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Digital file copyright by Cornell University
Library 1994.JOURNAL OF A SURVEY OF THE
SOUTH SHORE OF LAKE ERIE
MADE IN 1789
Note—In the summer of 1889 the ancient manuscript from which the fol-
lowing journal is printed was brought to light in the State Library at Albany.
It is not known how it came there, or who wrote it. A small portion of it was
copied and printed in the Buffalo Express, March 30, 1890. The journal is
now published, it is believed for the first time, in full, with reproductions of
the sketches which form a part of the original. Several of the entries are
signed with a monogram which may be “T. P.,” “F. P.” or “J. P-” or other
combination of those letters. The editor of this volume has been unable to
refer the journal to any known surveyor or expedition of that period. The
start from Fort Erie, and the allusions to “Americans,” make it probable that
the survey was made by British engineers. The original document is entitled
“The Journal of a Voyage Round the South Side of Lake Erie.”
Sunday, June 28, 1789.—Winds w. s. w. Set off with
two boats, to begin the survey opposite Fort Erie. Sounded
a reef of rocks, at this time entirely under water, having 3,
4, 5, 6, 7, and 10 feet of water now on them. In 1785 one-
third of the above shoal was entirely out of water. The shoal
extends from n. e. to s. w., the upper end of the shoal bearing
from the Fort e. s. e. and w. n. w., the lower end bearing w.
J2 n. and e. s. The breadth of the shoal is from 25 to 30
feet, the length [blank in original]. The distance of the n. e.
end of the shoal from the south side is y2 a mile, the s. w.
end one mile. Found Fort Erie by observation, in latitude
42.58 n. Surveyed and sounded up to Buffaloe Creek.
Monday, June 29.—Winds w. s. w. Finding the sea too
high, put into Buffaloe Creek, and secured the batteaux.
36s
&366	SURVEY OF LAKE ERIE, 1789.
From BufFaloe Creek, Fort Erie bore n. w. by w. £4 w.,
distant 3 miles. Continued the survey about 234 miles up
the beach, until the sea prevented us, by breaking over the
beach. Sounded the bar of this creek and found 4 feet of
water on it. Formerly, in 1785, part of this bar was entirely
dry, and on the rest scarcely water enough, to float a batteau.
After you are in the creek the soundings are from 2 to 3
fathoms. The land on each side remarkably good and fit for
culture. The Indian chief who is with the party says it
continues so for many miles up.
Tuesday, June 30.—Winds w. by s. A sea from the
westward; could not get on with the boats. Continued the
survey along the shore. At 2 p. m. the wind and sea fell.
Set off with the boats and sounded along shore. Found in
general, 2 and 3 fathoms of water at the distance of 200
yards from the shore; clay bottom. A vessel, with good
cables and anchors, may ride out any gale of wind on this
lake on this part of the south shore. Got with the boats 7
miles above BufFaloe Creek. Found the land low and
swampy near the lake; but apparently very high back to the
eastward. Hauled up the boats and secured them. Took
the magnetic variation and found it 4 deg. 6 min. westerly
from the true meridian, 7 miles distance from Buff aloe
Creek.
Wednesday, July 1.—Winds s. w. A fresh breeze, con-
tinued the survey along a rocky shore. Sounded at the dis-
tance of 300 yards from the shore. Found good anchoring
ground and 2% and 3 fathoms water. The land back from
the edge of the lake remarkably good. The banks on the
lake high. Runs s. w. by w. for 7 miles to Catfish Creek,
and from Catfish Creek 4miles to a sandy point, by the
log, w. s. w. course. This point will shelter boats from a
w. s. w. wind. The sea from the westward was so high we
could not proceed with the boats, which were hauled up and
secured. Continued to chain up along the beach. Measured
by log 12 miles this day.
Thursday, July 2.—Winds w. s. w. A hard gale and
heavy sea. Was obliged to lay by with the boats. This
evening found the variation 4 deg. 6 min. westerly.SURVEY OF LAKE ERIE, 1789.	367
Sketch of Point Ebeno or Abineau, on the north side of Lake Erie.
The above sketch, and title as here printed, appear on an early page of this
anonymous journal, the original drawing being here reduced about one-half.
The origin and meaning of the name which is now written “Point Abino,” have
not been ascertained by the present editor. Galinee’s narrative of his exploration
of the north shore of Lake Erie, 1669-70, does not allude to this point, nor does
his crude map show it. The editor finds no reference to Point Abino in all the
mass of the Jesuit Relations. When, in later years, the point appears in records
and on maps, it has many spellings. Mr. O. H. Marshall found a map in Paris,
date of 1749, on which it is marked as “Pointe de Bino.” A map of 1775 has
the same spelling (Marshall). A map of 1768, found in Paris by Mr. Marshall,
has “Abineau.” Margry (“Memoires Inedites”) has “Pointe A. Binot.” The
journal here printed has it “Ebeno or Abineau.” The latter form was the usual
spelling for many years. Morse’s Gazetteer, ad ed., 1798, has:	“Abineau
Port[!] n. side of Lake Erie, about 13 miles w. s. w. from Fort Erie.” Other
early gazetteers repeat this, but Morse’s for 1823 has “Long Point or Abineau,”
running the two points into one. Christian Schultz’s “Travels*” 1807, speaks of
“Cape Aleneau,” perhaps a typographic error. Crevecoeur (“Voyage dans la
haute Pensylvanie,” etc., 1801) writes it "Abineau”; Heriot, deputy postmaster
of British North America, refers to it about 1800 as “Pointe a Beneaut,” and
again as “Abino.” Joseph Brant, in a letter to British authorities, July 19, 1794,
spells it “Appineau.” One naturally looks to the early forms for a hint as to its
origin; but no “Bino,” “Binot” or “Beneaut” is known in the early history of
Canada, either missionary, soldier or pioneer, whose name is likely to have been
given to this point. There was a Binot at Detroit in the old French days; a
man of no historical importance. Unlike many names of places in this region,
it is not traceable to Indian origin. One is left still in the dark if its origin be
sought along other lines. Wild grapes abounded on the north side of Lake
Erie; many Of the Frenchmen who came there were no doubt familiar with the
' pineau, a black grape of Burgundy—could they have seen a new Burgundy in
this sandy point? If philology is to help us out, there is a possible source in368
SURVEY OF LAKE ERIE, 1789.
Friday, July 3.—Winds easterly and moderate. Set off
with the boats along a rocky shore. Found the soundings
good until we came to the points of land, after which we
found the waters shoal at the distance of 100 or 200 yards.
Stony bottom. The lands back exceeding good; but the
shore so bad that for 2 or 3 miles on a stretch no .such thing
as saving a boat or the people, in case of accidents. This
forenoon past Catagarus [!] Creek up which there is an
Indian village. Went 16 miles by the log. Could not chain
along shore. The bank being so rocky, and without a beach,
and the woods near the lake so thick, that there was no chain-
ing on the bank. Courses steered along shore: s. by w. 2j4
miles, s. w. by s. y2 m., s. w. by s. 1, w. s. w. 2, s. w. by w. 5;
total, 11 miles; s. s. w. 4 m., s. w. s. 34> s. s. w. 1, w. by
s. 2; 16 miles this day by the log.
Saturday, July 4.—Winds s. s. w. Continued the survey
along shore in the boats; the land so high and rocky, no
such thing as chaining it, having no beach to walk on and
the top of the bank being too thick of woods and brush for
that purpose. Sounded along shore; found a general flat
shoal all the way for 13 miles. At the distance of of a mile
found 2 and 3 fathoms water, and good holding ground; but
within that distance, 8, 6, 5, 4 feet water, shore to the bank;
the shoal rocky; a rocky bottom. Measured by log 13%
miles course, as follows: sw. by w, 2 miles, sw. 3 m., sw. y2
w. 834, total 13^4 miles. The coast passed this day, very
bad and dangerous for boats; the land very rich; the timber
in general hemlock, white oak and chestnut. Up a small
creek; here observed the sun setting; found the variation
to be 4 deg. 4 min. westerly.
Sunday, July 5.—-Winds s. w. A heavy gale. Could not
move the boats this day.
Monday, July 6.—Winds n. w. Light breeze. At 4
a. m. set off with the boats along a steep rocky shore. Sound-
epineux (thorny). Or again, a binot is an old-fashioned plow; and the related
verb, biner, literally, to dress (as of vines, etc.) a second time, has come to
mean, to say mass twice in a day—a thing that may well have happened to some
beset voyager on this coast. But all this is not history. Perhaps some reader
can brush these speculations aside and give us the derivation and meaning of
“Point Abino” ?SURVEY OF LAKE ERIE, 1789.
369
ings at 100 yards from the shore 2 and 3 fathoms water and
a soft bottom, but within that distance ... 7, 8, 5, 6, 3
feet water and a hard bottom. Could not measure along
shore, having no beach or road to walk on; therefore meas-
ured by log; distance, 20miles.
At 4 p. m. arrived at Presque Isle. Found a party of
Americans and Indians with flour; they were bound to
Niagara. Latter part of the day the wind hauled to w. s. w.;
68miles from Buffaloe Creek to Presque Isle, but appears
to be that distance (say 60 miles) measured in a straight
line from Lake Erie.
Thursday, July 7.—Winds w. s. w. at 6 a. m. Continued
the survey. Sounded the harbor (of Presque Isle) and
found the channel for vessels running along the high bank.
Going into the harbor (keeping the bank on your left hand)
on your right hand lays a shoal, formerly, in 1785, an island,
now sunk 2 or 3 feet under water. When in the harbor you
have three fathoms. All to the right hand is shoal bearing
n. w., going into the harbor. This harbor is sheltered from
all winds and sea. From the s. e. to the n. w. lay a bar
across the harbor with 5, 7, 9, 8, 11 feet water. Within this
bar are 4, 5 and 3 fathoms; the bottom in general soft. On
your left hand, going up the basin, lay the old fort and two
creeks with water sufficient to turn a mill. The land very
good. The distance across the basin from the old fort is Y
of a mile. This place lies in latitude 41 deg. 39 min. n. by
observation. [By Adlum’s & Wallis’ map the old fort at
Presque Isle appears to be in latitude 42 deg. 7 min., and I
believe it is laid down from Mr. Ellicott’s accurate observa-
tions.]
Wednesday, July 8.—Winds s. w. People employed in
surveying the ground in and about the old fort of Presque
Isle. Up the creek next the fort is exceeding good land; the
woods in general, oak and chestnut; the oak is fit for ship
building; the situation of the fort very pleasant.
There is an American taking up land about 40 miles east-
ward of the fort, and making mills. The extent of the out-
lines of the fort is 2,640 feet; a rising ground. From this
fort to Fort Pitt is about 5-days’ march. Finished the sur-870
SURVEY OF LAKE ERIE, 1789■
[Reduced about one-half.]
vey of the harbor and the fort. This is a most excellent place
for ship building and a settlement. It is 69 miles from Fort
Erie. This evening there arrived a boat from Detroit in
search of flour.
Thursday, July 9.—Winds w. s. w. Set off with the
boats and surveyed 4 miles, when the wind and sea rose so
as to oblige us to secure the boats. The variation at this
place 2 deg. 48 min. westerly.SURVEY OF LAKE ERIE, 1789.
371
Friday, July 10.—Winds n. n. e. Fresh breeze. At 5
a. m. set off with the boats. The Corporal and people in the
large boat not managing her properly, laid her in the
trough of the sea ; and she filled with water before they got
out of the surf. Was obliged to haul up the boats and dry
the provisions—biscuit and flour much damaged.
Saturday, July 11.—Winds variable and light. At 5
a. m. set off with the boats and continued the survey.
Sounded along shore and found good holding ground at the
distance of 200 yards, 2 and 3 fathoms water. Found little
and no beach. Chained along shore for miles, then was
obliged to get into the boat and measure by log. At the dis-
tance oi 21 miles from Presque Isle up the lake found
Pennsylvania line to the edge of the lake, running north and
south. This line was finished in 1786. The bank in general
high and clay. Exceeding rich ground all along this shore.
Measured by log ijy2 miles this day. Course along shore
w. s. w. Entirely a straight shore. Secured the boats in
a small river, which is called Coneaut by the Indians. A few
Indian houses a few miles up. [21 y2 miles the total distance
from Presque Isle.]
Sunday, July 12.—Winds w. s. w. Hard gale, could
not go on the lake with the boats. At 9 a. m. went up the
river Coneaut; found the land on the left going up, remark-
ably good; on the right, swampy. About 2 miles up the
river found some Indian houses and about four families of
Indians. There also found a party of Americans (7 in num-
ber) on their way f. Niagara. This river from Presqu’
Isle is 22 miles. Latitude 4i°.3i.
Monday, July 13.—Winds w. b. s., hard gale; could not
go on the lake with boats, a heavy sea from the westward.
The wood up this creek white and red oak chestnut Black
Walnut and Butternut.
After you are in the river there is two fathoms water but
at entrance not 3 feet, owing to the sea beating in the sand.
Tuesday, 14th Jutyv—W. s. w. hard gale with a heavy
sea from the westward. Could not move the boats on the
lake.
This day the surveyor laid down his work on a scale of 3372	SURVEY OF LAKE ERIE; 1789.
miles to two inches, up to Coneaut river. Up this river is 3.
fine place for a settlement. The swamp on the right hand
going up this creek, extends back about 500 yards; then
high land remarkably good. The white oak here very fit for
shipbuilding. The Indian village on your left is called by the
French ville Joye.
Wednesday, July 15.—Winds w. s. w., fresh gale, with a
sea from the westward. Could not move with the boats on
the lake. Latter part of the day more moderate.
Thursday, July 16.—Winds w. s. w. light breeze. At 5
a. m. set off with the boats and continued the survey. Began
to chain along shore, for 3 miles; the road then getting bad,
was obliged to measure by log. The soundings along shore
exceeding good at 300 yards from the shore 2 & 3 fathoms
water soft bottom but within that distance, 11, 8, 9, 7 & 4
feet.
At 12 m. arrived at the river Ouscubolu [Ashtabula], ten
miles from the river Coneaut. The entrance of this river 3 &
4 feet water; but after you are in the river, you find 2 or 3
fathoms water, the land exceeding good. The timber mostly
white oak, chestnut and maple. Measured by log this day 17
miles; course w. s. w. A straight shore.
Friday, 17th July, 1789.—Winds w. s. w., a fresh breeze.
At 5 a. m. set off with the boats and continued the survey.
The surveyor with 4 hands on shore chaining, the remainder
working the boats. The soundings at 400 yards distance
from the shore, 2, 3 & 4 fathoms, clay bottom, the land high;
clay banks; back from the lake very good and rich. The
timber oak & chestnut in general the oak for shipbuilding.
At 4 p. m. arrived at the grand river. Sounded on the
river & found 2^2 fathoms, soft bottom. Measured by log
and chain this day 15y* miles, course w. s. w. w.. Grand
river is 23 miles distant from the river ouscubola. Variation
20.40 westerly.
Saturday, 18th July.—Winds s-. w., a hard gale, heavy
sea from the westward. Employed in sounding up this river
(grand river) for 3 miles. Found the soundings from 2
fathoms to 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 feet water. The land on each side
of the river rich with large meadows.SURVEY OF LAKE ERIE, 1789.
373
There are 4 small islands about one or two miles up from
the mouth of the river. The distance across at the entrance
of the mouth of the river is 200 feet. The soundings over
the bar, coming into the river, 9 feet in the channel; out of
the channel 8, 7, 6 & 5 feet. The outer edge of the bar is
about 300 yards distant from the river. The channel runs in
s. by w. without the bar are 2 & 3 fathoms water. This river
is a good place for a settlement & for ship building. The
timber is white oak> black walnut and butternut.
Sunday 19th, at Grand river. W. s. w. winds, a fresh
gale with a sea from the westward. On your left hand, at
entering the river, is a commanding ground, which formerly
has been cleared; its distance from the mouth of the river is
403 feet. This ground is very fit for a fortification. The
variation of the needle at this place is 2°.30 westerly.
Squally with rain, could not move on the lake with the boats.
Monday, 20th July.—Winds s. w. fresh gale, with a sea
from w. s. w. Could not move with the boats on the lake.
Took the altitude of the sun, and found this river (at the
mouth) in latitude 4i°.20 north.
Tuesday, 21st July.—Winds w. s. w., light breeze. At 4
a. m. set off with the boats and began to measure by log.
Soundings along the shore very good. At the distance of
300 yards from the shore, 2 & 3 fathoms water within that
distance, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5 feet water, good holding-ground.
At 4 p. m. arrived at Cayahoga river. Its distance from
the grand river is 25 miles. Sounded the river & bar, found
on the [ ? bar] 9 feet of water; in the river 2^2 fathoms soft
bottom. This is an excellent harbour for small vessels of
40, 50 & 60 tons burthen. Mr. Wm. Wilson of Pitts Burgh
says that a few years ago he was at Cayahoga, when the sand
bar was so high, they were obliged to drag their boat across
it, but on his return the same season (says that toward the
autumn) there were 2 or 3 feet of water on the bar. All the
mouths of the lake rivers are subject to such changes of their
bars. Measured by log this day 25 miles; course w. s. w.
s.
Wednesday, 22d July.—Winds s. e., light breeze. At 5
a. m. set off with the boats. Soundings along this shore 2374
SURVEY OF LAKE ERIE, 1789.
fathoms, close to the shore. The shore steep and rocky. No
such thing as saving a boat or vessel on this shore in case of
accident for 19 miles. The land apparently good. At 7
a. m. arrived at Rocky river, distant from Cayahoga 6 miles.
I have certain information that along this Rocky River there
are grind stones of the most excellent quality. Sounded the
bar and found 9 feet water, sufficient to carry any small
vessel into the river; after you are in the river there are 2
fathoms water. At 9 a. m. set off with the boats. Measured
by log this day 24 miles; courses as follows: w. 3 miles, w.
by n. 6 miles, w. n. w. 6 miles, & w. s. w. w. 9 miles. At
4 p. m. arrived at the river Reneshouse [Black river] & se-
cured the boats.
Thursday, July 23d.—Winds s. s. w. light breeze. At 4
a. m. set off with the boats. The land in general low.
Sounded, and found the water not so steep as along the other
parts of the shore, it being shoal to the distance of one mile;
a sandy bottom. At the distance of a mile, 2, 3 & 4 fathoms
water, clay bottom. A great deal of meadow land along this
part of the shore. At 12 m. passed Vermillion river, and at
3 p. m. arrived at the river Huron. Went up to see the vil-
lage, found it about 7 miles up the river situated on a rising
ground. They have in the village 3 priests. The land ex-
tremely good, with large meadows along the river. Meas-
ured by log and chain this day 17J4 miles, courses w. J4 s.
10 miles, w. by n. 7J^ miles.
Friday, 24th July.—Winds s. w., fresh breeze. At 5
a. m. set off with the boats; surveyor on shore with 4 hands
chaining. Sounding along the shore shoal water to the dis-
tance of Y\ of a mile, sandy bottom, then 2 & 3 fathoms clay
bottom. All along this shore low land with meadows. At
12 m. arrived at Sandusky. Sounded the entrance of the
lake, & found two fathoms water in the channel. By obser-
vation, found this place in latitude 4i°.i5 n. The deep water
going into Sandusky lake lays to the left. After you are
over the bar you have 4 & 5 fathoms. The channel runs
n. e. & s. w. From the river Huron to this place (the en-
trance of Sandusky lake) is 9 miles course w. n. w. n.
Saturday, 25th July.—Winds s. w. At 5 a. m. set offSURVEY OF LAKE ERIE, 1789.
375
with the boats, the light boat to sound the lake and the large
boat, with the surveyor, to measure round the lake, measur-
ing by log. The soundings over the lake, 2 & 3 fathoms,
soft bottom until within half a mile of the shores; then you
have 10, 9, 8 & 7 feet. This day sounded and measured up
to Sandusky river.
Sunday, 26th July.—Winds n. e. fresh gale. At 5 a. m.
set off with the boats and sounded up the river Sandusky,
found 9 & 10 feet of water. The sides of this river are full
of marshes, and next the marshes good interval lands. At 10
a. m. returned to the lake. Employed the boats measuring
and sounding. Found the soundings from 2 to 3 fathoms in
the channel at the entrance of the lake, out of the channel,
10, 8, 7, & 6 feet. The land round about this lake very good.
A number of large meadows. The timber in general hickory
and oak, with some chestnut. This is a very good place for
shipbuilding.
Monday, July 27th.—Winds n. e., fresh breeze. At 5
A. m. set off with the boats. Continued to measure by log
and sound, found the sounding regular; the land low, and
exceeding rich. There are two French families settled by
the entrance of this lake. Found the circumference of the
lake 33j^ miles, its width 4miles. This lake is an excel-
lent place for a settlement. Found the variation of the
needle 2°.28'w.
Tuesday, 28th July.—Winds easterly, moderate breeze.
At 5 a. m. set off with the boats. Continued to measure by
log, there being no beach. At 7 a. m. abreast of Sandusky
Island. Its distance from the main land is 2j4 miles. The
channel between the Island and the main, is called Sandusky
channel. Soundings through this channel from 7, 5, 6, 3
fathoms. From the main shore it is shoal at the distance of
y2 mile from the shore, sandy bottom. At 10 a. m. passed
by the Bass Islands. Measured by log this day 25miles;
courses as follows: n. by w. 4 miles; w. n. w. 4 miles; n.
w. by n. 3y* miles; s. w. ioj^ miles; n. w. 4y^ miles. The
land very good with large meadows.
„ Wednesday, 29th July.—Winds s. w., a moderate breeze.
At 4 a. m. set off with the boats. Continued the survey.376
SURVEY OF LAKE ERIE, 1789.
Found all along this shore a shoal, a general flat to the dis-*
tance of 1 mile from shore a sandy bottom. The land
swampy, with large meadows overflowed with water in front.
Measured by log this day 20miles, courses n. w. 3% miles,
w. n. w. 1^/2 miles, n. w. 3^ miles. At 3 p. m. arrived at
miami Bay. The land about 2 miles back from the marshes
exceeding good (20^2 miles).
Thursday, 30th July.—Winds s. w. fresh gale. At 5
a. m. set off with the boats, and continued the survey; one
boat to measure by the log, the other to sound. Found this
bay (Miami) to be 10 miles round; its depth of water 2 & 3
fathoms; the channel going into the bay, to n. w. of Cedar
Island, which stands in the mouth of the bay. Measured
from the Miami Bay to the mouth of the Detroit River by
log, 25 miles; courses n. w. 4 miles; n. e. 15, n. e. by n. 4,
n. n. e. 2. At 7 p. m. arrived at the mouth of Detroit River
(25 miles).
Friday, 31st July.—Winds s. w., fresh gale. The sur-
veyor and four hands on shore chaining and ascertaining the
distance across the narrows leading to Detroit; the small
boat employed in sounding. Found not less than 2^/2 fath-
oms in the channel to the westward of the Isle of Bois
Blanch, so that vessels may go up the west channel as well as
they can on the east. On the east side of this island you have
7 fathoms.
Saturday, August the first, 1789. Winds s. w., fresh
breeze. At 12 m. took the altitude of the sun. Found this
place (mouth of Detroit river) in latitude 4i°.52 n.; set off
with the boats and at 6 p. m. arrived at Detroit. Latitude of
Detroit 42°.i3 m.