Production Note Cornell University Library produced this volume to replace the irreparably deteriorated original. It was scanned using Xerox software and equipment at 600 dots per inch resolution and compressed prior to storage using CCITT Group 4 compression. The digital data were used to create Cornell's replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1984. The production of this volume was supported in part by the New York State Program for the Conservation and Preservation of Library Research Materials and the Xerox Corporation. Digital file copyright by Cornell University Library 1994.BUFFALO PAST AND PRESENT A MANUAL OF BUFFALO AND THE NIAGARA FRONTIER PREPARED BY THE STUDENTS of ENGLISH AND AMERICAN HISTORY in the BUFFALO HIGH SCHOOLS for THE N. Y. STATE TEACHER’S ASS'N 1912PRESS OF REINECKE & ZESCHKey on other side.Key to map, showing change of street names made by Village authorities shortly after the establishment of Buffalo village. Onondaga St..............................Washington St. Oneida St......................... ....Ellicott St. Schimmelpennick Ave................... Niagara St. Cazenovia Ave............................... Court St. Busti Ave...................................Genesee St. Tuscarora St. .........................Franklin St. Cayuga St............................... Pearl St. Willinck and Vanstaphorst Ave..................Main St. Stadnitski Ave...............................Church St. Vollenhoven Ave................................Erie St. Crow St....................................Exchange St.FOREWORD! THE publication of this little book was undertaken for the primary purpose of interesting the history students of the Buffalo High Schools in the study of local history, and the committee believes that this has been accomplished in spite of the somewhat adverse conditions under which the work has been done. The material for the book was collected in something less than four weeks by the students of the Central, Masten P&rk‘, Eaiayette, and Technical High Schools, whose names appear in the list below. From the total number of papers submitted the undersigned committee selected those most suit- able for publication, aud in some cases combined two or more papers in the completed narrative. Known errors have, of course, been corrected, and on disputed points the committee has followed the authorities which seemed most reliable, but absolute historical accuracy is scarcely to be expected in a work so hurriedly done. It is understood, of course, that the schools are not compet- itors, for the prize so kindly offered by Dr. Eyttle of the Division of History, but have chosen to co-operate in the work and to be free from certain restrictions which, though legitimate for a competition, would have hindered them seriously. The use of a few illustrations, for instance, seemed desirable, but the committee thought it unwise to go to the expense of having plates made when these could be supplied by the publisher. The cover design, the map of Buffalo Village, and the chart illustrat- ing industrial progress are, however, the work of students.The title, “Buffalo Past and Present”, may seem to some a trifle ambitious but we trust no one will expect to find a complete discussion of Buffalo’s past and present in a sixty-four page pamphlet prepared by high school students. Others may feel that the history of the Niagara Frontier has no place under the above title, but these, we are confident, will, on second thought admit that the history of Buffalo can not be told without reference to that of the frontier any more than the history of the frontier can be discussed without reference to that of Buffalo. In conclusion the committee extends thanks to the librarians of the Buffalo Public and of the Grosvenor Libraries, to the daily press and especially to Mr. Frank H. Severance of the Buffalo Historical Society, who has given most efficient aid to both teachers and students. ; THE COMMITTEE, Miss Matilda Hughes, C. H. S. Mrs. Mary W. Stickney, M. P. H. S. Miss Sara S. Swain, L. H. S, Miss Myrtke H. Baker, T, H. S. Peter S. McGuire, Chairman, L. H. S.List of Contributors. Abrams, Geneveive M Ackley, Lorena M. Adler, Edna Adolff, Mildred Allen, Hazel M. Alway, Mark Anthony, D. M. Atwood, Elizabeth Austin, Elmer Avery, Charles Baer, Raymond G. Bagley; E. L. Bailey, Lillian Baker, Edith M. Baker, Edward W. Baker, Florence Ballord, Eleanor Ballord,, Florence A. Balme, Howard C. Banks, William Barnsdall, Karol Barr, Jeannette Barth, Marion M. Bates, Elva Beach, Irving T. Beek, Jennie Behling, Howard Behling, Vera Beier, D. W. Beiman, Harry Bender, Norman C. Bentz, Florence Benzinger, Jean Berchen, Charles Berger, William H. Bergner, Christina Berry, Mildred Best, Ruth P. Bewley, Norman Beyer, Lillian Bianchi, Joseph Bickel, Florence Bilska, Sophia Bird, Leo Black, Hazel .Block, Mabelle Blucker, Hazel M. Borne, Clara Boysen, Arthur F. Brannschweig, Julia Brick, Leona A. Brigham, Harriet Brindley, Sarah H. Britt, Irene Broarett, Florence Brock, Wm. Buchar, Marion Buekenmuller, Viola Bullard, Evelyn Burns, George H. Butler, Clara Calkins, Ruth Cameron, Wm. R. Carden, Matthew Carey, May E. Carter, Jennie Carter, Miriam C. Catchpole, Harry Chelnis, Viola A. Chittenden, Wilbur Christ, Delia O. Chrzanowska, Lucy Churchill, Earl R. Cioll, Domenic Cleary, Alfred J. Crowder, Clifford Cloos, Charles Clucas, Frank Cobb, Clarence J. Cobb, Howard Cohen, Isadore Coller, Walter H. Collins, Loretta Condren, Francis L. Cooley, Eleanor Cornval, Katherine Coughlin, Clara E. Coyle, Mildred Cressall, Edward Crosby Ernest S. Crosby, Thomas Crowder, Elizabeth Crowder, Clifford Curran, Robert A. Curtin, Lillian M. Curtis, Henry H. Damke, Albert Darmstadter, Gertrude Davenport, Harriet E. Davey, Loretta Davis, Menera Davison, Dulce DeMarti, Joseph Dennis, Estella Deters^ Emma Dill, Harry Dillon, Marion Dirscherl, Teresa Dixson, Willard Dobmeier, Theresa Dodge, Harold Doe, Mary J. Doherty, Elizabeth Doyle, John Doyle, Mildred Drake, Miriam Drexelius, Edwin Dreyfuss, Jerome Durrenberger, Marg’t Eaton, Mildred Eggenweiler, Mildred Ellenberger, Ernest Elmore, Frank B. Eisner, Sidney N. Emerson, Bruce W. Enright, Kathleen Evans, Nellie Ey, Everett Fass, Louis A. Fairbairn, Ruth E. Faller, Howard Ferall, Mary Fetes, Frank L, Finnegan, Margaret Fischer, PMacoomb, Helen Maddigan, Helen Mangano, John J. Mannheim, Lucile Marks, Sidney M. Marshall, Helen H. Marshall, Marie Martin, Ada R. Martin, Florence Martin, Katherine G. Maw, Alfa Mayer, Edgar Mazurowska, Sophie Meade, Joseph Meech, Rose G. Meister, Margaret N. Meligan, Marcella Merris, Julian Metz, Edward Meyers, Carl Michel, Jeannette Mikulski, Helen S. Mills, Bert Mills, Erma Mitchell, Harry Montesano, Michael E Moore, Anna Morf, Clara Morgan, V. James Morse, Inez A. Munzert, Erwin L. Murdock, Thomas Murphy, Florence L. Murphy, Helen Murray, Mabel Nagel, Edna L. Nash, Helen E. Neivell, Louise Neville, Genevieve. Newlands, Aileen Nolan, Ralph W. Nowak, Frank Nowak, John J. O’Brien, Anna C. O’Brien, Elizabeth J. O’Brien, Florence O’Brien. Margaret H. O’Day, Monica O’Dea, Ethel Oliver, Jessie Palumbo, Anna Palumbo, Christina Parkes, F. Parks, Lester Paul, Norman C. Peacock, Kathryn Perkins, Evelyn Petrie Harold M. Phillips, Frances A. Pierce, Helen Piper, O. Bryant Place, Frank Pohl, Emily Polland, Esmeralda Prast, Lauraine Prouse, Esther Queiser, Herman Randolph, Harold Rassman, Arthur Read, William R. Redmond, Viola Reed, Jessie Reich, Rosalind Reilly, Bessie A. Reilly, Margaret Reimann, Eugene Reiman, Margaret E. Reinhardt, E. C. Reinhardt, Elizabeth Reinhardt, Helen Reisler, Elizabeth Risman, Louis Retel, George Reynolds, Walter H. Richardson, Flora Ritzman, Alexander Roach, Gertrude Roach, Norman Robertson, Mae Robinson, Elsie Robinson, Ruth Rodman, Olive Rogers, Ethel Rooney, Mary F. Rorick, Alma H. Rose, Katharine H. C, Rose, Mildred K. Rose, Willis K. Rosenberg, Anna B. Rosenberg, Max Rosenbloom, Edna Ross, James H. Rowe, Gordon Rundell, Ruth Russakow, F. W. Russell, Mildred Rutkowska, Mary E. Ryley, Maud V. Sapienza, Leonard L. Sauter, Cora A. — 9 — Schaefer, Karl G. Schaertel, Ruth Schaffer, Walter P. Schenk, Worthington Schlant, Norman S. Schlecht, Louis Schleider, Harley Schlossman, Fannie Schmaly, Joseph Schoedel, Carl Scholl, Edgar Schopp, Elizabeth M. Schroeder, Lillian Schulz, Laura E. Schwartz, Esther Schweitzle, Elmer Scott, Mildred Seeger, Jessie Seligman, Ruth Sellers, Marguerite Sendker, Rose Sharp, Helen Shafer, Winifred M. Sharf, Hubert Shults, Lillian C. Sill, Lilian Silverberg, Harry Smeja, Aloysious Smith, Gladys Smith, Harriet Smyth, Irene Smith, Russell Smith, W. Sommer, Martha Spaeth, Ruth Spathelf, Julia E. Spaulding Mark C. Speidel, Clara B. Spoonley, Margaret C. Stacy, Stanley C. Stagg, Eleanor Stanard, Marguerite G. Steffan, M. Steger, Robert C. Stein, Arthur Steiner, Irma Stenisman, Hazel Stevens, Jeannette Stevens, Mary Steller, Maurice Stimus, Howard Stoesser, Lillian Strasmer, Clara Strebel, Robert Stuart, Julia C. 2Sinnott, Mary F. Hyman, Sukernek -Sullivan, Cora Sullivan, Genevieve Sullivan Josephine Sullivan, Stewart Sutton, Genevieve Swannie, George W. Sweet, Clinton G, Sweet, Ralph M, Swiados, Michal Syczuwska, Alice Taylor, Mildred Tellefsen, Marjorie Thomas, William A. Thompson, Myron A. Thomson, Arthur E. Thurstone, Kenneth B, Towne, Zilpha Tracy, Mary E. Tramp, Lora Trapper, Arthur Treptan, Mildred Tombley, Clarence Tronolone, Joseph J. Trost, Esmerelda Trost, Fred Troup, Irving Turner, Warren . Twitty, Robert Tyrrell, Louis Ulrich, Sanford Underwood, Frances O. Underwood, Florence Van Arsdale, Talman Varley, Lorinda Verwiebe, Clara Vester, Bernice Vincent, Viola E. Virtue, Evelyn Volker, Harry Vollmer, Edna Vosseller, Nathalia , Wadge, Gladys I. Wagner, Charlotte Walsh, Esther Wand, Eugene Wardell, Marjorie Watson, Jessie Watts, Mary L. Weaver, Albert , Weber, Marion Webster, Hazel Weede, Clara Weil, Edwin Weinberger, Morris Weiss, Isadore Wende, Hermann Wende, Simon Wennesheimer, Marg’t Werkley, Florence Wertz, Harold B. White, Edwy White, Millard J. White, Prescott Whittlesey, Rachel F. Wierling, Ida Williams, Roland Williamson, Lela Wilson, Clark Wilson, Margaret Wilson, Naomi Wiltse, Grace Winton, Beatrix F, Winters, Gertrude Wolkind, Louis R. Wood, Alfred E. Woodcock, William Woodward, Claris J. Woodward, Effie Wohrle, Norma Wootton, Cecile Zabel, Augusta E. Zackem, Edwin Zangerle, Clarence 7wickey. Norma W. Cullen, ElsieFort Niagara in 1812. Court. Buffalo ExpressPolitical and Military History of Buffalo and the Niagara Frontier. “Often the first chapter in the history of European Con- quest is a record of war for war’s sake—the aim being ac- quisition of territory or search for gold. Not so here. The first invasion of white men in this mid-lake region was a mis- sion of peace and good-will. The Cross is stamped upon the first pages of our home history—of this Buffalo and the banks of the Niagara. Into these wilds long before the banner of an earthly kingdom was planted was borne the Cross of Christ.”* In the more than century long conflict that was. to ensue be- tween France and England for supremacy in this region the French based their claim of prior discovery and occupation upon the visits of the Jesuit priests. *Frank H. Severance—The Cross Bearers. CONFLICTING CLAIMS. Both France and England at an early date set up a claim to this territory—France by reason of early discoveries and oc- cupation by Jesuit missionaries, Courieurs de Bois, and later by La Motte, La Salle and Joncaire; England by reason of the grant of James I to Gorges in 1620 of the land from ocean to ocean and from 40 to 48 degrees, and by conquest of the Dutch at Manhattan in 1664. THE NIAGARA FRONTIER UNDER THE FRENCH AND THE ENGLISH. 1626—Father Joseph de la Roche Daillon—Franciscan of the Recollect order—came as a missionary to the Neuter Nation. First recorded visit of a white man to this region. 1640—Jean de Brebeuf—Devoted Jesuit missionary and his companion, Joseph Chaumonot, endured the greatest hard- — 13 —ships for nearly a year at Onguiara, Neuter village, on the present site of Lewiston. 1651—Senecas exterminate the Neuter Nation, and claim their territory by right of conquest. 1669—Dollier de Casson and Rene de Galinee, bent on carrying the story of the cross to the Senecas, came here from Quebec, and with them the young La Salle, bent on extending the power of France. 1678—La Salle’s second visit—On December 6th a brig- antine of ten tons burden rounded a point where Fort Ni- agara now stands, and as she cast anchor “in the beautiful river Niagara, which no bark had yet entered, the strains of the Te Deum Laudamus floated out over the silent waters.” On board were Father Hennepin, who, on December nth, said the first mass ever celebrated in this territory, and La Motte who at this time built the first trading house at Lewis- ton, a little palisaded log cabin. These founders of an em- pire were soon joined by Tonti and La Salle, the latter the in- trepid organizer of the expedition; they built tho first house of any kind on the point of land now known at Ft. Niagara, and called it Ft. Conti. Early in the following year La Salle began the building of his famous ship, The Griffin, at a place above the falls now marked by a tablet, near the village of La Salle. In the following August The Griffin was towed to Squaw Island, floated through the rapids into the lake, and the gallant La Salle in the first white man’s ship to sail Lake Erie, boldly faced the dangers of an unknown lake and a pathless wilderness. 1687— -Governor General de Nbnville built the second fort on the site where the angle of Lake Ontario and the river meet, “which was reported the most beautiful, the most pleas- ant and the most advantageous on the whole of this lake.” Here on Good Friday, 1688, Father Millet erected a huge cross and on Sunday celebrated the first Easter services on the Niagara. The English demanded the destruction of Ft. De Nonville and on July 6, 1688, the order was given for its abandonment. A waiting vessel carried the garrison to Ft. Frontenac. So ended the first chapter in the long struggle between France and England for commercial supremacy on the Niagara: . 1688- 1720—The dark decades on the Niagara—Records seem to vanish, and exploits cease, but through these dark — 14 —decades our regional history centers about the elusive figure! of Chabert de Joncaire, French interpreter, Soldier and Seneca by adoption, and it was owing to his diplomacy and influence with the Indians that the French received permission from the Senecas to build in 1720 the famous “Magazin Royal” at the foot of the portage around the great falls. This famous “Cabin of Bark” was located on the site of La Motte’s housd just east of the present Suspension Bridge at Lewiston, at the head of a little ravine through which the Indians passed with their fur laden canoes to place them in the quiet waters of the lower Niagara. The establishment of this trading post was a great achievement for the French, for ever since La Salle built his first house on the river in 1679 the French had longed for its possession and the adroit Joncaire had crowned with success the efforts of forty years. i 1721—The first house party on the Niagara—at Magaziii Royal. Father Charlevoix was among the distinguished guests. 1725—THE OLD CASTLE, a stone fortress was built at Ft. Niagara. It is still standing and is the most interesting relic of the French occupation of the Niagara region, and the oldest building west of Albany. This was the greatest triumph of French diplomacy. The Senecas had given their permission to the building of a stone house, at Niagara, but the next year at a council in Albany the mighty league of the, Iroquois atoned for this blunder by ceding a strip of land along the south shore of Lake Ontario to the English. Thus the land on which the new fortress stood was English, but it was to take England another generation to' dispossess the victorious tenant. During this time Ft. Niagara more than; any other spot in this country, except Quebec,1 was the symbol’ of French power on this continent. It was the most important of her forest-buried military posts by which she connected Louisiana with New France. It controlled the historic high- way for canoes on their way to Oswego and Albany, and was consequently her most important trading post; 1759—We must pass quickly over these years when Eng- land exerted every means in her power to secure control of this region and come to that last great struggle between-; France and England for supremacy in North America, The French and Indian War. Ft. Niagara was one of the ob- jective points of the war, and after a gallant struggle sur- — 15 —rendered July 25, 1759. By the treaty of Paris, 1763, the Niagara Region was ceded to the English. See Sidelights, The Battle of Fort Niagara. For several years after the capture of Ft. Niagara, Sir William Johnson was, so far as the Indians were concerned, the most trusted and the most famous man in America. He was superintendent of the northern Indians, and although he lived like a feudal baron at Johnson’s Hall in the valley of the Mohawk, the seat of his power was at Ft. Niagara. 1:763—The Massacre of the Devil’s Hole. 1764—Greatest Indian Council ever assembled at Ft. Ni- agara. Here came 2,060 Indians, representing tribes from Nova Scotia to the head waters of the Mississippi. It re- quired all of Sir William Johnson’s tact and diplomacy to harmonize all of the rival claims of these various tribes. This Indian council cost England $200,000, but it was money well spent, for the Senecas deeded to England a strip of land four miles wide on each bank of the Niagara, and all the islands in the river to Sir William Johnson, who immediately turned over this land to his royal master, George III. 1783—Treaty of Paris: Sovereignty over the east bank of the Niagara passed to the United States, but the. British still held Ft. Niagara, and assumed jurisdiction over the In- dians of Western New York. THE VILLAGE OF BUFFALO. 1785-9°—First permanent settlers—Ezekiel Lane, Mar- tin Middaugh, Cornelius Winne, and Capt. Wm. Johnson built houses at the mouth of “Buffalo Creek.” Lane seems to have been the first, though this is a disputed point—Massachu- setts and New York both claimed the western part of New York State, but in 1786 Massachusetts gave up her claim to sovereignty, retaining title to the land, subject to the Indian right of occupancy. All the land west of the Genesee River was sold to Robert Morris, who, in turn, transferred the west- ern part, including the city of Buffalo, to several Americans, who held it in trust for a party of Hollanders, commonly known as the Holland Land Company. 1796—July 4th: Fort Niagara and other posts along the Great Lakes were given up by the British. — IS —iygS—Survey of the “Holland Purchase”: This work was under the supervision of Joseph Ellicott, who planned a village at the mouth of “Buffalo Creek,” which he called New Amsterdam. 1802— Genesee County was created by act of Legislature. New Amsterdam, then called Buffalo by the settlers, was a part of the town of Batavia. 1803— Survey of New Amsterdam according to the plan drawn by Ellicott (see map) : First blacksmith shop erected. 1804— First Post Office established at “Buffalo Creek”—- Erastus Granger first postmaster. 1805— Buffalo made a Port of Entry. 1806-7—First school taught by Mr. Hiram Hanchett, in the old Middaugh house. The construction of the first public school was begun in 1807 by popular subscription. Mr. Sam- uel Whiting was the first teacher. 1808—Niagara County established with Buffalo as the county seat. First Court held in Landon's tavern, but a court house was built within a few years. 1810— The town of Buffalo created by act of Legislature. Porter, Barton & Co., built a warehouse at the “Black Rock,” which formed a natural landing place on the east side of the Niagara near the present ferry. This was the beginning of the village of Black Rock, which was a formidable rival of Buffalo for many years. 1811— Establishment of the first newspaper, “The Buffalo Gazette.” Black Rock made a Port of Entry. 1812— 13—Second War for Independence. During the war the Niagara frontier was the chief center of operations, and Buffalo bore the brunt of the conflict, being twice in- vaded by the British and finally burned, January 1, 1814. 1816—The village had been so far rebuilt as to be able to secure a charter from the State Legislature, under the name of Buffalo. 1818—The first steamboat on the Great Lakes was built at Black Rock, and named “Walk in the Water.” 1821-21—The first complete tannery: Beginning of Buf- falo's leather industry. Organization of Erie County, 1821. 1821-23—This year witnessed the construction of Buf- falo's first harbor; also a controversy between Black Rock and — 17 3Buffalo as to which should be the western terminus of the Erie Canal. The opening of the harbor enabled Buffalo to claim the coveted prize. 1825—Opening of the Erie Canal. Buffalo becomes the point of arrival and departure for emigrants to the West. THE CITY OF BUFFALO. Old Market. Terrace and Pearl St. Buffalo’s First Municipal Building. 1832—The effect of the opening of the Erie Canal was clearly shown by the growth of population which enabled Buffalo to apply to the Legislature for incorporation as a city, with 10,000 people; Dr. Ebenzer Johnson, first Mayor. This year is also memorable for the visitation of Asiatic Cholera, which cost 80 lives. 1834—The first daily newspaper. The Buffalo Daily Star. First railroad, The Buffalo & Black Rock—cars drawn by horses. 1836— The first steam railroad from Buffalo to Niagara Falls. Station at Terrace and Pearl streets. Organization of the city school department. Noah P. Sprague and Oliver G. Steele were among the first superintendents. 1837- 38—The Patriot War. Some citizens of Buffalo sympathized with the “Patriots” of Upper Canada, who were endeavoring to secure a reform in the government of that province. The patriots had their headquarters on Navy — 18 —Island and a steamboat, the “Caroline,” plying between Schlosser’s dock and the island, was captured at night, by the British, set on fire and sent over the falls. First militia regi- ment, the Buffalo City Guard, organized. 1848—The Free Soil Convention. This was a mass con- vention attended by men from every northern state, also from Delaware, Maryland and Virginia. This convention met under a great tent in Lafayette Square and nominated Mar- tin Van Buren and Charles Francis Adams on a platform of “Free Soil, Free Speech, Free Labor and Free Men.” The only result of the Free Soil movement was to throw New York State from the Democrats to the Whigs, and make possible the election of the Whig candidate, Zachary Taylor, a slave holder. 1852— In this year the Central High School was opened in part of the present building. The first public high school. 1853— New Charter. Annexation of Black Rock. Popu- lation of Buffalo increased from 42,261 in 1850 to 81,126 in i860. 1857—The formation of two lumber companies marks the beginning of one of Buffalo’s foremost industries. 1861-65—In the War of the Rebellion, Buffalo and Erie County played a conspicuous part. Erie County’s regiments, the 21st, 49th, 100 and 116th, fought bravely, and in all of them Buffalo was well represented; Wiedrich’s Battery, com- posed entirely of Germans, was one of the most famous of Erie County organizations, and served with distinction throughout, the war. It is worthy of note, also, that Erie County’s representative in Congress, Mr. Elbridge Spauld- ing, was the father of the “Greenbacks,” which with all their faults were a big factor in the struggle for the Union. 1864—First nail factory established; Buffalo Foundry & Machine Company; Beginnings of Buffalo Steel Industry. 1866—Fenian Invasion. 1870-90—Two decades of remarkable commercial and in- dustrial growth. Railroad strike of 1877 necessitated calling out of several regiments of state militia. First electric street cars, 1890. J 1895—Introduction of . Niagara Falls power. 1897—National Grand Army Encampment. — 19 —1898—Spanish-American War. Buffalo was represented by the 65th Regiment and by the 202nd Volunteers. 1901—From May 1st to December 1st, was held the Pan- American Exposition which was planned to show the progress of the American Continents during the 19th Century. The Exposition was not a success financially, but served to ad- vertise Buffalo as an industrial center. The assassination of President McKinley in the Temple of Music on September 5th cast a gloom over the last months of the Exposition and partially accounts for the financial loss sustained. Historic Sites on Niagara Frontier. Fort Erie—Opposite Buffalo on the Canadian shore, established by Gen. Bradstreet in 1764. It was captured by the Americans under Gen. Scott, July 3, 1814, and held for the remaining six months of the war. On one of the ramparts stands a monument erected to the memory of the soldiers and sailors who fell during the war of 1812. Chippewa—A small village on the Canadian side of the river about two miles above the Falls. In a field near the village the Americans defeated the British, July 5, 1814. The only trace of military operations remaining is the mound of a redoubt on the island at the mouth of Chippewa Creek. Lundy’s Lane—One of the battle fields of the war of 1812, at Niagara Falls, Ont. On the top of the hill is a granite monument which bears the following inscription: “Erected by the Canadian Parliament in honor of the victory gained by the British and Canadian forces on this field on the 25th day of July, 1814, and in grateful memory of the brave men who died on that day fighting for the unity of the Empire.” Brock’s Monument—Located at Queenston Heights, erected in honor of Gen. Sir James Brock, who was killed on October 13, 1812. The spot where Brock fell is part way down the slope toward Queenston, and is marked by a ceno- taph erected by the Prince of Wales (afterwards Edward VII) when visiting America. — 20 —Fort George—Located near the mouth of the Niagara River on the Canadian side, erected 1795. It played an im- portant part in the war of 1812. Fort Niagara—The Old Castle or Mess House was erected by the French in 1725 and became the central point in the struggle for French or English supremacy in this region. It was captured by the British in December, 1813, and oc- cupied by British soldiers until the Treaty of Ghent in 1815. It is the most interesting landmark on the Niagara Frontier. At Lewiston—Within the grounds of the old homestead of Major Benjamin Barton is a tablet-marked boulder read- ing: “On this spot Gen. Winfield Scott, October 13, 1812, stationed a battery of the United States Artillery, at the open- ing of the battle of Queenston Heights, the first conflict on the Niagara Frontier in the War of 1812.” Devil’s Hole—A chasm in the wall of the Niagara Gorge three miles above Lewiston. At its foot is a tablet bearing the following inscription: “At the top of the cliff above this spot, September 14, 1763, occurred the Devil’s Hole Masascre, where 500 Seneca Indians ambushed a British Supply Train, massacred its escort and hurled the bodies and wagons into the chasm below, only three, John Steadman, William Mat- thews and one other, escaping.” La Salle—A village on the American side of the river five miles south of Niagara Falls. At this place the Griffin was built, and a boulder with the following inscription marks the spot: “Here about, in May 1679, Robert Cavelier de La Salle built the Griffin of 60 tons burden, the first vessel to sail the upper lakes. Historic Sites in the City of Buffalo* MARKED BY TABLETS. St. John House—Main Street near Court, present site of H. A. Meldrum Co store. This was the only house left stand- ing after the burning of Buffalo by the British. — 21 —The Old Court House.First Public School House—Swan Street, corner of Pearl, present site of the Dun Building. First Court House—Washington Street, facing Lafay- ette Square. Site now occupied by the Buffalo Public Li- brary. Fort Tompkins—Niagara and School streets. Site now occupied by buildings of International Railway Company. Graves of soldiers who died of camp fever during the War of 1812. Boulder in center of Park Meadow. Memorial to the officers and enlisted men of the Thir- teenth Regiment, United States Infantry, in the campaign against Santiago de Cuba. Southern end of parade ground at Fort Porter. Battle of Black Rock—Niagara Street Bridge over Sca- jaquada Creek. NOT MARKED BY TABLETS* Seneca Mission Church—South Buffalo. Indian Church Avenue now crosses the site. Old First Church—Shelton Square, where the Erie County Savings Bank now stands. Eagle Tavern—Main Street, below Court. Center of the social and political life of Buffalo for nearly a generation. The J. L. Hudson Company’s store now occupies the ground. Eagle Street Theater—Present site of Hotel Iroquois. The old theater was burned and rebuilt as St. James Hall. Sailors Battery—Mouth of Scajaquada Creek. This bat- tery protected the small navy yard situated at this point dur- ing the War of 1812, in which a portion of Perry’s fleet was fitted out. Porter Mansion—Niagara Street, between Ferry and Breckenridge. Site of this historic home is completely sur- rounded by the E. R. Thomas Automobile Factory. — 23 —Historic Houses of Buffalo, Home of Millard Fillmore—Now the Castle Inn, Niagara Square and Delaware Avenue. Wilkeson Homestead—Niagara Square, between Court and Niagara Streets. Home of Judge Samuel Wilkeson, to whom Buffalo owes the construction of her first harbor. Johnson Cottage—Delaware Avenue and Johnson Park. Home of Buffalo’s first Mayor. The house was built in the form of an Italian Villa and dates from the year 1834. Milburn Residence—1168 Delaware Avenue. In this house, then the home of Hon. John D. Milburn, President Mc- Kinley died, September 14, 1901. Home of Ansley D. Wilcox—641 Delaware Avenue. This building was once the home of the commandant of Buffalo’s first military barracks, but has been much altered in recent years. Here Theodore Roosevelt took the oath of office as President of the United States, September 14, 1901. The Griffin House—2485 Main Street, second house be- yond the Belt Line. Ony house now standing within present limits of Buffalo which escaped destruction at the burning of Buffalo, January 1, 1814, second oldest house in Erie County. Seneca Mission House—Buffam Street, near Seneca. For many years the home of Mr. and Mrs. Asher Wright, and with the old mission church, now destroyed, the center of their missionary efforts among the Senecas. Other Places of Historic Interest, Lafayette Square—Scene of many famous gatherings in the early history of Buffalo. Here Lafayette was introduced to the people of Buffalo in 1826. The Free Soil Convention of 1848 met in this square. It is now marked by the Soldiers and Sailors Monument, dedicated to the memory of the mem- bers of the Army and Navy, who died in defense of the Union during the Civil War. — 24 —The Eagle Tavern. 4Niagara Square—Also the scene of many important events in the history of Buffalo. Here the 21st Regiment assembled prior to its departure for the front, May 3, 1861. The McKinley Monument—Raised by the citizens of Buf- falo in memory of the martyred President, occupies the center of this square. Fort Porter—Old fort, recently destroyed, dates from 1845. Named in honor of General Peter B. Porter, commander of volunteers in War of 1812, and, later, Secretary of War. Red Jacket Monument—Forest Lawn, near the Delaware entrance, marks the last resting place of the noted orator and chief of the Senecas; also of Cornplanter and other chiefs of the tribe whose remains were removed in 1884 from the old Indian burying ground on Buffam Street, now known as Sen- eca Indian Park. Buffalo- Social, Institutional, Literary, and Artistic* BEGINNINGS OF BUFFALO. Buffalo as a white man’s settlement goes back only to 1784. A portion of it was the seat of Seneca villages, remains of which may be traced on the banks of Buffalo and Cazenovia Creeks, and also within the limits of Delaware Park. Red Jacket lived in South Buffalo. When he died in 1830 he was buried in the old Indian burying ground on Buffam Street. His remains were afterwards removed to Forest Lawn. The first survey of Buffalo Creek, as this region was first called, was made in 1764. The first settler, according to some authorities, was Ezekiel Lane; according to others, Cornelius Winne, who came in 1784 and built a cabin on the bank of Buffalo Creek. In 1796 there were only four white residents in what is now Buffalo. In this year, the English gave up con- trol of the eastern side of Niagara River which they had prom- ised to do in 1783. — 26In 1801-1802 the land was surveyed and laid out into lots for the Holland Land Company, who called the place New Amsterdam. This name was dropped in 1811 for the present one—Buffalo—spelled either with or without the final e. The name of the Creek was transferred to the town. It is said to have originated from herds of American Bison which fed near, and whose bones have been found in the vicinity. FOREIGN ELEMENTS IN OUR POPULATION. Buffalo, like all large American cities, has a large foreign population of which the most numerous are the Germans, the Poles and the Italians. German Buffalo—There are j^iyeoo German-Americans in our city. The first emigrants came in 1821 from Alsace and South Germany; among their names are the following well known in the history of Buffalo: Beyer, Bronner, Brunk, Goetz, Haberstro, H auenstein, Mesmer, Metzger, Schoell- kopf and Urban. Doctor Frederick Dellanbaugh was elected Alderman in 1839, our first German city official. Their newspapers are “Die Weltburger,” first published 1837, and united 1853 with “Der Demokrat,” established 1848; “Die Freie Presse,” established 1855, and “Der Volksfreund” 1868. ‘ The Buffalo Turnverein for athletic culture was or- ganized 1853. Polish Buffalo—The first party of Polish emigrants came in 1869. Others soon followed, and each year more have come until they number 80,000, only one other American city hav- ing a larger Polish population. Their bonds of race are very strong even in their new home. They are industrious and when possible own their own homes. They have twelve Cath- olic churches and one Independent church. A large building at the corner of Broadway and Playter streets is “Dorn Polski,” meaning “Polish Home”. It contains the largest Polish Library in New York State, and also a branch of the Public Library. Various societies hold meetings there, a branch of the Polish National Alliance, a gymnastic society, and a charity organization. They have also various singing societies. — 27 —Italian Buffalo—The Italians of Buffalo are largely of the laboring classes. The first colony came in i860. There are now 15,000 Italian-Americans in Buffalo. Many of the younger ones are entering the professions after a course of study in our schools. Jewish Buffalo—The Jews came early in the history of Buffalo, and are mostly of three races, the German, the Polish and the Portuguese. They have eight synagogues, the chief ones being Temple Beth Zion on Delaware Avenue, built 1890, and Temple Berth El in Richmond Avenue, built 1910. They look after their own poor, and are active in charities. The Jacobsohn Society was organized 1847, f°r the needy, the sick and the burial of the dead. All the separate charities have been incorporated in the Federated Jewish Charities of Buffalo. The co-operating branches are the Sewing and Aid Societies, The Stocking Club, The Fresh Air Camp, The Legal Aid Bureau, The Young Ladies' Benevolent Society and the Good Citizens' Club. The Churches of Buffalo—There are many churches in our city, but in 1812 there was only one, the First Presby- terian Church, organized by Reverend Thaddeus Osgood in a barn at the corner of Main and Genesee streets. The origi- nal membership was twenty-nine. When the British burned Buffalo, Elder Amos Callender escaped to Batavia with the first record book. In 1815 the church was incorporated with the title, “The First Presbyterian Society of the Town of Buffalo.” In 1823 their first building was erected on the site of the Erie County Savings Bank at a cost of $17,500. It was dedicated March, 1827. The second church organized in Buffalo was St. Paul’s Episcopal Church. Papers for its incorporation, signed by leading men, were drawn up 1817, and election of wardens and vestrymen took place in the following year. In 1819 Joseph Ellicott, agent of the Holland Land Company, offered the church vestry a lot at the corner of Main and Erie streets for a building site. The first church service was held in the house of Elias Ransom, Main and Huron streets, where Bes- ser’s store now stands. Afterwards meetings were held in the Eagle Tavern, Main Street, enar Court, until the erection of their church building in 1824. . It was a frame building and Gothic style, painted in shades of blue, v^ith, a modest tower having four spires at each corner at the top. It was furnished like the Parish churches of England with a high pulpit and — 28 —desk, background and seats being curtained and cushioned in bright red. It was consecrated by Bishop Hobart. In 1850 it was sold to the German Evangelical St. Peter’s Church, and removed to Genesee and Hickory streets. The first church building to be completed in Buffalo was the First Methodist, erected in 1818 in 48 days. It measured 25 by 35 feet. In 1829 the Niagara Street Methodist Church, corner of Niagara and Franklin streets, was built. It was later sold to the Jewish congregation and became the Temple Beth Zion, being finally torn down to make room for the Masonic Temple. Trinity Church, built in 1837, by Reverend Cicero Hawks, was the Second Episcopal Church. It was first at the corner of Washington and South Division streets, later on Wash- ington near Swan, in 1841 removed to Mohawk and Wash- ington streets. It is now on Delaware Avenue, near Tupper. The first Roman Catholic Mass in Buffalo was said in St. Paul’s Episcopal Church in 1821, by a visiting Bishop, the Right Rev. Henry Conwell of Philadelphia, who was on a westward journey. Later Rochester clergymen made occa- sional visits. The Rev. Boden of Kentucky made a visit of six weeks, holding mass sometimes in the Court House, and sometimes in the home of Louis Le Couteulx. In 1829 Le Couteulx gave a piece of property in trust for the Catholics of Buffalo, which was dedicated in 1829 by Bishop Dubois. In the fall of 1829 he sent them a priest, Father Nicholas Mertz, who in 1831 erected on the consecrated lot a small wooden church called “The Lamb of God,” known afterwards as St. Louis Church. The congregation was French, German and Irish. In 1837 the Irish members withdrew and held services in various places until in 1841 the original St. Pat- rick’s Church was built at Broadwav and Ellicott streets, be- coming the nucleus of St. Mary’s Church at Broadway and Pine streets. St. Toseph’s Cathedral was built through the efforts of Bishop Timon, the first Bishop of Buffalo, who after a study of Gothic Cathedrals in Europe had the plans for St. Joseph’s made. He purchased in Munich a magnificent chime of 43 bells, the third largest in the world, and the finest in America. The tower was too small for their perfect manipulation. It is hoped that when the new cathedral is finished they may be properly hung and'played, and that Buffalo may be known — 29 —connected the Niagara and the Parade. Cazenovia Park was laid out in 1887, Bennett Park added, and the Zoo begun* The Botanical Garden at South Buffalo was added 1894. The Schools of Buffalo—The first school house of Buf- falo was built at the eorner of Pearl and Swan streets, where the Dun building now stands. Samuel Whiting was the first teacher in 1807. In 1810 a grammar ‘ school was opened in the Court House with Amos Callender as teacher. After the war some new school houses were built. No. 2, Main near Huron, 1815; No. 3, Cold Springs, 1816; No. 12, Hydraulics, 1817; Nos. 15 on Perry Street, 16 Goodell and Washington, 17 South Division, 1831. A few private schools existed in Buffalo before the war. There was one on Buffalo Creek above the foot of Main Street. The building had only one window with no glass, but plenty of light came through the cracks in the logs. The fur- niture consisted of a small table and three benches. Reading was taught at first and spelling added afterwards. There were about twenty scholars; two of the older boys acted as sub- teachers. The principal taueht the i younger children and whipped them all. Millard Fillmore taught for a time in a school on Main Street near Mohawk. The city schools were organized and a superintendent ap- pointed in 1836. Noah P. Sprague and Oli rer G. Steele were among the early superintendents, and were most efficient in seeing defects and suggesting remedies. The schools were made free in 1839. In 1838 there was a reorganization of school districts, and new buildings were erected, for which a tax was imposed. Many citizens bitterly opposed this tax, as they could not see the advantages which were to follow. The Buffalo High School Association was projected in 1827. The Central High School is the oldest and mother school. For many years it occupied a private dwelling house on its present site. There are now three other high schools, Masten Park, Lafayette and Technical. In the school depart- ment are also sixty-two grammar schools, a school of prac- tice, a teacher’s training school and a truant school, and in these sixty-five thousand pupils are taught. ' The standard of education has steadily improved, es- pecially in methods of teaching and qualification of teachers. The city charter of 1892 created a board of school examiners appointed by the Mayor, who hold all examinations of appli- — 31 —cants for teachers’ positions, keep an eligible list of those who pass, inspect public schools and report to the Common Coun- cil. The Jesse Ketnchum Memorial Fund for betsowing medals as a reward for high scholarship in the high and gram- mar schools was founded in 1871 by B. H. Brennan, a son-in- law of Jesse Ketchum. Free text books were introduced in 1893. During the winter there are evening schools for gram- mar grades in thirteen districts, and two evening high schools. We have also twelve kindergartens connected with our grammar schools. There are sixty-four parochial schools, conducted by the Catholics, the Evangelical churches, the Lutherans and the Jews, where religion is taught as well as ordinary school sub- jects. There are a number of private academies. The Buf- falo Seminary was founded in 1831 for the education of girls, and was at first called the Buffalo Female Academy. Their Graduates’ Association was organized in 1876. Well known principals have been Prof. West, Dr. Chester and Mrs. Hartt. St. Margaret’s, a preparatory school for girls, is at North and Franklin streets. The Acad- emy of the Sacred Heart under the Sisters of St.. Francis is on Washington Street, below North. Mount St. Mary’s, known as Miss Nardin’s school, is in Cleveland Avenue. The Holy Angel’s Academy, under the Gray Nuns, is in Porter Avenue. There are also St. Vincent’s, Mount Mercy and Mount St. Joseph. For boys are St. Joseph’s under the charge of the Christian Brothers, the Nichols School, the Franklin and the Elmwood schools. There is also a State Normal School in Buffalo. There are four colleges: The University of Buffalo, in- corporated by act of Legislature in 1842, for the study of medicine. Women were admitted in 1874. Fifty-six women have received diplomas. There are also departments of phar- macy, dentistry and law. Efforts are now being made to estab- lish a department of art. The German Martin Luther Theo- logical College was opened in 1840 by Reverend J. A. Grabau for the education of Lutheran Ministers and teachers. Canisius College, conducted by the Society of Jesus, was founded for young men in 1870, and has been em- powered by the University of the State of New York to confer degrees. It has both an academic and a collegt course. — 32 —as the city of the beautiful bells. Bishop Ryan was the sec- ond bishop of Buffalo. Bishop Quigley, now Archbishop of Peoria, the third, and Bishop Colton is the fourth. The First Baptist congregation of the city was organized in 1822 with the name of the “First Baptist Church of Christ in Buffalo.” For seven years it worshipped in the old Court House on Washington Street. In 1829 it built on land do- nated by the Holland Land Company at Seneca and Wash- ington streets, a frame church, which was later acquired by the United States Government for a Post office. A new building was then erected on Washington Street near Swan at a cost of $24,000, and the name was changed to the “Wash- ington Street Baptist Church.” Two Old Churches. Parks and Public Grounds—Prior to 1876 Buffalo had an abundance of foliage and well kept private grounds with plenty of air space furnished by unoccupied lots, thus giving- ventilation and adornment. Healthful recreation for the pub- lic had been neglected. Only small plots such as Johnson's Park, being given for public use. The park system was inaugurated by William Dorscheimer. Twelve park commissioners were appointed, who selected 500 acres of land for park purposes, now known as Delaware Park. Frederick Law Olmsted, architect of Central Park, New York, was secured to superintend the work. Mr. McMillan, created the arboreal beauty of the park. He was made superintend- ent in 1873. In 1874 the park lake was finished, and a drive — 30 —D’Youville College, an outgrowth of the Academy of the Holy Angels, was incorporated in 1908, and has power to confer degrees and diplomas. The Buffalo Public Library—A company of stockholders, composed of professional and commercial men, manufacturers and bankers, made the first attempt to establish a library in the village of Buffalo in 1816. Their object was mental improve- ment, and they provided for a library, reading rooms, and winter courses of lectures, given by volunteers. In 1832 they had acquired seven hundred volumes. In 1836, at a public meeting of young men aclled at the Court House, a member- ship library was established with reference and reading rooms. They occupied a part of old St. James Hall, corner Main, Eagle and Washington streets, and took the name of the “Young Men’s Association of the City of Buffalo.” In 1862 they purchased the property where the Iroquois Hotel now stands and remodeled the building to receive the Historical Society, the Society of Fine Arts and the Society of Natural Sciences. The present building was erected in 1887 at a cost of $338,000. The name was changed to Buffalo Library. In 1896 it was made free. It has four branches and seven de- livery sub-stations. Other libraries are the Grosvenor, the gift of Seth Grosvenor, the Mechanics’ Institute, the Catholic Institute and the Lutheran Young Men’s Association. The Buffalo Historical Society—It was organized in 1862, and has grown steadily in importance, in size and in the esteem of the people. Its roll of officers from its first presi- dent, Millard Fillmore, to those of today has been a roll of honor. From 1887 to 1904 it occupied the third floor of the Buffalo Public Library. Since then it has been lodged in its own building in Delaware Park—the joint property of the State of New York and the City of Buffalo. It has valuable museums, North American, Egyptian and Assyrian, Manu- scripts, Original Poems, Maps and Contracts, and a libary of fifteen thousand volumes and twenty-five thousand pamphlets. It maintains an annual course of lectures and issues valuable publications yearly. The Albright Art Gallery—It was organized in 1862 as the “Buffalo Fine Arts Academy,” and shared the building of the Buffalo Public Library until 1904 when it removed to a plot of land given by the Rumsey estate on which stands a beautiful white marble building, erected by John J. Albright. It is of pure doric architecture, and contains a large collec- — 33 —tion of paintings, casts of Greek and Roman sculpture and historical collections of prints and etchings. Buffalo Clubs—It is to the credit of Buffalo that its earl- iest club was literary and called “The Nameless.” It was established in 1858 by Guy H. Salisbury. It included men and women. Among them were the well known names of Wil- liam P. Letchworth, David Gray, James N. Johnston, John Harrison Mills, Mary A. Ripley, Annie R. Annan and Amanda T, Jones. Club organizations and clubhouses have acquired their present importance within the term of a generation. The first purely society institution was the Buffalo Club, organized in 1867, with Ex-President Millard Fillmore, as its first presi- dent. The Falconwood Club for yachting, hunting and fish- ing with its clubhouse on Grand Island, was organized in 1869. The Oakfield Club, similar to the Falconwood, was or- ganized in 1873, the Press Club in 1882, the Canoe Club in 1883, the Saturn Club in 1885, the Country Club in 1889, the University Club in 1894. The various women’s clubs were united into the “City Federation of Women’s Clubs” in 1903. The Twentieth Century Club for women was organized in 1896. The Buffalo Chapter of the Daughters of the American Revolution was organized in 1901, and Daughters of 1812 in 1904. The Banks of Buffalo—In olden times Buffalo had no banks of its own. It was merely a sub-station to the banks of Chicago and New York. The first Buffalo Bank was es- tablished in 1816, followed by the Bank of Niagara in 1831, and the Bank of Buffalo in 1836. In 1839 the United States Bank, Merchants’ Bank, Mechanics Bank, and Erie County Bank. In 1840 Farmers’ Mechanics’ Bank, with the Honor- able E. G. Spaulding, the Father of Greenbacks, as president. The Marine Bank was organized in 1850, and became a na- tional bank in 1902. The Citizens’ Bank in East Buffalo was chartered in 1890, the Colonial National in 1892, the Market Bank in 1903, the Union Stockyard Bank in 1905. The Buf- falo Loan and Trust and Safe Deposit Bank came in 1883, and the Fidelity Trust in 1892. We have the following sav- ings banks: Buffalo Savings Bank in 1846, Western Savings Bank in 1851, Erie County Savings Bank in 1854. The history of Buffalo’s banks shows progression along financial lines. — 31 —The Water Supply of Buffalo—Until 1826, the villages of Buffalo and Black Rock, which were separated towns, de- pended entirely on wells for water supply. The few who lived near enough might draw water from Niagara River or Buffalo Creek. The Jubilee Water Works Company was or- ganized for distribution of water from Jubilee Springs on the west side of Delaware Avqnue. The water was pumped to the Black Rock district and through Main Street to the Canal. In 1832 there were sixteen miles of wooden pipe line. For the privilege of using the water, houses paid seven dollars a year, offices and stores five dollars. The Buffalo City Water Works Company was organized in 1849. They pumped water from the Niagara River through a tunnel from the outer side of Bird Island under the Erie Canal and Black Rock harbor. The reservoir for storing the water, which held eleven million gallons, was on Niagara, Connecticut, Vermont and Prospect avenues. Since 1868 the water supply has been under municipal management. In 1894 a new reservoir holding no million gallons was constructed at Best, Jefferson, Dodge and Masten streets. Another pump- ing station designed to meet the needs of one million people is in process of construction at foot of Porter Avenue. Other Public Utilities—Street Car Service—The present efficient service has been of slow growth. From the days of the Buffalo Railway Company to the International Railway Company of our own time—from horse power to eltcric power. The first route was from the foot of Main Street to Genesee Street, then out Niagara, then through Genesee and Broadway. The cars were dimly lighted with oil lamps, and in winter straw was strewn on the floors for warmth. The Niagara Street line was the first run by electricity. Lines were reconstructed with heavier rails and more modern cars. In 1902 sixteen lines were combined into the International Railway Company. There are today three hundred and sixty- five miles of track, and twelve hundred and fifty cars in ser- vice kept in ten car Rouses. The Telephone—Like most towns we have the Bell Tele- phone and the rival, which we call the Frontier. The first installed in 1879, the second in 1903 . Buffalo Gas Company—The first company was founded in 1848. Many small companies succeeded, but were finally united under one management, “The Buffalo Gas Company.” It has three hundred and eighty-five miles of mains. — 35 —Iroquois Natural Gas Fuel Company—It is supplied prin- cipally from the Pennsylvania fields, and is under control of the United Natural Gas Company. Hospitals—The General Hospital was founded in 1855 on High Street, where it still stands. A training school for nurses was added in 1877, and a diet kitchen and ambulance were brought into use. A children’s ward was established in 1884. The Sisters’ Hospital, conducted by the Sisters of Charity, was founded in 1883. They also have charge of the Emergency Hospital for accidental cases. The Homeopathic Hospital, now called the Hahnemann, occupies a fine new building on Lafayette Avenue. The Buffalo State Hospital for the Insane is on Forest Avenue. The Children’s Hospital on Bryant Street was founded in 1892. The Women’s Hos- pital is in Georgia Street, the Hospital for contagious diseases, on Broadway, the Columbus for Italians, on Niagara Street, and the Frontier Hospital, on Main Street. The German Hos- pital is on Jefferson Street, the German Deaconess’ Hospital, long on Kingsley Street, is occupying new quarters on Riley Street. Lexington Heights Hospital is on Lexington Avenue. The Mercy Hospital, under charge of the Sisters of Mercy, is in Tifft Street. The Quarantine Hospital is in East Ferry Street, the Riverside in Lafayette Avenue, the Riverside Ac- cident Hospital East Swan Street, and the United States Marine Hospital for lake sailors is in Main Street. Charity Organizations—Our city is especially proud of her charitable institutions. Prior to the Civil War, there were only three, the Orphan Asylum, the Sisters’ Hospital, and the Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum. The following is an alphabetic list of those in existence: The Buffalo Orphan Asylum was organized by Buffalo women in 1836. its first board of managers being chosen from the different churches. In 1848 it received a lot in Virginia Street given by Mr. Le Couteulx. In 1912 they removed to their new quarters in Elmwood Avenue. , The Asylum has a cpacity for two hundred children and a fine infants’ ward. The Children’s Aid Society was originated by the Y. M. C. A. of Grace Methodist Church. Its organization as a home for boys earning- their own living- is attributed to a letter written by the late William P. Letchworth. In 1908 through the generosity of Mrs. Campbell a home on Delaware Ave- nue was acquired. — 36 —The Church Home was founded in 1858 by the Protestant Episcopal Church and called the Charity Foundation. The Hutchinson Memorial Chapel was built in 1895. The Deaf Mute Institution was organized by Bishop Timon in 1853. The land was given by Le Couteulx. In 1859 three nuns of St. Joseph, who had mastered the sign language, came from St. Louis to teach in the institute. The present home is in Main Street. Its system of instruction is eclectic, combining all known methods. The District Nurses’ Association was organized in 1885 to provide nurses for poor people in sickness, and to conduct a diet kitchen. The Fitch Creche is a day nursery for the young children of working women, established through the generosity of Mr. Benjamin Fitch. The Fresh Air Mission was started in 1888 by a Sunday School Class- in the Church of the Messiah to give two weeks of country air to needy children. The money was largely raised by means of cradle banks. The Home for the Friendless, for aged women, was established by the Protestant Churches. It is at 1500 Main Street. The Hospital of the Sisters of Charity was organized in 1848 by Bishop Timon with six sisters of charity in charge. In 1876 it removed to its present home on Main Street. The House of the Good Shepherd was founded by Bishop Timon for wayward girls and women in 1855, an<^ placed under the care of French nuns. The Ingleside Home was established in 1859 by Rev- erend P. G. Cook for erring women and girls. It is in Harvard Place. Providence Retreat was founded in 1861 by the Sisters of Charity for the care and treatment of the insane and the vic- tims of alcohol and drug habits. The Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum was founded by three Sisters of Charity in 1848. In 1855 it was called the St. Vincent Orphan Asylum. St. Francis’ Asylum for the aged and infirm was opened in 1862 by Sisters of the Franciscan Order. — 37 —St, John’s Protectory was founded in 1854 by Bishop Timon for the protection of destitute children. After various changes of residence it was located at Limestone Hill. Rev. Nelson H. Baker, who has done much for its development, is its superintendent. The Working Boys’ Home was instituted in 1888 by Bishop Ryan. It is under the care of the Sisters of St. Joseph and is on Niagara Square. The Erie County Penitentiary—Students of criminology are recognizing the necessity for the education and employ- ment of those serving sentences. The penitentiary building is in good condition, many improvements having been made by the inmates. The cells are of a comfortable size with cot, stool, running water, electric light, good ventilation. There is a library of one thousand volumes. Religious services are held by Catholics and Protestants. The making of mattresses, tailoring, shoemaking, laundry work, gardening, are some of the steady employments of the inmates. Those interested hope for further improvements—the manufacturing of goods for open market, the baking of bread for city institutions, the tailoring for city and county institutions, the making of pav- ing materials for the department of public works, the teach- ing of elementary subjects and the operating af a farm out- side of the city by trusty inmates. Their ideal is proper em- ployment and recreation. The Young Men’s Christian Association—It was organ- ized in 1862, the third on the American continent, for the spiritual and mental improvement of young men. In the early days they conducted two useful enterprises, a soup and coffee room, and the Friendly Inn, where they offered a good meal, clean bed, bath, reading room, place for writing letters, and a chance to get improvement. They have been in their present home since 1884. There is a German branch, a West Side Branch and several railroad- branches. All departments teach gymnastics, have reading rooms with the best books, and offer lecture courses and religious instruction. Young Women’s Christian Association—It was organized 1870, as the Women’s Christian Association for benevolent work among poor women. They first conducted a boarding home for girls. Since 1904 it has been at Mohawk and Gene- see Streets, and the field of work has grown. They come into touch with more than two thousand women daily, through — 38 —their lunch, gymnasium, sewing classes, Bible classes, and the Plunge. Women’s Educational and Industrial Union—It was or- ganized in 1884 to .increase fellowship among women and promote educational and social advancement. It has a free reference library, named in honor of Mary A. Ripley, a work exchange, an employment bureau for women, a noon rest lunch room, and it conducts classes in cooking, sewing, dress- making, millinery, dancing and French. Charity Organization Society—It was founded in 1877 for more systematic and efficient help to the unfortunate. Its aid is mostly given to families in which there are no able- bodied men. It seeks to make families self-supporting and to prevent fraud and public begging. Its charities are wisely distributed. The Salvation Army—It was established in 1884, from 1885 to 1889 withdrawn from the city, but, after reopening, corps were established at Black Rock and East Buffalo. They have a men’s industrial department on Seneca Street and a women’s rescue home on Cottage Street. The Volunteers of America—This Society was organized by Mr. and Mrs. Ballington Booth in 1891, with headquar- ters and a women’s home in Broadway, a men’s home in Michigan Street and a children’s home. Social Settlement Work—Social settlements are similar in their libraries, banks, girls’ and boys’ clubs, sewing schools and cooking classes. The following are the leading ones in Buffalo: The Neighborhood House in Goodell Street is supported by the Unitarian Church. It conducts a camp in summer on the lake shore. It was established in 1894. The Welcome Hall was established by Miss Remington in 1894. It was instituted by the ladies of the First Presby- terian Church. The Zion House is under the management of ladies con- nected with Temple Beth Zion and is the headquarters for the Federated Jewish Charities. Westminster House was opened in 1894 under the care of Westminster Church. It has a summer camp at Fort Erie. Watson House was started in 1896, and was known as Trinity House. It is the social settlement of Trinity Church. — 39 —The present house was erected as a memorial to Mrs. S. C. R. Watson, and the name was changed to Watson House. Remington Mission, at first called the Gospel Settlement, was started in 1898 by Miss Remington. In remodeling the old Revere House, in making it sanitary, instructing tenants in better ways of living and housekeeping, she has uplifted their lives and given a fine object lesson in social settlement. The Angel Guardian Mission was organized in 1898 by an association of Roman Catholic ladies, led by Mrs. Herbert P. Bissell. There is a day nursery in connection with the kindergarten, and a boarding home for working girls and women conducted by three resident Sisters of St. Francis. Buffalo Cemeteries—The first burial place was laid out by Captain William Johnson, a British officer, on his own property at Exchange and Washington streets, where he was buried. The next burial place was on Franklin Square, where the City Hall now stands. An early graveyard was at the southwest corner of Delaware and Ferry streets. In 1830 Hon. Lewis F. Allen purchased land for a burial ground at North and Delaware streets. In 1832 a potter’s field was pur- chased on the present site of the Masten Park High School. Forest Lawn was first laid out in 1849. The original site was purchased from the Granger estate. The Forest Lawn Cemetery Association was formed in 1855. The grounds are about equally divided between Forest and Lawn, and the Scajaquada Creek flows through it. The early Catholic cemeteries were Old St. Louis, Ed- ward Street, New St. Louis, North Street, Old St. Mary’s, Johnson Street, and St. Francis Xavier on Bird Avenue. Holy Cross Cemetery was opened at Limestone Hill in 1855, chiefly for Irish Catholics. The united German and French Catholic cemeteries are at Pine Hall. There are Luth- eran cemeteries at Pine Hill, on Walden Avenue, and on the Military Road near Hertel Avenue. There are Jewish cemeteries, Beth Zion at Pine Hill and Beth-El on Fillmore Avenue. The Press—It is a generally recognized fact that the newspapers of Buffalo have wielded a great influence in West- ern and Central New York. That they represent the higher journalism is shown by the general character of the articles and by their editorial treatment of each other. For the news- — 40 —papers, the best thoughts, the truest presentation of facts, the strongest logic, and the most poetic verse have been written. The first newspaper in Buffalo was the “Gazette,” started in 1811, owned and edited by the Salisbury Brothers, who brought a press from Canadaigua. Completed files of this paper may be seen at the Buffalo Public Library. In 1820 the name was changed to the “Patriot,” and in 1828 to the “Patriot and Commercial Advertiser,” with James D. War- ren as editor. Its present name is the “Commercail Adver- tiser,” and it is owned by William C. Warren. The “Buffalo Express” was first issued in 1846. In 1852 James N. Mat- thews became a partner. In 1862 the partnership was com- posed of Wheeler, Matthews and Warren. This was dis- solved in 1874, Mr. Matthews remaining proprietor, and Mr. Warren becoming owner of the “Commercial.” The Illus- trated “Sunday Express” has been issused since 1883. Mark Twain was at one time a partner in the Express. The paper now known as “The Courier” was founded in 1828, and was called the “Republican”—in 1835 absorbing the “Bulletin” and the “Star.” In 1842 the name was changed to the “Mer- cantile Courier,” which in 1846 absorbed the “National Pilot.” In 1869 “The Buffalo Courier Company” was formed. Noted editors of this paper have been Joseph Warren, Joseph O’Con- nor, and David Grey. It is now owned by William J. Con- nors, who also publishes the “Evening Enquirer.” The “Sun- day News’ was founded in 1873 by E. H. Butler, the Daily News in 1880. It absorbed “The Evening Telegraph” in 1885. The “Sunday Times” was established by Norman E. Mack in 1879, the daily “Times” in 1883. The “Buffalo Medical Jour- nal” has been published since 1845. The Religious press is represented by the “Catholic LTnion and Times,” and “The Christian Advocate.” There are various foreign newspapers published in Buf- falo. Twelve German, two Polish and one Italian. At present Buffalo has eigthy-eight periodicals, thirty-one weekly, eleven daily, six Sunday, two fortnightly, thirty-five monthly, and three quarterly. Buffalo Writers—Prose—The earliest writers were usu- ally clergymen, and religious and critical pamphlets were the first writings. In History and Biography the following names are well known: William Ketchum. Judge Samuel Wil- keson, O. H. Marshal, Samuel Welch, H. Perry Smith, Doctor Lord, Jesse Clement, Truman C. White, Major Stowitz, — 41 —Lewis F. Allen, James K. Hosmer, and C. K. Remington. Books of travel have been written by Bishop Coxe, Mrs. E. A. Forbes, Charles Linden, O. G. Steele, and James N. Mat- thews. In the domain of politics, sociology, law and educa- tion, are the writings of James O. Putnam, Albert Brisbane, Grover Cleveland and William P. Letchworth. In medical and surgical science are works receiving more than pamphlet publication. Religious literature .has many contributors— among them Bishop Coxe, Bishop Timon and Bishop Ryan. Art has not been neglected. There are two works by the late veteran artist, Lars G. Sellstedt, a book by Willis and Chapin, on the Masters and Masterpieces of Engraving, one on land- scape gardening by E. A. Long, and one on flower culture by W. Scott. Poetry—Among the poets are David Gray, Robert Cam- eron Rogers, Mary A. Ripley and Amanda T. Jones. Fine Arts—Buffalo has been slowly acquiring a reputa- tion in art. Music was the branch first cultivated. An origi- nal manuscript in the library of the Buffalo Historical So- ciety bears date of 1820 and gives the articles of organization of the “Musica Sacra”—the first musical society of Buffalo organized “to improve the style of singing.” James D. Sheppard, an Englishman, was the first profes- sional musician. He had a music store successively in the old Court House, in Main Street opposite the Eagle Tavern, in Swan Street, and at 269 Main Street. Here in 1858 Cottier and Denton became proprietors. The Germans have been active in promoting music in Buffalo, and their musical societies still in existence are of wide repute. The first was the Buffalo Liedertafel, formed in 1848 to cultivate music in general and German song in par- ticular. It has five hundred and thirty-three members. It has won many prizes in competition, and has been a musical stim- ulus to Buffalo. Their second singing society, the Saenger- bund, was formed in 1853, and the Orpheus in 1869 through the influence of Carl Adam. He directed his chorus for the last time in 1887. He was succeeded by John Lund, recom- mended to the position by William Steinway. The present leader is Julius Lange. There have been American singing societies, the Philharmonic in 1828, Handel and Hayden in 1838. which became the Harrison Glee Club, the Continental in 1862, the St. Cecilia in 1863, and the Guido Chorus. The first piano west of Cananadaigua was owned by Mrs. Walden — 42 —in 1812/ The first organ was placed in St. Paul’s Church in 1829, and the second in the Unitarian Church in 1834. Painting—Through the influence of Joseph Warren, then president of the Young Men’s Association, an exhibition of art formed part of their quarter century commemoration in 1861. Portraits of citizens were loaned, and artists at home and abroad contributed. Two hundred and eighty-five paint- ings and eight pieces of statuary formed the collection. This was expected to be the beginning of a permanent art collec- tion. The Buffalo Fine Arts Academy was incorporated in 1862. Its first rooms were in the Arcade, Main and Clinton streets. Its first president was William A. Rogers. During his term of office Captain Dorr and Lewis F. Allen donated “The French Revolution,” and Mr. Bierstadt a painting of “Caprie.” The Academy bought a piece of statuary, The Dead Pearl Diver by Paul Akers, a painting, The Captive Soul, by Oertel, and other works. Some of our noted men have been presidents of the Fine Arts Academy: Captain E. P. Dorr, C. F. Thomas, William P. Letchworth, and Doctor Thomas F. Rochester. The Albright Art Gallery the gift of Mr. J. J. Albright was finished 1902. Miss Cornelia Bentley Sage is its present director, having succeeded the late Doctor Kurtz. Among the early painters should be mentioned Thomas LeClear, William H. Beard, and Andrew Andrews. The man whose name stands first in the art history of Buffalo is Lars G. Sellstedt, author of “From Forecastle to Academy,” “Art in Buffalo” and “A Master Portrait Painter.” Buffalo from the Commercial Point of View, “Commerce is the greatest combines of all the activities of the world.” Carl Riiter. The situation of Buffalo determined that it should be a commercial city. Its position at the eastern end of lake traffic and at the western end of the Erie Canal, give it routes of — 43 —Walk in the Water.trade which have been increased in number and value by its many railroad lines. Its proximity to the coal fields of Penn- sylvania and to the falls of the Niagara, give it power for manufacturing and transporting the articles of trade. Besides, it is a natural port of exchange between Canada and the Uni- ted States as well as between the eastern and western parts of our own country. The earliest commercial activity of the settlers at Buf- falo Creek consisted in exchanging rum, blankets, trinkets and ammunition for the furs brought by the Indians, and in supplying the few settlers with those things which were necessary. Mention is made as early as 1791 of a store kept by one Cornelius Winne. This was located in Washington Street near Canal Bridge. In 1805 Mr. Vincent Grant, a merchant, came and kept what was called the Contractors’ store. The first warehouse was an old barn which was used for storing furs. The early trade made it necessary to provide inns for the accommodation of traders and merchants, and the earliest tav- ern was built in 1795. When the surveyors of the Holland Land Company arrived, the little settlement grew large enough to support a few stores and more taverns were opened, chiefly in lower Main and Exchange streets. The first boat to sail on Lake Erie was La Salle’s Griffin, built in 1679 place which bears the great leader’s name. It was launched the same year and taken through the rapids above Black Rock by a dozen sailors at the end of a tow line; but once beyond the rapid water it was free to lead the way to a commerce which has been responsible for most of Buffalo’s prosperity. Buffalo Creek was made a port of entry in 1805, Black Rock in 1811. The lake commerce was carried on, at first, chiefly from the latter port where the schooner Contractor had been built as early as. 1802-1803 by a company holding the govern- ment contract for supplying certain military posts with neces- sary stores. In 1806 sloops, schooners and open boats were carrying up the lake, salt, drygoods, furniture, clothing, and bringing back fish and furs. Charles Townsend and George Coit came here in 1811, bringing from Albany about twenty tons of merchandise at a cost of fifty dollars a ton. At that time a stage ran twice a week from Albany to Buffalo. — 45 —Before the War of 1812, Buffalo contained four taverns and eight stores and had a considerable commerce which was practically broken up during the war since the lakes were not free from.the ships of the enemy. In 1817 the first ship bringing wheat from the West came into port, beginning the stupendous wheat business of the present time. A year later the Townsend and Coit firm erected large warehouses at the foot of Commercial Street. This was also the first firm to send a cargo from Buffalo westward by a regular bill of lading. In this same year, 1818, the first steam- ship of the upper lakes was built by the Union Dry Dock Co. at Black Rock and was named Walk-in-the-Water. After re- repated trials it was found that her engines could not compete with the current of the Niagara and the boat was towed by ox teams up the river into the lake. Once in the waters of the lake the steamer was a success. On her second trip she car- ried 150 passengers. She was a “single decker.” During a storm in 1821 the Walk-in-the-Water was wrecked. The own- ers immediately commenced the building of another steamer, the Superior, which was launched in 1822. The Pioneer was the first high-pressure steamer on the Lakes and made her first trip in 1825. The first propeller en- tered Buffalo harbor in 1842. Later, the Anchor Line built a ship with an iron propeller and found it such a success that eleven others of the same kind were built by the same com- pany. On the completion of the Erie Canal the increased facili- ties for travel and transportation caused larger, better steam- ers of various kinds to be built. The year 1850 is said to have been “The high tide of steamboat prosperity on the lakes.” The steamers were well filled both with passengers and freight, and profits for the companies were large. The build- ing of the trunk line railroads from East to West took away much of the passenger as well as some of the freight trade from the lakes; but the steamers on the Great Lakes today, rival some ocean-going vessels in size, speed, elegance and cargoes. As Buffalo faces the open lake it possesses no natural harbor. The only safe place, originally, where vessels could lie or receive and discharge cargoes was the area within the mouth of Buffalo Creek, a place very dangerous to vessels because of the sand bars across the entrance. Judge Samuel Wilkeson was the most energetic agent in making the first — 46 —harbor for the town and thereby securing the termination of the Erie Canal for Buffalo. In 1845 Congress authorized a committee of engineers to meet here in the interest of an improved harbor and it was at first a question whether the harbor at Black Rock or that of the Port of Buffalo should be improved. The committee of engineers, however, reported in favor of Buffalo and Con- gress appropriated five million dollars for our harbor’s im- provement. In 1902 Congress made a second appropriation of the same amount for the same cause. The harbor is made up of two parts. The inner harbor is formed by Buffalo Creek and the artificial channel called the City Ship Canal. The outer harbor is made of a chain of breakwalls extending southeast along the lake from the foot of Ferry Street for a distance of five miles to Stony Point. This arrangement gives Buffalo a harbor of over seven hun- dred acres—the largest artificial harbor in the world. For the convenience of shippers the harbor has numerous elevators and one of the largest coal trestles in the world. Most of the coal that goes up the lakes passes through Buffalo, making the city a great coaling station. Immense shipments of iron ore and of grain are also transferred here from West- ern ports to Eastern markets. The tonnage of the city of Buffalo is greater than that of Liverpool. The great tonnage of our port is largely due to the Erie Canal. As early as 1768, when New York was sill a colony under the British government, its provincial legislature dis- cussed the subject of uniting the Hudson River with the Great Lakes by an artificial waterway; but it was not until 1817, though still in advance of the railroads, that ground was broken for that waterway. The canal was completed by New York State, largely through the influence of DeWitt Clinton, in 1825, at a total cost of $7,603,000. By facilitating travel and transportation through what was practically a wilderness, it was instrumental in settling not only central New York, but also regions farther west in Michigan, Indiana and Illi- nois. Freight rates dropped, land values in the'vicinity of the canal rose, and Buffalo, being the transfer point between lake and ocean trade became one of the great commercial centers of the world. The canal has been widened and deepened at an expense greater than the original cost, and is, at the present time, in — 47 —process of being remodeled into a barge canal for which work the State legislature appropriated $101,000,000 in 1903. It is expected that this improvement will greatly increase the commerce of the city. On railroads as well as on lakes and canal much of the commercial activity of Buffalo depends; but the town did not see its first railroad until 1834 and then its cars were drawn by horses between Black Rock and Buffalo. The first steam railroad of the vicinity was built in 1836, connecting Buffalo with Niagara Falls. The trains ran at the rate of 15 to 20 miles an hour, a speed that was considered quite wonderful in those days. In 1855 the line was acquired by the New York Central and was extended to Lewiston. In 1843 Buffalo was connected with Attica thus gaining a com- plete route to Albany over a chain of roads from Attica. Part of this line was later consolidated into a portion of the New York Central line. The panic of 1857 hindered railroad building and the Civil War completely stopped it for a time. Then, little by little, a network of roads connected Buffalo with the rest of the country and the many trunk lines making their terminus here have caused Buffalo to be one of the great railroad centers of the United States. The yard facilities are enormous and it is hoped that the station accommodations will not long con- tinue to be so deplorably inadequate as they are at present. The great harbor, the situation on the lakes, the Erie Canal, the numerous trunk lines—all have combined to make our city one of the great commercial centers of the world. INDUSTRIAL HISTORY. At the time of the thirteenth census, Buffalo had 1753 manufacturing plants, capitalized at $192,041,000, paying a wage of $38,074,000, and annually producing to the value of $288,804,000, an increase of 48%% in five years. Of 339 in- dustries recognized by the United States census, Buffalo has 200, or 60%. The iron and steel of Buffalo represents 13^% of that industry in the State. It is the second largest in- — 48 —A9/0 EOEOLAE/OA/, EACH SQUARE- 5° 000 /900 /390 /360\ /9/0 HEN EHRLOTEP //V/NC>(JSEH/EE, EACH SOUAHE - /O, OOO /SOO /&90 /S80 NONET /N\AEU