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L4 TH.DE DILLMONT, EDITOR
i MVLHOVSE (ALSACE)
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CORNELL UNlVERSn
D-M-C THREAD CO. LTD.,
25, Goswell Road, LONDON, E. C. 1.
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DMC LIBRARY
Embroidery
on Net
TH. DE DILLMONT, EDITOR
MULHOUSE (Alsace)
Cornell University
Library
The original of tiiis book is in
tine Cornell University Library.
There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.
http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924086746884
Strip of Embroidered Net.
Embroidery on Net.
Embroidery on net has become one of the most attractive
kinds of needlework, being both easy to do and adaptable to a
great variety of uses. The reason of its noj having until novi'
taken its rightful place amongst the many different forms of
needlework, and of having failed to find favour with amateurs
of fancy work, is perhaps due ,to the knotted net on which it
had to be-done having to be made by hand which was a slow
and rather tedious process. But now net materials with meshes
of every sort of size are machine-made, which imitate the
hand-made to perfection and bear washing equally well.
The embroideries reproduced in the plates of the present
album have all been woi"ked on such machine-made net and
we have satisfied ourselves that it meets every requireinent and
in every respect equals the hand-made article.
Nevertheless, added to the description of the different em-
broidery stitches employed, the necessary directions for making
the net by hand are given in case any of pur readers should
prefer making it themselves.
Implements for making: the net (figs, i and 2). The
loops, or stitches as they are called, are made by means of
needles, and meshes or spools.
The needles are made of steel, wood or bone. For fine net,
^teel should be used ; the ends resemble pincers, with a hole
4 EMBROIDERY ON NET
bored through them below the fork, in which the thread is
secured, fig. i ; the middle is like an ordinary knitting needle.
The quantity of thread wound on lengthways between the
forked ends must depend on the size of the mesh or spool
employed, so that it may be slipped through the loops or stitches
without difficulty.
Besides these two implements, a weighted cushion is required
on which to pin the loop of coarse thread that holds the netting
whilst it is being made.
Materials. — The choice of the thread depends of course
on the purpose the net is intended for. Cotton, silk and linen
Fig. I. Steel netting needle. Reduced size.
Fig. i. Mesh or spool for netting. Natural size.
thread can all be used ; netted articles of one colour only are
generally made of cotton or flax; those of several colours, in
silk or in imitation silk.
Of the D.M.C articles, those we recommend for netting,
are : Flax thread for knitting D.M.C (Lin k tricoter); Flax lace
thread D.M.C (Lin pour dentelles), Alsatian thread D.M.C (Fil
d'Alsace), Pearl cotton D.M.C (Cotonperld) and Crochet cotton
6 cord D.M.C (Cordonnet 6 fils,. (*)
All these materials have a regular uniform twist and do
not knot in the working; *
Netting: stitches. — ■ The shape of the loops or stitches in
netting is always square or oblong.
First position of the hands (fig. 3). — Every piece of
net must be begun on a foundation loop of strong thread
4 to 8 in. long, which is pinned on to the weighted cushion.
Then fasten the netting-needle thread to this foundation loop.
Then take the mesh or spool in the left hand, holding it
between the thumb and forefinger straightening out the other
fingers beneath. Lay the thread over the spool and over the
second, third and fourth fingers, bring it back upwards behind
(*) See at the end of the book, the table of the sizes of the D.M.C cotton,
flax and silk articles. '
EMBROIDERY ON NET D
these three fingers and lay it to the left under the thumb which
holds it in position.
Second and third position of the hands (figs. 4 and 5).
Carry the thread downwards again behind the four fingers,
and slip the needle upwards from below through the loop
that is on the fingers, and through the loop at the back of
the spool or through the one to which the thread is fastened ;
Fig. 3. First position of the hands.
a second loop is thus formed on the left hand which the little
finger holds fast.
Then gradually tightening the thread you draw out the
fingers from the loop held by the little finger, and tighten the
loop passing over the second third and fourth fingers.
The last loop m.ust be kept on the little finger until the first
one is quite closed. Then only do you draw the little finger
out of the loop, tighten the knot and finish the stitch.
The subsequent stitches are made in the same way, whether
they serve for casting on the work or for making a netted ground.
6 EMBROIDERY ON NET
When you have cast on a sufficient number of loops, draw
out the mesh, then turn the work and, to begin a new row, lay
the spool against the row of finished stitches.
You then pass the needle through the last stitch of the
preceding row and make as many knots as there are loops.
Diagonal net. — The stitches just described form diagonal
net for which the work must be turned at the end of each row,
Fig. 4. Second position of the hands.
because it is always made in horizontal rows running from
left to right.
Diagonal net is very seldom used as a foundation for em-
broidery ; a net with straight stitches is generally preferred,
bordered with a. selvedge of double and triple stitches, as this
makes it easier to join several pieces together or sew them on
to a bit of stuif.
Shapes of net -with straight stitches. — A net ground
that is to be embroidered should be made just the necessary
size to avoid useless work and economise materials. We
subjoin directions for making squares, strips, frames and
rectangular pieces.
EMBROIDERY ON NET 7
Square of straight net (figs. 6 and 7). — To make net
squares with straight loops or stitches, begin by casting on two
loops or three knots. In every succeeding row make two knots
on the last loop so that each row is increased by one loop.
Continue to increase until you have one loop more than the
square should number.
After this row, with the extra loop, make one row without
Fig. 5. Third position of the hands.
either increase or intake, begin the intakes in the next row by
joining the two last loops of every row by a knot.
Slip the two last stitches, that is to say, join them by a
knot, but draw the spool or mesh out of the loop before
tightening the knot,
Rectangular piece of straight net. — Begin, as for
the square, figs. 6 and 7, by casting on two stitches and continuing
to increase to the length of the short side, and than make a row
without increasing. After that make one row with an increase,
and one with a decrease, until the side with the increases is the
requisite length for the rectangular piece. You must see that
the stitches do not become too short oh the side where you
increase ; this very easily happens beca.use the double knot,
8
EMBROIDERY ON -NET
Fig; 6.
Square of straight net.
Begun. .
resulting from the increase, takes more room than the decrease,
where you join two stitches by a knot. You finish the shape
like a square by decreasing at the end" of each row.
Strip of straight net (fig. 8). — The simplest way to
niake such strips is to cast on the required number of stitches,
decrease on one side by joining two stitches by a knot and in-
crease on the other side by making two knots in one stitch.
Care must be taken not to change the order of the decreases
and the increases as any mistake of
that kind would interrupt the lines
of the squares.
How to make the corners of a
strip. — This is done by decreasing
as usual on the inner side, then making
a new loop on the last loop so as to
form the angle. You then go on
making the strip, but with this diffe-
rence, that you make the increases on
the inside and the decreases on the
outside. (See also the directions fof
the square frame of net, fig. g.)
Square frame of net (fig. 9).
— After casting on the loops as for
an ordinary piece of net, letter a,
increase them to the number of eight,
then make four loops, skip the last*
four of the preceding row, turn, make
five loops, increase at the last one,
make four loops and decrease at the
last, turn, make five loops, increase at
the last one, turn, make four loops,
decrease at the last one, then increase at the same loop, turn,
make four loops and decrease at the last one, turn, make five
loops, increase at the last, turn, make four loops, decrease at the
last, turn, make five loops, increase at the last one, cut the thread.
Fasten the thread on at the outside edge where the four
empty loops are, point c, make four loops, turn, make five
loops, increase at the last one, turn, make four loops, decrease
Fig. 7,
Square of straight net.
Finished.
EMBROIDERY ON NET
at the last one, turn, make five loops, increase at the last one,
turn, make four loops, decrease and increase at the last one,
turn,, make four loops, decrease at the last one, turn, make five
loops, increase at the last one, turn, make four loops, decrease
at the last one, turn, make five loops, increase at the last one
and cut the thread.
Fasten on the thread on the outside edge to the first loop,
slip the next loop, make six loops, and join the two separate
strips between the
third and the
fourth loop by a
knot on the last
loop of the left strip
and the first loop
of the right strip,
decrease at the last
of the six loops, Fig. 8. Strip of straight net.
turn, make six loops, turn,
then continuing to decrease,
make five loops, turn, make
four loops, turn, make three
loops, turn, make two loops,
turn, slip the last two loops.
Frames (fig. lo). Fof em-
broidery on net the latter must
be mounted in the ordinary
way on an embroidery frame,
if it be machine-made net; for
the hand-made, some prefer a
metal frame, particularly in the
case of a small piece of work.
Such a frame should be made of wire strong enough not to
yield when the net is stretched.
It may be square or oblong according to the shape of the
work to be done upon it.
The wire should be covered first with wadding, fig. .10, and
then with thin ribbon, wound tightly. round it, specially at the
corners so that it may be quite firm on the wire and not twist
Fig, 9.
Square of straight liet.
10
EMBROIDERY ON NET
about when the net is fastened on it. The ends of the ribbon
must then be secured by a few stitches.
Mounting the net on the wire frame without a braid.
tig. ii). — When the net is exactly the size of the inside of
the frame it need only be fastened in with overcasting stitches,
set more closely together at the corners.
Mounting a piece of net on the frame with a tape
(fig. 12). — If, on the contrary, the piece of net is smaller
than the frame it can be edged all round with a linen tape,
eased on in the sew-
ing so as to form
little gathers round
the net.
In this way the
net can be tightly
stretched without
tearing the outside
loops. Figure 12
shews how to sew on
the tape, to pleat it
at the corners atid
to fix the net in the
frame.
In mounting a
piece of machine-
Fig. 10. Metal frame tor embroidered net. ^^^^^ ^^^^ j^ j^ ^^^j,
sable to turn in the edges a little, as the woven loops are not
so firm as the knots made by hand.
Needles. — Special needles are required for this work, long
and blunt, known as "filet-guipure" needles, made in numbers
I to 6.
Materials. -. — For embroidery on net the same material
should be used as the one the ground is made of; twisted
threads for the various lace stitches and soft loose ones for the
darning stitches and the outlines.
The best twisted threads for the purpose are either Flax
thread for knitting D.M.C (Lin' k tricoter), Flax lace thread
D.M.C (Lin pour dentelles), or Pearl cotton D.M.C (Coton
EMBROIDERY ON NET
I I
Fig. II. Mounting net on the metal frame
without webbing.
perl^) ; for a loose thread
take either Special
stranded cotton D.M.C
(Mouhn^ special),
Stranded flax thread
D.M.C (Lin moulin^),
Stranded silk D.M.C
(Sole moulinde) or
Persian silk D.M.C (Soie
de Perse).
Stitches. — Little
squares of net serve as a
foundation for a number
of different stitches and
these stitches lend them-
selves to so man\- com-
binations that we are
sure that amongst those we are going to describe there will be
some unknown to our readers. We can say for certain that
many of them we have never met with either described or
illustrated in any publication we have come across.
Darning stitch, (figs .
r3 and 14). — '■ The sim-
plest stitch for covering
a net ground is dar-
ning stitch. It is done
over a prescribed num-
ber of squares, across
which the thread is
carried backwards and
forwards until they are
filled in. It is the stitch
generally used when a
pattern consisting of
counted stitches, such
as a cross stitch one,
is to be reproduced on pig. 12. Mounting net on the metal
a net ground. frame with webbing.
12
EMBROIDERY ON NET
It is specially useful in the case of large pieces of work such
as curtains and bed-spreads as it throws up the pattern and is
very quickly done.
It may happen that you have, as you go, to change the
direction of the darning stitch; figure 14 explains how this is
done. It is also very often used for
embroidering outlines, we will refer
to this again further on, poge 22. (')
Linen stitch (figs. i5, 16, 17, 18).
■^ This is the stitch most ofton met
with in the old: embroideries and the
"grounds of leaves and flowers as well
'as the edges are generally worked in it.
After fastening the thread to a
knot of the net it is, carried twice to
Fig. 1 3. Darning stitch. ^^^ f^^ ^^^^ ^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ threads
of the net so that every second thread passes at the end of the
row under the thread of the net and over it when it is brought
upwards again. This forms the body of the linen stitch which
is completed by the second series of stitches, the same as in
darning stitch (see fig. 16.)
When linen stitch is to form a
corner, begin by carrying the threads
over a prescribed number of squares.
In this first row the threads must be
left very slack, and in order that they
should all be of the same length lay
a fine mesh or a coarse knitting needle
on the last square over which to stretch
the threads. After finishing a few
squares in linen stitch, the auxiliary
mesh can be removed. The threads of the first layer get shorter
by degrees through being constantly taken up and dropped by
the passage of the second layer of threads until they are not
long enough to prevent the last embroidered squares becoming
too tightly stretched. Having reached the corner cross the
Fig. 14. Darning stitcli.
Change of direction.
(*) See also the Encyclopedia of Needlework by Th. de Dillmont, the chapter
on Netting.
EMBROIDERY ON NET
l3
threads of the next row as shewn in figure 17. The first threads
of the second side form the linen ground of the corner square ;
from the second corner square pass to the third ; from the third
to the fourth, passing under and over the- threads laid for the
first corner..
The old embroideries are done on very fine net, and the
linen stitch is worked in two layers of threads only, that is in
Fig. 1 5. Linen stitch
of four threads.
Laying the fir^t stitches.
Fig. 16. Linen stiti.h
of four threads.
Laying the. second stitches.
Fig. 17. Linen stitch of tour threads.
Formation of the corners.
Fig. 18. Linen stitth
of two threads.
one journey to and fro. Figure 18 illustrates, in the working,
a little "figure in linen stitch in two layers of threads.
Loop stitch (figs. 19, 20, 21). — Loop stitch is generally
used to make a more transparent ground than- can be obtained
with linen stitch.
There sre two kinds of loop stitch, the straight and the
slanting.
14
EMBROIDERY ON NET
For the straight kind fasten the thread to the middle of a
vertical bar of the net, then make a loop reaching to the middle
of the next horizontal bar (fig. 19). These loops are always
made from left to right ; the thread must be laid to the right
and the needle passes downwards from above under the bar
and in front of the thread. The length -of the loop must be
half the height of the bars of the net.
For the second row turn the work, make a stitch over the
vertical bar of the net, pass the thread under the bar of the net,
as in the first row, then over the loop and under the bar which
is under the loop.
Figure 20 shews the way to join the rows of loop stitch to-
gether and how to pass the needle through the existing stitches.
Fig. 19. Straight loop stitch.
First and second journey.
Fig. 2b. Straight loop stitch.
Row of stitches finished.
For slanting or diagonal loop stitch, fig, 21, you make the
loop stitches round the knots, instead of round the bars of the
net, so that the stitches quite naturally take a slanting direction.
The thread must be carried round and not over the knots, and
regularly plaited on which account it is sometimes called
"plaited stitch".
As figure 21 shews, you can only fill every other stitch of the
net and that makes this ground more transparent than the
preceding one.
Star composed of long straight stitches (figs. 22, 23,
24). — This star covers sixteen squares of net. Fasten your
'thread to the middle knot of the sixteen squares, then carry it
in a diagonal line from left to right, under a knot of the net.
EMBROIDERY ON NET
1 5
bring it back towards the other extremity of the square formed
by the sixteen squares of net, slip the needle under the knot
and lay three threads in this same direction (see fig. 22). This
forms the underneath rays of
the star.
To make the stitches that com-
plete the figure take the .starting
point as the centre and, following
the direction of the arrow, cover
the net with three threads in a
vertical line an dthree others in a
horizontal line (fig. 23).
That being done, slip the
needle four or five times under
the threads just laid — never Fig- 21- Oblique loop stitch.
under the threads of the net — then fasten off your thread at
the back of the work (see the finished st^r, fig. 24).
Leaves in darningr stitch (figs. ib and 26). — This is a
stitch mostly used in making the fine . delicate leaves that
often.-adorn embroidered net. The
needle, starting from the middle, is
carried alternately to the right and
left ■ under the threads of the foun-
dation, and you push the stitches, as
you make them, close together with
the point of your needle. To make
these stitches to perfection you must
not forget to turn the work so as tb
have the finished stitches directed
towards you. First you stretch the ,^'g- '^-■
, , , , . , Star cemposed of long stitches.
threads, as the engravmg shews, to , . J . 1 ,. ,
' o o ' Laying the underneath threads.
the number of two or three, and then
make the leaf with one, often even with several veins. When
the leaf has only one vein, as shewn in the left part of figure 26,
the needle divides the prepared threads eqjaally into two, where,
as in the case of wider leaves which would be improved by
having two or more veins, you divide the threads accordingly
into three or four clusters.
i6
EMBROIDERY ON NET
In embroidering leaves in darning stitch you should also be
careful to push the stitches more closely together at the two ends,
and leave them rather more play in the middle. Figure 26 shews
two leaves completed ; one with one vein, the other with two.
.{
., L L I t S. t-
2
1
-5
t
lii4
jMiiini (1 - ■■■■'^"■■•■'■;mi.^-*^-^|||^B
^^^^^^i
H L* . !.> I' ^l u
l-'ig. -i'i. tig. 24.
Star composed of long stitches. Star composed of long stitches.
Laying the top threads. Finished.
Should you want whole sprays ot such leaves you must
embroider the stalks as well, beginning by laying three to five
threads for a foundation and then covering them closely with over-
25. Leaves in darning stitch.
Begun.
Pig. 26. Leaves in darning stitch.
Finished.
casting stitches so as to present the appearance of a round cord.
Scallops in darning: stitch (fig. 27). — Besides the stitches
that fill in the empty spaces of the net and the leaves em-
broidered upon them you may also make rather elongated
triangles. The simplest are those where the thread is carried
from the corner of the knot to the middle of the bar, descen-
ding then to the opposite knot and winding round it, to come
EMBROIDERY ON NET
'7
back to the starting point and up again to 'the middle. A foun-
dation is thus prepared for the darning stitch, which should
always be begun at the top of the scallop.
Scallops in buttonhole stitch (fig. 2^). — Another way
quite as pretty and easy as the preceding is, making two button-
hole stitches before passing to the opposite side.
Veined scallops (fig. 29). — A third way of making
scallops is to stretch a thread to and fro in the middle of a
Fig. 27, Scallops in darning stitch. Fig. 28. Scallops in buttonhole stitch.
square, then slip the needle from left to right under the middle
thread and from above downwards under the left bar. Then
Fig. 29, Veined scallops. Fig. 3o. Scallops in Venetian stitch.
the needle is passed from right to left over the stretched thread
and under the right bar, and so on.
The thread must be drawn rather tightly round the one it
encircles so that the stitches form a round and very even
vein at the back of the scallop. Enough stitches must be made
completely to cover the thread and fill the bottom of the square.
Scallops in Venetian stitch (fig. 3o). — The prettiest
scallops which best suit the character of embroidered net are
those done in Venetian stitch. You begin by making seven or
EMBROIDERY ON NET
eight buttonhole stitches on the bar of the net, then you con-
tinue making the same stitch, to and fro, decreasing in each
row by one stitch, until only one remains to be made, by
which 3rou fasten the scallop to the top bar.
The thread must be carried on the wrong side to the
next figure.
Wheels "worked in single darning stitch, and in inter-
verted darning stitch (figs. 3i and 82). — To make these
wheels, or spiders, as they are sometimes called, the thread is
fastened on at the junction of four squares ; carried diagonally
to the right and left (fig. 3i, left detail) across the empty space
and brought back to the middle after winding it round the
>J_.5._^_-i_i._i^-'
Fig. 3i. Laying the first threads
; for making a wheel,
, and the beginning of a .wheel.
I f I I t u
Fig. 32.
Wheels in single and interverted
darning stitch.
first. These diagonal threads should be closely covered with
overcasting stitches to give them the appearance of a firm cord.
■Bringing the thread back to the centre, pass it (see the leff
detail), over the diagonal threads as many times as is necessary
for the wheel to cover half a bar.
Figure 32 shews on the right a finished wheel in single dar-
ning stitch,, such as has just been described, whilst on the left
you have a wheel done in interverted darning stitch, that is to
say by dropping and picking up threads, as in darning.
The latter also shews how when the thread that forms the
foundation of the wheel starts from a corner it f emains single in
the first square until the wheel is finished; When it has attained
the requisite circumference, you stop the thread as it passes
before the one which is the continuation of the single thread, and
slip the needle through the wheel, to double the thread first laid.
EMBROIDERY ON NET
19
Fig. 33. Ribbed wheels. Fig. 34. Ribbed lozenges
Hibbed wheels (fig, 33). — Prepare a foundation the same as
for the preceding wheels, then make a back-stitch over one bar
of the net, shp the needle under the next bar and go on making
back-stitches until the bars of the net are covered with them.
Bribbed lozenges (fig. 34). — For these lozenges no founda-
tion is required ; the back-stitches are made directly on to the
bars of the net. Both
sides of the wheels
and lozenges can be
used in a piece of
work ; the engraving
shews both the
wrong and right side.
Wheels set with
loop stitch (fig. 35).
~ Often a wheel
occurs in a big square
of net which it
cannot sufii-
ciently fill; it
may then be
framed with
whole or half
loop stitches
to fill up the
surrounding
space.
The left part . ^ , • .
'^ Fie. 35. Wheels framed with loop stitches.
of our engra-
ving shews very distinctly how the thread, passing under the
wheel and twisting once round the thread laid for the wheel,
is carried round the square by. forming eight loops.
The arrow shews how you pick up the loops and finish the
first circle round the wheel. The second detail in the same
figure explains the laying of a second thread in the loops, and
how the thread is passed through them to make a second circle.
The white line serves as guide for the stitches. The third detail
represents a finished wheel.
20
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Star with corners in buttonhole stitch (fig. 36). — Few
kinds of embroidered net are so quickly executed as the one
shewn in fig. 36. Two buttonhole stitches on the outside and
a single crossing of the thread below are all that is needed to
make this pretty star. The middle square is ornamented with
a little wheel.
Star with corners in darning stitch (fig. Sy). — This
figure shews us a pretty subject worked in darning stitch made
over one laid thread and
over four bars of the net.
The left part of the figure
shews the subject begun.
Floweret in dot
stitch on a linen ground
(fig. 38). — With the help
of dot stitch a great
variety of supplementary
details and ornaments can
be produced on a foun-
dation of linen stitches.
Fig. 36. Star with corners in buttonlioie stitch. Framing the figUrOS.
It would be difficult to reproduce certain patterns on net unless
one could round off and soften the outlines with darning stitches
Or overcasting, as shewn in the
subsequent figures.
Linen stitch framed with
darning stitches (fig. 39). —
In framing linen stitches at
the corners with darning stit-
ches they must be set much
less closely than in figure 37 ;
you may also, instead of
stopping the stitches at each
corner, continue them round
1 1' 1 \ \,
-
"-
f^^^ !
^
x^
-■
ffjnir'-[fUtrK**>'i*^^'-'''>vV-\-;
.
"'l f " ""T '\: 1
Fig. 37. Star with corners
in darning stitch.
a square, as the left detail of the figure shews.
Linen stitch framed with overcasting stitches (fig. 40).
— Linen stitch is often bordered or framed with overcasting
stitches. In this case you can either lay a foundation thread all
EMBROIDERY ON NET
21
Fig. 38. Floweret in dot stitch
on linen ground.
round the figure and then overcast it or make a thick padding
round the edges and embroider the outlines over the bars of
the net as you do in white embroidery.
Outlines in darning and overcasting stitches. — Free-
hand designs require outUnes and veins in darning or over-
casting stitches, made without regard to the squares of the
net, as illustrated in several
of our plates. The outlines in
darning stitch are done in
several rounds in a pliable
thread of medium size ; for
overcasting a coarser thread
should be used ; for instance,
Special stranded cotton D.M.C
(Moulin^ special) N° 14 which
gives more relief to the over-
casting.
Cut stitch (fig. 41) — Here
"cut work" means half cove-
ring the bars with buttonhole
stitches and cutting away the
other half with scissors. The
inside bars are often ornamen-
ted with two-edged button-
holing and knotted picots. You
separate very slightly the stit-
ches of the first row of button-
holing so as to insert those of
the second row between.
In doing cut stitch on
machine-made net you should
strengthen only the outer side
of the bars with buttonhole
stitches and leave out such picots as would come too close
together, for the meshes of machine-made net are generally
very small and the picots would touch each other.
Fillings for machine-made net. — Here we give five
stitches suitable for this purpose. They are easy to do and
Fig. 39. Linen stitch framed with
darning stitches.
l^HI
.j_i_f:u_l_{_|_l4-L
Fig. 40. Linen stitch framed with
overcasting stitches.
22
EMBROIDERY ON NET
need little time or patience ; for which reasons they are generally
used for big pieces of decorative work. These stitches are
finished off outside by an embroidered outline of darning or
overcasting stitches, or else by a woven braid or twisted cord.
Ground in waved stitch (fig. 42). — Carry the thread
through every row of the net over two squares and behind a
knot and you have the stitch
in question.
Ground worked in hori-
zontal rows (fig. 43). — Make
half crosses over four squares
of net, then carry the thread
under tl^ree knots and two
squares of the net. In the
Fig. 41. Cut stitch. second row carry the thread
across the fifst one and you have the ground represented in
the engraving.
Ground formed of intersected loop stitches (fig. 44). —
Cover a whole row of squares with cross-stitches and skip
three rows of stitches. When you have covered a sufficient
number of rows with cross-stitches,
take a very long needleful of thread
and slip the needle upwards from
below and from right to left under
the two bars of the third top square ;
then come down to the first square
of the three lower rows and pass from
right to left under the bars, so as to
leave an interval of three squares be-
j tween the new stitches. The next row
of stitches is done in the same way
so that the stitches are not only set
contrariwise but cover each other reciprocally.
Latticed ground (fig. 45). — Begin by- running the thread
to and fro under two vertical bars and over three horizontal
ones. When the ground is quite covered, carry the thread from
right to left under the bars where the threads of the first bars
cross each other ; then take the thread over the elongated
Fig. 42.
Ground in waved stitch.
EMBROIDERY ON NET
23
crosses, corresponding to five squares of tlie net, and pass it in
tile same line under the bars of the net.
On the way hack, the long stitches intersect each other on
the stitches of the first rows. The lower rows are worked in
horizontal lines,- the upper in vertical.
Groiiiid in Russian stitch (fig. 46). — ^ Begin at the top,
pass the thread, from right to left, under one bar of the net.
^n
■
Fig. 43. Ground worked
in horizontal rows.
Fig. 44. Ground of intersected
loop stitches.
iy^\/A4v*4VAAVA'4Vl
ftA''Af^A4VA'AYi«/iA>
Fig. 45. Latticed Ground. Fig. 46. Ground in Russian stitch.
take it downwards over four squares and then again, from right
to left, under the second vertical bar ; ascending, cover again
four squares of the net and so on. The stitches bi the next row
are similarly made ; only you must see that the loops formed
by the stitches run parallel with the knots of the net.
Fillings for hand-made net. — Herd follows a series of
stitches to serve as fillings for hand-made net, referred to on
24
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Fig. 47. Ground in darning
and loop stitcli.
Fig. 48. Ground of little wheels
and buttonhole stitch.
Fig. 49. Ground of squares in darning
and loop stitch.
page 1 2 and copied from one of the
oldest and most curious pieces of
antique net existing. In all the
grounds worked in two kinds of
thread, all the stitches that are to
be worked in the coarsest thread
are to be worked first.
Ground in darning stitcli and
loop stitch (fig. 47). — The darning
stitches with which you begin the
ground are worked in the coarse
thread as well as the almond-shaped
ones that connect them ; the loop
stitches are made in the finer
thread.
Ground consisting of little
-wheels and loop stitches (fig.
48). — With a coarse thread
finish the wheels, only over the
bars, throughout the whole sur-
face of the net. Then, with the
fine thread surround them with
loop stitches, worked in rows, as
shewn in figure 20.
Ground consisting of
squares in darning and loop
stitch (fig. 49). — Darning stit-
ches worked horizontally in the
coarse-thread, over four squares
of the net, alternate with loop
stitches in fine thread covering,
the same number of squares.
Diagonal ground with
the squares framed (fig. 5o).
~- Pass the needle with a
coarse thread under the first
knot, from right to left, then
diagonally under the next knot
EMBROIDERY ON NET
25
from left to right. Repeat the same stitches twice, to and fro^
so that the squares of the net are framed with a double setting
of stitches.
When the whole ground is covered with these first stitches
take the fine thread and ■.make loop stitches in the squares
=i_i_Ji_«,_J_«^_4_J_{,_;_
1 .!>5ii,
-
• 1 > ) I 11 1 1 U > 1 1
Fig. 50.
Diagonal ground with the squares framed.
Fig. 5i.
Diagonal ground with cross stitches.
Fig. 52. Ground of squares in darning
and overcasting stitch.
Fig, 53. Ground of squares in darning
stitch with little wheels.
between, passing the needle regularly over the double stitch.
Lastly intersect the loop stitches by oblique threads slipping
the needle each time through the knot of the net.
Diagonal ground with cross stitches (fig. 5i). — For
this pattern which has a good deal of analogy with the stitch
26
EMBROIDERY ON NET
in the preceding pattern, you frame
the squares of net with three rows
of stitches worked to and fro, then,
once more to and fro, you make in
fine thread, cross-stitches over the
first ones.
Ground of squares in darning:
and overcasting stitches (fig. 52.)
— Grounds in which darning stit-
ches preponderate over others or
Fig. 34. GrounJ of squares equal them in number always
in darning stitch with big wheels, present a heavier appearance than
those already described and
should only be used therefore
where a very well-covered,
shaded surface is required.
Fill a diagonal line of squares
with darning stitches, fig. i3,
as close as possible, but an equal
number in each square, then
carry a thread between the
squares and double it coming
back b}' overcasting it.
Ground with squares of
stitch and little
- In figure 53 you fijl
the squares with darning stitches, as in
figure 52, and instead of making long
bars you introduce a wheel with four
spokes into each empty space.
Ground with squares of darning
stitch and big wheels (fig. 54). — In
figure 54 the darning stitches and the
wheels cover four squares of the net.
Ground w^ith big wheels (fig. 55i.
— Grounds of a certain size may be
ornamented with big. wheels worked in either of the waj's
described in figures 24 to 26.
Fig. d5. Groundof big wheels. darning
wheels (fig. 53).
Fig. 56. Ground in darning
and cross-stitch.
EMBROIDERY ON NET
27
Ground in darning stitch and cross-stitch (fig. 56). —
Begin, as before, witla the darning stitches and then do the
cross-stitches. To give them
the proper shape, finish all the
rows in one direction first; in
the next rows that cross the
first you insert the thread be-
tween the stitches first crossed.
Ground of geometrical
figures (fig. 57). — This stitch
which has no resemblance with
the former ones is composed
of simple geometrical lines.
Fasten the thread to a knot
of the net, then pass it, ^'S- ^"- (Jround of iieometncal figures
always diago-
nally under
three other
bars of the
net and repeat
this three
times ; after
that twist the
thread once Fig. 58.
round the Bordering in buttonhole stitch "on big-meshed net.
fourth bar of the net to fasten it, and come back to the
knot already encircled and repeat the four rounds, as in the
first instance. By always bringing
the thread back to the knot
where the next square is to begin
you will have four threads stret-
ched along two sides and five along
the other two.
Detached lozenges are also often
used for ornamenting wheels in
darning stitch ; in this case the
thread is carried under the vertical and horizontal bars which
formed the spokes of the wheel.
Fig. 59.
Bordering in buttonhole stitch
on s'm all-meshed net.
28 EMBROIDERY ON NET
Bordering in buttonhole stitch (figsi 58 and Bg). — Scallo-
ped edges in net should be buttonholed, always from right to
left. A padding of several threads should be laid down first to give
irelief -to the buttonhole stitches, you then cover the bars of
the net entirely, making besides, three to five stitches over the
knots of the net turned outwards ; the knots turned inwards
are skipped and the bars of the net must not be cut until the
whole border is- finished.
Fig. 58 shews a bordering buttonholed on large-meshed
net, which gives very square scallops. On small-meshed net
the scallops round themselves in the working, as seen in fig. 59.
To embellish the buttonholed bordering a picot braid may
be sewn on to the outside.
Note. — For the washing, ironing and pinning out of
embroideries on net see the chapter "Miscellaneous Directions'
in the Encyclopedia of Needlework, by Th^rese de Dillmont.
Persons wishing for further directions regarding the execution of the patterns
contained in EMBROIDERY ON NET
or the materials mentioned therein should address themselves to the firm of
TH. DE DILLMONT, at MULHOUSE (Alsace)
who will immediately furnish them with the required information.
Patterns
of Embroideries on Net
(20 Plates)
Plates I to XIV contain various unpublished patterns
for laces, strips and grounds.
Plate XV, copied from an old piece of embroidered
net, is composed of strips joined together by a con-
necting stitch.
Plate XVI represents a fragment of an old piece of
work exhibited in Paris, at the Cluny Museum.
Plates XVII to XX contain 12 subjects on a big scale
suitable for a piece of work like the one represented in
Plate XVI.
Plate I
EMBROIDERY ON NiET
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Plate 11
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Embroideries on net to be worked with the
D.M.C Cotton, Flax and Silk articles
Plate III
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Embroideries on net to be worked with the
D.M.C Cotton, Flax and Silk articles
Plate IV
EMBROIDERY ON NET
Embroideries on net to be worked with the
D.M.C Cotton, Flax and Silk articles
Plate V
EMBROIDERY ON NET
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D.M.C Cotton, Flax and Silk articles
Plate VI
EMBROIDERY ON NET
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