CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
 
 Gift of 
 Herbert Fisk Johnson '22 
 
DP 525.K56"'l829'"'""'' '""'"^ 
 
 3 1924 028 549 230 
 
The original of this book is in 
 the Cornell University Library. 
 
 There are no known copyright restrictions in 
 the United States on the use of the text. 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924028549230 
 
PORTUGAL ILLUSTRATED. 
 
LONDON : 
 
 PRINTED BY A, J, VALPY, RED LION COURT, FLEET STREET. 
 
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 :iF COItMBRA, 
 

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 THE B,EV? W. M . KIMgJfiY, 31 
 
 FELLOW^ OF TRFNITY COLLEGE, OXFORD, iUSTD CPL4PLAIN TO THE RIGHT HON. 
 
 LORD AUCKLiUSTD. 
 
 MBCCCX^IX . 
 
PORTUGAL ILLUSTRATED; 
 
 IN A 
 
 SERIES OF LETTERS. 
 
 BY 
 
 THE REV. W. M. KINSEY, B.D. 
 
 FELLOW OF TRINITY COLLEGE, OXFORD; AND CHAPLAIN TO THE 
 RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD AUCKLAND. 
 
 EMBELLISHED WITH 
 
 A MAP, PLATES OF COINS, VIGNETTES, MODINHAS, 
 
 AND VARIOUS 
 
 ENGRAVINGS OF COSTUMES, LANDSCAPE SCENERY, &c. 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 PUBLISHED FOR THE AUTHOR, BY 
 TREUTTEL AND wtJRTZ, TREUTTEL ^UN. AND RICHTER, 
 
 FOREIGN BOOKSELLERS TO THE KING, 30, SOHO SQUARE. 
 
 1829. 
 
 1 I I ' I \ 
 
TO 
 THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 
 
 GEORGE EDEN 
 
 BARON AUCKLAND 
 
 THIS WORK 
 
 WITH RESPECT AND ESTEEM 
 
 INSCRIBED 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The substance of the following Letters has been 
 supplied in part from the author's journal, and partly 
 from a series of communications addressed to Mr. Bayly 
 and several other friends, with whom he maintained a 
 correspondence during his travels in Portugal. These 
 materials, acquired by great personal exertion during a 
 residence of some months in the country, have been 
 subsequently much enlarged by reference to statistical, 
 geographical, historical, and other works of a miscella- 
 neous character, professing to give an account of the 
 country ; and this varied information has been em- 
 ployed in such a manner, it is hoped, as not altogether 
 to destroy the claims of the work to originality of 
 design. Quotations, it is true, have been abundantly 
 introduced; but it must be obvious, from the wide 
 range of original materials possessed by the author, that 
 
vi PREFACE. 
 
 the advantage of the reader has been more considered 
 in their employment, than his own reputation as the 
 writer of an original tour. He has felt the more 
 indifferent to the specious fame of originality, because 
 his exclusive object has been to make his readers 
 completely acquainted with every point of interest 
 connected with the history, the ancient and the modern 
 state, of Portugal. 
 
 To render the delineation of Lusitania as complete 
 as possible, numerous engravings, with vignettes (all exe- 
 cuted in the first style of excellence), descriptive of land- 
 scape scenery, buildings, cities, the customs and habits 
 of the Portuguese, have been likewise introduced at a 
 very considerable expense. Poetical illustrations, also, 
 have been made use of, in aid of the graphic descrip- 
 tions, and of the author's personal narrative ; it being 
 presumed that the vivid representations of the poet 
 would, in many instances, have all the force of the 
 burin of the engraver, as well as of the detail of the 
 tourist. For the purpose of more useful illustration, 
 the author has aided his own statements with a map 
 of Portugal, plates of the Portuguese coins, and the 
 best original specimens of the national music which he 
 could procure ; and, in order to make the character and 
 dress of the natives of Portugal more familiar to the 
 people of this country, several plates of the costumes of 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 vn 
 
 the different orders of society have been added to the 
 work; for the strict accuracy of the drawing and 
 colouring of which he considers himself pledged to 
 the public. In short, no means have been neglected 
 to render the Illustrations of Portugal as comprehen- 
 sive, substantial, and useful, as the general reader, 
 and even the future traveller in Portugal, could re- 
 quire. 
 
 The original design, indeed, of the author in visiting 
 Portugal, was to collect for the use of his countrymen 
 a variety of interesting facts from personal observation, 
 and to bring back reminiscences of the feelings, man- 
 ners, and customs, of its inhabitants, which might make 
 the people of England better acquainted with the 
 peculiar features of a country, between which and their 
 own so long and so intimate an union has been esta- 
 blished by treaty, and cemented by habits of intercourse ; 
 of a people who participate with Englishmen in the 
 proud recollection of so many victories, the fruits of 
 their united prowess. The Portuguese, even of the 
 better classes, very rarely travel, for the mere plea- 
 sure of travelling, beyond the walls of their own 
 quintas ; they are seldom known to take great interest 
 in, or make much observation on, the natural features 
 of their beautiful country ; and consequently are gene- 
 rally found to afford, from their own personal expe- 
 
VIU 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 rience, but scanty information to those inquiring few 
 who venture to traverse their provinces. The traveller 
 in Portugal is frequently exposed to danger, and always 
 to considerable personal inconvenience, arising both 
 from the nature of the climate and the character of the 
 government and people; and he is generally left to 
 hazard conjectures about points of positive interest, of 
 which, in a country more perfected in civilization, and 
 not so oppressed by bigoted and unwise rule,— the 
 blended result of royal imbecility and priestly assump- 
 tion of power, — he might naturally expect to meet on 
 the spot with satisfactory explanations. 
 
 Having personally experienced these difficulties, in 
 addition to certain obstacles thrown . occasionally in 
 his way by prejudice and jealousy, the author re- 
 solved to place in the hands of his countrymen a 
 work on Portugal, which, at least, should afford a 
 faithful and comprehensive, though still a synoptical, 
 view of all the great subjects of interest connected with 
 the history of that country ; its ancient and modern 
 condition, from the rule of its Roman masters to the 
 possession of its sceptre by the house of Braganza ; its 
 religious, civil, literary, military, naval, commercial, 
 colonial, academic, and scientific establishments. The 
 familiar and hurried style of epistolary writing, in 
 which the simple statement of facts is always of infi- 
 
PREFACE. ix 
 
 nitely greater importance than an anxiety for elegance 
 of diction, has abated much perhaps of the classical 
 form in which it was to be expected that the author 
 would present his Illustrations of Portugal to the 
 public ; but, in admitting that judgment to be correct, 
 he claims the unostentatious merit of having endea- 
 voured to extend his views as widely as possible into 
 the state of Portugal, ancient and modern, and to have 
 given the result of his labours and inquiries, if not in a 
 dress calculated to challenge admiration, at least in 
 such a garb as to convince his readers of his indus- 
 trious research ; and moreover, that in producing a 
 work proposed for general utility, as embracing every 
 object, he has allowed neither prejudice, nor the irrita- 
 tion of private feeling, to warp his judgment, or give 
 an undue colouring to his various statements. 
 
 The history of Portugal appeared to form necessarily 
 an important part of the illustration of this work, and 
 therefore a brief historical sketch has been introduced, 
 together with a genealogical table of the sovereigns of 
 Portugal, Referring to the original state of Lusitania ; 
 its Phoenician and Carthaginian connexion ; its con- 
 quest by the Romans, and subsequent separation, toge- 
 ther with the Iberian provinces, from the dismembered 
 empire— the author proceeds to give an account of its 
 existence under the domination of the northern inva- 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 ders of Europe, and its temporary submission to the 
 yoke of the Arabian power ; then of its union with 
 some of the northern provinces of Spain, and final 
 declaration of independence under the Burgundian 
 founder of the monarchy, continued through three 
 dynasties of sovereigns ; next of its maritime discove- 
 ries, its glorious conquests and expulsion of the Moors, 
 and no less triumphant deliverance from the bloody 
 thraldom of the Jesuits ; and finally, he reviews the 
 causes of the empire's decline. 
 
 In addition to this cursory review of the history of 
 Portugal, the author has attempted to enter into a statis- 
 tical examination of its provinces, cities, population, and 
 productions, and to give his readers an insight into the 
 particulars of its commerce ; the various modes practised 
 in the cultivation of the soil ; the vintage, and the fish- 
 eries ; the political engagements and interests of the 
 country ; its civil and criminal jurisprudence, and courts 
 of law ; religion and superstitions ; literary and philo- 
 sophical works ; architecture, including ancient remains ; 
 naval and military power ; political character of the 
 court ; moral, religious, and social habits and customs 
 of the people ; the personal character of the nobility, 
 judges, clergy, and monastic orders; atmosphere, cli- 
 mate, diseases, and thermal baths; with geological 
 descriptions : and to these various matters of interest. 
 
PREFACE. xi 
 
 he has added a brief statement of the leading po- 
 litical events in Portugal, commencing at the period 
 when first the revolutionary armies of France, and next 
 the imperial forces, broke in upon the country, and 
 awoke the slumbering kingdom from its long night of 
 darkness and apathy, and which is carried down to the 
 promulgation of the constitutional charter and the 
 settlement of the succession to the Portuguese throne 
 by the Emperor of Brasil. 
 
 In submitting this second edition to the public, to 
 which he has been induced by the rapid sale of his 
 first, the author has to inform his readers that 
 every page of the former edition has undergone the 
 most sedulous revision, and that large additions of 
 interesting matter have been introduced into the pre- 
 sent ; to such an extent indeed as completely to accom- 
 plish the author's intention in the perfect illustration 
 of Portugal. A brief historical review of the state of 
 literature, arts, and sciences, in Portugal, taken from 
 the earliest times, and brought down to the present 
 period, including notices of the principal authors, poets, 
 and philosophers, who have distinguished themselves at 
 various epochs of time, is given in the form of a supple- 
 mentary letter at the conclusion of the volume, and 
 will doubtless be read with interest on account of its 
 novelty. The information supplied to the author on 
 
xii PREFACE. 
 
 the literature of Portugal by several learned Portu- 
 guese, and more especially by his accomplished friend 
 the Chevalier de Almeida Garrett, now resident in 
 England, has enabled him to lay this general sketch 
 before his readers, in a shape in vii^hich it could not 
 otherwise have appeared ; for the accurate revision of 
 which, the author has to express his infinite obliga- 
 tions to his friend Mr. Adamson of Newcastle, the 
 talented author of the Life of Camoens and of other 
 works ; and to another eminent Portuguese scholar, of 
 whom England is justly proud, but to whom the author 
 does not feel himself authorized to allude more di- 
 rectly. 
 
 It has been found impossible, in the narrow limits 
 assigned to this essay, to notice all the poets and all the 
 writers who might be deserving of that distinction ; 
 perhaps it may be said that a great many names have 
 been left unnoticed, more worthy of mention than 
 those which have been introduced. It is difficult 
 to obtain any satisfactory account of the early Por- 
 tuguese writers, and indeed their works are so little 
 known, that it would require the talent and the patient 
 investigation of Mr. Southey to accomplish a complete 
 history of Portuguese literature. Bouterweck and 
 Sismondi may be said to have surveyed only the coast, 
 but not to have penetrated into the interior of this 
 
PREFACE. xiii 
 
 region ; and even Ferdinand Denis, in the preliminary 
 discourse to his more full account of this unknown 
 land, is yet found to state, " I'histoire litteraire de Por- 
 tugal est encore a faire ;" and, " il m'est reste la certi- 
 tude de n'avoir fait sur la litterature Portugaise, qu'un 
 travail montrant la necessite d'un ouvrage plus etendu." 
 This classic ground, then, has still to be explored and 
 made better known to us by some skilful traveller, 
 qualified for the important task by long habits of fami- 
 liarity with the language and the genius of the people. 
 
 For the general purposes of the work, the best histo- 
 rians of Portugal have been consulted, and recourse for 
 additional information has been had to the military 
 work of Dumourier ; to the valuable statistical account 
 of Portugal by Balbi, of which the Portuguese them- 
 selves with justice speak in the highest terms of eulogy; 
 to the German Link ; to the amusing volumes of Cos- 
 tigan, and to the equally interesting and elegant narra- 
 tive of Southey ; to Mickle's translation of the Lusiad ; 
 Koch's Tableaux des Revolutions de I'Europe ; the 
 Precis des Evenemens Militaires, by Dumas ; the recent 
 work of General Foy, on whose prejudiced narrative, 
 however, too great confidence has not been bestowed ; 
 to the lively account of a short visit to Lisbon, by 
 Hautefort; the elegant work entitled. The State of 
 Portugal j by an eye-witness ; and. finally to the authen- 
 
xiv PREFACE. 
 
 tic and admirable military narrative of Colonel Jones, 
 from whose valuable pages quotations have been freely 
 made wherever they appeared to serve the purposes of 
 illustration. 
 
 With respect to the original sketches, from which 
 engravings in line have been made by Mr. Skelton and 
 Mr. Cooke, who are so well known to antiquaries 
 and persons of taste by many elegant publications of 
 their own,— they have been supplied partly by persons 
 taking a friendly interest in the success of the work, 
 and partly by the clever companion of the author's 
 travels. To him, as well as to Colonel Vandeleur of 
 the 12th Lancers, and Mr. Henry Smith of Bristol, 
 for their singular liberality and kindness, and those 
 other friends to whom he does not permit himself to 
 allude otherwise than in terms of the sincerest gratitude 
 for the services which they have rendered him in every 
 way; to his valuable correspondents at Lisbon and 
 Porto, whose names it might not be delicate or prudent 
 to publish ; — the author's best thanks are due. 
 
 Where the drawings were not of sufficient importance 
 to be engraved in the more finished style, they have 
 been transferred to the wood-engravers, Messrs. Willis 
 and Brooke, for vignettes. 
 
 Four new and strikingly interesting subjects have 
 been engraved on wood by Messrs. Brooke and 
 
PREFACE. XV 
 
 Harvey, and are introduced as vignettes into this 
 edition. 
 
 The engraving of Pezo da Regoa is taken from a 
 foreign print, as the author had no original drawing of 
 that very interesting subject, and he was unwilling to 
 leave it out of his work. The view of Porto from the 
 Serra Convent is taken also from a foreign print, badly 
 done, and extremely scarce. Improved drawings have 
 been made of both these subjects, and the original 
 engravings bear no comparison with those executed for 
 this work by Mr. Skelton. 
 
 Notwithstanding the extreme difficulty of reducing 
 a view of the city of Lisbon into a size that would 
 suit this volume, recent events have given such an 
 additional degree of interest to that capital, that the 
 author resolved to present an engraving of the subject 
 to his readers, for which he is indebted to the prompt 
 compliance and suggestions of Mr. H. Smith. To do 
 justice to the subject, the city of Lisbon should be 
 represented on a very large scale ; but that scale 
 being in this volume impracticable, it is hoped that 
 the present engraving will therefore merit approba- 
 tion. In addition to the graphic illustrations of the 
 former edition, and to the view of Lisbon, the author 
 has given, as a further embellishment of his work, views 
 of the Cork Convent ; of the Palace of Emmanuel at 
 
xvi PREFACE. 
 
 Cintra ; of Belem Castle on the Tagus ; and of Alhan- 
 dra on the Tagus, the extreme right of the lines of Tor- 
 res Vedras, from an original sketch, executed for a 
 noble friend, by Colonel Vandeleur. To these Mr. 
 Adamson, with his wonted liberality and love of the 
 arts, has added plates of the portraits of Camoens and 
 Donna Ignes de Castro. 
 
 The costumes are drawn by Mr. Pugin, from models 
 which were made in Portugal for the author. They 
 have been engraved in outline by Moses, and are aqua- 
 tinted and coloured by an eminent artist. 
 
 Considerable pains have been taken by Mr. Arrow- 
 smith to improve the outline of General Toy's map, into 
 which have been introduced the Portuguese terms accu- 
 rately spelt, instead of the French. The plates of coins are 
 engraved by Mr. Skelton, from drawings by Mr. Pugin ; 
 the three modinhas and constitutional hymn by Mr. 
 Boosey. 
 
 The author's personal narrative is carried down to 
 the month of November, 1 827, and consequently to a 
 period previous to the assumption of the regency of 
 Portugal by Don Miguel. It is impossible for the 
 author to speak of the Portuguese people without sen- 
 timents of regard, mixed with commiseration for their 
 present state of suffering ; and if his feelings, awakened 
 by personal observation against the monastic, ecclesias- 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 xvu 
 
 tical, and fidalguia systems, may appear at any time to 
 have betrayed him into a bitterness of expression in his 
 letters, he trusts that his excuse may be found in the 
 well-grounded conviction that the monks, the priests, 
 and the fidalgos, are the principal authors of the moral, 
 religious, and political degradation, as well as of the 
 abject misery, of their unfortunate country. 
 
 London, 1829. 
 
 ARMORIAL SHIELD OF THE MONASTERY OF TIBAENS. 
 
 Port. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 The Stanmer packet in the Bay of Biscay — Incidents — Ship's crew and 
 payments — Cape Ortegal seen — -Description of the lofty hills which run along 
 the coast of Galicia — Cape Villano in the province of Santiago — Cape de 
 Tosto, to the north of the Bay of Camarinas — Castillo Viejo — Cape Tourinao 
 — The Cape de Nave, or Nave of Einisterre — St. Cristovalde de Finisterra — 
 The elevated ridge of the mountain Lezara — The Isle of Sentolo — Bay of 
 Corcubion, its two horns, Muros and Louro — El Son upon the Ria de Noya 
 and Cape Corrobedo — Appearance of the Galician coast at night — The Ber- 
 lenga Islands — Cape Feizerao, or Peniche — Carreiro-dos-Cafoes and Car- 
 reiro-do-Mosteiro — The Forteleza de San Joao — Faraillon ; the Estrelas 
 rocks — The Cabo da Roca, or Rock of Lisbon — Serra de Cintra and Penha 
 Convent — Light-houses and forts at the mouth of the Tagus — ^The Bay of 
 Cascaes — The Torre de San Juliao da Barra — Portuguese pilot — Squalls off 
 the land — Orange and lemon groves, vineyards, and orchards, attached to the 
 Portuguese quintas — Appearance of the land from Cape TrafFraria to Almada ; 
 fiery breeze of air — The entrance into the Tagus by the North and South 
 Cachopo channels — The Torre de Bugio — The Castle of Belem ; description 
 of the first appearance of Lisbon — The Ajuda Palace, convents, houses, and 
 public buildings — Vignette, Off the Cabo da Roca. . . Page 1 to 12 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 Vicissitude of affairs in Portugal — The geographical situation and extent of 
 Portugal ; its division into proyinces, and the forms of their municipal govern-' 
 
XX COJSTENTS. 
 
 merits — The Lusitani, the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians and Romans, suc- 
 cessively inhabitants of Lusitania — Its early history under these people — Intro- 
 duction of the Christian religion into the Peninsula — Its first invasion by the 
 Moors — their expulsion from Galicia by the kings of Oviedo — Portucalia — 
 Reverses in fortune of the Christian and Mohammedan forces — The latter de- 
 prived of Lisbon in the tenth century — Genealogical table of the three dynas- 
 ties of Portuguese sovereigns from Henry of Burgundy to Queen Maria II. — 
 Fatal battle of Zalaca — Crusade proclaimed by Alphonso VI. against the 
 Moors — His successes — -Henry of Besanyon, of the house of Burgundy, 
 founder of the Portuguese monarchy — Victory gained at Ourique over the 
 Moors by Alphonso Henriquez — Described by Camoens — Consequences of 
 this success to the infant monarchy — Conquest of Lisbon from the Moors, aided 
 by British and G erman crusaders — Convocation of the Cortes at Lamego — 
 The rights of the people acknowledged — The Algarve reduced by Alphonso 
 III. — The baneful influence of the Pope — The dangerous arrogance of the 
 clergy — The patriotism of the sovereign, Denis — Character of Alphonso IV. 
 — ^The Moors defeated at Tarifa by the Castilian and Portuguese forces — 
 Union, in 1479, of the crovens of Arragon, Castile, and Leon — Flight of the 
 Moorish sovereigns from Grenada — Reflections on the character of the Moors 
 — The justice and severity of Peter I. — The murder of Ignes de Castro by 
 Peter's father — Termination in Ferdinand of the Burgundian line — The bas- 
 tard son of Peter advanced to the throne under the title of John 1. — He forces 
 the Spaniards to quit Portugal, after defeating them at Aljubarrota — The first 
 of the dynasty of Avis — ^The independence of the Portuguese monarchy esta- 
 blished — Additional articles in support of popular rights introduced into the 
 constitution established by the former Cortes of Lamego — The enterprizes of 
 the great Prince Henry — Maritime discoveries and improvements in naviga- 
 tion — John, Edward, and Alphonso V. fall victims to the plague — Peace with 
 
 Ferdinand V. of Spain — John II. (the Great) curbs the power of his nobles 
 
 The Cape of Tempests discovered— -Pope Alexander's celebrated line of de- 
 marcation — The brilliant and fortunate reigns of Emmanuel and John III. 
 
 Vasco da Gama discovers the Eastern Peninsula — ^The discovery of Brasil 
 
 Perez Andrade reaches China; Albuquerque, the Red Sea and the coast of 
 Malabar — Portuguese successes on the eastern coast of Africa The increas- 
 ing wealth of Lisbon and Goa, and advancing prosperity of Brasil —Domestic 
 improvements in Portugal — Cruelties of the Inquisition in Europe and in the 
 East; and pernicious power — Dreadful earthquake — John de Castro An- 
 thony de Mota— Jesuitical education of Sebastian— The fatal battle of Alcacar 
 — The character and supposed death of this monarch — Modern sect of Sebas- 
 tianistsin Portugal— Succession of the Cardinal Henry— His character— The 
 
CONTENTS. xxi 
 
 crown seized at his death, for Philip II. of Spain, by the Duke of Alba — 
 Neglect experienced by Camoens — Destruction of the domestic and foreign 
 greatness of Portugal during the usurpation of the three Philips of Spain, from 
 1580 to 1640 — Revolt of the Portuguese — The independence of the kingdom 
 re-established — John IV., the founder of the Braganza dynasty, elected to the 
 sovereignty of Portugal 1640 — Treaties of alliance — Portuguese colonies in 
 Africa, Brasil, and Hindostan, seized by the Dutch — Alphonso VI. succeeds 
 to the crown — Policy of France — Spanish aggressions renewed — Alliance 
 with England, 1661 — Tangiers and Bombay ceded to England as the dowry 
 of the Infanta, wife of Charles II. of England — The victories of Almexial 
 and Montes Claros confirm the independence of Portugal — The war of Spa- 
 nish succession — Alphonso dethroned by his queen, who marries his brother, 
 Peter II., with the sanction of the Pope — The accession of Peter— Peace 
 with the Spaniards and Dutch — ^Treaty of the Hague — Alliance with Eng- 
 land, 1703, against Philip V. and France — Charles of Austria proclaimed 
 sovereign of Spain — The Methuen treaty — Ministry of the Count of Ericeira 
 — Treaty of Utrecht — John V. ascends the throne — Recognition of certain 
 Portuguese colonies by France — Church of Lisbon elevated by the Pope to a 
 patriarchate — Papistical title of " Most Faithful" purchased by the sovereign — 
 His inconsistent conduct — Abuses introduced into every department of the 
 government by a Franciscan friar ; made prime minister — Joseph V. succeeds 
 — Ministry of Pombal — The Jesuits expelled from Portugal — Powers of the 
 Inquisition restrained — Ecclesiastical arrogance receives a wholesome check — 
 The privileges of the fidalguia curtailed — Other blessings procured for the 
 country through the influence and exertions of Pombal — Review of his public 
 character — The Jesuits attempt the life of the king — The consequences of their 
 conduct in the colony of S. Sacrament — Their merited punishment — The 
 dreadful earthquake — Renovation of the city — Treaty of Paris, 1763 — Esta- 
 blishment of the Wine Company of the Douro, and other privileged commer- 
 cial societies — Joseph dies, 1777, leaving his crown to his daughter Mary, and 
 his younger brother Peter III. — Revocation of the wholesome edicts passed 
 in the preceding reign against the insidious Jesuits and turbulent ecclesiastics — 
 Treaty of St. Ildefonso — Improvements, internal and external — Royal Li- 
 brary and Academy of Sciences established in Lisbon — Erection of the Con- 
 vent of Estrella — Mental malady of Queen Mary I. — Regency of the Prince 
 of Brasil — Union with England against the French in 1793 and 1799 — Three 
 invasions of Portugal by the French, defeated by Wellington and Hill — The 
 royal embarkation for Brasil, 1807 — The Court of Portugal established at Rio 
 Janeiro — The Portuguese army re-organized by Lord Beresford — Consequent 
 triumphs in Spain and France — Brasil elevated to the dignity of a kingdom. 
 
xxii CONTENTS. 
 
 1816 — Doin Joao assumes the title of sovereign of the united kingdoms 
 of Portugal, Brasil, and the two Algarves — War between Rio and Buenos 
 Ayres — Accepting the basis of the constitution, and appointing his son viceroy 
 of Brasil, John VI. embarks for Europe — His unworthy reception by the 
 members of the constitutional Cortes, 1821 —Thence the national distaste for 
 the constitutional system — The character and misfortunes of this monarch 
 briefly detailed — Independence of Brasil declared — Its separation from Por- 
 tugal — Don Pedro proclaimed Emperor of Brasil — Reconciliation between 
 Portugal and Brasil brought about by England — Death, by inflammation of 
 the bowels, of Dom Joao VI., March 10, 1826 — Don Pedro IV. acknow- 
 ledged sovereign of Portugal by right of succession, as the eldest son of the 
 deceased monarch — He confirms the appointment by his father of his sister, 
 Isabel Maria, to the regency of Portugal — Decree of the Emperor and King 
 of Portugal, 1827, appointing his brother, the Infante Don Miguel, to the 
 lieutenancy of the kingdom of Portugal and Algarves, and Donna Maria da 
 Gloria, the betrothed wife of Don Miguel, to assume the sceptre of Portugal, 
 conjointly with her uncle-husband, on attaining the full age, under the title of 
 Maria da Gloria II. — The crowns of Portugal and Brasil thenceforward en- 
 tirely disunited — In the mean time, the Infante Miguel is to govern the king- 
 dom conformably to the terras of the constitutional charter, and according to 
 tlie form of his brother, the Emperor's decree — Lord Byron's descriptive lines 
 of the first appearance of Lisbon— Vignette, Lamp in use in the north of Por- 
 tugal 13 to .55 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 Landing at Lisbon — Native boatmen punished by British seamen — Packet- 
 stairs described — Police and custom-house severity — Arrival of the British 
 
 experimental squadron in the Tagus — View from Buenos Ayres described 
 
 Rambles in Lisbon — Weakness and instability of the government — Corcunda 
 and Constitutional parties — The Camarilla faction — Character of the old 
 
 queen — Saldanha's retirement — Consequences — His political conduct Wise 
 
 policy of the British ambassador and commander of the British forces The 
 
 two national theatres — Amphitheatre — Rag-fair in the gardens of Salitre 
 
 Observance of saints' days and Sabbaths in Lisbon — Opera-house National 
 
 music — The modinha — State of society in Lisbon — Want of public walks 
 
 Portuguese females — -Lusitanian physiognomy — A Lisbon dandy Lower 
 
 classes of Portuguese and Gallegos — Portuguese pride — The fidalgos, or no- 
 Ijility, a contemptible race — Anecdote of a Portuguese physician — Portuguese 
 pride and veracity— High character of the Portuguese merchants— Family 
 
CONTENTS. xxiii 
 
 affection — Domestic economy — Private feeds in Portuguese houses Other 
 
 comforts and conveniences described — Lisbon meat — Heat of the climate 
 
 Dogs seen in the Hua San Prancisco — Other daily sights — Irish landlady 
 
 Arrangement of the interior of a Portuguese house — Want of books Cross 
 
 on the wall of the Franciscan convent — The Jews — Bad state of the police 
 
 Streets of Lisbon steep — S6ge, or cabriolet — Vignette, S6ge drawn up a steep 
 ascent by mules 56 to 90 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 General statement of earthquakes— That of 1765 described — The infamous 
 conduct of the priesthood — Foreign aid — The energetic measures of Marquess 
 Pombal — Restoration of the city of Lisbon — Olyssipolis — Description of the 
 three hills on which Lisbon is built — Some account of its buildings — The 
 Estrella Convent and chapel — The Campo do Ourique — The Protestant 
 cemetery — Monastery of San Bento — Praja do Ropio — The Ouro, Augusta, 
 and da Prata streets — Prapa do Commercio — Noble quays on the banks of 
 the Tagus — Law offices, courts of judicature, and th,e national library — Three 
 other libraries — The Academy of Sciences — Statue of Joseph I. — Portuguese 
 masonry and architecture — East India and Custom-houses, and Exchange — 
 Padres das pedras — Square of the Rofio — Building of the Inquisition — Prap a 
 da Alegria, da Figueira, and de San Paulo — Fish-market — Cais Sodr6 — The 
 arsenal and dock-yard — Naval school — Elevated column — National bank — 
 Atmosphere — Climate — Incidental disorders — Portuguese manners and dress 
 — Census of the population of Lisbon — The Cathedral — Saint Roque — Speci- 
 mens of mosaic — Castle of Lisbon — Portuguese soldiery — The prison of Limo- 
 eiro — The church dos Martyres — ^That of da Graya — The palace do Monteiro 
 Mor, now Correio geral — The oldest part of Lisbon described — Priestly 
 fiction of Nossa Senhora da Rocha — Vignette, Our Lady of the 
 Rock 91 to 121 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 The road from Lisbon to Cintra — Elevated range of Serra — The quintas — 
 Costa's hotel — Droll bolieiro — Aqueduct of Alcantara — Village of Bemfica 
 — Dominican convent — ^The palace of Ramalhao — Arrival at Cintra — Its 
 lovely appearance — Palace of Dom Emmanuel — The quinta of Sitiaes, Penha 
 Verde, and Montserrat — Valley of Colares; its orange and lemon groves, 
 orchards and vineyards — Convent of the Holy Cross of the Cintra rock — Fr. 
 Francisco da Circumcizao — The den of Honorius — View from the elevated 
 
xxiv CONTENTS. 
 
 range above the convent — The Convent of the Penha — The Serra described 
 — The mountains of Cintra— The strange beauties of Cintra described by 
 Southey — The Castello dos Mouros — Climate and town of Cintra, Cascaes, 
 Oeiras, Carcavellos, and Bellas^ — The gloomy palace of Queluz — Collars and 
 head-stalls of mules — Vignette, Peasant and macho resting . 122 to 141 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 Political disturbances in Portugal — Judicious management of the British 
 ambassador, and commander in chief — Illustration of the bad system of public 
 administration in Portugal — Historical remarks — Sebastian, Cardinal Henry, 
 and the Spanish usurpers, alike injurious to the interests of Portugal — The 
 Hevolution of 1640 too late to benefit the country — Disasters experienced by 
 the nation under the Braganza dynasty — Causes of decrease in the population 
 — Impolitic treatment of the Jews — The interests of Brasil and Portugal con- 
 sidered — Turkey and Portugal compared — Portuguese currency — Plates of 
 the various coins — Value of Brasilian commerce — Paper issues — Mixed sys- 
 tem of metal and paper currency — Substraction of the precious metals — De- 
 basement of the coin of the realm — French metal substituted for the Portu- 
 guese — Spanish dollars next supply its place — Consequences of the general 
 peace in Europe, and the loss of Brasil to the trade and commerce of Portugal 
 — Continued disappearance of the metallic currency — The various internal 
 resources still remaining to Portugal considered — Establishment of the national 
 bank — Collectors of taxes — Prospects of ultimate renovation — Favourable 
 position of Portugal — History of the Constitutional charter — Abdication of 
 the Portuguese «trown by Don Pedro in favour of his daughter — The condi- 
 tions — Provisions of the charter — Don Miguel appointed lieutenant of the 
 kingdom — Vignette, Corcunda, or absolutist .... 142 to 168 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 The paquete Lusitano — Arrival off San Joao da Foz — Bar of the Douro 
 
 The vessel anchors between Porto and Villa Nova — Scenery of the Douro 
 
 Porta dos Banhos — Hospitality of Porto — Frey Domingos — Funeral solem- 
 nities — July and August unfavourable season at Porto — Our host's residence 
 and garden — Economy of the houses at Porto — Mode of living — State of the 
 
 churches — The holy sacrament — Factory church — State of prison discipline 
 
 Salary of the judges small — Portuguese equity — Corn smuggled in from Spain 
 
 — Wine exported without payment of duty — The British factory — Exchange 
 
 Character of Sir Thomas Stubbs^-Recent events — Faction of ins and of outs 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XXV 
 
 British chaplain and hospital — The convents and nunneries of Porto described 
 — The church of Nossa Senhora da Lapa, and the Cedo-feita — Interesting 
 inscription — The church of Senhor de Matozinhos — Town of Lepa — O Bom 
 Jesus de Boupas — Ceremonies at Whitsuntide — Degrading effects of confes- 
 sion — The fabled cross — The Papists' adoration of rags and rotten bones truly- 
 represented — Church of the Clerigos, and S. Barbara's lamp — San Bento — 
 Description of Porto, and of the Douro — Superstitions — Swarms of idle 
 monks — Feast of Nossa Senhora da Rocha — Religion — Cathedral — Bishop's 
 palace — State of the diocese — Various and important reforms contemplated by 
 the Cortes in every department of the state — Suggestions on the subject — Pa- 
 pal decrees — Their consequences — Imperative duty of the clergy of Portugal 
 — The system of Purgatory animadverted upon — The constrained celibacy of 
 the clergy denounced — Vignette, Ex votos, as seen suspended in the churches 
 of Portugal 169 to 204 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 Public promenades at Porto — Churches — Division of Porto into parishes — 
 Public buildings — The Theatre of San Joao — The drama — Carriages drawn 
 by oxen to the Opera-house — Portuguese barbers, or rather, barbarians — 
 General clumsiness of Portuguese artisans and artificers — Universal industry 
 — Trade and manufactures — The quays — Commerce of Porto — Exports and 
 imports — Tho corn trade — Glass and porcelain establishments — Price of the 
 necessaries of life — Fishing-boats — Cheap house -keeping in Portugal and 
 Spanish Estremadura — Effects of heat — Accommodation in the estalagems — 
 The ancient distaff — ^Treatment of mules and horses — Muleteers — A liteira — 
 Labouring classes — Books — Fountains — Passports — Odious restraints — Po- 
 lished civility of the Portuguese peasantry — Their ornaments — Absentee 
 system — The establishment of the Misericordia by the Loyos belonging to the 
 order of St. John — Its purposes defeated and its funds absorbed by the misera- 
 ble fidalguia — ^The labourers in the quarries on the banks of the Douro — 
 Further account of the streets, shops, public buildings, and fountains, in Porto 
 — Conventual building, gardens, and grounds, of the Augustine monks — 
 Views thence — Villa Nova — Hill of Gaya — Union of the myrtle and vine — 
 Fruit trees — Garden of a quinta at Avintes — Procession of monks — Fiscal 
 right of cutting down timber — Sporting — Game — Bridge of boats over the 
 Douro — Purgatorial altars — Villa Nova storehouses — ^The principal events 
 preceding and following the possession of Porto by the French — Vignette, 
 Wine and traffic boat on the Douro . ... 205 to 236 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 Liteira and condessa — Dress of the peasantry — The cajado and albardas 
 described — The delights of Portuguese roads— Injuries received in the com- 
 missariat department — Arrival at Villa Nova — Route to Villa do Conde — 
 Threshing floors — Vines —Proverbial industry of the peasantry — Population 
 of ancient and modern Portugal compared — Productiveness of the Minho 
 province — Misery, ignorance, and prejudices of the agriculturists — Indian 
 corn — Flax — Kidney-beans — The system of agriculture as stated by Link — 
 Loyalty and worth of the peasantry — Proofs cited — Vestiges of the feudal sys- 
 tem — System of landlord and tenant — Feudal imposts — Prazos, or leases — 
 Descent into Azurar — The Rio Ave — Villa do Conde — Nunnery of Santa 
 Clara — The aqueduct — Reception at Fonte Boa by its hospitable abbade — 
 Scenery described — The Monte de Francada — Soult's address to his soldiers — 
 The province of the fertile Minho fully described — ^The true policy of the 
 British cabinet veith respect to Portugal stated — The Cavado crossed — Barca 
 do Lago — Rugged and desert scenery — Calejeiros — Their endurance of fatigue 
 — Alpine scenery near the Ponte de Castella de Neyva — Long bridge —Town 
 of Vianna — Fort St. Jago — Benedictine convent — The Dois Amigos — 
 Defect in passport — The route from Vianna by Caminha to the fortress of 
 Valenpa — Peasants collecting " argaf a " — Fertility of the soil — Road-side 
 chapels — A farmer's boast — Retreat of Silveira — Caminha described — Lofty 
 mountains of Galicia — Cross the Couro — The lovely banks of the Minho — 
 Villa Nova da Cerveira — Arrival at Valenya — Vignette, Two monks of 
 Tuy 237 to 263 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 Valenpa founded by Viriatus, the " William Tell," of Lusitania— The 
 Fortress— Views thence— Visit to Tuy, in Galicia, on the right bank of the 
 Minho— Contrast between the Spanish and Portuguese troops— Tuy described 
 — F^te of St. Laurence — Benedictine and Franciscan monk — Evening party 
 at the governor's of Valenja— Opinions about the Portuguese military — 
 Ascent of the Serra de la Bruga— View from the summit— Peasant— Galician 
 labourer murdered — Descent from the Serra— Ancient and modern history of 
 Ponte de Lima— Harvest-home kept at the Estalagem — Nocturnal enjoyments 
 —The plagues of Portuguese chairs— Sleepless sorrows of the travellers- 
 Thoughts of England — Vignette, Crossing the Serra de la Bruga in a 
 Liteira 264 to 277 
 
CONTENTS. xxvii 
 
 LETTER XI. 
 
 Ponte do Prado — Description of the Benedictine monastery of Tibaens — 
 Scenery of the valley of Cavado — Inconsiderate charity of the monks — 
 Secretary Manoel — Prints, pictures, billiard-room and library of the monks — 
 Interior of the building — General character of the conventual structures in 
 Portugal — The Dois Amigos in the Campo Santa Anna, at Braga — Ancient 
 and modern history of the town — The cathedral, bishop's palate, and prison 
 described — Chapel of St. Bento — Image of Senhor Jesus do Monte — Situation 
 of Braga. — Heat — The market — Manufactories — Apothecary and physician — 
 The Serra de Gerez seen — Portuguese cart — Its probable origin— Description 
 by Link of the Serra de Gerez — The sanctuary of Senhor Jesus do Monte to 
 the east of Braga minutely described — The Cima de Valpeira — Convent of 
 Barratojo — Cruelties committed by banditti — Precipitous descent to Guima- 
 raens — Anniversary of the defeat of the Spaniards at Aljubarrota — Our Lady 
 of Oliveira — Campo Torraia — Houses and population — Early and modern 
 history of the town — Productiveness of the surrounding country — Cheap prices 
 — The cathedral, and spoils taken from the Spaniards — Sacred vessels of 
 great value preserved in the sacristy — Eire-works — Scenery beheld from the 
 heights above Guiraaraens — The Serra de Santa Catharina — ^The wild Venda 
 de Serra — Valley of Pombeiro — Valleys opening on Lixa — The landscape — 
 Amarante — Described by Link — Vignette, The American Aloe 278 to 305 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 Modern appearance of Amarante — Cross the Tamega — Positions taken up 
 by the troops of Soult — Ground occupied by the rebel forces of Silveira — 
 Wine Company's new road — The Marquess Angeja's position in defence of 
 the town — Miserable estalagem — Dull streets — Ludicrous procession — Route 
 across the Serra do Marao to Villa Real avoided — Mountain-pass — Link's 
 route by Ovelha, and Campeao to Pezo da Regoa — Deficiency of good 
 roads — Modes of carriage in Portugal — The principal trading towns and the 
 largest fairs holden enumerated — Communications between Porto and Lisbon 
 by land and otherwise, noticed — The Quintella dos Padroens do Alta 
 Teixeira— Surrounding scenery — Comparative state of the atmosphere on the 
 Marao, and in the valleys— Silveira's treatment of our host at Teixeira— 
 Road down to Mezao Frio— Appearance of the Douro— Pezo da Regoa— 
 A blacksmith's accommodations exchanged for the hospitalities of Sr. L. H. 
 da Silva Pereira— Senhor Gomes— Link's account of the town— The O Alto 
 
xxviii CONTENTS. 
 
 Douro district — Its limits — Pezo in the centre of the wine-country — Culti- 
 vation of the vines — Habits of the people — Price of provisions — Chapel of 
 St. Peter — The hill of Mourinho — The Marao — Poiares and vineyards above 
 the Corgo — Cross the Douro to Lamego — The two villages called Portella — 
 Silveira's excesses herein and at Lamego — Early history of this town — The 
 celebrated convocation of the Cortes — Described by Link — Ruins of a Moorish 
 castle described— Modern appearance of the town — Cima Avoens — View of 
 Villa Real — Nature of the soil — The Tras os Montes described — Its principal 
 towns, population, productions, early and modem history, noticed — The prin- 
 cipal serras of Portugal enumerated and described — Link's observations on the 
 cultivation of the vine noticed — Institution by the Marquess Pombal, 1766, of 
 " the Royal Company of the culture of the vine in the Upper Douro" — Its 
 object, use, and abuse, minutely considered — The pamphlets of Mr. Fleet- 
 wood Williams, of Mr. Warre, and a Portuguese writer quoted in the dis- 
 cussion of the utility of this company and of the management of the wine-trade 
 — Opinion of Dr. Henderson on the subject — Prices of wine in Portugal — 
 Question of British duties considered — Decrees of the company as to the 
 mixture of wines — Prohibitory laws stated by a Portuguese writer — Link 
 quoted on the varieties of the vine — Culture of the vine in the Upper Douro — 
 " Lagars" or vine-presses — Season of the vintage — Mode of treading the grapes 
 — Subsequent management — Want of subterranean cellars at Villa Nova- 
 Consequent injury to the wines — The vineyards of Coimbra — The quality of 
 their productions — Murphy's and Dr. Henderson's opinion with respect to 
 other Portuguese wines — The process of fermentation the great point in the 
 management of wines — Vignette, Peasant playing on a guitar . 306 to 338 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 Tour down the Douro from Pezo da Regoa to Porto — Description of boat 
 
 and crew — Wine-raft and wine-boats — The vine-clad hill of Cambraes 
 
 Cottages of the vine-dressers— Mineral springs — Vine-terraces and fruit-trees 
 — Vine-fences — Peripatetic thatch — Brandy distillery at Moledo — Company's 
 guard at Bernaldo — Rocky scenery of the Douro — The Falls or Rapids of 
 the Douro — Conde da Taipa's night-voyage down the Douro for the relief of 
 
 Porto — Nightingales, turtledoves, the Flora and Sylvan scenery of the Douro 
 
 Limits of the wine-district at Bercanze — Terrific rock-scenery — The course of 
 the Douro — Nossa Senhora de Boa Viagem — Barceiros — Wolves and wild 
 boars— The Cima Musquetella described — Rapid of Caneida — Improvements 
 in the navigation of the river— Annual losses of boats and lives — Fall of the 
 Ponte do Cadao —Bathing huts— Civility of boatmen— Viraiero Native 
 
CONTENTS. xxix 
 
 melody — Sheep-cheeses — Quinta of Ribeira — Convent of St. Benedict — 
 Fisheries — Contraband brandies — Abarcal, embouchure of the Tamega and 
 Albuzalema — Night scene on the sand-bank of Carvoeiro — Quinta da Gra- 
 ceira — Vallongo coal mines — Importations of coal — The ancient and modern 
 condition of the mines in Portugal stated — '1 own of Avintes — New line of 
 Quay — -Porto dos Banhos — Further description of Porto — Link's remarks on 
 its first appearance — Portus Cale — Funeral procession — Institution and pro- 
 gress of the Constitutional Government — Civil commotions — The imperial 
 charter — Arrangement of the Portuguese succession by Don Pedro — Factious 
 resistance of the absolutists— Don Miguel proclaimed rightful heir to the 
 crown — The question of the charter considered — Open violence of the anti- 
 constitutional party — Supported by Spain — " British succours supplied 
 against foreign aggression" — Positions taken up by the British troops; and 
 final retirement upon Lisbon preparatory to their return to England— Vignette 
 — " Barque drawn by oxen up a rapid of the Douro" . . 339 to 372 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 Roads from Porto to Coimbra — The quinta of Melladas — Interesting recol- 
 lections of the Duke of Wellington — Pine forests — Description of Ovar — 
 Female and ecclesiastical dispensers of medicine — Scene on the Lagune 
 crossed between Ovar and Aveiro — Thirsty monks begging salt for the honour 
 of St. Peter — Productions of the country about Aveiro — Quays on the banks 
 of the Vouga — Link's account of this town — Recent improvements effected 
 at the entrance into the port — Crowds of peasants — Ffete of St. Bartholomew 
 — Canal boats — Costumes — Road to Palhaja — Dominican convent — The pea- 
 sant's evening hymn to Nossa Senhora — Scene in the village of Quintana — 
 Observation on the Romish ceremonies — Muleteers' fare, and beds — Peito de 
 rola, an esteemed delicacy — Advice to summer travellers in Portugal — Abun- 
 dance of fruits — Vendas Novas — Ferrugem destroying the olive-trees — Inter- 
 mitting fevers — Serra de Alcoba — Portuguese guide — The height of Busaco 
 — Colonel Jones's N arrative of the battle and consequent military movements 
 quoted — The principal cities of the Beira enumerated — Their ancient and 
 modern history briefly given — Fortified towns, and strong places noticed — 
 Culminant points of the Serra da Estrella mentioned — Link's account of it 
 quoted — Scenery in the neighbourhood of Coimbra — Its reiriote and more 
 modern history — The present appearance of the town — Link's description of 
 the Mondego — The Quinta das Lagrimas — Fair at Coimbra-^The comforts 
 of the estalagem described — History of the university of Coimbra, its various 
 institutions and establishments, with notes of the several changes introduced at 
 
XXX CONTENTS. 
 
 different periods into the academic system, from the epoch of its foundation by 
 King Denis, 1308, to the present time — Link's remarks introduced — Present 
 system of academical studies, &c.— Bed of the Mondego — Its violent course 
 — Mickle's translation of Camoens' description of the fate of Ignes de Castro 
 —Tragedies founded on the subject — Condeixa — Campo do Mondego — 
 Monte Mor and Moorish castle— Anecdotes — Vignette, Portuguese Foun- 
 tain 373 to 411 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 Figueira da Foz do Mondego — Exports — Warehouse— Appearance of the 
 town — Productions of the beira — Different modes of cultivating the vines — 
 — Wheat — Classification of the Portuguese wines — Bathing — Buarcos — 
 Coal-mine— Moorish castle — Loss of a West- India fleet — Curious boats — 
 Sardinha fishery — Fishing company — The value of the Portuguese fisheries 
 considered — History — Price of fruits at Figueira — Habits at the dinner-table 
 — A tea-party joined by a frowning nun — The virgin thorn described — Cross 
 the Mondego — Colonel Jones's military narrative quoted — Estremadura — 
 Estalagem at Guias — View of the old castle of Leiria at sun-set — -History 
 of the town — Roman inscriptions — Murphy's account — Curious arch of an 
 old chapel described — The cathedral — Description of the town and neigh- 
 bouring valleys — Prices raised by presence of British troops — Miseries at the 
 inn — Tomb of a British officer — Forest of pines planted by King Denis — 
 Glass manufactory — The olive tree — Link's account — Bad management in the 
 expression of the oil — -The Dominican abbey in the valley of Batalha described 
 — -Road from Batalha to Alcobaja — Serrade Lousao — Field of Aljubarrota — 
 Camoens' description of the flight of the Spaniards — Latin inscription re- 
 cording the heroism of Brites de Almeida — Alcobafa — Surrounding country 
 described — The convent, church, and fraternity — Latin inscription by Mr. 
 Canning in a work presented by him to the Library of the convent — 
 Vignette, Arch at Leiria . . ..... 412 to 450 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 Road from Alcobapa to Caldas da Raiuha — Quinta of the convent — 
 Moorish castle at Alfizeirao — San Martinho — Arrival at Caldas by moonlight 
 
 — Enumeration of hot and mineral springs in Portugal — Account of Caldas 
 
 Obidos described — The village of Rolifo — Col. Jones's narrative of the battle, 
 and that which took place at Vimieiro under Sir A. Wellesley — Policy of the 
 Convention of Cintra considered — The Casa Nova — Elevated plains — Torres 
 
CONTENTS. xxxi 
 
 Vedras, Maceira and Alhandra — Portuguese bee-liivcs — The Rio Sizandro — 
 The turres veteres of the Romans — Aqueduct — Ancient fortress —The lines of 
 Torres Vedras occupied by the British described — Massena's movement after 
 the battle of Busaco — Sobral — Zibriera — Thomar — Intrenched camp at San- 
 tarem — Punhete — Rio Mayor and Azinheira — Cartaxo — Alcoentre — Azam- 
 buja — Barcos and Chamusca — Abrantes — Massena's disastrous retreat into 
 Spain — Castanheira and Villa Franca — Second line of fortified heights — 
 Road from Torres Vedras to Mafra — Scenery — British regiments at Mafra, 
 Belem, Lisbon, and its neighbourhood — Apprehensions of the government — 
 Policy of our ambassador and commander-in-chief — History and descrip- 
 tion of the palace and buildings at Mafra — -Asceticism of the Arrabidos 
 monks — The complete rosary described — Vignette, Franciscan discipline 
 Cross, &c 451 to 469 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 Distant view of the Serra de Cintra — Route from Mafra to Lisbon — 
 Abrunheira — Pinheiro — Cabeya de Montachique — Loures — Carnide— Lu- 
 miar — Campo-grande — Campo pequeno — View of the Aqueduct, city of 
 Lisbon, with the dome of the Estrella Convent to the south-west — Autumnal 
 atmosphere — Lusitanian storms — San Antonio — Political storms — Intrigues of 
 the Camarilla — The hymn of freedom inhibited — The Lisbon bank tottering 
 to its fall — Don Miguel, the Princess-regent, and the Queen-mother — Their 
 secret intentions conjectured — N. S. da Rocha — Votive tablet — The quarter of 
 Belem described — Monastery of St. Jeronymo — N. S. de Ajuda — Park and 
 Royal chaces — Church and monastery of Belem — The equipment of G ama's 
 fleet for the discovery of India — His successful enterprise narrated — Henry 
 Duke of Viseu — Quay and wharfs contiguous to Belem tower — Murphy 
 quoted — Manuscript bible restored by Louis XVIII. — Improvements effected 
 in navigation and commerce by the great Henry — A brief sketch of his life 
 and character — ^The religious motives and feelings of this illustrious prince — 
 Franpois Xa;vier, the apostle of India — His character defended — Valour of 
 the Portuguese in the East — The celebrated Almeida, Albuquerque, and John 
 de Castro — Secular views of the See of Rome prosecuted in India — Eccle- 
 siastical wealth — Ambition, avarice, tyranny, and consummate skill of the 
 Jesuits — Inquisition of Goa — The real object of its establishment — Grand 
 Inquisitors-Missionaries armed for plunder and murder by the Jesuits — De- 
 cline and final dismemberment of the Portuguese empire in the East — The 
 advantages derived to Europe generally from the enterprising genius of the 
 great Prince Henry — The poet Camoens' life and misfortunes — Place of in- 
 
XXXll 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 terment at Lisbon— The Ajuda palace— Its origin— The palaces of Salvaterra 
 and Necessidades — The king's riding-house and stables — Polar bear — Mu- 
 seum—Botanic garden — Two ancient statues — The Aveiro column — Church 
 of N. S do Livramento— Convent of Bom Successo— Nuns and sweetmeats — 
 Fat of the Fidalguia — Irish convent — San Domingos — Patriarchal church 
 and former treasures — Religious processions — Privileges procured for British 
 subjects by Oliver Cromwell — Licensed beggars — Hospital of Lisbon — 
 Foundling hospitals— The Casa Pia— Bells and Palhitos— System of educa- 
 tion — Habits of married women — Feline attachment to the soil of Portuguese 
 Jews — Employment of the term Saudade — Observations on the Castilian, 
 Portuguese, and other European languages — Link's opinion quoted — Review 
 of the literature, arts, and sciences of Portugal projected — The Chevalier de 
 Almeida Garrett— Books and studies — Balbi's tables of weights and measures 
 — Murphy's measurements of the Lisbon aqueduct — Portuguese orders of 
 knighthood — N. S. da Arrabida— Southey's description — Projected tour to 
 Moita, Palmela, Setuval, Azeitao— Early history, and present state of Se- 
 tuval — Caetobriga — Lusitania — Province of the Alemtejo — Its productions — 
 Evora — Its early history — Liberalitas Julia — Ancient buildings — Cromleh 
 near Arrayolos— Another described by Hautefort— 'Borlase's opinions quoted 
 on the purport of this Celtic monument — Etymology of cromleh- — A sepulchral 
 monument — Estremoz, Monte Mor, Portalegre, Manvao, Crato, Campo 
 Mayor, Elvas and La Lippe, Juramenha, Villa- Vicoza, Aviz, Serpa, Vidi- 
 gueira, Ourique and Mertola briefly noticed — Road from Lisbon into Spain 
 — Beja — Early and modern history — Its Roman remains noticed by Murphy 
 — The kingdom of Algarve described — Serras de Monchique and do Cal- 
 deirao— Their trending line — Serra de Foia — Link's observations — History of 
 the province — Original application of the name Algarves — Professor Dau- 
 beny, Dolomieu, and Bowditch quoted on the mineralogy and geology of 
 Portugal, and on the volcanic districts — Link's account of Sabugueiro, Mal- 
 hao da Serra, and the Lagoa Escura, and Comprida — ^The volcanic rocks 
 near Lisbon examined by Dr. Daubeny — His opinion on the utility of vol- 
 canoes — Effects of the earthquake of 1755 in the Algarve, Alemtejo, and 
 Estremadura — Productions and commerce of the Algarve described by Link 
 — Inhabitants — ^The best mariners — Sagres, Lagos — The Cabo de San Vi- 
 cente — Villa Nova, Silves, Louie, Faro — Ilha dos Caes and Tavira noticed 
 — Castro Marim and Villa Real — ^The Spanish town of Ayamonte — The 
 Guadiana described by Byron — The source of this river and its course — 
 The Tagus — British packets — Vignette, Celtic tomb at Arrayolos 470 to 514 
 
CONTENTS. xxxiii 
 
 FIRST SUPPLEMENTARY LETTER. 
 
 Portuguese documents supplied by James Warre, Esq. — State of the 
 finances — Receipt and expenditure in 1827 — Estimate of the receipt and 
 expenditure for 1828 — The debt of Portugal — Revenue and expense of 
 the Portuguese colonies, 1828 — Amount of the effective force of the Por- 
 tuguese army in the autumn of 1827— Vignette, Torre de San Juliao da 
 Barra 515 to 524 
 
 SECOND SUPPLEMENTARY LETTER. 
 
 PORTUGUESE LITERATUKE, &C. 
 
 Distinct character of the Portuguese and Castilian languages — Their origin 
 stated — Mr. Denis's r^sum^ — Reviewer — Modifications undergone by the 
 Latin original— Quotation from an article in the Quarterly Review on this 
 question — Preface to the Parnaso Lusitano, containing observations on the 
 same subject — Opinion of the Chevalier de Almeida Garrett — Early vestiges 
 of Portuguese literature — Egas Moniz — Fr. Bernardo de Brito — Popular 
 songs called " Chacras" — Bernal and Violante, a specimen — Ballad given 
 with Adozinda — Their priority of date asserted — Rude state of the Portuguese 
 language — Promise of future capabilities — La Harpe's declared opinion — The 
 Amadis de Gaul ofVasco de Lobeira — Improvements gradually effected in 
 the language — Historians, poets, and dramatic writers in the reign of Em- 
 manuel — Azurara — F. Lopes — Rezende and Barros — Bernardim Ribeiro — 
 Gil Vicente, author of dramatic pieces — Rarity of copies of his works — Pro- 
 gress of the sciences in Portugal afiSrmed — Pedro Nunes, a famous mathe- 
 matician — Magalhaes — Henry's academy and observatory — Art of painting 
 promoted — Specimens alluded to — Belles lettres under John III. — Coimbra 
 founded by Denis, flourishing — Further improvements effected in the Por- 
 tuguese language — Camoens predecessor of Tasso — Mr. Mickle's, Mr. Mus- 
 grave's, and Lord Strangford's translations of the Lusitanian bard — Mr. Adam- 
 son's interesting memoirs of Camoens — Portugal the birth-place of romance 
 — The Sophonisba of Trissino — The Castro of Antonio Ferreira — The Lusiad 
 compared to the Italia Liberata — Musgraye's translation of the Castro — The 
 comedy of O Cioso, by A. Ferreira — His master Sa de Miranda — Effect on 
 Portuguese poetry by their united talents — The Canjoes of Camoens contain 
 Port. C 
 
xxxiv CONTENTS, 
 
 specimens of the olden style of romantic song — Jeronirao Cortereal — His epic 
 poem, the siege of Diu — That of the love and misfortunes of Sepulveda and 
 her husband — Examination of this last poem— Diogo Bernardes— His Idyls 
 and Eclogues — Odes and epigrams of Caminha — Trissino's, Ariosto's, and 
 Dante's attempts at epic poetry — This style triumphantly achieved by the 
 immortal Camoens in his Lusiad — The spirit of adventure awakened in the 
 nation animated the poet, and thus gave Gama his Homer — Date of the 
 poem— Its action — Various opinions and judgments passed upon the Lusiad — 
 The checquered life of Camoens— Neglect experienced — The fame of the 
 patriot and the poet eternal — Monachism, Jesuitism, the Inquisition, and the 
 usurpation of the Castilians combine to repress the prosperity of Portugal — 
 Neglect of the muses, the arts, and sciences— Prostituted povrers of the poet 
 and historian — The epic poem of Quebedo enlightens the gloom — ^The Malaca 
 Conquistada of Menezes— Epic poem of G. P. da Costa — His De Manu Regia 
 — A celebrated lawyer and bad poet — HisLisboa edificada— Faria e Souza — 
 The romance of J. de Monte Mayor, Diana — Bernardo de Brito's Monar- 
 chia Lusitana — Memoirs of the Archbishop of Braga by Fr. Luiz de Souza 
 — Chronicles, poems, legal and mathematica,l treatises, and voyages, abound- 
 ing at this period — Numerous authors of great reputation necessarily omitted 
 from this brief and general sketch — The electric shock given by the Porr 
 tuguese revolution of 1640 to literature — The celebrated Vieyra — His cha- 
 racter — That of his works fully given in Mr. Southey's History of Brasil — 
 Mr. Garrett's opinion of Vieyra's and Andrada's style, and its effect on 
 Portuguese literature — Andrada's Life of John de Castro — A model of the 
 language — Amidst a galaxy of poets, the Conde da Eryceira — Violante do 
 Ceo — Her impassioned poems — The baneful influence of the Jesuits on the 
 literary taste of these times — Joseph I. ascends the throne — The Jesuits crushed 
 by Pombal — The arts, the sciences, belles lettres, &c. revive — The philologian 
 Freire — His powers of mind — His splendid biography of the great Henry — 
 Antonio Pereira's translation of the Bible — His Tentativa Theologica— Gar- 
 fao the Portuguese Horace — Renovator of the Portuguese style of poetry — 
 Founds the Arcadia — Diniz — .His pastoral and other poems — His celebrated 
 O Hysope — Compared with other poems of the same class — The two Gomes — 
 Quita — His pastoral poems and idyls — Gonzaga da Costa — His Marilia de 
 Dirceu — Queen Maria 1. ascends the throne — Academy of sciences created^ — 
 National literature, &c. protected — Barbarism and corruption introduced by 
 the friars — The flourishing state of literature under Emmanuel and John III. 
 — P. J. de Mello, a celebrated lawyer — A. R. dos Sanctos another distin- 
 guished lawyer of that day — Theodoro d'Almeida — His romance and philo- 
 sophical recreations — Ribeiro Sanches, celebrated physician— Driven by the 
 
CONTENTS. XXXV 
 
 Inquisition into Russia — Josfe Anastacio da Cunho, the victim of the cruelty 
 of the Inquisition — Celebrated mathematician and poet — The physician Cam- 
 pos — His Travels of Altina — The tvro ecclesiastics Fr. J. da Coraf ao de Jesus 
 and another — Their peculiar merits — The Bishop, D. A. da Sagradia Familia 
 — The surname da Silva G-arrett — an amiable and learned prelate— His life, 
 and vcritings — His sermons compared with those of Vieyra and Dr. Johnson — 
 His Portuguese dictionary — Father Caldas a poet— The liberality of his reli- 
 gious notions — His poems printed at Paris — His imitations of the royal 
 Psalmist — Torres also an imitator of scriptural sublimity — His canzonets — 
 Nicolau Tolentino — His satyrs, epigrams, and other poems — Mr. Garrett's 
 description of them — Two celebrated modern poets, Bocage and F. Manoel — 
 Their writings examined — The Parnaso Lusitano again referred to — Com- 
 mencement of the 19th century — ^The enterprising genius and literary character 
 of the Portuguese, exhibiting their force under an accumulation of difficulties 
 — Memoirs and philosophical transactions published by the Boyal Academy 
 at Lisbon, with numerous other works of general interest— Baron Praya's 
 history of mathematics — Brotero, the botanist — His Flora Lusitana — His 
 purity of style — The celebrated Abbe Correa da Serra, a patriot, philosopher, 
 and botanist — A member of the French Institute — Visits America — His 
 work on botany in English — Charge d'affaires at Washington — Deputy for 
 Lisbon in the Cortes of 1820 — His mournful fate disgraceful to the nation — 
 The Annaes das sclencias e das artes of Doctor Constancio — A learned natu- 
 ralist and political economist — Chemistry pursued in Portugal — Professorship 
 at Coimbra, and chemical lectures given at Lisbon — The published lectures of 
 Mouzinho d'Alboquerque — The Countes Oyenhausen — Her publications — 
 Varied acquirements, and freedom, from academic pedantry — The essay on 
 psycology by S. Pinheiro, published at Paris and at Lisbon — Treatise on the 
 laws of England, and the Cartas de Americus of Dr. Moira — F. de St. Luis, 
 Bishop of Coimbra — His life and character — His essay on the antiquities of 
 Batalha and Portuguese Synonyms — His several literary dissertations — 
 Persecuted by Don Miguel's government — Banished to the mountains of the 
 Alemtejo— The Heroides of Castilho, a blind poet — The Onerite, and the A 
 Meditafao of P. J. A. de Macedo— The Passeio of da Costa e Silva— Its 
 merits considered — ^The Chevalier de Almeida Garrett's works reviewed— 
 His O Retrato de Ve7ius— Short account of that author's personal history — 
 His tragedy of Cato— Opinions entertained of its merits— His poem, entitled 
 O Camoes— His D. Branca, or A Conquista do Algarve, a poetical romance 
 —Editor of the public journals at Lisbon, entitled O Portuguez and Chronista 
 —Incorruptible by the agents of the apostolical government— The Chevalier 
 escapes from prison, and takes refuge in London, where he publishes a little 
 
XXXVl 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 poem entitled Adozinda — His restoration of the early popular ballads of the 
 Portuguese nation — The poetical taste of the Portuguese corrupted — The 
 national prospects of Portugal brighten amid the gfoom of monachism and 
 priestly despotism— Vignette, The Sandwich packet at anchor in Falmouth 
 harbour ....... 525 to 564 
 
 BOATS SEEN ON THE DOL'IiO. 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR THE ARRANGEMENT OF THE 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 1. Frontispiece : the University of Coimbra, (description at pp. 
 
 389 — 401.) To face the engraved title-page. 
 
 2. Map of Portugal Page 1 
 
 3. View of Belem Castle on the Tagus 11 
 
 4. The three Modinhas and Constitutional Hymn . ... 60 
 
 5. View of Cintra, Castello dos Mouros, and Penha Convent . . 128 
 
 6. Palace of Dom Emmanuel and Town of Cintra . . ' . .130 
 
 7. The Cork Convent near Colares . 1 35 
 
 8. Two plates of the gold, silver, and copper currency of Portugal . 1 56 
 
 9. View up the Douro, looking towards Porto 172 
 
 10. Estalagem, or Portuguese Inn 216 
 
 11. View of Porto and Villa Nova from the Serra Convent . . 228 
 
 12. The Aloe in blossom ; Myrtle-iree with pendent Vine . . . 236 
 
 13. Travellers in Portugal ; Liteira and Sumpter-niule . . . 240 
 
 14. A road-side Altar, and Travellers resting ..... 261 
 
 15. View from the Fortress of Valenya, (founded by the Lusitanian 
 
 Viriatus,) across the Minho, to Tuy in Galicia .... 265 
 
 16. Night scene at Ponte de Lima 276 
 
 17. Peasant and family of the Minho and Douro Province . . . 290 
 
 18. View across the Douro from Pezo da Regoa . , . .318 
 
 19. View down the Douro towards the Hill of Gaya .... 357 
 
 20. Portrait of Donna Ignes de Castro 403 
 
 21. The Castle of Leiria 422 
 
 22. The Abbey of Batalha 433 
 
xxxviii ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 23. The extreme right of the Duke of Wellington's lines, resting at 
 
 Alhandra on the Tagus Page 459 
 
 24. View of Lisbon and the Aqueduct, from the high grounds to the 
 
 north of the city 497 
 
 2.5. Portrait of Luis de Caraoens, the Bard of Lusitania . . . 535 
 26. The Plates of Costumes to be placed together at the end of the 
 
 volume. 
 
VIGNETTES. 
 
 Letter 1, Off the Cabo da Koca . • • . . Page 12 
 
 2. Lamp in u«e in the north of Portugal .... 55 
 
 3. Sege, Mules and Driver, going up a steep ascent . . 90 
 
 4. Nossa Senhora da Conceifao, &c. &c. .... 121 
 
 5. Peasant and Macho resting ...... 141 
 
 6. Corcunda, or Absolutist ...,,.. 168 
 
 7. Ex-votos, as seen suspended in the Churches of Portugal . 204 
 
 8. Wine and Traffic Boats, on the Douro .... 236 
 
 9. Two Monks seen at Tuy in Spain ..... 263 
 
 10. Crossing the Serra de la Bruga in a Liteira . . . 277 
 
 11. The American Aloe 305 
 
 12. Peasant playing on a Guitar ...... 338 
 
 13. Barque drawn up a Hapid of the Douro .... 372 
 
 14. Fountain at Braga ........ 411 
 
 15. Arch of the western entrance to an old Chapel at Leiria , 450 
 
 16. Franciscan Discipline, Cross, &c 469 
 
 17. Cromlfeh, or Celtic Tomb, near Arrayolos . . ^ » 514 
 
 1 8. The Torre de San Juliao da Barra 524 
 
 19. The Sandwich Packet at anchor in Falmouth harbour . 564 
 
OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Page 49. Brazilian, read Brasilian. 
 
 52. The author does not mean to found these representations with respect to the Queeu- 
 mother and Don Miguel, on any other authority than that of public report, preva- 
 lent at Lisbon at the time of his visit. He feels it but just to caution his readers 
 against placing too implicit credit in rumours which, after all, might have their 
 origin in party spirit. 
 
 99. In the 9th line, for who, read whom. 
 
 103. Further, iea.d farther. 
 
 104. In 7 th line dele being, 
 
 214. Read, " in passing under the platform of the bridge of boats." 
 
 222. In 8th line, for St. Mark, read St. John the Evangelist. 
 
 237. for Valengay, read Valenfa. 
 
 243. In the quotation from link, that author's meaning about the different seed-times is 
 
 not clearly expressed. 
 247. In 2nd line, read " endurance o/ privation." 
 264. It is hardly necessary to remark that, in the 2d line of this letter, the word Roman 
 
 has been accidentally substituted for Lusilanian. 
 284. For the Campo Santo Anna, read Campo Santa Anna. 
 375. In 27th line, for bear, read bare. 
 
 385. In the quotation from Link, read Serra " do" Estrella. 
 389. For Montemor, read Monte Mot. 
 
 393. For desembargadors, read Desembargadores ; and for Juiz, read the plural " Juizes." 
 406. For Serras de Estrella, read again " da" Estrella. 
 416. For from Algarve, read "from the province" of Algarve. 
 421. For swingeing, read "swinging." 
 439. For Bellera, read •• Belem." 
 474. For votive table, read " votive tablet." 
 478i For Da Gama's, read" Gama's," the Portuguese never in such an instance employing 
 
 the article. 
 485. The statement made in this page, that no monument marked the place of Ca- 
 
 moens' sepulture, is incorrect. The monument erected to the memory of the 
 
 Poet in the church of Santa Anna, was destroyed at the time [of the great 
 
 earthquake in 1755. 
 513. For Catharine, " Catherine" may be read. 
 
41 
 
 -III 
 
 GajpniJia 
 
 
 
 i(Ml» 
 
 /■«„/'■,/' .'/'/.-J 
 
 P ^oiitt lit LiiJiT 
 
 ~ /' 
 
 >• M , 1 M _f 
 
 ^^ Ton qnM^doxicorvo 
 
 VAIXADOLID 
 
 f^ii [^ 
 
 Mediiia delC 
 
 'y ^ 
 
 'J(xze> ^-madeira' ) Biga 
 
 SALAMAN'CASi 
 
 «;:i.ii ■ 
 
 <^-.'- 
 
 g^ 1 nSarddJa 
 
 /Mai 
 iLynteiijf'rnveSto \pO> 
 
 ^r 
 
 teladHila^ M CiixdaARodrigo 
 
 
 LEVBOA^r 
 
 PlaserLcia ^ 
 Scoria 
 
 ^lfi'harraM^oiaI/,a^^^^^ 
 
 
 
 Talavera, SelaRe- 
 
 AVJKTB' TTiUn IF'UT 
 
 . h-rf'/fstjiirh 
 
 FOJt 
 
 POXTIJGAIL ItLlISTlRATBI} 
 
 1823 . 
 
 ",»a;f». 
 
PORTUGAL ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 Wilt thou be gone ? . . . . Adieu ! 
 
 Think on thy (friend), when thou haply seest 
 
 Some rare, note-worthy object in thy travel ; 
 
 Wish me partaker of thy happiness. 
 
 When thou dost meet good-hap ; and in thy danger. 
 
 If ever danger do environ thee, 
 
 Commend thy grievance to my holy prayers. 
 
 For I will be thy beadsman. 
 
 Two Gentlemen of VeroNa. 
 
 At Sea, 1827. 
 
 Such, at our parting, were your valedictory injunctions; and 
 in proof of the value attached to them, I hasten to answer 
 the friendly challenge. 
 
 We have already been three days at sea, on our way to the 
 shores of Lusitania, where numerous friends and acquaintances 
 are awaiting our arrival in that land of the sun. We promise 
 ouri^elves a rich harvest of amusement and information : for, 
 whether looking to the more recent events in Portuguese 
 history, or tracing its annals up to a remoter period of time. 
 Port. A 
 
2 POUTUGAL 
 
 the country is replete with interest to a traveller. The Stan- 
 mer packet, (in which we are crossing the Bay of Biscay, 
 
 And winds are rude in Biscay's sleepless bay ; 
 
 but certainly not in summer, for the Isis itself cannot be more 
 calm at this season,) is one of the most beautiful vessels in the 
 service; and its commander is a gentleman, as well as a 
 person of information, and of his well-regulated mind no 
 better proof can be given than the fine order and state of 
 discipline in which his men are kept. An hour since we all 
 assembled upon deck, and at the captain's request, it being 
 Sunday, the whole of the morning service of our church was 
 read to the ship's crew; — not a man was absent: not one 
 sailor, out of the whole number, but possessed his Bible and 
 Prayer-book. 
 
 Accustomed as we are to the decency and propriety of 
 demeanour of all ranks of people in our churches, we never 
 witnessed behaviour at prayers more decorous and solemn 
 than that of the men on deck this morning. The accidental 
 circumstance of the service of the day containing appropriate 
 verses in the Psalms, contributed to heighten the state of our 
 feelings upon the occasion, which were quite in unison with 
 the words of the royal poet, and in accordance likewise with 
 the serenity of the heavens, under whose cloudless blue 
 canopy we were speaking of the infinite greatness and dread 
 majesty of the Creator: — " The waters saw thee, O God! 
 the waters saw thee, and were afraid ; the depths also were 
 troubled." " Thy way is in the sea, and thy paths in the 
 great waters, and thy footsteps are not known." 
 
 The surface of the sea continued throughout the afternoon 
 as smooth as the landlocked water, in summer, between the 
 poast; of Hampshire and the Isle of Wight; and, as we took 
 our evening walk up and down the ship, we amused ourselves 
 with watching the sportive gambols of the numerous grampus 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 3 
 
 that appeared to be revelling, in high pastime, within a little 
 distance of us. 
 
 It is evident that we are now approaching Lisbon, for the 
 sailors are commencing their Monday's labour by preparing 
 the large awning, which is extended above the deck as a 
 screen from the ardent beams of the sun, while the vessel 
 remains in the Tagus. "We keep early hours at our meals, in 
 which no ground of complaint is left on account of a deficiency 
 as to the supply, or the quality of the dishes served on table. 
 In fact, there is a most laudable liberality displayed in all the 
 arrangements made to meet the passenger's wishes, and pro- 
 vide for his comfortable accommodation. The payment is 
 sixteen guineas from Falmouth to Lisbon; which includes 
 every expense, with the exception of a trifling gratuity to the 
 ship's steward, and a small acknowledgment to the sailors. 
 
 Early on the morning of the fifth day. Cape Ortegal, in the 
 Spanish province of Betanzos, (Galicia,) to the N. E. of Cape 
 Finisterre, became visible, at a distance of about sixty miles, 
 the high ground being masked by a light filmy cloud which 
 rested on its summit. All our interest was awakened as we 
 -approached the shores of the Spanish territory ; and a part of 
 Spain, too, so painfully dear to British recollections. A good 
 steady breeze would easily have carried us into Corunna 
 before night, had our course been bent thither. 
 
 The high line of lofty hiUs which run along the coast of Ga- 
 licia, at some distance from the shore, present a fine course of 
 bold and rugged summits. They may be considered as forming 
 a part of the continuation of the Pyrenees ; which, taking 
 behind St. Sebastian a south-westerly direction, form the 
 elevated range of mountains in the province of Asturias, and 
 then prolong themselves through the coast district of Galicia, 
 and at last terminate upoii the shores of the Atlantic, to the 
 west of Spain, and above Cape Finisterre. It did not fail to 
 occur to our recollection, that it was in this province that the 
 
4 PORTUGAL 
 
 army of the unfortunate and patriotic Marquess of Romana 
 which British vessels had rescued from their state of slavery 
 in Sweden under the iron despotism of Napoleon's continental 
 system, was landed and nobly perished in the glorious contest 
 for the liberties of their country. The scene before us pos- 
 sessed, therefore, a double interest ; and, as the wind was 
 favourable for the purpose, we were enabled to run along the 
 coast at only some few miles distance; which afforded us 
 an opportunity of remarking more particularly the mountain 
 features of this interesting province. 
 
 Cape .Villano, in the province of Santiago, which we 
 approached so near as to take a good view of it, consists of a 
 rock, cut down perpendicularly over the sea; but yet not 
 attaining to any very considerable elevation. A little way at 
 the back of Cape Villano, a lofty peak, having somewhat of 
 a reddish appearance, with a conical-shaped point, extremely 
 sharp, is seen rising up, and from a distance it may be taken 
 for a tower. This part of the coast is further to be distin- 
 guished by a large spot, of a sandy colour, to the east, and 
 near the point of land called Cape de Tosto. The night was 
 beautiful, and the stars unusually bright; and it was with 
 difficulty that we could leave the deck, and quit the interest- 
 ing novelties of the scene for retirement. Before we went 
 down, however, we had well studied the Bay of Corcubion, in 
 which it appears that shelter may be taken by ships during 
 the prevalence of north-easterly gales. 
 
 Cape de Tosto is to the north of the Bay of Camarinas ; and 
 nearly two miles from the upper point of Cape Villano, 
 situated to the south, we could distinguish a solitary hermitage 
 on the summit of a round hill, elevated above the shore ; and 
 near it, to the east, the point of Castillo Viejo, surmounted by 
 the ruins of an old castle. Further again to the east of this 
 point, we could clearly perceive with the naked eye the new 
 castle, a fort of eighteen guns, situated on a projecting tongue 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 5 
 
 of land, erected for the defence of its harbour. To the north 
 of this point, and at some distance, we distinguished, by the 
 use of a telescope, the little town of Camarinas, which is 
 situated on the north-western side of the bay, and nearly 
 opposite to Mugia, to which a small pier is attached. The 
 line of heights which overhang these two towns, are remark- 
 able for their rugged and sterile appearance. 
 
 Three leagues to the south of Cape Villano, Cape Tourinao 
 occurs, which forms a projecting eminence above the water, 
 and at a distance, in one particular point of view, resembles 
 a cover, spread over a vessel, as a defence from the sun's 
 rays. It soon recedes into low ground towards the south- 
 east, and afterwards again rises to a very considerable eleva- 
 tion. A little to the south-west of this cape is a small rocky 
 island, lofty and of a circular shape, with two peaks, and 
 apparently surrounded by shoals. Five or six miles again to 
 the south, lies the Cape de Nave, or Nav6 of Finisterre, a 
 high, bare mountain, flat on the summit, having at its base a 
 small and rocky island of steep ascent. Here the coast forms 
 a bay, and there is a long extent of low shore, which, at some 
 distance, resumes a boldness of character, and forms numerous 
 small bays, interrupted by patches of beach. 
 
 Cape Finisterre (Cabo de Finisterra; St. Cristovalde de 
 Finisterra) lies about half a league to the south-east of Cape 
 de Nave, neither so high, nor so flat, nor so levels as the 
 Nave, but more uneven on the summit. Without reaching 
 to a very precipitous elevation above the sea, the ascent to it 
 must be very steep notwithstanding ; and the landing under 
 it attended with great inconvenience, if not danger. Behind 
 the cape the view is arrested by the dark, barren, and 
 elevated ridge of the mountain called Lezara, which is dis- 
 tinguished from all the surrounding mountains by the height 
 and inequalities of its summit, which has a denticulated 
 appearance, and consists of a multitude of small distinct 
 
6 PORTUGAL 
 
 prominences, which resemble the teeth of a saw. At a 
 little distance off the shore of the cape, there is a small rocky- 
 island called Sentolo. The coast now begins, as it trends to 
 the south, to become elevated and precipitous, for about half 
 a league, in the direction of the town of Finisterre, which is 
 situated within the bay, and has no other inhabitants than 
 fishermen. 
 
 The Bay of Corcubion takes a northerly direction inwards ; 
 Cape Finisterre and Muros, or, more accurately speaking, the 
 little fishing town of Louro, situated on a narrow neck of 
 land, forming its two horns. The town of Corcubion stands 
 on the western side of the bay, up an inlet, which there 
 opens into a considerable breadth. Our course now causing 
 us to keep at a competent distance from the shore, we could 
 only catch an indistinct view of El Son upon the Ria de 
 Noya, and Cape Corrobedo, which was covered by that light 
 uncertain haze, so characteristic of the climate in southern 
 latitudes. 
 
 We have had singular good fortune in being thus enabled, 
 by the favourable state of the wind, to run so close in along 
 the shores of Galicia ; which is indeed but rarely attempted 
 by vessels bound down the Spanish and Portuguese coast; 
 owing to the various hazards of the navigation. We have 
 viewed the whole line of coast, which has been described^ 
 with an intense degree of interest ; not at all diminished, as it 
 may be supposed, by the previous loss of sight of land daring 
 many days. We have collected all the nautical information 
 which we could, in order to aid our own observations in 
 offering to you " a running chart of the different objects and 
 features of the coast," as they successively present themselves 
 to the view. Now all logs, and especially a landsinan's log^ 
 must be insufferably dull productions ; and ours, we are con- 
 vinced, has no pretensions to any merit above the general 
 character of such dry matter-of-fact details. But, let us 
 
ILLUSTRATED, 7 
 
 bespeak your indulgence, since perhaps it may serve your 
 purpose, should you ever be tempted to take a voyage to 
 Lisbon. 
 
 Whilst our course led us to keep a considerable offing, the 
 sable garb of night was rapidly enveloping and concealing 
 from our view, by degrees, every attractive object on the 
 coast ; but still, here and there, on elevated points, we could 
 discern the watchfires of the Spanish shepherds, flickering 
 and gleaming through the misty veil which covered the dis- 
 tant mountains. 
 
 We have endured a most uncomfortable, rolling night, the 
 wind being abaft ; that is, blowing directly down the coast 
 from the north, as is usual at this season of the year. We 
 have heard the bells challenged by the helmsman all througK 
 the night; but the wind has been very propitious, for we 
 have been running along ten. knots an hour, and, between, 
 seven o'clock yesterday evening and eight this morning, we 
 have made about one hundred and ten miles in our course. 
 Towards noon, we kept steadily to nine knots an hour, the 
 coast being visible only from the mast head. 
 
 The ship still continues to roll most inconveniently. When 
 the captain, early this morning, asked us to show him our 
 passports, (for, on entering the Tagus, he is compelled to 
 make an official report of the number and quality of his pas- 
 sengers to the authorities at Belem Castle,) it seemed as if 
 our route de voyage had already been made out for another 
 country, and that we were never destined to behold the 
 glories of the golden Tagus, so completely did we feel our- 
 selves sinking the victims of fatigue and nausea. 
 
 At length, however, we are well abreast of the Berlenga 
 Islands (P. Berlengas) situated off Cape Feizera5, or Peniche, 
 (a. low, but still a steep, projecting point of land,) at about six 
 miles distance. This cluster is formed by the principal isle, 
 Berlenga, and the numerous rocks vvhich surround it. The 
 
8 PORTUGAL 
 
 larger island is of moderate size and elevation, and is level on 
 its summit, with a hollow or cleft running through almost its 
 entire breadth, and separating its two parts, which are called 
 Carreiro-dos-Cagoes, and Carreiro-do-Mosteiro. The shores 
 appear steep. To the south-west of Mosteiro, at a little 
 distance, there is a fortress (called Forteleza de S. Joao) upon 
 a high rock, and which communicates with the Berlenga by a 
 narrow bridge of two arches, and a very difficult road, which 
 winds up to the summit of the island. On its west side is a 
 Faraillon, or high rock crested by a light-house, with a cluster 
 of small rocks adjoining, called the Estrelas ; and to the north- 
 east is the little Faraillon. The great Faraillon is a broad, 
 round, rugged rock, about as high as the great Berlenga, and 
 is surrounded by numerous shoals. 
 
 About twelve leagues from Cape Feizerao is the lofty pro- 
 montory of the Cabo da Roca, commonly termed by British 
 navigators " the Rock of Lisbon," which forms the termina- 
 tion of the high chain of mountains that run in the direction 
 of Cintra towards the sea. The highest point of elevation to 
 which this Serra de Cintra attains, is about eighteen hundred 
 feet ; the summit, on which the Penha Convent is situated, 
 (and which may be clearly distinguished at sea, off the Rock, 
 in fine weather and early in the morning,) wanting about 
 eighty feet of that height. That more immediately of the 
 Rock of Lisbon, perpendicularly taken, may be something less 
 than two hundred feet above the level of the shore beneath. 
 The coast is rocky and dangerous ; but on the summit of the 
 rock there is a tower for a lighthouse, of whose utility let 
 sailors speak ! A short way to the rear of the lighthouse, the 
 land rises up into the mountainous ridge, extending towards 
 the north-east in the direction of Cintra, and which we have 
 already designated as the Serra de Cintra. The whole line 
 of this Serra is remarkable for the numerous uneven and 
 detached eminences, which successively present themselves 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 9 
 
 to the eye. The " glorious Eden of Cintra" is situated on 
 its northern slope, and commands a view of the Atlantic, 
 down a lovely vale, through the orchards and lemon groves of 
 Colares. 
 
 ¥our days are sped, but with the fifth, anon 
 New shores descried make ev'ry bosom gay ; 
 And Cintra's mountain greets them on their way ; 
 And Tagus, dashing onward to the deep. 
 His fabled golden tribute bent to pay ; 
 And soon on board the Lusian pilots leap. 
 And steer 'twixt fertile shores, where yet few rustics reap. 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 About six miles from the Rock of Lisbon, towards the east, 
 and near the lighthouse of Nossa Senhora da Guia (after 
 passing the forts of Guincho, S. Braz, S. Jorge, and fort 
 Torre,) is the point of land which forms the western horn of 
 the Bay of Cascaes, upon whose low flat beach is situated the 
 town of that name, at a distance of about fifteen miles from 
 Lisbon, defended by fort Santa Marta. The chief residence 
 of the pilots, who take charge of ships over the bar at the 
 mouth of the Tagus up to Lisbon, is at Cascaes. Between 
 this place and the Torre de San Juliao da Barra, a distance 
 of five miles, there are no less than eight forts of considerable 
 strength. The Castle of St. Julian is an imposing structure, 
 proudly elevated on a steep promontory, that entirely com- 
 mands the north-western entrance into the river Tagus, whose 
 course here runs in the direction of east-south-east, cutting 
 the province of Estremadura into two unequal portions. 
 
 A Portuguese pilot now came on board ; but apparently it 
 was more a matter of obligation upon the captain to take him, 
 than for any use which seemed to be made of his services. It 
 was blowing a hard gale at the time, with occasionally violent 
 squalls off the land ; which, however, did not prevent a fleet 
 
10 PORTUGAL 
 
 of Lisbon fishing-boats, remarkable for their large Latins sails, 
 from putting out to sea. The Penha Convent was concealed' 
 from our view by a thick cloud, which threw its sable mantle 
 over the jagged line of the dark Serra de Cintra. 
 
 Lisbon was now only two leagues up the river on its right 
 bank ; and as we sailed along, the wind suddenly dropping, 
 we had leisure to enjoy the beautiful scenery presented by the 
 steep shores, which are intersected by numerous vallies, re- 
 ceding deeply into the interior, whose sides are softly clothed 
 with orange and lemon groves, vineyards, and orchards, and 
 studded with beautiful Quintas, or summer residences of the 
 wealthy Portuguese, and convents, whose dazzling white ap- 
 pearance contrasted happily with the varied hues of the sur- 
 rounding groves. On the south shore of the Tagus, from Cape 
 TrafFraria to Almada, there is one continued scene also of 
 towns, detached houses, gardens, and cultivated grounds, in 
 delightful succession. As we advanced, however, up the river, 
 a stream of fiery air came upon us off the land, like the 
 "Simoom's awful blast;" and occasioned a forcible anticipa- 
 tion of the ardent heat which awaited our arrival in this land 
 of the sun. 
 
 The entrance of the Tagus, as is well known to nautical 
 men, is extremely dangerous, and it requires considerable' 
 skill and experience to navigate a vessel with safety across the 
 bar, for the tide and currents are very powerful. There are 
 two passages through the rocky shoals and sand -banks which 
 form the bar, (called the North and South Cachopo,) the 
 former of which is narrower than the other ; and this is 
 marked, in nautical charts, as the Little Channel : while that 
 extending more to the south, and offering a wider space, is 
 termed the Great Channel. The state of the tide and wind 
 allowed of our passing between the Torre de San Juliao da 
 Barra, and the North-eastern, or Little Cachopo. The Torre 
 
'■*jff'v jfl«„s .-r'?'*?. wn-ffi*. 
 
 I y 
 
 « 'I 
 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 11 
 
 de Bugio, off the headland of TraflFfaria, which is at once a; 
 castle and a lighthouse, may be considered as the south-west- 
 ernmost point of land in the river Tagus. 
 
 We now came off the Castle of Belem, where an office 
 is kept for the registry of all the vessels which enter and 
 leave the Tagus ; as well as an establishment of custom- 
 house officers, health officers, and a party of the naval police 
 for the preservation of property, and the defence of the 
 passage. 
 
 The Torre de Belem is an ancient tower of three stories, 
 defended by a battery in front, and at high water is nearly 
 surrounded by the river. It forms a striking object in the 
 landscape, as you may judge from the annexed sketch, which 
 is a faithful representation of this ancient and interesting 
 structure. Here we were visited by the police and health 
 officers ; British troops, at the moment, occupying the castle. 
 From this point, the view up the river, to the east, is grand 
 beyond all conception ; and, to do the magnificent opening of 
 the scenery justice, the most elaborate description would be 
 perfectly inadequate. The breadth of the mighty river crowded 
 with the vessels of every nation ; British and Portuguese men 
 of war at anchor, and in different states of equipment ; the 
 heights to the south crowned with batteries, villages, and vine- 
 yards descending down their sides to the very skirts of the 
 water ; the numerous fishing and pleasure-boats gliding swiftly 
 across the river in various directions ; the long uninterrupted 
 line of palaces, convents, and houses, running along the shore 
 from Belem to Lisbon, under the elevated ridge upon which 
 the splendid residence of the Portuguese sovereigns, the Aju- 
 da, is erected ; and then the beauteous city itself, with its 
 domes, and towers, and gorgeous buildings, extended over its 
 many hills ; and, above all, the deep blue of the heaven's 
 dazzling canopy above, — form a combination of objects, the 
 
12 
 
 PORTUGAL 
 
 striking interest of which can scarcely be represented to a 
 northern imagination. 
 
 Oh ! (that) it is a goodly sight to see 
 What Heaven hath done for this delicious land ! 
 What fruits of fragrance blush on ev'ry tree ! 
 What goodly prospects o'er the hills expand ; 
 But man would mar them with an impious hand. 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 OFF THE CABO DA ROCA. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 13 
 
 LETTER II. 
 
 " Strip a Spaniard of all his virtues, and you make a good Portuguese of 
 him," says the Spanish proverb. I have heard it said more truly, " Add 
 hypocrisy to a Spaniard's vices, and you have the Portuguese character." 
 These nations blaspheme God by calling each other natural enemies. Their 
 feelings are mutually hostile ; but the Spaniards despise the Portuguese, and 
 the Portuguese hate the Spaniards, Southey. 
 
 From the Tagus, 1827. 
 
 Nothing, you will perhaps exclaim, can possibly be more 
 wearisome and dull than a long dry detail of geographical and 
 statistical matter, compressed into a letter, to which one would 
 naturally look only for amusement. But, pray bear in mind, 
 that the principal object of our communications to you from 
 this country, so little known in truth to the people of England, 
 is to enable you to form an extensive and accurate conception 
 pf the principal features of Portugal ; its climate and popu- 
 lation (remarking the proportion of the latter to the produc- 
 tiveness of the soil) ; the habits and customs of the people ; 
 their various domestic, political, commercial, and religious in- 
 stitutions, as well as of the geographical, political, and civil 
 divisions of the country ; and last, though by no means the 
 least important, nor the least interesting part of the subject, 
 to offer you some information respecting its history — for the 
 history of Portugal may be said to be that of the commerce 
 
14 PORTUGAL 
 
 of European states, if not of the civilisation of Europe ge- 
 nerally. 
 
 The Portuguese nation has sustained a prominent and a dis- 
 tinguished part in the great course of human events ; and 
 modern history can exhibit in her annals no power that has 
 more deservedly ranked high among the nations of the world, 
 for the display of moral and intellectual energies ; for boldness 
 of enterprise ; for glorious conquests ; for wisdom in councils, 
 and for just notions of constitutional government, — into how- 
 ever abject and degraded a state the kingdom may have lat- 
 terly fallen, owing to a series of occurrences, unforeseen, 
 therefore unprovided for, and beyond the reach of human 
 control. 
 
 The rise and decline of nations must, at all times, furnish 
 an ample source of matter for the reflection of even the most 
 superficial readers ; but in the history of Portugal it is impos- 
 sible not to fancy, when we are marking its progress to great- 
 ness of empire, and its sudden decline from the elevated point 
 of its imposing grandeur, that we see, traced out beforehand, 
 the inevitable causes which may produce the same results to 
 our own country in the lapse of time. Up to a certain point, 
 the commercial history of the two countries is strikingly simi- 
 lar in many respects ; and it requires no great effort of the 
 imagination to suppose, that political causesof a similar nature 
 may again occur, and reduce our own domestic and foreign 
 greatness to the same low level in the scale of nations to which 
 we see Portugal degraded at the present moment. All that 
 concerns a country too, which, for so long a period, has owed 
 her separate existence as a state to the succours received from 
 England, in money, men, and ships, against the restless ambi- 
 tion of Spain, and the equally dangerous machinations and 
 openly manifested hostilities of France, — ^will, it is presumed, 
 be interesting to an English eye ; and more than ever so, at a 
 time when the British power, by. the mere demonstration of 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 15 
 
 its bared arm, ready to cb operate against aggression, has 
 eflfectually resisted the intentions of the Spanish government 
 upon the integrity and liberties of Portugal. Its present con- 
 dition is a warning example to the people of Great Britain; 
 The closer we look into the-canses, and trace the progress of 
 the effects produced by them, the stronger will be our convic" 
 tion that our own institutions, domestic and foreign, colonial 
 and commercial, extensive and disjoined as they are, must 
 mainly depend, for their preservation, upon the sustained acti- 
 vity and wisdom and sound discretion of a vigilant govern- 
 ment, as well as .upon the freedom resulting from the influence 
 of enlightened principles. 
 
 Situated by the side of a country just five times its size, 
 Portugal, but for the advantageous position of its coast, the 
 good faith of England, the weakness of its hostile neighbour, 
 impassable roads and numerous strong places, would long 
 since have- returned to its primitive condition of an Iberian 
 province ; indeed its separate existence as a nation, it may be 
 justly asserted, has been principally preserved to it by the 
 strength of the British alliance being brought into a glorious 
 co-operation with all its own internal means of defence. 
 
 Having thus, we hope, enlisted your feelings in favour of 
 our plan, we shall proceed to the proposed geographical and 
 historical description of the country, without further apology 
 for the tediousness and probable length of this letter. 
 
 The kingdom of Portugal and Algarve is situated at the 
 south-western extremity of Europe, and is consequently the 
 point of land in the old continent approaching nearest to the 
 coast of America. Its extent, from north to south, may be 
 •somewhat more than 300 miles ; and from 120 to 130 miles, 
 from east to west, in breadth. Its political boundaries, to the 
 north and east, are formed by the four Spanish provinces of 
 Gaiicia, Leon, Estremadura, and Andalusia, The Atlantic 
 ocean constitutes its natural boundary to the west and south ; 
 
16 PORTUGAL 
 
 as do, partly, the courses of the rivers Minha, Douro, Tagus» 
 and Guadiana, in their respective directions. The other limits 
 of the kingdom are solely those established by convention, in 
 the successive treaties entered into with Spain. 
 
 Portugal, again, is divided into six provinces : the three 
 which form the northern department, are, the Entre Douro 
 e Minho, the Tras os Montes, and the Beira; while the 
 southern distribution of the country comprises Portuguese 
 Estremadura, the Alemtejo (or district of country situated 
 upon the other side, that is, to the south and east of the 
 Tagus,) and the small kingdom of Algarve. The civil and 
 internal administration of the provinces is divided unequally 
 into forty-four comarcas, or districts ; each of which is placed 
 under the superintendence of a superior magistrate, denomi- 
 nated corregedor, who has again, subordinate to his authority, 
 the assistance of Juizes de fora, and the cameras and juizes 
 ordinarios, or pela ordenagam. The districts of these officefs 
 may be called subcomarcas ; and each of them are subdivided 
 into diiferent vintenas, having their own particular judges, but 
 who still are in a state of dependence upon their respective 
 juizes defora, and ihe juizes ordinarios. 
 
 The Portuguese cidade is a title granted to a town by royal 
 favour, and which possesses a camara, or municipality, and is 
 the seat of an archbishop or bishop : villa, containing an infe- 
 rior amount of population, is a title also conceded by the king. 
 Each of these, cidade and villa, have a termo (jurisdiction or 
 precinct) over a certain circuit of the district which surrounds 
 them, and over which their magistrates exercise authority. 
 Aldea signifies a little town, or village ; lugar, a hamlet ; and 
 casal, a farm; — conselho, a place where several separate com- 
 munes are united under one common head. These conselhos 
 are very numerous in the northern provinces. The honra is a 
 lordship, bestowed by the crown in recompense of brilliant 
 achievements : it includes within its jurisdiction both hamlets 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 17 
 
 and smaller communes. The privileges, however, of the honra 
 have been considerably abridged ; and those alone remain 
 which were recognised and approved by King Denis. The 
 couto is a separate and inferior jurisdiction, which takes cog- 
 nizance of civil cases of minor importance, and generally was 
 conferred upon the bishops and monks ; whereas the honras 
 were granted to the laity. The reguengos may be considered 
 as the " crown lands," which were originally conquered from 
 the Moors, and bestowed as the crown saw right, gratuitously, 
 or upon certain conditions of payment. 
 
 The province of Entre Minho e Douro is bounded to the 
 north by the Spanish province of Galicia and the river Minho ; 
 to the east by that of Tras os Montes, from which it is sepa- 
 rated by the high range of the mountains of the Marao and of 
 the Gerez ; to the south by the Beira, which the Douro 
 divides from it. The province of Tras os Montes, — so called 
 because it is situated, with respect to that just before noticed, 
 beyond the Serra of the Marao, which in fact separates it 
 from the Minho e Douro, — has Galicia on its northern frontier, 
 the province of Leon to the east, Beira to the south, and the 
 mountains of the Marao and Gerez ranging to the west; and is 
 the only province of the kingdom not bathed by the waters of 
 the ocean. The province of Beira is the largest in the king- 
 dom, being bounded to the north by the two provinces already 
 mentioned ; to the east by the kingdom of Leon and Spanish 
 Estremadura ; and to the south by Portuguese Estremadura 
 and the Alemtejo; and to the west by the ocean, in a very 
 small portion of its extent. Estremadura touches Beira to the 
 north ; and to the east and south, the Alemtejo ; and on the 
 west, the Atlantic ocean. The province of the Alemtejo rests 
 to the north upon Portuguese Estremadura and a part of 
 Beira ; to the east it is bounded by Spanish Estremadura ; to 
 the south by the kingdom of Algarve ; and to the west by a 
 portion of Portuguese Estremadura, and by the ocean. The 
 Port. B 
 
18 PORTUGAL 
 
 kingdom of the Two Algarves, (so called from its formerly 
 comprising within its limits the sea-coast from Cape St. Vin- 
 cent to Almeria in the Spanish province Grenada, and the cor- 
 responding line of coast in Africa, opposite, including Ceuta 
 and Tangiers,) has the Alemtejo for its northern confine ; An- 
 dalusia for its eastern boundary, from which it is separated by 
 the river Guadiana ; and to the south and west it is bounded 
 by the ocean. 
 
 The principal portion of the Portuguese territory, properly 
 so called, forming the western extremity of the Iberian penin- 
 sula, was known, at a remote period of time, under the appel- 
 lation of Lusitania ; a term derived from the Lusitani, one of 
 the boldest and most daring tribes amongst its early inha- 
 bitants. The Phoenician navigators were not strangers to the 
 wealth and fertility of Lusitania, and they were followed in 
 their communications with its natives by the Carthaginians ; 
 but, as no mention is made in history of any commercial esta- 
 blishments of these two enterprising people having existed on 
 its coasts, the correctness of the national persuasion on these 
 points will remain in doubt, until additional and satisfactory 
 proofs have been adduced in its support. 
 
 After the Romans had entirely expelled the Carthaginians 
 from their possessions in Spain, the northern portions of Iberia 
 and Lusitania yielded to a long-continued succession of bloody 
 and obstinate combats, and thus lost their hitherto maintained 
 independence. About two hundred years previous to the 
 commencement of the Christian era, the whole Iberian penin- 
 sula had become a Roman province, — had received the lan- 
 guage, and had adopted the habits and the laws of its con- 
 querors. Even at this distance of time the solid remains of 
 majestic aqueducts, magnificent bridges, and of other imposing 
 structures, attest, in either country, to the traveller, the proud 
 domination of the Romans, and their grand system of govern- 
 ment. During that period, the whole of the peninsula was 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 19 
 
 divided into two extensive provinces, the "ulterior" province 
 comprising Andalusia and Lusitania, while the "citerior" in- 
 cluded the remaining portion ; and it would appear that then 
 the confines of Portugal rested upon the ocean to the north, 
 and upon the Tagus to the south ; thus including within its 
 territorial limits the whole of Spanish Galicia, the provinces of 
 the Minho, the Tras os Montes, the Beira, and more than the 
 half of Portuguese Estremadura. 
 
 Under the reign of Augustus, that part of Portugal which 
 extended from the Douro (JDurius) to the Guadiana {Anas,) 
 which separates Algarve from Andalusia, — or more minutely 
 speaking, the provinces of Beira, Estremadura, Algarve, and 
 nearly the whole of the Alemtejo, — was included in the pro- 
 vince of Lusitania. In fact, its extent was much more consi- 
 derable than the limits of modern Portugal ; for, at that time, 
 in addition to the territory situated between the Douro and 
 Guadiana, the whole of Spanish Estremadura, lying to the 
 north of the last-mentioned river, — the whole of the province 
 of Salamanca, and a portion of those of Zamora, Toro, Valla- 
 dolid, Avila, and of Toledo, were considered as constituent 
 parts of Lusitania. The two provinces of the Minho and the 
 Tras OS Montes formed then a portion of the vast province in 
 Spain called the Tarraconensis ; and the small remaining part 
 of the Alemtejo, not included within the limits of Lusitania, 
 and to the left of the Guadiana, was comprised in the province 
 of Betica. 
 
 Besides the Lusitani, who dwelt between the rivers Douro 
 and Tagus, (Tejo,') the principal tribes of Lusitania were, first, 
 the Cynetae, who inhabited the kingdom of Algarve ; next the 
 Turdetani, Celtse, or Geltse, who extended themselves from 
 the Guadiana to the Tagus, and even to the east, under the 
 name of Turduli, into the very centre of Spanish Estrema- 
 dura ; then the Vectones, who occupied the district of country 
 situated between the Douro, the Tagus, and the Guadiana. 
 
20 PORTUGAL 
 
 The tribe of the Turdetani dwelt to the left of the Guadiana, 
 in the Betica ; and the Galleci, (or Galled- Br acari,) that is, 
 the Southern Galicians, inhabited that northern portion of the 
 Spanish province of Tarraconensis, which corresponds with 
 the modern Portuguese provinces of the Entre Minho (Minius, 
 or Baenis) and Douro, and the Tras os Montes. 
 
 The Christian religion, according to the testimony of Ter- 
 tullian and Irenseus, was introduced into the peninsula about 
 the second century, and probably during the reign of the 
 Emperor Adrian. 
 
 In the fourth century, under the Emperor Constantine, 
 Portugal was divided into the two provinces of Lusitania and 
 Gallcecia ; but, in the following century, at the time of the fall 
 of the Roman empire in the west, (in the reign of Honorius,) 
 Portugal became the divided property of the Suevi and the 
 Visigoths ; the former taking possession of the country to the 
 north of the Tagus as its share, together with the whole of Ga- 
 licia, and establishing Braga {Br acar a- Augusta) as its northern 
 capital, and Coimbra (Conimbrigd) and Lisbon {Olisipo, or 
 Olyssipolis) as its principal seats of government in the south. 
 The Visigoths occupied the district situated to the south of the 
 Tagus, and their principal towns were Evora, (Ebora,) Beja, 
 (Paj'- Julia) and Lagos, {Lacobriga,) situated about thirty miles 
 from Cape St. Vincent. This race of barbarian invaders, 
 towards the end of the sixth century, rendered themselves 
 masters of the whole of Portugal as well as of Spain, but 
 yielded in their turn to the Arabian forces, early in the eighth 
 century, at the battle of Xerfes de la Frontera, (to the north 
 of Cadiz,) where the Visigoth sovereign, Roderic, was entirely 
 defeated. 
 
 This first invasion of Spain by the Moors was successfully 
 conducted by Taric ben Z6yad, to whom Muza ben Noseir el 
 Men, the emir of Africa, by the direction of the caliph, had 
 entrusted a considerable force ; and eventually the whole of 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 21 
 
 the peninsula fell, under the generalship of Muza, into the 
 possession of the Moorish conquerors, as the fruits of this 
 victory, and formed the caliphate of Spain. Walid ben Ab- 
 delm^lic ben Meruan was at this time caliph of the east. 
 The victorious Arabs, not contented with their acquisitions in 
 Portugal, Spain, and Languedoc, pushed their conquests along 
 the Mediterranean, even into Sicily and Calabria ; and more 
 than once carried terror and desolation to the gates of Chris- 
 tian Rome. In fact, it is more than probable that the whole 
 of Europe would have bent under their yoke, had not Charles 
 Martel arrested their progress on the bloody fields of Poitiers 
 and Narbonne. 
 
 In Portugal, however, the Moors experienced a reverse of 
 fortune about the middle of the eighth century, being first 
 driven out of Galicia by the kings of Oviedo, and finally dis- 
 possessed by them of the province of the Minho, known in the 
 following century under the name of Portucalia, {Port de Cale, 
 or PoRTo) ; which term then included only the Minho and the 
 Tras OS Montes, but at a subsequent period was employed for 
 the designation of the whole country, and ultimately super- 
 seded the use of the appellation of Lusitania altogether. The 
 earliest instance of the employment of Portugal as a term of 
 designation for the whole of the Portuguese provinces, occurred 
 towards the end of the eleventh century, when Ferdinand the 
 Great, King of Castile and of Leon, gave the two Portuguese 
 provinces, mentioned above, to Garcia, his third son. 
 
 The domestic quarrels and distractions which took place 
 among the African conquerors of Spain, at the period when 
 the rule of the caliphs of the east gave way to the establish- 
 ment of the kingly government of Cordova, (about 756, or the 
 139th year of the Hegira,) reanimated the courage of the re- 
 maining Visigoths, who had sought refuge from the galling 
 yoke of the Moors in the mountains of Asturias. Issuing from 
 their inaccessible retreats, they reconquered a portion of their 
 
22 PORTUGAL 
 
 lost territory, and founded, in process of time, the kingdom of 
 Oviedo and finally those of Leon and Castile, under their 
 king Alphonso I., surnamed the Catholic. 
 
 In Portugal, the struggle between the Christian kings of 
 Oviedo and the Moors for the supremacy, was attended, during 
 a long series of years, with a variety of success to either party. 
 At one time the Christians extended their territorial limits to 
 the banks of the Douro ; at another to the Mondego, and even 
 to the Tagus, as they were favoured by the chances of battles ; 
 and at length, about the middle of the tenth century, they 
 succeeded in depriving the Moors of the possession of Lisbon. 
 Portugal, as well as Spain, was at this period divided into se- 
 parate and petty sovereignities of Christians and Mohamme- 
 dans, of unequal extent ; and owing to their mutual aggres- 
 sions and constant reprisals upon each other, the history of the 
 two countries, during these ages, presents an almost unbroken 
 narrative of obstinate combats and exterminating carnage, not 
 less the result of religious zeal than of the thirst for extended 
 dominion, which animated the leaders of the contending 
 armies. 
 
 As it is essential to our object of illustration, we must at this 
 point interrupt the historical narrative, by introducing a 
 
 GENEALOGICAL TABLE 
 OF THE SOVEREIGNS OF PORTUGAL. 
 
 FIRST DYNASTY", 
 
 ORIGINATING FROM THE HOUSE OF BURGUNDY. 
 
 Henry of Burgundy, (grandson of Robert I., Duke of Burgundy, and great 
 grandson of Robert II., King of France,) " Count of Portu- 
 gal," 1090—1112. 
 
 Alphonso I., proclaimed King on the field of Ourique, 1139 — 1185. 
 
 Sancho I., 1185—1211. 
 
 Alphonso II., (surnamed "the Fat,") 1211 — 1223. 
 
 Sancho II., 1223. Deposed by Pope Innocent IV. 1245. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 23 
 
 Alphonso III., appointed by the Pope to succeed his brother, 1248— 1279i 
 Denis, « the Patriot King," 1279—1325. 
 Alphonso IV., surnamed " the Bold," 1325—1357. 
 Peter I., surnamed " the Severe and Just," 1357 — 1367. — Ignes de Cas- 
 tro, acknowledged his queen, and crowned after her death. 
 Ferdinand, (born to Peter I., from Constance,) 1367 — 1383. 
 
 THE DYNASTY OF AVIS ; 
 
 FAILURE OF THE LEGITIMATE DESCENT FROM THE HOUSE OF 
 
 BURGUNDY. 
 
 John I., surnamed " the Bastard King," 1383 — 1433 ; graiid master of the 
 order of Avis. 
 
 Edward, 1433 — 1438. The science of navigation advanced by the protec- 
 tion of the great Henry, Duke of Viseu, brother to the King. 
 
 Alphonso' V., 1438 — 1481, denominated " the African." The military 
 order of the " Tower and Sword" established 1459. 
 
 John II., surnamed " the Great," 1481 — 1495. Feudal rights of the nobles 
 repressed ; maritime discoveries continued ; the Cape of Good 
 Hope passed. 
 
 Emmanuel, " the Fortunate," 1495 — 1521, (cousin of John II.) Vasco de 
 Gama doubles the Cape, and lands at Calicut, on the coast of 
 Malabar. Route by sea to China discovered. 
 
 John III., 1521 — 1557. The foundations of the extensive empire of the 
 Portuguese in India Established. 
 
 Sebastian, 1557 — 1578, (grandson and immediate successor of John,) edu- 
 cated by the Jesuits. The glory and power of Portugal 
 eclipsed. Camoens published his Lusiad, and in the following 
 reign died in a poor-house. 
 
 Henry, (the Cardinal King,) 1578 — 1580 ; patron of the bloody Inquisition 
 at Goa, and in Lisbon ; grand importer from the East of mo- 
 nastic lictionis. 
 
 PERIOD OF THE SPANISH USURPATION. 
 
 Philip I., (II. of Castile,) 1580—1598 ; seizes the crown by the army of his 
 
 general, the Duke of Alba. 
 Philip II., (III. of Castile,) 1598—1621. The blasting influence of the 
 
 Spanish rule shown in the loss of colonies, and in the decline of 
 
 commerce. 
 
24 PORTUGAL 
 
 Philip III., (IV. of Castile,) 1621—1640. During these sixty years, in 
 which Portugal was annexed to Spain, the ruin of her domestic 
 and foreign greatness was effected. The Portuguese at length 
 drive the Spaniards from their soil, and proclaim the Duke of 
 Braganza their King. 
 
 DYNASTY DESCENDING FROM THE HOUSE OF 
 BRAGANZA. 
 
 John IV,, 1640 — 1656, (descended in a direct line from Alphonso, the 
 natural son of John I., who was created Duke of Braganza in 
 1442.) The Infanta Catherine, his grandmother, daughter of 
 the Infant Dom Edward, was declared to have been the true 
 and legitimate heiress of the throne at the death of Cardinal 
 Henry, when the Spanish tyrant seized the crown. 
 
 Alphonso VI., 1656 — 1683. The independence of Portugal re-established 
 by victories over the Spaniards. Dethroned by his queen, who 
 marries his brother, the succeeding monarch. 
 
 Peter II., regent from 1648 to 1667 ; and upon his brother's death, sove- 
 reign, from 1683 to 1706. The " Methuen treaty" concluded 
 in this reign. The celebrated ministry of the Count of Ericeira. 
 
 John V,, 1706 — 1750. Church of Lisbon elevated by the Pope to a pa- 
 triarchate. Papistical title of " Most Faithful Majesty" pro- 
 cured from Rome, 1749. Abuses introduced into the govern- 
 ment, through the corrupt management of the priesthood. The 
 palace, church, and convent of Mafra erected. The national 
 finances exhausted by ecclesiastic avidity. 
 
 Joseph I., 1750 — 1777. Ecclesiastical power suppressed, and the Jesuits 
 banished the kingdom, in the celebrated ministry of Sebastian 
 Carvalho, (Count of Oyeras and Marquess of Pombal.) The 
 great earthquake at Lisbon. Renovation of the city. Esta- 
 blishment of the wine company of the Douro, and other privi- 
 leged commercial societies. 
 
 Mary I., 1777 — 1816; the victim of confessorial discipline. Incapacitated 
 by her mental malady from all interference in state affairs. 
 Her son becomes regent. First and second coalition against 
 the French. 
 
 John VI., 1816—1826. Embarkation of the royal family for Brasil, during 
 the regency. Three invasions of Portuga;! by the French de- 
 feated by Wellington and Hill. The Portuguese army re- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 25 
 
 organised by Beresford ; consequent triumphs in Spain and 
 France. Brasil elevated to the rank of a kingdom. Return to 
 Europe of Dom Joao VI. Independence of Brasil declared. 
 Constitution of Portugal proclaimed, accepted, and remodified 
 by the King. 
 
 Pedro IV., Emperor of Brasil, 1826; appoints a regency, and 1827, 
 destines his infant daughter for the bride of Don Miguel, his 
 brother, and for the crown of Portugal. 
 
 At length (to resume our historical narrative) towards the 
 commencement of the twelfth century, Alphonso VI., King of 
 Le6n and Castile, surnamed the Brave, being compelled to 
 yield to a superior force of Moors, at the fatal battle of Zalaca, 
 shut himself up with the remnant of his discomfited troops 
 within the fortifications of Toledo. Alarmed at the cheerless 
 prospect of continuing unaided an unequal contest with the 
 Arabians, whose armies were continually receiving from Africa 
 additional strength, this sovereign adopted the wise and politic 
 conduct of Charlemagne, in proclaiming a crusade against the 
 Mohammedan power in Spain, and in demanding succour 
 froni Philip I. of France, and the Duke of Burgundy. Spain 
 presented to the chivalrous spirit, which prevailed at that 
 period, a field of glory for noble exertions, and promised a 
 proud harvest of laurels. In accordance with its impulse, a 
 host of Christian warriors hastened at the appeal to rally 
 round the standard of the cross. The chivalrous spirit of the 
 age, and a warm devotion to the Christian cause, which fired 
 the breast of the Christian combatant of every class, still fur- 
 ther excited by recent dangers and the prospect of further 
 calamities to Christian Europe, combined to render the arms 
 and the cause of Alphonso completely successful. 
 
 Amoilg the most daring and distinguished leaders of the 
 Christian allies, Alphonso had remarked Henry of Besahfon^ 
 (the younger son of the Duke of Burgundy,) and in reward of 
 
26 PORTUGAL 
 
 his services, gave him, with the title of Count of Portucal, his 
 daughter, Donna Theresa, in marriage ; adding, as her dowry, 
 the eventual sovereignty of the provinces of the Tras os 
 Montes and of the Minho, (situated to the south of Galicia, 
 and justly termed the " Medulla Hispanica," being at this 
 day one of the most beautiful, the most populous, fertile, and 
 wealthy districts in the world) ; as also (to the south of the 
 Douro) of that part of the Beira already recovered from the 
 Moors, including the towns of Coimbra and Vizeu. Guima- 
 raens became his seat of government. Nobly fulfilling his 
 engagements with his father-in-law, by the wisdom of his 
 measures and by the success of his arms, he had the glory of 
 extending his dominions, of conciliating the Moors, of render- 
 ing the Mohammedan sovereign of Lamego tributary to his 
 rule, and, in fact, of becoming the founder of the Portuguese 
 monarchy. 
 
 The Mohammedans, who had remained tranquil and sub' 
 missive during the life of Count Henry, revolted under his son 
 and successor, Alphonso Henriques, whose warlike spirit, dis- 
 played in early life, had awakened their just apprehensions. 
 Secure, as they presumed, of victory, in their overwhelming 
 numbers, the Walis of Badajos, of B^ja, of Evora, Elvas, and 
 Lisbon, assembled (in 1139) a force, as is asserted, of 400,000 
 men, in the plain of Ourique, (situated between the Guadiana 
 and the river Sadao); but they imprudently wasted the 
 vigour of their men in repeated and useless attacks upon the 
 Christian camp, placed upon the contiguous heights. Observ- 
 ing the energies of the assailants decline, Alphonso quitted 
 his intrenchments, and poured down upon the infidels with 
 the impetuosity of a torrent, and completely routed them. 
 The victors hailed their general sovereign upon the field of 
 battle, (in obedience to an asserted vision of Christ, by Al-' 
 phonso, the evening previous,} and were in return dignified by 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 27 
 
 their king with the rank of nobility. In the Lusiad the battle 
 is thus described ; and we cannot do better than give it in 
 Mickle's splendid version : — 
 
 O'er Ourique's wide campaign his ensigns wave. 
 And the proud Saracen to the combat brave. 
 In Heaven's protecting care his courage lies. 
 
 And Heaven, his friend, superior force supplies. 
 
 'Twas morn's still hour, — before the dawning grey 
 The stars' bright twinkling radiance died away ; 
 When lo ! resplendent in the heav'n serene. 
 High o'er the prince, the sacred cross was seen. 
 The godlike prince, with faith's warm glow inflamed, 
 " O, not to me, my bounteous God !" exclaimed — 
 " O, not to me, who well thy grandeur know. 
 
 But to the pagan herd thy wonders show !" 
 
 The Lusian host, enraptured, marked the sign 
 That witnessed to their chief the aid divine ; 
 Right on the foe they shake the beaming lance. 
 
 And with firm strides and heaving breasts advance. 
 
 with fiercer ardour glows 
 
 The Heaven-made monarch. 
 
 Beneath the Lusian sweeping force o'erthrown. 
 Crushed by their battered mails, the wounded groan ; 
 Burning with thirst, they draw their panting breath. 
 
 And curse their prophet as they writhe in death., 
 
 Again the Lusian fury wakes its fires ; 
 The terror of the Moors new strength inspires : 
 The scattered few in wild confusion fly. 
 And total rout resounds the yelling cry. 
 
 Five Saracen monarchs fell on this memorable occasion. 
 According to the romantic gallantry of the Moors, each fought 
 in the presence of his mistress, who shared in the perils of the 
 fearful combat with Amazonian heroism ; and, as described 
 by Camoens, — • 
 
 In all the beauteous glow of blooming years, 
 Beside each king a warrior nymph appears : 
 Each with her sword her valiant lover guards ; 
 With smiles inspires him, and with smiles rewards. 
 
28 PORTUGAL 
 
 Just as Virgil, in the first book of his ^Eneid, describes the 
 bold daring of the warrior virgin : — 
 
 Ducit Amazonidum lunatis agmina peltis 
 Penthesilea furens ; mediisque in millibus ardet, 
 Bellatrix, audetque viris concurrere virgo. 
 
 This celebrated victory, to which military pride and super- 
 stition added the aid of miracles, and so honourable in truth 
 to the history of Portugal, was attended with equally glorious 
 results ; for the remainder of the Beira, the whole of Estrema- 
 dura, and nearly the entire extent of the Alemtejo, fell into 
 the hands of the conqueror, together with the towns of Leiria,— 
 
 From Leyra's wall the baffled Ismar flies. 
 And strong Arroncha falls his conquered prize. 
 
 LusiAD. 
 
 Santarem, (qu. Scalabis, upon the Tagus) ; Lisbon ; Cintra, — 
 as in the language of the Lusiad, — 
 
 To him submits fair Cintra's cold domain. 
 The soothing refuge of the Naiad train, &c. 
 
 Alca5:ar do Sal, (Selacia Imperatoria,) on the Sadao ; Evora, 
 (Ebora et liberalitas Julia,) near the Xarama ; and Elvas, on 
 the Burdala, and near the Guadiana, 
 
 The conquest of Lisbon at this critical time, 
 
 The queen of cities, whom the seas obey — 
 
 was of the utmost consequence to Alphonso at the beginning 
 of his establishment of the monarchy. The port was even then 
 reputed to be the most commodious of the peninsula, and the 
 city was regarded as almost impregnable, its old Moorish wall 
 being flanked by seventy-seven towers, and winding into a 
 circumference of fourteen miles. Had it not been, however, 
 for the accidental circumstance of a fleet, manned by cru- 
 saders, who were proceeding to the Holy Land from the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 29 
 
 north, taking at the moment refuge from a storm in the Tagus, 
 (a part of whom consisted of English,) and who volunteered 
 their assistance against the numerous garrison of Moors, 
 Alphonso might have failed in his hardy attempt at its cap- 
 ture : — 
 
 Far from the north a warlike navy bore. 
 
 From Elbe, from Rhine, and Albion's misty shore. 
 
 To rescue Salem's long polluted shrine : 
 
 Their force to great Alphonso's force they join. 
 
 LusiAD. 
 
 History, indeed, informs us that at subsequent periods the 
 Portuguese, in their wars with the Moors, frequently received 
 succour from the English and German crusaders. 
 
 In order to sustain his throne against the efforts of Castilian 
 ambition, and to secure the papal protection, Alphonso con- 
 sented to acknowledge, in 1142, that he held his crown of the 
 holy see as its vassal and tributary. Six years after the 
 battle of Ourique, in a solemn convocation of the Cortes at 
 Lamego, though a long series of subsequent victories might in 
 fact have rendered him the despotic sovereign of his country, 
 he submitted his military election to the approbation of the 
 civil authorities ; established the order of succession to the 
 crown ; declared its independence ; and laid the basis of a 
 constitutional government. In this truly patriotic proceeding, 
 where such noble proofs were given of mutual forbearance 
 and confidence, it is difficult to determine the degree of admi- 
 ration due to the chieftain who spurned a crown that was not 
 conceded by the concurrent voice of all his subjects, and to 
 the people, who, forgetting the intemperance of victory, and 
 awake only to the real interests of the state, in choosing a 
 successful warrior for their king, had the boldness and the 
 freedom to prescribe fixed bounds to the exercise of the regal 
 authority, and to establish certain barriers for the preservation 
 of the just right and great blessing of the people, — liberty. 
 
30 PORTUGAL 
 
 The conscious dignity, the love of constitutional freedom, the 
 sense of their own value and importance to the state, which 
 characterise the founders of the constitutional monarchy in 
 Portugal, forms a bright feature in her history, and offers an 
 illustrious example for the imitation of their posterity. 
 
 The complete reduction of the Algarve was become a fa- 
 vourite object with the Portuguese monarch ; but although 
 Alphonso's son and successor, Sancho I., succeeded in cap- 
 turing the town of Silves from the Moors, it was reserved for 
 Alphonso III., who mounted the throne upon the deposition 
 of his brother Sancho II. by Pope Innocent IV., to complete 
 the conquest of that kingdom, and annex it to the Portuguese 
 crown, the king of Castile renouncing thenceforward all 
 claims and pi'etensions to its possession. 
 
 The influence exercised, about this time, by the Pope in the 
 internal affairs of Portugal, was most injurious to its welfare. 
 In addition to the acquirement of considerable wealth, the 
 clergy, through the power of the court of Rome, had pos- 
 sessed themselves of certain royal prerogatives, and exemption 
 from secular jurisdiction. The king and the people were 
 alike hostile to their enjoyment of these dangerous immunities; 
 but Denis, (the " patriot monarch,") who succeeded his father 
 Alphonso III., found himself compelled by circumstances to 
 confirm the ambitious ecclesiastics in the possession of those 
 privileges, of which, for a short time, they had been rightly 
 deprived by the good sense of the nation. To the wisdom 
 and patriotism of " the good king Denis," Portugal was much 
 indebted for great improvements in agriculture, commerce, 
 and navigation ; and above all, for his promotion of education 
 and learning, in the establishment of a national university, 
 first at Lisbon, and afterwards at Coimbra, — 
 
 In that fair city, round whose verdant meads 
 
 The branching river of Mondego spreads. Lusiad. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 31 
 
 The character of Alphonso IV. (surnamed " the bold,") was 
 widely different from that of his virtuous predecessor; for 
 though his reign may be considered, from the success of his 
 arms, one of great military splendour, yet, as a politician, his 
 Machiavelian principles must render him an object of con- 
 tempt and hatred to an honest mind ; while the man of heart 
 and feeling will condemn him as a person wanting to all the 
 duties, the obligations, and the relations of life. The Moors, 
 as we have seen, had been completely driven out of the terri- 
 tory of Portugal by Lusitanian valour, previous to the com- 
 mencement of this reign. 
 
 In 1340, Alphonso XI. of Spain, had assembled an army 
 at Seville for the relief of Tarifa, then closely invested by the 
 African forces united under Abul Hasan and Jusef I. In this 
 emergency, the instant succour of the Genoese was demanded 
 by the Spanish monarch, as well as that of the King of Por- 
 tugal, Alphonso IV., who lost no time in joining his troops to 
 those of the Castilian, according to treaty at Seville ; whence 
 the allied army marched against the Mohammedan hordes 
 encamped upon the opposite bank of the river Salado, desig- 
 nated at that time by the name of Wadac^lito. The combat 
 was, for a long time, maintained on either side with furious 
 animosity and equal resolution, and the issue appeared doubt- 
 ful ; but, at the moment the Mohammedans appeared to give 
 way, the garrison of Tarifa made a vigorous attack upon the 
 flanks of the besiegers, and decided the fortune of the day. 
 The king of Fez fled to Gibraltar, and embarked the same 
 evening for Africa ; while Jusef with difiiculty reached, by 
 Algezira, his kingdom of Grenada. 
 
 The crowns of Arragon, Castile, and Leon, were finally 
 united in the persons of Ferdinand V. and Isabella, 1479; 
 and, thirteen years afterwards, (1492,) they made their 
 triumphant entry into Grenada, when Abu Abdal^, the 
 Moorish sovereign of Grenada, fled from the Alhambra, and 
 
32 PORTUGAL 
 
 took temporary refuge in the lofty mountains of Alpuxares. 
 After enduring, for more than one hundred years, the most 
 cruel and unchristian persecutions from the Catholic sove- 
 reigns of Spain, the vanquished descendants of Ismael were 
 driven from the field of their glory in 1 609, and compelled to 
 take refuge in the deserts of Africa. 
 
 This long digression, which indeed appears necessary to the 
 narrative, must not be closed without our remarking, in favour 
 of the character of the Moors, that, however disastrous the 
 irruption of the Saracens into Spain might have appeared at 
 the time, yet its effects proved ultimately most beneficial to 
 the civilisation of Europe. 
 
 The first result of their successes in the Peninsula was, it is 
 true, the infliction of an ample return for all the rapine and 
 the carnage of the Gothic conquerors upon the heads of their 
 degenerate posterity. Carrying with them, however, in their 
 career of glory, a taste for letters and for science, they soon 
 restored to cultivation and wealth, regions, which the pride or 
 the indolence of the preceding masters had devoted to neglect 
 and sterility ; and they left the traces of their progress in the 
 illumination and improvement of the human mind. A chi- 
 valrous spirit, too, impressed upon the actions of the " Arab- 
 Moor " a character of grandeur and elevation. At this dis- 
 tance of time, their heroism and devotion of soul, — their 
 hospitality to the stranger, — their attachment to the religion 
 of their fathers, — the firm constancy of their principles and 
 opinions,— their generous treatment of a fallen foe,— their 
 warlike, as well as their pastoral habits, — their love for poetry, 
 for flowers, and the cultivation of fruits,— the minarets of their 
 sacred mosques contrasting their golden hue with the deep 
 green foliage of palm trees and orange groves, — the magic of 
 their palaces,— their Alhambras,— all concur in rendering the 
 recollections of the Moor in Spain a picture of enchantment. 
 But human glory is both imperfect and evanescent. A rest- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 33 
 
 less thirst for liberty and independence^ — a tendency to revolt 
 and insubordination, — -a wayward and an ardent imagination, — 
 impetuous passions, ambition, and the desire of universal do- 
 mination, (the infirmities of a noble mind, but the fruitful and 
 certain sources of an empire's decline,) — towards the latter 
 ages of their residence in the peninsula, broke down the mighty 
 work of their great progenitors, terminated in the dissolution 
 of their European empire, and their banishment to the sands 
 of Africa. 
 
 Under Peter I., sur named " the Severe and Just," (the suc- 
 cessor of Alphonso IV.) commerce, agriculture, navigation, and 
 the newly established interest of the fisheries, made great ad- 
 vances. Severe in the execution of the laws, and rigorous in 
 the administration of justice, — inflexible and indefatigable in 
 the removal of all abuses, he reduced the clamorous and in- 
 triguing priesthood to a state of wholesome and proper sub- 
 mission, and brought them back within the operation of the 
 royal courts, from whose jurisdiction the papal thunder had 
 hitherto unfortunately been able to exempt them. Whilst* 
 however, he was ever prompt to punish the delinquencies of 
 the evil, merit was sure at his hands to receive its distinction 
 and reward ; and no sovereign, whose virtues have ever done 
 honour to a throne, could be more eminently entitled to the 
 appellation of "Just" than this excellent monarch. A glooni 
 was indelibly cast upon his feelings, and perhaps his temper 
 was soured by the barbarous murder of Ignes, through the in- 
 stigation of his father's courtiers, — of her 
 
 Whose sole oflFence in fond affection lay. 
 
 But we shall have an opportunity of speaking more particu- 
 larly of this cruel assassination, by the order of Alphonso IV., 
 
 This foul disgrace, of knighthood lasting stain, 
 By men of arms an helpless lady slain, — 
 Port. C 
 
34 PORTUGAL 
 
 when we arrive at Coimbra, and visit the Fonte dos Aniores, 
 upon the opposite bank of the Mondego, which was at once 
 the seat of Pedro's happiness and misery. 
 
 The legitimate descent of the kings of Portugal from Count 
 Henry, of the house of Burgundy, terminated with Ferdinand 
 (the son of Peter I.) the preceding monarch, in 1383. After 
 wasting the resources of his people in the vain support of his 
 claims to the crown of Castile, exposing Lisbon to a siege, and 
 the whole country to devastation, this monarch gave his 
 youthful daughter in marriage to the natural enemy of Por- 
 tugal; John I., at that time the reigning king of Castile. In 
 violation of the express article of the constitution of Lamego, 
 which for ever separated the crown of Portugal from that of 
 Spain, it was agreed between the contracting parties, that the 
 male issue of this connection should succeed to the Portu- 
 guese sceptre, and that failing, that it should devolve into the 
 hands of the Castilian monarch. Fortunately, however, the 
 career of this Spanish tyrant was short, and no issue was left 
 of Beatrix, for whom the crown of Portugal could be claimed ; 
 and therefore all the just pretensions of the Spaniard ceased. 
 The marriage had scarcely been concluded, when Ferdinand 
 died. 
 
 It had been provided by the laws of the constitution, that 
 in a case of emergency, such as now occurred, the election of a 
 new sovereign should immediately take place. The legal heir 
 to the crown, Don Juan, the son of Pedro and Ignes de Castro, 
 whose marriage had been solemnly recognised by an assembly 
 of the states, was a prisoner at this time in the hands of his 
 rival, the King of Castile. The necessity of having a head to 
 the government appointed without delay, opened the road to 
 the throne for John, surnamed the Bastard, the natural son of 
 Don Pedro, by Donna Theresa Lorenzo, a Galician lady. 
 Availing himself of the natural aversion by which the Portu- 
 guese were influenced against the Castilians, he seized the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 35 
 
 regency from the hands of the queen-dowager, the infamous 
 Leonora ; successfully defended Lisbon, and forced the Spa- 
 niards to retire into Spain after their memorable defeat on the 
 plain of Aljubarota. 
 
 It was this battle, which, together with that so successfully 
 fought on the bloody field of Ourique, completely established 
 the independence of the Portuguese monarchy. John was, in 
 consequence, unanimously elected King by the Cortes, as- 
 sembled at Coimbra in 1385 ; when some additional articles in 
 support of the liberty of the subject, beyond those provided 
 by the constitution of Lamego, happily received the sanction 
 of the states. His character, given by Camoens in the Lusiad, 
 is truly just : — ■ 
 
 Though sprung from youthful passion's wanton loves, 
 Great Pedro's son in noble soul he proves. 
 
 In aid of his natural talents John I. had received an excellent 
 education from his father, and during his reign exhibited proofs 
 of being a profound politician, as well as a skilful general. 
 His honour and candour were unimpeachable ; and the steadi- 
 ness and liberality of his principles were such, as to ensure 
 him the attachment of the wise, and the grateful affections of 
 the people at large. His noble regard for the interests of the 
 legitimate heir in captivity, when offered the crown by the 
 Cortes, was a pledge to the Portuguese nation of the disin- 
 terestedness and elevation of his sentiments. He became the 
 founder of a new dynasty of kings, called the house of " Avis," 
 from his having been grand master of that noble order. 
 
 The enterprises, however, of the great Prince Henry, a son 
 of John I., form a distinguishing feature of this reign. The 
 numerous military expeditions to Africa at the period alluded 
 to, led to a boldness^ of adventure in navigation hitherto un- 
 known. From the rock of Sagres this prince directed the 
 equipment of the vessels which discovered Madeira, and esta- 
 blished the Portuguese in the possession of the Canary islands. 
 
3G PORTUGAL 
 
 He, in fact, commenced the grand system of maritime disco- 
 veries, which were carried to so glorious an extent under the 
 succeeding monarchs, and which finally produced a total change 
 in the character of European commerce. 
 
 That dreadful scourge, the plague, afflicted Portugal se- 
 verely at this time ; and both John and Edward his immediate 
 successor in the monarchy, fell victims to its prevailing viru- 
 lence, as did afterwards Alphonso V. in 1481, During the 
 reign of the latter monarch, denominated the " African," the 
 science of navigation made great advances under the fostering 
 protection of the great Henry, Duke of Viseu, the brother of 
 the deceased Edward. Whilst Alphonso was pursuing his 
 conquests in Africa, and establishing in Portugal the military 
 order of the Tower and Sword, the Portuguese navigators were 
 adding new discoveries to the acquisitions previously made 
 upon the coast of Guinea, — were passing the equinoctial linCj 
 and, in the spirit of fearless adventure, leading on to the dis- 
 closure of a maritime route to India. 
 
 Peace having been made with Ferdinand V. of Spain, on the 
 solemn renunciation by the King of Portugal of all pretensions 
 to the crown of Castile, the succeeding sovereign, John H., 
 surnamed " the Great," was at leisure to repress the arrogance 
 of his tyrannical nobles, and circumscribe their enjoyment of 
 privileges, the exercise of which was dangerous to the liber- 
 ties of the people, and derogatory from the dignity of the 
 crown. Maritime discoveries were now pursued with re- 
 doubled energy and spirit ; the southernmost point of Africa, 
 " the Cape of Tempests," was doubled by Bartholomeo Dias ; 
 further information was procured about the productions of 
 India; and regulations were made for a commercial intercourse 
 with that distant region by. sea. The celebrated line of de- 
 marcation, which pretended to define the limits of the Spanish 
 and Portuguese territorial discoveries, was sanctioned during 
 this reign by Pope Alexander VI. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 37 
 
 The most brilliant periods, however, of Portuguese history are 
 to be found in the reign of Emmanuel, surnamed the " Fortu- 
 nate," and in that of his successor John III. Under these two 
 princes, the extensive empire of the Portuguese in India was 
 established, of which the mere wreck remains to them at the 
 present day. 
 
 In the third year of Emmanuel's reign, Vasco da Gama 
 passed the Cape which had now received the denomination 
 of Good Hope ; visited the coast of CafFraria, in the Indian 
 ocean ; Mosambique and Melinda, on the coast of Zanguebar ; 
 and finally reached Calicut, on the west coast of the peninsula 
 of Hindostan. The discovery of Brasil also is to be referred 
 to this period, and to the accident of contrary winds, which 
 carried Alvar6s Cabral out of his course to India, and drove 
 him upon the eastern shore of South America. About the 
 same time, Caspar Cortereal pushed his discoveries in North 
 America up to between 51 and 69° north latitude; and Am6- 
 rico Vespucci, a Florentine, in the service of Portugal, took 
 final possession of the territory of Brasil in the name of the 
 King of Portugal. Antoine of Almeida, Alphonso Albuquer- 
 que, Sigueira, Abreu, and Perez Andrade, emulated the suc- 
 cess of their mighty predecessor in Indian navigation, da 
 Gama, in the conquest of numerous countries, and by their 
 annexation to the Portuguese crown. Perez Andrade was 
 the first European who reached China by the ocean. Albu- 
 querque opened the Red Sea to the navigation of Portuguese 
 vessels, and established the seat of his sovereign's government 
 in India at Goa, on the coast of Malabar, which in a few 
 years, became the rival of Lisbon in extent of wealth and 
 commercial prosperity. The insults offered to da Gama and 
 his officers by the Moors, on his first appearance in the Indian 
 seas, and the injuries which from a spirit of commercial jealousy 
 they inflicted upon him at Calicut, were amply revenged 
 
38 PORTUGAL 
 
 upon their brethren in faith by the success of the Portuguese 
 arms in several parts on the coast of eastern Africa. 
 
 The following reign of John III. presents another glorious 
 epoch in the history of navigation and commerce, and of the 
 extension and confirmation of the Portuguese dominion through- 
 out the coasts of the Indian ocean. Lisbon and Goa became 
 the Tyre and Sidon of the age ; and Brasil was making rapid 
 strides in civilisation and national prosperity, from the intro- 
 duction of agriculture, and the formation of numerous military 
 and commercial establishments on its coasts by the Portu- 
 guese. 
 
 At home, great improvements were effected in the internal 
 concerns of the kingdom ; sage laws were promulged, towns 
 enlarged and fortified, the academic system at Coimbra re- 
 formed, and religion protected by episcopal institutions. The 
 glory, however, of this great sovereign was sadly tarnished by 
 his establishment of the scourging tribunal of the Inquisition, 
 whose iniquities and barbarous cruelties in the east and in 
 Europe, furnish, even to a late period, pages in the history of 
 Portugal stained with human blood. The pernicious effects 
 resulting from the erection of this awful power, the right arm 
 of the papal system, were almost immediately evidenced in 
 the paralysed machinery of government, in the debasement of 
 the public mind, in the arrested progress of the sciences and 
 the arts, in the degradation of religion and morals, and, in 
 short, in the total interruption of all the influences which con- 
 tribute to the civilisation and well-being of a people. 
 
 A dreadful earthquake occurred during this reign, by which 
 nearly 30,000 persons perished ; and Lisbon, Santarem, and 
 Almeirim, were entirely destroyed. 
 
 In the eastern world, the celebrated viceroy, John de Cas- 
 tro, was about this time effecting the total conquest of the im- 
 portant island of Diu, in the gulf of Cambay ; and Anthony 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 39 
 
 de Mota was establishing commercial relations between the 
 mother-country and the rich empire of Japan, — when the 
 monarch, John III. died, leaving his crown to his infant 
 grandson, Sebastian, under the regency of his queen, Catha- 
 rine of Austria. 
 
 Educated by the Jesuits, Sebastian had early imbibed the 
 prejudices, and contracted the habits of a recluse, and, in truth, 
 by the temperament of his mind, was better qualified for a 
 cloister than a throne. His worthy instructors had infected 
 his imagination with a taste for crusading, which, at that pe- 
 riod, consisted of sundry descents upon the Moorish coasts, in 
 the genuine spirit of Jesuitical persecution. In one of these 
 expeditions, at the famous battle of Alca^far, in the kingdom 
 of Fez, where he sought to signalise himself against the Moors, 
 he perished, or rather disappeared for a time ; since it is re- 
 lated of him that he subsequently did appear at Venice, as- 
 serting his identity, and claiming the protection of that re- 
 public, — that he was at length seized upon by the Spaniards 
 at Naples, and thence conveyed to Spain, where he passed 
 the remainder of his days in close confinement. It is, indeed, 
 just possible that the body of Sebastian, exhibited to the Por- 
 tuguese at Lisbon, in proof of his death, was a state trick, 
 played off upon the nation in order to continue the crown in 
 the possession of the Spaniard ; and that the unfortunate mo- 
 narch did live, after the battle of Alcazar, to repent, amid the 
 horrors of a Spanish dungeon, of the follies and the errors of 
 his youth, and of the debasing education which he had re- 
 ceived from the Jesuits, his bigoted instructors. But the po- 
 sitive truth of this romantic tale is about as apparent as that of 
 its equal in depth and mystery, the Masque de Fer, and the 
 numerous solutions published of that memorable enigma. 
 However, it must be observed, to the credit of Portuguese 
 loyalty, if not to their good sense, that, even at this day, there 
 remains in Portugal a sect denominated Sebastianists, who 
 
40 PORTUGAL 
 
 actually look for the return of the unfortunate king to his do- 
 minions, and hold it as a point of established belief. This 
 battle of Alcazar, in which the Portuguese were defeated, was 
 attended with these three remarkable circumstances : the 
 death or disappearance of Sebastian ; the fall of his enemy, the 
 usurper Moluc, from previous exhaustion by a severe illness, 
 in the heat of the battle ; and that, likewise, of the friend and 
 ally of Sebastian, Mulei Mahomet, who was drowned in his 
 flight. 
 
 Some of the Corcundas, or Absolutists, recently gave out at 
 Lisbon, that Sebastian would come back in the person of Don 
 Miguel ; but, although credulity is one of the virtues of the 
 Portuguese, it does not appear that this report has made any 
 very great impression upon the public mind. 
 
 The glory and power of Portugal underwent considerable 
 diminution during the reign of this weak sovereign, Sebastian; 
 but one of its chief disgraces was the " cold neglect" expe- 
 rienced at court by the immortal Camoens, the ornament of 
 his age and country : — 
 
 Unheard, in vain, their native poet sings, 
 And cold neglect weighs down the Muse's wings. 
 E'en he, whose veins the blood of Gama warms. 
 Walks by unconscious of the Muse's charms. — L. b. v. 
 
 Dying without issue, in fact having never been married, Se- 
 bastian was succeeded in the possession of the Portuguese 
 sceptre by his paternal uncle, the Cardinal Henry ; who, to 
 the decrepitude of age, added the other eminent disqualifica- 
 tions for a crown, of narrowness of views, illiberality of pur- 
 pose, and a childish taste for the fables of the Romish friars, 
 with all the fictitious miracles and inscriptions, which were 
 imported at this time in great quantities from the east with 
 other piore valuable commodities. The misfortunes of the 
 Portuguese nation may be said to have commenced in reality 
 at his deatb, when the succession to the crown was disputed. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 41 
 
 and the question abruptly decided by force of arms in favour 
 of Philip II. of Spain, under the command of his general the 
 Duke of Alba. 
 
 It is a curious circumstance that this national misfortune 
 should have afforded an opportunity of offering the highest 
 tribute of praise to the memory of Camoens. It is related by 
 a Portuguese historian, that Philip II., amidst the various 
 affairs of importance, which must necessarily have engaged his 
 attention on his occupation of Portugal, made inquiries after 
 Camoens, and desired that he might be brought before him ; 
 observing, that having read his poem, he greatly admired it, 
 and wished to have the pleasure of seeing its author. When 
 he was informed that Camoens had expired shortly before his 
 arrival, the Spanish monarch is said to have been greatly 
 affected. Camoens was luckily spared this interview with the 
 usurper, which would in all probability have broken his pa- 
 triotic and loyal heart. 
 
 During the sixty years (1580 to 1640) of the Spanish domi- 
 nation in Portugal, that is, of Philip II., Philip III., and 
 Philip IV., the treasures of the state were dissipated, its mari- 
 time and military force completely disorganised, its commercial 
 prosperity totally destroyed, and the richest domains and co- 
 lonies torn from the crown. The national antipathy of the 
 Portuguese to the name of Spaniard, was aggravated by these 
 losses and disasters. Before this period the Portuguese en- 
 joyed the commerce of the Indian seas exclusively, and Lisbon 
 was the grand mart or emporium where the Dutch could 
 alone purchase eastern produce for the consumption of the 
 north of Europe. 
 
 It suited, however, the policy of Philip II. to interdict the 
 Hollanders from the continuance of this traffic, so beneficial to 
 both countries ; a measure which led the Dutch to trade di- 
 rectly themselves with India, and ultimately to their possess- 
 
42 PORTUGAL 
 
 ing themselves of the principal colonies of the Portuguese in 
 the east, and consequently of their commerce. 
 
 Portugal was hastening to the degraded condition of a mere 
 dependent province of Spain, when, in the year 1640, a revolt 
 took place in Catalonia, which furnished sufficient employment 
 for the armies of the Spanish monarch. Availing themselves 
 of this favourable opportunity, the Portuguese cleared the 
 country of the Spaniards, and re-established the independence 
 of their kingdom by the election (1640) of the Duke of Bra- 
 ganza to its sovereignty ; nor were they interrupted by their 
 late tyrannical masters, who had become themselves the prey 
 of intestine discord, and were therefore too weak to attempt, 
 with any hope of success, the re-conquest of the lost territory. 
 
 John -IV. (the founder of the Braganza dynasty) was de- 
 scended in a direct line from Alphonso, the natural son of 
 John I. (surnamed the Bastard,) who conferred this dukedom 
 upon Alphonso in 1442. His first care was to procure a 
 recognition of his right to the crown by an assembly of the 
 states at Lisbon, where it was declared that his claims were 
 indefeasible, through the Infanta Catharine, his grandmother, 
 (the daughter of the Infante Edward,) who had been unjustly 
 deprived of her inheritance to the crown by the Spanish 
 monarch at the death of Cardinal Henry. In order to the 
 further security of his throne, he concluded treaties of alliance 
 with France, the United Provinces, and Sweden ; but not- 
 withstanding these engagements in Europe, and an admitted 
 intermission of mutual hostilities in the east, the Dutch con- 
 tinued their conquests, and finally possessed themselves of 
 almost all the colonial establishments of the Portuguese in 
 Hindostan, Africa, and Brasil. 
 
 At his decease, the crown passed to Alphonso VI., his 
 eldest son, then an infant, under the guardianship of Louisa, 
 the queen-mother. France having formally renounced, by 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 43 
 
 treaty, its protection of Portugal, the Spaniards renewed their 
 attempts upon the independence of the Portuguese with 
 greater animosity than ever; and Alphonso found himself 
 compelled, for the preservation of his crown, to establish an 
 alliance with England in 1661. Tangiers in Africa, and the 
 island of Bombay, were ceded to the British government as 
 the dowry of the infanta who married Charles II. of England. 
 During this time, France likewise, perfectly aware of her 
 interest in maintaining the integrity of Portugal, was, though 
 bound by treaty to the Spaniards, rendering covertly to the 
 Portuguese all the assistance in her power. At length the 
 victories of Almexial, near Estremos, in 1663, and of Montes 
 Claros, 1665, where the Spaniards were completely defeated, 
 triumphantly confirmed the independence of Portugal. 
 
 The war of Spanish succession having broken out, the court 
 of Lisbon re-established an open alliance with France ; which 
 induced the Spaniards at length to withdraw their preten- 
 sions, and to acknowledge the independent sovereignty of the 
 Portuguese monarch. In the meanwhile, Alphonso had ren- 
 dered himself an object of hatred and contempt to the nation 
 by his vicious and debauched habits, and by the evidences of 
 a savage and brutal disposition. It was with the concurrence, 
 therefore, of the court, (should it be rather said, through the 
 intrigues of his queen ?) that he was dethroned by his brother 
 Peter, who, during his life, governed as regent, having pro- 
 cured the sanction of the Pope for his own marriage with the 
 Princess Mary, the wife of the deposed Alphonso. 
 
 Shortly after his accession to the throne, the influence of 
 England withdrew Peter II. from fulfilling his engagements 
 with the French, and forced him into a reciprocal treaty of 
 restitution of conquests with the Spaniard. The peace con- 
 eluded at the Hague, in 1669, with the Dutch, allowed them 
 to retain possession of all the places which they had wrested 
 from the Portuguese in Africa and the East Indies. Yielding 
 
44 PORTUGAL 
 
 to the persuasions of England and Austria, Peter subsequently 
 (1703) joined the grand alliance with England, against France 
 and Philip V. ; and, marching to Madrid with the British 
 auxiliaries, proclaimed Charles of Austria sovereign of Spain. 
 It was then that the celebrated treaty, negociated so success- 
 fully by our ambassador at the court of Lisbon, Methuen, was 
 concluded, by which Portugal bound herself to receive the 
 woollen cloths of British manufacture ; and England in return 
 to admit the importation of the wines of the Douro, the Mon- 
 dego, and Tagus, at one third less duty than that imposed 
 upon the introduction of French wines. 
 
 The celebrated ministry of the " Portuguese Colbert," the 
 Count of Ericeira, contributed in this reign to the renovation 
 of the finances of the state, and to the establishment of cloth 
 manufactories ; but in the following, the expectations, — the 
 just expectancies of Portugal from the treaty of Utrecht, with 
 respect to the being put into possession of certain strong 
 places in Spanish Estremadura and Galicia, as a barrier 
 against future aggression, were shamefully disappointed ; and 
 the single advantage which she derived from that general 
 peace, was the recovery from Spain of her colony Saint Sa- 
 qrament, {Sacramento,') upon the northern bank of the river 
 Plata. France, however, it should be added, did at this time 
 (John v., 1713) recognise the right of Portugal to the pro- 
 priety and sovereignty of the establishments formed by 
 herself on both banks of the river Amazon, and renounced 
 also all claims upon the territory situated between that river 
 and Vincent, to the south of Rio Janeiro in Brasil, where the 
 recent discovery of the gold mines promised an almost inex- 
 haustible source of wealth to the mother-country. 
 
 In order to purchase from the Pope the title of " Most 
 Faithful," and to procure the elevation of the ecclesiastical 
 establishment at Lisbon into a patriarchate, and in the con- 
 struction of the immense edifice at Mafra, at once a palace 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 45 
 
 and a convent, this imbecile and immoral monarch (Joao V.) 
 prodigally lavished the treasures of the kingdom ; and even 
 the new sources of national wealth opened to him in the 
 discovery of the diamond mines of Brasil, were scarcely ade- 
 quate to support his impolitic and wasteful expenditure. In 
 the latter days of his injurious reign, he abandoned himself 
 altogether to the practice of religious austerities ; and as if to 
 ensure the further misery of his country, he resigned the 
 reins of government into the hands of a Franciscan friar, — an 
 intriguing, worldly-minded, false ascetic, by whose misrule 
 the most shameful abuses were introduced into the govern- 
 ment, the army became disorganised, and the finances of the 
 country were nearly ruined. 
 
 It was the glory of the succeeding monarch, (Joseph, 1750,) 
 under the celebrated administration of Sebastian Carvalho, 
 subsequently created Count of Oeyras, and Marquess of 
 Pombal, to effect the reform of many abuses, which the 
 ecclesiastical rule in the former reign had been the cause of 
 introducing into all the departments of state. Considering the 
 condition of things in Portugal at his accession to power, and 
 the moral and the political influences prevailing at the time, 
 and beyond all, the paralysing powers of an ambitious clergy, — 
 the ministry of the Marquess of Pombal forms one of the most 
 wonderful periods in the history of Portugal. To a certain 
 degree he may be regarded as entitled to have it recorded of 
 him, that he restored the king to the independent exercise of 
 his royal ajithority, and that he became himself the renovator 
 of his country, by determining the just bounds between the 
 safety of the kingdom, and the arrogant assumptions of the 
 priesthood. 
 
 The most inveterate enemies with whom Pombal had to 
 contend, in the prosecution of his great work of reform, were 
 the Jesuits, whom, however, he finally succeeded in expel- 
 ling the kingdom. Some turbulent religious corporations. 
 
46 PORTUGAL 
 
 whose pretensions were also inconsistent with the welfare of 
 the country, he entirely suppressed ; forbidding the religious 
 massacres of an auto da fe, — restraining the sanguinary cruel- 
 ties hitherto practised by the Inquisition, — and abolishing all 
 distinction between the " old" and " new Christians," which 
 in previous times had been so impoliticly acknowledged, and 
 had led to such tremendous consequences. 
 
 The restoration of the advantages of commerce, the reorga- 
 nisation of the finance, — the re-establishment of the naval and 
 military power of the country, — the security of the frontiers 
 by the erection of new fortifications, — the encouragement of 
 the liberal arts and sciences, — the establishment of various 
 manufactories, — improvements in agriculture, — an increase of 
 population, — the institution of primary schools, and a whole- 
 some reform in the academic system of education at Coimbra, 
 — were the principal measures of his administration. The 
 inflexible and imperious severity, however, with which he 
 opposed the several interests established, and really so preju- 
 dicial to the state, naturally excited against him considerable 
 animosity in the nation. There appears to have been no dis* 
 position, on the part of the Marquess, to conciliate parties, as 
 well as remove abuses. His haughty contempt for the rights 
 and claims of the Fidalguia, and his establishment of privi- 
 leged companies, to the prejudice of the business of private 
 merchants, added to the prevailing hostility against his mode 
 of government. 
 
 The character given of him in the travels of the German, 
 Link,— which is quoted here in the words of his translator, 
 Hinckley,— may perhaps altogether be allowed to be a fair 
 account of the Marquess : — 
 
 " The Marquess is still called by the common people, ' 
 GRANDE Marques ;' a phrase also used solely by some foreign 
 merchants, not English, while every one else expressed the 
 greatest hatred for his memory. The rich speak of Pombal's 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 47 
 
 reig^ as a system of terror, during which, when the minister's 
 approach was announced at a distance, every window and door 
 was shut. It is not to be doubted that he was a minister who 
 wished the good of the country for the sake of his own repu- 
 tation ; but it also cannot be denied that he seldom employed 
 the best means of accomplishing that end. Of this the mise- 
 rable remains of his hat-manufactory at Pombal is an instance, 
 while another at Braga has a considerable sale. But how 
 was it possible that a manufactory should succeed in this un- 
 peopled country, where agriculture requires all the hands that 
 can be found, and even more ? and why did Pombal never be- 
 stow his attention on roads, bridges, and canals, excepting for 
 a few yards round the town of his name? Whence those trifling 
 provocations of the priesthood, which contributed nothing to 
 enlighten the people," (which did enlighten the people,) " and 
 procured him" (naturally) " implacable enemies ? At first he 
 was desirous of establishing manufactures everywhere, then 
 changed his object to agriculture, and then to the fishery ; in 
 short, he began everything at the wrong end. Ever despotic, 
 proud, and cruel, he never attained the object of his improve- 
 ments ; and eveii the common people, whom he favoured now 
 and then, no longer remember him with the feeling of love, 
 but, on the contrary, rejoice at his fall. But nothing gives 
 probability to the idea that he himself formed a plot against 
 the king's life, in order to sacrifice a part of the nobility to his 
 resentment. This idea certainly prevailed, was seized with 
 avidity by the nobility and clergy, and the queen herself," (at 
 whose accession to the throne the priests and nobles procured 
 the dismissal of Pombal from the court, and several acts of his 
 administration were revoked,) " who believed it, busied her- 
 self in her delirium with the innocence of those who had been 
 condemned. But had this suspicion been founded, there 
 would have been no delay in restoring everything to its former 
 state. Nothing, however, was done to remove this disgrace 
 
48 PORTUGAL 
 
 from the memory of the condemned; though a son of the 
 Duke of Aveiro" (one of the executed conspirators with the 
 Jesuits) " lives in retirement, and the son of the Marquess of 
 Pombal in great style at Lisbon. After a revision, indeed, 
 of the proceedings, it w^as found best to leave this affair in 
 peace. The column of disgrace on the site of the house of 
 the Duke of Aveiro at Belem," (which was levelled to the 
 ground at the time of the duke's decapitation,) " still remains, 
 though some shops have been erected beside it to hide the 
 inscription ; a just symbol of the conduct of the nation on this 
 subject, for what they cannot alter they strive to conceal." 
 
 The attempted assassination of the king, alluded to, was 
 made upon him as he was proceeding in his carriage upon the 
 night of the 3d of September, 1768, to Belem. 
 
 The Jesuits in the Portuguese colony of S. Sacrament had 
 already been justly suspected of interfering, with a view to 
 the maintenance of their own usurped authority, against the 
 execution of the treaty which exchanged that territory with 
 France, for the portion of the country of Paraguay situated 
 upon the eastern bank of the Uruguay. The consequence of 
 these intrigues of the Sacramento Jesuits, was a bloody and 
 expensive war of considerable duration between France and 
 Portugal. These disturbers of the national repose were at 
 length however pursued and hunted down as traitors to the 
 crown ; their goods were confiscated, and their persons exiled 
 to the dominions of the Pope ; and at length all Europe, and 
 even the court of Rome itself, concurred in the suppression of 
 this mischievous and dangerous order, — an event of more 
 importance even than the expulsion of the Moors- from Spain, 
 to the cause of moral and religious freedom, nay, to that of 
 the Christian religion itself. 
 
 The dreadful earthquake which took place at Lisbon during 
 this reign, destroying the greater part of the city and the lives 
 of thirty thousand inhabitants, and to which were added the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 49 
 
 horrors of fire and famine, served only as a new cause of 
 excitement for the genius of Pombal, in offering it a wider and 
 more difficult field of exertion. The narrative of this catas- 
 trophe, as of the rapidity with which the erection of the new 
 city rose in greater splendour than ever, under the energetic 
 measures adopted by the Marquess, shall be fully detailed 
 when we bring you to our rambles in the streets of Lisbon. 
 
 In 1762 the Spaniards possessed themselves of the fortress 
 of Almeida, which was restored to Portugal by the treaty of 
 Paris in the following year, when the former relations between 
 the two countries were restored. 
 
 Joseph died in 1777, leaving his crown to his daughter 
 Mary, conjointly with his younger brother, Peter III., to 
 whom she had been already married. 
 
 The first act of the new government was the revocation of 
 several wholesome edicts, passed against the ecclesiastics in 
 the last reign, through the instrumentality of the Marquess of 
 Pombal, and the restoration of a part of the clergy, monastic 
 and secular, to their former consideration in the state. The 
 long wars between Spain and Portugal, in South America, 
 were happily terminated by the treaty of St. Ildefonso, when 
 the latter country was finally restored to the undisturbed 
 possession of thp most valuable of its colonies in Paraguay. 
 At home, agriculture, manufactories, and commerce, were 
 making considerable advances ; and by the abolition of the 
 Brazilian, African, and Indian companies, the advantages of 
 those trades were left freely open to every individual merchant 
 in the kingdom. Additional schools were created for the 
 popular diffusion of mechanical knowledge and of the liberal 
 arts ; the civil enactments of the preceding reigns were col- 
 lected into one body, and methodically arranged; and the 
 inestimably valuable foundations of a royal library and an 
 academy of sciences were established in Lisbon, for the benefit 
 of the people at Jarge. 
 
 Port. D 
 
50 PORTUGAL 
 
 The establishment, however, of the Convent of Estrella, 
 dedicated by the Queen, with the sanction of the Pope, to the 
 heart of Jesus, is at once a disgraceful proof of the corruption 
 and venality of the court of Rome, — as it was, at the time, to 
 the Portuguese nation, of a mind, originally imbecile, at length 
 beginning to sink altogether under the rigorous exercise of 
 confessionary discipline. The extent of her mental malady 
 became such at last, as totally to incapacitate her for the 
 management or control of state affairs, and to place the reins 
 of government in the hands of her son, the Prince of Brasil, 
 subsequently known to us as Dom Joao VI. 
 
 During the regency, Portugal joined the first coalition 
 against the French republic in 1793, and again armed against 
 French aggression in 1799. 
 
 Upon the death of his mother in 1816, Joa5 VI. assumed 
 the sceptre of Portugal, endeared to his subjects by the expe- 
 rience, which they had already enjoyed in either empire, of 
 his mild and amiable disposition during the seventeen years 
 of his regency. His marriage, however, with Charlotte, the 
 daughter of Charles IV. of Spain, neither contributed to his 
 domestic happiness, nor, as subsequent events have shown, to 
 the general welfare and tranquillity of the kingdom. The 
 Spaniard has always been the inveterate foe of liberal and 
 enlightened institutions in Portugal, and the leading principle 
 of his policy has ever directed him to aim at the extinction of 
 the Portuguese monarchy. A connection with Spain, there- 
 fore, is the most injurious compact in which the interests of 
 Portugal can be committed. 
 
 In the early part of John's rule as regent, Portugal enjoyed 
 the utmost possible prosperity in agriculture, general industry, 
 manufactures, commerce, and in the advancement of literature. 
 In 1801, however, he declared war against France and Spain ; 
 which was renewed in 1807, when the hostile alliance com- 
 pelled him to embark with his family for Brasil, and the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 61 
 
 French troops took possession of his capital and kingdom. 
 General Junot being appointed governor of the Portuguese 
 territory. An insurrection broke out against the French in 
 the following year, of which the British government availed 
 itself to render succours to its ally, and to force the evacuation 
 of Portugal by the French troops. The next invasion of 
 Portugal by the French was under the Duke of Dalmatia in 
 1 809, who was driven over the frontiers by the British and 
 Portuguese troops from the Vouga, in the neighbourhood of 
 Aveiro. The third attempt of the French army upon Por- 
 tugal in 1810, under the command of the " spoiled child of 
 fortune," Massena, was equally unsuccessful ; for he was 
 compelled to relinquish every attempt upon Lisbon, and 
 finally to make an abrupt retreat from before the British lines 
 on the heights of Torres Vedras, which extended across the 
 country from the Atlantic to Alhandra on the Tagus. 
 
 From 1811 to 1814, the Portuguese army, now completely 
 re-organized by Lord Beresford, was in the field with the 
 British troops under the Duke of Wellington ; assisted in 
 ultimately driving the various armies of France out of Spain, 
 across the Pyrenees ; and bore a glorious part in the memo- 
 rable battle under the walls of Toulouse, when Soult was 
 completely defeated. 
 
 Brasil was elevated to the dignity of a kingdom in 1815, 
 when Dom Joao assumed the title of Sovereign of the united 
 kingdoms of Portugal, Brasil, and the two Algarves. The 
 ruinous war which had begun between the Portuguese govern- 
 ment at Rio Janeiro and that of the republic of Buenos Ayres, 
 in 1812, was continued with renewed animosity from 1817 
 to 1821 ; when the King, having accepted the basis of the 
 constitution promulgated by the national congress, and ap- 
 pointed the Prince Royal his viceroy in Brasil, embarked for 
 Europe. 
 
 His reception by the Cortes at Lisbon was unworthy of the 
 representatives of a constitutional government, and contri- 
 
52 PORTUGAL 
 
 buted to create a dislike to the constitutional system, the first 
 fruits of which appeared to the loyal Portuguese to be evi- 
 denced in the insults offered by its advocates and supporters, 
 gratuitously, to a sovereign w^hose misfortunes should alone 
 have been sufficient to recommend him to their affections. 
 Outraged as the amiable monarch was by those unworthy 
 members of whom the Cortes was at that time composed, 
 on his return to the palaces of his ancestors, and trembling 
 in their hands like a victim before the altar, not of constitu- 
 tional liberty, but before gross imbecility and selfish ignorance, 
 the stones themselves would have cried out, had not the ge- 
 neral feeling of the various classes of society in Portugal been 
 loudly expressed, and in very intelligible and practical language, 
 in favour of their much injured sovereign. There is no par- 
 doning soi-disants liberaux, who prove themselves, by their own 
 acts, to be the greatest enemies of the sacred dignity of liberty. 
 It has been the lot, perhaps, of few monarchs to drain so 
 deeply the dregs of misfortune, as Dom Joao VI. Expelled, in 
 the first instance, from the land of his forefathers by the suc- 
 cess of the French armies, which was greatly promoted by the 
 treachery of his own subjects ; then, on the eve of his departure 
 for Europe, nearly falling a victim to popular insurrection at 
 Rio Janeiro ; next insulted by the Cortes on his arrival in the 
 Tagus ; subsequently made the sport of contending factions in 
 the state ; at last compelled by the force of circumstances to 
 yield up his sovereignty over the empire of Brasil, retaining only 
 by sufferance the empty title of emperor ; he had to endure the 
 further misery of seeing his faithless queen dishonour the name 
 by her many profligacies, and join in the intrigues of the vilest 
 cabals against his throne and against his life. As if any thing 
 else, too, had been wanting to make the cup of his bitterness 
 run over, in Don Miguel, his youngest son, he found the willing 
 tool of traitors, and narrowly escaped the premeditated act of 
 parricide by taking refuge, in a covert manner, on board a 
 British man of war, at anchor in the Tagus. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 53 
 
 The monarch's affecting address to his rebel son after these 
 
 events, is a sufficient evidence of the intenseness of his mental 
 
 • . . . . 
 
 sufferings, as of the injuries which he had met with in his own 
 
 family. 
 
 An account of the progress of the Constitution, from its 
 commencement at Porto in August, 1820, through all its 
 various mutations, down to the Constitution of Don Pedro — 
 feliciter vortat — is reserved for the subject of a future letter ; 
 we will now merely make this remark, that it was the good 
 offices of England which at last brought about the reconcilia- 
 tion of the two countries, after Don Pedro had declared the 
 independence of Brasil, and its separation from the mother- 
 country, and had caused himself to be proclaimed Emperor ; 
 but not, unhappily, before the intervention of other nations had 
 dispossessed Portugal of a considerable portion of the import 
 trade into Brasil, — the consequence of the folly of the Portu- 
 guese government, — and which valuable branch of commerce 
 never will the Portuguese be able to recover exclusive posses- 
 sion of again. 
 
 Dom Joao VI. died at the palace of Bemposta, in the vici- 
 nity of Lisbon, March 10, 1826; not from poison, as has 
 been falsely asserted, but from an inflammation of the stomach 
 and bowels, with the affliction also, during the last hours of 
 his existence, of violent epileptic fits, to which his family is 
 much subject, but which he had never experienced before. 
 He was attended during his illness by the court physician, an 
 English gentleman of considerable skill and reputation, for- 
 merly attached to the staff of Lord Beresford. In his pre- 
 sence the royal corpse was opened, and a faithful report was 
 made, by the same authority, of all the symptoms of the 
 sovereign's fatal distemper, to the British ministry. 
 , Don Pedro IV., Emperor of Brasil, was acknowledged so- 
 vereign of Portugal, by right of succession, upon the death of 
 his father. The regency appointed by the dying monarch, and. 
 confirmed by the Emperor under his sister Izabel-Maria, is in a 
 
54 PORTUGAL 
 
 short time to devolve upon Don Miguel, his brother, whom he 
 has destined to become the husband of his daughter, Donna 
 Maria da Gloria, now under age. During her minority, the 
 Infante Don Miguel will, by the appointment of the Emperor, 
 act as his lieutenant in the regency of the kingdom of Portugal 
 and the Algarves, conformably to the terms of the constitu- 
 tional charter, and according to the form of the following 
 
 DECREE. 
 
 For many very weighty reasons which are worthy of my royal consideration, 
 and reflecting that the safety and security of the state is and always ought to 
 be the supreme law for every sovereign who desires only the happiness of his 
 subjects, and taking into my royal consideration the intelligence, activity, and 
 frankness, and character of the Infante Don Miguel, my much beloved and 
 esteemed brother, I think fit to appoint him my Lieutenant, giving him all the 
 powers which belong to me as King of Portugal and the Algarves, and which 
 are laid down in the Constitutional Charter, in order that he may govern these 
 Kingdoms conformably with the said Charter. The same Infante Don Miguel, 
 my beloved and esteemed brother, will see to the execution of this Decree. 
 (Signed by his Majesty) THE KING. 
 
 Palace of Rio de Janeiro, July 3, 1827. 
 
 Donna Maria da Gloria II., on attaining the age prescribed 
 by the Emperor, and acknowledged by the Cortes as her 
 majority, will assume full possession of the crown of Portugal, 
 and reign conjointly with her husband Don Miguel. The two 
 crowns of Portugal and Brasil will be by this arrangement 
 entirely disunited. The imperial family of Austria, from their 
 ties of relationship with the young Queen, are deeply inte- 
 rested in, if not pledged to, the acknowledgment and assertion 
 of her rights to the Portuguese sceptre. 
 
 The troublesome custom-house officers have just come on 
 board, and are rudely importunate, by their gestures, to turn 
 us passengers out of the ship and in the custody of a soldier, 
 who seems more disposed to be civil than these consequential 
 gentlemen of the ]pok-ou,t service, whose savage demeanour is 
 only to be equalled by their meanness. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 55 
 
 The pen is at last, and doubtless to your relief, wrested 
 from us ; — the city of Lisbon, proudly crowning its many hills, 
 is now presented to our view in all its extent. We can think 
 of nothing but Lord Byron's lines, as applicable to the scene, 
 which we are beholding at this moment, and to the peculiar 
 circumstances of the time : — 
 
 What beauties doth Lisboa first unfold ! 
 Her image floating on that noble tide. 
 Which poets vainly pave with sands of gold ; 
 But now whereon a thousand keels did ride 
 Of mighty strength, since Albion was allied. 
 And to the Lusians did her aid afford : 
 A nation swoln with ignorance and pride. 
 Who lick, yet loathe, the hand that waves the sword 
 To save them from the wrath of Gaul's unsparing lord. 
 
 LAMP IN USE IN THE NORTH OF PORTUGAL. 
 
56 PORTUGAL 
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 But whoso entereth within this town. 
 That, sheening far, celestial seems to be. 
 Disconsolate will wander up and down 
 'Mid many things unsightly to strange ee ; 
 For hut and palace show like filthily : 
 The dingy denizens are reared in dirt ; 
 Ne personage of high or mean degree 
 Doth care for cleanness of surtout, or shirt. 
 Though shent with Egypt's plague, unkempt, unwashed, unhurt. 
 
 Childe Harold, canto 1. 
 
 Lisbon, 1827. 
 
 Our vessel has been towed up to its moorings from Belem 
 by men of war's boats, supplied from some of the British 
 ships at anchor in the Tagus. Without being permitted a 
 moment's delay, we have been hurried off into the police 
 boat, and placed under the charge of two soldiers, who are to 
 accompany us to the different offices, where it is necessary 
 that our passports should be countersigned, and that we 
 should undergo the always disagreeable operation of being 
 toised and centimetred in the true style of the great and polished 
 nation, before it becomes lawful to seek a domicile. 
 
 At the moment we landed at the foot of the packet- stairs, a 
 
ILLUSTRATED, 57 
 
 ludicrous instance of the infliction of summary punishment 
 occurred, which afforded us great amusement. Some quarrel, 
 it would seem, had arisen between some native boatmen and 
 a party of our jolly tars, who were waiting to take an officer 
 off" to his ship. The Portuguese had the temerity to strike 
 one of the British seamen with an oar, when the whole boat's 
 crew jumped aboard the Lusitanian, and trundled the Portu- 
 guese party into the water, — a case of no unusual occurrence, 
 as we afterwards learned. The packet-stairs are so called, it 
 is to be presumed, from there being no steps whatever to aid 
 the tottering traveller up one of the steepest and most difficult 
 ascents about Lisbon. It is no better than a goat's path, so 
 narrow and so perpendicular, that one slip of the feet might 
 be the means of precipitating the inexperienced passenger 
 upon the rocks beneath. Its denomination is derived from its 
 proximity to the anchorage ground of the Falmouth packets, 
 which it completely commands. The palace of the Conde 
 d'Obidos, to whom the surrounding property belongs, imme- 
 diately overhangs this inconvenient height. 
 
 We soon found ourselves in the principal street of Lisbon, 
 which, bearing different names, and winding over numerous 
 inequalities of ground and in various directions, extends the 
 whole length of the city, through a space. of more than six 
 miles along the banks of the Tagus. The heat had become 
 intolerable, but yet for three hours we were baudied about 
 from office to office, owing to the ignorance of our guards, and 
 from one authority to another, until at length, in . a state of 
 perfect exhaustion, we were ushered up five pair of stairs into 
 the chamber of an old escrivao, or notary public. Here we 
 complied with all the necessary formalities about our pass- 
 ports, and, paying our fees, were . conducted by the soldiers 
 to our hotel in the Rua do Prior, in the quarter of Buenos 
 Ayres, where we dismissed them with a small, gratuity. 
 The custom-house officers on board the packet had' refused 
 
58 PORTUGAL 
 
 us permission to take on shore any part of our baggage, and 
 we were consequently put to the greatest inconvenience, not 
 having even a change of linen with us ; nor was it until late 
 in the evening that bur sacs de nuit were delivered up, through 
 the interference of some of the friends who were awaiting our 
 arrival. Some excuse, however, for this rigorous treatment 
 was certainly to be found in the recent detection of an 
 attempt made by the steam-vessel from Gibraltar, to introduce 
 a vast quantity of British manufactures in a clandestine man- 
 ner, without payment of the usual duties. Consequently 
 every English ship, from the moment of its arrival in the 
 Tagus, has since been most strictly watched, and the cargo 
 scrupulously examined. We could not, therefore, but acqui- 
 esce with good humour in the necessity of these strong and 
 just measures of prevention for the sake of the revenue, how- 
 ever little of delicacy and management might be evinced in 
 the mode adopted for their being carried into execution. 
 Besides, it was gratifying to witness, in these two instances of 
 police and custom-house severity, experienced by an English- 
 man on landing in Portugal, while the British troops might 
 almost be said to be composing, at the moment, the garrison 
 of Lisbon, the uncontrolled freedom of the native authorities 
 in the exercise of their respective functions. We, as English- 
 men, were shown no favour ; and surely, under the peculiar 
 circumstances of the moment, it was not at all to be expected, 
 nor indeed to be desired, that we should meet with more 
 indulgence than the subjects of any other country, not con^ 
 nected with Portugal by such strict bonds of amity as our- 
 selves. 
 
 The evening of aur first day at Lisbon was rendered more 
 remarkable by the arrival in the Tagus of the British experi- 
 mental squadron, commanded by Sir Thom&s Hardy, which 
 received and returned the successive salutes of the Portuguese 
 forts and men of war at anchor before the city. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 59 
 
 The view from Buenos Ayres is delightful, commanding Al- 
 mada and the opposite heights, the river beyond Belem, and 
 almost down to the point of Traffraria ; an extended line of 
 vessels, of all descriptions and sizes, occupying its immense 
 breadth, — a considerable portion of the town, — to the east, 
 across the broader part of the Tagus, in the direction of Aldea 
 Gallega, and Moita, the town of Vendas de Palmela, charm- 
 ingly situated upon a hill of considerable elevation, connected 
 with the lofty Serra de Arrabida, and in a district celebrated 
 for its vineyards and orange-groves ; again to the west, the 
 Belem quarter of the city, the gardens of the Necessidades, 
 and intervening convents, churches, and palaces, up to the 
 magnificent palace, not yet completed, upon the height of 
 Ajuda, whence this royal residence has received its name. 
 The immediate view down to that part of the river where the 
 packets anchor, directly under the height of Buenos Ayres, is 
 across a vineyard of considerable length, and the street, into 
 which we first emerged from our rugged ascent of the packet- 
 stairs described above. Altogether no scenery can be more 
 varied, lively, arid interesting, than that which presents itself 
 in the prospect enjoyed from the windows of our hotel in the 
 Rua do Prior. 
 
 Our rambles in the streets of Lisbon soon convinced us of 
 the fidelity of that^ representation, which describes its filthy 
 abominations as not to be exaggerated, notwithstanding the 
 pompous adage of national pedantry. 
 
 Quern nao tern visto Lisboa 
 Nao tem visto cousa boa. 
 
 and which has its equal, perhaps, as to truth and importance, 
 as well as its origin, in the old Spanish vaunting proverb of 
 
 Qui^n no ha visto k Seyilla, 
 No ha yisto maravilla. 
 
 On our road up the ill-paved and steep streets leadkf to the 
 
GO PORTUGAL 
 
 Rua do Prior, we had already encountered numerous heaps of 
 disgusting filth, friars, dogs, and not many hundred yards from 
 the hotel, the carcase of a horse, which had fallen down during 
 the previous night, and was already exhibiting proofs of the 
 rapid way in which the Egyptian plague of flies effects its 
 , work in this country. The only tolerably pure air to be found 
 in the city, is upon the height of Buenos Ayres, according to 
 the comparatively true import of the appellation. We were 
 soon, too, made aware of the truth of that remark, with respect 
 to the horrifying exposure, in the crowded streets, by beggars, 
 of limbs in every stage and under every character of disease, — 
 that in Lisbon peripatetic lectures on morbid anatomy are 
 offered to the passenger at every turn. It was in vain that we 
 asked at any time for flowers to refresh our offended senses, 
 for none were to be procured. 
 
 Upon our arrival, we had learned that the Princess Regent 
 was gone to Caldas da Rainha, for the benefit of the sulfurous 
 waters, which are held in great repute. Numerous inquiries 
 were made of us, relative to the appearance of the Marquess 
 Palmella ; and the public mind seemed wound up to the 
 highest possible state of anxiety for his leaving the mission in ' 
 England, and returning to Portugal to assume the administra- 
 tion of affairs. 
 
 A short acquaintance with the aspect of political matters in 
 Lisbon has convinced us of the weakness and instability of the 
 present government, than which nothing could be worse, in 
 point of dishonesty, selfishness, base intrigue, and disunion, 
 resulting from the imbecility and mutual want of confidence in 
 each other exhibited by the drivellers in office at the moment; 
 and of the absolute and indispensable necessity, that the affairs 
 of the country should, without any loss of time, be committed 
 to the management of a virtuous and enlightened statesman, 
 whose commanding talents and energies of mind would be 
 well applied to the difficult task pf preserving uniformity of 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 61 
 
 principle, and a straight direction in the conduct of public 
 matters on the part of the government ; and, above all, in the 
 holding under due restraint the equally injurious violence of 
 the two contending parties of Corcunda and Constitutionalist, 
 as w^ell as to the annihilation of the dangerous influence of the 
 Camarilla at court. To judge from the language employed by 
 the two hostile factions ; from their mutual abuse and recrimi- 
 nations, and maliciously false statements about each other, the 
 exasperation of their feelings must have arrived at a serious 
 height, and it may soon be further evidenced by some overt 
 acts of tumult, and perhaps bloodshed. 
 
 The news continually arriving from Spain by private letters, 
 and the knowledge that the old queen, in her retirement at 
 Queluz, is keeping up a continual correspondence with her 
 brother's ministers at Madrid, and is meditating in her heart 
 schemes of sanguinary vengeance, serve only as fuel to feed the 
 fiery excitement of the public mind, in confirming the deadly 
 hate, and awakening the apprehensions of the one party, and 
 in elevating the bigoted hopes and evil expectations of the 
 other. For the moment the mutable breath of the multitude 
 is with the Constitutionalists, but from popular feeling and in- 
 terference, no good whatever can arise to the state, and parti- 
 cularly from such a population, whose miserable ignorance and 
 moral degradation exceed all belief. A fresh stimulus top has 
 just been applied to the worst passions of the rabble, in the 
 retirement from office of the war minister Saldanha ; and ad- 
 vantage has been taken of his voluntary resignation to excite a 
 general alarm for the security of the constitution, and suspi- 
 cions of the Princess Regent's fidelity to Don Pedro and to 
 her oath. Noisy Reclaimers, and dealers in extemporaneous 
 doggerel, have sprung from the occasion into ephemeral notice, 
 and are hailed by the people as the patriots, the poets, and 
 the orators of the day. The most envenomed class of society 
 has been furnished with its hateful, work from this recent oc- 
 
62 PORTUGAL 
 
 currence. But the real patriots of Portugal see in these dis- 
 turbances nothing but danger to the constitutional system, 
 and the probable cause of triumph for the absolutists, and of 
 course bitterly lament the injurious excesses committed by 
 the pretended friends of liberty. 
 
 Throughout all this conflict of public opinion, the general 
 good indeed of the state seems to be overlooked, excepting by 
 a few sound and rational politicians ; and it might fairly be in- 
 ferred from their conduct, that party spirit and selfish feehngs 
 alone influence the actions of the many ; and that, as long as 
 his own particular views and opinions should be promoted, the 
 Corcunda and the clamorous liberal would alike feel indiffer- 
 ent to the real interests of the country. Indeed, it is currently 
 reported that the ex-minister is precisely one of those wild de- 
 fenders of liberal principles, or selfish promoters of private ad- 
 vancement, to the prejudice and degradation of his colleagues 
 in office, to whom no confidence could be accorded, with re- 
 spect to his principles and intentions, either by those in power, 
 or by the sagacious part of the community at large. It was 
 the more lamentable, therefore, that such a cause should give 
 an occasion for unworthy tumult, and impose a falsehood upon 
 the credulity of the multitude. 
 
 Under these trying and very difficult circumstances, the 
 judicious policy of the British ambassador, and the delicacy 
 and impartiality maintained throughout by the commander of 
 the British forces, have been beyond all commendation ; though 
 the line of conduct, simultaneously adopted by both, was just 
 such as might be looked for from public officers of their expe- 
 rience and high character. The effect of their combined pru- 
 dence and foresight might not, perhaps, satisfy the violent zeal 
 of either hostile faction in the country; but it was impossible for 
 an English spectator not to witness, with unmixed satisfaction, 
 the highly honourable tendency of their forbearance and cir- 
 cumspection to advance the character of England, as furnish- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 63 
 
 ing an irrefutable proof to the Spanish and French govern- 
 ments of her good faith, and of the honesty and justice of her 
 disinterested intentions. 
 
 During the progress of this political eruption, we have often 
 entertained apprehensions for the personal safety of both these 
 functionaries ; and persons of greater experience than ourselves 
 in the desperateness and malignity of party feeling at Lisbon, 
 have concurred w^ith us in entertaining the same feelings of 
 alarm. 
 
 The ambassador is considered by the absolutist as the de- 
 cided enemy to his cause ; while the visionary constitutionalist 
 regards him as the coveiro of liberal institutions, and watches 
 all his proceedings with an eye of jealous suspicion. The 
 justice of this application, however, of the term " undertaker" 
 to the British minister at Lisbon, on account of his political 
 conduct in Naples and in Madrid, when the ill-conceived and 
 the worse-supported systems, called constitutional, received a 
 suicidal blow from the ignorant presumption and blind temerity 
 of their own declaiming partizans, may be duly estimated, by 
 taking into consideration the real character of the Neapolitan,. 
 Spanish, and, we must add, that of the Portuguese patriot. 
 The judicious and conciliating conduct of the British general 
 must, it would be supposed, have had some good effect upon 
 the leading and influential Portuguese of all parties, as it ought 
 to have excited the public confidence from the perfect neutra- 
 lity observed by his troops upon every occasion ; disarmed the 
 wild constitutionalist of his daring expectations of British sup- 
 port for any insane schemes of government ; and tranquillised, 
 moreover, the awakened apprehensions of the absolutist. 
 
 We have visited the two national theatres, the one denomi- 
 nated " do Salitre," and the other, which is of larger dimen- 
 sions, and of an oblong shape, in the " Rua dos Condes," 
 both of which are dark from filth and neglect, and in neither 
 did we consider the pieces represented, to be at all above the 
 
64 PORTUGAL 
 
 lowest degree of mediocrity ; while the frequent indelicacy of 
 the allusions made, gave us no very favourable opinion of the 
 delicacy and purity of the Portuguese drama. In the neigh- 
 bourhood of the first theatre there is a walk, planted with rows 
 of trees, around which it is necessary to form trenches for con- 
 taining water, in order to preserve, at this season, their verdure 
 from the burning rays of the sun ; but it is both small and con- 
 fined, and in no respect would serve as an agreeable place of 
 popular resort, even did the retiring habits of the Portuguese 
 permit them to indulge in the taste for a public promenade. 
 
 The amphitheatre, where the exhibitions of bull-fights are 
 held every sabbath, is contiguous ; but the cruelty of the sport, 
 and the sacred character of the day, are considerations of quite 
 suflScient weight with English travellers to leave Portuguese 
 taste in the full and undisturbed enjoyment of all its plea- 
 sures. 
 
 There is likewise a sort of rag-fair held upon the south-west 
 side of the gardens of Salitre one evening in every week ; and, 
 indeed, at no time is the outside of its walls without the deco- 
 ration of old hats, cast-off" silk garments of all denominations, 
 sizes, and shapes ; colourless pictures ; old saddles and iron- 
 mongery of ancient date ; busts of virgins, saints, popes, and 
 bishops a little the worse for service ; household furniture of 
 the most intimate description, with a variety of domestic uten- 
 sils in a truly pitiable state of decay ; not to omit the faded 
 glories of the once gold-embroidered, flowered-silk vestments 
 of ecclesiastics, rejected by pride from the sanctuary, and at 
 length doomed to take up with the low level of these things of 
 common life. 
 
 A saint's day, or holyday, in Lisbon, set apart by the ordi- 
 nances of man, it soon became obvious, is observed with every 
 solemnity of outward appearance ; the shops being closed, and 
 business of every kind, save that of the dealers in wines, as 
 well as of the laborious Gallego and hardy muleteer, being 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 65 
 
 universally suspended ; whilst the sacred day of rest, appointed 
 to be hallowed by the express word of God himself, is openly 
 and scandalously, and without exception of persons or classes 
 amongst the Portuguese, most shamefully violated, under every 
 possible circumstance of impropriety in the continuance of the 
 ordinary pursuits and occupations of the week, and in the 
 more than usually large assemblage of persons at the fairs, 
 f^tes, bull-fights, theatres, and the opera. Yet this same 
 people, so devoted to their amusements, when the bell rings 
 in the front of a church, to announce that the holy composition 
 of flower and water is about to be carried in procession through 
 the streets to the couch of the sick or the dying, are imme- 
 diately arrested in the prosecution of their worldly avocations, 
 and publicly kneel in deep devotion to the real presence, until 
 the canopied priests and ch-aunting choristers have borne the 
 Pyx out of sight. 
 
 The opera-house is a fine building, with a handsome portico, 
 situated in the square, from which it takes its name. It re- 
 quired only five months for its erection in 1793. The corri- 
 dors throughout are vaulted, as the staircases also, which lead 
 to the several tiers of boxes ; while the vomitories are so nu- 
 merous and so skilfully distributed, that the interior of the 
 theatre, in case of fire, could be instantaneously cleared. The 
 architect was an Italian, of the name of Joseph da Costa e 
 Silva. The interior contains five tiers of boxes, and upon the 
 ceiling, in an elliptical frame, are represented the heavenly 
 bodies with our lunar and planetary system. Over the pro- 
 scenium there is a large clock placed, rather in advance, whose 
 dexter supporter is old Time with his scythe, and the sinister, 
 one of the Muses playing on a lyre. A figure of Cupid sur- 
 mounts the clock. Between the two columns on either side 
 of the stage, are figures representing the comic andi^he tragic 
 muse. The royal box occupies the entire segment of the 
 circle, cutting perpendicularly the five tiers of boxes, which 
 Port. E 
 
66 PORTUGAL 
 
 gives it an elevated and imposing appearance. There are one 
 hundred and twenty boxes ; and the pit here, as at Paris and 
 elsewhere, reserved for the accommodation of male spectators, 
 may contain about seven hundred persons ; the price of ad- 
 mission being to this part of the theatre half a crusado novo, 
 and for a box on the lower and principal tier, sufficiently ca- 
 pacious to contain five or six chairs, half a moidore, or about 
 ten shillings. The operas are given on the nights of Monday, 
 Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, — generally commencing 
 about half past eight, and concluding before twelve. The 
 ladies appear not to dress for the opera, excepting upon the 
 anniversaries of the birth-days of any members of the royal 
 family, or in commemoration of any great national event. The 
 custom of the actors stopping to acknowledge the applause of 
 the audience, even in the delivery of an heroic speech, quite 
 destroys the illusion of the whole scene. 
 
 Happily the Portuguese have abandoned their old prejudice 
 against the admission of female actors upon the stage, for we 
 have been charmed with the powers of voice, and the sweetness 
 and flexibility of tone possessed by the Prima Donna, who, in 
 her flattering debut, is rivalling that of the celebrated Catalan! 
 on this stage. Her mode of giving Don Pedro's constitutional 
 hymn, with variations of her own, was truly enthusiastic, and 
 elicited the thundering plaudits of the whole house. Upon 
 one occasion a military piece was to be represented, and when 
 the curtain drew up, we saw a regiment, composed of females, 
 duly marshalled on the stage. They marched and went 
 through their evolutions with most wonderful precision, — 
 handled their muskets like heroines, — and went through the 
 platoon exercise with exemplary steadiness. 
 
 The orchestra of the Lisbon opera is one of the most com- 
 plete in Europe ; and indeed, altogether, the scenery, decora- 
 tions, and dresses, are quite upon a par with those which may 
 be seen in any one of the European theatres. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. G7 
 
 Speaking of the opera, we are naturally led to notice the 
 character of the national music, called modinha, (a word pro- 
 bably derived from the Latin modus, — harmonic disposition of 
 measures,) which is distinguished by peculiar features from 
 the popular melodies of all other nations in its modulation. 
 These Portuguese airs, and particularly the Brasilian mo- 
 dinhas, original specimens* of which are enclosed for your 
 better comprehension of their nature, are singularly beautiful 
 and simple, both as to their accoihpanying words, and as to the 
 composition of the music. They are generally expressive of 
 some amatory, tender, or melancholy sentiment, of .hope or 
 despair, and their effect is such, that, when well accompanied 
 by the voice and guitar, or as in Brasil, by the mandoline or 
 flute, played upon by groups of peasants in the open air, under 
 the influence of a beautiful tropical night, they are often known 
 to elicit the tears of the audience, however accustomed to their 
 frequent repetition. It would be well if the Portuguese con- 
 fined themselves to their native harmony, instead of attempt- 
 ing the Italian style; to do justice to which, even the talents 
 of the great pianist of Portugal, Bontempo, notwithstanding 
 his just reputation, can scarcely be pronounced as quite equal, 
 not to mention the inadequate pretensions of Portogallo, and 
 his brother, Sima5 Portugal, Jos6 Mauricio, (a Brasilian Mu- 
 latto,) and many other musical composers, whose names are 
 well known and even much respected at Lisbon. 
 
 It is natural to suppose that, to a certain degree, the differ- 
 ent choirs of the conventual and ecclesiastic establishments 
 would be so many good schools of music ; and indeed numer- 
 ous professors of the art, who have successively challenged for 
 minor excellence the public attention at Lisbon and Porto, 
 have received the groundwork of their education within the 
 walls of such institutions. It is a subject of gratifying reflec- 
 tion, that the first principles of this divine science should at 
 
68 PORTUGAL 
 
 any time be acquired in the sanctuary. But still general in- 
 struction in music is almost entirely under the hands and con- 
 troul of Italians ; the consequence of which must be highly 
 injurious to the production and success of native talent. To 
 this cause, namely, their not possessing a school for the culti- 
 vation of national music, we are certainly justified in attribut- 
 ing the very inferior distinction to which the Portuguese as 
 musicians have yet attained in the world ; and the fact that 
 there should be so few native professors of music at Lisbon, 
 who are mentioned out of their own country. 
 
 The general character of the Portuguese modinha is now 
 scarcely any thing better than spurious plagiarisms from Ros- 
 sini and other Italian masters ; and in a large collection which 
 we have purchased of the manufacture of da Costa, Franchi, 
 and Schiopetta, as might naturally be expected, the original 
 character of the Italian source is too plainly perceptible. It 
 is asserted of Schiopetta, that he is an excellent player on the 
 guitar, and can compose verses with facility ; but, though 
 equal to the mental conception of a modinha, that he is unable 
 to give existence to his own ideas in musical characters. His 
 system appears to be, for he has a remarkably fine ear, to 
 carry away from the opera a few bars out of some Italian 
 composition, which has peculiarly afi'ected his imagination, as 
 the thesis or subject of his modinha, which he speedily works 
 upon his guitar into a regular form, adapting his poetic effusion 
 to the corresponding sentiment of the harmony ; but he is 
 obliged to have recourse to a more scientific friend to write 
 down the notes of his modinha, as he plays off the air. 
 Beautiful,— full of pathos and sentiment, as most undoubtedly 
 his compositions must be admitted to be, yet there is that in- 
 describable originality of character wanting to the perfection 
 of their excellence, which you will find constituting the power- 
 ful charm of the three modinhas which are now sent you, and 
 
MODINKA 1. 
 
 
 o 
 
 "hi 
 "M 
 
 P 
 
 »^'J. J- J .^ J. mi' t r I J'. J; 
 
 ^ 
 
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 tii _ do tijii tim pr tim 
 
 if^ " ' - 1 ^ Ut^(^^^U^^ l ["D ^^ 
 
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 tu di zes q? tul qV nao'' 
 
 eu di po q? tal que 
 
 i 
 
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 ■^ 
 
 2? 
 
 Esse sim q? tu .Jhe deste 
 Foi dado com outro fim^ 
 
 Pensar o mal isso naoj 
 Julgar o bem isso sim. 
 
 3? 
 
 Tambem sei q? tu ^he deste 
 Huma rosa e hum jasmim, 
 
 Tao bem sei ao dar do ramo 
 Quem te ouvio dizer q? sim. 
 
r 
 
 u 
 
 MODINHA 2. 
 
 y^ 
 
 
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 S 
 
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 cia VO0 pas. san . . do atris te vi da. 
 
I 
 
 Alivio - somente encOntro 
 A' minha melancolia, 
 
 Meditando em teu seintlante 
 Impresso na fantasia. 
 
 '>M 
 
 Humas yezes me fig-ura 
 Terna vista em mim lanQando 
 
 E do peito enternecido 
 Mil s^j^ijqs exallando. 
 
 Otitras vezes me .parece^ 
 Q' de mim ja' esquecida^ 
 
 Com hum mortal mais ditoso 
 Vais passajido alegre a vida. 
 
 ,Assim nesta alternativa 
 De receioj e de espera.n<5a^ 
 
 Vivoj e tu "talves nao tenhas 
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 if 
 
 
IV 
 
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 t/lndantino 
 moderato. 
 
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 ^^ 
 
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 Dh-inal CoiistitiiicacT. 
 
 5 
 
 Viva, viva, olc, 
 
 3 
 
 Venturozos nos scremos 
 
 Em perfeita iiniao 
 Tendo seinpre em vista todos 
 
 Divinal Constititioao^. 
 
 Viva, viva, &c. 
 
 4, 
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 Divinal Constituicao". 
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ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 69 
 
 to which we" have listened with a sort of melancholy indolence 
 for hours and hours, insensible to every thing else but the en- 
 chanting effect of their melody. They were presented to us 
 by a Dominican monk, — an amiable creature and an excellent 
 musician, — who possesses the most genuine and perfect taste 
 in the composition of modinhas ; and a voice, that all might 
 envy him, — none could emulate in depth of tone, and felicity 
 of expression. Si quid mea carmina possunt, if iny notice, so 
 humble as ours, could do him honour, we should feel a pride 
 in mentioning the name of Senhor Frey Domingos Justiniano, 
 as our amigo e Collega. But let us proceed to his modinhas, 
 with which are inclosed translations in English and French, 
 for the latter of which let us bespeak your indulgence. No 
 translation, however, can possibly do justice to the classical 
 beauties of the original Portuguese composition. 
 
 TRANSLATION OF THE FIRST MODINHA, 
 
 " EU BEM SEI DOS TEUS AMORES," &C. 
 
 English translation. 
 
 1. 
 
 With your love and love affairs I 
 am thoroughly acquainted ; you may 
 say, O ! no such thing ! but I say. 
 Yes ! Yes ! O yes ! 
 
 French translation. 
 
 1. 
 
 J 'en tends toutes vos menses, 
 Je sais tous vos amours ! 
 Vous dites qu'un tel que non, 
 Mais je le crois trop certain ! — 
 Oui! Ehbien! 
 
 The consent you gave him was for 
 a secret purpose ! To be harsh, how- 
 ever, in our judgments is wrong ; to 
 be kind is right. 
 
 Yes ! Yes ! O yes ! 
 
 Cet aveu, que vous lui fites, 
 Cachait un secret dessein. 
 On a tort d'en juger k faux ; 
 Mais je ne me trompe en rien. 
 Oui! Ehbien! 
 
PORTUGAL 
 
 3. 
 
 I also know that you gave him a 
 rose and a jessamine flower ; and I 
 know who heard you, on presenting 
 the flowers, give also your consent. 
 Yes ! Yes ! O yes ! 
 
 3. 
 
 Je sais que vous lui rendites 
 Une rose, et un jasmin ; 
 Et lui donnant le bouquet, 
 Qu'il perja I'aveu malin ! 
 
 Oui! Ehbien! 
 
 TRANSLATION OF THE SECOND MODINHA, 
 
 " ENTRETEM MEU PENSAMENTO," &C. 
 
 English translation. 
 
 French translation. 
 
 "Whilst absent from thee, I drag on 
 a miserable existence : thy lovely 
 image, impressed on my mind, keeps 
 me from sinking. 
 
 2. 
 
 The only thing that relieves my 
 melancholy, is the reflection on thy 
 beauty, which I have deeply engTaven 
 on my heart. 
 
 3. 
 
 Sometimes I fancy I see you ten- 
 derly looking upon me, and testify- 
 ing your love by a thousand sighs. 
 
 4. 
 At other times, alas ! that, forgetful 
 of me, with another and happier lover, 
 thou leadest a joyful life. 
 
 5. 
 
 Thus, an alternate prey to hope and 
 fear, I live, without, perhaps, ever 
 awakening in your heart one tender 
 recollection of me. 
 
 Je jouis dans ma penste 
 De votre image ch6rie ; 
 Mais je sens dans votre absence 
 D^perir ma triste vie. 
 
 2. 
 
 II n'est pour moi de resource 
 Pour soulager mon malheur, 
 Que de voir votre portrait 
 Empreint au fond de mon cceur. 
 
 3. 
 
 Je me flatte quelquefois 
 Que vous me lixez des yeux, 
 Et que vos tendres soupirs 
 Sont les garants de vos feux. 
 
 4. 
 
 Quelquefois je vous contemple, 
 De ma tendresse oubli^e, 
 Et dans les bras d'un rival 
 Lui charmer sa destin^e. 
 
 5. 
 
 Entre I'espoir et la crainte 
 Je m'aperfois defaillir 
 Sans vous m^riter peut-fetre 
 Le plus leger souvenir. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 71 
 
 TRANSLATION OF THE THIRD MODINHA. ' 
 
 English translation. French translation. 
 
 In those sad moments, when the re- Quand je me livre, en ces tristes 
 collection of thy ingratitude forces itself momens, 
 
 on my mind, I feel my heart torn asun- Au souvenir de ton ingratitude, 
 der by a thousand pangs. Mon ame, en proie k son inquietude, 
 
 Succombe, et meurt dans I'exces des 
 tourmens. 
 
 The state of society in Lisbon, at all times melancholy and 
 dull, as we are given to understand, is now particularly so, 
 and owing to the recent political convulsions, unusually con- 
 tracted ; branches of the same family being at open enmity 
 with each other on account of the opinions which they may 
 respectively entertain. This state of anti-social animosity has 
 engendered a vast deal of gloom and suspicion, and each per- 
 son seems to be afraid even of his own natural connexions ; no 
 very great compliment, you will observe, to the national cha- 
 racter for the nobler feelings of consistency of principle, and 
 fidelity in family attachments. Such, however, is the truth : 
 the Portuguese animal is one thing to day, and another to- 
 morrow, — varium et mutabile semper, — so that an honest man 
 dare scarcely avow his own private sentiments about public 
 matters. 
 
 There are no promenades, if we except the roughly-paved 
 streets, as in the French metropolis, where the gay multitude 
 may meet in promiscuous assemblage of all ranks and condi- 
 tions in life, to enjoy a cheering relaxation from the fatigues of 
 the day in joyous converse and free exercise in the open air. 
 A species of monastic severity seems to keep the Portuguese 
 within their houses ; a system sadly destructive of all elasticity 
 of spirit. Thus females are only seen walking with a funereal 
 gait to confession or mass, followed by Argus-eyed duennas. 
 
72 PORTUGAL 
 
 bespeaking propriety by the antiquated leanness of their per- 
 sons, and the immense breadth of their green sun-fans ; and 
 then the down-cast eye but ill reveals the roguery and mis- 
 chief that lurk within. Did the odours of the well-strewed 
 streets permit the hurrying passenger to stop a few seconds, 
 the balconies often contain, besides the myrtle, carnation, 
 orange-tree, and jessamine, other flowers of a still more at- 
 tractive description to fix his intent regard. But let a recent 
 rambler in Portugal give you his opinion of female charms in 
 Lisbon, and in language much better adapted to the purpose 
 than our happiest invention could supply : — 
 
 " The women are really often very pretty ; of the young, 1 
 think the look is commonly pleasing. The faces of the Lis- 
 bonians form an indisputable improvement upon the Made- 
 rienses. Their features, though small, are of a more delicate 
 chiselling ; their complexions decidedly finer ; now and then, 
 indeed, we have seen the most beautiful skins, exquisitely 
 clear and smooth, with the slightest and most delicate tinge of 
 carnation on the cheek that one can fancy. The skin of a 
 Lisbon belle, when fairest, has a warmth of tone, the farthest 
 possible remote from fadeur or insipidity ; and when shaded 
 by thick black curls, and animated by eyes — not so large and 
 full perhaps as those we had left at Madeira, but of a longer 
 shape, shadowed by a richer fall of lash, and partly, perhaps, 
 from that circumstance, more soft and intelligent in their ex- 
 pression, — I have sometimes been for the moment half-shaken 
 in my allegiance to the rightful supremacy of English beauty. 
 They are seldom tall, and except the infantas, (Princesses 
 Royal,) we have seen but few instances among them of what 
 we should call fine figure or commanding air. Their feet, we 
 are assured, (the " feet of fire,") are often very beautiful, and 
 that they set much by the advantage, sparing no care or ex- 
 pense in the due ordering of their chaussure. The very seden- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 73 
 
 tary habits of their lives may with them, as with the Chinese, 
 assist in cherishing this distinction." 
 
 How the Portuguese ladies pass their time within doors, 
 except when listlessly gazing from the well-cushioned balco- 
 nies, it is difficult to conceive ; for decidedly, the cultivation 
 of their minds, beyond some little trumpery accomplishments, 
 forms a very small part of their daily employment. With all 
 their beauty, they still want the dignity and the force of cha- 
 racter that mark a highly- cultivated and intellectual female in 
 England. They may have vivacity of eye, but certainly not 
 the spiritual elevation, the mental energy, and the chaste 
 gaiety, which distinguish the higher class of females in our 
 own country. In all respects, as to themselves, their personal 
 obligations, feelings, and attractions, they are, as upon first 
 sight one has found them, in very rude terms, mere women, — 
 thus much from a monk— lovely, but unsatisfactory specimens 
 of "the weaker vessel," for whose moral improvement and 
 elevation in social rank the lords of creation should recollect 
 that they are responsible. 
 
 And what, you will demand, of these said lords of the crea- 
 tion at Lisbon ? — Why the fact is, that if the English gentleman 
 who once received from a stranger in London, in acknowledg- 
 ment of his greater nasal pretensions, a gold snuff-box, which 
 he was to transfer to the honour of any proboscis more red, 
 ugly, and extensive than his own, that he might casually chance 
 to meet, had come off straightway to Lisbon, the said box he 
 must in justice have resigned upon the first step of the abo- 
 minable packet-stairs ! Nature seems to have done her worst 
 here for the men of the better classes in life ; and to talk of 
 " the human face divine" in Lisbon would be a libel upon the 
 dispensations of Providence. The Jews and the Indians must 
 surely have intermixed with the Portuguese gentry in mar- 
 riages, and thus have transfused into Lusitanian physiognomy 
 the strength of their own peculiar features, which are here 
 
74 PORTUGAL 
 
 beheld in so unpleasing a conjunction. The Moors appear to 
 have left in Portugal but few memorials or traces of their 
 own characteristic brilliancy of visage to relieve the ugliness, 
 which seems to be, in an eminent degree, the unrivalled 
 property of the modern male inhabitants of Olyssipolis, or the 
 public Portuguese face, it is to be presumed, would have been 
 more agreeable than we have found it. 
 
 Now of all animals in creation, the Lisbon dandy, or 
 fashionable Lusitanian swell, is by far the lowest in the scale 
 of mere existence. I have been haunted in my dreams by 
 visions of ugliness since the first time I beheld a small, squat, 
 puffy figure, — what was it ? could it be of a man ? — incased 
 within a large pack-saddle, upon the back of a lean, high- 
 boned, straw-fed, cream-coloured nag, with an enormously 
 flowing tail, whose length and breadth would appear to be 
 each night guarded from discoloration by careful involution 
 above the hocks. Taken, from his gridiron spurs and long 
 pointed boots, up his broad blue-striped pantaloons, a la 
 cossaque, to the thrice folded piece of white linen on which he 
 is seated in cool repose ; thence by his cable chain, bearing 
 seals as large as a warming-pan, and a key like an anchor ; 
 then a little higher, to the figured waistcoat of early British 
 manufacture, and the sack-shapened coat, up to the narrow- 
 brim sugar-loaf hat on his head, — where can be found his 
 equal, — with a nose too as big as the gnomon of a dial-plate ; 
 and two flanks of impenetrably deep black brushwood, extend- 
 ing under either ear, and almost concealing the countenance, 
 to complete the singular contour of his features. 
 
 The lower classes of Portuguese are infinitely superior in 
 dignity of appearance, and in manly beauty, to those of the 
 higher order. The Galician peasant even is superior — for 
 instance, turn round and look at that finely-formed, athletic, 
 patient, and hard-working water-carrier, with his barrel of 
 many devices upon his shoulder ; how nobly and gracefully 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 75 
 
 does the honest mountaineer march along under his burden ! 
 Though only half clothed, he has more about him of the 
 dignity of human nature, much as he is unjustly despised, 
 than all the classes of those who deal out to him no treatment 
 but contumely and contempt. By the hard sweat of his brow 
 he is enabled, though with difficulty, to earn about sixpence a 
 day, the moiety of which serves to procure him his bread, his 
 fried sardinha from a neighbouring cook's stall, and a little 
 light wine, perhaps, on holidays, — water being his general 
 beverage, — ^nay, one might almost say, his element. A mat in 
 a large upper room, shared between him and several brethren 
 of the same avocation, serves him in winter as a place of 
 repose for the night ; but during the summer he frequently 
 sleeps out in the open air, making his filled water-barrel his 
 pillow, ready in an instant to start, in case of fire, at the call 
 of the captain of his gang, and to perform the only public duty 
 exacted from him. His small savings are sufficient to enable 
 him, in the course of some fifteen years or more, to return to 
 the dear mountains of his own native Galicia, and to purchase 
 a little plot of cultivable ground, upon which he erects a 
 small cottage, or rather we should call it a hut or cabin, then 
 marries, and sends forth his children at the proper age to 
 follow, in the Portuguese towns, the same path of industry 
 and frugality of which he has set them the virtuous example, 
 and which have procured him the independence and the com- 
 forts of a home, however rude, humble, and limited. 
 
 No Portuguese will condescend to carry a burden; for 
 which they deem the beasts alone to be destined, and not the 
 erect form of man. There is a notion, according to some 
 publication about Portuguese habits, the name of which does 
 not occur to us at the present moment, which prevails 
 throughout the country, that the reason why the Portuguese, 
 when they do submit to bear burdens, carry them not upon 
 their backs, but upon their heads, is, that that part of the 
 
76 PORTUGAL 
 
 human body which is never to be seen by an enemy, is not to 
 be degraded by any base service or oppression ! 
 
 The Gallegos are indeed the most useful class of people in 
 Lisbon ; and though it may suit native pride and villany 
 sometimes to impute to the parsimonious mountaineer the 
 commission of crimes, robbery, poisoning, and assassination for 
 instance, with the utmost injustice, yet he is frequently em- 
 ployed by the merchants in situations of confidence, and, as 
 office-porter, is very often entrusted with property to a consi- 
 derable amount ; and hardly an instance has ever occurred of 
 a Gallego proving unfaithful to his trust. 
 
 A short time since, to cite only one instance out of the 
 many proofs which have come to our knowledge of Galician 
 honesty, a gang of these Spanish porters was engaged, near 
 the Exchange in Lisbon, to carry some heavy boxes of dollars 
 to a distant part of the city, when one of them, not so strong 
 and active as the others, suddenly found himself alone, the 
 others having gone forward out of sight. In this dilemma, 
 the Gallego betook himself directly to the police office, not 
 knowing the proper destination of his burden, and there 
 awaited the hue and cry which he foresaw would be made 
 after him, when he should be found by his employer to be 
 missing. He had been there an hour, when a messenger, out 
 of breath, came to instruct the police of a Gallego's having 
 disappeared with a large quantity of silver ; upon which the 
 honest fellow presented himself to the' magistrate with the 
 box unopened, declaring that he had determined upon coming 
 with the dollars to the office, when he found that his 
 companions had outstripped him, foreseeing that he would 
 soon have there the opportunity of restoring it to its lawful 
 owner. 
 
 If there is any one class of people in Lisbon more peculiarly 
 entitled to one's contempt than another, it most certainly is that 
 of the fidalgos, or nobility ; of whom, with the exception of such 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 77 
 
 families as the Cadavals, Marialvas, and Quintellas, putting 
 their political opinions out of the question, and some few 
 others, who would be an ornament to the aristocracy of any- 
 country, it may be said, though in a different sense from that 
 in which it is usually received, " Nobilitas est unica virtus." 
 Destitute of education, as of virtuous principles, their whole 
 lives are devoted to profligacy and immorality of every kind. 
 Their pride, their prejudices, ignorance, extravagance, poverty, 
 and fawning habits in a miserable and abandoned court, have 
 brought them into the most disgraceful state of moral degra- 
 dation. Maintaining large retinues, and keeping up large 
 establishments of servants, who are fed upon rice and bacalhao 
 (salt fish), by far the greater part of the Portuguese fidalguia 
 drag on an ignoble existence, without scarcely possessing the 
 means of purchasing for themselves the necessaries of life. Since 
 the introduction of the constitutional system, the independent 
 shopkeepers of Lisbon can scarcely be ever induced to give 
 credit to this haughty class of titled beggars; and even 
 medical practitioners are shy in attending their summons, 
 since fine words without fees would be their certain remune- 
 ration. 
 
 It is scarcely two years since that a na'tive Portuguese 
 physician obtained, at length, as he flattered himself, eminent 
 and valuable practice in Lisbon, his attendance being required 
 at the houses of nearly all the invalid fidalgos. Although it 
 is the custom that the carriage of the sick person should be 
 always sent to bring the physician or surgeon when he is 
 required, this unfortunate gentleman found it more convenient, 
 perhaps more stylish, to set up his own s^ge, at an annual 
 expense of about one hundred and fifty pounds. Being a 
 man of considerable ability, his services soon became in 
 universal request, and the inexperienced observer would 
 thence have concluded that he was rapidly rising to fame and 
 
78 PORTUGAL 
 
 fortune; but no such thing. After a short career of ill- 
 requited fatigue, he was seized by a fever of the brain, which 
 proved fatal after a few days suffering ; but previously to his 
 death, he revealed the fact to his distressed family, that during 
 the whole period of his medical practice in Lisbon, he had 
 never received one fee from the higher classes, in whose sick 
 chambers his whole time almost had been consumed. He 
 left his widow and his four children, at his death, in a state of 
 the utmost destitution. His books, furniture, s6ge, and mules, 
 brought in but a very small and inadequate sum to meet the 
 wants of his helpless relict and her poor fatherless children. 
 In searching amongst the papers of the deceased, a list was 
 found by some friends of those persons whom he had been in 
 the habit of attending, and urgent applications were imme- 
 diately made to those quarters for some part, however small it 
 might be, of the remuneration due for the services which he 
 had rendered. Alas ! the appeal was made in vain, — ^for it 
 was made to fidalgos ; and they had neither the heart nor 
 the principle that might incline them to listen to the widow's 
 cry, and to satisfy the claims of justice. She is now living 
 with her children in Lisbon, unnoticed, unaided, and unpitied, 
 in the depth of cheerless poverty and despair, for which there 
 seems no promise of any alleviation. 
 
 One need not, after this anecdote, insist further in the com- 
 parative estimate of character between the despised Galician 
 and the unprincipled fidalgo. But still the truth demands that 
 it should be further stated of this class, that they are the 
 natural enemies to every attempted improvement in the state, 
 which might have the effect of diminishing, or prejudicing in 
 any way, their aristocratical privileges ; and that every bill 
 almost, which has received the sanction of the lower chamber, 
 having for its object the introduction of some enlightened and 
 liberal measure for the benefit of the people, or the repeal of 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 79 
 
 some antiquated and obnoxious law for the improvement of 
 their condition, has by their contrivance been defeated, and 
 thrown out by the upper house. 
 
 The personal appearance of the fidalgos is not more attrac- 
 tive than their moral and political principles. While the 
 lower classes, and especially the domiciliated Galicians, with 
 whom one jostles in the streets of Lisbon, have a fine and 
 manly appearance, far beyond that of the higher at all events, 
 the stature, gait, and physiognomy of the fidalgo, are in the 
 highest degree mean and repulsive. The unethereal mould of 
 visage, the beamless eye and unintellectual mien, and listless 
 manner of those to whom a sternness of countenance has not 
 given a semblance of something worse, lead instantly to the 
 persuasion that the nobles of Portugal are, in a large propor- 
 tion, as destitute of mind as of manly beauty. 
 
 As a specimen of Portuguese pride, veracity, and inveterate 
 attachment to the offences even of his own country, receive 
 the following anecdote: — A young Lisbon dandy replied, the 
 other day, to an observation that the filth and stench of the 
 streets had become intolerable, and that the ordeal of disgust- 
 ing odours through which we had daily to make our way to the 
 dinner- tables of hospitable friends, produced such an effect 
 upon our palates and olfactory nerves, that, however grand the 
 furniture of the house, and however delicate the viands on the 
 table might be, yet everything both smelt and tasted of the 
 volatile miasmata infecting the atmosphere, — by saying that, 
 for his part, when he was in London, it was the absence of 
 that filth, and the want of those smells of which we com- 
 plained, that had rendered his residence in our metropolis so 
 disagreeable and uncomfortable to him. " No passion," as 
 Southey says, " makes a man a liar so easily as vanity." 
 
 We have been fortunate in obtaining introductions to the 
 houses of several very enlightened merchants, whose ready 
 and valuable information has been more welcome than even 
 
80 PORTUGAL 
 
 their liberal and agreeable hospitalities. It is in this class 
 of persons that all the moral worth, intellect, integrity, in- 
 dustry, and mental illumination to be found in the country, 
 are concentrated. Subsequent experience of the high prin- 
 ciples of honour and rectitude, as well as public virtue of the 
 Portuguese merchants, will, we are satisfied, amply confirm 
 the conviction, founded upon this short acquaintance with the 
 pre-eminent qualities by which they are distinguished, that 
 no mercantile community in the whole world can be more 
 entitled to esteem and confidence than the body of native 
 merchants established in the trading towns of Portugal. With 
 reference to the friendly reception which we have received, 
 from many of them, and the interesting communications with 
 which we have been favoured, it can only be said, in the lan- 
 guage of a traveller in the West Indies, that we refer to them 
 frequently in our retrospection of scenes passed, for the double 
 purpose of contrast and similitude, or the reviving of grateful 
 aff'ections. 
 
 The mutual affection and kindliness evinced towards each 
 other, in such families where it has been our good fortune to 
 visit, have been remarkably striking and pleasing. So, per- 
 haps, was the feeling and custom of the olden time with us, 
 before Fashion pronounced her imperative anathema, and 
 began " naso suspendere adunco" against the genuine ex- 
 pression of the emotions of the heart. 
 
 For the private and domestic system, however, of living 
 adopted in Portuguese houses, as we are credibly informed by 
 some of our Portuguese friends, for such hospitality has never 
 been shown to us in any one instance, an Englishman could 
 have no possible taste ; and perhaps this is one of the real 
 causes why Englishmen are so seldom admitted to witness 
 the privacy and domestic economy of Portuguese families in 
 general. 
 
 A Portuguese economist appears to have attained to the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 81 
 
 valuable art of feeding the largest given proportion of human 
 beings with the smallest conceivable quantity of sustentatious 
 matter. In fact, says the Rambler, the habits of life among 
 the twp people, (speaking of Portuguese and English society,) 
 are so different, that the intrusion of a stranger would perhaps 
 involve a greater disturbance of the usual routine of existence, 
 than it is fair to expect they should incur upon the cl9.im of a 
 common letter of recommendation. A dish of yellow-looking 
 bacalha5, the worst supposable specimen of our saltings in 
 Newfoundland; a platter of compact, black, greasy, dirty- 
 looking rice ; a pound, if so much, of poor half-fed meat ; a 
 certain proportion of hard-boiled beef, that has never seen the 
 salting-pan, having already yielded all its nutritious qualities 
 to a swinging tureen of Spartan broth, and now requiring the 
 accompaniment of a tongue, or friendly slice of Lamego bacon, 
 to impart a small relish to it ; potatoes of leaden continuity ; 
 dumplings of adaniantine contexture, that Carthaginian vinegar 
 itself might fail to dissolve ; with offensive vegetables, and a 
 something in a round shape, said to be imported from Holland, 
 and called cheese, but more like the unyielding rock of flint 
 in the tenacity of its impenetrable substance ; a small quan- 
 tity of very poor wine ; abundance of water ; and an awful 
 army of red ants, probably imported from the Brasils in the 
 wood of which the chairs and tables are made, hurrying 
 across the cloth with characteristic industry; — such are the 
 principal features of the quiet family dinner-table of the 
 Portuguese, who reside in Lisbon. 
 
 The pinguid gravity of such entries, would, as an agreeable 
 ■yvriter observes, make a nian of delicate stomach and feeble 
 digestion heavily repent of having adventured upon the hard- 
 ships of such an Arabia Petraea hospitality ; to do justice to 
 which, it might be added, in all fair calculation of proportion- 
 able powers, that the steam-engine force of an ostrich's 
 stomach, or the iron digestion of a turkey, could alone be 
 Port. F 
 
82 PORTUGAL 
 
 adequate. Besides, the tapestry-covered chairs are often 
 most inconveniently pre-occupied by crowds of company, 
 that, intruding themselves unbidden into the most intimate 
 acquaintance with the person of the unfortunate guest, leave 
 him no other alternative, after sundry contortions of body, 
 than to secure his honour by a hasty retreat from the seat of 
 combat. Nor is the traveller better off in the retirement of 
 his own chamber ; for what small portion of his person may 
 have survived the attacks of persevejos and mosquitoes, con- 
 tinued unremittingly through the livelong night, falls the cer- 
 tain morning prey of savage hordes of winged insects, who 
 rush to their booty with their strength renewed by sleep, and 
 consummate the fate of the hapless sufferer. 
 
 The meat sold in the shambles of Lisbon is poor and juice- 
 less ; and no better, no more acceptable present can be made 
 to an inhabitant of the Lusitanian metropolis, than a side of 
 beef from Porto by the steamer, or a leg of mutton from one 
 of the Falmouth packets ; to which latter should there be 
 added by any accident a Cheshire cheese, or a tub of Dorset- 
 shire butter, the happiness, the luxurious enjoyment of a large 
 family is ensured for a month, the Portuguese themselves 
 admitting the occasional suspension of the use of oil in domes- 
 tic cookery to be an agreeable change. In consequence of the 
 Lisbon butchers not allowing the carcase of the slaughtered 
 animal to bleed freely, before the joints are taken off, and the 
 meat delivered to the consumer, it very soon turns to a 
 putrescent state ; though, indeed, it might be expected that it 
 would speedily, under any circumstances and with all the care 
 possible, contract a taint from the violent heat of the climate. 
 No exhibition can be conceived more horrid and revolting 
 than the public exposure in the butchers' carts, continually 
 met in the streets, of the bodies of the slaughtered animals, 
 still reeking in their gore, and appearing more fit for the dog- 
 kennel than for the use of human beings. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 83 
 
 The maximum of heat at Lisbon is ascertained to be much 
 higher than that ever experienced at Rio Janeiro, in Brasil ; 
 though the mean temperature, taken in the latter city, is 
 known always to exceed, by a considerable number of degrees, 
 that of the former. 
 
 Notwithstanding the effects produced by the ardent beams 
 of the sun upon men, and almost every animal excepting the 
 mule, the Lisbon dogs seem to luxuriate under the violence of 
 the heat, and to avoid the shady sides of the streets, though 
 the thermometer of Fahrenheit should indicate the state of 
 the atmosphere to be at 1 10 degrees ; but scarcely an in- 
 stance of canine madness is ever known to occur. Certain 
 trades and professions, such as grocers and shoemakers, are 
 compelled by law to keep at their doors small sunken cisterns, 
 which are constantly replenished with water for the use of 
 these animals, who, since Junot's bloody edict against them 
 has ceased to have effect, and the restoration of the city to the 
 uninterrupted enjoyment of its doghood and filth, seem to 
 have recovered their former numerical strength. 
 
 From the window of our lodgings in the Rua San Francisco, 
 we used to amuse ourselves with watching the habits and 
 modes of a dozen of these creatures, to whom that district 
 appeared to belong exclusively, and which no other dog dared 
 to intrude upon but at his peril. Even a stranger, casually 
 passing with his master through the street, was quite sure to 
 receive a most uncourteous reception from the whole troop, 
 and often carried away with him personal marks of their dis- 
 pleasure. There seems to be a sort of instinctive compact 
 established between any given number of these scavengers, to 
 enter upon and retain in fee the peculiar possession of a cer- 
 tain extent of street ; and, as might be supposed, the ballot 
 for the admission of a new member into the club is conducted 
 with the utmost possible acrimony. Noble descent, and a 
 goodly outward appearance, do not in these cases appear to 
 
84 PORTUGAL 
 
 have that influence in determining the election, as such recom- 
 mendations are known to have in the judgment of certain 
 associations in England. 
 
 The canine confederacy, basking in the sun under our 
 windows, or upon the dunghill by the principal entrance into 
 the Franciscan convent, which is opposite, consists of curs of 
 high and of low degree ; some without a tail ; others with 
 their ears shorn, or an eye lost in battle ; some lame, dragging 
 a broken leg after them, perhaps, in addition, writhing under 
 the mange, and proving their antiquity by the leanness of 
 their condition; poodles, who knew a master sixteen long 
 years since ; pointers, who have been fixed to the same spot 
 during the tenth part of a century ; and others who, from the 
 variety in their colour and difference of shape, can boast no 
 common origin. Such is the character of the motley group of 
 dogs assembled together in the occupation of the Rua San 
 Francisco. During the day you are constantly molested by 
 the yelpings and growlings and snarlings of the pack, when- 
 ever a carriage or horse pass rapidly along, or the permanent 
 possession of their territory seems endangered ; and in the 
 night are agreeably serenaded by the domestic broils of the 
 vigilant cabal over the offerings made, to the great danger of 
 the passenger, from the upper windows of the houses, to noctir 
 vagant Cloacina. 
 
 How the various breeds are continued in existence, is a 
 matter of perfect conjecture ; for, like the gipsies, they pass 
 their whole time in the open air, but without a shelter of any 
 kind. Yet for this nomad tribe of curs the Portuguese enter- 
 tain the most religious commiseration, and no one is found to 
 do them an intentional injury. When the French decreed 
 their extinction, no native executioner could be procured to 
 put the exterminating law into force ; nay, the very measure 
 excited the popvilar indignation. The chief part of the mem- 
 bers of these canine associations have been inhabitants of the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 85 
 
 country lying contiguous to the left bank of the Tagus, oppo- 
 site Lisbon, whose masters, towards the approaching season 
 for the maturity of the grapes, of which the dogs are exceed- 
 ingly fond, have transported them across the water, and 
 abandoned them to their fate in the streets of Lisbon ; and it 
 is but seldom that they are ever thought of again by their 
 owners. 
 
 The scene daily beheld in the Rua San Francisco, — where, 
 by the bye, the British ambassador resides, and the banker, 
 par excellence, of the city, (a gentleman whose purse is as large, 
 as his benevolence and high character are widely acknow- 
 ledged throughout the distinguished circles of his numerous 
 friends and acquaintance,) — presents such a combination of 
 curious circumstances, that they really merit a minute detail. 
 
 The chapel of the convent has never been finished, and offers 
 another instance — beyond skeleton houses, seen everywhere, 
 and public buildings left incomplete, — of the grand designs 
 suggested, after the earthquake, by Portuguese, or, as some 
 would say, English architects, and of the total inadequateness 
 of the means possessed to do them justice. A party of friars 
 were seen lounging all day long upon the steps of the portal, 
 looking out for funerals, which were continually arriving, and 
 most indecently concluded, as we were often eye-witnesses of 
 ourselves, within the walls of the convent ; or for people coming 
 to confession and mass, and for the performance of other peni- 
 tential offices ; — beggars reclining, or delivering themselves from 
 certain unwelcome and troublesome companions, beneath ; a 
 large heap of ruins accumulated from the period of the earth- 
 quake, to the north of the steps, where a few half-starved 
 goats, who supply the neighbourhood with milk, (" Lac mihi 
 non aestate novum,") pick up a scanty subsistence upon refuse 
 vegetables ; the occasional procession of the host, honoured by 
 the kneeling multitude ; s6ges filled with fat friars ; Gallegos 
 with their many-coloured water-barrels ; fruit-women and 
 
86 PORTUGAL 
 
 dealers in palhitos, bacalhao, vegetables, sardinhas, and fish 
 fresh from the Tagus ; estafettes hastening to the ambassador's 
 door ; strings of saucy-looking muleteers ; and a demure duemia 
 now and then seen carefully guarding her fair charge through 
 the streets ; — these are the passing objects that render a resi- 
 dence in this street so highly diverting, not to omit mention of 
 our grim-visaged Irish landlady, of whose iron rule in domestic 
 matters we have often stood in the utmost dread. Yet with 
 all her severity of physiognomy and ascetic views of religion, 
 and eternal reprimand of her poor servant girl, honesty and 
 cleanliness are not the least obvious of her good qualities ; 
 and it would be injustice not to admit that her house ofi^ers, 
 in its comfort and neatness, a delightful contrast to the filth 
 and total absence of all propriety by which the generality of 
 Portuguese houses are distinguished, however beautiful and 
 frequently grand their outward masonry work may appear. 
 
 The arrangement of rooms in a Portuguese house is, we have 
 observed, extremely intricate ; the whole of the interior being 
 cut up into small rooms, approached by narrow and awkward 
 passages. The bed-rooms generally have their wainscots lined, 
 about four feet above the surbase, with painted tiles, for the 
 sake, it is to be presumed, of greater coolness ; but the floor- 
 ings also of all the apartments should be overlaid with them, 
 instead of being, as they are in frequent instances, boarded 
 and thickly carpeted, the effect of which is to promote the 
 breed of fleas and generate greater heat. 
 
 Something like a common sewer is now being formed to- 
 wards the end of the street, which is to be carried down the 
 neighbouring declivity, and is to open into the Tagus ; and I 
 believe this unexampled operation is conducted at the expense 
 of a private individual. 
 
 "We have in vain inquired for some books of Portuguese 
 history, and travellers' tours in the country, wherewith to be- 
 guile the mornings, when the heat is too violent to admit of a 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 87 
 
 foreigner's adventuring out of doors. As for books, indeed, of 
 information and amusement, the worthy father inquisitors, 
 whose bloody tribunal, thank God ! is now in the dust, have 
 taken good care that there should be little public taste ; and, 
 accordingly, the traveller had better bring his books of utility 
 with him to Lisbon, for there are none to be had there of any 
 modern reputation. 
 
 On the wall of this Franciscan convent of which we have 
 been speaking, there is a large black cross affixed, and under 
 it a legendary inscription, in Portuguese, that bespeaks the 
 credulity of the devotee to the monkish narrative of the fate of 
 a Portuguese man of war, which in the year 1602, (during the 
 period, you will remark, of the Spanish usurpation of the Lu- 
 sitanian crown, when church fables were as common in Por- 
 tugal as Castilian whiskers,) was by the mismanagement of the 
 pilot driven ashore, or wrecked upon some rocks near Macao, 
 in the bay of Canton. In this emergency, for the convenience 
 of the plot, it graciously pleased Saint Francis to appear with 
 discipline in hand ; but, we would ask, would it not quite as 
 well have suited the object of this dramatic piece, if our kind- 
 hearted friend St. Nicholas, the ancient, the avowed, the legi- 
 timate protector of seamen, had been employed on the occa- 
 sion? for, according to Hospinian, at a memorable moment 
 this saint of Myra — 
 
 cum turbine nautae 
 
 Deprensi Cilices magno clamore vocarent 
 Nicolai virentis opem descendere quinam 
 Coelitum visus sancti sub imagine patris 
 Qui freta depulso fecit placidissima vento. 
 
 However, if there was really on board the Portuguese vessel 
 a chaplain of the Franciscaii order, it is not so much a matter 
 of surprise that our good saint, who has the reputation of 
 being Neptune's younger brother, should be overlooked. Well 
 then, St. Francis's discipline was suddenly and miraculously 
 
8S PORTUGAL 
 
 extended into an ^inconceivable length, and by the sailors 
 wound round the ship, and handed to the assistant saint, who 
 immediately drew the vessel, a la Munchausen, off the rocks, 
 and placed it in a situation of security. The discipline imme- 
 diately separated into an infinity of relics, and this identical 
 cross was made from the ship's timbers ! — Credat Judczus. 
 
 By the bye, talking of Jews, the race does not appear to be 
 extinct at Lisbon, either morally or physically. There are, it 
 must be admitted, a great many of that nation here, who are 
 highly respected for their probity and integrity, and with whom 
 one might deal without incurring the hazard of being plun-- 
 dered of one's jewels, of gold and of silver. We are informed, 
 however, that the race is still considered, in all the folly of old 
 Romish times, a proscribed caste, and that the odious and ab- 
 surd distinction between the classes of new and old Christian 
 is maintained at this period with as much inveteracy as ever. 
 The eflFect of repeated proscriptions and aiitos dafh is certainly 
 not evidenced by the annihilation of this outcast multitude witli- 
 in the limits of Portugal. Perhaps, originally it was the fabled 
 gold of the Tagus which attracted them hither in such great 
 numbers ; and the general persuasion indeed is, that the yellow 
 sands of this royal river did actually once produce sufficient 
 gold to make a magnificent crown and sceptre for the amiablfe 
 hands of that patriot sovereign, the good King Denis. 
 
 Much cannot be said in favour of the police of Lisbon ; nay, 
 it is evident that there is quite as much ignorance, laxity of 
 discipline, and shameful corruption in that department as in 
 any others of the government. Our officers are frequently in- 
 sulted in the streets by the muleteers, and it is useless for them 
 to make any complaint. It was only a few nights since that 
 a young English officer, who had lately joined his regiment in 
 Portugal, and was returning home on his best horse from tlie 
 opera, and in his dress regimentals, was stopped near Saca- 
 vem by four Malcreados, (supposed to be expatriated Cohsti- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 89 
 
 tutionalists from Spain,) and robbed of every thing but his shirt 
 and pocket-handkerchief, with which the brigands bound his 
 hands, and then left hira to his fate. A shrug of the shoulders 
 by the Intendant of police, to whom the case was immediately 
 represented, was a sufficient proof that either he could not or 
 would not effectually interfere to procure the restoration of the 
 property lost. Ea: uno disce omnes. This is only one instance 
 out of the many, which we could adduce, from our own know- 
 ledge, of the infamous manner in which justice is administered 
 by the Portuguese police ; and military men have numerous 
 anecdotes of a similar character to relate concerning Portu- 
 guese magistrates and robbers. Murders, however, are not, it 
 must be admitted, of such frequent occurrence in the streets 
 of Lisbon as is represented. Though the whole distance from 
 the Largo San Carlos to Buenos Ayres is every night left in 
 utter darkness, save where the glimmering light from some 
 street-shrine occurs, and which merely serves to make the 
 surrounding darkness visible, one might, with equal assurance 
 of personal safety from the attacks of an assassin, walk through 
 that length of street, as one would at the same hour take a 
 walk of similar extent in London. 
 
 The streets of Lisbon are generally very steep, and there- 
 fore it is advisable to visit the different parts of the town in a 
 s6ge or cabriolet, which may be hired by the half, or for the 
 whole day, at the rate of about sixteen shillings. In the vig- 
 nette you see one creeping up a hilly street, the length of 
 which has afflicted the mules as well as the driver with a fit of 
 drowsiness. Grotesque as its figure appears, it is notwith- 
 standing a luxurious accommodation, when compared with the 
 pains and penalties of walking up and dowij, the tedious steep 
 streets of the city, under the influence of a burning sun. Its 
 construction is admirably adapted to meet the inequalities of 
 ground upon which the city is placed. The seat is suspended 
 off the axletree, by which means the jolts of the wheels on the 
 
90 
 
 PORTUGAL 
 
 rough pavement are almost imperceptible within the vehicle, 
 which preserves nearly a perpendicular or upright position, 
 whether upon the ascent or the descent. Two curtains close 
 in front of the s^ge to keep out the rain or heat ; and consider- 
 ing that no other sort of carriage could be used up and down 
 the streets of Lisbon, the traveller has good reason to congra- 
 tulate himself upon the happy invention of which you have 
 the representation below. 
 
 SEGE, MULES, AND DRIVER GOING UP A STEEP ASCENT. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 91 
 
 LETTER IV. 
 
 After a rough and unpleasant voyage of two hours on the Tagus, we landed 
 at Lisbon. I rejoiced at finding myself upon terra iirma ; and at five o clock 
 in the morning I was awakened by an earthquake, and heard the house crack 
 over my head. SoUTHEY. 
 
 Lisbon, 1827, 
 
 The southern part of Portugal, and particularly the city and 
 neighbourhood of Lisbon, it is well known, are frequently sub- 
 ject to the visitation of earthquakes. They generally occur 
 between the months of October and April, and usually after a 
 very dry and hot summer, and immediately upon the falling of 
 the first rains, which compose the principal feature of a Por- 
 tuguese winter. Slight shocks of earthquake are experienced 
 almost annually : indeed their frequency, and the numerous 
 mineral springs of hot water which abound in almost every 
 part of the country, would induce the supposition, that the 
 whole of Portugal extends over the breadth of an immense 
 volcano, whose internal fires are by no means yet extin- 
 guished, but from time to time reveal their existence by sub- 
 terranean convulsions. There are no less than seventeen earth- 
 quakes recorded to have occurred in the annals of Portugal, 
 and which were attended by circumstances of more or less 
 horror, and marked by ravages more or less extensive. 
 
 Those of 1531, of 1699, and of 1755, appear to have been 
 
92 PORTUGAL 
 
 the most severe, and to have been followed by the most fatal 
 consequences. The years 1761, 1796, and 1807, were ren- 
 dered remarkable by the occurrence of earthquakes ; but 
 which, though for the short period of their duration they were 
 extremely violent, occasioned no very great extent of injury. 
 In the opinion of many persons, the perpendicular shake pro- 
 duced by an earthquake indicates the presence of the greater 
 degree of danger, whereas the undulatory motion is said to be 
 but seldom the precursor of similar devastation ; and it is as- 
 serted that the more numerous and frequent the light shocks 
 are, the less reason will there be to apprehend the approach 
 of one of greater violence, and affecting a larger surface of 
 earth. What renders these calamities the more awful, when 
 they do occur with any vehement force and agitation, is, that 
 they are almost always accompanied by the most destructive 
 conflagrations ; thus adding another dreadful scourge to the 
 alarming phenomena of nature, which distinguish their ori- 
 gin, progress, and effect. 
 
 Some philosophers, it may be recollected, have divided, 
 the several kinds of earthquakes, in determining the cha- 
 racter of the vibration to be twofold, that of a tremor, and 
 that of a pulse, or alternate expansion and contraction. The 
 first is an horizontal or undulatory motion, in alternate oscilla- 
 tions, if the term may be allowed, and may be compared to the 
 shaking of a person in an ague. The other is marked by a 
 perpendicular motion, or a heaving up and falling down,— si- 
 milar to the appearance of waves in a state of commotion, or 
 of boiling water. It is in this latter kind of earthquake that 
 cities, with their populations, are swallowed up, and whole 
 districts indeed are known to have been engulfed. 
 
 The effect of the earthquake at Lisbon, which took place in 
 the reign of Joseph I. on the 1st of November, 1755, was 
 felt in various parts of Europe and Africa, and in the Atlantic 
 ocean. It is recorded that, nearly about the same hour of the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 93 
 
 day in which the greater part of Lisbon was overthrown, cu- 
 rious phenomena, in proof of some great convulsion of nature 
 having taken place, were observed in various parts of Eng- 
 land, — in the mines of Cornwall, in Berkshire, and at Kirby 
 Lonsdale, in "Westmoreland. The lake of Winandermere was 
 agitated in a very extraordinary manner, and for an instant 
 the water rose seven feet, but soon subsided to its former level. 
 Two fishermen, who were in a boat near the edge of the lake 
 repairing their fishing-tackle, found themselves suddenly car- 
 ried to a considerable distance from the shore, and were so 
 astonished, that they expected nothing less than that the 
 consummation of all things was at hand ; and in some other 
 places, the water in pools and ponds swelled like the waves of 
 the sea, overflowed their limits, and as suddenly receded with- 
 in them. 
 
 The following account of the earthquake at Lisbon, with 
 some of the phenomena which preceded and accompanied it, 
 is extracted from a publication of the day ; and you will find 
 the narrative both interesting and useful. If you desire a 
 more comprehensive account of this dreadful event, you may 
 have recourse for it to Gregory's Dictionary, or to Palmer's 
 and other detailed narratives, published shortly after its oc- 
 currence : — 
 
 "The three years previous to 1755 had been remarkably 
 dry, insomuch that some springs, which had been plentifully 
 supplied with water, were totally lost ; and the predominant 
 winds were east and north-east, accompanied with various 
 .though very small motions and tremblings of the earth. The 
 spring of 1755 was very rainy and wet; the weather on the 
 day preceding the earthquake was clear and uncommonly 
 warm for the season, and had continued clear, and rather 
 warmer than usual, for several days before. The day of the 
 earthquake broke with a serene sky, the wind continuing at 
 past; but about nine o'clock the sun began to grow dim, and 
 
94 PORTUGAL 
 
 soon after was heard a rumbling noise, like that of carriages ; 
 which increased to such a degree, as to equal that of the 
 loudest cannon ; upon which the first shock was felt, and this 
 was immediately succeeded by a second and third, the whole 
 duration of which was about eight minutes : about twelve 
 o'clock another shock was felt. During the first shock, the 
 greatest part of the public edifices and other buildings of the 
 city were thrown down ; and not less than 60,000 of its inha- 
 bitants buried in the ruins. The earth opened in fissures in 
 several parts, and several light flames of fire were observed to 
 issue from the sides of the mountains, resembling those of 
 kindled charcoal. Subterraneous rumblings were also felt, at- 
 tended with a discharge of great quantities of smoke. The 
 water in the sea rose several times, and in a few minutes made 
 three fluxes and refluxes, rising above the greatest springtides 
 no less than fifteen English feet. The shock was likewise, 
 about the same time, felt at Porto, by which the whole city 
 was shaken ; several chimnies, stones, and crosses were thrown 
 down, and some buildings opened at top ; and the swelling in 
 the river was so considerable, that two large ships, which were 
 just got over the bar, were driven back into the harbour." 
 
 It was the morning of the holyday of All Saints, when this 
 catastrophe occurred at Lisbon ; and the churches were filled 
 at the time with congregations of persons, whom piety or ap- 
 prehension had induced to take refuge within the sanctuary ; 
 but which, instead of protection and security, gave them the 
 asylum of the tomb ; for the sacred buildings were either burnt 
 by the falling of a multitude of candles, which were lighted in 
 honour of the day, or were overthrown in an instant, burying 
 every thing in their ruins. Whole families were involved at 
 once in the destruction of their houses, or were stifled or burnt 
 in their beds; a violent tempest occurring to increase the 
 horrors of the moment, by adding to the force of the flames, 
 and causing them to spread more widely over the city. A 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 95 
 
 large multitude of the inhabitants rushed to the public square, 
 to avoid destruction by the surrounding dangers ; and whilst 
 hundreds of them were on their knees, returning thanks for 
 their fancied preservation, the sea rose, and forcing the river to 
 overflow its banks, rushed into the square, and carried them, 
 as it receded, to a grave as sudden as it was dreadful. In the 
 midst of this scene of desolation, bands of negroes, soldiers, 
 sailors, and wretches who now escaped from their prisons, 
 availing themselves of the accompanying darkness, were found 
 wandering about for the purposes of plunder, violence, and 
 murder, amid the ruins. 
 
 The level of the square of the Ro5:io seems to have been the 
 principal point where the full severity of the earthquake was 
 felt : the hill, on which the castle stands, the cathedral, and 
 the Alfama, the oldest quarter of the town, covering the steep 
 hill between the castle and the Tagus, and which consists of a 
 series of narrow lanes intersecting each other, altogether 
 escaped from its violence. Some traces of this memorable 
 and calamitous convulsion are still to be seen in the ruins of 
 the college of Jesuits ; in the Largo do Carmo ; in the skeleton 
 of the church of the Carmelite monks, a Gothic edifice, like 
 the cathedral, and now sunk considerably below its original 
 level. The unfinished state of the elegant chapel, which it 
 was intended should be attached to the Franciscan convent, 
 with the surrounding inequalities of the soil, may be regarded 
 likewise as additional evidences of the destructive extent of 
 this awful visitation of Providence. 
 
 The magnificent aqueduct, erected in the reign of John V., 
 and destined to convey the water from the neighbouring hills 
 to the different fountains of the city, fortunately for the inha- 
 bitants, in great part escaped the general devastation ; and the 
 corn-houses were likewise happily saved. A large quay, ad- 
 joining the custom-house, however, was swallowed up with 
 about one hundred and fifty people, and is now under water. 
 
96 PORTUGAL 
 
 The king, queen, and all the royal family, had the good for- 
 tune to escape from the palace at the moment the building was 
 falling to the ground ; but for eight days they had no other re- 
 source than to shelter themselves in their carriages, and in 
 the royal gardens at Belem, whence succours, proportionate to 
 their means, were administered, without distinction, to the 
 surviving citizens. 
 
 The artful friars and other evil-minded ecclesiastics, inter- 
 ested as they were in producing an effect upon the popular 
 fears and ignorance ; they whose arrogant pretensions to the 
 exercise of secular power in the state had already received a 
 wholesome check at court ; did not fail, as is recorded, to dis- 
 grace their profession by giving vent to vindictive feelings at 
 this moment of a public calamity, even in the royal presence ; 
 and by preaching openly, that the righteous judgments of God 
 had been evidenced against the king and his ministers in the 
 overthrow of their city. The interference of the Pope's nuncio 
 at Lisbon was alone able to repress the unholy zeal of the en- 
 raged and turbulent priesthood, upon whom the awful catas- 
 trophe seemed to have no other influence than that of awaken- 
 ing their appetites for attempting the recovery of the power 
 which they had lately lost. In the meantime, the misery and 
 wretchedness of the half-destroyed and still burning city was 
 i?uch, as to excite the compassion of even rival nations. 
 
 Supplies of ready money were promptly afforded to the un- 
 fortunate Portuguese by his Catholic majesty ; and on the 
 frontiers of Spain, the custom-house officers received directions 
 to permit the transit into Portugal of mules laden with neces- 
 saries and provisions, without the payment of the customary 
 duties. Nor was England behindhand in rendering assist- 
 ance to her unfortunate ally. 
 
 In proof of the feelings which influenced the generous com- 
 passion of England on the occasion, may be cited the follow- 
 ing message, which was sent down by the king to the British 
 
ILLUSTRATED. - 97 
 
 parliament, stating, that " his Majesty having received from 
 his ambassador at Madrid a faithful report of the fatal and 
 deplorable event which happened at Lisbon on the 1st of 
 November, 1755, by an earthquake, which has laid waste al- 
 most the whole city, and destroyed many thousands of its in- 
 habitants, in consequence thereof those who remain must be 
 reduced to the utmost distress and necessity ; and his Majesty 
 being moved with the greatest concern for so good and faithful 
 an ally as the King of Portugal, and with the utmost compas- 
 sion for the distresses to which that city and kingdom must be 
 reduced, wherein great numbers of his Majesty's own subjects 
 were resident, and many more interested, recommends to his 
 faithful Commons the consideration of this dreadful and ex- 
 tensive calamity, which cannot fail to affect the hearts of all 
 persons who have any sense of religion or humanity, and 
 desires to be enabled to send out speedy and effectual 
 relief, as may be suitable to so afflicting and pressing a ne- 
 cessity." 
 
 The House, warmly participating in the sentiments of charity 
 and compassion so graciously expressed by his Majesty, re- 
 solved immediately, " that it would enable his Majesty to give 
 such assistance to the distressed people of Portugal as his 
 Majesty shall think fit, and that such expenses as shall be in- 
 curred by his Majesty in relieving the misery to which they 
 may be reduced by this most deplorable calamity, shall be 
 made good out of the next aids." 
 
 The spirit and talents of the minister Sebastian Carvalho, 
 (afterwards Count d'Oyeras and Marquess of Pombal,) seemed 
 to gain strength, and to acquire a new impulse in proportion 
 to the difficulties which the occasion presented. He was 
 everywhere seen encouraging the people by his counsel and 
 example. His first efforts were to extinguish the conflagra- 
 tion, now raging throughout the city ; to collect and burn in 
 quick lime the dead bodies of the inhabitants discovered 
 Port. G 
 
98 PORTUGAL 
 
 among the ruins, or bury them by boat-loads in the middle of 
 the Tagus below Belem. Passages were speedily cut across 
 the ruins ; the brigands were everywhere apprehended and 
 executed ; the military force increased, and well _equipped 
 with arms and ammunition ; and provisions were received in 
 great abundance from the provinces, or largely imported from 
 the coasts of the Mediterranean. 
 
 By the resources of mind and unshaken firmness of this 
 great minister, the fears of the inhabitants of Lisbon were at 
 length tranquillized, and their disposition to abandon for ever 
 the place of their nativity, and to form establishments in an- 
 other land, alio sub sole calentem, and not exposed to the fearful 
 visitation of earthquakes, was successfully arrested, and public 
 confidence restored by the wisdom and promptitude of his 
 measures. Still, however, the wealth of the city and its com- 
 merce were destroyed, and numerous bankruptcies, both do- 
 mestic and foreign, and particularly British, as is well known 
 both in London and Bristol, took place in consequence of the 
 general devastation of property. 
 
 Not one stone was left upon another to reveal the site of the 
 magnificent palace of the Portuguese sovereigns, and all the 
 riches of the superbly embellished church of the Lisbon pa- 
 triarch disappeared in the flames, or were lost in its ruins. 
 With all these difiiculties to contend with, the constancy and 
 courage of Pombal did not for one moment forsake him ; and 
 the rebuilding of that portion of the city which had princi- 
 pally experienced the destructive effect of the earthquake, was 
 forthwith undertaken, and in a style of splendour, commo- 
 diousness, grandeur, and beauty of architecture, that puts that 
 part of Lisbon upon an equality, in point of noble arrange- 
 ment and imposing structure, with any of the most celebrated 
 cities of Europe. 
 
 Englishmen may bear with pride in their recollections, that 
 the regenerator of Lisbon was compelled to have recourse to 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 99 
 
 their countrymen for assistance in the suggestion of plans for 
 the restoration of the ruined metropolis of Lusitania to its pre- 
 sent magnificent appearance, and even for the invention of the 
 very cement by which the stones of the buildings are united. 
 
 Although in a former letter we have complied with the po- 
 pular belief, in stating that Lisbon is situated upon seven hills, 
 like classic Rome, it is after all only a vulgar error, and as such 
 should be corrected by the more strict statement of Mr. Link, 
 who, however labouring under the effect of German jealousy 
 and prejudices against Englishmen, we can affirm, upon our 
 own experience, to be extremely accurate in his geographical 
 delineation of the ground upon which Lisbon stands. The 
 bridge of Alcantra, which is thrown across a stream, of no mag- 
 nitude but in winter, divides the Belem district or suburb from 
 the actual town of Lisbon. 
 
 A description of Belem and its various buildings we shall in- 
 clude in the account of our second visit to Lisbon, on our re- 
 turn from the provinces, in order not to destroy nor disturb the 
 unity of our present narrative, which is confined to Lisbon 
 itself. The old tradition is, that Lisbon was built by Ulysses, 
 and thence called Olyssipolis ; and it is thus noticed by Ca- 
 moens in his Lusiad : 
 
 And thou, famed Lisboa! whose embattled wall 
 Rose by the hand that wrought proud Ilion's fall. 
 
 But this olden tale, consecrated as it is by the immortal 
 poet of Portugal, may have equal pretensions to truth with the 
 fable of the first Alphonso having given, in return for their 
 important services in enabling him to defeat the Moors, and 
 lay the first foundations of the Portuguese monarchy, Almada, 
 on the height opposite Lisbon, to a party of English crusaders, 
 who, instead of proceeding to the holy land to ensure the fur- 
 ther punishment of the Infidels, preferred the proffered habi- 
 tation above the southern banks of the Tagus, which they de- 
 
100 PORTUGAL 
 
 nominated Cornualla, either in honour of their native country, 
 or from the rich meadows in its neighbourhood, where im- 
 mense herds of cattle are kept, as in the English Cornwall. 
 We have ourselves a legend of similar value concerning the 
 origin of our own metropolis, which states that Brutus Ap- 
 brute, the son of Sylvius ^Eneas, landed a colony of Trojans in 
 England, gave to the island the name of Britannia, (query 
 Brutajmia, for the polished Spaniard is free in the application 
 of the term Brute when speaking about Englishmen,) and laid 
 the foundations of the city of London. It is not quite clearly 
 fixed in our recollections, whether the temple of Diana had or 
 had not, previously to the arrival of this patriarch of travellers 
 upon our shores, been erected on the summit of the rising 
 ground above the Thames, since more advantageously occupied 
 by the erection of the Christian structure dedicated to St. 
 Paul. 
 
 After describing the beautiful background formed in the 
 landscape by the majestic, rocky, and pointed mountains of 
 Cintra, seen to the north of Lisbon ; and the imposing appear- 
 ance of the elevated range of the Serra de Arrabida, in the 
 corregimento of Setubal, on the south side of the Tagus ; and 
 again, more immediately opposite to the city, the beautiful line 
 of hill called Almada, a market town, whose church stands on the 
 summit of the first hill, (where Wellington erected fortifications 
 to cover the re-erabarkation of his troops, should the successful 
 movements of the enemy have rendered such a measure ad- 
 visable,)— Link proceeds to state that " Lisbon is nearly in the 
 same parallel as Messina in Sicily ; that the Portuguese com- 
 pute the length of the city at two leagues, and that the distance 
 from Belem to the eastern extremity of Lisbon appears to be 
 a German mile ; that its breadth is various, often but small, 
 and sometimes quite inconsiderable, not exceeding one street, 
 but never much more than half a league ; that it is quite open 
 on all sides, having neither walls nor gates, nor even any forti- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 101 
 
 fications, except a small castle in the middle of the town, and 
 a number of batteries or small forts on the river ; and that the 
 site of the city is very hilly. The first hill," he says, " begins 
 at the bridge of Alcantra, forming the proper western limit 
 of the town, and extends to the Rua de San Bento. It is un- 
 questionably the highest, and from its salubrious air one of its 
 streets bears the Spanish name of Buenos Ayres, instead of the 
 Portuguese words Boms Ares. At the western extremity it 
 is but little cultivated ; but farther to the eastward, up to its 
 summit, it forms a plain, which runs in the direction of east, 
 and upon this level the new convent of the Estrella for Carme- 
 lite nuns is built. In many parts it is so steep, that it is a 
 labour to walk the streets ; and even the lower street, which 
 runs along the river, rises and falls considerably. During the 
 heavy rains, the water rushes down the streets with such vio- 
 lence that they are often impassable ; and at the bottom of the 
 Calf ada da Estrella some Gallegos are stationed, who carry the 
 passengers across for a trifle. Men and horses are sometimes 
 carried away by the torrent, and drowned. This inconve- 
 nience, however, is attended with the advantage of washing 
 away the filth, and cleansing the town. Immediately after the 
 earthquake, this hill was more built upon, as the shocks were 
 much less severe in this quarter of the city. For this reason, 
 and for the salubrity of the air, foreigners prefer these situa- 
 tions ; and hence many handsome houses are interspersed in 
 various parts." 
 
 In fact, the residence of the French ambassador and most 
 of the eminent English merchants, — of the commander of the 
 British forces, and the favourite lodging-houses of travellers, 
 and the comparatively excellent hotel kept by Mrs. Reeves, 
 are situated in Buenos Ayres. The streets, generally speak- 
 ing, are irregularly built, ill-paved, often narrow, and not un- 
 frequently full of new but small and wretched houses. The 
 ga,rdens, vineyards, and corn-fields, interspersed among the 
 
102 PORTUGAL 
 
 buildings, and contrasting with the dirtiness of the town, give 
 it an oriental appearance. 
 
 On this hill the queen Maria, whose weak powers of mind 
 were totally destroyed through the fearful representations of 
 an hereafter by her confessor, some few years before the exile 
 of the royal family to Brasil, erected a church and a convent 
 in the performance of a vow made to obtain from heaven an 
 heir to the crown, which she dedicated to the heart of Jesus. 
 The four colossal statues, at the principal entrance under a 
 magnificent peristyle, have an imposing appearance, and it is 
 altogether a beautiful building ; though much cannot be said 
 in favour of the style of its architecture, nor of the super- 
 fluous load of ornament by which it is rather encumbered 
 perhaps, than adorned. Its dome or cupola is, however, deci- 
 dedly a pleasing elevation, and, notwithstanding the profusion 
 of embellishments, unites with the airy character of the white 
 limestone of which it is built, (admitting as good all the ob- 
 jections that might be urged in the severity of architectural 
 criticism,) to give the building a rich and elegant character. 
 The interior of the church corresponds with its exterior in a 
 display of wealth and magnificence. The side altars are nu- 
 merous, and contain one or two specimens of royal skill in 
 painting ; but to excellence upon the canvas, it is quite clear 
 that there is no more a royal road, than to perfection in other 
 matters. 
 
 An immense sum of money has been thrown away upon the 
 decoration of the high altar, and the gilding of the different 
 small chapels upon the sides of the nave, as well as upon the 
 roof and the interior of the cupola. Nothing, however, can 
 be in worse taste than the allegorical representation of the 
 adoration offered to the heart of Jesus, (seated in the heavens 
 above, and radiant with glory,) from Europe, Asia, Africa, and 
 America, personated by human figures, which forms the sub- 
 ject of the large picture of the high altar. Mr. Southey re- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 103 
 
 lates that the dimensions of this altar-piece, as well as the 
 subject, ' Christ's heart !' were sent to Pompeio Battoni, of 
 which he was to make what he could. The figure of Europe 
 is that of a female loosely dressed, on a horse whose hinder 
 parts are foremost on the canvas. A Portuguese remarked 
 that it was very wrong to place such an altar-piece there, and 
 make people kneel to an half-naked woman, and the rump 
 of a horse ! How much better would it have been, said he, to 
 have placed the performance of the princess there, (meaning 
 the painting of Michael and the old dragon, over one of the 
 side altars in the nave ;) and you will scarcely believe that the 
 drain from the new convent opens into the middle of one of 
 the public streets. 
 
 On the north side of the high altar, there is a large oblong 
 monument of black marble, with four grim death's-heads at 
 the angles, crowned with chaplets of ivy gilt ; and upon the 
 top of the sarcophagus is a medallion in white marble, upon 
 which is engraved a portrait of the foundress, and underneath 
 is the following inscription, of which, as a short specimen of 
 Portuguese epitaphian Latin, we cannot forbear making a tran- 
 scription : — 
 
 Quam viventem Lusitani videre haud poterant, nisi laetiti^ gesti, 
 Entes ejus emortuEe signum quis sine lacrymis aspiciet? 
 
 Leaving the barracks to the right, behind which there are 
 some palm-trees growing in a garden ; and crossing an open 
 square, and then ascending rather a steep but short street, 
 we came to the gates of the English burial-ground. Fur. her 
 on, and higher up to the left from the principal street, there 
 are some barracks, at the moment of which we are speaking, 
 occupied by one of our regiments of guards, and almost imme- 
 diately overlooking the unequal plain, where the commander 
 of the British forces was accustomed to hold reviews and ma- 
 noeuvre his troops, and where we were present at some sham 
 fights, in which the discipline of Clinton's fine men was 
 
104 PORTUGAL 
 
 proudly exhibited, and elicited the frequent "Bonito! Bo- 
 nito!" of the astonished Portuguese, and particularly the 
 gigantic march of the towering grenadier company of the 
 63rd, whose colonel may and does justly boast that they cover 
 more ground than any grenadier company in any one of his 
 Majesty's regiments. At the time this gratifying display of 
 British height and muscle and military tactics was being 
 made, we could not but feel proud of belonging to the same 
 soil, that had to boast the birth of such a noble race ; and look- 
 ing upon the crowds of diminutive natives who surrounded 
 the few English spectators, we could not help, with a secret 
 satisfaction, remarking all the difference there was between the 
 Islander and the child of the Peninsula. 
 
 This plain, in which our cavalry and infantry were exer- 
 cised, is called, we believe, the Campo do Ourique. But we 
 were at the gates of the Protestant cemetery, and there let us 
 pause during a moment, under the quiet shade of its mournful 
 cypresses. There is an oriental character about this pleas- 
 ingly sorrowful spot, which possesses a peculiar charm, and 
 which makes an impression on the memory that can never 
 be effaced. 
 
 Treading with gentle step upon a surface beneath which so 
 many of our countrymen were awaiting, in this peaceful retreat 
 from the evils of mortality, "the dread call of nature's God" 
 to a higher and more glorious habitation in the heavens, — of 
 whom many had sunk upon the earth in the flower of youth, — • 
 many in the midst of the promises and expectations of a ma- 
 turer age, like the tree laden with blossoms, even in its fall ; — 
 amidst records that told of the bereavement of a father's hope 
 and of a mother's solace, — of many a young aspirant to mili- 
 tary distinction arrested early in his cajeer of honour; — of 
 some academical youths likewise, to whom the page of learn- 
 ing could scarcely have been opened, — ^we yet sought in vain 
 for the tomb of Fielding, whose remains were, we knew, never- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 105 
 
 theless deposited here, and were mortified by not discovering 
 it. The cemetery is extensive, and planted with a variety of 
 trees not usually seen in our northern churchyards, and which, 
 mingling their rich and deep foliage, create a welcome shade 
 for those who have hearts to pause here and learn a lesson 
 from contemplating the untimely wrecks of mortality. To how 
 many of those that were now sleeping here the sleep of death, 
 might Young's touching complaint of Narcissa's fate have 
 been applied ! 
 
 1. 
 
 Soon as the lustre languished in her eye. 
 Dawning a dimmer day on human sight; 
 And on her cheek, the residence of spring. 
 Pale omen sat, and scattered fears around 
 On all that saw, (and who would cease to gaze. 
 That once had seen ?) with haste, parental haste, 
 
 2. 
 
 I flew, I snatched her from the rigid north. 
 Her native bed, on which bleak Boreas blew. 
 And bore her nearer to the sun ; the sun, 
 (As if the sun could envy) checked his beam. 
 Denied his wonted succour, or with more 
 Regret beheld her drooping . 
 
 Among the monuments, we found one erected to Thomas 
 Parr, by order of the general court of governors of Christ's 
 Hospital, in 1792 ; and on the portico of the receiving house, 
 looking down an avenue in the cemetery, we observed the fol- 
 lowing inscription, which shows that this sacred spot was pur- 
 chased by the British and Dutch merchants united, 
 
 Impensis Britannorum et Batavorum, 1794. 
 
 Returning through the gates into the street, we passed the 
 bier which is commonly used in transporting bodies to the 
 receiving house, where they await the rites of interment. The 
 mattress spread upon it, as well as the pillow, was drenched 
 
106 PORTUGAL 
 
 with blood ; perhaps, it occurred to us, of some Englishman 
 who had fallen under the knife of a Portuguese assassin ; but 
 the sight was too horrid, and our feelings at the moment were 
 altogether too much saddened, to allow of our lingering to 
 make an enquiry into the cause of that appearance. 
 
 The second hill, which we now reached by crossing the 
 hollow from the Rua de San Bento, extends to the valley in 
 which the new part of the city, erected by Pombal after the 
 earthquake, is situated. 
 
 The monastery of San Bento is an immense building, whose 
 long fai^ade occupies a line of not less than one hundred and 
 fifty feet ; and is further remarkable for being the depository 
 of the royal archives, in other terms the Torre do Tombo, and 
 those also of the diplomatic school, which are strictly pre- 
 served in the arched vaults underneath the abbey. The 
 church is a large structure, not yet, however, completed. It 
 has no nave, but the chapels in the wings of the quire are 
 sufficiently capacious, and their decorations are managed with 
 considerable judgment and taste. The sacristy and the library 
 both merit the attention of the inquiring traveller. 
 
 Excepting, as Link observes, a few of the principal streets, 
 the rest are crooked, narrow, and destitute of regularity; 
 the small streets leading down to the bank of the river 
 are horridly dirty. At the foot of the eastern side of this hill, 
 the earthquake did great damage ; and here, as in many other 
 places, traces of that convulsion appear in ruined churches 
 and monasteries. The opera-house is situated on the eastern 
 declivity. Above the public promenade beyond the Pra^a do 
 E,oifio, which communicates by the three beautiful streets 
 of Ouro, Augusta, and da Prata, with the Praja do Com- 
 mercio, or Terreiro do Pago, this hill rises to a considerable 
 height, and is very steep towards the next valley. The view 
 from this eminence is uncommonly fine. In the valley 
 beneath appears the be^t part of the town; to the left, are 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 107 
 
 olive gardens, interspersed with country-houses, monasteries, 
 and churches ; opposite is the high steep hill on which the 
 castle stands, and to the left the Tagus covered with ships. 
 This hill is succeeded by an even valley of considerable length 
 and breadth, which forms the broadest part of the town. 
 This valley was totally destroyed by the earthquake of 1755, 
 after which it was entirely rebuilt. It is somewhat singular 
 that the limits of the effects of that convulsion should be so 
 strongly marked, for on the steep declivity of the mountain 
 the streets and houses remained. On the bank of the river 
 the valley begins with the large and handsome square, known 
 quite as well in Lisbon by the English appellation of Black- 
 horse Square, as by the French name Place du Commerce, 
 and the Portuguese Praf a do Commercio ; or by the name of 
 Palace Place, which it received from the royal residence 
 situated on the site, and which was destroyed at the time of 
 the earthquake. 
 
 This beautiful square is bounded by the Tagus and a noble 
 quay to the south, where the busy scene, hourly witnessed, 
 of embarkations and disembarkations, groups of sailors and 
 stout Gallegos, fruit and water vessels from the opposite 
 shore, and numerous gondolas, or pleasure-boats ; in fact, all 
 the concentrated bustle of a commercial city, — is a source of 
 infinite amusement to crowds of loungers, natives as well as 
 strangers. 
 
 To the east, west, and north of the square, there is a fine 
 range of public buildings, elevated on arcades ; that to the 
 west is now only in progress towards completion. They will, 
 however, it is said, be speedily finished. On this side 
 are the law offices, courts of judicature, and the national 
 library, founded by Queen Mary in the early part of her reign, 
 from forty to fifty years since, and rather extensive in its 
 collection of books. The departments of history and divinity 
 appear to be the best furnished ; but in classical works there 
 
108 PORTUGAL 
 
 is abundant room for addition. However, it was gratifying to 
 observe the various apartments occupied by students whose 
 principal pursuits were law, medicine, natural and general 
 subjects of history; for we could not fail to anticipate the 
 most beneficial results from this literary industry to the future 
 generation of Portuguese. A richly illuminated Hebrew 
 bible, and a statue of the royal foundress, in a Parisian dress 
 nearly modern, were the principal curiosities shown to us. 
 The librarian conversed with us in French, and mentioned 
 that the ecclesiastical books filled with the farragos of absur- 
 dity concocted by the artful and selfish friars when in the 
 plenitude of their monastic power, were now happily slumber- 
 ing in disuse, and that the public taste for monkish dreams 
 and fictions was now evidently on the decline. The diplo- 
 matic agents, both at home and abroad, were, he informed us, 
 regularly paid, but the librarians had not received one tostaS 
 during the last nine months ; and most feelingly added, " we 
 are not, you know, book-worms, and therefore cannot be 
 supposed to exist upon paper and leather." 
 
 There are three other hbraries, each containing a respecta- 
 ble collection of books, and some curious manuscripts ; that of 
 Nossa Senhora, de Jesus ; Saint Vincent de Fora, a Palladian 
 structure, beyond the limits of the old town ; and at the con- 
 vent of Saint Francis, where space and regularity are wanting 
 to the perfect arrangement of the books in one large and 
 separate apartment, as should be the case for the more ready 
 access to them by the studious among the monks. 
 
 The establishment of an academy of sciences at Lisbon, 
 whose useful transactions, although they are not upon a very 
 extended scale, are annually published, and numerous pubHc 
 schools of general education, or colleges as they are pompously 
 termed, would argue that there must be some -science as well 
 as learning among the Portuguese. 
 
 In the centre of the square our attention was fixed by the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 109 
 
 finely executed equestrian statue of Joseph I., the work, as 
 well as the statue of the Queen in the library, of Joaquim 
 Machado de Castro, considered in Portugal the Canova of the 
 country, who is the author likewise of the beautiful groups 
 entitled Our Lady of the Incarnation, and of the noble statues, 
 representing Generosity and Gratitude, in the royal palace of 
 the Ajuda. Emblematical trophies and figures are distributed 
 upon the four squares of the base of the statue, upon one face 
 of which was formerly seen a resemblance in bronze of the 
 Marquess of Pombal, which the altered politics of the suc- 
 ceeding reign vindictively, at the instigation of the ecclesiasti- 
 cal orders, tore from the pedestal ; as if the court itself, the 
 Portuguese church, and the nation at large, were not deeply 
 disgraced by such a deed ; and as if any monument could be 
 wanting to immortalize the fame of Sebastian Carvalho, while 
 the surrounding buildings should be allowed by Providendfe to 
 stand the records of his grandeur and energies of mind. A 
 medallion of the city arms has been affixed in its stead, which 
 consist of a vessel in full sail, with a crow, stem and stern, 
 conducting it, according to the ancient legend, into port, after 
 having suffered severely in a tempest. 
 
 The fine statue of the King was moulded and cast by 
 Bartholomeu da Costa, who, from a simple soldier of artillery, 
 attained to a high grade in the army, and became distin- 
 guished for his taste in the arts. 
 
 The masonry, and the peculiarly excellent mode adopted 
 by the Portuguese in chiselling and converting the large 
 blocks of calcareous stone supplied from the neighbouring 
 quarries, is well worthy of observation ; nor less so the ele- 
 gance and skill exhibited in the construction of their houses, 
 which are first built up in timber frame-work, of immense 
 strength, and solidly compacted. Then the stone casing is 
 applied round the whole, and with this view, that on the 
 occurrence of an earthquake, the facing of stone may separate 
 
no PORTUGAL 
 
 itself in a concussion from the wooden compages of the struc- 
 ture, and fall without endangering the remainder. But still it 
 would appear that the peril of fire is not at all obviated by 
 this architectural expedient, for should the calamity be ever 
 renewed in the evening, or during the night, the very agitation 
 of the ground would cause the candles and lighted coals to fly 
 about in all directions, and ensure more certainly, under such 
 a system of building, a general conflagration. The experience 
 of the dreadful effects produced by fire at the great earthquake, 
 should point out the indispensable necessity of making every 
 possible provision against the recurrence at all events of that 
 portion of the calamity. 
 
 Among the public buildings above the eastern arcade, may 
 be enumerated the East India House, the Custom House, the 
 offices of the marine and municipal administration, and at its 
 southern extremity, rather a handsome building, the ground^ 
 floor of which serves as the Exchange, and immediately opens 
 upon the Tagus. 
 
 The three principal streets, which have been already no- 
 ticed, and are known in common parlance by the appellation 
 of Gold, Silver, and Cloth Streets, from the different trades 
 which are conducted in them, open into the Prag a do Roifio, 
 and are cut at right angles by several smaller streets, rendered 
 commodious likewise for pedestrians by raised foot-paths and 
 numerous stone pillars placed at intervals as a security from 
 carriage wheels, which are called by the common people the 
 padres das pedras, or stone monks ! The houses are handsome, 
 and consist of several floors, as at Edinburgh, and in some 
 parts of Paris. Numerous families inhabit the same dwelling, 
 and the shops upon a level with the street display considera- 
 ble wealth and taste in the manufactured articles on sale. 
 
 The square of the Roifio is of an oblong shape, and its area 
 is considerably less extensive than that of the Pra^a do Com- 
 mercio, just described. It is entirely surrounded by. shops 
 
ILLUSTRATED. Ill 
 
 and coffee-houses ; but the latter so little resembled those of 
 Paris in comfort, splendour, and cleanliness, that our visits to 
 them were not frequently repeated. The favourite evening- 
 promenade seems to be in this square, to judge from the 
 invariable assemblage of Portuguese of all classes there to- 
 wards sunset. The large building of the Inquisition occupies 
 nearly the whole of its northern line, and faces the streets 
 which lead into the Commercial Square. It is now happily 
 devoted to other purposes than to the fell tyranny of those 
 agents of Satan, who, during so long a period, held in its 
 dungeons their Moloch reign of blood ; and thus, at all events, 
 it may be said in favour of the Constitution, that it has purged 
 in its torrent this Augsean stable of its moral filth, offences, 
 and iniquities, and has nobly served the cause of Christianity 
 and of suffering humanity in breaking open the doors of this 
 accursed prison-house, and in terminating for ever the usurped 
 authority of its hateful tribunal. The two Chambers occupy 
 one part of this building, and the remainder is given up to 
 several public offices. 
 
 In the Prafa da Alegria the public execution of criminals 
 used to take place; whence we are to presume, upon the 
 principle of " lucus a non lucendo," that the appellation was 
 taken ; and near it, on every Tuesday, as has been described 
 in the foregoing letter, a fair is held of second-hand wares, 
 exhibited on a long wall at the back of the gardens do Salitre. 
 
 In the Pra^a da Figueira fruits and vegetables are sold, as 
 in our Covent Garden, where, sixty years since, there was 
 scarcely an esculent herb to be seen; and likewise in the 
 Pra^a de San Paulo, where game and fowls are sold, as well as 
 in the space situated between the Terreiro Publico, or corn- 
 market, and the Black-horse, or Commercial Square. 
 
 To the west of this Praif a do Commercio is the fish-market 
 erected on the banks of the Tagus, which exceeds the morn- 
 ing exhibitions of our Billingsgate as much in the beauty and 
 
112 PORTUGAL 
 
 variety of its fish, as it probably does in the choice and ele- 
 gance of the terms peculiar to the piscatory profession. 
 
 Near this place is the Cais Sodr6, a smaller square, at the 
 bottom of the steep street of the second hill, and towards the 
 river, flanked by the quay, off which the steam-vessels moor, 
 and almost fronting the large street Alecrim, which is partly 
 built on arches, and which runs along the open spaces of 
 Quintella and Loreto. 
 
 In the arsenal, where our troops landed a few months since, 
 there is nothing remarkable, nor in the cannon foundry, to 
 merit a distinct detail. 
 
 The dockyard is scarcely as extensive as many of the largest 
 of our private ship-builders on the banks of the Thames and 
 the Avon. In the naval school we found an old battered 
 seaman, with a couple of epaulets on his shoulders, giving a 
 party of young midshipmen a very useful lecture upon ropes' 
 ends. 
 
 In the square, of which the front of the arsenal forms the 
 southern line, separating it from the Tagus, there is an ele- 
 vated column, surmounted by a double-headed axe, under 
 which it is said that the public decapitation of traitorous 
 fidalgos used to be effected. The backs of some of the houses 
 in the Rua San Francisco, situated upon the height to the 
 north, immediately overlook this square to the front gates, 
 and indeed down the whole of the facade of the arsenal. The 
 principal street, which may be traced through all its windings 
 and inequalities along the banks of the Tagus, from Belem to 
 the most eastern point of Lisbon, runs under the arsenal, at 
 the bottom of this square, from west to east. On the eastern 
 side of the square is that deciduous establishment the national 
 bank, as it is called ; more of which when we come to speak 
 of the currency of Portugal. 
 
 In walking about the streets of Lisbon, it might be supposed, 
 considering the oppressive heat of the climate, that it would 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 113 
 
 be advisable to wear light or thin clothing ; but a stranger to 
 the place would soon discover that, whilst it is exposed to the 
 beams of an ardent sun, it is equally obnoxious to cold cur- 
 rents of air from the north, and that the greatest caution is 
 required in providing against the variations in the ever- 
 changeable state of the atmosphere. During the greater part 
 of the year, those streets which open to the north are constantly 
 liable to the chilling influence of almost hyperborean blasts, 
 which are of sufficient force to annihilate an invalid by sud- 
 denly checking the insensible perspiration, inducing conse- 
 quent fever, and terminating at last in producing confirmed 
 pulmonary disease. That it should have been so long the 
 fashion in England to send delicate subjects to seek an 
 improvement of health under such a climate as this, is a 
 matter of astonishment to those who have learned from expe- 
 rience all its inconveniences and dangers, and who know, 
 above all, the very few comforts afforded in the generality of 
 Portuguese houses which it would be essential for an invalid 
 to enjoy. 
 
 The principal disorders of the body to which a residence in 
 Lisbon, or in its neighbourhood, subjects the constitution, are 
 apoplexy, paralysis, derangement of the digestive system, 
 malignant catarrhal affections, liver complaints, acute rheuma- 
 tism, colds, " constipafofes," and inflammations in the bowels. 
 
 The native inhabitants of Lisbon, male and female, are 
 generally seen in loose cloaks, made of cloth, as a preserva- 
 tive against the influence of the eddies of cold air which are 
 met at the corners of the streets, intersecting those that run 
 down from the high grounds, and terminate in the direction of 
 the Tagus. The women of the middling class, when they 
 walk out, have generally a square muslin kerchief, half 
 doubled, upon the head, as a security from the effects of heat 
 and cold, whose snowy whiteness contrasts prettily with their 
 sombre dress and dark complexions; while the vivacity of 
 Port. H 
 
114 PORTUGAL 
 
 their expressive eyes, and their beautiful ringlets of black hair, 
 tell how much nature has done for them in the way of orna- 
 ment. The females of condition are generally attired in the 
 French or English fashions, and consequently their mode of 
 dress has no peculiar and distinctive character to be noticed : 
 this remark, indeed, applies equally to the style of dress adopt- 
 ed by the males belonging to the better classes. 
 
 Crowds of the second class of women are generally to be 
 found attending the celebration of mass in the different 
 churches, whose deportment however, during the consecration 
 of the holy sacrament, and when retiring from the house of 
 prayer, would not induce a Protestant to believe that very 
 deeply-rooted religious feelings could induce the assemblage 
 of people together in a place for which they manifest so little 
 outward respect. In fact, such are the indecencies and im- 
 proprieties committed by the lower classes in the churches 
 during divine service, that respectable families are compelled 
 to withdraw altogether from the contamination of the crowd, 
 and purchase the Pope's dispensation to have the mass cele- 
 brated daily in the private oratories of their own houses. 
 
 It has been publicly asserted, but with what degree of truth 
 we are unable to state, that such is the poverty and disregard 
 of decorum on the part of the Portuguese government, that 
 when a person dies without leaving behind sufficient to defray 
 the expenses of his funeral, the dead body is laid on the pave- 
 ment of the most public street, with a box upon the breast, 
 into which passers-by drop copper or silver coin, until suffi- 
 cient has been thus obtained to defray the expense of inter- 
 ment ; and that a soldier stands at the head of the body to see 
 that no money is abstracted ; for in Portugal even the sacred 
 purpose for which it is intended would not secure it without 
 this protection. Such an instance not having fallen under our 
 own personal observation, it is impossible to affirm the truth 
 of this assertion. The probabilities, however, are greatly in 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 115 
 
 support of its correctness, for we have remarked that armed 
 soldiers are always stationed during the day in the churches 
 close to the favourite shrines, where the wealthy offerings of 
 devotees are most abundant, as a preventive against the com- 
 mission of sacrilegious thefts, numerous cases of which oc- 
 curred during the period of our residence in the country. 
 
 It is the custom of a good Portuguese to bestow, each day, 
 some little portion of his substance in charity upon the numer- 
 ous claimants who present themselves in every form, and in 
 every degree of filth and wretchedness, at the corner of each 
 street ; and the little donation is made, as we have frequently 
 observed, with that kindness of look and manner which be- 
 speaks the heaven-descended principle that prompts the com- 
 passionate act. 
 
 What may be the amount of the population of Lisbon, it 
 would perhaps be difficult to state accurately, and conjecture 
 is hardly to be admitted on such a subject. Still, as every 
 house is numbered, an exact census might be easily taken, 
 were not frauds practised to interfere with the accomplishment 
 of the truth, as in many other instances, which might be cited, 
 (if the mismanagement and dishonesty of the government offi- 
 cers. The Portuguese themselves say that the population of 
 Lisbon, and of the market-towns included within the limits of 
 the Comarca, may be estimated at not much more than 
 600,000 souls. 
 
 You do not, however, meet at the tables in Portugal, ex- 
 cepting those of the higher class of intelligent merchants, with 
 that degree of ready information which would be forthcoming 
 from Englishmen of a much lower rank, upon all subjects con- 
 nected in any way with the interests of their country. In 
 fact, correct reports of political events, of the roads, and of the 
 internal state of the provinces, can only be procured from the 
 mercantile illuminati, who appear to have their eyes and ears 
 everywhere on the alert. 
 
IIG PORTUGAL 
 
 The Portuguese generally are not great travellers in their 
 own country, and hence the wretched accommodations afforded 
 in the Estalagems of the remote districts. However influenced 
 by a Chinese sort of jealousy in the obstinate defence of even 
 what is truly objectionable in the features and habits of the 
 provinces, they seldom themselves can discover any interest 
 in those objects, in pursuit of which travellers visit Portugal, 
 and which are sufficiently numerous and attractive to induce 
 agreeable delays on the route. Thus strangers, generally 
 speaking, are far better acquainted with the geography, the 
 population, the productions, cities, architecture, rivers and 
 forests, mountain and landscape of scenery of Portugal, than 
 the natives themselves. It has been said that a Portuguese 
 can steer a ship to Brasil with less difficulty than he can guide 
 his mule from Lisbon to Porto. 
 
 The cathedral, or S6, known also as the Basilica de Santa 
 Maria, is situated on the inclination of a steep acclivity in the 
 eastern part of the town, and has been in a great measure re- 
 built since the earthquake in a mixed style of ancient and 
 modern Gothic, and particularly the quire. There is nothing 
 very remarkable in the architecture of this church, but the 
 wealth displayed upon its principal and side altars, and the nu- 
 merous ex-votos in wax suspended round the columns and pil- 
 lars, so as almost to conceal the stone-work, attract hither 
 daily crowds of Romanists and heretics. The filth, however, 
 of the church, and the pestilential system of exclusive burial 
 within its walls, as everywhere else, in direct violation of the 
 old ecclesiastical canon, which absolutely forbade the custom, 
 render a visit to its curiosities almost intolerable. The stench 
 of corrupting mortality beneath the wooden flooring is such, as 
 to be quite overpowering ; and the subject of astonishment is, 
 that this horrid custom has not already produced some ende- 
 mical disease. 
 
 In the church of Saint Roque, owing to the insufferable 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 117 
 
 stench which prevailed, it was impossible for us to remain a 
 sufficient time to perfect our examination of the three magni- 
 ficent specimens of Mosaic in the chapel of the Baptist ; but 
 the cursory view which we did persevere in taking of them, 
 enables us to say that the centre-piece, the subject of which 
 is the baptism of John, can scarcely be distinguished from a 
 picture, and that the two representations on either side have 
 almost equal merit, and that, in short, the three taken toge- 
 ther are so surprising in their effect, that they stand almost 
 alone and unrivalled in the arts. They were brought from 
 Rome by the orders of John V. for the Jesuits, who at that 
 time possessed the church. 
 
 On the summit of the hill is the citadel, or castle of Lisbon, 
 called also O Castello dos Mouros, now a mere ruin, but occu- 
 pied by a battalion of Portuguese soldiers, who have charge of 
 the small battery that commands the town. Here we found 
 some recruits at their drill on the parade ground; and the 
 brutal treatment which they experienced from their officers in 
 blows and kicks, whilst it made our blood boil with indigna- 
 tion, that the dignity of the human being should be so out- 
 raged, conveyed to us at the same time a pretty intelligible 
 reason why the common soldiers of the Portuguese army, as is 
 well known to be the case, lament that heroic act of undoubted 
 constitutional wisdom and patriotism, which removed Lord 
 Beresford and the British officers from the commands which 
 they respectively held. 
 
 Near the castle is the prison of Limoeiro, which was in 
 former times the residence of the Portuguese sovereigns. This 
 prison is capable of containing about seven hundred people ; 
 the usual number, however, who are confined at one time, 
 being only four hundred. The state of the cells in which the 
 criminals are doomed to drag on a miserable existence, is truly 
 revolting. The stench arising from the close packing of so 
 many human beings within a narrow compass, and the total 
 
118 PORTUGAL 
 
 absence of all attention to cleanliness and to the free circulation 
 of air, frequently occasion even the casual visitor to retire from 
 its inspection positively indisposed. The expenses attending 
 the maintenance of the prisoners amount only to eight thou- 
 sand cruzados, or nearly one thousand pounds of our money per 
 annum. Of this sum the moiety used to be paid by the city, 
 and the other by the Misericordia, or board of superintendants 
 of the public hospitals. The food of the prisoners is both bad 
 and insufBcient ; it consists chiefly of caldo, or weak vegetable 
 soup, with an admixture of rice. The allowance of bread is 
 in the proportion of one pound and a half per diem for four 
 persons. But, in all fairness, it should be added that the 
 prisoners have constant communication with their friends 
 through the iron bars of the prison windows, by which means 
 additional supplies of food may be obtained. The condition 
 of the prisons generally in Portugal, resembles this descrip- 
 tion of the Limoeiro at Lisbon. 
 
 From the elevation on which this prison stands, and from 
 the roof of the convent in the Rua San Francisco, as from the 
 height of Buenos Ayres, the most delightful and extensive 
 views are obtained of Lisbon, the crowded Tagus, and the 
 opposite line of shore, nearly from above Aldea Gallega, in- 
 cluding the lofty town of Palmella and Almada, down to the 
 mouth of the Tagus, and into the Atlantic ocean. 
 
 At no great distance from the cathedral there is a new 
 street, in the neighbourhood of which the remains of a Roman 
 theatre were discovered towards the close of the last century. 
 The church dos Martyres, which stands on the spot where 
 Alphonso L accompHshed the defeat of the Moors, takes pre- 
 cedence of all the others in public solemnities, as the most 
 ancient parish of Lisbon. The sacristy of the church da Graf a 
 contains the mausoleum of Alphonso Albuquerque, the cele- 
 brated viceroy of India. 
 
 The palace of the king's grand huntsman, do Monteiro 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 119 
 
 Mor, has long been appropriated to the difFerent departments 
 of the general post-office, the Correio geral, as it is called in 
 Portuguese. 
 
 The third hill, of which we have been speaking, continues 
 from the eminence on which the castle of Lisbon is situated, 
 to the eastern extremity of the town. This part of the city 
 also consists of narrow, irregular, ill-paved streets. It appears 
 from the style of building that this is the oldest part of Lisbon, 
 the houses being narrow, but high, containing many stories, 
 and bearing Gothic ornaments ; a mode of building which has 
 been justly exploded in a country where earthquakes are so 
 frequent. Following the river to the eastward of Lisbon, 
 small houses continue almost all the way, and one village 
 succeeds to another, from Beato Antonio to Prajpa da Prata, 
 Portella, Sacavem, Porta de Ferrao, and nearly up to the 
 Villa Nova, (opposite the fort and ferry da Rainha,) where the 
 main road leaves the Tagus, and branches off to the left in the 
 direction of Santarem : — 
 
 Sed fugit interest, fugit irreparabile tempus, 
 Singula dum capti circumvectamur amore. 
 
 So let US hasten to give you a brief description, before we part, 
 of the subject represented in the accompanying sketch. As a 
 state-trick to be played oflF in favour of Absolutism against the 
 possible revival of the constitutional system, at the moment in 
 abeyance, owing to the folly or the dishonesty of the liberals, 
 the idea was conceived by the courtling priesthood, who hoped 
 to rule again by means of fictions, of putting our lady of Grace, 
 represented by a little earthen figure, into a rabbit-hole, 
 whence she is dignified by the title of Nossa Senhora da 
 Rocha, or do Boraco. She is also distinguished by another 
 alias, that of Nossa Senhora da Conceif ao. This said conde- 
 scension of our Lady of Grace to imprisonment for some days 
 in a dark hole, was to be rewarded by future elevation to great 
 glory and wealth. Accordingly, being discovered by some boys 
 
120 PORTUGAL 
 
 and their dogs, who were hunting among the rocks for the wild 
 denizens, and thinking of any thing else than meeting with di- 
 vinity in a rabbit burrow, a report of her presence was made to 
 the priesthood, the royal family, and the populace. Her ap- 
 pearance at such a crisis could only be intended, as the disin- 
 terested priests took care to represent, and to have the false- 
 hood swallowed by the public, for the defence of the absolute 
 king, the Romish creed, the ecclesiastical establishment, and 
 the country at large, from the renewal of all attempts against 
 either by that Philistine race, the constitutional declaimers. 
 The terrors of ecclesiastical denunciations were added in order 
 to enforce and ensure the popular belief in the supposed reality 
 of this abominable fiction. 
 
 After remaining, therefore, that length of time in the bowels 
 of the earth required by the peculiar law of this exquisite 
 drama, or rather farce, Nossa Senhora was at length duly 
 extracted from her hiding-place, and borne, with every cir- 
 cumstance of priestly pomp and royal pride, to the doors of 
 the cathedral, where the good old king, and the queen, with 
 all their family, were awaiting her arrival, in order to attend 
 the installation of Nossa Senhora over the altar, thenceforth 
 devoted to her service, and to receive the offerings of the 
 devout for no one person's benefit but her own. Regal dona- 
 tions of splendid jewels, and silver lamps; tiaras enriched 
 with precious stones ; necklaces and rosaries of pearls or dia- 
 monds ; silver candlesticks, and bouquets of artificial flowers ; 
 innumerable letters; and the members of the body, repre- 
 sented in wax, soon decorated the shrine of Nossa Senhora do 
 Boraco. 
 
 One would have cried out with the multitude of another 
 country, " great is Diana of the Ephesians," if this little figure 
 of earth had not met with an accident in the hands of a priest 
 who was changing her external habiliments. She slipped 
 through his fingers upon the ground, and— O infandum !—vjz.s. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 121 
 
 broken ! Happily, she was pleased to revive, after a miraculous 
 manner, in another earthen composition resembling the ori- 
 ginal, according to particular metamorphosic laws ; for the 
 " great gains" were not to be given up, Nossa Senhora II,, 
 incorporating her own fragments, has continued equally the 
 object of culto with her first self, and is as wealthy eis formerly ; 
 is guarded too as strictly as ever by the military ; and more- 
 over, is reported to have administered consolation by her pre- 
 sence to the sovereign Joao VI,, when all human skill for 
 the preservation of his life had been pronounced vain and 
 hopeless. 
 
 NOSSA SENHORA DA COXCEIif AO ; OR, DA llOCHA ; 
 OTHERWISE, NOSSA SEXHORA DO BORACO, 
 
122 PORTUGAL 
 
 LETTER V. 
 
 Lo ! Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes 
 In variegated maze of mount and glem 
 Ah me ! what hand can pencil guide, or pen. 
 To follow half on which the eye dilates, 
 Through views more dazzling unto mortal ken 
 Than those whereof such things the bard relates, 
 Who to the awe-struck world unlock'd Elysium's gates. 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 Cintra, 1827. 
 
 The idea of quitting Lisbon, after sundry days of painful 
 endurance of heat, stench, and filth, for 
 
 Cintra's cold domain. 
 The soothing refuge of the Naiad train, — 
 
 was quite delightful and exhilarating. As we entered the 
 s6ge, our imaginations drew scenes of paradisal bli§s, con- 
 sisting of bubbling rills, cool shades, groves of orange and 
 lemon trees, and a pure atmosphere awaiting us, behind the 
 bold and broken line of mountain on whose lofty summits the 
 Penha convent and the Moorish castle present themselves to 
 the view. To the north of that elevated range, which is so 
 singularly broken into a succession of isolated points, and 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 123 
 
 upon its declivity, looking down over a valley to Colares and 
 the Atlantic, — which, for the golden fruit of its numerous and 
 beautiful gardens, distributed with the utmost taste upon the 
 gentle slopes of the hills, might stand in comparison with the 
 fabled regions of the Hesperides, — are situated the quintas of 
 Cintra, " bosomed high in tufted trees." 
 
 We are just arrived, and have found clean and comfortable 
 accommodations at Costa's hotel, which we think fortunate ; 
 for crowds of young officers are coming in every moment from 
 the experimental squadron to see the glories of the place, 
 having put into requisition all the means of conveyance from 
 Lisbon, — S^ges, Burros, Machos, and lean-looking hacks, with 
 all the vivacity, importance, and bustle characteristic of Bri- 
 tish seamen. The colony appears at this moment to be per- 
 fectly English ; and what with the mercantile, the military, 
 and the naval influx of our fellow-countrj'^men, we can with 
 difiiculty persuade ourselves that we are at last actually in the 
 interior of Portugal. 
 
 Our bolieiro, or driver, was a drdle de corps ; — his head was 
 crowned with a sugarloaf-shaped hat; — he was encased in a 
 flowered waistcoat, an embroidered nankeen jacket, and 
 sported an unusual longitude of tail. His physiognomy pos- 
 sessed an apish wickedness in it, — a look of roguery and arch- 
 ness, that strongly recommended him to the value of our high 
 consideration. He had an impudent remark to make upon 
 every passenger whom we met on the road ; and never was 
 raillery so good-humouredly received. When there was no 
 one else upon whom to vent the eff'usions of his sarcastic ge- 
 nius, he would turn round upon his mule, and animadvert in 
 cutting terms upon the coats of cachmere with which his mas- 
 ters had provided themselves, and rub his hands with bursting 
 satisfaction at having wounded them, as he imagined, in a 
 tender point. We kept both the leathern curtains of the S6ge 
 
124 PORTUGAL 
 
 undrawn, in order to view the country, and listen to the enter- 
 taining drollery of this prince of bolieiros. The fellow, it ap- 
 peared afterwards, possessed feeling as well as humour. We 
 employed his services constantly in Lisbon ; and upon our re- 
 turn safe from the provinces, when we chanced to meet him in 
 his stable attire, he favoured us, in the warmth of his gratitude, 
 with a regular Portuguese embrace ; and no doubt, had we 
 been Emperors, he would have forgotten at the moment all 
 difference of rank, and certainly, what was not very accept- 
 able, the lasting impression which his own personal inconve- 
 niences were calculated to leave upon our dress. 
 
 Our road from Buenos Ayres passed to the right of the 
 Estrella church and convent, and then across the open square 
 to the steep street which leads up to the Protestant burial- 
 ground, and to the barracks occupied by a battalion of the Bri- 
 tish guards, and thence , between high walls down into the 
 valley of Alcantara, where that stupendous monument of archi- 
 tectural boldness, the aqueduct, commenced early in the last 
 century, by Manoel da Maga, under the command of John V., 
 is beheld majestically striding from range to range of hill. 
 
 What was said by Rousseau on first viewing the magni- 
 ficent Pont du Gard near Nimes, may with equal truth be 
 applied to express the astonishment impressed on the mind 
 by coming suddenly upon the Aqueduct of Alcantara ; which, 
 however previously prepared by reiterated reports of the 
 grandeur and boldness of its elevation, we found actually ex- 
 ceeding all representation, and indeed worthy of the times of 
 the Romans. 
 
 In the Portuguese language it is called the Arcos das Agoas 
 Livres. Its principal source, for there are several tributary 
 streams, which are subsequently united in supplying the 
 aqueduct with water, is situated in the hamlet of Canessas, at 
 a distance of about two leagues from Lisbon. It crosses the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 125 
 
 valley of Alcantara on thirty-five arches ; fourteen of which, 
 including the grand centre arch, are pointed, the remainder 
 having a circular form. The span of the principal arch, from 
 base to base, is about one hundred feet, and its height to the 
 parapet wall two hundred and fourteen. The breadth of the 
 course, running over the arches, is rather more than twenty- 
 four feet. This passage is vaulted, and continues the whole 
 internal line of the aqueduct to afford free space for those 
 persons to move along, whose business it is to see that the 
 channels used for the conveyance of the water are kept clean 
 and in order, and that the masonry work is maintained in good 
 repair. 
 
 The small open towers placed at different intervals, are not 
 commonly attached to aqueducts, and certainly do not add to 
 the general effect of this ; but still they are very serviceable in 
 supplying the interior of the work with a constant current of 
 fresh air. 
 
 There is a semicircular channel, of thirteen inches in diameter, 
 on either side of the covered gallery, or vaulted passage, through 
 which the current of water is made to flow in alternate suc- 
 cession, as may be found necessary by the men in attendance. 
 Above these there is a foot- way, which, besides being a very 
 agreeable walk, considerably abridges the distance from Lisbon 
 to the pretty village of Bemfica for those who may be proceed- 
 ing thither on foot. It is the subject of universal complaint, 
 that neither the quantity nor the quality of the water, supplied 
 by the aqueduct to the different fountains of Lisbon, are by any 
 means in an increasing or improving condition. The amount is 
 now still further diminished by the unusual heat of the sum- 
 mer ; and in some of the lower parts of the city, which border 
 upontheTagus, the chief supplies of water for domestic purposes 
 are procured from the water-boats of Almada, situated on the 
 opposite shore. An accurate account is annually taken of the 
 
126 PORTUGAL 
 
 decrease of the waters, which flow from various sources into 
 the aqueduct ; and really it must be very alarming for the in- 
 habitants of Lisbon to observe how regularly, from year to 
 year, as is stated, the quantity has continued to decline, while 
 there is reason to apprehend from appearances a still further 
 annual diminution in the supply of that indispensable blessing. 
 
 The village of Berafica is situated at the extremity of the 
 liberties of Lisbon, and abounds with pretty quintas, belonging 
 to the nobility and rich merchants of Lisbon ; the most orna- 
 mental of which are those of the Marquess of Fronteira, in the 
 Italian style, and of Mr. Devisme, an English merchant, whose 
 national taste has been displayed in the peculiar architecture 
 of his house, and in the arrangement of his gardens. 
 
 The Dominican convent situated here has two remarkable 
 monuments to boast of; the one is the mausoleum of Joao das 
 Regras, whose influence in the Cortes at Coimbra procured the 
 Bastard John to be proclaimed sovereign of Portugal ; and the 
 other, the cenotaph of the celebrated Joao de Castro, the brave 
 and virtuous viceroy of India. 
 
 After we had quitted the suburbs of Lisbon, the character 
 of the interior of the country became more strikingly apparent, 
 and it cannot certainly be praised for its beauties. It is hilly, 
 unenclosed, and totally destitute of trees ; and the black colour 
 of the limestone and basalt, of which the soil round the city 
 principally consists, gives a sombre character to the scenery. 
 Here and there were a few scattered and miserable looking 
 olive-trees ; and in the hedge-rows, where an attempt was made, 
 in a few instances, to raise such a defence round the fields, 
 numerous American aloes in blossom, of which we counted 
 nearly thirty within a very small distance from each other, 
 were the only objects to engage the attention, excepting, how- 
 ever, always the infinite number of small windmills, placed 
 close upon the road, and distinguished from any which we had 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 127 
 
 ever seen before, by the form of their sails resembling the 
 shape of a Maltese cross. The crops had been taken off the 
 ground, which was thus deprived of all appearance of herb- 
 age, and nothing could be more dull than the prospect around 
 us. In the meanwhile, we found the state of the roads so 
 execrable, that our joints were nearly dislocated by the time 
 we turned the corner of the mountain to descend the narrow 
 winding road into Cintra. Our carriage cost us the almost in- 
 calculable sum of three thousand four hundred reis for the 
 day, including the services of our witty bolieiro, who made no 
 objection, at the wretched Casa, situated half-way between 
 Lisbon and Cintra, to take his share of the wine, in which 
 large pieces of coarse bread were soaked, as a bait for his 
 Machos. 
 
 Strong reports prevailed at Lisbon upon the evening pre- 
 vious to our departure for Cintra, of depredations having been 
 very recently committed on passengers by a banditti consist- 
 ing of twelve men ; but either the report was untrue, or the 
 numbers of our naval officers on the road had scared them away ; 
 for we were fortunate enough not to fall into their hands. 
 About two-thirds of the way from Lisbon we came to a foun- 
 tain, standing in a very lonely situation, where travellers re- 
 fresh their mules. This was the spot where danger was to be 
 apprehended. There is a high wall to the north of the foun- 
 tain, behind which some malcreados had been lately wont to 
 take their stations, and out of mere malice throw large stones 
 upon our military officers, who might chance to pull up there ; 
 but one of the cowardly assailants having at last provoked the 
 discharge of a pistol, by which he was wounded, the dangerous 
 sport was thenceforth discontinued. 
 
 A few days after we had visited Cintra, and the route had 
 become less frequented, the lady of an English officer, who 
 had preceded her husband on the road towards Lisbon only 
 
128 PORTUGAL 
 
 half an hour, was stopped near this solitary fountain, and her 
 S^ge would most undoubtedly have been plundered, had it not 
 been for the accidental arrival of a priest at the critical mo- 
 ment, who succeeded in dissuading the robbers from persever- 
 ing in their attempt. 
 
 The view of the rugged mountains before us became conti- 
 nually more grand and surprising as we approached them, 
 displaying an almost endless series of breaks, elevated pro- 
 jections, insulated points, and deeply retiring cavities. The 
 road soon passed under a high arch, thrown across it in order 
 to connect the gardens of the palace of Ramalhao with the 
 opposite pleasure-grounds. We obtained admission to the 
 gardens, through which a constant current of water is kept 
 flowing, supplied through covered channels from the neigh- 
 bouring heights. The palace, a little time since the place of 
 imprisonment ordained by the constitutional government for 
 the refractory queen mother, is now in a state of perfect deso- 
 lation ; and such is the exposed aspect of the garden, that even 
 the pomegranates and the blossoming myrtles, nay, even the 
 small leafed orange-trees and other shrubs, require to be con- 
 stantly watered twice in the day; and in the lower part of the 
 ground, under the shade of some tall Lombardy poplars, a few 
 vegetables appear to be reared with difficulty. 
 
 Passing through long strings of mules, laden with the va- 
 rious fruits and vegetables of the Colares gardens and orchards, 
 and troops of attendant peasants, we at length began to wind 
 round the rock, on which a little chapel is situated to the left 
 above the road, when Cintra was at once disclosed to our long- 
 ing expectations, with its forest scenery of oak and cork-trees ; 
 its royal palace, numerous quintas shining amid the orange 
 and lemon groves, which adorn the declivity of the Moorish 
 hill, — and a lovely valley to the right, where nature is beheld 
 in her richest and greenest garb, extending down to the sea. 
 

ILLUSTRATED. 129 
 
 whose golden waves reflected at the moment the rays of the 
 setting sun ; and sun-sets can in no part of the world be more 
 beautiful and glorious than in Portugal. When Lisbon is 
 entirely burnt up, and fainting under oppressive heat, the 
 inhabitants of this favoured spot are enjoying their mountain 
 rills and delightfully refreshing verdure, and an atmosphere 
 more than ten degrees cooler, from its northern aspect, than at 
 the capital. 
 
 Our first object of curious inquiry and examination was the 
 palace, built by Dom Emmanuel, (the fortunate,) whose co- 
 nically-shaped kitchen chimnies, resembling at a distance the 
 glass-houses seen at Bristol, form no very pleasing addition to 
 the first view of the buildimgs of Cintra — 
 
 On sloping mounds, or in the vale beneath 
 Are domes where whilome kings did make repair ; 
 But now the wild-flowers round them only breathe, 
 Yet ruined splendour still is lingering there. 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 In fact, nothing can give so perfect an idea of desolation as 
 the deserted gloomy halls of this once proud mansion, and its 
 neglected gardens. The palace is a large rambling building, 
 unskilfully distributed into long passages and small closets, 
 and in several parts bears the character of Moorish architec- 
 ture, and particularly in the point and ornamental work of the 
 windows. From the upper apartments the view over the 
 town upon the south side, which commands the rugged moun- 
 tain from its base to the upmost point, where the Moorish 
 castle is seen challenging the clouds as they pass along the 
 heavens, and in the distance the Penha convent, is truly sub- 
 lime. From the windows of the apartment which formerly 
 served as a dancing saloon, we enjoyed a delightful prospect 
 down the valley to the shores of the Atlantic, in the direction 
 of south-west, through groves and orchards, over which the 
 gentle gales came up charged with the perfumes of lemon and 
 Port. I 
 
130 PORTUGAL 
 
 orange-trees, luxuriantly blossoming or bearing fruit. The 
 east-south-east front of the palace bears entirely the Moorish 
 character, and in front there is a fountain iipon a terrace sur- 
 rounded by balustrades. In the dancing saloon numerous 
 magpies are represented with a label in their beaks, bearing 
 the inscription of " Por Bem," in allusion to some tale of 
 jealousy recorded in the royal annals. The chapel and royal 
 gallery are upon the second floor, and there is a fountain in the 
 vestibule upon the right hand leading into the principal guard- 
 room, the roof of which is divided into octagonal compart- 
 ments, ornamented with paintings of swans having crowns 
 round their necks. 
 
 It was impossible to remark, without mixed sentiments of 
 pity and indignation, the traces of the footsteps of the unfor- 
 tunate Alphonso VI., impressed upon the Mosaic work, which 
 forms the floor of the small square room, where during nine 
 years the royal captive endured a wretched existence, and ul- 
 timately died the victim of his brother's ambition, and of the 
 intrigues of his wife. That he was a sovereign justly despised 
 for his vices, there can be no doubt ; but the recollection of the 
 cruelties inflicted upon him by his unprincipled jailers, added 
 to their own profligacy of conduct in marrying, under an in- 
 famous sanction obtained by money from the pope, and this too 
 during his life, created rather the disposition to sympathise in 
 his sufferings, than to dwell upon his imputed crimes. The 
 large iron ring to which his chains were fastened, still remains 
 fixed in the wall, as the heavy bolts likewise which secured 
 the small grated window, overlooking a narrow court, where 
 guards were constantly stationed to prevent his escape. 
 
 In the square room, which is called the Salla das Armas, 
 we found shields, arranged under the upper mouldings by 
 order of Emmanuel, bearing the arms of all the Portuguese 
 nobility, with their names inscribed respectively on each, 
 which are pendent from the necks of stags, between whose 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 13,1 
 
 gilt horns the crests of the noble families are displayed. One 
 of the shields had been removed, and the name of the traitor- 
 ous nobleman whose armorial bearings had been emblazoned 
 upon it was erased. We understood it to have been that of 
 the conspirator against the life of Joseph I., the duke of Aveiro. 
 This apartment opens to the east over a garden, prettily laid 
 out upon a terrace beneath. In the room of the fountain, on 
 a plug being drawn by an invisible hand, water rushes down 
 the tile-covered walls from innumerable small apertures, that 
 are impercejptible ; and in the open court, in the front of this 
 apartment, there is a column with a grotesque capital, which, 
 upon some secret spring being touched, emits a large volume of 
 water, of sufficient breadth to reach the walls of the court, as 
 it descends on either side. There is a refreshing coolness pro- 
 duced by these fountains and water-spouts, which communi- 
 cates a delightful sensation during the heat of the day. This 
 oriental custom was probably introduced with other luxuries 
 by the Moors. 
 
 The chair, composed of painted tiles, on which the unfortu- 
 nate King Sebastian sate in council, with his nobles, immedi- 
 ately before his departure upon the fatal expedition into Africa, 
 whence may be dated all the subsequent misfortunes of Por- 
 tugal, is still exhibited as an object of curious attention. 
 
 The royal kitchen, with its long series of stoves, and two 
 large open chimnies, and numerous culinary conveniences, 
 seemed to speak of high days of festivity, gone by perhaps 
 never to return. After all, too, the palace is a melancholy pile 
 of building ; the floors of the different rooms are laid over with 
 brickwork, which, however cool it may be in effect, yet has 
 not a very regal appearance, and the apartments are totally 
 destitute of furniture. 
 
 We were not unwilling' therefore to exchange this gloomy 
 palace for the light and elegant quinta of Sitiaes, belonging to 
 the Marquess Marialva, — surrounded by beautiful gardens laid 
 
132 PORTUGAL 
 
 out in the English style, and commanding, from its elevated 
 position, an almost boundless view of mountain ranges along 
 the coast, and beyond Mafra: — ■ 
 
 Behold the hall where chiefs were late convened, 
 Where policy regained what arms had lost ; 
 Woe to the conquering, not the conquered host. 
 Since baffled triumph droops on Lusitania's coast. 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 Such was Lord Byron's effusion after his visit to this quinta: 
 but according to the statement of Colonel Napier, the poet 
 participates in a common error, by making Cintra the place 
 where this memorable convention was signed. The Colonel 
 observes, that " the Cintra convention was commenced, con- 
 ducted, and concluded, at the distance of thirty miles from 
 Cintra." 
 
 The open grounds in front of this palace are the favourite 
 evening resort of the wealthy Portuguese and English mer- 
 chants, who, during the summer, generally pass two days of 
 the week at Cintra in the enjoyment of its cool and refreshing 
 atmosphere. On the height above, from whose base Sitiaes is 
 divided by the winding road that leads to Cascaes and Colares, 
 there is another quinta of older date, but equally picturesque 
 in character, and commanding a still more extensive view of 
 ocean, mountain, plain, and forest. It is known as the Penha 
 verde, or green rock quinta, and was erected by the celebrated 
 Joao de Castro, viceroy of India. His descendants inherit it 
 upon the simple condition of keeping up the house and grounds 
 for ever in the state in which he bequeathed it to them. The 
 rock is clothed with gigantic oaks and cork-trees, inter- 
 mingling with other forest trees, from its base to the summit ; 
 and numerous mountain brooks are heard forcing their noisy 
 way down the shaded acclivity, which are collected into a 
 pretty fountain on the road side beneath. But Lord Byron 
 has happily anticipated every impotent attempt to do justice 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 133 
 
 to the wild beauties of this majestic scenery ; and as the object 
 of our correspondence is to "illustrate" Portugal, the de- 
 scriptions of the poet will be found of no less service to the 
 design than the efforts of the painter and engraver : — 
 
 The horrid crags, by toppling convent crowned, 
 The cork-trees hoar, that clothe the shaggy steep. 
 The mountain-moss by scorching skies imbrowned, 
 The sunken glen, whose sunless shrubs must weep, 
 The tender azure of the unruffled deep, 
 The orange tints, that gild the greenest bough, 
 The torrents that from cliff to valley leap. 
 The vine on high, the willow-branch below, 
 Mix'd in one mighty scene, with varied beauty glow. 
 
 Our next visit was to the modern Gothic quinta called 
 Montserrat, now in a state of complete dilapidation, of which, 
 however, sufficient remains to give evidence of its former splen- 
 dour. We proceeded thither on Burros, whose movements 
 were constantly quickened by the shouts and blows of a rabble 
 of boys in red nightcaps, blue shirts, and red sashes worn 
 round their waists. A merry party of Portuguese, mounted 
 on Machos, among whom was a fat Dominican monk contest- 
 ing with a lady for a first arrival at the town, had nearly run 
 down our little unpretending squadron on the road. This 
 once beautiful building is situated midway between Cintra and 
 Colares, upon the extremity of a little knoll shaded by forest 
 trees, and commanding a most lovely prospect over the gar- 
 dens, vineyards, and orchards, scattered along the valley of 
 Colares, and extending to the sea-side. It is said to have 
 been built by Mr. Devisme, and to have been sold by him to 
 Mr. Beckford, who furnished it in the most sumptuous manner; 
 but the marble halls are silent now, and the voice of music has 
 long ceased to cheer the desolate ruin. Lord Byron's de- 
 scription of its present condition is truly apposite and highly 
 poetical : — 
 
134 PORTUGAL 
 
 There thou too, Vathek ! England's wealthiest son. 
 Once formed thy Paradise, as not aware 
 When wanton wealth her mightiest deeds hath done, 
 Meek peace voluptuous lures was ever wont to shun. 
 
 Here didst thou dwell, here schemes of pleasure plan. 
 Beneath yon mountain's ever beauteous brow : 
 But now, as if a thing unblest by man, 
 Thy fairy dwelling is as lone as thou ! 
 Here giant weeds a passage scarce allow 
 To halls deserted, portals gaping wide : 
 Fresh lessons to the thinking bosom, how 
 Vain are the pleasaunces on earth supplied. 
 Swept into wrecks by time's ungentle tide. Byron. 
 
 Colares is situated about three miles distance from Cintra, 
 and not far from the coast. It is celebrated for the abundance 
 and excellent quality of its fruits, particularly its lemons ; as 
 likewise for its vineyards, which sweep down to thrf very edge 
 of the sandy beach, and produce a species of wine, which in 
 taste and strength has a close affinity to light Burgundy, which 
 it resembles also in another respect — in being too delicate to 
 bear a length of voyage. 
 
 The road to Cascaes and to the lighthouse of Guia, situated 
 upon the summit of the Cabo da Roca, leaves the quinta of 
 Montserrat to the right, and winds along the inequalities of 
 a widely extended heath, which may be said to clothe the 
 Serra de Cintra, and then branches off on the right hand to 
 the Convent of the Santa Cruz de Cintra, or Convent of the 
 Holy Cross of the Cintra rock ; which perhaps is better known 
 to the generality of travellers by the appellation of the Cork 
 Convent. This building, and the Penha Convent, are thus 
 alluded to by Lord Byron : — 
 
 Then slowly climb the many-winding way. 
 And frequent turn to linger as you go ; 
 Prom loftier rocks new loveliness survey, 
 And rest ye at our " Lady's house of woe ;" 
 
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ILLUSTRATED. 135 
 
 Where frugal monks their little relics show. 
 And sundry legends to the stranger tell : 
 Here impious men have punish 'd been, and lo ! 
 Deep in yon cave Honorius long did dwell. 
 In hope to merit Heaven by making earth a Hell. 
 
 As we rode up to the rude portico of the convent, which is 
 composed simply of two rocks, forming a pointed arch by their 
 approximation, the guardian of the fraternity overtook us ; and 
 in compliance with his request, made at the moment when he 
 observed us taking notes of the building, we cannot forbear 
 adding the name of the worthy brother, which, as he took good 
 care to impress on our recollection by frequent repetition of it, 
 was Fr. Francisco da Circumcizao. The brethren, eighteen 
 in number, are of the Franciscan order, and subsist chiefly by 
 alms. On the first landing-place leading to the entrance door 
 of the convent, and to the left, there is a pretty fountain of 
 clear water, surmounted by a rudely carved image of Nossa 
 Senhora da Rocha, and placed between two large tables of 
 stone, which are surrounded by seats for the weary pilgrim to 
 repose upon. The umbrageous canopy of a wide-spreading 
 cork-tree gives to this vestibule a dim religious light, as well 
 as a most refreshing coolness ; and we lingered there in con- 
 versation for some time before the monk could induce us to 
 visit his flower-garden, his ponds containing golden fish, his 
 rills of mountain water, and the narrow paths, claimed with 
 difficulty from the masses of rock, fantastically scattered about 
 in the surrounding thicket. On either side of the vestibule 
 there is a chapel with a small confessional in it, at once a 
 source of piety and revenue. 
 
 We descended into the subterranean chapel, which is the 
 largest, from a smaller one upon the upper floor. We ob- 
 served, over the high altar, a figure of our Saviour, with a glory 
 and crown on the head, appareled in a crimson robe of silk, 
 and leaning upon a cross, which his long tresses of hair par- 
 
136 PORTUGAL 
 
 tially concealed. The Passion is represented on the side-walls 
 in Dutch tiles, and the images of St. John and St. Francis 
 appear to be regarding the holy subject with intense interest. 
 On the outside of the altar railing, and to the left hand, is the 
 tomb of St. Honorius, and contiguous to it, as the place of 
 greatest distinction, the cenotaph of D. Alvaro de Castro, the 
 founder of the convent in the year 1564, and under the pa- 
 pacy of Pius IV. After hearing our friend Francisco da Cir- 
 cumcizao chaunt the asperges me Domine, and expressing, of 
 course, our admiration of his fine deep bass voice, as well as 
 of the curious pulpit, let into the wall, of his own invention, 
 and of which he appeared extremely proud ; we inspected the 
 small narrow cells of the convent, which are nothing more than 
 cavities in the rock, lined with cork, and closed with cork 
 doors, as a defence against cold and humidity. In winter, 
 however, such is the dampness of the situation, that the very 
 rocks which are seen projecting into the cells, run down with 
 water; the blankets become saturated with moisture, and every 
 little article of furniture is soon reduced to a state of decay. 
 The severe and ascetic spirit, however, of Honorius seems to 
 have deserted the fraternity of these latter days ; for they ap- 
 pear to prefer any discipline to that of enduring the painful in- 
 conveniences of a residence, either in winter or summer, within 
 the precincts of this retreat ; and Francisco was the only monk 
 who presented himself on the occasion of our visit. After 
 sharing his loaf of coarse bread, served up to us in huge slices 
 upon trenchers of cork, — having tasted his Colares, and listened 
 to his long recital of the inimitable excellences of Honorius, we 
 looked into the den wherein the devotee had entitled himself 
 to a high rank on the calendar of saints by thirty-five years of 
 debasing penance, and in which there is scarcely sufficient 
 room for the reception of a human body. But whilst inclined 
 to ridicule the severities which he had there practised, "in 
 hope to merit Heaven by making earth a Hell," the lines of 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 137 
 
 Mr. Southey occurred at the moment to our recollection, and 
 inspired a corresponding soberness of thought, as well as hu- 
 mility of sentiment : — 
 
 Yet ! mock not thou, 
 
 Stranger, the anchorite's mistaken zeal ! 
 
 He painfully his painful duties kept. 
 
 Sincere though erring. Stranger, dost thou keep 
 
 Thy better, easier law but half as well ? 
 
 After visiting the rustic chapel, where the sainted martyr of 
 self-imposed austerities was wont to perform the offices of 
 prayer twice in each day, and enjoying the beautiful prospect 
 thence into the fertile valley of Colares, we bade our monastic 
 host adieu, and crossed the ridge of the Serra, leaving Cas- 
 caes and the lighthouse on the Cabo da Roca to the right. 
 
 From this elevated part of the range the view is surprisingly 
 grand, including a considerable tract of country on either side 
 of the Tagus, and a wide extent of ocean to the north beyond 
 Ericeira, nearly to the Rio Mongola ; and to the south, the 
 mouth of the Tagus, and the line of coast extending up the 
 river to Belem Castle, and the whole of the bay included 
 between the headlands of TrafFraria and Espichel, with the 
 river of Coina threading a fine district; — Cezimbra, and the 
 Arrabida convent. The sublimity and extent of this scenery 
 is quite unrivalled in our travelled recollections. 
 
 On the highest point to which we were now approaching, 
 across the heath-covered Serra, is situated the Convent of the 
 Penha, or, of our Lady of the Height, according to the true 
 import of the Celtic word pen. Passing to the southern side 
 of the mountain, we ascended by a winding and tediously 
 steep road to the platform upon which the convent is built, 
 leaving to our left, lower down the hill, an inclosed area, as 
 we were informed, for the exhibition of bull-fights, which we 
 rather wished than believed to be a misrepresentation. There 
 is nothing remarkable in the convent beyond some alabaster 
 
138 PORTUGAL 
 
 ornaments in the chapel, and some small cloisters, the sides of 
 which are covered with tiles, on which are rudely represented 
 various subjects taken from sacred history. The refectory, a 
 low dark room, is sufficiently gloomy for all monastic pur- 
 poses ; but as for a library, these indolent monks never seem 
 to have sought for consolation in books, and accordingly beyond 
 those required for the services of the chapel, not one stray 
 volume was to be, seen in the whole building. There was not 
 one brother in the building to greet our arrival, and we learned 
 from the Galician domestic who conducted us over the apart- 
 ments, that the society was about to be dissolved, and that he 
 had the distressing prospect before him of returning, after five 
 years service, under the rule of fasting and penance, to starve 
 amidst his native mountains. 
 
 The best idea of the rudely-shaped masses of rock which 
 are scattered over the Serra, and the volcanic appearance of 
 the upper part of the wild range of the Cintra heights, is to 
 be obtained from a wall on the western side of the convent, 
 whence the view runs along the wooded side of the whole 
 mountain course, skirting Cintra and Colares, down to the 
 shores of the Atlantic. The mountains of Cintra are said to 
 have been known to the ancients as the Montes Lunse ; and 
 the Cabo da Roca as the Promontorium Magnum, upon which 
 was erected a temple dedicated to Cynthia, whence some 
 etymologists fancifully trace the origin of the appellation 
 Cintra. 
 
 " I know not how," says Mr. Southey, " to describe to 
 you the strange beauties of Cintra ; it is perhaps more beauti- 
 ful than sublime, more grotesque than beautiful ; yet I never 
 beheld scenery more calculated to fill the beholder with admi- 
 ration and delight. This immense rock, or mountain, is in 
 part covered with scanty herbage ; in parts it rises into conical 
 hills, formed of such immense stones, and piled so strangely, 
 that all the machinery of deluges and volcanoes must fail to 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 139 
 
 satisfy the inquiry for their origin. But the abundance of wood 
 forms the most striking feature in this retreat from the Portu- 
 guese summer. The houses of the English are seen scattered on 
 the ascent, half hid among cork trees, elms, oaks, hazels, wal- 
 nuts, the tall canes, and the rich green of the lemon gardens." 
 
 Descending from the Penha convent, we crossed the small 
 valley by which the two lofty eminences of the Serra are di- 
 vided, and dismissing our Burros, scaled by a rugged and diffi- 
 cult path, not to say dangerous, the almost perpendicular sides 
 of the elevated peak which is crowned by the ruins of the 
 Moorish castle, and which immediately overlooks " the glorious 
 Eden, of Cintra," and commands boundless views on every 
 point of the compass, and an immense horizon over the Atlantic 
 ocean. The remains of the Castello dos Mouros are now in- 
 considerable, and the little chapel, or perhaps mosque, on the 
 eastern side of the hill, and lower down, retains scarcely any 
 traces of its original destination ; nor could we find at the bottom 
 of the mountain the remains of the ancient Roman temple 
 alluded to by Mr. Bradford, nor the inscriptions supposed to 
 have reference to the worship of Cynthia in these parts, and 
 to have given birth to the term Cintra. They may, however, 
 have escaped our notice. The vaulted arch over the grand 
 reservoir of water has partially fallen in, but still the water is 
 as cool and as transparent as when the turbaned chieftain 
 drew from it to slake his thirst. 
 
 It would be difficult for the utmost effort of the imagination 
 to form an idea, from the ruins, of what were the habitations 
 and domestic manners of the Arabian garrison, who here, amid 
 fastnesses, crags, and fearful precipices, " beloved by Cynthia," 
 guarded the crescent standard of their prophet. 
 
 The climate of Cintra is decidedly damp, owing to its 
 western aspect and its proximity to the sea ; and indeed such, 
 as we are informed by the inhabitants, is the humidity of the 
 
140 PORTUGAL 
 
 atmosphere early in the autumn, that families are generally 
 compelled to return to their residences in Lisbon, in order to 
 avoid colds, fevers, and rheumatism, before the end of Sep- 
 tember. 
 
 The houses of the town are scattered prettily about the 
 breast of the hill, and their gardens abound with all those 
 flowers, shrubs, and trees, whose nature is congenial with 
 warmth of climate. But the principal street, if it deserve the 
 appellation, is allowed to remain encumbered with filth, which, 
 were the temperature of the atmosphere as high here as at 
 Lisbon, would render Cintra equally insupportable in the 
 summer. The shops are sufficiently numerous and good, and 
 the manufacture of open-worked stockings and cheesecakes 
 affords employment to a considerable portion of the inhabit- 
 ants. The open grated windows of the prison, as in other 
 Portuguese towns, even upon the ground-floor, allow free com- 
 munication between the prisoners and their friends, and every 
 passing stranger. This custom can scarcely be justified upon 
 the ground of the necessity of having a free circulation of air, 
 which might still be effected with better management, and the 
 purposes of a place of confinement be more fully answered. 
 The view down the valley from the space in front of the church, 
 is singularly beautiful, comprising all the quintas and gardens 
 in the lower part of the town. 
 
 In returning to Lisbon, travellers, and particularly English- 
 men, make a little dttour, in order to visit Cascaes and Oeiras 
 on the coast, and the little town of Carcavellos, in the vine- 
 yards of whose neighbouring quintas, looking down the gentle 
 slopes of well cultivated hills which terminate upon the sea- 
 shore, is produced the Lisbon, and the wine so well known 
 under the denomination of " Carcavellos." The village of Bel- 
 las also, and the neighbouring mineral springs, and the gloomy 
 palace of Queluz, at present occupied by the queen-mother, 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 14i 
 
 and standing in a narrow valley, enclosed by dark-looking 
 hills, a fit place for religious retirement or state imprisonment, 
 usually attract the attention of strangers. 
 
 The collars of the Portuguese Machos, as frequently of the 
 Burros, are fancifully made of different coloured worsteds, 
 worked upon leather, and are generally ornamented with bells, 
 or charms, called Figas. The headstalls of the animals are 
 alike curiously ornamented with studs or knobs of brass ; the 
 saddles are softly quilted; and the stirrup, the same which 
 doubtless has been used during several centuries, resembles 
 our old-fashioned foot-scrapers, such as you see in the accom- 
 panying representation. 
 
 PEASANT AND MACHO RESTING. 
 
 
142 PORTUGAL 
 
 LETTER VI. 
 
 " When a nation is to be reformed or improved, it must be done by the 
 natives themselves, foreigners only serving as models, till they choose to 
 imitate them." — Link. 
 
 Porto, 1827. 
 
 The political disturbances which have recently taken place 
 in the southern and northern capitals of Portugal, upon the 
 retirement from office of a popular minister, who had distin- 
 guished himself in the province of Algarve against the traitors to 
 the constitution, have afforded us, as we suppose, an insight into 
 the character of the Portuguese people, and made us better 
 acquainted than perhaps we should otherwise have been, with 
 the state of the public mind upon the question of the consti- 
 tutional charter. Without at all pretending to dispute the 
 wisdom of those counsels which have induced the Infanta 
 Regent to dispense with the services of a braver soldier, whose 
 actions in the field have proved his attachment to the cause of 
 liberal institutions ; nor asserting, by any means, that his con- 
 duct in the ministry and views of government have been alto- 
 gether such as to secure for him the confidence and unquali- 
 fied approbation of the moderate party, and place him beyond 
 the reach of the intrigues of the Camarilla ; still it must 
 not be dissembled that the event has created a great sen- 
 sation, awakening the apprehensions, or exciting the hopes 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 143 
 
 of either party, as it has suited their political prejudices to 
 put their own construction upon the measure, and draw con- 
 clusions from it most favourable to their private feelings and 
 interests. 
 
 Much importance is not to be attached of course to the 
 fervid zeal displayed by the multitude on this occasion, nor to 
 the harangues of the demagogues, and the extemporaneous 
 effusions of the factious poets in the theatres; for it is justly 
 argued that the people may be misled, and that the noisy 
 orators may be bribed to foment tumults and public disorders, 
 and so the more effectually injure the cause of the constitution 
 under a treacherous appearance of promoting it. 
 
 Grave and experienced people, the sincere friends of liberal 
 and enlightened institutions, bitterly lament the popular ex- 
 cesses which have taken place, and infer no ultimate good 
 whatever to the interests of the country, from these vehement 
 exhibitions of patriotism in a case whose merits are not at 
 present generally understood. In order to prevent any hostile! 
 collision between the two parties, which might be likely to 
 occur, measures of coercion have been adopted, which, it is 
 hoped, may have the effect of tranquillizing the popular ex- 
 citement, and leave the government to pursue its own course 
 for the public welfare, without the recurrence of similar impe- 
 diments. 
 
 It does not appear that the constitutional charter has been 
 in one individual instance, as yet, violated by the ministry, upon 
 whom the difficult task has devolved of managing and controlling 
 these ebullitions of the multitude ; and indeed, had such an 
 instance occurred, a legal remedy would have been found for 
 it upon inquiry, according to provision made by the constitu- 
 tion, at the opening of the sessions of the two Chambers. In 
 justice to the ex-minister, it must be said that he has avoided 
 all appearance of being a party to the recent disturbances, or 
 of contributing to their- continuance, by withdrawing himself 
 
144 PORTUGAL 
 
 altogether from the public view, and abstaining from all in- 
 terference in the domestic politics of the moment. The deli- 
 cate conduct too, pursued by the ambassador and commander 
 of the British forces under these peculiarly difficult circum- 
 stances, has been, as it might be supposed, in perfect har- 
 mony with the nature of their instructions from England ; and 
 the most strict forbearance from all participation in the views 
 and feelings of either party has been observed by those autho- 
 rities on the occasion. The disinterested character, therefore, 
 of the assistance afforded to Portugal against Spanish aggres- 
 sion by the government of England, upon the faith of existing 
 treaties, has now been clearly proved to the powers of Europe, 
 who may have regarded with an eye of jealousy and distrust 
 the disembarkation of our troops upon the shores of the Tagus. 
 The force employed to preserve the peace of the metropolis 
 has been entirely native, and our troops have remained quiet 
 spectators of the passing events at their several cantonments 
 in the neighbourhood of Lisbon. 
 
 The Intendant of the police, and the government of the In- 
 fanta Regent, throughout, have been free to exercise their full 
 authority, independent of any interposition of British per- 
 suasion or influence in the question raised between Corcunda 
 and Constitutionalist. In every point of view the wisdom of 
 the British counsels has been fully seconded by the judicious 
 procedure of their representatives here, and in no one instance 
 has their prescribed line of duty been transgressed. When 
 the limited purpose, for which the British army made its ap- 
 pearance in Portugal, has been completely answered, and all 
 apprehension of hostile intentions upon the part of Spain has 
 entirely ceased, our troops of course will be withdrawn. It 
 has formed no part of British policy, as far as public state- 
 ments and public conduct may be taken in evidence to the 
 truth of the assertion, to impose a constitutional charter upon 
 the acceptance of the Portuguese nation ; nor has England 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 145 
 
 interfered in the slightest degree with the consideration, whe- 
 ther Portugal is yet sufficiently enlightened to understand the 
 advantages of free political institutions. The charter has been 
 spontaneously conferred upon the Portuguese people by their 
 legitimate sovereign, and it remains for modern Lusitania to 
 prove to the world, by its acceptance or rejection, whether 
 she is capable of political freedom or not. However great the 
 enthusiasm of the English nation at large may be in favour of 
 an enlightened system of government, and the concession of 
 liberal institutions to a people, it is quite clear that the prin- 
 ciple conveyed in the motto at the commencement of this 
 letter, has not been overlooked by the ntinistry of England in 
 the extent and design of the succours which it has afforded 
 to Portugal against the attempts of an unprincipled enemy, 
 namely, that " when a nation is to be reformed or improved, 
 it must be done by the natives themselves, foreigners only 
 serving as models till they choose to imitate them." 
 
 Every observation which our limited means have enabled us 
 to make, would induce us to conclude that the Portuguese 
 will be slow in remodelling the system of their internal go- 
 vernment, after the best examples of polity afforded them by 
 the European Powers. The free play of the works of the new 
 machine is to a certain degree impeded by the prejudices and 
 private interests of the privileged classes, an ignorant, immoral 
 nobility, and an unprincipled priesthood ; and it will be 
 necessary for each to surrender a portion of its encroachments 
 upon the rights of the people, before the nation can fully expe- 
 rience all the benefits intended by the concession of the Con- 
 stitutional Charter. The system of reform must be effectual in 
 its operation among those who surround the throne, among the 
 members of the upper Chamber, the monastic orders, and the 
 ministers of religion in general, before the nation can hope to 
 derive any great advantage from the labours of the deputies in 
 attempting improvements in the condition of^the statei 
 Port. K 
 
146 PORTUGAL 
 
 If the new laws emanate from uncorrupt sources, and the 
 interests of all parties are made wholly subordinate to the 
 public good, there is no reason why we may not indulge in 
 the no distant prospect of the entire renovation of a people 
 whose ancestors, however degraded their descendants may be 
 in the estimation of other powers, in the four first periods 
 of the monarchy waged successful wars against the Moors, 
 and finally expelled them from the territory of Lusitania, 
 whilst yet they remained masters of their possessions in 
 Spain. 
 
 The discovery of a maritime route to India, and the conse- 
 quent change brought about in the character of European 
 commerce, and, at a more recent date, the banishment of the 
 Jesuits from the soil of Portugal, are evidences of what a 
 brave and noble people can effect, when under the direction of 
 an enlightened government. It is impossible that the spirit 
 of a people who were once distinguished by their glorious 
 conquests in the eastern and western worlds, and whose daring 
 activity, prowess, and honour, once placed them at the head 
 of nations, can have been destroyed altogether even by a long 
 series of misrule and misfortune, — " quippe solo natura sub- 
 est ;" and therefore with justice may we anticipate its revival 
 under a better order of things, as established by the constitu- 
 tional charter. 
 
 It has been justly remarked that, if any nation ought to be 
 proud of its nobility, it is Portugal, when we remember the 
 expulsion of the Moors, their exploits against the infidels 
 abroad, and against the Spaniards at home. The decline of • 
 the country is owing to the decline of the nobility, which, in 
 the present day, with some few exceptions it may be added, 
 possesses neither public spirit nor private virtues. 
 
 The commencement of those misfortunes which have befal- 
 len the Portuguese nation, may be referred to so early a date 
 as the reign of Sebastian, who sacrificed the agriculture, the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 147 
 
 commerce, and the manufactures of Portugal, to an insane 
 predilection for combats in Africa. To these he was greatly 
 encouraged by the reigning pontiff, Pius IV., who understood 
 his trade too well to omit any opportunity of aggrandizing the 
 power and influence of the papal chair, through the means of 
 the Jesuits and the creatures of their instruction ; and by 
 whom the massacre of human beings for the declared honour 
 of God, was frequently made the subject of festive rejoicings. 
 The titles of " most obedient," and " most submissive," 
 adopted by Sebastian in his communications with the court of 
 Rome, are a sufficient evidence of the slavery of mind to 
 which the brutalizing domination of the monks, and the pre- 
 cepts of the ambitious Jesuits, his masters, had reduced him. 
 Nor were the national interests better attended to during the 
 short reign of his successor, the Cardinal Henry. It is re- 
 corded that, during the Spanish usurpation, into such a state 
 of degeneracy had the higher classes of Portuguese fallen, 
 that they abandoned their native language to compliment the 
 foreign tyrant in his own, and were publicly reproved by him 
 for their baseness. The Spaniards nearly completed the na- 
 tional ruin, commenced during the two reigns preceding the 
 conquest of Portugal by the general of Philip II. 
 
 The revolution of 1640, when the House of Braganza was 
 advanced to the throne, on the expulsion of Philip IV. of 
 Castile, occurred, indeed, at too late a period to produce any 
 great amelioration in the circumstances of the country ; for 
 the amount of evil already effected was to an extent nearly 
 irremediable. Already had their finest conquests passed, 
 with the sceptre of commerce and navigation, into the posses- 
 sion of other powers ; whilst, at home, institutions purposely 
 formed for repressing all free communication of ideas, and the 
 public instruction confided to a class of persons whose interest 
 it was to close the avenues of intellectual light, and involve 
 the nation in the depths of moral and religious darkness, with 
 
148 PORTUGAL 
 
 the abolition of the representative system, united to render 
 the character of the Portuguese more abject and more de- 
 pendent. 
 
 It was with difficulty that John IV. maintained himself, 
 with the impoverished resources of the state, against the re- 
 newed attempts of the Spaniards upon the independence of the 
 kingdom ; and if, during his reign, the other interests of the 
 country were obliged to bend to the necessity of constant and 
 vigorous resistance against invasion from the Spanish frontier, 
 much was not effected for the national benefit by his imbecile 
 and vicious successor, Alphonso VI. 
 
 The energetic ministry of the Count of Ericeira was suc- 
 ceeded by a long reign, distinguished for its inertness and 
 neglect of the best interests of Portugal. 
 
 For a time the beneficial effects of Pombal's vigorous admi- 
 nistration were experienced by the nation in the expulsion of 
 the Jesuits, (a measure of itself sufficient to have immortalized 
 his memory, had he conferred no other benefit on his country,) 
 — in the consequent revival of public industry, — in the re- 
 establishment of agriculture, manufactures, and commerce, — 
 in the flourishing condition of the arts, — and in the general 
 improvement of the national character as of the national re- 
 sources. A war, however, of seven years, during which 
 Portugal was cursed by three invasions of the French armies, 
 whose occupation of the country was everywhere marked by 
 devastation and blood, — the emigration of the royal family 
 with a numerous court to Rio Janeiro, and the consequent 
 drain upon the population and industry of the mother- 
 country, — the opening of the ports of Brasil to the commerce 
 of other nations, and, finally, the establishment of Brasilian 
 independence, — seem to have paralysed the energies of the 
 Portuguese, to which no doubt the frequent political changes 
 in the country have had their due share in contributing. 
 
 The alarming decrease in the population of Portugal may 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 149 
 
 be traced to causes which have been long in action, — to the 
 oppressions of an imbecile and ignorant government at home, 
 and to the great demand for labourers in the colonies. A 
 bounty has been thus offered to the native Portuguese upon 
 expatriation. With the exception of the province of the 
 Douro e Minho, at no time could Portugal boast of a super- 
 abundant population, and therefore the loss of men was 
 almost worse to her than a diminution of territorial extent. 
 With the iiicrease of her foreign dominions, the sinews of her 
 own domestic greatness and security have declined in strength. 
 The celibacy of the priesthood, the injurious extent of the 
 conventual system and religious persecutions, have deprived 
 the mother-country in a course of years of hands sufficient to 
 cultivate the soil ; and the establishment of the monastic rule 
 in her colonies has only served to increase the difficulties, 
 and still more to impoverish her by creating, beyond the mere 
 necessities occasioned by colonization, a demand for men who 
 were thenceforward to produce nothing for the benefit of the 
 state. 
 
 This system has been tantamount to the extinction of so much 
 capital ; and as if this was not sufficient to awaken a deluded 
 government to its senses, an almost uninterrupted course of 
 burning, and torment, and robbery, has been systematically 
 carried on against the domiciliated Jews, and those who, in 
 flying hither from Spanish persecution, merely exchanged the 
 practised cruelty of one set of tyrants for the inhospitable bru- 
 tality of another. Before the absurd and unchristian distinc- 
 tion had been made which branded a Jew with the mark of 
 infamy, pointed him out by the finger of scorn, and ex- 
 posed him to the fire and sword of persecution, the Jewish 
 merchant in Portugal was the same active and enterpris- 
 ing character in commerce, as the Gallego of the present 
 day is the patient and industrious operative. Were the Gali- 
 cian labourers throughout the country to be persecuted in like 
 manner, the value of their industry would of course be soon 
 
150 PORTUGAL 
 
 lost to Portugal ; and the Portuguese themselves might then 
 stoop to become " hewers of wood and drawers of water." 
 
 The cruelty, the bad faith, and the mad policy shown by 
 successive governments in Portugal towards the Jews, can 
 have had no other effect than that of depriving their treasury 
 of the benefit which it might have derived from the com- 
 mercial experience and activity of this enterprizing people in 
 the profitable employment of their capital. The Jew who 
 escaped into banishment from the united tyranny of Romish 
 avarice and fanaticism, would, as far as possible, transfer also 
 his capital to countries where the security of his person could 
 be ensured, and the sacred value of his own religious views 
 be recognized by the law of the land. The spiritof industry 
 would naturally follow him, and thus persecution would be 
 rewarded by consequent poverty ; as we see in the instance 
 of Portugal, where the iron grasp of despotism has hitherto 
 arrested the progress of national improvement, and the chilling 
 cruelties of bigotry have closed every avenue to its approach. 
 It is to the severe persecutions endured by the Jews from the 
 sovereigns of Europe, that commerce is indebted for the esta- 
 blished system of bills of exchange, which, originating in the 
 purpose of personal security, and that of property, has ever 
 since been invariably adopted for the sake of greater facility 
 in the money transactions of trading nations. 
 
 During a long series of years, Portugal seems to have been 
 almost depopulated, besides other causes, by supplying la- 
 bourers and mechanics to Brasil ; and hence the immense 
 tracts of country thrown out of cultivation in the provinces of 
 the mother-country ; and " Portugal now wants Brasil, but 
 Brasil does not want Portugal," was truly asserted some 
 years since by Cunha, whose manuscript Mr. Southey gives 
 in an abridged form at the end of his amusing little volume on 
 Portugal, and it may now be repeated with more force and 
 truth than ever. But a well-wisher to the Portuguese nation 
 cannot 1'e supposed to discover any real patriotism in the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 151 
 
 advice which would persuade the sovereign of Portugal that, 
 owing to the proximity of Spain, he holds his crown by a 
 very precarious tenure, — the conquest of Portugal being but 
 the work of one campaign for Spain, (which opinion can 
 scarcely be said to be justified by experience) ; and that the 
 best possible plan would be that the King should remove to 
 Brasil, and fix his court at the city of Rio de Janeiro ; for the 
 soil is rich, the climate delightful, and the city might soon 
 become more flourishing than Lisbon ; — that there he might 
 extend his commerce, make discoveries in the interior, and 
 take the title of Emperor of the West. 
 
 One might almost be induced to believe that the national 
 prosperity of Portugal has suffered equally by its long con- 
 nection with Brasil, as by its sudden loss of that colony, and 
 declaration of its independence. The good offices of England 
 have been exerted with laudable disinterestedness to promote 
 a reconciliation between the mother- country and the recusant 
 colony ; and whatever favour may be shown to Portugal in 
 the treaty of commerce negociated between her and Brasil, is 
 principally to be attributed to the friendly exertion of British 
 influence at the imperial court. Whether this amicable inter- 
 vention of England in behalf of its ancient ally has been 
 made in time to secure for Portugal the larger portion of the 
 ittiport commerce of Brasil, can be ascertained best, of course, 
 by practical people ; but the declining state of the Portuguese 
 manufactories, and the limited export of the produce of its 
 soil to the shores of Rio, would create a suspicion that the 
 Brasilians have already found other, better, and cheaper 
 markets than in Lisbon or Porto ; and it is natural that it 
 should be so; for nations, like individuals, awake to their 
 own interests, and having the power of choice, will invariably 
 make inquiry for commodities having the two recommenda- 
 tions of superiority in manufacture and inferiority in price. 
 
 There is, to a certain extent, so striking a singularity of 
 
15-2 PORTUGAL 
 
 resemblance between the baneful effects produced by a bad 
 and vicious system of public administration in Turkey and in 
 Portugal, that it may not be out of place to transcribe here a 
 recent report of the present condition of affairs within the 
 Ottoman empire, as illustrative of the description which will 
 follow, of the state of particular interests at this moment in 
 Portugal : — 
 
 " Little is to be expected from any attempt to introduce 
 civilization among the Turks. The profound ignorance of 
 every class of the nation is a fact to which all the strangers 
 who have formerly, or lately, visited Turkey, have borne testi- 
 mony. Their knowledge of books is never allowed to extend 
 beyond the contents of the Koran. Obscurity of intellect 
 being the great foundation on which the Mahometan faith was 
 made to rest, that book has propagated notions opposed to 
 any developement of the human understanding. 
 
 " The decay of agriculture is the principal evil with which 
 Turkey is at present afflicted In many provinces the land 
 was formerly cultivated by Greeks, who, at their country's 
 call, have flown to take up arms to reconquer their liberties. 
 Notwithstanding this desertion of brave and useful arms, the 
 Sultan persists in exercising the long-established and exclu- 
 sive monopoly of buying and selling grain in the capital at his 
 own prices ; thus paralysing the industry of the remaining 
 cultivator. The taxes on landed property having besides 
 been increased in proportion to the frequency of the govern- 
 ment's calls for money on the pachas governing the provinces, 
 enforced by local measures of the utmost rigour, have finally 
 thrown the peasant out of his habitual avocation; and the 
 deficiency in the produce of the land, whether in grain or 
 commercial commodities, has brought on universal want and 
 much distress. 
 
 " Fertile Egypt, under the government of Mohamed Ali, 
 having sacrificed her agriculture to manufactures, is no longer 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 153 
 
 the granary and storehouse of Turkey in the moment of need 
 and of famine. Russia has therefore to supply Turkey with 
 wheat, and receives nothing in exchange but specie. 
 
 " The Turks are not. less now, than formerly, dependent 
 upon foreign countries with regard to other commodities ; but 
 they have been reduced to the necessity of buying, at prices 
 considerably increased, and for cash, those importations which 
 they were in the habit of paying, in a great measure, with the 
 raw materials produced by their soil ; and the government, 
 far from endeavouring to remove any of those evils by which 
 the commercial interests of the empire are thwarted, adds to 
 them by every vexatious means through which it may reap a 
 temporary profit. 
 
 " Turkey possesses no available mines, so that it has to 
 supply itself with gold and silver from abroad ; and if it do 
 not give in return a sufficient quantity of its own productions, 
 the precious metal, after being converted into Turkish coin, 
 must necessarily form a great portion of the export trade. In 
 this manner the empire is constantly drained of its currency, 
 and the imperial treasury experiences, at the end of every 
 year, a progressive diminution of its regular revenue. A new 
 coin is then put into circulation, of less intrinsic worth, though 
 proportionably the same in nominal value. The old coin, 
 becoming obsolete, is sent to foreign countries to be melted 
 down, and returns in ingots, of which the Sultan becomes 
 again the purchaser. The prejudice which this complicated 
 method necessarily occasions to the less wealthy portion of 
 the nation is incalculable, and of course it must ultimately fall 
 back upon the government. 
 
 " The population of the Ottoman empire is known to be 
 inadequate to its extent. A Turk is always a Turk, accord- 
 ing to the Greek proverb, do what you will with him ;" — and, 
 as far as bigoted attachment to old prejudice?, the same may be 
 said of a considerable portion of the higher classes of Portuguese. 
 
154 PORTUGAL 
 
 By the law of Portugal all payments, excepting those for 
 mil ho, or maise, fruits, and other productions, which are paid 
 for solely in coin, are made in what is called in Portuguese 
 ley, which signifies law or currency. In other words, one 
 moiety is paid in metal, and the other in paper ; that is, in 
 treasury bills or notes. 
 
 During the war, the Portuguese government made their 
 payments in bills, which were to be redeemable, and, in the 
 mean time, were to bear interest. The circulation of this 
 paper has been lately estimated to amount to ^1,500,000; 
 and its price, according to a report recently published, has 
 been known to vary from 50 per cent, discount, at the period 
 when the French armies occupied a part of the territory of 
 Portugal, to 15 per cent., since the country has been restored 
 to its legitimate sovereigns. The finances of the state have 
 not been such, at any time since the peace, as to enable the 
 government to redeem the notes issued by the treasury, in 
 consequence of their very large amount ; but the quantity of 
 this paper in circulation must be annually diminished from a 
 variety of accidental causes. These treasury notes are in 
 value each from 1200 reis to 20,000 reis, and a regular trade 
 is carried on in them by persons who are called cambistas. 
 The note itself is wretchedly executed, nearly obliterated by 
 length of use, filthy, and no doubt may be and is easily 
 counterfeited. 
 
 The principal coin in circulation is the crusado novo, which 
 is about the value of two shillings and threepence, or four- 
 pence. 
 
 The danger and inconvenience, however, of carrying any 
 large amount of specie upon roads so frequently beset^ as they 
 are in Portugal, with banditti, have induced the issue, by the 
 bank of Lisbon, of notes payable on demand in the current 
 coin of the realm, which, although not intended to supersede 
 the circulation of a metallic medium, have yet always been 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 155 
 
 considered as good as the current coin, and have been received 
 as such in part payment of all bills throughout the country. 
 But the value of both the treasury and the bank notes are too 
 high to admit of their being generally current among the lower 
 classes of the people, whose reckonings are chiefly made in 
 reis, vintens, or tostotns ; which latter coin maybe regarded as 
 the Portuguese shilling, being the one the most frequently re- 
 ferred to in money transactions and general calculations. 
 
 The piece of five reis has about the same value as the 
 British farthing; and the twelve vintens silver piece, which 
 consists of 240 reis, is worth about one shilling and twopence. 
 The principal metallic currency of Portugal is however silver, 
 and the traveller must not expect that he will find any quan- 
 tity of gold coin in circulation, for it is rapidly passing out of 
 the country into the hands of foreigners, who melt it down. 
 It has been declared by authority to be depended upon, that 
 all the old gold coins are quite obsolete, excepting the pieces 
 of 6,400 reis, which pass in legal tender for 7,500 reis; and 
 the pieces of 3,200 reis, which are current at the value of 
 3,750 reis. Although these pieces have, from circumstances, 
 been so much raised above the value which they were in- 
 tended to express, the money-changers are in the habit of 
 giving a still higher price for them, and consequently they 
 will soon wholly disappear. 
 
 It is asserted that there is also a deficiency of silver in the 
 country; but no one seems to be able to say whether the 
 cause is to be attributed to the excessive issues by the bank 
 direction of their notes, which may have had the effect of 
 causing an unfavourable rate of exchange with other coun- 
 tries, — to the exportation of silver to markets where it fetches 
 a higher price, — or to the large payments made in specie for 
 British merchandise. 
 
 In order to convey to you a more distinct idea of what the 
 metallic currency of the country has been, the accompanying 
 
156 PORTUGAL 
 
 plates of Portuguese coins, the originals of which have been 
 procured for us by a friend, may be of service. They are 
 numbered, and the designation of its value is affixed to each 
 coin. 
 
 GOLD COINS. 
 
 5^0. 1. — Crown piece of John V. (480 reis) worth about two shillings and 
 
 threepence. 
 No. 2. — Crusado (400 reis) or about two shillings. 
 ]^f o. 3. — Crusado novo (480 reis) or about two shillings and fourpence. 
 No. 4. — Eight tostofens' piece (800 reis) value about four shillings and four- 
 pence. 
 No. 5. — Quartinho d'ouro (12tosto^ns; 1200 reis) value about six shillings 
 
 and threepence. 
 No. 6. — Sixteen tosto^ns' piece (1600 reis) value about eight shillings and 
 
 tenpence. 
 No. 7. — Mfeya mo6da d'ouro (half a moidore of John V., 1715; 2400 reis) 
 
 worth about twelve shillings and sixpence. 
 No. 8. — M^ya mo6da d'ouro (of Maria, 1777; 2400 reis) worth about 
 
 twelve shillings and sixpence. 
 No. 9. — Mo6da d'ouro (moidore of John V., 1724 ; 4800 reis) value about 
 
 one pound five shillings. 
 No. 10. — Peja de seis mil e quatrocentos (worth in 1827, 7700 reis, or 77 
 
 tosto^ns, Maria e Pedro III., 1783; 6400 reis) value rather 
 
 more than one pound fifteen shillings and sixpence. 
 No. 11. — Two and a half moidore piece (John V., 1726; 12,000 reis) worth 
 
 nearly three pounds two shillings. 
 No. 12.— Dobrao (John V., 1728 ; the double pfega, or 128 tosto^ns : 12,800 
 
 reis) worth rather more than three pounds eleven shillings. 
 No. 13. — Five moidore piece (John V., 1728 ; 24,000 reis) worth about six 
 
 pounds five shillings, 
 
 SILVER COINS. 
 
 No. 1. — A silver piece of one vint^m (20 reis) or little more than one penny 
 
 in value. 
 No. 2. — Silver piece of half a tostao (2| vintens, or 50 reis) nearly threepence 
 
 in value. 
 No. 3. — Silver piece (3 vintens, or 60 reis) worth about threepence halfpenny. 
 
-if- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 157 
 
 No. 4. — Tostao (silver piece of 100 reis) rather more than sixpence in value. 
 
 No. 5. — Six vintens silver piece (120 reis) worth about sevenpence. 
 
 No. 6. — Twelve vintens silver piece (240 reis) worth about one shilling and 
 
 twopence. 
 No. 7. — Crusado novo (silver piece of 24 vintens, or 480 reis) the current value 
 
 being in English money about two shillings and fourpence. 
 
 COPPER COINS. 
 
 No. 1. — One and a half real piece (of Peter II., 1700) less than half a 
 
 farthing in value. 
 No. 2. — Three reis piece (of Maria and Peter III., 1797) less than a farthing 
 
 in value. 
 No. 3. — Five reis piece (Maria Regiua, 1799) about one farthing in value. 
 No. 4. — Ten reis piece (Maria I., 1799) worth a little more than a halfpenny. 
 
 The Portuguese government at Lisbon issued a proclamation 
 upon the 11th of November, 1812, upon the representation of 
 the Duke of Wellington, that the English guinea should pass 
 as current coin in the country at 3733 reis each, it being of this 
 numeral value in Portuguese money. In the good old times of 
 Portugal, such was the superior value of the currency, that 
 the exchange on London was generally stated at 67 pence per 
 mUreis; whereas, since the depreciation of the currency, it has 
 declined to 48 pence per milreis. 
 
 In the more fortunate period too of the history of Portugal, 
 its connection with the rich colony of Brasil was the source of 
 immense wealth to the nation at large. The productions of 
 America were imported in vast quantities into Lisbon and 
 Porto, and were thence distributed all over Europe ; and the 
 returns, in manufactures and in other articles, from European 
 countries, found their way again through the same channel to 
 the Brasilian shores. Thus a very lucrative commerce was 
 maintained, and greatly advantageous to all the parties who 
 embarked in it ; but the larger benefit was received from it by 
 the maritime cities of Portugal. 
 
 In addition to its other exports to the mother-country, Brasil 
 
158 PORTUGAL 
 
 transmitted to Portugal almost the entire produce of its gold 
 and diamond mines, which were often extremely abundant. 
 During a long series of years of peace and prosperity, a vast 
 accumulation of the precious metals in Portugal was supported 
 by the constant supplies which it continued to receive from that 
 colony, though the amount might occasionally be diminished 
 by clandestine exportations to foreign countries. No wonder 
 then that the Portuguese, though at all times more of a military 
 and a commercial than a manufacturing nation, were accounted 
 rich by rival powers. 
 
 The gold coins of the country consisted, as we have already 
 seen, in former times, of pieces of 6400, 4800, 3200, 2400, 
 1600, 1200, 800, and 400 reis, in which payments were prin- 
 cipally made, the silver coinage being of course subsidiary to 
 them. The pieces of gold are of great purity, and come 
 within one half per cent, of the British standard ; whereas the 
 silver coin is current for more than its comparative value tO' 
 gold, that is in the proportion of sixteen to one, the difference 
 of value between the two metals being, in France, as fifteen 
 and a half to one. 
 
 Whilst Portugal remained in the enjoyment of uninterrupted 
 peace and of Brasilian commerce, at one time a source of infi- 
 nite prosperity to the nation, there was no danger that any 
 abstraction of the precious metals for European purposes should 
 not be soon restored by fresh supplies from that colony ; but 
 when the government, about the years 1794 and 1795, was 
 pressed by France to make common cause against England, 
 and was compelled to pay to the former power a large sum of 
 money, with the vain hope of being allowed to preserve her 
 neutrality, it had recourse, as we have already remarked, to an 
 issue of paper money ; and this was circulated under the pro- 
 tection of a law, which provided that thenceforward all pay- 
 ments should be accepted, one half in metal, and the other in 
 paper. Whilst the issue of this paper was conducted with 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 159 
 
 moderation, its value was preserved, to which perhaps its bear- 
 ing a certain rate of interest, namely 4 per cent per annum, con- 
 tributed in part. As long as the government continued to pay 
 the interest upon its notes with some regularity, they passed 
 in general circulation without any diminution of value. 
 
 The following observations have been recently communicated 
 to us by a French gentleman engaged in commerce, and well ac- 
 quainted with the circumstances of those times : " La premiere 
 Amission de ce papier monnoye ne fit gufere beaucoup d'impres- 
 sion sur la marche ordinaire des affaires de commerce, ni sur 
 les Changes, parceque ce papier monnoye portoit la promesse 
 d'un int^r^t annuel de quatre per cent — int6r6t qui ^toit un 
 avantage pour les maisons qui avoient toujours des sommes 
 flottantes en caisse, et qui mettoient de c6t6 le papier qui 
 jouissoit de six mois ou plus d'dch^ance pour en toucher le dit 
 int^r^t. Mais ces int^r^ts ne furent pay^s qu' k des favoris^s, 
 et en suite on cessa de les payer, c'est ce qui joint aux pres- 
 sans besoins du Gouvernement, et la facility de pomper hors de 
 la circulation la moiti6 des espfeces sonnantes, en les remplap ant 
 tout simplement par du papier, causa la depreciation subse- 
 quente, comme cela doit toujours arriver dans des pays ou 
 I'arbitraire r^gne, et ou on ne respecte pas les loix." 
 
 This system, however, was frequently interrupted, owing 
 to the impoverished state of the treasury ; and it was not long 
 before the Portuguese government fell into the error, into 
 which other nations have subsequently run ; namely, that of 
 sanctioning an issue of paper without any reference being 
 made in regulating the amount to the wants of commercial 
 transactions, but solely to the necessities of the treasury. 
 From this cause, the quantity of the treasury notes thrown into 
 circulation at length exceeded the public demand for its own 
 accommodation, and the consequent depreciation in their value 
 accordingly took place. Still, however, the mixed system of 
 metal and paper currency worked tolerably well, until the 
 country was threatened by an invasion from France. 
 
160 PORTUGAL 
 
 It was not until after the departure of the Queen Mother, 
 the Prince Regent, and royal family for Bahia and Rio Ja- 
 neiro, in 1 807, which singular event was followed by an entire 
 interruption of all intercourse with that colony, and a total 
 stagnation of commerce during the occupation of the country 
 by the French, that the depreciation in the value of the trea- 
 sury paper assumed a serious character ; and within that pe- 
 riod the discount on paper against metal attained to 35 per 
 cent. Up to this time the gold coin still continued to be 
 circulated in a large proportion, and the bulk of payments 
 were made in them ; but it may be reasonably presumed that 
 the emigration of so large a portion of the nobility, which ac- 
 companied the royal family in their flight from the Tagus, and 
 in addition, the numerous British merchants who quitted the 
 country with their capital and establishments, upon the ap- 
 proach of the French army to the hills of Lisbon, would occa- 
 sion an immense substraction of the precious metals. It is 
 obvious that the purer gold pieces would be preferred to the 
 inferior silver coin, as the better exchangeable representative 
 of value. To what extent this process of abstraction was car- 
 ried on cannot exactly now be ascertained ; but from that time 
 the gold currency began to disappear. 
 
 On the occupation of the Portuguese territory by the French 
 army, another drain of the precious metals was opened. The 
 lust for gain evinced by the general-in-chief, — by the generals 
 of divisions, — by the commissaries, and all persons who found 
 opportunity to satiate their thirst at the expense of Portugal, 
 gave occasion for the introduction of French and Spanish gold 
 at an enhanced value ; and a law was enacted, which imposed 
 the general obligation of accepting it in all payments. This 
 law was tantamount in effect to a debasement of the coin of 
 the realm, and in a very short course of time a traffic in the 
 precious metals of the country took place, which proved most 
 lucrative to those engaged in it, but particularly to the French, 
 who had adopted it for their own exclusive advantage. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 161 
 
 It must be evident that the French gold coin would in con- 
 sequence be at last substituted altogether for the Portuguese, 
 and continue to constitute the principal metallic circulation in 
 Portugal, as long as the French troops remained in the pos- 
 session of the country. After their departure, and during the 
 peninsular war, the currency was again restored to its former 
 footing; but still the Spanish dollars, introduced chiefly by 
 the British commissariat for the supply of the army, formed a 
 great, and perhaps the better part of that currency, as the 
 principal part of the Portuguese gold had been expatriated 
 never to return. Thus then, at that period, silver became the 
 basis of the currency, and continued to be offered together 
 with paper, in the proportion of half of the one and half of 
 the other in all payments. 
 
 The general peace in Europe found this state of things in 
 Portugal ; but since that period the large expenditure of the 
 British army in the country has ceased ; and such has been the 
 gradually declining state of the commerce of Portugal, that 
 the balance of its trade with other nations has been seriously 
 against her. But this state of things will create no surprise, 
 if it is considered that the great and principal source of wealth 
 and prosperity, which it had enjoyed for such a length of time 
 by its connection with Brasil, was suddenly cut off by the 
 declaration of that colony's independence of the mother coun- 
 try ; and Mr. Costigan, so long ago as 1779, remarked that, 
 without the gold, which numbers of condemned and unfor* 
 tunate wretches are continually tearing from the bowels of the 
 earth, and remitting from the new world to the old, it would 
 be utterly impossible for Portugal to subsist for six months 
 as a separate and independent state. Without participating 
 in this opinion to its fullest extent, yet we must admit that 
 Portugal, being almost without manufactures, and entirely 
 limited to the produce of the soil, could not be expected to 
 remain long without feeling severely the consequence of be- 
 Port. ^ 
 
162 PORTUGAL 
 
 ing dependent on foreign nations for the supply of many 
 necessaries. 
 
 Hence it is that the metallic currency, although much infe- 
 rior to what it was in the more fortunate periods of Portu- 
 guese history, continues to disappear ; and as the government 
 has absurdly attempted by the intervention of a positive law 
 to prevent, — which, we know from experience at home, that no 
 government can ever effect with the balance of trade against 
 it, — the expatriation of the precious metals, what remains of a 
 metallic currency is finding its way gradually into other coun- 
 tries by an organised system of smuggling. The prospect of a 
 revival of commerce in Portugal, and, as a necessary conse- 
 quence, a turn of the balance of trade in her favour, seems, it 
 must be confessed, as far as we can judge, to be remote ; and 
 as long as the present state of things continues, it is natural to 
 expect that an uninterrupted drain will carry away the pre- 
 cious metals out of the country. The attempt, however, to 
 put a stop to the clandestine removal of the metallic medium, 
 to meet the demands of other markets, or discharge the mer- 
 cantile obligations due to other states, would be attended, in 
 all probability, with as much success as if the government 
 were to endeavour to prevent the tide from running down by 
 Belem castle. 
 
 Portugal is an importing, not an exporting country. She 
 has scarcely any manufactures, and therefore she is compelled 
 to purchase almost every necessary article ; and as, with the 
 exception of her wines, some fruits, wool, and salt, she has no 
 native productions to offer in exchange for the various goods 
 which she imports, she must pay for them in specie. 
 
 The commerce in salt is not inconsiderable ; during the last 
 twenty years the average amount exported, (and principally for 
 the Newfoundland trade,) that is from St, Ubes, Figueira, and 
 Aveiro, has been annually 530,000,000 reis, or about one hun- 
 dred and ten thousand pounds. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 163 
 
 Until she can manufacture for herself, — grow corn sufficient 
 for her own consumption, at a less expense, that is, than she 
 can import it from other countries, — and is enabled by a more 
 careful system of cultivation, — by a better directed industry, 
 to produce objects for exportation, such as oil, for instance, 
 wool, and bees-wax, and in these three articles she has large 
 resources of wealth wholly neglected, or at least wretchedly 
 mismanaged, we must expect to find that the balance of trade 
 will remain against her ; that her specie will continue to be 
 withdrawn ; that her forced system of paper currency will ter- 
 minate in an increased rate of discount ; and that the credit of 
 the country will be finally extinguished. 
 
 Whilst enumerating the resources which will be at the com- 
 mand of Portugal so soon as her industry shall have been pro- 
 perly directed, we should not omit to state that the breeding 
 of sheep is susceptible of great increase and improvement; 
 nor ought we to forget to mention the cultivation of the white 
 mulberry-tree, which, if followed up with skill, could not fail 
 of forming a certain source of wealth to the nation ; for there 
 seems no reason to apprehend that the climate of Portugal 
 would be less favourable to the production of the silk-worm 
 than that of the south of France, or of Italy. The Portu- 
 guese could supply the raw material in abundance to foreign 
 markets, as well as for their home manufactures, were their 
 attention properly directed to this subject, and this branch of 
 industry encouraged by the government. Pombal, indeed, in 
 the reign of Joseph I., attempted the 'growth and manufacture 
 of silk ; but requiring money for other state purposes, he was 
 obliged secretly to contravene that which he appeared publicly 
 to support. 
 
 At a more recent period, a national bank was established, 
 and has continued to issue notes upon its own credit, founded 
 upon the deposit of specie. The original charter provided 
 
164 PORTUGAL 
 
 that the bank should consist of ten thousand shares, of one 
 hundred pounds each ; but scarcely the moiety of the intended 
 capital has ever been subscribed, and yet the number of notes 
 put into circulation are stated to be fully equal to the amount 
 of the proposed subscription. The direction is confided ex- 
 clusively to native Portuguese, and it virould not appear that 
 foreigners have been at all forward in committing their money 
 to the management of men, of whose experience in business, 
 and integrity, no very favourable reports are now current. It 
 was the opinion of many people, when the bank was first 
 instituted at Lisbon, that the time was ill-chosen for the forma- 
 tion of such an establishment, because the government was 
 still vicious, the people not yet sufficiently informed in such 
 matters, and the constitution of the realm was but still in its 
 infancy. 
 
 Experience has shown that a bank will always prosper, 
 when the influence of government is not allowed to exercise a 
 dangerous controul over its proceedings ; but notwithstanding 
 this evident truth before their eyes, the present directors of 
 the Lisbon bank have contracted enormous loans, (some say 
 to the amount of double their capital,) with the government of 
 the day. Doubts begin now to be entertained of the stability 
 of the bank, and it is strongly suspected that the directors are 
 anxiously endeavouring to induce the government to sanction 
 the circulation of their notes in lieu of a metallic medium, their 
 own metallic deposits having been withdrawn. 
 
 With respect to any economical arrangements which should 
 be adopted in the case of the revenue, and in the manner 
 of collecting the taxes ; the information which we have re- 
 ceived is, that one third, only of the amount exacted ever 
 enters the public treasury, the rest being eaten up by the 
 many men who subsist on the collection of the imposts, from 
 the most menial to the very treasurer himself. " They are 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 165 
 
 all," as a Portuguese emphatically observed to me, " a gang of 
 thieves, and so are the receivers and treasurers of the large 
 sums levied annually upon the indigences of the people." 
 
 Much will depend upon the personal character of the future 
 ruler of this country for the restoration of its finances, and the 
 resumption of its important rank among European nations. 
 Notwithstanding present appearances are so unfavourable to 
 her future prosperity, one would willingly indulge in the 
 hope that, with good management, Portugal may in a course 
 of years be completely renovated, and recover her former cha- 
 racter, wealth, and happiness. Every department of the go- 
 vernment, however, must first be completely remodelled, and 
 the rule of the country committed to the hands of an able, en- 
 lightened, energetic, and uncompromising ministry, who have 
 no interests to serve but those of the public weal. The neces- 
 sity of an active, honest, and intelligent government, must 
 now be admitted by men of every party ; while the best 
 friends to the real interests of Portugal look with reason to the 
 maintenance of the constitutional charter, as her firmest pro- 
 tection in the hour of difficulty, and as her only source of ulti- 
 mate safety. 
 
 The favourable position of Portugal politically considered — 
 its advantageous situation for commanding the commerce of 
 the eastern and western worlds, and its alliance with the 
 British power, at all times jealous of French and Spanish en- 
 croachments, and of the union of the peninsula, is the best se- 
 curity to the Portuguese for the integrity and independence of 
 their country. England will never again allow the Portu- 
 guese sceptre to pass into Castilian hands, to complete the 
 work of destruction almost finished by them during their sixty 
 years usurpation. The happiness and welfare of Portugal are 
 founded upon the maintenance of her terms of amity with 
 Great Britain ; and her re-advancement to wealth among the 
 nations of the world depends upon the reanimating influence 
 
166 PORTUGAL 
 
 of the constitutional charter being unimpeded by the evil pas- 
 sions of the nobility and priesthood, in its operation for the 
 public good. Portugal needs alliances, and her best friend is 
 England. 
 
 The history of the charter is briefly as follows : " On the 
 10th of March, 1826," to cite the words of the author of ' the 
 State of Portugal,' " King John, who had been permitted to 
 retain the empty title of Emperor of Brasil, by the treaty ne- 
 gociated between himself and his son at Rio Janeiro, in 1825, 
 closed together a life and a reign, of which it would be difficult 
 to say what enjoyment he could have derived from either. 
 In his person and in his kingdom he appeared marked for 
 calamities, as various as they were heavy. Had he possessed 
 discrimination of character to select wise and faithful coun- 
 sellors, such were the pliancy and humility of his disposition, 
 that even while invested with the most absolute power, he 
 would have been the father and benefactor of his subjects. 
 He. erred in this important point, and Portugal yet groans 
 under the effects of his error. His death, however, had been 
 anticipated with sentiments of deep alarm." 
 
 At the latter end of the month following the demise of Don 
 John VI., his son Don Pedro, Emperor of Brasil, succeeding 
 to the possession of the crown of Portugal as the legitimate 
 and acknowledged heir of his father, conferred upon his Por- 
 tuguese subjects the gift of the constitutional charter, which 
 is justly characterised by the author alluded to before, as 
 " an instrument formed on the best models that limited mo- 
 narchies can furnish, and peculiarly adapted to meet the ills 
 under which Portugal has suffered so cruelly, and one that 
 should be a bond of union among all parties, and attach them 
 by a general feeling of gratitude " to him by whom this boon 
 was freely given. Although recognised by the concurrent 
 voices of the general law of nations, and by his father's express 
 sanction, the indisputable successor to the throne of his an- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 167 
 
 cestors, Don Pedro preferred the empire of Brasil ; and as the 
 two governments could not be united in one person, he abdi- 
 cated prospectively the crown of Portugal in favour of Donna 
 Maria da Gloria, his infant daughter, as appears by the fifth 
 article of the charter, which ordains that the reigning dynasty 
 of the most serene house of Braganza is continued in the 
 person of the princess, by the abdication and cession of her 
 father, legitimate heir and successor to Don John VI. The 
 author of the state of Portugal again remarks, that " the 
 arrangements conducted by the Emperor Don Pedro for the 
 settlement of the Portuguese crown, appear to have been 
 adopted upon much deliberation, and with an earnest solici- 
 tude to provide against every contingency that could be fore- 
 seen. The Emperor's abdication in favour of his daughter 
 was accompanied with the condition that the young Princess 
 should not quit Brasil for Portugal until the constitution should 
 be sworn to, and the marriage concluded between herself and 
 her uncle, Don Miguel." 
 
 In the mean time the Emperor has, by the appointment of 
 his brother to the lieutenancy of the kingdom, confirmed his 
 claim, according to the provisions of the charter, to hold the 
 regency, as his nearest relative of age in the order of succes- 
 sion. The charter provides that the husband of the Princess 
 shall not be called King, until, as Queen, she shall have borne 
 him a child. Don Miguel will then become the titular King 
 of Portugal ; and should he be fortunate in being surrounded 
 by wise counsellors, and be supported by an able and consti- 
 tutional ministry, then will the Portuguese experience, in a 
 renovation of their civil and political system, all the benefits 
 intended for the nation by the Emperor's free gift of a repre- 
 sentative form of government, by the establishment of a liberal 
 policy, and the furtherance of enlightened principles. . It is 
 indeed to be hoped that the result of this rational scheme of 
 well-regulated freedom will ultimately show itself in the 
 
168 PORTUGAL 
 
 reviving prosperity and happiness of the Portuguese nation, 
 and that all parties will learn from the example set them by 
 the chief of the state, to unite in support of the hallowed 
 cause ; for 
 
 'Tis liberty alone that gives the flower 
 
 Of fleeting life its lustre and perfume ; 
 
 And we are weeds without it. All constraint. 
 
 Except what wisdom lays on evil men. 
 
 Is evil ; hurts the faculties, impedes 
 
 Their progress in the road of science ; blinds 
 
 The eyesight of discovery ; and begets 
 
 In those that suffer it, a sordid mind. 
 
 Bestial, a meagre intellect, unfit 
 
 To be the tenant of man's noble form, 
 
 Cowpek's Winter Morning Walk, Book v, 
 
 A French writer justly remarks, " Accoutumer les hommes 
 k rhumiliation et k la bassesse, c'est leur 6ter toute leur 
 force." 
 
 foucrxnA, ok absolutist. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 169 
 
 LETTER VII. 
 
 We have strict statutes and most biting laws, 
 (The needful bits and curbs to headstrong steeds) 
 Which for these nineteen years we have let sleep ; 
 — — — — — in time the rod 
 Becomes more mocked than feared : so our decrees. 
 Dead to infliction, to themselves are dead ; 
 And Liberty plucks Justice by the nose ; 
 The baby beats the nurse, and quite athwart 
 Goes all decorum. 
 
 Measure for Measure. 
 
 Porto, 1827. 
 
 Owing to the violence of the north wind, which blows 
 down the coast at this season, the " Paquete Restaurador 
 Lusitano, movido por vapor," was unable to venture across 
 the bar of the Tagus for some days ; but at length the wind 
 becoming more moderate, we were hurried on board, and 
 slowly and solemnly made our way out to sea, passing almost 
 under the bows of the British men of war, and the experi- 
 mental squadron, anchored in a long line extending nearly 
 down to the point of Traffraria. 
 
 In the meanwhile, our names had been called over by a 
 civil officer ; and off the Castle of Belem we were visited by 
 the river police. At noon we had passed the Cabo da Roca, 
 
170 PORTUGAL 
 
 and as the " Real Privilegio" steam-engine proved as defective 
 in its condition as w^ill be found most of the establishments 
 which, in this country, enjoy the advantages of government 
 protection, to the exclusion of the fair trader and the benefits 
 of general competition, we foresaw very speedily that which 
 did in fact occur, namely, that, instead of running the distance 
 between Lisbon and Porto in less than twenty-four hours, as 
 we were assured that we should, it would require more than 
 forty-eight hours to bring us into the Douro. 
 
 To make any inquiries of the helmsman, or of the captain, 
 why the vessel was allowed to proceed on her voyage in such 
 a wretched trim, appeared wholly out of the question, for the 
 captain soon became sick, and took to his bed ; and if the 
 grim, whiskered, dark physiognomy of the helmsman had not 
 been sufficient to have damped the ardour of bold inquiry, 
 the imposing injunction, in brass letters, upon the end of the 
 tiller, " Prohibe se a qualquer pessoa converg ar com o horaem, 
 que esteja ao leme," — would of course have held one's tongue 
 spell-bound. 
 
 The enormous sum of 12,000 reis, actually demanded in 
 metal, procured for those who had bespoken them in time, 
 berths in a cabin where it was absolutely worse than death to 
 remain ; and the additional payment of three crowns to the 
 Restaurado on board, entitled those whose appetite kept pace 
 with the payment, to the enjoyment of meat nearly in a state 
 of corruption, as well as other luxuries, such as mouldy bread, 
 blue potatoes, yellow greens, and execrable wine. 
 
 It could not be supposed that we should be capable of 
 making more than two knots an hour with such an engine as 
 that of the Paquete Lusitano, against a strong head- wind, and 
 in a rolling sea ; and accordingly it was almost night when we 
 passed the Berlenga Islands. 
 
 Outside the railing of the principal deck, there was a 
 crowded and curious scene, composed of Portuguese, Galician, 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 171 
 
 and other Spanish peasants, in their respective costumes ; a 
 few soldiers returning to their regiments in garrison ; some 
 old women of the province of Tras os Montes, whose large 
 brimmed hats and blue dress reminded us of the female 
 peasantry in Wales ; and half a dozen monks, Franciscan, 
 Carmelite, and Benedictine ; — all stretched out upon the deck, 
 higgledy-piggledy, in one confused mass, and with scarcely 
 room to move. From time to time we were regaled, as they 
 were feasted, by the usually odorate fry of oily sardinhas, and 
 vegetable soup, whose colour was as decidedly classic as its 
 scent was perfectly national. Two splendid sunsets, however, 
 which assumed on the horizon a variety of shapes, owing to 
 the hazy atmosphere, and an optical illusion which we wit- 
 nessed in the case of a ship and the coast, consoled our mis- 
 fortunes, together with listening to the fervid conversation of 
 those who were quitting Lisbon for the constitutional atmo- 
 sphere of Porto, in consequence of the recent disturbances. 
 
 We arrived too late off the mouth of the Douro for any pilot 
 to venture out to take us across the bar, and therefore were 
 compelled to anchor for the night off San Joao da Foz, where 
 there is a small fort to defend the passage of the river. This 
 little watering-place, as that of Matozinhos, at no great dis- 
 tance to the north, which is situated at the mouth of the Le^a, 
 is the favourite resort of the wealthier inhabitants of Porto 
 during the violent heat of the summer. 
 
 The dangerous passage across the bar of the Douro, and its 
 shifting sands, are well known. The care and skill required 
 to navigate a vessel with safety into the Douro, even during 
 the summer, may give an idea of what the perils of this dan- 
 gerous bar must be during the winter months, when the coast 
 is exposed to the unbridled fury of the westerly winds, and to 
 the full force of the Atlantic waves. 
 
 By six o'clock the next morning, the steam-vessel had come 
 to her moorings in the river, above the finished line of the 
 
172 PORTUGAL 
 
 new quay, having the town of Porto to the left, and Villa 
 Nova, with its wine-warehouses, of which a sketch is added, 
 to the right, on the left bank of the Douro, overlooked by the 
 Serra Convent, whence that view was taken. 
 
 The drawing which is inclosed with this letter, represents 
 the scenery of the Douro looking up the river, at some dis- 
 tance from the bar. The lofty arch which you see upon the 
 height to the left, over the anchoring ground of the Brasihan 
 ships, was erected as a land-mark for the safer navigation of 
 vessels coming up the river. Upon the right is seen the old 
 Protestant burial-ground, known by the name of Cavaco; 
 which has been disused ever since the prejudices of the 
 government have so far abated as to allow the Protestants a 
 place of worship and a cemetery of their own, on an elevated 
 plain to the north-west of the town. At a little distance from 
 the projecting rock, above which the masts of a ship are seen, 
 there is a large convent for females, seated upon a gentle rise 
 above the river ; and still further on is the custom-house, 
 which we should not have recognized as a public building, had 
 it not been pointed out to us as such. 
 
 Notwithstanding the Douro is so much narrower than the 
 Tagus, and the grand features of the latter are wanting to 
 complete the scenery of the former, yet an English eye will 
 prefer the appearance of the rocks and green woods which 
 surround Porto and Villa Nova, to the herbless heights on 
 which Lisbon and Almada are situated. 
 
 On landing at the Porta dos Banhos, we had reason to be 
 convinced of the superior habits of cleanliness adopted by the 
 inhabitants of Porto to those of Lisbon, although the proof 
 was for the passing moment disagreeable. Troops of men, 
 women, and boys, were bringing down the refuse and filth of 
 the streets, and filling a large barge moored close to the 
 landing-place, which was to transport its precious contents to 
 the other side of the river, where the poverty of the soil 
 

 G 
 
 m 
 ft , 
 
 & 
 
 c 
 ft 
 
 ^ 
 
 w 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 173 
 
 requires that the gardens and vineyards should receive conti- 
 nual dressings of manure. The consequence is, that the 
 streets of Porto are as clean as those of any English town ; 
 and the only four-legged scavengers allowed to roam about 
 unmolested, are sundry swine, who have the privilege of de- 
 parting their homes each evening, in search of refuse vege- 
 tables, thrown after dinner hours into the streets, and which 
 would become corrupt, and emit noxious exhalations, were they 
 suffered to remain until the morning. 
 
 The hospitality, too, of Porto is far to be preferred to that 
 of Lisbon ; for English comforts are found in every department 
 of the house where we have been most liberally and kindly 
 received. A feeling of delicacy alone prevents our mentioning 
 the names of our excellent host and his exemplary wife, as in- 
 deed of the several branches of their family, whose boundless 
 hospitality and more than friendly attentions to the travellers, 
 have surpassed all that we have ever yet experienced, in the 
 anticipation of our wishes, and in the promoting schemes of 
 pleasure to render our visit amongst them agreeable. Those 
 who had the happiness with ourselves of being received under 
 a roof where benignity and generous profusion marked our 
 welcome, — where piety without ostentation, and virtue with- 
 out austerity, characterized the amiable host and hostess, — 
 will join with us in the testimony which is here heartily borne 
 to such bright specimens of the Portuguese nation, however 
 feebly and inadequately expressed. For the kind solicitude 
 experienced during severe illness, and the promptitude with 
 which information was afforded to us upon all the subjects in 
 which we took an interest, as connected with those of Portugal, 
 they must accept the travellers gratitude, and feel assured that 
 they will carry the recollection of the happy and the profitable 
 days, passed in their society, with them to the grave. 
 
 Nor must mention be omitted, on this occasion, of one of 
 the worthiest creatures in the world, of whose mind, indeed. 
 
174 PORTUGAL 
 
 goodness and kindness seemed the fixed and the inbred habits, 
 " meu amigo e collega Senhor Frey Domingos Justiniano," 
 who contributed so much by his musical talents to the charm 
 of our evenings, and shone in the Modinha, accompanied by 
 our lady hostess, who excelled no less in accomplishments 
 than in virtues. Not to retain at heart many saudades for this 
 excellent monk and his liberal and warm-hearted patrons, 
 is impossible, as it is to do justice to the feelings of gratitude 
 excited by the memory of the friendship experienced in the 
 Ferraria de Baixo. 
 
 Shortly after our arrival at Porto, we were induced to 
 attend the funeral solemnities of a relative of the family, in 
 the chapel belonging to the lay brotherhood of the Francis- 
 can order, which includes females also in its society. The 
 association was formed for religious purposes, and the mainte- 
 nance of a hospital. Its funds are said to amount to the sum 
 of ^60,000 ; and this has arisen from the monies advanced 
 by each member upon her or his admission into the assembly. 
 The first attempt was made in this chapel to interfere with 
 the established custom of burying bodies immediately under 
 the floors of churches ; and here accordingly arched vaults have 
 been constructed, at a considerable depth below the building, 
 for the reception of the dead. 
 
 It is the custom of the country for all the members of a 
 family to attend the last moments of a dying relative ; and 
 when a female dies, that her female relatives should dress the 
 body for the grave. The defunct, in this case, of which we are 
 speaking, had been conveyed to the chapel on the evening 
 previous to the performance of his obsequies, attired in the 
 dress of the brotherhood in an open coffin, the folding covers 
 being left down, and the head and feet remaining exposed to 
 view. The trestle on which the body rested, was covered by 
 a drapery of black velvet, ornamented with gold, and was 
 placed at the upper end of the nave, immediately at the base 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 175 
 
 of the steps leading up to the choir and to the elevated high 
 altar, which was illuminated by countless tapers ; and above 
 it appeared a sculptured representation of the Saviour in his 
 glory, surrounded by the angelic host. The lofty arch which 
 separated the nave from the choir, was hung with a curtain of 
 black cloth upon either side, which approached so closely as to 
 leave but a mysteriously imperfect view of the blazing altar. 
 The two pulpits were likewise covered in the same way, while 
 the four side altars were mournfully decorated with black vel- 
 vet, on which were worked in gold the emblems of mortality, 
 and upon each blazed six wax tapers. 
 
 The monks and attendant choristers were arranged on either 
 side of the body, holding consecrated candles. The body had 
 the appearance of an effigy in marble ; but this momentary 
 illusion was instantly gone, as the effect of the climate was 
 perceived, and a myriad of flies were observed collected about 
 the mouth and nostrils. A vessel filled with holy water was 
 placed at the foot of the bier, which the priests and relatives 
 of the deceased sprinkled from time to time on the body ; a 
 rite participated in by poor and ragged persons, who intruded 
 themselves among the mourners at the rails of the choir. In 
 addition to the different members of the family, the Governar- 
 dor das Armas, with his staff; the judges and magistrates, and 
 principal public officers, with numerous friends, joined the 
 funeral ceremony. The deep bass voices of the monks in the 
 de profundis, and the occasional strokes of the heavy bell of a 
 neighbourmg convent, heard at intervals during the mournful 
 service, had a profoundly impressive effect. The mass was 
 then performed for the dead at the high altar, and afterwards 
 the corpse was followed by the relatives down into the vaults 
 below the church, where vinegar and quick-lime having been 
 poured upon the body, the falling lids of the coffin were closed 
 and locked, and the key delivered to the chief-mourner, who, 
 according to invariable custom, proceeded immediately from 
 
176 PORTUGAL 
 
 the funeral, with his party of friends who had witnessed the 
 interment take place, to the house of the defunct, where the 
 key being left with the nearest relative, and the complimentary 
 visit being paid, the rite was considered as terminated. 
 
 No fire is lighted in the house of a deceased person upon 
 the day of his funeral, and the relatives, who live in separate 
 houses, are in the habit of supplying a ready-dressed dinner, 
 under the supposition that the inmates are too much absorbed 
 in grief to be equal to giving any orders for the preparation of 
 food. During the course of the ensuing week, the chief 
 mourners receive their several relatives and friends at tea. 
 The assembly is sorrowful and dull. 
 
 We are here at the most unfavourable time possible ; for it is 
 considered that the unhealthy season of the year is from the 
 beginning of July to the end of August. The heat during the 
 day is quite oppressive, though a cold wind prevails on the 
 river, and we have remarked that a chilling sea-fog comes up 
 the Douro every evening at the turn of the tide. These almost 
 hourly variations in the state of the atmosphere have a serious 
 influence upon the health of a stranger ; and, indeed, even the 
 natives seem to be sufferers from the sudden changes. In a 
 country so much addicted, according to report, probably un- 
 founded, to poisoning and assassination, it seems singular that 
 no apothecary is by law allowed to make up a prescription, 
 nor even sell a drug, unless under the authority of a physician, 
 attested by his signature. The prescription of one of our 
 party, which he had brought with him from England, was 
 copied off by the household doctor, and signed by him, before 
 he could procure the medicine which was necessary for his 
 case. 
 
 The windows of the garden front of our host's residence 
 open into a large area, filled with a variety of Brasilian plants, 
 easily distinguished by their gaudy colours ; vines extended on 
 a trellis of considerable length, bearing a profusion of purple 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 177 
 
 bunches; superb lemon-trees, sweet and sour; lime and 
 orange-trees bending under the weight of their golden fruit ; 
 with pear-trees, and apples and plums, and Alpine straw- 
 berries growing in the greatest luxuriance. The Indian cane, 
 with its splendid blossom, whose colour resembles that of the 
 Guernsey, or rather the Chinese lily, is a great addition to the 
 gay ornaments of this earthly paradise. It was delightful 
 during the heat, when it became impossible to mount the steep 
 streets of Porto, to enjoy a lounge under the canopy formed 
 by the vine, impervious as it was to the noontide ray. 
 
 The view of the river to the south was, however, intercepted 
 by a long range of high building, the convent of the black 
 friars ; while to the east the monastery of the Dominicans 
 abutted on the garden, which the windows of friend Domingos' 
 elegantly furnished cell completely overlooked. The taste of 
 the good monk has completely outstripped the filth and mono- 
 tony in which the fraternity generally seem to indulge, and it 
 surprised us to find his chamber of penance and ascetic vir- 
 tue as beautifully decorated as any fashionable lady's boudoir. 
 There can be no doubt but that our excellent brother would 
 exhibit an equal degree of taste in the composition of pulpit 
 discourses, to which duty at stated periods his profession more 
 immediately devotes him ; but the inference has been drawn 
 from his modest forbearance in that particular, that the flowers 
 of poetry and music are much more the natural growth of his 
 mind, than the embellishments of didactic eloquence. 
 
 In Portuguese houses the kitchen is generally situated at 
 the top of the house, so that we are become quite accustomed 
 to the expression which so much astonished us at first, " bring 
 down the dinner," instead of " serve the dinner up." In the 
 houses of the affluent, and in the pubhc offices, a long curtain 
 of blue or red cloth is suspended in general before the door 
 of the principal apartment, to keep off" the currents of cold 
 air ; and the shield of the family arms is embroidered in the 
 Port. " 
 
178 PORTUGAL 
 
 centre. There are only two apartments known in Porto that 
 have folding-doors. According to the laws of primitive hospi- 
 tality, dependants anH beggars are permitted to take their 
 seats in our host's hall, to await the donation of food or money, 
 a privilege which they too often abuse, by stealing up into the 
 apartments, and carrying away whatever they can lay hands 
 upon. Portuguese charity is however proverbial, and no 
 where is it displayed with so much genuine goodness and 
 liberality, as in the Ferraria de baixo, at Porto. The first 
 and last thing given here to an invalid is Caldo de Gallinha ; 
 and upon this preservative composition, which, in native par- 
 lance, is called chicken broth, we have been too happy to 
 maintain our existence during several days of severe indispo- 
 sition. Our hours, as in all hot climates, are early, and the 
 supper appears the principal meal; for then the atmosphere is 
 cooler, the torment of flies less active, and the languor occa- 
 sioned by the heat of the day, is succeeded by an elasticity of 
 spirits. As at Lisbon, so here, boiled beef unsalted is served 
 up with its inseparable adjuncts of ham and tongue, as the 
 rectifiers of insipidity. At Porto again, the state of the 
 churches is so filthy and unwholesome, and the behaviour of 
 the lower orders so indecent, that the better classes are 
 wholly prevented from attending the public performance of 
 divine worship, and are therefore reduced to the necessity of 
 purchasing permission from the Pope to have mass said in 
 their own houses. As the holy sacrament is conveyed from 
 the church through the streets to the chamber of a dying 
 person, all passengers fall on their knees and cross themselves, 
 keeping their eyes fixed upon the ground ; carriages pull up ; 
 the leathern curtains of s6ges are drawn; and strings of 
 muleteers remain uncovered, as long as the sacred procession 
 is in sight. 
 
 We attended divine worship a few days since at the Factory 
 church, which is surrounded by a beautiful garden, one portion 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 179 
 
 of which is reserved for a cemetery. The congregation con- 
 sisted of the most wealthy and respectable merchants in the 
 town, the greater part of whom were English ; and never was 
 the sublime liturgy of our church more devoutly attended to. 
 The peculiar text of the sermon at once awakened our suspi- 
 cions of what the nature of the discourse was to be ; but when 
 we heard it vehemently affirmed that the greater part of the 
 congregation, which was composed, we were aware, of persons 
 exemplary in the performance of all the relative and positive 
 duties of life, were under the sentence of eternal reprobation, 
 and that nothing could save them ; it was a consolation to 
 recollect at the moment the words of an inspired writer, who 
 has assured us, " that God is no respecter of persons , but in 
 every nation he that feareth him, and worketh righteousness, 
 is accepted with him." 
 
 The state of prison discipline here, as elsewhere in Portu- 
 gal, is infamous, and positively tends to the promotion of crime. 
 The several places of imprisonment are crowded, without any 
 classification of offenders being made, and therefore the conta- 
 gion of iniquity is propagated, and minor criminals are tutored 
 for the commission of deeds of greater horror. The open bars 
 of the prison windows allow free communication to subsist 
 between the individuals confined, and their relatives, or asso- 
 ciates in crime. The executive part of the government of this 
 country seems averse from authorising capital punishments ; 
 thus the decrees of the courts of law are quite; nullified, and 
 " liberty piilcks jxistice by the nose." No execution of crimi- 
 nals has taken place in Porto during the last three years, and 
 consequently the prisons are kt this moment filled with auda- 
 cious criminals of every description, robbers and assassins; and 
 so the sword of the law is wrested from the hand of retributive 
 justice. 
 
 The salary of the judges also is so small, and their numbers 
 so great, that they are not elevated by their circumstances 
 
180 PORTUGAL 
 
 above the temptation to bribery and injustice. As one proof 
 of the prevailing sense of Portuguese equity, an instance, which 
 lately occurred here, may be cited. A peaceable individual 
 was walking the other evening in the streets, when a man 
 suddenly pounced upon him, and claimed his coat as his own. 
 The real owner protested that he had worn the coat for years, 
 and that it bore marks of good housewifery in the variety of its 
 patchwork ; but it was to no purpose, for the other declared 
 that he would have the coat, and would expend his last 
 farthing at law in the support of his pretensions to its posses- 
 sion. The garment, therefore, was surrendered, and the ex- 
 penses of a law-suit, with the obligation to bribe the desem- 
 bargadors, were thereby avoided. In another case, a police- 
 officer was engaged by a bribe to assist in a love affair, and 
 jshoot the favoured rival of a discarded lover. The fortunate 
 youth happened to wear spectacles, and faithful to his engage- 
 ment, the officer attempted to destroy every person who passed 
 his hiding-place wearing spectacles ; but accident would so 
 have it, that his gun invariably missed fire. At length his 
 piece went off, and a person wearing glasses fell to the ground; 
 but more under alarm, than from any injury which he re- 
 ceived. The conscience-stricken assassin, however, supposing 
 that he had actually committed murder, hastened to make 
 confession of his crime, and denounce the name of his em- 
 ployer, who found no difficulty in purchasing his impunity for 
 about two hundred thbusand reis, leaving his miserable agent 
 to all the horrors of interminable incarceration. Thus " quite 
 athwart goes all decorum." 
 
 To descend to a lower grade of officers employed by the 
 government, we are informed that an immense quantity of 
 corn is annually smuggled out of Spain down the Douro into 
 Portugal, by bribing the clerks of thefrontier-office to give a 
 certificate of its being of native growth. The import duty on 
 a bushel of corn, consisting of two Alqueires, amounts to rather 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 181 
 
 more than fifteen vintes, or three tosto^ns. Durmg the last 
 year no less than five thousand pipes of wine were exported 
 from the Douro, either to England or Hamburg, without the 
 payment of one rei duty ; and under the same system of in- 
 famous collusion between the dishonest trader and the custom- 
 house officers, of fourteen vessels, which discharged their car- 
 goes of corn at Porto, not one-fourth part paid the customary 
 duties. In either case, the villainous course persevered in, 
 deprives the upright and fair-dealing merchant of forming any 
 just calculations of the probable returns from his ventures in 
 trade. Indeed, the honest man stands but a bad chance in the 
 unequal contest with such unprincipled competitors. English 
 cotton goods are conveyed covertly into Spain, without pay- 
 ment of duty, and purchased with hard dollars. 
 
 We have lately had the pleasure of dining with the mem- 
 bers of the British Factory, at their elegant house in the Rua 
 Nova dos Inglezes. The building is of white granite, and the 
 street elevation, crowned by a handsome pediment, presents a 
 very beautiful facade. The exchange is situated underneath, 
 -but the merchants prefer meeting each other on business in 
 the street, or in the news-room, to which we were immediately 
 admitted on our arrival. The ball-room is the exact size of 
 the Factory chapel, and certainly is a very fine apartment. 
 Our dinner was superb, and we adjourned from the table to 
 another room, en suite with the first, where such a dessert and 
 such wines were served up, as quite to astonish our northern 
 experience. The English merchants continue to hold their 
 social meetings as before ; but politics, during the last year, 
 have put an end to all confidence and friendship among the 
 native Portuguese ; and in fact, so much in fear do they stand 
 of each other, that the freedom of familiar intercourse is wholly 
 suspended. It was flattering to the pride of an Englishman 
 to be at all times addressed, without any reserve, by Portu- 
 
182 PORTUGAL 
 
 guese of all parties. General Sir Thomas Stubbs was of our 
 party, wearing the splendid star and sword conferred upon him 
 by a public vote of the Porto merchants, for his successful de- 
 fence of the town against the marauders, of which the Abso- 
 lutist army consisted. An Englishman by birth, he has hi- 
 therto retained his military rank and appointments, as a natu- 
 ralised Portuguese, and no man is worthier of command than 
 himself. Quiet and reserved in his manners, he has done his 
 duty by the country, as a soldier and faithful servant of the 
 legitimate sovereign ; and though the warm supporter of the 
 constitutional system, he has never been known to mix him- 
 self up with any political intrigues. He has stood altogether 
 aloof from the violence of party feeling, and has entitled him- 
 self to universal respect for the delicacy and forbearance of his 
 conduct \mder the most trying circumstances. Upon the an- 
 niversary of the constitution, which was recently celebrated 
 here by a military parade and other expressions of joy, when 
 a thousand- militia men were manoeuvred, the excitement of 
 the public mind was increased by the intelligence of the war- 
 minister's sudden dismissal from office ; and, but for the Gene- 
 ral's prudence and influence, the peace of the town would 
 have been seriously disturbed. Saldanha had been formerly 
 military governor of Porto, and having given an impulse to the 
 constitutional system, was called from this station to the war 
 ministry. 
 
 From rumours which are in general circulation, it would not 
 appear that the high deserts of the present Governardor das 
 Armas will secure him from the intrigues of the Camarilla, and 
 the faction about the person of the Infanta, whose secret hos- 
 tility to the constitution, no doubt prompted by the bigoted 
 Queen Mother, already begins to exhibit itself in many overt 
 acts of her government. The recal of General Stubbs, and a 
 court martial, are even hinted at, and it may be inferred from 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 183 
 
 the prejudiced character of those who of course will preside at 
 his trial, what degree of justice he is likely to meet with in a 
 court so composed. 
 
 The British Factory at Porto is an association of the resi- 
 dent merchants, who contribute to a public stock, so much 
 upon each pipe of wine, which they ship off to England, for 
 the purpose of giving public entertainments to persons of their 
 own class, and to the Portuguese families of consequence, such 
 as balls in the winter, and occasional dinners at the Factory 
 House. The house was built by public contribution of the 
 wine-merchants, at the time Mr. Whitehead was the British 
 consul at Porto ; but it was impossible that such a body of 
 people, composed of such opposite materials, and among whom 
 ideas and principles were so entirely at variance, could long hold 
 together in the bonds of uninterrupted amity. Accordingly, 
 some persons, moved by spleen, quitted the society abruptly ; 
 some withdrew their names gradually, and would no longer 
 appear as members ; and others were expelled on the ground 
 of unfitness. By degrees, the most considerable of the British 
 merchants appropriated to themselves the entire and exclusive 
 management of the whole concern. Those who retained the 
 superintendence of afiairs, were denominated the " Ins," while 
 the seceders and the rejected, consisting principally of cotton 
 and woollen agents to British manufacturers, were obliged to 
 endure the appellation of " Outs." 
 
 It is much to be questioned whether the memorable factions 
 of the Guelphs and Ghibelines were attended with conse- 
 quences half so important to the state of society, as this dis- 
 ruption between the original members of the Factory at Porto. 
 Suffice it to say that, into however peaceable a state things 
 may have apparently been brought by the exercise of wisdom 
 and philosophy on the losing side of the question, yet the vol- 
 cano of dissent and displeasure is considered to be only slum- 
 bering, and by no means extinguished. The deep murmur- 
 
184 PORTUGAL 
 
 ings of the Outs are sufficiently alarming to caution the Ins, that 
 the fancied security of their present possession of power rests 
 upon ignes suppositos cineri doloso. 
 
 There formerly existed a contribution fund, established by 
 an act of the British parliament, and which arose from the 
 collection of duties levied upon certain articles of merchandise 
 imported from England. The amount was annually expended 
 in maintaining an hospital for the distressed subjects and 
 sailors of England, and part of it went to pay the salary of the 
 Protestant clergyman ; but this act was repealed two years 
 since, in consequence of the British government not succeed- 
 ing in its attempt to allay the violent animosities which conti- 
 nued to rage between the Ins and the Outs, to the inexpres- 
 sible grief of those who preferred the results of tret and tare to 
 the flames of controversy. The clergyman now receives one 
 moiety of his salary from England, and the other from the 
 Protestant residents. The hospital, however, is still supported 
 by the voluntary subscriptions of captains of British vessels. 
 
 It is quite clear that the aristocratic faction has obtained the 
 day in the Factory House ; and if we should be of the number 
 of those who eat the dinners of the Ins, and are disposed from 
 circumstances to commiserate the fate of the Outs, and rather 
 feel an inclination after the factory meal to sympathise with 
 them, we trust that we shall not be accused of a breach of 
 the laws of hospitality, for the freedom of the second class 
 may be rated in value as equal to the power of the Optimates. 
 Besides, as a matter of justice, it should hereby be known to 
 all men, that many native and foreign houses of undeniable 
 respectability, who contributed large sums to the erection of 
 the Factory House, have, in the process, let it not be said with 
 the improvement, of time, been thrown upon their own re- 
 sources by the Ins, as unworthy to continue forming a part of 
 the association. 
 
 Porto includes, within its circuit, twelve convents and five 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 185 
 
 nunneries ; the principal of which are the Serra, upon the 
 other side of the Douro, and situated upon a height above 
 Villa Nova, whence the whole of Porto may be distinctly seen, 
 crowning the northern bank in the form of an amphitheatre, 
 with a long reach of the river both to the east and west. This 
 convent is surrounded by a prodigious extent of ground, which 
 includes a considerable farm, orchards, extensive gardens, a 
 rabbit-warren, and woods, where the monks, who are by their 
 profession strictly confined within the limits of their own 
 demesnes, enjoy the pleasures of the chase in the season. 
 The fraternity is composed of the regular canons of St. 
 Austin. 
 
 There are only fifty professed nuns in the Convent of St. 
 Benedict ; but ladies may retire to its cloister for the sake of 
 seclusion, but who make no vows, and are therefore called 
 seculares, and can leave the establishment at their pleasure. 
 The number at present of its inmates is said to amount to 
 three hundred. It forms an admirable asylum for unprotected 
 females, and much it is to be regretted that institutions, 
 merely for the latter purpose, do not abound in England, 
 where a certain class of females, of good family and limited 
 means, might be received and enjoy the comforts of rational 
 society. There are two nunneries, likewise, of Santa Clara, 
 which follow the rule of St. Francis. 
 
 The Dominican Convent in Porto contains, at present but 
 few members. That of the same order for nuns, in Villa 
 Nova, across the river, includes a larger number of inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 The Franciscan Convent, at the end of the Rua Nova, was 
 built by subscription for the reception of mendicant friars, who 
 are very poor. The French under Soult, as everywhere else, 
 offered every possible indignity to the brotherhood, and 
 shamefully degraded and injured the building. In the church 
 attached to this convent, there is, as you enter, upon the right 
 
18G PORTUGAL 
 
 hand, a little ugly, dwarfish figure of the Saint, which is 
 frequently bathed by the moist salutes of female devotees, 
 who are led in their ecstacies to wash the hands of the beati- 
 fied monk in a basin brought for the purpose, with soap and 
 towel, and either to drink the water off, or preserve it as a 
 holy relic. The origin of this custom was not explained to us. 
 The Saint does not appear, from report, to have left his mantle 
 to his modern disciples, who are rather more distinguished 
 for their gallantries than for the habitual practice of ascetic 
 virtue. 
 
 Besides the conventual buildings already enumerated, we 
 have visited two Capuchin monasteries of reformed Francis- 
 cans ; one Benedictine Convent, inhabited by only three monks, 
 who have no regular revenues ; and two belonging to the Au- 
 gustin order, the one called Grasianos, and the other the Con- 
 vent of the barefooted Augustins. 
 
 The Church of Nossa Senhora da Lapa, in the higher part 
 of Porto, towards the north, behind the large barracks, a 
 modern and handsome Grecian structure, was erected about 
 forty years since by public subscription. There are ten gaudy 
 side altars in the nave, whose columns, as elsewhere, are 
 covered with ex voto oflferings. The high altar, being elevated 
 considerably above the floor of the building, has a grand and 
 imposing appearance. The church is approached by a fine 
 flight of steps, which look immediately over the pretty garden 
 recently made by the soldiers at the back of the barracks, and 
 command a fine view of the town, of the surrounding country, 
 and the Atlantic ocean to the south-west. Near this delight- 
 ful spot, plantations are being laid out, and a public prome- 
 nade is in progress to completion. 
 
 There is a very interesting building situated not far from 
 this church and to the north-west of Porto, which has the 
 character of Moorish architecture, and is still called the Mos- 
 quita, as well as Cedo-feita, or soon made, the origin of which 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 187 
 
 latter name is unknown. It is a church and college, and has 
 a chapter and a choir ; but it is to be presumed that the funds 
 are very small, for the building is in a wretched state of dila- 
 pidation. The arches, however, and the grotesque capitals of 
 the clustered columns, are very interesting, and would seem 
 to correspond with the architectural style of the Saracens. 
 Still it is not, as it appears at first sight, a Moorish, but a 
 Gothic building, as an inscription over the door, and an almost 
 effaced representation in stone of a lamb over the portal of the 
 northern entrance, clearly prove. It was founded by Theodo- 
 mirus, King of the Suevi, in the year 559, subsequently to his 
 baptism, together with that of his son Ariamirus, who both 
 professed the Arian creed. 
 
 The following inscription is copied from a work of Rebello 
 da Costa's, entitled " Descrip^ao da Cidade do Porto," the 
 original being altogether illegible : — • 
 
 Theodomir. Rex glorios, V. erex. et conslrux. hoc Monagt. Can. B. Aug. 
 ad glor. D. et V. M. G. D. et B. Martini et fecit ita solemnit. sacrari ab 
 Lucret. et Brae, et aliis sub J. ill P. M. pridie idus Nov. an. D. dlix. Post, 
 id. Rex in hac Eccles. ab eod. Ep. Palam bapt. et fil. Ariamir. cum Magnat. 
 suis, et omnes conversi ad fid. ob. V. Reg. et mirab. in fil. ex sac. reliq. B. 
 M. a Galiis eo Reg. postul. translatis, et hie asservatis K. Jan. an. D. dlx. 
 Hanc inscript. An. mdlvi. ex pervet. Lapid. transcriptam, ac in Archiv. hujus 
 Ecclesiae invent, opt. Par. Mart, filii posuere ann. mdcclxvii. 
 
 The Church of Senhor de Matozinhos is prettily situated 
 near a little quiet watering-place, about four miles distance 
 from Porto ; which, as a place for summer retreat, seems infi- 
 nitely preferable to San Joao da Foz, which is at the mouth 
 of the Douro, and immediately overlooks the bar. The little 
 town of Leifa is divided by a small river, bearing the same 
 name, from Matozinhos, with which it communicates by a 
 bridge of many arches, "whose needful length bestrides the 
 wintry flood." To the right are seen several salt-pits. In 
 
188 PORTUGAL 
 
 the summer and autumn the gentry of Porto and its neigh- 
 bourhood resort hither for the sake of sea-bathing, and during 
 that time the place is lively and agreeable. 
 
 About Whitsuntide an annual feast is held at Matozinhos, 
 to which peasants come from leagues round out of the country, 
 and frequently to the number of thirty thousand, to accom- 
 plish their intended devotions. Accordingly, the display of 
 ex-voto tablets is unusually great ; and indeed, a detached 
 chapel, to the right and south of the church, is exclusively 
 reserved for their reception. It is consequently filled with 
 votive offerings of every possible description and denomination 
 to " O Bom Jesus de Bou(fas," a place not far off. Ships of 
 all sizes, and waxen representations of the different members 
 of the body, vowed to Senhor de Matozinhos by mariners in 
 the moment of peril, and frequently a large sail, are brought 
 hither in solemn procession by seamen, which latter may be 
 redeemed by money. In this little chapel there is a weighing 
 machine, which enables the devotee to fulfil, with scrupulous 
 accuracy, his vow of giving to the church as many measures 
 of corn as he may weigh pounds. 
 
 The interior of the building is on a grand scale, and the 
 choir and high altar are both richly gilt and adorned with a 
 profusion of gaudy carving. Among the ceremonies observed 
 here by the pilgrims at Whitsuntide, is the going round the 
 church so many times on their knees, and repeating so many 
 Pater-nosters and so many Ave-Marias according to the num- 
 ber of sins which they have come to wipe off upon the occa- 
 sion ; for such penances as these the Romish church is inte- 
 rested in making, to supersede the religion of the head and 
 the heart, and to supply the place of practical piety by super- 
 stitious and degrading customs, so that the confessional system 
 may be a never-failing source of profit for the coffers of its 
 priesthood. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 189 
 
 Mr. Southey treats this subject in so judicious a manner, 
 that it is impossible to refrain from quoting his own most ap- 
 posite words, in illustration of the preceding remarks : — 
 
 " It is urged in favour of confession, that, by its practice, 
 weak minds may be saved from that despair of salvation 
 which makes them abandon themselves to the prospect of an 
 eternity of wretchedness. Yet surely it is a bad way to 
 remedy one superstitious opinion by establishing another; 
 and if reason cannot eradicate this belief, neither can super- 
 stition ; for weak minds always most believe what they most 
 fear. The evil introduced, too, is worse than that which it is 
 intended to supplant. The belief of reprobation must be 
 necessarily confined to those of gloomy tenets ; and among 
 those, to the few who are predisposed to it by an habitual 
 gloom of character. But the opinion of this forgiving power 
 vested in the church, will, among the mob of mankind, destroy 
 the motives to virtue, by eradicating all dread of the conse- 
 quences of vice. It subjects every individual to that worst 
 slavery of the mind, and establishes an inquisitorial power in 
 the e<iclesiastics, who, in proportion as they are esteemed for 
 the supposed sanctity of their profession, will be found less 
 anxious to obtain esteem by deserving it. Beyond all doubt, 
 the frequency of assassination in all Catholic countries is 
 greatly to be attributed to this belief in the absolving power 
 of the church." 
 
 The cross of Senhor de Matozinhos is fabled to have been 
 found on the sea-shore, with one arm of the figure wanting, 
 and to have been in the first instance carried to the little 
 church at Boufas, whence the designation, " O Bom Jesus 
 deBoufas;" and thence transferred, with solemn ceremony, 
 to that of Matozinhos, as the place of greater honour. It so 
 happened that, fifty years afterwards, an old woman picked 
 up a piece of wood on the contiguous sands, which she at- 
 tempted in vain to cut up or burn, as it always eluded the 
 
190 PORTUGAL 
 
 blow or the fire by jumping away of its own accord. At last, 
 some candid and disinterested priest, unwilling to let slip the 
 opportunity of serving the interests of his church by further- 
 ing the imposition, pretended to discover that this log of wood 
 was nothing less than the very identical arm which was want- 
 ing to the image, and accordingly, with singular pomp of 
 circumstance, it was re-united to its kindred frame. What is 
 still more remarkable in the history of this very singular cross, 
 is, that, according to the dates furnished us by the sacristan, 
 it must have made its way into the country long before the 
 establishment of the Christian faith in Portugal. A suggestion 
 was thrown out that possibly this cross of Matozinhos was 
 actually formed from a branch of the tree of knowledge ; but 
 as the occurrence of the deluge seemed to overwhelm that 
 supposition, it did not obtain from us that degree of credit 
 which, no doubt, the felicitous notion merited ; for difficulties 
 in the Romish church are easily got over. 
 
 The Papist, by his own admission, when truly " repre- 
 sented," "believes it good and lawful to keep with venera- 
 tion, and give a religious honour and respect to, rotten bones, 
 old rags, and shrines ; such as the Jews showed to the ark, to 
 the tables of the law, to Moses's rod, and to the Temple ;" 
 and this belief is perfectly consistent with two articles con- 
 tained in the creed of Pope Pius IV., which thus profess : — ■ 
 " I do also believe that the saints, who reign with Christ, are 
 to be worshipped and prayed unto ; and that they do pray for 
 us ; and that their relics are to be venerated." And again : — 
 "I most firmly assert that the images of Christ, and of the 
 Mother of God, who was always a virgin, and of the othei* 
 saints, are to be had and retained, and that due honour and 
 worship is to be given to them." But if the Romish priests 
 attempt to defend their idolatrous practices by reference to 
 Jewish customs, they should not forget that " there was 
 no similitude" of God "in Horeb;" and that a sovereign- of 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 191 
 
 Judah, who " did that which was right in the sight of the 
 Lord, removed the high places, and brake the images, and cut 
 down the groves ; and brake in pieces the brazen serpent 
 that Moses had made ; for unto those days the children of 
 Israel did burn incense to it ;" — nor that command of the 
 Almighty by the mouth of his inspired messenger, " Look 
 unto me, saith the Lord, and be ye saved all the ends of the 
 earth, for I am God, and there is none else." But, as Mr. 
 Southey with so much truth and point observes, the Romish 
 priests and " friars tempt in the day of poverty ; they terrify 
 on the bed of sickness ; they persecute in the hour of death ; 
 and if they find a man senseless in his last agonies, they 
 place an image, a. crucifix, and a candle in his hand, and 
 so smuggle him under false colours into the kingdom of 
 heaven." 
 
 The ringing and tolling of bells is as eternal at Porto as at 
 Lisbon. The Church of the Clerigos, which has a very lofty 
 steeple, had once been injured by lightning, and in consequence 
 a solemn assembly of the congregation met to decide whether, 
 in order to secure it from further injury, it would be more 
 advisable to afiix a conductor to the structure, or to light a lamp 
 every night to Santa Barbara, the patroness of the church ; 
 when the latter proposition, embodying rather more of piety 
 than philosophy perhaps, was unanimously adopted as the 
 best protection against the effects of lightning, and is continued 
 to this day. 
 
 The floors of the churches in Portugal are generally divided 
 into so many oblong squares, into which are fitted trap-doors 
 of wood, which are easily raised. They overlay the ordinary 
 places of separate interment, and are very frequently, after 
 the burial of an individual, covered with a piece of black cloth, 
 which is rudely nailed on, as a testimony of mourning. 
 
 We have lately attended the celebration of the Te Deum,, 
 in honour of the anniversary of the constitution, in the Church 
 
192 PORTUGAL 
 
 of San Bento, which is one of the largest and handsomest 
 ecclesiastical structures in Porto. The ceremony was attended 
 by the military governor, the nobility, soldiery, and populace, 
 not to omit mention of that fine body of men, the brave militia 
 of the town. 
 
 Porto, from its position on the breast of a long line of hill, 
 * whose base is swept by the waters of the Douro, may be 
 divided into the high and the low town. It contains, in a 
 civil sense, five wards, or bairros, of which the S6, or cathe- 
 dral hill, and the Vittoria, or height opposite to the S6, and 
 crowned by a church, which was founded in commemoration 
 of a celebrated battle fought on the spot with the Moors, 
 which terminated in their defeat and expulsion from the place, 
 form the town properly called Porto ; and it is possible still to 
 trace the remains of the old wall, thirty feet high, which 
 formerly surrounded and defended the place. The three 
 other quarters, San Idelfonso, Miragaya, and Villa Nova, are 
 open. The latter comprises Gay a and Cabeifudo, and is 
 situated upon the southern bank of the Douro, being con- 
 nected with the principal town by a bridge of boats, which is 
 so badly constructed as to be scarcely able to sustain the 
 violent power of the Douro when swelled by winter torrents. 
 The course of this river is about one hundred and fifty leagues 
 in length ; it traverses a line of country more elevated than 
 any in Europe, and forms numerous windings amidst a variety 
 of scenery, — at one time running through plains remarkable 
 for their fertility, and at others forcing a difl&cult passage 
 through opposing rocks, whose height and grandeur astonish 
 the traveller. Like the Rhine and Rhone, and all other rivers 
 which flow through a rocky and often confined channel, the 
 Douro commits at certain seasons the greatest ravages ; and 
 property to a considerable amount is annually lost at Porto, 
 by the irresistible force with which the river pours down and 
 carries everything before it. A bridge of granite has been 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 193 
 
 talked of to connect Villa Nova and Porto, but the funds are 
 not yet forthcoming, and the expense will be considerable. 
 The population of Porto may amount to eighty thousand 
 souls. 
 
 In the Church of Nossa Senhora da Gra^a, there is an altar 
 dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Conceifao da Rocha, whose 
 image has been set up for worship by a fidalgo of the place, 
 and which is as much honoured as her prototype at Lisbon in 
 the cathedral, with. primiti£e of wheat, coffins, grave-clothes and 
 soldiers' uniforms, gold chains, wreaths of flowers, letters, 
 eyes, vintin and crusado pieces, diamond necklaces, silver 
 candlesticks, heads, arms, and legs, and the trunk of the 
 human figure. Senhor Joz6 has suspended near the altar a 
 votive tablet to our gracious Lady, which represents him in 
 the act of falling down a flight of steps, to the bottom of 
 which, through the miraculous interference of Senhora da 
 Rocha, he arrived with whole limbs. Another votive picture 
 represents a youth on his knees before an appearance of the 
 Virgin, who is standing in the centre of a crescent, fixed upon 
 the globe, and who was pleased to save him from the necessity 
 of any longer employing physicians, by herself miraculously 
 delivering him from the affliction of rheumatism. But the 
 most infamous part of the delusion is the letter system ; for 
 the altar is made, through the corruption of the attendants, 
 a regular channel of communication between persons who 
 may not yet have arrived at personal interviews, and thus 
 eonnectibns take place which would never otherwise have 
 been formed. 
 
 The number of monks in Porto and in the neighbouring con- 
 vents is said to be 5000; and this very possibly is the truth. 
 The severity of monastic discipline is now so far relaxed, that 
 the brethren not only leave their convents at pleasure, but 
 many of them actually reside altbgether, or at least pass the 
 greater part of their time, with their relatives and friends. 
 Port. N 
 
194 PORTUGAL 
 
 The feast of Nossa Senhora da Concei^ao da Rocha lately 
 took place in Porto, and a brief narrative of the wretched ab- 
 surdities practised on the occasion, which surely must be dis- 
 gusting and painful to liberal and enlightened Catholics, will 
 give you a further insight into the abuses with which the 
 Romish priesthood have here degraded the character of their 
 faith. A Protestant observer must have his spirit stirred in him, 
 when he sees a city thus wholly given up to idolatry ; when 
 he discovers a people, who are worthy of better instruction, in 
 all things too superstitious, and in their devotions worshipping 
 " God ignorantly." When the people are kept in ignorance of 
 the right principles of their belief, it is easy to conceive how 
 they are deceived in the notions which they are directed to 
 form of the Godhead. 
 
 This feast, of which a description was to be given, was 
 announced on the previous night by a grand display of fire- 
 works and an extensive illumination. From the top of the ' 
 stone cross above the church, the priests had contrived to 
 make a fiery dove, representing the third person of the Trinity, 
 suddenly descend upon a castle composed of rockets and other 
 combustibles, and ignite them. They instantly took fire, and 
 the deluded multitude seemed to rejoice in this shameful fami- 
 liarity with the Divine Spirit. The forms and ceremonies of 
 the Romish church, thus addressing the senses and the weak 
 imaginations of the ignorant vulgar, render the attendance 
 upon them more a matter of pleasure and relaxation than the 
 performance of a solemn and important duty, or an act of pure 
 worship. 
 
 Early on the following morning, the neighbouring peasantry 
 began to arrive in great numbers with their ex votos, and, ap- 
 proaching the entrance of the church, fell instantly upon their 
 knees, and so crept along the earth with the wax offerings in 
 their hands to the altar where the image is enshrined. The 
 most opulent among the pilgrims presented gold chains and 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 195 
 
 rings of considerable value ; and the total amount of gold 
 given to the image on the occasion, may be estimated in 
 weight at thirty pounds, and of money in different coins, re- 
 ceived in a silver dish, nearly one hundred pounds sterling. 
 The ceremony of the service was, as is usual, performed with 
 great pomp and noise. The patron fidalgo was observed to 
 assist with exemplary devotion. The sermon, delivered by a 
 friar on the occasion, was replete with bombast and nonsense 
 about the miraculous powers of the image, in order to impose 
 upon the multitude, and attract their attachment to its shrine. 
 The exhibition of wax legs, eyes, arms, hands, breasts, and 
 other parts of the body, received a very considerable addition 
 after the ceremonies had been concluded. 
 
 We ascended the other day to the S6, or Cathedral, passing 
 up the street which is occupied by the tripe-makers and pre- 
 parers of bladders, the powerful effects of whose filthy occupa- 
 tion was rather too much for olfactory nerves of ordinary sen- 
 sibility. A young ecclesiastic, of very great merit and learn- 
 ing, was good enough to accompany us to the Archbishop's 
 Palace, a large building, but incomplete, and kept with the 
 national attention to cleanliness. The name of the venerable 
 bishop is Joao de Magalhaes e Avellar. He was formerly a 
 professor at Coimbra, and is reported to be extremely learned, 
 and to possess a library of thirty thousand volumes, for the 
 enjoyment of which he lives wholly secluded from society, for- 
 getting too his episcopal duties. The consequence is, that the 
 conduct of the clergy in his diocese is profligate in the ex- 
 treme. He has had possession of his mitre during ten years, 
 but has not once held a confirmation ; still the Romish sacra- 
 ment of confirmation is put on a level in that church, it would 
 appear, with marriage and ordination, which are left to the 
 option of individuals. 
 
 The young priest, in whom all the virtues of his aged rela- 
 tive and predecessor in a dignified ofiice, shine conspicuously. 
 
196 PORTUGAL 
 
 next took us to the Cathedral, where in a side chapel we 
 were shown the altar of wrought silver, which, by some for- 
 tunate accident, was rescued from the hands of the French 
 when in possession of Porto. There is nothing particularly 
 worthy of note in the S6 ; but the Jesuits' college and chapel 
 contiguous, now in the occupation of Augustine friars, are at 
 all events deserving of a visit, for they are maintained in great 
 neatness. Convents are found in cities and in the country, 
 whilst monasteries are confined exclusively to the latter. The 
 habitations of the monks in towns are called hospicios. 
 
 We are told that great reforms are contemplated by the 
 Cortes in the ecclesiastical, monastic, political, criminal, and 
 commercial systems, which at present are allowed to exist in 
 the country; but it is quite clear that the legislative govern- 
 ment, considering the state of diflferent parties, Corcundas, 
 Fidalgos, and Constitutionalists, and, above all, the jealousy 
 of the Holy Alliance, and the secret enmity of Spain against 
 free and enlightened institutions, must proceed slowly and 
 cautiously in the great work of national improvement. Prizes 
 have lately been proposed for the best codes, which are to be 
 presented to the judges during the ensuing year. 
 
 A change in the monastic system, with the view of unlocking 
 vast means and resources for the benefit of the nation, is very 
 desirable, and in fact is earnestly wished for by the enlight- 
 ened classes. The attention of the Cortes has already been 
 seriously directed to this subject. It involves, however, great 
 and numerous difficulties, affecting, as the question does, a 
 large extent of vested interests and personal rights, and as 
 striking at the most inveterate of the popular prejudices. The 
 best system of reform would certainly commence with the 
 progressive suppression of the friars, which might be easily 
 effected by prohibiting the further increase of their numbers 
 from fresh admissions of members into the several orders. By 
 the gradual extinction of this class, immense estates would be 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 197 
 
 released from useless occupation, which might be applied to the 
 endowment of public schools, and to increasing the value of the 
 regular country cures. The public morals would thus be large- 
 ly benefited, and a better race of people would be produced. 
 
 The Portuguese are easy of controul, and, being naturally 
 of quick apprehensions, only require to be shown the path to 
 civihzation and a purer religion ; but as long as the influence 
 of the friars, and the clergy, dependent upon the friars, which 
 is now universally the case, is allowed to be exercised over 
 the people, neither liberty nor any sort of improvement can be 
 expected to take place. 
 
 Should the existing establishments, ecclesiastical and mo- 
 nastic, be submitted to a wise and wholesome reform, religion 
 would become a great gainer. If the attempt at renova- 
 tion, too, is confided to persons of liberal, enlightened, and 
 moderate views, who may be sincerely pious and tinctured 
 by no prejudices, it must certainly be crowned with success. 
 The prejudices of the unenlightened multitude, however, who 
 are as ignorant of the contents of the sacred volume as the 
 Hindoo, or the native African or the North American Indian, 
 should be managed with the utmost possible discretion and 
 tenderness. With the almost imperceptible removal of sense- 
 less and obsolete customs, which have served to degrade 
 and debase the national character, the spirit of the Romish 
 faith need not be destroyed. It would be lamentable, indeed, 
 that, in the proposed amelioration of old forms and antiquated 
 errors, the characteristic piety and devotion of the Portuguese 
 should be made shipwreck of by the introduction of revolu- 
 tionary principles, as we have experienced in France, where 
 the widely-sweeping torrent of atheism directed its gigantic 
 force against the temples, the ministers, and the tenets of the 
 Christian creed. 
 
 With the exception of the Romish catechism, and a few 
 tales of saints, fabricated by the monks, the Portuguese pea- 
 
198 PORTUGAL 
 
 santry have in their possession no religious books whatever, 
 much less the New Testament, wholly or partially ; and of 
 the ancient scriptures, to which their priesthood refer for au- 
 thority in the case of many of their rites and ceremonies, the 
 people at large know no more than of the Koran. It is only 
 in the season of Lent, or upon holy days, that any public 
 address is made on the subject of religion. To say that the 
 Scriptures are expounded upon those occasions would be 
 incorrect ; for when a discourse is delivered, the usual topics 
 selected by the preacher are the supererogatory virtues, the 
 miracles and apotheosis of the saint of the day. The class of 
 Dominican monks are especially appointed to the duties of 
 preaching. 
 
 The difference to be observed between the Portuguese and 
 English Catholic, is as great as the distinction existing be- 
 tween the national character of the natives of either country. 
 All the care taken in the primary schools about inculcating 
 the principles of religion, consists in making the children ac- 
 quainted with the Romish form of catechism, so that the cate- 
 chumenists may be able to answer the questions put to them 
 once a year in Lent by their confessors. This is done in the 
 same methodical way, as the queries and answers are arranged 
 in the book ; and as may be supposed, no advantage whatever 
 is derived from the process. The poor children commit with 
 great difficulty a few sentences to memory, like parrots ; but 
 beyond this no pains are taken to enlighten their understand- 
 ings, or to imbue their minds with the spiritual knowledge of 
 Christianity. Prayers at night, reckoned by the beads of the 
 rosary, form the next obligation, a mechanical habit of repeat- 
 ing which is acquired by the children, and without mistake 
 even, while they are asleep. The next duty imposed upon 
 them, is to hear mass on Sundays ; and provided the injunction 
 be complied with, it matters little how it is performed. With 
 principles like these, infused at an early period of life into 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 19!) 
 
 their minds, the people regard religion, not as if they consi- 
 dered it the best gift of heaven, and calculated to promote 
 their own temporal and eternal interests, but as if they felt 
 obliged to comply merely with the ceremonial practices en- 
 joined by the priests, and were only anxious to avoid incurring 
 the displeasure of their confessors. 
 
 When the Constitution of 1820 took place, a great deal of 
 light was let in upon the public mind, in a variety of matters ; 
 but such was the benighted condition of the people, that 
 religion gained but little by the change. Too many who were 
 warm friends to the system of reform, began to question the 
 necessity of religion at all, and to point their sarcastic remarks 
 against the discrepancy discoverable between its precepts and 
 the lives of its professors, which were admitted to be univer- 
 sally bad. The effect of these scandals has been to chill the 
 feelings of respect among a large portion of the rising genera- 
 tion for the principles of the Christian faith ; and as mankind 
 are ever more prone to follow evil than good, so, many of the 
 Portuguese youth have proceeded from ignorance to doubt, 
 from doubt to immorality, and to a state bordering upon un- 
 belief. How much further this baneful influence will proceed, 
 it is impossible to predict ; but there can be no question that 
 the most serious results will ensue, unless a very speedy 
 reform takes place among the clergy, and unless the useless 
 convents are abolished. Did the monasteries, as has been 
 properly remarked, serve only as the retreats of deserted age, 
 of disappointment and sorrow, we should find little, perhaps 
 nothing, to condemn in the system ; but at present these build- 
 ings, with few exceptions, are the receptacles of idleness and 
 vice. The entire and sudden abolition, however, of the convents 
 is not to be expected, perhaps even not to be desired, in a country 
 whose inhabitants are so blindly and zealously addicted to the 
 Romish faith ; but some improvements, which should advance 
 step by step, are absolutely required, and indeed, as we have 
 already remarked, are contemplated by the Cortes. The pro- 
 
200 PORTUGAL 
 
 posed ameliorations, if entered upon with prudence and mode- 
 ration, and conducted with a firm and equal hand, would, we 
 repeat, contribute much to the renovation of the country, and 
 would still leave the sovereigns of Portugal in the undisputed 
 possession of their purchased title of Most Faithful Majesty. 
 
 During the last Cortes, in 1821, a bull was obtained from 
 the Pope to dispense with the prescribed abstinence from meat 
 during Lent, and on fast days in general, in consequence of the 
 extreme scarcity and dearness of olive oil, hitherto abundantly 
 used in the preparation of fish and vegetables for the dinner- 
 table. The faithful were placed by this papistical letter under 
 the obligation of performing certain acts of penance and mor- 
 tification, in order to supply the place of fish and vegetables in 
 curbing the impetuosity of appetite. Many bigoted bishops 
 spoke vehemently against the pretexts on which this bull had 
 been petitioned for and granted. In order also to make the 
 Constitutional system appear odious and unwarrantable by the 
 gospel precepts, they represented to their flocks that the mo- 
 tives which had led to the solicitation for this ecclesiastical 
 favour, were connected with the evil politics of the times ; and 
 that the operation of the bull, if allowed, would prove injurious 
 to religion. In fact, it did prove highly detrimental to the 
 episcopal interests, for people very soon began to avail them- 
 selves of the general exemption, without making appHcation 
 for it with money to the ordinary authorities of the church- 
 A complete change has subsequently taken place in the po- 
 pular view of the question, and a considerable relaxation of 
 the old established rule of faith in this particular has conse- 
 quently been admitted. 
 
 Several years since the Pope issued a bull authorising the 
 use in Lent of eggs, butter, and similar trifles, in addition to 
 certain indulgences, and exoneration from temporal fasts, pe- 
 nances, and other religious exercises, the public sale of which 
 produced considerable sums to the papal treasury, These im- 
 posts vary in amount, according to the wealth of individuals ; 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 201 
 
 but every person is obliged, under pain of excommunication, 
 to purchase one of the dispensations, the least being sold at 
 forty reis, that is, about twopence ; while the highest may be 
 procured for three hundred reis, or something under two 
 shillings. Although the amount extracted from the pociets 
 of the faithful by the vent of these indulgences must be con- 
 siderable, it is supposed, notwithstanding, that the collectors or 
 treasurers do not remit more than one third of the total re- 
 ceived, to the papal treasury. In addition to the general 
 produce of the bull, a large sum is annually obtained by the 
 sale of permissions for domestic oratories in private houses, 
 where families may prefer to have the mass said under their 
 own roof, to the inconvenience and annoyance of attending 
 public worship in the churches. Another fruitful source of 
 profit to the papal government is the annual sale of formal 
 licenses for people to contract marriages, who would be 
 otherwise prevented from marrying by their degrees of affinity. 
 The fees paid for these papal concessions, are in proportion to 
 the circumstances of individuals, which are well noted down 
 by the Pope's agents appointed for the purpose. Where the 
 parties proposing to marry enjoy considerable wealth, the dis- 
 pensations cost from two to three hundred pounds. 
 
 In a conversation a few days since with a mercantile friend, 
 a Portuguese Catholic, who has not a shadow of prejudice on 
 his mind, and to whom for information upon all subjects, reli- 
 gious, political, commercial, and agricultural, it is with plea- 
 sure that we profess ourselves deeply indebted ; the following 
 remark was made with reference to the subject of papal indul- 
 gences : " When such an abundance of graces are bought with 
 money, may we not hope that a time will come, and the 
 sooner the better, when Heaven itself will be purchased by 
 other and better means for the greatest of sinners ? I hope so, 
 for if it does not come to be so, I am sure I do not know what 
 will become of me for not believing in the efficacy of these 
 
202 PORTUGAL 
 
 bounteous graces of the See of Rome." The answer returned 
 to our young friend's observation must be obvious. 
 
 In any attempt, however, to introduce a purer system of 
 religious practice among the unenlightened Catholics of Por- 
 tugal, whenever it may be sanctioned by the ruling authorities, 
 it will be necessary, we repeat again, that the utmost possible 
 discretion and tenderness should be shown towards the pre- 
 vailing prejudices, and that they should be touched by a very 
 gentle hand, for the attachment borne to the system esta- 
 blished is still inveterate among the great body of the people. 
 The wisest and most prudent legislator might fail in the 
 undertaking ; but it is to be hoped, whenever the Cortes shall 
 prescribe a change in the national forms of religion, that it will 
 enforce its decrees in the first instance upon the parochial 
 clergy, as the natural and most efficient co-operators in the 
 holy work, and ordain a judicious circulation of the Scriptures 
 by their hands, among their respective flocks. An affair of 
 such importance should not be entrusted to intemperate and 
 inexperienced hands. Presiding over the immediate direc- 
 tion, and controlling at each step the progressive improvement 
 proposed, the clergy would themselves rise in the scale of 
 intellect and morals ; would keep strong hold of their present 
 influence over the minds of their parishioners, and reap a large 
 harvest of satisfaction from contributing to the improvement of 
 the Portuguese character, and to their independence in matters 
 of religion from the thraldom of irrational and debasing super- 
 stitions. 
 
 It will be for the clergy of Portugal to give effect to the 
 foresight and wisdom of the government, in softening and pre- 
 paring the public mind for some moderate and wholesome 
 reform in the present devotional system. That some alteration 
 in the formula and external features of the national mode of 
 worship is indispensable, seems to be admitted by all the en- 
 lightened classes. Nothing can be worse than the present 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 203 
 
 system in every respect. It is said that there is a great deal 
 of learning confined to the walls of the convents, and that the 
 secular clergy are far better informed and conducted than 
 some people represent them. Without at all disputing the 
 possibility of either assertion being true, a Protestant w^ould 
 demand the public developement of that knowledge, and the 
 display of those purer morals for the benefit of the many ; and 
 he would endeavour to persuade the Catholic that the temporal 
 and spiritual condition of a country can never be advanced but 
 by the circulation of the Bible, and by the wide diffusion of 
 religious knowledge. The ministers of religion are responsible 
 for the faithful performance of the most important and the 
 most awful duty — the instruction of the people. 
 
 A Protestant would rejoice to hear that the good sense of 
 the nation had induced it to advance one step beyond the 
 merely closing the doors of the Inquisition, and taking the 
 iron sceptre of persecution from the hands of its bloody minis- 
 ters, to the extinction of " those fires of purgatory, which," as 
 Southey quotes from Manoel de Abreu, " boil the caldrons of 
 so many friars." There is one convent at Lisbon, that enjoys, 
 according to the same authority, a considerable revenue in 
 behalf of the dead, and which entrusts the performance of pur- 
 gatorial masses to ecclesiastical agents in the country, who do 
 the business by commission at a cheaper rate. In fact, the 
 principal charities both of Spain and Portugal are lavished, it 
 has been frequently remarked, on churches and convents, for 
 masses to be said to relieve the souls in purgatory. The 
 Catholic in these countries, as Mr. Southey observes, can 
 scarcely lift up his eyes without beholding a soul surrounded 
 with flames, pictured on tiles upon the walls and houses, and 
 road-side altars ; and the men who beg for masses for souls, 
 carry with them boards, whereon the same spectacle is exhi- 
 bited in glowing colours. The souls in purgatory are farmed 
 out like the tithes and turnpikes in England. Again, what 
 can be more objectionable in the whole Romish system than 
 
204 
 
 PORTUGAL 
 
 the constrained celibacy of the clergy ? Every duty and ob- 
 servance imposed upon ecclesiastics, but those compatible with 
 their characters as men, is a grievance and an absurdity ; and 
 as to the influence of the clergy at court, Costigan says most 
 truly, " that the ministers of the Catholic church ought not to 
 assume so extensive a part in the political drama ; for, in so 
 doing, they must neglect their own proper functions and sacred 
 vocation." 
 
 After all, however, you will perhaps inquire in the metrical 
 language of Akenside — 
 
 What force could thus subdue 
 The vulgar and the great combined ? 
 Could war with sacred folly wage ? 
 Could a whole nation disengage 
 From the dread bonds of many an age, 
 And to new habits mould the public mind ? 
 
 Still at all events let the attempt be made, and may it be 
 crowned with success ! 
 
 EX VOTOS, AS SEEN SUSPENDED IN THE CHURCHES 
 OF PORTUGAL. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 205 
 
 LETTER VIII. 
 
 Such is the patriot's boast, where'er we roam, 
 His first, best country, ever is at home. 
 And yet, perhaps, if countries we compare. 
 And estimate the blessings which they share, 
 Though patriots flatter, still shall wisdom find 
 An equal portion dealt to all mankind : 
 As different good, by art, or nature given. 
 To different nations makes their blessings even. 
 
 Goldsmith's Traveller. 
 
 Porto, 1827. 
 The quarters of the city usually frequented by those who 
 delight in the evening promenade, when the violence of the 
 sun has abated, are the Pra^a Nova, which has within these 
 few years received the name of the Place of the Constitution; — 
 the Campo da Cordoaria, whose triple avenue of fine trees 
 affords a refreshing shade for pedestrians; — the Pra^a dos 
 Ferradores ; — the Campo de Santo Ovidio, and San Lazaro ; — 
 the Terreiro de San Domingos; — the Praja de San Bento, 
 and da Ribeira; — the Largo de Miragaya; the Campo da 
 Batalha ; — and the Fontinhas to the east above the theatre. 
 In addition to these promenades in the city, the Massarellos, 
 a walk which runs along the right bank of the Douro, at 
 about half distance from Porto to the mouth of the river, is 
 much frequented, and particularly on Sundays. 
 
206 PORTUGAL 
 
 Besides the S6, or cathedral, and the church dos Clerigos, 
 whose steeple is the loftiest in Portugal after that of Mafra, 
 we have visited Nossa Senhora da Lapa, which is situated 
 behind the place of Santo Ovidio ; the churches also of the 
 Bentos, Congregados, San Joa5 Novo, the Grilos, San Do- 
 mingos, the Franciscanos, and the Carmelitas Descalfos, or 
 barefooted Carmelites. 
 
 The original cathedral of Porto was situated on the other 
 side of the Douro in the earliest ages of Christianity, and the 
 remains of this building may still be seen on the Gaya hill, 
 whither the canons of the present S6 were accustomed to go 
 annually in solemn procession upou the day of the invocation 
 of St. Mark, in commemoration of the site. A bull of the 
 Pope, obtained about three years since, has released them 
 from this obligation ; and at present, therefore, the procession 
 advances no farther than to the convent of San Joao Novo, si- 
 tuated at the bottom of the street, which looks across the river 
 to the precise spot where the former building stood. 
 
 Porto is divided into ten parishes, — the S^ or cathedral, 
 San Nicola6, and Victoria, entre muros, forming the quarters 
 of the S6 and Victoria; — those of San Idelfonso and Campan- 
 ham, which form the municipal division of San Idelfonso; — 
 the three parishes of San Pedro, Boa Viagem, and Cedo-feita, 
 which are included in the ward of Miragaya ; and Santa Ma- 
 rinha, and San Christovao de Mafamede, which are comprised 
 within the Bairro of Villa Nova. 
 
 Among the public buildings of the town most worthy of a 
 traveller's attention, we have found the Senado da Relaif^o, or 
 court-house of appeal, to which the prisons are attached; — the 
 Senado da Camera, or municipal residence ; the Royal Hos- 
 pital, of which scarcely a fourth part is completed ; the Epis- 
 copal Palace, where we have already remarked the unfinished 
 state of the building, and have now to add the filthy condition 
 of a noble staircase which leads up to the principal apart- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 207 
 
 ments ; the large storehouses, in which the wines of the Royal 
 company of the culture of the vine in the Upper Douro (Real 
 Companhia da Cultura das Vinhas do Alto Douro) are depo- 
 sited ; the English Factory House already described ; the 
 Casa pia ; and the theatre of San Joao, the second establish- 
 ment of the kind in Portugal, which was built towards the 
 end of the last century, after the model of that in Lisbon, but 
 on smaller proportions, by Mazoneschi, who was celebrated 
 also for his drawings in water-colours. Representations of 
 the best Portuguese and Italian pieces are given alternately 
 here. 
 
 Female performers resumed, it may be remarked, their ap- 
 pearance on the stage of this theatre long before the royal con- 
 cession of the same favour was obtained for them at Lisbon. It 
 is a fine handsome building, with four tiers of boxes, the royal 
 box occupying, as at Lisbon, the centre of the house. A few 
 evenings since we attended the representation of II Barbiere 
 di Seviglia ; but it was wretchedly performed, and the Prima 
 Donna was a fat vulgar woman of forty, without any preten- 
 sions to voice. In fact, this favourite opera was completely bur- 
 lesqued, and as the Portuguese here never dress for dramatic 
 performances, the assemblage of people had a slovenly appear- 
 ance. There were twenty-five instrumental performers in the 
 orchestra, and upon the whole the music was tolerably good ; 
 and in the ballet, which was remarkable in no other respect, 
 eight horses were introduced, whose evolutions we found suf- 
 ficiently amusing. 
 
 What would the fashionables of our own metropolis say to 
 the taste of the day at Porto, where gentlemen's carriages 
 are frequently dragged up the steep and almost precipitous 
 streets by a yoke of oxen to the opera-house ! The custom 
 is said to have priginated in necessity, when the French laid 
 military requisition upon all the fidalgos' and wealthy persons' 
 horses, and thus reduced them to the employment of this 
 
208 PORTUGAL 
 
 Smithfield rather than Newmarket team. The oxen at Porto 
 are smaller than those at Lisbon, which are remarkably fine ; 
 but it is surprising to see what heavy loads of timber and other 
 things these little, neat animals draw up the steep streets of 
 this town. 
 
 Whilst upon the subject of II Barbiere, it may be important 
 to observe that the old barber's basin, whose form so well 
 adorned the military brows of Don Quixote, is in universal 
 use throughout Portugal ; and that the lather of soap is rubbed 
 on the face by the hand of the artificer, who, to judge from 
 the instances which we have witnessed, seldom concludes the 
 rough operation without eliciting the copious tears of his 
 unfortunate victim, thus compelled to make an hebdomadal 
 sacrifice to personal appearance. The home-manufactured 
 razors are no better than rusty pieces of hoop iron ; nothing 
 can exceed the clumsiness of carpenters', upholsterers', and 
 locksmiths' tools ; and indeed the same may be asserted of the 
 productions of all their respective crafts, whose finish has de- 
 cidedly no claims whatever to perfection. 
 
 The industry of the Porto artisans is quite remarkable. 
 Scarcely an idle person is seen in the streets. Persons who 
 follow similar trades, generally inhabit the same district of the 
 town ; and thus while the booksellers and the shoemakers are 
 pursuing the noiseless tenor of their way in their own exclusive 
 streets, the brasiers, the ironmongers, and block-tin manufac- 
 turers enjoy apart the harmony of their respective trades. 
 
 On the quays are seen fine blocks of granite, already con- 
 verted into form, having their edges cased with wood, ready 
 to be shipped off for buildings in Brasil, where it appears that 
 no good stone, or, at least, so durable as this, can be procured ; 
 — pipe-staves from Memel, — flax and iron,— and occasionally 
 coals from the north of England. There are generally at 
 anchor in the river, between Villa Nova and Porto, Russian, 
 Brasilian, English, American, Dutch, Danish, and some French 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 209 
 
 vessels ; but many of the latter nation are not to be found in 
 the Portuguese ports. Two-thirds of the shipping to be seen 
 in the Douro, are British, Brasilian, or Portuguese. 
 
 The trade between Porto and Brasil, before that colony 
 was advanced to the rank of an united kingdom with the 
 mother-country, which took place shortly after the court emi- 
 grated, through the persuasion of Lord Strangford and Sir Syd- 
 ney Smith, from Lisbon to South America, was very consider- 
 able ; for until that period Porto, had continued to receive a 
 large portion of the produce of the colony, and in fact became 
 a general entrepdt for the deposit of South American sugars, 
 coflFee, rice, and cotton, where purchases of these articles were 
 made for the consumption of other nations. When, however, 
 unrestricted communication was permitted to take place di- 
 rectly between the ports of Brasil and those of other countries, 
 the extent of this trade, so valuable to Portugal, underwent a 
 ruinous diminution, the native shipping fell into disuse, and 
 was at length in a great degree annihilated. In fact, the 
 trade between Porto and Brasil is now almost extinguished, 
 ■foreign vessels, whose charges for freight and general expenses 
 are much less than those of the Portuguese, having possessed 
 themselves of nearly the whole of the carrying trade from 
 Europe to that country. 
 
 With the exception of what Porto requires to import for its 
 own consumption, and for that of part of the northern provinces, 
 such as drugs, hardware, German glass and earthenware, cot- 
 ton, colonial produce, and salt fish, for which goods of wrought 
 iron, linen cloth, coarse shawls, shoes, articles of domestic 
 furniture, wines, salt, and some other things, are given in ex- 
 change, — scarcely any business is transacted here at present, 
 as a general mart for the purchase of assorted articles. The 
 general trade of the country is fast hastening to decay, and 
 nothing can arrest its progressive decline but the ' cultivation 
 of all those resources at home which are within the reach of 
 Port. o 
 
210 PORTUGAL 
 
 industry and skill ; the establishment of those manufactories 
 for which the country is qualified ; the final abolition of the 
 privileged companies ; a free and open competition in com- 
 merce ; and, above all, a liberal and enlightened govern- 
 ment. 
 
 The trade with the East Indies is the exclusive privilege of 
 the merchants established in Lisbon ; but during the last 
 session of the Cortes, the propriety of extending it to other 
 ports became a matter of discussion ; still, however, nothing 
 definitive was determined upon the subject. The East India 
 trade, even at Lisbon, is far below what it was, for the im- 
 ports were invariably repaid with gold ; and since the almost 
 total disappearance of this metal from the country, Brasil has 
 drawn a great portion of that trade to itself, from which and 
 the slave trade, continued in spite of British remonstrances, it 
 derives very large profits. 
 
 The manufactures of Portugal are now almost reduced to a 
 nonentity. The building of a woollen manufactory still exists 
 at Covilham ; but it does not prosper, since the manufactured 
 article is both coarse and dear, just the qualities to exclude it 
 from any market. There is an establishment of cotton-mills 
 at Thomar, which has its agents in Porto ; but the demand for 
 cotton twist of home manufacture is very limited, because that 
 imported from England is infinitely cheaper and better in 
 every respect. A glass manufactory was, many years since, 
 established by an EngUshman at Marinha Grande, near 
 Leiria, who died a year ago, and left it to the government, 
 having amassed there a very considerable property. The 
 management of it is now confided to Mr. Lyne. It is much 
 feared, and indeed there is too good reason for apprehending, 
 that the government will allow this important manufactory to 
 fall to the ground for the want of proper encouragement, as is 
 the case with everything submitted to its blighting influence. 
 The glass most frequently seen in use is of German manufac^ 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 211 
 
 ture, but its only recommendation above the British article is 
 its cheapness, the colour being exceedingly bad. 
 
 The export of Portuguese produce, besides a few articles 
 such as those already enumerated, and which are principally 
 sent to Bahia, Pernambuco, and Rio Janeiro, is almost con- 
 fined to England, Hamburg, and the Baltic. The annual 
 export of wine from Porto to different countries is said to 
 amount to about forty thousand pipes, more or less ; and, 
 in addition, to various parts are exported refined sugars, 
 tissues, hats of very coarse manufacture, cream of tartar, pre- 
 pared hides, not to be compared in any respect with those 
 which are cured in the English tan-yards, — sumach, and the 
 bitter orange, for the apothecaries of Hamburgh,— and great 
 quantities of garlic to Brasil, — sweet oranges and lemons, 
 almonds, dried fruits and sweetmeats, cork bark, onions, and 
 salt ; and in return for the portion of these articles taken by 
 England, Portugal receives from our country woollen cloths, 
 calicoes, lead, copper, iron, flax, staves for pipes, sail-cloth, a 
 small quantity of glass, hardware, crockery, and drugs. The 
 importations from the Baltic consist of iron, flax, staves, sail- 
 cloth, and a few other articles, for which scarcely anything 
 more is returned than salt. 
 
 The corn trade, too, forms one of the most valuable imports 
 from the Baltic and the Mediterranean ; but at this moment 
 the introduction of foreign wheat into the country is prohibited 
 by the government. This law is, however, occasionally relaxed 
 by the opening of the ports once or twice in the year for the 
 admission of a limited quantity, which is regulated by the 
 deficiencies in supply, and the demand for consumption. To 
 ascertain the amount of this deficiency at any given time is a 
 matter of perfect impossibility in the present state of the 
 country, as there are no statistic arrangements, or if so, only 
 imperfectly made, so that every measure adopted is quite a 
 matter of speculation. The ruling prices in the market serve 
 
212 PORTUGAL 
 
 as a stimulus to induce the government to allow the importa- 
 tion of corn upon the payment of certain duties ; but still, so 
 great is the scarcity sometimes, that a famine is. to be appre- 
 hended, and this alarm is always increased by the uncertainty 
 of the supply from foreign ports. A great deal of corn, as has 
 been remarked in a former letter, is smuggled out of Spain 
 across the Portuguese frontier, and passed as of the growth of 
 Portugal upon the payment of bribes to the custom-house 
 officers ; as likewise manufactured tobacco, chocolate, and 
 great quantities of soap, the whole of which are under the 
 Real Privilegio, or in the hands of monopolizing companies, 
 who purchase from the crown, as a writer on Portugal 
 states, at exorbitant rates, the noxious privilege of pre- 
 venting the benefits of commerce from flowing as nearly as 
 possible in an equality to all the members of the commu- 
 nity. 
 
 About fifty ship-loads of Newfoundland codfish are annually 
 received in British bottoms, which may be considered as part 
 of the return which England makes for the produce of Por- 
 tugal. 
 
 Mention however has been omitted of the newly-established 
 manufactory of glass near Aveiro, belonging to Joz6 Ferreira 
 Pinto Basto, of Lisbon, which is still in its infancy. From 
 the samples which have already been examined, there is every 
 probability of the speculator being able to produce an article 
 of good quality. Adjoining to this establishment, and belong- 
 ing to the same person, a manufacture of porcelain has been 
 attempted ; but it is not supposed that it will ever turn out a 
 very lucrative undertaking, as the English exporters can bring 
 into the market an article much better manufactured, and at 
 a much less price. 
 
 Fresh meat is excellent at Porto, particularly pork, during 
 the season, and beef, joints of which are very frequently sent 
 as most acceptable presents, by the steam-vessel, to friends at 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 213 
 
 Lisbon. Fowls, fish, such as turbot, soles, plaice, flounders, 
 and gurnet — the former, however, not being so common as 
 the la,tter, — vegetables, and fruits of all kinds, may be pro- 
 cured nearly throughout the year. In the provincial towns, 
 sheep and oxen are slaughtered only every other day ; and 
 such is the competition to obtain even a small quantity of 
 fresh meat, that the whole brought to market is disposed of at 
 a very early hour. The price of meat by the pound varies from 
 threepence to fourpence ; potatoes are sold for two shillings 
 the bushel ; a small dinner roll costs a penny, which is con- 
 sidered dear ; a good gallinha (or fowl) about two shillings and 
 threepence, for which eight tosto^ns, or three shillings and 
 ninepence, would be charged at Lisbon. 
 
 Bread is so dear, that for the lower orders it may be re- 
 garded as a delicacy. A bundle of wood for fuel, or a handful 
 of grass for mules, are often the only marketable articles which 
 make it worth the labour of a peasant to walk a conside- 
 rable distance into a neighbouring town. For more wealthy 
 purchasers, large logs of pine-wood are brought in on country 
 carts drawn by oxen. Hake, cut in slices and fried in oil on 
 the quays, is the ordinary food of the sailors, and is washed 
 down with a little north-country wine, which may be had in 
 the contiguous wine-houses at a very moderate price. We 
 have often amused ourselves with observing the sailors either 
 consuming huge slices of water-melons, or themselves dressing 
 their sardinhas on little brasiers containing charcoal, round 
 which they are seen in large groups squatted on their hams, 
 in a state of semi-nudity, with their red woollen nightcaps 
 and swarthy complexions, resembling a party of Caribbee 
 Indians. 
 
 The form of the Porto fishing-boats is perfectly beautiful, 
 though at the same time we should remark that the frame- 
 work and side planks are extremely solid. They have a latine 
 sail, and a rough pine for the mast, so fixed as to be easily 
 
214 PORTUGAL 
 
 struck in passing under the bridge of boats, close to the right 
 bank of the river, above or below which the crews, consisting 
 often of twenty men, haul in shore for the purpose of taking 
 in their provisions and stock of wine for the night. The 
 fishery off the coast of Portugal is of incalculable importance, 
 as supplying the principal part of the food of the labouring 
 classes. We shall return to this subject hereafter. 
 
 The expenses of housekeeping in some parts of Portugal are 
 inconsiderable. In the fortified town of Elvas, situated near 
 the Guadiana, on the frontier of the Alemtejo, about three 
 leagues and a half from Badajoz, on the left bank of the river, 
 a good family house may be procured, as has been stated, for 
 about six pounds for the twelvemonth. Bread of the finest 
 quality may be obtained from Badajoz for one penny the 
 pound, and meat from twopence to fourpence ; wine one 
 penny the bottle ; milk one penny a full quart ; oranges 
 twelve the penny ; three pomegranates for twopence, and a 
 turkey for about one shilling and sixpence. Colonial produce, 
 however, is nearly ten per cent dearer than in Lisbon, owing 
 to the additional charge for carriage ; but even in Elvas very 
 good Brasil coffee is to be purchased for about fourteenpence 
 the pound, and refined sugar for sixpence. 
 
 It has been mentioned also in a recent publication, that in 
 Spanish Estremadura a person with an income of one hundred 
 pounds per annum, may support with comfort a large family, 
 and even enjoy the luxury of a carriage. There, we hear, 
 that the finest bread is at little more than one halfpenny the 
 pound ; that meat and wine, both good of their kinds, are 
 proportionably cheap, and that vegetables are to be had in 
 abundance ; that labourers in husbandry are to be hired for 
 about seven-pence by the day, and a female servant for about 
 two pounds sterling, as wages, for the whole year. Good 
 pasture is to be procured for cattle at a price not worth the 
 statement ; and the sweet acorns, which make the pork so de- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 215 
 
 licious at Porto and in other parts of Portugal, grow wild, and 
 are to be had for the gathering. Such are the allurements to 
 a residence in these parts of the peninsula; and yet, who, 
 accustomed to the blessings of a free government, would 
 exchange his happy independence, with whatever hardships 
 accompanied, for the cheap and miserable luxuries of the 
 south, where the iron grasp of bigotry and despotism arrests all 
 improvement, and the terrors wielded by the priesthood guard 
 the avenues against the admission of any change for the better! 
 
 The heat of the climate is such, that mahogany furniture 
 soon warps, unless confined by binders of brass ; and so in- 
 tense, indeed, is the degree which is felt at this season of the 
 year in the inland parts of Portugal, that it is almost insup- 
 portable. We are tormented incessantly by a variety of per- 
 secuting insects. Had Domitian been emperor of this country, 
 posterity would not here have been so ready to stigmatise him 
 as a tyrant ; nor would they, as at present, be exposed to the 
 grievous tyranny of flies. 
 
 The bed-frames in the best houses must frequently be taken 
 to pieces and scoured, in order to keep another plague within 
 bounds ; but in the Estalagems or inns, the floors of the rooms 
 seem never to be washed, and not very frequently swept; 
 while the appearance of the walls, and the state of the furni- 
 ture of the beds, sufficiently indicate the unclean habits of 
 their occasional occupants. Nor is the filthy condition of 
 these inns, if they deserve the name, at all compensated for 
 by linen, white as the driven snow, frilled towels and pillow- 
 cases, and a bed as hard as a flag-stone. The very walls 
 have their numerous tenants ; and before retiring to rest, it is 
 usual to institute a strict search after enemies, and to antici- 
 pate nocturnal attacks by committing previous murder in the 
 wholesale. 
 
 In the better class of houses the sheets are frequently 
 flounced with a deep border of muslin, as in almost every 
 
216 PORTUGAL 
 
 instance are the pillow-cases and hand-towels with open- 
 worked muslin of a fine texture at either end, which has a 
 very pretty appearance. This custom, it is said, formerly 
 prevailed in England. 
 
 Upon arriving at an Estalagem, the traveller, if his Con- 
 dessa, or provision basket, be not well furnished, must prepare 
 himself to put up with very meagre fare. His best chance 
 will be a half-starved fowl, whose throat has been cut in 
 honour of his arrival, and which has been immersed for a few 
 minutes in scalding water, in order to accelerate the process 
 of removing the feathers, which are instantly stripped off with 
 the skin. The master, mistress, and servants, are almost 
 always seen without shoes and stockings, luxuries uncommon ; 
 while the children are suffered to roll in the dust of the roads, 
 either quite naked, or clothed only in a scanty shirt. 
 
 The ancient distaff is in universal use among the female 
 peasantry, whose short jackets, neat caps and kerchiefs, and 
 occasional use of men's hats, adorned with a broad band and 
 buckle, and black feathers, with their blue petticoats, often 
 remind us of the heroines, worthy descendants of Owen Glen- 
 dower, who resisted the invaders of the sacred soil of the Prin- 
 cipality at Fishguard. The brims of the peasants' hats in this 
 district 'are usually looped up, and ornamented with rosettes 
 of black worsted or silk. 
 
 The arrangement of an Estalagem is generally to have an 
 open space in front, on one side of which is a door leading into 
 the dark receptacle for the mules, — for it does not deserve the 
 name of a stable, — and on the other is a sort of dungeon, dreary 
 and dark, in which are placed, side by side, numerous coarse 
 bags stuffed with straw, or leaves of Indian corn, for muleteers 
 and foot-passengers. A stone staircase, invariably covered 
 with filth, and most frequently beset by sturdy and importu- 
 nate beggars, whose clasped hands and earnest entreaties it is 
 almost impossible to resist, leads up to a landing-place, or 
 
Ziu/r./v.-d h'Jcs.f'?: Sh:l(,'n .fiv?n ..m .■rujm.il fJniti 
 
 E,STAVJLA'CiEM,, '(MR POKTllffFlTESE IKN 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 317 
 
 eating-room, common to all comers, on either side of which 
 are doors to the different cupboards, for they cannot be called 
 bed-rooms, which nevertheless ordinary travellers are content 
 to occupy, or rather share with the native persevejos. Such 
 an apartment being " bem retirado," is, under the feelings of 
 fatigue, often accepted ; but it must serve for bed, baggage, 
 and dressing-room. In most instances it is agreeably situated 
 over the place where the mules are shut in for the night, and 
 there being certain apertures in the floor, the traveller may be 
 said to have a constant eye upon his beast. In addition to this 
 advantage, another should be recorded as equally contributing 
 to the vigilance and security of man and beast. In order to 
 keep evil spirits at a distance, and to enable them to consume 
 the necessary quantity of food, the mules are left standing at 
 night with a multitude of bells appended to their collars, 
 whose jingling sounds, " most musical, most melancholy," form 
 no pleasing interruption to the slumbers of the weary traveller. 
 
 According to an idle custom universally prevailing through- 
 out Portugal, both mules and horses are never suffered to lie 
 down in their stalls, the filthy state of which would impose 
 rather too severe a burden upon the industry of Portuguese 
 grooms, were the poor animals permitted to take their rest as 
 in England. The efforts made by the mules, whenever op- 
 portunity occurs on the journey, to enjoy a roll, is frequently 
 productive of very ludicrous accidents, and particularly in 
 crossing a ford. We have observed that the muleteers gene- 
 rally use a large coarse glove, made of hemp, when cleaning 
 their mules, instead of rubbing them down, as with us, with 
 good wisps of dry straw. Canary seed is commonly culti- 
 vated for being mixed with Indian corn, while the straw is 
 considered to be a more nutritious food for mules and horses 
 of burden than the very best hay. 
 
 The muleteers seem to hold a sort of intelligible conversa- 
 tion with their machos, whose movements are directed prin- 
 
218 PORTUGAL 
 
 cipally by the voice. Some of these mules are fine creatures, 
 and beautifully shaped, of great strength, and of almost inex- 
 haustible spirit. From fifty to sixty guineas are frequently 
 given for them, as it is known that their hardiness and endur- 
 ance of fatigue are admirably adapted to conquer the diffi- 
 culties in the nearly impassable roads of the provinces. Tra- 
 vellers, who are unequal to support the jolting on bad roads, 
 under an almost vertical sun, and who dislike the uneven paces 
 of a mule, which generally produce feverish sensations, usually 
 hire a Liteira, which resembles a double Bath-chair, and is 
 suspended by strong poles between two mules, the foremost 
 of which is always led by the guide in diflBcult parts of the 
 road. The price of a Liteira varies from twelve to fifteen 
 shillings a day, exclusive of gratuities and the food of the 
 muleteer. 
 
 The muleteers undergo very great fatigue, and often in the 
 heat of the day keep up a running pace with the mules, when 
 put to their full speed. Like the rest of their countrymen, 
 they are invariably furnished with a capote, upon the principle 
 that what keeps out cold will necessarily keep out heat. In 
 dressing their machos, and in feeding themselves, they exhibit 
 an equal degree of providence ; for, however the master may 
 fare upstairs, the muleteer is certain of being speedily served 
 with his omelet swimming in oil, stewed chicken and rice, 
 sardinhas, garlic, and measure of wine. We have observed in 
 the muleteers a respect, to say the least of it, for the external 
 ceremonies of religion, which we could not but approve, in at- 
 tending mass whenever possible, and at however early an hour 
 previous to our departure from a place where we have passed 
 the night. Intoxication is rarely known among the labouring 
 classes ; but eating voraciously is by no means an uncommon 
 accomplishment in Portugal ; though from the loud talking, or 
 rather the constant din of stunning vociferation, which charac- 
 terises the ordinary meetings of Portuguese at their meals, one 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 219 
 
 would suppose that there would be much more of " sayings 
 than doings" on such occasions. 
 
 Books, we find, are not commonly in use among the military 
 and ecclesiastical classes, but are chiefly confined to the libra- 
 ries of the intelligent merchants, in one of which we have been 
 shown a collection that, for the taste and judgment exhibited 
 in its formation, though, perhaps, not for its extent, might have 
 challenged the approbation of Lorenzo himself. 
 
 Elvas, it is said, with a population of ten thousand souls, 
 and a garrison of five thousand men, has not one bookseller's 
 shop. Is not this owing to the recent influence of the Inqui- 
 sition, and the present power of the priesthood ? Ignorance is 
 certainly the elder child of despotism and bigotry. The book- 
 sellers' shops in Porto appear to contain larger and better 
 collections than those of Lisbon. The inhabitants of Porto are 
 indeed infinitely more enlightened than the servile natives of 
 the Portuguese metropolis. 
 
 Fountains in Portugal are as common as in the towns of 
 France and Switzerland, a drawing of one of which shall be 
 sent home for your inspection. Those at Porto have generally 
 two cisterns, for private and public purposes, with a notice 
 affixed over each, as " Para Particulares" on one side, and on 
 the other, " Para Aguadeiros." Linen, to use a phrase of the 
 tub, is beautifully got up in every part of Portugal. It is quite 
 impossible but that, under the influence of such a bright and 
 ardent sun, both muslins and cottons should be bleached to 
 perfection. Indeed, ordinary cotton stockings of British ma- 
 nufacture lose their brown colour after being washed two or 
 three times, and become perfectly white from exposure to the 
 air and sun. 
 
 The system of passports here is infamously managed, and, in 
 fact, is nothing less than the hateful remnant of a tyrannical 
 autocracy. We have been toised, scrutinized, noted, and vistoed 
 ten times over. "While the pert officer of police is taking down 
 
220 PORTUGAL 
 
 the traveller's "Idade Annos" and "Altura Pollegadas," so 
 many"Rosto," "Cabello," " Sobrolhos," " Olhos," "Nariz," 
 " Boca," " Barba," and " C6r," the unfortunate victim 
 of the clerk's curiosity feels to look like the poacher in Bun- 
 bury 's caricature, w^ho is standing before a magistrate, and 
 for very shame squeezing his hat into a thousand forms. The 
 reason assigned for visiting travellers with this severe annoy- 
 ance, is the present disturbed state of the country ; but is there 
 any probability of a change for the better ? Who ever heard 
 of unbridled authority imposing restrictions upon freedom, and 
 afterwards as willingly withdrawing them ? They manage these 
 things far better under the purer constitutional atmosphere 
 of England. Is it consistent with the liberty which should be 
 enjoyed under a free form of government, that neither peasant 
 nor artisan can proceed three leagues from his place of occu- 
 pation without enduring the previous insults of the passport 
 system ? The restraints which reason and equal law impose, 
 no one would contend against ; 
 
 For just experience tells in every soil. 
 
 That those who think must govern those that toil ; 
 
 but oppression is not the sort of rule that will be ever acknow- 
 ledged as good, and therefore necessary, by an inhabitant of 
 that country, where. 
 
 Stern o'er each bosom Reason holds her state. 
 
 With daring aims irregularly great : 
 
 Pride in their port, defiance in their eye, 
 
 I see the lords of human kind pass by ; 
 
 Intent on high designs a thoughtful band. 
 
 By forms unfashioned, fresh from Nature's hand ; 
 
 Fierce in their native hardiness of soul. 
 
 True to imagined right, above controul ; 
 
 While e'en the peasant boasts these rights to scan. 
 
 And learns to venerate himself as man. 
 
 Goldsmith's Traveller. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 221 
 
 The Portuguese peasantry are remarkably civil to strangers, 
 wherever they are met on the roads, and whether seated, or 
 even recumbent, invariably rise up as the traveller passes, to 
 pay him their customary testimonies of respect, and with a 
 degree of kindness to an Englishman, whenever he is recog- 
 nised as such, that is peculiarly gratifying. It is not an 
 uncommon event by any means in the northern provinces, to 
 see women driving the small country carts, bedecked with gold 
 necklaces and fine ear-rings, probably the heir-looms of the 
 family, and handed down from one generation to another, as 
 is the case in Normandy and Switzerland. The children 
 even of peasants are often met with, tending pigs, or following 
 cattle, whose little fingers are loaded with rings either of gold 
 or silver; whilst in every other respect their dress would 
 bespeak their habits to be of the most primitive description. 
 
 The absentee system contributes very much to increase the 
 wretchedness of this class of persons in Portugal. The fidal- 
 gos and other landholders reside principally in the towns, and 
 leave the management of their estates to farmers of the rents, 
 whose grinding oppression cruelly diminishes the few comforts 
 within the reach of the poor peasantry ; while every feeling of 
 mutual goodwill and reciprocal interest, which should unite 
 the lord and the cultivator of the soil under one common bond, 
 is totally destroyed, and with these, as a natural consequence, 
 every idea of patriotism. The institution of the Misericordia 
 at Porto, for administering to the wants of the aged, poor, and 
 sick, has for some time, we are informed, been managed by a 
 committee of fidalgos, who have shown that they think charity 
 begins at home, by plundering the funds to provide for their own 
 extravagant expenditure ; — no great inducement this for per- 
 sons henceforward to bequeath money to an establishment so 
 conducted. Here, as at Lisbon, we have seen cases of hydro- 
 cele and hernia disgustingly exhibited in the open street, with 
 the view of exciting the commiseration of passengers. 
 
222 PORTUGAL 
 
 The establishment of the Misericordia is highly creditable 
 to the character of the Portuguese, as a people ; and when its 
 funds are properly and honestly administered, according to 
 the original views of the institution, must be productive of 
 considerable benefits to the nation and its dependencies. 
 
 It owes its origin to the semi-monastic society, at present 
 known by the name of Loyos, or canons belonging to the order 
 of St. Mark, the Evangelist, which, it is said, had its foundation 
 in the congregation of Saint Laurence of Venice. Thus much, 
 however, is certain, that the Loyos were introduced and esta- 
 blished in Portugal more than four centuries ago, under the 
 name of Hospitaleiros, for the purpose of superintending the 
 hospitals and other public receptacles ; and that the said 
 brotherhood, now called Misericordia, was first composed of 
 beneficent and devout persons, who personally, or with the 
 aid of their funds and lands, contributed, under the immediate 
 direction of these Hospitaleiros, to the building and mainte- 
 nance of charitable establishments. 
 
 In process of time this brotherhood, diff'ering essentially, as 
 it did, from most of the continental institutions of Cathohc 
 devotion, both in its nature and purposes, and composed of the 
 most humane and pious body of men, greatly increased its 
 numbers, and at length engaged the attention of government 
 towards its interests, — a government, at that time, the most 
 enlightened in Europe, at once liberal and Christian, and free 
 from the noxious influence of monachism, the most inveterate 
 enemy of true religion and piety. Such a government, as might 
 be supposed, conferred considerable privileges on this pious as- 
 sociation, taking it forthwith under its royal protection, granting 
 it a charter of incorporation, and endeavouring to diffuse its 
 principles throughout the whole of the kingdom; with this view, 
 that eventually there should be scarcely a village, however 
 small, in Portugal, or in any of the Portuguese settlements, 
 situated in whatever quarter of the globe, which should not 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 223 
 
 possess the charitable institution of the Misericordia. Among 
 other privileges conceded by the government to this fraternity, 
 was an exemption from the operation of those laws which 
 have reference to the corporations under the " mao morta," 
 (mortmain) ; and indeed it is now the only body which enjoys 
 the liberty of inheriting any legacy or donation, " mortis 
 causA," and of receiving such additions to their funds, " inter 
 vivos," as it is termed. The disinterested piety, therefore, of 
 the faithful soon enriched these benevolent associations with 
 various gifts and bequests; and infinite numbers of Portu- 
 guese, who had quitted their native land for the purposes of 
 commerce, and had amassed fortunes in India or Brasil, and 
 who died without children or near relatives, bequeathed im- 
 mense sums to be appropriated to the Misericordia of Lisbon 
 or Porto. These two cities consequently became, within the 
 last century, extremely rich in these institutions, which were 
 by far the most wealthy of all those established for charitable 
 purposes. 
 
 •Excellent, however, and widely beneficial as the Miseri- 
 cordia was calculated to prove to the nation, it did not, — 
 perhaps it could not, — escape that general system of corrup- 
 tion which ruined every thing else, however venerable and 
 useful, in Portugal. Those state harpies, the fidalgos and 
 desembargadores, who contaminate everything which they 
 touch, did not leave this rich and precious mine unexplored 
 by their avidity. They first contrived to introduce themselves 
 among the brotherhood, and at length, following up their 
 purpose, succeeded in establishing the ridiculous distinction, 
 at least in a Christian association of such a character, of noble- 
 man, and mechanic or plebeian members ; and, under the 
 pretext of loans, of which neither the principal nor interest 
 has ever been replaced, they exhausted the coff'ers, and finally 
 ruined the whole body ; so that, at last, the Misericordias, 
 from being the richest and most opulent institutions in the 
 
224 PORTUGAL 
 
 principal cities of Portugal, were absolutely reduced to beg- 
 gary in order to obtain funds ; and had not relief been speedily 
 administered to them from the public treasury, the sick would 
 have perished, as in fact many did, in the hospitals, from the 
 want of proper care and sustenance. 
 
 It must be admitted that the government, at every period, 
 exerted its utmost power to encourage and protect the institu- 
 tion of the Misericordia, which, if we except the relaxation and 
 abuses from which it has suffered in latter times, might well 
 serve as the model for charitable establishments in any age or 
 country. Like their predecessors, the Loyos, this brotherhood 
 possessed complete controul over the direction of the public 
 hospitals. That of the Foundlings also was confided to their 
 care ; and the King personally enlisted himself a member of 
 their establishment at Lisbon. 
 
 The attention of the Misericordia, according to the objects 
 and rules of its original institution, is chiefly directed towards 
 purposes. Christian and pious, as indeed the obvious import of 
 the term expresses. Hospitals for the sick of the district* in 
 which they are established, schools for the education of desti- 
 tute orphans of both sexes, foundling hospitals, relief to priso- 
 ners, the burial of the dead, and other charitable objects, come 
 under their immediate consideration. The members of each 
 Misericordia meet once a year for the purpose of electing a 
 president, called " provedor;" and likewise to choose a cer- 
 tain number of members, who form a board of governors, and 
 who preside over the general administration of the diiferent 
 establishments in Lisbon, as well as over those which are 
 connected with them, in other places. 
 
 The Misericordia of Lisbon has certain peculiarities and 
 privileges which distinguish it from the others ; for instance, 
 to mention one, the royal patronage, which makes it at once 
 more conspicuous ; but alas ! the Lisbon institution, as well 
 as the rest, is now sadly neglected ; and the government was 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 225 
 
 lately compelled to withdraw from it the management of the 
 royal hospital, in order that the sick might not absolutely 
 perish from filth and want ; and to appoint a special governor, 
 immediately under the eye of the home minister, called 
 " Mordomo Mor." There are still, however, many ways by 
 which they might recover themselves, and we might venture 
 to assert, that under the influence of an enlightened govern- 
 ment, the Misericordias might yet be so reformed, as to become 
 again the best institutions of the kind in Europe, 
 
 The labourers in the quarries on the banks of the Douro near 
 Porto, whom we have observed on our excursions up the river 
 converting stone for the line of new quay now forming along 
 the Porto side of the river, get about one hundred and sixty reis, 
 or about eight pence in our money, for their day's work, which 
 commences shortly after four in the morning, and is continued, 
 with three hours' rest during the extreme heat of the day, be- 
 yond sunset. Immediately below the public school, and a little 
 way up the right bank of the river, an immense portion of the 
 overhanging rock suddenly fell some short time since, and de- 
 stroyed a number of persons who had assembled at a pretty 
 fountain near a quinta, whither the fine view obtained thence 
 down the river had attracted them. 
 
 One of the finest streets in Porto is the Rua de Santo Anto- 
 nio. It forms the continuation of the Calfada dos Clerigos, 
 where the market people principally assemble. At the top is 
 situated the beautiful church of the Clerigos. From the part 
 where these two streets divide, the Rua das Hortas begins, 
 and terminates in the Rua Nova d'Almada. Close to the 
 Rua d'entre Vendas, where small wines are sold, is a sort of 
 covered passage, or little bazaar for inferior shops, where the 
 country people are accustomed to make their purchases. In 
 the Largo da Feira, bread, dried fish, fruits and vegetables of 
 all sorts, are sold, as well as groceries and other necessaries. 
 The Rua das Flores, however, is the principal street at Porto, 
 Port. p 
 
226 PORTUGAL 
 
 and in which the best shops in every line of business are 
 situated, and where any article almost of English manufacture 
 may be procured. At an "Armazem de Papel de todas as 
 qualidades," we observed a shield of the Norwich Union fire 
 office placed over the door. In the Rua de San Domingos 
 are the bank or Caixa Filial do Banco de Lisboa, the grand 
 front of the Dominican convent, and principal entrance into 
 their church. At the end of the Rua das Flores, and over- 
 looking the Largo da Feira, is the large Benedictine nunnery, 
 in whose beautiful chapel the most sublime music is frequently 
 heard. 
 
 There is a fine fountain of excellent water in the Rua de 
 bello Monte, which is to the left up a steep street, forming the 
 continuation in a northern direction of the Rua de San Do- 
 mingos, and another beautiful fountain in the Prafa de Santa 
 Theresa. From the summit of the elegant tower of the Cle- 
 rigos, a most commanding view may be obtained over the 
 town and neighbouring wooded heights, the windings of the 
 Douro, a large extent of coast, and the Atlantic ocean. The - 
 view from the northerly terrace of the Serra convent above the 
 left bank of the Douro, comprises the public and private build- 
 ings of the city, and the remains of the old town wall. The 
 corridors of the convent are extremely long, as may be sup- 
 posed from the almost interminable line of building which 
 looks towards Porto. From the eastern terrace, at the end of 
 the corridor, a little chapel is distinguished at about six miles 
 distance, perched nearly on the loftiest summit of the Serra, 
 in which are the. coal-mines of Vallongo. 
 
 The monks are of the order of Augustines, and possess very 
 extensive, demesnes, which are laid out into fields, pleasure- 
 gardens, orchards, orange and lemon groves, with the addition 
 of fountains and an aqueduct. The rigour of their discipline 
 never permits them to quit the paradise in which they are 
 confined ; but they have their rabbit-warren, and preserves for 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 227 
 
 game, which, with their religious occupations and employment 
 in the surrounding grounds, serve to beguile the time. We 
 took a walk one evening in the gardens with the prior, a 
 venerable old man, who was distinguished from his brethren 
 by wearing a ring, set with a large amethyst, on the middle 
 finger of his right hand, and a large silver cross worn round 
 the neck. 
 
 Passing under the Ramada, or walk of vines, which arch 
 overhead on trellis-work, supported by rude granite columns 
 about nine feet high, we came to a piece of ground, the extent 
 of twenty acres, situated to the north-east of the convent, and 
 this year bearing a crop of Indian corn, which is estimated, 
 according to the prior's statement, to contain about twenty- 
 seven loads of produce, each load being reckoned forty al- 
 queires of corn, and the alqueire to be worth a crusado novo, or 
 ninety shillings the load in our money. Thence we ascended 
 to the summit of the aqueduct, which runs down to the convent, 
 and passes over a mill that is worked by the superfluous 
 water ; and enjoyed from that elevated position a still more 
 superb view to the east, of the line of high pointed mountains 
 in the distance, and a conically shaped hill, apparently of 
 white granite, with the little chapel on its summit called San 
 Cosme ; a noble reach of the river, and the buildings on the 
 right bank, including a large untenanted mansion, called the 
 Quinta de Freixo, to the bishop's public school, as it is called, 
 and which is not yet completed. Down the river again to the 
 westward, a fine expanse of water is seen, with part of the 
 city of Porto in the centre of the view, the remainder being 
 intercepted by the convent groves and buildings. 
 
 But the most interesting prospect by far is obtained from a 
 small chapel advanced on a terrace, which immediately fronts 
 the west, and overhangs Villa Nova and the immense' maga- 
 zines in which the Douro wines are deposited, commanding 
 the whole city, a considerable circuit of the river, the cheerful 
 
228 PORTUGAL 
 
 hill of Gaya, with the remains of an old building on its summit, 
 incorrectly reputed a Castello dos Mouros, a little below Villa 
 Nova, and apparently locking up the Douro, as you will find 
 in the sketch which accompanies this letter. It is by far the 
 prettiest object seen in the neighbourhood of Porto. To the 
 right again, the view falls upon the bridge of boats, the vessels 
 of different nations at anchor below it, and the new line of 
 quay which runs parallel with the right bank of the river. 
 
 In the gardens of the quintas, small channels of water, kept 
 constantly filled from some overflowing fountain, are so skil- 
 fully constructed, as to furnish a never-failing supply of mois- 
 ture to the shrubs and plantations, which would otherwise in 
 summer be burnt up by the heat. The ulmis adjungere vitem 
 is well known in poetical description, but in Portugal, besides 
 overshadowing their artificial supporters, the vines are seen 
 attaching themselves to, or hanging down in luxuriant festoons 
 from forest trees, such as the oak, chestnut, and cork, in all 
 the wildness of nature, and not unfrequently insinuating them- 
 selves among the branches of myrtle-trees, which attain a con- 
 siderable size in the hedge-rows, and contrasting their large 
 purple bunches with the snow-white blossom. The union is 
 truly poetical, and its novelty is charming to the eye of a 
 northern traveller. You shall have a sketch of the myrtle and 
 vine in conjunction, faithfully represented. A vine is often 
 purposely planted by the farmer under an oak tree, whose 
 boughs it soon overruns, repaying the little labour expended 
 in its cultivation by its fruit, and the lop of its branches. Ten 
 pipes of green wine, vinho verde, expressed from these grapes, 
 will yield one pipe of excellent brandy. Being light and 
 sharp, the vinho verde is preferred by the generality of Por- 
 tuguese, in the summer, to wines of superior strength and 
 quality. 
 
 The golden pippin-trees are here in as declining a state as 
 they are in England. Great care, however, is taken in their 
 
iB-' 
 
 
 
 'i 
 
 
 ;3^\ 
 
 
 * 
 
 I 
 
 I f 
 
 
 ,1 ." 
 
 •i 
 
 .1 *•, 
 
 > J I- - 
 
 I { > • r 
 
 n'.-i. 
 
 i 
 
ILLtJSTRATED. 229 
 
 cultivation ; and at one of the quintas, where we were hospi- 
 tably received, we were surprised at finding a nursery of 
 them amounting to nearly a thousand, and apparently in a 
 very healthy condition. It is observed, however, that they 
 invariably become cankered after the growth of a few years. 
 Cider is said to have been first known in Africa, and thence to 
 have made its way across the Iberian and Lusitanian penin- 
 sula, by the Pyrenees, into France and Normandy, and ulti- 
 mately into our country. Were not the vine so luxuriant in 
 Portugal, the inhabitants might be disposed to turn their 
 attention to the increase of apple-trees, which would amply 
 repay every care bestowed upon them by their rich produce, 
 calculated alike for the table and the press. The branches of 
 the fruit-trees are literally breaking down under the weight 
 which has increased upon them. Little care, however, is 
 taken to prevent the mischief by the application of props ; for 
 such is the climate and fertility of the soil, that the ensuing 
 spring commonly repairs the injury, and the vigour of the tree 
 seems never to' be exhausted. The young trees are generally 
 very great bearers. 
 
 We have observed that the orange trees do not flourish in 
 the gardens of those quintas which are situated near the sea, 
 the upper branches appearing to be blighted by the influence 
 of the briny atmosphere. To propagate them, a circular inci- 
 sion is first made in the bark of a branch, and then a piece of 
 cork of cylindrical shape, filled with moist earth, is placed 
 round it about half a foot in length. This may perhaps be 
 done in the spring of one year, and by the month of January 
 following roots have protruded from the incision, below which 
 the branch is about that time cut off" and planted in the ground. 
 It produces fruit sooner than the trees which are raised from 
 seed; but these last, though of slower growth, are generally 
 more stout and hearty than the former, and yield a better 
 fruit, while the quantity may be smaller. The sour orange 
 
230 PORTUGAL 
 
 tree, not being so succulent as the sweet, gives a larger pror 
 portion of fruit, which exceeds the sweet orange in size. It 
 has a very thick rind, with an inner covering that resembles 
 wool, is rather bitter, and, though not so sour as the lemon, is 
 yet frequently used in making lemonade. The arundo donax, 
 favoured by the heat of the climate, grows to a considerable 
 height, and acquiring a degree of solidity, is very useful in the 
 formation of fences for vineyards, and the framework of espa- 
 liers. Chestnut trees are commonly cultivated in this part of 
 Portugal, with the view of providing a regular supply of hoops 
 for wine-casks. 
 
 The garden of a beautiful quinta, in the parish of Avintes, 
 where we have been received with splendid hospitality, con- 
 tains cedar, cypress, and palm trees, of considerable size,^- 
 numerous Brasilian plants, among which the gaudy scarlet of 
 the hibiscus speciosus is pre-eminently attractive, — and a large 
 variety of exotics from other regions, — orange, lemon, and 
 lime trees, growing in the utmost luxuriance, — Catalofiian 
 jasmine, and a profusion of foreign clematis, attached to and 
 completely covering the front of the house. The balmy state 
 of the surrounding atmosphere, produced by this assemblage 
 of sweets, no language can convey an adequate notion of. 
 The quinta is situated at some distance from the banks of the 
 river, and the way winding up to it leads under the shade of 
 cork trees, some of which are remarkably large. The open 
 spaces were clothed, at the time of our visit, with wild myrtles, 
 exuberant in blossom ; 
 
 Thus was this place 
 
 A happy rural seat of various views; 
 
 Groves whose rich trees wept odorous gums and balm. 
 
 Others, whose fruit, burnished with golden rind. 
 
 Hung amiable, Hesperian fables true. 
 
 If true, here only, and of delicious taste : 
 
 Plowers of all hue, and without thorn the rose. 
 
 Milton. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 231 
 
 We returned home to Porto, upon this occasion, by torch- 
 light, which had a singular effect. As we landed, and, ac- 
 cording to invariable custom, from the stern of our pleasure- 
 boat, a solemn procession of monks, bearing numerous lights, 
 was passing through the public walk on the height above us, 
 whose mournful chaunt was heard at a considerable distance 
 as it broke upon the stillness of the night. 
 
 We measured the circumference of a pine tree, standing in 
 the Commenda of Rio Meiao, at three feet from the ground, 
 and we found that it amounted to twenty-four palmos, and six 
 pollegadas ; which may be considered as nearly equal to one 
 hundred and ninety-eight Portuguese inches, or about fifteen 
 English feet, the English measure being less than the Portu- 
 guese. The paucity of fine trees generally observed in the 
 grounds attached to the quintas, is explained by the right 
 which the crown possesses of sending in commissioners to cut 
 down and carry away all such timber as may seem fit for the 
 purposes of naval architecture. These agents of government 
 fix their own price, and the proprietor is obliged to accept 
 whatever sum they may determine to award him ; and it is 
 seldom that, by even paying a considerable bribe, he is able to 
 preserve a favourite tree from the ruthless axe, if required for 
 the king's dockyard. 
 
 Shooting is a favourite amusement of the wealthy Portu- 
 guese, when resident at their quintas. A wall of a certain 
 height, extended round a property, is the only defence for a 
 preserve of game ; for the uninclosed grounds are open to 
 every sportsman, and there are no game laws in Portugal to 
 keep intruders at a distance. The red-legged partridges are 
 frequently shot when perched on the walls surrounding the 
 quintas, or on the branches of trees- ; but no right exists to 
 follow the game, or to commence beating for it, within the 
 walled enclosure of an estate. Woodcocks are abundant in 
 the season, and many are found at that time off the coast. 
 
232 PORTUGAL 
 
 which have fallen into the sea exhausted by the length of their 
 flight. 
 
 Descending the Praf a da Ribeira, a steep street which runs 
 from the centre of the town, between the quarters of the S6 
 and the Victoria ; and leaving the Rua dos Inglezes lower 
 down to the right, where the English Factory-house is situated ; 
 and passing through the fish-market on the quay at the 
 bottom of the hill, we turned to the left, and followed the line 
 of street looking upon the river as far as the bridge of boats. 
 Immediately opposite to the bridge there is a clumsy repre- 
 sentation of souls enduring the flames of purgatory, and under- 
 neath a small box to receive alms, inscribed, " Esmolla pelas 
 almas da Ponte." Numerous ex votos are suspended round 
 the tablet, and among the number a large collection of rusty 
 keys, the meaning of which no one was able to explain to us. 
 The object of converting them into votive offerings must have 
 been of course religious, and indeed no other inference can be 
 drawn from their being found in that particular situation. A 
 large picture, placed close to the tablet, recals to the recollec- 
 tion of the inhabitants of Porto the horrid massacre committed 
 near the spot by the troops of Soult, on the 29th of March, 
 1809. The river is represented as almost filled with fugitives 
 and bodies of the slain ; while Soult, mounted on a white 
 charger, is seen at length giving orders by his trumpeters for 
 a cessation of the carnage. In justification of this indiscrimi- 
 nate slaughter, the French assert that the officer sent by their 
 general to summon the town, was cruelly murdered by the 
 people. 
 
 It is usual, near these purgatorial altars, to give in exchange 
 for alms little pieces of paper, numbered, and bearing the fol- 
 lowing inscriptions, as, " N. 20. Pelas Almas dos que mais 
 exercitarao as obras de misericordia com os proximos ;" and, 
 " N. 57. Pela Alma^ que por tua causa, e mao exemplo, 
 padece no Purgatorio." A little further on to the left is the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 233 
 
 place where the country people sell large quantities of rye 
 straw, which serves as fodder for mules; and the custom-house, 
 where the duties on wines and brandies are received, " Direi- 
 tos Reaes Registo da Entrada dos Vinhos, e Agoas Ardentes." 
 The long storehouses for the reception of the Alto Douro wines 
 in Villa Nova, are seen immediately from the bridge. These 
 depositories have no cellars, against the use of which a general 
 prejudice seems to prevail among the merchants, though it 
 is admitted that the wines are thus exposed to the various 
 changes of the atmosphere, and lose in consequence much of 
 their colour and flavour. 
 
 In his account of the war in Spain and Portugal, Colonel 
 Jones gives an interesting recital of the principal events which 
 accompanied the possession of Porto by the French, and which 
 will form an appropriate conclusion to this letter. 
 
 Soult then (March 1809,) invested Porto, which had been 
 fortified with much labour ; 200 pieces of artillery had been 
 mounted on extensive detached works, and a garrison of 
 20,000 men was collected for their defence ; but after an ill- 
 regulated defence of three days, the city was carried by assault 
 on the 29th of March. The French soldiers, on entering the 
 town, made an indiscriminate slaughter of the inhabitants, and 
 delivered themselves up to every species of plunder and licen- 
 tiousness ; which state of ill discipline was terminated, after 
 twenty-four hours' duration, by the orders of Soult. The fall 
 of Porto laid open the northern provinces, and at the same 
 time the southern frontier was deprived of protection ; and 
 from other disastrous occurrences the road to Lisbon was ex- 
 posed. 
 
 " Thus situated were the aiFairs of Portugal, when Sir 
 Arthur Wellesley landed at Lisbon, on the 22nd of April, to 
 assume the chief command. 
 
 " Marshal Soult remained nearly a month at Porto inactive, 
 but at length, impatient at the delay, he detached 6000 men 
 
234 PORTUGAL 
 
 under General Loison, to drive the Portuguese from behind 
 the Tamega ; where Silveira, after having recaptured Chaves 
 and blocked up his rear, had taken post, to cut oiF his only- 
 remaining communication with Spain. After an obstinate 
 resistance of some days, Loison succeeded in establishing him- 
 self at Amarante." 
 
 In the meantime. Sir Arthur Wellesley, " unfettered in his 
 views, acted with decision ; and on the tenth day after his 
 landing, the British from Leiria, 16,000 in number, were in 
 movement for the recovery of Porto, by Coirabra and Aveiro ; 
 while 6000 Portuguese, under Marshal Beresford, marched 
 by Vizeu to cross the Douro at Lamego, and cut off the 
 enemy's best line of retreat by Amarante ; the corps at 
 Abrantes remaining to hold Victor's force in check. On the 
 10th of May, the French advanced posts were met with on 
 the Vouga ; and on the following day, 4000 infantry and some 
 cavalry were dislodged from the strong ground above Grijo, 
 and pursued with success. The same evening all the enemy's 
 force withdrew from the left of the Douro ; the floating bridge 
 was destroyed, and all the boats near Porto were firmly 
 secured on the right bank : so that, on the 12th, Sir Arthur 
 found himself separated from his antagonist by a rapid and 
 broad river, having no means, with his army, to effect the, 
 passage. 
 
 " Without an immediate decision, Soult might either retire 
 unmolested on Galicia, or attack Marshal Beresford with his. 
 whole force, and cross into Beira. To prevent this. Sir 
 Arthur planned and successfully executed the boldest passage 
 of a river on record. He detached a body of troops under 
 General Murray to Avintes, five miles up the river, where, if 
 boats should not be found, a ford would admit of the troops 
 crossing ; and General Sherbrook, with the guards, to the 
 ordinary ferry at Villa Nova, below the city ; whilst from the 
 Serra Convent, nearly opposite the town, he directed the 
 
ILLUSTRATED, 235 
 
 passage in person. The river was at this spot nearly three 
 hundred yards broad, and extremely rapid, with considerable 
 heights on the right bank. By the aid of the inhabitants, two 
 boats were brought over from the enemy's side ; and in these, 
 protected by the fire of a brigade of light guns, three compa- 
 nies of the buffs were ferried across. Soult, either despising 
 the effort, or believing it only a feint to draw his attention 
 from the main object, did not oppose the landing, but gave 
 time to Major-general Paget to ascend the bank and place the 
 troops in a formidable attitude in a ruined building, before he 
 attacked them. General Paget was early wounded, and the 
 command devolved on General Hill, who was warmly engaged 
 contesting the post, when the troops under General Murray 
 appeared in sight, marching on the enemy's left flank. The 
 guards were then pushed across, and the French precipitately 
 retired into the city. 
 
 " Soult now discovered that he had been out-manoeuvred, 
 and ordered the immediate retreat of his army; but the 
 British were already in the town and charging up the streets. 
 The confusion and precipitancy with which the French fled, 
 were far greater than can be readily imagined, and their panic 
 seemed to increase as they gained the open country. A single 
 squadron of the 14th dragoons, under Major Hervey, charged 
 and cut their passage through three battalions of infantry 
 marching in a hollow road, and returned triumphantly by 
 a similar boldness, bringing back many prisoners. Never 
 was the dhoute of an army more complete, when night put 
 an end to the pursuit, and gave the enemy a few. hours' 
 respite. 
 
 " The Portuguese," Colonel Jones observes, " are a people 
 peculiarly adapted for military exertion, the lower classes 
 being universally hardy, patient, and docile ; whilst those of 
 education, holding in remembrance the heroic deeds of their 
 ancestors, cherish strong feelings of military pride. . Those 
 
236 
 
 PORTUGAL 
 
 qualities, however, have not of late years been fully displayed, 
 as the government, conscious of its own limited resources, and 
 having a firm reliance on the friendship and power of England, 
 has always in the hour of danger trusted to her for support; 
 at this crisis, actuated by such feeling, it submitted entirely 
 to her guidance." 
 
 WINE AND TRAFFIC BOAT ON THP: DOURO. 
 

 ^_ i -s: 
 
 Sn.n-a^-cdl^v Jo.Teph Skdtc'i.ircni an cn'.iiiuil Tj> 
 
 THE ALOE ET]BL0SS0M,AF1Q) MYRTLE 'TKEF, Wl'-'ni PE^^DEST TTWE. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 237 
 
 LETTER IX. 
 
 O'er Vales that teem with fruits, romantic hills, 
 (Oh ! that such hills upheld a free-born race !) 
 Whereon to gaze the eye with joyaunce fills. 
 The trav'ller wends through many a pleasant place. 
 Though sluggards deem it but a foolish chase. 
 And marvel men should quit their easy chair. 
 The toilsome way and long, long league to trace. 
 Oh ! there is sweetness in the mountain air. 
 And life, that bloated ease can never hope to share. 
 
 Byron. 
 
 Valenfay, 1827. 
 
 Our experience hitherto of the accommodations aiForded to 
 travellers in the estalagems, or inns, it must be confessed, had 
 not been very promising; but the hospitality of our kind 
 friends provided every possible remedy for the discomforts 
 and deficiencies which we were destined to meet with on our 
 projected tour into the north. We set out upon our expe- 
 dition with a liteira, for the occasional use of one of the party, 
 who was rather indisposed ; an interpreter, — for it was not to 
 be expected that we should find French and English in 
 universal use in the remote parts of the provinces ; a sumpter- 
 mule, in addition to those required for the saddle ; a condessa, 
 or provision basket, furnished with every necessary for the 
 
238 PORTUGAL 
 
 table during the continuance of our journey ; and the protec- 
 tion of two very intelligent and honest g^iides. 
 
 It was the morning of a market day when we left Porto, 
 and thus we had presented to us a long string of peasantry 
 who were bringing the productions of their farms for sale in 
 the town. The women principally wore the black mantilla, 
 which resembles our mourner's cloak, and a white muslin 
 kerchief on the head, fastened under the chin, and falling in a 
 point on the back ; while the men, carrying their coats on the 
 cajado, a long pole extending to seven or eight feet, and having 
 the large knob at its extremity frequently cased with iron, 
 a formidable weapon, used with equal address against dog, 
 wolf, or robber, whenever the occasion is offered, marched 
 by the side of their industrious spouses, some of whom were 
 enjoying a nap at this early hour within the support of their 
 comfortable albardas, or packsaddles. The romantic character 
 of the neighbourhood of Porto entirely disappeared as we 
 advanced further up into the province, the rich and cheerful 
 features described in the preceding letter giving way to a 
 barren, sandy soil, or full of granite-gravel, and covered with 
 gloomy pine woods. The dust, too, was extremely painful to 
 our eyes ; and as the roads proved no better than water- 
 courses, our progress was painfully slow. 
 
 In the narrowest part of one of these lanes, (you will recol- 
 lect that we are speaking of the high road,) we met a family 
 party consisting of all the gradations, appareatly, from grand- 
 sire to grandson. The mules contrived to pass each other 
 tolerably well, with the exception of that one upon which our 
 subsistence depended. One or two of our live stock in the 
 way of fowls, were prematurely kijled by being crushed, and 
 the valuable condessa was most awkwardly squeezed ; so that, 
 had the contents been well pounded in a mortar, according to 
 the best culinary rules, they could not have been more effecr 
 tu ally compacted. Oranges were seasoned with salt; dried 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 239 
 
 meats moistened by unintentional libations of wine and spirits ; 
 a leg of mutton had the meat forced from the bone, which 
 was embedded in a loaf of new bread ; our genuine hyson we 
 found already sweetened to the taste, with an agreeable 
 smack of essence of peppermint, two bottles of which had 
 suffered then" contents to escape ; a little case of medicine 
 had broken also in the concussion, and in such a part of the 
 unfortunate basket as to deal its favours equally around to all 
 its brother travellers. Then came the liteiras, — and shall it 
 be said in opposition or conjunction? At last, however, with 
 more than Munchausen contrivance, the one was borne over 
 the other; and after an exchange of bows and looks that 
 spoke unutterable things, the innocent causes of our misfor- 
 tune pursued their journey, leaving us to the examination of 
 our shattered condessa. 
 
 A little philosophy, however, being exercised in re-packing 
 the now ridiculous medley of the condessa, we continued our 
 route for some miles in a solemn funereal silence, wofully 
 lamenting the mishap in our hearts, and yet not quite mute 
 with despair ; for we looked to better chances, made a virtue 
 of necessity, and followed the advice of Proteusj though given 
 under other circumstances : — • 
 
 Cease to lament for that thou canst not help, 
 And study help for that which thou lament'st. 
 Time is the nurse and breeder of all good. — 
 Hope is a lover's staff; walk hence with that, 
 And manage it against despairing thoughts. 
 
 Soon after this accident, we reached Villa Nova, where the 
 estalagem not being very inviting, we betook ourselves to the 
 churchyard, and spread the motley fragments of our provision- 
 basket on the steps of a stone cross, as subsequently, in nume- 
 rous instances, where the open air challenged our preference 
 to the filth and confined atmosphere of the way-side wine- 
 huts, which in these parts are universally distinguished by 
 
240 PORTUGAL 
 
 bearing an inscription on the sign of " Companhia G6ral do 
 Alto Douro." The bodies of the dead being invariably depo- 
 sited within the walls of churches in Portugal, no signs of 
 mortality interrupted in this situation the merriment of our 
 breakfast, nor did a living creature approach us, save a dozen 
 swine, which did the honours of the place, by grunting their 
 satisfaction at our arrival, and by obligingly aiding us to 
 dispatch the varieties of which the meal consisted. 
 
 Our road thence to Villa do Conde passed for a considerable 
 distance over a dreary tract of sand, and occasionally between 
 pine- woods; but the country improved as we approached 
 Mindenha and Azurar. We remarked that the system of 
 agriculture pursued, was to cultivate Indian corn or maize 
 in small inclosures, whilst in the hedge-rows we found vines 
 creeping up the oak and cork-trees ; laurustinus, strawberry- 
 trees, myrtles, the cystus laudinifera, and wild rosemary in 
 profusion, and numerous other shrubs and plants, not com- 
 monly seen in our country, growing luxuriantly in the open 
 air. In many places we have observed oxen treading oat the 
 corn on uncovered threshing-floors, as in Provence, made in 
 the fields ; and in one instance six men, three opposite to the 
 other, alternating with flails. In severgil instances the vines 
 are seen so trained on a frame, projecting at an angle from 
 inclosure walls, as completely to shade the road, and to delight 
 the eyes of the passenger with a splendid display of pendent 
 bunches of purple grapes ; a sight at once surprising and 
 agreeable to an inexperienced inhabitant of the north. 
 
 The industry of the inhabitants of this province is proverbial, 
 and the population is greater than in any other, with the ex- 
 ception of that in which Lisbon is situated. No one would 
 suppose that Portugal contained so many inhabitants as it 
 does, looking to the wide waste of heaths, and the districts of 
 land capable of cultivation, and yet wholly neglected. The 
 soil of the country would with well-managed industry produce 
 
TEAY"RJLLE!R5 ilF PORT :|'<-.iVl , 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 241 
 
 double, nay, treble what it is made to do under the present 
 wretched system, and would be of course equal to the support 
 of twice and thrice the number of its present inhabitants. The 
 population of Portugal exceeded five millions of souls in the 
 times of the Romans, and in the reign of Emmanuel the 
 Fortunate, the most brilliant period of the national history, 
 it amounted to more than four millions. The Minho pro- 
 vince alone, as Costigan remarks, would produce twice the 
 quantity of meat for the annual consumption of the na- 
 tion; but in truth, and in fact, the provinces altogether do 
 not produce more than is requisite for half a year's consump- 
 tion, and occasionally even less, and hence arise the forced 
 importations of rice, wheat, and bacalhao, or salt fish ; for 
 even the Sardinha fishery off the coast is not made as produc- 
 tive as it ought to be. With a diminished population and 
 resources infinitely beyond those of which use is made, Por- 
 tugal at times is exposed to the horrors of famine. " What a 
 delightful country might this be made and would soon become, 
 were it in the hands of the English, the Irish, or the French, 
 instead of the slovens who now possess it." 
 
 Much, indeed, cannot be said in favour of the state of Portu- 
 guese rural economy, since that important branch of a country's 
 wealth, " the agricultural interest," is so little protected by 
 the government. In Portugal, the most miserable life that is 
 led is that of the husbandman, who is ground down by op- 
 pressive taxes and a variety of extortions. The same routine 
 which was followed three hundred years since, is religiously 
 adhered to in the present day. If the farmer ploughs his field 
 at a certain period of the year, it is not that he possesses any 
 agricultural science to urge as his motive for so doing ; but 
 simply because it was the custom of his predecessors, he does 
 the same quite mechanically. An almanack with directions 
 for rural management, is an indispensable article in the hands 
 of the Portuguese farmer, and in fact his household god, to 
 Port. Q 
 
242 PORTUGAL 
 
 which as a ruling guide he can have recourse for information. 
 This or that field, for instance, was sown by his father on the 
 invocation day of some particular saint ; the almanack must 
 therefore be consulted, in order to ascertain the precise time 
 when that operation was commenced. In committing this or 
 that seed to a particular soil, the farmer is directed by no ex- 
 perimental knowledge, to use the term, of its peculiar nature 
 in determining his choice; and hence arises the indifferent 
 produce of grain, particularly of Indian corn or maize, which, 
 though allowed to be superior to the American and Italian, 
 might, it is not doubted, be produced of a still better quality, 
 were more pains taken and greater skill exerted in its cultiva- 
 tion. The same field receives similar seed year after year, 
 without any variation whatever in the kind, simply because it 
 was never made to produce any other grain ; and the farmer 
 being poor, cannot afford to run the hazard of a change ; for 
 should the speculation not succeed, he would not be able to 
 pay his rent ; and besides his loss, he would have to endure 
 the contemptuous ridicule of his neighbours, for placing confi- 
 dence in the suggestions of other people, and for deviating 
 from the long established customs of his forefathers. In short, 
 so firmly attached is the Portuguese farmer to old rules, and 
 owing to the want of encouraging institutions, so grossly igno- 
 rant in every respect, so oppressed by taxation, and in a state 
 of such utter destitution altogether, that it is not surprising, 
 though the climate is so remarkably fine, and the soil so sin- 
 gularly rich, that the agriculture of Portugal should be far 
 behind that of any country in Europe. 
 
 The maize or Indian corn is usually sown in March and 
 April, and its cultivation is attended with considerable trouble. 
 When the sprout is about the height of an inch, it is necessary 
 to move the earth round it with a hoe, in order that the root 
 may spread, and acquire vigour for the future plant, which 
 fails in being productive, if its growth is not assisted by 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 243 
 
 periodical rains, or if these rains fall superabundantly. When 
 the cane, or stalk, has attained to the height of three inches, 
 the earth about it must be thrown up again, and finally a third 
 trenching is required, when the plant has risen one foot above 
 the ground. This part of the labour is very severe, and 
 women and men are often known to fall exhausted by the 
 oppressive heat of the sun during its continuance. About the 
 same season of the year, when the corn-seed is committed to 
 the ground, flax is likewise sown, which comes up rapidly and 
 ripens very soon. The gathering in of this plant is attended 
 with many ceremonies and rejoicings ; but still very little is 
 produced in the country; in fact, no more than what the 
 farmers require for their own use. Great quantities of flax, it 
 is true, are annually spun, but the principal part of the raw 
 material is imported from the Baltic, and the manufactured 
 linen is still to a certain extent exported to the Brasils. Very 
 little wheat is produced in the northern provinces of Portugal ; 
 rye and Indian corn constituting the chief produce, with kidney 
 beans, which grow among the maize. 
 
 When speaking of the system of agriculture pursued in the 
 neighbourhood of Lisbon, Link observes, that " the genial tem- 
 perature of the air is very favourable to the cultivation of the 
 ground ; and it depends entirely on the quantity of rain, whe- 
 ther the year be fruitful or the contrary. Wheat is commonly 
 sown in the neighbourhood of Lisbon, but rye is scarce, and 
 only grown for cattle : barley is also sown ; but I never saw 
 any oats. This species of corn, which would easily grow on 
 indifferent soil, and on the heaths of Portugal, is wholly 
 neglected. The usual variety of wheat is that with long- 
 pointed calices, which requires the best soil. The fallows are 
 ploughed in autumn, para decruar as terras, a second time in 
 May, and lastly at seed-time, after the first rains in autumn 
 have rendered the earth soft. Light earth is dug, but the heavy 
 is ploughed with oxen, which throughout this peninsula attain 
 
244 PORTUGAL 
 
 a size, strength, and beauty, unknown in France, England, and 
 Germany. The harvest is in May, and the corn is threshed 
 as with us ; but in some parts it is trod out by horses or oxen, 
 for which purpose a floor is made in the fields. Manure is not 
 commonly used, or at most putrified plants are laid on. Rye 
 is often in ear in February and March, but is cut down before 
 it is ripe generally for fodder." The cultivation of potatoes in 
 Portugal is annually increasing, owing to the crop not being 
 considered generally as subject to the payment of tithes. The 
 friars, however, have endeavoured to appropriate to themselves 
 the tenth of the potato produce, and in some few cases with 
 success. At present, the larger proportion of what is con- 
 sumed, is imported from England and Ireland. " In March, 
 young green peas and beans are eaten, but in these warm 
 climates are not so well flavoured as with us, having always a 
 dryness and insipidity. The common people eat a particular 
 kind of lupin in great quantities. These are sown in fallows, 
 and the yellow pulse are soaked in salt and water, to destroy 
 their bitterness, before they are dressed. Rice is imported in 
 great quantities from Brasil, and is not cultivated in Portugal, 
 except in a few places, as for instance here and there in the 
 marshy lands of the province of Alemtejo, along the banks of 
 the Mondego and the Vouga. Great quantities of gourds 
 (abobras) are consumed ; and from one variety the fibrous in- 
 ternal part is cut out and preserved with sugar. Some of the 
 convents prepare this sweetmeat extremely well." 
 
 The labouring classes in the provinces, — *• the bold pea- 
 santry, their country's pride," — it is admitted by foreigner as 
 well as Portuguese, possess certain characteristic qualities of 
 mind which are rarely found among the natives of other Euro- 
 pean countries. The first striking virtue of this ill-ruled 
 people is their loyalty, — their faithful adherence to the cause 
 of their sovereign under every difiiculty, and against every 
 temptation to violate their allegiance to the legitimate govern- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 245 
 
 ment. The thought of the peasant's heart seems to have 
 invariably been — ^and what nobler sentiment can adorn and 
 dignify human nature ? — 
 
 Though perils did 
 
 Abound as thick as thought could make ''em, and 
 Appear in forms as horrid ; yet my duty, 
 As doth a rock against the chidiiig flood. 
 Should the approach of this wild river break, 
 And stand unshaken. 
 
 King Henry VIII. 
 
 The Portuguese peasants are naturally patient, civil, and 
 good-natured, remarkable for hospitality, and exceedingly 
 attached to their superiors. Content with a little, they fre- 
 quently evince, in the hour of danger and adversity, a fortitude 
 against their fate which almost amounts to a compensation 
 for the positive loss of prosperity and independence. In their 
 rural enjoyments and freedom from care, and buoyancy of 
 spirit, they resemble the light-hearted Italians, and other people 
 of the south. Throughout the two interesting provinces of the 
 Minho and the Beira, the toil of husbandry, as we have inva- 
 riably observed, is alleviated by the song and the dance. 
 
 While, loose to festive joy, the country round 
 Laughs with the loud sincerity of mirth, 
 Shook to the wind their cares. 
 
 Thomson. 
 
 When well commanded, and treated as a man ought to be, 
 who lends his services to his country, no peasant on earth can 
 make a better soldier, more docile, faithful, and obedient, than 
 the Portuguese; and the experience of the Peninsular War has 
 sufficiently shown how superior " the contemptible dastards" 
 of Lusitania are to the proud Castilian, and how unjust the 
 distinction is, which has been drawn by Lord Byron between 
 the peasantry of the two countries, — 
 
246 PORTUGAL 
 
 For proud each peasant as the noblest duke : 
 Well doth the Spanish hind the difference know 
 'Twixt him and Lusian slave, the lowest of the low. 
 
 Link does the Portuguese nation the justice to remark, that 
 " the politeness, the easy, gay, and friendly manners of the 
 common people, prejudice a stranger more in favour of the 
 Portuguese than of the Spaniards ; nor is this judgment 
 altered so long as the traveller is only acquainted with the 
 lower classes, though he forms an opposite judgment as soon 
 as he begins to know the higher orders. We met with good and 
 ready attendance, and decent fare ; and our pretty and good- 
 natured landlady had that animation of manner, that speaking 
 intelligence of countenance, and that well-bred politeness, 
 which are so striking in this nation. What a difference 
 between Badajoz and Elvas in this respect ! I shall often have 
 occasion to speak of the common people in Portugal ; and I 
 often look back with pleasure to the many happy hours I have 
 spent with that friendly nation ." Costigan, too, justly observes, 
 that " in Portugal the lower you descend in rank, the higher 
 the personal character of the people rises and imposes upon 
 you, and the more you are won by the courteous and affable 
 manners which distinguish the common people from those of 
 any other country. The higher classes are as inferior to the 
 Spaniards, as the common people excel them." 
 
 " The charge of indolence and slothfulness," to add another 
 testimony to those already cited in favour of the character of 
 the Portuguese peasant, says the author of " Portuguese Life," 
 " has been indiscriminately laid against the whole of the people 
 of Portugal, by persons who have precipitately drawn their 
 conclusions from the samples of the lower orders seen in Lis- 
 bon ; but any one of common judgment ought to be aware 
 that the meagre and bloated inhabitants of a capital can never 
 offer a just criterion whereby to form an accurate idea of the 
 physical or moral peculiarities of aiay nation. The Portuguese 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 247 
 
 peasantry may justly repel the charge of indolence, for their 
 distinguishing characteristics are industry, patience, privation, 
 intrepidity, and courage. They only stand in need of a 
 government calculated to call forth in a greater degree their 
 natural good qualities. I w^ould not advocate as warmly, or 
 in fact at all, some other classes of Portuguese — I mean the 
 priests and magistrates ; for whatever measure of corruption in 
 every respect this world can contain, is to be found to super- 
 fluity in those orders." 
 
 Many conjectures have been hazarded respecting the ves- 
 tiges of the feudal system still to be found in Portugal. The 
 learned Portuguese, we understand, are much divided in 
 opinion, whether or not it was ever really established in Por- 
 tugal. Plausible reasons have been urged for and against the 
 supposition ; but still, if it is admitted to be a matter of doubt 
 and uncertainty whether the feudal system was ever fully 
 established and generally followed in this country, it is quite 
 clear that the feudal law was, to a considerable extent, par- 
 tially received, and that to this day sufficient traces of its 
 existence are to be found, and those of a character not to be 
 mistaken. 
 
 The " jus vitse et necis," or law of life and death, and the 
 attachment of serfs to the soil, (" servi," or " adscripti glebse,") 
 probably never obtained in Portugal; but certain rights, 
 claimed and exercised by the aristocracy over the people, 
 prove that, though the feudal system should never have been 
 positively established, yet whatever portion of the code could 
 be adopted, was actually employed. The Portuguese sove- 
 reigns have frequently rewarded the successful services of 
 their followers with goods, lands, and domains, accompanied 
 by certain rights of lordship, more or less extensive ; but 
 these never comprised the full extent of privileges attached to 
 feudal possessions, such as we find to have been the case in 
 France, in England, throughout the north and the east of 
 
248 PORTUGAL 
 
 Europe, and in the different provinces or kingdoms of Spain- 
 Secular lords, ecclesiastical bodies, such as the chapters of 
 cathedral churches and monasteries for both sexes, together 
 with bishops, have received and enjoyed these royal conces- 
 sions, the most ample of which have always fallen to the share 
 of the convents. Still, however, not only have the powers 
 accorded with these grants been invariably limited, but the 
 royal authority has, in numerous instances, repossessed itself 
 of the greater and more important portion of them, thus 
 leaving to the lords merely an empty title, with some few 
 rights to the personal services of those engaged in the cultiva- 
 tion of the soil, and to certain revenues arising from the sale 
 of its productions. Every other advantage almost of feudal 
 domination, has been by degrees recovered from them, and 
 retained by the crown. 
 
 It is true that, by its abridgment of the power and privileges 
 of the nobles, the crown increased its influence with the 
 people, to whom the change of system was productive of some 
 benefit ; but still the ancient constitution of the state suf- 
 fered from the practice, and at length the nobility were left 
 without the means of maintaining their rank and dignity. 
 The coriimonalty remained, for a certain period, in the posses- 
 sion of a greater degree of liberty ; but at length, borne down 
 by the overwhelming weight and influence of the crown, and 
 having lost the support of a third order in the state, they in 
 their turn succumbed, and thus by degrees the oldest consti- 
 tutional government in Europe became absolute and despotic. 
 
 Some traces, however, as we have already remarked, still 
 remain of the ancient form of government, and of the feudal 
 code of laws. The mode in which the rents are paid in 
 several districts, might be cited in proof of their being still 
 discoverable. The greater part of the landholders, for instance, 
 enjoy their possessions under that peculiar species of contract, 
 termed in the canon and civil law "emphyteusis," or usufruc- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 249 
 
 tuary enjoyment ; and the cultivator of the soil, in addition to 
 the yearly consideration which he may have engaged to pay 
 to the owner of the fee, has to make over the third, the fourth, 
 or the fifth of the value of its produce, in money or in kind, to 
 the " dominus eminens," (the lord of the district, or manor, as 
 we might call him,) in acknowledgment of his superior rights, 
 or paramountship, over the domain. 
 
 Still there are to be found many districts which are totally 
 exempt from the payment of this feudal impost, and which 
 are only subject to the obligation of tithes, and where the far- 
 mer simply pays the proprietor of the soil a certain fixed sum, 
 which shall have been determined upon between them, for a 
 definite period of time. " Prazos," or leases of lands, are 
 likewise granted for the term of the natural lives of the 
 holders ; and others again upon so many lives, instead of the 
 usual system, for so many years. But, after all, the modes of 
 leasing are so various, and so widely diifer from each other, in 
 each province, in each comarca or district, and, in short, 
 almost in the case of every individual farm, that it is altogether 
 impossible to give a full and detailed description of the whole, 
 and still less to present, in so narrow and confined a space, 
 even a general view of them. 
 
 Now, therefore, to pursue our route ; — descending a steep hill 
 into Azurar, we crossed by a wooden bridge the Rio Ave, on 
 whose right bank, and not far from its mouth, is situated Villa 
 do Conde, a small commercial town, where the greater pro- 
 portion of small Portuguese merchant-vessels are built, and 
 whose population may amount to about four thousand souls. 
 The abutments and some of the piers only, of what must have 
 been a few years since a handsome stone bridge, remain at 
 present, — a very high tide and a winter flood having concurred 
 in effecting its destruction. There is a fine open quay ex- 
 tending almost to the entrance of the river, which, as in most 
 instances on the Spanish and Portuguese coasts, is protected 
 
250 PORTUGAL 
 
 by a small fort. We observed some vessels on the stocks, of 
 the burden of from sixty to seventy tons. Placed on a height, 
 w^hich immediately overlooks the ruins of the former bridge, 
 the royal nunnery of Santa Clara arrests the attention of the 
 traveller by the magnificence of its structure. A shield on the 
 pediment of the building carries the armorial bearing of the 
 convent, " Santa Clara holding a cross in her hands, and lean- 
 ing against an elephant." This virgin and abbess received the 
 habit of her order, when only fourteen years old, from St. 
 Francis. The convent affords a comfortable asylum to the 
 destitute daughters of the poor and proud nobility of the pro- 
 vince, v\rhose rank would be degraded by an alliance with 
 persons of inferior birth, however wealthy, and who therefore 
 consign their children to secure incarceration within these 
 peaceful walls. 
 
 The number of professed nuns is fifty, and they enjoy a very 
 considerable revenue, amounting to fifteen thousand crowns 
 annually, according to the statement of the individual who 
 introduced us into the chapel, and who was himself a non- 
 professing Franciscan monk. 
 
 The chapel, which is in the form of a short cross, is kept 
 with singular neatness, and worthy the delicate taste of its 
 noble possessors. One half of the nave is divided off" by a 
 screen of about twenty feet in height, which is surmounted by 
 an iron grating richly gilt, and which reaches to the roof of the 
 chapel. The nuns assemble in the apartment behind it, and 
 without being seen, can join in the solemn service of the mass, 
 and unite the melody of their voices with the loud pealing 
 anthem sustained by the choir of seculars in the body of the 
 chapel. In the centre of the screen, and upon a level with 
 the pavement of the chapel, there is a large square window, 
 with a strong double grating of iron, richly gilt, which fronts 
 the high altar, and where the nuns receive the sacrament, and 
 are allowed occasionally to hold communication with their 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 251 
 
 i5elatives. About the pulpit, the organ, and altar rails, we 
 observed a good deal of curious carving profusely overlaid with 
 gilding. Upon the left hand there is a small but elegant se- 
 pulchral sacella, in which, within small glass cases, are depo- 
 sited the remains, under monumental effigies, of the royal 
 founder of the convent, Don Alphonso, son of the sixth king 
 of Portugal of that name, and his wife Donna Theresa Mar- 
 tine. Upon the side of the tomb, our Saviour's passion is re- 
 presented in very high relief, and in a white stone ; and on the 
 other side of the chapel opposite are the tombs, with recum- 
 bent figures of their two children. In the southern part of 
 the building we found a tomb and monumental effigies of a 
 very early date, judging from the rude execution of its sculp- 
 ture, but in such a complete state of decay, that no satisfactory 
 note could be made of it. There appeared to have been the 
 recumbent figure upon it of a knight, covered with a coat of 
 steel network, and having a sword girt round his loins, with a 
 lion reposing at his feet, and an elephant below the feet of a 
 female effigy. These were probably meant to represent royal 
 personages. 
 
 The aqueduct, which runs parallel with the coast, and ex- 
 tends upon nearly a thousand arches in an indirect line for 
 upwards of two leagues, to the neighbouring mountains, is a 
 surprisingly magnificent object. The supply of water, how- 
 ever, is said to be deficient both in quantity and quality, the 
 first failure being worse even than the last, where the heat is 
 so great, and so many ablutions are required, Costigan states 
 that this aqueduct owes its origin to a lady abbess of the con- 
 vent having a brother in command over the district in 1640, 
 whose duty it was to forward recruits to the army, then sta- 
 tioned on the Spanish frontier, but who preferred contributing 
 to the convenience of the nuns, rather than to the augmenta- 
 tion of his sovereign's forces, and so released all those persons 
 
252 PORTUGAL 
 
 from the effect of the conscription, who were willing to remain 
 at home and assist in its construction. 
 
 Forwarding previously a letter of recommendation, which 
 had been given us by a distinguished person at Porto, to the 
 " Dignissimo D. Abbade de Fonte Boa, por especial rnerc^," 
 a deputy in the Cortes, we continued our route at first over a 
 more open and interesting country, but by roads so execrably 
 bad, that the footing of our mules was rendered very insecure. 
 This was succeeded by a gloomy pine-forest to the left, through 
 the open spaces of which occasional glimpses were obtained of 
 the sea gleaming in the distance ; and in the direction of 
 north-east on our right, towards Braga and Guimaraens, a 
 lofty Serra broke the line of the horizon, resembling in its 
 general character the appearance of the Malvern range. The 
 intervening country seemed to be well cultivated, and to 
 abound with agricultural wealth. After a tedious day's 
 journey, the blue smoke curling upwards from the chimnies of 
 the worthy Abbade's house, gave us the welcome notice of our 
 approach to Fonte Boa, and of the hospitalities which awaited 
 our arrival. The Abbade had for some hours been looking x)ut 
 for us, and descendiiig with great kindness the flight of steps 
 in front of his house, attended by four or five gentlemen in 
 mourning, to introduce us under his roof, ushered us through 
 large folding gates into an incbsed court, on one side of which 
 were ranged in old manerial style the grange and stable build- 
 ings ; while, round three sides of the square ran a covered 
 gallery, and underneath were the rooms for domestic purposes, 
 such as store-houses and cellars. The party in the house 
 consisted of our excellent host, his brothers, a friend, and the 
 assistant Cur6, who met us at tea in a spacious hall, as soon 
 as we had laid aside our travelling attire, and had performed 
 the necessary ablutions. 
 
 "We soon learnt the cause of the family being assembled and 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 253 
 
 dressed in black, which was the recent death of the Abbade's 
 father. The kindness of manner, however, evinced towards 
 us by the whole party, speedily relieved us from all sense of 
 intrusion under the unfortunate circumstance ; nor was there 
 anything wanting to render our reception most extremely 
 agreeable. In the course of the evening the Abbade led us to 
 a balcony upon the eastern side of his house, which overlooked 
 a garden laid out in a formal manner, and commanded a fine 
 view of the mountain range running southward from the neigh- 
 bourhood of Guimaraens and of the fort, which crowns the 
 summit of the Monte de Francada, a military station of consi- 
 derable importance. The view was much in the style of the 
 scenery about Bagneres de Bigorre in the lower Pyrenees. 
 The valley is richly wooded and intersected by the Rio Ca- 
 vado, on whose left bank the vine-clad village of Fonte Boa is 
 prettily situated. The full moon had just risen, and "slept 
 sweetly" on the hills which fronted us; 
 
 - the floor of heaven 
 
 Was thick inlaid with patines of bright gold ; 
 
 and never was a more lovely scene beheld. From the ele- 
 vated height on which the fort is situated, the city of Porto 
 may be discovered in clear weather, and the Atlantic ocean 
 generally, being only twelve miles distant. 
 
 The inhabitant of the Minho is very proud, and justly so, of 
 his fertile and beautiful province. It was highly pleasing to 
 observe the dark eye of our benevolent friend sparkle with 
 delight, as he proudly pointed out its rocks, woods, forests, 
 rivers, hills, and mountains ; and dilated upon its varied beau- 
 ties, rich agricultural productions, and inexhaustible fertility. 
 Twice in the exultation of his heart he repeated the address 
 of Soult to the French troops, when showing- them from the 
 summit of the Senhor do Monte, near Braga, the rich vale 
 
254 PORTUGAL 
 
 below extending to the shores of the sea, by way of excitmg 
 their thirst for conquest, as Hannibal is said to have disco- 
 vered to his army, from the summit of Mount Cenis, the fertile 
 plains of Italy ; Venez, soldats ! venez voir k paradis qui vous 
 attend. The province contains two important cities, Porto 
 and Braga, which is considered its capital ; twenty-six towns, 
 of which the principal are Vianna, Guimaraens, Ponte de 
 Lima, Villa do Conde, Caminha, Mon^fao, Barcelos and Va- 
 lenf a ; two episcopal and five collegiate churches, and more 
 than five hundred parishes ; a population of nearly a million, 
 which is nine times as many as that of the Alemtejo ; nu- 
 merous rivers, some of which, Costigan asserts, produce the 
 only salmon to be had in Portugal, and which is sent even as 
 far as Madrid. Over the Minho and Douro, which form the 
 northern and southern boundaries of the province, more than 
 two hundred stone bridges facilitate mercantile communica- 
 tions, and after these the principal rivers are the Rio Lima, 
 the Rio Tamega, the Rio Ave, and the Rio Cavado, which 
 runs by Barcelos, and falls into the sea at Espozende. 
 
 In a military point of view, this province is of great import- 
 ance. Amarante may be said to be the key of Porto. The 
 fortified places on the Minhb are Caminha, Villa Nova, Va- 
 lenpa, La Pela, Mon^aS, and Melga^fo, the northernmost 
 " villa" of Portugal, not far from Ribadavia, and Orense in 
 the province of Galicia. Chains of mountains and numerous 
 rivers, such as the Rio Coura, the Rio Lima, the Rio Homem, 
 the Rio Caldo, Cabado, and Tamega, with the Deste, the 
 Dave, and the Visela, form the natural defence of the northern 
 frontier. The country is more open to the north-east of the 
 upper part of the Lima, and consequently more pains have 
 been taken in erecting fortifications for its defence. The na- 
 tural difficulties which present themselves to the progress of an 
 invading army, have at all times secured this province from the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 255 
 
 Castilian grasp, the defiles and impenetrable passes of the moun- 
 tains aiding the deathless hate borne towards the Spaniard by 
 the hardy Lusitanian. 
 
 After listening with pleasure to our host's animated enume- 
 ration of the principal features of his province, our conversa- 
 tion turned upon European and Transatlantic politics. Suffi- 
 cient French was known by the party to render our communi- 
 cations perfectly easy. There was some difficulty in managing 
 to satisfy their queries as to our twice-told tale of Romish 
 restitution to civil power in England ; but not so much to 
 meet their inquiries about the Calvinistic sect, of whom a 
 correct account was given them. We endeavoured to make it 
 clear that the British government was not bound by treaty to 
 interfere with their domestic arrangements ; that the English 
 troops in Portugal were intended principally as a check against 
 the political views of the court at Madrid, and partly as a 
 counterpoise to the possession by the French of certain strong 
 places in Spain. In accordance with an old rule of hospita^ 
 lity, still observed in some parts of the country, the Abbade 
 placed his guests in arm-chairs at the upper end of the supper- 
 table, which was abundantly supplied with a great variety of 
 dishes ; and in addition to the substantial part of the meal, 
 fruits and sweetmeats were served to us in profusion, and a 
 biscuit called Inglezes, better even than the far-famed Leman 
 ever compounded. The prying curiosity of the domestics 
 convinced us that an Englishman was rather a rara avis in this 
 remote part of the province. The health of the British sove- 
 reign was enthusiastically toasted in most excellent wine, and 
 the night had far a'dvanced, — indeed it was almost morning, it 
 must be confessed, before we could break up our agreeable 
 conversation and retire to rest. The dignified manners, intel- 
 ligence, and liberal feelings of the enlightened Abbade, gave 
 a charm to our visit at Fonte Boa, which can never be for'- 
 gotten. 
 
256 PORTUGAL 
 
 The whole party attended us to our Liteira and the mules, 
 when we quitted the house, and with no empty words of 
 parting compliment ; for we found afterwards that our liberal 
 host was resolved that we should carry away some substantial 
 proofs of his munificent hospitality in the complete renewal of 
 the contents of our shattered condessa. We crossed to the 
 right bank of the Cavado in a ferry-boat, about two miles 
 above Espozende, to Barca do Lago, where a detachment of 
 Silveira's rebel troops had appeared in the late disturbances. 
 Finding, however, the opposite heights already in the occu- 
 pation of the constitutional forces, they did not attempt the 
 passage of the river, but made a rapid retreat, first destroying 
 all the boats, in order that they might retire unpursued. A 
 granite column, erected above the landing-place, and bearing 
 the date of August 21, 1766, designates the ferry as the pro- 
 perty, by royal grant, of a fidalgo, whose quinta we soon 
 passed to our left, bordering on the skirts of a pine forest, 
 which emitted a strong resinous odour under the influence of 
 a broiling sun. From the high ground above the ferry, the 
 view up the river, which winds in the direction of the valley 
 extended at the base of the Serra, is perfectly beautiful. For 
 a considerable distance our road passed through a pine forest, 
 the indigenous production of this sandy district, occasional 
 views of the sea being caught through the vistas to the left. 
 On the right, a line of rugged, bare mountains rose above the 
 valley, whose sides were covered with masses of rock spread 
 over their surface in wild confusion, as though they had been 
 the effect of a volcanic eruption. Never was beheld such a 
 picture of desolation. The scenery was even more wild than 
 that of the Serra de Cintra. A few goats and herdsmen 
 appeared to be the only occupants of this dreary desert, save 
 a hermit, whose cell, perched on one of the highest peaks of 
 the range, contributed more forcibly to mark its solitude. 
 Nor were the horrors of the wilderness diminished by the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 257 
 
 frequent occurrence of crosses on the road-side, recording 
 to the passing traveller the midnight scenes of sanguinary- 
 murders : — 
 
 And here and there, as up the crags you spring, 
 Mark many rude-carved crosses near the path : 
 Yet deem not these devotion's offering — 
 These are memorials frail of murderous wrath : 
 For whereso'er the shrieking victim hath 
 Poured forth his blood beneath the assassin's knife. 
 Some hand erects a cross of mouldering lath ; 
 And grove and glen with thousand such are rife 
 Throughout this purple land, where law secures not life. 
 
 Byron. 
 
 The heat of the day compelled us once more to have re- 
 course to the shady side, and the stone cross of a solitary 
 churchyard, situated in the midst of a pine forest, where some 
 hours of repose were acceptable both to the mules and our- 
 selves. Link, in speaking of the beauty and strength both of the 
 mule and the ass in this country, adds, that " the inhabitants 
 of this peninsula have a peculiar and very excellent kind of 
 stirrups, being a very stiff wooden clog, open behind. The 
 two principal pieces of wood form a sharp point before, and 
 the two sides are closed by triangular pieces. The opening is 
 so wide, that the rider cannot be entangled if the animal 
 stumble ; nor can his foot be crushed, or hurt, if he fall on his 
 side. It is indeed surprising that these useful stirrups begin 
 to be less esteemed than the more ornamental stirrups im- 
 ported from abroad. In Spain and Portugal, single travellers 
 are often accompanied by a servant, who sometimes rides on 
 an ass, but more frequently runs on foot ; and these runners 
 are often known to go eleven or twelve miles in this manner. 
 We have also seen Calefeiros, or chaise-drivers, for several 
 hours running beside their mules, and continually in a trot. 
 It is indeed surprising what fatigue the Spaniards and Portu- 
 guese can bear, how temperately they live, and what heat and 
 Port. R 
 
258 PORTUGAL 
 
 cold they can endure. Nor must we expect to find, among 
 the south-Europeans, any weak, effeminate men ; for, on the 
 contrary, they are perhaps more enterprising and more perse- 
 vering than the inhabitants of the north, as they would no 
 doubt show, would but their governments permit." 
 
 Leaving Darque to the left, we crossed the Ponte de Cas- 
 tella de Neyva, in the midst of scenery, which for its beauty, 
 grandeur, and extent, might well be compared with the more 
 favoured regions of the Alps ; and then through a deep gorge 
 which led up to a mountain track, in most places not affording 
 a greater breadth for the footing of the mules than that of a 
 mere sheep-path. From this height we first obtained a view 
 of the pretty town of Vianna, defended towards the sea by Fort 
 S. Jago. The valley and lower range of hills are covered with 
 pine trees, running behind which is seen in the distance a 
 long line of bare, denticulated summits, which fall upon the 
 sea. The town of Vianna is situated at the southern extremity 
 of this range of mountains, and upon ground deserted by the 
 ocean. The road now wound down between countless monti- 
 cules of sand, thrown up by the violence of the westerly 
 winds, some of which were totally bare, and others covered 
 with the pinus maritima, to the left bank of the Lima, which 
 we crossed in a very broad part by an extremely long wooden 
 bridge of nearly half a mile in length, like the long causeway 
 over the lake of Mexico, running for some distance in a 
 straight line to about its centre, where it makes a sharp angle, 
 and turns directly to the town upon the right bank. The 
 evaporation from the sands at intervals, in consequence of the 
 violent heat, resembled the smoke which rises from fires re- 
 cently lighted. 
 
 The whole length of Vianna fronts the Lima, from which it 
 is divided by a broad and handsome quay. It was formerly a 
 port of considerable trade, even in the export of the Minho 
 and Douro wines to England ; but owing to the accumulation 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 259 
 
 of the sand at the bar, only vessels of small burden can now 
 enter the harbour — these indeed in no great number, and 
 chiefly of the Newfoundland fish trade. The neighbourhood 
 is romantic and pretty, and the view from the Dominican 
 Convent and the two chapels situated on a rising ground, 
 which overlooks an open plain extending to the gates of the 
 fort, is singularly beautiful, particularly to the left up the 
 river, in the direction of Ponte de Lima and its neighbouring 
 Serra. The town was founded by King Alphonso III., who 
 gave it the privileges of a villa in 1253. The fort, which 
 immediately commands the bar, must have been a place of 
 considerable strength, being defended by five bastions, and a 
 deep ditch worked in the rock, and standing in a very elevated 
 situation ; but when we walked round its ramparts, the place 
 seemed nearly dismantled, and there were only three guns 
 mounted, one of which, pointed to the mouth of the river, was 
 English. The Governador das Armas of the Minho resides 
 here. It is the second Corregimento of the province, a Co- 
 marca town, and its population cannot be less than nine 
 thousand souls. The fishery off the coast forms at present its 
 principal resource ; and a fair is annually held towards the 
 end of August, to which the finest mules in the country are 
 brought for sale. 
 
 A Benedictine Convent is situated to the north-east of 
 the town, and the same arrangements are made in the chapel 
 for the concealment of the nuns during their attendance at 
 mass, as at Villa do Conde, but here upon a level with the 
 choir. A door, doubly secured with bolts and locks, opens in 
 the centre of the grating, through which the sisterhood receive 
 among them a noviciate, upon whom the world is at that 
 awful moment closed for ever. The pulpit and side-altars 
 are remarkable for bearing a profpsion of carving and gilding. 
 We found tolerable accommodations at the Dois Amigos, but 
 in so narrow a street that we could have shaken hands, had 
 
260 PORTUGAL 
 
 we been so disposed, with our opposite neighbours. A prin- 
 cipal person from the police-office came to us at night, when 
 we were at supper, with our passport, and pointed out an 
 informality in it, owing to the carelessness of the civil autho- 
 rities at Porto, which might have procured our imprisonment, 
 had not the kindly disposition of our friend been warmed by a 
 cup of wine and a small present, to make us the gratifying 
 assurance that he had too great a respect for the English 
 nation to offer us the slightest hindrance. We detained the 
 civil old gentleman for some hours, and it was late when he 
 rose to depart, which he did with protestations of profound 
 respect for our listening with patience to the recital of his 
 own family circumstances, and the many grievances of his 
 declining days. 
 
 The distance from Vianna to Caminha is three leagues, pass- 
 ing by Tifa, across the Rio Amora ; Lagarta, beyond the Rio 
 Carresso, and Arioza ; and thence two leagues of road on the 
 left bank of the Rio Minho lead to Villa Nova da Cerveira, 
 by Lanhelas, Anhel, Gondarim, and Lobos. The town and 
 fortress of Valenf a is about the same distance from Caminha, 
 and the road runs through Campos, Villaraeam, Cornes, and 
 San Pedro das Torres, beautifully situated above the banks of 
 the river. 
 
 Upon our quitting Vianna, we wound up the narrow streets 
 of the town, and crossing the open space lying between the 
 fort and the chapels already noticed, we directed our course 
 on a line of road above the sea-shore, from which we were 
 separated by inclosures of maize or Indian wheat ; while upon 
 our right ran a range of hills overlooking a valley of consi- 
 derable extent, which was enlivened by an almost continuous 
 line of pretty country residences, built something in the Ita- 
 lian style, and standing in the midst of gardens remarkable 
 for their verdant appearance. Such is the fertility of the soil 
 in this district, that the farmer usually takes three crops from 
 
A ]F;.'(.">A]I:) ^'^II■)E ALTAK T'(;) JRE^EB^ ..ULM^S FR'COT TRAVELLERS . 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 261 
 
 his grounds ; first, grass or turnips, in the moist season of 
 winter, for his cattle ; the second consisting of rye, and 
 sometimes barley ; and the third of Indian corn. Sea-weed 
 forms the principal manure employed in dressing the lands, 
 and during our progress it appeared as if all the women and 
 children of the province were engaged on the shore in collect- 
 ing with long rakes, or forming into ricks, when dried on the 
 sands, this valuable "argai^a;" just as we have seen the pea- 
 santry of our Norman isles gathering the " vreck," to serve as 
 manure for their fields. While the women were employed in 
 this laborious occupation, their husbands, as good sailors as 
 industrious farmers, were off the coast engaged in fishing, the 
 maize having been weeded, and not being yet ripe for the 
 sickle to detain them on shore. 
 
 Road-side chapels, with pictures of souls in purgatory, most 
 horribly executed, and a box to receive the passenger's alms, 
 — " Pelas Almas dos que mais exercitarao as obras de miseri- 
 cordia com os proximos," — everywhere challenged our com- 
 passion ; and we frequently met with the figure of our Saviour, 
 as large as life, on a lofty cross, rudely sculptured and as 
 rudely painted, with the accompaniment of the sacrifical 
 implements. 
 
 A farmer boasted to us at a wine-house, where our 
 muleteers stopped to refresh their beasts, how nicely he had 
 tricked a priest out of his gains upon a vow which he had 
 performed. It appeared that he had taken his cattle to show 
 them to some image of Nossa Senhora, and to have them 
 blessed for the current year ; but upon the sacerdotal demand 
 of the usual fee, the fellow declared that he had done as much 
 as he intended, and that payment of money formed no part of 
 the ceremony. 
 
 The retreat of Silveira was scrawled everywhere on the very 
 pavement over which we passed, and in the most opprobrious 
 manner, by some wit, who evidently had read or heard of 
 
262 PORTUGAL 
 
 Sancho's misfortune, when the Knight of La Mancha advanced 
 to the demolition of the mills. 
 
 Arrived at Caminha, which is situated on the left bank of 
 the Minho, with a population of less than two thousand souls, 
 and passing under a long wall which incloses the quinta and 
 buildings of the Convent of Santa Clara, we went immediately 
 to report ourselves to the Juiz de Fora, and thence to the 
 house of Senhor Joz6 Manoel de Carvalho, a linen-draper and 
 an official character, who received us very kindly, and con- 
 ducted us round the ramparts of the fort, where there was the 
 imposing force of two guns, — for even these twain had been 
 sufficient to frighten into immediate retreat the cowardly de- 
 tachment of wretches sent against the town by their mad 
 general, the Marquess of Chaves, — and then to the Matrise, 
 or principal church of the place, where we found a figure of 
 the infant Jesus, dressed in the habit of a Franciscan monk, 
 and placed in the arms of a colossal image of St. Christopher. 
 The lofty and herbless mountains in Galicia, which front the 
 town, presenting a very bold outline, so encircle the river here, 
 as to give it the appearance of a lake. The people of this 
 town have the best disposition towards liberal institutions, and 
 it was gratifying to hear an officer of very high rank, who 
 pressed us to accept the hospitalities which his house affijrded, 
 declare most energetically his hope that Portuguese mothers 
 would teach tbeir children what a debt of gratitude was due 
 from the nation to the British people, for their timely inter- 
 ference against Spanish aggression. 
 
 We quitted the town by the northern gate, attended to the 
 ferry by our kind friends, whose sentiments had so much 
 delighted us, where we crossed the Couro, which here pours its 
 waters into the Minho. A narrow causeway of considerable 
 length led up to a road which ran upon a high ground parallel 
 with the river, and frequently under canopies formed by vines. 
 The scenery upon the Spanish side of the river is quite equal. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 263 
 
 in grandeur and sublimity, to the views upon the Rhone 
 about Valence, Mt. Pilat and Orange. Were the itinerant of 
 the Rhone to visit the lovely banks of the Minho, he would 
 find an abundance of rich subjects for his own elegant pencil, 
 and perhaps even acknowledge their all-surpassing beauty. 
 
 At Villa Nova da Cerveira, an old civilian shouldered his 
 musket at the gates with the utmost pomp of circumstance, 
 and, standing in the iniddle of the entrance, demanded in a 
 fierce manner our business and passports, and then ordered us 
 off in quick time to the magistrate. The bathos of this military 
 display by a member of a town garrison, was truly amusing, 
 and did not frighten us. The town is unimportant, and con- 
 tains not more than about a thousand inhabitants. Taking 
 leave of the military governor, we proceeded on our route to 
 Valenfa, the glories of a splendid sun-set giving a brilliant 
 effect to the mountain scenery around us. The gates of the 
 fortress were closed before we arrived, but fortunately we had 
 been provided with a letter of recommendation to the governor, 
 " lUustrissimo Senhor Tenente Rei da Prafa, &c. &c." which 
 procured our admission, after a short delay, within the walls, 
 and to comfortable quarters at the Estalagem R!6al. 
 
 TWO MONKS SEEN AT TUY IN SPAIN. 
 
 PAR ET IMPAll. 
 
264 PORTUGAL 
 
 LETTER X. 
 
 Where Lusitania, and her sister meet, 
 
 Deem ye what bounds the rival realms divide ? 
 
 Or ere the Jealous Queens of nations greet, 
 
 Doth Minho interpose his mighty tide ? 
 
 Or dark Sierras rise in craggy pride ? 
 
 Or fence of art, like China's vasty v^all ? 
 
 Childe Harold. 
 
 Braga, 1827. 
 
 The fortified town of Valenf a was founded by the soldiers 
 of the Roman general Viriatus on its present site, which is 
 considerably elevated above the Minho, commanding a vast 
 extent of country on every side, the passage of the river, and 
 the once proud fortress of Tuy, in the Spanish province of 
 Galicia, but which is now almost completely dismantled. The 
 rampart and bastions of Valenf a are at present kept up in very 
 good condition ; and since the apprehension was entertained of 
 an attack by the rebel troops of Silveira, in order to prevent 
 the place from being taken by surprise, they have been further 
 protected by a very strong stoccade headed with iron points, 
 and which has been carried entirely round the town. A large 
 portion of the cannon in the different batteries are light pieces 
 recently supplied by the governor of Porto, to enable the gar- 
 rison to withstand any sudden advance of the enemy. The 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 265 
 
 prospect from the flagstaff in the centre of the fort, over the 
 Minho to the rival town of Tuy, and the fine lofty range of 
 mountains which run behind it, is particularly striking. The 
 eastern curtain appears to be the strongest, and the ascent of 
 the insulated hill on that side to be the steepest. The number 
 of men of whom the garrison at present consists, does ' not 
 amount to more than one thousand, and these belong to the 
 9th and 21st regiments, the latter being attached to the town. 
 Quarters however are already prepared to receive the troops 
 which were sent to the aid of the Constitutional army on other 
 points of the frontier. 
 
 To the north-east is sefen, prettily situated in a well-culti- 
 vated valley extending along the left bank of the river, a con- 
 vent of nuns, now restored, but which Soult burnt in his pas- 
 sage of the Minho, when he nearly reduced Valenifa itself 
 likewise to a heap of ruins. To the east, and thence running 
 in the direction of south-west, a bold line of Serra presents 
 itself, which divides this part of the province from the district 
 in which Ponte de Lima is situated. Tuy is within musket- 
 shot of Valenfa, whose guns would soon, in case of hostilities 
 occurring between the two countries, demolish its cathedral. 
 Episcopal Palace, Carmelite and Benedictine convents, which 
 form the prominent features of the place. Indeed, as we 
 were infoniied by the governor, a deputation of monks and 
 canons was sent to the commander of Valenf a, at the time the 
 French occupied Tuy, to implore a cessation from firing, as 
 considerable damage had already been sustained by their sa- 
 cred edifices from the Portuguese artillery. In our walks 
 round the ramparts, we could distinctly hear the beat of the 
 Spanish drums, and even the cries in the streets of Tuy. 
 With the noble breadth of river before us, which divides the 
 two jealous queens, the magnificent range of mountains to the 
 north and east, and the apparently impassable barrier of the 
 towering Serra, which has already been noticed, as running in 
 
266 PORTUGAL 
 
 the direction of south-west, (the whole would form a fine subject 
 for a panorama,) it was impossible altogether to acknowledge 
 the accuracy of Lord Byron's geographical description, or per- 
 haps the sublimity and the boldness of the view might have 
 created erroneous impressions on our minds — : 
 
 Ne barrier wall, ne river deep and wide, 
 Ne horrid crags, nor mountains dark and tall. 
 Rise like the rocks that part Hispania's land from Gaul. 
 
 We waited early upon the governor, an invalid colonel of 
 the rifle corps, who received us with great civility, and imme- 
 diately wrote to the Juiz de Fora, who was attending a court- 
 martial, to give us a written permission to cross the Minho, 
 without which previous formality we should not have been 
 admitted within the crumbling walls of Tuy ; and as it was, 
 we were most strictly scrutinized on landing under the town, 
 furnished with a regular pass, and thence transferred, in the 
 custody of a soldier, to the office of the Intendant of Police, 
 whose malignant character and devotion to principles of abso- 
 lutism were well understood at Valen^a. Although we had 
 only come over for the day, he detained us under one pretext 
 or another for two hours before we could obtain from him the 
 dismissal of our guard, and liberty for ourselves to range about 
 the place without the distinction of such an attendant. It was 
 afterwards discovered that our friend suspected that we might 
 intend to push on to Vigo, without making him the accustomed 
 payment of two francs each person for lawful permission so to 
 <io. The governor of Valenf a had been obliged, he told us, to 
 write this gentleman a strong letter of solicitation for leave to 
 bring away from a well, in the neighbourhood of Tuy, some 
 few bottles of water impregnated with sulphur, which his pe- 
 culiar malady required. Some communication is kept up be- 
 tween the two places by market-folks, who pass to and fro by 
 the ferry over the Minho, and there is an occasional interchange 
 of social parties between persons of the better classes ; but 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 267 
 
 the sudden transition from Portuguese to Spanish habits, cus- 
 toms, language, and costume, in crossing the Minho from Va- 
 lenf a to Tuy, is very surprising ; the women of the latter town 
 wearing the dark mantilla, which half conceals the face, and 
 the men short jackets, their hair being collected behind in the 
 national "Redecilla ;" occasionally the large slouched hat and 
 cloak ; the nether garment open at the knee, and leathern 
 gaiters, turned down with a deep piece of black velvet. The 
 Portuguese language, and even money, seem not to be gener- 
 ally comprehended by the inhabitants of Tuy. 
 
 The contrast between the condition of the Portuguese and 
 Spanish troops is still more striking than that between the 
 peasantry of the two nations. We had left in Valenca as fine 
 a body of men, as well drilled and equipped, as military look- 
 ing, and as brave and as free, as the best troops of constitu- 
 tional England. Here we saw the turn-out of a relief-guard at 
 the town-gate, composed of half-starved wretches, without 
 stockings or shoes, and some even in their shirts, whose best 
 distinction was, that they had the honour, unworthy as they 
 were, of carrying muskets impressed with the mark of the 
 tower of London, and therefore of British manufacture ; for in 
 every other respect this troop in tatters was qualified to rank 
 with Falstaflf's ragged regiment of recruits, and, as in his 
 description our own is found foresaid, better cannot be done, in 
 aid of a feeble attempt at representation, than to cite the very 
 words of the sack-imbibing warrior : — " If I be not ashamed 
 of my soldiers, I am a souced gurnet. I press me none but 
 ■good householders, yeomen's sons ; such a commodity of warm 
 -slaves, as had as lief hear the devil as a drum ; such as fear 
 the report of a caliver worse than a struck fowl, or a hurt wild- 
 duck. I pressed me none but such toasts and butter, with 
 hearts in their bellies no bigger than pin's heads, and they 
 have bought out their services ; and now my whole charge 
 consists of ancients, corporals, lieutenants, gentlemen of com- 
 
268 PORTUGAL 
 
 panics, slaves as ragged as Lazarus in the painted cloth, where 
 the glutton's dogs licked his sores : and such as, indeed, were 
 never soldiers, but discarded unjust serving-men, younger 
 sons to younger brothers, revolted tapsters, and ostlers trade- 
 fallen ; the cankers of a calm world and a long peace, ten 
 times more dishonourable, ragged, than an old-faced ancient ; 
 and such have I to fill up the rooms of them, that have bought 
 out their services, that you would think, that I had a hundred 
 and fifty tattered prodigals, lately come from swine-keeping, 
 from eating draff and husks. A mad fellow met me on the 
 way, and told me, I had unloaded all the gibbets, and pressed 
 the dead bodies. No eye hath seen such scare-crows. Nay, 
 and the villains march wide betwixt the legs, as if they had 
 gyves on ; for indeed, I had the most of them out of prison. 
 There's but a shirt and a half in all my company : and the 
 half shirt is two napkins tacked together, and thrown over the 
 shoulders like a herald's coat without sleeves ; and the shirt, 
 to say the truth, stolen from my host. But that's all one ; 
 they'll find linen enough on every hedge." 
 
 " P. Hen. I did never see such pitiful rascals." 
 Tuy is the seat of a bishop, whose wealth, according to a 
 calculation furnished us, should be enormous ; but let that pass, 
 the Benedictine priests appeared the best dressed persons of 
 the community, and not only that, but they looked as proud 
 as if they had been the real lords of the soil. A group of 
 these ascetics were assembled before the door of the cathe- 
 dral, holding high converse with the military governor of the 
 town, and near them a short figure in the habit of St. Francis ; 
 and as we overheard them calling us English brutes and he- 
 retics, we thought a representation of such judges worthy your 
 inspection, which was executed in sufficient time to form an 
 addendum to the last letter. The cathedral has been happily 
 spared by the cannon of Valenca. It is indeed a fine building, 
 and contains numerous side-chapels ; but there is too much of 
 
ILLUSTKATED. 269 
 
 the gilt- gingerbread style about them, and the columns which 
 support the canopy over the high altar are, in violation of all 
 taste, bedaubed with red paint. We found some columns 
 however on the outside of the church, which did not display 
 such proofs of wealth and judgment, and these were adorned 
 with grotesque capitals, and about the windows were mould- 
 ings, billets, rosettes, lozenges, and zig-zag lines of the Saxon, 
 query the Saracenic, order. Within the building there was a 
 mixture of Saxon and Gothic arches and capitals. 
 
 We visited the refectory of the Carmelite monks, whom we 
 found at dinner, and who politely invited us to share their hos- 
 pitality. The arrangement of the fraternity at the tables, accord- 
 ing to the respective rank of its members, corresponded with 
 the rules observed amongst us in the olden times of feudalism. 
 The ancients of the monastery occupied the tables placed 
 under the Daiv while the younger monks were gravely seated 
 at the lower side-tables, with the exception of the one at the 
 end of the hall and close to the kitchen hatch, which was ex- 
 clusively reserved for the hinds and villains of the grange, 
 who, nothing awed by the presence of so many reverend se- 
 niors, applied themselves most lustily to their separate messes. 
 The market-place is handsome and spacious, and the appear- 
 ance of the houses, it must be confessed, as well as the clean- 
 liness of the streets, were infinitely above what we had hitherto 
 experienced in Portugal. But still the latter country has, if 
 only nominally, free institutions, and is therefore, with all its 
 faults, far preferable in an Englishman's judgment to Spain. 
 
 In the evening of the following day, as it was the anniver- 
 sary of the f6te of St. Laurence, we witnessed a solemn pro- 
 cession through the streets 6f Valenipa of the Bishop and Canons 
 of the church, who were attended by the troops and a military 
 band, to invoke the saints' intercession for rain, the maize as 
 well as the vines beginning to suffer much from the long 
 continuance of drought. We found in the chapel, where the 
 
270 PORTUGAL 
 
 military hear mass, a wooden image of our Saviour, as large 
 as life, arrayed in the habit of St. Francis, on a sort of bier, 
 and bending on one knee under the imposition of the cross. 
 The figure was carried in procession, and received from the 
 kneeling multitude the most devout adoration ; nor did this 
 instance of melancholy superstition stop here, for several per- 
 sons masked, and bearing lighted tapers in their hands, whom 
 we supposed to be penitents, occasionally approached the 
 image, and kissed its feet with impassioned ardour, depositing 
 money on the bier to secure its good offices. 
 
 According to appointment, we attended the evening party 
 of the governor, when we were introduced to his family, and 
 to the principal officers of the garrison, who usually attend his 
 evening levee. Our maps and books afforded the party much 
 amusement, and particularly the ludicrous sketch of a Benedic- 
 tine and Franciscan monk, par nobile fratrum, which in truth eli- 
 cited great laughter. After we had partaken of refreshments, 
 cards were introduced, in which the greater part of the com- 
 pany engaged, while we enjoyed apart the conversation of his 
 Excellencia, who had served in all the peninsular campaigns 
 of Wellington, and had fought at the battle of Toulouse. In 
 the few hours which we passed in his society, the evidences 
 of a superior character were readily discovered, and he 
 appeared to be a person altogether admirably calculated to be 
 of use under the difficult circumstances of his country. 
 
 With the favourable impression produced on our minds by 
 the manners and sentiments of this brave officer, it was impos- 
 sible not to conclude that one of the dramatis personce of 
 Costigan must speak with unmeasured severity of the Portu- 
 guese military, who is made to say, I have never been able to 
 discover the smallest traces of probity, candour, disinterested- 
 ness, or honor, in any part of the conduct of the Portuguese 
 officers. Each regiment is but the epitome of the Portuguese 
 character ; and the characteristic bias of the Portuguese nation 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 271 
 
 is turned to insincerity, wickedness, and fraud. They are 
 defamers, backbiters, and traducers of reputation. This sweep- 
 ing censure is supported by the suggestion, that perhaps the 
 great accession of Jewish blood to the Portuguese, during the 
 reigns of Don Joao II., of Don Emmanuel, and of his son Don 
 John III., by the expulsion of the Jews from Spain, and the 
 forced conversions wrought upon them, have entirely vitiated 
 the national character. As far as our experience has gone, 
 we have seen nothing at all approaching to this description 
 in the higher class of Portuguese officers. At all events, it is 
 fair to presume that they have derived some benefit from the 
 discipline introduced into their army by Beresford, and from 
 fighting side by side with British officers in the cause of their 
 liberties and legitimate government. 
 
 The Serra de la Bruga, which we had to cross in our way 
 to Ponte de Lima, was reported at the governor's party to be 
 infested with banditti, and therefore we accepted his offer of a 
 small escort ; but no great extent of danger could have been 
 apprehended, as the men attended us with their side-arms 
 only. The ascent of this steep range of mountains proved 
 very difficult, and the roads far worse than any we had 
 hitherto met with, bad as they had been. While we were 
 enjoying the contents of our condessa at an early hour, under 
 the protecting canopy of some umbrageous cork-trees, whence 
 we could trace the winding line of our tedious route from 
 Valenfa to the summit of the Serra, and the valley of the 
 Minho almost down to Caminha, it was impossible not to 
 exclaim in the language of Thompson, 
 
 Hence every harsher sight ! for now the day, 
 
 O'er heaven and earth diffused, grows warm and high. 
 
 Infinite splendour ! wide-investing all. 
 
 How still the breeze ! save what the filmy threads 
 
 Of dew evaporate brushes from the plain. 
 
 How clear the cloudless sky ! how deeply tinged 
 
272 PORTUGAL 
 
 With a peculiar blue ! th' ethereal arch 
 How swelled immense ! amid whose azure throned 
 The radiant sun how gay ! How calm below 
 The gilded earth ! 
 
 A peasant in his holiday suit passed us on his road to a 
 neighbouring chapel, while we were thus indulging in the 
 reflections created by the beauties of the scenery and the 
 brilliancy of the morning. Finding from the soldiers that we 
 were English travellers, he immediately doffed his broad hat, 
 and with the good humour and politeness characteristic of the 
 Portuguese peasantry, begged to present us with a basket of 
 fruit ; nor was he willing to accept from us in return even a 
 share of our breakfast ; but when we informed the old man 
 that we had some wine with us that had been made in an 
 island far over the seas, by black men, and from " aifucar," 
 his eyes glistened with astonishment and curiosity, and his 
 hand was in an instant stretched out to carry the glass to his 
 lips. A pause for a moment took place, when he began 
 laughing and dancing, declared that he had swallowed a river 
 of fire, and that the black men must have insides of iron to 
 drink such " agua ardente," (brandy,) which, besides, was 
 not at all sweet. A little " vinho verde," or green wine, soon 
 restored our friend to his former composure, and in the course 
 of conversation he related the circumstances of a horrid mur- 
 der which had lately been committed in the neighbourhood. 
 A party of Galician labourers, having collected together a 
 sufficient sum to return and live among their native mountains, 
 were on their road home, which lay in the direction of this 
 Serra, when one happening to be a little in advance of the 
 others, laid himself down on the ground and soon fell asleep. 
 A woman had observed the poor Gallego in this situation, and 
 called out to two men in a field adjoining, that the Galician 
 had robbed her of a gold chain. Killing being considered no 
 murder in the case of a Gallego, the men instantly fired upon 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 273 
 
 him, as he lay wholly unconscious of enemies being at hand, 
 and they as immediately took refuge in flight. The woman, 
 however, was subsequently taken. On the arrival of his com- 
 panions, they found him weltering in his blood, and plundered 
 of all his savings with the exception of three vintems. 
 
 If the ascent of the Serra had been diflicult, the descent 
 proved infinitely worse, being by narrow deep roads, into 
 which the light of day scarcely penetrated, resembling the 
 mountain water-courses formerly used in Wales as public 
 ways, before a view of the surrounding country was pro- 
 nounced a necessary ingredient in the composition of a good 
 road. Our mules could with difficulty make their footing sure 
 among the fragments of rock strewn about, and which nearly 
 blocked up the passage. The meridian heat, too, was intense, 
 as we forced our way through the almost suffocating atmo- 
 sphere of the gorge in which we were travelling ; but a 
 dehghtful prospect suddenly burst upon our sight, as we 
 emerged into an open plain about half way down the Serra, 
 and which afforded ample indemnification for recent sufferings. 
 From this elevated point we commanded a complete view of 
 the valley of the Lima, the villages of Cunha, La Bruga, and 
 Calheiros, with the small town of Ponte de Lima in the dis- 
 tance, the remains of its ancient castle and circuit of walls, 
 and the narrow bridge of twenty-four arches over the Lima, 
 
 Whose needful length bestrides the wintry flood. 
 
 We remarked, in our descent, that the corn and vines were 
 considerably more forward than in the neighbourhood of Ca- 
 minha, Cerveira, and Valen^a. The reapers were already 
 gathering in the Indian corn, and the bunches of grapes had 
 become quite purple. Ponte de Lima is the Forum Limico- 
 rum of the Romans, and the antiquity of its foundation is 
 referred to a remote period even of Grecian history. It is 
 only three leagues from Vianna, and its population cannot 
 Port. s 
 
x'74 PORTUGAL 
 
 exceed three thousand persons. Here we dismissed our 
 body-guard, whose attention and propriety of demeanour 
 spoke well of the discipline maintained in the ninth regiment 
 by the Portuguese officers. 
 
 The Estalagem at Ponte de Lima merits particular notice, 
 and before this letter can be brought to a close, you must hear 
 all about it. Mine host ushered us through the large dark 
 room, usually occupied by muleteers, through a filthy kitchen, 
 and then up a ladder into a room that in English would be 
 called a cockloft. This apartment was intended to serve as 
 our dinner-room, and upon one side were three cupboards, in 
 which it was proposed that we should sleep, had there been 
 but the animus in us so to do. There were four window- 
 frames in the room, but as glass had never been thought of, 
 we had no other alternative than that of suiFering the intrusion 
 of northern blasts, or of inclosing ourselves, while the light of 
 day was yet bright, in utter darkness. The view, however, 
 from the wooden balcony was pretty enough, over the river 
 and along the bridge to the chapel at its further extremity, 
 and a convent beautifully situated in the midst of its quinta, 
 upon the side of a mountain which is immediately opposite 
 the town. The more elevated part of the Serra, of which it 
 forms a branch, is completely bare of all vegetation. A pret- 
 tily formed fountain upon one side of the Estalagem, which 
 supplies the town with water, soothed us during the night 
 with the gentle noise of its falling, streams. Beyond this, to 
 the left, situated upon a rising ground, were seen the remains 
 of a church, the long flight of steps leading up to which, with 
 a cross at every ten steps, is still uninjured. 
 
 It happened to be our host's celebration of ha:rvest-home 
 upon the evening of our arrival, and every room but our own 
 was nearly filled with the large yellow and brown heads of 
 the Indian corn. At night a noisy party of rustics assembled 
 in the kitchen to dance and make libations to Ceres. In 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 275 
 
 yielding to an entreaty that we would descend from our apart- 
 ment and witness the festivities, we only exchanged one scene 
 of filth for another, the latter being rather the more amusing 
 of the twain. The life of the party had already begun to shine 
 forth. An elderly inhabitant from a neighbouring village, 
 whose dark features and large piercing eyes were shaded by the 
 breadth of an enormous slouch hat, such as Murillo would put 
 upon the heads of his peasants, the dark cloak being thrown 
 aside, wearing black gaiters, and sandals of untanned leather, 
 — was ready on his legs, with castanets, inviting one from the 
 fair throng to figure off with him to the monotonous tones of a 
 bag-pipe, played upon by a Spaniard, (the wandering musi- 
 cians generally seen in Portugal being natives of Spain,) whose 
 appearance altogether was as rough and uncouth as the notes 
 of his instrument were sorry and inharmonious. The scene was 
 worthy the pencil of a Teniers or a Jan Steen. Bacalhao, rice, 
 onions, and sardinhas, fried in oil, formed the humble prepa- 
 rations for supper ; and on one side of the room was extended 
 a long table, at which some of the guests had already seated 
 themselves, expectant of the more substantial part of the 
 festivity. In a corner sat three of the hinds, eating out of the 
 same wooden bowl a savoury olio, which betrayed no slight 
 suspicion of garlic ; and overhead were suspended Lamego 
 hams, strings of onions, dried parcels of herbs and pumpkins, 
 bladders, poles, guns, lamps, baskets, sheepskins, shoes and 
 stockings of all ages, hues, and quality. The sound of the 
 bagpipe had now attracted a crowd of spectators to the doors 
 of the room, and therefore we took leave to sound an early 
 retreat, and ascended aloft to enjoy the peculiar comforts in 
 reserve for the travellers. 
 
 The real miseries now commenced, for it was quickly found 
 that the chairs of every date and form, upon which one of the 
 party had directed his mattress to be placed, happened to be 
 particularly infested with that kind of enemy which it was 
 
276 PORTUGAL 
 
 proposed to avoid in giving up the use of the cupboards 
 adjoining as sleeping-rooms. Thus, as it generally happens, 
 
 Incidit in Scyllam, qui vult vitare Charybdim. 
 
 Another of the party swang comfortably in his Brasilian 
 hammock, to whose malicious wit the accompanying sketch of 
 the night scene at Ponte de Lima is to be attributed. The 
 other, for whom neither the boasted oil of rosemary, nor spirits 
 of camphor, could procure a few untroubled hours, lay the 
 livelong night watching the ingress of the rats through the 
 crevices in the floor, and the mice at their gambols. Like 
 Homer's favourite hero, when bewailing, on a sleepless couch, 
 the death of his hapless companion in arms : — 
 
 — — — — — ovie fiiv vrrvos 
 
 jijoet TraviafiaTwp, a\V koTpk^tr ivQa KoX evOa' 
 
 — — — daXepbv Kara Saxpvov etfiev, 
 oKKot' eirl nXevpas KaTaKelfievos, aWore S' avre' 
 Utttios, ciWore 8^ irpjjv^s' rore b' opdos avaariis .... 
 
 HoM. II. B. 24. 1. 6. 
 
 Or, as Pope translates the original : 
 
 All stretched at ease the genial banquet share. 
 And pleasing slumbers quiet all their care. 
 
 — — — — — He to grief resigned. 
 Takes his sad couch, more unobserved to weep ; 
 Nor tastes the gifts of all-composing sleep. 
 Restless he rolled around his weary bed ; 
 Thought follows thought, and tear succeeds to tear. 
 And now supine, now prone, the hero lay ; 
 
 Now shifts his side, impatient for the day ; 
 Then starting up, disconsolate he goes. 
 
 The apostrophe of Dr. Clarke to his own country, after 
 describing the state of living in some parts of the north of 
 Europe, can alone do justice to the thoughts of home which 
 rushed upon the traveller's recollection during the wakeful 
 night passed at Ponte de Lima : — 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 277 
 
 " Oh England ! decent abode of cleanliness and decorum ! 
 Oh blessed asylum of all that is worth having upon earth ! Oh 
 sanctuary of religion and of liberty for the whole civilized 
 world ! It is only in viewing the state of other countries that 
 thy advantages can be duly estimated. May thy sons but 
 know and guard what they possess in thee ! Oh land of happy 
 firesides, and cleanly hearths, and domestic peace ; of filial 
 piety; of parental love and connubial joy! — 'the cradle of 
 heroes ; the school of sages ; the temple of law ; the altar of 
 faith ; the asylum of innocence ; the bulwark of private secu- 
 rity and of public honour !" 
 
 Where'er I roam, whatever realms to see, 
 My heart, untravelled, fondly turns to thee. 
 
 Goldsmith. 
 
 CROSSING THF. SERRA DF. LA BRUGA IN A LITEtRA. 
 
278 PORTUGAL 
 
 LETTER XI. 
 
 Not large, but fruitful, stored with grass to keep 
 The bellowing oxen and the bleating sheep ; 
 Her sloping hills the mantling vines adorn. 
 And her rich valleys wave with golden corn ; 
 No want, no famine the glad natives know. 
 Nor sink by sickness to the shades below. 
 
 Pope's Hom. Od. B. xv. 1. 442. 
 
 Amarante, 1827. 
 
 The character of the country between Ponte de Lima, Por- 
 tella de S. Estevao, Aguaes, Portella das Cabras, Moure, and 
 the Ponte do Prado, offered a pleasing contrast, in its general 
 fertility, and roads shaded by spreading oak or cork trees, and 
 interlacing vines, to the barren and dreary route by which we 
 had crossed the Serra de la Bruga. An action took place, 
 some months since, on the Rio Cavado, between the constitu- 
 tional troops and a detachment of Silveira's partisans, who, in 
 order to secure their retreat, destroyed a part of the bridge at 
 Prado, which is a handsome structure ; nor was the injury yet 
 repaired, a few loose boards only being thrown over the breach 
 effected by the fugitives. An hour's sultry ride brought us 
 from this point to the Benedictine Monastery of Tibaens, 
 whither we had sent in advance our letter of introduction, — 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 279 
 
 " Ao R™" Senhor Francisco Manoel de S. Vicente Ferreira, 
 Secretario da Congrega^ao de S. B. Tibaens." 
 
 Burning with thirst, we asked our muleteer Lisboa, who 
 was a merry droll of a fellow, whether he thought the monks 
 would have any wine to give us ? To which he archly re- 
 plied, " Did the Senhor ever know the ocean to be without 
 water?" 
 
 The convent stands in a singularly fine situation, command- 
 ing one of the most beautifully wooded valleys in the world, 
 unequalled likewise for the variety and the abundance of its 
 productions. The mountains which immediately encircle this 
 paradise, above which a distant line of Serra is seen uplifting 
 its gigantic summits, the silvery course of the meandering 
 Cavado, the numerous churches, convents, and villages, which 
 crowd upon its banks, present a scene altogether unrivalled 
 by the richness or sublimity of any Italian landscape. 
 
 " No traveller," as Link remarks, " could undelighted ex- 
 plore this province, or these charming scenes, which amid the 
 beauties of a warm climate afford all the refreshments of the 
 north. In a lovely valley beyond the Bernhardine Monastery 
 of Bouro, which itself stands in a hollow at the foot of the 
 mountains, surrounded by a large quinta full of orange trees, 
 and extending along the banks of the Lima, the Roman troops 
 refused to follow their commanders, being unwilling to quit 
 this happy country. The Romans called it the River of Obli- 
 vion. The Rio Caldo, the Homem, the Cavado, and innu- 
 merable other rivers of this province, well deserve that name ; 
 for they cause our German groves, and still more those of 
 England, to be forgotten." 
 
 This view along the valley of the Cavado is enjoyed to 
 perfection from the platform on which the monastery is placed, 
 to which we ascended by a magnificent flight of steps, occu- 
 pied at the time by numerous families of beggars, awaiting 
 their usual dole from the liberality of the monks. The effects 
 
280 PORTUGAL 
 
 of this inconsiderate charity, however flattering to monastic 
 pride, could not fail to strike the eye of a stranger as being 
 strongly evidenced in the miserable appearance of the degraded 
 crowd, thus instructed to relinquish the fruits of honest in- 
 dustry for base dependence and servile subsistence. We 
 found the chapel, though robbed by the French of its silver 
 ornaments, images, and candlesticks, sufficiently imposing. 
 The side altars displayed the usual bad taste, in the super- 
 abundance of trumpery ornaments, and the ordinary collection 
 of pictures without merit ; but the carving and gilding about 
 the high altar, and the elegant drapery suspended from the 
 columns, so as to conceal the holy sacrament, deserved a more 
 favourable judgment. 
 
 Our intended host. Secretary Manoel, having surrendered 
 his person to a very severe observance of vigils during the 
 previous night, had not yet finished his sesta ; but one of the 
 brotherhood politely offered to conduct us round the building, 
 in the course of which several of the monks joined us. These 
 Benedictine brethren are very proud of their collection of 
 pictures, in two small rooms, which are chiefly copies of the 
 productions of good masters, and are executed in a very infe- 
 rior style. They should discard from the walls some French 
 prints, whose character by no means accords with the sanctity 
 of a convent, and which are much misplaced in being ranged 
 together with the representations of holy subjects. Perhaps 
 you will be surprised to hear that the monks showed us a 
 billiard-room, with an excellent table in it, and a large draft 
 and chess-board, to cheat the dullness of the hours ; for 
 
 Here nought but candour reigns, indulgent ease, 
 Good-natured lounging, sauntering up and down : 
 They who are pleased themselves must always please ; 
 On others' ways they never squint a frown. 
 Nor heed what haps in hamlet or in town : 
 Thus, from the source of tender Indolence, 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 281 
 
 With milky blood the heart is overflown, 
 
 Is soothed and sweetened by the social sense ; 
 
 For interest, envy, pride, and strife, are banished hence. 
 
 Castle of Indolence. 
 
 In the library we were shown a great many historical works ; 
 ponderous tomes of the Fathers ; the works of Athanasius, 
 Calvin, and others ; acts of synods and councils, and lives of 
 the saints ; a copy of Dugdale's Monasticon ; some valuable 
 works connected with the history of Spain and Portugal; 
 books of natural history ; a splendid collection of volumes on 
 botany, ornithology, and conchology ; a copy of the French 
 Encyclopedia; a Benedict's Pindar, and a Duker's Thucy- 
 dides ; the latter of which must have been much disturbed by 
 our intrusion on their ancient solitary reign, as they had all 
 the appearance of having long slumbered in inglorious ease. 
 
 The spacious hall in which the several affairs of consequence 
 connected with the order are discussed, is surrounded by the 
 portraits of all the generals of the Benedictine rule ; of the 
 Cardinal King of Portugal, and of the usurper Philip II. of 
 Spain, — no good omen, as we thought, of conventual politics. 
 A lynx-eyed brother began to compliment England at the 
 expense of Spain, in order to bring on a political conversation 
 and an avowal of our sentiments ; but there was something 
 suspicious in the look and manner of the speaker, which 
 induced silence on our part, and the artful Corcunda with- 
 drew disappointed to ruminate in his cell. One of the monks 
 seriously asked us whether London were as large as Lisbon, 
 and when informed rather larger, inquired if its extent was 
 greater than that of Paris ; and when told perhaps five times 
 the size of the French metropolis, and comprehending a cir- 
 cuit of from forty to fifty miles, he raised his eyes in astonish- 
 ment, and seemed incredulous of the statement. 
 
 The corridors which run round and occasionally intersect the 
 building, are grand and spacious, and contain numerous portraits 
 
282 PORTUGAL 
 
 of members of the Benedictine order, who have been elevated 
 at different times to episcopal rank ; as likewise of Aristotle, 
 Seneca, and Diogenes. A general, twenty brothers, and twenty- 
 noviciates, form the number of the present society. The views 
 from the windows of the galleries over the gardens, vineyards, 
 orange, lemon, olive, and chestnut groves, attached to the 
 monastery, presented a scene of infinite luxuriance. Their 
 friends, the absolutists, before they retreated across the Ponte 
 do Prado, bad borrowed of the good fathers two mules, worth 
 more than one hundred pounds, and at the same time, for via- 
 ticum, a small quantity of wheat amounting to about four hun- 
 dred alqueires, which left the house rather short of provisions, 
 as they said. In this state of necessity the large fish-ponds, 
 the extensive rabbit-warren inclosed, the well-stocked dove- 
 cots, and the productive gardens and orchards, proved a 
 most fortunate resource. The vineyards yield annually 
 about one hundred and fifty pipes of a red wine of inferior 
 quality. 
 
 Our friend the Secretary made his appearance, after we had 
 been some hours in the convent, blushing like the rosy morn, 
 the interesting picture of a life of penance and mortification. 
 Inclined however to an hydropic enlargement of person, he 
 took care to impress upon our minds that wine and meat were 
 strictly forbidden his peculiar case ; which assertion it became 
 us of course to admire and believe without envy. We were 
 shown the pontifical dresses and gorgeous vestments in the 
 sacristy, and a splendid archiepiscopal mitre, enriched with 
 rubies, emeralds, amethysts, topazes, garnets, and rose dia- 
 monds, all which had been luckily secreted from the rapacity 
 of the French. There is an excellent organ in the gallery 
 above the chapel, where the monks attend the offices of the 
 church apart from the multitude, upon which one of the 
 brothers executed very prettily some airs of a lighter descrip- 
 tion than are usually heard within the gloomy aisles of a con- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 283 
 
 vent ; such as the poet imagines in the pleasures of melan- 
 choly : — 
 
 The tapered choir, at the late hour of prayer, 
 Oft let me tread, while to th' according voice 
 The many-sounding organ peals on high. 
 The clear slow-dittied chaunt, or varied hymn, 
 Till all my soul is bathed in ecstasies. 
 And lapped in Paradise. Or let me sit 
 Far in sequestered aisles of the deep dome. 
 There lonesome listen to the sacred sounds. 
 Which, as they lengthen through the Gothic vaults. 
 In hollow murmurs reach my ravished ear. 
 
 The refectory is a long narrow apartment, situated under 
 the principal corridor, where we remarked that each brother 
 had his mess alone, a dish for fruit, and a basin for soup, a jug 
 to hold water, and a branch of chestnut-tree to drive away the 
 swarms of flies, and camphor spread here and there upon the 
 tables for the destruction of a species of red ant, which seems 
 to abound here as well as in other parts of Portugal. In a 
 Benedictine convent, such as this for instance, the abbot 
 approaches his guests after dinner, with ewer and basin, and 
 pours water over their hands as a mark of attention and hos- 
 pitality. 
 
 The Monastery of Tibaens is certainly a handsome elevation, 
 but, generally speaking, the conventual buildings of Portugal 
 have very few architectural attractions, since they chiefly 
 consist of long corridors, numerous small windows, and narrow 
 cloisters, while the exterior is usually without any ornament, 
 and very frequently whitewashed. 
 
 In the centre of the cloisters there are some pretty parterres 
 of flowers, from which the old father, who had attended us 
 from the moment of our setting foot within the walls of the 
 monastery, brought as a parting present to each of us, a large 
 posy of sweet marjoram. " His saltem accumulem donis," 
 seemed to be the thought of the amiable monk ; and neither 
 
284 PORTUGAL 
 
 his benevolent countenance, nor his Uttle gift, however humble 
 and simple, failed in making due impression on the hearts of 
 his visitors. 
 
 After we had partaken of their hospitalities, the Secretary 
 and his brethren attended us to the mules, which we found 
 already surrounded by the other members of the household, 
 the menials even joining in the circle, from all of whom we 
 received the most friendly salutations at our departure. 
 
 An hour's ride through a forest of cork trees, belonging to 
 these Benedictines, brought us to Braga, where one of the 
 muleteers sent in advance had already secured us tolerable 
 quarters at the Dois Amigos in the Campo Santo Anna, situated 
 near the old fort and guard-house, buildings of great antiquity 
 and interest. 
 
 Braga is a comarca town, and the seat of an archbishop, 
 whose title gives him the right of appointing his own corregi- 
 dor. It is said to have been founded by the Greeks after the 
 fall of Troy, and was certainly a place of considerable import- 
 ance in the time of the Romans, being known by the name of 
 Bracara-Augusta. Until lately, the remains of an aqueduct 
 and the ruins of an amphitheatre attested its former grandeur ; 
 but no vestiges of either are now to be found, the stone-work, 
 according to the information which we received from an intel- 
 ligent priest, having some years since been removed and 
 appropriated to the construction of modern buildings. Roman 
 coins, however, are still frequently discovered in the neighr 
 bourhood. It became in process of time the capital of the 
 Suevi ; and after the expulsion of the Moors from the pro- 
 vince. Count Henry of Burgundy rebuilt the cathedral in a 
 style of great splendour, intending it to serve as a place of 
 royal sepulture. The generous piety of subsequent sovereigns 
 conferred great honours and wealth upon the archiepiscopal 
 See of Braga, whose possessors, not content with the distinc- 
 tion of being acknowledged Primates of Portugal, claimed also 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 285 
 
 the same precedence in Spain, as holding the most ancient 
 episcopal seat of the peninsula. Five councils have been held 
 in this cathedral, whose annals boast the uninterrupted suc- 
 cession of one hundred and fourteen prelates, some eminent 
 for their virtues and learning, and at a later period the posses- 
 sion of the archbishop's throne by two princes of the house of 
 Braganza. 
 
 We inquired in the cathedral, which is a large structure of 
 the early perpendicular style, for the Mosorabic breviary, 
 which was formerly preserved in a small chapel attached to 
 the building, where the church service used to be occasionally 
 performed, as we were given to understand, according to the 
 forms prescribed by that ancient ritual. It had been however 
 removed into the sacristy, and the sacristan was not to be 
 found ; so we were disappointed in our wish of being admitted 
 to see this book, as well as the other treasures and antiquities 
 of the cathedral, among which is a phial said to contain some 
 of the milk from our Lady's breast, and two or three pearls 
 from her necklace. Near the entrance there was a figure of 
 our Saviour upon the cross, surrounded by such a motley 
 collection of ex voto offerings as to give the place the appear-, 
 ance of a slop-shop. 
 
 The walls of the cathedral had been whitewashed, and this 
 tasteless example was pleaded to us by our friends at Tibaens, 
 in justification of their having adopted the same barbarism in 
 their own chapel. The capitals of the whitewashed columns 
 display a profusion of judicious gilding, and one might have 
 supposed that some English churchwarden had been taking 
 advantage of his year's office to try his utmost at spoiling the 
 dignity of the building. The six chapels in the two transepts 
 are ornamented with figures of the evangelists, apostles, and 
 saints, fairly carved in wood, but most unfairly bedaubed with 
 paint. Whatever other high qualities credulity may attribute 
 to saintly personages, it is too much for common belief to give 
 
286 PORTUGAL 
 
 them credit for that rubicundity of visage, that rosy high 
 colour, which the priests of Braga should perceive, more be- 
 comes the Bacchante than the Beatified. 
 
 The organ is divided into two parts, each half being affixed 
 upon opposite sides of the nave. This arrangement produces 
 a very good effect, the large western window which lights the 
 gallery being seen between them. The carving and gilding 
 about the organ and organ-loft, which is supported by hideous 
 figures of black men, having th6 feet of satyrs, is in the most 
 gorgeous style of Romish magnificence. Additional pipes of 
 different lengths, as is the custom in Portugal, project hori- 
 zontally from the lower part of the organ. The canons attend 
 the performance of divine service in the organ gallery, of which 
 the wainscot, canopies of the stalls, and falling seats are made 
 from chestnut wood, finely carved, and gilded with some degree 
 of taste. Over each of the forty stalls, as for instance in 
 Salisbury Cathedral, is suspended a shield of an oval form 
 containing the name of the particular canonry, such as Ama- 
 ral, Abreu, Pontes, and Brandao. The archbishop's superb 
 chair is placed immediately under the west window in the 
 centre of the gallery, with a handsome clock on a pedestal 
 immediately above it, and commands a view of the body of 
 the church up to the high altar. Altogether we have been 
 much pleased with this cathedral, and though perhaps not so 
 interesting in an architectural point of view as the S6 at Porto, 
 it has the great merit of being kept in a much cleaner and 
 neater condition. 
 
 Thence we went, followed by a troublesome troop of ragged 
 boys, and by an officious soldier, who, to the discredit of the 
 Portuguese service, asked us to give him money, to the arch- 
 bishop's palace, which is a spacious and handsome building. 
 In the centre of the square immediately opposite to it, there is 
 a very curious fountain, which consists of a series of towers 
 raised one above the other to a considerable height, decreasing 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 287 
 
 in nuraber and size towards the uppermost point of the co- 
 lumn, which is surmounted by the figure of a warrior armed 
 with a spear and shield. The old tower at the western ex- 
 tremity of the Campo Sta. Anna is at present converted into a 
 state prison, where some of Silveira's rebel troops are con- 
 fined ; among whom we saw, at the window of a cell, a young 
 ensign, who had been lately taken with a musket in his hands, 
 heading a band of guerillas, who had recently occupied the 
 neighbouring mountains. The influence of the numerous and 
 wealthy ecclesiastics at Braga, however, creates a decided 
 preponderance of feeling in favour of the principles of abso- 
 lutism, and in support of all the superstitious practices of the 
 church ; but 
 
 behold them now 
 
 A thin despairing number, all-subdued. 
 The slaves of slaves, by superstition fooled. 
 By vice unmanned, and a licentious rule ; 
 In guile ingenious, and in murder brave. 
 
 Thomson. 
 
 The view to the east from the Canapo St^. Anna is bounded 
 by a mountain height, on which, about one third of the way 
 from the summit, stands the beautiful church of Senhor Jesus 
 do Monte, which is annually visited by numerous pilgrims 
 from all parts of the country. In search of the Roman re- 
 mains, we chanced to wander into the chapel of St. Bento at 
 the upper end of the town, where we found the image do Sen- 
 hor Jesus do Monte, surrounded, according to a custom which 
 prevails at this season in Portugal, with nosegays in vases, and 
 flower-pots containing rose-trees, balsams, carnations, hydran- 
 gias, rhododendra, coxcombs, and sweet marjoram. The 
 figure had descended from its lofty habitation into the vale 
 below, to receive the prayers and alms of the pious, who had 
 been for a long time sadly afflicted by the prevailing drought. 
 The priests, wholly unobservant of times and seasons, had, by 
 accident of course, chosen a most fortunate moment for con- 
 
288 PORTUGAL 
 
 firming and extending the reputation of their image, as it hap- 
 pened to be about the change of the moon into its last quarter. 
 It did actually rain a few days after the descent, and as an old 
 woman gravely informed us, Senhor do Monte did perform a 
 miracle. A fresh accession of credit among the easy multi- 
 tude would be the natural consequence of this play upon the 
 popular capabilities of belief. 
 
 The situation of Braga, at the distance of about fifteen miles 
 from the sea, in a broad and open valley, watered by the 
 small streams of the Cavado to the north, and the Rio d'Este 
 to the south ; shaded by noble forest trees, and surrounded by 
 mountains, which present a screen against the intrusion of cold 
 winds, renders it a perfect oven. In fact, the oranges of 
 Braga are reputed to be the most delicious of all those pro- 
 duced in the quintas of the province. So intense is the heat, 
 that the market which is held in the Campo near the guard- 
 house, closes at a very early hour in the morning, and re-opens 
 after sunset each evening for the sale of salt-fish, such as ba- 
 calhao and sardinhas ; fruits, as water-melons and gourds, ve- 
 getables, grass in bundles, and leaves of Indian corn for mules. 
 The principal manufactories of the place are of hardware and 
 hats, with which latter the common people of Portugal are 
 chiefly supplied. 
 
 One of the party being taken unwell, had occasion to send 
 to a chymist's for some opium, which he decHned supplying, 
 as being illegal without the sanction of a doctor in medicine's 
 signature. A physician was then sent for, a lad who had just 
 completed his studies at Coimbra. The fees for three visits 
 did not amount to more than five shillings, and yet his patience 
 and prescription were both laudable. The chymist, however, 
 was not so tender of human life. He was not to be disturbed 
 in his sesta, and he took therefore five hours to compound a 
 simple medicine, which only required ten minutes' attention. 
 During that time, had the case been urgent, the unfortunate 
 sufferer, as the physician himself remarked, might have been 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 289 
 
 beyond the reach of all medical skill. One of the principal 
 means of cure was found in the strict observance of the Caldo 
 de Gallinha system, which is invariably recommended in almost 
 all complaints by the Portuguese faculty. We experienced 
 every possible civility in our Estalagem ; but the filth of the 
 house was quite in proportion, the walls and the beds swarm- 
 ing with pre-occupants. Some of the houses in Braga have a 
 singular appearance, which bears the character of Spanish 
 jealousy. A lattice of wood is affixed to the balconies of the 
 several apartments, which admits the air to pass through freely, 
 while the sun and heat are effectually excluded, and the in- 
 mates are enabled, by means of small windows which open in 
 it, to gratify their curiosity without being themselves exposed 
 to the public view. 
 
 To the northward and north-east of Braga is seen the lofty 
 range of mountains which divides Portugal from Galicia, called 
 the Serra de Gerez, with its high-pointed summits. The 
 effect of the setting sun upon this grand series of mountain 
 heights, rising one behind another in wild confusion, was truly 
 splendid. A light thin haze had collected about the elevated 
 line on which the declining rays of the sun threw a golden 
 colour, that offered a glorious contrast to the dark sides of the 
 Serra, and likewise heightened the sublimity of the landscape. 
 
 The Portuguese cart, of which a drawing is inclosed in this 
 letter, and such as we have constantly met with in the pro- 
 vince of the Minho e Douro, appears to be of very primitive 
 invention. Perhaps its origin might be traced to the times of 
 the Romans, and probably these early conquerors of Lusitania 
 might have borrowed the model from the war chariot of the 
 Greeks. Link describes these 
 
 Tardaque Eleusinse Matris volventia platistra, 
 
 as " low carts drawn by oxen, set upon thick small wheels, 
 
 cut out of a single piece of wood, which, being never greased, 
 
 Port. T 
 
290 PORTUGAL 
 
 make a dreadful noise, intended to drive on the oxen. The 
 driver walks before the beasts, and governs them with a stick 
 furnished with an iron point. These carts are also used in 
 Biscay and Asturia. The bad roads in the country render this 
 conveyance perhaps necessary ; but merchandize is carried as 
 in Spain, everywhere upon mules." Mr. Bradford remarks, 
 that " the body is composed of rough planks nailed together, 
 having a long pole fixed perpendicularly at each of its angles, 
 as stays, to which the load is fastened ; a solid beam of wood 
 forms the axle-tree, and turning round the wheels, produces, 
 during their revolutions over the stony roads of Portugal, a 
 combination of sounds the most dissonant." The oxen are 
 yoked to these cars by the horns in the south, and by the neck 
 in the north of Portugal. Thus, apparently heavy loads are 
 dragged over a mountainous and rocky country, where no 
 other species of vehicle could be employed. 
 
 "We left Braga," says Mr. Link, " very soon, in order to 
 arrive the earlier at the frontier mountains that divide Portugal 
 from Galicia, called Serra de Gerez, and visit that almost un- 
 explored range of mountains at the most favourable season. 
 Beyond Bouro we ascended the spurs or forerunner mountains 
 of Gerez. From the declivity of this mountain we descended 
 to a large village, called Villar de Veiga, and then followed 
 the valley, which continues rising more and more. A roaring 
 stream, called Rio das Caldas, pours down over rocks into the 
 middle of the valley ; the mountains become higher and steeper, 
 and after climbing them for a league, suddenly appears behind 
 an eminence a small place in the same valley, consisting of 
 forty houses, and celebrated for its warm baths, for which 
 reason it is called Caldas de Gerez. The company come from 
 the small towns of Minho, and many of the English from 
 Porto. The bathing season continues from June till August. 
 The warm waters of this place rise to the eastward from a wall 
 of granite rock at the foot of a high mountain. There are four 
 

 5^«A^ 
 
 
 I- ■■* 
 
 
 A PEASAS'T AJS'B ¥i\l^i^ILY OF THE MWHO E DOl'RO PEOVISCE . 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 291 
 
 springs, each bearing a different name ; viz. da Figueira, a 
 fig-tree growing over it out of the rock ; do Bispo, &c. 
 
 " The Serra of Gerez, generally speaking, extends from 
 east to west, but sends out many branches to the southward. 
 Near the Spanish frontiers, the river Homem intersects the 
 valley of Caldas obliquely, and passes into another. Here 
 are tlie ruins of a Roman bridge, with many remains of pillars 
 here and there, belonging to a Roman way. These traces of 
 art in so solitary and wild a country make a deep impression, 
 and the roaring stream has, during many centuries, vainly en- 
 deavoured to destroy the strong works of that powerful people. 
 A narrow and difficult footpath leads by this singular spot into 
 a foreign kingdom. The highest of the mountains of Gerez is 
 to the eastward of Caldas, towards the town of Montalegre ; 
 and the highest peak is called O Murro de Burrageiro. Here 
 the scene suddenly changes ; the oaks cease, and northern 
 trees alone appear, which are not found in the plains and 
 lower mountains of Portugal, as the yew, the birch, the moun- 
 tain-ash and mountain-juniper. The further we advanced to 
 the eastward, the more rough and wild we found this range. 
 Everything is granite along this range of mountains, as is usual 
 in heaped-up rocks. The Flora is a singular mixture of Ger- 
 man and northern, Biscayan and Pyrenean plants, and of 
 those belonging to the plains of Portugal. 
 
 " Wolves are here so numerous as to render this range of 
 mountains dangerous ; but the most remarkable animal is the 
 Caucasan goat, which is extremely rare on other European 
 mountains. This animal is larger, stronger, and more mus- 
 cular than the tame goat, particularly in the shoulders and 
 parts near the heel. In other respects it fully coincides with 
 the description of the writer on Capra iEgagrus. Whether it 
 be a degenerate and wild variety of the tame goat, or the wild 
 parent stock of the latter, is uncertain. Its flesh is much 
 esteemed ; the skins are frequently used as covers for mules ; 
 
292 PORTUGAL 
 
 and the horns are put up as ornaments in houses. Goat-skins 
 from the Galician frontiers are hkewise sold in the Upper 
 Douro for wine-bags. On these mountains are found great 
 numbers of lizards and snakes, for which reason the bushes 
 are burnt every five years, by which young food for cattle is 
 also procured, although the former motive is that always as- 
 signed. The snow does not lie long, but falls in such quanti- 
 ties round the Murro, that poles and heaps of stone are set 
 up to show the road. The Murro may be estimated at about 
 three to four thousand feet in height. It is far lower than the 
 Serra da Estrella. A little beyond Villarinho do Forno rises 
 a range of rocky mountains, called Serra Amarella, which form 
 the frontiers." 
 
 Proceeding eastward from Braga up a long valley, rather 
 more than a league in extent, we arrived at the base of the 
 hill on which the sanctuary do Senhor Jesus do Monte is si- 
 tuated, when we dispatched the liteira and mules by a circui- 
 tous but more practicable route to the Cima, where we were 
 to join them. As this place forms a leading feature in the 
 practical superstitions of the Portuguese, a minute description 
 of the "relligio loci" will not be deemed perhaps superfluous 
 or tedious. 
 
 On the left-hand side of the principal entrance gate, over 
 which is the shield of the Portuguese sovereigns, the first ob- 
 ject which attracts the traveller's attention is a large fountain 
 in the form of a shell, with this inscription over it, 
 
 Jerusalem sancta restaurada 6 reedificada no anno D. 1723. 
 
 and on the right hand a corresponding fountain and inscrip- 
 tion, 
 
 Pello illustrissimo Senhor D, Hodrigo de Moura e Telles Arcebispo Primas. 
 
 Ascending again a few steps, passing within the gate, and 
 turning to the right hand, we saw through the iron-latticed 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 293 
 
 door of a small chapel a representation of our Saviour and the 
 apostles in painted wood as large as life, celebrating the 
 paschal supper. Our Saviour is seated under a rich canopy- 
 in the centre of a semicircular table, with a glory above his 
 head. St. John is leaning on his left shoulder. The names 
 of the apostles are written in large characters on their left 
 arms. Judas the traitor is seated last on the left side of the 
 table from our Saviour, concealing the bag of money with 
 which he had been intrusted ; and conscience-smitten, listens 
 with eager attention to Christ's declaration that one of them 
 would betray him, and the asseverations of fidelity made with 
 warmth by the other apostles. Our Saviour holds the bread 
 in his left hand, and before him stands the cup containing the 
 memorial of his blood. The countenances of the apostles, ex- 
 pressive of vehement feelings of horror, surprise, and indigna- 
 tion, contrast well with the calm and majestic mien of their 
 divine master. A domestic in a red dress, and holding a co- 
 vered dish, with the name of Jpao Marcos inscribed on his left 
 shoulder, his sleeves turned back to the elbow, and the tunic 
 underneath displayed, regards the passing scene with an in- 
 tensity of interest. Over the door is inscribed, " Coena facta 
 accepit Jesus panem et ait comedite, hoc est corpus meum." 
 In the chapel opposite, our Lord's agony in the garden is re- 
 presented. An angel appears in a cloud ministering to him, 
 and bearing a cup. The three apostles are sleeping, and at the 
 feet of our Saviour a small fountain breaks out from a rock, in 
 allusion to the typical miracle of the desert. 
 
 Winding up a flight of steps still higher, through a wood of 
 oak and cork trees, the shade of which proved most welcome 
 even at an early hour in the morning, we came to a chapel in 
 which is described the apprehension of Jesus by the Roman 
 band in the garden of Gethsemane. Judas is seen giving the 
 signal agreed upon, and on one side Peter is represented un- 
 
294 PORTUGAL 
 
 sheathing his sword, and the high priest's servant is seated 
 amusing himself with the alarm and flight of a young person 
 in a white linen robe loosely thrown round him. Some of 
 the soldiers are preparing the ropes with which Jesus is to be 
 bound. In the next, our Saviour is represented tied to a 
 pillar, and scourged by the Roman governor. A Roman 
 soldier, and a person attired in a Spanish dress, are making 
 fresh scourges. Round the neck of the latter some devotee 
 has placed a cravat of silver tissue. After ascending another 
 series of steps, the fifth chapel occurs, and here our Saviour 
 is enduring the mockery of the diadem of thorns, and the 
 reed. On either side of these chapels is a pretty bubbling 
 fountain, in which the pilgrim may slake his thirst. In a 
 chapel still higher up, Pilate is seen on an elevated stage, 
 presenting Jesus to the malignant multitude, and saying 
 "Ecce Homo!" 
 
 In the seventh chapel Jesus is represented in a black robe, 
 bending under the weight of his cross, on his way to the last 
 scene of his earthly ministry upon Mount Calvary, the daugh- 
 ters of Israel weeping around him. The officer of the Roman 
 guard, bearing the governor's death-warrant in his left hand, 
 is leading the holy victim by a rope fixed round his neck to 
 the place of crucifixion. The last act of this tragic scene, 
 about the third hour, when they crucified the Lord of life, is 
 described in another chapel, and to mark the locality, two 
 skulls and thigh-bones are placed over the door, and a lad is 
 represented as holding a scroll, inscribed with the initial letters 
 of Pilate's superscription. 
 
 The whole of these sacred representations are very far, to 
 state the truth, from being grotesque ; and though perhaps 
 entitled to claim but little merit for the style in which they 
 are executed, they are by no means badly calculated to give 
 vivid ideas of that awful series of events to the mind of the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 295 
 
 devotee, and to leave a strong impression upon his feelings, 
 more even than many discourses on the subject, since, as the 
 poet remarks upon the rules of the drama, 
 
 Segnius irritant animos demissa per aurem, 
 Quam quae sunt oculis subjecta fidelibus, et quje 
 Ipse sibi tradit spectator. 
 
 No peasant could behold such scenes in the fervor of that 
 piety v^rhich had induced his pilgrimage hither, without having 
 his heart warmed, and his understanding enlightened upon 
 the subject. 
 
 Next succeeds a long flight of steps of white granite, which 
 branch off right and left, and unite on platforms above, having 
 a balustrade, on which, as they rise tier above tier, are placed 
 colossal figures in white marble of apostles and saints. In 
 the centre of the base of this flight there is a beautiful fountain, 
 on either side of which are represented in high relief, the cup, 
 the hammer, the cords, nails, pincers, ladder, and cross, and 
 on a shield above are inscribed the following lines : 
 
 Purpureos fontes odium reseravit adoxum. 
 Nunc in chrystallos hie tibi vertit amor. 
 
 To the left hand, at the summit of this noble flight of steps, 
 placed on a pedestal, which is supported by an insulated piece 
 of granite of a conical shape, is a well-executed figure of a 
 warrior on horseback. A great deal of gilding is spread over 
 this equestrian statue, which seems to be cut out of a block of 
 white granite. In another chapel is described the Assumption 
 of the Virgin into heaven from a garden, prettily executed. 
 Choirs of angels are represented holding pieces of printed 
 music, playing on violins, or chaunting the hymn, " Veni, 
 Sponsa Christi — Accipe coronam." Above this chapel again 
 is a large fountain in rustic stonework, from which the water 
 passes through the beak of a pelican, the emblem of charity, 
 upon her young, who appear to be imbibing her blood. 
 
2^6 PORTUGAL 
 
 The principal western facade has four columns of the Doric 
 order, which support a projecting gallery, on the balustrade of 
 which are four colossal figures in marble, representing the 
 evangelists, whose names are inscribed underneath. In taber- 
 nacles on either side of the principal entrance into the nave, 
 are placed two fine figures of Isaiah and Jeremiah, and on a 
 tablet over the door is inscribed this pompous appropriation of 
 the prophecy, " Et erit in novissimis diebus praeparatus mons, 
 domus Domini, in vertice montium, et elevabitur super colles, 
 et fluent ad eum omnes gentes." On another tablet under a 
 window to the left hand of this door is inscribed, " Mons in 
 quo beneplacitum est Deo habitare, — in eo etenim Dominus 
 habitabitur ad finem;" and on a tablet similarly situated to 
 the right, is the following inscription, " Exaltate Dominum 
 Deum nostrum, et adorate in monte sancto ejus." Upon 
 pedestals placed at certain distances from each other on the 
 balustrade of the semicircular area in front of the church, are 
 colossal figures of Joseph of Arimathsea, Nicodemus, Pilate, 
 and the Centurion. At either angle of the facade are two 
 detached towers, with Corinthian pillars and capitals, and 
 containing each four bells. The interior of the church is lofty, 
 though not large. It is built of white granite, perfectly 
 plain, and has no other decoration than the rich canopy over 
 the high altar, supported by four superb columns richly gilt. 
 A falling drapery of green silk conceals from public view the 
 depository of the holy sacrament, and a representation of our 
 Saviour's ascent into heaven. 
 
 The view of Braga from this height, and beyond it, to the 
 left, of the Benedictine Convent of Tibaens, the intervening 
 valleys and surrounding mountains, still partially obscured by 
 mists, though on a scale of magnitude inferior to the grandeur 
 and beauty of the Alpine view from the Superga over the fer- 
 tile valley of the Po and the elegant city of Turin, yet, in some 
 degree, would remind the traveller of that splendid prospect. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 297 
 
 Just above the little inn where we breakfasted, is a chapel, in 
 which is represented the preparation of our Saviour's body for 
 enclosure in the new tomb of Joseph, and the mother sur- 
 rounded by a circle of mourners bending over it in the speech- 
 less agony of grief. In the side-chapel to the north, whence 
 the image of our Saviour has descended to Braga, there is a 
 tolerably executed front elevation of the church, and round 
 the frame is inscribed, " He dedicada esta memoria aos bem- 
 feitores, e honrados Lavradores das freguezias circumvezinhas, 
 deste Sanctoario, que com pio h fervordzo 26I0 tanto se empen- 
 harao em conduzir gratuitamente nos sens carros toda a pedra 
 para a construccao deste majestozo templo." 
 
 There are also several portraits of benefactors in this chapel 
 very fairly executed ; and among the numerous ex voto offer- 
 ings suspended to the walls, a tablet represents a man in his 
 bed vomiting blood into a basin, which is held by a friend, 
 while a Franciscan monk grasps his left hand. Some of the 
 family are on their knees before an appearance "do Senhor 
 do Monte;" and his wife is represented as standing up, hold- 
 ing a large portion of the intestines, which has come away 
 from the invalid during a violent fit of coughing. The follow- 
 ing inscription records his miraculous recovery : " Milagre 
 que Fes o Bom Jesus do Monte, da cidade de Braga, a Joao 
 Semeli de na^ao Hespanhola, que lan^ando immenfo sangue, 
 Pella Boca, estando, Dezenganado de viver, se apegou com 
 o Senhor, e Iha recuperou a sua antiga saude." This one 
 inscription on a votive tablet will serve to give you a general 
 idea of the character of such compositions, for they are all 
 pretty much alike. 
 
 A chapel has been lately erected to the north-west of the 
 platform on which the church is situated. The building is of 
 white granite. A corresponding chapel and flight of steps up 
 to it, is to be built on the opposite side of the platform, which 
 is to be extended in that direction in order to receive it. 
 
298 PORTUGAL 
 
 when the original grand design for the front of this magnificent 
 edifice will be completed. Over the door of the north chapel 
 is inscribed on a tablet, 
 
 Foi 
 
 Lanpada a Primeira Pedra deste Templo, 
 
 No 1° de Junho de 1784. 
 
 Still ascending beyond the little inn and fountain opposite, 
 we came to the tenth chapel, in which our Saviour's ascent 
 from the tomb is represented, and the watchful Roman guard, 
 jealous of their charge, and with swords drawn, as though an 
 enemy were at hand. In the eleventh chapel, one of three 
 in a circle near the Cima, surrounded by oak trees, women are 
 represented bringing spices to embalm the body, with Mary 
 and two angels kneeling and looking into the tomb. In the 
 twelfth, Christ is seen breaking bread with the apostles at 
 Emmaiis, the side-scenes resembling those of a stage. A 
 tablet bears the following inscription, " Christo Redemptor 
 Divino com ser Deos, por natureza aqui se v^, posto a meza na 
 forma de hum peregrino." In the last chapel is represented 
 the ascent of our Saviour. A glory, surrounded by the angelic 
 host, and suspended by some invisible means, is supposed to 
 be bearing him through the clouds of heaven to resume his 
 former state of equality with the Father. 
 
 It was now the middle of the day, and the mists which had 
 hitherto contracted the prospect, cleared off, and disclosed to 
 us a vast extent of mountain scenery, valleys, forests, towns, 
 villages, monasteries, and the ocean bounding the landscape, 
 and glittering like polished silver under a cloudless sun. The 
 noon would seem to be the best hour for the enjoyment of this 
 magnificent view. We travelled hence for a considerable dis- 
 tance along the bare ridge of the Cima, and found the ardent 
 rays of the meridian sun agreeably tempered by the influence 
 of the sea-breezes. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 299 
 
 On the Cima de Valpeira, which forms a branch of the 
 Serra, which we crossed on our route to Guimaraens, lying to 
 the right, and nearer the regular road from Braga to the former 
 place, is the Convent of Barratojo, inhabited by an order of 
 monks, to the number of twenty, who use a coarse habit, and 
 practise great austerities, observing long fasts, and sleeping 
 upon stones. About three or four weeks since, a troop of 
 banditti broke in upon them, stripped them of all they 
 possessed, and murdered several travellers during the time 
 they retained possession of the monastery. They are reported 
 to have cutoff the breasts of one female with savage brutahty, 
 and after plundering her, to have left her weltering in her 
 blood. At length a guard of soldiers appeared on the Serra; 
 the banditti fled, and have not since been heard of. These 
 robbers are supposed to have been fugitives from Silveira's 
 army. The regular military have taken up their quarters in 
 the convent, and parties of them are out day and night on the 
 watch, but still the pass is at present regarded as dangerous. 
 
 Our descent from this elevation was down an almost preci- 
 pitous road, strewed with fragments of granite rock, which 
 rendered the footing of the mules, under the weight of the 
 liteira, extremely insecure. Fine mountain views have accom- 
 panied the whole of this day's course. Towards evening we 
 reached Guimaraens, and found comfortable quarters at the 
 " Nova hospedaria e casa de Pasto," in the square opposite 
 the cathedral, to which the sounds of orchestral music imme- 
 diately attracted us upon our arrival. It happened to be the 
 anniversary of the defeat of the Spaniards at Aljubarrota ; and 
 accordingly, sacred music, masses, and processions, had been 
 kept up throughout the day. The violins introduced into the 
 orchestra had a bad effect, being miserably played. The 
 effect, however, of numerous lighted tapers in the church, and 
 particularly of those at the high altar, was very imposing ; 
 
300 PORTUGAL 
 
 and Nossa Senhora d'Oliveira, arrayed in a superb dress of 
 gold brocade, and having a crown on her head worth, accord- 
 ing to report, six thousand pounds of our money, and a breast- 
 plate enriched with precious stones, added much to the splen- 
 dour of the scene. Numerous devotees continued kneeling, 
 until a late hour at night, in adoration before this gorgeously- 
 dressed image in the nave of the cathedral. 
 
 An olive tree, sacred to our Lady of Oliveira, is preserved 
 with religious veneration in the open space fronting the cathe- 
 dral, and is defended by an enclosure of iron rails. Near it is a 
 stone cross, once apparently adorned with a profusion of gilding, 
 which contains images of our Saviour and the blessed Virgin. 
 The opposite side of the square is occupied by the town-house, 
 in which the first corregidor of the province resides, and near 
 it are the buildings employed for public offices. The houses 
 have curious lattices affixed to the windows, as at Braga, but 
 the streets are infinitely more handsome. To the west-south- 
 west of the Campo Torraia, not far from the public fountain 
 and vegetable market, there is a detached tower, which con- 
 tains a remarkably large and handsome gilt bell, with its name 
 inscribed, as well as that of the donor, and the date of its con- 
 struction. The population of Guimaraens may be about seven 
 thousand souls, one of whose principal articles of traffic is 
 dried fruit, particularly plums in boxes. 
 
 Guimaraens is beautifully situated about three leagues from 
 Braga, on an elevated plain remarkable for its fertility, be- 
 tween the two rivers Ave and Visela. The early kings of 
 Portugal made it their principal residence, the remains of 
 whose venerable castle are still to be seen upon the side of a 
 mountain which overhangs the town. The neighbouring warm 
 baths were in great repute even as early as the times of the 
 Romans, who erected a temple in honor of Ceres, on the site 
 subsequently occupied by a Christian temple dedicated to St. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 301 
 
 James. It was likewise the birth-place of Alphonso Henri- 
 quez, who was proclaimed by his troops on the field of Ou- 
 rique, sovereign of Portugal. The gardens and woods to the 
 south-west of the town are extremely pretty, and behind the 
 eastern part rises a very lofty mountain of steep ascent, about 
 three-fourths of whose height are clothed with luxuriant forest 
 trees. Its bare and denticulated summit resembles in some 
 degree the appearance of the Mont Saleve, which stands a 
 little distance to the east of Geneva. 
 
 Everything here is in abundance ; vegetables, fruit, corn, 
 oil, and wine. We purchased some well-fed beef that would 
 have been lauded by a jury of English graziers, for twopence 
 the pound ; and a large flagon of wine, which could not have 
 held less than two imperial quarts, and infinitely superior to 
 all the ordinary wines of France, cost us only one penny. 
 The fruitfulness of the surrounding valleys is quite proverbial. 
 
 Amid whose umbrage green her silver head 
 Th' unfading olive lifts ; here vine-clad hills 
 Lay forth their purple store, and sunny vales 
 In prospect vast their level laps expand. 
 
 altogether corresponding with Homer's description of a highly- 
 favoured region, 
 
 — — — — a.\\' ayad^ jiev, 
 
 EivfioTos, ev/xqXos, olvoirXijOijs, TroXiiirvpos, 
 
 HoM. Od. 
 
 We had been fairly driven out of the sacristy of the cathe- 
 dral by the impertinent curiosity of the country people, who 
 seemed to think an Englishman a much greater novelty than 
 the gaudy attire of our Lady of Oliveira. The canons, how- 
 ever, who were reported to us to be of high birth, aware of 
 the annoyance with which we had met, had the courtesy to 
 request that we would return an hour before vespers to the 
 cathedral, when our curiosity should be gratified with a quiet 
 
302 PORTUGAL 
 
 inspection of the building, the valuable spoils taken from the 
 Spaniards by John I. in the battle of Aljubarrota, and other 
 precious vessels of the sanctuary. 
 
 The western door of the cathedral is in the form of a regular 
 Gothic arch of the florid style, supported by three plain co- 
 lumns on either side, with grotesque capitals, and ornamented 
 with a variety of mouldings, one consisting of a series of balls, 
 the next of rosettes divided from each other by square devices ; 
 and then alternate plain retiring mouldings, with the strings 
 of rosettes repeated. The capitals of two pilasters, set deep 
 within the wall at the angles of the building, consist of winged 
 animals. Above the arch is a noble window, enriched with 
 sculpture, apparently of the age and style of the windows in 
 the church of St. James at Dieppe ; but the centre of this 
 window has been walled up, and again perforated to admit 
 four small round windows, the effect of which is very bad. 
 The side- walls of the interior are covered with painted tiles ; 
 and in the adjoining cloister, or rather vestibule, we found two 
 stone coffins of very remote date, which once contained in all 
 probability the remains of former priors of this collegiate 
 church. The architectural character of the building consists, 
 as it must be apparent, of a variety of styles belonging to 
 different eras. 
 
 In the sacristy we were shown an immensely large and 
 weighty crucifix of silver, which is carried in procession on 
 great festivals ; a much-valued relic, the skull of St. Rodrigo, 
 set in silver, and kept in a silver box lined with red velvet ; a 
 custode or vessel for containing the sacramental wafer, curi- 
 ously enchased and of silver gilt, its form Gothic, with turrets 
 and towers above the centre circle, and sea-horses and sphinxes 
 at the four angles of the base ; in this the sacrament is carried 
 out to the sick and dying : a beautiful silver cross of the same 
 character, which is carried in procession on the day of Corpus 
 Christi. Inscribed in old characters round the rim of one of 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 303 
 
 the gold chalices, we observed, " Hie est calix sanguinis mei 
 novi testamenti." There are a great variety of other vessels, 
 chalices of gold and silver of great antiquity, embossed, with 
 circles of bells under the rims ; and curious boxes of gold and 
 silver inlaid with precious stones, all of sufficient interest to 
 claim the attention of an antiquary. "We were shown like- 
 wise a portable altar, or little oratory, composed of massive 
 silver gilt, which was found among the spoils taken in the 
 camp of Philip of Castile ; and the font in which the first king 
 of Portugal, Alphonso Henriquez, was baptised. The remains 
 of his palace are now converted into barracks for the reception 
 of soldiers. 
 
 At night the bells of the collegiate church-tower, opposite 
 the windows of our Estalagem, and which was lighted up with 
 torches, pealed gaily and loud, to our great annoyance, for 
 some hours, accompanied by the occasional discharge of rock- 
 ets and muskets, in honor of the festival. 
 
 The atmosphere having become much cooler in consequence 
 of a heavy fall of rain, (a heathen at Braga would have said 
 that the devotees of the Mount had propitiated Jupiter Plu- 
 vialis,) our journey was rendered pleasant to Amarante, whence 
 this letter is dated. Passing to the eastward of Guimaraens, 
 and between two convents charmingly situated in the middle 
 of their quintas, we wound up a steep ascent, through a wood 
 of chestnut and oak trees, among which were scattered in 
 wild confusion enormous masses of granite rock, some per- 
 fectly round. The scenery became truly romantic ; and be- 
 tween two gigantic rocks, which had fallen against each other 
 so as still to leave an open space, a fine view presented itself 
 over the town of Guimaraens, the old castle on a height to the 
 north, the pointed remains of the ancient town- walls, the con- 
 vents and churches, and the surrounding green inclosures, 
 vying in richness and cultivation, water and woodland, with 
 the most favoured landscapes in England. 
 
304 PORTUGAL 
 
 We now crossed the Serra de Santa Catharina, having to 
 the left above us the vi^reck of a granite mountain dispersed in 
 rude masses over a w^ide and dreary waste, some approaching 
 the road, and others apparently poised in air, so as to create 
 an involuntary shudder as we passed beneath them. This 
 mountain route led us for a considerable distance over a soil 
 composed of granitic fragments spread far and wide apparently 
 in ages past, by some awful convulsion of nature. The descent 
 from the wild Venda de Serra into the beautifully wooded and 
 extensive valley of Pombeiro, is precipitous and difficult. Its 
 verdant and umbrageous appearance presented a delightful 
 contrast to the cheerless and arid Serras seen to the east, and 
 beyond again to the south-east. Traversing the valley, and 
 crossing a mountain torrent by a small bridge of granite, a 
 steep narrow road, nearly hid under the mantling canopy of 
 vines for some considerable way, led to a convent of Benedic- 
 tines on the left, the road being divided by a length of wall 
 from their vineyards, orchards, and gardens. These monks 
 must live in great luxury, and their convent commands de- 
 lightful views to the west. 
 
 The valleys about Lixa increase in breadth, are well peopled, 
 and skilfully cultivated. After passing this village, which is 
 only a league from Amarante, we had to traverse an elevated 
 plain, whence we obtained a fine view of a distant range of 
 mountains to the east-north-east of our route, among which 
 one insulated hill in the form of a cone, and having precipitous 
 sides clothed with a dark coloured heath, peculiarly arrested 
 our attention, as distinguished by its singular shape from the 
 surrounding groupe. Late in the evening we reached Ama- 
 rante, thus described by Link : " It is a considerable town or 
 villa, situated on the Tamega, which divides it from the suburb, 
 and over which is a handsome stone bridge. This town be- 
 longs to the Corregimento of Guimaraens, but has only one 
 Juiz de Fora. The country is uncommonly pleasant, the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 305 
 
 valley, like those of the Minho, being cultivated and shaded 
 with wood ; not only oaks and chestnuts, but pines, figs, and 
 cork trees appear, and quintas adorned with lofty Portuguese 
 cypresses ; a fine river that animates the whole ; and Ama- 
 rante, both in a physical and moral point of view, well deserves 
 its charming name." But this letter is almost as eternal as the 
 imaginary flower, so we will now conclude it. 
 
 THE AMERICAN ALOE. 
 
 Port. 
 
 V 
 
306 PORTUGAL 
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 Turn we a moment fancy's rapid flight 
 To vigorous soils and climes of fair extent ; 
 Where, by the potent sun elated high. 
 The vineyard swells refulgent on the day ; 
 Spreads o'er the vale; or up the mountain climbs. 
 Profuse ; and drinks amid the sunny rocks, 
 From cliff to cliff encreased, the heightened blaze. 
 Low bend the weighty boughs. The clusters clear. 
 Half through the foliage seen, or ardent flame, 
 Or shine transparent; while perfection breathes 
 White o'er the turgent film the living dew. 
 As thus they brighten with exalted juice, 
 Touched into flavour by the mingling ray ; 
 The rural youth and virgins o'er the field. 
 Each fond for each to cull the autumnal prime. 
 Exulting rove, and speak the vintage nigh. 
 Then comes the crushing swain ; the country floats. 
 And foams unbounded with the mashy flood ; 
 That by degrees fermented and refined. 
 Hound the raised nations pours the cup of joy. 
 
 Thomson's Autumn. 
 
 Pezo da Regoa, 1827. 
 
 The modern appearance of the town of Amarante by no 
 means corresponds with the glowing description quoted from 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 307 
 
 Link at the conclusion of our last letter. The many neat 
 houses noticed by that traveller, are now completely destroyed, 
 or reduced to such a state of ruin, that their skeletons alone 
 remain in proof of the injurious effect of Soult's sanguinary 
 attacks upon the town and suburbs. We crossed the Tamega, 
 which divides the two parts of the place by a very handsome 
 bridge of three arches, still bearing evident marks on the stone- 
 work of the different conflicts which it has witnessed. 
 
 As soon as the light of day returned, we set out to view the 
 two positions taken up by Soult's troops before the town ; the 
 first when he was completely foiled by Silveira, and driven 
 back across the Serras to the east-north-east, in the direction 
 of Caldas de Gerez, immediately preceding his occupation of 
 Braga ; and the second after the capture of the latter place by 
 the French troops, who then invested Amarante on the south- 
 west, and took it from that point by assault. 
 
 The next object of interest was the ground taken up on a 
 recent occasion by the rebel forces of Silveira, to the number 
 of three thousand men, in the open spaces of a pine-wood 
 overhanging the company's newly formed road, which, avoid- 
 ing the more incommodious passage over the Serra do Mara5 
 by the village of Campeao, leaving Carneiro to the left, leads 
 through the village of Teixeira to Pezo da Regoa, the great 
 mart for the Douro wines. This position immediately fronts 
 the town. The bridge over the Tamega, fortified and bristling 
 with guns, formed the centre of the Marquess Angeja's 
 position, who had under his command about seven thousand 
 constitutionalists. His left occupied the extensive buildings 
 of the Dominican convent, with one side on a line with the 
 river ; but its principal facade, (in the style of Roman archi- 
 tecture,) running north and south, looks upon the open space 
 on the right bank of the Tamega, which we had crossed 
 the previous evening on our way over the bridge into the 
 suburbs. The olive grounds belonging to the convent, which. 
 
308 PORTUGAL 
 
 from their elevated situation entirely command the passage of 
 the river, formed the extreme left of his position. It being the 
 month of April, the waters of the Tamega still maintained a 
 high level, and that circumstance presented another obstacle 
 to Silveira's attempt. No boat could venture across from the 
 left bank, as the positions of the Marquess enfiladed the 
 approach in that quarter ; and indeed such vi^as their strength, 
 as to render every attempt that might be made on the centre, 
 or upon either of his wings, perfectly hopeless. The pass of 
 Amarante may be considered as the key to Porto, and indeed 
 to the province of the Minho e Douro. 
 
 To the north of the Dominican church and convent, a steep 
 street leads up to the ancient church of San Gonsallo, on a 
 small platform, to the right of which, looking southward towards 
 the bridge, we found a small battery of six guns, which had 
 hastily been formed from mud and straw strongly compacted, 
 wicker-work, and branches of oak-trees, faggots, barrels filled 
 with earth, kitchen dressers, and chests furnished in the urgency 
 of the moment from the contiguous houses. These had been 
 covered with earth and turf, and openings were left for the 
 discharge of musketry. Thus the convent, the church, and 
 the open space in front, the bridge, and the river, were 
 effectually defended. The Marquess's right was stationed in 
 the form of a semicircle on the other side of the river upon a 
 height to the south-west of Silveira's position, and command- 
 ing for a considerable distance the line of road running down 
 from the pine-wood to the suburb. A small chapel stood in 
 the centre, immediately under which numerous guns planted 
 along a course of old vine-terraces were ready to play upon 
 the rebels, had their empty bravados and daring insults been 
 followed up by any positive attempt. Intimidated by these 
 formidable preparations, the rebel chief at length retired 
 across the mountains into Spain. As the capture, however, 
 of Amarante would open the road to Porto, and the robberies 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 309 
 
 and murders committed by Silveira on his approach are still 
 fresh in the public recollection, a small garrison is left here to 
 limit any future incursions of the absolutists to the left bank 
 of the Tamega. 
 
 Amarante is included in the jurisdiction of Guimaraens. 
 Its population can scarcely amount to two thousand souls. 
 Our estalagem, kept by a Frenchman, had neither bed nor 
 board to offer us. His wine was as sour as vinegar ; the Broa, 
 or coarse bread, a yellow composition of maize-flower, resem- 
 bling saw-dust and yoke of egg, had we been able even to 
 masticate it, would have proved a burden too ponderous for 
 our digestion ; and as for sleep, we had that small portion 
 which could be procured during a state of nocturnal penance 
 on the supper-table and two narrow forms put side by side 
 together. We were too late in the season to be able to obtain 
 any peaches, for which the town and immediate neighbour- 
 hood are celebrated ; and had it not been for the now waning 
 contents of our friendly condessa, we should in all probability 
 have starved at Amarante, which, "in a physical and moral 
 point of view, so well deserves its charming name." 
 
 A piece of paper twisted and put into a common saucer 
 filled with oil, was the only sort of lamp which the estalagem 
 afforded, and this poor substitute scarcely afforded sufficient 
 light to distinguish the succession of ragged children who con- 
 tinually broke uninvited into our apartment, to take away 
 burning embers from the fire, for it was cold, to their own 
 hearths. This inn was much on a par with the worst of the 
 Spanish posadas, in which the traveller has to satisfy himself 
 with an empty apartment, void in all other respects than in- 
 sects and filth, and where he can get nothing but what he may 
 have brought with him. The same dull tranquillity seems to 
 prevail in the streets of Amarante which we had observed at 
 Braga. Neither of these towns are populous, and the manu- 
 factories, such as they were, have declined in both places. 
 
3[0 PORTUGAL 
 
 The superstitious inhabitants of the northern provinces of Por- 
 tugal wear a charm round the neck, made of ebony or some 
 dark-coloured wood, called " figas," to avert the attacks of 
 evil spirits. Here, too, as in all Roman Catholic countries, 
 the ceremonies of the church are made to contribute to the 
 amusement of the people. A procession has just passed 
 through the streets, with a priest in rich robes under a canopy, 
 " carrying the holy sacrament about to be gazed upon," 
 attended by a train of monks, canons, and choristers, which 
 would have been imposing enough, had not a limping drum- 
 mer, who was intoxicated, and a sort of buffoon with a fiddle, 
 playing a thousand antics, preceded the party, and destroyed 
 the illusion. 
 
 We had originally intended to have gone hence by the 
 village of Ovelha across the Serra do Marao to Villa Real, a 
 Comarca town, situated on the Corgo in the province of Tras 
 OS Montes, so called from its being on the other side of that 
 lofty range of mountains, the Marao, by which it is divided 
 from the province of the Entre Minho e Douro. That route, 
 however, having been represented to us as both tedious and 
 uninteresting, we resolved upon taking the new road, which 
 passes to the south,-east up a valley, whose sides are clothed 
 with pine-woods, immediately under the position recently 
 occupied by Silveira's troops. This road has within these last 
 five years, much to the credit of the parties engaged in ,the 
 enterprise, been converted from a mere goat-track into a good 
 broad open road for the carriage of goods and the passage of 
 mules. It is not yet completed ; but when it has reached its 
 intended extent at Regoa, the character of this mountain-pass 
 will be worthy of being compared in some degree to the routes 
 over the Col de Tende, and Mont Cenis. Masses of granite 
 are seen everywhere intruding themselves among the piner 
 trees, which skirt the road. The view from the summit of this 
 route back upon the wooded vale in which Amarante stands. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 311 
 
 the winding course of the Tamega, and the naked line of the 
 Serra, which trends to the north-east, is singularly beautiful. 
 
 Link took, on quitting Amarante, the direct route of the 
 Serra do Mara5, the summits of which he describes as barren ; 
 but the rallies as beautifully cultivated and enriched with 
 shade. Here, he says, all is still granite. Beyond the village 
 of Ovelha we ascended the lofty Serra do Marao itself, and 
 found the road steep, but not incommodious. The mountains 
 are naked and destitute of trees or bushes, being only covered 
 with an arid meagre turf, without projecting rocks, or the 
 brooks and clefts of Gerez, but, on the contrary, more rounded ; 
 in short, these are quite a different kind of mountains from 
 those, being also much inferior in natural beauties r the species 
 of stone of which it is composed is also different. Beyond 
 Ovelha, slaty granite is still seen, but is soon followed by 
 black argillaceous slate, which is very coarsely slated and 
 mingled with mica. On the summit it forms bare rocks, and 
 loses its slaty fracture, so that it might be taken for trap. We 
 there discovered in it a remarkable and hitherto unknown 
 fossil, which we called maranite. From the summit we saw 
 a part of the adjacent province of Tras os Montes, with its 
 considerably high, but naked and arid chains of mountains. 
 In height the Serra do Marao is not inferior to that of the 
 Gerez, but probably exceeds it. The snow frequently lies on 
 the summit during a month, and was formerly collected in 
 pits and cellars, which are still seen, and from which it was 
 carried down the Douro to Porto. This trade had for some 
 years ceased, but has lately been revived. 
 
 Again, — we descended the south side of the mountain, and 
 came to a large village called Campeao, on a small mountain- 
 plain, which lies considerably high. The village with its 
 woods and fields forms a charming island amid these naked 
 mountains. The soil is moist ; for at a certain depth water 
 springs in every part, the plain being almost entirely sur- 
 
312 PORTUGAL 
 
 rounded with considerable eminences. The small woods con- 
 sist of chestnut, oak, and birch ; trees which are only seen in 
 Portugal on the highest ranges of mountains. Much millet 
 and rye are cultivated in the fields. The cold in winter is 
 very severe, snow falls, and even the summer nights are for a 
 long time very bleak. From Campeao we set off for Pezo da 
 Regoa. At first we met with fine chestnut hanging-woods 
 along the declivities of the mountains ; but afterwards, about 
 a league from Campeao, at a small town called Santa Martha, 
 began hills covered with vines, and continued two leagues 
 without interruption, as far as Pezo. 
 
 After a short ascent from Amarante by the Wine Company's 
 new road, we descended into a very rich and beautiful valley, the 
 towering line of the Serra do Marao running for a considerable 
 distance to our left. This route leads directly from Porto and 
 Penafi.el by Lamego up to the frontier fortress of Almeida 
 in the Beira, and we overtook several large trains of mules 
 with merchandise proceeding thither. The deficiency of good 
 roads in Portugal, of canals and navigable rivers, the accom- 
 modation of waggons and other means of transport, render the 
 communications between the provinces for the exchange of 
 their valuable productions difficult and limited. To this 
 cause may be attributed the wretched state of agriculture in 
 the Alemtejo and Estremadura, and the necessity of importing 
 Spanish corn into Lisbon, Porto, and into the province of Al- 
 garve. The long extent of coast possessed by Portugal, does 
 certainly in some degree remedy these impediments to its 
 internal commerce, for the greater part of the different pro- 
 ductions of the provinces is transported from point to point by 
 coasting vessels. Braga, Guimaraens, Coimbra, Abrantes, 
 Leiria, Braganza, Beja, Covilham, Elvas, and Portalegre, are 
 the principal trading towns in the interior of the provinces ; 
 and the largest fairs are held at Viseu, Evora, Golegan, La- 
 mego, and Pezo da Regoa. . In the latter pl^-ce, early in the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 313 
 
 spring of every year, the Royal Company of the culture of the 
 vine in the Upper Douro, instituted by the Marquess Pombal 
 1756, determine for home consumption and exportation the 
 classes of the Feitoria wine, or Vinhos de Feitoria, and the 
 Ramo, or Vinhos de Ramo ; arrange the prices to be paid to 
 the farmers, and make their own exclusive purchases. 
 
 As there are no regular conveyances established for the car- 
 riage of goods from place to place within the provinces, an 
 agreement must be made, in case of necessity, with the mule- 
 teer or the owner of the train himself, who is always ready with 
 any number of mules to take a lading of goods to whatever 
 destination may be fixed upon. In addition to the regular 
 post which passes between Lisbon and Porto, there is an Esta- 
 fette established, which consists of twelve mules. They are 
 despatched from either place every Tuesday night in the week 
 at eleven o'clock, and meet near the town of Pombal, which 
 is situated nearly midway between the two cities. The com- 
 munications by sea between Porto and Lisbon are regularly 
 maintained by small coasters, and within these last three 
 years by the steam vessel, which, under good management, 
 would prove a very productive concern, and extremely useful 
 to the merchants of both places. 
 
 At the termination of the valley which we were describing, 
 the road gradually became worse and worse, as we ascended 
 a steep and tedious hill to the Estalagem, called the Quintella 
 dos Padroens do Alta Teixeira, reputed to be the best in Por- 
 tugal, and, as we found, furnished with every comfort which 
 the most fastidious traveller could desire. In addition to fine 
 suites of apartments, a large public dining-room, and bed- 
 chambers vying in comfort and cleanliness with those of any 
 English hotel, we observed a large handsome bar in the house, 
 after the fashion of our inns, from which every article required 
 was delivered with the utmost promptitude. We should have 
 done better in pushing on to this Estalagem from Guimaraens, 
 
814 PORTUGAL 
 
 instead of halting so long at Amarante, but we were not suffi- 
 ciently early in our movements. 
 
 We were now immediately opposite the highest point of the 
 Marao, which is bare, dark, and bleak, near which is situated 
 a little chapel called San Vicente do Alto do Marao. The 
 breeze from this lofty summit, even in the middle of the day, 
 was so chilling, as to compel us to have recourse to our cloaks ; 
 whereas in the valley below, not two hours before, we had 
 experienced an oppressive degree of heat. Ice is preserved in 
 the hollows of this mountain for the use of the towns, and when 
 the summers are not extremely warm, in some of its higher 
 parts the snows remain undissolved. The mountain scenery 
 discovered from the windows of the Estalagem, and the views 
 of the rich vallies below, opening to the south, give this place 
 a peculiar interest ; and we could not avoid expressing our 
 astonishment that Portuguese families should not more fre- 
 quently take up their residence here during the summer for 
 the benefit of its bracing air. 
 
 Numerous cottages of hardy peasants are seen scattered 
 about these wild regions, the appearance of whose mountain 
 habitations, deprived of every attraction but that of home, 
 recalled to our recollection those beautiful lines in the Tra- 
 veller — 
 
 Thus every good his native wilds impart 
 Imprints the patriot passion on his heart ; 
 And ev'n those hills that round his mansion rise. 
 Enhance the bliss his scanty fund supplies : ' 
 Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms. 
 And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms ; 
 And as a child, when scaring sounds molest. 
 Clings close and closer to the mother's breast. 
 So the loud torrent and the whirlwind's roar 
 But bind him to his native mountains more. 
 
 Our unfortunate host of Quintella had recently sustained 
 a very heavy loss by the passage of Silveira's troops, who 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 315 
 
 committed the greatest excesses in his house, rapine and 
 murder almost always marking in bloody characters the career 
 of those marauding bandits, while the Apostolic generalissimo 
 refused to make any reparation for the injuries done, and even 
 to pay for the provisions which, during some days, had been 
 furnished for his own consumption. Worthy of his cause was 
 such a redoubtable captain ! 
 
 Hence we descended a steep and unpleasant road to Me- 
 zao Frio, where we found the country people assembled at a 
 ffite and a fair. Our cloaks were now gladly discarded ; vv^e 
 came immediately in sight of the Douro and the wine country, 
 and again felt the oppressive heat of a Portuguese sun. In 
 many places the grapes were already ripe and sweet. A very 
 long league of road, at least so it appeared to us, running 
 partly along the right bank of the Douro, on which were nu- 
 merous barks making their way against the current of the 
 river, with large white sails filled by a favouring breeze, or 
 drawn over the rapids by oxen, brought us to Pezo da Regoa, 
 which is situated in the Comarca of Villa Real. 
 
 The quantity of empty casks which encumbered the streets 
 gave token of the approaching vintage, as of our having now 
 reached the principal mart of the wine country. We had the 
 singular good fortune to alight at a blacksmith's shop, whose 
 wife undertook to receive and provide for travellers in a small 
 room with one window, containing four beds, situated over 
 her husband's forge, Here we were about to resign ourselves 
 to heat, smoke, and sledge-hammers, when a reprieve arrived 
 in the shape of a friendly invitation to excellent quarters from 
 Senhor Louren^o Henriquez da Silva Pereira, which not all 
 the assertions of our landlady that her linen was remarkably 
 good, clean, and white, could induce us to forego. Our party 
 at supper consisted of the worthy old vicar of the place, whose 
 characteristic virtues were strongly impressed upon a most 
 benignant countenance. 
 
31G PORTUGAL 
 
 ■ quo fit ut omnis 
 
 UU\^ lib Ub 1^1111119 
 
 Votivi pateat veluti descripta tabelli 
 Vita sen is .... 
 
 an intelligent Irishman, domiciliated as tutor in a Portuguese 
 family ; and a native of the district, Senhor Gomes, a young 
 man, who, to a perfect knowledge of the learned languages, 
 united a familiar acquaintance with the best works in his own 
 tongue, the Spanish, Italian, German, French, and English, 
 as well as Hebrew, and could converse fluently in all of them. 
 Pezo da Regoa, in the words of Link, " is a market town or 
 concelho, celebrated as a depot for port wine, and itself pro- 
 ducing some of the best quality, and is situated on the southern 
 declivity of a hill close to the Douro, which here forces its way 
 between steep hills consisting of thin strata of argillaceous 
 slate mixed with mica. We beheld vine-covered hills as far 
 as our eyes could reach, sometimes adorned with neat houses. 
 The bed of the river is stony, and the stream in summer navi- 
 gable only for small boats, though in winter ships of conside- 
 rable size can ascend it. Many proprietors of vineyards and 
 dealers in wine do not reside in the town, but in the houses 
 dispersed about the country. It belongs to a tract of land on 
 the banks of the Douro called " O Alto Douro ;" commencing 
 to the eastward at Villa Real, or, more properly, San Joa5 
 da Pesqueira, extending to the spot where the small river 
 Teixeira falls into the Douro, and comprehending a tract of 
 somewhat above four geographical miles in length, by three in 
 breadth. This is the tract of land which produces port wine. 
 The situation of Pezo is very favourable to the vine. The 
 steep hills slope to the southward, and consist of a blackish 
 slate, which by its great heat contributes not a little to the 
 general warmth of these parts ; the valley is very narrow, the 
 lofty Marao defends it from the north wind, nor can the sea- 
 breezes reach it. In short, this spot is very favourable to 
 warmth in summer, as the neighbourhood of the snow- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 317 
 
 covered Marao is said to cause severe winters. The heat of 
 the atmosphere here is sometimes so violent, that the air might 
 be supposed to proceed from the mouth of an oven. The 
 badness of the water renders this place unpleasant, and in the 
 neighbourhood, along the banks of the Douro, are marshes 
 caused by the inundations of the river in winter, which give 
 rise to the agues that prevail here. Thus it is no wonder that 
 the principal inhabitants do not reside in the town, but in their 
 vineyards around it. We thought ourselves happy in this hot 
 valley, which is adorned with a great number of remarkable 
 plants partly brought by the Douro out of Spain, and sown here, 
 and partly indigenous to the vale. Whenever true knowledge 
 shall beam upon this misrepresented people, then may their 
 lot be sweetened by an increase of liberty !" 
 
 Pezo is situated in the centre of the wine-country, on a 
 height which overlooks Regoa and the Douro, with the Fac- 
 tory-house and company's warehouses upon its banks. This 
 district extends two leagues on either side of the river towards 
 Porto, as far as Barceiros, and up the river nine leagues, as 
 far as Figueiras ; and its breadth may be from three to four 
 leagues. The north-west side of the river gives the best wine, 
 owing to its southern aspect, and to the poor rocky soil retain- 
 ing its moisture. The vines are generally cultivated in ter- 
 races, and the soil is turned over twice in the year by the 
 hand-labour of Gallegos. Both places are supplied with bread 
 from Lamego, on the other side of the Douro, in the province 
 of Beira, whose population is said to consist principally of 
 noblemen, priests, and bakers. We observed numerous Gali- 
 cian women hurrying down the hill from that place to the 
 Douro, to sell at Regoa their meal and flower packed in pig- 
 skins, bundles of furze-grass, and faggots. During the time 
 that Silveira remained in the occupation of Lamego, these cus- 
 tomary communications were interrupted, and the ferry-boats 
 were sunk ; in consequence of which the greatest misery pre- 
 
318 PORTUGAL 
 
 vailed at Regoa, whose industrious inhabitants are chiefly 
 Gallego wine-porters, who live on yellow heavy bread made 
 from the maize or Indian corn, a composition pronounced by 
 those that can eat it to be particularly wholesome ; a little 
 green wine, boiled chestnuts, bacalhao, or rice seasoned with 
 the oil of sardinhas. In fact, the place is very small, and can- 
 not contain more than two thousand inhabitants. During the 
 continuance of the fair here, in the month of February or 
 March, the neighbouring quintas and private houses are 
 crowded with merchants, as there are no inns for their recep- 
 tion. The members of the High Douro Company have a 
 building situated in the centre of the town, which is exclu- 
 sively appropriated to their own accommodation. 
 
 Good hyson or gunpowder tea costs here about four crusados, 
 or nine shillings of our money, the pound, and is considered 
 dear. Black tea is not in vogue in Portugal, excepting in 
 lai'ge families and for servants, and costs nearly three shillings 
 the pound. The use of tea is becoming more common among 
 the lower orders of the Portuguese. 
 
 To the north-east of Pezo, at about the distance of a mile, 
 is seen the Chapel of St. Peter, which is entirely surrounded 
 by vineyards ; and to the west of the height on which Pezo is 
 situated, across a deep valley, in front of Senhor Lourenifo's 
 house, of nearly a mile and a half in breadth, and running 
 from north to south a length of three miles, altogether occupied 
 by vineyards, is the hill of Mourinho, behind which are seen 
 the frowning summits of the dark Marao. This elevated line 
 has its sides wholly cultivated in vineyards on terraces to its 
 very summit, and prettily adorned with numerous white- 
 looking farm-houses, which form a beautiful contrast with the 
 verdant appearance of the vines. The parish of Poiares, 
 situated likewise on a height clothed with vineyards, is on the 
 other side of the little river Corgo, and to the east of Pezo, 
 Towards the south, upon the left bank of the Douro, the 
 
^H^ 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 319 
 
 district is not so exclusively a wine country as in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of Regoa ; and the wine produced from its vine- 
 yards being of an inferior quality, is not exported, but reserved 
 for home consumption. 
 
 In crossing the Douro from Regoa to Lamego, we left the 
 Chapel of Sao Domingos to the left, and winding up a narrow 
 lane for some distance, found ourselves at length upon a new 
 and excellent road, which is conducted by a gradual ascent up 
 the side of a steep mountain. At the villages, which both bear 
 the name of Portella, and are only divided from each other by 
 the distance of a mile, the inhabitants had been recently 
 blessed by a visit from the troops of Silveira. As a peasant 
 told us, the hero himself tore into the place like a madman, 
 and drank in the open streets at a wine-house like a muleteer. 
 His irregular troops committed great excesses at Lamego, 
 and severe exactions were imposed upon the merchants. 
 He entered that city on horseback, crying out himself Vivas 
 for Silveira ; and compelled the inhabitants to decorate their 
 houses in honour of his arrival, even with the sheets from their 
 beds. 
 
 Another anecdote of this worthy may be related, in order to 
 make his real character still more clearly understood. In the 
 neighbourhood of Lamego he came into a house at noon, and 
 demanded dinner to be served instantly. Some unavoidable 
 delay occurred, which so exasperated the noble chieftain, that 
 he went up into the kitchen, flogged the whole of the servants 
 with his horsewhip, and dealt out an unmeasured portion of 
 discipline to the unfortunate cook, who was not equally preci- 
 pitate in his measures with himself. 
 
 The Marchioness of Chaves, who accompanied her husband 
 on this occasion, stole from the house in Lamego, into which 
 she had intruded herself, a silver ewer and basin, and a valu- 
 able counterpane of gold tissue, worth altogether a consi- 
 derable sum. She rode on a mule, having a military sash 
 
320 PORTUGAL 
 
 fastened round her waist, and her hat tied down by a crimson 
 kerchief, together with the common soldiers, and styled her- 
 self Commandante of the Caipadores. An Amazon in appear- 
 ance, she is publicly accused of having encouraged her men 
 on the line of their march to the commission of the foulest acts 
 of murder, rape, and pillage, in the houses of those persons 
 known to be favourable to constitutional principles. It seems, 
 upon the whole, clear that the conduct of Silveira and his 
 banditti, in this last attempt to overthrow the liberties of their 
 country, has been such as to excite the greatest horror and 
 disgust against his party, and to have converted a very large 
 proportion of his friends even into determined opponents and 
 personal enemies. 
 
 The Comarca town of Lamego is situated at the base of the 
 Mount Penude, on the banks of the river Balsemao, and in a 
 country celebrated for its fertility and the excellent qualities 
 of its wines. Its foundation is attributed to the people of 
 Laconia, 360 years before Christ ; and it is said to have been 
 rebuilt by Trajan, and denominated by him Urbs Lamaceno- 
 rum. The cathedral, which we visited, was built by the 
 command of Count Henry ; and besides this, there is another 
 interesting building which was formerly a mosque, but now 
 converted into a place of Christian worship. The episcopal 
 palace is a large but gloomy structure. In the old church, 
 situated to the right of the road upon entering Lamego, the 
 celebrated convocation of the Cortes was held in 1144, in which 
 the military election of Alphonso I. was confirmed by the pre- 
 lates, nobles, and commoners of the realm, assembled for the 
 purpose of determining the basis of a constitutional govern- 
 ment and a limited monarchy. 
 
 " It is asserted," says Link, " that the Lacobriga of Strabo 
 was situated near Lamego. The land lies very high, and near 
 the town is barren ; but considerable eminences surround it. 
 This adds to the charms of the declivity towards the Douro, 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 321 
 
 which is one of the finest wine-mountains, and produces excel- 
 lent wine. In some parts the road is excellent, and planted 
 with trees. The slate of the Douro ceases on the heights 
 round the town ; after this all is granite, which is not without 
 metallic veins, and on the eminences near the town brings 
 with it plumbago." 
 
 The ruins of the old Moorish castle overhanging the town, 
 and a fine reservoir of water for the garrison, are still shown to 
 the inquisitive traveller. Lamego is however, upon the whole, 
 a sad nasty, dull, and wretched place ; although some few of 
 the streets are tolerable, the generality of them are narrow, 
 dark, and filthy. Here as at Regoa, as the soldiers have 
 nothing to do, small parties of them parade the streets in the 
 day time for the amusement, it would seem, of the shop- 
 keepers. The royal arms in the several offices and churches 
 are at this time covered with black cloth throughout every part 
 of the kingdom, in consequence of the death of the Queen of 
 Portugal and Empress of Brasil. 
 
 In crossing^the Cima Avoens on our return from Lamego to 
 the Douro, we could easily discern, at ten miles' distance 
 beyond Regoa, the comparatively modern town of Villa Real, 
 situated to the east of the Marao, and surrounded by moun- 
 tains. The soil of its neighbourhood is particularly favourable 
 to the growth of vines and olive trees. Public tranquillity 
 had not been restored in the Tras os Montes at the period of 
 oui- visit to the province, in which from their possessions the 
 family of the Marquess of Chaves have great influence over 
 the minds of the peasantry ; and we abandoned therefore our 
 original intention of penetrating farther in that direction. 
 Owing to the recent disturbances, the landholders do not at 
 present receive more than one third of their annual rents. 
 
 The general character of the soil of this district is repre- 
 sented as rocky and without moisture, but the numerous 
 valleys which are intersected by rivers, or traversed by 
 Port. X 
 
322 PORTUGAL 
 
 mountain-streams, are very productive in wine, oil, silk, corn, 
 fruits, and other comestibles. In fact, the larger proportion 
 of the wine exported from Porto is grown upon the right bank 
 of the Douro within the limits of Tras os Montes ; its oil is 
 considered superior to that produced in the Minho province ; 
 and its silk is wholly consumed in the home manufactories, 
 such as they are. Its horses, too, were once esteemed equal 
 in beauty and strength to the breeds of Andalusia, and even 
 now are considered the best in the country. The bravery of 
 its inhabitants has often foiled the hostile incursions of the 
 finest troops which Spain could send into the field. Indeed, 
 in a military point of view, this province would be of no 
 importance on war breaking out between Portugal and Spain ; 
 for it would be impossible, from the nature of the country, 
 that the invader could maintain himself within it. He would 
 find the peasantry of the valleys, under any apprehension of 
 defeat, removed with their cattle into the Minho ; and his mo- 
 mentary conquest, if retained, would be attended with no 
 other result than the destruction of his army by misery and 
 want. 
 
 The principal towns of Tras os Montes are Braganza, 
 Miranda, Torre de Moncorvo, Chaves and Montalegre, and 
 Villa Real. 
 
 Braganza, situated upon the little river Fervenfa, only a 
 league and a half distant from the Galician frontier, is the 
 capital of the province, and is said to have been founded by 
 Augustus in honour of Julius Caesar, under the appellation of 
 Julio Briga. The dukedom of Braganza was conferred by 
 John I. in 1442, upon his natural son Alphonso, whose de- 
 scendants were declared the legitimate successors to the throne 
 of Portugal upon the death of the Cardinal King Henry. 
 Accordingly, John IV., founder of the Braganza dynasty, was 
 elected to the Portug-uese sovereignty in 1640, by right of his 
 grandmother, the Infanta Catherina, daughter pf the Infante 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 323 
 
 Dom Eduardo, and from him the present reigning family of 
 Portugal is descended. The town of Chaves, celebrated for 
 its warm baths in the time of the Romans, and said to have 
 been founded by the Emperor Vespasian, is included within 
 the jurisdiction of Braganza. It is situated on an elevated 
 plain above the Tamega, over which there still remains the 
 bridge of eighteen arches erected by the order of Trajan. 
 Montalegre stands on the left bank of the Cavado, in a very 
 lofty situation, and is consequently much exposed to severity 
 of weather during the continuance of winter. Miranda is a 
 Comarca town, upon the right bank of the Douro, near its 
 junction with the Fresno, and is the residence of the Bishop of 
 Braganza. The impolitic persecution and final expulsion of 
 the Jews had the effect of destroying the industry and pros- 
 perity of these two towns, neither of which have they subse- 
 quently recovered. Outeiro, situated on a mountain, might 
 be made the strongest place in the province, for it is the only 
 fort not commanded by contiguous heights. Vimioso is a town 
 too of some importance, being situated within a short distance 
 of the three last-mentioned places. Moncorvo stands in the 
 midst of a very mountainous region, and at a little distance 
 from the Sabor and the Douro. Notwithstanding its proximity 
 to the Spanish province of Salamanca, it is not a place of great 
 importance. 
 
 The province of Tras os Montes is the only one of the king- 
 dom separated entirely from the ocean. The principal chains 
 of mountains in Portugal are only the continuation of those 
 which traverse the Spanish peninsula. The Minho and the 
 Tras OS Montes, which are at a considerable elevation above 
 the level of the sea, are crossed in different directions by 
 branches from the line of mountains in Galicia. The most 
 elevated of these ranges are the Serra de Montezinho, to the 
 north of Braganza, which is an extension of the Serra de 
 Senabria in Galicia ; and the Serra de Suazo, to the north of 
 
324 PORTUGAL 
 
 Lima, whose highest point, the Gaviarra, is the only perpen- 
 dicular height on the frontiers which preserves its snow during 
 the whole of the yeaV. The Marao, between the Rio Tua 
 and the Taraega ; the Serra de Gerez, on the confines of the 
 Minho and the Tras os Montes ; and the Serra de Nogueira, 
 which separates the lofty plain of Braganza from the other 
 parts of Portugal ; rank successively in elevation after the 
 former Serras. The most elevated of these mountain ranges 
 are composed of granite, as for instance in the Minho, and the 
 northern part of the Tras os Montes, where mountains likewise 
 are found, and indeed exclusively, consisting of pure mica- 
 ceous schist. 
 
 The culture of the vine, as Link observes, is one of 
 the most important means of support to the people of Por- 
 tugal ; for not only the wine from, the banks of the Upper 
 Douro, that of Carcavellos near Lisbon, and that of St. Ubes, 
 are exported to foreign countries ; but the other wines pro- 
 duced are either consumed in the country, or shipped to the 
 colonies. The Spanish wines have naturally a great deal of 
 fire ; a quality which is only communicated to that of Portugal 
 by brandy. Portugal might undoubtedly produce as good 
 wine as Spain, but it cannot be denied that, on the whole, 
 agriculture and industry are in a higher state of advancement 
 in Spain. Some expedient was necessary to improve the 
 wine trade of Portugal, or at least partly to wrest it from the 
 hands of foreigners. 
 
 It was with this view that the Marquess of Pombal, in the 
 year 1756, under the sanction of his sovereign Joseph I., insti- 
 tuted the Junta called the Royal Company of the Culture of 
 the Vine in the Upper Douro, Real Companhia da Cultura 
 das Vinhas do Alto Douro, in which the despotic disposition 
 of its founder is fully shown. Its name reveals the purpose 
 for which it was established. The company consists of a 
 provedor or president, twelve deputies, six counsellors, a 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 325 
 
 secretary, and a tribunal nominated out of their own body, 
 with inferior officers, and dependent solely on the sovereign. 
 The members are elected triennially, the qualification for 
 becoming a deputy being the possession of ten shares in the 
 funds of the institution. Each share is of the value of 400,000 
 reis, that is, about eighty pounds in our money. The nomina- 
 tion of the members is made by the king, and for their salary 
 they receive so much per cent commission upon the company's 
 transactions. To be appointed a Deputado is the great object 
 of interest with those who are the largest owners of shares ; 
 for besides the annual amount of their commission, they can 
 take advantage of their office to increase their own private 
 business. The old regulations for the appointment of mem- 
 bers are now no longer attended to ; and it seldom happens 
 •that the deputies chosen into the company are, as it would 
 appear natural that they should be, private merchants, or 
 at least persons acquainted with the modes and rules of mer- 
 cantile proceedings. The profits and losses of the company 
 upon the transactions of the year are accounted for to each 
 individual deputy in exact proportion to the number of his 
 shares in the stock. 
 
 The wine company was never supposed to be a losing con- 
 cern, owing to the number of privileges conferred upon it by 
 the crown. These exclusive advantages, which give the com- 
 pany the power of a despotic monopoly, are as follows : — They 
 are the sole manufacturers and venders of brandy, (originally 
 a very important and profitable privilege,) upon which conse- 
 quently they can take whatever rate of profit they choose, and 
 which is said to be very high. The practical effect, however, 
 of this monopoly and high price is, as we are informed, inju- 
 rious to the interests of the company, for the present con- 
 sumption is almost entirely in the contraband article, and 
 consequently the greater part of the company's stock must 
 remain on hand, since the demand for it is diminished. Before 
 
8-26 PORTUGAL 
 
 the constitution was proclaimed, the company possessed the 
 privilege of exclusively furnishing the taverns of their district 
 with wine ; but this profitable monopoly they have lost by a 
 decree of the Cortes, and the fair trader has been let in with 
 a better article at a more moderate price. They are the sole 
 inspectors, also, of the culture of the vine in the Upper Douro 
 country. Indeed, the principal object of the original institu- 
 tion of this Company was to bring about improvements in 
 the culture of the vine in the Douro district ; to restore the 
 lost reputation of the best wine, called the Feitoria, or Factory 
 wine ; which end, if accomplished, would have benefited 
 equally the wine-grower, the merchant, and the government, 
 from the preference which the Portuguese wines would have 
 obtained in that case over the wines of other countries ; to 
 augment the quantity, too, no less than to perfect the quality 
 of its wines ; as well as to support the Douro farmers by loans 
 of money at a low rate of interest (no longer continued) against 
 the competition of those who, to the great discredit and injury 
 of the trade, brought weak wines into the market at a very 
 low price, whose colour and flavour depended upon the inter- 
 mixture of drugs, sugar, elder-berries, and other ingredients 
 more deleterious. These abuses are said to be practised to a 
 certain extent at the present day, nor are they likely to be 
 eradicated as long as the company shall be constituted as it 
 is. The merchant, it is admitted, often sees his own good 
 faith confounded with the competition of the cunning and 
 counterfeit speculator. At its first establishment, orders were 
 given by the Company to cut down every elder-tree within a 
 circuit of five leagues in the Upper Douro, to prevent the 
 wine being coloured with their berries ; but in latter days this 
 custom has revived to a considerable extent, and there is 
 scarcely a quinta now at Pezo da Regoa, in which a great 
 number of elder-trees are not cultivated for the express pur- 
 pose, as is asserted, of giving an additional beauty of colour to 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 327 
 
 the wines destined for the English market. Some persons 
 have inferred that the Company is worse than useless, and 
 they are charged with adulterating the wines themselves, and 
 exporting as much Factory wine as they receive, though it 
 loses a ninth part of its quantity in the warehouses where it is 
 kept. It is an indisputable truth, that the farmers injure the 
 quality of their wines by bad management at the present time, 
 just as much as they were used to do before the institution of 
 the Company. 
 
 Besides the privileges already enumerated, the Real Com- 
 panhia regulate, according to the quantity and quality of the 
 vintages, the proportions to be shipped to England and to other 
 countries ; — about five thousand pipes are annually exported 
 to Hamburgh, and thence may be re-shipped for the English 
 market to London ; — they set apart wines of the worst quality 
 from which their brandies are to be made, as likewise such as 
 are to be appropriated for sale to the keepers of those taverns 
 still under their controul ; they enjoy the right of pre-emption, 
 and they fix the precise price which the farmer is to receive 
 for his wine ; but this oppressive enactment is occasionally 
 avoided by a private understanding between the farmer and the 
 merchant. For instance, if the price fixed by the inspectors 
 amount to 40,000 reis per pipe, the contract between the 
 grower and the purchaser will appear in writing as for that 
 extent of cost only, and whatever is agreed upon beyond that 
 sum, as the private price of the pipe, is paid down in metal by 
 the merchant without any further security. 
 
 These conditional bargains, however, are frequently frus- 
 trated by the interposition of the Company, who enjoy the 
 privilege of obtaining any wines they please at the price named 
 by themselves for the year; and no contracts are valid, but 
 those made at Regoa during the three days fixed for the wine 
 fair in the spring. It often happens that a merchant makes 
 his selection of some particular wines, and offers prices for 
 
328 PORTUGAL 
 
 them extremely favourable to the farmers, but to no purpose ; 
 for the Deputados of the Company intervene, and give their 
 Escrito (certificate) to these wines at the regulated price, 
 and take possession of them themselves, to the great injury 
 of the farmer, who is often driven almost to despair by 
 such acts of injustice, and likewise much to the disappoint- 
 ment of the merchant, who in that case has to look to other 
 quarters for wines calculated to suit the tastes of his corres- 
 pondents. Thus the situation of the wine-grower in Portugal 
 would appear as bad as that of the oppressed Fellah in the 
 iron furnace of Egypt. 
 
 A proof of the low degree of estimation in which this tyran- 
 nical Company is held by respectable and enlightened mer- 
 chants, has been recently given in the repeated refusal of a 
 distinguished gentleman, who stands deservedly high in the 
 mercantile world as a person of probity and talent, to act as 
 Provedor (President), though urged to compliance by repre- 
 sentations from a high quarter, and offered gratuitously the 
 number of shares in the stock which would qualify him for 
 undertaking the office. 
 
 " It may be asked," says Mr. Fleetwood Williams, " to 
 what cause must the extraordinary rise in the price of wines 
 in Porto be attributed ? The monopoly and mischievous in- 
 terference of the Royal Company is the real and true cause. 
 Not content with the middle station in which they were des- 
 tined to move, namely, as judges between the farmer and 
 merchant, they departed from their original professions, and 
 have become by degrees the greatest exporters of wine to 
 England, assuming to themselves powers, and exercising them 
 on every occasion, injurious to the growers and individual ex- 
 porters of wine ; — the Company fix the quantity of wine that 
 shall be qualified or permitted for export to England each year, 
 and they seem to take especial care that the quantity so qualified 
 shall not exceed the demand. They also fix the price, class 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 329 
 
 the wines, and exclude any they choose, which introduces a 
 system of bribery and fraud, and prevents any effectual oppo- 
 sition to the measures which they thus arbitrarily adopt, 
 however oppressive either to merchants or wine-grower. The 
 energies of the latter are paralysed ; first, because, however 
 the produce of his vineyards might be increased by his own 
 industry, it depends entirely on the Company what proportion 
 of wines will, in the first instance, be qualified for export to 
 England, and secondly, what price they will choose to give him. 
 He has no open market ; he cannot sell, in the first instance, 
 to whom he pleases, nor can he fix his own price upon his own 
 commodity ; and it continually happens that the Company take 
 his wines at one third less than their real value." 
 
 It is proper to observe here, that the arguments of Mr. Wil- 
 liams and Mr. Warre are combated in a pamphlet entitled 
 " the Wine Question considered," written by a Portuguese, in 
 the year 1824, who states, " that all the acts which Mr. Wil- 
 liams attributes, in respect of the classification of the wines, to 
 the Company, are the exclusive work of government ; and lie 
 argues that, when a corporation acts by virtue of a law, the 
 benefit or injury proceeding therefrom is attributable to the 
 law, and not to the corporation ; and that if the measure of the 
 government is erroneous, the nation itself alone, and no one 
 eke, can demand of them an account." 
 
 " The way in which wines are classed," continues Mr. Wil- 
 liams, " shows at once the injustice of the system. Suppose a 
 farmer has one hundred pipes of wine, he is not at all aware 
 what quantity of it will be qualified or establisjied, " feitoried," 
 that is, what proportion will be allowed to be exported to 
 England, until the night preceding the wine fair, or Tempo da 
 Feira. That night a list is delivered to him, with the classifi- 
 cation of his wines into first, second, and third qualities. 
 Whatever part is not qualified for export to England, is taken 
 at a still very reduced price, generally by the Company, for 
 
330 PORTUGAL 
 
 home use, or export to any country except England. It by 
 no means follows that the wines so disqualified are of inferior 
 quality, the object being to prevent too abundant a supply 
 being sent to the English market." The separated, or refutado 
 wines are, indeed, often fully equal to the best Factory wines, 
 and are sold as such subsequently to their rejection, by the 
 Company. 
 
 " The time of the fair," states the Portuguese writer above 
 alluded to, " is designated by law, and made known by a pro- 
 clamation, edital, uniformly with the anticipation of some days, 
 and never with the notice only of the preceding evening. The 
 delivery of the certificate, bilhete, containing the classification 
 of the grower's wines, is also made previous to the night im- 
 mediately preceding the fair." 
 
 The evident result, however, of these numerous anti-com- 
 mercial regulations and restrictions, imposed upon the wine 
 trade by the exclusive privileges of the Company, is to enhance 
 the price of wine in Portugal, to confine the transactions of 
 the Porto merchants, and to prejudice the interests of the con- 
 sumers. The Company is, therefore, as it proceeds at present, 
 a counteracting and a mischievous power, and certainly ought, 
 not perhaps to be altogether abolished, for it has produced 
 some good, but at least to undergo very considerable modifi- 
 cations. The wine-farmers are nearly ruined by its vexatious 
 monopoly, and urgent representations have been lately made 
 to the Cortes in behalf of their numerous and well-founded 
 complaints. 
 
 Dr. Henderson, in his valuable work on ancient and modern 
 wines, has justly remarked that, had the wine trade in Por- 
 tugal remained free from the vexatious fetters imposed upon it 
 by the Company of the Alto Douro, that country might have 
 supplied England with wines little inferior to some of the best 
 growths of the Bordelais or the Rhone. Our own experience 
 fully confirms the truth of this assertion. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 331 
 
 The price paid in Portugal in 1820 for a pipe of Port of 
 higher quality was 60/., and in 1821, 40/. ; whereas were 
 dear prices left to correct themselves by creating extraor- 
 dinary exertions to increase the quantity of produce from the 
 vineyards, the shipping price of Port wines might vibrate 
 between 24/. and 28/. the pipe, according as the vintages 
 might be good or bad, abundant or otherwise. An abundant 
 vintage, it is remarked, proves generally a good one in 
 quality. 
 
 We should observe that it has been made a question, 
 whether a redaiction of duties on Port wines in England would 
 have the effect of causing a reduction in the amount of their 
 first cost in Portugal ; and Mr. Williams arg-ues that a reduc- 
 tion of price in Portugal would be of more importance to the 
 English consumer than a reduction of duty in England. " If," 
 says he, " a reduction of duty takes place in England, an in- 
 creased demand will be anticipated, and the certain conse- 
 quence will be an increase of price abroad ; indeed, as if to 
 confirm my former arguments, the Royal Wine Company have 
 determined to reduce the quantity of Port wine allowed to be 
 exported to England to 10,000 pipes, thereby, no doubt, hoping 
 to make John Bull pay as much for 10,000 pipes as he did for 
 16,000 pipes, which was the quantity qualified for export to 
 England last year, (1825,) that having previously been reduced 
 from 20,000. Were the duty taken off", it would in all proba- 
 bility pass immediately over the consumer to the foreign holder 
 of wine, thereby giving no just cause for increased consumption 
 to reimburse the revenue." The Portuguese states, that in 
 fixing the quantity of wine intended for shipment, the govern- 
 ment compares the produce with the probable consumption 
 and the " stock on hand" in the same place where the quantity 
 proposed is to be consumed. 
 
 Of the price, however, paid in Portugal, how much, or rather 
 how little is the amount which goes into the pocket of the 
 
332 PORTUGAL 
 
 wine-grower ? In the upper country the carriage of a pipe of 
 wine, drawn by four bullocks to the neighbouring depot, often 
 costs the farmer two moidores, and he obtains for it, perhaps 
 by instalments of three, six, and nine months, from ten to 
 twelve, and sometimes perhaps twenty moidores. Supposing 
 that a farmer possesses two vineyards in different communes, 
 which may be close to each other, producing wines of equal 
 quality, he is not allowed to place their produce in the same 
 vault, and still less to mix them together. In addition to 
 other difficulties, he has to contend also with the high prices 
 of all the necessary articles of life, which are, indeed, excessive 
 in the upper parts of the district. The duty paid upon the 
 transport of a pipe of Port from Regoa to Porto amounts to 
 one moidore and a half. The whole amount of duty paid on 
 a pipe of wine from his own door to its shipment, is about 
 20,000 reis, or four pounds British, which is a very severe and 
 impolitic impost on the principal production of the country. 
 One half of this duty may reach the erario, or exchequer, but 
 the other is eaten up by private appropriations to the convents 
 and needy fidalgos. 
 
 In the publication of Mr. Warre, it is argued that the in- 
 crease of duty in England upon the importation of Port wines 
 tends to a decrease of her revenue from that source, and that a 
 diminution of impost would be attended with precisely the 
 opposite effect. It is, however, extremely probable that the 
 managers of the wine sales on the Douro would take advantage 
 of any great reduction of duty on Porto wines by our govern- 
 ment, to put an additional price upon the article, in which 
 case the British consumer would be paying the Portuguese 
 the tax which had been remitted to him in his own country. 
 Mr. Warre further asserts " that the export of wines is of 
 such vital moment to Spain and Portugal, forming the chief 
 article of their export commerce, that were an intimation made 
 to them that we would retaliate if their prohibitions were 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 333 
 
 continued, it would have its effects. There are eighteen pa- 
 rishes in the immediate vicinity of the Douro district, produc- 
 ing wines not only of equal, but of superior quality, as is 
 proved in a late survey of the wine country. Exclusively of 
 these, the provinces of Beira and Tras os Montes abound in 
 an infinite variety of wines, whose flavour and quality would 
 compete," as is well known to our officers, " with those of any 
 other country ; particularly those on the margins of the river 
 Tu^ and in the neighbourhood of Braganza, although all these 
 wines are strictly prohibited from being exported to Great 
 Britain." The increasing taste for French wines in England 
 may perhaps correct this evil without any legislative enact- 
 ment, and other countries may eventually be found to supply 
 us with sound and palatable wines. " Let not the Portu- 
 guese," says the writer of their own country, " think that 
 Port wine is an article of necessity in England, or that in the 
 world there are no other wines. Port wine in England is 
 purely an object of luxury, and as such, subject to all the 
 contingencies of similar articles." 
 
 The Portuguese writer declares, that there is no law in 
 existence which forbids the exportation of the whole of the 
 various wines of the provinces through any other ports, such 
 as Aveiro, Viana, and Figueira. The actual prohibition is, to 
 export them by the way of Porto, in order that they may not 
 come into the British market and be sold as Port wines duly 
 inspected, when in reality they have undergone no controul 
 whatever. 
 
 The number of varieties of the vine is as great in Portugal, 
 Mr. Link informs us, as in other countries. Their names are 
 of Portuguese origin ; but these names are various for the same 
 variety in different parts of the country, while the same name 
 is used in various places for different varieties. At Pezo the 
 best red wine is produced from a small red late grape, growing 
 on a vine, whose leaves are deeply indented and very rough. 
 
334 PORTUGAL 
 
 A great number of varieties are often mingled together ; a 
 method which certainly possesses some advantages, but also 
 great disadvantages. The distance at which the vines are 
 planted is very various. Here, as everywhere else, hills and 
 mountains are preferred for the culture of the vine, and they 
 are so steep, that the earth is supported by little walls, so as to 
 convert the sides of the hills into terraces. The vine is culti- 
 vated also on plains, where, if the soil is sandy, it succeeds 
 very well. Shady vallies and plains, or stiffer soil, produce 
 but moderate wine. The vine is commonly short, growing up 
 poles, those in the Minho excepted, where they are planted 
 beside trees, round the branches of which they twine. It is 
 extremely common, at the first establishment of a vineyard, to 
 sow the land the first year with corn. In the Tras os Montes 
 corn is sown between the vines, and on the south bank of the 
 Tagus at Lisbon, vegetables are grown in the vineyards. 
 
 The culture of the vine in the Upper Douro is perfectly 
 simple. It is pruned about December, when nothing is left 
 of it but a very small twig on a thick stump. As soon as 
 vegetation has commenced in the spring, the earth is loosened 
 about the plant, or vacello, and this process is frequently re- 
 peated till it puts forth blossoms. In some places it is found 
 requisite, with the view to an increased produce, to act upon the 
 richness of the soil, by intermingling plants which are more 
 abundant in alkali ; but this is contrary to the regulations of 
 the Company; and indeed, although a larger quantity of grapes 
 is produced by the system, they acquire a taste peculiar to 
 the herb, which has been sown for the purpose of serving as 
 manure to the vineyard. Skill and attention are required on 
 the part of the cultivator after the plant has blossomed, and 
 even when the grapes are approaching a state of ripeness. 
 Either too much rain, or too violent heat, may spoil the grape 
 under the most flattering appearances, A good vintage prin- 
 cipally depends on due proportions of heat and moisture, par- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 335 
 
 ticularly in the spring at the cleansing of the flower, as at an 
 after period, when the grapes are more advanced. Cold fogs 
 in the spring often destroy a great part of the growth ; and 
 again, too much sun frequently dries up the coat of the grape, 
 which causes the wine to Be deficient in colour. Sometimes 
 when the grape does not prove sufficiently succulent for want 
 of rain, previously to the gathering, the farmers have recourse 
 to water, which they throw into the lagar, or wine-press, for 
 the mass would not ferment without it. The quality of the 
 wines very much depends upon the care taken to perfect the 
 process of fermentation. The vintage in the Upper Douro 
 commences when the grapes begin to shrivel. In these parts 
 it is very difficult and expensive to convey the grapes to the 
 press, the whole district consisting of steep hills and narrow 
 vallies. This process is performed by treading, and a great 
 number of men, assisted by Gallegos, are thus employed at 
 vintage-time. 
 
 After the wine has been pressed from the grapes, it is 
 suffered to stand in very large butts until the wine fair, 
 which takes place annually, according to the determination of 
 the Company, either in February or March. Immediately 
 after the fair, the wine is brought down the Douro to Villa 
 Nova, and is there defecated or racked off into clean casks, 
 which the Porto wine-merchants call giving it clean shirts ; 
 and an almude of brandy, being in the proportion of about one 
 to twenty-one parts of must, is added to each cask. An 
 additional quantity is mixed with it from time to time, until 
 about two almudes of brandy have been thrown into the 
 pipe, which is, with few exceptions, all the brandy that it takes 
 to England. But it has been remarked that it is too much 
 the custom at Porto to cleanse the wine of its thicker particles, 
 the effect of which is not simply to refine it, but to weaken, if 
 not destroy, those naturally inherent properties upon which 
 
336 PORTUGAL 
 
 both the body and the flavour of the wine would otherwise 
 depend. It frequently happens that a well-flavoured wine is 
 deficient in colour ; and to bring this up, the brighter wine of 
 an inferior vintage is mixed with it, and occasionally dried 
 elder-berries. It is fair to presume, therefore, that the dis- 
 tinction of wine into vintages is not so purely true, and so 
 entirely a matter of fact, as Englishmen generally suppose it 
 to be. 
 
 The Portuguese writer expresses his regret that the British 
 merchants residing in Porto do not seem to be aware that in 
 one single pipe, and much more in a single vat, different 
 qualities of wine are to be found at the top, in the middle, 
 and at the bottom. 
 
 There are no subterranean wine cellars at Villa Nova, and so 
 strong is the prejudice against them among the Portuguese 
 merchants, that no inducement can persuade them to make ex- 
 cavations for the purpose, though they might be readily effected. 
 Still the nature and inclinations of the new wine require to be 
 made quite a matter of study ; for if left unattended to in its 
 infancy, it is liable to become sour, and when once in that 
 state, cannot be brought round but with considerable trouble 
 and expense. The system of keeping the wines at Villa Nova 
 in warehouses, in which, from the nature and construction of 
 the buildings, they are exposed to all the alternations of 
 atmosphere in an uncertain climate, the varying degrees of 
 heat and cold in the same day being often extraordinary, tends 
 to increase the difficulties of management ; besides which, it 
 is said, that too frequently the wines are exported to foreign 
 markets before they have attained, under the influence of their 
 own climate, a sufficient degree of maturity. 
 
 The wines which are produced in the vineyards cultivated 
 in the neighbourhood of Coimbra, are represented to have a 
 harsh quality, and to be disagreeable to the taste ; they are. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 337 
 
 therefore, seldom or never exported. Those grown in the 
 lower plains, contiguous to Figueira, have an earthy taste, and 
 in this particular resemble the character of the Cape Madeira, 
 which, it is well known, owing to the inferior or badly adapted, 
 nature of the soil in which the vines are cultivated, and 
 the prejudices and bad management of the Dutch farmers, 
 have long since lost all their reputation, if ever they merited 
 any. 
 
 We find Murphy praising the wine of Barra-a-Barra, w^hich is 
 situated in the vicinity of Lavadrio, as being one of the richest 
 quality produced in Portugal, together with the fine growths 
 of Oeiras and Carcavellos. The growths of Alenquer, Torres 
 Vedras, Lamego, and Mo^ao, which last in particular possesses 
 a high celebrity, are to be procured in great abundance, and 
 on the credit of Dr. Henderson's experience, may be consi- 
 dered to be of a quality at least equal, even if not superior, to 
 those of the Douro. All the lighter red wines of Portugal, to 
 a certain degree, resemble the inferior growths of the vine- 
 yards in the neighbourhood of Bordeaux, but they certainly 
 possess more nutritious properties, and would therefore be 
 preferred by the many, dould they be brought into competi- 
 tion with the French wines in the tnarkets of England. 
 , The principal kinds of white wines which are imported into 
 England f/cm Portugal, are the dry wine of Termo, not far 
 from the mouth of the Douro j that of Bucellas, a place 
 situated a few miles above Lisbon ; and the luscious musca- 
 dine of Setuval or St. Ubes, on the southern side of the Tagus, 
 whose vineyards have ever been renowned for the rich quality 
 and exquisite flavour of their productions. 
 
 It would appear that, in the management of wines generally, 
 the great point to be always carefully attended to, is the process 
 of fermentation, which is often too much retarded or accele- 
 rated by unskilful treatment, and more particularly in Por- 
 Port. Y 
 
338 
 
 PORTUGAL 
 
 tugal, where it is frequently suspended by the injudicious 
 admixture of brandy before the must is in a proper state to 
 receive it, which renders the wine afterwards hable to fret, and 
 makes it uncertain in its character. 
 
 PEASANT PLAYING ON A GUITAR. 
 
 s- -^^ ,^^iii^- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 339 
 
 LETTER XIII. 
 
 Smooth to the shelving bank a copious flood 
 Rolls fair and placid ; where collected all. 
 In one impetuous torrent, down the steep 
 It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round. 
 At £rst, an azure sheet, it rushes broad ; 
 Then whitening by degrees, as prone it falls. 
 And from the loud resounding rocks below 
 Dashed in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft 
 A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower. 
 Nor can the tortured wave here find repose : 
 But, raging still amid the shaggy rocks, 
 'Now flashes o'er the scattered fragments, now 
 Aslant the hollow channel rapid darts; 
 And falling fast from gradual slope to slope. 
 With wild infracted course and lessened roar. 
 It gains a safer bed, and steals at last 
 Along the mazes of the quiet vale. 
 
 Thomson's Summer. 
 
 Porto, 1827. 
 
 After experiencing every possible attention from our wor- 
 thy host at Pezo da Regoa, we prepared to accomplish a 
 long-projected tour down the Douro, and accordingly engaged 
 a boat for the purpose at the charge of five moidores, which 
 was less than the sum usually demanded. Our object was to 
 
340 PORTUGAL 
 
 reach Porto in one day, and as we had to pass over numerous 
 shallows, and to contend with an unfavourable wind, we em- 
 barked at the early hour of four in the morning, before the 
 first beams of the sun had struck upon the summits of the 
 vine-clad hills between which the river forces its winding 
 course. When on board, we discovered that our liberal friend, 
 not limiting his hospitality to a warm reception of the travel- 
 lers under his own roof, had resolved that they should carry 
 away with them also abundant proofs of his kindness in a 
 large condessa, amply stored with fruits, sweetmeats, wine, 
 and a variety of provisions, svifficient for two or three days' ■ 
 consumption. 
 
 An awning of coarse sail-cloth, which would be used as a 
 sail on the return of the boat up the river, was spread over the 
 centre part, under the protection of which we were accom- 
 modated apart from the boatmen with a table and seats, 
 which admitted of our writing, reading, or sleeping, just 
 as the inclination prompted. The sensation of gliding down 
 a rapid current, amidst sublime and beautiful scenery, without 
 suffering from oppressive heat, as we had hitherto done, 
 proved a delightful change. The dust of the roads, the fever- 
 exciting motion of the mules, the jolts of the liteira over rocky 
 descents from Serras, and all the other many inconveniences 
 of Portuguese travelling, were forgotten at once in our present 
 enjoyment of the varying landscape without having to undergo 
 any personal exertion. Our little bark had a complement of 
 five men, one of whom, apparently the patrone, took charge of 
 the helm. The tiller is necessarily very long, and the blade 
 of the rudder, formed at its extremity into a shape resembling 
 the sharp-edged oar of a sculler, is extended to a considerable 
 length, being nothing better however than a large log of wood 
 roughly hewn. Its length and form however enable the 
 steersman to guide his boat securely between rocks, that often 
 approach each other so closely as almost to block up the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 341 
 
 navigation of the river, and to turn it round in an instant, as 
 though it moved on a pivot, whenever the man, v/ho is sta- 
 tioned in difficult parts of the channel at the head of the boat, 
 as w^ater-pioneer, with a long pole to keep it steady in its 
 course, may give notice of approaching a sunken rock. One 
 man takes an oar by the steerer, and two are employed in the 
 forepart with oars, which they work standing up, and they 
 are occasionally assisted by the fifth man, whose duty it is, as 
 just described, to aid in giving a safe direction to the course of 
 the vessel ; and they are, from time to time, relieved by the 
 two men who have been employed at the stern. 
 
 In our progress down the river we occasionally overtook 
 large wine-boats descending from Regoa to Porto, carrying 
 from twenty to thirty pipes each, and having half their cargo 
 loosely lashed on either side, as you will have perceived in the 
 sketch already sent to you, the depth of the water not being 
 everywhere sufficient at this season to float a bark heavily 
 laden in the usual way. Sometimes we passed large rafts, 
 composed of pine logs bound firmly together by birchen twigs, 
 like those met with on the Rhine and the Danube, bearing a 
 few pipes of wine, and managed by four or five men. The 
 pipes are taken out of the boats, as also from off the rafts, 
 when they are about to pass over a shallow, or rocky bottom, 
 and are rolled separately by the boatmen through the water, 
 aided by the force of the current, and often for a very consi- 
 derable distance, in fact until the water becomes again suffi- 
 ciently deep to bear up their weight. One of the men almost 
 invariably stands forward upon the prow of these water- 
 vehicles, holding a stout long pole, shod with iron, for the 
 purpose of keeping his course in safety off a projecting rock, 
 against which the rapids of the river might impel them, were 
 it not for the incessant vigilance of himself and the helmsman ; 
 but notwithstanding all the activity, experience, and precau- 
 tion of the boatmen, such, accidents frequently occur, and 
 
342 PORTUGAL 
 
 more particularly when the volume of water in the Douro has 
 been increased by the hibernal or vernal rains. Many boats, 
 both longer and broader than our own, passed us on their 
 return up the river to Regoa, laden with empty pipes, pur- 
 chased for the vintage in the north of Europe, and various 
 articles of consumption for the wine-country people. Their 
 large white sails being filled by a favouring breeze, enabled 
 them to make head well against the current, and almost to 
 equal our progress in speed. These boats have generally a 
 high stage erected above the level of the steerage, whence the 
 helmsman is enabled to command a clear view over the mer- 
 chandize to the prow. You will observe this in the sketch to 
 which we have alluded above. They are generally drawn up 
 the rapidSgby oxen, which are always in readiness for the pur- 
 pose ; but it frequently requires as many as eight days to force 
 a vessel up from Porto against the numerous obstacles which 
 present themselves, to the place of its destination. 
 
 Within the distance of a league from the point of our em- 
 barkation at Regoa, we passed under the vine-clad hill of 
 Cambraes, whose towering height is seen from the elevated 
 grounds above Pezo, bounding the line of the horizon to the 
 south. The farm-houses and cottages of the vine-dressers, 
 prettily scattered here and there amid the green vineyards, 
 and dazzling the sight with their snow-white walls, resemble 
 at a distance the residences of the peasantry in Wales, placed 
 on the gentle declivities of their hills ; and, in some respects, 
 the chalets of the Swiss herdsmen in their construction, the 
 ground tier being appropriated to the reception of cattle, or for 
 the stowage of their wine vats, while the lodging-rooms on the 
 upper floor are approached by a wooden staircase attached to 
 the outside of the building, under a projecting roof. A covered 
 gallery also runs round three sides of it, as a defence for its 
 inhabitants against the heat and variations in the state of the 
 atmosphere. Nearly opposite to Cambraes, and on the right 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 343 
 
 bank of the Douro, are some warm mineral springs, for the use 
 of which the bathers pay about seventy reis each time of using 
 the bath, to Senhor Joachim Fernandez, who derives from this 
 source a considerable revenue. Looking back in the direction 
 of Pezo, we caught a transient view of the numerous detached 
 and conical hills, which we had seen more distinctly from the 
 quinta of our host, marking the direction and the limits of the 
 wine country. 
 
 We observed in some instances, as we proceeded, the vines 
 cultivated on terraces, raised with considerable labour, and 
 maintained too with difficulty and expense upon the sides 
 of the almost precipitous banks overhanging the river. In 
 other cases the vines were trained over trellis-work, supported 
 by granite columns about nine feet in height; or planted 
 separately, in the open spaces, as in Burgundy, but invariably 
 taller, and thei-efore so much the more raised above the 
 character of mere currant-bushes. After all, however, the 
 most graceful form by far assumed by the vine, is when it 
 unites with the branches of the oak, the chestnut, the myrtle, 
 or the cork tree, displaying itself in luxuriant festoons, and 
 appearing to struggle with its ally for distinction. Inter- 
 spersed among the vines are often seen orange, lemon, almond, 
 peach, cherry, olive, plum, mulberry, fig, and chestnut trees, 
 which add greatly to the picturesque appearance of the vine- 
 yard ; but they are not so frequently found in those vineyards 
 where the best wines are produced. 
 
 No act of aggression can possibly give the owner of a vine- 
 yard so much offence, as taking the liberty to pluck his grapes 
 without permission. Throughout the whole of the wine- 
 country, the precaution is adopted of fencing in the vineyards 
 on those sides lying contiguous to the roads, with a light 
 frame-work composed of the arundo donax, covered with 
 furze, to secure the grapes from the grasp of the passing 
 traveller. " If we owe you money," said a farmer recently 
 
344 . PORTUGAL 
 
 to a party, supposed to belong to the Company, who were 
 observed helping themselves to what came within their reach, 
 " come and be paid ; but don't rob me of my property." In 
 most of the detached vineyards there is a small hut made of 
 reeds, which is generally placed on an elevated spot command- 
 ing the whole extent of the vineyard, whence an intruder may 
 be quite sure that he will be fired upon without any previous 
 notice, or the tedious process of a discussion by word of mouth. 
 In many instances we have seen these watchmen, like the 
 shepherds and labouring peasantry in the northern parts of 
 the provinces, protected against the rain and changes of the 
 atmosphere by a dress or outward covering composed of straw, 
 which is closely twisted together, and is sufficiently large 
 to conceal the whole person. In this sort of peripatetic 
 thatch, the guardian of the vineyard defies the effects of the 
 weather, and during the important part of the season remains 
 nearly day and night in the open air, with his musket, pre- 
 pared to resist any invasion of his property. 
 
 Owing to the unfair and tyrannical system adopted by the 
 Company in the selection and purchase of wines, the wine- 
 grower is often seen at the fair of Pezo da Regoa running 
 about hat in hand, and with earnest entreaties imploring the 
 members of the Factory and the English merchants, or their 
 agents, to buy his wines, who amidst his own hills assumes all 
 the consequence of a fidalgo, and doffs his hat to no person. 
 Many of these farmers are too poor to have any means them- 
 selves to spare for the purchase of pipes, and therefore are 
 obliged to keep two or three vats, in which the year's produce 
 is placed, according to its quality arising from variations in 
 that of the soil. Sometimes they are under the necessity of 
 taking their grapes to the wine-press of another farmer, having 
 none of their own, and to leave their wines in his charge, 
 especially in cases where the grower's vineyard is out of the 
 limits of the Wine Company's district, and he may feel anxious 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 843 
 
 to have them selected for exportation. The produce of his 
 vineyard is then reckoned with that of the district wine, and 
 it can be accordingly classed together with it, as Vinho de 
 Feitoria, or Vinho de Ramo. In many cases the purchaser 
 of wines is obliged to furnish his own pipes for their convey- 
 ance down the Douro to Porto ; but where the wine-grower is 
 also a merchant, he has generally a sufficiency of capital to 
 procure himself the number of pipes which he may require. 
 
 At Moledo, on the left bank of the Douro, we passed a dis- 
 tillery of brandy belonging to the Company, situated close to 
 the edge of the water, and exposed, without any covering 
 whatever, to the open air. The view hence down the river of 
 • the rocky scenery, which seems to close up its channel and 
 suddenly arrest its course, is singularly beautiful. At Ber- 
 naldo, two short leagues from Regoa, our boat was hauled in 
 to the shore on the right bank, in order to undergo examina- 
 tion by the Company's guard stationed there, who possess the 
 chartered right of search over all vessels passing, to prevent 
 the evasion of duties chargeable upon the transit of wines and 
 brandies. A crowd of barks were waiting the inspection of 
 the Company's officers ; but after a few woWs we were per- 
 mitted to continue our course, without being subjected to the 
 inconvenience and unnecessary delay attending a search. 
 
 We now began to meet with the falls, where the copious 
 flood 
 
 — — — — collected all 
 In one impetuous torrent, down the steep 
 Thundering shoots, and shakes the country round. 
 
 They must indeed be dangerous when the river is swollen, 
 for even in its present state we shot down these roaring rapids 
 with the celerity of lightning, occasionally enjoying the agree- 
 able sensation of bumping against some sunken rock, and only 
 escaping collision with the shore by the activity and quick- 
 Mghtedness of the man at the prow, who managed his long 
 
346 PORTUGAL 
 
 pole with most laudable dexterity. Those who have had te- 
 merity sufficient to dare the descent at Paris of the Montagnes 
 Russes, may conceive the delight with which nervous travel- 
 lers commit their precious persons to these fearful cataracts. 
 The barks employed on the Douro are flat-bottomed, and 
 necessarily so, that they may be enabled to pass over the 
 shallows and shoot the falls with safety. The stunning noise 
 of the headlong current, where 
 
 whitening by degrees, as prone it falls, 
 
 And from the loud resounding rocks below 
 Dashed in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft 
 A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower ; 
 
 the quick and vehement vociferations of the boatmen ; the 
 rapidity of the stream increasing as the scene of difficulty is 
 approached ; — all concur in exciting the lively apprehensions 
 of the timid and inexperienced traveller, and occasion an 
 involuntary shudder even after the dangers have been safely 
 passed. Yet when the rebel general Joze Cardozo had led a 
 detachment of Silveira's forces to the village of Santo Thyrso, 
 within six leagues of Porto, and was preparing to march upon 
 the town and devote it to plunder, the brave Conde da Taipa, 
 who was fortunately then at Regoa, seeing that there was not 
 a moment to be lost, immediately engaged a party of boatmen 
 who were well acquainted with the dangers of the navigation, 
 to carry with him three hundred of his troops during the night 
 to Porto. Early the following morning, this small band of 
 constitutionalists arrived safely off the town, and in time to 
 save it from the pillage and destruction threatened by the 
 needy wretches of whom, the absolutist forces were composed. 
 Upon finding that the Count, whose talents and intrepidity 
 were universally acknowledged, had by this sudden and un- 
 expected movement formed a junction with the garrison of 
 Porto, who were well disposed under the command of its 
 heroic governor, Cardozo instantly sounded a retreat, and was 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 347 
 
 followed in his flight by the murderous rabble, who had been 
 induced to join his standard under the expectation of plunder ; 
 
 — — — — Rapine, that led 
 Millions of raging robbers in his train : 
 Unlistening, barbarous force, to whom the sword 
 Is reason, honour, law : the foe of arts 
 By monsters followed, hideous to behold. 
 
 Thomson. 
 
 The woods which overhang the rocky banks of the river 
 abound with turtle-doves and nightingales. Of the former we 
 saw immense quantities. The sylvan scenery of the Douro 
 principally consists of pine, oak, chestnut, and olive trees, in- 
 termixed with which are occasionally seen cork-trees, and a 
 profusion of myrtles adorning the wilds with clusters of white 
 blossoms. A little below Bernaldo, at Bercanze, the factory 
 district ceases, as indeed the soil calculated to produce a wine 
 of superior quality. In many places the rocks assume the 
 most grotesque and varied appearance, in singular forms and 
 odd shapes ; in fact, they are perforated and worked into this 
 diversity of figures by the constant action of the water. The 
 rock scenery of the Douro is indeed quite characteristic. 
 There is a wildness about it almost terrific. The rude masses 
 appear to have been thrown into their present state of confu- 
 sion by some awful convulsion of nature ; and in some cases 
 their dark appearance would induce the supposition that they 
 had been but recently cast up from the blazing crater of a 
 neighbouring volcano. From its source, indeed, at the foot of 
 Mount Olbion, in the Spanish province of Soria, and from its 
 entrance into Portugal by Miranda, the easternmost town of 
 the province of Tras os Montes, its whole course as far as 
 Carvoeiro, runs through a narrow and rocky bed between 
 mountains of greater or less elevation, which often approach 
 each other so closely as to seem to shut up the further passage 
 of the river. 
 
348 PORTUGAL 
 
 As we continued our course, we saw affixed under the ledge 
 of an abrupt rock a little painted image of Nossa Senhora de 
 Boa Viagem, marking the extreme height to which the river 
 rises occasionally in winter, when the navigation is altogether 
 suspended. Below Barceiros there are large masses of granite 
 rock scattered wildly along either shore, and which project so 
 far into the channel as to leave but a very narrow passage for 
 vessels between them. It is in such places as these that the 
 most dangerous falls occur. In some parts the high banks of 
 the river consist of bold perpendicular rocks, entirely destitute 
 of vegetation, while upon the opposite side are seen luxuriant 
 woods of pine and oaks clothing the steep ascents, and often 
 skirting down to the water's edge. They are the haunts of 
 wolves and wild boars, which are found here in great numbers. 
 
 The Cima Musquetella on the left bank of the river, en- 
 tirely covered by fine and luxuriant woods, and having its lofty 
 summits broken and pointed, forms a truly magnificent feature 
 in the scenery of the Douro, which here may justly claim to 
 vie with that of the Rhine or Rhone in wildness, sublimity, 
 and beauty, though it wants the interest of those old feudal 
 castles which form so great an ornament on the banks of the 
 former river. We were detained above the rapids of Caneida for 
 at least half an hour, owing to the Company's workmen being 
 at the time engaged in blowing up some rocks in the middle of 
 the stream, which impeded the navigation. It is evident that 
 the Company, besides expending large sums on the improve- 
 ment of the roads leading to the wine district, are sparing no 
 efforts in rendering the navigation of the Douro more secure, 
 and in removing all the different obstructions which at present 
 render the passage both up and down the river often tedious 
 and unsafe. In fact, a duty is levied, but of no large amount, 
 on each pipe of wine, for the express purpose of providing for 
 these expenses. By their exertions the river has been ren- 
 dered navigable in summer for flat-bottomed boats as far as 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 349 
 
 Torre de Moncorvo, in the Tras os Montes. The difficulties, 
 however, opposed to the free passage of boats near San Joao 
 de Pesqueira, in the Province of Beira, are still, we under- 
 stand, very considerable. During the two last years the 
 Company has been unusually energetic in clearing the bed of 
 the river of the enormous masses of granite which occasionally 
 fall into it from the heights above, and are frequently of such 
 an immense size as almost entirely to block up the channel. 
 The rapid of Caneida is even in the season of summer re- 
 garded as dangerous, and in winter it must of course be much 
 more so. In descending this rapid, such was the violent rush 
 of water over a length of rocky bed, that a curling wave, for it 
 really deserved the name, broke over into the boat to our 
 great inconvenience ; and when passing down another rapid, 
 the head of our bark struck against the point of a sunken 
 rock, when the water instantly rushed through an aperture 
 made by the concussion, and half filled the boat ; indeed, we 
 had considerable difficulty in stopping the leak with pieces of 
 old sail, and bits of tow, so as to be able to proceed on our 
 course without delay ; and during the remainder of the voyage 
 we were obliged to be incessantly baling out the water, as it 
 was impossible to stop the leak effectually. No less than 
 thirty boats were lost last year between Porto and Regoa. 
 During the winter season our little vessel could not have lived 
 in the river. 
 
 Before our arrival at the fall of the Ponte do Cadao, three 
 or four of our party were obliged to land, for the bark was too 
 light to bear us all down this fearful rapid in safety. Scram- 
 bling over some slippery rocks, we gained a point imme- 
 diately overhanging the fall in time to witness its descent. 
 The rapidity with which it shot beneath us to the lower level 
 of the river was truly terrific, and occasioned the most lively 
 apprehensions for its safety ; but the cool intrepidity of the 
 boatmen, aided by their experience and good management. 
 
350 PORTUGAL 
 
 soon convinced us that our fears were without cause. We 
 then came into a more gentle current, which 
 
 now 
 
 Aslant the hollow channel rapid darts ; 
 And falling fast from gradual slope to slope. 
 With wild infracted course, and lessened roar, 
 It gains a safer bed, and steals at last 
 Along the mazes of the quiet vale. 
 
 The scenery also now assumed a softer character ; the banks 
 on either side becoming less elevated, presented more frequent 
 habitations ; and upon the shore we observed numerous small 
 huts, made of green boughs, and almost standing in the water, 
 for bathers to retire into, a decency of custom almost uni- 
 versally adopted by the Portuguese on the banks of their 
 rivers, and not unfrequently on the sea-shore, — an example of 
 propriety which might well be imitated by nations laying 
 claim to greater delicacy and refinement. The civility of the 
 labouring classes amongst the Portuguese, if it has not done 
 so already, ought to pass into a proverb. It could not but be 
 pleasing to a person acquainted with the brutal manners of the 
 bargemen and boatmen on the Thames, to find the crews of the 
 numerous vessels on the Douro as prompt in their respectful 
 and well-meant salutations to foreigners, as the well-behaved 
 and courteous peasantry inhabiting the valleys and hills of the 
 remoter provinces. About two leagues from Cadao, we had 
 on the right bank vast olive woods mixed with chestnut-trees, 
 and large meadows surrounded by enclosures of a variety of 
 beautiful trees, and the myrtle still loving to grace the shore 
 with its snow-white blossoms. At Vimiero, on the left bank 
 of the river, the Company have recently erected a large brandy 
 distillery. The good cheer to which we were enabled, from 
 the liberally furnished condessa, to admit our boatmen, put 
 them into high spirits, and in consequence of their exertions 
 there was every reasonable expectation that we should reach 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 351 
 
 the hospitable mansion of our friend at Porto about night-fall. 
 They solaced their labours by taking up alternately the stanzas 
 of a song adapted to the eternal air, heard in every wild, and 
 in every street of every town in Portugal, the subject of which 
 was not much to the honour and credit of the monastic orders, 
 whose irregularities of life it set forth in the most ludicrous 
 point of view. The same ditty, however, was repeated over 
 and over again throughout the live-long day, and at last be- 
 came a perfectly inharmonious din. In our provision-basket 
 we found a cheese, a specimen of which, though somewhat 
 strong, we had admired at the table of our host of Regoa, 
 made of sheep's milk. It is manufactured by the shepherds, 
 who wander with their Merino flocks over the Serra da Estrel- 
 la, and being exceedingly scarce, is much valued as a present. 
 Some of it used to be sent, as a great rarity, by the royal 
 family of Portugal to that of Spain, and it is said far to exceed 
 in excellence the sheep-cheeses made in the Serras of the 
 province of Alemtejo. 
 
 The quinta of Ribeira on the right bank of the river, with 
 its orange and lemon-groves, plantations of olives and vine- 
 yards, forms a very pretty feature in the scenery of the Douro. 
 Still lower down, we passed under the rich convent of St. 
 Benedict, called San Joao de Valpendorado, situated on an 
 elevated ground above the river, and surrounded by a deep 
 forest of pine-wood, — a delightful retreat for those who culti- 
 vate learning or piety within its walls. 
 
 We remarked that our boatmen had lashed their masts to 
 the sides of our bark in readiness for their return, for which 
 the awning spread over us was intended to serve as a sail. A 
 bark capable of containing seventy pipes of wine or brandy, 
 costs, as far as the timber is concerned, about thirty-six moi- 
 dores ; and the sail is still more expensive, so that the whole 
 equipment of one of these vessels frequently amounts to very 
 nearly one hundred and fifty pounds. There are fisheries in 
 
352 PORTUGAL 
 
 various parts of the Douro, for chub, dace, and lamprey ; but 
 the Minho abounds with salmon, fine trout, eels, and savils, 
 which latter fish, as far as we can ascertain, must correspond 
 with the Berwick trout, or the sewin of the river Usk, itself 
 quite a distinct species of fish from the salmon. A great deal 
 of contraband trade in brandy is carried on upon the river, 
 owing to the high prices asked for it by the Company, which 
 has the exclusive right of its manufacture. Exceptions, how- 
 ever, are made in those cases, where a farmer may have some 
 pipes of Vinho de Ramo wine unsold upon his hands from the 
 last year, and he is allowed to distill brandy from the whole 
 quantity ; but even then such is the monopoly of the Com- 
 pany, that he is compelled by law to sell the whole of what 
 he distills to that body, and they fix their own value upon it, 
 which, as may be supposed, is by no means in proportion to 
 what they afterwards demand for the very same article. The 
 Company's limits for exportable wines extend to about twelve 
 leagues from the city of Porto, within which latter district the 
 Vinho Verde, an agreeable light wine, and never brandied, is 
 produced. 
 
 Three or four hours before sun-set, we passed the mouth of 
 thfe Uio Paiva, a little above Abarcal, on the left bank of the 
 river ; and at Albuzalema, a little lower down on the right 
 bank, beyond the embouchure of the Tamega, we were sum- 
 moned to the shore by a Company's guard stationed there, 
 who, learning that we were English travellers, immediately 
 released the boat without subjecting us to the delay and in- 
 convenience of a search. This district is called in Portuguese 
 " Between the two Rivers," from its situation. The village of 
 Albuzalema is approached over the Tamega by an extremely 
 long bridge, slightly built of wood, and only calculated for 
 foot-passengers. At this spot the rebels were held in check 
 by a small band of constitutionalists. Immediately at the 
 back of the village, a lofty mountain rises, which runs in the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 353 
 
 direction of north-east to south-west, and is covered with 
 olives, vines, oaks, and chestnut-trees, to its very summit. 
 The rural and singularly picturesque character of this retired 
 place, made us long to have a ramble in its neighbourhood ; 
 but the day was fast waning to its close, and therefore there 
 was no time to be spared for the purpose. We ought to have 
 reached the Tamega by the middle of the day, but the wind 
 blowing strongly up the river, added to the other delays ex- 
 perienced in the morning, had considerably retarded our pro- 
 gress, and therefore we saw that it would be impossible for us 
 to reach Porto before five o'clock the following morning. Our 
 men, who had been labouring all day at the oar, with scarcely 
 any intermission, began now to utter complaints against our 
 determination to proceed. 
 
 The sun-set was beautiful, and already the frequent occur- 
 rence of farm-houses and quintas distributed along the banks, 
 informed us that we were approaching the neighbourhood of a 
 large capital. One of the party happening to awake about 
 midnight from a sound sleep, into which he had fallen, as his 
 brother travellers had done likewise, found to his utter surprise 
 that the bark had been drawn on shore, that the boatmen 
 were all fast asleep on the sand, and the patrone himself en- 
 veloped by some coarse cloths, was snugly deposited in the 
 steerage. The party had been, it appeared, in that situation 
 during two hours," and it was explained to us that the men 
 were so completely exhausted, that they were quite unable to 
 proceed against the tide, which they asserted was now running 
 strong up the river, and that it would be necessary to await 
 its turn for three or four hours. But it proved afterwards that 
 we had actually stopped three leagues above the last point, to 
 which the tide reaches, and hence, for the last four hours 
 of our passage down the river, the boatmen were obliged to 
 get into the water, whenever the line of shore would permit 
 them, and drag the bark along, but with difficulty, so great 
 Port. z 
 
354 PORTUGAL 
 
 was the force of the tide against us. Had we gone only one 
 league lower down to Pendourido, we should have been 
 accommodated with a comfortable night's lodging at an Esta- 
 lagem, where gentlemen from Porto are in the habit of passing 
 several days at a time during the shooting season. As it was, 
 we did our best with our cloaks upon the bare benches ; and 
 the bivouac on the sand-bank of Carvoeiro will not easily be 
 forgotten, were it only from the recollection of the beautiful 
 night ; for never could the glories of the firmament have been 
 more magnificently displayed, never more brightly reflected, 
 than in the clear waters of the Douro on this memorable 
 occasion. 
 
 The scenery on the Douro, from Carvoeiro to Porto, resem- 
 bles in many particulars that of the Wye, especially in its 
 luxuriant woods and less elevated rocks ; but the Douro is 
 much broader here than our own favourite river, much more 
 majestic, and the landscape is more frequently enlivened by 
 villages and quintas, such for instance as the beautiful Quinta 
 da Grafeira, one of the prettiest which we have observed, 
 whose vine-clad terraces, orange groves, and olive plantations, 
 place them beyond all comparison with the country residences 
 on the banks of our most romantic rivers. 
 
 At Vallongo, about two miles from Porto> on the road to 
 Penafiel, and only a little distance from the river, where, by 
 the bye, the advanced guard of the rebel forces had arrived, 
 when on their way to pillage and murder the inhabitants 
 of Porto, are the coal mines belonging to the government, 
 which, as well as those formerly worked at Figueira, yield a 
 sort stronger than the Newcastle, but which will not bear to be 
 stirred. The produce of these mines is held in such little es- 
 timation, that the English, as well as the more opulent mer- 
 chants among the Portuguese, prefer the Newcastle and Welsh 
 coal ; and sometimes, from motives of economy, use them 
 mixed with the native. Wine vessels, coming from England 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 355 
 
 to the Douro, are often laden by way of ballast with coals 
 from Sunderland, Bristol, or Cardiff; from which latter port a 
 great deal of iron also is imported into Porto. 
 
 The government of Portugal claims the exclusive property 
 of every mine which may be opened by any individual specu- 
 lator. At the commencement of the reign of Joseph I., an 
 Englishman discovered a mine of coal at Buarcos, on the sea- 
 coast near Figueira, which, after many years of considerable 
 but useless expense, has at length been wholly abandoned. 
 The coal mine of San Pedro da Cova, near Porto, was disco- 
 vered in 1802, the quality of whose produce is said to be 
 excellent. About five years since, an experienced gentleman 
 was sent into Portugal by the Portuguese consul at Liverpool, 
 to examine into the state of the coal-mines ; and it was upon 
 his report that the Vallongo and Buarcos coal-mines were 
 taken by the present company from government at an annual 
 rent of twenty contos de reis ; though from certain indications 
 about the former, he expressed his doubts whether it would 
 not soon be exhausted. Henceforth, therefore, the greater 
 part of the coal consumed in Portugal will, in all probability, 
 be procured from England ; and thus, in another point again, 
 will this unfortunate country become dependent for a principal 
 necessary upon a foreign kingdom. 
 
 Spain, for many centuries, was considered the El Dorado of 
 the Roman empire ; nor was the province of Lusitania at all 
 deficient in her supplies of the precious metals. From the 
 beginning of the thirteenth century to the end of the fifteenth, 
 the rich productions of the native mines enabled the sovereigns 
 of Portugal to sustain burdensome wars, to erect sumptuous 
 palaces, and endow numerous ecclesiastical establishments. 
 The sands of the Tagus, however, and the gold mine of Adissa, 
 between Almada and Cezimbra, have long since ceased to be 
 productive ; while the mines of silver in the Serra de Santa 
 Justa, near Trancoso in the Beira, which were worked for a 
 
356 PORTUGAL 
 
 very long period by the Romans, and those of comparatively 
 recent discovery in the neighbourhood of Braganza, are no 
 longer considered of any value. Portugal is said to abound, 
 likewise, with rich iron mines, and particularly in the Comarca 
 of Castello-Branco ; but from this, as well as from several 
 others, which would well repay the labour of working them, 
 the Portuguese derive no sort of advantage whatever, for they 
 are wholly neglected. 
 
 Upon our arrival off the small town of Avintes, situated on 
 the left bank of the river, and at the distance of about five 
 miles from Porto, we were joined by a little fleet of boats 
 proceeding down to town with cargoes of brown, or rather 
 yellow bread, made from maize or Indian corn. The bakers 
 of Vallongo supply a coarse sort of white bread, which is used 
 for the household generally. As we entered upon the limits 
 of the town, we had again to haul to the right bank, opposite 
 the Company's floating guard-boat, and close to the quarry 
 now being worked to supply stones for the new line of quay, 
 which is to be continued from Porto to San Joao, in order to 
 undergo examination by the Wine Company's officers, who 
 allowed us, after a short parley, to proceed without further 
 trouble; and, passing under the platform of the bridge of 
 boats, we landed at the Porta dos Banhos. 
 
 Excepting Lisbon, Porto is the largest city in Portugal; 
 being the chief town of a corregimento, and the seat of a cor- 
 regedor, a provedor, and a military governor. It is also the 
 see of a bishop, who resides in his palace, or at Mezanfrio. 
 Porto has four suburbs, seven parishes, and twelve religious 
 houses. It is the seat of the high tribunal for the northern 
 provinces, called the Rela^aS do Porto, or, the Senado da 
 Relacao, the court of appeal from inferior tribunals. The 
 streets along the declivity of the hill are narrow, crooked, and 
 dirty ; but upon the hill are found again many fine broad 
 straight streets, with a great many new and handsome houses. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 357 
 
 On arriving at Porto the traveller seems almost to have quitted 
 Portugal, and to be suddenly transported to England; so 
 regular, so light and neat are all the buildings. Generally 
 speaking, Porto is without doubt the cleanest town in Portu- 
 gal. The steep declivity of the hill on which the city is built, 
 renders walking and riding on horseback, or in carriages, more 
 laborious than in Lisbon. On the east side of the town are 
 houses built against so steep a part of the declivity over the 
 stream, that they can only be entered by steps cut out of the 
 rock. This inconvenience, however, is compensated by the 
 romantic situation, and the prospect of the opposite bank with 
 its towns, villages, monasteries, and pine woods. 
 
 Nothing can be more strictly just than Link's remarks upon 
 the first appearance of Porto to a stranger : — 
 
 " When the traveller suddenly beholds a large city, with 
 innumerable churches and towers, on the side of a steep 
 mountain, between rocks that seem torn asunder, surrounded 
 by rude mountains, adorned with gardens, churches, and other 
 edifices, interspersed with pine woods, and looks down on a 
 fine and rapid stream covered with ships, amid scenes of 
 human activity that occupy a spot designed by nature for the 
 haunts of wild beasts, he is at once astonished and delighted 
 with the prospect ; the impression of which is rendered still 
 more lively by his vicinity to the objects, as the stream is far 
 from broad, and the valley very narrow. Lisbon strikes at a 
 distance by its great extent and magnificence ; Coimbra lies 
 solitary and forlorn in the heart-awakening fields of the Mon- 
 dego ; and Porto surprises by its elevated situation." 
 
 The mountains suddenly cease toward the coast, and the 
 land is lower at the mouth of the river ; but here and there 
 rocks rise out of the sand, rendering the entrance into the 
 harbour extremely narrow and very dangerous. The sea also 
 is very boisterous on these coasts during the rainy season, and 
 the river very rapid. The sand which the stream brings with 
 
358 PORTUGAL 
 
 it is retained by the rocks, and thus more and more chokes 
 the passage ; so that, unless great and powerful means are 
 employed, the harbour will at length be rendered totally use- 
 less. Endeavours, however, are made to keep the stream in 
 one place, so as to wash the sand away ; and something has 
 already been effected by labour. On the whole, however, 
 little has been done ; and much more can and must be per- 
 formed, if this important harbour is to be preserved. It is a 
 fearful sight to behold a ship, when the wind is at all strong, 
 winding its way through this narrow part of the bar. 
 
 Immediately opposite to Porto, on the south bank of the 
 Douro, is the appearance of a town not much smaller than 
 Porto itself. To the westward, along the declivity of a hill, 
 are a number of detached houses forming the market-town of 
 Gaya, a place remarkable both for its situation and name. You 
 will judge of its beautiful appearance from the drawing which 
 is inclosed with this letter, where the hill of Gaya is intro- 
 duced bounding the prospect. Here in former times a place 
 called Gale is said to have stood ; but Porto being afterwards 
 built, as being more convenient for ships by the greater depth 
 of the water along that bank, it was called Portus Gale, or 
 the harbour of Gale, whence was derived Portucal ; and at 
 length Portugal, according to Resende, became the name of 
 the whole kingdom. Portus Gale was subsequently called 
 O Porto, the harbour, which name the town of Oporto after- 
 wards received. The mountains along the north bank consist 
 of granite in rocks ; those along the south bank of stratified 
 granite and mica slate. On the south bank, a copper-mine 
 might be opened with great prospect of success. 
 
 The climate of Porto, as Mr. Link further observes, is in winter 
 damp and foggy, in consequence of its mountainous and woody 
 situation ; whence also the air is cooler than elsewhere, though 
 it seldom freezes. On the contrary, in summer the heat is 
 great, both in this narrow valley and the town, which is si- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 359 
 
 tuated on a southern declivity. Here, as also along the lower 
 coasts of Portugal, regular winds prevail in summer, viz. in the 
 morning the east wind, which toward noon veers to the south- 
 ward and then to the west, which confers many advantages on 
 navigation. The manners of society are taken from the Eng- 
 lish, who are here more numerous and considerable, in pro- 
 portion to the other rich inhabitants, than at Lisbon. 
 
 A picture of the earthquake at Lisbon has been lately shown 
 to us in the house of one of the first merchants of the place ; 
 but we were much disappointed both by the artist's conception 
 of the subject, and by the style of its execution ; for instead of 
 conveying any adequate idea of that awful calamity, its princi- 
 pal object would appear to have been to represent the powerful 
 effects of ecclesiastic intercession in staying the progress of 
 the evil. Here, as at Lisbon, the principal persons who deal 
 in prints are Italians ; while the millinery, perfumery, and 
 hair-dressing departments, are almost exclusively occupied by 
 natives of France. It is said that the inhabitants of this town 
 and neighbourhood are very liable to stone, and other diseases 
 of the bladder, from their constant practice of drinking new 
 and acrid wines. 
 
 A funeral procession has just passed under the windows of 
 our residence. Eight or ten young women, dressed in white, 
 carried a bier adorned with rich drapery, on which apparently 
 was a waxen image, with the face uncovered. It was clothed 
 in gaudy attire, and had upon its little head a glittering crown, 
 A closer inspection alone could satisfy us that it really was 
 the body of an infant, whom its friends were bearing, with 
 mournful chaunts, to the cathedral for interment. 
 
 Upon the recent incursion of the rebels, the wealthier inha- 
 bitants of Porto had made preparations to embark with their 
 families for personal safety on board the British vessels in the 
 harbour. In case of any civil commotion rendering such an 
 
360 PORTUGAL 
 
 alternative again necessary, the shallowness of the water over 
 the bar will not allow vessels of larger size than gun-brigs to 
 enter the Douro. The rapid movement of the Conde da Taipa, 
 and the able measures taken by General Stubbs in the defence 
 of the town, aided by the bravery of the militia, upon the oc- 
 casion alluded to, saved its inhabitants from plunder and car- 
 nage, for which the rebel troops were known to be thirsting. 
 
 Among the antiquities at Porto which the antiquary would 
 desire to preserve from injury, are several ancient windows 
 surrounded by singular and rich mouldings, which are very 
 ornamental to the domestic architecture of the place. They 
 bear traces of the Moorish character about them. 
 
 The inhabitants have been recently testifying their satisfac- 
 tion here, upon the anniversary of the constitution, by military 
 parades, feux de joie, salvos of artillery, and their favourite 
 amusement of fireworks even in the day-time. The following 
 jeu d'esprit has been circulated on the occasion. The lines 
 being read in a straight direction, have a meaning in favour of 
 the constitution ; but taken perpendicularly, in separate parts, 
 will appear to advocate the opposite cause. Upon the whole 
 they are rather ingenious, and may be worth your perusal, as 
 an evidence of the spirit of the times. A translation is added, 
 which however by no means conveys the force and point of 
 the original. 
 
 Do coracao detesto a Junta Apostolica 
 
 A Carta Portugueza em geral estimo 
 
 Reconhejo por Rey o Senhor Don Pedro IV. 
 
 O Senhor Don Miguel Rey nao pode ser 
 
 Em rebelde tenho o Marquez de Chaves 
 
 O General Saldanha por leal o tenho 
 
 Reconhefo Regents a Senhora Infanta 
 
 A Rainha Carlota nao pode reger-nos 
 
 Dedico reverencia aos Constitucionaes 
 
 Aos Realistaa Corcundas contrario serei. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 361 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 I heartily detest the Apostolic Junta 
 
 The Portuguese Charter I generally esteem 
 
 I own to be King Don Pedro IV. 
 
 Senhor Don Miguel cannot be King 
 
 As a rebel I hold the Marquess of Chaves 
 
 The General Saldauha I hold to be loyal 
 
 I own the Regent Senhora Infanta 
 
 The Queen Charlotte cannot govern us 
 
 I pay reverence (to) the Constitutionalists 
 
 (to) the Royalist Corcundas against I shall be. 
 
 It is impossible to bid farewell to Porto without briefly- 
 noticing the institution and progress of the constitutional go- 
 vernment, with which the enlightened inhabitants of this city- 
 may be considered as identified. To whatever imjnediaie in- 
 fluence the first measures adopted by them in favour of a 
 representative system may be attributed, it is quite clear that 
 a complete change in the established rule of the country had 
 become both desirable and unavoidable. The manner, too, in 
 which this bloodless revolution was effected in the short term 
 of thirty-seven days, was highly creditable to the foresight 
 and moderation of all the parties concerned. They appear to 
 have been actuated solely by the view of improving the condi- 
 tion of their native land, and not by any spirit of wild or dis- 
 loyal innovation, for they maintained their fidelity and attach- 
 ment to the house of their sovereign throughout the whole 
 course of their arduous undertaking. The family of Braganza 
 owed their elevation to the throne of Portugal to a similar 
 exertion on the part of the people ; the crown was conferred 
 upon Alphonso I., and the fundamental laws of the monarchy 
 established by the representatives of the nation assembled at 
 the Cortes of Lamego. John I. was elected king by the 
 Cortes assembled at Coimbra in 1385, after the defeat of the 
 Spaniards on the plain of Aljubarrota, when additional articles 
 
362 PORTUGAL 
 
 in support of the liberty of the subject, beyond those provided 
 by the constitution of Lamego, received the sanction of the 
 states; and, as we have seen, the first care of John IV. was 
 to procure a recognition of his right to the crown by an 
 assembly of the states at Lisbon. Thus the people were made 
 of some consideration in the state. 
 
 "With these historical examples before them, surely it was 
 natural that the thinking part of the Portuguese should 
 attempt, in the spirit of patriotism, the restoration of their 
 ancient privileges and institutions, modified, indeed, according 
 to the demands of a more enlightened age, of which they had 
 been gradually deprived by a succession of imbecile sovereigns, 
 themselves the slaves of an artful and ambitious priesthood ! 
 What but the misery and degradation of a people could be 
 expected as the natural consequences of such continued mis- 
 rule ? The lines of Thomson forcibly illustrate the point in 
 question : — 
 
 When kings of narrow genius, minion- rid. 
 Neglecting faithful worth for fawning slaves; 
 Proudly regardless of their people's plaints. 
 And poorly passive of insulting foes ; 
 Double, not prudent, obstinate, not firm. 
 Their mercy fear, necessity their faith ; 
 Instead of generous fire, presumptuous, hot. 
 Rash to resolve and slothful to perform ; 
 Tyrants at once and slaves, imperious, mean. 
 To want rapacious joining shameful waste ; 
 By counsels weak and wicked, easy roused 
 To paltry schemes of absolute command, 
 To seek their splendour in their sure disgrace. 
 And in a broken ruined people wealth : 
 When such o'ercast the state, no bond of love. 
 No heart, no soul, no unity, no nerve. 
 Combined the loose disjointed public, lost 
 To fame abroad, to happiness at home. 
 
 The elegant writer upon the state of Portugal, who was 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 3G3 
 
 himself an eye-witness of all the interesting proceedings in 
 Lisbon at this memorable period, thus describes the real con- 
 dition of Portugal at the moment when the people of Porto 
 resolved upon the re-establishment of the Cortes: — 
 
 " The extinction of the few native manufactories of the 
 kingdom, the total loss of the lucrative commerce of Brasil, 
 and the utter ruin of agriculture by the ravages of a cruel war- 
 fare, had all conspired to overwhelm the mass of the Portu- 
 guese population in distress and poverty. The return of a 
 season of tranquillity, after the close of the peninsular war, 
 which should have healed the wounds left by foreign invasion 
 and national misfortunes, had been permitted to exercise no 
 real salutary influence. On the contrary, during these six 
 years, the continued residence of the court in Brasil, with the 
 exactions of an absentee nobility, the general corruption of the 
 institutions of the government, and the misrule of the regency, 
 had altogether aggravated, instead of assuaging, the sufferings 
 of the nation. The clergy, and the harpies of administration, 
 had alone flourished amidst the general calamity. The great 
 body of the people, and especially the peasantry, were reduced 
 to the lowest stage of penury and wretchedness ; and an 
 army, distinguished under its British commander for discipline 
 and loyalty, had been goaded into impatience and discontent. 
 That beneath such a system of misrule and misery, the whole 
 country should have become ripe for any change, will excite 
 wonder in no reflecting mind ; and it did not require the spirit 
 of prophecy to anticipate that the first revolutionary movement 
 would be eagerly embraced, and successfully prosecuted, 
 against the corrupt and imbecile government. The insignifi- 
 cant manner in which the revolution of 1820 was effected, 
 fully manifested the general disaffection of the nation against 
 its contemptible rulers." 
 
 The revolution which had broken out in Spain on the 1st 
 of January, 1820, would have, it was natural to expect, con- 
 
364 PORTUGAL 
 
 siderable effect upon the minds of the Portuguese, in rousing 
 them at last to a deep sense of the wrongs inflicted upon them 
 by the errors of their imbecile rulers. All classes were suf- 
 fering ; misery and misrule had attained their height ; Portu- 
 gal seemed to be forgotten by the royal family, or regarded 
 only as a colony of Brasil. Under these circumstances, the 
 convocation of the national congress was proclaimed by the 
 military, and hailed with acclamations by the inhabitants of 
 Porto, and a supreme provisional government was installed 
 and recognised by all the local authorities. The counter- 
 proclamation by the cardinal patriarch could not repress the 
 feelings of the people at Lisbon, whose voice was soon loudly 
 given in favour of a revival of the constitutional system. In 
 the meantime the cause continued to prosper, and the new 
 government established itself, with the regiments attached to 
 its views, at Coimbra, intending, if necessary, to march upon 
 the capital, and confirm, with the aid of military force, the 
 favourable disposition of its inhabitants. Happily, this sad 
 alternative was obviated ; the regency was peaceably dis- 
 solved, and six persons were elected to form a provisional 
 government. The union of the two provisional governments 
 of Porto and Lisbon, by the removal of the former from Coim- 
 bra to Alcobap a, soon afterwards took place ; and there it was 
 decreed that, pro tempore, the government should consist of 
 two sections or divisions composed indiscriminately of members 
 from Porto and Lisbon ; the first being entitled the supreme 
 executive provisional government ; the second, the provisional 
 government for the convocation of the Cortes, and for the pre- 
 vious arrangement of its labours, under the presidency of the 
 Count Sampayo. Every difficulty being happily adjusted by 
 the wisdom and reciprocal liberality of the members of the 
 two governments, they entered Lisbon on the 1st of October, 
 1820, without the attendance of any troops, amidst the enthu- 
 siastic acclamations of all ranks of its inhabitants ; and their 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 365 
 
 first act was to swear fidelity to the Catholic religion, and 
 allegiance to the house of Braganza. 
 
 During these proceedings, Lord Beresford arrived in the 
 Tagus from Brasil, whither he had proceeded in order to 
 represent to Don Joao VI. the true state of his European 
 dominions ; but, according to the authority quoted above, " so 
 well aware of his deserved popularity with the troops, and his 
 influence over them, were those who had seized the reins of 
 government, that they refused him permission to land, lest his 
 loyal exertions might produce some reaction favourable to the 
 King." The British officers in the pay of Portugal were like- 
 wise directed to quit their respective regiments, still continu- 
 ing however to receive their pay. 
 
 The approaching elections gave rise to a variety of cabals 
 and intrigues, neither the army nor the people of Lisbon being 
 satisfied with the method adopted for the return of the mem- 
 bers to the national congress. The military influence was in 
 favour of the Spanish constitution, but with more liberal pro- 
 visions. Accordingly, when the deputies, to the number of 
 a hundred, among whom were some of the most distinguished 
 individuals of the country, assembled in the palace of the Ne- 
 cessidades at Belem, they were directed to form a constitu- 
 tion for the acceptance of the people, on the basis of that of 
 Spain, modified and adapted to the particular circumstances 
 and wants of Portugal. On the installation of this general 
 congress, the powers of the provisional government ceased, 
 and an executive government consisting of ten persons, to act 
 as a regency in the name of the king, was immediately 
 created. Silveira was in the meanwhile ordered to retire to 
 his estates in the Tras os Montes, and at length, on the 29th of 
 March 1821, the civil, religious, and military authorities of the 
 kingdom, solemnly declared their adhesion to the bases of the 
 constitution. At first, the members of the Cortes conducted 
 themselves with dignity, moderation, and wisdom ; but the 
 
3G6 PORTUGAL 
 
 wildness of their measures soon convinced the nation that, in 
 altering the form of government, they had only exchanged one 
 class of tyrants for another. Hence arose among the Portu- 
 guese people an inveterate dislike to the new order of things, 
 " for they savir their present rulers actuated by one unvarying 
 spirit of hostility against all that they revered, and out- doing 
 the late regency in their reckless sacrifice of national prospe- 
 rity to their own selfish purposes. 
 
 " A formidable band of oppositionists," continues an eye- 
 witness, " stood arrayed against the new system. These were 
 the parochial clergy and different religious orders with which 
 Portugal abounds. The vast number of the latter, the unli- 
 mited influence which they possess over the minds of the 
 people, and their consummate skill in directing such influence 
 so as best to promote their own private interests, should have 
 induced the Cortes to make any possible sacrifice to attach 
 these powerful allies to the constitutional party, as knowing 
 that their enmity was not to be despised. But on the con- 
 trary, every provocation and indignity was levelled at them, 
 and they were impoverished and scattered about the country. 
 Nothing can be more evident than the necessity of diminishing 
 the overbearing authority of the church in Portugal, but the 
 utmost care and circumspection are requisite in pursuing the 
 difficult work. The Cortes began by abusing every religious 
 institution in a more vehement manner than the greatest lati- 
 tudinarian would sanction ; and after this specimen of their 
 good will, they proceeded to legislate for the ecclesiastical 
 body. Popular sympathy was awakened in favour of the dis- 
 possessed communities of monks ; and the character of a suffer- 
 ing priesthood, of which they failed not to make the most, was 
 enveloped in twofold sanctity among these zealous devotees of 
 the Romish faith. The cruelty practised towards the patriarch 
 of Lisbon, on his refusal to take the oath to the constitution, 
 aroused against the Cortes all the female population." 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 367 
 
 Nor were the errors of the Cortes limited to their injurious 
 and impolitic conduct towards the clerical orders ; for upon his 
 landing from Brasil, the amiable sovereign himself experienced 
 likewise unmeasured indignity at their hands, and the queen 
 became the particular object of their contumelious treatment. 
 If it be true that, in the bitterness of her heart, stung by the 
 sense of these injuries, she has been heard to utter a prayer 
 that the government of the country might be confided to her 
 hands for only four-and-twenty hours, in order to wreak her 
 vengeance upon the enemies of her person, some palliation 
 may be found for this vindictive feeling in the outrageous 
 insults offered to her by the Cortes, from which even her sex 
 and rank proved no protection. That she has ever been and 
 continues to be the inveterate and active foe to liberal institu- 
 tions, is well known to the world ; but this hostility may have 
 been aggravated and confirmed by the proceedings of the 
 Cortes. Slander has been very active with her moral cha- 
 racter ; but as a woman and as a queen, a certain degree of 
 commiseration and forbearance is due to her. 
 
 The first appearance in arms of the Conde de Amarante 
 failed in its object, but the irrational conduct of the members 
 of the Cortes precipitated their own fall, and the king was 
 finally restored to the possession of absolute power. The in- 
 trigues of Subserra, who now acquired political distinction in 
 the state, led to numerous disorders, and placed Don Miguel, 
 upon whose mind his mother's representations also had consi- 
 derable influence, in open revolt against the king ; and for a 
 time the exercise of the royal authority was actually suspended. 
 At length," through British influence, the sovereign was again 
 restored to the undisturbed exercise of his royal rights, and 
 the Prince Miguel was conveyed to France in a Portuguese 
 vessel, on his way to Vienna. Had the king lived, he would 
 probably have fulfilled his promise of giving a constitution to 
 
368 PORTUGAL 
 
 his subjects, but that was reserved for Don Pedro ; whose first 
 act, upon succeeding to the crown of his father, was to grant 
 the present constitutional charter to the people of Portugal. 
 A powerful faction of absolutists, however, still existed in the 
 country, and hence the latter insurrections conducted by their 
 leading advocates, Chaves and Abrantes, who in their several 
 enterprises received assistance from Spain, the natural enemy 
 of Lusitanian liberty. 
 
 The important events which accompanied and followed the 
 promulgation of the Imperial Charter, are still fresh in the 
 recollection of everybody, and therefore we need not enter 
 into any very minute detail concerning them. As we have 
 stated before, Don Pedro, upon receiving intelligence of his 
 father's death, resolved, as, by the treaty of separation between 
 the two countries, he could not retain both crowns in his own 
 person, to adhere to that of Brasil, and to abdicate prospec- 
 tively the sovereignty of Portugal in favour of his daughter. 
 Donna Maria da Gloria. To indemnify Portugal in some 
 degree for the loss which she would sustain by the erection of 
 Brasil into an independent empire, Don Pedro determined 
 likewise to give effect to his father's avowed and known inten- 
 tions, in granting to the Portuguese the blessing of a consti- 
 tutional charter ; and he made its adoption by the nation one 
 of the express conditions of the surrender of his legitimate 
 right to the throne of his ancestors. 
 
 For some months subsequent to the death of Don Joao VI., 
 the Emperor was uniformly acknowledged by all the Portu- 
 tuguese authorities to be the legitimate and undisputed sove- 
 reign of Portugal. Not a dissentient voice was heard against 
 his claims to the succession ; the government was regularly 
 administered in his name, as the lawful heir of the deceased 
 monarch ; and even Don Miguel, though at the moment 
 receiving his lessons in the political school of Metternich, 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 369 
 
 professed himself in a public letter the subject of his brother, at 
 the same time acknowledging the Emperor's indefeasible right 
 to the crown of Portugal. The moment, however, the charter 
 made its appearance in the country, the legitimacy of the Em- 
 peror was questioned by the Corcunda faction at Lisbon, and 
 every effort was made by the apostolical party to crush the 
 new arrangements before they could assume any political shape 
 or substance ; and accordingly, Don Miguel was proclaimed by 
 the Absolutists the rightful heir of Don Joao VI. Until the 
 arrival of the charter from Brasil, all parties had quietly con- 
 curred in the regular order of succession ; but as soon as it was 
 conjectured that the fidalgos and the priesthood were to have 
 their privileges abridged, and their excesses controuled by its 
 operation, they united, from selfish motives, in armed opposi- 
 tion to the rights of Don Pedro, and his attempt to introduce 
 constitutional freedom into Portugal. 
 
 " If," however, as has been justly remarked in a recent 
 publication of the highest character, " the origin of the charter 
 be legitimate, what is there in the enactments of the instru- 
 ment itself to alarm the timid, though honest, friend of law 
 and order ? It reserves to the crown ample means of dignity 
 and undiminished powers of self- protection ; it guarantees the 
 established religion in its full splendour and its exclusive 
 public exercise; it interferes with no private property; it 
 attacks no established rights; it destroys no ancient, well- 
 earned titles. The monk is not driven from his cell, robbed 
 of his relics, or deprived of his means of lazy luxury. The 
 bishop, besides retaining all his revenues and ecclesiastical 
 immunities, is enabled to surmount his episcopal mitre with a 
 peer's coronet. The higher titles of nobiUty are called to 
 form an upper national council, while the lower, so far from 
 being degraded, may enjoy a greater degree of political con- 
 sequence by entering the chamber of deputies. Towns and 
 corporations are stripped of none of their privileges ; and no 
 Port. 2 A 
 
370 PORTUGAL 
 
 honours or means of advancement, in civil or military profes- 
 sions., are abolished or touched." 
 
 The anti-constitutional party had at once recourse to open 
 violence ; the convents supplied the funds required for arming 
 their partizans ; the standard of rebellion was raised in the name 
 of Don Miguel ; numerous regiments of the regular troops were 
 seduced from their duty to join the rebels ; and Spain, with all 
 her protestations of neutrality, paid, armed, and disciplined them 
 within her own frontier. Defeated in the Algarve, the insur- 
 gents returned into Spain, and marching thence again, con- 
 ducted some successful operations in the Tras os Montes and 
 the Alemtejo, and at length possessed themselves of the whole 
 of the Upper Beira. Upon the second invasion, however, of 
 their country, they were defeated in the Minho, and ulti- 
 mately compelled to retreat within the Spanish territory. No 
 doubt whatever exists of the secret correspondence carried on 
 between the absolutist faction in Spain and that of Portugal. 
 In the mean time, the views of the Spanish government began 
 to be more clearly developed ; for in proportion as the rebel 
 armies of Portugal were dispersed, her own received augmen- 
 tation. A small corps of observation, established between the 
 Tagus and Guadiana, from considerable additions of men, 
 soon assumed the character of a regular army, which had 
 its reserve posted in the neighbourhood of Talavera. The 
 death of the Empress of Brasil, the daughter of the Em- 
 peror of Austria, it was supposed, would have given a new 
 direction to the politics of that country with respect to Por- 
 tugal. 
 
 At length the Princess Regent found herself compelled to 
 claim succours from England, upon the faith of existing trea- 
 ties, against the Portuguese insurgents and the menacing 
 attitude assumed by Spain. The message of our sovereign to 
 Parliament, and the brilliant oratory of Mr. Canning on the 
 occasion, can never be forgotten. Though it was winter, 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 371 
 
 the demands of the Regent were promptly answered, and a 
 body of British troops, to the number of five or six thousand 
 men, immediately made their appearance on the banks of 
 the Tagus, under the command of General Sir W. Clinton. 
 The head-quarters of the English army were at first esta- 
 blished at Coimbra, to be ready to act on the line of the 
 Estrella, or in the Minho, as circumstances should require ; 
 and afterwards, the Spanish troops making corresponding 
 movements within their own territory, were removed to 
 Leiria, nearer Lisbon. Subsequently, our troops were sta- 
 tioned at Thomar, Torres Novas, Cartaxo, and Alhandra ; 
 and finally the whole were quartered at Lisbon, and in its 
 neighbourhood, preparatory to their return to England. 
 
 This prompt assistance rendered to the government of the 
 Infanta Regent by England, and the ability displayed by all 
 the constitutional generals, have happily defeated the views of 
 the Portuguese insurgents, abetted by their friends, the abso- 
 lutists of Spain. Much however still remains to be done 
 against monastic intrigue, priestly misrepresentations, cama- 
 rillas, and courtiers, for the defence of the constitution, and 
 also, it should be admitted, for its improvement ; but this of 
 course will be gradually effected, and we may therefore en- 
 courage the rational expectation that the various interests of 
 the nation will at length be combined in an unanimity of 
 feeling towards the support of the Emperor's gift. It is, as 
 has been wisely remarked, by progressive steps, that important 
 objects are most securely attained, and the rejection of any 
 practicable improvement upon the ground that it is not greater, 
 differs in substantial effect, but little from open and avowed 
 resistance to all improvement whatever. The constitution 
 granted by the Emperor, if not perfect in all its provisions, has 
 at least prepared the way for a better system of government, 
 founded upon the principles of rational freedom, and promises 
 
372 
 
 PORTUGAL 
 
 eventually to work out the complete renovation of Portugal. 
 Let us then join in the exclamations of the multitude, " Viva 
 o Senhor D. Pedro IV !" " Viva a Carta ! ! ! " " Viva a Con- 
 stitujfao ! ! !" " Morrao os Frades ! ! !" 
 
 BARQUE DRAWN BY OXEN UP A RAPID OF THE DOURO. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 373 
 
 LETTER XIV. 
 
 From Helicon the Muses wing their way ; 
 Mondego's flowery banks invite their stay : 
 Now Coimbra shines Minerva's proud abode ; 
 And, fired with joy, Parnassus' blooming god 
 Beholds another dear loved Athens rise. 
 And spread her laurels in indulgent skies ; 
 Her wreath of laurels ever green he twines 
 With threads of gold, and baccaris adjoins. 
 
 LvsiAD. 
 
 Figueria, 1827. 
 Two roads lead from Porto to Coimbra ; the one partly along 
 the coast by Ovar and Aveiro, and thence, leaving the sea to 
 the right, by Palhaf a, Vendas Novas, and Marcos, about one 
 league from which place it falls into the main route of Lisbon. 
 The other, which is the principal road, passes by S'" Ant" dos 
 Garvalhos, and Grijo, at a little distance to the right of which 
 is situated a large and rich convent of the Augustine order ; 
 and then by Souto Redondo and Santo Antonio to Oliveira de 
 Azemeis, in the Comarca of Feira, a small neat town, singular 
 for its cleanliness, where the better classes are sadly infected 
 with the distemper called Fidalguia, an " absolute " plague 
 
374 PORTUGAL 
 
 in the place ; thence to Pinheiro da Bemposta, Alvergaria 
 Nova, and Alvergaria Velha, where there is a good estalagem 
 kept by two priests, with the assistance, or rather under the 
 dominion, of their sister. One of the worthy ecclesiastics is 
 an enthusiast in music, and often beguiles the tedious hours of 
 the wearied traveller with the sweet sounds of his guitar, 
 and if properly flattered, may be coaxed out of a modinha 
 of his own composition. When any unfortunate accident 
 occurs to put the silver chords of the good dame's voice in 
 motion, our friend is compelled to sooth his sorrows, apart, 
 like the hero of old, with the strings of his own lyre, of whom 
 the poet says. 
 
 Tor 8' evpov ippeva reptrofievov <j)6pfj.iyyi Xtyetrf, 
 
 KaX^, bai8a\er], 
 
 Trj oye 6v/ibv erepnev, aei8e h' cipa Kkia afipSiy. 
 
 for the harmony of the household is on those occasions com- 
 pletely interrupted. 
 
 The route then runs on by Sardao, Mealhada, through a 
 remarkably fine country to Coimbra ; but being desirous of 
 visiting Ovar and Aveiro, we took the lower road, and passed 
 the first night at the quinta of Melladas, where our worthy 
 host received his guests with that same kindness and liberal 
 hospitality which they had experienced from every branch of 
 his amiable and excellent family at Porto and in its vicinity. 
 He showed us with pride the bed-room in which the Duke of 
 Wellington had reposed, and the very log of wood in the 
 court-yard upon which the hero, who had reached the quinta 
 before preparations could be completed for his reception, was 
 found asleep wrapped in his military cloak. The generous 
 praise which we heard bestowed upon the victorious champion 
 of Portuguese independence, was as gratifying to British 
 travellers as it was honourable to the noble mind of our host, 
 whom none of the prejudices of his countrymen could persuade 
 to withhold the meed of praise and of gratitude due to Eng- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 375 
 
 land and to the illustrious commander of her forces. The moun- 
 tain scenery and the rich vallies occurring between Porto and 
 Melladas, and the pine-forests which surround its neighbour- 
 hood, reminded us of some of the beautiful landscapes which 
 we had admired in the province of the Minho; nor is the 
 system of cultivation adopted in this district at all inferior to 
 the best modes practised in the more northern parts of Portu- 
 gal. Having followed a by-road to Ovar, through a country 
 abounding with deep sand and extensive woods of pine, we 
 passed to the right of the village of Sobral, where begin moun- 
 tains of argillaceous slate, which soon give way to a mica 
 slate, and introduce a high range extending with steep 
 crowded mountains along the south side of the Douro, as far 
 as Lamego and beyond. It is seen in the distance, even at 
 Aveiro, but sinks as it approaches the sea. 
 
 Ovar is a remarkably neat and clean town, situated near the 
 confluence of a small river of the same name, with an arm of 
 the Vouga, which is properly a lake. It is pretty narrow for 
 three leagues in the neighbourhood of Aveiro, then becomes 
 much broader during a league, forming a true lake, and at length 
 ends in a narrow channel a league long, which ceases close to 
 Ovar. The streets of this town are remarkable for their perfect 
 freedom from filth, and the habits of the people offer a singu- 
 lar contrast to the want of attention shown in other Portuguese 
 towns to the common decencies of life. The women, whom 
 we saw in the market-place at an early hour in the morning 
 selling fruit, seated on the bear stones, and drawing threads 
 from distafl's of the olden form, wore large black hats, which 
 fell with flaps over their shoulders ; and their mantillas also 
 beitig black, the groupe had an unusually sombre, nay, con- 
 ventual appearance. One of the party, who had occasion for 
 opium, found to his surprise the dispensary of medicines com- 
 mitted to two young females, whose blooming cheeks re- 
 sembled those of the goddess of health herself; but no opium 
 
376 POUTUGAL 
 
 was to be had from their Botica, such was the inexorable 
 sternness with which they insisted upon seeing a physician's 
 certificate as their authority for parting with a single drop of 
 medicine. The Esculapian resolution of a worthy priest at 
 Aveiro, who enacted the part of apothecary and confessor, was 
 not formed out of such unyielding materials, for he proved 
 compassionate and compounding. Between Ovar and Aveiro, 
 we traversed a distance of from four to five leagues upon the 
 lagune in a covered boat, with which we were accommodated 
 by the committee of the Royal Tobacco Contractors, and thus 
 were spared the endurance of a great deal of heat, to which 
 we should have been exposed in one of the open barques of the 
 place. A numerous fleet of boats was employed on the lake 
 in raking up sea-weed for manure, which is disposed on 
 board with singular nicety. The water is fresh, though only 
 separated from the sea by high banks of sand, and it varies in 
 depth, seldohi however exceeding three or four feet, and in 
 many parts of it the boats are pushed along by poles. The 
 shape of the sails used for these little vessels has a novel and 
 striking appearance, about a quarter of the large oblong square 
 sheet being cut out for the uninterrupted sight of the steers- 
 man, who manages his boat with much dexterity. We passed 
 over the surface of the lake with great rapidity ; but in the 
 shallow water our men were frequently obliged to drag the 
 boat for a considerable distance, the water being scarcely up 
 to the calves of their legs. The sea-weed manure brought to 
 the quay at Ovar is sold to the country people, who carry it 
 away to their farms in small carts, with heavy creaking wheels, 
 drawn by oxen. 
 
 As we approached Aveiro, we observed on either side of the 
 lake numerous conical stacks of salt, with a man and boy at 
 each salt-pan, and in many instances endeavouring to resist 
 the importunities of the monks, who were passing in boats 
 from one place to another, begging small donations of salt for 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 377 
 
 the honour of St. Peter, whose f^te they were about to cele- 
 brate in their several convents. The boatmen remarked, that 
 the salt made the devotees of the saint extremely thirsty to- 
 wards the conclusion of their religious ceremonies. The salt 
 would not be marked AI in the factor's invoice, nor is its 
 quality at all to be compared with that made in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Setuval. It is chiefly exported to Newfoundland 
 to be used in curing cod-fish, and is imported again in the 
 shape of bacalhao. Some proportion of it is carried along the 
 coast to the ports of the Minho, where it is purchased for the 
 consumption of the inhabitants of that province, the Tras os 
 Montes, and Galicia. The province of Beira is principally 
 furnished from this neighbourhood with sardinhas. This 
 district supplies also for exportation, oil, wine, and oranges. 
 A very handsome quay runs along either side of the Vouga, in 
 the centre of Aveiro, to a considerable extent, affording ample 
 conveniences for loading vessels, and for the discharge of their 
 cargoes. Aveiro is set down in some maps as Braganfa 
 Nova. 
 
 The city of Aveiro, as is stated by Link, is situated in 
 a flat and very marshy country, at the mouth of the Vouga. 
 It is the capital of a corregimento, has a corregedor and pro- 
 vedor, contains four parishes, and six monasteries. The old 
 walls still remain, but the town extends beyond them ; the 
 houses are generally small, and there are very few rich people. 
 The river Vouga flows through the town, and then divides into 
 two branches, one to the left and southward, running to the 
 sea, the other northward to Ovar. Its trade is inconsiderable, 
 only small boats coming to the town ; nor indeed could any but 
 small ships pass the bar, which is continually shifting. 
 
 The violence of the north-west winds, which are prevalent 
 on the coast, continually force the sands forward to the inte- 
 rior of the port, and here therefore as in the Landes, and in 
 the immediate neighbourhood of Bourdeaux, Monsieur Bra- 
 
378 PORTUGAL 
 
 mantier's system of forming large plantations of the Pinus Ma- 
 ritima, to resist the inward pressure of the accumulating heaps, 
 might be adopted with very great advantage. At one time the 
 evil had risen to such a height, that the whole commerce of 
 Aveiro was on the point of being extinguished ; for the bar was 
 removed from its original position off the mouth of the Vouga 
 no less than fifteen miles in the direction of Palhaf a and Mira. 
 Nor was this the only calamitous effect of the port of Aveiro 
 being choked up, for the waters within the plain became 
 stagnant, and produced endemial diseases, and consequent 
 mortality to an alarming extent. Early, however, in the 
 present century, measures were taken by the government to 
 restore the port and commerce of Aveiro to their former foot- 
 ing, and skilful engineers were employed, who, by the con- 
 struction of a bank or dike of considerable length, and by the 
 contraction of the channel of the Vouga in consequence, have 
 given its current strength sufficient not only to force an open- 
 ing at the time through the opposing accumulation of sands, 
 but to prevent their subsequent increase and conjunction. 
 The first effects of these beneficial improvements were evi- 
 denced in the more salubrious state of the atmosphere, in the 
 less frequent occurrence of marsh fevers engendered by noxious 
 miasmata; and eventually in the renovation of the commerce 
 formerly enjoyed by the town. Only vessels, however, of 
 small burden are able to come up into the port, on account of 
 the shallow water over the bar. 
 
 As we were about to leave Aveiro, the whole population of 
 the place seemed to be suddenly put into motion. Crowds of 
 peasants, who had come hither in order to attend the f6te of St. 
 Bartholomew, were seen hurrying along the quay to take their 
 seats in the long barques, resembling our canal-boats, though 
 broader, which were ready to take them back to Ovar, Angeja, 
 Erguiceira, San Jacinto, Atalaya, and Vagos, situated at differ- 
 ent points of the lagune. Their costumes were very singular ; 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 379 
 
 and one female's dress was so remarkable, as to excite our 
 particular observation. She wore a fine cloth cloak, or man- 
 tilla, of a dark colour, lined with silk ; heavy gold chains in 
 profusion round her neck ; a large broad hat, as complete a 
 defence against the sun and rain as an umbrella ; but, as usual, 
 no shoes on her feet. Such however was her proud bearing 
 and dignified mien, as she marched slowly to the barque sur- 
 rounded by the inferior people of her village, that it might be 
 questioned whether Cleopatra herself took possession of her 
 gilded barge under greater pomp of circumstance. The road 
 hence to Palhai^a, leaving the Dominican convent to the right, 
 is tolerably good, but very sandy in the greater part, and 
 passes through a country which is well cultivated and very 
 productive. Sea- weed, mixed with other vegetable sub- 
 stances, forms the manure in universal use throughout this 
 district. Palha^a is a solitary inn, not far from the straggling 
 village of the same name, and upon the whole affords better 
 accommodation than that in Aveiro, which may be left to take 
 its rank with all the other filthy houses of public reception in 
 Portugal. 
 
 On our road to Palha^a we overtook numerous groupes of 
 rustics returning from their attendance at the f6te, who were 
 generally preceded by a peasant playing on a guitar, singing 
 to its accompaniment some one verse out of a long string of 
 couplets of which the ballad might consist. It really is a 
 cheering sight to meet with a party of these peasants in their 
 holiday attire, gaily proceeding homeward, and uniting their 
 voices in very respectable harmony to the sounds of the na- 
 tional instrument. Sometimes a graver subject forms the 
 theme of their song, and a hymn is raised to Nossa Senhora, 
 which, heard at the close of day from a distance, chaunted 
 by a full chorus in melodious concord, has a singularly 
 fiuQ- effect. The following lines are enclosed as a speci- 
 men : — 
 
380 PORTUGAL 
 
 Para Mai de Deos, 
 E de homens mortais 
 Nasceis O Maria ! 
 Louvada sejais. 
 
 Nasceis como estrelha, 
 E Aurora ! Sois mais ; 
 Sois luz, Sol, e Lua ; 
 Louvada sejais. 
 
 Passing through the village of Quintana, we found the inha- 
 bitants and neighbouring peasantry also assembled at a fi&te 
 upon the occasion of the invocation of St. Bartholomew. Two 
 arches, composed of light wood-work covered with flowers, 
 were erected across the road ; and opposite the detached farm- 
 houses the road was strewed with evergreens, branches of 
 orange and lemon trees, rosemary, bay, and myrtle boughs. 
 The guitar, and even the jew's-harp capitally played upon, 
 had attracted listening crowds ; and groupes of happy dancers 
 were formed in the open space opposite the church. By way 
 of a felicitous contrast, a waltz, to our infinite amusement, was 
 maintained with great spirit between an infant and an old 
 man of seventy, which, if not managed with Parisian elegance 
 and in strict accordance with time, had at least the merit of 
 novelty to attract a stranger's notice. Did the ceremonies of 
 the Romish Church lead no further than to the innocent en- 
 joyments of its adherents, it would be well ; but these, alas! 
 form only, as we may say, the poetry of the system. The sad 
 reality remains to be discovered in the tyranny of the confes- 
 sional, in the arrogant exactions and in the unchristian impo- 
 sitions of the papal chair. 
 
 Our muleteers regaled themselves at supper with a favourite 
 Portuguese dish called " frangaos emsopados," which to the 
 eye resembles a curry ; but experience does not allow us to 
 pronounce upon its taste. It consists of several chickens dis- 
 membered, and stewed in a large pan, into which is poured. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 381 
 
 at a certain stage of the preparation, the blood of the birds, 
 carefully drained at the moment of their being sacrificed to 
 do honour to the traveller's arrival. Rice and herbs are after- 
 wards added, and occasionally a dash of wine; and by those 
 whose stomachs can admit such a composition, it is affirmed to 
 be pleasing to the smell and piquant to the taste, " Peito de 
 rola," or the breast part of wild doves, served up with highly- 
 seasoned Hce, is a dish in general estimation among the higher 
 classes, and would challenge the approval of the most fasti- 
 dious traveller. We had to remonstrate with one of our guides 
 upon his excessive attachment to wine, which he wished to 
 defend by pleading in justification of his taste that N. Senhor 
 had chosen that liquor for his blood to be converted into. In 
 this irreverent manner do Romanists treat the mysteries of 
 their Faith. The gentlemen-guides are always addressed by 
 the title of Senhor, and they employ the appellation when 
 conversing with each other. Their beds are generally nothing 
 more than mere bundles of straw, spread side by side, on a 
 raised platform in the stable, with their burros and machos. 
 Every mule has its particular name, which is generally that of 
 the individual from whom it may have been purchased. One 
 of ours, a very fine animal, had received the high-sounding 
 appellation of " Frigata." 
 
 We left our estalagem at Palhaf a two hours before sunrise, 
 in order to profit by the coolness of the morning. This plan 
 should always be adopted by persons who travel through Por- 
 tugal in the summer, for soon after nine o'clock the power of 
 the sun becomes quite intolerable. Some persons prefer pur- 
 suing their journey through the night, but this mode, besides 
 depriving the traveller of the accomplishment of his purpose in 
 seeing and examining different objects on the route, is fre- 
 quently attended with considerable danger, and in the present 
 disturbed state of the country would be highly imprudent. A 
 basin of chicken broth, taken between three and four in the 
 
382 PORTUGAL 
 
 morning, we found by experience to be an excellent support 
 until breakfast-time. The lighter the food, at least under such 
 a climate as this, the better for the digestive organs, whose 
 powers besides are much weakened in most subjects by the 
 heat and the jolting motion of the mules. Wine should be 
 very sparingly used, and perhaps had better be altogether 
 avoided. Providence seems to have tempered her dealings 
 with the inhabitants of this sun-exhausted soil, in bbuntifully 
 according to them an abundance of the most juicy and cooling 
 fruits, of exquisite flavour, particularly delicious water-melons, 
 which are everywhere within the compass of the poorest pur- 
 chasers. The finest species of melons are served up at a des- 
 sert, already cut into slices, and often to the number of half a 
 dozen at once, and of different kinds. " Sobre melao — vinho 
 de tostao," is a well-known Portuguese adage. 
 
 After breakfasting in a hovel at Vendas Novas, we traversed 
 a deep sandy district through pine woods infested with ban- 
 ditti, and through extensive thickets of olive trees, the whole 
 of which, as far as we could observe, were affected with the 
 " ferrugem," or black rust, and bore no fruit. Wild rose- 
 mary, and two sorts of flowering myrtles, are found growing 
 in great luxuriance upon this line in the hedge-rows. The 
 inhabitants of Vendas Novas, as indeed of the whole line of 
 country from Aveiro up to Coimbra, and along the coast in the 
 neighbourhood of the marshes, are sadly scourged by inter- 
 mitting fevers, of which many melancholy instances presented 
 themselves to our notice on the route. The evidences, indeed, 
 of the prevailing disease in these parts, ague, are everywhere 
 discernible in the wan and sickly appearance of the peasants. 
 The valleys are not distinguished by any picturesque beauties ; 
 and the whole of our route this day would have been dull and 
 uninteresting in the extreme, had it not been for the occasional 
 views which we caught through openings in the forest of the 
 bold line to our left of the Serra de Alcoba, and afterwards 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 383 
 
 of the height of the ever-meraorable Busaco, crowned by a 
 monastery. Our principal guide, a fine athletic man, a native 
 of Vianna, had served in the Portuguese army when com- 
 manded by Beresford. He had been present at the battle 
 of Busaco, and had shared in every subsequent engagement in 
 the peninsula. He gasconaded a good deal about his own 
 personal exploits, and described in energetic language the 
 unprecedented valour of the Portuguese troops on the height 
 of Busaco, who cut to pieces twelve or fourteen regiments com- 
 posed of Massena's choicest troops ; perhaps our hero would 
 have adhered more closely to the truth had he said companies. 
 He declared solemnly, and we had no reason to doubt his 
 sincerity, that he was actually afraid to act under the com- 
 mand of a Portuguese officer, and that he had taken his 
 discharge only two years before he would have been entitled 
 by his term of service to a pension from the government, in 
 order that he might not be exposed to the cowardice and 
 tyranny of the native officers. The mild and conciliating 
 treatment shown by British officers to the Portuguese soldiers, 
 according to his unvarnished tale, at once ensured the popu- 
 larity of the former, and animated and confirmed the courage 
 of the latter. 
 
 " The road to Coimbra," according to the statement of 
 Colonel Jones, "which Massena selected, on his advance 
 from Almeida upon Lisbon, (in September, 1810,) passes, 
 at three leagues' distance from the town, over a high steep 
 mountain lying perpendicular to his line of march, called the 
 Serra de Busaco; being a branch of the large range of moun- 
 tains in the north called the Serra de Caramella. The Serra 
 de Busaco closes almost perpendicularly on the Mondego, and 
 on its opposite bank a mountainous branch of the Serra da 
 Estrella, called the Serra de Murcella, forms nearly a conti- 
 nuation of the line of Busaco, creating an obstacle on the 
 southern bank as great as the former on the northern. The 
 
884 PORTUGAL 
 
 invaders must pass over one or other of these Serras to pene- 
 trate into Estremadura. Lord Wellington having been made 
 acquainted vi^ith the direction of the enemy's march, crossed 
 the Mondego, and occupied Busaco with the vi^hole of the 
 allied forces, which were thus concentrated on the first favour- 
 able point that offered for opposing the untried Portuguese 
 levies to the veterans of France. 
 
 " The Serra of Busaco is 250 feet more elevated than the 
 ground in its front, with an ascent too difficult for cavalry to 
 act ; and as its height nearly precludes the use of artillery to 
 the assailants, it forms an almost inattackable position when 
 fully occupied ; but as the ridge is eight miles in extent, a 
 considerable army is required for that purpose. On gaining 
 the summit, Massena's troops had barely time to deploy, be- 
 fore they were charged down the hill by the divisions of 
 Generals Picton, Leith, and Craufurd, and in three quarters 
 of an hour from the commencement of the attack, had rejoined 
 their comrades in the plain below. No further serious attack 
 was attempted. The Portuguese troops which took part in 
 the action, behaved with spirit ; and confidence was thence- 
 forth placed on their exertions, which every subsequent event 
 strengthened, and after some further trial they ranked nearly 
 on an equality in arms with their insular brethren. But at 
 length Massena having succeeded in turning Lord Welling- 
 ton's position at Busaco, by taking a difficult road over the 
 Serra de Caramella, about six miles to its left, the British 
 commander, steadily adhering to his original intentions, fell 
 back through Coimbra, and as the enemy advanced, leisurely 
 retired before them. On entering Coimbra, the French Gene- 
 ral, fully believing, from there being no preparation made to 
 dispute the passage of the Mondego, that the English intended 
 to quit the country, pushed forward in the confidence of suc- 
 cess, though deprived, as he advanced, by the militia and 
 organized peasantry, of all communication beyond the circuit 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 385 
 
 of his cavalry-patroles. At Sobral he fir^t discovered the 
 formidable works which covered his antagonists," arrested his 
 further progress in the direction of Lisbon, and compelled him 
 to retire to the strong position of Santarem upon the Tagus. 
 
 The four principal cities of the Beira are Coimbra (Conim- 
 brica) ; Vizeu, situated on an eininence commanding a fertile 
 plain between the Mondego and the Vouga, and said to have 
 been founded in the time of Sertorius, under the name of 
 Visontium, and still possessing many remains of its Roman 
 masters; Guarda, built by Sancho I. on a mountain of the 
 Estrella range, and not far from the source of the Mondego, 
 commanding nearly the whole of the province of Beira ; and 
 Lamego, whose foundation is attributed to the people of Laco- 
 nia, and which is said to have been rebuilt subsequently by 
 Trajan, and to have been denominated Urbs Lamacenorum. 
 Almeida, in the jurisdiction of Pinhel, is considered the 
 strongest place in Portugal, and with the frontier fortress 
 Elvas, which is situated in the province of Alemtejo, alone 
 deserves the name of a fortified town ; for the remainder, Bra- 
 gan^a, Campo Mayor, Evora, Villa Vifoza, and Juramenha, 
 originally surrounded by weak defences, were permitted at the 
 period of the Peninsular War to fall into decay. 
 
 The highest chain of mountains in this central part of Por- 
 tugal is called the Serra da Estrella, and it forms the two 
 divisions of the province into the high and low Beira. The 
 culminant points of the range are the Cantaro Delgado, the 
 Mala5 da Serra, and between Guarda and Covilham the Can- 
 taro Magro and Gordo, and the Espinhasso de Cao. Near 
 Guarda the Serra forms an acute angle, and trends to the 
 south. 
 
 " The Serra de Estrella," according to Link, " is the Mons 
 
 Herminius of the ancients, and indisputably the most extensive 
 
 and lofty range of mountains in Poi-tugal ; for in winter it is 
 
 covered with snow frequently during four months and longer, 
 
 Pwt. 2 B 
 
38(J PORTUGAL 
 
 and rises from a mountain-plain which itself is considerably 
 high. Here all is granite without exception. It is a branch 
 of the high range of mountains that divide the two Castiles, 
 and form the Guadarrama, the Serra do Pico, and the Serra 
 da Gata, which traverses the kingdom of Leon. This chain of 
 mountains itself sends out branches to Coimbra and Lousao, 
 which then indeed only run off in great mountain-plains as far 
 as the Cabo da Roca. It lies in the direction of most of the 
 ranges of mountains of this peninsula, from north-east to south- 
 west. Though it appears higher than the Gerez, yet there 
 are no traces of wild goats ; and wolves, and other wild beasts, 
 are also very rare ; the cause of which is doubtless the number 
 of towns and villages in the neighbourhood, and the early 
 population and culture of the surrounding country. The 
 mountains of Spain and Portugal deceive the eye extremely 
 through their broken rocks and wild appearance, which give 
 them an Alpine character." 
 
 The scenery in the neighbourhood of Coimbra presents an 
 endless variety of beautiful points of view. The surrounding 
 hills are clothed with pine trees, oaks, cypress, olive, and 
 orange groves, which produce the best fruit in Portugal. It 
 is built in the form of an amphitheatre, upon the breast of a 
 hill commanding the Mondego, the older part of the town 
 occupying the steep acclivity on the western side, and the 
 more modern portion, the plain contiguous to the river. Its 
 original foundation is attributed to the Romans three hundred 
 years before the Christian aera, but at some distance from its 
 present site. That city was destroyed in an incursion of the 
 barbarians, one of whose kings, Ataris, laid the foundations of 
 a new town, more immediately upon the banks of the Munda, 
 or Mondego. The summits of the neighbouring heights, which 
 are rendered very productive by cultivation, are crowned with 
 convents and public buildings, which have a most imposing 
 appearance from the other side of the river, whence the ac- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. :J87 
 
 company ing yiew was taken. The episcopal school for the 
 education of ecclesiastics is connected by a handsome aque- 
 duct with the convents of Santa Anna, the Mariannes, and 
 Benedictine monasteries, and the palace of the university, once 
 the residence of the Portuguese sovereigns, distinguished by 
 an elevated square tower, whence a most extensive view is 
 obtained over the plain called Campo do Mondego, running 
 seven miles to within a short distance of the port of Figueira. 
 The greater part of the university buildings was added to the 
 royal palace by the Marquess of Pombal, at the period of his 
 introduction of a thorough reform into the system of studies 
 pursued at the place, and these therefore have a more modern 
 character. The interior of the town, and particularly the 
 streets of the upper portion of it, by no means correspond with 
 the expectations formed by the traveller, from a distance, of 
 its grandeur and extent, nor indeed with the appearance of 
 the principal street, by which he enters on the Aveiro side. 
 Its former occupation by its barbarian and Moorish sovereigns, 
 as a place of strength and defence, will account, however, for 
 the singularly narrow space left for passengers between the 
 lines of houses. 
 
 " The Mondego," to return again to the accurate German, 
 " in its wide bed winds along in front close to the hill, and 
 over it is a long stone bridge. The town forms a fine and 
 surprising view, in the midst of a charming country, which it 
 adorns with innumerable monasteries and churches along the 
 declivity of the mountain. The single broad street on the 
 plain is not inhabited by the rich, because it is deemed un- 
 healthy in summer. The Mondego is a bad river, for in 
 winter it inundates the country, and in summer, creeping 
 slowly along its bed, leaves marshes, which, as in all hot 
 countries, produce unwholesome vapours. In the distance, 
 on one side, are seen the high mountains of Lousao ; and on 
 the other, the high mountain of Busaco, whose solitary sum- 
 
388 PORTUGAL 
 
 mit is adoraed with a celebrated monastery of Carmelites, and 
 its quinta, with high shady cypresses. Opposite to Coimbra, 
 on the south bank of the river, is the Quinta das Lagrimas, or 
 Garden of Tears, with a fountain of the same name, which 
 rises at the foot of a hill shaded by fine Portuguese cypresses. 
 Tradition says that Ignes de Castro lived there, and was there 
 murdered. Ignes and Dom Pedro showed great taste in the 
 choice of this little spot, where Coimbra, with the charming 
 country around, displays itself to the eye. In the romantic 
 valley of the Mondego, the Quinta of Tears forms a spot over 
 which fancy seems to hover in all her sportiveness ; and if 
 poetry has ever sent forth a few sparks of radiance in Portu- 
 gal, it has been the offspring of this charming vale. The 
 mountains round Coimbra consist partly of a coarse-grained 
 sand-stone, alternated with a grey lime-stone. At a distance 
 began high slate-mountains, and here also a yellowish-grey 
 argillaceous slate changes to a sand-slate, and this to a mica- 
 slate, which ends in a granite. The flora of this part is. un- 
 commonly beautiful." 
 
 It was the period for holding the fair when we arrived at 
 Coimbra, and though the following day was the Sabbath, that 
 consideration had no influence in inducing the people to sus- 
 pend their employments and amusements; for the booths 
 erected in one of the broader streets were crowded with cus- 
 tomers until a very late hour, and the song and the dance, and 
 the sounds of the guitar, were heard throughout the night. 
 Our hotel, the Passo do Conde, was situated in the Rua do 
 Passo do Conde ; but we understood that we should have done 
 better in stopping at the Quaes das Ameias, which has higher 
 pretensions to accommodate travellers. Our rooms were so 
 small and close, that we could scarcely breathe in them ; they 
 had one small window each, and that opened upon a dunghill ; 
 and they swarmed with troublesome company of every de- 
 scription. Our experience would justify the assertion that in 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 389 
 
 summer Coimbra is a perfect furnace, and almost uninhabitable 
 in consequence ; and we are informed that the cold winds which 
 during the winter blow down the valley from the high range 
 of mountains to the north and east, render a residence here in 
 those months of the year extremely unpleasant and inconve- 
 nient. Our beds, luckily, were harder, if possible, than the 
 boards of the floor ; but in a hot country like Portugal this 
 was no novelty. The comfort of a soft bed under such 
 oppressive heat, would have been a real and insupportable 
 misery. We had brought letters of recommendation from our 
 valuable friends at Porto to Senhor Lemelle, a very learned 
 brother of the Benedictine convent, but unluckily it being 
 vacation time, he was absent. However, we were fortunate 
 in receiving the obliging attentions of Senhor Ferao, a doctor 
 in canon law, who accidentally met us a few hours after our 
 arrival ; and, observing that we were English travellers, with 
 the characteristic politeness of most classes in Portugal, vo- 
 lunteered his services on the following day in conducting 
 us over the museum, schools of philosophy, and other public 
 buildings of the university. 
 
 The university of Coimbra was founded during the reign of 
 the patriot sovereign, Denis, who was himself not only a 
 devoted patron of learning, but likewise a vernacular poet. 
 The life of this monarch was truly dedicated to the welfare of 
 his kingdom, and to the people over whom he was ordained to 
 rule ; yet amidst the duties which this solicitude imposed 
 upon him, he found leisure to cultivate poetry, and to instil 
 into the minds of his subjects that love of learning and science 
 of which he was himself a devoted admirer. In the year 1288 
 he had assembled at Mont^mor o Novo, the heads of the 
 principal monasteries and churches in the kingdom, in order 
 to apply to Pope Nicholas IV, for a special grant for an 
 university in Portugal. Accordingly, in the year 1290, a bull 
 was published for its establishment in Lisbon, and ample 
 
390 PORTUGAL 
 
 privileges were conceded to it. The object of the monarch 
 in instituting in his kingdom a fixed seat of learning, was to 
 remedy the great inconvenience experienced by its natives in 
 having to travel abroad, to learn from strangers that, in which 
 they might be instructed at home. 
 
 The university had been established in Lisbon eighteen 
 years, when Denis, representing to Pope Clement V. the 
 numerous disagreements and quarrels which arose between 
 the inhabitants and scholars, suggested that the city of Coim- 
 bra, from its delightful situation and the luxuriance of its neigh- 
 bourhood, whence abundant supplies could be drawn, as also 
 from its being situated in the centre of the kingdom, presented 
 a preferable place for the seat of an university. Clement, 
 readily admitting the suggestion of the Portuguese sovereign, 
 ordered the publication of a bull, 1308, to carry it into effect ; 
 and at the same time appropriated, for the support of the 
 university and its professors, the emoluments of six churches, 
 which he suppressed. 
 
 The students at Lisbon had been instructed in civil and 
 ecclesiastical law, logic, grammar, medicine, and music. Re- 
 ligion was confined to the care of the convents, where scholars 
 were received and educated. The Hebrew and Greek lan- 
 guages, and mathematics, had not as yet been introduced 
 among the studies of the university. 
 
 In the year 1388, Dom AfFonso IV., resolving to hold his 
 court at Coimbra, directed that the university establishment 
 should be removed to Lisbon, in order that the aff'airs of state, 
 and those attendant on the court, might not interfere with the 
 studies of the scholars. The business of the university was 
 transacted at Lisbon until 1354, when, by order of the same 
 king, it was again settled at Coimbra. Under the reign of 
 Dom Fernando, and in the year 1377, another change took 
 place, in consequence of the refusal to give lectures at 
 Coimbra, by some of the masters, who, at the request of the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 391 
 
 king, had visited Portugal. The university, therefore, conti- 
 nued at Lisbon for a considerable time, and enjoyed various 
 privileges, which were conferred upon it by the monarch. A 
 visible decline, however, at length became apparent, and this 
 was caused by the funds appropriated for the professors being 
 inadequate to the support of such scholars as were properly 
 qualified to hold those situations, and which in consequence 
 were filled by persons of inferior consideration and talent. 
 The scholars, disgusted with the proceedings, withdrew, and 
 the university gradually sunk into disrepute from 1440 until 
 1480. 
 
 On the succession of Emmanuel, in 1495, the ruined state 
 of the university was immediately taken into consideration, 
 and several statutes were in the following year enacted for its 
 government ; new schools were erected, and the number of 
 professors increased. It was reserved, however, for Dom 
 Joao III., who, on the death of Emmanuel, ascended the 
 Portuguese throne, to raise it to an enviable state of splendour 
 and excellence. Dom Joao, following the example of Denis, 
 no sooner attained the regal power, than he set about the 
 restoration of this celebrated seat of learning. Convinced 
 that Coimbra was preferable in every respect to Lisbon, he 
 broke up the establishment in the latter, and transferred it to 
 the former city. In order to secure its prosperity, and view- 
 ing prospectively as well as immediately the advantages to be 
 derived from its success, he founded several new colleges; 
 and at his own expense, invited the most able professors and 
 masters, native and foreign, which Europe eould then furnish, 
 for its complete re-establishment. The endeavours of this 
 monarch to ensure the prosperity; of the university, and his 
 having instituted the new colleges, have led in some instances 
 to the erroneous conclusion that he was its founder, and that 
 previous to his reign Coimbra possessed only public schools. 
 The absolute expressions contained in the Chronicle of Denis, 
 
392 PORTUGAL 
 
 and the authority of numerous writers, whose accuracy and 
 fidehty are undisputed, are quite sufficient to remove all 
 doubts on the subject, and to restore to King Denis the 
 honour of having founded the university of Coimbra. 
 
 Accompanied by Doctor Ferao, we first visited the public 
 library, situated on the western side of the square of the 
 university buildings. Over its portals are inscribed the two 
 following lines, which may serve as specimens of Coimbra 
 latinity, 
 
 Hanc augusta dedit libris Collimbria sedem, 
 XJt caput exovnet bibliotlieca suuni. 
 
 and on a tablet underneath, 
 
 Lusiade hanc vobis Sapientia condidit arcein, 
 Ductores libri ; miles et arma, labor. 
 
 It consists of three very large saloons, filled with books, 
 apparently of ancient date. As far indeed as our cursory view 
 enabled us to remark, the shelves seemed woefully deficient 
 in works of modern literature. It is opened every evening for 
 the use of the students immediately on the conclusion of the 
 public lectures. Those members of the university who have 
 attained to the grade of doctor in either of the faculties, have 
 small rooms set apart for them in the library to read in, no 
 books being permitted to be taken away. The library of the 
 convent of Benedictines can boast of a much finer collection 
 of books, and well deserves the notice of the traveller, for it is 
 more extensive, and contains works of more modern date. 
 The university gives sufficient employment to its press in 
 reprinting over and over again the books required by the 
 students ; but neither the type nor the paper used in getting 
 them up, would satisfy the discriminating taste of an English 
 academic ; indeed, this remark will apply tp the generality of 
 books published in Portugal. 
 
 The canon and civil law are now much attended to at 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 393 
 
 Coimbra, the demands of the different towns in the provinces 
 for legal officers, such as desembargadors, Juiz de Fora, &c. 
 occasioning the number of law students to bear always a very 
 large proportion to those proceeding in theology, medicine, 
 natural sciences, mathematics, and in the faculty of arts. 
 The medical students use French and English works, — prin- 
 cipally, we are told, the former ; they are generally sufficiently 
 acquainted with either language to read both with fluency. 
 The present number of academical students is said not to 
 exceed twelve hundred. The charge for their board and 
 lodging is from two to three pounds of our money by the 
 month ; and the whole of their annual expenses incurred in 
 eight or nine months' attendance upon the courses of public 
 lectures, need not amount to more than 30/. The lectures 
 generally are open without payment to all the students. The 
 professors' chairs are numerous, and it is asserted that, after 
 Paris, the establishments of Coimbra are, at the present day, 
 in all respects the most extensively provided with the neces- 
 sary apparatus required for demonstration in the several 
 schools of science. 
 
 The observatory is amply furnished with instruments, chiefly 
 of French manufacture. The view from the balustrade at the 
 western extremity of this building, in the direction of south- 
 west, across the Mondego, to the immense convent of Santa 
 Clara, extended upon the brow of the hill, which fronts the 
 bridge and the town ; and below it, of the Franciscan convent 
 and chapel, with the contiguous ruins of the former convent of 
 Santa' Clara, now nearly engulfed in the sands ; the olive-clad 
 heights above, the orange and lemon groves running below to 
 the Quinta das Lagrimas, and the Fonte dos Amores ; the 
 course of the Mondego winding down from between the hills 
 situated to the east, which are backed by the lofty range of 
 the Serra de Gois, in the distance beyond which again are 
 seen the summits of the Serra da Estrella ; and the nearer 
 
394 PORTUGAL 
 
 view of the three convents and the bishop's school or college, 
 crowning so many well-wooded heights ; of the aqueduct, and 
 the beautiful gardens of the Penedo da Saudade ; altogether 
 present to the traveller's contemplation a scene of unrivalled 
 beauty and magnificence. 
 
 The arches of the doors, and the curious mouldings of the 
 windows, in the older part of the university buildings, have 
 something of the Moorish character about them ; and though 
 not to be referred to so early a date, they still excite a consi- 
 derable degree of interest from their singularity and antiquity. 
 
 In the large hall, where the public examinations and dispu- 
 tations are held, — for it is a libel upon the students to say, 
 with Costigan and others, that they employ their time in 
 cutting palhitos for the English, — they chop logic for them- 
 selves, — there is a complete collection of the portraits of the 
 Portuguese sovereigns, including that of the patriot King 
 Denis, who transferred the university hither in 1308 from 
 Lisbon, where he had originally founded it ; — of John III., 
 who restored the academical institutions to Coimbra, 1547, 
 from Lisbon, whither they had been brought back from the 
 banks of the Mondego, and had remained during some of the 
 preceding reigns ; and of Joseph I. during whose possession 
 of the throne the Marquess Pombal effected the most impor- 
 tant reforms in the established system of instruction, adding 
 the faculties of mathematics and natural philosophy to those 
 already existing of theology, canonical and civil jurisprudence, 
 and medicine. The apartment in which the candidates for 
 the degree of doctor in either of the faculties undergo their last 
 examination in private, contains the portraits of all the rectors 
 of the university in succession for a number of years, sus- 
 pended on its walls, and a more grim, fear-inspiring set of 
 inquisitors cannot well be imagined, under whose awful and 
 unrelenting frown the most profound knowledge of the Pan- 
 dects, the Principia, Pathogmonics, and Pharmacology, might 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 395 
 
 well be supposed to lose all its substantial character, and pass 
 for nothing. 
 
 Professor Barjona, whose son is a practising physician at 
 Porto, has been employed during four or five years in arrang- 
 ing the minerals in the museum, and has at length completed 
 his task. Geology, however, it is apparent, has made no cor- 
 responding progress here with that of the sister universities in 
 England ; indeed, it would be right to say that the very term 
 itself is scarcely understood at Coimbra; and however mortify- 
 ing the avowal may be, yet most true it is that the learned in 
 this seat of science seem never yet to have heard of dangerous 
 descents into bears' caves ; discoveries of rats' teeth, together 
 with the album graecum and jaw-bones of hyenas; nor of re- 
 cent examinations of volcanic mountains ; nor of the remains 
 of mammoths and elephants extracted from the frozen regions 
 of the north ; nor of museums hideous with fossile reptiles, and 
 teeming with lizard tribes extinct, and happily by diluvian 
 action converted into stone ; but still, in their very negative 
 state of existence, alarming to the youthful student by the 
 polysyllabic denominations in which they are submitted to his 
 wondering inquiry. The stuflfed birds in this museum are in a 
 very bad state ; the specimens of dried and fossil fish are very 
 poor ; but the shells and minerals are both extensive and well 
 arranged. It contains an "Aborto," which has its eyes 
 placed high on the forehead, and in other particulars is cha- 
 racterised by a simious appearance. In the natural philosophy 
 school, which consists of three very large apartments, all most 
 liberally supplied with apparatus for the professors, we were 
 shown the largest magnet known in Europe. 
 
 Upon the abolition of the order of Jesuits in Portugal, their 
 colleges and extensive properties were appropriated to the uses 
 of the university. Their beautiful church, situated in the 
 Praipa da Feira, was employed for some time as the cathedral, 
 the S^, a most interesting Gothic pile of great antiquity, and 
 
396 PORTUGAL 
 
 containing many ancient and curious tombs, being closed in con- 
 sequence ; and a part of their convent became the public hos- 
 pital of the town, under the inspection of the university faculty 
 of medicine. The museum of w^hich we have been speaking, 
 the public laboratory, and the school of anatomy, are erected 
 upon the ground adjoining the cathedral, and are detached 
 from the Paifos Reaes das Escolas. ■ The College of Arts, 
 which likewise formerly belonged to the Jesuits, is a remark- 
 ably handsome building. The botanical garden is not yet 
 completed, but includes a sufficient area to contain eventually 
 a very large collection of plants. The large monastery of 
 Santa Cruz, in the lower part of the town, is more interesting 
 in consequence of containing the remains of Alphonso Henri- 
 quez and Sancho I., than on account of any beauty or cor- 
 rectness in its pretensions to be classed as a Gothic edifice. 
 The mausoleum of the former sovereign was erected by Em- 
 manuel. This convent, with a most delightful garden, belongs 
 to the Augustine friars, who, in addition to numerous import- 
 ant privileges, enjoy the right of appointing their Prior to the 
 office of Chancellor of the university, whose duty it is to su- 
 perintend all matters of learning, to preside at the examina- 
 tions of students, and to confer the degree of doctor in all the 
 different faculties. Coimbra possesses several very old houses 
 extremely interesting to the antiquarian ; but they are found 
 out with difficulty, being hid in dirty lanes. From one of 
 them, according to report, a subterranean passage runs under 
 the town to the river side, and is supposed to have been 
 intended by its owner as a private way for escape in case of 
 necessity. 
 
 Link describes the university as being "under the govern- 
 ment of a Rector (Reytor) nominated by the king, but not 
 from among the, members of the academy. He is generally 
 a priest, and from this office is promoted to be a bishop ; being 
 only appointed for three years, but after the expiration of that 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 397 
 
 period, almost always continued till another promotion. Above 
 him is the Reformator. The Rector presides in the Concelho 
 dos Decanos, consisting of the Dean of Faculty, two Fiscals or 
 Syndicos, and their Secretary ; which council has jurisdiction 
 over every thing relating to the academy. All transactions 
 relative to the money and property of this very rich university, 
 belong to an auxiliary council of finance, called Junta da 
 Fazenda, consisting of three deputies, a professor of theology, 
 of law, and of calculation, besides the treasurer and a clerk. 
 Only one course of lectures is gone through in the year. They 
 begin in autumn, and after the conclusion of the session in the 
 month of May, follow the public examinations, to which every 
 one must submit till the month of July ; after which follow 
 about three months of vacation. The public examinations are 
 in Portuguese, and very severe. Both the students and the 
 tutors wear a long black plain cloak, without sleeves, bound 
 behind with bands, and adorned before from the neck to the 
 foot with two rows of buttons set on very thick. The students 
 always go bare-headed, even in the burning heat of the sun ; 
 the tutors and graduates only wearing a black cap." 
 
 No student is permitted to attend a course of lectures in 
 either of the faculties without having first undergone one year 
 of preparatory study in the Royal College of Arts at Coimbra, 
 or at least having been pronounced, upon examination by the 
 professor, competent to commence in any particular faculty. 
 In theology the student has to go through courses of lectures 
 during the terms of five successive years, either in the uni- 
 versity, or in the convent, to which he may be attached ; but 
 exclusively in the university, if he aspires to one of the pro- 
 fessor's chairs in this faculty. The same extent of time is 
 prescribed for the attendance upon lectures of those persons 
 who proceed in the canon and civil law. Those who look to 
 inferior appointments in the magistracy, and to the bar, take 
 merely the degree of Bacharel Formado ; but to obtain the 
 
398 PORTUGAL 
 
 grade of doctor in either of these faculties, a sixth year of 
 study must be completed, public exercises performed, and the 
 Exame Privado undergone. In the faculty of medicine, an 
 attendance during eight years upon the public lectures is re- 
 quired, of which geometry and algebra form a part, and an 
 additional year is imposed upon those who seek the distinction 
 of doctor in this faculty. It has been questioned whether 
 a very superficial knowledge of the exact sciences might not 
 be quite sufficient for those who are to devote themselves to 
 the divine art of healing, and it is said, moreover, that the 
 extent of the Coimbra hospital is not by any means sufficient 
 for the purposes of clinical lectures, and that, in this respect, 
 in anatomy, and midwifery also, the system is faulty, being 
 more theoretical than practical. Those who are destined 
 for the dispensary attend a course of four years' lectures 
 in botany and chymistry, and during the two last years of 
 their academical studies, practise the art of preparing medi- 
 cines in the laboratory attached to the hospital of the uni- 
 versity. 
 
 For a degree in the mathematics four years are required, 
 the higher branches being reserved for the fourth, and the 
 same term likewise in the faculty of " Philosophia Natural," 
 which includes zoology, mineralogy, botany, agriculture, chy- 
 mistry, and a certain extent in the mathematics, with a view 
 to the accurate knowledge of quantities. An acquaintance 
 with metallurgy is expected in those who would proceed to 
 the higher grades of licentiate or of doctor in this faculty. 
 The appointments of the several professors, according to their 
 standing and rank in the university, are represented to be at 
 present very respectable, and allowances are said to be fur- 
 ther made for the support of their tables. There are, besides, 
 stations of dignity and emolument in the ecclesiastical and civil 
 departments, exclusively reserved as rewards for the labours 
 of the professors in the task of public instruction ; indeed, a 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 399 
 
 high degree in the university is the indispensable qualification 
 for advancement to the higher stations in the magistracy as 
 well as to episcopal rank. 
 
 The university of Coimbra is principally indebted to the 
 reform introduced by the Marquess Pombal for whatever is 
 good, wise, and liberal in its present system ; but we must 
 admit, at the same time, that it is by no means yet arrived at 
 that state of effective utility to the country, which it might be 
 carried to under the fostering protection of a free and en- 
 lightened government, willing to sacrifice ancient prejudices to 
 the uncontrouled advancement of science. It is true, ob- 
 served a Portuguese to me the other day, and it cannot be de- 
 nied, that nearly all the men of rank and authority in Portugal 
 are destitute of character, and that so long as the established 
 system of education receives no improvement, no essential 
 difference can be expected in the moral and intellectual con- 
 dition of either the higher or lower classes of the people. Few 
 persons of very comprehensive acquirements were found to 
 undertake the direction of public affairs at the commencement 
 of the constitutional system in 1820. The wretched policy 
 pursued in all matters by the members of the first Cortes, 
 might very fairly be attributed to a defect in the system of 
 education. Matters, however, were much worse previous to 
 the alterations introduced in 1773. 
 
 At the period of Pombal's personal visit to Coimbra, autho- 
 rised by his sovereign to carry on the reform with vigour, Por- 
 tugal was so much occupied with the flourishing state of its 
 trade, that little care was bestowed on the advancement of 
 letters. That able statesman, perceiving the necessity of 
 renovating the public schools, commenced the important task 
 at Coimbra, and considering the character and circumstances 
 of the times, the still unextinguished power of the priesthood, 
 and the domineering influence of the Jesuits at court and 
 throughout the kingdom, he effected his grand design in a 
 
400 PORTUGAL 
 
 manner as masterly and judicious, as the attempt was unpo- 
 pular and hazardous. 
 
 Before his improvements were admitted, the greater part of 
 the students immediately after making their entries, (" matri- 
 culas,") at the commencement of an academical year retired 
 to their own homes, and did not return to Coimbra until the 
 approaching term of their " exames." Certificates were never 
 refused to them as " good students," and thus the several 
 degrees of Bacharel, Licenciado, and Doutor, were conferred 
 upon candidates without any reference to their acquirements. 
 At this time likewise there was no course of mathematics at 
 Coimbra, nor of practical philosophy ; nor was there such a 
 department as a chymical laboratory, nor a botanical garden, 
 nor an observatory, nor a museum. Medicine was still in its 
 infancy, and a very learned professor, an Englishman, of the 
 nameofGoold, who resided at that time in Porto, was engaged 
 to give instructions at Coimbra in the first rudiments of this 
 science. The Portuguese themselves declare that, at present, 
 in pharmacy, surgery, and in the treatment of diseases, the 
 university of Coimbra is behindhand neither with the schools 
 of Pavia, Florence, Montpellier, Paris, nor with those of 
 Dublin, Edinburgh, or London. As a proof of the truth of this 
 assertion, they say that now English practitioners are little 
 thought of at Lisbon and Porto, and that their services are 
 almost exclusively confined to British residents, the Portuguese 
 seldom consulting them ; whereas, before the introduction of 
 Pombal's reform, no one was supposed to have any therapeutic 
 knowledge but Englishmen. The study of the Greek language 
 was introduced at Coimbra by a British clergyman of the 
 name of Birmingham ; at the same time a school of mathe- 
 matics was likewise opened by another Englishman, Colonel 
 Ferrier, attached to the Portuguese service, chiefly for mili- 
 tary students, at Valenjfa do Minho. Thus, without arro- 
 gance, we may assume that the English have contributed in 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 401 
 
 no small degree to the restoration of learning and science in 
 Portugal. 
 
 The mantilla worn by the females of Coimbra differs from 
 that seen at Porto in having a pointed projection over the 
 forehead. 
 
 The Mondego has now subsided into a very narrow 
 and shallow channel, leaving scarcely sufficient depth of 
 water for boats to pass to and from the town. We have 
 observed several large flat-bottomed barques, laden with mer- 
 chandize, dragged up the river with difficulty by two men, 
 and this even with the assistance of a large sail filled by a 
 favouring gale. A few wretched-looking huts are erected on 
 the edge of the river for the accommodation of bathers, where 
 we found ourselves at the early hour of four in the morning, 
 surrounded by women either employed in washing, or in filling- 
 large earthen pitchers with water for domestic purposes. In 
 winter the river runs completely over the bridge, and aper- 
 tures are accordingly made in the stone-work of the balus- 
 trades to allow the water to pass through. It is said that the 
 present bridge is the third which has been built, and that it is 
 placed immediately over the two others, which were succes- 
 sively covered by the sands. The bed of the Mondego is 
 continually rising, and the same fate which the former bridges 
 experienced seems to threaten the present structure at no re- 
 mote distance of time. The dry bed of the river near the left 
 bank forms the Corso, where families take their morning and 
 evening exercise on horseback. No idea can be conceived, 
 we have been told, of the violent torrent of the Mondego 
 when swollen by the winter rains and tributary mountain- 
 streams, for it then entirely covers large surfaces of cultivable 
 soil on either side of its impetuous course with sand and 
 round stones, and thus annually creates greater impediments 
 to the facilities of navigation. On the south bank of the Mon- 
 dego, where we now arrived, and to the left of the bridge, 
 Port. 2 c 
 
402 PORTUGAL 
 
 is seen the old church of Santa Clara half buried in the 
 sands brought down from the upper country in the course of 
 ages. The convent is supposed to be entirely buried, and this 
 may be true, for a very small portion of its walls are now 
 visible. 
 
 Passing below the height, on which the beautiful modern 
 convent of Santa Clara is situated, and leaving the monastery 
 and church of the Franciscans also to the right, and crossing 
 the Feitoria, we made our way to a sequestered spot at the 
 back of the neighbouring Quinta das Lagrimas, the Fonte dos 
 Amores, the interesting circumstances connected with which 
 celebrated place form the subject of the affecting episode of 
 Ignes de Castro, introduced by Camoens into the third book 
 of his Lusiad. 
 
 The Quinta das Lagrimas was the residence of the an- 
 cestors of Donna Ignes, but their descendants have not been 
 very careful to preserve from the rude hand of time so pre- 
 cious a relic of antiquity ; and had it not been for the attach- 
 ment of the Coimbra students, or rather their veneration for 
 the Relligio loci, the Fonte dos Amores itself would long since 
 have disappeared with the umbrageous cypresses by which it 
 is surrounded. The Portuguese cypresses are magnificent, 
 and at a distance they may be mistaken for the cedars of 
 Lebanon. These beautiful trees, and a tablet, placed over the 
 source! by order of General Trant, on which is engraved a 
 stanza of the Lusiad alluding to the name of the fountain, are 
 all that now remain to point out to the traveller the scene of 
 Ignes's affection and death. The water runs over a bed of 
 marble, which is marked with red spots, and these the cre- 
 dulous admirers of the place believe to be nothing less than 
 the stains of blood shed by her cruel murderers. Camoens 
 describes the horrid deed in language at once simple and 
 touching, and which does not lose in the translation of 
 Mickle :— 
 
Oj', '(WS'l'iliO, 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 403 
 
 Thus Igues, while her eyes to heaven appeal, 
 
 Kesigns her bosom to the murdering steel. 
 
 That snowy neck, whose matchless form sustained 
 
 The loveliest face where all the graces reigned, 
 
 That snowy neck was stained with spouting gore ; 
 
 A nother sword her lovely bosom tore ; 
 
 The flowers that glistened with her tears bedewed. 
 
 Now shrunk and languished with her blood imbrued. 
 
 As when a rose, ere while of bloom so gay, 
 
 Thrown from the careless virgin's breast away. 
 
 Lies faded on the plain, the living red. 
 
 The snowy white, and all its fragrance fled — 
 
 So from her cheeks the roses died away. 
 
 And pale in death the beauteous Ignes lay. 
 
 ■»«»«•* 
 
 Nor less the wild nymphs of Mondego's groves 
 Bewailed the memory of her hapless loves ; 
 Her griefs they wept, and to a plaintive rill 
 Transformed their tears, which weeps and murmurs still. 
 To give immortal pity to her woe. 
 They taught the riv'let through her bowers to flow ; 
 And still through violet beds the fountain pours 
 Its plaintive wailings . 
 
 Donna Ignes de Castro, as Mickle relates in the historical 
 introduction to his beautiful translation of the Lusitanian poet, 
 was the daughter of a Spanish nobleman, who took refuge from 
 the tyrannical rule of his own sovereign at the court of Portu- 
 gal, in the reign of Alphonso IV. Don Pedro, this monarch's 
 eldest son, enamoured of the beauty and accomplishments of 
 the fair Castilian, contracted a secret marriage with her. His 
 conjugal fidelity was not less remarkable than the ardour of 
 his passion. Afraid, however, of his father's resentment, the 
 severity of whose temper he well knew, his intercourse with 
 his bride was private, and passed for some time unnoticed, as 
 merely an affair of gallantry. Several of the Castilian nobi- 
 lity at this period followed the example of the father of Ignes, 
 by seeking protection from the ruffian hands of Philip within 
 
404 PORTUGAL 
 
 the territory of Portugal, and were hospitably received by 
 Pedro through the influence of Ignes. A thousand evils were 
 foreseen by Alphonso's courtiers in this attachment of Pedro 
 to the Castilian refugees, and no opportunity was lost by them 
 of exciting the king's suspicions, of his son's political motives, 
 and his resentment against his unfortunate wife. 
 
 Persuaded by her enemies that the death of Ignes de Castro 
 was necessary to the welfare of the state, Alphonso took a 
 journey to Coimbra, that he might see the lady during the 
 absence of the prince on a hunting party. Donna Ignes, with 
 her children, threw herself at his feet, and his heart relented 
 when he beheld the distress of the beauteous suppliant ; but 
 his three counsellors, Pedro Coelho, Alvaro Gongalez, and 
 Diego Pacheco, reproaching him for his disregard of the inter- 
 ests of his kingdom, he relapsed into his former resolution. 
 She was dragged from his presence, and brutally murdered by 
 Coelho and his two associates, who immediately presented 
 their daggers to the king, reeking with the innocent blood of 
 the princess. Alphonso openly avowed this horrid assassina- 
 tion, as if he had not made himself a party to a deed which 
 would heap eternal disgrace upon his memory. 
 
 When Don Pedro was informed of the death of his beloved 
 Ignes, he was transported into the most violent fury. He took 
 up arms against his father, and soon laid waste the country 
 between the Minho and the Douro ; but, through the interpo- 
 sition of the queen and the archbishop of Braga, the prince 
 was at length softened, and the further horrors of civil war 
 suspended. The injury which the prince had received, was 
 not, however, to be effaced from his memory by the cold 
 reconciliation effected between himself and his father ; and he 
 still continued to discover the strongest marks of affection and 
 grief. Upon his succession to the crown, his first act was a 
 treaty with the King of Castile for the mutual surrender of 
 refugee malefactors. Two of the murderers of Ignes were 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 403 
 
 sent prisoners accordingly to Pedro, who were put to death 
 under the most exqtiisite tortures, having been personally 
 reviled and struck by the injured lover. Pacheco escaped. 
 An assembly of the states was then summoned at Cantanedes, 
 where Pedro solemnly swore upon the Gospels to the truth of 
 his secret espousals with Donna Ignes, by a dispensation from 
 Rome, at Braganf a ; and the pope's bull was published with 
 due formality. Her body was raised from the grave, attired 
 in splendid regalia, placed on a magnificent throne, and 
 crowned queen of Portugal, 
 
 For such the zeal her princely lover bore, 
 Her breathless corse the crown of Lisboa wore ; 
 
 the nobility did homage before her skeleton, and kissed the 
 bones of her hands. The royal corpse was then interred in 
 the monastery of Alcobaf a with a pomp before unknown in 
 Portugal, and with all the honours which became her rank of 
 queen. Her monument is still extarit there in a chapel of 
 royal sepulture, and her recumbent statue bears the diadern 
 and royal robe. 
 
 The English tragedy of " Elvira," founded upon the narra- 
 tive of the hapless attachment of Ignes de Castro and Don 
 Pedro, and closely copied from the declamatory and bombastic 
 French of De la Motte, was written by Mr. Mallet, and dedi- 
 cated with a most fulsome political address, in 1762, to Lord 
 Bute. It drags its drowsy length along through five tedious 
 acts. The Spanish drama on this subject is entitled " Reynar 
 despues de morir," and is considered to be more faithful to 
 nature and Camoens, than the English, French, German, or 
 even Portuguese tragedies, representing the same circum- 
 stances. The four following lines from Camoens's Lusiad de- 
 scribing the fond attachment of Pedro to Ignes, are considered 
 by the Portuguese to be untranslatably beautiful, — 
 
40G PORTUGAL 
 
 De noite em doces sonhos que mentiam, 
 De dia em pensamentos que voavam ; 
 E quanto em fim cuidava, e quanto via, 
 Eram tudo memorias de alegria ; 
 
 which, however, Mickle thus successfully attempts in English : 
 
 By night his slumbers bring thee to his arms. 
 By day his thoughts still wander o'er thy charms ; 
 By night, by day, each thought thy loves employ, 
 Each thought the memory or the hope of joy. 
 
 The country between Condeixa and Coimbra is so fertile, 
 well-watered, and cultivated, that it is called the fruit-basket 
 of Portugal. In the lower part of the town an inferior sort of 
 pottery is made, and others of red earthenware, the clay for 
 which, we are informed, is brought from a place called Alcar- 
 razas. This red ware is made both glazed and unglazed. In 
 Portugal as well as in Spain, an excellent method is used to 
 keep water and other liquors cool in the summer. Earthen 
 vessels are made of clay, containing lime and iron, so as to be 
 very porous, but without glazing. These vessels, which are 
 called Pucaros, or Alcarrazes, suffer the moisture to pervade 
 their substance in the form of a fine dew, which is continually 
 evaporating and producing cold. 
 
 A high road leads from Coimbra to Ponte da Murcella, 
 where the rebels were recently frustrated in their intended 
 attack upon Coimbra, after which they wandered about on the 
 Estrada Nova que passa para Cima das Serras de Estrella. 
 A fine route likewise runs directly hence by Vizeu to Celorico, 
 Guarda, Pinhel, Almeida, the Spanish frontier, and Ciudad 
 Rodrigo. Coimbra became lately, as we have already stated, 
 the head-quarters of the British troops under the command of 
 Sir W- Clinton, and in fact was the most northern point occu- 
 pied by our army as a defence against Spanish aggression on 
 Portuguese independence. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 407 
 
 Leaving Coimljra, we followed the course of the Mondego, 
 on our way to Figueira, for about four leagues to Monte Mor 
 'o Velho, (so called to distinguish it from Monte Mor o Novo 
 de las Manzanas, situated about two leagues and a half from 
 Evora, in the province of Alemtejo,) by Alcida and Rio Frio, 
 traversing the vast plain called the Campo do Mondego. The 
 road runs on the right bank of the river on a causeway ele- 
 vated a few feet above it, and which in winter is generally 
 impassable, being covered, as well as the greater part of the 
 surrounding country, by the overflowing torrent of the Mon- 
 dego. This plain is cultivated with maize, abobras or gourds, 
 beans, and other vegetables, and extends twenty-eight miles 
 in length in the direction of Figueira, and upon an average 
 may be nearly one mile and a half in breadth from the banks 
 of the river to the range of high grounds which bound it to the 
 north-north-west. Small huts composed of branches are 
 erected here and there, in which the farmer watches his crops, 
 and frequently for nights together accompanied by his whole 
 family. Water for the vegetables is procured by wheels of 
 simple construction from pits opened expressly for the purpose, 
 and into which the river percolates through the gravelly or 
 stony soil. Corn forms the wealth of this part of the country. 
 In the plain few fixed habitations are seen ; but on the left 
 bank of the Mondego there are numerous towns, and that dis- 
 trict appears to be very populous. 
 
 The annual inundations of the Mondego during the winter 
 season, like the periodical overflowings of the Nile, fertilize 
 and enrich this widely extended plain. At that time, we are 
 told that immense quantities of wild-fowl congregate here, and 
 are easily taken, the water spread over the soil never exceed- 
 ing the depth of four or five feet at the utmost. A small boat 
 with two men, and one gun, which turns upon a swivel, are 
 employed in their capture, much in the same way as upon 
 the Southampton water, described with so much sportsman- 
 
408 PORTUGAL 
 
 like skill and experience by Colonel Hawker. Lampreys, 
 saveis, which is a sort of suin, and other fresh-water fish 
 afford an abundant supply of nutritious food to the inhabitants 
 of the district bordering upon the Campo. The first floors of 
 the houses in Monte Mor 'o Velho are frequently covered 
 with water in the winter months. On the north-east bank of 
 the Mondego there are immense herds of a small breed of 
 cattle, which pass the autumn and early part of the winter 
 here, feeding on the scanty herbage left by the farmer's sickle. 
 Their instinctive intelligence in escaping the velocity of the 
 currents, and fording over the more shallow parts to some 
 pasturage on an elevated and perhaps insulated spot, where 
 they await the subsiding of the waters, is represented as 
 something very extraordinary. Pasturage towards the end of 
 the summer is deficient in the higher districts, which are con- 
 tiguous, and then their inhabitants, that is, after the maize has 
 been reaped off" the ground, have a general common right, by 
 long prescription, to send their herds down for the sake of 
 pasture into the plain of the Mondego until the commence- 
 ment of the following spring, each beast being marked with, 
 its owner's name. Horses are likewise turned out on the 
 plain at the same period. Guards appointed by common con- 
 sent are left to watch over the safety of these herds of cattle 
 during the prevalence of floods, and to rescue them, should 
 any sudden irruption of the waters take place, and for this; 
 purpose boats are kept in constant readiness. At the begin- 
 ning of spring, when the inundations have altogether receded, 
 and the farmer is preparing to resume his labours, and to get; 
 the soil into a fit state to receive the seed, a general assem- 
 blage of the owners of the animals takes place, and with the 
 aid of the guardians, a separation of them is made according, 
 to their marks, and they are conducted back to the scanty 
 pastures of the hill country until the ensuing autumn. 
 
 On our arrival near Monte Mor, another proof was afforded 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 409 
 
 us of the innate kindness and politeness of the Portuguese. 
 A Padre journeying down to Figueira for the benefit of sea- 
 bathing, had entered into conversation with us on the road, 
 and having preceded us half an-hour, late in the evening, 
 when the new moon was about to set, and the stars were 
 shedding but a dim uncertain light, fearing some accident 
 might happen to us, awaited our arrival near the branches of 
 the Mondego, four of which we had to cross to reach the town 
 of Monte Mor. Our guides were not acquainted with the 
 fords, and the usual road had been broken up, and was conse- 
 quently impassable. We should have been placed in consi- 
 derable peril, had it not been for the friendly watchfulness of 
 the good Padre, who conducted us safely to our Estalagem. 
 As it was, we found it no very pleasant termination to a hot 
 ride to plunge our mules into the water girth-deep, between 
 nine and ten before midnight. These animals could with 
 difficulty be persuaded, by whip and spur, that our honest 
 intentions were not to pass the night in company with the 
 water-nymphs inhabiting these parts of the Mondego. Monte 
 Mor was quite awakened out of its sleep by the concert of 
 music kept up between our machos, which united in express- 
 ing their loud but inharmonious approbation upon gaining 
 terra firma. 
 
 The Estalagem at Monte Mor offered no comforts to the 
 travellers in return for their having hazarded their lives in 
 crossing the waters to reach it. In the midst of every misery 
 and deficiency, when we had scarcely stretched ourselves in 
 our cloaks on the boards, a party of young men, returning 
 from some private dramatic performances, came under pur 
 windows, and not finding immediate admission into the house, 
 filled up the interval by re-acting, ore rotundo, some of the 
 noisier scenes in their evening's entertainment. When at 
 length received within the walls, the party rushed up stairs^ 
 and performed the tragic part of tumbling over the recumbent 
 
410 PORTUGAL 
 
 travellers into their own dlosets ; and it was some time before 
 we could persuade these troublesome actors in real life, that 
 they had already, to our infinite annoyance, strutted and fretted 
 far more than the extent of their hour. 
 
 The Moorish castle at Monte Mor, now a splendid pile of 
 ruins, and a very interesting specimen of Moorish architecture, 
 is the property of the municipality of the town. Like the 
 palace at Coimbra, it is proudly seated on an insulated and 
 elevated height, overlooking the Campo do Mondego. The 
 best view of these extensive remains is obtained upon the 
 south-west side, in passing from the modern town to reach the 
 causeway leading on to the Figueira road, which we found 
 bad, dull, and uninteresting. In the hedges we observed 
 aloes in blossom, the cactus opuntia, pomegranates, arbutus, 
 laurustinus, olive plants, luxuriant vines, gum-cistus, and um- 
 brageous cork trees. 
 
 The Bernardine and Cruzos monks, who were living in the 
 old town of Monte Mor at the time it was besieged by the 
 Moors, sallied forth with the utmost secresy during the night, 
 by a circuitous route, under the conduct of the Abbade Joao, 
 leaving behind them those inhabitants, old men and male 
 children, who were incapable of bearing arms, and their fires 
 still burning in order to deceive their assailants; — having, 
 however, first cut the throats of their females, in order that 
 they might not be exposed to the brutal lust of the Moors. 
 Coming unexpectedly upon the intrenchments of their enemies, 
 they soon threw them into confusion ; and the Moors, owing 
 to their not being able to distinguish friend from foe, committed 
 the greater slaughter upon the men of their own body. The 
 abbade having nearly demolished the foe, returned in triumph 
 to the town, and, of course, found all the women and female 
 children alive, with only red marks round their throats, where 
 the knife had executed its office in occasioning a slight sepa- 
 ration between their unhappy heads and bodies. Thence- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 411 
 
 forth feudal rights, honors, dignities, and territorial emolu- 
 ments, fell to the share of these monastic warriors ; and now 
 their descendants plunder and oppress the posterity of those 
 whom their predecessors had delivered from the less galling 
 yoke of the Moors. 
 
 PORTUGUESE FOUNTAIN. 
 
412 PORTUGAL 
 
 LETTER XV. 
 
 But let my due feet never fail 
 
 To walk the studious cloisters pale. 
 
 And love the high embovtred roof. 
 
 With antique pillars massy proof; 
 
 And storied windows richly dight, 
 
 Casting a dim religious light. 
 
 There let the pealing organ blow 
 
 To the full- voiced quire below. 
 
 In service high and anthems clear. 
 
 As may with sweetness through mine ear 
 
 Dissolve me into ecstasies. 
 
 And bring all heaven before mine eyes. 
 
 Il Penseroso. 
 
 Alcobapa, 1827. 
 
 FiGUEiKA DA Foz DO MoNDEGo IS a large and increasing 
 market-town, situated on the northern bank of the river Mon- 
 dego, where it empties itself into the sea, nearly opposite to 
 Lavos and Penas. Its population may be estimated at ten or 
 eleven thousand souls. The wines produced in the province 
 of Beira, to the north and east of the Mondego, are brought 
 down hither for exportation, and hence the business and 
 wealth of the place. In addition to wines, it exports likewise 
 salt, oil, dried fruits, and immense quantities of oranges. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 413 
 
 Being altogether a modern town, its houses are better built 
 and handsomer, and appear much cleaner than those which 
 we have hitherto seen in our tour. There is a private ware- 
 house here, under the superintendence of our host, a wealthy 
 and a most worthy merchant, long established in the Beira 
 wine-trade. It is capable of containing nearly three thousand 
 pipes of wine, and was built at an expense of two thousand 
 pounds, in a style so solid and perfect as to do the architect 
 infinite credit. On the banks of the Thames, such a structure 
 would not have cost Ifess than twelve thousand pounds. 
 
 The province of Beira produces considerable quantities of 
 corn, and of a white wine having some resemblance to sherry ; 
 but in consequence of the grapes not being properly supported 
 above the soil, the Figueira white wine has the taste of clay. 
 At this moment two large vessels of£ the bar are taking in 
 cargoes of it for Bahia and Perhambuco ; however, the expor- 
 tations to the north of Europe, London, a;nd Hamburgh, are 
 very inconsiderable. The cultivation of the vines in this pro- 
 vince differs from that followed in the wine district of the 
 Douro ; for here they are pruned only a very short time before 
 they vegetate ; whereas, about Pezo da Regoa, the super- 
 abundant branches are cut off" almost immediately after the 
 fruit has been gathered for the press. Wheat is more abun- 
 dantly produced in the south of Portugal, where the ground is 
 better adapted for its growth than for any other griain ; and 
 the produce of its vineyards is justly considered excellent. 
 
 With respect to the classification of the Douro wines, it 
 may be important to repeat that four classes are generally 
 enumerated ; the first, for exportation, called Feitoria ; the 
 second, Separado ; thie third, Ramo, for wine taverns, whence 
 possibly the origin of the branch of a tree being used to mark 
 a place where wines are sold ; and the fourth, Refugado, 
 which is reserved^' as of inferior quality, for the distillation of 
 brandy. It is generally remarked that the steep banks of the 
 
414 PORTUGAL 
 
 Douro yield a wine of high flavour, but of low or light colour ; 
 and the Costa Riva, or high wine-country, a wine more highly 
 coloured, but not so exquisite in taste. Separado wines may 
 be regarded as of a completely false classification, being very 
 frequently as good in quality as the Feitcria wines ; but since 
 they are not allowed to be exported to England direct, the 
 Porto merchant has to send them first to Hamburgh, whence 
 they are reshipped to the port of London. 
 
 The bathing at Figueira is excellent, and numerous lodging- 
 houses have been recently erected for the accommodation of 
 visitors, who frequently come from considerable distances in 
 the upper parts of the provinces, to pass the summer months 
 on this part of the coast. The remains of an old castle at 
 Buarcos, reputed to be Moorish, and immediately overhanging 
 the town, formed the interesting object of one of our afternoon 
 rides ; but it owes more to historical recollections than to its 
 extent. Buarcos is nothing better than an old fishing town, 
 situated a little to the west of Figueira. The exhausted coal- 
 mine is in the mountain, which rises boldly at the back of the 
 town, from whose lofty summit we enjoyed a magnificent view 
 over the bay and the adjoining country, abounding with vine- 
 yards to the very edge of the shore, some of which we visited 
 and found bearing a luxuriant crop of grapes. Out of an 
 English West-India fleet, outward bound, and consisting of 
 one hundred ships, forty-eight were wrecked in 1 804, between 
 the Barra d'Aveiro and the Monte de Buarcos, or Cabo do 
 Mondego, including an extent of coast of about four leagues. 
 Upon this occasion our host distinguished himself by his cou- 
 rage and hospitality. He had himself been a sailor in early 
 life. Undaunted by the dangerous surf, he plunged into the 
 waves, and being a good swimmer, rescued numbers from a 
 watery grave by his own individual strength and presence of 
 mind ; and filled his hospitable mansion with as many of the 
 unfortunate sufferers as it would hold. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 415 
 
 The boats on this part of the coast are beautifully curved at 
 either extremity, like an Indian proa, to enable them to cut 
 their way through the violent surfs occasioned by the heavy 
 westerly winds, which generally commence about the feast of 
 St. Simon, in the latter end of October, or beginning of No- 
 vember, and prevail throughout the winter along the whole 
 coast of Portugal. The sardinha fishery continues, like our 
 oyster fishery between Jersey and the coast of Normandy, 
 during those months whose names include the letter r ; or, in 
 other words, from about the time of the autumnal ta the vernal 
 equinox. 
 
 By way of giving a fresh impulse to the sardinha fishery on 
 this part of the coast, and a profitable direction to the industry 
 and enterprise of the poor inhabitants of Buarcos, our Figueira 
 host, with a foresight and liberality which do his judgment 
 and his heart infinite credit, has recently caused a seine to be 
 made of immense extent, at an expense of 300/. together with 
 the necessary number of boats to manage it in deep water. 
 A sort of company is formed of the most honest, intelligent, 
 and efficient persons out of the fishermen, who amount in 
 number to sixty-four, under the command of two captains, or 
 directors, selected from their own body, and immediately 
 responsible to the founder or renovator of this fishery for one 
 tenth of the produce, as the interest of the money which he 
 has advanced. The beneficial effects of this politic establish- 
 ment are already evidenced in the more healthy appearance 
 and superior comforts of the persons whose services are 
 engaged in it, compared with the wretchedness usually to be 
 observed in that class on all other parts of the coast ; while a 
 sufficient return is made to the speculator upon the capital 
 invested in the concern, who has the proud satisfaction of thus 
 seeing that his object has been most completely answered in 
 the reviving prosperity and happiness of the people, for whose 
 advantage alone the institution was given existence. One 
 
416 PORTUGAL 
 
 fine afternoon, we were accompanied by a large party of his 
 friends from Figueira, to witness the draught of this enormous 
 net, which had been ordered out expressly for our amusement. 
 Those who have been present at similar operations on the 
 coasts of Devon and Cornwall, may well imagine the pecuUar 
 degree of interest with which we regarded, on this occasion, 
 the fishermen of Portugal, whose characteristic vivacity and 
 singular dresses added much to the picturesque effect of the 
 scene. 
 
 The imposition of burdensome duties, and the enactment of 
 impolitic laws, particularly during the sixty years of Spanish 
 usurpation, inflicted the most serious injuries upon Portuguese 
 commerce generally, and particularly upon the welfare of its 
 fisheries, which in the modern day are reduced to a very de- 
 plorable condition. With an extended line of sea-coast, and 
 possessing rivers also abounding with fish, and having the 
 additional advantage of manufacturing her own salt, Portugal 
 nevertheless is now obliged to purchase from Algarve, Galicia, 
 and England, the fish which she was formerly in a capacity to 
 export. Instead, too, of participating, as she used to do, in 
 the advantages of the Newfoundland fishery, and supplying 
 herself with a sufficiency of cured fish for home consumption, 
 as well as with a superfluous quantity for sale to foreigners, 
 she improvidently sells her salt to a more enterprising people, 
 and is content to pay in metal for that which she could herself 
 manufacture at a cheaper rate ; thus increasing the balance of 
 trade against her, and depriving herself of a valuable school in 
 which hands for her navy might be formed. But perhaps it 
 may be said that, beyond the vessels of war now hastening to 
 decay at their anchors in the Tagus, Portugal has no marine 
 to require any nursery of seamen. This is, to a certain de- 
 gree, apparently the case. 
 
 The individual misery of the poor fishermen on her coasts 
 is considerably aggravated, also, by the tyrannical interference 
 
ILLUSTRATED, 417 
 
 of the civil and military officers ; and above all, by excessive 
 duties and privileged rights possessed over their hard earnings 
 by the crown, and a set of harpies appointed, under various 
 denominations, to plunder and oppress them. During the 
 reigns of wise and politic sovereigns, who have occupied the 
 throne of Portugal, as the patriot Denis, the energetic Peter, 
 and the prudent John, the fisheries of Portugal were protected, 
 and rendered productive of considerable wealth to the country, 
 and of revenue to the crown. Under the government of 
 Alphonso III., and that of Denis, the whale-fishery along the 
 coast of the Minho, and to the south of the Tagus, so late 
 even as at the end of the fourteenth century, in the time of 
 Ferdinand, was an important branch of the national industry. 
 But though this source of profit, as well as that arising from 
 the Brasilian fisheries, is lost to Portugal, she might still, 
 under the favouring hand of a free and enlightened govern- 
 ment, render her sardinha, her whiting, and tunny fisheries, 
 as certainly productive of national wealth, individual pros- 
 perity, and public revenue, as the herring-fishery is to England, 
 or as it has been to Holland. Indeed, were the sardinha- 
 fishery properly carried on, it might supply the place of 
 bacalhao, and would even furnish the whole country with fish- 
 oil in sufficient quantities for its consumption ; but in Portu- 
 gal, almost all measures of state are founded upon erroneous 
 principles ; and from want of knowledge and foresight in her 
 rulers, and often from their want of integrity, the best interests 
 of the country are either cruelly mismanaged, or, as in this 
 instance of the fisheries, shamefully oppressed or unwisely 
 abandoned. 
 
 . At Figueira, a rich high-flavoured melon costs about three 
 half-pence of our money; the largest and the best are 
 frequently to be procured, at.ninepence the dozen, from the 
 open field in which they are grown ; and fruit being generally 
 at this price here, a magnificent dessert, such at least we 
 Port. 2 D 
 
418 PORTUGAL 
 
 should call it in England, may be placed on table for less than 
 two shillings. Lemons are invariably supplied in great abun- 
 dance at dinner, which, without exception, as far as our expe- 
 rience has gone, consists of the eternal vegetable soup, with 
 monstrous slices of bread floating on its surface ; boiled beef, 
 bacon, and tongues, served in the same dish, the one as a set- 
 off to the other ; roast or boiled chicken ; a dish of seasoned 
 rice ; vegetables, such as potatoes in their skins ; kidney 
 beans in the pod, often old and hard ; an attempt, perhaps, at 
 a custard pudding, pastry in the summer not being commonly 
 seen, in consequence of the difficulty experienced in procuring 
 good fresh butter, the imported Irish not answering the pur- 
 pose. A good deal of wine is taken at dinner, but not bran- 
 died ; and the kind politeness of the host prompts him to 
 salute all his guests at table by name. When the dessert has 
 been served, the good old custom which once prevailed at the 
 tables of the better classes in England, that is, before super- 
 cilious fashion had pronounced her interdict upon all social 
 expressions of feeling, is in Portugal most religiously observed, 
 and each person drinks to the health of the other. It is not 
 customary to take much wine after the cloth has been removed, 
 nor to sit a long time at the dessert, with which coffee is fre- 
 quently served. In consequence of the early hour of dinner, 
 which in the convents is at eleven o'clock in the forenoon, 
 and in private houses at one, two, or three, supper forms a 
 favourite meal, but now not so much so as formerly, and it is 
 always very sparingly partaken of. 
 
 The tea-party at night, if the complimentary visits of per- 
 sons unknown to each other are then paid, is a formal dull 
 sort of assembUe, which not even the large goblets of pure 
 delicious water, handed round by the servants with sweet- 
 meats and a variety of excellent cakes, is at all able to enliven. 
 A formidable battery of observation is frequently established 
 by the ladies apart, which temerity itself would scarcely ven- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 419 
 
 ture to approach. At one of the evening parties which we 
 lately attended at Figueira, where we had the guitar, mo- 
 dinhas, and dancing, there sat in the centre of the grave circle 
 of dames a nun of most solemn appearance, in the coif of her 
 order, frowning through a fringe of deep black bushy eye- 
 brows, and, in all the sternness of ascetic virtue, contemptu- 
 ously bidding defiance to the trifling gaieties of life. We 
 might well have quoted to this awful apparition of spotless 
 excellence the lines from Shakspeare's Midsummer Night's 
 Dream : — 
 
 You can endure the livery of a nun ; 
 
 For aye to be in shady cloister mewed. 
 
 To live a barren sister all your life, 
 
 Chaunting faint hymns to the cold fruitless moon. 
 
 Thrice blessed they that master so tiaeir blood, 
 
 To undergo such maiden pilgrimage ! 
 
 But earthlier happy is the rose distilled, 
 
 Than that, which, withering on the virgin thorn, 
 
 Grows, lives, and dies, in single blessedness. 
 
 The barque in which we crossed the ferry at Figueira, on 
 our wiy to Leiria, was named " Aleluia." Our mules were 
 nearly destroyed at their embarkation and disembarkation, 
 owing to the awkwardness of the boatmen, and to there being- 
 no falling platforms, upon which the animals might safely 
 walk into the boat from the shore. It was precisely at this 
 spot that the greater part of the British troops under Welling- 
 ton landed in the summer of 1808. 
 
 " The force from Cork," according to Colonel Jones, " dis- 
 embarked in Mondego Bay on the 6th of August" of that year, 
 " and was joined ten days afterwards by the division under 
 Sir Brent Spencer, making an army of 14^000 infantry, and 
 200 cavalry ; with which Sir Arthur Wellesley advanced to- 
 wards Lisbon on the 10th of August. At this period, a strong 
 spirit of resistance to the French had widely spread in Portugal. 
 
420 PORTUGAL 
 
 At Leiria, a body of 6000 Portuguese troops from Porto joined, 
 but could not be prevailed upon to make a forward movement 
 with the British, unless supplied by them with daily rations, 
 which was impracticable. Not shaken in his resolution by 
 this discouraging circumstance, Sir Arthur continued his 
 march unsupported by more than 1600 of the natives; and at 
 Rolijfo, on the 17th, drove before him a corps of 3000 French 
 under General Laborde." 
 
 Passing from the ferry by a deep sandy road to the high 
 grounds towards the south, which are covered with pine 
 woods, and upon the skirts of which the British troops 
 remained some time encamped before their advance to the 
 village of Rolif o, we reached the confines of the province of 
 Portuguese Estremadura. Thence we travelled through a 
 dull uninteresting line of country, consisting principally of 
 sand and pine forests, to the small village of Guias, where we 
 halted, during the heat of the day, at a small estalagem far 
 worse than any English hedge alehouse. Indeed, a more 
 wretched habitation cannot be well imagined. Like the other 
 cottage-huts which we observed on the route, it was built of 
 square masses of blue clay, simply hardened by the rays of 
 the sun. Here we found a guard of soldiers stationed, as the 
 neighbouring forest was infested with banditti. The master 
 of the inn and a party of labourers, when we arrived, were 
 partaking of their humble meal of bread and vegetables 
 from one common dish ; and as the clock of the parish church 
 struck the hour of twelve, the whole party rose simultaneously 
 from their seats, and covering their faces with their hands, 
 remained during some moments in silent prayer. No groupe 
 ever more resembled a party of cannibals than the females of 
 this miserable caravansary, grandmother, mother, and a nu- 
 merous progeny of dirty infants. They eagerly seized the 
 remains of our dish of " gallinha" stewed with onions in red 
 wine, and squatting on their hams, dipped their broa and fingers 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 421 
 
 into the swingeing tureen until the whole had disappeared. 
 Better things might have been expected from their necklaces 
 and ear-rings of gold, though to be sure their dress was scarcely 
 decent. The road hence to Leiria runs partly through a pine 
 forest, and partly through an open country unproductive and 
 uninteresting ; and as in the language of Byron, 
 
 More bleak to view the hills at length recede, 
 And less luxuriant smoother vales extend : 
 Immense horizon-bounded plains succeed, 
 Far as the eye discerns withouten end. 
 
 The rays of the setting sun were throwing a mantle of glory 
 round the proud remains of the old castle at Leiria, as we 
 followed the road, which winds round its base, into the town. 
 It really is a most magnificent structure, splendid even in its 
 state of decay, and challenges the historical recollections of 
 the traveller with many an interesting "tale of the times of 
 old ! the deeds of days of other years." It recalled to our 
 recollection the description given by Fingal to Clessammor, of 
 the deserted habitation of Moina : — 
 
 " We have seen the walls of Balclutha, but they were deso- 
 late. The fire had resounded in the halls, and the voice of the 
 people is heard no more. The thistle shook there its lonely 
 head ; the moss whistled to the wind ; the fox looked out from 
 the windows, the rank grass of the wall waved round its head. 
 Desolate is the dwelling of Moina, silence is in the house of 
 her fathers. They have but fallen before us ; for one day we 
 must fall. Why dost thou build the hall, son of the winged 
 day ? Thou lookest from thy towers to-day : yet a few years, 
 and the blast of the desert comes ; it howls in thy empty court, 
 and whistles round thy half-worn shield." 
 
 In this castle the patriot sovereign Denis took up his habi- 
 tation towards the close of the thirteenth century. In the 
 
422 PORTUGAL 
 
 time of the Romans, Leiria was the seat of their government 
 in this part of Lusitania ; and upon the fall of that empire in the 
 fifth century, it came, with all the country to the north of the 
 Tagus, into the possession of the Suevi, who were themselves 
 conquered by the Visigoths in the following. In the eighth 
 century, the Moors made themselves masters of this strong 
 place, together with the whole of Portugal ; and it was subse- 
 quently to their defeat at Ourique by Alphonso Henriquez, in 
 1139, that Leiria grew into importance, and became the see of 
 a bishop, and a royal residence. 
 
 The insulated eminence on which the old castle is situated, 
 completely commanding the town from its ramparts, and the 
 pretty and well-cultivated valleys running between the sur- 
 rounding hills in the neighbourhood, stands nearly to the north 
 of the town. No landscape scenery can exceed in beauty the 
 charming points of view to be obtained from these interesting 
 ruins, of which a faithful sketch is inclosed. 
 
 At the entrance into the castle from the south-east, to the 
 left hand, and near the principal gateway, we found imbedded 
 longitudinally into the wall, some large pieces of a whitish 
 marble, crossed by red veins ; the inscriptions upon which, 
 deciphered with difficulty, prove them to have been tumular 
 stones left by the Romans. After their time, they must have 
 been employed in the erection of the castle by those who 
 succeeded to their possessions in Lusitania. There were many 
 of these monuments to be seen near each other, but only two 
 were at all legible. These are given in their original form, with 
 the inscriptions restored to their perfect state, and an English 
 translation for the benefit of our country friends. No liberty 
 has been taken with either inscription, except in the second, 
 by dividing TRIPI into two words, by which means, what 
 would be otherwise unintelligible, becomes plain and easy to 
 be understood. Again, P. A. (if these letters do not signify. 
 
'■':' 
 
 
 
 'iffi' 
 
 
 ^■| 
 
 1 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 ; 
 
 
 1v 
 
 
 
 
 '^^ 
 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 423 
 
 as we have conjectured, " Praefectus Annonae") may be con- 
 sidered to be one word, without any division between the 
 letters, and to be only the abbreviation of PATER. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 ORIGINAL INSCRIPTION. 
 
 D • M • 
 
 ALBVRAAE 
 
 TITI • F • 
 
 AVITI • F • 
 
 D . V - TI • A • A • 
 
 MATER 
 
 P • C • 
 
 INTERPRETATION. 
 
 Diis Manibus. 
 
 ALBVRAAE 
 
 TITI • Filiae 
 
 AVITI • Filio 
 
 DuumViri TIti Aviti Avitiani 
 
 MATER • 
 
 Ponendum Curavit. 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 Sacred to the Manes. 
 
 To Alburaa, 
 
 The Daughter of Titus, 
 
 The Son of Avitus, 
 
 The Mother of the Duumvir 
 
 Titus Avitus Avitianus, 
 
 Procured this Moiiument to be erected. 
 
424 PORTUGAL 
 
 No. II. 
 
 ORIGINAL INSCRIPTION. 
 
 D • M • 
 
 M • FRONTONI 
 
 O • FRONTONI 
 
 M • FRONTONI • V • 
 
 AVITVS • P • A • 
 
 TRI • PI • F • S • SIM 
 
 P • C • 
 
 S • T • J • L • 
 
 INTERPRETATION. 
 
 Diis Mauibus. 
 
 Marco FRONTONI 
 
 Ollae FRONTONI 
 
 Marco FRONTONI Vopisco 
 
 AVITVS Praefectus Annonae 
 
 TRIbus Plissimis Filiis Suis SIMuI 
 
 Ponendum Curayit. 
 
 Suo Titulo Jussit Locum. 
 
 TRANSLATION. 
 
 Sacred to the Manes. 
 
 To Marcus Fronto, 
 
 To Olla Fronto, 
 
 To Marcus Fronto Vopiscus, 
 
 Avitus, the Prefect of the Revenue in the Corn department. 
 
 To his three most dutiful Sons at the same time. 
 
 Procured this Monument to be erected. 
 
 The place of sepulture he ordered in his own right and title. 
 
 A great part indeed of this palace, according to Murphy, 
 is thought to have been built of the fragnjents of an ancient 
 city called Callipo, which history shows to have once flourished 
 near this place. I saw, he says, a gold coin that was lately 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 425 
 
 found there among the rubbish, bearing a figure of a bull on 
 the reverse finely executed. The name, perhaps, should be 
 written Calliope. As it was a Roman city, it might have 
 been so called after the mother of Orpheus and muse of Epic 
 poesy. 
 
 To the right of the platform, whence the ascent to the gate 
 of the castle may be said to commence, immediately above the 
 episcopal palace, and looking due west, there is an highly in- 
 teresting specimen of Moorish architecture, as it is considered 
 by the natives, in a large arch of the principal west entrance, 
 now walled up, into an old chapel, no longer used for divine 
 worship, which upon a first hasty view from a distance would 
 appear to resemble the western Saxon door of Ifley Church 
 near Oxford, and many others of that era and of a later date 
 But upon a nearer inspection, this circular arch at Leira, re- 
 puted Moorish, would seem to be nothing more than a variety 
 of the same description of Gothic arch. 
 
 1. The outward mouldings, which run round the receding 
 arches, are decorated with a wreath of flowers, evidently of an 
 oriental character. 2, The terminations on either side are 
 supported by columns ornamented with heads looking up- 
 wards. 3. The number of receding arches is six, and the cir- 
 cular lines intervening are alternately charged with rosettes 
 and rows of heads in half relief; these heads are represented 
 as leaning forward on one of the hands, while the other grasps 
 the arch beneath. 4. Instead of the beaks and tongues of gro- 
 tesque animals observable on the Saxon arches of Ifley Church 
 near Oxford, and at St. Peter's in the east, Oxford, these "heads 
 on hands" distinguish the Leiria arch. 5. Above this circular 
 arch, again, are represented in demi-relievo grotesque human 
 figures of different shapes, with heads of oxen and sheep pro- 
 jecting. 6. and lastly. The arch of this western entrance is 
 supported at either termination of its bend by five columns ; 
 those on the right side are much defaced and injured by time 
 
426 PORTUGAL 
 
 or weather. The capitals of these columns represent flowers 
 of an oriental character, intermixed with nondescript birds and 
 grotesquely shaped animals. These severally distinct and 
 characteristic portions are interlaced with each other, and com- 
 bining curiously, give a peculiar interest to the whole. You 
 will form a more correct idea, however, of this door-way from 
 the accompanying sketch. 
 
 The S6, or cathedral church, is a structure of imposing 
 magnitude and grandeur, but perfectly plain. It is fortunate 
 that the poverty of the Chapter has not allowed of their in- 
 dulging in the usual bad taste of Portuguese ecclesiastics, by 
 disguising the fine proportions and rich ornaments in stone, 
 with the vile bedaubings of the gilt-gingerbread order. Its 
 uncharged simplicity of character gives it an infinite advan- 
 tage in appearance and in reality likewise over the other Por- 
 tuguese churches, in the interior of which a tasteless display 
 is made of conventual wealth, to the annoyance of every tra- 
 veller who has not studied architecture and the rules of its 
 decorations in the barbarous schools of that most destructive 
 sect, British churchwardens. 
 
 Leiria is a Comarca town, situated on a plain between the 
 small rivers called Liz and Lena. It consists of two parishes, 
 and contains four religious houses, two, if not more of which 
 were burnt with the town-house, now about to be repaired, by 
 the French under Junot, who, finding, according to Colonel 
 Jones's statement, " that the Portuguese were no longer to be 
 deceived by promises, and that partial risings were becoming 
 general, decreed that whatsoever town or village should op- 
 pose the French troops should be given up to pillage, the in- 
 habitants put to the sword, and the houses levelled with the 
 ground ; and further, that all individuals found with arms in 
 their hands, under any circumstances, should be instantly 
 shot. These threats were enforced with a terrible severity at 
 Leiria by General Margaron ; but the name immortalised as 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 427 
 
 the most active agent of these atrocities is that of Loisbn." 
 The soil of this valley is so productive, as Murphy correctly 
 states, that with little labour it yields abundance of corn, 
 grapes, and olives ; yet with all these advantages, both the 
 plough and the loom are neglected ; no wonder then that an 
 air of sadness and desolation is visible in every street. The 
 low hills which surround the town are composed chiefly of 
 sandstone, and are clothed with olive and pine woods. To 
 the east-south-east of the town there is a remarkably pretty hill, 
 crowned with a chapel, to which, after the example of the Sen- 
 hor do Monte, described in a former letter, the approach is up 
 a long flight of steps under arches placed at different intervals. 
 In the domestic architecture of the place, we have discovered 
 some very interesting specimens, which, though not Moorish, 
 perhaps, as reputed, have strong claims, nevertheless, upon 
 our consideration for their antiquity. 
 
 The British troops have been lately stationed here, and ac- 
 cordingly meat and vegetables of all kinds, poultry and game, 
 have attained to an exorbitant price. We could only procure 
 one miserable chicken for dinner, and that cost us one crusado 
 and a half. There was no meat to be had, and our condessa, 
 amply furnished with viaticum by our liberal host at Figueira, 
 was reposing on the other side of the Mondego, having been 
 left behind us by an unfortunate mistake. Sweet cakes and 
 green tea, bought at an apothecary's, proved a most welcome 
 help out to our meagre fare. The large estalagem, opposite a 
 mill and the military hospital, might be rendered capable of 
 affording the traveller every comfort ; but not one thing save 
 hot water was to be had in the house, and consequently it was 
 half a morning's work to hunt up the little et-ceteras men- 
 tioned above, not to omit a fragrant string of onions paid for at 
 nearly the same rate at which those delicacies would be pro- 
 cured in England. We were obliged to send out our boots to 
 be cleaned by a shoemaker, and with respect to other accom- 
 
428 PORTUGAL 
 
 modations, which shall be nameless, the only reply to our in- 
 quiries, was an impracticable shrug of the shoulders and a 
 most decided negative. No class of persons so much as tra- 
 vellers experience how fertile a mother of invention necessity 
 becomes. 
 
 In rambling over the ruins of the castle, we discovered in 
 tolerably perfect condition a beautiful Gothic chapel, appa- 
 rently of later date than the other portions of the building ; 
 and, in a retired corner upon the northern side, a flat stone 
 recently placed over the body of a young ensign of the 10th 
 regiment of foot, by his brother officers. The tale revealed 
 by the inscription was brief and melancholy ; but still it was 
 honourable to the deceased, for it spoke of his excellent qua- 
 lities, and the warm affection borne to him by his companions 
 in arms. It would not be a figure of speech to say, that the 
 mortar which cemented the stone slab to a slight brick- work 
 raised above the ground, could scarcely have been dry, when 
 either curiosity, villainy, or hostility to the English, tempted 
 some wretches to disturb the hallowed repose of this tomb. 
 The British troops were no longer in garrison at Leiria. It 
 was impossible for an English traveller to see the grave of a 
 countryman so disgracefully treated, without feeling a desire 
 to" restore it to its former condition. We had the satisfaction 
 of doing so, and though the effort may have led to nothing 
 permanent, — and what is so ? — yet there was something pleas- 
 ing in the reflection, that at least for a time we had rescued 
 this humble monument from destruction. 
 
 The superb forest of venerable pines in the neighbourhood 
 of Leiria, and which extends to the westward beyond Marinha 
 Grande, in the direction of the sea-shore, was planted by the 
 wise lawgiver of Portugal, Denis, whose noblest fame is, that 
 he was the enemy of the feudal system, the .promoter of agri- 
 culture, and the patron of a wretched peasantry, of whom the 
 Lusitanian poet sings. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 429 
 
 Now brave Diniz reigns, whose noble fire 
 
 Bespoke the genuine lineage of his sire ; 
 
 Now heavenly peace wide wav'd her olive bough ; 
 
 Each vale displayed the labours of the plough, 
 
 And smiled with joy : the rocks on every shore 
 
 Resound the dashing of the merchant oar. 
 
 Wise laws are framed, and constitutions weighed, 
 
 And the deep-rooted base of empire laid. 
 
 Book hi. 
 
 The advance of the sands upon the fertile part of this 
 district has, in consequence of this pine forest being planted, 
 been successfully arrested, and a large quantity of timber is 
 hence annually supplied for the purposes of government, as 
 well as for the use of the glass-house established at Marinha 
 by an English gentleman of the name of Stephens, and which 
 is now conducted by Mr. Lyne. Though it must be confessed 
 that the glass manufactured here, does not possess all the 
 lustre of the English glass, yet it is considered to be very 
 good, and we are told that the manufactory supplies a great 
 part of the kingdom, foreign glass being subject to high duties, 
 though a great quantity is still imported from Germany. 
 Hence the distance to Batalha is about two leagues, and the 
 road passes through a forest of olive trees, which cover an im- 
 mense extent of country on either side. The climate of Por- 
 tugal is peculiarly favourable for the cultivation of the olive, 
 which, with an increased degree of attention, might be made a 
 principal source of its wealth ; but this is another important 
 branch of Portuguese economy most impoliticly neglected. 
 The olive-tree flourishes in soils little calculated for other pro- 
 ductions, and requires infinitely less care than the vine. Oil 
 in Portugal supplies the place of butter ; its consumption, 
 therefore, is immense, and excepting in the kitchens of the 
 wealthier classes, butter is hardly ever used by the Portu- 
 guese. 
 
 " The olive-tree," as Link states, " most abounds in the 
 
430 PORTUGAL 
 
 midland parts of Portugal. There are several varieties of it ; 
 but in general the Portuguese oil is better than that of Spain, 
 though the olives are smaller. The olive-tree is planted by 
 sets (tanchoes,) or it is grafted on the w^ild olive, (azambujeiro,) 
 which is by no means scarce in many parts of Portugal. The 
 sets are cut off from the old trees in autumn, preserved in 
 moist earth, and are set from the beginning of January to the 
 end of April, according to the situation of the soil. While the 
 trees are young, the superfluous branches are cut off"; but the 
 olive-tree bears very late, not till its fifteenth year. The olives 
 are ripe in November and December ; they are then beaten 
 from the trees by long poles. It would certainly be better, 
 were the olives plucked by the hand as in the south of France. 
 Some immediately press them ; others shoot them down in 
 heaps, throwing salt between them, and suffering them to 
 ferment in order to produce more oil, of which, however, the 
 quality is inferior. The presses are worked by oxen ; but the 
 want of cleanliness, both in these machines, and throughout 
 the whole process, contributes much to render the quality of 
 the oil worse than it might be." 
 
 One of the inducements which may have led to the dimi- 
 nished cultivation of the olive, would appear to be the increase 
 of the disease called " Ferrugem," or rust, the progress of 
 which the most scientific agriculturists in the country have 
 not yet succeeded in arresting. Various experiments have 
 been tried in order to overcome this malady ; but the evil has 
 continued, and is now universal. Those branches which are 
 attacked by it appear to be covered with a coating of black 
 soot, and a first inspection would lead the inexperienced tra- 
 veller to conclude that they had actually been submitted to the 
 fire. But, in fact, this coat of dust, which causes the leaves 
 to shrivel and the branch eventually to lose its moisture and 
 perish, is an aggregation of myriads of a small dark-coloured 
 insect, very diminutive in size, and only to be distinctly dis- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 431 
 
 cerned by the finest microscope. It multiplies its species rapid- 
 ly, and soon colonizes over the whole tree. By some naturalists 
 it is considered to belong to the family of Coccus, though not yet 
 established as a separate species. The government should take 
 this matter up, for at present Portugal does not grow sufficient 
 oil for her own consumption, and she is therefore compelled to 
 import annually large quantities of it from Newfoundland, 
 which is paid for partly in salt and partly in specie, and the 
 result of this bad system is, that the balance of trade conti- 
 nually receives an augmentation against her. Were the olive 
 plantations better managed, and the farmer encouraged and 
 protected by the government, Portugal might produce sufficient 
 oil for her own consumption and for exportation, and even manu- 
 facture her own soap, and of a far superior quality to the foreign 
 article, into whose composition animal oil is admitted. The 
 oil of Florence and of Provence is not considered to be superior 
 in delicate quality to the good Portuguese oil when properly 
 made. We have remarked that the olive-trees which were 
 wantonly cut down by the French armies are now in a more 
 vigorous state for bearing fruit than the others. 
 
 Owing to a want also of judicious encouragement, the Por- 
 tuguese are very much behind the French and Italians in the 
 art of extracting the oil from the fruit. Several works, how- 
 ever, have been written on this subject, and a treatise by Sen- 
 hor Dalabella, a doctor in medicine at Coimbra, is highly 
 spoken of, and as only requiring to be spread about the 
 country among the farmers, with injunctions to adhere strictly 
 to its suggestions for the manufacture of oil, to produce a very 
 beneficial change in the plan at present followed. But, after 
 all, the grand obstacle to improvement in the manufacture of 
 oil is to be found in the oppression of the exclusive privilege 
 granted by the crown in ancient times to Fidalgos and reli- 
 gious corporations, that no other persons besides themselves 
 should be permitted to keep oil presses, called in Portuguese 
 
432 PORTUGAL 
 
 Lagares d' Azeite. The injurious consequence of this mono- 
 poly accorded to the nobility and convents is, that the farmers 
 are very frequently compelled, from want of influence or of 
 the means to obtain the use of the Lagares by bribes, to wait 
 for their turn until the months of May or June, by which time 
 their crops of fruit have become rotten, and the produce is in- 
 ferior in quality as well as in quantity. Thus the grower is 
 impoverished, the government derives no benefit from the cul- 
 ture, and the people at large are obliged to make use of the 
 bad oil when the best might be produced on their own soil, or 
 purchase that of a superior kind from foreign countries. In 
 some years the crop of olives is so very deficient in quantity, 
 and the price of native oil so much advanced, in consequence, 
 that the poor people are unable to purchase it ; and this priva- 
 tion is severely felt in Lent, when the rulers of the Romish 
 church inhibit the use of flesh, and the ordinary food of the 
 lower orders is bacalhaS, and vegetables dressed with oil. 
 
 The grand, and indeed the only attraction to draw a stranger 
 to the village of Batalha, is the beautiful Dominican abbey 
 and church, founded there by the bastard John at the close of 
 the fourteenth century, in commemoration of the signal victory 
 obtained by his troops over the numerous forces of Castile on 
 the field of Aljubarrota. " The sight of this edifice," says 
 Murphy, " would have amply repaid a longer journey, even 
 though less pleasant, than that I had just experienced ; and 
 what enhanced the pleasure of the prospect, was the unex- 
 pected view of it at an hour when the sun was setting, and 
 every turret was gilded with the radiance of his descending 
 beams. The busy assemblage of spires, pinnacles, buttresses, 
 and windows ; their deep projecting shadows, the Siberian so- 
 litude of the place, and the venerable appearance of the friars, 
 rendered this one of the most remarkable scenes I ever 
 beheld." It was just at such a moment that the abbey 
 burst upon us at once, as we passed down into the valley, from 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 433 
 
 a narrow road, which wound for some considerable distance 
 under the umbrageous canopy of old fantastic oaks. The sur- 
 rounding hills are pretty, though they attain to no great eleva- 
 tion. In the accompanying sketch you will find a faithful 
 representation of the abbey as it now stands, as well as of the 
 scenery of the valley. The singularly built and open trans- 
 parent tower, of which Link speaks as striking the eye and 
 pleasing by its noble proportions, was injured by lightning ten 
 or twelve years since, and fell in upon the chapter-house, to 
 which it did considerable damage. 
 
 A more beautiful specimen of modern Norman Gothic than 
 the church attached to this abbey cannot be mentioned. The 
 fathers Cacegas and De Suisa inform us in their history of Ba- 
 talha, that King John, being desirous of building a monastery 
 superior to any in Europe, invited from distant countries the 
 most celebrated architects that could be found. Mr. Murphy 
 thinks that, " as Gothic architecture at that time flourished in 
 England, it is not improbable that some of its artists might 
 have embraced the invitation of so liberal a prince, especially 
 as his consort. Queen Philippa, a princess endowed with many 
 amiable qualities, was the eldest daughter of John of Gaunt, 
 duke of Lancaster, son of Edward IIL In the interior of the 
 church there is a chaste and noble plainness, and the general 
 effect, which is grand and sublime, is derived not from any me- 
 retricious embellishments, but from the intrinsic merit of the 
 design. The forms of its mouldings and ornaments are also 
 different from those of any other Gothic building that we have 
 ever seen. Throughout the whole are to be observed a correct- 
 ness and regularity evidently the result of a well conceived ori- 
 ginal design. The extent of the building from the western 
 entrance to the eastern extremity is 416 feet, and from north 
 to south, including the monastery, it measures 541 feet. In 
 every thing that constitutes the ornamental or the elegant, the 
 Port. 2 E 
 
434 PORTUGAL 
 
 principal entrance certainly stands unrivalled by any other 
 Gothic frontispiece in Europe." 
 
 Again — " The portal, which is 28 feet wide by 57 high, is 
 embellished with upwards of one hundred figures in alto 
 relievo, representing Moses and the prophets, saints and angels, 
 apostles, kings, popes, bishops, and martyrs, with their respec- 
 tive insignia. Each figure stands on an ornamented pedestal, 
 beneath a canopy of delicate workmanship ; they are separated 
 from each other by an assemblage of mouldings terminating 
 in pointed arches. The large central window is of singular 
 workmanship ; it consists of tablets of marble formed into 
 numerous compartments, whose interstices are filled up with 
 stained glass. In the evening, when the sun is opposite to 
 this window, its beams dart through the perforations, and 
 cover the walls and pillars of the church with myriads of va- 
 riegated tints." 
 
 Upon Murphy's statement that the entire monastery, except 
 the inferior offices and dormitories, is built of marble originally 
 not very dissimilar in colour to that of Carrara, Link justly 
 remarks that an architect ought at least to know so much of 
 mineralogy as to perceive that it is not marble, but a calca- 
 reous species of sand-stone, which appears in all parts of the 
 surrounding mountains, while marble is not found for a consi- 
 derable distance. It certainly is true, however, that the colour 
 of the stone is now changed internally to a modest grey ; and 
 that externally it has contracted a yellow scoria, the appear- 
 ance of which is highly picturesque to the eye of an artist. 
 
 The monks received us with great civility, and allowed us 
 the use of their sacristy to take some refreshments in, and 
 pressed us strongly to pass the night in the convent. The 
 French had made a kitchen of this room, stolen all the rich 
 vestments, gold and silver chalices and candlesticks, and had 
 lighted their fires with the wood-work of the drawers. The 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 435 
 
 present condition of the building, we find, upon a close exa- 
 mination of its interior, to be almost ruinous, the work of the 
 Philistine armies of France, who seemed to take a savage 
 delight in degrading to the utmost of their power those build- 
 ings in Portugal consecrated to the purposes of religion. The 
 monks have not sufficient funds to put the building into a state 
 of repair, and perhaps only a few years may pass away before 
 the following lines may be as applicable to Batalha as to 
 
 Newstead ! fast falling, once resplendent dome ! 
 Religion's shrine! 
 
 Of warriors, monks, and dames the cloistered tomb. 
 Whose pensive shades around the ruins glide : 
 
 Yes ! in thy gloomy cells and shades profound, 
 The monk abjured a world he ne'er could view ; 
 
 Or blood-stain'd guilt repenting solace found. 
 Or innocence from stern oppression flew. 
 
 A monarch bade thee from that wild arise, 
 
 * » • * j^ * 
 
 And superstition's crimes, of various dyes, 
 Sought shelter in the priest's protecting cowl. 
 
 Where now the grass exhales a murky dew. 
 
 The humid pall of life-extinguished clay, 
 In sainted fame the sacred fathers grew, 
 
 Nor raised their pious voices but to pray. 
 
 Where now the bats their wavering wings extend. 
 
 Soon as the gloaming spreads her waning shade, 
 
 The choir did oft their mingling vespers blend, 
 
 Or matin orisons to Mary paid. 
 
 Byron. 
 
 The founder's chapel to the south of the centre of the nave 
 is in tolerable repair, but still the monuments are very much 
 degraded, and the marble effigies have been shamefully muti- 
 lated by the French. The British soldiers have contented 
 themselves with doing no other injury than merely scribbling 
 their names by whole companies upon the walls, concluding 
 
436 PORTUGAL 
 
 with the eternal "Were here on such a day." The armorial 
 shield of the sovereign has been broken to pieces, and they are 
 suffered to lie about the floor together with the broken stained- 
 glass from the windows and Gothic ornaments of the royal 
 tombs amid the accumulated filth of years. In the centre of 
 the founder's chapel, is an insulated sepulchre, with two re- 
 cumbent effigies in white marble, the size of life. These 
 effigies repi-esent the king and queen ; the former is dressed 
 in a complete suit of armour, the latter in a long flowing robe, 
 the graceful habit of the age ; the head of each is dignified 
 with a low open crown, beneath a triple canopy of curious 
 workmanship, in the Gothic manner. Contiguous to the tomb 
 of the founder are four mural sepulchres of very elegant work- 
 manship, in the Gothic style, containing the remains of the 
 sons of John I., — Pedro, Henry, John, and Ferdinand. These 
 are in a better state of preservation. 
 
 The beautiful tomb in party-coloured marble of a duke of 
 Braganza in the south transept has been cruelly abused, and 
 the inscription which recorded his valour and his virtues has 
 been totally effaced by the French ; but the altar-piece of fine 
 mosaic, through some accidental circumstance, remains un- 
 injured. In a small chapel contiguous, the body of King 
 John II. was formerly exposed to public view, and in a perfect 
 state of preservation ; but the French of the Napoleon regime, 
 who carried on war against the dead as well as against the 
 living, violated the sanctity of this royal tomb, and scattered 
 its contents about the church . The abbot collected afterwards 
 the precious remains with pious care, and deposited them in a 
 tomb of wood painted — the utmost the nearly ruined finances 
 of the monastery allowed him to do in honour of the sovereign 
 whose name stands recorded on the Portuguese annals with 
 the appellation of " the Great !" The sepulchre of the illus- 
 trious Edward and his wife is placed immediately below the 
 high altar. Having nothing particularly characteristic about 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 437 
 
 it to invite wanton insult and injury, it escaped the violence of 
 the barbarians. Perhaps its preservation may be attributed 
 to the accidental circumstance of its lying hid under the hay 
 and straw introduced by the French into the choir ; for this part 
 of the church they converted into a stable. The noble monu- 
 ment erected in the church of St. Thomas at Strasburg to the 
 memory of the Marechal Saxe, was, we believe, concealed by 
 similar means from the intended attack upon it of the revolu- 
 tionary troops. The view down the nave from the steps of the 
 high altar is certainly grand, but neither in length nor breadth 
 is the church to be compared with St. Ouen at Rouen ; and 
 the west window, as seen from the interior, appears far too 
 small to produce the beautiful effect of those generally placed 
 over the principal western entrances of Anglo-Norman struc- 
 tures. 
 
 The vestiges of French barbarity are still more discernible 
 in the two chapels of the north transept, and in the chapter- 
 house adjoining, which is a beautiful apartment, opening by a 
 splendid door-way and two large unglazed windows into the 
 cloisters. " In point of construction," says Murphy, " the 
 chapter-house might be considered a master-piece of architec- 
 ture. Its plan forms a square, each side of which measures 
 sixty-four feet, and is covered with a vault of hewn stone. 
 The principal ribs spring from slender shafts, and branch out 
 in different directions, as they approach to the centre, where 
 all the radiating nerves, in the form of a star, encircle an 
 ornamented patera." The large eastern window contains a 
 representation, in painted glass, which has been only slightly 
 injured, of our Lord's crucifixion, and of his descent from the 
 cross. Its style of execution has no distinguishing merit. 
 The French converted this splendid hall into a dormitory, and 
 in order to obtain additional room, broke in pieces and re- 
 moved the noble monuments of Alphonso V. and of the Infant 
 his grandson, which occupied its centre. Their places have 
 been supplied by unsightly tombs of painted wood. The three 
 
438 PORTUGAL 
 
 altars covered with Dutch tiles, we represented to the monks, 
 were not quite in accordance with the character of the place ; 
 of the truth of which they appeared to be convinced, and half- 
 promised to remove them. To erect altars of Gothic stone- 
 work corresponding with the architecture of the building, it 
 was not in their power to undertake. Not satisfied with com- 
 mitting the shameful outrages already enumerated, the French 
 set fire to the conventual part of the abbey, the greater part of 
 which remains at present a perfect ruin, and a more sad scene 
 of destruction and desolation cannot be imagined. 
 
 The large refectory is no longer used by the monks for that 
 purpose, their numbers, as well as their revenues, being ex- 
 tremely limited. It is now converted into a granary and store- 
 house for the fruits and vegetables produced from the orchards 
 and gardens of which they are still permitted to retain posses- 
 sion. The Prior related to us with proud satisfaction, that his 
 society had upon one occasion entertained at dinner in the 
 refectory, the Duke of Wellington and one hundred and 
 twenty-five British officers ; and to ourselves, likewise, he was 
 forward in offering all the hospitality which his humble means 
 would afford. Whatever objections we may sincerely enter- 
 tain against the monastic system in Portugal, it would be 
 unjust, as well as ungrateful, not to acknowledge the prompt 
 civilities and respect which, as English travellers, we always 
 experienced from the individual members of those convents 
 whose interior we visited. 
 
 The " capellas imperfeitas," intended by its founder, either , 
 the queen of John II., or his successor Emmanuel, as a mau- 
 soleum, to receive the remains of the Portuguese sovereigns, 
 is situated at the south-eastern extremity of the church. The 
 unrivalled specimens of sculpture with which it is enriched 
 throughout, would defy the powers of the most elaborate de- 
 scription to do them justice. " The magnificent entrance is 
 thirty-two feet wide at the splay," according to Murphy's 
 statement, and " as it recedes, the breadth contracts, till it 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 439 
 
 forms an aperture of fifteen feet wide by thirty-one feet high. 
 The architecture in some parts is Arabian ; in others, absolute 
 Gothic. The inside presents an octagon, the diameter of 
 which, between the parallel sides, is sixty-five feet. This 
 was to have been covered with a vault of hewji stone. The 
 whole is carried up to the height of about ] 75 feet ; and 
 though it has been exposed to the weather since 1509, it 
 scarcely exhibits any traces of decay. The sides of the octa- 
 gon, except the one at the entrance, are finished with arches 
 leading to as many chapels, each distinguished by the devices 
 of the princes for whom they were intended. At the death of 
 his sister. Queen Leonor, Emmanuel drew all the artificers 
 employed here to the Convent of Bellem, near Lisbon, founded 
 by him in testimony of his joy for the discovery of India; in 
 consequence of which, this work has since remained in a 
 neglected state." 
 
 The road from Batalha to Alcoba^a, a distance of three 
 leagues, passes partly through some fine valleys abounding 
 with olive plantations, among which the disease called the 
 " ferrugem " seems to have committed great havoc. The 
 range of the Serra de Lousao, which ultimately terminates in 
 the rock of Lisbon, runs to the left in the direction from north- 
 east to south-west. Ascending a hill whose sides were clothed 
 with pine woods, we found ourselves upon the elevated plain 
 where the town of Aljubarrota is situated, which is celebrated 
 for the complete victory obtained in its neighbourhood by 
 John L over the superior forces of Spain, when his claims to 
 the crown of Portugal were firmly established. Camoens 
 gives a glowing description of this memorable combat in the 
 fourth book of his Lusiad : — 
 
 Now low the proud Castilian standard lies 
 Beneath the Lusian flag a vanquished prize. 
 
440 PORTUGAL 
 
 Now from the field Castile's proud monarch flies, 
 
 In wild dismay he rolls his maddening eyes, 
 
 And leads the pale-lipped flight; swift, winged with fear. 
 
 As drifted smoke, at distance disappear 
 
 The dusty squadrons of the scattered rear; 
 
 Blasphenjing heaven they fly, and him who first 
 
 Forged murdering arms, and lead to horrid wars accurst. 
 
 Over the portal of the town-house at Aljubarrota are in- 
 scribed the following lines, commemorating the heroism of 
 Brites de Almeida, who with an oven-spade killed seven 
 Spanish soldiers: — 
 
 En patriae urbs olim celebri memoranda triumpho, 
 
 Cujus erit Brittes inclyta semper honos. 
 Stat sine morte decus, vivacis machina mortis. 
 
 Qua afFecit validos mira virago viros. 
 
 In a collection of letters and dissertations published at Lis- 
 bon in 1776 by Francisco Manuel de Figueiredo, a Bernar- 
 dine monk, may be found a brief history of this Amazonian 
 dame, who so nobly distinguished herself in the defence of her 
 country. 
 
 The road hence to the Comarca town of Alcobaf a led us 
 through a well-cultivated country abounding with woods 
 and green meadows, and producing large quantities of corn 
 and a great variety of fruits. It derives its name from its 
 situation at the confluence of the two small rivers, Baf a and 
 Alcoa. The system of agriculture pursued in this district is 
 excellent, and may be entirely attributed to the superior 
 knowledge of the Bernardine brethren in all matters con- 
 nected with rural economy. As the German states, Alcobaifa 
 is surrounded by mountains. To the south-west and to the 
 northward sand-stone mountains press close round it. To 
 the westward rises a high naked range of mountains, which, 
 for a considerable distance, runs parallel with the coast, being 
 connected, though by detached ridges, with Monte Junto to 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 441 
 
 the south-east, and Lusa5 to the north-east. A part of this 
 range is called Porto de Moz, and affords excellent marble. 
 To the east of the convent is seen the continuation of the line 
 of the Serra da Estrella, which here assumes the name of 
 Serra do Val de Ventor, or Serra de Alberdos. 
 
 The royal founder, Alphonso Henriquez, could not have 
 chosen a more delightful spot to commemorate, by a religious 
 edifice, his capture of Santarem from the Moors in 1148. It 
 lies concealed at the northern extremity of a beautiful valley, 
 away from the public sight, and shunning as it were the gaze 
 of the world. The church is built in the style of Norman 
 Gothic, with the exception of the long western facade, which 
 has the appearance of belonging to a palace. It is approached 
 by two magnificent flights of steps ; but the large figures over 
 the centre, representing the cardinal virtues, and the incon- 
 gruous mixture of the Tuscan with the Gothic style, must 
 offend the taste of an English architect. The west front of 
 the monastery, says Murphy, including the church, which is 
 in the centre, exceeds 620 feet ; the depth is about 750 feet. 
 The inclosed space is occupied by dormitories, galleries, and 
 cloisters. A Portuguese writer, in speaking of the magnifi- 
 cence of this monastery, observes that its cloisters are cities, 
 its sacristy a church, and the church a basilic. To the south- 
 west of the open space in front of the convent, is situated 
 the small parish church, which has precisely the same bad 
 effect with relation to the larger structure, that the church of 
 St. Margaret has to Westminster Abbey, both resembling the 
 extinguisher of a candlestick. 
 
 " The church of Alcobaca," to pursue our authority, " is 
 one of the earliest specimens of the modern Norman Gothic in 
 Europe, and perhaps the most magnificent of the early period 
 in which it was founded. On entering the church at the west 
 front, one is struck with the grandeur of that general effect 
 peculiar to the inside of Gothic churches ; but very few possess 
 
442 PORTUGAL 
 
 that property to a higher degree than this. In examining the 
 origin of the religious structures of the twelfth century, we 
 find the greater part of them have been founded in grateful 
 remembrance of some divine favour in battle, or else with a 
 view to expiate the sins of the founder ; so that they may not 
 be improperly called the temples of gratitude and repentance. 
 This magnificent structure is indebted for its origin to the 
 former cause." 
 
 The length of the church from the great western door to 
 the high altar is estimated to be three hundred feet ; but the 
 apparent distance is considerably more, on account of the 
 narrowness of the nave, and the regular succession of the 
 pillars, which are twenty-six in number, that is, thirteen at 
 each side. The choir is of a semicircular form, after the 
 manner of the ancient churches or basilics ; which the Ahh6 
 Fleury supposes to have been made in that manner by the 
 Christians, to imitate tha,t part of the Jewish temples where 
 the Sanhedrim assembled. The glory over the Ionic and 
 Corinthian columns of the altar is certainly in bad taste, not- 
 withstanding its magnificent display of gilding and silver orna- 
 ments ; nor do the large images of St. Benedict and St. 
 Bernard on the north and south sides of the choir, in var- 
 nished wood, appear to be in happier accordance with the 
 character of the building. The Gothic work, as continues 
 Mr. Murphy, which formerly decorated the choir, is now con- 
 cealed by Grecian columns, with their appendages. This 
 alteration was made about eighteen years ago by an English 
 sculptor named William Elsden, at the request of the friars. 
 Nothing can be more disgusting to every admirer of antiquity, 
 or indeed any man of the least taste, than this jumble of 
 Grecian work, patched up in the most striking part of a struc- 
 ture executed in the simple Gothic manner. Some years 
 since there were two organs on either side of the screen to the 
 choir; but those were burnt by the French. On the south 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 443 
 
 side, however, a small organ has been recently erected. The 
 arch of the roof between the choir and the nave was destroyed 
 also by the French ; but it has been lately restored in good 
 stone-work. 
 
 The north and south transepts have, to the unprofessional 
 eye, a more imposing appearance even than the nave, owing 
 to their aisles being built out on either side to the height of 
 between thirty and forty feet. The arches of the doorways 
 leading into the sacristy, and a small chapel which is imme- 
 diately opposite, are supported by the trunks of trees, repre- 
 sented in stone-work, instead of the usual columns, and which 
 are tied together with knots at the point where the branches 
 meet and cross each other. All the gold and silver utensils 
 belonging to the sacristy and the service of the high altar 
 were carried away and melted down by the French com- 
 manded by Drouet, under Massena's order. We were shown, 
 however, in the sanctuary, a silver sacrarium over the altar, 
 containing numerous niches occupied by the busts and relics 
 of saints, richly gilt ; but even these, with the beautiful shrine- 
 work in fine mosaic, did not altogether escape the Vandal 
 violations of the French. A rich and curious specimen of the 
 ancient art of embroidery is still preserved in the communion 
 cloth used on the occurrence of the greater holidays. 
 
 Upon the right-hand side of the south transept, we found 
 the Gothic mausoleum of hewn stone, noticed by Murphy, in 
 the centre of which are two magnificent sepulchres of white 
 marble, containing the remains of Peter I. and Ignes de Castro. 
 A recumbent effigy of each, as he says, the size of life, is placed 
 on their respective tombs ; by which the former is represented 
 with a long beard, a severe countenance, and in the act of 
 drawing his sword. The latter is represented with a beautiful 
 innocent countenance, dressed in royal robes, and adorned 
 with the diadem. Here, too, the irreverence of the French for 
 departed greatness has prompted them to acts of insult and 
 
444 PORTUGAL 
 
 mutilation. The scriptural subjects represented, according to 
 the Romish faith, upon the sides of these tombs, and the fine 
 Gothic stone-work, remain in some parts uninjured, and are 
 very beautiful ; but the French soldiers, finding that their 
 efforts to remove the effigies from the tombs were inefi^ectual, 
 made large holes in various parts in order to ascertain whether 
 the monks had not concealed treasures in them. There are 
 several other royal tombs in this sepulchral sacella, more or 
 less injured, of which the fragments are carefully preserved. 
 The three pointed windows, the capitals of the columns, and 
 particularly the two pillars in the centre, which support the 
 groined roof, are all marvels in architectural taste and skill. 
 
 On the east side of the south transept, there is a tawdry 
 representation of the death of St. Bernard, who is lying in ex- 
 tremis, and embracing a crucifix. Upon one side of the picture, 
 a choir of angels, with guitars, dulcimers, and bassoons, are 
 seen assisting at the awful moment ; monks of the order, form- 
 ing a circle at the end of his bed ; and above, on a cloud 
 supported by seraphs, the Virgin Mother of God, dressed in 
 purple and scarlet robes profusely gilt ; two angels are kneel- 
 ing on either side with books of music open, while four arch- 
 angels in superb dresses play upon violins, and two appear in 
 the heavens holding a crown suspended over Nossa Senhora's 
 head. The execution of this picture is quite upon a par with 
 the painter's conception of his subject. Alphonso II. and III. 
 are buried in this transept. 
 
 A grand flight of steps leads from the west side of the south 
 transept to the collegiate part of the building, or what were 
 once the apartments of the novices ; but the school and dor- 
 mitories exist no more, having been burnt and destroyed by 
 the French, and what now remains is in a state of utter ruin 
 and desolation. In the choir the fathers drew our attention to 
 a beautifully illuminated missal, the borders of which were 
 composed of fruits and flowers, the colours and the gilding 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 445 
 
 being in a fine state of preservation. The squares of the initial 
 letters are enriched with a variety of subjects. It was exe- 
 cuted at Coimbra by direction of the general of the order, so 
 recently, we were informed, as 1755. The large missal, con- 
 taining the services in celebration of the first martyrs, and 
 commencing with the death of Stephen, is still superior to the 
 other in richness and delicacy of execution. 
 
 The chapter-room, which opens into the cloisters, is not to 
 be compared with that which so strongly challenged our 
 admiration at Batalha. The number of the monks is at pre- 
 sent reduced to fifty. Their dead are buried in the cloisters, 
 in their habits only; and we remarked that many of the grave- 
 stones recorded singly the dates of ten or twelve interments, 
 with merely the initials of the names of the deceased. 
 
 The square garden in the centre of the cloisters is planted 
 with cypresses, orange trees, and a variety of beautiful shrubs, 
 and contains the fountain which supplies water to the lavatoire 
 immediately in front of the refectory. The brazen caldron 
 taken from the Spaniards is still preserved, with great care, 
 on the south side, with the following lines affixed, which 
 record its history, and declare the value set upon its posses- 
 sion : — 
 
 Hie est ille lebes, toto cantatus in orbe, 
 Quern Lusitani duro gens aspera bello, 
 De Castellanis spolium memorabile castris 
 Eripufere ; cibos hie olim coxerat hostis. 
 At nunc est nostri testis sine fine triumphi. 
 
 At the western extremity of the cloisters, large folding doors 
 open into a plain though fine state apartment, called the 
 Chamber of the Kings, statues of whom are placed on consoles 
 round the room ; and on a pedestal, over a raised platform, is 
 a representation of Alphonso Henriquez, the founder of the 
 monastery, receiving the crown of Portugal from the Pope 
 and St. Bernard. The history of the miraculous founda- 
 tion of the building is described upon coloured tiles, which 
 
446 PORTUGAL 
 
 cover its surbase. Over the refectory door is inscribed on a 
 tablet of stone, " Respicite, quia peccata populi comeditis." 
 According to Murphy this dining apartment is ninety-two 
 feet long by sixty-eight broad ; the breadth is divided into 
 three porticos by two series of stone columns. The tables are 
 placed next the two side and end walls. At the extreme end, 
 where the prior takes his seat, are two large pictures ; the one 
 representing the last supper, the other Christ and the two 
 disciples at Emmaus. There is a large picture also on the 
 inside, over the entrance door, of St. Bernard giving away 
 alms to the poor ; and on the north side of the hall an elevated 
 pulpit, from which on meat days the life of the saint, whose 
 invocation is observed, is read aloud during the continuance of 
 the meal. 
 
 The high-table is occupied by the general of the order and 
 the prior of the convent alone, their messes being placed at a 
 considerable distance fi-om each other. The name of the pre- 
 sent general is Antonio Tordella ; that of the prior, Hippolito 
 da Cunha. Upon the death of a brother, a white cross on a 
 piece of black cloth, with a statement of his name and the 
 date of bis decease, is affixed for the space of one month to 
 the table-cloth in front of the seat which he was accustomed 
 to occupy, and during that time the whole of one person's 
 daily allowance of food is distributed among the poor. The 
 large piece of wood which was formerly struck against the 
 doors of the cells to announce the departure of a brother's 
 soul, is still preserved in the cloisters. 
 
 Strangers are accommodated in the north-west wing of the 
 monastery ; and hence it has received the name of hospitium, 
 or hospedario. The whole extent, which is 230 feet, was 
 formerly distributed into stately and convenient apartments. 
 This part of the monastery was also burnt by the French, and 
 is at present covered with a temporary roof, and divided into 
 rooms for the reception of visitors by thin partitions of wood ; 
 by far the greater portion, however, remains the mere wreck 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 447 
 
 of its former magnificence. The sleeping rooms have no 
 ceilings. Still the hospitality of the brotherhood, with their 
 dilapidated building, diminished revenues, and the burden of 
 heavy exactions, is as warm, liberal, and generous as at the 
 best days of their ancient wealth and splendour. 
 
 Their domains were formerly of very considerable extent ; 
 and we are informed that, at the moment the royal founder 
 vowed to build the monastery, he endowed it with all the land 
 and sea that can be seen from the summit of a neighbouring 
 mountain, which commands a wide horizon. The abbot- 
 general presides over the society as chief, and has no spiritual 
 superior in the kingdom. In addition to these privileges, he 
 possesses episcopal dignity ; that of being the Esmoler M6r, 
 or grand almoner to the king; and, as is added by Murphy, is 
 the chief of all the monasteries and nunneries of the Bernar- 
 dine order in Portugal. 
 
 However curtailed their property may be at present, these 
 monks, who never appear in public except on mules or in 
 carriages, seem still to have everything within their own 
 power ; in the convent, spacious cloisters and long corridors, 
 so essentially useful in a hot climate for the enjoyment of 
 exercise as well as for religious meditation ; an extensive right 
 of fishery on the coast ; a large rabbit warren attached to the 
 building ; fine productive gardens and orchards ; capital pas- 
 tures, vineyards, and olive plantations ; mills for grinding their 
 own corn ; and a large range of stabling for their numerous 
 mules and cattle. An apothecary resides in the house, and is 
 paid by the fraternity, who give medicines gratis to the poor 
 sick of the neighbourhood, in addition to many other charities. 
 The cellar is a noble vaulted apartment, and contains some 
 enormously large tuns, the whole of which are said to hold 
 nearly seven hundred pipes of wine. The manufactories of 
 cambric and fine linen established here by Pombal no longer 
 exist. 
 
448 PORTUGAL 
 
 " The kitchen," according to Murphy, " is near an hundred 
 feet long by twenty-two broad, and sixty-three feet high from 
 the floor to the intrados of the vault. The fire-place is twenty- 
 eight feet long by eleven broad, and is placed, not in the wall, 
 but in the centre of the floor ; so that there is access to it at 
 every side. The chimney forms a pyramid resting upon eight 
 columns of cast iron. A subterranean stream of water passes 
 through the centre of the floor, which is occasionally made to 
 overflow the pavement in order to cleanse it. The operations 
 in it are carried on under the inspection of one of the lay- 
 brothers." A great deal too much oil is used in the prepara- 
 tion of their dishes to suit the fastidious delicacy of an English 
 traveller. 
 
 The library is a beautiful room, of modern construction, and 
 overlooks the garden. Considerable taste is displayed in its 
 decorations, and in the arrangement of the books. A light 
 open gallery runs along its two sides above the lower tier of 
 windows. Its length may be about two hundred and twenty 
 palmos, and including the two cabinets at either extremity, two 
 hundred and ninety-six ; its breadth is said to be fifty-five 
 palmos and a half, and the height thirty-eight. The length of 
 the library at Mafra is three hundred and eighty-one palmos, 
 and its breadth only forty-three ; therefore it exceeds that of 
 Alcobafa in its length one hundred and sixty-one palmos, and 
 is inferior to it in breadth by twelve. The books are confided 
 to the care of a very intelligent person, from whom we expe- 
 rienced great civility and attention. The collection is modern 
 and respectable, but a great number of the volumes, they tell 
 us, have never found their way back to the shelves from the 
 safe custody of those persons to whom they were intrusted 
 during the occupation of the country by the French. In the 
 centre of the ceiling is a very tolerable representation of St. 
 Bernard, in an oval frame, seated at a table with a pen in his 
 hand, and occupied in profound thought. The key of the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 449 
 
 manuscript room, which is said to be rich in original works 
 relative to the history of the kingdom, as of that in which the 
 books proscribed by the Pope are carefully withheld from the 
 inspection of the monks, the priorkept in his own possession, 
 and neither were to be procured. The once celebrated 
 archives, formerly preserved here with the greatest care, were 
 taken away by the Spaniards when they conquered Portugal, 
 and were carried to the Escurial. 
 
 We were shown among the books an Oxford Pindar of 
 1697 ; a beautiful edition of Virgil in two volumes, by Dulau, 
 Lond. 1800; a Glasgow Homer, 1756, given by Lord Strath- 
 more and Cavalheiro Pitt, after their first visit to the monas- 
 tery in 1760; a large folio volume, Physica Sacra, 1793, the 
 gift of the late Duke of Northumberland, on the exterior of 
 whose leaves are represented the different seats belonging to 
 the family ; a copy of Mickle's Lusiad, presented from London 
 with an inscription, December 14, 1791, by Lady H. Frances 
 O'Neill, " in grateful acknowledgment of many and repeated 
 attentions from the IU^°^ R^s Sn"^^^ Religiozos de San Bernardo 
 em Alcobaga," and stating that " Mickle's translation has 
 made known to the nations of the north the sublime ideas and 
 delicate varieties in expression of the original author, whom 
 she esteems a second Homer." The more recent gifts are 
 Ackerman's History of Westminster, 1812, and the French 
 edition of the Lusiad in the original Portuguese, by Don Jose 
 Maria de Souza, 1817. 
 
 But, at the present moment, by far the most interesting 
 volume to us in the whole collection of presentation copies to 
 the library, is that transmitted some few years since from 
 England by Mr. Canning, in acknowledgment of hospitalities 
 received from the worthy fathers of the monastery. The 
 following inscription in his own hand-writing is faithfully 
 copied, and you will doubtless preserve it as an interesting 
 relic — 
 
 Port. 2 F 
 
4.^o0 
 
 PORTUGAL 
 
 Dat. Londiiii 
 Mense Sept. 
 
 MDCCCXVII. 
 
 In Memoriam 
 
 Magnificentissimi hospitii 
 
 Quo a Sanctis Alcobaca; ccenobitis acceptiis est 
 
 Dierumque apud eos laute beateque actorum, 
 
 Mense Martii A. S. H. 1816. 
 
 Librum huncce 
 
 Bibliothecae Alcobacanae adscribendum 
 
 gratse recordationis testimonium 
 
 Mittit 
 
 Georgius Canning. 
 
 ARCH OF THE WESTERN ENTRANCE TO AN OLD CHAPEL 
 
 AT LEIRTA. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 451 
 
 LETTER XVI. 
 
 Yet Mafra stall one moment claim delay, 
 Where dwelt of yore the Lusian's luckless queen. 
 And church and Cowct did mingle their array ; 
 And mass and revel were alternate seen. 
 Lordlings and freres — ill-sorted fry I ween. 
 But here the Babylonian whore hath built 
 A dome, where flaunts she in such glorious sheen, 
 That men forget the blood which she hath spilt. 
 And bow the knee to pomp that loves to varnish guilt. 
 
 Childe Harold, 
 
 Mafra, 1827. 
 
 The road from Alcobafa to Caldas da Rainha passes through 
 A Charnais and Selirdo Mato, the distance between the two 
 places being about four leagues. Leaving the hospitable bre- 
 thren of the monastery with many mutual saudades, for we had 
 become excellent friends with the whole fraternity, whom we 
 found both cheerful and obliging, we continued our journey 
 towards Lisbon. The route at first led up a steep ascent, to 
 the north-west of the old castle, erected on a detached eminence 
 above the town, in front of the convent, as a defence against 
 the incursions of the Moors, and brought us to a quinta be- 
 longing to the convent, in the gardens of which we observed a 
 
452 PORTUGAL 
 
 large oriental palm-tree growing in the greatest luxuriance, and 
 contiguous to them extensive vineyards, and orchards, whose 
 ruddy fruits would have corresponded with the aspirations of 
 the poet — ■ 
 
 Bear me, Pomona, to thy citron groves ; 
 To where the lemon and the piercing lime. 
 With the deep orange glowing through the green, 
 
 Their lighter glories bend . 
 
 Thomson. 
 
 About two leagues from Alcobaf a, on the summit of a hill, 
 two roads branch off in different directions, both however ter- 
 minating at Caldas ; but that lying to the left hand, which is 
 the regular route, and runs under the Serra, being represented, 
 to us as hilly and bad, we took the lower one to the right, and 
 passed down a steep descent to Alfizeirao, where we found 
 the remains of a Moorish castle. The origin of this name, as 
 well as of others commencing with " al," such as Alverninha, 
 Aljubarrota, Alhandra, Alcanhede, Alraonde, is apparently to 
 be referred to the language of the Moors. The character of 
 the district over which we now travelled, is faithfully described 
 by Link. To the eastward of San Martinho, (a small sea-port, 
 lately restored to the purposes of commerce through the skilful 
 removal of the accumulated sands from the mouth of the Rio 
 Doras by the engineer Luiz Gomes de Garvalho,) a chain of 
 sand-stone hills runs parallel to the sea. The summits and 
 western declivities are naked, but the eastern sides are covered 
 with frequent and considerable pine-woods. The country 
 also becomes more mountainous. This place is two leagues 
 from Caldas, over low hills, and through a sandy country and 
 pine-woods. Close to the sea, rise hills consisting of sand- 
 stone and lime-stone, with a small quantity of gypsum. 
 
 We arrived at Caldas by moonlight, and found comfortable 
 accommodations in an estalagem kept by an Irish woman, 
 whose charges for board and lodging by the day are no more 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 453 
 
 than the quarter of a moidore, or about two crusados and a 
 half. The markets are cheap here, notwithstanding the influx 
 of company at this season. For a brace of partridges we paid 
 less than two shillings, and about the same price for a couple 
 of chickens ; meat, vegetables, and bread, being equally cheap 
 in proportion. Caldas is famous for its sulphureous waters, 
 the seasons for using which occur in May and September. 
 Considering its small extent, there is perhaps no country which 
 so much abounds with hot and mineral springs, particularly 
 the former, as Portugal. During the time of the Romans, the 
 province of Lusitania was much celebrated for its numerous 
 baths. The frequent vestiges which are to be seen of their 
 thermal establishments in various parts of the provinces, attest 
 the high degree of estimation in which these sanative waters 
 were held by the masters of the world. The waters now in the 
 greater repute, are those of Caldellas de Rendufe and Caldas 
 do Gerez, Caldas de Vizellas and Caldas de Santo Antonio, in 
 the Minho; Carla6, Caldas de Favaios, de Porraes or de 
 Murpa, in the Tras os Montes ; Alcafache, Santa Gemil or 
 Lagiosa, and San Pedro do Sul in the Beira ; in Estremadura 
 Caldas da Rainha is principally resorted to ; and in the Al- 
 garve, Monchique. There are nine or ten watering places in 
 the Alemtejo, but they are not held in such high estimation 
 as those already noticed above. 
 
 It is the fashion still for the Portuguese to go to Caldas da 
 Rainha, as it was when Link visited the country. The 
 wealthier part of the community, after passing the hot months 
 in the cool refreshing atmosphere of Cintra, travel hither to 
 while away the autumnal months, before they return to their 
 residences in the capital. The public walk, however, seems 
 very dull ; the area is far too contracted, and the surface being 
 covered with sand instead of gravel, no great temptations on 
 the score of convenience and agreeableness are held out to 
 visitors to make it their promenade. The bathing-house. 
 
454 PORTUGAL 
 
 situated in the centre of the town, is immediately opposite to 
 the public walk, and contains a hospital for the poorer class of 
 invalids, an apothecary's shop, and a pump-room, where 
 water used for drinking is supplied. A stone tablet, affixed 
 to the wall, records that the building was erected by the 
 orders of Queen Leonora, wife of John 11. in 1488, and wholly 
 rebuilt by John V., 1747. 
 
 Besides the spring used for drinking, three others supply four 
 baths, as formerly stated by Link : that for the men is 36 feet 
 long by 9 broad, and 2 feet 8 inches deep. The soil is covered 
 with a white clay and washed sand. The company undress be- 
 hind a curtain, put on bathing clothes, and sit upon the ground 
 in the bath, so that the water reaches their necks. There are 
 frequently twelve patients in the bath at the same time, and 
 though the water is constantly flowing, it is unpleasant to be 
 obliged to bathe in company, especially to those who come last, 
 to whom the water arrives after washing the rest. It is also 
 unpleasant that strangers are admitted. Nothing, however, is 
 paid for bathing, except a small present to the attendants. 
 The poor are not suffered to bathe till about noon, when the 
 other company are gone. The rest of the baths, even those 
 appropriated to the ladies, are regulated in a similar manner ; 
 except that the water in the bath for the men is the hottest 
 and of the strongest quality. The water from all the springs 
 joins and turns a mill near the bathing-house. 
 
 The country round, as described also by Link, is well culti- 
 vated, but sandy and full of pine-woods. The place itself is 
 situated on the western brow of hills very much flattened, con- 
 sisting of a soft brownish sand-stone containing iron, and proba- 
 bly covering coal, from the combustion of which the heat of the 
 water may arise. The sea is only three leagues distant, and 
 the lake, or Lagoa de Obidos, one league. This vicinity of the 
 sea, and the flatness of the country, are the causes of the 
 strong and cold winds which prevair here, particularly in 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 455 
 
 spring, and of changeable weather. The heat also in summer 
 is uncommonly great. 
 
 The distance from Caldas to Obidos is about one league 
 through a district more productive, varied, and agreeable, than 
 that through which we had lately passed, Obidos is situated 
 on the Rio Arnoya, which empties itself into the lake. Among 
 the antiquities which have been found here, are the remains 
 of a Roman aqueduct, the greater portion of the arches of 
 which are still to be seen. The town itself is built round the 
 sides of a hill, and is of no great extent. Its ancient walls are 
 still in a state of perfect preservation. We took a cursory 
 .view of the place in passing, and found the streets narrow and 
 gloomy, many houses in a state of ruin, and tilth and dirt as 
 abundant as in every town of Portugal, with the few excep- 
 tions which have already been made. Our road now led us 
 through a deep sandy district, with pine-woods and extensive 
 Jieaths succeeding each other, and very scanty appearances of 
 cultivation. Nothing could be more dull and monotonous than 
 the whole of this route, until we reached the base of the hills 
 which run behind the village of Roli$;o, when all our national feel- 
 ings were awakened upon viewing the field of battle where Bri- 
 tish heroes commanded by Wellington had bled and conquered. 
 
 " Immediately on quitting the village," according to Colonel 
 Jones's authentic narrative, " the niain road passes over a 
 range of heights^ the front of which commencing on the right 
 of the road, and extending far to the left, is perfectly precipit- 
 ous, a few narrow difficult tracks alone communicating over it. 
 General Laborde, who had been driven out of the village, 
 halted on the summit of the ridge, looking down upon the 
 British in the plain beneath. To dislodge him without the 
 loss which would certainly attend an attack in front, General 
 Ferguson, with 3000 men, was directed to turn his right, and 
 a Portuguese corps of 1200 men was directed to penetrate to 
 his rear by a wide movement on his left; columns under 
 Major-generals. Hill, Craufurd, Nightingall, and Fane, being 
 
456 PORTUGAL 
 
 in the meanwhile assembled in the plain, to rush up the passes 
 as soon as he should be shaken. Either the march of the 
 flanking corps occupied a longer time than was calculated, or 
 the attack in front was made earlier than intended, as the 
 passes were forced before the enemy discovered the danger 
 which threatened his rear. The 9th and 29th regiments first 
 formed upon the summit ; General Laborde made three des- 
 perate but unsuccessful efforts to dislodge them ; when the 
 other troops coming up, he hastily retired on Torres Vedras, 
 being unable, notwithstanding a superiority of cavalry, to carry 
 off his artillery. From the very great strength of the ground, 
 this success cost the victors nearly 400 in killed and wounded. 
 
 " Sir Arthur Wellesley did not pursue the retreating force 
 on a road which would have led him distant from the sea, but 
 moved to his right, to open a communication with the fleet, and 
 cover the landing of the expected reinforcements from England ; 
 and on the 20th occupied Vimieiro, near to which 4000 men 
 under Major-General Anstruther disembarked and united with 
 his force. 
 
 " Vimieiro stands nearly at the bottom of a valley, at the 
 eastern extremity of a considerable height, which extends 
 westward to the sea ; and on the opposite side of the valley 
 to the eastward are other heights, over which passes the com- 
 munication to Lourinha. In advance of the town is a plateau, 
 or table-hill, more elevated than the ground in its immediate 
 front, but which is completely looked down upon from the 
 heights on its right and left. The army having halted at Vi- 
 mieiro for one night only, and not expecting to be attacked, 
 was disposed as most convenient to the troops. Six brigades 
 occupied the height to the westward of the town ; one batta- 
 lion, with some light troops, was posted on the plateau ; the 
 cavalry and reserve artillery were in the valley ; and on the 
 hills to the eastward were merely piquets of observation. 
 
 ♦' At eight in the morning of the 21st, strong bodies of the 
 enemy were observed moving on the road of Lourinha, show- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 467 
 
 ing an evident intention of attacking the left of the British ; to 
 meet which, four brigades were successively moved across the 
 valley, from the hill on the westward to the hills on the east- 
 ward of Vimieiro ; the force on the plateau was augmented, 
 and the remaining brigades were moved nearer to its support. 
 Then in line of battle the right was near the sea, but screened 
 from a view of it by intervening heights; the centre was 
 posted on the rising ground in front of the town, and the left 
 on the hills to the eastward. The action commenced by the 
 advance of a heavy close column against the centre. Exposed 
 to a destructive fire of artillery, it steadily approached within 
 a few paces of the 50th regiment formed in line, which re- 
 ceived it with a volley, and instantly rushing to the charge, 
 threw it into the utmost confusion ; whilst General Acland's 
 brigade, which was in march from the right to the left, attacked 
 it in flank ; the cavalry completed its rout, and seven pieces 
 of artillery remained in the valley. 
 
 *' The attack on the Lourinha road was nearly simultaneous 
 with that of the centre. The French advanced with imposing 
 boldness, but were checked by the steadiness of General Fer- 
 guson's brigade, which was in first line, till the arrival of the 
 other brigades ; when, after a sharp contest, they were driven 
 back with the loss of many men and six guns. Thus twenty- 
 one pieces of artillery remained on the field, though the 
 defeated force had a superiority of five times the number of 
 cavalry. Their loss in men was likewise very considerable. 
 That of the British was under 700 in killed and wounded. 
 
 " This was a grand effort made by Marshal Junot, with 
 nearly all the disposable force he could collect, about 12,000 
 infantry and 1200 cavalry. After the action, he halted in the 
 defiles of Torres Vedras, hoping by negociation to extricate 
 himself from the perilous situation ia which his defeat had 
 placed him. An officer accordingly was commissioned to 
 negociate with the victors a convention for the evacuation of 
 
458 PORTUGAL 
 
 Portugal by the French army. Sir Harry Burrard had landed 
 during the action, and Sir Hew Dalrymple the morning fol- 
 lowing. A suspension of hostilities was arranged, and a pro- 
 visional agreement signed, in which it was stipulated that the 
 French army, amounting to 24,000 men, should not in any 
 case be considered as prisoners of war; that all the individuals 
 composing it should be transported to France, with their arms 
 and baggage, and all their private property, from which no* 
 thing should be excepted. Notwithstanding the subsequent 
 arrival of the expected reinforcements under Sir J. Moore, 
 Sir H, Dalrymple, with a good faith creditable to his country, 
 ratified the definitive convention on the stipulated basis. The 
 indignation of the populace of Lisbon at seeing their oppressors 
 embark, laden with the pillage of their churches, and carrying 
 off in safety the fruits of their rapine and extortion, could only 
 be repressed by the interposition of a British force. By a 
 modification of the original agreement, made at the instigation 
 of Admiral Sir C. Cotton, eight Russian sail of the line were 
 taken possession of to remain in England during the war ; the 
 crews enjoying the full benefit of the convention, and being 
 sent to Russia." 
 
 " In England as well as in Portugal, the Convention was 
 generally deprecated, and the dissatisfaction felt by the go- 
 vernment led to an investigation of its merits by a court of 
 general ofiicers ; from the proceedings of which, and the ex- 
 perience of subsequent campaigns, it may be inferred that the 
 interests of the peninsula were consulted, by entering on a 
 treaty for the liberation of Portugal ; and that the Convention 
 of Cintra would have been highly advantageous to the patriot's 
 cause, had such conditions been imposed by the victors as 
 their advantageous position rendered equitable, and would 
 doubtless have commanded." 
 
 We now passed over an elevated plain, either covered with 
 heath- or with a species of low myrtle, the fragrance of which. 
 
'ffifi' i'ni[iriH,|ii|(iPl)ti*jvMWV*(i|fm^isii. *^J ,* 
 
 1 *? 
 
 11 1 
 
 
 'K 
 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 459 
 
 as it was bruised under the feet of the mules, proved extremely 
 grateful to the senses. The heat of the day compelled us to 
 remain some hours at the Casa Nova, a house of accommoda- 
 tion, recently estabhshed, as the name imports, on a height 
 which commands the long range of hills on either side of Tor- 
 res Vedras, in the direction of the sea towards Maceira, and 
 of the long line of heights which were fortified by Wellington, 
 and which terminate upon the Tagus at Alhandra. In this 
 solitary house we found more comforts than in many of the 
 estalagems into which we had ventured. Our host possessed 
 both flocks and herds; his kitchen-garden already supplied 
 his family with vegetables; and his small apiary, though rudely 
 Constructed, afforded delicious honey. The breed of bees is 
 entirely discouraged in the wine countries, owing to the injury 
 which they are known to do the young blossoms of the vine. 
 The shape of the Portuguese hives in general is cylindrical. 
 Their height may be about twenty-seven inches, and their 
 diameter fourteen. They are formed out of the rind of the cork 
 tree, and are usually covered with a flat piece of cork wood, 
 or with a pan of earthenware inverted, the edge of which pro- 
 jects over the hive like a cornice, for its protection against rain. 
 The whole is fastened with pegs made of some hard and 
 durable wood, and the joints are stopped with peat. In the 
 front of this cylindrical hive, at the height of about eight 
 inches, there is a small aperture left for the admission of the 
 bees. There seems to be no peculiar management, as far as we 
 have obiserved, of the bees in Portugal, and consequently there 
 is no necessity for our entering into any further details about 
 them. Here we dressed our partridges, and found some very 
 tolerable wine, and departed much pleased with the honesty 
 and industrious habits of our host and his family, so unlike the 
 Portuguese in general, and so much resembling the moun- 
 taineers of Switzerland. 
 - The road led over a wide waste of heath to the skirts of a 
 
460 PORTUGAL 
 
 pine-wood, through which we descended into the valley of 
 Torres Vedras, which is watered by the Rio Sizandro. The 
 town, formerly the seat of a Roman government, as its Latin 
 name "Turres Veteres" corrupted into the modern appellation 
 denotes, is small, and surrounds a hill on which are the ruins 
 of an ancient castle. The interior by no means corresponds 
 with the expectations formed of its extent, when seen from a 
 distance. It is still the chief town of the district. The sur- 
 rounding country is pleasant and well cultivated, and abounds 
 with gardens and vineyards. On one side sand-mountains 
 and pine-woods soon again begin, while on the other are only 
 grey lime-stone hills covered with coppice. At the foot of 
 these rises a luke-warm spring containing some carbonic acid 
 gas. Coal is also found here in a stratum of clay. The plain 
 and sides of the surrounding heights are fertile and productive 
 in corn and wine. To the north-west of the town are seen the 
 arches of a handsome aqueduct. As described in the brief 
 narrative of Bradford, at " Torres Vedras there is a fortress of 
 considerable extent on a hill overhanging the town, which 
 marks it as having been a place of no little importance during 
 the time of the Moors ; but some vestiges of Roman work- 
 manship which appear among its ruins, establish its claims to 
 higher antiquity. The eminence on which this fortress is 
 constructed, round a mound, is a singular feature in the land- 
 scape. Unconnected, isolated, it presents the appearance of 
 an artificial mound, raised above the plain for the purpose of 
 defence. Being commanded by a range of hills, which envi- 
 ron the town and adjacent plain, it is now in a military point 
 of view a position of little importance." 
 
 We were now on the left of the British lines, which occu- 
 pied a tract of country of thirty miles, extending from the 
 mouth of the Zizandra on the ocean to Alhandra on the Tagus, 
 and which " was modelled," as Colonel Jones states, " into a. 
 field of battle. Lisbon being situated at the extremity of a 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 461 
 
 peninsula formed by the sea and the Tagus, it is apparent 
 that, if an army be so posted as to extend across the neck of 
 the peninsula, no enemy can penetrate to that city without a 
 direct attack in front of the army so formed. It was on this 
 principle that the lines covering Lisbon were planned by Lord 
 Wellington. Nature drew the rude outline of a strong de- 
 fensive position, and art rendered it perfect. Mountains were 
 scarped perpendicularly, rivers dammed, and inundations 
 formed ; all roads favourable to the enemy were destroyed, 
 and others made to facilitate the communications of the de- 
 fenders ; formidable works were erected to strengthen and 
 support the weak points ; whilst numerous cannon, planted 
 on inaccessible posts, commanded the different approaches to 
 them, and gave an equality of defence to the whole position. 
 Nor was any labour or expedient omitted, to render it equally 
 favourable for offensive movements. Such was the ground to 
 which the army made its last retrograde movement on the 
 8th of October, 1810, and where on the following morning it 
 was joined by 6,000' Spanish troops, under the Marquis de la 
 Romana." 
 
 We have already accompanied the French army, after the 
 battle on the Serra de Busaco, which Lord Wellington was com- 
 pelled to abandon on account of the position being turned, to 
 Coimbra, from which place " Massena," Colonel Jones conti^ 
 nues, " pushed across the Mondego in the full confidence of 
 success ; and his cavalry and advanced guard, on the afternoon 
 of the 10th, drove the allies out of Sobral, whence he first 
 discovered the formidable works which covered his antago- 
 nists. To judge from the instant halt which he made, and the 
 retrograde movement which followed as soon as it became 
 dark, they struck him as much with dismay as astonishment, 
 and three days elapsed before he again ventured to the same 
 'spot. On the main road to Lisbon, Zibriera, where the works 
 thrown up were fewer than on the other parts of the line, it 
 
462 PORTUGAL 
 
 being intended as a manoeuvring position for the main body of 
 the army, he pushed his piquets into contact with those of the 
 allies. In adjusting their posts, a sharp skirmish took place, 
 and every thing denoted a meditated attack. But, at length, 
 on the night of the 14th of November, the French army, after 
 remaining a month without any movement, broke up from its 
 bivouac, and retired into cantonments in the district round 
 Thomar," a comarca town, situated on the right of the Rio Na- 
 bao, in a beautiful plain which abounds with olive and other 
 fruit trees, and not far from the ruins of the Roman Nabancia. 
 The modern " villa" was built by Don Galdim Paez, grand mas- 
 ter of the order of Knights Templars, towards the year 1 145, a 
 short time after the institution of the order of Christ. In 1338 
 King Denis and Pope John XXII. assigned to its members the 
 possessions of the Templars, suppressed in 1312. The grand 
 Prior of this order resides here in a large conventual building. 
 
 " To secure these cantonments, Massena's advance was in» 
 trenched in the strong position of Santarem, behind the Rio- 
 Mayor, and a post was made at Punhete in its rear, with a 
 bridge across the Zezere ; his left was naturally covered by 
 the Tagus, and the right, which was open and exposed to the 
 attacks of the irregulars, was protected by the cavalry." 
 
 Santarem is a large town about fourteen leagues from Lisbon, 
 and is situated upon a height which overlooks a wide plain 
 much exposed, as well as the lower part of the town, in winter 
 to the inundations of the Tagug. A considerable part of the 
 ancient walls of its citadel, with the additions of Alphonso VI., 
 still remains in good preservation. In the time of the Romans 
 it was known under the name of Scalabis, or Praesidium Ju- 
 lium ; and at later periods became the scene of frequent 
 combats between the Christians and the Moors, and subsCT 
 quently the residence of several of the Portuguese sovereigns^ 
 It contains a chapter of the canons of the order of Avis. Its 
 commercial communications with Lisbon are. very important. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 463 
 
 and form the chief source of its wealth. The village of Rio 
 Mayor, which is included within its jurisdiction, possesses a 
 manufactory of salt, while that of Azinheira chiefly supplies 
 the country with gun-flints. 
 
 " Tlie allied army followed the movements of the French 
 upon their retreat, and when they halted at Santarem, made a 
 demonstration of attacking that post, to ascertain if a final 
 retreat was intended, or only a change of position. The 
 enemy standing firm, the columns of attack were recalled, and 
 the troops were placed in cantonments at Cartaxo, (head- 
 quarters,) Alcoentre, Azambuja, &c., in readiness to fall back 
 on the lines, should the French be reinforced, or otherwise 
 quietly to remain under cover during the winter, prepared to 
 take advantage of the movements which want of subsistence 
 must ultimately impose upon the enemy, the foresight of which 
 had partly led to the adoption of this Fabian defence of Por- 
 tugal. Lieutenant-general Hill's corps was at the same time, 
 in furtherance of these views, crossed over to the south of the 
 Tagus, and cantoned at Barcos, Chamusca, &c., to prevent the 
 enemy communicating with the Alemtejo, and drawing sup- 
 plies thence. The cantonments, however, to which the French 
 retired, united many great advantages, and were in all respects 
 favourable, whilst they retained the superiority, or even an 
 equality, of force to their opponents. Under the expectation 
 that the French army in the south of Spain would be able 
 to farm a junction with that in Portugal, previously to thei 
 country being exhausted, Punhete was carefully entrenched 
 by Massena, to protect an establishment formed at the mouth 
 of the Zezere; Abrantes was reconnoitred, to ascertain if 
 liable to be carried by a coup de main ; and every other under- 
 taking equally showed an anxiety to establish a communica- 
 tion across the Tagus." 
 
 Abrantes, which is considered to be the key of the Tagus 
 against Spanish incursions upon the capital, is included 
 
464 PORTUGAL 
 
 within the jurisdiction of Thomar, and stands upon the right 
 bank of the Tagus, surrounded by a beautiful and fertile 
 country. It is a town of great antiquity, and is said to have 
 enjoyed municipal rights in the time of Augustus. The prin- 
 cipal productions of the contiguous district are corn, oil, and 
 fruits, which are carried down the Tagus to the Lisbon mar- 
 kets. The church dedicated here to St. Vincent, is consi- 
 dered one of the largest and most magnificent ecclesiastical 
 structures in Portugal. 
 
 " But," to pursue Colonel Jones's narrative, " the resources of 
 the country had now been nearly consumed, and the French 
 troops, much reduced in numbers, had become very sickly and 
 dispirited. Massena could therefore -no longer with safety 
 temporize; but in the end of February, 1811, commenced his 
 arrangements to retire out of Portugal. The French advanced 
 corps withdrew from Santarem on the night of the 8th of 
 March, and the allied head-quarters were immediately trans- 
 ferred hither. After sustaining a loss of 27,000 men since he 
 had left Ciudad Rodrigo, Massena retired through Estrema- 
 dura by the same road he entered it, pursued over the fron- 
 tiers by the allied army," after having suffered in a succession 
 of combats at Pombal ; Redinha ; Miranda do Corvo ; at the 
 passage of the river Ceira ; behind the river Coa, near Sabu- 
 gal ; and after passing through Alfaiates, at Junf a ; and sub- 
 sequently at the village of Fuente de Honor, which led to his 
 abandonment of Almeida, and retreat towards Salamanca. 
 
 Castanheira ; Villa Franca, the furthest point up the Tagus 
 to which the steam-boat from Lisbon plies ; and the market 
 town of Alhandra; — all formed important points in the line of 
 fortifications established by Lord Wellington for the defence of 
 Lisbon, particularly the latter place. A second line of fortified 
 heights extended behind the other, which has been already 
 described, from the neighbourhood of Mafra to the banks of 
 the Tagus between Povoa and Iria ; whilst a formidable fleet 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 465 
 
 of gun- boats took possession of the channel of the river, and 
 prevented any meditated approach of the enemy to Lisbon by 
 water. But we must now pursue our journey to Mafra. It is 
 impossible, however, to travel over this wild district, the recol- 
 lection of which the deeds of Wellington have rendered inse- 
 parable from British history, without entering with the utmost 
 degree of interest into the minutest details of the military 
 arrangements which reflect such immortal honour on their 
 author, and no language can do them more ample justice than 
 that of the perspicuous and authentic narrative of Colonel 
 Jones : — 
 
 Sed nos immensum spatiis confecimus aequor ; 
 Et jam tempus equi^m fumantia solvere coUa. 
 
 The road from Torres Vedras to Mafra runs across a moun- 
 tainous district, presenting no other scenery than extensive 
 heaths, bounded towards the sea by pine-woods ; and deep 
 intervening vallies, which have no beauties to offer in compa- 
 rison with those of the Minho and Tras os Montes. The 
 dome and towers of the palace presented themselves a long 
 time to our view before we reached the town, which we 
 at last effected by a steep ascent under an almost inter- 
 minable line of high wall, by which the royal park, (the Ta- 
 pada de Mafra,) attached to the building, is surrounded. Here 
 we found two British regiments in garrison, the remainder of 
 our troops having been called in from their out-quarters into 
 barracks at Belem, Lisbon, and in its immediate neighbour- 
 hood. The apprehensions of the government, remarkable for 
 its weakness and vacillation, are said to have called for this 
 movement; but for what eventual purpose it is difficult to 
 comprehend, because all parties have already had it suffi- 
 ciently proved to them by the temperate and forbearing policy 
 of our ambassador and commander-in-chief, that the intentions 
 of England are not to interfere in any degree with their do- 
 Port, 2 G 
 
466 PORTUGAL 
 
 mestic question of the constitutional charter, but to leave its 
 adjustment exclusively to the Portuguese themselves. One 
 benefit derived from the presence of the British troops here, is 
 the encouragement w^hich has in consequence been given to 
 the establishment of a new and comfortable estalagem, in 
 w^hich the sitting and bed-rooms, from not having been occu- 
 pied by native travellers, have not yet lost their claims to be 
 considered on a par in point of comfort and cleanliness with 
 those usually afforded by the inns of England. It has the 
 advantage likewise of standing immediately in front of the fine 
 west facade of the royal edifice. 
 
 The extent of this noble structure is prodigious ; it contains 
 at once a palace, a convent, and a church of imposing magni- 
 tude, and it is proudly termed the Escurial of Portugal. Mafra 
 is about twenty miles north of Lisbon, and is surrounded by a 
 bleak and solitary country within view of the sea. It was 
 considered a place of great strength in the time of the Moors, 
 who built a fortress here, of which, however, no vestiges are 
 discoverable at the present day. On this spot, John V., who 
 surrendered himself to a corrupt nobility, an intriguing and 
 artful priesthood, and women of bad character, not contented 
 with the vain display of having elevated the church of Lisbon 
 into a patriarchate, to vie with that of St. Peter's at Rome, 
 employed his troops in the erection of an edifice that was to 
 eclipse by its splendour and magnificence the glories of the 
 Spanish Escurial. Its construction was confided to a foreign 
 architect ; its embellishments were completed by Dutch, 
 French, and Italian artists ; and the splendid vestments in silk 
 for the service of the priests were manufactured at Lyons. 
 The marbles, which resemble wood with work inlaid, are princi- 
 pally the productions of the mountain overlooking Cintra, and 
 of the celebrated quarry of Pero-Pinheiro. The six colossal 
 columns in red marble, of one single block, which decorate the 
 three chief altars of the church, and the large pannels of 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 467 
 
 marble, perfectly black, which adorn the lower part of the 
 side walls, justly challenge the admiration of travellers. The 
 six organs in the chapel are extremely handsome, and their 
 tones perfectly correspond with the richness of their exterior 
 ornaments. This sumptuous building might be supposed to 
 commemorate the triumph of folly, bigotry, and the inquisition. 
 The Marquess Pombal converted it to some useful purposes 
 during the reign of Joseph, and dismissed the monks ; but on 
 the death of that monarch, they were restored by an imbecile 
 and superstitious queen to the full enjoyment of all their 
 privileges of penance, fast, mass, and image-worship, within 
 the palace. At present their number is greatly reduced, and 
 their cloisters are given up for the reception of the British 
 soldiers. The greater portion of the windows have no glass 
 in them, and are closed with shutters painted red, which give 
 the whole building a most shabby appearance. 
 
 " From the nature and magnitude of this edifice," says Mr. 
 Murphy, " it may be considered as the Escurial ©f Portugal, 
 which structure the royal founder intended to emulate, and 
 the treasures which he lavished on it, if properly applied, 
 would have raised a pile much superior to the Escurial in point 
 of architecture ; but unfortunately the designer of it had 
 neither a mind to conceive, nor a hand to execute a design 
 for a glebe-house, much less a basilic and royal palace. The 
 name of this mechanic was Frederick Ludovici, a native of 
 Germany, and a goldsmith by profession. After amassing a 
 considerable fortune in executing the gold and silver utensils 
 of the patriarchal church at Lisbon, he was appointed, through 
 fevour, to design and execute this fabric." 
 
 " The plan of this edifice forms a quadrangle, measuring 
 from east to west 760 feet, and from north to south 670 feet. 
 In the centre of the west front is a sort of an Ionic hexastyle 
 portico which leads to the church ; at each side is a pavilion, 
 one for the accommodation of the royal family, the other for 
 
468 PORTUGAL 
 
 the patriarch and mitred canons. At the rear of the building 
 is a monastery with 300 cells. The library is 381 palmos 
 long by 43 broad, and is supposed to contain between 40 and 
 50,000 volumes. In the dado of the high altar are two large 
 tables of black marble, so highly polished that John V. used 
 them as looking-glasses before they were sent hither. Among 
 the ornaments of the edifice are 58 statues of Carrara marble, 
 some of which are very well executed. We may form some 
 idea of the magnitude of the whole by the number of apart- 
 ments it contains, which amount to 866 ; the doors and win- 
 dows being about 5200. The entire of this vast pile is vaulted 
 and covered over with flags, forming a platform whereby we 
 may walk over the summit of the edifice. The gardens, 
 which are at the rear, are very extensive, and, formerly, were 
 well stored with exotics imported from Asia, Africa, and Ame- 
 rica, by the founder. Father John de Prado has published a 
 particular description of the buildings of Mafra, 1751." 
 
 We cannot better perhaps conclude this account of Mafra, 
 than by sending you a sketch of the discipline used by the 
 Arrabidos monks, who have now resumed possession of their 
 cells. It is made of the threads of the American aloe, " fio 
 de pita," which are prepared only in Algarve, and particularly 
 in the neighbourhood of Loul6. The most perfect leaves being 
 selected, their juices and pulp are pressed out, when only the 
 nerves of the leaves remain, which are afterwards divided into 
 very fine threads, and these are exposed to the beams of the 
 sun for the purpose of being dried. They may be employed 
 for almost any purposes, but their most useful application is 
 decidedly in the form of a scourge to the shoulders of self- 
 chastising monks. With respect to the rosary, a few words 
 from Costigan, and this letter shall be dismissed: — "The 
 complete rosary consists of fifteen paternosters, and one hun- 
 dred and fifty ave-marias, ten of the last to each of the first ; 
 so that the whole rosary contains fifteen parts or mysteries 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 4G9 
 
 concerning the Son and the Virgin Mary. The " ter^o" is a 
 third part of the rosary. The mysteries are divided into ter- 
 foes ; the first five are called the joyful mysteries ; the second 
 five, the dolorous ; and the last, the glorious mysteries." The 
 missal contains prayers and directions for religious worship in 
 " a tongue not understanded of the people." 
 
 FRAXCISCAN DISCIPLINE, CROSS, SiC. 
 
470 PORTUGAL 
 
 LETTER XVII. 
 
 A chiel's amang you takin' note. 
 And, faith, he'll prent it. 
 
 Burns' Epitaphs. 
 
 Lisbon, 1827. 
 
 The Serra de Cintra, with the town and beautiful quintas 
 at its base, embosomed in orange and lemon groves, form 
 the grand feature in the landscape between Mafra and Lisbon. 
 The towering points crowned by the Castello dos Mouros and 
 the Penha Convent were seen to our right during the greater 
 part of the day's journey ; and, owing to the clearness of the 
 atmosphere, it appeared as if we were continually approaching 
 them, whilst in reality the distance between us remained as 
 great as ever. Time did not permit us to revisit that charm- 
 ing scenery, and therefore we were obliged to satisfy ourselves 
 with the distant prospect of the " glorious Eden," with its 
 " variegated maze of mount and glen," as we passed along 
 the road. The route, an excellent one, which was opened in 
 the reign of John V., led us through the villages of Abrunheira 
 and Pinheiro to Cabe^a de Montachique, a place of some 
 importance in the late memorable campaigns ; thence by 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 471 
 
 Loures, celebrated for its orange groves, whose fruit is said to 
 surpass all others in size and quality, to Carnide and Lumiar, 
 leaving Luz, where there is a convent belonging to the knights 
 of the order of Christ, to the right ; and hence to Campo- 
 Grande, which on Sundays and days of festivity is the usual 
 resort of the pleasure-seeking inhabitants of the metropolis. 
 From the Campo Pequeno, a plain of some extent, where the 
 troops forming the garrison of Lisbon are occasionally exer- 
 cised, the whole line of road into the city is bordered on either 
 side with the country residences and gardens of the wealthier 
 class of Portuguese. 
 
 The high commanding grounds which rise behind Lisbon, 
 are entirely covered with chapels, churches, and convents, 
 which give the traveller at a distance an idea of grandeur 
 which he will find far from being realized when he has once 
 fairly entered the town ; where, as Costigan remarks with 
 great truth, he will find every prospect in the distance to be 
 as beautiful as the spot immediately under his nose is nauseous 
 and disgusting. The autumnal atmosphere of Lisbon is, if 
 possible, more oppressive and offensive than even under the 
 highest degree of summer heat; for the filth of the streets 
 has become more completely volatilized, and the air seems to 
 be absolutely charged with feculent particles and ammoniac 
 salt. 
 
 Our arrival from the provinces has been greeted with a 
 tremendous storm of thunder and lightning, the usual precur- 
 sors of the rainy season in Portugal. The sudden explosion 
 of an electrical cloud immediately over our hotel at Buenos 
 Ayres, has afforded us a specimen of these Lusitanian storms, 
 so awful and tremendous that we have no desire to witness a 
 repetition of it. It so alarmed our native attendant, that he 
 actually turned as pale as death, and threw himself on the 
 sofa, covering his face with both his hands, and crying out for 
 assistance to San Antonio, the pai-ticular saint of Lisbon. 
 
472 PORTUGAL 
 
 The worthy Lar, however, must have been at the time other- 
 wise occupied ; perhaps in his native city of Padua, preaching 
 to cattle, or listening to some mariners' entreaties for protec- 
 tion in a moment of peril ; or possibly he might have been 
 deaf, for the storm continued to rage with unabated fury, not- 
 withstanding the groans and prayers of our Portuguese do- 
 mestic, until at length a dreadful crash was heard in the ad- 
 joining apartment, which, owing to San Antonio's previous 
 engagement, had been struck by the lightning, when large 
 fragments of granite were driven from the blocks in the wall, 
 and strewed over the floor. This is about the period of the 
 year, likewise, when the sensations of earthquakes are expe- 
 rienced at Lisbon, which are much more to be dreaded here 
 than the plague ; and altogether we were not sorry when the 
 storm had passed away to the southward. 
 
 It is quite apparent that, during our absence in the pro- 
 vinces, this metropolis has been the scene of one political 
 storm without any intermission. The atmosphere is dark and 
 gloomy ; the signs of the times are portentous and alarming 
 even to those acquainted with the imbecility, inconsistencies, 
 and inconstancy of principle, by which the present government 
 is distinguished. The Regent seems to have abandoned her 
 judgment and her firmness of purpose to her Camarilla, of 
 which Maria do Resgate and the intriguing Trigozo, a deputy 
 and ex-minister, are the most influential, and therefore the 
 most mischievous members ; the Intendant of the Police has 
 been making daily encroachments upon the liberty granted to 
 the people by the charter ; the liberal publications of the day 
 have been suppressed, and their authors without any form of 
 justice thrown into confinement ; the prisons are filled with 
 persons obnoxious to the ruling authorities on account of their 
 attachment to the constitutional system ; the hymn of freedom, 
 composed by the Emperor, is forbidden to be sold or to be 
 sung ; and we see the heroic defender of Porto riding about 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 473 
 
 in his plain clothes, awaiting his trial for the recent expres- 
 sions of popular feeling in the north, upon the removal of Sal- 
 danha from the ministry, which it was impossible for him to 
 repress ; and last, though not by any means the least of the 
 impending evils, the Lisbon Bank is reported, to the conster- 
 nation of all holders of its notes, to be upon the eve of publish- 
 ing a declaration of its insolvency. 
 
 The natural consequence of this state of things is, that fore- 
 boding suspicion and gloomy silence prevail throughout the 
 place ; and that, as in Turkey, he is most secure of his life 
 who has neither eyes, nor ears, nor tongue. Great doubts, of 
 course, begin to be entertained of the sincerity of Don Miguel's 
 professions, made in such a school as that of Metternich. 
 Some people discover in the late anti-constitutional proceed- 
 ings of the Princess Regent's ministers, not only the ascen- 
 dancy in her councils of the Corcunda or Absolutist party, but 
 the probability of their sentiments being in accordance with 
 the secret views and opinions of the Infante her brother, who 
 is destined by the Emperor to become her successor in the 
 regency. The Queen-Mother, it is said, has been concocting 
 mischief in her retirement at Queluz, by keeping up a warm 
 correspondence with her party in Spain ; and nothing can 
 induce her to come to the Palace of the Ajuda, from whose 
 windows the intolerable view of the British men of war at 
 anchor in the Tagus would present itself to her eyes. Much 
 as Don Miguel, — with whom, by the bye, at present the 
 army is said to be to a man, — may be feared and disliked by 
 the constitutionalists, the old Queen is held in a far greater 
 degree of abhorrence, as well too on account of her moral as 
 political conduct, and evei-^thing that is bad and injurious to 
 the novel institutions of the Emperor is expected from her 
 baneful interference with the measures of government, many 
 of whose recent acts indeed are attributed to her preponderat- 
 
474 PORTUGAL 
 
 ing influence. At such a critical moment for Portugal as this, 
 ardently anxious as one may feel for the continued existence 
 of the free form of government to which she has been restored 
 by her legitimate monarch under the guarantee of the great 
 powers of Europe, and more especially of Austria from the ties 
 of relationship, it is impossible not to have some apprehensions 
 about the future ; not almost to give, and yet reluctantly, into 
 the opinion that the Portuguese are incapable of liberty, or at 
 least of steady resistance to the tyranny of misrule. How 
 well to the influential orders of Portugal do the reproachful 
 lines of Byron apply ! — 
 
 Poor paltry slaves ! yet born midst noblest scenes — 
 Why, Nature, waste thy wonders on such men ? 
 
 A new and alarming feature in these eventful times, just 
 communicated to us, deserves to be particularly noticed. 
 Nossa Senhora da Rocha is a well-known enemy of the con- 
 stitutional system, and indeed her birth took place expressly 
 to obtain a triumph for the Corcundas over the liberal party, 
 for the destruction of freedom, and the restoration of all the old 
 folUes, superstitions, and baneful influence of the monastic and 
 ecclesiastical orders. A votive table, " milagre que fez," &c. 
 has been suspended near the altar where this lady of the 
 rabbit-hole receives the oblations of her subjects. Crowds of 
 people from all quarters of Lisbon have been hurrying to see 
 it. It has excited universal interest, and discloses pretty 
 clearly what are the secret wishes and intentions of the old 
 Queen, with her partisans, who are now confidently said to be 
 increasing in numbers. This miserable daub represents Don 
 Miguel decorated with the insignia of royalty, and directed by 
 the archangel Michael towards the royal palace, where the old 
 Queen is seated to receive him on an elevated platform, in 
 front of which several troops of soldiers, and of other Portu- 
 
ILLUSTRATED, 475 
 
 guese, are kneeling. The following lines are inscribed under- 
 neath : — 
 
 Para gloria da Religiao, 
 
 Salvapao de Portugal, 
 
 Paz, Utilidade e Felicidade, dos Portugueses, 
 
 O Anjo do Senhor, 
 
 Pela intercessao da Soberana Virgem, Mai de Deos, 
 
 Ouvindo as supplicas dos Justos, 
 
 Conduz ao seio da Patria, ao assento do Throno, 
 
 Aos bra90s da Imperatriz Rainha sua mai, 
 
 O Serenissimo Senhor D. Miguel, 
 
 Trazendo nas maos a palma da victoria de sens inimigos, 
 
 E a oliveira da paz. 
 
 Por esse voto formado desde o anoo de 1824, 
 
 Per Miguel Jose Scares, firmoso e fiel devoto 
 
 Da mesma Senhora, 
 
 Consagro este monumento 
 
 No venturoso dia de seus annos 1827. 
 
 We subjoin the translation : — For the glory of religion, sal- 
 vation of Portugal, peace, advantage, and felicity of the Por- 
 tuguese, the Angel of the Lord, by the intercession of the 
 Sovereign Virgin, Mother of God, hearing the supplications of 
 the just, conducts to the bosom of his country, to the seat on 
 the throne, to the arms of the Empress Queen his mother, the 
 most Serene Lord D. Miguel, bearing in his hands the palm 
 of victory over his enemies, and the olive branch of peace. 
 For the vow made since the year 1824, by Michael Jose 
 Scares, a firm and faithful servant of the same lady, this mo- 
 nument was consecrated on the fortunate day of his anniver- 
 sary in 1827. 
 
 The packet which is to waft us to the shores of old Eng- 
 land, away from these scenes of oppression and discord, has 
 just anchored under the height upon which our hotel is si- 
 tuated. We have now only one week to remain here, which 
 we shall employ in completing our examination of the public 
 
476 PORTUGAL 
 
 buildings in Lisbon which yet remain to be visited. In the 
 meanwhile we cannot help contrasting the condition of this 
 miserable and distracted country with free and happy Eng- 
 land, calmly reposing in the dignified possession of power, 
 wealth, and peace; — England, 
 
 The royal throne of kings, the sceptered isle. 
 The earth of Majesty ; the seat of Mars ; 
 Another Eden, demy Paradise ; 
 The fortress built by Nature for herself. 
 Against infection and the hand of war ; 
 The precious stone set in the silver sea. 
 Which serves it in the office of a vs^all. 
 Or as a moat defensive to a house, 
 Against the envy of less happier lands. 
 
 King Richard II. 
 
 But in the fond anticipation of our native land we are for- 
 getting Lisbon ; so, to resume our tour with the quarter of Be- 
 lem, formerly known by the name of Restello, which so nearly 
 joins Lisbon, as Link observes, that it is difficult to discover 
 the separation ; and the suburb of Alcantara is only divided 
 by a bridge over a small brook, which here falls into the 
 Tagus. This suburb is only separated by an artificial boun- 
 dary from that of Junqueira, as is the latter from the town of 
 Belem. A foreigner, however, going to Belem, would not 
 suppose he had quitted Lisbon, It is a considerable market- 
 town, where many persons of property and trades-people of 
 the higher classes have houses. Formerly the royal family 
 resided there, but the castle being burnt, they removed to 
 Queluz. In Belem is a monastery of friars of the order of 
 St. Jeronymo, instituted by Dom Manuel, the architecture of 
 which is very striking ; for instead of endeavouring to preserve 
 symmetry, the greatest pains have been taken to avoid every 
 external appearance of regularity, one pillar being made inten- 
 tionally different from another. The adjoining church, how- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 477 
 
 ever, is in a Gothic but grand style, and creates a pleasing 
 impression. There are besides in Belem two new-built, neat, 
 and very handsome churches. Near to one, that of Nossa 
 Senhora de Ajuda, is the botanic garden and museum ; and 
 further on, a royal garden, Quinta da Raynha, with a mena- 
 gerie at the entrance and several aviaries. Beyond Belem 
 is a park of considerable size, the trees and bushes of which 
 are olive trees and broom. The chace on the north of the 
 river is confined to the prince, but that on the south is free for 
 the public. 
 
 The magnificent Church and Monastery of Belem were 
 founded in 1499 by Emmanuel, — who, as Murphy observes, 
 purchased the hand of Isabella of Castile with the blood of his 
 Jewish subjects, which her priestly advisers had instigated her 
 to demand for dowry, — to commemorate the discovery of India 
 by Vasco da Gama. The library is said to contain nearly 
 thirty thousand volumes. 
 
 Upon the death of John II., surnamed the Great, who 
 through life had been intent on the discovery of India, his 
 successor, Emmanuel, resolved to prosecute his designs to the 
 utmost of his power. Accordingly, three vessels were equipped 
 for the arduous attempt, and placed under the command of 
 Vasco da Gama, his brother Paul, and his friend Nicholas 
 Coelho. Upon taking the oath of fidelity, the enterprising 
 leader received from the hands of his sovereign the banner of 
 the military order of Christ ; and the day previous to his de- 
 parture he conducted his crew to the Chapel of Belem or 
 Bethlehem, where he passed the night together with them in 
 prayer and in the solemn offices of devotion. Early on the 
 following day, the 8th of July, 1497, the year before Colum- 
 bus discovered the mouth of the Oronoko in South America, 
 Vasco da Gama was attended to the point of embarkation by 
 a procession of priests chaunting anthems, and by a multitude 
 
478 PORTUGAL 
 
 of friends whose tears and invocations implored the divine 
 protection for the hardy adventurers. 
 
 Having doubled the Cape of Tempests, Vasco da Gama first 
 visited a part of Caffraria, to which he gave the appellation of 
 Natal. He next discovered the Island of Mozambique, and 
 landed at Melinda, whence he obtained pilots, who conducted 
 his fleet to Calicut oh the coast of Malabar. After navigating 
 the Indian ocean as far as Goa, and almost miraculously escap- 
 ing the jealous and hostile intrigues of the Moors at Calicut, 
 he returned in triumph to Lisbon, to reap the reward of his bold 
 and successful adventures, and to encourage the monarch to 
 new enterprises. The lines of Thomson admirably depict the 
 perils of the undertaking, and the glorious consequences to the 
 world of Da Gama's success : — 
 
 With such mad seas the daring Gama fought 
 
 For many a day and many a dreadful night. 
 
 Incessant, labouring round the stormy Cape, 
 
 By bold ambition led, and bolder thirst 
 
 Of gold. For then from ancient gloom emerged 
 
 The rising world of trade ; the Genius, then. 
 
 Of navigation, that in hopeless sloth 
 
 Had slumbered on the vast Atlantic deep 
 
 For idle ages, starting, heard at last 
 
 The Lusitanian prince ; who, heaven-inspired. 
 
 To love of useful glory roused mankind. 
 
 And in unbounded commerce mixed the world. 
 
 In selecting the spot where Vasco da Gama had embarked, 
 for the site of this noble fabric, the fortunate monarch paid 
 due honour to the memory of the great Henry, Duke of Viseu, 
 who was justly regarded by the nation as the cause and author 
 of the discoveries in the east, by the erection of his statue over 
 the portal of the church. One of his earliest cares, likewise, 
 was the construction of a strong tower with two batteries and 
 several pieces of cannon, opposite the building, to be at once a 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 479 
 
 defence to the monastery, and to guard the approach to the 
 capital. The beautiful line of quay and wharfs contiguous to 
 Belem Tower, were built at a subsequent period by the Mar- 
 quess Pombal, in the reign of Joseph I. Emmanuel did not 
 live to complete the sacred edifice, which he had commenced 
 in gratitude to heaven for the discovery of India ; it was 
 finished by his son and successor John III., as the following 
 inscription over the entrance into the monastery records : — 
 
 Vast^ mole sacrum divinae in litore matri 
 
 Rex posuit Regum maximus Emmanuel ; 
 Auxit opus hseres regni, et pietatis uterque, 
 
 Structure certant religione pares. 
 
 " Providence," says Murphy, " fortunately saved this beau- 
 tiful building from the destructive effects of the memorable 
 earthquake, 1755, except the great arch of the transept, which 
 received a shock in that disaster, in consequence of which it 
 fell the ensuing year. Many of the royal families of Portugal 
 are interred here, and other persons of distinction, as may be 
 collected from the inscriptions on their monuments. The ar- 
 chitecture is a species compounded of the Norman-Gothic and 
 Arabian styles. The cloister adjoining to the church exhibits 
 some excellent specimens of Arabesque ornaments, designed 
 with a good deal of taste and fancy, and executed with care." 
 The celebrated manuscript bible, which Pope Julius II. pre- 
 sented to Emmanuel as an acknowledgement for his donation 
 of some of the first gold brought from India, was carried off by 
 the French with the rest of their plunder. Louis XVIII. pur- 
 chased and restored it to the convent. 
 
 To the genius and enterprising disposition of the immortal 
 Henry, the science of navigation, and all the improvements in 
 European commerce, are so much indebted for their rapid 
 advance, that a brief sketch of his character and life will not 
 perhaps be misplaced here, where we are viewing the noblest 
 
480 PORTUGAL 
 
 monument that records the result of his labours. Having re- 
 ceived the most careful and liberal education from his father, 
 John I., he early evinced a strong disinclination for the plea- 
 sures of a voluptuous court, and a determined preference for 
 retirement and study, particularly of mathematics and astro- 
 nomy. During the space of forty years he prosecuted his pa- 
 triotic designs for the welfare of his country, promoting her 
 commercial interests by opening the route to the eastern world, 
 and by establishing the decided superiority of her naval power. 
 But higher than political motives seem to have influenced his 
 exertions, for, as Mickle observes, the feelings of the prince 
 were powerfully enforced by religion. To extirpate Moham- 
 medism, was patriotism in Portugal ; and to inflict just retri- 
 bution on the Moors for their cruelties in Europe, a Just cause 
 of war against their African dominions. It was the principle 
 which gave birth to and supported the Portuguese monarchy. 
 The mariner's compass had indeed been invented before the 
 birth of Henry, but was improved to no naval advantage. 
 Traffic still crept along the coasts, and no ships were built 
 adapted to other voyages. In building the town of Sagrez, 
 near Cape San Vincente, in the kingdom of Algarve, his 
 avowed object was not more the advancement of the science 
 of navigation, and the giving a broader and more permanent 
 foundation to commerce, than the propagation of the gospel. 
 By means of the bible, he aspired to the glory of inflicting a 
 mortal wound upon the religion of Mahomet, and by bringing 
 nations acquainted with the truths of the Gospel, to ensure 
 their civilization and happiness. 
 
 It is well known how successfully Francois Xavier, who was 
 justly entitled the Apostle of India, and whose whole personal 
 conduct presented so virtuous a contrast to that of his bre- 
 thren, the Jesuits, seconded these benevolent designs by his 
 own zealous and fearless exertions in preaching to the Indians 
 the doctrines of Christianity. Whatever were the defects in 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 481 
 
 his character, they all originated from the school in which he 
 had received his education, and therefore cannot be fairly at- 
 tributed to the natural bias of his mind. 
 
 The valour of the Portuguese soldiers subsequently accom- 
 plished, at different periods, the most brilliant conquests in 
 the East, — more glorious in themselves than those obtained 
 in America by the Spaniards, inasmuch as they were more 
 disputed, and the resistance offered to the invaders was greater, 
 and certainly they were more useful to Europe at large in 
 their consequences, as they served to arrest the successful 
 progress of the Mussulman power. It cannot by any means 
 be charged against the first conquerors of India, that they 
 were actuated solely by the love of gold in their daring adven- 
 tures, — a principle which generally begets a thirst for blood. 
 Rigorous in the exercise of their sway over the people, whom 
 they had reduced to submission, they nevertheless tempered 
 the severity of their rule with justice. 
 
 Some of the earlier Portuguese governors of India were dis- 
 tinguished for eminent virtues ; and it is to the honour of Por- 
 tugal to have enrolled among her children, the names of Al- 
 meida, Albuquerque, and John de Castro. After the death, 
 however, of these illustrious generals, avarice and eastern 
 effeminacy seem to have taken possession of the Portuguese, 
 with some few exceptions, and in proportion as their courage 
 degenerated, to have excited their cruelty. The oppressed 
 Indians, it is said, were often known to invoke the manes of 
 the first conquerors of their country, and implore vengeance 
 from them upon the heads of their cruel and unprincipled suc- 
 cessors. 
 
 It is worthy of remark, how successfully, amidst all the 
 vicissitudes of fortune which accompanied the progress of the 
 Portuguese arms in the Indian Peninsula, the See of Rome 
 prosecuted with undeviating aim its own secular interests. 
 The conquests of the soldiery were always made to ensure 
 Port. 2 H 
 
482 PORTUGAL 
 
 the aggrandisement and triumph of the church, whose minis- 
 ters never surrendered an advantage of which they had once 
 obtained possession. In addition to the ecclesiastical esta- 
 blishment at Goa, whose chief was always considered the me- 
 tropolitan of Portuguese India, two suffragan bishoprics were 
 erected, the one at Cochin, and the other in Malacca. At 
 length, the ambition and the avarice of the Jesuits, who were 
 originally countenanced by the popes for the support of their 
 declining power in Europe, prompted them to seek spiritual 
 dominion in India. The consummate skill with which they 
 contrived to exercise complete controul over the proud con- 
 querors of India, and to insinuate themselves into all their 
 establishments, forms a prominent feature in their history. 
 At length they absorbed all the wealth and dignities of the 
 church, and carried on a system of bloody persecution against 
 their brethren in faith, who contested with them the possession 
 of power, emolument, and honours; — nor was the extensive 
 empire of China itself beyond the scope of their ambition. 
 
 As for that bloody tribunal, the Inquisition of Goa, its ex- 
 cesses and cruelties have been sufficient to excite feelings of 
 horror throughout the civilized world. Its barbarities, indeed, 
 became more outrageous, as the moment approached for the 
 liberation of Asia from its iron grasp. Established in the east 
 at an early period of the Portuguese conquests, its influence 
 was directed by the government not so much to propagate the 
 Christian faith and preserve it from corruption, as to serve 
 commercial interests and thfe selfish purposes of the con- 
 querors. In order to inspire foreigners with apprehension, 
 and to prevent rivalsliip in trade, strangers were arrested on 
 the most frivolous pretexts, and condemned and burnt as he- 
 retics ; while the Portuguese Jews were suffered to prosper and 
 multiply under the protection of the holy office. No Asiatic 
 prince was more powerful, nor enjoyed a greater degree of 
 luxury and magnificence, than the grand Inquisitor of Goa, 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 483 
 
 who was always chosen from the class of secular priests. In 
 fact, the power possessed by the ministers of the inquisition 
 in India far surpassed that exercised by their brethren in Eu- 
 rope, and their chief was invested with a theocratical supre- 
 macy, which almost amounted to sovereignty. Elevated above 
 the archbishop, and even the viceroy, he could arrest, im- 
 prison, and condemn both, without any further controul than 
 the merely making a report to the authorities in Portugal of 
 the measures which it had been his pleasure to take in respect 
 of them. 
 
 The fleets which sailed from Lisbon, under the in^uence of 
 the Jesuits, were no longer equipped with soldiers alone, for 
 the purpose of extending the Portuguese conquests in the 
 east, but with a race of missionaries, who, carrying with them 
 principles of cruelty, and the seeds of disorder, depended 
 much more on the sword for effecting conversion, than on the 
 mild appeals of the Gospel. Thus with the basest cupidity 
 was coupled a sanguinary and a compulsive proselytism, until 
 at length, at a moment when, for the defence of her conquests 
 in the east against the encroachments of rival commercial 
 powers, then starting into political existence, it was most 
 needed, the valour of her ancient warriors, — of those who had 
 shared the perils of Gama, and had fought with Albuquer- 
 que and Pacheco, — was wholly lost to Portugal, 
 
 The chivalrous spirit, the thirst for enterprize, th'e boast of 
 dangers surmounted, and of victories achieved, the hope of dis- 
 tinction, and the allurements of honours to be conferred, which 
 originally tempted the Portuguese to dare the perils of the 
 ocean from Lisbon, at length totally vanished. The public 
 service was sacrificed to private interests, and the Portuguese 
 settlements in the east were proceeding to decay with a rapi- 
 dity which the efforts of two or three virtuous and honourable 
 governors, who occasionally appeared, and exerted themselves 
 to revive the feelings of older times, were unequal to arrest. 
 
484 PORTUGAL 
 
 At last, the employment of every means which individual am- 
 bition and avarice could invent for self-interest, gratification, 
 and spoil, hurried the power of the Portuguese in India com- 
 pletely to its downfall. Advantage was taken of the laxity of 
 discipline ; the Indians became formidable, and, finally join- 
 ing the other Europeans, who were attracted by the treasures 
 of the east, wrested from the Portuguese that empire which it 
 had cost them so much blood to acquire. 
 
 Thus these causes, which we have enumerated, combined 
 with the ruinous policy adopted during the reigns of Sebastian 
 and the Cardinal Henry, and above all, under the Spanish 
 usurpation, led to the dismemberment of the mighty empire 
 established by the Portuguese in India, and to the admission 
 of rival and hostile powers into the possession of the fairest 
 portions of the peninsula. But still, however we may be , 
 inclined to denounce the mismanagement, and lament the 
 misfortunes which tore so bright and valuable a gem from the 
 Lusitanian crown, we must not forget that all the advantages 
 which the commercial nations of Europe derive at this time 
 from the discoveries effected upon the western and eastern 
 coasts of Africa, in China, the East and West Indies, are to be 
 ascribed to the enterprising genius of Henry. It is recorded 
 of his sailors, that they were accustomed to leave his motto. 
 Talent de bknfaire, on the different places which they disco- 
 vered, and no more suitable memorial of his great directing 
 mind could possibly have been suggested. The difference 
 between the present state of Europe, and the monkish age in 
 which he was born, is, as Mickle justly observes, no less the 
 result of his genius and toils. He died at his town of Sagrez, 
 in the 67th year of his age, 1453, having passed his life in the 
 service of his country. " Si non cum corpore extinguuntur 
 magnse animse," — if the souls of the departed are suffered to have 
 any knowledge of what passes in this nether world, one might 
 imagine the affliction with which Henry's spirit must look 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 485 
 
 down upon the degraded state of his country ; her colonies 
 lost ; her commerce ruined ; her navy destroyed ; her rank 
 among nations taken away from her ; her religion reduced to 
 a system of irrational ceremonies, and the only means of na- 
 tional renovation rejected by the influential classes, the nobi- 
 lity and clergy. 
 
 It is to the disgrace of the Portuguese nation that Camoens, 
 a poet worthy of the hero whose exploits he has celebrated in 
 his Lusiad, should have been treated with "cold neglect" by 
 one monarch, persecuted by another whom the hat of a car- 
 dinal did not render the more compassionate Christian ; and, 
 at length, after a life of unparalleled misfortunes, having in 
 his latter days been dependent upon alms procured in the streets 
 by an aged black servant, a Javanese, who had once saved 
 his life in a shipwreck, that he should have been permitted to 
 die miserably in a house established for the reception of the 
 poor. His Lusiad, however, which is justly considered the 
 epic poem of the birth of commerce, will be sufficient to rescue 
 hi^ name from oblivion, " dignum laude virum — Musa vetat 
 mori." He died in -the year 1579, at the age of 62. His 
 remains were interred in the church of Santa Anna, in Lisbon, 
 near the entrance, and at the left-hand corner, without any 
 record to mark the place of his sepulture. 
 
 Mickle remarks that we may infer from the speech of Gama 
 to his sovereign, in which he gives a description of Europe, 
 that England, at the time when Camoens wrote, could have 
 attained but little consequence in the political scale of nations, 
 for he omits her name altogether from his enumeration of the 
 European powers : — 
 
 And now as head of all the lordly train 
 
 Of Europe's realms appears illustrious Spain. Lib. hi. 
 
 and this perhaps in the reign of our Henry VHL, though the 
 Lusiad was not published till the fourteenth year of the reign 
 of Elizabeth. 
 
486 PORTUGAL 
 
 The present magnificent palace of the Ajuda owes its origin 
 entirely to the slight houses of mere wood, which were erected 
 on this hill for the temporary accommodation of the court, 
 immediately after the great earthquake. In the course of 
 some few years afterwards they were united, and gradually 
 extended into a large irregular pile of building, and at length 
 were accidentally burnt, towards the close of the last century, 
 when the royal family removed to Queluz. Like many other 
 royal undertakings in Portugal, the plan of this new palace is 
 upon a scale of magnitude quite disproportionate to the means 
 and wants of the country. The entrance, however, is im- 
 posing, and the suite of rooms, particularly the audience 
 chambers, are very splendid. They contain some allegorical 
 pictures in allusion to the events of the late monarch's 
 checquered life, which are fairly executed, and, as we were 
 informed, by a native artist, and some small paintings in a 
 back gallery, the subjects of which have been taken from 
 Wellington's campaigns in the Peninsula. Extensive as the 
 structure is, it is not yet sufficiently large to satisfy the royal 
 pride, and accordingly the surrounding town is to be removed 
 to make way for gardens and other appendages, which shall 
 give Lisbon, as it is presumed, a royal residence vying in 
 magnificence and richness of decorations with the Louvre at 
 Paris. The total absence of trees, however, from the elevated 
 platform upon which it stands, and where in all probability 
 they can never be made to grow, will be a sad deficiency in 
 its pretensions to a comparison with other European palaces. 
 The royal residence at Salvaterra is ten miles from Lisbon. 
 
 The palace of the Necessidades, situated in this quarter of 
 the town, has been the occasional residence of the Portuguese 
 sovereigns ; but Joseph converted the greater part of it into a 
 convent. It contains a library with a good collection of books, 
 a small museum, and an observatory. Its gardens are still the 
 favourite promenade of foreigners, because, if they have few 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 487 
 
 other attractions, they are at least always sweet, being open 
 to the breezes from the river. We have been much pleased 
 with the appearance of the king's riding stables, which, owing 
 to the fidelity of the domestic under whose charge they were 
 left during the absence of the royal family in Brasil, were 
 secured from injury, and are now in an excellent state of pre- 
 servation. The menagerie, however, has lost all its tenants 
 save a poor white Polar bear, much reduced by spare diet. 
 It was a piteous sight to see the poor animal licking his dry 
 paws, and absolutely groaning under the effect of the heat. 
 We treated him to a few buckets of cold water, which seemed 
 to revive him for the moment ; but the tender mercies of his 
 keepers had, it was quite clear, been already too much for 
 him, and we concluded that a few hours would terminate his 
 sufiferings. The royal museum still contains a respectable 
 collection of natural curiosities ; but, considering the colonies 
 possessed by Portugal in either hemisphere, by no means cor- 
 respondent in extent with a stranger's expectations. 
 
 " Brasil," says Mr. Southey, " has supplied the museum 
 with the richest collection of birds I ever saw. The collection, 
 if well disposed, would make a much more respectable appear- 
 ance ; but when the gloom of insanity and bigotry prevails at 
 court, little can be expected of royal encouragement, Many 
 of the most valuable articles have lately been given away by 
 the prince of Brasil. In the botanic garden, my attention was 
 principally engaged by two statues, dug up near Montalegre 
 in 1785, and now stuck up on each side the door of the garden, 
 and exposed to the weather! The one is somewhat larger 
 than the other, but both are in the same attitude, and repre- 
 sent a man, his hands hanging down, and holding with both a 
 small round shield ; evidently too rude for an age far advanced 
 in civilisation, yet they are much superior to the efforts of a 
 barbarous one. These statues give ample room for conjecture ; 
 they led me to reflect on many stupendous works of art, which 
 
488 PORTUGAL 
 
 were wondered at in the earliest ages of history, and of which 
 the authors were even then forgotten." They are described 
 by the author of the Diary of an Invalid, as military statues 
 belonging to a period anterior to the Carthaginian conquest of 
 Spain. A column, with an inscription recording the treason- 
 able intentions of the Duke of Aveiro with other conspirators 
 against the life of Joseph I., and marking the site of the 
 traitor's palace, which was completely destroyed, and the soil 
 upon which it stood, sown with salt as an additional stamp of 
 ignominy, is still to be seen ; but, as Link remarks, some 
 shops have been erected beside it to hide the inscription — a 
 just symbol of the conduct of the nation on this subject ; for 
 what they cannot alter, they strive to conceal. A church was 
 erected on the spot where the king's carriage was fired at by 
 the agents of the Jesuits, to commemorate his escape, and was 
 dedicated to Nossa Senhora do Livramento. 
 
 There is a small convent at Belem, called " Bom Successo," 
 inhabited by a few nuns, chiefly natives of Ireland, whose 
 principal means of subsistence are derived from the sale of 
 sweetmeats and ornamental baskets for flowers. Their little 
 trade ought to be lucrative, for sweetmeats are in universal 
 request throughout Portugal, and form the principal luxury of 
 Portuguese tables. We have often seen capacious goblets of 
 water, in the discrimination of whose qualities it is the talent 
 of all classes to exhibit great acuteness, slowly imbibed, in 
 order to increase and prolong the taste of the preserved fruits 
 in the mouth. It is to this habit of eating sweetmeats, as 
 provocatives to drink deep draughts of water, which blow the 
 body out, that Costigan ascribes the little fat, pursy, mis- 
 shapen persons of the nobility, who are usually seen incased 
 within a monstrous circumference of a pale and unwholesome 
 sort of churchyard fat. 
 
 But for the monastery — "It was founded," according to 
 Murphy's statement, " in the year 1626, for the nuns of the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 489 
 
 order of St. Jeronyrao, but through the munificence of Queen 
 Luiza de Gusman, it was afterwards set apart for females, 
 natives of Ireland, who entered into holy orders. It is dedi- 
 cated to St. Dominick. The Irish convent or college of the 
 Dominican order was founded in 1659, by Queen Luiza de 
 Gusman, and was entirely destroyed by the earthquake. 
 Since that period the fathers have been enabled to rebuild 
 their little seminary and church, where a few students are 
 educated for the Romish priesthood in Ireland." There are 
 few good pictures by great masters to be met with in the Por- 
 tuguese churches in Lisbon. The church of San Domingos, 
 near the palace of the inquisition, which is one of the most 
 splendid of the ecclesiastical structures at Lisbon, contains 
 perhaps the best pictures. Those also in the church of Nossa 
 Senhora do Loretto are not without merit. 
 
 The patriarchal church is situated at the north-east side of 
 the town, upon an eminence that commands a most extensive 
 and beautiful prospect. The treasures of sacred relics, gold, 
 silver, precious stones, and costly furniture, of this venerable 
 edifice, were considered in former times to be almost inestima- 
 ble. The French, however, understood the intrinsic value of 
 these articles, and carried away the greater part with them 
 under the sanction of the Cintra convention. We have already 
 described the English Protestant burial ground, situated above 
 the Estrella convent and church, and have now to remark 
 that it was Oliver Cromwell who procured for British sub- 
 jects, in addition to other valuable rights and immunities, this 
 site for a place of separate interment. The attachment of the 
 Portuguese to religious processions is well known. That upon 
 the day of Corpus Christi is represented as being by far the 
 most splendid of these ceremonies. If, instead of this worse 
 than useless parade, the knowledge of the Gospel were spread 
 throughout the country, the most beneficial effects would be 
 the certain result upon the morals and the faith of the people ; 
 
490 PORTUGAL 
 
 but how can the Portuguese hear without a preacher? Per- 
 haps the missionary system of France might be well adopted 
 by the ruling authorities in the Portuguese church in any 
 attempt which the Cortes may enjoin them to make for reno- 
 vating the character of the national religion. Persons are 
 frequently met in the streets who, we are told, are licensed to 
 beg alms for individuals in distress, whose names are not 
 revealed. Were there no abuses accompanying this mode of 
 collecting charity, the feeling of delicacy towards the unfortu- 
 nate, to which it must owe its origin, would be sufficient to 
 ensure it unqualified approbation ; but, alas ! even charity 
 here is liable to be perverted and distorted to unworthy pur- 
 poses. 
 
 In describing the institution of the Misericordias in the 
 several cities of Portugal, we have already taken occasion to 
 speak of the hospital of Lisbon. It was formerly placed under 
 the immediate direction of the Misericordia of the metropolis ; 
 but it has continued for a long time under the immediate 
 management of the office of the home department, the king 
 himself appointing the director-general of the establishment. 
 It still possesses, we understand, considerable revenues, and 
 is maintained in good condition for the accommodation of the 
 sick ; but for a more regular and statistical account of this 
 establishment, we must refer you to Balbi. 
 
 The institution of Foundling hospitals will be found to exist 
 in every part of the kingdom, in the cities, as likewise in the 
 greater and smaller towns. They are, by the general law of 
 the country, included under the administration of the several 
 municipahties. In some of the principal towns, such as 
 Lisbon, Porto, Coimbra, and others, they have been confided 
 to the management of the directors of the Misericordias, but, 
 generally speaking, they are supported by public funds under 
 the superintendence of the municipal officers of the place in 
 which they exist. The Casa Pia in Lisbon is an establish- 
 
ILLUSTllATED. 491 
 
 ment founded by the deceased monarch, Dom Joao VI., for 
 the maintenance and education of orphan children, quite dis- 
 tinct from that for the reception of foundlings. It was once 
 the finest and most flourishing establishment of the kind in 
 Europe ; it possessed a school for painting ; and its most 
 distinguished youths were enabled to travel in the other 
 countries of Europe, and to perfect their knowledge of the art 
 of painting at Rome and in the other schools of Italy. Others 
 again were supplied with funds by the institution to prosecute 
 their studies in the university of Coimbra. The number of 
 orphans brought up and educated at this establishment, 
 amounted sometimes to two, three, and even to four thousand 
 at once; but in the present day it has shared the general 
 decadence of the empire, and has fallen, comparatively speak- 
 ing, to a state of nullity ; its number of pupils cannot now 
 amount to more than six hundred, and as its aflFairs are 
 wretchedly mismanaged, the prospect of its complete annihi- 
 lation appears to be not very distant. 
 
 The eternal din of the bells of colleges and convents, by 
 which we are surrounded, has become an intolerable nuisance, 
 and the more so to feelings indignant at the miserable mum- 
 mery to which they often invite. Here there is deception in 
 everything; even the boys who sell " palhitos" (toothpicks) in 
 the streets impose upon the inexperienced traveller skewers 
 made of fir, instead of those delicately finished articles of 
 orange-wood to be purchased at Coimbra, with the imputed 
 manufacture of which the learned students of that second 
 Athens have been so cruelly libelled. A word more about the 
 education of the Portuguese, one of whom, a liberal Catholic, 
 lately made to me the following remark : The system of 
 education followed in this country is the least calculated to 
 lead people in the way they should go ; nay, if I were to say 
 that there really is no ruling system at all, I should be nearer 
 the truth. I may give my opinion without hesitation, because 
 
492 PORTUGAL 
 
 I may compare a Portuguese with an English school, having 
 passed three years in each, and I thank God that I left the 
 Portuguese school, before it was too late for me to reap the 
 benefit of a transition to Sedgely college in England; for 
 many of my countrymen, who commenced their education here 
 and went late to your country, have returned home worse, 
 because their foundation was bad. 
 
 Murphy observes that the Portuguese women do not assume 
 the family names of their husbands as with us, but in all the 
 vicissitudes of matrimony retain their maiden names. This 
 custom, as far as we can learn, would seem to be discontinued, 
 at least in the city of Porto, where we have lived in greater 
 habits of familiarity with the native Portuguese. The attach- 
 ment of a Portuguese Jew, he remarks elsewhere, though 
 expelled the country with every cruel opprobrium, has often 
 been such to his native land, as to induce him to send for some 
 earth to Lisbon, to be deposited with his corpse in the grave. 
 There is something in the air and soil of Portugal congenial 
 to the disposition of the Israelites, which neither time, nor 
 change, nor persecution, ever alter; — still in the words of 
 Imlah's song they seem to address the offended Deity : — 
 
 Thy vengeance gave us to the stranger's hand, 
 
 And Abraham's children were led forth for slaves ; 
 With fettered steps we left our pleasant land, 
 
 Envying our fathers in their peaceful graves. 
 The stranger's bread with bitter tears we steep. 
 
 And when our weary eyes should sink to sleep, 
 'Neath the mute midnight we steal forth to weep. 
 
 Where the pale willows shade Euphrates' waves. 
 
 Belshazzar, 
 
 This feeling precisely explains the meaning of the Portu- 
 guese term " Saudade," which cannot be translated into one 
 correspondent word of our language. It is expressive of 
 affectionate regrets and warm feelings of attachment, and may 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 493 
 
 be applied to animate as well as to inanimate objects : " Morro 
 com Saudades de o ver;" we send a thousand " Saudades" to 
 an absent friend, who cherishes our memory with his own ; we 
 quit with many " Saudades" the scenes of passed happiness, 
 and desire to renew them " com Saudades ;" and the parting 
 farewell between those who are dearest to each other is con- 
 veyed in the simple but affecting term " Saudade." 
 
 Since our arrival in the country, our days have been passed 
 in constant exertion, and it could scarcely be said that we 
 have rendered ourselves answerable for one idle hour. Al- 
 though living altogether with Portuguese, and in the habits of 
 the greatest intimacy and familiarity, we have not been able 
 to do more than make but a slight acquaintance with the 
 character of the language. To make it a direct study we have 
 found impossible, and indeed, perhaps unluckily, by no means 
 necessary; for English and French are generally understood 
 by the more enlightened classes, and consequently have formed 
 the media of our communications with them. 
 
 The language of Castile has a guttural pronunciation, much 
 resembling that of the Arabic, which indeed may be regarded 
 as its basis, as the Latin is the basis of the Portuguese and the 
 Italian ; the Teutonic that of the English, the Dutch, and the 
 German ; and the Celtic that of the French language. Now 
 the Portuguese and Italian pronunciation is principally labial, 
 that is, enunciated by the movement of the lips ; that of the 
 English and French is chiefly dental ; and the Castilian is 
 almost altogether brought out from the throat, in the same 
 manner as the language of our British forefathers is pro- 
 nounced, at the present day, in the fastnesses of the Princi- 
 pality. The language of Castile is decidedly beautiful, strong, 
 and expressive; but still it wants much of that softness and 
 that. majesty which characterize the Portuguese and English 
 languages, which, notwithstanding their different origins, per- 
 haps it might be said, possess certain essential qualities more 
 
494 PORTUGAL 
 
 resembling each other, in short, more in common, than any 
 two languages in Europe. There never has been, and pro- 
 bably there will never arise in Spain, a Milton, a Camoens, or 
 a Shakspeare ; the Castilian is unable to copy after nature ; 
 his personal character, and the character of his language, 
 render it quite impossible that he should. He forms a distinct 
 and separate nature for himself; that is to say, an artificial 
 sort of nature, which is frequently beautiful, attractive, nay, 
 even which possesses brilliant and dazzling qualities, but still 
 it is never the truth of perfect nature itself. 
 
 Many words in the Portuguese language have a striking affi- 
 nity to the Latin, and, as an example, the following passage 
 may be taken at pleasure as a specimen of either language : — 
 O quam gloriosas memorias publico, considerando quanto 
 vales, nobilissima lingua Lusitana, cum tua facundia exces- 
 sivamente nos provocas, excitas, inflaraas ! quam altas victorias 
 procuras, quam celebres triumphos speras, quam excellentes 
 fabricas fundas, quam perversas furias castigas, quam feroces 
 insolencias rigorosamente domas, raanifestando de prosa e de 
 metro tantas elegancias Latinas. 
 
 In his brief comparative view of the Spanish and Portuguese 
 languages, and, as he partly differs from us, it is but fair to 
 give you his opinion, Link observes that the latter has assumed 
 a totally different character from the Latin, perfectly northern, 
 like the Spanish, Itahan, French, and even the modern Greek. 
 The whole language, he says, very nearly approximates to the 
 Spanish, but has a very different pronunciation, and many 
 words peculiar to itself; on the whole, too, the Portuguese, 
 according to his ear, especially as it is now spoken, is not so 
 sonorous as the Spanish. It is indeed without gutturals, but, 
 on the other hand, abounds in nasal sounds, mute terminations, 
 and too much sibillation. The last syllables sound mute, and, 
 as it were, swallowed. To this may be added the ugly custom 
 of pronouncing the s at the end both of words and of syllables 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 495 
 
 as a weak sch (sh) ; thus mais is pronounced rnaisch, and Lisboa 
 almost Lischboe. The construction of the Portuguese is in 
 many respects entirely similar to the Spanish, so that they 
 may be mutually translated without altering the relative situa- 
 tion of the words. 
 
 Thus much Link has advanced on the subject, and we leave 
 it to your judgment to decide the question upon which we 
 appear to be at issue. We pass on to a more useful and 
 amusing subject, " a Review of the Literary History of Por- 
 tugal;" which, by the bye, looking to the almost insufferable 
 length of this letter, had better be reserved for a separate 
 communication. The materials for this brief sketch have 
 been furnished to us by several Portuguese literati, whose 
 acquaintance we have had the good fortune to make ; and 
 mainly to our ingenious and enlightened friend, the Chevalier 
 de Almeida Garrett, who is well known to the literary world 
 as the author of several works, both in prose and verse, which 
 are highly esteemed ; and who is more particularly appreciated 
 in Portugal for the integrity of his conduct, when presiding in 
 the office of the Home Department, and latterly as the principal 
 editor of the constitutional journal entitled " O Portuguez." 
 This synoptical review of the Portuguese literature we shall 
 bring down to the commencement of the present century, and 
 it will form an appropriate, and perhaps not altogether an 
 uninteresting, conclusion to our correspondence from this 
 country. 
 
 We have met with only one copy of Souza's edition of the 
 immortal poem of Camoens, but of course there must be many 
 others in the public libraries. They have, however, escaped 
 our notice. In one or two instances only have we seen Mickle's 
 translation of the Lusiad, and Lord Strangford's elegant ver- 
 sion of the Sonnets of the Lusitanian bard. With respect to 
 classical acquirements among the Portuguese, we believe that 
 profound scholarship is at present but rarely accomplished. 
 
496 
 
 PORTUGAL 
 
 and that the Greek language is very slightly cultivated. Travel- 
 lers cannot fail of being struck by the indolence and ignorance 
 which prevail among the greater part of the religious fraterni- 
 ties. Their worse than unprofitableness seems, at this their 
 declining hour, to be made riianifest as the sun at noon-day to 
 the Portuguese nation. 
 
 Balbi, in his Statistical Essay upon the Kingdom of Portu- 
 gal, a work to which we have been indebted throughout the 
 tour for much curious and valuable information, has given 
 likewise an accurate view of the weights and measures, which 
 must not be omitted here. The largest measure is the Quin- 
 tal, but the Arroba is more usually employed in wholesale 
 transactions. The scale is the same throughout the kingdom. 
 
 TABLE OF PORTUGUESE WEIGHTS, 
 
 WITH THEIR CORRESPONDING TERMS IN ENGI-ISH. 
 
 
 Portuguese. 
 
 English values. 
 
 1 Quintal contains 
 
 4 Arrobas 
 
 about 132 Pounds. 
 
 1 Arroba 
 
 32 Arrateis 
 
 . 33 do. 
 
 1 Arratel 
 
 16 Onpas 
 
 16i Ounces. 
 
 1 Marco . 
 
 8 Onfas 
 
 about 7^ Ounces, Troy weight 
 
 1 Onfa . 
 
 8 Oitavas . 
 
 18J. Pennyweights, do. 
 
 1 Oitava 
 
 3 Escropulos 
 
 2^ do. do. 
 
 1 Escropulo 
 
 24 Graos . 
 
 18|- Grains, do. 
 
 1 Grad . 
 
 . 
 
 ^ ot a, Grain do. 
 
 TABLE OF PORTUGUESE MEASURES, 
 
 WITH THEIR CORRESPONDING TERMS IN ENGLISH. 
 LONG MEASURE. 
 
 Portuguese. English values. 
 
 1 Brafa contains . 10 Palmos . . about 7i Feet. 
 
 1 Vara . . . 5 do. . . about 3f do. 
 
 1 Pollegada . . 12 Linhas . . . i Inch. 
 
u, 
 
 

 
 ILLUSTRATED. 4 
 
 
 
 LIQUID MEASURE. 
 
 
 
 Portuguese. 
 
 English values. 
 
 1 Tonel contains 
 and in some provinces 
 
 2jPipas . 
 
 1 Tun, or 2 Pipes. 
 
 1 Pipa . 
 
 . 
 
 25 Almudes 
 
 . 117^ Imperial Gallons. 
 
 1 Almude 
 
 , 
 
 12 Canadas 
 
 4^ do. do. 
 
 1 Canada 
 
 • 
 
 4 Quartilhos 
 
 34. do. Pints. 
 
 
 DRY, OR CORN 
 
 MEASURE. 
 
 
 
 Portuguese. 
 
 English values. 
 
 I Moyo contains 
 
 . 
 
 60 Alqueires 
 
 . 3 Quarters. 
 
 1 Fanga . 
 
 . 
 
 4 do. , 
 
 . 6f Pecks. 
 
 1 Alqueire 
 
 . 
 
 4 Quartas 
 
 . . If do. 
 
 497 
 
 We have paid another visit to the Aqueduct, which is per- 
 haps after all the only public structure in Lisbon whose utility 
 and style of architecture challenge unqualified admiration. 
 Upon this occasion we were accompanied by a scientific Por- 
 tuguese, who gave us the following measurements, the accuracy 
 of which is confirmed by the authority of Murphy : — 
 
 Height of the grand arch from the ground to the intrados 
 
 From the vertex of the arch to the intrados, inclusive of 
 
 the parapet ........ 
 
 Thence to the top of the ventilator .... 
 
 Total height from ground to summit of ventilator . 
 
 Breadth of principal arch ...... 
 
 Breadth of the piers of this arch ..... 
 
 Thickness of the piers in general ..... 
 
 Ft. 
 
 In, 
 
 230 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 23 
 
 4 
 
 263 
 
 10 
 
 107 
 
 8 
 
 28 
 
 
 
 23 
 
 8 
 
 The orders of knighthood in Portugal, as in the other king- 
 doms of southern Europe, were numerous during the middle 
 ages, when the enthusiastic valour of the adventurous youth 
 of every Christian power demanded no higher reward for 
 Port. 2 I 
 
498 PORTUGAL 
 
 combats successfully sustained against the Moors. Faith, 
 patriotism, and honourable ambition, thus produced a host of 
 warriors against the Saracenic invaders of Europe. The 
 decoration of the order of the Wing of St. Michael was, in the 
 reign of Alphonso Henriquez, the most glorious reward to 
 which the candidate for military fame could aspire. Under 
 this sovereign was likewise introduced into Portugal the mili- 
 tary order of Malta, which is now the oldest of those existing 
 in the country. It was originally instituted at Jerusalem by 
 Godefroy, de Bouillon in 1100. That of Aviz was first esta- 
 blished by an association of private individuals for the protec- 
 tion of pilgrims, and was richly endowed at Evora by Al- 
 phonso in 1158; who, about the year 1177, estabhshed also 
 in Portugal the military order of St. James of the Sword, a 
 similar institution to this as well as to the former existing at 
 the time in Spain. The military order of Christ was instituted 
 by King Denis in 1319, who conferred upon its members the 
 possessions of the suppressed order of Knights Templars ; 
 that of the Tower and Sword was created in 1459 by Al- 
 phonso V. ; and was revived by John VI., when regent, in 
 1808, as a decoration for Protestant commanders, who are not 
 admissible into the other orders of knighthood. All writers 
 on Portugal lament the degraded condition to which these 
 orders, particularly that of Christ, have been reduced by the 
 indiscriminate manner in which they have, from time to time, 
 been conferred upon obscure individuals without any merit or 
 pretensions, and frequently upon persons holding the lowest 
 employments. Thus the value of these distinctions has been 
 in a great measure destroyed. 
 
 As to a description of the celebrated Carthusian Convent 
 of Nossa Senhora da Arrabida, on the Arrabida mountain, 
 you must be contented to receive that of Mr. Southey, who 
 speaks in raptures of the charms of the surrounding land- 
 scape : — " Never did I behold scenery so wild and so 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 499 
 
 sublime as the mountain of Arrabida presented, and which, 
 ccmtinually varying, as we advanced, always displayed some 
 new beauty. Rude crosses are erected on almost every 
 crag; below is the Atlantic ocean. We were conducted to a 
 cavern consecrated to St. Catharine ; the entrance is down a 
 long flight of steps, and admits but little light ; the sea enters 
 below, dashing the rocks with that loud and continual roar 
 which accords as well with the feelings of the poet as of the 
 devotee. Through this aperture the light ascends, and nothing 
 is visible but rock and sea ;" — reminding us of Virgil's descrip- 
 tion, in his fourth Georgic, of the cave of Proteus : — 
 
 — — — — Est speciis ingens, 
 Exesi latere in montis, quc> plurima vento 
 Cogitur, inque sinus scindit sese unda reductos. 
 
 We had made our arrangements for visiting Moita, Palmela, 
 Setuval, commonly called St. Ubes, which was built by Al- 
 phonso Henriquez, and Azeitao, which severe indisposition, 
 produced by long-continued exertions, prevented uS, unfortu- 
 nately, from carrying into execution. This little tour might 
 easily have been completed in four days. It requires only 
 about an hour and a half to cross the Tagus to Moita, where 
 mules or burros are always found ready saddled for the travel- 
 ler's use. The principal features of the district are sand and 
 heaths, cork trees, and pine woods. The harbour of Setuval 
 is considered to be the largest and most comrnodious in Por- 
 tugal, with the exception of that of Lisbon ; the bar, however, 
 is dangerous. Its commerce consists principally in the ex- 
 portation of salt and oranges. During the summer season, 
 according to Murphy, the opulent Romans who inhabited 
 Beja, Evora, and other parts of Lusitania, had here their villas 
 and their baths, and a temple dedicated to the goddess 
 Salacia. Augustus Caesar made it a free town. The Moors 
 had possession of it from 713 to 1217, when Alphonso II. 
 
500 PORTUGAL 
 
 finally banished them after reducing the town to a heap of 
 ruins. 
 
 Opposite to Setuval, upon the extremity of a neck of land 
 near the village of Troja, there are the remains of an ancient 
 town called Coetobriga ; and it has been inferred, from inscrip- 
 tions upon various monuments which have been found amongst 
 its ruins, that Phoenician and Roman colonies successively 
 occupied the spot. The origin of the word Lusitania is said 
 to be Phoenician, " Luz" in that language, as in the Hebrew, 
 signifying " an almond tree." Palmela being situated on a 
 height, is clearly discerned from Lisbon. 
 
 The province of the Alemtejo extends one hundred miles in 
 length as well as breadth. Its principal productions are corn, 
 wine, lemons, and oranges ; but the soil varies exceedingly in 
 its quality. Some parts are remarkable for their fertility, but 
 the greater portion consists of mountainous districts, sandy and 
 unproductive plains, and extensive marshes, which exhaling 
 pestilential vapours, render the atmosphere in summer parti- 
 cularly unwholesome. Evora, in Latin " Ebora," which may 
 be considered the capital of the province, is the seat of an 
 archbishop, and has been the residence of many of the Portu- 
 guese sovereigns. Its university was suppressed at the time 
 of the expulsion of the Jesuits. The Spanish antiquarians, 
 says the author whom we last quoted, affirm that Evora was 
 first built by the Celti about 759 years before the nativity of 
 Christ. Pliny and others agree in thinking that it was inha- 
 bited by the Gauls, Phoenicians, and Persians. Quintus Ser- 
 torius took it about 80 years before Christ, secured it with 
 walls, fortifications, and subterraneous ways, and ornamented 
 it with several public buildings. Julius Caesar was the next 
 who subdued Evora. He made it a principal town, and gave 
 it the name of Liberalitas JuHa. The Moors took possession 
 of it in 715. It is not so large as Porto, but it is considered 
 the second-city in the kingdom. Among the public buildings 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 501 
 
 of the Romans still extant, afe an aqueduct, and the remains 
 of a temple dedicated to Diana, both of which are attributed 
 to Quintus Sertorius. The front of the temple presents an 
 hexastyle in the Corinthian order. The pinnacles by which it 
 is crowned, are evidently an addition of the Moors. In point 
 of antiquity as well as elegance, it is the most estimable 
 structure in Portugal, but is sadly neglected. Indeed, it 
 has been converted into a slaughter-house. Numerous in- 
 scriptive stones and coins, which record the domination of the 
 Romans, are still frequently found here at no great depth 
 below the surface of the earth. The charnel-house, contain- 
 ing a terrific and disgusting assemblage of human skulls and 
 bones, fixed in the walls of the nave by a hard cement, is fully 
 described by Murphy. Were anything wanting to increase 
 the horrors of this melancholy place, it has been amply sup- 
 plied by the following distich, which speaks in very intelligible 
 language : — 
 
 Nos OS ossos, que aqui estamos, 
 Pellos vossos esperamos. 
 
 About three leagues from Evora, near Arrayolos, there is a 
 Croml^h which has all the distinguishing marks of the Drui- 
 dical altars known in our own country. 
 
 Hautefort speaks, though not much in the style of an expe- 
 rienced antiquarian, of another Celtic altar, which he found 
 between Pegoes and Vendas Novas: — " Pass6 Pdgoes, qui 
 n'est qu'un hameau, je vis dans un fond peu 61oign6 de la 
 route, une rang^e circulaire d'enormes blocs de pierre, au 
 nombre de douze, places debout, et un treizifeme au milieu. 
 Je descendis de voiture pour les examiner de prhs. II n'y a 
 pas de doute, que ces pierres se trouvent la par la main de 
 I'homme. En vouloir donner le motif ce serait se perdre en 
 vaines conjectures. Est-ce un monument appartenant au 
 culte des anciens Lusitans? Sont-ce tout simpleraent des 
 
502 PORTUGAL 
 
 supports 6\ev6s par des bergers afin d'y appuyer le toit d'une 
 cabane ? C'est ce que je n'assurerai pas. Cependant il est 
 probable, que ce sont des monumens Celtiques, comme ceux 
 qu'on trouve en France attribu^s aux Druides, de m6me qu'en 
 Angleterre sous le titre de Stonehenge. Au reste, les Stales 
 et les Antes sont des monumens des plus anciens peuples. 
 L'Ecriture Sainte nous en donne souvent la preuve en parlant 
 des pierres ^levees pour perpetuer la m^moire d'un 6v6ne- 
 ment." 
 
 " What nation, sect, or religion," says Mr. Borlase, in his 
 History of the Antiquities of Cornwall, " this kind of monu- 
 ment may be said properly to belong to, or had its rise from, 
 is a point not easily to be adjusted, seeing we find them in 
 Denmark, France, Germany, and in the isles of the Mediter- 
 ranean sea, adjacent to the coasts of Spain and France, in 
 Jersey, Ireland, Britain, and the British isles ; and perhaps in 
 many other countries they will occur, especially the northern 
 kingdoms, by which they should seem to have been Celtic 
 monuments, and with that numerous people carried into all 
 their settlements. 
 
 " That the Druids erected monuments of this kind, I think, 
 is more than probable ; for there are remains of several in 
 the Isle of Anglesea, and in places denominated from the an- 
 cient Druids, for instance, ' Kist-vaens,' or ' Stone-chests,' 
 covered, are called in Denbighshire, ' Kerig y Druidion,' 
 ' Druid-stones.' There are also many croml^hs still entire 
 in the west of Cornwall, where, by the number still remaining 
 of their monuments, the Druids must have been long fixed. 
 For which reasons I conclude, as well as for that the Chris- 
 tians never erected such monuments, that the Druids were 
 accustomed to erect monuments of this kind ; but they 
 cannot be said to be peculiar to the Druids, for we find 
 them also in many foreign parts, where the Druid priesthood 
 never took footing. Doubtless they are very ancient, as 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 503 
 
 appears by their simplicity, the grandeur and fewness of the 
 materials." 
 
 With respect to the etymology of the word " Cromleh," 
 after giving the "Welsh term " Cromlech," and stating the 
 Cornish, pronunciation to be " Crora L6h," " a flat stoue," 
 our author observes that " ' Crom,' or ' Crum,' Armoric^ 
 * Crewm,' has the signification of ' crooked,' and is a word 
 still in use among the Cornish in that sense. From ' Crom,' 
 or ' CrCim,' comes ' Crymmy,' 'bending, bowing;' whence 
 some conjecture that these stones were called Cromlech, from 
 the reverence and adoration which persons bowing paid to 
 them. If derived from the Hebrew, it will signify a devoted, 
 consecrated stone. 
 
 Mr. Borlase thinks it " very unlikely, if not impossible, that 
 the Cromleh should ever have been an altar for sacrifice ; for 
 the top of it is not easily to be got upon, much less a fire to 
 be kiudled on it sufficient to consume the victim, without 
 scorching the priest that officiated. I know that it is confi- 
 dently affirmed that all Croml^hs were places of worship ; but 
 this is a hasty, vague expression, and it was not at all consi- 
 dered by the authors how improper the dimensions and parts 
 of a Cromleh were for a place of w^orship. The top-stone is 
 too high for the priest to pour out his libations upon ; so that 
 it could in no sense serve the purpose of any altar, but only of 
 such an altar as was to receive the oblations and presents of 
 the assembly in honour of the deceased. That the ancients 
 might sacrifice near the Croml6h, is not unlikely ; whence it 
 comes to pass that great quantities of ashes may be found 
 near these monuments. The whole frame of the Cromleh 
 point* out evidently to us, several reasons to conclude that it 
 is a sepulchral monument. 
 
 " The supporters, as well as covering stone, are no more 
 than the suggestion of the common universal sense of mankind, 
 which was, first, on every side to fence and surround the 
 
504 PORTUGAL 
 
 dead body from the violences of weather and from the rage 
 of enemies; and in the next place, by the grandeur of its 
 construction, to do honour to the memory of the dead. Our 
 altar-tombs at this day are but a more diminutive and regular 
 Croml^h. Croml6hs are sometimes found on, and often sur- 
 rounded w^ith barrows. Now the barrow was one of the most 
 ancient and most general ways of interring the dead ; and 
 therefore its lying sometimes under, and at other times round 
 this monument, is no weak reason for the Croml^h to have 
 been a place of sepulture. 
 
 " It is very probable, therefore, that the use and intent of 
 the Cromleh was primarily to distinguish and do honour to 
 the dead ; and also to inclose the dead body, by placing the 
 supporters and covering-stone so as they should secure it on 
 all sides." 
 
 Estremoz, whose fortifications are in a good state of preser- 
 vation, celebrated for its white marble, and the earth com- 
 monly used in the Portuguese potteries for the manufacture of 
 porous water-vessels ; Monte Mor O Novo de las Manzanas, 
 whose Moorish walls now present only a heap of ruins ; Por- 
 talegre, an episcopal town ; the neighbouring fortress of Mar- 
 vao, supposed to be the Herminius Minor of the ancients, an 
 idea somewhat supported by the antiquities which have been 
 found in its neighbourhood ; Crato ; Campo Mayor ; the im- 
 portant fortresses of Elvas and La Lippe ; the fortified town 
 of Juraraenha, on the right bank of the Guadiana; Villa- 
 Vi(josa, formerly the residence of the Dukes of Braganza ; 
 Aviz, Serpa, on the left, and Vidigueira on the right of the 
 Guadiana; and the Comarca town of Ourique, so celebrated in 
 the Portuguese annals for the triumph obtained on the conti- 
 guous plain over the Moors in 1139, by Alphonso Henriquez; 
 with Mertola on the Guadiana ; — form the catalogue of prin- 
 cipal places in this province, which, by the bye, has very 
 frequently been the scene of bloody engagements between the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 505 
 
 forces of Spain and Portugal. The high road from Lisbon 
 into Spain passes through the Alemtejo, from Aldea Gallega 
 on the Tagus, by Villa de Pegoes, Vendas Novas, Arrayolos, 
 Venda do Duque, to Estremoz, and thence by Elvas to Ba- 
 dajos. 
 
 The episcopal city of Beja is worthy of a separate and more 
 detailed notice. As a Roman colony it was distinguished by 
 the name of Pax Julia, and at a later period of its history was 
 denominated Pax Augusta. It is situated upon a height, 
 which Denis strengthened by the construction of a fort, and 
 is considered to be the best specimen of military architecture 
 in Portugal. The Moors held it, according to Murphy, from 
 715 to 1162. The chief part of the modern town was built 
 by Alphonso III. At the distance of two leagues hence, the 
 Guadiana runs seven leagues of its course under ground, 
 namely, from the village of Argamasilla to the town of Day- 
 miel. The ancient town was rather to the east of the present. 
 The same author gives a detailed account, with accompany- 
 ing engravings, of several ancient fragments which have been 
 found here ; sepulchral monuments of marble, amphorae, 
 Etruscan vases and other utensils, lachrymatories, Roman 
 bricks, and inscriptive stones, with an ossuarium or sarco- 
 phagus. 
 
 The kingdom of Algarve is separated from the southern 
 portion of the Alemtejo by the Serra de Monchique to the 
 west, the highest part of which is called Serra de Foia, and 
 the Serra do Caldeirao to the east ; which mountain ranges 
 run nearly in a direct line from Odeseixe on the shores of the 
 Atlantic to the banks of the Guadiana below Alcoutim. From 
 the summit of the Serra de Foia an extensive prospect is 
 obtained over the whole of the province, with its winding line 
 of coast, and over a considerable portion likewise of the 
 Alemtejo. Round Monchique, Link observes, that every thing 
 is granite, as on the Serra de Foia, which entirely consists of 
 
506 PORTUGAL 
 
 it. On the north side only does the slate rise to a consi- 
 derable height. This Serra is unquestionably the highest 
 range of mountains on this side the Tagus, exceeding that of 
 the mountains of Cintra, and being perhaps but little lower, or 
 even a little higher than the Serra do Marao. The next 
 mountains on this side the Tagus, in point of height, are those 
 of Mertola. This province was added to the crown of Por- 
 tugal by Sancho II. The Moors subsequently recovered its 
 possession, but Alphonso III., by the capture of Faro on the 
 Rio Valformoso, finally established it a permanent portion of 
 the kingdom. The name of the Algarves was formerly given 
 to the whole line of coast running from the Cabo de San Vi- 
 cente to Almeira in Grenada, and to the corresponding coast in 
 Africa, opposite, including Ceuta and Tangiers, at the time in 
 the occupation of the Portuguese sovereigns. 
 
 In that part of his published lectures, where he arrives at 
 the volcanic rocks of Spain and Portugal, Professor Daubeny, 
 to whose personal investigation of the subject the mineralogist 
 and geologist are looking with considerable interest, observes, 
 that the chain of mountains which separates Portugal on its 
 southern extremity from the Province of Algarve, and termi- 
 nates in Cape St. Vincent, is said to be in many places tra- 
 versed by volcanos. The unhappy condition of the Peninsula 
 has, however, for many years past, thrown such obstacles in 
 the way of travelling, that we are even less informed with re- 
 gard to its geological structure, than we are respecting many 
 parts of America, or even of Asia. 
 
 Dolomieu, however, has noticed, in a letter to Faujas St. 
 Fond, in his work ' Sur les Volcains du Vivarais,' alternations 
 of basalt and limestone, as occurring near Lisbon. North of 
 that capital the limestone rests on the basalt, but on the road 
 from Cintra to Mafra, the two rocks are intermixed. 
 
 Some additional observations on this subject will be found 
 in the posj;hy.mous work on Madeira of Bowditch, published 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 507 
 
 ii^ 1825. He landed, it appears, at Lisbon, but did not pursue 
 his inquiries to any considerable extent. The deficiency in 
 our information respecting the mineralogy and geology, and 
 particularly about the volcanic districts of Portugal, would be 
 admirably supplied by the science and activity of Dr. Dau- 
 beny, and for the sake of these sciences it were much to be de- 
 sired that the Professor would throw the question of difficulties 
 aside, and venture upon ground almost untrodden. It is a 
 department most peculiarly his own, and the result of his re- 
 searches would undoubtedly add to his already justly-acquired 
 fame, as well as furnish fresh stores of valuable matter for the 
 mineralogist and geologist. 
 
 But, to go on with the Professor's statement : — In a moun- 
 tain a league from Mafra, at the foot of which the Lisbon road 
 passes, basalt is seen on the summit resting on limestone. 
 This basalt is of a semivitreous character, and is coated with a 
 sort of enamel-like porcelain. The calcareous rock, which 
 alternates with it, is pronounced by Bowditch to belong to the 
 tertiary class. 
 
 Dolomieu notices also in the Province of Beira, in Portugal, 
 a mountain of the range called the Serra da Estrella, the Mons 
 Herminius of the ancients, which is very lofty, is of a conical 
 form, and emits an hollow sound when we tread upon it, as 
 though it contained caverns. On the summit is a large exca- 
 vation with a lake at bottom, through which bubbles of air 
 arise. At its base are columns of basalt. 
 
 After passing from Sabugiieiro along the ridge of the moun- 
 tain range, to the highest summit of the Estrella, called Mal- 
 hap da Serra,: Link describes his arrival at the beautiful- Lagoa 
 Escura, or dark lake, which is so enclosed between high wild 
 rocks, that he could not pass round it. This lake, he says, 
 " is deep and cold, and the water receives a dark shade from 
 the reflection of the rocks and of the sky. The romantic situa- 
 tion of the liake among high wild mountains, and its fine round 
 
508 PORTUGAL 
 
 form, have given rise to many fabulous stories. It is said that 
 it has a connection with the sea, that it ebbs and flows with 
 it, is rough and stormy at the same time. That all this is false 
 I scarcely need assert. Thence we passed to the third or great 
 lake, called Lagoa Longa, or Comprida. I estimate the eleva- 
 tion of this range of mountains at five to six thousand feet 
 above the level of the sea, and even that perhaps exceeds the 
 fact. But the mountains of Spain and Portugal deceive the 
 eye extremely through their broken rocks and wild appearance, 
 which give them an Alpine character." 
 
 Professor Daubeny considers the volcanic rocks near Lisbon 
 to belong to the second or intermediate class of volcanic pro- 
 ducts, which he believes to be coeval with the rocks denomi- 
 nated tertiary, in his own division of them. These, he says, 
 being ejected under a pressure less considerable than what 
 existed in the older periods of the history of our planet, natu- 
 turally exhibit some variations in character from ancient basalt. 
 They are composed of a mixture of vitreous and cellular, with 
 stony and compact rocks, the former connecting them with 
 the modern, the latter with the more ancient products of fire. 
 Crystalline infiltrations are more common than in the former, 
 but less general than in the latter. Their subaqueous origin 
 is proved by their repeated alternations with Neptunian or 
 fresh-water deposits, often containing shells, which appear to 
 have resided undisturbed at the bottom of the water. They 
 occur chiefly in beds, the direction and origin of which it is 
 often difficult to trace, but which appear to be derived more 
 commonly from dykes than from craters. They consist either 
 of lavas of an homogeneous texture, referable to the general 
 heads of " felspar and augite porphyry," or of " tuffs," con- 
 sisting of an admixture of loose fragments of sundry volcanic 
 products. 
 
 For a more detailed description of these two classes of vol- 
 canic products, we must refer you to. the Professor's work, and 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 509 
 
 shall only further observe that the existence of undoubted 
 volcanic products, and of hot springs in the neighbourhood of 
 Lisbon and in other parts of Portugal, is interesting, as illus- 
 trative of the connexion between these phenomena and those 
 of earthquakes, which latter, if we adopt the views stated 
 elsewhere in Professor Daubeny's work, have been the more 
 destructive in Portugal, from the want of some permanent vent 
 existing at present, which, like Vesuvius, might afford a pas- 
 sage for the explosive materials, which appear from these facts 
 to be pent up in the bowels of the earth, underneath the greater 
 part of the country. 
 
 Volcanoes, the Professor further observes, are the chimneys, 
 or rather the safety-valves, by which the elastic matters are 
 permitted to discharge themselves without causing too great a 
 strain upon the superficial strata. Where they do not exist, 
 they give place to a visitation of a much more destructive na- 
 ture ; for those who have experienced a volcano and an earth- 
 quake will readily testify that the consequences of the one 
 are by no comparison lighter than those of the latter. The 
 same country is indeed often exposed to this double calamity ; 
 but that the existence of the volcano is even there a source of 
 good, appears from the fact that the most terrible effects are 
 felt at a certain distance from the orifice, although the focus 
 of the action is probably not far removed from the latter. The 
 agitations which took place during six years at Lancerote, 
 likewise show how much more destructive the effects of such 
 subterranean fire appear to be, where no permanent vent is 
 established. 
 
 The effects of the great earthquake in 1755 were severely 
 felt throughout the province of Algarve, and, particularly along 
 the line of coast from the Cabo de San Vicente to the banks of 
 the Guadiana. Many towns likewise in the south western 
 parts of the Alemtejo, and in that part of Estremadura to the 
 south of the Tagus, experienced its destructive consequences 
 to a dreadful degree. 
 
510 PORTUGAL 
 
 The fertility and poverty of this remote province are re- 
 markable. Its productions in corn, wine, oil, and fruits, such 
 as figs, grapes, and almonds, are abundant ; but owing to the 
 want of a convenient market for their sale, the value of these 
 articles is considerably diminished to the cultivators. This 
 province, to take the description of it by Link, is well-cul- 
 tivated; but this cultivation generally extends scarcely two 
 leagues inland, after which follow desert hills. Here are 
 "more wells than in other parts, probably the remains of 
 Moorish industry ; that people having continued longer in this 
 than in the other provinces. Oil is produced in great quanti- 
 ties, being considered as the best in Portugal, and exported. 
 The wine of this province is white, contrary to the general 
 custom of the country, but is good, and supplies a part of 
 Alemtejo. Figs constitute the principal produce of Algarve, 
 but almonds are grown in considerable quantities, especially 
 round Tavira, and are exported. Oranges are also grown, 
 particularly round Monchique and Faro. The common people 
 live principally on fish, and are very poor. The inhabitants 
 generally are less refined and less polite than the rest of the 
 Portuguese, but for their shrewdness and sharpness of wit 
 they are celebrated throughout the country, in this resembling 
 their neighbours the Andalusians. They are considered the 
 best mariners in Portugal ; hence great numbers of them emi- 
 grate, and most of the boatmen at Lisbon are from this 
 province.. There is no doubt that this province is capable of 
 great cultivation, though hitherto extraordinarily neglected. 
 In no part are the roads so bad, nor the apartments in the inns 
 so dirty. 
 
 The principal places in this province are Sagres, of which 
 we have already spoken, as being the residence of Henry, 
 duke of Vizeu, whence he directed the prosecution of his ma- 
 ritime discoveries, and which was called by him "Terca Na- 
 bal," and by others "Villa do Infante;" Lagos, formerly the 
 chief town of Algarve, situated on a declivity near the sea. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 511 
 
 where Lord St. Vincent cast anchor after he had gained his 
 great victory over the Spaniards oflF the Cabo de San Vicente, 
 (Proraontorium Sacrum,) about five leagues to the vt^estward ; 
 Villa Nova de PortimaS, and the contiguous town of Silves ; 
 Loul6, situated in a beautiful valley surrounded by lofty moun- 
 tains of limestone, where there are three monasteries and a 
 convent, in which last the aloe-threads are dyed and manu- 
 factured with great delicacy and neatness into baskets, artifi- 
 cial flowers, and other articles, which are sent to all parts of 
 the country ; Faro, an episcopal city, whose walls were con- 
 structed by the Moors, situated at the distance of about a 
 league from the sea, and opposite to the small sandy island 
 called " Ilha dos Caes," from which it is divided by a narrow 
 channel, called "A Barreta :" its chief export consists of 
 oranges, figs, other dried fruits, sumach, and cork ; Tavira, 
 the residence of the " Governador das Armas " of the province, 
 at the mouth of the Hio Sequa, which nearly intersects the 
 town, in whose neighbourhood the whole soil, as described 
 minutely by the German, is exceedingly well cultivated, and 
 adorned between the corn fields alternately with olive, almond- 
 trees, and the majestic carob, whose feathered and regular 
 leaf is beautifully opposed to the simple slender leaves of the 
 other trees. It was in this town, that the Marquis of Abran- 
 tes, a warm partizan of Don Miguel, induced the fourteenth 
 regiment of Infantry to desert the constitutional standard on 
 the 7th of October, 1826. By establishing a regency here in 
 the name of the Infante, as King of Portugal, the Marquis 
 gave a new importance to the place. The surrounding country 
 is one of the pleasantest in Portugal; hills of the chain of 
 Kmestone mountains crowd close round the town, which they 
 enclose with a wood of high shady trees, in whose bosom it 
 seems to repose. Among these trees every little vacant place 
 is cultivated either as a garden, or a corn field ; the trees are 
 varied in a pleasing manner ; the bright and cheerful leaf of the 
 
512 PORTUGAL 
 
 almond relieves the obscurity of the olive, which here, as in 
 general through Algarve and Andalusia, attains to a great size 
 and beauty. Thence Link went (through Castro Marina) to 
 Villa Real (de Santo Antonio de Arenilha,) built by the Mar- 
 quess Pombal, at the mouth of the Guadiana, where it forms 
 a port. This town is the well known monument of his des- 
 potic violence. On the opposite side of the Guadiana, ma- 
 jestically rises, proudly looking down on the hither side of the 
 river, the elevated Spanish bank, and on its declivity the large 
 Spanish town of Ayamonte with a number of handsome towers. 
 It was once the seat of great Moorish kings. Its tournaments 
 in former times were much celebrated, and in Spanish poetry 
 and romances the high-sounding name and example of the 
 Guadiana often occur; — the historical associations connected 
 with this river, are alluded to in the following beautiful lines 
 of our own immortal bard : — 
 
 But ere the mingling bounds have far been pass'd, 
 Dark '•' Guadiana" rolls his power along 
 In sullen billows, murmuring and vast, 
 So noted ancient roundelays among. 
 Whilome upon his banks did legions throng 
 Of Moor and knight, in mailed splendour drest : 
 Here ceased the swift their race, here sunk the strong; 
 The Paynim turban and the Christian crest 
 Mix'd on the bleeding stream, by floating hosts oppress'd. 
 
 The source of the Guadiana is in the Spanish province of 
 La Mancha, (New Castile.) After traversing Spanish Estre- 
 madura, it divides the Alemtejo into two unequal portions, and, 
 separating the two kingdoms of Algarve and Sevilla, empties 
 itself into the bay of Cadiz, between Castro-Marim and Aya- 
 monte. It is navigable only as far as the town of Mertola. 
 In its course it receives on the Spanish side the waters of the 
 Rio Ardela, the Rio Limas, the Chabeira, the Chanza, the- 
 Malagon, and the Rios Ruberta and Piedra ; and on the Por- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 513 
 
 tuguese, of the Rio Caya, above Elvas, the Rios Odiarea, Cor- 
 bes, Oeiras, Careiras, and Vascao. 
 
 The Tagus, (Rio Tajo in Spanish,) has its source in the 
 Sierra of Albarracin, which is situated in the northern part of 
 the province of Cuenca. In traversing Nevv^ Castile and Spa- 
 nish Estremadura, it passes by Aranjuez, Toledo, Cevolla, 
 Talavera, and entering Portugal between Rosraarinhal and 
 Alcantara, separates the Alemtejo from Portuguese Estrema- 
 dura, which latter province it divides into two unequal por- 
 tions ; and finally forming the magnificent port of Lisbon, 
 empties itself into the Atlantic ocean between San Juliao da 
 Barra and the Cabo de Espichel. It is navigable from its 
 mouth for flat-bottomed boats as far as Abrantes in summer, 
 and during the winter season to the confluence of the Rodao, 
 beyond which point its bed becomes so narrow and encum- 
 bered with rocks, that it is rendered quite impassable for 
 boats. In the neighbourhood of Villa Franca and Santarem, 
 below which town the full force of the tide is perceived, it fer- 
 tilizes widely extended plains, similar to the Campo do Mon- 
 dego, by annual inundations, and still lower down forms nu- 
 merous marshes of considerable breadth, on which large 
 herds of cattle are kept. Of its fabled gold we have already 
 spoken. 
 
 Having at length arrived at the close of my journal, and the 
 blue Peter summoning us on board the packet, it is now time 
 to think of England, and to release you from the loquacity of 
 a traveller in Portugal. We will only remark that the original 
 establishment of packet-boats to sail regularly between Fal- 
 mouth and Lisbon, was for the purpose of conveying to Catha- 
 rine of Braganza, after her return into Portugal, on the death 
 of her husband. King Charles H. of England, the monthly 
 payments of her dower. These vessels are now put upon the 
 best footing, and are admirably equipped in every respect. 
 Our experience in the voyages both out and home fully justify 
 Port. 2 K 
 
514 
 
 PORTUGAL 
 
 this assertion. For the liberal and intelligent commander of 
 the Sandwich packet, who has long been distinguished on the 
 station for the urbanity of his manners, and his many christian 
 virtues, it would be out of the order of things not to entertain 
 always many " Saudades," — in English, the sincerest respect 
 and regard — not unaccompanied by grateful recollections of the 
 kind solicitude and friendly attentions shown by him to an 
 invalid. We found his library and his cheerful conversation 
 great resources during our voyage homeward. 
 
 We owe likewise too large a debt of gratitude to our hos- 
 pitable and intelligent friends among the commercial ranks in 
 Portugal, not to take the deepest interest in the prosperity of 
 their country ; not heartily to desire the maintenance of its 
 liberties, and restoration to its former independence and rank 
 among the nations of Europe. 
 
 CKOMLJill NEAR AUKAYOLOS. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 515 
 
 FIRST SUPPLEMENTARY LETTER. 
 
 London, 1828. 
 
 The following documents kindly supplied, and without any 
 solicitation on the author's part, by James Warre, Esq., than 
 whom no gentleman is more intimately acquainted with the 
 internal affairs of Portugal, are of too valuable and important 
 a nature to be omitted from a work which pretends to the com- 
 prehensive task of giving a complete and faithful exposition of all 
 the various interests of that country. They will be found ad- 
 mirably to serve the purposes of " Illustration," for which every 
 kind of information has been diligently sought after ; — with re- 
 spect to matters of commerce, finance, politics, religion and litera- 
 ture, not losing sight of the national habits and manners, so as to 
 render this work in some degree worthy of its title, " Portugal 
 Illustrated." — The first of these papers is a translation of the 
 speech of the minister of finance, on presenting the budget to 
 the Chamber of Deputies, in February 1828. It will be read 
 with an increased degree of interest, when it is understood 
 that it is the first budget that was ever presented in Portugal 
 to the representatives of the people. It is in fact the only 
 authentic account of the state of the Portuguese finances that 
 was ever made public, and it has the additional value of being 
 official. 
 
516 PORTUGAL 
 
 The perusal of these documents will establish no very 
 favourable opinion as to the present state of Portugal, nor 
 encourage any sanguine expectations of its future prosperity. 
 As we have before observed, the work of renovation may be 
 expected to proceed but slowly in this unhappy country, and 
 may perhaps, after all, fail of its accomplishment, owing to 
 the inveterate prejudices of the great majority of the nation, 
 and the interests of those identified with the system of mis- 
 rule. The Constitutional Charter alone opens the door to 
 improvement; and upon its maintenance in full vigour the 
 enlightened classes of the Portuguese, perhaps not sufficiently 
 numerous, justly found all their hopes of the ultimate salva- 
 tion of their country. 
 
 The second document gives an account of the receipt and 
 expenditure of Portugal in 1827 ; in the third is contained an 
 estimate of the receipt and expenditure of Portugal for 1828; 
 in the fourth is stated the debt of Portugal at the commence- 
 ment of the present year ; and in the fifth is presented an 
 account of the revenue and expense of the Portuguese colo- 
 nies, as given in the budget of February, 1828. 
 
 To these papers we have added a document, furnished to us 
 by authority, showing the effective state of the Portuguese 
 constitutional army in the winter of 1827, just previous to the 
 recal home of the British troops, the period at which our 
 narrative concludes. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 517 
 
 No. I. 
 
 A Free Translation of the Speech of the Minister of Finance, on pre- 
 senting the Budget to the Chamber of Deputies at Lisbon, on the 11th 
 February, 1828. 
 
 Gentlemen, 
 
 In the administration of the affairs of the nation, in the ex- 
 penditure of the courts of justice and of the revenue, many economical regula- 
 tions may be made ; for every department requires reform. The result, how- 
 ever, cannot be transcendently efficient, or to a considerable amount, until the 
 departments of the state are placed upon the establishment that, according to 
 the Charter, they ought to be. 
 
 In fact. Gentlemen, it may be truly said, our grand evil arises from the pro- 
 fuse, squandering, improvident dissipation and w^aste of the means essential for 
 the public service, for want of a regular economical administration ; but by 
 which it is not to be understood that I think it unnecessary also to examine 
 minor articles of the public expenditure ; for, I again repeat, every department 
 of the state requires reform. 
 
 From what I have stated, the Chamber will perceive that the deficit of the 
 Treasury is susceptible of great diminution ; that, by a prudent but vigorous 
 economy, much may be done to improve the state of our finances. 
 
 Reforms are, however, indispensable ; but that they should be efficient, and 
 obtain an advantageous result, prudence and justice must guide the hand of 
 reform, without ever losing sight of the principle that economy does not consist 
 in not spending any thing, but in expending only that which is absolutely 
 necessary. 
 
 With respect to the estimate of the Board of Interests (Junta dos Juros), it 
 has sufficient resources to meet the payment of the interest, annuities, and 
 charges, to which it is liable, although they should amount to the whole sum 
 of R' 943,031,898, (about 188,606/. sterling) ; and allowing also that the 
 1010 Contos de Reis (about 202,000/. sterling) of the last loan, yet to, be 
 raised, should be completed. 
 
518 PORTUGAL 
 
 That the interest and sinking fund will bear heavily on that Board when the 
 whole loan is completed, is acknowledged ; nevertheless, it is to be hoped the 
 produce of the new tax upon stamps will meet the increased charge ; therefore 
 neither the government, nor the creditors upon the consolidated fund, have 
 anything to fear. I will repeat what I have before said, viz. that it is highly 
 satisfactory that Her Highness can assure the Chamber that, notwithstanding 
 the oscillations in the foreign exchanges, and in the greater part of commercial 
 transactions, the Apolices (bonds) of the Junta have not declined in price, not- 
 withstanding 33,000,000 of crowns are in circulation ; an unquestionable proof 
 of the favourable state of its credit, and of the confidence the public have in 
 their representatives when suflSciently guaranteed and respected. 
 
 Aware that I have sufficiently trespassed upon the indulgence of the Cham- 
 ber, I will say nothing upon the partial estimates of each of the departments 
 that are independent of the Treasury ; I will confine myself to observing ge- 
 nerally, that it will be highly expedient to concentre the receipts and expen- 
 diture of the state by retaining only two Boards of Treasury, (Caixas,) viz. one 
 for general receipts and disbursements, the other for public credits of the state. 
 
 I will also observe, but very concisely, that some of the estimates that refer 
 to our ultra-marine possessions appear to me to be imperfect, and even incor- 
 rect; and I must add that, in my opinion, the greater part of those govern- 
 ments require assistance, (subsidios) ; but that can only be conveniently ascer- 
 tained upon a view of their new balances. 
 
 The loan decreed by the law of the 31st March, 1827, was partly contracted 
 for by the Board of Interest (Junta dos Juros), under the conditions of the 
 decree of 19th of the following May. The Bank of Lisbon engaged for a part 
 upon the terms of the Alvara of the 29th July last. A copy of those stipula- 
 tions I now have the honour to present to you. The remainder of the loan, as 
 I have already stated, amounting to 1010 Contos de Reis, is yet unsubscribed 
 for. Upon this subject the House shall receive every information it may please 
 to require. 
 
 I now. Gentlemen, have only to account to this Chamber for the extra ex- 
 penses that occurred last year. 
 
 1st. The repairs of the line of battle ship, the John VI. The exact amount 
 we do not yet know, the accounts not having arrived ; we know, however, that 
 our minister in London was, under imperative circumstances, obliged to have 
 recourse to the credit of the house of Baring & Co. to borrow 15,000/. sterling, 
 at 6 per cent, interest, which loan, however, has been promptly repaid, with 
 the interest due. 
 
 2dly. The expenses on the ships sent to England. The outfit here cost 
 14,000,000rs. (about 2800/. sterling); and 36,000,000rs, (about 7200/. ster- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 519 
 
 ling) was remitted to Portsmouth at the disposal of the commander of the 
 squadron. 
 
 3dly. 9000Z. sterling was remitted to our agent in London to defray the ex- 
 penses of the journey of His Serene Highness Don Miguel, whom may Divine 
 Providence conduct in safety to Lisbon. 
 
 I conclude, Gentlemen, by proposing to this Chamber, in the name of 
 Her Highness, that they will take into their serioys consideration, what with 
 all fidelity I have had the honour to lay before them, of the actual necessities 
 of the state, in order that they may empower the government to relieve the 
 exigences of the nation, either through the medium of a reduction of the 
 expenditure, or by an increase of the revenue, or finally, in the last extremity, 
 through the means of a new loan that they may please to decree to be con- 
 tracted for on the best possible terms. 
 
 (Signed) Manoel Antonio de Carvalho, 
 
 Minister of Finance. 
 
 Lisbon, llth February, 1828. 
 
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No. IV. 
 
 ESTIMATE DEBT of PORTUGAL on 1st January 1828, as stated by Minister of Finance to 
 
 the Chamber of Deputies. 
 
 At the Junta dos Juros. 
 1st Loan pr. Alvara, October 1796, and 13th Marcl 
 
 1797 
 
 Lottery of 1806 
 
 2d Loan AWara 7th March 1801 .... 
 
 Consols 28th April 1812 
 
 3dLoan8lh July 1817 
 
 A polices or Bonds at 5 pr. cent. Carta de Lie 18 Sept. 
 
 1822 
 
 Apolices at 4 pr. cent. 24 February 1823 
 
 1000 Contos of Paper Money burnt by Alvara, July 
 
 1826 
 
 Loan 19th May 1827 
 
 Do. pr. Alvara 20th July 1827 . ■. 
 
 Public Treasury. 
 
 Capital Loan 16th October 1823 .... 
 
 Royal Interests. The annual Interests are estimated ai 
 270,000. Assuming that they are at .5 pr ; the Capital 
 on which they are paid will be . . . 
 
 Floating Debt contracted unto 30th Sept. 1822. 
 
 Paper Money in circulation estimated at . 
 Amount of Debt settled pr. Commission of 31st De- 
 cember 1826 . 
 
 Of which has been redeemed to 1st Sept. 1827 . 
 
 Floating Debt 
 
 Balances passed as pr. Law of 3d Feb. 1827 
 
 Estimated Debts to be paid 
 
 Voluntary Loan from Merchants of Oporto on Restora^ 
 
 tion 1808 
 
 Bills passed by the Commissariat .... 
 Loan from the House of Bandeira .... 
 Due to the Conde de Povoa ..... 
 
 Debts contracted since 1st of Octr. 1822. 
 
 Minister of War. 
 For the Troops to the 30th Sept. 1827 
 Commissariat do. 
 
 Arsenal of the Army ... 
 Military Works .... 
 
 By Minister of Marine to 30lh Sept 1827 . 
 Annuities and Pensions due 5 years, 240,000 
 Royal Interests 270,000, 4 years 
 
 Salaries about 
 
 Deposits in the Treasury estimated at 
 
 3,174,000 
 15,000 
 74,000 
 
 1,120,000 
 74,000 
 
 1,754,000 
 1,504,000 
 
 847,000 
 
 590,000 
 
 2,400,000 
 
 1,600,000 
 5,400,000 
 
 12,740,356 
 6,251,090 
 
 1,200,000 
 
 1,080,000 
 
 200,000 
 
 400,000 
 
 Whole Debt about 8 millions stg. 
 
 13,402,000 
 
 7,000,000 
 
 0,000,000 
 
 6,490,000 
 
 12,490,000 
 
 66,000 
 
 400,000 
 
 210,000 
 324,000 
 100,000 
 300,000 
 
 552,800 
 
 814,424 
 
 201,152 
 
 95,540 
 
 1,664,000 
 234,350 
 
 2,880,000 
 
 20,402,000 
 
 13,920,000 
 
 34,322,000 
 
 4,778,000 
 
 Rs. 39,100,000 
 
 In the forementioned sum of Rs. 39,100,000 Milreas, is not included 15 millions of Crowns con- 
 tracted for in England in the year 1823. On that is to be paid or is engaged a certain fixed portion 
 by the government of Brasil. 
 
 In the foregoing the fractions of Milreas are omitted, as they do not affect the whole. 
 
 (Signed) MANOEL ANTONIO CARVALHO. 
 
 Minister of Finance. 
 
No. V. 
 
 An ACCOUNT of the REVENUE and EXPENSE of the PORTUGUESE COLONIES, 
 as stated in the Budget of February, 1828. 
 
 I. of Madeira 
 
 Revenue. 
 
 Expenses. 
 
 245,363 
 
 264,307 
 
 of Azores 
 
 308,540 
 
 355,204 
 
 of Cato Verde 
 
 130,123 
 
 68,215 
 
 of Angola 
 
 177,900 
 
 176,187 
 
 of Benguella 
 
 31,335 
 
 41,217 
 
 Mozambique 
 
 226,607 
 
 187,993 
 
 East Indies 
 
 445,761 
 
 440,700 
 
 1,565,611 
 
 1,533,823 
 
524 
 
 PORTUGAL 
 
 EFFECTIVE STATE of the PORTUGUESE CONSTITUTIONAL ARMY in l1,e 
 
 Wintfr of 1827. 
 
 Eleven Regiments of Cavalry 
 
 Police Cavalry 
 
 Po'ice Infantry 
 
 Four Companies of Artillery 
 
 Engineers 
 
 Twenty Regiments of Infantry . 
 
 Eleven Battalions of Light Infantry 
 
 Four Regiments of Artillery 
 
 Militia Regiments . 
 Commercial Infantry 
 Commercial Cavalry 
 
 Men. 
 
 3,410 
 
 92 
 
 43G 
 
 251) 
 
 390 
 
 13,830 
 
 3.410 
 
 2,427 
 
 Total of Effective Regular Forces . 24,215 
 
 20,810 
 620 
 113 
 
 Total of Militia and of the Regular Forces . 51,688 
 
 THE TORRE DE SAN JULIAO DA BAKRA. 
 
 / 1 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 525 
 
 SECOND SUPPLEMENTARY LETTER. 
 
 BRIEF REVIEW 
 
 OF 
 
 THE LITERARY HISTORY OF PORTUGAL. 
 
 London, 1829. 
 
 The Portuguese language is not, as is generally and very 
 erroneously supposed, a corrupted dialect of the Castilian, 
 though their origiuEd affinity may haye left many traces of 
 resemblance between them. The two languages had in fact 
 nearly the same origin, namely, that of the Romsm conquerors 
 of the Peninsula ; but, while the Spanish combined the Latin 
 with the dialects of the Visigoths, and with the Arabic intro- 
 duced by the Moors, whence the guttural pronunciation of 
 many of its words, the Portuguese formed an union with 
 the idioms of the Suevi, and in the eleventh century, as is re- 
 marked by the reviewer of Mr. Denis's concise and well- 
 arranged volume, felt the influence of the French, under Count 
 Henry of Burgundy, the indication of these new elements 
 engrafted on the primitive Galician being discoverable in the 
 nasal intonation of the language. The invasion of the Romans 
 exercised, in the opinion of Mr. Denis, a permanent influence 
 on the language of Lusitania, the Latin being almost every- 
 where adopted, and the Roman alteration remaining nearly 
 
526 PORTUGAL 
 
 unchanged by the conquests of the Goths, and the subsequent 
 intrusion of the Moors. Thus the Latin continued the model 
 of the Portuguese language, and though passing through some 
 modifications, so firmly has it maintained its ground, that 
 many paragraphs might be cited, which would equally stand 
 for Latin or Portuguese. The Latin corrupted by the northern 
 invaders, and at a subsequent period by the Moors, who, to 
 the eternal glory of Portugal were early expelled from the 
 country, and who therefore had not time to introduce into it 
 the guttural of the Arabic, became the language of Galicia 
 and Portugal. This appears to be the distinctive character of 
 the two languages, considered as proceeding from one common 
 Roman origin, and undergoing in the process of time sundry 
 modifications. 
 
 A rather different opinion, however, appears to be enter- 
 tained on this subject by a classic writer on Portuguese litera- 
 ture in the Quarterly Review of ] 809, and as his acquaintance 
 with the language appears both profound and accurate, we 
 must in strict impartiality quote his own words, leaving it to 
 you to effect a reconciliation between these discordant judg- 
 ments. 
 
 " Like the Attic and Ionic branches of the Greek, the Por- 
 tuguese and Castilian dialects are two boughs of equal extent 
 and beauty, proceeding from one trunk. It was said by a 
 man of genius, that Spanish is just such a language as he 
 should have expected to hear spoken by a Roman slave, sulky 
 from the bastinado. The natives of Portugal, in a more com- 
 plimentary similitude, love to speak of their language as the 
 eldest daughter of the Latin : this daughter of Rome has been 
 the servant of the Goths and of the Moors; still, however, the 
 mother tongue predominates more in Portugal than in any 
 other part of the world. The Portuguese has about the same 
 proportion of Arabic as the Castilian ; but it has escaped all 
 guttural sounds : how these have been introduced into the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 527 
 
 Castilian would form a curious inquiry, for they certainly did 
 not exist in the first age of Spanish literature. The longer 
 and more intimate connection between the Castilians and 
 Moors, is a cause more obvious than satisfactory ; for though 
 the Portuguese cleared their country of the Moors at an early 
 period, yet their after intercourse with them in Africa and in 
 the east was very extensive, and they enriched their voca- 
 bulary without injuring the euphony of their speech. There 
 is nothing in their language which is in the slightest degree 
 unpleasant to the English ear, except a nasal sound, less 
 strongly marked, and far less disagreeable, than that which so 
 frequently recurs in French." 
 
 The difference between the Castilian and Portuguese lan- 
 guages is clearly proved in a short but very interesting essay, 
 entitled, a Review of the History of the Portuguese Language 
 and Poetry, prefixed to the Parnaso Lusitano, which was 
 published in 1826, at Paris. This work contains a selection 
 of poems by Portuguese writers, both ancient and modern, 
 arranged by the editor, Mr. Aillaud ; and the essay is highly 
 creditable to the taste and judgment of its learned author, the 
 Chevalier de Almeida Garrett. 
 
 The language of Portugal, observes this accomplished scholar, 
 like that of its rival Castile, is formed partly from the Celtic, 
 and partly from the Latin, and in some small degree from the 
 Arabic ; but the western portion of the peninsula has retained 
 more of the genius and peculiarities of the Roman tongue, and 
 has borrowed less from the Arabian, both in the construction 
 and in the character of its language, as well as in the pronun- 
 ciation and the exterior forms of it« idiom. Like its language, 
 the poetry of Portugal is more natural, simple, and has a 
 greater softness, than the Castilian. The Spanish poets may 
 be more wild and enthusiastic, but still their powers of per- 
 ception are inferior ; they are less the artists after nature, and 
 
528 PORTUGAL 
 
 they employ colours, which are at once more artificial and 
 glaring. The Portuguese, on the contrary, possess greater 
 depth of reflexion, a higher degree of sensibility, a more gentle 
 tone of feeling, and more of the truth of nature, — qualities, 
 which, though less dazzling than those by which the Spaniards 
 are distinguished, have nevertheless the greater power to 
 charm and delight the reader. 
 
 No language, perhaps, in Europe can trace to an earlier 
 date vestiges of its poetry and general literature, than the 
 Portuguese. Fragments of lyric poems, coeval with the in- 
 fancy of the monarchy and of still remoter date, are preserved, 
 and regarded with peculiar interest. Such, for instance, are 
 those by Egas Moniz, the companion and friend of Alphonso 
 I. ; and the song preserved by the celebrated chronicler, Fr. 
 Bernardo de Brito, the date of which may be referred to the 
 times of the first kings of Oviedo, some centuries previous to 
 the establishment of Portuguese independence. In addition 
 to these interesting monuments of antiquity, there are others 
 handed down by tradition only, and which claim to be of a 
 period equally remote. We allude to the popular songs or 
 romances, which from time immemorial have been current 
 among the lower orders of the people, the^ language of which, 
 though corrupted, and even the romantic ballads themselves 
 much mutilated by barbarism and ignorance, evince clearly 
 their high antiquity ; of which it would be difficult, if not im- 
 possible, to fix the exact date. One of these interesting ro- 
 mances, known to the common people of Portugal under the 
 fantastic appellation of chacras, has been restored by the Che- 
 valier de Almeida Garrett, and has been recently published 
 by him in the introduction to his elegant poem of Adozinda. 
 This traditionary romance is entitled Bernal and Violante, and 
 possessing, as it does, all the peculiar features which distin- 
 guish the poetical eifusions of the troubadours and feudal min- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 529 
 
 strels, would certainly meet with, a favourable reception in 
 England, were it versified by some magic hand, like that of 
 Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 Nearly all the primitive monuments of Portuguese literature, 
 "as the foreign reviewer states, "consist of love-songs and ballads 
 in the Galician dialect. The troubadours of Provence cannot 
 boast of greater antiquity, nor are there to be found in their 
 collections romances of equal beauty and simplicity with the 
 chacras, or xacras, of the Portuguese. With the exception of the 
 traditionary songs of the north, and the spirit-stirring effusions of 
 the Scalds, we know of no other poetical pieces which might 
 dispute priority of date with those of the ancient minstrels of 
 Portugal, save, perhaps, some of the Welsh poems, and some 
 early fragments of Irish poetry. 
 
 Though but as yet little moulded into form, the Portuguese 
 language nevertheless commenced, even in the first ages of 
 the monarchy, to assume a vigour of character, and to give 
 early evidence of its future capabilities. La Harpe, in his 
 "Cours de Litterature" affirms, that the first chivalrous ro- 
 mance which was ever published in any of the living lan- 
 guages of Europe, is decidedly of Portuguese origin ; namely, 
 that of the celebrated Amadis de Gaul, by Vasco de Lobeira, 
 which has been translated in every country of Europe, and 
 lately into English by Mr. Southey. Under the fostering 
 care of the sovereigns of Portugal, the language now made 
 rapid strides to perfection; already enumerating its minstrels, 
 its chroniclers, and writers of romance, until at length, in 
 the fifteenth century, during the reign of Emmanuel, it pos- 
 sessed its regular historians and poets, and, what is more, its 
 dramatic poets. Gomes d'Azurara, Fernam Lopes, Rezende, 
 and afterwards Barros, surnamed the Livy of Portugal, and 
 who wrote the history of the Portuguese conquests in the 
 East, successively challenged public attention. About the 
 same time also many other historical and poetical writers 
 Port. 2 L 
 
530 PORTUGAL 
 
 flourished, of whom it will be sufficient to mention the most 
 remarkable. Azurara was employed by Alphonso V., who 
 was the first to ordain a history of Portugal in Latin, in col- 
 lecting materials in Africa for perfecting its chronicles ; Lopes, 
 whose writings are exact and philosophical, often, too, appeal- 
 ing to the heart, is considered the father of Portuguese history. 
 Rezende and Barros have both their own peculiar merits. 
 
 Bernardim Ribeiro, who wrote towards the end of the 
 fifteenth century, in addition to his romance, entitled "Me- 
 nina e Moga," or The Young and Youthful, published idyls 
 and pastoral pieces, distinguished for their beauty and sim- 
 plicity. About the same time, Gil Vicente composed for the 
 court of Emmanuel some dramatic pieces, in which, though, 
 to say the truth, the ancient and classic forms of the drama 
 are ijot followed, nor are the energetic and manly beauty of 
 the Greek dramatists, nor the richness and variety of our 
 own Shakspeare to be found, yet are they to be considered as 
 marvellous productions for the period at which they were 
 written. This same author gave the world comedies, likewise 
 autos, mysteries, or representations of scriptural subjects, and 
 also some farces. Copies of this author's works are extremely 
 scarce. The late King of Portugal is said to have possessed 
 one. Considering the great importance of his writings, and 
 particularly to the history of the Portuguese and Spanish 
 stage, it is to be hoped that a new edition of Gil Vicente will 
 be undertaken by some one competent to the task. 
 
 However ill-appreciated for want of being more generally 
 known, Portuguese literature and science may be at the 
 present day, it is indisputable that the Portuguese nation, at 
 the epoch of which we have been speaking, had made greater 
 progress in the sciences than all the other countries of Europe. 
 The mathematical knowledge of Pedro Nunes, the maritime 
 discoveries of Magalhaes, known generally by the name of 
 Magellan, the celebrated Academy, and the Observatory 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 5:31 
 
 erected by the Infante D. Henriquez on the rock of Sagres, 
 are so many proofs to the truth of this assertion. Consider- 
 able advances were likewise made in the art of painting, spe- 
 cimens of which still remain to challenge admiration in the 
 church of the knights of the order of St. James at Palmella, 
 as likewise at Thomar, in that of the military order of Christ, 
 which was formerly the chief possession of the Portuguese 
 Knights Templars ; again, the paintings by Gran' Vasco, or 
 Vasco the Great, whose style is rude, and whose knowledge, 
 with that of all his cotemporaries, of perspective, is limited 
 and imperfect, may yet claim the merit of rich and felicitous 
 design. These early specimens of the art of painting in Por- 
 tugal have the additional interest attached to them of higher 
 antiquity than can be asserted of any other school in Europe, 
 excepting that of Sienna. 
 
 But it was during the reign of John III., the son and suc- 
 cessor of Emmanuel, that the belles lettres may be said to 
 have flourished more particularly in Portugal. At that time 
 the university of Coimbra, founded and cherished by King 
 Denis, was in all its splendour ; the learned languages were 
 cultivated by the Portuguese youth ; and though perhaps the 
 influence of classical literature tended to make their character 
 less natural and less national, it still happily conduced to the 
 polish and refinement of the vernacular tongue, enriched it 
 with a vast acquisition of new terms, and at length terminated 
 by perfecting its form, and imparting to it that dignified so- 
 lemnity observable in the cantos of the Lusiad, and which 
 excited the admiration of all Europe, when it was perceived 
 that Camoens had seized the lyre of Homer, and that heroic 
 subjects, hitherto considered the sacred and exclusive pro- 
 perty of the ancient world, could be handled successfully by a 
 modern poet, and among a people regarded as not yet com- 
 pletely civilised. 
 
 We must not omit to remark here that Camoens, in point 
 
532 PORTUGAL 
 
 of time, very much preceded the Italian poet Tasso ; and that 
 for the complete success of this father of modern epic poetry 
 in his new career, it was necessary that the language in which 
 he wrote should have already attained to a high degree of 
 perfection. The productions of this immortal poet have been 
 made sufficiently known to the literati of England, not only 
 by the classical translations of Mr. Mickle, Mr. Musgrave, 
 and Lord Strangford, but by the interesting memoirs lately 
 given to the public by Mr. Adamson, which are not more 
 honourable to the fame of the Portuguese poet, than they are 
 to the biographer himself. 
 
 There are many writers nearly cotemporary with Camoens, 
 whose poems abound with beauties which deserve the atten- 
 tion of persons of taste, and which indeed deservedly occupy 
 a prominent station in the history of modern literature. Por- 
 tugal boasts not only of having been the birth-place and cradle 
 of romance, and the fountain-head of the epic poetry of the 
 moderns, but justly claims likewise the invention of modern 
 tragedy, — a pretension, however, rejected by some writers. The 
 Sophonisba of Trissino, and the Castro of Antonio Ferreira, 
 appeared nearly at the same time ; and one thing may be fairly 
 asserted, that the Portuguese tragedy of Ferreira is as supe- 
 rior to the Italian of Trissino, as the Lusiad is to his poem of 
 " Italia Liberata." There are certainly many defects to be 
 discovered in the tragedy of Castro, but there are likewise 
 beauties in sufficient number, and of character, ' to excite the 
 interest of the English literati, who, less selfish and vain than 
 the French critics, delight in the discovery as in the applause 
 of merit, wherever it occurs. Leaving to the Portuguese and 
 the Italians the task of deciding the question of priority 
 between these two tragedies, we will venture to affirm that 
 there can be no question as to their comparative beauties. 
 The Castro of Ferreira partakes of the ancient tragedy of the 
 Greeks in all its purity and simplicity, as most certainly in 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 533 
 
 all its defects. The choruses, however, possess an elegance 
 and a charm which cannot be equalled, perhaps even by those 
 celebrated lines in the "Athalie" of Racine. An English 
 translation of this tragedy, with a memoir of its excellent and 
 worthy author, was published in 1825, by Mr. Musgrave. 
 
 Antonio Ferreira has likewise composed two comedies, 
 which in truth are perhaps too much after the style of Te- 
 rence ; the consequence of which is, that, fully asserting the 
 excellence of the Roman comedian, they do not possess the 
 character of nationality. However, his comedy, entitled " O 
 Cioso," or The Jealous Man, is considered a chef dceuvre for 
 the period at which it appeared. The characters are pointedly 
 drawn and fairly sustained ; the plot is simple, agreeable to 
 truth, and happily conceived ; and the developement is quite 
 natural. In short, Ferreira, and Sa de Miranda, whom he 
 called his master, introduced into Portugal a classical taste, 
 and so completely established themselves at the head of the 
 new school, that the influence of their example continued to 
 rule the public for ages after their deaths. The eclogue, the 
 satire, the ode, and the epistle, owing to their exertions, took 
 possession, as it were, of the Portuguese poetry, which thence- 
 forward abandoned the narrow track marked out by its ancient 
 minstrels, to follow the broader and more classic route adopted 
 by the poets of the Greeks and the Romans. But notwith- 
 standing this alteration of taste and change of style, the spirit, 
 the genius, and the peculiar character of the nation were still 
 to be discovered forcing their singularities through the new 
 disguise of classic perfection. In the works of Sa de Miranda, 
 the most decidedly beautiful specimens of the former style of 
 romance frequently occur. The same may be asserted of 
 Camoens in his " Canfoes," or romantic songs, as well as 
 with respect to many others. But still, notwithstanding these 
 apparent struggles for existence by the olden and national 
 
534 PORTUGAL 
 
 style, the new and classical mode finally prevailed in all the 
 compositions of Portuguese writers. 
 
 Jeronimo Cortereal, the cotemporary of Camoens, was a 
 brave soldier and a gentleman, possessing all the chivalrous 
 feelings of the warlike period in which he lived. Before the 
 author of the Lusiad had given his immortal poem to the 
 world, Jeronimo had composed two epic poems. The subject 
 of one of these poems is the celebrated siege of Diu, main- 
 tained b^ the Portuguese under the command of Masca- 
 renhas, and afterwards under that of the distinguished viceroy 
 of India, John de Castro, against the whole weight of the 
 Ottoman power. With the exception of his description of the 
 four quarters of the world, which might enter into comparison 
 with that of Camoens, and the magnificent picture of a city 
 delivered to the flames, which is wonderfully effective, this 
 poerii, composed in blank verse, is upon the whole rather 
 prosaic and uninteresting. The subject of the other poem is 
 the tedious relation of the attachment and misfortunes of 
 Leonor de Sepulveda and her husband, who were both ship- 
 wrecked on the coast of Africa. There is something exceed- 
 irtgly ridiculous in the introduction and management of the 
 marvellous in this composition ; but still it cannot be denied 
 that there are striking beauties to be discovered in some of 
 the scenes, which are simple, accordant with the truth of 
 nature, and which exhibit an exquisite degree of sensibility, 
 concealed under the rough exterior and the false ornaments 
 employed by this old military poet of the fifteenth century. 
 
 Diogo Bernardes, surnamed the Portuguese Theocritus, is 
 the author of numerous idyls and eclogues, the principal merit 
 of which consists in the flowing, easy, and elegant character 
 of their diction, not to omit some beautiful descriptions, and 
 some instances of charming scenery, which deserve to be 
 known and appreciated. 
 

 ^■^k 
 
 ■i .. 
 
 
 
 *■ r 
 
 
 y 
 
 
 
 ■^ -^ .../-.r.^ ,'-•4 f 
 
 '^^— *".'■--/ .*t '.if.- «, ¥^^,'2 V 
 
 ? '-^'^ S. ,\\ l&t • •>■ 
 
 l.ris id':e 
 
 C AM© Eai'S. 
 
 1572 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 635 
 
 Caminha, whose works have only been recently published 
 by the Academy of Sciences at Lisbon, has written some odes 
 in the classical style, but they are dry and unimpassioned ; 
 — numerous epigrams likewise, many of which are excellent ; 
 as well as epistles, in the best manner of Horace ; and lastly, 
 some idyls, which are not without merit. He is much 
 esteemed by the Portuguese for the purity of his language. 
 After all, however, he will be found much more interesting to 
 a native of Portugal than to a foreigner. 
 
 We have now arrived at that memorable epoch when, by 
 the effort of one grand and powerful genius, the literature of 
 Portugal was elevated above that of every other country in 
 the world. Trissino and Ariosto had previously attempted 
 the style of epic poetry ; and Dante, before them, had em- 
 ployed in his singular and admirable poem, the modern con- 
 ception of the marvellous and grand ; but neither of them had 
 soared so high as to dare the arduous task of giving to the 
 modern inhabitants of Europe, and in one of the living lan- 
 guages, a strictly national epic poem. To achieve this was 
 reserved for Camoens, who at once astonished and captivated 
 Europe by the novelty of his design, and the brilliancy of his 
 verse ; and who then proved to the admiring literati of the 
 time, that if Homer and Virgil were the just pride of the 
 classic ages, the spirit of epic poetry was not extinguished, 
 but had only slumbered, to revive at a later period in the epic 
 poet of Portugal. 
 
 It was natural, indeed, to expect that the bold spirit of adven- 
 ture which had urged the Portuguese to undertake perilous en- 
 terprises, and attempt distant conquests, would awaken the spirit 
 of heroic poetry in the nation, and produce for Gama his Homer. 
 Animated by an ardent patriotism, and full of enthusiastic 
 admiration of the valour and constancy by which the Portu- 
 guese had conquered their country from the Moors; had 
 founded a monarchy, and supported its independence against 
 
536 PORTUGAL 
 
 the superior forces of Castile ; with which, after having con- 
 firmed itself at home, it passed into Africa to fix barriers to the 
 Moorish power ; and at last traversed new seas, and esta- 
 blished a magnificent empire in the East; — Luiz de Camoens 
 conceived the design of erecting a monument to his country's 
 fame, which, transmitting these heroic deeds to posterity, 
 should perpetuate the glory of Portugal, and attest that no 
 other nation had ever acquired an equal degree of renown. 
 The plan of this poem he had conceived at a very early period 
 of life, and a portion of it was composed previously to his 
 departure for India in 1553, where it was finished in 1570. 
 It is material to remember these dates, because they establish 
 for the poet most completely the glorious title of priority in 
 the composition, in modern times, of a regular and justly- 
 esteemed epic poem. 
 
 The discovery of India, achieved by the expedition of Vasco 
 da Gama, is the only and complete action of the poem, the 
 plan of which is conducted according to the classical regularity 
 laid down by the ancients. The fable is perfectly distinct. 
 In the opening stanzas the poet explains his subject, invokes 
 the nymphs of the Tagus, addresses himself to the youthful 
 sovereign Sebastian in order to obtain his protection, and then 
 enters at once upon the middle of the action. Subsequently, 
 he introduces into the narrative, as appropriate episodes, those 
 events in the history of Portugal which prepared the nation 
 for so grand an undertaking, and for the foundation of their 
 vast empire in the East, and ultimately led, through the 
 direct opening of the na:vigation and commerce of Asia, to the 
 civilization and liberty of Europe, and to the extension of her 
 knowledge and riches. 
 
 The Lusiad has been the subject of frequent criticisms; and 
 Monsieur MilM, and our own Mickle and Musgrave, have all 
 done justice to the original poem in their several translations. 
 Madame de Stael has eulogised and pointed out the beauties 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 537 
 
 of this first among the epic poets of the moderns, and Lemer- 
 cier has not withheld his meed of admiration. Camoens, 
 therefore, has been sufficiently avenged for the harsh criti- 
 cisms of Rapin, the severe strictures of Adrien Baillet, and 
 the unjust censures of Voltaire and La Harpe. Chateau- 
 briand and Andres have concurred in assigning to the author 
 of the Lusiad a high rank among poets, and have asserted his 
 claims to priority over the moderns in restoring the heroic 
 verse of the ancients; but among those who have published 
 their opinions on the poem of Camoens, Manoel de Faria e 
 Souza, Mr. Mickle, Don Joz^ Maria de Souza, Mr. Adamson, 
 and Mr. Garrett, are the most entitled to claim attention. 
 
 Like Cervantes, Alonzo d'Ercilla, and Garcilasso de la Vega, 
 of whom the Spaniards make a boast, the poet who undertook 
 to celebrate the first conquerors of India was likewise a war- 
 rior, and passed his life in combats or in distant expeditions 
 of danger. Previously to his departure for India, Camoens 
 bore arms in a naval engagement off Ceuta with the Moors, in 
 which a splinter deprived him of his right eye. This was 
 during the reign of Joao III. At length, in 1553, he sailed 
 for India, and arrived at Goa, in the September of that year, 
 to seek a living where his father had already found a grave. 
 In India his life was checquered with vicissitudes, and clouded 
 by misfortunes ; and his latter years were embittered by the 
 cruel neglect of his sovereign and by actual want. At Macao 
 a grotto is still shown, wherein tradition reports that Camoens 
 spent the greater part of his time in the completion of his 
 poem. After various changes of fortune, he embarked for 
 Europe, in order to lay the Lusiad before the young king, 
 Dom Sebastian. The time of his arrival was most unpropi- 
 tious, for his native city was desolated by the plague, and 
 little attention therefore could be expected for the poet. 
 After a period of two years, empldyed in the revision of his 
 poem, the Lusiad was first published in 1572, and dedicated 
 to Dom Sebastian, who conferred on the bard an annual pen- 
 
538 PORTUGAL 
 
 sion not exceeding twenty pounds, according to the present 
 value of money. In 1578 Sebastian invaded Africa. The 
 fatal issue of the memorable battle of Alcazar Kebir is well 
 known, in which the flower of the Portuguese nation perished, 
 and the glory of Portugal was extinguished. In a letter 
 written by him, when expiring on a wretched bed, and at a 
 time when the sceptre of Portugal was wavering in the imbe- 
 cile hand of the Cardinal D. Henry, the poet presaged the 
 downfall of his country, — " At last I shall finish my life, and 
 all shall see that I loved my country so much, that not only 
 was I contented to die in it, but also to die with it." The 
 monument erected to his memory in the church of Santa Anna 
 at Lisbon, with a Latin and Portuguese inscription, disappeared 
 at the time of the last dreadful earthquake ; but posterity has 
 done ample justice to the patriot and the poet, and, unin- 
 fluenced by the ingratitude of his country or the neglect of the 
 powerful, has rescued his name from oblivion, and given it 
 immortality ; whilst his lyre, more durable than a tablet of 
 stone, will continue to be heard with delight throughout the 
 habitable world. 
 
 The prosperity of Portugal now continued visibly to decline; 
 the monastic system, and the powers possessed by the Inqui- 
 sition, were enveloping the country in the depths of moral 
 degradation and darkness ; and at length the usurpation of 
 the throne by the Castilian Philips completed the annihilation 
 of Lusitanian glory. The arts and the sciences were gradually 
 neglected ; the muses were discouraged ; and every effort of 
 the poet and historian was repressed by the chill hand of 
 despotism, or perverted by tyranny to falsehood and base 
 adulation. The intrusion of the Spaniard extended its injuries 
 even to the language of Portugal. 
 
 Notwithstanding, however, the darkness of this intellectual 
 night in Portugal, poets and other writers did, like meteors, 
 occasionally flash across the gloom. Vasco Mousinho de Que- 
 bedo celebrated, in an epic poem, entitled " Affbnso Africano," 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 531) 
 
 or Alphonso the African, the conquest of Mauritania by the 
 prince Alphonso V. It certainly possesses considerable beau- 
 ties, some painting and descriptive scenes of unusual excel- 
 lence, and the style is at once ornamental, easy, and often 
 dignified ; while nothing can be more harmonious than the 
 flow of the metre. Still, Quebedo is deficient in originality, 
 and his imitation of Tasso, who, at the time he wrote, was in 
 general esteem, is too evident. 
 
 The " Malaca Conquistada" of Menezes, a member of one 
 of the most illustrious families in Portugal, is also an imitation 
 of the Jerusalem Delivered. Its style is frequently inflated, 
 and not often natural, and besides, is occasionally infected 
 with extravagant antitheses ; but still it has some beauties ; 
 for instance, the picture of hell at the commencement, and 
 the discourse of Lucifer in the Pandemonium, recall that of 
 Milton to the memory ; nay, even sometimes compete with it, 
 and perhaps in one or two instances even surpass it. The 
 translation of this splendid passage into the language of 
 Milton would be well worthy the attempt of some master 
 mind. 
 
 Another remarkable epic poem is that by Dr. Gabriel 
 Pereira da Costa, an upright magistrate and an eminent lawyer, 
 who has written likewise a long treatise, entitled " De Manu 
 Regia," a work held in great estimation by professors of the 
 legal science ; in which perhaps he has been the first to esta- 
 blish the line of demarcation between civil and political power, 
 and that arrogated by the church, upon which depends the 
 most important guarantee of popular liberty in a Catholic 
 country. We must not, however, expect to find in the works 
 of a professor of law and a magistrate, who lived in the six- 
 teenth century, those enlightened views of the spirit of laws, 
 and those transcendental theories which characterise some 
 modern writings on the subject ; but still it is sufiicient for 
 the literary glory of Portugal, that such a work should have 
 
540 PORTUGAL 
 
 been undertaken by one of her writers, and at such a period 
 in her history. This celebrated lawyer might also have 
 become a distinguished poet, had he not given in to all the 
 errors and bad taste for which the metrical writers of his age 
 were remarkable. An exaggeration and false glitter, with 
 numerous conceits of style, have entirely destroyed the cha- 
 racter of an epic poem, which, from its kind, the choice 
 of the subject, the simplicity of the plan, the regularity, 
 the symmetrical arrangement of the whole, would have 
 been, were it not for those defects, if not the most original, 
 at least the most beautiful and most highly finished of all 
 the epic poems published in modern times. The interesting 
 subject of this poem is the foundation of Lisbon, under 
 the title of " Ulyssea," or " Lisboa Edificada," " Lisbon 
 Founded by Ulysses," according to the assertion of ancient 
 historians. In spite of the defects which we have pointed out, 
 it is nevertheless but just to notice his description of Helen 
 after the siege of Troy, and of a wild-boar hunt, and to say, 
 that there are many other detached pieces in the poem which 
 evince the spirit of a great poetical genius, unshackled by the 
 false ornaments and bad taste of the age. 
 
 A little after this period, numerous poets and prose-writers 
 of every kind flourished in Portugal ; some of whom, like the 
 celebrated Faria e Souza, abandoned their own beautiful lan- 
 guage for the guttural Castilian. Among these literary trai- 
 tors, as they may be denominated, is to be reckoned, un- 
 luckily for the fame of the Portuguese literature, J. de 
 Monte-Mayor, the author of the celebrated romance entitled 
 " Diana." 
 
 Bernardo de Brito, a Cistertian, or white friar, wrote about 
 this time his general history of Portugal under the title of 
 " Monarchia Lusitana." The memoirs of the saintly and 
 noble Archbishop of Braga, the light and pride of the Portu- 
 guese church, who, at the Council of Trent, boldly and firmly 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 541 
 
 urged the necessity of marriage for the priesthood, and the 
 abolition of the law enjoining sacerdotal celibacy, also ap- 
 peared. These interesting memoirs, which relate the pro- 
 ceedings of the last general council, are written with an 
 elegance and a purity untinctured by the vicious style of the 
 age, that have secured for their author, Fr. Luiz de Souza, the 
 utmost degree of estimation among the Portuguese. In addi- 
 tion to numerous chronicles, poems of different kinds, learned 
 treatises upon law, the mathematics, navigation, and many 
 other subjects, the Portuguese abounded, about this time, in a 
 class of writers who, it may be fairly asserted, have set the 
 example of, and have introduced into the modern literature of 
 Europe, the taste for that style of writing, at once so honour- 
 able and useful, and which at present is so universally patro- 
 nised by all classes in society — the narratives of travellers. 
 
 Since a comprehensive history of the literature of Portugal 
 cannot possibly be contemplated in this brief sketch, and as 
 our design is merely to supply the reader with a general 
 notion of its principal features, we must pass in silence over 
 the names of a crowd of remarkable authors, poets, philoso- 
 phers, lawyers, and historians, who might justly challenge the 
 admiration of Europe, had their works been written in a lan- 
 guage more universally known. We have now, then, arrived 
 at that period which the Portuguese designate the third epoch 
 of their literature. It had almost expired, when the spirit of 
 independence, which has always distinguished the nation, 
 burst forth in the ever memorable and glorious revolution of 
 1640, which tore asunder the Castilian chains, and placed the 
 Lusitanian crown upon the head of John IV., the first sove- 
 reign of the Braganza dynasty. Influenced by the general 
 electricity of the times, the literature of Portugal in part 
 recovered from the degraded condition in which the tyranny 
 of the Gastilian usurpers had left it. 
 ' It was then that Antonio Vieyra appeared before the public. 
 
542 PORTUGAL 
 
 a truly literary man, and one of the most powerful orators 
 that adorned the seventeenth century. The style of his writ- 
 ing is always perfect, and in every page the reader will dis- 
 cover images, beauties, and energetic passages, which, if they 
 do not remind him of the elegance of Cicero, will at least recall 
 to his recollection the force and impetuosity of Demosthenes. 
 The Abb^ Raynal, in his History of America, has done ample 
 justice to this great Christian orator, and has quoted a splendid 
 passage from a sermon which he preached at Pernambuco, 
 whilst that city was besieged by the Dutch. On one point 
 Vieyra is said to have been insane ; but there never lived a 
 more eloquent or a more virtuous man. He was a profound 
 statesman likewise, when his insanity did not interfere. The 
 worth of this amiable and great man, and the value of his 
 writings, have been duly and sufficiently set forth by Mr. 
 Southey, in the second volume of his admirable History of 
 Brasil ; in no other work is there to be found so full an 
 account of this most interesting character. 
 
 The Chevalier de Almeida Garrett, whose name we must 
 mention again, since he is the only Portuguese who has 
 written any work on the literature of his country, if we except 
 the papers which have appeared in the " Memorias da Litte- 
 ratura," published by the Royal Academy of Sciences at 
 Lisbon, attributes to Vieyra and to one of his cotemporaries, 
 Jacinto Freire de Andrada, the final destruction of all good 
 taste in the literature of Portugal. He is of opinion that 
 their tasteless antitheses and inflated diction succeeded in 
 establishing themselves under the imposing authority of the 
 names of their authors, and thence that the imitation of their 
 faulty style became general. At the same time, we might 
 venture to differ from this respectable literary character, and 
 urge, on the contrary, that the national taste had already been 
 corrupted, and that Vieyra and Andrada were rather in- 
 volved themselves in the torrent, than that they were the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 543 
 
 means of hurrying others along in a vicious course of compo- 
 sition. 
 
 Andrada is the author of the Life of D. John de Castro, the 
 celebrated viceroy of India, who triumphed at Goa like the 
 ancient generals of Rome. The valour exhibited about this 
 period by their soldiers in the East, will sufficiently account 
 for the vanity of the Portuguese nation. This piece of bio- 
 graphy, with the exception of some occasional exaggerations, 
 notwithstanding what has been said above, may be taken as a 
 model of the language, both with respect to choice of expres- 
 sions and the purity of the style. About the same period 
 there was a galaxy of poets, who then were held in much 
 esteem, but who are neglected or overlooked in modern times. 
 Of this number was the Conde da Eryceira, the friend and 
 the translator of Boileau ; and Violante do Ceo, a nun, a 
 writer of sacred poems, wherein her enthusiastic mind has 
 pictured the delights experienced by a human soul in the 
 embraces of divine love. She was designated the tenth muse. 
 Such was the fantastic and extraordinary taste of those times 
 in Portugal, and which, everywhere else in Europe, yielding to 
 the illumination of new discoveries and sciences, and their be- 
 neficial influence, nevertheless maintained there obstinately its 
 ground, owing to the intrigues and interference of the Jesuits, 
 who were then, unfortunately for the country, all-powerful. 
 
 Nearly one-third of the eighteenth century had already 
 passed away, when Joseph I. mounted the throne of Portugal, 
 reposing all his confidence in the Marquess of Pombal. Then 
 it was that the nation beheld the Jesuits crushed by the 
 enlightened minister, the authority of the Inquisition re- 
 strained, the power of the papal chair menaced, and, as the 
 necessary consequences of these important events, the arts, the 
 sciences, the belles lettres, agriculture, manufactures, and 
 commerce, flourishing with renewed vigour. Then appeared 
 the philologian Freire, who, under the assumed name of " Can- 
 
544 PORTUGAL 
 
 dido Lusitano," published at the time several works eminently 
 distinguished by their good taste, the purity of their style, 
 and an extensive know^ledge of ancient and modern literature. 
 The life of the Infante D. Henriquez, the celebrated prince 
 and mathematician, to whose enterprising genius Europe is 
 indebted for the discoveries made by his navigators in the 
 Atlantic sea, the passage ,to the eastern peninsula by the Cape 
 of Good Hope, and in short for all the improvements in modern 
 navigation, and for the extension of modern commerce, is one 
 of the most interesting and best written pieces of biographical 
 history in the language. Father Antonio Pereira also then 
 completed his translation of the Bible, which is much esteemed 
 for its fidelity and classical elegance. This illustrious cham- 
 pion of the Portuguese church vigorously assailed in several 
 publications the papal predominancy in his country. His 
 work, entitled " Tentativa Theologica," which was translated 
 into Latin, Spanish, and Italian, nearly excited a revolution at 
 Rome. The Pope and the Cardinals were thrown into a state 
 of the utmost consternation ; and the consequence was, that 
 they conferred the honour of excommunication upon the Por- 
 tuguese theologian, which contributed to his fame quite as 
 much as it showed to the world the folly and the impotence 
 of papal indignation. 
 
 About this time we find the poet Garcao, considered as the 
 Horace of the Portuguese, in the hands of everybody. The 
 purity, the classic elegance of his odes, is not even surpassed 
 by those of Horace, whom he chose as his model. The Can- 
 tata of Dido, the Ode to Virtue, and that on the Suicide, are 
 characterised by a beauty of style, which is at the same time 
 so sublime and so true to nature, that it would be difficult to 
 discover any worthy to be put into competition with them. 
 The poetry of the Portuguese owes its renovation greatly to 
 the influence and example of Garcao, and to the literary 
 society which he established under the name of Arcadia. It 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 545 
 
 is to this society, also, that Portugal is indebted for the powers 
 of Antonio Dinis, who was the author of the Pindaric Odes, in 
 which the lyric style of Pindar was for the first time success- 
 fully employed in the dress of a modern language. Dinis alle- 
 viated the duties of the magistracy, in which he was distin- 
 guished for talent and probity, by composing a great number 
 of pastoral poems, sonnets, and Anacreontic pieces ; but his 
 principal work, and that which has entitled him to take a 
 high rank not only in the Portuguese school of literature, but 
 in that of Europe generally, is his heroi-comic poem entitled 
 " O Hysope," in which he contests the pre-eminence with 
 the authors of the Lutrin, the Dunciad, and the Secchia Rapita. 
 This illustrious society produced likewise the two Gomes ; the 
 one a dramatic poet, who has left us a collection of pieces in 
 twelve volumes, which, if they cannot lay claim to individual 
 perfection, contain at least some comedies of a very original 
 character, and in which the manners and habits of the Portu- 
 guese are admirably pourtrayed ; and in addition to these, 
 some tragedies, the force and spirit of which are excellent. 
 In short, with the exception of a correct style, harmonious 
 metre, and those exterior forms of the drama, which he held 
 in too great contempt, he shines pre-eminently in this walk of 
 literature. But the consequence of this peculiarity in his 
 writings is, that his pieces are seldom brought forward on the 
 stage, and are but little read. Still he may be fairly regarded 
 as having laid the foundation of a good national theatre in Por- 
 tugal, though he was not destined to raise the superstructure. 
 The other Gomes, more the literary character generally than 
 the poet, composed some criticisms on good Portuguese writers^ 
 which are much esteemed. Passing over Quita, who wrote 
 some tragedies of little reputation ; a pastoral poem in the 
 style of the " Pastor Fido," and which certainly is very supe- 
 rior to the Italian dramatic piece ; and some idyls, likewise 
 Port. 2 M 
 
54« PORTUGAL 
 
 possessing all the beauty, simplicity, and grace which charac- 
 terize the compositions of Gesner of the same kind; — we will 
 briefly notice Gonzaga, the Brasilian author of the " Marilia 
 de Dirceu," a little collection of elegiac pieces, which has 
 been recently translated into French and published at Paris. 
 
 We now arrive at the accession of the Queen Maria I. to the 
 throne, and the creation of the Academy of Sciences at Lis- 
 bon ; events which took place towards the end of the eigh- 
 teenth century. The national literature, the arts, and the 
 sciences, received from that establishment, during the space of 
 twenty years, every possible protection and encouragement ; 
 but since that period, owing to the blighting influence of the 
 all-pervading power of the friars, in whose train barbarism 
 and corruption are the invariable attendants, and to whom 
 darkness is more profitable than the light of knowledge, this 
 useful institution has been suffered to decline almost into a 
 state of non-entity. 
 
 The period to which we are referring, was one of the most 
 flourishing in Portugal, in respect of the arts, the belles-lettres, 
 and the sciences, since the memorable reigns of Emmanuel 
 and John III. It was then that Portugal, reaping a rich 
 harvest from the seed sown by Pombal, took part in the 
 general civilization of Europe. The Portuguese law could 
 then boast its Blackstone in the celebrated lawyer P. J. 
 de Mello, professor of this faculty in the university of Coim- 
 bra, whose General Treatise upon the Jurisprudence of 
 Portugal, comprised in six volumes, including one of the 
 history of the Portuguese jurisprudence, is considered as 
 very erudite, and contains principles the most liberal and 
 just, and which are worthy the philosophy of the modern 
 science. Antonio Ribeiro dos Sanctos, a most distinguished 
 lawyer of that day, wrote a treatise upon the penalty of death, 
 which neither Beccaria nor Montesquieu would have dis- 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 547 
 
 owned. He published likewise three volumes of poems, 
 which are considered to be strictly classical and after the 
 manner of Horace, and are much admired by the Portuguese 
 for the elegance and purity of their diction. 
 
 Theodoro d'Almeida, besides a romance, in the style of the 
 Telemachus of ^ Fenelon, which, though certainly it cannot 
 compete in beauty with its model, is nevertheless a work of 
 considerable merit, published also under the title of " Philo- 
 sophical Recreations;" a work of some length upon experi- 
 mental philosophy, and in a familiar style, adapted to every 
 one's comprehension. This work is perhaps one of the most 
 remarkable which has appeared in Portugal. It is much 
 esteemed in Spain, where it has been translated into the lan- 
 guage of the country. Indeed, the Spaniards seem to hold this 
 author in greater estimation than the Portuguese themselves. 
 
 About this period the celebrated physician, Ribeiro Sanches, 
 whose genius and vast acquirements were rewarded with the 
 ingratitude of his countrymen,- — or should we not rather say, 
 with the tyrannical persecution of the Inquisition and of a 
 bigoted government, both vying with each other in oppressing 
 the people, — sought refuge at the court of the Czars, where he 
 was professionally attached to the person of the Empress 
 Catherine. The different works which he published, both in 
 the Portuguese and French languages, upon medicine and 
 nosology, attest the extent of his knowledge and his extraordi- 
 nary talents. He was, in short, a philosopher whom any 
 country of Europe might have been proud to have sent forth 
 to the world. 
 
 Less fortunate than Ribeiro Sanches, but possessing a still 
 higher range of intellect, a still more powerful genius, the 
 unhappy Jos6 Anastacio da Cunha fell a victim to the cruelty 
 of the Inquisition ; for though he escaped the fire and the 
 fagot, the humiliations and the bodily torments to which 
 be was exposed during a long imprisonment, deistroyed his 
 
04S PORTUGAL 
 
 constitution and hastened the period of his death. He left a 
 course of lectures on mathematics, which, we are informed, 
 is considered by competent judges as the most perfect work 
 of the kind which has appeared in any language up to the 
 present day. This treatise has been translated -into French, 
 and may be confidently recommended, as an elementary book, 
 to the perusal of the mathematical student. No less a poet 
 than mathematician, he published some pieces of lyric poetry, 
 remarkable for the spirit of mildness and toleration which 
 breathes in every line. The general style, however, of his 
 poetry is charged with being incorrect, and his notions on 
 certain subjects are said to be a little too much tinctured with 
 unrestrained freedom. He was a great admirer of the English 
 poets, and has more particularly imitated Pope, both in his 
 style and in the choice of his subjects, and has even made his 
 philosophy his model. 
 
 Another physician, Campos, a person of rare genius and 
 considerable erudition, attempted the restoration in Portugal 
 of the olden style of romances and novels, the Portuguese 
 having, for a very long time, been contented with translations 
 of such works from the French, English, and German lan- 
 guages. He endeavoured, likewise, to introduce into romance- 
 writing the principles of the sciences and modern philosophy, 
 in which he by no means succeeded, since the union of fable 
 and truth is impossible, or can at best produce but a very 
 strange assemblage. That romance, however, of his, which is 
 entitled " Viagens de Altina," or the Travels of Altina, is 
 certainly a very extraordinary production, and is neither defi- 
 cient in interest nor in merit. The reader would sometimes 
 imagine himself transported into the allegorical regions de- 
 picted by Gulliver ; at others, that he was mixed up with the 
 comic scenes of Gil Bias ; and then again he would fancy that 
 he was brought into the romantic scenery of the French novel 
 of Alphonso and Dalinda. With all its merit, however, this 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 549 
 
 romance is altogether a strange and fanciful production; the 
 Portuguese, however, do not sufficiently esteem its preten- 
 sions, and they speak of it with no degree of interest. 
 
 Two ecclesiastics may be included in the list of good Por- 
 tuguese authors, but we shall say little about them, because 
 they have published but little ; still, however, if the general 
 opinion of learned Portuguese in their favour is to be admitted 
 as well founded, they were the most extraordinary men of 
 their times. One of them was the monk, Fr. Joseph da Co- 
 ra^ao de Jesus, who translated and published the Metamor- 
 phoses of Ovid, and a volume of lyric poems, both much 
 esteemed by the Portuguese for the elegance and purity of 
 their diction. The literary essays of this writer, and his ser- 
 mons, not more distinguished even for their pure morality than 
 for the sublimity of their eloquence and the taste with which 
 they are composed, are among the best of his works. The 
 manuscripts are still preserved in the, national library at Lisbon ; 
 and it is to be lamented that they should so long have remained 
 concealed there, without being given to the public. It is said 
 that the Fr. Joseph was deeply versed in English literature, 
 and that in his writings he has endeavoured to imitate the 
 style of Blair, of whose peculiar manner he was a great 
 admirer. 
 
 But if we are to compare him with Blair, still more just is 
 it, perhaps, to compare with our own mighty Johnson the 
 Portuguese bishop, D. Alexandre da Sagrada Familia, whose 
 family name, da Silva Garrett, according to a Portuguese cus- 
 tom, was thus changed from a religious motive. He was the 
 uncle of the Chevalier de Almeida Garrett, whom we are 
 proud to reckon among the number of our literary friends. 
 This amiable and learned prelate, after having discharged his 
 episcopal functions at Angola, a Portuguese colony and town 
 in Africa, died bishop of the Azores. He was an ecclesiastic 
 of a truly apostolical character, and passed through a stormy 
 
550 PORTUGAL 
 
 life exposed to persecutions of every kind. He had the courage, 
 and it is an honour to his name, to dispute the authority of the 
 Pope ; he combated likewise the pretensionsof thePope'snuncio 
 at the Portuguese court established in Rio Janeiro, with respect 
 to the confirmation of bishops ; asserted, likewise, the ancient 
 discipline and the authority of the metropolitan bishops ; and, 
 in fact, showed himself altogether worthy the character and the 
 independence of a Christian bishop. Did the Portuguese church 
 possess bishops at this day of such elevated character, she 
 would speedily release herself from the barbarizing thraldom 
 of the papal court, and be no longer the slave of her spiritual 
 and temporal despotism. D. Alexandre was the author of 
 many literary essays, of some translations, of some works 
 likewise upon the ecclesiastical law, a very remarkable essay 
 also on the celibacy of the priesthood, and a collection of 
 sermons which may be justly put into comparison with those 
 of Vieyra. They are very much in the style of those pub- 
 lished as Dr. Johnson's by Samuel Hayes, an usher at West- 
 minster, who won for many years the Seatonian prize. John- 
 son wrote them, we may observe, for his friend, Mr. Taylor. 
 He was likewise the author of a dictionary of the Portuguese 
 language, which is considered to be a perfect work of its kind, 
 and to be extremely rich in words. Indefatigable in his 
 labours for the public advantage, he continued his laborious 
 pursuits as author to the age of ninety : but, alas ! all his 
 various productions remain concealed in the hands of indivi- 
 duals ; the Censure, that abominable and inveterate enemy of 
 literature, not allowing these treasures to see the light of day. 
 These interesting particulars connected with the life and 
 writings of this eminent and learned prelate, this distinguished 
 ornament of the Portuguese church, were communicated to us 
 by one of his nearest relatives, and we have judged them wor- 
 thy of a place in this review of the literary history of Portugal. 
 The Father Caldas, an ecclesiastic likewise, is a poet of the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 551 
 
 end of the last century. His religious notions were pure and 
 enlightened ; he entertained and openly professed the most 
 liberal ideas, and always uttered his sentiments with a frank- 
 ness and a freedom of expression that people are accustomed 
 to hear only in countries enjoying the blessings of a constitu- 
 tional government. Thus his poems, estimable as they are, 
 were obliged to be printed at Paris. His models and favourite 
 poets were the Bible, our Milton, and the German Klopstock ; 
 and we would venture to affirm, upon the most credible autho- 
 rity, that, after Milton and Klopstock, no poet has taken up 
 the harp of David with so masterly a hand as Caldas in his 
 imitations of the psalmist. 
 
 Domingos Maximiano Torres has likewise imitated the sub- 
 lime style of the holy writings ; but the most esteemed pro- 
 ductions of this writer are his Canzonets, which are written in 
 the manner of Metastasio. The beauty, the finish, the soft- 
 ness, the elegance, with which they are written, give them a 
 very high rank in the scale of Portuguese literature. They 
 are the beautiful melodies of a Moore, or of a Haynes Bayly, 
 but clothed in a language still more sonorous and smooth. 
 
 In many respects, Nicolau Tolentino may be considered as 
 the Boileau and the Pope of the Portuguese. His satires, his 
 epigrams, and poems, quite social trifles, are nevertheless very 
 pretty, and written with good taste. He is much esteemed 
 by his countrymen ; and our friend the Chevalier de Almeida 
 Garrett, in his work, which we have already noticed at the 
 commencement of this sketch, has given iis a captivating 
 description of his writings, and has enabled us to comprehend 
 their merits most fully. 
 
 The eighteenth century closes th6 literary history of Portu- 
 gal with two very remarkable names, — ^two poets the most 
 celebrated in the modern literature of Portugal, — Bocage and 
 Francisco Manoel. Though the death of the last-mentioned 
 took place so recently as in 1818, and that of the first occurred 
 
552 PORTUGAL 
 
 in 1 805, both of them seem to belong to the last age ; and 
 therefore we shall commence our review of the state of litera- 
 ture in Portugal early in this century, with their names, as 
 cotemporaneous authors. 
 
 Socage was a celebrated and extraordinary improvisatore ; 
 he charmed and astonished his countrymen by the soft ca- 
 dence, the beauty, and the richness of his rhymes, and the 
 facility with which he produced his verses. He wasted, how- 
 ever, his extraordinary talents in writing sonnets and fugitive 
 pieces ; and although he attempted the dramatic style, and 
 adventured upon works of still higher grade in the scale of 
 literature, he never finished one of his literary attempts. His 
 translations, however, of Delille, of Ovid, and of some other 
 poetical writers, are highly esteemed, and his prose version of 
 Gil Bias is likewise much praised by the Portuguese. Still, 
 it must be observed that the style of his poetry is deficient in 
 the true colouring of nature ; all his beauties are of an artificial 
 kind ; he is not, in short, the faithful copyist of nature, but 
 the imitator of other painters. He has outraged nature, and 
 all the natural passions ; and thus, though the astonishment of 
 his reader may at first be such as to concede him a portion 
 of applause, he will soon forget him when that impression has 
 worn off". Notwithstanding, however, all these defects in the 
 style of his compositions, his reputation has been sufficiently 
 great among the Portuguese to balance that of the celebrated 
 lyrist, Francisco Manoel, who fortunately escaped the bloody 
 fangs of the Lisbon Inquisition, and lived at Paris to the age 
 of more than ninety years, the constant suitor of the Muses. 
 A complete collection of his works was published at Paris, in 
 twelve octavo volumes, during the latter years of his life. 
 There is scarcely a species of poetry which he has not at- 
 tempted ; but it is his success in lyric poetry which has 
 immortalized his name. In the style of the " moUe atque 
 facetura," he imitates and almost surpasses Horace. In the 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 553 
 
 heroic and sublime he follows no master, buf is perfectly 
 original ; he forms a new creation of his own ; the thoughts, 
 the beauties of his style, are here all perfectly new, and are 
 borrowed from no other language. They are the genuine 
 inspirations of the original spirit of Portuguese poesy. 
 
 We must again refer you to that valuable work by our 
 friend the Chevalier de Almeida Garrett, the " Parnaso Lu- 
 sitano," in order that you may be able to supply the several 
 defects and deficiencies which, from our very limited space, 
 will be found to characterize our own feeble attempt at con- 
 veying to you a general idea of the literature of Portugal. 
 There you will find a brief, but most complete analysis of the 
 works of the author whom we were last noticing. The repu- 
 tation of Francisco Manoel, though cotemporaneous, would, 
 according to the Chevalier, not be inferior even to that of 
 Byron, and that of other modern poets, had it been his good 
 fortune to compose in a language more generally known in 
 Europe. Francisco was the intimate friend of the celebrated 
 modern French poet, De la Martine, and one of the " Poetical 
 Meditations" of this youthful bard is addressed to the Portu- 
 guese poet. 
 
 At length we have arrived, in our review of the literary 
 history of Portugal, at the commencement of the nineteenth 
 century, in which we are living, and in which we have become 
 the witnesses of the most extraordinary advances made by the 
 whole human race in civilization, and of the rapid progress of 
 the human mind towards perfectibility. 
 
 Although compelled by a bigoted government, at once 
 oppressive, cruel, and demoralized, the Portuguese sees him- 
 self thrown out of the rank of civilized nations, and standing 
 behind them all in the progress to improvement, he still 
 struggles against the difficulties and the obstacles which the 
 government has thrown in the way of his moral and intellec- 
 tual happiness. The enterprizing genius and the literary 
 
564 PORTUGAL 
 
 character of the Portuguese nation still force their way through 
 the clouds which overhang it. A great number of volumes of 
 memoirs and philosophical transactions, published by the 
 Royal Academy of Lisbon, prove that the intellectual powers 
 of the kingdom are not yet quite extinguished, and that the 
 taste for useful research still survives. The investigations of 
 the national archaeology, an infinity of essays upon all sorts 
 of literary subjects, very learned memoirs and philosophical 
 treatises upon different questions of law, the most delicate and 
 abstruse questions in the mathematics, botanical and zoologi- 
 cal works, are a sufficient testimony that the Academy of 
 Lisbon is neither deficient in industry, knowledge, or talents, 
 well and usefully directed. 
 
 Senhor Francisco de Borja Gari^ao, now known as the 
 Baron Praya, has written a history of the mathematics in 
 Portugal, a work held in general estimation by his country- 
 men. He still lives to enjoy his fame, although oppressed by 
 age and numerous infirmities. 
 
 Senhor Brotero, who has attained nearly the age of a 
 hundred years, is considered a first-rate botanist, and his 
 name will be found included in the list of almost every 
 academy in Europe. His two productions, the " Flora Lu- 
 sitana," and an elementary work on botany, are highly 
 esteemed. He is the author, also, of many learned treatises 
 on the same subject, and indeed it is his glory to have made 
 several discoveries of great importance in that beautiful and 
 popular science. This respectable literary Nestor subsists on 
 a very moderate pension, and badly paid, to which he has 
 been nominated by the government, as the director of the 
 zoological garden and of the botanical garden of the king at 
 Belem. Besides those works which we have noticed, he has 
 written many others under an engagement given him specially 
 by the government. In addition to his extensive knowledge 
 and superior talents, Senhor Brotero has the merit of having 
 
ILLUSTRATED.. 556 
 
 employed a purity of diction in his writings, and a beauty of 
 style, not often to be met with in the productions of the pro- 
 fessors of natural sciences, who, for the most part, despise 
 those exterior advantages. 
 
 The most distinguished author, however, known at present 
 in Portugal, is without doubt the celebrated Ahh6 Correa da 
 Serra, distinguished not less for his profound knowledge as a 
 botanist, and his general literary acquirements, than for the 
 zeal of his patriotism. Like all the other great men of his 
 country who have desired the national renovation, he has been 
 persecuted with the most, inveterate cruelty. The various 
 works published by the Royal Society of Lisbon are filled 
 with the result of his labours. Taking refuge in France, he 
 soon became a writer in the celebrated review entitled " The 
 Literary Archives of Europe." The Institute of France, of 
 whose distinguishing justice and eminent liberality of feeling 
 our own celebrated chymist, Mr. Farrady, can speak, re- 
 ceived the Abb6 as a brother, and instantly enrolled him a 
 member of their illustrious Academy. Many of his works, 
 written during his sojourn in Paris, were published in the 
 French language. Desirous of extending the sphere of his 
 knowledge, the Abb6 visited America, and passed several 
 years of his life in the United States. He has published a 
 work on botany in the English language, with which he was 
 quite familiar. After having made his name long known to 
 the literati of Europe, the government of Portugal began to 
 blush for its ingratitude and neglect of so illustrious a man ; 
 and accordingly, a decree of Don John VL, who was then 
 with his court at Rio Janeiro, appointed him the Portuguese 
 charge d'affaires at Washington, where he continued to reside 
 for some years. The revolution which occurred in Portugal 
 in the year 1820, was the means of recalling the illustrious 
 and learned patriot to his own country. The city of Lisbon 
 was forward to recognize his talents and his virtues, and chose 
 
556 PORTUGAL 
 
 him for her representative in the newly-constituted Cortes; 
 and although nearly borne down with age and infirmities, he 
 performed the duties of deputy with distinction and honour. 
 He was not destined long to survive the ephemeral liberty of 
 his country, for he died at Caldas da Rainha in the year 
 1823. Like those of the immortal Camoens, the perishable 
 remains of the Abb^ Correa da Serra were deposited in the 
 public burial-ground, without any funereal honours ; and ^s 
 the illustrious author of the Lusiad found but one friend in his 
 extremity, whose name deserves to live with that of his mas- 
 ter, the faithful Malay, >Antonio, just so our unfortunate Abb6 
 was destitute of friends in his last moments ; nor had he one 
 other mourner to accompany his remains to the tomb, save the 
 humble sacristan of his parish church, whose affection and 
 admiration had 'been won by the greatness of his talents. A 
 cross, rudely formed of wood, with the simple inscription on 
 it, " Correa da Serra," (verbum nil amplius,) is the only monu- 
 ment which attests to the world the glory of him who bore 
 that name. It was the last effort of the poor sacristan to 
 rescue that name from oblivion ; and simple and affecting as 
 it is, it will speak to all posterity, and wherever Correa da 
 Serra is revered, there will this genuine tribute of homage to 
 a being of superior order be mentioned with applause. 
 
 Doctor Constancio, who was the principal editor of a Por- 
 tuguese review published at Paris, under the title of " Annaes 
 das Sciencias e das Artes," is still much valued as a distin- 
 guished writer and learned naturalist. The degree of doctor 
 was conferred upon him by the university of Edinburgh, where 
 he published a periodical pap^r entitled " The Ghost." In 
 addition to his publications in the Portuguese language, he 
 committed to the Paris press translations in French of our 
 most celebrated English political economists, which are much 
 esteemed in France. The French and English languages are 
 as familiar to Dr. Constancio as the Portuguese. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 557 
 
 Chemistry has likewise been a favourite study in Portugal. 
 Besides the public establishments and professorships of this 
 science in Coimbra, public lectures on the subject are annually 
 given to large classes in Lisbon. In the published lectures of the 
 young professor, Mr. Mouzinho d'Alboquerque, and in the 
 other works which he has given to the world, sufficient proof is 
 afforded of the advances made by the Portuguese in the mys- 
 teries of this science, which has produced such revolutions and 
 changes in the world. His lectures are attended by many of 
 the young nobility, and, in fact, by most of the respectable 
 youth in Lisbon, and even by many ladies, among whom is 
 frequently seen the aged Marchioness Alorna, better known, 
 perhaps, as the Countess Oyenhausen. This distinguished 
 female, the head of one of the most illustrious families in 
 Europe, has during a long life cultivated the sciences and the 
 belles-lettres, with a talent, an ardour, and a taste, which have 
 procured for her honourable reception at the different courts 
 which she has visited on the continent. She has published a 
 translation of the Ars Poetica of Horace, as likewise of Pope's 
 essay on criticism, both of which are much esteemed in Por- 
 tugal. She was the intimate friend of Madame de Stael, and 
 of the German philosopher Kant, and was highly valued by 
 both. Though arrived at the age of ninety, and borne down 
 by numerous infirmities, she still retains all the charm and 
 the powers of her mind ; her conversation is at once brilliant, 
 instructive, and agreeable ; she is able to converse in almost 
 all the languages of civilized Europe ; and she displays her 
 varied acquirements with exquisite taste and tact, and without 
 a trace of blue-stocking pedantry. 
 
 Mr. Silvestre Pinheiro, a Portuguese diplomatist of consi- 
 derable reputation, is the author of an essay on Psychology, 
 which has been lately published at Paris, and has been well 
 received by the French literati. This work had already ap- 
 peared in the Portuguese language, and in a somewhat differ- 
 ent form from the French edition. Honourable mention should 
 
558 PORTUGAL 
 
 here likewise be made of Mr. Moira, LL.D,, who has tra- 
 velled much in this country, and has devoted the greater 
 portion of his time in England to the study of our judiciary 
 system, and the pleadings in our courts of law. He has lately 
 published at Lisbon a very interesting work on the state of 
 the law, the magistracy and legal decisions in England, which 
 is written with great impartiality, and promises to become 
 very popular in Portugal. An anonymous publication, en- 
 titled "Cartas de Americus," is also attributed to his pen, in 
 which he treats of the polity and constitution of Great Britain. 
 Among the modern literati of Portugal, it is but just that 
 we should place in the first rank the learned and amiable 
 bishop of Coimbra, Francisco de St. Luis. He took the de- 
 gree of doctor in his university at an early period of life, and 
 then became professor. Subsequently, he was advanced to 
 episcopal rank, and in process of time became rector of the 
 university. A zealous, but yet a temperate patriot, he took a 
 decided part in the events of 1820, When the re-action took 
 place in 1 823, he became the immediate object of persecution, 
 and at length was immured in the cell of a convent, in which 
 he was confined a close prisoner until the year 1826, when 
 the nation called him to perform the duties of deputy, and the 
 regency appointed him president of the lower chamber, where 
 the integrity of his principles and the firmness of his character 
 excited the public admiration. Those who are personally ac- 
 quainted with the learned bishop describe him as possessing 
 an imposing figure, attractive powers of conversation, a mild- 
 ness of temper, and an affability of manner, which enchant all 
 who approach him. No literary character in Portugal at 
 present is so much respected as himself, and his name is 
 never mentioned in the literary circles of Lisbon but with 
 reverence and affection ; in fact, he is the idol of the Portu- 
 guese nation. He is the author of a dictionary of synonyms 
 in the Portuguese language ; of an essay on the antiquities of 
 the celebrated abbey of Batalha, as well as of several literary 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 559 
 
 dissertations, which are in considerable repute. His style of 
 writing is said to be quite an example of purity and correct- 
 ness ; at least, as far as a stranger may offer an opinion, his 
 diction appears to possess a peculiar charm. It was natural 
 to expect that the learning and the virtues of this excellent 
 prelate would entitle him to the honour of proscription at the 
 hands of D. Miguel; and, in truth, he has been dragged from 
 his peaceable residence and the scene of his useful labours in 
 Lisbon, and conducted by an armed band into banishment, 
 like a criminal, and placed amid horrid fastnesses in the 
 mountains of the Serra d'Ossa, in the Alemtejo. 
 
 Among the living poets of Portugal may be remarked Cas- 
 tilho, who, though blind from his cradle, has nevertheless in- 
 cessantly applied himself to the belles-lettres and the cultiva- 
 tion of the Muses. His " Heroides," in the style of Ovid, is 
 one among the most remarkable of his works. He displays 
 considerable talent in some other pieces of poetry, which, 
 however, are not generally regarded as good ; in fact he is very 
 deficient in originality, and his mode of colouring is not after 
 the truth of nature ; his lines, though they are happily turned, 
 perhaps, are monotonous, and it is only to the harmony of his 
 verses that he is indebted for his poetical fame. 
 
 Among the modern writers of Portugal, we must not forget 
 to mention Padre Jose Augostinho de Macedo; but at the 
 same time we shall avoid all allusion to his religious and poli- 
 tical fanaticism. He has presumed to decry the merits of 
 Camoens, and to deny the beauties of the Lusiad ; and has 
 even gone so far, as to venture to publish a rival epic poem on 
 the discovery of India, which he at first entitled " Gama," 
 and subsequently " Oriente." This poem has been repre- 
 sented to us as not possessing any merit, and in fact to haVe 
 been treated with ali^nost universal neglect. He is the author 
 of another poem, entitled "A Meditagao," to which, in point 
 of ability, another character is assigned. 
 
360 PORTUGAL 
 
 In the essay of the Chevalier de Almeida Garrett, which 
 we have frequently quoted in this historical review of the 
 literature of Portugal, we find a notice given of a little poem, 
 entitled " O Passeio," or the promenade, written in the style 
 of our Thomson's Seasons, and somewhat in the manner of 
 Delille. The author of this production is a Mr. Da Costa e Silva, 
 who lives in profound retirement, and, as a true philosopher loves 
 to do, avoids the toil and the turmoil of the world. The poem 
 of which we are speaking is remarkable for great defects, as well 
 as for great beauties ; for splendid displays of the imaginative 
 powers of the author's mind, and for novelties of conception. 
 
 It now only remains for us, in conclusion, to give a brief 
 notice of the works published by the Chevalier de Almeida 
 Garrett, to whose essay on the literary history of Portugal, 
 prefixed to the collection of specimens of Portuguese poetry, 
 printed at Paris in five volumes, we have already alluded. 
 
 His didactic poem, entitled " O Retrato de Venus," (the 
 portrait of Venus,) preceded by a discussion on the art, more 
 particularly as practised in Portugal, gained him considerable 
 distinction whilst a student in the University of Coimbra. It 
 was published at the commencement of the revolution in 1820, 
 when a representative government, as we have seen, was esta- 
 blished in Portugal, and which continued in force down to the 
 year 1 823, when the sovereign resumed possession of despotic, 
 authority. The unmeasured freedom with which the young 
 academic had animadverted in his work on the character of 
 the Pope and the court of Rome, excited against him the 
 hatred and vengeance of the apostolical party ; and accord- 
 ingly, he was cited before a tribunal, purposely established to 
 punish offences of the press, to make answer to the contra- 
 dictory charges of Deism and Atheism. The consequence of 
 this priestly persecution was, as might well be imagined, the 
 giving a greater degree of publicity and popularity to the 
 "Retrato de Venus." With respect to the poem itself, it 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 561 
 
 contains without doubt some original conceptions, sonie beau- 
 tiful imagery, with nervous diction and striking represen- 
 tations ; but still, taken as a whole, it has little claim to the 
 consideration of a perfect poem, and through all the author's 
 display of reading and general erudition the faults of an inex- 
 perienced writer are discoverable. 
 
 Upon his removal from the university, Mr. Garrett was en- 
 trusted with a responsible situation in the home office, and 
 during the intervals of leisure allowed from his important 
 duties, he composed his tragedy of " Cato." In the preface he 
 admits that Addison furnished him with many of his happier 
 ideas ; but still his plan is totally different from that of our 
 tragedian ; and, like Alfieri in his beautiful tragedies, he em- 
 ploys in the composition of his drama neither female person- 
 ages nor love-tales. The human passions which he makes 
 subservient to his design, are those of the more exalted cha- 
 racter of paternal love, patriotism, ambition, and a thirst for 
 glory. If the author may be said to have followed in this, 
 piece the classic rules of the Greek drama, it is equally evident 
 that he has imitated the style of Alfieri. Among the native 
 Portuguese the versification of the poem is much praised, and 
 of course they must be the best judges of the harmony and 
 euphony of which their language is capable. Perhaps the 
 happiest idea of our poet is the contrast which he draws 
 between the two characters of Cato and Brutus, both of which 
 are well sustained. The last act is feeble, and is characterised 
 by other considerable faults ; sometimes he falls into useless 
 declamation ; and then he introduces a character perfectly 
 uncalled for, the son of Cato, Portius, who does nothing more 
 than utter some very common^place expressions about mo- 
 rality. Still, however, this tragedy has been favourably re- 
 ceived in Portugal. 
 
 Driven from his country by the unrelenting persecution of 
 the Absolutist faction in 1823, he took refuge at Paris, where 
 . Port. 2 N 
 
562 PORTUGAL 
 
 he published his poem, entitled " O Camoes," (Camoens,) the 
 subject and hero of which is the immortal author of the Lusiad, 
 the unfortunate bard of Lusitania. There is a novelty in the 
 plan of this poem. Forgetting his old Greek and Roman 
 masters, the author, without becoming the copyist, for he is 
 perfectly Portuguese throughout, catches the manner of 
 Shakspeare, and sometimes reminds us of the flexibility of 
 Scott ; at others, of the force of Byron. The adventurous life 
 of Camoens, his voyages, his attachments, his misfortunes, 
 and his immortal poem, have furnished some splendid pictures ; 
 the narrative is romantic, simple, and interesting ; and the 
 poetical ornaments are numerous and happily chosen. Ad- 
 mired as this poem is by the Portuguese, we might venture to 
 promise it success if introduced to us in an English dress. 
 
 The Chevalier's next publication was a poetical romance, 
 entitled " D. Branca, ou Conquista de Algarve," (D. Branca, 
 or the Conquest of Algarve,) a poem perfectly singular in its 
 kind, and perhaps without example in any jnodem language. 
 Though resembling in some slight degree the Orlando Furioso 
 of Ariosto, and in a little also the Oberon of Wieland, it 
 possesses no decided character in common with either. It is 
 a curious combination of the serious, the sentimental, the 
 burlesque, the philosophical, and the marvellous ; and is 
 aided by the introduction of fairies and enchantments, princes 
 and monks. Without the license and impiety of the Don 
 Juan of Byron, it is still equally extravagant ; but Don Juan, 
 we should remark, is a picture of modern manners, while the 
 D. Branca of Mr. Garrett is a representation of the ancient 
 state of society. Its period of time is that of the Portuguese 
 wars with the Moors who had established themselves in Spain. 
 Since the Portuguese are divided in opinion about the merits 
 of this poem, it would be hazardous for a foreigner to pass any 
 positive judgment on its pretensions ; but in one point we 
 must be allowed to give our author unlimited praise, and that 
 is for his bold reprehension of papal and monastic enormities. 
 
ILLUSTRATED. 563 
 
 Restored to his country in 1826, by the establishment of 
 the constitutional charter, the author of " Camoes " and of " D. 
 Branca" abandoned the Muses for the career of politics; and 
 for the defence and consolidation of the charter, established 
 the two public journals at Lisbon entitled " O Portuguez'' 
 and the " Chronista," both of which were written with great 
 moderation of spirit, and in a style simple, polished, and firm. 
 They both met with a success unprecedented in the annals of 
 public journals. The apostolical faction, aware of the vi^femt 
 and powerful enemy with "whom they had to deal, — an enemy 
 of their hateful principles, whom no force could intimidate, no 
 proffered advantages corrupt, — procured the suppression of 
 these two gazettes, and effected the imprisonment of their 
 editor ; the first step taken by monkish treason to prepare the 
 way for future commotions ! Latterly a refugee in London, the 
 Chevalier de Almeida Garrett has published a little poem» 
 entitled " Adozinda," preceded by an essay on the ancient 
 national and romantic poetry of Portugal. It is singularly 
 interesting for an inhabitant of northern Europe to compare 
 with those of his own region the traditions, the superstitions, 
 the popular persuasions, and creeds, of the nations of the 
 south ; and hence the value of this archaeological treatise. It 
 is, perhaps, the first work of the kind published in this country 
 in one of the languages of the south of Europe. 
 
 The writer in the Quarterly Review, from whom we have 
 quoted at the commencement of this essay, has remarked that 
 the popular ballads of the Portuguese have perished. What a 
 debt, therefore, shall we owe to Mr. Almeida Garrett, if by 
 his assiduity they can be recovered ! Perhaps he is also 
 destined to effect a revolution in the poetry of Portugal, which 
 stands as much in need of it as its actual constitution. It is 
 true that the Portuguese have produced the best romance of 
 chivalry in Vasco de Lobeira's " Amadis de Gaul ;" the best 
 chronicler in Fernam Lopez ; one of the best historians in Bar- 
 
564 
 
 PORTUGAL ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 ros, and one of the most eloquent writers in Vieyra ; but they 
 are behind all other nations in poetry : there have been, as we 
 have seen, poets in abundance among them ; but from the 
 national taste and other causes, the Portuguese productions 
 in this are inferior to those in the other departments of lite- 
 rature. 
 
 Such, then, generally and briefly is the actual state of the 
 literature of Portugal. Its condition, most assuredly, cannot 
 be said to be flourishing ; but still it gives evidence of inherent 
 force and life. In the same way with every thing else con- 
 nected with that unhappy country, it is borne down and over- 
 whelmed at present by the grievous weight, the iron-handed 
 tyranny of monachism and priestly despotism. Still the con- 
 templation of its past glories must be cheering to those who 
 take an interest in the destinies of the land that produced a 
 Henry, a Gama, and a Camoens ; and to them may light up 
 the hopes of another era of glory for the nation, — of brighter 
 fortunes, deserved by the Portuguese people, and which we 
 predict they will sooner or later obtain. 
 
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