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CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY 
 
 3 1924 072 060 779 
 
HAND BOOK 
 
 OF 
 
 NEW BRUNSWICK 
 
 (CANADA). 
 
 ISSUED BY THE AUTHORITY OF THE 
 
 CROWN LAND DEPARTMENT, 
 
 Hon. A. T. Dunn, Surveyor General. 
 
 PREPARED BY 
 
 M7- ALBERT S^ICKUXTjOs-TST. 
 
 IQOO. 
 
 FREDERICTON, NEW BRUNSWICK, 
 DOMINION OF CANADA. 
 
■H- V 31 £ - 3 <s> 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 The Province of New Brunswick 
 
 Dairying- in New Brunswick 
 
 Agriculture in New Brunswick 
 
 New Brunswick as a Game Country. 
 
 The City of St. John, N. B. 
 
 The Kennebecasis Valley . . 
 
 The Provincial Dairy School 
 
 The St. John River Valley and the Valleys of 
 
 Queens County 
 
 Sunbury County 
 
 York County 
 
 Carleton County 
 
 Apple Raising - in Carleton County 
 
 Victoria County 
 
 Casual Description of the Restig-ouche Rivt 
 
 of the Wagan River to Campbellton 
 The Eastern Slope, including- the Counties i 
 
 thumberland and Kent 
 Northumberland County 
 Kent < ounty 
 
 Westmorland and Albert Counties . . 
 Distribution of Population . 
 Moncton 
 Albert County 
 Description of Tantramar and other Ma 
 
 of the Bay of Fundy. . 
 Charlotte County 
 Government (The Dominion) 
 Education 
 
 Means of Communication . . 
 Minerals . . 
 The Forest 
 The Fisheries 
 The Judiciary of New Brunswick 
 
 its Tributaries 
 
 from the mout 
 Gloucester, Nor 
 
 hes in the regio 
 
 Page 
 
 7 
 
 •3 
 
 IS 
 
 34 
 4' 
 47 
 58 
 6S 
 
 73 
 86 
 
 87 
 
 9^ 
 96 
 
 too 
 
 107 
 
 ,67 
 J 78 
 
 192 
 
 •94 
 
 201 
 203 
 
 20 5 
 
 209 
 214 
 2I 5 
 223 
 
 22S 
 
 23 1 
 236 
 242 
 244 
 
Saint John Coat of Arms. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 To undertake a description of the Province, which 
 should be authorative and give the various economic par- 
 ticulars as they should be given, would involve a consider- 
 able amount of labour and time. This, in the present work, 
 I have been unable to give. When, at the request of the 
 Provincial Government, I undertook to write a description 
 of the Province, I was busily engaged in preparing to lecture 
 in Great Britain on the resources of the country, and my time 
 was most limited. I was therefore only able to devote a 
 portion of my time during some three weeks to dictating the 
 the following description, and from the method of preparing 
 it, it must necessarily be inferred that the work is far from as 
 full as I should care to make it. The facts are, however, 1 
 believe, correct in as far as the)' go, and have been adduced, 
 for the most part, from personal observation — anything that 
 has been quoted having been credited to its proper source at 
 the time. The works which I have referred to in the course 
 of the preparation are: "A Hand-book of Information for 
 Immigrants to New Brunswick," by M. H. Perley, Esq., 
 London, 1857. "Province of New Brunswick, its Resources, 
 Advantages and Progress," by Charles H. Lugrin, published 
 by authority of the Legislature, 1886. "A report on the 
 Agricultural Capabilities of the Province," by J. F. W. 
 Johnson, F. R. S., etc., Fredericton, 1850. "The Mineral 
 Resources of the Province ot New Brunswick," by L. W. 
 Bailey, Ph. D., LL. D., F. R. S. C, Ottawa, 1899. "Gun 
 and Rod in New Brunswick," by W. K. Reynolds, and D. 
 G. Smith, Fishery Commissioner for New Brunswick; and 
 "St. John, New Brunswick, as a Canadian Winter Port," 
 by a Committee of the Board of Trade, St. John, 189S. 
 
 W. Albert Hickman. 
 
THE PROVINCE 
 
 OF 
 
 NEW BRUNSWICK. 
 
 The Province of New Brunswick, the largest of the 
 
 Maritime Provinces of Canada, has an area of approximately 
 
 28,200 square miles — something over 17,000.000 acres. The 
 
 Maritime Provinces of Canada occupy a position which is a 
 
 peculiarly favored one, with regard to its relation to the 
 
 Empire and its interests as a whole. They are situated 
 
 nearer to the mother country than any very considerable 
 
 food-producing area in the Empire. They constitute the 
 
 eastern-most portion of the most important of the British 
 
 colonies. Through them lie the natural path of the vast, 
 
 absolutely incalculable stores of wealth of the Dominion of 
 
 Canada to the United Kingdom. If these Maritime Provinces 
 
 were incapable of producing any ot the things required in the 
 
 mother country, they would necessarily derive their greatest 
 
 importance from the fact that the) - lay in the path of the 
 
 produce of Canada further west. This, however, is far from 
 
 being the case. Though the fact is yet to a great extent 
 
 unappi eciated abroad, it remains as a fact that no equal 
 
 section of country in the world has more resources and more 
 
 advantages from every point of view than do these same 
 
 Maritime Provinces; and in the greatest measure is this true 
 
 of New Brunswick, the largest and most resourceful of them 
 
 all. New Brunswick, half as large again in area as Nova 
 
 Scotia, is roughly quadrilateral in form, and is bounded as 
 
follows: — On the west and southwest by Maine, one of the 
 United States of America; on the north by the Province of 
 Quebec and the Baie de Chaleur, a portion of the Gulf of St. 
 Lawrence; on the east by an open portion of the same Gulf 
 and further south Northumberland Straits, and on the south 
 by the Province of Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy. 
 Situated as New Brunswick is with relation to the British 
 Empire, she occupies a position with regard to the home 
 land, of which the importance can only be estimated by the full 
 knowledge of the resources and peculiarities of this magnifi- 
 cent province. No country in the world is more blessed with 
 natural advantages than is this. To go still further, I have 
 yet to learn, as far as I am personally concerned, of a section 
 that possesses from every point of view advantages which 
 equal those of this province. On the north, east and south 
 lie magnificent harbors. On the east and north rolls the 
 Gulf of St. Lawrence, teeming with fish and not subject to 
 sudden storms. The southern shore is washed by that 
 wonderful body of water, the Bay of Fundy, the physio- 
 graphical peculiarities of which are sufficient to give the 
 country an interest which it could obtain in no other way. 
 It is a country of complicated and elaborate internal water- 
 ways which penetrate to ever)- portion of the province and 
 present all the advantages that pure water always give a 
 country, both for economic and more sentimental reasons; 
 blessed with a soil more fertile than the greater portion of 
 the lands surrounding, the water-ways tend enormously to 
 enhance the value of this feature by laying down thousands of 
 acres of alluvial interval land along their courses. The 
 climate is magnificent. The summers for the most part clear 
 and cool and the winters cold, bracing and, especially in the 
 interior, free from sudden changes. The climate is especially 
 favorable for the production in their best form of the most 
 valuable crops of the temperate zone. Di.ring the summer, 
 especially in the growing season there are 1 frequent showers 
 occurring often at night, the time between them being for 
 the most part during the day one of almost uninterrupted 
 sunshine. The comparatively severe frosts in the winter are 
 
far from being as might be supposed by a resident of a more- 
 southern or a warmer climate, unmitigated evils. On the 
 contrary these frosts have a most valuable effect in connection 
 with agriculture, saving the farmer an incalculable amount 
 of work in the tillage of the soil. The upper layers of the 
 soil are so thoroughly loosened by the action of the frost, 
 especially as it is leaving the ground in the spring, that 
 ploughing becomes an operation so much easier than it 
 would under other circumstances, as not to entail more than 
 half the labor. Many an essay has been written on this 
 subject alone, and I could occupy much time and space in 
 giving some more definite idea of the value of this feature. 
 Of course, on the other hand, there is the danger that the 
 frosts will injure the roots of fruit trees and do other damage 
 that may mean very considerable loss. This is very rarely 
 even a consideration in New Brunswick, the reason being 
 that before the frosts have penetrated sufficiently deep to have 
 done any injury, the ground becomes covered with a heavy 
 coating of snow which prevents any furthur freezing below. 
 And here again another advantage accrues; a considerable 
 amount of the elements which the soil obtains usually 
 through the agency of the rain from the air are stored up in 
 the layer of the snow that sometimes lays three feet in depth 
 over the surface cf the ground in this province, and these 
 elements are added to the soil suddenly as the snow melts 
 during the months of March and April, and are in a' condition, 
 to do their best work for the crop by the time that the frost 
 is thoroughly out of the ground and the seed sown. To give 
 a fair idea of the amount of sunshine in the province — and 
 there is no more important element that goes to make life 
 happier and healthier — I shall give herewith in tabular form 
 the report furnished to the Department of Agriculture of the 
 province by Thomas Harrison, L. L. B., the Chancellor of the 
 University of New Brunswick, showing the hours of bright 
 sunshine in Fredericton for each month of the year 1898, as 
 compared with the average amount of sunshine for each 
 month of the year for the last seventeen years, these facts 
 being the most interesting as giving a better idea of what 
 we are to expect: — 
 
10 
 
 Months of the Year. 
 
 Hours of Bright 
 Sunshine in Fred- 
 
 ericton, 1898. 
 
 January, . . , 
 February, . . 
 March, .'. . . 
 
 April, 
 
 May, 
 
 June, 
 
 J"ly 
 
 August*. . . . 
 September,. 
 October, . . . 
 November, . 
 December, . 
 
 98 
 90 
 199 
 
 168 
 
 201 
 I98 
 249 
 
 '74 
 
 1 78 
 
 141 
 
 58 
 
 75 
 
 Hours of Possible 
 
 Sunshine in Freder- 
 
 icton, 1898. 
 
 2 79-33- 6 ° 
 287.29-60 
 365. 18-60 
 400.42-60 
 456.05-60 
 462. 12-60 
 466.41-60 
 42 8. 50-60 
 370.03-60 
 
 334-39- 6 ° 
 28 1.20-60 
 267.1S-60 
 
 Average Hours oi 
 Brig-ht Sunshine 
 deduced fiom 
 the last 17 years. 
 
 113 
 
 128 
 
 'S3 
 
 1S9 
 206 
 219 
 23S 
 21 7 
 1S2 
 
 146 
 94 
 9 S 
 
 From this Table it can be readily seen that New Bruns- 
 wick is, indeed, a country of sunshine. No better conception 
 of this can be obtained than comparing a Table of this sort 
 with one of the same type prepared for, for instance, Great 
 Britain. It will be seen that New Brunswick has nearly 
 twice as many hours sunshine in the year as has the mother 
 country. I also include below a tabular view showing the 
 highest, lowest and average mean temperature during each 
 month in the year, 1898, at Fredericton ; also the average 
 mean temperature during each month deduced trom twenty- 
 three years' observation, with the precipitation for each 
 month of the year 1898 in inches of rain and melted snow, as 
 compared with the average precipitation of rain and melted 
 snow at Fredericton for twenty-three years. It must be 
 noted in this connection that there would be presented very 
 different conditions in other portions of the Province. 
 Fredericton being much warmer in summer and much colder 
 in winter than is the case with places nearer the sea-coast. 
 The province is entirely free from violent storms of any ap- 
 proach to the types found throughout the western United 
 States, no storm ever attaining sufficient violence, exceptino- 
 under the most exceptional circumstances to do any consid- 
 erable damage ; nor is the province liable to the droughts 
 
11 
 
 'which affect the Western and Middle States, and in some 
 cases, the more Western portions of Canada. The scenery 
 presents an infinite variety, in some portions mighty forests 
 stretch from the point of observation to the horizon in every 
 direction. These are threaded with innumerable streams and 
 rivers, the forests abounding in game, large and small, and 
 the rivers teeming with fish. Some of the streams wind their 
 way through a comparatively flat country. Others move, 
 dark and silent, between vast hills and still others thunder 
 and roar down toward the sea, mere mountain torrents. 
 There is no very high land in the province, the highest of 
 the mountains being the Sagamook in Northumberland 
 County, 2700 feet in height. The general surface of the 
 country is undulating, with a moderate number of compara- 
 tively sharp rises. The beautiful St. John River, sometimes 
 (though inappropriately) called the " Rhine of America," 
 winds its way for nearly five hundred miles from its extreme 
 head waters, the greater portion of its course lying through 
 New Brunswick, and empties into the splendid harbor of St. 
 John on the Bay of Fundy, the natural Winter Port of 
 Canada. The next stream of importance is the Miramichi, 
 emptying into the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and tapping the 
 greatest lumbering section in Eastern Canada. Down the 
 valley of the St. John River and its elaborate tributaries, as 
 well as along the course of many minor streams, stretch 
 thousands upon thousands of acres of the finest interval land, 
 which is self-sustaining, being flooded each spring and fall 
 .and having its fertility constantly renewed by the coating of 
 soil torn from the banks of the upper waters of the rivers, 
 which is deposited upon it twice each year. Then there are 
 -great stretches of the best upland farming country lying over 
 the Upper Silurian Formation, and on the East shore of the 
 ■province another type of land sloping down to the blue 
 waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence is to be found ; and here 
 the sea comes in and adds its quotum of mussel mudand sea- 
 weed as fertilizer ; and then around the head waters of the 
 Bay of Fundy, and depending on, the wonderful tides of this 
 body of water for their very existence, lie what are in many 
 
12 
 
 respects the most remarkable farming lands in the world. 
 The famous Tantramar and other dyke 'ands, valued often as 
 high as two hundred, dollars', (forty pounds) per 'acre, which 
 are absolutely self-sustaining requiring no further fertilizing- 
 but that the rich silt-bearing waters of the Bay of Fundy 
 should be occasionaly let through the dykes to ebb and flow 
 at will over the land and deposit their rich coating of 
 the wonderfully fertile red mud which is peculiar of all the- 
 headwaters of the Bay. As can be seen more definitely 
 under the head of Westmorland County, the marsh mud 
 which can be had in unlimited quantities Tor the hauling,, 
 around the Bay of Fundy region, is the finest fertilizer that 
 can be applied to uplands of all types. 
 
 The industries of New Brunswick are: First and most im_ 
 portant, farming ; second, lumbering, (I am speaking parti- 
 cularly of what might be called the natural industries of the 
 country — those depending on the natural resources.) Third, 
 fishing in its various branches; and fourth, the various manu- 
 facturing processes, including prominently the production of 
 pulp from the great forests ot spruce that clothe portions of 
 the province. Fifth in importance ranks the development of 
 the mineral resources of the country. Of these, farming is 
 conducted under the most suspicious circumstances. Within, 
 the last few years, the development in farming in the Pro- 
 vince of New Brunswick has been simply remarkable, the 
 change from old methods which were unscientific to new- 
 methods which are scientific from every point of view has- 
 oeen exceedingly rapid. No more important branch of 
 farming has developed, or is developing in the country, than, 
 dairying, for which the province is most admirably suited. 
 Before the year 1891, practically nothing was done in that 
 line. Since that time great strides have been made. I pub- 
 lish below a valuable little description in outline of the- 
 development of the dairying industries of the provincs. This- 
 was prepared by Mr. Thomas A. Peters, the Deputy Com- 
 missioner of Agriculture, and will give some conception ot 
 how rapidly dairying is progressing. 
 
13 
 DAIRYING IN NEW BRUNSWICK. 
 
 The dairying industry in the Province of New Brunswick 
 is one of the most important to be found. The cool, moist 
 climate, rich, deep fertile soil watered by its numerous rivers,, 
 streams and lakes, and its broad pastures with plenty of 
 shade trees seem to warrant the statement that there is no- 
 country yet engaged in this occupation with so many natural 
 advantages for its successful operation than this country 
 possesses. While our summer season is not probably so- 
 long as it is in provinces further west, yet we do not have to 
 suffer the long droughts which are prevalent in other great 
 dairying centres. 
 
 Dairying in this province was, I might say, only com- 
 menced in 1 89 1, and even then on a small scale, for in that 
 year only about one-eighth of a million pounds of cheese were 
 manufactured. Many difficulties arose at that time to pre- 
 vent a very rapid advancement. The following year hay and 
 grain sold for high prices, and as a result the cows in a 
 majority of cases were fed on a ration of straw, the effect of 
 which was plainly visible the next season. 
 
 A system of Farmer's Institute meetings was established 
 and meetings were held all over the province, which soon 
 beean to show their g-ood effects. The New Brunswick 
 government, realizing the vast importance of the dairy indus 
 trv, decided to offer bonuses to the extent of $150 for cheese 
 factories and $250 for creameries to any one who would erect 
 and equip these factories. Many took advantage of this 
 ^enerous offer, and in 1892 sixteen factories were in opera- 
 tion, making 532,000 lbs. of cheese, and two creameries with 
 an output of 31,000 lbs. 
 
 Between the years 1892-95 thirty-seven new cheese 
 factories were established, making a total of fifty-three, with 
 an output of 1,263,200 lbs.; and seven creameries were in 
 operation, making 113,892 pounds of butter. 
 
 With the year 1896 came a reverse in affairs, for during 
 that season there was a shortage over the previous season of 
 one-half a million pounds of cheese and 32,000 pounds of 
 
14 
 
 butter. The slump was chiefly caused by the low prices 
 realized for dairy products in 1895. 
 
 In 1897 we regained our old position so far as cheese 
 was concerned, and a better price was realized for the output 
 of the factories, but the creameries d^d not fare so well, and 
 there was a still greater decrease in the make than in 1896, 
 the whole output being reduced to about twenty tons. The 
 rate of increase from 1897 up to the present time in cheese 
 has been about one-half a million pounds of cheese per year, 
 while over three times as much butter has been made this 
 year than last, the total output of the season of 1890 being 
 2,000,000 pounds of cheese and 305,000 pounds of butter. 
 
 OUR EXPORT TRADE. 
 
 Our export trade has been steadily increasing from year 
 to year, as the following will show : 
 
 CHEESE. 
 
 1894. 1895. 1896. 1897. 1898. 1899. 
 205,000 442,000 450,000 465,000 832,767 1,500,000 lbs. 
 
 BUTTER. 
 1894. 1895. 1899. 
 
 40,000 55,000 243,705 lbs. 
 
 Reports from across the water have been very flattering 
 regarding the quality of our goods, and now that we have a 
 place on the Old Country market, extra efforts are being 
 made by all our dairymen to hold the ground that we have- 
 acquired, which we realize is not an easy thing ^ to do in the 
 face of so many competiting countries. 
 
 WINTER DAIRYING. 
 
 Winter dairying was first started in New Brunswick in 
 1897, when the Department of Agriculture leased the factory 
 at Sussex, Kings County, and established three skimming 
 stations in connection therewith. A fair business was done 
 during the winter of 1897-8, and it was decided to operate in 
 the same County the following winter on a more extensive 
 scale. 
 
15 
 
 During the summer of 1898 a creamery was erected in 
 Carleton County by private parties, and the work was con- 
 tinued in both King's and Carleton Counties during the winters 
 of 1898-9. 
 
 The quantity of bu|ter made was greatly in excess of 
 that made the previous year, and the prospects for this 
 winter are very encouraging. 
 
 It is now a dominant fact that the great industry is 
 fairly established, and with the co-operation of all dairymen 
 grand results must surely follow. 
 
 Though every advantage is offered for this industry, it 
 is not to be supposed that the province does not offer equal 
 advantages for the prosecution of other kinds of farming. 
 The Provincial Government has realized the fact that the 
 province has a great agricultural' future and has made this 
 the key-note of the most important portion of its policy. So 
 valuable do I consider another little compilation of the Agri- 
 cultural Department that I also publish it under the head of 
 Agricultural in New Brunswick, below : 
 
 AGRICULTURE IN NEW BRUNSWICK. 
 
 From an agricultural point of view this province is one 
 of the best in the Dominion. Being situated on the sea, its 
 ■shores are indented by deep bays, while the inland is beauti- 
 fied by numerous small streams, rivers and lakes. The 
 principal river is the St. John, which, though not navigable 
 for large vessels for more than 140 miles from its mouth, is 
 noted for its beautiful scenery and productive intervales along 
 its bank. 
 
 The climate is one of the best, although the temperature 
 reaches extreme points for short periods both in summer .and 
 winter, yet the conditions are such that for carrying on all 
 branches of work, it no doubt excels that of the provinces 
 lying around us. 
 
 "For any great plan of immigration or colonization 
 there is no British colony which presents such a field for trial 
 as New Brunswick." This was the official reports of the Com- 
 missioners sent out by the British Government to explore a 
 
16 
 
 line of railway more than half a century ago. If such a. 
 report could be made at that time, I am quite sure too much 
 cannot Be said from a immigration point of view at the- 
 present time. Many broad acres are now under a high state 
 of cultivation which half a century ago were almost an 
 impenetrable forest, and today, with railways extending over- 
 all sections, enables the emigrant to accomplish work that 
 was unknown fifty years ago. 
 
 The land is gently undulating and without many very high 
 elevations. The soil is rich, deep and very fertile in nearly 
 every section, and being well watered, is suitable for growing 
 nearly every crop with a profitable return. 
 
 About 1,500,000 acres of land are now under crops, 
 1,000,000 acres under pasture, 500,000 under garden and 
 orchard cultivation. 
 
 The principal crops grown in 1898 were: Hay, 700,000 
 tons; oats, 5,000,000; wheat, 410,000 bushels; barley, 
 109,000; rye, 10,000; buckwheat, 1,658,000; beans, 25,000; 
 turnips, 1,000,000 bushels, and about 5,000,000 bushels of 
 potatoes. 
 
 The Local Government realizing the immense importance 
 of wheat growing, established their now famous wheat policy, 
 which has been the means of retaining a large amount of 
 money that has hitherto been sent out of the province for 
 flour. This policy was established in 1898, when authority 
 was granted the Commissioner for Agriculture to offer a 
 bonus of twenty per cent, of the cost of equipment to persons 
 or companies equipping roller mills in sections approved of 
 by the Commissioner. 
 
 Authority was also granted to make an importation of 
 seeds for distribution among the farmers of the province, and 
 in 1898 and '99, 3,000 and 5,000 bushels respectively were 
 distributed. During the last two years twelve Hungarian 
 Roller Mills have been established with very gratifying 
 results. The following will give some idea of the increase 
 in the growth of wheat since 1891. In that year only 200,000 
 bushels were grown, while in 1899 we have the gratifying 
 return of 500,000 bushels. The quality of the wheat grown 
 
17 
 
 is unexcelled, it being large and hard, and as before in- 
 timated, with the assistance of roller mills is capable of 
 making a high grade flour. 
 
 The counties of Carleton, York and Westmorland are 
 probably the best sections of the province tor hay growing 
 and pasture grass, and are equally good for the production 
 oi oats, buckwheat and barley; while for wheat production 
 Gloucester and Kent are the banner counties. 
 
 With crops such as the above laying at the farmer's 
 command, large quantities of beef are made, the quantity 
 increasing every year, especially in the eastern portion of the 
 province. 
 
 The production of pork, which goes hand in hand with' 
 the dairying industry, is making very rapid strides, induced 
 largely by the increased interest which is taken in the manu- 
 facture of cheese and butter, the by-products of which'are 
 supplemented by a grain ration and used tor this purpose. 
 
 Another very important feature of New Brunswick is the 
 home market for everything produced on the farm. The vast 
 lumbering operations of the province entails the keeping of a 
 large number of men and horses. Then, with the Winter 
 Port at St. John, where large numbers of horses, cattle and 
 sheep are exported to the Old Country from the west, our 
 market is greatly stimulated, for all these animals must be 
 fed. 
 
 Dairying is one of the most important branches of 
 agriculture in New Brunswick at the present time and the- 
 growth of the industry during the last few years has been 
 rapid, for in 1892 only nineteen factories were in operation, 
 manufacturing 532,000 pounds of cheese and 31,953 pounds 
 of butter; while this year there has been in operation sixty 
 cheese factories manufacturing about 2,000,000 pounds of 
 cheese and ten creameries making 310,000 pounds of butter. 
 About two-thirds of this quantity was exported to the Old 
 Country, for which high prices were obtained and very- 
 flattering reports accompanied the returns in nearly every 
 instance. 
 
18 . 
 
 The principle drawback with which the dairymen have 
 to contend in this province is the long" distance from the Old 
 Country, which is our principle market. While the cheese 
 sent over is not materially damaged, the exports of butter do 
 not fare so well, although transportation facilities have been 
 very much improvedjduring the last two or three years, and 
 as the dairying industry is advancing- all over the Dominion, 
 we are looking' for a' corresponding' advance in shipping 
 facilities. 
 
 The province of New Brunswick is particularly well 
 adapted for dairying;. We have a country notably well 
 watered and a moist and cooler climate than many parts of 
 the world at present engaged in this branch of farming. Our 
 pastures are fresher and when properly looked after will 
 produce more per acre than those farther west of us, while 
 the land under cultivation is capable of producing large crops 
 of choice milk producing foods. 
 
 Notwithstanding our winter and about seven months' 
 •compulsory stable feeding, facts go to show, as already 
 stated, that New Brunswick can produce as choice an article 
 of cheese or butter as cheaply as most any country. When 
 we come to beet production, we are compelled to admit that 
 our own Northwest, the western planes of the United States 
 and the great natural pastures of South America can manu- 
 facture it more cheaply than we can. Nevertheless, the New 
 Brunswick farmer realizes the fact that beef can be very 
 profitably raised from cheap foods such as corn fodder, 
 turnips, oats, buckwheat, etc., of which we have abundant 
 crops. We can report fair progress in the beef raising 
 industry, especially in the eastern portion of the Province 
 where thousands of acres of marsh land are available and 
 suitable for this work. 
 
 FRUIT. 
 
 The cultivation of apples is increasing very rapidly from 
 year to year, especially along the St. John Valley district, 
 which is about the only fruit raising district of the province, 
 the soil being particularly well adapted for the growth of 
 apples. 
 
19 
 
 Few orchards are yet extensive enough to produce a 
 very large quantity of any one variety, excepting the New 
 Brunswick, which looses its flavor very quickly after being 
 picked. Winter varieties such as Bishop Pippin, Fameuse 
 and Ben Davis are being grown quite extensively in some 
 -sections, and more attention is being given to the orchards 
 than previously has been devoted to them. 
 
 The cultivation of small fruits, such as strawberries, 
 raspberries, currants and gooseberries is also on the increase, 
 especially in the vicinity of towns and cites. 
 
 This industry might be considerably increased with 
 advantage both to growers and consumers, and might be 
 considerably increased on the farm for home use. 
 
 The Local Government has frequently made importations 
 of pure bred stock consisting of cattle, sheep and swine, at a 
 great expense, and distributed them all over the province 
 with a view of stimulating and encouraging the breeding of 
 a better class of stock. The result of these distributions is 
 plainly visible, for a general improvement in nearly all 
 classes has been realized. 
 
 Different kinds of seeds are also from time to time dis- 
 tributed with very gratifying results. 
 
 Encouragement is also given to the farmers of the 
 province by the assistance granted by the Government to the 
 Agricultural Societies, $9,000 being appropriated for this 
 purpose yearly. 
 
 Three dairy superintendents are employed by the Gov- 
 ernment for the purpose of giving instruction to the cheese 
 and butter makers, in order that a uniform article may be 
 made. They also encourage the erection of these factories 
 in suitable sections. 
 
 From what I have said and from what can be inferred 
 from this Report, it is very evident that the province has 
 vast capabilities with regard to its power of producing the 
 very food products that are required in Great Britain. It 
 has been the tendency, unfortunately, throughout the pro- 
 vince for farmers to raise their hay and make a considerable 
 portion of their very comfortable living by selling it. If this 
 
20 
 
 hay and the other farm products were employed as they 
 should be, being- used on the farm in feeding stock, both for 
 meat and dairy purposes, and poultry, the results would be- 
 very different than they are at present. Throughout the pro- 
 vince there is a splendid chance for the class of farmer who 
 knows his business. The market advantages are rapidly in- 
 creasing, but so great is the fertile area that the price of 
 land, compared with land in other countries of like fertility, 
 remains remarkably low. Of course it is more difficult to 
 obtain the best class of farms under any conditions, but 
 there are always accidental circumstances which put even 
 the best farms on the market. During the summer and 
 autumn of 1899, the Government has been taking options on 
 the better class of farms through the province and, as far as 
 I know, there has not been a single instance of a man who 
 wished to sell because he was dissatisfied with farming in 
 the Province of New Brunswick. There was always some 
 very good reason why he should do so. Either he was ad- 
 vancing in age and his children, if he had any, were taking 
 up some professions, or, as in the case of a considerable 
 number, he was growing old in the work, childless and was 
 independent, and wishing to move'td a town and live quietly 
 without further work for the rest of his life, he had decided 
 to sell the farm. A number of places to be sold under these 
 conditions, including some of the finest farms in the province- 
 in the best state of cultivation, are to be obtained. To give 
 some idea of prices, let me cite an instance or two. A farm 
 of 800 acres, 700 of which is an interval, situated at Gage- 
 town on the St. John River valley, can at present (January 
 1900) be obtained for $12,000.00, (about 2400 pounds sterl- 
 ing); this price including buildings, etc. Another farm only 
 a mile from Sussex and in the. centre of the foremost dairy 
 section in the province, with some forty acres of interval at- 
 attached, consisting of some 250 acres in all, about 100 being 
 cleared and under cultivation, can be obtained for $2,800.00, 
 (550 pounds sterling.) This also includes wooden buildings. 
 Some places of course reach considerably above these in 
 price proportionately, and some again can be obtained for 
 
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 much less money. The latter instance however, would be 
 considered a cheap farm in the province, taking into consid- 
 eration all the advantages which its position presents. Be- 
 sides this cheapness of land, another feature that makes the 
 province a most desirable home for the fanners is the fact 
 that building- materials and fuel can be obtained everywhere 
 for the labor of obtaining them. No portion oi the country 
 has become so densely populated but that fire-wood and 
 timber can be found within a day's hauling. The population 
 is scattered, following the wonderfully fertile lands in the 
 river valleys and elsewhere, and leaving considerable 
 stretches of forest throughout the whole province This of 
 course is a tremendous advantage. Nowhere can a house 
 be erected more cheaplv than here, and nowhere can it be 
 warmed more readily during the winter season. The farmer, 
 is indeed, a rarity who has not on his own farm sufficient 
 firewood for his use. Of course, I am speaking now of the 
 man who wishes to live in the most economical way. The 
 majority of farmers throughout New Brunswick burn coal to 
 a great extent, this mineral in its bituminous form here being 
 very cheap, on account of the proximity of the Nova Scotia 
 coal fields. A much better conception can be obtained how- 
 ever, by reading the descriptions of different portions of the 
 province. These will lead one to infer that there are many 
 things to tell the British farmer as to why he should take up 
 his residence in New Brunswick. The man who is bound to 
 make a success ot farming in this country is he who has at 
 least a moderate amount of capital to invest in the beginning, 
 thus he will have his farm free from debt, and perhaps, 
 from the beginning, or, under the most unfavorable circum- 
 stances, in a few years will be an independent if not a 
 wealthy farmer. Professor Nathaniel S. Shaler, the Dean of 
 the Lawrence Scientific School of Harvard University, said 
 to me of New Brunswick, when speaking of it regarding its 
 adaptability to settlement by English farmers, that it pre- 
 sents more advantages, in his opinion, "especially for an 
 Englishman, than any other country to which they could 
 migrate. "The climate," he said, "might be compared 
 
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to that of England, north of Birmingham ; this comparison 
 being a rough one, as the winters were considerably colder 
 and the summer somewhat milder. " An Englishman" he 
 continued, " will find this province more like England than 
 any other portion of the world. There is everything here to 
 recall the old land to him ; the big willows and elms, and the 
 same farming methods may be employed here, with but very 
 slight modification." He said further regarding the pro- 
 vince as follows : — 
 
 "One of the best things that could happen to this province would 
 be for the people who inhabit it to arrive at a thorough appreciation of 
 what it is actually capable of doing-. Its advantages are remarkably 
 numerous. It is a splendid agricultural country, much finer than any 
 section of the New England States. " 
 
 [Professor Shaler is the largest farmer in the New England States, 
 and an opinion coming from him must necessarily have a great deal of 
 weight, independent of all his knowledge on the subject.] 
 
 "Among the other advantages of the province," he continued, 
 "are the following: First, it has an enormous length of coast; both 
 the Gulf o( St. Lawrence and the Bay of Fundy are what would be con- 
 sidered safe seas, as they are subject to no sudden storms. The 
 province is so situated that it is free from the worst effects of the storms 
 that travel from the west, as they either travel down the St. Lawrence 
 Valley or reach the ocean across the New England States. The 
 climate is a fine one; the summers are cool and bracing and the winters 
 are cold and healthful. You should be proud of your marsh land, as 
 well as your intervals. One of the defects of the province, from mv 
 point of view, is that Indian corn does not mature properly, though it 
 can be raised most readily for the silo. A great many' crops that could 
 be raised readily here are absolutely neglected. As an instance of this, 
 hops can be cited. Whoever heard of raising hops in New Brunswick? 
 Still, they can be grown to advantage as far north as the Baie de 
 Chaleur, in the extreme north of the province. Oats are here a 
 magnificent crop, yielding up to sixty bushels to the acre or even more. 
 The same thing is true of buckwheat. There are no'drouths; practically 
 -every crop that can be raised in this latitude is a success in New 
 Brunswick. The woods contain great quantities of small berries of 
 'many varieties, fuel is cheap, and nowhere can houses be built at less 
 ■ cost than here. In six years land can be brought to full cultivation 
 from the absolute wilderness. Along the enormous tidal fronts, with 
 safe landing, are to be found abundance of fish. The smelt fishing- 
 through the ice is a feature well worth noting. The large runs of salmon 
 iup the rivers, the quantities of herring, shad, cod and haddock, and the 
 
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 larg"e numbers of lobsters and oysters to be gotten on the Gulf coasts- 
 are all indicative of the ease with which food can be obtained through- 
 out the province. The River St. John is another magnificient feature. 
 
 The climate may be compared with the climate of England north 
 of Birmingham, being colder in winter and with a somewhat milder 
 summer. Spruce renews itself with extraordinary rapidity, and, in my 
 opinion, a man who has five hundred acres and keeps three hundred in 
 spruce, has in this latter a good crop 
 
 Professor Shaler mentioned many other thing's about the province — 
 its scenery, mineral prospects and other resources which would be too 
 numerous to mention; but what has been said will give some idea of 
 his opinion of the country as a whole. 
 
 Professor Shaler also said, in speaking of another phase of the 
 resources of the country, that the province was one of the finest big game 
 countries in the world. One other thing that he said is, that nowhere 
 in his travels had he seen healthier or sturdier looking children than 
 he saw throughout this country. t • 
 
 Let us sum up in brief then the chief advantages 
 which the Province presents to the farmer, whether he comes 
 with very little money at his disposal or whether he has a 
 sufficient amount of capital to make himself independent trom. 
 the first. 
 
 ist. It lies in the extreme eastern portion of the Dom- 
 inion of Canada, the most important of the British colonies, 
 and is thus, with the sister province of Nova Scotia, nearer 
 the British market than any other portion of the empire 
 possessing the same fertility. When I say nearer, this in 
 the case under consideration, means very much nearer. To 
 convince oneself of this, it is only necessary to look at a map- 
 ot the world, noting the portions of the empiie which lie 
 nearer the mother country and which are unaffected as far as 
 their food supply in the time of war is concerned by the 
 proximity of foreign powers. Independent of this latter 
 phase, it will be seen that New Brunswick's position is an 
 enviable one. Lying-only six days' sail from Great Britain, 
 and having this time gradually cut clown by the introduction 
 of quicker methods of transportation (steamers of higher 
 speed), no great food-producing colony lies as near the 
 British market as does this, and the Maritime Provinces are 
 the most advantageously situated in this respect. Beside. 
 
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24 
 
 this there is a considerable local market which is not to be 
 despised, and which is increasing- rapidly. 
 
 2nd. The country lies in the midst of the temperate 
 zone and practically half way between the north pole and the 
 equator. It is a wonderfully healthful climate, wdth clear 
 summers and cold winters. Of all the British garrison 
 stations throughout the world, Fredericton, the capital of the 
 province, when a garrison town, stood first as regards its 
 healthfulness; and this is no light matter to the people who 
 are to live in the country. One writer (an American), speak- 
 ing of the climate, says : "With one exception, the climate 
 of the New Brunswick winter is the finest in the world, and 
 that exception is the climate of the New Brunswick summer." 
 
 The climate necessarily has its direct effect on the people, 
 the result being as fine a class of men physically, having as 
 •pure morals and a mental balance and moral sanity as clear 
 and vigorous as have any people under the sun. It is a 
 climate that leads to the youth of the country taking a natural 
 interest in athletics, and nowhere are out-door sports 
 followed more enthusiastically than through this province. 
 In summer canoeing, fishing, boat sailing and rowing, walk- 
 ing, bicycle riding, mountain climbing and camping out fill 
 in the time. In the autumn comes the time when the vast 
 variety of game with which the province swarms is in season, 
 and hunting of various descriptions is carried on most exten- 
 sively. In the winter the ground is covered deep with snow 
 and out-door sports still reign supreme. Tobogganing, 
 coasting, snow-shoeing and skating are entered into with the 
 greatest enthusiasm by old and young. An American not 
 long since, a noted authority in athletics in the United States, 
 said to me: "The Canadians are the greatest sportsmen in 
 the world; they take a keener interest in out-door life and 
 out-door sport for its own sake than any people I know, and 
 I have been everywhere. They enter into athletic sports in a 
 different spirit than we do, and I can hardlv vet understand 
 them. They do not seem to care whether they lose or win, 
 beyond doing their best, and, if they lose, are up and at it 
 
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again." This, I think, is not an exaggeration, and is a good 
 indication of the tendency to be found throughout the country. 
 3rd. The province has a splendid educational system, 
 whose interests are presided over by the Board of Education, 
 a department of the Provincial Government. This Board 
 consists of the foremost educationalists of the province, and 
 by it the work is prescribed. A great pride is taken in edu- 
 cational matters, among the finest buildings in every town 
 being the schools. Great numbers of smaller school houses 
 are scattered throughout the country, and hardly a farm can 
 be' found, except in the most out-lying districts, which is 
 more than a mile from the school house. The staff ot 
 teachers to be found in these schools is necessarily an efficient 
 one, as they are trained at and obtain their licenses from the 
 Provincial Normal School at Fredericton. The system, as 
 founded in New Brunswick today, is the result of much 
 thought and much labor by men who have given their lives 
 to the subject, the result being that the educational system 
 of the Maritime Provinces is unsurpassed in the world. The 
 schools are free throughout, and the higher courses in the 
 high schools are in reality on a par with the more elementary 
 work of a university course, and the boy or girl who takes 
 advantage of all the educational facilities offered free by the 
 province should be able to write, not only good English, but 
 should have formed a style, with a firmness and breadth that 
 indicates originality. He should have a thorough knowledge 
 of all the more elementary branches of mathematics, advanced 
 algebra, trigonometry and book-keeping. He should have a 
 considerable knowledge ot natural science, not in the value- 
 less way it has so often been taught, but a considerable 
 practical knowledge, that will not alone give him a grasp of 
 things as they are, but should be of the utmost economic 
 value to him in his lite, especially if that life is to be the life 
 of a farmer. He should have good reading knowledge of 
 French, German, Latin and Greek, and should be acquainted 
 with the more common of the classics. Besides all these 
 things, he should have a practical application of the natural 
 science work, a fair elementary knowledge of physiology and 
 
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 hygiene, embodying a sufficient ground work to enable him' 
 to have a knowledge of how to keep himself in the best 
 physical condition. These, as before, are the conditions 
 which the New Brunswick system of education tends to bring 
 about. For a more accurate knowledge of that system it 
 will be necessary to refer to the curriculum, which is uniform 
 throughout the province, copies of which can be obtained 
 from the Educational Department. 
 
 4th. Land is cheap, as is the cost of living, and a farm 
 mav be bought in New Brunswick for a sum that would in 
 many cases be much less than the annual rental of the same 
 sized farm in Great Britain, and the quality of the soil is 
 unsurpassed, the climatic conditions also being everything 
 that can be desired for successful farming of the type found 
 throughout the temperate zone. 
 
 5th. Fuel and building materials are on every hand, 
 practicallv the only expense connected with obtaining them 
 being that of the actual process, the materials for the most 
 part being obtained free. 
 
 6th. There are large, unsettled areas which are yet to 
 be cleared, and, though the labour that is involved is con- 
 siderable and the results slow to come, compared with those 
 obtained by taking up cultivated farms ; still, for the man 
 who has no money, and wishes in a matter of five or six 
 years to place himself in an independent position, no country 
 offers better agricultural facilities than does New Brunswick, 
 uncleared land being obtainable at prices which are really 
 hardly more than nominal. Some of the best uncleared land 
 in the Province can be had for a dollar (four shillings ap- 
 proximately) per acre. The Government w 7 ill do everything 
 in its power to further the interests of either type of settler. 
 If a man comes out with a moderate amount of capital, and 
 a moderate amount in some countries is a considerable 
 amount in New Brunswick — say five hundred to a thousand 
 pounds sterling, or even very much less, some farms being 
 obtained for one hundred pounds, the Government will do all 
 in their power to see that the settler gets the very best 
 position which he can, with the amount of money which he 
 
27 
 
 has on hand. On the other hand, in the case of a man who 
 comes out with practically no money left after paying his 
 passage, except that necessary to purchase his land from the 
 the Crown, the Government will do all in their power tor him 
 on his arrival at St. John, and see that he gets properly 
 placed and comfortably settled. 
 
 I publish below extracts from the regulations for 
 carrying out the provisions of the Labour Act ot the Province 
 bearing on this matter. 
 
 All applications for Crown Land must be made in the name of and 
 bv the real applicant, or bv his Attorney duly authorized, and the Grant 
 shall be issued only to him, unless his claim be transferred with the 
 approval oi' the Lieutenant Governor in Council. 
 
 If the Petition be accepted, its approval shall be published in the 
 Roval Gazette, and within three months thereafter {but if between 1st 
 October and 1st April, then to reckon as from the latter) he shall im- 
 prove and clear on his lot to the value of not less than (20) twenty 
 dollars; and also within three months additional to the value in all of 
 not less than (40) forty dollars 
 
 Xo Labor Act Commissioner is to assign work in payment for Land, 
 until he knows that the applicant has improved to the value of at 
 least £40, (as required by Regulation 3), and report must be made be- 
 fore 31st October of the same year in which the work is done, other- 
 wise it will not be credited. 
 
 He shall within two years after publication of his approval, trans- 
 mit to the Surveyor-General a Certificate attested to by himself on oath 
 before a Magistrate, and certified by two of his neighbors, that he has 
 built a house fit for occupancy upon the lot, of not less dimensions than 
 sixteen by twenty feet; and is then residing therein, and that he has. 
 cleared and had cultivated in the previous year at least four acres of 
 the said lot. 
 
 The absence named in the above Act shall not in any one year ex- 
 ceed five months, viz : — In Summer, during the months of July and: 
 August ; and in Winter, during- the months of January, February and; 
 March. 
 
 Before he shall be permitted to cut any timber or lumber (except 
 that cut in clearing the land for cultivation) he shall transmit to the- 
 Surveyor General a Certificate as prescribed in Section 5, and also ai 
 Certificate from the Commissioner that he has performed the necessary, 
 amount of labour. 
 
 All persons who have purchased Crown Lands not exceeding ioo> 
 acres, under previous Regulations, and have paid the amount of $20, or 
 have performed work to the value of $30 on roads, and are actually 
 
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28 
 
 then residing' on and improving the lot so purchased, and have so resid- 
 ed and improved the same for the three previous consecutive years, 
 shall be entitled to a Grant upon producing a Certificate to that effect 
 from a Labour Act Commissioner ; such Certificate to be sworn to by 
 the settler before a neighboring Magistrate. 
 
 No person shall be authorized under the previously recited'Act to 
 commence an action for trespass upon his lot, unless he shall have pre- 
 viously presented to the Surveyor General a Certificate on oath that he 
 has performed all the conditions required by the Act of Assembly and 
 the present Regulations, necessary to entitle him to present possession 
 of the lot located to him. 
 
 The Surveyor General shall prepare the necessary Forms of Peti- 
 tions, Certificates, &c, to carry out the provisions of the above Act, and 
 shall furnish them to Magistrates, Commissioners, and all other per- 
 sons who may apply, in order to secure uniformity in official documents 
 connected with the before recited Acts. 
 
 No application will be approved unless forwarded by a Commis- 
 sioner or a Justice of the Peace. 
 
 7th. The religious conditions in New Brunswick are 
 such that, wherever a man is situated, he is never any great 
 distance from a church. In every little village throughout 
 the province the number of church spires is a source 
 of wonderment to the traveller who sees the country 
 for the first time. Professor Shaler. whom I have 
 quoted several times, in speaking of the City of 
 St. John in this connection, says that, undoubt- 
 edly, it has the finest churches of any city of its size in the 
 world. They are for the most part massive stone or brick 
 structures, with tastefully designed interiors. The city is a 
 ■city of church-goers. This remark applies to practically 
 ■every town in the province. Throughout the country sections 
 hardly can a few houses get together, forming a small 
 farming centre, than a year or two will see a church spring 
 up in their midst. The denominations to be found through- 
 out the province are for the most part the following: Church 
 of England, Roman Catholic, Presbyterian, Methodist, 
 Baptist and Congregationalist. There are other denomina- 
 tions in small numbers. An American said of the province: 
 "The reason you have not got Christian Scientists and 
 -Spiritualists is because the climate is not calculated to breed 
 
29 
 
 them," There may be some truth in the remark. Jftany of 
 the country churches are very fine stone structures of which 
 the province is justified in being; proud. The two classes of 
 buildings which are the finest in every New Brunswick village 
 are the churches and the schools, and this indicates more 
 than anything that could be said the moral tone and the 
 mental trend of the country as a whole. 
 
 8th. The means of transportation are unsurpassed. 
 New Brunswick is a complicated net work of natural water- 
 ways, many of which are navigable. The value of this alone 
 is of course, incalculable, but it fades into secondary import- 
 ance when compared with the magnificent railway system 
 through the province. There are more miles of railway in 
 New Brunswick, when compared with the population than in 
 any other country in the world. 
 
 The chief lines of railway are, first the Intercolonial, a 
 portion of the great Canadian Government Railway system 
 running between Montreal and Halifax and possessing a large 
 number of branches. This railway enters the Province from 
 the north at Metapedia on the Restigouche River, proceeds 
 down the valley of the Restigouche to Campbellton, then to 
 Dalhousie at the mouth of the river; from this point it turns 
 to the south, and taps the whole eastern shore of the Pro- 
 vince, Passing through the city of Moncton in Westmorland 
 •County, it proceeds to the southeast, past the towns of Dor- 
 ches:er and Sackville and through the country of the great 
 marsh region at the head waters of the Bay of Fundy. It 
 passes the Tantramar Marsh, and thence enters Cumberland 
 County, Nova Scotia, on its way to Halifax. From Moncton 
 one section of the line runs through Petitcodiac to St. John 
 which is also the Atlantic terminus of the great Canadian 
 Pacific Railway, with the exception of the trans-Siberina, 
 the longest road operated under one management in the 
 world. The Canadian Pacific Railway taps the whole of 
 Central and Western Canada, bringing hundreds of thou- 
 sands of tons of produce to St. John on its way to the British 
 market. The Canadian Pacific Railway system passes 
 (through th^e region west of the St. John River up toFredericton 
 
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 and thence operates lines on both sides of the river 
 to Woodstock. North of this it continues through the 
 valley of the St. John to Edmundston, the shire town of 
 Madawaska County, where it turns north and runs through 
 Quebec. Another branch of the Canadian Pacific Railway 
 leaves the Province at Vanceboro, nine miles from Macadam 
 Junction in York County, and enters the State of Maine, 
 making a short cut through that State to Montreal. The 
 Canada Eastern runs across the Province from Fredericton, 
 up the valley of the Nashwaak River and down the south- 
 west Miramichi to Chatham on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. 
 The Gulf Shore andCaraquet Railway taps the extreme north- 
 eastern portion of the province, Gloucester^County, and con- 
 nects with the Intercolonial at Bathurst. Besides these there 
 are a considerable number of smaller lines, one, the Albert 
 Railway, connecting with the Intercolonial at Salisbury, runs 
 to Albert in the county of that name, the Elgin branch pene- 
 trating the more western portion of the count)'. The- New 
 Brunswick Central runs from Norton near the Grand Lake 
 towns, and the St. Martin's and Upham Railway runs from 
 Hampton to the former town on the shores of the Bay of 
 Funclv. Besides these there are others of less importance 
 and still other lines now in process of construction. It is but 
 necessary to examine a railway map of the province to get 
 some conception of the facilities offered, either tor passenger 
 service or the transportation of produce. 
 
 The most important minerals found in the Province of 
 New Brunswick are iron, copper, nickel, antimony, lead, 
 silver, gold, manganese, bituminous coal, anthracite coal, 
 albertite, petroleum, bituminous shales, graphite, peat, 
 limestone, gypsum, granite, diorite; ornamental stones, such 
 as marble, serpentine, porphry and others in smaller quanti- 
 ties, freestones, millstones, giindstones, slates, clays of ex- 
 cellent quality for brick making, silica, infusorial earth, 
 mineral paints and mineral springs. Besides these are found 
 barytes, fluor, Iceland spar and asbestos. The gem stones 
 are garnets, black tommaline and amethysts. Among rare 
 metal is found molybdenite. Referring to this, Dr. Bailey 
 
31 
 
 ■says: "It is in scattered grains and scales, some of the 
 latter being as large as the thumb nail." For further infor- 
 mation on these minerals, I shall have to refer the reader to 
 the "Mineral Resources of New Brunswick," by L. W. 
 Bailey, Ph. D. LL. D., F. R. S. C, printed by S. E. Daw- 
 son, Ottawa, in 1899, for the Crown Land Department of 
 New Brunswick. Copper has been found in widely spread 
 situations but has been very little developed. There are appar- 
 ently considerable deposits in the Province, one of which is 
 now being worked near Dorchester, Westmorland County. 
 Nickel is found in the mineral pyrrhotite in the vicinity of 
 St Stephen in considerable quantities. Antimony has been 
 worked to a certain extent, but, for some unaccountable 
 reason, was given up. Relating to it Professor Bailey 
 says: — "As to the quantity or quality of the antimony 
 ores of Prince William, there can be but little question," 
 Speaking of the shaft that was worked, he says: "There 
 was also no sign of diminution in the quantity of the ore as 
 followed in depth, but on the contrary a tendency to greater 
 concentration, with a replacement to some extent of Stibnite 
 by native antimony. The question of future working of the 
 deposit is, therefore, nearly one of demand." Lead and 
 silver in the form of galena, is found through the Province at 
 various points, how extensively is yet to be determined. 
 Samples that have been sent to the geological survey have 
 been found to carry silver to the extent of 25.08 ounces to 
 the ton of two thousand pounds. Very small quantities of 
 gold have been discovered in the Province, but no systematic 
 search has yet been made; and, considering the proximity of 
 the rich gold fields of Nova Scotia which form one of the 
 important assets of that Province, it would seem that New 
 Brunswick must also come in for its share. Considerable 
 deposits of manganese have been found in the Province and 
 worked extensively. Like everything of the sort manganese 
 will stand being developed. The bituminous coal has been 
 found in the greatest quantity in the Grand Lake region, 
 and is referred to under the head of Queen's County. Anthra- 
 cite coal has, so far, only been discovered in limited 
 
32 
 
 quantities, chiefly in the vicinity of Lepreaux Basin, a short 
 distance west of the line between St. John and Charlotte 
 Counties. "Albertite " is the name given to a remarkable 
 and peculiar mineral found in Albert County. It was a 
 matter of a great deal of controversy as to what it should be 
 called, whether it was a true coal or was produced through 
 the partial distillation of petroleum. During the time that it 
 was mined, it sold for a remarkable high price, from fifteen 
 to twenty dollars per ton. So great was the dip, however 
 of the seam, that before long, especially as it became of less 
 diameter than above, it did not pay for the raising and ex- 
 penditure connected with the mining. Bituminus shales are 
 to be found in very considerable quantities, scattered through 
 the carboniferous area, especially in the south-east part of 
 the Province. These have been used somewhat extensively 
 themselves, and are now acquiring an additional interest in 
 relation to their bearing on the probability of finding petro- 
 leum in large quantities in the Province. 
 
 The Government has taken an interest in the matter and 
 a company is now making a thorough exploration of the 
 fields to discover all that can be discovered relative to the 
 prospect of finding extensive petroleum deposits in New 
 Brunswick. Considerable deposits of graphite occur in the 
 province. Thev have not, however, been mined extensively. 
 Peat bogs of great extent — the amount of peat being simply 
 incalculable — may ultimately turn out of great value. The- 
 limestones throughout the province have been the basis of 
 very considerable industries. There are a large number about 
 the vicinity of St. John which turn out great quantities of 
 lime. In 1895 lime to the value of $35,709.00 was exported 
 to the United States alone, while in 1890 the same country 
 took the mineral to the value of $143,292.00, this being the 
 largest year's export up to the present. In 188 1 the entire 
 value of the amount exported was only $1,822.00. The 
 gypsum deposits of Hillsborough, Albert County, are very 
 extensive, and have been operated on a large scale tor a 
 considerable number of years, forming the basis of a large,. 
 lucrative industry. No finer quality of gypsum has ever 
 
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 been found than in this vast deposit in New Brunswick. la 
 1897 from Hillsborough alone was shipped to the United 
 States 59,334 tons of the crude plaster rock. Other deposits 
 are found throughout the province. The finest quality of 
 freestone suitable and extensively used for the manufacture 
 of grindstones has long been quarried on a large scale in. 
 New Bondon in Gloucester County, forming the foundation, 
 for a continuous and paying industry of great importance. 
 There are throughout the province considerable quantities of 
 granite and diorite. One of the finest deposits of granite is 
 to be found at Hampstead in Queen's county. These granites 
 are especially suited for foundations and have been thus used 
 — as I learned from Professor Bailey's report — in the piers of 
 the Fredericton bridge and in a considerable number of 
 foundations of large buildings, both public and private. 
 There are also fine deposits of granite throughout the Nerepis 
 Valley and extending westward to St. George. The St. 
 George granite is of a comparatively bright red colour, thus- 
 being very useful as an ornamental stone. There are also 
 throughout the province at various points, to be found black 
 granites. Of ornamental stones marbles of various colours 
 are to be met with some containing serpentine of a pale green 
 colour. There are also moderate deposits of borphyry. 
 Throughout various sections of the province are to be found 
 some very fine quarries of free stone, mill stone and grind 
 stone; some of the finest free stone quarries are to be found 
 at the head of the Bay of Fundy. One of the best of these 
 quarries is to be found near Newcastle, Northumberland 
 County. Among the best of all the grind stone quarries are 
 those found at Stone Haven in Gloucester County on the 
 shore of the Baie de Chaleur. Slate is scattered in many 
 positions throughout the province, as is also true of clay 
 suitable for brick making. There are considerable deposits 
 of silica and one or two of infusorial earth. Of mineral, 
 springs, there are some very fine salt springs, at Sussex. 
 From these a splendid quality of salt has been made for some 
 time, much of which has been used in salting the large quan- 
 tities of butter turned out in the Sussex Valley. In the 
 
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 Parish of Havelock are to he found some fine mineral springs, 
 the water from which is used in the manufacture of a variety 
 of beveragres. 
 
 NEW BRUNSWICK AS A GAME COUNTRY. 
 
 The Province of New Brunswick stands today the finest 
 •of all the accessible hunting regions on the North American 
 ^continent. The big game hunting alone being very fine. 
 The government of the province, realizing the importance of 
 preserving the game have enacted a series of game laws, 
 which are enforced most stringently; the result being 
 embodied in ihe foregoing sentence. The practical result is 
 that a man who goes out in the province in search of big 
 game rarely comes back disappointed, and if he does he is 
 almost always in a position to blame himself for it. The big 
 game to be found in New Brunswick consists of four species: 
 the moose, the largest and most magnificent of the deer 
 tribe at present in existence; the caribou, an animal almost 
 as much sought after as the moose; the Virginia deer and the 
 American black bear. The latter is very shy and is only 
 occasionally met with. Great numbers of moose, caribou 
 and deer, however, are to be found throughout the province. 
 The game law is such that no one person is allowed to shoot 
 more than one moose, one caribou and two deer in any 
 ■one season. The tendency, of course, is for the game to 
 increase rapidly under such conditions as these, and if a man 
 returns to civilization with his full allowance, he should be 
 ■well satisfied. The moose is a magnificent animal, weighing 
 ■often i, ooo pounds, standing seven feet or more in height, 
 with an enormous palmated pair of antlers, sometimes 
 stretching over five feet from tip to tip and weighing as much 
 as seventy pounds. The moose are hunted in a variety of 
 ways, the most popular and one of the most exciting being 
 known as "calling," of which a description will be given 
 later on. The caribou is also a magnificent specimen of the 
 -deer tribe, somewhat smaller than the moose, but often more 
 
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 difficult to obtain. Like their bigger cousin, they are very 
 wary and extremely fleet of foot. They range over vast 
 distances in a comparatively short time, seeming always to 
 be on the move, and clever, indeed, is the sportsman who 
 can always be certain of getting his caribou. The Red Deer 
 or Virginia Deer is a beautiful little animal, the buck, like 
 the caribou, having branching antlers. The species is ex- 
 tremely graceful, light limbed and fleet of foot, and generally 
 remarkably wary. They inhabit the timber woods, often on 
 the higher hardwood lands. The Black Bear, an animal 
 which much resembles the goblins of fairy tales, inasmuch as 
 he has a dreadful reputation (in books), is now found com- 
 monly only in the more uncivilized portions of the province 
 around the wilderness lakes and mountains. He is a great 
 sheep thief, or rather was when plentiful, and the sportsman 
 is, indeed, lucky if he comes across a bear accidentally. No 
 animal in New Brunswick fauna has a greater regard for his 
 own hide, and none is more cowardly. I have yet to hear of 
 an authentic instance of the black bear attacking anybody, 
 except when badly wounded and cornered, and many are the 
 amusing stories told of this shy animal as the camp fire smoke 
 curls its way up through the dark green canopy of spruce 
 needles overhead. 
 
 In the last few years, owing to the great number of 
 moose, caribou and deer to be found in the province, New 
 Brunswick has become the resort of some of the most famous 
 sportsmen of both hemispheres. The number of moose to 
 be found throughout the great northern section drained by 
 the Restigouche and Miramichi Rivers, as well as by the 
 Tobique, can only be surmised. Over and over again I have 
 seen the muddy spots on the banks of one of the above rivers, 
 looking as though a herd of cattle had been there day in and 1 
 day out. There were moose tracks everywhere and track 
 upon track. Occasionally the sharper trace of the deer could 
 be followed and, here and there, the big snow-shoe like foot 
 of the caribou had left its imprint, almost large enough to 
 have been made by the foot of an elephant. Besides this 
 northern section, which is the chief moose region, there is a 
 
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 !fine caribou and moose ground in the central eastern portion 
 •of the province south of the Miramichi River known as the 
 -Canaan Region, and a fair moose area is to be found south 
 of Miramichi Bay, partly in Northumberland County and 
 parti}' in Kent County. The red deer, however, has a much 
 wider distribution and follows less carefully the more deeply 
 wooded sections. It is to be found practically everywhere in 
 the province, in some places being so common as to be a 
 nuisance. The caribou country is practically coincident with 
 the moose country. The former animals are especially to be 
 found on the great barrens surrounding some of the wilder- 
 ness lakes. It is not to be supposed, however, that there 
 are a sufficient number of sportsmen who visit the province 
 to have any appreciable effect on the quantity of big game to 
 ~be found here. There is a license fee of thirty dollars for 
 ■shooting big game, payable by non-residents of the province; 
 those who ar& fortunate enough to reside in New Brunswick 
 having to pay only two dollars. Everything being considered, 
 New Brunswick stands today one of the finest big game 
 countries in the world, and a particular advantage in con- 
 nection with this is the fact that the best portions of the 
 game area are readily accessible. There are many excellent 
 and famous guides to be obtained, either Indians or white 
 men, whichever the choice may be. The majority of foreign 
 sportsmen who come to New Brunswick each season for the 
 big game shooting are Americans. Some idea of the num- 
 "ber who come to this province for this sport each year can be 
 obtained from the fact that in 1899 the returns from the 
 sales of licenses amounted to about $7,000. Supposing that 
 these licenses were all granted to non-residents of the pro- 
 vince, there would then be no less than 350 sportsmen after 
 big game in the season of 1899. Putting an outside estimate 
 on it, it is improbable that more than 25 of these came out 
 of the woods without something, (personally I don't know of 
 a single one who was disappointed) but, even allowing this 
 number, it will give a fair idea of the number of moose, cari- 
 bou and deer which must ream through the fine forests of 
 this portion of Canada. All information regarding moose 
 

.and caribou shooting- in the province can be obtained, either 
 •at Saint John or Fredericton, or for that matter all necessary 
 information can practically be gotten anywhere throughout 
 the province. As things are, moose and caribou are evid- 
 ently increasing in numbers, the new laws not having been 
 in force for any considerable period. 
 
 Of the small game to be found in the country, first in 
 importance ranks the Canada Goose. Closely following him 
 is the Branta Bernicla, a cousin, of somewhat smaller pro- 
 portions, esteemed by Sir Gaspard Le Marchaud, at one time 
 Governor of Prince Edward Island, the finest of allthe goose 
 family from a gastronomic point of view. 
 
 Following these in importance may be ranked the various 
 members of the duck family, which swarm on the rivers, 
 ■lakes and shores of the Province in their proper seasons, 
 headed by the world-famed dusky duck, one of the mallard 
 family, the king of all the Canadian game ducks. Next in 
 .importance rank the blue winged and green winged teal. 
 These beautiful little birds, the fastest flying of all the typi- 
 cal game ducks and having the most delicious flavor, in my 
 opinion, superior to that of the much vaunted canvas back, 
 are to be found often with the black duck in the inland waters 
 and especially in the marshy lakes throughout the whole 
 Province. There are agreat number of sea birds, and among 
 these many excellent game ducks which it would take a book 
 to describe. These come down in vast qi antities every 
 autumn from their breeding places and spend a considerable 
 period along the shores of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence and 
 the Bay of Fundy in their journey towards their southern 
 winter home, and again in the spring on their return journey 
 they are shot in great numbers. One of the most interest- 
 ing methods of obtaining these birds in the spring is em- 
 ployed both on the Bay of Fundy and Gulf Coasts. This is 
 in the use of so-called gun-boats or goose-boats, painted to 
 represent blocks of ice and moved about by revolving 
 ipaddles worked from within by the sportsmen. The number 
 of sea ducks to be found in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, or 
 .around the head waters of the Bay of Fundy, in the spring 
 
Nicholas Lolar, Malicete Indian guide, with grilse., 
 Restigouche River. 
 
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 and fall, can only be realized by sailing through those waters;: 
 any attempt at description would seem like nothing but an 
 exaggeration. (For description of brant and goose shoot- 
 ing, see Gloucester County), 
 
 The most prominent of the game birds to be found along 
 the shore are the Golden and Black Bellied Plover, and vari- 
 ous types of Sandpipers and the Yellow legs, together with 
 Turnstones, Sanderlings and occasional Godwit and a moder- 
 ate number of Curlew. Of these the finest game birds are 
 the two species of Plover mentioned. Formerly these were 
 found in very great quantities in the province, but of latter 
 years they have almost entirely disappeared, until within the 
 last year or two when they have re-appeared in moderate 
 numbers. Down in the autumn, with the first northerly 
 wind, they come, alighting along the sea shore and in old 
 pasture fields not fai from the water and excellent sport is 
 to be obtained among them. The sport, however, is now 
 very uncertain and not to be counted on. The greatest 
 numbers of these birds are now to be found around the 1 head 
 waters of the Bay of Fundy, where miles upon miles of flats, 
 furnishing great quantities of food, are laid bare with every 
 receding tide. Around these extreme head-waters of the Bay 
 are to be found, however, greater numbers of small shore 
 birds. Sandpipers, etc., during the fall migration, than, as far 
 as I can learn occur elsewhere in the world. I have spent 
 between two and three weeks in a camp near the largest of 
 the feeding grounds, studying these birds from an ornitho- 
 logical point of view and endeavoring to obtain photographs 
 of the immense flocks which feed on the bare mud flats. As 
 the tide rises the birds are forced up towards the land; the 
 distance between high and low water mark decreases from 
 between one and three miles down to the width of an ordin- 
 ary beach, perhaps twenty yards. Into this space are com- 
 pressed the vast numbers of birds which, when the tide was 
 low were scattered every few yards over the whole area of 
 flats, where the best class of food was to be found. The 
 result is that, at high water, the flocks are simply enormous, 
 and, though the birds are only a few inches in length, the 
 
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 .flocks can be seen at a distance ot three or tour miles. From 
 various calculations which I made carefully during the latter 
 part of the summer of 1898, I am safe in saying- that many of 
 these flocks contain between eight and ten thousand birds. 
 A shot from a single barrel of a ten bore gun has killed as 
 many as one hundred and twenty. These little birds shortly 
 after their arrival at the fine feeding ground on the Bay of 
 Fundy become as fat as butter and are very delicious, indeed, 
 when properly cooked, being equal to the best plover. 
 .Another somewhat larger bird that visits the head waters of 
 the bay in large numbers, though not with the absolute 
 regularity that do the Sandpipers, is the Jacksnipe. Some 
 seasons this bird, which frequents the marshes of dyke land, 
 is found in great numbers. 
 
 Turning our attention to land birds which may be con- 
 sidered under the head of game, we have also here an 
 interesting list, including the American Ruffled Grouse, 
 locally known as the Birch Partridge, the Canada Grouse, 
 whose local soubriquet is the Spruce Partridge, the American 
 Woodcock, a smaller bird than its English cousin, but which 
 gets up from a birch cover with the same whirring whiz, and 
 goes thundering over the tops ot the alders so quickly that it 
 seems impossible to bring him down; and last, but by no 
 means least, except in size, the Wilson's Snipe. The birch 
 partridge (so called) is found throughout the province in 
 every situation where a grouse can conveniently get, from a 
 vegetable garden to the centre of some wilderness area, 
 thirty miles from a house. It is a fine looking bird of ex- 
 cellent flavor and a hard flier. The spruce partridge is to be 
 found generally in low lands, especially where covered by a 
 heavy growth of spruce. This Canada grouse is a smaller 
 bird than the last, and compared with it a poor game bird. 
 It is not in the least shy and seems to look upon a man as a 
 sort of animated stump, hardly worth stepping out of the 
 -way of. I have stood at my horse's head on a wood road 
 .and shot five of these birds with a revolver, hardly moving 
 from my tracks, and I am not a particularly good revolver 
 shot either. That peculiar and erratic bird, the American 
 
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 Woodcock, is to be found in small numbers throughout 
 suitable covers in different parts of the province. A man 
 may consider himself very fortunate, if he gets four or five 
 brace of these birds, though some seasons they are much 
 more plentiful than usual. The Wilson's Snipe is to be 
 found in a great variety of places through New Brunswick. 
 Among the best of these are various sections of the river 
 valleys on the marshy portion of the intervals (see Queen's 
 County) and around certain lake regions, as, for instance, the 
 Jolicceur Lakes at the head of the Tantramar Marsh. This is- 
 supposed to be the finest snipe ground in the province. 
 Sometimes as many as fifty brace of birds have been obtained; 
 in a day, though this is a very extraordinary kill. There are 
 a considerable number of other game birds, which lack of space 
 forbids my mentioning, among them- are the Bittern, the 
 Scaup Duck, the Golden Eye Duck and a variety of others. 
 Those mentioned, however, are the chief game birds of New 
 Brunswick. The accounts given are from personal experience 
 and correct in as far as they go. 
 
 The most important of the game fish of the Province of 
 New Brunswick are the Salmon, (Salmo salar) and the various 
 varieties of trout, call them what you will (Salmo fontinalis 
 trutta, &c). These fish are too well known to need any 
 description. Excellent salmon fishing can be obtained in a 
 number of streams, while splendid sport is to be gotten on 
 the Restigouche, Nepisiquit, Tobique and other of the more 
 famous salmon rivers. Portions of these rivers are leased 
 by the Government and on these leased portions it is difficult 
 to obtain permits for salmon fishing. There are long- 
 stretches, however, which may be fished by any angler not 
 belonging to the clubs who lease the other pools, and here 
 fine sport may be obtained. With trout, however, the case 
 is very different ; they swarm in every stream, river and lake- 
 and unsurpassed trout fishing is to be obtained in the season. 
 Permits may be gotten for trout fishing, even in the leased 
 portions of the salmon streams. These are generally to be 
 obtained from a gentleman in charge of the interests of the 
 various clubs. As far as trout fishing is concerned, however, 
 
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 this is a unnecessary formality, as throughout the whole- 
 Province stretches mile upon mile of the finest trout water, 
 stream and lake. The Green River in Madawaska County, 
 the upper stretches of the Restigouche, the smaller streams of 
 the Miramichi, Trout Lake near the South-west Miramichi, 
 the Canaan River, and a host of others. Wherever you may 
 be in the Province, it is necessary to go but a very few miles 
 to enjoy the best sport. In the Northern Rivers the trout 
 run to a very large size, specimens having been taken quite 
 frequently up to between six and seven pounds. A trout 
 weighing from three to tour pounds is not uncommon, some 
 streams furnishing fish that run but little below this weight 
 as a rule, while fish from a pound to two pounds and a half 
 can be obtained in many sections of the Province. The 
 supply is unlimited and the area so great that such a con- 
 tingency as being necessarily interfered with by other 
 fishermen is unknown. A canoe cruise in search of the 
 speckled beauties on any of the lovely streams flowing 
 through the Province when taken in the early summer when 
 everything is wild flowers and green leaves, not however, 
 without the other invariable accompaniments of summer, the 
 black fly and festive mosquito, is indeed an experience which 
 will be thoroughly enjoyed and never fade from the memory 
 of the sportsman or the lover of nature as long as life re- 
 mains. A little publication giving the best regions for big 
 game, birds and fishing in the Province is published by the- 
 Provincial Government and is entitled, "Gun and Rod in 
 New Brunswick." This pamphlet can be obtained for the- 
 asking and will give much more information than one can 
 attempt to embody in a work of this type. 
 
 ST JOHN. 
 
 The City of St. John, the winter port of Canada, lies on 
 a magnificent harbour on the north shore of the Bay of 
 Fundy, at the mouth ot the noble St. John River. It is a. 
 city of about 50,000 inhabitants, notable in a variety of ways. 
 
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lit is situated on a rocky foundation, the original city lying on 
 a point which stretches out into the harbour. On the east 
 of this point lies Courtney Bay, an extensive but shallow 
 head-water, while to the west, where flows in the river, lies 
 the harbour proper, one of the finest in the world. With 
 deep water everywhere capable of floating the largest vessels 
 at all times of the tide, with a wharf area rapidly increasing, 
 the position of St. John, regarding its harbour facilities, is 
 an enviable one. 
 
 As the purpose of this work has been to explore the 
 natural rather than the artificial resources of the province, I 
 shall not attempt to occupy space in giving a description of 
 the city itself; this would necessitate considerable time and 
 much thought if the description was to do justice to this 
 beautiful city. 
 
 As one approaches the harbour of St. John, there is not 
 a single dangerous reef or badly placed bar to render naviga- 
 tion difficult. Steamer captains who have never before been 
 in the port, proceed with perfect confidence without a pilot 
 even in thick weather, and this can be said of very few ports 
 in the world. As one sails into the port, on one of those 
 absolutely clear summer days, for which the province is 
 noted, the sight that presents itself is indeed a beautiful one. 
 Before the entrance to the harbour mouth is reached, the 
 shores of the Bay of Fundy are seen stretching away in both 
 directions, rising to considerable heights on the north. The 
 one thing that impresses a person with an eye to things 
 military is the ease with which St. John could be strongly 
 fortified. It simply presents a series of natural fortifications 
 of the most improved modern type, outside the harbour, 
 really, the two head-lands which with Partridge Island 
 between, form the mouth,, cross from busy Fort Dufferin on 
 the left, and Red Head on the right; both high commanding 
 banks, ideally situated for mounting heavy guns. Fort 
 Dufferin at present mounts a few guns of rather antiquated 
 design, which are necessarily not particularly serviceable, 
 except for target practice. Between these two and a little 
 further up the harbour lies Partridge Island, with the situated 
 
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 'light-house and Fog whistle. Here is another situation which, 
 from a military point of view, commands the mouth of the 
 harbour. Again some distance further up the harbour, away 
 over the houses of West St. John on a high ridge stands the 
 Martello Tower, marking an ideal situation for another bat- 
 tery, which could rock the harbour from mouth to head, and 
 the bay out for many miles. Here also one or two anti- 
 quated guns are mounted, which like the others could be of 
 little service. On the extreme end of the point on which the 
 city is built, which reaches down neaYly two-thirds the length 
 of the harbour, lies another ancient batter} - on Battery Point, 
 a low-lying point which would offer itself well for the placing 
 of disappearing guns. Away at the head of the harbour on 
 a high limestone ridge lies Fort Howe with a few more of 
 the same old type of guns found in the other positions The 
 last two command to perfection the channels on both sides of 
 Partridge Island. All" these batteries are practically worth- 
 less, but the possibilities regarding the fortification of St. 
 John are unsurpassed. 
 
 But to return to the impressions that present themselves 
 to one not looking at the city from a military point of view: 
 Before reaching Partridge Island on the left rise the green 
 grassy slopes leading up to Fort Duflferin where floats the 
 Union Jack as staunchly supported here as elsewhere in the 
 empire, while the west of the left across the broad mouth of 
 Courtney Bay, rise the brilliant, brownish red banks of Red 
 Head, and beyond to the north on both sides of the harbor 
 rise the numerous spires, great brick chimneys and prominent 
 grain elevators that indicate the position of the city of St. 
 John. 
 
 As we proceed up stream, the full appreciation of the 
 beauties of the situation come home to us. On the left 
 stretches that part of the city known as West St. John, while 
 on the right from the battery back to where Reed's Castle 
 stands out from among the trees on the top of Mount 
 Pleasant, lies the city proper. The most prominent objects 
 on the lett or western shore are the great grain elevators at 
 Sand Point, the Atlantic terminus of the Canadian Pacific 
 
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 Railway. These elevators are capable of holding no less 
 than a million bushel and stand in the center of a fine set of 
 steamboat berths; below them on each side stretch the long, 
 flat freight sheds, while along the wharves lie steamers of 
 various lines carrying produce for the most part to Great 
 Britain. Wharf after wharf succeeds this terminus on the 
 left bank, and as we proceed further up the harbour, we pass 
 steamers and sailing vessels from every port anchored in mid 
 stream. The majority of them show the well known funnels 
 of the prominent English firms. Beside them lie scows 
 carrying thousands of feet of lumber which is rapidly being 
 loaded on the right bank; almost opposite the Sand Point 
 terminal lies the lower terminal of the Intercolonial Railway 
 of Canada; the main terminal lying near the head of the 
 harbour where is situated the great grain elevator, recently 
 put up by the Dominion Government. Along the whole east 
 shore of the harbor, and around to the north lie the chief 
 wharves of the port at which are also to be found steamers 
 and sailing vessels. In the vicinity of Reed's Point are 
 situated the termini of various coastal lines of steamers, 
 some running across the Bay to the adjoining province of 
 Nova Scotia, and some south along the coast to American 
 ports, notably Boston. The International Steamship Com- 
 pany operates a line of wooden paddle steamers and one 
 wooden single screw boat, the St. Croix, between St. John 
 and Boston. This company has been long in existence and 
 has done a large carrying trade always. Within the last few 
 years the Dominion Atlantic Railway Company which origin- 
 ally ran their boats between Boston and Yarmouth, Nova 
 Scotia, have now put boats on two lines running out of St. 
 John; the St. John and Digby, Nova Scotia, route, and the St. 
 John and Boston. The steamers put on by this company are 
 a credit to the country. They are very much the finest boats 
 in the coastal service on the western hemisphere. They are 
 all twenty knot boats and are fitted up superbly. Between 
 St. John and Digby runs the Prince Rupert, a paddle steamer 
 that "swings a wickeder wheel" than any paddle boat 
 running around the coast of the continent, and does the 
 
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 forty-two miles from St. John to Dig-by in a little over two 
 hour's. Among- the various boats which have been put on the 
 Boston route by this company are the Prince Edward, Prince 
 George and the Prince Arthur. These are magnificent twin 
 screw steamers of which the province is proud and justly so; 
 no finer boats have ever been turned out of British ship-yards 
 and the service in which these play such an important part 
 is rapidly increasing-. 
 
 The City of St. John as such, is partly on account of its 
 commanding situation and partly because of the many fine 
 buildings, most imposing as one enters the harbour. Far 
 down on the Batterv Point is situated the large Exhibition 
 building where each year are held international exhibitions, 
 and half way up the water front in the city proper on the 
 East side of the harbour stands the fine stone Custom House, 
 unsurpassed by any building on the Continent devoted to the 
 same purpose. One is immediately struck with the number 
 of church spires to be seen on both sides of the harbour. 
 The city has the credit of having the finest churches of any 
 city in the world of its size. They are, for the most part, 
 fine stone or brick structures of excellent design and tasteful 
 decoration. Among the finest are Centenary Church, com- 
 manding the highest position of the city; one of the best 
 examples of ecclesiastical architecture on the Continent. 
 The leading Church of England of the city, from whose 
 tall spire rings out a beautiful set of chimes, is another 
 of the edifices to be proud of. The Roman Catholic Cathe- 
 dral, facing on Richmond Street, the seat of the Bishop of 
 the diocese of St. John, is a handsome structure, likethe first 
 two, constructed of freestone and situated on a prominent 
 ridge some distance back from the water. Besides these 
 there are many other notable edifices. 
 
 The business streets are broad and well cared for, paved 
 and presenting a most modern appearance. In 1877 St. 
 John was swept by a great fire, and from its ashes arose a 
 new city ; new in ideals, new in plan and still more new in 
 appearance. The first was an old-fashioned town of wooden 
 structures, the second, as it exists today is a modern, 
 
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 ihustling, thriving, progressive city, with electric cars, gas 
 •and electric light and possessing in a word, every advantage 
 to be found in any moderate sized city. 
 
 To give any idea of the export trade of St. John, would 
 occupy more space than I can afford, but all varieties of pro- 
 duce are shipped in great quantities. To give a faint con- 
 ception of the great lumber trade carried on at St. John, let 
 me give the number of superficial feet of deals and so forth 
 .exported for the three years, 1895, 1896, 1897, and 
 this includes only those exported to transatlantic ports, a 
 considerable quantity having gone in a coastward direction. 
 In 1895 there were exported to transatlantic ports 129,426,- 
 ■948 superficial teet; in 1896, this had gone up to 168,059,- 
 970, while in 1897, the amount had increased to 245,539,358, 
 .making St. John one of the largest shipping ports in the 
 world. The transportation of this lumber to St. John is 
 ■rendered easy by the thoroughness with which the Interco- 
 lonial Railway and Canadian Pacific Railway tap various 
 portions of the Province. This is usually true in the case 
 -of hard-wood, large quantities of which are shipped by the 
 rail; the various water ways have much to do with the ease 
 with which spruce lumber reaches the city. In the immedi- 
 ate vicinity are many points of interest to the traveller; one 
 -of theseis the remarkable reversible falls found at the mouth 
 .of the river. "Here the water rushes through a narrow gorge 
 out into the harbour which lies on the Bay of Fundy, and is 
 .effected by its high tides. The tide in the Bay of Fundy 
 rises higher than the lower levels of the River St. John, the 
 .result being that, though at low water, the stream rushes 
 ■outward through the gorge; at high water it rushes almost 
 -as fearlessly inward, rendering a passage from harbour to 
 ■harbour impossible at this period in the tide. Vessels can 
 pass through readily, however, at slack water. This is but 
 •one of the many points of unusual interest to the traveller to 
 be found in the vicinity of St- John. 
 
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 THE KENNEBECAS1S VALLEY. 
 
 The Kennebecasis River is a very remarkable back-water,, 
 emptying into the St. John River but a short distance from 
 the city of St. John itself. It opens in on the east side of 
 the above mentioned river, flowing. down from a northeaster- 
 ly direction, its head-waters coming trom a ridge down the 
 other or northeast side of which flows the Petitcodiac River 
 system to the head-waters of the Bay of Fundy. The valley 
 of the last mentioned river, on account ot the high tide of the 
 head waters of the Bay of Fundy, shows a great deal of dike- 
 land formation, while the former river, which is, in compari- 
 son, very little affected by the tides, shows none of the long 
 silted prairies we found in the other river valley. It is hardly 
 just to call the Kennebecasis a river in the strict sense of the 
 word; it is rather a drowned valley into which a few small 
 streams flow. Though 'only some eighty miles in length to 
 its head-waters, near its mouth it is, in places, three miles or 
 more in width, and attains a depth of nearly two hundred 
 feet. Its shores near the mouth, especially on the north 
 side, are high and rugged and wonderfully picturesque. It 
 is dotted with islands, some of them several square miles in 
 area, and forms a beautiful basin for boating and aquatic 
 sports generally. There are courses that can be marked out 
 along the lower stretches of this so-called river, which it 
 would be hard to equal in the world, for shell racing. 
 
 One of the most beautiful sails in New Brunswick, is to 
 take a steamer from St. John and spend the day winding in 
 and out through the Kennebecasis until Hampton is reached, 
 which is only twenty miles from St. John by rail. A few 
 miles from St. John, after crossing the boundary into Kings 
 county, Rothesay and Riverside, two beautiful little stations 
 situated on the shores of the Kennebecasis are reached. 
 Though only twenty minutes ride from the city, these places 
 are both situated on the great inland basin and are rapidly 
 becoming the favorite summer resort of peoplejiving in the 
 city. 
 
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 As we proceed up the valley, several stations are passed 
 of which the names sound rather peculiarly to ears unaccus- 
 tomed to them. Quispamsis and Nauwigewaak are two 
 which come under this classification. 
 
 One has but to travel fifteen or twenty miles along; the 
 Intercolonial Railway in an easterly direction from St. John, 
 to note the remarkable change that comes over the country. 
 By the time that Nauwigewaak is reached, the Laurentian 
 .and Cambrian systems have disappeared with their lime 
 quarries and quaint lime kilns, and the rugged scenery of 
 the lower Kennebecasis has been replaced by as typical first- 
 class farming land as can be found anywhere. The railway 
 follows the course of the river, and, as one travels through 
 the country near harvest time, on every hand over the gradu- 
 ally sloping hills stretch away fields of grain, with here and 
 there the green patch where some root crop shows to advan- 
 tage. The railway itself winds along the edge of the beauti- 
 ful interval land found throughout the whole ot the upper 
 portion of the valley of the river, as is also the case around 
 all the lower tributaries and inlets of both this stream and the 
 main St. John. Along the valley of the latter river the inter- 
 val land is one of the chief sources of wealth to the farmers. 
 The greater portion of this interval land, wherever found 
 throughout the province, is practically self-sustaining, as is 
 the case with the marshes influenced by the tides of the Bay 
 of Fundy. In the latter instance, however, the tide is the 
 agency through which the natural manuring is carried on, 
 while in the case of the intervals, the floods which deposit 
 the ever-renewed fertile coating, as surely as the spring 
 comes round, are caused by the rapid melting of the snows 
 under the influence of the warm spring sunlight; the result 
 being that every river is swollen and muddy, and rushing 
 down from above overflows the great stretches of alluvial 
 soil below, and there moves so slowly as to deposit the soil 
 which it has cut from tjie steeper banks of the river valley 
 far up stream. 
 
 Though the upland in the Kennebecasis valley is of 
 excellent quality, it does not equal that of Carleton County, 
 
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 or that great undeveloped stretch of Silurian land found in 
 Madawaska, Victoria and Restigouche Counties. From 
 Quispamsis up to the extreme head-waters of Stone's Brook, 
 which itself is the head-water of the Kennebecasis river, the 
 valley is wonderfully fertile, and forms one of the finest 
 farming communities in the province. 
 
 Along the line of railway, besides the stations mentioned 
 before are situated Lakeside, Hampton, Passakeag, Bloom- 
 field, Norton, Apohaqui, Sussex, Plumweseep and Penobsquis. 
 Sussex and Hampton are the two largest towns in the valley; 
 and the former of these may be considered as typical of the 
 finest tarming sections of this portion of the province. 
 Several secondary valleys run oft' trom the main Kennebecasis 
 valley; among these are the Mill Stream which connects 
 with the Kennebecasis at Apohaqui, and Smith's Creek and 
 Trout Creek converging to the same river at Sussex, 
 together with several smaller and less important valleys each 
 with its brook. 
 
 The Town of Sussex, situated on slightly rising ground 
 on the South side of the Kennebecasis river, the stream here 
 being bur comparatively small, is as typical a farming centre, 
 probably, as can be found anywhere in the world. From the 
 hills on either side of the valley, the town with its white 
 houses and numerous church spires, shows up to good ad- 
 vantage, nestling among the trees that here form such a 
 beautiful feature of one of the finest landscapes of the type 
 that can be imagined. From the Knoll, as one of the hills 
 back of the town is called, the roads can be seen radiating 
 in every direction ; some cross the intervals, and some run 
 over rising ground into the nearby valleys, and everywhere 
 lined and shaded by enormous trees. Over the whole inter- 
 val, wherever we look, are dotted the elms, the most promin- 
 ent feature of interval scenery throughout the Province. 
 The greater number of these trees are the American elm, a 
 tree which attains somewhat greater height than does its 
 British cousin, and is fully as graceful. Some of them stand 
 alone, while others form picturesque groups, scattered ap- 
 parently irregularly throughout the intervals while the course 
 
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 of the river itself, and every side stream, is marked by a 
 fringe of these trees. 
 
 For the growth of hay no finer land can be found than, 
 the alluvial soil that makes these valleys what they are. The 
 result is that there is every inducement for extensive stock- 
 raising, both for meat supply and for dairying purposes. 
 Unfortunately, up to the present time, but very little 
 attention has been paid to raising either beef or mutton for 
 the market; anything that has been attempted, having been 
 done in a rather desultory manner, and with only moderately 
 good results as must necessarily be the case with things of 
 the sort attempted in a half-hearted way. Until only a very 
 few years ago, practically the same thing could be said re- 
 garding the dairying industry. It was not until 1891 that 
 any considerable attention was given to this industry by the 
 Government. Before that time anything that was done, was 
 done privately, and, as is usually the case under such con- 
 ditions, was not done scientifically. The Government, then 
 realizing the importance which the industry was ultimately 
 to attain, took several steps, which were calculated to put 
 the work on a better footing; as indicated elsewhere, the 
 result was that a great number of butter and cheese factories 
 were established, and that number is increasing with marvel- 
 lous rapidity. Nowhere in the Province have progressive 
 dairying methods been taken to more kindly than in this por- 
 tion of Kings County, and, as one Sussex farmer recently 
 said, "Sussex may be considered the Hub of the dairying 
 industry in the Province of New Brunswick." 
 
 With the country as conveniently situated, with relation 
 to the British market, and with the climate as ideally adapted; 
 to dairying, the possibilities of this branch of farming in the 
 Province, as indicated from the results that have been 
 obtained in Sussex alone, are simply enormous. 
 
 Just in the town, and liberally patronized by nearly all 
 the farmers within easy reach, is the Provincial Dairy School. 
 This institution, one of the finest butter and cheese factories 
 in Canada, has done a great deal to educate the farmer to 
 the proper methods. Every ounce of milk which is bought 
 
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51 
 
 is tested for the amount of butter fat it contains, and the 
 farmer paid according to the quality of his milk. 
 
 The products which this institution turns out, under the 
 direction of expert butter and cheese makers, are, in their 
 class, unexcelled. Practically all supplies and implements 
 which are needed by the farmer can be obtained in the town, 
 the tradesman catering- especially, as must necessarily be the 
 case, to the wants of the tillers of the soil. 
 
 The town itself is improving- rapidly, many of the 
 wooden buildings in the business section being replaced by 
 brick or stone structures. The dwelling houses, however, 
 are practially all of wood, as is the case so frequently in New 
 Brunswick, the cause of which is the cheapness of that 
 material. 
 
 Another aid to the farmer is the "Co-operative Farmer" 
 a newspaper published in Sussex, and devoted to the inter- 
 ests of farming in the Province. 
 
 To form any idea of the really splendid quality of the- 
 farm lands in this vicinity, it will be necessary to drive some 
 distance both up and down the main valley, and also into 
 some of the side valleys. The drive leaving Sussex and 
 starting across the interval in a westerly direction, is one 
 which will soon help one to get a good conception of the 
 quality of farms throughout the valley. No sooner is the- 
 town left behind, though no strict line of demarkation 
 except the legal one exists, than the interval stretches away 
 for miles down river, bounded on each side by the gentle- 
 slope of the hills which, as far as can be seen, are almost 
 fully under cultivation. The road leads to the river and' 
 finally crosses it at a picturesque .point, several fine farms 
 being met with before the river is reached. Immediately on.' 
 crossing the bridge, a solid looking- brick house is reached,, 
 with a cluster of barns, and all shaded by big elms and wil- 
 lows. Mr Jesse Prescott, the gentleman who owns the 
 farm on which this house is situated keeps between fifty and 1 
 sixty milch cows, this being one of the largest herds in this 
 part of the country, and bringing in a very considerable in- 
 come to their owner. Another excellent farm as we drive 
 
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 down the valley, directly abuts on this, and beyond this 
 another, and so on, without the interruption of any uncleared 
 area for many miles. The farms are all comparatively large 
 in this section, varying' from perhaps eighty acres to five or 
 six hundred or larger. 
 
 Naturally the finest time of year to get a good idea of the 
 crops, is just as the hay is being harvested, about the 
 middle of August. From everywhere comes the sound of the 
 mowing machine, and wherever one looks there is hay; ha)' 
 standing, hay in windrows, hay in cocks. Now on the left, 
 two mowing machines are working their way over some big 
 field on the interval, while beyond, a tedder, driven by a 
 small boy, goes clicking its way, sending a cloud of half- 
 dried grass into the air behind it. Here a' more experienced 
 individual with an able horse, whose coat glistens under the 
 influence of good feed, is using a rake, while farther on a pair 
 of stout looking shires drag a creaking, rattling hay cart, 
 half-filled with sweet smelling grass, into a position where 
 more cocks are thrown on. 
 
 On the places of the less fortunate farmers, who do not 
 possess tedders, the whole family is out, each with a fork 
 turning over the fragrant grass that has fallen but a littie 
 while before. Here and there the stretch of hay is interrupt- 
 ed by a patch of twelve or fifteen acres of oats, rapidly ripen- 
 ing under the influence of the August sunlight, and beyond 
 again, the more brilliant green of a dozen acres of buck- 
 wheat shows up to advantage. On the right of the road the 
 land rises, and farm-house after farm-house is passed as one 
 drives along. Now a patch of carrots alternating with per- 
 haps a few acres of turnips and these again with some other 
 roots or vegetables, all of which seem to thrive splendidly in 
 this natural garden. Here and there a young orchard will 
 form a prominent feature of some farm. 
 
 Apple raising, or for that matter, fruit raising of any 
 sort, has been very much neglected in the Kennebecasis 
 Valley, and it is only within the last few years that this most 
 important and lucrative branch of farming has received any 
 attention. 
 
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 I remember speaking; not long since to Mr. Sharp, of 
 Woodstock, Carleton County, regarding- the possibilities of 
 apple-raising throughout the region around Sussex, for that 
 matter, throughout the valley, and he stated that, in his 
 opinion, this portion of the country was very much better 
 adapted to raising apples in large quantities and of excellent 
 flavor, than was the section where he has achieved his 
 triumphs in the same line. As Mr. Sharp is the possessor ot 
 many thousands of trees, which annually produce many thou- 
 sand barrels of apples, his opinion in this matter must, of 
 necessity, have great weight. It is an axiom that nowhere 
 an the world can finer apples be raised than in this Province, 
 and with the unlimited market which can always be found for 
 ■first-class fruit, it should become a large and paying industry, 
 as things are now, it is a neglected one. 
 
 The kind of country described above is not localized, but 
 extends through practically the whole of this valley, and the 
 side valleys which run into it. It is to be expected that some 
 portions of the land would not be as highly fertile as are 
 some others, but the interval land will run very near a gen- 
 eral average, none of the intervals showing any marked 
 deterioration through absolute neglect. In taking the aver- 
 ages published by the Department of Agriculture, it must be 
 remembered that these are the bases for the very conserva- 
 tive estimates of what the land is capable of doing. These 
 averages are, of course, affected very materially by the mis- 
 takes of ever) - careless, ignorant or unscientific farmer; 
 these facts, of course, tending to cut the average down very 
 considerably. 
 
 In the report of the Department of Agriculture for 1898, 
 it was stated, for instance, that of 3837 acres of land planted 
 in potatoes, in Kings County, the yield was 433,695 bushels, 
 .giving an average of onlv 1 13 bushels to the acre. This, of 
 course, may be considered remarkably low. In the case of 
 buckwheat, from .11,220 acres planted in Kings County 
 232,945 bushels were obtained, giving an average of 20.7 
 bushels to the acre; this, again may be considered very low 
 for the Countv. In the case of barlev, from 288 acres 
 
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 planted, 5,883 bushels were obtained, an average ot 20.4 to 
 the acre. Oats, from 14,755 acres were obtained 347,041 
 bushels, an average of 23.5 bushels per acre. From 793 acres 
 of wheat, were obtained 10,098 bushels, an average of only 
 12.7 bushels per acre, while St. John Connty gave an average 
 of 22 bushels per acre in the same year. This average was 
 probably due more to intelligent farming than to any other 
 cause. 
 
 All these returns, as indicated in the report, are re- 
 markably low, compared with what is considered a good crop 
 by the best class of farmers. For instance, 30 bushels of 
 wheat to the acre is considered an excellent crop, as is 60 
 bushels ot oats, and other things in the same proportion. 
 In the case of roots, from 800 to 1,000 bushels of turnips 
 is not considered extraordinary, though this is decidedly 
 above an average crop. Again, all through this portion of 
 the country, as, for that matter, is the case with other parts 
 of the Province, many other classes of produce for which there 
 is an excellent and a steady market, are to a great extent, 
 if not wholly, neglected. Take, for instance, the case of 
 small fruits; these are neglected almost entirely. Vegetables 
 such as salsify, Brussels sprouts, kohl rabi, chives, 
 cabbage, cauliflower, tomatoes, parsnips, and their like 
 are only raised in sufficient qualities for domestic use, 
 though even the most delicate of them, with a little care 
 mature perfectly in this favored situation. It would seem 
 that there must be some well defined reasons for the lack of 
 enterprise which has been exhibited in matters of the sort, and 
 undoubtedly they are. One of them, applicable everywhere 
 in this country as in others, is the fact that the majority of 
 farmers have been slow to realize that, like everything else, 
 farming is a profession in which a man needs as thorough 
 training as in any other. Another reason is the fact that 
 living is here so easy ; a man having but to cut his hay and 
 to sell it to eke out an existence, if such can be called living. 
 This tended to create a dolce jar niente, which has had too 
 potent an influence. A third factor that may have been in- 
 strumental in damping a farmer's ideas as far as elaborate 
 

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 work is concerned, is, that the market has, on account of the 
 high protection in the United States to a great extent, and 
 the comparatively limited character of the local market, not 
 been sufficiently large to warrant operations on a more ex- 
 tensive scale than he had previously undertaken them. Now, 
 however, things have changed, and the British market is 
 virtually becoming closer every day, as finer lines of steam- 
 ships are being put on the route between British ports and 
 St. John, N. B. 
 
 The Kennebecasis valley is especially well situated for 
 raising produce in large quantities for the British market. 
 Through its whole length, with numerous stations, runs the 
 Intercolonial Railway, with many trains a day passing in both 
 directions. Sussex is but forty miles from St. John, a little 
 over an hour's run under ordinary circumstances and includ- 
 ing stops. This being the case, it can be readily seen that 
 shipment of produce could nowhere be carried on more 
 readily, but a single change being necessary after it is placed 
 on the car. 
 
 Let us now look a little more closely at the conditions 
 as they actually pre^nt themselves in this section of the 
 country. Again leaving Sussex, let us drive, we will say, 
 in an easterly direction up the valley. As soon in this case, 
 as we strike the limits of the town, the same panorama of 
 farms stretches before us as when driving in the opposite 
 direction. This, however, is true irrespective of the road 
 you take. Now we will come to a farm-house, set well back 
 from the road and surrounded by willows, elms, butternuts 
 and one or two other varieties of shade and ornamental trees. 
 Here and there a few Lombardy poplars will suggest some 
 parts of France, and again the thick, wavy-edged leaves of 
 the oak recalls another country very much dearer to the 
 Canadian. English and Canadian oaks here grow side by 
 side; an elm or two, with an occasional willow will stand out 
 in the centre of some great field ot oats, that by the middle 
 •of August, is yellowing at the approach of harvest time. 
 Beyond them, again, are fifteen or twenty acres of land, from 
 which the hay has been cut, and which is now covered with 
 
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 a luxuriant growth of clover after-feed; and now another 
 farm-house, this one perched on a little eminence, and sur- 
 rounded entirely by Lombardy poplars. Sloping away from, 
 its front, is a few acres of wheat, on the other side of which 
 a field of carrots and turnips is to be seen with three or four 
 acres of corn for the silo. Just inside the fence, and running 
 along near the road for three or four hundred feet, lies a 
 patch of squash and pumpkins, these part for fodder and part 
 for domestic use. Passing these, on the day I have in mind 
 we came to afield of oats, which showed up remarkably well, 
 so well that I got my assistant to stand in them while I got 
 a photograph to give some idea of their height. A few days 
 after, when we traversed the same ground, the reaper was at 
 work, and the oats lay thick on the ground in one part of the 
 field, while in another, they were up in stooks. Later we 
 came to a patch of wheat, which was especially fine, and of 
 which I also got a photograph. The wheat of which I am 
 now thinking, I afterwards learned, thrashed about thirty 
 bushels to the acre, and from this patch came part of New 
 Brunswick's contribution to the Paris exhibition. 
 
 We drive on through scenes of this sort, until, near the 
 road, puffing white jets of steam into the clear August sun- 
 light, we come to a cheese factory which is struggling with 
 the products of half a thousand cows, endeavouring to get 
 through before the lot of the next day comes in. Now, more 
 fields of oats and then one of barley, and again, more Indian 
 corn. We round a bend in the road and come on a comfort- 
 able looking homestead, from behind which slopes down an 
 orchard of a thousand or more young apple trees. Some 
 questions put to the owner, who exhibits a pardonable pride 
 in them, showed that they were but five years old and all 
 giving a considerable yield. Several different varieties are 
 represented; King of Tomkins Co., New Brunswicker, and a 
 few of the ancient favourites from the grower's point of view, 
 but more or less worthless Ben Davis, which, as the owner 
 said, were a great success as a selling apple, insomuch as- 
 they would keep for all time, and could be sold for a hand- 
 some price, when no other apple was obtainable. "But"' 
 
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 he said, "personally I should prefer going without any; but 
 still, if people have a taste for dried sponges dipped in a little- 
 vinegar and water, why I should be the last one not to allow 
 them to have them." This was not a compliment to the Ben 
 Davis as an eating apple, but, as the gentleman said, a few- 
 barrels of them were always a great financial success. Then 
 there were other apples with very different reputations and 
 also very different flavours. There were a moderate number 
 of thriving specimens of that king of all apples, the Graven- 
 stein, which probably a little care would succeed in raising 
 as satisfactorily in New Brunswick as anywhere else, despite- 
 some assertions to the contrary. 
 
 From here we drove on and took a road that would 
 ultimately lead us back to Sussex; and now comes a change 
 of scene. From the right side of the road, stretches a field 
 of perhaps twenty acres, from which the hay has been cut, 
 and on which a good after-feed has been developed. Here 
 thirty or forty cattle are eating; some lying under the big 
 elm trees or complacently switching their tails and chewing 
 their cuds; others are moving around to find the spots where- 
 the grass is the tenderest, and still others are standing knee- 
 deep in a brook that flows through the field, and beneath 
 the cool shade of some willow, are switching away the flies. 
 The majority of them are Ayrshires, and fine looking cattle 
 they are, with here and there a number of Holsteins and an 
 occasional Jersey. 
 
 Probably nowhere in the world can more ideal condi- 
 tions for successfully raising cattle be found than this very 
 section that we are now studying. One of the best illustra- 
 trations of this can be seen in, for instance, the quantity of 
 maize that can be readily raised in New Brunswick. 
 
 I stopped one day near Sussex and took a picture of 
 what I considered a typical row of fodder corn. The variety 
 was Pierce Prolific, and the average yield, according to the 
 proprietor of the farm, was fifteen tons per acre. This, of 
 course makes an excellent element in first-class ensilage. 
 
 Several men, whose farms I visited, had herds of from 
 thirty to forty milch cows, from which they would take inv 
 
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 perhaps trom 700 to 800 pounds of milk a day to the Pro- 
 vincial Dairy School. 
 
 With well-built barns, calculated to keep the cattle warm 
 during the New Brunswick winter, which is very consider- 
 ably colder than is that ot England, there is no difficulty in 
 keeping the cows in splendid condition throughout the year. 
 It may be as well to say in passing, that very little 
 indeed in the way of raising sheep or hogs is done in the 
 Kennebecasis valley, though, of course, the advantages for 
 this branch of farming can also be readily appreciated. 
 
 THE PROVINCIAL DAIRY SCHOOL, 
 
 To one who wishes to get a fair idea of the extent to 
 which the dairy industry, in this particular section has ex- 
 panded in the last few years, and also to obtain a look at 
 some of the farmers from the surrounding country, it is only 
 necessary to turn up at the Provincial Dairy School between 
 daylight and sunrise on some fine summer morning. Perhaps 
 before the first rays of the sun have shot over the uplands, 
 clearing the land fogs out of the little valleys and lighting 
 up the feathery elm trees, the first of the long line of wag- 
 gons, which bring the milk from every direction in the 
 surrounding country, will come clattering down the road, 
 with five or six big cans of milk in behind, and will wheel in 
 under the portico and up to the door where the milk is taken 
 in and where the scales are situated; and almost simultane- 
 ously with the arrival of the first waggon, the hum of the 
 engines inside will start, accompanied by the whiz of the 
 separators. In a few minutes, waggons will be seen coming 
 from every direction, and inside the Dairy School, everything 
 will spring into activity. The big cans are passed in and 
 weighed, and then out and into the waggon again, and the 
 man drives around to another door to get his skim-milk and 
 take it off home with him. 
 
 Sturdy, sun-burnt, strong looking men they are, with the 
 healthfulness engendered of the Northern climate, with its 
 
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 ■sparkling, clear, cold winters, and' its summers full of fresh- 
 ness and free from malaria. They are unlike Americans; 
 they are unlike Englishmen; they are a distinct type, larger 
 then either the former or the latter, temperate, for the most 
 part industrious, and normally God-fearing. Throughout 
 the Maritime Provinces the farmers are hospitable, and as a 
 rule, generous. 
 
 In a little while, as we wait, a long row of waggons 
 turn up with their cans of milk, and their respective owners 
 are busy conversing about crop prospects, yacht-racing, 
 horse-racing, or any other subject of local or international 
 interest that may be afloat. The average New Brunswick 
 farmer is intelligent, and, I am thankful to say, becoming 
 more so as time goes on and that rapidly. He is a great news- 
 paper reader, and takes a keen interest in things both across 
 the water and across the border, as well as in his own country. 
 
 In a little time the row of waggons extends three- 
 quarters of the way around the building, covers part of the 
 spacious yard in front of the factory, and the last arrivals 
 occupy positions in the procession which reaches well out into 
 the street beyond. By this time the early birds are getting 
 their cans filled with skim-milk, and are starting again on 
 their way towards home, with the sun hardly half an hour 
 up. Finally, by between eight and nine o'clock the last team 
 is gone, the milk is all skimmed and the creamery is running 
 full blast, with jets of steam puffing out of different orifices, 
 from the churns, and so forth. 
 
 To give some idea ot a representative New Brunswick 
 factory, I herewith give a few selected portions from the 
 description given of . the Provincial Dairy School, in the 
 report of the Department of Agriculture of the Province for 
 1898. Since then such extensive changes and alterations 
 have been made, that the description no longer applies, for 
 in the interim a cheese-making plant has been installed, and 
 the capacity of the factory generally, very much increased: 
 
 "In the winter of 1893-94 a few young; men visited the Dominion 
 Winter Dairy Station in Sussex, for the purpose of getting some insig-ht 
 intc the factory butter-making- business, then being" introduced in the 
 
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 Maritime Provinces. The following- winter there was a further demand) 
 for information, and Prof. J. \V. Robertson, Dominion Dairy Commis- 
 sioner, arranged that instruction should be given in the Sussex factory 
 during a portion of March and April, 1895. The instructors were, — 
 J. E. Hopkins, W, W. Hubbard and L. A. Zufelt, all of the Dominion 
 Dairy staff. Some fifty students attended the school. 
 
 "In 1896 the school was again re-opened with the same instructors- 
 and Messrs. John Robertson and Harvey Mitchell of the Provincial 
 Dairy Department. The Provincial Government also encouraged the 
 attendance of students from outside of Kings County, by paying half of 
 their travelling expenses. This year the number of students increased! 
 somewhat on the year before. 
 
 "In 189S a more extended course was arranged, and as the butter- 
 making business, upon the central creamery plan, was in charg-e of Mr. 
 H. Mitchell of the Provincial Department of Agriculture, Mr. Mitchell; 
 took charge of the school, and was assisted by Mr. J. E. Hopkins of 
 the Dominion Department of Agriculture, and Messrs. J. F. Tilley and' 
 L. C. Daig-le, Provincial Dairy Superintendents; Mr. W. W. Hubbard, 
 editor of the "Co-operative Farmer," also gave a course of Idctures 
 upon Animal Husbandry. 
 
 "During this time the school has been held in a building 1 which was 
 not at all suited to the purpose, and it was felt each year by the- 
 instructors that some change should be made. This change came- 
 about through the action of the patrons of the factory, who felt that 
 they would prefer to run their factory business on the co-operative plan,, 
 with a building and plant of their own. 
 
 "The suggestion that the Provincial Government should erect the- 
 Dairy School Building- was warmly seconded by the Hon. C. H. 
 LaBillois, Commissioner of Agriculture, and the Government invited' 
 tenders for the erection of a suitable building. 
 
 "When the Provincial Government agreed to erect the building, the 
 associated patrons, under the name of "The Sussex Cheese and Butter.- 
 Companv," agreed to provide a site for it and a suitable plant, and now- 
 we have, in the combined property at Sussex, the building which is. 
 equipped with an up-to-date plant. 
 
 "The building is a neat wooden erection with a covered drive-way 
 thirteen feet in width over the milk-receiving platforms, a veranda on. 
 the end facing the road, and an ice house, jS x 18 feet at the back end.. 
 The ground floor of the building covers a surface of 55 x 75 feet,, 
 the main building being 35 x 75 with a lean-to on the east side, in whichi 
 the boiler and engine and butter-making machinery are located. Cold: 
 storage is fitted up in accordance with the specifications supplied by 
 the Dominion Department of Agriculture. Refrigeration is accom- 
 plished by the galvanized cylinder and ice and salt method. 
 
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 "On the first floor is a lecture room and a large cheese-i uring- 
 room with a hoist tor lifting cheese from the making room below. The 
 building is steam-heated and finished in natural wood throughout. The 
 floor in the making- room is of best quality rifted spruce and cannot 
 splinter. The walls and ceilings are of clear spruce sheathing and 
 finished with oil and varnish. There are roomy wash-rooms and closets, 
 and no effort has been spared to make the building a model of its kind. 
 Steam is furnished by a thirty horse-power boiler, and power from a 
 ten horse-power engine. The churns and butter-workers are of the 
 best makes. A 3,000 pound Alpha DeLaval Separator skims the milk, 
 never leaving enong"h fat to be read on the special skim-milk bottles or 
 the Babcock test. 
 
 "The cheese-making outfit is now being' installed and will be of 
 sufficient capacity to accommodate 20,000 pounds of milk per day. 
 The drainage system from the factory is very complete; a main sewer 
 of vitrified pipe with various branches, conveys all the waste into the 
 centre of the swiftlv-flowing Wards Creek." 
 
 The above description will apply fairly well to the larger 
 of the butter and cheese factories throughout the Province- 
 and all, on account of the interest taken in them by the Pro- 
 vincial Government, are rapidly increasing in efficiency. 
 
 In 1897 the number of factories to be found throughout 
 the Province vas 49, while in 1898 the number had risen to- 
 55. In the former year there were 1,209 farmers taking milk 
 to these factories, while in 1898 the number of patrons had 
 increased to 1,569, an increase of 360 in the single year. 
 The quantity of milk rose from 11,280,067 to J 5>838,042- 
 pounds, an increase of 4,557,995 pounds in the same time. 
 The quantity of cheese increased from 1,107,281 pounds to- 
 1,540,418 pounds, an increase of 433. 137 pounds in the year. 
 The value of the cheese manufactured in 1897 was $99,655.29,, 
 the value of that manufactured in 1898 was 8127,084.48, an 
 increase in the value for that year of $27,420. 19 or about- 
 ,£5,000 sterling. This is a considerable increase tor what 
 may be considered a new industry. In 1898 the creamery at 
 Sussex had 75 patrons and consumed 1,425,621 pounds of 
 milk, and manufactured 146,3^2 pounds of cheese, using an 
 average of 9.7 pounds of milk to each pound of cheese- 
 manufactured. The cheese sold at 8 cents (about 4d) per 
 pound. 
 
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 Twenty two miles farther down the Kennebecasis valley 
 5s situated the town of Hampton, the Shiretown of Kings 
 'County, only '20 miles from St. John. This is also a favoured 
 situation for first-class farms. The railroad here passes a 
 mile or so from the Kennebecasis river, on the shores of 
 which the older portion of Hampton village is situated. Im- 
 mediately below Hampton, the Kennebecasis suddenly 
 widens out into a beautiful sheet of water with marshy 
 •shores, known as Darling's Lake, which flows around a con- 
 siderable sized island of the same name. Running down on 
 the north side of the river, are a series of picturesque ele- 
 vations known as the Norton Hills. The most prominent 
 Is Pikwaaket mountain, a rather noticeable elevation, which, 
 however, hardly deserves the rather pretentious name which 
 'has been given it. 
 
 The view from the top of the mountain, looking in a north- 
 westerly direction over the village ot Hampton, the Kenne- 
 becasis as it winds through the interval, Darling Lake and 
 Island, and the numerous little islets which cluster around 
 the bigger one, and then across to the hills, at the base of 
 which runs the Intercolonial Railway is undoubtedly, one of 
 the most beautiful in this part of the Province. From your 
 feet stretch fine looking farms both up and down stream. 
 They are farms, which, as in the case of Sussex ones, are in 
 •excellent state ot cultivation, and nearly all have a consider- 
 able acreage of interval. 
 
 Hampton is very conveniently situated with relation to St. 
 John, both as a local market and a shipping port, being 
 about half way between that city and Sussex. The regions 
 surrounding this village, however, are far less developed 
 than is the case in Sussex, though, as in all other parts of the 
 Province, the development is now going forward rapidly. 
 One advantage that Hampton has is the fact that it is con- 
 nected with St. John by a navigable river, the Kennebecasis 
 being navigable from this point down. When looking down 
 -over the valley from the top of Pikwaaket Mountain, in com- 
 pany with the Deputy Commissioner of Agriculture, Mr. 
 Thos. A. Peters, I remember his remarking that it would be 
 
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 hard to find a more ideally situated sheep-farm than Darling's- 
 Island, with its large area, fertile soil, short distance from 
 the railway and inaccessibility as far as dogs are concerned. 
 
 Hampton is the seat of several important industries, one 
 of which is the Ossekeag Stamping Company Ltd., which 
 manufactures stamped metal goods in large quantities. 
 There is also situated here, Flewelling's Match Factory 
 which does a very considerable business, and is beautifully 
 situated on the bank of the river. The village itself is in- 
 deed very beautiful ; its situation being almost ideal. Here 
 are many of the Summer homes of wealthy St. John people, 
 while one man comes all the way trom Paris to spend his 
 Summers in this delightful situation. 
 
 This description, as so far given, has, as before 
 mentioned in connection with other portions of the Province, 
 been merely intended to give an idea of the typical appear- 
 ance, quality and a simple outline of the resources of the 
 Kennebecasis valley. The two towns which have been 
 chosen, and of which these very short descriptions have been 
 given, were simply so chosen on account of their being the 
 largest farming communities in this valley, and also because 
 lack of time prevented my even visiting other sections of the 
 valley, which, I have no doubt are fully as fine and perhaps 
 much finer than the sections described. 
 
 Norton is a very considerable village, and the other 
 stations, mentioned earlier, are progressing rapidly. Time 
 and space have not suffered me to evenj leave the main line 
 of railway. There are various branch lines which strike off 
 from the main Intercolonial railway at different points along 
 its route: From Hampton the St. Martin's and Upham rail- 
 way runs to the town of St. Martin's on the shores of the- 
 Bay ot Fundy in St. John County. Another line trom 
 Norton, the New Brunswick Central, runs north through the 
 northern part of Kings, and opens up the towns and settle- 
 ments as far north as Grand Lake in Queens, and new lines 
 are being added constantly. ' 
 
 Some distance south of Sussex is situated Markhamville, 
 where is located a considerable deposit of bog manganese,. 
 
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 which has been somewhat extensively mined, while in the 
 northern part of the country is situated the village of Have- 
 lock, famous for its mineral springs, as, for that matter, is 
 Sussex itself. Among other stations and villages may be 
 mentioned Waterford near the extreme eastern boundarv of 
 the country, and still farther east, Mechanics Settlement, 
 while north of Apohaqui, in the Mill Stream Valley, is situated 
 Berwick. Directly south of this portion of Kings County 
 which we have been discussing, lying between it and the sea, 
 stretches, as a narrow strip, for the most part heavily tim- 
 bered and ending abruptly in cliffs three, four and five 
 hundred feet in height, that face dark and forbidding out on 
 the wonderful bay, lies the eastern section of St. John 
 County, a section chiefly valuable, tor the present, for what 
 timber is to be found on it. From some indications which 
 have never been exhaustively worked out, it would seem very 
 probable that this section of St. John County must turn out 
 ..mineral deposits of considerable richness. No exception to 
 the rule that holds in other portions of the Province, this 
 country is traversed with a great number ot rivers and 
 streams, the largest of these being the Big Salmon River, all 
 of whose sources lie in Kings County. Another is the Little 
 Salmon River,- and there are many others of less importance. 
 One thing that may be .said, however, of that long, 
 narrow stretch of" St. John County, extending from the city 
 eastward to the boundary of Albert County, is the fact that, 
 in its numerous Ujikes and streams, excellent fishing can be 
 obtained; the trout fishing 1 throughout this region being, in 
 many cases, very-fine indeed. The largest of the lakes in the 
 county is Loch Lomond, some four miles in length. This is 
 one of a system of three lakes, the other two being smaller. 
 Otter Lake is another of the larger lakes in the county. Ball's 
 Lake, but a few miles from the city, being about the same 
 size. These with some of the wilderness lakes, have, for a 
 long time, furnished excellent fishing, and those in the 
 eastern portion of the county are very little troubled by the 
 angler. 
 
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 THE ST. JOHN RIVER VALLEY AND THE VALLEYS OF ITS 
 TRIBUTARIES. 
 
 Among the sections of New Brunswick that I have al- 
 ready spoken of is the eastern slope, comprising- a very 
 considerable area of land, throughout which the farming 
 varies but little in quality and method ; the Bay of Fundy 
 region, comprising all that portion affected directly by the 
 abnormally high tides of this remarkable body of water, the 
 Kennebecasis Valley, including the magnificent farming sec- 
 tion around Sussex and Hampton and the other smaller 
 towns of the valley, and finally the St. John river region. 
 This latter, greater than all the others in area and of a won- 
 derful fertility is, perhaps, the most prominent feature, either 
 from a physiographical or agricultural standpoint, that the 
 province possesses. The St. John River, taking its rise in 
 the State of Maine and flowing through nearly half a thou- 
 sand miles of a beautiful territory, has a large number of 
 tributaries. There are but few large or very important 
 tributaries. The St. Francis. Fish River and Madawaska 
 drain great lake regions along its upper waters, as is also 
 the case with the Aroostock, running from the State of 
 Maine and opening in on the west bank of the Saint John 
 River in Victoria County. But a short distance below the 
 Aroostock the Tobique — the most famous salmon stream of 
 this portion of the Province, flowing through Victoria County 
 from the northeast, the greater portion of its length being in 
 that County — meets the St. John but a short distance above 
 the town of Andover, the shire town of the county. And- 
 over and its immediate vicinity embodies almost an ideal 
 situation for an up river farming country. The intervals are 
 not as large as further down stream. They are, however, 
 remarkably fertile, and the upland in this region is fully as 
 fine as that further south in the well-developed County ot 
 Carleton, and further north, where the magnificent silurian 
 
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 area sweeps through Madawaska, northern Victoria and! 
 Restigouche. No other river of importance, unless the 
 Meduxnakeag which flows in from the western side at Wood- 
 stock in Carleton County can be considered such, is to be 
 found, until at Fredericton we come to the mouth of the 
 Nashwaak, a considerable stream flowing in from a northerly 
 direction and draining the northern portion of the Count)' of 
 York. Fourteen miles below Fredericton, in Sunbury County, 
 the beautiful little river of Oromocto, enters almost directly 
 from the south, and at its mouth is situated the shiretown of 
 the County, a village of that name. In Queen's County, 
 some forty odd miles fiom the mouth of the St. John, the 
 Grand Lake system empties into the river through a little 
 thoroughfare known as the Jemseg. .The Jemseg hardlv de- 
 serves the name of river. There is but little outflow from it, 
 its head waters not being very considerable. The largest o 
 all the tributaries of Grand Lake is the Salmon River, flow- 
 ing north-eastward from its sources in the absolute wilderness 
 of the western part of Kent County. The Canaan River, 
 arising in Westmorland, broadens out into the long lake-like 
 expansion of the Washademoak which flows into St. John 
 five or six miles below the Jemseg. This, like the last 
 tributary flows from a north-easterly direction, as is also the 
 case of the next one. if it can be called such, 
 namely, the Belleisle. The Belleisle is hardly more than a 
 lake-like expansion of the river, rather in the nature of a. 
 back-water, and for this reason has generally been known as 
 a bay. The last of the important tributaries connects with 
 the main river about four miles above the city. This is the- 
 Kennebecasis, the peculiar stream to which I have already 
 referred. All the tributaries from the Grand Lake to the 
 mouth of the river are really lake-like expansions, in and out 
 of which the tide ebbs and flows, the current hardly seeming 
 to move faster in one direction than in the other. Beginning 
 with St. John, the river flows through and drains to a certain 
 extent', the following counties: St John, Kings, Queens, 
 Sunbury, York, Carleton, Victoria and Madawaska. Leaving 
 the magnificent harbour of St. John and going over to the 
 
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 river port, known as Indiantown, a steamer can be taken, 
 during the season the river is open, up to Fredericton, eighty- 
 four miles above St. John. Fredericton is situated in York 
 County and is the capital of the Province. In the spring and 
 early summer, when the river is in flood, small steamers run 
 between Fredericton and Woodstock, sixty miles further up 
 stream. Through the latter portion of the summer, however, 
 and during the autumn these steamers have to be generally 
 discontinued, on account of the low water in the river. The 
 sail from St. John to Fredericton is, indeed, a very beautiful 
 one; the scenery constantly changing, both as to type and 
 variety. The geographical formation in the region of St. 
 John is Laurentian and Cambrian, and just above the 
 city the river runs between comparatively high cliffs of gray 
 and white limestone. Below and around Indiantown are 
 situated the iarge lumber mills that cut the greater part of the 
 millions of feet of lumber which are shipped from St. John, 
 and for which the logs come down, some of them, almost the 
 whole length ot the St. John River. As soon as you are free 
 ot the smoke from the dump piles of these mills, the first por- 
 tion of the river has its chance to impress vou. The Lime 
 Kilns are situated practically everywhere and in apparently the 
 most inECcessible positions. Many feet below them are their 
 loading wharves, at each of which a wood boat or schooner 
 is generally lying. ALer one or two sharp bends the stream 
 straightens out, and the land becomes somewhat lower on 
 each bank, ending in a rather abrupt cliff at the mouth of the 
 Kennebecasis. The sharp headland on the right bank of the 
 river is known as the Boar's Back. Just opposite the mouth 
 of the latter river lies a great expansion of the main stream,, 
 known as Grand Bay. The scene is one of sparkling blue 
 waters, vast rafts of logs, which are continually boomed up 
 in Grand Bay, of sharp cliffs close at hand, and of rolling hills 
 beyond, with here and there a lumber mill of some kind, 
 with its puffing white steam showing up to advantage against 
 the green foliage. To the right, one can look far up the 
 Kennebacasis and in the distance catch a glimpse of Long 
 Island, the largest island in that beautiful bay. A little 
 
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 ■^bove this, also on the right bank opens out the mouth of the 
 -Milkish, just north of Kennebecasis Island. On the southern 
 side of Grand Bay, nestling among the dark green spruces, 
 stands out a typical St. John River Light House. This is the 
 Green Head light. The river throughout is well supplied 
 with these lights, rendering navigation extremely easy at any 
 time during day or night. Again, above the great expansion 
 at the mouth of the Kennebecasis, the river narrows, until 
 only about one mile in width, where on the right at Sandy 
 Point is situated another light, this time a little white 
 structure set far up on a steel tower. From here the village 
 of Westfield, one of the favorite watering places of this 
 portion of the Province, is plainly visible on the left bank of 
 the river. Just at Westfield enters a small and unimportant 
 tributary of the St. John, which has long been famous as a 
 canoeing river. The Nerepis, the stream in question is a 
 beautiful little creek with intervals on each side, throughout 
 the valley 'of which runs the Canadian Pacific Railway. At 
 Westfield. the river takes a sharp turn to the right, running 
 practically at right angles to its former course. Its direction or 
 flow is here south-west, and its course is absolutely straight 
 for nineteen miles. This is the famous Long Reach, equalled 
 by only one or two rivers in the world. The sail up this 
 reach is, indeed, a very beautiful one. The steamer now 
 approaches one bank and now the other, as village after 
 village is passed. Now, she swings in comparatively close to 
 a little wharf and is met by a boat bringing out perhaps one or 
 two passengers. Then she bears awayinto mid-stream again, 
 passes an occasional island, where a lew head of cattle or 
 sheep are pasturing, and the channel again swings to the right 
 of that bank. On either side are rolling hills, some of them 
 attaining a considerable elevation. Near the head of the 
 "Reach," on the left side of the channel is situated the 
 "Mistake", a false channel which ends blindly, the long 
 tongue of land which encloses it being the first typical St. 
 John River interval land that is met with on the journey up 
 stream. Just opposite the head of the "Mistake" the beau- 
 tiful Belleisle Bay opens to the view, and here is found the 
 
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 ■first of the interval islands. Throughout the whole lower 
 portion of the St. John there is a great deal of very valuable 
 •interval land in the form of river islands. It is not to be 
 supposed that there is any great expansion of the river where 
 these island are found, a narrow channel, as a rule, flowing 
 on each side of them. 
 
 As we proceed up stream the first of these interval is- 
 lands ot any importance that we meet with is "Spoon 
 Island,'" just after crossing the border into Queens Count}". 
 "This is a long low-lying piece of interval of alluvial formation 
 roughly horse-shoe shaped, with the mouth of the bay down 
 river. Around the shores, as is usually the case, both on the 
 main lar.d and on these islands, is a heavy growth of elms 
 and willows. On each side of the river stretches the inter- 
 val and then the gradual slope of the lower uplands, finally 
 ending in considerable hills. As we proceed up river, how- 
 ever, these hills become lower and lower, until by the time the 
 mouth of theWashademoak is reached the country as far as the 
 ■eye can see is comparatively flat and rapidly becoming typical 
 of the Grand Lake region. Above Spoon Island is the largest 
 of the river islands, " Long Island" by name, situated near the 
 little village of Wickham; its entire length is four miles. Just 
 at the head of Long Island, on the west bank of the river, 
 the steamer calls at the mouth of the Otnabog Lake, an ex- 
 pansion of a little river of that name. Opposite this is 
 another horse-shoe shaped island, Lower Musquash, and 
 just above this point Upper Musquash Island is situated. 
 Without exception, the soil of which these islands are com- 
 posed is of the finest quality. It is practically all self-sus- 
 taining interval, flooding every spring and fall and needing 
 no further manuring. Two and a hall miles above the head 
 of Upper Musquash Island the mouth of Gagetown Creek is 
 situated, a short distance above Fox Town. Gagetown, 
 which can be seen from the river, is the shiretown of Queens 
 County. The steamer does not run up to the town, but is 
 met by a large row boat, capable of taking all passengers 
 and baggage, while the boat proceeds on her way up river. 
 Directly across Grimross Neck from Gagetown on the other 
 
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 side of the St. John River, the Jemseg, the outlet of Grand' 
 Lake, flows in. This whole region is a magnificent agricul- 
 tural section, and the portion of the river between this point 
 and Upper Gagetown, eight miles above, has long been, 
 famed for the splendid black duck and snipe shooting which- 
 can here be obtained. 
 
 Though the land is flat, the scenery throughout this- 
 part of the river, far from being uninteresting, is absolutely 
 beautiful. Nowhere do elms attain a more perfect growth' 
 than along this section of the St. John. Now on one bank 
 will be seen a little village nestling among gigantic willows, 
 then on the other side some insignificent streamlet will flow 
 in, its course to Be traced through the intervals by the mass 
 of foliage that hides it entirely from view. As the steamer 
 rounds some bend, the long, low, sandy point of some inter- 
 val island will show itself and offer alternate channels which 
 are generally taken on different days. The extent of some 
 ot the islands is surprising, the level interval covered uni- 
 formly with its heavy, waving crop of hay, stretching three,, 
 four and sometimes five miles, without any rising ground, 
 and dotted 'with the omnipresent elm. The steamer may- 
 have chosen one of the narrower channels and have pro- 
 ceeded, perhaps, half or three-quarters of a mile, when ahead 
 is seen one of the peculiar low-lying paddle tugs struggling 
 with an enormous raft of logs, and the passenger boat is- 
 forced to turn back and seek another path. Then again, a 
 wood-boat loaded ten or twelve feet up the mast, until only 
 a few feet of the bow and stern portions of the rail are 
 visible, is seen slowly working her way up stream. An 
 occasional scow, sloop rigged, is seen on her way to St. 
 John with produce, the greater part of which, however, is 
 carried down by steamers. The village of Upper Gagetown 
 stretches along for some distance on the west bank of the- 
 river, and three miles above it is Mauger's Island, in Sun- 
 bury County, just opposite which on the right bank is. 
 situated one of the most beautiful of all the river villages,. 
 Sheffield. Four miles above this and on the same side of 
 the river, is Maugerville, directly opposite Middle Island. 
 

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 The splendid quality of the land in these islands has had 
 much to do with the positions which the villages were ulti- 
 mately to occupy. Still, a few miles further up and the 
 Oromocto is reached, where at the mouth of the river lies 
 the shiretown of Sunbury County, with its quaint, Indian 
 name, made famous manv times in prose and verse. 
 
 The character of the river above this changes somewhat; 
 the hills rising a little higher as we proceed, and the intervals 
 decreasing in extent. The stream runs practically straight 
 for some eight miles in this direction, when the corporation 
 booms, with their long row of piers, come in sight. Opposite 
 them on the left bank of the river are two large lumber mills, 
 and two miles above this can be seen Fredericton, the capital 
 of the Province, its spires and domes showing above a perfect 
 bed of foliage. Just opposite the town the Nashwaak river 
 flows into the St. John. Above Fredericton a large number 
 of islands are again encountered, the channel, as it winds 
 between them, being shallow and in places hardly floating 
 the light-draft steamers that are used in the service along 
 the upper portion of the river. Throughout this region 
 practically everything is cleared, there being excellent farms 
 on both sides of the river. Somewhat further up, however, 
 we again come to heavily wooded regions which alternate 
 with moderate-sized cleared areas through the western portion 
 of York County. 
 
 As must necessarily be the case, the character of the 
 river throughout its upper stretches becomes very much 
 altered. The volume of the stream is much smaller, the 
 result being that the intervals are but small in area and 
 become more and more widely separated, until by the time 
 that Andover in Victoria County is reached there are only 
 Isolated patches of interval land. To offset this disadvan- 
 tage, however, the upland throughout this section, as has 
 been reiterated in the course of this description, improves 
 very much in quality, the land over-lying the upper Silurian 
 formation which extends across the border and goes to make 
 up the greater portion of the finest farming section in the 
 New England States — Aroostook County, Maine. New 
 
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 Brunswick has, however, by far the greater amount o£i 
 silurian land in this reg-ion. 
 
 To describe, with a little more detail, the counties along- 
 the valley of the St. John River: — Kings County and eastern 
 St. John County have been outlined already, especially that 
 portion of Kings embodied in the Kennebecasis Valley. 
 Running parallel with the Kennebecasis, but a few miles 
 north of it, is the Long Reach, of which Belleisle Bay is a 
 continuation. The region between these two valleys — that 
 is the main St. John River Valley and the Kennebecasis — is 
 but of moderate elevation, and the upland, even in this 
 region, is ot comparatively good quality. As has always 
 been the case throughout the Province, wherever interval 
 land was to be found, the more elevated soil has to a great 
 extent been neglected, on account of the abundance of 
 wonderfully rich soil in the river bottoms. Simply because 
 this higher land is not cleared for the most part is no indica- 
 tion that it hasbeen found unfertile, in the ordinary sense of 
 the term. It is simply an indication that there is a tremend- 
 ous area of wonderfully fertile land in close proximity to it. 
 Wherever this is the case the highlands suffer. This is not 
 an unmixed advantage, inasmuch as the tendency has been 
 for the population to spread in the search of this extraor- 
 dinary fertile river bottom, the distribution having been 
 carried on, so that considerable wooded areas have been 
 left throughout the Province, even through the most 
 closely settled farming districts. The advantage of this 
 is, of course, almost incalculable, as wood for building 
 purposes and for fuel can be found practically everywhere, 
 and the farmer in the most favoured farming districts has 
 but to spend the time and labour necessary to collect his own 
 fuel for the winter, very often being able to supply his needs 
 from the higher portions of his own farm. 
 
 Throughout the Province the majority of River Valley 
 farms are cleared along the river fronts and for some dis- 
 tance back, the extreme back portion of the lot being 
 allowed to remain in wood. The quality of this wood varies- 
 of course, with the section and the soil. In some cases the- 
 
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 trees will consist of various species of hardwood, maple,, 
 birch, beach, ash, butternut and so forth. In, others there 
 will be a considerable sprinkling- of spruce, hemlock and fir,, 
 while in other situations the forest area will consist entirely 
 of ever-greens, with, perhaps, occasional birch or maple. 
 Not only do many of the farmers possess all the firewood 
 necessary for their own use, but, especially in the case of 
 larger farms, there may be a considerable growth of very use- 
 ful timber. Nowhere in the world is wood for either build- 
 ing purposes or fuel more readily obtained than is the case 
 in this favoured portion of Eastern Canada. The more im- 
 portant towns and villages of Kings County, t have been 
 mentioned before. (See Kennebecasis Valley.) 
 
 QUEENS COUNTY. 
 
 The County ot Queens, which abuts directly on Kings 
 to the north-west — though in certain respects it resembles 
 the former County — has some decided points of difference. 
 Queens County may be roughly said to consist of the basin 
 of Grand and Washademoak Lakes, and part of the St. John 
 River Valley, The land is very much lower, as a whole 
 than in Kings County, especially around Grand Lake, where 
 there are no considerable elevations. As mentioned in the 
 general description of the St. John River, Grand Lake may 
 be considered a great back-water of that stream. Every 
 flood that flows down the main river, rushes in through the 
 Jemseg and causes the Grand Lake to overflow its thousands 
 of acres of interval land. During the spring, the whole neck 
 of land between Grand Lake and the main St. John river, 
 and_ for that matter, the very extensive intervals on the- 
 opposite side of the stream, are overflowed, and from Gage- 
 town one may look across miles and miles of open water, 
 dotted here and there with the elms that are struggling to 
 keep their hold in the face of the spring freshet. Through- 
 out this low-land region the entire face of the country, as far 
 as the intervals are concerned, is changed during these 
 
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 floods. So thorough are the familiar land-marks obliterated 
 for the time being that even people familiar with the country 
 have great difficulty in recognizing the real channel of the 
 river. The lake itself is about thirty miles in length. Near 
 its head are situated one or two small towns, while a con- 
 siderable number of moderate sized settlements and villages 
 are to be found along its banks. It varies in width from four 
 to between six and seven miles, and into it flow numerous 
 small creeks and brooks. Its main tributary, Salmon River, 
 is a stream of considerable size, running into Salmon Bay, 
 which itself flows into the north-east arm of the lake. Were 
 it not for the great fertility of the surrounding land and the 
 luxuriance of growth which clothes every part of it with 
 elms, the scenery would be rather uninteresting, but, as it is, 
 a sail through Grand Lake by steamer, which connects the 
 towns along the lake with St. John, is one ot unusual 
 interest. Around the head of the lake very considerable de- 
 posits of coal have been discovered, though not worked very 
 extensively; the greater part of the mineral extracted, is 
 shipped to St. John by water. 
 
 The houses of Gagetown, the shiretown of Queens 
 County, on the shores of the so-called Gagetown Creek, peep 
 out from the midst of a perfect forest of wild and ornamental 
 trees. The surrounding country may be taken as typical of 
 the farming lands ot New Brunswick. Gagetown vies with 
 Sussex, in its importance as an agricultural centre. It 
 labours under the disadvantage, however, of not being on 
 the line of railway, the Canadian Pacific running a consider- 
 able distance (nearly twenty miles) to the west of the town. 
 A branch of the railway, following up the St. John River 
 Valley from Westfield to Fredericton, has long been agitated 
 and it now seems that in a short time there will be seen the 
 plans promulgated which will make the greatest difference 
 imaginable in the prosperity of this section of the country. 
 Immediately around Gagetown are situated what maybe said 
 to be the finest typical River Valley farms in the Province of 
 New Brunswick, not that there is any difference between 
 the fertility of these farms and those of the Sussex Valley; 
 
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 but simply from the fact that the farms in this region are 
 . larger in area as a rule. This, is the only point in their favour. 
 Let me describe a farm which is situated heie that will, 
 serve for the whole St. John River:— The place is owned by 
 Mr. J. Sherman Peters. The upland rises back of the town> 
 of Gagetown itself and contains about one hundred acres im 
 all. The greater part of this is under careful cultivation,, 
 and some of the finest crops of grain that I have seen on any 
 uplands in the Province I saw here. Directly across Gage- 
 town Creek — though, as this stream can accommodate the' 
 largest river steamers, it would be dignified with the title of 
 a river in any country with less elaborate water-ways — is 
 situated the interval portion of the farm, seven hundred acres 
 in area. It might seem to one unacquainted with the 
 country that there would be but little variety in this 
 part of the farm. This is not, however, the case. Part 
 of the land is rather high interval and does not flood in the 
 spring. Another portion is what is here called "marsh 
 land," which is hardly dry at any time ot the year and grows 
 only the coarser qualities of hay. The elms are everywhere. 
 On the higher land is to be found nearly one hundred acres, 
 of first class hardwood of several varieties. Through the- 
 centre of the interval a beautiful little stream, known as the 
 "Mount Creek," winds its way, sometimes almost entirely 
 hidden by the trees that arch over it, and sometimes broaden- 
 ing out into a comparatively wide shoal lagoon. This is the 
 home of the black duck and teal. On the marshes on either 
 side of the Mount Creek, Wilson's snipe, who fly just as 
 erratically as do their English cousins and are just as fine 
 game birds, are often found in considerable quantities; and 
 at the very centre of the interval near the head of the creek. 
 is situated a peculiar hill, unlike anything found in other 
 portions of the St. John River Valley. This is known as the 
 "Mount," and, rising to a height of some ninety odd feet,, 
 covers an area of about forty-five acres. It is clothed on one- 
 side with a thick growth of maple, birch and beach. Near 
 the top is to be found a heavy under-growth of sumach. 
 The western side of the mount is cleared, and near the centre 
 
76 
 
 of the clearing, shaded by towering butternut trees are the 
 remains of a peculiarly constructed and evidently very old 
 •stone dwelling. The stones are set in a coarse mortar, 
 without having been altered from their original form. 
 The walls are tremendously thick and the foundations 
 solidly built. Unlike most cases of the sort, there is 
 not a single word of tradition as to whom the house 
 •was originally built by, or when, it having been in apparent- 
 ly the same condition as long as the proverbial "oldest in- 
 habitant" can recollect. From here there is indeed a beauti- 
 ful view. Upon every side of the Mount stretch acre after 
 acre of interval. In front is the creek, on the other side of 
 which is an extensive snipe marsh. The slopes of the hill 
 itself are now planted partly with young apple trees which 
 .are flourishing under the influence ot the favourable soil. 
 To the north-west of the house is a grove of linden, andlrom 
 the western base of the hill stretches a great field of oats 
 •which, when I saw them, were yellowing under the influence 
 of the September sun-light. I was told by the proprietor 
 that one portion of the interval of very considerable area 
 that lay just to the east of the Mount, averaged over thirty 
 bushels of wheat to the acre, and this must be considered a 
 splendid yield anywhere. Though over sixty head of cattle 
 were pasturing on different portions of the interval on the 
 day on which I visited it, I did not see one of them, the 
 pastures being so cut off from the surrounding portions of 
 the farm by the rows of elms and willows. Beyond the oat 
 field again lay a stretch of nine or ten acres of buckwheat; 
 and I must say that both the oats, and the buckwheat were 
 magnificent crops, the former being undoubtedly the finest 
 example that I have seen in the Province. I afterwards 
 learned from Mr. Peters that one portion of the area 
 threshed over sixty bushels to the acre, the whole patch 
 yielding over seven hundred bushels. The buckwheat also 
 gave an extraordinary heavy yield, though I find I have no 
 notes with regard to the exact quantity. When one considers 
 that a farm of the type and size of this one can be bought in 
 !New Brunswick for twelve thousand dollars at the outside — 
 
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•which would hardly be the equivalent of its annual rental in 
 •Great Britain — some conception can be formed of the chances 
 that are open to farmers who understand their business and 
 have a moderate amount of capital to help them. 
 
 Another one of the excellent farms of Gagetown is that 
 of Mr. T. H. Hall, situated just to the south of the village 
 but a few rods from the centre of the town. The interval 
 tin this case is not on Grimross Neck across the Gagetown 
 Creek, as is the case with Mr. Peiers' farm, but abuts direct- 
 ly on the upland. The house is most delightfully situated 
 in a perfect forest of hardwood trees on a little knoll. On its 
 sides which slope down toward the interval near the house is 
 a first-class vegetable garden and north of this a fine and 
 healthy looking young orchard. What has been said of 
 Kings County with regard to fruit growing may also be said 
 of this portion of the St. John River valley- The conditions 
 are practically perfect. The soil seems to present every ad- 
 vantage for fruit growing, and the only reason that it has 
 not been carried on more extensively seems to be the fact 
 that there has been an absolute lack of enterprise in the 
 matter. At Woodstock, where Mr. Sharp's orchard is 
 situated, the country does not present the same advantages 
 as do these lower stretches of the St. John River and its 
 tributaries. It cannot be predicted too strongly that fruit 
 raising in these valleys must always be one of the most 
 lucrative pursuits that a practical farmer can take up. In 
 any orchard that I have seen which has had even a moderate 
 amount of care, the trees in every case compare most favor- 
 ably with those in the world famous Annapolis Valley of 
 Nova Scotia; and, though I should not go so far as to say 
 that the conditions are better (whatever I may personally 
 Ibelieve), I still think that the Kennebscasis and St. John 
 River Valley present as fine conditions for apple growing as 
 •can be found in the world. When I visited Mr. Hall's farm 
 he was just in the midst of harvesting his oats, and I ma)" 
 say it would be difficult anywhere to find oats grown to more 
 ( perfect maturity or under better conditions. The crop was 
 ■an extraordinarily heavy one, and, from what the proprietor 
 

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 said, seemed to have been obtained without any great effort. 
 The land was, of course, intelligently worked, as Mr. Hall is 
 a graduate of the Agricultural College at Guelph; but no ex 
 traordinary amount of fertilizer or manure of any sort was 
 used; the simple fact of proper attention being paid to the 
 proper rotation of crops was what Mr. Hall had to thank 
 above everything for his success in the year that I visited 
 him. The upland grain fields were without steep rises and 
 sloped gradually down to the usual row of elms and willows 
 along the shores of Gagetown Creek. The southern portion 
 of the farm consists entirely of interval; the quality very much 
 resembling, of course, that of Mr. Peters' farm. Probably 
 nowhere throughout the river valley can finer trees be found 
 than on this farm; one elm I remember especially. It 
 stretched far above the tops of the others, developing into 
 long, curving, feathery plumes. The whole lower part of 
 the tree up to a height of, perhaps, twenty-five feet was 
 completely over-grown with a mass ot wild grape vines. 
 The base of the trunk was entirely hidden by the dense foli- 
 age and brilliant red fruit of the wild plum, while on one 
 side clustered a perfect mass of choke cherries, every one of 
 these extra growths being indicative of the quality of the 
 interval soil. 
 
 On the edge of Mr. Hall's interval is situated the Gage- 
 town Light, at the western end of a ferry which runs from 
 here across to another of the finest farms in this portion of the 
 country — that of Mr. Scovil. Thisfarm contains approximately 
 one thousand acres, a great quantity of which is interval, and, 
 like others in the district is famed, not only intelligently, but 
 scientifically. It is an education in the possibilities of New 
 Brunswick agriculture to visit these farms; and, were they 
 situated on a line of railway, the owners working them with 
 a moderate amount of capital should not only be extremely 
 well to do, as is the case at present, but wealthy. To give 
 still one more instance of a Gagetown farm; that of Mr, 
 Thomas Henry Gilbert is situated about two and a half 
 miles above the village at a point where the creek runs very 
 close to the St. John River. Here the Government have cut 
 
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 a channel through from the main river to Gagetown Creek, 
 so that steamers in their passage up or down river, may, if 
 ■necessary, take the Gagetown route down through the creek, 
 •instead of going by the main river. The upland of Mr. 
 ■Gilbert's farm is situated on the mainland, his interval, as in 
 the case of Mr. Peter's, being on the upper portion of Grim- 
 ross Neck. The whole of this neck (some three and a halt 
 miles in length and about two miles in width, all of the finest 
 interval land; was formerly a portion of the old Gilbert farm, 
 but was necessarily too extensive to be worked satisfactorily 
 by any one family. The farm now is sufficiently large for all 
 practical purposes, the upland is of as good quality as the 
 others, as is also the case with the interval. When I visit- 
 ed Mr. Gilbert, buckwheat threshing was in full swing. 
 A horse tread furnished the power for the threshing; piles of 
 reddish straw were lying about; the dust from the carrier 
 flew in clouds arcund the barnyard; team after team drove 
 in piled with buckwheat, cut but a little while, and five or 
 six men were busy looking after the grain and getting it in 
 bags and tied up. Mr. Gilbert himself is an excellent speci- 
 men of a New Brunswick farmer and a member of an old 
 English family who have been prominent in the farming 
 annals of New Brunswick almost ever since New Brunswick 
 was. He is a man not afraid of work personally, which is 
 a necessary quality for any successful farmer in this country, 
 and h is an ultim ite faith in the country itself. It would be 
 ■hird to find a rrore typical Niw Brunswick farming scene 
 than this, so I took a photograph of it, of which a 
 reproduction is shown. There is an air of prosperity over 
 the whole; the children — sturdy-looking little chaps being 
 well dressed and taking an evident interest in the operations. 
 The hay crop was so heavy during that year that the barns 
 •were not capable of holding it, and a very considerable 
 -amount had to be stacked on different portions of the interval. 
 On account of these intervals overflowing, the stacks are al- 
 ways built upon floors which are raised three or four feet 
 above the ground, so that the water as it comes down in the 
 spring will get no chance to injure the hay. If these stacks 
 
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 are covered, the hay undergoes but little deterioration. The 
 village of Gagetown itself is not particularly impressive, as- 
 far as its buildings, public buildings and stores are concerned, 
 they for the most part being small wooden structures. 
 Practically everything, however, that is required by the 
 farmer can be obtained in the village; this town, as is the 
 case with Sussex catering especially to the agricultural class. 
 The dwellings of Gagetown, however, are above the average,, 
 being for the most part large and roomy and beautifully- 
 situated. With one or two exceptions, they are built of 
 wood. 
 
 The coal deposits in the vicinity of Grand Lake have- 
 been mentioned before. Just how extensive these deposits 
 are is not yet thoroughly known. The fields have been 
 partially explored by boring, and in different sections have- 
 been mined quite extensively, but always rather carelessly 
 and unscientifically. Dr. L. W. Bailey, in his report on the 
 mineral resources of the Province (S. E. Dawson, Ottawa, 
 1899, printed for the Department of the Crown Lands of 
 New Brunswick) says, "There can be but little doubt that, 
 'among the minerals, of New Brunswick, bituminous coal 
 'was one of the first to attract attention, its mode of ap- 
 ' pearance, ready recognition and obvious utility alike 
 ' contributing to that result. It is probable that the first 
 ' discoveries were made at Grand Lake, and from the beds of 
 ' that vicinity coal would appear to have been obtained in 
 'small quantities as early as 1782, but it was not until sixty 
 ' years later, through the explorations of Dr. Abraham Gesner 
 ' that the full extent of the areas occupied by coal-bearing 
 ' rocks were made known. Between the year 1839 and 1841 
 ' in addition to the recognition of limited areas of such 
 ' rocks near the coast styled by him the Chignecto Bay Coal 
 1 Formation and theWestmorland Coal Field ascertained that 
 ' a large part of the central counties, including the whole of" 
 ' Sunbury and Kent, with large portions of Queens, York, 
 ' Northumberland andGloucester, were underlain by rocks of 
 ' the same age. These general conclusions were subsequently 
 ' fully verified, especially nythe work of the Geological Survey-, 
 
81 
 
 " With the recognition, however, of the fact that they 
 " have large superfices, owing to the extreme horizontally 
 " of the beds, the formation had in all probability but little 
 " thickness, and in direct contrast to' the extravagant views 
 " of Dr. Gesner, the coal seems of inconsiderable amount. 
 " The coalmines of Grand Lake are situated on its northern 
 "side, and about its eastern extremity, mainly in the vicin- 
 " ity of Newcastle River, on the Salmon River in Chipmam 
 " and about the lower part of Coal Creek; the entire extent 
 "of the Newcastle Basin, being estimated at about one 
 " hundred square miles. The country has an average eleva- 
 " tion of not more than fifty feet above the lake, while the 
 " surface of all is not far from the sea level. The country, 
 " except where cut by water courses, is also nearly flat, withi 
 " a drift covering varying from a few inches to 30 or 40 feet. 
 ' ' The lake is navigated by steamers and small sailing vessels, 
 " the distance from Newcastle to St. John by water being 
 " forty-five miles, and from Chipman to the same part about 
 "fifty-two miles. Chipman is now connected by the 
 "Central Railway with the Intercolonial Railway at 
 "Norton, a distance of forty-four miles. The means for 
 "the removal of the product of the mines to the 
 "market are, therefore, ample. The development of the 
 " mines has been very slow, indeed, throughout their entire 
 " history there has been almost a total lack of combined and 
 " persistent effort. For many years the removal of coal was 
 " effected in the most desultory way, each farmer upon whose 
 "land the seam was exposed, devoting a portion of his winter 
 " labor to getting out what was needed for his own use, or 
 " simply hauling a load on sleds to Fredericton." To get 
 some definite idea of the amount of coal to be found in these 
 fields, the geological survey finally took up the matter and 
 made a series of borings, the result being that they detei- 
 mined that the basin was comparatively shallow, with the 
 maximum depth not exceeding six hundred feet. On making 
 some calculations as to the quantity of coal to be found 
 there, they have estimated that in the Newcastle basin alone 
 there are about 22,135,449 tons, or if the associated areas of. 
 
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 'Salmon Creek and Coal Creek be included — about which the 
 information is less conclusive — the total will be nearly 155 
 million tons, of this it is probable that from one hundred 
 thousand to one hundred and twenty-five thousand tons have 
 already been removed. The coal is of excellent quality. On 
 account of the shallowness of the basin and the proximity of 
 the mineral to the surface, it can be very readily worked. 
 This coal field should be thoroughly developed. 
 
 I have before mentioned that this region was a famous 
 duck and snipe shooting ground. Let me give a day's 
 experience of snipe shooting on the intervals at the mouth of 
 the Jemseg River just across the St. John from the village 
 itself. In company with Mr. Sherman Peters and his son, 
 Oliver, I started from Gagetown on the fifteenth day of 
 September in a canoe, one of the narrow Malicete type, so 
 plentiful on the St. John River, We started with the 
 intention of paddling up the Grand Lake to shoot ducks and, 
 as a consequence, had but a few shells containing snipe shot. 
 The day was absolutely clear, and, unless one has experienced 
 a September day in eastern Canada, no description can give 
 any conception of the beauties ot the country and the bracing 
 quality of the air during this time ot the year. It was almost 
 perfectly calm, the maples on each side of Gagetown Creek 
 had begun to turn to the gorgeous hues characteristic of a 
 week or two later, and, as we paddled along, everything was 
 reflected in the perfectly still, clear water. After rounding 
 the point of Grimross Neck we met a slight breeze that came 
 clear and fresh from the west-northwest. This, however, 
 only added an additional zest to paddling. We landed to 
 examine a marsh, where a stray black duck might have drop- 
 ped in, and when we again returned to the river, the breeze 
 had freshened considerably, enabling us to put up a little 
 three-cornered sail and with one paddle down as a lee-board 
 we started for the mouth of the Jemseg, three-quarters of a 
 mile distant. Sailing in a Malicete canoe is an experience 
 which, unless you have plenty of ballast has a tendency to 
 cause you to dream for several nights of endeavouring to sit 
 comfortably on a log which is floating freely in the water. A 
 
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 llittle care, however, is all that is necessary and the species of 
 danger makes the process far more interesting. Even with 
 the ridiculously small sail the little bark slipped and splashed 
 along through the ripples as if propelled by some impalpable 
 force and in a very short time we had entered into the shelter 
 of the river bank again. As we rounded a bend, only a 
 hundred yards or so upstream the black smoke stack of the 
 "May Queen," one of the pretty little white paddle steamers 
 running from the Grand Lake ports to St John, hove in sight 
 winding hither and thither through the interval. A few 
 minutes after and she bore down on us, kicking up a swell 
 that caused us to get as near shore as possible, if we wished 
 to keep dry. With a waving oi hats and handkerchiefs, she 
 swept past and down to the pier at Jemseg, the last port of 
 call before Gagetown. Hardly had she passed us a hundred 
 yards when came the sharp call "Mark right" and a flock of 
 seven teal came whistling down across our bow. Oliver had 
 his gun in an instant and, as they hissed past at eighty miles 
 •an hour, he fired. Three birds out of the flock dropped 
 hardly a yard apart. The rest wheeled and swept back up 
 river. The water was low and a few hundred yards upstream 
 a marsh which is usually covered, or at least very wet, was 
 bare. Into this two or three snipe pitched, and we decided 
 to rout them out before proceeding upstream on our duck- 
 shooting expedition. 
 
 We paddled as far into the coarse grass as possible and 
 stepped out into the soft, sticky mud; shell bags were 
 adjusted, the last glance given to the guns and we were 
 ready for business. • The point on which we landed, on 
 -account of the little creek running across its base, had 
 become a marshy island not over 150 yards in length and at 
 its widest part probably 100 across. We formed a line 
 twenty or thirty paces apart and moved ahead. Hardly had 
 we gone twenty feet before a pair of birds sprang into the air. 
 They were tresh and not overfat and, with a couple of 
 squawks, they wheeled away, curling and twisting, as only 
 "Wilson's snipe can do, for a few yards. I fired and missed, and 
 ■immediately following my shot came two in rapid succession. 
 
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 Oliver had ''wiped my eye" and scored a double — 
 pretty good start. Almost immediately three more birds 
 jumped, and Mr Peters and I again succeeded in scoring 
 misses. A second after, and Oliver got his third bird. 
 While I was engaged in trying to calculate whether I ever 
 knew how to shoot, a Virginia Rail got up and lumbered 
 • away. Then, the thrill came back and with it the "know 
 how" which had apparently forsaken me. Simultaneously 
 with my success came a more marked one, for Mr. Peters 
 managed to get two birds, and tor a time the fun went fast 
 and furious. All that was necessary was to walk to one end 
 of the point and then back again. In the meantime a suffi- 
 cient number of birds had dropped in to keep us busy. We 
 shot but a little while, sufficiently long, however,, to spoil our 
 chances of getting to the point we wished to reach on Grand 
 Lake that day. We counted heads and in the two hours and 
 a half, only part of which we were shooting, we had gotten 
 three teal, one Virginia Rail and twenty-five Wilson's Snipe; 
 and, as we paddled back in the afternoon, it was with that 
 sense of intense satisfaction known to no one but the sports- 
 man after a day's hunt of this sort. 
 
 This instance, however, gives no conception of the 
 capabilities of this section of the Country for small game. 
 The following day Mr. Peters, with a shell bag properly 
 stocked with a hundred rounds of No. 9 shot, went over the 
 same ground we had covered and obtained no less than forty- 
 eight snipe alone. One of the favorite methods of shooting 
 black duck near Gagetown, is to secrete yourself in the wild: 
 grass at the edge of one of the numerous marshes in which 
 the birds spend the night, flying in from the main river a 
 little after sundown and continuing to come in until dark. 
 The last part of the work, owing to the darkness, is rather 
 uncertain, but this only adds to the sport. A good dog is 
 necessary, if all the birds are to be obtained. 
 
 Eight miles above Gagetown is the village of Upper 
 Gagetown on the same side of the river. The little town is 
 situated on a considerable slope, from the upper parts ot 
 which one can look eastward over the main St. John River 
 

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 across the intervening neck ot land and then far across the 
 glittering waters of Grand Lake, while a little further up 
 stream can be seen Maquapit Lake, connected with the form- 
 er larger body of water by a thoroughfare. The intervals at 
 Upper Gagetown are not so extensive on the same side of 
 the river as at Gagetown proper, but across the stream there 
 is a tremendous extent of this low-lying fertile land. Upper 
 Gagetown is, perhaps, the ideal situation on the lower St. 
 John River for black duck shooting. From here it is a drive 
 ot but a mile or two up river to the boundary between Queens 
 and Sunbury Counties. One result of the lowness of the 
 land, which is the general rule throughout these two 
 •counties, is found in the fact that a very much smaller stream 
 is capable of cutting its way into the under-lying formation 
 sufficiently deep and sufficiently rapid to establish a very 
 much more extensive area of interval land along its course 
 than would be the case in a section where the general sur- 
 face of the land is higher. This, ot course, is a great 
 advantage, inasmuch as some streams which in certain 
 portions of the country would be too small to carry any inter- 
 val land with them, here flow through very considerable 
 stretches of it, and.no matter how fertile the upland may be, 
 for certain branches of farming, the interval is always to be 
 preferred. First-class fishing can be found throughout 
 Queens County, the Canaan and Salmon River having long 
 been famous as trout streams ; but it is hardly necessary to 
 dwell on this point when speaking of a county that has 
 such a net work of natural water-ways, as is the case with 
 this. Throughout the eastern section, between the Canaan 
 and Salmon Rivers is an excellent bag game country. Mr. 
 W. K. Reynolds in " Rod and Gun "' in New Brunswick, 
 speaking of this region, says : "The Canaan takes its rise 
 in Westmorland County and flows through Queens County, 
 until it reaches its outlet at Washademoak Lake. On the 
 northern side of it, chiefly in Queens County, but including 
 also a portion ot Westmorland and Kent, is what is known 1 
 as the Canaan Moose Region. This may be said to include 
 a tract of country about thirty miles in length from east to> 
 
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 west and with an average width of about half that distance 
 •from north to south. This does not include the Salmon 
 River District, which lies to the north. The Canaan 
 region is one of the best in New Brunswick for moose, and 
 -it is to some extent a caribou country as well. It has never 
 been hunted to such a degree as to injure it and is very 
 easily reached from St. John." The woodlands through 
 Queens County abound in partridge (so called), this name 
 throughout the Province usually referring to one of two 
 •species of grouse which are found here. 
 
 SUNBURY COUNTY. 
 
 The long, narrow County of Sunbury, abutting directly 
 on the northeast side of Queens County, is cut a little south 
 of the centre by the St. John River. Though it possesses a 
 considerable number of streams, it cannot approach the 
 ■elaborate water-ways of the sister county. Much that has 
 been said of Queens County — in fact everything that has 
 been said regarding the farming capabilities — will apply to 
 Sunbury. The county is not as well developed as is Queens 
 in some respects, nor is the southern portion as fertile, but 
 in all the region about the St. John River and along the 
 Oromocto the same conditions obtain as is Queens. 
 
 According to Mr. Lugrin, the county contains 656 
 thousand acres. It was the intervals in the region of 
 Maugerville and Sheffield that first attracted the English 
 -settlers that came from the New England States to find their 
 homes in the Provinces. Both these little towns situated on 
 the right bank of the river resemble in their general features 
 the vicinity of Gagetown in Queens County. Everywhere 
 stretch the same magnificent intervals and river islands. 
 ^Quantities of produce await the steamer on her way to St, 
 John, and, as she swings into the wharf at Maugerville or at 
 Sheffield, it is usually crowded with farmers, each with his 
 tteam load of produce which he is sending to the city market. 
 
 .If we take the steamer from Fredericton some fine 
 autumn morning, generally about the 8th or 9th of September, 
 

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 by the time we have reached Maugerville and Sheffield/ 
 there will be a considerable quantity of produce already on 
 board. As the steamer ties up at the wharf at Maugerville, 
 however, the sight is one to gladden the heart of anyone 
 interested in agriculture. The whole wharf is crowded wiih 
 barrels and boxes. Here a box of tomatoes of the newer 
 varieties, unlike the old, seam-creased enormous affairs that 
 were the former prize winners, shows up to advantage; here 
 an enormous crate containing cabbages, each one large 
 enough to feed an entire family, and beside it a few half- 
 bushel baskets, each containing four or five enormous turnips; 
 then bunches of Mangel Wurtzels, and beside these a pile of 
 large carrots tied up in bunches. These are, of course, the 
 pick of the vegetables, and are on their way to the St. John 
 Exhibition. On one part of the wharf will be spread apiece of 
 burlap, on top of which will be heaped up different varieties 
 of rhubarb carefully cut and tied. An endless number of 
 baskets of fine looking potatoes will vie with similar baskets- 
 of beets in the public nolice, and in still another place will be 
 seen a few barrels, each containing two or three, or some- 
 times only one, enormous pumpkin, Hubard squash, vegetable 
 marrows and enormous cucumbers will be jumbled together, 
 while a few steps beyond, half a dozen baskets of onions will 
 claim their share of attention, and then the grains. The grain 
 in bags and grain in sheaves, and single stacks of grain fast- 
 ened carefully to show the size of head and length of straw. 
 The prizes at the International Exhibition are keenly striven 
 for, the farmers making keen efforts to win. Pictures taken, 
 at the International Exhibition, of the exhibit of grain and 
 vegetables, illustrates the magnificent success which can be 
 obtained in the Province ot New Brunswick. 
 
 YORK COUNTY. 
 
 The next County, as one proceeds up river is that of 
 York. This, one of the largest counties in the Province, 
 covers no less than 2,278,000 acres. It is bounded on the 
 
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 rnorth-west by Carleton County, on the west by the State ot 
 Maine (one of the United States), on the south by Charlotte 
 County, on the south-east by Sunbury County and on the 
 north-east and north by the County of Northumberland. The 
 .'St. John River runs through the county somewhat south of 
 'the centre, the most important branches being the Keswick 
 River and the Nashwaak. The south-west branch of the 
 Miramichi River runs through the northern portion of the 
 •county, and through this whole region there are splendid 
 hunting and fishing. The south part of the county abounds 
 in lakes, one portion of the boundary between York County 
 and the State of Maine being a continuous lake-like expansion 
 of the St. Croix River. The Magaguadavic lake is the 
 largest of the York County lakes, with Oromocto before 
 mentioned almost equal to its size. Other lakes are David- 
 son Lake and Lake George, drained by the Pokiok River, 
 Big Cranberry Lake, which can be reached by the Canadian 
 Pacific Railway, as is also the case with Magaguadavic, the 
 Digdeguash (or Digde waters, as they are locally called) 
 consisting of a chain of lakes emptying into the St. Croix 
 River, Skiff Lake, the Eel Lakes, emptying by the Eel River 
 dnto St. John; Bolton Lake and a host of smaller ones too 
 •numerous to even think of. These lakes, without exception, 
 afford good angling, nearly all of them having considerable 
 .numbers of trout. To get some conception of the type of 
 lake found in this part of York County, in early September 
 •of 1899 I visited the second Digdeguash Lake. This lake 
 locally known as the Wauklehagen, is situated in a portion 
 •of York County which is utterly valueless from an agricultural 
 point of view. This particular section is what is technically 
 known as a Glacial Moriane. Huge boulders which have 
 been torn from the surrounding formations not far distant by 
 the action of the ice are strewn everywhere, the soil finding 
 its lodgement between them. The lakes occupy positions 
 among these enormous boulders, the shores being almost 
 entirely made up of them and the surface being dotted with 
 islands, some of them only large enough to support one or 
 two spruce trees, some of them of considerable extent and 
 

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 •others again nothing but single rocks. The whole series of 
 lakes are stocked with pickeral, which furnish excellent sport 
 to the angler who is fond of trolling, McAdam Junction 
 with the Maritime headquarters and repair shops of the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway is situated between three-quarters 
 ■of a" mile from the foot of Skowheggan Lake. With this 
 exception, there aie no settlements in the immediate vicinity. 
 The woods are wild and rugged, and the same boulder form- 
 ation is found everywhere. Along the shores of the lake the 
 Red Deer often comes out in the evening to drink, and many 
 of this beautiful species have been obtained by simply wait- 
 ing at some favorite spot. Anywhere through these lakes a 
 man should have no difficult}' in getting four or five dozen 
 pickeral in a day, it he goes properly equipped. The scen- 
 ery, though of an awtul type, is delightful, the rocky shores 
 adding a picturesqueness to these water-ways that is 
 peculiarly their own. 
 
 The chief farming section of York County stretches 
 along the valley of the main St. John River. When I say 
 the chief farming section, I mean the section which has up 
 to the present been most thoroughly developed. Through 
 the other portions of the county, however, is soil well 
 adapted for farming which only waits for settlement. All 
 that has been said about farming in Queens and Sunbury 
 Country applies to York County. The western portion of 
 the county shows up considerable amounts of granite, the 
 greater part of the boulders which I mentioned in the 
 southern and western portion being of this stone. The salt 
 belt covers the greater part of Western York, the boundary 
 of the carboniferous system running approximately north-east 
 and south-west through the centre of the county, to the 
 south-east being carboniferous and to the north-west the silt 
 belt. Along the St. John River Valley in the immediate 
 vicinity of Fredericton, especially up river, are some splen- 
 didly developed farms, and some of these would make almost 
 ideal farms for men who had a little capital and were fond 
 of farming. They are near the railway and have every advan- 
 tage that interval farms can have. The city of Fredericton, 
 
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 the capital of the Province, is situated on the left bank, 
 of the St. John River on a high interval about four and a 
 half miles from the boundary between York and Sunbury. 
 Beyond the city rise University and Brick Hills, from which, 
 magnificent views can be obtained. Every street, either in 
 the business or resident sections is lined on both sides with 
 all varieties of shade and ornamental trees, and from the top- 
 of the University the city looks more like a forest than a 
 town. The view from the tower of this building is one that, 
 once seen, will never be forgotton. I saw it for the first 
 time but a short while before sunset. Up river the valley 
 can be traced tor a considerable distance. Looking in a 
 north-westerly direction can be seen the mouth of the Nash- 
 waaksis, while to the eastward lies the .mouth of the 
 Nashwaak, with scows of lumber, all ready to be towed down 
 to St. John. In the distance across the river and a mile or 
 so of country, lies Marysville, where is situated the cotton 
 factory of Alexander Gibson, the lumber king of New 
 Brunswick. Directly across the river lies the town of Gibson 
 itself. Down the valley of the Nashwaak comes the Canada 
 Eastern Railway, owned and operated by Mr. Gibson, which 
 runs from Fredericton in an easterly direction to the Gulf 
 Shore ot New Brunswick at Chatham. Up the valley of the 
 main St. John, can be traced the New Brunswick Railway 
 leased and operated at present by the Canadian Pacific Rail- 
 way Co., while at your feet runs the Fredericton branch of 
 the great Canadian Pacific Railway system. As is usually 
 the case in Maritime Province towns, church steeples are 
 among the most prominent features. Away off to the east- 
 ward of the river bank looms up the dome of the Provincial 
 Parliament Building and close beside it the tall spire of the 
 Church of England Cathedral. The See of the Bishop of 
 Fredericton, at present the Right Reverend H. Tully King- 
 dom Fredericton has about eight thousand inhabitants and^ 
 up to the present has not been the site of any very consider- 
 able manufacturing industries. The streets are well laid out 
 at right angles to each other, there is an attractive park, the 
 dwellings are pretty, though for the most part not pretentious;. 
 
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 the business streets are convenient and the stores and 
 hotels excellent. The town stands today, in most respects 
 the prettiest in the Maritime Provinces. The St. John River 
 here is spanned by two bridges, one — the main highway 
 bridge — to St. Mary's, a wooden structure — and the other a 
 steel railway bridge, connecting the Canadian Pacific Rail- 
 way on the west bank with the Canada Eastern on the east 
 bank of the river. Instead of the unattractive water fronts, 
 so often found in river towns and cities, at Fredericton, 
 especially along the lower and upper parts of the town, a 
 very considerable space is left between the streets and the 
 water, this forming a broad, grassy esplanade, shaded with 
 enormous elms, giving the city from the water front a much, 
 more attractive appearance than it would otherwise possess. 
 One of the prettiest sights imaginable which 1 had the good 
 luck to see in the latter part of the summer of 1899, was the 
 arrival of the Kennebecasis Yacht Squadron, with head- 
 quarters at St. John, in front of the Club House at 
 Fredericton, during their annual cruise for the season. The 
 boats straggled in one after another, their white sail gleam- 
 ing in the setting sun, until the whole western bank of the 
 river was lined with them. In a little while as the darkness 
 increased, all were illuminated, and the sight was an extreme- 
 ly pretty one. "The Parliament building is a large free stone 
 structure of handsome design recently built to supply the 
 place of the one destroyed by fire," says Mr. Lugrin in his 
 hand book for the Province. The building was built in the 
 early eighties. 
 
 Fredericton is the centre of a very extensive lumber in- 
 dustry, the working centre being Marysville on the Nashwaak. 
 River. Here Mr. Gibson has extensive saw mills and a large 
 cotton factory. The lumber as it is sawed, is loaded or* 
 scows and towed down the St. John River. The greater 
 portion of the logs come down the Nashwaak from the 
 regions around its head waters, though a good deal also 
 comes down the main St. John River to these mills. 
 
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 CARLETON COUNTY. 
 
 The next County to be considered is that of Carleton. 
 It has an area of 788,200 acres. Carleton County has but 
 very little interval land when compared with the Counties of 
 the Lower St. John, but is without doubt the finest upland 
 farming County so far developed in the Province. There 
 may be single farms throughout other portions of the Pro- 
 vince that are finer than any which can be found in Carleton 
 County, but nowhere do we find the continuous stretch of 
 carefully cultivated farming land to be found here. Wood- 
 stock on the west bank of the St. John River and at the 
 mouth ot Meduxnakeag, a little stream emptying in opposite 
 Bull's Island, is the commercial centre of the County and is 
 situated in the southern portion of it. The finest farming 
 land or at any rate the best developed farming land is to be 
 found on the west side of the river. No better idea of the 
 capabilities of this county can be obtained than by driving 
 from Woodstock to Centreville, a distance of a little over 
 twenty miles in an almost northerly direction. In this county 
 we come directly under the influence of the most southerly 
 portion of that great Upper Silurian fertile belt which spans 
 the north of the Province. Moderate sized, thriving settle- 
 ments are everywhere. One fine morning in October — 
 October the 10th — I left Woodstock to drive to Centreville. 
 The road runs along the St. John River for a distance of three 
 miles to the town of Upper Woodstock passing on the way 
 the famous orchards and nurseries owned by Mr. Sharp which 
 will be described elsewhere more at length. From Upper 
 Woodstock the road stretches inland in a northwesterly 
 direction, and the first village which we come to is Jackson- 
 ville. Unlike other portions of the province we did not, in 
 driving along this road, come to any uncleared areas of any 
 considerable extent. There are farms everywhere, some of 
 them well worked, some moderately well worked, but on the 
 whole the results obtained are creditable. The soil is in 
 
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 •every respect satisfactory. It is not as free of stones as is 
 the soil further north, but the stones are not sufficiently large 
 to be troublesome; all can be readily picked from the field. 
 The amount of stone varies considerable with the districts; 
 some being almost entirely free of it. As we drive over a 
 ridge beyond Jacksontown, the panorama that spreads be- 
 fore us is an impressive one, as we look in a northwestly 
 direction. Here and there are scattered small villages, close 
 at hand is a considerable group of houses with well built 
 barns, substantial looking outbuildings, a windmill on near- 
 ly every roof and considerable quantities of stock. On one 
 side is a neatly painted school house and beyond, in one of 
 the smallest villages, two or three church spires can be seen. 
 There is a general air of prosperity over the whole country 
 side. In the distance on either side of the road one can 
 get a very fair conception of the large area of the same 
 quality of land which has yet to be brought into cultivation. 
 Away to the northwest looms up Mars Hill in the State of 
 Maine, and far on the western horizon can be seen the peculiar 
 obtuse, slanting cone of Mount Katahdin, fifty-two feet in 
 height, which can be seen from the top of Squaw Cap on the 
 other side of the province. Practically all the grain is cut, 
 though herei and there a small patch remains. As 
 you drive along you see first on one side of the road 
 and then on the other moderate sized areas of roots. On 
 the day in question turnip pilling seemed to be the order 
 all along the route, and great piles of these vegetables were 
 to be seen. More occasionally a considerable pile of mangels 
 or beets were in evidence. Nearly every household had its 
 flock of turkeys, there sometimes being between thirty and 
 forty birds in the group. These wandered over the fields 
 from which the grain had been cut, and gleaned more 
 thoroughly than anything human could have done; the result 
 being satisfactory both to the turkeys and their owners. 
 Where an occasional bird would wander across the road was 
 to be found in almost every case a considerable flock of ducks 
 and sometimes of geese, while in one field that I noticed all 
 iour species'of poultry were mingled, ducks, geese, hens and 
 
Cathedral, Fredericton, York County, N. B. 
 
94 
 
 turkeys. The farm houses throughout Carleton County are 
 as a rule, better constructed and finer in appearance than in 
 any other portion of the Province. They are painted neatly 
 and the house itself always seems favoured, the out-buildings 
 coming in for their share of the beautifier. This, though a 
 small matter from an ultra-practical point of view, makes a 
 very considerable difference in the appearance of a typical 
 section of farming country. Stock raising is not carried on 
 throughout this part of the country as it should be, the same 
 tendency being noticeable here as elsewhere; that is the 
 tendency to raise hay and other farm produce and sell it 
 rather than using it directly on their farm in the production 
 of stock, either for dairy or meat production. Beyond Jack- 
 sonville, lies Jacksontown, then Farmerston and beyond that 
 again Lakeville. Eight miles beyond Lakeville lies the 
 village of Centreville. Centreville is nothing more or less 
 than a farming country. It is not a manufacturiug village, 
 and it caters to the farmers alone. Its stores are excellent, 
 and the stock consists of practically everything that can be 
 of service to the farmer. The houses are neat and, in some 
 cases pretty, and the whole effect is pleasing. To the 
 southwest rises a hill to a considerable elevation and 
 from this point of vantage can be obtained a view 
 of as pretty a stretch of farm land as can be found 
 anywhere in the world. Centreville is situated about 
 eight miles from Florenceville on the line of railway which 
 runs up the main St. John River. At Florenceville there is 
 an excellent local market and a more extensive market at 
 Woodstock, twenty miles down stream. Throughout this 
 whole section of the county agricultural progress is the order 
 of the day, and the man who can be said to farm unintelli- 
 gently is the exception and not the rule. To this fact more 
 than to anything else does Carleton County owe its supremacy 
 as an upland farming county. Before visiting the section I 
 had known to a great extent what to expect, but it is im- 
 possible to form an accurate conception of any district of the 
 sort without actually seeing it. The surface of the country 
 is very correctly described when it is said to be undulating. 
 
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 'Very often the undulations are hardly more than sufficient 
 -for drainage while in other cases there are considerable hills. 
 Very seldom, however, is the land so steep as to be extra- 
 ordinarily dry and make its cultivation with machinery a 
 matter of difficulty. Every advantage in the way of farm 
 machinery that is supplied by the modern market is taken up 
 in Carleton County. The farms have a large area and pay 
 well. The Savings Bank show handsome credits to a large 
 number of farmers. The more you see of the county, the 
 more you are impressed with the fact that farming after all 
 when properly conducted is the basis of the solid financial 
 condition of a country, whatever its others resources maybe. 
 One of the best proofs of the general satisfaction with them- 
 selves and the rest of the world felt by the farmers in 
 Carleton County is the difficulty which is generally exper- 
 ienced in buying a farm at anything like a reasonable price. 
 Of course, there are the usual accidental circumstances that 
 may lead up to the sale of the finest farms, but farming lands 
 cannot be obtained in any great quantity readily. As I be- 
 fore said, however, there are large areas directly contiguous 
 to those already settled which are still to be developed. 
 Though there is very little Crown Land remaining, unde- 
 veloped land can be obtained very cheaply and in a matter of 
 iive or six years can be brought to a perfect state of cultiva- 
 tion. Nowhere has the Government Policy of encouragement 
 to agriculture met with more favorable response than here 
 and even the river valleys with there thousands upon 
 thousands of acres of interval land, or Westmorland and 
 Albert Counties with their immense stretches of dyke lands, 
 have to struggle to keep up the records established in the 
 County of Carleton. Nowhere are the annual fairs held in 
 the different counties more generously patronized or gener- 
 ously attended than is the one held at Woodstock. These 
 annual fairs tend also to the rapid advancement in farming; 
 the Government Dairy Experts acting as the judges in the 
 case of Dairy Products. Northern Centreville, and at mod- 
 erate distances are scattered other smaller villages, each one 
 a secondary farming country in itself. An instance of this 
 
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 type of place is Tracy's Mills, a couple of miles north of 
 Centreville, while in a southwesterly direction, Long- Settle- 
 ment is another. When I visited Centreville, fall plowing 
 was in full swing through the surrounding country. Two or 
 sometimes three plows would follow each other over some 
 big- rolling field, and it was necessary but to notice the way 
 in which the plows run to become convinced of the class of 
 soil. 
 
 Apple Raising in Carleton County. 
 
 Under this heading I wish to refer to the famous Sharp 
 Orchard in Woodstock. The orchard in question is situated 
 out of town a short distance up river. I visited it on October 
 the ninth after the last of the apples had been gathered. It 
 lies on the westerly slope and the orchard and nursery 
 together cover in all something over one hundred acres. 
 Mr. Sharp, the 'proprietor of this orchard, has raised apples in. 
 New Brunswick for a great many years and has studied the 
 peculiarities of the climate and this subject most carefully. 
 Thus he is in a position to speak authoritatively regarding 
 the possibilities and prospects ot fruit raising in the Province. 
 A hundred-acre farm is nothing to be despised, but a 
 hundred acre orchard is really an enormous affair. To give 
 some idea of it, Mr. Sharp imformed me that personally each 
 season he pruned about one hundred miles of trees. Each 
 acre of this will yield about one hundred barrels of apples 
 on the poorest years and each good year two hundred, the 
 good and poor years alternating. This may be considered a 
 steady yield, giving an average of one hundred and fifty 
 barrels of apples per acre per year. The varieties which Mr 
 Sharp raises are the "Crimson Beauty," "The Wealthy," 
 and "The New Brunswick." He also raises a few "Famuse." 
 The "Crimson Beauty" is a hybrid originated by Mr. 
 Sharp. It is the result of a cross between the "Famuse" 
 and "The New Brunswick." He has succeeded in getting 
 all the qualities of the "Famuse" with the hardness and 
 keeping qualities of "The New Brunswick." The hybrids- 
 
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 are remarkably productive and very showy, but according- to 
 Mr. Sharp, lacked quality as far as flavour was concerned. 
 In the season of 1S99, Mr. Sharp raised 1,700 barrels of 
 "Crimson Beauties," 800 barrels of "Wealthies," and 1,300 
 barrels of "New Bruns wicks." Of these he informs me 
 that he got $3.00 a barrel at the orchard for the "Crimson 
 Beauties," without having to pay an)' cartage or freights. 
 All the "Wealthies" were sold for Si. 50 a barrel at the 
 orchrad.and the highest price received for No. 1 "Wealthies" 
 was $2,25. The "New Brunswick" apples brought some- 
 thing over $1.00 a barrel. A considerable portion of Mr. 
 Sharp's land is in nursery. In the season of 1899 he had no 
 less than 80,000 trees in one lot and 70,000 in another in 
 his nursery. Of fruit bearing trees in the orchard proper 
 there are about seventy acres now, carrying three hundred 
 trees per acre, giving a total of 21,000 trees. When asked 
 about the expenditure connected with maintaining an orchard 
 of this sort, Mr. Sharp gave us the following particulars: — 
 The expenses for the cultivation alone amounts to about 
 S300.00 a year, it costs $100.00 to spray the trees, this 
 spraying being done to keep away the codling moth and 
 canker worm. He could not tell me accurately what the 
 manure cost.- Two men besides himself were required to do 
 the work until the time came for gathering fruit, when sixty 
 hands were needed. Often it is difficult to get a sufficient 
 number of men at this season, in 1899 only thirty-five being 
 procurable. Pruning costs $50.00 a year for a few years, 
 and then that expense terminates. Each season it costs 
 fifty cents a barrel to get the fruit picked and packed and 
 taken to the station. Mr. Sharp is most enthusiastic about 
 New Brunswick as a country for fruit raising. He says that 
 nowhere are the blossoms hurt less frequently by the frost 
 than here. "Summer bursts on us so suddenly," he says, 
 "that the frosts have no time to injure the blossoms, the 
 weather being comparatively warm before they are developed. 
 I have been fifty years raising apples in New Brunswick and 
 I have never lost a crop. Among the many advantages 
 which the Maritime Provinces present, the frequent showers 
 
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 are not the least important. Between the Gulf of St. 
 Lawrence and the Atlantic frequent showers are the rule 
 throughout the growing season. I remember," said Mr. 
 Sharp, "visiting the Eastern and Middle United States a few 
 summers ago. There was a great drought and everything 
 was burned and dried out. When I returned to the St. John 
 River Valley it seemed greener by contrast than I had ever 
 seen it before. There is nearly twice the sunshine in this 
 country than is to be found in England. Why," he con- 
 tinued, "when 1 started here with the intention of raising 
 apples, it was not believed that apples could be raised at all 
 in the country and not a single barrel had been raised here. 
 Now, they are cheaper here than anywhere in the world 
 and I have seen all this change in only one lifetime, and I do 
 not believe that this section is nearly as well adapted to apple 
 raising as is the Sussex Valley. I have proven this by 
 sending some of my trees and seeds of some others to 
 General W T illiams at Sussex. When I visited that section a 
 few years later the markets of the vicinity were supplied 
 almost entirely with apples raised from these same seeds and 
 trees and came from General Williams' orchard. They were 
 finer than my own, proving that the valley could raise better 
 apples and a greater quantity than I could here." 
 
 The shiretovvn of Carleton County is Woodstock, situ- 
 ated about sixty miles ahove Fredericton on the left side of the 
 St. John River at the mouth of the Meduxnakeag. Wood- 
 stock is a progressive and fine looking town. Sloping down to 
 the river, is the site of several manufacturing industries and 
 necessarily a great farming country. Its public buildings are a 
 credit to the place and there are many fine residences. It is 
 situated about fifteen miles from the town of Houlton, in 
 Maine, and lies on the Canadian Pacific Railway. There are 
 two methods of reaching Woodstock from Fredericton, inde- 
 pendent of the river route. One is along that portion of the 
 New Brunswick Railway now operated by the Canadian 
 Pacific Railway which runs up the Keswick Valley on the 
 ■east side of the St. John River and from Newburg Junction 
 to Woodstock. The other is via McAdam Junction and 
 
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 through the town of Dubec in Carleton County, this line 
 running on the west side of the Saint John River. From 
 Woodstock there are railway lines practically in four direc- 
 tions, one running up the Saint John River, one to the east- 
 ward and down the Keswick Valley towards Fredericton and 
 thence down river, one westward into Maine and the fourth 
 almost directly southward through southern and western 
 York County to McAdam Junction, from where lines leading 
 to the United States and different parts of New Brunswick 
 can be connected with. From this it can be seen that 
 Woodstock is well situated as far as its transportation 
 tacilities are concerned. But three miles northeast of the 
 town ot Woodstock lie the best beds of iron ore yet dis- 
 covered in the Province; these are generally known as the 
 Woodstock Haematite Bed. To quote from Dr. Bailey's 
 report on the mineral resources of New Brunswick: — 
 
 "As soon as at Jacksontown and vicinity the ore beds 
 are quite numerous having a thickness ranging from one foot 
 to sixteen feet and are conformable to the inclosing slates 
 which usually dip northwesterly at an angle of eighty-five 
 degrees, though in places much contorted. Individual beds, 
 however, when followed are found to exhibit notable variation 
 in width in places. They contain considerable quantities of 
 manganese which also often gives a black color to the slates, 
 while occasionally green stainings indicate the presence of 
 copper. The average of analysis of ore from Iron Ore Hill 
 made by Mr. John Mitchell of London, and quoted by Dr. 
 Ells, gave: — Metallic iron, 35.593 per cent; sulphuric acid, 
 .723 per cent.; phosphoric acid, 1.298 per cent. 
 
 The first attempts to utilize the Jacksontown ores was 
 made in 1848, when a blast furnace was erected by the 
 Woodstock Charcoal and Iron Co. upon the bank of the St. 
 John River, a short distance above Upper Woodstock, and 
 about two miles and a half from the ore beds. Ore was 
 obtained by the ordinary process of quarrying, and according 
 to information supplied to the writer by the manager, Mr. 
 Norris Best, was charged as follows: — Ore, 1.350 lbs.; 
 lime stone, 70 lbs. ; charcoal, 20 lbs. According to statements 
 
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 quoted by Dr. Harrington, 3.33 tons of ore and 126 
 bushels of charcoal were required to make a ton of pig iron, 
 the charcoal (in 1865) costing seven cents a bushel. 
 
 " 'There were ten charcoal kilns, having an average 
 capacity of seventy-five cords of wood and a production of 
 twenty-eight hundred to thirty-two bushels of coal. The 
 quantity of ore used was on'an average three tons to the ton 
 of pig, and the cost at the furnace $1.20 per ton.' " 
 
 For some reason or other, probably for lack of funds, 
 the company which was operating these mines ceased to 
 •exist and iron smelting at Woodstock is, as Dr. Bailey says, 
 a thing of the past. It was stated that on account of the 
 high percentage of phosphorous, the iron was often found to 
 toe brittle or cold-short to a degree which detracted very 
 much from its value. 
 
 " On the other hand", says Dr. Bailey, " it is difficult 
 to reconcile this defficiency with the statements given as to 
 ■experiments made in England with armoured plates con- 
 structed of Woodstock iron, which, according to a paper by 
 Mr. William Fairbain, F. R. S., published in the Artisan, 
 had a resistance in excess of that of any other plate when 
 tested, of tensile strength in tons per square inch of 24.80. 
 It is also to be observed that the presence of phosporous is 
 not now the serious objection to the use of iron ores that it 
 formerly was. There seems no reason why these mines 
 should not be taken up by some enterprising cempany and 
 be worked thoroughly." 
 
 VICTORIA COUNTY. 
 
 Victoria County lying on the north of Carleton, is 
 bounded on the west by Madawaska County and Aroostook 
 County, Maine, on the east by Northumberland and the 
 northern extremity of York Counties, and on the north by 
 Restigouche County. There is no reason why this fine 
 county, comprising one million three hundred and twenty- 
 four thousand two hundred acres, should not be in every 
 
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 Tespect as fine a farming county as is Carleton. This it 
 nudoubtedly is, the only difference being that the latter county 
 is far better developed. Every portion of Victoria which has 
 been settled has indicated the excellent quality of its scil 
 much of which overlies the upper silurian formation. The 
 county contains several centres of population which were 
 originally (so called) colonies. Considerable numbers of 
 people were brought to the county and established practical- 
 ly in the wilderness, the results that they have achieved 
 showing how successful men can be in a new country, even 
 when they arrive in an almost indigent condition. To quote 
 from Mr. Lugrin's hand-book regarding one of these 
 colonies: — 
 
 "The Kincardine Colon)' is situated in the southern 
 part of Victoria County. It was founded in 1873 by colon- 
 ists from Scotland. The land was not well chosen, a lar^e 
 part of it being very rough and not such as ought to have 
 been used in an experiment, such as this colony was. But 
 the selection was in accordance with the wishes of the 
 organizer of the colony who was not a resident of New Bruns- 
 wick. The soil, however, is very fertile. During the first 
 year the settlers had many discouragements and disadvan- 
 tages, due in part to the unfulfilment of the promises made 
 in the prospectus of the colony; promises which were not 
 warranted by the prospectus of the colon}'; promises which 
 were not warranted by the agreement that the Provincial 
 Government made. But these difficulties were soon over- 
 come, and the two sections of the colony, Stone Haven and 
 Kintore, are now in a very prosperous condition. Four 
 years after the founding of the colony, Mr. David Burns, J. 
 P., one of the settlers, writing to the Government said: — 
 'In May, 1873, in passing through the brushed out track 
 where the road is now built (at morning sunrise) our visicn 
 ■was limited to a few yards by the density of the forest. The 
 only sound then to be heard were the screaming of the owl, 
 the snarling bark of the fox and occassionally the indescrib- 
 able grunt or whistle of the dreaded bear ; but May, 1877, 
 shows a different state of matters. In passing along the 
 
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102 
 
 Kincardine Road now, the rays of the~sun are peeping" 
 through the tree tops on the Watson Flat. On each side 
 of the road with few exceptions we have a clearance extend- 
 ing back from two to four hundred yards. The houses also 
 show signs of change and improvement. The buildings that 
 have been added show that the requirements ot live stock 
 have been attended to. The sounds now heard are the 
 bleating of sheep and the lowing of cattle, the bark of the 
 watch dog, the crowing of the chanticleer and amorous- 
 cooing of the house dove, and we also see the neat little 
 garden, both for use and ornament, forming part of the 
 homestead of the free, independent farmer. Five years ago- 
 we were preparing to leave the home of our forefathers and 
 our dear native land that we might obtain such a home as I 
 have described with a sort of semi-prophetic hope, balanced 
 by a doubt as to the attainment of the wish, but the ceaseless 
 stream of time has rolled on and what was then our fondest 
 hope and dearest wish is now an accomplished fact. Our 
 homes are our own, and, if as yet there are no luxuries, 
 there is comfort, and with many, when the harvest is over 
 they will have a year's provision in, so what some have 
 reached will soon be reached by all.' 
 
 " This colony has made great progress since Mr.. 
 Burns' letter was written. It is provided with its school 
 houses and highways. The increase in the value of the 
 settlement in the year 1876 is stated by the colonists them- 
 selves to be over $15,000.00." 
 
 This was published in 1876 and since that time tre- 
 mendous changes have come about. The settlement would 
 not now be recognized by its founders as the later years have 
 seen a much more rapid progress, proportionately, than in 
 the case of the former years. Another prominent 'colony-* 
 in Victoria County is the New Denmark Settlement. To this 
 place a considerable number of Danes were brought and 
 proved excellent settlers. The tract contained in all 17,200 
 acres. It is all upland. The first settlement, was made in, 
 1872, according to Mr. Lugrin,by a party of emigrants from 
 Copenhagen, Denmark, the majority of whom were not 
 
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103 
 
 farmers. It is hard to find anywhere in the Province now a 
 much better farming section than this settlement, and Mr. 
 Lugrin in finishing his remarks on it, says there is room in 
 Victoria County for thousands of such farms as those in New 
 Denmark. This remark holds good today, Andover the 
 shiretown of Victoria County, is situated on the west bank 
 of the St. John River, on the Canadian Pacific Railway. The 
 river curves around the village, which lies on an extensive 
 interval with farms stretching in every direction from the 
 ■edge of the village. Opposite Andover is situated the little 
 town of Perth, behind which rises a considerable hill. The 
 view from the upper slopes of this hill looking up the river 
 St. John, with Andover winding around its banks, and Perth, 
 at your feet, is as beautiful as any in the Province, and one of 
 the finest of its type I have ever seen. I climbed the hill on 
 the morning ot October the 12th, in 1899, and took some 
 pictures of the surrounding country. The day was typical 
 of October in eastern Canada. There was a white glare of 
 clear sunshine and not a cloud in the sky. There was a 
 feeling of keeness in the air and the hills showed clear for 
 thirty miles. Up river the valley of the Tobique could be 
 traced and its mouth seen on the right bank a mile or two 
 above. The houses and stores of Andover are built, I think, 
 without exception of wood, and for the most part painted 
 w-hite. The interval stretches behind them and then the 
 hills rising beyond, all in a splendid condition of cultivation 
 wherever cleared. When I arrived in Andover the annual 
 county fair was in progress, and teams were in from all over 
 the country. I watched them as they passed the pretty 
 little hotel, now a cart in which were huddled a group of fine 
 looking sheep would pass followed by the owner, usually 
 accompanied by his entire family in a wagon of no mean 
 dimensions; then, an express wagon, in which were several 
 good sized crates, each containing some choice specimens ot 
 poultry; behind this again some slick, carefully-groomed 
 cattle, for the most part Shorthornes, Ayrshires and Hol- 
 steins with an occasional Jersey, and still later a fine looking 
 ..pair of draught horses, gaily decorated with ribbons, would 
 
A Camping Scene. 
 
104 
 
 tramp past, to be followed in short by equally fine looking 
 horses of a very different type. Even in Woodstock, which 
 is noted for its annual fair, there is not more interest taken 
 than in this delightful little river village. There is more 
 good natured rivalry in the matter of the prizes in Victoria 
 County and in the Andover Fair than I have ever seen else- 
 where, but it must not be supposed that stock is the only 
 thing exhibited; other farm products come in for their share 
 of attention and among other things particularly fine butter 
 was to be found at this show. Mr. Tilley, the Government 
 Dairy expert who was there judging the butter, told me that 
 I should be surprised beyond measure if I realized the ex- 
 tent of the improvement in butter-making throughout the 
 country as exhibited in these fairs in the few years since the 
 introduction of the Dairy Schools and lectures on dairying. 
 
 Andover is one of the finest centres from which to start 
 on a big' game hunt in the province. It is readily reached 
 from St. John by rail. A portion of the trip, can, however, 
 be made by river as a diversion, if the sportsman so wishes. 
 The most prominent physiographical feature of the county is 
 the Tobique River, lying almost entirely in it and draining- 
 practically the whole county. The stream empties in on the 
 east side of the St. John River about two miles above Perth. 
 The land here is quite high on both sides of the stream and 
 the scenery is extremely picturesque. At the mouth of the 
 Tobique is situated the largest settlement of Malicite Indians 
 in this part of the country. Many of these Indians are fam- 
 ous guides and hunters, and I have never had better men in 
 the woods than two which I obtained here and took through 
 the Restigouche region with me. If these two men were 
 types of the Malicites in this village, then I don't wish to see 
 any harder workers. They were willing to work from any 
 time in the morning until practically any time the next 
 morning and did everything with a cheerfulness that made 
 them, independent of their capabilties — valuable companions 
 in a wilderness trip. 
 
 The Indian Nation, opposite Campbellton, where dwell) 
 five hundred or so Micmacs, and this village at the mouth of; 
 
105 
 
 the beautiful Tobique River, are the two largest Indiana 
 Settlements now in the Province. There are many expert 
 guides and hunters in both of these villages, as is also the 
 case with a little Indian Village opposite Fredericton. 
 There is nothing that the New Brunswick Indian of today 
 more thoroughly delights in than guiding the sportsman 
 through the deeper wilderness where the big game roams. 
 The Tobique River I have mentioned several times through 
 this work. Along the lower stretches, up past Plaster Rocks, 
 lies a very fine farming country and one which is being most 
 rapidly developed. Beyond this, the river becomes more 
 and more a wilderness stream, until finally we reach the 
 Sisson Brook region, a lake of the same being in the centre 
 of a fine deer and moose country. Beyond Nictau the river 
 breaks into four branches. The right hand branch of the 
 Tobique flows in from the southeast and into it flows the 
 Serpentine with a thousand twists and turns draining 
 Serpentine Lake. The Serpentine is a picturesque stream 
 with several sharp rapids. One of my Indians mentioned, 
 with considerable pride, that he went down the worst rapid 
 on the Serpentine in a canoe alone. The Mamozekel, a 
 small stream, flows into Nictau from the northeast, from the 
 west and northwest comes Sisson Brook, and from the north 
 the Little Tobique River, really deserving the title of the 
 Main Tobique River, flows from the Nictor Lake and the 
 Bald Mountain hunting region. There can be no more de- 
 lightful hunting trip than to start from Andover,with capable 
 Indians and birch bark canoe, and work your way up the 
 Tobique to the lake regions, where you are in the centre of 
 what I have repeatedly spoken of as New Brunswick's finest 
 big game country. On the day that I reached Andover I had 
 been there but a little while, when down the St. John two 
 canoes could be seen approaching, and I was informed that 
 two Americans had gone up only two days before, intending 
 to try Sisson Lake only for deer. They had delayed some 
 time on the way, until, as I afterwards discovered, one of 
 the men suddenly remembered that he had an engagement in 
 New York — only three days after it came to his mind — which 
 
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106 
 
 ■it was absolutely imperative that he should keep, and the race 
 began down the Tobique. In the canoes which we saw 
 approaching were the two men in question, and the Indian 
 had when they stepped ashore and began to quietly unload 
 the canoes and prepare the baggage for shipment by train, 
 which was to leave in half an hour later, been paddling no 
 less than twenty-tour hours continuously. They seemed to 
 make no more of it than if they had been out for a little after- 
 noon's exercise. All night long they had come down the 
 lower stretches ot the Tobique, seeming to know by instinct 
 just where to go under all circumstances. The result was 
 that they did arrive in time for the New Yorker to catch the 
 train which would enable him to keep his engagement. 
 
 The descriptions which I have given to other salmon 
 streams in the province will apply roughly to the Tobique, 
 though this is a somewhat different type of stream, as far as 
 its physical features are concerned, especially throughout the 
 lower stretches. It is, undoubtedly the finest stream fishing 
 that empties into the St. John River system, and from it and 
 its tributaries have been taken many a gamey salmon and 
 fresh run of sea trout. In the eastern county all along 
 Tobique Lake, are Muddy Lake and Gulquac. These latter 
 are seldom visited and are in a splendid hunting ground. 
 Just west of them rise the two wilderness peaks known as 
 Twin Mountains. Just before coming to the boundary at 
 Madawaska, on the course up river, one comes to the beauti- 
 ful Grand Falls of the St. John. At the Grand Falls the 
 river falls over a ridge 58 feet in height into a gorge some- 
 what over a mile in length, down through which the water 
 rushes and foams. The scenery here is magnificent, there 
 being no more beautiful falls of the type and size on the 
 continent. The St. John River above this point forms the 
 boundary line between New Brunswick and State of Maine. 
 The valley is more beautiful here, from a scenic point 
 •of view, than anywhere else along its entire course. 
 The railway runs through the valley, never leaving the 
 river any distance, until Edmundston, the shiretown of 
 Madawaska is reached, and the view from the train, especially 
 
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107 
 
 ly above the Green River in the St. Basil district, is probably 
 finer than at any one point along - its course. I have given 
 a somewhat more detailed account of this portion of the 
 country as a whole, in the description of the trip from St. 
 Leonards Station to the mouth of the Wagon River, and 
 thence down the Restigouche to Campbellton. 
 
 CASUAL DESCRIPTION OF THE RESTIGOUCHE RIVER, 
 FROM THE MOUTH OF THE WAQAN RIYER 
 TO CAMPBELLTON, 
 
 INCLUDING ALSO A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY TRAVERSED 
 
 BY THE PORTAGE ROAD, FROM ST. LEONARDS STATION TO- 
 
 THE MOUTH OF THE WAGAN RIVER. 
 
 In a trip of this kind, unless the intention is to "go it 
 alone," the prime requisite is a first-class man, be he Indian 
 or white man, and this, fortunately, I was able to fill very 
 well through the agency of Mr. Perley, of Andover, who 
 seemed to be thoroughly confident that he could fit me out 
 with two first-class Indians. 
 
 After arriving at the comfortable little hotel at Andover 
 in an outfit calculated to strike terror to the hearts of the 
 inhabitants of that beautiful little river village, and spending 
 a night with Mr. Perley, the Indians on the following morn- 
 ing, turned up for inspection. One, half Indian, half French, 
 Tom Moulton by name, was a lithe, active man, rather tall, 
 about 25 years of age, who is one of the most expert stream 
 drivers in that part of the country. The other, Nickolas. 
 Lolar, who, I alterwards learned, was the uncle of the 
 former Indian, was, practically, a full-blooded Malicete, with 
 small, deep-sunken eyes, high cheek bones and a firm well 
 cat mouth. The latter gentleman turned up resplendent in 
 a pair of dress shoes and a bright red necktie, which set off, 
 to good advantage, the remains of what had originally been 
 a somewhat highly-coloured fancy vest. Mr. Perley intro- 
 duced me to him in a few well-chosen words, and asked the 
 
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108 
 
 ■elder of the two men what he thought of me. " Guess 'e do 
 ■ all right," then turning lo me, "Good day!" Now was my 
 chance to ingratiate myself, so, instead of returning the 
 somewhat curt English salutation, I replied " Wal a gis kut," 
 which is, being interpreted, " It is a fine day." 
 
 After making what preliminary arrangements were 
 necessary, we parted, they to get their canoes in condition, 
 and I to buy frying-pans and a few other trivial things that 
 were forgotten, as is usually the case when taking a twelve 
 days' trip in the wilderness. 
 
 The next morning found us on the C. P. R. going north 
 where the Indians met us at Aroostook Junction. The 
 party then consisted of, first and most important, Nickolas 
 Lolar, Malicete Indian, by profession, guide and hunter, ot 
 the mouth of the Tobique, Victoria County. Second, and 
 more or less subject to the first, Tom Moulton, Malicete 
 Indian, more or less ; also, by profession, guide and hunter; 
 adding to his other good points, his facility as a cook, the 
 equal of whom I have never seen in the wilderness. Third, 
 Mr. Maurice D. Coll, at that time engaged in assisting me 
 in some photographic and other work. Fourth, myself, 
 profession, not exactly known — tendency towards scientific 
 and natural history work; among other peculiarities, possess- 
 ing an excellent appetite. We took 125 pounds of provisions 
 and this dwindled away somewhat rapidly. 
 
 On the evening of Friday, Oct. 13, we reached St. 
 Leonards Station, and piled on the station platform an 
 assortment of baggage that attracted the natives for some 
 1*2 miles around, and caused them to stand in open-mouthed 
 wonder, until the same was removed to what was to 
 be our first camping round, as we preferred our own treat- 
 ment to what might happen us in a St. Leonards hoi el. 
 This baggage consisted of two canoes, one canvas 
 and one birch-bark, two rifles, the aforementioned 120 
 pounds of grub; one Derby, Abercrombie & Co's water- 
 proof tent, 10x10; one Primus stove with a one gallon can of 
 kerosene oilfor usein the same; foursleeping bags; one of the 
 commonest type of red leather valises that had seen better 
 
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109 
 
 ■days, and contained among other things, changes of under- 
 clothing for the leader of the expedition, a peculiarly con- 
 structed lantern; a considerable number of photographic 
 iplates which were to assist in immortalising the trip; sundry 
 bags of smoking and chewing tobacco of a quality especial- 
 ly adapted to Malicete Indians; some pieces ot red flan- 
 nel, connected with thought of accident to the photo- 
 graphic lantern; a considerable amount of duffle that would 
 find no service in civilization; and last, but by no means 
 least, the wonderful instrument which kept everything with 
 -a delicious smell of kerosene oil around it, the photographic 
 lantern itself. Besides all these things, were several rather 
 bulky looking canvas bags, that contained an assortment of 
 woollen clothes for the rest of the party, calculated to stand 
 the most severe weather; and, also a box containing the 
 always essential cooking utensils. Finally, the most im- 
 portant ot all, the large camera, resplendent in a sole leather 
 •case, upon which was lavished the care of every member of 
 the expedition, and which was found to require so much 
 nursing as to be finally known as the "infernal machine." 
 Add to all this that most wonderful of all mechanical con- 
 tortionists, the photographic tripod, and even the uninitiated 
 readers will say that this outfit was not the easiest in the 
 world to transport through 26 miles ot woods, over a rough 
 rportage road, and then, down 120 miles of river by canoes, 
 ■through more wilderness to civilization again. 
 
 No sooner had I got on to the platform, than I was con- 
 fronted by a short, stout gentlemen, with a peculiarly shaped 
 slouched hat that had evidently seen several winters, with 
 the interrogation " Goin' to Restigouche?" on my replying 
 in the affirmative, he intimated that his name was Akerly and 
 ■it was his especial prerogative to see that people of my type 
 reached that beautiful river. After a short period of bar- 
 gaining, we decided that $10 for the trip, including the 
 transportation of the above-mentioned canoes and baggage, 
 -would be a fair amount, and that Mr. Akerly was to turn up 
 ■next morning at daylight, with a good strong pair of horses 
 .and a ,portage waggon — a peculiar, rather narrow and very 
 
110 
 
 heavily-built waggon especially adapted to the portage- 
 roads. 
 
 As it was then getting dark, it remained but to find a 
 suitable camping ground and test the capabilities of Mr. 
 Moulton as a genius of the frying-pan. After a short hunt, 
 the necessary place was found, which, though not ideally- 
 situated, afforded convenient access to the village — too con- 
 venient as we found somewhat later — . No sooner had the 
 Indians, with the marvellous dexterity of the good men of 
 their class, got the tents up and their share of the dunnage 
 transported from the station, and then got the culinary 
 operations in full swing, then the population of St. Leonards 
 Station turned out en bloc to visit our camp and inspect the 
 contents and occupants. The majority of them spoke no 
 English, and, as our French was not of the most fluent type, 
 the conversation sometimes lagged so decidedly as to create 
 silences which were almost painful, or rather would have 
 been if the Indians had not filled in the gaps by admonitions 
 to small French boys, in a language which both seemed to 
 understand, to keep their feet out ot the sugar and not to 
 walk all over the sleeping bags; coupled with gentle requests 
 to one young lad)' to kindly get up off the butter, which she- 
 had been sitting on some five minutes before discovered. 
 This butter the leader of the expedition finally had to rescue 
 with a few well-chosen French words, recollected from his 
 college course, and ended by depositing the same, after it 
 had been pressed back into approximately its original shape, 
 in a wooden box, trom which it was not subsequently re- 
 moved during the expedition, except as required for use. 
 
 After a time, as the night grew older, we received less- 
 attention, and finally we were able to crawl into our sleeping 
 bags, and enjoy the first night out doors under the genial 
 influence of a blazing fire, the material for which the Indians- 
 bad collected beforehand. 
 
 St Leonards Station is a small village on the upper St. 
 John River, in Madawaska County. The St. John here- 
 forms the boundry line between the Province of New Bruns- 
 wick and the State of Maine in the United States. St. 
 
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 Leonards is situated directly opposite the American town of 
 "Van Buren in the above state. Throughout this section of 
 the river there are no intervals of any extent, but the river 
 runs between comparatively high banks. Not far above the 
 village is the Grand River, emptying into the St. John on the 
 eastern or New Brunswick side, while some distance farther 
 up, the Green River flows in on the same bank. Both of these 
 streams are almost wholly within Madavvaska County, and 
 down them, in the spring, especially in the case of the latter 
 river, come great drives of logs to the St. John, to join the 
 millions of feet that come down the main St. John River, 
 from the State of Maine. Still farther up is the Madawaska 
 River, which drains Lake Temiscouata and several other 
 wilderness lakes in the Province of Quebec. All through 
 this region is a great deer, moose and caribou country, while 
 in the region ot Lake Temiscouata, and especially of the 
 Squatook, one of the most famous of the other wilderness 
 lakes. The black bear, now becoming much rarer than form- 
 erly in the eastern provinces of Canada, is to be found in 
 considerable numbers. Dr. Philip Cox mentions the 
 Squatook Lake as the region where the black bear is probab- 
 ly more plentiful than elsewhere in this vicinity. 
 
 Edmundston, the shiretown of Madawaska County, is a 
 small town situated at the mouth of the Madawaska river. 
 The land in this region, namely in the western portion of 
 Madawaska County, and extending across the St. John river 
 into Aroostook County, Maine, is a continuation of that 
 great silurian belt which extends across Madawaska, North- 
 ern Victoria and Restigouche Counties, and which, com- 
 prising several million acres, forms the finest upland for 
 farming purposes in the Province of New Brunswick. A 
 large amount of this land, about a million acres, is owned by 
 the New Brunswick Railway Co. Though the land is of the 
 finest quality, but very little of it has, as yet, been developed, 
 the greater part still being in magnificent timber. In the 
 last few years, however, farming has made tremendous 
 strides in the County of Madawaska. Where only a year 
 or two ago, one cheese and butter factory found it so difficult 
 
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112 
 
 to keep in operation, that thoughts of closing' were actually" 
 entertained, now after the Provincial Government has sent 
 lecturers through the district, and promulgated farmers' 
 institute, meetings, several of these invaluable institutions are 
 in active operation, and farming in Madawaska, as else- 
 where in the Province, is taking strides which show that the 
 eyes of the farmer are being opened to the possibilities 
 brought about by new methods and new conditions. 
 
 The beauties of the St. John river and its wilderness 
 tributaries, in this region are peculiar to the region itself. 
 The land, without being mountainous, is to a great extent 
 high, especially farther back in the count}', with a few rather 
 sharp hills. The uncivilized districts are most heavily 
 wooded with a great preponderence of spruce, as in other- 
 parts of the Province, but here arid there, fine tracts of hard- 
 wood, which will be described later, are to be found. 
 
 But to return to the expedition: — On the morning fol- 
 lowing our reception of the St. Leonardites, in fact betore aj 
 trace of davlight, the Indians were astir, had fanned the fire 
 into new life, and had breakfast under way, before the other 
 members of the camp thoroughly realized that they had been 
 asleep. 
 
 It was as beautiful an October morning as one could 
 wish to see ; clear, cool and bracing, with hardly a trace of 
 a breeze to waft the sound of the sheep bells from the ad- 
 joining hills. The only sign of life was the occasional high 
 white pillar of smoke, as it flowed slowly upward from the 
 chimney of some early riser. 
 
 The breakfast was a New Brunswick one throughout: 
 Dunn's bacon, a St John County product; baked beans, 
 grown and canned in Carleton County; brown-bread, made 
 by some mystic but highly successful formula, by Mr Moul- 
 ton, from wheat that had found its way from Kings County 
 almost 200 miles south, with a quart of milk which had been 
 the spontaneous donation of one of the French girls, who 
 had visited us the evening before. The offering was 
 made through the mediation of a small brother, whose 
 absence of English was fully as fluent as was ours of French,. 
 
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113 
 
 and who led us to understand that, though we were perfectly 
 welcome to the milk, he wanted to take the pitcher back with 
 him. 
 
 The French, in this part of the country, differ somewhat 
 from those of the more Southern and Eastern parts of the 
 Province; not in appearance, but in being somewhat more 
 careful with regard to whom they place their faith in at first 
 sight. This is a natural result from their close proximity to 
 their friends across the river. 
 
 Breakfast was hardly finished, before, with a cracking 
 of whips and a rattling of chains, the portage waggon, 
 accompanied by Mr. Akerly, with a considerable retinue of 
 young people which he afterwards informed me, was the 
 minority of his family, and a small minority at that, hove in 
 sight around the bend of the road. It was a matter of but a 
 little time to get the tent down, and the dunnage packed. 
 It took somewhat longer, however, to get the canoes lashed 
 in place on the portage waggon. The canvas one, being the 
 heavier and stronger, was placed below on a bed of hay, 
 while the birch-bark was inverted over it, and lashed securely 
 in place. 
 
 By the time that this was finished, and the outfit carefully 
 packed to withstand the vicissitudes to which it would be 
 subjected in going through a lumber portage road in the 
 Autumn, the sun was well above the horizon, and we had to 
 be on the move if we expected to reach the Restigouche River 
 by nightfall, Mr. Akerly very kindly offered to drive the 
 white men of the party as far as the carriage could be taken 
 about ten miles; the rest of the distance we should, of course, 
 have to go on foot, which was anything but a trial in such 
 magnificent weather. After adding a few more cans of baked 
 beans to the commissariat — this precaution we observed 
 after noting the amount eaten at breakfast and making a few 
 lightning calculations on the probable result — we started on 
 our morning drive. 
 
 There had been no frost during the night, and every- 
 thing looked as fresh and green as in spring. The sun 
 shone with a perfect glare and lighted up the river as it 
 
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114 
 
 wound in and out among the hills. The road continued up 
 the St. John river for some miles, and then, turning to the 
 right, plunged away towards the wilderness and the Resti- 
 gouche. Hill after hill was surmounted, the land every- 
 where showing the excellent quality of the soil, until finally, 
 we arrived at the last house before entering the wilderness 
 itself. This was a peculiar structure made of squared logs, 
 and containing a French family, which was sufficiently large 
 to fill a house of at least four times its size. The only live 
 stock in sight was the ubiquitous razor-backed pig, who is 
 never fed but allowed to shift for himself. This he does 
 most efficiently, turning up so much land by the roadside, in 
 his struggle for existence, that one might suppose the Gov- 
 ernment road machine had been paying a visit to the district. 
 
 When taking a picture cf the house, the family took 
 positions at points of vantage, where they could witness the 
 operations through clinks and cracks, without any danger of 
 being involved in the outcome, whatever that might be. 
 
 A short time after our arrival, a still further contingent 
 of apparently the same family, turned up in a two-wheeled 
 affair, drawn by a pair of steers, which arrived at the rate of 
 about one mile an hour, and took some time to stop. This 
 is a very popular type of conveyance among the French fam- 
 ilies in this section of the country, it having the advantage 
 of carrying, with equal facility, a load of hay or an entire 
 family, with only two or three authentic instances of run- 
 aways to its discredit. 
 
 We had not long to wait for the outfit, and it turned up 
 with the remaining members of the party riding the birch- 
 bark canoe bareback, which is no light feat if undertaken 
 over rough roads. 
 
 A hundred yards beyond this the woods began, and here 
 we had to take our leave of Mr. Akerly, whose son was to 
 drive us through to the Restigouche. From this on, the only 
 member of the party who could ride, was young Akerly, and 
 he, undoubtedly, would have much perferred walking. 
 
 The first part of the road led through a dense growth of 
 moderate sized soft-wood, chiefly black and red spruce, with 
 
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115 
 
 an occasional fir; somewhat further on, a few hemlocks 
 could be found, and still farther, the road continued rising- 
 somewhat rapidly, until it was comparatively dry. From 
 here, for the next hour or so, our path lay through the most 
 magnificent hardwood, with only an occasional spruce swamp 
 where the portage was almost impassible on account of the 
 mud. 
 
 About two hours after leaving the last house, we came 
 to a first-class brook; as, by this time, we had appetites 
 which boded ill for the 120 pounds of provisions, we decided 
 to have dinner. The horses were unhitched and fed, and we, 
 in a short time, were enjoying a dinner which the Indians 
 had prepared in a seemingly marvellously short time. The 
 day was as clear and bright as a day in June; the maples 
 flamed scarlet and gold, and even the sombre green of the 
 spruce was lighted up by the sunshine, which seems to have 
 a peculiar whitish glare at this time in the Autumn, 
 
 In a short half-hour, dinner was over, the cooking 
 utensils packed, the horses hitched, and with the tinkling of 
 the big bells always carried by horses on the portage, we 
 were up and at it again. We had thought that the road, 
 before dinner was bad, but our experience after that meal, 
 showed us that it was but a slight introduction to what was 
 to follow. We had six hours ahead of us in which to make 
 twelve miles to the Restigouche river, and this seemed a 
 great deal of time, but, with a few stoppages we had made, 
 when an occasional picture was to be taken, we found that 
 we had all we could do to reach the river bank before night- 
 fall. After passing the brook — where we had dinner — which 
 wound its way off in the direction of the Grand River, we 
 mounted a high ridge, and passed through the finest hard- 
 wood land that it has ever been my good fortune to see. On 
 every hand giant trees, now almost denuded of leaves, 
 threw a complete net-work of interlacing shadows, under 
 the influence of the clear October sunlight; black and 
 yellow birches, rock maples and sugar maples, and 
 an occasional hickory, and, in the lower portions of this 
 ridge, a scattering of ash, made up the greater portion 
 
116 
 
 of this arboreal canopy. The soil was a clear, moder- 
 ately heavy dark loam, almost absolutely free from stone, the 
 upper layers of which were practically made into a compost 
 by the thousands of tons of leaf-mold, which lay deep on 
 every acre. There is but little undergrowth, and long vistas, 
 which seem to belong rather to a beautiful park than to an 
 unclaimed wilderness, stretch away on every hand. The 
 "floor" of the wood had been clothed with multitudes of 
 beautiful ferns, now twisted and broken and browned with 
 the frost, but still beautiful, while here and there, brilliant 
 green patches of Christmas fern, were in evidence. 
 
 Some portions of the road passed through practically 
 unmixed hardwood, while along others, an occasional spruce 
 or fir, generally of gigantic dimensions, was to be found. 
 Though the season was a dry one, the spruce swamps, of 
 which two or three not very extensive ones, are to be found 
 throughout this hardwood belt, were very wet, and the 
 portage road developed into nothing but a big ditch, through 
 which the horses floundered with water up to their bellies, 
 and up to the hubs of the wheels of the portage waggon. 
 The efforts of the different members of the party to force 
 their way through the thick growth of spruce, on either side 
 of the road, rather than wade thigh deep through the mud 
 and water, would form an interesting study for anyone in a 
 positon to enjoy the scene, without actually participating 
 in it. 
 
 After leaving these swamps which furnished a rest to 
 the horses, the road, as far as the waggon was concerned, 
 was incomparably worse. Huge roots from birch or maple, 
 projected across and sometimes threw one side of the waggon 
 up so far that it seemed in imminent danger of capsizing. 
 Once or twice, while I tried to rescue my camera from a 
 particularly heavy shock, one of the canoes, as the waggon 
 lurched, threw me backward ro or 12 feet, into a growth 
 young hardwood. The Indians, who were of a highly 
 humorous disposition, enjoyed this part of the journey tre- 
 mendously. At one time the tront of the waggon would be 
 high in the air, with young Akerly with one arm around the 
 
117 
 
 canoe on which he was perched, as if he were trying to keep 
 himself from sliding off the back of a mustang; the next, the 
 front of the canoes would be down, until they almost rested 
 on the horses' rumps, and the driver would be making wild 
 struggles to keep from changing his seat from the canoe to 
 the back of one of the horses. The hubs banged against 
 trees sufficiently hard to have broken an ordinary waggon; 
 the bells tingled and clanged, the horses struggled and 
 pulled with all their might, for a moment or two, to over- 
 come some obstruction, and then, as the waggon rushed 
 down behind them, heldback like Swiss jaskasses, on the edge 
 of an Alpine precipice, buckling to again as the load was 
 finally checked. They, like the driver, who was accustomed 
 to such experiences remained for the most part, imperturable 
 and did their best in a matter-of-fact way. 
 
 The rest of the procession struggled or trudged behind, 
 according to tne nature of the ground; the Indians bringing 
 up the rear, apparently taking a step only when it seemed 
 convenient, and alighting in absolutely th ■? correct spot, 
 whether at the end of an ordinary step or of a seven or eight- 
 foot jump. Occasionally one would make a remark to the 
 other, which was generally concisely answered and accompani- 
 ed by a laugh that was hardly louder than a white man's smile. 
 
 After about five hours of this work, we arrived at a 
 branch road leading to a prospective camp of one of the lum- 
 ber gangs, which was to work in that region during the 
 winter. Here we found a considerable quantity of stores: — 
 barreled salt pork, plate beef, molasses, oats for the horses,, 
 flour, and enormous quantities of that most prominent of all 
 camp supplies — beans. Here we stopped for a few moments 
 and examined a string of grouse, which one of the men of 
 the gang had evidently shot; then, as there was but an hour 
 or so of light, we pressed on so that we might cover the 
 remaining two and a half miles before absolute darkness 
 came on. The road from this point on was, as a whole, 
 rather better, though there were one or two very bad places 
 where the waggon was almost on top of the horses. Gradually 
 we descended into spruce land again, and, at last, with 
 
118 
 
 practically no indications of it, we came out upon a beauti- 
 ful little brook which turned out to be the far-famed Resti- 
 gouche River. Here, as we had expected, we were greeted 
 by a gang who were out building a camp preparatory to the 
 season's lumbering for Nickson and Burt, one of the prom- 
 inent lumber operators in this part of the country. 
 
 They invited us to supper, and as it was then dark and 
 sprinkling rain, we were only too glad to accept. The meal 
 consisted of baked beans, as a backbone, with a large mug 
 of tea and a slice of bread running entirely across the loaf, 
 and about three inches in thickness — at least part of it did — 
 This order, needless to say, was repeated several times. In 
 a lew minutes the Indians had the tent up, and the horses, 
 picketed beside those of the lumbermen, were munching 
 away at their oats with an enjoyment, no doubt, strongly 
 accentuated by the consciousness of having done a day's 
 work to be proud of. Alter the meal was over, we thanked 
 our hosts and retired to our tent. By the time we arrived 
 there the Indians, who had left somewhat sooner and less 
 ceremoniously, had gathered enough fire boughs to make a 
 luxuriant spring bed over the whole floor of the tent, a foot 
 in thickness, and were stretched out on their portion of it 
 enjoying their first smoke. As the white men of the party 
 had not entirely severed their connection with civilization up 
 to the present, and had a few letters to write, this work was 
 accomplished, and the)' were given to young Akerly who 
 was to take them up with him on his return journey and 
 mail them at St. Leonards; then all but myself, after polish- 
 ing up rifles and seeing that everything was in good condi- 
 tion, rolled into their sleeping bags, and in a time only 
 possible after a long day's tramp through the woods in 
 October, had passed out of remembrance of the joys and 
 sorrows of this lite, and the only indications that they were 
 alive, for that matter that there was any life in the district, 
 was the sonorous snores that thundered out from beneath that 
 peculiar blanket construction which Mr. Coll termed his sleep- 
 ing bag, and mingled with the persistent champ, champ, 
 champ, as the horses ate their hay. 
 
119 
 
 The threatened storm had passed off; the sky was clear, 
 except when, now and then, a small fuzzy cloud floated 
 across the face of the moon, and cast weird, grotesque 
 shadows on the gleaming- white tent and the restless little 
 stream. On every side the green, conical spruces rose dark 
 and silent, and between them both up and down stream the 
 little river disappeared. 
 
 The nearest house was the last one we had left, a dis- 
 tance of some sixteen or eighteen miles to the southwest; to 
 the north and southeast, one could travel over a hundred 
 miles without finding any sign of civilization, and, with one 
 or two exceptions, there were no houses to the east for that 
 distance. It was indeed in the wilderness, and still within 
 close touch of the most modern civilization. 
 
 The place, the surroundings and the conditions were 
 such that would touch anyone who did not have an inherent 
 love for the wilderness, but for one that did, that love was 
 deepened and the appreciation increased, as it always is in 
 scenes of this sort. Just before turning in, I heard in the dis- 
 tance the muffled roar of the Ruffed Grouse as it drummed 
 to the moonlight. 
 
 The next morning was Sunday, and broke clear and 
 bright without a cloud in the sky. The men were astir 
 early, and our companion of the day before, after giving his 
 horses a good feed, got underway again for St. Leonards 
 Station. A few moments after he left, the tinkling of the 
 bells died away in the dense spruce on the hills above. 
 
 After breakfast was over in the two camps, the lumber- 
 men, as there was necessarily no church to attend, decided 
 to do the next best thing, and go fishing. The apparatus, 
 needless to say, was not elaborate, though there were one or 
 two fish-hooks among the party. It consisted, in most cases 
 of a piece of white twine, at the end of which was attached a 
 bent pin. It seems horrible to sportsmen to have to say it, 
 especially to one who has any respect for one of the gamiest 
 offish, the most famous of all the trouts: Salmo fontanalis, 
 but the only bait which they then had at their disposal and 
 used on that occasion, was salt pork. 
 
120 
 
 After breakfast I took one of the canoes, and, with the 
 aid of the pole, proceeded some distance up river. I took the 
 camera with me, and, after going as far as I could, took a 
 picture of the river where it was nothing but a narrow brook, 
 splashing and bubbling over stones, with hardly a place 
 where even a moderate sized trout could find his way. Far- 
 ther down stream, at various pools that I passed, the lumber- 
 men had taken up their positions, and were having sport 
 such as before in their lives they had perhaps not even read of. 
 
 When I got within a hundred yards of camp, Nickolas 
 caught sight of me and informed me that I had better hurry 
 up as "der was two tree patridge was mebbe 'bout 10 feet 
 from camp, and suppose um could shoot um pretty easy if 
 had rifle out — dunno were catridge is." I got to camp as 
 quickly as I could and started with the rifle, which was a 
 .303 calibre Winchester, and in a few minutes, had got 
 three birds; then I gave the rifle to the Indian, and he con- 
 tinued the hunt, bringing back three more, all of which were 
 obtained within seventy-five yards from camp. These, as 
 was the case with all the birds we got during the trip were 
 Ruffed Grouse. By the time we had got the brids skinned 
 and dressed, the hour for dinner had arrived, and, if part- 
 ridge tastes well in civilization, it is a hundred times more 
 delicious when your appetite has been whetted by life in the 
 open air. The six partridges, among the four of us, disap- 
 peared as incidentals to a meal made up of baked beans, 
 bacon, coffee and the other excellent things we had brought 
 with us, and were now beginning to appreciate. Before we 
 were through with dinner, the fishermen began to turn up. The 
 majority of them having before this got thoroughly wet, took 
 the easiest road home, and came splashing down through 
 the pools and shallows of the ice cold river. Needless to say 
 they were delighted, even the sportsmen among- them had 
 never had such sport of the kind, and some of them had 
 strings of trout which dragged along the ground as they car- 
 ried them. They were not small; possibly none ot them 
 weighing less than half a pound. They, like ourselves, 
 would have a luxurious addition to their routine bill of fare. 
 
121 
 
 Though the neighborhood was a pleasant one, as the 
 flat-to-let advertisements in cities generally states, we decided 
 that it would be advisable to move down stream to less 
 civilized headquarters, and, while the Indians were getting 
 the tent down and the duffle packed up, I got a picture of 
 the lean-to, which was then the only habitation of the lumber- 
 men. This was a small spruce frame covered with blankets 
 and opening on one side, in front of which was always kept 
 blazing a large fire. A cooking stove, which had been sent 
 out to go into the camp, was set up alongside of a big spruce 
 tree, with several joints of stove pipe supported by small 
 branches, and poured its white smoke up through the dark 
 green canopy above. 
 
 Each man's bedding consisted of a large blanket. These 
 were the luxuries which went to make their lives happy, and 
 if other lives were as happy proportionally as their number 
 of luxuries increased, there would be much less grumbling in 
 the world than at the present time. By the time I had got 
 back to the pool in the front of the tent, the canoes were 
 loaded. The larger of the two, owned by Lolar, containing 
 the instruments and more extensive portion of the outfit; the 
 smaller, the birch-bark, carrying the cooking utensils and 
 most of the bedding. Unless one has travelled by canoe in 
 the hands of a stalwart Indian, it is very difficult to form any 
 idea of how absolutely comfortable one can be in such. 
 
 In this case Nickolas had fitted up a place in the centre 
 of the canoe where there was room even for me to stretch 
 out mv entire length of six feet three inches. Under me 
 and at my back he had arranged the tent until it was as com- 
 fortable as a divan piled with cushions. Behind me, and in the 
 extreme bow of the canoe, was piled the dunnage, while in 
 the stern he had left room enough for himself to stand 
 comfortably. Everything being ready, we started on the 
 trip down river, which as far as 1 am concerned, has never 
 been equalled for pleasure. We had hardly gone forty yards 
 before the first obstruction was reached. It was a big 
 spruce log which had fallen across the river, and it seemed 
 impossible for a canoe to force its way through the tangle of 
 
122 
 
 branches beneath it. The Indian apparently knew better, 
 for he went as straight at it as if there was nothing- in the 
 way, and, with a vigorous push on the pole which would 
 have thrown a man less accustomed to a canoe into the 
 water, suddenly ducked. The branches broke and crackled 
 aside, and with a swish as they swung back into place, we 
 glided out into a clear stretch of water and finally round 
 a sharp bend where the river ran shoal, over a bed of pebbles. 
 Here no poling could serve, so catching the pole under the 
 thawrts,the Indian went overboard, and, walking ahead, seized 
 the canoe by the bow and dragged the whole until in deep 
 enough water to get in again. The birch canoe, coming be- 
 hind, being somewhat more lightly laden, was more fortunate, 
 and her skipper had less frequently to test his muscles in this 
 way. Tom, however, had the disadvantage, which he did 
 not seem to regard as such of not having rubber boots, 
 while Nickolas, or Nick as he was henceforth called, though 
 it was not a case of familiarity breeding contempt, was more 
 fortunate in this respect. 
 
 And so we proceeded, for the most part, poling, the 
 water not being, as a rule, over six or seven inches deep, 
 but sometimes, again, having to resort to dragging the 
 canoe over shoal places. To one unaccustomed to seeing 
 the vicissitudes ordinarily gone through by the average 
 canoe, it would have seemed impossible that these could 
 have withstood being dragged along over the rough stony 
 bottom of the river. 
 
 The stream itself is, in this region, as for that matter, 
 through nearly the whole length of its course, heavily tim- 
 bered on both sides. It varies in width, along the upper 
 section, from twenty feet to perhaps twenty yards, with 
 an occasional pool, containing perhaps eight to ten feet of 
 water. It winds about, here and there, with a steep spruce- 
 clad bank rising now on one side, now on the other on the 
 convex sides of the river's current; while on the concave 
 sides stretch away for two or three hundred feet, a little 
 aluvial plain with a growth of lowland hard-wood. Occasion- 
 ally close to the water's edge, on these flat lands, a sharp 
 
123 
 
 rustle would be heard followed by the pattering foot-falls, of a 
 Grouse, as he started off among the dead leaves, and the 
 Indian would cease poling, say "partridge," at the same 
 time keeping his eye fixed on a few waving blades of dead 
 grass and blasted ferns that marked the path of the wary 
 bird, while he would take the rifle and step quickly over- 
 board, leaving me to guide the canoe into a place of safety. 
 In a few minutes he would return, usually bringing a bird 
 with him and with the remark, "some more fresh meat," or 
 something equivalent, would take up his pole again. 
 
 The water of the River Restigouche is a revelation to 
 anyone accustomed to the average type of stream: cold as 
 ice, Summer or Winter, and clear as crystal, with hardly a 
 trace of vegetable growth to hide the beautiful hues of the 
 many colored pebbles that make up its bed. Its every source 
 flows from the absolute wilderness, without a trace of civiliz- 
 ation to pollute its waters on any of its five tributaries. 
 
 "A thread of limpid crystal, 
 
 From a thousand mountain streams." 
 
 Nowhere is the wonderful clearness of its waters as fully 
 realized as when crossing some of the deeper pools such as 
 • are found further down the river. Every pebble can be seen, 
 and every trout, as it glides rapidly away frightened by the 
 shadow of the canoe; the depth of the pool not seeming 
 more than five or six feet, when in reality it may be fifteen or 
 eighteen in the deepest parts. Never have I seen a stream 
 look more beautiful than did this wilderness river on that 
 bright October morning. The sunlight had its usual Autumn 
 brilliance, a fresh northeasterly breeze shook the tops of the 
 majestic spruces, and occasionally sent a scurrying cat's-paw 
 over the surface of the water in some quiet pool a hundred feet 
 below. Theie was no sound except the swish of the breeze 
 through the spruces; the gurgling or babbling of the River as it 
 rushed over some gravelly shoal or some solitary rock that 
 threw its nose above the surface, and the sharp clank of the 
 steel-shod canoe pole, accompanied by the pattering of the 
 water on the sides, as the canoe, under new impetus from 
 the muscles of the doughty Nickolas, shot rapidly along with 
 
124 
 
 the swift current. Occasionally as we would pass some deep 
 likely-looking hole under the bank, a giant trout, which as 
 the Indian said, " draw more water dan we do " would go 
 rushing down stream through the shoals and little channels, 
 throwing up a track of spray, the clear drops of which 
 glistened like silver in the brilliant sunlight. The Indian 
 would nod his head and laughing say, "got um bad scare 
 dat time!" In one or two cases the fish, after having rushed 
 perhaps seventy-five yards, ran into water so shoal that it 
 was forced to ti rn and run up stream again. From ahead 
 we saw the spray fly as the fish got into shallow water, and 
 then the wave, broken by an occasional splash as it rapidly 
 retraced its course. Nickolas dropped his pole and went 
 overboard, pushing the canoe to a place of safety, then again 
 seizing the pole, waded to shoaler watei near where the big 
 trout had to pass on his return journey. On he came, now 
 running fast, and splashing past stones and through shal- 
 lows, now running quietly and slowly through the deeper 
 channel, his movements only indicated by the wave thrown 
 up. As the fish came near, the Indian got solid footing and 
 poised his pole. Suddenly beneath the clear water, a long 
 black shadow appeared, moving slowly with hardly a ripple 
 above it. The Indian waited for a second. Quick as a flash 
 the trout saw him, as he slowly swung the pole. The fish 
 darted forward. Instantly the Indian struck into the cloud 
 of fl) ing spray that marked the path of the trout, the shoe of 
 the canoe pole clanged hard against a stone, and glanced 
 perhaps not half an inch from the fish as he rushed past. 
 But the half inch was sufficient; and the track of bubbling 
 water and flashing spray was continued up stream. 
 
 But he had another danger to overcome, as he went 
 past the birch bark canoe, Moulton leaned forward and cut 
 with the paddle, the blow struck home but was not heavy 
 enough, and the Indian went overboard and the struggle be- 
 gan. The half stunned trout swam blindly here and there, 
 now under halt sunken bushes, now through shoals, followed 
 by a bounding, laughing, water-soaked Indian with a canoe 
 pole in one hand and a paddle in the other, who now jabbed 
 
125 
 
 the pole under a big rock then looked round in bewilderment 
 for a moment or two, after which a big wave could be seen 
 zig-zaging away or circling around in an apparently aimless 
 manner, and the pursuit was renewed again. By this time, 
 the other Indian had splashed his way to where the encount- 
 er, which had now become a sanguinary one, was in pro- 
 gress. The picture as these two men rushed laughing 
 around, with poles held aloft, now up to their hips in water, 
 now running wildly through three or four inch shallows, to 
 gain some point of vantage, was one not easily forgotten, 
 and a striking illustration of the boyishness of the Indian, 
 no matter what his age. At last a lucky blow from one of 
 the poles — no one yet seems to know which did the work — 
 the big fellow was -fairly speared through the gills, and up 
 on the points of the two poles, he was hoisted from his 
 native element, never again to return to it. He weighed a 
 little over 3 J'-;' pounds, and made another acceptable addition 
 to the larder. 
 
 When we again resumed our course on the river, the 
 sun had begun to throw its rays at a heavy angle across the 
 tree tops, its radiance changing from silver whiteness to a 
 reddish glare that lighted up the spruces with a copper glow 
 as though they were attempting to rival the golden splendor 
 of the maples below. 
 
 It was nearly four o'clock when we came to the mouth 
 of Hunter's Brook, a fair sized stream flowing into the Resti- 
 gouche from the south side. On a bar at the mouth of the 
 Brook, was planted a stick surmounted by a chip, on which 
 was written something relative to there being a camp some 
 three miles up the Brook, which would serve as a shelter to 
 the hunter. But owing to its author's lack of tuition in Eng- 
 lish we were not enabled, even with the efforts of the Indians 
 to discover its whole purport. As the sun was sinking when 
 we left the Brook, it remained but to find a suitable camping 
 ground. After about a mile further poling, we came to a 
 site formerly occupied by one of the Government fish war- 
 dens, Guisseppe Violette, and it turned out to be an excellent 
 place to pitch our tent. As a bear had visited the place 
 
126 
 
 between Mr. Violette's departure and our advent, we found it 
 necessary to fill up with moss and stones, several holes 
 which that inquisitive animal had dug in the tent floor. But 
 with this exception, practically everything- was ready for 
 occupancy. The canoes were then turned over and the 
 baggage carried up to our new home. 
 
 The evening was clear and promised to be cold, and, in 
 a few moments the sound of the axe echoed and re-echoed 
 among the trees as the Indians cut the bark logs in prepar- 
 ation for a frosty night. They soon had a pile of fire-wood 
 that would have kept an old fashioned fire place going for 
 several days, and before darkness had fairly come on had 
 gathered the usual bed of soft, springy odoriferous "browse." 
 The big trout, which had been the hero of one of the in- 
 teresting episodes of the day was soon sizzling and splutter- 
 ing in the frying-pan. The "kid" was making vast prepar- 
 ations for sleeping in comfort, in the way of putting on 
 additional layers of underclothing. One or two owls, 
 always inquisitive and fond of fire-light, were quietly moving 
 about from tree to tree and watching our every movement. 
 By the time supper was ready and the enormous mugs ot 
 coffee poured, the moon, one day nearer the full, was 
 lighting up the dark spruce across the river and touching 
 the tree tops high above our heads, while down below, the 
 camp fire threw its ruddy, flaring, home-like glow out through 
 the intersticies of the long feathery branches. After supper 
 the problem arose as to how I should get sufficient darkness 
 in which to change plates. The question was explained to 
 the Indians, and, after a few moments thought, solved satis- 
 factorily by them in this remark. "We make um little camp 
 inside big camp wid blankets, dat be plenty dark, guess," 
 which they proceeded to do. The necessary frame was then 
 made of birch seedlings and in less time than it takes to tell, 
 the little camp was a reality, and the most exacting photo- 
 grapher could not have wished anything darker. Not a 
 night passed on the trip without the first question after 
 supper being, "want um little camp tonight?" and they 
 seemed to evince a real interest and pleasure in its 
 
127 
 
 ■construction, which was always accompanied with a good 
 many jokes, which my acquaintance with Malicete — fortunate- 
 ly for my own self conceit — did not always lead me to 
 thoroughly comprehend. About half-past eight, we turned 
 in to sleep the sleep of the woodsmen. 
 
 All the upper portion of the Restigouche River, from its 
 source down to some distance below the Gounomitz River, 
 has not cut down very deeply into the formation through 
 which it runs. Both the land and the river are comparative- 
 ly elevated. The country, as is the case farther west in 
 Madawaska County, is somewhat undulating, with no sharp 
 hills, and is covered with a continuous heavy growth of 
 timber, consisting, for the most part of spruce. 
 
 When we arose next morning, the frost had clothed the 
 bushes in a white, glittering mantle, and round the edge of 
 the River, and in the little back-waters, there was from one- 
 quarter to one-half inch of ice. The air was clear and keen, 
 and the sky cloudless as on the preceding day. Breakfast 
 was ready as the first rays of the sun glared through the tree- 
 tops and lit up the slowly ascending smoke. A half-hour 
 sufficed to finish breakfast and break camp, and, in a few- 
 moments afterwards everything was in the canoes, and the 
 scene was left in charge of the ubiquitous, always-inquisitive 
 and always-hungry Canada Jay, who, for some ten or fifteen 
 minutes, in language known only to Canada Jays and woods- 
 men, had been expostulating with us for keeping him so long 
 from his well-earned breakfast. When I say well-earned, 
 I mean that he had been watching it with more or less con- 
 stancy ever since we had landed the night before. 
 
 The morning, to say the least, was cool and the water 
 was icy, but the first shallows saw the Indians overboard, as 
 usual, apparently caring no more for cold water than if they 
 were a pair of salmon. We had hardly gone 300 yards from 
 the camp before, as we rounded a sharp bend in the River, a 
 flock of Black Duck, that King of New Brunswick game 
 ducks, comprising perhaps twenty-five or thirty birds, rose 
 with a great flapping of wing,s, and quacking out their ex- 
 postulations, went whirring away down the River. Several 
 
128 
 
 times we disturbed them, as they would also follow the 
 stream down, until, tired at last of being so persistently 
 interrupted, they wheeled away over the woods, and doubling 
 their track, returned, no doubt, to the large pool from 
 whence we had at first driven them. A few miles below this 
 we encountered another smaller flock, and a short distance 
 below, still another; while just before the time arrived to 
 stop for dinner, a large flock of red-breasted Merganzers 
 burst away at a seventy mile an hour gait, and must have 
 flown past our camp ot that night as we saw no more of 
 them. 
 
 Here and there as we got further down the River, along 
 one bank or the other, we would meet with an occasional 
 swamp where large ceders hung their feathery foliage over 
 the River, and the spruces were festooned with great string- 
 ers ot the white lichen (old man's beard) which waved and 
 streamed in the soft northerly wind. The River was deepening 
 somewhat by this time, and the Indians had less often to 
 drag the canoes over the shallows. Here and there a half- 
 sunken bush would save us from running into a sharp stone, 
 but even with all the care exercised by the Indians, occa- 
 sionally the canoe would glide up on a rock, until I would feel 
 that I was getting directly on top of it, and would wonder 
 how the canoe could possibly stand the strain. A big lurch 
 and heave would set her free again, however, and on we 
 would go as easily as befoie. Then again there would be a 
 shoal to surmount with perhaps another one beyond a dark 
 pool, and the Indian would sit on the bow with his feet 
 dangling in the water until the deep water was passed, and 1 
 then again have to drag and twist the canoe over the rocks 
 below. Now we would glide into a long quiet stretch where 
 there would be perhaps sufficient water to use the paddle, 
 and then, from farther down stream a new sound would' 
 arise — the deep rippling roar that denotes a rapid. 
 
 The Indian then stands up with pole in hand, moving 
 the canoe, as she runs more and more swiftly towards the 
 obstruction, from one side of the stream to the other, his 
 keen eye scanning every ripple that indicates a rock and; 
 
129 
 
 every roll that shows where the deep water is. The stream 
 narrows until it is barely twenty feet in width, and though 
 the rocky portals on either side of the opening- rushes green, 
 clear and smooth only to break into a thousand little curling 
 waves below. The canoe moves swiftly on, allowed to go at 
 her own free will for a few yards, then as the keen eye of her 
 owner sees that she is going too far to one side, the pole is 
 swung quickly forward, the iron shoe wedges itself firmly 
 between two rocks on the bottom, and the Indian throws his 
 whole weight on the slender stick. The canoe stops as if by 
 magic, and the water rushes and foams past. Her stern, 
 however, has been pushed far enough aside, and as the cur- 
 rent again carries her on, and is assisted by one last mighty 
 push from the Indian, she glides into the smooth, green tor- 
 rent, passes, like a race-horse, the sharp rocks over which 
 the water is foaming, and glides into the turbulent, leaping 
 foam below. As far as the motion of the canoe is concerned, 
 it is hard to realize that she is increasing speed in the upper 
 part of the rapid, and except for the rapidity with which the 
 rocks move past, and the swish of the breeze as she leaps 
 forward, one hardly knows from whence comes the exhilera- 
 tion. 
 
 Here we came upon the first signs of lumbering we had 
 seen since we left the mouth of the Wagan. A brough of 
 logs was piled on the left bank of the river, while farther 
 down other broughs were in sight, and we soon came across 
 the gang, a party of Mr. Gunter's men, who were busy with 
 their mid-day meal. The logs are cut and "snaked" by 
 horses out to convenient positions on the river bank, where 
 they are piled in broughs ready to be driven down with the 
 spring freshet. 
 
 We dined at a ferny glade directly across the river from 
 one of the finest specimens of abies nigra, the black spruce, 
 as one would wish to see, at least as far as size is concerned, 
 though I have seen more symmetrical trees. It towered be- 
 tween 80 and 90 feet above the river, and stands an excellent 
 type of one of the most useful of timber trees with which 
 this part of New Brunswick is abundantly blessed. At a 
 
130 
 
 point near where we stopped, the river narrowed and deep- 
 ened, with an overhanging bank on one side, which place 
 immediately woke the fishing instincts in the "kid.'' The 
 result was that, with the aid of a birch pole and some pieces 
 of ham, his fishing tackle managed to procure for us some 
 good sized trout. 
 
 A short time alter dinner, we crossed the boundary line 
 into Victoria County, through the extreme northwest corner 
 of which the Restigouche River runs. 
 
 After dinner when paddling through a somewhat longer 
 pool than usual, we noticed on the shore some tracks, which 
 were evidently worth examining, so examine them we accord- 
 ingly did. They proved to be caribou and some of them 
 were comparatively fresh. The whole point of sand on 
 which we found them was covered with track upon track like 
 mud in a barnyard. This was evidently one of the places 
 where the big fellows came down night after night to 
 drink, and probably we might have been rewarded 
 had we stayed until that evening, but as our progress had 
 not been of the rapidest, I thought it advisable to move 
 ahead. In a pool just below this, Nickolas made some 
 quick exclamation to the Indian behind, and both pointed 
 their poles in the direction of a deep run of the channel. 
 "What is it?" I asked, "Salmon!" was the reply; "a big 
 feller too; dar ! dar he go, see him?" and as he spoke a 
 dark shadow shot like lightning past the bow of the canoe, 
 and went foaming, skuttling and splashing down through 
 the rapids below. 
 
 The fact that salmon were then out of season and the 
 property of Her Majesty, and not of private individuals, did 
 not prevent the Indian hurling his pole after the rapidly re- 
 treating fish, then seizing his paddle and forcing the canoe, 
 with short, sharp, hissing strokes in the direction where the 
 waves and splashes were last seen. Like the trout of the 
 day before, the salmon was forced to double back on account 
 of shoal water, and also like the same fish, he had a com- 
 paratively narrow escape from the recovered pole of the 
 enthusiastic Nickolas. But altogether unlike his less fortunate 
 
131 
 
 cousin, he eluded canoe number two with wonderful 
 dexterity, which caused the kid to gasp in undisguised 
 amazement, and the pilot of that invaluable craft to throw 
 both canoe pole and paddle in the attempt to stop the lithe,, 
 muscular giant that churned the water into foam and bumped 
 contemptuously against the stern of the bark canoe, as he 
 swam majestically back to the depths of his pool. Two or 
 three grilse darted here and there during the excitement, but 
 were unnoticed as far as drawing a shower of missiles at 
 themselves was concerned. Nick smiled grimly, which 
 seemed to bode ill for future salmon, and remarked, "Well, 
 miss um dis time, but spouse um kin catch him some noder 
 time. Dunno, wait till by me by, den we see. Go pretty 
 dam fas' but sometimes not fas' nuff for injun, or more likely 
 not fas' nuff for sa'mon." With this threat he resumed poling. 
 
 This pool, about four miles above the Gounomitz River, 
 was the farthest up the Restigouche that I observed a 
 salmon; as far as I know there are no pools above this point 
 suited to the spawning habits of this fish. About a mile be- 
 low this we came into a salmon pool in which we counted' 
 some fourteen or fifteen fish fully grown, and a very con- 
 siderable number of grilse. 
 
 Just below this pool on the North bank of the river, we 
 found our next camping ground. That evening an exami- 
 nation of the canoes showed that, tough as they were, 
 they could not be expected to stand the dragging over stones, 
 which they had gotten during the last few days. So we de- 
 cided to stay a day in that, camp and make shoes out of the 
 cedar that was there so plentiful. 
 
 That evening after supper was over, every trace of 
 wind had died out; there was not a single cloud in the sky,, 
 and the moon, almost full, sent the long black shadows of 
 the spruces atharwt the stream, and touched the top of every 
 tree with silver. What sort of a night do you think this 
 would be to try and call moose? was the first question I put 
 to Nickolas, after the dishes had been washed and put away 
 and the fire-wood gathered in for the night; he wandered 
 out, slid down the bank to the river and stood for 
 
132 
 
 some time looking at wood and water and sky. After 
 a little while he returned and looked into the fire 
 as though undecided; finally he apparently made up his mind 
 and said, "Well, pretty good night, mebbe too much light, 
 or a good deal anyway, but don' min' dat much; no win' but 
 not very good country. Well, spose um can try, an', not 
 catch him dis time, catch some nudder time, mebbe." 
 Having delivered himself thus, he spoke a few words in 
 Malicete to the younger Indian, and the two of them started 
 on a search for suitable birch bark from which to make 
 moose horns. In a few minutes they returned, each with 
 several large sheets of new bark. 
 
 The horns used in calling moose are made of the bark ot 
 the White Birch, or Canoe Birch, as it is sometimes called, 
 on account of its use in making bark canoes. Good pliable 
 pieces of the bark are obtained as free from knots as possible. 
 It is heated before the fire, and after being carefully cut to suit 
 the taste of the artist who is constructing it, it is made into a 
 conical horn, the proportions of which differ somewhat ac- 
 cording to the ideas and voice of the man who is making it. 
 The average moose horn that I have seen is, perhaps, tour- 
 teen inches long, has an opening of about one inch at the 
 smaller end, and about six inches at the mouth or larger end. 
 It is bound with a couple of twigs of withe wood, pieces of 
 rope yarn or a few small ash splints, and is otten made to 
 stand a great deal of use, a horn frequently becoming a 
 great favorite with its owner, who perhaps through its 
 ■agency has lured many a fine specimen of the most magnifi- 
 cent of the deer tribe to his death. 
 
 The operation of making the horns in the evening in 
 question, was carried on with a good deal of care, the bark 
 being cut and rolled up, then tried with a low call, unrolled 
 slightly or perhaps rolled still tighter and tried again. Finally 
 when the practised ears of the Indians decided that it pro- 
 duced just theYight sound, it was withed tightly intothecorrect 
 shape, and, with a few final trimmings, was ready for its work. 
 
 It was not later than half-past seven when we were 
 ready to start; the two canoes, which were to be manned as 
 
133 
 
 usual, were gotten ready, and, with a final look to the rifles, 
 we quietly took our places on the piles of browse which the 
 Indians had placed in the canoes for us to sit on. We made 
 no unnecessary noise as the Indians pushed off, using the 
 wooden instead ot the steel-shod end of the canoe poles. 
 The only sounds as we started down stream was the slight 
 grating of the poles on the sand on the bottom, and the 
 click, click, of the magazines as the cartridges were pressed 
 into place. Then these latter sounds ceased, and as the 
 Indians became more careful, the former became less evident, 
 and all would be silent, until some curling ripple would show 
 where some rock lay just beneath the surface, and the water 
 would rush past as the Indian would lean forward and snub 
 the canoe into another channel. Sometimes a slight rustle 
 amid grass or ferns, a few teet away would strike the air in 
 the dead silence, and cause you to attach more importance to 
 it than it deserved. It was perhaps only the movement of a 
 mink or muskrat startled by the procession that glided past. 
 Now, after passing through some little rapid, there would 
 be a long stretch ot dark, absolutely smooth water hugging 
 close in under a bank of spruce which would run up perhaps 
 two hundred feet on the right, while on the left would 
 stretch away a piece of flat low-land lighted up by moonlight, 
 while the river itself was thrown into the deep shadow. Now 
 and then a salmon would dart across our bow, and we could 
 follow the dark wave as it coursed away up stream, and hear 
 a half smothered exclamation as it passed the other canoe, 
 which would be immediately followed by Nickolas raising 
 his finger for absolute silence. Once one of the fish actually 
 got beneath the canoe, and caused the Indian to remark in 
 sepulchral tones, and in a voice hardly audible "Got um 
 pretty big squeeze dat time." With a splash, however, the 
 fish was off again, leaving everything as silent as the tomb. 
 As we moved still further on, and more care was taken, faint 
 rustlings came from here, there and everywhere, and it 
 seemed impossible to believe that big game was now moving 
 stealthilv away as we glided on. 
 
134 
 
 Here the river would wind in a southerly direction, and 
 the moon would light it up with its silvery glare, until it 
 seemed as if we must be the most conspicuous objects for 
 miles around; then it would swing again to the east, and 
 beneath the shadow of some friendly hill, we could again 
 look out on the scene before us from our position of compara- 
 tive obscurity. It was just such a place as this, perhaps two 
 miles or more below the camp, that the Indian decided to try 
 his first call, so he pushed the canoe gently towards the right 
 bank and grounded her bow on a half sunken log without a 
 sound that was audible even to me. 
 
 On our bank rose a steep hill, spruce-clad and dark, for 
 perhaps 200 feet, while on the opposite side of the river the 
 moonlight threw weird shadows through the now almost 
 bare branches of the hard-wood that clothed the flat. 
 Laying down his paddle, he stood up with a horn, with- 
 out so much as sending a ripple across the still sur- 
 face of the water, and then through the intense stillness 
 rang out that weird indescribable challenge that broke the 
 silence as effectively as could a cannon shot, and echoed, 
 and re-echoed, roaring and bellowing back from the hills of 
 spruce. Then silence again that seemed by contrast a hun- 
 dred times more intense than before; five, ten, fifteen 
 minutes elapsed, and no sound, except the rush of the rapids 
 below, and then a second call; again no result. The silence 
 after the third call, for a few minutes, was as unbroken as 
 in former cases. Then, suddenly in the rapids below, three 
 or tour heavy splashes as of a large animal wading up 
 through the shallow water — then a pause, and finally seven 
 or eight more splashes in rapid succession. Now, I am not 
 much given to be nervous, and when the splashes could be 
 heard out of the obscurity down stream, I sat with my rifle 
 cocked, imagining what the moose would look like when he 
 loomed up in the moonlight, and thinking just where my 
 rifle sight would find its resting place before pulling the trig- 
 ger. But when the splashes ceased, tor some unaccountable 
 reason which I have not yet solved, I trembled. It seemed 
 absolutely ridiculous that a man could sit there, without 
 
135 
 
 mental excitement, and not keep shivers from running up and 
 down his spine. 
 
 For twenty minutes we waited motionless, hardly daring 
 to breathe, and there was no repetition of the splashing; 
 fifteen minutes longer and the Indian became uneasy. He 
 pushed the canoe gently from off the sunken log, and with 
 the paddle and without a sound, we again glided down 
 stream. On we went until at the brink of the little rapids 
 that we had heard in our former position, and still not a 
 sight of any living creature. With pole holding the canoe, 
 we waited for perhaps ten minutes, motionless and alert. 
 Then, from down the rapids, came a series of tremendous 
 splashes. On, on, on they came, and still, strain our eyes 
 as we would, we could see nothing. Then they ceased with 
 a splash of spray which glittered in the moonlight hardly 
 fifty yards away, and the Indian uttered a disappointed 
 grunt, accompanied by a single word which explained the 
 cause of all our waiting. Salmon ? I inquired, " Yas," 
 was the disgusted reply, "Him no answer, so tought mebbe 
 be Caribou Deer, spose um so, come down see, got left dat 
 time, mebbe catch him some nudder. You wait." The 
 last with a smile that recalled a somewhat similar remark 
 made after missing the salmon on the previous day. And 
 so ended our first night's moose call. 
 
 Poling the canoes back to camp, sometimes through 
 long pools and again through stiff rapids, would have 
 been a feat for a man not accustomed to canoes, 
 but these men took it as easily, apparently, as they 
 did going down stream. The moon was high by this 
 time, and nearly the whole river lay gleaming under its soft 
 white light. Occasionally an owl hooted, a sound which 
 we had not heard before, and, in one portion of the river not 
 far from our camp, where lay a long stretch nowhere over a 
 foot deep, we encountered a great number'of salmon running 
 up to the pools above. The Indians persisted in going over- 
 board and apparently delighted in chasing them, as does a 
 terrier a flock ot chickens. 
 
136 
 
 It was nearly eleven o'clock when we got back to camp. 
 The fire was low, so, as it was not a very cold night, we lit 
 the Primus stove and had a hot cup of Fry's cocoa. 
 
 As I lay in my sleeping bag, half dozing, it seemed that 
 from the ripple of the river outside the tent, would arise 
 great splashes, and from some dusky, ill-defined shadow, a 
 great moose would strike out into the clear moonlight, and 
 then mysteriously dissolve into thin air. 
 
 The next morning opened a day with a clear sunshine. 
 The Indians were up and at it bright and early, as usual. 
 Breakfast over, we retired to the swamp back of the camp, 
 and, in a little while, the strokes of the axes rang out in 
 rapid succession, and a few moments sufficed to bring crash- 
 ing down, a cedar suited to their purpose. 
 
 The so-called shoes used in protecting the bottoms of 
 canoes, when run through verv shoal water, as in our case, 
 are ingeniously made affairs worked from the White Cedar. 
 Out of the cedar tor each canoe, is split nine pieces perhaps 
 half an inch in thickness, which are shaved to a width of 
 about five inches at one end, tapering gradually to perhaps 
 an inch and a halt at the other end. 
 
 Five of these are laid side by side and held in their posi- 
 tion, with the wide ends together, by ash splints running 
 through each. The remaining four are put together similar- 
 ly, The canoe is inverted and the four are first placed 
 on the bottom with the wide ends amidships, while 
 the other ends are gathered together at the stern 
 and tied by rope or splint, held on notches near the 
 ends. The remaining five are then placed in a similar posi- 
 tion, and the small ends gathered up at the bow, these bow 
 shoes being sufficiently long to overlap the stern ones amid- 
 ships. The shoes are fastened in place by the ash splints, 
 which hold them together, being tied securely to the gunwale 
 or thawrts. Defined in this way, the amount of knocking 
 round which a canoe will stand, is almost incredible. 
 
 As the Indians were occupied all day, I spent the time 
 in cruising the section of the country near camp. Here the 
 river has cut its way somewhat more deeply than above, into 
 
137 
 
 the underlying' formation, which seems to be chiefly broken 
 Silurian shales, with an occasional out crop of limestone, in 
 some cases more or less metamorphic, though nowhere did 
 I see any that was or could be considered marbleized. The 
 timber, for the most part, consists as usual of spruce, though 
 on the highlands, both north and south of the river, a very 
 considerable scattering of beech, birch and maple is to be 
 found. In lower situations ash is, at times, quite plentiful.- 
 
 There are in this region several comparatively long 
 stretches of lowland along the river bank, throughout which 
 are to be found very considerable quantities of white cedar. 
 The land is sufficiently wet to keep the wood sound, and 
 many of the trees attain a very great size. In several posi- 
 tions throughout this lowland, I found as many as sixteen 
 large cedars to seven large spruce, and a large number of 
 half grown trees. I have nowhere in New Brunswick seen 
 as finely developed white cedars as on the lowlands along 
 the upper Restigouche. I came upon several bear tracks 
 during the day's tramp, none of which were very fresh, the 
 animals having by that time forsaken the river banks where 
 the last of the berries had disappeared, and retired to the 
 highland where beech nuts were sufficiently plentiful to 
 furnish them with a means of livelihood. 
 
 Down through one or two little valleys, a caribou path 
 was beaten, as though a herd of cattle passed over it every 
 morning and evening, while among the others the sharper 
 moose track was occasionally to be seen. Once, as I came 
 out upon the river, a racoon hurried away before I could 
 get a shot at him, and several times a muskrat would splash 
 into the water as I approached it, and, again a flock of tit- 
 mice would run across my path, working away with their 
 cheery little notes always in evidence, as they passed on 
 their errand of good into the deeper wilderness. Then a 
 raven or two, or perhaps an occasional crow, would wheel 
 away before I had fairly gotten a chance to see them. Then 
 that cousin of theirs, the omnipresent Canada jay, would 
 make some quiet remarks in jay language from a nearby pine, 
 tree. 
 
138 
 
 I tried to calculate the number of grilse and salmon 
 which were in and passed through one of the larger pools, 
 during the time I spent there, and believe there were about 
 eighty-eight fish in all, the time being not over two hours. 
 Some of the fish were large, but the majority of them 
 were grilse, weighing perhaps, between four and five 
 pounds. 
 
 By supper time the shoes were finished, and the evening, 
 unlike the previous ones, was cloudy. As it was full moon, 
 this was regarded as an advantage than otherwise, as far as 
 the possibilities of moose calling were concerned. "Goin' 
 git moose to-night, sure," Tom remarked, as he finished 
 washing up the supper dishes, and hung the mugs on con- 
 venient twigs of the nearby bush. I hope so, I replied, 
 Nick smiled. "Oh yas, cotch him sure dis time," and then 
 with a pause, "mebbe" as if he did not like to run the chance 
 of having his prestige as a prophet entirely destroyed. 
 
 On account of the cloudiness, it was much darker than 
 on the previous evening and the faintest trace of a breeze 
 sent, now and then, a peculiar moan through the needle- 
 like leaves of the pines and spruces. The usual caution was 
 observed, but this time we went at least a mile and a half 
 down river until we came to a rippling, purling stream 
 almost as large as the Restigouche at that point which came 
 in from the north side of the Gounomitz River. Here, on the 
 left bank of the, Restigouche is a very considerable. area of 
 lowland, several square miles in all, and covered with a 
 growth of ash, birch and maple, as is usual in such situ- 
 ations." "Good moose country" was the pleasing assurance 
 whispered by Nick, as soon as we had silently glided past 
 a few hundred yards of this lowland. Then the required 
 shielded position was found, and the two canoes grounded 
 as noiselessly as the night before, or floating quietly by a big 
 half-sunken birch, which formed an ideal situation from 
 which to see without being seen. 
 
 Owing to a slight breeze that occasionally shook the 
 tree tops and caused a few dried leaves yet clinging to the 
 tips of the branches, to flutter in an alarming manner, the 
 
139 
 
 •call did not seem to ring with the same sonorous, silence- 
 breaking effect that it did on the previous evening. 
 
 Compared with the former effect, the call was almost a 
 •disappointment, and it seemed that, if the weird bell of the 
 previous evening had succeeded in raising nothing, tonight, 
 when the note could not be heard half the distance, it must 
 necessarily be a failure. In the few minutes of silence which 
 followed the first call, the occasional faint rustle caused by 
 the hardly noticeable breeze served to bring a disappointed, 
 half deadened imagination back to full life and alert activity, 
 and by the time the second call rang out, every aberrant ripple 
 of the river, and every slight crackle of the dried fern frond 
 seemed to be the step of the looked-for giant. 
 
 The night with its uncertain and changing cloudiness, 
 was much more calculated to lead one to believe in all sorts 
 of strange figures in motion on the opposite bank of the 
 river. The third, fourth and filth call, however, passed with- 
 out any sound except those before described, to which the 
 strained senses were now becoming accustomed. The wait- 
 ers had relapsed almost into a state of indifference, and the 
 Indian bent down to again lift the horn, when suddenly a 
 sound that there could be no mistaking, broke upon the still- 
 ness, and threw the others of less magnitude into utter 
 obscurity. Far away in the tangle across the stream arose 
 a crashing and snapping as though a herd of elephants were 
 plowing through the undergrowth of young birches. For 
 perhaps a quarter of a minute there was no other sound and 
 the crackling grew louder with, once or twice, a splash, as if 
 the animal were crossing some of the smaller streams that 
 flowed through the lowland. Then, for a moment or two 
 there was silence, followed immediately by the peculiar snuff- 
 ing, whining grunt of inquiry, and then the thunder-roaring 
 magnificent challenge of the bull moose. In another instant 
 the crashing re-commenced, this time veering away to the 
 left up river. The Indian seized the horn and uttered a low 
 penetrating, half-grunt, half-moan that caused the crackling 
 to cease for a moment. It was but for a moment, however, 
 and then it began again; this time, however, trending in our 
 
140 
 
 direction. On it came until it seemed that the animal must 
 be visible a little above us on the opposite side of the 
 river. But strain our eyes as we might, we could see noth- 
 ing. Then came a silence, and what a silence it was; 
 Not daring to move a muscle, he breathed something as if it 
 must be heard on the other side of the stream. Cramped, 
 alert, silent, we waited. Perhaps five minutes passed; it 
 seemed an hour. Now some cloud, thinner than the rest, 
 would cause a light haze to sweep over the point on which 
 our eyes were fixed, and again, everything would become 
 obscure 
 
 Nickolas, with a motion so slow as to be hardly suscept- 
 able, reached down to the surface of the water and raising a 
 little in his hand, poured it splashing over the birch bark 
 horn. Instantly there was a movement across the stream. 
 All doubt seemed to have vanished from the waiting animal, 
 and, with a rustling of grass, and a clicking and grating of 
 stones, the monarch of all the Deer tribe trotted out into the 
 middle of the stream, hardly forty yards from us. Then for 
 an instant he stopped, and, with head stretched forward, 
 walked slowly and nonchalantly down the middle ot the 
 stream. In the uncertain light, the animal, seemed at least 
 ten feet in height, and the great antlers seemed as if they 
 might eclipse all previous records for breadth of span. 
 Thirty-five, thirty yards, twenty-five yards and finally twenty. 
 The Indian's paddle touched me between the shoulders, and 
 I swung the rifle with a death dealing dum-dum bullet in the 
 chamber, slowly to the right. My chance had come, and 
 with the ivory sight of the rifle gleaming white against the 
 forepart of the giant's shaggy body, I pulled the trigger. 
 The sharp crack was instantly followed by a splash and a 
 roar that seemed to shake the very hills, and the moose 
 charged in our direction. Between our canoe and the on- 
 coming animal was the birch stub which had formed so con- 
 venient a hiding place, and through its gnarled roots I fired 
 another shot. Simultaneously with it came the deeper 
 bang of a 44 calibre Winchester from the other canoe, 
 and the following instant the moose lurched forward, his 
 
141 
 
 horns striking the birch stub, hardly eight feet from us, with 
 a force apparently sufficient to kill half a dozen men. Then 
 his tore feet came up on it, and his antlers loomed above us, 
 as if a moment would see the canoe crash beneath his 
 weight, and then, in a space of time which could hardly be 
 realized, he had sunk back and fallen on his side and was 
 lashing the water with his ineffectual struggles. 
 
 No one seems to know how and when we left the canoes, 
 but the fact remains that two frantic Indians and two 
 probably no less excited white men found themselves dancing 
 round in a foot or two of water, while in the centre of the 
 group lay a bull moose stone dead. 
 
 After the first examination was over, which resulted in 
 finding that the antlers had been somewhat magnified by the 
 moonlight, but were still not to be despised, and that the 
 moose himself was in reality a giant, it was seen that the 
 first thing necessary was to get him ashore. It is difficult 
 to realize how hard it is for four rmn to haul a thousand 
 pound moose, even if he is lying in almost two feet of water. 
 Finally, with a great deal of pulling, we managed to get him 
 into deeper water and drag him along to a place where the 
 channel ran close under the bank. Here he was partly 
 dragged ashore, until the ropes, which were carried for just 
 such a contingent, could be gotten into service. These were 
 then thrown over a stout branch of a nearby spruce, and 
 with a great deal of belaying and taking in the slack, the 
 moose was finally hoisted well out of reach of any passing 
 fox. 
 
 "Mebbe goin' to rain tomorrow," was the first remark 
 Tom made on returning to the canoe, after his exertions, 
 Perhaps we better cut him up tonight, I suggested. "Well, 
 spose urn can do dat" replied Nick, "mebbe if we do, better 
 get um to work now." So the lantern was gotten from the 
 canoes and lighted, and the operation of skinning begun. It 
 was over an hour before the axes and knives had finished 
 their work, and the canoes were loaded ready to get back 
 to camp again; it was between two and three o'clock before 
 the triumphal procession, consisting of two canoes, of which 
 
142 
 
 the bow of the foremost was decorated by a moose head, 
 reached the tent again. 
 
 The fire was nothing but a pile of white ashes, and rain 
 began to fall gently. Everyone was wet and everyone was 
 satisfied, and when on the road to slumber, there were no 
 visions of a point of deep obscurity and a vanishing moose, 
 to cause trouble. 
 
 The next day, October 18, was wet, so we decided not 
 to attempt to continue our journey as we had no tarpaulins 
 with which to cover our bedding or provisions. Part of the 
 day I spent in the camp writing up notes on the surrounding 
 country, and later decided to see what more I could see in 
 the surrounding woods. Putting on my wet weather rig, I 
 started North from the river bearing away some distance 
 into the highlands on that side of the valley. In this region 
 the timber consisted of mixed evergreen with a plentiful 
 sprinkling of deciduous trees. Among the spruce on the 
 high ridges here, I saw some of the finest timber that was 
 noted during the trip; a considerable proportion of trees 
 girding seven feet or th.reabouts. 
 
 Occasionally I came actoss an enormous solitary specimen 
 of the white pine, once perhaps the most valuable timber 
 tree in the Province, but now very thoroughly called. Some 
 of these trees would girt ten feet and upwards at the base, 
 they were not in sufficient quantities, however, to warrant 
 operations on their account alone. Through this region 
 also, I found several outcrops of the more or less meta 
 morphosed limestone. Before, in one or two valleys, I came 
 across a considerable number of deer tracks, as if the place 
 had been a near rendezvous of these timid and beautiful 
 denizens of the northern wilderness. The deer referred to is 
 the American or Virginian deer, which is now found in great 
 quantities throughout the whole Province, even in the most 
 civilized districts, in some places being so common as to 
 become a nuisance. 
 
 The meat of the Virginian deer is delicious in flavor and 
 fine in grain, and is a great favorite of lovers of good veni- 
 son; the result is, that as soon as the season opens, the 
 
143 
 
 markets are plentifully stocked with the most beautiful of the 
 deer tribe found in the Province of New Brunswick I 
 flushed several coveys of ruffed grouse, but having no shot- 
 gun and not following birds up, I got none during the 
 walk. 
 
 Nowhere in the Province, or for that matter, anywhere 
 have I seen terns as plentiful as in this portion of the upper 
 Restigouche region. The majority of them were now, here 
 as along the portage road, frost-bitten and broken, but 
 sufficient evidence of their enormous number was still on 
 every hand. I have never traversed this region in Summer 
 but the contrast must be very marked between that season 
 and the late Autumn. Now, where hardly a bird's note is 
 heard, then .every thicket would be alive with thrushes, 
 warblers, fly-catchers and wrens, making the wilderness 
 seem far less wilderness than could be realized later in the 
 year. 
 
 When I returned to camp one would judge from the 
 sounds that issued from the tent that a possible horde of 
 street singers had been captured and pressed into service. 
 Everyone was in good humor, not that they had not been 
 during the previous portion of the trip, but they now seemed 
 in exceptionally good humor. Probably it was the change 
 of diet from salt meats to fresh venison. 
 
 By evening the sky had cleared again, and thus 
 ended the only day of rain which was experienced during the 
 journey- Before nine o'clock the evening had become cold, 
 and encouraged by the success of the night before, we decid- 
 ed to go up stream, this time to where we had seen caribou 
 tracks, and wait there for what might turn up. The same 
 silence was preserved, and the precautions taken were, if 
 possible, greater than before. But a four hours wait gave 
 no result except the creation of four wonderful appetites, 
 which forced the Primus to hiss away for half an hour in an 
 endeavor to satisfy. 
 
 As we had been forced to lose two whole days at this 
 point, dawn the next morning saw us eating breakfast in 
 preparation for a long day's run down river; in a little while 
 
144 
 
 afterwards, we were underway, and the pile of browse, with 
 the ashes of the camp fire, were the only things left to 
 indicate that human beings had been there. 
 
 We passed the mouth of the Gounomitz River, stopping 
 only long enough to take a photograph of the lovely little 
 stream as it flowed out through the head waters over its bed 
 of pebbles to where the struggle of but a short time before 
 had taken place, and of which now not a sigh remains, and 
 everything looked far less romantic under the influence of 
 the morning light. 
 
 About five miles below the Gounomitz, after we had 
 crossed the boundary into Restigouche County, we came 
 upon a road leading from the river into one of the lumber 
 camps, near it on the river bank were large quantities of 
 stores and provisions. These provisions are brought up the 
 river from Campbellton, 130 odd miles from its source, 
 by long scows which are towed by three horses. These 
 scows are eighty feet long and eight feet wide, drawing as 
 much as a foot of water when loaded; each scow carrying 
 about seven tons of fodder and provisions. The same type 
 of scow, with a house built upon it, is used in conveying 
 parties of sportsmen up to the regions where moose and 
 caribou are plentiful. As the houses are provided with stoves 
 and comfortable beds, this is indeed a luxurious method of 
 travelling. The charge usually made for conveying parties 
 up river in a scow of this sort is $10 per day; this covering 
 the cost of scow, three horses and two or three men. One 
 of these scows was lying beside a less pretentious cousin 
 used by the lumbermen. As the sugar showed some signs 
 of disappearing before the time apportioned it, Tom made 
 reconnaissance in force — with an axe in one hand — in the 
 direction of the lumbermen's molasses barrel, and succeeded, 
 after some careful manipulating with a hardwood wedge and 
 a spike, in getting one of the sauce-pans full of that remark- 
 able Porto Rico product, connected with thoughts of our 
 childhood and huge slices of bread. 
 
 It is an understood thing in the life of Canad'an woods- 
 men, that, if anyone is running short of provisions, he is to 
 
145 
 
 help himself from the first cache that turns up, so, with 
 guiltless conscience we proceeded. 
 
 For some time I had been expecting to meet with Mr. 
 Fantin Tynan, whose whole title is Dominion Government 
 Fish Warden of the Restigouche River from the mouth of the 
 Quatawamkedgewick to the head-waters. This individual is 
 famous among sportsmen and poachers alike as being the 
 most fearless man in the discharge ot his duties in this sec- 
 tion of the country. 
 
 Several miles below our molasses depot as we rounded 
 the bend and came out on a straight stretch ot the river, we 
 saw about one hundred and filty yards down stream, a man 
 poling a dug-out in our direction, and decided that this must 
 be the gentleman in question; on nearer approach this proved 
 to be the case. The dug-out — a long proa shaped canoe 
 . hollowed out of a single log- — had evidently seen many vicis- 
 situdes, and, as my assistant said, was somewhat frayed at 
 the edges. Amidships were his camping and bedding ma- 
 terials, a good-sized waterproof box to hold provisions, and 
 the omnipresent frying-pan; while in the bow sat an enorm- 
 ous and not too friendly looking dog, who, as the Irishman 
 himself is very deaf, supplied the ears of the combination. 
 The guardian stood erect in the stern of his peculiar craft and 
 poled along to meet us, regarding us suspiciously. After 
 discovering from our appearance that we were probably not 
 poachers, but must necessarily belong to the other class (he 
 only knew two) and be sportsmen, his first salutation was, 
 "Good day? Did you see any blankety-blank Madawaska 
 Frenchmen up river?" On being informed that, with the 
 exception of lumber crews, we were the only men between 
 him and the head-waters, and would not long come under 
 that classification, he seemed satisfied. 
 
 I presented my letters of introduction, which the Fishery 
 
 • Commissioner, Mr. D. G. Smith, had very kindly given me, 
 but these, however, did not prevent him poling over and 
 taking a furtive glance into the canoes to see it there were 
 
 . any salmon in sight. He then began recounting some of his 
 late experiences with poachers from the adjoining county 
 
146 
 
 before mentioned, and interesting' enough they were too. 
 Just to give one which he himself had not told me, it may 
 have been his modesty that prevented him, or he may have 
 forgotten it, but which was recounted by some other man 
 who had heard it from one of the principal actors in the 
 scene. It appears that a party ot six guileless Acadians- 
 from Madawaska County had portaged through from the 
 head-waters of the Grand River to the Restigouche, with, 
 two dug-outs and a considerable amount of apparatus (nets,, 
 etc.) with the intention of capturing the wily salmon out of 
 season. Now it may have been that a cork net float escaped' 
 and went bobbing serenely down stream and came under the 
 notice ot the river guardian, or it may be the dog's sense of 
 smell had so developed as to extend through thirty miles of 
 wilderness under favorable conditions of the wind, or again, 
 it may be that the peculiar condition of Mr. Tynan's hearing . 
 were such that, though you had to shout at him from a 
 distance oi a yard or so, that he could hear sounds which 
 came from the remotest distance, in the way that far-sighted 
 people can see objects some distance away, yet will not be 
 able to distinguish those near at hand. But whatever the 
 reason may have been, and no one knows except the guard- 
 ian himself, Mr. Tynan turned up at the camp of the six 
 Frenchmen, when the proprietors were not in sight; the dog 
 wandered around and devoured anything that suited his taste, 
 and the warden himself occupied his time in chopping holes 
 in the larger of the two hostile dug-outs. 
 
 . Then the owners returned, and the odds were six to one. 
 The river guardian, true to his duty, and nowise daunted, 
 backed two of the men out into the middle of the stream at 
 the point of a revolver, and made them kneel down in the 
 icy water and swear that, if he let them go that they would 1 
 never stop except to eat and sleep, until they reached their 
 homes in Madawaska again, and that if he ever caught them 
 on the Restigouche River again, he would — well it is need- 
 less to say anything further, for the other four were so ter- 
 rorized that all immediately came to terms. Two men poled 
 the remaining canoe up the Restigouche and the Wagan, 
 
147 
 
 fiver, and the other four tramped forty odd miles through the 
 wilderness back to a road again, and it is recorded that they 
 have found farming a more remunerative pursuit than catch- 
 ing Her Majesty's salmon. 
 
 After talking some little time with the warden, who had 
 been occasionally eyeing the moose-head furtively, he asked 
 to see our licenses which were forthwith produced, and I 
 finally left him with a promise to send along a print of a 
 picture that I took of him in his dug-out, much, to his appar- 
 ent edification. He informed us that the Qauatawmkedge- 
 wick opened in about eight miles further down stream, and 
 we decided that we could make some distance beyond that 
 river for reaching our camp of that night. We had hardly 
 left Mr. Tynan a mile behind before, in one of the small 
 rapids, a much enthusiastic grilse in his rush up stream 
 came too close to to the canoe for the nerve of the 
 Indian; the result was that, in spite of the awe-inspir- 
 ing effect that Mr. Tynan should have had, Nick's canoe pole 
 made a vicious jab at the rapidly running fish, and, as luck 
 would have it, the pole struck home, and in an instant I was, 
 as is usually the case under such conditions, left to guide 
 the canoe to some place where she would ground, and to 
 sit passively and watch the struggle. It was not of long 
 duration; the half stunned grilse made a few desperate 
 rushes, each time to be met by the active Indian, until 
 finally the fish turned, throwing up a splash as he en- 
 deavored to avoid his pursuer. Nickolas seized the 
 advantage, and the pole shot into the centre of the troubled 
 water, emerging with the grilse securely pinned on it through 
 the gills. " Dar'' was the remark, " I tol dose sa'mon day 
 was purty quick, but spose um some time not quick nuff fur 
 injun; mebbe good time havin' dinner now." Everybody 
 was agreed to this, and to broiled venison was added 
 poached salmon. 
 
 Before the grilse went into the frying-pan, I got a pic- 
 ture of both the victor and his victim. Then, when the meal 
 was finished, we started again in the direction of the Quata- 
 wamkedgewick. On approaching this river, the land 
 
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148 
 
 becomes very considerably higher, and more resembles the- 
 typical lower Restigouche, which is a very different, and, in 
 many respects, a very much more beautiful stream, than near 
 the head-waters. 
 
 The Quatawamkedgewick itself, or the Kedgewick, as it 
 is often abbreviated, is the second largest of the tribu- 
 taries of the Restigouche, and flows in from the northwest 
 side of that river about thirty miles below the mouth of 
 the Wagan. It is a long river, its branches ramnifying 
 through almost the whole of the extreme western portion 
 of Restigouche County. By some it is deemed so important 
 as to be considered the main Restigouche, while the portion 
 flowing from the southwest, into which the Gounamitz flows 
 and down which we came, should, according to their idea 
 be considered a branch. This I do not think, is justifiable. 
 The Kedgewick flows into the Restigouche in a broad, open, 
 alluvial plain which is partly cleared, and a single farm house 
 is here situated. 
 
 Just after the Kedgewick enters the Restigouche river 
 there is a considerable stretch of rapid, not dangerous, 
 but through which the water flows very rapidly. At the 
 foot of this rapid is situated one of the finest salmon pools 
 on the river, and here we came upon the first of the lodges 
 of the Restigouche Salmon Club, the headquarters of which 
 are situated at the mouth of the Matapedia river, only 
 thirteen miles above Campbellton. The salmon pool below 
 the Kedgewick, besides being a fine fishing pool, is very 
 beautiful, on one side the rocks descending sheer into the 
 pool from a considerable height, and on the other the hard- 
 wood land sloping upward gradually, forms quite a hill. 
 
 A mile or two below this pool, whose silence and depth 
 of the bottom — often being far out of sight — appear in 
 strange contrast to the rest of the river, we met the first of 
 the lumber camp supply scows which we had yet come 
 across in motion. Two or three men stood on the bow with, 
 long poles ready to snub the scow to one side or the other 
 so that the rocks might be avoided and the channel followed 
 as well as possible. The horses, one hundred and fifty feet 
 
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149 
 
 ahead, now walked clanking along the stony beach, now- 
 waded through the channel or splashed along the shallows. 
 A man at the stern of the scow steered as best he could 
 with a big cumbersome pivot swape," and along the 
 shore the scow tramped a crowd of lumbermen, going in for 
 the winter. Now they would hurl delicate jokes at each 
 other, now throw stones at the man riding the horses, then 
 a few words of counsel and wisdom would be offered to the 
 men on the scow, which were generally returned with some 
 mock vituperations that only served to illicit further advice 
 usually accompanied with a shower of stones, which were 
 calculated to do no further harm than thoroughly soak the 
 man at whom they were hurled. 
 
 Thus we would proceed until some little rapid was 
 reached and the horses would be fastened close up to the 
 scow and the struggle would begin. The three horses which 
 are always hitched abreast, would feel their way out into the 
 deeper channel, guided by the man who rode the central one. 
 The scow would swing out behind and then would come the 
 tug-of-war. Up stream through the swift current we would 
 go, until one horse would be perhaps carried off his feet, but 
 in. a moment or two he would regain them again, and a few 
 seconds would suffice to get into shallower water. Then the 
 rapid would be lengthened out once more, and the duties of 
 the man on horse-back would be less arduous. This parti- 
 cular scow had made not less than twenty-three miles, under 
 the circumstances, that day. 
 
 We got a cheery greeting as we passed, with a con- 
 siderable number of questions regarding the hostility of the 
 tribes that inhabited the interior, and, after answering these 
 to the best of our ability, we passed on to find our camping 
 place. This was on the left bank of the river among some 
 young swamp willows, a different situation than we had yet 
 had. 
 
 The next morning, October 21, it was decided that we 
 should discard the shoes as we had no further use for them, 
 the river having become sufficiently deep to obviate any 
 danger of injuring the canoes. Before they were taken off 
 
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 I took a picture of them to give an idea of their construction. 
 The day was as clear as any previous, and we hoped to 
 make the mouth of the Patapedia, another of the larger 
 tributaries ot the Restigouche, like the Quatawamkedgewick 
 running into the river from the north side. The Patapedia 
 forms a portion of the boundary line between New Bruns- 
 wick and Quebec; it takes its rise in several lakes in the 
 last named province. 
 
 The land between the Kedgewick and Patapedia is very 
 much higher than we had previously encountered. A large 
 portion of one section of it had been burned and is now 
 becoming covered with a second growth of young hard-wood. 
 
 There was but one incident of unusual interest during 
 the day, and this was a few miles above the Patapedia river, 
 just above Stillwater Brook. We were passing through one 
 of the smaller rapids or "rough-waters" when, on the right 
 bank of the river which arose steeply lor three hundred leet 
 or more, and was almost bare, 1 heard a stone roll down, 
 and looked around to see the cause. High up on the hill- 
 side, just beneath a place where the bank was almost vertical, 
 was a deer, which had evidently been making its way up 
 from the river bank below. It was a doe. It watched us 
 for a second half curiously, then turned and tried to scamper 
 up the almost perpendicular face of the bank above it. It 
 was a good two hundred yards away, and the canoe was 
 rocking and bouncing on the troubled water. I knelt in the 
 bottom and fired; no effect except to detach a piece of rock 
 six or eight feet from the deer, and send it rolling down until 
 it clatteredonto the beach below. Again I fired; then came two 
 shots in quick succession from the other canoe, the Indians 
 in both cases trying vainly to keep the little crafts steady 
 enough to enable one to get a satisfactory shot. The deer 
 bounded and struggled this way and that, and shot after 
 shot from the rifle rang out as though a considerable 
 skirmish were in progres. But the deer was gaining ground 
 now walking this way and now that, but always getting 
 nearer the top. After another shot detached a stone of con- 
 siderable size, which, though it hardly touched the deer on 
 
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151 
 
 its way down caused him to loose his footing- and roll for 
 perhaps ten feet, I thought I had killed him, but su ch was 
 evidently not the case. In an instant he was up and, in a few 
 seconds had regained his lost ground. 
 
 The bullets, under the influence of the smokeless powder 
 threw up red clouds of dust sometimes but a hand breadth 
 from the deer, but always just passing- him, and finally, 
 with one or two parting shots, we had the mortification of 
 seeing- him, with one mighty effort, spring- to the top of the 
 bank, and, with a bound, disappear from view. The Indian 
 laughed, "Never hit him once," was the remark. Well, I 
 bet you would not have hit him either, I answered. "Me 
 fire three time, but hit tird time sure." Perhaps, I said; 
 but I have my doubts, and for that matter, I still have them. 
 I never counted the number of shots I fired at that deer, and 
 I am not going to either. But then there is the usual "if" 
 and it is this: If either of us had thought of getting out in 
 the rapids, we could have got steady footing and possibly 
 have gotten the deer. 
 
 We camped that night on an open space, around which 
 the river flowed with its shores almost as evenly cut as 
 a canal. We had shot several grouse on the way down, 
 and a few more were got within a few yards ot the camp. The 
 deer formed the subject of conversation for some time after 
 the tea dishes were washed, and the Indians were having 
 their smoke when we were interrupted by the sounds of an 
 approaching scow with her crew. They had aimed for the 
 same camping ground that we did, but likely we had gotten 
 there before them. They camped alongside us, however, in 
 almost as good a situation, and once again we heard 
 the champ, champ, champ, of the horses to lull us to slumber. 
 
 The party contained among others, two of the most 
 expert hunters in northern New Brunswick, and many a tale 
 of spritely deer, of fleet and wary caribou, and of giant moose 
 went the rounds, before the fire had burned itself low and we 
 turned in for the night. 
 
 Long before dawn the next morning, October 21, the 
 scow's crew was ready to get off; as soon as the first streak 
 
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152 
 
 •of daylight had glinted over the tops of the dark trees, and 
 by the time that our breakfast was ready and our 
 horses were hitched, the big scow swung off, and they 
 were at it again tor another twelve hours. By that night they 
 would make some point above the Quatawamkegewick, 
 perhaps even to their destination, which was a few miles 
 above that river. 
 
 Just before we left, another smaller scow came up the 
 river from the mouth of the Patapedia. She was towed by 
 a single horse, and her crew consisted of two men. They 
 were taking a sledge in over a portage road to one of the 
 numerous " dead waters," to bring out a moose which had 
 been shot a few nights before, and, incidentally to get one 
 or two more if possible, while they were there. 
 
 The first point of interest in our journey of that day, 
 was the mouth of the Patapedia river, which was situated 
 about three miles below the camp. This river, as before 
 mentioned, forms part of the boundary line between Quebec 
 and New Brunswick, so that henceforth, on our trip down 
 the Restigouche, the right bank would be New Brunswick 
 and the left Quebec. 
 
 Three or four miles below the Patapedia, is situated 
 probably the finest ox-bow on the Restigouche river. Here 
 the river sweeps round in a magnificent curve, while across 
 the bow, a short-cut has been made through which a large 
 portion of the spring freshet flows. On the upper stretch of 
 this bow, is situated another of those fine salmon pools, with 
 which the river abounds, and here is another of the cosy 
 lodges for the convenience of salmon fishermen. 
 
 A mile or two below the ox-bow, we came to Cross Point, 
 one of the scenic attractions of this portion of the river. 
 Here about eight miles below the mouth of the Patapedia, 
 the river makes a sharp bend on itself, so sharp, in fact, that 
 two points, a mile or more apart in the course of the river, 
 are separated by only about one hundred yards. At this 
 point there is a high rocky ridge, running up to a sharp-knife 
 edge between three and four hundred feet above the river. 
 
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 Farther down stream, the bank can be readily climbed, and 
 a position on this dividing ridge attained. 
 
 The view from here is perfectly magnificent. As you 
 face southeast, the river lies at your feet on both sides of the 
 ridge and circles round behind you. You can look far to the 
 south and see it as it flows down from the wilderness; then it 
 is hardly necessary to turn your head to look down a long 
 stretch to the east, as the stream flows on its course towards 
 civilization. 
 
 On the very top of the ridge, where it can be seen for 
 several miles either up or down stream, someone has planted 
 a rough wooden cross, which serves to mark the mecca ot 
 the Pilgrim sight-seer. We climbed the ridge getting photo- 
 graphs of its beauty, and breathing in the air that comes 
 fresh and clear over thousands of square miles of New Bruns- 
 wick forest. 
 
 When we got to the canoes again, the afternoon was 
 well along. As we rounded the extreme point, we met with 
 another scow on its way up river. This one was loaded 
 entirely with hay, part of the very considerable amount that 
 has to be taken up to each lumber camp for the consumption 
 of the horses during the winter. 
 
 Near the foot of the stretch below Cross Point, lies 
 another of the finer salmon pools. Hills on both sides run 
 up to four or five hundred feet, and are clothed almost 
 entirely with hard wood, though here and there, the dark 
 green path of spruce shows up. 
 
 Never have I seen water that showed a more limpid 
 .green, and the pool encircled by hills is almost always calm. 
 In the early Autumn, the hillsides on both banks ot the river 
 form a perfect blaze of gorgeous colouring, on account of the 
 great number of maples. 
 
 The shadows had fallen deep over the beautiful river by 
 the time we had reached the pool, and a short distance below 
 it, as the river makes a sharp turn to the northwest, we 
 again pitched our tent, and the next morning, clear as the 
 ■ones preceding it, saw us again en route down river. 
 
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 The scene throughout this part of the country is indeed 
 very beautiful. There is not a feature to mar this beauty; no 
 burnt land, and the banks are lined with great quantities of 
 large birches, beeches and maples, the river is changed from 
 a rippling brook to a river indeed. Though not a very large 
 river, even yet here and there, a slight rapid is encountered, 
 and often a long absolutely uninterrupted curving stretch of 
 calm water; while everywhere lies the hills becoming higher 
 and higher as we advance down stream, and also more 
 picturesque and beautiful. 
 
 Shortly after getting into camp, when Moulton had 
 gone down to the shore to get the last piece of dunnage, we 
 heard the bushes crackle from an unexpected quarter, and 
 the Indian came quietly into camp remarking that "Dar was 
 some caribou comin' down little brook troo de hill over 
 midder side de river, an' better tak' de rifle out." This 
 advice, ot course, was immediately followed, and the entire 
 party stole quiety down to the edge and waited. At 
 first we could hear no sound, then occasionally a rustle some 
 little distance up on the hill on the opposite side of the 
 stream, denoted that something was moving. It was a con- 
 siderable distance, perhaps two hundred and fifty yards, but 
 as the air was perfectly quiet, the slightest sound was thrown 
 from hill to hill with perfect distinctness, and now and then 
 a sharper crack would be heard, and then silence again. 
 
 After a rather longer period of silence than usual, the 
 whole thing did not last more than two or three minutes — a 
 movement was seen in the low bushes near where the mouth 
 of the little gurgling brooklet ran into the river, and then 
 with perfect fearlessness and apparent unconcern, three 
 caribou stalked down to the river and started to wade across. 
 It was half dusk, but we could see the big antlers of the 
 male as he swung his graceful head, now high in the air, 
 and now down till his nose touched the water. They waded 
 along in a matter-of-fact way, until near the middle of the 
 stream, the point where they would land was at least eighty 
 yards below us; so we decided that this was the best chance 
 we could have, especially as the light was better over the 
 
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 river. I raised my rifle sighted as best I could, and fired at 
 the biggest of the three animals. He dropped for an instant 
 and the others turned and bounded down stream, then back 
 to the other shore followed by two or three shots in rapid 
 succession from my companion's rifle. Then the big caribou 
 struggled and rose; turned his head this way and that as it 
 undecided where to run. I took hasty aim and fired again. 
 This time I evidently missed him, as he turned and ran to- 
 ward the other bank. When firing the third, the light was 
 so uncertain, that I must have missed again. 
 
 By the time the giant had reached the shore, he took 
 two or three bounds in the direction of the woods and then 
 stopped, stood stock-still for a second, and sunk down on 
 his haunches. Another second saw four men in two canoes 
 poling and paddling over the deeper portion of the river — 
 for the water here was not over four or five feet — and then,, 
 leaping out and splashing their way to where the caribou 
 lay, now perfectly dead. The animal was not large, but the 
 head was a splendid one; the antlers having thirty-five points 
 in all. 
 
 By our united efforts, we managed to half-drag, half- 
 carry him into the river, and with the aid of the two canoes 
 and poles, we piloted him safely across, and lugged him up 
 to the mouth of the little path that ran down from our tent 
 to the river. 
 
 We had been hungry before, but this experience added 
 a zest to our appetites that enabled us to dispose of more 
 pounds of the unfortunate moose, that we had gotten at a 
 point that now seemed far away in the wilderness, than we 
 could possibly have done \ nder ordinary circumstances. 
 
 It was well that the water in the river was considerably 
 deeper, as the canoes were becoming so heavily laden, that 
 it would have been impossible to have gotten through places 
 like those to be found in the upper stretches of the river. 
 
 The night was clear, and colder than any we had yet had, 
 and as soon as the moon, now some days past the full, was 
 up over the hills on the opposite bank of the river, with its 
 light and that of the camp lantern, we skinned and cut up 
 
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 the caribou, which operation was finished in a remarkably 
 short time, and everything' was ready for the night. 
 
 By ten o'clock it was very frosty; the moon had risen 
 well above the hill, and everything was covered with its light. 
 Never have I seen a more beautiful moonlight picture than 
 that long' clear stretch of the river, from the surface of which 
 was reflected the hills, as the)" towered aloft on both sides, 
 both up and down stream. 
 
 When I went back to camp, a big fire had made thing's 
 cosy and comfortable. The Indians were sitting beside it 
 •engaged in skinning a few mink and muskrat, which the) 
 had shot on the way down during the dav. The skins were 
 then turned wrong side out and stretched on boards to dry, 
 and we turned in for another night's rest. 
 
 The next day, October 22, from sunrise to sunset, was 
 almost absolutely cloudless. Just cool enough for comfort, 
 it was an ideal day ot the late Autumn; a day when the air 
 made itself felt as though it \vere another medium than usual. 
 
 But a short distance below camp, we passed the mouth 
 ■of Ferguson's Brook, and just here were situated Ferguson'.s 
 Rapids, one of the heaviest rapids on the river, and again, a 
 mile or two below this brook, about half-way between it and 
 Red Pine Brook, we came to one of the most beautiful hill 
 and river scenes to be found on the whole course of the 
 Restigouche. Here the river winds in and out between great 
 spruce and birch-covered hills, that plunge rapidly down and 
 are out lined against each other in beautiful contrast. 
 
 Today was to bring us into the beginning of the first at- 
 tempt at continuous civilization found so-far, in our course 
 down river, for in the middle of the} afternoon, after passing- 
 through Heroes Rapids, we came out at Chain of Rocks, a vil- 
 lage consisting of two houses, with the nearest grocery store 
 situated twenty-two miles distant at Matapedia. The entire 
 family from one of those houses turned out to greet us, and 
 in numbers they were, though it seemed at first impossible, 
 stronger than some of their neighbors in Madawaska. 
 
 We\vere here presented with a fat gosling — for a con- 
 sideration — on the condition that we captured him ourselves. 
 
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 After the entire family had chased the flock of geese for some 
 ten minutes, I managed after getting about ten feet from the 
 gosling in question, to put a bullet through his head, much 
 to the edification of the spectators, who informed me that I was 
 a great shot, and that I should have been there ten about 
 minutes before, as two caribou had just been down to the 
 river to drink, at a point about one hundred yards from the 
 house. 
 
 I may remark that the portion of the Province south of 
 the Restigouche river, in this region, has probably more 
 caribou to the square mile than any other part of the country. 
 In the higher lands in this vicinity, I have seen caribou paths 
 beaten as thoroughly as if herds of cattle were driven over 
 them every day. 
 
 Then we came to what was to be our resting' place that 
 night, a few miles below Chain-of-Rocks. 
 
 " 'Twa's one of those g'lorious Autumn eves, 
 
 As the beautiful sun sank low, 
 It tinted the s'rounding" western sky 
 
 With a molten, golden glow ; 
 As 'twere giving a glimpse of Heaven 
 
 To us mortals here below." 
 
 It was one of the finest sunsets that I have ever seen, 
 and the Maritime Provinces of Canada are famous for 
 beautiful sunsets. The goose which we had gotten during 
 the day, spluttered away in the baker for the greater part of 
 the evening; and early in the morning, when the first of the 
 Indians got up to waken the fire, the goose was replaced in 
 his former position, and, by breakfast time, was ready to be 
 eaten. The fact had not been misrepresented, as far as the 
 bird's tenderness was concerned, and, though not exactly a 
 breakfast dish, in the civilized acceptance of that term, the 
 goose was most decidedly a success. 
 
 The pink glow of the sunlight had hardly merged into the 
 light of another day, before we were again ready to move. 
 From this point down, houses were not infrequent, one turn- 
 ing up on an average of every few miles, and here and there 
 
Looking up Restigouche River from High Bank 
 over Ox-Bow, above Cross Point. 
 
158 
 
 a fishing lodg'e, wherever a sufficiently well situated pool was 
 to be found. 
 
 In the course of the morning', we rounded a bend in the 
 river, and straight ahead of us, eight or nine miles down 
 stream, came in sight of Squaw Cap Mountain, the third 
 highest in New Brunswick, twenty-two hundred feet above 
 the sea level. It loomed up like a lonely volcanic cone among 
 the lower hills around it. 
 
 In a little while we reached the mouth of the Upsalquitch 
 river, the most important tributaty o'f the Restigouche, 
 which flows in from the south side, about twenty-one miles 
 above Campbellton. Here are more salmon lodges, and 
 very prettily situated too. The Squaw Cap mountain is 
 situated about four miles southeast of the mouth of the 
 Upsalquitch, and a short distance north of it is Slate moun- 
 tain, some two thousand feet in height. 
 
 From the top of the Squaw Cap, and from a point on 
 the westerly side, one can look over more than eight thou- 
 sand square miles of New Brunswick, and see, on a distant 
 horizon, Mars Hill and Mount Katahdin in State of Maine; 
 the latter with its height of five thousand five hundred feet, 
 being over two-hundred miles distant. Away dead south 
 lies Bald Mountain at the headwaters of the Nepisiquit and 
 Tobique rivers, with its companion, Twin Mountain, a little 
 to the eastward; while beside them looms up Teneriffe, so- 
 named on account of its resemblance to the famous volcanic 
 cone. Even in the Province itself, there are but compara- 
 tively few eyes that have ever rested on these three sisters of 
 the wilderness. 
 
 To the south of Squaw Cap Mountain and running ap- 
 parently along its base, the silver thread of the Upsalquitch 
 winds in and out, and drains the whole central portion of the 
 County of Restigouche. Around the head-waters of this 
 river, especially around Upsalquitch Lake, from which it is 
 but a short portage into the Nepisiquit river, lies what is 
 undoubtedly the finest moose and caribou country in the 
 Province of New Brunswick. As a moose country, this par- 
 ticular region is probably unexcelled if equalled, in the world, 
 
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159 
 
 and, as far as the caribou are concerned, it is improbable 
 that anyone could wish them more plentiful than through this 
 paradise of the big-game hunter. 
 
 Both branches of this river, the southwest and south- 
 east, lie absolutely in the wilderness, and, for the most part, 
 are tree from even the civilizing influence of the lumberman. 
 
 The country can be reached in a variety of ways ; up 
 the Restigouche to the mouth of the Upsalquitch, then up the 
 Upsalquitch to its head-waters; or, from Andover, on the St. 
 John river, one may go up the Tobique to Nictor Lake, 
 portage across the Nepisiquit Lake, at the headwaters of the 
 Nepisiquit river; then travel down the river to portage 
 brook, and across by portage again, to Upsalquitch Lake, 
 finishing the trip by going down the Upsalquitch river, and 
 down the Restigouche to Campbellton; again the region can 
 be reached by going up the Nepisiquit river from Bathurst in 
 Gloucester County, on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, until port- 
 age brook is reached, and then portaging to Upsalquitch 
 Lake as before. This is perhaps the most practical method 
 of reaching the Lake region, though the Tobique route is 
 also an excellent one, there being in this case, the additional 
 advantage that excellent guides can be procured among the 
 Malicetes at the mouth of the Tobique river. 
 
 But to return to the Squaw Cap mountain. The path to 
 this famous hill — and the trip is one that will never be 
 regretted — runs through a tangle of undergrowth which is 
 kept open by the numerous bears that traverse it. 
 
 The man who acted as our guide, when I climbed the 
 mountain, in company with a number of the members of the 
 Summer School of Science, in August, 1899, informed me 
 that he had taken thirteen bears by traps set along this 
 particular path. When the mountain itself is reached, you 
 have to contend for fifteen hundred feet or more, with a 
 steep slope of broken shales and slates. The panorama 
 that opens out as one gets higher and higher, is beautiful in 
 the extreme. 
 
 To the northwest lies the Province of Quebec, running 
 through which, in both directions as far as the eye can 
 

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 reach, can be seen the Notre Dame Mountains. The Resii- 
 gouche valley with the glittering river, also winds away in 
 this direction towards the wilderness and bending around to 
 the westward its valley can be traced for a long distance. 
 To the south as before mentioned, can be seen the Upsal— 
 quitch valley and the mountains, while to the west stretches 
 the apparently interminable wilderness. From the eastern 
 face the Sugar Loaf mountain, just back of Campbellton, 
 some twenty odd miles distant, is visible, while beyond, half 
 hidden in a white haze, stretches the beautiful Bay Chaleur, 
 and to the southeast all is wilderness again. 
 
 Just opposite the mouth of the Upsalquitch, lies the 
 beautiful little settlement of Runnymede, an almost perfectly 
 flat alluvial plain, on which are several fine farms; while a 
 little farther down river, on the opposite side of the stream 
 is Dawsonville, nestling at the base of Slate Mountain. Be- 
 tween the Upsalquitch and Dawsonville, the road runs 
 along the steep base of Slate Mountain, two or three 
 hundred feet above the river almost directly below, 
 and from the birches that cover the side hill, you can look 
 down as you drive along, over the green fields and pretty 
 farms of Runnymede. This particular region is, perhaps in 
 some respects, the finest from a scenic point of view, in the 
 Province of New Brunswick. 
 
 Just below Dawsonville is situated the worst rapid, and 
 for that reason, the most interesting to shoot, on the Resti- 
 gouche river. None of the rapids on the Restigouche can be 
 said to be dangerous, though this one is the nearest approach 
 to anything of the sort. If a canoe were overturned in such 
 a rapid as this, probably the only bad result would be that 
 the occupants would get very wet, and this they decidedly 
 would do. 
 
 We dined rather late just below the rapid, and here met 
 a whole flotilla of scows en route to the upper stretches ot 
 the river. They did not attempt to go through the main 
 rapid, buttook an alternative course which here lies open 
 to them, and followed a smaller channel, thus avoiding the 
 hard pull they would otherwise have. 
 
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 The sun was low when we got into the most famous 
 of all portions of the most beautiful of New Brunswick 
 livers: the mouth of the Matapedia, "the meeting ot the 
 waters." Here from the hills of Quebec, this river, the 
 nearest the sea of any of the tributaries of the Resti- 
 gouche, flows in from a north-westerly direction. The In- 
 tercolonial Railway of Canada, which follows the Resti- 
 gouche river from Campbellton beyond up to this point, 
 here crosses aud follows the Matapedia up through the Pro- 
 vince of Quebec 
 
 Just beside the Matapedia station, is the head-quarters 
 of the Restigouche Salmon Club, a luxuriously-fitted up 
 building, where a number of prominent American gentlemen 
 come to wile away part of the summer, and, under the in- 
 fluence of the glorious scenery and the clear air, to regain 
 lost strength and nervous energy, that has dribbled away 
 amid the bustle and roar of an American city. 
 
 No sooner had I landed at Matapedia, than Mr. Baker, 
 the gentleman in charge of the interests of the Restigouche 
 Salmon Club, invited me to dine with him, and despite 
 my protestations that I had nothing to wear for such an 
 occasion, and had no possibility of getting shaved, both he 
 and his wife insisted that I was to go as I was. As I then 
 rejoiced in the possession of from a quarter to a half inch of 
 beard — it was then in that stage which someone has neatly 
 described by saying that its possessor's face looked like the 
 cylinder of a music box — it could be readily imagined that I 
 was not altogether proud of my personal appearance. My 
 dinner dress consisted of — beginning at the bottom — a pair 
 of anhydrous K boots, a pair of course grey pants, construct- 
 ed for lite in the woods, with compound seat and knees; a 
 pair of leather suspenders, a grey lumbermen's shirt without 
 a necktie, and a brown canvas coat. One can understand 
 that my first thoughts led to things in civilization. 
 
 It is almost worth spending ten days away from civil- 
 ization, for the amount of appreciation for news which one 
 develops in a remarkably short time. I discovered among 
 other things, that war had broken out between Great Britain 
 
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162 
 
 and the Transvaal, and much to my disgust, that the 
 "Shamrock" had been beaten by the "Columbia," and then 
 there was a horde of other things of more or less secondary 
 •importance, which weae all interesting. 
 
 My host informed me that we might occupy the lodge 
 recently vacated by the head keeper for the Salmon Club, 
 which was situated just across the river, and this we gladly 
 did, and that night had our first sleep under a roof. We 
 were but thirteen miles from Campbellton, which we intend- 
 ed to reach the next afternoon, so that this would be our 
 last night in camp. Now we were indeed into civilization, 
 and in the night we were disturbed by the altogether unfami- 
 liar sound of the Maritime Express, the finest train'in the 
 world, as she thundered North in the direction of Montreal. 
 
 Sunrise saw us again on the move tor our last day's 
 journey, and as we passed beneath the railway bridge round 
 one of the river's bends, Bracketts Mountain, on the Quebec 
 shore, loomed through the blue haze ahead. Now the river 
 ran moderately shoal, and now we crossed a deep pool where 
 thousands upon thousands of suckers, which are common 
 also on the upper stretches of the river, swam lazily away as 
 •our canoes approached. Down we glided past flatlands and 
 the upper islands to Morrisey's rock, where the Intercolonial 
 railway passes through a short tunnel as it winds along the 
 ibank of the river. 
 
 All along are farm-houses and on the islands the last of 
 the harvest was in, and the hay stood here and there in cocks, 
 ready to be transported to the mainland as soon as the ice 
 would hold. 
 
 The view from the Morrisey rock is very fine both up 
 and down river. Looking down stream the river, as it flows 
 round the innumerable islands, stretched away towards the 
 Sugar Loaf Mountain and Campbellton eight miles distant. 
 
 Noon brought us to the Head of Tide, and the water 
 changed from that indescribable clearness to the com- 
 parative murkiness of salt water. Between these pictur- 
 esque little islands, the channels run everywhere. 
 

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163 
 
 "We wound our way in and out, always apparently 
 coming out in some main channel, and always finding that 
 the curve through which we were passing, led into some 
 labyrinth, until finally we immerged in a broad stretch of 
 shoal brackish water and the harbour of Campbellton 
 stretched shimmering before us out past the town which lay 
 some four miles below us on the right bank. 
 
 At the wharves lay a few barques loading lumber, and 
 here and there plied a tug boat, leaving a little trail of white 
 steam to contrast with the intense blue of the sky and water. 
 The two canoes were pulled together, and we sat and ate 
 the last meal of the trip on board; then started on a four 
 miles paddle through salt water. The change from river to 
 harbour was so instantaneous as to be hard to realize. 
 
 AX INCIDENT OF THE TRIP. 
 
 As we were passing along through the flat, about a 
 mile below the mouth of the Gounomitz, the Indian suddenly 
 stopped poling and said quickly, "Moose!" Where, I asked. 
 "Dare, over left bank," came the reply, and there, sure 
 ■enough, half hidden by some small shrubs, we could see the 
 hindquarters and part of the body ot a good sized moose. 
 We paddled closer quietly, and I cocked my rifle noiselessly 
 and waited. Seventy-yards, fifty yards, and still no motion. 
 I picked out the exact spot where I was going to hit him, 
 and then the head was slowly raised, and the big ears thrown 
 forward, and a cow moose gazed at us placidly for perhaps 
 half a minute, and then turned and walked slowly away into 
 the bushes. Unfortunately the camera was not ready. 
 
 We paddled up to the spot as quickly as possible, 
 expecting, as there had been no sound, to see the moose 
 standing just inside the fringe of bushes on the bank; but 
 there was not a sign of it anywhere. 
 
 Nothing strikes you as more remarkable than the won- 
 derful quietness with which such a large animal as a moose 
 can steal away when frightened. 
 
 In the Province of New Brunswick there is a fine of four 
 hundred dollars ($400) for shooting a cow moose. 
 
164 
 
 There were no more half-sunken logs, no more foaming 
 rapids or beds of glistening pebbles; but, now and then, an 
 area of eel grass alternating with the deep channel. The 
 zip, zip of the paddle continued uninterruptedly, accom- 
 panied only by an air that the Indian hummed as he paddled; 
 there were no stops and precautionary silences, ior there 
 were no bends to round and no big game to watch for. A 
 light easterly breeze flowed in from the Gulf of St. Lawrence 
 over the glittering water, and drifted the white smoke from 
 the big saw-mills up past the round dome ot Sugar Loaf 
 which stood out black against the sky, behind the town. 
 
 On the left bank of the river — on the Quebec shore — 
 some distance above the town, we passed the Indian Mission 
 of St. Anne's situated on Mission Point. Here some four 
 hundred or five hundred Micmac Indians live in a rather 
 neatly bui't village. Their spiritual wants are catered 
 to by some Fathers of the Capucin Order, and on Sundays 
 and fete days, the little brick church has a large congregation 
 of aboriginal Americans. In this village are to be found 
 some of the most famous guides and hunters of this section 
 of the country. Not tar from the village can be seen at low 
 water, a relic that recalls another period in the history of 
 Canada. Just above the wash of the usually calm waters of 
 the Baie des Chaleurs, stand out the blackened, broken tim- 
 bers of a vessel that must have been of considerable size. 
 They are the sole remains of one of a fleet of French war- 
 ships which sailed into the Baie des Chaleurs and were there 
 hunted out by one of the roving English Admirals of that 
 period, and utterly destroyed, as a fitting culmination to the 
 struggle which, but a short time before, had included 
 Wolfe's victory on the Plains of Abraham. 
 
 The whole region of the lower Restigouche river is one 
 which is of the utmost interest to the historian and archae- 
 ologist. On both banks of the river, within. a few miles of 
 Campbellton, have been found great numbers of Indian relics; 
 relics of the days before even the eyes of Eric the Norseman 
 had pierced the fog that hung on the banks of Newfound- 
 land, and opened the way for the subsequent discovery of 
 
165 
 
 the Western world. And relics of a period far later, are 
 here almost as common as are those ot the earlier time. Now 
 and then, as the farmer of the present day is plowing, he 
 turns up a pitted, rusted, cannon-ball, or the bent corroded 
 blade of a sabre, indicative of the fierce struggle between the 
 French, and the possessors of the land that were to be. 
 Sometimes a light brass gun is founds and occasionally one 
 of the heavy, massive cannons, that belched death from the 
 sides of the French frigates, until the rulers of the seas took a 
 hand in the work, and they were silenced forever. 
 
 As u T e today look about the beautiful head waters of the 
 misty Baie des Chaleurs, it is not to be wondered that the 
 place was such a favorite with the men who came in former 
 times. The great run of salmon up the river, as it still con- 
 tinues, must have formed no small attraction, as must also 
 have been the case with the great variety of game of other 
 kinds. And the large game is as plentiful as ever, much 
 more plentiful in fact, than it was a quarter or half century 
 ago. Again, the fertility of the soil and the great luxuriance 
 of the forest growth, must have added greatly to the value 
 of this part of the country which was at once apparent. 
 Even now, when centuries have passed, the country has been, 
 but scantly appreciated, and is far from being developed as- 
 it should be. 
 
 The town of Campbellton has the finest situation, from 
 a scenic point of view, in the Province of New Brunswick. 
 It is on the extreme head-water of the Baie des Chaleurs, an 
 estuary of the Restigouche River, about sixteen miles above 
 the town of Dalhousie, the shiretown of the county, which is 
 generally considered as being at the normal mouth of the 
 river. There is deep water, however, up to the wharves at 
 Campbellton. The Sugar Loaf Mountain, a dome-shaped 
 hill a thousand feet in height, rises a mile or more from the 
 river, and from its base, the town gently slopes down to the 
 water's edge. On the opposite side of the river, the long, 
 blue, uneven ridge of the Shickshock Mountains stretches 
 away in both directions, through the Province of Quebec. 
 The Shickshocks are a part of the Notre Dame Range. 
 
166 
 
 The view from the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain looking 
 across the river and down into the Baie des Chaleurs, with 
 the town of Campbellton at your feet, with its houses gleam- 
 ing white, seeming no bigger than rows of toadstools a 
 thousand feet below, is one of the most beautiful I 
 have ever seen, and undoubtedly the finest of its type in this 
 part of Canada. The town is so situated as to tap the lum- 
 ber resources of this portion ot the Province, and great 
 drives come down the Restigouche to be sawn into deals at 
 the mills in Campbellton. One of these mills will perhaps 
 make an average cut of four million feet during the Summer 
 months, and until navigation closes in the Autumn, which it 
 does late in November or in December, ships, barques and 
 steamers come up to the wharves at Campbellton to load 
 deal, a great portion of which goes to the old country. 
 
 Like most Maritime Province towns, practically every 
 denomination is here represented, church spires, as is usually 
 the case forming prominent features in pictures of the town. 
 The Intercolonial Railway passes through Campbellton on 
 its route from Halifax to Montreal, and thus the town has 
 the finest transportation facilities. Sportsmen often make 
 this delightlully situated place their head-quarters. The 
 fields for large game hunting are conveniently accessible 
 from here, and in the Spring and Fall the Baie des Chaleurs 
 is crowded with enormous- numbers of different varieties of 
 ducks and geese. 
 
 By halt-past three in the afternoon, after paddling past 
 several of the wharves, we swung to a float, which was just 
 being vacated by a ferry-boat — that I have always believed 
 should have been ranked with the seven wonders of the 
 world — and stepped ashore, and the trip was at an end. It 
 remained but to get packed up, to answer the thousand-and- 
 one questions put to us by the inhabitants, to get the Indians 
 started for home, and to leave ourselves for St. John, on the 
 Maritime Express, a very much more elaborate, but not a 
 whit more luxurious method of travelling than we had been 
 indulging in during the last twelve days. After settling 
 with the Indians, and saying good-bye to them, we took a 
 
167 
 
 surreptitious glance into the second-class car. They were 
 seated opposite each other, each with his feet up on the 
 other's seat, and their axes, with the canvas bags containing 
 their wardrobe, stowed away in the racks above. Each had 
 an air of contentment, and each was puffing away at a ten- 
 cent imported cigar, which they had gotten on the strength 
 of receiving their salaries. From what I heard later through 
 Mr. Perley, those cigars must have been very strong, or 
 else some other form of intoxicant must have been resorted 
 to, for, after the 24 hours ride they arrived home in a 
 wonderful state of mental exhileration, and, according to the 
 same gentleman, made more laudatory remarks about me 
 personally than I have ever had made before or since. 
 
 THE EASTERN SLOPE, INCLUDING THE COUNTIES OF 
 GLOUCESTER, NORTHUMBERLAND AND KENT. 
 
 (WESTMORLAND INCLUDED WITH ALBERT COUNTY UNDER 
 SEPARATE HEAD.) 
 
 To repeat once more what 1 have said several times 
 before, all that I have even striven to do in this book is to 
 describe territory which is typical of the different portions of 
 the Province, and not to attempt to give any exhaustive 
 description of these portions themselves. Thus it may often 
 seem that in one part of the Province some particular politi- 
 cal division labor, sacrificed to some other. It will be 
 found on examination that the part which is apparently 
 sacrificed is not essentially different from some other part 
 generally near at hand which has been described more fully. 
 All this is especially true of the region we are considering 
 under this heading. 
 
 In the three counties of Gloucester, Northumberland 
 and Kent there are many things in common, and this will 
 also apply in the case of Eastern Westmorland County. 
 But on account of the considerable area of Westmorland 
 
168 
 
 which is effected more or less directly by the peculiarities of 
 the Bay of Fundy, I have placed it with the County of 
 Albert, much resembling it in its physical features, under a 
 a separate heading. The Eastern slope comprising the 
 three counties named, all of which are bounded on the East, 
 and in the case of Gloucester on the North also, by the Gulf 
 of St. Lawrence, is a country, in its seaward portions, 
 of multitudes of bays and harbors, some small and some 
 of very great extent. The coast is, for the most part, 
 low lying, there being no hills that attain any consider- 
 able elevation. Along the Eastern shore, South o' 
 Shippegan and Miscou Islands, and extending to the harbour 
 of Shediac, much of the true coast is protected from the sea 
 by great bars of sand, which, under the influence of the 
 easterly storms, have been thrown up by the action of the 
 waves. These bars enclose harbours or lagoons which are 
 usually shoal, though in many cases their channels afford 
 excellent anchorage for ships of very considerable tonnage. 
 The finest of the harbours along the Eastern coast is un- 
 doubtedly that of Chatham in Northumberland County, the 
 town being situated on an estuary of the Miramichi River at 
 the head of the bay ot that name. The rivers and small 
 stre ams which flow from these three counties into the Gulf 
 of St. Lawrence are simply innumerable. The most import- 
 ant of these are: In Gloucester County the Nepisiquit, one of 
 the famous trout and salmon streams ot the world; in Nor- 
 thumberland, the noble Miramichi, second only to the St. 
 John River in size; while in Kent County the most important 
 stream is the Richibucto. 
 
 Farming is, along the shore on the eastern slope, 
 carried on in a manner that is typical of the country, and on 
 account of the great similarity of the soil there is no great 
 variation in methods noted in the three counties. Though 
 advancement has been slow in coming, it has been steady, 
 except at certain periods, and is now proceeding much more 
 rapidly than before. Next to farming, lumbering and fish- 
 ing vie with each other as to their importance as industries 
 throughout this section, and now a new source of wealth is 
 
169 
 
 being introduced in the manufacture of pulp from the spruce 
 which so plentifully clothes this part of the Province. 
 
 To look at the counties somewhat more in detail: — As 
 can be seen by examining ( a map of the Province, the County 
 of Gloucester occupies the extreme northeast corner of the 
 irregular quadrilateral which the Province forms, and in- 
 cludes, off to the northeast, the two considerable islands, 
 Miscou and Shippegan. The chief harbours in the county, 
 though the whole Bay Chaleur lying to the North may be 
 considered one great harbour, are around on the north, 
 Bathurst and Caraquet, the land between being extremely 
 picturesque and pretty; Shippegan Harbour between the 
 main land, Great Pokesuedie Island and the Island of Ship- 
 pegan; Miscou Harbour between the Islands of Shippegan 
 and Miscou; then on the East Pokmouche Gully and 
 Tracadie Lagoon, the last two comparatively shoal. The 
 rivers are, first and most important, the Nepisiquit, in its 
 last stretches, running almost directly north and emptying 
 into Bathurst Harbour and finally out into Nepisiquit Bay. 
 The big and little Tracadie Rivers are next in importance; 
 these with the Pokmouche and the T^te-a-gouche being 
 famous fishing streams. Besides those mentioned are a 
 multitnde of little streams, nearly all able to supply their 
 quotom of sport for the angler. 
 
 The farming lands of the county are situated around 
 the shores, the interior being to a great extent covered with 
 lumber and containing no settlements of importance. Im- 
 mediately around the mouth of the Nepisiquit, westerly and 
 northerly, where travels the Intercolonial Railway, and to 
 the east of the Nepisiquit where the Gulf Shore and Caraquet 
 Railway opens up, large stretches of country are to be found, 
 some of the best farms in the county. While along the 
 coast south of Shippegan down to the southern boundary of 
 the county, farming is improving rapidly. 
 
 The soil in the eastern portion of Gloucester County 
 overlies the carboniferous formation, The sharp line of 
 demarkation between this formation and the Slate Belt which 
 traverses the Province, running approximately, northeast 
 
170 
 
 and southwest, cuts Gloucester County and reaches the Baie 
 des Chaleur at Bathurst, leaving fully two-thirds of the 
 eastern portion of the county carboniferous, the remaining 
 western third lying over this portion of the Slate Belt. In 
 the region of Bathurst there are some out-crops of granite, 
 diorite and soforth, but these do no cover any considerable 
 portion of the county. The soil of Gloucester as is also true 
 ot Northumberland, Kent and Eastern Westmorland, is for 
 the most part, a considerably lighter loam than is found in 
 Restigouche County. The Counties of Northumberland and 
 Kent also lie, to a great extent, in the carboniferous portion, 
 the Western part of Northumberland, north of the main 
 Miramichi River, lying also in the Slate Belt. Kent County 
 lies entirely in carboniferous formation, and the same system 
 underlies the soil of the County of Westmorland. Through 
 the whole shore region of the County, the quality of the 
 farming land is well calculated to impress the observer very 
 favourably ; a part of it has been very carefully worked, and 
 a very considerable portion of it has been worked but indif- 
 ferently. 
 
 From Bathurst round to Tracadie the population consists 
 to a greater extent of French, though there is a comparative- 
 ly large number of farmers of English, Irish and Scotch 
 descent. Tracadie, Caraquet, Bathurst and the vicinity of 
 Petite Roche present probably the best developed farms in the 
 county. Here, as elsewhere, dairying has taken a start, and 
 is advancing with most remarkable rapidity. 
 
 The town of Bathurst, the shiretown of the County, is 
 situated on the harbour of that name and is on the main line 
 of the Intercolonial Railway. The greater portion of this 
 town lies on a point between the mouths of the Nepisiquit 
 and Little Rivers. Across the mouth of the Little River runs 
 a bridge to the smaller portion of the town, which lies on a 
 rather sharp hill overlooking the bay. The harbour itself is 
 over three miles in length, and in places almost as wide. 
 Several lumber mills cluster about the town, the logs for 
 which come, tor the most part, down the Nepisiquit. 
 
171 
 
 Bathurst on account of its situation has long been a 
 favorite as a Summer resort; the days are seldom uncom- 
 fortably warm, and the nights invariably cool. The harbour 
 opens out on the broad, beautiful Nepisiquit Bay, itself a- 
 southern extension of Baie des Chaleur. The good things 
 that may be said ot Maritime Province towns, may be said 
 also of Bathurst. It has some really fine churches, excellent 
 schools and a few rather imposing public buildings; the rest 
 of the houses and buildings are, for the most part unpre- 
 tentious, but when taken in connection with the surround- 
 ings, the effect is remarkably pleasing. For one who loves 
 a village lying where the fresh breeze from the sparkling blue 
 water, can blow in at every door; a village that lies in the 
 midst of an excellent farming and magnificent sporting 
 country, Bathurst may be ranked with those places which a 
 German writer describes as "interesting to visit, but de- 
 lightful to live in." Into the harbour, besides the Nepisiquit 
 which we have already mentioned, empties the Tete-a-gouche, 
 famed for its wonderfully beautiful falls, the Little River, a 
 pretty little stream flowing from the south and the Middle 
 River, the mouths of the last two, converging to their junc- 
 tion. 
 
 The various harbours of Gloucester County form centres 
 for an important fishing industry. The Gulf of St. Law- 
 rence teems with cod and haddock, and a man can obtain his 
 winter supply of these fish if he chooses by simply spending 
 a few days in catching and curing them. Great schools of 
 mackerel, once far more plentiful then at present, are found 
 throughout Norlhumberland Straits and this portion of the 
 Gulf of St. Lawrence, and great quantities of herring are 
 obtainable at nearly all times. Shippegan harbour is 
 often crowded with the fishing fleet, the numbers of vessels 
 with their white sails forming, on some fine summer day, a 
 beautiful picture, as they lie in the land-locked bay. Every- 
 where around the Gulf are to be found lobster factories. 
 Lobster fishing, however, has become a far less remuner- 
 ative pursuit than formerly, as the shellfish have decreased: 
 considerably under the influence of the wholesale fishing; 
 
172 
 
 thousands of tons being taken along the Gulf Shore 
 annually. In the winter, great quantities of smelt are taken 
 through the ice. A fuller description of these, however, 
 will be given under the head of Northumberland County. 
 
 Let us turn our attention, for a little while to the sport- 
 ing facilities afforded by Gloucester County. For big game 
 the most famous, though not necessarily the best region, is 
 along the course of the Nepisiquit River. Excellent sport 
 has been obtained within 20 miles of Bathurst. Mr 
 Reynolds, in his "Gun and Rod" in New Brunswick, cited 
 the instance of a man who, in 1896, had but a few days to 
 spare, and decided to try his luck at Gordon Brook near the 
 Grand Falls of the Nepisiquit, about 20 miles above Bathurst. 
 In a week he succeeded in getting a moose, two caribou and 
 a bear. The hunting region, as far as big game is concerned in 
 the County, is in its extreme western portion ; though the 
 eastern section of the County, around the head-waters of 
 Lord and Foy's Brook, and the north branch of the big 
 Tracadie River, have seen some excellent sport. The County 
 of Gloucester, however, is chiefly famed for its wild fowl 
 shooting ; the number of geese, brant and ducks which are 
 to be seen in the proper seasons along the coast, being al- 
 most unbelievable. On the Baie des Chaleur side, on 
 Nepisiquit Bay and in the region of Caraquet Harbour, 
 enormous numbers of s: a ducks are to be found every Spring 
 and Autumn, but one must go to the Islands of Miscou and 
 Shippegan to thoroughly appreciate the numbers of birds 
 which pass through the Straits of Northumberland on their 
 noithward and southward migrations. Almost without 
 exception the birds breed in Labrador, and from the begin- 
 ning of April until well on in June, and from the beginning 
 of September almost to Christmas time, a continuous stream 
 'of wild fowl pour to and from the cold, bleak shores of the 
 Peninsula, on which are their breeding places. Probably 
 nowhere in the world can finer brant and goose shooting be 
 obtained than in Tracadie Lagoon. October is the finest 
 month for shooting these birds, employing the method corn- 
 corn in this section of the country. A "sink-box" consisting 
 
173 
 
 of a coffin shaped box, just sufficiently deep to hold a man, 
 •without his being visible, which is sunk flush with a raft, 
 -some 12x9 feet in size, is anchored out on the feeding 
 -grounds of the birds, and around it are anchored a large 
 number, 70 or 80 decoys. As the tide falls, allowing the 
 birds to get at the eel grass which forms their principal 
 food, they fly to the feeding grounds in smaller flocks, 
 invariably swinging in and alighting in the centre of a flock 
 that may be there. This continues until three or four 
 thousand birds will be found on one feeding ground 
 if, however, the first flock on the ground happens to be the 
 sportsman's flock of decoys with their owner carefully con- 
 cealed in the centre of the flock, the birds swing in as usual, 
 and, just as they are about to alight, the man sits up and 
 "fires. The result may be four or five birds at a single shot, 
 though this is, of course, exceptional. 
 
 Let me give an actual instance of a day's shooting 
 on one of these lagoons in the middle of October: — You have 
 arranged with your Acadian guide the day before, and long 
 before the first streak of dawn, you are eating a breakfast of 
 baked beans accompanied by big mugs ot coffee, and a few 
 minutes more sees you ready for the fray. The guide has 
 turned up half an hour before, and has been patiently smok- 
 ing in front of a big open fire place. Your companion, who 
 is going to try beach shooting, which consists of crawling 
 into a hole dug in the sand and waiting for the incoming 
 birds to fly over you — is working away with a rag covered 
 with vaseline, putting the finishing touches on his gun. You 
 have collected a bag of shells, looked at it thoughtfully for a 
 minute or two, and finally decided to add yet another twenty- 
 five to the number already enclosed; and the precaution is a 
 wise one. A moment afterward and three men are wending 
 their way through the intense darkness that comes before the 
 dawn, down to the point on the beach where the guide has 
 left his pirogue, a peculiar, staunchly-constructed dug-out, 
 much in service around the north shores of New Brunswick. 
 In the bow are piled an enormous flock of wooden decoys, 
 with their anchor lines attached, and apparently in imminent 
 
174 
 
 danger of getting inextricably tangled. You step in, and 
 as the peculiar craft moves off, propelled by the powerful 
 arms of the descendent of the Acadians, from out the dark 
 to the eastward, you hear one of the strange, wild calls 
 from some stray brant, that sets your blood boiling and 
 makes every nerve alert. You reach the feeding ground 
 where the "sink-box'' has already been anchored without 
 incident, and step in. The wood is cold and damp, and you 
 place your makinak blanket over the grating in the bot- 
 tom of the box, get your shell-bag and gun in a convenient 
 position, and sit on the edge of the box watching the Acadian 
 as he places the decoys here and there, until his artistic eye 
 is satisfied with the group. Everything is still dark, and the 
 whole performance is a rather showy one. Then with mutual 
 wishes for good luck, you and your friend part and he is soon 
 in his hole on the sand bar. The Frenchman retires around 
 a convenient point, gets in a comfortable position in the 
 bottom of the pirogue, and proceeds to smoke like a furnace. 
 Before this has been accomplished, the black has turned to 
 grey, and the grey is slowly brightening in the east. There 
 is no wind, and all is quiet except for the occasional bark of 
 a great Black-backed Gull, or the still more occcasional 
 pur-r-r-r-r-p of a brant. The notes from the seaward become 
 more frequent as the light brightens, and suddenly there is a 
 flash and bang from the beach which causes you to retreat 
 in good order into your trenches. No splash follows the 
 shot, however, and you " hallo " through the darkness, and 
 ask " what luck ? " " Couple"of geese," comes the reply, "but 
 missed 'em both, too dark to see yet." Then there is another 
 shot and a bird falls very near your own box. None, how- 
 ever, seem to be coming your way, and shot after shot 
 rings out from the beach. By this time it is thoroughly 
 light, and the birds can be seen coming in from the open 
 sea in great flocks and alighting in different parts of 
 the lagoon. There is yet an hour before the tide will have 
 fallen sufficiently on your particular section of the feeding 
 ground to attract many birds to the spot, and you fill the 
 interval with an occasional shot at a black duck that swings 
 
175 
 
 in to your decoys, mistaking them, in the uncertain light for 
 his own kith. A little later and, in a blaze of red and gold, 
 the sun climbs above the waters of the Gulf outside the beach, 
 and lights up the tops of the ripples caused by the little 
 breeze that has "risen with the sun." 
 
 The tips of the eel grass are now visible around you, 
 and you duck your head just too late to deceive a flock of ten 
 or twelve birds that were coming whistling down behind 
 you. With a warning note or two they wheel and make for 
 another part of the lagoon, and properly rebuked, you keep 
 your head where it should be. Your chance soon comes 
 again, however, and behind you you hear the rustle and 
 swish of wings. Your box is faced down the wind, however, 
 and you know that they will come round to the leeward ot 
 your decoys before attempting to alight. Round on your 
 right they come. They swing out for sixty or seventy 
 yards and you teel that you have lost them. Then with 
 wings set, they wheel again and come straight for your feet. 
 Eighty, seventy, fifty, thirty yards and you sit up, and, as 
 their under coverts flash in the morning sunlight, as they 
 attempt to turn, you pour one barrel after another of No. 4 
 shot into the group. Splash, splash, splash, in rapid suc- 
 cession, and one spreads his wings and comes down three 
 hundred yards away, not however, without having been 
 marked by the keen eye of the Frenchman who is peering 
 over the beach a good third of a mile away, with a grin that 
 can almost be seen at this distance. Ten minutes more and 
 the fun is fast and furious, and you become an expert 
 at loading in a reclining position, while a flock that has just 
 visited your decoys, minus two or three of their former num- 
 bers, races off down the wind at a speed of eighty miles an 
 hour. And so it continues until the tide has risen again. The 
 flocks have been small, from seven to possibly fifteen birds, 
 and, so far, not a Canada goose to be seen. Now two or 
 three of them in their turn swing into the decoys, and you 
 get one of them. Later another pair come in unsuspiciously; 
 you nerve yourself for the attempt; fire at the right hand 
 bird, and swing to the left, you fire the second barrel without 
 
176 
 
 having waited to see the effect of the first, and when the 
 smoke has cleared away, you find, much to your edification, 
 that you have got them both. The tide is now too high for 
 anything further, but a chance shot, and you stand up in the 
 box and wave your hat in the direction of the worthy on the 
 beach whose head is by this time a complicated map of dead 
 birds, tidal currents and probable drifts. He comes out 
 and the pirogue moves into all sorts of impossible positions 
 each time, however, emerging with a dead bird. By the 
 time he has arrived at the box, having called for your friend 
 in the meanwhile; you have calculated that you should have 
 23 brant and three geese, and find that your calculation is 
 verified. Your friend, in a less favoured position, has gotten 
 but 14 birds, but his goose record is far ahead of yours, and 
 his total foots up 22, giving him 8 of the most magnificent 
 of game birds, the Canada goose. 
 
 It would take far more than the lifetime of even the 
 longest lived sportsman to forget such a day's shooting as 
 this, and when you reach home in the middle of the 
 afternoon, your bliss is completed by finding that some of 
 your old-time rivals in the art have turned up to try their 
 luck, and are standing on the veranda as you stagger up- 
 under your load of birds. 
 
 Mr. D. G. Smith, in "Gun and Rod" in New Brunswick, 
 aptly gives an idea of the extent of waters suitable for brant 
 and goose shooting throughout this section of the Province, 
 by saying that Caraquet, Pokmouche, Miscou and Shippegan 
 have shooting grounds of the kind described " where a 
 thousand men may shoot without interfering with each 
 other" and he might have added that if the thousand men 
 continued shooting for several days, it would probably be 
 difficult to distinguish the diminution in the enormous flocks 
 of birds along this coast. 
 
 With regard to the fishing in the County of Gloucester, 
 trout and salmon can be obtained in great quantities. Trout 
 fishing can be found in practically every stream, large and 
 small. Mr. Smith speaking of one of the rivers of the 
 County already mentioned says: "Tracadie River is, I 
 
177 
 
 believe from my experience on it, the best sea trout stream, 
 in Canada, not even excepting; the Tabusintac which is next 
 south of it. The numerous small lakes in the County also 
 afford excellent trout fishing, and the Nepisiquit and 
 Pokmouche are favorite salmon streams, the former having 
 long been famous as a rendevous of the king of game fish. 
 
 The beauties of the Nepisiquit River, deserve very much 
 more time and space given to them than I can afford. On, 
 October 4, 1899, I drove trom Bathurst to a point a short 
 distance above the so-called Pabineau Falls, though they 
 might be more correctly termed Pabineau Rapids, which I have 
 preferred calling them in view of the general characteristics. 
 An excellent road runs from Bathurst to these rapids, and a 
 very good portage road runs twelve miles further on the 
 west bank of the river to the Grand Falls of the Nepisiquit. 
 The scene at the Grand Falls from the descriptions and 
 photographs which I have seen, though I have never been 
 there personally, must be one of extraordinary beauty. 
 Here the river plunges over a vertical fall into a deep gorge 
 around which it is necessary to portage in traversing the 
 river by canoe. The lower portion of the Nepisiquit, two or 
 three miles above Bathurst, is known as the "rough-waters,"" 
 the whole bed of the river being strewn with boulders, through 
 which, at first, it would seem impossible for alight birch bark 
 canoe to pick its way. Under the skilful handling of the 
 guides, however, the difficulties are surmounted most effect- 
 ually. Above this point the stream presents a clear channel, 
 until the Pabineau rapids are reached, eight miles from the 
 mouth of the river. Here the stream descends in a series of 
 leaps, the impassable water being over three hundred yards in 
 all. The spring floods have carved the rocky ridge into a 
 thousand picturesque lorms, and here are presented some 
 excellent examples of what are known among geologists as 
 pot-holes. These are caused by a few moderate sized stones 
 getting in some depression in the rock, and there being 
 whirled round and round by the waters which form over 
 them. The result is that deep, smooth sided wells, three 
 or four feet in diameter, are cut vertically in the solidi 
 
178 
 
 rock down until the level of the river below is reached. 
 Several of these pot-holes of the Pabineau rapids are practi- 
 cally perfectly symmetrical, and excellent examples of their 
 kind. The top of the rocky ridge has been flattened off, 
 until in some places it presents a table-like surface, the edges 
 of which are cut down vertically to the water. When the 
 water is low, during late Summer and early Autumn, the 
 entire volume of the river rushes through a narrow gorge, 
 and plunges roaring and seething, finally into a salmon pool 
 of great depth at the foot of the rapids. 
 
 Unlike the Restigouche the Lower Nepisiquit runs 
 through a comparatively flat country, and for the beauty you 
 are more dependent upon the river itself than on its sur- 
 roundings. The upper portion of the Nepisiquit River will 
 be mentioned when speaking of Northumberland County. 
 
 A number of three-pound trout had been taken out of 
 the pool below the Pabineau Rapids the day previous to my 
 visiting it. 
 
 NORTHUMBERLAND COUNTY. 
 
 The County of Northumberland, the largest in the Pro- 
 vince, lies south of Gloucester, north of Kent; is bounded 
 on the east by the Gulf of St. Lawrence and on the west 
 by several of the St. John River Counties. According to 
 Mr. Lugrin, it contains 2,756,000 acres. It embraces a con- 
 siderable portion of the central part of the Province, the 
 greater part of it being heavily timbered, and containing a 
 game area of nearly four thousand square miles. The most 
 important industry in Northumberland County is that of 
 lumbering. Enormous drives of logs come down the vari- 
 ous branches of the Miramichi River every Spring, though 
 a considerable quantity is brought round the shore from the 
 mouth of the Tracadie River, by the largest operator in the 
 Province, whose mills are situated here. I refer to Senator 
 Snowball. 
 
179 
 
 The chief, and for that matter, the only harbor having 
 any considerable depth of water in the County, is that of 
 ■Chatham. Chatham harbor has situated in it three towns in 
 the following- order as one proceeds up stream: Chatham 
 on the left bank, Douglastown on the right bank, five miles 
 above Chatham; Newcastle on the right bank. Chatham 
 harbor is the second shipping port in the province, St. John, 
 of course, taking the lead. The greater portion of Northum- 
 berland County, for that matter the greater portion of 
 central New Brunswick, is drained by the Miramichi River 
 and its tributaries. Through the northwest and extreme 
 northern portion of the County runs the Nepisiquit River, 
 emptying into Bathurst harbor in Gloucester County. The 
 ramifications of the Miramichi are simply innumerable, as 
 are also the small lakes about its headwaters. The result of 
 this is that Northumberland vies with Restigouche County 
 on the north, and the eastern part of Victoria County on the 
 west, as a game country. At the extreme head of Nepisiquit 
 River is Nepisiquit Lake, while just across the border in 
 Restigouche County, lies Nictor Lake, spoke'n of in the 
 description of that County. Between fifteen and twenty 
 miles to the eastward, barely within Northumberland County, 
 lies Upsalquitch Lake, at the headwaters of the L^psalquitch 
 River, while south of these three throughout the main west- 
 ern portion of Northumberland, lie a perfect host of others. 
 These will be referred to more at length later. As in the case of 
 Gloucester County, the greater portion of the farming area 
 lies along the sea coast, though some is to be found along 
 the upper waters of the southwest Miramichi, where are situ- 
 ated Boistown and Doaktown, farming, industries on the 
 interval land which is found here. 
 
 The description given of interval land on the St. John 
 River, will serve very well for that in this County, the same 
 conditions obtaining; while the description of the farming 
 land of Gloucester County will serve for the coastal portions 
 of Northumberland. The most finely developed part of this 
 coastward farming country is to be found at Napan, on the 
 south side of the Miramichi, a short distance east of Chatham. 
 
180 
 
 Here along the Napan River is situated a well-tilled 
 piece of country where a considerable stock is to be found, 
 and which shows the effects of the rapid advance in methods 
 now so noticeable throughout the Province. Like Glouces- 
 ter, this part of the County ,has no great elevations, consist- 
 ing, for the most part, of rolling uplands, continuing its 
 excellent quality of soil back to the edge of the forest; down 
 past little Branch, Bay du Vin, Hardwicke and Hardwood 
 settlements out to where Point Escuminac light throws its 
 glare out over the broad waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 
 trying to outdo the light on the north point of Prince Edward 
 Island. Fifty miles to the eastward stretches the same type 
 of farming country, and the same is the case along the north, 
 shore of the Bay down to Oak Point, thence to Burnt Church;, 
 through the little French village of Nequac, and finally up 
 past Tabusintac Lagoon, are doted the farm houses. With 
 the exception of the towns on the southwest Miramichi, the 
 population of Northumberland County is concentrated almost 
 entirely throughout this eastern section. The two most 
 important towns are Chatham and Newcastle. Newcastle, the 
 shiretown, is situated on the main line of the Intercolonial 
 Railway, at the head of deep water navigation of the 
 Miramichi River. The town lies on a gentle slope on the 
 north side of the river, between the railway and the har- 
 bour's front. On climbing to the top of the beautiful stone 
 school building, (Harkin's Academy,) situated in the upper 
 part of the town, the first impression that comes home 
 strongly, as a result of the scene that is spread before you, 
 is that you are in the centre of what is essentially a lumber 
 country. To the westward stretches the forest to the 
 horizon, and for several miles in a southward direction, the 
 broad Miramichi winds glittering away until it is lost to 
 sight in the woods above. 
 
 A mile or two up stream, on the other side of the river, 
 lies the little village of Nelson, its immense lumber mills 
 puffing awayand sending enormous clouds of smokeandsteam 
 into the quiet air. Down river, out on a point, lies Douglas- 
 town, practically a village of lumbermen, where are situated 
 
181 
 
 the great mills of Mr. Ernest Hutchison, who gives em- 
 ployment to practically the entire population of the little 
 town, and still farther beyond, part of it seen over Douglas- 
 town, lies Chatham, on the opposite bank of the river five 
 miles away, with its saw-mills and pulp-mill, the smoke from 
 which drifts slowly across the placid bay below to where on 
 the opposite side of the river, the Dominion Pulp Company's 
 factory adds its quotum to the whole. 
 
 From your feet stretches Newcastle to the bank of the 
 river, along which are still other lumber mills, and a little up 
 river lie the piers that support the great booms full of logs 
 in the spring. Nearly everywhere you look there is a 
 wharf in sight, that wharf is piled with deals ready for 
 shipment to Great Britain, and in another part of the river 
 front, if the season is the same as in which 1 visited this 
 section — late September — preparations will be in progress 
 for making the next season's cut of logs; supplies will be en 
 route up stream, the same method as is used in the Resti- 
 gouche, being employed here, and with the tidesmen every- 
 thing will be stirring. So great is the pressure on the 
 lumber mills in this region, that they are generally kept run- 
 ning night and day; electric light being used at night to 
 obviate any danger of fire. These mills brilliantly lighted up 
 can be seen from the river throughout the night, and the 
 roar of the machinery, the backward and forward rattle of 
 the carriage, and the droning hum of the circular saw are 
 never still except on Sunday, and bespeak an industry which 
 though large, will stand much greater development. The 
 market is always good, but in the season of 1899 it was 
 especially good. One of the chief operators in this sec- 
 tion, speaking of the lumber conditions a short time since, 
 said: "We lumbermen feel like millionaires this year." 
 The most imposing buildings in Newcastle are, — the school 
 building, the Dominion building and one or two of the banks. 
 The hotels are excellent, the dwelling houses, for the most 
 part unpretentious but substanial. So much has been said 
 of the beautiful situation of various Maritime Province towns, 
 that it mav seem to the reader who has never seen for 
 
182 
 
 himself, that this phase of the descriptions is somewhat 
 exaggerated; such, however, is not the case. 
 
 Both Chatham and Newcastle are situated on a broad, 
 winding estuary,' the towns themselves sloping up prettily 
 from its shore. Newcastle is particularly well situated 
 with regard to the drives which may be taken from this 
 point as a centre. Two miles above the town is the junction 
 of the northwest and southwest branches of the Miramichi, 
 Roads run up both branches for some distance, and also up 
 the more important of the side streams. A mile below the 
 town is the mill cove, where a streamlet winds its way 
 through a deep, wide gorge, from the upper part of which 
 can be obtained one of the finest vistas in the Province, 
 looking out on the Miramichi River. The road to the east 
 passes through Douglastown, and away along the north 
 shore, one branch running up through the most beautiful 
 woodland, through Bartibog and on toward Bathurst, 
 Bartibog is the centre of the finest caribou country in the 
 eastern part of the Province. The mill cove is of especial 
 interest, from an economic point of view, from the fact that 
 here is situated one of the finest freestone quarries to be found 
 — Fish's quarry. From this ledge of rock came the stone from 
 which the Dominion Parliament Buildings at Ottawa were 
 constructed. The quarry also produces fine quality grind- 
 stones and pulp mill stones. This section is exceedingly 
 thick, and some very large monoliths can be taken out. The 
 Intercolonial Railway is most conveniently situated for ship- 
 ment, as it passes the head of the quarry itself. This part of 
 Northumberland County seems to be especially favorable to 
 the growth of white birch; nowhere have I seen the tree 
 attain^finer development than here. 
 
 Chatham, a town of about 7,000 inhabitants, lies on 
 the southeast side of the Miramichi, five miles below New- 
 castle. It has every natural advantage that a modern town 
 requires for rapid advancement, being situated on a 
 fine harbor, the finest in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, at 
 the head of Miramichi Bay. Newcastle and Chatham hold 
 the key to the shipment of the vast quantities of lumber that 
 
183 
 
 come every season from the interior of New Brunswick. 
 No town in the Maritime Provinces, with the exception of St. 
 John, leaves the visitor with the impression that it is more 
 thoroughly alive than does Chatham. As is the case 
 throughout the Maritime Provinces as a whole, a great in- 
 terest'is taken in educational matters. The school building's 
 are rapidly being improved, and the number of pupils 
 speedily increasing. Here is situated the Miramichi Natural 
 History Society, conducted much on the lines of the Natural 
 History Society of New Brunswick, at St. John. It is an 
 excellent institution; has the support and co-operation of the 
 best people of the town and Province, and a most efficient 
 staff of scientists in connection with it. Dr. Baxter, the 
 Ornithologist, Mr. J. B. D. F. MacKenzie, the Entomologist, 
 and Dr. Philip Cox the Icthyologist, being the most promin- 
 ent. The public buildings are a credit to the town, the 
 Municipal Building being a fine example It contains a 
 spacious and beautiful Council Chamber, at one end of which 
 is a mounted caribou head, which I shall never forget, it 
 being one of the finest specimens I have ever had the good 
 fortune to see ; a library which is rapidly growing, and 
 several other departments connected with the city's work. 
 On the first floor is situated the fire apparatus, emboding 
 the latest improvements in modern machinery of the kind. 
 The building itself is a handsome brick and stone structure. 
 I may say that the tendency throughout the Province is one 
 of pride towards public works and buildings. The town 
 hall at Chatham, though typical of what we should like, 
 is above the average decidedly. The streets in this de- 
 lightful town are are well laid out for the most part, 
 and throughout the resideni section are lined with shade 
 trees. Practically all religious denominations are here 
 represented; the town being the seat of a Roman Catholic 
 bishop. The climate is delightfully cool in Summer, and 
 though cold in Winter, is not subject to rapid changes. 
 
 On week days the sing of the mills is ceaseless, and 
 several other industries of no mean size, are in full operation. 
 It is a great distribution point for fishery products, and is 
 
184 
 
 connected with the Intercolonial Railway; while on the 
 south side of the Miramichi River, lies twelve miles distant, 
 a portion of the Canada Eastern connecting with the Inter- 
 colonial Railway at Chatham Junction. Trains from Chatham 
 connect with every important train running' down the Inter- 
 colonial Railway. If any other method of reaching this 
 railway is desired, one may take the steamer — in the Summer 
 time — which runs between Chatham and Newcastle, the 
 latter town lying directly on the main line. 
 
 An industry which has developed entirely in the last few 
 years in New Brunswick, and promises to assume propor- 
 tions so gigantic as, at present, to be only faintly estimated, 
 has chosen Chatham as one of its headquarters for the 
 present. Here are situated the factories of the Dominion 
 Pulp Company and the Maritime Sulphite Fibre Company. 
 The latter factory is situated in the town of Chatham itself, 
 while the former lies just across the stream about a mile 
 distant. Let me give a short description of the works of 
 the Maritime Sulphite Fibre Company: The main factory 
 is situated near the water's edge in the down river portion 
 of the town, and is a very extensive brick and steel structure. 
 The "barking mill," where the bark is stripped from the 
 blocks of spruce used in the manufacture of pulp, 
 is situated in the higher portion of the town, between a 
 quarter and a half a mile from the main factory, with which 
 it is connected by a tramway. From this, a branch of the 
 Canada Eastern runs down to the boom of the Company, 
 where the large quantities of wood are hauled after being 
 brought down stream, and where is situated a steam haul- 
 up. The flat cars which are to take the logs up to the 
 barking mill, are backed in beside this haul-up, and the logs 
 are rapidly drawn up the incline by the powerful engine from 
 the boom below, and rolled on to the cars. The speed with 
 which cars can be loaded with heavy logs by this method is 
 simply marvellous. From here the cars are taken to one 
 side of the barking mill, about half a mile distant, where they 
 are rolled off ready for further operations. In this mill they 
 are cut up into three-foot lengths and the bark removed. 
 
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185 
 
 Atter this process is finished (the improved machinery in use 
 accomplishing- it in a very short time) the blocks are taken by 
 a conveyor which runs high in the air some distance from the 
 mill, and at proper intervals, topples over, where they form 
 an enormous pile over a hundred yards in length. Here 
 they get pretty thoroughly dried, after which they are taken 
 in small cars prepared for the purpose, down the tramway 
 by a little locomotive, which is puffing its way back and forth 
 all day long, the piercing shrieks of its shrill whistle being 
 constantly on the air. These blocks are received in the 
 wood-room of the pulp mill, where, by the aid of powerful 
 machinery, they are torn up into small chips, ready to go to the 
 digestors. These digestors are enormous iron affairs capable 
 of holding seven tons of pulp at a time. Here the chips are 
 boiled for a long time with sulphurous acid, which the 
 Company makes itself by the aid of special furnaces and 
 acid. From the digestors, the whole mass is allowed to flow 
 into the digestive pits, where a portion of the sulphurous 
 acid is reclaimed and the pulp thoroughly washed. By repeat" 
 ed treatment with water, the product then is of a light, 
 yellowish white colour and very finely divided. From here 
 it is ready to go to the elevators, and to them it is transport- 
 ed in little cars. The elevators carry it to the top ot the 
 building, and from here, until the completion of the process, 
 the pulp is transported entirely by flowing water. Down it 
 goes through floor after floor until it finally emerges from the 
 steam-heated drying cylinders in a broad web almost as 
 white as snow. There are various processes involved in the 
 meantime, which — though they are of the utmost interest, 
 even to one not scientifically interested — I must leave out 
 on account of lack of space. The product, as we now have 
 it, is ready for the paper makers, and it remains but to cut 
 it and bale it properly, and it is ready foi the market. 
 
 The Maritime Sulphite Fibre Company turns out no less 
 that fifty tons (100,000 pounds) of pulp per day. 
 
 A short distance westward, on the opposite side of the 
 street from the Sulphite Fibre Company's mill, is situated 
 the lumber mill of Senator Snowball, the largest operator in 
 
186 
 
 the Province, as before mentioned. The great proportion of 
 the log's that come to this mill are towed in from other por- 
 tions of Miramichi Bay, a considerable amount coming' down 
 the Tracadie River in Gloucester County. Senator Snowball 
 has cut no less than forty million feet of lumber in a single 
 year, this requiring the employment of about a thousand 
 men. This, of course, is a very exceptional cut, it being 
 estimated that the cut this year will not exceed twenty mil- 
 lion feet. Mr. Ernest Hutchinson, at Douglastovvn, on the 
 other side of the river, cut no less than ten million feet. 
 As Mr. Hutchinson informs me that an average of about 
 forty men are required to g'et out a million feet in a season, 
 this amount would involve the employment of no less than 
 four hundred men in the lumber woods, by this gentlemen 
 alone; and these are but two ot the mill properties at the 
 mouth of the Miramichi River. 
 
 There is no better way of forming some idea of the 
 number of men employed in the lumber woods in New 
 Brunswick in Winter, than to take a trip on some of the 
 main or branch lines of railway near lumbering' sections, 
 during that part of the Fall when the men are gatheiing- to go 
 into the woods. Nearly every wayside station furnished, at 
 least, a few. The trains are patrolled by bosses, each offer- 
 ing the special inducement that his company may give to the 
 men. I remember very well a trip from Tracadie around to 
 Bathurst, along the Gulf Shore and Caraquet Railway in 
 Gloucester Count)'. Prospective lumbermen get in at every 
 station, and one portion of the single passenger car was 
 crowded with men; some were French, a few were Scandi- 
 navian, the majority were of British extraction; some were 
 sailors, some were fishermen and some were lumbermen by 
 profession, that being- their steady employment in the 
 Winter, while in the Summer they shifted for themselves as 
 best they could; not a perfectly satisfactory way of living. 
 Others were farmers who took this method of making a little 
 extra money during the Winter season, and, as the men are 
 found, and as can be imagined, there is little temptation to 
 spend ary considerable amount of money — the nearest store 
 
187 
 
 often being forty or fifty miles distant — they usually came 
 out in the Spring- with a tidy little sum to their credit. 
 
 The lumber camp is one of the jolliest places on earth 
 to spend a moderate amount of time, though I cannot say 
 that I should care to live permanently under the conditions 
 there found. Everyone is good natured, and under the 
 influence of the clear, cold air of the winter, of tramping 
 round through the snow all day, and chopping, the appetites 
 are invariably good, and the diet, which consists for the 
 most patt of pork and beans, and tea, coffee and bread, 
 never seems to cloy. The two most important personages 
 in a lumber camp are the cook and the fiddler; next coming 
 the boss, and finally the men themselves. Though the fiddler 
 is one of these latter, and usually it so happens, of Acadian 
 extraction, his accomplishment commands the respect of 
 everybody, the boss and cook included, and no sooner is 
 supper over than the pipes are lighted, and amid the clouds 
 of smoke, is scraped out every variety of music that is not 
 included in the term classical; and the marvellous step 
 dances that are executed by the light of the smoky camp 
 lanterns, would turn Carmencita green with envy. 
 
 The lumber camps are solid log structures which are 
 ■comfortable in the coldest weather, and what I have said 
 of the best game regions in the Province of New Brunswick, 
 applies to nearly the whole western section of the County of 
 Northumberland. Throughout one section of the County, 
 through the Great Lake regions, the moose and caribou 
 roam supreme, and to a great extent, unmolested. No doubt 
 there are little streamlets here which human eye has never 
 seen, and lakelets that have never borne the weight of a 
 birch bark canoe. Along the Big Sevogle River, on the 
 shores of Mullin's stream lake has fallen a mighfy moose. 
 Near Winigut and Waubigut, and on the barrens around the 
 shores of numerous little woodland lakes, in an almost 
 untrodden wilderness, the wandering caribou has roamed a 
 step too far and his sprightly antlers have crashed thunder- 
 ing down through the undergrowth never to be raised again 
 on the proud head that bore them. Along the Tomogonops, 
 
188 
 
 where little brooks wind their ways through mighty 
 forests, strays the red deer, fleeing like a golden shadow 
 before the hunter has even a trace of his whereabouts. But 
 the crowning sport of all lies practically on the boundary 
 line, where meet the two greater counties whose names are 
 indicative of the first meeting of the rulers of the sea, with 
 the then owners of the land, Northumberland and Resti- 
 gouche. This is the Bald Mountain big game region, 
 generally supposed to be the finest section of its area in the 
 Province; two lakes in the wilderness, at the head waters of 
 two rivers, the Nepisiquit and Tobique, the first flowing into 
 the Gulf of St Lawrence, the second into the Bay of Fundy. 
 Between them is a portage of only three miles ; the road ly- 
 ing between two wilderness hills, Bald Mountain and Twin 
 Mountain, south of the shores of Nictor Lake rises 
 another, and round the bases of all three, roams for the 
 most part unmolested, the black bear. The best time 
 to obtain a shot at the formerly much dreaded bear, 
 though in reality, this animal is as much to be feared,, 
 under ordinary conditions, as a well developed rabbit, is 
 during the season when the whole base of each hill is 
 covered with a mass of luscious, ripe blueberries. The 
 bears then roam through blueberry barren and hillsides, and 
 often can be seen from some distance working away briskly 
 gathering in food to supply the present wants and to lay up 
 fat for the coming winter. 
 
 Dr. Philip Cox oqce told me an amusing instance of the 
 timidity of the black bear once so common in New Bruns- 
 wick : It was in the Summer, and he and a friend were 
 fishing on the Squatook Lake. This year a species ot fish 
 mold had caused great mortality among the fishes in the lake 
 and they would float ashore in considerable quantities, dead 
 or dying. The bears, which are plentiful in that vicinity, 
 immediately appreciated the situation — for a bear is omnivor- 
 ous, and is as fond of an occasional fish diet as he is of berries 
 — and probably liking a change like ourselves, began to feed 
 on the fish wherever they could find them. Dr. Cox and his 
 friend had gone ashore and were seated on the bank a short 
 
189 
 
 distance from the shore having a smoke, when they noticed 
 a bear approaching- along the shore of the lake, now wading 
 in the water and now pushing his way through the tall grass, 
 splashing through the soft mud. He would occasionally stop, 
 and raising his nose, scent carefully for dead fish. We had 
 noted that there was a path around the shore left by the 
 numerous bears that had come on the same errand. The 
 bear was down the wind, and knowing that the sight of the 
 animal is, as a rule poor, we decided to get behind a log and 
 see how close he would come without noticing them. This 
 they accordingly did, crouching down side by side with their 
 heads in full view over the log. The path led between the 
 log and the water, which was only four or five feet distant, 
 and the bear came snuffling along. As he was about to 
 pass them so closely that they could almost touch his side, 
 the)' both sprang up and whooped. The bear snorted, 
 grunted and squealed ; all at once fell on his side in en- 
 deavouring to turn quickly in the slippery mud, covering 
 the two laughing spectators almost from head to foot, 
 and by a few seconds afterward, had fled, squealing and 
 grunting, splashing through the water, and tearing through 
 the rushes along the shore of the lake. After he had reached 
 a safe distance, he took to the woods and was no more 
 seen. This recalls the never-to-be-forgotten incident de- 
 scribed by Nessmiik in "Woodcraft." The old man relates 
 how he sat on a log until a bear, which had been hunting for 
 beech nuts, in a more or less pre-occupied way, wandered 
 up to about ten feet from him; then leaping into the air, 
 with a Comanche war-whoop, he threw his hat at the bear, 
 which after falling over and squealing, retired in anything 
 but good order, much to the edification of the man who never 
 had to lie to tell a good story. I, myself have had the 
 pleasure of chasing a small specimen of the same species 
 down a wide road. The race was a short one, and I was 
 soon left hopelessly behind. 
 
 Upsalquitch Lake lying in this county has already 
 been spoken of in connection with the river of that name. 
 Though I have never visited any of the three lakes, Nictor, 
 
190 
 
 Nepisiquit or Upsalquitch, I believe that this latter 
 resembles, to a great extent, the other two. If the re- 
 ports given by the Indians are correct, Upsalquitch is a 
 finer moose and caribou ground than is the Bald Mountain 
 region. Both of these places, however, can betaken in on the- 
 one trip. Probably the most convenient way of doing this 
 would be to leave Andover, on the St. John River, 
 and go up the Tobique to Nictor Lake and the Bald 
 Mountain hunting ground. Here cross the three mile- 
 portage to Nepisiquit Lake, and atter leaving here, down 
 the Nepisiquit seventeen miles to Portage Brook, and 
 thence to Upsalquitch Lake. About twenty-five miles south- 
 east of Bald Mountain hunting region, is to be found 
 another Bald Mountain in Northumberland County. This is 
 the highest mountain in New Brunswick, 2700 feet in height. 
 The first Bald Mountain on the shores of Nictor Lake,, 
 though several mountains in the Province bear this desig- 
 nation, is about 2550 feet in height, standing second in the- 
 Province. The Northumberland hill, among the Indians 
 known as the Sagamock, like many of the notable physical 
 features of this Province, is connected with the weird, 
 quaint, beautiful legends of Glooscap, a mythical Indian 
 diety, immortalized in the song, verse and story of Eastern 
 Canada. The legends of Glooscap are interesting and well 
 worth studying, though they necessarily find no place in a 
 work of this sort. 
 
 It was mentioned earlier, in speaking of Gloucester 
 County, that large quantities of smelt, one of the most 
 delicious and delicate fish inhabiting the Gulf of St. Lawrence 
 waters, each season run up the numerous harbors and inlets. 
 As soon as the ice is strong enough to b.ar a man's weight 
 in the month of December, elaborate preparations are made 
 for catching these fish in large quantities. Nets with good 
 sized mouths and long trails are put down through long, 
 narrow slits cut in the ice, before each run of the tide, and 
 are not hauled again until the run has ceased; the number of 
 fish obtained in this way at times is almost unbelievable. 
 There is an instance recorded of a man getting no less than. 
 
191 
 
 So barrels of fish at one haul of the net. A barrel holds- 
 about 200 pounds, so there are 10 barrels to the ton of 2000- 
 pounds; the entire haul then, amounted to about eight tons or 
 16,000 pounds. These smelt sell at three cents a pound to 
 the dealers, the price received for single haul amounting to 
 four hundred and eighty dollars, ($480). As far as I know 
 this is the record. To be very conservative let us suppose 
 that a man obtained only 500 pounds of fish per day ; at 
 three cents per pound this would net him fifteen dollars ($15) 
 or about three pounds sterling. 
 
 When visiting Chatham, which is a great country for the 
 smelt fishing industry, one man informed me that, on the 
 previous day he had gotten two tons and a half offish. In 
 speaking to Mr. W. S. Loggie, one of the principal shippers 
 in that district, he informed me that the price varied between 
 two and three cents a pound. This gentleman also told me 
 that he shipped between eight hundred and onethonsand 
 tons per season. This will give an excellent idea ot the ex- 
 tent of the industry. 
 
 The chief market is found at present in the United 
 States, but the high duty which the Americans have put on, 
 makes the industry of much less value than it would other- 
 wise be. In the bay around Newcastle and Chatham, there 
 are between three and four hundred men employed in smelt 
 fishing during the season. Along through the first of the 
 season, the men are allowed farther up into the Miramichi 
 River, but after New Years the law requires that they move 
 down stream beyond Chatham, so as not to interfere with 
 the spawning of the striped bass. About this period the ice 
 becomes very much thicker than earlier, and the weather 
 much colder. Without shelter, smelt fishing through the 
 ice, with the cold Winter wind sweeping across the snowy 
 surface for miles, necessarily is found to be a very cold 
 operation. To obviate this difficulty, the fishermen build 
 small shanties in which they place stoves. They are drag- 
 ged out on the ice to wherever the net is to be placed, and 
 it is one of the sights of the season to see the great white 
 stretches of ice below Chatham, dotted with shanties for miles. 
 
192 
 
 KENT COUNTY. 
 
 The County of Kent, situated north of Westmorland 
 and Queens, and south of Northumberland, is washed on the 
 east by the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It has an 
 area of i , 149,000 acres. The County overlies the carbonifer- 
 ous formation, and throughout its western section, is a 
 .great forest region, and contains but few settlements. 
 
 The agricultural districts lie, as is usual with the east- 
 ern slope counties, along the shores of the Gult. The chief 
 coast waters are Kouchibouguac Bay on the north, and the 
 various harbours further south. The finest of these harbours 
 are those of Richibucto and Buctouche, at the mouths of the 
 rivers of the same name. 
 
 The land in Western Kent, covered to a great extent 
 with spruce, is perhaps the poorest for farming purposes to 
 be found in the Province; but the eastern portion of the 
 county shows a very different condition of things. As 
 typical an agricultural section as can be found here is in the 
 vicinity of Richibucto and Kingston, throughout the lower 
 stretches of the valley of St. Nicholas river. The same type 
 of farming land as is to be found along the shores of 
 Gloucester and Northumberland Counties, e^ist here. 
 
 Practically all that is said of Northumberland County, as 
 far as its general characteristics are concerned, may be ap- 
 plied to Kent. It has no harbour which is to be compared 
 with that of Chatham; the two finest being Richibucto 
 and Buctouche. Most of the coast is enclosed in beaches, 
 forming miles and miles of continuous break water from 
 a mile to three miles from the shore. These beaches 
 or bars form broad lagoons as in the case of Gloucester 
 County, and the Tabusintac in Northumberland County, 
 which form excellent harbours for small craft. There is not, 
 however, any great depth of water throughout most of them. 
 In common with the lagoons of Northumberland and 
 
193 
 
 Gloucester Counties, those of Kent, especially in Kouchi- 
 bougac Bay, are fine shooting- grounds, brant and geese 
 being obtained in large quantities every year. 
 
 The chief rivers are the Kouchibouguac, the Kouchi- 
 bouguacis, Aldouane, the St. Nicholas (into which empties 
 the Richibucto) the Buctouche and Cocagn-?. Along the 
 estuaries of each of these streams are situated fine farms and 
 mill properties for a considerable distance west. 
 
 The same remarks relative to the convenience with 
 which various marine fertilizers may be obtained that 
 were applied to the whole eastern slope, may be ap- 
 plied here, and the lands show the result in many cases of 
 careful farming. There are, however, throughout Eastern 
 Kent County, too many farms that are operated unscientific- 
 all}', and with but second rate results. The farm of Father 
 Michaud,of Buctouche, gives a fair idea of what can be done 
 in wheat raising throughout this section. Here is situated 
 one of the roller mills which have done such fine work 
 throughout the Province in the last year or so. The Govern- 
 ment has done much to encourage the establishment of these 
 mills, the result being that a great deal of money, which 
 formerly went out of the country in buying flour from the 
 West, has been kept in the Province, and the amount of 
 flour from home-grown wheat that is now manufactured in 
 New Brunswick, is large and rapidly increasing. Varieties 
 are coming into prominence, which have been the result of 
 careful experimenting as far as hybridization is concerned; 
 the result being that the tendency to rust has been, to a 
 great extent, eliminated, and the wheat accustomed as 
 thoroughly as possible to the climate of New Brunswick. 
 
 Though the Province can never pretend to be a wheat- 
 producing country, when compared with the land further 
 west, where the great prairies are so well adapted to the 
 growth of that cereal in large quantities, still there is no 
 reason why it should not produce sufficient for its own con- 
 sumption, and perhaps a considerable amount to export, if 
 it can do so at prices comparing with those of the Western 
 product. 
 
194 
 
 The fishing industry of Kent County is an important 
 one, and employs probably one thousand men. Great quanti- 
 ties ot herring-, cod, gaspereaux, mackerel, salmon and lobster 
 are obtained. As sections of the county, notably Buctouche, 
 produce considerable quantities of oysters, the oyster beds 
 off the Buctouche bar are famous far and wide, and in flavor 
 are unexcelled. These are as a rule obtained in limited 
 quantities, and there is a great demand for them. Oysters 
 are to be found practically everywhere along the Gulf Shore 
 in large or small quantities, according- to the locality, but 
 nowhere finer than in Kent County. 
 
 Kent is the site of a lumber industry which is not to be 
 despised; shipping directly from the excellent harbors. The 
 Intercolonial runs through Kent County west of the centre 
 of the county from north to south. It is connected with 
 Richibucto at Kent Junction by the Kent Northern Railway. 
 What has been said relative to the various kinds of game to 
 be found in Northumberland County, applies equally well to 
 Kent. The various rivers teem with fish, and many fine 
 hauls of trout have been taken from the numerous streams 
 in the county. 
 
 WESTMORLAND AND ALBERT COUNTIES. 
 
 The Counties of Westmorland and Albert are situated in 
 the extreme southeastern portion of the Province of New 
 Brunswick. The area of Westmorland County, according to 
 Mr. Chas. H. Lugrin, is 887,300 acres, while that of Albert is 
 435,000 acres; the former having about twice the area of the 
 latter county. Westmorland County has two distinct types 
 of sea coast, more distinct, with the exception of the neigh- 
 bouring County of Cumberland, in Nova Scotia, than are the 
 coasts of any other single section of country in the world. 
 The eastern shore of Westmorland County is washed by the 
 waters of Northumberland Straits, a portion of the great 
 Gulf ot St. Lawrence, while to the southward and westward 
 of the County, the Bay of Fundy rushes in and out of its 
 
195 
 
 terminal bays with greater rapidity than does any tide in the 
 world. The rise and fall of tide in Baie Verte, on the Gulf 
 of St. Lawrence side is from four to six feet, while only 
 fifteen miles across the Isthmus of Chigriecto, the difference 
 between high and low water is no less than fifty feet, this 
 being the greatest tidal depth in the world. To the north, 
 Westmorland County abuts directly on Kent County; on the 
 west on Kings, Queens and Albert; on the south, Albert 
 County, the Bay of Fundy, and Cumberland County, Nova 
 Scotia. 
 
 Westmorland is one of the finest farming Counties in 
 the Province of New Brunswick. The whole eastern portion 
 of the County from Shediac Harbor in the north, down past 
 Cape Tormentine and around into Baie Verte, comes under 
 what I have classified as the eastern slope of the Province. 
 It is drained by numerous rivers, none of which, however, 
 are large, the most important being the Shediac River, the 
 Aboushagan and the Gaspereaux. The western portion of 
 the County is drained on the extreme west by the Canaan 
 River which flows into the River St. John through the 
 Washademoak Lake, the Petitcodiac River and its tributa- 
 ries, the greater portion of this river forming the boundary 
 line between Westmorland and Albert Counties, and the 
 Memramcook River; the last two emptying into Shepody 
 Bay at Dorchester, the shiretown of the County. The 
 Tantramar River, the only other river ot importance, 
 flows through the famous marsh of that name for some 
 twenty-five or thirty miles. At the head waters of this river 
 and along its course, there is a considerable number of 
 marshy lakes which have long been famous for the Dusky 
 Duck and Snipe shooting which is to be found throughout 
 that region. As the two sides of Westmorland County are 
 so different, so is there a decided difference in the methods 
 of farming, and all that has been said of the eastern slope of 
 the Province holds true in the case of eastern Westmorland 
 County. There are a great many excellent farms, the major- 
 ity of which could be very much improved by intelligent 
 work. It is a country of inlets, creeks, lowlands and 
 
196 
 
 marshes, and of white sand dunes blown up by the fresh 
 breezes of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The harbors are, to a 
 great extent, shallow, that of Shediac, in the extreme north- 
 ern portion of the county, being the finest; Point du Chene, 
 with its deep water wharves, which are situated here, being 
 the Gulf of St. Lawrence terminus of the Intercolonial Rail- 
 way of Canada. From here, on the arrival of passenger 
 trains from the west, sail a line of steamships to Summerside, 
 in the smallest of the provinces of Canada, "the garden of 
 " the Gulf," Prince Edward Island. Along this eastern slope, 
 the uplands (the marshes are irregular and of inconsiderable 
 area) is of excellent quality, and two varieties of fertilizer of 
 great value are to bs obtained for the hauling. One is 
 mussel mud, and the other consists of the enormous quanti- 
 ties of different varieties ot seaweed, which are thrown 
 up along the shore. This is true of the whole eastern 
 shore ot Westmorland County. In the southern portion 
 of the count)', that washed by the head waters of 
 the Bay of Fundy, Shepody Bay and Cumberland Basin, 
 with their tributary rivers, entirely different conditions are to 
 be met with. Here great stretches of marsh, or more 
 properly dike-land, for they are not marshes in the ordinary 
 acceptance of the term, are to be found. A marsh as gen- 
 erally understood, refers more especially to a wet ill drained 
 area along the edge of a river, lake or sea shore, on which 
 the quality of hay is far from the best, and which are con- 
 sidered anything but desirable or valuable properties. 
 
 The so called marsh land of Westmorland and Albert 
 Counties, and of the adjoining County of Cumberland, 
 which has been previously described, are in some respects the 
 most wonderfully fertile farming lands in the world, and for 
 their origin and fertility are dependent entirely upon that 
 peculiar body of water, the Bay ot Fundy. As a natural 
 fertilizer in the southern section of the country, instead of 
 the black mussel mud of the Gulf shore, the red clayey silt 
 which forms the resistent soil of the dike-lands, and is 
 locally known as marsh mud, is carted in large quantities on 
 to the uplands, and seems to have a more lasting effect than 
 
197 
 
 any other manure, natural or artificial, yet known. Mr. 
 Lugrin in his hand-book on New Brunswick, published by 
 authority of the Gavernment in 1886, gives an instance of a 
 man in Harvey, Albert County, who manured an upland field 
 with marsh mud; applying 240 loads of mud to a four acre 
 field. The field was so run out when he obtained it, that it 
 only produced two tons of poor weedy hay. It took two men 
 and a team twelve days to apply the coating ot mud during the 
 winter, and the next summer he cut from the same field 
 twelve tons of first-class marketable hay. From that time un- 
 til the book was published, the field had been growing heavy 
 crops, and the line of demarkation between it and the sur- 
 rounding fields was visible, after it had been cropped for 
 seventeen years without further manuring. Another farmer 
 gave Mr. Lugrin the following instance of the remarkable 
 effects produced by this natural fertilizer which costs nothing 
 but the labour of hauling. The man in question broke up 
 an acre and a half of upland and sowed it with oats; from 
 this he obtained twenty bushel. In the Winter following he 
 spread upon the field one hundred and fifty loads of marsh 
 mud, and the following Spring he sowed it again with oats. 
 The yield this time was one hundred and forty bushels. 
 Very many instances of this sort can be cited, and to any 
 farmer who knows his business, and the comparative value of 
 fertilizers, these facts will come home strongly. It amounts 
 to this, that if a farmer has an upland farm situated con- 
 veniently for obtaining marsh mud, he can manure it to his 
 heart's content for the cost of the labour required in hauling 
 the manure. 
 
 This marsh mud can not only be obtained around the 
 shores of the Bay, but in every creek and river that is strong- 
 ly affected by its wonderful tides. The two most remarkable 
 of these rivers are indeed wonderful sights to any one not 
 acquainted with the tides of the Bay of Fundy. These are 
 the Memramcook and Petitcodiac before mentioned. The 
 Memramcook, very much the narrower of the two streams, 
 and very much shorter river, lies wholly within Westmor- 
 land County, and though only a little over twenty 
 
198 
 
 miles in length is navigable at high tide for large 
 vessels through almost half its entire course. If our 
 first sight of the remarkable stream happens to be when 
 the tide is in, and we see it as it winds through the 
 marsh somewhere between Dorchester at its mouth and upper 
 Dorchester, between four and five miles up stream, we will 
 note that it is a wide, placid looking river, the waters of 
 which are rendered almost entirely opaque by the great 
 quantity of red silt or mud held in suspension. The water 
 throughout the headwaters of the Bay of Fundy is charac- 
 terized by its comparatively brilliant, brownish red colour. 
 We see no particular current in the river, especially if we 
 arrive practically at high water. If we stay but a little while, 
 however, a remarkable change becomes apparent in an 
 almost increditably short time; the river which before was 
 so placid, quickly changes into a boiling, eddying, swift- 
 flowing stream, which rushes outward, sinking in level 
 rapidly. As it goes it swirls past every obstruction, per- 
 haps cutting under it and carrying it along with it. If we 
 return four or five hours afterwards, the sight which meets 
 our eyes, is one which will always be remembered by 
 anyone who has not been fortunate enough to have before 
 witnessed the vagaries of the Bay of Fund)'. Where, but a 
 few hours before there was a broad stretch of water, now 
 nothing is left but long, furrowed, shining, slippery banks 
 running down on each side; sloping to where a diminutive 
 creek flows bubbling along toward the great bay below, and 
 this is all that remains of the Memramcook River. An hour 
 or two later, and the stream will be rushing in as swiftly as 
 a little while before it was rushing out, and by the time the 
 twelve hours has elapsed, the river will be again deep enough 
 to float the largest warships in the British Navy, without 
 danger of their touching ground. 
 
 Thus, the inhabitants at the headwaters of the Bay 
 of Fundy have mile upon mile of natural dry dock at their dis- 
 posal, and when a vessel needs to have some work done on 
 her bottom, it is only necessary that she be towed to some 
 convenient creek on the sloping beds of which she will 
 
199 
 
 rest comfortably as the tide goes down, and then listed 
 suitably. 
 
 What we have said of the Memramcook River, applies 
 also to the Petitcodiac, a stream which is, however, fully 
 four times as long as the first one described, the result being 
 that it has a very considerable deeper channel throughout its 
 lower stretches at low tide. The Petitcodiac River possesses 
 one of the finest examples ot a rare physiographical pheno- 
 menon that is to be found in the world. Following the river 
 up from its mouth, we find that it runs uniformly in a north- 
 westerly direction until it reaches the city of Moncton, where 
 it bends sharply until we see that its line of flow comes from 
 a little south of west. On account of this peculiarity, the 
 city' of Moncton, before being named in honor of Lord 
 Monkton, was known as The Bend. The river narrows 
 uniformly from its mouth to Moncton and some distance 
 above, and the tide which rushes up Shepody Bay is received 
 in the open mouth and becomes more and more compressed 
 as the tidal wave continues up river. 
 
 By the time Moncton is reached, this wave has culmina- 
 ted in what is known as a bore, and as the forerunner of the 
 incoming tide rushes up stream in a wave extending across 
 the river, and during spring tides, sometimes attaining a 
 height at Moncton, of seven or eight teet. This height I 
 calculated personally, and cannot vouch for its correct- 
 ness, as the instruments at hand were exceedingly crude 
 and were washed away before the observation was com- 
 pleted. The beginning of the bore can sometimes be 
 noticed as far down stream as Stony Creek, seven miles 
 below Moncton, while it can be traced up stream at times 
 as far as Turtle Creek, some eight miles above that city. 
 The height of the bore varies tremendously between neap 
 and spring tides. 
 
 This phenomenon is one which always forms an attraction 
 for the stranger, and there are but few cases of disappointed 
 sight-seers. Probably the most satisfactory time to see the 
 bore is at full moon, when it is due at Moncton between nine 
 and ten o'clock. The bore is then at its height, and the 
 
200 
 
 majority of people who prefer getting the first impressions of 
 the phenomenon by moonlight, begin to crowd the wharves 
 by between eight and nine. The exact time of the arrival 
 of the so-called wave is apparently somewhat of an uncer- 
 tainty; no doubt it is retarded or accelerated by the direction 
 and force of the wind in the bay below. 
 
 Some little time after nine, when every eye is turned in 
 a southeasterly direction toward the bend aro: nd which the 
 bore is ultimately to come, a low rumbling roar is heard 
 which gradually increases, and gives one unaccustomed to 
 the sound, a sense of insecurity. It grows louder and 
 louder, hardly sounding like the movement of water, and in 
 a little while the waiters see a long, low, white wall of foam 
 rush into the silver path ot the moon, and stretching from 
 bank to bank, swing majestically around the curve in the 
 river, covering the thousands of acres of bare, glinting 
 mud-flats, as it foams and roars toward the wharf 
 on which the spectators are standing. At first sight 
 its motion does not seem to be especially rapid, but as 
 it rushes near enough for one to see the wavelets that 
 are thrown up on its crest, the realization of the distance 
 which it has travelled in such a remarkably short time, comes 
 home, and again the sense of insecurity presents itselt with 
 redoubled strength. The mis-named wave swings its right 
 flank in, until in the midst of the roar you hear the splash 
 as the troubled waters strike the base of the wharf on which 
 you are standing, and looking athwart the stream you see 
 the long, white, slightly curving front that moves on like a 
 dozen squadrons of cavalry in line. In an instant it has 
 passed, and behind it comes a boiling, seething flood of 
 brown water, thick with the mud that has been washed from 
 the flats in the up stream progress of the bore. In a minute 
 or two the water has increased considerably in body, and the 
 current flows more quietly though hardly less swiftly. An 
 hour sees a remarkable change in the river, and two hours- 
 and a half after the bore has past, over the flats where it 
 rushed lies water enough, to float the largest ocean, 
 steamer. 
 
201 
 
 Thus we have a tide which takes but between two and 
 three hours to rise a distance of thirty odd feet, while it 
 occupies nine hours and some odd minutes in reaching low 
 water level again. It runs out until met by the incoming 
 bore. There is slack water at high tide for a little while, 
 and then the outward rush begins, which is far more gradual 
 than is the inward one. 
 
 In navigating the Petitcodiac River, as is the case, for 
 that matter, with all the tributaries of the upper Bay of 
 Fundy, very peculiar conditions obtain. The tide always has 
 to be consulted, as the speed of the current is so great 
 that even if a steamer were powerful enough to make 
 her way against it readily, it would be very poor economy, 
 and on the other hand, when she takes advantage of it, the 
 most remarkable runs are made, a steamer of but ordinary 
 speed making her twenty knots an hour without difficulty. 
 As far as time tables are concerned, these conditions are 
 necessarily not an advantage, but in the case of either 
 steamer or sailing vessel whose ultimate desire is to get to 
 its destination, the high speed of the tidal flow cannot be 
 considered an unmixed evil. The tides are so thoroughly 
 understood by the men who navigate these waters, that it is 
 only very rarely that an accident occurs. The currents 
 themselves have eroded and carried away practically every 
 dangerous reef about the headwaters of the bay, and thus 
 Shepody Bay, Cumberland Basin and Minas Basin in Nova 
 Scotia are nothing but vast harbours. 
 
 Distribution of Population. 
 
 Along the Gulf of St. Lawrence coast are scattered a 
 considerable number of small towns and villages, such as, 
 Barachois, Aboushagan, Cape Bald, Shemogue, which pos- 
 sesses an excellent harbour famed for its oyster beds, Bay- 
 field and so forth. Port Elgin and Baie Verte are both 
 somewhat larger places; the former possessing - a fine woollen 
 
202 
 
 mill, and both are near the best lumber section of Westmor- 
 land County. The town of Sackville is situated on the 
 upland that rises from the northern edge of the Tantramar 
 marsh, while ten miles from it, almost directly west across 
 the base of Cape Meranguin, lies Dorchester, the shiretown 
 of the County. Sackville though a representative farming 
 centre, is the site of several industries of other kinds. Here 
 among other manufactories is situated the Fawcett foundry. 
 Sackville is also the site of the University of Mount Allison 
 College. 
 
 From this town running eastward to the extreme point 
 of Cape Tormentine runs the New Brunswick and Prince 
 Edward Island Railway. At the point where the railway 
 terminates, the distance across the Straits of Northumber- 
 land to Prince Edward Island is but nine miles. Dorchester, 
 as is also the case with Sackville, was the seat of a very 
 extensive ship-building trade, but wooden shipping has 
 declined, and with it has declined the beautiful little town 
 that was once the pride of Westmorland County. It stands 
 in one of the finest situations in the Province, just at the 
 mouth of the Memramcook Valley. Built upon a rock, it is 
 surrounded by dike-lands, which form here as elsewhere, one 
 of the chief sources of wealth to its farmers. It cannot be 
 credited that a town as well situated agriculturally as is 
 Dorchester, and having as fine a harbour, its wharves being 
 washed by the tide of Shepody Bay itself, can much longer 
 remain in such an unprogressive condition, as has formerly 
 been the case. Independent of the agricultural changes that 
 are being so rapidly felt throughout the whole Province, the 
 awakening has already begun. Not far from the village a 
 copper mine, which before had been worked in but a de- 
 sultory manner, has been taken hold of with a will, and now 
 thousands of tons of ore are being turned out by the large 
 number of men ther employed. 
 
 Three miles above Dorchester in the Memramcook val- 
 ley is situated the small village of Upper Dorchester, also on 
 the line of the Intercolonial Railway, while eight miles above 
 the shiretown is Memramcook, a considerable village of 
 
20c 
 
 which a large number of the inhabitants are ot French 
 extraction. A short distance below Memramcook is situated 
 St. Joseph's College, a Roman Catholic Institution which 
 has done some excellent work. 
 
 Shediac is a beautiful little town which, of late years, 
 has become a great favourite as a watering place. It is 
 situated on a harbour of the same name; its port, Point du 
 Chene, at the mouth of the harbour having before been 
 mentioned as the Gulf of St. Lawrence terminal of the In- 
 tercolonial Railway. Petitcodiac and Salisbury, the most 
 important towns in the Western portion of the county, are 
 both farming centres and both are advancing, but not as 
 rapidly as one would wish to see. 
 
 MONCTON. 
 
 In the City of Moncton, next in size to St. John, are 
 about ten-thousand inhabitants, and it is situated on the bend 
 of the Petitcodiac River on the north side of the stream. 
 Moncton contains the repair shops and is the official centre 
 of the Intercolonial Railway, consequently derives a con- 
 siderable share of its importance from this fact, the railway 
 employes and their families making up a large proportion of 
 the population. Besides the splendid railway facilities 
 which are afforded, the city, being at the junction between 
 the main line of the Intercolonial Railway and the branch 
 which runs to St. John, it is situated at the head of naviga- 
 tion for the Petitcodiac River, surrounded on all sides by the 
 carboniferous formation of this part of the Province. The 
 city lies on level ground; its two most important suburbs- 
 are Sunny Brae and Lewisville. 
 
 Its market taps an excellent farming centre along the 
 Petitcodiac valley both up and down stream, and is con- 
 veniently situated with relation to Coverdale in'Albert County 
 across the river. The streets are wide and for the most 
 part lined with shade trees. The places'of business and^the 
 churches are solidly constructed, and give the city a modern 
 
204 
 
 appearance. To the north lie a number of moderate sized 
 settlements, among which are Scotch settlement and Irish- 
 town. 
 
 Four or five miles down the Petitcodiac valley, on the 
 west side, is situated Fox Creek, while directly across the 
 river in the neighbouring county, lies Lower Coverdale. By 
 rail it is but seventeen miles from Moncton to Shediac on 
 Northumberland Straits, and as the city is inclined to be 
 rather warm in Summer, many of the residents have their 
 summer houses along the shores of the beautiful bay that 
 forms the harbour of that prettly little town. Moncton is 
 the site of a number of manufacturing industries, the chief 
 among which is indicated by the presence ot a large cotton 
 factory at the lower end of the city. This industry alone 
 gives employment to five hundred hands. 
 
 The fisheries at the head waters of the Bay of Fundy 
 are of great value, large numbers of shad which are generally 
 conceded co be unequalled, due no doubt to the rich food 
 found in the muddy waters of that portion of the bay, are 
 obtained by the drift net method boats drifting up and down 
 with the tide attached to one end of a long flat net. On 
 account of the high tides here, another peculiar method of 
 fishing can be resorted to. It has so far, however, been 
 carried on only in a desultory manner, in each case, however, 
 giving excellent returns. At low water when the tide is 
 perhaps two miles away from high water mark, some quick 
 bed that winds its way up through the flats is chosen, using 
 it as a centre, and long fences are built running diagonally 
 in towards the mainland, forming an obtuse angle opening 
 inward; the apex of this V is in the centre of the creek. The 
 fence constructed of spruce boughs is usually eight or nine 
 feet high in the centre, tapering to about the height of four 
 feet at the ends. These weirs as they are called, are usually 
 built by several men, six or seven. The whole take their 
 turns as the tides come around, each man having the catch 
 of every, say, seventh tide. The fish come over and around 
 the ends of this fence, as the tide rises, and as it falls, and 
 they endeavor to go out with it they are caught in the wings 
 
205 
 
 and keeping close to the bottom swim down towards the 
 apex of the V, before they know that they are entrapped — 
 the fence being a very long affair, each wing perhaps being a 
 quarter of a mile — the tide has fallen until the top of the 
 weir is above the water and as it sinks lower and lower 
 a great number of fish become huddled into the 
 creek bed at the point of junction of the two fences. 
 A cart is now taken out and filled with the fish that have 
 been trapped with so little labor, great quantities being 
 taken in this way. In one of the weirs I have seen at once 
 four or five sturgeon, perhaps six or seven feet in length, 
 a few salmon, perhaps a half a dozen, a considerably larger 
 number of shad, aggregating possibly three or four dozen of 
 fish or in some cases upwards of a hundred, a great quantity 
 of herring and gaspereaux, often to be measured by the 
 barrel, and a multitude of smelt, torn cods and other small 
 fry. Among these are to be found a very large number of 
 flounders, one of the most delicious of all sea fish, closely 
 resembling the English sole and here but very little appre- 
 ciated. I have actually seen these fish together with smelt, 
 torn cods and sturgeon taken by the farmers and used as 
 manure on their lands. The result on the land was 
 necessarily very fine, but it was one of the worst types of 
 unintentional waste. I have several times taken a half 
 bushel basket down to a weir when the proprietor was on 
 his way to get a cart load of fish, and filled it with flounders 
 and smelt and other fish by simply putting them into the 
 basket. 
 
 ALBERT COUNTY. 
 
 Albert County lying to the westward and southward of 
 Westmorland County, is about one-half the size of the latter 
 and not by any means as well developed. Its innumerable 
 small rivers and streams empty into the Bay of Fundy 
 or its tributaries, the Petitcodiac River forming two-thirds of 
 the boundary line between Albert and Westmorland Counties. 
 The most important town in Albert is Hillsborough, situated 
 
206 
 
 about seven miles above the mouth of the Petitcodiac. Hills- 
 borough lies on a slope on the western side of the Petitcodiac, 
 opposite the village of Beliveau in Westmorland County, 
 where is situated one of the finest stone quarries of the kind 
 to be found. As is the case with most of the towns we meet 
 with throughout the Maritime Provinces, Hillsborough is a 
 farming centre, but it is more than this, a short distance be- 
 hind the town are to be found magnificent gypsum quarries, 
 and the quality of plaster turned from these mines is unsur- 
 passed. But some three or four miles south of the town are 
 situated the world-famous Albert mines, where once in great 
 quantities was found a mineral peculiar to that region, about 
 which geologists, mineralogists and miners all alike were 
 puzzled. Some called it an asphalt, some a bitumen, and 
 some insisted that the product was nothing but a petroleum 
 oil, which had been rid of many of its volatile products 
 through the process of distillation. The fact remains that a 
 large seam of this peculiar product was worked for a con- 
 siderable period, finding a ready market at almost ridiculous 
 prices for a coal, and finally the seam petered out, and, as 
 the dip was very heavy, and the depth which had been at- 
 tained, very considerable, it was no longer profitable to work 
 it, and the Albert mine closed down. 
 
 This can be mentioned as but one of the instances of the 
 occurrence of petroleum products throughout this Eastern 
 section of New Brunswick, if indeed they were such. 
 Throughout various portions of Westmorland County, as 
 well as through Albert and Kent Counties, are to be found 
 considerable and very frequent out crop of bituminous shale. 
 In some portions of Westmorland County, especially near 
 Memramcook, quantities of crude petroleum have been 
 obtained from wells bored either for that or some other 
 purpose. None of the counties have been thoroughly ex- 
 plored with regard to this matter, until within the last year 
 or so, when the Government has taken the matter in hand, 
 and now has drills at work, with the intention of discovering 
 the possibilities of finding petroleum in large quantities. 
 Every tendency as far as the formation is concerned, would 
 
207 
 
 lead one to suppose that it is, at least, extremely probable 
 that oil will here be found in paying quantities. 
 
 Just outside the mouth of the Petitcodiac River, is 
 situated the beautiful village of Hopewell Cape, the shire- 
 town of the county. This is but twenty-four miles from 
 Moncton by river, and, as in the case of Hillsborough, is on 
 the line of Albert Railway. It lies on a slight slope 
 across Shepody Bay, toward Dorchester, while behind it 
 rises Hopewell Hill, Some distance farther down the coast, 
 four miles or so from the village, Shepody Mountain rises 
 to a height of a thousand feet, and from its top can 
 be obtained what is undoubtedly the finest view which 
 can be found by the sight-seer in the southeastern portion 
 of the Province. To the north stretches the valley of the 
 Petitcodiac River with the smoke that hangs over Monc- 
 ton in the distance. The view of Hopewell Cape is hidden 
 by the intervening hills, but beyond lie the mouths of 
 the two rivers, with Dorchester nearly twelve miles distant 
 showing up to advantage. Along to the eastward lies the low 
 rocky shore of Cape Meranquin, while across the two ex- 
 treme head waters of the Bay of Fundy, Shepody Bay and 
 Cumberland Basin can be seen the town of Amherst twenty 
 odd miles away. To the southward the Bay of Fundy 
 itself stretches out to Cape Enrage, the shore of Nova Scotia 
 looming blue in the distance. To the westward of the moun- 
 tain, the forest hides the numerous little settlements, and to 
 the eye it seems as if there stretched an unbroken wilderness 
 to the horizon. 
 
 Between the mountain and the village lies Cape Demoi- 
 selle, where are situated the famous Hopewell Cape rocks, 
 the high cape being cut off sharply by the fierce tides of the 
 bay, which have modelled the rocky face into a thousand and 
 one quaint forms, which have been admired by travellers 
 ever since the region was known. Here quaint archways 
 are cut sometimes so small that a man can hardly crawl 
 through the opening, at others, large enough for a load of 
 hay to go through untouched. Now a deep cave can be 
 followed in by the light of a smoky flickering birch bark 
 
208 
 
 torch for some distance. The largest of these caves, the 
 Devil's Den, is popularly supposed to run in a mile or so, 
 and to end somewhere in the bowels of the earth, under 
 Shepody mountain. I explored the place, about which I had 
 heard so much, by the light of a birch bark torch, which 
 went out after I had crawled perhaps twenty-five feet through 
 a low arched gallery, and I was left to imagine the rest. An 
 experience somewhat similar to this, probably in some fertile 
 imagination, gave rise to the stories relative to the tremend- 
 ous depth of the cave. 
 
 Sometimes the tide cuts entirely around some portion of 
 the cliff more dense than the surrounding stone, and leaves 
 it standing out, larger above, and with a rounded neck below. 
 The frost and rains may, with their weathering, supply 
 features perhaps very grotesque or perhaps very hard to 
 trace. A little bit of soil will nestle in some crevice near the 
 top of the rock; and in this will grow one or two spruce 
 trees serving for plumes in the cap, and the rough resem- 
 blance to a human head and neck will be complete. There 
 are a thousand variations in the forms taken on by these 
 quaint stones, and one can well spend a day in admiring the 
 variety and beauty of this novel type of landscape. Tech- 
 nically these rocks stand among the finest types of one class 
 of tidal erosion in the world. 
 
 Farther down the shore are situated Riverside, Harvey 
 and Albert, the latter place being the home of the present 
 Lieutenant-Governor of the Province, Hon. A. R. McClelan, 
 while below Cape Enrage on the west side of Salisbury Bay 
 and at the mouth of the Upper Salmon River, lies the little 
 town of Alma, one of the most beautiful situations in the 
 county. 
 
 Those already mentioned are the most important towns 
 and villages on the east side of the county, while in the west 
 section, Elgin, connected with the Intercolonial Railway by 
 the Elgin branch, running to Petitcodiac, is a busy little 
 rural town 
 
209 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF TANTRAMAR AND OTHER MARSHES IN 
 THE REGION OF THE BAY OF FUNDY. 
 
 It would be difficult, if not impossible, for anyone not 
 acquainted with a region of the type of that surrounding the 
 Bay of Fundy, or for that matter, with the Bay of Fundy 
 itself, to form any conception of what this typical dike-land or 
 so-called marsh, which surrounds the extreme headwaters of 
 that peculiar body of water, could be like. 
 
 To the Bay of Fundy and its peculiarities, the Tantra- 
 mar marsh, so-called, and the other marshes like it, but of 
 less extent, owe their origin. 
 
 The Bay of Fundy is a long arm of the sea, extending 
 for 150 odd miles in a northeasterly direction, between New 
 Brunswick and Nova Scotia, and narrowing from a breadth 
 of some 70 miles at its mouth, to only two or three miles at 
 its extreme headwaters. The shores of the Bay are compar- 
 atively smooth, the only indentations being the proportion- 
 ately small mouths of the well formed harbours or inlets, 
 thus the tidal wave of the North Atlantic is received in an 
 open mouth which narrows gradually, running towards the 
 head, and finally the tidal wave, which at first was low,, 
 and of great extent is heaped up into a tide that is unequalled 
 in any part of the world. 
 
 The height of this tide culminates in Shepody Bay, at 
 the point where the mouths of the Petitcodiac and Memram- 
 cook rivers converge to their junction. At the point between 
 these rivers, the tide has a rise and fall of about 50 feet, and 
 a few miles below this, at Buck's Flats, the distance between 
 the extreme high and low water marks is about three miles. 
 It is safe to say that nowhere in the world is this distance 
 equalled. 
 
 During the spring tides, the tide in this bay, as in other 
 cases, rises considerably above its average high water leveL 
 In this instance, of course, the difference is very much more 
 
210 
 
 marked than would be the case if the rise and fall were of 
 the ordinary type — from four to six feet. The result is that 
 there are vast stretches of flat country, which, by the deposit 
 of silt during the spring tides, have been raised above the 
 level of ordinary high water mark. 
 
 It can be readily seen that by closing out the sea, by the 
 ■use of sea-walls, or dikes as they are here called, which are 
 built of sufficient height to keep out this spring tide which 
 may have a height three, four or even six feet greater than 
 the average, it is possible to convert the vast fiats, which are 
 subject to the inroads of the sea during spring tides, into 
 comparatively dry plains, to which the sea may find its way, 
 only from the breaking of the dikes, or when some special 
 gap is opened for its ingress. The closing off of these 
 marshes from the sea brings about a material result. The 
 land is thus freed from salt, and, as it is naturally very 
 fertile, is then rid from the coarse salt hay, which originally 
 grew upon it, and which is very readily replaced by better 
 qualities of so-called English hays, such as Timothy, Couch, 
 Browntop, etc. In a peculiar manner, this land is self-sus- 
 taining, for the original silt is so productive of heavy growths 
 of hays and grains, that no other manure is needed; and the 
 only thing necessary to cover this land with the desirable 
 coating of silt, when the other is run out is, in the fall, after 
 the crops have been gathered, to open a way by which the 
 sea may flow over the dike-lands, during the spring tides in 
 winter, and deposits a fresh layer of the life-giving soil. 
 
 The greatest amount of labor, in connection with these 
 marshes, is that entailed in constructing the sea wall to 
 protect them along the sea front and the banks of the numer- 
 ous creeks. These creeks are simply the estuaries of streams 
 which flow down from the mainland, and after a long 
 winding journey, course out through the flat dike lands into 
 the open sea. 
 
 The other less onerous labor, in connection with making 
 these marshes fertile, is that required in the draining. On 
 account of their extreme flatness, and the lack of porosity of 
 
211 
 
 their soil, the dike lands have to be carefully and systematic- 
 ally drained to prevent the possibility of surface water 
 remaining- for any length of time in the position to which it 
 may flow. The drains are made at right angles to each 
 other, sometimes as much as four feet in depth and very 
 narrow; these lead into larger main drains, which are finally 
 conducted into some convenient creek bed, thence out to the 
 •dikes and through the dikes to the sea. 
 
 If an opening were left in the dike, of course, the sea 
 could as readily flow in as could the surface water flow out; 
 to obviate this a specially constructed aboideau or sluiceway 
 has to be devised with a swinging valve gate, which will 
 admit of the out-flow of surface water, but which will im- 
 mediately close when the tide backs up against it. 
 
 The silt of which these marshes are formed, is of a 
 brownish red color, of a clayey constituency, and is deposited 
 to a very considerable depth some distance from the uplands. 
 Owing to the presence of iron salts, and to their different 
 stages of oxidation, the clay presents a considerable diversity 
 in color in different situations. 
 
 It may be said however, that all alike is wonderfully 
 fertile, and on account of the ease of cultivation, the lack of 
 any expenditure necessary in maintaining these dike-lands 
 and keeping the dikes and ditches in repair, when coupled 
 with the enormous fertility, necessarily renders these lands a 
 very valuable possession to any farmer. 
 
 Suppose that during some particular winter, the water is 
 let in on some portion of marsh to deposit its coat of silt. In 
 the early Spring, no sooner would the breach in the dike made 
 for the purpose of letting in the water have been closed up 
 or the gate of the aboideau, if that were the method em- 
 ployed, dropped, than a crop of coarse salt hay would spring 
 up with tremendous rapidity of growth, clothing, in a few 
 days, the miles and miles of level brown flats, with a coat of 
 the greenest verdure under the sun. During the first season, 
 after the water has been admitted, the crop would be a com- 
 paratively poor one of salt hay, due to the large amount of 
 saline elements remaining in the marsh in that season, and 
 
212 
 
 not thoroughly eradicate until the next year. The following- 
 Summer, however, the newly- manured dike-lands would 
 produce magnificent crops of the best quality of English hay. 
 This will continue year after year until perhaps six or seven 
 years, varying with the quality of the marsh, have elapsed. 
 Then the crop of English hay becomes poor, and tor four or 
 five years longer the land will grow very fine and luxurious 
 crops of broad-leaf hay. This hay often attains an average 
 height of from four and a half to five feet, while some of the 
 blades may attain to a height of six, seven or even eight 
 feet. It is a very heavy grass of excellent quality. 
 
 The largest of all the dike-lands at the head waters 
 of the Bay of Fundy, and perhaps the most typical of them 
 all, is what is generally known as the Tantramar marsh, 
 famous both from its agricultural and literary aspect. 
 This beautiful stretch of hay land is situated to the 
 south and east of Sackville, between that village and the 
 boundary line between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. It 
 extends in one direction, without interruption, for 13)^ miles 
 and varies in width from four to eight miles. This is the largest 
 uninterrupted area of dike land in the Maritime Provinces; 
 another one, almost equally large, is situated on the Nova 
 Scotia side, near the town of Amherst in that Province. 
 
 The sight on the Tantramar marsh, during the later 
 period of the summer, near the time for harvesting English 
 hay, is one that has but to be seen to be remembered. On 
 the road between Amherst and Sackville, which traverses the 
 marsh, and which is as level as a floor, one can see to the 
 horizon, on either side, nothing but a vast plain of waving 
 hay. From your feet stretch for mile after mile this enorm- 
 ous level sea of grass, undulating under the influence of the 
 breeze that is practically always blowing from the Bay of 
 Fundy, fresh and clear, across these great uninterrupted 
 stretches. Here and there run the higher green ridges 
 where the dikes are to be traced, while on every hand are 
 seen the barns which are soon to hold the crops that are 
 now waving before you. 
 
213 
 
 Later in the year (in Autumn) the great hay-stacks — for 
 the barns are incapable of holding the enormous amount of 
 Tiay which is grown on these wonderful self-sustaining 
 marshes — form a prominent and quaint feature of the land- 
 scape. 
 
 The average price of dike-land in this region, varies 
 from one hundred ($100) dollars, about ^20, to one hundred 
 and fifty ($150) dollars, about ^30 per acre, according to the 
 situation, to the advantages in connection with the upland, 
 and to its own fertility. 
 
 It is not to be supposed, however, that hay is the only 
 crop that can be raised on this quality of land. Oats makes 
 a most successful crop, as under certain conditions, do other 
 grains. 
 
 One may safely say that one-half the possibilities of this 
 type of land, with regard to the variety of crops which can 
 be raised upon it, are not known. Very little experimenting 
 has been done, and what has been done has not been carried 
 on in a very systematic manner. 
 
 Though moderate sized marshes are to be found some 
 distance from the head-waters of the Bay of Fundy, the 
 largest are of necessity, to be found where the tides are the 
 highest. There are some excellent dike lands in the vicinity 
 of lower Albert County, and in the region around the head of 
 Shepody Bay, especially near Dorchester, as also through 
 the Cumberland Basin district where the Tantramar is situ- 
 ated. Around Minus Basin, in Nova Scotia, are to be found 
 other very extensive marshes, much resembling those pre- 
 viously described A considerable quantity of the hay which 
 is made on these marshes, is taken immediately to the up- 
 lands; some of it, however, for convenience, is stored in 
 barns on the dike-lands themselves, and a considerable 
 amount on the more extensive marshes, as in the case of 
 the Tantramar, is made into large cocks; after this has been 
 harvested, great quantities of it are pressed at the barns on 
 the marshes, ready for shipment. On account of its fine 
 quality it commands a ready market, and unfortunately for 
 the farmers in this region, furnishes a strong incentive to 
 
214 
 
 make their farming consist of raising hay and selling it to 
 the exclusion of every other branch of the industry. With 
 facilities such as are here presented, it can be readily appre- 
 ciated that no more ideal situation can be found in any 
 country, for extensive stock raising, either for dairying 
 purposes or for meat; and with a country now as close to the 
 British market, and having the virtual distance shortened 
 every day by the better facilities in steamship transportation, 
 it is obvious that a chance such as this, should form a 
 striking attraction for the class of farmer who knows his 
 business and attends to it as he should. 
 
 CHARLOTTE COUNTY. 
 
 The County of Charlotte lies in the extreme southwest 
 of New Brunswick. According to Mr. Lugrin, the County 
 has an area of 822,500 acres. The Island of Grand Manan> 
 lying well out in the Bay of Fundy together with the Wolves, 
 Campobello and Deer Island and the host of little islets- 
 lying further inward, is a portion of Charlotte County. The 
 County borders on the north and east of York, Sunbury, 
 Queens, Kings and Saint John. On the west it is bounded: 
 by the Saint Croix River following the boundary between 
 Canada and the United States at this Point. On the south 
 of the County flow the waters of the Bay of Fundy. The 
 agricultural sections are situated above the coast and much 
 resemble those of western Saint John County, having a con- 
 siderable area of marsh land. The shore line is cut into a 
 large number of bays and harbors, the most important of 
 these being Mace's Bay and Passamaquoddy Bay, the latter 
 being defended from the sea by the great number of out- 
 lying islands, the whole forming a fine harbor. On a point 
 running out into the bay is situated the town of Saint 
 Andrews, the shiretown of the County. Saint Andrews is 
 the centre of one of the largest fishing industries of the 
 Province, the surrounding waters swarming with various 
 varieties of fish. The canning of sardines has become 
 
215 
 
 an important industry here for the last few years and is 
 capable of great expansion. The town is situated at the 
 mouth of the Saint Croix River and in the last few years 
 has attained great favor as a watering- place among- Ameri- 
 cans. Both here and at Campobello fine hotels have 
 been erected, which are capable of accommodating large 
 numbers of guests. The County has a very considerable 
 lumber trade not however, comparing with that of Saint 
 John or Northumberland. At Saint George, a pretty little 
 town lying a few miles up the Magaguadavic and near here 
 are situated fine red granite quarries, giving employment to 
 a considerable number of men. St. Stephen, another of the 
 more important towns of the County is situated on the Saint 
 Croix River, opposite the American town of Calais. The 
 interior of the County is well provided with lakes, many of 
 which contain great numbers of fish. Throughout the 
 northern section of the County considerable quantities of red 
 deer are killed. The sections is well provided with railways 
 connecting with Saint John and the Intercolonial through 
 the Shore Line and at McAdam Junction north with the 
 Canadian Pacific Railway, so that it is most conveniently 
 situated as far as its transportation facilities are concerned. 
 Besides there is every facility for transportation by water, 
 the steamers from Saint Andrews connecting with the boats 
 of the International Line running between Saint John and 
 Boston. At Milltown adjoining Saint Stephen, is a large 
 cotton mill which gives employment to a considerable num- 
 ber of hands. 
 
 GOVERNMENT. 
 
 THE DOMINION. 
 
 The form of government in New Brunswick and in the 
 Dominion of Canada is modelled upon that of Great Britain, 
 but the system of popular government has been extended to 
 embrace municipal matters. There is no privileged class or 
 hereditary legislature. 
 
 There are three governing bodies (so to speak) in Canada; 
 the Parliament of Canada, the Local Legislatures and the 
 
216 
 
 City and Municipal Corporations, and in the choice of the 
 membership of these bodies, every man, practically speaking-, 
 has a voice. The system of self-government is therefore 
 about as complete as can be desired. 
 
 THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL. 
 
 At the head of the Government of the Dominion is the 
 Governor-General, who is the representative of Her Majesty 
 the Queen, is appointed by the Crown, and usually holds office 
 for five years. His powers in relation to matters coming 
 within the jurisdiction of parliament are similar to those 
 exercised by the Queen, but are modified somewhat by the 
 circumstances of the Dominion, and the results to be antici- 
 pated in the independent working out in a new country of 
 the principles of the British constitution. The official 
 residence of the Governor- General is at Ottawa, in the 
 Province of Ontario. 
 
 The Parliament of Canada consists of two branches: the 
 Senate, and the House ot Commons. 
 
 THE SENATE. 
 
 The members of the Senate are appointed by the Gov- 
 ernor-General on the advice of his council. Their tenure 
 of office is for life, or until they have become disqualified 
 under the Act regulating their appointment. Members of 
 the senate receive a sessional allowance of $1,000 for each 
 session of parliament, besides an allowance for travelling 
 expenses. New Brunswick is entitled to be represented by 
 twelve senators. To be eligible for appointment to the 
 senate a person must be a male of the age of thirty years, a 
 British subject, possessed of property, above all incumbrance 
 and liabilities, to the value of $4,000, and a resident of the 
 province for which he is appointed. 
 
 THE HOUSE OF COMMONS. 
 
 The House of Commons is elected by ballot every five 
 years, unless sooner dissolved. A candidate for a seat in 
 the House of Commons require no other qualification than 
 is necessary to entitle him to vote at the election ot a mem- 
 ber. New Brunswick elects sixteen members of the House 
 
217 
 
 of Commons : the City of St. John electing- one, the County 
 of St. John two, the electoral district of Victoria, which 
 includes the Counties of Victoria and Madawaska, one, 
 and each of the other counties one. This representation 
 is subject to increase after each decennial census until a 
 specified maximum is reached. A member of the House of 
 Commons receives a sessional indemnity of $1,000 for each 
 session besides an allowance for travelling expenses. 
 
 There must, by law, be a session of parliament once in 
 every year. 
 
 THE MINISTRY. 
 
 The administration of the Government of Canada is 
 vested in twelve heads of departments, with whom are 
 usually associated the Speaker of the Senate, and sometimes 
 one or more members without office. The Departmental 
 Members are known as Ministers, and include the Ministers 
 of Justice, Public Works, Finance, Inland Revenue, Rail- 
 ways and Canals, Militia, Agriculture, Customs, Marine and 
 Fisheries, the Interior, the Secretary of State, and the Post- 
 master General. 
 
218 
 
 THE PROVINCIAL GOVERNMENT. 
 
 The local affairs of the provinces, including- several 
 classes of subjects not strictly local and specified in the 
 British North America Act, are dealt with by the Provincial 
 Legislatures. 
 
 THE LIEUTENANT-GOVERNOR. 
 
 In each province there is a Lieutenant-Governor exercis- 
 ing in respect to matters within the jurisdiction of the Local 
 Legislatures the same powers as the Governor-General exer- 
 cises in respect to subjects within the jurisdiction of the 
 Canadian Parliament. The Lieutenant-Governors are ap- 
 pointed bv the Governor-General. The Lieutenant-Governor 
 of New Brunswick has a salary of $9,000 per annum paid by 
 the Dominion. 
 
 THE EXECUTIVE GOVERNMENT. 
 
 The administration of provincial affairs is vested in an 
 Executive Council of seven members. 
 
 The public lands are under the control of the Crown 
 Land Department. 
 
 THE LEGISLATURE. 
 
 The Legislature consists of a House of Assembly of 
 forty-six members. 
 
 The members of the House of Assembly hold their seats 
 for four years unless the House is sooner dissolved. There 
 must be a session of the Legislature every year. Members 
 of the Legislature receive a sessional allowance of $300 
 besides travelling expenses. 
 
 THE FRANCHISE. 
 
 Every male person, being a British subject twenty-one 
 years of age and possessed of real estate to the value of 
 $100, or personal estate to the value of $400, or both 
 together to the value of $400, or an annual income of $400 
 is entitled in New Brunswick to vote for members of the 
 Assembly. This practically gives a vote to every industri- 
 ous man. Any changes likely to be made in the qualifica- 
 tion of voters will be to reduce it, so as to extend the 
 franchise to any deserving citizens who do not edme within 
 the present qualification. 
 
219 
 
 The City of Saint John elects two members to the House 
 of Assembly; the City and County of Saint John elect four 
 members; the Counties of York, Charlotte, Northumberland 
 and Westmorland elect four each; the Counties of Kings, 
 Carleton, Gloucester, Kent, elects three; the Counties of 
 Queens, Sunbury, Restigouche, Albert, Victoria and Mada- 
 waska each elect two. 
 
 THE MUNICIPALITIES. 
 
 The rate-payers in each county of New Brunswick are by 
 law a corporation, and have full control of all local matters, 
 such as in England are vested in the Courts of Quarter 
 Session, Parochial Boards and other similar institutions. 
 Each parish in a county elects two or more councillors, and 
 the councillors so elected form the governing body of the 
 county. Every rate-payer is eligible to be elected a member 
 of the Municipal Council, and all rate-payers of the parish 
 have a voice in the election. 
 
 The Municipal Council has, as a general rule, two ses- 
 sions a year. It possesses very large local power, as it 
 imposes the direct taxation necessary for all County purposes, 
 such as the erection of Court Houses and Gaols, the payment 
 of Constables and Crown Witnesses and other incidental 
 expenses connected with the courts, the salaries of Municipal 
 Officers and such other expenditures for municipal purposes 
 as the Council may legally incur. It also directs the assess- 
 ment of the Poor-rate when the Overseers of the poor in any 
 Parish request that a rate shall be levied, and appoints all 
 Parish and County officers. 
 
 It will appear from this review that the system of govern- 
 ment in operation in New Brunswick is essentially popular, 
 and is calculated to develop in each individual a sense of 
 the privileges and responsibilities of citizenship. Every man 
 who is industrious may have, if he desires it, a voice in the 
 management of the affairs of the country, from the levying 
 of an assessment for some trifling local service up to the 
 determination of the most important questions affecting life 
 
220 
 
 and property and the welfare of the Dominion. In no part 
 of the world are the people more thoroughly imbued with the 
 principles of self-government than they are in New Bruns- 
 wick. By preserving the form of monarchy stability of 
 government is assured, but by the wide diffusion of the 
 franchise the principles of the broadest democracy have full 
 room to play. The settler from the United Kingdom will 
 find in the Province the same complete freedom of thought 
 and speech as he enjoyed at home, and perhaps in a greater 
 degree, since the traditions and family prestige, which have 
 more or less effect in a country like Great Britain in shaping 
 public opinion, have no influence in this Province. The 
 fullest citizenship is a legacy which every man in New 
 Brunswick can leave to his children. 
 
 REVENUE AND TAXATION. 
 
 The expenses of the Provincial Governments are defrayed 
 out of subsidies, so called, paid by the Dominion Govern- 
 ment as well as moneys received from local sources. The 
 Provincial Governments do not impose direct taxation. In 
 New Brunswick the principal source of revenue at present, 
 other than the Dominion subsidies, is the Crown Lands, or 
 more properly speaking, the lumber cut upon Crown Lands. 
 
 The following are the estimated receipts of the Local 
 Government for the year 1899: — 
 
 RECEIPTS. 
 
 Dominion Subsidies, $ 483,501 07 
 
 Territorial Revenue, 184,984 50 
 
 Fees Provincial Secretary's Office, 10,291 80 
 
 Lunatic Asylum 6,117 91 
 
 Agriculture 75 00 
 
 Private and Local Bills 1,206 66 ; 
 
 Taxes Incorporated Companies, 25,063 96 
 
 Succession Duties, 30,232 78 
 
 Queen's Printer, 1,157 55 
 
 Liquor Licenses 20,743 32" 
 
 Miscellaneous Receipts 864 92 
 
 $764,239 47 
 
221 
 
 EXPENDITURES. 
 
 Administration of Justice $ 15,909 11 
 
 Agriculture 34,830 72 
 
 Auditor General, 2,400 00 
 
 Boys' Industrial Home, 1,200 00 
 
 Contingencies, 16,830 63 
 
 Deaf and Dumb Institution, Fredericton. . . . 500 00 
 
 Education 202,704 61 
 
 Elections, 7,458 67 
 
 Executive Government, 30,480 00 
 
 Fisheries Protection, 1,477 50 
 
 Forests Fire Protection 1,300 00 
 
 Free Grants Act, 2,036 29 
 
 Game Protection, 7,974 65 
 
 Immigration, 1,334 75 
 
 Interest (not chargeable to Special Funds).. . 124,430 96 
 
 Legislature, 20,105 90 
 
 Lunatic Asylum Maintenance, 42,000 00 
 
 Mining, 738 79 
 
 Natural History and Historical Societies,. . . . 350 00 
 
 Public Health 1,382 23 
 
 Public Hospitals 6,000 00 
 
 Public Printing, 11,785 30 
 
 Public Works, 197,882 62 
 
 Refunds Crown Lands, 148 75 
 
 Stumpage Collection 10,750 00 
 
 Surveys and Railway Inspection 2,908 52 
 
 Sportsmen's Exhibition, Boston, 1898 655 25 
 
 Unforseen Expenses, 4,069 10 
 
 $749,644 35 
 
 MUNICIPAL TAXATION. 
 
 The rate of municipal taxation varies in different locali- 
 ties, but excepting in the cities and incorporated towns is 
 so low as to be almost nominal. In the country districts 
 the taxes are levied, first by a poll tax equal to one-sixth of 
 the whole sum to be raised, of which each male resident of 
 
222 
 
 the county over the age of twenty-one years pays an equal 
 proportion. This poll tax varies in different localties from 
 thirty cents to eighty cents, or say from from one shilling and 
 sixpence to three shillings and sixpence per head. The 
 remainder of the assessment is levied upon real and personal 
 property, this, including assessments for all purposes, except 
 the district assessments for schools, varies from one-third to 
 one-half of one per cent, on a fair valuation of property ; 
 thus the taxes on property or income to the value of $100 
 would be from thirty to fifty cents, or from one shilling 
 and sixpence to two shillings and sixpence. At the same 
 time that the county rates are collected, and included in the 
 above estimate, a sum equal to thirty cents, or one shilling 
 and sixpence, per head of the population of the county is 
 collected to form what is known as the county school fund, 
 which is disbursed on the order of the Chief Superintendent 
 of the Provincial Board of Education to the trustees of the 
 school districts, to assist in paying the salaries of teachers. 
 
 The rate of distribution is $30 per annum for each quali- 
 fied teacher in the district, and the balance according to the 
 average number of pupils attending schools in the district 
 compared with the whole average in the county. 
 
 In many Parishes there is no assessment for the support 
 of the poor, for the reason that there are no paupers to 
 support. 
 
 The whole Province is divided into school districts and 
 the rate-papers of each district meet annually and by a majority 
 vote elect trustees to manage the schools, and also at the 
 same time determine how much money shall be raised in 
 each district for school purposes, to supplement the Provin- 
 cial grant and their proportion of the County Fund. This 
 amount depends entirely upon the decision of the rate- 
 payers themselves, and is large or small as occasion demands; 
 every dollar that is thus raised is expended for the mainten- 
 ance of schools in the district, and free education is given to 
 every child whether its parents are able to pay their share 0} 
 the taxes or not. 
 
All municipal taxation, except the County School Fund 
 assessment, is directly under the control of the rate-payers,, 
 being imposed by councillors of their own choosing-. 
 
 EDUCATION. 
 
 New Brunswick maintains a University known as the 
 University of New Brunswick, the degrees granted by which 
 are recognized everywhere. It is established at Fredericton 
 and is maintained by a Provincial endowment, by revenues 
 from real estate and by fees from students. It is well pro- 
 vided with apparatus and has a good library. There is no- 
 theological chair and the instruction is non-denominationaL 
 In order to assist those who may not be able wholly to meet 
 the cost of attending the University, a number of students 
 are admitted free under certain conditions, and there is in 
 addition and excellent system of scholarship or bursaries. 
 
 The Methodist Church maintains a college at Sackville, 
 Westmorland County, where a course in arts or divinity is 
 given at the option of the student. ' 
 
 The Roman Catholic Church maintains a college at 
 Memramcook, Westmorland, where a course in arts or 
 divinity is given at the option of the student. Instruction is- 
 given at Memramcook both to French or English students. 
 
 The great educational factor in New Brunswick is the 
 Common School System, which is designed to give every 
 child in the Province a sound English education. This 
 system is based upon the principle that the property of the 
 country should pay for educating the youth of the country, 
 and, consequently, it requires every person to pay his share 
 towards the maintenance of schools. This system has been 
 in force for twenty-eight years, and has become thoroughly 
 interwoven into the institutions of the Province. 
 
 At the head of the educational system is the Provincial 
 Board of Education, consisting of the Lieutenant-Governor, 
 the Chief Superintendent of Education, the President of the 
 University and the members of the Executive Government. 
 
224 
 
 A Normal, Training and Model School is maintained at 
 Fredericton where teachers are trained in the theory and 
 practice of teaching. 
 
 Although the basis for the maintenance of schools is 
 direct taxation upon the people, the Provincial Government 
 contributes largely towards the salaries of teachers, the 
 Government allowance for this purpose being higher in New 
 Brunswick in proportion to the local contributions than in any 
 other Province of Canada. Common School Teachers receive 
 from the Provincial Treasury, as follows: — 
 
 First-class Teachers, Males. . 
 
 " " Females 
 
 Second-class " 
 
 $135 per annum. 
 100 
 
 Males 108 
 
 " " Females. ... 81 
 
 Third-class " Males 81 
 
 " " Females .... 63 
 
 Reference has already been made to the County School 
 Fund from which a sum is paid to the trustees of each dis- 
 trict to aid in the maintenance of the schools. The school 
 districts are so laid out that the children of every settler 
 shall have a school within convenient reach of their home. 
 In each district are three trustees elected as already stated, 
 by the rate-payers. One of the trustees retires annually but 
 he is eligible for re-election. The trustees decide how many 
 and what grades of schools shall be maintained during the 
 year and at the annual meeting the rate-payers determine 
 what amount to be raised by assessment upon the district, 
 shall be appropriated for school purposes. The schools are 
 subject to the supervision of Inspectors appointed by the 
 Board of Education and to the general superintendence of 
 the Board. There are special provisions in the law for cities 
 and incorporated towns. 
 
 Fifteen grammar schools, one for each county, and nearly 
 seventy superior schools, are provided for by law, for pur- 
 poses of a secondary education, and form a part ot the gen- 
 eral school system. These, and the common schools, are 
 provided for by legislative grants to be supplemented by 
 
225 
 
 .grants from the districts or towns in which they are estab- 
 lished. The teacher of a grammar school receives from the 
 government $350, and the teacher of a superior school $250, 
 conditioned upon the payment of an equal amount by the 
 local board. 
 
 In additional to the Provincial grants for common schools 
 provision is made to aid poor districts, which receive to the 
 extent of one-third more from the Provincial grants, and 
 one-third more from the county fund. This enables the 
 settlers in the newest and poorest settlements in the province 
 to maintain schools during the whole year. 
 
 There is also a legislative grant in aid of school-houses 
 for poor districts. 
 
 Under this admirable system schools have been es- 
 tablished in all parts of the province, a large and efficient 
 staff of teachers is maintained, and generally the whole 
 educational service is in a most satisfactory condition. The 
 total annual expenditure upon the common school system is 
 fully $500,000 and there are about 70,000 children upon the 
 rolls, with an average attendance during the year of about 
 58,000. This in a country largely made up of new settle- 
 ments, is a most excellent showing. The new settler in New 
 Brunswick may rest assured than he can secure for his 
 children, at a comparatively small cost, the priceless boon of 
 a good education. 
 
 MEANS OF COMMUNICATION. 
 
 HIGHWAYS. 
 
 For purposes of internal and external communication 
 New Brunswick is exceedingly well provided. The highway 
 system is excellent, and the roads are kept generally in good 
 repair with substantial bridges over the streams. Every 
 settled locality has either a great road or one or more by- 
 roads running through it, and there is not a toll-gate on 
 either turnpike or bridge from one end of the province to the 
 other. 
 
226 
 
 The roads are maintained by grants from the Legislature 
 and by what is known as statute labor. The money grants 
 amount to about $170,000 a year, the statute labor, nomi- 
 nally, to twice as much. The money grants are expended 
 in part by officers appointed by the government and in part 
 by officers appointed by the municipalities. The statute 
 labor is a tax payable in work upon the roads in the district 
 in which the individual resides. Every male inhabitant 
 over 21 years of age and under 60 must do three days' work 
 upon the roads, with an additional amount apportioned on 
 the property of the individual. An average tax would be 
 five day's work. This may be commuted by a payment of 
 50 cents in lieu of each days' work. There is also a tax of 
 half a cent an acre upon unimproved wildernes% land in 
 certain cases. This is applied to the making of roads. 
 
 WATER COMMUNICATION. 
 
 The numerous Ports of the province are constantly visited 
 by ships from all parts of the world, and St. John is, sum- 
 mer'or winter, a point for the arrival and departure of sea- 
 going vessels. A large fleet of steamers and sailing vessels 
 maintain communication between the Province and Great 
 Britain. 
 
 Regular lines of steamers ply between St. John and St. 
 Stephen, St. Andrews, Eastport, Portland, Boston, Yarmouth,. 
 Digby, and Annapolis. Fine steamers go up the St. John to 
 Fredericton, and smaller steamers run to Woodstock. 
 Other large steamers run regularly to the Grand Lake, 
 Washdemoak Lake and Belleisle Bay. There is steam com- 
 munication between St. Stephen and St. Andrews, between 
 New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island, between the 
 towns on the Lower Miramichi and between several points 
 on the Bay Chaleur. In addition to these lines of steamers a 
 large fleet of coasters attends to local business, and gives 
 cheap communication with the princial ports of the United 
 States. The competition between the carriers by land and 
 by water insures cheap transportation. 
 
227 
 
 RAILWAYS. 
 
 In proportion to its population there are more miles of 
 railway in New Brunswick than in any other state or 
 province in America. The total number of miles constructed 
 and in operation at present is about 1,500, or one mile to 
 ever 250 of the inhabitants. In Great Britain there is about 
 one mile of railway to every 3,500 of the inhabitants. 
 About $20,000,000 has been expended on railways in New 
 Brunswick. 
 
 The Intercolonial Railway was built under the special' 
 guarantee contained in the Act of Union between the Provinces 
 to give connection by rail over British territory between the 
 Maritime and Interior Provinces of Canada. The Intercolonial 
 extends from Quebec to Halifax and St. John, its total length 
 with its branches being 845 miles, of which 354 miles are in. 
 New Brunswick. It extends from St. John to the Straits- 
 of Northumberland, through the Counties of St. John, Kings 
 and Westmorland, and from the Nova Scotia boundary to 
 the Quebec boundary, the whole length of the province from 
 north to south, through the Counties of Westmorland, Kent, 
 Northumberland, Gloucester and Restigouche. From St. 
 John to Quebec, over the Intercolonial, is 779 miles, from 
 St. John to Halifax 276. It is the great channel of trade 
 between the interior and the Maritime Provinces, and in 
 New Brunswick it affords a most valuable outlet for the pro- 
 duce of all the counties through which it passes. 
 
 The New Brunswick ' Railway now the Atlantic division 
 Eastern terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway which 
 runs entirely across the continent from St. John to Vancou- 
 ver on the Pacific slope, was originally a line from Gibson, 
 opposite Fredericton, to} Edmunston, in Madavvaska County, 
 but the company owning it have absorbed several other lines 
 in western New Brunswick and built several branches, in- 
 cluding one into Maine, so that it now operates 443 miles of 
 railway. The line begins at St. John, where it connects 
 with the Intercolonial, and extends to St. Andrews, St. 
 Stephen. Fredericton, Woodstock, Grand Falls and 
 
Edmunston, in New Brunswick, and Fort Fairfield, Houlton 
 and Presque Isle, in Maine. It has a line from Woodstock 
 to Fredericton on the eastern side of the St. John. It 
 passes through St. John, Charlotte, Kings, Queens, Sunbury, 
 York, Carleton and Madawaska Counties, and will probably 
 be extended to Quebec. At Vanceboro it connects with the 
 United States railway system, and affords the great agricul- 
 tural counties of New Brunswick the best of facilities for the 
 shipment of produce to the United States markets. At 
 Gibson it connects with the Northern and Western Railway 
 to Chatham on the north shore of the Province. 
 
 The Shore Line, is a railway 80 miles long running from 
 St. John to St. Stephen byway of the coast through St. John 
 and Charlotte Counties. It passes through the thriving town 
 •of St. George; where are very extensive quarries of red 
 granite and at other points on its route the outlets of several 
 rivers apply fine motive power. 
 
 The Albert Railway begins at Salisbury Station, on the 
 Intercolonial Railway and extends to Hopewell, in Albert 
 County, a distance of 45 miles. A branch three miles long 
 connects the town of Harvey with this railway. 
 
 The Elgin Railway extends from Petitcodiac on the In- 
 tercolonial to Elgin, Albert County, a distance of 14 miles, 
 
 The Kent Northern extends from Richibucto, the shire- 
 town and principal port of Kent County, to the Intercolonial. 
 It is 27 miles long, with a branch of seven miles long to St. 
 Louis in the same county. 
 
 The Chatham Branch connects the town and port of 
 Chatham with the Intercolonial. It will form a part of the 
 Northern and Western Railway now in course of con- 
 struction. It is nine miles long, and now forms part of the 
 Canada Eastern. 
 
 The Dalhousie branch is a branch of the Intercolonial, 
 six miles long to the town of Dalhousie, the shiretown of 
 Restigouche. 
 
 The St. Martins and Upham Railway extends from 
 Hampton on the Intercolonial to the port of St. Martins on 
 
229 
 
 the Bay of Fundy in the County of St. John. It is 30 
 miles long. 
 
 The Havelock, Elgin and Petitcodiac Railway, 12 
 miles long, connects the excellent farming district in Have- 
 lock, Kings County, with the Intercolonial. 
 
 The St. John Bridge and Railway, two miles long, con- 
 necting the Intercolonial Railway with the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway was built in 1885. The Cantilever Bridge across 
 the St. John is built of steel. It consists of a central span 
 477 feet long, and two shore spans 143^ and 191 feet 
 respectively in length. It rests upon granite piers, that on 
 the east being ninety-six feet high and that on the west being 
 fifty feet high. This bridge and railway, connecting the 
 railway systems of the Province at St. John gives unbroken 
 rail connection with all points on the Continent. 
 
 The Caraquet Railway from Bathurst on the Intercolon- 
 ial to the harbor of Shippegan in Gloucester County is 
 66 miles long. 
 
 The Canada Eastern Railway runs from Gibson opposite 
 Fredericton to the Intercolonial at Chatham Junction. It 
 is no miles long. It passes across the centre of the Prov- 
 ince through the counties of York and Northumberland. 
 
 The New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island Railway 
 runs from Sackville on the Intercolonial to Cape Tormentine 
 on Northumberland Straits. It is 30 miles long and runs 
 through the finest farming lands in the Province. 
 
 The Indiantown Branch, 14 miles long from the 
 Intercolonial to Indiantown on the north branch of the 
 Miramichi. 
 
 The Central railway of New Brunswick runs from 
 Norton on the Intercolonial Railway to Chipman, at the head 
 of Grand Lake, in the County of Queens. It passes through 
 an exceptionally fine agricultural country and terminates at 
 an important lumber centre. At various points along the 
 line there are extensive coal fields. It is proposed to extend 
 this line to Fredericton through portions of the counties of 
 Queens, Sunbury and York, thereby opening up a profitable 
 market for the extensive coal deposits of Queens. 
 
230 
 
 The Tobique Valley Railway runs along the bank of the 
 Tobique River from Perth Station on the Canadian Pacific 
 Railway to Plaster Rock in Victoria County, a distance of 28 
 miles. There is much fine land on the Tobique and at Plaster 
 Rock there are extensive deposits of land plaster which are 
 being worked for export. A large pulp mill near the ter- 
 minus of the railway is projected. 
 
 The Temiscouta Railway which runs from Edmunston 
 in New Brunswick to River du Loup in the Province of 
 Quebec, connects the Canadian Pacific with the Intercolonial 
 Railway. A branch of this line runs from Edmunston to St. 
 Francis, an important lumber centre on the St. John river. 
 
 The principal railroad under construction in the Province 
 at the present time is the Restigouche and Western which 
 runs across the northern section of the Province from Camp- 
 bellton on the Intercolonial to St. Leonards on the Canadian 
 Pacific. At this point the road crosses the St. John river, 
 and at Van Buren, Maine, connects with the Bangor and 
 Aroostook, which gives access to various parts of the New 
 England States. About 20 miles of the road from Camp- 
 bellton, west, are completed, and it is expected the remaining 
 distance, something over 100 miles, will be finished within a 
 
 year. 
 
 The St. John Valley Railway between Fredericton and 
 Woodstock, on the Western bank of the St. John, is another 
 railway which opens up an important agricultural district. 
 The surveys of this line are completed and it is expected that 
 work will be commenced at an early day. 
 
 It will be seen from this summary that New Brunswick 
 is exceedingly well provided for in the matter of internal 
 communication and that the points wherein the system is at 
 all deficient are likely soon to be supplied. A settler in any 
 part of the Province will have the advantage of good high- 
 ways giving him access either to railways or water communi. 
 cation and in most cases to both. 
 
 THE MAIL AND TELEGRAPH SERVICE. 
 
 There is an efficient mail service to all parts of New 
 Brunswick. The postage on letters is two cents per half 
 ounce. 
 
231 
 
 All important towns in New Brunswick have telegraphic 
 communication. Telephone lines run through the centre of 
 the Province and to many points along the coast line. 
 
 MINERALS. 
 
 The dense forest which covers the greater part of New 
 Brunswick renders a thorough geological exploration almost 
 impossible, but enough has been ascertained to justify an 
 expectation that the mineral resources may play an important 
 part in the future of this Province. 
 
 The geological divisions of ther Province, as laid down 
 by the Geographical Survey, and shown upon the last map, 
 are as follows : 
 
 Laurentine, 
 
 " Limestone, 
 
 Pre Cambrian, 
 
 Cambro Silurian, 
 
 Dolerite, 
 
 Silurian, 
 
 Granite, 
 
 Devonian, 
 
 Lower Carboniferous Laurentine, 
 
 Lower Carboniferous, 
 
 Middle Carboniferous, 
 
 Triassic, 
 
 Trachyte-Felsite. 
 The minerals known to exist in quantities which will pay 
 for working are as follows: 
 
 The carboniferious formation of New Brunswick em- 
 braces an area of about 6,500 square miles, or parts of York, 
 Sunbury, Queens, Kings, Westmorland, Albert, Kent, 
 Northumberland and Gloucester, with several overliers 
 in other counties. The only productive mines are those at 
 Grand Lake — already referred to in the description of Queens 
 County. The seam is a surface one, 22 inches thick and is 
 known to extend over a very large area — probably at least 
 
232 
 
 600 square miles. The coal is an excellent steam coal, very 
 highly esteemed for blacksmiths' use, and is unequalled for 
 coking. A new mine has been discovered at Dunsinune^ 
 King's County, and is being' opened up. 
 
 A very remarkable mineral known as albertite, the exact 
 nature of which has been a source of dispute among scien- 
 tists, was found in very considerable quantities in Albert 
 County. It is a brittle, jet black, glossy mineral, free 
 from smut. It burns readily and melts when exposed, 
 to heat under cover. Albertite is now regarded as a pure 
 petroleum, and is of great commercial value; the probabi- 
 lities of further discoveries of paying deposits are of great 
 interest. 
 
 In Westmorland and Albert Counties petroleum springs 
 abound. A company of capitalists working under a special 
 Act is conducting exclusive explorations for oil in Westmor- 
 land County with good results. 
 
 The Albert shales yield from 35 to 50 gallons of oil fit 
 for illuminating purposes to the ton. Owing to the abund- 
 ance of petroleum these shales are not utilized, but it is not 
 unlikely that they may come tc possess a high commercial 
 value. 
 
 Antimony occurs in several places in New Brunswick, but 
 the largest deposit is in Prince William in York County, 
 where it is found in very large quantities as sulphuret of 
 antimony. The quality of the ore is good, and there is 
 more or less metallic antimony mixed with it. This is one 
 of the most important deposits of antimony known to exist 
 anywhere, paying deposits being very few in number. 
 
 Manganese is widely distributed in New Brunswick. 
 The best known deposits are at Shepody Mountain in Albert; 
 near Sussex Vale in Kings; at Quaco in St. John and 
 Tete-a-gouche in Gloucester. Mines have been opened at 
 all these points. 
 
 Numerous deposits of iron ore are known to exist in- 
 New Brunswick. The best known of these is the deposit of red 
 hematite in Jacksontown, Carleton County, commonly known 
 as the Woodstook Iron Mines. The iron produced from this- 
 
233 
 
 ore is of a very superior quality, its "resistance" being re- 
 markably high. Large quantities of this ore have been 
 mined, smelted and exported, and it has been used in the 
 manufacture of armor plates for the British Navy. The 
 iron is somewhat brittle owing to the presence of phosphor- 
 ous, but probably means could be found to remedy this 
 objection. Throughout Carleton County large deposits of 
 iron ore are to be found and they always occur in connection 
 with limestone. Being in the heart of a country where there 
 are thousands of acres of the finest hardwood forest, for the 
 manufacture of charcoal, they afford the elements of a highly 
 important industry. 
 
 Bog iron ore is very abundant in New Brunswick and is 
 found in considerable quantities near the Grand Lake Coal 
 Mines, but whether the deposit is large enough to warrant 
 the erection of smelting works is not at present known. 
 
 Without expressing any opinion as to the probable future 
 value of the New Brunswick deposits ot iron ore, it is suffi- 
 cient to say that the distribution of excellent ores is wide- 
 spread and the quantities enormous, that they are nearly 
 always found associated with limestone, and that the fuel 
 for smelting is always obtainable at a low price. 
 
 COPPER. 
 
 Copper ores are found in New Brunswick in considerable 
 quantities. Near Bathurst there is a considerable deposit 
 of the sulphuret, and in this vicinity are numerous other 
 deposits of the same ore, which it is thought might be 
 profitably worked. Along the Bay of Fundy coast there are 
 numerous deposits of copper in Albert, St. John and Char- 
 lotte Counties, which only need capital to develope them. 
 A copper mine is now operated near Dorchester, in West- 
 morland County. Copper ore is also found upon the Tobique 
 River. 
 
 Of other metals and metallic ores known to exist fn 
 greater or less quantities we have lead which in the form of 
 Galena is found in several localities. This ore occurs on the 
 shore of the Tobique River, a tew miles from St. John and 
 
234 
 
 possibly in large enough quantities to have a commercial value 
 The extent ot the deposit has not been ascertained. It 
 occurs in Charlotte County also, in the Island of Campo- 
 bello,and also near Norton, Kings County. The latter deposit 
 probably contains a good percentage of silver. 
 
 Silver is found in several localities, the principal being 
 the Elm Tree, in Gloucester County, near Bathurst, which it 
 has been thought would afford a profitable investment. 
 
 Gold is very widely diffused in New Brunswick. It may 
 be washed from the sand of many of the rivers which flow 
 from the primary formations, but as yet no paying deposit 
 has been discovered. It has been found in Albert County 
 near Elgin by Dr. Bailey; Professor Hind found it in the 
 Upsalquitch in Restigouche County; on the Nepisiquit in 
 Gloucester County; in Campbell River, Long Lake and 
 Blue Mountain Brook, in Victoria County; on the Little 
 Southwest Miramichi, in Northumberland County, and at 
 Springfield and the Dutch Valley Road, Kings County. The 
 writer has found it on Falls Brook near Grand Falls Vic- 
 toria County, on the Wapskehegan, Campbell River and 
 Serpentine in the same County; he has good evidence of its 
 having been found on the Muniac, Victoria County, and the 
 Becaguimec, Carleton County. Gold bearing quartz is said 
 to have been found on the Tobique River. The conclusion 
 of all observers relative to the existence of gold in New 
 Brunswick is that in the present state of our knowledge of 
 the country it is not judicious either to affirm or deny its 
 existence in paying quantities. Several excellent specimens 
 of gold bearing quartz have been seen by the writer and 
 their owners have affirmed that they were discovered in 
 New Brunswick. As in every case the parties were not 
 financially able to thoroughly prospect the county where 
 the precious metal was alleged to be found, the value of 
 their discovery, if discovery it was, has never been shown. 
 There are many persons who are confident that gold will be 
 found in paying quantities in New Brunswick. 
 
 Various other metalliferous ores exist in the province, 
 such as ores of zinc and tin, but only in small quantities. 
 
235 
 
 As stated at the outset of this chapter the wilderness con- 
 dition of the greater part of New Brunswick presents an 
 almost insurmountable obstacle to thorough prospecting. In 
 a country where the rocks are covered with soil or with 
 moss, it is impossible to say what mineral wealth may not 
 remain concealed. The best authorities hesitate at express- 
 ing any opinions, but the most general, such, for instance, 
 as that of the distinguished Prof. Hitchcock, who in his 
 report on the geology of Maine, alludes to the district on the 
 east of the St. John, drained by the tributaries of the 
 Tobique, as a most promising field for investigation; or of 
 Prof. Hind who, while expressing his high estimation of the 
 mines already worked, said that the development of the coal, 
 copper, iron and gold deposits were worthy of further 
 enquiry, and of Dr. Bailey who said it is impossible to speak 
 of the productive capacity of the metalliferous rocks with 
 certainty until their yielding powers had been fairly tested. 
 Yet enough is known to justify an expectation that in time 
 the mineral deposits may become a source of great wealth to 
 the Province. 
 
 In addition to the metallic ores there are other minerals 
 such as plumbago, which is found near St. John in large 
 quantities and of very good quality. It is mined on a 
 limited scale for export. Near Sussex, Kings County, there 
 are Salt Springs. In Charlotte County is a deposit of 
 Anthracite Coal of unknown extent. Gypsum is found in 
 inexhaustible quantities in Albert, Westmorland, Kings and 
 Victoria Counties. Limestone of excellent quality is abund- 
 ant. Red, Grey and Bluish Granite can be had in unlimited 
 quantities, and the Freestone Quarries are inexhaustible. 
 A mere catalogue of the minerals of economic value with the 
 localities in the Province where they occur would fill many 
 pages. In fact for a Province of its area it contains a 
 remarkable variety of mineral deposits of greater or less 
 value. Capital and energy have, in the mineral resources of 
 New Brunswick, an extensive and almost unexplored field. 
 
236 
 
 THE FOREST. 
 
 Next to agriculture the chief industry of New Brunswick 
 is the manufacture and export of lumber. No country in 
 the world is probably more densely wooded than New Bruns- 
 wick, the area of land in a wilderness state not covered with 
 forests being so small as to be merely nominal. Every acre 
 of improved land in the province, except the diked lands, 
 was at one time covered with a dense growth of trees, and 
 there are yet millions of acres upon which the forest is 
 unbroken. 
 
 The total cut of lumber, not including timber, averages 
 200,000,000 superficial feet. 
 
 The most valuable of the New Brunswick forest trees is 
 the White Pine, so-called, from the whiteness of its wood 
 when freshly cut. It is soft, light, free from knots and easily 
 wrought. Its principal use is for the interior finish of houses, 
 but it is adapted for many purposes. Red Pine is also found 
 in the Province, and is almost as much esteemed as the 
 White Pine. 
 
 There is an extensive young growth of Pine, and under a 
 judicious system of forestry, the consumption would probably 
 be exceeded by the annual growth. 
 
 Black Spruce furnishes most of the deals for export. 
 Thirty years ago it was estimated to constitute one-third of 
 the forest, but this would now be considered an over-estimate. 
 The annual cut has been very great; but the supply is yet 
 large and will probably never be exhausted, or so reduced as 
 to render the manufacture and export of Spruce anything 
 other than an important industry. The Black Spruce attains 
 a height of from sixty to eighty feet and a diameter from 
 •eighteen to thirty inches. Its chief properties are strength, 
 lightness and elasticity. It is largely used for building pur- 
 poses. For export it is sawn into deals, which are three inches 
 thick, 7, 9 and n inches wide and of various lengths. Other 
 
237 
 
 dimensions are also exported. Black Spruce makes valuable 
 "piles," and is now being extensively used in the manufac- 
 facture of wood pulp. There are now four pulp mills in New 
 Brunswick and others projected. 
 
 ■' Spruce logging," as it is called, is a great industry in 
 New Brunswick. It is prosecuted chiefly in the winter 
 season when the snow affords roads by which the logs can 
 be hauled to the banks of the streams. When the spring 
 freshets come the logs are floated or "driven" as the expres- 
 sion is, to the booms when they are put together into rafts 
 and are taken thence to the mills to be sawed. This industry 
 gives employment to a great many men and horses and fur- 
 nishes a market for large quantities of farm produce. 
 
 White Spruce is a smaller tree than the Black Spruce 
 and its wood is not so highly esteemed. The supply is large 
 and it is cut and used indiscriminately with Black Spruce. 
 
 Balsam Fir. — This is a common tree. It is quite resin- 
 ous, producing what is known in the arts as "Canada 
 Balsam," which exudes through the bark. It is lighter in 
 weight than either of the spruces and is used to some extent 
 in building. 
 
 Hemlock Spruce is larger in size than the Black Spruce. 
 It is a firm, course-grained wood, lasting remarkably well 
 under water or when kept thoroughly dry. Being very 
 tenacious of nails it is much used for boarding in buildings. 
 In the shape of logs it is much esteemed in wharf-building 
 and in mining. The Hemlock is a widely diffused wood and 
 is found in great quantities in several counties of the Pro- 
 vince. Its bark is valuable for tanning purposes. In ad- 
 dition to the bark exported and that used in the country, 
 there is an annual export of extract of the bark to the value 
 of about $200,000. The natural grain of Hemlock, when 
 varnished, is very pretty, and the wood is becoming fashion- 
 able for the interior finish of dwellings. Hemlock makes 
 excellent packing boxes. 
 
 Hacmatac or Larch is one of the commonest trees. It 
 grows tall and straight to a height of eighty feet or more. 
 The butts of the tree and one of the principal roots form a 
 
238 
 
 "knee" and are in great request in shipbuilding, forming 
 an important article of export. Tamarac timber was much 
 used in ship building, but what is known as Bay Spruce has 
 now largely taken its place, most of the large tamarac hav- 
 ing been cut. There is yet much of smaller growth in the 
 country, and, as it is a rapidly growing wood, it might be 
 planted with advantage. 
 
 Cedar is one of the most widely distributed and valuable 
 of New Brunswick woods. It grows in wet ground and 
 river valleys; sometimes in a swamp of 50 or 100 acres in 
 extent will consist of cedar trees standing so close together 
 that their foliage is scarcely penetrable by the sunlight. It 
 grows to a height of forty feet and large specimens are two 
 feet or more in diameter, but the majority of trees do not 
 exceed a diameter of twenty inches, if measured a few feet 
 from the ground. The wood of the cedar is light, soft, fine 
 grained and easily wrought. It has a pleasing, aromatic 
 odor, which it does not lose if kept dry, and hence is much 
 esteemed as a material for closets. It is practically indes- 
 tructible by the weather, and will stand a succession of 
 moisture and dryness for many years. Made into shingles 
 it will last upon the roofs of buildings for upwards of thirty 
 years, and its durability, when used as fencing, is even greater. 
 Its lightness causes it to be esteemed by boat-builders. It 
 is well adapted for household utensils as it becomes whiter 
 and smoother by use. On nearly every farm sufficient cedar 
 will be found to provide all requisite fencing, and this is a 
 very important consideration to the settler. The principal 
 use to which cedar is put, except for fencing, is for railway 
 ties or "sleepers," bridge piers, telegraph poles and shingles. 
 The export of this wood is large and is chiefly to the United 
 States. Shingles are of two kinds, shaved and sawed, the 
 former are made by hand, the latter by machinery. 
 
 Cedar makes a handsome hedge and is of rapid growth. 
 This is not the true cedar; it is the Thuja Occidentalis of 
 Linneus, and is also called the Arbor Vita?. 
 
 Black and Yellow Birch may be considered together as 
 they are exported indiscriminately under the name of Birch. 
 
239 
 
 The grain of Black Birch is very fine, close and pretty; it 
 takes a bright polish and is used to some extent in furniture 
 and the interior finish of houses. It is practically indes- 
 tructible under water, and therefore is admirably adapted for 
 piles and wharves. These birches grow upon the best of 
 soils and the supply in the Province is yet very great, 
 although, in many districts, the larger trees, suitable for 
 heavy timber, have been cut. The birch makes excellent 
 fuel. 
 
 White Birch and Paper or Canoe Birch, though sometimes 
 confounded are really different varieties. Owing to the vast 
 supply of superior wood these birches are not much used 
 except for the manufacture of show cases, spools, bobbins, 
 brush backs, &c. It is from the bark of the Paper Birch 
 that Indians make their canoes. ' 
 
 Two varieties of Beech grow in New Brunswick, the red 
 and the white. The Red Beech is a valuable wood. It is 
 imperishable when kept perfectly dry or constantly wet. 
 Being a hard wood and susceptible of a high polish it makes 
 excellent tool handles, shoe lasts, mallets and the like. For 
 agricultural implements or any purpose where strength and 
 durability are required, Red Beech is admirably adapted. It 
 makes excellent flooring and is annually becoming more popu- 
 lar for this purpose. Red Beech forms a considerable part of 
 large forests and is becoming an important article of export. 
 This tree produces very palatable nuts every second year. 
 
 One of the most useful, beautiful and common trees in 
 New Brunswick is the Maple. There are several varieties 
 of Maple, but in general they may be described as lofty, 
 well shaped trees, with beautiful foliage; they are of quick 
 growth and as they bear transplanting very well are greatly 
 esteemed as shade trees, especially as they do not injure the 
 grass growing beneath them. Their presence in the forest 
 indicates the best quality of soil. 
 
 Rock Maple is the king of the deciduous trees of North 
 American forests; sometimes it grows nearly one hundred 
 feet in height with corresponding proportions. In summer 
 when clothed in green it is beautiful to look upon, and in 
 
240 
 
 autumn when its leaves change to blood-red, golden-yellow, 
 brown and many other colors its appearance is magnificent. 
 The wood of the Rock Maple is white when freshly cut, but 
 becomes slightly reddish with exposure. The grain is fine, 
 close, silky and very pretty, especially in the accidental, 
 though common varieties, known as Curled Maple or Bird's 
 Eye Maple. Maple is adapted for all the purposes that Beech 
 is, but the more beautifully grained wood is much sought 
 after by cabinet-makers and others desiring a light wood of 
 attractive appearance for finishing purposes. The Bird's 
 Eye Maple makes excellent violin backs. The ordinary Maple 
 is now sawn into various dimensions for builders' uses, and 
 its popularity is on the increase. As a fuel Rock Maple is 
 superior to all other woods; it makes the best charcoal, and 
 its ashes are rich in alkali. 
 
 The Rock Maple is also known as the "Sugar" Maple, 
 because of the richness of its sap in the saccharine principle. 
 Maple Sugar is a regular article of commerce, the quantity 
 produced in New Brunswick annually being about half a 
 million pounds. It is made from the sap of the Maple which 
 begins to flow in the month of March. Syrup made from the 
 sap is preferred to the finest grade of West India molasses. 
 
 There are two species of Elm in New Brunswick, the 
 white and the red. Both are beautiful shade trees. The 
 White Elm often grows to the height of one hundred feet, 
 its branches are long and pendulous, its foliage rich and 
 pleasing in shape. It grows wild on the low, deep soiled 
 intervals, and the quantity available for commercial uses is 
 limited. The wood is strong, tenacious and elastic, does 
 not split easily and bears the driving of bolts and nails better 
 than any other wood. It is durable if kept either constantly 
 wet or constantly dry, but decays rapidly when these con- 
 ditions alternate. It is used in making ships' blocks, and 
 for other purposes in which wood of its peculiar properties 
 is required. 
 
 The Red Elm does not grow to as great a size as the 
 White Elm. Its wood possesses the same properties as 
 
241 
 
 that of the White Elm but is somewhat coarser and more 
 durable. Its home is on dry elevated situations. 
 
 Ash is found in New Brunswick in several varieties, the 
 white, black and yellow chiefly, the wood of each differing 
 according to the soil and situation where it is grown. The 
 White Ash is a common tree growing to the height of sixty 
 feet with a diameter of eighteen inches or more Its growth is 
 rapid and its foliage beautiful, the trunk is perfectly straight, 
 the wood strong, tough and elastic. Black Ash is a smaller 
 tree than White Ash and its wood is somewhat coarser. It 
 is a fashionable wood for bedroom furniture, its texture being 
 very pleasing and is used for a variety of purposes in first- 
 class buildings. Being already a valuable article of com- 
 merce, its supply will probably not long keep pace with the 
 demand; its cultivation will likely be profitable. It is used 
 by the Indians in the manufacture of baskets, for which it is 
 admirably adapted. The Yellow Ash is similar to the Black 
 Ash but is lighter in color. The Red Ash is somewhat 
 similar to the White Ash. 
 
 Oak is found in New Brunswick in three varieties, the 
 white, the red and the grey. The wood of the latter is very 
 durable. The supply is limited. 
 
 Cherry is found in abundance. The fruit is small and 
 slightly bitter. None of the varieties attain sufficient size to 
 possess much commercial value. 
 
 Poplar occurs in two varieties, the Aspen and the Balsam 
 Poplar, or "Balm of Gilead." Poplar wood is very white 
 and of light weight. It becomes hard and tough when dry 
 and takes a high polish. Its principal commercial use at 
 present is in the manufacture of what is known as Excelsior,. 
 an article used for mattress making, upholstering and pack- 
 ing purposes, the wood for these purposes being cut into 
 long shreds. The demand is large and increasing. The 
 lightness, whiteness and durability of Poplar are causing it 
 to become very much esteemed for many purposes. It makes 
 an excellent paper pulp. 
 
 Basswood is found in considerable quantities. Its 
 
242 
 
 properties are somewhat similar to those of Poplar. The 
 natural color of the wood is pale yellow. 
 
 Hornbeam and Ironbeam are tough, heavy woods 
 capable of sustaining great weight. These trees do not 
 attain a large size. 
 
 THE FISHERIES. 
 
 The fisheries ot New Brunswick are among the most im- 
 portant of its industries. They include not only exhaustless 
 supply to be drawn from the Bay of Fundy, Bay Chaleur and 
 the Gulf of St. Lawrence, but the yield of so many streams 
 and lakes that a mere catalogue of the names would be 
 wearisome. The enormous amount of a most excellent 
 article of food available from this source and its comparative 
 cheapness is not the least advantage which the population of 
 New Brunswick enjoy, and in a commercial point of view the 
 fisheries are of incalculable value. The deep sea fisheries 
 furnish employment to a large number of people, and the 
 inland fisheries, besides being in some degree a source of 
 food to the people, attract hundreds of sportsmen annually 
 to the Province, and the number is rapidly increasing. 
 
 The annual catch of fish is worth, according to the 
 average price at which the fish exported are valued, over 
 $2,300,000. 
 
 The export of Canned Lobster has been prosecuted 
 largely in some years, and has assumed large proportions. 
 The market is in Great Britain, the United States, Australia, 
 France and elsewhere. 
 
 The export of fresh fish, principally Salmon, Smelt and 
 Bass to the United States, has already reached large dimen- 
 sions, and is growing every year. The fish are frozen before 
 shipment or are shipped fresh on ice. They are taken on 
 the North Shore rivers and are sent to their destination by 
 rail. 
 
 The principal fish taken in the Bay of Fundy are the 
 Cod, Pollock, Hake, Haddock, Herring, Shad and Mackerel. 
 
243 
 
 The fishing grounds extend down to the entrance of the 
 Bay and around the islands of Grand Manan, Campobello 
 and the West Isles and into the estuaries of the principal 
 rivers. The Cod of the Bay of Fundy are a large fish, quite 
 equal to any taken in American waters. The Pollock, the 
 Hake and the Haddock are also very abundant. The Had- 
 dock is eaten fresh but is generally preferred when slightly 
 salted and smoked; it is then known in commerce as "Finnan 
 Haddy."' The Bay Herrings are of medium size but of good 
 flavor. The Bay of Fundy Mackerel are small, but very much 
 esteemed. The Halibut is a large fish of the Flounder species. 
 Its flesh is white and firm, and though somewhat dry is highly 
 thought of when fresh. When slightly salted and smoked 
 it is very palatable. The Bay Shad is perhaps the most de- 
 licious fish produced in New Brunswick waters. The average 
 weight is about three pounds. The Gaspereau or Alewive 
 is a small species of Shad, caught in large quantities. The 
 Bay of Fundy fisheries are prosecuted at all seasons of the 
 year. 
 
 The fisheries in the Gulf of St. Lawrence can only be 
 prosecuted from April until November, both inclusive, owing 
 to the presence of ice. The principal catch is of the Cod. 
 The Gulf Cod is somewhat smaller than the other varieties 
 taken on the North American coast, but is of excellent 
 quality. Hake and Haddock abound in the Gulf. Herrings 
 are found in countless shoals, and in the fall they are very 
 fat and of excellent flavor. This branch of fishing is capable 
 of indefinite expansion, and as the quality of the "fall 
 herrings" is very high, its extensive prosecution would pro- 
 bably be found profitable. Mackerel, Gaspereaux and 
 Stripped Bass are abundant, and the quantities of smelts 
 taken are prodigious. There is, apparently, no limit to the 
 supply. 
 
 Of shell-fish there are found on the Gulf Coast, Oysters 
 and Lobsters of excellent quality. Other fish are taken on 
 the North Shore, but those above named are the principal, 
 except the Salmon. 
 
244 
 
 Salmon of the finest description are taken in the estuaries 
 of all the principal rivers flowing' into the Gulf and Bay 
 Chaleur. The fish are large and of admirable flavor, com- 
 manding a ready sale. They are exported fresh, frozen, 
 smoked, salted, spiced and pickled, and the demand seems 
 to keep pace with the supply. On the two principal rivers, 
 the Miramichi and the Restigouche, hatcheries for the pro- 
 pogation of fish are maintained by the Dominion Govern- 
 ment. 
 
 INLAND FISHERIES. 
 
 While, as has been already mentioned, the Inland Fish- 
 eries of New Brunswick are of some value to settlers as a 
 food supply, their great importance is due to the fact that 
 they attract to the country many sportsmen who expend 
 large sums of money on their excursions. The Salmon 
 fishing on the Restigouche has a reputation which is almost 
 world wide, and every year distinguished visitors from Great 
 Britain and the United States may be found spending a holi- 
 day in the glorious sport afforded by this noble river. Other 
 streams in the Province are almost equally good, but none 
 are quite as celebrated. On the tidal portions of the streams 
 the Dominion Government grants fishing leases. On the non- 
 tidal portions the right to lease is vested in the Local Gov- 
 ernment as riparian proprietor in the case of ungranted lands 
 and in the riparian proprietors in the case of granted lands. 
 
 The right of surface fly fishing on waters under control 
 of the Provincial Government is granted to the highest 
 bidder at a public sale, whereof due notice is given. Leases 
 will not be granted for a longer term than five years. The 
 leasee is bound to keep at least one efficient guardian of the 
 fishery within the bounds of his lease. Short term leases 
 may be obtained on application to the Surveyor-General. 
 
 THE JUDICIARY OF NEW BRUNSWICK. 
 
 Tha Judiciary of New Brunswick is modelled after that 
 of England with such changes as are necessary to adapt it to 
 
245 
 
 the requirements of a new country or as experience has 
 shown to be desirable. 
 
 The Supreme Court has jurisdiction over all causes civil 
 and criminal, and is the Court of Appeal from inferior 
 tribunals. From its decision an appeal lies to the Supreme 
 Court of Canada and to the Judicial Committee of the Privy 
 Council sitting at Westminster. The Supreme Court has 
 jurisdiction both at Law and Equity. It consists of a Chief 
 Justice and five puisne judges, one of the latter being called 
 the Judge in Equity and being specially charged with the 
 Equity business. One or more Courts of Nisi Prius are 
 held every year in each county and the Court sits en banc 
 four times a year. The salaries and travelling expenses of 
 the judges are paid by the Dominion Government with 
 which is also the right of appointment. 
 
 The County Courts have jurisdiction in actions of contract 
 to $400, in actions of tort to $200, and in criminal matters 
 they have concurrent jurisdiction with the Supreme Court, 
 except in capital offences. The Province is divided into six 
 districts with a judge for each district. Two or more sit- 
 tings of the County Court are held in each county every 
 year. These judges are appointed and paid by the Dominion 
 Government. 
 
 In all the cities and towns are local courts of limited juris- 
 diction, and in each parish are one or more commissioners 
 having jurisdiction in contract cases to $80 and in tort to 
 $32. Justices of the Peace have jurisdiction in contract to 
 $20, in tort to $8, and in respect to criminal offences they 
 have limited powers. 
 
 Trial by jury is provided for in all cases, but under certain 
 circumstances, if the parties so desire, the jury may be dis- 
 pensed with. 
 
 Admission as an Attorney of the Supreme Court is allow- 
 ed after four years study with a barrister and after the appli- 
 cant has passed an examination. Students holding a degree 
 from a recognized college or university are admitted after 
 three years study. Attorneys are called to the bar after one 
 year's practice. 
 
246 
 
 MILITARY ORGANIZATION. 
 
 The only military organization is the Militia, and com- 
 pulsory service is a thing unknown. Volunteer Companies of 
 Militia are enrolled and are expected to preform certain 
 requirements as to drill. The number of these companies 
 is limited. A Military School is maintained at Fredericton. 
 by the Dominion Government. Members of the School corps 
 enlist for three years' service. 
 
 THE NATIONALITY OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 About one-sixth of the population of New Brunswick is 
 of French extraction. They reside principally in Westmor- 
 land, Kent, Gloucester and Madawaska Counties; the popu- 
 lation of the latter being nearly all French. The majority 
 of the French people speak English, although among them- 
 selves they use French exclusively. 
 
 The Settlement of New Denmark consists exclusively of 
 Danes, who number about 900. 
 
 There are several Indian villages, but the number of 
 aboriginal inhabitants remaining in the country is compara- 
 tively small. They are an inoffensive race and have assumed 
 the habits of their white neighbors. They represent three 
 tribes, the Milicete, Micmac and Passamaquoddy. 
 
 In the centres of population there is a small proportion 
 of people of African descent, and also a few representatives 
 of other nationalities, but practically speaking, all the people 
 of New Brunswick, except the French, are of English, 
 Scotch or Irish descent. 
 
 THE RELIGION OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 There is no State Church in New Brunswick, all denomi- 
 nations being equal before the law. 
 
 The Anglican church has a Bishop, whose See is Fred- 
 ericton. Its governing bodies are the Diocesan Church 
 Society and the Diocesan Synod. 
 
 The Baptist church (Calvinist) are a large body. For 
 purposes of the local church government this denomina- 
 tion divides the Province into three districts, governed 
 
247 
 
 respectively by the Eastern, Western and Southern 
 Associations. 
 
 The Roman Catholics divide the Province into Diocese 
 of St. John and the Diocese of Chatham. They have two 
 Bishops. They maintain besides numerous church and 
 eleemosynary societies and Memramcook College, already 
 referred to, a hospital known as the Hotel Dieu, at Chatham, 
 and convents and academies at St. Basil, Madawaska 
 County; at Newcastle, Northumberland County, at Bathurst, 
 Gloucester County; at St. Louis, Kent County; at Caraquet, 
 Gloucester, and at St. John. 
 
 The Methodists are well organized. The governing 
 body of this church is the Conference of New Brunswick 
 and Prince Edward Island, subject to the supervision of the 
 General Conference of Canada. 
 
 The Free Baptists have forty-three Clergymen. Their 
 governing body is a General Conference. In educational 
 matters they co-operate with the Calvinist Baptists. 
 
 The Presbyterians have Church organization in many 
 sections of the Province. They divide the Province for the 
 purpose of government into the Presbytery of St. John and 
 the Presbytery of Miramichi. 
 
 There are several Congregational Churches in the- 
 Province. 
 
 BEGINNING A FARM. 
 
 When a settler goes upon a new farm he will, in most 
 cases, find the forest upon it unbroken. In rare instances 
 there may be a small clearing where a logging camp has 
 been, but in the great majority of cases he will find the great 
 hardwood trees standing on all parts of his lot, interspersed 
 more or less thickly with Spruce, Fir and, in most places, 
 Cedar. He can hire men who will cut down as much of 
 this forest as he wishes, burn off the cut trees, and prepare 
 the land for a crop for $12 per acre. Of course if he does 
 part of the work himself the cost will be less. The trees 
 are cut at a convenient height above the ground, the branches 
 trimmed off, and the trunks cut up so that they will be 
 
248 
 
 readily handled after the first "burn in localities where 
 there is a demand for "cordwood" foi .uel, the trunks and 
 larger limbs may be cut up for this purpose. In the fall or 
 spring, as the case may be, when the cut trees have become 
 sufficiently dry and the weather is favorable, fires are set in 
 the bush heaps and the ' 'fallow, "as it is called, is burned over. 
 If the "burn" is a good one, nothing will be left but the 
 stumps and larger portions of the trees. The latter are 
 rolled together, piled up and burned, and the ashes scattered. 
 The stumps are not removed. The land is now ready for a 
 crop, and its yield is usually surprising. Most beginners 
 will sow wheat or oats over the greater part of their clearing 
 and seed down to grass, and allow the field to remain in 
 grass until the stumps become easy to remove, when it may 
 be plowed up, and its fertility will be found fully equal to 
 what it was when the land was first cleared. The clearings 
 may be added to every year. 
 
 In the matter of buildings the settler will consult his 
 pocket and his taste. Most of the early settlers were com- 
 pelled to build log houses, and many yet build them from 
 choice. They are made by laying the logs upon each other, 
 notched so as to fit closely, the interstices being filled with 
 moss and clay or mortar. The interior may be finished by 
 simply planing the logs smooth, or may be lathed and plas- 
 tered if desired. Such houses are warm and cheap, and by 
 no means unsightly. Log barns may also be erected. Of 
 late years, or where roads are made in advance of settle- 
 ments, so that manufactured lumber can be got to the new 
 farms, many settlets build themselves snug framed cottages 
 and framed barns. This is a matter, which every settler, 
 going upon a farm, will decide for himself after he has come 
 to the country. In any case he can provide himself with 
 comfortable buildings at a very reasonable price. 
 
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