Production Note Cornell University Library produced this volume to replace the irreparably deteriorated original. It was scanned using Xerox software and equipment at 600 dots per inch resolution and compressed prior to storage using CCITT Group 4 compression. The digital data were used to create Cornell's replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1984. The production of this volume was supported in part by the New York State Program for the Conservation and Preservation of Library Research Materials and the Xerox Corporation. Digital file copyright by Cornell University Library 1993.SOCIAL LIFE IN EARLIER BUFFALO BY MARTHA FITCH POOLEINTRODUCTION The following chapters were written, but a few months before she passed from earth in 1903, by Mrs. Martha Fitch Poole. Buffalo had been her home since 1835. Throughout her long residence here, she was active in the social, philanthropic and religious life of the city. No one was better qualified than she to record these phases of the community as she knew it in her girlhood and young married life; for as the following pages testify, she ever retained not merely a clear memory, but the young heart that makes one’s outlook upon life cheery and cheering, to the end. Happy those who at the end of many years can write, as was her custom, “Yours with pleasant memories.” Martha Fitch was born at Annsville, Oneida Co., N. Y., Feb. 4, 1818. Her parents, Benjamin Fitch and Phoebe Brown, moved to Le Roy five years later. She was descended from a long line of dis- tinguished ancestors. Among those who came to this country be- tween 1620 and 1640 were Elder William Brewster of Mayflower fame, Rev. James Fitch of Norwich, Conn., and Rev. Henry Whit- field of Guilford, Conn. At the age of thirteen Martha Fitch was sent to Niagara-on-the- Lake, where she attended school and studied music and French, making her home with an aunt and uncle, Mr. and Mrs. Rodman Starkweather, also with an older sister, Mrs. Long, at “The Castle,” Fort Niagara, Lieut. E. R. Long, U. S. A., being stationed at this post. Martha was a noted beauty, gifted with wit and brilliant con- versational powers, which with a cultured mind made her rarely at- tractive to all who knew her. Soon after coming to Buffalo in the spring of 1835 she met Rushmore Poole, one of the best known young business men of that time. They were married in Le Roy by the Rev. Mr. Metcalf, April 13, 1837, departing on their wedding jour- ney to New York by stage coach. Three children were born to them: Anna, Edwin Long and Arthur Augustus. The first only, survives the parents. Mrs. Poole was identified with Trinity church from its early or- ganization and was a communicant according to the Episcopal faith. Thrift, economy and industry entered into every department of her life, and the fact that she made every garment she ever wore, even to442 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. her dresses, with her own hands (never having owned a sewing machine) proves how well equipped she was for the practical duties of life. With the firm conviction that there was no death, she passed away June io, 1903, aged 85 years, at the residence of her son-in-law, Dr. Joseph T. Cook. Rushmore Poole was born at Herricks, L. I., Sept. 7, 1810. His parents were Samuel Poole and Sarah Cheesman. He came to Buf- falo in 1825, at the age of fifteen, under the care of Mr. McIntosh of Albany, N. Y., the first husband of the second Mrs. Millard Fillmore. An uncle, Joseph Cheesman of New York, and a Mr. Weeks had established the first crockery store in these western wilds under the firm name of Weeks & Cheesman, and Rushmore Poole was sent out here to learn the business. He was taken into the firm as partner in 1833 and at the expira- tion of the partnership in 1836 he bought out the New York men and carried on the business in his own name. The panic of the early ’40’s brought disaster to many Buffalo firms and with many others Mr. Poole failed. Seth C. Hawley obtained the position of canal in- spector for him under Linus Harris, who was superintendent of the Erie canal for Western New York. This position he held for a few years until an eastern capitalist started a crockery store under the firm name of E. C. Brown & Co., when Mr. Poole became the pur- chasing manager of this establishment. It was bought out by Homer & Co. of Boston, but continued the employ of Mr. Poole. About 1865 he engaged in business on Seneca Street with his son Arthur, Edwin Long having died several years earlier. In a few years the firm became R. Poole & Son. After the tragic death of Arthur Poole, who was killed while going to a fire, at the age of twenty-eight, Mr. Poole, who never recovered from the effects of this affliction, sold out to a nephew from Long Island, and retired from business. Rushmore Poole was one of the founders of Trinity Episcopal church. He was one of the earliest members of the Young Men’s Association, a member of the fire department and an organizer and performer in one of the early orchestras in Buffalo. He was an ac- complished musician and his penmanship was like copper-plate en- graving, and elicited great admiration throughout business circles. He was a patron of the best in music, the drama and literature. He possessed a nature of extreme refinement and modesty, while in all matters his integrity was that of the Christian gentleman. Mr. Poole died suddenly of apoplexy at his home, No. 98 Seventh Street, Oct. 14, 1885, aged 75 years.MARTHA FITCH POOLE. RUSHMORE POOLE.PLEASANT MEMORIES OF THE SOCIAL LIFE OF BUFFALO IN THE ’30’S AND ’40’S BY MARTHA FITCH POOLE I. When Old Buffalo was Young. I came to Buffalo from Niagara-on-the-Lake to reside, in the spring of 1835, with my aunt and uncle, Mr. and Mrs. Rodman Starkweather. Indians walked the streets in blankets and moccasins, cows were grazing at the roadsides, and pigs roamed at their own sweet will, only kept out of beautiful gardens by stout fences, usually of the picket variety. Yet Buffalo was a very beautiful city, notwithstanding. There was little or nothing to pull down and buildings of the better sort were rapidly filling up the open spaces. The elegance with which the city was laid out, though the area was limited at that time, has ever been admired. It was noted for the magnif- icent trees that bordered every street and lane, while the views of river and lake, uninterrupted for miles by the smoke of railroads or business structures, were superb. Birds sang from morning till night in the most populous sections of the city, and such gardens of flowers and nur- series of fruit trees in this locality, as could then be seen, are things of the past. Buffalo was a bustling business place eight months of the year, say from April to December. The other four were 443444 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. given up quite generally to social enjoyment. The winter of 1836-1837 was the coldest and the longest I have ever experienced. Navigation did not open until the end of May, and the ice did not entirely disappear from the lake until June 10th. We were literally ice-bound that winter, and as r there was no means of transportation except by stage coach or sleighing, everybody stayed at home, contributing to the general pleasure. Buffalo was, at this time, preeminently a social center. The guests were often not a few from Batavia, Le Roy, Lewiston, Niagara-on-the-Lake and Niagara Falls. It is doubtful if a finer or more genial set of people ever assembled than did those who came to Buffalo in these early days. A code of good manners and a chivalry among men kept things well within bounds, even though tfye “flowing bowl” often overran the limits of strict sobriety. There may not have been more drinking then than now in proportion to the population, but it was the universal custom to serve wines on all festive and even other occasions. Drinking was done in the open and drunkenness at a party was considered an insult to the host and hostess. At the time of which I write, many were the fine man- sions already erected, and more were in course of building. In these days of palatial homes with their manifold conveni- ences, it is quite interesting to contemplate how really com- modious and fine were the houses away back in the ’3o’s. The rooms were spacious, the ceilings very high, the win- dows and folding-door openings were wide, so that for en- tertaining these residences were unsurpassed. The archi- tecture was elegant, being of the style generally in vogue at that time in New York. I was much impressed when I first came to Buffalo with the large number of stately blocks of residences. These gave a decidedly citified air to the place, quite beyond its size and population. Some of these once fashionable homes may still be seen and they stand as examples of many other blocks long since razed to the ground. The Darrow Block1 on Washington 1. Still standing, though so mueh changed that there is little hint of its former elegance.BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 445 Street, east side, above Eagle Street, was an elegant row of houses built to stand firmly in its aristocratic dignity, long after its projector passed away. Another fine group of houses, similar in construction to the Darrow Block, is still standing on Swan Street. Still another is on Niagara Street, just off of Main Street. One who entered them so often in their palmy days, can but exclaim: “How are the mighty fallen.,, Numerous, also, were the mansions which stood more or less isolated, surrounded by the beautiful gardens heretofore alluded to. The circle that had the entree of these homes, in other words, what is termed society, was not so contracted in 1836 as one might imagine. It was not uncommon to write 300 or 400 invitations, even in those days, to a party. It also required considerable time for my lady to com- plete her round of calls two or three times a year, even though she had a carriage, which in those days she must have always, else how get to Cold Spring, Black Rock and even to the Hydraulics, where many fashionable people lived ? The Starkweathers, with whom I resided until my mar- riage in 1837, lived at the northeast corner of Washington and Swan streets, in the house that still stands there very much as it was, so far as its construction is concerned. Many were the card parties (whist was then the rage as now), dinner and supper parties held in this house. If its walls could speak they would indeed give forth plaintive utterance at the changed environment both within and without, that its well-planned endurance has had to encounter. Many times the officers and their ladies from Fort Niagara graced these festive occasions, as they did other notable functions, the former always appearing in full-dress uniform. They and their wives added much to the gaiety and eclat of Buffalo society, as so many of their successors have done down to the present time. The Eagle-street Theatre, as it was called, was new at this time, and it was really a great attraction to the city. The gentleman I married came here a lad in 1825, the year the Erie canal was opened for business. In the course of time446 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. he joined the firemen’s organization, and was for years active in getting up the firemen’s balls, given annually at this theatre. These were well attended by the fashionable and better class of citizens, being as popular as are our charity balls of today. Mr. Poole owned and furnished a private box at this time in the Eagle-street Theatre, which was draped with curtains of blue damask. The furniture con- sisted of a sofa and two chairs upholstered with the same material. Later this box was given up, the chairs being brought to our home. They are much cherished as relics of a bygone day. I am wondering if there is another article in existence from this old house, so often the scene of dramatic and social triumphs, in a few years to be a smouldering heap of ruins, never to rise. Another thing that impressed me deeply when I first came to Buffalo was the bustling activity of Main Street, especially the lower part of it. It was quite solidly built up from Court Street down to the dock with some very sub- stantial buildings. Many of them are still in existence, notably a part of the Kremlin, several blocks of stores between Seneca Street and the dock, and the buildings known as the Granite Block, owned at the time of which I write by my uncles Starkweather and Brown. Mr. Poole established the first crockery store in Buffalo. It was located in the modernized building now occupied by T. & E. Dick- inson. It was famous far and near for an enormous blue and white earthenware pitcher which would easily hold four men who could not be discovered unless one climbed up to look in. This pitcher, which for years stood on the sidewalk in front of the store, was certainly typical of the business Mr. Poole was engaged in; while at the rear, inside the store, was that which more truly represented the taste of the man. It was a piano. It was said at the time that Mr. Poole would never be a rich man on account of his great love for and participation in music. I have never had reason to doubt the truth of these assertions. He was a thorough musician, and as a pianist was far above the average performer of the present day.BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 447 Returning to the lively appearance of Main Street: cob- blestone pavement, multitudes of carts, drays, wagons, car- riages and stage coaches coming and going continually to and from the boat landings, made this part of Buffalo as busy and noisy a scene as it has since become funereal and silent. I cannot refrain from mentioning the beauty of the view from off the dock. What is known as the Island was a mass of exquisite green with quantities of sweet-smelling shrubs, including wild roses, juniper, sassafras and flowering-cur- rant bushes. Trees and green grass stretched far away to your right, as you stood looking out upon the clear blue of the lake in a cloudless summer day. No smoke thickened the air, no ugly elevators marred the marine view or the adja- cent landscape. The song of hundreds of birds and the balmy breezes made a visit to the dock a pleasant pastime of a sultry morning. Tooting whistles and shrieking fog-horns had not come into use and one could look out upon Lake Erie’s broad expanse and scarcely count the white-winged vessels as they quietly glided in and out, so numerous were they on the face of the water in these early days. On the evenings when the steamboat went “up the lake” it was quite the fashionable thing to go down to the dock to “see her off.” A band always played from the forward upper deck and the occasion was one of festive excitement and the liveliest interest. I can never forget the flutter of joy I experienced, when at the opening of navigation this same year of 1835, I was a passenger on one of these steam- boats bound for Sault Ste. Marie, to make a visit of several months to my oldest sister, whose husband, Lieut. Burnett, U. S. A., was stationed at Fort Brady. It seemed to me when I embarked for this voyage as if the business of the whole world centered at the dock in Buffalo. It must be remembered that Buffalo in the ?3o’s had the entire trade from the adjacent towns, many of which were much more alive than they are now. Besides this all boats of whatever kind, including canal boats, were equipped and supplied by Buffalo firms.448 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. Strange to say, in later years, in many respects we be- came more provincial in matters pertaining to municipal affairs, business methods and social customs. Have we entirely worked out of it in the decades that have followed ? Has commercialism blinded us to some of the finer cour- tesies of life? Still a third phase of life in this city at that time made things appear very gay. It was the apparently countless hotels, taverns, inns and boarding-houses. They were in every block, and turn where you would, the lumbering rattle of the stage coaches accompanied by the tooting of horns, was apt to greet the passer-by at almost any hour of the day. These hotels, taverns, etc., were the club houses of that day. The Mansion House, Eagle Tavern and American Hotel were fine hostelries, with an elegance and luxury of appoint- ments and furniture, that a find in later years in the attic of the first named, by a more recent proprietor, will attest. On the corner of Washington and Exchange streets was a large and finely-built brick house of the “mansion” class, erected for his own use by Jacob Barker. As he wished to move “up town” into a house he built on the site where President Fillmore’s residence1 now stands, he rented the one first named. It became a fashionable and most popular boarding-house, presided over by Mrs. Sheldon, the mother of the late Judge Sheldon. In this house I spent the first year of my married life. It may be of interest to some to know who were the boarders there in 1837. They were John Lattimer, who married a daughter of Hezekiah Webster; Mr. Birch, who married a daughter of Erastus Corning of Albany; James Cowing, Ambrose Sterling, R. J. Sherman, John Bull, William Laverack, and George Brown, who married a Miss Buell of Pittsfield, Mass., she having rejected Gzowski of Canadian fame. At this writing I am the only survivor of this once genial and most interesting company. 1. Niagara Square, north side, now known as Castle Inn,BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 449 II. A Gay Sleighride. Gay, brilliant little Buffalo, considered at this time by our New York friends a very provincial city ’way out west, had advantages for true social enjoyment unsurpassed by any other city in the world. To be sure, we were hemmed in several months in the year by snow-decked forests and an ice-clogged lake. But what of that? The spirit of hospitality and fun made good cheer the order of the times, and no one felt the need of any more change of scene than lay at our very doors. My mind goes back to a very gay sleighride, which for the number that participated and the hilarity of the company was with- out exception the most enjoyable party of the kind I ever attended. On similar occasions we often went out to Scott’s, a tavern, quite the fashion in old times, on the Williamsville road. But the drive to which I refer was to Niagara Falls, and the Cataract Hotel was the place where we put up for the night. The day before, a quantity of oysters (they came in tiny kegs in those days)? several cases of cham- pagne and other drinkables and eatables such as pioneers delight in after a twenty-two mile ride, were sent down. It was between Christmas and New Year’s, on a crisp, clear cold day, with plenty of glistening white snow, that the start was made. The company invited were about one hundred ladies and gentlemen, both married and single. Some thirty sleighs, from the slender cutter to the pretentious one that was sup- posed to take the lead, were called into requisition. I shall never forget this last-mentioned gorgeous turnout that drove up to our door. As I think of it now, it seems like some chariot of fire on runners, or like a fairy equipage such as Santa Claus would like. To come down to a prac- tical idea of it, I can compare it to nothing less than a very ornate circus vehicle of the most bewildering style and color. It was like this: Graceful and long, the brightest scarlet imaginable, culminating in a yellow dashboard with golden swans on either side, their long curving necks and slender heads standing out conspicuously in front.450 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. I wonder if our good citizen, C. W. Miller, ever heard of this wonderful sleigh? It came from his father’s estab- lishment, I am quite sure, although Efner’s was another livery much patronized at that time. The cushions of this splendid sleigh were of red velvet. On the occasion I allude to, it was drawn by six white horses with the gayest of harness and trappings, and such rever- berating, tintinnabulating bells I have never ridden behind since. Foot stoves and plenty of fur robes gave /'assurance of comfort to the twenty young married people who so mer- rily went forth for a winter’s lark, while, as might beA:on- jectured, many of the single couples preferred the cutters. We left Buffalo at 2 p. m., arriving at the Cataract a little before dusk. Apparently every Indian and his squaw for miles around had heard that we were "coming to town,” for scores of them met us just outside the village, and more were at the hotel offering for sale beadwork, maple sugar in birch boxes, and skins of animals. The open fireplace filled with crackling logs of wood made us feel at home, and after enjoying for a while the beneficent glow and warmth, none was loth to partake of the fine supper soon announced, for we had not only furnished the supplies, but we had sent forward a colored cook to pre- pare the same. The gentlemen of those days %did nothing by halves. And such oysters! Does any one think he gets such flavored bivalves now ? I quote from my old friend Samuel M. Welch’s book, "Recollections of Buffalo,” in which he says: “Alas! Their name is all that is left to us; nor do the multitude who consume the coarse, loose, soft, ill-bred, no-flavored, tasteless oysters of the present, mourn their degeneracy, because they know not the ancestral oyster which the generation of the thirties reveled in with convivial zest.” Supper over, every one repaired to the ballroom, the same that is in use today, all more recent additions in the way of dancing halls in this hotel having been done away with during the last decade. We took the musicians fromBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 451 Buffalo. A colored man by the name of Hicks was the leader, and he furnished very good music. He was also a dancing master by profession and was well patronized by the fashionable people of Buffalo. He was a unique figure, pursuing either or both vocations at the same time. When teaching his pupils to dance he would glide over the mirror- like floor of the American Hotel in the most graceful and agile manner, playing his violin all the time, calling off the figures or directing their movements as the case might be. He was as black as the ace of spades, but respected and liked by every one. When he played with others as on this and similar occa- sions, there was a dash and swing about his music that suggested the most rollicking pirouettes and pigeon-wings, which such merrymaking men as Robert Hollister, A. A. Evstaphieve, Oliver G. Steele, Seth C. Hawley, Col. James McKay and others were not slow to avail themselves of. The figures were called off this night by a grotesque negro, who created no end of fun, while his stentorian tones were interspersed by the robust laughter of the men and the more musical titter of the girls, like “Charlotte a-cornuT down de lane.” Considerable champagne disappeared that night, but no one was reajly the worse for it, and this particular sleighride has always been a bright spot in my memory, from which the sounds of the jingling bells and the hilarious merriment of the intimate friends of that early day have never been effaced. Besides those mentioned above and their wives, there were present Mr. and Mrs. John L. Talcott, Mr. and Mrs. George R. Babcock, Mr. and Mrs. Sam. Purdy, Mr. and Mrs. H. K. Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Rodman Starkweather, Mr. and Mrs. William Laverack, Dr. and Mrs. Charles Winne, Elizabeth Staats, who married Horatio Seymour, the Misses Townsend, the Wilson girls, Heman B. Potter, Charles Gold, William Lovering, Charles Peck, Charles Pickering, John Wellington Buckland, a charming gallant, and Russell Searle Brown, a banker and financier of note. This goodly company and others with us on this occasion452 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. helped lay the foundations of this now great city and may be said to have represented most of the professional and com- mercial interests of Buffalo. As one realizes what they did and what they stood for as citizens and gentlemen, one is easily convinced, “there were giants in those days.” The following morning about 9 o’clock the sleighs were again loaded with their human freight and a drive around Goat Island was enjoyed. Nothing could exceed the beauty of this then utterly wild spot in its winter dress of crystals and snow. Grunting Indians followed us all the way, doubt- less thinking us as queer as we thought them. The scene was certainly unique. We arrived home with but a few hours to spare before it was time to attend a concert given that night by the cele- brated English singer and composer, Henry Russell. He sang “Some Love to Roam,” “Woodman, Spare that Tree,” “Wind of the Winter Night,” and “John Nott,” com- mencing, “Being of the livery he was a stable man”; also another of his humorous songs which ran in this way: “There was a little maid And she wore a little bonnet, She had a little finger With a little ring upon it.” This concert was given in the ballroom of the American Hotel, and all Buffalo was there. Did we enjoy ourselves when Buffalo was young? III. In Old Mansions. Inconveniences that would be looked upon as insur- mountable by the ambitious housekeeper of the present day, were not taken note of at the time of which I write when the entertaining of one’s friends was contemplated. To be sure we had to send a block away to the pump, for water to drink and cook with. Wood, the only fuel then in use, was piled up in an outbuilding often located severalBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 453 rods from the house. There was no gas with which to illu- minate my lady’s drawing-room, no furnaces to bring the temperature of our homes up to summer heat when the ther- mometer registered zero. Kitchens were almost universally in the basement. We had no laundries fitted with stationary tubs, steam-heated drying-rooms, and wringers, etc.; no refrigerators to store food in that it might keep fresh for several days. Yet we lived in great comfort, often elegantly; many of the houses were of pretentious style. A few are still standing, and they will illustrate the many others equally fine that have given place to business blocks. The one so well known as “the Cottage” was very much handsomer in all respects in the ^o’s. The gallery was an elegant feature in the arrangement and it did not originally have the cheapened effect that it had after several alterations had taken place. Its owner, Dr. Ebenezer Johnson, mayor of Buffalo, was most lavish in his hospitality at this time. Garden parties were given frequently during the summer months, and citi- zens living here now can scarcely imagine the beauty of this place with its acres of well-cultivated lawns studded with luxurious flower beds, majestic elms without number, and in the rear, away back by Prospect Avenue, were fruit orchards, vegetable gardens and outbuildings. These grounds, as I remember them, extended from Chippewa to Tracy Street. In February, 1836, a very elegant ball was given in the Cottage. It was notable for having engraved invitations, a fine band of music and a table that fairly groaned with good things to eat. Dancing was kept up until long after midnight, and people came in considerable num- bers from adjacent towns to enjoy the hospitality of the first mayor of Buffalo. We gossiped in those days very much as we do now. I quote from a note written to me by an intimate friend the day after the ball. The reader will recognize the fact that slang was also known in the most elegant circles; happily it was not common: “What do you think of the way Buckland flirted with Miss S—? I do not think it was very slow. Did454 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. you know they went out sleighriding today? Cutter-riding at that. He is one singular man.” A few years later this fine property was divided, and Philander Hodge built the residence on the northwest corner of Delaware Avenue and Chippewa Street. Many have been the elegant social functions in the way of balls, suppers and receptions given not only by the Hodges, but by the Patchins and Gansons, who occupied it in later years. It was a universal custom in those good old times to take something home from the supper table to the children. A frosted bit of cake, or two or three mottoes were abstracted and put into papa's dresscoat pocket without the slightest hesitation. Indeed, if nothing was taken to the little ones at home, the hostess felt quite hurt at your suggested infer- ence that she was neither generous nor rich enough. Imagine the fun created when, at one of the largest parties given, Mrs. Hodge, while descending the stairs on her way to her carriage, dropped a well-filled handkerchief, out of which rolled two or three quail, biscuit and other things. I pre- sume papa in this case found it inconvenient to load his pockets to the required extent, so Mrs. Hodge concluded to be the bearer of these dainties. She was dubbed long after- wards as “Mrs. Quail Hodge." A. A. Evstaphieve built the tall house opposite on the northeast corner. It was built in an awkward style of archi- tecture with its winding steps and high stoop, but the inte- rior was very commodious and stately, and lent itself to many interesting gatherings. One of these was a beautiful ball, Mr. and Mrs. Evstaphieve having been married but a short time. It was just before a financial panie, but in those days men were not easily dismayed, and although they knew not what misfor- tunes would soon overtake many who were present that night, they knew that “the signs of the times" boded no good. Mr. Evstaphieve was like many of the rest, too young to borrow trouble, and as it was his temperament to turn even the serious side of life into a huge joke, he went among his friends this night as champagne flowed freely, saying, “Eat, drink and be merry, for tomorrow ye die." For theBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 455 nonce his guests accepted this rather pagan but well-meant advice and forgot the “handwriting on the wall.” The crash, however, soon came and the genial host was one of the many who went down with it. During these early days, Mr. Evstaphieve’s father, the Russian consul and a great friend of the then reigning Czar, visited Buffalo. He was an interesting man and given to writing poetry when the mood seized him. He purchased a summer home near Newport, R. I., and these are the lines he wrote for my album: “Tiverton! Seat of balmy air and health, Open alike to poverty and wealth, Where Cholera ne’er shows its Gorgon head And doctors find it hard to earn their daily bread, I love thee! And my thanks shall never cease For thy blest yearly gift of life’s new lease.” On Niagara Square the Wilkeson homestead, the Stephen G. Austin mansion, southeast corner of Delaware and Niagara Square, and the Sizer residence, northwest corner of Delaware and the Square, were frequently the scene of most brilliant parties, and as they still remain intact, they illustrate the fact that Buffalo in the ’3o’s and early ’qo’s was a city of wealth and unusual hospitality. In addition to these there was the Burt house, now so merged into the Central High School building that the passer-by would never imagine how elegant a home it was. Here also, the “Four Hundred” were frequently bidden to dance and make merry. Other beautiful and equally genial homes were those of George R. Babcock, southwest corner of Delaware and the Square, S. G. Haven, on Genesee Street, east of Delaware Avenue, and James Hollister, northeast corner of Delaware and the Square. At these residences the culture of Buffalo society often congregated. Many of these fine homes have disappeared, as have the revered hosts and hostesses who gave to this city for all time the best examples of good citi- zenship, culture and refinement and never-to-be-excelled hospitality. Niagara Square at the present day gives no evidence of456 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. its beauties sixty years ago, except the fine arrangement of the streets converging there. Most of the trees have disap- peared and the once almost unobstructed view of the lake can no longer be enjoyed. That transition state is now upon it, which is always somewhat pitiful, for it suggests decay, change and possibly death. The home of Mrs. Horatio Seymour still standing on Niagara Street, right side, just above Franklin, was often the scene of gay parties, suppers and sewing societies. How we did sew for the churches in those days! Pearl Street from Eagle to Seneca was a fashionable residence street and being adjacent to “the Churches,” as St. Paul’s and the First Church were ordinarily spoken of, it was a most popular location. Pearl Street was very gay, notwithstanding it was “under the eaves of the sanctuaries.” Mr. and Mrs. John L. Talcott lived here just behind St. Paul’s church. They entertained lavishly, giving champagne suppers, musicales and card parties frequently. Here one met Col. and Mrs. Henry K. Viele, Mr. and Mrs. E. S. Warren, the Purdys, Sally Ann Thompson, who married a brilliant lawyer, H. K. Smith, the Peacocks, the Hatches, the Rochesters and hosts of others who were among the royal entertainers of Buffalo in these early days. John L. Talcott, with his magnificent figure and brilliant mind, conversing with another elegant-looking man, Col. Viele, stands out as distinctly in my memory on one of these occasions as does the beautiful singing of Mrs. Talcott and the remarkably fresh beauty and sweetness of Mrs. Viele, who was one of my lifelong and most beloved friends. Mrs. Talcott was a Frenchy little woman, graceful, dip- lomatic, witty, accomplished and red-haired. She had very fascinating but frivolous ways and both she and her gifted husband contributed much to the enjoyment of their numerous friends, until domestic infelicity crept into their otherwise delightful home. Mrs. Charles Lord, a very beau- tiful woman and a remarkable soprano singer, was present at one of the Talcott musicales, as was also Miss Fanny Wilson, a sister of Mrs. Evstaphieve. Who that heard Miss Wilson sing negro songs, including “Old Dan Tucker,” willBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 457 ever forget it ? Mrs. Lord went to St. Louis soon after, and sang for years in a cathedral of the Roman Catholic Church. Gn Pearl Street near Seneca, Seth Grosvenor resided. He was one of the large-hearted, generous, genial men of his day, who gave champagne suppers to his gentlemen friends. On one occasion, when every one was enjoying the merri- ment of stories, jests and plenty of good cheer, it was dis- covered that the doors were locked, as Mr. Grosvenor did not wish his guests to depart until the wee hours. Mr. Poole not being in good health at this time, slyly watched his opportunity and climbed out of the window, much to the surprise and amusement of his associates. Capt. and Mrs. Stephen Champlin lived on Seneca Street, as did many of Buffalo’s best citizens, and their house was noted for its suppers and card parties. Whist was a hobby of the captain’s. He had a somewhat irascible temper, espe- cially when defeat in whist stared him in the face. It was not an uncommon thing for him to storm at his partner under such circumstances, so that very few ladies were willing to play with him. As Gen. Winfield Scott had taught me to play the game, and I had often played with other army officers, I seemed to be inspired with bravery and was daring enough to play with him. It was like “bearding the lion in his den,” for he always came near swearing when my play did not suit him, but he suppressed it and contented himself with something like a growl, which always made me laugh. This relieved the situation and we got on very well. A lovely daughter, Sophia, married Capt. Simpson of the United States army and they graced Buffalo society for a number of years. IV. Gay Buffalo Society in the ’30’s. It must be difficult for younger generations to realize that prominent families resided on Washington Street as far down as Exchange Street. Among these, noted for their hospitality, were Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hollister and Mr. and Mrs. William Laverack. Their houses were stylish458 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. brick three-story buildings, located where the checkered store now stands, below Seneca Street, right hand side. Mr. Hollister built a palatial home a little later, up Main Street above Chippewa, now replaced by a handsome business structure. The entertainments in this beautiful home were brilliant and numerous. I have often wished that the ele- gant mahogany dining table now in the possession of a kins- woman could talk. How much it could relate of romances, flirtations and possibly broken vows, for this charming home was the rendezvous of lovers of all kinds, who were prone to make Mr. and Mrs. Hollister the bearers of their confidences. One of the most genial couples when Buffalo was young was Mr. and Mrs. O. G. Steele. They lived on Clinton Street in a simple frame house where many a Virginia reel and sprightly cotillion were enjoyed by their many friends. Here I met Mr. and Mrs. Isaac Sherman, the parents of Mrs. Bradley Martin, who resided in Buffalo a short time. Among the guests one always met, Col. and Mrs. James McKay, the parents of Steele Mackaye of dramatic fame. Mrs. McKay was a sister of Mr. Steele. Col. McKay, a dashing, handsome man, spent money lavishly upon his friends. He built “The Castle” at Fort Porter and enter- tained frequently there until the United States Government established an army post on this spot. One of the most charming homes in the ’3o’s was that of Mr. and Mrs. Bela D. Coe, located on Main Street, with elegant grounds extending to Eagle and through to Wash- ington. Garden parties were given here and several fine balls took place in their stately colonial home. In the early ’4o’s they moved into the spacious mansion now occupied by A. Porter Thompson, and here, with its magnificent lawn then extending over an entire block, brilliant parties were given both summer and winter. William A. Moseley, one of the most elegant and courtly of men, was an habitue of this house. Mr. Coe died while traveling with his wife in Europe, and a few years later Mr. Moseley married the widow. One could never imagine the dignified, stately Moseley in a position to be laughed at, but on one occasion at a dinner, when he commenced carving a duck, by someBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 459 unlucky chance the bird evaded the operation and suddenly as if reanimated, it flew from the platter, landing on the floor. The situation was so funny that every one burst out laughing, in which he joined heartily, exclaiming: “If any- one present can perform that feat as well, I will wager him a case of champagne.” The challenge was not accepted. The Townsend house with its beautiful grounds, now considerably curtailed, at the southeast corner of Main and Tupper streets, is still standing.1 In this handsome residence many delightful parties took place, the Misses Townsend being much admired. Descendants long maintained its beauty and hospitality. Nearly opposite is the fine old colonial mansion, now known as the Ensign house, but in the thirties as the Hecox residence, and later the home of John Hollister. The grounds were beautiful and much social favor was dispensed from this house in the early days. Where the Teck Theatre now stands was the Walden mansion, surrounded by acres of fine lawns, trees and flower beds. Many brilliant functions were given in this spacious residence. The host’s daughter, Kittie Walden, was a very pretty and attractive young lady. She married Gen. Meyer of weather-bureau fame. Opposite this fine property on the southeast corner of Main and Goodell streets was the elegant house built by William Hollister, where he took his lovely young wife, Grace Keeler, who enjoyed with him the gay life of those early days. E. G. Spaulding purchased this residence, where he lived until his death. Further up Main Street on the northeast corner of High, was the aristocratic mansion known as the Guy Goodrich home. It was purely colonial in style and furnished through- out in the most sumptuous manner. Many beautiful balls and receptions were given here. This residence was re- moved to Amherst Street where it forms the principal part of John C. Glenny’s fine home.2 1. Torn down, spring of 1905. 2. This house was begun by Joseph Ellicott in i823-’24, and was occupied in 1825 by him. Now known as Amherst House, it is one of Buffalo’s most beautiful residences, and is the only structure in the city directly associated with the founder of Buffalo.460 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. Pierre A. Barker built the handsome house which was known later as the Sidway residence, facing Hudson Street. He entertained munificently. The grounds, which extended far back from Hudson Street, were superb, with the many fine trees which surrounded the entire place. Mr. and Mrs. Israel T. Hatch, whose house is still standing on Cottage Street, were very hospitable enter- tainers in the early days. The stone building on Rhode Island Street, now owned by the Church Charity Foundation, was for years the home of Mr. and Mrs. Edwin Thomas. It was surrounded by beautiful grounds and its host and attractive hostess were noted for their genial hospitality. No gayer parties were given in Buffalo than were enjoyed in this substantial edi- fice.1 Mrs. Thomas was a Miss Truscott, daughter of Capt. Truscott, one of our best and most honored citizens. Then there were the charming Colton girls, Mary and Louise, who lived away out Main Street in the Cold Spring district. They were very attractive and fine-looking. At their pleasant home, the best and most genial society con- gregated and delightful dancing parties were frequently given. During one of these, a quantity of red pepper was spilled on the kitchen stove. The house was soon filled with its fumes to the distraction as well as amusement of the guests, for everybody commenced sneezing so that the house echoed and reechoed alternately with sneezes and laughter. No more hospitable entertainers ever lived than Mr. and Mrs. H. M. Kinne, who resided and kept a lavishly open house year after year, in the large frame building on the northwest corner of Pearl and Huron streets. Their parties were among the most delightful ever given in Buffalo. I might go on indefinitely mentioning the beautiful homes where unstinted hospitality was so frequently offered to society in Buffalo’s early days. There were the elegant mansions of Mr. and Mrs. George C. White, Judge and Mrs. Masten, the several Pratt residences on Swan Street, Dr. and Mrs. James P. White’s on the southeast corner of South Division and Ellicott streets, William A. Bird’s fine house i. Demolished to give room to new buildings, spring of 1905.BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 461 at Black Rock, and many others. But all dispensed that good old-fashioned home hospitality which carries with it to the end of one’s life, influences that warm the heart and memories that seem to bridge over the unknown space that separates us from the dear friends who participated in the social pleasures of early Buffalo. The gallantry and liberality of the Buffalo beaux in the ’30’s and early ’40’s inspired the pleasantest of recollections which time can never efface. There was the elegant Buckland, a notable figure as he walked on Main Street, followed by his great St. Bernard and dignified Newfoundland. My uncle, Russell Searle Brown, the dilettante, was so fastidious in his dress that he was called by common consent Dandy Brown, and this with no lack of respect. He, with his partner, John Wellington Buckland, occupied a fine suite of apartments, with their ser- vants, steward, butler, etc., in the Granite Block. I quote again from S. M. Welch’s “Recollections of Buffalo,” con- cerning these gentlemen: “They lived in grand style. When the elegant furniture for the rooms was unpacked upon the sidewalk, there was a considerable gathering of interested neighbors expressing their wonder at the reckless extravagance of these young gentlemen. Why, it must have cost $6,000.” Many were the dinners, suppers and card parties given by these men. There were three handsome brothers of unusual physique and courtly manners, who came from Canada to reside among us. They were known as the Tall Thompsons, each being over six feet in height. The oldest one, William A. Thompson, built the beautiful residence at Queenston which he named Glen Cairn. There he spent the latter years of his life. While in Buffalo these brothers kept bachelor’s hall in a large house on Washington Street near South Division Street, and here they entertained most generously. Then there were the fascinating and witty William Lov- ering, the dignified and courteous Ellicott Evans, the charm- ing, chivalrous gentleman, Asher P. Nichols, the gentle, kind-hearted Henry Kip, the gallant and agreeable Samuel462 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. M. Welch, the true-hearted Henry Garrett and many others who added zest and brilliancy to Buffalo society in these good old days. Many were the assemblies given at the American Hotel and the Eagle Tavern by these gentlemen, as well as sleighrides out to Sherwood’s, Scott’s and down to Niagara Falls. Carriages were always furnished by the committee which had the management of these assemblies, and an escort went to fetch unmarried ladies who had neither fathers nor brothers to accompany them. It was very bad form to per- mit any lady to be a wallflower, and not one of the fair sex ever thought of such a thing as not being invited to go out to supper. Has society improved in these respects ? We never heard of a “debutante” or a “bud” in those days. The young ladies were introduced to society inci- dentally, and always in the midst of their elders. No ball or party was complete without the mature portion of society. It added dignity and prestige to such occasions, often wholly lacking at the present day. Card rooms were always pre- pared for those who wearied of the maddening throng, so that a game of whist or euchre formed a pleasant pastime for many an older couple at large dancing parties. Enter- taining our friends at this time, was never considered a bur- den or even an obligation. It was always a pleasure made doubly so, by that mutual dependence enforced by the con- ditions of those early days, which made a community such as I have described from the social standpoint, a band of brothers and sisters, full of consideration and appreciation of every effort made in each other’s behalf. V. A Notable Neighborhood. “The future we know not, but safe is the past, And the first we loved, we love to the last. The dearer gifts, the longer we live, Are the quiet joys our memories give.” Have you, kind reader, after an interim of many years* reappeared upon some scene that was so intimately asso-BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 463 dated with your early life as to have made you feel as if the world had been bounded by this same locality ? If you have, perhaps you will better appreciate my sensations when on a bright June day somewhat recently, I strayed out of my usual course and walked down Eagle Street and stood for some time where beautiful linden trees once waved their noble branches against the windows of the house where my husband took me to reside in 1838, at the northeast corner of Ellicott Street. How the sweet and permeating perfume, mingled with dear voices, came back to me despite the awful devastation of this once delightful neighborhood. My little home on this corner was often the scene of such social gath- erings, as warm the heart and energize the brain to deeds of kindly import, while the parties given within its walls, will ever remain a mystery, for I cannot now explain how our two or three hundred friends were so often entertained within its limited space. The majestic lindens are gone around which merry children once romped, playing tag, puss-in-the-corner and other noisy but healthful games. Among these, the majority of whom have passed away, was mischievous Susan Flint, daughter of the eminent Dr. Austin Flint, who was our next-door neighbor. I discovered this child one day in that long ago, passing a case of lancets through a hole in the fence which divided our backyards, over to my daughter some years younger than this pre- cocious child. Then there was Lavinia Hawley, who in her maidenhood became engaged to one of Commodore Van- derbilt’s sons, but the marriage was never consummated as young Vanderbilt died soon after the engagement was an- nounced. The commodore remembered Miss Hawley hand- somely in his will. Then there was black-eyed Mary Bristol, who, in later years, married the eldest son of the beloved Rev. Dr. Inger- soll. Emily, daughter of George R. Babcock, whose quaint and original sayings are remembered to this day, was one of the children who frolicked in and out of the lindens. Then there were the two sprightly little daughters of William G. Fargo, Georgia and Irene, who little knew at that time what wealth and what sorrow were to be their portion.464 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. The American Hotel was so near Eagle Street on Main, that the families who boarded there were considered our near neighbors. They included Judge and Mrs. George W. Clinton, Mr. and Mrs. Elam R. Jewett, Mr. and Mrs. Aaron Patchin and others. The Patchins lived in very elegant style in a fine suite of rooms, having their private dining- room, butler, and all the accessories that wealth, good taste and refinement suggest. There was no ostentation in their methods of life, but somehow when Mrs. Patching coach drove up to one’s door and her dainty feet descended the folding steps which her footman was quick to let down, you realized that she was “to the manner born” and that she belonged to that royalty begotten of Christian grace and good breeding that surpasses mere rank of name and pedi- gree. This charming coterie of residents at the American Hotel were among my dearest and most prized friends to the end of life. A fine three-story brick house, very much after the New York style, was standing on the southeast corner of Wash- ington and Eagle streets until a few years ago. It was occu- pied in the thirties and forties by Dr. and Mrs. Winne. They were distinguished citizens, she being a Miss Viele and noted for her handsome figure and generally majestic appearance. This mansion was often the scene of delightful social functions of various descriptions. A very important contributor to the comfort of this locality, situated midway between Washington and Elficott streets on the south side of Eagle Street, was the pump. Here, one’s maid of all work would often loiter, innocently gossiping with the friends she met who were bound on the same errand, even though the bread was burning in her oven. Returning again to my home at the corner of Eagle and Ellicott streets, I was impressed with the fact that they built well in those days, perhaps better than they knew. For after nearly seventy years have elapsed since the completion of this block of simple, cozy homes, they stand intact, although so changed in their aspect and environment as to make oneBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 465 wonder if they had ever been the abodes of prosperous and distinguished citizens. Oliver G. Steele and Mr. Poole contracted with Benja- min G. Rathbun to build the block of four houses, which was afterwards added to, and the block was completed and ready for occupancy May i, 1835. Mr. Steele resided in the corner house until we took possession in May, 1838, when he removed to Clinton Street. I have the original contract signed by all three men; the trustfulness which each had for the other, as outlined in this document, gives interesting evi- dence of the accommodating methods then in use among good business-men. These houses cost $9,000 complete, part of which was to be paid for in crockery from my hus- band's store, and part in books from Mr. Steele's store, and the balance as should be “agreed upon later by all the parties." As I continued my walk a few steps further down Eagle on the same side of the street, I came upon the modest frame house (now entirely changed by a front built of brick and converted into a saloon), where I had enjoyed so many delightful evenings midst many genial spirits, who basked, as I did, in the radiant smiles of “Aunt Kissie" and the jolly wit and good humor of her stalwart husband, the well- known Henry W. Rogers. Can anyone who ever knew this fine-looking couple ever forget them or their kindnesses? Some, who may read these short sketches, may recall an incident which was a test of quick and brilliant repartee, not to the advantage of Mr. Rogers. It was during some tilt of words between James M. Smith, a very small man, and Mr. Rogers, who was a colossus by the side of him. Finally the latter exclaimed: “Smith, I can put you in my pocket," whereupon Mr. Smith retorted: “Well, if you did, all I have to say is, you would have more brains in your pocket than you ever had in your head." Mr. Rogers owned at this time a curly black poodle dog. He would say to him: “Which would you rather do, live a loco-foco or die a whig?" Immediately the poodle would lay himself out, and to all intents and purposes become “as dead as a door nail."466 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. The beautiful Jennie Rogers held court in this house. She was an adopted daughter and the most notably beauti- ful woman that Buffalo has ever had. She was a brunette with such perfection of form and feature, such lustrous black eyes, such luxurious coils of raven black hair as no Juno could surpass. Added to these physical charms was a rare intelligence and a grace of manner that have won for her in the annals of the belles of Buffalo, a lasting and ineffaceable memory. A disappointment in an affair of the heart was fully compensated for a few years later, by the devoted love and admiration of that highly-bred and noble gentleman, Ellicott Evans, whom she married. In the early ’40’s the Rogers moved from Eagle Street into a vine- covered cottage on Delaware Avenue. It stood very far back in the once beautiful garden that has of late years been known as the Van Vleck property. Roses bloomed by the hundreds around this cosy house, and the same bountiful hospitality was dispensed until they left Buffalo to reside in Ann Arbor. The little Eagle-street house was soon rented for a season or two, to Mr. and Mrs. John Drew of dramatic fame. At the time of which I write, the Eagle-street The- atre was at the zenith of its popularity, and the Drews were members of its very fine stock company. It was a pleasant sight to see this young couple, both so refined and agreeable in their appearance, always arm in arm and deeply inter- ested in each other’s conversation, walking back and forth to their morning rehearsal and to the evening performance. The Drews were doubtless very popular with their pro- fessional friends and scarcely a week passed, but some eminent actor or actress would accompany them home from the morning’s rehearsal. Among these, whom I well re- member, were Edwin Forrest, Junius Brutus Booth, Daven- port, Yankee Hill, Charlotte Cushman, Fanny Kemble, Julia Deane, Laura Keane, Anna Cora Mowatt, and several others who have never been excelled in their several lines of dra- matic portraiture. On the south side of Eagle Street near Oak Street is a block of houses, in one of which resided Rev. Cicero Hawks,BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 467 rector of Trinity Church and afterwards bishop of Missouri. Mr. Hawks was a swarthy, medium-sized man, who ap- peared to have inherited Indian blood. It was said that he was directly descended from Pocahontas. He and Mrs. Hawks did much for the welfare of Trinity parish and they were thoroughly loved and respected by all who knew them. After their departure from Buffalo, Rev. Dr. Ingersoll and family occupied their house. This block still stands very much as it was, at this time of writing, 1903. As I muse on the familiar forms that regularly traversed this street, one more stately than the. rest seems to pass before me. It is Mrs. Lovering, as gentle as she was beau- tiful; she was a grand specimen of the old-time American lady. Would that her type had never left us! The Lovering house at this time was on the south side of Eagle Street, next to Mr. Hawks’. It was always a social center for the most refined and cultured of our citizens. Three very attrac- tive daughters were magnets, not to be resisted by either their lady or gentlemen friends. Capt. Truscott and his charming family lived in an adjoining house, and retracing our steps to the southeast corner of Eagle and Ellicott streets, we come to the fine brick house at this time occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Edward Stevenson, two of the noblest of friends and citizens. Later, after the Stevensons had re- moved to Washington Street, C. C. Bristol bought this spacious home. Among the royal entertainers at this time were Mr. and Mrs. John Lay, who lived on Eagle Street below Elm Street, in a handsome house, long since taken down to make room for less spacious buildings. Mr. Lay was a very wealthy man in these early days, and he spent his money on his friends in princely fashion. Still further down the street on the northeast comer of4 Pine, was the elegant residence of Judge and Mrs. Philander Bennett. This house was of stone, built in fine colonial style, scarcely surpassed in its arrangement and interior finish by costly houses of the present day. It was sur- rounded by grounds of extensive beauty with magnificent old trees, many graveled walks, numberless flower beds, and the greenest of lawns, where several deer disported them-468 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. selves, giving this fine domain the appearance of a park. Here, elegant balls were frequently given, and all Buffalo delighted to assemble under Judge Bennett’s hospitable roof. A charming daughter married Mr. Rollin Germain, and they kept up the prestige of this stately home for several years after the death of Judge and Mrs. Bennett. This mansion has been razed and the grounds are maintained as Bennett Park, but are less spacious and beautiful than in their original state. I will mention a strange coincidence in names, which only added to the unique peculiarities of this once notable neighborhood. On the northwest corner of Eagle and Elli- cott streets was a grocer whose name was Shilling; on the southwest corner another by the name of Penny; next to him on Eagle Street was a blacksmith by the name of Mills; further down, on the corner of Oak Street, was a butcher by the name of Farthing, and on the opposite corner was a grocer by the name of Ruble. It was very evident that we were rapidly approaching the era of the “mighty dollar,” and it must have been an oversight of Dame Fortune that the personification of this coveted quantity was left out of our populous and pleasant neighborhood. VI. The Garrison. There are probably many persons now residing in Buf- falo, who do not know that in the later ’30’s all the land from North Street running southerly on Main Street to Allen, thence through to Delaware, was utilized by the Gov- ernment of the United States for a military post. At this time it was beautifully laid out for this purpose and the necessary buildings were constructed, consisting of officers’ and soldiers’ quarters, guard house, mess rooms, sutler’s store and stables. The center of this large tract was a well-kept lawn as level as a parlor floor, with the historic flag-pole midway,BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 469 from the top of which Old Glory waved from sunrise until sunset, for about five years. Surrounding this fine turf- covered ground, which was the parade ground, was a low rail fence painted white, separating it from a wide roadway that extended in front of the houses entirely around this lawn, and leading out to Main Street through an archway, or sally-port, which was the principal entrance to the post. Around this plot on Allen Street, Delaware Avenue and North Street was a high board fence whitewashed, with a gate opening out upon Delaware Avenue. The houses all faced the parade; all the above streets being scarcely more than lanes, with the exception of Main Street, which was the great thoroughfare that its name implies. It must be understood that this locality was “out in the country,” although a very delightful country it was, with its forest trees that have been cut down by the hundreds, and its countless singing birds that the inroads of a great city have driven away forever. The grade of Delaware Street, as it was then called, was very much changed in later years, by being cut down several feet, thus leaving much of the land formerly occupied by the garrison “high and dry,” which it remains to this day. A portion of the ground on the west side of Delaware Avenue also attests to this fact. This ground was a cemetery where many of Buffalo’s most prominent citizens were buried in the ?3o’s and early ^o’s. A very old man with long flowing beard as white as snow, with barely clothing enough to cover him, lived, hermit fashion, in this burying-ground during the summer months. He was perfectly harmless, but had very little intellect from some cause or other, and was known as “Crazy Robinson.” It was a weird experience sometimes to look out from this back gate opening out on Delaware Avenue, and see this tall, gaunt figure with beard waving in the breeze, climbing in and out among the tombstones and over the graves, on his way to the garrison to get his meals, for during these months he was fed from the army stores, afterwards returning to the lonely but beautiful graveyard, to repose under its rustling trees.470 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. POINSETT BARRACKS, BUFFALO, IN 1840. Drawn from data furnished by Mrs. Poole, Mr. E. B. D. Riley and others. Given only as approximately correct. No other diagram of these grounds during the military occupation is known. From near the corner of North Street, running towards Allen until about two-thirds of the way down, were officers’ quarters with their backyards on Delaware Avenue. At about this distance from North Street, the line of houses turned and ran parallel with Allen Street, with quite exten- sive gardens in the rear. Behind these were soldiers’ quar- ters, mess rooms and a large stable which is still standing on Allen Street, at the corner of Franklin.1 The guard house was at the Main-street entrance and offices, sutler’s store, etc., ran along the North-street side. I can see this beautiful tract of land with its simple but comfortable buildings, its bristling cannon, the many forms i. This statement is doubted by old residents to whom it has been sub- mitted. Possibly some of the earlier walls are included in the present struc- tures.BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 471 so martial in their bearing, red-sashed, with sword hilts and epaulettes gleaming in the sunshine, as if it were but yes- terday. The Patriot War broke out in the late ’30’s and for a time there was considerable fear as to the outcome, as Buffalo had no protection but the militia gathered in and around this city. Consternation and fright were beginning to pervade our usually happy and calm community, when the Government came to our relief by sending in 1840, eight companies of the 2d Artillery under command of Col. Ichabod Crane. This contingent was stationed at the gar- rison, but remained there but a few months. It was suc- ceeded by six companies from the same regiment, com- manded by Lieut.-Col. J. W. Bankhead. Lieut. Barry, who during the Civil War became a general and was chief of engineers, belonged to this command. He married Miss McKnight of this city. Lieutenants Simpson and Woodruff were also with this command and later belonged to the engineers’ corps. The former married Sophia Champlin, daughter of Commodore Champlin, and the latter carried away from Buffalo one of its loveliest maidens, Miss Mayhew, the daughter of a much esteemed citizen. About this time Gen. Winfield Scott also appeared upon the scene, and I shall never forget the feeling of security that this yellow-plumed, gold-laced hero inspired every one with. He was a grand looking and appearing man, of large stature and very imposing manners. I had the pleasure of meeting him at this time, as he was dined and wined as such a distinguished man would be likely to be. The six com- panies of artillery under Lieut.-Col. Bankhead, remained in Buffalo but little more than a year and were relieved by companies “A” “C,” “D,” “F” and “K,” 2d Infantry, under command of that staunch fighter, Gen. Bennett Riley, in the summer of 1842. They remained at the garrison until 1845. The various companies under this command were drawn from several posts; Gen. Riley’s coming from Florida, another from Fort Brady at the Sault Ste. Marie, another from Fort Niagara, and so on. The coming of these troops472 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. meant more to me than to any other resident of Buffalo, for it brought two sisters who had married army officers, re- spectively, from these two above-mentioned posts; also a bridegroom, Lieut. Hoffman, for my youngest sister. Thus all my sisters resided in this garrison, and as I had spent a year prior to my residence in this city at Fort Brady, and another year I had lived at the castle at Fort Niagara, I was by no means a stranger to many of the officers and their wives when they came for a brief three years to reside in Buffalo. A fine band accompanied this regiment and many were the opportunities, both social and otherwise, given to our citizens to hear its inspiring music. The invitation to acome and take tea,” and hear the band play, was freely given by the officers and their wives. Society here was very much augmented by the arrival of these most agreeable people. Several of the officers were unmarried men and dancing was one of the accomplishments that a West Pointer has always taken pride in. The waltz was just beginning to be very popular in this country, and Buffalo was not backward in copying Paris and Vienna in respect to it and the beautiful Strauss music that seems inseparable from it. Society went wild over both, as well as the officers who added so much dash and brilliancy to every function given. Again the conquering hero came, for soon after the arrival of these troops, Gen. Scott came on a visit of inspec- tion, and, as all signs of war and rumors of war had ceased, his stay in Buffalo was an ovation both with the military and civilians. Round after round of balls, receptions, card parties and champagne suppers were given in his honor. Among the most delightful entertainments at this time was a whist party, given by Mr. and Mrs. Rodman Starkweather, and I felt exceedingly complimented when Gen. Scott asked me to be his partner. The Starkweathers had recently moved into a new house which they had built on the site now occupied by the Coal & Iron Exchange, Washington Street, near Seneca. It was a large frame house of colonial style, with one especially peculiar feature, and that was an immense locust tree which reared its stately branches aloftRESIDENCE OF ANSLEY WILCOX, DELAWARE AVENUE, BUFFALO. FORMERLY PART OF THE U. S. MILITARY POSTBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 478 over the entire front of the house, the steps to the main entrance being built around it. It seems to me as I look back to this period, that Buffalo society was at the zenith of its glory. There were so many charming women, both married and single, such an array of fine professional and business men, whose chivalry in our behalf could always be relied upon, that with the addition of these officers and their wives, it left nothing to be desired in the way of social brilliancy and eclat. It may be of interest to many readers to know who some of these officers were, and how their houses were situated. The one still standing and now facing Delaware Avenue is the home of Ansley Wilcox, made more historic than ever by the ceremonial of the oath of office taken within its walls by Theodore Roosevelt during Pan-American year. This house was a double one, very simple in construction in 1842, and was the home of Capt. Casey, father of Tom Casey as he was familiarly called, the distinguished engineer of the Public Library building at Washington, D. C. The other half was occupied by Dr. Wood, surgeon, and his family, including two pretty daughters called Puss and Dump. Mrs. Wood was a Miss Taylor, daughter of Zachary Taylor, who was later President of the United States. Towards North Street on this Delaware-avenue line were the quarters used by Capt. Westcott and wife, Lieut. Isaac Richardson, Douglass Burnett, my brother-in-law, and family, also Lieut. Heintzelman, who married Miss Stuart, a sister of Miss Matilda Stuart, well known in Buffalo. Some distance south of the Wood and Casey houses were the quarters used by the batchelors. Among these were Lieuts. Hayden, Gibson, Murray, Schurman, Martin and others. Lieutenant Martin soon married a Miss Truscott, daughter of Capt. Truscott, already referred to. At this point the line of houses turned and continued in the direction of Main Street. Along this line lived Lieuts. Day, Anderson, Long, Albertis and the commandant, Gen. Riley. One of the events of social importance soon after the arrival of the 2d Infantry was the beautiful military wed-474 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. ding of my sister. This occurred at the garrison, at the home of our sister, Mrs. Edwin Ramsey Long, which was connected with the adjoining one thrown open for this occasion. The rooms were decorated with flags in great profusion, soldiers were stationed everywhere to usher in and serve the guests. The fine regiment band played during the evening before a brilliant company from town, inter- spersed with the officers, all in full dress uniform. The refreshment table was loaded with good things, many of them made by the ladies of the garrison, such as chicken salad, charlotte russe, whip syllabub, jellies and cake. This being the only wedding that took place at the garrison, it was considered a very important event from a social stand- point as well as the sacred union of two very interesting persons. Lieut. Alexander Thompson Hoffman and his bride lived in a house located just south of the Wood and Casey quarters. It was a most inspiring sight of a Sunday morning to see these troops at the garrison emerge through the great arch on Main Street, and march to the enlivening music of the band, down in front of “the Churches/’ where they disbanded with orders to go to whatever service they pre- ferred. Scores of them went to St. Paul’s and the First Church. After the service was over they formed again and marched up Main Street to their parade ground, where they disbanded once more. But all too soon orders came from Washington for the removal of the garrison; and for weeks confusion, bustle, and sorrow-laden activity took possession of the once peace- ful but gay regiment, whose officers had brought so much of staunch character and so many lasting friendships to our frontier city. It seemed as if all Buffalo was in tears at their departure. For some time after, the grounds where they had, as it were, pitched their tents, were more deserted and avoided than the graveyard directly opposite. As their coming meant so much to me, so their going did also, for it was decreed that never again was I to see the three noble husbands of my sisters. They passed away soon after their departure from Buffalo, one closely followingBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 475 the other. Many of the officers, the memory of whom kindles such precious recollection, fell by the wayside from frequent changes of climate and that scourge to the army, death-dealing malaria. Others rose to distinction in the wars that were to follow, notably the Mexican War, conflicts with the Indians and the Civil War. In the first, General Riley fought with unswerving bravery, courting death, as it were, where shot and shell were thickest, as an insidious disease had made its appearance, which to a brave soldier was a thousand times more to be dreaded than death upon the battlefield. But he was proof against bullets and lived to suffer the martyrdom of wasting disease; a hero to the end. After the Mexican war, General Riley was ordered to California, where he became its first governor, which posi- tion he held for two years. Soon after this he was retired, and having formed lasting friendships with many of our citizens, he and his family returned to this city where they resided on Main Street above Barker until his death. A son, daughter and grand- daughter of this distinguished soldier are still residents of Buffalo. The days that the regiment under General Riley’s com- mand was stationed here were among the happiest of my life and the zest, variety and brilliancy it added to our young city were fully appreciated by every one. The changes which were already foreshadowed and were brought about by the introduction of the railroad, brought strangers of every condition and kind to our doors. The departure of the 2d Infantry in 1845 may be said to have marked the end of a most brilliant period in Buffalo society. That ex- clusiveness which the locality, surroundings, climate and conditions of the times forced upon us, was now at an end never to return. It is pleasant to reflect upon the fact that, however much we have gained in many ways, no more sub- stantial foundation could have been created for the great hospitality for which Buffalo is noted, than that handed down by the society of the ’3o’s and early ’4o’s.476 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. VII. Old-time Tea Parties. Many Buffalonians must remember the little tea parties that their mothers and grandmothers used to give, when nests of tables were brought out from quaint corners and scattered among the dozen or more favored few who were so fortunate as to be invited. These delightful affairs included the young lady and young man of the family, as there were no lines drawn in those days to mark the difference in ages, when social matters were considered. These nests, very often of beautiful tables made of papier mache, generally consisted of five or six, graduated in size. Two to three per- sons were accommodated at each table and as the repast was comparatively simple and never later than half-past six, these entertainments were very little trouble to the hostess. A salad with cold tongue, turkey or ham, biscuits and coffee, followed by preserves and delicious cake, were usually served. On these occasions the much prized “tea set” was in evidence, and daughters and granddaughters of the present day consider these heirlooms almost of priceless value. Elegant silver was also much used, and even if there was no butler, as was more often the case, the maid of all work, though she was of the present type, soon learned to be quite an expert at “passing the things,” under the constant tuition of her mistress. It must be remembered that domes- tics were “trained” in those days. At the present time there is no law or order in the rank and file of this service. At the time of which I am writing, I had a Hollandese by the euphonious name of Kazina Taharr; thrifty, industrious and quick of comprehension in every emergency. She could not speak a word of English when I engaged her services, the business being done through an interpreter. She re- mained with me three years at $1.00 per week. I have been asked many times how it was possible to give large parties in the early days of Buffalo, when we had no caterers, few professional cooks, and rarely average good cooks employed in private houses. Really, the giving of a party meant a gala time of a fortnight for the hostess and her intimate friends. In those days we had neighbors; andBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 477 the injunction to “love your neighbor as yourself” had an almost literal significance to those who lived on either side of the street, for at least that particular block. They came to the rescue early, to write the invitations. Sometimes this was done by the unmarried young women and occupied two or three evenings, when they were sure to be joined by sev- eral beaux, who managed to address the envelopes with com- mendable correctness, considering the temptations to which they were exposed by these sometimes flirtatious sirens. Then came the congregating of the matrons for cake mak- ing, jelly making, turkey roasting, ham and tongue boiling, while the hostess, with such assistance as she could com- mand, would, on the day of the ball, make the custards, whips, floating islands, biscuits, etc., while some good soul, who much preferred being in the background, though glad to partake of the excitement of such an occasion, was always available when the important evening arrived, to stew and fry the oysters and superintend the making of the coffee. In the early forties a colored man, by the name of Thompson, often took charge of this part of the supper with great suc- cess. He also would take your order days before hand for a la mode beef, which was a very popular piece de resistance in those days. He has never been excelled in this very sub- stantial and imposing dish. And who can forget the boned turkeys, showily garnished with red and amber jellies, the hams gorgeous in their decorations of whole cloves, en- circled with rings of cayenne pepper, with extremity decked out with frills of white paper, deftly hiding any trace of a bone. Then we had a very prince of confectioners, McArthur, of revered and delightful memory, who made charlotte russe the like of which seems to be unobtainable at the present day. In other words the art died with him. From his hands, made with a large proportion of thick cream flavored with the genuine vanilla bean, and with an outer covering of sponge cake that knew no chemicals in the way of baking powder, soda or ammonia, but eggs by the dozen to make it light, a charlotte russe came forth as elaborate as a Swiss chalet, and firm and impressive it stood on the supper table478 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. the entire evening. How different from those of today that so often lop and slop over to the disgust of many a hostess. McArthur’s ice cream towered in all manner of fanciful shapes, giving dignity to the bountiful spread, while his decorated loaves of pound, fruit, jelly and sponge cake re- posed in frosted magnificence on glass standards, the bases of which were imbedded in beds of mottoes, fruits, nuts and raisins. It may truly be said that this was the pyramidal age ; for no table was considered complete without several of these decorative features from the confectioner’s hands. Often there were four of these candied wonders, one at each corner concocted as follows: One made of kisses with a shower of amber sugar over them, another of chocolate drops with a lace work of white frosting, another of oranges cut in quarters, garnished with spun sugar, and a fourth made of macaroons decorated with candied cherries. These pyramids were from two to two and a half feet high, and stood like sentinels guarding the delectable viands gener- ously provided. The centerpiece was either a silver mounted glass epergne, or it was made by graduated glass standards, one piled on top of the other to the height desired, gorgeous mottoes, grapes and oranges being used to fill them; the whole topped off with a small vase of flowers. When the centerpiece was of this last style, it suggested a watch tower and looked defiant enough, until the table of good things was assailed by husbands, brothers and beaux, when all these fine accessories were soon demolished and little left of the decorations to “tell the tale.” As I have already written, there were pockets in those days; and no mother returned to her little ones at home, without taking several souvenirs to them from these well-laden supper tables. Compare one of these old-fashioned spreads with the mixed-up messes now in vogue, and which is the more ap- petizing menu? While no American Beauty roses or exquisite lilies could be had for decorating our tables, no southern smilax or delicate ferns, still, as I see them in my mind’s eye as they appeared over sixty years ago, with pyramids, turrets, tow-BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 479 ers and globes, they pass before me like gorgeous mosques laden with glittering minarets, and I wonder if anything more beautiful has been devised since, in the way of ele- gantly decorated supper tables. In these days of natural and illuminating gas, electric lights and several kinds of coal, one may wonder how we managed to keep our homes comfortable and bright, as none of these were to be obtained in the ’3o’s and early ?4o’s. But it was not so difficult a matter as one might suppose. What we know nothing of, and have never had, does not enter into the necessity or comfort of life. Wood as fuel was all we had with which to heat our large houses or to supply the cook stove. The Dutch oven was still in use, and for baking bread, cake and pies it was as convenient as more modern ovens. We paid from $2 to $2.75 a cord for the best wood, and from 25 to 50 cents a cord for sawing and splitting and having it piled up in the cellar or woodshed, ready for use. The best rooms in all houses were provided with large open fireplaces. These were in constant use when the weather was cold, and I have no recollection of any discom- forts from lack of heat in our homes. The several crackling and pleasantly odorous fires gave out a most cheerful light as well as warmth, which was sadly missed when the hideous black stove made its appearance a little later. Our infant children were never known to have their arms and necks covered in those days, when in the house. As to lighting, the astral lamp with its cut and engraved glass globe set off with brilliant prisms, gave a soft if some- times odorous light, but no more offensive than the oil lamps of today, and they were much more ornamental. Candles of all grades were universally used, and on occa- sions of entertainment these astral lamps were supplemented by countless tapers of almost transparent wax, such as cannot ordinarily be obtained at the present day. One can scarcely imagine how effective and brilliant was the illumination of these spacious rooms, the light ema- nating from numerous lamps, silver candlesticks, candelabra,480 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. prism-laden girondoles, and often cut glass chandeliers made to hold dozens of wax candles. As I have said before, we had neighbors in those early days, and the common custom was to borrow anything from an egg to a piano; hence all the accessories needed on grand occasions were easily within reach. As the walls of these spacious houses were almost inva- riably white, or papered in delicate tints, and the woodwork except the doors, was always painted white in the grand salons, it was not so difficult to light them well. The doors in handsome houses were often of solid mahogany or rose- wood, and were not hidden by superfluous draperies. It was the custom to receive calls after n a. m. The officers from the garrison and their wives more frequently came “to pay their respects” in the morning, than at any other time. Perhaps this was due to their living “so far out.” Cake and madeira or sherry wine were always offered, and to be without these was considered grossly inhospitable. The custom of “dropping in” evenings was universal; one never expected to be without several friends on any evening when there was not an important social affair taking place. Conversation was an art in these good old days; some of it was doubtless “small talk,” but it was entertaining and bound people in undying friendships. In these days of profound study and deep thinking, nervous prostratio'n takes the place of old-fashioned good comradeship. Which is the better ? I shall touch but lightly on the subject of dress. It was not as complex either in style or variety as now, but women of wealth and fashion wore very elegant clothes. Young ladies wore swiss muslins, tarletans and mulls almost ex- clusively to balls, while the matrons were resplendent in brocades, velvets and satins. Diamonds were frequently worn, and the head was laden on full-dress occasions with feathers, flowers and turbans. We had a fashionable French milliner in those days who could speak but very little English. She was, however, am- bitious to learn and was inclined to imitate all that appealed to her idea of correct usage. One day a well-known citizenBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 481 accompanied his wife into Madam Blancon’s store, she wishing to purchase a bonnet. The lady tried one on and turned to her husband for his opinion. He exclaimed: “It’s devilish ugly !” She replied: “But it’s French.” The result was the bonnet was bought and paid for. Imagine the astonishment of the next customer who tried on several bonnets, and as each one was being scanned in the mirror, Madam Blancon would exclaim: “It's devilish ugly, but it’s French,” little knowing that she was running down her own wares. Our society was full of ceremony and courtly usages; at the same time it was quaintly provincial. There was little false pride in those days. If the front steps needed sweeping and “the girl” was busy with other work, the mistress of the house took the broom in broad daylight and swept them clean, and cared not who saw her do it. Two unique figures were frequently seen trudging to market with basket on their arms. One was the Hon. Albert H. Tracy, the other was Rodman Starkweather; both ac- complished and elegant men and as noble in form and physique as they were strong in intellect. Both were prom- inent in the business world and were accounted rich. They were too self-respecting to think of any criticism that might be aroused, and as it was a matter of convenience and expediency, they cared not who saw them. As women never did the marketing in these days men were the buyers as well as the providers. I doubt if either Mr. Tracy or Mr. Stark- weather could have been induced to trundle a baby carriage, so strictly were the lines drawn between men's and women's work. I will say that scores of citizens, noted for their prom- inence and hospitality, are not mentioned in these detached reminiscences, who have equal claim with those that are. With few exceptions I have written of those with whom I was most intimate in my younger days. They in their integrity and civic pride are samples of what constituted good citizenship in those early days. While grateful for the advances so rapidly coming upon us, I feel that the men and women of society in Buffalo sixty482 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. and seventy years ago, were friends to whom we are last- ingly indebted. It behooves those who always cry “for- ward/’ to pause and look back for much that may be learned, before “all the former things have passed away.” VIII. Some Early Singers. Old Trinity Church was the quaintest, cosiest, homeliest edifice in Buffalo, if not in Western New York, but at Christmas time it was transformed into “a bower of beauty,” never to be forgotten by those who worshipped under the odorous evergreen wreaths. And what a service was held within its walls on Christ- mas Eve! It was, indeed, a gala time in the church. Prepa- rations were started a month before, by both choir and con- gregation. The former was usually a sextette, and met at private houses to rehearse anthems and festival composi- tions that would do credit to any similar choir of the present day. The congregation of Trinity never favored either chorus or congregational singing; but the church was in advance of any in Buffalo in the early ’40’s on account of the quality of the music produced and the fine voices usually secured. An Englishman by the name of Barton was organist for two years, after the church at the southeast corner of Washington and Mohawk streets was completed. He was succeeded by Everett L. Baker, whose genius was limited only by his own indifferent appreciation of it. Mr. Poole was chorister, basso, sometimes organist, vestryman and clerk of the vestry, for twenty years from the time Trinity was completed. Before this, services were held by the seceders from old St. Paul’s, in a disused building called Duffy’s Theatre, located on South Division Street. It is a singular coincidence that so often a congregation worships in an abandoned theatre, and vice versa, so many disused churches are purchased for sites upon which toBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 483 build a theatre. Certain it is, old Trinity had its beginning in a theatre, and ended by having the once hallowed spot pass into hands that projected and commenced the erection of a theatre thereon. This project proved a failure, for which no one who worked to help pay for old Trinity can be sorry. Isaac Sherman held a mortgage on Trinity Church, as sundry papers and receipts among Mr. Poole’s records give evidence of. Mrs. Ambrose Sterling was the first soprano of Trinity Church choir. Illness cut short her valuable services and I found myself a substitute in her place, What I had intended should last but a few weeks, continued for twelve years. My satisfaction in looking back over this period of the struggles, anxieties and work done to pay the debts of the young offshoot from St. Paul’s, is that more than $2,000 was saved to this parish, by the donation of my services, $200 a year being the regular salary paid to a church soprano in those days. An Englishman by the name of Pewtress was employed as tenor in Trinity’s choir in the early ’40’s. He had a very remarkable voice and his singing showed experience and cultivation in the best schools of oratorio music. He could sing high “C” as easily as any middle note. Everett L. Baker wrote the much-admired and ever popular music to the words, “Shout the Glad Tidings,” for me; and it was sung every Christmas Eve in Trinity Church, during the time that I was a member of the choir. It has been pronounced the finest musical composition ever written to these inspiring words. It certainly has been the most popular. In the early ’40’s William Eckley of Boston came to this city to reside, and as he possessed a fine baritone voice and considerable musical culture, he was soon prevailed upon to become a member of Trinity choir. He sang regu- larly for several years, giving his services, and no one did more for the cause of good church music than did this most Christian gentleman. Rev. Cicero Hawks entered into the Christmas spirit with most devoted fervor; but his ministrations were of short duration, and Rev. Edward Ingersoll appears before484 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. me as the one most intimately connected with Trinity's early Christmas Eve services. How many beautiful sermons were preached on these occasions by this handsome and saintly man! No one could, in more touching tones or rhythmic sentences, send joy to the hearts of his hearers that “a child is born," whose every mission brings “peace on earth, good will to men." As I think of him now, I seem to see his stately form surrounded as of old, by so many of Trinity's old parishioners, such as Mr. and Mrs. Jerry Radcliffe, Mr. and Mrs. George W. Clinton, Mr. and Mrs. Robert Hollister, Mr. and Mrs. Gibson T. Williams, Mr. and Mrs. A. A. Evstaphieve, Mr. and Mrs. William Laverack, Mr. and Mrs. Henry Kip, Mr. and Mrs. A. D. Patchin, Dr. and Mrs. Winne, Mr. and Mrs. E. R. Jewett and scores of old Trinity's beloved ones, who even now unite the Christmas of today with that far-off festival so much enjoyed in the '40's. To trim the church was a part of the pleasure, and in the basement or Sunday-school room, opening on Mohawk Street, such a genial throng of young and middle-aged men and women as assembled every advent season, it is difficult to equal. To surpass either the enthusiasm or earnestness of the workers, to say nothing of the hilarity, would be im- possible. Mr. Baker, the organist, had a fine sense of the artistic in decoration and made the designs for trimming the church for many years. These were carried out and executed in the most complete manner possible. Harry Daw, just before the great festival, was always at the top of the ladder, working night and day to perfect the plans for the beautiful Christ- mas decorations. Hundreds and thousands of feet of ever- green wreathing were made by the deft fingers of Trinity's dames amidst laughter, good will and that delightful social converse, which alas for all of us, is almost entirely oblit- erated from the life of today. Who can forget- the fun that Robert Hollister was noted for on such occasions? Who would ever forget the contagious laughter of Jeanette Stark- weather when an opportunity like this occurred, Mr. Evstaphieve with his keen and ready wit, Mrs. Seth C.BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 485 Hawley with a jolly sense of humor that seemed to have no end, Mr. and Mrs. William B. Peck always agreeable and helpful, Mr. and Mrs. Henry W. Rogers and Mr. and Mrs. James M. Smith, all well known in society and Trinity church for their delightful and cheering manners and their hearty support whenever called upon ? After the evening’s work was done, how often were both young and old bundled into cumbersome sleighs to be taken for a lively turn before going home! Sometimes we stopped at some hospitable friend’s to partake of an oyster supper and other good cheer. When Christmas Eve came, everyone flocked to church. As there were no chimes, great bells from far and near pro- claimed the joyful occasion. How beautiful the old church looked with its countless festoons leading from ceiling to window sills, from pillars to chancel rail, from reredos to pulpit front! In fitting spaces, shields, mitres and suitable emblems were interspersed that shone and glittered like diamonds; while high up over the chancel gleamed a star, as brilliant as pulverized glass or mica could make it. Under this were the words in evergreen: “Unto us a Child is born,” while on the railing of the gallery, which was directly opposite the chancel, was the familiar line of “Shout the glad tidings.” How the children gloried in this joyful service! Everybody was in an exalted state of mind on these occasions. Many were the bundles, boxes and baskets con- cealed in the pews until service was over. Then such a handshaking, “Merry Christmas” greetings, and exchanges of gifts as is never seen in any city church nowadays. Oh, the pity of it! Shadrake, the good sexton, who served faith- fully for many a year, also his son, “the blow boy,” as he was called, were both presented with little gifts and it was pleasant to see them, like all the rest of us, so happy and grateful. Lucas Chester was also a “blow boy” in the ’40’s in Trinity church. While the new order of things contains much that is an improvement on the old, with the passing away of those who made old Trinity church an abode of “peace and good will”486 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. there seems to have been buried with them a love for the Christmas of the church; the beautiful Christmas Eve of many years ago, when hallelujahs vied with the clanging of the bells, to spread the good news of the Saviour's birth. May the spirits of those who gave such kindly greetings under the masses of twining greens be with us to the end. I have a valued souvenir of a fair which was given by the ladies of this parish, early in the '40's, to raise a fund to pay for the organ. It is a white satin handkerchief case, handsomely embroidered in greens and browns. The word “souvenir” surrounded by a wreath of oak leaves and acorns is designed on the upper side. The case is bordered with green chenille and lined with quilted white satin. It is in perfect preservation, but the sachet perfume is gone. Mrs. Cyrus Athearn, a devoted worker in the church, made sev- eral of these articles for the fair. They sold readily for $6 each, and a young gentleman named Henry Ogden pur- chased one and presented it to me. I think his father built and resided in the house on North Street, so long occupied by Josiah Letchworth. We realized a profit of $600 from the sales at this fair. Leaving the church most dear to my heart, some allu- sions to the older ones known as “the Churches” may not be out of place. Younger generations can scarcely imagine how pictur- esque and beautiful were the sites upon which St. Paul's and the First Church stood, in the '30's and early '40's. The large structures which have replaced these early buildings and the widening of sidewalks and roadways have curtailed the extent of the lawns considerably, as they appeared originally. The elms and maple trees that cast such grateful shade in summer and gave shelter to hundreds of feathered songsters who piped their canticles of praise, have all dis- appeared. The countless Indians who reclined in stolid ease and idleness on steps and grass are no more seen. Among these was the famous orator Red Jacket, who was often a familiar figure on Main Street. He was a noble-looking Indian when sober, and sauntered in and out of various stores when heBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 487 was not sullen. Most of the merchants could speak enough of his language to greet him pleasantly, to which he would respond with a grunt. In his latter years he gave little evidence of the great gift with which he had swayed his people, for firewater had reduced a giant to a pigmy.1 The unobstructed views of Lake Erie have been shut off by huge and ugly buildings in brick and stone, and as one now scents the thick and cloudy atmosphere one realizes how easy it was to retain the grayish blue of pretty St. Paul's, and the pure white of the First Church in the smokeless period. The breezes of Lake Erie were not always well tempered, especially in this locality of open and unprotected streets. It was nearly as necessary in a gale to strap and lash one's self for safety, as for the sailor to be lashed to the mast when tempest-driven on the seas. As for hats! it was no unusual thing to see a dozen or more at one time wildly careering up, down and across the street, and men rushing from all directions in frantic efforts to rescue their wind- tossed headgear. The sight was comical. Here in the midst of the bustle and the business of Main Street stood these twin churches, like beacon lights, minis- tering to the joys and sorrows of the pioneers of Buffalo. My heart goes out in grateful remembrance to the good men and women of these historic churches. An amusing incident comes to my mind concerning the music of an Easter service at the First Church, which was unusually elaborate for a congregation of the Presbyterian denomination in those early days. A Mr. Stephenson, who was a leading jeweler on Main Street, was conductor of the choir in the early '40's. The music was generally of the congregational kind, supplemented by a chorus on special occasions. Mr. Stephenson evidently believed in realistic effects, and he took much pride and pleasure in employing a trum- 1. As Red Jacket died in 1830, five years before the writer of these rem- iniscences came to Buffalo to live, her impressions of him may have been gained in earlier visits when as a child she came to Buffalo from Le Roy; or perhaps, from Mr. Poole, who came to Buffalo in 1825, and must * often have seen Red Jacket as Mrs. Poole has described him.488 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. peter to produce the proper tones at the right times. A fine anthem had been duly rehearsed for weeks and at the words “When the trumpet shall sound,” the singers and a few privileged spectators were electrified, as it were, by the stentorian blast that promptly came forth from the sonorous trumpet. Stephenson was in raptures over the success of this additional sensation, which was to be kept a secret from members of the church generally. He rubbed his hands with delight whenever he spoke of the fine anthem his choir was preparing for Easter Sunday, but never a word of the trumpeter. The long-looked-for day arrived and the church was packed to the doors. Everybody was in a flutter of excite- ment, as it was noised about that something extra was “in the wind,” and so it was. The anthem proceeded without a hitch until the words, “When the trumpet shall sound,” an instant’s pause—then Stephenson’s voice in robust and de- spairing tones—“Oh, my! whar’s that trumpet ?” This un- expected climax created the profoundest astonishment. In looking back to the times of which I have written it is very evident that there was an influence and warmth in our “society” in the ’30’s and early ’40’s sadly lacking at the present day. The “heart” that was in it in these good old days, that caused kindness and sympathy to permeate all its ranks, lent an attractiveness and stability to what would otherwise have been frivolous and fleeting. Christian cour- tesy and unselfishness marked the lady and gentleman of that long ago period. Society built upon any other foundation, such as culture or wealth alone, becomes— “The baseless fabric of a vision.” “They soon grow old who grope for gold In marts where all is bought and sold; Who hire for self and on some shelf In darkened vaults hoard up their pelf. Cankered and crusted o’er with mold For them their youth itself is old.” The day of emotions and chivalry is well nigh past. Is this not a loss that no gain can compensate ? It may be wiseBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 489 to guard against becoming a pent-up and repressed people, lest we Americans, like the grand machines so wonderfully invented year by year, gauge all our actions by scientific calculation. After a continuous residence in and about Buffalo for more than seventy years, I can exclaim with the psalmist, “Peace be within thy walls and prosperity within thy palaces/' IX. New Year's Day in the ’30’s. “Tonight where mirth with music dwells, His wrinkled cheek, his locks of snow Gleam near the grandsons of the belles He smiled on sixty years ago!” The holidays were very gay in these long ago times, for married and older people as well as the younger ones, the latter falling in with the general festivities as additions, but not as leaders or monopolizers. Business was light at this season of. the year and most of the stores and offices closed their doors at three or four o’clock during this week. While Christmas was a festival of the church and the occasion for family reunions, New Year’s Day was truly a time for friends and acquaintances to celebrate by making and receiving calls, exchanging the “compliments of the season,” and such hospitality as our townspeople generally extended at their homes. This day, so fraught with kind wishes, hearty handshaking and good cheer, seemed to give strength and inspiration for the work of those to follow, and it has always seemed a mistake that the good old custom of “keeping open house” on the ist of January, has passed out of fashion. There must be many younger men and women who well remember Van Velsor’s New Year’s cakes. I had almost said that New Year’s was ushered in by these famous con- fections for their popularity in Buffalo was almost universal. They were of various shapes and sizes, some being eighteen490 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. or twenty inches across, and from three quarters to an inch in thickness; the smaller ones were about half an inch thick. They were heart-shaped, or in the form of stars, spheres or diamond-shaped, with flowers, baskets of fruit, cornucopias, birds, etc., stamped on the upper side in very distinct relief. They were redolent with caraway seeds, and fond papas quite generally stopped on their way home on New Year’s Eve, to purchase the expected New Year’s cake. Van Velsor was as important and necessary to the community in those days in the line of bread, biscuit, rusk and cakes, as McArthur was in ice-creams, charlotte russe and candies. Everything from either firm was made upon honor, and has never been surpassed in excellence. New Year’s Day was ushered in, as now, by much noise and clatter, the difference being in the kind of din and the methods used to produce it. Bells from every steeple and market-place rang the old year out and the new year in. Boys hooted and yelled in the streets and tin bugles, drums, fifes and jewsharps made a jingling jangle that was not altogether unpleasant. It was not an unusual thing to hear the sonorous voice of the town crier on New Year’s Eve as he rushed through the streets of the city in search of some lost child who had strayed from home to join the street urchins in making merry. This town crier was an original character, being a burly, kind-hearted negro. It was an impressive sight, especially to the children, to see him on his fleet-footed horse, galloping through the principal streets, ringing a good-sized bell as he came to a halt at various street corners. When silence was secured from the goodly crowd that sur- rounded him, he would chant in musical but monotonous cadence, “I have lost a little boy, five years old,” etc. He would generally find the little boy and bear him home in triumph on his stalwart nag. It was said that many a youngster delighted in getting lost, so that he might have a ride on the town crier’s horse. The preparations, more or less elaborate, that house- wives generally took pleasure in, were completed; so that on retiring for a few hours’ sleep, they thanked their stars that the cake was light and “done to a turn,” and the frost-BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 491 ing hardened but not too brittle. On these successful issues depended our ability to sleep, otherwise we must rise at dawn and proceed to redeem our failure of the day before. “Miss Leslie’s Cook-book” was the one par excellence most used in those days, and from its oft-studied pages so full of matchless recipes for delicious viands, the up-to-date housekeeper was seldom disappointed by disastrous results, if she followed the rules set forth. People ate more cake at this time than they have done in late years, and hostesses vied with each other in the making and baking of cake, which was considered an accomplish- ment. The well-known Misses Strong were noted for their fine cake-making. One of these young women married Samuel Pratt, another Henry M. Kinne, and a third married a Mr. Robinson and lived for years in a house still standing on the west side of Pearl Street, near Chippewa. Later Mrs. Robinson married E. G. Spaulding. When Mrs. Robinson set her table for New Year’s callers, the gentlemen coming from her house told wonderful stories about the superior black fruit cake, the excellent pound and sponge cake they were offered. There was much hurrying and scurrying to get one's house in order on New Year’s morn, the children arrayed in their best (for they were supposed to be seen and not heard), the fire lighted and stirred to send out a glowing and welcome heat, the table set in a corner of the parlor, the servant ready to wait upon the door; and last, but not least, the hostess must be attired in her finest silk gown before io a. m., that being the hour when callers commenced to arrive. From this hour until seven in the evening, there was scarcely an interval to eat one’s dinner. A sandwich and cup of tea or coffee ad libitum, were all there was time for. A few families, including the mayor’s, set prodigal tables on New Year’s day, but the most approved custom was to offer several kinds of cake, sherry and madeira wines, some- times port, often brandy. Whiskey was never considered a drawing-room drink. The original bottles were not in evidence, but handsome cut glass decanters contained the492 BUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. wines, and tiny slender-stemmed wine glasses were always used. How well I remember one group of merry men as they stood in my pleasant parlor at the corner of Eagle and Elli- cott streets, with wine glasses raised to wish me and mine a “Happy New Year.” They were the “four Charlies” as they were called; Charles Gold, Charles Peck, Charles Pickering and Charles Day. There was Joseph Stringer, Hamlet Scrantom, John Macy, Henry Hickox, Seth E. Sill and Carleton Sprague. Scores of others came singly, in pairs, quartettes and even greater numbers. One who has never lived in an atmosphere of sturdy friendships and dependent conditions such as those early times in young Buffalo brought about, can scarcely imagine the genial and cheerful merriment of our old-fashioned New Year's Day. Kindness and good will seemed to radiate from every eye and the grasp of those firm hands and the words of greeting from the lips and the hearts of those staunch men, have left an impress that makes my soul cry out. “Oh for a touch of a vanished hand And the sound of a voice that is still.” Sleighload after sleighload drove up to our modest door and a lively number would rush into the house and out again in most bewildering succession. As I look back over the years that have elapsed, I seem to hear the kindly wishes interspersed with the tinkling sleighbells outside and the crackling of the logs upon the hearth. Then there is the odor of the Christmas greens, the spruce and the hemlock over doors and windows, that blend with sweet sounds of the singers that often came unannounced to our house on New Year's evening, and before one was aware of their presence, “Sleep, Gentle Lady,” “Sparkling and Bright,” “The Chough and the Crow” and other beautiful glees would be sung just inside the front door. In the evening also, it was the custom to congregate at one another's houses for an informal dance. On some of these occasions Mr. Coppock, a well-known musician, would be at the piano while Mr. Poole played the flute. QuadrillesBUFFALO SOCIAL LIFE IN THE THIRTIES. 493 and waltzes were often arranged in this manner and were enjoyed immensely by the belles and beaux of long ago. Since those days of genial mirth and jovial friendships, the years have rolled by and from out the visions of the past I hear the “Happy New Year” of that long ago. As I walk over Buffalo’s snow-covered stones or under her wind-tossed trees, I feel the pressure of tightening hands of those who have gone before. May not sweet thoughts and heartfelt wishes come to us from out the realms of space and through the aisles of time ? Then, “A Happy New Year” to one and all. Yours with pleasant memories, Martha Fitch Poole.