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E E cat weit este eening AP “ 2 ca A ie SPP eM ee papa yres 4 te Np fare PLT P OT IG 2 oe LTE RO RT a: i tse et rtpcies va nye aap a SP RPAM BP heheh he Fe bh saps ne oo » Sib abseeains dcked Ae ohewlie RASA ePID TRH AS - ioe ntnak katate Pe We *, en Petes ae, Tape ray oom ete wb pra focpiin ses 7 ete tent pes pe, atic ep ee pare nee ia) aoe pen teeteee Lee mateo adem rain : Fa f Niven te : pbnp doaksiok Riopepeien Spigot peers . Mom bes ents plas » oP be (i, - oo Rieter yebe cinco ntypin mi areats ace sts noe Patel ge mn a ees aren ebpabepaeokgs oe + S ¢ 2 Q. AWS SALI AGP LE Ae s, = meget : nner e renee ee aie cr creme PIMP SSS eres 2 : ; , mere Rn pace eee pe tertiane ee eee m Y site ri rn pth omg coe Ka en ne eee nb Bon oan rice hindi minor mgcwth Pale siappere Pop td the a a ge pe tr pices ate PAG IM RS ob § pwd Dy. RH FANE DO nN meses aoe ene Seed PRAISE ie FM, Maworan talWenewahnn ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY New YorK STATE COLLEGES OF AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY THE GIFT OF PAUL POMEROY IVES 2D IN MEMORY OF PAUL POMEROY IVES Date Due Library Bureau Cat. No. 1137 Cornell or Library SF 503.F62 1904 Breeders’ and cockers’ | | | i] 31924 003 119 wut eh aan a full ond il ag ee eS re Pee aie pe Ses ie Lb a a aie tk Re 4 1 he pe aitet Phe heh it Py es ms COPYRIGHT, AUGUST, 1904 BY THE AUTHOR. H. FLOCK’S REVISED Breeders’ and Cockers’ Cel LTE. A FULL AND COMPLETE TREATISE ON RAISING GAME FOWL. FULL INSTRUCTIONS IN EVERY DETAIL PERTAINING TO GAME FOWL. ¥ A FULL AND COMPLETE TREATISE ON DISEASES OF FOWL; HOW TO PREVENT DISEASE, AND CURES FOR ALL AILMENTS THE FOWL IS HEIR TO. PRESS OF MAacGOWAN & COOKE CO., CHATTANOOGA, TENN. T I} re VV ° Se 563 FoR /9O¥ aeaen E 6464 PREFACE, The author of this book has worded every article in such a manner that anyone that can read cannot fail to comprehend every word. Everything written in this book is instructive and from actual experience and from a practical standpoint. ‘Ihe author has had thirty-five years’ experience. A large field for practice; has been connected with the best cockers in the country, directly and indirectly; has seen all methods and its effects for conditioning ; has tried all kinds of medicines for various ailments the fowl is heir to; has seen the best cockers in the country tie on the gaffs, and from his large experi- ence and his connection with the best of cockers is able to give the fanciers a book that is full of practical com- mon. cock sense, useful and valuable to the breeder and cocker, young and old. Every article is full of informa-— tion. There is nothing lacking in this book for either breeder or cocker. ‘There are two metbods of condition- ing in this book, and they are, in my opinion, positively the best. I have tried all sorts of methods, and have found that if either of my methods are strictly carried out no other way can equal them. ‘Tbe author has re- frained from publishing anything that is not absolutely useful and instructive, and in this manner has given the fanciers a book that is full of common practical cock sense. INTRODUCTORY. The game fowl is at present and has long been a favor- ite, if not the most admired breed of all domestic fowls. The natural result has been the development of a great number of varieties. The game cock is the undisputed king of all poultry, requiring more careful judging than any other bird. T'o breed pure game fowl one must prevent promis- cuous Intercourse among other fowls of different varie- ties, even out of breeding season, for one single inter- course between adverse varieties may contaminate the gerins, or ova, for the whole lifetime of the fowl. TPO R ee ee ae: aie aOR eee aroha te 5 POMPOCUCIOIY 33. cic cdi sae io baie PRIN ee eek eeu 6 Fowl Confined Too Many in One Place.........0cchccceed 9 9 Magne and Droedine: io, ah ngs Gawain Ps Later vee 9 THR CC a es oe ee ee ee PRB CO COOIOTS: <5: 6. atc sae cas seed ovis oon eo hee eae 14 pede Brought in From’ Rangwesi:2.62..cineaciaeance hee 15 Keeping Cocks Cooped Before Using...........0..c6s0.i..5 ite. 17 Birds for Battle Should Be in Cock House Three Dave TGTOLe WOT RIN POM a ek ie i aa 19 Precaution in Ordering Gecks jc eee Eee 19 Brier OO VON. S80 OS 66S shee Siow SR om aLNT a ee 25 Table Showing How to Feed—Daily Routine ....... 00... 2... 28 Seven-Day Keep—Daily Routine... 88 Pewee aaa itd ok sae gk beeiabioh 43 How Much to Reduce a Bird........... Pacino raion wena pcaos aes 45 Pe eIOM. Al CeO IIE ¢. 3 caters renee date Gr wap esata 46 ET ae PM cosas, suck ns soangewne asad ics eaeeee es tease ean 48 Birds in Transit After Ordering for Battle... 00... 49 POPE OCR. SEIS. ot 5s, hehe Sita i ee 50 How to Make a Sun Coop and Work Bench ee captive mbes: 51 How-to répare: Oats i. civic, «cc pica 8 nee eo 52 PEO 00 so POD Ate COPk.. 325 o. a eh teeta 53 POGd (Or GTUOTION COOKE No...2.Gih adel nus cinta. ogee hn 54 Substitutes for Water........:... 0.02... ep ee eR Re Par CE TS 55 Caliioor Jeny and: How t0. Use dt ...nc oc ae ee 56 RO CO Make COCK Bread 8 oon nists prem wit akan eee 57 Linimenhs ror Wounded: Birds. ic o533..c nace fsesas isn) OE How to Make Piock’s Koup Powder... iscng anki. 58 PSOE So det See ee DRE aaa an a ee 58 Handling «....:.. ee a etd em ae de, RU FSI YS 61 Treatment of Wounded Birds... sdaccdsCe a eA RAE E 68 How to Test a Game Bird........ ... SE apa Rena anaes da eee PiaC Ring BM DUNO HRIMOe 3... ok ees nea RG Cut Down Birds for Breeding ....... Aalaa ead pO ee icO ee Birds That Have Been Ordered and Not Used..........00000..... : Fighting Stags .......... Se ee AR CMF aU Ag eer A Perey Seta ay Me oe Pakite Up ena 7 rimming Stage oo cece POGA.LO8 MOU POW io cs spog hates ape : ORR RG LONG bee ih as Fai Svs cas rsa cana eee os Hentai, fee cea Poor:tor Laying Mens... cso. eieuts eC ARC CE PCA IOP GRBs 8 cscs ca pes sasceatea a eee ie SO sos ha COURIER IR cacao AS, ON; ek tec ie eens Bae pe meron How to Make a Coop for Hen and Chicks 0.0... Shade in the Summer for. Chicks .... .. Ee eae Sree (eis Ae re Saber TUBCO BOWS. sei. cso soe, as Bins eg Re Egg Eating Fowl................ fa ees ee EN eg eee is oe Meee Te OTC a hs waite eR ae Agari = pontam Games and: Suipping Fowl: 62 os anki a Remedy for Greasing Fowl for Lice......... ....... Een ae Chicken Lice on Fowl—How to Cure ...... oo... ... ee acre Roray ing CNicwen "HOME. 5 oo Nasi een Wi cles ee i Winter Quarters for Fowl and Grit for Fowl....... 000000000... Rie CO SOTO SICH TION oe tk iter cue Coca ee Roup—General Treatise on Diseases of Fowls ....... DESY fae Catise Gf Roup...3.. cca Soy lage Sages ie eet te cane: So Salat es ope CPA VE QLD oo os ete cys Soe age ER SS ia & meee es RD ON css ES eetasee Neekin: posgne cae Be Werte or Near Pe APS Se 60 it hn es Reina ne cre ee ee ee Pre Bear OW (0: ReEMOVe COT efi g id aes ccac ccs wpe cad 0 TRU OL TRO O Robie sone endear ieee: hecctcante hina gs Koo) poi Dey SCR es sc pas ON ee eee ee Frozen Comb and Chicken Chsisin and Other Diseases... Cramp in Fowl! and Other Diseases... 0.0... cc..c000 cous scesesens Tonic and Physics for Fowl ................ Sree ee Ae cee oa Oo EIBOP IN Gti ties nets, fake is RS oe, detain wis Rien ee kG FOWLS CONFINED TOO MANY IN ONE PLACE. Wherever there are a large number of fowls confined there must be plenty of fresh air. Confined air is fatal to fowl. The effect of an insufficient supply of fresh air and the accumulation in the atmosphere of animal emanation being the cause of many diseases, especially roup. As a rule confined air does not effect a weak fowl as a well and vigorous one. A fowl that has been so confined for any length of time has lost its vitality. It cannot be used for pit purpose, it cannot be ordered, it should be put back on a range for some time until it recovers its strength and vigor. MATING AND BREEDING. This is a very important question that requires judg- ment and involves much thought. FIRST SELECT A BROOD COCK. In selecting a brood cock the first requirements are constitution and gameness. He must be a fowl of high class and blood, and should come from a line of fighters, one that gets his feet up above and he must be a fighter his head level. He should be large and strong and very 10 REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE active ; he should be full of nervous energy and be speedy. Action is a very important trait in a fighting cock; that trait is greatly overlooked by many breeders in selecting a brood cock. He should have a large head with bil wide set on at base. The bill should curve nicely at the point, the neck large and long, plentifully feathered, with heavy hack- els. His wings and tail feathers should be long, his plu- mage should set close, eye should be full and fiery, not of a dull, slow look, but an eye that denotes spirit and ambition and a defiant look. Shoulders should be broad, his body should be narrowing towards the vent, his sad- dle feathers should be plentiful and long, covering his back profusely. Thighs should be large, tapering nice- ly towards shanks. Shanks should be strong, of medium size, the spur should set close to foot. Scales on legs and toes perfectly slick, with a small fcat and long toes. He should not have a stilty look, nor a squatty look. He should have a graceful and proud carriage, spreading his tail as he travels with a stately walk, not a lubberly and sloppy gait. Every move he makes should denote action. ~ When the breeder has these important qualities in his brood cock, then his success in-raising Sighting cocks is assured, but he must first lay his foundation—constitu- tion and undoubted gameness. No matter how much of a fighter a fowl is, if he has no constitution, he is worth- less as a brood cock. Constitution and determined game- REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE. 1t1 ness are the two most important factors in raising game fowl. HENS. The hen should be clean and neat, not lubbery in ap- pearance, the same rule that govern a cock as to spirit and grace applies to the hen. Her tail feathers should be long, curving nicely at tips, wings long. She should fly nicely upon her roost and be perfectly healthy. Much more depends upon the mother than is generally sup- posed. ‘The same general characteristics should govern her that governs the cock, except his feathers. The number of hens apportioned to a cock must vary with the surroundings. If the fowls are given an abun- dant range, so that the requirements of nature in re- spect to exercise are complied with, their vigor will be such that from eight to ten hens will not be too many for one cock. When confined in a small yard with no special provisions for exercise half the number is suffi- cient if a cock is very alert. Care should be taken to allow him hens enough, so he may not worry them or injure them by too frequent at- tention. Hens should all be sisters, if vossible. When- ever a cock takes a dislike to a hen remove her at once or he will injure her. She will never do any more good while on a yard with him. BREEDING IN. 3 A careful breeder will avoid breeding in. A great 12 REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE. many fine strains have been utterly run out of all the essential qualities which made them successful through this mistake on the part of the breeder. Breeding in causes the loss of size, weakens the constitution, loss of bone and muscle and loss of that determination that is so highly necessary in a game fowl. Inbred cocks are hard to condition. They become delicate, both in strength and in eating. ‘They are not vigorous, cannot stand punishment; when conditioned they have no re- cuperating power; after a severe battle they will die from wounds that a vigorous fowl will soon get well of. It causes the fowl to lay less eggs. They moult and feather late, and are easy prey to disease. Breeding close, even, is productive of more delicacy of constitution than most breeders are ware of. Inbred chicks are hard to raise, cannot stand any sickness and are more sus- ceptible to sickness than the chicks that have a new in- fusion of blood. Should your fowl be robust and vigor- ous and you breed brothers and sister you will find that they will show signs of debility in their movements af- ter the first inbreeding. Breeding from too young a cock will cause weak chickens. Breeding from pullets too young will do the same. All breeding stock should be fully grown. If you breed a stag he should have age; put him on old hens, never pullets, put pullets with an old cock. It is more dangerous to cross brother and sister than REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE 13 it is offspring and parent. With an infusion of new blood it strengthens the fowl in every particular, it brings on new life, vigor and strength—these qualities are highly essential in a fighting cock. 3 When selecting a brood cock never take the individual fighter. Frequently you sec a cock of an inferior strain prove to be a great fighter. Probably he is the only one out of a bunch of ten that is a fighter, the other nine brothers are very inferior fighters. Such a cock makes a poor brood cock. He doesn’t come from a line of fighters. If you breed from him the chances would be his progeny would be very inferior fighters. He is not of high class and blood. When cocks are bred right they should be all fighters. While some would excell, yet they should all come fighters. In an inferior bred individual fighting cock you get no such result. If you get one in ten that is a fighter you are doing well. While not all high class fowls are fighters, yet it is highly necessary to have high class and blood to produce fighters. LINE BREEDING, Procure from some reliable breeders of game fowl some good healthy fowl with stamnia and vigor in as high degree as possible. Fight the cocks until one is se- lected for breeding purpose. He should be of good form and style and a fighter and a good cutter. Place him on 14 REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERSY’ GUIDE a range or pen with six good. hens, all sisters. Next year place him on his daughters, then next year place him on his granddaughters. Save the stags and breed from the ones that are alike the old cock in every particular. They will be about three-fourths of his own blood. These stags will breed the likeness and fight- ing qualities, in an eminent degree, of their grand old sire. Then take a hen of no relation, place her to samc old cock; he may be four or five years old; now, breed his sons that were three-fourths of his blood te his daugh- ters by this strange hen, and you will have line breed- ing pure and simple. BREEDING TO COLOR. Get the color you desire, both male and female. One | cock, say six hens—all same color. Breed them first year, next year place same cock on his own pullets and so on for three years. Have yard No. 2 that went through the same process at same time. Place the progeny of each result together and breed back and forth to the color always, cutting out those not suited, and in four or five years you can have all same color—and not lose their vigor either. Same precaution as to health and quality must pre- vail. Remember a snow white bird will sometimes throw a black one, and vice versa, like produces like with slight REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE 15 variations ‘The surroundings, such as other fowls in sight, their food, climate, etc., will come in for the va- riations. It is impossible to breed absolutely true to colors. Nature has fixed laws that we can’t fathom. 4 large percent. is all we can ever get as to color. BIRDS BROUGHT IN FROII RANGES FIRST DAY. Birds that have been in transit, or have been brought in off ranges, are generally very lousey and those that have been in transit both lousey and fu!! of fever. First thing to do for them is to cut off the spurs, then trim feathers from under the vent and grease them, then wash the feet and head with a sponge: for feet use soap and warm water, wipe dry and rub with alcohol or whis- key, or witch hazel; sponge the head with whiskey or alcohol or witch hazel, or vinegar with a little asafetidae added. Put plenty of fresh, clean straw in a clean coop. First feed: Give wheat bread and milk. The milk should be given warm. Give all they can eat and drink. It should be given in a sloppy state. The milk should be fresh and sweet, they cannot eat or drink too much of it. When given in this manner it acts as a physic; it is also both food and drink; it also allays fever. Give no 16 REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE medicine of any kind. A well fowl needs no medicine. By giving medicine you weaken the fowl. Give but one feed of bread and milk on the first day, but let them have all they can eat or drink of it when feeding. This treatment should be given to al! birds when they first arrive, whether they are intended for immediate use or not. SECOND DAY. Feed bread and milk warm; add some cooked corn meal (mush) that will thicken the food and will check the running off of the bowels; give all they will eat and drink, but feed only once. THIRD DAY. The cocks will be thoroughly cleane’'! and cooled out. They will be rea y for any food you may choose to give them. , Milk must not be boiled; it should be fresh and warm. Fresh milk is a laxative; boiled milk is an astringent. ‘T’o mix the food it is best to break up the bread in a pan; then pour water over it; let it seak a little while. then squeeze the water from the bread and put it into a pan and pour warm milk over it. In that manner there is a saving in the milk. Birds fed in this manner will wet their straw very much. Their bedding must be changed, but their feet REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE 17 end head should not be washed again until the day of weighing. ‘Too much washing gives them colds. KEEPING COCKS COOPED BEFORE USING THEM Birds can be kept cooped for some little time before being put through the process of keep, and not be much the worse for it. Providing the weather is cold, they should be worked just about one-fourth as much as the regular keep, and their food should be cooked oats and some green food about every other day, a little cracked corn should be added with their oats every other day with all the water they want to drink. They should be put in scratch coop every day; cocks that are not for _ Immediate use can best be kept by working a little and then feeding them once every day. When fed at regular intervals every day they will get along very nicely; when fed once a day they should be allowed to gorge them- selves. They should be worked a little, and the bulk of their food should be cooked oats. A cup of water should be hung in their coop, so they can get it at all times. They should have some green food every other day. A little cracked corn can be given them mixed in their oats every other day. When fed in this manner there is no danger of clogging them. They will keep healthy and strong. The oats will cut the fat out of him and will put meat on him, but they must be allowed to gorge 18 REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE themselves. ‘There is not the shghtest danger of them clogging up when fed once a day, and they will be better’ for it. A large number of breeders have continually a num- ber of birds on hand for various reasons. ‘These cooped birds can best be fed, as I have here stated, once a day. After they are once fed, nothing more should be given them but green food every other day and a little raw beef twice a week. When cocks are fed cooked oats they are not so susceptible to disease. The oats will keep them cooled out and keep their bowels open, and the green food will aid digestion and also act on the bowels. As long as bowels are loose and fowl are fed cooling food there is no danger of them getting fever. The oats should not be thoroughly dried out, should be moist. When fed in this manner birds’ flesh get very hard in a short while. They can be kept a month in this manner and feathers will look sleek and fowl will not loose much of his freshness. When birds are not for immediate use they are some- times carelessly handled by their keepers. When _ fed twice a day probably their crops are not examined before feeding. The results are in a short while bird refuses to eat, are either crop bound or has indigestion. In a few days roup will probably make its appearance. By feeding once a day you avoid all these difficulties. REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE 19 BIRDS FOR BATTLE SHOULD BE IN COCK | HOUSE THREE DAYS BEFORE WORKING THEM. Birds that are to be ordered for battle should be in the cock house three days before beginning to work them. It requires two days to thoroughly clean and cool them out. On their arrival they are tired and full of fever. It requires two or three days to get them in shape so it is safe to begin working them. Not until after the third day should any pretentions be made to work them. On the third day they should be fed hghtly on such food as is intended to order them on, principally cooked oats, and they should be given all they will drink of the barley water. ‘They should be put into scratch coops as often as possible on the first three days, and encouraged to scratch by throwing into the litter a little wheat or barley. PRECAUTION IN ORDERING. Great care must be taken and common sense must be exercised in ordering a main of birds. To successfully order a main of fowl you must at no time go to extremes either in feeding or working. At no time during the period of ordering should the fowl be distressed nor stinted in food. ‘The work should be uniform all through the time of ordering. No good results can be 20 REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE brought about by working a bird to extremes. It im- pairs strength and speed and recuperating power. Violent exercise should be avoided. As soon as a bird shows signs of distress, stop working him. By working a fowl when he becomes distressed you throw him into fever. Work should be given him by degrees and easy stages until he becomes used to his work, then the work should be uniform, twice a day. If you intend to flirt or hand spar a bird and give him 100 flirts, you must not give him the 100 flirts at one time. It should be given him in two workings, morning and night, 50 flirts each time. In that manner you would not distress him and the work would be beneficial, but if you were to give him the 100 straight flirts it would distress him and make him sore, and throw him into fever. You can- not order a fowl by crowding him with work and stint- ing him in food. Such birds won’t have recuperating power, and will be an easy victim. A fowl should at all times during the period of ordering be given all he can digest of such food as will allay fever, make strength and cut fat. No attempt should be made in the early stages of ordering of drawing a fowl. Dry food should be avoided until after the seventh day. Then it should be brought about by degrees. In the early stages of or- dering the fowls, bowels should be loose, droppings should be soft. The droppings should continue to be soft until you begin feeding dry food. By feeding moist REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE 21 food and keeping bowels open you avoid fever which a fowl will have in the early stages before he gets used to his work. By the seventh day he has become accustomed to his food and work and his system is in such shape that he is not susceptible to fever as in the early stages. He has begun to season. Then you can begin feeding dry food, but should you feed dry feed in the early stages. fever and roup must surely follow such a course. Working fowl brings on fever. As soon as a fowl has fever, stop working him. If you continue you excite fever, digestion stops and you throw him into roup. Fowl at no time during the period of ordering should be feverish or want for drink. If you give no water or a substitute you must feed in such a manner that the fowl’s system is in such shape he will not want water. In working fowl, if you find he has fever, stop working him at once. Don’t work or feed him anything until the fever has left sim. Great care must be exercised in the early stages of keep. In regard to feeding, feed very light at ‘first; they will not get used to their food until about the third day. Then they can be fed all they will digest. You must feed all they will pass. If a fowl won’t eat he won’t have strength, and if he hasn’t strength he won't have recuperating power. Birds should not be worked with feed in their crop, nor should they be fed until their crop is empty. One must not be careless about feeding a fowl with feed 22 REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE in his crop. If you feed at such times and his crop does not empty on the second or third feeding you must then stop feeding and working him. At such times a fowl must be watched, as it may be a case of roup in its infancy. Roup frequently follows where a a fowl fails to empty out well two or three times. Fever is far less lable to show in the latter stages of ordering than in the early stages, providing the fowl has gone through the proper process of seasoning. Birds frequently hang back in their coops, won't come to the front to eat at feeding time. When they do come they eat very daintily. What they do eat they fail to pass. Birds at such times are very easily thrown into roup if you continue to work them. Such should not be worked until thoroughly cleaned out, and then fed lightly until they recover their appetite. A feed of bread and milk is best for them at such times. Add a little powdered licorice. A feed of bread and milk will not interfere with a fowl or hamper him in getting in order if given at any time during the period of ordering, but it would not be advisable to give it on the last two days. The milk should be fresh and sweet and the bread should be wheat bread. When birds are fed cooked moist food they pass it. very readily. They will not have any great desire for water, nor are they so susceptible to fever when so fed. Water can at such times be discarded if the condi- tions of the bird justify. A fowl can get along without REVISED BREEDER®’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE 23 water for a long while, especially when the food is moist ; the moisture in the food answers the purpose. When dry grain is fed and the birds are being worked, that produces fever, and fever causes constipation. ‘These are sure results if fed on dry grain in the early stages of keep. A bird fed on cooked moist food will pass it in four hours (if not too much is given), his bowels are loose, he is constantly being kept cooled out, no danger of fever at such times. If the same amount of dry feed is given it will take eight hours for the food to pass into the gizzard, and that produces fever, and every time you feed him dry food you excite fever that; much more. The moment you begin working and feeding dry feed you begin to draw. After the bird has gone through the proper keep his system is in such shape that when fed dry feed it will bring about the required result without the least danger of fever. ‘The policy of feeding dry feed and begin drawing from the very start is very unwise and injurious. Birds cannot be ordered in that man- ner, and if ordered in that manner they will not be fit. Some birds frequently during the process of ordering will continually have a little feed in their crop at feed- ing time. Their food does not digest as it should. A little powdered licorice sprinkled over their food will aid them at times. If that does not answer it is best to throw him out. He may continue in that manner until the last two days, then he will probably regain his 24 REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE appetite and will eat all you give him. Such birds will not do for a long battle; they won’t have recuperating power; they will start off well and stand a reasonable amount of cutting, but when the battle is of long dura- tion they will surely let down. In working birds they should not be crowded with work. If you crowd the birds with the same amount of work in five days that should be given them in ten you injure them, they lose everything thet is essential to their proper condition. By the uniform system of work- ing they become seasoned by degrees and loose none of their necessary qualities. Before feeding every bird’s crop in the house that is to be fed, should be examined to see if he has food in his crop. If much or little, his coop should be marked with chalk accordingly and should not be fed until later. Those that have inuch had better not be fed until entirely empty. When a bird gets so he will refuse to eat while order- ing he should not be thrown aside, as he might be one of the most useful ones. Continue working him and ehange his food; give bread and milk and give him all the barley water he will drink, and when he begins eating (which he will after a treatment of this kind), feed him sparingly of his regular food. until he is_ thor- oughly at himself. By giving him. all the milk and barley water he can drink he will relax and get soft, REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE 25 but he will not loose strength and when he begins to eat he can soon be dried out again. When treated in this manner you do not loose the service of the bird, and you also bring back the bird to good health. Drugs must not be used at such times. A fowl needs no drug unless it is sick. You cannot order birds by filling their systems with drugs. Some birds that have had a free range will get into condition sooner than others. When in order they should then be given one-half of the usual work. When in order their flesh and muscles will be hard and skin drawn tightly on them. They will not blow when run- ning them on the work bench. Some will order in eight or nine days. By following my method the birds will all get in proper order without stinting them in either food or drink, their system will be in such shape that two feeds of dry corn will dry them out sufficiently. If work is not cut on bird when in order, you will overdo, he will get muscle bound and it is also a waste of strength. In wet, murky weather birds must not be worked; it gives them swell head and causes rattles in the throat. There ‘is not much danger after the eighth day, but it should be avoided if possible. HOW TO WORK BIRDS.» Catch a bird by both thighs, hold him from you with his head towards you, throw him back until he flutters, 26 REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE hold him perfectly still while he flutters. When he is exhausted place him on the work bench (it is best not to let him exhaust himself completely) and let him rest for a few seconds (you repeat this every time you work them until three days before the fight). After being rested place him on his feet, put your right hand behind him and push him to your left as far as you can reach without moving your feet. Then put your left hand behind him and bring him back to your right as far as you can reach. You repeat this and keep him at it for half a minute, then you flirt him fifteen times (or hand spar), then run him again for half a minute, then flirt him ten more times and then put him away. This is his first work. Second work: Repeat this in the evening. Second day you increase the work to 50 flirts and work two minutes on the bench; never go above 50 flirts, twice a day, morning and evening, at any one time, but always alternate; give 10 or 15 flirts and then run him a little; then give 10 or 15 more, then run another half minute, then again flirt him 10 or 15 times, run him again until you have consumed the two minutes and have given him his 50 flirts. At first work will be hard on the bird; also on the man doing the work, but the bird will soon get used to it. As the work progressts you run them faster after the third day, but always with this in view, not to overdo. You run him up to the day of the fight, but you decrease to one-half on the last day, but when REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE 27 the bird is ordered he then needs only exercise. As soon as the bird opens his mouth and shows signs of distress, let him rest until he recovers his wind. Then you can again put him through. The work must be given slowly at first, then after they get used to it in from three to five days you can then crowd them, but not to excess. The work should be given them in such a man- ner as to not distress them at any time during the period of ordering. The fiuttering gives the bird great wing power, and the running on the board gives them lung power. As soon as a bird is getting in order his breath- ing is not so severe and he does not open his mouth as wide as he did. When in order you can run him very fast and he will not open his mouth. If he arrives at such a stage and his flesh is firm and hard and his skin is tightly drawn, he is in order. Then cut his work to one-half and let that half be given slowly. A fat bird will open his mouth up to the last two days at times. The fat is not out of him as long as he opens his mouth while working. Such birds should be given their regular work up to the day of the fight. You must work a fat bird very slowly the first three or four days, as the work is very trying on him. He soon gets exhausted. .When so, you must let him fully recover his wind before proceeding any further with him. By this method of working the birds gradually become seasoned and will retain all that is essential. 28 REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE. Excessive work is very detrimental to a bird in every way. First place you distress him, that brings on fever, he won’t then digest his food, he will refuse to eat; if the fever is not broken he will get the roup; he will then have to be thrown out. TABLE SHOWING HOW TO FEED COCKS— DAILY ROUTINE After birds have been in the cock house three days and have gone through the proper provess of cleaning and cooling out, 1 begin working on the fourth day. I require twelve working days. I mix my feed according to the number of birds I have to feed in a big pan. Always warm the feed. In the early stages the bulk of the food should be moist oats. Pearl barley I allow in proportion one teaspoonful to a bird. In the early stages I feed the yolk as well as the white of eggs. J work the egg through the oats and barley with my fingers, so the oats is well coated. The birds relish it better when fed in that manner. - I give in proportion one egg to five birds. I work all the birds first and then feed them all atone time. If I have fifty birds I must have fifty cups. They must have their regular feeding time. Cups must be scalded after feed- ing. The food can be changed at any time, according to conditions of the birds; the feeder must judge. REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKER®S’ GUIDE 29 FIRST DAY. Morning—Let them flutter; hand spar (or flirt) 25 times; run 1 minute on bench. Morning feed: Oats, pearl barley and eggs. At noon: One ounce of finely chopped lean beef. At 1 p.m.: Barley water; let them have what they want of it, 6 or 8 swallows. Hvening—Same work as morning. Feed: Same as morning, oats, pearl barley and whole eggs. SECOND DAY. Morning Work—Let them fiutter; work on bench 2 minutes; 50 flirts. | Feed: Oats, pearl barley and eggs. At noon: ‘Two ounces of finely chopped lean beef. At i p.m.: Barley water, 6 or 8 swallows. Hvening—Give same work. Feed: Oats, pearl barley and egg; throw in a few handsful of cracked corn. THIRD DAY. Morning—Let them flutter; 50 flirts and work on bench 2 minutes. i Feed—Oats, pearl barley and egg. At noon give about 2 ounches of finely chopped apple and at 1 p. m. 6 swallows of barley water. 30 REVISED BREEDERS’ AND COCKERS’ GUIDE © At 3 p. m. I muff them and select what I think best. No more work this day. Feed in the evening: Oats, pearl barley and egg; add a little cracked corn. FOURTH DAY. Morning—Let them flutter 50 flirts; work 2 minutes on bench. Feed: Oats, pearl barley and egg. At noon: Beef 2 ounces. At 1 p. m.: Barley water, 6 swallows. Evening—Give same work as morning. Feed: Oats, pearl barley and egg. PIVLTEH- DAY. Morning—Let them flutter 50 flirts; work 2 minutes on the bench. Feed: Oats, pearl barley and eggs. At noon: 'T'wo ounces of beef. At1p.m.: Six swallows of barley water. Evening—Same work as morning. Feed: ESLIN’S OLD STRAIN, DIRECT, LINE BRED BLACK, BROWN AND GINGER REDS EYES: BLACK OR DARK. STATION MEDIUM GREEN OR OLIVE LEGS Eggs, $3.00 per 15 Chicks, $1.00 each at two to three months old Six to eight months, $2.00 each Older fowls a matter of correspondence Richard Thrall Box 96 CULPEPPER, VA. ~ROUP CURE Bisdee’s Roup Specific Prevents the Spread of Diseases It is the best Tonic for Poultry ever discovered. Nothing else will freshen up a Stale bird so quickly. It 1s simple and easy to use. One box makes 40 gallons of medicated water. Itnever fails if directions are carefully followed. Price $1 a Box Sent postpaid on receipt of price W., H. BISDEE Pharmacist WATERLOO, N. Y. = RIN as The = 2 Te as. 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