Production Note
Cornell University Library produced this volume
to replace the irreparably deteriorated
original. It was scanned using Xerox software
and equipment at 600 dots per inch resolution
and compressed prior to storage using CCITT
Group 4 compression. The digital data were used
to create Cornell's replacement volume on paper
that meets the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1984. The
production of this volume was supported in part
by the New York State Program for the
Conservation and Preservation of Library
Research Materials and the Xerox Corporation.
Digital file copyright by Cornell University
Library 1994.A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
OF THE YEAR 1817.
BEING THE JOURNAL OF
CAPTAIN RICHARD LANGSLOW
OF THE HONORABLE EAST INDIA SERVICE.*
Left New London, Connecticut, at 8 p. m., Wednesday,
Sept, io, 1817. A shameful detention at night at New
Haven as Capt. Bunker of the Connecticut determined to
wait till morning for passengers from Commencement.
(Yale College.)
Sept. 11. Penned a letter for insertion in the New
York Evening Post on the above misconduct. Reached
New York at 6 p. m., saw Messrs. Winthrup & McCormick.
I went to the play “Bunker Hill” and “Robinson Crusoe.”
A most wretched performance, the theater good, tolerably
filled; Barnes the only tolerable actor, I recollect him and
his wife on the Plymouth Boards.
Friday, Sept. 12. At Gibson Hotel where I sleep the
thermometer in my close bed-room is 85 degrees. Dined
*'The original journal copied by his son, Henry A. Langslow of Rochester,
N. Y., in 1896, at the suggestion of Erastus Darrow; read at a meeting of the
Rochester Historical Society, April, 1896; copy presented to the Buffalo His-
torical Society by the Rochester Historical Society, George May Elwood, presi-
dent. Now first published.113
A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
with Mr. McCormick and went in the evening to West's
Equestrian Expedition; tolerably entertaining.
Saturday, Sept. 13. Saw yesterday the American Mu-
seum and spoke to Mr. Skudder about Capt. Wilson’s elec-
tric eel. Finding there is no chance of my having Mr.
Featherstonehough for a companion in the steam-boat on
Tuesday, suddenly resolved to prosecute my route this after-
noon and at 5 p. m. repair on board the Richmond steam-
ship from Jas. Winthrup’s where I dined. The boat well
regulated. Left a line for Capt. Douglass at West Point.
Mr. & Mrs. Livingston passengers. At Poughkeepsie the
scenery beautiful on each side. In spite of the deprivation
of light distinguished the high hills of Neversink, at one
time approximating the river close at each side sufficiently
to form an idea of the romantic view they present by day-
light ; slept well and comfortably, but somewhat ailing.
Sunday, Sept. 14. A pleasant change in the weather, a
little rain and the air cool and bracing. Mr. Raynaud of
Schenectady a passenger, a refugee from St. Domingo in
1794; had suffered much. He is an acquaintance of Mr.
Featherstonehaugh’s. At half past 4 landed at Albany,
called on Mr. Chas. Smith to whom I delivered Mr. Bu-
chanan’s (vice consul’s) letter. He assisted me with advice
and information and saw me off at 6 in a two-horse stage
for Schenectady which was reached before 9. Got tea, etc.,
and went to bed. Albany is pretty, the State Street fine and
the views in the neighborhood interesting, the road to
Schenectady rough. Left this pHce before 6 a. m. and
crossed a fine bridge to the north side of the Mohawk, in
the Albany stage for Utica, more of a wagon than a coach;
fare $6.00. Changed at Amsterdam, 15 miles; a poor place,
an excellent mill-stfeam; town improving; Johnstown or
Canawauga, 5 miles. The church was built by Sir Wm.
Johnson who with Sir John Johnson is held in detestation
by the Americans for ravages committed on this and other
towns by the Tories and Canadian Indians between 1772 &
1780. Two miles before we came to Johnstown is Tribe’s
Hill, from whence is an extensive and very beautiful pros-
pect. The turnpike runs all the way to Utica on the northOF THE YEAR 1817. -	113
side of the river. Reached Canajoharie to dinner between
12 & 1; 15 miles from Johnstown and 49 north-west from
Albany. Dined comfortably for half a dollar. Started
again at half past one, raining fast, consequently I was pre-
vented seeing as much as I could wish of this interesting
scenery, the river in sight most of the way, but very shal-
low; a few islands. I saw no boats passing. Village of
Palastine [Palatine] 6 miles from Canajoharie, a small
place. Little Falls 20 miles from Palastine & 74 from
Albany, beautiful in the extreme, the falls pretty and the
road over and between rocks truly romantic. There are
several locks here by which the boats proceed round the
falls. All very interesting and well worth seeing. The
pleasing and elegant village of Herkimer 7 miles from Little
Falls and 78 from Albany, I was delighted with. We
changed horses at 6 here but I could not see much of it as
the rain continued. Passed over the bridge and reached
Utica on the south side of the Mohawk at past 8; a good
inn Baggs’. Much fatigued and sore from the violent jolt-
ing; as the stages go on at 3 a. m. I deem it prudent to halt
till the following morning, my late complaint having re-
turned.	'
Utica, Sept. 16. Employed writing my journal. Dis-
patched a long letter to N. London written chiefly on the
steamboat on Sunday. Went to a Doctor Wolcott’s and got
some T: theban; he had no T. cinnamon; took a large dose.
My watch inspected by a watchmaker, find the hands were
loose,, done by the motion of the stage. Went to the Union
Bank and got cash for $20.00 in bills to avoid taking small
bills on my route; also got two pieces of gold changed for
$11%. Walked round the town which is prettily built,
rather extensive, no remains of old Fort Schuyler. Whites-
borough, distance 4 miles, and Rome 12 miles; no particular
object worth noticing. Three Scots gents from Boston re-
turning from the Falls, very pleasant. Messrs. Wood and
Seaman gone on to Geneva, the former left a handkerchief
with English letters. I take it on for him. Obtained great
information from Mr. Seaman, he lived generally at Wash-
ington Hall, N. Y. Find a portion of the mercury in the114	A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
thermometer shaken up to 180 degrees, obliged to use boil-
ing water to reunite the lower part to the upper. My tele-
scope also much disordered and a little broken, all by the
astonishing violence of the motion of the stage on the rough
roads. Inspected the boats used on the Mohawk. They
answer Schultz’s* description. Determine to take the Buf-
falo Road. It is nearer by 25 miles than the Ridge Road to
Lewiston and Fort Niagara. The Steamboat ceased to run
farther than the Genesee River from Sackett’s Harbor on
the 5th inst, so abandon all thoughts of navigating Lake
Ontario as the weather is unpromising and there is no public
conveyance to Oswego.
Wednesday, Sept. 17. Called up at 2 and started in the
stage at 3 a. m. Near day-break when we reached the vil-
lage of New Hartford four or five miles from Utica and
soon after by violent jolts the leather. strap supporting the
carriage on one of the fore-springs gave way and nearly
upset us. Delayed some time in fixing a long thick spar
lengthways under the carriage to support it, and now hav-
ing lost the little vibration of the spring we are worse off
than ever. Clinton College in sight; 2 miles on the left
* Travels on an Inland Voyage through the States of New York, Penn-
sylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee.	.	.	. ' performed in the
years 1807 and 1808.	... by Christian Schultz, Jun. Esq. Two vols.,
New York, 1810. The best record of travel and observation in America, for
the period named. Schultz visited Buffalo, Niagara Falls, etc., in August,
.1807, and made full and graphic record of what he saw. In 1809 James
Fenimore Cooper was on the Niagara, but we have no detailed narrative of
liis sojourn. From 1812 to 1815 the war put a stop to tourist travel into the
region. In 1815 the procession was continued by Levi Beardsley, whose
Reminiscences, etc. (New York, 1852), give many valuable glimpses of local
conditions in the year named. The next year came David Thomas, whose
Travels through the Western Country in the Summer of 1816 (Auburn,
N. Y., 1819), contains some account of the new Buffalo, but not of Niagara
Falls. These and the valueless Travels in North America of “George Phillips’’
(Dublin, 1822), bring us to the time of Capt. Langslow’s visit. The year 1817
marked the beginning of a new era of tourist travel to the Niagara. Of visitors
to the region in that year, who recorded their impressions in books, were
E. Montule (A Voyage to North America, and the West Indies, in 1817, London,
1821), Joseph Sansom (Sketches, etc., New York, 1817), Frederick Tolfrey {The
Sportsman in Canada, 2 vols., London, 1845), and President James Monroe,
whose Tour, recorded by S. Putnam Waldo (Hartford, 1818), had brought the
distinguished tourist to Buffalo and the Niagara in August, less than a month
before Capt. Langslow. Of books describing the region at that time, and for
some years to come, Schultz’s work was by all odds the best.115
OF THE YEAR 1817.
and near to it is Paris. Manchester is miles and Vernon
17 miles from Utica, which we did not reach to breakfast
until 9 o’clock owing to our accident. Four or five miles
farther enter Oneida Castle, a straggling Indian village, ex-
tends two or three miles up a very steep hill, the gents
obliged to walk up it, saw several Indians, compaction
lighter than I expected, their dress curious; many with
English hats, their hair long, blacx and straight.
Lenox, a long scattered town 12 miles from Vesnon.
Sullivan two miles distant on the left; immense woody
tracts on each hand, down even to the edges of the road;
hills in all directions covered with trees. Romantic scenery,
road very bad. Passed Canaseraga and soon after reached
the village of Chittinango and changed horses; a steep rise
of three miles from the town, on the top a fine fresh spring,
a few yards from Clark’s Inn. We visited it and tasted the
pure element; weather warm; a fine view of Oneida Lake
from the heights; it appears about 5 miles distant, stretch-
ing to the north. Passed through Manlius, formerly Sinai,
and Jamesville, two new villages about 5 miles apart, be-
tween 4 & 5; at the entrance of the latter on the hill whence
you descend to the village is a tasty house and very beautiful
garden lately occupied by a Mr. Sanford, an enviable resi-
dence. At 6 p. m. to dinner Onondaga Hollow, only 50
miles from Utica. At the entrance of it is a very handsome
stone house of Judge Foreman; soon dispatch our meal and
walk up the steep out of town; very hilly and woody; the
evening closing in, adieu to the prospect; with the darkness
came rain. At Marcellus, 10 from Onondaga and 6 from
Skeneatles, left some passengers, hence to our lodgings, it
poured torrents. I have been unwell all the afternoon, in
spite of laudanum; obliged to make up my mind to halt at
Skeneatles for the next day; we did not reach it till past
11 o’clock, 4 hours later than customary. Find myself in-
capacitated for proceeding by the morning’s stage. .
Thursday, Sept. 18. At Skeneatles. A little relieved by
a good night’s rest, take laudanum frequently.
The Inn (kept by Mr. Sherwood) and is no great thing, is
within ten yards of the lake, a pretty view and was I well116
A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
should certainly try to take a few trout and pickeral in which
the lake abounds. Passed the morning in writing and at
noon sent off a letter to N. London which will go across
the country from Albany to Hartford and arrive I hope in
4 or 5 days.
Friday, Sept. 19. After a good night’s rest and feeling
better for the cinnamon and laudanum I got at a Dr. Colvin’s
yesterday, got into the stage at 5 a. m. and proceeded over
a fair road to Auburn, 7 miles; a flourishing town; hand-
some courthouse and jail underneath it, building; rich soil;
much cultivation, fine weather. Proceeded to Cayuga on
the lake of that name, 9 miles from Auburn (which is on the
Owasco). Breakfasted on bass and perch from the lake and
crossed the fine new bridge over the lake, one mile and 8
rods in length, toll for the team 1 dollar and 50 cents.
Seneca 3 miles, a handsome town; in a state of improve-
ment; a capital hotel where I saw Mr. Seaman. Delivered
to him Mr. Wood’s handkerchief containing letters which he
had left at Utica. Walked over the bridge on the creek,
which with the canal is repairing. Lake distance 10 miles,
along the bank of the Seneca River to Waterloo 4 miles,
lately built and named in compliment to Wellington; rapidly
improving; many buildings proceeding; country fine and
soil fertile. At 1 reached Geneva, 7 miles from Waterloo,
here I saw Mr. Seaman, not the Seaman above mentioned ;
two capital churches, Presbyterian and Episcopal, situated
on the lake, a most beautiful place.
At 4 p. m. reached Canandaigua on the lake of that
name, 16 miles from Geneva and 208 from Albany; a most
interesting place. The buildings superior; dined heartily
and feel much better. No stage for Buffalo or Lewiston
till Monday. A Mr. DeForrest from York, U. Canada, has
offered me a conveyance, took an airing in his comfortable
carriage and amongst other fine houses passed a Mr.
Granger’s, the handsomest in the place. I recollected that
he was an acquaintance of Mr. Coles and called on my re-
turn; he was from home, but M*rs. Granger chatted with
me for half an hour. There is here the handsomest collec-
tion of houses I have seen in any place of its extent, gen-OF THE YEAR 1817.
117
erally built distinct in the village style; two churches and
a court-house; the Inn good and a handsome building from
whence is a view of the lake to the left. As Mr. De Forrest
talks of starting early with his daughter in the carriage,
retire to bed early.
Saturday, Sept. 20. Wrote a letter to N. London and
left it at the post-office as I passed it at 10 o’clock in Mr.
De Forrest’s carriage. A daughter of the Mr. Mills who
keeps the Inn at Canandaigua accompanies us to go to
school at York, Canada; so our party consists of four be-
sides the driver, who is to be Mr. De Forrest’s clerk. Fine
weather and road, but hilly and a delightful country.
Passed through E. Bloomfield and soon after reached W.
Bloomfield, a beautiful village 13 miles from Canandaigua,
where we halted to refresh on peaches. Here Mr. and Mrs.
Mills took leave of‘ their daughter and returned to Canan-
daigua. Moved on to Rowe’s Inn, 14 miles from Canan-
daigua, and dined on Roast-beef. At 5 passed Lima and
soon after Avon, where we were ferryed over the Genesee
River, pay toll for carriage and all 3 shillings. A bridge
is began to be built, the two piers of stone nearly finished
50 yards across. Reached Caledonia at 8, a good Inn and
fair bed,, the landlord’s name Bowen.
Sunday, Sept. 21. Off at daybreak, bad road, did not
reach Batavia, 17 miles, till near 11 to breakfast; 265 miles
from Albany and 40 from Buffalo, a poor Inn by W.
Keyes. The Tonawanda Creek passes by it with a good
bridge across which leads to Leicester, 22 miles. At Ba-
tavia is build a good Episcopal Church, but at present one
edifice suffices for court-house, meeting-house, jail and
tavern. Proceeded at noon and reached Pembroke, 11 miles,
a decent Inn. . Road very bad, mostly log causeway; log
houses numerous. Passed through the long and fertile
township of Clarence, entered Niagara County about 4 p. m.
At 7 drank tea at Major Miller’s Inn, 11 Mile Creek, being
that distance from Buffalo. The road better, and being fine
moonlight got into Buffalo soon after 10; knocked them up
at Pomerot’s [Pomeroy’s] as Landing’s [Landon’s] Inn
was too full to accommodate us all; poor attendance.118	A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
Monday, Sept. 22. Unwell. .	.	. Packets for Erie
uncertain; one expected to sail from Fort Erie (Capt.
Baird’s) in a day or two. Moved toward the river at 10;
paid our extravagant bill, two thirds of which was my share,
2 dollars. The beach road so heavy that Mr. De Forrest
and I walked the whole way, near 3 miles, much fatigued.
I left 10 pieces of clothes at Mr. Landing’s [Landon’s] Inn
to be washed against my return, as I do not mean to go to
Pomeroy’s. Crossed the Ferry from Black Rock to Erie be-
tween 11 & 12. Twelve shillings for the carriage and 2
shillings besides for each person. The rain coming down
heavy. Mr. De Forrest pointed out to me all the interesting
objects. I feel very unwell indeed; our road close along
Niagara River; the falls 16 miles from the Ferry House.
Passed Chippaway, saw some soldiers of the 70th and an
officer, a company under Capt. Swinney posted at the, small
fort here. About 5 miles above the falls saw the mist and
heard the roar soon after reached the rapids. The rain con-
tinues heavy, our view obstructed. About 4 p. m. caught a
view of the falls. Too unwell to descend to them, even had
the weather been sufficiently favorable. At 5 reached the
Falls Inn kept by a Mr. Forsyth. Here Mr. De Forrest de-
termined to stay the night, his horses being knocked up.
The weather miserable. I found myself so unwell that had
the weather even allowed us, I would not have descended to-
the falls, so determined to take the stage as it passed for
Newark* and inspect the falls on my way back.
At 6 the stage arrived, I got into it; my only com-
panion a most gentlemanly man, proved to be Capt. Reed
of the U. S. Navy, well known to Mr. and Mrs. Stewart.
This was pleasing particularly as I was so ill, the quantity
of laudanum rendered me almost delirious. The rain pour-
ing, coach cover a farce. ^ Reached Fort George between
8 & 9 and went to the Inn kept by Abm. Rogers, got tea etc,
very comfortably. Obliged to take more opiate in the night.
Tuesday, Sept. 23. Breakfasted in company with Capt.
Reed, who soon after went across to the American Fort.
Very unwell from the laudanum, but better in other respects.
Now Niagara, Ont.OF THE YEAR 1817.
119
Took my letters to Mr. Wybault (the Company Gen’l) &
Col. Evans, the former absent, expected home to-night, the
latter with Mrs. Evans very glad to see me. I promised to
dine at the Mess if well enough, returned to the Inn and laid
down. Dreadful weather. Mr. De Forrest arrived about
noon, no steamboat from Kingston in, better after taking a
nap. Talked with a Major Davies of the 99th (Fort George,
Newark or W. Niagara).
Tuesday, Sept. 23. Dined at the Mess of the 70th Regt.,
to which Col. Evans took me in a neat wagon and pair. Met
a Lieut. Goldfrap, brother to him I formerly knew in the
Company’s Service & Buffs, he told me his brother had
taken orders and got a good living in Norfolk; promised
to dine with Lt. G. at the Mess to-morrow; a very pleasant
party, Capt. Green (just going to relieve Capt. Swinney at
Chippaway), Lts. White, McCoy, Sanson, Dr. Turnden, etc.,
the latter at Capt. Evans request had called to talk to me
and now gave me 10 powders of the Creta compos, cinna-
mon, etc. Drank very freely of Port only; Claret, etc.
were going in profusion. They live well and have a good
Mess Room. The Barracks (not men and officers) are in-
famous; left the Mess with Col. Evans between 10 & 11
and had a dreadful walk to the Inn, where the Col. left me,
walked through water up to the knee, the rain poured all
the time and nearly a mile to go. The wine preserved me
from a cold and I had a better night.
Wednesday, Sept. 24. Weather somewhat clearer,
passed the morning at Col. Evans, Mrs. Evans, a very pleas-
ant woman, Scots I suspect; he is from Staffordshire, much
conversation on that and adjoining counties. The Col. knew
the Phillips’ & Leakes near Shifnal, Slaneys, etc.; and many
Shrewsbury people. Mrs. Evans knew Mrs. Brown and
family intimately and declared that about 2 years ago the
all-accomplished Mrs. Brown made a runaway match with
a Mr. Finch, a man in all respects inferior to her, and that
Mr. Finch has since purchased into the Life or Horse-
Guards. Took my leave of the friendly, hospitable couple
at 3 o’clock, the weather being fine and visited the works at
Massasauga, the opposite point to Fort Niagara, a strong120	A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
little star fort with a block tower in the center as a last hold
after the American fashion. Better to-day for the Port
Wine, intend to repeat it to-night. In my way to the Mess
visited Fort George about a mile higher up than Massasauga
and Commanded from the American side; it has been cur-
tailed one half. Gen’l. Brock lies under the flagg-staff in
the highest Bastion, and I walked over the grave of this
gallant soldier. Found on reaching the Mess, that Col.
Grant the Company Officer has returned from his excursion
from Grand River, he soon after joined the party with Capt.
Heixley (formerly of the 87th), Capt. Tredenniek, etc. The
Col. paid me great attention and pressed me very hard to
dine to-morrow but I have resolved not to loose the oppor-
tunity of the stage. Heard much of poor Blake who had
visited the port, Quebec, etc., and in all places conspicuous
and rediculous by his red mustach and scarlet dress, but I
understood he had been treated every where with great hos-
pitality. The Col. had seen him. at Kingston. We had
much conversation regards many Bengal officers the Col.
knew. He has a brother on the Madras establishment. Left
the Mess between 9 & 10 and called on Mr. Wybault on my
way home, a very gentlemanly young man, regretted much
his being absent, pressed me hard to stay, etc. .
Thursday, Sept. 25. Rose early after a bad night and
packed up. Breakfasted for the last time with Mr. De For-
rest’s family. They were just starting for York in a Sloop
hired for the Trip. Mr. Wybault called on me and brought
a letter for Mr. Asst. D. Com. Gen’l Stanton at Fort Erie,
who he said might prove useful to me. At 9 crossed the
Ferry to Fort Niagara. Capt. Reed was there, he intro-
duced me to his relation Mr. Smith (the engineer officer su-
perintending the improvements of the fort), and to Col.
Pinckney, the Comt of the Garrison. Took a hasty view of
the works and some of the soldiers who were paraded. Has-
tened.back as I knew the stage was waiting, just in time for
it. Ferry between half a mile and ^4 broad, took half an
hour to cross and return, exclusive of the time I staid. The
works at Fort Niagara going on slowly, we were long in
passing of them and only delivered them up on the Peace.OF THE YEAR 1817.
121
Started on the stage at 10 a. m. with 3 rough companions,
one a Scotchman from Jamaica, seeking an establishment
in the sugar boiling line. Going to Pittsburgh (my route),
and eventually to New Orleans. Passed through Queens-
town, a poor town, in a hollow 7 miles from • Ft. George.
Lewiston, a pret-ty: looking place on the opposite side of the
Niagara River; ascended the heights and passed over the
battle ground about a mile from the town, the remains of
several small works and redoubts. A tall pole like a flag-
staff erected on the spot where Gen’l Brock fell; about 300
yards from the road on the right hand, a little farther on is a
block house and out work, 400 yds. on the right of the road
and apparently newly erected.
At half past 12 reached Forsyth’s Inn, 5 miles from
Queenstown and 4 from Chippaway; got a boy at Forsyth’s
to accompany me to the falls. Surveyed them first from
Table Rock and descended about 30 or 40 ft. with some ap-
prehension. The road onward toward the falls so bad, steep
and wet that I could not get within 500 yards of them by
this route, so after surveying them from a distance re-
ascended the ladder and returned to the stage, having been
absent nearly two hours. How much astonished and grati-
fied it would be needless for me to attempt to describe, but
certainly the most wonderful and astonishing sight I ever
beheld. For a description see Schultz and many other trav-
elers, it is far beyond my powers. Half way between For-
syth’s and Chippaway the hinder axle tree of the stage broke
in two by a severe jolt. I committed my Portmanteau to a
person passing in a wagon and set out on foot to make the
best of my way to the Barrack at Chippaway where I was
certain t>f finding certain of my own cloth to assist me, Capt.
Sweeney and Lieut. Brown of the 70th. About a mile from
that place is what they call the burning spring. I descended
to examine it close to the edge of the Niagara River. It is
situated under the ruins of Clark’s mills near Bridgewater,
which was burrit down by the “enemy” during the war. The
spring is covered over and from the water is a leaden pipe
Brought up into the building with a common brass cock at-
tached. The woman turned the cock for the gas to escape122	A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
and placing a lighted candle at the mouth it immediately
took flame and emitted a fine light like a Torch or Carbonic
Gas. This was used while the Mills existed to light the
works below. I tasted the water and it was strongly im-
pregnated with sulphur. The stage here overtook us, the
driver having by some mode got it to go and we soon.
reached Chippaway and I recalled my Portmanteau and pro-
ceeded. Did not stop at the Barracks but observed the
works thrown up for the protection of the bridge, now dis-
tinguished from another higher up, by a term, King’s
Bridge. There are 2 redoubts that cover and protect the
passage of it, under flows the dark river of Chippaway,
which does not mix with the clear stream of Niagara but
passes 2y2 miles to the falls and is precipitated over un-
changed and unmixed. You observe the difference in color
in the falling torrents with astonishment.
Four miles further on our spliced axle again gave way"
and I took a seat in a wagon that was passing and was
kindly offered me. Traveled on 4 or 5 miles to Palmer’s.
Inn, 6 miles from the Ferry, where the stage driver hired an
open wagon and after an hour’s wet and cold rode through
a constant shower of rain and reached the Ferry about y
o’clock and with great difficulty I got housed in a Mr.
Hardson’s Inn, a little beyond the ferry house, but a much
superior one. Slept in a room for the first time with 3 other
people. While they are preparing breakfast I write this on
Friday the 26th.	...
Resolved to continue to Fort Erie 2 miles to consult with
Mr. Stanton. Capt. Baird’s vessel still here and many others-
for Erie, all weather bound, and no appearance of a change
at present. A hurricane from w. ward with muth rain
through the night, very cold and unpleasant. At 10 walked
over to Fort Erie, my Scotch friend accompanying me to
take his passage, road tolerable, distance 2 miles. Found
Mr. Stanton, delivered my letter, which made him extremely
attentive, inspected the rooms at the small Inn and passed
on to the extreme point of the works thrown up by the
Americans under Gen’l Brown while in possession. They
terminated at Snake Hill by a redoubt with a small 3 GunOF THE YEAR 1817.
123
breast work, 100 yards advanced which cut up De Watville’s
[De Watteville’s] Corps dreadfully in the unsuccessful as-
sault ordered by Gen’l Drummond. This sandy rise on the
beach point well merits its name for we disturbed two
snakes while walking over it, from whence you trace the
Americans and French all along on your left (the Sea on
your right), as far as the old fort near a mile distant.
Called at Mr. Stanton’s on my way back and he showed me
a plan of the works and Batteries, etc., as- drawn by Capt.
Owen, R. N., lately surveying the coast. We then inspected
the old fort now in ruins except a small shed lately repaired
to quarter the Sarg’nts party in. Observed the large cavity
caused by the accidental explosion of the magazine under a
Bastion, during our attack which for a moment equally dis-
concerted both parties but in the end enabled the enemy to
repel us. Capt. [Col.] Drummond fell after surmounting
this Bastioii and turning the corner of the left stone Bar-
racks now in ruins. This place would have been strong if
completed, but orders from home 10 or 12 years ago had
stopped its further progress. Two of the Bastions and the
works adjoining were left unfinished and were so at the
commencement of the war. Major Burke had, however,
taken some pains to put it in good state of defence; but he
was strangely induced to yield it on the first summons,
though in a few days Gen’l Brock would have succeeded
him. After thoroughly inspecting the remains and Mr.
Stanton pointing out the different objects worthy of observa-
tion corresponding with Capt. O’s plan, we-passed through
the ravine down where the enemy made a Sortie and drove
us from Batteries 1 & 2 when after our unsuccessful assault
we attempted regularly to invest the place. There is a stile
[ ? still] a 24-pounder lying in our nearest Battery No. 3
(880 yds.) as destroyed by the enemy, but now of course un-
serviceable. Observed a few coins and fragments here and
there, it appears the affairs here took place only two years
ago, about Sept, or Oct. 1815 [1814]. We lost 800 men in
the unsuccessful assault and it is said almost as many more
by the subsequent sortie when we were driven from our
works and Batteries. The enemy’s loss per diem within124
A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
their works on the flank and rear of the Fort was as the
Gen’l told Mr. Stanton, 15. Battery No. 1 is on the water
side close to the high road 1180 yards from the fort. The
trees about are much cut and mangled and many of marks
of balls from the “enemy” infilating battery on the Buffalo
side, are still visible. My acquaintance Capt. Douglass of
the U. S. Engineers superintended the construction of the
works, particularly that on Snake Hill, which I am told did
him great credit. He was also very active in the Sortie
which proved so fatal to us.
In the road met Lieut. Willson of the Royal Engineers
and Mr. Blackburn an asst, deputy in the store-keepers (a
new) department, and another Gent, a clerk in the same.
Mr. Stanton introduced me. I found they were fellow
lodgers at Hardison's and were waiting for a wind to pro-
ceed up the lake to their post at Amherstburgh, nearly 300
miles. Mr. Stanton walked with us to the Fer'ry and pro-
cured from Mr. Warren (a magistrate here) two of the old
Indian stone arrow-heads which have been dug up in this
vicinity. He gave me one and Lt. Willson the other. They
are considered great curiosities from their antiquity and
curious construction. Wrote a long letter to New London
and a note to the post master at Buffalo with directions re-
specting any letters that may arrive for me—-also a note to
Mr. Landon of the hotel for the clothes I left to be washed.
Sawnie volunteered to go on my errand to Buffalo (2 miles)
and bring my clothes, etc., if I would pay the Ferryage, to
this I gladly assented and gave him a dollar with my letter
and notes. Dined at 5 with Lt. Willson and his party up-
stairs very comfortably. They have a suit of apartments to
themselves, each a room, as I cannot have one I shall go to-
morrow to Mrs. Maxwell's at F. Erie and wait until Mon-
day when should the wind not become fair I determine to
cross back to Buffalo, and take the Tuesday's stage home-
wards.
Saturday, Sept. 27. All the better for the Doctor's pow-
ders which begin, alas, to get short. Breakfast between
9 & 10 with Lt. Willson's party upstairs. They have been
now 11 days waiting for a fair wind and are almost out ofOF THE YEAR 1817.	125
patience. Mr. Blackburn of the Storekeepers Generals
(Trotter) Department, a very gentlemanly young man. His
pay and rank as an Asst. Depty. is as a Capt. but he has
many more advantages; the Clerk’s as Lieut. The uniform,
blue (staff made) with blue velvet facings and white de-
partment buttons. At noon proceeded in compapy with
these gents to Fort Erie and there took possession of a nice
single room at Mrs. Maxwell’s Inn, to whom Mr. Stanton
recommended me. On the road from F. George the stage
driver overtook me and begged to have the two Dollars and
11 instead of the 3 Drs. he had so fraudulently demanded,
so I paid him. Lieut. Willson & self dined together at Mrs.
Maxwell’s together with his daughter, the bride and Lieut.
Jackson of the Royal Navy, married two days preceding.
A fidler chanced to be in the house, and a dance was kicked
up in which I participated in Iron-heeled boots, danced with
Mrs. Jackson and an unmarried sister of hers, we had about
7 couple & a lively though vulgar and old-fashioned dance,
the company retired at 11 and I went to bed, better than
usual.
Sunday, Sept. 28. Rose early and in unpacking my
Portmanteau was petrified in not being able to discover my
India square shawl and the pocket-thermometer which was
wrapped in it, recollect having it in my hand the morning I
packed up to depart from A. Rogers at Fort George, since
then I have not unpacked merely having taken my writing
utinsils once or twice from the top of the portmanteau, felt
confident I must have left them at F. George when packing,
at 11 procured a horse and determined to retrace my steps
and endeavor to recover the articles. Owing to the delay in
catching the mare did not get off till near one. Passed the
falls about 4 the Rainbows over them more beautiful than I
had before seen which 11 suppose portended rain and the
Rapids from Chippaway more violent and curling with in-
creased foam. A captain of a vessel who I gave a lift to in
the wagon brought in a bundle and not perceiving that a
broad plank in the bottom [was out], on his alighting found
his bundle had disappeared below, and he was obliged to go
back for it 2 or 3 miles. His misfortune reminded me of my126
A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
own and I pushed on as fast as the little mare could go till
she was nearly knocked up at Queenstown. I there gave
her a gallon of oats, I took a glass of hot Brandy and water
and bread and cheese being the first refreshment I had taken
from break-fast to past 6 p. m. The last hour stormy and
bitter cold, nearly dark when I left Queenstown at 7. Drove
cautiously, but got some fearful jolts; heavy showers at
times, my coat wet through. At 3^2 past 8 had the satisfac-
tion to drive into A. Roger’s Inn yard without having met a
single human being, mounted or on foot, between Kingstown
[Queenston] and Niagara. But thank my lucky stars I
was rewarded for my toil, the landlord had my shawl and
thermometer safe in keeping and they were restored to me
uninjured. Made a hearty supper in high glee, on cold beef
and tea. I retired to my former pretty comfortable quarters
early, having seen the poor mare well taken care of.
Monday, Sept. 29. Dressed early and went out to call
on Mr. Wybault, breakfasted with him, and Mr. Campbell,
a sick friend of his, late of the Commissary. Col. Grant
joined us and pressed me much to stay as I could not dine
with him to-day, being engaged to Mr. Wybault. The wind
being still contrary for Erie and the mare being fagged and
galled induced me to halt. Called on Mr. Farnden the Asst.
Surgeon and thanked him for the powders which has been
of such great use to me and got a dozen' more, declined any
fee; married to a niece of McGillivray of the N. W. Co. I
saw him and the'Surgeon’s wife (Garrett) at Col. Grant’s.
Eat plenty of his fine peaches. Inspected his stores, garden,
etc. Called on Col. Evans, sorry to find Mrs. Evans confined
to her room, found the Col. at the Mess and I learned Mrs.
Evans had been ill from spasms in the stomach, now some-
what better. Renewed my acquaintance with all the officers
who were of course surprised to see me back, much pressing
to stay, but determine to proceed early to-morrow.
Saw Capt. Navasour of the Engineers. Col. Evans in-
troduced him and astonished me with the information that
the lady who lives with him is no other than the wife of Mr.
Ruddell and daughter of Sir J. Dunbar of Liverpool. Mr.
Ruddell recovered 500 [ ? £ or $] damages instead of 5000.OF THE YEAR 1817.	127
Navasour has promised to marry her as soon as the divorce
is obtained. Col. Evans corrected much of Mr. Stanton’s
information relative to the attack and affairs at Erie. Major
Buck (not Burke) of the 8th Foot commanded and surren-
dered, but Col. Evans says he is not to be blamed. (Observe
that they served in the same regiment.) A pleasant dinner
at Mr. Wybault’s, drank planty of good port wine, met
Town Maj. Kemble, he had a brother on the Madras Estab-
lishment, Native Cavalry, is well informed on India Mat-
ters. Retired at Rogers’ at 10.
Sept. 30. Started at 7 o’clock, plagued with the harness,
.got some string at Mr. Scott’s, pay-masfer of the 70th, who
lives 3 miles from'Ft. George. Said to be the author of Guy
Mannering, Waverly, etc. Disappointed in not seeing him.
These novels are supposed to be sketched by Mr. and Mrs.
Scott but finished for the press by their brother Walter, such
the opinion of the officers of the 70th. Turned out of the
road 3 miles beyond Queenstown to visit the whirl-pool a
mile and a half from the high road; road indescribably bad,
stuck fast, sad work; at length repaid for my trouble, won-
derful sight. Did not reach Forsyth’s (the half way house)
to breakfast till 11 o’clock, ran down and took a last look at
the falls, plucked wild flowers that grew contiguous and
brought them away as also a specimen of the rock. Washed
my hands and face in the falling torrent, got back to break-
fast and met Major Davis, 99th, who was after lands. For-
syth’s people omitted to give the mare water, and finding on
my way forward she was thirsty ran into a house to get a
pail, she bolted over the bank to quench her thirst, wagon
miraculously escaped, I got wet in darting after her.
Reached the ferry at half past 4. Heard the vessels had
sailed in the morning! Went on to Fort Erie, and left Col.
Grant’s letter at Mr. Stanton’s, also his umbrella. Mr. Stan-
ton out, did not see him, report confirms all vessels sailed.
Settled and thanked Mrs. Maxwell, went back in the wagon
to the ferry, did not get across until dark, great difficulty in
getting my Portmanteau taken to Landon’s. At length a
man on horseback for half a dollar agreed to take it before
him, I carrying the coat, etc. A terrible trip. Frequently128	A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
up to my knees in mud, pitch dark, horrid road, reached
Landon’s at 8 wet through with perspiration. Met Mr. D.
A. Ogden from Ogdensburgh, cousin of Mrs. Evans, on his.
way there. Left Mr; Abraham O. behind him. No vessel
certain for Erie, the wind not fair, determined to start for
Albany in the morning, jaded, worn out and sick of my
travels. I had 3 squirrels (black) caught close to the falls,
their skins with me. Mr. Ogden talks of going from Fort
George to Erie and Pittsburgh, but not certain, I could not
bear longer delay.
Wednesday, Oct. 1. Up at 5, after a good night’s rest,,
wind fair for Erie, but hear of no vessel bound there, only
one for Detroit, direct, the Erie. Therefore no longer hesi-
tate to take my place in the stage. Start at 6, a sharp frost,
the first this season, bitter cold, glad I have not to drop down
the Allegheny, otherwise much disappointed that I should
have lost my passage, but I recovered my shawl & ther-
mometer, which of the two perhaps was best. The mist or
foam of the,falls visible all the way to Williamsville, 12
miles from Buffalo, and a mile beyond, Major Miller’s Inn at
11 Mile Creek, where we had stopped before; breakfasted
at Hutchinson’s Inn, comfortably, the condensed mist visible
a few miles farther owing to the frost, about 50 miles from
the falls. Rainbows yesterday strikingly beautiful; I only
went to Table Rock, not to the ladder. Reached Batavia,
Mr. Myer’s Inn (where we had stayed before) at 4 o’clock
and got dinner, paid 1V2 dollars. Two fellow passengers,
pleasant men of this neighborhood, a flute player, knew Mr.
O’Brien (the Tailor) of N. London who he said was a verw
clever man and had seen better days ; started at daybreak,
Thursday, Oct. 2, and breakfasted very comfortably and
cleanly at Ripley’s Inn, Le Roy village, 13 miles. They say
Ripley took Reall prisoner. Reached Canandaigua at 5,
p. m. (Mills’) having dined on raw beef at Rowe’s Inn,
Bloomfield. Met an English & Irish Gentlemen on their
way to the falls. They had only been a fortnight in this
country and gave me much information as to the fashions,
etc., at home; a famous Presbyterian Preacher, I was too*
tired to go and hear him. I told Mr. and Mrs. Mills all IOF THE YEAR 1817.
129
knew regarding their daughter with Mr. De Forrest, they
gave me a wretched bed in return; off at day-break on
Friday.
Oct. 3. Breakfasted at Hotel Geneva, 16 miles. Reached
Sherwood’s (Skeneateles) to dinner, beef as usual which
appeared to be the constant diet of the western counties,
reached Onondaga Hollow (Webb’s) at 9 p. m. too tired to
take supper. Went immediately to bed, in the same room
with Mr. Brisbane, who had accompanied us from Batavia.
At Waterloo this morning joined by Mr. Tabor of New
York who immediately recognized me, he had been at the
Falls. I found him a pleasant companion, and also Mr. Un-
derhill, junior of Canandaigua.
Saturday, Oct. 4. Discovered when too late that I had
left the key of my Portmanteau at Keyes’, Batavia, I told
his wife who went with us to Cayuga of the circumstance.
Reached Utica at 8 p. m. I went to the York House kept by
Bamman, got an excellent supper and bed, had a long chat
with Mrs. Bamman, she was born at Bath, and had a brother
of that name (Thomas) living near Clifton Springs, a
leather cutter. I promised to call and tell him I had seen his
sister, etc.
Sunday, Oct. 5. Started at 3 a. m. and breakfasted tol-
erably at Herkimer, a pretty village, 15 miles, having passed
Little Falls, half way; discovered the loss of my tooth pick
case. Wrote back to Mr. Bamman on the subject, from
Conynis Inn, 2 miles east of Johnstown (where we dined)
to request if found it might be sent to Mr. McCormick’s
N. Y. who was well known to Mr. Bamman. Arrived at
Mr. Baird’s Tavern (Eagle) Albany, at 11 p. m. I went to
bed immediately much tired, a poor bed.
Monday, Oct. 6. From a new arrangement in the Boston
stage find I shall be two days in reaching Hartford. Walked
round the town and saw the old residence of Aunt Schuyler
of Pearl Street with many other old Dutch houses; called on
Mr. Smith who got me silver change. At 11 a. m. the stage
called for me and we crossed the ferry to Greenbush in a
boat worked by 8 horses, not by steam, the stage went over
and I had no occasion to get out. One mile ascent. The:130
A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
Barracks in a pretty situation, four (eight) pairs of long
houses besides detached buildings. From the hill a beauti-
ful prospect of Albany and the vicinity. Road excellent,
capital horses and civil driver. Schodeck yy2 miles from the
ferry, a long straggling place, road hilly but good. Entered
Nassau township (4^. miles further) the road to Pittsfield,
Northampton, etc., branching off to the left. Reached the
township of Chatham at 1 p. m. 15 miles [ ? minutes] to dine.
Declined it and proceeded. The country pleasing though
hilly, road still excellent, well cultivated though soil not rich.
My only fellow'passenger a lady (elderly) from Providence,
stage moved rapidly, at mile stone 28 from Albany passed
the boundary of N. York and entered the state of Massachu-
setts at 3 p. m., soon after the Hoosatonac, River which
unites with the Naugatuck at Derby. At 7 reached Major
Ensign’s Inn at Sheffield, 45 miles from Albany and got
supper. (Omitted Stockbridge, 13 miles from Sheffield.)
Oct. 7. Off at daybreak, took a hasty breakfast at Nor-
folk, having passed Canaan 7 miles and here entered the
state of Connecticut, passed Winsted Iron Works, Farming-
ton, etc., to Hartford, 28 miles. Dreadful weather, quite a
hurricane with violent showers of rain. Got into Ripley’s
Inn to which Major Stevens (a fellow passenger from Nor-
folk) recommended me. I made every inquiry as to an im-
mediate conveyance to New London. One man offered to
take me the 42 miles for the moderate sum of 15 dollars, so I
relinquished the thought and at 4 sat down to a tolerable
dinner, for so I esteemed tough fresh killed chickens after
my late course of beef steaks. Rain & wind continued most
of the evening and I returned [ ? retired] to bed early.
Wednesday, Oct. 8. Breakfasted at past 7 with the
house party and had the luck again to get a part of a grilled
fowl otherwise I must have put up with my old fare, beef.
As the stage for N. London does not start till 9, it being a
delightful morning I strolled round the town accompanied
by a gentlemanly man belonging to New York whose name
I understood to be Bootam, of French extraction, I presume.
We had traveled a short distance together. He was re-
turning from Schenectady College in which he had placed aOF THE YEAR 1817.	131
son. Mr. B. gained me admittance into the asylum for the
deaf and dumb, and I was highly gratified, great credit is
due to Mr. Gallaudet for the wonderful progress of his
pupils, an excellent institution, but as yet ill supported as no
one can be placed there at a less expense than 200 dollars
per annum, only 29 pupils as few can afford this allowance.
A good episcopal, 2 congregational, 1 methodist, and 1 bap-
tist places of worship, many good houses, a fine arched
bridge over the Connecticut River, and below which lay 8 or
10 moderate sized vessels, chiefly sloops and schooners;
trade dull and very little stir or bustle in the town, a good
market house but apparently ill supported, nothing but very
poor looking beef could we see there.
Entered the stage at 9 o’clock. I arrived in lucky time
as it only runs at present twice a week to New London,
viz—Wednesdays & Saturdays. A Mr. Heathcot of Boston,
an Englishman and a negress for Colchester, my com-
panions. Mr. H. a pleasant well informed man. Passed
through E. Hartford, 4 miles, Glasonbury, etc., to Colchester
which is a pretty, small town, 22 miles from Hartford.
Dined heartily at 2 o’clock on partridges and bacon and
about 3 proceeded on our route. Road hitherto very bad,
sandy and hilly, one very long and steep ascent 8 miles from
Hartford, from the summit of which you have an excellent
prospect including a faint view of the town. On this side
Colchester, road somewhat better, not so hilly, country by
no means fertile, very rocky and sterile in many places;
several halts, having from Colchester only one pair of
horses in our small stage, which simply carried Mr. H. and
myself. He drank rather freely of Brandy and water, as it
grew colder he increased his quantity so that when we
reached Montville (12.miles from Colchester & 7 from N.
London) he was tolerably well on. A woman and child
from New London joined us here to return home. Mr. H.
rather troublesome and I was obliged to repress his assidu-
ities. Happy to see the heights of New London between 7 &
8, had the stage driven round past Mr. Cole’s to Mr.
Stewart’s gate. I was much gratified to find all as well as I
could wish;	Mr. Stewart not home, expected to-132	A NIAGARA FALLS TOURIST
ward the end of the month. Mr. Stewart arrived in the
Tiger from Liverpool at 16 p. m. the 14th of October, all
well, and I again departed on my Washington excursion, in
the steamboat on Monday morning, the 20th of Oct. 1817.
Amount of Expence on My Journey, Sept. 10, 1817.
Sept. 10. Fare per Steamboat from N. London to N. York
$8, petty charges, portage etc. $1............$ 9.00
12. Board at Gibson’s Hotel and Servants........... 3-5°
Theater $1, West’s $1; 2 ult. Phials $2......... 4.00
Soda Water etc. 25c, 3 doz. Porter (Mrs. S) $9 . .	9.25
13.	Fare to Albany $8, hair cutting (N. Y.) 25c... 8.25
“	“ Schenectady 16 miles $1^50, expences there
$1.50 ....................................... 3-00
“ • 14. Fare (stage) to Utica (84 miles) $6, 15th—dinner
Canojohara, 50c .............................. 6.50
“	16.	Halt, medicine 50c ...........................     .50
“	17.	Fare (stage) to Skeneatles $4.75, bill Utica $2.75	7.50
Breakfast (Vernon) 50c; dinner (Onondaga Hol-
low) 50c................................ 1.00
“	18. Bill at Skeneatlas (a halt) $2, fare to Canandaigua
$3.50  ....................................... 5.50
Tinct. Cinnamon & Thebaie 25c ................... .25
“	19.	Canandaigua, breakfast at Cayuga .................. .50
20. Bill here $1.50, paid share of dinner at Rowe’s Inn
(W. Bloomfield) $1.00 ........................ 2.50
Sh?,re of night’s bill at Bowen’s, Caledonia .......	2.00
“	21. Breakfast (Batavia) $1, tea, etc, Major Miller’s
Inn (11 mile creek) $1 ........................ .	2.00
“	22.	(Buffalo) share of night’s bill at Pomeroy’s..	2.00
My ferryage across to Canada 25c, peaches, etc. 25c	.50-
Fare in stage from Forsyth’s at the Falls Inn to
Newark ................................. ..... 1.25,
Medicine yesterday ...........................      .25
“	23.	(Newark, F. George or W. Niagara) bill & Ser-
vants ................................................    3.50
“	25.	Ferry fare to F. Niagara & back.................... .25
Fare in stage back to Buffalo, ferry-house.....	2.25
My conductor at the falls 25c (omitted) . .... .25.
“	28.	Bill to Mr. Hardyson (Ferry House) ............... 3.00
“	3°.	“ Rogers (2nd trip to F. George) & Servants . .	2.50
Forsyth, breakfast etc 75c, trunk to F. Erie
(omitted) 25c ..................................   1.00
Mrs. Maxwell’s Bill F. Erie, including wagon ....	2.50
Horse here to F. George $4, ferry back 25c.... 4.25
Carriage, trunk from Ferry to Landon’s 50c, bill
Ends. 75c .................................... 1.25
Oct.	1.	Fare (Landon’s) half way to Batavia $1.50, ser-
vants 25c ..............................................    1.75
Returning, breakfast, Hutchinson’s, Williamsville .50OF THE YEAR 1817.
138
Oct.	2.	Balance fare $1.50 Mr. Keyes bill (Batavia) $1.06.$	2.50
Fare to Canandaigua $3.50, Mr. Mills bill $1.50 ...	5.00
Breakfast at Mr. Ripley’s, Le Roy village............. .50
“	3.	Fare to Onondaga Hollow $4.50, breakfast
Geneva 50c..........................................  5.00
4. Fare to Utica $4.25, breakfast Chittenango 50c ....	4.75
Dinner Skeneatles (omitted) 50c, bill Mr. Bamman
(Utica) $1 .........................................  1.50
u	5.	Fare to Albany $7, breakfast Herkimer. 50c...... 7.50
Dinner (Conyne’s Inn) 2 miles E. Johnstown 50c	.50
41	6.	Mr. Baird’s Bill (Albany) $1, fare to Hartford $6.50	7.50
Major Ensigffis bill for the'night (Sheffield) 75c. .	.75
“	7.	Breakfast (Norfolk) 50c.............................. .50
“	8.	Bill Ripley’s Hartford $1.50, fare to N. London
$3-50 .............................................   5-00
Dinner etc. Colchester 75c, grog, etc. in the even-
ing 50c .........................................      1.25
One month’s (4 weeks traveling expences) ...........$134.50