Production Note Cornell University Library produced this volume to replace the irreparably deteriorated original. It was scanned using Xerox software and equipment at 600 dots per inch resolution and compressed prior to storage using CCITT Group 4 compression. The digital data were used to create Cornell's replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1984. The production of this volume was supported in part by the New York State Program for the Conservation and Preservation of Library Research Materials and the Xerox Corporation. Digital file copyright by Cornell University Library 1994.EARLY TRADE ROUTES. ADVENTURES AND RECOLLECTIONS OF A PIONEER TRADER, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF HIS SHARE IN THE BUILDING OF BUFFALO HARBOR. BY CAPTAIN JAMES SLOAN.* Previous to Gen. Wayne’s treaty the navigation of the Allegheny River was much interrupted by Indian raids, especially between Fort Franklin and Fort Pitt, a distance of about 70 miles by land, but 130 by the meanders of the river. East of the river, the Indians soon were confronted by the settlements, between the river and the mountains. * Captain James Sloan came to Black Rock—then a settlement distinct from Buffalo—in 1810, and died there March 5, 1868, in his 80th year. He was born in the State of Pennsylvania, was at an early day a boatman on the : Allegheny River and on Chautauqua Lake, and on coming to Black Rock en- . gaged in boating on the Niagara River and in coasting Lake Erie. He was in the Government employ during the War of 1812. During the siege of Fort’ Erie Captain Sloan daily passed from Buffalo Creek with supplies of ammuni-. tion and provisions for the garrison, and always under the batteries on the . Canada side. When he died the Buffalo Commercial Advertiser said of him: “An honester man never lived.” The reader has seen, in the preceding paper, how highly Capt. Sloan was esteemed by Judge Wilkeson. A few years before his death, Capt. Sloan wrote his reminiscences, apparently at the request of the Hon. Louis F. Allen and Charles D. Norton, to whom he addressed his com- munications. These papers, deposited many years ago writh the Buffalo His- torical Society, are fragmentary, disconnected and so grotesquely illiterate that to read them is like translating from a newly-discovered foreign tongue, con -216 A PIONEER TRADER. Previous to 1795, little trade was attempted on the river; but after the treaty, signed in that year, Northwestern Pennsylvania commenced settling rapidly, and soon after, Northern Ohio and Western New York. As there were but few roads into all this region, and those new and near im- passable, the early settlers were obliged to get their supplies from Pittsburgh, by the river, and so were our northern forts that had been surrendered by the British. It would be impossible to make a correct estimate of the amount of property shipped by this river route, even for a single year. No record of it was kept. Some days two or three boats might be seen ascending; scarcely a day passed when there was no boat, in the season of navigation. Spring navigation ended about the last of June, continuing longer if the season was wet. It was not resumed in summer freshets; for the river being rapid the rise passed off too soon. Lumbermen, however, descended the river with their lumber, keeping with the flood. The ordinary navigation was by boats carrying from 10 to 16 tons, when loaded so as to draw from 18 inches to two feet. There was quite a brisk trade carried on in canoes and pirogues, a kind of half boat, half canoe. All the boatmen were in a way river ped- dlers as well as common carriers, vending their wares along the river, at all the landing places and wherever they stopped to cook, etc. Goods and produce were shipped in this way, to some structed on a phonetic basis. Capt. Sloan was a man of deeds, not at all a man of the spelling-book; yet the period of his activities was so important, and his share in them so full of interest, that it is well worth while to retell his story in the present volume, though the obligation of literalness, supposed to be incumbent on the transcriber of old documents, must be disregarded. The narrative here presented follows as closely as possible Capt. Sloan’s own state- ments, though abridgment and condensation have been practiced throughout. A portion of his reminiscences—that relating to Buffalo harbor work—was pub- lished in the Buffalo Morning Express, Nov. 20, 1862. So far as known to the editor of this volume, no other part of Capt. Sloan’s papers has been printed. His recollections of early boating on the, Allegheny, Chautauqua Cake, Lake Erie and the Niagara, as set down by himself are often disconnected and full of repetitions. His own caption for these aquatic adventures is Footprints Fifty Years Ago! The story of his sojourn among the Indians is written by a dif- ferent hand, evidently having been copied many years ago from his own well- nigh illegible manuscript.A PIONEER TRADER. 217 extent, to Olean Point and King’s Settlement*, and I pre- sume sent still further East. Produce and Old Mononga- hela whiskey were brought to’Erie, Pa., and Portland, Chau- tauqua County, and shipped as far east as Oswego and Salt Point, in exchange for salt and cash. Quite a stream of emigrants from the Eastern States commenced descending the river in the return boats, in small boats and on rafts. This continued till I left the river in 1810, and I am informed still continues to some extent. The shipping place was principally Olean Point, but Waterford and Mayville were also points of embarkation. Boating on the Allegheny was the severest test the hu- man frame could endure, and hardy men in a few years broke down under its strain. The boatman’s diet was bread, bacon, chocolate and whiskey, with but few vegetables. Vast quantities of whiskey were swallowed, but did not seem to have any bad effect. Boats were manned with from seven to nine men, who propelled the craft with setting-poles, heavily ironed, and having a head or button to put the shoulder against. In ascending rapids tow-men were sent out to the head of the run to hold the boat while the rest hurried from stern to bow to set their poles, and by walking astern again thus making the boat gain her own length by every repeated operation. The spring season averaged about 90 d^ys, the fall about 60; deducting 21 Sundays as no good, would leave say 130 days of up-navigation in the year. The up- freight would average, I think, 30 tons a day, making dur- ing the navigation season 3,900 tons. The down-freight was lumber, shipped in arks and rafts., The emigrants com- menced coming about 1802 or 1803. In 1808 I left home intending to ship at Pittsburgh for New Orleans, but could make no engagement. Instead I engaged to help collect fruit on the Monongahela for the Chautauqua market. This we obtained mostly along the line of Virginia and Pennsylvania, and on the Cheat River; fruit, both green and dry, being abundant in that part of * The only King’s Settlement the editor finds trace of is in Chenango County ; that in the text was probably on the upper Allegheny. Olean Point became Olean in 1808.218 A PIONEER TRADER. country. The Cheat is all in Virginia* and ioo miles above Pittsburgh by river. There are no islands in the Mononga- hela. This [? season] numerous Indian raids were made, but the river was guarded by a kind of United States police or forest rangers. Had it not been for this military force the frontier settlements near the east side of the river; would have been broken up. The men, from long experience in the forest, were more active and intelligent than the Indians, small bands of whom were often destroyed by them. These rangers would pursue Indian stragglers for hundreds of miles. The Indian trail was followed by knowing their sig- nals. It was by a kind of cipher or hieroglyphics that this forest record was made by bands of Indians, for the infor- mation of their Indian friends. Thus a band separating, will break twigs pointing out the course they are going, and showing how many are in each band. Figures were marks in the trees. Our men had obtained a key to these and could decipher them. This was their only guide; they were not tracked as many suppose, by footprints in the trail. These rangers had the art of simulating the calls of deer and wild turkey and other animals, and would call them up and shoot them as well as Indians sometimes, the latter thinking it was game that called. Many of the settlements between the Al- legheny River and Allegheny Mountains would have been broken up but for these rangers. In one of these raids I had two companions captured. They were carried to the Maumee River, near Fort Maumee, and adopted into the family of a chief of the name of Rain- cat. John, at the time of his capture, was 14, and Nancy was younger. They were with the Indians during the wars of St. Clair and Wayne, a little over four years. [?John] Sloan stated that the Indians were in despair at their re- verses in battle, the loss of their friends, the consumption of their crops and the destruction of their towns by Wayne’s army, and the conduct of the fort and the Indian traders who had promised them aid in this war as usual but had suffered their town and crops to be destroyed under the very * West Virginia since 1863. .A PIONEER TRADER. 219 guns of the fort. The very gates of the fort were shut against the fugitives. I first came to Buffalo in 1810. I left Portland in August in a small boat, with two barrels of whiskey and two of flour as a kind of venture. The liquor I sold to Sheldon Thompson at Lewiston for six shillings per gallon. He shipped it to Oswego by the Charles & Ann on her first trip. She belonged to Townsend, Bronson & Co. Mr. Thompson was one of the firm and had come to Lewiston to superintend their business. I had left Pittsburgh in March, 1810, with a canoe carry- ing 13 barrels of flour and whiskey, and a few articles besides for Mayville. I sold out and returned again with two loaded canoes carrying 31 barrels, mostly flour. These cargoes I sold out alongThe river and at Mayville, my flour bringing $7 a barrel and the whiskey six shillings a gallon. I then bought a boat and left Pittsburgh about the middle of June with a full freight for myself and merchants at Mayville and crossroads, being now a common carrier as well as a river peddler. This trip was most disastrous to me, the river falling earlier than usual. I had to canoe a portion of my freight over the shallow rapids between Franklin and Mayville, and in some instances scraping and removing stone out of the channel to pass. At the Chautauqua rapids I had to canoe a large portion of my freight to the head of the rapids and leave it in the woods to be reshipped again in my boat at that point. There were about 14 miles of forest without any inhabitants. Every pound of my freight was delivered and in good order except one potash kettle I left at Pithole Creek. There was a heavy fall of snow when we were near where Jamestown is now.* This was an important channel of communication between the Lakes and the South, supplying all our northwestern forts and posts with mu- nitions of war and provisions, as well as the early settlers in Northern Pennsylvania and Western New York. The lake country could not have been settled at so early a day had it not been for the facilities afforded by this river. * This evidently refers to a different trip. This portion of Capt. Sloan’s MS. is much confused, with no dates to guide the editor.220 A PIONEER TRADER. The French Creek navigation commenced several years prior to that of the Conewango. The posts along French Creek must have been of importance to New York, as they covered the western part of the state from Indian excur- sions. The navigation of the Allegheny was in active opera- tion a few years prior to 1800. Soon after the occupation of Detroit by United States forces munitions of war and provisions were sent up the Allegheny and French Creek to Forts Franklin, Casawaga, now Meadville, LeBoeuf, now Waterford, Presqu’ He, now Erie, and Detroit. The early settlers of Chautauqua were partially supplied with their provisions from Pittsburgh. The country being generally heavily timbered, it was a hard section for settlement. Mr. Ellicott ought to have let the settlers have lands for a hun- dred per cent, less than he did. The first settlers were worn out with toil in clearing the land. In 1810,. having visited Niagara Falls and Lewiston, I crossed over to Queenston. At this time it was a business place, being the head of navigation for the northeastern lakes and rivers, and the foot of navigation for the upper lakes, and the portage between those channels of commerce. Its commanding position made it an important point for the Northwest Company, also for the Government goods for the Indians, and for merchants, mostly fur traders, who supplied their people with goods by this route. I returned to Buffalo by way of Chippewa, taking dinner there. The innkeeper was an American by the name of Jamison. We took passage in a nondescript vehicle, for which we were charged five shillings apiece, and came to Fort Erie, and paid two shillings apiece ferriage. There were four passengers, all Americans, viz., Samuel Parker, Patrick Jack, William Sloan and myself. At this time there was a bad [ ? feeling] between a large portion of the Canada people and citizens of the United States, who were received with a kind of uncivil contempt, which was reciprocated by the people of the United States. It was evident, after the attack of the Leopard on the Chesapeake* that only an ap- peal to the sword would settle the controversy. June 22, 1807.A PIONEER TRADER. 221 In the fall of 1811, being engaged in the Detroit fisheries and not succeeding well, I transferred my operations with a few goods to the rapids at the outlet of Lake Huron and passed the winter there. The fisheries at this time were an important branch of commerce. They and the fur trade were the principal support of Detroit and Michigan. As the balance of the trade was against the people there they adopted an ingenious device to retain money in the city. This was to cut silvef coin into small change, commencing at the outer rim and cutting to the center, making io shil- lings out of a dollar. Smaller pieces went through the same process. As this left a rough edg$ and a sharp point they soon cut the pocket and no one would attempt to carry this light money out of the territory. Their penal code was rather a severe one. Offenders were sold and sometimes whipped in the public street; the culprits brought very little and generally soon left for parts unknown, thus ridding the city of their presence. At the rapids at this time there was a band of Chippewa Indians that.claimed jurisdiction and ownership in the lands there, under two chiefs. They were of a roving disposition and mostly scattered in the forest till after hunting and sugar-making. They then generally drew home to the rapids for fishing purposes and pitched their lodges for a time. They had a peculiar way of curing sturgeon. This was by cutting them in thin, wide slices, and drying them in the sun; then they would pack them away in bundles for future consumption. In this way they saved them without salt. They were rather good eating. This bapd was poor and owned no animals but dogs. They were hostile to the United States, with the exception of the Rileys and one or two families of their Indian friends. This hostility was principally caused by British and Canadian influence. There were three brothers and one sister of the Rileys; James, John, Peter and Mary were their names. Their mother was a Chippewa woman and they belonged to the band. Their father lived in the city of Schenectady and was, postmaster of that city for a time. I now, with the aid of James Riley, commenced learning222 A PIONEER TRADER. 1 . the Chippewa language. He also spoke the French language fluently and tolerable English. I committed the English arid Indian words to writing; the Indians themselves were sur- prised at my learning their language so fast. The Chip- pewa language is a beautiful one and flows smoothly from the tongue. The two chiefs were aged men. The head chief was a stupid man, who inherited his position from his an- cestors, who had been great chiefs and warriors. Puck- wanosh, the other chief, though not possessing so much au- thority, was truly a great man. He was the most majestic and graceful man I ever saw; truly a magnificent speaker. His family was interesting and beautiful—for Indians: four sons and two daughters; the chief was a widower. The head chief s family was rather ordinary and of. a low caste, with the .exception of the youngest daughter who was a fine girl. Puckwanosh must have attracted the notice of the officials .of our Government as he had a beautiful Ameri- can flag and a heavy American silver medal. When he wished to pay his respects to me or ask a small favor he would always first hoist the flag and it was doubtless the first American flag hoisted over where Fort Gratiot now stands. * The collection of furs in the wilds of Michigan, at this time, was principally by Frenchmen and they were admir- ably adapted for that work. They would scour the woods for weeks with goods and peltry on their backs, their prin- cipal generally establishing himself in some Indian town or settlement, and then sending runners into the forest in all directions. This mode of life was not without its dangers. The traders and couriers were sometimes killed by the In- dians. I visited an Indian camp with a young Indian who in- formed me where there was a camp where I could get two bear skins with my goods. We left after dinner on snow- shoes, the snow being fully three feet deep. Not being used to travelling on snowshoes I lost my balance and pitched into the snow, the shoes holding my feet up and my head down. I was not able to extricate myself until my Indian friend helped me out. About sunset we entered a dense andA PIONEER TRADER. 228 dismal forest and thicket. Here we found the Indians at two lodges. They seemed pleased to see us, and I was in- stalled in the best lodge with bear's meat and honey for supper. They now offered me a skin for whiskey. I then opened my pack, in one corner of the lodge. They made an offering of a little of the liquor on the fire commending themselves to the protection of the Great Spirit and asking his blessing on the “Nishaunaba” Indian. They did not drink until a late hour and were very quiet. Being fatigued with travelling on snowshoes I soon fell asleep and had a good night's rest. It is surprising how warm a few dry branches will keep one of these lodges. The fire is always placed in the center, and the smoke escapes at the top where the lodge comes to a point. The covering of the lodge is rush matting and the lodge, is of a cone shape. In the morning we bid good-bye to our Indian friends and returned home. I procured several small skins, but saw no bear skins. Spring now came and with it the Indians. Their hunt- ing and sugar operations had closed and they emerged out of the wilderness; their fishing harvest had arrived. I em- ployed some of them to catch fish for me. There was a small village of lodges around me; we were encamped at the extreme point where the River Huron intersects the Saint Clair.* Huron was then called by the French and In- dians Wolf River. I spent some pleasant afternoons on the green lawn between the two rivers with the Indian boys and girls. Their social kindness to me was surprising and there never was but one incident to interrupt our friendship, dur- ing the seven or eight months that I remained with them. This unfortunately was with the young Indian who accom- panied me to the Indian camp. I am of the opinion that my safety was owing to the interposition of the chiefs who had forbid him injuring me. He had, however, challenged me to fight him with arms which, from necessity, I instantly ac- cepted, giving him the choice of the arms, with the exception of the arrow. This mode he chose, which I refused, as I * The Black River appears to be meant, not the Huron, which empties into Take Erie below the Detroit.224 A PIONEER TRADER. knew nothing about the bow and arrow. Things remained in this position for a few days, when, sitting in my fishing hut, I noticed him leaping, seeming in a rage, cleaving the air and other objects that came within range of his hatchet. At last he ran swiftly for my hut, which was open in front. In turning the corner my gun was within a few feet of his breast. He stood for a few moments, dropped his hatchet and came and sat down beside me. He said, we would be friends, and we continued so afterwards. Had he advanced a step farther with his hatchet I would have shot him. If I had done so I do not think I would have been punished as many of the Indians saw that I was acting on the defensive. His quarrel with me grew out of a very insignificant affair. In our outdoor exercise I was more than a match for him and he became offended. During my absence at Detroit he married an Indian girl named Ti-au-wash, but no one mentioned this on my return. I talked and joked with her and the old chiefs daughter as usual when I returned. His mother noticing this informed me that her son had married Ti-au-wash during my absence, mentioning the amount of “cins-qua-quif ’ (sugar) and trinkets paid to the girls parents for her. It was now late in May, and the Indians began to grow uneasy expecting a war. One in a grave manner said to me : “We and the Saga-nosh (English) are going to war with the Che-mo-ka-man (Americans). We will then have to take your scalp.” I told him I had no fear of that but we would be friends until war did take place, then we would settle all scalping matters. To this he assented with an exclamation or rather a grunt of satisfaction. As this was subsequent, however, to the battle of Tippecanoe and one of the band was then in Detroit jail for killing a Frenchman, his remarks were any- thing but flattering. Riley and the Frenchman were coming up the river with a cutter in a boat. The Indian was sitting in the cutter when he was pitched into the river by the branch of a tree. The Frenchman could not refrain from laughing, though Riley cautioned him against it. The In-A PIONEER TRADER. 225 dian entered the boat again, took up his gun and shot the Frenchman through the head, killing him instantly. This band was poor, but honest, and they held the ties of marriage strictly. In religious matters they seemed sin- cere. Puck-wa-nosh, the chief, acted as high priest; he performed the ceremonies inside a kind of tabernacle of matting. The audience sat or stood around in deep and devout meditation. Never did I see anything more solemn. His voice was more than human in impressiveness. It was about the last of May and they were preparing to leave for Amherstburgh. . Their effects were shipped in a fleet of canoes. They spread their blankets to the breeze and stood down the river. I sat down on the bank and watched them until they faded from my sight. A desolate sadness filled my heart. I thought of home and the green hills of Pennsylvania and my kind neighbors who had just left me* forever—and I wept. I saw one of the band in Michigan after the war. He informed me that my opponent and many of the band were dead or dispersed. His own family was dead. Poor old man, he seemed heart-broken and I pitied him much. It was now the first of June. I got my effects down to Detroit and shipped them on the sloop Contractor, Captain James Beard. We came to anchor in Buffalo bay about the 20th of June, 1812. The Captain went ashore and when he returned he said it was reported that war had been declared. The official declaration came on a few days after. The sloop was laid up in Scajaquada Creek and was one of Com- modore Perry’s vessels in the action on Lake Erie. A great change has taken place with the red man in the last 60 years. His appearance at the commencement of this century was wild, warlike and independent, but, alas! now he is docile, melancholy and subdued. A great change has also taken place in his dress. Then it was of the most gro- tesque appearance; the hair generally shaved close off the head, except a tuft on the crown. This was often adorned with paint and feathers. Others of mature age, slit the rim of the ear, and wore pieces of lead inserted to distend the rim. Their wardrobe was of the most scanty patterns; in226 A PIONEER TRADER. the summer generally a calico shirt, leggins or bare legs. In the winter a capoe [? capote] coat, leggins and moccasins, with a strip of blue cloth running up the back and front and fastened around the waist with a belt or girdle. I have no recollections, for several years after 1800, of seeing any In- dian with pantaloons or hat on. Those who could afford it had a great passion for silver ornaments; their garments were adorned with broaches, rings and half-moons down the breast in great profusion. In the early part of this century the Cornplanter band and other, northern Indians had quite a trade at Pittsburgh. Although this was a great way to go to trade there was no inconveniency in it to the Indian. From the source of the river to near its mouth were the Indians’ elysium fields, the hills and mountains being stocked with vast herds of deer and other game. They generally had to winter on the way down to Pittsburgh in the hills and mountains to kill game to make their purchases with. In 1799 an Indian called by the whites Hayes, during the hunting season killed 60 deer and other game, only 47 miles north of Pittsburgh. The brook he encamped on still bears his name. This will give some idea of the game on the mountains of that river. The white hunters sometimes obj ected to the Indians hunting as they had sold their lands. The Indians, however, alleged they had made no transfer of the game on their land, and while it lay wild they had rights as good as, if not better than, the white man. They also alleged that when white men sold their land they did not let their cattle go with the land without pay. As'this was a kind of knock-down argu- ment, they were not molested. Naturally there was a hostile feeling against the Indians at this time, for many had lost their friends in the Indian wars and raids. The Cornplanter band was, however, an exception. They were generally treated with kindness in consequence of the excellent repu- tation of their chief. Cornplanter was a household word when I was a lad. He always bore the reputation of a moral and an honest man, and his name is held in grateful remembrance from theA PIONEER TRADER. 227 source to the mouth of that river, and there are steamboats on the Allegheny and Ohio rivers bearing his name. Red Jacket, as seen in the streets of Buffalo with his blanket over his shoulders and otherwise indifferently clothed, appeared like a very common kind of an Indian until you caught his eye. This was sharp and intelligent and when he spoke in council his eyes flashed with great bril- liancy and fire. I attended two councils where Red Jacket addressed the Indian audience in a set speech. Although the Indians are grave in council, they were moved with his oration as their native forests are with a mighty wind. These councils were held early in July under an elm tree east of Washington Street, near the intersection of North Division Street. Judge Granger, as Indian agent, addressed the Indians through Messrs. Parrish and Jones, as inter- preters. His speech was a kind of history of the past and friendly advice for guidance in the future. It appeared to be well received by the Indians. One,object of the council was to have our Indians call a council in Canada to prevail on the Canada Indians to lay neutral during the war. Our Indians were willing to do so. The council was held in Canada, but the Canada Indians refused to lay down the hatchet. Judge Granger was an able and pleasant speaker and a good patriot; would to heaven we were all so now. But, alas! we have public journals, journalists and others who assail our Government and say a great deal more against it than against Jeff Davis’s government.* Farmer’s Brother deserves a passing notice. He was a splendid looking old chief, when I knew him, and was said to be 80 years old in 1813. At this great age he bore arms and was seriously injured by the wind of a cannon ball in the rear of Fort George in 1813. He was prostrated by its force and a good deal of swelling took place. The Farmer was more social in his intercourse with the whites than Red Jacket. I recollect staying over night at Pomeroy’s Buffalo tavern late in the fall of 1813, when the Farmer and Sally, his wife, passed the night there. He had come up to cele- Written in 1862.228 A PIONEER TRADER. brate the anniversary of his friend, Tawway, who had escaped from a drunken mob to the house of the chief. The Farmer, although a gentle Indian, committed a rash act in killing an Indian spy from the Grand River. This took place between Swan and Seneca streets, on Main Street. The Farmer had been threatened and insulted by the Indian. He wore a large and splendid medal said to have been pre- sented to him by General Washington, with the remark that he was the noblest and best looking Indian that he had ever seen. Sally, his wife, was a noble-looking woman, ap- parently a good deal younger than her husband. The Farmer died in 1814 and was buried with the honors of war in the old cemetery on Franklin Street.* John Brant was the most remarkable Indian I ever saw. Though rather dark, his person and appearance were splen- did and his features faultless and beaming with intelligence —open, frank and polite, with great conversational powers, and always a gentleman. He was elected to parliament, but in consequence of the votes polled by those having title from his father, he was not returned as member, although the title had been confirmed by Government. He died with the cholera in 1834. His death was truly affecting. In an in- terval of pain before he expired he made some reflections on his past life, saying he ought to have been a better and a greater man from the opportunity he had. He then asked to be carried to the door to see the light before darkness closed on him forever. This was done and poor Brant then passed away.f I spent the month of December, 1813, in visiting my friends in Pennsylvania, not having been home in nearly four years. It was peaceable times along the lines when I * Farmer’s Brother died March 2, 1815. His remains were removed from the Franklin Street burying-ground (site of the present City and County Hall) to Forest Lawn, Oct. 15, 1851. t It was John Brant, a son of Joseph, who, while in England in 1823, called the attention of the poet Campbell to the injustice which' the latter had done to the character of Joseph Brant, in the poem, Gertrude of Wyoming. Documents were shown to the poet which convinced him of his error; this he acknowledged in a note to a subsequent edition, but the text of the poem re- mained unchanged and is probably in no small degree responsible for the er- roneous ideas that have prevailed regarding Joseph Brant.A PIONEER TRADER. 229 left. On my return in January, 1814, I was shocked to find Buffalo in ashes.. Of all the inhabitants of that village and Black Rock the only ones I saw were Seth Grosvenor and Reuben B. Heacock, for a few minutes at Cold Spring, and a woman named Daly. They had all been scattered to the four winds, like Noah’s dove finding no rest. Sitting in my saddle I took a sorrowful survey of the ruin and desolation around me, without seeing man, beast or fowl, or anything that had the breath of life in it. In my younger days I had had a great passion for boat- ing, and my anxious desire was to go boating on the Ohio and Mississippi, but my destiny bound me to Buffalo. I now bade the place a sorrowful farewell. My intention was to build one or more boats for the Ohio River trade, but as they were now building steamboats at Pittsburgh every man that knew anything of the art was employed, and I could procure no ship-carpenters. I returned to Buffalo again, in the spring of 1814. I now found things greatly changed. Gen. Scott was now established here with quite a forge. Many traders had established themselves in shanties and temporary buildings. Some of the inhabitants had returned, and strains of martial music enlivened the scene. I now actively engaged in boating for the army. In March, 1815, I passed through a dangerous firing ordeal. In looking over some old papers I find a note I gave, under date of Willoughby [©.], March 8, 1815, prom- ising to pay John Warren or order, 10 days after date, the sum of $134.50. This note was given for the duties on about $2,000 worth of goods bought of Judge Wilkeson, with the exception of a few goods bought from Grosvenor & Heacock to complete the assortment, and a lot of boots from P. P. Pratt.* Such goods sell rapidly after war, though pro- visions do not. It was proper to sell as soon as possible; but to run the goods myself into the midst of the British army, and of the desperate fellows who always hang on the skirts of an army for plunder, was another thing. I left [Buffalo] on the morning of the 8th March and swept close along the north shore. The first sign of life I saw was * So in the MS. Samuel Pratt is probably meant.230 A PIONEER TRADER. six and a half miles below Waterloo [Fort Erie village] at Everts's. Here I landed, as it so happened at the same time that Col. Warren was passing. He said I was in his district and must settle the duty. This was a stunner. I had only a small sum with me for current expenses. He, however, took my note as above stated, and endorsed $63 on it as paid. That was for goods I sold Everts, and handed him [the money] before he'mounted. Ten miles below Waterloo I was brought to by the ad- vance picket guard. I infer this was a strong guard, as three or four commissioned officers came on board, one with the title of major. They made some purchases and I was allowed to pass on. Landing at Chippewa we were assailed with ter- rible language by army vagabonds. So terrified was a young man whom I had taken along for assistant, that he fled instantly, back to Buffalo, leaving me with the prospect that I would lose my goods if not my life. The ruffians threatened to send me, my boat and goods over the falls if I offered to vend any of my goods there. They were, they said, afraid of being . . . * Boating on the Niagara becoming dull, the 1st of June, 1815, I applied to my old friend Major Camp for business on the lake. Having done hazardous boating for him during the war, he did not hesitate to ship two companies of United States soldiers,. baggage, provisions and all, on board my two boats, Capts. Fowl and Fisher. I afterwards carried Lt. Armstrong's company, making three trips through the lake during the summer between Buffalo and Detroit. These boats were not adapted to lake navigation, being long, shallow, open boats, perfectly flat in the bottom. My mode of navigating them was to keep close in shore, noting the mouths of the creeks and rivers so as to make a harbor in case of necessity. There were no other harbors in those * The narrative aggravatingly is discontinued at this point, in the original manuscript, and in the middle of a page, indicating that Capt. Sloan did not finish it. As he calls it above “a dangerous firing ordeal,” the inference is that he escaped from the “ruffins” (as his manuscript has it) only after an exchange of something more dangerous than the “terable langage” with which they had greeted him. Incomplete as it is, the incident has its value as illustrating the difficulties attending what was probably the first attempt at international trade on the Niagara after the cessation of hostilities.A PIONEER TRADER. 281 days, and the rivers were sometimes barred over. Such superfluities as an anchor or compass I never carried, but once; and this was the cause of my losing my cargo.* Nothing worthy of note took place during the season. The last trip was a fishing excursion. To save distance I went up the Canada shore. That fall I put up 119 barrels of whitefish at Windmill Point, at the outlet of Lake St. Clair, and shipped them to Black Rock by Capt. Levi Johnson in the schooner Pilot. I cannot now recollect any vessels as belonging to Buffalo in 1815. The sloop Commodore Perry and the Pilot belonged to Cleveland. The General Jackson was built this year at Ashtabula. There were one or two poor vessels belonging to Detroit; the public (i. e., Govern- ment) vessels lay at Erie. Maj. Camp, Miller and Beard owned the brig Hunter for a short time in 1815 and then sold her to the United States. In the spring of 1816 there were several fine vessels; the schooners Michigan, Erie, and sloop Hanna. The brig Union was about 94 tons, the Michigan a little more and the Erie a little less. The schooner Neptune was brought out this year and some others of less note. The brig Union appeared to be the base of [Jonathan] Sidway’s great for- tune. Capt. James Beard, who sailed her in 1816, told me she cleared $6,000 that year. This amount in those days was a vast sum to invest in real estate.! Up to 1817 I supposed that no other agency than the winds caused the waters of Lake Erie to ebb and flow. From that date to the present time I am positive there are other causes, to me unknown. In the spring of 1817, being on a voyage to Grand River, I put in at Point Abino. Soon after landing I noticed the water was falling fast. We hastened to move the boat into deep water, but did not suc- ceed, and in a few minutes walked round the boat on bare ground, the water having fallen about two feet. The people on the Point said I need not be alarmed, as there were always tides flowing in the bay, and that the tide would soon * But he doesn’t tell us how. t Referring to profitable investments in Main Street property, made in the Sidway interest.232 A PIONEER TRADER. be in again. In about an hour I resumed my voyage. The tides still flow in Point Abino bay, but are not often so high. A very heavy ebbing of the lake took place about the last of May, 1825, the water falling three feet. I had just entered Buffalo Creek with a heavy load of goods in the boat Sally, my men propelling her with setting-poles. The day was calm and warm. In an instant we were checked by a flow of water out of the creek, giving us sternway into the lake. We, however, got lines over the spiles and checked her up. The Abagail, a large open river boat belonging to Sheldon Thompson and myself was undergoing repairs at the intersection of Main Street and the creek. He had all the caulkers he could procure at work on her, and a number of barrels of salt on the outer rim to careen her. So rapid was the fall of water that the boat was partly capsized and all the salt was lost in the creek A In 1818 I again bade Buffalo farewell, but after nearly two years of sickness and misfortune, for self and family, I returned again to Buffalo. All the preliminary arrangements to commence work on the harbor at the mouth of Buffalo Creek were completed early in May, 1820. I was called upon by Judge Wilkeson to assist in its construction. I was at a loss to know what I could do. I had just returned from a sojourn of nearly two years in the swamps of Michigan and the Maumee River, broken down in health and fortune. I, however, obtained an old boat from Sill, Thompson & Co., patched her up and commenced boating stone, from the Canada shore. The Black Rock quarries had not yet been opened, and had they been it would have been difficult to obtain stone on account of the current of the river and surf of the lake. The Buffalo Harbor Company consisted of Townsend & Coit, Samuel Wilkeson and Oliver Forward. These men mortgaged their property to the State of New York for $12,000, to construct the harbor. This was a vast sum of * Capt. Sloan gives other instances of sudden changes in Lake Erie’s level, and theorizes as to the cause, at a length to which it is hardly profitable to fol- low him. His historical recollections are more valuable than his deductions in the realm of natural phenomena.233 A PIONEER TRADER. money in those days for three houses to raise, when times were hard and property at a low figure in the village of Buf- falo. They, however, with a commendable zeal commenced the harbor, though its stability was much questioned. It was held that no harbor would stand on a bed of sand, and the company had much to discourage them; still the Super- intendent with unceasing energy and judgment pressed the work forward through the summer of 1820. And when after this long lapse of time* I look back to what was done in 1820 with the men and means employed on this work, I am astonished at what was performed. I deem it proper to notice the marine of the port of Buf- falo Creek in May, 1820. Winthrop Fox owned two boats that could have carried a cord of stone each. Jonathan Umpstead [Olmstead] owned one that carried a cord and a half. These three boats, Skate's skiff and Meadows's canoe constituted on the 1st of May, 1820, the whole marine of the port of Buffalo Creek. A yawl boat and a scow that carried a cord of stone were added soon after by the Harbor Company, for harbor purposes. Some of our citizens owned vessel stock on the lake, but hailing from other ports. The humble craft' of Meadows I give a place in the list, as he was one of the first settlers of the village of Buffalo, and has a kind of posthumous fame in the annals of our courts. I was actively engaged until about the 20th of June, in boating stone from the Canada shore. Up 'to this time my boat and a few stones from the Plains had been sufficient to sink the piers in shallow waters. The agent was now anxious that I should secure another boat. Fox, on whom they re- lied for stone, never delivered any, or his boats. Umpstead had a contract with the Walk-in-the-Water, and was boat- ing wood for that steamboat from the Indian reservation to Black Rock. I applied to my old friend James Cummings, Esq., of Chippewa, who kindly lent me a boat. Although this was done as a favor to myself, it was at this critical mo- ment of more consequence to the company. With these two boats I was able to deliver nine cords of stone per day in calm weather. My plan was to man strong and load light, Written in 1862.234 A PIONEER TRADER. so that we could heave the stone overboard if we were struck with a squall. The summer of 1820 was one of calms and light winds. The lake was said to be lower by the old set- tlers on the Canada shore than it had been since the Revolu- tionary War. The construction of Buffalo harbor being the* first at- tempt to build a harbor on the lakes,* was attended with much, difficulty and hazard. The means of the company were in- adequate for the construction of the work, and its strength was severely tested. In the fall of 1820 the sea washed the stone out of sections of the cribs as low as the surface of the water, yet the work and the trundling were so strong and faithfully done that the empty space stood the gales and the shock of the sea. But little iron was used in the harbor— only a few spike. The cribs were refilled and capped over with flattened ties to keep the sea from washing the stone out of the cribs. In opening a new channel, the present one, the harbor was again threatened with ruin by the creek un- dermining and making excavations under long sections of the cribs and partially capsizing them. Still they stood this severe test without breaking up. The wisdom of putting- large quantities of brush in the cribs was now apparent, as it prevented the stone from falling into the excavations made by the creek. Buffalo Creek previous to the construction of the harbor was exceedingly difficult to enter, a long outer bar confining its channel in shore, and causing its entrance into the lake nearly parallel with the shore. When the action of the sea, as was often the case, would confine the creek by shifting- the bar in shore, the creek would then break through the bar, washing a better entrance into the harbor. It was al- ways, however, unsafe to enter when there was a sea on the outer bar, even when there was sufficient water to do so. The channels made by the creek across the bar would gradually fill up again, thus causing a continual shifting of * This is not strictly accurate, for in the spring of 1819 harbor improve- ments were attempted at the mouth of Grand River, Ohio. The work at Buffalo' was the second attempt, and \he first success. See Capt. Augustus Walker’s, paper, in this volume.A PIONEER TRADER. 235 the channel of the creek by the action of the sea and current of the stream. Other streams of the lake entered at about right angles with the lake shore, making their entrance more direct and safe. In justice to the Superintendent of the harbor, the late Judge Wilkeson, much is due from the citizens of Buffalo, to his memory and family, for his energy and judgment in its construction. Having had much experience in harbor building since 1820 I am satisfied that no other plan than the one adopted could have resisted the fall gales of 1820. Had this work failed in 1820, the results would have been most disastrous to the village of Buffalo. Doubtless no other work of the kind would have been attempted for years after, if ever. And the city of Buffalo, its commercial in- terests, business and population would have been removed to the Niagara River. What vast results are produced by the wisdom and genius of a single individual. This noble river, with its clear running waters and fine high banks, its commercial marine, both steam and sail, bid fair to rival Buffalo and carry off the palm. Powerful com- petitors and opponents of the Buffalo harbor were now in the field, sustained by the villages from Oswego to Black Rock, pressing their claims for a harbor at the latter place. A failure in 1820 would have sealed the fate and fortunes of Buffalo. Buffalo flats and creek at this period were any- thing but inviting. From Little Buffalo Creek northerly to near the Niagara River, with the exception of a few ridges of timber and ponds of water, it was a marsh. Some of the ponds were stocked with fish. In a large one a little south- easterly of where the workhouse now stands* the soldiers assured me they had caught sturgeon. There were two out- lets to this swamp, one into Buffalo Creek near its mouth, the other into the Niagara River, where the old canal in- tersects the harbor. Previous to the war there was a rim or bank from near Buffalo Creek to the Niagara River higher than the land inside. This ridge or bank became elevated into sandhills, at a point between Buffalo Creek and Niag- * The older part of the present Erie County Penitentiary, on Fifth Street, erected 1847.236 A PIONEER TRADER. ara River, some 40 feet high, and more than half a mile in length, the whole rim or bank covered with forest. The timber on it and the ridges was taken mostly by the United States troops for the construction of barracks and for fuel. There was a wide and beautiful sand beach between the bank and the lake. There had apparently no change taken place either in the beach or the bank for a long time previous to the cutting of the timber off the banks, apparently not for centuries. The procuring of stone from the Canada shore was a dangerous and slavish operation in our old inefficient boats. Our mode was to run up close in shore and commence load- ing, and as the boat settled keep shoving out farther until loaded, lifting the stone all out of the water. None were quarried. We were often obliged to do our cooking and dry ourselves by driftwood fires, in the evening, and sleep in open boats. The labor of the harbor men was also uncom- fortable and heavy. They were, however, better fed and lodged than the boatmen. It would naturally be presumed men would break down under such drudgery. This was not, however, the case. They were cheerful and healthy. I do not recollect of a single man being sick on. the works during the summer. My own health improved rapidly. Umpstead and myself made two trips daily to the Canada shore in good weather, delivering with our boats two loads of stone each per day; and when the wants were pressing, we made three trips a day by working in the evening. The other boats gen- erally made but one trip a day. About the 20th of June I was joined by Umpstead and three boats from up the lake. This enabled the Harbor Company to reduce the price of stone from $3.50 to $3 per cord. The timber for the work was obtained in Hamburg, and delivered on the bank near the works for $30 a thou- sand, cubic measure. The harbor ties were obtained for $9 a hundred. I had several load of stone delivered on the beach at a point where the work was to commence. About six eighths of all the stone used in 1820, was ob- tained on the Canada shore, the balance from Bird Island, Light House Reef and the Plains. The citizens of FortA PIONEER TRADER. 237 Erie in the after part of the season were opposed to our taking stone, and one of my boats was seized and con- demned. Col. Warren, a friend of mine, would have given her up, as she had committed no breach of revenue law, but was overruled by his deputy and others. This misfortune reduced me again to poverty and distress. This boat the company ought to have paid me for, as I pioneered the other boats across, when the necessities of the company were pressing for stone. Two more of the boats were seized afterwards, but were retaken again by the owners at night from Fort Erie without consulting the collector. This threw the deputy into a towering rage, arid the first time I ventured into his presence, he abused the whole Yankee nation and myself in particular. But after considerable palaver it was agreed that the balance of the boats might continue getting stone by paying a small entrance fee, and that he would hold me accountable for the payment. I as- sured him I would do all in my power to collect or compel the other boats to pay the fee. We were to pay two shil- lings a load entrance, and pay up once a week. This was but partially complied with, the boats neglecting or refusing to pay the fee. The deputy, though a passionate man, was not a bad man to deal with, and the boats had no further trouble, although I was annoyed in keeping matters straight, but gained the deputy’s friendship.