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WORDSWORTH COLLECTION
MADE BY
CYNTHIA MORGAN ST.JOHN
ITHACA. N. Y.
THE GIFT OF
VICTOR EMANUEL
CLASS OF 1919

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TABLETS
ITINERANT.Wilson & Son, Printkrs, 57, Skinner-Street, London.tVTuteZefs
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15, APRIL 1036.
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SHERWOOD k C° PATERNOSTER R^ \ '• U /’> * '	’
AND HUDSON Sc NICHOLSON, KENDAL.—
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C7)lS'lP°) ' VTO
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
GEORGE, EARL OF EGREMONT,
BARON COCKERMOUTH, &C. &C.
THIS LITTLE VOLUME,
IS, WITH EVERY SENTIMENT OF RESPECT,
INSCRIBED,
BY HIS LORDSHIP’S MOST DEVOTED,
AND MOST OBEDIENT
HUMBLE SERVANT,
GEORGE TATTERSALL.

PREFACE.
The adding* another to the already number-
less “ Guides to the English Lakes,” will
undoubtedly at first sight be deemed an act of
temerity, or, at best, of but questionable expe-
diency. It is a path which has been so com-
pletely beaten by his predecessors, as to leave
but little hope of novelty to the pilgrim who
follows in their track. The descriptive genius
of the poet, the research of the antiquarian,
and the master-hand of the painter, have each
in turn been exercised to illustrate this fa-
voured region; and with such success, as
would seem to leave but little to be gleaned by
any subsequent tourist. Yet, many and various
as have been their labours, and exhausted as
every species of description and delineation
may appear,—behold! another cockle-shell
embarked upon the tide of public favour, her
every hope of prosperity chartered in novelty
—in novelty at once of design as of execution.
a 2VI
PREFACE.
Time must shew whether the novelty of de-
sign at which I have aimed—that of rendering
a Guide-book at once intelligible and useful
to those for whose especial edification it is in-
tended-—be attained or not; this, however,
cannot but be allowed to be a most desirable
novelty.
“ Without the pencil,” says Mr. West, a
clever and observant traveller, “ nothing is to
be described with precision ; and even then,
that pencil ought to be in the very hand of the
writer, ready to supply with outlines every
thing that his pen cannot express by words.”
True; but in my humble opinion, for the pur-
poses of description, with reference to the
pointing out of a scene to which the beholder
is a perfect stranger, all the powers of lan-
guage will fall short of a faithful effort of the
pencil. Such was the conviction arising from
my own experience as a stranger; and in the
results of that conviction will be found my
second novelty, of execution.
Here are my main stays ; here my chief
hopes of support. Fail these, I go the way of
all dismissed and superannuated Guides.
The method which I have endeavoured to
pursue in the following pages, is that of intro-PREFACE.
Vll
during the reader to those “ fair scenes,” of
which the drawings, by their references, must
then explain the component features. In fur-
therance of this object, the directions with
regard to the various routes and roads are
most scrupulously correct and concise; yet, at
the same time, more fully treated than in any
former work on the same subject. A Map has
also been added to the already numerous illus-
trations, drawn and corrected from actual ex-
perience, and comprising every latest altera-
tion in, or deviation from the roads.
The Illustrations, which form so important
a feature in this little work, are etched on
steel, by Mr. W. F. Topham, from original
drawings by the Author. Merit as drawings
they cannot claim ; but as sketches, they will
be found at once faithful and characteristic.
With these few remarks the author launches
his little bark, trusting to the forgiveness of an
indulgent reader for the errors of an inexpe-
rienced seamanship, and hoping for that kind
favour which it will ever be his highest ambi-
tion to deserve.
London, April 15, 1836.LIST OF THE PLATES
/
No.	Page
1.	Map of the Lakes to face the
title page.
2.	Vignette Title, Elterwater.
3.	Upper Reach, Windermere 25
4.	Lower Reach, Windermere 30
5.	Windermere, from Rayrigg
Bank....................... 31
6.	Coniston Water, from Water-
head...................... 35
7.	Upper Reach, Coniston....	35
8.	Little Langdale............. 39
9.	Blea Tarn .................. 41
10.	The Valley of the Stake ...	42
11.	Grasmere, from Louglirigg
Fell ..................... 43
12.	Rvdal Water................ 44
13.	Great Langdale............. 46
Views from the Summit of the Langdale
Pike:
14.	Looking North ..........'..	49
15.	Looking East............... 49
16.	Looking South ............. 50
17.	Looking West .............. 50
18.	Thirlmere, from Ray’s Gap 54
19.	Thirlmere, from the North... 55
20.	The Vale of St.John.....	56
21.	Derwent Water, and the
entrance to Borrowdale ...	60
Views from the Summit of Helvellyn
22. Looking North .......... 68
23. Looking East............ 68
No.	Page
24.	Looking South ............ 69
25.	Looking West.............. 69
26.	Borrowdale, from the road
near Rosthwaite......... 72
27.	Honister Crag ............ 73
28.	Buttermere Lake .......... 74
29.	Crummock Lake, from the
East..................... 74
30.	Newland’s Vale, from Ro-
binson Fall ............. 75
31.	Derwent Water and Bassen-
thwaite Lakes, from the
road to Watendlath . 77
32.	Stye Head Tarn............ 78
33.	Wastwater, Scawfell, and
Scawfell Pikes, from the
road to Calder Bridge ...	80
34.	Ennerdale Lake............ 83
35.	Loweswater, from the North-
West .................... 84
Views from the Summit of Skiddaw:
36.	Looking North ............ 90
37.	Looking East ............. 90
38.	Looking South ............ 91
39.	Looking West ............. 92
40.	Haweswater, from above
Thwaite Force........... 109
41.	Ullswater, from Pooley
Bridge .................. 114
42.	Second Reach, Ullswater,
from Place Fell......... 117
43.	Upper Reach, Ullswater ... 118CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
An Introduction, together with a few
servations .....................
Page
general Ob-
........... 1
CHAPTER II.
Lancaster to Kendal;—Lancaster;—Dunald Mill-
Hole ; Milnthorpe; — Leven’s Hall; — Kendal
Castle ;—Kendal ....................   11
CHAPTER III.
Kendal;—Kendal to Bowness ;—Bowness ;—Excur-
sion on Windermere ................... 21
CHAPTER IV.
Bowness to Ambleside ; — Ambleside ; — Stock-Gill
Force................................. 33
CHAPTER V.
Langdale Excursion; Skelwith Force ;—Little Lang-
dale;—Colwith Force; Blea Tarn;—Valley of
the Stake ; — Great Langdale ; — Millbeck ;—
Dungeon Gill; — High Close ; — Grasmere ;—
Rydal Water;—Ambleside.............. 38
CHAPTER VI.
Ascent of the Langdale Pikes ........... 45X
CONTENTS.
Page
Directions................................  47
Reference to the Plates.................... 49
CHAPTER VII.
Ambleside to Keswick ; — Rydal; — Grassmere ; —
Dunmail Raise ;—Thirlmere ;—Vale of St. John ;
— Keswick; — Excursion on Derwentwater;—
Druidical Temple_, Castlerigg ..... 5j
CHAPTER VIII.
Ascent of Helvellyn ....................... 64
Directions...............................   66
Reference to the Plates ................... 68
CHAPTER IX.
Keswick to Buttermere; — Borrowdale ; — Bowdar
Stone ;—Honister Crag;—Buttermere ;—Crum-
mock Lake ; — Scale Force ; — Keskadale ; —
Newlands .................................. 70
CHAPTER X.
Excursion to Calder Bridge and Return.—Two Days’ journey.
First Day. Borrowdale;—Seathwaite;—Stye Head ;
—Tarn ; — Wasdale Head ; — Wastwater ; —
Strands ; —Gosforth ;—Calder Bridge ;—Calder
Abbey.
Second Day. Ennerdale ; — Lamplugh ; — Lowes-
water;—Scale-Hill Inn ; —Whinlatter ; — Kes-
wick ....................................... 76CONTENTS.
XI
CHAPTER XI.
• . PagC
Drive round Bassenth waite Water ;—Bassenthwaite ;
—Ousebridge ;—Peel Wyke ;—Keswick....... 83*
CHAPTER XII.
Ascent of Skiddaw........................... 86*
Reference to the Plates .................... 90
CHAPTER XIII.
Kesw ick to Penrith ;—Penrith Monuments of Anti-
quity ............................. 93
CHAPTER XIV.
Penrith to Lowther Castle, and Haweswater ;—Anti-
quities^ Arthur’s Round Table;—Mayburgh ;—
Brougham Hall; — Lowther Castle ; — Hawes-
water ;—Mardale Green ............ 104
CHAPTER XV.
Penrith to Patterdale ;—Pooley Bridge ;—Ullswater;
— Dunmallet;—Sail up the Lake ;—Gowbarrow
Parks ; —Airey Force ; — Glencoin ; —Upper
Reach of the Lake ;—Patterdale Hall;—Patter-
dale ............................. 112
CHAPTER XVI.
Patterdale to Ulverston ; — Brotherswater ; — Kirk-
stone ;—Amhleside ; — Coniston Waterhead; —
Excursion on Coniston Water Ulverston .... 120XJ1
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XVII.
Page
Ulverston ;—Furness Abbey ;—Conishead Priory ;
—Ulverston, over Sands, to Lancaster ;—Con-
clusion ............................. 123
AN ITINERARY
Of the several Roads, Towns, Villages, and other
Objects worthy of Notice, not included in the
preceding Chapters ........................... 127
Lancaster to Kendal, by Kirkby Lonsdale .... ] 29
Lancaster to Kendal, by Burton ............. 132
Lancaster to Ulverston, over Sands ......... 133
Ulverston to Bowness, by Newby Bridge....... 135
Ulverston to Ambleside, by Coniston Waterhead. . 137
Kendal to Haweswater, by Shap	.......... 138
Kendal to Ambleside.......................... 139
Ambleside to Ullswater....................... 141
Ambleside to Eskdale and Wasdale............. 142
Whitehaven to Cockermouth and	Scalehill ..... 144
Whitehaven to Keswick ...................... J 45
Workington to Keswick ....................... 148
Keswick to Pooley Bridge .................... 149
Keswick to Patterdale ....................... 150
Carlisle to Penrith.......................... 151
Penrith to Kendal ........................... I54
Haweswater to Kendal, by Long	Sleddale ..... 155Lortebm-. Puf>'UsheJ, tySfurH>oo<i8cCo, &3Pa£emosterPi.ow. ApiiLlS .iSoP.
J'.NePierdi/tLithm/Z3JCtftpWiZtiajn Si. ffescSir-and-.OF
AN ITINERANT,
fyc. fyc.
CHAPTER I.
AN INTRODUCTION, TOGETHER WITH A FEW
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
On the 15th day of July, 1835, fate so ordained that
I should run through the pages of my memorandum-
book. One dark, dingy, dog’s eared leaf, soon
attracted my particular attention; its dim and sullied
surface bore the record of a long-promised but inde-
finitely delayed visit to a friend inWestmoreland—the
region of lakes and asthma, of mountains and linsey-
woolsey. This page attracted my especial attention ;
1 had six weeks that 1 could call my own, and here
was a delightful trip. My mind was soon made up—
so was my portmanteau ; and on the following morn-
ing I set forth on my road to the Northern Lakes.
The sun was sinking behind the lofty fell as I ap-
proached the place of my destination: it was a
beautiful spot; the house, delightfully situated at a
short drive from Windermere, embosomed in the
midst of wide-spreading woods, and built in the true
old Westmoreland style, with round chimneys, an
ivy-grown porch, full of spiders, and windows so
Bo
AN ARRIVAL.
well and truly fitted for a free circulation of air, that
the tassel of the blind, suspended between the two
casements, was a most apt illustration of the long-
discussed theory of perpetual motion. Immediately
in front of the house rose a bold and lofty scarr ; to
the south were spread the clear blue waters of More-
cambe Bay, whilst to the northward the bare and
rugged sides----But hold! whilst I am describing all
this the guard blows his horn ; the people bob their
heads out of the window, then bob them in again, and
finally reappear at the kitchen door ; my luggage is
set down; coachmen and guard remembered; “all
right!” and off they go again. Then comes the usual
routine : salutations—inquiries—kind wishes—hopes
of long visit — narrative of expectation deferred—
comments on the weather—raptures on the beauty of
the surrounding country—talking over of old friends
and by-gone days—poached eggs, and—bed.
There are several high-roads to the Lakes : from
the north, tourists come by Whitehaven, or Penrith,
to Keswick; from the south there are several ap-
proaches : some travellers cross the sands from
Lancaster to Ulverston, whence they proceed by
Newby Bridge to Bowness ; some go from Lancaster
to Kendal, by Kirkby Lonsdale; others reach the
same point by Milnthorpe; there is a third road
leading through Burton ; and lastly some few proceed
from Lancaster by Milnthorpe to Bowness, turning
off from the Kendal road to the left, at Levens
Bridge.MODES OF TRAVELLING.
3
But although there are so many ways of arriving'
at the Lakes, there are but two ways of really seeing
them—on foot or on horseback; and the latter
method is far preferable to the former; for who can
properly appreciate the beauties of a view which he
is fatigued in attaining ? There are but few carriage
roads, and these again only lead to the points most
visited by tourists : in fact, the carriage traveller loses
most of the beauties of the Lake scenery j in support
of which assertion I need ouly mention the excursions
to Buttermere by Honister Crag, and to Calder
Bridge by Stye Head: carriages may be used as
a means of conveyance from station to station, (as,
for instance, from Ambleside to Keswick,) but for
shorter excursions, to those who can ride on horse-
back, or walk, either of these methods will be found
preferable to a carriage
Sketch-books, note-books, sandwiches, and black-
lead pencils, form the general baggage of the Lake
tourist; but in addition to these long-established in-
dispensables, every person, or at least one person in
every party, should possess a small pocket compass,
by the aid of which he will be enabled the more
readily to discover the different points of view, as
well as to recognise with greater facility and cer-
* With respect to the seasons which are best adapted for a tour to
the Lakes, they are in this mountainous country so variable that
no definite opinion can be offered on this subject; but the finest
months are undoubtedly July, August, and October, whilst Septem-
ber is generally wet and chill—in fact, a second April.4
LAKES—TARNS.
tainty the various lakes and mountains which are
generally pointed out by reference on the cardinal
points.
I shall now proceed to enumerate the chief of those
objects of interest which have rendered this quarter
so favourable a resort of the “ summer-folk” (as the
tourists are provincially termed,) and shall then con-
clude this chapter by a detail of the route, which, in
the following pages, it is my intention to pursue.
The English Lakes are contained in the counties of
Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland, and
are sixteen in number; viz., Windermere, the largest,
Ullswater, R.ydal Water, Brothers Water, Hawes
Water, Coniston Water, Derwent Water, Thirlmere,
Leathes or Wythburn Water, Grasmere, Esthwaite,
Buttermere, Bassentkwaite, Crummock Water,
Loweswater, Was water, and Ennerdale.
The principal tarns * are thirty-two in number,
viz. Elterwater, Loughrigg, Little Langdale, Blea,
Stickle, Codale, and Easdale tarns, belonging to
Windermere; Hayswater, Angle, Grisedale, Red
and Keppel Cove tarns, in the vicinity of Ullswater;
Smallwater and Bleawater tarns, and Beacon tarn,
belonging to Coniston ; Harrop tarn, near Thirl-
mere; Watendlath, Angle, Sprinkling, and Stye-
head tarns, tributary to Derwent Water ; Scales tarn,
near Saddleback ; Kentmere tarn, between Eskdale
and Wasdale, Bleabury or Burtness tarn, near But-
* Tam, a small lake.CASCADES.
5
termere, and Floutern tarn, between Buttermere
and Ennerdale: besides these, there are several
smaller, but none worthy of any particular attention*.
The principal cascades f, or, as they are provin-
cially termed, Forces, are twelve in number, viz.
Barrow Fall, near Keswick, Lowdore Cataract, on
Derwent Water, Scale Force, near Buttermere,
White Water Dash, near Skiddaw, Airey Force, on
UIIswater, Rydal Waterfalls, Dungeon Gill, on the
Langdale Pikes, Stockgill Force, near Ambleside,
Birker Force, near Eskdale, and the Forces of Skel-
with, Colwith, and Dalgarth ; besides these, there are
innumerable minor Falls, especially in a wet season,
when the tourist has also the advantage of feeling
them. The chief rivers are the Rothay and the Bra-
thay, which unite about half a mile before they flow
into Windermere, rising, the first in Grasmere, and
the latter amongst the Langdale mountains. The
Kent, which rises in Kentmere, one of the many
vallies of High Street, and flowing past Kendal,
falls into the sea at Milnthorpe. The Esk, rising on
* Devock Water, though called a lake, is in fact a large tarn ;
it is too remote to be often visited, but is famous for its fine trout
and its abundant water-fowl.
t The several heights of the principal of these are as follows :—
Feet.
Lowdore .................360
Scale Force ............ 152
Colwith Force, several
falls................ 148
Barrow, two falls...... 122
Feet.
Airey Force .......... 80
Stock Gill ........... 70
Dungeon Gill.......... 60
Skelwith Force.........286
RIVERS.
the east of Scawfell, gives its name to the valley of
Eskdale, and falls into the sea at Ravenglass, where
it is also joined by the Irt from Wasdale, and the
Mite from Miterdale. The Duddon rises on the
south of Bowfell, and after serving as the boundary
between the counties of Cumberland and Lancashire,
falls into the sea, above the island of Walney. The
many streams of Patterdale and Helvellyn unite in
XJllswater, from whence they issue under the name
of the Earnout, which being joined about a mile
from Penrith b}r the river Lowther, from Hawes
Water, Swindale, and Wetsleddale, they unite their
common stream to that of the Eden, and finally flow
into the Solway Frith, a little below Carlisle. The
brooks form Buttermere, Crummock, and Lowes-
water Lakes, form the river Cocker, which runs into
the sea at Cockermouth. The Derwent rises in Bor-
rowdale, from whence, after serving as the principal
feeder of the Lakes of Derwent Water and Bas-
senthwaite, it falls into the sea at Workington. The
river issuing from Thirlmere, commonly called St.
John’s Beck, from the valley through which it flows,
but the original name of which was the Bure, joins
the Glenderamakin, which flows from Mungrisdale
by Tbrelkeld : their united streams receive the name
of the Greta, which, flowing past Keswick, falls into
the Derwent, soon after its issuing from Derwent
Water. The Lune rises in Kentmere, whence
flowing by Kirkby Lonsdale, where it is crossed
by a fine old bridge, it falls into the sea about sevenMOUNTAINS.
7
miles below Lancaster. The Ellen takes its rise in
the mountains to the north of Skiddaw, and, after
passing Uldale, Ireby, and Ellenborough, flows into
the sea at Maryport. The Lisa flows from the north
side of the Gable into Ennerdale lake, on issuing
from which it receives the name of the Ehen, till it
falls into the sea between Ravenglass and St. Bees,
near to the place where the Calder, which takes its
rise in Copeland Forest, also terminates its course.
The principal mountains, or fells, are as follows :—
No. of feet
Name and County.	above the
level of the sea.
Scawfell Pike, Cumberland.................. 3160
Scawfell,	do. ..................... 3100
Helvellyn,	do. ....................  3070
Skiddaw,	do. ...................   3022
Fairfield,	do.	  2925
Great Gavel,	do.	  2925
Cross Fell,	do.	  2901
The Pillar,	do.	  2893
Bowfell,	do. ....................- 2910
Saddleback,	do....................... 2787
Grasmoor,	do. ..................... 2756
High Street, Westmoreland ................. 2700
Grisedale Pike, Cumberland ................ 2580
Coniston Old Man, Lancashire .............. 2577
Harrison Stickle, Langdale Pikes........... 2400
*Ingleborough, Yorkshire................... 2361
* Ingleborough, which forms so conspicuous an object in so many
points of view, is a very remarkable mountain, both as regards its
height and the immense base on which it stands: this vast range
is situated in the West Riding of Yorkshire, and is nearly twenty8
ROUTE.
Carrock Fell, Cumberland ................ 2110
Causey Pike,	do.	  2030
Black Combe,	do. .................... 1919
Lord’s Seat,	do.	    1728
Wansfell, Westmoreland................... 1590
Cat-bells, Cumberland ................... 1448
Latrigg, do.	  1160
Loughrigg Fell, Westmoreland............. 1090
Scilly Bank, Cumberland .................. 500
St. Bees Head, da. ....................... 222
I shall now proceed to detail the route which, in
the ensuing tour, I propose to follow ; and if the
map be consulted, it will be found to embrace almost
every object of interest in the district of the Lakes.
From Lancaster, our first day will bring us by
Milnthorpe and Levens Hall to Kendal, from whence
we shall proceed to Bowness, where we must stop to
make an excursion on Windermere: from Bowness
we must on to Ambleside, where our head-quarters
will be established for a short time, in order that we
may accomplish the following trips ; viz.—
1.	The Langdale excursion : from Ambleside, by
Skelwith Bridge, Little Langdale, and Colwith, to
Blea Tarn; returning by Great Langdale, Millbeck,
and High Close.
2.	The ascent of the Langdale Pikes.
miles in circumference : it contains some good slate, and the land
round its foot is fine pasture, interspersed with many acres of
limestone rocks. Its name has been immortalized in the following
couplet:—
“ Ingleborougli, Pendlehill, and Penigent,
The highest hills between Scotland and Trent.”ROUTE.
9
From Ambleside we must move forward to Kes-
wick, ascending Helvellyn, (if agreeable,) on the
way.
From Keswick more excursions must be made
than from any other point—these are;—
• 1. Tour of Derwent Water—Visit to the Druid
Stones on Castlerigg.
2.	* The excursion through Borrowdale, by Ho-
nister Crag to Buttermere, and Crummock Water;
returning to Keswick by the Vallies of Keskadale
and Newlands.
3.	* An excursion of two days from Keswick to
Calder Bridge and back. The first day, from Kes-
wick, by Watendlath, Borrowdale, Stye Head,
Wasdale, the Strands, and Gosforth, to Calder
Bridge.
The second day, from Calder Bridge, by Lamplugh,
Ennerdale, Loweswater, Scale Hill, and Whinlatter,
to Keswick.
4.	A drive round Bassenthwaite Water.
5.	The ascent of Skiddaw.
Having thus seen all the environs of the Vale of
Keswick, we shall now turn eastward from Keswick
to Penrith; whence we must visit Haweswater,
and Lowther Castle, together with the many monu-
ments of antiquity in which the immediate neighbour-
hood abounds.
* These two excursions can be accomplished only by means of
ponies, or by walking.
B 210
ROUTE,,
From Penrith we must now return southward to
Pooley Bridge, whence we must sail down Ullswater
to Patterdale.
From Patterdale our route will lead us by Am-
bleside and Collision to Ulversion ; whence, having
visited the noble ruins of Furness Abbey, and the
delightful grounds of Conishead Priory, we shall
arrive at the point from which we originally set out
—Lancaster,n
CHAPTER II.
LANCASTER TO KENDAL—LANCASTER—DUNALD
MILL-HOLE— M1LNTHORPE — LEVENS HALL—
KENDAL CASTLE—KENDAL.
Miles.	Miles.	Mil	5S*	Miles.
Slyne	.		. .. 2|	1 2	Beetliom			m
I5 Bolton-le-Sands .	.... 4	1*	Milnthorpe			 13f
2 Carnforth		.... 6	n	Heversham		
2 Separation of the Roads 8		H	Levens 			 16£
4 Hale		.... 12	5	Kendal 			 21*
The first view of Lancaster, on approaching it from
the south, is rendered doubly interesting by its ab-
rupt and sudden development; though this, indeed,
is so long delayed, that the eye becomes weary of
tracing the word Lancaster upon the mile-stones, till,
on ascending a hill, about half a mile from the town,
the long-desired object is beheld at last; and then
the traveller is amply repaid for all the protracted
and tormenting tantalization which he has under-
gone. The neat but closely-built town ; the winding
river, with its elegant bridge; the ancient castle,
looking down from its proud eminence, with an air
of condescending protection, to the humbler build-
ings which nestle round it; the far-spreading bay of12
LANCASTER.
Morecambe, and the Lake mountains in the blue
distance beyond, combine to render this one of the
most pleasing city-views (if I may be allowed the
expression) in the British dominions.
The chief object of interest to the tourist at Lan
caster is the Castle*; the well-chosen and command-
ing situation of which, cannot fail to attract the
attention and admiration of every beholder. The
advantages of its position, indeed, were early appre-
ciated, the site having been occupied by Agricola,
who, in his second campaign, established here the
station of Longovicum (A.d. 79), in order to protect
the passage of his troops across the Morecambe Bay
into Lower Furness.
The present building is generally ascribed to the
reign of Edward the Third ; but Mr. West refers it
to a more ancient date. “ There are,” he says,
“ three distinct styles of architecture apparent in the
present castle, viz. the round towers, the square
towers, and the grand gateway or entrance.” It has,
however, been so often repaired, that but a small
part, even of the time of the third Edward, remains
to the present day : the last alterations and additions
were made in 1778, under the direction of Mr. Har-
rison, who has executed his task with considerable
taste and judgment.
The Church is a fine gothic structure, occupying
an eminence a little below the Castle, from which it
* At present used as the County prison.BO LTON-ON-TH E-SANDS.
13
is separated only by the moat, and of which it ap-
pears, when seen from a distance, to form a part.
Leaving Lancaster*, and crossing the Lune by an
elegant bridge of five arches, from the centre of
which is a fine view of the Castle on the left, and the
aqueduct of the Lancaster Canal on the right, a ride
of four miles leads to the small village of Bolton-on-
the-Sands : from this point, and indeed for a consi-
derable distance beyond, there is a beautiful view of
the Bay of Morecambe: in the vale, and on the sea-
coast, are scattered the neat white houses which
mark the road from Lancaster to Ulverston ; whilst
beyond the bay are seen the towering heights of Co-
niston Fells, amongst which the Coniston Old Man
is the most conspicuous, and may be easily recog-
nised by the pile of stones on its summit: to the
right of Coniston Fells are the other Lake moun-
tains ; and still farther to the right of these, the view
is shut in by the bare and bleak Shap Fells. Two
miles beyond Bolton is Carnforth : here is a respect-
able inn, where the party may leave their carriage,
and proceed on foot to visit Dunald Mill-hole.
Dunald Mill-hole is a remarkable cavern, distant
about two miles to the right of Carnforth ; a fine
stream of water falls by several small Cascades into
it: and after running for a considerable distance in
* Lancaster was first incorporated by King John, and the charter
renewed and confirmed, with increased privileges, by Charles the
Second : it is governed by a mayor and aldermen, and returns two
members to Parliament.14
DUNALD-MILL-HOLE.
the dark depths of the earth, issues again at Carn-
forth : the roof and sides of this subterraneous chan-
nel are covered with innumerable spars and stalac-
tites, of every imaginable shape and form, which,
glittering in the light of the taper, unite with the
pleasing sound of the waters dashing down the in-
numerable cascades, and rushing through its rocky
bed, to form a very pleasing tout ensemble in this
miniature grotto*.
Returning to Carnforth, and proceeding towards
Burton, at the sixth mile-stone on the left, is the
small village of Wharton. This little hamlet has a
very peculiar appearance: situated at the foot of a
bare and stony crag, and itself built of the same
material, it appears almost to form part of the rock.
This illusion, however, though curious, is far from
pleasing, as it gives a cold and uncomfortable look
to the whole village. A. litttle beyond Wharton, and
likewise on the left of the road, is Yealands, a neat
and well-built village, inhabited chiefly by members
of the Society of Friends ; and, in its sheltered situ-
ation, entirely surrounded by plantations, this little
hamlet is altogether as agreeable in appearance as
its neighbour Wharton is comfortless.
A little beyond Yealands, and eight miles from
* Dimald Mill-hole may also be reached by parties travelling
from the North, leaving the Lancaster road about four miles from
Burton, at the guide-post to Kellet: when in the village, inquire
for the Mill, which is then about two miles distant.YEA LANDS—BEETHOM,
15
Lancaster, is the separation of the roads ; that on the
right leading to Burton, the other passing through
Milnthorpe : soon after this division of the roads, a
bleak, bluff mountain, called Farlton Knot, appears
on the right: this mountain is said to bear a great
resemblance to the rock at Gibraltar, and on its
summit an obelisk, sacred to liberty, was erected in
the year 1788, in commemoration of the Revolution
of 1688.
On the left of the road, in descending the hill to-
wards the little village of Beethom, is Beethom Hall,
once a mansion of considerable pretensions, as may
be seen by the round turrets which are still remain-
ing, but at present an humble farm-house.
Crossing the Bela, over a light and elegant stone
bridge, the road now skirts Hallam-Tower Park, the
seat of G. Wilson, Escj. following the windings of
the Bela for a mile and a half, until it enters the
little village of Milnthorpe.
Milnthorpe, the only sea-port town of Westmore-
land, is situated on the estuaries of the rivers Kent
and Bela, and was once a place of rather consider-
able trade; but, alas, for Milnthorpe ! the stream of
human affairs has, like its own twin streams, its tides
and turns, its ebbs and flowings; its commerce, like
the changing sands of Morecambe, shifted, and left
their pristine channel : Liverpool swallowed up the
trade of all the adjacent country, and spared not
Milnthorpe: Milnthorpe fell. The greatest cities of
antiquity have perished, and Milnlhorpe’s glory is16
MILN THORPE.
gone by ; but not so utterly : the pillars of Pacstum
stand
“ Between the mountains and the sea,
Awful memorials ! of whom we know not.”
But every body knows that the tower on the hill
above Milnthorpe is a memorial of the triumph of
Reform. The hanging gardens of the mighty Ba-
bylon are vanished, and their site unknown ; but
cabbages still flourish in the classic lands of Miln-
thorpe. The ships of Sardis are sunk, all! in the
depth of ages ! but Milnthorpe still glories in two
coal brigs and a cockboat.
Leaving Milnthorpe, the road leads up a steep
hill, from whence is a pretty view of Dallam-Tower
Park and House : on descending the hill again, stop,
when about half way down, for five minutes; in
order to scan the beautiful panorama which spreads
itself before you.
At the foot of the hill, directly in front, is the
small village of Heversham, with its ancient Church
embosomed in trees ; above these appear Sizergh
Fell and Underbarrow Scarr, to the left of which are
the Lake mountains, completing the picture in the
front or foreground. Turning towards the left, the
first object which strikes the eye is the lofty precipice
of Whitbarrow Scarr*", at the foot of which lies the
* A Srarr is a bare and rugged face of rock, sinking perpendi-
cularly to the plain.LEVENS HALL.
17
road to Ulverstone, whilst the craggy tops of the
Langdale Pikes appear towering above it. To the
left of this is Cartmel Fell ; and still farther to the
left, the range of the Foulsha—a promontory which
divides the rivers Kent and Leven ; whilst the whole
view is terminated by an extensive bird’s-eye view
of the bay of Morecambe ; the Milnthorpe sands,
with the neat lodging-houses scattered on the banks ;
the small islands of Pilecas and Foulney ; and the
distant hills of Low Furness, and the Island of
Walney.
Leaving this beatiful country by a cool and well-
shaded road, leading through the little villages of
Heversham and Leasgill, another mile will bring the
tourist to the gate of the ancient and singular mansion
of Levens Hall.
Levens Hall, the seat of the Honourable Fulke
Greville Howard, is more remarkable from its singu-
larity than for intrinsic beauty either of situation or
architecture; whilst the interior is indebted for its
attractions to the carved work, with which the whole
house is richly ornamented, rather than to any excel-
lence of style in the building itself; for, like all other
old houses, it is inconvenient and dark, with one very
wide staircase, and a great many very narrow, innu-
merable passages, and enormous fire-places ; but the
oaken carvings with which it abounds are most ela-
borate and elegant.
In the entrance-hall, which is decorated with
Breastplates, Glaives, Matchlocks, Spears, and other18
THE GARDEN.
emblems of war, are three beautifully-worked Scrip-
tural pieces, representing the Annunciation, the Wise
Men’s Offerings, and the Adoration of the Shepherds.
The Chimney-front in the North Dining-room,
(likewise of oak) represents the Five Senses, the
Four Seasons, and the Four Elements, supported by
Sampson and Hercules, and bearing the following
characteristic inscription :—
“ Thus the five sences stand portraited here;
The elements foure ; and seasons of the yeare ;
Sampson supports the one side, in a rage,
The other, Hercules, in like equipage.”
The Chapel Bed-room is entirely fitted up with a
beautifully carved wainscotting, and the doors are
curiously inlaid ; the wainscotting of the room bears
the date 1586. In the chapel is a beautiful oak
carving, representing Christ healing the sick. Some
of the rooms are fitted up with Gobelin tapestry, one
piece of which, representing Africa, is beautifully
wrought, and others are lined with painted leather in
a good state of preservation, but apparently of a very
remote date.
We now come to the Garden, which is the only
specimen of its kind in England : this is seven acres
in extent, and was originally planned by the gar-
dener of James the Second : it is quite in the style
of Louis the Fourteenth, and is, in fact, very similar
to the gardens of Versailles. But the chief “ lions”
of Levens Garden are its curiously-cut trees : these
consist of holly, box, and beech, which are trainedTHE PARK.
19
and cut into every shape which fancy could suggest
or ingenuity devise. Royalty bedecks these factious
flower-beds, for at the corner of one stands the King,
“ with his crown upon his head,” and opposite to him
is the Queen, with her arms a-kimbo ; then there are
birds, beasts, and fishes ; cups, jugs, vases, and a
hundred things beside*.
Having viewed the house and gardens, the Park
well deserves a visit. The river Kent winds through
it, shut in by lofty banks, bold, romantic, and
beautifully wooded. On each side of the river is a
noble avenue of venerable oaks, and the whole is
well stocked with fallow-deer. This park forms one
of the prettiest arrangements of wood, rocks, and
water, imaginable.
Crossing Levens Bridge, the read to Kendal leads
straight up the opposite hill, that on the left branching
* On each recurring twelfth of May, these gardens are the scene
of mirth and festivity: on that day the Mayor and Corporation of
Kendal go in procession to proclaim the Milntliorpe Fair, the rents
of which belong to the House of Levens. The ceremony of the pro-
clamation, and a two-o’clock-dinner, having been gone through,
the “Lord of Levens,” or his representative, invites the Mayor
and his brother burgesses to view the “sports of Levens:” this
invitation generally includes every other person who may be in-
clined to avail himself of it; and they all adjourn pele-mele to Levens
Garden. Here the “ sports” begin ; trays of bread and butter, and
radishes, and cans of good strong ale and morocco (a species of ale,
or porter, or both, peculiar to Levens,) respectively appear on the
green, and disappear down the throats of the expectant visitors ;
then some run races, some play bowls, some sing, some try to walk
across the green blindfolded; mirth and merriment abound ; and
the evening is wound up between old English sports and morocco.20
KENDAL.
off to Ulverston, Bowness, and Ambleside. At the
top of the hill, to the left, is Heaves Lodge, the seat
of James Gandy, Esq.; and to the right, the little vil-
lage of Sedgwick, and Sedgwick House, the seat of
John Wakefield, Esq.
A ride of two miles brings the traveller to Sizergh
Hall, a fine old edifice to the left of the road, the
ancient family-seat of the Stricklands. This relic of
the olden times dates farther back even than Levens,
and also contains some fine old oaken carvings.
About a mile from Sizergh, Kendal Castle appears
in sight, crowning an eminence to the right of the
road. This castle has a very striking, though not
equally picturesque appearance when approached
from the South, bearing an exact resemblance to a
stage-coach : this, however, is not perceptible on
approaching Kendal by the Burton road.
Soon after passing through the Turnpike, Helm
Lodge, the seat of W. Crewdson, Esq. is seen on the
right, and a ride of another mile and a half brings
the traveller to Kendal.21
CHAPTER III.
KENDAL—KENDAL TO BOWNESS—BOWNESS—
EXCURSION ON WINDERMERE.
Kendal to Bowness, 9 miles.
Kendal*, the largest and most flourishing town of
Westmoreland, is situated in a delightful valley on
the banks of the river Kent, from which it originally
derived its name, Kirkby Kendale. On the opposite
side of the river is the Castle Hill, on which stands the
ruins of the ancient Castle: this once powerful strong-
hold, which yielded to the destructive ambition of
Cromwefl, belonged to the family of Catherine Parr,
the last queen of Henry VIII.: the sole remains are
the shells of three round towers and a keep, toge-
ther with traces of a moat; but it is well worthy of
a visit, on account of its lofty and commanding
situation.
* Kendal, formerly Kent-dale or Candale, anciently Concan-
gium.22
KENDAL.
Kendal is a neat clean town, containing about
11,400 inhabitants, and consists of one principal
street, a mile in length, which runs parallel to the
river, and from which several smaller streets branch
out at right angles : it has two neat Bridges, and two
good Inns, the King’s Arms, and the Commercial
Inn; the chief manufactories are those of coarse
woollen cloths, known by the name of Kendal cot-
tons, for which it was famous as early as the four-
teenth century ; and of knit worsted stockings : there
are also several considerable tanneries. The chief
buildings are, the White Hall, at the corner of New
or Lowther Street, the Westmoreland Bank, nearly
opposite to the White Hall, and a gothic building,
near Abbot-Hall Gates*, the residence of a limited
number of spinsters. The barony of Kendal was
given by William the Conqueror to Ivo de Taille-
bois, in which gift the inhabitants of the town were
also included as villain (or serf) tenants ; but they
were afterwards emancipated, and their freedom
confirmed to them by Charter, by one of his succes-
sors. A corporation of Aldermen and Burgesses was
established by Queen Elizabeth. James I. entrusted
it to a Mayor, twelve Aldermen, and twenty Bur-
gesses ; and by the late Reform Bill the borough
* Abbot Hall, the residence of Edward Wilson, Esq. is situated
near the church, and was in the days of monasteries the residence of
the Abbot of St. Mary’s, York.THE CHURCH.
23
was allowed the privilege of sending one member to
parliament.
The Church is a fine and spacious Gothic struc-
ture, with a square tower, double aisles, and at the
eastern end four chapels or choirs; one belonging to
the Church, and the others to the three ancient fami-
lies of the Parrs, the Stricklands, and the Belling-
hams. The family of the Bellinghams, now extinct,
resided at Helsington, a farm distant about a mile
from Kendal, on the Milnthorpe road, where a fine
old chimney still bears testimony to the merry doings
of the English hospitality in by-gone days: in the
chancel is the following curious epitaph, which was
written for himself by the Rev. Ralph Tyrer, Vicar
of Kendal, who died A. D. 1627 :—
“ London bredd me ; Westminster fedd me ;
Cambridge spedd me ; my sister wedd me ;
Study taught me ; living sought me ;
Learning brought me ; Kendal caught me ;
Labour pressed me ; sickness distressed me ;
Death oppressed me ; the grave possessed me ;
God first gave me ; Christ did save me ;
Earth did crave me; and heaven would have me.”
The road from Kendal to Bowness, a distance of
nine miles, passes over a barren, wild, and desolate
tract of land, offering little or no subject for remark.
At first, it runs parallel to the Shap Fells, having a
pretty view of tlie village and church of Claybarrow,
in tbe valley, and in the distance, of the lofty moun-
tains of Hill-bell and High Street. About half way24
LAKE MOUNTAINS.
to Bowness, likewise, there is a fine view of the
Lake mountains : in front is seen the lofty Coniston
Old Man, which may be recognised by the pile of
stones on its summit; to the right of the Old Man
is Wetherlam ; thenWrynose; and to the north of
Wrynose, the rocky summits of Bowfell and the
Langdale Pikes, which stand at the bead of Great
Langdale. The two remarkable peaks, (the one
pointed, and the other terminating in a blunt knob),
to the right of Bowfell, are the Langdale Pikes : in
the distance beyond which, the points of Scafell
Pike, the highest mountain in England, are just
perceptible. To the north of the Langdale Pikes is
Loughrigg Fell, a comparatively low hill; then Fair-
field, Scandale, and Wansfell; and lastly, Hill-bell
(the conical mountain), and High Street, on the
latter of which the river Kent takes its rise.
The road still continues hilly, but becomes gradu-
ally more pleasing and picturesque, till from the
brow of a hill about a mile and a half from Bow-
ness, the traveller first looks down upon the long-
expected object of his hopes and wishes,—Win
dermere. The first view of Windermere from the
road, is more calculated to create disappointment
than to fulfil the many wondrous workings of ima-
gination—coming upon the Lake, at its narrowest
part, where the Island of Bell Isle and the woodv
promontories which run into the Lake, on either
side, tend to diminish it to the appearance of a con-
siderable river.
UFPiEm. reach , wiideimeie „BOWNESS.
25
At a first glance, the Northern or upper extremity
of the Lake is alone visible; but, as you advance,
the Southern Reach also unfolds itself to the view,
till, near Bowness, the entire Lake is spread before
you. It is a beautiful scene, that first and opening
view of Windermere : the blue water, broken by the
many and well-wooded islands, reflecting the white
sails of the pleasure-boats as they skim over its
smooth and glassy surface—the overhanging moun-
tains, with their ever-varying tints of light and
shade—the elegant villas which crowd the banks—all
combine to sustain the proud title of the “ Queen of
the Northern Lakes.”
BOWNESS.
Bowness* is a neat little village, delightfully
situated on a small bay in the eastern shore, and
towards the centre of Windermere.
Bowness Bay is the chief port on the Lake, and the
village is much frequented by visitors during the
period of the Ferry House and Low-wood Regattas :
it has two excellent inns, the White Lion and the
Crown, and several neat lodging - houses. The
Church contains some fine ancient painted windows,
which were brought hither from Furness Abbey, and
are well worthy a glance. The chief support of the
* Ness, or Nab, signifies a point or promontory.
C26
WINDERMERE.
inhabitants of this village is fishing for the char and
trout; the season for which, however, does not
commence before the month of November, and in
the summer season the fishermen are metamorphosed
into guides and boatmen, the worthy expounders of
the beauties of their native Lake.
Windermere, or as it is sometimes (more pro-
perly) termed, Winandermere*, is the largest of the
English Lakes, being eleven miles in length, and
three-fifths of a mile in breadth : its greatest depth
(opposite to Ecclerigg Cragg) is 222 feet, and the
entire surface of this Lake comprises 4534 acres of
water, together with 40 acres of land contained in
the Islands.
This Lake is divided into two Reaches, or points
of view, by the Island of Belle Isle: the northern or
upper Reach is four miles in length, and one in
breadth; the lower, or southern, seven miles in
length, but considerably narrower, and diminishing
in width towards the southern extremity. These two
Reaches are interspersed with several beautifully-
wooded Islands, or Holms, in all fourteen in num-
ber, which are clustered near the middle of the
Lake, forming a group around Belle Isle, the
largest; and are beautifully described by Professor
Wilson, as
Those sister Isles that sleep
Together, like a happy family
Of beauty and of love.”
* The word mere signifies a lake, or water.WINDERMERE.
27
Six of these Islands are in the Upper Reach ; viz.
Lady Holm*, Hen Holm, Crow Holm, Thomson
Holm, and Rough Holm, and the two small Islands
called Lillies of the Valley. In the southern divi-
sion of the Lake are Hawes Holm, Ling Holm,
Grass Holm, Silver Holm, Blake Holm, and Berk-
shire Island.
Windermere abounds in pike, trout, and char,
(the two latter of which are here potted, and sent to
all parts of England,) and the feeders, or streams
which supply the Lake, afford excellent sport to the
angler; the principal of these are the Rothay and
the Brathay, which rising, the former in Grasmere,
and the latter in Langdale, unite their streams about
half a mile before they flow into the Lake, at its
northern extremity. The trout and char proceed up
these rivers in the proper season, to deposit their
spawn, when, on their arrival at their separation, the
trout invariably proceed up the Rothay, whilst the
char makes choice of the Brathay. Another chief
feeder of this Lake is the Troutbeck, which also
abounds in fish.
The roads in the immediate neighbourhood of
Windermere are very good, though hilly; and near
the centre of the Lake is a ferry, which leads on the
one side to Bowness, Kendal, aud Milnthorpe, and
on the other, to Hawkshead and Coniston.
* The word Holm signifies an island.28
WINDERMERE.
Windermere can be seen to advantage only from
its own surface, or the various stations immediately
environing it: an excursion on the Lake is therefore
indispensable, for the tourist duly to appreciate its
beauties. The following will be found to be the best
order of stations for viewing the Lake :—Embarking
at Bowness, cross to the Ferry House, from whence
is a short walk to The Station; having viewed the
Station, and re-embarking at the Ferry, proceed
southward, down the Lake, to Rawlinson’s Nab,
from which point there is a beautiful view of both
the Northern and Southern Reaches. Returning
northward, from Rawlinson’s Nab, leave Belle Isle
on the right hand; then passing the Lilly of the
Valley Islands, Lady Holm, and Rough Holm,
cross the upper Reach to Rayrigg Bank, the last and
best station: return along the eastern shore from
Rayrigg Bank to Bowness.
This excursion may occupy either the afternoon,
when the tourist has consumed the morning in the
road from Kendal to Bowness, or he may proceed
from Bowness to Ambleside in the evening, after
passing the morning on the Lake; but to those who
have both time and inclination to spend an entire
day or more at Bowness, I would earnestly recom-
mend so to apportion their time as to arrive at Ray-
rigg Bank about half an hour before sunset: few,
very few, sights can exceed the beauty of a fine
autumnal sunset on Windermere,EXCURSION ON THE LAKE.
29
The road from Bowness to the Lake-side leads
past the church by a serpentine walk, shut in by
neatly-trained laurel hedges. Embarking in Bowness
Bay, the first point to be made is the Ferry House, in
order to arrive at the Station, which is immediately
above it, and from whence there is a fine general
view of the Lake. Leaving Bowness Bay, you
skirt Belle Isle, having all the way a view of Hill-
bell, High Street, and the other mountains to the
north of Windermere: receding further from Bow-
ness, Elleray, the seat of Professor Wilson, gradually
emerges from the body of wood in which it has been
as yet concealed.
Berkshire Island, with the beautiful ground of
Storr’s Hall beyond, soon appear to the left; then
passing Crow Holm (on the right), run ashore at the
Ferry House, where, leaving the boat, a steep wind-
ing path leads to the Station, a look-out tower, built
by Mr. Curwen, upon a rocky eminence overhanging
the ferry. This station commands a fine view of both
reaches of the Lake ; but it is more remarkable for the
painted glass windows, which exhibit the Lake as it
appears affected by the various seasons of the year ;
the yellow panes representing the noontide of a
summer’s day; the orange, the mellow tints of au-
tumn ; the light green, the fresh buds of spring ; and
the light blue, the cold icy aspect of winter: there is
likewise a dark blue, which is intended to exemplify
“moonlight in winter;” and also a lilac colour,30
EXCURSION ON THE LAKE.
which gives a sufficiently correct resemblance of a
thunder-storm passing over this variable climate.
Having duly admired these unseasonable seasons,
together with the less glaring, but more pleasing
colours of nature from the brow of the Station-hill,
the tourist must now continue his course southward
down the Lake*, passing Berkshire Island and
Storr’s Hall, to Rawlinson’s Nab, a peninsular rock
of a circular figure, jutting out from the western
shore, about three miles and a half below Bowness,
and thickly covered with small brushwood : on both
sides of this rock a magnificent sheet of water ex-
pands itself to the right and left. Towards the
south the view is bounded by the barren sides and
round tops of Cartrael Fells, which carry the eye
northward to the beautifully-wooded ground of Storr’s
Hall: to the north of these again is Berkshire Is-
land ; and the view is terminated by the Island of
Belle Isle, above which appear the towering tops of
Hill-bell and High Street,
Returning northward from Rawlinson’s Nab, and
having passed the Ferry House, keep the channel to
the left of Belle Isle, at the northern extremity of
which are the two Lilly-of-the-Valley Holms, where
* The view here is very grand, extending as far as Newby Bridge,
a distance of seven miles ; and from this point it is that the accom-
panying illustration was sketched.Cartniel FeUs.
Jiau' Zvisans JVaJ?.
(?rised/z?<e
JLOWEJR. BEAC1 _WIHDEK.MMIS.3eI;
Tui^prajS^'S.-e. fy SAerwopd & Cf
Sondo/v.Furness Fell.
WetherlamFoot.	Hardfcnot.
Cords ton. O-Majv.	2iovrfe.lL.	Zarui dale Fikes
Wry nose.	^
loug hr loo Fell
FairfLelFL.
TrouLbeckHwvlred.
Kirks to ru\
WIEN'D.EISIM.JEME, from. ISuOfJKJt <& &
. SrvsidbnJie/rt&riX	fiy S/urr* Js '
SANK.
Wans fell. ripplefKsojte c omm
Hill Fell.
Jiioh Street.
n.RAYRIGG BANK.
31
every passer-by must, according to the old-es-
tablished custom, gather a handful of the fair flowers
which grow on every side in wild luxuriance, and
bear them off with him, or her, or them—“just for to
say,” as our boatman expressed it.
Having passed these islands, you plunge at once
into the wild and romantic scenery of the Upper
Reach; and Loughrigg Fell, Wrynose, Hardknot,
the Langdale Pikes, and the Coniston Fells, succes-
sively break in upon the view in crossing the Lake
towards Rayrigg Bank. Leaving Belle Isle on the
right, and subsequently Lady Holm, (so called from
having been once the site of a convent, dedicated to
our 6‘ Ladye of the Vallye,”) and Rough Holm,
another half mile brings us to Rayrigg Bank, a co-
nical grassy hill, rising from the midst of a wood
about two miles above Bowness.
Rayrigg Bank commands a finer general view of
Windermere, and its peculiar features, than any
other station^. Turning towards the south, what a
noble expanse of water meets the eye ! bespotted
with beautifully wooded islets; and how gloriously
environed! whilst to the northward the bare crags
* The accompanying etching is illustrative of the view, looking
north ; and the various lofty heights which compose this magnificent
mountain-view will be readily recognized by reference to the
plate.32
RAYRIGG BANK.
raise their lofty tops—abrupt yet elegant, fantastic
and wild in their sublimity.
“ Here hills and vales, the woodland and the plain •
Here earth and water, seem to strive again :
Not, chaos-like, together crushed and bruised,
But as the world, harmoniously confused ;
Where order in variety we see,
And where, though all things differ, all agree*.”
Pope.33
CHAPTER IV.
BOWNESS TO AMBLESIDE—AMBLESIDE—STOCK-
GILL FORCE.
Bowness to Ambleside, by Low-wood,___6 miles.
--------------------by Hawkshead ..17	. -
Miles by Ferry.	the	Miles.
2	The Ferry			
4	Hawkshead 		
3	Coniston Waterhead 		
3	Borwick Ground 			
5	Ambleside		
The ordinary road from Bowness to Ambleside
leads by Rayrigg and Low-wood, a distance of six
miles ; skirting the banks of Windermere, but offer-
ing few objects of interest, or worthy of remark ;
there is, however, another route, by which this may
be rendered an interesting and delightful journey ;
namely, by the Ferry to Hawkshead, and Coniston
W aterhead *.
* This excursion is, however, inserted only for the information
of those who may be unable or unwilling to return by the route which
I have proposed in the first chapter, as those who do follow the line
laid down will view the scenery here described without the necessity
of setting apart a day for this exclusive purpose.
c 234
BOWNESS TO HAWKSHEAD.
By this route, # Esth waite Water, Hawkshead,
and Coniston Water, are visited in succession,
the road itself being diversified by an infinite variety
of prospect, together with occasional glimpses of the
more Northern mountains, as far as Skiddaw; whilst
the verdant richness of the scenery on Windermere,
and the wild grandeur of the dark mountains which
frown around its head, combine to render the scene
at once pleasing in variety, and grand in intrinsic
beauties. Crossing Windermere at the Ferry, the
road passing beneath the Station which I have already
described, climbs the Steep Sawrey Heights ; from
the top of which is a beautiful retrospective view of
Windermere, Cartmel Fells, and the more distant
mountain of Ingleborough: whilst in front is seen
the glassy surface of Esth waite Water, the small neat
town of Hawksliead, the bleak and barren Coniston
Fells, and the more distant tops of Bowfell, the Pikes,
Fairfield, Helvellyn, and Skiddaw.
Passing along the banks of Esth waite Water, and
through the little market-town of Hawkshead, the
road to Coniston Waterhead inclines to the left,
leading over the edge of a barren and exposed heath,
called Hawkshead Moor: then inclining again to the
right, arrives by a steep and sudden declivity at
Waterhead, where good boats may be procured
* Thwaite signifies pasture; thus Micklethwaite, or Micthwaite,
is, great pasture, &c._2lVCbtkwaC£&.
Haverigp.
Cams ton, Ji’eils.
COMSTOl TLATfCE , from WATE1I1A1.
Zorufaru 7*u2>. u/lpriiJ5?¥<P'36, iy 3 'Asisv/ o aaZSc 6.aCONISTON WATER.
35
for an excusion on the Lake, and where a chaise
and post-horses are also kept.
Coniston, or as it is also called, Thurston Water,
is six miles in length, and about three-quarters of a
mile in width. The character of the scenery of this
Lake is unequal: the Lower Reach is very tame, nor
is the want of beauty at all ameliorated by straight,
unbending shores; but the bold and sublime gran-
deur of the head of the Lake will fully compensate
for any disappointment which may arise from want of
picturesque interest or beauty in its environs. The
best views of this Lake are to be had from its sur-
face, about three miles from Waterhead.
The route from Waterhead to Ambleside leads
again up the hill which we had before descended :
but on reaching Hawkshead Moor, the left-hand
road must be followed; this passes over a barren and
exposed plain at the foot of Oxen Fell, till it joins
the Hawkshead and Ambleside road, about four
miles from Ambleside. The remainder of the journey
is by an undulating and well-shaded road, leading
between the head of Windermere and Loughrigg
Fell, to Ambleside.36
AMBLESXDE
Is an ancient and irregularly built, but clean and
healthy town, perched on the side of the mountain-
ridge of Scandale. The town consists of a consi-
derable number of cottages, with a church on the hill
above them, and two good Inns, the Salutation and
the Commercial Inn. Immediately opposite to the
town arise the craggy tops of Loughrigg Fell and
Rydal-head, (part of the far-extended range of Fair-
field,) and its immediate vicinity abounds in elegant
and well-situated villas.
This town was, according to Camden, the Ambo-
glana# of the Romans, but Horseley asserts that it
was their Dictis : however that may be, we find the
town mentioned in 1278 as Amelsate, since which
time it has successively been called Hamelside, and
Amelside; and its present name, Ambleside, bears
date from the reign of Elizabeth. A weekly market,
and power to hold two fairs annually, was granted to
the inhabitants by James the Second, and the an-
* Camden states the dimensions of the fort to have been one
hundred and thirty-two ells in length, by eighty in breadth ;
and Roman bricks, urns, and other earthen vessels, together with
silver coins, have been frequently found here.STOCK-GILL-FORCE.
37
cient custom of rush-bearing is still regularly adhered
to *.
About half a mile from Ambleside is a cascade,
called Stock-Gill-Force, the key of which is kept at
the Salutation Inn. The water is divided by an
immense rock at the top of the cascade (which is
fifty feet in height,) into two streams, which reunite
whilst falling, and in one foaming torrent rush down
a steep and rocky bed, to join the Brathay below
Ambleside.
* The custom of the rush-bearing is as follows:—On one par-
ticular Saturday evening in every year, the young women of the
village walk in procession to the church, carrying each a garland
of rushes, ornamented with flowers; these they deposit in the
sacred edifice, where they remain until after divine service on the
Sunday, when each girl resuming her respective garland, they all
walk in procession, preceded by a band of music, after which the
day is generally concluded in merry-making. The origin of this
custom, which is of as ancient a date as that of the churches them-
selves, was this :—Churches, or at least country churches, in the
days of old, were at best but uncomfortable structures ; the walls
were bare, and the floors unpaved, and the only protection to the
feet from the damp earth could be but by a covering of rushes.
(Henzner, let it be remembered, in speaking of Queen Elizabeth’s
presence chamber at Greenwich, says, “The floor, after the English
fashion, was strewn with hay.”) This carpeting of rushes, how-
ever, what with the trampling of the pious, and the humidity of
Dame Nature’s flooring, was soon in a state to require renewal,
and the old covering was accordingly from time to time removed,
and fresh rushes were strewn in its place. In the course of time,
a practice which necessity had first suggested was converted int
a festival, and the annual rush-bearing was attended with great
ceremony and rejoicing. Such was the first origin of this once
universal custom, which the villages of Grasmere and Amble-
side, the towns of Rochdale (Lancashire), and Warton (York-
shire), together with the city of Norwich, alone preserve to his day.38
CHAPTER V.
LANGDALE EXCURSION;—SKELW1TH FORCE;—
LITTLE LANGDALE ;—COLWITH FORCE;—BLEA
TARN;—VALLEY OF THE STAKE;—GREAT
LANGDALE ;—MILLBECK ;—DUNGEON GILL ;—
HIGH CLOSE;—GRASMERE;—RYDAL WATER;
—AMBLESIDE.
Miles.	Miles.
3	Skelwith Bridge........................ 3
2	Colwith Force ......................... 5
3	BleaTarn .............................. 8
3	Dungeon Gill.......................... 11
2	Langdale Chapel Stile ................ 13
5 By High Close and Rydal to Amhleside ... 18
The road from Ambleside, through Little Langdale,
though rough, is nevertheless unjustly accused of
causing those many miseries of broken bones, and
contused limbs, which the journals of timid travellers
have so frequently detailed ; neither is it at all neces-
sary to roll and rumble through the livelong day in a
ponderous cart; a light car, such as may be procured
at Ambleside, will perform the journey with the
greatest ease, and without the slightest danger, pro-

'
*


SKELWITH FORCE—LITTLE LANGDALE. 39
vided the party tripping- does not object to an
occasional walk up and down some of the steepest
hills.
The road to Langdale, winding between the foot
of Loughrigg Fell, and the head of Windermere,
leads first to Skelwith Bridge. Thus far the traveller
will experience no danger of losing his road, as
guide-posts, though but few and far between higher
up the mountains, are not wanting here.
At Skelwith Bridge, a footpath (passable to po-
nies,) turning off to the right, leads up to Skelwith
Force, a cataract formed by the waters of the Bra-
thay, rushing headlong over a huge rock, which sud-
denly arrests their course: this cascade is more
remarkable for the vast body of water which is con-
tinually pouring itself into the depth below, than for
any attraction of picturesque or pleasing beauty.
Returning to the Bridge, which the tourist must
now cross, a road soon appears on the right, winding
up a steep, though short hill; this must be followed
through a thick and shady wood, till on passing
through the gate which leads to the Common, the
magnificent mountain-view of Little Langdale bursts
upon the sight.
The road now winds down a steep hill towards the
village of Colwith, at the foot of which it crosses a
picturesque bridge, thrown over the stream which
leaps down the Gill# from Colwith Force : traversing
* The word gill, ov ghyll, signifies a deep ravine.40
LITTLE LANGDALE.
this bridge, and taking the road to the left#, Col-
witli Force soon appears on the left—a pretty water-
fall, though not remarkable for either grandeur or
magnificence. The best view of it is frqm below.
4
Leaving Colwith Force on the left, the road winds
along the foot of the dark Lingmire to Little Lang-
dale Tarn, a most uncomfortable-looking pool, abun-
dantly fringed with rushes : the surrounding moun-
tain view, however, is grand and imposing, and the
great number of slate-quarries peculiarly striking.
Leaving Little Langdale Tarn, the road inclines to
the right, passing through two gates : this part of the
route is the most difficult both to find and to follow ;
care must therefore be taken to keep to the right-hand
road, after passing through the second gate, that
leading to the left being the ancient pack-horse road
from Kendal, over Wrynose to Whitehaven.
The road becomes now very rough, but the lover
of the picturesque is amply repaid for the severe
shaking, and the many hard thumps which he under-
goes, by the sight which gradually opens upon his
view. Nature revels in her wildest grandeur,
---------here, above, around, below,
On mountain or in glen,
Nor tree, nor shrub, nor plant, nor flower,
Nor ought of vegetative power,
The weary eye may ken ;
* That to the right leads to Great Langdale.'Ay&e.'r-wtfvT»r**7
“ MHX^JL TTI®
wgfr&fygptfBLEA TARN — THE STAKE.
41
For all is rocks at random thrown,
Black depths, bare crags, and banks of stone,
As if were here denied
The summer sun, the spring’s sweet dew,
That clothe, with many a varied hue,
The bleakest mountain side.*
The bare sides of Black Pike, and the craggy
heights of Blakerigg and Wetherlam, are the only
features that compose this wild and deserted moun-
tain-view, till about a quarter of a mile from the gate
which I have already mentioned, when the Langdale
Pikes just raise their twin heads above the horizon ;
gradually as you advance they seem to grow and
mount towards the skies: next appear Bowfell, the
Band, and Pike O’Bliscoe, till the whole are de-
veloped, in proud and stern array; and “ the little
lonely vale” of Blea Tarn opens upon the sight:
still the mountain seems to grow more stern and
awful, as if forbidding further approach, till you
stand upon the dizzy edge of Blackridge, and see the
beauteous valley of the Stake spread out far beneath
your feet.
Into this valley now swings down (to use an ex-
pressive phrase of the country) a steep and precipi-
tous road, where it will again be found advisable to
walk ; this, however, will be thought a relief, rather
than an inconvenience, as it will afford an opportu-
nity to the lovers of the romantic and the picturesque
* Scott.42
GREAT LANGDALE.
to seek for the point of view most pleasing- to their
taste ; and to the amateur to provide himself with
sketches (for who can pass them by ?) of Blea Tarn*
and the valley of the Stake ; but ladies and gentle-
men, sketchers and romancers, gentle tourists all—
beware of the bogs !
Descending the hill, turn to the right hand, through
the first gate after passing the farm-house at the heap
of the valley, and another bend to the right before
coming to the Bridge over the stream, flowing down
the Stake valley, will bring you into the valley of
Great Langdale. Pursuing the road through one or
two gates, a foaming cascade appears on the left,
* 1 cannot deny myself the pleasure of inserting here Mr. Words-
worth’s very beautiful and accurate delineation of Blea Tarn :—
‘‘ We scaled, Avithout a track to ease our steps,
A steep ascent, and reached a dreary plain,
With a tumultuous waste of huge hill-tops
Before us : savage region! which I paced
Dispirited ; when all at once, behold !
Beneath our feet a little, lowly vale,
A lowly vale, and yet uplifted high
Among the mountains : even as if the spot
Had been from eldest time by wish of theirs
So placed,—to be shut out from all the world :
Urn-like it was in shape, deep as an urn,
With rocks encompassed, save that to the south
Was one small opening, where a heath-clad ridge
Supplied a boundary less abrupt and close :
A quiet, treeless nook, with two green fields;
A liquid pool, that glittered in the sun,
And one bare dwelling ; one abode, no more !”
>	The Excursion.Tilce alBliscae
StylekncL-.
T/ia Band,	■	.Bawfdk.-
T/ic Stake-.
ffarrisen-. Sickle
kike a Stickle.
VALLEY OF THE STAKE„
IsruL'nfiit.'i'iprtitt*i$3o.t\ SfornswiIS.'>

.StiverHow.
Hamm or Scarr
The Carrs.
Has dale
Helm, Craa
(& JRL A. § IMEE M-E
from XoTj-glxigg Fell.
JOusvruul ,‘luesre.
Steec^eZl.
Jieiz 'ecty/v.
/ \z^y~/c<svC^Z/.
J lXZ/s SaSl&Za/r.GRASMERE.
43
rushing headlong from a lofty summit of the Lang-
dale Pikes ; at the foot of the mountain are two small
cottages, to which the neighbouring stream has given
the name of Millbeck : at one of these the car must
be left, and a guide procured, in order to visit the
singular and romantic Cataract of Dungeon Gill*.
The next object of interest is Thrang Slate quarry,
which is on the left of the road, about one mile and a
half from Millbeck, and which will enable the be-
holder to form a pretty correct idea of the manner in
which these stupendous works of human industry are
carried on.
Leaving the quarry, about half a mile further on is
Style-End, where, having passed a small chapel and
an ale-house, in a most neighbourly vicinity, take the
road to the left; this, passing near the farm-house of
High Close, skirts Loughrigg Fell, affording some fine
views of Loughrigg Tarn, Elterwater, and Winder-
mere, till it joins a road leading from Skelwith
Bridge : keeping still to the left, and winding round
Loughrigg Fell, we soon come in sight of Grasmere,
at its finest point of view. From hence, the road, di-
* Dungeon Gill is a lofty and exceedingly picturesque fall,
situated in a deep cleft of the hill, under Harrison Stickle ; two
enormous rocks have fallen into the top of the chasm, and give to
the Dungeon (the provincial term for a deep chasm) an air of
dark and gloomy horror : the height of the fall is about 60 feet.
Mr. Wordsworth has a pleasing little poem, founded on the fact
of a lamb having fallen from the top of the Gill into the basin below,
whence it was rescued, unhurt.44
RYDAL LAKE — PELTER BRIDGE.
versified with beautiful views of hill and dale, wood
and water, leads by the margin of Rydal Lake and
village, till it joins the Keswick and Ambleside road
at Pelter Bridge; whence, turning to the right, a
pleasant ride of a mile and a half brings us once
more to Ambleside, and concludes, in a circuit of
eighteen miles, certainly the most varied, if not the
most beautiful excursion, in the Lake district.-£t?uyhriyy jSM.
Stiver JSow.
Sly Sal ITcaS.
STaazmar Scan
1YML WATER
ri'om the South East.

ScofIf&lrn, Cray.CHAPTER VI.
ASCENT OF THE LANGDALE PIKES.
Miles.	Miles.
7 Arableside to Millbeck ............ 7
I would recommend the ascent of this mountain-
summit to the notice of the tourist, for two reasons;
in the first place, the intrinsic beauty of the sur-
rounding scenery will amply repay him for the trou-
ble ; and moreover, because in ascending this the
first of the major mountains, he sees the field of his
future operations spread out far before him, and he
is thus enabled to become better acquainted with
the ground which he is about to traverse, and with
the most striking objects and land-marks on his
future way.
The ascent of the Langdale Pikes is not very diffi-
cult ; but it is yet sufficiently steep to prepare the
pedestrian for the more arduous ascents of Helvel-
lyn and Skiddaw :—many of the fair sex have, how-
ever, graced the rough summit of Harrison Stickle.
And here I must be allowed a moment’s digression,46
MILLBECK.
in order to give a few short words of advice to the
pedestrian tourist, relative to his equipment:—For
mountain-climbing, shoes and gaiters will be found
to be at once more serviceable and agreeable than
boots; a long staff, armed at one end with an iron
spike, will also be of great use and assistance; and a
small flask of weak brandy and water, will not be
deemed ungrateful, by the thirsty aspirant; a linen
jacket, and a light cap or straw-hat, will complete
his equipment, and he is then, to use the^a/ois of
the country, “ in good fettle to dim t’fells.”
The best point to commence the ascent of the
Langdale Pikes is at Millbeck, which I have before
mentioned as situated towards the head of Great
Langdale. The road from Ambleside to Great
Langdale is the same with that to Skelwith Bridge,
until you come in sight of the latter place, when it
branches off to the right;—then passing Loughrigg
Tarn, and the small lake of Elterwater, it leads up a
steep hill, from the top of which we have a fine view
of the valley, and entrance to Great Langdale*.
About half a mile farther on, are the chapel and ale-
house mentioned in the preceding chapter, and a
farther ride of three miles brings us to Millbeck.
At Millbeck, a guide may be procured ; but should
the ascent be, either by chance or necessity, under-
taken without one, the following brief hints will not
be found altogether useless.
* The subject of the accompanying illustration./4e&! trios>v.
Xiru??rurc.
JBowfcZl.
G-? Jiang date.
J^z/co j U tzclcly.
JTarrisesn S&ctcZc
JUigA C'-U’Si .

GT .lAFGD AILE	• - • : * ‘ :
	
	, ■■^
A	, ; , .v '
	
	/
%
47
DIRECTIONS.
Ascending the mountain, follow the beaten track
by which peat is brought down from Stickle Tarn,
keeping the stream, which flows from the Tarn,
always to the right. This route will bring the pedes-
trian in due course of time to Stickle Tarn*, a lonely
and desolate-looking pool, at the foot of the frown-
ing heights of Pavey Ark :—keep to the left hand
shore of the Tarn, and wind round the hill to its
Northern extremity ; then, turning short to the left,
and keeping the little streamlet to the right, another
half hour’s clambering will place you on the top of
Harrison’s Stickle.
The view from this elevated spot, as may be seen
from the accompanying sketches, is very extensive ;
one gentleman, indeed, assured me that he had been
able to distinguish the Welsh mountains, but they
were not visible on the day of my ascentf.
The descent may be quickly accomplished by the
* This Tarn is celebrated for the superior quality of its trout.
•f It is a curious fact that the ponies used for drawingthe sledges
on this mountain are imported from Wales, those of the country
being found unequal to the work.48
RETURN TO AMBLESIDE.
same route, and the return to Ambleside be, either
by the same road, through Great Langdale, or by
High Close, turning off at the chapel, and following
the route pointed out in the preceding excursions *.
* Langdale excursion, vide page 43.VIEW |EOM THE XAUGB A1LE PIKE § ,
looking TSTorth..







VIEW .FROM
THE 1LAFTGBAEE PIKES
looking East.
. Z j nslsniip riZ22?2& 7,^ byffarwaed&G?49
REFERENCE TO THE PLATES.
FOUR VIEWS FROM THE SUMMIT OF HARRISON STICKLE,
LANGDALE PIKES.
I.
LOOKING NORTH.
1.	Coniston Old Man, Lanca-
shire.
2.	Great Carrs, Westmoreland.
3.	Gate Crag, Lancashire.
4.	Seathwaite, Lancashire.
5.	Gatescale, Westmoreland.
6.	Style End, Westmoreland.
7.	Crinkle Crag, Westmoreland.
8.	Grinston Knot, Westmore-
land.
9.	The Band, Cumberland.
10.	Pike o’Bliscoe, Cumberland.
11.	Pike o’Stickle, Westmore-
land.
II.
LOOKING EAST.
1.	Coldbeck Fell, Cumberland.
2.	Skiddaw, Cumberland.
3.	Highraise, Cumberland.
4.	Saddleback, Cumberland.
5.	Harrrspoint, Cumberland.
6.	Candle Pike, Cumberland.
7.	Candle Moor, Cumberland.
8.	Helvellyn, Cumberland and
Westmoreland.
9.	Grasmere Fells, Westmore-
land.
10.	Grisedale Hawse, West-
moreland.
11.	Grisedale Pike, Westmore-
land.
12.	Grasmere Sets Plandle, West-
moreland.
13.	Easdale Fell, Westmoreland.
14.	CawtreyPike,Westmoreland.
15.	Pavey Oak, Westmoreland.
16.	Benson Fell, Westmoreland.
17.	Stickle Tarn, Westmoreland.
D50
III.
LOOKING SOUTH.
Grisedale Head, Westmore-
land.
2.	Fairfield, Westmoreland.
3.	Grasmoor, Westmoreland.
4.	Kirkstone, Westmoreland.
5.	High Street, Westmoreland.
(3. Wansfell, Westmoreland.
7.	Kentmere Head, Westmore-
land.
8.	Hill Bell, Westmoreland.
9.	ApplethwaiteCommon,West-
moreland.
10.	StavelyHead,Westmoreland.
11.	Long Sleddale, Westmore-
land.
12.	Grayrigg Forest, Westmore-
land.
13.	Winfell, Westmoreland.
14.	Underbarrow Scarr, West-
moreland.
15.	Witherslack Fell, Westmore-
land.
16.	Cartnel Fell, Lancashire.
17.	Huggle Fell, Lancashire.
18.	Windermere.
19.	Front Beck, Westmoreland.
20.	Vale of Ambleside, West-
moreland.
21.	Loughrigg Fell, Westmore-
land.
22.	Loughrigg Tarn, Westmore-
land.
23.	Etterwater, Westmoreland.
24.	Rydal Head, Westmoreland.
25.	Helm Crag, Westmoreland.
26.	Benson Fell, Westmoreland.
IV.
LOOKING WEST.
1.	Windermere.
2.	Witherstack Fell, West-
moreland.
3.	Cartnell Fell, Lancashire.
4.	Burgrunt Fell, Lancashire.
5.	Sizergh Fell, Westmoreland.
6.	Arnside Fell, Westmoreland.
7.	Morecambe Bay.
8.	Wetherlam End, Lancashire.
9.	Grizedale, Lancashire.
10.	Foulsha, Westmoreland.
11.	Graythort, Lancashire.
12.	Hawkshead Moor, Lancash.
13.	Esthwaite Water.
14.	Sawrey Heights, Lancashire.
15.	Wernfell, Lancashire.
16.	Arnside, Lancashire.
17.	Lingmire, Westmoreland.
18.	Blakerigg, Westmoreland.VIEW FROM THE LAWGBALE TIKES,
looking TVest.
lon&bfuAZrlzriJJffiSJ'?. cy Stern . jjt i:Sf.
51
CHAPTER VII.
AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK; — RYDAL ; — GRAS-
MERE ; —■ DUNMAIL RAISE ; — THIRLMERE ; —
VALE OF ST. JOHN ;—KESWICK ;—EXCURSION
ON DERWENTWATER;—DRUIDICAL TEMPLE,
CASTLERIGG.
Miles.	Miles.
Rydal • • .............................i • lg
3 Grasmere Tarn............................. 4g
4 Nag’s Head, Wythburn...................... 85
2J King’s Head, Thrispot.................... 11
6 Keswick...................................   17
The road from Ambleside to Keswick leads between
Loughrigg Fell and Nab Scarr (a link in the far ex-
tended chain of Fairfield,) through a beautiful suc-
cession and infinite variety of lake and mountain
scenery. The lakes of Grasmere, Rydal, Thirhnere,
and Derwentwater; the mountains of Fairfield,
Helen Crag, Helvellyn, Skiddaw, and Blencathara,
or Saddleback; the pass of Ray’s Gap, with the val-
lies of Grasmere, Wythburn, and the romantic vale52
RYDALE WATER.
of Saint John, with its well-known Castle Rock,
forming the most prominent features of the ride.
About a mile from Ambleside, on the left, is Pel-
ter Bridge ; which, it may be remembered, we crossed
in returning from the Langdale excursion : on an
eminence to the right are Rydal Hall and Park, the
seat of Lady Le Fleming, by whom the Church was
also built and endowed. Rydal Park was formed by
charter of King Edward the First; but the deer were
all destroyed when the estate was confiscated, and
the demesne has not since been re-stocked.
A little above the Church is Rydal Mount, the re-
sidence of the poet Wordsworth; and near the Hall
are two small but pretty cascades, called Rydal Falls.
Leaving Rydal Hall to the right, the road turns
abruptly to the left, passing through a defile formed
by the impending heights of Nab Scarr and Lough-
rigg Fell to Rydal Water ; a pleasing little lake
about three quarters of a mile long, and spotted with
several beautifully-wooded islets, on one of which is a
heronry : here, to the right of the read, at the foot of
Nab Scarr *, is a large slate quarry, called the White
Moss.
Skirting the North-Eastern shore of Rydal Water,
the road now winds beneath the rugged heights of
Rydal Head, till the vale, first slightly contracting,
opens again into the calm and peaceful retreat of
Grasmere.
Scan, au escarpment of living rock.GRASMERE LAKE.
53
Grasmere is a small, but beautifully-formed lake,
situated in a valley of the same name, and surrounded
by an “ ample amphitheatre of kills.” On the North
are the Cans, Helm Cragg, and Steel Fell; on the
East, the long and lofty ridge of Fairfield ; on the
South, Loughrigg Fell; and the tall rugged steeps of
Silver How on the West; and in the centre of the
lake is one small island, which rises into a small
hillock, and forms an agreeable object in the
view.
Skirting Grasmere Lake, and leaving the little vil-
lage and church at its head on the left, the road now
commences the long and steep ascent of the pass of
Ray’s Gap, (more commonly termed Dunmail Raise,)
the entrance to which is guarded by Helm Cragg on
the left, and the long range of Fairfield on the right:
past Flelm Cragg the road lies between the lofty
ridges of Fairfield and Steel Fell, till, at the highest
point of the Slack*, between Seat Sandal, on the
right, and Steel Fell on the left, we pass from West-
moreland into Cumberland, at the ancient boundary
of Dunmail Raise.
The Cairn of Dunmail Raise consists of a consi-
derable heap of pebble stones, which lie to the right
of the road, and were, according to tradition, piled
over the body of Dunmail, the last king of Cumbria,
who here hazarded a battle with the Saxon king,
Edmund the First, by whom he was slain. The four
* Slack, an elevated pass between two mountains.54
THIRLMERE.
sons of Dunmail likewise fell into the hands of the
victor, who put out their eyes, and imprisoned them
during the remainder of their lives ; and thus the
Cairn commemorated at once the victory of Edward,
the death of Dunmail, and the extinction of the Cum-
brian monarchy (a. d. 945).
From the summit of Dunmail Raise Gap, we first
look down upon the beautiful little vale of Wyth-
burn, with its dark and narrow lake, shut in by a
thousand bare and rugged rocks ; and descending
the hill, we come to the small chapel of Wythburn,
opposite to which is the neat mountain hostelry of the
Nag’s Head: here the traveller may refresh himself
and horse, for he has yet many a steep and weary
hill to climb, ere he reaches his journey’s end
from hence, too, he may commence his ascent of
Helvellyn, according to the suggestions contained in
the last chapter.
Thirlmere, also called Leathes, or Wythburn
Water, lies at the foot of Helvellyn, whose base it
skirts for a distance of nearly four miles, fed by the
silvery streams which pour themselves down the
huge mountain’s sides : it is in form not unlike the
figure 8, being almost intersected near the mid-
dle by two peninsulas, joined by a rustic bridge,
which, in simplicity of style, is in good keeping with
the surrounding scene. This lake has a greater
elevation than any of the others, being at the height
of five hundred feet above the level of the sea; its
greatest depth is eighteen fathoms : the water is re-J3 orrowdale-J-'etts.	Haven- Crag.	Skieidajv
THIMILMEKE FROM RAYS OAFVale OF ST. JOHN.
55
markably clear, and of a deep blue colour, but the
only fish are a few pike and trout.
The general character ofThirlmere is a gloomy, wild
magnificence : the verdant front of the mighty Hel-
vellyn sinks, with a graceful sweep, to the very edge
of the water ; and on the opposite side a thousand
huge rocks overhang the calm blue lake, their craggy
bases sinking abruptly into the waves; whilst the
verdant mountains of Borrowdale form a bold and
noble back-ground.
----“ And silence aids, tho’ these steep hills
Send to the lake a thousand rills ;
In summer-tide so oft they weep,
The sound but lulls the ear asleep ;
Your horse’s hoof tread sounds too rude,
So stilly is the solitude
The road now descends through the vale for se-
veral miles, with but little variety, save of hill or dale,
or little worthy of notice, with the exception of a
good general view of Thirlmere, from the Northern
extremity, till we enter the beautiful and romantic
vale of St. John.
The valley of St. John, or Wanthwaite, is a
deep and narrow dell, shut in by gloomy and barren
crags, and terminated at the North extremity by the
noble ridge of Bleucarthara, or Saddleback. Near
the centre of this valley, on the right, is the Castle
* Scott.56
VALE OF KESWICK.
Rock of St. John, so celebrated by the poetic
genius of the minstrel of the North.
Leaving the valley of Saint John to the right, the
road now winds towards the left, crossing the stream
which issues from Thirlmere, at Smallthwaite Bridge,
and passing betwixt the How and Haddlefell, leads
over a barren and desolate heath, lying between the
latter hill and Wallow Crag, till about two miles from
Keswick, when it begins to climb the steep ascent of
Castlerigg; from the summit of which, Browtops, you
come at once upon the glorious vale of Keswick,
with all its “ noble amphitheatre of hills.”
In the midst of an extensive and well-cultivated
plain, stands the neat little town of Keswick ; the
small white church of Crosthwaite forming a conspi-
cuous object in the vale beyond. To the left of the
town is the dark lake of Derwentwater, with its
woody islands, and in the distance, to the right, the
blue water of Bassenthwaite; the river Derwent pur-
suing its serpentine course between the two lakes.
This enchanting valley is shut in by the mountains
of Borrowdale, Buttermere, Newlauds, and Withrop,
on the South and West; by Skiddaw and Saddleback
on the North ; and by Castlerigg and Falcon Crag on
the East; altogether forming a vast and beautiful
coup d'oeil.
The road now descends the hill by a steep and
winding route, at the foot of which we enter the
pleasant little town of Keswick.WaddteJeU.	.PSofWutes file#.
Saddled aelc.TOWN OF KESWICK.
57
Keswick*, the metropolis of the English lakes, is
a small but neat town, situated in a pleasant and well-
cultivated valley at the foot of Skiddaw, and close to
the romantic lake of Derwentwater.
The town consists of one long street, containing
about 2200 inhabitants : it has a market on Saturday,
and three annual fairs. The principal manufactures
are those of linsey and woollen goods, fancy waist-
coatings, and black-lead pencils, the lead for which
(here called wad,) is procured from a mine amongst
the mountains of Borrowdale. The best inns are the
Royal Oak and Queen’s Head; and there are also
many houses, which are let out in private lodgings,
some of which are very neatly furnished and plea-
santly situated. Postchaises, ponies, and jaunting
cars, are kept at the inns, where experienced and
intelligent guides for the mountain trips, and boat-
men, with good pleasure-boats, for the Lake, may also
be procured. A coach runs daily through the town
to Whitehaven and Kendal.
Keswick also contains two Museums (Hutton’s
and Crosthwaite’s,) which are well worthy a visit:
they exhibit many specimens of natural history pecu-
liar to the country, which cannot but be interesting
to the inquiring traveller^ ; and at both, a variety of
* Anciently Derventione.
•f- Amongst these are the musical stones, which were found in the
bed of the river Greta. These being struck with a stick, emit sounds,
varying in tone according to their size, and as finely modulated as
those of a musical instrument.
D 258 VIEWS FROM CASTLEHEAD AND FRIAR CRAG.
spars, and other interesting specimens of mineralogy,
are constantly kept on sale.
The best station for viewing the Vale of Keswick,
within the limits of a walk, is Castlehead, a well-
wooded rock, rising to the height of 280 feet above
the lake, on its North-Eastern shore. A path turning
off to the left, from the Borrowdale road, about half
a mile from the inn, leads to the summit of this hill,
whence is a delightful view of the lake, with its
many islands, and its overhanging mountains, with
the highest point of Scawfell Pike. Crosthwaite
Church forms a pleasing object in the valley; and, far
beyond the Waters of Bassenthwaite, is the faintly-
traced outline of Crif Fell, in Scotland ; whilst imme-
diately beneath the hill, lies the little town of Kes-
wick, backed by the many tops of the “ double-
fronted” Skiddaw.
Another favourite promenade is by the water-side to
Friar Crag, a distance of three-quarters of a mile :
this walk commands a pleasant view of the lake,
though not so extensive as that from the Castlehead.
Several other beautiful views of the vale and moun-
tains may also be found from many parts of the road
leading by Applethwaite to the foot of Skiddaw;
whilst those who would wish to seek a wider range of
scene, may climb the loftier summit of the mighty
Skiddaw’s cub, Latrigg*.
* On the crown of Castlerigg, a little to the right of the old road
from Keswick to Penrith, and about one mile and a half from the
former place, is an interesting Druidical temple, consisting of forty-DERWENTWATER.
59
Derwentwater, sometimes, but less properly, called
Keswick Lake, is three miles in length, and rather
more than a mile in breadth, and contains 1282 acres
of water, but its depth no where exceeds forty
fathoms. Its islands comprise about thirteen acres :
these islands, of which the principal are Lord’s Island,
Vicar’s Island, St. Herbert’s Island, and Ramp-
sbolm’s, are all richly clothed with wood, and are
situated towards the North extremity of the lake;
whilst at the South-Eastern end, opposite to Lowdore,
is that natural curiosity of Derwentwater, the floating
island* *.
eight blocks of unhewn stone, placed upright, and disposed in the
form of an oval, thirty-four yards in length, by thirty in breadth.
The largest of these stones does not exceed seven feet in height, and
but few are above three or four feet; ten of them form an oblong
square on the Eastern side of the oval, which recess is supposed to
have been the holy place of the Druids.
The prospect from this spot is very extensive, commanding line
views of Helvellyn, Skiddaw, Saddleback, Derwentwater, and the
Borrowdale mountains, and was well calculated, from its position, to
excite the holy zeal of the worshippers, who bowed to the God of
the hills and the vallies.
* This island is about 150 yards from the shore, where the water
does not exceed six feet in depth. When lying at the bottom of the
lake, it does not differ in appearance from the surrounding soil, but
its peculiarity consists in its rising, or floating, at times, on the sur-
face of the lake : it never rises far above the level of the water, but
fluctuates with its rise and fall, till it gradually sinks again to the
bottom. The cause of this phenomenon is pretty well ascertained to
be a gas, generated by the decomposition of vegetable matter in the
body of the island, which causes it to float on the surface, till, the
lighter air being exhausted, it again sinks to its resting place. This
air is said, by Dr. Dalton, to consist of equal parts of carburetted60
WALLOW CRAG.
The road to the lake leads by Crow Park, formerly
a venerable grove of stately oaks (1715), but now an
extensive and shadowless meadow, to a small bay,
formed by Crow Park on the North, and Friar Crag
on the South. Embarking in this bay, immediately in
front is Vicar’s Island, on which is the residence of
General Peachy : this island is also sometimes called
Pocklington’s Island, and from General Peachy it
has received the name of Derwent Island, but it is
still more frequenly called by its ancient name of
Vicar’s Island. Southward, between this island and
the promenade, the tourist must now proceed, and
passing^ on his left, Friar Crag, he enters another bay,
formed by Friar Crag on the North, and Lord’s Island
on the South : the chief object at this point is Wallow
Crag, who rears his rugged top to the height of 1000
feet above the lake ; and, on the South side of AVallow
Crag, is a deep ravine, down which a torrent pours
hydrogen and azotic gases, with a little carbonic acid. The periods
of its appearance vary according to the state of the atmosphere ; but
it generally rises after an interval of a few years, and towards the
close of a hot summer ; and this fact, of the influence of the atmos-
phere on its movements, seems to confirm the assertion, that they
originate in a fixed air, which is generated underneath it. It
should be observed that, even whilst above the water, its sides are
still attached to the bottom of the lake. Its form and dimensions
likewise vary, sometimes containing half an acre of ground, at
others but a few perches.
The dates of its appearances during the last twenty-five years, are
as follows—In July, 180S; in September, 1813; in August, 1815;
in August, 1819; in June, 1824 ; in September, 1825 ; in July,
1826 ; in June, 1831 ; and lastly, in August, 1835.BEJRWEOTWATER & EITMIC‘1 TO BO110WMIE.BARROW FALL.
61
itself into the lake. This hollow bears the name of
the Lady’s Rake, from the reputed escape of the
Countess of Derwentwater, during the night, by this
steep and rocky pass, on learning the fatal news of
her husband’s arrest.
Passing Lord’s Island, and entering another bay,
beneath the craggy heights of Falcon Crag to the
right, is seen St. Herbert’s Island, an islet of about
four acres in extent, covered with wood. This island
derives its name from the holy St. Herbert, who,
in days of yore, resided there. Friar Crag also takes
its appellation from the same pious original.
Barrow House, the seat of J. Pocklington, Esq.,
now appears on the left: and, at a small pier, which
has been built for the purpose, the tourist must dis-
embark, and walk up to the house in order to view
Barrow Fall, a pretty cascade, situated in the grounds
at the back of the house ; the water falling down the
rock, a depth of 120 feet, in two distinct leaps.
Re-embarking on the lake, we must now proceed
Southward, having on the way some fine views of
Castle Crag and the entrance to Borrowdale, up the
clear smooth stream of the Derwent, till we come to
a small landing place, where we must again disem-
bark, and walk to the little inn, in order to view the
grand and majestic Lowdore* !
* Cumberland has thus apostrophised the River Derwent:—
“Ye pagean streams, that roll in state,
By the vain windows of the great,
RestG2
CATARACT OF LOWDORE.
Lowdore is generally considered the finest cataract
in the North—the Niagara of the lakes ; and this, in
some seasons, it certainly is. Between the rugged
sides of Shepherd and Gowdar Crags, down a chasm
of 150 feet in depth, the waters of the Watendlath
are hurled with such prodigious violence, that in a
wet season, when the bed of the river is full, the
noise of the fall is said to be audible at a distance
of ten or twelve miles. In a dry season, however,
the water fails so utterly, that Lowdore becomes an
inconsiderable streamlet; but, when the stream is
swollen by frequent rains, the scene is, in the highest
degree, grand and picturesque. The massive frag-
ments of stone piled up on either side—the hanging
trees which grace their gaping fissures—the rough
grey rocks which tower above all—and the wild
stream which leaps, thundering and foaming, down
the rugged precipice—form a picture at once ma-
jestically rude and beautiful.
At the inn of Lowdore, a cannon is kept, for the
purpose of proving the echo, which is very strong in
this part of the lake. The peal is thrown to-and-fro,
Rest on your muddy ooze, and see
Old majestic Derwent force
His independent course,
And learn of him and nature to be free.
And you, triumphal arches, shrink ;
Ye temples tremble, and ye columns sink ;
One nod from Wallow’s craggy brow,
Shall crush the dome
Of sacerdotal Rome,
And lay her glittering gilded trophies low.”RETURN TO KESWICK.
63
by the mountains, which rise abruptly, like mighty
walls, on both sides of the vale, and the sound is heard
reverberating in the deep dells, flung from rock to
rock, till it dies away in the heart of the mountains.
The return to Keswick will be along the Wes-
tern shore, St. Herbert’s Island being visited by
the way, and thus will be concluded, in about three
hours’ space, the tour of Derwentwater — the
pride of Keswick Vale—the gem of the English
Lakes !64
CHAPTER VIII.
ASCENT OF HELVELLYN.
The view from the summit of Helvellyn is generally
considered to be the finest mountain view in the dis-
trict of the Lakes: the Lakes of Bassenthwaite and
Ullswater ; Windermere, Esthwaite, and Coniston ;
the mountains of Scotland and Northumberland ; toge-
ther with the whole range of the Lake mountains, from
the Solway Firth on the North, to the Bay of More-
cambe on the South, are spread out like a map before
you; whilst the central position of the mountain
itself renders the view at once more extensive than
that from the Langdale Pikes, more pleasing and
equal than that from Scawfell, and less confused than
that from Skiddaw. Nor is the ascent of the moun-
tain either very difficult or dangerous, though, in
some parts, steep and fatiguing.
There are several points whence the aspirants
for peripatetic fame and a bird’s-eye view (generally
more than half obscured by a fog.) commence their
ascent of Helvellyn. Some bold pedestrians under-WYTHBURN.
65
take the escalade from Wythburn, others from Pat-
terdale, whilst some few traverse the mountain-ridge
from Ambleside, passing over Fairfield ; but of all
these stations, Wythburn is undoubtedly the best:
situated midway between Ambleside and Keswick, it
breaks in upon a long stage, in a hilly and distressing-
road, and affords a needed rest to both man and
horse, whilst the ascent is less difficult than from any
other point, and may be easily accomplished in the
course of two or three hours. It would therefore be
desirable for those who are intent on a peep from the
top of the mountain, to breakfast at Ambleside, and,
stopping at Wythburn on their way to ]£eswick,
from thence to address themselves to the ascent of
Helve! lyn.
Having arrived at Wythburn, and paid your
devoirs to ‘‘mine host” of the Nag’s Head (which, it
may be as well to mention, for the benefit of all tra-
vellers who would seek for a dignified and noble
hostelry, is immediately opposite to the small Chapel
at the head of Thirlmere,) provide yourself with a
stout stick, without which the scaling of the slippery
sides of Helvellyn is no easy task. A guide may
also be procured here, but, if any adventurous tra-
veller should feel inclined to tempt the fates without
one, the track will easily be found, if the following
directions be carefully attended to.66
DIRECTIONS.
Leaving* the inn, proceed for about 200 yards
along the Keswick road ; then turn in at a gate on
the right hand : here you will observe a stream rush-
ing down the mountain side; take care to keep this
stream on your left hand. Passing through another
gate, ascend the mountain, keeping the stream still
to the left, and following the beaten track, which,
though but slightly marked, will be found a great
assistance ; care must also be taken not to wander
too far from the stream, as it must eventually be
crossed. Proceed thus for about an hour and a
quarter, until you come to a small plain, where the
stream is again visible, descend the plain to the
stream, still however bearing towards the top of the
mountain. Cross the stream about 200 yards below
the spot where the spring called Brownrigg Well
issues from the rock, and mount the opposite hill in
the direction whence the spring issues, inclining
however a little (above five degrees,) to the left.
Another half-hours hard climbing will bring the
pedestrian—fatigued, hot, thirsty, and delighted—to
the foot of Helvellyn* Man.
* Helvellyn is, next to Scawfell and Scawfell Pike, the loftiest
mountain in England, being, according to Col. Mudge, 3055 feet
above the level of the sea. Its height above Wythburn is 2543 feet.DIRECTIONS.
67
As I have before said, it is not my intention either
to describe or dilate upon the beauty and grandeur
of the surrounding panorama : the illustrative views
will give the names of the various mountains, nor can
the splendid scene which they compose receive any
new charms from my weak goose-quill. Here, then,
I will leave the tourist to fill up the blank of descrip-
tion according to his own ideas, wishing him a safe
journey down again, and no fogs.68
REFERENCE TO THE PLATES.
view from the summit of helvellyn.
I.
LOOKING NORTH.
1.	Scotch Mountains. 2.	Solway Frith. 3.	Skiddaw, Cumberland. 4.	Thelcot Vale, Cumberland. 5.	Saddleback, Cumberland. 6.	Scilly Bank, Cumberland. 7.	Matterdale, Westmoreland. 8.	Dodd Fell, Westmoreland.	9. Grisedale Fell, Cumberland. 10.	Greenside, Cumberland. 11.	Catsedecam, Cumberland. 12.	Helvellyn Top, Westmore- land. 13.	Keppel Cove Tarn, West- moreland. 14.	Swirrel Edge, Westmoreland.
11.
LOOKING EAST.
1.	Matterdale, Westmoreland. 2.	Martindale, Westmoreland. 3.	Dodd Fell, Cumberland. 4.	High Row, Cumberland. 5.	Stybarrow Crag, Westmorel. 6.	Ullswater. 7.	Swarth Fell, Westmoreland. 8.	Kidsay Pike, Cumberland. 9.	Harter Fell, Westmoreland. 10. Cross Fell, Westmoreland.	11.	Beck Fell, Westmoreland. 12.	Thrang Crag, Westmoreland. 13.	Place Fell, Westmoreland. 14.	Glenridding, Westmoreland. 15.	Gowbarrow Parks, Cumber- land. 16.	Black Coomb, Cumberland. 17.	Swirrel Edge, Westmorel. 18.	Red Tarn, Westmoreland. 19.	Striding Edge, Westmorel.
view fiom heivehlyit.
looking ISTorch..
■‘looking East.69
III.
LOOKING SOUTH.
1.	High Street, Westmoreland.
2.	Scandale, Westmoreland.
3.	Hill Bell, Westmoreland.
4.	Long Sleddale, Westmorel.
5.	Shap Fells, Westmoreland.
6.	Arnside Fells,Westmoreland.
7.	Kirkstone, Westmoreland.
8.	Fairfield, Westmoreland.
9.	Dolly Waggon Pike, West-
moreland.
10.	Loughrigg Fell, Westmore-
land.
11.	Cartmell Fell, Lancashire.
12.	Morecambe Bay.
13.	Windermere Lake, West-
moreland and Lancashire.
14.	Esthwaite Water, Lancashire.
15.	Nibthwaite Fells, Lancash.
16.	High Birch, Lancashire.
17.	Foulsha, Westmoreland.
18.	Grange Fells, Lancashire.
19.	Coniston Old Man, Lancash.
20.	Coniston Lake, Lancashire.
21.	Hawkshead Moor, Lancash.
22.	Graythorte, Lancashire.
23.	Wernfell, Lancashire.
24.	Helvellyn, Cumberland.
25.	Striding Egde, Westmorel.
IV.
LOOKING WEST.
1.	Coniston Fells, Lancashire.
2.	Black Combe, Cumberland.
3.	Lingmire, Westmoreland.
4.	Blakerigg, Westmoreland.
5.	Deer Bells, Westmoreland.
6.	Langdale Pikes, Westmorel.
7.	Bow Fell, Westmoreland and
Cumberland.
8.	Wilbeck, Cumberland.
9.	Scawfell and Scawfell Pike,
Cumberland.
10.	Muncaster Fell, Cumberland.
11.	Great End, Cumberland.
12.	Great Gavel, Cumberland.
13.	Honiston Crag, Cumberland.
14.	Cat Bells, Cumberland.
15.	Grange Fell, Cumberland.
16.	Red Pike, Cumberland.
17.	Robinson, Cumberland.
18.	Grasmoor, Cumberland.
19.	Causey Pike, Cumberland.
20.	Vale of Newlands, Cumber!.
21.	Whiteless Pike, Cumberland.
22 Pillar, Cumberland.70
CHAPTER IX.
KESWICK TO BUTTERMERE ;—BORROWDALE;—
BOWDAR STONE; — HONISTER CRAG;—BUT-
TERMERE;—CRUMMOCK LAKE;—SCALE FORCE;
— KESKADALE	NEWLANDS.
3Iiles.	Miles.
5 Bowdar Stone ................................. 5
1	Rosthwaite .................................. 6
2	Seatoller ..................................  8
2	Honister Crag .............................. 10
2	Gatescarth ................................. 12
2	Buttermere ................................. 14
9	By Nevvlands	to Keswick ...................  23
The excursion from Keswick, through Borrowdale,
to Buttermere, must be accomplished either on
ponies or in a cart, as the road is too rough and pre-
cipitous to admit of any other mode of conveyance;
there is, however, a good carriage-road, w?hich tra-
verses the Vale of Newlands, from Keswick to But-
termere, a distance of nine miles, by which, those
whom so long a journey on horseback would fatigue,
may return to Keswick by any conveyance which theyCASTLE CRAG AND BOWDAR STONE. 71
may prefer, meeting them at Buttermere. The mere
ride, however, from Keswick, by Newlands to Butter-
mere, and back by the same road, will deprive the
tourist of all the attractive scenery of Borrowdale,
and the mountain-pass of Honister Crag. The road
from Keswick to Borrowdale, leads along Barrow-
side, on the Eastern shore of Derwentwater, by an
undulating, but not unpleasant road, passing Low-
dore; at a short distance from which, it first enters
upon the picturesque beauties of the Valley of Bor-
rowdale.
At the immediate entrance of Borrowdale is the
small hamlet of Grainge, at the back of which rises
a spiral and well-wooded eminence, called Castle
Crag. On the summit of this noble height are ves-
tiges of a fortification, whence the rock derives
its name. This fort is supposed to have been of
Roman construction, and was subsequently held by
the monks of Furness, in order to defend the entrance
to Borrowdale.
Opposite to the Castle Crag, on a lofty pinnacle of
rock, rests the Bowdar Stone.
“ A mass of rock, resembling as it lay,
A stranded ship, with keel upturn’d—that rests
Fearless of winds and waves. *”
This vast mass, which is sixty-two feet in length,
and thirty-six in perpendicular height, estimated to
Wordsworth.72
EAGLE CRAG.
contain 2300 solid feet, and to weigh 3971 tons, and
said to be the largest self-stone* in England, is yet
so poised on one of its edges that two persons on
opposite sides may shake hands through an aperture
beneath. The old road, through Borrowdale, led im-
mediately past the Bowdar Stone, but a more re-
cently formed and better way keeps to the level of
the river, and avoids the ascent of the hill on which
the huge stone stands.
Beyond the Bowdar Stone, Eagle Crag forms a
conspicuous object towards the South-East, and
another mile brings us to the little village of
Rosthwaite f. Keeping the straight road through
Rosthwaite, we approach Borrodaile Chapel: here the
plain branches out into three vallies—that of Stone-
thwaite to the left, and Seathwaite to the right; Bor-
rowdale forming the third. At this point we must
bend to the right, till, about two miles beyond Ros-
thwaite, we reach Seatoller, the residence of
Mr. Fisher, the principal statesman of Borrowdale.
Leaving Seatoller on the left, and passing through
a rustic gate, the road to Buttermere ascends a long
and steep hill on the Western side of the valley: from
this point there are some fine retrospective views of
Borrowdale, which increase in extent as we mount
gradually higher, till the summit of Helvellyn appears
* Sclfstone, a detached mass of rock, which has apparently no
connexion with the surrounding strata.
•f The accompanying view is taken from the road a little beyond
Rosthwaite.from near ftosthwaite.
frySTierwogd&S*







.\43mrj M3TJLSIMOH.
'Ztpj~7*?3~	'27&S' -yfcjT
Ttfszvspznj?
si/bcvAr&jg vyj;
&7?j_7 J&j:srruo_ErBUTTERMERE LAKE.
73
above the mountains of Watendlath ; a sudden turn
shuts this from our view, and the road becomes bare,
rugged, and monotonous, till, at the distance of two
miles from the commencement of the ascent at Sea-
toller, we come to the magnificent mountain-pass of
Honister Crag *, a dark and lofty mountain, which
raises its abrupt and rugged head to the height of
1700 feet above the Vale of Buttermere:—
“ Ever the hollow path twined on,
Beneath the steep bank and threat’ning stone,
An hundred men might hold the post
With hardihood against an hostt-”
From this point the road descends as abruptly as in
its rise, to the little farm of Gatescarth, whence a ride
of two miles, skirting the Northern shore of the lake,
brings us to the chapel of Buttermere, where a turn-
ing to the left leads to a small, but neat and comfort-
able inn.
JButtermere Lake is a small sheet of water, not ex-
* This mountain is celebrated for the superior quality of its blue
slate.
f Scott.
X The accompanying views are taken—that of Buttermere, from
the North-Western shore of the lake ; and that of Crummock, from
the South-East, near the point of embarkation from Buttermere Inn.
The history of Mary of Buttermere is so well known, and has
been so frequently detailed in guide-books, newspapers, &c., that
but little apology will be deemed necessary for the non-insertion of
a thrice-told tale, which may be learnt by the traveller from any
inhabitant of the vale, all of whom have it at their fingers’ ends. The
heroine of the tale is at present residing at Bassenthwaite.
E74
CRUMMOCK WATER.
ceeding a mile and a quarter in length, about half a
mile wide, and fifteen fathoms deep; but its chief
beauty consists in the bold and rocky mountains
which encompass it on every way, except towards the
North-West, where the valley opens into an extensive
and beautiful plain, in which are spread the blue
waters of Crummock.
Crummock Water is distant about three-quarters of
a mile from Buttermere, and is nearly three miles in
length, three-quarters of a mile in breadth, and
twenty-two fathoms deep ; it is situated between the
lofty mountains of Melbreak and Grasmoor, and con-
tains three or four small islands, which are, however,
too close to the shore to add any thing to its beauty.
Both of these lakes are well stocked with trout and
char; and near the foot of Crummock Water, at Scale
Hill, is a comfortable inn ; where, as well as at But-
termere, boats may be procured, in order to visit
Scale Force (a celebrated cataract on the Western
shore of Crummock Water), and also to view the
general scenery of the lake.
Scale Force is situated in a deep recess, about a
mile down the lake, on the Western shore, and nearly
three-quarters of a mile from the water’s side: this
is the deepest fall in the region of the lakes ; the water
making one clear leap of 153 feet from the top,
besides a smaller cascade below. This Force is ter-
rific when swollen by heavy rains, but at other times
the quantity of water is but small. As a cascade it is
not remarkable for beauty or grace, but the falling3uttermur&J{f0/s.
Ifa raster Cra^	The- Slay c& c/a
BUfTiaMElE 1LA1ME .
Tfiyfa Style-.
/S<1 /Wr.e
Zjndan Fu&.4pril.i$*l£)£. bySkenwod Jc33VT1
^EWjLAITJO) sRETURN TO KESWICK.
75
stream, shut in between two vast unbroken walls of
rock, the bright drops sparkling on the few small
trees which overhang the deep abyss, and the ever-
changing cloud of spray, together form a scene of
wild and picturesque effect.
From Buttermere, an agreeable ride of nine miles,
through the Vale of Newlands, brings us back again
to Keswick : the road leads up a long and steep hill,
from the top of which it again descends into the
Vale of Newlands. The upper part of this valley,
which lies under the mountain Robinson, although
often included in the general term Newlands, is
more properly denominated Keskadale*, and presents
nothing to the view but bare mountain-sides, sloping
into a narrow dell; two or three miles farther down,
where the landscape becomes more broken and diver-
sified, the Vale of Newlands, properly so called,
begins. From this point there are some beautiful
views of the Vale of Keswick, and the winding Der-
went, and the road finally joins the route from Kes-
wick to Cockermouth, at Portinscale f.
* It is from this point, near the Waterfall, called Robinson Fall,
the accompanying illustration is taken.
f Care must be taken, when about half a mile beyond the gate at
the foot of Rawling End, to follow the right-hand road, which leads
down a steep hill, and through a gate: the road to the left making
a circuit of two miles.76
CHAPTER X.
Excursion to Calder Bridge and Return.—Two Days’ journey.
First Day. borrowdale;—seathwaite ; —
STYE HEAD; — TARN;—WASDALE HEAD; —
WASTWATER ; — STRANDS ; — GOSFORTH ; —
CALDER BRIDGE;—CALDER ABBEY.
Second Day. ennerdale ; — lamplugh; —
LOWESWATER ; — SCALE-HILL INN ; — WHIN-
LATTER ;—KESWICK.
Miles. First Day.	Miles.
8	Seatoller............... 8
1	Seathwaite .»........... 9
3	Stye Head ............ 12
2	Wasdale Head ......... 14
6	Strands .............   20
4	Gosforth.............. 24
3	Calder Bridge......... 27
Miles. Second Day.		Miles.
7	Ennerdale Bridge ..	.... 7
3	Lamplugh 		.... 10
4	Loweswater 		.... 14
2	Scale Hill 		.... 16
13	By Whinlatter to | Keswick		l 29
Th e excursion from Keswick, by Wastwater to
Calder Bridge, returning by Loweswater and Enner-
dale to Keswick, cannot be accomplished in less than
two days, nor otherwise than on horseback : it is,
however, only the first part of the first day’s journey
which will at all incommode the tourist, on account
of rough and difficult roads.harff.
hards Se<zt.

&Lstl&JTM. Xeswudo.
S/add.OM' hasid/.
S7uddaw.
M1WE1TWATE1 and BAS SENTHWAITE LAKES,
from th.e Hoad to Waxen (Hath..

'STYE HEAD.
77
The route from Keswick to Seatoller* is the same
with that detailed in the former chapter, but, on
arriving at Seatoller, the tourist, instead of ascending
the hill to the right, as before, must cross the bridge,
and pass through the gate to the left; then, leaving
Seatoller on the right, a ride of a mile, along a deep
and secluded valley, brings him to Seathwaite, a
wretched looking village, at the foot of the lofty pass
of Stye Head.
Stye Head is a Slack, situated between the two
mountains, Scawfell and Great Gavel: its elevation
above the valley of Seathwaite is 1250 feet; and up
this steep and rugged summit the road now leads by
a narrow, but plainly marked track, a distance of
three miles, to the lone and desolate pool of Stye
Head Tarn. All the way, during the ascent of this
terrific eminence, we have fine and extensive views
of the vale below; and a stream, called Taylor’s Gill,
rushes down the mountain side from the Tarn, leaping
from rock to rock, and often forming a lofty cascade
to the right of the steep and winding paths. On the
* There is, however, another road by which the excursion may be
varied : this is, by proceeding from Keswick to Borrowdale, through
the Valley of Watendlath; this road leads by Ashness to Watend-
latb, whence a track descends to Rosthwaite : the route is easily
to be found, and affords a great variety of scenery, from a
point as yet but little visited, nor is the track much rougher than
that through Borrowdale. It is from a part of this road, just above
Lowdore, where the stream is crossed by a rude stone bridge, that
the accompanying sketch was taken; the small stream seen on the
left of the foreground is that of Lowdore.SCAWFELL PIKES.
78
hill to the right are the Wad mines, where the plum-
bago, or black lead, (here provincially termed Wad,)
is found ; these are the only mines of the kind in
England, and being very superior to any found in
foreign countries, the article has of course become a
monopoly, and the proprietors of the mines were
accordingly protected by an act of parliament, of
25th Geo. II, by which it was made felony “ to
break into any mine, or wood, or wad-hole, or black
chalk, commonly called blacklead, or to steal any from
thence:” And in the recital, it is said to be discovered
in one mountain, or ridge of hills, only, in this realm,
[meaning Eorrowdale], and that it hath been found
by experience to be for divers useful purposes, and
more particularly in the casting of bombs, shells,
round shot, cannon,” &c.
Stye Head Tarn is a lone and desolate lake, en-
closed by the bare and riven sides of Scawfell,
Great End, and Great Gavel. This is a good station
whence to commence the ascentof the Scawfell Pikes :
the least difficult way is round Great End, and past
Sprinkling Tarn; then cross over Great End and
Scawfell, to Scawfell Pikes. I do not think, how-
ever, that the tourist is repaid for the severe fatigue
encountered in the ascent of this mountain ; certainly
it is the highest summit in England, and the view is
wonderfully extensive, but every thing being so far
below the eye, the prospect is not at all agreeable,
nor is the beauty of the scene at all increased by theSTYE HEAD TAIOTWASTW A.TER.
79
bare and craggy summits which on every side imme-
diately surround him*.
From Stye Head Tarn, a road as steep, but in
somewhat better order than that by which we
ascended, leads down to the little hamlet of Wasdale
Head. In descending this road, we have our first
^iew of the dark and sullen Wastwater, and a tran-
sient glance of Mosedale, a valley lying on the right,
between the mountains of Kirkfell and Yewdale ;
and the termination of a descent of two miles from
the Tarn, finds us at the head of the fertile and pic-
turesque valley of Wasdale. The chief statesman*j- of
this valley is a Mr. Thomas Tyson, who holds a con-
siderable portion of the farming land. He is a right
merry gentleman, and a true Englishman; his hospi-
table door was never closed on the way-worn tra-
veller, and none who have ever toiled over the steep
of Stye Head, will fail to bear witness to the frank
and open welcome of Mr. Tyson, and the kindly
attention of his good and cheerful lady.
A ride of a mile and a half through the green
fields, and past the little chapel of Wasdale Head,
brings us to the border of the lake. Wastwater is
three miles in length, and three-quarters of a mile
* So little desirable, indeed, did I deem the ascent of this moun-
tain, that though the drawings were made from that, a$ from the
summits of Helvellyn, Skiddaw, &c., yet I preferred to insert in
their places some more interesting views of the various lakes.
■f' The term “ statesman” in the North of England, is synonymous
to that of yeoman in the South.80
WASTWATER.
wide, but it is the deepest of all the lakes, being-
forty-five fathoms in depth, and its surface is never
frozen. In scenery, Wastwater has but little variety,
the Southern shore being formed by the long and
monotonous range of the Screes, which sink their
precipitous and broken sides nearly perpendicularly
into the water. Towards the North, however, the
lofty heights of Lingmell, Scawfell, and Great Gavel,
form a grand and imposing boundary, beneath which
lie the green fields and smiling pastures of Wasdale.
This is the only lake in which the mountains sink, at
once, abrupt and sheer into the water; and the
whole character of the scene—the lofty mountain,
and the still blue lake, the rolling cloud, and the
deep dark shadow—is one of sullen magnificence.
“ Here gleam no lovely hues of hanging wood,
No spots of sunshine light its sullen side ;
For horror shaped the wild in wrathful mood,
And o’er the tempest heaved the mountain’s pride
About two miles down the lake is a guide post;
here the right-hand road (to Whitehaven) must be
followed, the other leading in a Westerly direction to
Ravenglass. We now gradually emerge from the
mountain scenery, and approach a pretty and well-
cultivated tract of land, which lies between the
mountains and the sea. This country, however,
which at any other time is picturesque and pleasing
appears tame to the tourist, who has just quitted the
* Wilson.ScaxvfelL .fiJc&s.
WAST-WATEII SCAWFElLPlKESo
from ttie road to Calder Bridge.
Th& Screws.
L7riia£ &ax'eZ
J.endff'fu Pub.%yriC15^3/>', iySJuzrwaad<£3.'CALDER BRIDGE.
81
strong-bold of wild, uncultivated nature. Six miles
from Wasdale Head is the Strands, a little hamlet,
situated at the foot of the^ofty mountain, Seatallion.
Here are two small but neat public-houses ; and
lienee, the road, which, though hilly, is even better
than could be looked for, passes over an extensive
moor, from the summit of which the open country,
bounded by the sea, is exposed to view. About four
miles from the Strands is Gosforth, a long and strag-
gling village, where the route, now increased into the
more becoming dimensions and appearance of an
excellent carriage road, and bending towards the
right, brings us, at the termination of the third mile,
to the little village of Calder Bridge, where one of the
two neat inns must form the boundary of the first day’s
journey.
But the tourist must, if there be yet sufficient day-
light remaining, again trudge forth in the evening, in
order to visit the venerable ruin of Calder Abbey;
or if he has not time, nor inclination for a further
wandering after so long and wearisome a day, the
Abbey can be visited before his departure on the
following morning. A delightful walk of three-
quarters of a mile from the inns, winding by the river
side, through the grounds of Capt. Irwin, brings him
to this ancient reminiscence of shaven crowns and
brown russelet. The ruins, which consist of four
large and a few smaller arches, together with a
range of cloisters, clustered with ivy, and over-
shadowed by a row of stately elms, stand in the
E 282
CALDER ABBEY.
grounds, and close to the house, of Capt. Irwin.
This Abbey, or rather the remains of this Abbey, are
more than seven centuries old, having been founded
for the Cistercian order of Monks, by Ranulph,
second Earl of Chester and Cumberland (a. d. 1134).
Of all its once princely pomp and pride, but a few
arches, and three tombstones, are the only remaining
monuments: of the rest of their history, or their fate,
two words will suffice to tell their fallen glory—
PRiETERIT iETAS.Zander	*/<?J 6 IryS/ienvood&Z*83
SECOND DAY.
RETURN TO KESWICK.
The road from Calder Bridge to Keswick turns oft
to the left, opposite to the entrance gate of Calder
Abbey ; then, taking the first turning to the right,
leads through two gates, at a little distance from the
second of which it divides into two branches;—of
these, that inclining to the left brings us, by a
gradual but continuous ascent, on to the bare bleak
height of Copeland Fells, an extensive and barren
moor, bounded, on the right, by the appropriate
accompaniment of Cold Fell, and, on the left, by the
equally uninviting slope of Dent Hill, and covered
with a scanty herbage, on which a few lean sheep are
puzzled how to live. The road leads for a consider-
able distance over this uncomfortable common, till,
about seven miles from Calder Bridge, we catch a
glimpse of Ennerdale Lake to our right.
This Lake, situated in the beautiful and secluded
valley of Ennerdale, is two miles and a half in length,
and three-quarters of a mile wide: its character is84
ENNERDALE—LOWES WATER.
that of serene and peaceful grandeur, and it is sur-
rounded on all sides by stern and lofty mountains.
Beyond the head of the lake is the valley of Giller-
thwaite, a narrow dell, shut in by a range of rugged
heights, between which it runs up to the foot of Great
Gavel; its western extremity agreeably diversified by
the green pastures and waving woods of How Hall.
The lake is seen from another and a better point
of view, after the tourist has passed the little hamlet
of Ennerdale Bridge*, whence the road, running
through the village of Lamplugh, brings us, at a dis-
tance of seven miles from Ennerdale, in sight of
Lowes water.
This pleasing little lake does not exceed a mile in
length, and about a quarter of a mile in breadth.
The finest scenery is at its foot, where it falls into
Crummock Water; and its general character is that
of sweet and placid retirement.
About a mile from Loweswater we come in sight
of Crummock Water, re-entering the mountainous
district as suddenly as, in receding from Wastwater,
we had quitted it: and two miles from Loweswater
we arrive at Scale Hill, where is a neat inn, which
forms a good resting place, distant from Calder
Bridge about sixteen miles.
At Scale Hill boats may be procured, for those
* Take care to keep the left-hand road after passing over the
bridge, and that to the right after passing Lamplugh Church and
the lane opposite.RETURN TO KESWICK.
85
tourists who may not as yet have seen the Vale of
Buttermere, to visit Scale Force, together with the
scenery of the Lakes of Crummock and Buttermere.
From Scale Hill, the return to Keswick may be
accomplished by either of two roads—the one leading
along the North-eastern shore of Crummock Water,
through the vallies of Buttermere, Keskadale, and
Newlands, to Keswick * ; the other, leaving Crum-
mock and Buttermere lakes on the right, traverses
the mountain-pass of Whinlatter. Of these, the
former will present more attractions to those tourists
who may not previously have had an opportunity of
seeing the beauties of Buttermere ; but the latter is
that which, in the due order of our prescribed route,
we must pursue.
Leaving Scale Hill the road leads by the lofty
mountains of Grasmoor and Whiteside; then, bend-
ing to the right, and passing through two little
streamlets, or splashes, winds beneath the towering
heights of Grisedaie, passing over a deep and rugged
ravine, up the steep mountain-pass of Whinlatter.
From the summit of this ascent the retrospective
view of the valley is surprisingly grand ; and from
this point the Vale of Keswick gradually develops
itself. Skiddaw and Saddleback first appear; then
the Lake of Bassenthwaite, with the winding stream
* Vide page 75.
E 386
RETURN TO KESWICK.
of the Derwent; till, from the top of a steep and
sudden declivity, the whole valley of Keswick is
once more opened to the delighted ken of the wea-
ried traveller.83*
CHAPTER XI.
DRIVE ROUND BASSENTHWAITE WATER;—BAS-
SEN TH WAITE;—OUSEBltlDGE -PEEL WYKE;—
KESWICK.
Miles.	Miles.
5	Bassenthwaite Sand-bed ...................... 5
4	Ouse Bridge ................................. 9
1	PeelWyke..................................   10
8	Keswick....................................  18
Bassenthwaite Lake, sometimes called Broad-
water, is four miles and a half in length, and nearly
a mile in breadth at its Northern extremity, but gra-
dually diminishing in width towards the Southern
end, where it is little more than a quarter of a mile
across.
This fine sheet of water is formed by the River
Derwent, which, issuing from Derwentwater, is here
arrested in its course, and expands into a beautiful
lake, bordered on the East by the vale of Bassen-
thwaite, and the many tops of the mighty Skiddaw;
and on the West, by the dark wood-clad heights of
Wythrop Brows. Leaving Keswick by Greta Bridge,
and turning towards the right, the tourist must first
proceed along the Eastern shore, by Crosthwaite to84*
OUSE BRIDGE.
Armathwaite; here a road, inclining to the left,
leads to Bradness, a small conical hill, whence there
is a fine general view of the lake. To the North
appear Ouse Bridge, and the rugged promontory of
Scareness boldly running out far into the clear blue
lake. On the East is the verdant vale of Bassen-
thwaite, running up to the foot of the vast Skiddaw,
who rears his azure summit to the clouds, and crowns
the scene with calm majestic dignity. Far to the
South is Wallow Crag, w7ith the broken tops and
barren mountains of Borrowdale, in fine perspective,
the point of Pike o’Stickle just peeping in the dis-
tance above their rugged outline; whilst the green
woods of Foe Park, and the bright top of Swinside,
lead the eye along the Western shore, to the deep
frowning range of Lord’s Seat and Wythrop Brows.
Regaining the high road, we proceed by Bassen-
thwaite Hall to Ouse Bridge, where the river, issuing
again from the lake, and rolling on its serpentine
course, is crossed by a neat stone bridge of three
arches. Here is a good inn, commanding some fine
prospects of the lake, and forming a good place for
rest and refreshment.
Passing over Ouse Bridge, and returning towards
Keswick, the ride is truly delightful : the road,
though good, is very uneven j now rising high above
the lake, now sinking again to its margin, and at
every succeeding rise, at each fresh bend of its twist-
ing course, some new scene breaks upon the eye—
some new beauty charms the wanderer.VIEW OF BASSE NTH WAITE.
85*
At Berk Withrop the view of the lake is particu-
larly pleasing ; far to the right and left the liquid mir-
ror reflects the deep blue canopy of heaven, and the
passing cloud ; whilst the lofty mountain, and the
verdant grove, are softened on its glassy bosom. The
opposite shore is broken by the bold promontories of
Scareness, Bowness, and Bradness, and, at a little
distance from the margin of the lake, the small white
church, and the few houses scattered in the vale,
enhance the rural interest of the scene. The dark
and gloomy Ullock closes the back-ground, with his
heath-clad sides; then Skiddaw appears beyond,
towering above his brother hills, in proud preemi-
nence.
“ Peace to thy empire, queen of calm desires !
Health crown thy hills, and plenty robe thy vales !
May thy groves wave, untouched by wasteful fires;
Nor commerce crowd thy lake with sordid sails * !”
* Cumberland.86*
CHAPTER XII.
ASCENT OF SKIDDAW.
Of all the English mountains, the ascent of Skiddaw
is the easiest, though the most tedious : the distance
from Keswick to the highest point is six miles, but
the rise is so gradual as to be readily surmountable
by ponies.
Many lovers of nature desire to view a sunrise from
Skiddaw ; and, for this purpose, commence the ascent
between the hours of twelve at night, and one in the
morning : the chances of a fine prospect at this early
hour, are, however, very uncertain, as the mountains
are often enveloped in a thick mist, which does not
clear away, till dissipated by the more advanced heat
of the sun.
Skiddaw is more unequal in temperature than any
of its brother hills ; the highest point being 1022 feet
above the level of the sea, and exposed to the full
violence of the West wind from the Irish Channel.SKIDDAW MAN.
87
Hence it often happens, that whilst some are faint-
ing with heat in the vale below, others are gather-
ing their wraps about them, to shield them from the
cold wind on the heights above ; and the tourist in his
ascent, often leaves summer in the valley, and finds
chill winter on the mountain top. The road from
Keswick to the foot of Skiddaw leads along the
Penrith road for about half a mile, turning to
the left, and crossing the Greta, by a narrow bridge,
just beyond the turnpike gate; hence, winding
behind the house of Mr. Calvert, at Greta Bank, it
skirts c‘ Skiddaw’s cub,” Latrigg, by a rough, but
not unpleasant, occupation road.
Leaving Latrigg, the track is but slightly marked,
but it may be readily known by a wall, at first on the
right hand, and subsequently on the left.
At the distance of little more than a mile from the
commencement of the ascent, the wall bends to the
right; and here the traveller must leave it, his path
leading more directly up the hill to the left; another
mile brings us, after passing over an extensive plain,
to a beaten track, by which, leaving a double-pointed
hill on the left, and surmounting a steep acclivity of
500 feet, we at length arrive at the long-wished-for
object of our hopes, Skiddaw Man.
This road is remarkably gradual, and easy of
ascent: the distance from the foot (at the bridge)
being five miles and a half; and the first three miles
surmounting but one-third of the journey. On the88
VIEW FROM SKIDDAW.
way, the views of the Yale of Keswick, Derwent-
water, and the Borrowdale mountains, are delightful,
gradually lessening, and diminishing in magnitude,
as you advance : the entire prospect becomes en-
larged and extended ; mountain after mountain
rising into view, further and further in the distance,
till the circle is complete, and the whole is developed
in magnificent array.
About half way up the mountain, the Solway Frith,
and the mountains of Scotland, first break in upon
the view ; and from the summit, the prospect, in this
direction, is remarkably fine. In the lowlands are
seen the towns of Workington, Maryport, Allonby,
and Cockermouth ; whilst between the Far Man and
the Scotish border is an extensive and well-culti-
vated tract of country, of which the city of Carlisle
forms the centre. Beyond the Solway Frith is
Mount CrifFel, in Kircudbriglitshire; East of which
is the estuary of the river Nith, on which stands the
town of Dumfries. To the left of Mount CrifFel is
the small island of Hasten; West of which is the
mouth of the Dee, opening into the Bay of Wigton ;
while still farther to the left of this again, the Bay of
Glenluce, Barrow Head, and the Mull of Galloway,
are sometimes visible.
It is neither my wish, nor yet accordant with the
plan of this little work, to enumerate the various
beautiful objects which this lofty elevation affords
to the scrutinizing tourist; suffice it to say, that theVIEW FROM SKIDDAW.
89
prospect, though not more extensive than that from
the summit of Helvellyn, includes a greater number
of interesting objects, and will amply repay the
adventurous traveller for the slight trouble incurred
in its attainment.no
REFERENCE TO THE PLATES.
FOUR VIEWS FROM THE SUMMIT OF SKIDDAW.
I.
LOOKING NORTH.
1.	Grange Fells, Scotland.
2.	Criffell Hills, Scotland.
3.	Scotch Mountains, Ben Lo-
mond and Ben Nevis.
4.	Solway Frith.
5.	Moffart Hills, Scotland.
6.	Cheviot Hills, Northumber-
land.
7.	The Lowlands, Cumberland.
8.	Colbeck Fells, Cumberland.
9.	Far point of Skiddaw, Cum-
berland.
II.
LOOKING EAST.
1.	Cheviot Hills, Northumber-
land.
2.	Hartside, Cumberland.
3.	High Pike, Cumberland.
4.	Vale of Penrith, Cumberland.
5.	Cross Fell, Cumberland.
6.	Long Brow, Cumberland.
7.	Saddleback, Cumberland.
8.	Black Fell, Cumberland.
9.	Place Fell, Westmoreland.
10.	High Street, Westmoreland*
11.	Helvellyn, Cumberland.
12.	Ingleborough, Yorkshire.
13.	Lonscale Fell, Cumberland.
14.	Skiddaw Forest, Cumberl.
15.	Coldbeck Fells,Cumbeidand.VIEW JFIOM SlIBBlW
looking North.
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in.
LOOKING SOUTH.
1.	Helvellyn, Cumberland.
2.	Vaieof St. John, Cumberland
3.	Castle Rock, Vale of St. John
4.	The Rigg, Cumberland.
5.	Wythburn, Cumberland.
6.	Shoulthwaite Fell, Cumber-
land.
7.	Ainside Fells, Westmoreland
8.	Morecambe Bay.
9.	Cartmel Fells, Lancashire.
10.	Wythburn Fells,Cumberland
11.	Castle Rigg Fells, Cumber-
land.
12.	The Stake, Cumberland and
Westmoreland.
13.	Pike o’Stickle, Westmore-
land.
14.	Coniston Old Man, Lan-
cashire.
15.	Weatherlam, Lancashire.
16.	Bow Fell, Cumberland and
Westmoreland.
17.	Glaramara, Cumberland.
18.	Eskhawse, Cumberland.
19.	Great End, Cumberland.
20.	Scawfell Pikes, Cumberland.
21.	Great Gavel, Cumberland.
22.	Birker Fell, Cumberland.
23.	Hindscarth, Cumberland.
24.	Newland’s Vale, Cumber-
land.
25.	Robinson, Cumberland.
26.	Causey Pike, Cumberland.
27.	Goldscarp, Cumberland.
28.	Cat-bells, Cumberland.
29.	Maiden Moor, Cumberland.
30.	Stye Head, Cumberland.
31.	Borrowdale, Cumberland.
32.	Castle Crag, Cumberland.
33.	Grange Fell, Cumberland.
34.	Derwentwater.
35.	St. Herbert’s Isle, Derwent-
water.
36.	Ramp’s Holm, Derwent-
water.
37.	Lord’s Isle, Derwentwater.
38.	Vicar’s Isle, Derwentwater.
39.	Swinside, Cumberland.
40.	Keswick, Cumberland.
41.	Naddle Fell, Cumberland.
42.	Latrigg, Cumberland.
43.	Skiddaw, Little Man, Cum-
berland.
44.	Haycock, Cumberland.92
IV.
LOOKING WEST.
1.	Fleetworth, Cumberland.
2.	Kirk Fell, Cumberland.
3.	Yewbarrow, Cumberland.
4.	Hen-coombe, Cumberland.
5.	Pillar, Cumberland.
6.	Green Gavel, Cumberland.
7.	Red Pike, Cumberland.
8.	High Stile, Cumberland.
9 Robinson, Cumberland.
10.	Newland’s Vale, Cumberl.
11.	Causey Pike, Cumberland.
12.	Grasmoor, Cumberland.
13.	Whiteless Pike, Cumberland.
14.	Grisedale Pike, Cumberland
15.	Thornthwaite, Cumberland
16.	Lord’s Seat, Cumberland.
17.	Kirk Fell, Cumberland.
18.	Blake Fell, Cumberland.
19.	Dent, Cumberland.
20.	Isle of Man.
21.	Low Lands, Cumberland.
22.	Cockermouth, Cumberland.
23.	Wythrop, Cumberland.
24.	Bassenthwaite Lake, Cum
berland.
25.	Car Sleddam, Cumberland.
\'VIE'W FROM SKIBBAW,
looking West.
Jfanda/uPiLiilpril&fy&Jtf. b\ *. 'Jierw0ffd& Of93
CHAPTER XIII
KESWICK TO PENRITH;—PENRITH MONUMENTS
OF ANTIQUITY.
The new road from Keswick to Penrith, instead of
passing, as formerly, over the steep aud rugged accli-
vity of Castlerigg, winds round its base, leaving the
old road, about a mile from Keswick.
The chief, and indeed only object of interest, in
this dull and wearisome ride, is the Vale of St.John,
of which there is a fine view, a little beyond the de-
viation of the road from its original line, in an oppo-
site direction to that which we have already de-
scribed. Here the celebrated Castle Rock forms a
conspicuous feature ; and from this point, the min-
strel of the North has drawn his description of the
Vale, when, in the Bridal of Triermain, he represents
Miles.
Miles.
.	4
4 To Threlkeld
Penruddock .
3§ Stainton ....
2| Penrith......94
PENRITH.
King Arthur and De Vaux as having reached the
scene of their perilous enterprise :—
“ With toil the king his way pursued,
By lonely Threlkeld’s waste and wood,
Till on his course obliquely shone,
The narrow valley of St. John.
Piled in by many a lofty hill,
The narrow dell lay smooth and still.
And down its verdant bosom led,
A winding brooklet found its bed.
But, midmost of the vale, a mound
Arose, with airy turrets crowned,
Buttress and rampire’s circling bound,
And mighty keep and tower;
Seemed some primeval giant’s hand,
The castle’s massive walls had planned,
A ponderous bulwark to withstand,
Ambitious Nimrod’s power.”
From hence, the dreary road traverses a wild and
desolate heath, called Hutton Moor : with the never-
ending range of Helvellyn, and the bare conical hill
of Mell Fell on the right; and the dark and gloomy
saddleback to the left; till at length passing through
the long straggling village of Penruddock, and
leaving Grey stoke Castle, the seat of Henry Howard,
Esq., to the left, we descend into the fertile valley
and delightful town of Penrith.
Penrith * (provincially termed Peerith) is a neat
and clean town, built principally of red free-stone,
and containing about 6100 inhabitants; and is plea-
* The Bereda or Vereda of the Romans.PENRITH.
95
santly situated in a fruitful and healthy valley, watered
by the rivers Earnout and Lowther, which unite their
streams about a mile from the town. The inns, of
which the principal are the Crown Hotel and the
George, are excellent; and it has a good market on
Tuesday.
The chief objects of interest at Penrith are the
venerable monuments of British antiquity with which
the town and its immediate neighbourhood abound.
Of these, those most worthy of notice in the town
are, the Giant’s Grave in the Churchyard, the Castle,
and the Beacon ; in the environs are, Brougham
Castle, the Giant’s Cave, the Druidical Temple at
Little Salkeld, Mayburgh, and King Arthur’s Round
Table : the two latter are seen on the road between
Penrith and Lowther Castle, and will be mentioned
in their proper places; but of the others, I shall at
once proceed to give some account.
Penrith, according to Horsley, was built out of the
ruins of Ala Petriana, or Old Penrith; but Ala
Petriana, or Camlic Fort, is five miles distant from
the present town, and I think that the derivation of
its name from a British source, Pen Rhudd (the red-
hill), is far more conclusive. A third derivation, how-
ever, and with at least equal claims to probability,
has been proposed—namely, from Pen, the head, and
Rkyd, a part of Rhyddaw, to make free. In sup-
port of this etymology it is affirmed, that, during the
Roman government of Britain, the inhabitants of
this town were emancipated by their foreign masters,96
PENRITH.
on account of some especial service, or act of fidelity :
this, in their own language, would be Penrhydd,
which might afterwards have been softened down to
the present name of Penrith ; however this may be,
it is a remarkable fact, that Penrith enjoyed the benefit
of a royal franchise, without the encumbrance of a
charter, throughout the feudal ages, and is to this day
governed by the steward of the honours, and a free
jury. The honours, of both town and castle, at pre-
sent belong to his Grace the Duke of Portland.
A free school was founded in the town by Queen
Elizabeth, in compliance with the prayer of a peti-
tion from the inhabitants. The church is vicarial, and
in the gift of the Bishop of Carlisle, to whose see it
was annexed by Henry I. The present building is
a handsome modern structure, having been rebuilt in
the year 1721, with the exception of the tower, which
is of a more remote and uncertain date.
The Giant’s Grave, in the churchyard, is a rude
monument, consisting of two stone pillars, ten feet in
height, and bearing some marks of decayed carving.
These pillars are placed at a distance of thirteen feet
apart, East and West, and four other large stones, of a
semicircular form, are fixed in the ground, two on
each side of the grave. This is supposed to have
been the last resting-place of Sir Ewan, or Hugh
Cassarius, a man of gigantic stature (his body ex-
tending, according to some accounts, from one pillar
to the other), who benefited Penrith and its neigh-
bourhood, by destroying the wild beasts, with whichPENRITH CASTLE.
97
they were infested. This grave was opened by a
Mr. Turner some time between the years 1582
and 1590, when the bones of a man of extraordinary
stature, together with a broad-sword,were discovered.
The Castle, which crowns a hill on the Western side
of the town, at present consists merely of a large
square building, and several stone arches, which were
most probably the dungeons ; there is likewise a sub-
terraneous way, which leads from the Castle, a dis-
tance of 307 yards, to the kitchen floor of a house in
the town. The founder of this Castle is unknown,
but prior to the year 1237 it must have been incon-
siderable, if indeed it existed it all; for when, in that
year, Penrith was annexed to Scotland, as a part of
the marriage-portion given by King Henry the Third,
with his daughter Margaret, to William, King of
Scots, it was stipulated that the ground should be
given “ where no castles were.” It was first put
into a tenable state of defence by Richard the Third,
who, when Duke of Glo’ster, resided here for the
space of five years, as sheriff of Cumberland : it was
finally dismantled by the cautious policy of Crom-
well, and granted by William the Third, together
with the honours of the town, and other considerable
property in Westmoreland, to William, Duke of
Portland, in the possession of whose family and de-
scendants it remains at the present day. The
Beacon is on the summit of a hill, about a mile to the
North-west of the town, and was of infinite service
during the time of the Border wars, giving notice of98
BROUGHAM CASTLE.
the approach of the marauders, who made frequent
and devastating excursions into Cumberland, as far
as Penrith ; more especially in the nineteenth year of
Edward the Third, when 26,000 Scots entered Cum-
berland, and laid waste all before them.
From this Beacon there is a beautiful and exten-
sive prospect: Criffell, the Cheviot, and Queens-
berry Hills in Scotland, are, on a clear day, distinctly
visible, though nearly eighty miles distant, and
nearer in the foreground, are the city of Carlisle, and
the small White House at Gretna Green. In the
West, Helvellyn, and St. Sunday Crag, rear their
rugged heads, whilst Ullswater is seen, like a clear
mirror, at their feet. On the South, the mountains
from Stainmoor, in Westmoreland, to Ingleborough,
in Yorkshire, rise in varied tints; and towards
the East, the vast ridge of Cross Fell extends to a
length of thirty miles. The less distant parts of
the country are beautifully diversified with hill
and dale, interspersed with villages and elegant
country-seats, varied by the heath-covered mountain,
and the richly-cultivated valley—with the barren moor,
and the green waving woodland.
Brougham Castle occupies the site of the ancient
Roman station of Brovoniacum, on the Westmoreland
side of the river Eamont, to the right of the road from
Penrith to Appleby; and on a part of the Roman
road called the Maidenway. This Castle, like most
of the Northern strong holds, is square, its sides
facing the cardinal points; defended on the East,BROUGHAM CASTLE.
99
South, and West, by a wide moat, and on the North
by the river. No place can exhibit such striking re-
mains of that gloomy strength for which these re-
liques of the olden time are so remarkable: winding,
but beautifully-turned staircases in the walls, so nar-
row as to admit but one person at a time, arched
vaults, fragments of massive window-sills, and walls
of marvellous thickness, give us a lively idea of those
moving times of danger and jealousy, when the
Englishman’s house might truly be called his castle.
The etymology of the word Brougham has been
long and frequently disputed ; Nicholson* and Byrne
deriving it from the ancient word Burg-ham, signi-
fying castle-town ; whilst Hutchinson^ supposes it
to be a corruption of the old Roman appellation,
Brovoniacum.
This Castle is supposed to have been the first ever
erected in Westmoreland, but the earliest authenti-
cated account of it is in the reign of William the
Conqueror, who gave it, together with a considerable
estate, and the barony of Westmoreland, to Hugh
de Abrinois, his nephew: by Hugh de Abrinois and
his successors it was held till the year 1171, when it
was forfeited by Hugh de Morville, one of the four
Knights who murdered Thomas & Beckett;};. King
John afterwards granted this, together with Ap-
pleby Castle, to Robert de Vipont, son of Maud, the
* Hist, and Antiq. of Westmoreland and Cumberland,
f Hist, of Cumberland.
X Guthrie.100
giant’s cave.
daughter of Hugh de Morville; but Robert, the
grandson of this Robert, having espoused the cause
of Montford, Earl of Leicester, his estates were con-
fiscated, and with them Brougham Castle of course
reverted to the Crown : the King, however, restored
them to his daughters, from whom the Castle de-
scended, by marriage, to the noble families of the
Cliffords and Tuftons, and it is now in the possession
of the Earl of Thanet*.
The Giant’s Cave, or Isis Parlis, is a vast cavern in
the bank of the river Eamont, about two miles South
from Penrith: here, says most veracious tradition,
lived one Torquin, a man of gigantic stature, addicted
to every species of rapine and brutality, and a terror
to the surrounding neighbourhood. In process of
time, however, (continues the same worthy authority),
the ravages of this Mr. Torquin reached the “ righte
worthye” ears of the good King Arthur, who sent
Sir Launcelot du Lac to bring him to court. Tor-
quin declined the honour of a presentation, but in-
vited Sir Launcelot to a bout at single combat; and
* It is not sufficiently to be lamented that this castle, like so many
other fine reliques of antiquity in the North, is suffered to fall to
decay, uncared for, unregretted, unheeded ; whilst the ravages of
time are aided, rather than retarded, by their lords and masters.
The dungeons, the keep, and, in fact, every part of this fine ruin,
which can afford any defence from the inclemency of the weather, are
converted ([horresco referens) into cow-sheds ! whilst the once-hal-
lowed precincts of the chapel, the ancient hall, and the grass-grown
court, are alike open and exposed to the devastations of these un-
hallowed intruders. Oh ! Genius of Taste ! can such things be ?LONG MEG AND HER DAUGHTERS. 101
the Knight accepting the challenge, a fierce conflict
ensued, in which Torquin fell, and was buried in
Penrith churchyard, where his grave is called, cc untoe
this daye,” the Giant’s Grave* * * *. Six miles to the
North of Penrith, at Little Salkeld, is a very large
Druidical Temple, better known by the sobriquet
of “ Long Meg and her Daughters.” This little fa-
mily consists of sixty-seven upright blocks of stone,
forming a circle of 350 yards in circumference ; whilst
near the entrance stands their mama, Long Meg, a
huge pillar, eighteen feet in height.
In Whinfield Park, on the road between Penrith
* The foregoing facts (?) I have collected from an old ballad,
which I have before me, and of which the first verse says,—
“ When Arthur first in courte beganne, and was a worthie kingge,
,f By force of arms great vict’ries wanne, and conquests home did
bringge;
“ Then unto England strait he came, with fiftye goode and able
“ Knyghts, that reverted unto him, and sate at his round table.”
with many more rhymes, describing the fierce and dubious conflict,
during which
-----------------------“ Ho ! ho ! quoth Torquin, ho !
“ One of us two must end our lives, before that we do go.”
It is worthy of remark, that Shakspeare puts the first line of this
ballad into the mouth of the facetious FalstafF,—-
Fal.—“ When Arthur first in court *****
“ And was a worthy King------How now, Mistress Doll ?”
Second Part Henry IF. Act II. Sc. 4.
whence it would appear to have been a well-known ballad of his day.102	COUNTESS’PILLAR—HARTSHORN TREE.
and Appleby, are the Countess’ Pillar and the Harts-
horn Tree ; the former of these is a hewn stone pil-
lar, twelve feet in height, and on the Northern side
of the capital is the following inscription:—
“ This pillar was erected, a.d. 1656, by the Right
“ Honourable Anne, Countess of Pembroke, and sole
“ heir of the Right Honourable George, Earl of
“ Cumberland, for a memorial of her last parting, in
“ this place, with her good and pious mother, the
“ Right Honourable Margaret, Countess Dowager of
“ Cumberland, tbe 2d of April, 1616. In memory
“ whereof she has left an annuity of £4, to be dis-
“ tributed to the poor within the parish of Brougham,
“ every 2d day of April for ever, upon the stone
u hereby. Laus Deo.”
The Hartshorn Tree is a large and venerable oak,
attached to which is a tradition, also confirmed by
the Countess of Pembroke, in her Memoirs, of a hart
which was run by a single greyhound, from this place
to Red Kirk in Scotland (distant forty miles, by the
most direct road) and back : the hart, on his return,
leaped the wall near this tree ; but the dog, worn out
with fatigue, was unable to follow, and died in the
effort; the deer, equally distressed, could run no fur-
ther ; and they were found by the hunters, the dog
lying dead on one side of the wall, and the deer
on the other. This celebrated chace was run in the
year 1333 or 1334, at the time that Edward Baliol,
King of Scotland, was on a hunting visit to Robert
de Clifford, at Brougham Castle. The horns of theHARTSHORN TREE.
103
deer were nailed on the Hartshorn Tree, in comme-
moration of this unequalled chapter in the annals of
sporting, and the name of the famous hound, “ faith-
ful to death,” was recorded in the following rude
distich :—
“ Hercules killed Hart of Greece,
“ And Hart of Greece killed Hercules.”
All of these curious monuments of antiquity (of
which I have, however, been able to give only such
sligbtand succinct accounts as the circumscribed limits
of this little work will allow,) are within the circuit of
a short and pleasant ride, in the immediate environs
of Penrith, and situated in a delightful and pic-
turesque country : they will amply repay the inqui-
sitive traveller for the time bestowed on a visit to
them, whilst to those who have more leisure, the fore-
going brief accounts may serve to form the ground-
work of a more minute inquiry and research.104
CHAPTER XIV.
PENRITH TO LOWTHER CASTLE, AND HAW ES-
WATER; — ANTIQUITIES, ARTHUR’S ROUND
TABLE ; —MAYBURGH ; — BROUGHAM HALL ;—
LOWTHER CASTLE ; —HAWESWATER ; — MAR-
DALE GREEN.
Miles.	Miles.
5	Penrith to Askham and Lowther.......... 5
1	Helton ................................ 6
2	Butterswick ........................... 8
1	Bampton Grange .........„............. 9
2	Haweswater ........................... 11
3	Mar dale Green ....................... 14
Haweswater may be visited from several points:
it is a pleasant day’s ride from Penrith, Lowther Castle
being visited on the way ; or it may be taken in the
way to Shap, or from Shap, and return to Kendal;
or it may be reached from Kendal, by a wild, but pic-
turesque road, leading through the romantic vale of
Long Sleddale : there is also a route from Pooley
Bridge, which, passing over Moor Devack, a part of
the ridge of Swarth Fell, comes into the road fromArthur’s round table.
105
Penrith, between Askham and Butterswick : our
route, however, will lead us from Penrith by Lowther
Castle, a pleasant ride of eleven miles, to the foot of
Haweswater : it is, however, impossible to vary the
return, from whichever point the tourist may set out.
The road from Penrith to Lowther Castle crosses
the rivers Eamont and Lowther, a little above their
junction : between the two bridges, immediately ad-
joining to the road on the right, is a curious relique
of British antiquity, which bears the name of “ Ar-
thur’s Round Table.” This, consisting of a circular
space twenty-nine yards in diameter, and surrounded
by a broad ditch and rampart of earth, is by some
supposed to have been the sceneof the knightly feats
so much in vogue during the glorious days of the
far-famed Arthur, and his
“-----------------------fiftye goode and able
“ Knyghts, that reverted unto him, and sate at his rouud table.”
At a short distance from the Round Table is May-
burgh, or Maybrough, an elevated mound, on the
summit of which is a large circular enclosure, one
hundred yards in diameter, surrounded by a broad
heap of loose stones and pebbles : this rampart
is about four and a half yards in height, and its ex-
ternal bound comprehends nearly five acres : towards
the East there is an entrance twenty yards in width,
and near the centre of the area stands one vast red
stone, upwards of twelve feet in height. Some years
since there were four other stones, none of them,
f 2306
BROUGHAM HALL.
however, so large as this one; two of these were
placed as door-posts at the entrance, and two in the
amphitheatre ; but they were all removed some time
since by the farmer*.
The opinions as to the origin and design of this
singular structure are various : Mr. Pennant, pre-
suming the ancient name to have been Breingwin,
has declared it to have been “ a supreme consistory
of Druidical administration, as tlie British name
imports.” If again, as others say, the present ap-
pellation is a modern corruption of the ancient Saxon
Maybirion, or Maybir, it will then signify a place of
study and contemplation. Nothing, however, is
known with certainty respecting it; it may be, as
some assert, a temple of the Druids ; or, as others
have declared it, a fortress of British originf.
Crossing the river Eamont, at Eamont Bridge, we
re-enter Westmoreland ; and on crossing the Lowther
shortly after, Brougham Hall, the seat of Lord
Brougham and Vaux, appears to the left. This edi-
fice, which has been erected at various periods, bore
the name of “ The Bird’s Nest,” given to it by its
former owners, the family of the Birds, till dignified
by the present owner with its more recent and high-
* The circumstance of one of the men employed in this work of
spoliation, having hanged himself, and the other becoming lunatic,
save fair cause to vulgar superstition to impute these misfortunes
to the sacrilege committed by the men, in defacing what was sup-
posed to be a place of such eminent sanctity.—Clurke.
f Might it not have been “ the terrible circle of Loda, with the
massy stone of his power,” so often mentioned by Ossian?LOWTHER CASTLE.
107
sounding title ; it is, however, still better known in
the neighbourhood by its more old-established, and
quaint appellation, of u the Nest.”
Five miles from Penrith is Lowther Castle, the
princely residence of the Earl of Lonsdale : here this
excellent and estimable nobleman lives, honoured
and beloved, in the midst of his tenantry. Here are
no roofless cottages,—no ragged oppressed tenants,
with which the empty and deserted seats of absentee
Landlords are surrounded,—but Lowther Castle is
fortified by a grateful and happy peasantry, offering
up one universal prayer for their lord’s health and
happiness.
Lowther Castle is a modern structure, having been
raised in the year 1808, by the present Earl, on the
site of Lowther Hall, which had been partly consumed
by fire, nearly a century ago. The present building
was erected by Sir Robert Smirke, and the effect of
the ancient castle is well preserved : the entrance is
through an arched gateway into an entrance court,
surrounded by a lofty embattled wall. The North
front is 420 feet in length, and its numerous towers
are battlemented, and pierced with loop-holes. The
terrace is 500 feet long, and 100 feet in width ; the
Southern front varies from the Northern, being in the
Gothic Cathedral style, with pointed windows, pinna-
cles, niches, and cloisters ; and the central tower is
supported by massive clustered columns. The inte-
rior of the castle is fitted up w7ith great taste and108	HAWESWATER.—THWAITE FORCE.
splendour, and contains several pictures by Tinto-
retto, Guido, and Titian. From the Castle the view
is very extensive and beautiful, looking down into the
vale of Penrith, bounded by the distant ridge of Cross
Fell, and some of the Scotch mountains ; and the
Park exhibits an agreeable variety of grassy lawns
and stately woods.
Leaving Lowther Castle and Park, by a different
road from that by which we entered it, we soon come
to the little village of Askham : here, turning to the
left, we proceed by Helton and Butterswick, to
Bampton, having, all the way, some fine and varied
views of the Castle and demesne of Lowther, to the
left; whilst, to the right, are the bluff, wild mountains
of Martindale; in the front of which, the bare crags
of Knipe Scarr are most conspicuous.
Passing through the beautiful vale of Bampton,
and keeping to the right-hand road, after crossing
the Bridge, a ride of two miles brings us in sight of
Hawes water.
Haweswater is but a small lake, being little more
than three miles long, and half a mile in breadth :
towards the middle, two promontories, advancing into
the lake, as in Thirlmere, till they almost meet, re-
duce it to a strait, and divide it into two sheets of
water, each of which forms a distinct and pleasing
view.
On the North-Western side, just above the little
village of Measand, is a small cataract, called ThwaiteMARDALE GREEN.
109
Force : from this point there is a fine view of both
extremities of the lake* ; but that of the head is un-
questionably the finest:—enclosed by steep and craggy
mountains, at the foot of which, a few green fields
impart a pleasing variety to the scene: the view is
shut in by the lofty tops of High Street, whilst to the
left, thickly covered with wood, is the Weird Hill of
Wallow Crag.-f
Towards the Southern end of the lake, the valley
widens considerably, and the view, although it loses
much of its bold character, is still very beautiful.
Many tourists are contented with a ride of about
two miles along the Eastern shore of the lake, and
from thence return to Grange ; but an excursion up
the valley, at the head of the lake, as far as Mardale
Green, will present such a varied beauty of scenery
to the traveller, as will amply repay him for the little
additional time it will take up.
At the head of the lake stands the small Chapel of
Mardale, overshadowed by dark yews and spreading
* From this point, looking Northward, the accompanying sketch
is taken.
f Tradition says, that the spirit of Sir James Lowther for some
time haunted these quiet vales, to the great disturbance of the in-
habitants, who were frequently much annoyed by the untimely wan-
derings of the miserly “ Jamie Lawther,” as he was familiarly
termed. In their dilemma they applied to the right reverend Vicar
of Bampton, who, after a severe tussling, finally succeeded, by
dint of superior book-laming, in lodging the refractory ghost in
the dim depths of Wallow Crag.110
VALLEY OF MARDALE.
sycamores *; beyond which all is wild and terrific
desolation: the narrow glen is strewn with huge
masses of rock, which the force of the raging ele-
ments has torn from the heights above, whilst the
craggy tops of Harter Fell and High Street surmount
all, fraught with seeming destruction to the adven-
turous traveller, till, on proceeding further and turn-
ing short to the right, the valley of Mardale opens to
the view.
Mardale is a beautiful and fertile valley, lying at
the head of Haweswater, between Chapel Hill on the
West, and Branstree on the East. Towards the head
the mountains are steep and craggy, and on looking
in the direction of Haweswater, in front of Kidsay
Pike, is a prominent and lofty rock, called Castle
Crag. From Mardale, a valley called Riggindale
branches out to the foot of High Street; and from the
Green, a road leads, by a rough and difficult mountain
track, to Long Sleddale, or Kentmere.
The White Bull at Mardale Green is a neat house,
where refreshment may be procured ; and the return
to Penrith must be unavoidably by the same road,
keeping however the straight route through Askham,
instead of turning off at Lowther Park as before.
* Of all the trees of the forest, the sycamore seems the native of
this country: where every other lord of the woods declines and dies,
there the sycamore flourishes; on the bare mountain side, or in the
deep dell, where nothing else can bud or blow, the sycamore alike
sinks his deep root, and rears his spreading crest.ROUTE TO POOLEY BRIDGE.
Ill
The carriage road to Pooley Bridge turns off to the
left at Askham, whence a pleasant ride of three miles
leads to the foot of TJllswater*.
* There is also a road, which (as may be seen by the map), turns
off to the left between Askham and Butterswick ; this route is de-
cidedly shorter, but it is passable only by ponies or pedestrians, and
is the same with that before mentioned, as leading over Moor
Devack.112
CHAPTER XV.
PENRITH TO PATTERDALE ;—POOLEY BRIDGE;—
ULLSWATER ;— DUNMALLET ; — SAIL UP THE
LAKE;—GOWBARROW PARKS;—AIREY FORCE;
—GLEN COIN ;—UPPER REACH OF THE LAKE;—
PATTERDALE HALL;—PATTERDALE.
Miles.	Miles.
5^ Pooley Bridge ............................... 5§
9§ Patterdale................................... 15
The road from Penrith to Pooley Bridge, a distance
of five miles and a half, winds along the banks of the
Eamont, through a cheerful and well-cultivated
valley, abounding in the transition and variety of
beauty for which this country is so remarkable, and
affording, at almost every bend and turn of the road,
some new and interesting scene.
The Sun, at Pooley Bridge, is a small, but neat and
comfortable inn, where the tourist may procure a
boat for the purpose of sailing up the lake, to Patter-
dale ; the beauties of Ullswater, as of Windermere,
being seen to far greater perfection on its surfaceULLSWATER.
113
than from its banks. There is, however, a good car-
riage-road, which winds along the Western shore, and
is well adapted for those who prefer to voyage terra
firmci; and whence are several points of view
but little inferior to those from the lake itself; but
even to these I would recommend to take a boat from
Patterdale, down the lake, as far as Lyulph’s Tower
and Airey Force, or otherwise they will lose that
most interesting and beautiful, though fantastic view,
on Ullswater—Glencoin, from Place Fell.
Ulls water is, next to Windermere, the largest of the
English lakes, being nine miles in length, half a mile
in an average breadth, and in many parts from twenty
to five-and-thirty fathoms deep. At the head of the
lake are three rocky islets, called Cherry Holm, Wall
Holm, and House Holm : the two former of these are
not worthy of any particular notice, but the last is a
good station for viewing the surrounding scenery.
Ullswater is divided into three reaches or points of
view, (each of which has the appearance of a distinct
lake,) by the mountains of Hallen Fell and Helvellyn,
which, causing it to diverge, the first to the West, and
the latter to the South-east, render it not unlike in
form to the letter Z.
The fish found in this lake, are, trout, eels, char,
perch, skellies, and a fish peculiar to this lake and
Buttermere (where, however, there are but few,) called
the grey trout. This fish, which is to be found chiefly
in the deep water below the island of House Holm,
is, in form, similar to other trout, but growing to a114
ULLSWATER.
greater size, weighing sometimes from thirty to forty
pounds : one has been taken of the enormous weight
of fifty-six pounds, but the ordinary size is from ten
to twenty pounds.
The scenery of Ullswater varies considerably ; the
lower reach, or division, of the lake, which always
should be, and generally is, seen first, is very tame ;
but the second reach, in itself beautiful, is rendered
doubly interesting by the unexpected change in the
landscape—the barren rocky sides of Place Fell, and
the well-wooded heights of Gowbarrow Park, rising
abruptly from the lake; whilst the vast Helvellyn,
pushing forward one rocky root *, quite to the water’s
edge, rears his lofty head in majesty above the little
hills which nestle round him. A further advance
towards the head of the lake gradually discloses the
yet more magnificent scenery of the upper reach,
broken by its rocky islets, and shut in by the frown-
ing summits of High Street, Birk Fell, Place Fell,
and Helvellyn.
Embarking at Pooley Bridge, the lower reach
opens immediately into a magnificent sheet of water,
which is of itself no inconsiderable lake, being three
miles in length, and rather more than three-quarters
of a mile in breadth : the shores, though not particu-
larly bold, are well fringed with wood, and ornamented
with several elegant villas, some of which, standing on
elevated situations, command extensive views of the
St. Sunday Crag.from Pooley Bridge^.
JPii2/fidpr/2J5 tlfiS&iy SJunvood. Sc^ fZorui^fb.GOWBARROW PARKS.
115
lower reach of the lake and the surrounding coun-
try, whilst others are built nearer to the lake, with
ornamental lawns running down to the water’s
edge *.
Dunmallet is a beautiful conical hill, covered with
well-grown wood, and situated at the foot of the lake
on its Western shore: this hill is supposed to derive
its name (sometimes written Dunmaillard), from
Dun mail, the last King of Cumberland ; and on its
summit there was once a monastery of Benedictines.
Advancing up the lake, the scene becomes gra-
dually more wild and romantic—the pointed crags
grow yet more rough and barren, and the impending
heights more dark and terrible in beauty-—till, on
passing the delightful villas of Watermillock and
Halsteads, and shooting round the promontory, we
burst at once upon the bright and beauteous prospect
of the second reach.
Gowbarrow Parks, which form a prominent feature
to the right of the landscape, were once deer-parks,
belonging to the Duke of Norfolk, by whom they
were left to Henry Howard, Esq. of Greystoke.
* Amongst these latter are, Rampsbeck Lodge (about half way-
down the lower reach to the right), the beautiful residence of
— Stagg, Esq.; Beauthorn, the seat of J. Scott, Esq., higher up the
lake ; and, yet higher, Watermillock, the residence of the Rev.
Mr. Tinkler. On the Eastern bank of the lower reach is Eusemere,
the seat of J. C. Bristow, Esq. Near the entrance to the second reach
from Pooley Bridge, to the right, is Halstead’s, the seat of J. Mar-
shall, Esq., and in the upper reach is Patterdale Hall, the residence
of W. Marshall, Esq.	,116 LYULPH’S TOWER—AIREY FORCE.
They are a range of rough and rugged grounds, com-
prising about 1800 acres, stretching along a concave
bend of the mountain for about four miles, and ter-
minating at the delightful valley of Glencoin : they*
are well-wooded, and interspersed with several vene-
rable oaks and thorns, whilst a thick covering of fern,
intermixed with the grass, adds not a little to their
picturesque appearance.
In the midst of these woods is Lyulph’s Tower, a
castellated retreat, built by the Earl of Surrey. This
tower derives its name from an ancient astrologer,
who, according to tradition, inhabited the spot, and
from whom the name of the lake, Lyulph’s Water,
afterwards shortened to UJIswater, is said to be de-
rived.
At the boat-house near Lyulph’s Tower, the tourist
must disembark, and walk up to the Tower, whence a
footpath leads to Airey Force, one of the finest
cascades in the North.
In order to view this beautiful cataract to ad-
vantage, you should descend into the deep glen
through which the water flows: from this point a
clear unbroken stream is seen to leave the rock, in a
bright arch of liquid crystal, and plunge, in two leaps,
a perpendicular height of forty yards, into a dark
and deep abyss; whence, after some time, it again
issues, and pursues its course, calmly and quietly,
towards the lake. Two rustic bridges cross the
stream, the one above, the other below the fall: from
the former of these the spectator enjoys a very novel'tybarraw
SECOND REACH. UHLSWATER; fromfLACE FE1L.
by ShtTwaacCJcu*GLENC01N—PATTERDALE.
117
and interesting sight, in looking down upon the clear
water, plunging and foaming in its headlong leap,
and sending up, from its lowest depths, a bright and
ever-changing cloud of spray #.
Re-embarking on the lake, we soon come in sight
of the beautiful valley of Glencoin, running up
between the abrupt and rugged crags of Gowbarrow
and Stybarrow, which, clothed in varied wood, and
backed by the mighty Helvellyn, render this a most
striking and picturesque retreat. Down the midst
of this valley flows the streamlet of Glencoin Beck,
which, rising in Glencoin Dale, falls, after forming
the boundary between the counties of Westmoreland
and Cumberland, into the lake at the foot of Gow-
barrow.
Proceeding up the lake, and entering on the upper
Reach, the landscape increases still in grandeur and
magnificence. The otherwise smooth surface of this
Reach is varied and broken by its rough and rocky
islets, in passing which the charming vale of Glen-
ridding first opens to the view ; then Patterdale un-
folds itself—the fertile, the romantic, the far-famed
Patrick’s Dalef, with its ancient Hall, its humble
Church, its green fields sloping to the water’s edge,
and its proud and lofty mountains.
* On the opposite shore of the lake, at Birk Fell, is Sandwich
Force, a pretty waterfall, but whose attractions are eclipsed by the
superior charms of Airy Force.
+ The original appellation of this valley was Patrick's Dale, after-
wards corrupted to Patterdale. See the quotation at the end of this
chapter.118
PATTERDALE.
Approaching the head of the lake, to the right is
Patterdale Hall, once the seat of Mr. Mounsey*,
whose ancestors have for ages gloried in the title of
“ Kings of Patterdale an honour won for them by
the gallantry of a member of their family, who, with
a handful of peasants, attacked and defeated a nu-
merous band of Scottish marauders, at the pass of
Stybarrow.
The point of disembarkation is on the banks of a
streamlet, which flows from Brother’s Water through
Patterdale into the lake ;—from hence a walk across
the fields, of about a quarter of a mile, leads to the
King’s Arms, in Patterdale, a comfortable inn,
whence the tourist may either proceed directly on to
Ambleside,or(as I would rather recommend) spending
the evening at Patterdale, move on in the following
morning, according to the line of route which I have
already laid down, by Ambleside to Coniston, and
Ulverston.
Ullswater is the most magnificent of the English
Lakes; Windermere is more rich, but wants its infi-
nite variety; Derwentwater is grand, but it is a
grand epitome of Ullswater; Grasmere is a scene
of sweet and calm seclusion, but this is the strong
hold of nature. To conclude in the words of the
poetf :—
* Patterdale Hall is now the property of W. Marshall, Esq. Deep-
dale Hall: up the valley, about two miles from the lake, is the resi-
dence of Mr. Mounsey.
•f Cumberland.lUFFEffi. IvEACH , UlLILSWATEm
XondarhPlLb.byShenvffffdkCPPATTERDALE.
119
“ Delicious Grasmere’s calm retreat,
And stately Windermere I greet,
And Keswick’s sweet fantastic vale;
But let her Naiads yield to thee,
And lowly bend the subject knee,
Imperial lake of Patrick’s Dale!
For neither Scottish Lomond’s pride,
Nor smooth Killarney’s silver tide,
Nor aught that learned Poussin drew,
Or dashing Rosa flung upon my view,
Shall shake thy sovereign, undisturbed right.
Great scene of wonder and sublime delight.”120
CHAPTER XVI.
PATTERDALE TO ULVERSTON ;—BROTHERSWA-
TER ;—KIRKSTONE ;—AMBLESIDE ;—CONISTON
WATERHEAD; — EXCURSION ON CONISTON
WATER ;—ULVERSTON.
Miles.	Miles*	Miles.	Miles.
3 Kirkstone Foot		.. 3	5 Borwick Ground ....	. 15
3 Top of Kirkstone ...	.. G	3 Coniston Waterhead.	. 18
4 Ambleside		.. 10	14 Ulverston 		. 32
The road from Patterdale to Ambleside leads, for a
distance of three miles, along a pleasant valley at the
foot of Dodd Fell, passing the small, but picturesque
lake of Broad or Brotherswater; so called from two
Brothers, who were drowned in it, during the winter
of 1785, by the falling in of the ice.
Three miles from Patterdale the road becomes very
steep, rising 900 feet above the vale : this is the
steepest carriage-road in the region of the Lakes, and
leads up Kirkstone, the loftiest of the mountain-ridge
of Scandale. The perpendicular and rugged sides of
the mountain come abruptly down to the road, leav-
ing just sufficient space for the bed of a small rivulet,CONISTON WATERHEAD.
121
which leaps from rock to rock down the mountain,
till it adds its tributary stream to the little lake of
Brotherswater. A ride of three miles from the com-
mencement of this steep ascent brings the traveller
to the highest top of Kirkstone Pass ; whence is a
beautiful bird’s-eye view of Windermere, and the
more Southern portion of the Lake district.
The road leading down the other side of Kirkstone
is even more steep than the ascent; winding down
a depth of 1300 feet, in a distance of four miles, to
the vale and village of Ambleside.
The route from Ambleside to Coniston Waterhead
follows the road from Ambleside to Hawkshead, till
about four miles from Ambleside, when it turns to
the right, over a barren and exposed plain, lying at
the foot of Oxenfell: proceeding over this heath,
(which towards the Southern end bears the name of
Ha wkshead Moor, and, at the Northern, is called
Borwick Ground,) we soon come in sight of the
pretty little lake of Esthwaite Water, and the neat
market-town of Hawkshead. At the meeting of two
roads at the extremity of the Moor, that to the right
must be followed ; and another turn to the right,
(where there is a guide-post,) brings us by a steep
and sudden declivity to the Inn at Coniston Water-
head*.
The ride from Coniston Waterhead to Ulverston,
a distance of fourteen miles, is rendered delightful
* For an account of Coniston Lake, see page 35.
G122
ROUTE TO ULVERSTON.
by the various and ever-changing beauties of the
landscape. At first, the road leads by the dark Lake
of Coniston, and the lofty overhanging tops of the Old
Man, and Coniston Fells : to these succeed the undu-
lating and well-cultivated hills and lowlands of Fur-
ness, bounded by the calm blue waters of More-
cambe Bay; and a pleasant ride of seven miles and
a half from the foot of Coniston Lake, through a rich
and ever-varying country, brings us to the pleasant
little town of Ulverston,123
CHAPTER XVII.
ULVERSTON ; — FURNESS ABBEY ; — CONISHEAD
PRIORY ;—ULVERSTON, OVER SANDS, TO LAN-
CASTER ;—CONCLUSION.
Ulverston to Furness Abbey .......... 7 Miles.
Ulverston to Conishead Priory ....... 2 Miles.
Ulverston, over Sands, to Lancaster • • 22 Miles.
Ulverston, more popularly pronounced Owstony
is a neat and cheerful-looking town, containing about
4800 inhabitants, and may be considered as the me-
tropolis of Furness.
It has a quay and a small pier, and is approachable
at high water by vessels of 150 tons. Its chief trade
is in iron ore; pig and bar iron; limestone; oats,
barley, and beans; and it has a market on Thurs-
day. The principal inns are the Sun and the Bra-
dyll Arms.
Two miles from Ulverston is Conishead Priory*,
the seat of Major Brady 11. This delightful retreat
is well worthy of a visit, and some idea of its singu-
* Here was formerly an hospital, and priory of Black Canons,
built by Gabriel Pennington, in the reign of Henry the Second.124
FURNESS ABBEY.
lar beauty may be formed from its undisputed enjoy-
ment of the title of the “ Paradise of Furness.”
The road from Ulverston to Furness Abbey leads
through Dalton, a neatly-built, but old-fashioned
town, five miles from Ulverston. About a mile
from Dalton, a lane turns off' from the high road to
the left, into a narrow dell, which has received the
ominous cognomen of “ The Glen of Deadly Night
Shade*!” and at the extremity of this vale stand
the venerable ruins of Furness Abbey.
Of this interesting relic, by some esteemed the
most perfect and beautiful specimen of ancient mo-
nastic splendour at present existing in the kingdom,
my limits will allow me to give only a very brief
and succinct account. 1 must therefore confine my-
self to historical notice alone, and leave it to the
reader to fill up the blank of description, when he
shall have been an eye-witness to the surpassing
beauty of this interesting monument of fallen gran-
deur.
The Abbey of Furness was founded (A. D. 1127)
by Stephen, then Earl of Montaigne, but afterwards
King of England. “ It was peopled,” says Mr. West,
“ from the Monastery of Savigny in Normandy, and
dedicated to St. Mary. In ancient writings it is
styled ‘ Saint Maryes of Furness’ The Monks were
of the order of Savigny, and their dress was grey
cloth, but on receiving St. Bernard’s form, they
* The original name was Bekangesgill, which signifies “the valley
of the nightshade.”RETURN TO LANCASTER.
125
changed from grey to white, and became Cister-
cians, and such they remained till the dissolution of
the monasteries.” At that eventful period Furness
shared the general wreck. On the ninth day of
April, 1531, it was surrendered by the Abbot
Roger and the Monks into the hands of Henry the
Eighth, and was shortlyafter wards dismantled and
destroyed.
The journey from Ulverston to Lancaster may,
for variety, be accomplished over the Sands : expe-
rienced guides are stationed at the rivers to direct
travellers to the best ford ; and provided the journey
be undertaken at the proper time, there is not the
slightest danger. The distance by this route from
Ulverston to Lancaster is twenty-two miles • ten
of which are over the Sands, The views are exten-
sive and picturesque, and the novelty of a journey of
ten miles on a bed of sand adds not a little to the
interest.
There is, however, another road, which makes the
circuit of the bay, and is better adapted for those
who have the smallest fear of entrusting themselves
to the treacherous sands. This road joins that from
Lancaster to Kendal, at Leven’s Bridge, whence,
passing through Milnthorpe, we arrive, by the route
which I have already described *, once more at our
original starting-post, Lancaster; which completes
the Tour of the English Lakes, and, for the present
at least, concludes the Tablets of an Itinerant.
* Chap. ii. page 15.AN
ITINERARY
OF THE
SEVERAL ROADS, TOWNS, VILLAGES, AND OTHER
OBJECTS WORTHY OF NOTICE,
NOT INCLUDED IN THE PRECEDING CHAPTERS.
1836.CONTENTS
No. of Miles.	Page
30 Lancaster to Kendal, by Kirkby Lonsdale ••••	129
21f	Lancaster to Kendal, by Burton ............. 132
21	Lancaster, over Sands, to Ulverston • ••<.... 133
17	Ulverston to Bowness, by Newby Bridge.......	135
24	Ulverston to Ambleside, by Coniston Waterhead	137
22	Kendal to Haweswater, by Shap............. 138
13^	Kendal to Ambleside ........................ 139
10	Ambleside to Ullswater.................... 141
24	Ambleside to Eskdale and Wasdale.......... 142
25	Whitehaven to Cockermoutb and Scalebill	••••	144
27	Whitehaven to Keswick ....................... 145
21	Workington to Keswick ....................... 148
18	Keswick to Pooley Bridge .................... 149
15	Keswick to Patterdale..................... 150
18	Carlisle to Penrith -..................... 151
26	Penrith to Kendal......................... 154
15	Haweswater to Kendal, by Long Sleddale	•	•	• •	156129
LANCASTER TO KENDAL,
BY KIRKBY LONSDALE.
Miles.	Miies.
5	Caton • •	• *........ 5
2	Claughton............ 7
2	Hornby	........... 9
2	Melling	.......... 11
Miles.	Miles.
2	Turstall ............ 13
2	Burrow .............. 15
2	Kirkby Lonsdale ••	17
13	Kendal ............. 30
Lancaster is the capital town of the County Pala-
tine of Lancaster. (For a further account of the
Castle, &c. see Chap. II.)
The principal manufactures of Lancaster are of
mahogany, sailcloth, cordage, cotton goods, &c.: it
is connected with the principal towns of the county
by a canal ninety miles in length, which is carried
over the Lune, by a fine aqueduct of five arches,
about a mile from the town. Fly packet-boats are
drawn along this canal by horses, at the rate of eight
or'nine miles an hour, and are a cheap and pleasant
mode of conveyance. The population of Lancaster
is 12,650 : it has markets on Wednesday and Satur-
G 2130	LANCASTER TO KENDAL,
day ; and the principal inns are the King’s Arms and
the Royal Oak.
Three miles from Lancaster, to the right, is Quern-
more Park, the seat of Mrs. Gibson. At Caton, on
the right, is Grapeyard Hall, T. Edmondson, Esq.
One mile and a half beyond Claughton, to the
right, is West End, S. Hill, Esq.
On an eminence to the right of Hornby is Hornby
Castle ; and on the left Hornby Hall, the seat of
J. Murray, Esq,
At Melling, on the right, is Melling Hall, W. G.
Bell, Esq. ; beyond the town, on the right, the Crow
Trees, R. Remmington, Esq. ; one mile further, on
the right, Wennington Hall, the Misses Salisbury ;
and Cautsfield-house, R. Tatham, Esq. : and half a
mile before entering Tunstall, to the right, is Thur-
land Castle, R. T. North, Esq. : at Burrow, on the
right, is Burrow Hall, Mrs. Smith : about a mile be-
yond the town, on the right, Summerfield, T. Ta-
tham, Esq.: half a mile from Kirkby Lonsdale, we
cross the Lune, on a very ancient, lofty, and narrow
bridge of three arches, which are of a very singular
structure, and beautifully ribbed.
Kirkby Lonsdale is a small but remarkably neat
town, delightfully situated on the Western bank of
the Lune. The churchyard is celebrated for the
beautiful views which it affords of the valley. The
population of the town is about 1700: it has* a
market on Thursday; and the principal inns are the
Rose and Crown, and the Green Dragon.BY KIRKBY LONSDALE.
131
Half a mile from Kirkby Lonsdale, on the right,
Underlay Hall, the seat of A. Nowell, Esq.: half a
mile further also, on the right, Casterton Hall,
W. W. C. Wilson, Esq.
Kendal. For an account of Kendal, see Chap. III.132
LANCASTER TO KENDAL
BY BURTON.
Miles.
Miles. Miles.
Miles.
lOf Burton • • •
4f Crooklands
£ Endmoor •
lOf	2| Barrow’s Green
15^	3 Kendal..........
16
The first part of this route, as far as the separation
of the roads, eight miles from Lancaster, will be
found fully detailed in Chap. II.
Burton is a small market-town in Westmoreland,
half a mile beyond the boundary which divides the
counties of Westmoreland and Lancashire. The po-
pulation is 740; the market-day, Tuesday ; and the
principal inns, the King’s Arms, and the Royal Oak.
Leaving Burton, on the right are Church-bank,
J. Williams, Esq. ; and Curwen Woods, T. Cotton,
Esq.
Half a mile from Endmoor, on the left, is Old
Hall, the seat of---Vincent, Esq.
Kendal,—see Chap. III.133
LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON.
OVER SANDS.
Miles.	Miles.	Miles.		Miles.
West Bank 		... 3g	I4	Flookburgh 		
! Lancaster Sands ...	... 3|	3 4-	Cack 		
9 Kent’s Bank		... 12|	l 4	Leven Sands .....	
1 Lower Allsth waite...	.. 13f	5	Ulverston 			 21
Turn off from the Milnthorpe road to the left, two
miles and a quarter from Lancaster.
Lancaster Sands.—The shores of Morecambe Eay
are left dry, by the ebbing of the tide, to the extent
of several miles from the land. These Sands it is
customary to traverse from Lancaster to Ulverston,
this route being fifteen miles shorter than that making
the circuit of the bay by Milnthorpe. The principal
danger is in crossing the rivers Keer and Kent,
which run over the Sands towards the sea: at these
points, guides, appointed by the Duchy of Lancaster,
are stationed to direct travellers how to proceed with
safety. The guide at the river Keer is on foot, as
the river is very shallow ; but at the Kent the guide
is on horseback, the stream being considerably wider
and deeper. These Sands can only be crossed when the134 LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON, OVER SANDS.
tide is out, the track being covered at high water from
twelve to nineteen feet deep. A coach used to pass
over them between Lancaster and LTlverston; but on
account of the increasing danger it was discontinued,
and the present conveyance, making the circuit of the
more “ slow but sure” road on terra jirma, has re-
ceived the sobriquet of the Round-about.
Two miles to the right of Kent’s Bank is Blawith
Cottage, T. H. Maude, Esq., and one mile further
to the right, Castlehead, R. Wright, Esq. ; half a mile
to the right of Cark, is Holkar Hall, the seat of the
Earl of Burlington.
Leven Sands.—The estuary of the river Leven is
three miles in width, and the Sands are left dry, with
the exception of the channel, by which the united
waters of the rivers Crake and Leven flow into the
sea. At the river, as on the Lancaster Sands, a guide
on horseback is stationed, to direct travellers to the
safest ford ; a necessary precaution, as the frequent
shifting of the channel renders the passage very uncer-
tain. Chapel Island is a small island below the ford,
where are the ruins of a chapel formerly belonging to
Furness Abbey.
Ulverston,—see Chap. XVII.135
ULVERSTON TO BOWNESS,
BY NEWBY BRIDGE.
Miles.	Miles.	Miles.	Miles.
3 Green-Odd			 3	1 Newby Bridge ....		 8
3 Low-Wood			 6	8 Bowness		
1 Backbarrow ..		 7		
At Green-odd is	a bridge	over the united streams of	
the rivers Crake and Leven.
Half a mile from Green-odd, on the left, is Penny
Bridge, J. P. Machell, Esq. ; and half a mile before
you come to Low-Wood, on the left, is Hollow-Oak,
the residence of Miss Machell. At Backbarrow,
cross the river Leven : here, to the right, are Back-
back iron-works, Messrs. Harrison, Ainslie, and Co.,
and a cotton factory, belonging to Messrs. Ainsworth,
Catterall, and Co.
At Newby Bridge is a good inn ; and from hence
the road leads for eight miles along the borders of
Windermere to Bowness. At Newby Bridge, on
the right, is the seat of J. Machell, Esq.; one mile
further to the left are Fell-foot, the residence of J.
Starkie, Esq., and Landing, J. Harrison, Esq.; one136
ULVERSTON TO BOWNESS.
mile further on to the left, Townhead, W. Townley,
Esq.; three miles from Newby Bridge, Gill-head,
J. Poole, Esq.
Two miles before you come to Bowness, on the
left, is Storrs Hall, J. Bolton, Esq.; and one mile
further, Bellfield, A. H. Thomson, Esq., and Ferry-
Green, R. Greaves, Esq.
For Bo wness,—see Chap. III.137
ULVERSTON TO AMBLESIDE,
BY CONISTON WATERHEAD.
Miles.	Miles.
6	Lowick Bridge............................... 6
2	Nibthvvaite ................................ 8
8	Coniston Waterhead ......................... 16
3	Borwick Ground.............................. 19
5	Ambleside................................... 24
Lowick Bridge, thrown across the Crake, which
flows out of Coniston water. One mile on the UI-
verston side of the bridge, to the left, is Lowick Hall,
now a farm-house; and about one mile before you
come to Nibthwaite, on the left, are the iron works
of Messrs. Harrison, Ainslie, and Co. A quarter of
a mile beyond Nibthwaite, on the left, Water Park,
Benson Harrison, Esq. Coniston Waterhead and
Lake,—see Chap. IV.
One mile and a half before entering Ambleside, on
the right, is Brathay Hall, — Redmayne, Esq. Half
a mile further, on the left, Howsley Cottage, Mrs*
Freeman; on the right, Croft Lodge, J. Branckers,
Esq.
Ambleside,—see Chap. IV.138
KENDAL TO HA WES WATER.
BY SHAP.
Miles.	Miles.
85 High-Borrow Bridge.....................
Shap...................:.............. 16
4 Bampton................................... 20
2 Foot of Haweswater ......................   22
From Shap, a road to the left leads to Bampton,
whence a ride of two miles terminates at the foot of
Haweswater. For Shap, see page 154. For
Haweswater, see chap. NIV. Having viewed Hawes-
water and Mardale, the return from Bampton may be
either to Kendal, twenty miles ; to Penrith, ten miles;
or to Pooley Bridge, eight miles.139
KENDAL TO AMBLESIDE.
Miles.	Miles.
5	Staveley............... 5
lngs Chapel ............6j
2	Orest Head ............. 8|
Miles.	Miles.
1£ Troutbeck	Bridge.... 10
2 Low-wood	Ian ...... 12
Ambleside	........ 13£
This is a hilly and rather rough road, leading through
a wild and uncultivated country. At Orest Head,
the first view of Windermere is obtained from the
brow of the hill. At Orest Head: on the ri^ht,
Orest Head, John Braithwaite, Esq.; on the left,
Birthwaite, George Gardner, Esq. Proceeding to-
wards Ambleside, on the right, Elleray, Professor
Wilson ; the Wood, Miss Watson; St. Catherine’s,
the Earl of Bradford. Troutbeck Bridge is a rude
edifice, thrown over the stream, which runs into the
lake, from the valley of Troutbeck, which, from its
picturesque beauties, is well worthy a visit.
At Troutbeck Bridge : two miles to the right, the
Howe, John Wilson, Esq.; a little further towards
Ambleside, on the left, Calgarth Park, R. L. Watson,
Esq.; half a mile to the right, Briaryclose, Captain
Greaves.140
KENDAL TO AMBLESIDE.
Half a mile beyond Low-wood Inn, are, Waterside,
Thomas Jackson, Esq., and Waterhead, William
Newton Esq.
Ambleside (see page 36). In or near the town,
Belle Vue, Miss Dowling; the Cottage, H. T. Lut-
widge, Esq.; the Oaks, F North, Esq.; Fox Gill,
M rs. Luff; Green Bank, B. Harrison, Esq.; Gale
House, E. Pedder, Esq.; Covey Cottage, R. Par-
tridge, Esq. ; Broad Lands, Rev. J. Davies; Hill
Top, T. Carr, Esq.; Croft Lodge, J. Brankers, Esq.;
Rothay Bank, Mrs.Claude; Oak Bank, Mrs. Carle-
ton ; Brathay Hall, — Redmayne, Esq.141
AMBLESIDE TO ULLSWATER.
Miles.	Miles.
4	Top of Kirkstone ............... 4
3	Kirkstone Foot.................  7
3	Patterdale .................... 10
10	Pooley Bridge.................. 20
A description of this road will be found, by re-
versing the order of Chapters XV. and XVI.142
AMBLESIDE to ESKDALE and WASDALE.
Miles.	Miles.
3	Skelwith Bridge ...... 3
lg Colwith ............ \\
2£	Fell Foot ............ 7
2	TopofWrynose.........	9
2	Cockley Beck ........ 11
Miles.	Miles.
4	Dawson	Ground........ 15
3|	King of	Prussia......	18§
3	Stanton	Bridge........21§
2g Strands, Nether Was-
dale	............. 24
This excursion, which is, however, not often per-
formed, should be undertaken on horseback, or on
foot, or it may, with some little difficulty, be accom-
plished in a cart. The road leads through Little
Langdale, and past Little Langdale Tarn, as detailed
in Chapter V., to the second gate, mentioned in that
chapter; when it turns to the left, and follows the
old packhorse road, over the mountains Wrynose and
Hard Knot. On the top of Wrynose, nine miles
from Ambleside, we pass from Lancashire into West-
moreland, at the three County Stones of Lancashire,
Westmoreland, and Cumberland ; and two miles fur-
ther, at Cockley Beck, from Westmoreland we enter
Cumberland. From Cockley Beck we descend into
the Valley of Eskdale, down which the river Esk windsAMBLESIDE TO ESKDALE AND WASDAEE. 143
its serpentine course. About one mile and a half
down the valley, is a public-house, formerly called the
Woolpack, but now better known by the name of
Dawsou Ground. From the hamlet of Bout, a faintly
marked track leads to the right over Burnmoor to
Wasdale Head ; but the straight road should be
followed to Santon Bridge, whence a road, turning
off to the right, leads to the Strands, Nether Was-
dale (see Chap. X.). From the Strands, the tourist
may either proceed on to Calder Bridge, (see
Chap. X.), or return over Stye Head, through Bor-
rowdale to Keswick.116
WHITEHAVEN TO KESWICK.
another near the entrance to the inner harbour ; and
a third at the extremity of the new West pier. A
further improvement is in progress—an extensive
pier being already in a forward state of erection, on
the Northern side of the harbour.
The town contains three Churches, viz. St.
Nicholas, the Holy Trinity, and St. James’s. There
are also a Scotch Church, several Dissenting Meeting-
Houses, and a Theatre. It has also no less than
six Ship-building Yards, three Roperies, and an
extensive Earthenware Manufactory. Steam-packets
ply regularly twice a week between this town and
Liverpool. The population of the town is about
15,750: it enjoys the privilege of sending one
member to Parliament. The market-days are
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Its principal
Inns are the Black Lion, the Golden Lion, and the
Globe.
Near Moresby are—Rose Hill, the seat of M.
Hartley, Esq. ; Roseneath, Mrs. Solomon ; and
Richmond Hill, Mrs. Wheelwright. Half a mile
from Distington is Prospect, the residence of H.
Jefferson, Esq.; and half a mile on the Whitehaven
side of Winscales, is Gilganon, J. R. Walker, Esq.
Four miles beyond Little Clifton is the Hill, J.
Wilson, Esq.
Cockennouth is a borough town, situated on an
emiuence at the confluence of the rivers Cocker and
Derwent. At the point where these unite are the
remains of a Castle, which was built in the reign ofWHITEHAVEN TO KESWICK.
147
William the Conqueror, by Waltheof, first Lord of
Allendale. During the civil wars, a.d. 1648, it was
garrisoned by the king’s troops ; and being taken
after an obstinate siege, was burnt. It at present
belongs to the Earl of Egremont, who takes his
title of Baron from this town.
Cockermouth contains about 4550 inhabitants, and
sends two members to Parliament. Its market-day
is Monday. The principal Inns are the Globe and
the Sun.
Near Cockermouth is Derwent Bridge End,
Captain Senhouse; near Papcastle, the Seats of
Major Skelton, and T. Knight, Esq.; near Bride-
kirk, Dovenby Hall, T. L. B. Dykes, Esq.; Wood
Hall, J. S. Fisher, Esq.; Tallentire Hall, W.
Browne, Esq.; and Isel Hall, W. Wybergh, Esq.
For Keswick, see Chap. VII.148
WORKINGTON TO KESWICK.
3	Little Clifton............................ 3
5	Cockermouth............................... 8
2^ Embleton ................................ IO5
6^	Thornthwaite ............................ 17
4	Keswick.................................. 21
Workington is a sea-port town of Cumberland,
situated on the Irish Channel, at the mouth of the
river Derwent. It has a good harbour, and a con-
siderable trade in coals, chiefly for the collieries of
H. Curwen, Esq. of Workington Hall. A steam-
packet plies regularly to Liverpool once a week. It
has a good market on Wednesday. The population
is about 6,500. The principal inns are, the Green
Dragon, the New Crown, and the King’s Arms.
Two miles from Workington is Clifton House, the
seat of R. Watts, Esq.: one mile further, Clifton
Lodge, J. Watson, Esq.; and four miles from Work-
ington the road joins that leading from Whitehaven
to Keswick.149
KESWICK TO POOLEY BRIDGE.
Miles.	Miles.
4	Threlkeld................................... 4
7§ Penruddock ............................... 11^
5	Leaves	the	Penrith Road.................... 12
6	Pooley	Bridge............................... 18
Proceed along the road from Keswick to Penrith,
(as detailed in Chap. XIII. page 93). Leave the
Penrith road half a mile from Penruddock, and
twelve miles from Keswick : three miles from this is
Dacre Castle, belonging to ----Hasell, Esq. of
Dalemain, but formerly the property of the Dacre
family.
Three miles from Dacre Castle is Pooley Bridge,
a village on the banks of the Eamont, at the foot of
Ullswater;—(see page 112 ) The Sun, at Poolev
Bridge, is a neat inn, where boats may be procured
for the Lake.150
KESWICK TO PATTERDALE.
The nearest route from Keswick to Ullswater is a
bridle-road, passable only to equestrians and pedes-
trians ; which, turning off from the Penrith road to
the right, a little beyond the second mile-stone,
crosses the vale of Wanthwaite ; and passing over an
exposed mountain-side to Matterdale and Gowbor-
row Park, brings the traveller to the banks of Ulls-
water, four miles from Patterdale, six from Pooley
Bridge, and eleven from Keswick.151
CARLISLE TO PENRITH.
Miles.	Miles.
Harraby .............. li
1 Carlton —............
4|	Low Hesket.......... 7£
High Hesket.......... 8|
Miles.	Miles.
4£ Plurapton.............. 13
\ Salkeld	Gate .......... 13^
\\ Penrith................ 18
Carlisle, the capital town of the county of Cum-
berland, and a Bishop’s see, is an ancient city, situ-
ated at the confluence of the rivers Eden, Petterell,
and Caldew, and within eight miles of the Scottish
frontier. Carlisle was a Roman station, and is
within a quarter of a mile of the great Roman wall:
by the ancient Britons it was called Caer Luel: the
Romans gave it the name of Luguballum, or Lugu-
vallum; and the Saxons termed it Luell. The
Castle was first built by William Rufus, a.d. 1093.
Henry I. increased the fortifications, raised the city
to a Bishop’s see, and granted it many privileges and
immunities. In the year 1292, the Castle and Ca-
thedral were burned down, and were rebuilt by
Richard III. Henry VIII. made great additions152
CARLISLE TO PENRITH.
to the fortifications of both castle and town; and
Queen Elizabeth erected the chapel and barracks.
Carlisle was a place of great importance during
the Border wars, and being subject to perpetual in-
roads, during the hostility of the two nations, its
prosperity has been greatly increased since the Union.
The principal buildings of Carlisle are, the Castle,
the Cathedral, the New Gaol, the Bridges over the
Hi vers Eden and Petterell, the County Infirmaries,
and the News, Reading, and Billiard Rooms.
The principal manufactures are, of cottons, wool-
lens, linen, leather, &c.; and it is particularly cele-
brated for the superior quality of its whips and hats.
The city, of which the population is about 20,000,
sends two members to Parliament, and the county
returns four members. The market-days are Wed-
nesday and Saturday ; and the principal inns, the
Bush, and the Coffee-house.
One mile beyond Carlton are, Briscoe-hill, J. Jar-
dine, Esq.; Woodside, Miss Losh; and Newbiggin
Hall, H. A. Aglionby, Esq. One mile to the right
of Low Hesket is Barrack Lodge, W. James, Esq.
Just before you enter High Hesket, on the left, is
Nordvue, Mrs. Dixon ; on the right, are Moor house-
hill, Mr. Lowden ; Petterell Green, C. Parker, Esq.;
and Cathwaite Hall, T. Dixon, Esq.
At Plumpton, on the right, are the ruins of Old
Penrith—a Roman station, called by Camden, Pe-
triana; and by Horsley, Bemeteuracum : this station,
vestiges of which are still remaining, is 200 yardsCARLISLE TO PENRITH.
153
from the river Petterell ; and the great Roman road,
leading to the Piets’ Wall, was on the line of the
present high road.
At Salkeld Gate, to the left, is Salkeld Lodge, the
residence of Lieut.-Colonel Lacy.
For Penrith, see Chap. XIII.154
PENRITH TO KENDAL.
Miles.	Miles.
1	Eamont Bridge....	1
\	Lowther Bridge....	1§
3	Hackthorpe ........ 4g
Thurnby........... 7
Shap .............. 10§
Miles.	Miles.
5J	Demmingo.......... 16
3|	Bannisdale Bridge ... 19|
1^	Gate-Side ........ 21
If	Otter Bank........ 22f
3^	Kendal ........... 26
One mile from Penrith, on the left, is Carleton Hall,
J. Cowper, Esq. Crossing Lowther Bridge, one
mile and a half on the left is Brougham Hall, Lord
Brougham and Vaux. Two miles to the right of
Hackthorpe, is Lowther Castle, the seat of the Earl
of Lonsdale. See Chap. XIV.
Shap is a small market-town, situated near the
source of the river Lowther. A mile from the town
are the ruins of a venerable Abbey of Premonstra-
teusian Canons, founded and endowed in the latter
end of the reign of Henry II., by Thomas Fitz-Gos-
patrick Fitz-Orme.
Three miles South-East of Shap is a Spa of excel-
lent medicinal properties: it is the property of the
Earl of Lonsdale, who, with his characteristic libe-PENRITH TO KENDAL.
155
rality, has built a handsome inn, with warm and cold
baths, and every accommodation, in a superior style.
This Spa (better known by the name of Sliap Wells),
has been as yet numerously attended ; and invalids
have derived considerable benefit from the use of the
Baths, which promise to become a popular place
of resort.
The population of Shap is about 1090: it has a
market on Wednesday ; and the principal inns are,
the Greyhound, and the King’s Arms.
Kendal: see Chap. III.156
HAWESWATER TO KENDAL.
BY LONG SLEDDALE.
Fifteen Miles.
Haweswater : see Chap. XIV.
The road to Haweswater through Long Sleddale,
is so rough and steep, as to be impracticable other-
wise than on foot or on horseback. From Mardale
Green, the track leads between Harter Fell and
Branstree, through the mountain-pass of Long Sled-
dale, till it joins the road from Shap to Kendal, five
miles from the latter place. This road is bad enough to
deter many travellers from adopting it; but the pass
from Kentmere, between High-Street and Harter
Fell, is even yet more difficult.
Kendal: see Chap. III.INDEX
A.
Abbot Hall, 22.
Airey Force, 5, 116.
Ambleside, 36.
Angle Tarn, 4.
Armathwaite, 84*.
Applethwaite Common, 31.
Arthur’s Round Table, 105.
Askham, 108.
B.
Bampton, 108.
Band, the, 41.
Barrow Fall, 5, 61.
Bassenthwaite Water, 83*.
Beacon, Penrith, 97.
Beacon Tarn, 4.
Beethom, 15.
Belle Isle, 26.
Berkshire Island, 29.
Birk Fell, 113.
Bilker Force, 5.
Black Combe, 8.
Black Pike. 41.
Blake Ridge, ib.
Blea Tarn, ib.
Bolton-le-sands, 13.
Borrowdale, 71.
Berwick Ground, 121.
Bowdar Stone, 71.
Bowfell, 7, 42.
Bowness, 25.
Brathay River, 5.
Brotherswater, 120.
Brougham Castle, 98.
Brougham Hall, 106.
Brow Top, 56.
Bure River, 6.
Burtness Tarn, 4.
Burton, 132.
Buttermere, 73.
C.
Calder Abbey, 81.
Calder Bridge, 80.
Carlisle, 151.
Carnforth, 13.
Carrs, the, 53.
Carrock Fell, 8.
Cartmel Fells, 30.
Castle Crag, Borrowdale, 61, 71.
Castlehead, Derwentwater, 58.
Castlerigg, 56, 58.
Castle Rock, 56.
Catbells, 8.
Causey Pike, ib.
Chapel Style, 44.
Claybarrow, 23.
Cocker River, 6.
Cockermouth, 146.158
INDEX
Codale Tarn, 4.
Cold Fell, 83.
Colwith Force, 5, 40.
Conishead Priory, 1 23.
Coniston Lake, 35, 121.
---------Old Man, 7.
---------Waterhead, 34.
Countess’ Pillar, 102.
Crake, River, 137.
Cross Fell, 7, 98.
Crosthwaite Church, 56.
Crummock Water, 74.
D.
Dalgarth Force, 5.
Dallam Tower, 15.
Dent, 83.
Derwent River, 6.
---------Island, 60.
---------Water, 59.
Devock Water, 5.
Dodd Fell, 120.
Druid Temple, Castlerigg, 58.
Duddon River, 6.
Dunald-mill-hole, 13.
Dungeon Gill, 5, 43.
Dunmail Raise, 53.
Dunmallet, 115.
E.
Eagle Crag, 72.
Eamont, River, 6, 106.
Easdale Tarn, 4.
Eden, River, 6.
Ellen, River, ib.
Elleray, 29.
Elter Water, 43.
Ennerdale Bridge, 84.
------------ Lake, 83.
Eskdale, 142.
Esk, River, 5.
Esthwaite Water, 34.
F.
Fairfield, 7, 53J
Farlton Knot, 15.
Ferry, Windermere, 29.
Floating Island, 59.
Floutern Tarn, 5.
Foulsha, 19.
Friar Crag, 58.
Furness Abbey, 124.
G.
Gatescarth, 73.
Giant’s Cave, 100.
------ Grave, 96.
Gillerthwaite, 84.
Glencoin, 117.
Glenridding, ib.
Gosforth, 81.
Gowbarrow Parks, 115.
Gowdar Crag, 62.
Grainge, 71.
Grasmere Lake, 43.
---------Vale, 53.
Grasmoor, 7, 74.
Great End, 78.
Great Gavel, 7, 78.
Greta River, 6, 87.
Grisedale Pike, 7.
H.
Hale, 13.
Hallen Fell, 113.
Halsteads, 115.
Harrison Stickle, 7.
Harrop Tarn, 4.
Harter Fell, 110.
Hartshorn Tree, 102.
Haweswater, 108.INDEX
159
Hawkshead, 34.
Haycocks, the, 73.
Hayswater Tarn, 4.
Heaves Lodge, 20.
Helm Crag, 53.
Helvellyn, 7, 64.
Heversham, 16.
High Close, 43.
High Street, 7.
Honister Crag, 73.
Howe, the, 56.
I.
Ingleborougb, 7.
Irt, River, 6.
Isis Parlis, 100.
K.
Kendal, 21.
Kent, River, 5.
Keppel Cove Tarn, 4.
Keskadale, 75.
Keswick, 57.
Kidsay Pike, 110.
Kirkby Lonsdale, 130.
Kirkstone Pass, 121.
L.
Lady’s Rake, 61.
Lakes, the, 4.
Lamplugh, 84.
Lancaster, 11, 129.
Lancaster Sands, 133.
Langdale, Great, 42, 46.
---------. Little, 39.
---------------Tarn, 4, 40.
---------Pikes, 45.
Latrigg, 8, 87.
Leathe’s Water (see Thirlmere).
Leven, River, 135.
------Sands, 134.
Levens Bridge, 19.
------Hall, 17.
Lingmell, 80.
Lingmire, 40.
Long Meg and her Daughters, 101.
Long Sleddale, 156.
Lord’s Island, 59.
------Seat, 7.
Loughrigg Fell, 8, 36.
---------Tarn, 46.
Lowdore, 5, 62.
Loweswater, 84.
Lowick Bridge, 137.
Lowther Castle, 108.
-------, River, 6, 106.
Lime River, 64.
Lyulph’s Tower, 116.
M
Mardale, 109.
May burgh, 105.
Mel'break, 74.
Millbeck, 43.
Milnthorpe, 15.
Mite, River, 6.
Moor Devack, 104.
Mountains, Heights of, 7.
N.
Nab Scarr, 51.
Naddle Fell, 56.
Nether Wasdale, 143.
Newby Bridge, 135.
Newlands Vale, 75.
O.
Orest Head, 139.
Ouse Bridge, 84*.
Oxen Fell, 35.160
INDEX.
P.
Patterdale, 117.
Pavey Ark, 47.
Pelter Bridge, 44, 52.
Penrith, 94.
------- Old, 152.
Penruddock, 94.
Petterel, River, 6.
Pike O'BIisco’, 41.
Pike O’Stickle, 7.
Pillar, 7.
Pooley Bridge, 112.
R.
Raven Crag, 54.
Ravrigg Bank, 31.
Rawling End, 75.
Rawlinson’s Nab, 30.
Rivers, the, 5.
Robinson, 75.
Rostliwaite, 72.
Rothay River, 5.
Rydal Hall, 52.
- Head, 36, 52.
-------Falls, 52.
-------Mount, 52.
------ Water, 44,52.
S.
Saddleback, 7, 55.
St. Bee’s Head, 8.
St. Herbert’s Isle, 59.
St. John’s Vale, 55, 93.
Salkeld, 153.
------- Little, 101.
Sawrey Heights, 34.
Scale Force, 5, 74.
----- Hill, 74, 84.
Scales Farm, 4.
Scandale, 31, 36.
Scawfell, 7, 77.
Scawfell Pike, 7, 78.
Screes, 79.
Seathwaite, 72, 77.
Seatoller, 72.
Seat Sandal, 53.
Sedgwick House, 20.
Shap, 154.
---- Abbey, 154.
---- Wells, 154.
Shepherd’s Crag, 60.
Silver How, 43.
Skelwith Bridge, 39.
-------Force, 5, 39.
Skiddaw, 7, 86.
Smallthwaite Bridge, 56.
Sprinkling Tarn, 4.
Stake Valley, 41.
Station, Windermere, 29.
Steel Fell, 53.
Stickle Tarn, 47.
Stock Gill Force, 4, 37.
Stonethwaite, 72.
Storr’s Hall, 30.
Strands, 81.
Stybarrow Crag, 117.
Stye Head, 77.
-----------Tam, 78.
Style End, 43.
Swinside, 84*.
T.
Taylor’s Gill, 77.
Tarns, the, 4.
Thirlmere, 54.
Thrang Crag, 43.
Threlkeld.
Thurston Water (see Coniston).
Troutbeck Bridge, 139.
U.
Ullswater, 113.INDEX
161
Ulverstou, 123.
Underlay Hall, 131 •
V.
Vicar’s Island, 59.
W.
Wad Mines, 78.
Wallow Crag (Derwent Water),
56, 60.
-------------Haweswater, 109.
Wansfell, 8, 31.
Wasdale, 79.
-------- Head, 80.
Wastwater, 79.
Watendlath, 77.
Waterfalls, 4.
Watermillock, 115.
Wetherlam, 41.
Wharton Crag, 14.
Whinfell, 7 4.
Whinlatter, 85.
Whitbarrow Scarr, 16.
Whitehaven, 145.
Whiteless Pike, 74.
White Moss, 52.
Windermere, 24, 26.
Workington, 148.
Wrynose, 40.
Wythburn, 54, 65.
Wythrop, 85*.
Y.
Yealands, 14.
Yewdale, 79.LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.
His Grace the Duke of Beaufort.
His Grace the Duke of Cleveland.
His Grace the Duke of Dorset.
His Grace the Duke of Grafton*
His Grace the Duke of Leeds.
His Grace the Duke of Richmond.
His Grace the Duke of Rutland.
The Marquis of Conyngham.
The Marquis of Londonderry.
The Marchioness of Londonderry.
The Marquis of Tavistock.
The Marquis of Westminster.
The Earl of Chesterfield.
The Earl of Derby.
The Earl of Egremont.
The Earl of Jersey.
The Countess of Jersey.
The Earl of Lonsdale.
The Countess of Lonsdale.
The Earl of March.
The Earl of Orford.
The Earl of Stradbroke,
The Earl of Templetown.
The Earl of Verulam.164
LIST OP SUBSCRIBERS.
Viscount Lowther.
Lord George Bentincke.
Vice-Admiral Sir John P. Beresford.
Sir Hollyoake Goodrick.
Sir Samuel Higgins.
Lady Higgins.
Miss Higgins.
Colonel Sir Frederick W. Trench, K G.H.
Sir Mark Wood.
The Honourable John Coventry.
The Honourable Thomas Coventry
The Honourable — Pelham, M.P.
The Honourable General Upton.
A. B. Esq.
James Brandreth, Esq.
Colonel Buckworth.
Mrs. Carr.
Mrs. Coventry.
Life Dacre, Esq.
Ralph Etwall, Esq. M. P.
Scarlett Everard, Esq. Lynn.
Miss Goding.
Ormsby Gore, Esq. M. P.
John Green, Esq.
Charles C. Greville, Esq.
General Grosvenor.
George Halfhide, Esq.
George Halfhide, Jun. Esq.
Thomas Hammerton, Esq.
William Harmar, Esq.
Mrs. Harmar.
Thomas Houldsvvorth, Esq. M. P.LIST OF SUBSCRIBERS.
165
Mrs. Isaacson.
Mrs. Wootton Isaacson.
The Reverend — Johns.
Henry Lamotte, Esq.
William Ley, Esq.
Captain Henry Meynell, R. N., M. P.
Edward F. Meynell, Esq.
John Mott, Esq.
Adam Murray, Esq.
Captain Ogle.
Horatio Robson, Esq.
William Rotheray, Esq.
Arthur Saunders, Esq.
John Shaw, Esq.
John Villiers Shelley, Esq.
— Simpson, Esq.
Bright Smith, Esq.
William Smith, Esq.
Mrs. William Smith.
Miss Smith.
Miss Lucy Smith.
Miss Isabella Smith.
Robert Spence, Esq.
Sloane Stanley, Esq.
Mrs. Tattersall.
Edmund Tattersall, Esq.
Beilby Thompson, Esq. M. P.
Colonel Udny.
Mrs. Scott Waring.
Mrs. Weatherby.
William Wigram, Esq.
THE END.Wilson & Son, Printers, 57, Skinner-Street, London.ERRATA.
Page 19, for “ factious,” read “ facetious.”
— 24, for “ Scafell,” read “ Scawfell.”
— 51, for “ Helen Crag,” read “ Helm Crag.
—	53, for “ Canns,” read “ Carrs.”
*— 55, for “ oft,” read “ soft.”
—	61, for “ pagean,” read “pageant.”A
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Chess.
Chess made easy ; being a new Introduction to that scientific
and fashionable Game, written in a familiar manner, for the use of Beginners, by
GEORGE WALKER. Price 3s.
i\ EW TREATISE on CHESS; containing the Rudiments of the
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the most brilliant Openings and difficult Ends of Games, as practised by the first
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*tt* The Second Edition of Mr. Walker’s Treatise on Chess is entirely re-Avritten,
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Games at Chess, played by Pliilidor and his Contemporaries.
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Draughts.
SURGES’ GUIDE to the GAME of DRAUGHTS, in which the
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Shaw’s Parish Officer’s Guide.
TO THE CLERGY, PAROCHIAL OFFICERS, AND RATE-PAYERS OF THE
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Alder son on Steam.
Essay on the NATURE and APPLICATION of STEAM
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“An Essay, and an Historical Notice of the Rise and progressive Improvement of this mighty
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Death-Blow to Fraud and Adulteration.
Deadly ADULTERATION and SLOW POISONING UN-
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Curtis on Grasses.
Hints on the MANAGEMENT of GRASS LAND? with
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an Enumeration of Gr.ass Seeds of the most nutritious property, and best adapted
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Sir John Sinclair on Agriculture.
Code of AGRICULTURE; including' Observations on Gar-
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“ Sir John Sinclair’s ‘ Code of Agriculture’is one of the most valuable books of the year. Sri
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Faanklin.
E 210 Books printed for Sherwood and Co. Paternoster-Row,
COOKE’S TOPOGRAPHICAL LIBRARY.
Illustrated with 10 Views and 2 Coloured Maps, price 4s. sewed,
Part I. containing- Cornwall, of
COOKE'S
TOPOGRAPHICAL LIBRARY,
OR
SSritigt) CrabeUer’0
POCKET COUNTY DIRECTORY:
CONTAINING
An Accurate and Comprehensive
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OF ALL TIIE
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IN
<£ng!antr, t%, grotlantr, amtr Irslantr*
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BRITISH EMPIRE, and contains a particular Account of the
Situation,	Mines,	Agriculture,	Picturesque Scenery,
Extent,	Minerals,	Fairs,	Natural History,
Towns,	Fisheries,	Markets,	Civil and Ecclesiastical
Roads,	Manufactures,	Monuments	Jurisdiction,
Rivers,	Trade,	Curiosities,	&c. &c.
Lakes,	Commerce,	Antiquities,	
of all the Counties in England, Wales, Scotland, and Ireland; the whole inter-
spersed with a variety of Information, entertaining to the general Reader—
highly beneficial to the Agriculturist, Trader, and Manufacturer—and particu-
larly interesting to the Traveller, Speculatist, Antiquarian, and, in short, to every
Inhabitant of the World.
The Work is highly illustrated with a complete Series of County Maps, accu-
rately Coloured, and Embellished with upwards of Three Hundred Picturesque
Views of Towns, Castles, Churches, Cathedrals, Natural Curiosities, Noblemen’s
and Gentlemen’s Skats, Druidical Remains, &c. &c.
The division of the Work into separate Counties affords great accommodation
to the Public, in selecting such portions as may be wished; thus the Western
Circuit of England comprehends Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Somerset, Wilts, and
Hants, and forms Four interesting Volumes, The other Five Circuits of the
Judges may be selected and bound up in the like manner.
To each County are prefixed a List of the Markets and Fairs, an Index,
shewing the Distance of every Town from London, and of Towns from each other:
also a Copious TRAVELLING COUNTY GUIDE, describing all the Roads, Inns,
Distances of Stages, Noblemen’s and Gentlemen’s Seats, &c. forming
A COMPLETE COUNTY ITINERARY.
The Plan of this Work has received particular approbation, from its being
divided into Easy Journeys ; by which means, Persons, either Riding or on Foot,
have the opportunity of viewing many beautes which otherwise might be missed ;
and to frequenters of the various Watering Places, it will be found a most
agreeable Guide and Companion.Books printed f or Sherwood and Co. Paternoster-Row. 11
Cookers Topographical Library—continued.
The Parts vary in price according to the size of the County, none of them
exceeding Four Shillings, any of which may be had separately, viz.
Bedfordshire		9	0	Hertfordshire 		2	0	Scotland (6parts) .	.12	0
Berkshire				9	6	Huntingdonshire and			Shropshire		..2	0
Buckinghamsh.	.2	0	Rutlandshire ....	2	0	Somersetshire		9	G
	9	0	Kent		4	0	South Wales			2	G
Cheshire		9	6	Lancashire		4	0	Staffordshire		9	0
Cornwall		.4	0	Leicestershire		_9	0	Suffolk		9	0
Cumberland ...	.4	0	Lincolnshire		9	0	Surrey 		9	0
Derbyshire			9	0	Middlesex		4	0	Sussex			1)
Devonshire ....	.4	0	Monmouthshire		_9	0	Warwickshire		9	0
Dorsetshire		. 2	0	Norfolk 		9	0	Westmoreland....	9	0
Durham		.2	0	North amptonsh		9	0	Wiltshire 		9	0
Essex		9	0	North Wales		9	6	Worcestershire		9	0
Gloucestershire	.2	0	Northumberland ....	9	0	Yorkshire		..4	0
Hampshire 		.2	0	Nottinghamsh			0	Isles of Wight, &c.	-. 2	0
Herefordshire..		0	Oxfordshire 		9>	0			
+++ In order to render this Work as perfect and useful as possible, correct Maps,
and accurate Itineraries, have been considered indispensably necessary. In treating
of the Ancient History of our Island, the most Authentic Accounts only have been
detailed, avoiding mere speculation; and in describing Monuments of Antiquity,
their present appearances, with the opinions of the learned upon their origin, have been
deemed sufficient. The Topographical Descriptions have been drawn from the best
works upon the subject, from original materials, and from actual observation. No
pains have been spared in producing Authentic Historical Accounts of the Ancient and
Present State of every part of the Country. The name of every Eminent Native
will be found recorded. The Natural History of the British Islands has claimed parti,
cular attention. Great care has been taken with the Local Trade and Manufactures
of every part of Great Britain ; and no opportunity has been omitted to point out fa-
vourable situations for the exercise of Industry, and the beneficial application of
Capital.
COOK’S GUIDE to the LAKES of CUMBERLAND, WEST-
MORELAND, and LANCASHIRE.; including a Description of the'surrounding
Scenery, the Vales, Mountains, adjacent Towns and Villages, Local Peculiarities,
2s. 6cl.
COOKE’S WALKS through LONDON; or, a PICTURE of the
BRITISH METROPOLIS, in the Year 1833; containing Architectural Descriptions
of the Buildings in London, Westminster, and Southwark, and their Environs;
being a complete Guide to the Casual Visitor, or Constant Resident. Embel-
lished with numerous Cuts and Map, Gs.
“ It is one of the pleasantest and most instructive companions that one can have about one, while
perambulating the metropolis; we recommend the little book to those who wish to have an exact
idea of London.”—Observer, Jan. 12.
“ This is a very interesting pocket volume. It contains a description of every thing and place of
amusement in London and the surrounding districts; and, in inking us through twenty-one walks,
most pleasantly points out all that is instructive and interesting.”— Weekly Register, Jan. 13.
Picture of the isle of wight: with twenty-six
of the most interesting Views throughout the Island, drawn aud engraved by
COOKE. To which are prefixed, an ACCOUNT of the ISLAND, aud a VOYAGE
round ITS COAST. Price 12s.
Evans S WALKS through NORTH and SOUTH WALES;
containing a Topographical and Statistical Description of the Principality: also
a Copious Travelling Guide, exhibiting the Direct and Cross-roads, Inns, Dis-
tances of Stages, and Noblemen’s Seats. With Maps and Views. 8s. bound.
Steam-BOAT COMPANION from LONDON to
GRAVESEND, SOUTHEND, HERNE B\Y, MARGATE, and RAMSGATE; con-
taining a Topographical Notice of the several Towns, Villages, Public Buildings,
and Noblemen and Gentlemen’s Seats. Illustrated with a Coloured Frontispiece,
exhibiting a PICTURESQUE VIEW of every thing worthy of Observation on the
Middlesex, Essex, Surrey, aud Kentish Shores, between London and Ramsgate, Is.12 Books printed for Sherwood and Co. Paternoster-Row,
BOOKS OF TRADES AND USEFUL ARTS.
The following Work Books comprehend a valuable Series of Practical and dis-
tinct Treatises, expressly adapied to the daily Business of the Operative, Artist,
and Mechanic. The object of the several writers has been to concentrate the
best Practical Information on the different subjects into as smalt a compass as
possible; and, by the knowledge and experience of several skilful and practical
Mechanics, who have liberally contributed to the objects desired, the various
books may be considered as vade-mecums of the Trades to which they relate.
The first six by C. F. Partington, Esq.
1.	Clock and watch
MAKER’S GUIDE ; comprehending the
e.irly History of the Art, its Progres-
sive Improvement, and Present State,
2s.
2.	COACHMAKER'S and
WHEELWRIGHT’S GUIDE; compre-
hending the Theory and Construction
of Wheel Carriages. Is. 6d.
3.	Shipbuilder’s guide;
comprehending the Theory and Prac-
tice of Naval Architecture. 3s. 6d.
4.	Builder’s guide?
comprehending the Theory and Prac-
tice of the several departments of Ar-
chitecture, Bricklaying, Brickinaking,
Masonry,Carpentry, Joinery, Painting,
and Plumbing. With Useful Informa-
tion on ihe Application and Durability
of Materials, &c. Is.
5.	PRINTER’S GUIDE ? con-
taining a Sketch of the History and
Progress of Printing to its Present
State of Improvement; Details of
its several Departments; numerous
Schemes of Imposition; Modern Im-
provements in Stereotype, Presses,
and Machinery. 2s. 6d.
6.	Engraver’s guide?
with its Modern Improvements in Steel
PI ales. Lithography, &c. Is. fid.
*•** These Six Treatises, collectively, form a
large and interesting Volume, and will be found
a valuable acquisition to Young Mechanics: th y
may be hod, neatly bound in cloth, for 15s. being
3s. less than when purchased separately.
7.	CABINET-MAKER’S
GUIDE; or, Rules and Instructions in
the Art of Varnishing, Dying, Staining,
Japanning, Polishing, Lacquering, and
Beautifying Wood, Ivory, Tortoise-
shell, and Metal. By G. A. SIDDONS.
6th Edition. 3s. fid.
“ tVe strongly recommend this as a vade-
mecum, which shou d be in the pocket of every
Cabinet-maker.”—Critical Gazette.
8.	DYER’S GUIDE ; a Com-
pendium of the Art of Dying Linen,
Cotton, Silk, Wool, Muslin, Dresses,
Furniture, &c.: the Method of Scour-
ing and Bleaching. By T. PACKER,
Dyer and Chemist. Gf.
9.	HoUSE-PAINTER’S and
COLOURMAN’S GUIDE; a Treatise
on ihe Preparation of Colours, and their
Application to the different kinds of
Painting; in which is described the
Art of Houst Painting. By P. F. TIN-
GRY. 3rd Edition, improved. 7i.
10.	VaRNISHER’S GUIDE;
a Practical Treatise on the Art of
Making and Applying Varnishes, to
Painting, and to other branches of the
Arts. With new Observations and
Experiments on Copal ; on the Sub-
stances employed in the Composition
of Varnish. By P. F. TINGRY. 6s.
The three following are by
John Nicholson, Esq. Civil Engineer.
11.	Builder’s practical
GUIDE ; containing an Explanation of
the Principles of Science, as applied
to Building ? comprising an entire
Course of Instruction for Masons,
Bricklayers, Carpenters, Joiners, Plas-
terers, Siaters, Plumbers, Glaziers,
and Painters; with the Customary Me-
thods of Estimating, Measuring, and
Charging. 7s. Plates.
12.	Millwright’s
GUIDE; a Practical Treatise on the
Construction of all Kinds of Mill Work,
and the Application of the Power of
Wind and W ater. Plates. 7s.
13.	Practical essay
on the Construction and Use of the
STEAM ENGINE, and on the Applica-
tion of Power from Steam. 2s. 6d.
14.	Practical view of
the most remarkable Public W^orks
aud National Improvements of the
British Empire ; elucidated by Engrav-
ings of Plans, Elevations, Sections, and
Details; including the most striking
Examples of British Science, Skill,
Power. Ingenuity, and Perseverance,
as exhibitrd in our Bridges, whether of
Stone or Iron (including Suspension
Bridges), Canals, Locks, Ports, Piers,
Docks, Lighthouses, Railways, &c. Ac.
From the French of BARON DUPIN.
With Twenty-Six Plates. 7s.Books printed for Sherwood and Co. Paternoster-Row. 13
NICHOLSON’S CODE OF MECHANICAL SCIENCE,
Being a complete Encyclopaedia of Practical Knowledge; con-
taining nearly One Thousand Pages of Print, and illustrated by
One Hundred Copper-plate Engravings, comprising One Thousand
Subjects of Mechanical Science.
Operative mechanic and British machinist: com-
prehending a complete aiul systematic Development both of the Theory and
Practice of the Productive Arts, in their present state of unrivalled perfection:
and exhibiting’ the actual Construction and practical Uses of all the Machinery and
Implements now used in Great Britain, with the real Processes adopted in perfect-
ing the National Manufactures of every Description. By JOHN NICHOLSON,
Esq. Civil Engineer. In One large Volume Octavo, Third Edition, 11. 11s. 6d. half-
bound; or in Thirty Weekly Numbers, Is. each.
This work displays in a cheap and succinct form, and in a correct and com-
prehensive manner, the actual state of Scientific Improvement as at present ap-
plied to the productive Industry of this Empire; not as the same knowledge now
exists in Books, but as actually found in Workshops and Manufactories of the highest
Character,as regards Carpentry, Joinery, Masonry, ;md every branch of the Build-
ing Art. It conveys every desirable information telative to Engines and Con-
structions particularly—as MILL WORK, HYDRAULICS, PRINTI NG MACHIN-
ERY, CLOCKS and WATCHES, and to all Branches of the META LL1C, WOOLLEN,
COTTON, LINEN, SILK, PAPER, PORCELAIN, and other important Manu-
factures.
To this new Edition of the OPERATIVE MECHANIC, the Proprietors have
made very considerable Additions, by way of Supplement, exhibiting a COMPLETE
VIEW of the PUBLIC WORKS of this COUNTRY, by the BARON DUPIN. This
invaluable Department presents a Series of PLANS, ELEVATIONS, SECTIONS,
and DETAILS, exquisitely engraved, including the most striking Examples of
Briti'U Science, Skill, Power, Ingenuity, and Perseverance, a* exhibited in our
BIUDGES.wlietherofSTONEor I RON(i nc) ud ins SUSPENSION BRIDGES), CANALS,
LOCKS, PORTS, PIERS, DOCKS, LIGHTHOUSES, RAILWAYS, LOCOMOTIVE
ENGINES, Ac. Ac. It is therefore equally valuable to the intelligent Workman,
the Scientific Master Manufacturer, and the ingenious Proj. ctor.
Whittoch's Painter's and Glazier's Guide.
DECORATIVE PAINTER’S ami GLAZIER’S COMPLETE GUIDE;
containing the most approved Methods of Imitating Oak, Mahogany, Maple, Rose,
Cedar, Coral, and every other kind of Fancy Wood; Verd Antique, Dove, Sienna,
White Porphyry, Veined, and other Marbles, in Oil or Distemper Colour; Designs
for Decorating Apartments, in accordance with the various Styles of Architecture ;
Directions for Stencilling, and Process for destroying Damps in Rooms, with In-
structions and Patterns for Painting Transparent Blind*; also, a complete Body
of Information on the Art of Staining and Painting on Gla-s ; Plans for the Erec-
tion of Apparatus for annealing it: and the method of joining Figures together by
leading, with Examples from Ancient Windows. By NATHANIEL WHITTOCK,
assisted by the most experienced and practical Artizans in every Department of
Decorative Painting and Glazing.
The Work is complete in Fifty Numbers, and illustrated with One Hcjndheo
Emblematical Plates, forming a splendid Volume in Quarto, and may be had,
bound and lettered, price 21. 14#.
*** “ A Work containing numerous well-coloured and explanatory plates; a work which neither
the Decorative fainter, Glazier, nor even the Varnisher, should be without; a Work whose copious-
ness of detail, and accuracy of practical information on the various subjects of which it treats, has no
rival: here the fainter, the Varnisher, the Glazier, and the Glass-starner, will find what no other
-book contains, namely, directions for the practical application of their respective arts.”— 1'ingry’
Varnisher's Gu de.14 Books printed for Sherwood and Co. Paternoster-Row.
Specimens of Marbles for Decorative Painters.
Specimens of marbles for decorations, from the Ox-
ford Collection in the Radcliffe Library and the Ashmolean Museum, calculated
for the Use of ORNAMENTAL PAINTERS; forming a Supplement, and sold
separately for the Accommodation of Purchasers of the First Edition of “ The
Painter’s and Glazier’s Guide.” By NATHANIEL WHITTOCK. Price 9.?. illus-
trated with Seventeen Plates, printed on Quarto, and accurately coloured.
Wliittocli’s Shop Fronts.
VIEWS of the Most Elegant SHOP FRONTS in LONDON :
also ORIGINAL DESIGNS ; with Observations and Hints for Improving Shop
Fronts in general, by giving them variety and character, and an appropriate
style of decoration, in accordance with the several trades carried on within them.
Selected as a Guide to the Public, and for the Use of Architects, Builders, Car-
penters, and Painters, in the Erection of New Houses, or the Altering Old Ones.
Illustrated with 10 Plates. Elegantly printed in 4to., and accurately coloured.
By N. WHITTOCK, Author of the Decorative Painter and Glaaier’s Guide.
VlNTNER’S, BREWER’S, SPIRIT MERCHANT’S, and Li-
censed VICTUALLER’S GUIDE and INSTRUCTOR; containing an extensive
Collection of approved RECEIPTS, (many of them never before published), for
MANUFACTURING WINES, MALT LIQUORS, CIDER, PERRY, VINEGAR,
SPIRITS, LIQUORS, ESSENCES, CORDIALS, and COMPOUNDS, in accordance
with the present improved PRACTICE; IMPORTANT HINTS on CELLARING,
and the general Management of all the Articles enumerated ; Abstracts of the
Laws affecting Innkeepers, with various Tables, and Miscellaneous Matter for
constant Reference. Arranged with particular attention to the Interests of the
Tradf, as well as for the use of Private Families and Gentlemen’s Butlers, &c.
By a PRACTICAL MAN. Fifth Edition.
Breiving and Malting.
Practical treatise on brewing the various
SORTS of MALT LIQUOR, and the mode of using the Thermometer and Saccha-
rometer rendered easy to every capacity : forming a complete Guide in brewing
LONDON PORTER, BROWN STOUT, and every other description of Ale and
Beer. To which are added, General Instructions for making Malt. By ALEX.
MORRICE, Common Brewer. Eighth Edition, 8vo. 8s.
Clarke’s Complete Cellar man, fyc.
Publican and innkeeper’s practical guide, and
WINE and SPIRIT DEALER’S ASSISTANT; containing the most approved
methods of Managing, Preserving, and Improving Wines, Spirits, and Malt
Liquors; the Composition and Management of Cordials and Compounds ; Practical
Instructions for the advantageous Selection, Sale, and Purchase of Wines and
Spir its ; deduced from long and extensive experience in the Management of large
Wine and Spirit Vaults; with particular Directions for Mixing, Reducing, and
Improving the Quality of Wines, Spirits, Sc. The Laws and Excise Regulations
affecting Publicans and Wine and Spirit Dealers; the Statutes for Quartering
and Billeting Soldiers ; the Post-Horse Duties and Regulations; and Precaution-
ary Instructions to Persons entering into the Public Line. By WILLIAM
CLARKE. Price 7s. bound in cloth.
Art of BREWING on SCIENTIFIC PRINCIPLES.
Adanted to the Use of Brewers and Private Families; with the value and im-
portance of the Saccharometer. The whole system of Ale, Table Beer, and
Porter Brewing, and the Names and Proportions of the various Ingredients used
by Porter Brewers (but prohibited by the Excise) made public. To which ar
added. Directions for Family Brewing ; making Cider, Perry, Home-made Wines,
&c. &c. Price Ss. fid.
“ A great body of practical information compressed into a small volume.”—Monthly Critical Gat.Books printed for Sherwood and Co. Paternoster-Row. 15
Dubranfaut on Rectification and Distilling.
Complete treatise on the whole art of distil-
lation, with Practical Instructions for preparing Spirituous Liquors from Corn,
Potatoes, Beet-Roots, ami other Farinaceous and Sugary Vegetables; particu-
larly useful to MALTSTERS, BREWERS, and VINEGAR MAKERS. Also, the
ART of RECTIFICATION, in which is particularly treated the nature of Essential
Oils, as the influential causes of the Tastes and Flavours of Spirits. From the
French of DUBRANFAUT, by JOHN SHERIDAN. To which is prefixed, the
DISTILLER’S PRACTICAL GUIDE, with genuine Receipts for making RUM,
BRANDY, HOLLANDS, GIN, and all sorts of Compounds, Cordials, and Liquors.
Price 12s. in cloth, illustrated with numerous Cuts of improved Apparatus used in
Distillation.
Private gentleman’s wine and spirit cellar
DIRECTORY ; containing Full and Practical Instructions for the Selection, Pur-
chase, Management, and Preservation of Foreign Wines and Spirits. By the
Author of the FAMILY BRITISH WINE MAKER’S ORACLE. Price 7s.
“ More than nine-tenths of the wine imported into this country is either spoiled
or impoverished by the ignorance or mismanagement of the wine dealer or the
purchaser; as at present conducted the management of a wine-cellar is in most
cases all random,hap-liazard, and guesswork,—oughtwe tube surprised at the con-
sequences ?—No book is more wanted than a good, practical, and complete one
on this important subject ; it would be worth its weight in gold.”—Dr. Henderson’s
History of Wines.
BoDSLEY’S ORIGINAL CELLAR-BOOK; or, The Butler’s
Assistant in keeping a regular Account of his Wines, Liquors, &c.; exhibiting
at one view, the receipt of wine, the consumption, and the stock in hand. Price
Is. 6d. Published Annually.
Sturges's Publican’s Ledger.
PUBLICAN’S JOURNAL and LEDGER, on an original
Plan; much approved by the Commissioners of the different Courts of Requests:
to whic h are added, a New Set of Tables calculated by Mr. William Tate, for
Gauging Casks of every usual Dimensions, whereby the Quantity in Gallons and
Quarts is instantly shown, by taking the wet Inches: also, a Summary of the
Laws affecting Publicans and Innkeepers, with Useful Hints to Publicans in
General. By JOSHUA STURGES, Author of a Treatise on the Game o'f Draughts.
A new Edition, with Improveinents. Price, for One Year, 3s.9d. sewed, or bs.6d.
half-bound; for Two Years,9s.Gd.\ and for Three Years, 13s. half-bound.
Freemasonry.
Freemason’s quarterly review; consisting of
Reminiscences, Memoirs, Original Papers and Essays, and Masonic Intelligence
from all the Lodges in the World. Number 1 to 9, 3s. each. Published Quarterly.
Signs and SYMBOLS, Illustrated and Explained, in a course of
TWELVE LECTURES on FREEMASONRY. 1 volume Svo. Second Edition. By
the Rev. G. OLLIVER.
“ W hat is Masonry 1
A beautiful system of morality, veiled in allegory and illustrated by SYMBOLS.”
JaCHIN and BOAZ, or an Authentic Key to the Door of Free-
masonry, with an appropriate Engraving; to which is added, a List of all the
Lodges in the World. Svo. sewed, is. 6d.
Three DISTINCT KNOCKS at the DOOR of FREEMA-
SONRY, being a universal description of all its branches, from its first rise to this
time, as it is delivered at all the Lodges. Plate, Svo. sewed, Is.16 Books printed for Sherwood and Co. Paternoster Roiv,
Jennings's Dictionary of Useful Knowledge.
Family CYCLOPEDIA; being- a Code of Useful and
Necessary Knowledge in Domestic Economy, Agriculture, Chemistry, and the
Arts; including the most approved Modes of Treatment of Diseases, Accidents,
and Casualties. By JAMES JENNINGS, Esq. In one large Volume, 8vo. price
11. Is. in boards.
This very useful work contains upwards of fourteen hundred closely-printed
pages, comprising as much matter as is frequently contained in six ordinary-sized
octavo volumes. The following are the opinions of the Reviewers on its merits;—
“Asa book of daily reference, the FAMILY CY C LOPiE HI A is really invaluable:
it forms a portable Library of Useful Knowledge, of easy reference, and contains
a great variety of information not to be found in other works of similar pretensions,
and of greater magnitude.”
“ It contains a large mass of information on subjects connected with the Domestic
Economy of Life. In matters of Science and the Arts, the selections are all from
sources of the best authority, and treated in a clear and familiar manner. As a
book of daily refet ence in the common concerns of life, its great practical utility
will, no doubt, ensure it a ready introduction, and a favourable reception in
every intelligent family.”
“ The able manner in which this work is executed affords satisfactory evidence
that the editor is thoroughly acquainted with the subject. It is a valuable
multum in parvo.”
Jennings' Cook's Guide.
TWO THOUSAND FIVE HUNDRED PRACTICAL Re-
ceipts in FAMILY COOKERY ; in which the whole Art of preparing Food and
Drink for the Human Stomach is simplified and explained, in accordance to the
best knowledge of the age, and most conducive to the health and happiness of
our species ; with an Introduction on the Duties of Cooks and other Servants,
Obser\ations on the Implements employed in Cooking, Instructions for Market-
ing, for Trussing, and lor performing the Honours of the Table with grace and
propriety in the Whole Art of Carving. By JAMES JENNINGS, Author of the
Family Cyclopaedia.
Moubray on Poultry, Pigs, and Cows.
A PRACTICAL TREATISE on BREEDING, REARING, and
FATTENING all KINDS of DOMESTIC POULTRY, PIGEONS, and RABBITS:
also on Breeding, Feeding, and Managing Swine, Milch Cows, and Bees. By
BONINGTON MOUBRAY, Esq. Seventh Edition, enlarged by a Treatise on Brew-
ing, on making British Winks, Cider, Butter, and Cheese, and Country Concerns
generally ; adapted to the Use and Domestic Comforts of Private Families. Just
published, very considerably improved, and illustrated with new and original
Drawings from Life, coloured from Nature, of the various breeds of Fowls and
Animals. 7s. fid. cloth boards.
“ This is unquestionably the uiost practical work on the subject in our language, and the informa-
tion is co.iveyetl m plain and intelligible terms. I he convenience of a small poultry-yard; two or
three pigs, with a bi eeding sow, and a cow for cream, milk, biuter, and cheese, in an English
country-house, appears indispensable; and to point out how these may lieobiainrd, at a reasonable
expense, see.ms to have been Mr. Moubray’s object. He is evidently a good practical farmer, tho-
roughly conversant with rural economy in all its branches; his book is written in a light, lively
Kitchener style; and, like the works of that ceh brated gastronome, conveys, at least, as much
amusement as information. Were any testimony wanted, as to its practical utility, it would he
found in the ueclaration of an eminent rural economist, Sir John Sinclair, who pi onouuces it ‘the
best work hitherto printed’ on the subject of which it treats. It is particularly calculated for the
Colonies, Can ida, and United States, the West Indies, J\ew South Wales, and Van Dieman’s Land.”
—Farmer’s Juuntal.
Every MAN HIS OWN BREWER. A Practical Treatise _pn
BREWING, adapted to the Means of Private Families. By BDNlNGTON
MOUBRAY, Esq. Price 1#. sewed.Books printed for Sherwood and Co. Paternoster-Row. 17
A Valuable Present for Servant Maids.
Female SERVANT’S GUIDE and ADVISER; or THE
SERVICE INSTRUCTOR. Illustrated with Plates, exhibiting the Method
of setting out Dinner Tables, price 3s.
This work has an emphatical claim to the sauction of Masters and Mistresses,
as, by its directions and instructions, Servants are enabled to perform the various
occupations of service in an efficient and satisfactory manner, and are informed
of the methods of occasioning large savings in the management and use oj their
Employers' Household Property and Provisions ; in fact, it embraces the interests
and welfare of the great family of mankind — MASTERS and SERVANTS.
" By the present of a copy of the work to each of their servants, employers may safely calculate
*11 the saving of many pounds a year iu their expeuJiture.”— Taunton Courier.
FAMILY DYER and SCOURER; being a complete Treatise
on the Arts of Dying and Cleaning every article of Dress. By WILLIAM
TUCKER, late Dyer and Scourer in the Metropolis. Fourth Edition, considerably
improved, price 4s. 6d. boards.
u ‘ The Family Dyer and Scourer’ contains much valuable information relative to dying and clean-
ing every article of diess, whether made of wool, cot-ton, silk, /lax, or hair; also, l/td and window
furniture, carpets, hearth-rugs, counterpanes, bonnets, feathers, Ire. In all ot which a very consider-
able saving will he observed, il tne rules laid down he adopted; as it is irtqiieutiy the case that
clothes and furniture are thrown aside iu a dirtv state as useless, which, by beiug Uyed and cleaned,
oiay be worn or used much loisger,”—Taunton Courier.
Neale's Noblemen and Gentlemen's Seats.
Views of NOBLEMEN and GENTLEMEN’S SEATS in
ENGLAND, WALES, SCOTLAND, and IRELAND. From Drawings by J. P.
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