i^(^ 3 cornele Cyl UNIVERSITY Cornell University Library G463 .C67 1858 Thirty-six voyages to various parts of t olin 3 1924 029 837 311 The original of tliis book is in tlie Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924029837311 ^;'...<^' '' c" ''i ^ TOTAGE m THE SCHOONEE THOMAS. 51 plug to be found. The water was rushing in with great vio- lence ; my friend T. thrust his thTimb into the hole, while I snatched off my neck-handkerchief and stopped it. This de- tained us a minute or two, but we soon pulled up to the man, when my friend T. had just time to save him by the hair of his head ; he was fast sinking, and would in another moment have been drowned. We soon pulled him into the boat, and took him on board. He was a stout young farmer, about nine- teen yeai'S old, from some small interior town in Connecticut, and this was his first voyage from home. He soon recovered, and when asked what were his feelings at the time he was sink- ing, said he thought he was dying, and that all the sins ho had ever committed rushed into his mind ; and the thought of hav- ing left home without the consent of his mother, was to him perfect torture. He was a humble man, and seemed to have no idea that the boat would be got out for him, and during the whole voyage appeared to be very grateful to all on board for so kindly saving him from a watery grave. I had twice before this accident assisted in rescuing men from drowning, and asked them the sam^e question respecting their thoughts, when thus struggling for life. Their answers have been uniformly the same in substance ; namely, that in a single moment all their evil deeds rushed like lightning into their minds, and it appear- ed as if the transactions of a whole life were condensed in a moment of time. "We made but slow progress on our passage, and had fre- quent calms and very light breezes, so that we were obliged to put the cattle on a short allowance of water. "We lost ten of our horses dm-ing the voyage, and when we arrived at Berbice the remaining fourteen were reduced almost to skeletons, and could scarcely stand. We lauded the poor animals, and the captain disposed of them for what he could get, which I believe was very little. "We were fifty-five days making the passage, which was long and tedious, and when we arrived, were all nearly worn out with labor at the pumps and other severe duties. The captain retailed the cargo to the planters residing on the banks of the Berbice river, and frequently sold articles to be delivered at their plantations, some ten or fifteen miles 52 VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEE THOMAS. from tlie riTer's mouth. The articles sold to the planters were delivered to them in our own boat, so that we frequently had to row up the river a distance of from ten to fifteen miles, un- protected against the hot rays of the sun by day, and the un- healthy dews of evening. What would the seamen of the present day say, if they had to perform such severe duty? Yet this is only a small specimen of what I endured for many years, when trading to the West India Islands. We disposed of our cargo in detail, and received coffee in payment, all of which we put into tight puncheons to keep it dry. After we had landed all our cargo, we hauled the schooner on shore with the intention, if possible, of stopping the leaks; When we came to examine the ends of the planks under the counter we found the wood so rotten, that it was almost impossible to hold oakum ; we however, calked all the bad places the best way we could, took on board our coffee and got ready for sea. The coast near the river Berbice, and for many miles along its banks, is ex- tremely low and flat, not unlike the land about the mouth of the Mississippi. At this period Berbice was a colony of Eng- land ; coffee was its staple production along, the banks of the river, though I believe there were also a few sugar estates. The general appearance of the country is flat, and where the land is not cleared up for plantations, has a wild, savage aspect. The forest trees are large, the under-growth is full and luxuriant, and abounds with a great variety of wild animals and small game for sportsmen. When we were there it was healthy, but I should judge it must be sickly at certain seasons of the year, like other places in low latitudes, where the land is rich, vege- tation rank and luxuriant, and the weather naturally hot and sultry. The little settlement at the mouth of the Berbice river, lies in latitude 6° 23' N., longitude 57° 11' W. of London. We left this port on the first of March, bound for the leeward West India Islands, in pursuit of a freight for the United States. We ran down to the Island of Tobago, and sent the boat on shore for information. We found no freight here, and soon made sail for Nevis and St. Kitt's, where we had no better suc- cess. On our departure from Tobago we ran under the lee of VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEE THOMAS. 63 the Island of Grenada, and passed near a great number of small islands, called the Granadillos. Some were of considerable size, while others appeared not much larger than the hull of a seventy-four gun ship. They are high and very picturesque. Near them we sailed over what is called the Grenadilla Bank, which is of considerable extent. It being in the morning, with very little wind, we had a delightful sail, and although the depth of the water is from ten to twenty fathoms, it is so pure and transparent that every object on the bottom is clearly seen. Coral reefs, rocks and white sand-banks, besides a great variety of fish sporting in undisturbed felicity, render it extremely in- teresting for several miles. Having filled up our water, procui-ed sea stores and a quan- tity of fruit at St. Kitt's, we again sailed for the United States. We ran down among the Leeward Islands, passed through Sail Eock Passage, and returned home to Milford on the 10th of April, 1803, thus completing this disagreeable voyage in just four months. If our captain had not been an excellent seaman and a very persevering, resolute man, we never could have successfully accomplished this perilous voyage in such a rotten, old craft. She leaked like a sieve in every part, and the only way we had to keep our coflfee dry, was to put it into tight ptmcheons. CHAPTER V. VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER THERESA, WITH CAPTAIN ADAM POND, FROM MILFORD, CONNECTICUT, TO TEECEIKA, AND FROM THENCE TO NEW YORK, IN THE YEAR 1804. I HAD recently returned from a voyage to Teneriffe, Madeira, and Terceira, in the schooner Kover. From the last-named place we brought a cargo of oranges and lemons to New York, and from the information which I communicated to the owner of the Theresa, he decided to dispatch her forthwith for a cargo of fruit for the New York market. The Theresa was a new schooner of 80 tons burden, a fast sailer, and in every respect a fine little vessel ; she was commanded by a son of the owner, a young man about twenty-two years of age : the crew comprised the captain, myself mate, four seamen, and a cook. To enable the captain to purchase a cargo of oranges and lemons, the owners supplied him with a small cargo of pine boards, scant- ling, whale oil, nankeens, beeswax, and sundry other articles, the whole invoice of which amounted to eight hundred doUare. After getting ready for sea, we sailed from Milford on the lOth of February. We passed through Long Island Sound and took our departure from Montauk Point with a strong gale from the westward, with clear, cold weather, and as usual at this season of the year, we had a continuation of IST. W. and W. !N". W. winds during the whole passage. On the 25th of the same month, we came to anchor in Angra Bay, at the island of Ter- ceira, fifteen days after leaving Milford. Our captain soon disposed of our little cargo at good prices, and in five days after our arrival we were ready to receive our fruit ; but as it was necessary to pick it from the trees some TOTAGE m THE SCHOOKEE THEEE8A. 55 miles in the country, it occupied some eight or ten days to bring it to town and pack it in boxes before putting it on board. The whole consisted of twelve hundred boxes of oranges and lemons, and cost one dollar each. After paying for our cargo of fruit, together with the expenses of shipping it, port charges, etc., we had a considerable sum to receive in silver, and as there was no other current money but pistareens, we received the balance due us in this old-fashioned silver coin. Before leaving, I will make some general remarks on this island, and also on the whole group, which are called the Azores or Western Islands. They are nine in number, and named as follows: Terceira, St. Michael, Fayal, St. Mary's, Pico, St. George, Graciosa, Corvo, and Flores ; they all belong to Portugal, and are about 800 miles distant from that country. The southernmost of the group, St. Mary's, lies in lat. 36° 59', and the northernmost, Corvo, in lat. 39° 44' N". ; all the others are between these extremes, and their mean longitude is about 28° 0' "W". The climate of these islands is generally mild and healthy, though subject to severe gales in the winter season ; they are also at times visited by destructive earthquakes ; but with all these drawbacks would become vastly more important to the world if blessed with good harbors ; there is not a safe one in the whole Archipelago. Fayal has a tolera- ble port, and the harbor on this island I will attempt to describe after I have concluded my remarks. St. Michael's is the largest, and Pico the most elevated ; the peak of this island is seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, and may be seen on a clear day some sixty or seventy miles off, rising like a sugar-loaf above the surface of the water. The principal exports of these islands are wine and fruit, the greatest part of which is consumed in England, though a portion of the wine is shipped to Madeira* and to Brazil. The entire population of these islands is said to be about two hundred and fifty thousand, and as they have but little intercourse with other nations, are of course extremely ignorant, very superstitious, intolerant, and bigoted to the Roman Catholic religion; they conse- * The wine shipped from these islands to Madeira, is there so mixed and refined as to give it a new character, and from thence is exported as Madeira wine. 56 VOTAGB IN THE SCHOONEE THEKESA. quently remain from age to age with but little progress or im- provement of any kind. Terceira is the capital or seat of gov- ernment for these islands ; here the Governor-General resides, and to him they all appeal for ultimate justice. It is about thirty miles long, twenty broad, and lies in lat. 38° 39' K, longitude 27° 13' W. of London. The port of Angra is rather a pleasant little bay, pretty well sheltered from west and northwest winds, but when it blows from the north- east and east, or round to the southeast, it soon raises a high sea, and renders it a rough and dangerous port. The town of Angra is situated on a hill rising gradually from the sea, and contains about 12,000 inhabitants. The streets are broad and regular, the houses generally three stories high and constructed of stone, and though well built, have rather a gloomy aspect. There are many churches and convents ; some of the former are large, and rather handsome. From the convents we purchased artificial flowers, preserved fruits, and other little curiosities, and found their inmates polite and friendly. Fresh provisions, wild game, goats, poultry, eggs and fruit are abundant and cheap, particularly oranges and lemons. While here I observed a primitive custom, which struck me as well worthy of imitation by villages and small towns in our own country. It is a general custom for the peasants to drive into town a large herd of milch goats, stop at every house, and sup- ply each family with whatever quantity of milk they may re- quire. In this way the inhabitants get it fresh and pure. This island, in many respects, is a convenient stopping-place to procure supplies of water, fresh provisions, fruit, etc., etc. I regret that my stay here was too short for me to get acquainted with the moral and social condition of the people, bnt from what I saw, I should think them simple-hearted and kind, though very ignorant and superstitious. They have so little intercourse with visitors or strangers from abroad, that they cannot be ex- pected to know much of what is going on in the world ; still, from all I could learn, they are extremely attached to their own island, and rarely emigrate to foreign lands. On our arrival, we found lying here a brig belonging to, and bound for New York. She was from Liverpool, ballasted with coal, had been VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEE THERESA. 67 as far west as the Banks of Newfoundland, and having lost her sails and several spars, bore away for this port leaking badly. On her arrival, the captain found it impossible to procure sails, spars, rigging, and other necessary supplies at this place. She was consequently condemned and sold at public auction. The captain, James Kennedy, his mate and crew, together with two of his cabin passengers, went with us to T^ew York. After get- ting all necessary stores on board, we sailed from Terceira on the 10th of April. "We had a rough and unpleasant passage of twenty-three days ; it was rendered disagreeable from the fact of having so many peTsons crowded together in so small a cabin. We, however, completed the whole voyage out and home in eighty-two days, and made a good one, considering the size of the schooner and the amount of capital employed. CHAPTER VI. VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER BETSEY AND POLLY, WITH CAPTAIN CALEB A. TOWNSEND, FROM NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICUT, TO BARBADOES, ST. LUCIE AND ST. MARTIN'S, AND BACK TO NEW HAVEN, IN 1804. It was in the month of June that I joined the schooner Betsey and Polly, under the command of Captain Caleb A. Townsend. She was then lying at New Haven, Connecticut, nearly loaded, for the West Indies. The vessel was about 150 tons burden, and owned by Messrs. Gillet & Townsend, merchants, at this place. Our crew was nine in number, viz., the captain, chief mate, second mate, cook and five seamen. Mr. Edward Brown, of Milford, was chief, and myself second mate. Our cargo under deck was composed of corn-meal, flour, beef, pork, butter, cheese, hams, etc., etc. On deck we had forty-four oxen, besides many sheep, pigs and a great variety of poultry, with the usual quantity of hay, corn, oats, etc., etc. Thus loaded and lumbered up, on deck and below, we sailed from New Haven on the 20th of June, bound for Barbadoes and a market. That night we got down near Fisher's Island. The passage near this island leading out to sea, is called The Eace, probably because the tides in this vicinity are so extremely rapid. At midnight it became very dark, and the wind light ; and, for fear of being driven on shore, we let go our bower anchor, which brought up the schooner in ten fathoms of water, in mid channel, and at the full strength of the ebb tide. When the weather cleared up a little, we found ourselves in a good position, with a fair wind, and a favorable tide ; but how to weigh the anchor was the question ; for in bringing up, one of the windlass bits was carried away, and to heave it up VOYAGE IN THE 6CH00NEE BETSEY JLSD POLLY. 69 with our broken windlass was impossible. We were therefore compelled to cut the cable, and make sail with the loss of our best bower, and about twenty fathoms of rope cable. After this incident, nothing worth noticing occurred for three weeks. We generally had light, bafiling winds and fine weather, so that we did not pass the Island of Bermuda until we had been twenty- two days at sea. One fine morning, when in the latitude of Bermuda, and about twenty leagues to the eastward of it, we fell in with an English homeward-bound fleet from Barbadoes, but last from the Island of St. Thomas. This fleet consisted of about one hun- dred and fifty sail of merchantmen, under convoy of the Blen- heim 74, a frigate, and two or three sloops-of-war. The flag- ship brought us to, and purchased from our captain twenty-two head of cattle, at $75 each, and nearly all our small stock of hogs, sheep, geese, turkeys, fowls, etc., etc. In these stock- vessels, the mates and seamen were allowed (freight free) to take for their private adventure from one to three coops of ducks and fowls, with the privilege of several barrels under deck. After our captain had agreed with the purser of the Blenheim upon the price of the cattle and all the other articles, with a portion of hay, grain, etc., etc., to save time, or rather not to lose theirs, the Blenheim took our schooner in tow, for the purpose of trans- porting the articles purchased from the schooner to the flag-ship. They took a large rope hawser from the stern of the Blenheim, and made it fast to our foremast. When this was done, they filled away, and stood on their course to the N. E., under easy sail, taking our little bark along with them. The contrast in the size of the 74 and the " Betsey and Polly," was as striking as would be a jolly-boat towed by a large merchant ship. The oxen were transported from our schooner to the Blenheim with gi-eat rapidity ; a strap was fastened round the horns of the ani- mal, which was then thrown overboard, and, with a line attached, hauled alongside, and hoisted on board by the head with the capstan, with the cheering music of the shrill fife, to keep time, and give life and animation to the novelty of the scene. In fine, the seamen and marines seemed to make a frolic of getting a supply of fresh provisions, where they so little expected to find 60 VOYAGE m THE SCHOONER BETSET ANB POLLY. it. In the course of five or six hours, we sold and delivered a large portion of our cargo. For the cattle and other large arti- cles, our captain received his pay in British government bills, while the officers, passengers and seamen paid for all they pur- chased in gold and silver. They paid liberal prices for all they bought, and treated us politely ; and, under all the circumstances of the case, our captain did not much complain against being taken some thirty or forty miles out of our course. The poor merchant ships, however, did not fare quite so well as the men-of-war. The admiral gave a general order that the boats of the mer- chant ships should not be permitted to go on board of our schooner until the men-of-war were supplied. I recollect one poor merchant captain pulled up under our lee, and came on board for some fowls. He said he had several sick passengers, ladies and gentlemen, and must have some poultry at all hazards. They hailed him from the flag-ship, and threatened to punish him if he did not leave the schooner, and said they would cer- tainly fire upon him. He told our captain, in an under tone, that they might fire and be d — d, if they chose, — supplies for his sick passengers he would have, if they shot him dead on the spot. In this dilemmaj our mate assisted him to smuggle a dozen fowls into his boat, when he shoved off. At first it was amusing to see quite a number of boats sent from the merchant ships attempt to come on board ; but after a few muskets were discharged with balls whistling about their ears, they were glad to return to their respective ships, and accommodate themselves to circumstances. After all the men-of-war were supplied, a fresh breeze sprung up, and we were cast off from the Blenheim. It was then too late for the merchant ships to purchase any thing. As it happened, we found a better market on the broad ocean than we eventually met with, on our arrival at our des- tined port. We soon got clear of the fleet, and proceeded on our way, rejoicing at our good fortune. I was told the admiral of the fleet had lately married the daughter of some rich planter, in one of the West India Islands, and had his wife with him, on the way to England ; so that they were probably spending their VOYAGE IN THE BOHOONEE BET8ET AND POLLY. 61 honey-moon at sea. Captain Townsend was a gentleman, in all his tastes and habits of life, very well educated, a good naviga- tor and an excellent lunarian. He had recently made a sealing voyage to Massafuero, in the Pacific, with Captain Daniel T. -Green, in the ship Neptune, of New Haven, and in that ship had circumnavigated the globe. He wrote a good hand, and kept a neat joui-nal. While on board of the Blenheim, the ad- miral inquired of him, whether he knew what longitude they were in ? Captain T. sent for his journal, pointed out the exact position of the fleet, and explained every thing so clearly to the satisfaction of the admiral and his officers, that they appeared astonished to find in the captain of a little horse-jockey schooner, a man so aufwit on all subjects relating to the navigation of distant seas. At this period it was rare to meet with a scientific, efficient navigator, and not one ship in a hundred was furnished with a chronometer. After separating from the English fleet, nothing happened worth recording. We generally had good weather, but very light, baffling winds, and did not arrive at Barbadoes until the 4:th of August, after a long and tedious passage of 44 days. The captain landed in our own boat to try the market, while the schooner stood off" and on opposite the harbor. In a few hours Captain T. returned on board, finding he could dispose of nothing to any advantage. We then made sail for the neigh- boring Island of St. Lucie. At this place we disposed of the rest of our cargo, except the corn-meal, and a few other small articles. St. Lucie is a high, mountainous island, thirty miles long and twelve broad. At this period it belonged to England, and contained about 16,000 inhabitants of mixed races ; white, black, and all the intermediate shades. It possesses an excellent har- bor, decidedly the best in the West Indies. But unfortunately it is often very sickly. Its principal productions are sugar, coffee, rum and molasses. We lay in this port about twenty days, and then sailed for the Island of St. Martin's. Here we sold the residue of our cargo, and took on board sugar, rum and mo- lasses in payment, and after lying here three weeks, again sailed 62 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE BETSEY AND POJLLY. for home, and had a pleasant passage of twenty-two days to New Haven. In a few days after our arrival I was discharged. I will here take occasion to say that Captain Townsend is one of the most gentlemanly men I ever sailed with. He is kind and humane, and, in a word, a most excellent, worthy man. CHAPTER Vn. VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER INDUSTRY, TO TENERIFFE, IN THE YEARS 1805 AND 1806. On the 1st of November, 1805, I shipped with Oapt. James Kennedy, on board the schooner " Industry^'' as chief mate, to perform a voyage to the Island of Teneriffe. On the 18th of the same month, we commenced loading with Indian corn, flour, staves, etc. The " Inckistry " was a good vessel, nearly new, bm'den 150 tons; and owned by Messrs. Le Eoy, Bayard & McEvers. "We finished loading in about a week, and sailed from ISTew York on the 24:th, bound for Santa Cruz, Teneriffe. ^Nothing occurred worth noticing until we made the Island of Madeira, on the 2Tth of December, 31 days after leaving port. At noon this day we took our departure from this island. It then bore !N". !N". "W., distant 12 leagues, and with a strong gale at N. "W". we ran down for Teneriffe. There are two small islands called the Salvages, which lie almost directly in the track. They are quite low, and in a dark night can be seen but a very short distance. Om- captain judged we should be down in the neighborhood of them about 2 o'clock a. m. It being my first watch, namely, from 8 o'clock till 12, the captain gave me charge of the deck, telling me to call him at midnight, saying he would shorten sail at 2 o'clock, and if the wind continued strong it would be better to lie by until day- light. He then went below, and in a few minutes was sound asleep. I accordingly carried as much sail as the schooner would bear until midnight, when I called Oapt. K., told him it was 64 VOYAGE m THE SOHOONEE INDUSTET. blowing very strong, and that it was necessary to shorten sail, as we were no doubt drawing near the Salvages. He ap- peared to rouse up a little, and then sank into a sound sleep. I returned to the deck and waited some minutes, when I again called, and endeavored by repeated shakings and loud calls to arouse him ; but all to no purpose. I could not awaken him, and was therefore obliged to go on deck and shorten sail. At 2 A. M., I hove the schooner to, determined to lie by till daylight. I then went below, giving the watch on deck orders to call me at the first dawn of day. This order was obeyed, and when I came on deck the Salvages were about a mile distant on our lee beam, with a terrible surf breaking and dashing the white foam high in the air with a terrific roar. We immediately made sail and passed quite near the largest of these desolate and barren- looking islands, which are, I should judge, about a mile asunder, with a bad reef extending from the larger to the smaller. I was now enabled to get the captain on deck and show him the danger we had escaped. Capt. Kennedy was a kind, amiable man, and always Jtreated me with respect and kindness — ^but trath compels me to add, that he was the most profound sleeper I ever knew, and I verily believe, that if a two-and-forty pounder had been fired off on deck, directly over his head, it would not have awaked him or disturbed his slumbers. The next day we made the Island of Teneriffe, and got safe to anchor in the port of Santa Cruz on the 29 th of Decem- ber, after a boisterous passage of 33 days. We were this day visited by the health-boat, and, though all well, ordered to per- form quarantine for four days, after which time we got pratique and commenced discharging our cargo, which was taken on shore in small lighters. We found lying at anchor in this port but few vessels, say about half a dozen ; three American brigs and schooners, a few small craft belonging to the island, and a large Scotch brig, nearly new, of about 250 tons burden. This brig was from Newfoundland, laden with codfish, bound to London, had been taken in the chops of the English Channel by a French fleet of men-of-war on their passage to the West Indies a few days out from Rochefort, and was sent into this port and condemned. VOYAGE Df THE SCHOONEE INDITSTET. 65 She lay moored, with 4 bower anchors, topmast and yards on deck, prepared to brave the winter gales, which often blow here with great violence. About the last of December, a French brig-of-war touched here for a few days, and brought the news of a great naval battle having been fought on the 2l8t of October off Cadiz and Trafalgar, between the combined fleets of France and Spain, and an English fleet under the command of Admiral Lord Nel- son, and that he was killed in the action. This was about all the news we heard on this subject for many months. On referring to Southey's Life of Lord Nelson and other documents, I find that a British fleet of four line-of-battle ships and three frigates arrived off this port on the 22d of July, 1797, and that at midnight of the 24:th all the boats of the squadron were manned and headed in person by Admiral Nelson. They landed on the quay and attempted to storm the town and batteries, but were repulsed with great slaughter. Lord Nelson was shot in the arm and soon placed hors de combat. His life was saved by being carried on board of his boat by a young officer, his son-in-law, Josiah Nesbit. I was told by the in- habitants of Santa Cruz that the day after the English had re- tired to their ships, the Governor of the Island, actuated by noble sentiments of humanity, sent on board the fleet a large quantity of fresh provisions, wine, and other nourishments for the sick and wounded, with a polite letter to the commander-in- chief. We had discharged about half our cargo when, about noon, on the 8th of January, it commenced blowing a gale from the eastward directly on shore. At 3 o'clock p. m. I received a note from Captain Kennedy, requesting me to clear the decks and get ready as soon as possible to go to sea, stating that he would be on board in the course of an hour or two. I accordingly cleared the decks, reefed the sails and got buoys ready. At 6 o'clock the captain came on board, when we slipped our cables, got under way, and had just time to clear the land before dark. In the early part of this day a ship arrived off the port. Her captain went on shore to try the market, requesting the mate to stand off and on until further orders. We also stood 5 66 VOYAGE m THE SCHOONER INDU8TET. off the land. Just before dark we saw the ship in the offing, ; and supposed we were several miles asunder. At 8 p. M. it became very dark, and blew a strong gale from the S. E. and E. S. E. directly on shore, attended with rain and much thunder and lightning, but as we had got every thing snug, and judged ourselves about five miles from the land, we felt qtiite safe. Just then the steward called the captain and myself to supper. Captain K. told me I had better go be- low, that he would keep a look-out, and take a little tea and, biscuit on deck. I had just entered the cabin when I felt a terrible shock. I ran to the companion-way, when I saw a ship athwart our bows. At that moment our foremast went by the board, earring with it our main-topmast. In an instant the two vessels separated, and we were left a perfect wreck. The ship showed a light for a few moments and then disappeared, leaving us to our fate. When we came to examine our situation, we found our bowsprit gone close to the night-heads. The foremast in its fall had crushed and broken the cook- house, lee gunwale, and waist-boards. The main-topmast in its fall tore the mainsail to pieces, and the mainmast, thus left without support, was surging and springing in such a manner that we feared every moment it would go also. The gale in- creased and blew with great violence directly on shore. To retard the schooner's drift, we kept the wreck of the foremast, bowsprit, sails, spars, etc., fast by the bowsprit shrouds, and other ropes, so that we drifted to leeward but about two miles the hour. To secure the mainmast was now the first object. I therefore took with me one of the best of the crew and carried the end of a rope cable with us up to the mainmast head, and clenched it round the mast while it was badly springing. We then took the cable to the windlass, hove taught, and effectually secured the mast. It was now 10 o'clock at night, and we could do no more for the present. I then gave the charge of the deck to one of our best men, with orders to keep a good look-out and call me if there should be any change of wind or weather. We were then drifting directly on shore where the cliffs were rocky, abrupt, almost perpendicular, and perhaps 1000 feet high. At each flash of lightning we could see the siu-f break, while we VOYAGE IN THE 80H00NEE INDtrSTET. 67 heard the awful roar of the sea dashing and breaking against the rocks and caverns of this iron-bound island. When I went below, I found the captain in the act of going to bed ; and as near as I can recollect, the following dialogue took place; "Well, Captain K., what shall we do next? we have now about six hours to pass before daylight, and, according to my calculation, only aboiit three hours more drift ; still, before that time there may, perhaps, be some favorable change." He answered, " Mr. C, we have done all we can and can do nothing more ; I am resigned to my fate and think nothing can save us." I replied, " Perhaps you are right, sir ; still, I am re- solved to struggle to the last. I am too young to die ; I am only twenty-one years of age, and have a widowed mother, three brothers and a sister, looking to me for support and sympathy. No, sir ; I will struggle and persevere to the last." " Ah ! " said he, " what can you do ? Our boat will not live five min- utes in the surf, and you have no other resource." " I will take the boat," said I, " and when she fills, I will cling to a spar, I will not die until my streiigth is exhausted, and I can breathe no longer." Here the conversation ended, when the captain covered his head with a blanket. 1 then wrote the substance of our misfortune in the log-book, and also a letter to my mother, rolled them up in a piece of tarred canvas, and, assisted by the carpenter, put the package in a tight keg ; thinking that this might be thrown on shore, and our friends perhaps know of our end. I then went on deck to take another look at our perilous situation. The night was excessively dark, the wind blowing a terrible gale directly on shore, with a high-rolling sea ; at short intervals, we had awful peals of thunder, and sharp, vivid light- ning. Every bright flash revealed to us more clearly our im- pending danger, and as we were momentarily drifting nearer to the lofty cliffs, the surf seemed to break and roar with increased fury. At this critical moment, when aU human aid was impotent and unavailing, a kind Providence came to our relief, and snatched us from a watery grave ; for at midnight, one hour after this trying scene, the gale gradually died away until it be- 68 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE DTDITSTBT. came quite calm. At 2 in the morning a light breeze sprung up from off the land, and we were saved. With the little land breeze, and a favorable current setting along-shore to the south- ward, the schooner was gently swept off and along the south end of the island. At early dawn, viz. at 3 o'clock, I called all hands, and now our captain acted like a man. Having been bred a carpenter in early life, he could use tools adroitly, and we all set to work in good earnest. "We had a new mainsail and jib below, which we instantly bent, rigged out a squaresail boom for a bowsprit, and in an hour our vessel was completely rigged into a sloop, and we were slowly steering off shore. At broad daylight we were about half a mile off the land. Santa Cruz was entirely out of sight, and not a ship or boat to be seen. "We gradually drifted with the wind and current to the southward of the island. The winds continued light, and the weather fine, for several days. In the mean time we rigged a small jury-mast with a spare topmast, set as many jibs as we could muster, and daily beat against the wind and current; until at the end of eighteen days we again reached Santa Cruz, and regained our former anchorage. At the sight of our vessel, the whole town was astonished, as we had been given up for lost, and both vessel and cargo had been abandoned to the underwriters in New York. The ship that ran us down, proved to be the " Catharine,^^ Captain George Dowdall, of New York. Their report was, that they saw nothing of the schooner after the two vessels separated, and concluded, of course, that we immediately sank, and that every soul had perished. I understood that the Oathanm received considerable injury about the bows, and lost a bower anchor and sixty or seventy fathoms of cable. There was an American brig here belonging to Bath (then in the province of Maine), to sail the next day, so that we were enabled to write to oui- friends that we were still among the living. When our captain went on shore at Santa Cruz, he was treated with great kindness and hospitality by all the principal merchants of the town, and we were all looked upon as so many men risen from the dead. VOYAGE m THE SCHOOKEE rNDUSTEY. 69 We soon discharged the remainder of our cargo, had several surveys on the vessel, and as no suitable spars could be found there to make a new foremast and bowsprit, the schooner was condemned and sold at public auction, for the benefit of the un- derwriters. Capt. Kennedy then purchased the Scotch prize brig, to which myself and all the crew of the Indust/ry were transferred. I do not recollect the Scotch name of this vessel, but Capt. K. called her the " Jome Kennedy^'' after one of his daughters. "We took on board a quantity of stone ballast, sea stores, &c., &c., and on the 6th of March sailed for New York. "We had contrary winds and calms, and on the 26th of April, after a long and tedious passage of 49 days, arrived off Sandy Hook. "While standing in near the Hook, I saw a gun fired from the British ship-of-war " Lecmder" at a small sloop, standing in shore. I saw the sloop heave to, but did not know at that time that the shot struck her. "When we got to New York, I heard that a man by the name of John Pierce had been killed. The next morning I went on board the sloop, lying at the wharf. The shot had struck the taffrail, shivered it to pieces, and one of the splinters killed Pierce, while standing at the helm. The death of this man, occurring at the entrance of the port, and in our own waters, while we were at peace with England, caused a great excitement against the perpetrators of this outrage. The whole country felt that it was an insult to the nation, and called aloud for redress. A large meeting of citizens was held in the Park, before the City Hall, where suitable resolutions and remonstrances were made and forwarded to the General Grovernment in Washing- ton. These violent acts occurring from time to time, engendered much bad blood and resentment against the English, and it was easy to see that such conduct on the part of Great Britain would eventually lead to bloodshed and open war between the two nations. A day or two after our arrival, the crew of our vessel were discharged and paid off, Capt. Kennedy retaining his apprentice boy and myself. After getting the brig calked and painted she was laid up, until Capt. K. could hear from Scotland, where he 70 VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEE INBirSTET. had -written to lier former owaers, offering to sell her to them at a fair valuation, they having the privilege of obtaining a new register, &e. She was, of course, worth more to them than to others. Capt. Kennedy purchased this vessel without any pa- pers, and came home with a simple certificate from the Ameri- can Consul at Teneriffe, that he had purchased and paid for the brig at Santa Cruz. The brig being now in perfect order, I got leave of absence to visit my mother, in Connecticut, and as Capt. Kennedy had no further need of my services, we separated with mutual good wishes for our future prosperity. CHAPTER VIII. VOYAGE IN THE SHIP MARSHALL FEOM NEW YORK TO LEGHORN, AND FROM THBNCte TO NEW ORLEANS, WITH CAPT. WILLIAM HETH, IN THE YEARS 1806 AND 1807. At this period I had just returned from a voyage to Teneriffe ; and being anxious for active employment, shipped (on the 20th of June) as chief mate with Captain Heth, on board the Mar- shall, bound to Leghorn. The principal part of her cargo was Calcutta sugar in bags. The ship was about 280 tons burden, and owned by Messrs. Archibald Gracie and George M. "Wool- sey. "We sailed from ]^ew York on the first of July, and after a pleasant passage of 38 days, arrived at Gibraltar. Having remained here two days, and taken on board several casks of water, sea-stores, etc., we again made sail for our destined port. Nothing worth noticing occurred until we got near Cape de Gatt, where we were becalmed for two days. The weather was very warm, the sky bright and clear, the sea as smooth as glass, and literally covered with turtle. We got out our boats, and took a great number of them with little or no trouble. They generally weighed from thirty to sixty pounds, and appeared to be asleep on the surface of the water. While we lay here, we saw another ship and a brig, with their boats out also catching turtle. This was to me a novel sight : I had never before, nor have I ever since, seen so great a number of them together. During the remainder of the passage we had generally light winds and fine weather, ' until we arrived at Leghorn, on the 23d of August, 54 days from New York. We were visited by the health-boat, and ordered to remain in quarantine in the 72 VOYAGE IN THE SHIP MAESHAIL. Eoads, until all oiir cargo was discharged and stored at the Lazaretto. At this place we were consigned to the commercial house of Messrs. Grant, "Webb & Co. There were several large stone warehouses at the Lazaretto, around which was a high wall, separating it entirely from the city : here all vessels in quarantine were allowed to store their car- goes. "We soon commenced discharging, but when the cargo was about half out, a strong gale from the "W. S. "W. drove our ship on shore, taking both anchors along with her. Fortunately the bottom was soft, and she received no damage ; and when the remainder of the cargo was taken out, we hove her off without much difficulty. "We then got pratique, and went into the inner harbor. During the time we were in quarantine, all letters from us were taken with a pair of long tongs, and smoked with brimstone. It sometimes happened that a ship not in quarantine was forced, by some unavoidable circumstance, to touch another lying in quarantine ; and if it should so happen that any part of her tackle came in contact, for example, a jib or any small sail, it was immediately unbent and sent to the Lazaretto, there to remain for a certain number of days. After the foregoing recital, it must be acknowledged that here these laws are fully carried out, both as to the letter and spirit. The captain of the Marshall was a native of Richmond, Vir- ginia, well educated, polite and gentlemanly in his deportment. He was kind and generous to a fault, but extremely quick and passionate. He, however, treated me with great kindness, and allowed me every reasonable indulgence. "While lying here, he gave me leave of absence for three days to visit Pisa, which was in ancient times a great city, but now contains only about 20,000 inhabitants. It is situated on the banks of the river Arno, 13 miles from Leghorn, and lies IST. N. E. from that city. Pisa, though a dull town, still retains many marks of its former grandeur, namely, its fine marble bridges, magnificent cathedral, fine stone quays, and ancient palaces. The old lean- ing tower, 202 feet high, is also a great curiosity. From the top of this I had a fine view of the Arno, and the surrounding country. "While walking about this town, I met with many VOYAGE IN THE SHIP MARSHALL. 73 objects which reminded one of its extreme antiquity, and when I reflected on its bygone importance, and its present insignifi- cance, it produced feelings not unlike those which we experience while gazing on the mouldering ruins of a once magnificent cathedral. At Pisa, the living is good and cheap, but a stranger meets with many annoyances ; he is importimed at every step by beg- gars, and while at the hotels bands of musicians, both vocal and instrumental, never cease their singing and playing until paid to retire ; bating these and some other lesser evils, there are many things to admire. The climate is generally good and healthful, the fruit and wine delicious. The ancient and modern pictures and sculptures in the churches are well worth the attention of strangers. At the expiration of the allotted time, I returned to the ship well pleased with my visit. We now com- menced in good earnest taking in our cargo, which consisted of variegated marble slabs, wine, oil, olives, soap, almonds, etc., etc., and after lying in this port about two months, sailed on the 23d of October. "We had a pleasant passage down the Medi- terranean, passed Gibraltar on the 3d of November, and the next day were fairly out on the broad Atlantic. "We ran down to the southward and westward, and soon got into the regular trade-winds. When drawing near the Bahama Islands, we steered for the Hole-in-the-Wall, on the south end of Abaco, in the parallel of latitude 26° 10', as laid down in the navigation books in general use at that time, particularly the one by Hamilton Moore. We made the land about twenty miles to the northward of the Hole-in-the-Wall, and came very near getting aground by taking this erroneous latitude. We were consequently obliged to make several tacks to the southward, and were thus detained several hours. It is now ascertained that the true position of the Hole-in-the-Wall is latitude 25° 51' north, longitude Y7° 9' west. I will here remark, that the old navigation books are not at all to be depended upon, particularly those relating to the Bahama Islands and Banks. At that time there were no light- houses along the Florida shore, and the charts were miserable. Our voyage was very much prolonged in consequence of the 74 VOYAGE m THE SHIP MAESHALL. ship not being coppered. She was sheathed with pine boards, which were literally covered with barnacles and sea-grass. After a long and tedious passage of seventy-six days, we arrived off the mouth of the Mississippi on the 11th of January, 1807, where we had a severe gale from the IST. W. which lasted about a week, and prevented our getting into the river until the 18th. We entered by the N. E. pass (where the block-house now stands), which was then the deepest and best channel. The pilots at that time were aU hired by the month, and regulated by Messrs. Johnson & Bradish ; they were generally old sailors. Messrs. J. & B. likewise owned several small schooners, em- ployed as lighters. On our passage up the Mississippi we got the ship aground, and were obliged to discharge a large portion of the cargo on the bank of the river ; we also hired a schooner from Johnson & Bradish to take a part of it up to New Orleans. After getting the ship ailoat, we reloaded with our own boats. This unfor- tunate affair detained us eight days. We at length arrived at New Orleans on the 8th of February, twenty-one days after entering the river, and a hundred and four from Leghorn. At this time there was not a steamboat on the Mississippi, and vessels were frequently from ten to twenty, and large heavy ships even thirty days, getting up from the Balize to New Or- leans. It was, indeed, a tiresome, laborious business to ascend the river against the current, sailing when the wind was fair, and when ahead warping and tracking, and often gaining but a few miles a day. When the wind was ahead and the current running very strong, we often made fast a large hawser to a tree on the bank of the river, and heaved the ship ahead by the capstan or windlass ; and thus by main force, after many hours of hard labor, we found we had gained only a mile or two. On the 30th of April, 1803, the United States Government purchased Louisiana from France, and on the 30th of Novem- ber of the same year. General Wilkinson was sent with a suf- ficient number of D". S. troops to garrison and protect New Or- leans, which at that time contained only about 8,000 inhabitants, principally French and Spanish. At this time, March, I should judge, there were about 9,500 to 10,000 souls. VOYAGE IK THE SHIP MAEBHALL. 75 During my stay in this city, tlie following incident occurred : A soldier belonging to the United States army, under the com- mand of General Wilkinson, had deserted twice, had been taken, brought back, and after some slight punishment, pardoned. !N^ot long after this he deserted a third time ; he was again taken, brought back, tried by a court-martial, and condemned to be shot. On the day of the execution, the troops were all paraded on the public square, with a large band of music, mujffled drums, etc. In the centre of the troops were four men bearing a coffin on a bier. The culprit was taken from prison with his hands bound behind him, and ordered to walk behind the men who bore his coffin. Thus prepared, the whole squadron commenced marching with slow and solemn steps, the band played the " Dead March," and thousands of spectators followed on, as was supposed, to witness the execution. In this manner the whole cortege proceeded just outside of the town, to a lonely place, where a grave was prepared. Here the music ceased playing, the coffin was placed near the grave of the culprit, and twelve men were ordered out of the ranks, with their muskets loaded, ready for the execution. The deserter saw all the preparations, and was then blind- folded. All were waiting with breathless expectation to hear the fatal word given to fire, when an officer took from his pocket and read a written reprieve from Mr. Madison, the Pres- ident of the United States. I was near enough to witness the whole transaction : up to this moment the man bore his fate with great fortitude ; but when the word reprieve caught his ear, it completely overpowered him, and he could with difficulty stand without assistance. At this moment a sentiment of thrilling gladness seemed to 'pervade the whole assemblage, and with shouts of joy every- body appeared to return to town with light hearts. It was said the mother and sisters of the soldier obtained his pardon through Mrs. Madison. I understood, that by a military order the man was dismissed from the army ; had his head shaved, and was drummed out of town. The consignee of our ship was Mr. George M. Phillipsi 76 VOYAGE m THE SHIP MAESHALL. This gentleman sold a part of our cargo on the lev6e, and put the residue into his warehouse. This occupied some ten or fif- teen days. There being at this period no steamboats, all the mer- chandise that was sent into the interior was taten in long, nar- row keel-boats, propelled by oars, and furnished with long boat- hooks, to haul up by the trees and bushes along the banks of the river. By this mode of transportation, it necessarily occu- pied some months to make a voyage to St. Louis. At this period, 1807, Mexico was a colony of Spain, and no ship or vessel was allowed to trade there except by a special license from the Spanish Government. The colony manufac- tured little or nothing, and of course was entirely dependent on Europe and the United States for almost all their clothing and articles of luxury. To pay for these manufactured goods they had nothing but the precious metals, and a few articles of drugs and dye-stuffs, such as jalap, sarsaparilla, cochineal, etc., etc. Vera Cruz was the only port in the Gulf of Mexico where for- eign ships were allowed to enter, and here centred nearly all its commerce. This circumstance will account for the high prices of almost all kinds of European goods. Vast quantities of dollars were brought down from the city of Mexico, and all exported from this place. It had long been the policy of Spain to exclude her American colonies from any commerce or intercourse with other nations, and thus they were shut out from the rest of the world, and kept in ignorance of their own rights and privileges, in order to enrich the mother country at their expense. • At this time I had freq[uent conversations with intelligent Spaniards on this subject, and they all agreed, that if they could exclude strangers from South America, they would be able to retain their colonies for at least another century. They said, moreover, that if the people could be kept in ignorance, they would be far happier, enjoying their religion unmolested, and living in a simple state, void of ambition and a thousand arti- ficial wants. They furthermore added, your countrymen, the North Americans, are the most to be feared, for if the seeds of Eepublicanism are once sown among them, they will be lost to us forever. VOYAGE IN THE 6HIP MAESHALL. 77 Ai'ter our sMp was discliarged she was advertised for sale, and lay idle for some weeks. Captain Heth, who was always a kind friend of mine, was willing to discharge me, to promote my interest ; so, by mutual consent, I left his ship, and joined the schooner Centurion in March, 1807. CHAPTER IX. FIKST TOTAGE IN THE SCHOONER CENTURION, PROM NEW ORLEANS TO TERA CRUZ, AND BACK TO NEW ORLEANS, WITH CAPT. JOHN WALLER, IN THE YEAR 1807. There was lying in this port a fine, fast-sailing schoouer, called the Centurion, commanded by John "Waller, and in part or wholly owned by Archibald Gracie, Esq., of 'New York. The owners or agents of this schooner had obtained a license from the Government of Old Spain, with directions to the Viceroy of Mexico to admit a certain amount of goods, such as German linens, and other articles of merchandise, all of which were to correspond with the license. The business of this vessel was conducted by a German merchant residing here, by the name of Vincent Nolte, Esq. In this schooner I obtained a situation as chief mate ; she was soon loaded and ready for sea. On the 10th of March we sailed down the river, bound for Vera Cruz : in two days we got clear of the Balize, and seven days after came to anchor at our destined port. We soon landed the cargo according to the license. I had a small adventure, which I disposed of at an enormous profit ; common printed calico sold for one dollar per yard, mock Madras handkerchiefs at $12 per dozen, and most other kinds of European goods in like proportion ; in fine, they appeared to be in want of every thing, and had money in abun- dance to pay for all they bought. After landing the cargo, we took on board a quantity of stone ballast, and many thousand dollars in specie, the exact amount of which I do not recollect. We lay here about a fortnight, when we again sailed, and after a pleasant passage of 15 days, got safe back to ISTew Orleans on FIEST VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER OENTTJEION. 79 the 7tli of April, thus making the entire voyage in 38 days. This voyage proved so successful, that it induced the owners or agents at New Orleans to make another forthwith .in the same vessel ; and as every person on board participated in a greater or less degree in the success of the enterprise, the captain, mate, and all hands remained hy the good Cen- turion. CHAPTEE X. SECOND TOTAGE IN THE SCHOONER CBNTUEION, TO VEBA CRUZ AND BACK TO NEW ORLEANS, WITH CAPT. J. WALLER, IN THE YEAR 1807. We were soon loaded again, and growing bold by success, and believing the King of Spain had no right to deprive his Ameri- can subjects of a few European luxuries, all those concerned in the enterprise, agents, officers, and seamen, took goods not mani- fested ; and thus we sailed on a second voyage, on the 20th of May. On our passage down to Vera Cruz nothing worth re- cording occurred, except that we had more calms and adverse winds than on the last voyage, and did not arrive until the first of June, making our passage eleven days. We soon commenced unloading the cargo. After we had discharged one lighter load, the custom house officers came on board, and began to search for contraband goods ; unfortunately they found a large amount of merchandise not manifested. I suffered severely with the rest ; they seized the greater part of my private adventure, as well as whatever belonged to the agents and seamen. What the difficulty was I was not able to learn correctly, but think it proceeded from the consignees not paying the custom house officers a fair compensation on the last voyage ; at any rate there was a breach of good faith somewhere, and we all suffered in consequence of bad management on the part of those, whose business it was to have arranged every thing upon amicable terms. I have almost always found that if good faith is kept by those engaged in smuggling, the Spanish custom house officers will never betray you ; but, on the contrary, if they find more goods than you represent, and deceive them in the quantity, they are always on the watch to have their revenge. After SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE OENTUEION. 81 they had loaded a lighter with goods not specified in the license, they were all taken on shore and no one dared to own them. To allay the excitement and stop the public clamor, it was ne- cessary to account for these articles ; it was therefore judged best to throw the blame upon some individual, and I was per- suaded to assume the ownership of all the goods not manifested. Thus it was asserted that they all belonged to the mate, and that he had decamped and left every thing behind ; and to carry out this arrangement, that night I went quietly on board a Spanish sloop-of-war which was lying in port. In the morning it was reported that the mate had deserted, and the whole business was hushed up and settled. The few remaining goods that had not been found, were taken on shore by the boats of a Spanish man-of-war, and given up to our consignee. The captain of the ship-of-war was a great friend of his, and used to dine with him almost daily ; he gave orders to his officers to furnish me with a state-room while I remained on board his ship ; and also told his steward to provide me with every thing I wanted. At night, I occasionally made a visit to our schooner, and when she was ready for sea, went on board. We sailed from Vera Cruz on the 23d of June, and here the farce concluded, and my golden dreams were at an end. "We had no return cargo, except specie^ — the number of dollars I do not remem- ber: it was, however, very large; but, for fear of mistake, I will leave it indefinite. We had a short and pleasant passage of eight days to the JBalize, and got to IsTew Orleans on the 7th of July. About a week after our arrival, the schooner was sold, when the captain, mate, and all hands were discharged; and here ended my second voyage in the schooner Centurion. About a week after being discharged from the Centurion, Captain Waller got the command of a little pilot-boat schooner. called the Hetty, and as I was desirous to return to New-Tork, I shipped with him as mate. We got ready for sea, and left New Orleans on the 1st of August, bound to New- York. This was a poor little craft, and leaked badly all the passage. Had it not been a fine season of the year, she would probably never have reached her destined port. We, however, got along 6 82 SECOND TOTAGE IN THE SCHOONEK CENTUEION. pretty well, and arrived safe at the quarantine ground, Staten Island, on the 22d of August. We performed four days' quar- antine, and were then allowed to proceed to the city, where we were all discharged. After getting to ISTew-Tork, we found the city, and in short the whole country, in a state of great agitation, in conse- quence of the dastardly attack of the British ship-of-war Leop- ard on the United States frigate Chesapeake, Commodore James Barron. This cowardly transaction occurred on the 22d of June, just two months previous to our arrival ; stiU the agitation and intense excitement had not much subsided. This unnatural and barbarous attack took place in a time of profound peace, when the Chesapeake was but a few hours out of port, bound to the Mediterranean — ^more in the position of a store-ship than a man-of-war. Her decks were lumbered up, and she not at all in a situation to use her guns, and in all human probability never dreaming it possible that she would be molested ; in short, it was more like the treachery of an Algerine cruiser than the transaction of a Christian nation. If the captain of the Leopard had possessed the honor- able feelings of a gentleman, he would have said to Captain Barron, I have positive orders from my admiral to take three English seamen out of your ship. If you are not willing to give them up, I must take them by force ; and if your ship is not in fighting trim, I will wait two hours to give you suffi- cient time to prepare for action. I say, had he taken this honorable course, the United States and the world at large would have sustained him, whatever might have been the result, and every honest and true-hearted American would have been satisfied. Such a course of conduct would not have engendered the bitter feelings of resentment which at this period pervaded the whole nation. Every patriot said and felt, justice may slumber for a while, but the day of reckoning must and will come, when, in the fair field of open-handed combat, the world will see that the Americans can and will avenge the many wrongs they have BO often received from England. I do not say that Commodore Barron was entirely free from censure, in not having his ship SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE CENTTTEION. O ready for action ; but I do assert, from a personal acquaintanc with, him, and a knowledge of his character for many years, th£ he was a brave man, and well worthy the confidence of hi country. This affair, though at the time so mortifying to every Amej ican bosom, has been of immense advantage to the Unite States Navy. It has taught all who belong to it to be eve ready, at the first tap of the drum, to rush to quarters, then loo up at the emblem of liberty, with its stars and sti-ipes graceful! waving over their heads, and with one heart and one voice to ei claim, — Strike, for God and our country ! After an absence of thirteen months, I was extremely am ious to visit my mother, and other near relatives in Connecticu I had long anticipated the pleasure of meeting those so dear t my heart, and it was a sad disappointment not to be able to a( complish this long-cherished desire ; but, alas ! I was deprive of all my fond hopes, from the peculiar circumstances of th case. On my arrival I found my former owner, Ai'chibald Graci( Esq., had built a beautiful pilot-boat schooner for the Vera Oru trade, and called her the Hamilton. He requested me to g chief mate of this fine vessel, and I forthwith repaired on boarc CHAPTER XI. FIBST VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE HAMILTON FROM NEW YORK, TO VERA CRUZ, AND BACK TO NEW YORK, WITH CAPTAIN J. WALLER, IN 1807. The Hamilton was about one hundred tons biirden, quite new, and surpassed in speed and beauty any sailing vessel of this de- scription in the United States. 'No pains or expense had been spared to make her perfect in every respect. She was built un- der the inspection of Mr. Thomas Williams, one of the most ex- perienced New York pilots of his day ; and, to insure safety in flight, Mr. "W. was hired to go a voyage to Yera Cruz in this schooner, as pilot and assistant sailing-master. I found this fine vessel nearly loaded with a rich cargo of German and English goods. John "Waller was appointed to the command ; myself, chief mate ; Robert Adamson, second mate ; Captain James Brown, supercargo ; with a crew of fifteen men. Though we had a numerous crew, they were not taken to fight — ^for we had no guns — but to make and take in sail with all possible dispatch, and to run, when it became necessary. For this purpose, we were supplied with ten large oars or sweeps, to use in light winds and calm weather ; with orders from the owner to speak nothing, and run away from every sail we saw on the ocean. Being thus completely fitted, we sailed from Wew York on the 31st of August, and had a pleasant passage off the coast ; but owing to some mistake on the part of the captain, in lieu of making Turk's Island, we fell to leeward, and on the 12th of September, at 10 in the morning, made the island of Grand Caycos, bearing south fifteen miles distant. In consequence of falling in so far to the leeward, we were obliged to make seve- PIEST VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE HAMILTON. 85 ral tacks to windward, and did not get fairly into Turk's Island passage until 4 o'clock p. m. We, however, passed through it without any difficulty. The first part of the next day the wind was light, and we made but' little progress. About noon, we saw two small sail on our starboard beam, in chase of us ; in the afternoon, a fresh x^.E. trade sprung up, when we soon ran them both out of sight astern. About 9 o'clock, p. m., it became almost calm, so much so that our vessel made but very little way through the water ; at 11, two hours after, we saw a small sail astern, coming up very fast, with light sails and oars. "We immediately manned our sweeps, and endeavored to make our escape, but all to no pui'pose. She soon commenced firing upon us with small arms, and as we could make no resistance, the captain ordered the men to lay in the sweeps and go below. She was a small lateen- rigged craft, of some 30 or 40 tons, full of men, all armed to the teeth, with pistols and long knives. They soon pulled up on our lee-quarter, and jumped on board — calling out for every body to go below. "When they fbund we were not armed, and could make no resistance, they ordered us to lower down all our sails, and wait for their consort to come up. The other vessel was much larger, schooner-rigged, and mounted six guns, with a crew, of fifty or sixty men, of all colors and all nations, but principally Spaniards and Frenchmen. The captain of the schooner boarded us in his own boat, when they all commenced overhauling our papers and stealing every thing from the deck they could lay their hands upon ; they took all our live stock, pigs, ducks, fowls, all our oars, spare cordage, paints, etc., etc. Fortunately our hatches were battened down, and the boat stowed in such a manner that they could not get into the main hold without much labor ; so that they took noth- ing of the cargo. The captain of the small privateer was the most savage-looking rascal I ever saw. He was tall, with a dark, ferocious visage, large nose, and huge mustachios, and, in short, a perfect model of a cut-throat. I am not sure what countryman he was, but I think an Italian. He spoke bad French and broken English, and from that day to this, whenever an assassin or robber is spoken of, this fellow's visage returns to 86 FIEST VOTA&E IN THE SCHOONEE HAMILTOlf. my memory. He sadly abused Capt. Waller, striking him several times in the face with his hat, and threatened to flog him before he left the vessel, because he did not heave to and prevent so long a chase. The captain of the schooner appeared to be a Frenchman, and quite a different character ; he used no bad lan- guage to any person while on board our vessel, took nothing from us, and appeared ashamed of the conduct of his associate. He remarked to the other captain, " If the schooner is a lawful prize, let us take her; if not, let her go, and not rob and plun- der in this disgraceful manner." Captain Brown, our supercargo, with a great deal of tact and good sense, tipped them the Masonic signs, and ordered the table spread with cold ham, bread and butter, cheese, wine, and porter, in short every good thing that the steward could muster, and then invited them to eat and drink, setting the example himself. They soon commenced drinking freely and singing in high glee, and all became good-natured and mellow except the captain of the small privateer, who would every now and then break off to abuse our captain, who understood not a word of French or Spanish. Our steward was a Frenchman, and a very good fellow. He was full of humor, and filled up the glasses so often, that even the cut-throat captain soon became better-natured. In the midst of this scene of noise and plunder, I put on a fine new hat in hopes by that means to save it, and went on deck ; soon after one of the crew of the small craft, stole it from my head and returned to the boat lying alongside. I immediately ran down below, and asked his captain whether he allowed his men to steal my hat from my head. He replied in Spanish, " No, mate ; no man belonging to my vessel shall steal your hat." He told me to go to the man in his name, and get it back ; I did so, but the rascal refused to obey the order. I then returned to the cabin, and told the captain that the sailor would not give it to me. The captain ran on deck, and with a threatening oath ordered the man to return the hat ; the fellow was so angry that he threw it overboard, when one of our men picked it up and gave it to me ; this put the scoundrel into a furious passion ; he drew a long knife, and swore that for one rial he would take my life. In the altercation between the cap- FmST VOYAGE IN THE BOHOONEK HAMILTON. 87 tain and the sailor, I overheard him tell his captain, that while he was plundering every thing for himself, he allowed him to take nothing ; the captain replied, " D — n you, I don't steal hats." lu this manner they detained us until about 3 o'clock in the morning, the most of them drunk, or nearly so. At this time a breeze sprung up, when they allowed us to make sail, and we were soon out of sight of these vile robbers. "We never learned to what place these pirates belonged, but, from the best information we could obtain, concluded they were from Baracca in Cuba. During the remainder of the passage we met with no incident worth noticing, and on the 23d of September, came safe to anchor in the harbor of Vera Cruz, after a passage of 23 days. "We discharged our cargo, and had no difficulty with the custom house. "We here learned that about ten days before our arrival there had been a violent gale from the north, which extended all along the coast ; that sixteen vessels had been driven on shore, and many lives lost in this terrible norther. When we had discharged our cargo, we took in some stone ballast, and fifty boxes of dollars, each containing three thousand, making a sum total of $160,000. I sold my little adventure at a profit of 150 per cent.,which gave me, as the sailors say, a good chuck under the lee bow. We remained in port three weeks, and then sailed on the 16th of October. After a passage of 18 days, we got safe back to New York on the 4th of Ifovember, making the entire voyage in 65 days. I will here remark, that although Mr. Williams was a good pilot, and a good man, we found it unnecessary to take a I^ew York pilot with us to Vera Cruz ; the captain and officers were fully competent to sail and manage a pilot-boat without one. The practice was, therefore, discontinued. Besides the Hamilton, Mr. G-racie owned another pilot-boat schooner called tlie Collector. They were both of them em- ployed in the Vera Cruz trade ; sometimes ordered from Vera Cruz to Philadelphia, but generally" to New York. Mr. Oliver owned, I think, three pilot-boat schooners in the same trade from Baltimore. I was young at this time, in a subordinate situation, 88 riEST VOYAGE EST THE SCHOONER HAMILTON. and therefore unacquainted with the arrangements made by my employers in transporting sueh an immense amount of dollars from Vera Cruz to the United States. I will, however, relate my conjectures on -the subject, without being able to vouch for , the truth of what I am about to narrate, which is as follows : That the house of Hope & Co., of Amsterdam, made a large loan to the government of old Spain upon certain conditions, one of which was, that they should receive the payment of the loan in Mexican dollars in the port of Vera Cruz, at a given rate ; and in this agreement the house of Hope & Co., or their agents, should have the privilege of introducing into Mexico a certain amoimt of European goods free from duty ; and that licenses and orders were given from the King of Spain to his Viceroy in Mexico to carry out these measures. These arrangements being made between the Spanish Government and Hope & Co., the next step was to get the goods safe to Vera Cruz, and there receive the pay for them, and also the amount of the loan in dollars, and transport them to the United States. To accomplish this part of the business, the house of Hope & Co. made an agreement with Archibald G-racie, Esq., of this city, and also with Mr. Oliver, of Baltimore, to perform their part of the duty ; that is to say, to take the goods to Vera Cruz, and bring back the proceeds in dollars, together with the amount of the government loan. I think the house of Parish & Co., of Hamburg, was concerned- with them in this transaction, but in what way I am unable to say ; nor do I pre- tend to know how much per centage or profit was paid to Messrs. G-racie & Oliver for doing the, 'business,.. but I am inclined to think they were liberally rewarded, and that they made a great deal of money by this transaction. I likewise understood that these schooners were limited to 160,000 dollars each, and that the insurance companies would not insure a greater amount in any one vessel. After the crew was paid off, I got leave of absence for a few days to visit my mother and friends in Connecticut, where I found them all well. CHAPTEE XII. SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER HAMILTON, FROM NEW YORK TO VERA CRUZ, AND BACK TO NEW YORK, WITH CAPTAIN JOHN WAL- LER, IN THE YEAR 1808. I EEMAmED at home about a week, and then returned to New York, and commenced loading the schooner on the second voy- age for Vera Cruz. Captain Waller retained the same second mate and a part of the old crew ; the residue were strangers. After getting ready for sea, we sailed from 'New York on the 10th of December, ran rapidly off the coast, and in ten days made Turk's Island, got safe through the passage, ran down be- tween Cuba and Jamaica, and arrived at Vera Cruz on the 4:th of January, twenty-three days from IsTew York, without any oc- currence worth noticing. In the winter we were allowed to anchor close under the Castles of St. Juan d'DUoa, which cir- cumstance gave us considerable shelter from the north winds, which often blow violently at this season of the year. We had landed about half our cargo when one of these gales commenced blowing with great fury. "Whenever these northers set in, per- sons on board must remain there ; all communication with the town being completely cut off. Yards and topmast were housed or got down on deck, boats all hoisted on board, cablfes secured and clinched round the masts ; thus prepared we rode out this norther, which lasted three days. Often, during these gales, the sky is perfectly clear ; still the wind is so violent, that the surf and sands are blown quite over the high sea wall into the town of Vera Cruz ; and even in the city there are such clouds of dust, that it is very difficult to go from house to house. After the norther subsided, we landed the remainder of the cargo, and 90 SECOND VOYAGE DT THE SCHOONEK HAMILTON. got smoothly through the custom house. My private adventure cost me $600 in New York, and here I sold it for one hundred and twenty-five per cent, profit, clear of all charges. We took on board a quantity of stone ballast, and then the specie, namely, fifty-five boxes, containing three thousand dollars each, making a total of $165,000. Besides the specie, we had also, as cargo, twenty-five ceroons of cochineal, and on the 25th of January sailed for New Tork, returned through the Gulf, and had only a tolerable passage until we got to the Bahama Banks ; but from Cat Key, one of the Bahamas, we had a remarkably fine run ; namely, six days to New York, at which city we arrived on the 15th of February, after a passage of eighteen days. Thus ends my second voyage to Vera Cruz in the schooner Hamilton. On our return to New York, we found the United States government had laid a general embargo on all American ves- sels within the jurisdiction of the United States. This law was made on the 22d December, 1807, consequently our vessel was laid up, and we were all discharged except the second mate, who was retained as ship-keeper. Captain "Waller went to New Orleans in search of employment. I returned home. This was a sad disappointment to me, as I had become well acquainted with these voyages, and was making money very fast; besides, the owner had promised me the command of a vessel in the trade, the first vacancy. I had, however, thank God, laid up a few thousand dollars, and up to this time had never eaten much idle bread. After remaining in Milford about six weeks, I very unex- pectedly received a letter from the owner of the Hamilton, re- questing me to repair forthwith to New York, and join the same schooner again, under the command of Captain John Eichards. I immediately obeyed the order, and on the Tth of April went on board, and commenced getting ready for the voyage, taking in stone ballast, stores, etc. About this time the government of the United States granted permission to the merchants who had property and debts abroad, to send out vessels in ballast, to collect and bring home whatever they could gather together, either in money or other available property. As ships and ves- SECOND VOYAGE IK THE SCHOONEK HAMILTON. 91 sels were allowed to take sufficient stores for the voyage, the merchants, of course, were in all cases wise enough to take a full supply, to have nothing to buy but something to spare, so that in many instances vessels were half loaded with ship and cabin stores. We had a very large crew, and of course re- quired a large supply of provisions of almost every descrip- tion. In consequence of the embargo, seamen's wages were extremely low ; our crew consisted of twenty picked men be- fore the mast, and their wages were but six dollars per month. CHAPTER Xm. THIKD VOTAUB IN THE SCHOONER HAMILTON, WITH CAPTAIN JOHN KICHARDS, FROM NEW YORK TO VERA CRUZ, THENCE TO PHILADEL- PHIA, AND BACK TO NEW YORK, IN THE YEAR 1808. We sailed from JSTew York on the lOtli of April, and took tie same route as on the two former voyages, namely, through Turk's Island passage. We met with no incident worth record- ing, and after a pleasant passage of twenty days, arrived at Vera Cruz on the first of May. The object of this voyage was two- fold ; in the first place, to collect and bring to JSTew York all debts due to Mr. Gracie from the merchants in Mexico, and in the second, to convey Mr. Yillanueva and his family to the United States. As we had no cargo to land, we had very little to do but to wait for our funds, and be ready to receive on board our distinguished passenger and his family. My private adventure cost me in New York, $600, and here I sold it for a clear profit of one hundred and fifty per cent. This was the most profitable voyage I ever made up to this date. I was also paid very lib- eral wages by the owners. The two preceding voyages I was allowed $50 per month, and on this one, where we carried no cargo, I was paid $35. As this will probably be my last voyage to Vera Cruz, I will here give a short description of the place. It is situated on the S. W. side of the Gulf of Mexico, and lies in latitude 19° 12' north, longitude 96° 9' west of London. This town, like most other Spanish places, is surrounded by a high wall with some six or eight gates, which are all closed at night. It has ten or twelve churches, and several other public buildings. Many of the houses are large and well built. Nearly all the public edi- THIBD VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER HAMILTON. 93 fices and many of tlie houses are plastered and whitened ; and when approaching the city from the sea, it has rather an impo- sing appearance. It contains from twelve to fifteen thousand inhabitants. It is built on the margin of the sea, and surround- ed by a sand barren. The weather is excessively hot in the summer season, and this, with other local causes, renders it very unhealthy during the hot months, particularly for foreigners ; in fine, the town has but few redeeming qualities, and generally strangers only visit it for the sake of gain, or pass through it to go to the city of Mexico, and are always glad to leave as soon as possible. The harbor is formed by a small sand island called St. Juan d'Ulloa, which lies directly opposite the town, and is nearly covered with walls and fortifications. This island and some six or eight sand banks called the Sacrificios, lying in a S. E. direction from St. Juan d'Ulloa, form the port of Yera Cruz; some of these banks are above water and others below ; they however serve to break the sea, and in the summer time it is pretty safe, and a very tolerable harbor. In the winter season, shipmasters should take care to anchor close under the lee of the castles, in four or five fathoms of water, where they may ride out with comparative safety a severe norther. At length after waiting about twenty days in this port, our gentleman passenger came down here from Mexico with his family. Don Jose G. de Yillanueva was the agent of the house of Hope & Co.,' of Amsterdam. He had resided several years and acquired a very large fortune in this country, where he had lately married a Mexican lady. He was highly esteemed and beloved by all classes of people, and was a very accomplished gentleman ; he spoke fluently the French, Spanish, German and English languages. "We got ready for sea, took on board a large sum in dollars (the amount I am unable to state with pre- cision), and after remaining twenty-four days in this port, sailed for Philadelphia on the 24th of May. We had a pleasant pas- sage of eighteen days, and arrived at the quarantine grounds, fourteen miles below the city, on the 12th of June. Here we were detained three days, and then permitted to proceed to Philadelphia, where we landed Mr. Yillanueva and his family. After taking the specie on shore, we remained here a few days, 94 THIED VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER HAMILTON. and then sailed for JSTew York, where we arrived on the 22d of June. We were all discharged except the second mate, Mr. Adamson, who was retained to take care of the vessel, which was laid up. On the first of July I returned to Milford, to visit my moth- er and family ; and as the embargo was still in force, I was without employment. After remaining idle for about a month, I took up my residence in Stamford, and commenced studying the French lanffuasre, under the instruction of a Frenchman re- siding there, by the name of Ferry. He had about half-a-dozen scholars, was an efficient teacher, and a pleasant, gentlemanly man. I had friends and relations living at this time in Stamford, which rendered my stay there very agreeable; and thus, be- tween New York, Stamford, and Milford, I managed to pass my leisure time very pleasantly. I was desirous that the embargo should be taken off, and not compel men bred to the sea to abandon their occupation ; and was always opposed to the Chinese policy of crawling along shore, and leaving the dominion of the ocean undisputed to Great Britain, or any other nation. On the contrary, I was in favour of an armed neutrality, and if that could not be effected and sustained, deemed open and absolute war far preferable to the practice of always acting on the defensive. As with indi- viduals, so with nations : if they do not respect themselves, they are always liable to insult. After having spent the winter in inactivity, I returned to New York on the first of March, where I found the beautiful little schooner Hamilton sold, and the trade to Vera Cruz aban- doned. CHAPTER XIV. VOYAGE IN THE BRIG HENRY AND ISABELLA FROM NEW YORK TO ST. BAR- THOLOMEW, AND BACK TO NEW YORK, IN THE YEAR 1809. On the first of March of this year the embargo was repealed by the government of the United States, and thus its citizens were left at liberty to pursue whatever course they might 'choose to adopt with respect to foreign voyages. I had been residing in Connecticut about eight months, from the time I left the Hamilton, on the first of July of last year, but on the earliest notice of the repeal of the embargo, I has- tened to New York, and was there offered the command of a small brig, called the Henry and Isabella, of 103 tons burden, owned by Messrs. Lawrence & Whitney, of this city. I forth- with accepted the offer — ^being delighted at the idea of getting to sea once more, particularly as this was my first essay as cap- tain. I took with me as mate my old friend and shipmate, Ste- phen Ti'owbridge. Our crew was composed of four seamen, a black cook, and cabin-boy. This boy was a bright lad of fifteen, called David Hepbrn-n ; he was a native of Milford, Connecti- cut. As I shall have frequent occasion to mention his name hereafter, in narrating my subsequent voyages, I am therefore scrupulously minute on this subject. We had also two cabin passengers — one was an English gentleman, Kobert Cartmel, Esq., who had resided several years in the West Indies, and owned a small portion of the cargo. He was a kind-hearted, 96 VOYAGE IN THE BKIG HENET AND ISABELLA. intelligent man ; the other was a Mr. Kice, of him I knew but little. He appeared to be going abroad to seek his fortime among the West India islands, and without much stability of purpose. After getting the cargo on board, and every thing ready, we left ISTew York, on the 3d of April, for St. Bartholo- mew. We had a pleasant passage of twenty days, and arrived safe at our destined port on the 23d of the same month. Here we lay several weeks waiting a return cargo, during which period I received much kind hospitality from the merchants, and passed the time very pleasantly. This island, which is no more than a barren rock, has a tolerable harbor at its lee or west end, and belongs to Sweden. There is here but very little cul- tivation, consequently the inhabitants are almost entirely sup- ported by commerce. I was consigned to Wm. Cock, Esq., the principal merchant at this place ; he in fact transacts the greatest part of the busi- ness done on the -island. After taking on board about 60 tierces of coffee, some casks of cocoa, and a few puncheons of rum, we got read}'- for sea. I had six French gentlemen as cabin passen- gers ; they were captains and lieutenants belonging to tlie French navy, and were from Guadaloupe. They took passage with me to New- York, in order to return from that city to France. They were attended by their own servants, and were pleasant, agreeable men. We lay in this port about five weeks. We sailed for IS'ew- York on the 25th of May, and had a very pleasant passage of fifteen days. We made a fair saving voyage for so small a vessel. As this was my first voyage as master, I was happy that every thing turned out so satisfactorily to all parties con- cerned. I had hardly got the little brig discharged, before my former friend, Archibald Gracie, Esq., gave me the com- mand of his ship Virginia, then lying at New- York. I resigned the command of the Henry and Isabella to my eldest brother, William Coggeshall, with the consent of the owners, and took charge of the ship Virginia. I had now fairly embarked on my career as a young ship- master, and adopted as my motto the following stanza from VOYAGE IN THE BEIG HENET AlTD ISABELLA. 97 Scotia's favorite bard, witli a firm resolve to carry it out to the best of my abilities : "To catch dame fortune's golden smile, Assiduoua wait upon lier, And gather gear by ev'ry wile That's justified by honor ; Not for to hide it in a hedge, Nor for a train-attendant ; But for the glorious privilege Of being independent." CHAPTEE XV. VOYAGE IN THE SHIP VIRGINIA, FROM NEW-YORK TO PETERSBURG, VA., THENCE TO EUROPE, AND BACK TO NEW-YORK, IN THE YEAR 1809. On the 1st of July, 1809, I took charge of the Virginia. This ship was about 885 tons burden, coppered and copper fastened, and considered a very good ship for those days. She had just returned from Holland under the command of Archibald Crockett, a worthy old Scotch gentleman, who had spent the greater part of his life at sea, and now of his own free will gave up the command of the Virginia, resolved to spend the remainder of his days on shore. This ship returned from Am- sterdam in ballast, so that it required but a few days to fit her for the voyage. I shipped two mates and a crew, and forth- with got ready for sea. I took Mr. Trowbridge, who was with me in the Henry and Isabella, as chief mate, and a Mr. Thomas Hardy, second mate, with a crew of ten men, who shipped by the riin for City Point. . Thus manned and equipped, we sailed from Sandy Hook on the 6th of July. • The first day out we had light winds from the southward ; the next day the wind shifted to the N. E. and E. IST. E., and continued to blow from that quarter for six days, which enabled us to get safe to City Point on the 14:th inst., eight days from New-York. The owner of the Virginia, Archibald Grade, Esq., ordered me to proceed to City Point with the ship, and apply to Messrs. Gracie, Ander- son & Co., at Petersburg, Va., for a cargo of tobacco, with staves sufficient for dunnage. This tobacco was purchased during the long embargo, at a very low price ; I believe from VOYAGE TN THE SHIP VIEGmiAi 99 one and a half to two dollars per hundred pounds. I lost no time in discharging the sand ballast, and taking in the cargo. I received on board 540 hogsheads for the owner, and ten for my own account. This ship had a large cabin, and as we had no passengers, I put my ten hogsheads into it. It was of a su- perior quality, and cost me, when on board, $615. The owner of the Virginia, Archibald Gracie, Esq., was one of the most liberal and benevolent men I ever knew. I always left him to make his own terms with respect to my wages and other perquisites, for nothing gave him more plea- sure than to see his captains, officers, and, in fine, all those in his employment, make money for themselves, as well as for him. As a proof of what I have here stated, he authorized me, at his own suggestion, to take ten hogsheads of tobacco for my private adventure. I was at this time but twenty-four years old, and had no expectations of such liberal allowance for my services. During my stay here, I got acquainted with several families some miles below City Point, generally planters, residing on the banks of the James River ; and I am happy to say I found them well bred, kind, generous, and without exception the most hospitable people I ever met with. When I sailed from City Point, I left these excellent people with much regret, and even down to the present day, often retrace the pleasant associations connected with the agreeable days spent on the banks of the river a few miles below City Point. On the 3d of August the ship was loaded, when I hired eight negroes, and proceeded with her down to Hampton Eoads, which occupied four days, and then went in a pilot- boat to Norfolk, where I shipped ten men at $28 per month. "When the embargo was taken off, there were so many vessels fitting out that seamen's wages became very high. After get- ting the men and all necessary sea-stores on board, we sailed from Norfolk, and left the Capes of Virginia on the 11th for Falmouth, England. We had a pleasant passage, without any remarkable occurrence, until we reached Lat. 47° 22' N., Long. 49° W., where we experienced a severe gale from the N. N. W. It lasted only about six hours, but during that time the sea 100 VOYAGE IN THE SHIP VIEGINIA. washed away my stern-boat, stove the long-boat, swept away the waist boards, and split in pieces the maintopsail, with some other damage of less importance. After this, we had pleasant weather until we arrived at Falmouth, on the 11th of Septem- ber, just one month after leaving Norfolk. On my arrival I hired a shore boat for two guineas and a half, to take a letter on shore to Messrs. George Fox & Sons, and to bring back another from them. "We stood off and on for about three or four hours, when the boat returned with a letter from Messrs. Fox & Sons, and also one from Messrs. Baring, Brothers & Co., of London, advising me to proceed up channel, and make the best of my way to Tonningen, calling at Heligoland for further information. After paying the boatman for taking my letter on shore and bringing off the others, I observed to him that it was better for him to take two guineas and a half (he having at first demanded five for this service), than to have refused it; for had he not complied with my offer, I certainly should have sent my own boat on shore, in which case he would have earned nothing. He replied in his provincial jargon, ""Why, yees, maister, it is better for ou, and better for we." The wind being fair, we proceeded up channel, keeping close in with the English coast, to avoid being detained by any men-of-war we might meet on the way. As the Virginia was an English built ship, she caused no suspicion. I passed very near several ships of war, who appeared not to notice us, taking her, as I suppose, for one of their own nation. I ran up channel as far as Dover, without having been spoken. Off this place, however, I was hailed by a man-of-war brig, ordered to heave to, and told that he would send his boat on board. I accord- ingly hove to, when, instead of sending a lieutenant and a mid- shipman on board as is customary, the captain came himself, with a midshipman. He examined my papers strictly, and said he was very much surprised that I had not been boarded by any British ship of war since I entered the channel. He did not intimate to me that he was captain of the brig, but from the great deference and respect paid him by the midshipman, I concluded he must be. I therefore ordered my second mate to ascertain from the coxswain of the boat whether the boarding VOYAGE IN THE SHIP VIEGINIA. 101 officer was the captain or one of the lieutenants. Both he and the boat's crew confirmed my suspicions, and said the gentle- man in question was the captain of the brig. He hesitated some time, whether he should send me into some port in Eng- land, or let me go. At length, after a vexatious and scrutiniz- ing examination, I was allowed to proceed on my voyage to- wards Heligoland. At this period, there was no respect paid to the rights of neutral ships, either by England or France. On the contrary, it was almost a daily occurrence, that upon the slightest sus- picion, or even at the mere caprice of English naval command- ers, that American ships were sent into British ports, for adju- dication. Sometimes, they were condemned upon the most frivolous pretences, and if eventually cleared, their owners were subject to exorbitant charges and vexatioiis delays. Thus it often happened, that through this unjust and arbitrary interference with the rights of peaceful commerce by the two aforesaid bel- ligerent nations, many voyages were broken up and entirely ruined. The poor neutral ships were driven from pillar to post, treated with every kind of indignity, and could find no safety in any part of Europe, except in Eussia. His Britannic Majesty, so called, was the great sea-robber, while the selfish and unjust Bonaparte, was the great land-robber; so that between them both, the whole world was laid under contribution to support and carry on their devastating wars. The world has been too long gulled and deceived by great names, and dazzled by what military men call glory. It is time to call things by their right names ; for a king tliat takes any thing unjustly, is as much a robber as the captain of a band of brigands ; all the difference between them is, that the one robs on a great, and the other on a small scale. It is the legitimate duty of seamen to brave the tempest and the storm, and to look out for rocks and shoals by night and by day. These perils we can endure, but the injustice, oppression, and cupidity of our fellow-men, are trials which are hard to bear. After the detention by the English brig-of-war, we met with 102 VOYAGE m THE SHIP TIEGINIA. no further interruption, nor any thing worth recording, until we arrived at Heligoland, on the 17th of September, seven days from Falmouth. Here I was detained two days in consequence of bad weather. This is a very singular little island. It be- longs to England, and is about twenty-five miles off the mouths of the rivers Elbe and Eider. It is about two miles long, and one and a half broad ; has no good harbor, but a roadstead, where there is tolerable anchorage during the summer season. Its shores are very abrupt and somewhat high. I should judge it was from one hundred and fifty to one hundred and eighty feet above the level of the ocean, and its face may be termed table-land from its smooth surface. It contains about 2000 in- habitants ; the richer classes inhabit the table-land, where they have a church, and rather a pretty town ; while the lower classes dwell in a dirty village on the shore below the hill ; they are mostly pilots and fishermen, with their families. All the porters are females ; they wear men's hats, and are a coarse, vulgar-looking race. There is no other way of getting from the lower to the upper town, but by winding wooden stairs, to ascend which is very inconvenient and fatiguing. I landed on the 19th of September at Heligoland, and had a letter of intro- duction from Messrs. Baring, Brothers & Co., of London, to Mr. A. Ellerman, merchant, at this place, desiring him to assist me in getting a pilot to take the ship into the river Eider. The pilots here are a vile set of extortioners, and would scarcely save a drowning man without pay ; in a word, they are a notorious set of unprincipled rascals. These fellows all charged, me five hundred Spanish dollars to take my ship into the river, a dis- tance of say twenty-five to thirty miles, but after a great deal of chaffering one of them was persuaded, through the influence of Mr. E., to take the ship into the river for $400. Many ship- masters were obliged to pay for this service as high as $600, and in some instances even as high as one thousand. At this time there were several ships standing off and on the island, waiting to get pilots. Some would not pay the price asked, and knew not what to do. After I got one on board, as the wind was blowing strong from the westward, I filled away for the VOYAGE IN THE SHIP VIEGimA. 103 river's mouth. At this time the ship Brutus of New York, Capt. Macy, was standing off and on, but had fallen to leeward two or three miles, and was beating up to get a pilot from the island. I spoke him and inquired whether he had one ; found he had none. He asked me if I would allow him to follow my ship into the river, and said he would willingly pay half the pilotage. This was instantly agreed upon, when we filled away and stood directly for the river's mouth. "We had not proceeded far before the pilot began to grumble, and swear that he would not conduct two ships. I replied that he had nothing to do with the other, but to attend to mine, and that if she should touch the bottom, that moment he was a dead man. I then showed him a loaded pistol, and convinced him that I was ready to carry out the threat ; this seemed to cool down the fellow's courage, and induced him to plead for my intercession with the captain of the Brutus to give him a handsome present. The wind continued fair, and the weather clear enough to see our way into the mouth of the river, which is very narrow, with dismal sand-banks on either side. In about four hours after the pilot came on board we were safely anchored inside, on the 18th of September, 37 days from Norfolk. It soon became very thick and dark, and during the whole night blew a severe gale from the westward directly on shore. "While the wind and sea were roaring terribly outside, we lay safe and snug within the mouth of the narrow river, where the water was as smooth as a mill pond, protected and sheltered by sand-banks on every side. None but a seaman can fully realize the joy and delight it gives one to run from a stormy lee shore into a safe port. The feel- ing of conscious security, contrasted with the exposure to the tempest and the howling of the storm, is absolutely indescrib- able. Early the next morning the ship was taken up to Vollerick, and moored in the river. This place is about five miles below Tonningen. By my orders from Messrs. Baring, Brothers & Co., I employed Peter Todson, Esq., of this place, as our com- mercial agent. I found here a great number of American ships — I think from forty to fifty sail. Tonningen is a small, insig- 104 VOYAGE m THE SHIP VIRGINIA. nificant place, about seventy miles from Hamburg, and only brought into notice from the fact of the many restrictions on commerce by England and France. Both these nations, at this time, acted upon the principle of forcing all others to take part in their quarrels, and not allow any of them to remain neutral. These vexatious restraints drove peaceful trade out of its natural and regular channels, to small fishing towns on the borders of large kingdoms and states. Agreeably to the orders of my owner, Archibald Gracie, Esq., I wrote to Messrs. Hope & Co., at Amsterdam, and to Messrs. Parish & Co., at Hamburg, advising them of my arrival, and that I was waiting their orders what to do with the cargo. In answer to my letters, the latter gentleman wrote me to dis- charge the tobacco, and that Mr. Todson would forward it to Hamburg. I forthwith commenced unloading, and after this was accomplished, left the ship in charge of the chief mate, and took a public conveyance, with six other passengers, for Ham- burg. We traveled through Danish Holstein in wagons with- out springs, taking post-horses the whole route. "We frequently found the roads very rough, and were consequently jolted to our heart's content. The postilions are a dull, sluggish race of biped animals, and jog along at the slow rate of about four English miles the hour. They are all inveterate smokers, and are never seen without pipes in their mouths. The face of the country is of a moderate height, rather undulating and generally pretty well cultivated. "We passed through several towns and villages of some note. The public houses and taverns in the towns along the road were tolerably well kept, and their prices reasonable. The inhabitants of Holstein are a hardy, good- looking race of men, with light hair and blue eyes, and I should think, generally a virtuous, industrious people. The greater portion of them are agriculturists, and they also raise large numbers of cattle and horses, which are sold in the adjacent states. We left Tonningen at noon, traveled all night, and got to Hamburg the next morning. I was politely received by Messrs. Parish & Co., and soon felt at home in this agreeable city. These gentlemen confirmed VOYAGE IN THE SHIP VIEGINIA. 105 in person what they had before written me, namely, that Mr. Gracie's orders to them were, that the tobacco should be left in their hands, to be sold in Hamburg, and the avails remitted to London for his account ; that the ship should be ballasted with sand, and return without delay to New York. Hambui'g is so well known, that it would be quite superflu- ous for me to say much on the subject. I will therefore only remark, that it lies on the north bank of the river Elbe, about sixty miles above its mouth. It is a great commercial city, and contains about 130,000 inhabitants. At this period it was gar- risoned hj French troops, and had French doudniers at the gates. I found Hamburg a gay, pleasant city — the living good and cheap, and altogether one of the most desirable residences for a young man that I am acquainted with. After spending about ten days in this delightful city, I returned to Tonningen by the same route I came. Before sailing from this place for home, I left in the hands of Messrs. Parish & Co. my ten hogsheads of tobacco, with a request to have them disposed of without delay, and the proceeds remitted to Samuel Williams, Esq., of London, subject to my order. I know not how much money Mr. Gracie realized by the five hundred and forty hogsheads of tobacco, but, judging from what I cleared on my ten hogsheads, he must have made a very great voyage. I am aware that the chai'ges and expenses were very considerable ; still, considering the low price of the article when purchased in Petersburg, and the high price it sold for in Hamburg, I am confident it must have left a very large profit. I believe this quality of tobacco was worth at this time, in Ham- burg, from $16 to $20 per hundred pounds. Besides the large profit on the sale of the tobacco, there was also a great gain on the exchange between England and the United States. As our cargo was in great demand, it was soon sold, and the proceeds remitted to London. At Tonningen, ships are bal- lasted with great facility, and at a moderate expense. Thus, at high water, they anchor large lighters on a clean sand-bank, and at low tide load them with shovels ; and when they float. 106 TOTAGB IN THE SHIP VIBGINIA. the lighters are taken alongside of the ship, and soon dis- charged. As a proof of my remarks on the rapacious character of the Heligoland pilots, I will relate an incident which occurred dur- ing my stay here. Several of these pilots having rescued an American sailor from drowning, called the same day on the American captains in this port to pay them for this service. To prevent any evil consequences that might arise, we made up a purse of ten dollars, and presented it to these unconscionable extortioners. After lying in this port forty-seven days, we sailed, on the 4th of ISTovember, for New York, in company with ten or iifteen sail of ships and vessels bound mostly to England and the United States. "We took our departure from Heligoland, and were fa- vored with a fine fresh gale at E. and E. IST. E., and clear, pleas- ant weather for four days. I steered directly for Fair Island passage, and three days after leaving Heligoland, made and passed this island, one of the Orkneys. The next day the wind shifted to the S. "W"., and continued to blow from that quarter for several days. As I could not weather Ireland by tacking, I concluded to stand on to the N. "W"., and wait for a change of wind to the W. IST. W. Although it was now about the middle of l^ovember, and the days were very short, still I continued on the same tack until I got within two days' sail of Iceland, when, to my great joy, the wind shifted to the N. "W"., and then I made a glorious run, and got soundings on the banks of New- foundland in seven days. After this fortunate run, I met with variable winds and weather — sometimes fair and sometimes foul — ^until I arrived at New York, on the 16th of December, forty- two days from Tonningen. Some of the ships that left in com- pany with us, bound to the United States, passed through the English Channel, and some few went through Fair Island pas- sage. The winter was uncommonly severe, with almost constant gales from the westward. On my arrival at New York, not one of the vessels had arrived ; some of those that passed through the English Channel were compelled to put into England to refit VOYAGE m THE SHIP VIEGINIA. - 107 and repsfir damages. I claim no merit in making a shorter pas- sage than the ships that sailed when I did, as it certainly grew out of the circumstances of the case ; the same course taken on another passage from the same place, might perhaps prove a complete failure. After discharging and paying off the officers and seamen, I again returned to my native home ; and am hap- py to add, that I made a good voyage both for myself and own- ers, and believe that all parties interested were satisfied. CHAPTEE XVI. FIRST VOYAGE IN THE PILOT-BOAT SCHOONER ELIZA, PROM NEW YORK TO TONNINGEN, AND BACK TO NEW YORK, IN THE YEAR 1810. I BEMAiNED a few weeks witli my mother and friends in Con- necticut, and then returned to New York, where I found the ship Virginia had been sold, and was loading with a cargo of flax-seed for Ireland. Mj late employer, Mr. Gracie, had no other ship at the moment that required a captain, or in other words, there was no vacancy for me to fill at this time, and be- ing very desirous of employment, I was ready to embrace the first fair offer. Messrs. Isaac Moses & Sons, a very respectable commercial house in this city, had lately purchased a new pilot- boat schooner called the Eliza. This vessel was built in Con- necticut, and measured one hundred and fifty-two tons. I took the command of her on the 12th of February, and commenced loading for Tonningeu. Our cargo consisted of one hundred and forty two large chests of indigo, one hundred bales of cot- ton, several tons of logwood, and sundry other valuable articles of less bulk. We finished loading the schooner on the 5th of March, and were soon ready for sea. I took with me my for- mer mate, Mr. Stephen Trowbridge, six men and a cook. One of the crew was my brother, James Coggeshall, a lad of fifteen years. "We sailed from New Tork on the 10th of March, were favored with fresh and fair gales from the westward for several days, had a fine run off the coast, and were once more on the bosom of the broad Atlantic. All around us was one vast ex- panse of deep blue water, and all above us beautiful azure sky, with occasional changes of light and shade as the sun shone out FIRST VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEK ELIZA. 109 or was obscured by passing clouds. It is true there is much, monotony at sea, and the same daily routine of duty to be- per- formed ; still, to the contemplative mind there is much to ad- mire, and many grand objects to view, both by night and by day, to exalt and elevate the mind to higher scenes than those connected with our little earth, which, in comparison with the revolving worlds around us, is but a point or speck in the uni- verse. Thus far on our passage nothing occurred worthy of notice, until the 20th, on the tenth day from New York, when on the eastern edge of the grand bank of Newfoundland, in lat. 46° N., Ion. from 50° to 47° W., at 10 o'clock at night we fell in with im- mense quantities of field ice, and before we were aware of our situation, were completely surrounded and blocked in on every side. The wind was light from the W. N. W., and the sea smooth. I shortened sail, hauled up to the S. E., and during the night made but little distance ; at daylight, March the 21st, there was nothing to be seen but one vast field of ice as far as the eye could extend. I continued on the same course during the day, working through it the best way we could, sometimes going at the rate of two or three miles the hour, at other times making no headway at all for an hour or two, fearing constantly that our little vessel would be crushed, by forcing her through the dense masses of ice. Just before night we providentially - got into an open space free from it. This space of open sea was perhaps three miles in circumference ; here I resolved to remain, all night, deeming it more safe and prudent than to pursue om* course in doubt and darkness. In this little harbor we rested for the night, tacking about under easy sail. The next morning at daylight, I could see from aloft nothing but fields of ice, as on the preceding day. We therefore concluded to pursue our S. E. course, and work through it by gently forcing the schooner along with the sails, while the crew pried the ice from the bows of the vessel with oars and boat-hooks. The weather was very cold, and it was a dreary sight to behold these frozen fields, and no open sea. "While struggling through these compact masses, we saw a great number of seals sporting and crawling about the ice cakes, apparently happy and contented, at home, in their 110 FIKST VOYAGE IIT THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. own native element. About noon this day the ice became less dense, and we found more open sea ; at 4 p. m. we were quite free from field ice, made more sail, and were enabled to steer more to the eastward. "We ran all night to the E. S. E. under easy sail, and the next morning at daylight, March the 23d, saw no more field ice, but what was much more grand and sublime, immense numbers of large icebergs ; some of them I should judge were two or three hundred feet long, and from seventy to eighty feet above the surface of the water. We sailed through these islands all the forenoon, and at 3 p. m., on the 24th, to our great joy entirely lost sight of them, feeling ourselves fortunate in escaping from our late perilous situation. On a fine day, when the sun shines out bright and clear, icebergs are grand and imposing objects ; when seen at a dis- tance they appear like a large fleet of ships under full sail, and when drawing nearer to them, are still more beautiful. They are formed in every variety of shape, and with a little help of the imagination, appear like crystal palaces and float- ing castles, constructed in every style of architectural elegance. Others again have very grotesque forms, appear like huge animals supporting each other on their backs, and thus form a very interesting spectacle. The Eliza was a good, strong little vessel, or she would inevitably have been lost ; the ice raked the oakum out of the seams, and made her leak a little ; it also tore the cutwater from the stem, with some other trifling damage, but nothing to render her unsafe to perform her destined voyage. Five years previous to this period, not far from where we fell in with the field ice, Capt. Eichard Law of New London lost the ship Jupiter of New York. I herewith insert an ac- count of this melancholy catastrophe, which I have extracted from a newspaper of that day. Capt. Law was an old friend of mine, and a most worthy, excellent man. The Jupiter was from London, bound to JSTew York; nothing occurred worthy of notice until the morning of the 6th of April, 1805, when in lat. 43° JST. Ion. 49° W. they feE in with numerous icebergs. They were compelled to make their way among them the best way they could, tacking for one and keeping FIKST VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEK ELIZA. Ill away for another, until obliged to shorten Bail, and steer wher- ever they could find an open passage through the broken ice. During the whole day Captain Law never left the deck, and by great vigilance managed through the day to preserve the ship from injury. At nightfall their situation was truly appal- ling ; large masses of ice were floating, and dashing against their ill-fated vessel, until a blow from a block of ice penetrated the starboard bow, and fixed the doomed ship. Both pumps were rigged, but the water rushed in so fast that it was soon found the ship was sinking, and their only resource was to take to their boats with as little noise as possible, so as not to alarm the passengers below. Accordingly thirty-eight raen, wo- men, and children, embarked in the long-boat, which was then given in charge to the second mate. The captain, chief mate, one seaman, and five cabin and steerage passengers got into the jolly-boat, and pushed off to avoid being carried down with the ship ; one young man who had a mother and sister in the cabin, nobly refused to go into the boat, preferring to die wl'^h his friends rather than survive them. Twenty-seven passengers wei*e asleep below, and as the boats were already full, they wisely judged it best to let them remain ignorant of their fate. In their haste to leave the ship, they had only time to take a bottle of water and a few trifling eatables. In half an hour after the boats left, the waters closed over the unfortunate ship and every soul on board. The long-boat took the yawl in tow, during all that night and a part of the next day, during which time they were struggling through the ice, and suffering intensely from hunger and cold. After getting into clear water, the jolly-boat was cut loose, when they separated, and saw no more of each other. On the 9th, three days after leaving the ship. Captain Law and his fellow-sufferers were picked up by the fishing schooner Joanna, Capt. Henry Quiner, and carried to Marblehead. It was long before any intelligence was received from those in the long-boat; they were, however, taken up on the 9th of April (the same day on which Captain Law and his party were rescued by the Joanna) by an outward-bound ship, and carried to London. 112 FIEST VOYAGE IN THE SCHOOOTSE ELIZA. From this period to our making the Island of Eona, off the N. W. coast of Scotland, on the 10th of April, we had nothing but severe gales and stormy weather ; in fact, it was the most boisterous passage I had ever experienced up to this time. The next day after making Eona, I saw the north coast of Scotland about Cape "Wrath. Here I spoke the ship Pilgrim, Captain. Littlefield, last from St. Sebastian, bound to Tonningen ; the Pilgrim had been a long time at sea, and was short of provisions, particularly bread. The captain said he had lost his stern-boat, and that his long-boat would not float ; he therefore requested me to send mine on board, and supply him with some necessary stores. I accordingly sent my boat to ascertain what he most wanted ; she soon returned with a polite note from the super- cargo, Mr. Depeyster, stating that the Pilgrim had been nearly four months from New York, and was in great want of almost every necessary of life. I then put into the boat three barrels of pilot bread, some. hams, and a few bottles of Holland gin, and ordered the officer of the boat not to go alongside of the ship, but to go astern, and let them haul the bread and other articles on board over the taffrail, the sea being so high that I deemed it unsafe to go alongside. This order was promptly executed, when the boat returned and was hoisted in without accident. The Pilgrim was an eastern ship, I think from Portland or Portsmouth, and chartered in New York, from whence she sailed. She touched off St. Sebastian, and after communicating with that place, was afraid to enter for fear of seizure, as Bona- parte had already laid his iron grasp upon several American ships and their cargoes, while lying in that port ; thus situated, the supercargo concluded to proceed to Tonningen, and was now on his way thither. I hailed the Pilgrim again, and in- quired of the captain whether he felt disposed to run for the Pentland Firth ; he replied that he was unacquainted with the passage, and dare not attempt it. I told him I had a fine chart of the Firth, and a good book of directions ; still he concluded not to venture so dangerous a passage. The wind was now at N. ]Sr. E. and N. E., and to beat up to Fair Island passage would, ip all probability, be a long and tedious business, and thus, after mutual good wishes, we separated. I immediately FIEST VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. 113 filled away with a free wind for the Pentland Firth, and he con- tinued to beat up for Fair Island. The next morning, April the 11th, I got down into the neighborhood of the passage. The wind being light at N. E. and the ebb tide running out of the North Sea against us, I hauled in shore not far to the westward of Duncansby Head, and there ran into a little bay to keep out of the strength of the current, until the change of the tide. Here I was boarded by a boat, with six oarsmen and a Patroou, bound to South Ronaldsha; he inquired whether I wanted a pilot to take me through the Firth, I answered that depended upon the price. From my experience with Heligoland pilots, I was cautious, and fearing extortion, demanded the price to take me through the Firth ; he said he would charge but a guinea and a half, I told him to come on board, that I would willingly give him two. I recollect the name of the Patroou or captain of the boat was Pitcairn, a very intelligent, clever fellow, and, like the generality of his countrymen, very candid, honest, and sincere. Soon after, the tide began to make in our favor, when we sailed out into the middle of the passage to have its full benefit ; the wind became very light and the current so strong that we had no command of the vessel. At this moment it appeared as though the current was setting the schooner directly on to Duncansby Head, a high, bold, abrupt cape, which in our situation had a most terrific appearance. On my expressing my fears to the pilot, he said there was no kind of danger ; that before we got to the head, the current would carry us off again in safety. On the other side of the Firth, are several small islands, called the Pentland Skerries, and after passing Duncansby Head, I began to fear these rocky islands ; but here again the pilot assured me that I need be under no ap- prehension, that the strength of the current would take me directly through the passage, and that it was about time for him to leave us. He then inquired whether I would pay him in rum ; I asked what rum was worth a gallon ; he said a guinea. I accordingly gave him two gallons, with a quantity of bread, beef, etc., and we parted mutually satisfied. 8 114 FIEST VOYAGE m THE SCHOONER ELIZA. I have never before or since seen the current run so rapidly as in this passage ; at times it roars like distant thunder, and not having on hand any books to refer to on the subject, I am afraid to state its rate of running ; but am under the impression that at the full and change of the moon, that is to say, at spring tides, its force is eight or ten miles the hour. After the pilot left us, I made sail with a pleasant breeze from the N. E. and in six days got to Heligoland ; there I readily obtained a pilot at a moder- ate price, say about fifty dollars, and came safe to anchor in the Eider, at the port of Tonningen, on the ITth of April, thirty- seven days from New York. I will here observe that the Pil- grim did not get here until about a month after, and that fears were expressed for her safety. On her arrival, the supercargo told me they had been on short allowance of bread for several days ; and both he and the captain expressed a great deal of gratitude for the supply of bread and other things they had re- ceived from me. On my arrival, I wrote to Joshua Moses, Esq., one of the owners of the Eliza, and also to Messrs. Parish & Co., at Ham- burg, advising them of my being here, and in a few days got answers from these gentlemen, requesting me to delay entering the schooner at the custom house for some days, as they had not decided whether to dispose of the cargo at Hamburg, or to pro- ceed through the canal to Kiel, or some other port in the Baltic. The markets here were not so good for colonial produce as on my last voyage, which caused Mr. Moses to delay selling for several weeks. On the 11th of May, however, I received a let- ter from him informing me that he had sold the indigo, de- liverable in Tonningen, and appointed Mr. Joachim Lexon, as our commercial agent ; that he wished the cargo all landed as soon as possible, and that he had purchased some portion of our return cargo. "We accordingly discharged the schooner without delay, and took on board a quantity of iron ballast. A few days after the schooner was discharged, Mr. Moses arrived here from ITamburg, and politely invited me to return with him to that city, and aid him in the purchase of our return cargo, for the New York market. I knew very little about the ITR8T VOYAGE IN THE BCHOONEE ELIZA. 115 selection of Frencli and German goods, and of course received the invitation to spend a week or ten days in Hamburg as a compliment from Mr. Moses, who was always polite and gentle- manly, and treated me more like a friend and companion, than a hired captain in his employ. He had with him his own post- chaise, and always travelled like a gentleman. "We took post- horses on the road, and had a very pleasant jaunt to Hamburg. I had been here on my last voyage, in the ship Yirginia, and having been absent only about six or eight months, found no difficulty in renewing my former acquaintance with my com- mercial friends, besides receiving much hospitality from my former consignees, Messrs. Parish & Co. Mr. Moses introduced me to several other mercantile houses, by whom we were politely entertained ; and thus I had the pleasure to spend ten days very satisfactorily in this agreeable city. Although the German is the language of this place, still a stranger has no difficulty in communicating with a great portion of the inhabit- ants. Erom its extensive commerce all the, modern languages are spoken here : all the large dealers and most of the shop- keepers, speak two or three tongues, namely, German, French and English, and frequently Spanish and Italian. I often dined with merchants and their families, during my stay here, and have been delighted to hear their children con- verse with several captains and supercargoes of different nations, each in their own language. In all my travels about the world, I have never found a people acquire foreign languages with so much facility as the Germans. After Mr. Moses liad made all his purchases, and dispatched his goods to Tonningen, I return- ed in a post-wagon, by the same road we came, and arrived safe on the 15th of May. The goods purclaased in Hamburg consist- ed of glass-ware, German linens, French silks, etc., etc., and al- together amounted to one hundred and fifty-two bales and pack- ages. A large portion of these goods was very valuable, and very much wanted at this time in the United States. We fin- ished loading our schooner on the ith, and after waiting about a week for a fair wind, sailed on the 11th of June, bound for ISTew Toi-k, making our stay here just fifty-four days. "We took the northern route, viz., through Fair Island passage, and met 116 FIEST VOTA&E IN THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. with notHug worth remarking, until we arrived at New York, on the 23d of July, forty-three days from Tonningen, All our return cargo sold well, and the little schooner made an excellent voyage. Through the advice and assistance of Mr. Moses, I pur- chased while in Hamburg a quantity of French and German goods, for my own private adventure, which paid a very large profit. The voyage was soon settled, to the satisfaction of all parties concerned, and I again returned to my native place in Connecticut. CHAFIER XVn. SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER ELIZA, FROM NEW YORK TO SWEDEN AND RUSSIA, AND BACK TO NEW YORK, IN THE YEARS 1810 AND 1811. I HAD but a fortnight's leisure witli my mother and sister in Mil- ford, before I received a letter from my employers, Messrs. Moses & Co., informing me that they had decided on sending the Eliza on another voyage to the north of Europe, and requesting me to return to 'New York, and commence loading with as little delay as possible. I therefore lost no time, but forthwith returned, and commenced loading the schooner, for Gottenburg and a market. Our cargo consisted of Havana sugar, coffee, rum, se- gars, nankeens and a variety of other valuable articles. I took with me my former mate, Mr. Trowbridge, and also my brother James — the remainder of the crew were strangers. On the 30th of August we were ready, and sailed the next day, with a light breeze from the IST. N. E., with open, cloudy weather. The wind was light during the day, and the ocean uncommonly smooth, so that we did not lose sight of the High- lands of Neversink until dark. "We ran off to the E. S. E., and soon got clear of the coast. "We were favored with southerly and westerly winds, and generally fine weather, as is usual at this season of the year. N'othing worthy of remark occurred until the 11th of Sep- tember, on the eleventh day from New York, when we got soundings in forty fathoms of water, on the grand bank of New- foundland. After this, we continued to have fair westerly winds, until we reached the longitude 23° west ; here the wind shifted to the S. E., and blew violently from that quarter for several 118 SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER ELIZA. hours. It soon raised a liigh sea, and then gradually subsided to a calm, when, for want of wind to steady her, our little schoon- er was terribly tossed about for the space of two hours. After that, the wind suddenly returned to the N. "W., and blew a per- fect hurricane. We shipped a sea, which washed the binnacle and compasses overboard, and many light things from the deck. I was driven with great force into the lee-waist, and came very near being washed overboard. The wind split our mainsail and jib in pieces, and blew with such violence that we were obliged to lie to for eight hours, under a double-reefed foresail. We were now nineteen days out, and had thus far made good progress on our passage. The next day it became more moderate, when we again made sail, with the wind at W. and N. W. It continued favorable for four days, when we made the island of Barra, bearing S. S. E., distant about four leagues, twenty-three days from New York. Soon after, we saw Kona Island. Barra and Kona are two high, rocky islands, not far asunder, lying off the IST. W. coast of Scotland, in latitude 59° north, and longitude about 6° 15' west. The next day we saw the light-house on North Eonaldsha, six miles distant. Fair Island bore at this time east about twenty miles. The next day, September the 26th, at noon, passed quite near Fair Island — I should think within a mile of its south shore. Two boats full of men came alongside and supplied us with fish ; they were a poor, miserable looking race, and filthy to the last degree. They informed me that there were about three hundred souls on the island, who subsisted by catching fish, now and then gaining a few dollars by piloting ships through the passage, and sometimes selling a few eggs, .stockings, &c. It is a very small island — perhaps two miles long and one broad — of a moderate height, in latitude 59° 29' north ; longitude, 1° 47' west. We had light winds from the southward for two days, when we made the land about Stowenger, in Norway, sixty miles from the Naze, bear- ing from E. N. E. to S. E., distant eleven or twelve leagues. On the 1st of October the weather was clear and fine, with light winds from the southward ; a fleet of ships and brigs passed us, standing to the eastward ; saw the land about the Naze of Norway, bearing N. E. The next day saw the land, about thir- SECOND VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. 119 ty-five miles to the southwai-d and westward of the Skaw Point, in Jutland ; at noon this day, the Skaw light-house bore S. "W. two leagues distant. The next day, made "Wingo Island, bearing E. S. E., two leagues distant ; at 6 p. m., took in sail and hauled off shore, it being too late to go into port ; stood off and on all night. At 9 a. m., October 4th, we procured a. pilot, and at 10 A. M. came to anchor in the port of Gottenburg, about twelve miles from the city. While off this port we found our rudder was out of order, and worked with great difficulty. After coming to anchor we examined it, and discovered that one of the copper pintals was broken. I felt myself fortunate to get into port without its entire loss. We were soon visited by the health-boat, and though all well, were requested to proceed immediately to the quarantine groiznd, and remain there until further orders. We found the quarantine a small, snug harbor, four fathoms deep, and nearly surrou.nded with high rocks. The next day we were again visited by the health-boat and liberated from quarantine, after a day's detention. I now wrote to Mr. Moses, who was at this time residing at Copenhagen, and also to the house of Parish & Co. at Hamburg, advising them of my arrival, and stating that I should wait their orders where to proceed. I concluded to let the schooner remain in this little harbor until I could repair the rudder. Eor this purpose I un- shipped it, and got a new pintal made in Gottenburg. After it was repaired and ready, I took sufficient cargo out of the run and after-part of the vessel and placed it forward, so that I was enabled to ship the rudder without discharging the schooner. When I again returned to the inner port of Gottenburg, six miles from the town, there were lying there several English line of battle ships, frigates and sloops of war. Many merchant ships of different nations were daily arriving at this place of rendez- vous to proceed up the Categat and Baltic. The flag-ship at this port was the Victory, Admiral Sir James Soiimarez. The merchant vessels had been collecting for several weeks, and as this was the last convoy into the Baltic for the season, a great number of them of all descriptions liad assembled — I believe at least six hundred sail. The whole of this vast ileet were nom- inally neutral ships, sailing under the different flags of nearly all 120 SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER ELIZA. the petty states of G-ermany, and their cargoes purporting to be the bona fide property of their respective countries, while in point of fact, the most of them were English property, cloaked or covered by the flags of these different nations by simulated or counterfeit papers. I was told at this period that it was an every day occurrence in London to manufacture false papers and invoices, and that an entire set of simulated papers for a ship, could be procured for 10 guineas, and so adroitly executed that it was difficult to detect them. On the continent, Bonaparte was striving to carry out his plan to conquer England, by cutting off all their commerce with Europe. He accordingly prohibited the introduction of all British goods, and their colonial productions, and frequently or- dered a quantity of English manufactured goods to be burnt on the public squares in the different towns and cities on the con- tinent. He said they were a nation of money-loving shop- keepers, devoid of honor or integrity, and the most effectual way to subdue them, was to annihilate their trade and commerce and thus create a revolution in England, so that they should de- stroy themselves by civil war. In England the government was compelled to sustain the manufactures to keep the working classes from idleness, riot and rebellion. The difficulty and risk of disposing of their manufactured articles on the continent of Europe, and the fear of seizure, compelled them to resort to every stratagem that human ingenuity could invent ; and yet, notwithstanding all these indirect expedients, their manufactured goods were constantly accumulating, and sales daily made at ruinous prices. A few days before M'e sailed from Gottenburg, an order was given for the captains of all neutral vessels to repair on board the flag-ship, for sailing orders or instructions how to sail in the fleet. Signals were given them to enable each one to comply with the order of sailing ; and, among others, several American captains went for written instructions. On applying to the first lieutenant, and telling him they were Americans, he discourte- ously said — You certainly have .a great deal of assurance to call on us for protection, when your country and government treat the British nation with offensive barbarity — prohibiting us the SECOND VOTAGE IN THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. 121 use of your harbors, and often refusing our stips-of-war water and fresh provisions. After this tirade, he gave them their sail- ing orders, and left them to repair on board, without the usual ceremony of seeing them leave the ship. "When I heard this statement from my countrymen, I re- solved to ask for no orders. As mine was a fast-sailing schoon- er, I knew I could choose my own position in the fleet, and could not believe them such barbarians as to drive me away from it. I therefore took the responsibility, and sailed with the rest, without a scrap of paper. None but those engaged in commerce at this period can at all realize the annoying persecutions neutral nations and theii' ships and commerce experienced from the English and French gov- ernments and their satellites. Although I suffered, in many in- stances, much ill treatment and vexatious detention, still I do not wish to exaggerate or amplify the subject ; all I desire is, to impress upon the minds of the present generation what their fathers have suffered, that they may know by comparison how to prize the privileges they so richly enjoy, namely, wealth, power, peace and prosperity. About ten days after my arrival, Mr. J. Moses came on hei-e from Hamburg, and appointed Messrs. Martin, Hatterman & Sons, of this place, as ray commercial agents, to advance me all necessary funds, and assist me as business friends. Mr. M. advised me to proceed with the convoy through the Great Belt, then leave it, and push on for Carlsham in Sweden, where I would find letters directing me where to go from thence. Mr. M. then left Gottenburg for Kiel, to ascertain the state of the markets in Prussia, and whether American ships and goods would be free from seizure by the French, in the Baltic ports along the Prussian coast. He finally came to the conclusion that no American property was safe on the Prussian side of the Baltic ; and although very late in the season, under all the cir- cumstances of the case he thought it best for me to push on for some port in Kussia. Gottenburg is too well known to require any particular de- scription from me. I will therefore only make a few general remarks on the subject. In point of size, it is the second city 122 SECOND VOYAGE EST THE SOHOONEE ELIZA. in the kingdom of Sweden, and contains about thirty thousand inhabitants ; it has a spacious harbor, and lies in latitude 57° 42' N., longitude 11° 58' E. of London, and about two hundred and sixty miles S. "W. of Stockholm. The land about the har- bor and in the vicinity of the city appears rocky, rough and barren, still the valleys must be very fertile. I observed, while lying here, that besides supplying their city, and a large num- ber of their own ships and vessels, there were in this port a nu- merous fleet of English men-of-war, and some eight hundred sail of merchant ships, to be daily supplied with fresh provisions and vegetables, and still there was enough, and at very reason- able prices, besides fish in great abundance. We sailed on the morning of the 24th of October, bound to Carlsham, by the way of the Great Belt. At this time there was war between England and Denmark, which prevented the English from passing through the sound by Elsineur and Copen- hagen ; they were therefore compelled to go through the pas- sage between Zealand and Funen, called the Great Belt. This is a rocky and dangerous passage, not wide enough for a large number of ships to beat to windward, so that whenever the wind was contrary, the whole fleet immediately came to anchor, no matter how deep the water might be, or how rocky the bot- tom. The first day after leaving Gottenburg, we had light winds from the IsT. E., and clear, pleasant weather. At meridian, Med- dengin light bore S. S. E., eight miles distant. The next day, Oct. 26th, the wind continued light, and the weather clear. At 8 A. M., Anholt bore S. S. "W"., five leagues distant. The schooner Eliza, being pilot-boat built, sailed remarkably fast, which enabled me to run ahead of the fleet, that is to say, all except the flag-ship St. George, of 74 guns ; this vessel led the van ; of course, no merchant vessel was allowed to go ahead of the admiral. I used often to amuse myself with speaking the American vessels — some eight or ten in number — and after passing the merchant ships, would then take in all sail, except the foretopsail, and thus, under very little canvas, had no difii- culty in keeping up with the fleet. At night, the standing sig- nal was for the headmost ships to shorten sail and close convoy. It sometimes happened that one of the frigates was ordered to SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. 123 make fast to a dull sailing ship, and tow lier up into the midst of the fleet. . The ordinary mode of sailing was thus : a line-of- battle-ship ahead to lead the van, one or two frigates astern, and a sloop-of-war, and a brig or two to protect the flanks or outside ships, those nearest the land on both sides of the passage. ITot- withstanding all these precautions, the Danish boats would now and then intercept a straggler. One morning a gun-boat came out of a little port on the Zealand side, and endeavored to cut off a brig that had ven- tured a little too near the shore. The flag-ship immediately hauled up to protect her. To witness the firing, I ran my little schooner close under the stern of the St. George, seventy-four. I was forcibly struck with the daring bravery of the gallant Danes, and to see with what apparent nonchalance they re- garded cannon balls. The St. George was obliged to fire six or eight shot before the gun-boat could be induced to haul off and give up the chase. To my surprise, although the shot fell all around her, not one took effect. When the seventy-four drew too near, these brave fellows deliberately took to their oars and returned into port. I was often amused to see the merchant ships, at nightfall, huddle together ; they reminded me of a brood of chickens gathering around the parent hen for protec- tion. We used to anchor at night clustered together ; the men- of-war were stationed all around the fleet, to protect us from the privateers and gun-boats from out of the adjacent ports on both sides of the Great Belt. From the 25th to the 27th the winds continued light from the eastward, with fine weather. We usually anchored at six o'clock in the evening, and lay until daylight, generally in about ten to fifteen fathoms of water — the Jutland shore bear- ing from !N". W. to W. S. W., eight miles distant. From the 27th to the 29th we lay at anchor the greatest part of the time — the wind being ahead. At 6 a. m., on the 29th, all the fleet was ordered to get under way ; it was blowing strong at the time, with a high sea running, and so many ships crowded to- gether that I found it impossible to weigh our anchor, without getting foul of some other vessel; we were therefore obliged to cut the cable and lose the anchor, with the greater part 124 SECOND VOYAGE IK THE SCHOONER ELIZA. of the small bower. A great many vessels were similarly- situated, and obliged to slip and cut, and make sail, to keep up with the convoy. I think, without the least exaggeration, I passed more than fifty buoys on anchors and cables that had been thus left. On the 30th we had fresli breezes at north-west, with squalls of hail and snow ; at 5 p. m., came to anchor in fifteen fathoms of water, where we lay all night. On the 31st we had light winds from the north-west and clear weather. At noon this day the east end of the Island of Ferneron bore S. W. six miles distant ; during the whole day we only made five leagues, when we anchored for the night. On the 1st of November we got through the Belt passage ; I then left the fleet, and made sail alone for Carlsham. At 4 p. m. got abreast of Darshead ; at 5 it bore S.W. eight miles distant ; at 6 p. m. saw Sand Hamsur Hills, on the coast of Sweden, bearing 'N. N. "W"., distant about eight miles — several sail in sight plying to windward ; during the night we had strong gales from the N. E., with much hail and snow, attended with a bad sea. On the 2d we had strong gales from the IsT. E., with violent squalls of hail, sleet and snow; at 4 p. m. the Island of Bornholm bore south by compass, two leagues distant. Strong gales still at N. E. ; handed the topsail, got down the foreyard, and close reefed all the lower sails; violent gales, with snowy, cold weather, with a high cross-sea running through the day. On the 3d we had a continuation of the same N. E. gale with a high sea running. At meridian, saw a bark near us, with her mainmast gone, just above the deck. They showed Swedish colors, and appeared to be in distress. I bore up, and ran under her lee, but could render her no assistance, as it was blowing a severe gale, and a very high sea on. At noon, saw Bornholm, again bearing S. E. by S., three leagues distant. The 4:th commenced with a continuation of the same N. E. gale, and cold, snowy weather. Towards night it moderated, and shifted to the S. S. E., when we made sail and stood in for the Swedish coast. On the 5th it became more moderate ; wind at S. "W"., but still cloudy and dark. At noon, spoke the SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER ELIZA. 125 ship Lyon, of Philadelphia, Captain Bainbridge, * from St. Petersburg, bound to New York. At 2 p. m. saw Bornholm again bearing E. by S., five leagues distant. On the 6th we had light winds and hazy weather. At six in the morning saw the Island of Hano, bearing N. N. W. ; here we got a pilot, and at 2 p. m. came to anchor at Matwick Bay, in six fathoms of water. This is a snug little harbor, sheltered by high rocks on almost every side — a sort of outer port for the town of Carl- sham. ,In an adjacent one, a mile or two from where we lay, I saw lying at anchor an English seventy-four and two frigates. The newly appointed King of Sweden, Bernadotte, was daily expected at Stockholm. As it was uncertain what course of policy he would pursue in the great contest between Eng- land and France, this circumstance had created some difficulty between England and Sweden, and though not absolutely at war, neither were they exactly at peace ; the English ships of war were then lying in the outer ports of Sweden, and had but little open intercourse with the towns and cities. "While we lay here the officers of the English men-of-war frequently went on shore in plain dress, and passed themselves off as American captains and supercargoes. Carlsham is a small town of about 4000 inhabitants ; it has two churches, a hospital, and several manufactories of canvas and woollen goods ; its principal exports are timber, pine boards, pitch and tar. In the afternoon of the day of my arri- val, on the sixth of November, I went to Carlsham in a shore boat, delivered my letter of introduction to Messrs. William Schmid and Co., one of the principal mercantile houses at this place, and inquired for letters from Mr. Moses, but found none. I also endeavored to obtain a cable and anchor for the EKza, but could find none of a suitable size in the town. On my re- turn in the evening of the same day, I found all the crew of my vessel, except the mate and steward, had been taken out of the * Captain William Bainbridge, of the United States Navy, afterwards Commodore Bainbridge, who so gallantly distinguished himself about three years after this period, by the capture and destruction of the British frigate Java, on the coast of Brazil, on the 29th of December, 1813. 126 SECOND VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. scliooner and sent on board the English serenty-four. This ship had sent a midshipman and ten men and had taken possession of my schooner. They had also seized my log-book, and all the papers they could find, and said they expected the vessel and cargo would prove a good prize to their ship. I of course was very much excited and vexed at such arbitrary proceed- ings, and expressed my anger very freely to the midshipman, who happened to be a fine young gentleman. He was mild and collected, and said he hoped I would not blame hvm, that it was no fault of his ; he was only acting in the line of his duty in obeying his superior ofiicer. I saw he was right, and im- mediately apologized for what I had so hastily uttered. After we finally understood each other, he said it was too late to see the captain that night, it being then eight o'clock ; that he had gone on board one of the frigates to a card party, and that I had better delay going to see him until morning. Accordingly at nine o'clock the next morning, I repaired on board the seventy-four, and was told the captain was at break- fast ; I waited an hour, and then sent another message desiring to speak a few words with him ; the answer was, that he was making his toilet and could not be seen. At eleven I saw this bashaw coming out of his cabin ; he appeared to be going for- ward without noticing any body on his way. I was determined to speak to him, and advanced for that purpose ; without cere- mony I told him that my vessel had been taken by his order, and I would thank him if he would have the goodness to ex- plain the reason of my capture. He said, then you are, I sup- pose, the master of the schooner that came into this port yester- day. On my answering in the affirmative he said, I have not time to attend to the cause of your capture myself, but have appointed two of my officers to investigate your business. He then walked away forward, leaving me to look after the two gentlemen appointed to inquire into the legality of my voyage. After waiting on deck about an hour, I was requested to go below into the wardroom, where I found the purser and one of the lieutenants looking over my log-book, and examining and cross-questioning my sailors about the voyage from the time of our leaving New York until we arrived at Carlsham. SECOND VOYAGE m THE SOHOONBK ELIZA. 127 After getting through with the seamen, they then com- menced with me. I told them my story was a short one, and required no lawyer to state it ; that I was an American, that my vessel and cargo were American property, that I came under convoy of an English fleet from Gottenburg through the Belt passage, had there left it, and put into Carlsham for letters, and furthermore that my cargo was a valuable one, and from the lateness of the season I was extremely anxious to sail on the morrow, and should do so the moment they released my vessel and cargo from seizure. On the contrary, if they did not at once give me back my schooner, I would abandon the vessel and cargo to my captors, forthwith repair with my mate to Carlsham, and there protest against their unlawful proceed- ings. The two grave inquisitors then retired into the cabin, and after a long consultation returned and said their captain had decided to release my vessel, and gave an order to recall the midshipman and seamen, and allow me to sail when I thought proper. Thus after having been detained a night and a day without the slightest cause, I was graciously permitted to proceed on my voyage. I deem it unnecessary to comment much on the treatment I received at the hands of the captain of this seventy-four gun ship, who being clothed with a little brief authority, rendered it necessary for us, poor merchant captains, to submit at this time to almost every kind of indig- nity, without any possible means of redress. I have merely given a simple statement of facts, and will leave my country- men and all other neutral nations to judge for themselves, of the propriety of such arbitrary proceedings. Being liberated from seizure in the afternoon of ITovember the Yth, I returned to Carlsham, where I found letters from Mr. Moses, then at Copenhagen, advising me to make the best of my way to Riga, and that he would meet me at that place. The next day, I bought a quantity of fresh provisions, sea stores, &c., while my crew were employed repairing sails and malving other necessary preparations ; the winter season was fast approaching, and I was very anxious to sail. On the 9th I came on board and got ready for sea. I had a poor, inefficient crew, and was destined to encounter a cold, stormy passage up 128 SECOND VOYAGE DT THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. the Baltic, a voyage which should never be undertaken at this late season of the year except from dire necessity. The next day, at ten in the morning we got under way, with a light air from the eastward, and stood out to sea. On the 11th, the wind continued light from the E. S. E., with dark, cloudy weather; at 4 p. m., the island of Hano bore west, two miles distant, several sail in sight standing down the Baltic. Towards night the wind increased to a fresh breeze from the eastward. Still plying to windward ; at six in the evening, saw the Clipper Eocks, bearing E. by N". at a dis- tance of six miles. I find here about one point and a half westerly variation of the compass. During the night the wind continued at E. and E. N. E., with a bad head sea running. On the 12th, the wind blew a fresh gale from the same quarter, with darkjgloomy weather, with sleet and snow ; double reefed the sails and continued to ply to windward ; at noon, saw the Clipper Rocks again, bearing N. by E. two leagues off; during the latter part of the day and throughout the night, we had strong gales from the eastward, with heavy squalls of rain and hail. On the 13th, we had a continuation of the same winds, but with more sea and worse weather. Still plying to the east- ward under a three-reefed mainsail and foresail, violent squalls of hail and snow, with a high sea. At noon, the wind shifted to the northward, when it cleared up a little, and we saw the Prussian coast bearing E. S. E. five leagues distant ; during the remainder of this day and through the night the winds were variable, and the weather cold and stormy with consider- able snow. My sailors were so worn down with fatigue and ex- haustion, that I removed the few that were able to perform their duty into the cabin, and allowed the sick and disabled ones to remain shut up in the forecastle during the remainder of the passage. I daily supplied them with such food and nourish- ment as I could procure, under the circumstances in which we were placed. The 14th commenced with strong gales from the N. E. and much sea ; in the afternoon of this day saw the Prussian coast again, bearing S. S. E. about twelve miles distant ; the wind a little more moderate, but the weather dark and cold, with SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. 129 squalls of snow ; found it necessary to take the main and flying jibs into the cabin to repair. About midnight the wiad shifted to the N. N. W. On the 15th and 16th instants, we had a continuation ot gales from almost every point of the compass, with cold, snowy weather. I continued to beat to the eastward to get into the Gulf of Livonia ; at noon on the 16th, made "Windau Church, bear- ing N. E. twelve miles distant, when the weather cleared up so as to enable me to get an observation of the sun. I found our lat- itude to be 57° 16' north, and the longitude 22° 30' east of London. This was the first time I had been able to get the sun's alti- tude at noon, since we left Carlsham. On the 17th, the weather was a little better ; the wind being at S. E. it became clear and comparatively pleasant. At 1 p. m. got abreast of Windau ; at 4 ditto Lyserct bore south six miles distant. At six p. m. Dage- rot light bore N". IT. E. nine miles distant. I still kept plying to windward to get into the Gulf of Livonia, tacking every two or three hours as we found it necessary. Towards night the weather became dark and gloomy, with strong gales at E. S. E. ; double-reefed the lower sails and handed the topsail. At 6 p. M. sounded in five fathoms of water ; strong gales at E. S. E. during the night with very thick weather. The 1 8th commenced with a continuation of the same easterly gales and snow-squalls, with a short, bad sea running. At 2 p. m. Domeness lights bore S. E. by S. four miles distant. I saw a brig aijd a galliot lying at anchor under the lee of Domeness Point ; we still continued to ply to windward, tacking every two hours. At 8 p. m., Domeness light bore S. W. eight miles distant. During the night we had strong gales at E. S. E. with sleet and snow. The 19th commenced with fresh gales at S. E. with snowy weather ; at 6 in the afternoon, we made Euno light, bearing S. E. three miles distant ;, sounded in four fathoms of water. During the night we had light winds from the southward, and very cold weather ; at this time we had much ice on deck and about the sails and rigging. At 2 A. m. we came to anchor in seven fathoms of water, where we lay until daylight, namely, at 7 o'clock. We then weighed anchor and made sail with a light breeze from the S. S. E., and commenced beating up the 9 130 SECOND VOYAGE US THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. Gulf to gain our port of destination. ITovember the 20th, the first part of this day we had fresh breezes from the S. S. "W"., and foggy weather with a little rain. At 2 o'clock in the after- noon got off the mouth of the river Dwina ; here we took a pilot, and in half an hour afterwards came to anchor at the Boldera, after a passage of nine days from Carlsham, and cer- tainly one of the most boisterous and disagreeable I ever made. Two days after I arrived here, the harbor at the Boldera was entirely closed, so much so, that I walked around my vessel on the ice with perfect safety. In our case, a kind Providence seemed to guide and protect us during the whole of this long and arduous voyage. Had I been two days later, I could not have entered the river Dwina, but should have inevitably been frozen up for the winter, in the Gulf of Livonia. All the papers appertaining to the schooner Eliza and her cargo, were forthwith sent up to St. Petersburg, for investiga- tion. I found lying in this port eight American vessels ; the most of them had arrived here in September and October ; theii papers had all been sent up to St. Petei'sburg for examination. In fact I may say we were all under a kind of sequestration, and unable to discharge or dispose of our cargoes. I learned that a great many American ships had been taken and sent into different places, some to Stralsund and Callemburg and others into ports higher up the Baltic. The ship Atlantic, of ISTew York, left Gottenburg under the same convoy with myself, and after getting through the Belt was captured by a French priva- teer and sent into Dantzic. There were also several other American vessels sent into the same port. The petty officers and crews of these vessels, I was told, were lashed two and two and marched on foot by the French to Antwerp. The captains and supercargoes alone, were allowed to remain he- hind ; so much for French clemency towards neutral nations in 1810, under the iron rale of " Le grand Empereur," and his pretorians. The whole number of American vessels that wintered in Eussia in the winter of 1810, was twenty-three. One in Libau, eight in Eiga, and fourteen in Eevel, and other ports in the Gulf of Finland. Thus after Bonaparte, with his SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEE ELIZA. 131 continental system, had driven trade and commerce in a great measure from almost all Europe, he appeared detei-mined to force Eussia into the same political policy; and when the property of neutral nations was no longer respected in Southern and Western Europe, but on the contrary was seized and con- demned with impunity, it became necessary to go as far as pos- sible from the grasp of his military power, and seek a market in the high northern regions. Even here, among the ice and snow, we did not feel quite safe from his powerful influence ; it therefore became necessary for the Emperor of Kussia to dis- guise his intentions and keep up a show of compliance to the views of France, while preparing for the grand struggle to resist the mighty power of his adversary. These considerations in my mind were, sufficient to allay any unpleasant feelings growing out of the long delay of getting our papers from St. Petersburg. Here, it was easy to see that a great storm was gathering in the political atmosphere. All this winter, the Russians were sledg- ing down cannon from the interior to the frontier towns, and making every preparation for the conflict, with as little noise and bustle as possible. "When I reflect on the character and conduct of Bonaparte at this period, it forcibly reminds me of Haman of old, when he exclaimed, " All this availeth me nothing, so long as I see Mordecai, the Jew, sitting at the king's gate." Bonapai'te probably said to himself. What advantage have I gained in the conquest of Europe, except I can compel Alexander to comply with my measures and policy, and be subject to my dictation ; I will therefore convince him that my armies are invincible, and will soon humble his pride ; but before I strike the final blow, I will endeavor to delude him by my adroit diplomacy. This he forthwith tried to accomplish. He sent to the court of St. Petersburg one of his most talented and cunning diplomatic men, in the person of Marshal Caulaincourt, to deceive and throw him off his guard with respect to his real intentions. He also sent to beguile and amuse him the best dramatic actors and actresses in France, and when he found that stratagem and in- trigue did not accomplish his purpose, he decided on taking such a powerful army as should enable him to crush his enemy 132 SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEK ELKA. in one campaign. But now mark the signal failure of the plans of this ambitious man, this spoiled child of Fortune, who would not take the advice of his old marshals and true friends to win- ter in Poland, and then open the campaign early in the spring. No, his haughty ambition and thirst for conquest impelled him to rush blindly on to his own ruin. "We Americans, had every reason to rejoice that we had at this time the talented and accomplished John Quincy Adams, for our ambassador at the Court of St. Petersburg. He was always watchful for the interest and honor of his country, and ever ready to assist his countrymen at home and abroad. I have no doubt he was essentially useful in our commercial rela- tions with Kussia at this trying period. I felt grateful to him during his life, and will, so long as I live, cherish and revere his memory. Boldera is a small town about eight or nine miles below Kiga, near the mouth of the Dwina, and is in fact the port of Kiga. At this place there were many cheap houses, built ex- pressly to rent to the ship-masters who winter here, to shelter their mates and crews from the severity of this climate, it being always too cold to live on shipboard. These houses were in a line at a convenient distance from each other ; and each Ameri- can captain in port hired one for his mates and seamen, at a rent of ten dollars per month. They were tolerably well built, and as firewood was plenty and cheap, were comfortable residences for the winter. We unbent our sails, stripped the masts of all the rigging, and in a warm and comfortable room by the side of a large fire, my mate and sailors overhauled the rigging, re- paired all the old, and made an entire new suit of sails during the winter. The sailors gave names to these houses according to their own fancy, sometimes after their ship or vessel ; others were called New York, Boston, or Salem, corresponding to the places where they belonged. After the labor of the day, they would visit their respective neighbors at New York, Boston or Salem, and as there was no want of female society among the lower classes, balls and dances were very frequent. The mates and petty officers also enjoyed the society of each other, and in this manner contrived to spend their time pleasantly during the SECOND VOTA'GB Df THE 80H00NEK ELIZA. 133 long, cold evenings in this dreary climate. During the winter, provisions and breadstuffs were very cheap, so that we were able to support our crews at a very moderate expense. The peasants brought to this city in sledges, from Livonia and Po- land, all kinds of wild game and slaughtered domestic animals, frozen to such a degree, that if necessary they could be kept for months. The most of these articles were, of course, badly dress- ed, and had sometimes a disgusting appearance, having been killed and brought to market by these rude and half savage people — for example, the hogs had their throats cut and the hair partly singed off, but when our sailors had scalded and re- dressed them, they were good and wholesome food. The cap- tains and supercargoes resided in Riga. I hired very comfort- able apartments in company with Captain "William Col well, of the ship Yenus of Boston, at a reasonable rate. We also hired a man with a horse and sleigh to attend us by night and day, at the low rate of eight dollars per month ; and as the river was frozen some two or three feet thick, there was an excellent road for sleighs on the ice from the town to the ships at the Boldera, so that in a very short time we could visit our vessels whenever it became necessary. About the first of December, Mr. Moses arrived here from Copenhagen, and appointed as our commission house or com- mercial agfents, Messrs. Joach, Ebel, Schmidt & Co. He then proceeded to St. Petersburg to get the vessel and cargo clear of sec[uestration, and also to dispose of our merchandise. After a delay of seven or eight weeks, the government at St. Petersburg allowed us to discharge. All our goods were taken from the vessel into one-horse sledges, transported directly to the custom- house, and from there, after being inspected, forwarded to St. Petersburg and other large towns in the interior. The sugars and other articles composing our cargo, were sold at the cap- ital at very high prices. The expense for transporting goods over this extensive em- pire in the winter season, was extremely low ; I will not quote prices, for fear of making some mistake, but will state the com- mon mode of conveying goods to and from this city to St. Peters- burg and Moscow. Thus, twenty or thirty one-horse sledges 134r SECOND VOTAGE IN THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. are loaded and secured, when one man and a boy take charge of the whole caravan ; the man rides and drives the leading horse, all the others follow in a direct line, while the boy brings up the rear. They follow one another by night and day ; the drivers clothed in sheepskins and nestled in straw. They traverse the wide and wild regions of this vast empire with perfect safety ; the price of horned cattle and horses is extremely low, while the wages of the peasants and working classes are merely nominal ; consequently, the transportation of goods from place to place, even at a great distance, must be very reasonable. Eiga is the capital city of the province of Livonia, and lies on the right bank of the river Dwina, about nine miles from its mouth, in lat. 56° 57' ]Sr., long. 24° 4' E. It contains about 60,000 inhabitants including the garrison, which generally numbers about eight or ten thousand. It is a very ancient town, and was formerly strongly fortified. The walls around the old city are still in good repair, but its inhabitants have so increased and spread around, that the suburbs are more extensive and contain more souls than the city itself. It is a great place for trade and com- merce. There are from 1,000 to 1,500 ships entered and cleared at this place annually ; their principal exports are manufactured goods from Moscow ; wheat, flax, tallow, flaxseed, hemp and iron, besides timber, masts, deal boards and hides, brought down the river from Poland. Its public buildings are many of them large and well con- structed ; the cathedral is very ancient, its tower is four hundred and forty feet in height, from which there is a inagnificent view of the surrounding country. The town house, exchange and arsenal are built of massive stone, and are substantial, and well adapted to this climate. There is also a tolerable theatre, which, in the winter, is very well supported. The principal merchants are Germans ; the shopkeepers and petty dealers generally Kussians, and though the language of the country is Euss, still, G-erman, English, and French are spoken by all the upper or educated classes. The Eigarians may be justly called a gay, social peo- ple ; during the winter months they have frequent supper parties, masked and fancy balls, and contrive in this way to beguile their long and dreary winters. SECOTID VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER ELIZA. 135 Althougli the cold is intense, there appears to be little or no suffering ; their houses are well adapted to the climate, be- ing thick and strong, with double windows, to keep out the frost. Firewood is abundant and cheap in this part of Eussia, so that all are enabled to partake of this blessing in a greater or less degree. An individual in this country is generally recog- nized, that is to say, his rank and standing in society acknowl- edged, by the fineness of his furs ; for example, the emperor and the higher order of nobility are wrapped in sable, ermine, and other costly furs, and so the quality and price gradually de- scend through all classes, even down to the poor serf or com- mon peasant, who is clothed in sheepskin. In Holland, a per- son is known by the size of his pipe ; for instance, a burgomaster has a large silver-mounted pipe, while the poorer classes are contented with small ones of less value. The winters in this part of Eussia are altogether different from those in !N"ew York and the northern States, where they are extremely variable, sometimes very cold, and others com- paratively mild — subject to violent storms, and inconstant, changeable weather; thus, to-day the sleighing may be very good, and to-morrow the snow all melted, so that the weather is ever varying. Not so in this region. When the winter fair- ly sets in, which is generally about the middle of November, the ground is soon covered with snow to the depth of two or three feet, and though the air is clear, cold and bracing, it is still easy to respire. The Fahrenheit thermometer is generally down to zero, and often falls eighteen or twenty degrees below it ; the rivers are frozen to the thickness of three or four feet, and remain so during the whole of the winter. There are no storms or violent gales, the sky is clear, and the heavenly bodies are bright and dazzling. The days are short, and generally whirled away in business or pleasure, and in preparing for more active employment at the opening of the spring. I was told that it was a standing order of the government to remove the sentries from all military posts, when the thermometer was as low as eighteen degrees ; anterior to this regulation, sentinels were sometimes found frozen to death, standing bolt upright at their posts. 136 SECOND' VOYAGE JS THE SOHOONEE ELIZA. To strangers and people of distinction, the elite of Eiga are very hospitable. During the greater part of the winter, there were here eight or ten American captains and supercargoes. We were generally social and friendly, giving occasionally supper and whist parties ; these were pleasant and not expen- sive meetings. Some few, however, of the supercargoes, prefer- red visiting the families of the rich merchants, where, I am sor- ry to say, in some of them gambling was introduced, and some- times the parties would play very deep, and even the ladies would not refuse to join in this dangerous practice, so destruc- tive to good morals. One of our number, the supercargo of the ship v., a handsome young gentleman of about twenty-two years of age, became very fond of betting and playing, and for seve- ral evenings was very successful, often boasting how many thou- sand rubles he had gained the last night, and appeared very much elated with his success. I frequently remonstrated with him on the subject, and told him of his youth, inexperience, and of the sad consequences of this alluring passion, which had ru- ined thousands older than himself; his reply was, "Although I am young, I still know how to govern and take care of myself." Some weeks after this the young man became sullen and very low-spirited, and would often remark that life was not worth possessing, and that he had rather die than live. I feared that all was not right with him, and endeavored to divert his mind from dwelling on the dark side of life, but all to ho purpose ; he grew more discontented with himself, and every body else, and iinally shut himself up in his own room, and with a pistol blew out his brains. After this melancholy catastrophe, it was found that he had gambled away the greater part of the cargo intrust- ed to his management. I have entered minutely into this sad story, in hopes that if it should ever meet the eyes of young gentlemen, it may serve as a warning to them to avoid the bane- ful practice of gaming. In the course of the winter there was a. similar case of sui- cide in this city. A young German gentleman, cashier to one of the principal mercantile houses, had taken a considerable sum of his employer's money ; the merchant, though defrauded by the young man, was persuaded, through the anxious solicita- SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. 137 tions of his mother, to retain him in his counting office. Though he could no longer trust him in charge of the cash, still, to gi-atify her, he was willing to retain him in his employ in a less responsible situation. The young gentleman remained a few weeks in a subordinate capacity, but was so wounded and mor- tified at the loss ,of reputation, that he soon put an end to his heretofore valuable life. I knew him personally, and record with deep regret his untimely end, caused by the abominable vice of gambling. He was an amiable young man, and had a mother and two sisters almost entirely dependent upon him for support. He had many influential friends, and bore an excel- lent character, until led imperceptibly into the habit of gam- bling, not indeed at gaming-houses, among the low and aban- doned, but with gentlemen and ladies. I wish not to be too severe against the elite of this hospitable city, and if I have- been wrongly informed on the subject, I hope it will not be attributed to any ill-will or pique against them ; but if I am right, I trust, ere this, there has been a radical reform, and that the respectable part of the community have set their faces against that terrible vice, which leads to every moral and religious delinquency. 1 believe that, with the exception of the field of battle, there is nothing so exciting or seducing as the gaming-table. Towards the latter part of February we began to ballast the EUza with a quantity of iron in bars, and eighty casks of tallow, each containing about nine hundred pounds, net weight; Ave also took on board some few tons of hemp, and got ready to re- ceive the manufactured goods whenever they should arrive from St. Petersburg. During my stay here, I disposed of all my private adventure in this city, except about forty boxes of Havana segars, which I sent by land to Libau, where they were sold at a great profit. I had much leisure time, and was en- abled to select and purchase manufactured articles, such as ■ linens, duck, etc., etc., at very reasonable prices. The amount thus invested in goods of different descriptions, at sailing, was fifteen hundred dollars. My friend, Mr. J. M., remained at St. Petersburg nearly all the winter, where he purchased the greater part of our return cargo, which consisted principally of 138 SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONBE ELIZA. sheetings, drillings, diapers, canvas, ravens duck, etc., etc., all packed up in bales with many coverings of cloth and mats to secure them against damage from exposure on the road. Through the months of March and April, as the goods arrived, they were sent on board and stowed away. The river began to break up about the 10th of April, and several ships arrived on the 24th. I was informed by the inhabitants of Kiga, that the river and harbor at Boldera were open much earlier than usual ; commonly there were no arrivals until the middle of May, and often as late as the first of June. We finished loading the Eliza on the fifteenth of May, settled all our bills, and got ready for sea. Our little schooner was in fine order, with an abundance of new rigging, and an entire new suit of sails. I understood from Mr. Moses, that the whole cost of our return cargo was $45,000. After lying in this port six months and four days, we sailed out of the Dwina on the morning of the 25th of May, 1811, bound to New York. We soon discharged our pilot and stood off shore, with light, variable winds and clear, pleasant weather. Latitude by observation at meridian, 57° 21' north. In two days after leaving Riga, I got out of the Gulf of Livonia and steered down the Baltic^ with light, variable winds and very fine weather. It is delightful to navigate this sea in the long days of summer, when the sun does not leave the hori- zon until after nine o'clock, and when the twilight continues so long and bright, that it is not dif&cult to read a book of ordi- nary sized type at midnight. Strong gales at this season of the year are of rare occurrence, consequently the sea is generally smooth and tranquil. After getting out of the Gulf of Livonia, I ran over to the Swedish coast, to avoid meeting French or Danish privateers, that had in some instances ventured out and made short cruises from Dantzic, and other ports in Prussia. On the 31st of May, I passed near a fleet of about fifty sail of merchant ships, standing up the Baltic, under convo}' of a British frigate and two sloops-of-war. June 1st, at noon, came to anchor at Hano, in eleven fathoms of water, after a pleasant passage of five days from Kiga. Hano SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEE ELIZA. 139 is a small island on the coast of Sweden, in the neighborhood of Carlsham ; between it and the main land there is good, safe anchorage — the entrance being open and of easy access. These circumstances, and its favorable position, make it a great rendez- vous for the English men-of-war ; here they lie until a sufficient number of merchant ships have collected, when the admiral sends a frigate or two to convoy them through the Belt and Cat- tegat to Gottenburg. When I arrived, I found about twenty sail waiting convoy, and after lying here eight days, the number had augmented to about fifty. On the 9th of June we left Hano, under the protection of a frigate and two sloops-of-war, and soon got into the Great Belt, where we saw lying at anchor the Yigo seventy-four, Admiral Dixon, and several frigates and sloops-of-war. At this season of the year, men-of-war can anchor with perfect safety in almost any part of this passage. On the 10th of June an American captain gave me a list of twenty sail of American ships and vessels lying in Gottenburg and the Great Belt, all bound to St. Petersburg and other parts of the Gulf of Finland. On the 10th, in the afternoon, the wind being light, we came to anchor in the Bftlt, where I was boarded by the boats of the Vigo. I sold to the officers of this ship a quantity of Kussian linen, diaper, etc. They were gen- tlemanly men, and paid liberally for all they purchased. At three o'clock in the morning a light breeze sprung up from the southward, and we got under way. We met with light winds and calms for several days, and made but slow progress, lying by at night, when the winds were contrary, and were thus de- tained until the ITth of June, when we arrived at the outer harbor of Gottenburg, after a passage of eight days. Here we filled up our water-casks, replenished our sea-stores, firewood, etc., and after waiting three days for a fair wind, left this port on the 21st for home. On the 23d, at five a. m., saw the E"aze of l^orway, bearing north twelve leagues distant — several sail in sight ; light winds from the S. E., and fine weather. Latitude, by observation at noon^ 57° 42' IsT. On the 25th, at six o'clock in the morning, made North Kon- aldsha, one of the Orkney Islands, bearing N. IT. W. four miles distant; at the same time saw the light-house on Sanda Island, 140 SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE ELIZA. bearing S. "W. one league. At meridian, Mouldhead on Papa Westra Island, bore south thirteen miles distant. Latitude by observation 59° 3i' north ; here the variation of the compass is about two and three-fourths points westerly. "We were now only three days from Gottenburg, and had made good progress on our passage ; before night we got to the westward of these islands, and were once more on the broad Atlantic. Nothing remarkable occurred during a period of nine days ; from this date we had light winds and fine weather until the ith. of July, when we had a strong gale from the S. W. At two A. m. hove to under a three-reefed foresail ; at four a. m. pitched away the jib-boom in the wake of the cap ; strong gales with a high sea running during the day. "We had unbent the main-jib to re- pair it ; at ten in the morning the wind moderated a little, and the sea was not quite so high as it had been during the night. At this time the mate and two men were bending the main- jib, when the vessel gave a violent pitch and washed one of them off the bowsprit ; he was an ordinary seaman by the name of Thomas Chatterton ; instantly a coil of rope was thrown over his head, but tc^ no purpose, he was unable to grasp it. We immediately got out the boat though a high sea was running, and the poor fellow was not twenty yards from the bows of the schooner; still he sunk to rise no more before the boat coftld reach him. It was indeed a painful sight to see a fellow-crea- ture perish so near the vessel, without being able to save him. Here is a striking proof of the necessity of learning to swim in early life ; had this man been able to swim, he would in all human probability have been saved. This accident occurred in latitude 56° 2' N"., longitude 23° 40' W. On the 14th of July, at midnight, while blowing a strong gale at IST. N. "W., we passed through a fleet of ships standing to the eastward ; from this day until the 30th instant, we generally had contrary winds, and made but slow progress getting to the westward. At six o'clock in the morning, on the 30th of July, we fell in with a fleet of eighty sail of merchant ships from Jamaica bound to England, under convoy of two men-of-war brigs; from one of them a boat was sent on board our vessel for information from Europe. From this period nothing occurred SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER ELIZA. 141 worthy of remark until we arrived at ISew York, on the 9th of August, after a passage of forty-nine days from Gottenburg.. I was attached to the schooner Eliza on this voyage to Kussia, from the 9th of August, 1810, to the 15th of August, 1811, being a period of twelve months and six days. 1 made a very good voyage for my owners, and we settled all our accounts to our mutual satisfaction. I am happy to add that I always found Messrs. Isaac Moses & Sons, honest, honorable merchants, and during a period of eighteen months, that I sailed in their em- ployment, we never had the slightest misunderstanding. After the schooner Eliza was discharged, she was sold to Messrs. G. G. & S. Howland. These gentlemen, through my recommenda- tion, gave the command of her to Mr. Stephen Trowbridge, who had been my mate for the last two years. She was soon loaded and dispatched to some port in Brazil. I returned home to my native place, where I found my good mother and sister well, and was rejoiced to meet them again after so long an absence. I had now acquired a fair competency, and was enabled to sup- port them comfortably, and keep my younger brothers at the best school in the town. Here I remained a few weeks with my family, when my friend and former employer, Archibald Gracie, Esq., wrote for me to return to IS'ew Toi'k. He informed me he was about purchasing a new ship in Philadelphia, and if agreeable to my wishes, would give me the command of her on a voyage to Lis- bon. I thanked him for the offer, and forthwith the business was settled. I knew him too well to say a single word on the subject of wages or emolument ; I preferred leaving the terms with him, for he always allowed me better pay than I should have dared to ask. I am now happy to speak of this excellent man as I have ever found him, and to give my feeble testimony to his generous and noble qualities. A more honest, kind and benevolent man, never drew the breath of life ; open-hearted- ness and candor were the leading traits of his character. As a merchant, he had but few equals; he despised' all cunning and duplicity, and was in every sense a just and good man. For many years his house was the seat of a generous hospitality, and the poor never went away empty from his door. He was in- 142 SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEE ELIZA. deed a father to me, for when a mere boy I was mate of his vessels, and when old enough to command, he gave me charge of his ship Virginia, and was now about to intrust me with a valuable new ship and cargo. I have, from time to time, in my narrative spoken of the treatment of neutral nations by England and Fi-ance, and of the difficulty of prosecuting a voyage from the United States to any part of the world without molestation and frequent capture. On the one hand, Bonaparte was overrunning the continent of Europe, and on the other, England claiming the dominion of the sea ; in line, both these great powers appeared determined to destroy all neutral rights, and force the other nations of the earth to take part in their quarrels. With respect to the United States, there was no doubt of the injuries and persecutions we had received from both of these belligerent powers ; the only question was, which of the two has done us the greatest wrong, and treated us with the greatest indignity and contempt ? The French robbed us, but still treated us politely, while the Eng- lish affected to despise us, and some of their impudent news- papers asserted that one discharge of gunpowder in anger, would drive us all off the ocean. We had borne persecution and insult so long, that in Europe it was generally said, and became almost a by-word, that the Americans had no national pride or char- acter, and for the sake of gain, would sacrifice every principle of honor. The peculiar position in which we were placed with regard to England and France, engendered a malignant and bitter party feeling throughout the whole of the United States. The 'New Englanders accused the South and West of being partial to France, while the South called their political oppo- nents partisans of England. Thus by these feuds and civil dis- sentions, the power of the government was in a measure par- alyzed : still, something must be done, and finally it was narrowed down to this simple question : " Shall we destroy our ships and stay at home, like the Chinese, or assert our rights at the cannon's mouth ? " It was, therefore, evident to every in- telligent mind, that war was unavoidable, and must soon come. CHAPTER XVIII. FIRST VOYAGE IN THE SHIP AMERICA, FROM PHILADELPHIA TO LISBON, AND BACK TO NEW YORK, IN THE YEARS 1811 AND 1812. I LEFT New York for Philadelphia, on the 29th of September. At this time there was no public conveyance, all the way by land, except the stage-coach. I recollect the fare was eight dollars and a half, and the charge for two meals on the road, brought the expense of going from New York to Phila- delphia, to about ten dollars. On my arrival at that city, I called, agreeably to my instructions, on Messrs. "Welling & Francis, the friends and agents of Messrs. Archibald Gracie & Sons. They immediately placed me in command of the America. I found her an excellently built ship, burden 525 tons, quite new, but requiring new sails, boats, running rig- ging, etc., etc. ; and as she had been laid up from the time she was launched, ot course required a thorough calking. She was built of the best materials, and considered at this time as good a ship as belonged to the port of Philadelphia. I lost no time in ordering new sails, boats, etc. I employed carpenters and calkers, and in the course of eight or ten days commenced loading, and on the 23d of October we linished. Our cargo consisted of 5,382 barrels of flour, with white-oak staves for dunnage. The cargo of the America at this period was considered enormously large. Our crew was composed of two mates, a carpenter, cook, and steward, with sixteen men and boys before the mast, exclusive of myself and the supercargo— rthe whole number being twenty- two souls. 144: FIEST VOYAGE IN THE SHIP AMERICA. We had much trouble in getting the seamen on board. Many of them being intoxicated, and maddened with liquor, thej were very riotous and abusive to the officers, and also to the pilot, who, agreeably to my orders, took charge of the ship on the 1st of ISTovember, to proceed down to Eeedy Island. On their way down, one of the men jumped over- board, and would inevitably have been lost, but for the noble conduct of the second mate, who leaped into the river and saved him from drowning. After much trouble and diffi- culty, they finally got safe down to the island. The next day, Mr. Augustus Fleming (the supercargo) and myself, went by land to Eeedy Island, and there joined the ship. We found the crew in a very mutinous state ; they had refused to obey the officers, and swore they would not weigh the anchor with- out more men. I consulted with my supercargo and officers for a few moments, and asked them whether they would stand by me, and support my authority. They all agreed to do so, and commenced arming themselves, Mr. Fleming and myself with pistols, the carpenter (a powerful man) with a huge broad-axe, the mates, pilot, steward and boys with crowbars, clubs, etc., and thus the quarter-deck was arrayed against the forecastle. We marched forward, myself at the head ; we found them all seated on the forecastle and windlass, when I addressed the two ringleaders, and asked them the cause of their disobedience ; they said we were two men short, and that was the reason of their refusing to obey. I told them that I was the best judge of the number of men the ship required, and instantly ordered them to take the hand- spikes and heave up the anchor. It was now evident that one or the other party must yield, or an immediate conflict would ensue. They waited about a minute for a reply, when looking upon us, and then upon themselves, the ringleader exclaimed, " Come, boys, let us give three cheers for the America and her captain, and then go to work." This was done with enthu- siasm ; they then manned the windlass, hove up the anchor with alacrity, and made sail on the ship in good earnest. After she was fairly under way, I ordered the mates to go down into the forecastle and throw overboard all the liquor they FIRST VOYAGE IN THE SHIP AMERICA. 146 could find. This was done without any resistance, and after these men became sober, they proved to be an excellent crew, and gave me no further trouble during the whole voyage. This case and many similar ones have convinced me that alcohol is the bane of all peace and concord, and should, if possible, be banished from the earth, as the most deadly enemy of the hu- man race. We ran down the bay in company with the ships Rebecca Sims and China Packet, the former bound to Lisbon, and the latter to Gibraltar, and although the America was deep, and drew eighteen and a half feet of water, she outsailed them both. When nearly abreast of Cape Henlopen, on the ith of November, I imprudently discharged the pilot, and soon after he left us, the ship struck on one of the outer shoals several times, very severely. I immediately took in all the after sails, and as we had a strong breeze from the IS". !N". W., and the tide was rising, she only grounded for a few minutes, and was soon afloat again. We had a brisk and favorable breeze, and soon lost sight of the land. I have minutely dwelt on my ship's tak- ing the ground, that it may be a warning to all young captains, who may chance to read this narrative, against committing the same error, that is to say, in discharging their pilots too soon. We generally had favorable winds and good weather until we made the Island of Corvo, on the ITth. From this time un- til the 8th of December, we had a continuation of boisterous gales and very bad weather until we arrived at Lisbon, on the 9th of the same month, after a long passage of thirty-eight days. I found the ships that left New York and Philadelphia about the time I sailed, had had long passages as well as myself; the new ship Phoenix had forty days from Philadelphia, and the Eebecca Sims had not yet arrived. We met with an excellent market for our cargo of flour, which cost nine dollars per barrel and brought here flfteen. Mr. Fleming employed H. T. Sampayo, Esq., at this place, to dispose of it, and to transact all the business connected with the ship. Our flour was all landed in good order in about a fortnight. I will here take occasion to sa;;^, that my supercargo, Augustus Fleming, Esq., of New York, was an excellent young man. He was brave, generous, intelligent and confiding, and when he an- 10 146 FIRST VOYAGE IN THE SHIP AMEEIOA. nounced his intention to remain in Europe, and not return in the ship, I received the intelligence with sincere regret, for I felt confident that we could have sailed around the world together, without the slightest disagreement. We soon ballasted the ship with sand, and sailed from Lis- hon on the 8th of January, bound for 'New York. I ran off the coast of Portugal with a fine fair wind and good weather, and met with nothing worth recording during this passage. "We arrived at New York on the 10th of February, 1812, thirty-three days from Lisbon, thus making the entire voyage from Phila- delphia to Lisbon and back to l^ew York, in three and a half months, and I am happy to add, to the satisfaction of my own- ers and all others interested in the voyage. I was also success- ful, my employers having allowed me the privilege of one hun- dred barrels of flour, liberal wages and other perquisites. CHAPTER XIX. SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SHIP AMERICA, FROM NEW YORK TO LISBON, AND BACK TO NEW YORK, IN THE YEAR 1812. I HAD made the last voyage in this ship on a single bottom, she being quite new. It was the desire of the owners to have her coppered and dispatched on another voyage to Lisbon, as soon as possible. ISTo time was therefore lost in discharging the bal- last and coppering the ship. My presence was necessary, to superintend the fitting and loading of the America ; consequent- ly I had no leisure to visit my home in Connecticut. After the necessary repairs were completed, we took on board an entire cargo of 3,000 barrels of flour, and 12,000 bushels of corn. I shipped an entire new crew of oflicers and seamen. The name of my chief mate was Charles M. Hanstrom ; he was a very re- ligious man — a Swede by birth — somewhat advanced in life, but still an efficient, good officer, and bore an excellent character. Thus manned and equipped, we sailed from New York on the 29th of March — having been in port but forty-six days. We had a pleasant run oflf the coast, and a fair prospect of making a quick passage ; but after getting as far east as the "Western Islands, had contrary and baffling winds, which impeded our progress, and made our passage rather long, so that we did not arrive at Lisbon until the 4th of May, thirty-six days from ISTew York. But what in our case was very remarkable, was that our long passage proved of vast advantage to my owners ; for had we arrived a fortnight sooner, our cargo would probably have been sold at low prices ; but, as it happened, it was disposed of 148 SECOND VOYAGE m THE SHIP AMEEICA. at an enormous profit, owing to tlie United States gOTernment having laid an embargo on all ships and vessels in the United States, on the 3d of April— three days after we left ISTew York. This act was preparatory to a declaration of war against Great Britain, which occurred on the 18th of June, 1812. This, of course, augmented the price of all kinds of provisions and breadstuffs ; so that my entire cargo sold at an immense profit. The flour brought $20 per barrel, and the Indian corn $3 the bushel. This is not the first time in my life that my short- sighted ingratitude evinced itself against a beneficent Provi- dence ; for, during the passage, I often repined at my hard fate in being so long detained by contrary winds. After the cargo was discharged, we ballasted the ship, and got ready for sea. Our consignee, H. T. Sampayo, Esq., was at "a loss what to do with the ships belonging to Messrs. Gracie & Sons, which were three in number, besides a little schooner called the John and George, Captain Isaacs. This little vessel was dispatched on the 1st of June for IsTew York. By Captain Isaacs I sent a piece of linen, and some other small articles, as presents to my sister, which unfortunately never arrived — Cap- tain I. having been captured by the English on his homeward passage, and sent into Halifax; there his little schooner and every thing on board was condemned. Mr. Sampayo became daily more and more anxious and uneasy about Messrs. Gracie & Sons' ships. To lay them up here upon expense, would be ruinous, and to send them home, was a very responsible measure for him to take upon himself. The last news from the United States was, that our government had laid an embargo on all American ships and vessels. How long it would continue, no one could say, or what would be the next step our government would take. Our situation was therefore surrounded by diffi- culties on every side ; but, after a few weeks' deliberation, it was finally decided to remit all the funds belonging to Messrs. Gracie to London, and send the ships home in ballast the first fair wind. There were many other American ships here, simi- larly situated; which circumstance created much bustle and anxiety to get away. Many bets were made by the American \ SECOND VOYAGE m THE SHIP AMEEICA. 149 captains and supercargoes, on the passages of their respective ships. Some of my countrymen imagined there would be no war ; others thought they would have sufiEicient time to get home be- fore it would be declared. My own opinion was, however, that it was inevitable. I accordingly decided not to speak any thing, if I could avoid it, and to keep a little out of the general track of homeward-bound ships. At length, on the morning of the 14th of June, we all sailed out of the port of Lisbon, bound to New Yoi-k : the Eliza Gracie, Captain Eodgers ; the Oronoko, Captain J. Eichards ; and the America, myself master ; besides several other Amei'ican ships, in company with us, all bound to the United States. At the time of sailing, we had a fine, fresh breeze from the IT. E., and clear, pleasant weather. During the first day out, there was no material difference in the sailing of our three ships ; we all pushed to the westward, taking about the same course. At nightfall, I edged the ship off a couple of points to the southward, in order to get clear of the fieet — wish- ing to pursue my destiny alone, whether for weal or woe — and at daylight the next morning there was nothing in sight. In consequence of the great competition to make the shortest passage, I promised each of my officers a handsome present, as an inducement to be watchful and vigilant ; to the chief mate a new suit of clothes, if we beat the other ships, and to the second mate a corresponding reward. We had favorable winds for several days, and proceeded rapidly on our course, iintil we reached latitude 40° 10' N., longitude 32° W. — that is to say, a little west of the "Western Islands. There we met with light airs and calms, which continued for five consecutive days, and during that time we did not make fifty miles distance. It was a severe trial to me to lie day after day almost in the same po- sition, with the sea as smooth as a mirror, expecting to be beaten by the entire fleet, offend my owners, and perhaps lose my com- mand, on my return to New York. In this anxious state of mind, I used often to exclaim against my hard fate. My pious old mate had always the same mild answer to make to all my complaints—" You may rely upon it, Captain C, that it is all for the best ; for I have ever found it so. Do not, therefore. 150 SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SHIP' AMEBIC A. fi'et or complain ; God orders every thing in wisdom, and it will eventually be for our good." It was, to me, strange phi- losophy, that it would be for my interest to be beaten by the other ships. At the expiration of five days, however, we took a fine breeze from the southward, and made good progress to the westward. I now steered for Nantucket south shoal, where I got soundings and a good lunar observation, and thus ascertained the exact position of the ship, and here I also spoke a small schooner, bound to the eastward. The captain of this vessel informed me that war existed between England and the United States, and that it had been declared on the 18th of June. It was now the 15th of July. I therefore decided to run at once for Montauk Point, and pass through Long Island Sound. This was in the morning, and a strong breeze blowing from the S. E. I accord- ingly got near Montauk Light about midnight, when it became nearly calm, and soon after a light breeze sprung up to the northward, directly off the land. I therefore concluded it would be dangerous to be in this position at daylight ; for if there should be any cruisers off the Point, I should inevitably be taken. Consequently, I steered close in with the Southampton beach, in eight or nine fathoms of water, and at daylight saw nothing except a few small craft in shore. I had no cargo or money on board, except two thousand Spanish dollars, belong- ing to myself — the avails of my own private adventure. This specie I put into small bags, and got one of the boats ready, with a select crew, to start for the shore at a moment's warning. For this service, I appointed Mr. William Fitch, my second mate — a worthy, confidential young man, whom I could trust, with perfect safety, to manage this business. I then pointed out our danger to the officers and men, and also the course I meant to pursue. My plan was, if we met with an English cruiser, and could not avoid capture, to run the ship on shore, set fire to her, and then escape to the land in the two remaining boats. During the whole of this day we had light, variable winds and fine weather. "We steered along shore, in eight or nine fathoms of water, and in the afternoon passed near Fire Island, SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SHIP AMERICA. 151 where vre boarded a sloop, laden with wood, but, to our disap- pointment, could get no positive information about the war, or whether there were any British cruisers ofi" Sandy Hook. At 10 p. M. we got close in with the Hook, where we took a pilot, and soon learned that nothing had been heard of the Eliza Gra- cie or the Oronoko. The next morning, July 17th, we got safe up to New York, rejoiced at our good fortune in having escaped the enemy. About a week after our arrival we heard, with re- gret, that the Oronoko and Eliza Gracie had both been taken by Admiral Sawyer's fleet. They sent the Oronoko into Hali- fax, and burned the Eliza Gracie. Mr. Hanstrom, my good old mate, continued to say, that every thing had come right, and that the five days calm weather had saved us from capture. Upon examining the track taken by the Eliza Gracie and Oronoko, it appeared that they passed but about fifty or sixty miles to the northward of us — thus avoiding the calm — and soon fell in with the English fleet. After paying off the officers and men, I went home to Con- necticut for a few weeks, and then returned to New York. The times were bad for commerce ; many merchant ships had been taken by the enemy, and great numbers laid up ; some of them had been removed up the North Eiver as far as Hudson, and others dismantled and laid up here. Although painful to see our ships rotting alongside the wharves, still, in my opinion, it was better and more patriotic than to submit any longer to tyrannical abuse and oppression. The recent heavy losses ex- perienced by my owners were very discouraging, and on the 30th of July Mr. Gracie gave me orders to transport the Amer- ica up town, there dismantle and lay her up. I complied with his request, and having appointed a ship-keeper, again returned to the home of my mother. About the twentieth of August, while in Milford, we received the joyful news of the capture and destruction of the British frigate Guerriere, Captain Dacres, by the United States frigate Constitution, under the command of Captain Isaac Hull. This brilliant action electrified the whole country, and was received as a joyous foreboding of good things to come. This was the commencement of fair and open-handed 152 SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SHIP AMERICA. combat, and had no mixture of the crouching Leopard in its na- ture ; it was brilliant, it was glorious ! And here I cannot refrain from giving the following extract from a part of John 0. Calhoun's speech, addressed (June 3d, 1812) to Congress : " Before I proceed to answer the gentleman from Massachu- setts, particularly, let me call the atl^ntion of the House to one circumstance ; that is, that almost the whole of his arguments consisted of an enumeration of evils always incident to war, however just and necessary; and that, if they have any force, it is calculated to produce unqualified submission to every spe- cies of insult and injury. I do not feel myself bound to answer arguments of the above description, and if I should touch on them, it will only be incidentally, and not for the purpose of serious refutation. The first argument of the gentleman which I shall notice, is the unprepared state of the country. "Whatever weight this argument might have in a question of immediate war, it surely has little in that of preparation for it. If our country is unprepared, let us remedy the evil as soon as possi- ble. Let the gentleman submit his plan ; and, if a reasonable one, I doubt not it will be supported by the House. But, sir, let us admit the fact and the whole force of the argument, I ask whose is the fault ? Who has been a member for many years past, and has seen the defenceless state of his country even near home, under his own eyes, without a single endeavor to remedy so serious an evil ? Let him not say, ' I have acted in a minor- ity.' It is no less the duty of the minority than the majority to endeavor to serve our country. For that purpose we are sent here, and not for that of opposition. "We are next told of the ex- penses of the war, and that the people will not pay taxes. "Why not ? Is it a want of capacity ? "What ! with one million tons of shipping ; a trade of nearly one hundred million dollars ; manu- factures of one hundred and fifty million dollars ; and agriculture of thrice that amount, shall we be told the country wants the ca- pacity to raise and support ten thousand or fifteen thousand ad- ditional regulars ? No, it has the ability — that is admitted ; but will it not have the disposition ? Is not the course a just and ne cessary one ? Shall we then utter this libel on the nation ? "Where SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SHIP AMEEIOA. 153 will proof be found of a fact so disgraceful ? It is said in the his- tory of the country twelve or fifteen years ago, ' The case is not parallel.' The ability of the country has greatly increased since. The object of that tax was unpopular. But on this, so well as my memory and almost infant observation at that time served me, the objection was not to the tax, or its amount, but the mode of collection. The eye of the nation was frightened by the number of officers ; its love of liberty shocked with the multi- plicity of regulations. We, in the vile spirit of imitation, copied from the most oppressive part of European laws on that subject, and imposed on a young and virtuous nation all the severe pro- visions made necessary by corruption and long-growing chicane. If taxes should become necessary, I do not hesitate to say the people will pay cheerfully. It is for their goverrq;aent and their cause, and would be their interest and duty to pay. But it may be, and I believe was said, that the nation will not pay taxes, because the rights violated are not worth defending ; or that the defence will cost more than the profit. " Sir, I here enter my solemn protest against this low and ' calculating avarice ' entering this hall of legislation. It is only fit for shops and coimting-houses, and ought not to disgrace the seat of sovereignty by its squalid and vile appearance. "Whenever it touches sovereign power the nation is ruined. It is too short- sighted to defend itself. It is an unpromising spirit, always ready to yield a part to save the balance. It is too timid to have in itself the laws of self-prteservation. It is never safe but under the shield of honor. Sir, I only know of one principle to make a nation gi-eat, to produce in this country not the form but real spirit of union, and that is, to protect every citizen in the lawful pursuit of his business. He will then feel that he is backed by the government— that its arm is his arms, and will rejoice in its increased strength and prosperity. Protection and patriotism are reciprocal. This is the road that all great nations have trod. Sir, I am not versed in this calculating policy, and will not, therefore, pretend to estimate in dollars and cents the value of national independence or national affection. I cannot dare to measure in shillings and pence the misery, the stripes, and the slavery of our impressed seamen ; nor even to value our 154: SECOND VOYAGE IN THE SHIP AMERICA. shipping, commercial, and agricultural losses under the orders in council and the British system of blockade. I hope I haye not condemned any prudent estimate of the means of a country, before it enters on a war. This is wisdom, the other folly." For this speech, and also for his conduct as Chairman of the Committee on Foreign Kelations, where he recommended our government to declare war against Great Britain, he is entitled to my everlasting gratitude, and I hope and trust that every individual who has an American heart will cherish and revere his memory until the latest posterity. If there ever was a just and holy war, it was ours against Great Britain in 1812. CHAPTEE XX. THIRD VOYAGE IN THE SHIP AMERICA TO LISBON, AND BACK TO NEW YORK, IN THE YEARS 1812 AND 1813. On the 20tli of September we commenced taking in flour for Lisbon, and made all dispatch to sail as soon as possible. After the ship was loaded, I shipped an entire new crew of officers and seamen ; the whole amounting to twenty -two souls. The chief mate, Mr. Myrick, had been captain of a ship, and was a capable, efficient officer. The second mate, Mr. Nichols, was a good seaman and a fine fellow. Among the crew were four or five very well educated young gentlemen of good families. "We sailed from New York at daylight on the 13th of Octo- ber, and at 7 o'clock the same morning passed Sandy Hook, with a fine breeze from the N. W. We had a fine run off the coast, and in seventeen days got within three days' sail of the Eock of Lisbon. After this we had light and variable winds, and did not arrive at Lisbon until the 7th of November, making the passage in twenty-five days, all well. ,0n my arrival 1 found lying here a great number of American ships and vessels, seventy or eighty sail from different ports of the United States, all of which had brought flour and breadstuffs. At this time Lord "Wellington's head-quarters were at Funeda, some distance within the line separating Spain'^from Portugal, and no one could say whether he would be able to advance, or obliged to fall back within his lines in the neighborhood of this city. Conse- quently, the market for flour and grain was kept in a very fluctuating state, because if he penetrated far into the interior, he would require a less supply from Lisbon. 156 THTED VOYAGE IN THE SHIP AMERICA. This city is so well known that I deem it unnecessary to say much on the subject, and will therefore make but few remarks, just to state its location, etc. It lies on the right bank of the Eiver Tagus, near its mouth, in latitude 38° 42' N., longitude 9° 6' W. of London. It is the capital city and principal seaport of Portugal, one hundred and seventy-two miles south of Oporto, two hundi-ed and twenty north-west of Cadiz, and thr«e hundred and twenty west south-west of Madrid. It is admirably situated for commerce, and has a population of from three hundred to three hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants. Many of the churches and public buildings are magnificent. When approaching Lis- bon from the sea, it appears grand and imposing, but on enter- ing the city the charm is broken. It is filthy to the last degree, its police the worst in Europe, and had it not one of the best and most salubrious climates in the world, its inhabitants would be swept away with plague and pestilence. Our consignee, Mr. H. T. Sampayo, gave me every facility and dispatch, so that in the course of three weeks after my arrival, the cargo was all landed, the ship ballasted with sand, and ready again for sea. I had the same terms on this, as on my former voyages to this place, namely, forty dollars per month, one hundred barrels of flour, freight free, and other per- quisites. My flour sold very well, but not so high as on the preceding voyage. We left Lisbon for New York on the 1st of December, and had a long, boisterous passage, with almost constant gales froia the westward. Sometimes we were favored with a fair wind for a few hours, but generally had head winds and very rough, stormy weather. On the lYth of January, 1813, at 10 p. m. we fell in with the blockading British squadron about twenty miles off Sandy Hook. It being dark and squally, we eluded the fleet, and on the afternoon of the 19th arrived at New York. As a striking proof that superior talent and enterprise find their level and consequent reward in the United States, I will give a slight historical sketch of one of the young gentlemen who was with me before the mast on this voyage. He was from Connecticut, of a good family, but, like many others from that region of country, was thrown on his own resources in very THIKD VOYAGE IN THE SmP AMEEIOA. 157 early life. The subject of this memoir is the well-known Mr. William "W. De Forest. Before joining my ship he had made a sealing voyage to the western coast of South America, thence to Canton, and back to the TJnited States. During the time he was with me, I ever found him ready and willing to perform all his duties with vigilance and activity, and at this early period it was easy to see that he would become a prominent man, in whatever situation in life he should be placed. When discharged from the America, he entered into mercantile pursuits, and from that day to the present time, has been constantly increasing in wealth and commercial influence. For many years he has been one of the leading shipping mer- chants in New York. He has been the architect of his own for- tune, and I am happy to say his wealth is not confined to his own wants. On the contrary, it has been his great delight to build up very many young men who have fallen within the sphere of his influence, and also to be of service to all those connected with him. We frequently find his name among those whose charitable acts contribute to the benefit of humanity and civili- zation. His success in life will prove to the young men of the present age that, though they may not inherit large estates, by industry and perseverance they can attain to fortune and re- spectability. After this sketch, it only remains for me to add, that this gentleman has been one of my personal friends for more than forty years. CHAPTEE XXI. VOYAGE TO PRANCE, AND A SHORT CRUISE IN THE BAT OF BISCAY, IN THE LETTER-OF-MARQUE SCHOONER " DATID PORTER," IN THE YEARS 1813 AND 1814 All the ships belonging to Messrs. A. Gracie & Sons being laid up, they had at the time no further occasion for my services, which I did not regret, not from any want of regard for mj employers, who were good, just and liberal men, but I was glad to go into some other business. I had serious doubts about the propriety and justice of supplying the Bi'itish with breadstuffs and provisions while my country was at war with that nation. It is true, I had made the last two voyages to Lisbon in the same business, but was never quite satisfied that it was right, and was glad of an opportunity to leave the trade. At this period of the war, there were but three ways for captains of merchant ships to find employment in their vocation, namely, to enter the United States ISTavy as sailing-masters, to go privateering or command letters-of-marque, carry cargoes, as it were force trade, and fight their way or run, as the case might be; and, as an alternative, I chose that of a letter-of-marque. I gave myself some weeks leisure, and then consulted a few friends on the subject of purchasing a pilot-boat schooner, and going into the French trade. After looking about for a suitable vessel, I at length met with a fine schooner of about 200 tons burden, called the " David Porter." She was built in my na- tive town, and had made but one voyage, which was from New York to St. Jean de Luz, France, thence to St. Bartholomew, and from that place to Providence, E. I., where she then lay. VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE DAVID POETEE. 169 She was a fine, fast-sailing vessel, and tolerably well armed, having a long eighteen pounder on a pivot amidships, four six pounders, with muskets, pistols, etc. I purchased one-half of this schooner for $6000, from the former owners in Milford. They retained the other half for their own account. My New York friends, Messrs. Lawrence and Whitney, and James Lo- vett, Esq., bought one quarter, and I retained the other. We decided on a voyage from Providence to Charleston, S. C, and thence to France. I arrived at Providence on the 21st of October, 1813. Here I purchased fifteen hundred bushels of salt at sixty-five cents per bushel, from Messrs. Archibald Gracie & Sons, and after getting it on board, filled up the vessel with sundry articles of Northern produce : the whole cargo amounted to $3,500. I took with me as first lieutenant, my former mate in the Canton, Mr. Samuel Nichols, Joseph Anthony second, and Charles Coggeshall third lieutenant, with a company of about thirty petty officers and men. My boatswain, carpenter and gunner, with several of the seamen, had just been discharged from the frigate President, so that I was fortunate in obtaining a good crew for my schooner, mostly composed of active, young Americans. I left Providence on the 10th of November, with a fine fresh gale from the N. N. W., and in a few hours ran down to New- port, there to lie a few days, get ready for sea, and wait a favor- able time to go out of the harbor. To do that, required a dark night and a north-east snow-storm ; for in those days, to evade the vigilance of the enemy, we were obliged to wait for such nights to leave or enter our ports. On the morning of the 14th, I met with a New York friend, Andrew Foster, Esq., and to him I committed what little treasure I had left after getting ready for sea. The whole consisted of thirty guineas, sundry bank-notes and my gold watch. I requested him to stop at Stamford, Con- necticut, on his way to New York, and leave them with my sister. Miss H. C. Mr. Foster kindly executed this little com- mission, for which and many other favors I was truly grateful, and am furthermore happy to add, that he was a gentleman of sterling integrity, and a most worthy, excellent man. 160 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER DAVID .POETEE. At this time there was a British fleet of a seventy-four gun ship and several frigates cruising off the harbor of Newport, to blockade the port, and watch every movement of the United States frigate President, Commodore Eodgers. For during the war the English seemed to dread an American frigate's getting to sea, as they would an unchained lion. Commodore Eodgers had recently returned here after a long cruise off the North Cape, and along the north-west coasts of England and Scotland. After remaining for several weeks and making many prizes in these northern seas, he proceeded down into more southern lati- tudes, where he greatly distressed the enemy. A few days pre- vious to his arrival, while off Nantucket, he captured by strata- gem the British government schooner " High Flyer." He safely reached this port with his prize the 26th of September, and to avoid any annoyance from the enemy, he proceeded up to Providence to refit for another cruise. Towards evening, on the 14th of November, I got under way, with the wind at E. N. E. No vessel was permitted to go to sea without first presenting a clearance to the commanding •officer at the outer fort, at the entrance of the harbor. Conse- quently I ran down near the fort just before dark, and for fear of any mistake or detention, took my papers, went myself to the commanding officer, and got permission to pass by showing a light in the main shrouds for a few minutes. It soon com- menced snowing, with a fresh gale at N. E. We ran rapidly out of the harbor, and now had arrived the crisis for me to make my escape through the enemy's fleet. They being large objects, I could plainly see the lights through their ports and cabin-windows As we showed no lights, we succeeded in pass- ing between them, and thus effected our escape. My greatest fear now was of running on to Block Island, but a kind Provi- dence directed us through these perils, and daylight once more found us on the broad ocean, clear of all land with not a sail in sight. On the 17th, in lat. 36° 4' N., long, about 73° "W"., we were chased by a man-of-war brig. He being to windward, 1 bore off, and soon had the pleasure to run him out of sight. On the 24th, off Georgetown, we were chased all day by a man-of-war VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE DAVID POETEE. 161 brig, with a schooner in company. They being to leeward, I tacked and plied to windward, and made good my retreat be- fore night. I could have got into Georgetown the next day, but fearing that my cargo would not sell as well as at Charleston, I stood on for that port. JSTov. the 26th, at 6 o'clock, daylight, in ten fathoms of water, off Cape Eoman, saw a man-of-war brig on our weather quarter, distant about three miles. He soon made sail in chase. I kept wide off to leeward in hopes of drawing him down, so that I could weather him on the opposite tack. This manoeuvre did not succeed, as the enemy only kept off about four points. We both therefore maintained our relative positions, and the chase continued for four hours. I had determined not to run to lee- ward, for fear of coming in contact with another foe, but to hug the wind and run in shore ; for, at this period, it was the usual practice with the British ships of war, on our coast, to separate and cruise some thirty or forty miles asunder, one to windward and the other to leeward, so that if our merchant ships ran off to leeward, they were often caught between two fires. At ten o'clock, a. m., saw Charleston light-house, bearing north, about ten miles distant. I set my ensign, and hauled close to the wind ; this brought the enemy on my starboard beam, at long gunshot distance. I then fired my centre gun, but could not quite reach him, the wind being light from the northward. At half-past ten I gave him another shot, and though it did not take effect, with a spy-glass I saw the shot dash the water on his quarter. I suppose the reason he did not fire was, that he could not reach us with his carronades. At II ditto, when within five miles of Charleston Bar, I saw two schooners coming over it, and bearing directly down upon the brig, when he squared his yards and ran away to leeward. The man-of-war brig probably knew the determined character of Captain Diron, and the force of his schooner, the Decatur, and when he saw her and two schooners in company, all hav- ing their ensigns flying, he no doubt thought that three to one were too many, even though they were but private armed ves- sels, which at that time the English affected to despise. Be 162 VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEE DAVID POETEE. this as it may, he squared his yards, ran away to leeward, and thus left us unmolested to pursue our respective courses. The two schooners were the famous privateer Decatnir, of Charles- ton, with seven guns, and a complement of over a hundred men, and the letter-of-marque Adeline, Capt. Craycroft, of Philadelphia, bound to France. The schooners took no notice of the brig, hauled to the eastward, and were quickly out of sight. I soon crossed the bar, got up to Charleston without any further difficulty, and there learned that the man-of-war brig was the Dotterel, carrying eighteen guns. It will doubtless be recollected by all those who are familiar with our late war with England, that the privateer Decatwr, Capt. D. Diron, captured a few months before this period His B. M. schooner Dominioo. The following is the official account of the action : Copy. Charleston, August 21«/, 1813. SiE : — I have the honor to inform you that the privateer schooner Decatur, Capt. Dominique Diron, of this port, arrived here yesterday with His B. H. schooner Dominica, her prize. She was captured on the 5th inst., after a most gallant and desperate action of one hour, and carried by boarding ; having all her officers killed or wounded except one midshipman. The Donwnico mounted fifteen guns, one thirty-two pounder on a pivot, and had a complement of eighty-three men at the commencement of the action, sixty of whom were killed or wounded. She was one of the best equipped and manned vessels of her class I have ever seen. The Decatwr mounted seven guns, and had a complement of one hundred and three men at the commencement of the action, nineteen of whom were killed and wounded. I have the honor to be, with great respect, your most obedient servant, JOHIf H. DENT. Hon. Wm. Jones, Secretary of the Wavy. During the combat, which lasted an liour, the King's VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER DATID POETEK. 163 packet-ship Princess Charlotte remained a silent spectator of the scene, and as soon as the vessels were disengaged from each other she tacked about and stood to the southward. She had sailed from St. Thomas, bound to England, under convoy of the Dominico, to a certain latitude. The loss on board the Domin- ico consisted of killed thirteen, wounded forty-seven, five of whom mortally. On my arrival at Charleston, I appointed Mr. John Mar- shall our consignee and commercial agent. We disposed of uiost of our cargo at a good profit, the salt at $1 50 per bushel, and the other articles at like good rates. After disposing of .my cargo, I found no difficulty in ob- taining a freight for France ; but before I could commence taking in my cotton, was obliged to purchase about twenty-five tons of pig-iron at $65 per ton, and some other small iron ballast. The whole amounted to $1700 ; but it was indispensa- ble, for I could not take a cargo of cotton safely withont it. My whole cargo consisted of three hundred and thirty-one bales of compressed cotton, and sixteen kegs of potash ; two hun- dred and nine of these bales I took on freight at twenty-six cts. per pound, and five per cent, primage. The whole amount of my freight was $14,717, exclusive of the one himdred and twenty-two bales belonging to the owners of the vessel. Allow- ing the owners to pay the same proportion or rate of fi-eight as the other shippers, the schooner would have made a gross freight of about $23,300, which was certainly a great price for carrying three hundred and thirty-one bales of cotton to France. For the one hundred and twenty-two bales purchased for owners' account, I paid fourteen cents per pound ; a more ordinary quality could have been bought for twelve to thirteen cents. About forty bales of the cotton belonging to the owners, I carried on deck. It certainly appears like an enormous freight to make $23,000 in a small schooner of only two hun- dred tons ; but when the expense of sailing one of these letters-of- marque is taken into consideration, it is not so great as might at first appear. The insurance at this time out of France, was from fifteen to twenty per cent.— seamen's wages $30 per month — and other expenses in like proportion. 164 VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEE DAVID POETEE. On the letli of December I finished loading, got all the crew on board, and the next day was ready for sea; but unfortunately the wind blew fresh from the southward, with dark, disagreeable, rainy weather. The Congress of the United States had lately assembled at "Washington, and great fears were entertained by many that an embargo would soon be laid. I was, of course, extremely anxious to get out of port, as such a measure would have been ruinous to myself and the other owners of my vessel. As it was impossible to get over the bar while the wind was blowing strong, directly on shore, I therefore, to avoid being stopped, and keep my men on board, judged it best to drop as low down the harbor as possible, and watch the first favorable moment to proceed to sea. Fortunately it cleared up the next day, and with a favorable breeze and fine weather, I left the port of Charleston on the 20th, bound to Bordeaux. I had a good run off the coast, and met with nothing worth remarking until the 27th, about a week after leaving port, when I fell in with a small English brig from Ja- maica, bound to Nova Scotia. As it was about four o'clock in the afternoon, and blowing a strong gale from the IT. W., with a high sea running, I did not think it safe to board him until the gale should moderate and the sea become smoother. I therefore ordered him to carry as much sail as possible, and follow me on our course to the eastward until better weather. He reluctantly followed, and once before dark I was obliged to hail and give him to understand that if he showed too great a disposition to lag behind, or did not carry all the sail his brig could bear, he would feel the effect of one of my stern guns. This threat had the desired effect, and he followed kindly at a convenient dis- tance until midnight, when it became very dark and squally, and we soon after lost sight of our first prize, which I did not much regret, as I coxild not conveniently spare men enough to send him into port. From this time until we got near the European coast, we scarcely saw a sail, and did not meet with a single man-of-war. Thus, while the whole coast of the United States was literally lined with English cruisers, oh the broad ocean there were very few to be seen : a clear proof that the risk of capture between VOYAGE IN THE 80H0ONEE DA.YID POETEE. 165 Newport and Charleston, was infinitely greater than in going to France. At this period we were not obliged to deliver the goods on freight at any particular place, but at any port in France, from St. Jean de Luz to Ostend. My bills of lading were filled up upon this principle, to " Bordeaux or a port in France," so that on the arrival of the goods, the owners or agents were bound to receive them at any place where the vessel was fortunate enough to enter. My object was to get as near Bordeaux as possible ; still I did not like to attempt entering the Garonne, as the Eng- lish generally kept several frigates and smaller vessels stationed directly off the Cordovan Light, which rendered it extremely difficult and hazardous. I therefore decided to run for the har- bor of La Teste. About a week before we got into port, while in the Bay of Biscay, namely on the 19th and 20th of Jan., we encountered one of the most severe gales from the westward that I ever ex- perienced. It commenced early on the morning of the 19th, and blew a perfect hurricane, which soon raised a high cross-sea. At eight o'clock, a. m., I hove the schooner to under a double- reefed foresail, lowered the fore-yard near the deck and got every thing as snug as possible. At twelve, noon, a tremen- dous sea struck- her in the wake of the starboard fore-shrouds. The force of the sea broke one of the top timbers or stan- chions and split open the plank-sheer, so that 1 could see direct- ly into the hold. The violence of the blow, and the weight of water that came on board, threw the vessel nearly on her beam- ends. Fortunately the foresail was split and the bulwarks torn away by the water, and being thus relieved, she gradually right- ed. We then threw overboard two of the lee guns, water-casks, &c., and after nailing tarred canvas and leather over the broken plank-sheer, got ready to veer ship, fearing the injury received in the wake of the starboard fore-shrouds would endanger the foremast. We accordingly got ready to hoist a small piece of the mainsail, kept her off before the wind a few minutes, and watched a favorable, smooth time to bring her to the wind on the other tack. During the time that the schooner ran before the wind, she 166 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE DAVID POETEE. appeared literally to leap from one sea to another. "We soon, however, brought her up to the wind on the other tack without accident, and thus under a small piece of the mainsail, she lay to pretty well. As the gale continued to rage violently, I feared we might ship another sea, and therefoi'e prepared, as it were, to anchor the vessel head to wind. For this purpose we took a square-sail boom, spanned it at each end with a new four-inch rope, made our small bower cable fast to the bight of the span, and with the other end fastened to the foremast, threw it ovei^ board, and payed out about sixty fathoms of cable ; she then rode like a gull on the water, and I was absolutely astonished to see the good effect of this experiment. The spar broke the sea, and kept the schooner nearly head to the wind until the gale subsided. The next day, in the afternoon, we again made sail, and on the 26th, six days after this tempest, got safe into La Teste, thirty-seven days from Charleston. While we providentially escaped destruction, other ships were less fortunate ; many ves- sels were stranded and wrecked along the coast; five sail of English transports were thrown on shore near La Teste, and most of their crews perished in the same gale. On my arrival, all my papers were sent up to Paris, and although all well, we were compelled by the government to ride quarantine for six days. La Teste is a poor little village, principally supported by fish and oysters taken in its waters and sold in Bordeaux, from which city it is distant thirty miles, and fifty-four from the moath of the Garonne. The harbor has a bad sand-bar at its mouth ; is fit entrance only for small vessels of a light draft of water ; and even for them it is dangerous to approach in bad weather. I will here insert a copy of the first letter written to my owners. " Messrs. Lawrence and Whitney, Strong and Miles, and James Lovett, Esq. " Gentlemen : — I arrived here on the 20th of last month, after a rough passage of thirty-seven days. No sale at all can be had for cotton and no security for any thing ; the agents and VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE DAVID POETEK. 167 owners of the cotton are unwilling to receive it, and one and all refuse to pay the freight. As soon as I can^btain permission, I shall discharge the vessel, forward all the cargo up to Bor- deaux by land, and endeavor by law to force the consignees of the cotton to receive it. In fine, I shall be happy if they do not throw the cotton on my hands for the freight. " No merchant in Bordeaux is willing to advance me half the amount of the freight due, and retain it as security. In short, it is with the greatest difficulty I can obtain sufficient money from my consignees, Messrs. Brun freres, to pay the necessary disbursementsi on my vessel. It is therefore at pro- sent impossible for me to say what I shall do. If I could col- lect my freight, I could remit the amount to the United States through England, and gain on the exchange from seventeen to twenty per cent. ; or if I could get enough advanced on my cotton to purchase part of a cargo of wine and brandy, and return to some port in the United States or the West Indies, I could perhaps pick up the residue of a cargo from the enemy on the broad ocean. " As I am now situated, I know not what to do. Should 1 send my vessel home by my first officer, and he be captured on the way, you would perhaps blame me, and say, ' Why did he not come home in the vessel himself?' To leave the freight and cargo here in the hands of strangers, I cannot ; dispose of the cotton at a ruinous sacrifice, I will not ; and on the other hand, to keep the vessel here upon expense is very painful. As you will perceive the whole business is beset with diffi- culties, and hedged in on every side. You may, however, rely upon my best exertions to promote your interest ; and come what will, you may rest assured, gentlemen, that I shall act from pure motives and strive to do justice to the utmost of my abilities." After performing six days' quarantine, I proceeded on horse- back to Bordeaux. The road being intricate and somewhat difficult, I hired a guide to accompany me the greater part of the way. We often had to pass over barren sands and through pine forests. My guide was a merry fellow. He was mounted 168 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER DAVID POETEE. on stilts about two feet high, and with a long balance-pole and a musket slung ov.er his shoulder, had no difficulty in keeping up with my horse, travelling at the rate of five or six miles an hour. "We passed through several small towns and villages on the way, but none of much note. I found the inhabitants civil and kind, but poor and ignorant. The inns and stopping-places were dirty and comfortless. After an unpleasant ride of six hoi^rs we arrived at Bordeaux. Here I made an arrangement with the house of Messrs. Brun freres, to transact my business in this place, and direct me how to proceed with respect to land- ing my cargo at La Teste. I remained at Bordeaux two days, and having settled on a plan with respect to landing and storing my cargo, returned to La Teste. There being no public con- veyance, I was compelled to return on horseback. From Messrs. Brun freres I took a letter to Madame Gaupos, a widow lady, whose husband had been a merchant, and after his death she continued to transact nearly all the commercial business of the place. She was polite, well educated, and a person of excellent character. To this lady I consigned my ves- sel and cargo so far as it respected La Teste, and agreed with her to attend to the landing, weighing, stoiing and forwarding of my cotton to Bordeaux. She owned two large warehouses, had every facility and convenience for storing my whole cargo, and, with one young man as clerk, performed the whole busi- ness to my entire satisfaction. In fact she was the only person in the town capable of receiving and forwarding my cargo to Bordeaux. Though La Teste was a poor little town without much trade, yet there were there several polite, agreeable and well-bred families ; and although the port was difficult of ingress and egress on account of a dangerous bar, .within the ha. bor it was quite safe from all winds. After several days' detention, waiting permits from Bor- deaux, bad weather, etc., I at length finished discharging my cargo, and had it all safely stored on the 15th of February ; but on account of the bad state of the roads, and the difficulty of obtaining carts, I was unable to get the cotton up to Bor- deaux. France was now in a very unsettled state, threatened VOYAGE m THE SCbOONEE DATID FOETEE. 169 by its enemies on every side. It was reported, while I was tliere, that a part of the Eussian and Austrian armies were within thirty leagues of Paris, that Lord Wellington with his army was in the Landes in pursuit of Marshal Soult, who was on his way to Toulouse, and great fears were entertained that a part of the English army would soon be in Bordeaux. I was therefore extremely anxious to get away at all hazards, not knowing whether the English would respect private persons and private property. In this state of things I wrote to my owners on the Tth of March. The following is an extract from my letter : — • " I have this day returned from La Teste, where I have been staying the last week, getting mj vessel ready for sea. I have at length prevailed on Messrs. Brun freres to advance me money enough to pay my disbursements, and also to furnish me with sufficient means to ptirchase one hundred casks of wine, and fifty pipes of brandy. I have chartered a small vessel to trans- port the wine and brandy from this place to La Teste, and got it insured here against all risks for seven per cent, premium. I hope the'chasse-mar^e, with the wine and brandy, will arrive safe at La Teste the day after to-morrow, when I shall return to that place and send the schooner off to New York, as soon as pos- sible, under command of my first officer, Mr. Samuel Nichols. " "We are all in hubbub and confusion here, and threatened on all sides by the enemy. All my cargo is still lying in store at La Teste, except about twenty bales of cotton, which are here in the hands of Messrs. Brun freres. I have had much trouble and anxiety since I arrived, have been obliged to make frequent journeys on horseback between this place and La Teste, and sometimes compelled to ride half the night, and take shelter where I could best find it on the road. " All the American vessels have left this place, for fear of the English, and gone down near the mouth of the Graronne. Some are bound home to America, others will strive to get to La Kochelle, as that is a strongly fortified town, and will prob- ably hold out longer than this place. Every day brings us worse news from Paris and other quarters, and, from present appearances, this country cannot hold out much longer." 170 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEH DATID POETEE. The large tract of country lying between Bayonne and Bordeaux is familiarly called the Landes. It is bounded on the west by the Bay of Biscay, extends about twenty-fire leagues east into the interior, and is, I think, the poorest part of France. The face of the country is generally low, flat, sandy and barren. Its forests consist principally of pine or fir trees, and the land is, for the most part, miserably cultivated. The peasantry are wretchedly poor, and chiefly clothed in sheep- skins. The Basque is the language of the country, and it is only the upper classes or educated people, who speak French. In the summer season the sands are extremely hot, and in the spring and fall months the country, being low, is often wet and muddy ; which, I suppose, is the cause of so many of the country people, particularly the peasants and shepherds, walk- ing on stilts, a foot or two above the ground, with long balance- poles to support them and regulate their movements. I have seen them in the morning at a distance, when the weather was a little foggy ; they absolutely appeared like giants, walking over the tall grass and small trees. I used frequently to ask them why they perferred walking on stilts. Their answer gen- erally was, to keep their feet dry, remarking also, that they could travel much faster, and with more ease than with their feet on the ground. This region is very unlike the other parts of France ; and should a stranger visit the Landes, without seeing any other por- tion of the kingdom, he would naturally conclude that the French nation was only about half civilized. I recollect the flrst time I landed at La Teste, I was forcibly struck with what I there witnessed. The pilot who took my vessel into port, came off in a boat rowed (I had almost said manned) by four females. After the schooner came to anchor, I took one of my sailors with me, and returned to the shore in the pilot's boat. We struck on the sand, where the water was too shallow for the boat to come to the beach ; when one of the women immediately jumped into the water, took the huge pilot on her back, and carried him some distance to the dryland. Another female offered to carry me in the same way ; to this I would not consent. The sailor, VOYAGE IN THE SCHOOiraiE DAVID POETEE. 171 like myself, appeared ashamed to see a female carry a man on her back throngh the surf, and instantly jumped out and took me on his hack to the dry beach. It is true, these women were coarse and rough, but still they were females, and it was therefore impossible for either my sailor or myself so to degrade them. All along the road, from La Teste to Bordeaux, I rarely saw a man at work in the fields ; nearly all the labor of cultivat- ing the lands, at that time, was performed by females. Xow and then, it is true, I saw an old man, and perhaps a boy, but this did not often occur. All the men, from sixteen to sixty, were pressed into the military service. It was often a melan- choly sight, when passing through the towns and villages, to see mere boys forced from their parents, taken to some military depot, there to be drilled a few weeks, and then sent to some of the numerous armies, to be slaughtered like so many sheep and cattle. Although at this period the Austrian and Russian armies were in the neighborhood of Paris, and Lord "Wellington at the head of his victorious army was overrunning the south of France, it was astonishing to see how little was known to the country people of this region, about the military state of the Empire. Perhaps not a man in a thousand knew that there was a Russian or an English soldier within a hundred leagues of France. One day, in passing through a small village, I stop- ped at a house to get some water, and found a poor woman wringing her hands and weeping, as if her heart would break. On inquiring the cause of her grief, she said, " Sir, they have just taken away my son to join the army, and I have already lost two of my children in the same way. Oh ! I shall never see him again ! " I offered the poor woman all the consolation I could. I told her I was a stranger, and had no right to inter- fere with the affairs of another nation, but, at the same time, if she would keep quiet, I could assure her there was no danger of losing her son— that the wars were nearly at an end, and that peace, in all human probability, would be concluded in a few weeks, when her son would be restored to her again. At these words the poor creature was completely overjoyed, and blessed me a thousand times. "When I mounted my horse and 172 VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEE DAVID POETEE. rode off, I conld not but reflect with indignation on what men call military glory ; but, at the next moment, I felt self-reproved, as I, too, commanded an armed vessel, and expected to go out in a few days to distress the enemies of my country. How strange and inconsistent is poor short-sighted man, condemning others when committing the same offence for which he would denounce his neighbor. I soon saw that the French ladies and the working women are removed an immeasurable distance from each other ; almost as much so as though they did not belong to the same species. I often used to spend a social evening at the hospitable mansion of my consignee, Madame Caupos, and saw there assembled some fifteen or twenty young ladies, and generally not more than three or four gentlemen. These were military oificers, who had been wounded and disabled in the wars, and were now here attached to the Custom House. This was certainly a sad state of society in a national point of view, when there were no young men to marry the fair daughters of France. Madame Caupos was an amiable, benevolent lady, and de- servedly beloved by the whole town ; by way of pleasantry, I used often to call her, " La Eeine du Village." The state of affairs in France daily grew worse and worse. Lord Wellington was following Marshal Soult day after day to- wards Toulouse. We also received bad news from the ]!Torth, that the Austrians and Prussians were daily advancing on Paris, and were then within twenty leagues of that city. I received on the 5th a letter from Messrs. Brnn freres, which induced me to hurry up to Bordeaux, and endeavor to bring my business to a better and more decided state, as they were disin- clined, in consequence of the unsettled state of the country, to advance enough for my unavoidable expenses. On the 8th of March I hastened up from La Teste to Bordeaux, to prevent the chasse-mar6e from going round to La Teste, and agreed with the captain and owners of this vessel to proceed with the wine and brandy to La Kochelle, as soon as possible. I then made arrangements with my friends, Messrs. Brun freres, and left Bordeaux at six o'clock the same evening for La Teste. Soon after leaving the town, I overtook a French gentleman going VOYAGE IN THE 60HO0NEE DATTD POBTEK. 173 there also. He was a military ofiScer engaged on public busi- ness, and I found him a most agreeable travelling companion. We rode on, picking our way as well as we could, until it be- came very dai-k, when we lost our road, and could find no one to put us in the right path again. After wandering about till two o'clock after midnight, we came to a village, where, after knocking at several houses in vain, we at length found one into which we gained admittance. It 'was a small house with but two rooms, and not one spare bed, but its inmates were civil and kind. We wore cold, wet, and hungry, and they gave us the best they had, which consisted of eggs, bread and sour wine. Even this was to us a grateful repast. We warmed and sweet- ened the wine, of which we drank freely, and then lay down on the floor by the fireside till daylight, when we again started for La Teste. We found we had wandered a great distance from the right road, and had still about a league to go before reach- ing the end of our journey. On my arrival at La Teste, I lost no time in preparing for sea. There was no other ship or vessel lying here, and no stone ballast ; I was therefoi-e compelled to take in sand in my own boat, fill up our water casks and take them on board in the same way. We had no biscuit on board, and there was but one baker of any consequence in the town. I hastened to this im- portant character, and agreed to take all the bread he could make in two days, and thus, by hurrying and driving, I got ready for sea on the 11th of March. At the end of two days I called on the baker for my supply of bread, when, to my great mortification and disappointment, I could get only loaves enough to fill two bags. This, for a vessel bound to La Kochelle, with a crew of thirty-five in number, was certainly a very small allowance. It is true, I had salt beef and pork enough on board, but no vegetables or rice. On the 11th in the evening, by letters from Bordeaux, I learned that the day before, the town had suiTendered by capit- ulation to a portion of Lord Wellington's army, that no person had been molested, and that perfect good order was observed throughout the city. All tliis appeared very well with respect to Bordeaux, but still I was fearful that the English would 174 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEK DAVID POKTEE. come down and take La Teste before I could get to sea. The next day, the wind being from the westward, the pilot would not take my vessel to sea. He said that it was impossible to get out ; that there was too great a swell on the bar, &c. On the 13th the weather was clear and the wind fresh at JST. N. E. In the morning I prevailed on the pilot to come on board. He told me that the tide would suit at five o'clock in the afternoon, and if there should not be too much sea on the bar at that hour, he would take the vessel out. Accordingly, at four o'clock I requested him to get under way, and be ready to pass the bar at five. 1 now found he was unwilling to go out at all. He said, " Captain, if we should succeed in getting out, it would be impossible to land me." I then offered him double pilotage, told him I was fearful the English would come down in the morning and make a prize of my vessel, that I would treble his pilotage, and pledge him my honor, that if I waited a week outside, I would land him in safety. At last my patience was exhausted, and I found the more I coaxed and strove to per- suade him to go, the more obstinate he became. At length I said, "If you will not go to sea, pilot, just get the schooner under way and go down below the fort, and anchor there within the bar." To this proposition he consented. "While getting under way, I went below, put into my pocket a loaded pistol, and again returned on deck. We soon got be- low the fort, and it was five o'clock, precisely the hour he had named as the most suitable to pass out over the bar. I then placed the pistol to his ear, told him to proceed to sea or he was a dead man, and that if the schooner took the ground his life should pay the forfeit. The poor fellow was terribly frightened, said he would do his best, and in less than fifteen minutes from the time we filled away, we were fairly over and outside of this formidable bar. I then discharged the pistol, assured the pilot I would do him no harm, and that I would wait a week it' it was necessary, for good weather to laad him in safety. He now appeared more tranquil and composed, but would not re- frain from talking occasionally of his poor wife and children, and seemed to have a lurking fear that I would carry him to Amer- ica. I stood off and on during the night, and in the morning. VOYAGE IN THE 8CH0ONEE DAVID PORTER. 175 March lith" the wind was light off shore from the eastward ; as the sea was sraooth, I stood close in to the beach, and got out our boat ready to land the pilot. I sent by him several letters to my friends, and an order on Madame Caupos for a consider- able sum over and above his regular pilotage, notwithstanding I had compelled him to take my vessel to sea. At eight o'clock in the morning, my second officer with four men took Mr. Pilot on shore. I gave the officer of the boat positive orders to back the boat stern on to the shore, and let the pilot jump out when- ever he could do so with safety. I took a spyglass, and had the pleasure to see the man land, and scamper up the beach. The boat soon returned and was hoisted on board, when we made sail and stood off in a !N". W. direction. The wind was light from the eastward, the weather fine and clear. During the night we had not much wind, and of course made but little progress. At daylight, March 15th, saw a large ship on oiir weather quarter. I soon made her out to be a frigate, distant about two miles. We were now in a very un- pleasant position, early in the morning, with a frigate dead to windward. I manoeuvred for some ten or fifteen minutes in hopes of drawing him down to leeward, so that I should be able to weather him on one tack or the other. This was often done at the commencement of the war with American schooners, for if the pilot-boats could succeed in getting the enemy under their lee, they would laugh at their adversary. This manoeuvre however did not succeed ; he only kept off four or six points, and I have no doubt, thought it impossible for me to elude his grasp. All this time I was losing ground, and the ship not more than two gun shots to windward. I held a short consultation with my officers on the subject of attempting to get to windward (which would involve our receiving a broadside), or by running off to leeward. They all thought it best to ply to windward, and receive his fire. I stated that we should have to pass him within pistol shot, and the probability was that he would shoot away some of our spars, in which case we should inevitably be captured. I knew the schooner sailed very fast off the wind, and thought the chance of escape better to run to leeward. I accordingly gave orders 176 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER DAVID POKTEE. to get.the square-sail and studding-sails all ready to run up at the same moment ; thus, when every thing was prepared, the holm was put up, and every square-sail set in a moment. The frigate not dreaming of my running to leeward, was unprepared to chase off the wind, and I should think it was at least five minutes before he had a studding-sail set, so that I gained about a mile at the commencement of the chase. The wind was light from the E. IST. E. and the weather very fine. I ordered holes bored in all the water-casks except four, and tlie water pumped into buckets to wet the sails, also to throw over- board sand-ballast to lighten the schooner. After this was done, we began to draw away from the frigate, so that at noon, I had gained about eight or ten miles on the chase. At four in the afternoon he was nearly out of sight, and appeared like a speck on the water. We had now time to look into our own situation, when to my great regret, in lieu of having four casks of water, the carpenter in the confusion had only left two ; and as the wind freshened, I found the schooner so light that it was unsafe to haul upon the wind. Sea-faring men will appreciate my unfortunate situation. Thus wide off to sea in the Bay of Biscay, in a light vessel, with scarcely ballast enough to stand upon her bottom, with a crew of thirty -five men, and only two casks of fresh water and a few loaves of soft bread. The wind was light during the night, and towards morning it became almost calm. At daylight, to our unspeakable joy, we were in the midst of a small fleet of merchant ships. They had left England under convoy of a frigate and a sloop-of-war, had separated in a gale of wind a few days before I fell in with them, and were now like a flock of shetep without a shep- herd. This little fleet was bound to St. Sebastian, and many of them were loaded with p-o visions for the British army. The first one I captured was a brig, principally laden with provisions. . After taking possession, I agreed with the captain that, if he would assist me with his boats and men to transport his cargo from his vessel to my schooner, I would let him go ; otherwise I would take what J wanted and destroy his brig. Of course he was glad to make the best of a bad bargain ; and thus with VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE DATID POETEE. 177 the boats of botli vessels, in two hours we had provisions enough for a three months' cruise. His cabin was filled with bags of hard biscuit, the staff of life, which we took first, then got a fine supply of butter, hams, cheese, potatoes, porter, &c., and last, though not least, six casks of fresh water. After this was done, the captain asked me if I would make him a present of the brig and the residue of the cargo, for his own private ac- count, to which I willingly agreed, in consideration of the as- sistance I had received from him and his men. I showed him my commission from the government of the United States, authorizing me to take, bum, sink or destroy our common enemy, and satisfied him that he was a lawful prize to my vessel. I then gave him a certificate, stating that though his brig was a lawful prize, I voluntarily gave her to him as a pres- ent. This, of course, was only a piece of foolery, but it pleased the captain and we parted good friends. This was on the 16th of March, the day after my escape from the British frigate. I had now got as much water and provisions as I wanted, and made sail for a ship and two brigs, a mUe or two off on oui* lee beam. Although the wind was very light, I soon took all three of them, and made the same agreement with them as with the other captain, that if they would assist me with all their boats and men to load my schooner with such part of their cargo as best suited me, I would let them go, otherwise I would send them into port as prizes, or destroy their vessels. This was a bitter pill, but they had the choice of two evils, and, of course, complied with my request. We soon commenced taking out of these prizes all sorts of stores designed for the British army, viz.: officers' and soldiers' clothing, cocked hats, epaulettes, small arms, instruments of music, etc. Independent of these warlike stores, we also took a considerable quantity of English cloths, and various other articles of merchandise. A fresh breeze sprang up from the S. W., and the weather became dark and rainy, which rendered it difficult to continue transporting any more goods from the prizes to our schooner. At five o'clock in the afternoon, a large ship hove in sight to windward. From aloft, witli a spyglass, I clearly made her out to be the same frigate 12 178 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE DAVID POETBE. that had chased me the day before. I recognized her from the circumstance of her having a white jib ; all the sails were dark colored except this jib, which was bleached. "We of course cleared the decks and got ready for another trial of speed, but as my schooner was now in good trim, and night coming on, I had no doubt of dodging him in the dark. He came rapidly down within five or six miles of us, when I ran near my prizes, and ordered them all to hoist lanterns. None of them up to this time had seen the frigate, and while the lan- terns showed their positions, I hauled off silently in the dark. Very soon after this, I heard the frigate firing at his unfortunate countrymen, while we were partaking of an excellent supper at their expense. The next day it was dark and rainy, with strong gales from the S. "W". ; saw nothing. Stood to the northward, under easy sail, waiting for better weather, to complete loading my little schooner with something valuable from another prize. I would here remark that small guns, six or nine pounders, are of little or no use on board of small vessels ; for if the sea is rough, they cannot be used at all. I have found them of no service, but rather in the way. My only dependence was on my eighteen pounder, mounted amidships, on a pivot. This gun I could use in almost any weather. With it, and forty small-arms, I found no difiiculty in capturing merchant ships. I selected ten of the largest and strongest men I had on board to work the centre gun. One of them was a huge black man, about six feet six inches in height, and large in proportion. To him I gave the command of the gun. Although so powerful a man, he was the best-natured fellow in the world, and a general favorite, both with ofiicers and men. March 19,th. — Still a continuation of bad weather, with a strong gale from the westward. At four p. m., saw a frigate and a brig-of-war, off my lee-beam, distant about five miles. They made sail in chase, but under my three lower sails, mainsail, foresail, and jib, I had no fear of them. I showed my ensign for a few moments, then plied to windward, making short tacks, and in a few hours they gave up the chase, when I again pursued my course to the northward, under easy sail. VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER DAVID FOBTEE. 1Y9 March 20^/;,. — Moderate breezes from the -n-estward, and un- pleasant weather. This day I came to the conclusion to land myself somewhere on the coast of France, and to send my vessel home, under the command of my tirst officer, Mr. Samuel Nichols. On an examination of a chart of the coast, I concluded to run for I'lle Dieu, and land there. Accordingly I shaped ray course for the island, and without meeting with any incident worth relating, made the land on the 23d at four o'clock in the afternoon ; at six ditto landed on the island in my own boat. It soon became dark, and I was obliged to remain on shore, with my boat's crew, all night. I took with me my clearance and other papers from Bor- deaux, with sundry newspapers, and was well received by the Governor and Commissary of Marine. March 24th, lat. 24° 20' S. — Last night, the weather being very fine and clear, we saw for the first ^ime what are called the Magellan clouds. They are three in number, and were not far above the horizon. They bore from us about S. S. E., and are evidently clusters of stars ; two of them appeared white like the milky-way, the other was dark and indistinctly seen. Jarmary 2th. — At 8 o'clock in the morning, the weather being hazy, with a light breeze from the S. E., the man on the lookout at the mast-head cried out " Land ho !" and told the offi- cer of the deck that he saw something ahead that looked like a small island, and that there were thousands of birds on and around it. In a few minutes every eye was eagerly gazing at the supposed island. I knew there was no land laid down on any of my charts near where we Were, and therefore concluded that it must be the wi'eck of a ship. As the wind was very light we drew slowly up with the newly discovered object. It soon, however, became visible from the deck, when I took a spy-glass and examined it with close attention ; but owing to the constant changes it as- sumed I was at a loss to decide what it was, from its undulating appearance, alternately rising above the water and then disap- pearing beneath it, until within half a n;ile's distance, when all VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER SEA-SEEPENT. 317 doubt was solved, and w? found it to be an enormous dead whale floating on its back. It was very much swollen, and at times apparently some six or eight feet above the water. There were innumerable flocks of wild fowl hovering over and alighting upon it. Many of them appeared to be devouring it, and were making loud and wild screams, as if exulting over this grand but accidental feast. In order to ascertain with more precision its length and size, I hove the schooner to, a short distance to windward, and went in my boat to examine it, which I did to my entire satis- faction. When approaching near, it became so offensive that I was obliged to keep at a respectful distance to windward, and there watch the numerous flocks of sea birds that were revelling upon it. In the midst of their din of discordant screams, it was strange to witness with what delight they tore off portions of the fish, and how at each moment their number seemed to augment. After leaving this scene, I came to the conclusion that dead whales like this are one great cause of so many " dangers" and " small islands," being laid down on all the old charts, which dangers are found not to exist. Such objects as these were probably discovered in dark, windy weather, when it would have been dangerous to have approached near enough to the supposed islands to ascertain what they really were. Thus we have, even at the present time, laid down all over the Atlantic ocean, rocks, shoals and dangers, the greater part of which do not in reality exist. January 10th, lat. 26° 10' S. — ^During the early part of the last two nights, we have seen the four bright stars called the Southern Cross. They are very brilliant, and with a little help of the imagination form a pretty good representation of the Christian cross ; and I have no doubt that many of the early Eoman Catholic navigators believed they were placed in the heavens to substantiate the truth of the Christian reli- gion. Januwry 15th. — This day, at noon, we fell in with and boarded the ship Ha/nnibal, of Sag Harbor, seven months out 318 VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEK SEA-SERPENT. on a whaling voyage. They informed me that they had on boai-d 3000 barrels of oil. At 9 o'clock, p. M., spoke the whaling ship Fame, of ISTew London. We were now in lat. 37° 20' S., long. 49° W. On the 17tli, we had clear, pleasant weather, with light and variable winds. At 10 o'clock a. m., our long., by a good lu- nar observation, was 60° 38' W., lat. at noon 41° 1' S. At 6 o'clock of this day we fell in with the ships Herald and Ama- zon. They were cruising in company for whale, and both be- longed to Fair Haven, Mass. The captain of the Herald came on board to ascertain his longitude ; he said they had seen no land for the last two months, and. had been too busy to pay much attention to the course of the ship ; that he knew nothing of lunar observations, and had no chronometer ; he was there- fore desirous to ascertain the present position of his ship. I had an excellent chronometer on board, and, as the lunar observa- tion taken that day agreed with it, I told him there was no doubt that I could give him the exact latitude and longitude. He said he had only been eight months at sea, and had then on board 1400 barrels of oil ; that the Amazon had taken 1100 barrels, and that he should soon steer to the northward on his way home. When the whale-boat belonging to the Herald came along- side the Sea-Serpent, it was higher than the deep-loaded pilot- boat. The captain of the Herald said to me : — " Well, cap- tain, you say you are from New York, bound for Lima ; but seriously, are you going round Cape Horn in this little whistle- divej- ?" " I shall certainly try it, captain," said I, " and hope I shall succeed." " Well then," he replied. " but tell me, did you get your life insured before you left home ?" " No," said I, "but I left my faiuily in comfortable circumstances, so that if I should be taken away they will have enough to live upon ; besides, I am a good schooner sailor, and accustomed to these whistle-divers, as you call them." "Well, captain," said the whaler, " I must say you have good courage, and I hope you may succeed ; but for my part, I had rather kill a hundred whales than go round the Horn in this little craft." After this dialogue we parted with mutual good wishes for future pros- VOYAGE m THE 8CH00NEE 8BA-8EKPENT. 319 perity and liappiness, and each resumed our course upon the great, trackless deep. The next day, Jan. 18th, we had strong breezes from the S. E., and though the winds were fresh and strong, with considerable sea, we were able to steer on our S. W. course under reefed sails. I must not omit to mention the singular fact, that a flock of sea-birds had followed my schooner for the last ten days, namely, from lat. 26° S., and were still hovering near the vessel, some- times ahead, and then again about thirty or forty yards astern. They frequently alighted pn the water, and appeared to watch every small particle of food or grease that was thrown over- board. .They were fifteen in number, about the size of a com- mon turtle-dove ; and are called by seamen, cape pigeons. From this time to the 22d of January, nothing remarkable occurred until, on that day, we met with a severe gale from the southward, attended with a high head sea, so that at midnight we were obliged to lay to under a close reefed foresail. We were now in lat. i6° 50' S., long. 68° 26' W. At noon, I caught three large albatros with a hook and line, buoyed up by several corks and baited with fat pork. One of the largest measured across his wings, from tip to tip, eight feet four inches. They were covered with white feathers three or four inches thick, thus kindly protected by Providence from the cold, in these in- clement latitudes. In low latitudes, where the weather is hot and sultry, the birds are thinly covered with feathers, mostly of high and brilliant colors. The fish, also, in hot climates, partake of the same gorgeous colors ; such, for instance, as the parrot fish, the red snapper and many others. After passing these hot regions, approaching the latitude of 50°, and so iip to the lati- tude of Cape tlorn, the birds are generally all white, and clothed with an immense mat of down and feathers. Among the fish, I likewise saw no gay-colored ones in these cold regions ; on the contrary, I frequently saw large shoals of porpoises pied, and sometimes quite white. While sailing and travelling about the world, I have often been struck with the wisdom and goodness of God, not only to man but to all His creatures, in suiting their condition to the different climates of the earth. We find the colored man 320 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER SEA-SEEPENT. adapted to the sultry, burning climates, and the white man constituted to endure the cold. So it is with beasts, birds and fish. I first began to notice the kindness of Providence, when only a boy trading to, the islands of the West Indies. I observed that the sheep we used to take there from Connecticut, though thickly covered with wool would shortly lose their fleeces, and eventually become hairy like goats. On the other hand, the higher the latitude, where the cold is most intense, the thicker and finer is the fur on the animals, for example, where the bear, seal and musk ox are found. As we increased our latitude, the weather became daily more and more rough and boisterous; we encountered storm after storm, and the weather was more cloudy, cold and disagreeable, which kept us reefing and changing almost hourly. On the STth of January, at 5 a. m., daylight, we made the Falkland Isl- ands, bearing from S. to S. E., distant five leagues ; the winds being light and the weather moderate, we stood in shore. The wind being at this time at W. S. W., we were unable to fetch to westward of the islands, and therefore commenced beating up along-shore to weather the westernmost island. These isl- ands appear of a moderate height, and generally rocky and barren. Lat. by obs. this day 51° 18' S., long, about 61° 6' W. "We continued to beat to the westward all this day and the fol- lowing ; standing off' and on the land, with open, cloudy weather, and moderate gales from the S. W. Saw a high rock appear- ing like a lofty sail ; marked on the charts Eddystone Kock. On Monday, the 28th, land still in sight ; at meridian the wind shifted to the N. W., which enabled us to weather the land, and thus we passed to the westward of this group of isl- ands, and steered on our course to the southward and westward towards Cape Horn : lat. by obs. at noon, 50° 58' S., long. 61° 50' W. In the afternoon of this day, the weather became thick and rainy ; passed several tide rips, and saw a number of pen- guins. The little flock of cape pigeons before alluded to, still followed the schooner — they are our constant companions by day and by night, in sunshine and in tempest. The variation of the compass here is from one and three quarters to two points VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEE SEA-SEEPENT. 321 easterly. The -weather was now cold and disagreeable; tem- perature by Fahrenheit's thern^meter 60° above zero. Tuesday^ Jem. 29tk. — Light winds and variable. This day the weather appeared to change every hour or two ; at times the sun would shine out, and then suddenly disappear and be- come obscured by a thick fog. This would continue but for a short time, when a strong breeze from the northward woiild blow all the -fog away, and the sky remain pretty clear for a few hours, then the sun would again break out and shine, and perhaps another hour would bring a flight of snow. Sometimes, even when the sun was shining, the decks would be covered for a few minutes with snow, which would soon melt away and be followed by a violent shower of rain and hail. In fine, I find it very difficult to describe the weather in this dreary region ; though we were in the midst of summer, we had all the seasons of the year in the course of a day. These continual changes kept us constantly making and taking in sail throughout these twenty-four hours. Lat. by obs. 63° 1' S., long. 64° 0' W. Jam. 30tA. — ^These twenty-four hours commenced with a strong gale from the westward, with a high head sea running. At 1 p. M., hove to under a two-reefed foresail ; dark, cloudy, cold weather, with violent squalls of hail and rain. At mid- night the gale moderated, when we again made sail, the schooner laboring violently and making much water. Lat. by obs., 53° 30' S., long. 64° W. Jan. 31st. — This day commenced with strong gales from the westward with a high head sea running; weather dark and gloomy. The wind throughout these twenty-four hours con- tinued to blow strong from the westward, and being directly ahead, we found it impossible to gain to the westward, and were glad to hold our own without losing ground. During the day we had much thunder and lightning. Lat. by obs. 64° 1' S., long. 64° 0' "W. ^eh. 1st. — Last night the sky was clear for a little while in the zenith, when we saw the Magellan clouds nearly over our heads. This day had a continuation of strong gales from the westward, and very bad, stormy weather ; we, however, con- tinued to ply to the windward under close-reefed sails, but 21 322 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER SEA-SEKPENT. having a strong westerly gale and a lee curt-ent against us, we made but little progress. At 6 a. m. made Staten Land ; this land, like the Falklands, appeared cold and dreary, and only a fit habitation for seal and wild fowl, which are here very abundant. The sea in this vicinity also abounds in whales of monstrous bulk. At noon the body of Staten Land bore IST. by "W"., twelve leagues distant. At meridian the sun shone out, when we found our latitude to be 55° 31' S., long.- 64° 8' W. FeT). 2d. — ^This day, like the last, was dark and gloomy, with a continuation of westerly winds, but not so strong as to pre- vent our plying to windward under close-reefed sails. The thermometer fell down to 45° above zero. In consequence of contrary winds and a lee current, we gained but little on our course during these twenty-four hours. Lat. by obs., 56° 20' S., long. 65° 27' W. Feb. 3d. — On this day, when within about 50 miles of Cape Horn, a terrible gale commenced blowing from the westward. It continued to increase until it blew a perfect hurricane, and soon created a mountainous sea. We got our foreyard on deck, and hove the schooner to, imder the head of a new foresail. I then ordered all the bulwarks and waist-boards to be knocked away, that nothing might impede the water from passing over the decks ; otherwise, so great a quantity would have lodged in the lee waist, that our little schooner would have been water- logged and swamped with the weight of it. With crowbars and axes the waist-boards were all demolished ; then the sea broke over the decks and passed off without injury to our little bark, and she rose like a stormy petrel on the top of the sea, which threatened every moment to swallow us in its abyss. The ocean was lashed into a white foam by the fury of the tem- pest. The same weather continued with but little intermission for a space of five days. During a great part of this time it was almost impossible to look to windward, so violent were the hail and snow squalls. In the midst of this tempest, my officers and men behaved nobly ; the most perfect order prevailed ; not a whisper of fear or contention was heard during the whole of our perilous situation. To render the men more comfortable, I removed them all from the forecastle to the cabin, where they VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEE SEA-8EEPENT. 323 continued to live until we had fairly doubled the Cape and found better weather. My Italian passenger was terribly alarmed during the tem- pest, and entreated me, in piteous tones, to put away for Eio Janeiro. He said if I would do so, he would instantly sign an agreement to give me all his interest in the vessel and cargo. I resolutely declined his offer, telling him that while we had masts and sails, and the vessel would float under us, I would -never put back. This Cape is rendered more dreadful from the fact of its in- hospitable position, and being so far removed from any civil- ized port. It is a cold, cheerless, barbarous coast, where no pro- vision, or supplies of any kind, can be had in case of shipwreck or disaster, so that the greatest vigilance and perseverance are neces- sary to surmount the many obstacles that present themselves." Feh. ?>th.- — ^The gale abated, and we were again enabled to make sail and ply to the westward. Our faithful little pigeons had hovered about us during the long tempest, and now re- sumed the journey with us. "We got an observation of the sun this day at noon, and found ourselves in lat. 57° 33' S., long. 66° 12' W. Feb. 9th. — We had, throughout these twenty-four hours, fa- vorable gales from the IST. E., and open, cloudy weather. Made all sail and steered to the westward, gained 160 miles distance on a direct course, and every thing began to wear a more favorable appearance. "We made better progress this day than we had done since our arrival in these high southern latitudes. Lat. by ob- servation at noon, 57° 16' S., long, by chronometer, 71° 4' "W. Fei. IQth. — This day commenced with strong gales from the southward, with dark, squally weather ; under reefed sails, standing to the northward and westward, made a distance of 155 miles per log. Towards noon the sun shone .out, when we found ourselves, at meridian, in lat. 55" 4A' S., long. 74° 48' "W. We had now fairly doubled Cape Horn ; and hoped in a few days to descend to lower latitudes, and find warmer and better weather. It was now fifteen days since we made the Falkland Islands, so that we were from thirteen to fifteen days weather- ing Cape Horn, which is not an unusual length of time ; and 324: VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER SEA-SEEPENT. had our vessel been a good ship of three or four hundred tons, "we should have suffered nothing in comparison with what we experienced, in a deep-loaded, pilot-boat schooner, of one hun- dred and forty tons, leaking badly. From the 10th of February to the 16th, we generally had light and variable winds from the northward and westward, so that we made but slow progress during the week, and nothing worth recording occurred. Feb. 17th. — ^This day commenced with light breezes from the S. W., and fine weather. During the night, in a squall, a small fish was washed on boai'd. It weighed before it was di'essed about half a pound, and in appearance was not unlike a brook trout, except that it had a greenish color. I directed the cook to prepare it for my breakfast, and told him to fry it with a few slices of salt pork. At breakfast, I divided the fish be- tween my passengei", the chief mate and myself. We all ate of it with a good relish, and returned on deck ; but very soon af- ter were all taken sick ; the mate was seized with violent vom- iting, and became deadly pale and languid. The passenger was also sick, but not so much so as the mate. I was not very ill, but felt a burning sensation in my mouth and throat for sev- eral hours afterwards. Upon examining the scales and intes- tines of the fish, and the knife with which it was cleaned, we found them of a deep greenish color, indicating that the fish must have been very poisonous. What it was I know not, but it is remarkable that one of so small a size could poison three persons. During the remainder of this day we had light breezes from the W., and fine weather. We only made about 100 miles on our course thi'ough these twenty-four houi-s. At noon our lat. by obs. was 47° 56' S.,'long. 78° 17' W. From the 17th of February to the 22d we had light winds from the southward and westward, and generally good weather ; which daily became more bland and pleasant, as we approached lower latitudes. We met with nothing worth remarking du- ring the last five days. We were now in lat. 38° 45' S., long. 79° 29' W. Feb. 2i3d. — ^We had fresh breezes from the S. W. and fine weather throughout these twenty-four hours, and made 166 VOYAGE IK THE SCHOONEE SEA-SEEPENT. 325 miles distance to the northward. Lat. by obs. at noon, 36° 0' S., long, per chron. 79° 34' W. Feb 24:th. — ^This day commenced with fine, fresh breezes from the southward, and very pleasant weather, which we sen- sibly enjoyed after getting through those tempestuous regions into the bright and gentle Pacific Ocean, which daily became more and more mild and tranquil. At 8 o'clock in the morn- ing we made the island of Massafuero bearing N. N. "W., about eight leagues distant. At H a. m. it bore west, three leagues. This island lies in lat. 33° 45' S., long. 80° 38' W. It is a high, abrupt,, rugged-looking place, about fifteen or twenty miles long and perhaps five or six broad. The shores are very steep, and I believe it is only accessible on the northwest side, in a little bay, where boats can land in good weather. It has no harbor, notwithstanding it was formerly a famous island for taking seal. Some twenty-five or thirty years ago, sevei'al good voyages were made by ships from New England, which took seal-skins from this island to Canton, in China, where they dis- posed of them, and returned to the United States richly laden with teas and other China goods. One of these voyages was made by a ship called the JV^eptime, commanded by Captain Daniel T. Green (in which were two yoimg men belonging to my native town, from whom I obtained this information). This ship was owned in Hiew Haven, Connecticut, took from this island fifty thousand seal-skins and sold them in Canton for $2 each, and thence returned to JSTew York in the year 1799, with a cargo of teas, silk goods, nankeens, &c. The owners and crew cleared by the voyage about $100,000. This trade was carried on for several years very advanta- geously, until at length all the seal were killed or driven away from the island. The sealing ships were then compelled to search for a new field, in distant seas and on lonely desert islands, where the seal had never been disturbed by man. When they first commenced killing seal at Massafuero, the animals were so tame and gentle that thousands were killed with clubs. These poor animals, unconscious of the danger, made no attenipt to escape ; but in a few years after, they be- came so knowing and shy, that it was difl[icult to kill them, ex- 326 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE SEA-SEEPENT. cept by stratagem. I have subsequently seen them in differ- ent places along the coast of Peru, and found them so extremely wild and timid that they would plunge into the water when ap- proached, and at this time it is very difficult to kill them, even with spears and muskets. This day we also saw and passed by Juan Fernandez. This island is not so high as Massafuero, but is more fertile a;nd pro- ductive. It lies in latitude 33° 46' S., longitude 79° 6' "W. It belongs to Chili, and is about 400 miles west of Valparaiso. It has a tolerable harbor on the south side, and has been lately used by the Chilian government as a sort of Botany Bay for state prisoners. It has become a place of general interest to the world from its having been made the locality of Robinson Crusoe's adventures, by De Foe. It was now one hundred days since we left ISTew York, and we had still more than 1000 miles to sail before we could reach Lima, but as we expected to get into the S. E. trade-winds in a day or two from this time, I anticipated the remainder of the passage with pleasure. Feb. 2?>th. Throughout these twenty-four hours, we had fine breezes from the southward, and very pleasant weather. "We were now sailing with a fair wind, with all our light sails set. Our little schooner was well adapted to these smooth seas and gentle breezes ; we made 190 miles during the last twenty- four hours, and were at noon in latitude 30° 23' S., longitude 80° 28' W. Feb. 26th. Fresh breezes from the S. E., and clear, pleasant weather throughout these twenty-four hours. We had now taken the regular S. E. trades. It was delightful to sail before the wind in this mild climate and smooth sea (which is so appropriately called the Pacific Ocean), after having been buf- feted and tossed about off Cape Horn so long in so small a ves- sel. During the last twenty-four hours our little vessel made 200 miles with perfect ease, and almost without shifting a single sail. Lat. by obs. at noon 27° 4' S., long. 80° 28' W. From the 26th of February to the 5th of March, we had a continuation of the S. E. trade-winds, and fine, pleasant weather. > - / " k' I K.^-- -^^^>^x '/^ ^K VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEE SEA-SEBPENT. 327 running constantly on our direct course, and daily making from 150 to 200 miles. Our friendly birds, who had constantly followed us for the last fifty-six days, from the coast of Brazil and round Cape Horn, still kept about iis. They were not so constantly near our vessel as before we came down into these mild latitudes, but made little excursions and then returned. I sometimes missed them for an hour or two, and feared, in two or three instances, that they had entirely left us and would no more return to cheer us, but to my agreeable surprise they always came, were at this time within a few yards of our stern, and appeared attached to our little bark and to the hands that occasionally fed them. They were indeed a great source of entertainment, and their fidelity was a constant theme of conversation and interest to us. March 5th, 1822. This day commenced with light winds from the S. E., and, as usual, fine, clear weather. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we made the island of Lorenzo, bearing about N". E., 25 miles distant. At 8 in the evening we got near the island. It being too late to run into port, I concluded to stand . off and on under its lee, and wait until daylight to run in and anchor. March Qth. "We entered the Bay of Callao — the seaport of Lima — all well, after a passage of 110 days from If ew York. It was not until we came to anchor that our little guardian birds left us, and flew out of the harbor. ' We found Callao and Lima in the hands of the patriots (as the natives of the country were called), and the Spanish army retreated to the interior ; of course, the blockade was raised, and the object of my voyage in a great measure defeated. I have before stated that we purchased this little, fast-sail- ing vessel in order to evade the blockade by superior sailing ; otherwise it would have been more advantageous to the owners to have bought a larger vessel at a less cost, and far more com- fortable for me to perform a voyage roimd Cape Horn in such an one, than in a small pilot-boat schooner. After entering my vessel and going through the necessary forms at Callao, I forthwith proceeded up to Lima, presented 328 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER SEA-SEEPENT. my letters of introduction to several gentlemen, merchants re- siding in that city, and was not long in making an arrangement with Don Francisco X. Iscue, a respectable merchant, to take charge of my business, and act as my general agent and con- signee. Senor Iscue was a native of Old Spain, but was married to a lady born in Lima. He had an interesting family, was an honest, worthj' man, and a very correct merchant. Through this gentleman I disposed of that part of my cargo which was at all adapted to the market, such as provisions, and a portion of my manufactured goods. All the butter sold at one dollar per lb. Flour was at this time selling at thirty dollars per bar- rel. Some articles of my cargo sold at an enormous profit, while many others would not bring prime cost. Soon after my arrival at Callao, the ship America, Captain De Koven, of New York, arrived with a full cargo of flour. 1 believe he brought about three thousand five hundred barrels, which were sold at a very great profit. To Captain De Koven I sold my quicksilver at invoice price, which amounted to about $3,500. As all communication was cut off between Lima and the in- terior, I was unable to dispose of the quicksilver at any price, except to Captain De Koven.' He was bound to Canton, and took the article at invoice price to dispose of it in China. I sub- sequently lent him $11,500 in dollars (which, together with the quicksilver, amounted to $15,000), and took his bill on the owners of the America, in New York, for the amount at sixty days' sight. The owners of the ship were Messrs. Hoyt & Tom, Elisha Tibbets, and Stephen Whitney. I soon had all my cargo transported to Lima, and in about twentj' days after my arrival sold the schooner Sea-Serpent, for ten thousand five hundred dollars. Such goods as I could not dispose of at private sale I sold at public auction ; and on the 6th of June, 1822, closed the accounts of the voyage, and I am sorry to add, made little or nothing for my owners. My own private adventure sold tolerably well ; and what with my wages, commissions, etc., I made for myself what is called a saving voyage. I waited about a fortnight for a passage to Panama, but was VOYAGE m THE BEIG DICK. 329 unable to obtain one. On the 15th of June I was offered the command of the fine Baltimore-built brig IXck, burthen 207 tons, and only two years old. This vessel belonged to the Italian gentleman who came out as a passenger with me in the Sea-Serpent. He was desirous of employing the Diclc in the coasting trade on the western coast of Chili and Peru. I was also glad of employment for a few months, until the sickly season had passed away in Panama and Chagres (having decided to return to the United States by the way of Panama and across the Isthmus of Darien to Chagr6s.) The Italian was an honest man, but, not having been bred a merchant, relied on me to manage the voyage. After I had disposed of the Sea-Serpent, I paid off the mates and seamen, allowed each of them two months' extra pay, accord- ing to law, and then procured nearly all of them situations on board other vessels. Both mates, when I left Callao, were pleasantly situated as officers on board of English vessels coasting between Chili and Peru. The seamen got good berths and generous wages ; so that none of my crew were left in distress or unpro- vided with employment. As the owner of the brig had decided to proceed with her down the coast of Peru to Truxillo and Pacasmayo, and there purchase a cargo of sugar, rice, and such other articles of provision as were then much wanted in Lima, I lost no time in shipping officers and seamen, and getting ready for the voy- age, which, under ordinaiy circumstances, would require about two months to perform. On the 28th of July we were ready for sea. Callao is the seaport of Lima, and lies in lat. 12° 2' S., long. Y7° 4' "W., seven or eight miles west of Lima. Callao is strongly protected by forts, castles and walls, with broad and wide ex- terior ditches. To a stranger, the castles at first view appear like a small walled city. Outside of these vast and expensive fortifications, there is a considerable number of houses, maga- zines, and shops, generally lying along the bay, and in some places, extending back perhaps a short quarter of a mile. This village is called Callao, and the fortifications, the Castles of Callao. The road between Lima and the port is level 330 VOYAGE IN THE BEIG DICK. and good. The port of Callao is formed by a bay, which is sheltered by its own points and the Island of St. Lorenzo, which lies at the south entrance, about eight or ten miles distant from the Castles. As I have no map or book before me, and write entirely from memory, I may, perhaps, make some little error in the distance, but not in the main facts. Callao Bay is a fine, broad, clear expanse of water, deep enough for a line-of-battle ship in almost any part of it; and, on the whole, I should pro- nounce it a very safe and good harbor, particularly in this mild and gentle climate, where there are no violent gales or tem- pests. In this respect the inhabitants of this coast are favored beyond any part of the world I have ever visited. The oldest men in this country know nothing of a storm or a violent gale of wind ; so uniform is the weather, that the Fahr. thermometer in Lima rarely varies more than six or eight degrees. It generally ranges between 75° and 80°. Although it is sometimes hot at noonday, the nights are cool and comfortable, owing to the snow and ice on the mountains not very far distant in the interior. When Peru was a colony of Spain, Lima was a popu- lous and comparatively rich city ; but, in consequence of qon- tinued wars and revolutions, it has become poor. For the last eight years there had been a constant demand for young men to join the armies, which rendered the population less than it was previously. The city of Lima, the capital of Peru, lies about seven miles from the sea, and is pleasantly situated at the foot of the Cordilleras. The little river Eimac takes its rise in the mountains, runs through the city, and supplies the inhabitants with an abundance of excellent water. Over this stream there is a line stone bridge with six arches. On this bridge, and in recesses, are placed seats for the citizens, which renders it a favorite resort for the elite of the city. It is said, that before the revolution, Lima contained about eighty thousand inhabit- ants ; at the time of which I write it numbered only about sixty thousand, exclusive of the military, who, I should judge, were about eight or ten thousand. There are several large churches and public buildings, which have rather an imposing ap- pearance. The cathedral in the centre of the city, which forms the east TOTAGB IN THE BEIG DICK. 331 side of the Plaza Mayor, 'is the grand resort of all the better clashes of people, and is a pleasant place. In consequence of the earthquakes to which Lima is subject, the houses are gener- ally built low, not often more than one or two stories high, of very slight materials, namely, dried clay and reeds, with a light coat of plaster, and then whitewashed or painted. I believe that if it should blow and rain a few hours as it does sometimes in the Bay of Honduras, the whole town would be washed away ; but, fortunately for the inhabitants, it never rains in the city. The high and long chain of Cordilleras in the interior acts as a perfect conductor for the clouds and storms. There only, the clouds break and the win falls in torrents. It therefore becomes necessary, notwithstanding the heavy dews, to irrigate the fields and gardens in the neighborhood of Lima. The city is about two miles long, and one and a half broad. Through the principal streets water is conducted from the Kimac. This tends very much to cool and cleanse the town, which, if blessed with peace and a good government, would be a delightful city, bating an occasional alarm of earthquakes. A few weeks before my arrival, the Castles at Callao and the city of Lima, were vacated by the Spanish army and taken possession of by General St. Martin and Lord Cochran; the former at the head of 8,000 or 10,000 Chilian and Peruvian troops, and the latter, the Admiral, commanding the Chilian squadron of two or three frigates and several smaller vessels. I believe there was very little fighting, but a kind of capitulation agreed upon between the parties. The Spanish army marched out and retreated into the interior, when the Patriot army took possession with little or no bloodshed. Still the inhabitants of Lima were, during the time I remained there, in constant dread of a return of the Spanish army. The city and its dependen- cies were daily agitated and unsettled, and the whole country was convulsed with war. ITie Government was almost daily making forced loans and contributions upon the inhabitants, which caused them to secrete their money for fear of its being taken from them. Every fine horse, belonging to private indi- viduals, was seized for the use of the army ; even the horses of 332 VOYAGE IN THE BEIG DICK. foreigners were sometimes taken, but generally returned after a suitable remonstrance to the commanding officer. , This has been rather a long digression, and I will again re- turn to my narrative. The brig Dick, under my command, was ready for sea on the 28th of July. Before sailing, I wrote the particulars of the voyage to my owners, and also to my family up to this date, and the next day sailed for Truxillo, with the owner of the brig on board. It was 6 o'clock in the evening when we got under way ; had light winds from the S. E., and foggy weather during the night, and ran to the leeward under easy sail until daylight. July SOth. — During the first and middle part of these twen- ty-four hours, we had a continuation of light winds and thick weather. After running about fifty-six miles log distance, it lighted up, when we found ourselves in mid channel between the Islands of Mazorque and Pelada, which are about two leagues asunder. No observation of the sun, it being obscured by fog. 31s^. — ^First and middle part of these twenty-four hours light breezes from the S. E., with a continuation of cloudy weather. At 11 o'clock in the forenoon, we passed a schooner beating up the coast. We set our ensign, and indicated our wish to speak him, but the unsocial fellow would not shorten sail, and ap- peared to avoid us. At noon saw a ship running down to the westward. We continued to run along-shore to the northward, and made about 100 miles by the log. At noon our lat. by obs. was 10° 29' S., long, about 77° 50' W. Aug. Isi. — At 1 o'clock in the afternoon we saw the land, bearing E. S. E. eight or ten leagues distant. "We had light breezes and calm weather and only made ninety-six miles, run- ning down along the land, generally at a distance of ten leagues. Lat. by obs. at noon 9° 14' S. Atig. 2d. — Light airs from the S. E., and clear, pleasant weather. At 12, midnight, hove to and lay by until 3 a. m., daylight, when we made sail. At 5 in the morning, saw the island of Guanap, bearing S. E. about four miles distant. "We then hauled in shore. Brisk breezes at S. E. and fine, clear, VOYAGE IN THE BEIG DIOK. 333 pleasant weather. At 10 o'clock in the forenoon, the city of Tnixillo bore east, and in half an hour afterwards we came to anchor at Guanchaco, in seven fathoms of water ; the church at that place bearing E. by N. about a league distant. This is an Indian village situated on the beach, and the seaport of Truxillo. It lies in lat. 8° 8' S., long, about 79° 0' west of London. I should perhaps rather have called Guanchaco the road- stead or anchoring ground of Truxillo, for it certainly cannot properly be called a harbor. It is open to the broad ocean, and has nothing to shelter ships that touch or trade on this part of the coast. The Indians who live in the village of Guanchaco are expert boatmen, and with their own boats transport all the ' goods and merchandise landed at that port for Truxillo, or ex- ported therefrom. They are perhaps 500 to 800 in number, governed by their own alcalde and under ofl&cers, and live almost entirely by boating and fishing. The ships that touch here cannot with any safety use their own boats, and always employ the boats or canoes of the Indians, the surf being too high to ven- ture off and on without the aid of these men, who are almost amphibious. They are trained to swimming from their infancy, and commence with a small " Balsa," in the surf within the reefs, and by degrees, as they grow older and larger venture through the surf, and out upon the broad ocean. These " Balsas " are made of reeds bound firmly together, with a hole near the after end, for one person ; the forward end is ta- pered, and turned up like a skate or a Turkish shoe. Those for children are perhaps from five to eight feet long, and those used by the men generally about ten or twelve, and about as large in circumference as a small-sized barrel. An Indian placed in one of these Balsas with a paddle, bids defiance to the roaring billows and breaking surf. I have seen the men go off through it in one of these reedy boats, when it seemed impossible that a human being could live, and have with great anxiety ob- served them when a high rolling sea threatened to overwhelm them, watch the approaching roller, duck their heads down close to the reed boat, let the billow pass over them, like a seal or a wild duck, and force their way with perfect confidence '634: VOYAGE IN THE BEIG DICK. ^ through the surf, where no white man would for a moment dare to venture. One of these men would, for half a dollar, convey a letter from the shore through the surf, to a ship lying at anchor in the Eoads, when no boat dare attempt it. I was told that for a small sum of money, one of these Indians would take a valuable piece of silk goods (secured in oiled cloth and fastened round his body) on shore, and deliver it to the owner perfectly dry, even in a dark night. The moment they land, they take up the " Balsa," place it in an upright position in the sun to drain and dry, and thus it is kept ready at a moment's warning for any employment that may offer. While here, I used sometimes to amuse myself with throw- ing small pieces of copper coin into the water, to see the Indian , boys dive to the bottom and pick them up. I never could learn that any of these Indians were drowned, though the people of Truxillo told us of many accidents, when white men lost their lives in attempting to land in a high surf. The morning we arrived at Guanchaco, there came in also an English ship from Lima, and anchored near our brig. Very soon after, a large launch, manned with nine Indians, came alongside of us, to take the captains, supercargoes and passen- gers of both vessels on shore. As there was considerable surf on, great anxiety was expressed by the supercargoes and pas- sengers respecting the safety of landing. I had a conversation with the patroon of the boat, on the subject of landing. He said that if we would commit ourselves entirely into his hands, there was no danger ; and that he supposed the gentlemen would be willing to pay half a dollar each, if landed- dry and in perfect safety. This we all readily agreed to, and soon started for the shore. I think we were five in number ; and as we ap- proached the shore, a few yards outside the surf, the sea was terrific, and breaking " feather white." Some of the gentlemen were in favor of returning, but were soon overruled by the ma- jority. I attentively watched the eye of the patroou, who ap- peared cool and collected, and, by his manner, inspired me with confidence in his ability to perform what he had undertaken. He requested the gentlemen who feared the result, not to sur- vey the scene, but to lie down in the stern-sheets of the boat, VOYAGE m THE BEIG DICK. 335 and thus give him room to manage the boat according to his own judgment. ' At this moment, I saw a man on the beach, on the watch for a favorable instant for us to pull for the shore. He and our patroon made signals with a handkerchief on a cane. The boat's head was kept off shore until the signal was given and answered, to dash through the surf. In an instant, the boat was wheeled round with her head towards the land, when every man pulled to the utmost of his strength, and in a few minutes we were safe within the breakers. These strong, brave fellows, then took each a passenger on his back, and car- ried him ashore in great triumph. "We were all so sensibly touched with the conduct of these men, that many dollars were voluntarily thrown into their hats and caps ; and a thrill of gratitude passed over ray mind, that will remain with me till the hour of my death. "We call these people savages, and say that they are incapable of great actions. I defy the white man to contend with them in the management of a boat in the surf, on the sea-shore. The alcalde furnished us with horses, and we were soon on the road to the city of Truxillo, which is pleasantly situated on level ground, about eight or ten miles from the landing at Guanchaco. I think it contained, at this time, about eight or ten thousand inhabitants. There are two or three considerable churches ; many of the houses are well built, and have a com- fortable appearance. The ground and gardens around the city are well cultivated, and produce an abundance of excellent fruit ; and the whole aspect of the town and its vicinity is ex- tremely pleasant. Although this place is located so near the equator, the climate is not uncomfortably warm. There is, however, a great drawback to a residence in this place in the frequency of earthquakes. I was told by sofne of the most re- spectable citizens of Truxillo, that the town had been two or three times nearly destroyed by them, and that the great earth- quakes were generally periodical — say at intervals of forty years that some thirty years had now passed away without a very destructive one, and that they had serious fears they should experience another terrible convulsion before many years should elapse. 336 VOYAGE IN THE BEIG DICK. We found here no sugars or other produce to purchase, nor could we hear of any of conseqiience in the neighboring towns to leeward. Two vessels from Lima had lately been here, and to the adjacent towns, and bought up all the inhabitants had to dispose of. After remaining here a few days, my owner and myself re- turned to Guanchaco, without making any purchases, except some poultry and fruit for sea stores. On our way back to the landing, we passed over very ex- tensive ruins, which appeared at least two miles in length ; they were the remains of clay walls, and various fragments of what had once been an extensive city of the Incas. We saw also a large mound near Guanchaco. It was 60 to 80 feet high, and, perhaps, from 150 to 200 feet long. These mounds were no doubt made by the ancient Peruvians, and are found all along this coast. Some of them are very high and large, others quite small. I have seen a great vai-iety of Indian relics, that were dug out from these mounds, such as earthen drinking vessels, made to resemble cats, dogs, monkeys, and other animals; others, again, were made exactly to resemble a fish, with a handle on its back, and its mouth open to drink from. These articles were well executed, and of very fine clay. The present race of Peruvians are altogether incapable of manufacturing any thing of the kind equal to these ancient Indian relics. I have no doubt, if these mounds were fairly excavated, that a great vai-iety of valuable Indian relics could be found, which are now hidden from the world. We arrived at the landing on Thursday, Aug. 8th, in the afternoon, found too much surf on the beach to attempt going on board until the next morning, and as there was no hotel or tavern in Guanchaco, took up our abode for the night with the alcalde or chief magistrate of the village. This person was an intelligent Indian, who had in early life made several voy- ages to Manilla, and appeared familiar with all parts of the western coast of Peru. He seemed to be a sensible, judicious person, and managed and governed the people of Guanchaco in a quiet, paternal manner. During the evening, he entertained us with a narration of his voyages from Peru to the Philippine VOYAGE m THE BEI& DICK. 337 Islands, when Peru was a colony of Spain. He also related to us many anecdotes of his race, the ancient and rightful owners of this blood-stained soil. The high mounds all along this part of the coast appear to be monuments of their wrongs and sufferings, and call to mind the days when Pizarro, with his band of merciless ad- venturers, sacrificed thousands and tens of thousands of these innocent worshippers of the sun, robbed them of their gold, and finally despoiled them of home and country. Even to the present day, these poor people are not exempt from severe persecutions in the way of taxation and oppression. They are now forcibly taken from their quiet homes to fill the ranks led by military chiefs, and thus compelled to mingle in the deadly strife of contending parties. Whether the one or the other governs, it is to them only a change of masters, for they cannot be supposed to feel any interest for, or sympathy with, either of them. And thus it has ever been in this wicked and unjust world — the strong triumph over and oppress the weak. "When the Spaniards under the command of Pizarro overran and conquered Peru in 1554, the capital of the great Inca was Cuzco. Here he resided in princely magnificence, and was al- most worshipped by his subjects. Notwithstanding his great distance from the ocean, some seventy or eighty leagues, the story is common throughout this part of the country, that he was in the habit of eating fresh fish for his dinner daily taken from the sea. The order of proceedings was as follows. As soon as the fish were caught, they were placed in a basket and handed to a runner, who conveyed them some ten or fifteen miles and then committed them to the care of another, who gave them to a third, and so on to the capital. In this way the dis- tance was soon traversed. This mode of transportation is still prevalent in the moun- tainous parts of Peru. The runners are principally Indians. They caiTy the mails, and convey from one point to another, valuable and important articles of every description. The good alcalde had supper prepared for us, and placed mattresses and blankets on the tables for Mr. B. and myself. 22 338 VOYAGE IH' THE BEI& DICK. Previous to retiring to rest I took a stroll round the house, and saw, beneath a shed or back piazza, three of the alcalde's chil- dren, little boys, I should judge, between three and ten years old, lying asleep on a raw, dry bullock's hide, covered only with another. The air was chilly, and it struck me at the moment as inhuman treatment to expose children thus to the open air without other covering than a raw hide. I immediately in- quired of our friendly host why he thus exposed them. His answer was, that it was their general custom to harden and give them good constitutions ; that he himself was brought up in the same manner ; and being thus inured to the cold while young, they felt no inconvenience from it in after life. In the morning, the sea was smooth, and the surf not bad. After taking leave of the polite and friendly alcalde, we left Guanchaco in the Indian launch, got safe on board, and at 3 o'clock on the 9th of August, weighed anchor and made sail for Payta. After getting our anchor on board, we found the stock broken in two pieces, and thus rendered unfit for use. We steered to the westward along shore with a fresh S. E. trade- wind and pleasant weather. Through the night we had mode- rate breezes and a continuation of fine weather. At 5 o'clock in the morning, daylight, saw the islands of Lobos de Mer and Lobos de Terra, bearing S. W., three leagues distant. They are of moderate height, and without trees or cultivation. Towards noon, the winds became light, inclining to a calm. Lat. by obs. 6° 32' S., long, about 81° W. On the 10th, we had light winds and fine weather, and made but little progress on our course during the day, still steering down along shore with the land in sight. Aug. 11th. — This day, like the last, commenced with light airs and calm, warm weather. At 8 p. m.. Point de Ajuga bore E., two leagues distant. At daylight, saw Point de Payta, bearing N. E., eight leagues distant ; at 8, got near the Point, and steered up the bay of Payta. At 11, a breeze sprung up from the S. E., when we ran up the bay and came to anchor at noon, in nine fathoms of water, directly opposite the town. We had little or no cargo to dispose of, and as there was no freight VOYAGE IN THE BEIG DICK. 339 to be obtained, we remained here only twenty-four hours, and got ready for sea. Payta is situated on a fine bay of the same name, and is the principal seaport of Puira, a very considerable town in the in- terior, some ten or fifteen leagues distant from this place. The town of Payta is located very near the beach, and the whole surrounding country, for some miles distant, is a barren, sandy desert, not even affording fresh water. The inhabitants are supplied with this article, brought from a little river running into the head of the bay, at a distance of six or eight miles. The town probably contains about 1,500 to 2,000 inhabitants of all colors ; a great portion, however, are Indians, and a mix- ture of the Spanish and Indian races. The houses are generally built of cane and straw, with thatched roofs. It is a very healthy place, and the people, who are generally poor, live to a great age. It lies in lat. 5° 3' S., long. 81° W. of London, and is one of the best harbors on the western coast of Peru. It is a great resort for American and English whale ships. The bay of Payta is large and clean ; and, I believe, the whalers send their boats to the little river at its head, and soon get a bountiful supply of pure, wholesome water; at the same time, the ships are safe and quiet while they remain in this capacious bay. At two o'clock in the afternoon of the 12th, with a fine, fresh S. E. trade-wind, we sailed out of this bay, bound for Guayaquil, At 6 p. m., got abreast of Point de Parina, about a league off shore ; at the same time saw Cape Blanco bearing IST. f E., twenty-four miles distant. During the night we had fresh breezes, with a little rain. At 6 a. m., saw the land bearing from S. W. to N". E., five or six leagues distant. Lat. by obs. at noon, 3° 37' S. At this time Point Los Picos bore S. E., distant about four leagues. August 13tk. — ^This day commenced with light airs from the south, with very warm weather. At 4 p. m., passed near the American whale ship Rosalie, of "Warren, E. I., which was lying at anchor near Tumbes. This ship had been thirteen months absent from the United States, and had only taken 200 barrels of oil. 340 VOYAGE IN THE BEIG DICK. At 8 P. M., we came to anclior in five fathoms of water, near the mouth of the Tumbes river, the small Island of Santa Clara bearing IT. by W., distant about four leagues. Light wind at N. E. Here we lay at anchor all night. August lith. — This day commenced with light breezes from the ]Sr. E. and fine weather. At 8 a. m., got under way with a light wind from the N. W. by IT. The tide now commenced making up the river, which enaj)led us to gain ground, beating up with its assistance until noon, when the wind became more favorable, from the W. S. W. At 3 p. m., got abreast of the west end of the Island of Puna ; pleasant breezes and fine weather. At 7 p. M., we came to anchor in four and a half fathoms of water; the east end of Puna then bearing JN". K". W., four leagues distant. It being dark, and having no pilot on board, I judged it imprudent to make sail, and therefore remained at anchor during the night. August 15th. — This day commenced with clear, pleasant weather, with light winds and variable. At six a. m., received a pilot on board, at 8 got under way with the flood tide and stood up the river, which had now become more narrow, but was still deep and not difficult to ascend. The banks along the river, on both sides, are low ; but the land rises as you recede from the river into the interior to immense mountains, many of which are volcanic. "We continued to beat up the stream, and at 6 p. m., just before dark, came to anchor in the river opposite the city of Guayaquil in six fathoms of water, a short quarter of a mile off the town. It is about forty miles from Guayaquil to the Island of Puna, where the river pilots reside, and it is at this place that the river fairly commences, for below Puna it may more properly be called a wide bay or gulf opening into the sea. We found lying at Guayaquil some fifteen or twenty sail of vessels of different nations, four or five of which were American ships and brigs, among them the ship Canton, of New York, and the brig Cwnton; of Boston. The names of the others I do not now recollect. After lying here a few days, undecided what to do with or VOYAGE IN THE BEIG DICK. 341 how to employ the brig, my owner, on the 22d of August, sold his vessel, for $14,000, to John O'SuUivan, Esq., captain and supercargo of the ship Canton. Captain O'SuUivan gave the command of the brig to Lieutenant, now Captain Hudson, of the U. S. Navy. Lieutenant Hudson was, at that period, an active, vigilant young officer and a good seaman. From that time to the pres- ent date, 1858, he has been gradually rising in his profession, and almost constantly employed in active service. He was second in command with Captain Wilkes in the Exploring Ex- pedition in the Southern hemisphere, in which service he ac- quired great 6clat as a meritorious officer. Last year, he was selected by the government to command the United States Frigate " Niagara," to lay the telegraphic cable between Eng- land and the United States.* Captain Hudson has risen to dis- tinction entirely by his own merit, is highly beloved and es- teemed by all who know him in his native place, Brooklyn, New York, and it is with sincere pleasure that the author of these Voyages ranks Captain H. as one of his personal friends. Captain O'SuUivan loaded the Canton in this port for a voy- age to Upper Peru. At this time there were lying at Guayaquil two large Calcutta ships, with cargoes of Indian goods. From these ships. Captain O'SuUivan purchased the greater part of a cargo for the Dick. The balance was made up of cocoa, and a few other articles. Myself, officers and crew, were paid off, and left the vessel in charge of the new owners. I was anxious to return home to New York, and of course did not regret being sold out of employment. I had long been acquainted with Captain O'SuUivan, and was glad to meet him here. I also met with another acquaintance in the person of Francis Coffin, Esq., supercargo of the brig Canton. Mr. C. got a fine freight of cocoa for Cadiz. I think it amounted to $17,500. I was glad to have good fortune attend him, as he was, and is, if alive, an honorable, gentlemanly man, of sterling worth and high integrity. * Capt. Hudson was despatched a second time, for the same purpose, this year, and on the 6th of August, 1858, while this volume is passing through the press, arrived in the Niagara at Trinity Bay, Newfoundland, after successfully laying his half of the telegraphic cable. By this act he has perpetuated his name to the latest posterity. 342 VOYAGE FROM OUATAQUIL TO NEW TOEK. I was now living on shore, anxiously waiting a passage for Panama, to return home across the Isthmus. Captain O'Sulli- van had with him three or four young gentlemen, belonging to New York. These young men joined the ship Canton, in New Tort, as ordinary seamen, but not liking a sea life were anxious to return home. Captain O'SuUivan gave two of them liberty to leave the ship, but would not supply them with money. He told me, however, that if I thought proper to take them along with me, that he had no doubt their friends in New Yoi-k would refund the money I should expend in paying their passages back to the United States. As they were here destitute, I con- sented to take them, pay their passages and other necessary expenses to New Toi'k, and rely upon the honor of their fam- ilies to refund me the amount when we should arrive there. After waiting a few days, we heard of a small coasting ves- sel which was shortly to leave this place for Panama. She was a full-rigged brig, of about twenty-five tons burthen, with a cap- tain, boatswain, and eight men before the mast. A vessel of the same size in the United States would have been sloop-rigged, and provided with a captain, one man and a boy. In this ves- sel I agreed for a passage to Panama for myself and my two young American friends. This brig was called Los dos Her- mcmos. There were two other (Guayaquil gentlemen) passengers, besides myself and the before-named young men, who agreed to sleep on deck ; as I paid one hundred dollars for my passage, I was supplied with a berth in the cabin, if it deserved the name, for, in fact, it was more like a dog's kennel than a cabin. It had no windo-v\^ or sky-light, was nearly filled with bags and boxes, had only two berths, and no table. The two passengers belonging to Guayaquil occupied one of the berths, and I the other. Guayaquil lies in lat. 2° 12' S., long. 79° 42' W., and is about one hundred and fifty miles to the southward of Quito. The city of Guayaquil lies on the right bank of the river, and contains about 20,000 inhabitants ; and, although built of wood, a great portion of the houses are large, comfortable and well adapted to the climate. Several of the public buildings are VOYAGE FEOM GUAYAQUIL TO NEW YOKE. 343 spacious and firmly built, with tiled roofs, among which are the custom-house, college, and hospital. The city is located on low, level ground, and, of course, difficult to drain, which, at certain seasons of the year, renders it very unhealthy. The edu- cated classes of society are polite and hospitable. The ladies dress in good taste, and are decidedly the handsomest women on the western coast of this continent ; in fact, the beauty of the Guaj'aquil ladies is proverbial. The lower classes are a des- perate looking race. They are a mixture of the Spaniard, In- dian and Negro, and appear ripe for any kind of villany or disorder. The principal wealth of Guayaquil proceeds from the culti- vation of cocoa, which is their staple article. They also export timber, boards, hides and some tobacco. The cocoa planta- tions lie on both sides of the river for several miles above the city. It is brought to Guayaquil upon floating rafts of light, buoyant wood, called in this country Balzas, which are in general use for all kinds of transportation. Many of the poorer classes live upon them. They float up and down the river with perfect ease and safety. In them the cocoa is taken on board of the ships that load here. On these Balzas they erect tents and awnings, and thus protect themselves and their cargoes from the sun and rain. Along the river, and thence down to the sea- coast, the land is very flat, and in the rainy seasons a great portion of the low grounds are inundated ; consequently, the inhabitants in such places build their houses on large timbers, or posts, some eight or ten feet above the ground, and flnd it necessary to have ladders to get into them. "When flooded in the rainy seasons, they pass from house to house in boats. In this warm latitude, where the sun is nearly vertical, the weather is generally very hot, and the vegetation extremely luxuriant and rank ; consequently none but those born and reared in this climate can reside in these low lands on the banks of the rivers and creeks, with any degree of safety. To the eastward, some ten or fifteen leagues in the interior, you behold lofty mountains rising one above another, until at last the eye rests on the majestic Chimborazo. There it stands, 344 VOTA&E FEOM GUAYAQUIL TO NEW TOEK. a mountain on the top of other mountains, terminating in a lofty, sugar-loaf, snow-capped peat, alone, in its own grand and un- rivalled suhlimity ; and although some seventy-five or eighty miles from Guayaquil, appears as though it were within a very short distance. This grand sight, however, is not an every-day occurrence. On the contrary, one may remain at Guayaquil for several days, and even weeks, without getting a good view of the peak. When the clouds are dispelled, you h^hold the whole mountain, from the base to the top, in aU its beauty and grandeur. The sight of this sublime object richly rewards the traveller for the expense and privation of coming to this country. While I remained here the weather was extremely warm, and one can easily imagine that to be supplied with ice and ice-cream must have been a most acceptable luxury, and so we found it. As often as once or twice a week, I saw a flag hoisted at a favorite cafd, as a signal for ice and ice-cream for sale, announcing at the same time that some one had arrived from the mountains in the interior with a supply of ice, which was soon converted into excellent cream. Guayaquil is supplied with great quantities of excellent fruit, common to tropical regions. Pine-apples are very abun- dant and cheap, as are oi'anges, bananas and plantains. Water and musk melons are also cheap and plenty. The beef and mutton, as in most other hot climates, are indifferent, and the beef appears even worse than it otherwise would do, in conse- quence of the slovenly manner of cutting it up. They do not dress it as in other countries, but tear and cut the flesh from off the bone of the animal in strings, and sell it by the yard or " vara." As this is the first and only place in which I ever bought beef by the yard, I thought it worthy of notice in my narrative. About noon, on the 31st of August, the captain of the brig " Zos dos Hermcmos " sent me word that he was ready for sea, and wished all his passengers to repair on board forthwith. Not having much baggage to look after, I took leave of the few friends 1 had in Guayaquil, and hurried on board. On our way VOYAGE FEOM GUATAQTIIL TO NEW TOEK. 345 to the brig, we passed through the market, and purchased a large quantity of fruit for sea-stores. Among other things, I purchased some twenty or thirty large water-melons, which I found preferable to every kind of fruit. I never shall forget how gratefully refreshing we found them on a hot, calm morn- ing, under a vertical sun, with the thermometer at 85° above zero. We did not leave the town until 3 o'clock in the afternoon ; and, as the wind was light and variable, we drifted slowly down the river with the ebb tide, until about 10, when it became quite dark, and we anchored for the night. Here again I was pleased with what to me was a novel occurrence. Far away to the eastward, in the interior, I saw a great light and innumerable sparks of fire, which illuminated the sky, so as to render the scene vivid and beautiful. Upon inquiry, I found it was a burn- ing volcano, at a great distance in the interior. It appeared to be some thirty or forty miles distant, while it was, in fact, per- haps iifty leagues off. The next morning, at daylight, September 1st, we got under way, and made a short cut to the sea, through a passage to the northward of the island of Puna. Our brig drew very little water, and we were therefore able to pass through small rivers and creeks where larger vessels dare not venture. I soon discovered that our captain was a vain, ignorant, su- perstitious man, and knew nothing of navigation. Fortunately for us, however, our contrama6stre, or boatswain, was a good seaman and an excellent pilot. He was a native of Old Spain, and though deficient in education, was a discreet, respectable man. He disciplined and managed the crew, and left little or nothing for the captain to do, but eat, drink, smoke and sleep. The man was only an apology for a captain, and was in the habit of following the land along shore on his voyages between Guayaquil and Panama : whereas, in lieu of making a straight course, he prolonged his passage to double the number of days necessary. I had with me a quadrant and many charts of the western coast, from Guayaquil to Panama, on a large scale, and politely pointed out to him the true and straight course. I say politely, for I have ever found, that with the ignorant and su- 346 VOTAGE FEOM GUAYAQUIL TO NEW TOEK. perstitious of all nations, the greatest possible caution and deli- cacy must be observed wlien advising them, otherwise their self-love and jealousy take fire, and they become your enemies. This vulgar captain at first inclined to adhere to his own opinion, — said he had navigated this part of the coast for many years, and always with success, and was afraid of sudden chan- ges. His countrymen, the two passengers, however, fell in with me, and persuaded him to follow my advice, and endeavor to shorten the distance of the passage. The two passengers alluded to were merchants, or shop-keepers, who visited Panama occa- sionally to purchase and sell goods, and on their way up and down, used to touch at a small place called Monte Christi, to trade, and to this place we were now bound on our way to Panama. There were five passengers, — making, with oflScers and crew, a total of fifteen souls on board the " Dos Hermanos " — all of whom lived on deck, night and day, except the two Guayaquil ti'aders and myself. The contrama6stre had the entire manage- ment of the vessel, and appeared to be always on the watch, both by night and day. The sailors were not divided into watches, as is the custom on board of vessels of other nations, but all slept in the long-boat on deck, on a dry ox-hide, with another spread over them. "Whenever it was necessary to make or take in sail, they were all called ; and when the work was done, all lay down to sleep again. They appeared to work with alacrity, and were always ready to obey the boatswain without gnimbling. "We had been out but a few days before we en- countered much hot, rainy weather. At these times our situa- tion, in the little hole of a cabin, was deplorable. "When it rained violently, a large tarpaulin was spread over the compan- ion-way to keep the cabin dry. On such occasions, particularly in the night, the captain and the deck-i^assengers would crawl in for shelter, and I was often obliged to leave my berth, and struggle through the crowd to get a little air at the door to pre- vent suffocation. We were provided with only two meals a day ; the first, called breakfast, at about 11 o'clock in the forenoon, was taken always on deck. This meal was either a fricassee or puchero, VOTASE FEOM GUATAQTiIL TO NEW YOEK. 34:7 with bread and a little common, low Catalonia wine. The other meal we generally had at four or five o'clock in the after- noon, and it was composed of about the same in quality, served up in one large dish placed in the centre of the quarter-deck. Our polite captain always helped himself first, and then ad- vised everybody to do the same. The food of the sailors on the main-deck consisted of plantain and charque or dried beef. Thus situated, wo passed some days, creeping along at a snail's pace, and making but little progress on our course, with varia- ble winds, and very hot, calm weather. On Sunday, Sept. 5th, at daylight in the morning, we ran into the little bay of Monte Ohristi, and came to anchor very near the shore, in three fathoms of water. This is a clean little bay, with a fine sand beach, and a few small houses, called ranchos, at the landing. ' The town of Monte Ohristi is located three or four miles inland from the port, in an easterly direction. This lonely little harbor lies in lat. 1° 1' S., long. 80° 32' W. of London. It was quite des- titute of shipping, there being no vessel there except our little brig. We procured horses from the rancheros at the landiilg, and soon galloped over a pleasant road, to the town. It being Sunday morning, the whole town, or as the French say, " tout le monde," were decked out in their holiday dresses. Our cap- tain and the two Guayaquil traders had planned a great deal of business for the day, and were very impatient to attend mass, that they might proceed to its execution afterwards. Accord- ingly, we left our horses at a poor little posada, and then hurried to the church. I went with them near the door, and after hav- ing excused myself for leaving them, took a stroll about the town. Everybody appeared to be on the move towards the church, aiTayed in gaudy dresses, of bright red and yellow colors. These simple people seemed as fond of displaying their gay attire as children decked out in their holiday suits. After a little survey of the town, I entered a house for some water, when the following dialogue occurred between the master of the house and myself. After presenting me with a chair and giving me a welcome reception, he said, " I suppose you landed this morning from the brigantine, on your way to 348 VOYAGE FEOM GUATAQTJIL TO NEW TOEK. Panama ?" " Yes, I did so," I replied. " The captain and the passengers have all gone to mass, how is it that you did not go also — are you not a Christian ?" I answered I was, but having a very imperfect knowledge of the Spanish language, I pre- ferred walking about the town. I then took the same liberty with him, and inquired why he did not go. He replied that he attended early mass, and was always very attentive to his religious duties. He then questioned me on the religious faith and belief of my countrymen in England. I told him I was not from that country, but from Iforth America. He then called me an Anglo Americatio, and seemed to have a confused idea that we were the descendants of the English, lived in a distant region of which very little was known, and inquired whether our belief and faith was the same as that of the English ; that he had always been told that they were all heretics and un- believers. I told him the religion of the two countries was about the same, that neither of them were heretics or unbelievers. He expressed great surprise, and then asked me if we believed in " el Padre et Hijo y el Espiritu Santo." On my answering him in the affirmative, he appeared still more astonished, and said, then he had always been greatly deceived, that he had from his childhood been told by the priests and friars that the English were all infidels, and did not believe in the Trinity, nor yet in the " Holy Mother of God, the pure and holy Virgin Mary." I then told him there was certainly a great difference between the belief of his countrymen and mine, on the subject of worship due to the Virgin Mary, and holy reverence to a great many saints, but that the greater part of the churches, both in England and North America, professed to believe in the Ti-inity. He appeared very well satisfied with my explanation, said he had no doubt we had been misrepresented and slan- dered ; and that he would inquire further into the subject from the first intelligent Englishman he should meet. While I am on this subject, I will relate an anecdote that occurred one evening at the lodgings of Captain O'Sullivan, while I was at Guayaquil. Among other questions, the mis- tress of the house, a middle-aged, good looking lady, asked me whether there were any Jews in my country. I told her there VOYAGE FROM GTTATAQUIL TO NEW TOEK. 349 were many. She then asked me what they looked like, and whether they had tails. I was for a moment surprised, thought she was jesting, and hardly knew how to answer, — when she observed, that she had always been told that Jews were strange-looking creatures, and had long tails like cows hanging down behind them. She said she came to Guayaquil about two years before, from a village in the interior of Colombia, and that from her infancy she had been always told by the priests, that Jews had tails, and were odious, frightful-looking creatures. I was astonished at her simple ignorance, for she was not one of the lower order, but a woman of polite man- ners, and spoke the Spanish language with ease and grace. I have related these two incidents from a thousand other similar ones, that have come under my observation while travelling about South America, not with a view of exposing the ignorance of these honest, simple-hearted people, as objects of ridicule, but to hold up to the world the wickedness of these vile priests and friars, who delude and darken the minds of unfortunate beings, who are the subjects of their cunning priestcraft. In the United States, we abhor the military despot who enslaves and chains the body ; but is not the man who darkens and enslaves the mind, ten times more guilty than the military despot ? I can overlook with some degree of patience a great many faults and superstitious prejudices in the unedu- cated and ignorant, but have very little patience or charity for these vile leaders of the blind, who know better than to prey upon the ignorance and credulity of their fellow-men, either in matters of church or state. The wicked policy of keeping man- kind in ignorance, in order to profit by their want of knowledge, cannot but excite the indignation of all those who love their fellow-men. Monte Christi is situated on an undulating surface, moder- ately high, with one considerable church located on rising ground, in the centre of the town, which probably contains about 1,500 inhabitants. The houses are generally one story high, and built of sun-dried brick ; some, however, are two sto- ries, and have tile roofs. The weather here is so hot that the inhabitants keep within 350 VOYAGE FROM GTTATAQTTIL TO NEW TOEK. doors during the middle of the day. In the evening it becomes cool and pleasant. This town and its vicinity, like most other places near the equator, are subject to periodical wet and dry seasons. During the heavy rains, many of the people remove to the hills, taking their cattle and other domestic animals along with them ; and at the commencement of the dry season, return to their former habitations. I xmderstood that the dry seasons last from December to April, and the wet during the rest of the year. My stay here was so short that I could collect but little reliable information on the state of the country. I found the people generally a mixed breed of Spaniard, Indian and Mulatto. Our captain and the two Guayaquil traders, after mass on the day of our arrival here, arranged their commercial affairs with the principal shop-keepers of the town, and when we had partaken of a tolerable dinner at the little posada, we all mount- ed our horses about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, and returned to the port. Here we landed several bags of cocoa, and sundry boxes of merchandise ; and took on board some dry hides, and eight or ten bags of dollars ; and after renewing our sea-stores of plantain and live-stock, got under way just before dark, and steered out of the bay on our course for Panama. I learned from the two Guayaquil traders, that they were in the habit of leaving goods with the shop-keepers at Monte Chris- ti, to dispose of for their account, and always stopped on their way up and down from Panama to Guayaquil, to receive the amount of what they had sold, either in money or the produce of the countiy. I was surprised at the amount of the cargo and money transported in this trifling little craft. One of these gentlemen told me there were about thirty thousand dollars on board of our little brig, besides other valuable articles, which we were now taking to Panama, to pay debts and purchase merchandise for Guayaquil and the western coast of Colombia. I am thus minute on the subject of this small trading vessel, to show that although a craft of this description would not be considered capable or safe to make a sea voyage along the coast VOYAGE FEOM GUATAQTTIL TO NEW YORK. 351 of the States, here, the mild winds and smooth seas do not en- danger almost any kind of vessel that will float, whilst trading along the coast between Guayaquil and Panama. During the night, there was a pleasant little breeze from off the laud, and the next day, we had light and variable winds, with fine weather. At noon, I amused myselfj while sailing along shore, by taking a meridian observation ; and it so hap- pened that the sun was vertical, or directly over head, and I could therefore sweep his image with the quadrant all round the horizon, and fully realize that we were on the equator, and con- sequently in no latitude. Our longitude at this time was about 80° 00' W." from London. We continued to have light and variable winds, with occa- sional showers, for several days after crossing the equator. The weather during the daytime was. generally very warm, and we had little or nothing to screen us from the rays of the sun, in this small and very uncomfortable vessel. Our captain was an ignorant, ill-bred man, and took no pains to secure the comfort or convenience of his passengers ; — these evils rendered the time extremely tedious. We had, however, got about three de- grees to the northward of the line, and were now making a pretty straight course for Panama. By the persuasion of the passengers and myself, our captain consented to steer boldly on otir course to the northward, and not follow the land along the whole length of Choco Bay, as he was inclined to do. He had neither chart nor quadrant on board, and, upon reflection, I was not surprised that he should not venture far out of sight of terra firma. The contramaestre was a good seaman, and an excellent fellow ; and frankly acknowledged that he knew nothing of navigation, though he was well acquainted with the land, and could navigate up and down the coast almost by instinct. As we increased our latitude to the northward, the winds gradually freshened, and we got on without any material accident. On the morning of the 16th of September, 1822, we made Point St. Francisco Solano, and the land to the eastward of the entrance of the Bay of Panama. Point St. Francisco Solano ia a prominent headland, and lies in lat. 6° 49' N., long. 77° 47' W. 352 TOTAGE FEOM &TTATAQUIL TO NEW TOEK. We steered up to the northward, keeping in 'sight of the land on the eastern side of the bay, and found the coast clear and easy to navigate. Doi-ing the night the wind was light. The next day we made several islands lying in this beautiful bay, — and as the weather was fine and the sea smooth, it was very pleasant sail- ing among them. "We steered to the northward, and now saw the land on both sides of the bay. On passing the islands, we saw several men in boats employed in catching pearl oysters. The shells, I believe, are here of not much value, though considerable quantities are occasionally shipped from Panama to England. The next day, Sept. 18th, we came to anchor off the town of Panama, in a few minutes after went on shore, and for ever bade adieu to our captain and the brig Los dos Her- ma/nos. I was, of course, delighted to get on shore at Panama ; but not a little disappointed to find the city so badly supplied with hotels. Although there were two or three tolerable cafes, wherg one could get something to eat and drink, still, I believe, there was not a good hotel in the place. I was told that the best way of living there, was to hire a room or two, and then get a black woman to cook. I accordingly hired a few rooms for myself and my two young friends, and engaged a black woman to dress our food and keep the rooms in order. In this way we got along tolerably well, and without any great expense. To my satisfaction, I met here captain John Brown, of the schooner Freemason, of Baltimore. This schooner was lying at Chagres, and Captain Brown expected to sail for the Havana in about a fortnight. I engaged a passage with him for my- self and the two young gentlemen who came with me from Gruayaquil. The Freemason was the only American vessel lying at Cha- gr6s ; and we deemed ourselves fortunate in meeting with so good an opportunity to return to the United States, by way of the Havana. Captain Brown soon introduced me to his consignee, J. B. Perand, Esq., the American consul at this place. I found Mr. P. a polite, obliging man, and, to me, a kind friend. VOYAGE FEOM GUATAQUIL TO NEW TOBK. 353 As it was quite healthy at Panama, and very sickly at Cha- greSj I concluded to remain in the fonner city until the Free- mason was ready for sea ; and not having any business to do, had sufficient leisure to walk about the town and its precincts, and view the Key of the Isthmus, as Panama is sometimes called. The city of Panama lies at the head of a fine, broad bay, of the same name, sprinkled with islands which shelter the har- bor, and beautify the surrounding scenery. It lies in lat. 8° 59' N., long. 79° 22' "W. ; and, like most other towns built by the Spaniards, is strongly walled and tolerably well fortified. It belongs to the republic of Colombia, and contains about ten or twelve thousand inhabitants. The streets are generally regu- lai' — and many of the houses commodious and well built. Some of the public buildings are large and substantial, paiiicularly the cathedral and several convents, and also the college. The college of the Jesuits, however, is now but a ruin. The envi- rons of the town are pleasant, and the grounds in the neighbor- hood tolerably well cultivated. It was once a great place for trade, but had, during the last twenty or thirty years, gradu- ally declined in its commerce. There was, however, some little business still carried on ; and should a canal or a railroad be constructed across the Isthmus, Panama will revive again. The natural position of the city is excellent — and it will, in my opinion, at some future day, become a place of considerable importance. The tide rises here to a great height — (I do not recollect precisely how many feet) — at the full and change of the moon, but as near as I can remember, some eighteen or twenty feet; Large vessels anchor at a considerable distance from the town, and lie afloat at low water ; the small coasting vessels anchor close in near the walls of the city, and consequently lie on the mud at low tide. The inner harbor is quite dry ; the sand and mud flats extend off to a great distance, which at low tide give to the harbor an unpleasant aspect ; but at the flood, it rises rapidly ; the mud and sand banks are soon covered, and the whole scene is agreeably changed from dreary banks to a living sheet of healthful salt water. 23 354 TOTAGE FEOM GUAYAQUIL TO NEW TOEK. It often struck me wMle strolling about this town, how ad- mirably it was situated for a great commercial city ; with a wide and extensive coast — one may even say, from Cape Horn to Behrine's Straits, with innumerable islands in the vast Pacific Ocean — with an open and easy navigation to China, over a sea so mild and gentle, that it might almost be traversed in an open boat. All these facilities are open to this town on the Pacific ; and when we add to these its capacities of a general commerce on the Atlantic Ocean to Europe, the United States and the West Indies, its location surpasses every other on the face of the globe. And now, what is necessary to bring about this great result? I answer — a, just and good government, with a few enterprising capitalists, and five hundred young men from New England to give the impetus. Whalemen, merchant ships trading to China, coasting" brigs, schooners, sloops and steam- boats, would spring up like mushrooms ; and in a few years this place would become one of the greatest commercial emporiums on the globe. A practical, intelligent merchant, acquainted with the commerce of the world, will see by a glance at the map, that I have stated nothing respecting it either unreal or extravagant. A few days before we left Panama, Captain Brown made an arrangement with the municipal government of this place, or perhaps with an agent of the republic of Colombia, to take as passengers about eighty Spanish prisoners and their colonel, from Chagr6s to the Havana, and also a Colombian officer, by the name of Barientes (I think he was a major), to take charge of the business as commissioner. These Spanish prisoners, I understood, capitulated at Quito, on conditions that they should leave the country, and be sent to the Havana in a neutral vessel, at the expense of the Spanish government. The Colombian government agreed to furnish them with provisions, and pay Captain Brown a certain sum to land them at the Havana ; I think it was about $1800 or $2000. This money was paid in advance at Chagr^s. Captain Brown had now so far accomplished his business that I began to make my arrangements to leave Panama ; and for that purpose, hired a guide and five mules to transport Messrs. B. C. and A. D., my two young American friends, my- VOYAGE FEOM GUAYAQUIL TO NEW YOKE. 355 self, and our baggage, to Cruces. For the guide and the five mules, I paid forty-two dollars ; and after remaining at Panama fourteen days, on the 2d of October, at four o'clock in the after- noon, we left the city for Cruces. We travelled slowly along, — myself and the two young men mounted on the riding mules (tlie other two were loaded with our baggage), the guide gener- ally walking, in order to pick the best of the road and take care of the animals. He, however, rode occasionally on one of the baggage mules. The road for three or four miles after leaving the city was tolerably good, or rather the different foot-paths, for I saw nothing like a road on the whole route from Panama to Cruces. From Panama to the foot of the hills, a distance of about five or six miles, there is a gradual elevation, and nothing to prevent making a good road at a small expense. We passed over this part of the way rather pleasantly, and just before dark took up our abode for the night in a miserable posada, where neither a bed nor any thing eatable could be ob- tained. I got liberty to spread my mattress on the floor, — my young friends had each a blanket with them, and we all lay down in the same room ; and, though badly accommodated, were glad to get shelter for the night. At daylight, our guide called us to mount the mules and make the best of our way. Our bedding was soon rolled up, and packed on one of the animals ; and we resumed our journey over one of the worst roads I ever travelled — ^up and down hill, through mud-holes, and over stony ground. Sometimes we met with large boulders lying in the mud and sand, that had been washed out of the earth and not removed. Over these stones, many of which were the size of a barrel, we were obliged to pass. At other times the mules would mire above their knees, in passing through a deep slough. After getting through a low spot of mud and water, the next turn would bring us to a cut in the rocks, just wide enough for a loaded mule to pass. These passes are frequently made through the solid rocks ; and, as they have probably been used a century and a half, the mules' feet have worn large holes, and these are generally filled with water, so that the poor animals, whether going through the mud, slough, or rocky pass, have a difficult task to peiform. 356 VOYAGE FKOM GTJATAQUIL TO NEW TOEK. On the way, we frequently met with men carrying valua- ble goods on their backs to and from Panama and Graces. Al- most all fragile and valuable goods are conveyed across the Isth- mus by porters : such as China and glassware, clocks, and other merchandise. Coarser and heavier goods are transported by mules. During the day, we occasionally saw huts and small ranches along the road-side, mostly inhabited by a miserable, sickly-looking set of creatures — a mixed breed of the Spaniard, Indian and negro. There is very little cultivation of the soil. The hills and valleys are generally well wooded and watered, but in a wild, savage state ; and the people that vegetate here live by raising cattle, pigs, and poultry, and are extremely filthy and ignorant. The porters that convey goods on their backs from Cruces to Panama, are paid, I was told, from five to six dollars each way. The labor, however, is extremely severe, and none but the most hardy can long endure it. We could get scarcely any thing to eat on the road, did not arrive at Cruces until late in the afternoon, and then very much worn down with fatigue. Although the distance from Panama to Cruces is only twenty-one miles, the journey is tedious from the badness of the roads. Cruces is an inconsiderable town, consisting of some eighty or a hundred small houses, lying on the west bank of the river Chagres, about fifty miles above its mouth, at the head of nav- igation. The houses are one story high, and generally built of wood, with thatched roofs. The ground, on which .the town is situated, is pretty level, and about twenty feet above the river. "We found here comfortable accommodations, and had a good night's rest, after the fatigue of a long day's ride. The next morning, the weather being fine, I walked about the town. The inhabitants are generally shopkeepers and boat- men, with a small proportion of mechanics. As Captain Brown was still in Panama, I was in no hurry to push on, being told that this place was more healthy and pleasant than Chagres. His clerk, a young Spanish gentleman, whose name was Fran- cisco, joined us here, and was a friendly, polite young man, and very companionable. During the day, I hired a boat, or rather VOYAGE FEOM GUAYAQUIL TO NEW YOEK. 367 a large canoe, and four men to take us down to Chagres ; we were to furnisli our own stores. The canoes on this river are very large and long. They are made by hollowing out a solid tree of Spanish cedar. Some of them carry over' one hundred half-bairels of flour. Whole barrels are rarely brought to Chagres, owing to the difficulty of transporting them from Cruces to Panama. The canoe I hired for myself and the three other passengers was of middle size, and the price agreed upon to take us down was thirteen dollars. After having pur- chased stores for the passage, we got a good dinner, and re- mained at Cruces until near sunset, when we embarked. The canoes have hoops of bamboo bent over the after part of the craft, which are covered with water-tight awnings so that the passengers are sheltered from the sun by day, and the dews and rain by night. With our mattresses and blankets spread in the stern-sheets, we managed to sleep pretty well during the night. The river is not very wide, but generally deep and ex- tremely crooked, and runs down very rapidly. I should think it from a quarter to half a mile wide. Its banks are generally abrupt, and from thirty to fifty feet high. Near the river, the wood is frequently cleared off, with now and then a little vil- lage or a few small plantations ; but, receding a mile or two from the river, it appears like a vast forest, and a suitable hab- itation for wild beasts. In these jungles, one would imagine they could remain undisturbed by the slothful race of men who inhabit the Isthmus. The trees here grow to an enormous size, and vegetation is rank and green all the year round. Our lazy boatmen knew that we were not in a hurry, and therefore let the canoe drift down the stream pretty much all night, without rowing. Early in the morning, we stopped at a small village, and bought some eggs and milk for breakfast ; after remaining here about an hour, we pulled slowly down with the current. Soon after mid-day, we brought up again at a small landing-place, purchased a few trifling articles, and took our dinner under the shade of a flne, lai'ge, old tree on the bank of the river. This was on the 5th of October, and, at two o'clock in the afternoon, we re-embarked, and pulled down for our port of destination. At night-fall, it became dark and 358 VOYAGE FEOM GUATAQITIL TO KEW TOKK. foggy, and we did not reach Chagres until nine o'clock in the evening. As there was no hotel on shore, we went directly to the vessel, and had scarcely got on board, and taken out onr baggage, before it commenced raining, and continued to pour in torrents during the whole night. From ten o'clock till mid- night we had loud peals of thunder, and vivid lightning. At daylight, it ceased raining, but there was a dense vapor-like fog until about nine o'clock in the morning, when the sun shone out, and, as there was not a breath of wind, it was extremely hot and uncomfortable, and the exhalations were so dense and bad, that we found it difficult to breathe the foul atmosphere. This was on the 6th of October. Chagres is a small, insignifi- cant village, lying on low, wet ground, along the eastern bank of the river's mouth, in lat. 9° 21' N., long. 80° 4' W. of Lon- don. To the windward, or eastern entrance of the river, is a point of land, of moderate height, projecting somewhat into the sea, and forming a shelter for vessels lying at anchor in the mouth of the river, which here widens so as to form a sort of harbor ; this, together with the bar at the entrance, renders it a safe port from all gales of wind. To the leeward, and along the western bank of the river, the land is low, and overgrown with rank grass and high mangrove bushes. At 10 o'clock, notwithstanding the sun was shining with in- tense heat, I went on shore to take a look at the village, or town. We soon brought up in a " pulperia " or grog-shop, which ap- peared to be the only resort for strangers, there being no hotel or tavern in this miserable place. On the eastern point before mentioned, there is a small fort, at which, and about the town, there is a military garrison of perhaps thirty or forty sickly-looking soldiers. They are mostly mulattoes and negroes, badly clothed, and worse fed. The com- manding officer of this little garrison, and the great man of the place, was a middle-sized mulatto, about thirty or thirty-five years old. Captain Brown's clerk, Mr. Francisco, told me we had better call on the commandant or captain of the garrison ; that he no doubt expected all strangers to pay their respects to him on their arrival. This I was quite willing to do, and by all means to treat the public authorities with proper respect and VOYAGE FEOM QXTATAQtriL TO NEW TOEK. 359 attention. We therefore forthwitli repaired to the house of the commandant; we found him comfortably lodged in good quarters, and were received with much ceremony. He was dressed in full uniform, with two immense epaulettes, and as- sumed an air of consequential dignity ; he offered us wine, and made a great flourish of male and female attendants. This visit of ceremony lasted about half an hour, when we took leave, the commandant politely bowing us out of his premises. The Schooner Freemason was the only American vessel lying in port; there were two or three other small coasting vessels which are employed trading up and down the coast. Both of the mates and two of the seamen of our vessel were ill with the yellow fever, and hardly able to keep the deck ; and here we were to remain for several days, to wait for our passen- gers and their stores, which were to be furnished by the Colom- bian government, and brought from Panama. The stores for the eighty Spanish prisoners, consisted of charque, plantain and a small portion of hard biscuit. The colonel and the commis- sioner were better provided, and were to mess with Captain Brown and myself in the cabin. Captain B. had agreed to fur- nish water, and the poor, sick mates, hardly able to crawl about the deck, were endeavoring, with a few sailors, to get all the water casks filled up from the river before the captain should arrive. Previous to leaving Guayaquil, I became acquainted with an elderly, intelligent Spaniard, who had been for many years at Porto Bello and Chagres. He told me by all means to wear woollen stockings or socks during the time I remained at Cha- gres, to bathe my feet two or three times a day with brandy or some other kind of alcohol, and by no means expose myself to the night air or noonday sun. I strictly followed the old man's advice while I remained here, and have to thank him, with God's blessing, that I escaped taking the fever. I enjoyed ex- cellent health during my stay at Chagres, which is, perhaps, the most sickly place on the face of the globe. During the day, I observed the clouds were driven from the sea to the land, by the N. E. trade-winds, and when thus col- lected in immense masses, appeared to rest on the tops of the 360 VOYAGE FEOM GUAYAQUIL TO NEW YORK. lofty hills and mountains, which were crowned with forest trees. Soon after nightfall we began to see the lightning and hear the roar of thunder, until 9 or 10 o'clock in the evening, when the rain fell in sheets during the remainder of the night ; at about 10 o'clock in the morning it subsided, when the sun shone out so intensely hot, that I found it dangerous to go on shore with- out an umbrella. I have witnessed copious showers in other countries, but nothing to compare with the torrents that nightly fell here; I have also seen it lighten and heard it thunder in other parts of the world, but never saw or heard any thing to equal what I nightly witnessed in this place. Peal after peal rends the air, and to a stranger throws an appalling gloom over this doomed portion of the earth. As the history of one day is exactly that of another, I deem it unnecessary to write much more on the monotonous mode of life I led here. "With respect to the weather, it continued about the same while I remained in this place ; we had a bright, burning sun throughout the day, with torrents of rain dur- ing the night, accompanied with vivid lightning and loud thun- der. Although it is very easy to descend the river Chagres in a large canoe, well protected from the sun by day, and the dews and rain by night, it is not easy to ascend it against a very rapid current running from three to six miles an hour, accord- ing to the high or low stage of the water. Loaded canoes are often a week getting from Chagres to Cruces ; the men are obliged to track up the stream, and with boat-hooks haul up along-shore by the trees and bushes. To convey passengers, light canoes are taken, which generally make the passage in two days. If asked whether there is suf- ficient water in the river for a steamboat, I would answer that I believe there is, and no obstruction but want of sufficient em- ployment to support the expense of a boat. At this time there were very few passengers crossing the Isthmus, and too little trade to give any encouragement to establishing a steamboat on the river. On the 8th of October, Captain Brown arrived, with the Spanish colonel and the commissioner, Major Barientes, with all VOYAGE FROM GUA.TAQTJII, TO NEW YORK. 361 the sea-stores, both for the Spanish soldiers and the officers, and now. all was hurry and bustle getting ready for sea. The next day, I called with Captain Brown to pay our respects to the mulatto commandant, and take a memorandum from this man in authority, to purchase whatever he should please to order from Baltimore. Captain B. iiad already made two or three voyages from Baltimore to this place ; and as he expected to return there again in a few months, of course had a great many little commissions to execute for the elite of Panama and Chagres. On our arrival at the quarters of the commandant, we found him decked off in a new suit of gaudy uniform, — and here I witnessed a ludicrous farce between Captain Brown and the mulatto major. The latter was a vain, conceited coxcomb, evi- idently bent on showing off and playing the great man. Cap- tain Brown was a plain, blunt Scotchman, and understood not a word of Spanish, but endowed with a good understanding, and was by nature kind and benevolent. Independent of these qualities, it was his interest to keep smooth weather, and be upon good terms with the major; — he therefore waited with patience to receive the orders of the gallant commandant. I lament that I possess not the graphic powers of Dr. Smollett to describe the ludicrous. Captain Brown's secretary, Mi\ F. was seated at a table with pen, ink and paper, to note down the orders.of the mulatto gentleman, who, to show his learning, endeavored to give his directions in phrases of bad French, interlarded with a few words of English. He would now and then walk about for a few moments, and admire himself, from head to foot, in a large mirror suspended at the head of the room. Mr. F. modestly requested him to give his orders in the Castilian language ; but this plain dealing did not suit the taste of the major, who re- proved him for his presumption, and then would reverse the or- der, direct him to commence anew, and strictly follow the orders given in his own way. The animated gesticulations and pom- posity of the yellow major, and the unmoved indifference of the captain, formed so striking a contrast, that it was with the great- est difficulty I coiild command my risible faculties. This farce lasted about an hour, when we took our leave of "senor 362 VOYAGE FEOM GUAYAQUIL TO NEW YOEK. commandant," and left him to admire himself without inter- ruption. I can only imagine one reason why the Colombian govern- ment should place such a vain fool in the command of so im- portant a post, and that is, that the place is so unhealthy that no white man could live there. Oct. nth. — At 9 o'clock in the morning we weighed anchor, and with the boat ahead to tow, and a light air off the land, sailed out of the harbor bound to the Havana. After getting a mile or two from the river's mouth, it became quite calm. There we lay exposed to the hot sun for two hours, waiting for the sea breeze, to beat up to windward far enough to stand to the northward, and clear the land to the westward, and make good our course out of the bay. The schooner Freemason was a good vessel of about 100 tons burden, and a pretty fair sailer. In the cabin were the captain, the Spanish colonel, Major Barientes and myself. In the steer- age were the two sick mates, and the two young men that came with me from Guayaquil. The main-hold was left for the Spanish soldiers. Two of the crew in the forecastle were ill with the yellow fever, and the mates unfit for duty. Notwith- standing all these evils, we were delighted to leave Chagres for the broad ocean, once more breathe the pure sea air, and fly from pestilence and death. At 11 o'clock, after lying becalmed two hours, a breeze sprung up from the E. N. E., when we commenced beating up to windward ; and just at sunset, having made fifteen or twenty miles up along shore, steered to the N. N. E. all night with a stiff trade-wind from the east, and the next day, Oct. 12th, at 4 p. M., made the Island of St. Andrew. This island lies off the Mosquito shore, in lat. 12° 30' N"., long. 81° W. After passing this island we kept the trade-wind, and as it was light, we made but little progress during the night. At 6 a. m., soon after day- light, we made the Island of Providence. This island is of a moderate height, and lies in lat. 13° 27' K, long. 80° 39' W. of London ; distant about sixty miles to the northward of St. An- drew. We ran within a mile or two of Providence, namely to the westward, or in seamen's phrase, under the lee of the island. VOYAGE FEOM GUAYAQUIL TO KEW YOEK. 363 We contimied on our course to the northward, and passed to the windward of the numerous small islands, reefs and shoals, lying off the coast of the Mosquito shore. Just at night this day, Oct. 13th (sea account). Captain Brown was taken yery ill, and unable to come on deck ; the second mate was sick below, and the chief mate, poor fellow, so reduced from the effect of the fever contracted in Chagres, that he was with difficulty able to keep the deck during the day. We were now in a dangerous and very difiicult situation, sur- rounded with reefs and shoals, and no one to take the command of the vessel. The old Spanish colonel and Major Barientes saw our situation, and begged me, for God's sake, to take the command of the schooner. I was placed in a very delicate po- sition ; but under all the circumstances of the case, consented to do so. I mustered all the men in the forecastle, well enough to keep watch, and they numbered two. With these, my two New York friends, and the cook, I took command of the schooner ; and as the weather was dark and squally, 1 kept the deck all night, beating about in the passage until daylight, when we again got a strong trade-wind from E. N. E., and clear, pleasant weather. We were now clear of all the reefs and shoals, and made a fair wind for Cape Antonio, on the west end of Cuba. At 10 o'clock in the morning. Captain Brown was better, able to come on deck and resume the command of the schooner. The Spanish colonel was a gentlemanly man of about sixty. He had been, in the armies in South America seven or eight years, in many severe engagements, and always fought with honor to himself and his country ; but was beaten at last at the battle of Quito, where he and many of his countrymen laid down their arms and capitulated to be sent out of the country. He was indeed a war-worn soldier, and I fear had been poorly remunerated for his hard and severe sufferings. He was a kind, amiable man, with very modest, unassuming manners, and won the respect and esteem of all those about him. Major Barientes, the commissioner, was a iine, healthy- looking young man, about thirty or thirty-five years of age; had been several years in the Colombian service, and I have no 364: VOYAGE FEOM GUATAQUIL TO NEW YORK. doubt was a gallant fellow. He was now on his way to a colony of Spain, to deliver the colonel and the Spanish soldiers up to • the government of Cuba, and claim from it the money and ful- filment of the capitulation made at the battle of Quito. I was often amused with the conversation of these two gen- tlemen on the subject of the different battles fought in South America between their respective countrymen, each, of course, endeavoring to make his own superior and victorious. General- ly, their conversations and recitals were carried on in a good spirit ; sometimes, however, they would wax warm in these lit- tle disputes, I good-naturedly reminded them that here we were all friends together, and had no fighting to do ; this always brought them to a just sense of their relative situations, when their arguments would take a gentler tone, and end in mutual good wishes that the war between Spain and her colonies might soon terminate. I found them both well-lDred and agreeable fellow-passengers. The mates and seamen were now convalescent, and every thing went on smoothly. In a few days we made Cape St. An- tonio, and proceeded on our course without any incident worth remarking, until off Mariel, the day before we arrived at Ha- vana. Here we fell in with a Spanish sloop-of-war, ship-rigged, and mounting eighteen guns. She ranged up near us, and seeing so many men on our decks, either took us for a privateer or a pirate. Her guns were pointed, and every thing ready to give us a broadside, although so near that she could, no doubt, see we had no guns. Our captain exjpected every moment to re- ceive her fire. "We were lying to, when he hailed and ordered us to send our boat on board instantly, or he would sink us. We had but one boat, and it was dried up with the sun, so that the moment it touched the water it leaked like a sieve. Still the order was imperative and must be obeyed. Captain B. re- quested the colonel and myself to go on board, and show him the schooner's papers. We got into the boat, and with constant bailing, made out to get on board of the ship, though not in a very good condition, being wet up to the knees. We showed our papers to the captain, who was a very young man, and, VOYAGE FEOM GUATAQTJIL TO NEW YOJiK. 365 after a little delay, were requested to take seats on the quarter- deck. The colonel explained the substance of the capitulation, his misfortunes, &c., &c. The captain appeared rather to upbraid than sympathize with the good colonel, who was old enough to be his father. I felt vexed with the upstart. Our visit was of short duration. The captain of the ship neither invited the veteran to take a glass of wine, nor any other refreshment, nor was he at all polite. I sincerely regret I do not recollect the name of this worthy old warrior, who bore such treatment with so much patience. While in the boat, I observed to the colonel that his coun- tryman, the captain of the ship, did not treat him with the con- sideration and courtesy due to his rank and misfortunes. He mildly replied that he was a very young man, was probably promoted by family interest, and had little sympathy for the unfortunate. The ship soon made sail, and we steered on our course, and the next day, Oct. 28th, came to anchor at Havana, eighteen days from Ghagres. The health-boat soon came alongside, and we were allowed to go on shore. Major Barientes went on shore in full Colombian uniform, and, I was told, was well received by the governor, but whether he ever recovered the money due to his government, I ha7e never been able to learn. I took a kind farewell of these two worthy gentlemen, and we never again met. I was very anxious to get home, and as there was no vessel to sail soon for New York, engaged a passage to Philadelphia, on board the hermaphrodite brig Jcmies Coulter, to sail the next day. I advanced a small sum of money to my young proteges, taking their orders on their friends in ITew York for the amount I had already paid for their passages and other expenses, and left them under the protection of the American Consul at this place. The next day we got under way, and sailed out of the har- bor, bound for Philadelphia. I regret I do not recollect the name of the young man who commanded the J. 0. He was an active, capable shipmaster, and a worthy man. I had the good 366 VOYAGE PEOM GUAYAQUIL TO NEW YOEK. fortune to meet on board the James Coulter^ an old friend, Cap- tain Frazer, of Baltimore, and as we were the only passengers on board, were very happy to see each other, and renew our former acquaintance. We had formerly met in Europe, and now, after many years' separation, it was delightful to take pas- sage together. I do not recollect any thing remarkable during our passage home. Every thing went on in perfect good order, and we had a very pleasant voyage of only fifteen days to the city of Philadelphia. I paid $50 for my passage, and was well satisfied with both the vessel and the captain. We landed in the afternoon of the 14th of November, 1822. The next day I took the steamboat for New York, and arrived in that city at noon, the day follow- ing, after an absence of just twelve months. I had not received a syllable from home during my long and tedious absence, and was extremely anxious to hear from my family and friends. I therefore with precipitation hurried to the counting-office of my fi-iend. I met him, and not a word was spoken, but I saw in his face that I was doomed to be a miserable man, that I was bereft of the dearest object for me that earth contained. I conjured him to speak out and let me know the worst. I told him I was a man, and could bear grief. He then said that my wife had died in Brooklyn, on the 3d of October, and was interred on the 5th, that she had left me a fine little daughter, about seven months old. I forthwith proceeded to my melancholy abode. Although I was stricken and cut to the heart, and bereft of her my soul held the dearest of earth's treasures, still, what could I say, but repeat the words of a man more afflicted than myself, " The Lord gave, and the Lord hath taken away, and for ever blessed be his holy name." A few weeks after my return home, my worthy friend Richard M. Lawrence, Esq., who at this period was President of the Union Marine Insurance Company in New York, called at my house, and generously offered me a situation as in- spector of ships in that company. The situation had lately been vacated, and was now offered to me with a very handsome salary. I, however, declined the kind offer of my excellent VOYAGE FEOM GtTATAQTIIL TO NEW TOEK. 367 friend, witli many thanks ; not wishing at this time to remain .long on shore. Had my wife been spared me, I should have thankfully ac- cepted the offer, but being afflicted and disappointed in my an- ticipations in life, I was again cast adrift and almost alone in this world of change and disappointment. CHAPTER XXIX. VOYAGE FBOM NEW YORK TO THE HAVANA, AND BACK TO NEW YORK, IN THE SCHOONER SWAN, IN THE YEAR 1823. In the month of April of this year, I agreed with the Messrs. G. G. & S. Howland, of New York, to perform a voyage to the Havana, in the schooner Swan. This was a fine, large, Balti- more-built vessel, three years old, and burden 234 tons. We took in an assorted cargo on freight, for the Havana. The object of this voyage was twofold with the owners — namely, to dispose of the schooner in Cuba, and take out funds in gold to load a ship, belonging to them, called the Circassian. The Messrs. Howland sent out a young man with me, from their counting-ofiice, to purchase a cargo of sugar and coffee, at Matanzas. This cargo was intended for the Mediterranean market. At this period there were many piratical vessels ma- rauding the West Indies, and particularly about tlie Island of Cuba, so that fast-sailing, warlike-looking vessels, were preferred to any other description of ships ; consequently, the moment the Swan was announced as wanting freight for the Havana, the whole cargo was obtained in a few days, and she was ready for sea in less than a week, with a full freight. She was partially armed ; we had four six-pounders, sundry muskets, swords, pis- tols, etc. The crew consisted of two mates, with fifteen men and boys ; we had also two cabin-passengers. The chief mate's name was L , and a poorer and more inefficient creature never officiated as mate of a vessel. To use a seaman's phrase, he was neither soldier nor sailor ; and when he could obtain liquor, was always half-seas over. With this mate, and a very VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER SWAN. 369 inefficient crew, I was to perform a voyage to the Havana, with a valuable freight, and fifteen hundred and ninety-eight doubloons. I became, in a measure, responsible for the vessel and cargo, having signed bills of lading for the whole amount. It was of course expected that I should be able, in this vessel, to run away from every thing that floated the ocean ; and if not able to escape by superior sailing, doubtless must fight to the last ex- tremity, to defend the property ; and what was the remunera- tion for my services ? Why, fifty dollars per month, and a por- tion of the passage-money. I do not blame the owners for this small compensation, because it was a fair agreement between us. I merely state these facts, to show how poorly shipmasters were paid for the amount of responsibility they assumed, and ask whether, as a body, they were not worse paid than any other class of men, having the same arduous duties and respon- sibilities ; for when they have families, it must be a difiicult matter for them to live respectably on the slender allowance they receive. I shall make no further comments on this sub- ject, but leave it to rest on its own merits. The young gentleman sent with me by the Messrs. How- land, was Mr. H. Patterson, a Scotchman by birth, and well educated ; he was one of the best men I ever knew. Although young, he was a good merchant, and indefatigable in his exer- tions to promote the interest of his employers. We left New York at noon on the 27th of April, and as we had strong breezes from the southward, were obliged to beat down the bay. A great portion of the crew were intoxicated, so that I was compelled to hire four riggers to assist in beating down to Sandy Hook, and from then,ce retiirn in a pilot-boat to New York. At 6 o'clock in the evening, the flood tide made against us, when we came to anchor and lay until midnight ; we then made sail, and at one o'clock, a. m., got outside of Sandy Hook, where we discharged the pilot and the four riggers. At two A. M., the lighthouse on Sandy Hook bore W. N. W. ten miles distant, from which I took my departure. During the night we had strong breezes at N. N. E., with dark, cloudy weather. Monday the 28th, at daylight, we had a continuation 24 370 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER SWAN. of fresh breezes at IST. N. E., and disagreeable weather ; all hands emplojed clearing ship and securing every thing about decks. At eight, sent down topgallant-mast and yards, double reefed the foresail and mainsail, took the bonnet off the jib, and at ten a. m., took in the mainsail ; strong gales at N. E., now running off at the rate of eight or nine knots the hour. The sun came out just before noon, when, by a meridian observa- tion, we were in lat. 39° 9' N. I was sorry to find the chief mate altogether incompetent to perform his duty ; the second mate was a pretty good sailor, but not accustomed to command, and was in fact only an alongshore rigger ; and among the whole crew we had but three seamen, all the rest were ordinary sailors and very inefficient men. The masts and sails of this fine ves- sel were large and heavy, and required a great number of good, able seamen ; consequently I was obliged to carry but little sail, and endeavor by vigilant and active discipline to break in and train the mates and sailors by degrees to make and take in sail, and thus by constant practice enable me to carry more canvas and profit by the construction of this fine vessel. These schooners are built expressly for fast sailing, but require very skilful management and constant watchfulness ; otherwise they are very dangerous. A captain only accustomed to sail a ship, is not always competent to manage one of these sharp and deli- cately-built schooners. They have often been compared to a racehorse with an unskilful rider, when commanded by a man unaccustomed to manage them. I do not mean to say that a man thoroughly bred to the sea, and an able shipmaster, may not become a good schooner sailor, but I wish to be understood that it requires a great deal of practical experience to handle them properly in all climates, and in all kinds of winds and weather. If it be asked why I took with me such inefficient officers and men, I answer that I had no time to get better ; the owners were in great haste, and in five days after we commenced load- ing, we sailed with nearly a full cargo, and all was hurry, bustle and confusion until we got to sea. From the 28th of April to the 9th of May, say for a period of ten days, we met with nothing worthy of remark ; we had VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEE SWAN. 371 a variety of winds and generally fine weather. On Friday, May 9th, at five o'clock in the morning, daylight, we made the land near the south end of the Island of Ahaco, bearing W. N. W. four leagues distant ; the next day the winds were light and baffling, and the weather extremely warm ; the thermometer at noon stood at 88° in the cabin. The winds were so light through the day, that we did not pass the Hole-in-the-Wall until 6 o'clock in the evening. What is called the Hole-in-the-Wall is a natural arch in the point forming the south end of Abaco, and lies in latitude 25° 54' north, longitude 17° 16' west. Through this large arch, the sea generally breaks, and thus forms a conspicuous landmark for navigators that pass this island. The schooner Swan drew at this time over thirteen feet of water, and I judged it more prudent to pass round the Great and Little Isaac Eocks, than to cross the Bank ; consequently, I steered down to the westward, leaving the Bahama Bank, Stirrup's Key, and the Berry Islands on the larboard hand, and, on this course, passed round the Isaac Kocks, keeping close along the western edge of the Great Bahama Bank, to avoid getting into the Gulf Stream. May nth. — ^First part of these twenty-fom* hours light breezes from the E. S. E., and very warm weather. At nine o'clock in the morning, the wind being light and baffling, I came to anchor in eight fathoms of water, near the Little Isaac Eocks. These are several small rock islands lying on the edge of the Bank, and very conspicuous marks for this passage ; they are perhaps about seventy to one hundred feet high. There M'e lay until five o'clock, daylight, when we made sail again with a moderate breeze from the S. E. and fine weather. At eight A. M., passed near the Great Isaacs, with a stiff breeze from the S. E. and E. S. E. ; sailing to the southward, close along the edge of the Bank, and running at the rate of eight and nine knots per hour. "We were enabled, by keeping in white water and close on the edge of the Bank, to avoid the Gulf Stream. At meridian the island of Bermini bore south eight miles dis- tant, the wind became light and the weather very hot, the thermometer stood at 90° in the shade. Latitude by observation 25° 44' north, longitude 79° west. 372 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE SWAK. V2,th. — These twenty-four hoTirs commenced with mod- erate breezes from the S. E. and fine weather. At two p. m. passed within a league of Bermini ; we saw there a small pilot- boat schooner lying at anchor, in a snug little harbor formed by this and another small island. Thus we continued to sail dur- ing the whole of this day along the western edge of the Bank, under the lee of those small islands which lie generally in a straight north and south line, near the edge of the Bank. These islands form many good harbors for pirates and wreckers, and it always gives one a suspicious feeling to see small sloops and schooners at anchor among these lonely islands, notwithstanding they may sometimes be honest men working in their vocation, watching for vessels in distress, and catching turtle to fill up their leisure hours. At four o'clock in the afternoon we passed within a mile and a half of Cat Key. During the middle and latter part of these twenty-four hours we had fresh breezes from the E. N. E., and fine weather, and were enabled to make good progress on our course. At noon, we were in latitude by obser- vation 23° 59' north, and had made two hundred and ten miles distance per log during the last twenty-four hours. Tuesday, May IZth. — These twenty four hours commenced with moderate breezes, and fine weather. At eight o'clock in the morning, the Double-headed Shot Keys bore S. S. E., twelve or fifteen miles distant ; at nine saw a small schooner, full of men, coming out from among these keys ; she soon gave chase to us. The wind being light, she came up very slowly, which gave us time to load all our guns. After getting on deck our muskets, swords and pistols, I addressed the passengers, oflScers and crew, on the subject of defending ourselves against the schooner in chase of us ; I told them I believed him to be a pi- rate, and asked them whether they were all willing to fight, and sell their lives as dearly as possible ? They all, to a man, an- swered. Yes, and with three hearty cheers, said they were will- ing and ready to commence the action. I then observed that if any man wished to go below, to say so, at once. No one availed himself of my offer, except one of the cabin passengers, who was a Spaniard, by the name of Don C. F. He said he did not wish to fight, and had rather go below. I told him to VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEE SWAN. 373 retire forthwith into the cabin. I then locked up the forecastle and cabin doors, hoisted our pennant and ensign, and steered directly for the schooner. In a few minutes he tacked ship, got out his sweeps, pulled and sailed off as fast as possible, and soon returned among the keys. I suppose he took the Swan for a United States schooner ; and thus ended our expected engage- ment. The sea-breeze soon sprang up, and we hauled in for Cuba ; just before dark, we made the coast, about ten leagues to the eastward of the Havana. "We ran to the westward during the night, under easy sail, and at two o'clock, after midnight, made the light on the Moro Castle. At six in the morning, on the four- teenth, we ran into the harbor of Havana, and came to anchor, after a passage of fifteen days. We were soon visited by the health-boat, and got permission to go on shore. Ac(*ording to the directions from my owners, I consigned the vessel and cargo to Messrs. Gutieres & Morland, whom I found to be excellent merchants, and very honorable men. The next day we got a berth for the schooner at the wharf, and com- menced discharging. "We then advertised her for sale, freight or charter, and in a few days landed all our cargo. Mr. Pat- terson left this place in the first steamboat, for Matanzas, and took all the doubloons with him, which relieved my mind from much care and anxiety. I will here relate an incident to show the evil consequences of having a drunken mate. After the schooner was discharged, I told him to haul the Swan off from the wharf, and anchor her in a good berth, in the harbor. I was so much occupied on shore, that I could not attend to it myself, and therefore directed him to do it. The weather was fine, and the water as smooth as a duck pond ; still, this miserable man managed to get the vessel off into the harbor, and in dropping one of the anchors, let all the chain run out, and the schooner go adrift. The next day it cost me ten dollars to recover the anchor and chain. He also abused and iU-treated the men so much during the day, that six of them deserted the vessel, on the following night. These are evils that we, poor shipmasters, had to submit to in conse- 374 • VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEE SWAN. quence of intemperance, at this period, and I am now rejoiced to add, that I have lived to witness the glorious triumph of tem- perance societies over beastly intoxication and moral debase- ment among seamen. Tes, it gladdens the heart of every hu- mane man, to witness the great and glorious reform among sea- faring men, brought about by the best of all societies, the tem- perance reformers of our age. And who could have, for a mo- ment, imagined, that a few short years would have produced such a radical change in this class of usefal, though unfortunate men? When the subject of temperance was proposed, not a great many years ago, in New York, I must confess, I was an unbeliever in its practicability on shipboard. I said, it may, perhaps, be carried out in some measure, on shore, but it never can be with seamen — sailors cannot, and will not, do without liquor, nor will they ever be willing to go to sea without it, for it is, in fact, necessary to their very existence. I am now, how- ever, happy to acknowledge that I was entirely mistaken ; for, since that period, I have made many long voyages without a drop of liquor on board, and now find that nearly all the quar- rels and corroding vexation we used to have with both officers and men, grew out of that curse to human society, alcohol, in some shape or other. After waiting a few days, and being unable to dispose of the vessel, I concluded to take a freight, and return directly to New York. I will here insert copies of two letters that I wrote at this time to my employers, which will tell the whole story, better than I can now relate it. Messrs. G. G. tfe S. Howland, — Gentlemen : — Your esteemed favors of the 1st and Yth in- stants, are now before me. I have noted their contents, and re- gret to inform you that I am unable to dispose of the Swan at any thing like her fair value ; and the highest freight I can get offered to Europe, including primage, say to Havre, is one and a half cent per pound for cofli'ee. This I consider too low, par- ticularly when I can obtain a full cargo of coffee for New York, at three-fourths of a cent per pound, and have agreed with most of the shippers to consign their property to your house. I have VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEE SWAK. 3T5 now on board more than half a cargo, and hope to get full by the 28th inst., when I shall make the best of my way back to New York. I shall forward a duplicate of this letter by a vessel which sails to-morrow for ITorfolk, that you may be fully ap- prised of my determination in time to insure the Swan from this place to your city. 1 shall in all probability soon return, and therefore deem it unnecessary to detail every occurrence that has transpired during my absence. When we meet, I trust I shall be able to explain every thing to your satisfaction. I have a fair prospect of getting five or six cabin passengers, and although I shall not make you a great voyage, hope you will clear at least fifteen hundred dollars, and find the schooner in as good or better condition when she returns, than when she left New York. Mr. Patterson writes me from Matanzas, that your ship Circassian will probably sail from that port about the 10th of June. Very respectfully, I remain. Gentlemen, Your obedient servant, GEOEGE COGGESHALL. Havana, May 2ith, 1823. Messrs. G. G. & S. Howland, — Gentlemen : — For fear of accident, I herewith inclose you a debenture certificate of goods shipped by your house, on account of Don Carlos Fernando. I shall, of course, bring the other copy along with me, and am now happy to advise you that I have a full cargo of cofi'ee and sugar on freight ; coffee at three- fourths of a cent per pound, and sugar at about the same rate. The greater part of the cargo is consigned to your house. I re- gret I am not able, at this moment, to send you a freight list, neither can I say exactly how much it will amount to, but at a rough guess, think about eighteen hundred or two thousand dol- lars, including the passage money. I intend to clear out this day, and sail with the convOy in the morning. I have had much trouble with my chief mate, and a bad crew ; in conse- quence of which, 1 have been obliged to hire stevedores to stow 376 VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEK SWAN. the cargo, and am this day shipping sailors. I hope to be in New York before this reaches you, and am very truly, Your obedient servant, GEOEGE COGGESHALL. Havana, May 31st, 1823. I fortunately obtained seven cabin passengers at fifty dollars each. They were nearly all natives of Colombia and the island of Cuba ; only one or two of them spote English, but they were all agreeable, gentlemanly men, and behaved with great pro- priety. I will here remark, that I have frequently had Spanish passengers, and have found them easily satisfied, and generally less troublesome than those of any other nation. After getting every thing ready, we sailed out of the harbor at two o'clock in the afternoon, on the 1st of June, having been here seventeen days, bound for New York in company with six sail of Ameri- can vessels for different ports in the United States, under con- voy of the U. S. Schooners Greyhound and Jackall. At this period there were so many piratical vessels cruising around Cuba and the Bahama Islands, that it was not safe for American merchant vessels to navigate these seas without government protection. At six in the afternoon, the Moro Castle bore south, seven leagues distant. At nine o'clock in the evening, I was boarded by an officer from the, schooner Greyhound, under the command of Lieutenant Kearney, all the fleet still in sight. During the night we had light winds, and made but little pro- gress on our course. Mbndm/, June 2d. — ^These twenty-four hours commenced with light airs from the E. IST. E., and clear, pleasant weather. At 10 A. M. the convoy still in sight to the southward. Lati- tude by observation at noon, 23° 59' north. Longitude about 82° west. Tuesday, the 3d. — ^These twenty-four hours commenced with strong breezes at E. S. E., and cloudy weather, with a high head-sea running. At seven, made sail to the north- ward and left the fleet. At eleven a. m. spoke the schooner Jackall. She had also left the convoy, and was bound on a cruise in piu-suit of pirates. Latitude by an indifferent obser- VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEE SWABT. 377 vation, 26° 10' north. Longitude about 80° west ; two sail in sight. Wednesday, June 4tth. — ^These twenty-four hours commen- ced with strong gales at E. S. E., and S. E., with dark, squally weather. • The schooner under reefed sails, and going at the rate of ten or eleven miles the hour, on a straight course to the northward, and with the Gulf Stream in our favor, we were sail- ing at a great rate, and thus it continued to blow from the S. E. dui'ing the whole night. At noon, we found ourselves, by a good observation, in latitude 30° 28' north, longitude 79° 3' west ; so that we had diifered our latitude 4° and eighteen miles the last twenty -four hours, thus making a direct northerly course of two hundred and fifty-eight miles. Thv/rsday, June 6th. — ^First part of these twenty-four hours strong gales at E. S. E., and dark, cloudy weathei", with a high sea running ; middle part dark and rainy, steering to the north- ward under easy sail. At two A. m. split the jib ; close reefed the fore and main-sails. At six o'clock, daylight, it became more moderate ; turned the reefs out and made sail. Latitude by observation, 32° 40' north. Longitude about 77° 13' west. During these last twenty-four hours, we had only about half a knot northerly current. From the 5th to the 10th of June, nothing remarkable oc- curred ; we generally had baffling and contrary winds, and were obliged to beat about and ply to the northward the best way we could. On this day, however, we made the land near Cape Henlopen, bearing N. N. "W., about three leagues ; the wind being at N. E. directly ahead, with a high sea running, we stood off and plied to the windward under reefed sails, as the wind was blowing a strong gale from the N. E. : towards noon it moderated. Latitude by observation, 38° 11' north. Several sail in sight, spoke the schooner Curlew, bound to New York. Wednesday, June 14dh. — ^We had light winds from the east- ward, and clear, pleasant weather throughout all these twenty- four hours ; we were still beating to the northward, tacking gene- rally every four or six hours ; several sail in sight. At meridian 378 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONER SWAN. the wiDds were light, and the weather very warm. Latitude by observation, 39° 14' north. Thursday, the 1.5th. — These twenty-four hours commenced with moderate breezes from the southward, and fine weather. At noon this day took a pilot, and at two o'clock in the afternoon passed Sandy Hook. At four, came to anchor at the quaran- tine ground at Staten Island, after a rough and boisterous passage of eleven days from the Havana — all well. The health-boat soon visited us, and permitted all my passen- gers to go directly up to the city. The health-officer ordered me to discharge in lighters all our goods, which consisted of sugar, coffee, indigo, and sundry other articles of merchandise. This cargo was all taken up to the city, while the schooner was compelled to lie in quarantine. On the fallacy of this regula- tion, it is unnecessary for me to comment, and I will therefore leave the merchants and politicians to settle the question. In six days, all the cargo was discharged, in good order. The owners, at my request, sent down several lighter-loads of stone-ballast ; and on the 22d of June, I settled the voyage with the Messi's. Howland, was paid off, and I believe they were sat- isfied with my conduct and management of their business. I was just two months in their employ, namely, from the 22d of April to the 22d of June. And here I am sorry to add, that the worthy Mr. Patterson, sent out with me to attend to loading and dispatching the ship Circassian, took the yellow fever at Matanzas, soon after I left the Havana, and died in a few days, sincerely regretted by all those who had the pleasure of knowing him. Rema/rks and Comments on the Piracies in the West Indies, in the year 1823. At this period, the leeward "West India Islands swarmed with pirates, particularly around the Island of Cuba. The Isle of Pines, on the south side of the main land, was a famous ren- dezvous for them. There were also hordes of these wretches in the bays and creeks about Cape Antonio ; and whenever an un- armed vessel passed near, these miscreants would sally out, cap- VOYAGE IN THE SOHOONEE SWAN. 379 ture it, and not nnfrequently kill every soul on board. Scarce- ly a week passed without accounts of robberies and murders having been committed by these vile outlaws from all nations. I was peraonally acquainted with several individuals who were murdered by these desperate renegades. From month to month they increased in numbers and ferocity, and their barbarities augmented in proportion, until the indignation of England and the United States was aroused to avenge the death of the poor victims who fell into their hands, and whose blood cried aloud for revenge. In this just retribution, England and the United States combined to put them down ; and for that purpose, equip- ped suitable brigs, schooners and cutters, which were able to pursue them into shoal water, and there ferret them out in their hiding-places, and dens of death and pollution. Sometimes they shot them without mercy ; at others, they carried them to Ja- maica and E^ew Orleans. At the former place, more than fifty were hung at a time ; and at the latter, several were executed — the number I cannot state with precision. I deem it unnecessary to enumerate the difi^erent ships and vessels taken and destroyed about this time, and will only men- » tion a few which came within my own immediate knowledge, namely : the American brig Edward ; the captain and part of the crew were murdered, and their bodies thrown into the sea ; Brig Laura Ann, Captain Shaw, from Buenos Ayres, loaded with jerked beef, bound to Havana ; the captain, mates and crew were all murdered, except one man who secreted himself below ; they set fire to the brig, and then left her, after which he escaped on a piece of the wreck, and finally got safe to the Havana. While I was there in May, 1823, 1 conversed with an Ameri- can captain, who had recently arrived from the Isle of Pines with his mate and a part of the crew. He told me his brig was laden with salt from Cadiz, bound for New Orleans ; that he was taken to the Isle of Pines, where his vessel was stripped of all her sails and rigging, and then burned. The captain said, while they were seeking for hidden treasure, one of his men told the leader of the pirate gang that there were $2,000 hid imder the cabin floor, when they instantly seized the 380 VOYAGE IN THE SCHOONEK SWAN. captain, and were going to execute him on the spot : lie begged for mercy, and said there was no money on board, but if they found any he would not complain, but submit to his fate. They accordingly took the sailor, and after searching where he said the money was secreted, and finding none, the pirate captain said to him, " I will shoot you, you d — d rascal, for lying against your captain," and instantly ordered him to be lashed to the windlass, and had him shot on the spot. The brig being destroyed, the captain, mate, and a few of his men were released, and after landing on the Island of Cuba they walked to the Havana, glad to escape with their lives. I was told by several Americans who were concei'ned in the Havana trade at this time, that it often happened that the same coffee M'as sold in this market two or three times over ; that the spies of the pirates watched the vessels about to sail, and as soon as they left port would capture them ; take their cargoes on shore to some part of the coast, put the coffee into new bags, bring it back to the city and dispose of it as coming fresh from the plantations. At other times even this precaution was not attended to ; they would merely obliterate' the marks and num- bers, and dispose of it with impunity. It often happened that the former shipper would recognize his coffee, but was afraid to make a complaint. A captain of a Baltimore vessel, in the trade to this place, told me he was robbed on one of his late voyages, near this port, and that he recognized one of the principal pirates in the streets of the Havana, but dare not divulge the fact, for fear of assassi- nation. I mention these circumstances to prove that the pirates were aided by the inhabitants of Cuba, to an alarming extent, and that these statements cannot, with truth, be contradicted. During the height of these piratical days, I made several voy- ages from Europe to New Orleans, and always took care to avoid coming in sight of Cuba, and, if possible, to pass by Cape St. Antonio in the night. After the piracies were suppressed, many of these miscreants made their escape to New Orleans and other places, and went into the merchant service again, mingling with their fellow- men, as though they had been guilty of no crime. VOYAGE m THE SCHOONEE SWAN. 381 Seven years after this period, two or three of these desperate men who had escaped from Cuba, and thus far evaded punish- ment, were in New Orleans, and there shipped with Captain Thornby, in the brig Yineyard, for a passage to Philadelphia, in November, 1830. As soon as these men ascertained that there was a considerable sum of money on board, they decided to have it at all hazards, and not long after leaving port, con- spired to murder Captain T. and his mate, Mr. William Koberts, destroy the brig, and divide the money. Their leader, Charles Gibbs, and his associate in crime, Thomas J. Walmsley (a col- ored man), planned the bloody business. These hardened pi- rates had been long accustomed to robbery and murder, and probably desired a renewal of their former life. The crew of the Vineyard consisted of seven men exclusive of the captain and mate ; a portion of them, probably, united with Gibbs and Walmsley from motives of cupidity, and the remainder from the fear of losing their own lives by the hands of these desperate villains. Be that as it may, on the night of the 23d of November, fourteen days after leaving New Orleans, the bloody tragedy was performed ; the unfortunate captain and his mate were murdered, and their bodies thrown into the sea. There were fifty-four thousand Spanish dollars on board, and the day after the murder, they got the money and other valuable arti- cles on deck, and divided the spoil. They then steered for Long Island, and after getting near Southampton, manned the two boats, putting half the money into each, scuttled and set fire to the brig, and then pulled away for the shore. In the surf the jolly-boat filled, and a considerable portion of the money was lost. At length they landed on Barron Island, and there biiried in the sand what they had saved. Some of them soon divulged the whole transaction to the inhabitants of Southampton, when they were all arrested, taken prisoners to New York, and there tried in the United States Court, in February, 1831. Gibbs and "Walmsley were condemned to be hung on the 23d of April, and their bodies given to the College of Physicians and Surgeons for dissection. The others were acquitted. I had been acquainted with Captain Thornby for many 382 TOTAGE IN THE SOHOONEK SWAN. years, and always found him a kind, humane gentleman, and deeply regretted his untimely fate. After these two men were condemned to death, a friend of mine, captain in the United States Navy, and who was long employed in the laudable service of hunting out and punishing these desperate pirates in and around the Island of Cuba, told me he had the curiosity to visit Gibbs while in prison, and there conversed with him about the different gangs of these brigands and their places of resort, hiding holes, etc., etc. After a free communication, Gibbs said to my friend : " I suppose, Captain , you think it quite a difficult matter to make a pirate, but I can assure you it is not so ; on the contrary, I can make an excellent pirate in the course of a few weeks, even of a pious young man." On being questioned how, he replied as follows : " In one of our cruises we took a vessel with a ci-ew of some eight or ten men. Among them were two stout young fellows, who we thought would be useful to us, and therefore agreed among ourselves to make them join us. Accordingly, all the crew were killed in their presence. After this we put a rope around each of their necks, with a block to the main-yard, to hang them. They were then blindfolded. When every thing was thus prepared, we asked them whether, to save their lives, they would join us, and become pirates ? They gladly assented to the terms, which were not only to unite with us, but also to do all the killing required of them. Accordingly, the next ves- sel we captured, they performed all the butchery, and, in a few weeks, became first-rate pirates." CHAPTEE XXX. VOYAGE FROM NEW YORK TO CADIZ, AND THENCE TO ST. THOMAS AND ALVARADO, IN THE BRIG " NYMPH," OF NEW YORK, IN THE YEARS 1823 AND 1824. The Nymph was owned by Kichard M. Lawrence, Esq., and myself, jointly, and commanded by Freegift Coggeshall, junior. "We purchased this vessel in New York, on the 22d of August, 1823, and after making some little repairs, commenced loading her, on the Ist of September, with an assorted cargo of beef, pork, flour, bread, rice and other articles of provision for Cadiz. At this period Cadiz was besieged by a French army, com- manded by the Duke of Angoul^me, and blockaded by a large fleet of French men-of-war, consisting of twelve line-of-battle ships, several frigates, sloops-of-war and gunboats, amounting, in all, to twenty sail. Most of them were anchored at the mouth of the harbor. The King of Spain, Ferdinand YII., was at this time con- fined to Cadiz, and not allowed to leave that city ; he was, in fact, a state prisoner to the Cortes and to the generals command- ing the armies of Spain. The principal general and commander- in-chief of the Spanish armies, at this period, was Eiego. Know- ing that Cadiz was a strongly fortified place, I thought the town would probably hold out for several months, at least long enough to give me time to get there with a cargo of provisions before it should yield, and consequently, I predicated the success of the voyage on evading the blockade. The ITymph was a good sailing brig, burden 181 tons, or 1,600 barrels. We had a large quantity of butter and lard ; the whole invoice of the cargo amounted to $9,069. I was super- 384: VOYAGE m THE BEIG NTMPH. cargo, having taken a yonng cousin of mine as captain. I also took with me Mr. Edward Brown as chief mate. Mr. Brown had been in my employ for many years as master and mate, and was fully competent to act in either capacity, being a thorough- bred seaman, and a most faithful, trustworthy man. The Mr. B. here spoken of I have frequently mentioned in my early voy- ages, and, in particular, on one to the "West Indies in the "Betsey and Polly," of New Haven, in which vessel he was chief, and I second mate. With these officers and a crew of six men, we sailed from New York on the 10th of September. We cleared for Gibraltar, but in fact were bound for Cadiz. We had gen- erally light and contrary winds during the greater part of the passage, and made slow progress to the eastward. Every thing went on quietly, and in good order. We had an excellent crew and good officers. The brig, it is true, leaked a little too much for comfort, and the sailors were obliged to spend a great por- tion of their time at the pumps ; still, there was no grumbling or discontent, every one was happy, and willing to do his duty cheerfully. On the 12th of October, we made Cape St. Yincent, thirty- one days from ISTew York. The wind was light from the south- ward, and the weather clear and pleasant. I hauled close in shore, and the next day made Cape St. Mary ; at eleven a. m., it bore north three or four miles distant. Lat. by obs. 36° 55' N., long. 7° 62' W. I hugged the shore during the day, and spoke several fishermen, in the hope of getting some informa- tion respecting the blockading squadron off Cadiz, but found them so stupid and ignorant, that I could obtain no reliable in- telligence. I had been several times to Cadiz, and was well ac- qiiainted with the harbor and its vicinity, and therefore resolved to rely on my own resources, and trust to good fortune and per- severance. It was blowing fresh from the westward, and my plan was to pass rapidly through the fleet, so that in the confu- sion which would naturally be created by my sudden dash, I concluded it would be impossible for them to fire into my brig without doing more injury to each other than to me. On a dark night it is extremely difficult to throw shot into a small vessel, wlien quickly passing through a fleet. TOTAGE IN THE BEIG NYMPH. 385 I cautiously approaclied the port, got sight of the light-house just before midnight, and then hove to for an hour for the moon to go down. Thus far, every thing appeared to favor my pros- pects of success. At half-past twelve, midnight, it heing dark and somewhat squally, I filled away, passed the light-house at two A. M., and soon after let go my anchor in the inner harbor of Cadiz. Here I anxiously waited for daylight. I had seen no men-of-war at the mouth of the harbor, and began to fear that the blockade was raised, and impatiently watched the first dawn of the morning to ascertain the situation of things around me. Light soon came, and I found myself surrounded by the French fleet ; the ships-of-the-line and the frigates were at anchor off in the bay, while the sloops-of-war and gunboats were all around us. I was at first disappointed and chagrined at my bad for- tune, and observed to the captain that I feared I should never be able to profit by entering a blockaded port, as this was the second time I had been defeated in a similar attempt ; the first time, in the Sea-Serpent, we were too late entering Callao. He observed, " it is true we have 'been disappointed ; but I have no doubt you will surmount every difiiculty, and ultimately make a good voyage." I thanked him for his good opinion ; and observed, in reply, " that we should always be governed in this world by circumstances, and not repine at what had already transpired." It soon appeared that we had arrived a little too late. We got in on the 14th of October, after a long passage of thirty-three days, and the place had surrendered to the French fleet and army about a week previous to our arrival. Ours was the second American vessel that arrived after the city fell into the hands of the French. The Baltimore pilot-boat schooner Blucher ar- rived, with a full cargo of flour, four days before us, I think two days after the blockade was raised. "We were soon visited by the health-boat, and ordered to remove up the bay to the eastward of the city, and there per- form twelve days' quarantine, although every person on board was perfectly well. To enforce the quarantine laws, a small 25 386 VOYAGE IN THE BRIG NYMPH. Spanish government schooner, commanded by a lieutenant in the navy, with about thirty men, was placed in the quarantine- ground to watch me, and prevent my having any communica- tion with the shore, or any other boat or vessel, during the pre- scribed period of my detention. I did not regret being placed in quarantine for a few days ; on the contrary, I deemed it a privilege, under present circum- stances, to delay the sale of my cargo in a glutted port. Stag- nation always takes place on the removal of a blockade, and, as extremes generally follow each other in quick succession, I knew it was my policy to wait patiently a reaction in the market. There was a garrison of French soldiers and a large fleet to be fed, besides the inhabitants of the city, and the adjacent towns of Porto Santa Maria, St. Lucar, and many other small towns and villages in the vicinity of the once beautiful and flour- ishing city of Cadiz, now broken down, spiritless, and sinking under the pressure of party dissension, priestcraft, bigotry and foreign inteference. It is a singular fact that, in Spain, defrauding the revenue is not considered a moral wrong by a large portion of the people, and, by many, rather a merit than a disgrace ; they consider it as only falling in with the practice of the nation, from the king down to the petty contrabandista, who smug- gles a single pound of tobacco. This principle, sanctioned or connived at by so large a portion of the community, is, no doubt, one great cause of their degradation and approaching downfall. With the masses, the prevalent feeling is, that their rulers make bad laws, and that it is a virtue to break them in every way in their power. Among the upper classes, duplicity and intrigue are studied as a science, and, though parties may disagree in other respects, they each strive in a smaller or greater degree to defraud the church and state government ; still, perhaps, there is no country on earth where individual punctuality and honor are held more sacred than in Spain ; this principle is carried out to an aston- ishing degree even among the professed contrabandistas. While 1 was lying in this port, an American captain, from an eastern VOYAGE IK THE BEIG NTMPH. 387 port of the United States, who was rather " gi-een" with respect to the Spanish character, and knew not a word of the language, attempted to smuggle a considerable portion of his cargo, with- out the knowledge of his consignee in Cadiz. After disposing of several articles at a great profit, he grew hold, and gave his custom-house officer so small a compensation that a quarrel en- sued between them ; the officer, in a great rage, went on shore and informed against the captain ; the custom-house search-boat came immediately off to examine the vessel, and seize all the cargo not manifested. Fortunately for the captain it was very near night, and the officers had only time to find a few trifling articles, but made their arrangements to go off in the morning, and take out all the cargo not on the manifest. In the evening, after the custom-house boat left the vessel, the captain came on shore to the house of his consignee in a great fright, and told the whole story to Don H. I was conversing with the worthy merchant at the time, and he observed that he should be a ruined man if Mr. H. could not get him out of the scrape. Mr. H. heard the captain's story, and told him he had done very wrong to attempt smuggling on so large a scale, 'without any knowledge of the place or language, but directed him to keep cool and quiet, and said that he would get him out of trouble ; that it would necessarily cost considerable money, and he hoped it would be a good lesson for him hereafter to act more pru- dently. I told the unhappy, agitated captain to sit down and remain quiet, and leave every thing in the hands of his consignee. Mr. H. rang the bell for a servant, who soon appeared, and was ordered to request Mr. , the head clerk of his counting- office, to come to him without delay. The order was promptly obeyed, when he sent for the chief of a gang of notorious smug- glers, told him the whole story, and observed that every thing not reported on the manifest of the vessel must be taken out be- fore daylight the next morning, and the goods all concealed in a place of perfect safety, to be forthcoming when he should re- quire them. For a certain sum a bargain was made with this desperate man, that he and his comrades should perform their . part of the business in good faith. The merchant then gave the 388 TOTAGE m THE BEIG NTMPH. captain a note to the custom-liouse officer, or guard on board, to come directly to his house, and directed ,the captain to remain on board himself, and deliver every article of merchandise not inserted on the manifest to the smugglers. The guard came on shore, and agreed to keep out of the way for a fair compensa- tion, and to return on board just before daylight, and then be ready to assist the officers of the customs to find all the contra- band goods. Agreeable to promise, the smugglers took out all the goods during the night ; and the next morning, when the custom-house boat went on board, they found nothing but what was regularly entered, and thus the whole affair ended without further trouble. The merchant sold the goods very well soon after, and the captain saved his vessel and cargo by this adroit management of his consignee. It is absurd for a stranger or a parsimonious man to at- tempt smuggling in Spain. What I mean by a stranger is a man who knows nothing of the character of the people, and attempts to cheat the officers out of their proportion of the duties. In a word : with smugglers, and even with rob- bers, good faith must always be observed to the letter and the spirit. After this digression I will return to the question of right and wrong with respect to smuggling. I have before said that it is all wrong ; still, when a whole nation agrees to deceive and defraud the government, it is difficult for a stranger to stem the current. For example : I will commence with King Ferdi- nand VTL The liberal party declared him to be a vile bigot and a consummate hypocrite, and that he connived with the bishops and priests to gull and rob the people ; that his prime minister defrauded the nation of many millions yearly ; that the high officers of state pocketed all in their power for their own private purposes ; and thus this system of fraud and pecu- lation descended down to the petty custom-house officers, who are always ready to take the smallest " gratification " in the way of fee or presents. At this period, it was melancholy to see a whole nation'di- vided against itself. The liberal and enlightened party leaders were obliged to fly their country. Many members of the Cortes VOYAGE IN THE BEIG NYMPH. 389 went to Gibraltar and other places, to save their lives from the furj of the King's party. In fine, 'the French officers found it difficult to restrain the parties from destroying each other. Many of the best and most enlightened patriots of the country were cut off by treachery and violence ; and the general cry of the ignorant, bigoted classes, by night and day, was " Viva el Eey Fernando Septimo ; viva la religion catolica ; viva la in- quisicion ; abajo los infideles liberales." The government of France, under Louis XVIII., at this time sent a powerful army into Spain, under the command of the Duke of Angoul^me, to liberate and assist Ferdinand YII., and his party of priests and bigots, and to disperse and chase away from Spain the enlightened, patriotic band, who were endeavoring to regenerate their unhappy country. Thus the little light that began to dawn on this unfortunate nation was soon extinguished by the priests and ignorant classes, in combination with the old Bourbon party in France, with Louis XVni. at its head. At the expiration of twelve days I got pratique, and was al- lowed to discharge my cargo. By a regulation between the French and Spanish governments, flour and provisions for the French army and navy were admitted duty free. I accordingly sold my cargo to the French commissary, and by this arrange- ment made a freight on the whole. In about twenty-five days after my arrival, I had sold nearly all my cargo, and soon engaged a freight for Alvarado. During our stay here, we had much bad weather, which is generally the ease at this season of the year. Cadiz is very subject during the winter months, to strong gales from the westward and much rain. The unfavorable state of the weather prolonged my stay, and frequently prevented me from lauding any thing for two or three consecutive days. Having now sold and discharged every thing, my first care was to send home to my friend Lawrence all the money I had, except $1,300, which I kept to purchase sundry small articles to till up the brig : I also retained suffi- cient funds to pay all my port charges, &c., &c., while in Ca- diz. I remitted $2,000 to New York, by the schooner Imperial, Captain Gill, and also from Gibraltar, through Horatio Sprague, Esq., $5,600. My freight to Alvarado, exclusive of owners' 390 VOYAGE IN THE BEIG NYMPH. property, amounted to $3,000. Besides this, I had twenty-two cabin passengers, including men, women and children ; — ^for these, the price of passage was — ^for adults, $130, and half price for children and servants. The NympKs cabin was large, she having been formerly a Mobile packet. I made an arrangement with my captain and mate, for a certain gratuity, to lodge in the steerage, and had a small house built on the quarter-deck for myself, giving the passengers the whole cabin for their accommodation. Several of them were gentlemen and ladies of considerable distinction. They were generally military men, and among them were a colonel, a major, two captains and several lieutenants and their wives — mostly natives of Oaraccas and Porto Rico, who had been many years in the armies of Spain during the peninsular wars. Though some of them were native Spaniards, they all belonged to the liberal party, and were now leaving Spain to seek shelter and employment in Caraccas, Porto Rico, and other parts of Spanish America. About ten days before leaving Cadiz, while in the midst of apparent prosperity, I received a letter from my long-tried and worthy friend, Jonathan Lawrence, Esq., of JSTew York, giving me the melancholy intelligence that my only little daughter was no more. She died on the 18th of October, 1823, aged about eighteen months, after an illness of six weeks. She was a promising, interesting child, and this stroke of death was to me a most severe affliction. One little year had but just elapsed since the decease of my beloved wife, and I began sensibly to feel that " 'Twas ever thus ; from childhood's hour I've seen my fondest hopes decay ; I never loved a plant or flower But it was first to fade away ; 1 never nursed a dear gazelle, To soothe me with its soft black eye, But when it came to know me well, And love me — it was sure to die ! " I will not indulge further in my own grief, but again resume the thread of my narrative. • VOTAGK IN THE BEIG NTMPH. 391 It was a sad sight to witness the persecutions practised against the leading men of the liberal party. They were, as I have before said, flying in every direction. Some of the most talented and conspicuous were so obnoxious to the tyrannical government of Ferdinand VII., that in many cases they were afraid to apply to the piiblic authorities for passports. Several of my passengers were placed in this unpleasant predicament ; and I was happy to have it in my power to aid them in making their escape from Cadiz. For example, Colonel Munoz, in a sort of disguised dress, took ray arm at twilight, passed through the gates of the city, and went on board my brig, where he re- mained quietly unobserved for two days before I left Cadiz. A day or two previous to our sailing, Captain Letamindi, of the Spanish army, applied to me for a passage for himself, wife and two children. I had then eighteen passengers engaged, and had no more room in the cabin. He was extremely anx- ious that I should take him with his military friends. He said himself and family would lodge anywhere I should choose to place them, and put up with any kind of fare ; that his means were nearly exhausted, and that he could pay me but $100 for himself and family. His friends and former companions were all anxious that he should go, but none of them were over- stocked with money. They all said Captain L. was an excellent man, and that his wife was a chai'ming, lady-like person ; and if I would consent to take them, they ( the passengers) would club together and purchase stores for him and his family. I told Captain L., that if himself and family would consent to sleep in the after hold of the brig, I would have a room fitted up for them there, and endeavor to make them comfortable ; that they should eat at the table with the cabin passengers, and, if his friends were willing to provide him with some little ne- cessary stores, they could do so ; but if tliis was not perfectly convenient to him, I would lay in enough for every person on board. Captain Letamindi and his wife were delighted at my offer, and forthwith embarked. "We got all our stores and passengers on board on the 5th, and the next day, Dec. 6th, at eight o'clock in the morning, sailed from Cadiz bound for St. Thomas, after remaining in that 392 VOYAGE IK THE BEIG NYMPH. port fifty-three days. At noon we discharged the pilot outside the harbor. Had light airs from the N". "W"., and fine weather. At five p. M., the light-house bore east, five leagues distant. As usual, a large proportion of my passengers were sea-sick during the first two or three days ; after which time, however, they all recovered, and appeared to be happy and agreeable to each other. The winds were light and the weather generally good for several days. At eight o'clock in the morning, on the 13th of December, we made three islands called the Deserters, in the neighborhood of Madeira. These islands lie in lat. 32° 22' N., long. 16° 25' W. Three days after, at five o'clock in the afternoon, passed near two small islands called tho Salvages. I have on a former voyage described these rock islands, and will only remark that they lie in lat. 30° 13' K, long. 15° 42' W. The next morning at eight o'clock we saw the Peak of Teneriffe, bearing S. by "W"., seventy-five miles distant ; at ten a. m., saw the Island of Palma, bearing S. "W., about ten leagues off. December the 18th, at noon, passed very near the Island of Gomera ; the weather be- ing fine, I ran close in shore on the S. E. side of the island, and hove to ofi" the little harbor of St. Sebastian. I sent the mate and two seamen, with two of our Spanish passengers on shore in our own boat, to get a few casks of water, and if possible, some poultry, and a sheep or two. The mate returned in about an hour without water or any thing else. The Governor sent word that he had no provisions in the town, but if we could wait until the next morning, he would send into the couniry for sheep, poultry and various kinds of fruit, and that we should be supplied with all the provisions and water we required. I was inclined to take him at his word and remain off the harbor until the next morning, but most of my passengers objected ; they said the island belonged to Spain, and they were afraid they should be detained if once placed in the power of an ignorant Governor. I reluctantly complied with their request, and left the island and the same little port at which Columbus first touched for water and fresh provisions, in 1492, sixteen days after leaving Palos, in the bay of Cadiz. He left Gomera on the sixth of September, after remaining there sixteen days ; this VOYAGE m THE BEIG NYMPH. 393 island lies in lat. 28° 6' N., long. 17° 8' "W. The next day we took the N. E. trade-winds, and ran down to the southward and westward, precisely on the same track taken by Columbus on his first voyage to St. Salvador, in 1492. We now had fine weather, and constant fair winds day after day. We took our meals under an awning on the quarter-deck, and every thing went on pleasantly, and all appeared happy and contented. In the evening, the sound of the guitar, accom- panied with sweet voices, beguiled the time, and the whole scene was peace and tranquillity ; I never saw a more agreea- ble company of passengers on ship-board than were these ladies and gentlemen. Not an tmpleasant word was uttered during the whole voyage, to mar our social intercourse and friendly enjoyment. So far as my experience and observation go, the educated classes of Spain are very social and agreeable. For many days, running down the trade-winds to the west- ward, we averaged about one hundred and seventy miles per day, scarcely shifting a sail. During this passage I had many a long conversation with Colonel Munoz, Captain Letamindi, and the other military gentlemen, on the situation of Spain, both with respect to its then moral and political position. These gentlemen had been for many years attached to the armies of Spain, and one of them was perfectly familiar with all the court intrigue at Madrid, having been for some years attached to the royal household. It is true they all belonged to the liberal party, and appeared to have very little feeling or charity for their opponents : stiU they were perfectly acquainted with the state of the nation, and I have since found that their representations and prognostications were just and true. They all averred that the leaders of the liberal constitutional party had made a great mistake in exercising so much lenity towards the priests and bigots of the royal party ; and in particular their famous leader. General Riego, who at one time had the supreme power in his own hands, and who boasted that he should be able to regenerate the nation, and give them a permanent con- stitution and a liberal government, without shedding a single drop of blood. This visionary belief, and too much confidence in royal honor, cost him his life, and overthrew his party, not- 894 VOYAGE IN THE BEIG NYMPH. withstanding he had spared the life of Ferdinand the Seventh on several occasions when he was within his power, particularly in one instance when the king and General Eiego were on their way from Madrid to Cadiz, and were obliged to pass through a certain town where the people were very much in- censed against him, and threatened to destroy him. Ferdinand, fearing an outbreak, and trembling for his personal security, took the general by the arm, calling him his Querido Eiego, and begged him for God's sake to save him from the fury of the populace ; but mark the contrast between the conduct of a lib- eral, humane general, and a bigoted, hard-hearted king. "When the tables were reversed, and he and his party came into power by the assistance of the French, he ordered General Eiego to be tried by a military tribunal, who condemned him to be pub- licly executed at Madrid. At the execution, the fury of the bigoted populace knew no bounds ; they cut his body into a thousand pieces, and vied with each other in desecrating his re- mains. Even at this time many of the best patriots and the most enlightened men belonging to Spain, were hunted and pur- sued like wild beasts. The grand mistake the liberal party made was, in not cutting off the heads of the royal leaders, breaking up the convents, and destroying the power of the priests. Had such a man as Napoleon or Bolivar been at the head of the constitutional party, the whole nation would, long ere this period, have been radically and thoroughly regen- erated. It is vain, in an old, corrupt country like Spain, to think of a thorough and permanent reform without much blood-letting, and of this fact all the enlightened men of the nation are now fully convinced. One of these gentlemen told me that during Eiego's administration, committees were appointed to visit every part of the country, converse with the small farmers and peas- ants, endeavor to establish schools among them, to enlighten them and their children, and diffuse elementary and useful books through the whole nation. This gentleman told me he was one of the number, that he had visited and conversed with many of the country people, stated to them that the object of the constitutional party was to reduce their taxes, educate their VOYAGE m THE BEI& NYMPH. 395 children, and in every respect to benefit their condition. He said they would listen to his representations, and for a moment appear to concur with him, but at the next breath, the force of habit and superstition would predominate, and then their an- swer was, that all these things appeared good and fair ; still, said they, we are told that the liberal party wish to destroy our faith in our holy Catholic religion, and make infidels of us and our children ; and certainly, if this is the case, it is far better for us to live here in ignorance and poverty for a few years, than to have all the wealth the world can give, and then die and go to a place of torment for ever. He said it required the patience of a saint to talk with the poor, ignorant peasantry, and with old people it was a hopeless case to expect any change for the better ; but when their children were removed to the towns and cities, they had been successful in training them to think a little on the subject of popular instruction, and had not France intermeddled with their quarrels — even without a master spirit at the head of the nation — they would eventually have succeed- ed in bringing about a general reform. These patriotic men sighed over the unhappy state of their country, and one of the ladies wept like a child when she took her last look at Cadiz. She said she loved her country, and hoped to revisit it again when God should bless them with a liberal government, founded upon just and enlightened principles. On "Wednesday, January 7th, at four o'clock in the morn- ing, we made the Island of Deseada, bearing west, five leagues distant. Two hours after, we saw the Island of Guadaloupe. The wind was constantly from the eastward, and the weather fine, and thus we sailed down among the "West India Islands, passing one and making another ahead, which created renewed interest to my passengers, and kept up a very pleasant excite- ment during the whole day. Jim. 8th, 1824. — In the morning we passed St. Kitts, St. Eustatia and Saba Islands. We had fresh breezes from the N. E., and fine, pleasant weather. At noon, Virgin Gorda Island bore north, ten miles ; St. Croix in sight, bearing southwest, fif- teen miles distant. At four o'clock in the afternoon, came to 396 VOYAGE IN THE BEIG NTMPH. anchor at St. Thomas, after a passage of thirty-two days from Cadiz, every person on board in perfect health. Jan. %tli. — Landed all my passengei's, twenty-one in num- ber, except one, (a native of Vera Cruz, a female servant, sent from Cadiz by her friends in that city to her family in Vera Cruz.) The greater part of my passengers left St. Thomas in a few days for Caraccas, some few went to Porto Eico and La- guira, and with the exception of four of them, namely, Captain Letamindi and his family, whom I subsequently met in Guaya- quil, we probably separated forever. I parted with these ladies and gentlemen with sincere regret, and should be most happy to meet them again, if chance shoidd ever throw us together. At St. Thomas I discharged my young captain, he being de- sirous to return home. I here laid . in a fresh supply of cabin and ship stores, and also purchased sundry articles to dispose of at Alvarado, such as a few barrels of sugar, sundry bags of cof- fee, and some other small articles. "We also had some calking done on the brig, got both pumps repaired, &c., &c., and after lying in the port of St. Thomas eight days, made sail at seven o'clock in the morning, on the 16th of January, bound for Al- varado, in the G ulf of Mexico. For several days after leaving St. Thomas, we had moderate breezes from the N. E. and E. N. E., and generally averaged about one hundred and thirty miles distance per day, during a period of three or four days. We ran down to the westward, along the south coast of the islands of Porto Eico and St. Domingo, and thence along the south side of Jamaica. In this vicinity we experienced much calm weath- er, and were in sight of the island for the space of five days. The passage thus far had been extremely long and tedious. On the 2oth, a fresh breeze sprang up from the N. E., and fine weather ; we now steered more to the northward, and ran through the passage between the west end of Cuba and Cape Catoche, and then along the coast of Yucatan. The Nym^h leaked badly, and the leak appeared to increase daily. After getting clear of the north coast of Yucatan, we experienced a norther which blew with great violence ; double reefed the top- sails, and furled the mainsail and trysail, and though the wind blew tremendously, the weather was quite clear. This gale oc- VOYAGE IN THE BEIG NTMPH. 397 curred on Sunday, February Ist, in lat. 22° t' N., on the Catoclie bant, in twenty-five fathoms of water. The next day the weather moderated, when we again made sail and steered on our couree with light winds from the eastward. On Friday, the 6th, made the high land on the coast of Tobas- co, and the next day saw Point Eoca Partida. The latitude of this point is 18° 43' JST., long. 94° 59' W. We had, during the day, light winds from the eastward, and clear, pleasant weather. On the 9th, in the morning, we arrived off the bar of Alva- rado. The entrance to the harbor lies between two sand-banks, some thirty or forty feet high. These sand-banks render Alva- rado a very blind port, and I found it very diificult to discover the gap or entrance until we approached within a short distance of the bar. At one hour after noon,- we took a pilot and ran over the bar, and at three o'clock came to anchor, and moored ship with two bower anchors ; twenty-three days from St. Thomas, all well. I felt myself extremely fortunate in getting safe into this little port; the weather was fine, with a light breeze from the N. E., and a very smooth sea. There were only ten and a half feet at this time on the bar, and the JVymph drew about ten feet, so that we had very little water to spare. I here employed the very respectable house of Messrs. KeiUy & Suberville, to assist me to transact my business. I found in this port but a small number of vessels, and nearly all of these were American : the brig Merced, Captain Kussell, and the schooners Dolphin, Captain Copeland, and I''ly, Captain Van Dine, of New York ; there were also two or three small vessels from Philadelphia and Baltimore, one TJ. S. schooner, com- manded by Lieutenant Zantzinger, and I think two Mexican schooners ; one of them was the Ana/mac, Captain Cochran. These schooners were placed here to guard and protect the trade at Alvarado. At St. Thomas I cleared out for ISTew Or- leans as a precautionary measure, and put into this port in dis- tress, so that if I should meet with any difficulty in consequence of my having loaded in a Spanish place, I should have liberty to leave it, and pursue my voyage to New Orleans. We had some difficulty for a day or two at the custom-house, on the siabject of allowing me to enter and discharge my cargo. The 398 VOYAGE m THE BEIG NYMPH. question grew out of the construction of a decree of the Mexican government, passed in the- city of Mexico, on the 8th of last October. That decree allowed the goods and productions of Spain to be admitted into Mexican ports until four months after the passage of the act, and then declared that all the goods and productions of Spain brought into Mexico after the expiration of the four months, should be seized and confiscated to the Mex- ican government. I arrived at this port on the 9th of February, one day after the expiration of the four months, but as the law was not pro- mulgated here until the 14th of October, it still gave me four or five days to enter and discharge, and so it was finally construed and settled, that I should have liberty to discharge and sell my cargo. The fact is, the government wanted the duties, and the people wanted the goods. In the management of this voyage, I made one grand mistake. If in lieu of sending my funds home from Cadiz, I had laid them out in the goods and products of Spain, I should have made an immense voyage for myself and my friend. The small amount that I invested for paper, oil, raisins, etc., in Cadiz, say about $1,300, sold here for $4,200, and netted, after paying duties, commissions and all other charges, $3,500. Barrels of wine that cost $9, were here worth from $35 to $40, and small barrels of brandy $50 per barrel. Oil that cost in Cadiz $1 per jar, was here worth from $5 to $6 ; paper that cost in Cadiz $2 per ream, brought $7 ; raisins that cost but 90 cents per box, I sold for $3, and almost every other article in a like proportion. The whole country appeared to be quite bare of the goods and productions of Spain, and my little cargo commanded almost any price. At this period the castle of Sam, Juan de UUoa was in pos- session of a Spanish garrison, and no vessels were allowed to enter the harbor of Vera Cruz ; consequently the whole com- merce of Vera Cruz was carried on through Alvarado ; this was the nearest port, and could only be entered by small vessels. The castle of Sam Juam de UUoa was at war with all Mexico, it being at this time the last and only place where the Spanish flag was flying on the continent of America, except Callao, the seaport of Lima. VdTAGE IK THE BKIG NYMPH. 399 I had now, after some difficulty, obtained permission to land my cargo, and early in the morning, on the 11th of Feb., com- menced landing some light articles in our own boats. At noon, however, we were obliged to stop discharging, clear the decks and prepare for a violent norther, which had commenced in good earnest. We sent down top-gallant masts and yards, braced the lower and topsail yards to the wind, veered out a long scope of chain cable, and made every other preparation to ride out a violent gale from the north. The U. S. schooner /Shark, commanded by Captain Stevens, was lying at anchor at Point Liserdo, some eighteen or twenty miles distant from Alvarado, and as the Spanish garrison at San Juan de Ulloa was at open war with Mexico, Captain Ste- vens was closely watching the trade, both at Vera Cruz and Alvarado. He was an active, vigilant officer; and always ready and willing to protect his countrymen and their com- mercial interests. Not long previous to this period, Peter Har- mony, Esq., of New York, had placed in the castle of San Juan de UUoa a considerable amount of property, for safe keeping, and being anxious to avail himself of the influence of Captain Stevens to recover and secure it from both of the belligerent parties, wrote to Captain Henry Russell, commanding the brig Merced of New York, to open a communication with the castle, through the influence of the commanding officer of the United States squadron in the Gulf of Mexico. Captain Eussell com- municated his wishes to Captain Stevens, on the subject of pro- ceeding with him to the castle of San Jua/n de JJlloa. Captain Stevens promptly complied with the request, and said he woiild proceed with him the next day. Captain Stevens was at this time at Alvarado, in his gig boat, with his second lieutenant, Mr. Hobbs, four stout seamen and a cockswain ; besides his own boat's crew, he took with him Captain Henry Kussell and George Dekay, Esq. The last named gentleman went with them as interpreter, being perfectly familiar with the Spanish language. After having provided themselves with all ne- cessary stores for the voyage, at seven o'clock in the morning, on the 11th of October, they started from Alvarado in this little boat for the schooner Sharls, then lying at anchor at Point ■400 VOYAGE Iff THE BEIG NTMPH. Liserdo, in a direct line with tlie castle. "When they left the port, the weather was fine, and not wind enough to rufiie the water. After taking leave of their countrymen on the beach, they started — to use their own words — " with light hearts and joyous spirits," alternately sailing and rowing, expecting in a few days to return and meet us, and talk over the incidents of the boat voyage to the seat of war. They proceeded slowly on their course about twelve or fifteen miles, so that at noon they came in sight of the schooner Shark, lying at anchor : and now mark the change, — in an instant as it were, the calm was succeeded by a violent norther, leaving them no alternative but to bear up and run before the wind, and endeavor to regain the little blind port of Alvarado, which was, fortunately for them, directly under their lee. They scudded for a time under bare poles, until the sea rose so high that they found it dangerous to run without something to force the boat faster than the sea, which began to comb and break over them. Captain Stevens calmly ordered his men to set a reefed foresail to accelerate the motion of the boat, and thus drive her like an arrow through the water. The sail was soon set, and the boat propelled by the fury of the wind, so that at times the water was some inches higher than the gunwale of the boat. Lieuten- ant Hobbs took his station on the look-out at the bows of the boat, supporting himself by the mast ; Captain Stevens conning the cockswain at the helm; Captain Eussell and Mr. Dekay sitting in the stern-sheets bailing out the water with their hats, and the men lying close down in the bottom of the boat. It must have been a sublime sight to witness the silent and calm resignation of the whole party, to the will of Him who rules the ocean, and governs the whirlwind at his own good pleasure. The most perfect order and self-possession prevailed ; not a word was heard except from Captain Stevens to his lieutenant, to look out sharp for the bar at the entrance of the port, with now and then the words " steady, steady ; thus, my boy, thus," to the man at the helm. At times the boat was forced through the water with such rapidity that there was great danger of running her under. The water was combing over the bows like VOYAGE IN THE BEIG NYMPH. 401 a river ; still it would not do to take in sail, and their only hope was in keeping the boat out of the way of the sea, and hitting the channel through the bar at the entrance of the little river, where the fury of the wind had lashed the sea into a white, boiling foam. In the midst of this appalling scene, the plug got out of the bottom of the boat, when Captain Russell thrust his thumb into the hole, and it was some moments before any thing else could be found to fill it. The sea was so high, that at times, notwithstanding the rapidity of the boat's motion, the tops of the white billows were washed over their heads, the boat strug- gling to free itself from the weight of the water that had forced itself on board. For two hours this heroic little band contended with these dangers, until a kind Providence aided their own good judgment, and directed them to the entrance of the chan- nel, when Lieutenant Hobbs conducted them through a little passage, between two immense breakers, and in a few moments after, they were within the bar and in the smooth water of the river. ' The writer of this miraculous escape was watching, with others on the beach, listening to the roaring of the surf and the howling of the tempest, and lamenting the sad fate of his worthy, but unfortunate countrymen, with expressions like these to each other — " "Well, poor Stevens, Hobbs, Russell and Dekay, are no doubt all gone ; they are inevitably lost ; they can never survive the fury and violence of this tempest ; they have not had time to reach the Sharh, and are now all doubtless swallow- ed up in the foaming billows." Judge, then, what must have been our joy and delight a moment after, to behold the little boat inside the bar, and a few moments after, in taking these half-drowned, whole-souled Americans by the hand. Those who have never witnessed such scenes, cannot fully imderstand and feel the full force of sympathy. The power of the pen and pencil cannot bring the subject home to the heart and soul, as the heart and eyes combined lay the whole scene open and naked before you. During my stay at Alvarado, I had manj conversations with Captain Stevens on the subject of his miraculous escape. He said it was indeed a miracle, and that the finger of God was no 26 402 VOYAGE IN THE BEIG KTMPH. doubt in it. He said that he was now more than ever convinced that man should be a religious being; that he had passed through many dangers at sea and on shore, had been in the battle and the storm, but had never felt himself in such imminent danger as in this instance. He was a brave, gallant man, and bore a conspicuous part on Lake Erie, under the heroic Perry, and I think he was also engaged in other naval actions during our late war with England. I do not recollect to what part of the Union Lieutenant Hobbs belonged, I think, however, it was Virginia ; he was a polished, gentlemanly, young man, about thirty or thirty-five yeai's old, an excellent officer, and won the esteem of all who knew him. Captain Stevens is now dead, and whether Lieut. Hobbs is still living, I know not. The gale continued to increase, and at three o'clock in the afternoon it blew a perfect hurricane ; at four, my brig took the ground, brought home the anchors, and drove on shore on a hard sand-bank, where she lay thumping during the whole night, and making much water. The next day, February the 12th, the gale continued to blow with great fury from the north, our vessel still lying On the sand-bank, thumping with great violence ; the wind blew so severely that it was difficult for the inhabitants to get about the town ; the sand and dust were driven in clouds, and all kind of biisiness was entirely suspended for the space of three days. Although the wind was so violent, the weather was perfectly clear and there was jiot a cloud to be seen in the heavens. On the 15th it moderated, and we discharged seve- ral boat-loads of cargo. The next day, we hove the vessel off the sand-bank, moored ship, and went on discharging the remainder of the cargo, which all came out dry, and in good condition. On the 18th I called a survey of ship-masters on the Wymph. The survey ordered the sheathing of the brig taken off and the bottom calked temporarily, until it could be thoroughly and permanently done at some other port, there being no facilities for repairing ships or vessels at this place. Alvarado lies in lat. 18° 46' K, long. 95° 38' W. of London; it is situated on the west bank of the river Alvarado, about one mile and a half VOYAGE IN THE BKIG NTMPH. 403 above its mouth, and forty miles S. E. of Vera Cruz. The town is an insignificant place, with one church, and about one hun- dred to one hundred and fifty houses, most of which are one story high ; it may perhaps contain about 800 to 1000 inhabit- ants of all colors. Tliey are a motley, mixed breed of various races, the Spaniard, Indian and African. The immediate vicini- ty is a barren, sandy desert, though at some distance from the town the land becomes very fertile and productive. After ad- vancing a few miles up the river, it opens into a kind of salt- water lake, which abounds with immense quantities of ex- cellent oysters ; wild game is also abundant, such as deer, hares and other animals ; wild ducks and sea-fowl are also numerous, and persons who are fond of shooting find here abun dant sporting. The climate is mild, and man can subsist with as little labor as in any part of the earth. The poorer classes live along the banks of the river in bamboo houses, which they erect in an hour or two ; they plant their Indian corn on the banks of the river, where it grows almost without culti- vation, and I am told produces abundantly ; when ripe enough to gather, they go in canoes and bring it to their houses, and Jiang it up by the husks on poles erected upon stakes driven into the ground. From the oyster banlis, they can load a boat with fine oys- ters at low water in a few minutes. The plantain trees supply them with bread, and they are absolutely the most independent people I ever met with. If required to labor in town or on ship-board, they appear very careless about it, and always make their own terms for their services. If any objection is made to the price of wages, they reply that there are fish enough in the river to supply them with food, and that God has provided them with all that is necessary for their sustenance; consequently they become very indolent, and live a drowsy, sleepy sort of life, with but little more activity than the oysters that nourish and sustain them. By nature man is an indolent animal, and will only labor from necessity. It is true, that in cold, bracing climates, where men are compelled to labor and provide for winter, the habit of daily employment becomes to them a pleas- ure ; but it is only from habit that they like it. Witness the In- 404 VOYAGE IN THE BEIG NYMPH. dian tribes in the vast forests of North America, where they hunt the wild animals for a support ; — after killing a buffalo or wild ox, they build a fire, around which they gorge themselves with the flesh of the animal, and then sleep for several days, and when roused by hunger they again pursue the chase for something to supply them with more food : so that it is in fact, necessity alone that compels them to action. I had now decided to go from this port with ray brig to the Havana, and accordingly advertised for freight and passengers to that port. I wrote to my friend E. M. Lawrence, of New York, to get two thousand dollars insured on freight from this port to the Havana, on a valued policy. I ballasted the NymipK with sand, and got her ready for sea with all possible dispatch ; settled my business with my consignees ; received the amount of my proportion of the cargo sold, freight money, &c., &c., ; and after getting about ten ceroons of cochineal, and eleven bales of red peppers on freight, with eleven cabin passengers, at one hundred dollars each, I was ready for sea. Previous to leav- ing this port, however, I shipped on board the schooner Fly^ Captain Henry Van Dine, five thousand dollars for account of E. M. Lawrence and myself, joint owners of the brig. There remained with me about sixteen hundred dollars more, belong- ing to ourselves jointly, which amount I concluded to take with me to the Havana. Having arranged my business matters and got all my passengers on board, we sailed on the 11th of March for the Havana. The next day, notwithstanding the weather was very fine and the sea smooth, the brig commenced leaking so that we found it necessary to pump every four hours. Ma/roh 13tk. — Commenced with light winds from the E. S. E., with fine, clear, pleasant weather ; the leak still increasing to 200 strokes the hour. My passengers were clerical men and merchants, namely, six priests and friars, the remainder mer- chants and shop-keepers. The priests and friars began to be alarmed at the brig's making so much water, and inquired of me the cause, and whether it was not best and more prudent to re- turn to Alvarado. I had laid in suflBcient stores and provisions VOYAGE IN THE BEIG NYMPH. 406 for the voyage to Havana, and was very reluctant to return into port ; — I had received all the passage money, and felt that it was a hard case for both parties ; and was therefore determined to persevere on my course, as long as safety and prudence would authorize my doing so. March, lUh. — The leak had now increased to 260 strokes an hour : all my passengers were very much alarmed, and the clerical gentlemen implored me to run for the first port, and of- fered me freely all the passage money they had paid, and were willing to sign a contract to that effect. The merchants and shop-keepers were more obstinate, and refused to give up any portion of the passage money ; consequently, I told them I should pursue my course for the Havana, until it was the unani- mous desire of all the passengers to return into port ; that I would not claim all their passage money, but thought it but just and fair for me to retain one half of it ; having expended about that amount for their provisions and stores ; and if they thought proper to agree to this arrangement, I would steer for the first port. They all soon came into the measure. The wind had been light from the E". E. for the last.two days, and the current had swept us to the westward, so that on the 18th, four days after leaving port, we made the highlands about ten leagues to the northward of Yera Cruz. We now had fresh breezes from the northward, and fine weather. At noon, this day, passed near the castle of San Juan de UUoa, and attempted to gain the anchorage at the islands of Sacrificios, but could not fetch in. "We then bore up for Alvarado. The next day, March 16th, by turning and shifting the sand ballast, we found the principal leak was in the skarf of the keel. It proceeded through the opening of the skarf with great force and violence ; and although we saw this frightful leak, we were not able to stop it. It appeared evident that the skarf must have been started when the brig was thumping on the sand- bank, during the severe weather of the 11th and 12th of Feb- ruary, and that the aperture had filled up with sand, which did not wash out until after we left Alvarado and got into clear ocean water. On the 17th, at eleven o'clock in the forenoon, we took a pi- 406 VOYAGE IN THE BEIG NYMPH. lot off Alvarado bar, the wind being then from the northward, with clear, pleasant weather; we soon ran into port, and at three in the afternoon came to anchor, after a week's absence. I now landed all my passengers, retaining the one-half of their passage money, and had no diiSculty with them, as they were reasonable men, and were convinced that it was no fault ot mine, but pure misfortune. I returned the goods on freight to the owners, or shippers, without any charges or expense ' to either party. I then noted a protest, and the next day Mr. S. Malsan, acting American consul and commercial agent at this port, appointed a survey of three experienced ship-masters, Capt. Henry Eussell, James Copeland and Henry Yan Dine, to repair on board the brig, examine her situation, and report to him. Accordingly, these gentlemen ordered the brig hove out ; I, with great difficulty, borrowed blocks from one vessel, and falls from another, and the next day managed to heave the brig down, so that the survey could examine the keel and bot- tom. They made the following report : — " "We the undersigned, shipmasters of the United States, now in Alvarado, named and appointed by S. Malsan, acting commercial agent for the United States, at the port of Alvarado, to survey the brig Nymph, of New York, Coggeshall, master, lately returned to this port in a leaky condition, " Eeport as follows : — ^That we have this day repaired on board said brig, and after a thorough and careful examination, found the skarf of the keel started, and otherwise much injured, the water forcing through in great quantities, and that it is im- practicable to fasten and secure the same from the inside. We are therefore unanimously of opinion, that to make her sea- worthy it will be absolutely necessary that the said brig should be hove keel out, the keel rebolted and properly secured, the remainder of the sheathing taken off, the bottom calked and resheathed. It is also our opinion that the expense of the before- mentioned repairs at this place, would far exceed the value of the vessel, it being doubtful, at the same time, whether it would be possible to accomplish the necessary repairs to make the NyrmpJi seaworthy, with the means and facilities that this place offers. We recommend Capt. Coggeshall, therefore to dismantle said VOYAGE m THE BEIG NYMPH. 407 brig Nyvryph, and dispose of tlie materials, viz. : spars, sails, ca- bles, anchors, boats, bnll, in short, all the tackle and apparel in detail, to the best advantage for whomsoever it may concern. " "Witness our hands, in Alvarado, March 19th, 1824. HENEY EUSSELL, of Brig Merced. JAMES COPELAND, Schooner Dol/pTvm. HENET VAN DINE, Schooner FhjP "We found the main keel of the Nym/pTi in a very bad situa- tion, the false one almost entirely knocked off, and the main, amidships, broomed badly for ten or twelve feet, the skarf opened, and violently wrenched. All this damage, no doubt, occurred while she lay thumping on the sand-bank with a heavy cargo on board, on the 11th and 12th of February. Agreeably to the advice of the consul, and the official survey, I proceeded forthwith to dismantle the brig, and through Messrs. Bools and Treat, auctioneers, sold the hull, and also her materials in detail ; paid off the officers and seamen according to law, and soon set- tled all my business at Alvarado. About this period, Mr. Andrews, agent for the Ilnited States Bank, ai-rived from the city of Mexico, and related the following story. Messrs. Andrews and Crawford, of Philadelphia, were appointed agents for the Ilnited States Bank, to proceed to the city of Mexico, and there transact some important business for that institution. After having accomplished their mission, the Government furnished them with a military escort, to protect them on the road from the capital of Mexico to Alvarado. In company with these gentlemen, was the captain of a British man-of-war, then lying at anchor at Yera Cruz, whose name I do not recollect. The English captain and Mr. Andrews rode in a carriage, driven by a postillion, and Mr. Crawford on horse- back alongside of the carriage. After getting down to Perote, the captain of the guard assured them that the danger was over, and there left them to perform the remainder of the journey without one. Soon after leaving Perote, while travelling on the road, they were attacked by ten or twelve well-armed men in masks, mounted on fine horses. Their first act of violence was shooting Mr. Crawford through the body; this unfortunate gen- 408 VOYAGE IN THE BRIG NYMPH. tleman fell to the ground, bleeding profusely. They then or- dered the captain and Mr. Andrews to leave the carriage, and lie flat on their faces on the ground, while they rifled the vehi- cle of all they could find. After having robbed them of then- watches and all their money, the robbers were about to let them go, but at this moment the mail carrier from Vera Cruz came in sight; he was mounted on horseback, and did not dis- cover the robbers until very near the carriage, which several of them were overhauling ; on rising a little hill he discovered his danger, but too late to inake his escape ; he however spurred his horse, and endeavored to pass them. In an instant several of them went in pursuit ; the fleet horses of the robbers soon overtook him, when they shot the unfortunate man, and left him dead on the road. Mr. A. told me that while the captain and himself were lying on the ground, the robbers pricked their sides with the points of their swords, and threatened to dispatch them, accusing them of having concealed a portion of their money. Mr. A. said one of their gang (he thought it was the captain) appeared to intercede for them, and told his men not to kill them, that they had taken all they had, and that it was useless to murder them. After the robbers were satisfied that they could find no more booty, they rode off and left them. Mr. A. concluded, from the manner they rode and managed their arms and horses, that the whole gang were military men. As soon as the robbers were fairly out of sight, they lifted the poor, wounded gentleman, who was bleeding and suffering from the efiect of his wound, into the carriage, and returned slowly back to Perote. On the road, about a mile from where Mr. Crawford was shot, they saw the mail-carrier lying dead. Mr. Crawford lived but a few hours after they returned to Perote. Alvarado was formerly a poor little fishing village, and was brought into notice from the circumstance of the castle of xSim Juan de JJlloa^s being in the possession of Spain, so that no commerce or trade could be carried on with Vera Cruz except by land, from Alvarado. Consequently, as soon as the castle of San Jua/n de TJlloa fell into the hands of the Mexicans, Al- varado naturally fell back into its former insignificance. About the 27th of March, I got a copy of all my protests VOYAGE IN THE BEIG NTMPH. 409 and surveys from the American consul, and now only waited an opportunity to return home to the United States. As there was no vessel bound direct to the port of New York, I decided to return to Philadelphia in the pilot-boat schooner Mexican, with Captain Dawson. There were six cabin passengers : Mr. Andrews, R. "Willing, Esq., a young Englishman by the name of Sagg, myself, and one or two other gentlemen. The price of passage was $100, which we paid in advance. "While waiting for Captain Dawson to get ready for sea, we had much leisure to stroll about the town and the sand-hills in its vicinity, and to observe the peculiarities of this, in many re- spects, singular place. Alvarado is badly supplied with fresh water : that in the river and harbor is salt and brackish, but by digging a few feet deep in the sand six or eight feet from the river, and inserting a barrel with holes bored in the bottom, fresh water is easily obtained, and in this way the shipping is abundantly supplied. "We sailed from Alvarado about the middle of April. "We encountered contrary winds in getting out of the Gulf of Mexico, and made a long and tedious voyage. The cabin passengers were intelligent and agreeable men. "We did not reach Philadelphia until the 18th of May, which made our passage about thirty-three days from Alvarado. I remained but two days in Philadelphia, and then came on to !N"ew York, where I found my mother, sister, and all the rest of my friends well. The underwriters paid our claim for the brig and freight in an off-hand, honorable manner, and although I had much trouble and anxiety on the voyage, still, it turned out a very profitable one. I was absent a few days over eight months, with a small capital of about $10,000, and cleared on the voyage just $8,000 for my friend Lawrence and myself. We settled every thing to our mutual satisfaction.* It will be recollected that while lying in St. Thomas, on the 10th of January, 1824, 1 discharged Capt. Coggeshall, at his own request. From that port he returned home to Milford, where he soon sickened and died, leaving a wife and one son. On my return to New York, on being made acquainted with the early * And thus ends this troublesome though lucrative voyage in the brig Nymph. 410 VOYAGE IN THE BEIG NYMPH. and unexpected deatli of my young friend and cousin, I wrote, as applicable to him, the following : EPITAPH: Here in tMs lonely, humble bed, Where myrtle and wild roses grow, A son of Neptune rests his head. For, reader, 'tis his watch below. Long hath he done his duty well, And weathered many a stormy blast ; But now, where gentler breezes swell. He's safely moored in peace at last. Tread lightly, sailors, o'er his grave. His virtues claim a kindred tear ; And yet why mourn a brother brave. Who rests from all his labors here ? Though here below his body lies. To mingle with the dust. His soul has flown to brighter skies To dwell among the just. CHAPTEE XXXI. VOYAGE IN THE SHIP GOVEENOK CLINTON, DAVID HEPBURN MASTER, FROM NEW YORK TO CHILI, PERU AND COLOMBIA, ON THE WESTERN COAST OP SOUTH AMERICA, THENCE TO GIBRALTAR AND BACK TO NEW YORK, IN THE YEARS 1825, 1826 AND 1827. MYSELF SUPER- CARGO. About the 20th of March, 1826, 1 agreed with Messrs. E'. L. & G. Griswold, merchants ia New York, to perform a trading voy- age from that city to the western coast of Chili, Peru and Co- lombia, in their ship " Governor Clinton." This was a good, fast-sailing ship, about two years old, and burden three hundred and eighty-three tons, well fitted and found in every respect. We had a valuable assorted cargo of flour, provisions, white beeswax, chairs, soap, American cotton goods, such as shirtings, sheetings, etc., besides German, English and Russian goods. In fine, it would be useless and tedious to enumerate one-tenth part of this extensive cargo of every kind of merchandise. For we had, as the saying is, " every thing, from a German flute to a penny whistle." The invoice of Messrs. IST. L. & G. Griswold alone, amounted to the gross sum of $31,320. Benj. L. Swan, Esq., also shipped on board of this ship, by an arrangement with his friends the owners, an invoice of American, English and German goods to the amount of $36,203, and consigned the same to me. Besides the above invoice, there were sundry other goods sent by differ- ent persons on half profits, such as chain-cables, saddles, etc., etc., so that the whole cargo amounted to nearly one hundred thousand dollars, all of which was consigned to my manage- ment. 412 VOYAGE IN THE SKtP GOTEENOE CLINTON. Knowing from experience the great length of time necessary to retail such a cargo on the western coast of South America, I proposed to the owners to employ a captain to act under my di- rections, and also a young man as assistant supercargo and clerk. I told them that this arrangement would eventuate to their in- terest : that I should never be able to fulfill all the duties of a captain and supercargo. They readily complied with my sug- gestions, and allowed me to appoint the two gentlemen in ques- tion. I accordingly chose as captain, David Hepburn, of Mil- ford, who had been my cabin-boy on his first voyage at sea, in the brig Henry and Isabella, to St. Bartholomew, in the year 1809. He had also some years after that period commanded two vessels in my employment, the ketch Maria, and the schooner Catherine, in the "West India trade. I chose for my assistant supercargo and clerk, my young friend, Mr. ■ . He had been liberally educated, and had been for several years initiated in commercial affairs in the counting-house of one of the first mercantile firms in the city of ITew York. Captain Hepburn took for his mate or first officer Mr. L. B. Griswold, with a crew of twelve men and boys, together with a cook, steward and carpenter, so that we mustered in number about eighteen or twenty souls. We commenced loading on the 22d of March, and on the 13th of April got ready for sea. Here follows the substance of Captain Hepburn's orders from the owners of the Governor Clinton : Captain D. Hepbuen, — Deae Sie : You will please take charge of the ship Governor Clinton as master, and proceed with all possible dispatch to Lima ; at that port you will be guided by the instructions and advice of Captain George Coggeehall, who goes with you as su- percargo. Mr. C. holds our power of attorney to dispose of the ship and cargo, in short, to do and act for our interest the same as though we were personally present ; we therefore request you will comply with his wishes, and should any untoward ac- cident befall Captain C, we desire that you will strive to pro- VOYAGE IN THE SHIP GOVEENOE CLINTON. 413 mote our interest to the best of your abilities. Wishing you a prosperous voyage, we remain Tour obedient servants, If. L. & G. GKISWOLD. Substance of my agreement with the owners of the G. Clin- ton on a trading voyage on the coast of Chili, Pern and Colom- bia. The owners agree to allow me two and a half per cent, clear commission on the gross sale of the whole outward cargo, also two and a half on all purchases, and one per cent, on returns in specie, with the further privilege of ten tons of merchandise free of freight during the entire voyage, with one quarter part of the net passage money. After my agreement was completed and all the preliminaries settled relative to the voyage, the owners handed me a letter to Captain Hatch, who commanded their brig Brazilian, which vessel was then at Lima or trading on some part of the coast of Peru. I herewith insert a copy of that letter. New York, lith April, 1825. Captain A. Hatch, — Deae Sie : This will be handed you by Captain George Coggeshall, who is on the eve of sailing in our ship Governor Clinton, direct for Lima. Tou will give Captain C. all the in- formation in your power, that will promote the object of his voyage, and consult with him relative to the business of the Brazilian. Captain C. is an experienced shipmaster, and his advice will be useful to you. We have requested him, if he thinks best, to put such part of his cargo on board of the Brazilian, as is suita- ble for other markets on the coast, and to let Mr. go with you, to assist in disposing of them, together with such re- maining part of your cargo as is adapted to such ports. Tou will please co-operate with Captain Coggeshall in such arrange- ments as he may deem proper. W"e are your obedient servants, NATHANIEL L. & G. GEISWOLD. 414 VOYAGE m THE SHIP GOVEENOE CLINTON. And now being assured that I had the entire confidence of my enterprising employei'S, and satisfied they had allowed me a liberal compensation for my anticipated services, I felt that they were entitled to my utmost exertions and untiring industry to promote their interest in every honorable way in my power. Under these circumstances I embarked with a good heart and a willing mind, and on Friday, April the 15th, 1825, at ten o'clock in the morning, we left New York with a light air from the E". E., and at noon the same day came to anchor at the quarantine ground, Staten Island, where we lay all night, the wind being light from the eastward. The next morning at eight, we made sail with a light, variable wind and ebb tide, and stood down the bay. At three o'clock in the afternoon we got fairly outside of Sandy Hook, when a breeze sprung up from the southward. We discharged the pilot, and proceeded on our course to the eastward. There is so much sameness and monotony at sea, that I shall pass over much of the dull routine comprising the record of winds and weather, and only note the most prominent incidents that occurred daring this passage (except off Cape Horn, where I shall insert detailed particulars from day to day.) The first day out we had a smooth sea and a favorable breeze from the southwest, and ran off at the rate of eight and nine knots the hour. The next day being Sunday, all hands had a day of rest. I have always made it a staading rule never to keep the ofl[icers and crew at work on Sunday, except in cases of absolute necessity. On the 20th of April, four days after leaving Sandy Hook, the wind shifted to the S. E., and blew a strong gale from that quarter attended with rain, and a high sea, which made it ne- cessary to double-reef the topsails. As the motion of the ship caused my young friend Mr. to feel sea-siCk, the following dialogue took place between us. " Well, Mr. C, this is a miserable life ; what fools men are to let pride and ambition drive them to sea, and thus suffer and endure sickness and every kind of discomfort. It is far better to live on shore in the most humble manner, even in a log-cabin on the wild prairies of the western States, than lead such a VOYAGE IN THE SHIP GOVEENOE CLINTOK. 415 miserable dog's life as this. I only wish I was once more on shore, and nothing should ever tempt me to leave the land again." " My young friend," said I, " your feelings on the subject are perfectly natural ; I have heard the same resolves a thousand times from the uninitiated in the mysteries of a sea life. Just wait until you have seen foreign lands, and felt the excitement which the dangers and vicissitudes of such a life are sure to produce, and then after having made a good voyage and got safe back, only think how delightful it is to meet one's friends, and iind every body glad to see you, and greet you with a hearty welcome. Depend upon it, sir, you will not willingly remain two months on shore, before you will sigh for another voyage." The Governor Clinton was a good sea-boat and a fast-sailing ship, and when the winds were favorable, we made great pro- gress on our voyage. Although deeply laden, we frequently made two hundred miles and over in twenty four hours. Be- fore leaving New York, I had purchased a new chronometer, and as we were bound on a long voyage, I j iidged it prudent to make one of the Cape de Yerde Islands, and test the correct- ness of the instrument, and therefore requested Captain Hep- burn to make the Island of St. Anthony, which lies nearly in the direct track out, and about in the usual longitude of crossing the equator. Accordingly on the 12th of May we steered south for the aforesaid island, and made it at six a. m., daylight, bear- ing S. by "W". seven leagues distant. Brisk breezes at N. E. and fine weather, latitude by obser- vation at noon 17° 14:' N. "When the body of the island bore south, I got several sights of the chronometer, and found the mean result to be 25° 11' W. longitude. The longitude of the same part of the island is laid down in my nautical books in 25° 19' W., differing but two miles, consequently I found the chronometer correct. St. An- thony is a high, barren, rocky-looking island, and I should think not of much value for the purposes of cultivation. "We were now twenty-seven days from New York, and as we had got into fine weather, I found abundant leisure to il6 VOYAGE IN THE SHIP GOVEENOK CLINTON. read, and brush up what knowledge 1 had of the Spanish language. Temperature by Fahrenheit's thermometer this day was 80° at noon in the shade. "We had light trade winds at !N". E. for several days while steering down south towards the line, and met with nothing worthy of remark until we got near the equa- tor, where the weather is always hot and disagreeable. The sun is generally hidden by clouds and mist during the morning, hut usually shines out at meridian. Being vertical, the heat and vapor are extremely unpleasant. Frequently through the night there is much rain, and though at times the clouds look fright- fully black, and the squalls wild and threatening, still they are, generally speaking, harmless, and end with abundance of rain, with but little or no wind. I can easily conceive that a stranger on visiting these regions, should be at times very much alarmed with the threatening as- pect of the sky and the general appearance of the weather, when in reality there is no danger. It is in these latitudes that we generally fill up our water casks, and the sailors always profit by washing all their clothing. "Wc are usually obliged to fan through these low latitudes, say from two or three degrees north of the equator to one degree south of it, and it is not uncommon to lose several days here amidst calm and bafiling weather. I have found, by many years experience, that the best longitude for crossing the line is in about 26° to 27° W. Some navigators prefer crossing further to the eastward, say in 23° "W., but I think there is more fear of meeting calm weather in 23° than further to the westward ; namely, from 26° to 27°. Baltimore vessels, which are gener- ally fast-sailing clippers, cross still further to leeward, some as far as twenty-eight or twenty-nine degrees, and find the winds fresher and more favorable ; still this would be a dangerous experiment for very heavy sailing ships to attempt for fear of falling to leeward, and being swept so far to the westward as not to be able to weather Cape St. Eoque. On Saturday, May 28th, we crossed the equator in the lon- gitude of 26° 16' "W. The thermometer this day, and for several consecutive days, was from 82° to 85° Fahrenheit, in the shade. VOYAGE IN THE SHIP GOVBENOE CLINTON. 417 Latitude at noon, 0° 52' south. And thus our passage from New York to the line has been forty-one days, which is rather long for a fast-sailing ship. We have, however, for the last ten or twelve days, been sadly impeded by light and baffling winds. Sunday, May 29th. — ^We are fortunate in falling in with the S. E. trade winds so near the line, and have now fine, pleasant weather, which is very agreeable after having been for several days under a vertical sun, and soaking showers of rain. "We have made one hundred and fifty-four miles distance per log, the last twenty-four hours, notwithstanding the ship has been close- hauled upon the wind. This is another welcome day of rest ; I read one of Bossuet's Sermons, Locke and Bacon's Essays, and felt at peace with all the world. Latitude, by observation, 3° 5' S. Longitude at noon, 28° 12' W. Thermometer 83° in the cabin. Thursday, June 2d. — During the last three days, we have had fresh and steady breezes from the S. E., and clear, pleasant weather, and have made, by the log, one hundred and sixty- eight miles per day, with the yards braced up. We are now sailing through those pleasant regions (mentioned on a former voyage in the Sea-Serpent), where the weather is generally fine, the air pure, and the skies bright and clear. Our captain is a good seaman, very watchful and attentive to the duties of the ship, and has tact enough to make the crew contented and happy. As we have a drummer and a fifer, besides a man who plays the violin tolerably well, we have music on board almost every evening when the weather is fine, to keep up the spirits of the men ; and I am pleased to add that every body appears contented. There is of course some occasional remark or evil foreboding on the subject of doubling Cape Horn ; but this re- flection soon subsides by the consoling fact that we have a good ship under foot, and that she is ably commanded, with as good a crew as ever floated on salt water, in proportion to their num- ber. We found ourselves this day in latitude 10° 51' south ; longitude 33° 44' west. From the 2d to the 9th of June, we had generally light winds and pleasant weather, and made but slow progress on our 27 418 VOYAGE IN THE SHIP GOVEENOE CLINTON. course. "We have kept a little too far to the westward, and too near the Brazil coast, consequently have found the S. E. trades very light. I would, therefore, advise all young and inexperi- enced navigators bound round Cape Horn, to give the coast of Brazil a good berth, and thus avoid light trades and baffling winds. I have found from experience that by keeping further to the eastward on this coast the trade winds are much stronger. Saturday, June lliA.— This day, the weather being fine we took several observations of the sun's and moon's distances t9 ascertain our longitude ; and after taking the mean of the whole, found the longitude to be 35° 52' west of Greenwich, which differs but a few miles from the chronometer ; we there- fore conclude they are both correct. Latitude at noon, 20° 19' south. Thv/fsday, June IQth. — Winds light, from S. E. to N. E., with clear, pleasant weather. At one p. m. spoke the brig "Syren," four days from Eio de Janeiro, bound to Boston. Several whales playing round the ship. Variation of the com- pass, per amplitude, 2° 32' east. Latitude by observation, 28° 56' north ; longitude 38° 48' west. Monday, June 'iOth. — Moderate breezes from the S. E. and fine weather. This day, set up the lower shrouds, bent a new main-topsail, and other storm sails, sent down roj^al masts and yards, rove new braces, and are making every preparation for bad weather as we draw up into higher latitudes, and approach Cape Horn. June 25th. — Latitude 43° south ; longitude 60° west. The thermometer in the cabin stood at 52°. The days are getting shorter, and the sky daily wears a more wintry aspect, as we increase our latitude. The " Magellan Clouds" are now about 45° above the horizon, and are nightly seen when the sky is clear. In these high southern latitudes, besides the "Southern Cross" there are many constellations and single bright stars seen, that are not visible to the inhabitants of the ISTorthern Hemisphere, and are therefore a fruitful theme of contemplation for those who visit these distant regions of the globe. From the 26th of June to the end of the month, we generally had VOYAGE m THE SHIP GOVEENOE CLINTON. 419 head winds, and squally, disagreeable weather; consequently we made but slow progress on our voyage. • July 6th. — At 7 o'clock this evening, by an observation of the moon and the star Antarea, found we were in longitude 53° 15', 30", west longitude per chronometer, 53° 18' 0". Latitude 46° 0' south, variation of the compass per amplitude, 23° 26' easterly. Friday, July %th. — During the whole of these twenty-four hours, we had fresh breezes from west to northwest, and clear, pleasant weather. At eight a. m. made the land, namely, the island of Terra del Fuego, near the Straits of Le Maire, bearing from south to west about fifteen leagues distant. Latitude by observation at noon, 54° 3' south ; distance run by the log, one hundred and fifty-eight miles. At eleven o'clock a. m. the lon- ■ gitude per chronometer was 64° 64' west. At this time Cape Diego, at the entrance of the Straits of Le Maire, bore S. W. This cape is laid down by Bowditch in latitude 54° 37' south ; longitude 65° 5' west, which differs little or nothing from my chronometer. Saturday, July 9th. — Up to this period, we have been favored with a fair share of good weather ; but, as it is now in the dead of winter in this dreary region, I look for nothing but stormy weather, and constant changes from bad to worse. I believe I have remarked, in my narrative on a former voy- age, that the severe weather and mountainous seas off Cape Horn and its vicinity, are, in reality, bad enough to encounter ; but the passage round this cape is rendered tenfold more gloomy from its remote position ; for should any serious acci- dent occur, such as losing a rudder, there is no resource. For many hundred miles along this coast, there is no vegetation ex- cept a few stunted trees, and a little moss and sorrel growing among the clefts of these dark gray and black rocks, piled one upon another, to the height of several hundred feet ; and no inhabitants, save a thin, scattered population of miserable, sav- age Indians, but one grade above the brute creation, and no friendly port to obtain relief, short of Monte Video, which is more than 1300 miles distant. This reminds me of the melancholy loss of a Spanish seventy- 420 VOYAGE IN THE SHIP GOVEENOE CLINTON. four gun-ship, witli every soul on board — captain, officers, crew and passengers — amounting, in number, to between TOO and 800 men, women and cMldren. This ship sailed from Cadiz, in company with a frigate bound to Lima, some eight or ten years before Peru shook oif the Spanish yoke and became an inde- pendent State. These ships met with no serious accident until they arrived off Cape Horn, where, in a violent tempest, while lying to, the seventy -four lost her rudder. She hoisted a signal of distress, but the sea was so high, and the weather so bad, that the frigate was afraid to approach her consort. Shortly after, the weather became thick, when they separated, lost sight of each other, and never again met. The frigate, a few weeks after, ar- rived in safety at Lima, but the seventy-four was never after- wards heard from, except a mere vestige of her — just enough to establish the fact of the sad catastrophe of this ill-fated ship. Soon after the ISTew South Shetland Islands off Cape Horn were discovered, a gang of American sealers on one of these islands report having seen the rudder of a large ship, which they sup- posed to have belonged to a seventy-four, lying on the shore of one of these desolate islands. After this digression, I will resume my narrative. July. IQth. — Commenced with fresh gales from the west- ward, directly ahead, with a high head sea running. During the night we had strong gales from west to southwest, attended with violent squalls of snow and hail. At eight o'clock a. m. got down the main-topgallant yard, rigged in the jib-boom, close-reefed the topsails and course, and stood off shore to the southward. We have now met with Cape Horn weather, in good earnest. No observation ; the sun obscured. Latitude by dead-reckoning, 56° 18' south. Dis- tance made, by the log, seventy miles. Longitude by calcula- tion, 62° 31' west. Thermometer at noon, 34:° above zero. Monday, July 1 li/i.— These twenty-four hours, like the last, commenced with strong gales from the west and southwest, with violent squalls of snow and hail. At four p. m. the wind blew so violently that we were obliged to take in all sail, ex- cept a close-reefed main-topsail, and the main and mizzen stay- sails. At eight in the morning, the gale was so violent, that we TOTAGE IN THE SHIP GOVEENOK CLINTON. 421 took in tlie main staysail, and laid tlie ship's head offshore to the southward. The gale continued to rage with great fury from the westward, with a very high sea running directly ahead, through the night. At half-past eleven a. m. the sun shone out, and by a sight at the chronometer, we found the longitude to be 61° 52' 30" west. Latitude by observation at noon, 65° 46' south. Thermometer, at noon, in the cabin, stood at 31° above zero. July \%th. — These twenty-four hours are only a repetition of the last — a continuation of strong gales from the westward, with a high sea running. At four p. m. wore ship to the northward, and lay to, all these twenty-four hours, under a close-reefed main-topsail, and main and mizzen staysail. We lost about thirty-one miles drift to the eastward, which is about one degree of longitude. We are now in latitude 56° 8' south ; longitude per chronometer, 61° 30' west; thermometer same as yesterday. Wednesday, July IZth. — ^These twenty-four hours commen- ced with strong gales from the southward. At midnight, we set close-reefed topsails, reefed courses and storm staysails. At one hour after midnight, wore ship to the southward. The wind has again veered to the westward, and increased to a vio- lent tempest. At four p. m. took in all sail, except a close-reefed main-topsail, and hove to. We have now very cold weather and much snow, with a high sea running from the westward. At eight A. M. the gale moderated a little, when we set a close- reefed topsail and a reefed foresail. Latitude by observation at noon, 56° 3' south ; longitude, by chronometer, 60° 38' west. Thermometer down to 27° in the cabin. We have now much ice and snow about the rigging and decks. Julj IMh. — ^These twenty-four hours commenced with mode- rate gales from the S. S. E. At meridian we made sail, set close-reefed topsails, and reefed courses. Strong gales and a high sea, with heavy squalls of snow and sleet throughout the night. At nine a. m. the wind moderated, and the sky cleared up a little, when we saw a ship, bearing about south, two or three miles distant, lying to, under a fore and mizzen staysail, with the most of her sails blown to pieces. Her topsails and 422 VOYAGE m THE SHIP GOVERNOE CLINTON. courses were hanging to the yards, half-furled, and flapping in tatters and ribbons in the wind. "We set our colors, when she, being to windward, set a French ensign, bore up, ran down near us, and hove to again. "We were under close-reefed top- sails and reefed courses, and had every thing snug and comfort- able. "We gazed at each other for a few seconds, when I re- quested Captain Hepburn to inquire of the captain of the French ship whether he was in distress or wanted any thing, and wheth- er we could render him any assistance. "When in the act of asking him these questions, he hailed to know whether we were in want of any thing, and whether he could be of any service to us. "We, of course, thanked him, and told him we wanted nothing. She appeared like a French sloop-of-war, mounted twenty-two guns, and had a great number of men on board ; still she lay looking like the picture of distress, with nearly all her sails blown to ribbons, and every thing hanging about in a careless, slovenly manner, worse than any merchant ship I ever saw with less than one-tenth her number of men ; and what most surprised us, was the careless inactivity displayed on board. No move was made to repair damages, and every thing appeared to be left to the mercy of the winds. Finding we wanted nothing of each other, we wore ship and stood on opposite tacks, when we soon lost sight of this mysterious ship. No observation — the sun obscured. Latitude by account, 55° 44' south. Distance per log, eighty-one miles. Longitude, per chronometer, 62° 32' west. Friday, July 16th. — These twenty-four hours commenced with moderate breezes from the S. W. At six a. m. wore ship to the S. S. E. At seven a. m. the wind hauled to the N. "W., and blew a fresh gale from that quarter, attended with squalls of snow, and a high sea running from the westward. At nine A. M. the wind moderated a little, when we again made sail, set double-reefed topsails, and a reefed foresail. At meridian, the wind and weather moderated, and the sea became somewhat smoother. Lat. by account, 55° 40' S. Distance per log, one hundred miles. Long, about 65° "W. Thermometer in the cabin, 38° above zero. I am fully aware that the record of making and taking in VOYAGE IN THE SHIP GOVEENOE OLINTOlir. 423 sail, and giving a daily account of the winds and weather in the log-book style, must often be extremely tedious and unin- teresting to those unacquainted with the sea, but to seafaring men, it is quite the reverse ; for to them it is often a source of amusement, and sometimes beneficial to read in detail the ex- perience of their seafaring brethren. It enables them to com- pare and contrast the different tracks taken by ships on long voyages, and it is for them that I have given the particulars of our passage off and around Cape Horn, It will therefore be easy for those who feel no interest in storms, gales, or ships' courses on the ocean, or such as have no disposition to trace on a map the track of the ship, to turn over the leaves of this part of my narrative without reading them. I have therefore concluded to give an exact copy of my journal, as it occurred from day to day, and although it may possess but little interest, it will, at least, show a spirit of determined perse- verance to surmount every obstacle. Saturday, July l&th. — During the whole of these twenty- four hours we experienced a continuation of strong westerly gales with a high head sea running against us, still plying to windward, under close-reefed top-sails and a reefed foresail. In this dismal region, now in the dead of winter, we haVe long, di-eary nights, and short days, the sun appearing for a few hours, making, as it were, but a small circle to the north of us, and then sinking into deep banks of dark clouds. Lat. by obs. 56° 55' S. Long, per chronometer 65° r 30" W. ; distance run per log, ninety miles. The variation of the compass at sunsetting, was 22° 57' E. Found a strong current setting to the eastward, all these twenty-four hours, so that we gained little or nothing. In fine, it is very diffi- cult to hold our own against these strong gales and lee cur- rents. , Sunday, July 17th. — ^These twenty-four hours, like the last, commenced with strong gales from the westward, and a high sea running. At four p. m. the gale was so violent that we took in all sail except a close-reefed main-topsail, and a storm main- staysail. At midnight, it suddenly became calm, when the ship rolled and tumbled about for several hours in the trough 424 VOYAGE IN THE SHIP GOTEENOE CLINTON. of the sea, with not wind enough to keep her steady. At six A. M. a light breeze sprung up from the eastward, when we sent up the main-topgallant yard, and set the sail with a fore- topmast studding-sail, to steady the ship. Saw a sail bearing E. S. E., some eight or ten miles distant. No observation ; the sun obscured. Lat. by dead reckoning 51° 10' S., long, 'about 65° 8' W. Monday, July 18th. — ^These twenty-four hours commenced with light airs from the eastward, but owing to a high sea still running from the westward, we made but little progress on our course. At twelve, midnight, a strong breeze sprung up from the S. "W"., attended with heavy squalls of snow and hail. Close- reefed the topsails, and handed the main and foresails. At sev- en A. M., the gale moderated a little, and at eight a. m. daylight, saw the land about Cape Horn, bearing by the compass N. W. half W., distant about eight leagues. The land being at this time covered with snow, gave it a very dreary appearance. We soon saw the high, snowy mountains in the interior of Terra del Fuego, bearing about N. E. some sixty or seventy miles. "We also saw several small islands near Cape Deceit. At noon, the weather being clear and fine, we had an uncom- monly good view of Cape Horn, and the land in its vicinity. It was about seven or eight leagues to the northward of us. I m^y say we were directly off the pitch of the Cape, beating to wind- ward day after day, to weather this conspicuous landmark, placed, as it were, in the midst of storms and tempests. Lati- tude, by a good observation at noon, 56° 21' south ; longitude, by chronometer, 67° 40' 30" west. The longitude of the Cape, as laid down by Bowditch, is 67° 21' 0" W. Making a just allowance for the bearing and distance of the Cape, I find the chronometer differs but a mere trifle from the longitude laid down in the nautical books referred to. Tuesday, July \Mh. — ^These twenty-four hours commenced with fresh gales from the W. and W. IST. W., with squally, snowy weather. The land about Cape Horn still in sight. At two p. M. saw a ship bearing about S. E., standing upon the wind, to the northward. We continued to have strong gales from the westward, with frequent and' heavy snow squalls VOYAGE m THE SHIP GOVEKNOE CLINTON. 425 througliout all these twenty-four hours. Still beating against the westerly gales, tacking and wearing every four or six hours. At meridian, saw the land about Cape Horn, bearing IST. "W. by compass, ten or twelve leagues distant. Lat. by obs. 56° 31' S. Long, the same as yesterday, 61° 21' W. Wednesday, July 20th. — ^These twenty-four hours, like the last, commenced with fresh gales from the westward, with a high sea running, attended with squalls of snow and hail. At midnight it blew so violently, that we could only carry a close- reefed main-topsail, and a reefed foresail, with now and then the storm, main and mizzen staysails. At noon this day, the thermometer fell down to 28° in the cabin, and the water that came on deck instantly froze. The decks and rigging were cov- ered with ice and snow, so that it was difficult to work the ship, and almost impossible to gain any thing by beating to wind- ward, against these violent storms and tempests. Lat. by obs. 56° 44' S. Long, about the same as yesterday, say 67° 20' "W". Thursday, July 21st. — ^These twenty-four hours, like the last, commenced with a violent gale from the westward, with squally weather. Still plying to windward under close reefed main- topsail and reefed foresail. At midnight, wore ship to the S. S. E.- — the gale a little more moderate ; set close-reefed topsails and reefed courses. At four p. m. wore ship to the northward and westward. The wind now hauled to the S. S. "W., with much snow, and dark, gloomy weather. At eight a. m., soon after daylight saw Cape Horn again, bearing N. by "W. by com- pass, distant six or seven leagues. At the same time, Barne- velts Island, near Cape Horn, bore N. by E. by compass, dis- tant nine or ten leagues. At this time the weather became clear, which gave us another good view of Cape Horn, St. Francis' Bay, and the adjacent land. Cape Horn is the extreme southern point of Hermite's Island. It is a high hill, or small mountain, and is, at this time, covered with snow. The land immediately adjoining the Gape to the northward being low, makes it appear, at a distance, like a detached headland, or a separate island. The mouth of St. Francis' Bay seemed to be about five or six leagues wide, and 1 should judge very easy of access ; I conclude, if compelled by necessity to seek a port for ■426 VOYAGE IN THE SHIP GOVEENOE CLINTON. shelter, that many good harbors may be found in the Bay of St. Francis, and to the northward and eastward of Cape Horn, in what is called, on th«e charts, Nassau Bay. I also observed, that when we approached near the land, the wind and weather became more mild and moderate, and the sea much smoother. During these twenty-four hours we have had little or no current, notwithstanding the gales have been so violent from the west- ward ; still it is very diflScult to make much progress under close-reefed sails, with a high head sea always running against us. At seven a. m. wore ship, and stood off shore to the south- ward; wind more moderate. At llh. 0' 19" A. M. the longitude per the chronometer was 67° 35' 0" W. At this time Cape Horn bore JST. by E. true course, distant thirty-eight miles, which makes the chronometer differ but two miles from the longitude of the Cape, as laid down by Bowditch. No observation of the sun at noon, it be- ing dark and cloudy. Friday, July 22d. — These twenty-four hours commenced with brisk breezes at S. "W., with dark, cloudy weather. At one o'clock p. M. passed near an American ship. We showed our ensigns to each other ; she standing on shore to the N. W., and we standing off shore to the S. S. E. ; wind about S. W. by "W. At six o'clock in the evening it blew so violently from the S. "W., and the sea was so high, that we were obliged to take in all sail again, except a close-reefed main-topsail and mizzen staysail. The weather was now very cold and dreary, with much ice and snow about the decks, so that the ship was completely cased with ice. Thermometer in the cabin down to 27°. I think this gale was more severe than any of the preceding ones. These twenty-four hours end with a continuation of the same violent tempest from the S. W., with a mountainous sea run- ning. Latitude by observation 57° 6' south ; longitude per ac- count, say 67° 10' W. Our seamen are a fine set of men ; not one of them has flinched from his duty since we left New York, although they have been so severely tried by heat, cold, tempest and storm. Perfect order and good discipline reign throughout the ship, every man obeys with alacrity, and they seem to vie with each VOYAGE m THE SHIP GOVEENOE CLINTON. 427 cfther to buffet the tempest, and with the most indomitable per- severance to weather Cape Horn at all hazards. Saturday, July 2Zd. — ^These twenty-four hours commenced with a continuation of the same S. "W". gale which we had yes- terday, and it has been decidedly the worst and most disagreea- ble one we have encountered since we left New York. Through- out the night it blew a perfect hurricane, with violent squalls of hail and snow, with a mountainous sea running. We have been lying to all these twenty-four hours under a close-reefed main-topsail and mizzen staysail. The decks are now loaded with ice and snow, and the ropes about the bows of the ship are all cased and covered with ice to thrice their usual size. At a moderate calculation we have on deck and about the sides of the ship, at least fifteen tons of snow and ice. Our situation at daylight this morning was very gloomy ; lying to off Cape Horn in the depth of winter, the ship covered with ice and snow, with constant and violent gales from the westward, roaring at times like letting off the steam from a powerful engine. No observation of the sun. Latitude by D. E.. 57° 0' south ; longitude by account, about 66° 45' "W. Thermometer in the cabin at 24° above zero. Sunday, July 24:th. — ^These twenty-four hours commenced with fresh gales from the south, with a high sea still running from the westward, from the effect of the late severe gales from that quarter. At one p. m. wore ship to westward, and set clos6-reefed topsails and storm staysails. The weather being a little more moderate, we were enabled to proceed on our course at the rate of two or three knots the hour. At six p. M. strong gales, with squalls of snow and hail, handed the fore and mizzen topsails. At six a. m. set close- reefed fore and mizzen topsails again. At ten a. m. saw the land about Cape Horn, bearing W. by S. per compass, distant about six or seven leagues. Wore ship to the S. E., and stood off shore, not being able to weather the land about Cape Horn : much ice and snow still about the decks and rigging ; the ther- mometer in the cabin generally down to 24° above zero. Lati- tude by an indifferent observation, 56° 6' south. Longitude 428 VOYAGE m THE SHIP GOVEEITOE CLmTOU. per account, about 67° 0' "W". The gales are so violent, and al- ways so contrary, that it is with the greatest difficulty we are able to hold our ground, with the utmost vigilance and unre- mitting perseverance. Monday, July 26th. — ^These twenty-four hours commenced with fresh gales at S. by W., with violent squalls of hail and snow, attended with a high sea : now under close-reefed topsails and reefed courses. At four p. m. saw Barnevelts Island, near Cape Horn, bearing S. W. by compass, about six leagues dis- tant, and notwithstanding we now have a southerly wind, are not able to profit by it, as we are not far enough to the west- ward to weather Cape Horn. "We are still doomed to beat to windward, under close-reefed sails, and can barely hold our own against the stormy tempest and high, prevailing, contrary sea, which we are daily struggling against, and hoping for some favorable change. We have generally stood off eight hours, and on shore six, and with great exertion have thus far nearly held our groimd against a long continuation of contrary gales, adverse currents, and a high, rolling sea. Latitude by obser- vation, 55° 51' S. Longitude by account, about 66° 60' west. Our seamen all hold out remarkably well. Up to this date not one of them has been sick, or disabled in any way from do- ing his duty manfully. Tuesday, July 26tk. — ^These twenty-four hours commenced with fresh breezes from the southward, with occasional snow squalls. At eight p. m. saw the land about Cape Horn, bearing W. S. W., about three or four leagues distant. "Wore ship ofi" shore to the eastward, not being able to stand any longer on the other tack. During the night we wore and tacked ship gener- ally every four or six hours, under double-reefed topsails and reefed courses. At seven a. m., daylight, Cai)e Hoi-n bore "W. S. W., distant about six or seven leagues. At eight a. m. made several short tacks to windward, hoping to weather the Cape ; but the wind being contrary and baffling, with a strong current setting to the IST. E., we were not able to do so. Moderate breezes from the southward, and dark, cloudy weather. No observation of the sun this day. Latitude by D. E. 55° 59' S. Longitude about 66° 20' "W. One of our largest hogs died last VOYAGE IN THE SHIP GOVEENOE CLINTON. 429 night with cold and fatigue, notwithstanding the animal was sheltered and covered with a sail along with four others, who thus far have survived the cold and bad weather. Wednesday, July 'itith. — First part of these twenty-four hours, moderate breezes from the S. S. E., and open, cloudy weather. At four p. m. Cape Horn bore by compass S. W., dis- tant ten or eleven leagues. We found a current setting to the N. E., say about half a mile the hour. The wind being moderate and the weather clear, we stood in near the land until nightfall, when we tacked ship and stood off shore for several hours. Strong breezes at S. "W". by S. At nine o'clock in the morning, saw Cape Horn again, bearing S. "W. by S., about twelve leagues distant. Strong gales at S. "W. and clear weather. We found during the whole of the last twenty-four hours, a sensible difference in the temperature of the air. At noon this day, the thermometer rose to 37° above zero, and all the ice and snow have disappeared from the decks and rigging ; and notwithstanding the wind is contrary, things generally wear a much better appearance than usual. Latitude by a good observation, 65° 56' S. At noon Cape Horn bore W. S. W. by compass, ten leagues distant. The variation of the compass is about 22°, or say two points easterly. Thv/rsday, July 28 this was taken out on our starboard quarter, and hove taut, to prevent the brig from being forced into the bayou. The next morning, I hired one of the most powerful steamboats on the river, to force off the Brilliant, with an agreement with the cap- tain, that if he succeeded, I would give him two hundred dol- lars, and if he did not, after a fair trial, I would give him one hundred and thirty for his trouble. He tried, but to no pur- pose ; and after parting a new ten-inch cable, gave it up, re- marking, that if the brig were lying on the bank, entirely out of the water, he could drag her off; but that she was so bedded in the sand, and lay broadside against the current, that she could not be got off without taking out a part of the cargo. I then sent my mate, Mr. Hepburn, to 'New Orleans, for a lighter. On the 10th, he returned with a schooner, when we took out one thousand and fifty bags of coffee, and dispatched her to E"ew Orleans ; and notwithstanding we had lightened the Brilliant, we could not get her off ; on the contrary, the more we light- ened, the further she was forced over the bar, into the outlet. After this we made another attempt with two steamboats, in a hne, with a large cable led through the hawse hole and fastened to the mainmast, and then, after a fair trial, with almost force enough to tear the mast out of her, they gave it up as a hope- less case. I then ordered a second lighter down, and took out another thousand bags; thus far we had been almost constantly employed, day and night. Besides our own crew I hired some six or eight laboring men to assist us, at the rate of two dollars per day.' On the 26th, after getting out the greater part of the cargo, the owner of the Prairie, Mr. K., came down from ISTew 37 578 FOTIETH VOYAGE IN THE BEIG BEILLIANT. Orleans with the steamboats Prairie and Porpoise, and made the following agreement with me : that he would make another trial with the two boats to haul off the Brilliant, and if they suc- ceeded, I should pay him five hundred dollars, and if they did not, they should have nothing for their trouble. They then placed both boats in a line, with cables fastened to our masts and gave such tremendous jerks, that I almost feared they would be dragged out of our unfortunate brig ; still they could not get her off, and, according to agreement, received nothing for their pains. The next day, notwithstanding we had out two large anchors with heavy cables, the Brilliant, at four o'clock in the afternoon, went into the bayou, and was secured alongside the west bank of the creek, in seven fathoms of water. During our stay thus far at this disagreeable place, we had been terribly annoyed with sand flies and mosquitoes, and had suffered every incon- venience that shipwrecked seamen are destined to experience, such as being in the midst of a mixed population, made up from almost all the nations of Europe, and rather a bad speci- men from the United States. I state with pleasure, however, that there were some honorable exceptions, and that Mr. Donelson, the principal proprietor of the land in this vicinity, was a kind, humane man. My family and crew were always well treated by him, and during our stay at Carrion Crow he was always obliging and rendered us many favors. On the Slst we commenced discharging the coffee, and found it necessary to transport it by land from the bayou to the bank of the Mississippi, and there put it into boats. In this way we shipped it on board of a schooner lighter, called the Gladiator. We had ten men employed besides our own crew, so that in the course of two days, we finished discharging the Brilliant, and had on board the Gladiator the balance of the cargo, comprising 500 bags of coffee. The next morning, I embarked with my family and all the crew of the Brilliant (except the chief mate, Mr. H.) on board the Gladiator, for New Orleans ; we were soon taken in tow of the steamboat Phoenix, and proceeded up to the city, at which place we arrived at one o'clock in the afternoon. FOURTH VOYAGE IN THE BEIG BEILLIANT. 579 Mr. H. hired a man to cook on board, and remained quietly there until I returned. After paying off the crew of the Brilliant, I agreed with the owner of the Prairie to proceed with that boat down to the bayou, make one more trial to get the brig into the Mississippi, and settle all our difficulties amicably. On the 16th of April we went down the river with the Prairie, and the next day, with a long cable fastened to the bows of the brig, at the mouth of the creek (the steamboat being in the Mississippi), took her again in tow, and almost succeeded in getting her out ; but just at the veiy moment when she was nearly over the bar, she gave a rank sheer, parted the cable, and was again driven by the current back into the bayou ; and although there was no insur- ance upon her, I concluded to let her remain there. I then employed eight or ten men, stripped off all the ligging, sails, anchors, cables, boats — ^in fine, all I could get from the wreck. I hired an Eastern schooner, called the Choctaw, to carry all her materials to Il^ew Orleans, to be disposed of for the most they would bring ; and here ends the life of the good brig Bril- liant. We left Carrion Crow in the schooner Choctaw, on the 21st of April, and the next day got up to New Orleans. On the 28th, the hull, rigging, sails and every thing appertaining to the Brilliant, was sold at auction on the Levee. General Remarks on Carrion Crow, a/nd the Region about the Mouths of the Mississipjpi. I remained at the bayou from the dth of March until the 21st of April, and during that period saw a good deal of this sin- gular place. As everybody knows, the land for some twenty or thirty miles above the mouths of this great river is alluvial, and made up of logs and mud, that come down and are lodged on each side of this mighty stream. After ascending the river about twenty miles from its mouth, by going up the rigging a little way above the deck, one can see the ocean on both sides, only a short distance from its bank ; and when landing on the 580 FOUETH VOYAGE IN THE BEIG BRILLIANT. banks of the river, one can walk for miles on mud and logs, among the reeds and rushes that grow up in the crevices be- tween them. It frequently happens, when the Mississippi is very high, that it breaks loose from its peutup channel, and thus forms creeks or bayous, which soon become large and rapid streams ; and such an one is the Carrion Crow Bayou, which had no existence until a few years ago. There is little or no security for the permanent continuance of any location in this region ; a creek may close up in one place, and break out in another, and where the land appears firm and solid to-day, it may sink to-morrow. During our stay at this bayou, whole acres of land would disappear in a day. Alongside the bank where my brig lay, there were seven or eight fathoms of water — the land was constantly giving waj' ; and when we discharged oilr coffee, we were obliged to procure very long planks to slide it down upon, and thus place it at least fifteen or twenty feet from the bank ; and even at this distance, it was unsafe to leave any considerable quantity, as it might all be submerged in an instant. We had several strong gales of wind while lying here, and it was absolutely astonishing to see the changes made along .the banks of the creek, even in a single day. There is here a sparse population spread over a large space. They mostly live in small houses or huts planted along the main river, and occasionally on the bayous. They are generally a mixture of all nations, with a pretty large sprinkling of Creole French. Besides these, there are many sailors of different nations, who are too lazy to pursue any regular business, and prefer leading here a sort of vagabond life — going about in boats from place to place, catching fish and oysters, and some- times obtaining an accidental job from some shipwrecked cap- tain like myself. Many of them have wives or women with whom they live, who are probably more dissolute than them- selves. Some of them, a little more cunning than their fellows, contrive to keep little shops and retail liquor at an enormous profit. In the fall and winter, there are some shrewd men who own large boats, and follow the business of catching and open- ing oysters on the shoals and banks along the sea-coast, or on FOUETH VOYAGE IN THE BEI6 EEILLIANT. S81 some of the neighboring islands. These men hire the stragglers by the month to catch and open oysters, -which are found here in great abundance. For many miles, the shoals and banks are covered with them. They appear to be inexhaustible, and if necessary, I think the whole United States might be supplied from this region. They are put into large kegs or half-barrels, taken to New Orleans, from thence sent into the interior States and produce large sums of money. Although the most of these men are a drunken, improvident set of bemgs, still I am told, there are some of them who pick up considerable property. I saw a female, wife to one of the leaders of these oyster col- onies, who appeared shrewd and very intelligent. She often encamped for weeks and months with these men who were hired by her husband, and I was told she could open more oysters in a day than any man belonging to the gang. She was a mid- dle-aged woman, rather good looking, and, I think, a native of Sweden. I visited several of the huts of these people, and some- times found them comfortable habitations, but generally, badly built and very dirty. They are terribly annoyed with sand- flies and mosquitoes. Therefore, taking every thing into con- sideration, I should pronounce theirs a wretched mode of living, and only suitable for idle vagabonds, who are unfit subjects for a more civilized state of society. During my stay there, I em- ployed many of them to labor on board the Brilliant, and often purchased from them oysters, chickens, eggs, etc. I managed to get along with this heterogeneous population without diificul- ty, and found them generally ready to labor or assist me when- ever I ma,de the given signal of setting my colors and firing a gun. It was curious to see how soon this straggling population could be called together upon any exciting occasion. In a neighborhood where there could scarcely be seen more than two or three huts, I could, in less than thirty minutes, assemble twen- ty or thirty men, women and children. From the fact of my lying here so long, I became well known to the inhabitants for many miles in extent ; so that the Bayou Carrion Crow and the brig Brilliant became somewhat conspicuous objects, and many idlers paid us a visit, and frequently strolled about the precincts of the outlet. My friend Donelson knew the character of most 582 FOUETH VOYAGE IN THE BEIG BEELLIANT. of these people and often gave me a Hnt to avoid those of dubi- ous standing. "Whenever these abandoned scoundrels came on board, I took the precaution to get our muskets, pikes and swords on deck, to clean, and often took care to discharge a few mus- kets to convince these marauders that we were ready for them and were not to be caught napping. In fine, if it were not for the frequent visits of the United States revenue cutters at the mouths of the Mississippi, it would be unsafe to live in a shipwrecked vessel with a valuable cargo. After the sale of the Brilliant and her materials, on the 28th of April, I employed an insurance broker, to make up a general average on the Brilliant, her cargo and freight, according to the custom and usage of the State of Louisiana. Messrs. Wil- liam G. Hewes & Co. had now sold the cai'go at very good prices, so that the voyage was soon closed. I took a statement of the average with me, to present to the underwriters in New-York, and left a second copy in the hands of my friends. I settled every thing appertaining to the brig, with my consignees, to our mutual satisfaction. And now, concluding this account of my last and final voy- age in the Brilliant, I add with pleasure, that I have ever found William G. Hewes, Esq., strictly honest and just, and a most worthy, intelligent gentleman. In a few days, I arranged all my business in New Orleans, and on the 27th of May, proceeded with my wife and daughter up the Mississippi on my way to New- York, and after a pleasant voyage of fifteen days, arrived safe at that city on the 11th of June, 1841. On my return, I called on the two insiirance companies who had insured the freight and cargo of my brig, and presented them all the docu- ments relating to the unfortunate loss of this vessel. We had an amicable settlement, when they paid me the balance due, agreeably to the general average made and adjusted in New Or- leans. I believe the underwriters were satisfied with my con- duct, during the whole of our disastrous voyage and final ship- wreck in the Mississippi. I think they were convinced that I saved them every expense in my power in getting the coffee up to New Orleans, and guarding it from theft and plunder during our long and tedious detention at the Bayou Carrion Crow. FOUETH TOYAGE IN THE BEIG BEILLIANT. 583 I have now closed the last voyage in the Brilliant, and although I met with many trials and difficulties in this brig, still, in the end, she proved a fortunate vessel for me. It will be remem- bered that I purchased her in 1837, with the hope of retrieving, if possible, what I had lost by the Great Fire and other casual- ties in December, 1836. With this object in view, I pressed forward with persevering industry and self-denial, and, notwith- standing my brig was finally lost, without having one cent in- sured upon her, still I am happy to add, that at the end of four years, I cleared the round sum of twenty thousand dollars, and thus repaired all my losses by the extensive conflagration. T now began to feel that I was growing old, and that it was about time for me to withdraw from active life, leaving the field of en- terprise and commercial pursuits to the rising generation. I pur- pose hereafter to attend to the education of my children, and to spend the residue of life in quiet repose. THE END.