ASIA i»nfln,"'ji.i*»T'! h CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Cornell University Library DS 485.Z5M14 With the Zhob field force, 1890, 3 1924 024 120 192 The original of tiiis book is in the Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924024120192 WITH THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE 1890 -' -^^ \- o z o w UJ > o _l z < I FiTEiuii/ a/ ■ .--V .*■>- m- J 'O J -^ ^'' WITH THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE 1890 BY CAPTAIN CRAWFORD McFALL K.O.Y.L.I. WITH NINETY ILLUSTRATIONS FROM DRA WINGS BY THE AUTHOR NEW YORK MACMILLAN AND CO. 1895 h All rights reserved 2)eCiicate& TO THE KING'S OWN YORKSHIRE LIGHT INFANTRY CONTENTS COMMERCIAL AND POLITICAL IMPCiKTANCE OF THE ^Holi VALLEY . I SUMMARY OF FOREIGN EXPEDITIONS ..... 4 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE ....... lo QUETTA TO HINDU BAGH ....... 15 HINDU B.A.GH TO TAHNISHFA ....... 33 TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI ........ 77 APOZAI TO NAMUR KALAN AND MOGUL KOT .... 121 FROM NAMUR KALAN AND MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS . . 1 6y WITH THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE 1890 COMMERCIAL AND POLITICAL IMPORTANCE OF THE ZHOB VALLEY Owing to the disturbances which have for many years been taking place in the rugged and impracticable country which forms the natural barrier between the British Indian Empire and Afghanistan, that district has been, and still is, the object of a considerable amount of attention on the part of our military authorities. The warlike and bloodthirsty nature of the nomadic tribes which infest the place, as well as the difficulties to travel presented by the rocky, jumbled-together mountains, tended for long to keep the region an unknown quantity to Europeans. The approach of the Russians to Herat, however, and the necessity for providing as safe and scientific a frontier as possible for Hindustan, compelled our Government to make special efforts to enlaro-e our geographical knowledge of these mountain fastnesses. It is, besides, an important matter to keep all available trade routes between Afghan territory and India open ; for, whilst maintaining an independent 2 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE Afghanistan as a sort of buffer state to prevent trivial frontier disputes, it is also an essential part of the policy of the British Government to keep in thorough touch with the Ameer's dominions. The Zhob Valley is, for these and other reasons, of the highest importance to us. It is easily accessible from Ouetta, our great north-western stronghold, and it commands the Draband, Gonial and Tochi Passes on the Afghan side of our scientific frontier. Its possession, therefore, enables us to dominate the entire Gomal high- way which, though for some time almost disused owing to the dangerous attitude of the surrounding tribes, has from time immemorial been the great historic route for commercial traffic between India and the Central Asian bazaars. Not only that, but this highway abuts on the Ghazni road from Herat to Cabul, and its possession, therefore, gives the power to cut the communication which an invader might otherwise have between the two famous Afghan strongholds. Since the military expedi- tion, which is the subject of these pages, took place, sur- veys have been taken for a railway and roads in the Zhob Valley, which will practically unite the Sind-Pishin line with the Punjab system near Dera Ismail Khan. These cannot fail to be of the greatest strategic importance as supplying an alternative means of approach towards Candahar, and facilitating the massing of troops on that point from the direction of Northern India, besides supplying a speedy means of reaching Cabul should that capital be ever attacked by a foe hostile to British interests. IMPORTANCE OF THE ZHOB VALLEY 3 According to native reports, the older commercial route was not by the Gomal Pass, but through the narrower pass of the Chuhar-Khel-Dahna under the Takht-i-Suleiman direct to the Derajat. This medium of communication was, it is said, rendered impracticable some generations back by the occurrence of a landslip which blocked it up for a distance of about a mile and a half, since which time the Pawindahs, or Afghan traders, have invariably travelled to India by the longer northern route. SUMMARY OF FORMER EXPEDITIONS Prior to the year 1889, the Gonial Pass and, indeed, the whole Zhob Valley were almost entirely unknown to the British Government. The information in our possession was practically wholly derived from native sources. The earliest officer to traverse the district seems to have been Lieutenant Broadfoot, who, in 1839, joined a caravan of Pawindahs at Ghazni, and entered India by this road. The first serious attempt to open up the highway for British Indian traffic was made in 1878 by Major Macaulay, at that time Deputy-Commissioner of Dera Ismail Khan, but he only got about thirty miles up the pass, when his efforts at pacification were brought to a sudden close by the Mahsud raid on Tank, which led to the Mahsud Waziri expedition being undertaken in 1881. Then, in 1883, a native surveyor, Yusaf Sharif by name, was despatched to explore the pass under tribal escort, and he did useful work by successfully surveying the route as far as the junction of the Zhob and Gomal streams. This survey, however, only extended to about twenty-four miles beyond our then frontier line. For some years no attempt was made to complete Yusaf Sharif s work, until, in October 1887, the subject SUMMARY OF FORMER EXPEDITIONS 5 was again brought forward, and Mr. G. M. Ogilvie, the then Deputy-Commissioner of Dera Ismail Khan, proceeded personally up the pass as far as Spin to ascertain whether it would be possible to accomplish the work by an open reconnaissance by British officers under tribal escort. It was not at that time thought that any satisfactory result would ensue if the work were done secretly by native surveyors in the manner in which Yusaf Sharif had proceeded. Mr. Ogilvie, having reported favourably, the Government decided to order a complete examination of the whole route as far as Domandi, which is the junction of the Kundar and Gomal rivers. Accordingly, on the 6th of February, 1888, an expedition, consisting of Mr. Ogilvie, Captain R. A. Wahab, of the Survey Office, Captain A. H. Mason, R.E., and Lieutenant J. W. C. Hutchinson, of the 6th Punjab Infantry, started from Dera Ismail Khan for the pass. The various tribes through whose districts the expedition was to pass were to be responsible for its safe conduct, each within its own limits, and pecuniary rewards of stated amounts were promised to them for this service. Thus the Mahsud Waziris guaranteed the safe conduct of the expedition up to Khajuri Kach, under an escort of 150 foot and 12 horsemen (influential inaliks or head- men of the tribe), while beyond Khajuri Kach, the Zalli Khel Waziris, Dotanis, Suleiman Khel Ghilzais and Nasar Pawindahs arranged similarly to protect our sur- veyors. From the first, however, the attitude of the tribesmen was hostile. At Tank, where the surveying 6 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE party arrived on the Sth of February, the Wazirls were found collected in force to the number ultimately of from two to three thousand armed men. On the 9th, a murder was committed in a village quite close to Tank, which was traced to the Mahsud Waziri tribe, and, owing to the menacing and aggressive aspect of these natives, it was only after repeated efforts that anything like an agreement was arrived at as to the terms of their service. At last, on the 20th of February, the expedition got fairly started, and, having arrived at Gomal, quarters were pitched there. That night shots were fired in close proximity to the camp, one bullet actually penetrating the Deputy-Commissioner's tent, and the aggressors made good their escape to the hills. Notwithstanding the threatening aspect of affairs it was decided to move on next day to a spot about a mile beyond the frontier. In the course of this march the Mahsuds became still more violent, and actually stole some of the supplies of the expedition, and on the next day, February 22, a riot took place between these tribesmen and the Zalli Khel, which ended in about a dozen men, chiefly of the latter tribe, being severely wounded. It was then found necessary to deal more strictly with the Mahsuds, and these were told that they must withdraw a considerable portion of their force at once, failing which the expedi- tion would return. This ultimatum had, however, little effect, and as it was apparent that an organised resistance to the surveying party was in preparation and that useful results could hardly be expected, it was finally decided SUMMARY OF FORMER EXPEDITIONS 7 to retreat, which was done on the 24th of February by way of the Sheranna Pass. The unfortunate Issue of this expedition seemed to prove the impracticabihty of a satisfactory survey except by a well equipped force. Nothing was done, however, until 1889, when Sir Robert Sandeman (who had already, in the November of 1888, by permission of the Indian Government, traversed the Zhob Valley to within twenty- five miles of Khajuri Kach under the protection of his military escort and a picked troop of Brahui, Beluch and Pathan horsemen) submitted a proposal to extend a British protectorate over the Zhob Valley and the country lying between the Gomal Pass and Pishin. The whole matter was carefully discussed in the autumn of 18S9, with the result that Sir Robert Sandeman received authoritative orders to proceed at an early date to the Zhob Valley to explore the country of the Mandu Khel tribe as far as the junction of the Zhob and Gomal rivers. Accordingly, accompanied by an escort consist- ing of 470 sabres of the 6th Bengal Cavalry, 500 rifles of the 23rd Bengal Infantry (Pioneers), and No. 3 (Peshawar) Mountain Battery, all under the command of Colonel Jennings of the 6th Bengal Cavalry, Sir Robert Sandeman, as agent of the Governor-General, and Mr. R. I. Bruce, CLE., as Deputy-Commissioner of Dera Ismail Khan and as representing the Punjab Government, started at the fall of the year to accomplish their task. The Ameer of Afghanistan was at the same time made acquainted with the objects of the expedition, 8 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE lest he might imagine it to betoken some aggressive movement against the integrity of his dominions. On December i8, 18S9, Major-General Sir George White, who commanded the Ouetta district, inspected the military escort at Loralai, and on the 19th a start vi^as actually made from that place. After marching for four days, Murgha was reached, and on the 23 rd of the month the Ghoza plain, a high plateau of about the same elevation as Ouetta, was entered. Next day Garda was reached, the chief village of the Babar tribe, which came in to make submission, and two days after that the expedition entered Apozai. Here a durbar was held, at which the proposals of the British were ex- plained to the chief maliks of the Zhob district and agreements made for the safety of the Gomal Pass and the opening up of the Zhob route to commerce. From Apozai a reconnaissance was also sent out to the Kundar river, the intermediate district being surveyed without opposition. Only the Largha and Khiddarzai divisions of the Sherani tribesmen remained aloof and showed signs of unfriendliness. Apozai was made a station, and Captain I. Maclvor, political agent, was put in command, with an escort consisting of 160 sabres of the 6th Bengal Cavalry, two guns of the 3rd Mountain Battery, and 200 rifles of the 23rd Bengal Infantry. The main body proceeded to Khajuri Kach, reaching that place, at the junction of the Zhob and Gomal, on January 25, 1890, and after a halt of two days there, moved on to Nilai Kach on the 28th without mishap. SUMMARY OF FORMER EXPEDITIONS 9 except that a havildar of the 23rd Pioneers was murdered at Khajuri Kach just before starting. On January 29, Sir Robert Sandeman's party reached Tank. As we have seen, the Largha and Khiddarzai sections of the Sheranis alone openly refused to treat with Sir Robert Sandeman's e.\pedition. After the latter's return rumours continued to come in of the hostile intentions of these tribesmen, and in August of 1 890 the Foreign Department of the Government of India formally sanc- tioned the despatch of a punitive e.xpedition against them, to be carried out by troops from Ouetta by way of the northern Kakar country. The arrangements for this expedition were prepared by Sir Robert Sandeman, as chief political officer, with Major General Sir George White, commanding the Ouetta district, the latter officer being detailed to conduct the military operations. The deliberations of these officers ended with the issue of definite orders to form the '' Zhob Field Force." THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE The Zhob Field Force contained tlie following troops : No. 7 Mountain Battery of Royal Artillery under Colonel Morgan, and the 2nd Battalion of the King's- Own Yorkshire Light Infantry, under the command of Major Symons, consisting of companies B, C, E, and F, under Captains Butler-Creagh, Milton, Burke, and Pyrke respectively, with Lieutenants Ellis, Cashel, and Bond, and 2nd Lieutenant Dowdall ; Adjutant, Cap- tain Ottley ; Transport Officer, Lieutenant Rogers ; and Quartermaster Judge. I was attached to F company as subaltern to Captain Pyrke. Each company consisted of four sergeants, one colour-sergeant, five corporals, and one hundred and ten privates. The battalion was further supplemented by the band, which numbered twenty-four, twenty buglers, one warrant officer, one band sergeant, and one bugle major. The other troops in the force were the i8th Bengal Lancers, No. i Company (Bombay) Sappers and Miners, the 2nd and 3rd Battalions of Beluchis (or, in other words, the 29th and 30th Bombay Infantry), two sections of the 23rd British Field Hospital, and two sections of the 24th,, and three sections of the 25th Native Field Hospitals^ THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE ii The native infantry battalions, it should be added, were each 550 strong. As to baggage, my allowance consisted of a tent (80 lbs.), shared with a brother subaltern, and personal luggage (So lbs.), 70 lbs. for oneself, and 10 lbs. for servant. The latter was composed of valise, blankets, waterproof sheet, khaki uniform, spare boots and laces, great coat. Balaclava cap, socks, shirts, cholera belts, towels, handkerchiefs, soap, hold-all, fur-boots, Cardigan jacket, journal, enamelled iron mug, canvas bucket, lantern, candles, matches, dubbin, cup and plate, knife and fork, spoon, sketching block and book, paint box, and minor items. Tlie men carried on the person, coats (on belt with braces), one tin pot hung on water bottle, and forty rounds of ammunition (in pouches). The weight of their kit was limited to forty- one pounds, these including one spare coat, one glen- garry, one spare trousers, one Balaclava cap, one wadded coat, one pair boots, one jersey or Cardigan, two flannel shirts (one on and one in kit), one tin dubbin, spare laces, one hold-all, three pairs of socks, three blankets, one boot brush, one waterproof sheet, one settrinjee (a stout kind of mat, of cotton stuff, made into a bag at one end to hold the kit and to roll up, in which case the bed strap would fasten it), two towels, one pair mits, so^ip, one tin pot and plate (the former being carried on the water-bottle strap), and two cholera belts. Two kits were put up into a sa/eeiah, a strong bag of hemp or fibre, with loops at the mouth through 12 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE which a rope is put to lace it up when packed, and several of these saleetahs were roped on to each camel, one on either side (or else hung on to the camel saddle in loading nets). As to ammunition, there was allowed for each infantry soldier, besides the 40 rounds carried on the person, 50 rounds carried on mules, and 60 rounds carried on camels. Each cavalry soldier was allowed 20 rounds carried on person, 20 rounds carried in wallets, and 60 rounds carried on camels. Besides this, 100,000 rounds of Martini-Henry rifle and 10,000 rounds of carbine ammunition were ordered to be held in reserve at Apozai. Two hundred rounds of buckshot cartridges per regiment, and 100 per battery and company of sappers and miners were also carried for sentry use especially at night. The animals used for transport were camels, mules, and some ponies with the cavalry. The commissariat feeds apportioned to these were as follows : for each camel, 4 lbs. grain, 20 bhussa ; for each mule of the first class, 5 lbs. grain, 15 bhussa; and for each mule of the second class, 4 lbs. grain, 14 bhussa. Each mule carried 160 lbs. and each camel 400 lbs. The rations allotted to each man per day were com- posed of bread i lb., meat i lb., flour or rice \ lb., salt § oz., tea f oz., potatoes | lb., other vegetables \ oz., and fire- wood, these rations to be increased when on the march. The .supplies collected were for two and a half months, and depots were formed at Kazha and at Apozai. The THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE 13 force itself took twenty-five days' supplies with it on leaving Hindu Bagh. No dogs were permitted to accompany the column. As no means were available to send any sick men back any such were ordered to accompany the force, additional ambulance as might be rendered necessary being allowed to be provided by the commanding officer. Mules were fitted up with big padded pack-saddles of rough canvas, upon which any disabled warriors sat. The troops composing the Zhob Field Force were all stationed at Ouetta when the order for the formation of the expedition was issued, except the i8th Bengal Lancers and 2nd Beluchis, who were at Loralai, and the 3rd Beluchis, who were at Hyderabad, in Scinde. The regiments at Loralai were ordered to proceed by road thence to the Zhob Valley, where they would join the main body, while the 3rd Beluchis were ordered to proceed by railway to Khanai, a place on our line of march, where the main body was to jsick them up. It was arranged that Mr. Bruce, the officiating Commissioner of the Derajat, should join Sir Robert Sandeman in the Khiddarzai country in order to settle questions with that section of the tribe of the Sheranis. Mr. Oldham, of the Geological Survey, also accompanied the force to examine the oil deposits said to exist in the districts to be visited. The first objective of the expedition was Tahnishpa, a point of considerable importance, since it was known to be largely under the control of Bungal Khan, son of 14 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE Dost Muhammad, a famous outlaw. The original plan proposed for the operations of the Zhob Valley Force had included an endeavour to cut off the retreat of these outlaws and their followers into Afghan territory, but the Indian Government, considering that any move- ment very near the Afghan frontier might excite distrust in the mind of the Ameer, ordered the programme to be thus far altered, that no operations should be carried out north of the Kundar river, so rendering any flank turning movement impossible. The expedition, therefore, was to march direct for Tahnishpa. It was intended on the way, however, to divide up our force into three columns, and by causing these to converge upon Tahnishpa by different routes, it was thought more geographical knowledge might be gathered with respect to the district and at the same time a greater number of the tribesmen might be brought to realise our power. QUETTA TO HINDU BAGH We, who were stationed at Ouetta, ought to have moved out on the 25th of September, but at the last moment it was found that there was not a sufficient number of camels forthcoming, in consequence of which a delay of two days oc- curred. The British portion of the Ouetta force, however, got away on the 27th, No. I Com- pany, Bombay Sappers and Miners, with the Native Field Hospital, following on the next day. Our start was not without its excitement. We had been in barracks at Quetta for a very long time, and the stay there had become somewhat monotonous. The prospect of active service, therefore, came undoubtedly as a relief to all the members of the force. Besides, i6 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE the barracks at Ouetta consist, for the most part, of mud houses covered with corrugated iron roofs, which are, consequently, very cold in winter and very hot in summer, and the change to camp life, if not a great improvement upon our previous mode of existence, was certainly likely to be more exciting and lively. And yet life at Quetta now is much better than when we first took the place, for then our army of occupation had to live entirely in tents. I had been appointed to act as Field Treasury Officer until Tulloch, who was our Commissariat and Transport Officer and who was also to fulfil the duties of this office, should meet us. As such accordingly I acted until the 5th of October, when I delegated my trust at Kazha. I began my duties on the 24th of September, having handed to me half a lakh or 50,000 rupees, packed in fourteen boxes or cases, to be used for pay and other military purposes. There were nine boxes of whole rupees, 5000 being in each box in five bags of 1000 each, one box of small silver to the amount of 4500 rupees, two boxes of single pice each to the value of 1 50 rupees, and two boxes of double pice each to the value of 100 rupees. Prior to the orders to start I had of course to see all this treasure properly packed into chests. These were of oak. all heavily padlocked, and were loaded upon camels, each animal having two chests, one on either side. As about forty rupees weigh one pound, the total must have weighed considerably over 1250 pounds. OUETTA TO HINDU BAGH 17 When In camp the treasure was under the charge of the Quarter Guard. Naturally, every one at Ouetta who could do so turned out to see us start. Many, too, followed the agreeable custom which prevails in India and rode out three or four miles with us to see us fairly on our way. I, of course, was engaged with my treasury in the baggage column l^^-^-^^^-^^j^^^r^'j^-^z^^ r-. in rear, and here there was plenty of din, camels gurg- ling, mules squealing-, these sounds being mixed with the cries of the native drivers and escort encouracfine and driving the animals, and the strains of the bands playing at the front. Our first destination was Kuchlak, distant about eleven and a half miles from Quetta. We marched out from Ouetta about 7.20 a.m. and arrived at Kuchlak about 12.15 I'-M-. making three short halts on the road of a few minutes each, to enable the column to get properly in order and close up. As we have seen, the Headquarters column did not get away from Ouetta as a whole on the 27th of September, i8 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE our division, consisting of No. 7 Mountain Battery, Royal Artillery, the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry and the two sections of the British Field Hospital, moving off on that day, and the other, consisting of No. i Company Bombay Sappers and Miners, and the Native Field Hospital following ne.xt day. It was not till the 30th of September that the two divisions became united, the first having halted that day at Khanozai, and the second coming up from Khanai with the 3rd Beluchis, who had joined it at the latter place. Kuchlak was well known to most of us on account of the number of karezes to be found there, stocked with "blue rocks." These karezes are a series of holes let down vertically into the ground, usually at the base of a mountain side, at intervals of about ten yards or so. In some places as many as a hundred can be seen close together, in rows. They are to be found all over Beluchistan, more especially where there are no rivers or streams. The object of their construction is to collect the water which percolates underground, and they thus form a series of artesian wells, the water in which is, owing to the depth, kept very cool. The natives begin by constructing one, stopping when they come to water ; they then proceed to make others up and down the slope, or along the plain, as the case may be. These holes are then left open, with the dug-out earth thrown up and piled round the opening, the water collected below being used as required, mostly for irrigating the melon, maize and other patches of cultivation about. Some of OUETTA TO HINDU BAGH 19 these karezes are very old. Most of them, too, are splendid places for shooting pigeons ; it is in the sides of these holes that the wily blue rocks make their nests, a cool and shady retreat ; they may be seen seated or strutting about on the great lumps of earth at the mouth of the shafts, and cooing or calling to each other, being generally at home at sunset or in the early morning, going far afield in the daytime to forage in the country around. Of course, on the present occasion we could not go up to our old karezes at Kuchlak to try our luck at pigeon shooting, but while stationed at Ouetta we had frequently much pleasant sport, riding out with our guns to these karezes and shooting the birds as they came flying out. The usual method of turning them out was by throwing down loose earth or stones which, as a rule, made them leave their cool retreat, and, of course, one never knew out of which particular karez they were going to pop. Some karezes, especially the older ones, are the homes of porcupines, and our men used to get them frequently with their dogs ; the quills of the little spikey pigs were often found lying near the mouths of the shafts. Kuchlak is a fine camping-ground, and has a big commissariat forage store. Our march to this place was not a long one, but owing to the noise, bustle, and excitement of the start and of the preparation on the day before our start, as well as on the morning of our marching, we were glad when our companies tents were all pitched and the men settled, to 20 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE get off to our own tents and have a little quiet. The flies were a great nuisance. Here is my tent companion trying to evade them, sprawling on his valise, having cast his puttis. Puttis, by the way, are a long kind of bandage, wound round the leg from the ankle to just be- low the knee where they are either tied or strapped ; they are very comfortable for marching or riding, instead of leggings or long boots, and splendid things for hill climbing. They are worn by all our troops now in the East. Next morning (28th of September) we left Kuchlak about 7.20 A.M., for Khanai, where we arrived about I P.M., much to our satisfaction, for though the distance intervening between these places is only sixteen miles it was a hot, dry, dusty day. At Khanai we found an excellent camping-ground, and, what was more important from the thirsty soldier's point of view, a great quantity of splendid melons. These were the more valuable because the water supply of the place was far from being sweet. Three or four huge water-melons could be purchased here for an anna, the value of which in our coinage is about twopence, and the reader, therefore, need not be surprised to learn that Tommy did not delay very long entering into bargains with the natives for OUETTA TO HINDU BAGH 21 securing some of these melons. I have represented him as he appeared returning with his purchases, laden like a spoiled child with almost more than he could con- veniently hold. The byle, or humped cow, in this sketch is used chiefly tor draught purposes all over India. Khanai is itself a mere collection of mud huts, exactly similar to other settlements of the almost nomadic tribes which fre- quent this region. These settlements are never of ^^-^.- a very permanent nature, for if in the case of any one of them the water supply should fail, or if it should become uninhabitable for any other reason, the inhabitants simply remove to some new district, leaving their former township to fall to gradual ruin. Thus it is that these mountain regions are strewn with so many deserted and tumble-clown villages. It was here that the 3rd Beluchis joined us the same afternoon, marching into camp headed by their pipers. They had come by rail all the way from Hyder- abad, and Khanai was the last station on the Ouetta railway which we touched on our march, which was the reason why they met us here. In fact, in coming from 22 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE Quetta, we had marched practically all the way to Khanat alongside the railway. Here, too, it was that the treasury clerk who had been sent from Calcutta to look after the expedition's accounts joined us. He, of course, was a civilian, though I would not for a moment suggest that this was the cause of his meagre outfit. Apparently he thought himself sufficiently equipped for the exigencies of the campaign and for the duties of his post armed with the pair of scales which seemed to wholly compose his baggage ! He was one of those mortals whose sole idea of business is to weigh out everything", even money ! On the 29th of September we left Kanai about 7.5 a.m. and marched to Kanozai, a distance of about sixteen miles, arriving at the latter place about 2.15 p.m. At Kanozai we again found an excellent camping ground, and the water supply was plentiful and fairly good. Close to our camp was the bungalow, almost the only house in the district, which is occupied as a levy post house, and our Intelligence Department were in possession. For X OUETTA TO HINDU BAGH 2^ camp use, however, we had a field post ofiice of our own which is represented on the page opposite. The bo> or rather bag for letters may be seen hanging at the door way of the post tent, and a litde way off is the mail camel waiting to start upon its first stage. At Kanozai we made a halt of a day, and on the 30th of September, quite a flatter of excitement arose over the arrival of various notabilities. First of all there came about II A.M., under a salute from the mountain battery of thirteen guns, Sir Robert Sandeman, Political Agent to the Governor-General. Then about four o'clock in the afternoon another salute from eleven guns announced that Sir George White, the general officer commanding the force, had come into camp. Both of these had railed to Kanai, whence they followed us on to Kanozai. Mr. J. G. Apcar, the correspondent of the London Times, also joined the Zhob Field Force at Kanozai. He was the guest of the general officer commanding. It was on the 30th also that the second division of the Ouetta force, which we had left a day's march behind us at Ouetta, came up with us at Kanozai in company with the 3rd Beluchis, who had halted the previous day at Khanai. From this point we marched in one united body to Hindu Bagh. In the matter of fruit as a substitute for bad water we were worse off at Kanozai than we were at Kanai. The country in the Kanozai district is very bare, with the exception of a few patches of maize scattered about here and there, and no melons were to be had. What 24 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE was worse, during dinner our mess president gave out the blighting intelhgence that our supply of soda-water had run out and that from this point onwards we should consequently have no more aerated water. With the gruesome prospect of henceforth drinking the sweet water of the districts we were traversing, we began to regret the Ouetta Club with its cool "pegs" and " wilayat pani " (European water), the native name for soda-water. Next day, Wednesday, the ist of October, the bugles sounded the " Rouse " at 5.30 in the morning; for the march was expected to occupy a longer time, as the country seemed to be getting more difficult. Up to this point the country through which we had passed was fairly level ; now it got more undulating, especially as we nearecl Alurgha, which was the destination of this day's journey. On this occasion our column marched regi- mentally, the 3rd Beluchis moving out at 6.30 a.m., the 7th Mountain Battery at 7.15 a.m. and the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry at 8 a.m. The road to Murgha turned out better than was expected. Certainly it was better than the road between Ouetta and Kanozai, notwithstanding that it went up and down over small hills. Besides, there were two or three watering-places on the way. The road we tra- versed was what is called a kutcha road, merely an unmade marked out sandy track. The country around was very barren, only one or two patches of corn being visible, and here again no melons were to be had. Since OUETl^A TO HINDU BAGH 25 the water met with was decidedly unpalatable, owing to the large quantity of magnesia in it, we looked forward eagerly to another opportunity of getting water-melons like those at Kanai. Murgha, which is distant from Kanozai only about fifteen miles, was duly reached. Here our camping- ground was very bad, although the part selected con- sisted of kackcs, or terraced fields. These kaclies are curious, half artificial, half natural, hillside formations, being terraced naturally, but built up artificially so as to prevent their being washed or blown away, earth being precious in these rocky regions. Usually they are avail- able for cultivation, this being the reason ot their preservation. There was little, however, on the terraces on which we British troops were encamped, and the native troops were even worse off, being stationed on very stony ground. The word kache must be dis- tinguished from the term kacha, which means a mule. As a matter of fact, duringr this march our Tommies began to feel the effects of the hot, dry, sandy roads. Naturally, it went much against the grain to have to fall out of the ranks from sore feet, and we had very few cases of it, whilst many suffered severely before they gave in. When a man did suffer so much from blisters or any illness that he had to make use of the ambulance mules he presented a very sorry sight, which gave birth to the most raking witticisms from the mouths of his comrades. .Sometimes, too, these mules would make a bolt in order to visit a mule friend who 26 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE probably had fed alongside them when on transport service, and then Tommy Atkins or John Sepoy had to hang on like grim death, rifle, water-botde, and haversack all banging away, and their expostulations being drowned by the healthy braying of the mules who, without fear of bit or bridle, would charge on over doolies and field companions, to the great amusement C>.m. The water here was ample and of excellent quality, by far the best met with since we left Kuchlak. As we had not been able to find any by the way there was a general rush for it. Unfortunately, it only trickled out of the hill in a tiny stream, but the Royal Engineers soon made a capital watering-place by digging out a reservoir about twelve feet in diameter and about ten inches deep, into which the men could dip their tins and waterbottles, and from which the bheesties filled their mussaks. On this date, too, our English mail arrived. It had left Ouetta on the 4th, being forwarded on horses by dak : the levy post sowars riding from village to village, each in his turn, with their post-bags inside the curious saddle-bags, of variegated colours, hanging across their wiry and nimble horses. I made a sketch at Ali Khan Zhaba, when our en- campment was preparing. As I have already men- tioned, the men's kit-bags were made up into larger bags, called saleetahs, two or three kit-bags being packed into each saleetah, these being then loaded on to the trans- port camels. When the troops arrived at their camping- ground, a wood-cutting or stick-gathering party was sent out to Lifet firewood for the kitchens. We then waited until the baggage came up, which as a rule, with our 44 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE transport, was not long after our arrival ; after which the animals were sorted by companies and unloaded, and kits carried off to their respective tents. It was near Khushnob that, in 1884, a skirmish took place, in which several of Brigadier-General Tanner's men were killed. The place where these men are buried is about four-and-a-half miles from Khushnob, close by a water spring in the hills. On the 8th, "Rouse" was sounded at 4A.M., and we left our camping-ground at 5.35 a.m. The distance traversed on this day was only about ten miles, our objective being Sra Agbarg, also called Surag Bagh and Toiwar — henceforth to be known as Toi War — which we reached about 11.30 a.m. Owing to the rocky and stony nature of the ground — we had struck into the hills — our march was a difficult one. At Toi War we got water from pools in the river (the Toi) bed, under the upper camping-ground, but it was muddy and bitter. The camping-ground itself was fairly good, though stony in parts. When we arrived we found already encamped there the Commissariat Depot and the i8th Bengal Lancers and 2nd Beluchis, who had been ordered up from Loralai the previous day. Our force now consisted of No. 7 Mountain Battery, half a battalion of the Kind's Own Yorkshire Lio;ht Infantry, the i8th Bengal Lancers, the 2nd Beluchis (29th Regiment Bombay Infantry), No. i Company Bombay Sappers and Miners, and the Field Hospital. At Toi War we heard a rumour to the effect that HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 45 Bungal Khan, son of Dost Muhammad, had boked. He was said to have retreated in the direction of Tirwah. Next day we sent an ultimatum to him which he refused. On the 9th of October (Thursday), our column at Toi War was divided into two portions. The General Officer Commanding, Assistant - Adjutant - General, A.D.C., and Major Gaisford (Political), went on with the iSth Bengal Lancers and 2nd Beluchis, and one half of the Commissariat Depot convoy, to Sharan Kach, starting about 5 o'clock in the morning. These were to endeavour to join the column under Sir R. Sandeman and Colonel Nicolson at China or loeizai Kach. We of the King's Own Yorkshire Lig-ht Infantry (except B Company), and the other troops left at Toi War, on the other hand, were under orders to halt there on this date, and proceed on the loth, with four days' rations for "man and beast." Major and Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel Morgan, R.A., was in command. We will, however, for the present, follow up the G.O.C. Havins" in due course reached Sharan Kach on the 9th, they made a halt there for the night, starting again next morning about 5.30 for Tahnishpa. A squadron of the 1 8th Bengal Lancers led until the pass was reached, when the Beluchis took the lead. The pass is a long one, and the path winds among low hills most of the way. Though rocky in parts, it is, however, always passable for led horses. 46 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE On nearing Tahnishpa it was reported that Bungal Khan had deserted his so-called fort, and that there- fore our troops would not be put under the necessity of attackino^ him there. Lieutenant Rowlandson was thereupon sent off with fifty men of the 3rd Beluchis to reconnoitre this stronofhold. This he did, having- climbed up a most intricate and steep hill right into the stronghold. On his return, he reported that from the side from which our men were approaching it the place was impregnable, being protected against artillery fire by a huge slab of rock at the back, and huge boulders on the near side, the latter being loopholed ; and besides that only two men could approach it at a time, while a safe line of retreat led down to the valley of the Kundar river. It was undoubtedly a fine position for a few men to hold against any odds. When Lieutenant Rowlandson's party got up, they found ashes of some wood-fires, showing recent occu- pation, as well as a jezail, a Koran, and a lady's satchel filled with carrots. The Koran recovered was said to be a valuable one, which had been stolen from the son of Mulla Mushe-i-Alam. However, in order to capture Dost Muhammad and Bungal Khan, if at all possible. Lieutenant Chesney, with twenty- five lances of the 1 8th Bengal Lancers, started for the Kundar from Tahnishpa, at 5 A.^r. on the iith of October, as a personal escort to Captain Maclvor, our Political Ao-ent at the Zhob. The men they wanted managed to escape to the hills beyond the Kundar, but four HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 47 prisoners were captured, together with some camels, bullocks, donkeys, one horse and two muskets. It was discovered later on that the chief fugitives had made their way to Killa Jabbar in the Ghilzai country. Chesney's men also blew up a village and burned some others. They had been out nearly thirteen hours, and had traversed fifty or sixty miles, one horse dying of fatigue during the operations. Meanwhile, on the same day (the iith), General Sir George White went up the hill personally to have a look at Bungal Khan's rocky fortress. This he found to be somewhat roughly constructed, but very strong and on the very summit of the peak (8800 feet in elevation). In accordance with the wishes of the Chief Political Officer, the place was then blown up by Major Garwood, R. E. It was thouo-ht that this action would make a decided im- pression upon the tribesmen of the district. On the same day, Captain Mason, Deputy Assistant Quartermaster-General, and Lieutenant Mackenzie, arrived from Babu China ; and on the next day (Sunday, the 1 2th of October) the general officer commanding, with the two divisions thus reunited, left Tahnishpa at 6. 10 A.M. and arrived at Kuriawasta at 11 o'clock, there rejoining the main body, to which we must now return. The main body, as I have already stated, halted at Toi War on the 9th of October. The fertility of this place, like that of the other districts of this region, depends very much upon the season. This year, owing 48 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE to the drought, there was httle grass or grain of any kind. Sheep, too, which usually are plentiful, were scarce, having been chiefly sent to Musa Khel. The water here was very bad. Gunner G. Lee, of No. 2 Battery, Western Division of the Royal Artillery, died and was buried at Toi War. He had been clerk to the Deputy-Surgeon-General. Next day, the loth, we started about 5.30 a.m. for Sharan Kach, a distance of twelve miles, arriving there at 10.25 A.M. Our going was very rough along the bed of the Toi river. There was no dust, however, and plenty of shade, and good water in pools all the way, At Sharan Kach we encamped on the sand of the river bed, and our water supply there was decidedly better than at Toi, though not quite so clear. On the iith of October we left Sharan Kach about 5.30 A.M. for Kuriawasta, distant about eleven miles, arriving at the latter place at 10.30 a.m. We had two halts on the route, from 6.25 a.m. to 6.35 a.m. and from 8.45 A.M. to 9.45 a.m. We were to have gone on to Jogozai, a village about a mile further on, but on arrival HINDU BAGH TO FAHNISHPA 51 at Kuriawasta we found orders awaiting us to stop tliere. This place is in the Kazana district and formed an excellent camping-ground. We had, too, plenty of good water and splendid fishing. On the march, an old corporal of the Sappers and Miners made great bags at every halt on the streams. The fish appeared to be very confiding and ignor- ant of the sinful ways ^'^^^^^^^Splt^^^ 01 man, and very ^ '_^^>» Q^ood fish could be crot out of the tiniest ._ ,„^_>-^^-;.-v. ^^„, streams. ^.-^■' ?j**/> _' Our camp at Kuria- wasta was close to a peculiar rock formation, not at all unlike a ruin, with an inclined road suggesting a drawbrido-e, &c., which looked rather odd in such a wild out-of-the-way place. Indeed, as we marched in we thought it really must be a building. The camping-ground was of wide extent, on high ground overlooking both sides of the Toi nullah, from which water was obtained plentifully for all requirements. In quality this water was fairly good, but it had a brackish taste and leeches abounded in it. Grass, too, was abundant ; this is, in fact, the great grazing-ground for catde from Zhob, one of the numerous localities known as Khorassan. We halted at Kuriawasta on Sunday, Monday and Tuesday (12th to 14th of October). On Saturday, after our arrival, our signallers were busy all the afternoon 52 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE opening up communication by heliograph with the other column on the hills. Their signals were distinctly visible, flashing away briskly at the top of a distant blue mountain ridge. On Sunday morning about eleven o'clock the general officer commandingr came in, havine ridden in from Tahnishpa, a distance of sixteen or seventeen miles. In the afternoon our heliograph was again busy communicating with the signalling station at Tahnishpa. The camp at Kuriawasta was, as above stated, on high ground, whilst the signalling point above Tahnishpa also held an elevated situation, being on a spur of Azuk ; the prismatic compass-bearing from the headquarters camp to this point being 315°. After parade and breakfast, several of our party got hooks and cut rods out of the copses near the camp, after which we sallied forth in search of sport up the HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 53 stream, fishing the pools, and catching a lot of mahseer, some of good size. The mahseer is a common Indian fish, which makes a fairly good dish, but it is very bony and great art has to be exercised to get the best out of it when cooked. It was very amusing to watch the men in their dingy khaki and with their makeshift rods stand- ing on the edge of the stream, smoking steadily at their commissariat tobacco and fishing away solemnly all the while. Here and there, too, a camel would be seen quietly drinking among the groups. We heard a thrilling story of unpleasant adventure that day. It appeared that a transport mule driver, Mazulla by name, had been found by a small survey party's escort near China and brought into camp. He was very much exhausted when found, and declared that while he was out engaged cutting grass about Tahnishpa on the iith, his mule and his warm clothing had been taken from him by some Pathans, he himself being carried off by them to a village about thirteen miles away, and left there all night tied to a tree. With some trouble, however, he had managed to cut himself free with his orasscutter's knife which the Pathans had for- o gotten to remove, and so he had broken away from them. He further reported that there were nearly two hundred men In the village in question, besides numbers of cattle, sheep, &c. Upon this alarming story, a party of fifty rifles of the 3rd Beluchis, under Lieutenant Price, and twenty sowars of the i8th Bengal Lancers, under Lieutenant Chesney, went out at a quarter to six in 54 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE the early morning with a view to finding the spot where the grasscutter had been tied up and detained. After a considerable amount of scrambling over rocks and scrub, under conduct of the grasscutter, they at length succeeded in this, the whole country being very rough. The village, however, they found to be deserted, but, going up a gully, they came across eight Pathans skulking among the rocks. These at once fired upon them, whereupon the Beluchis as promptly returned the compliment, dropping one of the Pathans^ and driving the rest up the hill. Two were taken prisoners, nevertheless, and brought back to the camp in triumph along with some looted goats and sheep. I may as well at this point give the narratives of the two columns which left the main body at Shinakorah under the command of Colonel Nicolson and Captain Mason respectively. First, as to Colonel Nicolson's column. Leaving^ Shinakorah before 5.30 a.m. on the 5th of October, the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry leading, he directed his march in a north-easterly direction until Shua Kila, a deserted township, was reached, after which he pro- ceeded north-west up the river bed to Maidan Kach, the exploration of which was a main object of this, expedition. During the first part of the march going was easy, for the ground was smooth and hard, and water was obtainable close to Shua Kila, but during the latter part the road became bad, the ground getting more stony and no water to be had. The total distance HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 55 traversed was nearly thirteen miles. When the column arrived at Maidan Kach they found already encamped there Major Garwood with a section of Sappers and Miners, and Lieutenant Chesneywith a troop of the iSth Bengal Lancers, who had been sent on in advance to explore the district and ascertain the best route for the next march. Late in the evenino- it was announced to Captain Maclvor that in all probability there would be very little water at the next camping-ground. Accord- ingly it was decided that while the main part should march out as usual, the cavalry should be allowed to start after noon so that their horses might be watered twice in the forenoon. Also a complete roll-call of men and animals was taken that the water supply for the future might be calculated with accuracy. Near Shua Kila, where Sir Robert Sandeman's column entered the hills down which the Kazzba river flows to the open Zhob valley, there are two rather interesting ancient monuments. The first of these is a specimen of those Mogul forts (Buddhist they are said to be in origin) which abound all over the Beluch country. The other object of interest is also a fort, or rather the remains of one, for it was blown up in the course of the first Zhob valley expedition. The latter was called Bisharat Khoidadzai, but has nothing romantic in it. With regard to the other, however, a very nice little story is told. Once upon a time, so it is related, there dwelt there Miro Khan Mogul and an only daughter. The latter, like other fair maidens who have inhabited 56 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE lonely castles, had a suitor for her hand, and that no less a person than Sanjar, the chief of all the Kakars of Zhob and Bari. Old Miro Khan Mogul, however, disap- proved of the suit, and perhaps one day showed a little too much warmth in his treatment of the younger chief- tain, for the latter one fine night set fire to the Mogul's stronghold, captured his bride, and set her behind him on his horse. The faithful steed seems to have been a very wonderful animal, for, it is said, it made the safety of its master sure by taking straightway three immense bounds of about half-a-mile each, and true it is that, if the three cairns which mark the leaps of this most useful quadruped are correctly placed, Sanjar's steed did not believe in restricting himself to the ordinary paces usually followed by other members of his species. Next day, the 6th of October, this column marched twelve miles to Borick Shazuk, leaving the last camp at 5.30 A.M., and arriving by i i a.m. at its destination. On this occasion the direction was north-westerly, up a torrent bed, surrounded on either side with high crags for a considerable distance. Then, after a march of about five miles over low ranges and spurs, the column emerged upon a plain, and directed its course straight for a tooth-shaped mountain called Yagwash. The road was in many places narrow, and as it led very much up and down hill, it made marching rather difficult. Indeed, the column had to go the greater part of the way in single file. Water, however, was plentiful, being easily HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 57 collected by a little digging, and a spring of pure water was found by one of the havildars of the 3rd Beluchis, about a thousand yards from the camping-ground at Borick Shazuk. The cavalry accomplished the journey in less than three hours, arriving before 3 o'clock in the afternoon. There is a curious legend told of this place, Borick Shazuk ; perhaps the name comes from the tale. Tradi- tion has it that it was here that Saint Borick worked a famous miracle, in that he conveyed to the summit of the highest and most precipitous rock in the neighbour- hood a favourite steed and there kept him alive. Either his horse was very fond of eating flinty rocks, or some more pressing reason than mere wonderworking, such as floods on the lower grounds, must have induced the saint to stable his fourfooted friend in such a place, for a more isolated or bleak spot could hardly be fancied. On the 7th, a march of about twelve miles was made to Hawdak (elevation 7000 feet) over a bad road, the column again having to proceed most of the way in single file, and the transport straggling. Here the camp was in two divisions, the 3rd Beluchis being encamped with Sir R. Sandeman, and the remainder of the force taking up a position a mile to the south-west in a fertile valley. The water supply at this place was good, and sufficient for a small column, but the quantity of wood and grass obtainable was inadequate. The name Hawdak, by the way, implies a succession of small tanks 58 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE to catch the water that oozes out from beneath the low range of rocks of the place. Next day, the cavalry under Lieutenant Chesney left at 5 o'clock in the morning for Tahnishpa, light order. Half-an-hour later the remainder of the column started for China or Rod Jogizai, a distance of sixteen or seventeen miles, arriving there before i o'clock in the afternoon. On this march again going was difficult, and there was no water on the road ; but at China we found ample supplies generally (including water from pools in the Khaisor). China is a small Jogizai village of some ten detached hamlets. Towards evening of this day Lieutenant Chesney with his men came in and reported the desertion of his fort by Bungal Khan. The direct distance from Hawdak, whence they started, to Tahnishpa is nearly eighteen miles, and from this latter place to China seventeen miles, and they had, besides covering these distances, gone at times off the road to explore and make sketches. On the 9th of October (Thursday) Nicolson's column halted at China (elevation 6450 feet), and by midday, the headquarters column, under the general officer commanding, rejoined it there. Thence they set out together, as already stated, on the loth for Tahnishpa (elevation 7700 feet). Captain Mason's survey party, under escort of one native officer (Bahadur Khan) and twenty-six men of. the 3rd Beluchis, also left Sir G. White's column, as we have seen, on the 4th of October. This party carried HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 59 ninety rounds of ammunition per man, fifty of these being- padded on mules, and two days' grain ration, also on mules. They left Shina Korah — Khwara is said to be the more correct form of this name — at half-past eight in the morning, and made their first halt at Andrebiezh, distant twelve miles. The road thither at first followed the bed of the Shina Korah or Dhana, but three miles or so from Andrebiezh, a steep ascent had to be made up the Marghakai Kotal (8700 feet elevation). This latter part of the journey laden camels can only ac- complish with considerable difficulty, but only three of these were with this party, the remainder of the transport consisting of mules, which easily made the ascent. Andrebiezh itself has an elevation of 8400 feet, and is reached from the Marghakai Kotal by a gentle descent of two miles throuo^h a nullah or mountain sforsfe. It is a small village of some sixty houses, belonging to the Mardanzais, and is prettily situated amid this rocky ground. The inhabitants were very friendly, and readily brought in supplies, which, however, except firewood, were rather limited in quantity. The camping-ground was not very extensive, but the water-supply was plentiful. Next day. Captain Mason marched to Babu China, a distance of nine miles. The road thither chiefly descended, and in some parts was very bad, owing to the steep places that had to be passed. After about five miles going he came to Khaj Kach, another Mardanzai village, containing some forty houses. Then 6o THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE the country of the Mirzais was entered, and two miles farther on the village of Mogul China, belonging to the Fakirzai sub-section of these people, and consisting of seventy houses, was passed ; after which no place of importance is reached until the collection of villages, known as Babu China, in the open Rod Valley, here three or four miles broad, are attained. Owing to its wide extent, the valley makes an excellent camping- ground for even a very large force. Water, too, is plentiful, and there is also some wheat, makhai and barley. The Babu China villages are situated at an elevation of 7100 feet, and contain some 400 fighting men. On the 6th, a halt was made at Babu China, and an ascent was made of the Sakir peak (elevation 10,117 feet), which lies close on four miles to the north, and, though climbing was difficult. Lieutenant Mackenzie succeeded in surveying much of the hitherto unexplored country to that side. Then, on the following day (the 7th) the detachment proceeded a distance of fourteen miles, to camp at the head of Gargas Smalan or Suleiman. The track thither led first across the Rod nullah, then over an undulating plain, and then among nullahs and hillocks, after which, for the remaining four miles, there is a gradual ascent to the Lunda Kotal (elevation 8300 feet). This last the mules and camels made without much difficulty and without mishap. Our men's camping- ground (elevation 8 150 feet) was about a mile beyond the Kotal. There was no village or hamlet there, but HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 6i there were two pools of water, which, if not very good, was yet drinkable. Nearly half-a-mile to the north of the camp there was found to be a second Kotal, and here was what was believed to be the head of the Kundar river — at all e\'ents, it was the head of the southern branch of that stream. On the Sth of October a march of ten and a half miles was made to Marjan (elevation 7550 feet), the track leading along a nullah which drains Gargas Smalan the entire way. About halfway a tangi called Dirgal was come across. At Marjan itself, as at Gargas Smalan, there was neither village nor food supply, it being simply used as a temporary camping-ground by the nomadic tribes of the district. Good water, however, was procur- able from pools in the gorge and camel-grazing could be had in abundance. Sheep and goats and firewood also were all obtainable. It is at Marjan that the direct road from the Babu China villages, known as the Kash route, comes in, which, thougrh shorter than the Lunda route, is rather more difficult. The remaining course of Captain Mason's detachment was from Marjan to Hawdak, a distance of ten miles (October 9), from Hawdak to China, a distance of six- teen miles (October 10), and from China to Tahnishpa, a distance of eighteen miles (October 11). The first of these marches was an easy one. It lay through the Khaisor Valley and the territory of the Jalalzis. In the valley there were neither trees nor villages, only patches here and there of low scrub, and there was no water in 62 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE the Khaisor nullah. Even at Hawdak there was no trace of any hamlet and supplies consequently were not to be had. Water, too, was not over plentiful. As we have already seen, Colonel Nicolson's column arrived here on the 7th, having followed the Baraksia route from the Zhob, which comes in at this point, but it had left the following day. From Hawdak Captain Mason marched, on the loth, to China over the same route that Colonel Nicolson's men followed, and thence, on the i ith, to Tahnishpa, where he rejoined the main column, the escort returning to the headquarters of their regiment. Near China there was a considerable amount of cultiva- tion to be seen, and half a mile from it on the track to Tahnishpa is Sharan, a Jogizai village, consisting of from fifty to sixty houses. At this point the track leaves the Khaisor nullah and runs in a northerly direction across the valley to the mountains known as the Tor Ghar range, where is the Tahnishpa Pass. Here the road ascends, and after winding about the hills for ten miles, at length brings us to the lofty camping-ground at Tahnishpa. We now return to the troops left halted at Kuriawasta. Monday, the 13th of October, was again spent by the troops in fishing vigorously while they awaited further orders. The stream must really have been almost cleared of fish, for they proved very confiding, no one probably having ever fished here before, and easily succumbed to the bait presented to them (either "atta" or raw meat). We also met some natives from a not too friendly HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 63 village a few miles out and tried to talk to them, through the agency of one of Lieutenant Liddell's men (a sapper) as interpreter, but all the information we could elicit was that "the white folk had taken all their fish out of the river and now they were drinking up all the water." When going out of camp we have always to take an escort now, and Liddell and I tried some shooting but without getting any luck, although many partridges were heard calling in the early morning near the camp. There were also " chikor " about — a species of the French partridge class much bigger, however, than the birds which we have at home. They scampered like fun over the rocks, and had an aggravating way of keeping out of range. Apparently, however, the disturbance of the camp, &c., had made them shy. Tuesday, the 14th of October, was spent much in the same way as the previous day. Now, however, we found that Tommy Atkins had devised another method of fishing. He had started with a bent pin baited with some atta, or coarse native flour ; now his ingenious mind had evolved another device. He removed the pugri of his khaki helmet and opening it out netted the .shallows with it, one man holding one end of the pugri and another the other, both working it slowly along the stream. The fish in fact acquired such a reputation for confidence in man that they were even rumoured to be so "green" and so unaccustomed to our nasty human snares, that they would readily dart up to the surface if but a bright brass button were dangled at the end of a string before 64 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE them, in which case the fisherman could then scoop out the confiding victim with his helmet. I tell this tale as it was told to me. I make no comments. On this day it had been intended by the general officer commanding to move from Tahnishpa down the Kundar, and orders had actually been issued detailing two columns for this expedition. Subsequently, however, this plan was countermanded, and instead the troops at Kuriawasta received orders to march thence to Tahnishpa on the 15th. We left Kuriawasta, accordingly, at 5.40 a.m., the morning being very chilly and dark and the going rough as usual. One half of F Company of the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry was on advance guard. Tah- nishpa was reached about 1.15 p.m., a total distance of eighteen miles having been marched, and three halts having been made en route. The baggage got in to Tahnishpa before 4 o'clock, the track being very rough for our camels. The track led up and down hill and was a very wind- incr one indeed. When eisfht miles out we came across a kind of well, with which exception we found no water on the road, or rather, I should say, camel track, which in places branches off through rocky ravines. There was also a quantity of rough scrub, besides a few juniper trees. The last five miles or so of the journey was very confusing, reminding one of the approach to an Ali Baba cave. One could never tell for fifty yards at a time the nature of the country that he was approachin cr • HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 65 indeed, it would have been impossible without a guide to keep to the track. There was, too, a terrible air of desolation about, and the road lay through very narrow gorges and ravines where a surprise would be not at all a nice thing. At length, however, our advance guard got out upon a more open space, and we had before us the great lofty, sharp peak upon which is Bungal Khan's fortress, high above us and invisible, only the sharp point of the mountain indicatino- to us where it was. At the base of the mountain were some hamlets and huts, built of roueh stone or half burrowed out of the earth and roofed with thatch. We also found here some jezails and tulwars, showing that the inhabitants had apparently decamped in haste on our approach. On the hills round Tahnishpa there were also lots of carob trees and stunted junipers. Our camping-ground at Tahnishpa was a roomy one, sufficient for a brigade, and not at all uncomfortable. It was very picturesquely situated, on a level plateau surrounded by high hills. Water was soon obtained, too, from a spring, being collected by damming, the upper portion being reserved for the men and the 66 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE J^'^'-m lower portion for the animals ; and we had parties out under an officer as soon as possible cutting firewood on the mountain side. Tahnislipa itself belongs to the Shahizai Kakars, and is a very pretty village, situated at an elevation of 7850 feet. Grass was found there in fair quantity, but no bhussa or grain. Sheep- and goats also were obtainable to a limited extent. Before passing on, it should be stated that on this day (the 15th) a small party, consisting of sur- veyor Asgar AH and an escort of one native officer and twenty-five men of the 2nd Beluchis, started up the Khaisor Valley for Apozai. Their object, of course, was exploration. On the 1 6th of October (Thursday) the Headquarters column halted at Tahnishpa. A party of us got leave to go up the mountain to have a look at Bungal Khan's stronghold, that is to say, what was left of it. We had orders to carry our revolvers loaded, and to take with us an escort of men with their rifles. We also secured the services of two native guides, who, however, led off by taking us round the hill to the rear, where the track could be seen by which Bungal Khan and his followers were supposed to have made their hasty retreat. It seemed to wind about for miles and miles down into HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 6; the Kundar Valley, where it appeared to join the Kundar river or rather river bed — for there was not much sign of water — which can be seen for a long- distance. We got round finally, however, to the proper track, and then set steadily to work, going up until at last the stronghold on the top was reached. Climbing 1^" here was very hard, through rough scrub, juniper trees and deadwood and some thorn, with huge boulders and rocks thrown in ; but at every stage of our climlj we got splendid views of the surrounding country, and when we got to the top a magnificent view of the Kundar and country thence towards Tarwah and Trikh Gaz was obtained. One of our party had a kukri, or ghoorka knife, with him, which proved most useful in clearing away scrub at times and so enabling us to cret through the undergrowth. There was little siyn 68 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE of the fort itself, however ; only a tree trunk and some loose stones, &c., were visible. Major Garwood, R.E., and his men had done their work on the nth very effectually indeed and left litde behind them. But for the difficulty of getting water up here, Bungal Khan would doubtless have made a fight of it, for it is most difficult to approach and commands the country for miles around. From the topmost point the view cannot be adequately described. There is the little footpath going down below at a very dizzy slope, and there away to the north and north-west one can see ridge upon ridge of mountains, all seeming red-hot, until they melt into the blue of the distance and then into the fierce blue sky. The glare here and the heat were very unpleasant. But our rest on the summit was much enlivened by our escort of Tommies, who soon got astride the slabs of rock and made the most entertaininsT remarks. From this peak we had a good view of our next camp, Nigange, to the north-east of us, by the Kundar river bed. The heliograph, which we had brought up with us, too, was soon adjusted and set to work, our signallers "calling up" Sir Robert Sandeman's camp from this high elevation. After making some sketches we again started for the downward climb, meeting on the lower ridges some of our wood-cutting parties, facetiously dubbed by Thomas Atkins "the Gladstone gangs," who were at work bringing in wood for our bivouac fires. The sportsmen among us HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 69 who could raise guns of any sort had, we found, also been trying to get some chikor, which here were fairly plentiful. The nights at Tahnishpa, I should not forget to mention, were very cold, but the temperature during the daytime was pretty warm. In the early mornings we were very glad we had our posteen. A posteen is a yellow leather coat lined throughout with fur — as a rule the long brown wool or hair of the " dumba " or fat-tailed sheep. The collar and cuffs are of astrakhan, plain as a rule, also the edges of the coat. The leather of the coat is dyed with the juice of the inner skin of the pomegranate, and is embroidered all over with bright yellow silk ; leather in various patterns being cut out and sewn on with the same silk, so that the coat is a very handsome one as well as very useful, since it is about the only thing which keeps out the cutting winds of these northern mountains. During the six days" halt at Tahnishpa and Kuria- wasta many endeavours were made to come to an understanding with the Shahizai tribesmen of this district as well as with the Jalalzais and the Mardanzai Kakars of Khaisor. These were all rather loth to anything like guarantee the peace of their country or bind the inhabitants to be of good behaviour. Special efforts, however, were made to get them to promise to harbour no longer the murderers and robbers who had hitherto kept the place in a state of anarchy. In this respect we were more successful, and these tribes undertook to keep the outlaws out of their limits, 70 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE furnishincr hostages from amonsf the maUks or headsmen o o o for the fulfilment of their pledges. I would here remark with regard to the tribal system which prevails all over the district with which we are at present concerned, that it is just this feature which dis- tinguishes the constitution of society in Beluchistan from that in Afghanistan. The Afghan community is a much more developed, civilised if you like, type, being a larger, more numerous, and more democratic or self-governing body than its Beluch counterpart. In Beluchistan the headman is still all powerful over the members of his tribe, and, on the other hand, responsible to outsiders for the acts of those under him ; the whole body being in consequence a compact unit, easily dealt with and easily controlled if only the headman can be influenced. The British Government have now long recognised this and have preferred to keep up the tribal independency, exerting their authority through the headmen. Thus the Khan of Khelat, for instance, is our loyal vassal, while at the same time supreme in his own sphere. In Afghanistan things are quite different, tribal indepen- dency having long ago disappeared, and the central government having the direct control over all individuals. These differences also explain perhaps to some extent why the Afghan seems to prefer to attack his foe singly and by stealth, while the Beluch tribesmen invariably go about in bands. During our halt in this place a quaint and amus- ing incident happened. It was the custom when any HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 71 ■of the hired transport camels died on the march, or had to be shot, for the owner to produce the dead "oont's" tail to prove the fact, and thus claim the ■estimated value of the defunct beast. One evening- a tailless camel came into our lines, and caused some astonishment as he strolled to the commissariat lines where his old friends were solemnly feeding in search for his " bhussa." All was quiet except the occasional grumbling of a camel, and the pat-pat of the natives beating out their " chappatis " over their camp fires. Imagine the " oont wallah's" (camel owner) surprise and disgust on seeing this apparition. It then came out that the latter had sold the beast to a Pathan, and cut off his tail, and also got the value of the beast. All this was very neatly expressed by my tent companion in the lines below : '^ Before you hear this story, it is right that you should know What the custom on a march is when a camel goes "be- low," Or rather, I should say, when it occurs to him that he Has had enough of bearing loads, and to drop upon his knee, And lay his head upon a rock, and say " Good-bye " to life Is easier, for the owner then whips out an ugly knife — Nearly every native of these parts conceals one up his sleeve— And proceeds to sever the spinal cord. The carcass he'll relieve 72 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE Of its appendage caudal — final ornament, if you will — To bandy vain expressions ain't the object of my quill. The load is then distributed ; the camel is left to rot ; The camel owner ("oont wallah"), who doesn't care a jot. Will find the commissariat tent, and there produce his tail. And claim his compensation, when fail he never will To carry away of bright rupees enough to start a mill. We were on an expedition, and our chief proclaimed a halt, And all the camp was busy by the water, which was salt, When two sinister-minded oont wallahs cautiously slipped out Of camp at early dawn, to do the deed you'll hear about, And, accosting a Pathan, they said, " My friend, you here may see A camel, which we fain would sell for the sum of one rupee. We have too many over there, and hence the modest price." The Pathan he winked most solemnly, and simply said " How nice ! I want just such a camel ; do you think that he'll object To myself, my wife and children, if we're loaded up correct. Or to carry us to Ivandahar, for thither we are bound ? " The wicked pair replied ; " Oh, no ! We're sure you'll find him sound ; But there's one thing we must keep — his tail ; we hope you will not mind." " Oh, take it," the Pathan replied ; "it will lighten him behind ! " The flash of a tulwar in the sun ; the deed — the horrid deed — is done. The price was paid up readily in two eight-anna bits. The scoundrels then went back to camp, while the Pathan went into fits Of laughter at the bargain, and the camel straightway tied By the rope attached to a peg in his nose to a juniper tree beside, Hieing himself off in great delight to announce to his joyful spouse. That he'd got a camel to carry them, and that to-morrow they'd move house. Then rolled they up their blankets, spanked their kids all round the place. Papa going back to the juniper tree, soon to return with a lengthy face, HINDU BAGH TO TAHNISHPA 73 For he found at the tree a bit of old rope, with the nose-peg on the ground ; Too carelessly put in the camel's nose (a thing that I've often found). Meanwhile to camp the rogues had gone, and they'd claimed the usual sum, Making eight annas by the bargain each, that is simple rule of thumb. But, lo ! and behold, at evening time, when the hills were bathed in red, Strolled a visitor unexpected into camp with gentle tread — A tailless camel, looking for food, and glad to see his friends, As, passing the commissariat tents, his way to the bhussa he wends. Then out in the open, tied to a post, two cowering wretches, bared to the waist. Soon felt the lash from a sturdy hand, only too able and willing to baste. R. C. B. TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI The next march forms the second phase of the Zhob Valley expedition. In this case, also, the force was divided up into distinct columns, each moving sepa- rately under its own command. It had been reported that considerable difficulty was likely to be experi- enced in the matter of supplies, and that camel transport would alone have to be relied upon for the forage of the horses and mules. Nothing, accord- ingly, except what was absolutely necessary, was carried. General White issuing orders that all details not actually required were to be sent back to Apozai. Also the Field Force was redistributed as follows : Headquarters column, No. 7 Mountain Battery, Royal Artillery (2 guns). King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry (400 rifles), i8th Bengal Lancers (i troop). No. I Company, Bombay Sappers and Miners (25 rifles), and the 2nd Beluchis (400 rifles). Colonel Nicolson's column, i8th Bengal Lancers (i troop). No. I Company, Bombay Sappers and 78 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE Miners (50 rifles), the 3rd Beluchis (400 rifles), and one section Native Field Hospital. The remainder of the troops, under Lieutenant-Colonel Morgan, R.A., were ordered to proceed with all spare stores down the Toi, and thence by way of the Zhob Valley to Apozai, there to await further orders. The equipment of the two columns was ordered to be made as light as possible. The infantry carried in pouch 40 rounds of ammunition, and on mules 50 rounds more. For camp equipage, one general service tent, inner fly only, was allotted to every twelve men of the British troops, the native troops not being supplied with tents ; and the orders with regard to kits were that, in the case of the British troops, 30 lbs. per man was to be the limit, while the native troops and followers were to be allowed 20 lbs. per man. The Headquarters column also carried three days' sup- plies and seven days' forage, and Colonel Nicolson's. column, nine days' supplies and seven days' forage. The general routes to be followed were, for the Head- quarters column, to move by way of Nigange (Nigungi) down the Kundar to Gustai, where it was to meet the other column, and for Colonel Nicolson's column to march to Gustai by the Nigange and Chukan road. From Gustai they were to march together to Hussein Ziarat. At the latter place two columns were again to be formed for the march to Apozai. Colonel Nicolson's column started out from Tah- nispha about 5.30 on the morning of the i6th of Octo- TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI 81 ber, marching on that day to Nigange on the Kundar, a distance of seventeen miles. Sir Robert Sandeman, PoHtical Agent of the Governor-General of India, accompanied this division, and Lieutenant Southey was attached as Intelligence Officer. The route taken was by the Shin Narai Kotal (elevation, 7450 feet). Nothing of note occurred, but the baggage found considerable difficulty in descending the Kotal six miles from Tahnishpa. No water was met with until about a mile from the destination of the column for that day when a well was found. On the Kundar itself, at Nigange, water was plentiful, though brackish, and having an effect like Epsom salts. The camping- ground, however, was good and extensive, on the right bank of the river. Next day this column marched from Nigange to Dola Sar, nearly ten and a half miles distant. This part of the road was good, and water was met with about two miles from Dola. There were three or four somewhat difficult places en route, and these the troops took the opportunity of improving. The camp- ing-ground chosen was an extensive one near the Tora Mu stream, and here good water was got. At this point, too, the heliograph was set to work, and communication opened with the spare supplies column then at Nigange Kundar. On the 1 8th, Colonel Nicolson marched to Sanghi War, eighteen or nineteen miles from Dola Sar. Water was met with occasionally, and the road was p «2 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE fairly good, being again improved along the route by the troops. At Sanghi War there was but little water, and that brackish. Here it was not found possible to keep up the heliographic communication. On the 19th of October, the march was from Sanghi to Ambarra over a good road, and across the river Chukan, in the valley of which xAmbarra is situated. The water supply here was good, but the camping- ground more limited ; sui^ciently extensive, however. to camp a brigade tightly packed, and here and there divided. On the 20th, a six miles march was undertaken to Sharan, the Chukan valley caravan road being left, and the column ascending the Sharan nullah, the road up which is very rough and stony. Some deserted caves were passed eii route. At Sharan the camping-ground was again small, but the water supply was fairly good. In the morning Lieutenant Southey, with a detachment of one havildar and twelve Sepoys of the 3rd Beluchis, was despatched with two days' rations to explore Uzhda Wazhda about four miles off, the road thither leaving the main route on the right about a quarter of a mile from Ambarra. His orders were to rejoin the column at Gustoi War. From Sharan a second detachment was sent out, consisting of the Sappers and Miners and a company of the 3rd Beluchi bat- talion, with orders to proceed to the Sharan Kotal, about six miles off, and work on the road there ; and this same afternoon it was announced that their »J- Q _l o I o z o en h- (/) w z < I < z D CD o Q. < Ld I h Z o TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI 83 operations would be completed by 9 o'clock next morning. This detachment encamped at the Kotal, , but as no water was to be found there, their mules, with the exception of three pakal mules, were sent back to the Sharan camp. Water for the men, however, was fetched from a spot half-way between Sharan and the Kotal, about a quarter of a mile off the road to the left going up. In consequence of the announcement that the road would be ready in the morning, Colonel Nicolson left Sharan next day (the 21st of October) and marched to Gustoi W^ar, a distance of seventeen miles. From Sharan to the nullah the road was upwards for about si.x miles, rough in many places, but fairly passable by camels. Near the Kotal, however, the nullah gets very narrow, and here laden camels passed only with difficulty. Beyond the Kotal the descent was easier, that having been worked on by the party of Sappers and Miners sent on in advance. But for their opera- tions it would have been impassable for laden animals of any sort. At first the descent was very steep for three-quarters of a mile ; then came the road made by our troops for a distance of one and a half miles or so, and after that there was an easier bit, when again it became very rough, narrow, and difficult, there being a second rather steep descent. About six miles from Gustoi two very narrow tangis were passed, so narrow as to be almost like doorways, shortly after which water was found in the stream 84 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE in limited quantities, and brackish. Tlie road cut by our Sappers was through shale. During- the last five miles of this march some fruit trees were seen and some deserted huts, as well as the remains of a Mandu Khel village. Three miles from the camping-ground the Gustoi valley was entered, and here a much more plentiful supply of water was found in the stream. This part of the route followed the nullah a short distance, and then turned up to the left over a plateau, finally descending again towards the stream and the place of encampment, these ascents and descents being very steep. To show how bad and difficult the road was tor tran.sport, it may be mentioned that though the camels started from Sharan at eight o'clock in the morning, it was midnight before the last reached the camp at Gustoi War. Besides the chilgoza and larger specimens of plant life which abound in this district we noticed a o-ood deal of wild rhubarb and asafcetida. Both of these plants are collected by the natives and used for culinary purposes. The former, when cooked, makes a very excellent dish, and has even a delicious flavour ; but the natives as frequently eat it raw, in which state they say it is splendid for assuaging thirst, which may quite well be the case. The asafcetida is chiefly perhaps used as a cure for various bodily ailments, and much of what is gathered is sold for export. The latter our men did not make much trial of, but the former they seemed to thoroughly appreciate. TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI 85 To return to the movements of the Headquarters ■column, which we left halted at Tahnishpa on October 16 — that is to say, the day our party visited Bungal Khan's late stronghold. The more important events ■ot that day were the coming in of twelve of Bungal's followers, and the despatch of spare commissariat stores with about two hundred camels, under convoy of one native officer and twenty lances of the i8th Bengal Lancers, and one native officer and twenty ritles of the 3rd Beluchis to Kuriawasta. From Tahnishpa com- munication was kept up both with the latter place and also with Colonel Nicolson's column at Nigange. On this day, too, Captain I. Maclvor joined the Head- quarters column as Political Officer. At last, on Friday, the 1 7th, a start was made. Tahnishpa we left about 5.45 a.m., the early morn- ing being very chilly, and Nigange was reached .about r.30 in the afternoon. At first we marched down steadily into the Kundar Valley, then followed a very dusty but well defined track to the river. Here we pitched our camp (elevation, 6000 feet), and from the height at which we were could easily look back at the peak we had left that morning, though seventeen miles away. Our water supply was clear, but somewhat salt. We had abundance of wood and scrub for fires. As a whole, however, the place was far from being a cheerful looking one. I took the earliest available opportunity of making .a sketch here of the very theatrical-looking mountains, 86 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE blood-red in the sunset, and with deep purple shadows growing all over them. As I was thus engaged, a native of the i8th Bengal Lancers came up and watched me, and as the picture grew, so hugely inter- ested did he become that finally he was completely overcome, and suddenly implored to be allowed to show the sahib that he, too, could sketch. On my invitation, he straightway proceeded to draw a most wonderful " Bingarl tiger," which I only wish I could reproduce here ; but, alas, it became the property of my companion. On this day a malik, or tribal headsman, came in to Captain Maclvor and reported that he had lost five hundred sheep at the hands of Bungul Khan. He also disclosed the cache where he had his property concealed. This morning, too, the remainder of the troops and surplus stores were marched, under Captain Sievwright, from Tahnishpa to Kuriawasta. As we part with Bungal Khan at this point it may be as well to recount here his subsequent history. A year after these events occurred, that is to say, in 1892, he voluntarily came into Hindu Bagh, and there surrendered himself unconditionally to our then political agent at Zhob, Captain MacMahon. He was found to be a small, and, at first sight, an insignificant looking man ; a nearer inspection, however, discovered a wiry frame,, keen features, and a penetrating glance showing decided force of character. From that time he became a loyal servant of the British Government, and he was allowed to make a trip through India, visiting Calcutta, Bombay h- GC o Z < I is: < o z D CO z < tr A '?^' ^, to TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI and other principal towns, under the care of Khan Bahadur Hak Nawaz Khan, E.A.C. of Zhob. On the iSth " Rouse" was sounded at 4.30 a.m. and a start made at 6.10 a.m. for Kala Mulla Kumal, our next halting place, distant about thirteen or fourteen miles. Two halts were made en route, from 7 a.m. to 7.10 a.m. and from 9.10 a.m. to 9.45 a.ji., Kumal itself being reached at 11.15 ^^•^'- ^^ crossed the river Kundar, at the camping-ground of Nigange, and proceeded thence over small hills, sandy in places, only strik- mo- th e river aoam at our new encampment at Kala Mulla Kumal, though we were pretty near it at our long halt. Our march had been to the north of the river, the river being on our right. Our camping-ground at Kumal was a very sandy place, overgrown with scrub and grass. The water was still brackish but clear, and here aoain we were enabled to indulge in fishing in the part of the river which lay below Mac Ivor's camp to the east of ours. There is a small village, bearing the name of Kala Mulla Kumal, about two miles to the south-west of where our camp was pitched. The hills behind our tents here look like the cardboard representa- tion in a toy theatre, standing out sharp, and silhouetted in the setting sun. Next day, Oct. 19, " Rouse " was sounded at 4.45 a.m. 90 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE and a start made before 5.50 a.m. On this occasion, we followed a sandy heavy route, with frequent fording, though a better one for our transport than they had lately had. Nikhal, or Spole Loara, was the destination, distant nearly sixteen miles, and this was reached at I r.M. We halted three times, at 6.45 a.m., 8. 10 a.m., and 10.55 A.ii., respectively. On leaving MuUa Kumal -^x^-L^P('i/40'&..: we kept down the bed of the Kundar, crossing that river repeatedly and every now and again going over little sand hills. It was a misty day, and one which seemed to sua-orest a sandstorm brewinof in the neig-hbourhood somewhere, which event fell upon us in the evening. At the last halt we came across a herd of donkeys and some goats, as well as about a dozen natives, a right ruffianly looking lot indeed. At our camp we were again visited by a similar lot belonging to the nomadic Safis, who sought to sell us sheep and goats, the former being the fat-tailed kind (or diunbd). At about ten miles we passed the junction of the Wali Murgha river and TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI 91 the Kunclar. At Nikhal itself the Kandil joins the Kundar. In the Kandil we found abundance of good running water though somewhat muddy, whereas, in the Kundar, there was little or none. Our camp was situated on the left bank of the Kandil. Spole Loara means "white plain." Here is the junction of the routes from Ghaznee v/d the Kandil Valley, and from Kandahar z'id the Kundar Valley. There was grass on the plain, and good camel grazing, but no sup- -fry;^fS_ ■ W^fii . \ ^', plies were forthcoming. At (4 '':^'' ■• - ^^'^^ stage it was reported X^-- ""^•"~-: that not a man of the \L. ^<':S^-^-^ - -'■ Mountain Battery, or of -^"^-^ X ■^'^*^*^"" -'^^ ;:>y' ^55^ - the King's Own Yorkshire -.-y^^^K- -<^ Light Infantry was in hos- pital, and only one of the 2nd Beluchis, with two followers. On the 20th (Monday), "Rouse" was again sounded at 4.45 A.M. On this day our destination was Sira Dirgha. This place we reached about a quarrer to eleven o'clock, having left Nikhal at six, and made three halts, from 6.50 A.M. to 7 A.M., 8.15 A.M., to 8. 2 5 A.M., and from 9 A.M. to 9.45 A.M. The total distance marched was about twelve miles. Our route was across the Spole Loara, along the riverside, amongst the mountains, by a narrow- stony tangi for two or three miles, until the Kundar 92 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE Valley was rejoined, after which we descended past Nama Kanai ("navel stone"), a burial-place, to Sira Dirgha. For the greater part of the way, our space was very restricted, though occasionally it opened out into broader places with signs of torrents in the shape of driftwood lying about in the broader reaches, of which driftwood we collected a lot for our camp fires, loading it on the baggage camels. Otherwise, wood is very scarce in this district, and hard to get, and this driftwood must undoubtedly have been carried along from some heights a long way off. What water there was in the river was very muddy and " Epsomy ; " and the going was very rocky and rough and bad for camels. We had just got fairly into camp at Sira Dirgha, and made everything snug, when, about 3.30 p.m., a sand- storm came up from the north-east, with a cold wind, sweeping the entire valley, and making everything soon a mist of floating sand, which got into one's eyes and ears. A good many tents went down under its force, all the gear rattling and banging like the beating of many drums, and the occupants holding on grimly to the tent- poles, swearing roundly. It was a big flat, stony and sandy camping-ground this at Sira Dirgha, and just the sort ot place for such a storm to revel in. From this place our column set out next day (Octo- ber 21), about 5.45 A.M., for Sarmago Kach, a march of nearly twelve miles, getting in before 11.20 a.m. Two halts were made en roide, from 7 a.m. to 7.10 a.m., and from 9 A.M. to 9.45 A.^i. Although over a short distance, TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI 93 this was a nasty march, the going being very bad. The original order had been for a march all the way to Gustoi War, but as wood and grass had been collected at Sarmag'O Kach, the a^eneral officer commanding had the camp pitched there. The distance thence to Gustoi was only one or two miles, the latter place being further down the stream. On our march we passed some Beluch graveyards. As we were nearing camp our rear guard was fired into, apparently from a great distance, and a camp follower was hit on the shoulder. A halt was ordered at Sarmago Kach during the 22nd ; and meanwhile Captain Maclvor went on with levies to Gustoi War, the general officer commanding following soon after. Sir Robert Sandeman also reached Gustoi War about three in the afternoon of the 2ist; but Colonel Nicolson's rear guard did not get in until late in the evening, owing to the troublesome cross- ing of the Narai Kotal. Next day, General White and staff, with an escort of levies, under Captains Maclvor and O' Mealy, went up the river Gustoi to the Sanzali villao-e, and thence to Kamwalloo, or Kamwala, a lofty point of the Speraghar mountains (elevation, 7200 feet). The ascent was a steep one, but they got a magnificent view over the Gardao plain and to Kaisarghar, and the Takht-i-Suleiman range in the far distance. Both at Sarmago Kach and at Gustoi War wood and grass could be got in considerable quantities, but little else, except some bhussa from Sanzali. At Sarmago Kach there was room to encamp a brigade, and at Gustoi War 94 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE a small force could easily be put up. We were still on the Kundar river, the water of which stream continued to be rather brackish, though that of the Gustoi was clear and sweet. The two columns (Headquarters column and Colonel Nicolson's column) having now practically effected a junction, marched out on October 23 (Thursday) down the Kundar to Hus- sein Ziarat, or, more fully, Hussein Nika Ziarat, a distance of twelve miles or thereabouts. Colonel Nicolson's men left Gustoi War, where they had been encamped, at 5.45 a.m., and had two miles less to traverse than those of the . > Headquarters column, who, hcnvever, did not start until 6.50 A.M., reaching Ziarat at I r. I 5 A.M., with two halts from 7.35 A.ii. to 7.45 A.M., and from 9.45 a.m. to 10.20 A.M. As it turned out, the Headquarters column arrived at the Gustoi camping-ground at 7.35 a.m., when we saw some of Sir Robert Sandeman's bacfo-aofe camels still in the act of movincr off. As we descended to Hussein Ziarat it got much warmer, and we found on arrival an excellent water supply and a capital camping-ground. TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI 97 On getting into camp we heard that some of our grass- cutters, under a lance naik of the i8th Bengal Lancers, had been attacked by the natives just shortly before and that one had been killed and another severely wounded. These two unfortunates were broug-ht in on doolies about four o'clock. The ruffians, as can be imagined, soon made themselves scarce, and Lieutenant Chesney and a party of the iSth Bengal Lancers and some of the 3rd Beluchis, who had gone out after them, returned to camp without having succeeded in capturing them. They found, however, the tracks of three men. This outrage had been perpetrated within two or three hundred yards of the guard. Hussein Ziarat (Hussein's shrine) is a place of con- siderable interest, for here is the shrine {ziara£) of Hussein, an illustrious saint, beneath an unpretentious roof of common thatch, through which are stuck a couple of long poles upon which dangle several roughly made bells which tinkle dismally when swayed by the breeze of the place. Within the enclosure, the walls of which are about six feet high, repose the bones of the saint and six others, said to have been relatives. In front are two pillars of loose flat stones, forming a sort of gateway, and through these a pathway leads to the entrance of the shrine itself The saint's grave is only a low pile of earth and stones, and therefore somewhat disappointing to the visitor, who doubtless expects a nobler structure. It is nearly nineteen feet long by two broad, and at the head is the skull of a mountain goat, G 98 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE or markhor, with its spiral horns attached, about it being- fastened curious little bits of bone, glass and rags, placed there by worshippers or pilgrims in token of respect. The foot of the grave is also ornamented with a very curious perpendicular stone, upon which is cunningly balanced another rounded one, in the healing powers of which the greatest reliance is placed by the sick folks of this country. When we visited the place, two very grimy fakirs were posted at the entrance by the pillars, apparently to guard it, but doubtless they shrewdly looked after the pice thrown into the big, rusty, iron cauldron at the gate by the natives who came here to pray and view the great Hussein's tomb. By the way, a most touching tale is told of the worthy saint's dog, whose bones lie in a grave in close proximity to its master's. It seems this brute was endowed with a sagacity and power of calculation far beyond the average. It was his habit to sit by the road- side and keep a look-out for strangers, upon whose approach he would warn his master by a system of barking, the number of barks he gave indicating the number of the approaching visitors. One day, three men are said to have come alono-. The dog^ warned his master as usual, but this time he only gave two barks, whereupon it is said that Hussein, in a moment of anger at the dog's stupidity, killed it on the spot. The dog, however, as it proved, had been wiser than his master, one of the strangers being- a Hindu and therefore no o o pilgrim to him or his shrine. And, full of remorse for his TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI lor rash act, Hussein, on his death-bed, gave implicit direc- tions that he himself was to be buried close by the spot where lay his faithful hound. From Hussein Ziarat the force set out, on October 24, for Apozai, again in two columns following separate routes, each earring four days' rations. Sir George White had only a lightly equipped column with him, consisting of 20 lances of the iSth Bengal Lancers, 330 rifles of the 2nd Beluchis and 20 rifles of the 3rd Beluchis, his route being by way of Domandi and the Gomal, whereas Colonel Nicolson with Sir Robert Sandeman and the remainder of the force followed the direct route to Apozai. We will first follow the movements of Sir George White's column. Leaving Hussein Ziarat at 5.45 a.m. on October 24, he marched on that day to Kundar Domandi, where the Gomal joins the Kundar, a distance of eight and a half miles. Soon after starting, the guide led him through and over a very steep and bad pass for about a mile, and this part of the road the baggage column took two hours to pass. After that, the going was more easy ; first over an open plain and then down the beds of the Inzar nullah between very steep banks, until the Kundar was aoain struck, from which point the direction was straight to Domandi down the Kundar Valley. On arriving there plenty of good water was found in the Gomal. Goats and sheep, too, were procurable in large numbers, and grass, camel-grazing and wood, also was obtained. The camping-ground 102 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE itself was of considerable extent, indeed might be said to be unlimited in the bed of the rivers. About seven o'clock that evening a startling incident occurred, an escort of Zhob levies with camels under Captain O'Mealy being fired at in the Inzara tangi. No one was hit, however, and they drove off their assailants and brought the convoy safely into camp. On October 28, General White continued his march down the Gomal to Kurma, distant ten miles, passing Maricho Kach at two miles, Gul Kach at five miles and Kanzur at seven miles. It was a very trying march, over sand and stones, and in the course of it the river was constantly crossed and re-crossed. At Kurma the camp was pitched on the right bank of the Gomal at its junction by the Kurma nullah from the south. There was plenty of room here and an unlimited supply of good water, as well as grass and wood, and some few sheep and goats. On this day's march the column was accom- panied by Major Scott, R.E., who was in charge of the Zhob railway survey, and who had come in the previous day at Domandi, after an all-night march. Major Scott remained with the column until Apozai was reached. At Kurma the opportunity was taken of selecting a site for a post, in case one might be rendered necessary for the protection of railway surveying parties. On the 26th a start was made at 5.45 a.m. up the Kurma nullah, which here was dry with lots of coarse Q-rasses, to Gurdini, distant eighteen miles. About half- way, they reached the watershed between the Gomal TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI 105 and Siritoi, after which the Gurdas plaui was crossed, level and covered with dhiib "rass, the road then, at fifteen miles, descending the bed of the Gurdini nullah to its junction with the Siritoi where the camp was situated, and where Colonel Nicolson had halted on the previous day. This camping-ground also was very extensive and with a good and plentiful water supply, but no supplies were obtainable except grass in abun- dance and a sufficient amount of camel orfaze. The o column picked up here four days' rations left behind by Colonel Nicolson under escort of one native officer and forty men of the 2nd Beluchis. Also on this day Lieutenant Vesey of the 2nd Sikh Infantry, stationed at Mir Ali Khel, which is only three or four miles from Gurdini, rode over thither to visit the {jeneral officer commanding. On the 27th the march was to Sapai, a distance of ten miles. First, the Siritoi was descended for about a mile and a half, the Zhob beincr then reached, two miles down which is the Mir Ali Khel post, to which General White then directed his march. Here he inspected the garrison, consisting of one troop of the 3rd Punjab Cavalry, and two companies of the 2nd Sikh Infantry under Lieutenant Vesey. One of the men had died of pneumonia two days before. The post, or defensible barracks, were not yet finished, but they were expected to be ready soon after November 15. They were about two hundred yards to the south of the present post. The inspection of this post having been completed, io6 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE General White then returned to the junction of the Siritoi with the Zhob, and went on up the Zhob to Sapai. Here there was camping-ground ample enough for a division, with an unlimited supply of water from the Zhob, the current of which at this point was swift. The only supplies to be got were grass, wood, and camel graze. Next day General White left Sapai at 5.45 a.m., and marched to Brunj, a distance of fifteen miles, the route being by a road made the previous winter, on the right bank of and above the Zhob, now re-made into a good twelve feet camel road. Khatol Kot, a village of ten or twenty houses, was passed on this march. Brunj itself is a bigger place, having as many as fifty houses, and here was found a rest-house nearly finished. The camping-ground was an extensive one, sufficient for a division or two brigades, and there was plenty of good water, sheep, cattle, and rice, besides grass and camel graze. On the following day, the 29th, the remaining distance of fourteen miles or thereabouts to Apozai was covered. The column under Lieutenant-Colonel Morgan had arrived several days earlier from Kuriawasta with the spare stores, &c., and surveyor Asgar Ali had also arrived, after having obtained satisfactory results, so that now the whole Zhob Field Force was concentrated here. Colonel Nicolson, of course, had arrived the previous day. But to return to Colonel Nicolson's column, which also TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI 107 left Hussein Ziarat on October 24. Our first clay's march was a short one of four miles to Inzha Inkar. The regiments moved out at 7 o'clock in the morning, and the baggage got clear of the camping-ground at S. 15 a.m. I was on rear guard that day with F Company of the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry. As soon as the baggage got clear, a lot of natives began to pour into GURDINI CAMP the place and collect about the graves under the hills. They seemed to be part of some kafila or caravan from India. Inzha has an elevation of 4300 feet, and the camp there was on uneven and stony ground, sufficient, however, for a very large force, say, two brigades. The water supply was from a spring about a mile and a quarter from camp, up the Inzha nullah over a bad rocky road. The first men who went down to fetch it in pakals were fired upon, but no one was hit. Six shots were fired in all, and the guard of the 3rd Beluchis fired two volleys of forty-two rounds in reply. Next day's march was from Inzha Inkar to Gurdini, or Gardani (elevation 3775 feet), distant twenty miles. The troops started at 5 a.m., and arrived at i p.m., four io8 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE halts being made en route, from 6.5 a.m. to 6.15 a.m., 7.25 A.M. to 7.35 A.M., 9 A.M. to 9.45 A.M., and II.30 A.M. to 11.40A.AI. On this march I was on advance guard with F Company of the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry. The early part of the journey was through small hills, then we got into big valleys, the width varying, but always over three-quarters of a mile : long, flat reaches, grown over with dried grass. To all appearance there had been a lot of water here at times, for the ground was cracked like the dried-up bed of a river. Probably in the rainy season in July this would be quite a swamp. Our going, however, was very good. At Gurdini there was an unlimited camping-ground, extending on both banks of the Siritoi and Gurdini rivers, which form a junction here ; and the water supply was plentiful and good. Wood, tamarisk especially, and grain also were to be had in abundance, but no other supplies, except some sheep and goats. We had three pickets on the hills : two Beluchi and one King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry. Our water picket had been fired on at Inzha. The next stage (Sunday, October 26) was from Gurdini to Sapai, or Safi (elevation 3950 feet), a distance of nearly ten miles. The column started about 5 a.m., and came upon the Zhob river at 8 a.m. We halted from 8.15 A.M. to 8.25 A.M., and from 9 a.i\i. to 9.30 a.m. We had to ford the river constantly, the water at the fords being knee-deep, and very cold. Sapai is itself on the Zhob, and our camp there was on the right bank. TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI III with an unlimited supply of good water. When all our camp arrangements were in full swing, we strolled down to the river, and a very pretty picture the whole scene presented — high cliffs and the river flowing quietly below, a lancer watering two horses, and in the backo-round the hills blood-red in the setting- sun, the more distant ones (■^ "S'fti;, ^-^^^ ■^i^-~^~- Viit*^^ ^, ^v-^rtiisj: SAPAI — THE HILLS SOUTH OF OUR CAMP — SERVANTS' " KHAXA ' like a huge bed of pink coral, giving lovely colouring in the wanintr sunlicfht. A native servant from the Political Camp managed to cross the river, and we watched him fishing; there on the opposite bank — patient as all natives are and silently watching his float. Soon he hooked a fine mahseer, and smiling sleek content packed up and went off to his camp ; and we, likewise bent on khana (dinner), followed his example. Here a Public Works Department bun- o-alow was in course of erection. On the 27th, the column marched from Sapai to 112 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE Brunj (elevation 4200 feet), also on the Zhob river, a distance of eleven miles. We followed the river route. There is another but longer route, perhaps the more preferable one, as the frequent crossing of the river is bad for boots and clothes. This morning punishment by hanging was meted out to a Ghazi at Apozai. It appears that, having said his prayers, he got ready to murder the first man of any importance that passed, who in this case chanced to be Lieutenant Godfrey, the Assistant Political Agent, on his way to Europe on sick leave under cavalry escort. The fanatic fired at two sowars successively, each time missing, and then, when the kahars who were carrying the doolie in which lay the officer dropped it and bolted, he first shot at and then dashed with his sword at Godfrey, but was fortunately shot in the hip and disabled in time. When captured, he said he had been oppressed by the malik of his village, and he looked very ill and broken down. Before the drop fell, he shouted to the Pathan onlookers to pray for him. I may mention, also, that the native who shot the coolie within five hundred yards of the Bengal Cavalry lines on the 9th was also a Ghazi. He, too, was duly captured, and hanged almost on the spot of the murder, a little before 9 o'clock on October 21, in presence of three or four hundred people. In both cases the bodies were burned. The final stage, Brunj to Apozai (elevation 4500 feet), was done next day, a start being made between five and TAHNISHPA TO APOZAI 115 six in the morning, and Apozai being reached at 10.15 A.M. Our column followed on this march the new frontier road, and kept it the whole way, going being good for all arms as well as for the transport animals. We saw plenty of cultivation on the river banks, fields ot rice being specially abundant ; but we left the river about 9 A.M. At Apozai our encampment was near the new cantonment, known as Fort Sandeman, the latter place being only a mile and a half to the north-east of the village. The water at our camping-ground was from a small stream close at hand, but was very dirty. The river itself was about five miles distant. On the 29th and 30th the whole Zhob Field Force, now reunited, halted at Apozai in order that negotiations might be carried on with the Sherani tribesmen of the neighbourhood. I seized the opportunity of the rest to make a series of sketches, including one of Fort Sandeman taken from the east, showing the hill at the top of which a house was being built for Captain Maclvor. There are two other hills behind this, each having its top levelled for a building. To the south of these are the bazaar (everything therein being at famine prices), the Native Infantry mess-house, and the men's lines. On the morning of the 30th we had a review before Sir Robert Sandeman of all the troops of the Force and the local garrison, at which many of the maliks of the district were present. In all, 43 British officers and 2656 men of other ranks took part in this parade. After the ii6 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE march past, on the afternoon of the same day a durbar was held, when Sir Robert Sandeman distributed rewards to Sardar Shing-ul Khan and the other Zhob chiefs who had most heartily co-operated in our arrangements. As a matter of fact, all the way from Tahnishpa we found the natives, speaking generally, very friendly. Many helped us materially in the matter of the collection of supplies, &c., some driving quite a brisk trade in such animals as sheep and goats. They also very readily furnished us with the necessary guides. Only once or twice was any decided display of hostility made to us. With the review of troops, and subsequent durbar at Apozai, it may be said that this second phase of the operations of the Zhob Field Force ended. -^^ APOZAI TO NAMURKALAN AND MOGUL KOT We now reach the third phase of the operations of the Zhob Field Force, namely, those which had in view the subjection and pacification of the Sheranis generally, and, in particular, the Khid- darzai section of these tribes- men. It had been originally pro- posed by Sir Robert Sande- man that the Khiddarzais should be attacked by two forces of equal strength, the one starting from the Punjab and the other from Apozai as bases of operations. The Indian Government, however, decided that only one force should be despatched, and that from the Ouetta side, Mr. Bruce, the Commissioner of the Derajat, to join it in the Khiddarzai country in order the more satisfactorily to settle the various points of difference with the tribe in question. In consequence of the con- tinued representations which were made, this decision e.V 122 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE was subsequently changed, and a detachment of the Punjab frontier force was finally placed by the Govern- ment at the disposal of Sir George White to operate against the Sheranis from the direction of the Punjab and the Derajat to the east. The Punjab force was placed under the immediate command of Colonel A. G. Ross, C.B., of the ist Sikh Infantry, and consisted of one troop of the ist Punjab Cavalry, one squadron of the 3rd Punjab Cavalry, four guns of No. i (Kohat) Mountain Battery, two guns of No. 7 (Bengal) Mountain Battery, and half a battalion each of the ist and 2nd Sikh Infantry, and of the 2nd Punjab Infantry, a total of 1 65 1 of all ranks. The Khiddarzais were in hot water on every side, there beino- cases for settlement arainst them both from o o the Punjab and Beluchistan. The chief matter against them, however, was the non-surrender of four refugees with them who were accused of murder, and the refusal of Murtaza Khan to come in. A deputation of the leading maliks of the tribe had waited upon the Deputy- Commissioner of Dera Ismail Khan at Shekh Budin the previous June, but had been dismissed because of their being- unable to gruarantee the surrender of these criminals. In accordance with the final plan of campaign, Mr. Bruce met the Zhob Force at Sapai, having got there under tribal escort by way of the Gomal Pass, and accompanied it thence to Apozai. Here, before actually starting, a formal ultimatum was drawn up and des- APOZAI TO MOGUL KOT 123 patched to Murtaza Khan and the other Khiddarzai chiefs, calHng upon them to surrender themselves without delay. To this a reply was received asking for a month to consider the matter, but as this was out of the question, Sir Robert Sandeman instructed General White that the only course left open now was to bring force of arms to bear upon these tribesmen. An immediate advance was accordingly resolved upon. For the purposes of this expedition the Zhob Force was divided into two columns, one beine under Sir George White and the other under Colonel Nicolson. The genera] plan was that the Headquarters column should march by Wala, over the Muramuzh range, to Namur Kalan, the headquarters of the Khiddarzais, and Nicolson's column by way of the Chuhar Khel Dhana to Mogul Kot, while at the same time Colonel Ross's force was to proceed to, and occupy, Drazand, the largest village of the Largha Sheranis. I was again with Colonel Nicolson's column. The start from Apozai took place on October 31. Just before we left, our prospect of a fight was raised to a high pitch by a wire from Colonel Ross at Daraban that on the previous day a reconnoitring party of thirty men of the Punjab Cavalry had gone to the mouth of Daraban Lam and been fired upon by a Sherani picket, which had then immediately withdrawn to a sangar, a small fort built up of loose rock and stones on the hill. This news seemed to hold out a prospect of considerable opposition on the part of the Largha Sheranis. The Largha 124 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE Sheranis, by the way, are settled in the districts forming the eastern slopes of the main Suleiman range — those living on the western slopes are the Bargha Sheranis. At the same time we were put on our guard, and marched "as in an enemy's country." On the occasion in question the cavalry had dismounted and fired back at the tribesmen, dislodging them from the sangar and killing three and wounding several others. Our column was accompanied by Sir Robert Sandeman, Mr. Bruce, Major Garwood, C.R.E., and Captain Lamb, D.A.A.G., and consisted of two guns of No. 7 Mountain Battery, Royal Artillery, two companies of the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry, one troop of the 1 8th Bengal Lancers, half a company of the Bombay Sap- pers and Miners and the 3rd Beluchis. We carried four clays' rations regimentally, as well as six days' rations in commissariat charge. Our first halting-place was Kapip Kach, distant eight or nine miles, and this we reached at half-past nine in the morning, having started about 6.10 A.M. and made one halt at seven o'clock. Our route was by a well marked out road, with excellent water all the way in rivulets with gravel bottoms. Marching conse- quently was good. On the whole, the country here was quite different to that of which we had had experience hitherto ; there was a lot of cultivation about, trees, &c. APOZAI TO MOGUL KOT 127 Kapip Kach itself (elevation 5140 feet) is on the left bank of the Siliaza nullah, and our camping-ground here was a very fair one, on fallow land. The water supply was good and plentiful from the stream, and wood and grass and bhussa were all obtainable. On the hillsides about the place a good number of wild olive trees were also to be seen. Next day, November i, we left Kapip Kach before 6.15 A.M, and marched to Mani Khwah (elevation 5600 feet), a distance of sixteen miles, arriving at the latter place at 12.5 p.m. Two halts were made en route, from 7.15 A.M. to 7.25 A.M. and from 9 a.m. to 9.40 a.ji. On this march we had good going, mostly in the river (Siliaza) bed, but we met with no water, with the exception of a small well of black looking stuff about three miles from our destination. On the way, we crossed the easy Atsu Kotal (elevation 5750 feet), where a band of Khiddarzais under Ranigul, a noted robber, had, the previous January, fired upon a reconnoitring party. The last few miles of our r'. > <-^ CIirHAR KHEL DHAN'A — LOWER ENTRANCE of Colonel Turner of the 2nd Punjab Infantry. Here, too, we accidentally met Carnana, whom we had known 192 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE at Malta some years before, when we were stationed there and he was in the Royal Malta Fencible Artillery. Naturally we spent a pleasant time going over old experi- ences and events generally. From Mogul Kot our party came on straieht to Dhana War, a distance of about \\n c^^^^-^^^^^^, ^*-j. DHAXA WAli four miles, our camp here being pitched upon the culti- vated flats or kaches, below a stone tower and the other houses that comprised the place. On arrival, we found already there Captain Milton's column from Namur Kalan, they having got in about half an hour before us, after traversing about nine miles of very rouofh roads. There were some stone huts here over- hanging the river with a weird looking woman in long black flowing garments apparently in charge. On the 20th, w^e continued our march to Dhana Sir, getting away about 7 A.ii., and arriving at our old camping-ground at 10.5 a.^i. Our way lay through the FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 195 old Dhana, but the river now seemed to be slightly flooded, and already the track, which we had spent so much labour in makino: through this wonderful ororo-e, was worn out in many places. At Dhana Sir we occupied a new camping-ground, more to the west of the old one, and on a very rocky situation. Here the Eng-lish mail arrived the same eveningf, brineine, besides an epistle from home, a copy of the Grapliic (October 25, 1S90), containing my series of sketches "From Ouetta to Kilat," a four-page supplement in brown ink, all well reproduced. I also got a copy of the Daily GrapJiic, containing my " O'Mealy's Horse," and saw and read with much interest an amusing criticism on the latter in the Army and Navy Gazette. At this point I took over the command of E Company from Captain Burke, who had had a bad bout of dysentery, and was going back next day. We were all together now, companies B C E and F of the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry. Next day was Friday, and we halted at Dhana Sir. In the morning the iSth Bengal Lancers came in, and we all welcomed them with heartiness. The whole of the so-called Vihowa column was accordingly now con- centrated at Dhana Sir. On the 22nd, Saturday, our column being ready to march, we started about seven o'clock in the morning, from the river bed below our camp. Earlier in the morning, about six o'clock, we had a heavy shower of rain, and the manner in which some of our natives then 196 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE protected themselves was rather quaint, the greatcoat being fastened over tlie turban, instead of about the neck, and the sleeves sailing free, giving the impression of headless giants wandering about disconsolately in the rain. Throughout this march, however, it kept fine, although it was dark and cloudy, which perhaps accounts for our march seeming a sjDecially long one ; the actual distance was nineteen miles. Besides, there was a lot of loose shingle about the road, which did not make the pleasantest going, and we had no water, which made it rather trying. However, we at last arrived at our camping-ground at Lewaghwazh, and glad we were to get there. Next day, November 23, which was Sunday, we had a short march to Vihowa Toi Sir, a distance of about nine miles and a quarter. Here a halt was made for one day, the Major and Major Garwood and Lieutenant Liddell, R.E., riding off about 11 o'clock the following morning with reconnoitring parties to inspect the river track forward. Here are their " catch-'em-alive " escort and guides — a rough looking lot, very much impressed with the importance of their duties. On this last day, the 24th, about forty men of E Company of the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry were out, but I did not accompany them. It had been raining all the morning and the clouds came down the hills lower and lower until at last all the peaks were completely blotted out. I succeeded, notwithstanding. FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 199 in getting a fair sketch of the place where we were stationed. We o-ot some fishino" here and toolc a o o quantity of brown trout. The mahseer we found, too, quite as voracious as before. On the 25th our column set out again, this time marchinsf to Tan!:a Sir, a distance of twelve miles, and encamping there about three-quarters of a mile from the mouth of the Kurman tang-j or tangis rather, for there are really two short tangis here. In camp, most of us tried burning small wood-fires inside the tents to dry them, if possible, as well as our various articles of clothing, boots, putties, socks and the like, all of which 200 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE were simply soaked. The effect on our saturated things, however, was not very great, and we got for ourselves sore eyes through the smoke issuing from the damp wood. Next day, the 26th, we remained halted at Tangi Sir. On this day, and indeed for several days, it simply con- tinued raining without intermission, whole torrents pouring down the hillsides. During our halt here, which continued till the 30th, Major Garwood seized the opportunity of reconnoitring the Kurman tangi, and reported that it would not be possible to make a camel track through it with the tools and forces at his command in a less period than three weeks. As, however, it was found that instead of oroing' through the tangi, it might be passed by a road going- over the range to the north which might be prepared in about three days, it was resolved to work at the latter route. This accordingly was done, but progress was very slow owing to the heavy rain which fell. On the 29th, however, sufficient advance had been made with this road-making work for Pyrke and F Company of the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry with the Sappers and Miners to traverse it and go on to the Sema nullah on the other side, distant fifteen or sixteen miles, where ■ they encamped. It was intended that they should con- ' tinue the road-making operations from that point, but they had only just got through when the rain came on again in torrents, and the river, which before had been easy to ford, rose with such rapidity and became so swift FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 203 that it was hard to keep one's feet ; and we had some amusing sights in the shape of duckings, administered by the river to some native followers who would try to cross. The following morning, that is to say, Sunday the 30th, companies B and C of the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry moved on also to the Sema camp, setting out from Vihowa Toi Sir at about 9 o'clock in the morning, and stopping at a place about a mile below Pyrke's camp on the river and at the head of a new tangi. These companies left their tents standing at Tangi Sir, E Company putting up all the kits and striking and loading the whole camp. A nice St. Andrew's Day it was ! We had scarcely started from Tangi Sir about half-past twelve o'clock when the rain commenced again to come down in torrents accompanied by the most vivid lightning. What made things worse, too, and even dangerous, was that landslips kept occurring all around us. I — for I was with this baggage and rear guard party ■ — had a most unpleasant night of it, being soaked to the skin before I had got beyond a mile from our old camp. The track, too, was in a fearful state, and our camels kept slipping so much that they actually lay down and refused to move, which gave us no end of trouble in all directions. As the afternoon and evening progressed it seemed to rain more and more and it soon got quite dark. As we had no spare animals I had to walk on, or rather climb, into the next camp, there to get a lantern and four mules, then returning to bring on the spare kits and tents. We had an exceedingly hard time of it getting through the 204 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE torrent, having to wade nearly all the time. Some of our men were even washed off their legs, and at least one helmet besides some putties were carried away and lost. At last, however, we succeeded in making our camp, arriving there at half-past nine drenched to the skin, only to find that our tents and kits had been in the river too ! whilst the others who had come on ahead wet and shivering over smoky wood fires. At the Sema nullah it was found that there was yet another very narrow or " tight " place, called the Gat tangi, to be passed about half a mile further on. Ac- cordingly, as this too had to be worked upon, we halted at Sema during December i and 2, while every available man was set to work to prepare the road through this tangi. Meanwhile there was a lull in the wet weather ' In FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 207 and our men seized the opportunity to try to dry their things. Their attempts at making chapattis were wonderful. The chapattis is the natives' bread ; a thin, unsweetened kind of pancake, requiring much dexterity to be a success. A native will pat one out in his hands in a very short time, and then brown it neatly over a wood fire, when it is excellent ; but the one my boatman Davis had very thoughtfully been trying to prepare for me was like a squashed out dumpling and much more indigestible. On the 1st of December, Lieutenant Southey, Field Intelligence Officer, set out from the Sema camp to inspect the road over the Zhba Kotal to Vihowa by the Guzai nullah. This, however, he found to be even more difficult than the road by which we had come and not a bit shorter. At last, on the 3rd, we got off again, the whole column marching through the Gat tangi to Kaiwahan, a distance of about seven and three-quarter miles. The road here was an easy one over a stony plateau. We set out about half-past seven o'clock in the morning, I going on ahead with a working party to patch up the last bits of the tangi. Afterwards we acted as baggage guard and brought in all the camels. About half-way on this march we met the English mail, forwarded from Vihowa, and, on the bag being opened, got our home letters. Towards the latter part of our journey the track again became rough, a number of nasty kotals having to be passed just at the finish. 2o8 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE From our stony camp at Kaiwahan we had a lovely view of INIisri Roh, a round-topped mountain of 10,200 feet elevation, the upper part covered with the snow which had been fallino- • the ridg-es below were o;reat tooth-shaped prominences sticking up almost perpendicu- larly. The evening lights made a beautiful bit of colour- ing of the whole scene. Next day, the 4th of December, we left Kaiwahan (elevation 2900 feet) for Chittawatta, a march of nearly fourteen miles. Our start was made about seven o'clock in the morning, and our route led at first for three miles up hill over kotals, after which we descended for about five miles, then followinsf the river bed for six miles, where we had frequently to wade. At about three miles out we got a fine view from the top of one of the kotals away to the north-west of Misri Roh, a mountain 10,700 feet in elevation, with snow on the summit, to the right of which we could also see a bit of the Takht-i- Suleiman with clouds hanging over it and snow on its peak. Our track this day was a very bad one for camels in places, and on the way we passed some curious rock formations and strata. On the 5th, Friday, our march was a sixteen-mile one to Zermunga, I being on this occasion on advance guard with E Company of the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry. We started about 6.30 a.m. and halted from 7.30 A.M. to 8.45 A.ii. We went mainly along the river bed, which here was very stony with steep cliffy hills on either side, and had to climb over many huge boulders FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 2ii besides frequently having to ford the stream. Our camp at Zermunga was on a sandy and muddy ground with many tamarisk trees about and abundance of firewood. We reached Vihowa on the following day, Saturday, the 6th of December, having set out from Zermunga at half-past six in the morning. The distance was thirteen miles and our road ran in an easterly direction, following the river, whose course here winds considerably among cliffy hills. The whole country was very bleak and bare, and we had again and again to cross the stream, some- times being knee-deep in water. The outlet of this ravine, the Badri nullah, a tributary of the Vihowa, was reached about nine o'clock, and when we got into the plains beyond we made a halt, Vihowa being still six miles farther on. From this point onwards we had a magnificent view of the Punjab, the long flat sandy reaches of which were covered with trees, chiefly palm trees, acacias and tamarisks, and well cultivated, a very pleasing sight indeed, after the long spell of barren rock and mountaineering that we had experienced. The effect seemed to be great on the men, for when once on the flats again they got into quite a swinging pace and marched into Vihowa in grand form, quite an oasis after the wilderness through which we had passed. Here we found a native bazaar and quite an abundance of supplies, and many gardens. It was pleasant too to hear all the birds calling about one again, and to see some animal life after the wildernesses we had been in. Next day, the 7th, Sunday, we had a rest at Vihowa, 212 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE and the natives did a brisk trade with us, bringing in eggs flour and other supplies, including vegetables and fruit, which we had for some time sadly lacked. At the dak bungalow, too, we found a great quantity of native stores for sale ; and there is also a Tehsil in this place. The village, as a whole, is a great straggling affair of mud houses, but there was plenty of cultivation all around, and attached to many of the dwellings were gardens abound- ing both in fruit and in vegetables, as well as any amount of date palms growing thickly everywhere and in many places quite overhanging the streets. We also got some chilgozha, or edible pine nuts here, these being brought in from the mountains to be sold. As for the popula- tion of this place, it consists for the most part of the money-grubbing Hindus who keep the bunyas or shops. Thomas Atkins was unsparing in his purchases, and these natives could not for many a long day have done so good a trade. As we had not seen fresh vegetables for a long time these were eagerly bought up, turnips being eaten tops and all, and carrots being considered a delicacy. Eggs also were to be had and plenty of fresh milk and butter, and the inevitable dak bungalow " murghi " chicken. Our camp at Vihowa was close to the Tehsil, to the right on some old patches of cultivation, the village being to the left with all its gardens and fruit trees, &c. From this place, too, we had a fine view, to the right of the camp, of the Takht-i- Suleiman and Misri Roh, both snow-capped and overhung with clouds all day, the lights being very pretty and the colouring FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 215 grand. Here, too, we saw any amount of green parrots and whole flocks of minahs, and heard at night the old famiHar jackal. From Vihowa, our column continued its march to Dhera Ghazi Khan, reaching Tibi, distant sixteen miles, on the 8th. When we left Vihowa, which we did about 6.45 A.M., the natives turned out in great force to hear our bands and see us off. On the 9th we set out from Tibi for Taunsa, a distance of twenty-one miles. All this day's march was by a regular road, the sixty-fifth milestone being our starting-point, and close to our place of encampment. On the way we passed some small villages, Nari, at the fifty-fifth milestone, being reached about eleven o'clock. At the last-mentioned place we halted half an hour for breakfast, the water there being from wells and very good. The road to this point lay in a south-easterly direction and had on its western or right-hand side a telegraph line. The country on both sides was well culti- vated though rather sandy. In wet weather the road must be very heavy ; indeed, when we were there, deep tracks of feet and of cart-wheels were to be seen in it. We also saw a number of water-wheels for mills in this district, as well as lots of fields of turnips. Past Nari, the water supply got more scarce, which we felt rather, as it was a warm day and no fruit was to be had en rotite. From the forty-seventh milestone onwards we could easily see the dome of Taunsa, which looked very pretty in the sunlight. 2i6 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE The dome is of white marble, the remainder being of glazed tiles of blue, green and yellow, in patterns. The lower part has a verandah of pointed arches. There is a collection of wild animals — a miniature Zoo here. To the left is a big serai, kept up by a rich Beluchi for the benefit of travellers, and on the right may be seen the dak bungalow. Next day, the loth, we started from Taunsa at the forty-fifth milestone, at 7.5 a.m., to march to Undani, a distance of fifteen miles. Here the sig-ns of civilisation cjot Still more numerous, there beino- much cultivation on both sides of the road all the way, and a lot of cotton and barjari to be seen. At the thirty-seventh mile- stone we halted for breakfast, and after a second halt at the thirty-third milestone we proceeded on until we reached the Undani rest-house. Here we found camel orderlies who had been sent out by some of the Punjab Cavalry to meet us ; they had brought with them for our use a quantity of vegetables, together with an invitation to dine at the mess of the Punjab Frontier Force at Dhera Ghazi Khan, whither we were bound, and which we reached on the 12th. From the latter place we returned to Ouetta by rail. The last part of the journey was done in two stages, our column going from Undani to Shahzadaradin, a distance of fifteen miles, on the nth, having left Undani at 6.50 a.m. and arrived at their destination at noon, and proceeding from Shahzadaradin to Dhera Ghazi Khan on the 12th, also a distance of fifteen miles. In these districts, cotton FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 219 seemed to be chiefly cultivated, and the various plots seemed to be very flourishing. There were also a lot of palm trees about, but, notwithstanding the shade afforded by these, it must be a fearfully hot place in summer, for there were punkahs on the roofs of the houses which tells a tale of broiling nights. The only casualty that occurred to our men during the difficult march of this column was the killing of one of the men of the King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry on December 2, through the falling of a stone, or rather, its rolling over with him as he was sitting on it. It is only right that before concluding we should briefly refer to the doings meanwhile of Colonel Nicol- son's and Colonel Ross's columns. I have already remarked that the former marched on November 19 from Kurrum to Drazand with the 3rd Beluchis and a detachment of Sappers and Miners. At Drazand, he halted till the 22nd, as his supplies which he was waiting for did not come in until that day. Meanwhile, how- 220 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE ever, Colonel Ross, with forty sabres of the 3rd Punjab Cavalry, two guns of the No. 7 (Bengal) Mountain Battery, and 290 men of the ist Sikh Infantry, and also accompanied by Mr. King, Deputy-Commissioner of Dera Ismail Khan, had marched on November 16 from Drazand to Raghasar, the chief vil- laufe of the Sultanzais. Halting- here ^^^^ the next day, on the i8th Colonel Ross proceeded to Murgha, the largest of the villages of the Larga Hassan Khel tribe, making this his headquarters, while Mr. King ex- plored the district. On the 20th, Lieutenant McMahon, Assistant Political Agent at Zhob, also arrived, and, with Mr. King, settled the various cases still pending. The Sherani fine was not long in being paid, the Uba Khel and Hassan Khel tribes getting rid of their obligations by the 24th, and only the Chuhar Khel fine of 1000 rupees remaining unpaid at that date. The last also, however, was paid on the 29th, and on that day, accordingly, Colonel Ross withdrew from Murgha and joined the other column at Drazand. By December 2 the entire Sherani country was left, the whole force at Drazand marching off to Draband. At this place, Murtaza Khan, the much sought-after Khiddarzai malik, also came in, thus making a most satisfactory completion to the settle- ment of matters. FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 223 Whilst these events were in progress, Colonel Nicol- son and his detachment also were busy, having, on November 23, marched with fifteen days' supplies from Drazand to Murgha, a distance of seven miles, and joined Colonel Ross there, exploring on the 24th the east end of the Gat nullah. Then, on the 25th, Colonel Nicolson's force went from Murgha to Sur Kach, distant eight miles, passing en route the village of Wazir Kot, the headquarters of Palak Khan, chief of the Hassan Khel section, proceeding on the 26th to Gandari Kach, distant seven miles, where is the mouth of the Zao Pass, which it was important to explore. Here a reconnoitring party set to work to inspect the road through the defile, which was done as far as the Siri rock. During this expedition a lot of heavy rain fell, causing frequent descents of conglomerate and other rock masses down the hillsides, which rendered marching somewhat dangerous. Indeed, a sad disaster happened on the 27th. On that morning a party of twenty men, includ- ing a naik and three Sepoys of the 3rd Beluchis, some regimental camel sarwans and Sherani followers, had gone under a cliff at the entrance to the gorge to shelter from the heavy rain, when a fall of rock occurred just at the spot where they were, and completely buried them. Only two were got out, and of these one was dead and the other in a dying state. The recovery of the remaining bodies was rendered impossible on that day by further falls, one of these nearly burying the rescue party, but on the 28th, the weather having then 224 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE moderated and the rain ceased, nine more bodies were recovered. On the 29th, work in the pass was resumed, but that night a fearful thunderstorm came on and heavy- rain fell, causing the torrent to rise to six feet in height, and destroying the greater portion of the ramping work completed on the previous days. The damage, however, was nearly all repaired again on the 30th, and further improvements were then also effected beyond the Siri rock. Accordingly, the road through the Zao defile having been thus prepared. Colonel Nicolson and his detach- ment marched through it on December i, from Gandari Kach to Kamal Kulia, a distance of nine miles, the camels getting along without much trouble. This pass is probably the easiest of the four which penetrate the Suleiman range into the Sherani country, namely, the Chuhar Khel Dhana, Khiddarzai Dhana, Gat and Zao. The Gat, on the other hand, is undoubtedly the worst, and at that time was absolutely impassable for animals and almost so for foot men. Through the other two passes fair roads might be made at considerable trouble and expense. Next day, December 2, Colonel Nicolson's party, now no longer accompanied by Mr. King and Lieu- tenant McMahon, these having left the previous day for Kashmir Kar, marched a distance of ten miles, from Kamal Kulia to Mazrai Kach, exploring during the day the western end of the Gat Pass. Then, on the 3rd, the march was continued to Amandi Dar, distant FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 225 eleven miles, and on the 4th to Birkadar's Fort, a distance of fifteen miles. This last place was only about two miles to the north-west of the Mani Khwah camping-gTound, used by the Zhob Force on the ist and 2nd of November. Two more days' march- ing brought Colonel Nicolson to Apozai, his party stopping at Kapip Kach, distant from Birkadar's Fort sixteen miles, on the 5th and next day getting over the remaining distance of eight and a half miles to Apozai. Subsequently to this expedition negotiations for a final settlement of matters with the Largha section of the Sheranis were proceeded with, but these hardly come within the scope of this work. The chief terms agreed upon, however, were — (i) that the Zao, Khid- darzai and Chuhar Khel Passes were to be kept open for traffic, the safety of caravans and travellers using these being guaranteed by the tribesmen ; {2) that British officers and other officials should have free and safe passage through any part of the Sherani country ; (3) that the maliks should be personally responsible for the carrying out of these arrangements, failing the due observance of which, the British Govern- ment was to be at liberty to reoccupy the country ; (4) that certain selected hostages should be taken for the future good faith of the tribe, the latter as a whole to be responsible for the acts of its individual members ; (5) that the Larga wals should be restored and redis- tributed ; and (6) that levy posts should be established 226 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE at Mogul Kot, Nishpa or Khushbina, Gandari Kach, Drazand and Domandi. These various matters having- been thus settled, the political prisoners, of whom we now had a large number, were released on the security of the tribal jirga, except that Murtaza Khan, Rana Gul, Sada Gul and other more notable prisoners, received special punishments for their offences. In conclusion, I would quote Sir George White's despatch, in which he sums up the operations of the Zhob Field Force as follows : " The work of the Zhob Field Force here terminated. It may be said to have been employed for two months. During that time the columns com- posing it marched in the aggregate 1800 miles. Of this distance, 828 miles were over new routes, which had never before been followed by a British force, and to traverse which the troops had often to make their own roads. The results of the operations have been rather political than military. All arrange- ments in the first phase were made with the studied object of making friends, and not of conquering enemies. "In the operations against the Sheranis the strength of the force, together with the dominating positions which it gained on all sides, left no alternative to the tribesmen but submission. It has, however, been ascer- tained with certainty that before our approach they had A PRISOXER-OF-WAK FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 227 sat in jij'ga, and the various sections of the tribe had bound themselves to oppose the British advance into their country with their united strength. " The operations entailed upon officers and men exertions and exposure of an exceptional kind. The character of the country, in some instances, prevented the use of transport animals ; the men had then to carry bedding, rations, and cooking-pots for themselves, and to sleep without tents in a temperature of from 13^ to 20° of frost. The marching was always over rocks and stones, and often in river-beds, where the water ruined boots and clothing, entailing heavy expense on the soldiers, both British and native. " I would beer to bringf to the favourable notice of the Commander-in-Chief the following officers who commanded corps : "Colonel M. H. Nicolson, commanding the 30th Bombay Infantry (3rd Beluch Battalion), who, through- out nearly all the operations, commanded a separate column, and who opened a road through both the Chuhar Khel and Zao Uhanas. " Lieutenant-Colonel H. R. L. Morgan, Royal Artil- lery, commanding No 7 Mountain Battery. " Major O'M. Creagh, V.C, commanding the 29th Bombay Infantry (2nd Beluch Battalion). " Major H. C. Symons, commanding the 2nd Battalion King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry, and who com- manded the column that established communication through the Vihowa Pass. 228 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE "Major G. L. R. Richardson, commanding the i8th Bengal Lancers. "Of the departmental' officers, Deputy-Surgeon- General S. A. Lithgow, C.B., D.S.O., an officer of great experience in the field, did much to promote the success- of the expedition. "Lieutenant-Colonel J. R. Burlton Bennet, chief Com- missariat officer, did all that forethought and arrangement could do to equip the force with transport and commissariat supplies, and to stop the magazines in the field, but as he was at the same time carrying on the duties of chief Commissariat officer of the Ouetta district, it was not for the interest of the service that he should be present with the field force throughout. The executive commis- sariat charge therefore fell on Lieutenant J. W. G. Tulloch. " Major J. F. Garwood, Royal Engineers, was Com- manding Engineer of the force. Owing to the nature of the country marched over, his work was most important. He opened roads practicable for camels through the Chuhar Khel Dhana and Vihowa Pass, and was con- stantly employed in minor works of the same character. His services were most valuable. "Surgeon-Major G. J. H. Evatthad charge of two sec- tions of the 23rd British Field Hospital, and worked with characteristic zeal, ability, and powers of organisation. " Of the officers serving on my immediate staff I would name the following : " Lieutenant-Colonel P. D. Jeffreys, Assistant Adjutant- FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 229 General of the force, was my chief staff officer and right- hand man throughout, and proved himself as valuable a staff officer in the field as I have invariably found him in quarters. I commend him to the special notice of His Excellency the Commander-in-Chief as an officer whose advancement would be a benefit to the service. " Captain A. H. Mason, Royal Engineers, Deputy Assistant Quartermaster-General for Intelligence, and Captain J. Lamb, Deputy Assistant Adjutant-General, rendered me willing and valuable assistance. " I have reserved tor special mention two officers, not at the head of corps or departments, whose individual services have earned special recognition from me : " Lieutenant J. W. G. Tulloch, executive Commissariat officer to the force. I consider that no officer rendered such valuable service to the State as this promising- young commissariat officer. The numerous detachments into which I divided the force were often placed in positions where ordinary pack animals could not carr)- supplies, and in a country destitute of provisions of all kinds the supply question was thus a very difficult one. I cannot speak too highly of the way in which Lieutenant Tulloch carried out his duties. He is worthy of a higher post in his department. "Captain P. W. A. A. Milton, King's Own Yorkshire Light Infantry, was with me in all the operations in which I had to call upon the officers and men for ex- ceptional efforts, and to his irresistible example, careful arrangement, and capacity for command I owe, in a great 230 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE measure, the complete success which attended them. He is one of the few officers I have met endowed equally with dash to lead an advanced guard and patience to bring in a rear guard. He served under me in Burma in command of mounted infantry, where his services were also most valuable. " Colonel A. G. Ross, C.B., commandinof the contingent of the Punjab Frontier Force placed under my command, co-operated with me most effectively, and made very careful and well considered arrangements throuMiout. " Lastly, I would beg to record my acknowledgment of the great assistance which I have invariably met with from Colonel Sir Robert Sandeman, K.C.S.I., and the political officers serving under him. I would espe- cially name Captain I. Maclvor, Political Agent, Zhob ; Major G. Gaisford, Political Agent, Ouetta ; Mr. J. S. Donald, in political charge of the Gomal. "Where the work to be done was so largely political, it was of the first importance that the military and civil should work together harmoniously and whole-heartedly. Sir Robert Sandeman's high status and great political experience made his position with a field force one of exceptional weight and importance, and I recognise very fully the consideration which he has invariably shown to me as military commander." In another part of the despatch, with reference to the fine inflicted upon the Sherani tribesmen. Sir George White says : " This fine has since been paid in full, and Murtaza FROM MOGUL KOT HOMEWARDS 231 Khan, who had been for many years an avowed and active enemy of the British Government, surrendered himself to the Commissioner of the Derajat after the troops had been withdrawn from the Sherani Hill— a result, I submit, due entirely to the strong policy of Sir Robert Sandeman in insisting upon the responsibility of the tribe for the acts of its individual representatives. A SHERANI TRIBESMAN and a conclusive proof that the Sheranis no lono-er believe in the impregnability of their position to shield them from the long arm of England's power." Further, in sending on General White's despatch to the Indian Government, the Adjutant-General in India said: "The first phase of the expedition, although explorative rather than militant, demanded from all ranks exertions of a kind very unusual even in a pro- tracted campaign ; and the final operations undertaken for the coercion of the Khiddarzai gave fresh examples of the endurance and enterprise of the troops and their commander. The excellent dispositions made by the 232 THE ZHOB FIELD FORCE latter resulted in the speedy submission of the recalcitrant tribe, which relying on the inaccessibility of its mountain fastnesses has hitherto maintained a defiant attitude. His Excellency has much pleasure in again bringing to notice the services of Major- General Sir George White, whose distinguished conduct of operations in the field has so often obtained the approval of Government." And the Secretary to the Military Department of the Government of India, in acknowledging receipt of the Adjutant-General's letter, used the following words : "In reply, I am to say that the Governor- General in Council has read Sir George White's report with much satisfaction, and cordially appreciates the good work done by the troops under trying circumstances, and the ability, judgment and vigour with which the operations have been conducted by Sir George White." (See London Gazette, May 19, 1891.) Sir George White is now Commander-in-Chief in India. By the death of Sir Robert Sandeman, which occurred not long after this expedition, our frontier sus- tained a great loss. THE END /^ Printed hy Ballantvne, Hani-'.ox 8: Co. Jldlnburgh and Lomhin.