Cornell University Library The original of tliis book is in tine Cornell University Library. There are no known copyright restrictions in the United States on the use of the text. http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924073879375 riY MOTHER'S COOK BOOK A SERIES OP Practical Lessons IN The Art of Cooking. BY MATILDA LEES DODS, 01 tlie South fCcnsInitoa School ol Cookery. EDITED BY HENRIETTA DE CONDB SHERMAN. CHICAGO THOMPSON & THOMAS COPyXIGHT, 1908, BY G. P. PUTNAM'S SoNSi NBW YORK. COFVKIGHT, 1901, BY THOMPSON 8c THOKAS, CHICAGO. PREFACE Thi question that will very naturally be asked in con- nection with our volume is : " Why is such ^ work re- quired at all ?" Is there not already an abundance of books devoted to and exhausting the various branches of the subject, from the monograph which di^usses all the points and possibilities of cold mutton to the " complete housewife," whose " common sense " suggestions and elaborate in- structions rahge over all possible topics, from the currying of a lobster to the management of a husband ? To such a criticism we should reply that cookery is now accepted as both a science and an art. As a science it is of course subject to all the laws of natural develop- ment, while as an art it can also lay claim to the privi- leges of continued inspiration, and the disciples of to-day need not admit that all wisdom has died with the prophets who have taught in the past.. In sober earnest, there has been during the past few years a much more general re- cognition of the fact that the work of cooking, upon which depends so much of the comfort, and in fact the happi- ness of existence, cannot be successfully carried on at hap-hazard or in a " hit or miss " fashion. The interests imperilled are too serious and the results of failures too grave. It requires and demands careful, persistent study, and should utilize also all possible ingenuity and creative power that can be pressed into service. Originality of conception, thoroughness of knowledge, jhr PREFACE. 'and precision of method may be said to be as important, for the practice of cookery as for the practice of medicine, and it is all evident that the niore fully these are called into play for the former, the greater the prospect of get- ting rid altogether of the latter. The due recognition, during the past decade of the . I proper position of this branch of human knowledge has led to the establishment of institutions planned to give instruction in the principles of cooking, and to further its higher development as a fine art; and. during the next few years we hope to see the number of such institutions largely increased. I was so fortunate a^ to obtain one of the earliest first- ), class diplomas issued by the South Kensington School of ' Gookery, B.-a.& with this in my possession,, and a definite purpose before ine of doing what was iii my power to fur- ther the knowledge of my fellow-women, and the comfort of ray fellow-men, I could no longer feel that my life was aimless, even though my work should have no higher " range " than liiat of the kitchen. It is pleasant to be able to state, as well for the credit of the school whose teachings I have carried out, as for my own satisfaction, that such instruction as I have at- tempted to give in Great Britain and this country, through lessons and practical examples with demonstraticn before classes, has been most cordially and favorably received in all quarters, and hks brought me very warm acknowledg- ments for practical services rendered. In the course of my work with classes, I have found that there was quite a general demand for a book that should embody with somewhat more comprehensiveness arid completeness of detail than was possible in any single I^REPACM. V course of lectures, the whole range of instruction, and should give the particular application of the general prin- ciples ; a book that should be not a mere stereotyped schedule of dinners, suppers and breakfasts, nor a de- pressing list of semi-intelligible recipes, but one that should present a comprehensive insight into the general rules for the intelligent preparation of food, and at the same time clearly describe the several means and pro- cesses of arriving at desired results. In response to such demand this volume has been prepared. Nothing has been included in it, of which the practical worth has not been thoroiighly tested, and it is believed that the examples have been so selected, that, although of necessity limited in number, they, demonstrate the whole theory and practice of the culinary art, and W^i make the reader familiar with the most approved methods and tine latest attainments therein. The purpose of our work is now set forth, although if the whole story were told it might be proper to show how the original cook-book grew from an onion, the veritable. ", Piece of chalot Whicb she never forgot." But this touches the romance of the whole matter, without which nothing, however prosaic, is complete. With such prose and such suggestions of romance as belong to my subject, these pages are now submitted to the interpreta- tion of those to whom my book is most aflFectionately dedi- cated — the world-wide sisterhood oi Housewives and their Husbands, trusting that through its instrumentality all may be convinced that while Heaven still furnishes the food, the promethean fire of knowledge has redeemed th? cooka TABLE OF CONTENTS. Sovn.... ; ..j I PURlis...' ..'. 12 SHEU^nSR I6 Fish ., 26 Meats, Roast.. 34. Bon.ED ,.i 39 Made Dishxs.' ...» 44 Cold Dishbs 56 Broiled and Fried 65 Game 70 Entremets 77 Vegetables . . . . : , .* , 95 r Salads .' 117 Croquettes '. 125 Fritters 130 SouFFxfs. 134 Puddings -. 142 Sauces 163 Savory ; 1^3 ' Sweet.... 166 ' Ices, Creams and Jellies. .Nf 169 Ices ».. 169 Creams 173 Jellies 178 PiKS AND Pastries.... 182 Pastries '. •••••. •• i^ Pies ....^185 Bread and Cake. '.".' 190 Bread > 190' Cake. ■• 197 Breakfast DIshes 904 Teas, Coffies and Chocolates 219 Miscellaneous ..; 221 THE ART OF COOKING. SOUPS. Brown Stock. — For this stock there will be required material in the following quantities : * Four pounds of the shin of beei^ four young carrots, four Bermuda onions, one small turnip, one-half head of celery, one-half tablespoonful of salt, one-half teaspoon- ful of white pepper-corns, one-half teaspoonful of black peppercorns. First, cutting all of the meat from the bone, remove the marrow, and break up the bone with a hammer. Put the meat and bone together in a large saucepan and pour over these five pints of cold water, placing the saucepan over the fire. Bring the water now quickly to the boiling point and skim off, when boiling, all of the scum that arises to the surface. Throw into the saucepan then the salt, which will bring any remaining albumen or scum to the top, when, skimming once more, add to the contents of the pan the carrot, turnip and celery all cut into very small' pieces. Before adding the onion blanch it with boiling water, to draw from it the greenness which produces in- digfestion, having done which, put it together with the pepper-corns into the saucepan and allow all again to boil. When this is done, draw the saucepan to the side of tlie fire, cover it closely, and allow its contents to simmer i sot/PS. slowly for five hours, at the end of which time the stock should be strained through a clean towel to remove the meat and vegetables, the juices and flavor of which have been extracted, and put away to cool for future use. Note. — ^Water boils at a temperature of 212 deg., and to boil meat in it for eating or to prepare stock, the water having been first brought to the boiling poiiit should be permitted to fall to a tempera- ture of 160 deg. to prevent the meat hardening. A second stock can be made from the meat and bones used for the iirst, by covering them again with cold water, adding some fresh vegetables, and bringing all to the boiling point ; allowing the pre- paration to simmer slowly thereafter for four hours. Clear Soup. — Material and quantities required: One quart of brown stock, the whites and shells of two eggs and as much salt and pepper as can be held between the thumb and finger. The stock iilust have been allowed to become quite cold, when it will have thickened, and set. Then, dipipihg the corner of a/towel in boiling water, wash the grease from the top. , . Now put the stock, into a saucepan and allow it to melt—a copper saucepan is preferable. Put the whites and shells of the two eggs into a small bowl, 'add to them one-half a gill of cold water and the salt and pepper. When the stock has melted add the eggs so prepared, and with two forkswhisk the whole briskly until it boils. The instant the soup boils cover the saucepan closely and draw it aside from the fire, and allow it to simmer for ten minutes. Then strain through a clean towel, taking care not to break the crust which the eggs have formed at the top in process of clearing, and it is ready to serve. KIDNEY SOUP. 3 Note.— Maccaroni and Vennicelli Soap are made from this Clear Soap by simply boiling the maccaioni and vermicelli in water, put on cold, then patting them into the tareen and pouring the hot stock over. Kidney Soup. — Quantities and materials are to be used as follows : Two ox kidneys, two quarts of second stock, two tablespoonfuls of Harvey's Sauce, two tabl^spoonfuls mushroom catsup, one ounce of flour of rice, two ounces of butter, one grain of cayenne pepper and a little of black pepper and table salt. In preparing this soup the kidneys have first to be well washed in cold water, then after being thoroughly dried in a towel, they must be cut into thin slices. The butter i^ next to be put into a dry saucepan and heated until smoke begins to arise therefrom, the pieqes of kid- ney added and browned therein ; the flour of rice must then be put into a basin and be made smooth with a little of the stock, when the Harvey sauce is to be added, also the pepper, salt, cayenne and catsup, after which the Test of the stock is thrown into the basin, stirred iintil well mixed, and then the whole mixture poured over the kidney as prepared and placed in the saucepan. Now, putting the saucepan over the fire, stir the con- tents until boiling to prevent the flour lumping, and skim carefully meantime. After this boiling point is reached the saucepan must be drawn aside from the fire, tightly covered and allowed to simmer for two hours, when it is done. ~~~^ Note. — In browning meats of any kind the stock should be poured over them cold, that the brown which has been obtained may not be washed away in the process. Kidney especially should be cooked over a slow fire to prevent them hardening. 4 SOUPS. Mock Turtle Soup. — The ingredients for this soup must be provided in the following quantities : One calf's head, five ounces of flour, five ounces of butter, one ounce of mixed spice, two Bermuda onions, two wine-glassfuls of sherry, five quarts of cold water, one lemon, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, one- half tablespoonful of salt and two teaspoonfuls of pepper. The method of preparation is : First soak the calf's- head in cold water for an hour for the purpose of cleans- ing it of blood or such other remaining impurities as there may be, then after drying the same in, a clean towel, put it into''a large sauce-pan and pour thereon the five quarts of cold water. The sauce-pan is then placed dver a quick fire, and being carefully cleared of scum as it boils, which it should do speedily, the onions, mixed spices, pepper and salt must be thrown in at once. Hav- ing reached the boiling point and the flavoring materials been added, the whole should now be permitted to boil slowly until the meat will readily separate from the bones — a period Qf from two to five hours to be detenr^ined by the age of the calf— when the tongue is to be removed and skinnedi also the meat taken from the cheeks and both cut into small pieces to be presently used. The bones and head remaining in the saucepan, must now be permitted to boil four hours, at the end of which the liquor should be drawn off and strained, and the small pieces of mea!t remaining in tlje saucepan, must be col- lected, cut £ndy, seasoned with pepper and salt, t6 which add a little flour, and then combined with the two fresh eggs to give consistency to the mixture, rolled into small balls, and placed in the oven for five minutes in order that they may keep shape by being hardened. BROWN SOUP. 5 Now taking a clean saucepan let the butter be melted and the remainder of the flour stirred into it, when the liquor should be added and the whole stirred until it boils. The pieces of meat from the cheek and tongue pre- viously prepared must now be thrown in; and' all allowed to boil for ten minutes. The lemon's, thinly sliced, are to be placed in the tureen, together with the sherry and the balls and the catsup, over which the soup is to be poured, when it is ready for serving. Note. — If the soup is not sufficiently dark in color a little cara- mel may be added, the instructions for the preparation of which are given on page — '■ , I Brown Soup. — Materials and quantities: Three pounds of shin of beef, two and one half quarts of cold water, one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour of rice, one dessert spoonful of mushroom catsup, one dessert-spoonful Harvey's sauce, one teaspoonful of whole black pepper, one teaspoonful of whole white pep- per, one dozen cloves, one-half tablespoonful of salt, six drops of caramel, one carrot, one turnip, one-half head 6f celery and one onion. In preparing this soup the first thing to be done is the cutting of the meat from the bone, and the remov- ing of the marrow. Then the marrow and tjie butter must be heated together in a large saucepan, and when the smoke arises from theni^ the meat and bone must be put into the same and browned, and the vegetables cut into very small pieces and browned also. To this add the water in its given quantity and allow, the whole to come quickly to the boiling point, skimming carefully 6 SOUPS. meantime. The salt, pepper and cloves, should now be thrown m and the whole allowed to boil slowly, for four hours when the liquor should Ije strained and returned to the saucepan. The flour of rice should now be put into a bowl and made smooth with the Harvey's sauce and catsup, then added to the strained liquor in the saucepan, and boiled together with it for ten minutes to prevent the flour of rice tasting raw. Just before serving add the caramel which does not require to be cooked, but is used for the purpose of giving the soup the proper color. G-iblet Soup. — The quantities and ingredients re- quired are : Two sets of giblets, three quarts of stock, two ounces of butter, one gill of slierry, two ounces of flour, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one sprig of parsley, two bay leaves, one sprig of thyme. One grain of cayenne pepper, one-half a saltspoonful of salt and an equal quan- tity of pepper. The manner of making the soup is as follows : The giblets must be scalded and picked entirely clean of skin, and then cut into small pieces equal in size. When this is done, next melt the butter and brown the giblets to a pale brown in it. Then a,dd to them the sherry and one gill of the stock, after which let it cook slowly until the liquor is reduced to one-half the quantity, when the remainder of the stock must be added, also the parsley, thyme and bay leaves, and let all cook slowly together until the giblets are tender, the time of which depends upon whether' the giblets are of chicken or fowrL When the giblets are tender they should be removed and the liquor strained, which is to be thickened with a HOTCH-POTCH. j little flour, the flour first being made smooth with a little cold water, and then the whole is to be boiled one hour, after which the giblets must be returned to the liquor, the lemon juice, cayenne, pepper and salt also added, and all permitted to boil for five minutes. When it is done it should be dished very hot. Hotch-potch. — The necessaries and measures for this soup are: A neck of mutton, six lamb chops, two quarts of cold water, six young carrots, four young tur- nips, one head of lettuce, one tablespoonf ul of parsley, one pint of green peas, one ypung cauliflower, one half tablespoonful of salt, one small teaspoonful of pepper. The neck of mutton must first be washed thoroughly in cold water. It then should be put into the saucepan and covered with two quarts^ of cold water, placed over the fire, and when the water boils, skim it, and add the salt, allowing it to boil for two hours thereafter. At the end of this time it must be strained, the lamb-chop's, first cut in two, and then added, the turnips quartered and added and five of the carrots cut into thin slices and also added, and all allowed to boil together for three quarters of an hour. After this put in the lettuce and the parsley, which have been chopped fine meantime, the peas and the cauliflower, the flower of which only is used, the pep- per and the remaining carrot which must be grated, and let all boil slowly for twenty minutes. Note.— The heart of a joang cabbage may be added to tid* Map by penoiM teliihing the flavor of thia vegetable. SOUPS. SOUPS.— SECOND DIVISION. White Stock. — For this stock there, will be re- quired: one fowl, two pounds of veal, three quarts of cold water, one Bermuda onion, two leeks, one head of celery, two cloves, one-half tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of whole white pepper. To prepare this Stock, the vCal and the fowl must first be put into alarg^ saucepan and covered with the water, when it should be brought quickly to the boiling point that the scum may arise at once and be removed. When this is done the salt must be thrown in, after which it must be skimmed again, and the vegetables thrown in, the cloves and pepper also, and then the whole left to simmer slowly three hours. At the end of this time it should be strained through a clean towel and allowed to cool. Note. — The directions for clearing this ^tock, are to be found under the heading " Qear Soup," on Page 3, beginning "Put the whites and shells of two eggs," etc. Tapioca Cream Soup.— For this soup provide: one quart of white stock, two ounces of crushed tapicoa, tlie yolks of four eggs, four tablespoonfuls of sweet cream, one-half a saltspoonful of salt, and an equal quantity of pepper. The stock must first be brought to the boiling point, and as it boils, the tapioca should be sprinkled in care- fully to prevent its lumping, and when this is done, both allowed to simmer for twenty minutes. While the stock »i^d tapioca are boiling, the egg-yolks, the cream, peppef TURKISH SOUP— SOUP A-LA-REINE. g and salt should be put into a bowl and smoothly beaten together. Then let the boiling liquid cool a little, — two minutes will be sufficient, — after which put two tablespooa- fuls of it to the mixture in the bowl, stir it together and pour the whole into the saucepan, put all over the fire for two minutes, stirring meantime to prevent boiling, when the eggs will have cooked without curdling, and it is ready for serving, which should be done very hot. Turkish Soup.— Furnish for this : One quart of white stock, one-half teacupful of whole rice, the yolks of two eggs, one tablespoonful, of jcream, one-half saltspoonful of salt and an equal amouift of pepper. In preparing this soup boil first the rice in the stock for twenty minutes. At the end of this time pass the whole through a wire sieve, rubbing such of the rice as may stick through with a wooden spoon, then stir it thoroughly to beat out such lumps as the rice may have formed, and return all to the saucepan. The yolks of egg, cream, pepper and salt must now be well beaten together and added to the stock and rice, and the whole stirred over the fire for two minutes, care being taken to prevent boiling after the eggs are put in, for reasons already given. This soup should also be served very hot. Soup &-la-Reine. — For this there will be required : One young fowl, one Bermuda onion, one and one- half quarts of cold water, one sprig of parsley, one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, three gills of cream, one-half a dessert spoonful of salt, and one-half teaspoonful of white pepper, one-half dozen celery tops. Begin the preparation of this soup by putting the fowl into a. large saucepan and covering it with the given lO SOUPS. quantity of water. When this boils and has been skimmed, add the vegetables and the herbs, also the pep- per and salt^ and allow the whole to boil slowly for one hour. After boiling this length of time, the fowl must be taken out, the white meat cut from the' breast, and put aside to be used later. This being done, return the fowl to the saucepan and let it boil for two hours longer, then draw off the liquor and strain it through a sieve. Take now the white meat and chop it very fine, or pound it in a mortar as may be most convenient, mix well with it the cream, pour the compound into the strained liquor, put the whole into a clean saucepan, and allow it just to come to the boiling when it is ready for use. Note — Bj celery-tops the small tender leaves at the top of the stalk are meant, which are delicious as a flavoring agent. Rabbit Soup. — Materials and quantities must be provided as follows : Two rabbits, three ounces of butter, two quarts of boiling water, one and one^half ounces of flour of rice, one grain of grated nutmeg, three Bermuda onions, one teaspoonful of salt, one quarter of \a teaspoonful of pepper. Preparatory to the making of this soup the rabbits should be soaked for an hour in strong salt and water for the purpose of draining out the blood and also taking from them the strong, wild, gamey flavor peculiar to them ; then cut them into pieces convenient for the sauce- pan, and wash them well in boiling water to whiten the meat. Now put them so prepared, into the saucepan and pour the two quarts of boiling water over them, adding the MULLIGA TA 1¥N£ Y SO UP. 1 1 onions, pepper and salt, and allow all to boil, until the meat of the game will separate readily from the bone. In a separate saucepan then melt the butter, stir into it the flour of rice, and strain the liquor from the rabbits into it. Add to this the nutmeg and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. When it is ready for serving. Note — In departing from the usual mode of using either cold water or cold stock as above, it is to be noted that the boiling water is here used to keep the meat from darkening, which it has a ten- dency to do. Note — If it should be desired, the small, nice pieces of meat may be added to this soup, and also a soup of squirrel may be made after this same method. Miilligata'wney Soup. — Materials and quantities: one fowl, two quarts of cold water, two onions, two ounces of butter, two ouiices of flour, one tablespoonful of curry- powder, one teaspoonful of sugar, one-half teacupful of whole rice, one desserts poonful of salt, one teaspoonful of whole white pepper. Begin this preparation by first covering the fowl with the two quarts of water, and bring it to boiling over a quick fire. When it boils up and has been skimmed, add the pepper-corns, salt and onions, then boil slowly until the meat of the fowl becomes tender. Now removing the fowl from the saucepan, cut the meat from the breast and legs, making the same into small pieces to thicken the soup with later, and return the bones and remaining fowl to the stock, when all must be allowed to boil for one hour longer, and then strained. The butter has then to be melted in a fresh saucepan, and the flour, curry-powder and sugar added, with which put the strained stock, and whole rice, and boil the whole for twenty minutes. 12 SOUPS. Just before serving add the small pieces of chicken cut from the breast and legs, andsiend to table very hot. Oxtail Soup. — Ingredients to be used in the follow- ing proportions: two oxtails, two quarts of second stock, ten cloves, one teaspoonful of pepper-corns, one dessert spoon- ful of salt, one large carrot, one turnip. First cut the oxtails into pieces about two inches in length, wash them well in cold 'water, put them together with the stock into a saucepan, and bring quickly to the , boiling point. When boiling, skim well and add the salt, also the pepper-corns and cloves secured in a piece of muslin or bag, after which allow it to boil slowly for two hours. Then the carrot and turnip should be cut into dice, or with a French cutter into balls, and added to the soup, boiled therein half an hour, when removing the cloves and pepper-corns, the soup is ready for use. PUREES. Furde a,-la-Oo?id6.— For this will be required: one pint of haricot beans, three pints of white stock, one car- rot, one small turnip, one Bermuda onion and a bouquet gam^e, two ounces of butter, one-half pint of cream, two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce. The beans must have' been soaked over night in cold water, and when ready to begin the preparation of the pur6e, the w^ter must be drained of^ and the soaked beans put on to boil in the stock. When the stock boils, the vegetables, the bouquet ' garnfee and the butter must be added, and these togethei allowed to boil for two hours, when it should be taken from the fire and passed twice through a fine sieve. The cream and the tomato sauce should now be put in, also PVR£e Of GREEN PEAS-^TOMA TO PUR$R. 13 the pepper and salt, of which one-half saltspoonful of each is sufficient, and the whole be brought to the boiling point, great care being taken to take it from the fire the instant this point is reached or the cream will curdle and the dish be spoiled. Note. — Tq prepare a ' bouquet ganufe '' tie a mprsel of celery and a sprig of thyme into a bay leaf. The small dry white bean, such as is commonly used for baking, may be used in making this puree. Purge of G-reen Pease.— Take for this : One quart of shelled peas, one and one-half pints of white stock, one Bermuda onion, two ounces of butter, three tablespoonfuls of cream, one teaspoonful of sugar, one-half saltspoonful of salt and an equal amount of pepper. Put first the peas, the onion and the stock into a saucepan and boil them together twenty or thirty minutes, after which pass the whole through a sieve, in order that the stock may become smoothly thickened with the peas and the skins removed. Add then to this mixture the cream, the butter and the sugar, and let all be brought to the point of boiling, keeping in mind that the cream has been added and will curdle if permitted to remain upon the fire an instant too long. Season now with the pepper and salt. And serve very hot. Note — The peas for this Pur^e should be very youi^ in order that the color of fhe dish may be a pretty bright green. Tomato PurSe. — For^this provide : One quart of canned tomatoes, one and one-half pints H SOUPS. of white stock, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one teaspoonful of sugar, one gill of cream, one-half salt- spoonful of salt and as much pepper. In preparing this purte begin with boiling the toma- toes and the stock together for three quarters of an hour. Pass both then through & fine sieve, and while straining, melt in the saucepan the butter, into which stir the flour, and returning the strained liquor then to the saucepan, stir all together until it boils. Now add the sugar, the pepper and the salt, and pour the purge into the tureen, after which add the cream which if otherwise done, will be almost certain to curdle with the sour of the tomatoes. PURfiES.-^ECOND DIVISION. Asparagus Purde.— For this there will, be re- quired : One bundle of asparagus, five ounces of butter, one and one-half ounces of flour, three pints of white stock, one-half pint of cream, one-half saltspoonfUl of salt and the same quantity of pepper. The asparagus has first to be treated by breaking off the tender tips and putting them aside, then blanch the remaining pieces in boiling water, drain them thoroughly, and place them in a saucepan with the butter and flour. Stir all together for five minutes, taking great cate to pre- vent browning, then add the stock and let all boil slowly, until the asparagus is tender. When this is accomplished pass the whole through a fine sieve, and returning it to the saucepan allow it to simmer for twenty minutes, after which add the remaining three ounces of butter. Boil the cream in a separate saucepan and add just before TVKmP FURiE— POTATO PUrAe. 15 serving. Have ready in a tureen the asparagus tips, having previously boiled them in salt and water, and pour over the Purfee as soon as the cream has been added Tiimip Fur€e.— ^Materials to be used in the fol^t lowing quantities : One and one-half pounds of turnip, one ounce of flour, three pints of white stock, three ounces of rice, three ounces of butter, one-half pint of double cream, one-half saltspoonfal of sdlt, and an equal quantity of pepper and sugar. Blanch the turnips with plenty of boiling water to keep them white, then soak them in cold water for one hour. Melt in a saucepan Itwo ounces of butter, stir into this the flour and two pints of the white stock. Stir the compound now until it boils and then put in the turnips, pepper, salt and sugar, having well drained and dried the turnips after taking them from the water. This must simmer until the turnips are tender, when it should be passed through a sieve and the remainder of the stock added, bringing all again to the boiling point. The rice should now be washed well and boiled in two quarts of water for twenty minutes, when the water should be well drained from it and the rice placed in the tureen, the pur^e poured over it, adding then the cream and the remaining ounce of butter, stirring all until the butter melts. When it is ready for immediate serving. Note. — The tnmips must be weighed after being pared, and should always be pared thickly as the outside is always bitter. Potato Furie. — For this should be furnished : one pound of potatoes, one Bermuda onion, two leaves of celery, one and one-half pint of whole stock, one gill of i6 soOPs. single cream, one ounce of butter, one-half saltspoonful of salt, and the same amount of pepper. , So provided, put into the saucepan the potatoes, pared and sliced, the celery, onion and butter, stirring all over the fire for five minutes, taking care that they do not dis- color. Add now one pint of stock, and let it boil slowly until the potatoes are cooked done, then pass all through a sieve, using the remaining one-half pint of stock hot, to prevent the gluten of the potatoes from stiffening and clogging in the sieve. The saucepan should then be well washed ajid the pur^e returned to it, the cream, pepper and salt added, and stirred until it boils. This should be served with fried bread or asparagus tips, arrangitig either in the tureen as before directed, and pouring the pur^e over. Note. — B;^ single cream, that is meant which arises in twelve hours. Double cream arises in twenty-four hours, and cream for but- ter in forty-eight hours. , General Notes on Pur&s. — These purees are intended to suf- fice for serving four persons, and the apparent inequality of liquids used will be found to correspond with the different lengths of time for boiling which is, of course, the reducing process. If it should happen that the purde is thickened unduly by boiling too quickly, this fault may be remedied by addittg more of the stock while it is being passed through the sieve. OYSTERS AND OTHER SHELLFISH. Oyster Soup a-la-Reine.— One quart of oysters, one pint of white stock, one-half pint of cream, one and one-half ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one blade of OLAM CffO WDER. \ ; mace, one grain of cayenne, one teaspoonful of salt, and half as much pepper- Drain first the liquor from the oysters, and putting the liquor over the fire, bring it to the boiling point. In a separate saucepan melt the butter, , stir into it the flour and pour in the stock. Add also the mac^ pepper, cayenne and salt, and let all boil for ten minutes, when the oysters should be added. Watch the oysters closely, and when the leaves begin to shrivel, pour the soup into the tureen and add thereto the cream, which must have been made boiling hot. Note. — The greac dtfficultj to be surmounted in making this soiip, is bringing the cream and liquor together without curdling ^hich is obviated by boiling each separately. Clam Cho-wder. — For this is required*, fifty hard clams, twenty-five soft clams, three Bermuda onions, one fourth pound of pork, six potatoes, four pilot biscuits, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one dessert spoonful of chopped thyme, one fourth of a quart can of tomatoes, one dessert spoonful of salt, one dessert spoonful of pepper, one-half wineglassful of Worcestershire sauce, two ounces of butter. Begin by melting the butter in a frying pan, and put into the same when hot, the pork and the onion cut into very small pieces, and fry to a light brown. Put this pre- paration into a saucepan with the potatoes boiled and mashed, and add the pilot biscuits which must have been previously soaked in cold water. The chopped parsley, thyme and tomatoes should then be put in, also the clams, Worcestershire sauce, pepper and salt, and the whole now cooked for thirty minutes slowly. 1 8 soi/ps. Note.— When soft dams are not available the number majr be made up with the ordinary hard clam, and if these should be large. It might be better to chop them, not too fine. When pilot biscuit are not to be obtained, hard crackers may be substituted. Clam Soup.— ^Procure: one quart of clams, one pint of milk, three ounces of butter, one grain of cayenne, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one ounce of flour. The clams must first be strained and the liquor re- duced by taking one third or its quantity, and adding to It two thirds of water and the liquid so produced brought to the boiling point. Melt then the butter in a separate saucepan, add to it the fl,our, then the milk, and stir the mixture until it boils. Add now the pepper, salt, cayenne and clams, which should be cut into pieces, and pour over this the boiling liquor, allowing all to cool, until the pieces of clam are tender, probably ten minutes, and serve hot. Stewed Terrapin.— For this there will be required; one terrapin, seven ounces of butter, one and one half ounces of fiour, one.gill of cream, one-half pint of madeira wine, one grain of cayenne, one-half saltspoonful of salt, and an equal quantity of pepper. Begin by throwing the terrapin into boiling water, and boiling it until the claws will draw out. This will take from thirty to forty-five minutes. The shell should now be drawn asunder, which may be readily accomplished by inserting the fingers at the aperture of the neck. Pick out then the meat, exercising caution not to break the bladder, the gall, or the sand bags, which are of course, to be considered as refuse. FRICASSEE OF OVSTER. ig Meit the butter now in a saucepan, add the flour and cream, which must be very sweet, as it is so apt to curdle, stir carefully until it boils, when the pepper, salt and cayenne should be thrown in together with the meat from the terrapin. Cook this now for ten minutes, then draw it from the fire, and add the madeira and eggs, if the ter- rapin have furnished any. Serve immediately. Stewed Terrapin d, Superieure.-For this there will be .required: two terrapin, one-half pound of butter, yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, two teaspoonfuls of flour, one and one-half gills of cream, two wineglassfuls of sherry, one saltspoonful of salt, and as much pepper. Boil and open the terrapin, as directed in Recipe No. 4. Put the butter into a bowl and beat it to a cream with the back of a wooden spoon. Add to this the yolks of the eggs, and beat both until thoroughly mixed, when the flour should be introduced by degrees, and the whole brought slowly to the boiling point. Take , then the pieces of meat from the two terrapin, the pepper and salt, and put all with the butter, eggs, and flour previously prepared and boil the whole slowly for three quarters of an hour. Care should be taken to stir from time to time, to prevent burning, while thus boiling, and at the expiration of this time, add the cream, letting it all boil for fifteen minutes longer, when it should be drawn from the fire, the sherry added. Serve at once. OYSTERS AND OTHER SHELLFISH.— SECOND DIVISION. Frioapsee of Oyster. — Procure for this : 20 SHELLFISH. Twenty-five oysters, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, yolks of two eggs, one teaspoonful of lemon juice, one grain of cayenne, one grain cif grated nutmeg, a lump of salt the size of a pea, one-half a saltspoonf ul of pepper. Bring first the oysters in their own liquor to the boil- ing point, and when this is reached strain them and put the oysters, for the time, aside. Melt now in a separate sauce- pan, the, butter, and add thereto the flour togethef with one teacupful, of the strained liquor. Cook this for about two minutes, to give the mixture consistency, and then taking the saucepan from the fire, drop in the yolks of the eggs, one by one, stirring quickly until all is well mixed together. Add then the lemon-juice, pepper, salt, nutmeg and cayenne, when the whole should be placed again over the fire, stirred briskly to prevent boiling, and allowed to become very hot. Just before serving drop in the oysters andi serve on buttered toast. Fried Oysters.— Provide for this : Twenty-five large oysters, two tablespoonfuls of flour, four tablespoonfuls of milk, four tablespoonfuls of cracker- dust, two eggs, four heaped tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one saltspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pep- per, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg. Put the oysters into a strainer and drain them thor- oughly of their liquor. Then upon a plate, mix together the flour, milk, pepper and salt, into which preparation dip the oysters one by one, u^ng a fork and takiliig care not to mutilate the oyster. Place now upon a sheet of kitchen paper the cracker-dust,^ and putting the oysters therein, lift the sheet of paper by its opposite sides and roll them in the dust from side to side. The oysters should now bp removed to a plate an4 left standing for PRIED OYSTERS, 21 half an hour in order that the juices may drain out and harden tlie cracker dust encasing them. Heat meantime in a stew-pan one pound of clarified fat, and when the blue smoke arises therefrom, throw in a peeled potato to keep it from burning. Upon a plate beat now the two eggs, dip the oysters one by one into them, then roll them in the bread crumbs, which has been made ready upon the kitchen paper, and with which has been put the nut- meg, and drop them lightly into the hot clarified fat, let- ting them remain therein for three minutes. Before serv- ing put them for a moment upon a clean sheet of kitchen paper that it may absorb the extraneous fat. Notes — It is important to avoid touching the oysters with tht heated hands as it makes them both tough and heavy. Clarified fat and lard boils at about five hundred degrees, which is more than double the heat of boiling water. At three hundred and seventy-five degrees the blue smoke arises from these heated substances which is the cooking point, and boiling fat or lard will bum to a cinder instantly anything that is put into it. The peeled potato prevents burning as it furnishes an object for the fat to act upon and so keeps it from growing hotter ; a piece of hard bread will answer the same purpose. A large quantity of fat is used in this recipe, but its extravagance is tempered by the fact that the same fat may be used over and over again until the heating property is exhausted, The reason for allowing the oysters to stand for thirty minutes after being rolled in the cracker-dust is that unless so permitted to harden, the egg with which the oyster is subsequently treated would not adhere but merely draw the cracker-dust off, making it thus necessary to pack these substances on with the hands and a heavy, soggy dish be the consequence. Fried oysters must be quickly cooked and as quickly , served. I^ecipe for clarifying fat on ))3fje— . 22 OYSTEXS. Oysters &'la-Cr€me. — Materials and quantities as follows : Twenty-five large oysters, one dessert spoonful of chopped parsley, one heaped tablespoonful of bread- crumbs, three and one-half ounces of butter, one and one- half ounces of flour, a piece of onion half the size of a nutmeg, one gill of cream, one-half saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one-half saltspoonful of pepper, a piece of salt the size of a pea. The oysters should first be boiled in their own liquor for five minutes, after which strained, cut into rough pieces, and put upon a plate. Season them then with the pepper, salt and nutmeg. Melt the butter now in a fresh saucepan, adding thereto the flour and the cream, and bml all together for two minutes. Take then the sauce- pan from the fire, put into it the oysters and the parsley and onion, chopped finely, as well. This mixture must now be put nicely into large, deep oystei' shells, the bread crumbs sprinkled over each, and put into a quick oven until browned over the top. Note. — ^As the oysters used do not always furnish the proper shells for this preparation, it is well to select from time to time,, the shells from oysters used in other ways, and scrubbing them well, make a reserve of deep shells for this purpose. Broiled Oysters.— There will be required for this: twenty-five large oysters, two tablespoonfuls of flour, four tablespoonfuls of milk, four tablespoonfuls of cracker-dust, two eggs, four heaped tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, two ounces of butter, and the juice of half a lemon, one- half a saltspoonful of salt, and an equal amount' of pepper. Drain thoroughly the liquor from the oysters, mix upon a plate th? flour, milk, pepper and sfilt. OYSTES CROQUETTES. 23 Dip the oysters into this mixture, one by one, and, putting the cracker-dust upon a sheet of kitchen paper, drop the oysters into the dust separately, and roll them from side to side by lifting the paper alternately at op- posite comers. Return then to the plate, using a fork in the lifting, and let them stand for thirty minutes, that the dust may harden with the juice. Beat the eggs now until very light, and dip the oysters, one by one therein, then into the bread crumbs, and having lightly greased the broiler, put them into it, and broil for five minutes. In serving, put the butter upon them in small lumps, and squeeze over them the lemon juice. Note. — Before beginning the preparing of oysters in, this manner, it wonld be well to read the notes On fried oysters, page 21. Oyster Croquettes, — Materials to be used in the following proportions: twenty-five large oysters, one des- sert spoonful of chopped parsley, three and one-half ounces of butter, one and one-half ounces of flour, one gill of cream, one teaspoonful of lemon juice, one egg, three heaped tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one half salt- spoonful of pepper and a piece of salt, the size of a pea. The oysters should be boiled in their own liquor for five minutes, then strained, cut into rough pieces and sea- soned with the pepper and salt. The butter must then be melted in a fresh saucepan, the flour added, also the cream, and all cooked for two minutes. Remove the saucepan now from the fire, and put in the oysters, pars- ley and lemon juice, after which mix all well together, and turn out upon a plate, leaving it to cool for one hour. When cool, form the mixture into small balls, beat the egg very light, and roll them in it, after which put the 24 OYSTERS AND OTHER SHELLFISH. bread crumbs upon a sheet of kitchen paper, roll each ball therein, from side to side separately, and fry in hot clarified fat or lard, for two minutes. Put them as taken from the fat upon a piece of the kitchen paper for a moment, to drain the grease off. And serve on a heated napkin garnished with sprigs of parsley. oysters and other shellfish.— special dish:^s. \ Crab Pie or Deviled Crabs. — Provide: two crabs, three ounces^ of butter, one ounce of flour, one gill of milk, one gill of cream, one teaspoonfiil of anchovy sauce, one tablespoonful of bread crumbs, one saltspoonful of pepper, one-half saltspoonful of salt. First throw the crabs into boiling water, and boil them for quarter of an hour. Pick the meat then from the shell, taking care not to break the shells, as they are to be used as natural bake pans for the pie. Cut the meat into irregular pieces, and put them in readiness for use, then taking a fresh saucepan, melt twp ounces of the butter to which add the flour, milk and cream, and boil all for two minutes. The saucepan must now be taken from the fire and the Anchovy sauce, pepper and salt, and meat from the crab added. When this is mixed thoroughly together, arrange it smoothly in the shells, sprinkle thickly with the bread-crumbs, putting the remaining but1;er in small pieces on the top of each, and brown in a quick oven. Lobster Outlets— Place in readiness : One lobster, one and one-half ounces of butter, one 4 .ince of flour, one gill of cold water, pne tablespoonful LOBSTER CUTLETS 2$ of cream, one-half teaspoonful of lemon-juice, one grain of cayenne, one saltspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper, one egg, three tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs. The lobster should be put into boiling water for twenty minutes after which the head must be twisted off and the coral that runs down the back removed. Beat this coral with half an ounce of butter together in a mortar, and to make it perfectly smooth rub it through a wire sieve. Now melt in a saucepan the remainder of the butter, add thereto the flour and cold water, stir all until the water boils, and then allow it to boil two minutes, Take it now from the fire, and add the coral, cream, pepper and salt, lemon-juice and cayenne. When this is done cut the lobster into small, convenient pieces, and mix them well with the contents of the saucepan. Turn all now out upon a plate and set to cool for one houJr. When cool, divide into five pieces and form into cutlets,' similar in shape to cutlets of lamb, dip them lightly into the egg, which must have been well beaten, roll them in the bread crumbs, which must have been placed upon kitchen paper for the purpose, from side to side, and fry for two minutes in hot clarified fat or lard. When done put them to drain for a moment upon a clean piece of kitchen-paper and serve on a hot napkin, garnished with the claws of the lobster. Note. — The female lobster should be selected for this dish as it alone furnishes the coral which gives both a delicious flavor and beautiful color to the composition. 26 PiSH. FISH. Filet de Sole, §. la Maitre d'Hotel.— Take for this : two large sole, two ounces of butter, one-half ounce of flour, four tablespoonfuls of cream, one-half teaspoon- ful' of letoon-juice, one dessert spoonful of chopped pars- ley, one-half saltspoonful of salt, one-half saltspoonful of pepper. Begin this by reversing the usual rule for cleaning fish, skin the sole first and then filet it. To do this the skin must be loosened at the tail, the fish being held firmly to the table with a dry towel, and with the disengaged hand the skin quickly torn off. This process must be repeated as the sole has two distinct sides to be relieved of skin Make then an incision straight down the back with a sharp knife, and pressing the knife as closely as possible to the backbone, separate the flesh from it, removing the four filets. Roll each filet separately,^n the fashion of a rolled jelly-cake, place them side by side in a slightly greased tin, squeeze over each a little of the lemon-juice, to preserve their color, cover them with a piece of greased kitchen-paper and bake in a brisk oven ten minutes. While the filets are baking, cover the heads and skins of the fish with cold water, and boil for five minutes ; then melt in a small saucepan the butter, add to it the floilr and one gill of the liquor, obtained by boiling the heads and -skins, boil all for two minutes, stirring meantime, when it must be taken from the fire and the creajn, pepper and salt added. Put the filets now into a flat dish, pour this sauce around them, and sprinkle over each filet a little of the chopped parsley. And serve. SOLE A IV GRATIN 37 Note — Laige flounder may also be prepared after this recipe with the same result. Boiled Codfish. — Provide: four pounds of cod, middle cut, one large tablespoonful of vinegar, one-half tablespoonful of salt. The codfish should be purchased the day before it is desired to serve, and permited to lie over night in salt. When ready to boil, fill the fish kettle two thirds full of boiling water, add to ihis the vinegar and salt, place th^ fish into the drainer, and plunge it into the boiling water, where it must remain for thirty minutes, boiling rapidly. Serve upon a dry napkin, garnished with parsley and with it * oysters or egg sauce. Notes. — If the cod should be of more than ordinary thickness, it must boil a few minutes longer, that it may become done through. This recipe may be used in boiling all large fish, except salmon. Salmon must be treated with this difference. It should be put to boil in tepid instead of boiling water, and thoroughly skimmed as it boils up. For boiling small and fresh water fish, use cold water, and the in- stant the boiling point is reached, remove the fish. In this way small fish may be prevented breaking in the kettle. . If not provided with a fish kettle which has the plunging drainer, it is better to wrap the large fish in a single layer of course toweling. Sole au gratiu. — This requires: one small sole, two heaped tablespoonfuls, of bread crumbs, one table- spoonful of chopped parsley, two small mushrooms, one ounce of butter, a piece of chaldt the size of a bean, two tablespoonfuls of second stock, one saltspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper. First the bread crumbs must be put into a dry tin, and * See sauces, page 163. 28 FISff. browned to a pale brown in the oven. Sprinkle half of them, when prepared, upon a small baking tin, also having chopped one of the mushrooms, and half of the chal6t finely, scatter this with half of the parsley over the bread- crumbs. Skin now the sole,* and ciit away the head fins and tail. Place the fish over the preparation in the baking tin, sprinkle over it the remaining bread crumbs, chopped mushroom, chaldt and parsley, also the pepper and salt, put over all the butter in small pieces, and bake in a quick oven ten minutes. Serve on a hot dish, with the stock heated and poured around. Note. — If the chaldt or small French onion is not to be procured, a bit of the common onion may be substituted. Broiled Shad. — Frepaire: one shad, two ounces butter, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one-half teaspoon- ful of salt. Split the shad, when cleaned, directly through the back bone with a strong sharp knife. , Grease the broiler, slightly, place the fish between its leaves, and broil over a quick, clear fire, for ten minutes. When done, remove quickly from the broiler, dress with the butter, pepper and salt, and send it to the table as hot as possible. The dish inay be garnished with lemon quarters, and a sprig of parsley at either end. Note. — All classes of broiling fish, may be treated after this re- cipe. Stuffed Haddock.— Provide : one large haddock, two ounces of beef suet, three tablespoonfuls of bread* * See directions for skinning sole, page 36. fiSIEP SMELTS. ig crumbs, one teaspoonful of chopped thyme, one dessert spoonful of chopped parsley, ope egg, one saltspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper. The haddock must be thoroughly dried after cleaning and the tail and fins cut off leaving the head. Make a stuffing by mixing two tablespoonfuls of the bread crumbs with the parsley, thyme, pepper and salt into wliich drop the egg to give the dressing consistency. Pack this stuff- ing snugly into the stomach of the fish, sew the sides together with needle and- thread, place it in a greased baking pan, dampen it over with milk or egg, sprinkle over it the remainder of the bread crumbs and bake three quarters of an hour in a moderate oven, taking occasion to baste from time to time with the drippings. Note — To bake evenly the fish should stand in the pan in the position which it naturally takes in the water, and this may be ac- complished by placing a long skewer first through the tail of the fish, next through the centre of the body and lastly through the head. A strong cord passed in the same manner through the fish and drawn taut will serve the purpose. Salmon, trout, sea bass, and shad may be done also after this recipe. Fried Smelts. — One dozen smelts, two tablespoon- fuls of flour, two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper. Take first the flour and the bread crumbs and place them upon separate sheets of kitchen paper. Mix with the bread crumbs the salt and pepper, when the fish have been thoroughly prepared* dip them one by one into the flour for the purpose of drying them. Beat now the eggs until very light and roll the fish one by one therein, place them then into the bread crumbs, rolling each from side to side antil well covered. Throw the fish, thus prepared, into smoking hot clarified fat or laxd and cook for five min- utes. Garnish with parsley and serve in a folded napkin. Note — ^All pan fish including brook trout, may be treated in this way. Note — White bait is cooked by simply being thrown into hot lard just as they are taken from the water and cooked for two minutes. FISH— SECOND DIVISION. Pish k-la-Russe. — Provide for this : one-half pound of fiour, one-quarter of a pound of butter, one teaspoon- ful of yeast powder, three eggs, one-half teacupful of boiled rice, one pound raw fish, one gill of cold water, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper. Put the Hour upon a mixing board and with it a little salt and the yeast-powder, rubbing all together. Make this into a light dough with the cold water and the white of one egg whipped to a stiff froth. Knead the dough lightly and roll out as thinly as possible. Spread upon this paste one-third of the butter, fold it in three layers, and again roll out thinly, spread upon it the second part of butter, and repeat the process of folding and rolling. Now spread on the last piece of butter and refold it in the same manner. Roll the crust once again into a square, place in the centre of it the boiled rice, two of the eggs, which must have been hard boiled, also the fish, sprinkle over this the remaining salt and t^e pepper, wet the edges of the crust with the yolk of egg, fold it over squarely, brush the entire surface over with the yolk of egg, and place it FISIt CAKkS. jt first in a quick oven for ten minutes when it should be changed to a cooler part of the oven, to prevent its brown- ing too quickly and allowed to bake three quarters of an hour. Note — The quantity of water given cannot be imperative for the reason that the amount to be used is determined by the amount of gluten in the flour which is never equal in different brands. Any kind of fish may be used for this preparation so long as it is of a kind to be boned and skinned, but filets of sole, flounder or had- dock will be found most satisfactory. Fish Cakes. — For these will be required: one pound ' of cold boiled fish, one pound of raw potatoes,' two ounces of butter, two eggs, four heaped tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one grain of cayenne, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Separate the skin and bone from the flesh, with two forks, and put the fish, cut into irregular pieces, into a large bowl. Boil the potatoes, putting a little salt into the boiling water, place a sieve over the bowl containing the fish, put the potatoes while hot into the sieve, and rub them through over the fish, with the back of a wooden spoon. The pepper, salt, and cayenne, should now be added, drop in also the yolks of the eggs, and the butter, niix together thoroughly, and form the mixture into round flat cakes. ' Beat then the whiles of the eggs sufiiciently to break the albumen, dip the cakes therein, place the bread crumbs upon a sheet of kitchen paper, and roll the cakes separately in it. They must now be thrown intoi hot clarified fat or lard, and cooked for three minutes, when they may be transferred to a sheet of kitchen paper to re- 32 FISH. move any particles of fat, that may have clung to the surface. Serve garnished with parsley a.nd very hot. Noi X, — ^Wben fresh fish is not available, salt .cod or oth^ fish may be substituted, leaving out of course the salt, and picking the salt fish to shreds and washing through numerous waters, until sufficiently freshened. When salt fish is used, it should be carefully dried after freshening, by putting it into a clean towel, and wringing until mois- ture will no longer exude. Turbot a.-la-Creme. — Materials as follows: one pound of cold boiled turbot, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one ounce of grated cheese, one-half pint of milk, one gill of cream, one saltspoonful of grated nut- meg, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one-half teaspoon- ful of salt. Remove the bone and skin of the fish, and place it, upon a flat dish, cut into irregular pieces. Melt in a saucepan, the butter, stirring in the dry flour, to which add by degrees the milk, stirring constantly, to prevent the flour from lumpitig, until it boils. When boiling add the cream, a little of the pepper and salt, allow all to cook for two minutes, after which pour the mixture over the pieces of fish in the flat dish. Sprinkle over this, the grated cheese, the remainder of the pepper and salt, and the nutmeg, place the dish into a moderate oven and bake for ten minutes. Note. — Turbot done in this manner must be prepared in the dish in- which it is to be sent to the table, as it cannot be moved. Salmon Pie. — For this will be required two pounds of salmon, one fourth pound of bread crumbs, one tablci spoonful of chopped parsley, two ounces of butter, two POTTED HALlSUT. 33 eggs, one gill of cold water, one teaspoonful of peppen one teaspoonful of salt. First mix well together the chopped parsley, bread crumbs, the pepper and the salt, and put a layer of this into the bottom of a flat dish. The salmon must then be cut into thin slices and a layer of it put next to the bread crumbs and parsley. In this way alternate layers must be placed in the dish until all of the material is used; then beat until very light the two eggs, add to them the water, and pour this mixture over the dish already arranged. Place upon the top of this, the butter in small pieces and bake in a moderate oven three quarters of an hour. Note. — ^Floundei, haddock and halibut may also be done in this way. Potted Halibut. — For this provide: two pounds of halibut, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of black pepper,* one-half teaspoonful of spice-for-potted-meats, one-half teacupful of vinegar, one-half teacupful of bass ale, one teaspoonfnl of tarragon vinegar, one ounce of butter. Lay the fish in layers in a deep dish, putting between each layer a little of the spice and pepper and salt, press the contents well down in the dish, then mix well together the vinegar, bass ale and tarragon vinegar and pour this composition over the halibut. Place the butter in small pieces over the top, and bake in a moderate oven, for thirty minutes. *NOTE. — The spice for potted meats is composed of the follow- ing ingredients thoroughly mixed. One ounce of ground cloves, one ounce pulverized mace, one ounce of Jamaica pepper, one ounce of grated lemon-rind, one-fourth ounce o£ cayenne, one grated nutmeg. j4 ^EA tL Kedgeree. — For this will be required: one pound of cold boiled fish, two ounces of butter, two eggs, one teacupful of rice, one teaspqonful of curry powder, one saltspooiiful of salt, one-half saltspqonful of pepper. Boil the eggs for ten minutes, and the rice for a quarter of an hour. Chop the eggs into irregular pieces ; and removing the skin and bdne of the fish, melt the butter in a saucepan, and add thereto the hard boiled eggs, the fish and rice. Stir all now together, over the fire, until it is very hot, taking care that the mixture does not bum, it . being very dry and apt to spoil, since the only moisture in it, is the butter. Add, just before serving, the curry-powder, pepper, and salt, and piling it very high in the middle of a hot dish, garnish the preparations with a little fresh parsley, and serve very hot. Note — Instead of garnishing this dish with sprigs of parsley, the parsley may be chopped and sprinkled over the top. MEATS— FIRST DIVISION. ROASTS. Roast Beef. — Six pounds of sirloin beef, one-half tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonfiilof pepper, one ounce of butter, one-half ounce of flour, one-half pint of second stock. Put the meat into a dry oven-pan, and then into a hot oven for ten minutes, that the albumen may form, closing up the pores of the beef and confining thus th? juices. ROAST TURKEY. 35 Allow the oven then to cool a little and continue roast- ing with a moderate heat, giving fifteen minutes to each pound of meat, and fifteen minutes over — which is one hour and three-quarters for a roast of this size. As soon as the fat is discharged from the meat into the pan, basting or moistening with this natural gravy should be commenced and continued at frequent intervals during the entire time of roasting. At the end of the specified roasting time, take the meat from the oven, put it on a hot platter and sprinkle over it the salt. Pour the grease now out of the oven-pan, as it is not to be used for the gravy, and put the stock into the pan, both that it may become brown and partake of the flavor of the roast ; then melt in a fresh saucepan the butter, stir into it the dry flour, add the pepper and a little salt, also the stock and letting all boil for two minutes. Serve in a sauce boat with the roast. Note— Veal, lamb and mutton may all be roasted by the same directions as for roasting beef. Mutton takes the same time to do, and veal and lamb require twenty minutes for each pound of meat and twenty minutes longer. The same sauce may be used for veal and mutton, but for Iamb only mint sauce is proper ; to prepare which see sauces page 164. Roast Turkey. — One turkey, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one-half pint of second stock, two teaspoonfuls of salt, two teaspoonfuls of pepper, four ounces of beef suet, seven ounces of bread crumbs, one egg, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one heaped teaspoonful of chopped thyme. After the turkey has been cleaned and singed, chop from it the claws and dipping the feet into boiling water, 36 ME A TS. draw off the skin. Slit them also through with a sharp knife, that by severing the tendon the leg may not draw up in an ugly manner when exposed to the heat. Twist the tip of the wings behind the shoulders, then pass a skewer through the under part of the wing, through the top part of the leg, straight through the body, — through the top part of the other leg and through the under part of the other wing, which brings the skewer in a straight line across the fowl. Take now another skewer and put it through the skin of the fowl at the side, at a point that will permit the fastening down of the legs, by running the skewer over them, through the , skin at the base of the bre,ast, and again into the skin of the bird on the opposite side. Having thus turned the turkey the dressing must now be prepared. Chop the suet finely, and mix with it the bread crumbs, the parsley, and thyme, also half of the pepper arid salt. To bind this together drop in the egg, and then stuff the preparation into the turkey through the incision at the heck, and when it is, full, fold the skin together and fasten by sewing through with a needle and thread. Put the bird now into a dry baking tin, and distribute one ounce of butter in small pieces over the breast, after which place it in a brick oven, and allow it to roast twenty minutes for each pound, and twenty minutes additionally. While the turkey is roasting, the neck and giblets should be put on to boil, first being well covered with cold water, and when the turkey is done^ the giblets, etc., should be taken from the water, and chopped very finely. ■ Place the roast now upon a hot platter, pour the grease out of the baking tin, and substitute for it the liquor made ROAST PORK. 37 by the boiling of the giblets. In a small saucepan, then melt the butter, stir into it the flour, add to it the liquor from the baking tin, also the chopped giblets, season all with the remainder of the pepper and salt, and let the whole cook. for two minutes. Serve in a gravy-boat along with the turkey. ' Note. — Chickens, ducks and geese may also be prepared and roasted in this manner, the stu£Sng for ducks and geese being differ- ent, only in the addition of two Bermuda onions, chopped fine, and one teaspoonful of sage, to the. seasoning of this given amount of Roast Fork. — One small loin of pork, three table- spoonfuls of bread crumbs, one Bermuda onion, one-half teaspoonful of chopped sage, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one ounce of chopped suet, one tablespoonful of dripping. First separate each joint of the loin, with a chopper, and then make an incision with a knife into the thick part of the pork in which to put the stuffing. Prepare the stuffing by mixing the bread crumbs together with the onion, which must have previously been finely chop- ped. Add to this the sage, pepper, salt and suet, and when all is thoroughly mixed, press the mixture snugly into the incision already made in the pork, and sew to- gether the edges of the meat with needle and thread,- in order to confine the stuffing. Grease well a sheet of kitchen paper with the drippings, place the loin into this, making an envelope of the paper, and securing it wifJi a wrapping of twine. Put to bake in a dry baking pan, in a brisk oven, basting immediately and constantly as the grease draws out, and roast a length of time, allowing 38 MEA TS. twenty minutes lo each pound of meat and twenty minutes longer. This should b.e served either with apple-sauce or apple-flitters. See page 132. Note. — The sage powdeis that may be purchased in small pack- ages can be used in all cases where chopped sage is required. Roast Bullocks-heart,— One bullocks-heart, three ounces of chopped suet, three ounces of bread crumbs, one tablespoonf ul of chopped parsley, one dessert spoonful of mixed powdered herbs, one gill of milk, two ounces of drippings, one Bermuda onion, one pint of cold water, one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, one teaspoonful of pepper, one dessert spoonful of salt. i The stuffing for this must first be prepared by mixing together the suet, bread crumbs^ parsley and powdered herbs. Bind this with the gill of milk and season with the pepper and salt. The heart must now be made ready by thoroughly washing it in several waters, and the ' deaf ears ' or valves closing the arteries cut oflf. Make the cells of the heart, now into one large one, by cutting away the partitions, place into this the st,ufiing, and greas- ing a sheet of kitchen paper, tie it over the top, in order to secure the stu£Sng. Dry whatever moisture there may be upon the out- side of the heart with a dry towel, and place it together with the drippings in an oven-tin, and allow it to bake briskly, twenty minutes for each pound, and twenty min- utes longer, basting meantime. While the heart is roasting, the * deaf ears ' must be washed, put into a saucepan with the pint of cold water, BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. 39 adding also the onion sliced, and the whole allowed to simmer slowly for one hour. When the heart is roasted, strain the liquor from the ' deaf ears,' melt in the saucepan the butter, stir into it the flour, and add to this the strained liquor, also the . catsup, pepper, and salt, and allow all to cook for two minutes, when the pepper should be removed from the heart, and placing it upon a hot platter, serve with th« sauce poured around. Note — ^A sheep's heart is delicious, done in the same way, the preparation being that the quantity of staffing must be made accord- ing to the size of the heart. General Note — The above processes have been termed roasting but are in reality baking. Roasting proper only being done by re- flected heat before an open fire. Meat is more nourishing done upon the spit than in the oven, for the reason that the unwholesome vapors are dissipated when exposed to the air, and preserved when confined to an oven. MEATS.— SECOND DIVISION. BOILED MEATS. Boiled leg of Mutton. — One leg of mutton, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one and one-half gills of milk, one saltspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper, two heaped tablespoonfuls of capers. Put over the fire a large saucepan of water and bring it to the boiling point. If the mutton be newly killed, beat it with a rolling-pin to soften the fibre, but it is better to have hung it a week if the weather permits. Plunge the meat into the boiling water and allow it to boil up once, ^hen 4raw the saucepan aside from the blaze of the fire. 40 -^^-^ TS. cover it closely and allow it to simmer slowly,, how slowly may be determined by keeping the water bubbling easily at one side, until it is done, which will be according to the weight of the leg, allowing fifteen minutes for each ^ound, and fifteen minutes longer. Fifteen minutes before the mutton will be done, pre- pare the sauce by melting in a. saucepan the butter, and stirring into this the dry flour. When the flour and but- ter are thoroughly mixed, add one gill and a half of the liquor that the mutton is boiling in, also the milk, pepper and salt, cook all two minutes to swell the grains of the flour. Then take the mutton up and place it on a large hot platter, pour over it the sauce, adding just before doing this the capers, in order that their color may not be lost by standing in the hot liquid. Note — The plunging of the mutton first into boiling water is for the purpose of hardening the albumen and confining the juices of the meat ; it is then allowed to cook slowly, that the fibre may not toughen, which rapid boiling would inevitably bring about. Boiled corned-Beef. — Six pounds of corned-beef, twelve ounces of flour, five ounces of beef-suet, one-half teaspoonful of baking-powder, one saltspoonful of salt, one dozen small carrots, one-half pint of,cold water. Place over the fire a large saucepan two-thirds full of cold water and put into it the meat. Bring this quickly to the boiling point over a hot fire, and when it boils, skim thoroughly.. / When the albumen has all been displaced and the scum all taken off, draw the saucepan aside from the blaze, and allowing fifteen minutes to each pound of meat, and fifteen minutes over, let the beef boil gently until doiie. BOILED FOWL. 4I Meantime the carrots should be well washed and thinly scraped, and three-quarters of an hour before the meat will be ready for serving, throw them in to cook with it. When this is done, mix next, in a large bowl, the suet, finely chopped, and flour ; add to this the baking-powder and salt and knead into a dry dough with the water. Divide this dough into six or eight pieces, roll each piece into a small ball and throw them one by one into the boiling liquor with the beef twenty minutes before serving. Note — The dropping in of the balls of dough cools the boiling liquor and care should therefore be taken to wait an instant between the putting in of each one that the liquid may boil up, otherwise the balls will burst apart,making a very ugly combination. Beef suet should be used unless the dish prepared is designed for the sick as it mixes most readily with other materials. For the sick, mutton suet should always be used as it is easier of digestion, being thinner in .the fibre, although more difficult to manipulate. Boiled Po'wl. — Egg Sauce. — Two fowls, three ounces of butter, one and one-half ounces of flour, one- half pint of milk, one-half pint of cream, two eggs, one saltspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper. After the fowls have been cleaned and singed, the legs must be chopped off at the first joint, and pocketed, which is done by pressing the bones inward until entirely sheathed in the skin.. Take then a trussing-needle, threaded from a ball of twine, put the points of the wings behind the shoulders, and passing the needle through the under part of the first wing at the point of the joint, on through the thick part of the leg at the top, thence straight through the body, through the other leg and wine at the corresponding point, draw the thread after 42 ME^ TS. carefully, forming a straight line across the fowl ; then turning back, put the needle through the upper part of the wing, through the skin of the neck and the upper part of the remaining wing, drawing the thread again after, and tying the two ends of the twine, which now approach each other, into a secure knot. Thread the trussing needle now anew, and putting it through the fowl at the tail, just over the back bone, pass it over one leg, through the skin at; the base of the breast, and over the other leg, bringing the ends of the twine again together, where they must be tied very tightly. When both fowls have been trussed, grease two sheets of kitchen paper and tie one over the breast of each fowl. Have then in readiness a large saucepan of boiling water, plunge the fowl therein and allow the water to boil up. When boiling cover the saucepan closely and drawing it aside frop the blaze of the fire, allow the fowls to simmer slowly, from an hour to an hour and a quarter, until the chickens are tender. While this is being accomplished put two eggs into boiling water, let them boil for ten minutes, then taking them from the fire, throw them at once into a bowl of cold water, that they may cool quidkly, and the coating of the yolks preserve their coloring. When the eggs are quite cold, remove the shells and chop the whites into irregular pieces, preparatory to making the sauce. Five minutes before the fowls are to be removed from the boiling, put into a small saucepan the butter, and melting it, stir therein the flour, adding by degrees the milk, stirring meantime until all boils, when the cream must be thrown in, also the pepper and salt, allowing the whole to c6olc together for two minutes. BOILED BEEFSTEAti POJJPlNG. 43 Remove now the fowl from the saucepan, take the papers off from the breasts, and cut out the strings, and place them upon a large hot platter, pouring over the breast of each the sauce, to which must be added at the last moment the whites of eggs, in order that they may not discolor with standing. Before serving, hold a wire sieve over the upturned breasts of the chickens, and rub the yolk of the eggs through upon them. Notes, — The length of time given for boiling is for very young fowl ; for older ones the time must be increased, to what length will be determined by the period at which the meat becomes tender. The object of trussing is to keep the fowl in proper form, and give it a plump, neat appearance, when brought to the table. The greased papers are put over the breast, for the purp'ose of keeping the meat white, and, by absorbing the grease with which they are satumted, tender. Boiled Beefsteak Pudding.— Two pouilds of steak from the round, two sheep's kidneys, one pound of flour, six ounces of beef suet, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one dessert spoonful of salt, one-half dessert spoonful of pepper, one-half pint of cold water, one des- sert spoonful of Mushroom catsup, one dessert spoonful of Worcestershire sauce. First mix well on a plate, the salt and pepper, leaving out a little of the salt, which will be required for the crust, after which cut the steak and kidney into inch- square pieces, and roll them about on the plate, until thoroughly seasoned. Now chop the suet finely, and put it upon a niixing board, together with the flour, add to this the baking powder and the remaining salt, and knead all into a light dough with the cold water. Cut off a third part of the 44 ME A TS. dough, and reserve it for the covering of pudding, and rolling the remainder until about one quarter of an inch in thickness, grease a quart bowl, and line it therewith. Put now loosely into this crust-lined bowl, the steak and kidney, and having poured over the top the catsup, and Worcestershire sauce, fill it to within an inch of the top, with cold water. The remainder of the crust should then be rolled out to the exact size of the bowl, and put over the meat, pinched firmly together with the lining crust around the edge. Dip a towel in hot water, flour it slightly, and tie it tightly over the top of the bowl to prevent any of the juices escaping, and putting all into a large saucepan of boiling water, allow it to boil for two hours and a half. If served in the bowl, a napkin may be arranged to cover the ware and the whole be carried to table on a round china or silver plate ; If it is to be transferred to another dish for serving, one should be selected for the purpose into the bottom of which the round of the upper crust will fit nicely, and care be exercised not to break the paste in turning it out. MEATS.— THIRD DIVISION. MEAT DISHES. Beefsteak Fie. — Three pounds of round steak, one dessert spoonful of salt, one-half dessert spoonful of pep- per, one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, one-half pint of second stock, one pound of flour, one-half pound of butter, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, three gills of cold water. The steak must first be cut into pieces three mches BEEFSTEAK Pt£. 45 square, into each piece put a little of the pepper and salt, and then roll each separately into a roll. Put these rolls loosely in the bottom of a flat, vegetable dish, pour over them the Worcestershire sauce, the catsup, and the stock. Place upon a mixing board the flour and baking powder with a little salt, mix all well together and knead into a light dough with the cold water. Roll this dough out as thinly as possible and dividing the butter into three pieces, spread one piece upon the dough. Fold the dough into three layers and again roll out, and repeat this pro- cess until the butter is all used. When this is done, roll it out to a size a little larger than the top of the vegetable dish and a half an inch in thickness. Rub the top of the vegetable dish with cold water, and cutting some narrow strips from the dough, line the edge therewith, and wetting this strip of lining also with cold water, cover the remaining dough over the top, when the edges should be pressed together with the thumb and the whole evenly cut around with a knife. The pie should then be brushed over with a little egg or milk as may be most convenient a hole cut into the top to permit the steam escaping, and the pieces of crust that have been cut off at the edges, cut and arranged ornamentally, over the surface to conceal the hole as much as possible without covering it. Put ■ the pie to bake in a quick oven for half an hour, to raise and cook the crust, then cooling the oven a little, allow it to bake slowly an hour longer or until the steak is quite tender, which may be ascertained by inserting a skewer or a fork. Note — If the crast should appear to be browning too much or too rapidly in the baking, it may be protected by covering it with a sheet of greased kitchen-paper. 46 MEATS. Hot-pot. — One and one-half pounds of lean mutton, two pounds of raw potatoes, one and one-half ounces of flpur, one dessert spoonful of salt, one-half dessert spoon- ful of pepper, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one tablespoonful of catsup, one ounce of butter, one-half pint of cold water. When the potatoes have been pared, put them into cold water, and allow them to come to the boiling point, which being reached, they are at once to be taken out. Slice then enough of the potatoes to cover the bottom of a good sized vegetable dish, putting them in in layers, after which cut the mutton into small, convenient pieces, roll each piece into a mixture made of the flour, pepper, salt and nutmeg, and put them into the dish in layers alter- nating with the layers of potato, until the contents are level with the top. The remaining potatoes should be cut in half and arranged over the top leaving the round sides up. Melt the butter and brush it over the top of the potatoes to prevent their hardening in the oven, pour the catsup and water in at the side of the dish, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour and a half. Note — Potatoes should never be used without being put fiist into cold water and then brought to the boiling point. This draws out the greenness, which produces indigestion and is exceedingly in- jurious to some stomachs. Stewed B^ef. — Four pounds of stewing beef, two carrots, two turnips, one oniony one-half ounce of flour, one ounce of butter, three gills of second stock, one-halt tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, one-half table- spoonful of catsup, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half tea- spoonful of pepper. tlAklCOT OP MUTTOt). ^f The butter must first be melted in a saucepan, and when the smoke arises therefrom put into it the beef and brown well on both sides. While the beef is browning put into a bowl the flour and make it smooth with a table- spoonful of the stock ; add then the catsup, Worcestershire sauce with the pepper and salt, and the remainder of the stock, stir all until thoroughly blended and pour the mix- ture over the browning beef. Stir the liquor around the meat until it boils, skimming the grease from the top as it arises, and adding then one carrot and one turnip, sliced, , also the onion. Draw the saucepan now aside from the blaze of the fire, and allow it to simmer slowly for two hours; meantime, half an hour before the time for cooking expires, cut the remaining carrot and turnip into fancy shapes with a vegetable cutter, throw them into a small saucepan filled with boiling water and cook them until quite tender. When the meat is done, place it upon a large hot platter, strain over it the gravy, and taking the prepared carrot and turnip from the water, drain, and garnish with them the stew. Haricot of Mutton. — One half dozen mutton chops, one-half ounce of butter, twelve button-onions, one ounce of flour, two turnips, one carrot, one tea- spoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one pint of second stock. Trim the fat from the chops, and melting the butter in a saucepan slice into it one of the onions. When the blue smoke arises from the heated butter put into it the chops and brown them to a nice, pale brown. When this is done take out of the pan the chops and pour off the grease, after which put the flour into the pan, the giease still adhering to which will be sufficient 4.8 MEA TS. ) to prevent its lumping, add to it the stock and stir all until it boils, when it should be skimmed to remove such particles of the onion and grease as may arise and the chops returned to the pan. AU should now be permitted to stew for half an hour gently when the button-onions must be added, also the carrot, cut in fancy shapes, and the turnips which must have been quartered, the pepper and salt, and the whole allowed to stew for half an hour longer, when it is ready to serve. Arrange the chops for serving, in a circle upon a hot platter, fill the vegetables into the centre, and pour the sauce around from the outer edge. Note — By button-onions is meant onions of the size of a button, — the smallest onions procurable. Blauquette of Veal.— Three pounds of filet of veal, one and one-half pints of white stock, one table- spoonful of lemon juice, one tablespoonful of sherry, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, yolks of two eggs, one tablespoonful of cream, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of white pepper, one-half ounce of flour. Begin' by cutting the veal' into small regular pieces about four inches square, place it then into a copper or porcelain-lined saucepan, and pour over it a pint of boil- ing white stock. Whatever of impurity there may be in the meat, will at once arise to the surface, therefore it must be immediately skimmed and allowed thereafter to simmer very slowly for one hour. While the meat is thus cooking put the flour into a bowl, wet, and make it smooth Tf ith a tablespoonful of the cold stock, add to it the pepper, salt, lemon-juice and sherry and the remainder of the stock, and pouring FRICASSiE OP CHICKEN. 49 this into the saucepan let the whole cook together for twenty minutes longer. Just before serving, put the yolks of the eggs into a bowl, together with the chopped parsley, beat these until thoroughly blended when the cream must be added, and when the saucepan containing the veal has been removed from the fire and allowed to cool for two minutes, pour into it this mixture and stir all quickly, to prevent the eggs curdling which , they are liable to do by coming in conjunction with the cream and lemon-juice. This should be served very hot. Note. — A copper or porcelain-lined saucepan is here specified because a common saucepan in which anything else has been cooked, unless especially scoured for this purpose, will unfailingly discolor the veal. Fricassee of Chicken. — One young fowl, one ounce of butter, one and one-half ounces of flour, one carrot, one Bermuda onion, one and one-half pints of second white stock, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half tea- spoonful of white pepper, one blade of mace, one gill of cream, one dozen of small mushrooms. \ First- disjoint the chicken and throwing it into cold water let it remain therein for twenty minutes. Put the pieces, of meat into a copper or porcelain-lined saucepan and pour over them the whole of the stock, boiling. As it boils skim it well, add the pepper and salt, also the carrot and onion, and allow all to cook as slowly as possible for half an hour, at the expiration of which, the pieces of fowl must be taken out and the liquor strained. Put the mushrooms now into the emptied saucepan, 3 50 MBAtS. cover them with cold water and let them Ijoil for five minutes, when they should be poured out and strained, and the saucepan thoroughly cleansed. Melt then in the saucepan the butter, add to it the flour, and by degrees, the strained stock, and when this boils, add the mace, the flour, and the mushrooms and allow all to cook together for twenty minutes longer. Remove now the mace and at the last moment add the cream. Serve on a large hot platter. Note, — If the canned mushrooms aie used they will be found already prepared, but if the fresh ones are preferred or are found more convenient they must be skinned before using. Rolled shoulder of Mutton. — One shoulder of mutton, three ounces of butter, one teaspdonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, three tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one and one-half ounces of chopped suet, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one egg, one gill of cold water. It is desirable that the mutton should be boned by the butcher, but should this oflSce fall to the cook it is easiest done by placing the mutton with the skin side to the table, and with a sharp knife, making an incision that will enable , the bone to be firmly taken hold of. Proceed then very carefully to separate the bone from the flesh, exercising caution not to break the outer skin. When this is accomplished prepare the dressing. Begin this by mixing in a bowl the pepper, salt, bread crumbs and suet. Add to this the chopped parsley and bind all together with the egg. Place this dressing into the shoulder where the bone has been removed and roll the meat into a neat roll, tying it loosely around with twine WJNDHAM CUTLETS. 51 as the bread in the stuffing swells and room must be allowed for this. Now melt the butter in a saucepan. When it is hot, put in the shoulder, cover it closely and allow it to cook for one hour and a half. During this time of cooking the meat should be frequently basted, and turned occasionally, that it may brown evenly on all sides. When ready for serving, put the meat upon a large, hot platter, pour the grease out of the saucepan and pour in its stead a gill of cold water. Stir the water well around and scrape with the spoon the bottom of the pan that all of the browned juices may be collected and when this liquor boils, pour it over the mutton and serve at once. Windham Cutlets. — Five mutton cutlets from the back rib, one gill of second stock, one carrot, one turnip, one small piece of celery, one onion, one pound of mashed potatoes, yolks of two eggs, one ounce of butter, one-half ounce of flour, one and one-half gills of cold water, one-half tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, one-half tablespoonful of catsup, six drops of caramel, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one pint of green peas. Trim all of the fat from the cutlets and leave a half an inch of the bone bare at the top of each one. Place them then in a copper frying-pan, and slice over them the carrot and turnip, onion and celery, adding also the pepper and salt. Pour over all the second stock and put the pan over a slow fire, allowing the contents to cook for twenty minutes, turning the cutlets meantime in order that they may cook evenly through. While they are cooking, rub the potatoes through a sieve to make sure that they are perfectly smooth, when they must be put into 53 M£A TS. a saucepan, the yolks of egg dropped into them, and stirred over the fire until the, eggs are rendered dry by the action of heat. When the cutlets are ready take a fifth part of the potatoes so prepared, and flattened with a knife upon a mixing-board to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and roll in this one of the cutlets, leaving the bone bare as a handle. Envelope each of the cutlet^s in its blanket of potato prepared in this way, and when this is done lay all of them upon a baking-tin, lightly greased, brush them ^over with a little milk or egg, and brown them in a very quick oven. While they are browning. Stir into the frying-pan the butter, place it over the fire, and add thereto the flour, when the cold water should be put in and all stirred until boiling. Put then with this the catsup, Worcestershire sauce and caramel, and allow the whole to cook for two minutes. Arrange the cutlets now in a circle upon a hot platter, fill into the centre a pint of boiled green peas, and pour the brown sauce around the whole through a strainer to keep out the vegetables that have been used to flavor it. Notes. — In preparing the potato envelope, a little flour should be sprinkled over the board to prevent sticking. If the oven should not, by any accident, be hot enough to brovrn the cutlets quickly, this may be done by holding over them a heated fire shovel, as leaving them long in the oven dries out the potatoes and so spoils the dishi The sauce is made in the fryiiig-pan in preference to a fresh one in order that it may partake of both the flavor of the vegetables and of the juices of the meat, which adhere to the pan in the process of cookine, MUTTON SOUBISE. 53 Mutton Soubise. — Five mutton chops, three table- spoonfuls of bread crumbs, one egg, two Spanish onions, one ounce of flour, one-half pint of milk, one saltspoon- ful of salt, one-half saltspoonful of pepper, two ounces of butter, one ounce of clarified fat, two carrots, one turnip. First throw the onions into boiling water to draw out the greenness, and then allow them to stand in the soak over night. When ready to prepare the dish throw the onions again into boiling water, and let them boil in it for half an hour. Cut the carrot and turnip into small balls, with a French vegetable cutter and throw these also into boiling water, letting them boil for twenty minutes. Pre- pare the cutlets then by trimming the fat off and dipping them into a well beaten egg, when the bread crumbs should be put into a sheet of kitchen paper, seasoned with a little pepper and salt and the cutlets rolled from side to side therein until well covered. After the cutlets have been rolled thus in the bread crumbs the coating should be pressed on firmly and smoothly with the blade of a knife, and when the clarified fat has been heated in a frying-pan until the blue smoke arises from it, the cutlets should be dropped one by one therein, and cooked for seven minutes, turning them once in the pan while frying. While the cutlets are cooking the onions should be taken from the boiling water and chopped very finely. Put them then into a dry saucepan, and mix them to- gether with an ounce of flour, add by degrees the milk, pepper, and salt, when the saucepan must be placed over the fire and its' contents stirred until the milk boils. When boiling add the butter, letting all cook together for two minutes. The cutlets should now be arranged in a circle upon 54 M^A TS. a hot platter, the turnip and carrot filled into the centre, and the soubise poured around the whole. Ragout of Rabbit. — One rabbit, one-quarter of a pound of bacon, one teaspoonful of mixed dried herbs, six small mushrooms, one very small onion, one teaspoon-^ ful of salt, juice of one-half of a lemon, two ounces of flour, one tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce, one wineglass- ful of sherry, one gJU of stock. The rabbit must first lie for an hour in strong salt and water, after which it should be cut into convenient pieces and dried thoroughly in, a towel. The bacon should then be cut into, dice, apd putting it into a stew-pan and over a hot fire, fried until it is brown. Take out now the browned bacon and substitu- ting the pieces of rabbit there for, fry these also until brown, sprinkling in the flour as they cook which helps them to a fine color. While the meats are browning the mushrooms and onion should be chopped exceedingly fine — almost to a powder, and this sprinkled over the browned rabbit, also the salt, pepper and herbs. Stir all well together, ''then squeeze? over it the lemon-juice, adding also the Harvey's sauce, sherry, and, last of all the stpck. Cook slowly for one hour, stirring constantly mean- time; as the perfection of this preparation lies in preserv- ing its exceeding dryness without letting it bum. Note, — Only a young rabbit is suitable for this dish as an old one requires too long for the cooking. (The bacon is used for this preparation because of the fine flavor which it imputs, but butter may ,be substituted for it in cooking the ^bbit, if more convenieiit or desirable. BRAISED FILET OF VEAL. 55 Stewed Kidney. — One pair of ox-kidneys, one ounce of butter, one and one-half ounces of flour, one- half ounce of flour of rice, three gills of second stock, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one dessert spoonful of mushroom catsup, six drops of caramel. Begin by washing the kidneys thoroughly in cold water. Dry them well in a towel and cut into very thin slices. Prepare upon a plate the flour, pepper, and salt, into which dip each piece separately, and melting the but- ter in a frying pan, when the blue smoke arises, brown the kidney therein. As the pieces of kidney become brown remove them from the butter into a stew pan and when all are thus transferred, put the stock into the frying pan, and stir until it boils. When boiling pour the stock over the kidney in the stew-pan and let all cook over a very slow fire, for an hour and a half. At the end of this time put the flour of rice into a bowl, moisten it with the catsup, add the cara- mel, and pouring this into the stew-pan with the kidneys, cook all together for half an hour longer. Serve ii^ a cov- ered dish. I Braised filet of Veal.— Three pounds of filet of veal, one-quarter of a pound of fat bacon, one and one- half pints of stock, one carrot, one turnip, one head of celery, one teaspoonful of whole white pepper, one tea- spoonful of salt. Cut the bacon into thin strips about two inches in length and one-third of an inch in width. Place next the filet upon a board and with a sharp knife"\ake off the skin, then threading a larding needle with the bacon, lard the top of the filet with it as thickly as possible. When the veal is larded, cut the vegetables into small pieces and 56 M£A TS. put them into a braising, or ordinary copper stew-pan. Pour over them then the stock, add to this the pepper- corns and salt, and lay the filet upon the vegetables which should be pranged thickly enough, to lift the meat quite above the stock. Place the braising-pan now over a quick fire, and baste the filet constantly until the stock boils. Coyer the filet then with a sheet of greased kitchen paper, cut to the size pf the braising-pan, close the lid of the pan and place it in a quick oven, where it must remain for an hour and a quarter. While in the oven the lid of the pan and the paper covering should be raised and the filet basted at frequent intervals with the stock. At the expiration of the hour and a half, remove the filet to a hot platter and put the braising pan over a quick fire, until the stock is reduced to half the quantity, when it should be poured through ^ strainer around the meat and all hurried quickly to the table. NoTB. — The secret of successful larding lies in cutting the Strips of bacon long and taking a deefp, long stitch with the larding needle. MEATS.— FOURTH DIVISION. COLD-MEAT DISHES. Rissoles. — Three-quarters of a poiind of cold roast beef, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one teaspoon- ful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one saltspoon- f ul of grated nutmeg, one tablespoonful of milk, one egg, twelve ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, one tea- spoonful of baking-powder, one knd one-half gills of cold water, three ounces of vermicelli. Chop the cold meat very finely, the fat and lean to- CURRY. 57 gether, place it into a bowl with the pepper, nutmeg and nearly all of the salt and stir together with the milk. Put the flour now upon a mixing board, rub into it the butter, add the baking-powder and remaining salt, mixing all into a firm dough with the cold water. When the dough is mixed, knead and roll it out to about a quarter of an inch thickness, cut it then into rounds with a biscuit cut- ter, beat the egg until very light and brush the edges of the rounds with it. Put now into the centre of these rounds as much of the minced meat, as the crust can be made to cover, gather up the edges of the dough over the meat, and pinch them firmly together. When the rounds are all filled, roll them separately into the beaten egg, crush the vermicelli to a powder, put it upon a sheet of kitchen paper and roll the rissoles by turns in this, until thoroughly blanketed with the powder. Cook now in hot clarified fat for five minutes, putting in only a part of the rissoles at a time as the fat will be too much cooled by plunging all in at once. When taken from the fat, drain the rissoles upon a clean piece of kitchen paper, and serve them in a hot napkin, garnishing with sprigs of parsley. Note — When clarified fat or lard is used for frying, care must be taken that what is used for fish and sweets be kept distinctly. OuiTy. — Three-quarters of a pound of cold mutton, two ounces of butter, one onion, one-half ounce of flour, one dessert spoonful of Curry powder, one apple, one^ half pint of second stock, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Melt first the butter in a saucepan and brown in it to 58 MEATS. a very^rale brown the sliced onion. Stir into this the curry-powder and flour, and when all is thoroughly mixed, add to the mixture by degrees the stock. Stir now carefully until boiling and when this point is reached, grate the apple, and add it also. Put on then the lid of the saucepan and allow all to simmer slowly for ten minutes, in the meantime cut the mutton into slices, drop it slice by slice into this boiling sauce, and allow it to cook just long enough to heat the meat through when the saucepan must at once be removed from the fire, and the preparation served. Note. — The great fault ia preparing cold meats for a second serv- ing, lies in losing sight of the fact that the meat is already cooked to a turn, and allowing it to remain too long exposed to the drying and toughening action of heat in the second preparation. Cold boiled mutton with tomato sauce. — Three-quarters of a pound of cold mutton, one pint of cold stewed tomatoes, two ounces of butter, one-half ounce of flour, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar, one grain of cayenne, one gill of second stock. First cut the mutton into slices, place them neatly into the bottom of a flat vegetable dish, and season each piece lightly with the salt, pepper and cayenne. Melt then the butter and make it hot, when half should be poured over the meat and into what remains stir the flour, adding to it when smooth, the stock. When this mixture boils add to it the sugar, the remainder of the seasoning and the tomatoes, and let all cook for two minutes that the tomatoes may become very hot, when the sauce should be poured over the mutton and the whole covered' tightly until taken to the table. Cornish pasties. ^g Notes. — It should be remembered that all highly seasoned dishes, particularly those in which pepper predominates, should be served very hot. When cold tomatoes are not in the larder, either fresh or canned ones may be prepared for the above use. Corned-beef Hash. — One pound of chopped corned-beef, three-quarters of a pound of boiled potatoes, two ounces of butter, one gill of stock, one teaspoonful of pepper, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one Spanish onion. Before chopping the meat, trim away and remove all the skin and grizzle, that all substances likely to present hard lumps may be taken out. Chop then the potatoes, taking care that they do not become too fine or a mashed paste, and mix them together with the meat in the chopping bowl. Chop the onion then finely and brown it, to a pale brown in the butter. When brown, add to it the stock, and, when this is hot, the chopped corned-beef and pota- toes, season all with the pepper and salt, and stir over the fire until very hot. Serve this hash banked up in a hot vegetable dish with a piece of butter let into a hole made by the print of a spoon bowl in the top. Notes. — Cold roast beef may also be used in this way, and pieces of cold beef stealc as well, and a delicious, juicy bash can be made after this method for those who enjoy rare meats by substituting raw steak, minced for the cold cooked meats. Potatoes are best for this use that are a little underdone as when hard they mince without mashing and so retain their character. Cornish Pasties.— Three-quarters of a pound of cold beefsteak, one-half pound of raw potatoes, one Span- ish onion, one teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, one pound of flour, four ounces of beef suet, one tea- spoonful of baking-powder, one-half pint of cold water. 6o MEATS. , Cover the potatoes, in a saucepan, with cold water and bring the water to the boiling point, and when this is reached take out the potatoes and cut them into small, square pieces. Put the pieces upon a plate and shred over them the onion, add to these the steak, which must also be cut into small square pieces, and sprinkle over all, the pepper arid nearly all of the salt. Toss these all now together with a fork, then place the suet upon a board and chop it very finely, mix well with it the flour, baking-powder and the remainder of the salt, and make these iiito a light dough with thfe cold water. Cut the dopgh then into six or eight pieces, roll each piece out round and to a quarter of an inch thickness, brush the edges of the rounds with a'little cold water, and put into each an equal part of the meat mixture. Gather up the edges of the crust and pinch them firmly together, brush each over with a little egg or milk, and bate them in a ijuick oven three-quarters of an hour. Shepherd's Pie. — One pound of cold roast beef, on,e Spanish onion, one and one-half ounces of butter, one- half ounce of flour, one pound of mashed potatoes, one tablespoonful of catsup, one-half gill of cold water, one teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt. Mince the meat very finely, and melt then in a sauce- pan half an ounce of the butter, throw into it the minced meat and brown it well, keeping the meat moving all of the time to prevent its lumping. While this is doing spirinkle the flour in by degrees both to help the browning and to thicken the composition. Add then the pepper, salt and water, and stir all until boiling when the onion must be sliced and put in. Draw the saucepan now to one side of the fire, in orde? that it may keep hot without SAVSAGe. ROLLS. 6l cooking, and taking another saucepan, melt in it the re- mainder of the butter, add to it the gill of milk and when this boils throw into it the mashed potatoes, and stir all together until the potatoes are very hot. Place then into a vegetable dish a layer of the pota- toes, add the catsup to the minced meat and cover the potatoes with a layer of it, and so alternating the meat and potatoes, fill all into the dish leaving a last layer of potato at the top. When this is done dip a knife into milk and smooth this top covering with the blade of it, and place it in a moderate oven for half an hour to bake, watching that the potatoes at the top brown handsomely. Note. — Veal, mutton oi cold beefsteak, may be used for this pie ,as well as the roast-beef. ' Sausage Rolls. — One-half pound of cold pork, four leaves of sage, and one-half teaspoonful of pepper,' one grain of cayenne, twelve ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, one egg, one and ofie-half gills of cold water, one teaspoonful of baking-powder, one teaspoonful of salt. The pork must be chopped very finely, also the sage leaves which are to be well mixed with the meat. Season this with the "pepper, half of the salt, and the cayenne. Put now the flour upon a mixing board, and rub into it the butter, add to it the baking-powder and remaining salt and making a little well in the centre of this mixture^ drop into it the yolk of egg, pour over it the water, knead all lightly together, and roll the dough so formed out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch.. Cut this paste into pieces four inches Jong, and three wide, beat the white of egg slightly, and brush the edges of the paste with it. Put now into each of these pieces a portion of the 62 M^-^ "fS. chopped pork, gather together the edges of the crust around it, and pinch them firmly together. Brush each one over with a little of the egg, place them into a lightly floured baking-tin, and put them to bake in a hot oven, for half an hour. Veal Balls. — One-half a pound of cold veal, eight tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of mixed dried herbs, one-half teaspoonful of pepper,, one teaspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, two eggs. Put six tablespoonfuls of the bread crumbs into a bowl, and chopping the veal finely, mix it therewith. Season this with the pepper and salt, adding the nutmeg, also the parsley and herbs, after which the whole must be thoroughly mixed together. To give this consistency drop in the yolks of the two eggs, saving the whites sep- arate upon a plate. Roll the mixture now into small balls, using an ounce of flour upon the hands to prevent sticking. Beat the whites of the eggs then slightly, roll the balls therein, and placing the remaining bread crumbs in a paper roll them also in it. Throw them now into smoking clarified fat for four minutes, when they should be taken out and put to drain on kitchen paper, after which pile in orderly man- ner upon a hot napkin for serving. Cold ttirkey -nrith white sauce.— One-half pound of cold turkey, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one-half teaspoonful of white pepper, one-half tea- spoonful of salt, one-half pint of milk, one gill of cream, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg. The turkey must first be boned, the skin having been removed, and the fragments then cut into small even MmCED CHICKEN WITH POTATO WALL 6% pieces. Melt in a copper or porcelain-lined saucepan the butter, mix well with it the flour and add by degrees the milk, stirring all until it boils. When boiling put in the cream, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, also the pieces of turkey taking great care not to break up the meat in the pro- cess, and let all simmer together very slowly until the turkey is heated through. Serve very hot on a small platter, with sippits of toast, or fried bread. Notes.— Cold veal or chicken may also be used in this way. A copper or porcelain-lined saucepan should always be used in the preparation of white meats, as anything but a very bright vessel, is sure to cause them to discolor. Minced chicken with potato wall. — Three quarter pounds of cold chicken, two ounces of butter, one-half ounce of flour, one tablespoonful of Worcester- shire sauce, one-half gill of second stock, six drops of caramel, one pound of potatoes, one tablespoonful of cream, one egg, one- half tea spoonful of salt, one-half tea- spoonful of pepper. Begin with chopping the cold chicken very fine. Melt then in a saucepan, one ounce of the butter and when this is hot put into it the cold chicken and brown thoroughly. Add to this the flour and the stock, stirring all until it boils, when it must be seasoned with the pepper, and sialt> the Worcestershire sauce and caramel thrown in, and then covering the saucepan draw it aside from the fire that it may keep an even heat but not cook. The potatoes must now be boiled and rubbed through a wire-sieve while hot, afid when so floured return them to the saucepan, add the cream, the remainder of the but- 64, ^'^^ ^^■ ter and the egg, and stir all well over the fire until the butter is melted, and the egg dry. Arrange the potato mixture then in a circle upon a hot platter leaving a round hole in the centre, smooth it with a knife, and place in the centre the minced chicken and serve. \ Note. — If it is desired the potato wal) may be browned before the chicken is put in, but if this is done at all it must be done in a very hot oven, otherwise the potato will dry out and become tough and heavy. Cold meat shape. — One pound of cold meat, two ounces of maccaroni, one teacupful of bread crumbs, one ounce of butter, one egg, one tablespoonful of stock, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Chop the cold meat very finely, put it into a basin, ^hen done and season with the pepper and salt. Wash the maccaroni well in cold water and boil it for half an hour. Drain it then thoroughly and cut into inch lengths, when it must be mixed together with the chopped meat and bread crumbs, and separating the butter jnto small pieces mix that in also. Bind all now together with the egg and the stock, and when thoroughly mixed together, pack the mixture into a well greased basin or bowl and steam the contents for one hour. Notes. — The maccaroni must be pnt on the fir6 in cold water and boiled rapidly. By steaming it is meant that the bowl or basin, covered with a piece of kitchen paper, should be placed in a saucepan within which is sufficient water to reach half way up its sides and allowed thus to cook in its own steam. Any kind of cold meat except pork can be used for this preparation. BROILED fClUNEYS. , 65 Savory Hash. — Three quarters of a pound of cold meat, one Spanish onion, one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one dessert spoonful of catsup, one dessert spoon- ful of Harvey's sauce, one-half pint of second stock, one carrot, one turnip. Clean and chop fine both the carrot and turnip, when they must be put to boil in a small saucepan with boiling water until tender, which will take about twenty minutes. While these are cooking, melt the butter in a separate saucepan, brown in it the onion, sliced, then cutting into slices the cold meat roll them in the flour, and placing these slices in the butter with the onion brown them slightly also. Pour over 'this how the stock, the Harvey's sauce and catsup, stir all together gently until the stock boils and season with the pepper and the salt. When the pieces of meat have become thoroughly heated through, arrange them in a fiat dish and pour the gravy over. Strain the water carefully from the turnip and carrot, lest by after draining it impoverish the gravy, and pile them high upon the top of the pieces of meat when it is ready for serving. ' Notes. — Cold loast beef or cold beef steak is best for this dish, but any other cold meat may be used. [The weighing of the cold meats is given merely in order to fix proportions.] MEATS.— FIFTH DIVISION, BROILED AND FRIED. Broiled kidneys with Maitre d'Hotel but- ter. — Six sheep kidneys, two tablespoonfuls of bread (56 MeaT^. crumbs, three ounces of butter, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one dessert spoonful of chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of lemon-juice. The kidneys should first be washed and the thin outer skin torn entirely off of them. Separate them then through the back opposite the seam with a sharp knife, cutting them almost through in order that they may be spread out flatly, when, tnelting one ounce of the biitter each kidney shquld be dipped therein,"" a skewer passed through each leaf and the kidney straightened thereon, and sprinkling over each of them a little of the bread crumbs, put them upon a gridiron and broil over a very hot fire. While the kidneys are broiling put together the chopped parsley, lemon-juice and butter and rub ail to- gether with the. point of a knife blade. Take the kidneys when done quickly from the broiler, arrange them upon a dish of buttered toast, sprinkle over each a little pepper and salt, and place in the centre of each a little of the Maitre d'Hotel butter. Broiled Beefsteak.^One porter-house steak, two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, The steak should hang for one week in the ice-box before using, and before broiling place it upon a board and beat it with a round rolling pin sufficient to soften the fibre, without mutilating it or crushing out the juices. Put it then upon a gridiron and at first over the hottest part of the fire that the pores of the meat may be imme- diately closed, then turning constantly to prevent, burn- ing, broil from seven to. ten minutes according to the thickness of the steak, and when done, remove it from BROILED CHICKEN. 6? the iron to a very hot platter, put the butter in pieces over the top and press it in with the point of a knife blade, : sprinkle over all the pepper and salt, and serve in its own gravy, of which the butter will have drawn out sufficient from the steak without adding water. Note. — To this gravy may be added a tablespoonful of Worces- tershire sauce if desired. Mutton or lamb-chops may be broiled also in this way. Broiled Chicken.— One young fowl, two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. The fowl must first be split down the back, washed thoroughly, in and out, with cold-water and as thoroughly dried in a clean towel. Grease then slightly a broiler, season the chicken, inside and out, by rubbing on the pep- per and salt, and putting the fowl in it, place to broil over a strong, clear fire ; as soon as the juices begin to draw out, commence turning and turn constantly thereafter until the meat is done, which may be determined by run- ning a skewer into the breast and when this draws out easily the chicken will have been sufficiently cooked. Serve on buttered toast, distributing butter also in pieces over the fowl and send it to table very hot. Note. — Unless a very young spring chicken is used for broiling it will be better that the fowl should have a slight preparatory cook- ing by steaming which may be done by putting the chicken into the broiler and laying this over a baking pan of boiling water, then cov ering it with a plate, set all into the oven for about twenty minutes. If the broiling iire smokes in the least, throw upon it a handful of ■alt, which will at once clear it, and prevent the fowl tasting smoky. 68 ME A TS. Fork Satisages. — One pound of pork sausages, one and one-half pounds of raw potatoes, one tablespoon- ful of cream, one ounce of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Put the potatoes pared, into a saucepan, cover them with cold water, and bringing them quickly to the boiling point over a brisk fire, throw in the salt. Boil them now rapidly until they begin to break on the surfaces when they will be half cooked, and the water should be strained carefully off them, the saucepan closely covered, and drawn to the side of the fire, that they may finish epoking in their own steam. When a skewer will go into them readily, set the potatoes for a moment, with the saucepan uncovered, full over the fire, that the dampness of the steam may dry off, and while hot mash them finely, adding the cream, pepper and butter, after which again cover them closely in order that they may keep hot while the sausages are being prepared. Prick through the skin of the sausages now with a fork in various places that they may not burst with the steam that will be generated in them under the action of heat, and placing them in a cold frying pan, put them over a moderate fire, that the fat may draw out in which to cook them, and fry for ten minutes. Take up then the potatoes and fill them into the hot- . torn of a small hot platter, and smooth them down with ^ knife blade that has been dipped in milk, to a flat bed about an inch in thickness, and across this bed arrange the sausage lengths at regular intervals. Notes. — If the gravy from the pan is used at all it mnst be served by itself in a gravy boat. FRIED CHICKEN WITH CHIVES. 6g Liver and Bacon. — One-half pound of calf's liver, one-half pound of bacon, one-half ounce of flour, one- half pint of second stock, one dessert spoonful of mush- room catsup, six drops of caramel, one saltspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Having "been very carefully washed, the liver must be cut into thin slices and dried in a towel. Next slice the bacon thinly and cut off the rind, when it must be put into a frying pan, placed over a moderate fire, and cooked for five minutes, turning it once meantime. Take the bacon now from the pan, arrange it upon a hot platter and place in the warming oven to prevent its cooling. In the grease drawn from the bacon, put then the slices of liver and fry for ten minutes, turning, them once while frying. Remove the liver from the frying-pan to the platter containing the bacon, and stir into the pan the flour into which stir the stock also, when the flour has become well saturated with the grease and browned. Stir this mixture until it boils, when the catsup, pep- per, salt and caramel must be added, and the whole poured over the liver and bacon. Note. — Sheep's liver may be used for this dish, but when it is used it should be par-boiled before frying. Fried Chicken 'with Chives. — Onfe young fowl, two dozen chives, two ounces of flour, two ounces of but- ter, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of white pepper. First prepare the chives by cleaning and cutting the green tops into thin rings, throw them then into boiling water to soak for five minutes, and while they are soak- ^o ME A TS. ing, joint the chicken and wash it lightly in cold water. Season the flour with the pepper and salt, and dip into it each piece of the fowl, and throw them into hot clarified fat, letting them fry for ten minutes. While the fowl is frying remove the chives from the boiling water and dry them in a towel. Melt now in a frying pan the butter, and fry in it the chives taking care that they do not burn, then removing the joints of chicken from the fat, drain them for a moment upon a sheet of kitchen paper when they must be placed upon a hot platter and the chives distributed over them. MEATS— SIXTH DIVISION. GAME. Haunch of Venison. — ^ix pounds of venison, five ounces of butter, one-half pint of claret, one-half pint of cold water, one and One-half ounces of flour, six drops of caramel, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Coyer the venison with a double sheet of greased kitchen paper and secure it against slipping with a wrap- ping of twine. Place the meat in a roasting-pan, ' dis- tribute over it, upon the paper, two ounces of the butter in small pieces and putting the pan into a hot oven, roast the venison for one hour basting from time to time as the butter melts. At the end of this time cut the twine and, removing the paper, rub over the meat the remainder of the butter. Pour into the roasting-pan half of the claret and allow- ing the venison to remain in the oven three quarters of an JUGGED HARE. •j\ hour longer, basting it constantly with the wine and but- ter gravy. ^ Transfer the venison now to a hot platter and skim the top of the gravy remaining in the pan. Stir into the gravy when skimmed, the flour, and scrape down into it with a cooking spoon, all the brown juices that may have adhered to the pan. Add to this the remaining water and claret, season with the pepper and salt, and pouring the gravy then from the roasting pan into a small sauce- pan place this over the fire and bring its contents quickly to the boiling point, when dropping in the caramel, all should be stirred quickly together and the gravy be then poured, very hot, around the venison. Roast haunch of venison is usually served with an accompaniment of currant jelly. Jugged Hare. — One hare, two tablespoonfuls of flour, three ounces of butter, one Bermuda onion, six cloves, one-half pint of brown stock, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one dessert spoonful of mushroom catsup, one dessert spoonful of Worcester- shire sauce- When the hare is caught, skin and clean it, dip a towel in boiling water and wipe it carefully over to remove the loose hairs. Dry the animal then thoroughly and cut it into convenient pieces. Put the flour upon a plate and roll each piece of meat until entirely covered in this. Melt in a frying pan the butter and placing the pieces of hare into it fry each one until brown upon both sides. Place now in a stone jug or jar, the stock, catsup and Worcestershire sauce, season these with the pepper and sjilt and then pack the pieces of hare with this niixtur? 72 MEA TS. into the jug. Cover the jug to confine the steam and placing it in a large saucepan of boiling water, let it cook therein for three hours. While the hare is being jugged a large platter should be covered with a flaky crust — see page 183 and this baked in the oven half an hour, and when the hare is done the pieces thereof should be taken \from the jug and placed upon the prepared platter, and such gravy as may have gathered in the jug be poured over all. Note; — If a stone jug be not available for this use, a stone jar of suitable size may be substituted. Roast Pheasant. — One pair of pheasants, one- quarter of a pound of, butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one- half teaspoonful of pepper, six tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. When the pheasants have been plucked, singed and drawn, chop off the claws and dip them into boiling water in order that the skin may be pulled easily from them. Which dp. Twist then the point of the wings behind the neck, pass a skewer through them at the first joint piercing the top of both legs and straight through the body in the process to hold the birds in proper form for roasting and serving. Tie the legs together just above the claws, after which prepare the dressing by placing the bread crumbs into a bowl, together with the chopped patrsley, pepper arid salt, and knead all together with two ounces of the butter. Stuff the breast of each bird with this dressing, sew together the incision at the neck when this is done with a needle and piece of thread, and place the pheasants side by side in a coasting pan, distribute the remaining butter ROAST GROUSE. n in small pieces over the breast of each; and putting the pan in a moderate oven, roast the birds therein for an hour and a half, basting them constantly with the butter as it melts. Serve the pheasants upon a hot platter and with bread and brown sauce sent to the table in separate gravy boats. Note. — Bread and brown sauces, see p^es 165-166. Partridge Pie. — One brace of partridge, one pound of filet of veal, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, three gills of brown stock, four ounces of butter, one dessert spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper. Pluck, draw and singe the partridges after which split each in halves. Put into each half a piece of butter, sprinkling them also with a little pepper and salt Place then in the bottom of a deep pie dish the filet of veal, sprinkle over it the chopped parsjey and putting the halves of partridge upon this, line the edge of the dish with a strip of puff paste, — seepage 182, pour over all the' stock, and cover over all a blanket of the paste rolled to half an inch in thickness. Bake the pie in a quick oven for an hour and a half. Note. — If desired half a pound of lean bacon may be placed upon the veal as a flavoring ingredient. Roast Grouse. — Two brace of grouse, one-half pound of butter, one dessert spoonful of salt, one tea- spoonful of pepper. The birds should hang in a cool place at least three days after being shot, when they should be plucked, singed and drawn, and wiped outside and inside with a cle^n cloth- 74 ME A TS. Sprinkle them each then thoroughly inside with the pepper, divide the butter into four equal parts and place one of these inside each as well. Place the birds then side by side in a baking pan and putting this into a quick oven, let all bake for half an hour. When the grouse are roasted, arrange some slices of buttered toast upon a platter, place the birds upon these, and pouring over them the gravy from the pan serve very hot. Bread sauce should be served with roast birds. See page 165. Canvass-back Duck. — ^One pair of canvass-back duck, one-quarter of a pound of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Carefully pluck, draw and singe the fowls, wash them slightly, and dry them in and outside with a' towel. Sprinkle inside of each the pepper and salt, sp^read the butter well over the breasts, and placing them side by side upon a dripping pan, bake in a very quick hot oven fifteen minutes. The blood should follow the knife when carved, if the^uck be properly cooked. Cut into slices some cold boiled hominy, fry them to a light brown in butter, and arranging these upon a plat- ter serve the fowl upon this with an accompaniment of currant jelly. Reed Birds. — Six reed birds, one-half pound of fat bacon, one dessert spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper. When the birds are plucked, singed and drawn they should be carefully cleansed inside and out with a dry towel. Cut the bacon then into very thin slices and folding SQVABS WITH GREEN PHAS. 75 one of these slices over the breast of each bird, securing it there Vith a wrapping of twine, string the birds upon a spit with the breasts all turned the same way and broil over an open fire for twenty minutes. Serve upon a hot platter garnished with fresh sprigs of parsley or with water-cresses. Woodcock on Toast, — Two brace of woodcock, four ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one tea- spoonful of pepper. When plucked and singed the woodcock should be drawn, cutting out the neck, but leaving the head which must be drawn around and the long bill passed through the legs, wings and body as a trussing skewer. Season each by rubbing a little pepper and salt inside, string them upon a spit, rub over each breast a portion of the butter, and broil the birds over an open fire for twenty minutes. The livers should now be boiled for five minutes, pounded in a mortar or chopped very finely, and this paste being spread over two slices of butter toast, the toast should be placed upon a hot platter and the woodcock served thereon. Note. — Quail, snipe and larks may be served and prepared as pTcsciibed for woodcock. Squabs -with G-reen Peas. — One pair of squabs, one pint of shelled green peas, two ounces of butter, one gill of stock, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. , Pluck, singe, draw and wash the pigeons slightly in cold water. Twist the tips of the wings behind the shoulders and threading a trussing-needle with fine twine, 76 MEATS. pierce with it the first joint of the wings, passing "through the upper portion of the legs and straight through the body in doing so. Return the needle then through the tips of the wings, piercing through the skin of the neck in passing and bringing the twine thus to its point of departure, draw it taut and tie the ends firmly together. The claws should now be chopped oflF and crossing the legs tie them, neatly together, after which melt in a stewing pan two ounces of butter and when the smoke arises there- from, put the pigeons into it breast downwards, and allow them to cook slowly for one hour, turning them from time to time, to prevent burning and in order that they may brown evenly. At the end of th0 hour the butter in which the squabs have cooked must be drained off, and the stock poured over them in which they must be allowed to cook for five minutes. Put then in with the squabs the peas, season them with the salt and pepper, and let all cook veiy slowly for twenty additional minutes. At the end of this time remove the pigeons from the stewing pan, cut and draw out the 'trussing strings, and arranging the birds lipon a hot platter, pour the peas and the reduced stock around them. Serve very hot. Stewed Wild Pigeons. — Four wild pigeons, one quart of stock, one ounce of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, six cloves, one blade of mace, one Bermuda onion, one-half teaspoonful of peppercorns, one tablespoonful of mushroom caisup, eight drops of caramel. When the pigeons have been plucked, singed and drawn they must be cut into quarters, first splitting them. KROMESQUtES RUSSB. 77 through from breast to back, and then separating these halves into wing and drumstick quarters. Place these quarters into a stew pan, cover them with the stock and when this boils up skim the surface care- fully, throw in the mace, peppercorns, cloves, chopped onion and salt, when covering the saucepan draw it to one side of the fire and allow its contents to simmer very slowly until the pigeons become tender, the length of time for which depends entirely upon their age. Put the flour now into a bowl, beat it smooth with a little cold water, add to this the catsup and caramel, and pouring this mixture into the saucepan with the pigeons stir all together until boiling again, when it must continue to boil for ten minutes and the pigeons then be trans- ferred to a deep platter and the sauce from the saucepan strained over them. ENTREMETS. E[romesquies Russe. — One-quarter of a pound of raw bacon, one quarter of a pound of cold turkey, two ounces of cold tongue, one ounce of butter, four ounces of flour, one gill of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one dessert spoonful of salad oil, one gill of tepid water, white of one egg. Cut the turkey and the tongue into small equal pieces, melt in a saucepan the butter, stir into it one ounce of the flour, and add to this by degrees the milk and Stir all until boiling. When boiling, allow the mixture to cook for two minutes, when the saucepan must be drawn aside from the fire, and the turkey and tongue thrown into it. 78 ENTREMETS. Season all now with the pepper and salt, add to it the nutmeg, and turn the entire contents of the saucepan out upon a plate and allow it to become cold. While this is cooling put into a bowl three ounces of the flour, pour into the centre thereof a dessert spoonful of salad oil, and throwing over this the gill of tepid water, beat all well together. Place upon a plate the white of egg and whip it to a very stiff froth, mix the egg lightly with the coi|tents of the bowl, exercising care not to break the froth, after which the bacon must be sliced very thinly and cut into pieces about three inches square. When the turkey and tongue compound has grown very cold roll a little of it into each piece of bacon, then dipping each little bacon-roll into the batter in the bowl, drop them into hot clarified fat of which there should be enough to cover them, and fry for five minutes. Drain them when done upon a sheet of kitchen paper pile them high upon a hot napkin and serve garnished with sprigs of parsl.ey^ Notes — By tepid water is meant two part of cold and pne part of boiling water. When bot clari6ed fat is not convenient lard may be substituted for this as for other frying purposes. Onxxy with boiled rice^— Two pounds of yeal, two ounces of bjitter, one Bermuda onion, two dessert spoonfuls of curry-powder, one apple, three gills of stock, two tablespoonfuls of cream, one-half of a lemon, one-half teaspoonful of salt. \ First melt the butter in a small saucepan and add to it the onion very finely chopped. With an iron spoon toss cVrr y iviTJi BoiLMb kick. 75 the onion about in the pan until it comes to a pale brown color, then strain from it the butter, and put the onion aside upon a plate until it is required. Return the butter to the saucepan and wheijt again hot throw into it the veal which first must have been cut into small square pieces. Brown the meat well upon all sides and when this is done, stir in the curry-powder, and draw the saucepan aside from the fire. Dry then in a towel the appl© and grate it with a car- rot-grater over the veal in the sauce-pan. Return the saucepan to the fire, add to its contents the salt and the stock, stir all until boiling and then put in the browned onion. After the onion has been thrown in draw the saucepan again aside from the blaze of the fire and leave all to sim- mer, uncovered, for two hours for the purpose of reduc- ing the sauce. Just before ready for serving, stir in the cream, squeeze over it the lemon-juice and dish up at once. This should be served with boiled rice which must be prepared as follows : Take three;-quarters of a pound of dry rice, and put- ting it into a strainer, wash thoroughly with running water. When washed throw the rice into a large sauce- pan two-thirds filled with boiling water, into which has been put a dessert spoonful of salt. Cover the saucepan tightly until the water boils up, when the lid should be taken off and the rice left to boil very rapidly for fifteen minutes. At the end of fifteen minutes, take out of the pan a kernel of the rice and if it flours by rubbing between the thumb and finger, it is sufficiently cooked but if not yet done— the length of time required depending upon go ENTREMETS. whether the grain be or be not freshly gathered, it must bei kept boiling a few minutes longer, keeping in mind the fact that rice musi be boiled quickly^ otherwise it will/be transformed into a starchy jelly. . Throw the rice when done into a cullender that it may be thoroughly drained of water and serve very hot with the. curry, but in separate dishes. V Notes. — The reason for browning the onion separately from the meat is that the veal requires so much longer time to brown than the onion that the vegetable would be reduced to a crisp before the meat could be done. , Lean mutton, rabbit and chicken may also be curried in this way. Rissoles of Veal.— One pound of filet of veal, one quarter of pound of suet, one pound of bread crumbs, , onerhalf pint of milk, two eggs, one saltspoonful of pow- dered maccj one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one ounce of butter, one-half ounce of flour, one-half pint of white stock. Remove the skin from the veal, chop it very finely' after which pound it weir in a mortar. Put into a bowl three-quarters of a pound of the bread crumbs, pour the milk oyer, and allow the crumbs to soak therein for ten minutes, then pouring the bread crumbs from the bowl into a towel, twist the ends of the towel in the hands and press from them as much of the milk as may be. Mix the bread crumbs with the pounded veal, season the mixture with the mace, pepper and nearly all o^ the salt, drop into it then the yolks of egg, and beat all to- gether with the finely chopped suet. < Roll the compound then into small balls, dipping each into the beaten whites of egg, and then into the remain' BEEF OLIVES. 8t ing bread crumbs, after which they must be thrown into hot clarified fat and fried for ten minutes. While the rissoles are frying, melt , the butter in a small saucepan, stir into it the flour, then, add ,by degrees the stock, stirring all until it boils, when it must be sea- soned with the salt and allowed to cook for two minutes. Drain the rissoles when fried upon a sheet of kitchen paper, and serve upon a hot platter with the sauce poured around. Beef Olives. — One and one-half pounds' of round steak, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one dessert spoonful of parsley, one egg, one ounce of butter, one dessert spoonful of mushroom catsup, one dessert spoon- ful of Harvey's sauce, one-half ounce of flour, six drops of caramel, one-half pint of second stock, one teaspoon- ful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Put the sprigs of parsley into cold water, wash it well, picking the stalk from it, and then dry thoroughly by wrapping it in a towel and wringing the water therefrom. Place it upon a board, chop very finely, and mix with it the bread crumbs. Drop into this the egg, seasoning all with the pepper and salt, and mix the whole well to- gether. The fat must now be trimmed from the steak and cut into little pieces, and the steak itself cut into squares, four inches in size. \ Into each of the pieces of steak, put an equal part of the fat and bread crumb dressing, make them into rolls and tie around them a piece of twine. Heat the butter now in a saucepan, and brown the rolls therein. While the rolls are browning, put the flour into a 82 ENTREMETS. bowl and make it smooth with a tablespoonful of stock, and when smooth add to it the catsup, caramel and Har- vey's sauce, after which the remaining stock should be put in cold, and pour all over the browned olive-rolls, stirring until the liquid boils. When boiling, skim, and then covering the saucepan, allow the whole to simmer slowly for an hour and a half. At the end of this time take up the olives, and cutting the strings therefrom, pour over them the gravy from the pan. Fricassee of S'weet-Breads.— one pair of sweet-breads, two ounces of butter, one-half ounce of flour, one egg, two tablespoonful^ of cream, one teacup- ful of white stock, one dessert spoonful of chopped pars- ley, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one-half teaspoon- ful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Let the sweet-breads lie for an hour in iced water preparatory to cooking, at the end of which they should be put iiito a saucepan, covered with cold water aud placed over tlje fire where, when boiling, they should be left for five minutes. Take them then from the fire and throw them into a basin of cold water to whiten, after which draw off the outer casing, and cut them into thin slices. Melt in a saucepan the butter, stir into it the flour and add the stock, when all must be stirred until it boils. Put into this the sliced sweet-breads, season all with the pepper and salt, addii^g the nutmeg, and cover- ing the saucepan, let the whole simmer slowly for three- quarters of an hour. Just before the sweet-bteads are ready for serving, beat up the egg until very light, mix well with it the LARDED SWEET-BREADS. 83 cream and chopped parsley, and moving the saucepan off the fire, stir this mixture in with the sweet-breads, and stir all together for two minutes, taking care that it does not boil. This should be served immediately and very hot, that the eggs may not get heavy. Larded Sweet-breads. — One pair of sweet- breads, two ounces of fat bacon, one-half pint of stock, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonf ul of pepper, one lemon, four drops of caramel, one-half ounce of flour. The sweet-breads must be first thrown into boiling water, boiled for five minutes and then put into iced water for half an hour. Cut the bacon into thin strips two inches long and one- third of an inch in thickness, and when the sweet-breads have been taken from the water and dried thoroughly in a towel, thread the strips of bacon into a larding needle and lard the sweet-breads thickly, making a deep, long stitch as the flesh of the sweet-bread is so apt to break. When larded, place the sweet-bread into a stewing-pan and 'pour over it the stock, boiling hot. Cook them slowly for half an hour, when they must be put into a slightly greased baking tin, set into a hot oven, and baked for fifteen minutes. While the sweet-breads are cooking, stir into the stock in the saucepan half an ounce of the flour, add to it the caramel, aud let all cook for two minutes, when it should be seasoned with the pepper and salt. When the sweet-breads have baked the fifteen minutes, take them from the oven and putting them upon a small, hot platter, pour around them the sauce from the pan and gamiih with the lemon, sliced. 84 ENTREMETS. Vol-au-Vent of Sweet-breads. — Six ounces of flour, six ounces of butter, yolk of one egg, one teaspoon- ful of lemon-juice, one-half gill of cold water, one gill of milk, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one-half saltspoonful of pepper, one grain of cayenne, one pair of sweet-breads. First put the flour upon a. mixing board, make a little well in the centre thereof, and drop into it the egg and half of the lemon-juice, adding by degrees the cold water, kneading all meantime firmly together and when kneaded, roll out thinly. Into the centre of the rolled paste put five ounces of the butter, fold the edges together until the butter is covered, and, flouring a rolling-pin, roll out as thinly as possible. Fold the crust now into three layers and roll out again and ,repeat this process of folding and rolling seven times, when it should be put into the ice-box and left long enough to become chilled through and firm. Take the sweet-breads, first thoroughly washing them, and putting them into a saucepan, cover with cold water and bringing the water to the boiling point; allow them to boil in it for five minutes, when they should be again thrown into cold water, rewashed, and cut into small , pieces. Now put the butter and milk into a saucepan over the fire and when the milk boils, put into the pan also the pieces of sweet-bread, season them with the cayenne pep- per and salt, and let all simmer slowly for three-quarters'' of an hour. When the crust has become cool ^nd firm in the ice- box, take it out and placing it upon the mixing board roll it out to about a third of an inch in thickness. Cut out tyro yol-au-vent with the vol-au-vent cutter, or a biscuft CHA UD-FROID OF CHICKEN. 8S cutter if the first be not convenient, cut in each a smaller circle, about one inch from the edges, half way through the crust, and placing both upon a baking tin, bake in a hot quick oven for twenty minutes. When done remove the crust from the inner circle by slipping in a knife-blade and splitting it asunder, scrape out the centre of the vol-au-vent in order to make a hol- low in which to pack the sweet-breads, put into each equal parts of the sweet-bread, sprinkle over the meat the re- mainder of the lemon-juice, cover over it the little baked circle previously split out, garnish with fresh sprigs of parsley and send to table in a hot napkin. Notes — The difficulty in making the vol-au-vent paste lies in its becoming heated in rolling and the butter, which is used in excessive proportion, running in consequence. This may be prevented by put- ting it to cool between rollings and taking a little longer time for its preparation. It is really pufif-paste that is used for the vol-au-vent and the crust should rise in baking at least three inches. Chaud-froid of Chicken. — One young fowl, two ounces of butter, two ounces of flour, one-half pint of milk, one gill of cream, one saltspoonful of salt, one salt- spoonful of white pepper, one quart of second stock, one-half ounce of gelatine, one tablespoonful of vinegar, one sprig of parsley, one gill of cold water, whites cif three eggs, one-half teaspoonful of black pepper. This dish requires two days for its preparation, and therefore its use must be anticipated. Melt first the gelatine in half of the cold water, and let it stand for ten minutes ; put then the stock into a copper or porcelain-lined saucepan, add to it the vinegar, parsley 86 ENTREMETS. black pepper and half of the salt, place it over the fire, and when tepid put into it the gelatine. Beat the whites of the eggs well in a bowl, with which mix the remainder of the cold water, pour this into the stock and whisk all together until the stock boils, using either two forks or an egg-whisk. The instant the stock boils, cover the saucepan and draw it aside from the fire, let it simmer here slowly for twenty minutes, when it should be strained into a basin through a clean towel. Let this preparation stand over night, as it will not cool through and set in shorter time. Clean and wash also the fowl, then plunging it into boiling water, let it cook until a skewer will pierce easily into the breast, when it must be immediately taken out, and it also allowed to stand over night to become thor- oughly cooled. Having prepared the material in the above manner, upon the day the chaud-froid is to be used, cut first the wings and legs from the fowl and trim them neatly ; cut also two filets from the breast, taking care not to break the crisp grain of the meat. Melt now in a porcelain- lined or copper saucepan the butter, stir into it the flour, add by, degrees the milk and stir all until boiling, when the mixture must be seasoned with the white pepper and ^ salt, the cream added and stirred carefully until it has boiled for two minutes. Take the saucepan from the fire and put with its con- tents a dessert spoonful of the cold jelly, draw the skin off the pieces of fowl and dip them into this sauce, when they are to be placed in a sieve and left about thirty minutea to cool, CHICKSN CROQUETTES. %y When the sauce is quite cold upon the pieces of fowl, arrange them neatly into the bottom of a flat dish, chop roughly the jelly and scatter it around and garnish the dish either with fresh sprigs of parsley, or with parsley finely chopped and sprinkled over. Notes — Small pieces of cold turkey may be made up in this way, into a most delicious entree. A leek or onion may be used to flavor the sauce, being put in, if used, with the parsley. Chicken Croquettes. — One-half of a cold chicken, six mushrooms, one gill of stock, two tablespoonsfuls of cream, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoOnful of pepper, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, two eggs, six tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour. The skin must first be taken from the cold chicken and the bones removed, when the meat should be chopped very finely, and the mushrooms, having been also well washed and chopped, must be mixed therewith. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir into it the flour, add by degrees the stock, stirring until it boils and then put into it the cream. Season with the pepper and salt, flavor with the nutmeg, and let all cook briskly for two minutes. When this has cooked, remove the sauce^ pan from the fire, stir into it the chopped chicken and mushrooms, and pour all out upon a plate to cool. When quite cold separate into equal parts, and form the compound with the hands to something near the shape of a pear, beat the eggs well upon a plate, roll each cro- quette therein, and placing the bread crumbs upon paper, roll each also in this, and throwing them into hot clari- fied, fat, fry for two minutes. 88 ENTREMETS. When done take them from the fat, drain upon a piece of paper, and if the pear-shapes are a success, thrust into the small end of each a clipping of parsley stalk, for the purpose of increasing the similitude by fur- nishing stems. Quinelles of Veal. — One pound of filet of veal, two ounces of butter, two ounces of flour, one-half pint of second stock, two eggs, one gill of cream, one tea spoonful of lemon juice, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one- half teaspdonful of white pepper. Mix together in a saucepan one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour, add to these one gill of stock, and ' stirring all until boiling, let it boil for two minutes there- after. Turn out this mixture after thie two minutes upon a plate, and let it get cold. ] While this is cooling, put the veal upon a board, and removing the outer skin, chop it very finely* after which put into a mortar and pound thoroughly, when it must be rubbed through a wire sieve, which will bring the meat to the smoothness of a paste. Then put into the mortar the cooled mixture from the plate, drop into it one egg, pound these well to- gether, add then the veal and the. remaining egg, and seasoning all with half of the salt and pepper, use again the pestle until all of these ingredients become smoothly blended. Grease now a saut6 or perfectly fresh frying pan, prepare two dessert spoons by dipping them into boiling water, and taking one in the right hand and the other in the left, dip into the mortar the right hand spoon, filling it with the paste, and, with the left hand spoon scoop the mixture from the one to the other, forming thus the GRENADiNBS OF VEAL. 89 quinelles, when they must be put into the sautfe-pan carefully, that they may not lose their shape, and when the pan is so filled, pour in at the side as much boiling water as will cover the quinelles, when they should be placed over a slow fire and allowed to poach for ten minutes. Now melt in a small saucepan the remaining ounde of butter, stir into it the remaining ounce of flour, add by degrees a gill of stock and let all boil up. When boiling, pour in the cream, season With pepper and salt, and taking it from the fire, add then the lemon-juice. Arrange the quinelles when done, and taken from the water, in a circle upon a flat dish, and pour the sauce around them. Note — ^When a mortar and pestle are not available, the veal may be first cooked a little in boiling stock, and then chopped as finely as possible, before being passed through the sieve. Grenadines of Veal. — Two pounds of filet of veal, one carrot, one turnip, one head of celery, one pint of white stock, six ounces of fat bacon, one teaspoonful of whole white pepper, one-half teaspoonful of salt. Removing the skin from the veal, cut it into shapely oval pieces about half an inch in thickness. Cut the bacon into thin strips two inches long and one-third of an inch wide, and threading a larding needle ivith the bacon, lard the ovals of veal as thickly as possible with it. Place in a saucepan the vegetables cut in small pieces, over which sprinkle the pepper and salt, and pouring in around the vegetables the stock, bring all to the boiling point. 90 ENTREMETS. When the stock boils, place upon the vegetables the ovals of veal, taking care that they do not overlap one another, and covering the saucepan, closely draw it aside from the fire and allow the contents to cook slowly for three-quarters of an hour, basting occasionally meantime with the stock. Take the grenadines now from the saucepan, place them upon a slightly greased baking-tin and brown them in a quick oven. While the gfcenadines are browning, put the saucepan again over the fire, uncovered, and let the stock reduce as fast as possible. When all is done, arrange the grenadines tastefully in a flat vegetable dish and pour through a strainer over them as sauce, the vegetable flavored stock. Talleyrand Outlets.— Two pounds of filet of veal> three ounces of butter, one dessert spoonful of chopped parsley, one-half dozen of mushrooms, one eschalot, one- half ounpe of flour, yolks of two eggs, one tablespoonful of cream, one-balf teaspoonful of salt, one-halif teaspoon- ful of pepper, one-half pint of white stock. Cut the veal into small equal o^als and place them in a saut^ or very clean frying pan together with two ounces of butter. Over a slow fire cook the meat for five minutes in order to whiten it, being careful to turn the pieces and not to let the butter brown. Draw the pan then from the fire and sprinkle over the meat the chopped parsley, the mushrooms and eschalot which muist also have been chopped, and melting in a separate saucepan the remaining ounce of butter, stir into it the flour, add by degrees the stock, and bring all to the boil, and the instant this is accomplished, poiir all over TIMBALES. 91 the veal in the sautiepan and leave all to cook for twenty minutes very slowly turning the meat and the saucepan constantly while cooking, to prevent the meat discoloring. Prepare now in a bowl the yolks of egg and cream, season this with the pepper and salt, when the veal should be taken from the saucepan and arranged upon a flat dish, and the cream and egg stirred into the saucepan with the sauce. The contents of the saucepan must not be allowed to boil after the yolks of egg are added but as soon as thef sauce thickens with them by simmering slowly, it must be poured over the veal. Timbales. — One-quarter of a pound of maccaroni, one-half pound of cold roast beef, four ounces of bread crumbs, one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of catsup, one tablespoonful of Worcester- shire sauce, two eggs, three gills of stock. The maccaroni must first be well washed in cold water then put into a saucepan, covered with cold water, put on the fire and boiled for fifteen minutes. Now grease twelve deep cup tins or ordinary teacups. When the maccaroni is boiled, drain the water from it, and drying it lightly in a towel, cut it intp inch lengths and arrange these lengths upon end in the cup tins. Chop the cold meat very finely and putting it into a bowl, mix with it the bread crumbs and season this with the pepper and salt, adding also a little of the Worcester- shire sauce and half of the catsup. Drop in upon this the egg together with a tablespoon- ful of the stock, and when the whole has been well mixed 92 ENTREMkTS.. together, separate it into equal quantities, put a portion into each of the cups and press it snugly down upon the maccaroni with the blade of a knife. Each tin or cup must be now covered with a small piece of kitchen paper and all placed in a shallow sauce- pan in which there is boiling water sufficient to reach half way up their sides, when the saucepan should be covered and the timbales allowed to cook very slowly for one hour, boiling water being added from time to time to keep the quantity the same. Five minutes before the hour expires the butter and flour must be mixed together in a small saucepan, to which add the. stock and when this mixture boils add the re- mainder of the catsup and the Worcestershire sauce, also the remainder of the pepper and salt, and allow all to cook for two minutes. When the timbales are done, turn them carefully out in regular order upon a large, deep platter, and pour the sauce around them, taking care not to spatter the tops. Notes — In using catsup, caution should be exercised in the use of salt, as all catsups are highly salted in preparation. Fresh beefsteak may also be used for this dish, with the difiFerence that uncooked meat will require a little more time over the fire. Filet of Beef, 'with sauce Hollandais.— One and one-half pounds of filet of, beef, one pound of pota- toes, yolks of two eggs, one tablespoonful of cold water, one tablespoonful of cream, one ounce of butter, one-half tablespoonful of lemon-juice, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one-half teaspoonful of salt. The filet must first be cut into slices nearly an inch in thickness, place them then upon a slightly greased grid- Cutlets A-LA-MARECHAL. g^ iron and boil over a clear fire for seven minutes, turning them constantly meantime. Take then a small tin saucepan, put into it the yolks of egg, pour over them the cold water, and whisk until wdl mixed, with two forks or an egg whisk. Add the cream, lemon-juice and butter, season with a very little of the pepper and salt, and place the saucepan either in a larger saucepan of boiling water, or over a very slow fire, and whisk the contents until the butter melts, and it rises to a froth. The slices of beef must now be arranged on a dish in a circle, the end of one piece being made to lap upon the other until the circle is complete^ when the sauce should be poured over, and the whole garnished with a sprink- ling of chopped parsley. / Around the meat there should be now placed a row of potato balls, which must be prepared in the following manner : Pare and wash the pound of potatoes, and cut from them with a French vegetable cutter, as many balls as the potatoes will furnish. Dry the balls well in a towel, and throw them into hot clarified fat or lard, for four minutes. When fried, drain them for a moment upon a piece of kitchen paper, and transfer them to the dish. Cutlets a.-la-]y[arechal. — Five mutton cutlets, one dessert spoonful of parsley, two ounces of veal, one saltspoonful of nutmeg, one tablespobnful of cream, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one-half dozen mushrooms, two tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one egg, two ounces of clarified fat. Chop the veal very finely, and pound it in a mortar 94 ENTREMETS. rub it when poundedj through a wire sieve, and add to it the chopped parsley,, season with a very little pepper and salt, and flavor with the nutmeg, and stir all to a con- sistency with! the cream. Take the cutlets and trim them neatly, leaving on a part of the fat, and roll them in the egg which must have been previously beaten. Put the bread crumbs into a paper, and seasoning them with the remainder of the pepper and salt, roll the cutlets in this also ; make hot in a frying pan the clari- fied fat, and when the smoke arises, put into it the cutlets, arid fry them for eight minutes, turning them once, and allowing four minutes. ' When fried take them from the fat, and Spread over each one an equal quantity of the veil mixture from the mortar, chop the mushrooms and sprinkle a little of this over each, and put them into a moderate oven and let them bake for ten minutes. Serve in a hot napkin garnished with sprigs of parsley. General Remarks. — Bermuda and Spanish is applied to onions in a descriptive sense. Bermuda signifying a small onion or of the •size of a Bermuda onion, and Spanish onion meaning a large onion or of the size of a Spanish onion, although if these especial growths of onions are to be conveniently procured, they will be found of su- perior quality to the ordinary. Specified quantities of salt are given in the foregoing recipes in order to preserve proportions, but the use of this seasoning may be governed by the respective palates of those for whom the dishes are prepared, keeping in mind that while more may be required by those who are excessively fond of salt, less is always safer, as to s^t a dish is easy, while to freshen one that is over salted and acrid therefrom, is generally impossible. Harvey's and Worcestershire sauce being nearly the samej may be SPINACH WtTti MGGS. 95 substituted for each other as convenience may require, but the result will be more satisfactory from using each as directed. The recipes throughout this work have been kept as nearly as pos- sible to quantities for serving four persons, using such surplusage as must necessarily occur in the proper cooking of joints, in the cold meat preparations. The etiquette of entries making one service to a person sufficient, the proportion of quantity has still been in a measure preserved, as these are generally served in odd numbers five, seven, nine, etc. VEGETABLES. Spinach with Eggs.— For this provide : four quarts of spinach, one tablespoonful of cream, one ounce of butter, four eggs, one teaspoonful of lemon- juice, one grain of cayenne, one dessert spoonful of salt, one salt spoonful of pepper. The spinach must be thoroughly washed through three or four waters and the stalks picked off. Put it when washed into a dry saucepan, sprinkle over it the salt, and covering the saucepan closely place it over the fire. The salt and heat together will draw from the spinach enough of its own green liquor in which to boil, and when it reaches the boUing point allow it to boil for ten minutes. At the end of this time remove the spinach to a cul- lender that it may drain entirely of its liquor and when drained it must either be very finely chopped or passed through a coarse wire sieve. Into a small saucepan put the butter and cream and place all over the fire until the cream boils, then stir in the spinach, and let the mixture get very 'hot but not boiling, as boiling will draw more liquor from the spinach and spoil the dish. gS VEGETABLMS. Season now with the cayenne and pepper and draw the saucepan aside from the fire to keep hot until the eggs are prepared. Fill a small saucepan with boiling water and into this put the lemon-juice. Break the egg into a cup and drop it into the saucepan, the water in which must continue to boil, and as soon as the form of the first egg sets, break and drop in the second in tjie same manner, which continue until the four eggs are in the saucepan, permitting each egg to remain about three minutes. When the eggs are done remove the spinach from its saucepan and pile it high in the centre of a vegetable dish, smoothing the edges around and the top with a knife blade, Take the eggs from the water with a skim- ming spoon, and arrange them upon the flat top of the spinach. This dish should be garnished for serving with cor- ners of fried bread or toast. NoTE.-^If lemon-juice is not convenient, a ft w drops 6f vinegar may be Used for poaching fhe eggs, but the flavor of it will always-be detected although it firms the egg quite as well as the lemon-juice which leaves no taste of itself with the egg. Cauliflower au Gratin. — Provide for this : one cauliflower, one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, one gill of cold water, two tablespoorjfuls of cream, three o'unces of grated Parmesan cheese, one grain of cayenne, one saltspoonful of white pepper, one tablespoonful of salt. A close firm head of cauliflower must be selected for this preparation and this must be first thrown into a basin of strongly salted water and left for twenty minutes in TOMA TO PAXCI. gj order that sand, grit or other foreign substances may be drawn out. Trim off the green leaves and cut the stalk squarely across about two inches below the flower, after which prepare a large saucepan by putting it over the fire, filling it two-thirds full of boiling water with a table- spoonful of salt. Into this saucepan put the cauliflower, the flower down- wards and covering it until the water boils up vigorously, when removing the saucepan cover, all should be allowed to boil rapidly for fifteen minutes. At the end of this time take the cauliflower from the water and placing it upon a gratin plate with the flower uppermost, wrap over it thickly but lightly a clean towel both to keep it hot and to absorb such moisture as may have remained in the top. Melt in a small saucepan the butter into which stir the flour, and add by degrees the cold water. When this boQs take it from the fire, add to it the cream and two ounces of the grated cheese. Season all with the cayenne and pepper, and removing the towel from the cauliflower pour this sauce over it. Sprinkle over the flower the remaining ounce of cheese and place all into a quick oven where the cheese upon the top must be allowed nicely to brown. .. ve immediately. Notes. — If Parmesan cheese cannot be obtained, any strong, old cheese that is dry enough to grate, may be used instead, In boiling all v^etables and cereals the more rapidly the water boils the more satisfactory will be the result. If a gratin-plate is not available, the cauliflower must be put upon <« plate that will stand the heat of the oven and in serving, a napkin may be laid under and prettily folded around to conceal the plate, if unsightly. 08 VEGkTASLES. Tomato Parci.— Provide for this : one quart of fresh tomatoes, two Spanish onions, four tablespoonsfuls of bread crumbs, three ounces of butter, x)ne-half tea- Spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper. The onions must have been put into boiling water and soaked over night, and when required for the preparation, they should be dried in a towel and then sliced, making the slices about a third of an inch thick. Melt in a frying-pan an ounce of the batter, and when hot, brown on both sides in it the onion slices. Slice the tomatoes and arrange a layer of them in the bottom of a vegetable dish, and over this put a layer of the browned onion. Sprinkle over this a little of the bread crumbs, season with the pepper and salt, and with these alternating layers proceed to fill the vegetable dish, leaving a top Covering of the bread crumbs. When the dish is filled, distribute the butter in small pieces over the top, and place all in a moderate oven to bake for three-quarters of an hour. Note — Canned tomatoes will answer for this faici, and when used, the half of a quart can will be sufficient, t Boiled Asparagus with White Sauce. — For this provide : one bunch of asparagus, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, oiie gill of milk, two table- spoonfuls of creamj one saltspoonfiil of salt, one salt- spoonful of pepper. Trim the asparagiis and cut it into equal lengths, wash it in cold water and putting it into a saucepan, cover- with boiling water, arid shut the lid of the sauce- pan for the first moment ; when the water boils up vig- GREEN PEAS. gq orously, take off the cover and let the asparagus boil for twenty minutes. Five minutes before the asparagus is done, take a small saucepan, and mixing it in the butter and the floUr, add to this by degrees a gill and a half of the liquor in which the asparagus is boiling. Stir this with the butter and flour until the mixture boils, when the milk should be added, and two minutes additional boiling allowed. Season with the salt and pepper, and drawing the sauce- pan aside from the fire, stir into it the cream. Take the asparagus from the water at the expiration of the twenty minutes, and drain it upon a wire sieve, place it in a vegetable dish and pour the sauce ^carefully around and across the tips, exercising caution not to spatter the ends of the stalks that are to be taken in the fingers. Notes — ^Asparagus may be boiled in the above manner, and lerved upon toast instead of with the white sauce. A very simple manner of boiling this vegetable, is to stand the unbroken bundle of asparagus upon the stalk end upright in a sauce- pan containing boiling water enough tp reach nearly to the tender gieen tips. It must be boiled rapidly until tender, and then, prepar- ing a hot napkin upon a platter, take the asparagus from the water, and draining it for a moment, place it upon thp napkin, cut the bands and draw them away, and fold over all snugly the ends of the napkin. The white sauce which is used for this, must be served in a gravy boat. A favorite way of serving boiled asparagus, is to make it very cold by standing in the ice-box, aqd then serve with a sauce piquant, com- posed of vinegar, pepper, salt and salad oiL In this way, asparagus may be used as a salad. Green Peas. — One quart of shelled peas, one ounce of butter, one-half teaspoonful of powdered sugar, one 100 VEGETABLES. , teaspoonful of "salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one sprig of mint. Place the peas in a large saucepan of boiling water, in which should be thrown the sprig of mint, and covering, let them boil rapidly from ten to twenty minutes, as the age of the peas may require. The moment the peas are done, they must be taken from, the water and drained, as over cooking spoils them. While the peas are draining, melt the butter, in the sauce- pan in which they have been cooked, and when this is melted, throw back into it the peas, sprinkle over them the pepper, salt and sugar, and, covering the saucepan, shake it over the fire until the peas are very hot, taking care that they neither brown nor break. Turnips. — For this take : six turnips, two table- spoonsfuls of beef dripping, one teaspoonful of salt, one- half teaspoonful of pepper, one tablespoonful of cream. First pare the turnips, taking care to cut off the white lining of the skin which is bitter, and the thickness of which will be perceived by the clearly defined circle discovered in cutting off the top. Wash the turnips thoroughly in cold water to whiten them and remove the finger marks, and putting them into a saucepan, cover them with boiling water, and closing the lid of the saucepan boil them rapidly until a fork will easily penetrate to their centres. When dope, dr^in the water well off them» add the beef- dripping, pepper and salt, and with a potato-masher mash them finely, using a fork occasionally to break the lumps. When mashed stir in with them the cream, and pile them high in a vegetable dish, smoothing the edges around with a knife. BOILED SUMMER SQUASH. joi Boiled Cabbage. — For this provide : one head of cabbage, three tablespoonsful of beef-drippings, one tea- spoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one lump of saleratus the size of a pea. Select a large, firm head of cabbage, wash it well and cut away the coarse 'outer leaves. This done cut off the -stalk and make cuts in the base of the cabbage, cross- ing each other in the centre, so that the water may pene- trate to the heart and cook it equally. Prepare a large saucepan of boiling water, into which throw the saleratus, put into this the cabbage, covering the pan until the water boils up, when removing the cover, it must be allowed to boil rapidly, until a skewer or fork will pierce readily through it, Remove the cabbage now to a cullender and let the water drain from it, and chop it roughly with a knife when drained. When chopped put it into a vegetable dish, pour over it the beef-drippings, sprinkle over the pepper and salt, wher it must be tossed about with a fork very quickly in order that the cabbage may not cool. When the seasoning is thoroughly distributed send it at once to the table. Notes — This may be cooked exactly the same way and served whole if preferred, in which case the dripping must be heated and poured over and the pepper and salt sprinkled over afterwards. Cabbage may also be boiled very palatably in the liquoi' in which either salt beef or salt pork is boiled. Boiled Summer Squash. — Take for this purpose : two medium sized squashes, two ounces of butter, one- half teaspoonful of pepper, one dessert spoonful of salt. The squashes must first be pared, then cut into slices and put into cold water for ten minutes. I02 VEGETABLES. Put the slices into a saucepan together with sufficient water to cover them, into which must be thrown the salt, and boil for about twenty minutes. Remove the squash to a cullender, drain off as much of the water as possible and mash them up, using a fork to break up all the lumps. Place all in a vegetable dish, add the butter and pepper, and toss them a^out with a fork until the butter is melted, when it should be smoothed over the top with a knife-blade, and served immediately. Boiled Carrots with Brown Sauce. — For this prepare : one bunch of young carrots, One ounce of but- ter, one-half ounce of flour, one-half pint of brown stock, one dessert spoonful of catsup, one saltspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper. Wash the carrots in cold water and cut them squarely across at the tops. , Throw them into boiling- water and boil them for twenty minutes, Ten minutes before this time expires, take the carrot tops that have been cut off, dry them thoroughly, and melting the butter in a frying pan, put these in tpp pieces and brown them upon both sides. When these are browned stir in with them the flour, add by degrees the stock and stir all together until the stock boils. Season with the pepper and salt, flavor with the catsup and again let the sauce boil for two min- utes. 1 When the carrots are boiled take them from the water and rolling them one by one in a towel, wring lightly to rub off the thin outer skin, stand them in regular order upright in a vegetable ,dish, and strain the, sauce around them. BOILED POTATOES. 103 Note. — Old carrots may be used also in this way but they must Gist be scraped and pared down to uniform sizes, and also will re- quire a little longer boiling. Boiled Potatoes. — For this provide : ten potatoes, one-half tablespoonful of salt. Select the potatoes of nearly an equal size, and wash them well in cold water. Pare them very thinly, as the best part of the potato lies nearest the skin, and putting them into a saucepan, cover them with cold water and bring the water quickly to the boiling point. Throw in the salt and covering the saucepan, let the whole boil rapidly until the surfaces of the potatoes begin to crack; then the water must be drained entirely off, leaving the pota- toes dry in the saucepan, and re-covering them, put the saucepan at one fide of the fire, turn it occasionally that they may not catch on the bottom and let them cook in their own Steam until they can be easily pierced with a skewer. When done remove the cover and set the saucepan for a moment over the fire to aid the escape of the steam and dry off any moisture. They must be carefully trans- ferred to a vegetable dish in order to preserve them un- broken. Notes — Instead of serving these potatoes whole they may be passed through a coUender or coarse wire sieve directly into a vegetable dish, the vegetable dish should be put into a very quick oven and the pota- toes browned over the top. Served in this way the potatoes have a beautiful light appearance resembling well boiled rice, beside being most delicious to the taste. New potatoes should be boiled after the above method with this difference. They must be scraped instead of pared and thrown into boiling water to boil instead of into cold. If the potatoes are desired plainly mashed, a, little cream and b^t- I04 VEGETABLES. ter should be added to them, and when mounded into the dish, a lump of butter may be let into the top, and some pepper dusted over all. Colcannou. — Provjde for this : One pound of cold boiled potatoes, one pound of cold boiled turnip, one ounce of butter, one tablespoonful of bread crumbs, one ' saltspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of p'epper. The bread crumbs must first be put upon a tin or plate, and into -the oven and browned to a light brown. Grease slightly a plain mould holding about' three pints, and sprinkle around the sides and over the bottom of this, the browned bread crumbs. Put into a bowl the potato and with it the turnip,- which must first be pressed down and drained of any water that it may have gathered in standing to cool. Mix these thoroughly together and sea- son them with the pepper and salt, adding also the butter, and when all is stirred together, pack the mixture into the mould, pressing it down with the blade of a knife, place the mould in a moderate oven where it must remain until its contents be thoroughly heated, then turn the form carefully out into a vegetable dish and serve steaming hot. Boiled Haxicot Beans. — Prepare: one pint of dried Haricot beans, four hard bojled eggs, yolk of one raw egg, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, two ounces of floiur, two ounces of butter, one-half pint of milk, one heaped teaspoonful of salt. Soak the dried beans over night in an abundance of cold water. Two hours before they are required to serve, drain from them the water in which they have soaked, and putting them into a saucepan, cover them well with cold water and let them boil briskly for two hours. The salt must meantime have been put into the water, and from time to time sis the water in the saucepan reduces by GREEN CORN. IO5 boiling, cold water must be poured in to keep the quan- tity the same, taking care to do this with sufficient fre- quency to prevent cooling the boiling liquor too much by the quantity of cold water added. Five minutes before the beans will be ready to dish up, melt in a small saucepan the butter, stir into it the flour, add by degrees the milk, and stir all until boiling. Let the mixture cook for two minutes, and season it with the salt. , When the beans are done, drain the water from them in th« quickest and most convenient way, so that they be rendered perfectly dry, place them in a deep vegetable dish, take the sauce from the iire, drop into it the yolk of egg, and pour all immediately over the beans. Take the shells from the hard-boiled eggs; cut them in two, and arrange them around the dish of beans with the rounded sides up. Sprinkle over each piece of egg a little of the chopped parsley, when the dish is ready for serving. Notes — ^It is contended that the dried Haricot beans cannot be properly cooked through, without breaking their skins, but if the above directions are strictly followed in the particularities of adding cold water, and boiling rapidly, the result will be that the beans are not only thoroughly cooked to their centres, but have preserved theii form unbroken. The dried white bean in ordinary use, may also be successfully boiled in this way. Green Gisoa.. — Prepare : ten ears of com, one table- spoonful of salt. Strip off the outer husks and turning the fine inner leaves carefully down, remove the silk from about the kernels, when the remaining husk must be again brought I06 VEGETABLES. to cover the ear in its natural fashion, and secured at the J:ip end with a piece of twine. Prepare a large saucepan of boiling water into which throw the salt and then the corn,Jaying the ears in the fashion of a cob-house, that the water may boil equally through and around all.. The corn must be left to boil twenty-five or thirty minutes, unless very young, when twenty minutes will do. > ' Serve in the husk, having first removed the binding twines, and covered closely with a folded napkin. Notes — Corn may be overdone as well as other vegetables, but by watching when the kernels are swelled to their largest size and the prick of a fork will bring a little pufF of steam followed by the shriv- eling of the kernel, no mistake of this kind need be made. An in- stants longer boiling when this point is reached, will cause the small puiT of steam generated, to find its own outlet, and the corn will shrivel and become 'watery in consequence. Green corn may also be stewed very palatably by being cut from the cob, put into a saucepan with such equal parts of milk and water as will cover the corn nicely, and when stewed until the kernels lose their milky rawness, season with the pepper, salt, and a lump of butter. Oyster Plant. — For this take: one-half dozen oyster plants, one-half tablespoonful of salt, three ounces of flour, one dessert spoonful of salad oil, one gill of tepid water, white of one egg. The oyster plants must be scraped and thrown into cold water in order to keep their color. Cut them when scraped, into convenient pieces and preparing a saucepan of boiling water into which ^throw the salt, put in the plants to boil until tender, the time for which depends upon the age of the plants. While the plants are boiling, place in a bowl the flour, PRENCff ARTtCHA UTS. 107 pour into the centre of it the salad oil and mixing this, add by degrees the tepid water. When this mixture is well beaten together, whip up the white of egg and add it, with a little salt. The plants being boiled, they must be taken from the water and dried thoroughly in a towel. The pieces must be thrown into the batter and each piece taken separately therefrom with a skewer or fork, dropped into hot clarified fat or lard and allowed to cook for three minutes. When done drain them for a moment upon a piece of kitchen paper and serve them piled high in a vegetable dish. French Artichauts. — Provide: six large artt- chauts, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one gill of cream, one and one-half gills of milk, one grain of cay- enne, one dessert spooonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper. The artichauts must first be scraped and thrown into vinegar and water, three parts water, and one part vine- gar, to preserve their color, When all are scraped transfer them from the vinegar- - water to a saucepan containing sufiicient boiling water, into which must be thrown the salt, to cover them nicely, and boil them until a skewer will pierce theip readily. Melt now in a small saucepan the butter, stir into it the flour, and, by degrees, the milk also, stirring all until boiling. Add to this the cream and letting the mixture cook for two minutes longer, season it with the salt and pepper, when thq sauce should be poured into a vegetable dish and the artichauts taken from the boiling water, and thoroughly drained, must be arranged to stand up in regular order in it. I<^ VEGETABLES. Note. — It is sometimes preferred to serve the artkhauts plainly boiled, as above, with a saoce piquant of vinegar, salad oil, pepper and salt. Brussels Sprouts. — Prepare : One quart of Brus- sels sprouts, one ounce of butter, one dessert spoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Throw the Brussels sprouts into a basin of cold water to draw out the grit or sand and wash them|well, then cut off with a knife the stalk end. Have in readiness a saucepan of boiling water into which has been placed half of the salt, drdn the sprouts from the cold water and throw them into the saucepan, put on the cover until the water boils up and uncover- ing them, let them boil rapidly for ten minutes. Pour them into a iCuUender to strain off the water, melt in the saucepan the butter, return the Brussels sprouts to it, and sprinkle over them the remainder of the pepper and salt. Shake the saucepan over the fire until the sprouts are thoroughly heated, taking care that they do not brown. When hot, transfer the sprouts to a vegetable dish, and serve at once. Boiled Onions. — Take : six Spanish onions, one- half teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one-half pint of milk, one gill of cream, one saltspoonful of pepper, one lump of saleratus the siae of a pea. The onions must first be skinned and allowed to stand all night in water, which must have been poured over them boiling, and in which the saleratus has been dissolved. An hour before required for use, the onions should Baked onions. 109 be put into a saucepan covered with cold water, put over the fire and when boiling, boiled for fifteen minutes. At the end of this time, the first water should be drained off", nearly all of the salt sprinkled over them, and recovering them with boiling water, allow them to boil for half an hour longer. \ While the onions are boiling, melt in a small saucepan the butter, stir into it the flour, and by degrees the milk, and when this mixture boils, add to it the cream, and let aU cook together for two minutes, when it must be sea- soned with the pepper and remaining salt. Take the onions from the water, when boiled, one by one, with a draining spoon, pressing them against the side of the saucepan in lifting them, that the water may be entirely expressed. / Place them in a vegetable dish, pour over them the white sauce, and they are ready to serve. Baked Onions. — Take : six Spanish onions, three ounces of butter, one-half ounce of flour, one teacupful of brown stock, one-half tablespoonful of salt, one-half tea- spoonful of pepper, one lump of saleratus the size of a pea. Soak the onions over night in a preparation of boil- ing water in which the saleratus has been dissolved, and an hour before they are required to serve, place them into a saucepan, cover them with cold water, place the saucepan upon the fire, and when boiling, let them con- tinue to coqk briskly for fifteen minutes. Take them, when boiled from the water, and putting them into a vegetable dish, distribute over thfem two ounces of the butter, sprinkle over them the pepper and salt, and placing the vegetable dish into a moderate oven, let them bake for half an hour. no VEGETABLES. Ten minutes before the onions will be done, put into a bowl the flour, and make it smooth with the stock. Five minutes before taking the onions from the oven, pour the mixed flour and stock over them, distribute over all the remainder of the butter in small pieces, and when the remaining Ave minutes expire, take the onions from the oven and serve at once. ' Notes — To fry onions they ^ould first be skinned, then boiling water poured over them. Dry them in a towel, cut them into thin slices, and fry in hot butter. Onions are exceedingly indigestible, unless soaked for twelve hours before cooking. Fried onions can not therefore ba recom- mended for dyspeptics. Iiima Beans. — Take : one pint of shelled lima beans, two ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt one teaspoonful of wMte pepper. Put the shelled beans into a bowl, and pour over them some boiling water. Leaving them in this water five minutes, take them out and drain theni, and placing them in a saucepan of boiling water in which the salt has been dissolved, and allow them to boil for twenty minutes. When done pour them into a cullender and when thoroughly drained, pour them into a vegetable dish, sprinkle over them the pepper, and melting the butter, pour it also over them and serve. Note — Succotash may be zhad^ from the boiled lima be'ans by adding to them an equal quantity of boiled green com cut from the cob, and an equal quantity of milk and water seasoned with pepper salt, and a Ump of butter being poured over the mixture while warm ing. BOILED PARsmPS. 1 1 1 Cabbage S.-la-Mode.— Provide : one head of =abbage, one-quarter pound of cold chicken, two ounces of cold pork, one-quarter pound of rice, three ounces of butter, one-half ounce of flour, one pint of brown stock, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, one Bermuda onion. A close firm head of cabbage should be selected, and this well washed in cold water, after which it must be placed in a large saucepan of boiling water, and boiled over a brisk fire for fifteen minutes. At the end of this time take the cabbage from the water, place it upon a platter to cool a little, and while this is cooling, put into a chopping bowl and chop very finely the chicken and pork, chop the onion also and mix it with the meat, season all with the pepper and salt, wash well the rice and mix it with the pOrk, fowl and onion, open the leaves of the cabbage gently, and insert- ing this mixture between them, bind the cabbage arouiid with a piece of twine, and melting in a large saucepan the butter, fry the cabbage in it until thoroughly brown. Mix the flour with a little of the stock in a bowl, and when the lumps are all beaten out, add the remainder of the stock. Pour this over the browned cabbage, and let all stew very slowly for three hours thereafter. When done, serve in a vegetable dish with the sauce poured around. Note — Cold roast beef or lean roast mutton, may be substituted when chicken is not convenient. BoUed Parsnips. — Prepare : ten medium sized parsnips, three ounces of butter, three gills of milk, one tablespoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg. 112 P'MGETABIMS. Wash the parsnips as cleanly as possible in cold water, when they must be put into a saucepan of boiling water in which the salt has been dissolved. Boil them from half an hour to three-quarters of an hour, as their age and size may demand, and when boiled until tender take them from the water, one by one, rubbing each in a clean towel to remove the skin, which will have become loosened by boiling. Place them in a heated vegetable dish, and when the butter has been melted, the milk added thereto, to- gether with the pepper and nutnjeg, and all boiled, this should be poured over the parsnips and all immediately served. Note — To fiy parsnips they must fiist be plainly boiled, then skinned, dried in a towel and split into halves and fried in^hot melted butter until browned. Leeks au Gratin. — Provide : Eight leeks, one- half tablespoonful of salt, one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, one-half pint of second stock, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, three ounces of grated cheese. Remove first the fibrous roots from the leeks, cut off the green stalks, leaving about an inch length of them on for use. Put them into a bowl and covering them with boiling water let the leek soak for ten minutes. At the expiration of this time put them into a saucepan of boil- ing water into which throw the skit and let all boil for three-quarters of an hour. While the leeks are boiling, mix together in a saucepan placed over the fire, the butter and flour, to which kdd the stock by degrees, and let all cook for two minutes, after which season with the pepper, throw in the nutmeg and one ounce of the cheese. PRENCH OR STRING BMANS. "3 When the leeks are done take them from the boiling water, drain them, and place them upon a gratin-dish. Pour over them half of the sauce from the saucepa:n, sprinkle over with the remainder of the cheese and plac- ing the dish in a quick oven let all become slightly browned. When browned remove the dish from the oven pour around the leeks the remaining sauce and serve. NoTK. — ^When a silver gratin-dish is not available, an ordinary flat dish may be used, with the consideration that it must be some- thing that will not be injured by the heat and also that the prepara- tion must be served in the same dish in which it is baked, French or String Beans. — Provide : One quart of beans, two ounces of butter, one saltspoonf ul of pepper, one dessert spoonful of salt, one grain of cayenne. First string the beans observing always to begin at the stem end of the pod when the strings will strip easily down- ward. Lay them flat upon a board and with a sharp knife cut them through the centres lengthwise, when they must be gathered into small bunches of equal size and secured with a piece of twine. Place the bunches now into a saucepan two-thirds full of boiling water in which the salt has been disolved and boil them for twenty minutes if the beans are very young, but if older they will require quite half an hour to become tender. When done drain off the water, and transferring each little bunch to a vegetable dish and cutting the strings arrange them neatly therein. Melt the butter, season it with the cayenne and pep per and pour it over all just before serving. 114 VMGETABLRS. Note, — String beans are sometimes served cut in small squares and with a sauce of melted butter and milk, seasoned with salt and pepper. Stewed Tomatoes. — Provide : two quarts of fresh tomatoes, two ounces of butter, two milk crackers, one- half teaspoonful of pepper, one half teaspoonf ul of salt. Put the tomatoes into a saucepan two-thirds filled with boiling water and let them boil until the skins begin to crack and curl. Take them from the water, drain them in a cullender, and when thoroughly drained, dry the bottom of the cullender and rub the tomatoes through it. Return them to the saucepan and let them stew slowly for one hour when the butter, pepper and salt must be added and just before serving stir in the crackers which must have been crushed fine with a rolling pin pre- paratory to using. Note — ^Canned tomatoes may be prepared also in this way except that having already been cooked in the process of canning they require only to be drained, made fine, and thoroughly heated. Stewed Celery. — Prepare : one head of celery, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, three gills of milk, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt Wash the celery thoroughly, cut it into inch-lengths when it should be put into a saucepan, covered with boil- ing water and cooked until tender, the length of time for which depends entirely upon the age and quality of the celery. When tender the water must be poured off, the milk and flour mixed together in a bowl, which season with the pepper and salt and povirin^ it over the celery, return the BOILED BEETS. "5 saucepan to the fire, stirring all until the milk boils, when the butter must be added and the stew served hot. Boiled Beets, — Provide : six medium sized beets, one-half pint of vinegar, one blade of mace, one-half tea- spoonful of white peppercorns, one-half teaspoonful of black peppercorns, one ounce of butter, one teaspoqnful of salt. . The beets must be carefully washed in cold water, taking care not to break off the fine fibrous roots in order that they may not bleed in boiling and so lose their color. Put them when washed into a large saucepan with plenty of boiling water and boil them until a skewer or fork will pierce easily to their centres. When tender drain off the boUing water, and taking each beet separately, rub off their skins in a clean dry towel. Take four of the beets and cut them into slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Place these slices into a vegetable dish, melt the butter and pour it over them, and sprinkling„over also the pepper and salt, they are ready to serve. Meantime while the beets have been boiling, thd vine- gar, mace and peppercorns must have been put together in a saucepan and boiled five minutes. When the re- maining two beets have been also sliced and arranged in a vegetable dish the prepared vinegar should be thrown over thenj and the whole put away to become cold before serving. Notes.— Beets prepared as above with the vinegar will keep for a week if desired. Beets, as well as potatoes may be baked in the oven and will be found very swoet ; but a long time is required to have them become Il6 VEGETABLES. thoroughly baked, the length of which must be detennined by testing with a skewer. Maccaroni and Cheese. — Three ounces of mac- coroni, 'three ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, one-half pint of milk, two ounces of butter, one gill of cream, one egg, one teaspoonful of dry mustard, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one saltspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of peppet. Wash the maccaroni in cold water, and removing it from the water, place it into a saucepan^ cover it with cold water, and let it boil in this for fifteen minutes. At the end of this time drain off the water, cover the maccaroni with the milk, and allow all to boil for three- quarters of an hour longer. When this is done put the cream into a bowl, beat it until very light, add the egg and beat both together until thoroughly blended. Season this mixture with the pepper, salt, cayenne and mustard, pour into it the boiled maccaroni, add to this two ounces of the cheese and one ounce of the butter, and wheii all has been well mixed; pour it out upon a platter, sprinkle over the remainder of the cheese, and distribute over also the remaining ounce of butter in small pieces. Place the plattet in a mod- erate oven and bake its contents for ten minutes, and serve at once upon the dish upon which it is prepared, Egg-Plant. — One small egg-plant, two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one^half teaspoonful of pepper, three ounces of butter. Slice the egg-plant very thinly, and pour over the slices some boiling water, allowing them to soak in this for ten minute^. CHICKEN SALAD. "7 At the end of this time drain the water from them, and dry them very thoroughly with a toWel. Beat the eggs until very light, dip the slices of egg- plant into this one by one, season the bread crumbs with the pepper and salt, and roll the egg-plant in turn in this; melting an ounce of butter in a frying-pan, put into this when hot, as many of the slices of the plant as will lay flatly in the pan, and fry them to a delicate brown on both sides. Add then a little more butter to that already in the pan, let it become hot and fry as many more as the pan will conveniently hold. Continue thus, adding butter and frying until all of the slices of egg-plant are done, when they should be served arranged upon a flat vegetable dish. SALADS. Chicken Salad. — One chicken, one teaspoonful of .salt, one teaspoonful of white pepper, one-half head of celery, one grain of cayenne, yolks of two eggs, one table- spoonful of vinegar, one tablespoonful of capers, one head of lettuce, one gill of salad oil. The fowl must be first cleaned and then put into boiling water and boiled until tender. After which it should be set into the ice-box and allowed to remain until perfectly cool. When cool cut it into small square pieces and remove the skin. The celery should be well washed, and it also cut into pieces of a similar size. Put into a bowl the yolks of egg, drop into this, drop by drop the oil, and beat them together with the back of a wooden spoon. llg SALADS. When this is done the mixture should resemble a thick cream, to which the vinegar should be added ; and putting the chicken and celery together in a salad bowl, pour over them this compound, sprinkle on also the pep- per, salt and cayenne, aiid mix all thoroughly together with a fork. Take then the fresh green leaves of the lettuce, and, washing well first, arrange them around the edge of jthe salad bowl, sprinkle the, capers over the top, and garnish the centre with tips of celery to give the salad an attrac- tive appearance. Note — Cold turk«y may be substituted for chicken, in making a salad. Potato Salad. — Eight large potatoes, two table- spoonfuls of vinegar, one-half of a Bermuda' onion, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, yolks of two eggs, one gill of salad oil, one teaspoonful of white pepper, one tea- spoonful of salt, one head of l(Sttuce. , Wash and pare the potatoes, and put them to boil in a saucepan containing as much cold water as will nicely cover them. Boil them until tender but not broken on the surfaces, when the water must be drained off, and the potatoes allowed to get quite cold. Cut them first into quarters, and then these quarters into slices, place the slices into a salad bowl, sprinkle over them the .chopped parsley and also the onion which must have been chopped exceedingly fine, when the. vinegar, pepper and salt must be added and all tossed with a fork until thor- oughly mixed. Put! now into a, small bowl the yolks of egg, and drop in thereafter the salad oil, drop'by drop, stirring all until it comes to a creq.m, when the mixture SHRIMP SALAD. 119 must be poured over the salad in the salad bowl, and the dish garnished with the fresh green leaves of the lettuce. Shrimp Salad. — One can of shrimps, two heads of lettuce, one gill of salad oil, one tablespoonful of vine- gar, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of white pepper, yolks of two eggs. The heads of lettuce should be carefully trimmed, well washed and thoroughly dried in a towel, avoiding as much as possible the crushing of the leaves, which causes them to wilt. They should next be picked apart, and the outer leaves torn into medium sized pieces, reserving the tender inner leaves for garnishing. Place the torn lettuce in the bottom of a Salad bowl, and removing the shrimps carefully from the bag in which they are put into the can, take from them any bits of shell or specks of black that may mar them, taking care not to break their form, and pile these high upon the lettuce in the centre of the bowl. Put the yolks of eggs into a small bowl, drop in upon them, drop by drop, the salad oil, and beat these to a thick cream when the vinegar must be added, also the pepper and salt, and all stirred together until thor- oughly blended. Pour this dressing over the shrimps, garnish around the sides and in the centre of the top, with the pale deli- cate inner leaves of lettuce and serve. This salad must not be mixed at all until it is served at table, as to stir it destroys the fine appearance of the shrimp, which are so delicate as to be easily broken. Notes — Mayonnaise dressing should invariably be stirred ore I20 SALADS. way, as to reverse the current of the liquid causes it to Curdle. If by • accident curdling occurs, its smoothness may be recovered by drop- ping in the yolk of another egg, and paying strict attention to the rule of stirring. When fresh shrimps instead of the canned ones are used, a large saucepan of boiling water, in which has been placed salt, a little , lemon-thyme, mint and bay-leaf should be prepared and the shrimps plunged into this, confined in a wire basket, and boiled until they change their color, the length of time for which depends upon the size of the shrimps. Iiobster Salad. — One quart of brown stock, one half ounce of gelatine, one tablespoonful of vinegar, one sprig of parsley, -one teaspoonfiil of pepper, two gills of cold water, whites of two eggs, one bay leaf, one lob- , ster, one ounce ' of butter, one tablespoonful of cream, one-half teaspoonf ul. of lemon-juice, two teaspoonsfuls of salt, one grain of cayenne, one head of lettuce, two table- spoonsfuls of salad oil, yolks of two eggs, one teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. The Aspic jelly required for the preparation of this salad, must be made the daylaefore it is' designed for use, in order that it may have time to become quite firm. It is to be. prepared as follows : Put the stock into a copper or porcelain-lined sauce- pan, and make it hot over a quick fire. While this is heating, soak the gelatine in* half a gill of cold water. When the stock has come to a tepid degree of heat, put into it the tablespoonful of vinegar, parsley, bay-lea.f and soaked gelatine. Whip up the whites of egg in a bo^l, and mix with it half a gill of cold water and a little pep- per and salt. ' Pour this egg mixture into the stock and stir all to- gether rapidly with an egg-whisk or two forks until the LOBSTER SALAD. \2\ Stock boils. Cover the saucepan closely and draw it aside from the fire, allowing its contents to simmer for ten minutes. Strain all through a clean towel into a bowl, and stand the jelly in a cool' dry place to become firm. When the lobster has been boiled and becomes cold, twist off the head, which will be used in garnishing, and remove the coral, if possible, without breaking it. Place the coral upon a plate and stand it where it may be, ex- posed to heat sufficient to dry it rapidly, but neither bake nor brown it. Remove also the meat from the tail and claws of the lobster, and cut it into convenient pieces. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir into it the flour. and add to it by degrees a gill of cold water. When this is boiling let it cook for two minutes thereafter rap- idly, and take it from the fire, add to it the cream, the lemon-juice, cayenne and a little pepper and salt ; also the pieces of meat from the lobster. When this is well mixed together it must be turned out upon a plate and put in a cool place, allowed to be- come quite cold. When cold, divide it into five portions and form each one into a cutlet about three inches long. Wash the lettuce, dry the leaves carefully with a towel, and tearing it into irregular pieces, arrange them in the bottom of a salad bowl. Mix in a separate bowl the yolks of egg and salad oil which must be dropped upon the egg drop by drop, and when these are beaten to a cream, add thereto the Tarra- gon vinegar. Pour this over the lettuce in the salad bo;wrl, sprinkle over all the remainder of the pepper and salt, and toss all lightly with a fork to distribute the dressing through the lettuce. 122 SALADS. Chop the Aspic jelly now coarsely, and arrange a wall of it around the sides of the salad bowl, taking care to keep the centre clear, and within this wall place the lobster cutlets in a circle. Into each of the cutlets stick one of the feelers from the lobster, rub the head with a little oil to brighten and bring out the color, and place it in the centre of the dish. Take the dried cora,l, and either pound it lightly in a mortar, or roll it fine upon a board with a rolling pin, and sprinkle a little of thjs ovet each cutlet, and the remainder over the wall of jelly. Notes — ^Tb boillobsters, plunge them into boiling water in which a little salt has been dissolved, and boil them for twenty minutes rapidly. A plain lobster salad may be made by following the directions for shrimp salad, by substituting the meat of the lobster cut in coarse pieces for the shrimps. Cucumber Salad. — Three medium sized green cucumbers, two tabfespoonfuls of salad oil, one table- spoonful of vinegar, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half tea- spoonful of black pepper. The cucumbers should be kept upon the ice until thoroughly chilled which renders them pleasantly brittle, after which they should be pared lengthwise, taking care to cut deep enough to remove all of the green inner skin which is exceedingly bitter, and when pared slice them into round thin slices, Arrange these slices in a mound in a shallow salad, bowl and mixing together the pepper, salt, oil and vinegar, pour this dressing over the cucumbers and stir all together until the dressing is well distributed when serving. LETTUCE SALAD. Hi^ Note, — A tomato salad may be prepared in this same manner with this difference, a little sugar must be added to the ingredients for the dressing. Beef Salad. — One pound of rare roast beef, one- quarter of a boiled beet, one tablespoonful of vinegar, three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of black pepper, one head of lettuce. Wash the lettuce, each leaf separately, dry it thor- oughly with a towel, taking care not to crush or wilt it, and reserving the few delicate inner leaves for garnishing, tear the rest into irregular pieces arid arrange theip in the bottom of a salad bowl. Cut the beef into small square pieces, slice the beet and cut it also into pieces ; mixing both lightly together, put them in pyramidal shape upon the lettuce in the bqwl and sprinkle over all the pepper and salt. Mix to- gether in a separate bowl the vinegar and oil, and when thoroughly blended, pour this dressing oyer the salad, and garnish at the top with the small lettuce leaves. Note. — A salad may be made of sliced cold tongue by following the above directions and substituting the tongue for the cold roast beef. Xiettuce Salad.— Two heads of lettuce, one dessert spoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one table- spoonful of salad oil, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two hard boiled eggs. Separate the leaves of the heads of lettuce, wash them carefully, and dry each leaf thoroughly with a towel, handling them gently that they may be neither crughed nor wilted. Tear the leaves into pieces and arrange them lightly in a salad bowl. Sprinkle over them the 124 SALADS. pepper and salt, and mixing the vinegar and oil together in a separate bowl pour it, when well blended, over the salad and stir all together at table when serving. Cut the h^rd boiled eggs jnto quarters and garnish the dish with them. NotKs — Endive, eschalot, chickoiy, watercresseS, celery and all green salads may be prepared as the lettuce and salad is prepared. All green salads should have the material of which they are composed made very cold and crisp before dressing. If French dres.sing is preferred to the vinegar dressing, the propor- tions of vinegar and oil may be simply changed from the above given quantities to three tablespoonfuls of salad oil, one tablespoonful of vinegar. Green salads should be stirred as little as possible before being sent to the table in order that their freshness may be preserved until the moment of serving. Salad iL-la-Russe. — One boiled carrot, one boiled turnip, two boiled potatoes, one-third of a head of fresh celery, one boiled beet, four olives, four anchovies, yolks of two eggs, one tablespoonful of vinegar, one teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar, one teaspoonful of sa,lt, one-half tea- spoonful of pepper. First put iiito a small bowl the yolks of eggs and drop upon them the salad oil, drop by drop, beating this to a cream as the oil is dropped in. Stir in both the vinegar and Tarragon vinegar and season with a little of the pep- per and salt. Cut the carrot, turnip, potato and ^elery into small dice, arrange these dice in pyramidal form upon a flat platter and pour over this the mayonnaise dressing. Cut the boiled beet into regular round slices and place them around the dish lapping one upon the other. At POTATO CROQUETTES. 125 each comer place one of the four olives, around each of which must be twisted one of the anchovies ; sprinkle over all the remainder of the pepper and salt and Serve. Notes. — Hard boiled eggs may be used for garnishing salads as the fancy or taste may dictate. Olives are frequently used in chicken, turkey and lobster salad and for those who have a fondness for this relish they may be used at dis- cretion. Potato salad may be made if desired with a simple vinegar dress- ing instead of the mayonnaise. CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. CROQUETTES. Potato Croquettes. — One pound of mashed pota- toes, one ounce of butter, two tablespoonsfuls of milk, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, two eggs, four table- spoonfuls of bread crumbs, one grain of cayenne, one- half teaspoonful of salt. First melt the butter in a saucepan, add to it the milk, and bring them together to the boiling point. Pass the mashed potatoes through a sieve, and add them to the boiling milk and butter. Beat all well together until the potatoes are very hot, when the saucepan must be taken from the fire, the pepper, salt and cayenne thrown in ; then drop in the yolks of eggs, and stir until the heat of the potato dries the egg. Roll this mixture into small balls, using a little flour to prevent its sticking to the hands, beat up the whites of the eggs and roll each ball therein. Place the bread crumbs upon a sheet of kitchen paper, and putting the balls one by one into this, roll them from 126 CROQUETTES AND PRITTERS. side to side until covered with the crumbs, when they must be put into hot clarified fat or lard, and fryed for two minutes. Note — The yolks of egg are mixed with the potato in order to bind it together, and to gire the croquette a rich yellow color. If the whites were put in also, difficulty would be experienced in form- ing the croquettes and the color Would not be so fine. Chicken Croquettes.^One-half of a chicken, three ounces of butter, two ounces of cold tongue, seven ounces of flour, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half saltspoonful of pepper, the rind of one lemon, one-half teaspoonful of lemon juice, one egg, six tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one-half gill of cold water. First bone the chicken, remove the skin and chop the meat very finely. , Chop the tongue finely also, and mix ' it with the chicken. Flavor this with the rind of lemon grated and the nutmeg; season with the pepper and nearly all of the salt. Place the flour into a bowl and rub into it the butter. When mixed make a well in the centre of it, put into it the water, lemon juice, and the remainder of the salt, kneading all firmly together. Roll this paste out as firmly as possible,' and cut it into rounds with a biscuit cutter." Beat the egg until very light and brush the edges of the ipunds with it. Put into the centre of each round of paste as much of the mixed chicken and tongue as they will hold, when the edges must be gathered up and pinched firmly together. When filled, roll each of the croquettes first into the egg and then intOj the bread klCE CROQUETTkS. 137 crumbs, and throwing them into hot clarified fat or lard, let them cook for five minutes. When done take them from the fat, place them for a moment upon a piece of kitchen paper to drain, arrange them neatly in a napkin folded in cup shape, and garnish with parsley. Rice Croquettes.— One quart of milk, three-quar- ters pounds of rice, three ounces of sugar, one teaspoon- ful of lemon juice, two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one-half saltspoonful of salt. Wash the rice thoroughly, put it into a saucepan and pour over it the milk. Cover the saucepan closely, and putting it over the fire without having stirred the contents let aU simmer slowly for twenty minutes. At the end of this time remove the saucepan from the fire, Stir in the yolks of eggs, lemon juice, salt, and ^half of the sugar, beat all thoroughly together and turn out, when mixed, the compound into a bowl and let it stand until it becomes thoroughly cool. When this mixture is quite cold, mould it into small equal-sized balls, beat the whites of egg until quite light, and dip the balls therein. Roll them in the bread crumbs which must have been placed upon a sheet of kitchen paper for this pur- pose, and throwing the croquettes from this into hot clari- i'led fat or lard, let them fry for two minutes. When done take them from the fat, place them upon a sheet of kitchen paper to drain for a moment, and serve them in a folded napkin with the remainder of the sugar sprinkled over them. NOTKS — If it is preferred, these croquettes can be made without the sugar, and if so done a little more salt may be used. It must be observed that the rice is not to be stirred when boiled I2S CHOQUMTTES AND PRITTSRS. for this preparation, otherwise the grains will be broken and the dan- ger be incurred of its sticking fast to the bottom of the saucepan, and so scorching. Crab Croquettes. — Two crabs, three ounces of butter, three ounces of flour, one-half pint of milk, one teaspoonful of Anchovy sauce, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one egg, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, one grain of cayenne. Throw the crabs into boiling water and let them boil for fifteen minutes. Remove the meat from the shells- and chop it coarsely. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir into it the flour and add to this by degrees the milk. When this is brought to the boilirig point let it boil for two minutes thereafter, and take it from the fire. Throw into the saucepan the meat from the crabs, add to the mixture thus formed, the cayenne, salt, pepper and Anchovy sauce, and when thoroughly mixed turn it out upon a plate and allow it to cool. When quite cold form the compound into small equal rolls three inches in length, beat the egg and dip each roll therein, after which they must be placed upon the bread crumbs which must be prepared upon a sheet of kitchen paper for the purpose, and rolled therein from side to side until each croquette is blanketed with the crumbs. Drop them into hot clarified fat or lard and fry them for two minutes ; taking them from the fat drain them for a moment upon a sheet of kitchen paper, serve them in a folded napkin garnished with sprigs of parsley. Croquettes of Shad-Roe. — Four medium sized shad-roe, two boiled potatoes, one ounce of butter, one CROQ, UE TTES OF SALMON. \ ig ounce of flour, one gill of cold water, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half tea- spoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of lemon-juice, two hard boiled eggs, one raw egg, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs. Throw the roes into boiling water and boil them for twenty minutes. Take them from the water, drain them, placing them in a bowl, separate them with a wooden spoon. Add to the roes the pepper, salt and chopped parsley. Place a sieve over the bowl and rub through it the yolks of the hard boiled eggs. Rub through upon this the potatoes ; remove the sieve, add the whites of the hard boiled eggs, finely chopped, and the lemon-juice. Melt in a saucepan the butter, stir into it the flour, and the gill of water by degrees and when this boils, pour it over the materials in the bowl, and stir all thoroughly together. Fashion this mixture into small equal shapes resem- bling the shad-roes in miniature, beat the raw egg and dip the croquettes into it, place the bread crumbs upon a sheet of kitchen paper and roll them in turn in it, and putting them into hot clarified fat or lard, fry them for two minutes after which they must be drained of any superfluous grease upon a sheet of kitchen paper, and served in a folded napkin. Croquettes of Salmon, — Three-quarters of a pound of cold boiled salmon, five tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one and one-half ounces of butter, two eggs, one- half of a lemon, one teaspoonful of Anchovy sauce, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one saltspoonful of powdered mace. I JO CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. Shred the salmon with two forks and remove from it the bones and skin. Place it when prepared into a bowl and mix with it the bread crumbs. Melt the butter and pour it over this mixture, add thereto the pepper, salt, mace and nutmeg, and beating all thoroughly together^ squeeze over it the lemon-juice. ' Add to the compound the Anichovy sauce and the two eggs, stir all again together and form this into croquettes of equal size about three inches in length, using a little flour upon the hands to prevent the mixture from sticking. Drop the croquettes one by one into hot clarified fat or lard, fry them for two minutes then removing ^hem from the frying pan drain them a moment upon a piece of kitchen paper. Serve in a napkin folded in the form of a basket. CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. FRITTERS. Fotato Fritters.— Six boiled potatoes, three ounces of flour, one tablespoonful of salad oil, one gill of tepid water, one-half teaspoonful of white pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, white of one egg. Put the flour into a bowl, mix with it the salt and pepper, pour into the centre the salad oil, and over this the tepid, water, beating all well together. Whip the white of egg to a stiff froth, and add this to ihe mixture in the bowl, stirring very carefully in order not to break the froth. Quarter the potatoes, and dip each piece separately OYSTER FRITTERS. 131 into the batter. Throw them into hot clarified fat, and let them fry three minutes. Remove them from the frying pan, drain them of grease upon a sheet of kitchen pan, and serve piled high in a vegetable dish. Notes — All batters should be made an hour or two before using, adding the white of egg just at the moment of use, as the grains of flour soak and swell out by standing after being moistened, and so the batter becomes lighter. Parsnip fritters may be prepared with the same kind of batter nsed for the potato, but when parsnips are used they must be thor- oughly dried before being dipped into the batter. Oyster Fritters. — One dozen large oysters, four ounces of flour, one gill of milk, one-half teaspoonful of lemon juice, two eggs, one dessert spoonful of salad pil, one-half teaspooiiful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Drain the liquor from the oysters, and dry them each thoroughly in a towel. Spread them out upon a plate, keeping them as separate as possible that they may de- velope no moisture from contact, while the batter is being prepared. Put the flour into a bowl, mix with it the pepper and salt, and making a little hole in the centre of this, drop into it the yolks of the eggs and the salad oil. Pour over the yolks of the eggs and the salad oil the milk by de- grees, and mix the flour into it from the sides, taking care that it does not lump, then beat all smoothly together, and whipping the whites of the eggs to a stiflf froth, mix this lightly into the batter. Pierce the oysters through the ear with a skewer, and lifting them in this way, dip them one by one into the 132 CROQUETTES AND FRITTERS. batter, and throwing them into hot clarified fat or lard fry them, allowing each oyster to remain in, four minutes Drain off such superfluous grease as may cling to them upon a sheet of kitchen paper, and arranging the 'ritters in a hot napkin, spi-ay over them the lemon juice. ' Cheese Fritters. — Three ounces of flour, one egg, one gill of tepid water, one saltspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, three ounces of Parmesan cheese, one-half teaspoonful of dry mustard, one-half ounce of butter. Put the floiir into a bowl and melting the butter pour this into the centre of it. Add to this by degrees the water, beating all together meantime. Drop in the yolk of the egg, season with the pepper, salt and mustard. Stir in also the grated cheese, and last of all the white of the egg which must first be whipped to a froth. Dip from this mixture tablespoonfuls and drop them one by one into hot clarified fat or lard. As the fritters become firm and arise to the top, turn them over with a skewer that they may brown evenly all around. As soon as they become brown, remove them from the fat and place them upon a sheet of kitchen paper to drain for a moment, when they must be piled tastefully upon a hot napkin, and served garnished with sprigs of parsley. Note — Any strong old cheese that is dry enough to grate^ may bf used instead of the Parmesan cheese for/these fritters. Apple Fritters.^Three large apples, three ounces of flour, one dessert spoonful of salad oil, one ounce of sugar, one gill of tepid water, white of one egg. The apples must be very "thinly pared and cored. CORN FRITTERS. 133 leaving them whole. They must be cut around into slices about a third of an inch in thickness,- Put the flour into a bowl and pour into the cen- tre thereof the salad oil. Over this pour the tepid water and beat all well together. Beat the white of egg to a stiff froth and stir this into the batter very lightly, and when all is smoothly mixed, lift the slices of apple with a skewer, and dipping them into the batter, throw them one by one into hot clarified fat or lard, and fry them therein until the skewer will easily pierce them through, the time required for which depends upon the quality and kind of apple used. When done drain them for a moment upon a sheet of kitchen paper, and arranging them in a circle upon a flat dish, sprinkle the sugar thickly over them and serve. Note — Sugar should never be put into any kind of batter as it tends to render it heavy. It is better to use it as with these fritters, by sprinkling over when the dish is ready for serving. Com Fritters. — Four ears of boiled com, four ounces of flour, one gill of milk, two eggs, one-half tea- spoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt. First put the flour into a bowl, and dropping in the yolks of eggs, pour over them the milk, and mix in the flour from the sides while pouring on the milk. When all is smooth, season with the pepper and salt, whip the whites of egg to a stiff froth and mix this with the batter very lightly. Cut the corn from the cob and stir it into the batter, dipping the mixture from the bowl in large spoonfuls drop them into hot clarified fat or lard and fry until 134 SOUFFI.es. thoroughly brown, turning them constantly meantime that they may brown evenly. Serve in" a flat vegetable dish upon a hot napkin, having drained them for a moment upon a sheet of kitchen paper after removing them from the frying pan. / . Banana Fritters, — Four bananas, three ounces of flour, one dessert spoonful of salad oil, one gill of tepid water, white of one egg. ^ Put the flour into a bowl, pour into the certtre of it the salad oil and add by degrees the water, mixing the flour in from the sides as the water is poured over. Whip the white of egg to a stiff froth and stir it to- gether with the mixture in the bowl very lightly. Take the skin from the bananas and split them into halves. Melt in a frying pan three ounces of butter and when the blue smoke arises therefroni dip the slices of banana into the batter and placing them with the flat side down- ward into the frying pan baste them with the hot butter over the rounded sides until done to a nice light brown. When done they must be removed from the frying pan with a cooking shovel in order that they may not be broken in lifting, as tfeey become deliciously tender in pro- cess of frying. Serve upon a flat china fruit plate and with fine sugar if desired. SOUFFLES. Potato Souffl€. — Four large potatoes, one ounce of butter, one-half gill of milk, one-half teaspoonful of white pepper, one-half teaspoonful of salt, yolks of three eggs, whites of four eggs. First scrub the potatoes well in cold water and then POTATO SOVFFLJE. 135 put them to bake in a moderate oven for half or three- quarters of an hour which may be determined by testing the potatoes with a skewer, removing them from the oven when it will readily pierce through them. Cut off the tops of the potato when baked and scoop the flour from them, taking care not to break the skins. Rub the potato-flour through a sieve to make it perfectly smooth, and putting the butter into a saucepan, add to it the milk, pepper and 'salt and placing the saucepan over the fire, allow the milk to boil. ' When this boils throw into it the potato flour and stir all well together until the potato becomes hot. Take the saucepan from the fire and drop in the yolks of the eggs, stirring each one thoroughly together with the potato mixture before putting in the next, to prevent curdling. Put the whites of the eggs upon a plate and whip them with a knife to a very stiff froth. Mix this into the com- pound in the saucepan, being careful not to break the froth, and when this is done fill each of the potato skins two- thirds full of this mixture, place them upright in a baking- tin and bake them in a quick oven from seven to ten minutes. The length of time required for the baking is deter- mined by the heat of the oven which should be quick, and the soufH6 may be pronounced done when the finger may be pressed upon the top of the stuffing of the potato skins, and removed again without any of the mixture adhering. Serve on a small platter. ^OTi— Sometimes in preparing these souffles, then will bt a lit- 136 SOUFFLgS. tie of the potato flour mixture left after the skins are sufficiently filled, and when this occurs, the remnant may be utilized by baking it in a greased cup. Lexaon Souffl€. — Two lemons, one pint of milk, two ounces of butter, two ounces of flour, one ounce of arrow root, two ounces of sugar, yolks of four eggs, whites of five eggs. Grease a broad band of paper and secure it with a piece of twine around the top of a quart souffl6 tin, in order that it may project and deepen the tin, and so pre- vent the souffle running over the sides as it rises. Grease the sides and bottom of the souffl6 tin. Cut from the lemon its thin yellow rind, and put it into a saucepan ^with a gill of the milk. Allow this to come to the boiling point, and drawing the saucepan aside from the fire, let its contents simmer slowly for five minutes. Put into a copper or porcelain-lined saucepan the butter, and stir into it as it melts, the flour. Add the arrow root and sugar, and by degrees the remainder of the milk. Stir this until it boils, and when boiling strain the lemon rinds from the milk, and add the flavoring liquid to the mixture in the saucepan. Draw the saucepan aside from the fire, let it cool slightly, and drop into it, one by one, the yolks of eggs. Stir this well together, when the whites of the eggs must be put upon a plate and whipped to a stifi" froth, and this also added to the contents of the saucepan, stirring lightly in order not to beat down the froth. Put this mixture quickly into the souflle tin, that the froth of egg may not fall; place the tin into a deep VANNILLA SOUFFLE. 137 saucepan containing sufficient boiling water to reach half way up the sides of the tin, cover the saucepan closely, draw it to one side of the fire, and let the water simmer for three-quarters of an hour, taking care to keep the sauctepan closely covered all the time, and so keep con- fined all the steam generated in which the soufH^ is being cooked. At the end of this time remove the soufH6 from the saucepan, cut from it the band of paper, transfer it to a silver souffle dish or fold a napkin around the tin in which it is prepared and serve immediately. If the dining-room be distant from the kitchen, the soufSd should be carried in upon a hot shovel, otherwise , it may be chilled and so fall from its perfect state. Note — Should it be desired, the souffle prepared as above may be divided and put into pint sou£3e tins, baking one and steaming the other. Vanilla Sou£i6. — One ounce of flour, one and one-quarter ounces of butter, one dessert spoonful of sugar, one gill of milk, one-half teaspoonf ul of the essence of vanilla, yolks of three eggs, whites of four eggs, one tablespoonful of raspberry jam, one-half teaspoonful of lemon juice, one glass of sherry, six drops of cochineal. Grease a band of paper and secure it around the top of a pint and a half souifl6 tin, in order to deepen the tin and keep the souffld in form as it rises. Grease the sides and bottom of the tin inside. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir into it the flour, add to this the gill of milk and stir all together until boiling. Draw the saucepan aside from the fire, throw into it the sugar and essence of vanilla, and 138 SOUFFLES. drop in also one by one the yolks of eggs, stirring all thoroughly together. Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir this in also, taking care not to break the froth. Pour the mixture now into the souffle tin, which it should about two-thirds fill, place the tin into a deep saucepan containing sufficient water to reach.half way up the sides of the, mould, and covering the sa.ucepan closely, draw it aside from tlie fire and let the water there- in simmer slowly for thirty minutes, keeping it always covered. \ Five minutes before this time expires, rub through a horsehair sieve the jam, add to it the sherry and lemon juice, also the cochineal, put all into a small saucepan ; place over the fire, and stir until the mixture boils. Draw it then from the fire. Remove also the souffle from the saucepan, cut the paper from it and turn the sduffld out upon a hot, flat dish. Pour the sauce around it, and serve immediately. Note. — The lemon souffle may al$o if desired be served upon a hot platter, with the above sauce poured around it. Chocolate Souffles. — Three ' ounces of grated chocolate, one ounce of sugar, one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, one gill of milk, yolks of three eggs, whites of four eggs. Grease and bind around a pint and a half soufll^ tin, a band of papeir to form a wall above the tin, and confine the soufll^ as it rises. Grease also the interior of the tin. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir into it the flour, and adding the milk stir all until boiling. OAfSLETTE SOUFFLi.. 139 When boiling take the saucepan from the fire, throw into it the chocolate and the sugar, and drop in the yolks of the eggs one by one, stirring all meantime. Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and stir this in also, very lightly. Pour the mixture into the soufflfe tin, which should make it about two-thirds full, and place the tin into a deep saucepan containing sufficient water to reach half way up the sides of the form. Cover the saucepan and drawing it aside from th? fire allow the water to simmer therein for thirty minutes, keeping it all the time covered. When steamed take the soufH6, from the saucepan, transfer it quickly to a silver soufil6 dish or fold around the tin in which it is prepared a napkin and serve at once, carrying the dish upon a hot Shovel if the dining-room be distant frohn the kitchen. Omelette Sou£El€. — ^Yolks of two eggs, whites of three eggs, one teaspoonful of powdered sugar, one tea- spoonful of essence of vanilla, one-half ounce of butte,r, one grain of salt. First put into a small bowl the yolks of the eggs, to- gether with the sugar and vanilla and with a wooden spoon, stir theSe until they come to a thick cream, which will take three or four minutes. Put the whites of the eggs upon a perfectly dry plate, sprinkle over them the grain of salt and with a dry knife whip them to a very stiff' froth. Melt the butter in an omelette pan taking care that it does not get hot. Mix together the whites and the yolks of the eggs, pour this into the omelette pan, and put the pan over the fire for one minute. 140 SOUFFLSS. Transfer the pan to^a iquick oven and allaw it to re- main there for five minutes. Turn the souffle out quickly upon a hot platter, fold it evenly together and serve at once. A tablespoonful of jelly or jam may be placed in the centre of the souffle when served, if desired. Notes. — Salt is 'added to the whites of eggs for the purpose of. ' cooling them, and, if in the slightest degree stale, to aid in bringing them more quickly and lightly to a froth, ' The whites of eggs must be whipped upon a dry plate and with a dry knife as the slight^t moisture will prevent their coming to a froth, and unless the froth of egg Tje very stiff the omelette souffle will be made heavy by it and so spoiled. Cheese Souffle. — One ounce of butter, one ounce of flour, one gill of milk, one-half teaspoonful of white pepper, ope-half teaspoooful of salt, one grain of cayenne, three ounces of grated cheese, yolks of three eggs, whites of four eggs. Melt the butter in a small saucepan and stir into it the flour, adding also the milk and stirring all until boil- ing. Throw into the boiling mixture the pepper, salt and cayenne, when removing the saucepan from the fire, the yolks of egg must be added together with the grated cheese and the whole very thoroughly beaten to- gether. Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiflt froth and stir this in also, using care not to beat down' the froth. Fill this mixture equally into small paper ramakins or cups, or into tin cups if more convenient, and bake them in a quick oven for ten minutes. Arrange the cups when the soufil4s are done upon a hot plate and serve imme- diately. Ctt^STtfVT SOUFFLS. 141 If the tin cups are used, a napkin may be folded in basket shape upon the plate, and the tins be placed in it. Chicken Souffle. — The breast of one raw chicken, one gill of cream, one egg, one-half ounce of butter, one- half ounce of flour, one saltspoonful of white pepper, one saltspoonful of salt, two truffles. Take the skin from the breast of chicken, chop it finely and pound it when chopped, in a mortar. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir into it the flour, and one tablespoonful of the cream. Let this boil, and when boiling take the saucepan from the fire and pour its contents over the chicken in the mortar, adding also one egg. Pound all well together and season with the pepper and salt. When pounded pass the mixture through a sieve, and putting the remainder, of the cream into a small bowl, beat it with a fork until it comes to a stiff froth ; mix this very lightly with the strained, mixture, grease a few cup tins, and cutting the truffles into stars, place one of these in the bottom of each tih. ' Fill the tins about half full with the mixture, and place them into a sautie can half filled with boiling water, cover them with a round of greased paper and let them steam slowly for fifteen minutes. When done turn the souffles out upon a hot platter, having the truffle stars uppermost, and serve at once. Note. — Any shallow pan will answer if a saute pan is not availa- able, but care must be taken that the boiling water does not reach more than half way up the sides of the cup tins. Chestnut Souflli. — One pint of fresh chestnuts, one and one-half gills of milk, yolks of three egg, whites 142 PUDpitfGS. of four eggs, one ounce of powdered sugar, one ounce of butter, one ounce of flour. Throw the chestnuts into boiling water and boil them until the shells begin to crack open. Take them from the water, remove their shells and inner skins, pound them in a mortar and make them perfectly smooth by passing ,them through a sieve. Pour the milk over the chestnut-flour and stirring this together, put the mixture into a small saucepan and let it .cook over a slow fire for ten minutes. * At the end of this time melt the butter in a separate saucepan, stir into it the flour and when these are mixed, pour in with them the milk and chestnuts. The instant this boils take it from the fire, and adding the sugar and yolks of eggs, beat all well together. Whip the whites of eggs to a stifi' froth and stir this in lightly also, and greasing a pint and a half soufil6 tin^ pour into it the mixture and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Serve in a silver souffle dish or in a folded napkin, and without any delay. PUDDINGS. Welcome Guest Pudding. — Eight ounces of bread crumbs, one-half pint of milk, four ounces of beef suet, three ounces of citron, four ounces of sugar, rind of one ' lemon, three ounces of ailmonds, four eggs, one grain of salt. Place four ounces of the bread crumbs into a bowl, and bringing the milk to the boiling point pour it over them. Cover the bowl with a plate, and allow the bread crumbs to soak in the milk for ten minutes. PIG PUDDING. 143 While the breiad crumbs are soaking, pour over the almonds some boiling water to blanch them and remove their skins. Remove the skin from the suet and chop it very finely, and chop the almonds. Stir into it the bowl with the soaked bread crumbs the four remaining ounces of crumbs, add to this the chopped suet and almonds, also the grated rind of lemon together with the sugar and citron, which last must have been cut into very small pieces. Separate the yolks from the whites- of the eggs vety carefully, drop the yolks one by one into the bowl and stir all well together. Whip the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, add- ing the grain of salt to cool and lighten it. Mix this lightly also with the other ingredients in the bowl, and taking a quart mould, dry it thoroughly, and greasing the interior with butter, pour into it the mixture and place securely over the top a greased sheet of kitchen paper. Place the mould when filled, in a deep saucepan con- taining enough boiling water to reach half way up the sides, and let the pudding boil therein for two hours. When done the mould should be removed from the boiling water, allow two minutes for it to cool, and then turn the pudding out upon a hot platter. This pudding should be served either with a jam, wine or lemon sauce, to prepare which see directions for sauces, pages 167 and 168. Kg Pudding. — One-half pound of figs, one-half pound of bread crumbs, one- half pound of sugar, one- half pound of beef suet, three eggs. Remove the skin from the suet, chop it very finely. 144 ' PilDDWGS. put it into a bowl and chopping the figs also very finely mix toth together. Stir into this the bread crumbs, beat in a separate bowl the eggs and sugar, mix this with the figs, suet and bread crumbs, and greasing the interior of a melon mould pour this ndixture into it, put on the cover and plunging it into a large saucepan pf boiling water, let it with its contents boil for two hours. When done the pudding should be turned out upon a hot platter and served with wine or brandy sauce' poured around it, for the preparation of which sauces, see pages 167 and 168. Albert Pudding. — One-quarter of a pound of but- ter, one-quarter of a pound of flour, one-quarter of a pound of sugar, three eggs, rind of one lemon, two ounces of raisins. Grease well a pint and a half pudding mould with but- ter and seeding the raisins, stick them against the walls of the mould at intervals so that they may garnish the exte- rior bf the pudding when done. Put the butter into a bowl, rub into it the sugar with the back of a wooden spoon, and if the weather is cold the butter will require to be warmed a' little, care being taken that it, does not oil. Add to this cream of butter and sugar, a little of the flour aiid the yolk of one of the eggs. Stir all w?ll together and repeat this process until the flour and eggs are jfll used. Add to the mixture now the grated lemon rind, whi}; the whites of the eggs taa stiff" froth and stir this in also, very lightly. By this time the butter with which the mould is grease;d will have cooled and the pjidding may be poured in, using a little care to avoid disarranging the raisins. AVNT MARTHA'S PUDDING. 145 When the mould is filled, cover its mouth with a piece of greased paper and, sinking it half its length into a saucepan of boiling water, boil the pudding therein for an hour and a half. When the pudding is boiled, turn it out of the mould upon a hot platter and pour around it a jam or lemon sauce, directions for making which will be found upon pages, 167, and 167. IiOwell Pudding. — Four teacupfuls of flour, one teacupful of beef suet, one and one-half teacupfuls of sweet milk, one and one-half teacupfuls of sugar, one tea- spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of bi-carbonate of soda. Put the flour into a bowl and removing the skin from the suet, chop it very finely and mix it with flour. When these are well mixed add the milk and sugar. Put the bi-carbonate of soda upon a plate and make it smooth with the back of a spoon, add this with the salt the other ingredients and stir all very thoroughly to- gether. Pour the pudding into a well greased pudding mould and put on the cover, place the mould into a large saucepan, cover it with boiling water and let it boil there- in for three hours. When done remove the mould from the boiling water, let it cool for a moment, and turn the pudding out upon a hot platter, and serve with a hard or wine sauce;, to pre- pare which see pages 168, and 168. Auut Martha's Pudding. — Six ounces of bread crumbs, one gill of milk, yolks of three eggs, whites of two eggs, one teaspoonful of essence of vanilla, three ounces of sugar, one-half dozen of preserved cherries. Grease a pint pudding mould thoroughly inside with 146 PUDDINGS. butter ; stick into the bottom of it the preserved cher^ ries in order that they may garnish the top of the pud- ding. V Put the milk into a small saucepan and bring it to the boiling point, and putting the bread crumbs into a basin, throw over them the boiling milk. Place in a separate bowl the yolks of eggs, and with them the sugar, and beat these well together., Whip the whites of the eggs into a stiff froth, and mix them lightly together with the yolks and sugar. Add to this the essence of vanilla, and mix this together with the soaked bread crumbs and milk, stirring all thoroughly. Pour the pudding now into the mould, cover the' mouth of it with a piece of greased kitchen paper, place the mould into a saucepan containing sufficient water to reach half way up its sides,' and bqil the pudding therein for one hour and twenty minutes. When done, take the mould from the water, and let- ting it cool for a moment, turn the pudding out upon a hot platter and serve with a jam sauce, the recipe for making which, will be found upon page 167. Cabinet Pudding. — One dozen lady fingers, one ounce of ratifias, four eggs, one ounce of sugar, three ounces of stale Qake, one pint of milk, one teaspoonful of essence of vanilla, one dozen preserved cherries. Grease the sides and bottom of the interior of a pint and a half souffl6 tin. Arrange in the bottom of this the cherries,>o that when the pudding is turned out they may garnish its top. Line the mould with the lady fin- gers, placing them perpendicularly around with their flat sides against the sides of the mould. Break up what remains of the lady fingers and throw the pieces into the LEMON PV DOING. 1 47 centre of the mould. Crush the ratiiias in the hand, and throw them in also, and upon this, the stale cake broken into small irregular pieces. Put the sugar into a bowl, and with it the eggs, beating these together until very light with a fork. When this is beaten, add to it the milk and vanilla, pour this mixture into the mould slowly, letting it have time to soak into the cake, and so making room enough for all of the liquid. When filled, cover the mould with a piece of greased kitchen paper, and standing it into a saucepan containing sufficient boiling water to reach half way up the sides of the tin, allow the pudding to boil in this for one hour and twenty minutes. When done, remove the mould from the saucepan, let it cool a moment, and then turning the pudding out upon a flat pudding dish, serve it immediately with a lemon sauce poured around, the directions for making which, will be found among the sweet sauces, page 167. Iiemon Fudding.-^Six ounces of flour, three ounces of butter, one-half gill of cold water, one grain of salt, three lemons; three ounces of bread crumbs^ five ounces of powdered sugar, one gill of cream, yolks of six eggs, whites of two eggs. ' Put the flour upon a mixing board and rub into it the ^ butter with the hands. Add to this the grain of salt, and making a little well in the centre of the flour, pour into it the cold water and knead all into a light dough. When kneaded, flour a rolling-pin and roll the dough out very thinly. Wet the edges of a vegetable dish with cold water, cut some strips from the paste three inches in width, and line with this the edge of the dish all aroun^, 148 PUDDINGS. Cut also from the dough some small lozenges about the size of a thimble top, and arrange these around the dish upon the lining of dough, letting them slightly overlap each other in describing the circle. Put the bread crumbs now into a bowl, and grate over' them the rind of the lemons. Add to this the sugar, and then squeeze over all the juice of the lemons. Drop into the bowl one by one the yolks of the eggs, beating the mixture well while dropping them. Pour the cream over all, whfip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and stir this in also, very lightly, when the mixture should be poured into the vegetable dish,, the dish be placed in a moderate oven, and the pudding baked for thirty minutes. Sir Watkia Wynnes Pudding. — Three ounces of beef suet, six ounces of bread crumbs, four ounces of sugar, two eggs, one and 'One-half tablespoonfuls of Orange marmalade. Take the skin from the suet and chop it very finely. Put this when chopped into a bowl and add to it the bread crumbs and marmalade. In a separate bowl place the sugar and eggs, beating them very lightly together, when this should be poured into the bowl with the suet, bread crumbs and marmalade, and mixed thoroughly together. Grease the inside of a pudding mould with butter, pour the preparation into it, put on the cover of the mould and putting this into a saucepan containing enough boiling water to cover it, boil the pudding therein for one hour and a half. When done remove the mould from the saucepan and the pudding from the mould, and placing the latter upon LLANBERRIES PUbDING. 149 a hot flat pudding dish, pour around it just before serving a lemon sauce ; to make which see directions on page 167. Bread and Butter Pudding. — Four slices of bread, one-half pint of milk, three eggs, one teaspoonful of lemon-juice, two ounces of curratits, two ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter. Remove the crusts from the bread and spread each slice with the butter. Grease with butter the inside of a deep pudding dish and place a slice of bread in the bottom thereof. Sprinkle over this a layer of currants, when a slice of bread should be placed upon top of these, another layer of currants sprinkled over this, and repeating this process arrange all of the bread and currants into the dish. Beat together in a bowl until very light the sugar and eggs, add to these the milk and lemon-juice, and pour this mixture over the preparation in the pudding dish. Let them stand for one hour, in order that the bread may absorb the liquid poured upon it, after which it must be baked in a quick oven twenty minutes, This pudding may be eaten with milk or cream. Notes. — Currants should always be washed long eriough before required foruse to enable them to become perfectly dry* otherwise they will cause » pudding or whatever they may be used in to be both sticky and heavy. They must be dried by exposure to the sun and air and not in an oven, as artificial heat hardens them, Iilanberries Pudding. — One-quarter of a pound of butter, one-quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, one- quarter of a pound of flour, two eggs, three tablespoonfuls of orange marmalade, one teaspoonful of baking powder. First put the butter into a bowl ^d beat it with the I50 PUDDINGS, sugar to a cream. Stir into this a little of the flour and a little of the marmalade alternately until the full quantity of each is stirred in. Drop into this mixture then the yolks of the eggs, sprinkle over these the baking-powder and beat all thoroughly together. Whip the whites of the eggs to astifif froth and stir this also into the bowl, taking care not to beat down the froth in the process. Grease with butter the inside of a pint and a half souffld tin, pour into it the pudding and bake in a mod- erate oven for one hour. Before placing the souffle tin into the oven, a band ot greased paper should be arranged around the top of the tin in order to keep the pudding from bursting over the sides should the heat of the oven cause it to rise quickly. When the pudding is done it should be turned out upon a hot flat dish and served with a custard sauce poured around it. The recipe for this sauce will be found upon page i68. Tapioca Fuddingi^ — Three ounces of tapibca, three gills of milk, one tablespoonful of sugar, two eggs, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg. Cover the tapioca with cold water twelve hours before the pudding is to be prepared, and let it soak in this until required. - When about to use, drain the tapioca as thoroughly as possible of the water, and when as dry as it can be made, put the tapioca into a saucepan, pour over it the milk, and placing it over the fire, stir slowly until the milk boils. Take the saucepan from the fire, place the eggs and sugar into a bowl, and beating them to a cream, pqur this into the saucepan with the tapioca and milk. VER TON P U DOING. \ 5 1 Grease with butter a deep pudding dish, pour into it the pudding, sprinkle over the top the grated nutmeg, and put all to bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Overton Pudding. — Seven ounces of flour, three ounces of butter, one-half teaspoonful of baking powder, one-half gill of cold water, three tablespdonsfuls of pre- served strawberries, three ounces of dry cake crumbs, one gill of milk, one teaspoonful of essence of vanilla, three ounces of powdered sugar, one saltspoonful of salt. First rub the cake crumbs through a coarse wire sieve into a bowl. Bring the milk to the boiling point, and pour it over the crumbs, to which add also the essence of vanilla. Place upon a mixing board the flour, and into this rub the butter with the hands, sprinkle oVer this the salt, make a hole in the centre of the flour, pour into it the cold water, and kneading from the edges into this, mix all to a light paste. Rub a little flour upon a rolling-pin, and with it roll out the paste to the thinness of a quarter of an inch, and cut from this ten lozenges about the size of a silver half dollar. Cut ten smaller lozenges of about half the circumfer- ence of the first, and, brushing a small platter over with cold water, roll the remaining crust out to the proper size, and line the platter therewith. Wet the edges of the lining paste with a little cold water, and arrange around them at equal distances, the largest lozenges. Upon these place the small lozenges, pressing them down in the cen- tre with the tip of the finger, spread over the centre sur- face of the crust-lined platter the preserved fruit, over this, spread the soaked cake crumbs, and sprinkle overall the sugar. 152 PUDDINGS. Place the platter into a quick oven, and let the pudding bake therein for twenty-five minutes. Serve upon the platter on which the pudding is made. Wakefield Pudding.— Four slices of bread, four tablespoonfuls of raspberry jam, one ounce of sugar, one ounce of corn starch, one-half pint of milk, two eggs. Cut the crust from the slices of bread, and place one of them in the bottom of a deep puddiiig dish. Spread over this a tablespoonful of the jam, an(^ so arrange alter- nate layers of bread and jam, one upon the other in the dish, until the given quantities of each are filled into it. Put the corn starch and sugar into a bowl, and moist- ening them with a tablespoonful of the milk, mix these together. Drop into this mixture the eggs, and beat all with a fork until very light. Put the remainder of the milk into a small saucepan over the fire, and when it boils pour it over the mixture in the bowl, stirring all the time while pouring. Pour the liquid preparation now over the bread and jam in the pudding dish, and) placing the pudding dish into a quick oven, bake its contents for half an houn Serve in the dish in which the pudding is prepared. English Plum Pudding.— One-half pound' of bread crumbs, one-half pound of beef suet, one-half pound of flour, one-half pound of sugar, one-half pound of rais- ins, one-half pound of curraiits, one teaspoonful of pow- dered cinnamon, one teaspoonful of powdered ginger, one-quarter pound of citron, rind of one lemon, one gill of milk, four eggs, one-half teaspoonful of baking-powder, one-quarter of a nutmeg. Chop the suet, after taking oflF the skin very finely, and put it together with the flour and bread crumbs into AMBER PUDDING. 153 a large bowl. Seed the raisins, wash and dry the currants thoroughly and mix these together, grate the lemon-rind and the nutmeg over them, and adding the ginger and cinnamon, mix all thoroughly together. Stir the fruit mixture into the bowl with the suet, add to this compound the sugar, baking-powder and citron, which must be cut into small thin pieces ; in a sepa- rate bowl beat the eggs until very light, add to them the milk, and when these are thoroughly ^lended, pour the liquid over the preparation in the large bowl, and stir all well together. Grease a quart pudding mould with but- ter, put the pudding into it and shut the cover securely over it, then plunging the mould into a large saucepan filled with boiling water, let the pudding boil therein for. four hours. When done, the pudding should be turned out upon a hot platter and served with brandy sauce, to prepare which, directions will be found on page 167. Note, — Plum paddings are prettier when boiled in a mould, but the traditional plum pudding is boiled in a double pudding cloth greased with butter for the purpose, and served with plain brandy poured over and around it, which is fired and the pudding so envel- oped in the historical blaze of glory. Amber Pudding. — Two pounds of apples, six ounces of flour, three ounces of butter, one gill of cold water, four eggs, rind of one lemon, three ounces of sugar, one-half tcaspoonful of baking powder, one grain •fsalt. Pare, quarter, and core the apples. Put into a small saucepan two ounces of sugar and half of the cold water, and place this over the fire ; when it boils put iutb it the apples and the lemon rind. Coyer the saucepan and let 154 PUDDINGS. its contents simmer very slowly until the apples are cooked, and while they are cooking, mix together upon a mixing board the flour and butter ; add to this the baking powder and salt, and knead all to a Ifght dough with the remaining cold water. Roll this dough out very thinly, cut it into strips about three inches wide, and wetting the' edges of a pudding dish with cold water, line them with the strips of dough, also cut some small lozenges from the fragments of dough remaining, and place them ornamentally around on the rim of dough. Take the apples from the saucepan, and pouring them into a sieve, rub them through it, in order to make them perfectly smooth. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, drop- ping the yolks into the apples, and putting the whites upon a dry plate. Stir the apples and yolks of eggs to- gether, and pour these when blended, into the pudding dish. The pudding dish must be placed in a quick oven and allowed to remain ten minutes to bake the paste arid cook the eggs, and while this is being done, whip the whites of eggs to a very stiff froth, and when the pudding is taken from the oven, pile this froth upon the top of the apple very high, and smooth it over with a knife blade. Sprinkle over this the remainder of the powdered sugar, and return the dish to the oven for two minutes, that the froth of egg may set and brown slightly on the surface. Serve this pudding hot. Veuoise Pudding. — Five ounces of wheat bread, four ounces of sugar, three ounces of sultana raisins, two ounces of citron, one glass of sherry, one-half pint of railk, yolks of four eggs, one teaspootiful of essence of vanilla. kAIL fVAV P VDDING. 1 5 5 Cut the bread into dice and place it into a large bowl with three ounces of the sugar. Cut the citron in small, thin pieces and put these also into the bowl. Place the raisins upon a towel and folding the ends of it over them rub them therein until the stems are all sep- arated, and adhering to the cloth ; then the raisins must be picked out and thrown into the bowl with the rest, and the sherry be poured over all. Put the remaining ounce of sugar into a small sauce- pan over the fire and let the sugar brown. Pour the milk over the sugar when brown, and drawing the saucepan aside from the fire stir the milk, until the sugar dissolves and colors it. Drop the yolks of eggs into a small bowl and over these pour the colored milk, stirring all together as the milk is poured in. ' Over the dry preparation in the, large bowl, pour the liquid from the small bowl, grease a proper sizeii pudding mould and into this put the pudding, secure over the top a greased piece of kitchen paper, place the mould into a saucepan containing sufficient boiling water to reach half way up its sides and allow the pudding to boil therein for one hour and a half. When done turn the pudding out upon a hot platter and serve with a German Sweet Sauce poured around, see page, i66. Railway Pudding. — One teacupful of powdered sugar, one teacupful of flour, one ounce of butter, one des- sert spoonful of baking powder, three eggs, one-half dozen drops of essence of almonds, one tablespoonful of milk. Grease thoroughly with the butter the inside of a bread tin. Mix together in a large bowl the flour and sugar, and add to these when mixed the baking powder. 156 PUDDINGS. Break the eggs into a small bowl and beat thent until very light, poui in with them the milk, drop into this the essence of almpnds and when these are well stirred to- gether pour all over the preparation in the large bowl. Now stir all together and when this is done pour the mixture into the bread tin, and placing this in a very quick oven bake it for ten minutes. When baked take the pudding from the oven, cut it into six or eight equal pieces and arranging these upon a flat dish, sprinkle over them a little powdered sugar. A wine sauce should be sent to the table with this to be poured in ladlefuls over the pieces of pudding as.they are served. See sauces page, 168. Notes. — This pudding should be put into the oven immediately after it is mixed. The baking-powder begins to ferment the instant that it is moistened and it is this process which must be take^ advan- tage of in baking quickly, to raise the pudding and make it light. This pudding may also be used as a tea cake and when so served the pieces should be split open and a spoonful of preserved fruit spread between the slices. Chocolate Pudding. — One-quarter of a pound of grated chocolate, one pint of milk, one-half ounce of gela- tine, two ounces of sugar, one teaspoonful of essence of vanilla, yolks of four eggs, one-half gill of cold water. Cover the gelatine with the cold water and allow it to soak therein for ten minutes. Place the gelatine when dissolved into a small saucepan ; put it over the fire and stir slowly until melted, taking care that it does not boil. When melted take the saucepan from the fire and allow the gektine to cool a little. Mix together the milk and grated chocolate, until they come to a smooth paste , then in a fresh saucepan stir the iTAUAN PUDDING. 157 mixture over the fire until boiling. Drop the yolks of eggs into a bowl, cover them with the sugar and pour ovei all the hot chocolate mixture. Return this compound to the saucepan, place it over the fire and let its contents cook for two minutes, stirring constantly to prevent boiling. Remove the saucepan at the end of this time from the fire ; stir into the mixture it contains the melted gelatine and drop in the essence of vanilla. Dip a pint and a half mould into cold water (o wet it inside and so prevent the pudding sticking ; pour into it the pudding and set it away in a cool dry place, until the gelatine congeals and the pudding has ' set ' in the mould, and when this transpires turn the pudding out upon a crystal dish and serve. Italian Pudding. — One-half of a quart can of pre- served peaches, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, two eggs, one gill of milk, one teaspoonful of lemon-juice, two ounces of sugar. Arrange upon a flat dish a layer of the peaches ; cover this with with a blanket of the bread crumbs, and in this way arrange alternate layers of the fruit and bread crumbs until the specified quantity be used. Put the yolks of the eggs into a bowl and with them one ounce of sugar, bring the gill of milk to the boiling point and pouring this over the yolks of eggs and sugar, stir all together and throw into the mixture the lemon- juice. Pour this liquid over the fruit and bread crumbs by spoonfuls, in order that it may be absorbed thereby — and the preparation so become moistened but not juicy; when this is done place the pudding in a moderate oven 158 PUDDINGS. and bake it for half an hour. At the end of this time take the pudding from the oven, beat the whites of the eggs to a light froth and pile this roughly upon the top of it. Sprinkle over all the remaining ounce of sugar, place the dish once more in the oven for five minutes, to firm the froth of egg and brown it also slightly. Serve at once. Note. — This pudding may also be made with preserved apples or pears as taste or convenience may dictate. Apple Dumplings. — Five apples, twelve ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, one ounce of sugar, one tea- spoonful of baking powder, one and one-half gills of cold water, one' saltspoonful of salt. Rub this flour and butter together in a bowl, add to them the baking powder and the salt, and with the cold water mix all to a firm dough. Place this dough upon a mixing board, and cut it into five equal pipces. Pare the apples now very thinly, and take from them their cores, leaving the form of the apple unbroken. Roll the dough into balls, and taking an apple, work it into the centre of a ba,ll of the dough ; and just before closing the ball so formed at the top, put into the place of the apple cores, a portion of the sugar. When the apples are all prepared in this way with the dough and ' sugar, place them into a baking tin, and the baking tin into a quick oven for half an hour. , At the end of half an hour test the dumplings with a skewer, and if the apples be not soft to the centre, they must renjain in the oven until the skewer proves them entirely done. SWISS msSOLMS. 15^ When done, take them from the oven, brush each over with a little milk, sprinkle them with a little sugar, and return all to the oven for one minute, and serve them with a hard sauce, directions for making which, will be found on page 168. Swiss Rissoles. — One-half pound of pears, one- quarter pound of raisins, two ounces of sugar, eight ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, one egg, one-half gill of cold water, one-half of a lemon. First pare and core the pears, cut them into small pieces, squeeze into a saucepan the juice of the lemon, add to it half of the cold water and an ounce and a half of the sugar, and placing the saucepan over the fire, let its contents come to the boiling point ; when boiling, throw into it the pears, also the raisins, and let them cook therein very slowly for half an hour. When done, turn the mixture out upon a plate. When quite cool make up a crust by mixing upon a board the flour and butter, make a hole in the centre of this into which drop the yolk of egg, pour over the reniaining cold water, and knead all lightly together. Roll this out to about an inch in thickness, and cut it into pieces about four inches square. Beat the white of the egg lightly, and brush the edges of the crust with it ; put into each of these squares an equal quantity of the cold mixture from the plate, fold the edges together, brush over each a little of the white of egg, sprinkle over each a little of the sugar, and placing the rissoles upon a slightly floured baking tin, bake them in a modeirate oven for half an hour. Serve in a folded napkin. Feaoh-Sago. — One quart of peaches, one-half pound of sago, three ounces of sugar, one pint of cold water. i6o puhdings. Put the sago into a pudding dish, cover it with the cold water and allow it to soak therein for two hours. And when the sago is sufficiently soaked, skin and stone the peaches, place them regularly upright in the sago, sprinkle over all the sugar, and placing the pudding dish into a moderate oven, let the pudding bake for one hour. Serve hot. Com Starch Pudding.— Four tablespoonsfuls of corn starch, one quart of milk, two ounces of sugar, one saltspoonful of salt, two bay leaves, two eggs. Put the milk into a saucepan over the fire, and while it is heating, moisten the com starch with a little cold milk, and beat it smooth, just before the milk reaches the boiling point, crush the bay leaves in the hands that the flavor may be more readily drawn out, and throw them into the milk, after which stir in the corn starch. Stir all constantly until boiling, and when boiling allow this to continue for five minutes, still stirring to pre- vent scorching, which the com starch and milk are both apt to do. Draw the saucepan then aside from tlie fire to let its contents cool a little, and in the time allowed for this beat together the eggs and sugar. Add to the sugar and eggs the salt, and removing the bay leaves from the mix- ture in the saucepan,, stir into it the sugar aftd eggs, after which all must be poured into a small pudding dish, and this be placed in a moderate oven and permitted to bake for ten minutes. This pudding should be served hot. Note.— Com starch felanc-mange may be prepared exactly as is is the above pudding, except that the eggs must be left out, and in- tiVELFTH-DA V PaNCAKjSS. i6i stead of being baked, the preparation must be poured into moulds and allowed to stand iu them until cooled into forms. This blanc- mange is served with jam or jelly, and sweet cream. Twelfth-Day Pancakes. — Three ounces of flour, two eggs, one-half pint of milk, one ounce of sugar, one saltspoonful of salt, one'half of a lemon, three ounces of butter. Put the flour into a large bowl. In the centre of this make a little well, into which drop the yolks of the eggs. Sprinkle over these the salt, and pouring in upon this little by little the milk, mix the flour into the centre from the sides until all the milk is added, andithe flour thor- oughly mixed with the other ingredients, the yolks of eggs thus helping to prevent the flour lumping through the small percentage of oil which they contain. Whip the whites of eggs now to a stiff" froth, and stir this lightly into the batter, and when this is done melt one-fourth of the butter in a frying-pan, pour into this one-quarter of the batter from the bowl, and when this browns upon one side, turn it over with a pancake shovel or broad bladed knife, taking care not to break the cake in the process. When the second side is browned also, remove the cake to a plate, sprinkle it with a little of the sugar, squeeze over this a few drops of the lemon juice, roll the pancake quickly into a round roll, sprinkle over the top a little more of the sugar and a little more of the lemon- juice, and place it upon a platter to keep hot while the others are being fried. Divide the remaining batter into three equal parts, and in the manner above described pour into the frying- pan, fry and turn each portion until the three other pan- i62 Puddings. cakes are sugared, sprinkled with the lemon juice, rolled and placed beside the first, when they may be arranged in the fashion of a cob-house, or as the fancy may direct upon the hot platter, and should be served at once. Note. — This batter may also be fried in smaller sized cakes, and served, well buttered and very hot, as a breakfast dish. Rice Pudding.— One and one-half pints of milk, one-half a pound of rice, two ounces of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one egg, one ounce of butter. Grease a deep pudding dish thoroughly inside with the butter and pour into this the milk into which stir the dry rice. Cover the dish with a plate, to confine the steam and prevent premature browning on the top should the oven be very hot, and placing all in a moderate oven let the pudding bake slowly for an hour and a half by which time the kernels of rice will have soaked, and swelling absorbed nearly all of the milk, leaving the grains beau- tifully whole and the pudding devoid of the glutinous paste which by stirring processes is developed from the starch-flour of the broken rice. Ten minutes before re- moving the pudding from the oven beat the egg until very light, add to it the sugar and salt, and taking the plate oiif, of the pudding dish stir this mixture into the pudding, and allow to bake for the remaining ten minutes uncovered that it may brown on the surface. Serve with hard sauce directions for, making which may be found on page i68. Note. — This pudding may be further enriched by the addition of a quarter of a pound of raisins or if desired more plain than as above the egg may be omitted and the sugar alone stirred in when the pud< ding is uncovered to permit its browning, CAPER SAUCE. 163 SWEET AND SAVORY SAUCES. SAVORY SAUCES. Oyster Sauce. — One pint of oysters, one-half pint of milk, two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg. Drain the liquor from the oysters. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir into it the flour and add to this by degrees the liquor from the oysters. When this mixture boils, throw into it the oysters and boil all together until the leaves of the fish begin to shrivel. Throw in the pepper, salt and nutmeg, and having boiled the milk in a separate saucepan, stir it in also ; then the saucepan must at once be removed from the fire otherwise the milk will curdle and the sauce be ruined. Egg Sauce. — One and one-half ounces of butter, three quarters of an ounce of flour, three gills of milk, one saltspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of white pepper, two hard boiled eggs. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir into it the flour and by degrees add to these the milk. When this mijrture boils, throw into it the pepper and salt and let all cook together for two minutes. Remove the shells from the eggs, chop them into small irregular pieces, and stir these in. When this is done, the sauce is ready for use. Caper Sauce. — Two ounces of butter, one ounce of flour, one-half pint of milk, one-half pint of cold water one-half teaspoonful of white pepper, one-half teaspoon- ful of salt, two tablespoonf'.'ls of capers. 164 SWEE T AND SA yOS Y SA UCES. Put the butter into a small saucepan and let it melt. Stir into this the flour and the milk ; when this comes ^o the boiling point, by degrees pour in the water. Let the mixture again boil up, season with the pepper and salt, and let all boil together for two minutes. At the end of this time throw in the capers and retaove the saucepan from the fire, the sauce being now ready for use. Note.— When this sauce is i»epared to be used with a leg of mut ton, a half pint of the liquor from the boiling meat may be substitu- ted for the cold water with ej^cellent flavoring effect. Mint Sa,tice. — Two tablespoonfuls of chopped mint, six tablespoonfuls of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of cold water, three tablespoonfuls of sugar. The mint before beipg chbpped should be thoroughly washed, and when washed and chopped it must be placed in a gravy boat, the vinegar and water poured over it, and throvi^ing the sugar in to this, all should be stirred until the sugar melts. This sauce is designed for roast spring lamb. •I"" "' Note. — Two tablespoonfuls of white wine are sometimes substitu- ted for the cold water in preparing this sauce. Tartare Sauce. — ^Yolks of two eggs, one gill of salad oil, one saltspoonful of salt, one-half saltspoonful of pepper, one tablespoonful of white wine vinegar, one- half teaspoonful of French mustard, one tablespoonful of gherkins. The vinegar and yolks of eggs must first be slightly beaten together in a small bowl. Add to these drop by drop the salad oil, taking^ care to stir one way all the BREAD SAUCE. 165 time. When this is done, season the mixture with the pepper, salt and mustard, add also the gherkins, finely chopped, and serve in a gravy boat with boiled salmon or cold meats. Nof E. — Capers may be used for this sauce if preferred, or if the < gherkins are not obtainable. Onion Sauce. — Two Spanish onions, one ounce of butter, one-half ounce of flour, three gills of milk, one saltspoonful of salt, one-half saltspoonful of pepper. Preparatory to making this sauce, soak the onions over night in water which must have been poured over them boiling. When required, take the onions from the soak, put them into a saucepan, and covering them with boiling water let them boil therein for half an hour. When boiled, take them from the water, chop them finely, and placing them in a bowl, cover them at once with the milk, in order to preserve their color. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the flour, and into this pour the onion and milk, when all must be allowed to come to the boiling point, and the pepper and salt then being added, the sauce must be permitted to boil thereafter for two minutes when it will be ready to serve. Bread Sauce. — Two ounces of bread, one-half pint of milk, one Bermuda onion, six pepper corns, one salt- spoonful of salt, one-half gill of white stock. Put the bread broken into convenient pieces into a bowl and cover it with jthe milk. Throw into the bowl also the onion, pepper corns and salt, together with the stock. Stir all together, after which, pouring the mixture l66 SWEET AND SAVORY SAUCfiS. into a small saucepan and placing this over the fire, allow all to cook slowly for half an hour. Skim out at the end of this time the pepper corns and onion, and serve the sauce in a gravy boat with roast fowl. Brown Sauce. — One carrot, one turnip, one-half stalk of celery, 6ne tablespponful of mushroom catsup, six drops of caramel, |wo ounces of butter, three quarter ounces of flour, three gills of second stock, one saltspoon- ful of salt, one-half saltspoonful of pepper. Melt the butter in a frying pan, and washing and paring the turnip and carrot, slice these into the melted butter, also the celery. Brown the vegetables well upon both sides and when this is done stir in the flour. Add by degrees the stock, stirring all constantly ; when the mixture boils, season it with the salt and pepper, and flavor with the catsup. Let all cook for two minutes, then drop in the caramel, and strain the sauce into a gravy boat for serving. This gravy is served with fried meats or 'fish, or broiled steak and cutlets. SWEET AND SAVORY SAUCES, SWEET SAUCES. German Street Sauce. — Yo^lks of two eggs, one gill of sherry, one tablespoonful of sugar, one tablespoon- ful of cream. Put the yolks of eggs into a small saucepan, pour dver them the sherry and whisk these slightly with an egg- whisk. Add the' cream and sugar and placing the saucepan over a very slow fire, continue to use the egg- BRANDY SAUCE. 167 whisk until the froth arises and from it the escaping steam. Remove the sauce from the fire and serve. Jam Sauce. — One heaped tablespoonful of jam, one-half ounce of sugar, one gill of sherry, one tablespoon- ul of cold water, six drops of cochineal. , Place the jam in a small saucepan, poiir over it the sherry and water, add to these the sugar and stir all over a brisk fire until the mixture boils. When boiling drop in the cochineal and the sauce is ready for serving. Lemon Sauce. — One lemon, six pieces of cut loaf sugar, one teacupful of cold water. Pare the rind from the lemon and cut this into strips the size of a straw. Put these straws of lemon-rind into a small saucepan together with the lumps of sugar and covering these with the cold water squeeze into the mix- ture the juice of the lemon. Put the saucepan over the fire and stir the contents until boiling ; when this takes place cover the saucepan, and drawing it to one side of 4he fire, let all simmer slowly for twenty minutes. This sauce should be poured over the pudding with which it is served, in order that the straws of lemon-rind may garnish the top of the pudding. Brandy Sauce. — One ounce of butter, one-half ounce of flour, one-half pint of cold water, one wine- glassful of brandy, one ounce of sugar. The butter must first be melted in a small saucepan, the flour stirred into it, and the water then added. When this comes to the boiling point let it continue to boil for two minutes, add the brandy and sugar, and ^hen all is well stirred together, it is ready for serving. l68 SWEE T AND SA VOR V SA UCES,. Hard Sauce. — One-quarter pound of sugar, one quarter pound of butter, one-quarter of a nutmeg, white of one egg. , Put the sugar and butter together in a bowl and beat them to a cream, taking- care that the butter does not oil, which may be prevented by keeping it cool. Whip the white of egg to a stiff froth, and mix this lightly into the bowl. When this is done put the sauce into a crystal dish for serving, and grate over it the nut- meg. Custard Sauce.— Two eggs, three gills of milk, one dessert spoonful of sugar, one saltspoonful of grated nut- meg. Place the eggs in a bowl and beat them until, very light: Pour them into a quart pitcher, place the pitcher into a saucepan of boiling water, and throwing in the milk, stir it together with the eggs until they begin to thicken. Take the pitcher from the boiling water, stir the sugar and nutmeg into its contents, and pour the sauce around the pudding, with which it is to be served. Jelly Sauce. — Two heaped tablespoonfuls of cur- rant jelly, one-half of a lemon, one wineglassful of sherry, one ounce of sugar, six drops of cochineal, one saltspoon- ful of mace. Put the jelly into a small saucepan, squeeze over it the, juice of the lemon, add to this the sugar and wine, place the saucepan over the fire and stir its contents until the jelly melts ; then the cochineal and mace should be axlded, and the instant after this that the sauce boils, it is ready for serving. , yrine Sauce. — Two ounces of butter, three ounces ICED PUDDING. \tii^ of sugar, one and one-half gills of boiling water, one gill of sherry, one-half saltspoonful of grated nutmeg. Beat the sugar and butter to a cream in a bowl, pour over these the boiling water, stirring meantime, place the mixture into a saucepan and stir all over the fire until very hot, not however, allowing it to boil. Add the sherry and nutmeg, and the sauce may at once be poured around the pudding with which it .s to be served. ICES, CREAMS AND JELLIES. ICES. loed Pudding. — Three gills of milk, three gills of cream, yolks of twelve eggs, ten ounces of sugar, six ounces of crystalized fruits, one small wine-glassful of brandy, one small wine-glassful of curacoa. Mix very thoroughly together the yolks of eggs, cream and milk. Place this mixture into a quart pitcher, and putting this into a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, stir the compound constantly until the egg yOlks begin to thicken all. Take the pitcher from the water, stir the sugar in with its contents, and allow this to stand until the cus- tard is quite cold. POur it into the freezer, and when it thickens by freezing to a thick batter and cleaves from th; sides in lumps, take the fruit, pour over it a little boiling water, and draining this off at once, cut the fruit into small pieces, throw upon them the curacoa and brandy, and turning this mixture into the half-frozen custard, freeze all until stiff enough to mould. Pour cold water into a quart mould, and having thor- I70 ICES. CREAMS AND JELLIES. oughly wetted the inside thereof, stick some of the crys- talized fruits around the sides and into the bottom of the mould for the purpose of garnishing the pudding. Then work the frozen mixture smoothly into the mould, taking care that it is packed evenly into all of the crevices, pack the mould in ice, and let it remain for one hour, when it will be ready to turn out and serve. Note. — Rock salt should be mixed with the ice used for freezing creams and puddings^ as it increases the degree of cold, and prevents the ice from melting. Frozen Pudding G-lao^ ; or Tutti-frutti.— One-quarter pound of raisins, one pint of milk, yolks of two eggs, one-quarter pound of powdered sugar, two ounces of sweet almonds, two ounces of candied cherries, two ounces of citron, two limes, one pint of cream, one inch stick of cinnamon. Stem and seed the raisins, put them into a saucepan with the milk and cinnamon, and placing this over the fire, let all simmer together for twenty minutes. While this is simmering, place the yolks of eggs and the sugar into a bowl and beat them well. At the end of the twenty ininutes strain the raisins and cinnamon from the milk, throw the cinnamon away and put the raisins aside for further use. Pour the strained milk over the yolks of eggs and sugar, and stirring them well together, return the mixture to the saucepan ; place this over the fire, still stirring, and allow the yolks of eggs to thicken, taking care that the milk does not boil. Take the saucepan from the fire, allow its con- tents to become quite cold, and while awaiting this, pour STRAWBERRY WATMR ICE. 171 boiling water over the almonds to blanch them, remove their skins and chop them very finely. Cut the limes each into quarters, and the citron into very small thin pieces, add these all altogether with the cherries and raisins to the custard when it becomes cold, pour in upon them the cream, and stirring all well together, throw the pudding into the freezer and allow it to freeze until it is firm enough to mould ; then it should be firmly worked into a quart mould, which must have been wet with cold water to keep the mixture from sticking, and the mould packed into ice for one hour, that the pud- ding may form and firm. Iiemou Water Ice. — Four lemons, one-half pound of sugar, one and one-half pint of boiling water. Grate the rind from the lemons into a bowl, squeeze upon this the juice, add to this the sugar and, pour over all the boiling water, stirring the mixture meantime until ..horoughly blended. Allow the preparation to stand until quite cold, after which strain it through a horse-hair sieve or a piece of muslin and throwing it into a freezer, freeze until very hard ; then the freezer must be packed in fresh ice to keep its contents from melting, and the water ice should be served from this, as required. Note. — Lemon water ices should be tasted always before frozen in order that more sugar may be added to the preparation, if it be found not to have the desired sweetness. Stravrberry Water Ice. — One pint of fresh strawberries, one and one-half pints of cold water, one-half of a lemon, three ounces of sugar, six drops of cochineal. Put the fruit upon ahbrse-hair sieve, sprinkle over it 172 ICES, CREAMS AND JELLIES. a little of the sugar and rub all through the sieve. Mix the cold water with this strawberry syrup, add the sugar, squeeze in the juice of thp lemon, drop fai also the cochi- neal and stir them all well together ; pour the mixture into a freezer, freeze it until hard and pack the freezer in fresh ice to preserve its contents in a frozen condition until served. Iced Soufi9,€. — Yolks of six eggs, whites of two eggs, one, pint of milk, two ounces of sugar, one-half tea: spoonful of grated nutmeg, one pint of double cream. Beat the whites and yolks of eggs together, add to these tjie nutmeg and sugar and, heating the milk until almost at the boiling point, pour this over the mixture, stirring all together while pouring in the milk. Pour this into the saucepan in which the milk was boiled, and stir.it ovei the fire until the eggs begin to thicken, but exerci^np great care that the milk does not again boil; v Put the custard into a bowl and allow it to stand until quite cold ; then one-half pint of the cream should be stirred in and the whole be poured into a freezer and frozen until stiff enough to tie conveniently moulded. Work the frozen custard into a pint and a half souflle tin. Tie around the souffle tin a sheet of kitchen paper in such a manner as to increase the depth of the tin five or six inches. Whip the remaining cream to a stiff froth, pile this upon the Jop of the frozen custard', and setting the tin with its contents into a freezer, pile around this sufficient ice and rock salt to freeze the souffl^. This should be transferred carefully, when fiiozen, to a silver souffl^ dish, or served in the tin in which it is pre- pared, with a napkin folded around the same. VANILLA ICE CREAM. 173 ICES, CREAMS AND JELLIES. CREAMS. Strawberry Ice Cream.— One pint of milk, four eggs, one and one-half pints of fresh strawberries, one quart of cream, one-half pound of sugar. Beat the eggs until very light, make the milk hot and pour it over them. Pour these together into a saucepan and stir them over the fire until the egg begins to thicken. Transfer the custard to a bowl and allow it to cool. In the meantime place the strawberries into a hair sieve, sprinkle over them a little sugar and then rub them through the sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. When this is done add the sugar to the syrup so formed and when the custard has become quite cold, stir the fruit mixture into it. Add the cream and stirring this well through the custard, pour all into a freezer, and freeze until quite solid, stirring the cream down from the sides from time to time, to keep it smooth while freezing unless the freezer be arranged to do this while being turned. Note, — In mixing rock salt with tlie ice to be used for freezing creams, etc. great care should be taken that not even a drop of salted water falls into the freezer itself, as the smallest quantity of salt inside will make the cream most diflScult to freeze, and when frozen, cause it to melt quickly. Veuailla Ice Cream. — One quart of cream, three pints of milk, one pound of sugar, eight eggs, four tea- spoonfuls oc essence of vanilla. Beat the eggs until very light, and heating the milk, pour it over them, stirring both well together. Place the eggs and milk in a bright saucepan, and stir 174 IP^S, CREAMS AND ySLLIES. them over the fire until the eggs begin to thicken, not however allowing the mixture to boil, Pour the mixture into a large bowl, and when it becomes quite cool add to it the cream, vanilla, and sugar; when these are thoroughly stirred together, pour the custard into the freezer and freeze it moderately hard, remembering, to stir the cream down from the sides oc- casionally while it is being frozen, if the freezer be not arranged so as to make this unnecessary. Notes. — ^All fruit creams maybe made after the method here given for strawberry ice-cream, and all flavoring essences may be used as the vanilla is used in the above, which constitutes the only difference existing between the various creams made from extracts or essences. A delicious cream called Lalla Rookh, is made by the simple ad- dition of a small quantity of fine rum to each service of vanilla ice- cream, which must be stirred in as the cream \s eaten, and the amount of which may be regulated by the taste. Orange Cream.— One-half ounce of gelatine, one gill of cold water, one-quarter pound, of cut loaf sugar, one gill of milk, yolks of three eggs, one-half pint of double cream, four oranges, two lemons. First soak the gelatine in cold water for ten minutes, then taking the lumps of sugar rub them over the rinds of the oranges and lemons in order that the sugar may become impregnated with the flavor. Squeeze over the flavored Ivtmps of sugar then the juice of the oranges and lemons, pour upon them the milk, and stir all over the fire until the sugar melts, exercising the greatest care that the milk does not boil during the time, as boil< ing will cause it to curdle and spqil the cream. Place the yolks of eggs into a large bowl, pour over them the prepared milk and stir all together, when the CffAXLOTTS kUSSM. 175 whole must be put into a saucepan and placed over the fire for two minutes to remove the raw taste of the eggs, and this being done the cream should be again turned into the bowl and left to cool. Now whip the double cream to a stiff froth, mix it lightly into the bowl when its contents have cooled, melt the soaked gelatine over the fire, not allowing- it to boil in the process, add it also to the preparation in the bowl, , and stir all together ; continue to stir the cream occa- sionally until the gelatine in it blends with the other in- gredients and begins to firm, otherwise it will sink to the bottom directly, and reunite in one firm mass as it cools. Prepare a mould by dipping it into cold \<^ater to pre- vent sticking, and pouring the cream into this, set it away in a dry cool place to harden and set into form. Charlotte Russe. — One-half pint of double cream, one-half ounce of gelatine, one-half gill of cold water, one ounce of sugar, one teaspoonful of essence of vanilla, white of one egg, one-quarter pound of lady-fingers, one dozen candied cherries. Cover the gelatine with cold water and soak it for ten minutes. Put the cream into a bowl, and with an egg- whisk bring it to a very stiff froth, add to this the sugar and vanilla, then melt the gelatine over the fire and pour it into the cream very carefully. Now whip the white of egg to a stiff froth, and stir this also into the bowl, being careful not to beat down the froth while stirring, after which prepare the lady-fin- gers by splitting them apart and cutting the sides of each so that they may fit squarely together, and line a pint souffi6 tin, with these placed perpendicularly. Pick the cherries up one by one ^ith a skewer, and t76 ICES, CREAMS AND JELLIMS. dipping them into cold water arrange them in any fanciful form in the, bottom of the tin ; when the cream has commenced to firm a little in the bowl, pour it into the mould very carefully, in order that the wall of lady- fingers may not become disarranged, and set the whole away to harden. When the charlotte russe has firmed sufficiently to be turned out of the mould, transfer it to a dessert dish, using care not to break its shape or to disarrange the cherries which garnish the top. Notes. — Charlotte nisse may also be made by baking a sponge cake in very thin sheets as for rolled jelly-cake, and cutting this into lengths about four inches wide and ten long, form these into small cups, sticking the'm together by brushing a little white of egg between the over-lapping ends. Arrange tiie cake cups upon a platter, placing a round of orna- mental paper under each, fill them two-thirds full with the cream prepared as above, and when this hardens, whip sufficient white of egg to a stiff froth, and fill up the cups, placing upon the top of each a small lozenge cut for the purpose from the sponge cake. When filled they should be covered over with a sheet of paper and placed in the oven for a moment to "set" the- white of egg' froth, when - they are ready to serve. The lozenges upon the top of each may be garnished with a raisin or candied cherry if desired. Rice Cream. — Two large tablespoonfuls of finely eracked rice, one pint of milk, one ounce of butter, two ounces of cut loaf sugar, rind of one lemon, one-half ounce of gelatine, one-half pint of double cream. Prepare the gelatine by soaking it in the milk for one hour. Put into a fresh, bright saucepan the butter, stir int^ it the rice, which must be as fine but not finer than granulated sugar, add to this by degrees the milk and gelatine and rubbing the lumps of sugar upon the rind VELVET CREAM. 177 of the lemon to flavor them, throw these into the sauce- pan, place the saucepan over the fire and stir its contents until the sugar melts and the mixture boils. Allow the boiling to continue for five minutes ; at the end of which time pour the compound into a bowl and set it aside until it becomes nearly cold. Beat the cream to a stiff froth, stir it lightly into the bowl, and pour all into a mould which must have pre- viously been prepared by being dipped into cold water, after which the mould should be packed in ice until the cream becomes sufficiently firm to turn out and serve. Rice cream should be served with raspberry jam sur rounding it. Velvet Cream. — One ounce of gelatine, one-halt pint of white wine, one lemon, three ounces of cut loaf, one pint of double cream, one-half gill of cold water. Cover the gelatine with cold water and let it soak for ten minutes. Rub upon the rind of the lemon three or four of the lumps of sugar to flavor them, and placing these pieces of sugar in a copper or porcelain lined saucepan, squeeze over them the juice of the lemon, add to these the wine and the remainder of the sugar, together with the soaked gelatine and stir all over the fire until the gelatine melts. Pour the mixture from the saucepan through a strainer intO' a bowl and allow all to cool. When cool, whip the cream to a stiff froth, mix it lightly with the strained pr^aration, and pouring the cream so completed into a mould, pack the mould in ice and allow it to remain therein until its contents become firm enough to turn out in proper form and serve. tfS ICES, CREAMS AND fELLlE^. ICES CREAMS AND JELLIES. JELLIES. Iiemon Jelly;— One and one-half ounces of gelatine, one pint of cold water, rind of two lemons, juice of three lemons, one inch of stick cinnamon, three ounces of lump sugar, one and one-half gills of sherry, whites of two eggs. Cover the gelatine with cold water and allow it to soak for ten minutes, after which pour all into a copper or por- celain-lined saucepan adding the rind and juice of the lemons. Throw into this the wine, stick of cinnamon and sugar and stir all over the fire until the gelatine melts. Put the whites of eggs into a bowl, whisk them slightly with an egg-whisk, pour them iftto the saucepan and continue using the egg- whisk in this until the liquid boils. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, cover it, and allow its contents to simmer slowly for ten minutes. Dip a flannel bag into t;epid water, pour the contents of the water through it, and pouring the jelly into a mould, stand this upon ice, and when it has con- gealed and become firm, serve it turned out upon a crys- tal jelly dish. Orange Jelly. — Eight sweet oranges, two lemons, one-quarter pound of sugar, one gill of cold water, one ounce of gelatine. Cover the gelatine with half of the cold water, and let it soak for ten minutes. Put this into a saucepan, add to it the sugar with the remainder of the cold water, and stir all over the fire until the gelatine and sugar melt. CALF S FOOT JELLY. , 179 Take the saucepan from the fire and having pressed out the juice of the oranges and lemons and strained it, add this to the contents of the saucepan, after which pour the mixture into a mould and stand the mould upon ice : when it becomes jelly, turn it out upon a crystal or other jelly plate, and serve. Calf's foot JeUy. — Two calf's feet, juice of two lemons, rinds of thtee lemons, one-quarter pound of cut loaf sugar, ten cloves, one inch of cinnamon stick, whites of three egg, one-half gill of sherry wine, three pints of cold water. Cut the feet into three pieces — ^across the first joint and through the hoof. Place them in a large saucepan cover them with cold water, and putting the saucepan over the fire, bring all quickly to the boiling point. When the water boils take the feet from the saucepan, and throwing them into a basin of cold water, wash them thoroughly. Put the feet when washed into a copper or porcelain- lined saucepan, pour over them the three pints of cold water, put the saucepan over the fire and when the water boils, draw it to one side and let its contents simmer very slowly for five hours. Strain the liquor through a horsehair sieve, or if this be not convenient, through a coarse towel, let the stock so extracted stand over night, and then removing the grease which will have gathered upon the top, dip a towel in boiling water and wash the surface of the stock which will be found quite firm, having stood for twelve hours. Now put the stock into a» copper or porcelain-lined saucepan, and placing this over the fire let it melt. Add l80 ICES, CREAMS AND JELLIES. to the melted stock the cinnamon stick, lemon rind and juice, sugar and cloves. Put the whites of eggs together with the shells which must have been blanched with boiling water, into a bowl, beat them slightly and pour them into the saucepan, con- tinuing to use the egg-whisk until all is boiling. When this point is reached, draw the satucepan imme- diately to the side of the fire, and allow its contents to simmer for ten minutes. During this time prepare a flannel, or what is better a felt ba,g, by pouring through it a little tepid water, and when' the jelly has simmered ten minutes, pour it through this bag into a bowl, and repeat the process of strain- ing until the jelly becomes perfectly clear. Pour it into a mould, and stirring into it the sherry, place the mould upon ice or in a very cool place until the jelly sets and becomes firm enough to turn out and serve. NOTK. — Brandy may be substituted for the Aeiiy in this prepara- tion if desired, and half brandy and half sherry is sometimes used to make up the quantity prescribed. Iiemon Sponge^ — One ounce of gelatine, one pint of water, two lempns, one-half pound of cut loaf sugar, whites of three eggs. Put the gelatine into a bowl, cover it with the cold water and let it soak for twenty minutes. At the end of this time add to it the. rind of the lemons, squeeze over the lemon juice, throw in the sugat and pour all into a copper or porcelain-lined saucepan, place the saucepan over the fire and stir its contents until boiling, after which it must be allowed to boil for two minutes. At the end of this time pour the mixture through a APPLE TRANSPARENCY. jgi sieve into a bowl, and let it remain therein until cold, but not long enough to set. Beat the whites of eggs slightly, pour them into the mixture in the bowl and stir all together, when all must be whisked with an egg-whisk until thick and white, which will take nearly or quite half an hour. Pour the sponge into a mould, stand this in a cool dry place, and when " set " turn it out upon, and serve in a ■crystal dessert dish. Apple Transparency. — Six large apples, one pint of water, one-half pound of cut loaf sugar, rind of one lemon, six drops of cochineal, one-half ounce of gelatine, white of one egg. Put the gelatine into a bowl, and pour over it half a gill of the cold water, and allow' it to soak in this for half an hour. Pare the apples and take the core from them without breaking the form of the fruit. Put the sugar into a shallow saucepan and with it the lemon rind, pour over this the remainder, of the cold water, and stir all until boiling. Into this syrup throw the apples, cover the saucepan, and placing it over the fire, let all cook very slowly until the apples become ten- der, and may easily be pierced through with a skeWer or fork. Remove the apples without breaking them, and place them in a crystal dish. Throw the gelatine into the syrup that remains in the saucepan, stir all until the gelatine is melted, pour the mixture through a strainer into a bowl, add to it the cochineal, and stand the bowl in a cool dry place until fhe syrup conceals. 1 82 PIES AND PASTRIES. ' Cut the jelly so made into rough pieces, distribute it among the apples in the dessert dish, and whipping the white of egg to a stiff froth, garnish the dish with this. Note. — Double cream is cream that has been twenty-fours hours in rising. Single cream rises in tnrelve hours, and cream for butter requires forty-eight. PIES AND PASTRIES. PASTRIES. Fuff Paste. — One-quarter pound of butter, one- quarter pound of flour, yolk of one egg, one-half gill of cold water, six drops of lemon juice. Sift the flour through a fine sieve upon a mixing board. Put the yolk of egg into a small bowl and add to it the lemon juice and cold water, beating these together with a fork. \ Make a well then in the centre of the flour, pour into it by degrees the mixture from the bowl and mixing in the flour from the sides, knead all firinly together. Flour a rolling-pin and roll the paste out very thinly, place the butter in the corner of a towel, and covering it with the opposite corner, press out in this any moisture that the butter may contain, spread it upon half of the crust, fold the other half oyer it, and press the edges tightly together. Roll this out again very thinly, taking care that the butter does not escape between the edgfes. Fold the crust again in three layers, and again roll it out, but rolling across instead of lengthwise, in order that the butter may not run in streaks by being always rolle^ SHORT CRUST. 183 the same way, and repeat this process of folding and roll- ing seven times, remembering to let the crust cool be tween the rollings, otherwise the butter will oil The paste may now be used for vol-au-vent, or what- ever purpose required. Note. — If a larger quantity of this paste is required, it should be made in divisions, as a larger amount than is given above is not so successfully manipulated. When flour is in the least inferior, the quantity of matter must be decreased, as there will not be sufiScient gluten in it to absorb the quantity of moisture. Flaky Crust. — One pound of flour, one-half pound of butter, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one salt- spoonful of salt, one-half gill of cold water, whites of two eggs. Sift the flour through a sieve upon a mixing board. Put the whites of eggs upon a plate, add to them the salt and whip all to a light froth. Mix the flour to a firm dough with the froth of eggs and the cold water, roll it out very thinly, divide the butter into three pieces and spread one of them upon the dough. Fold the dough in three layers and roll it out thinly again, reversing the order of rolling each time. Repeat this process until theliutter is all rolled into the dough when the crust is ready for use and may be used for meat pies, or fruit tarts. Short Crust. — Six ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, one-half gill of cold water, one-half teaspoonful of lemon-juice, yolk of one egg. Place the flour when sifted upon a mixing board, add to it the butter and rub these gently together with the finger tips until all look like i)'cad crumbs. l84 ' PI^S AND PASTRIES. Make a little hole in the centre, of the flour and but- ter, drop into it the yolk of egg, pour over it the lemon- juice, and adding the cold water by degrees, knead all lightly together. This crust is used only for fruit tarts and must' be rolled out to about a quarter of an inch thickness when required. Suet Crust. — ;One pound of flour, six ounces of beef suet, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one tea- spoonful of salt, one-half pint of cold water. First take the skin from the suet and chop it very finely. Place it upon a mixing board and mix it together with the flour. Sprinkle over the mixture the salt and the baking-powder, make a hole in the centre into which pour the water by degrees, mixing in the flour from, the sides while pouring the water, when all miist be^ krieaded- lightly together, and rolled out when required to the thick- ness of half an inch. This crust may be used for a boiled meat, or a boiled apple pudding. Rough PuJBf Paste. — Six ounces of butter, eight ounces of flour, one and one-half tablespbonfuls of cold water, one-half, teaspoonful of lemon-juice, yolk of one egg. First sift the flour on to a mixing board. Put with it the butter and phop this up roughly with a knife mixing at the same time with it the flour. Make a little well in the centre of the butter and flour, drop into it the yolk of egg, sprinkle over the lemon-juice and cold water and knead ^all firmly together. Roll the paste out thinly, fold it together and roll again, reversing the order of rolling, and repeat this pro- LEMON Pl£. 185 cess four times, observing to change the direction of roll- ing each tinie. The paste is then ready to be used and is suitable for the covering of either fruit tarts or meat pies. Note. — In preparing all crusts that require butter in the making, it will be found advantageous to put the butter upon ice until thor- oughly hardened before using it. PIES AND PASTRIES: PIES, Pie Crust. — Twelve ounces of flour, six ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of baking-powder, one-half tea- spoonful of salt, one gill of cold water. Place the flour and butter together in a bowl and mix them lightly with the fingers. When thoroughly blended add the baking-powder and the salt, pour in upon this the cold water and stir all well together, and flouring a mix- ing board turn this mixture out upon it and knead all to a light dough. When required roll this dough out very thinly and line the pie tin with it. Note. — When fresh, sweet lard can be obtained it may be substi- tuted for butter in making pie crust or mixed in equal parts with it Ijemon Pie. — Two lemons, five tablespoonfuls of sugar, three eggs, one teacupful of milk, two tablespoon- fuls of com starch. Grate the rind of the lemons into a bowl, chop the pulp of the lemon very finely and mix it with the grated rind in the bowl. To this add the corn starch and beat all smooth with the cold milk. Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs and placing the whites upon a plate 1 86 PIES AND PASTRIES. drop the yolks in with the mixture in the bowl, and beat all well together, adding two tablespoonfuls of the sugar. Line a pie tin with pie crust, see page 185, pour the mixture from the bowl into it, and placing the tin into a moderate oven, bake the pie for twenty minutes. Whip to a stiff froth the whites of eggs, and to this add the remainder of the sugar, and when the pie is done take it from the oven and place over the top the sugared froth of egg, when it should be returned to the oven for five minutes that the froth of egg may "set" and brown slightly upon the surface. Serve hot or cold as the taste may dictate, although a lemon pie should never be allowed to stand long enough for the crust to become soaked with its moisture. Apple Pie.— One and one-half pounds of apples, three ounces of sugar, one tablespoonful of cold water, one-half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. Line a pie tin with pie crust, see page 185, wet the edges of the crust with a little cold water, pare, core and slice the apples and arrange these in the tin. When this is dofie sprinkle over the* apples the sugar and nutmeg and pour in the cold water ; then cut a covering of the crust of the proper size, having rolled it to the thickness of one-lhird of an inch, cover the pie with this, pressing it firmly together with the lining crust at the edges, and cutting two or- three slits in the top with a knife to permit the steam to escape while the pie is baking. This pie should be baked in a quick oven from twenty minutes to half an hour, according to the length of time the apples may irequire to be exposed to the heat before becoming soft. 1 ■ PUMPKIN PtE. 187 Peach Fie. — One quart of peaches, three ounces of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of cream. Line a pudding dish with flaky crust — see page 183, and cut also a round of the same, large enough to cover the top of the pudding dish. Bake the crust lining and the covering upon flat baking tins in a quick oven for fifteen minutes ; while these are baking, pare and slice the peaches, which must be very ripe, mix together the sugar and cream and pour over them, and when the crust is done, place the prepared peaches in the pie dish, , cover them over with the top crust and place all in the oven for five minutes ; in order that the fruit may steam through and the crust brown lightly upon the surface. Note. — When small fruits are to t>e made into pies, such as straw- berries, raspberries, etc., they should be treated in the manner above laid down, as baking them with the crust causes them to lose flavor and freshness. Custard Pie. — Three eggs, three gills of milk, one ounce of sugar, one- half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. Line a pie tin with the pie crust, see page 185, and putting the eggs and sugar into a bowl beat them together until the eggs become very light. . Add to this the milk, and pour all into the crust lined pie tin, place the whole in a moderate oven, and bake the pie for half an hour. When done, grate over the surface the nutmeg, and serve cold or hot as the taste may suggest, although cus- tard pie should be cooled at once if desired cold, as the crust soaks with standing, and becomes unpalatable. Pumpkin Pie. — One-half of a pumpkin, three eggs, one pint of milk, one-half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, one saltspoonful of powdered mace, four ounces of ■ sugar. l88 PIES ANb PASTJilES. Parethepumpkin of its yellow rind, retaiove the seeds, slice and cut the pumpkin into small pieces, and placing these in a saucepan, cover them with cold water, and put- ting the saucepan over the fire, stew the contents , until quite soft and nearly dry, when the pumpkin should be iiu=sed through a cullender and made quite smooth. Take one pint of the stewed pumpkin, stir into it the , milk and sugar, beat the eggs until very light, and add these also, after which line a deep pie tin with the pie crust, pour into this enough of the pumpkin mixture to fill it within a quarter of an inch of the top, and place the tin an a quick oven and bake for twenty minutes. When done, the spice shoiild be grated over the tpp and the pie then be returned for a moment to the hottest part of the oven to brown a little on the sur- face. There will be sufficient of the pumpkin mixture to fill two pie tins, which may be used at once if required, or set aside until the following day, as pumpl^in pies require to be eaten when quite fresh, or the crust becomes soaked and indigestible. Note. — Squash pie may be prepared in the same way as the pump- kin pies. Mince Pie. — Fourteen pounds of brown sugar, eight pounds of suet, eight pounds of raisins, eight pounds of currants, oije-quarter pound of mixed spice, two pounds of citron, one-half gallon of brandy, one tablespopnful of powdered ginger, one tablespoonful of powdered cinna- mon, three ounces of apple, one-half gill of cider, two ounces of lean boiled beef, two heaped tablespoonfuls of strawberry jam. , MINCE PIE. 189 To prepare the mince meat, which should stand at least one month before being used, skin first the suet and chop it very finely. Seed the raisins and chop these also very finely. Wash the currants well and drying them thor- oughly, chop these finely with the citron, which must first be cut in very thin slices. Place the chopped ingredients in a large bowl, mix them thoroughly together and add to this the sugar, the mixed spice, cinnamon and ginger, and stirring all well together, pour over the brandy, and stir all again until thoroughly saturated with the moisture. This mince should be packed for keeping, into a stone- jar and closely covered. When a pie is desired, take out of the jar six heaped tablespoonfuls of the mince, put it into a bowl and mix the cider and strawberry jam, also the beef which must be minced exceedingly fine. Chop the apple also very finely and stir this together with the mixture in the bowl ; after which line a deep pie tin with puff paste — see page 182. pour the mince prepared as above into it, cover all, with a thin sheet of the paste cut to the proper size, and pinching the covering firmly to the lining paste at the edges, cut two or three gashes in the top to let the steam escape while the pie is baking, brush all over with a little white of egg or milk and placing the tin in a quick oven bake the pie for three-quarters of an hour. Note— There is; a Scottish proverb that "mince meat becomes poison if minced too fine or kept too long," implying that it is im- possible to do either. Mince prepared as above may be kept six months or a year if desired. , IgO BREAD AND CAKES. BREAD AND CAKES. BREAD. Wheat Bread. — Three and one-half pounds of flour, one ounce of compressed yeast, one dessert spoon- ful of salt, one and three-quarters pints of. tepid water. Place in a large niixing bowl or pan three pounds of the flour and mix with it the salt. Put the yeast cake into a bowl and covering it with the tepid water let it dissolve. Make a hole in the centre of the flour and into this , pour the yeast and water, pouring it through a strainer to remove any remaining lump. Stir into this from the side the dry flour, until all becomes srtiooth, and covering the bowl place it in a warm, diy place giving its contents two hours in which to rise. ' At the end of this time sprinkle the remaining half pound of flour over the light dough and knead all to- gether until the dough cleaves cleanly from the sides of_ the bowl or pan. Divide the doTigh into two equal parts, mould these into loaves and greasing slightly two bread pans; place the loaves therein and set them in a warm place for. half an hour to rise. When this time expires place the bread pans into a moderate oven and bake the bread for one hour and a half. .;' When done the bread should be placed upon a sieve or folded towel to cool befdre being put away, otherwise the sjeam which it generateSjbeing put into a close place hot, will make it damp and heavy, and inclined to crumble when dry. FRENCH ROLLS. 191 Notes, — Rye bread may be made from wheaten potato sponge. The sponge must be set over night by taking three potatoes, boiling them, and mashing these in a half pint of the liquor in which they are boiled, stir in also wheat flour until a light batter is made and break- ing into this half of a yeast cake mix all thorojaghly together and stand in a warm place to rise. With the addition of this yeast, the rye bread is prepared in the same manner as the wheat. Flour should be sifted for bread as well as for pastries and cake. Iffilk Rolls. — One pound of flour, one ounce of butter, one ounce of sugar, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one saltspoonful of salt, one-half pint of milk. Put the flour into a bowl and rub into this the butter with the hands. Add to this the salt, half an ounce of the sugar and the baking-powder. Make a well in the centre of the mixture, pour into it the milk, stir into this the dry flour from the sides, and turning all out upon a mixing board, knead all together as quickly and lightly as possi- ble. Cut the dough into six pieces, and draw each piece quickly to the length of about four inches, with a sharp knife cut each roll twice across the top, place them side by side upon a slightly floured baking tin, and bake them in a quick oven for twenty minutes. At the end of this time withdraw the tin from the oven, brush the rolls over with a little milk, sprinkle over their tops the remainder of the sugar, and return them to the oven for one minute to dry the milk. Serve hot. Note. — In using baking powder for dough, the quicker the mix- ture containing it is baked, and the less handled, the more satisfac- tory the result. French RoUs. — One ounce of butter, one saltspoon- ful of salt, one-half pint of milk^ one egg, two tablespoon- fuls of brewers yeast, one and one-half pounds of flour. 192 SttkAL) Ai^OCAkES. First place the butter and milk together in a, tin basin and placing this over the fire, let them heat until the milk becomes tepid. Put the yeast into a mixing bowl, and pour oyer this the tepid mixture. Beat the egg thoroughly, and pour this also into the bowl, together with the salt, stir into the mixture the flour, cover the bowl with a cloth and stand it in a warm place for two hours, to allow its con- tents to become light. At the end of this time knead the light dough until it cleaves from the sides of the bowl, after which divide it into twdlye rolls, form them upon a mixing board and place them on a slightly floured baking tin, a,nd allowing them to stand to rise for twenty minutes, bake in a quick oven for ten minutes. 'Serve hot. Milk Biscuit. — One gill of milk, one ounce of but- ter, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one-half pound of flour, one saltspoonful of salt. Put the milk into a small saucepan together with the butter, and place all over the fire. When the milk becomes tepid, put the flour into a bowl, mix with it the salt and baking power, and pour into the centre of this the contents of the saucepan. Mix all to a stiff, sHiooth paste, turn this out upon a mix- ing board, and roll it out as thinly as possible. Take a small biscuit cutter and cut the dough into roiindS, pricking each several times on the top with a fork. , ■ Arrange the biscuit upon a slightly greased baking cin, and bake theni in a moderate oven fifteen minutes. Muffins.— One pint of milk, one pint of flour, one teaSi)oonful,of salt, two ounces of butter, three eggs. TIBBIE suiEVs.oR girhle scones. 193 Put the flour into a bowl, mix with it the salt, make a little hole in the centre of the flour, and separating the whites from the yolks of the eggs, drop the yolks into this hole, and place the whites upon a plate. Melt the butter, taking care that it does not become hot, and pour this over the yolks of eggs, when the milk also must be poured in, and as it is poured the dry flour must be worked in from the sides. When all the flour is mixed in, the mixture should be beaten until bubbles arise upon its surface. Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and stir this, lightly into the batter. Slightly grease and heat twelve muffin rings, place them into a baking pan and pour into them equal parts of the batter, when they must be put into a very quick oven and baked for ten minutes. Serve hot. Note. — ^A very delicious mu£Sn may also be made after this recipe, of equal parts of com meal and wheat flour. Tibbie Shiel's or Girdle Scones. — One pound of flour, one teaspoonful of bi-carbonate of soda, one-half teaspoonful of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, three gills of butter milk. Put the flour into a bowl and mix through it the salt, place the soda and cream of tartar upon a plate, and make all smooth with the back of a teaspoon. Mix this also with the flour, pour in the butter milk and stir all thor- oughly together. Flour a mixing board, pour the batter out upon this, and adding a little flour from time to time to prevent sticking, knead the batter until it becomes a dough, stiff enough to roll out. 194 BREAD AND CAHrJSS. Cut thcidough in two pieces, and roll each piece out round, and to about half an inch in thickness. Divide each round into four pieces, place them on a heated gir- dle and bake them fifteen minutes, turning them once meantime. Serve cold with butter. Soda Scones. — One pound of flour, two ounces of butter, one ounce of sugar, one teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, one-half teaspoonfu-l of cream of tartar, three gills ,of butter milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt. Put the flour into a bowl, mix through it the salt and then rub into it the butter. Put the soda and cream of tartar together upon a plate, and rub them free of lumps with the back of a spoon, after which mix them in with the flour and butter. Add to this mixture half of the sugar and all of the milk, and when these are stirred thoroughly in, pour the batter out upon a floured mixing board. Knead it with a little dry flour until stiff enough to roll out, when cut- ting the dough in two pieces, roll each of them to a round about half an inch in thickness, and marking each with a sharp knife from side to side at right angles, place them on a slightly floured baking tin, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. At the end of this time draw the tin from the oven long enough to brush the scones over with a little butter- milk, sprinkle them with the remaining sugar, and return them to the oven for one minute. Cool the scones upon a sieve or folded towel before serving; Note. — In using soda, care should be taken that the quantity given is not exceeded, and when a teaspoonful is required, the spoon should be just level full, otherwise the preparation will be turned very yellow. CORN LUNN. igj Folded Rolls. — One pint of milk, two ounces of butter, two medium sized potatoes, one-half teacupful of brewers yeast, one tablespoonful of sugar, one teaspoon- ful of salt, two pounds of flour. Bring the milk first to a tepid degree of heat, add to it the butter, and when the butter has melted, pour all into a mixing bowl, and add to these the potatoes which must have been boiled and finely mashed. Mix in the salt and sugar, and thicken all with half of the flour. Cover the bowl with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise through the night. When light knead the" batter to a dough with the remainder of the flour, and let it rise the second time, the length of time required for this depending upon the quality of the yeast, heat, etc., but should not exceed an hour. When light, place the dough upon a board, roll it out to about an inch in thickness, and cut this into rouads with a large sized biscuit cutter. Have ready now in a saucer a little melted butter, and brush over one-half of the roll with this, folding the other half over upon it. When this is done, arrange the rolls upon a slightly floured baking tin, set them to rise for the third time, and when this is done, place the tin into a quick oven and let the rolls bake therein for ten minutes. Serve hot. Note. In preparing all yeast and risen breads, care should be taken that the process of rising is not retarded by a chill, nor unduly accelerated by excessive heat, as the one will produce hard, heavy bread, and the other sour, hollow loaves. Corn Lunu. — One teacupful of corn meal, two tea- cupfUls of wheat flour, otichalf teacupful of sugar, two \ 196 BREAD AND CAKES. ounces of butter, one-half pin.t of sweet milk, three eggs, three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. The flour, corn meal and sugar must first be well mixed together, and the baking-powder must be added to these. Melt the butter and pour it, into the centre of the prepared flour and mix all to a batter with the milk. Break the eggs into a: small bowl and beat them until very light, pout this over the batter and stir it in. ^ Grease a bread pan or pudding dish and pour the bat- ter into it, filling it about half full. Place this in a quick oven and bake for twenty minutes. Serve hot, covered with a napkin. Note. — If com bread is preferred not sweetened, the sugar may be left out of the above preparation. Gaieties.— ^One ounce of compressed yeast, one dessert spoonful of sugar, one and one-half gills of milk, one gill of cold water, two pounds of floury seven eggs. Put the yeast and the Sugar into a mixing bowl. Bring the milk and water to a tepid degree of heat and pour- ing this over the powdered yeaSt and Sugar, stir these together until both sugar and yeast dissolve. Mix into this as much flour as will make a firm dough, covered with a towel, and place it in a warm place to rise, which will take about, two hours. Put into another bowl one pound of the flour, and into this drop one by onej: the eggs. To this add half a gill of milk, and beat all together with the hand for fifteen min- utes. When the dough has risen, mix into it the beaten flour, egg and milk; beat all again with the hand until the different components are thoroughly blended. SULTANA CAKE. 197 Set this again for two hours in a warm place to rise, add the remainder of the flour and knead the dough slightly. Cut from it pieces of dough which should be moulded in the hands, to the shape and size of a large egg. Gash them over the surface with a pair of scissors, place them upon a slightly floured baking tin, let stand for a short time to resume their lightness, and |bake in a quick oven for fifteen minutes, drawing them out, how- ever, when about half done, long enough to sprinkle each galette with a little sugar. Serve either hot or cold ac- cording to taste. BREAD AND CAKES. CAKES. Sultana Ceike. — One-half pound of flour, one quarter of a pound of butter, one-quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, one-quarter of a pound of sultana raisins, one teaspoonful of baking-powder, rind of one lemon, one ounce of citron, one-half gill of milk, two eggs. First line a cake tin with a sheet of greased kitchen paper, put the flour into a mixing bowl and rub into it the butter. with the hands. Add to these the baking- powder and the grated rind of lemon, and cutting the cit- ron into thin small slices, stir this in also. Put the eggs and sugar together in a small bowl, beat these until very light, stir into this the milk, after which the mixture should be poured into the mixing bowlj^ and all thoroughly beaten together. , Place the raisins into a towel and rub them in this until the stems and all extianeous matter are rubbed ofif. igg BREAD AND CAKES. pick them out and stir into the cake batter as quickly as possible, and pouring all into the prepared baking pan, bake the cake in a moderate oven for an hour and a quarter. When done remove the cake from the oven and place it upon a sieve to cool. Notes. — The cake tins should always be prepared before the cake, because when baking powder Is used there should be no delay in bak- ing, as it effervesces but once, and the mixture to be raised should be firmed by the heat while the baking powder is doing its work. For this same reason the raisins should also be prepared prior to the stirring of the cake and added last, because being heavy, they naturally sink to the bottom of the mixture if allowed to stand. Raisins should be never be washed, as it is extremely difficult to dry them thoroughly and the moisture which they would gather in being washed must inevitably cause heaviness in whatever they are used. Cakes should always be tested before being removed from the oven with a skewer or clean broom splint, for the reason that if ex- posed to a chill before thoroughly done they will always fall. If done, the skewer or broom splint will come out of the cake without any dough clinging thereto.- The oven should always be kept closed, until the cake dough firms, and opened thereafter as little as is con- sistent with the proper watching of the baking. Cream Cake, — One teacupful of sugar, two teacup- fuls of flour, one teaspoonful of soda, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, four eggs, one-ha,lf pint of milk, one table- spoonful of flour, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, one egg, one saltspoonful of salt, six drops of essence of almond. Put the flour and sugar into a mixing bowl, and rub them together. Place the soda and cream of tartar upon a plate, and rub the lumps out of them with the back of a spoon, and mixing these with the sugar and flour, make a hole in" the ORANGE CAKE. 199 centre of the dry ingredients, and drop into it one by one the yolks of the four eggs. Place the whites of eggs upon a dry plate, and with a dry knife whip them to a stiff froth, after which stir the froth lightly together with the contents of the mixing bowl. Grease well with butter four jelly cake tins, spread an equal portion of the cake batter upon each, and bake these in a quick oven for seven minutes. While the cakes are baking, put the milk, into which throw the salt, into a saucepan over the fire, and bring it to the boiling point. While this is boiling beat the one egg until very light,, stir into this a tablespoonful of flour and two table- spoonfuls of sugar, and when the milk boils, remove it from the fire, let it cool for one minute and add to it the egg mixture. Return the saucepan to the fire and let its con- tents boil for one minute, stirring it meanwhile to prevent scorching. Take the saucepan again from the fire and drop into it the essence of almond, and removing the cakes from the tins, place them one upon the other upon a flat dish, ' spreading between each layer of cake, equal portions of the cream from the saucepan. Serve with a little pow- dered sugar sprinkled over the top. Note.— Jelly cakes may be made also from this recipe, substitn- ting jelly for the cream, and with this purpose the ingredient for the cake and cream have been given in separate quantities. Orange Cake. — Two ounces of butter, six ounces of sugar, two teacupsfuls of flour, one-half teacupful of 200 BREAD AND CAKES. sweet milk, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, one-half tea.spoonful pf soda, three eggs, one orange. Put the flour, butter, and three ounces of the sugar, in a mixing bowl. Rub them all lightly togetiier, and making a well in the centre, drop iilto it the yolks of the eggs. Rub the cream of tartar and soda smooth of lumps, and stir them into the milk. Pour this over the yolks of eggs, and stir all well together. Whip the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth, mix this lightly in with the contents of the mixmg bowl, and greasing three jelly cake tins, spread the batter in equal portions over each. Bake these cakes in a quick oven for seven minutes. While the cakes are baking, grate into a sieve the rind from the oringe, place the sieve over a bowl and squeeze through it the juice of the orange, passing the grated dust of the orange rind through at the same time. Whip the remaining white ■ of egg to a stiff froth, and add to this froth, by degrees, the remaining three ounces of sugar and the orafige preparation. Remove the cakes from the oven to a sieve, and when they become cool, arrange them one upon the other upon a flat plate, spreading between each layer of cate equal portions of the orange iceing. Sncw Cake. — One pound of arrow root, one-half pound of powdered sugar, one-half pound Of butter, whites of six eggs, one teaspoonful of essence of lemon. Pass the arrow-root through a wire ^ieve to remove the lumps. . Beat the sugar and butter together to a cream, and add to these by degrees the arrow-root, beating the mixture constantly while sprinkling the ^rrow-root in. Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and add these also to the mixture, after which beat all together for twenty SPONGE CAKE. 20I minutes, until the mixture becomes a very smooth batter, and looks very white. Add to the batter the lemon-juice, grease a cake tin with butter and pour the batter into it, and placing this in a moderate oven bake the cake for one hour and a half. Found Cake, — One pound of flour, one pound of butter, one pound of sugar, eight eggs, one wineglassful of brandy, one saltspoonful of salt, rind of two lemons. Break the eggs into a bowl and beat them until very light. Place the sugar in a large bowl, add to it the butter and beat both to a cream. Stir into this cream the flour and the beaten eggs, pouring each in in alternate small portions until all is well beaten together. Add to the mixture the grated lemon rind; the salt, and brandy, stir these until thoroughly blended, when, greasing a cake tin, pour into it the cake batter and plac- ing this in a moderate oven, bake the cake for one hour and three quarters. When done, place the cake immediately upon a sieve to cool. Sponge Cake. — Three teacupftils of sugar, thfee teacupfuls of flour, ten eggs, rind of one lemon, one tabie- spoonful of lemon-juice. Put the sugar into a mixing bowl and separating the yolks from the whites of the eggs, place the whites upon a plate and drop the yolks one by one into the sugar and beat these together for half an hour. Whip the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and stir this in with the contents of the mixing bowl. Add to the mix- ture by degrees the flour, beating all constantly and as 202 ' BREAD AND CAKES. the flour is being beaten in/ sprinkle in from time to the lemon-juice and the grated rind of lemon. Pour the batter without any delay, into a baking tin that has been greased with butter and placing the tin in gi moderate oven, let the cake bake therein for an hour and. a half. Rock Cake. — One pound of flour, three ounces of butter, three ounces of sugar, .three ounces of sultana' raisins, two eggs, one teaspoonful of powdered ginger, one- half gill of milk, two teaspoonf uls of baking powder. Put the flour into a mixing bowl, add to it the butter and rub these thoroughly together with the hands. When this is done, add to the mixture the sugar, gin ger and baking powder and rub these also until well mixed. Pla,ce the raisins in a towel and rubbing from them the stems, pick these out and throw them into the mixture, stirring lightly while doing so. Put the eggs into a small bowl, beat them until very light, add to them the milk and stir this into the dry in- gredients in the mixing bowl, which should bring the mix- ture to a dough stiff enough to hold the spooh perpen- dicular in the centre. ' Grease with butter a flat baking tin, take two forks and lift with them rough pieces of the dough and plate them upon the tin. Place the tin in a very hot oven and bake the cake for fifteen minutes. Serve when cool. Yorkshire, Tea Cakes.^Three eggs, one pint of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one piece of sal volatile the size of a pea, one pound of flour. 3reak the eggs into a bowl and beat them until very FRUIT CAKE 203 light. Add to them the milk, and dissolving the sal vola- tile and salt in sufiScient water to cover them, add this to the milk and eggs, and add to the liquids the flour by degrees, and beat all well together. Grease some shallow tins the size of breakfast saucers,- fill them half full with the batter, and placing them in a quick oven, bake them for fifteen minutes. Notes. — If tins of the given size are not available, delf saucers may be used for baking these cakes. These cakes make also a delicious breakfast dish. Ginger Bread. — Three pounds of flour, one pound of butter, one pound of sugar, one pound of treacle or molasses, two 'ounces of brown ginger. Put the flour in a mixing bowl together with the sugar. Sprinkle over these the ginger, and mix all well together. Pl^ce the butter and treacle or molasses, into a sauce- pan, and stir them over the fire until both are melted. Pour the melted ingredients in with the flour and sugar in the mixing bowl, and stir all well together. Grease with butter two bread tins, pour the mixture .n equal portions into them, and placing the tins in a moderate oven, let the cakes bake therein for an hour and a half. Fruit Cake. — Two pounds of raisins, one pound of currants, one pound of citron, one pound of flour, four eggs, one-half pint of milk, one pound of sugar, one-quar- ter pound of butter. Seed and pick the stems from the raisins, after which chop them roughly. Wash and dry the currants and put them together with the chopped raisins in a mixing bowl. Rub together the butter and flour, and stir this in with the 204 BREAKFAST DISHES. fruit, after which cut the citron intp thin slices, and mix these in also, adding at the same time the sugar. Break the eggs into a separate bowl, and beat them until very light, add to them the milk and pour this liquid over the fruit mixture, stirring all well together. Put the cake mixture into a greased bread pan, and bake in a slow oven for two hours. Note. — Spices may be used in fruit cake if desired, also a wine- , glassful of brandy, and it will always be profitable if convenient, to double or even treble the quantities here given for this cake, as the larger the bulk of fruit.'the more delicious the cake, and also the longer fruit cake is kept the better it becomes. BREAKFAST DISHES. Sheep's Trotters.— Six sheep feet, two tablespoon- fuls of cream, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, yolks of two eggs, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoon- ful of salt, one saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one dessert spoonful of sherry. When the feet have been scalded and scraped, put them into a saucepan, cover them with cold water and place the sautepaii over the fire. When this water boils, drain it off, and cover them again with water that is bpilT ing, allow them to simmer very slowly in this until the meat will separate from the bone. Take the feet from the saucepan, remove the bones, and cut the meat into small pieces. Put these pieces of meat into a fresh saucepan, and pour over them a pint and a. half of the liquor in which the feet were boiled. Place this saucepan over the fire and as the liquor boils up, skim it carefully. Add to the trotters the sherry, pepper SHEEP-HEAD PIE. 205 and salt, and let all simmer slowly together for twenty minutes. Beat in a bowl the yolks of eggs, add to them the chopped parsley and nutmeg, and taking the saucepan from the fire, let its contents cool a little, and add thereto the egg mixture from the bowl. Stir all well together, adding at the last moment the cream, and serve at once. Calf's Liver.— One and one-half pounds of calf's liver, one-quarter pound of bacon, one teaspoonful of mixed herbs, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teapoonful of pepper, yolks of two eggs, one teacupful of cream. Place the liver in a saucepan over the fire, and cover- ing it with cold water, let it boil therein for three-quarters of an hour. * Take it from the water, allow it to become per- fectly cool, and then grate it fine upon a carrot grater. Put the grated liver into a bowl, and chopping the bacon very fine, mix it therewith. Add to this mixture the herbs, pepper and salt, beat well together the yolks of eggs and the cream, and mix these in also. Put all into a saucepan, ajid placing this over a very slow fire, stir the preparation until very hot, not at any time allowing it to boil. Serve upon a hot dish. Sheep-head Pie. — One sheep's-head, one-half pound of bacon, one teaspoonful of pepper, one dessert spoonful of salt, two hard boiled eggs. When the sheep's head is cleaned, put it iiito a sauce- pan over the fire, and covering it with . cold water bring . it quickly to the boiling point, and when boiling, skim the surface very carefully. Draw the saucepan to one side of 206 BREAKFAST DISHES. the fire and let its contents simmer, very slowly until the meat will separate from the bones of the head. Take the head from the boiling water, remove the meat from the bones, and cut this into small pieced. Skin the tongue and cut it into small pieces also. Mix the tongue and the meat together, put a layer of the mixture about an inch in thickness into the bottom of a pie dish, cover this with a layer of bacon, and oyer this one of the hard boiled eggs cut in slices. Sprinkle over all some pepper and salt, and repeat the ^ alternating layers of chopped meat, bacon and egg, until the materials are all filled into the dish. -^ Pour over the pie three gills of the liquor in which the head was boiled, cover all with a flaky crust, see page 183, and bake the pie in a quick oven for half an hour. This dish should be served cold. Deviled Turkey.— One pair of turkey legs, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one grain of cayenne. Cut the legs from a cold roast turkey, trim them neatly, sprinkle over them the pepper, salt and cayenne, grease two sheets of letter paper and wrap each leg in one of these, twisting the ends of the paper to secure it Place the legs thus prepared in a broiler and broil them for seyien minutes over a clear fire. When broiled, remove the paper and serve the legs very hot. ^dney Oinelette.— Eight eggs, four sheep kid- neys, one gill of brown stocik, one dessert spoonful of mushroom catsup, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one-half ounce of flour, three ounces of butter. HAM OMELETTE. 207 Put one ounce of the butter into a saucepan. Cut each kidney into eight pieces, put the flour upon a plate and roll the pieces of kidney in it until they are com- pletely blanketed with the flour. Throw the kidney into the hot butter and brown each piece well upon both sides. Pour into the saucepan, over the browned kidney, the stock and catsup, season all with half of the pepper and salt, and covering the saucepan draw it to the side of the fire, and let its contents cook very slowly for one hour. Beat in a bowl the eggs until the yolks and whites are mixed, sprinkle over them the remainder of the pepper and salt, melt an ounce of the butter in an omelette pan pour into this half of the well beaten egg, and stir this with a spoon until it begins to firm around the edges, after which it should remain lipon the fire until the egg becomes nearly all firm. Put upon the omelette half of the stewed kidney, fold the omelette over so that the outer edges meet. Let it remain a minute longer in the pan and turn it quickly out upon a hot platter. Repeat this process with the remaining egg and kidney and when the second omelette is ready, place it beside the first upon the platter and serve as speedily as possible. Ham Omelette, — Eight eggs, one teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter, three tablespoonfuls of cold boiled, chopped ham. Break the eggs into a bowl and beat them with, a wooden spoon until the yolks and whites blend. Melt one ounce of the butter in an omelette pan, stir into the beaten egg, the choppe,d ham, pepper and salt, and pour half of the mixture into the pan with the hot butter. 2o8 . BREAKFAST DISHES. Stir all, until the pmelette begins to set at the edges, draw all down to one side of the pan, and when it becomes firm on the under side, turn the omelette quickly over to the other Side of the pan, without breaking its form, and remove the omelette to a hot platter. Repeat this process for the second omelette, the cook- ing, of which should only consume about two minutes and serve both as quickly as possible. Dried Herb Omelettes. — One dessert spoonful of chopped parsley, two teaspoonfuls of dried mfxed herbs, a piece of eschalot the size of a bean, eight eggs, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter. Put the eggs into a bowl, and with them the chopped parsley, dried herbs, pepper and salt. Chop the eschalot finely and throw it in also. Beat all together until the eggs are thoroughly blended, the yolks with the whites. Melt in an omelette pari, one ounce of the butter and when the blue smoke arises pour into it half of the mixture from the bowl, and stir this until the omelette begins to firm at the edges. ' Draw all down to one side of the pan, and when the omelette becomes firm on the under side, turn it over to the other side of the pan, and transfer it from this at once to a hot platter. Repeat this process of cooking with the remaining omelette mixture, and with as much dispatch as is possible, place the second omelette beside the first, and serve im- mediately. Note. — Omelettes should always be cooHed over a very quick 6re, and should never consume more than two-minutes in the doing. EGGS ON TOAST. 2O9 Eggs au Flat. — Eight eggs, eight tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, four ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt. Spread half of the bread crumbs upon a platter, sprinkle over them half of the pepper and salt, and dis- tribute over this in small pieces, two ounces of the butter. Break over this one by one the eggs, arranging them in a circle upon the bread crumbs, sprinkle over them the remaining breaji crumbs, pepper and salt, also distribute over this the remainder of the butter in small pieces, and place the platter in a hot oven for ten minutes. When done the bread crumbs should show a surface of pale brown, and the eggs be cooked rare. Serve upon the same platter on which the dish is prepared. Scrambled Eggs. — Eight eggs, one and one-half gills of cream, four ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Put the cream and butter together in a small sauce- pan over the fire, and stir them until the butter melts. Take the saucepan from the fire and break into it the eggs. Sprinkle over these the pepper and salt, and returning the saucepan to the fire, stir its contents with a fork briskly, until the eggs begin to firm. When this takes place, turn all quickly out upon a hot dish and serve at once. Eggs on Toast. — Eight eggs, two slices of buttered toast, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one dessert spoonful of lemon juice. Place a shallow saucepan over the fire, fill it nearly full of boiling water, and into this throw the salt and lemon juice. Break the eggs one by one into a teacup, and pour 210 BREAKFAST DISttES, chem gently from this into the water, letting each egg form before another is put in. Allow two minutes and a half to each egg, and remov- ing them from the water with a skimmer, place them, so drained, upon the slices of buttered toast. Curried £!ggs. — Bight eggs, three ounces of butter, one and one-half ounces of. flour, three gills of white stock, one tablespoonful of curry powder, one-half tea- spoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of sugar, one tea- spoonful of vinegar. Drop the eggs into a saucepan of boiling water, and let them boil therein for ten minutes. Throw them when boiled into a basin of cold water to cool, and while they are cooling melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir into it the dry flour and curry powder, add the stock by degrees, and when this mixture reaches the boiling point, let it continue to boil for two '' min- utes thereafter. Throw in the salt, sugar and vinegar, and draw the , saucepan aside from the fire. Take the shells from the eggs and cut them into halves, put them into the saucepan with the prepared curry, and allow all^ to remain over the fire until the eggs are heated through,' taking care however, that the mixture does not boil, as this will cause the eggs to break up and so injure the appearance of the dish. When done pour all carefully into a hot deep dish, and serve with boiled rice. IMtishroonis. — One ^nd one-half dozens of large, fresh mushrooms, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one eschalot, one-half 'teaspoonful of pepper, one-half teaspoonful of salt, two ouiices of butter. POTATO SAUTE. 211 Take eight of the largest mushrooms, skin them and cut off thi! stalks. Chop the eschalot as finely as possible, and chop also finely the remainder of the mushrooms. Put the butter into a fryin'g pan, and place this over the fire letting the butter melt and . become hot. Brown in this the eschalot and chopped muslirooms^, sprinkle over them the pepper and salt, and stuff the centre of the eight skinned mushrooms with this mixture. "- Sprinkle over each of these equal portions of the bread crumbs, place the mushrooms into a baking tin, and placing this in a brisk oven, let them bake therein until a skewer will easily penetrate to the centres of the mushrooms. Take the mushrooms when done carefully from the tin to avoid breaking them or disarranging the stuffing in their centres, and serve them in a hot dish. Potato Saute. — One quart of potatoes, one and one-half ounces of butter, one teaspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of white pepper. Young potatoes should be used for this preparation, and should be first scraped, then thrown into boiling water, and allowed to boil rapidly for ten minutes. Drain the water carefully from them, cover the saucepan, and let the potatoes cook in their own steam until a fork will pierce easily to their centres. When done, sprinkle over the potatoes the pepper and salt, throw in with these the butter, and shake the sauce- pan over the fire until the potatoes become a pale brown upon their surfaces. Serve very hot. Note. — Old potatoes may be used for a saut^ if young ones arf 212 BREAKFAST DISHES. ont of season, and when the old potatoes are so nsed, they should be cat into balls or other fanciful small shapes. Stuffed Potatoes. — Eight large potatoes, one pound of beefsteak,' one dessert spoonful of mushroom catsup, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one grain of cayenne, two ounces of butter, one egg- Wash and pare the potatoes thinly, and cut off about an inch of the smallest end. With a strong teaspoon scrape out the centre of the potato, leaving a shell of po- tato unbroken about a third of an inch in thickness, and throw these shells and their tops into cold water, to keep them white until used. Chop the steak very finely, add to this the pepper, salt, catsup and cayenne, and stir all together. Take the potatoes from the water, and drying them thoroughly with a towel, pack the meat mixture firmly into them. Beat the egg until very light, and roll in this both the stuffed potato and the tops, and cover the meat stuffing with the top cut from each potato, pressed .firmly on. Melt the butter in a shallow saucepan, and when the blue smoke arises, place the potatoes carefully in the hot butter that the tops may not be disarranged, and cover- ing the saucepan, let the potatoes cook slowly therein for one hour, turning them occasionally in order that they maty brOwn evenly on all sides. Serve in a hot Vegetable dish. Dresden Fatties. — Two slices of white bread, three tablespoonfuls of cream, four tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one-half pound of cold boiled salmbn, one tea- spoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one ounce DRESDEN PATTIES. 213 of butter, one-half ounce of flour, one gill of milk, one egg- Shred the salmon in small pieces, removing from it all the skin and bone. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir into this the flour, add the milk and stir all together until boiling. Throw into this mixture the shredded salmon and season all with half of the pepper and salt. Cbver the saucepan and, drawing it to one side of the fire, let its contents simmer, but not boil, until the fish is heated through. The slices of bread should be cut at least an inch and a half thick and cut a" large round from each with a bis- cuit cutter. With a smaller cutter cut these rounds half way through in the centre. Put the cream upon a plate and dip the rounds in this, quickly in order that they may not soak soft, beat the egg thoroughly and roll the founds in this, after which season the bread crumbs with the remaining pepper and salt and roll the rounds in these also. Throw the prepared rounds into hot clarified fat or lard and fry them for three minutes. Take them from the fat, drain them upon kitchen paper and splitting carefully off' with a sharp knife the inner round to the depths at which it is cut, scrape out from the centre of the large round all of the bread -remaining soft. Into this bread cup fill in equal portions the fish mix- ture, and place over this the small founds of bread. Serve the patties garnished with sprigs of parsley. Note. — These patties may also be made with oysters, lobsters, trvrfRes, mushrooms or any kind of boiled fish. 214 BREAKFAST DISHES. Chickens Iiivers. — One and one-half dozens of chickens livers, one-quarter of a pound of fat bacon, one saltspoonful of pepper, one saltspoonful of salt. Place the livers into a saucepan, cover them with cold water, throw in the salt and bringing the water quickly to the boiling point, let the livers boil for five minutes. When done, remove the livers from the water, slice them lengthwise carefully, in order not to break them, and cutting the 'bacon into very thin islices, and of a size similar to the slices of liver, thread alternate slices of liver and bacon upon a spit, and broil all over a bright fiye five minutes, turning them constantly in order that they may brown evenly. When broiled sprinkle over all the pepper and send them to the table on the spit. Note. — Livers of chicken or turkey boiled in the manncir above described, may also be served with a hot, thick brown sauce poured over them, with the addition if desired' of a little cliopped onion, browned in batter. Fig's Feet. — Four pigs feet, one and one-half pints of milk, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper, one ounce of flour. When the feet are cleaned and scraped, cut them- each across the knuckle deep' enough, to let the water pene- trate to the joint. Place them in a large saucepan, cover them with cold water, and putting all over the fire, let the water boil up. When this occurs drain^the first water off. Cover the feet with boiling water, and allow them to boil in this very slowly until tlie meat becomes tender. Pour the water off again, cover the feet wi^h the milH, BOILED RICE. 216 and let them simmer in this very slowly, for half an hour longer. Mix the flour in a bowl with a little cold/water, and beat it smooth. Stir this into the milk in the saucepan, sprinkle in also the pepper and salt, and let all cook to- gether for five minutes, when the feet should be removed to a hot, deep platter, and served with the sauce poured over them. Note.— Pig's feet are also very delicious broiled, and are prepared by first boiling until tender, as directed above. When cool, they should be rubbed over with butter, placed in a broiler and broiled for ' ten minutes over a clear fire. Boiled Oatmeal.— One quart of cold water, eight tablespoonfuls of oatmeal, one-half dessert spoonful of salt. Put the water into a saucepan, sprinkle in the oat- meal, stirring constantly, and when all has tieen made smooth, place the saucepan over a quick fire, and stir its contents until boiling. When boiling, throw into the porridge the salt, and draw the saucepan to one side of the fire, let all simmer slowly for half an hour, stirring it occasionally meantime. Note. — Oatmeal should always be thrown into cold, water when desired to boil, as cold water swells the grain of the meal better, and makes it less heating to the blood. Boiled Rice. — One-half pound of rice, three quarts of boiling water, one dessert spoonful of salt. Wash the rice thoroughly in cold water, and drain it in a strainer. P4ace it into a saucepan, pour over it the three quarts of boiling water, throw into it the salt, and allow 2i6 BREAKFAST DISHES. all to boil rapidly for fifteen minutes. If at the end of this time a grain of the rice may be readily floured by rubbing it between the finger and thumb? it is sufficiently boiled, but if it be still hard, continue to boil until the rice comes to this state, keeping in mind that the quicker this cereal is boiled, the dryer it will remain and the more free from starchy matter. . Pour the rice when donie, from the saucepan into a sieve, shaking the sieve as the water drains off, to release any fugitive drops that may be held in the, cereal, and when dry, serve gj; once heaped lightly in a hot vegetable dish. Notes. — When rice is desired to fry, it must be boiled slowly and without stirring in milk, and when boiled, cut into slices an inch thick, and fried in hot clarified fat or lard, until it becomes a delicate brown on both sides. Gom meal mush, which is made by stirring sifted com meal into boiling water, until a batter as thick as can be stirred with a spoon is' formed, is also delicious fried in this way, or in hot butter as the taste may decide. Casserole of Chicken. — Four ounces of cold breast of chicken, four ounces of butter, four ounces of bread crumbs, two eggs, one-half teacUpful of milk, one teaspoonful of sialt, one-half teaspoonful of white pepper. Chop first the breast of chicken very finely and rub it through a wire sieve. Put the meat into a bowl, add to it the yolks of the eggs and the butter, and beat all together for ten minutes. Add the bread crumbs and the. milk, season all with the pepper and salt. Whip the whites of eggs to a stifif froth and mix this lightly in. Pour the compound when thoroughly mix^d, into a TRIPE WITH ONION SAUCE. 2iy well greased pint and a half mould, cover the top of this with a piece of paper, and place the mould in a saucepan containing sufficient water to reach half way up the sides of the mould, and allow its contents to cook in this while the water boils for one hour. Turn the casserole when done out into a deep, hot dish and serve with egg sauce poured over and around it for which sauce see recipe on page 163. This dish may be garnished with red and green chillise if desired. Boiled Tripe. — Eight pounds of tripe, one-half tablespoonsul of salt. Cover the tripe with cold water and let it stand in this over night. Removing it from the bath, place it in a saucepan, cover it with cold water, put the saucepan over a quick fire and when boiling, drain the water oflf and cover it with additional cold water. Continue to drain off and recover the tripe with suc- cessive quantities of cold water until the water at last boils up quite clear and ceases to give off a disagreeable odor. Draw the saucepan to one side of the fire and allow its contents to simmer very slowly for five hours keeping the pan covered that the watpr may not boil away. When done, add the salt and the tripe is ready to dress in any manner desired, or may be served simply as it is. Tripe Tvith Onion Sauce. — Two pounds of boiled tripe, three gills of milk, one-half teaspoonful of white pepper, one Spanish onion. Cut the tripe into small irregular pieces. Put these into a saucepan, cover them with the milk, and allow all to stew over a slow fire for half an hour. 2i8 BREAKFAST DISHES. Throw the onion into boiling water and boil it also for half an hour. Take the onion when done from the water, drain it thoroughly, and chop it very finely^ When the tripe has cooked in the milk the appointed letigth of time, draw the saucepan aside from the fire and stir into it the chopped onion. Season all with the pep- per and" serve at once. BaJced Tri^e.— Two pounds of boiled tripe, four ounces of bread crumbs, two eggs, one-half pint of the liquor in ■vi^hich the trjpe is boiled, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Cut the tripe into small irregular pieces, and put a layer, a half inch deep, of it into the bottom of a deep dish. Sprinkle over this a layer of the bread crumbs and a little of the pepper and salt, and continue these alternating layers of tripe, seasoning, and bread crumbs until the material is all filled into the dish, leaving a last layer of bread crumbs upon the top. Put the eggs into a^ bowl and beat them until very light. Add to'them the tripe liquor, stir these together and pour the mixture over the tripe and bread crumbs in the dish. Place the dish in a moderate oven and let its contents bake half an hour, when it must be served in the dish in which it is prepared. Notes — When the liquor in which the tripe is boiled is not avail- able, milk or water may be substituted for it. In boiling tripe the salt should never; be used until the tripe >« done, otherwise it will be discolored thereby. . Brain Cakes. — Brain of two calf s heads, two eggs, one ounce of butter one tablespoonful of chopped pars- BREAKFAST COFFEE. 219 ley, one teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of pep- per, one saltspoonful of powdered mace, four tablespoon- fuls of bread crumbs. Throw the brains into a strong mixture of salt and water and let them remain in this for an hour. Put them into a saucepan over the fire, cover them with cold water and allow them to boif therein for twenty minutes. At the end of this time take them from the water, chop them into rough pieces, place these in a bowl and rub into them the butter. Add to the brains two table- spoonfuls of the bread crumbs and season all with the pepper, salt and mace. When these are mixed sprinkle over the preparation the chopped parsley and ^rop in upon it, the yolks of the eggs. Beat all well together, and flouring the hands slightly to prevent sticking, form the mixture into small, flat, round cakes. Whip the whites of the eggs, dip the cakes into this, roll them in the remainder of the bread crumbs, throw them into hot clarified fat or lard for two minutes, when done drain them for a moment upon a piece of kitchen paper, and serve them in a folded napkin garnished with sprigs of parsley. TEAS, COFFEES AND CHOCOLATE. Breakfast Coffee. — One tablespoonful of coffee for each person, three gills of boiling water to each table- spoonful of coffee. The coffee should be finely ground, then measured, 220 i'^-^ S, COFPEES A^/D CHOCOLA tE. put it into tlie coffee pot and the boiling water poured over it. Put the pot over the fite, and let the coffee boil up, when it should be drawn quickly aside from the blaze, and when the gas arising from the grains of coff.ee have' escajied, return the pot again to the fire, and let it again boil up. Draw it aside from the fire, and let it stand for five minutes to settle, when it is ready for the cups. NpTES.— In making black or after dinner coffee, the quantity of coifee allowed for each person should be the same, and the amount of water added to e&ch. tablespoonful of coffee should be decreased one-half. Sugar and cream is usedjn breakfast coffee, but sugar only in black coffee, with sometimes the addition of a spoonful of brandy to each cup, and bilmed upon the sugar, or a few drops of lemon juice if the flavor is liked, but these last always at the discretion of the drinker and at table. TEAS. Teas.— One teaspoonful of tea for each person, and a teaspoonful additional, three gills of boiling water to each teaspoonful of tea. Pour first in and out of the teapot a little boiling water. Put into it the required amount of tea, and pouring over this the boiling water, cover the teapot so that no steam may escape, and allow the tea to stand and . infuse for seven minutes, when it should be poured at once into the cups. Notes. — Tea should never be boiled, and should not be allowed to infuse longer than seven minutes, as the strength of the leaf will CLaRIPJED pat. 221 all draw out in that length of time, and if allowed to stand longer, will develop the tannin in it which gives the acrid, bitter taste of which there is general complaint, and which beside being unpleasant, to the palate, is destructive to the coating of the stomach, being a powerful astringent. Teas when properly infased shoidd have a pale, greenish amber color ; when boiled or let stand until the tannin develops, it will turn to a dark red. Cream and sugar are used in English breakfast and black teas. Green teas are usually preferred clear, and sometimes with a small piece of fresh lemon rind or a few drops of Scotch whiskey at the dis- cretion of the drinker. Chocolate. — Four tablespoonfuls of grated choco- late to each person, one and one-half gills of boiling milk and one and one-half gills of boiling water to each por- tion of chocolate. Mix together the boiling milk and water, and let them boil up together. Place the grated chocolate into a bowl and stir it to a smooth paste with a little cold milk or water. Pour the chocolate into the boiling milk and water, and let all boil together for two minutes, stirring it constantly meantime. Note. — If preferred, the sugar may be mixed with and boiled in the chocolate, and if this is done half as much sugar should be used as there is chocolate. , Cream whipped to a froth is sometimes served with this beverage^ and powdered sugar should be used in it instead of the cut loaf. Cocoa is made by mixing it with the desired amount of sugar, this mixture being placed in the cup and equal quantities of boiling milk, and water poured over it, MISCELLANEOUS. Claxified Fat. — Cut into pieces any convenient 222 MISCELLANEOUS. quantity of fat either of beef or mutton. Place these in a saucepan and covering them withhold water, stir all until the water boils. When boiling skim the surface very carefully and allow the preparation to boil thereafter very rapidly until the water has all been discharged in vapor. The presence of remaining water may be determine by the liquid retaining its white color, but when this ha all evaporated the fluid will take on the color and ap pearance of salad oil. When free from water the fat should be strained, and is ready for any use to which it is to be'put.' NoTE.-^Fat so clarified will keep for any length of time. Caramel. — One pound of coarse brown sugar, one pint of cold water. Put the sugar into a dry saucepan, place this over a hot fire and stir the sugar until it melts and turns to a darker brown color. Draw the saucepan aside from the fire, and add to its contents by degrees the cold water. Return the saucepan to the fire, and stir all together until the water boils. Pour the mixture through a strainer into a bowl, and allow it to become quite cold, after which it should be placed in a bottle and kept uncorked, to be used as re- quired. POULTRY. 223 HOW TO CARVE. Poultry requires more careful carving than any- thing else brought to table. As a general rule the white meat is considered the greater delicacy. A fowl roasted may be removed from the dish to the carver's plate; and as fowls are generally served in couples, this does not disarrange the economy of the table. The fork should be placed in the center of the breast, and the knife be carried down along the side. Then, inserting your knife under the leg, cut downwards as far as the tail, and separate the ligature near that point, when, jerking the leg back, the parts will give way. Next separate the wing with the edge of the knife, and carry it through to the other side, when the wing is easily detached. Separate the other wing and leg in the same way. The merry-thought or wish-bone is easily removed by inserting the knife under it and bending it back. Then remove the neck-bones by putting the fork through them, and wrenching them carefully away so as not to break them. The breast must next be separated by cutting right through the ribs. Then turn the fowl back upwards pn your plate and cut it up. By some the side-bones and the liver are con- sidered dainties, while others prefer the merry- thought and neck-bones. The prime parts, however, of a fowl, either roast or boiled, are generally con- sidered the wings and breast, and where ladies are at table it is customary to apportion these joints to them. i24 HOli^ TO carvjS. Turkey may be served in the same way as a chicken, excepting that, as thte breast is the most delicate part, and affords many good slices, these should'be Cut lengthways, and, with thin portions of the stuffing, be handed round first. Where the bird is large the whole of the breast may be served in such slices, and these a judicious carver will eke out with slices from the inner part of the thigh, sending to ladies, of course, only the former, but to male guests one of each. It must be borne in mind that the turkey is a dullard, and though Jt has a breast- bone, it never had a merry-thought.. Where sausages or forced-meat balls are placed on the dish they must be served to every guest. A Goose. — ^The first slices should be cut down to the breast-bone, and be helped round as long as they last. Under the aproij, which must be cut open, will be found thie stuffing, a part of which should be^ served with each helping. If more be required the carver riiust next proceed to take off a leg and wing, by inserting his fork through the small end of the , former, pressing it closely to the body, entering his knife, and jerking the leg smartly back, when the joint will separate, and it rtiay theri be readily cut off. The wing is easily taken off. Place the fork in the small end of the pinion, and pressing it close to the body, separate the joint with the knife^ and cut off the wing. The fleshy part of the wing and the thigh are the most favorite pieces after the breast. The one should be separated from the pinioQ and the other from the drumstick. The neck AtTCti-BONk Ok H. SONE Of BEEF. Zig and side-bones should also be served previous to the back or the drumsticks. These latter, with "the mitre," or lower part of the back, are generally for "deviling." A Green Goose should be cut up like a duck, but only about a couple of slices taken from the breast before it is served round in separate joints, the remainder of the breast counting for one. It is cus- tomary entirely to dissect the bird before helping any one. A Duck maybe carved much in the same way as a goose. The slices from the breast are cut, then the leg is removed by cutting, and the wing by perform-, ing a similar operation. Ducklings are carved in the same way as pigeons. Pigeons are usually carved into four pieces, and then by dividing each piece in half. Many persons cut them through the middle lengthways, and serve half the bird to each guest. Half a pigeon is not considered too much to be placed on a plate at once. BEEF. Joints are always the great staple of dinner, and therefore no one should be ignorant of the proper mode of carving them. The carver should always remember that hot joints are intended to be eaten hot, and that to cut slices neither too thick nor too thin is the best way of helping all roast and boiled meats. Aitch-bone, Heuck-bone, or H. Bone of Beef— for the derivation of the name is lost in the remotest antiq- 226 ^EEP. uity — is the hiost favorite joint of salt beef. Jn all boiled meats the outer slice should be cut off, because the outside, by boiling, becomes hard and dry. In this particular case it is doubly necessary ' that a thick, slice should, be taken off from the top, for the salting has hardened it no. less than the boiling. Then help handsome, smooth, thin slices, giving with each plate a little of the marrowy fat, and a little of the solid fat. Some recommend the slices to be a trifle thicker, and to taper off. No fluid should be placed in the dish, as the gravy that flows from the meat is all that is required. A Round of Beef is carved in the same way as the edge-bone, and the slices must be cut as thin as pos- sible, after having removed a very thick outside . slice to another dish.' A Brisket of Beef is cut down to the bone the long way, in thin slices, as the piece is fat and gristly, and all fat meat requires care not to serve the fat in too, solid' a mass. A Sirloin of Beef is said to be "a knightly joint." There are two ways of carving it. That which is the more ancient is still the most prevalent, and that is to serve it in long, slices, vyhich of itself apportions the fat to the lean. The other way is to begin in the middle and cut it across. In either case, a piece of the soft marrowy fat should accom- pany the slice, along with a sufficiency of gravy, which a generous joint will supply to the last. The browned outside should be offered, but not sient without asking. Many prefer, the under side. In SADDLE OF MUTTON. 227 that case the joint must be turned over, and cross slices cut. Ribs of Beef are carved in the same way as the sirloin, under its first and earlier method, care being taken to commence always at the thinnest part of the meat. When the ribs are boned and the meat rolled like a filet of veal, they are cut up like that joint. MUTTON OR LAMB. A Leg of Mnttoa has its n;iost juicy part in about the middle or thick of the thigh. The shank should lie to the carver's left hand if boiled, to his right if roasted. The first cut should be made through the noix or kernel, called the pope's eye. The fat lies in two directions. From eaqh of these a nice slice should be cut, and, with gravy from the meat, helped round with each portion. Some persons serve the outer side uppermost, as in the roasted leg. A Shoulder of Hutton, which Quin delighted in hot, and George III., or "Farmer George," luxuri- ated in cold, has many nice cuts. The fat should be cut in straight slices, and near to it some epicure's slices may be found, as all that part of the animal which is near the back-bone is prized as such. The under side is best cold; but if served hot, the oyster pieces to its righti and the hillock produce the prime slices, which must be cut hori- zontally. A Saddle of Untton, which is always a favorite joint, consists of two loins. Make an incision in. 228 MUTTON on LAMB. either side, stopping just short of the back-bone, and cut lengthwise. Then cut up one side before you begin upon the other, and let the slices be of moderate thickness; serving with each a thin slice of fat, cut lengthways from the outer edge of the lower sides. Having finished one side, pursue a siniilar line of operations with the other. Help to each guest some of the gravy out of the meat. The linder part is seldom served hot, yet it contains some very delicate eating. A Loin of Mutton should always be jointed by either the butcher or cook before it is sent to table. The carver merely separates the, meat into chops, begin- |ning at. the narrow end, and serves them round. A Fore-quarter of Lamb requires a careful carver to do it justice. Sometimes he will have first to separate the shoulder from the ribs. To do this it will be necessary to insert the fork towards the knuckle, and to cut with the knife held nearly hori- zontally, and theil to raise the fork, cutting through the meat of the flap, so as not to leave the ribs tipo bare. In a well-regulated family, however, all this trouble is spared the carver — the cook having seen to the separation beforehand— and he has only to lift the shoulder with the fork, and to place it on a separate dish. He must then separate the brisket from the ribs (if hot already done), by cutting straight across. To a novice this is no easy matter; but practice soon makes perfect. The more solid meat lies to the right, and the brisket is to be served in squares. A portion of each is usually placed on LEG OF PORK. ,229 the plate. Where that practice does not prevail the choice is ribs, brisket, or shoulder; the latter bping carved like a shoulder of mutton. Leg of Lamb and Loin of Lamb are carved exactly as mutton, but the fat being more delicate, it is handed round with a more liberal hand. PORK. A Boast Pig. — To eat this with a proper zest, a copy of Elia's Essays should be at the carver's right hand; for without it he will forget half the dainties which Charles the inimitable has pointed out as nestling about the ribs and neck, and ears arid jaw of the little favorite. It is usually cut up before it ■ is sent to table, and the cook should be told to divide the head. The carver must then remove the brains, and mix them with the gravy and stuffing. The pig is cut asunder from the shoulder to the tail, right down the center of the back, and subdivided into squares. Help each, with its proper adjunct of gravy afld stuffing; with a liberal hand; for to help roast pig niggardly was deemed a gross insult by Dr. Parr, and others may have the like notion. The ribs are still esteemed by some the best eating, though by others the neck is preferred. The ear and jaw are considered delicacies; but the fact is, the whole is good eating, and the carver has only tp see that it is served as hot as possible. A Leg of Pork should be cut across. If boiled, the slices are served thinner than when roasted. In the latter case the carver is somewhat regulated by 230 VEAL. the incisions made in the skin before roasting, and which are known as "crackling" to all lovers of the dish. Having made the incjsions, the cu,ts are made right and left alternately. The seasoning will be found under the skin; but many persons send the seasoning in the dish. A Loin of Pork is carved as a loin of mutton, placing one chop upon each plate. A Hand of Pork may be carved by cutting slices acrqss, as in a shoulder of mutton, and also from off the blade-bone. VEAL. A Filet of Veal is cut in the same way as a round of beef; but as the browned outside is considered a' choice part, it should be ascertained whether outside or inside be preferred. The horizontal slices should 'be delicately cut, and to every one a portion of the stuffing should be served, with a little of the fat. A Loin of Veal may be cut up either into single chops, diyiding the meat into handsome slices,, and serving the bone with one, or, if the joint chosen be the, chump end, in long slices. The smallest end contains the more solid meat. The fat and the kidney are underneath. The latter is considered the epicure's portion, and should not be forgotten. A Knuckle of Veal, "whether you buy it or steal," is not a dish to be despised, and reserved only for, the 3ick-room,. As a veal soup it is in great favor itt Scotland, and though not popular cis a joint, there, are not wanting thos.e with whom it is a great CALF'S HEAD, DIVIDED. 231 favorite. It reqmres a little practice to carve a knuckle of veal neatly, and with satisfaction to one's self. It must be cut across. The fat is con- sidered a delicacy. A Breast of Veal consists of gristles and ribs, and it is necessary to separate them. Then divide the ribs. The sweetbread should be served round with each plate. The choice is gristles or ribs. A Oigot, or Gigett of Veal is either cut in h9rizon- tal slices, or as a leg of mutton, beginning near to the broad end. A Shoulder of- Veal is served like a shoulder of mutton. Neither the gigot nor shoulder is much prized unless the veal be small, when they are deli- cate eating. A Calf 8 Head, Divided. — In serving this favorite dish, take care to press the knife to the bone in cutting slices. The root of the tongue should be served round to those that like it. There is some delicate meat under the jaw-bone. The brains and tongue are placed on a separate dish, but care should be taken to serve some to each guest. Do. this alsb with the palate, seated under the head, which should be, therefore, cut up in small pieces before you begin to help round. The eye, which some fancy, should be divided. GAME Requires more attention than poultry; because, being in the first place less plentiful, a skilful ^^rver must ftiake the most of what is placed before ,232 GAME. h ... him; and in the second place, as the cold birds come in well at' the breakfast and thie lunch table, it is often as well not to cut off more than is required for the immediate occasion. , ' A Haiincli of Venison is cut just like a haunch of mutton. The fat, .which is highly prized, will be found chiefly on the left side. Recollect . that, unless venison be fat, it is but mocking the appetite of your guests to place it before them, and' that everybody likes venison fat. The alderman's walk, the primest part of the, joint, is in the side where the fat abounds. A Hare or Rabbit is usually sent to table on her haunches. If the hare be large, a couple o,f long slices may first be taken from either side. If so, the legs nlust next be taken off, and then separate the shoulders. The back; is now to be cut through in three or four pieces, going right through, the spine. The legs should be divided in two Divide algothe head by inserting the point of the knife at the top, and cut it through in the direction of the nose. Some persons first separate the upper from the under jaw.^ The ears should be ci;t off. close to the roots. The head, brains, and ears are by some persons considered dainty morsels. It is becoming the fashion to have hares boned before roasting, which saves the carver an immensity of trouble. No old hare should be roasted, unless pre- ; viously boned; let it be jugged; this is the best way of serving it, for it requires great experience to c§rve' ^n old hare. It is customary in some locali- GROUSE. 233 ties to cut upMhe whole before any is served. The stuffing, to be sent with every plate, will be found ifiside. A Babbit Boasted is served in the same way as a hare; but, being of less dimensions, the back is cut in fewer pieces. The head is not sent unless it is asked for. It is always a wild rabbit that is roasted. It is either stuffed as a hare, or, when young, merely served with its own liver sauce. A Babbit Boiled may be cut up in the same way as its roasted brother. The middle piece of the back is the epicure's choice, Coarserfleshed rabbits are best boiled or curried. The remains of either roast or boiled rabbits or game may be formed into quenelles, or forced-meat rissoles — a favorite side dish. A Partridge is carved partly like a duck and partly like a fowl. The breast should bp cut up in slices, fixiftg first the fork in its center. Then take off the legs and the wings, being careful to hit the exact point between th'e wing and the neck-bonq. Next remove the merry-thougbt, and the neck-bones, side-bones, etc:, as directed to be done with a roast- fowl. Split open the head, as many consider the brains a luxury. , Grouse are carved like partridges; and wood- cocks, snipes, quails, and other similar birds, either in the same way when there is a scarcity at the table, or if plentiful, they are merely cut in halves. Upon this point the carver must exercise his owri ^iiscretioii, 234 USEFUL HINTS FOR THE HOUSEKEEPER. Ham and Tongue are concomitants to so many of the good things brought to the festive board, that they may welLclaim a word from us. A Ham should be cut deliciously thin, not fool- ishly so. The most prevalent way is to begin cutting your slices near the small end, and proceed towards the thick end. That contains all the, prime cuts. The knuckle is best dried and grated. A baked hani eats shorter than a boiled one, and the slices may be cut. much thinner. A Tongue is best in the thickest part, . and there- fore the proper way is to cut it nearly through at the middle. Then serve it in. thin slices, right and left, helping fat to those who ask for it. from the under side.' A stewed tongue makes a savory dish, and is generally served in its own sauce, with small mush- rooms or onions. The slices ^re cut from the root to the tip, lengthways. ' USEFUL HINTS FOR THE HOUSEKEEPER. To Ventilate a Eoom.— Place a pitcher of cold water on a table in your room and it will absorb all the gases, with which the room is filled from the respiration of those eating or sleeping in the, apart- ment. Very few realize how important such purifi- cation is for the heailth of the family, or, indeed, understand or realize that there can be any impurity in the rooms; yet in a few hours a pitcher or pail of cold water^the colder the more effective^ — will make the air of a room pure, but the water will be entirely unfit for use. MOTHS IN CARPETS. 235 Moths in Carpets.— If y)u fear that they are: at work at the edge of the carpet, it will sometimes suffice to lay a wet towel, and press a hot flatiron over it; but the best way is to take the carpet up, and clean it, and give a good deal of attention to the floor. Look in the cracks and if you discover signs of moths, wash the floor with benzine and scatter red pepper on it before putting the carpet lining down. Heavy carpets sometimes do not require taking up every year unless in constant use. "take out, the tacks from these, fold the carpets back, wash the floor in strong suds with a tablespoonful of borax dissolved in them. Dash with insect powder, or lay with tobacco leaves along the edge and retack. Or use turpentine, the enemy of buffalo , moths, carpet worms and other insects that injure and destroy carpets.' Mix the turpentine with pure water in the proportion of three tablespoonfuls to three quarts of water, and then after the carpet has - been well svfept, go over each breadth carefully with a sponge dipped in the solution and wrung nearly dry. Change the water as often as it becomes dirty. The carpet will be nicely cleaned as well as disinfected. All moths can be kept away and the eggs destroyed by this means. Spots may be renovated by the use of ox-gall or ammonia and water. '' A good way to brighten a carpet is to put a half tumbler of spirits of turpentine in a basin of water, and dip your broom in it and (sweep over the carpet once or twice, and it will restore the color and brighten it until you would think it new. Another , 1236 USEFUL HINTS POR THE HOVSEtCMEPER. good way to clean old carpets is to rub them over with meal; just dampen t a very little and riib the carpet with it, and when perfectly dry, sweep ovier with rheal. After a carpet is thoroughly swept, rub it with a cloth dipped in water and ammonia; it will brighten the colors and make it look like new. To Remove Moths from Furniture. — Moths iiiay be exterminated or driven from upholstered work by sprinkling this with benzine. The behzitie is put in a small watering pot, such as is used for sprinkling house-plants; it does not spot the most delicate silk, and the unpleasant odor passes off in an hour^or two in the air. Care must be used, not to carry on this work near a fire or flaime as the vapor of benzine is very inflammable. It is said that a little spirits of turpentine added to the water with which floors are washed will prevent the ravages of moths. To Clean Mica-— To clean mica in a stove that has been blackened with smoke, take it out and thor- oughly Wash with vinegar. If the black does not come off at once let it soak a little. Novel Dress Mending.— A novel way of mending a woolen or silk diress in which a round hole has been torn, and wh^re only a patch could remedy matters, is the following: The frayed portions around the tear should be carefully smoothed, and a i piece of the, material, moistened with very thin mucilage^ placed under the hole. A heavy weight should be put upon it until it is dry, when it is only possible to discover the mended place by careful observation. TO REMOVE THE ODOR OF ONlON. .. 237 Cement for Broken China or Glass.— Dissolve one- half ounce of gum arable in a wineglassful of boiling water; add plaster of Paris sufficient to form a. thick paste, and apply it with a brush >to the broken parts; being nearly colorless, it is better than liquid glue or other cements. To Set a Color.— One tablespoonf ul of ox-gall in a pint of water is siifficient; it is immaterial whether cotton, sijk, or woolen fabrics. , . To Keep Lemons.^ — Cover with cold waterj'changing it every week. This njakes them ripe and juicy. To Purify Sinks and Drains. — To one pound of common copperas add one gallon of boiling water and use when dissolved. The copperas is deadly poison, and should always be carefully labeled if kept on hand. This is one of the best possible cleansers of pipes and drains. All pipes leading from the kitchen should have boiling lye turned down them once a week at least, in sufficient quan- tities to eat away the accumulation of grease that coats the interior of the pipe. A few drops of car- bolic acid should be poured down the pipes leading from stationary washstands. To Purify Cisterns. — To purify cisterns where the water has an unpleasant odor, suspend in the water a musHn cloth containing one or more pounds of charcoal. Smoked Ceilings. — Smoked ceilings that have been blackened by a kerdsene lamp may be washed off with soda water. To Eemove the Odor of Onion from fish-kettles and ■iliU^EFVL HINTS FOR THE HO t/SE KEEPER. saucepans in which they have been cooked, put in wood-ashes or sal soda, potash or lye; fill with water and let stand on the stove until it boils; then yirash in hot suds and rinse well. To Bemove Old Putty from Window Frames pass a red-hot poker slowly over it and it will come off easily. To Trim Lamps. — Do not cut the wick, tprn it just above the tube, take a match and shave off the charred end, thus insuring an even flame. Then turn the wick down below the edge of the tube that it may not draw up oil to soil the outside of the lamp. Do not fill too full; kerosene kept, in a warm room expands considerably and the resiilt, will be oily lamps, disagreeable to handle. To Prevent a Lamp from Smoking soak the wick in vinegar and dry it well before using. < To Remove Paint from Window Olass. — Rub it well with hot sharp vinegar. To Clean Stovepipe. — A piece of zinc put on the- live poals; in the stove will clean out the stovepipe. To Take Ink out of Linen.— Dip the ink-spot in pure iHelted tallow, then wash out the tallow and thfe ink will come out with it. This is said to be unfailing. Milk will remove ink from linen or colored muslins when acids would be ruinoi/s, by soaking the goods until the spot is very faint and • then rubbing and rinsing in cold water. Mosquito Remedy,— :To clear a sleeping-room of mosquitoes take, a piece of paper rolled around a lead pencil to fortn a case, arid, fill this with very PAPER-HANGERS' PASTt. 239 dry Pyrethrum powder (Persian insect powder),, putting in a little at a time, and pressing' it down with the pencil; This cartridge, op cigarette, may be set in a cup of sand tt) hold it erect. An hour before going to bed the room is to be closed, and one of these cartridges burned. A single cartridge will answer for a small room, but for a large one two are required. Those who have tried this find it eftectually disposes of thp mosquitoes. To Toughen Lamp Chimneys and Glassware., — Immerse the article in a pot filled with cold water, to which some common salt has been added. Boil the water well, then cool slowly. Glass treated in this way will resist any sudden change of temper- ature. ^. Faded Ooods. — Plush goods and all articles dyed with aniline colors which have faded from exposure to the light will look as bright as new after. sponging with chloroform. Paper-hangers' Paste. — To make paper-hangers' paste beat up four pounds of good, white wheat flour (well sifted previously) in sufficient cold water to form a stiff batter. Beat it well in order to take out all lumps, and then add enough cold'water to ijiake the mixture of the consistency of pudding batter. To this add about two, ounces of well pounded alum. Pour gently and quickly over thfe; batter boiling water, stirring rapidly at the same time, and -when it is seen to lose the white color of the flour, it is cooked and ready. Do not use it, however, while hot, but allow it to cool. Pour 240 USEFUL HINTS WR THE HOUSEKEEPER. about a pint of cold-water over the top to prevent a skin from forming. Before using, the paste should be thinned by the addition of cold, water. To Clean Iron Sinks. — Rub them well with a cloth wet with kerosene oil. Death to Bugs. — Varnish is death to the most per- sistent bug. It is cheap — ten cents' worth will do for one bedstead — is easily used, is safe,- arid improve^ the looks of the furniture to which, it is applied. The application must, however, be thorough — the slats, sides and every crack and corner receiving attention. ' To Drive Away Bed Bugs. — Take the whites of/ four eggs and ten cents' worth of quicksilver, and beat together until a stiff froth. Take a feather, dip in, and apply to the bedstead. Ammonia is not only useful for cleaning, but as a household, medicine. Half a teaspoonful taken in half a tumbler of water is far better for faintness than alcoholic stimulants. In the Temperance Hospital, , in London, it is used with the best results. It was used freely by Lieutenant Greely's Arctic party for keeping up circulation. It is a relief in nervous- ness, headache and heart disturbances. Canned Fruit is much better if opened an hour or two before using, to restore the oxygehi Bhnbarb scalded a few minutes before coQking ■ will require njuch less sugar.