Gornell University Library Dthara, Nem Pork CHARLES WILLIAM WASON COLLECTION CHINA AND THE CHINESE THE GIFT OF CHARLES WILLIAM WASON CLASS OF 1876 1918 ornell University Library John Chinaman at home :sketches of men, JOHN CHINAMAN AT HOME JOHN CHINAMAN AT HOME SKETCHES OF MEN, MANNERS AND THINGS IN CHINA BY THE REV. E. J. HARDY, M.A. CHAPLAIN TO H.B.M. FORCES AUTHOR oF “‘ HOW TO BE HAPPY THOUGH MARRIED” ILLUSTRATED NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER’S SONS 153-157 FIFTH AVENUE 1907 a le ss wree First Impression, 1905. Second Impression, 1906, Third Impression, 1907. [All rights reserved.] To SIR HENRY BLAKE, G.C.M.G., A FORMER JUST AND ENLIGHTENED GOVERNOR OF HONG KONG FROM WHOM AND FROM LADY BLAKE I RECEIVED MUCH INFORMATION AND KINDNESS, THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED. oy “Tf the time should ever come, as come it may, when the far-distant West comes into close and practical competition with the patient Chinese for the right to exist, one or other will be behindhand in the race, and it is safe to venture the’ prediction that it will not be the Chinese!”—Village Life i China, by Anruur H. Smits, D.D. “You are all too anxious to awake us and to start us on a new road, and you will do it; but you will all regret it, for, once awaked and started we shall go fast and far—farther than you think—much farther than you want!”—Wfn Hs1ane (a celebrated Prime Minister of China). ‘‘When China is moved it will change the face of the globe.” —Napouzon, at St. Helena. “To me they are the most remarkable race on earth, and I have always thought and still believe them to be the great coming rulers of the world.”—Lorp WoLSELEY. Preface HEN I went to China I had a great ambition. It was to gain the distinction of not writing a book on that country. I failed to do this because of the fascination of the subject, and my only excuse is that things Chinese are so many and so complicated that there is room for every independent inquirer and observer. Many Europeans live in China for years without learning anything of the habits and customs of the people. They tell you that these are ‘‘ beastly,” and that they take no interest in them. As for the ordinary globe-trotter, to him it may be said, in the words of the prophet Isaiah, ‘“ Thou seest many things but thou observest them not.” To take no interest, however, in a nation that was contemporary with ancient Egypt, Babylon, Nineveh, Greece and Rome, and that has staying power in it still, is stupid. Though stupid in other respects, I was not in this, for I heard, read, and observed everything I could about a people who are always peculiar though not always zealous of good works during the three years and a half when I was Chaplain to the Forces at Hong Kong, and when I was from time to time on leave of absence in China proper. The villages in the New Territory, where I often went on military manceuvres and field-days, taught me much. 9 10 PREFACE It was not necessary to solve the problem of China or to give advice to the Foreign Office, as that has been done by every writer who has spent two days in Hong Kong and one in Canton. Only the everyday Celestial things that interested and puzzled me when I first came out have been described. It is a book for unlearned visitors to China. I have not spoken of my work as Chaplain to the Forces, as this has been done in a former book—‘‘ Mr. Thomas Atkins.”’ Whatever is said of China—a country which is a hundred and four times larger than England—will probably be true only of some parts. ‘‘ Customs differ every tenth li,” and it would be impossible that a population as great as that of the whole of Europe should all act alike. To master the Chinese language thoroughly would require “a head of oak, lungs of brass, nerves of steel, a constitution of iron, the patience of Job, and the lifetime of Methuselah.” How clever of the Chinese to be able to speak to each other! I felt that unless Chinese were spoken in the other world it would be no good in my trying to learn it. But even those who know his language cannot get a China- man to explain. Ask him why a thing is so and so. He answers that it always has been that way, and if you are not satisfied he thinks that it is you and not he who is unreagon- able. Then the Chinese delight to astonish foreigners, and freely lie in order to do so. An inhabitant of Canton being told that the King of Great Britain was, on certain occasions, drawn in a carriage by eight cream-coloured horses, answered without a moment’s hesitation, ‘‘ China Emperor twenty- four!” Contents te CHAPTER I PAGE Hone Kone : , 5 ; : - 23 Meaning of the word and description—Population—No useless restrictions—The furthest sentry-box of the British Empire—A cosmopolitan Clapham Junction—‘ Green hills with sea scattered amongst them”—The Botanical Gardens—Birds and insects— Varied human beings—‘‘ Heard in the tram ’’—Climate—Cost of living—‘‘ Distended with food ”—Bathing parties—Some civilians nicer than others—Bachelor messes—Games—The races. OHAPTER II TienTSIN AND PEKING ‘ . ‘ ‘ . 33 Wei-hai-wei—From Taku Bar to Tientsin—Wanted his coolies—A kaleidoscopic picture of military movements—A plague of flies— Peking an old curiosity shop—Its walls—A screen against evil spirits—Like a park—The Lama monastery—The Temple of Confucius—Drowned in the streets—Civility—Street life—The Temple of Heaven—Pontifex Maximus—The Hall of Fasting—The Imperial and Forbidden Cities—Private apartments—The Summer Palace—Looting and worse—Northern and Southern Chinese. CHAPTER IIL CaNntToN , 3 3 4 = 3 - 44 A proposal of mazriage—Pawnshops—‘‘ Mr. Marco Polo ”— ‘Doctor temples "—The five genii—‘‘ The Temple of Horrors” 11 12 CONTENTS PAGE —Pagodas—The largest mint in the world—The water clock— The execution ground—The most unique sight in Canton— Prisons—The greatest centre of gambling in the world—Many kinds of workers— Signboards— Fati and Fatshan — Street merchants—Names of streets—The boat population—The White Mountains. CHAPTER IV On tHE West RIVER ; : s . 55 A bolt from the blue—Kong-Moon—How cold the tropics can be! Pirates—Dutch Folly—A silk country—Rafts—Lepers—Objects of interest—High-handed ladies—Soup and rats—Ducks—Tigers— Wuchow—A “‘ pencil pagoda ”—Cheating boats—A fire. CHAPTER V Swarow, Amoy, FoocHow . ‘ ‘ 3 . 68 A general resemblance between Chinese cities—Wall literature— Oysters—Mice steeped in honey—Pewter ware—People very civil —Country round Swatow—Thatched men—Amoy celebrated for its pigs, its graves, and its dirt—The Temple of Ten Thousand Rocks—Pailaus—The Min River resembles the Rhine—The “ Bridge of Ten Thousand Ages” — Soap-stone—Foochow a centre of missionary effort—Apology for a good house—Not luxury—A friend’s grave. CHAPTER VI Ur THe YANGTZE . ) ‘ . ‘ . 70 Shanghai the Paris of China—Chinkiang—Nanking—Vain repe- titions—Water-buffaloes—Kiukiang —A wedding celebration— Hankow, Han-Yang, and Wuchang—Between Hankow and Ichang—Cheap labour—Ichang gorges. CHAPTER VII VinwaGe Lire : : ; z 5 . 80 Each village self-sufficing—Drastic measures—Overcrowding— Thrifty husbandry—A Chinese village like matrimony—Lepers— Stay-at-homes—Markets—No roads—Idols punished—Schools— Respect for scholarship—Theatres. CONTENTS 13 CHAPTER VIII PAGE . . e e . 90 The unexpected happens—Chinese practices which we think absurd can be rationally explained. Torsy-TURVEYDOM CHAPTER IX -Some CHINESE CHARACTERISTICS . ‘i ‘ - 95 Fashion and custom differ with locality—What would the Chinese not do if they were unanimous ?—Fish-fights and cricket-fights— The braying of a donkey stopped—The Chinaman’s expression, his patience, his ability to sleep, his materialism, his integrity, his dirt—Chinese proverbial philosophy—Natural orators—Conjuring —Men ‘of resource—Two impressive things—Harly inventions— Why do the Chinese not know more ?—Great at organising— Guilds of beggars and thieves—Gambling propensities—Privacy not respected—A debtor and credit account with Heaven—Want of sympathy—Loss of face—Resemblance between the Chinese and the English. CHAPTER X CuinesE Foop . - Z P F . 107 What a Chinaman does not eat is not worth eating—‘‘ That belong cocky-loachee”’—‘‘ With soy sauce anything will go down” —Flowers eaten as vegetables—Woman’s milk sold for aged persons—Eggs one hundred years old—Hating one’s walking- stick—Kippered rats—Even house rats are eaten—Cat and snake restaurants—An overrated dish—A coolie can revel on twopence a day — Method of eating—Filial gruel — Invitations — Chinese hospitality—The attack begun again—Two good soups—Curious dishes—Gratitude for repletion. CHAPTER XI MEDICINE AND SURGERY . , i 7 . 119 Chinese medicine horrible—They cure, however, the man who is fated not to die—A recipe for ophthalmia—Large doses—A sort of multum in parvo—Dosed to death—A Chinaman loves free medicines—‘“‘It is his pig”-—‘‘ A little dragon inside me”— Transforming medicines—To give courage — Blood bread — “Dragon’s clothes”—An old remedy—The doctor’s shop—A saying of Confucius—Pulses—Due proportions—Three classes of doctors—Payment by results—Simples—Acupuncture—Too patient—Jokes against doctors—Superstitious remedieg. 14 CONTENTS CHAPTER XII \ PAGE Cuinese CLOTHES . é r f ‘ . 130 Many changes of raiment required—Prince Chen—Special clothes for every important occasion—Chinese clothes are in many respects better than ours—Ladies, like insects, should wear bright colours—Colours not thought to kill each other—Official distinctions—A mandarin’s answer—Fans—Pockets—Boots and shoes—Hair-dressing—Ornaments and paint—Dress of the poor —A Chinaman’s toile-—The queue—Beards. CHAPTER XIII Houses AND GARDENS 3 : < ‘ . 138 The height of impertinence—A patriarchal encampment—In harmony with surroundings—Inside « house—No concealment— Houses as uncomfortable morally as they are physically—Chang Kung—Chinese inns—Houseboats—The Yamen—No repairs— A potter’s field—Landscape gardening—The flower hermit— Floral calendars. CHAPTER XIV SERVANTS AND LABOURERS . ‘ i a . 147 Why do we call a male servant ‘‘boy’??—Chinese servants conservative—In chronic indecision— Dirty cooks —Ingenious ones—Zeal without knowledge—Wages—To bury a father or catchee a wife—Peculations limited—Faithful servants—Never surprised—Pidgin English—Best servants in the North—Thought- readers—Cheap labour—Not ashamed of poor relations—A human hen—‘'The Amah Brigade ’” — Co-operation — Pull-man-cars— The 16th Lancers, CHAPTER XV BerrotHaL anD MarriacE , - 3 . 157 The most important of life’s duties—Wives married, concubines loved—The go-between—Presents interchanged—Betrothed from birth—Married to a tablei—The wedding ceremony—Teasing the bride—Parents-in-law must be remembered—“ Sifting four eyes ” : —Pretended reluctance—Mother-in-lawed—The seven reasons for divorce—A paradox—Thought disgraceful for widows to marry. 3 CONTENTS 15 CHAPTER XVI PAGE ‘ . . 167 Death and social position—No help given to the dying—More light—* The devil who follows "—Like an Irish wake—Sacerdotal ventriloquism—The first lifting of the coffin—A “ white affair ”— When at the point of death Chinese put on their best clothes—One reason why Chinese coffins are so large—A ‘‘ charming retreat” —A favourite present—Uncomfortable graves—A mandarin makes sure of a lucky tomb—“ Blood burial ”—‘* Won’t even leave his carcase ’’—‘‘ Buying the water ”"—A hint—Flat beer. Dears anp Burin CHAPTER XVII Mournine . s ‘ ‘ ‘ - . 176 Noisy grief—A ‘longevity picture ’—‘‘ Weeping tears of blood” “ Cloths to cry with”’—In “dutiful grief ’’—Mourning for parents —Expense of funerals—On the death of the Emperor—Confucius on the obligation of mourners—The duty of an eldest son. CHAPTER XVIII Boys In CHINA ‘ . . ‘ : . 181 A proverb—Nothing so unfilial as to have no children—A boy is petted and indulged for not being a girl—He gets a ‘‘milk name” and several other kinds of names—Boys sometimes dressed as girls or as Buddhist priests — Games — Bird’s nests not robbed—Betting on flies and oranges—Boys work too much and too young—First day at school—‘‘ Backing a lesson ’—Mere memory-boxes — Writing — Long hours —Severity—Answer of Mencius—Anecdote of—The trimetrical classic—Another school- book—Filial service—The cap of manhood—Parental power— What will the boy be? CHAPTER XIX Girts AND WoMEN. 3 : . : . 190 Girls do not count—Why boys are more valued—‘‘Girls may not be drowned here ’’—Presents at the birth of children—A “rearing marriage ”—‘ She is his wife”—Cruelty to child brides—Girls sold cheaply—Sometimes a girl is only pawned—Hoped to be born a dog—A scandal from which China is free—Hasily pleased —Small feet—‘‘ What medicine am I to give them ?”’—The Ying 16 CONTENTS and the Yang principles—Only a “ side issue ””—A ‘‘ Never-to-be- married” sisterhood—A terrible sin—Concubines or ‘‘little wives”’ —The volubility of tongues—He had never chastised his wife— Advice to girls—‘‘ That tallest devil!” CHAPTER XX Epucartion In CHINA a : ‘ : . 200 Germ of competitive examinations in China—The exceptions to those who can compete—Respect for learning—An examination enclosure—Severity of competition—Honours for those who succeed—The examiners “‘ wash their hearts ””—Pons asinorum— The last made first—Cheating—Tracts distributed by the charitable tich—A noble maxim—Parables and novels with a purpose—Chess —An elegant present—Reverence the characters—Lettered-paper societies—Large books—Penny dreadfuls—Ignorance in excelsis— Western knowledge—Christianity wanted. CHAPTER XXI CuHInESE MANNERS . . H ‘ ; . 213 Polished and punctilious—Would the Sermon on the Mount have had a similar effect?—Let your movements be graceful and deliberate ”’—‘‘ Short measure ”—‘‘ Politeness before force ””—Easy to be rude—“ Little bit lie pidgin”—Salutations—A formal call —‘ Neither boast nor grumble ”—Tea-drinking—“ Go slowly ”»— Foot-binding—“‘ She more quiet ’—Uncut nails—Polite attention —Friendly interesi—Pose and attitude—In honour preferring one another ’—A missionary’s mistake, CHAPTER XXII Tar GOVERNMENT OF CHINA ‘ b . . 220 The “Son of Heaven”—His allowances—Yang Kuo—Chung’s flesh-screen—A college of censors—A sensible arrangement— Boards —Circumlocution— The theory of responsibility — The squeeze system— Public appreciation Peacock’s feathers — Mandarins, how distinguished—Bled by vultures—On the opium couch—Pay, pay, pay!—‘ Bring me an honest man”—A large and dilapidated house—‘‘He is neglecting his duty *—‘The vermilion pencil ”*—How rank is shown. CONTENTS 17 CHAPTER XXIII PAGE PUNISHMENTS ‘5 : 3 2 . 229 Theory and practice—Convenient vagueness—‘ Searchers ”—The ideal of an emperor—A Chinese court of ‘ justice ’—Inducements to confession—Ingenious tortures—‘ Will the foreign devil not give me some opium?”’—Tenacity of life—An experience—An execution—The Cangue—Have all Chinese nerves ?—Hells—A female Nero—Reports on himself—Linchi—Punishments ordered but not always enforced. CHAPTER XXIV CHINESE SoLDIERS . ‘ : : 940 Extract from the Ping Fa—The army in @ transition state— “ Braves "—Pay of soldiers—Tricks and tactics—Qualities of a good soldier—A military reform board—Coal-dust for gunpowder —The army awakening—A visit to a barrack—The weak part of the army—A military renaissance. CHAPTER XXV Tur RELIGIONS OF CHINA . : i < . 250 Polite to possibilities—Some answers of Confucius—Miracles of good government—'‘ Heaven” was much to the philosopher— Paid attention to the details of life—Laid no claim to originality —Cautious and conscientious—The keystone of the system— Senselessly overestimated—‘* Those who Know do not tell; those who tell do not know ”—Self-emptiness—“ Pills of immortality” —Doctrine of inaction—Darwin anticipated—We must be born again—The ‘' Three Precious Ones.” CHAPTER XXVI FENGSHUI AND OTHER SUPERSTITIONS ‘ . . 262 Hard to grasp—The two currents—Geometric superstitions no longer cope with financial considerations—A missionary’s answer —From a fengshui point of view—The green dragon and the white tiger—What are pagodas?—The geomancer—The almanack— Sellers-of-lies—Palmists, spirit-mediums, and other humbugs— Planchettes—The phrenologist’s answer—Superstitions connected with birth, marriage, and death—Locked to life. 2 18 CONTENTS CHAPTER XXVII PAGE Spirits 5 ‘i ; : : 2 . 271 Fly only in straight lines—A haunted house—A service of exorcism—Fighting fiends with fire-crackers—Foolish fears— Suicide—Prophylacties—Charms—Timidity ‘of spirits—A cash sword—Propitiating evil spirits—In the hour of death—Three souls —Punishment of dishonest priests—‘The Universal Rescue” east—View of the intellectual capacity of spirits. CHAPTER XXVIII OvutsipE AND InsipE A TEMPLE . F - . 279 The buildings of a temple—A holy show—A confused idea—The dust of ages—A mixture of fear and fun—The soul of an idol— ‘¢ Silks, porcelains, and fancy gods ”"—Use of a temple—The first thing done—What is prayed for—Opium given—Tears of blood— Patrons of vice—Animals worshipped—Also stocks and stones— What meant by worship—Few services in temples—Not an easy chair—Religious processions—Dragon boat and other festivals— Trying to cheat God. CHAPTER XXIX Monks AND PRIESTS a ‘ - ‘ . 293 A contemptuous toleration—Good beggars—Roast duck for supper —A‘‘purgatory pick-purse” traffic—A bank for the spirit-world—A hint to Western clergymen—Hcclesiastical vestments—‘ Bald- headed asses ”’—‘“‘ Buddha is such a kind god "'—Vain repetitions —Praying-wheels and circulating libraries—No thought—Relaxa- tions—‘ Need not buy rice’’—‘‘ Let-live societies "—A monastery described—Nunneries, CHAPTER XXX New Year’s Day In Carina . ; . . 800 A capon’s destiny—Kites—The opening of the seals—New Year’s wishes—Frightened by their faces—Decorations—The birthday of every one—Official and other devotions—No one has an empty mouth—Cathedral music—Gifts—Ladies break away from the monotony of their lives—Resolutions made—Words of good omen. CONTENTS 19 CHAPTER XXXI PAGH ; ; . 3808 Without authority and without preparation—The selection of missionaries—Objections answered—Testimony of Chinese them- selves—Method of work—Humanising as well as proselytising— Unpaid commercial travellers—China perfectly tolerant—Mission- aries easy to attack—Even medical missions misunderstood— _Curious questions—The ideal missionary—A ‘‘ London Christian ” —Missionaries are not such fools as they look. MISSIONARIES é ‘ CHAPTER XXXII As THE CHINESE SEE Us . é 2 5 . 821 ‘‘Foreign devils are very singular ’’—‘ Just like monkeys”— «“That’s the devil’s house ’’—A foreigner is always suspected—A bare skin as a mark of respect—Our European odour—Foreign smoke and foreign dirt—The want of religion of foreigners— ‘Exceeding strange’—The Platonic intermingling of sexes not understood—‘‘ And she hag manners too”—Morbid unrest— Curious rather than useful. List of Illustrations IN A CHINESE STREET KOWLOON . SOUTH GATE, PEKING LOO-MAN-TZE STREET, PEKING . TEMPLE OF HEAVEN, PEKING A LESS IMPORTANT STREET, PEKING CANTON . . FIVE HUNDRED GENII THE TEMPLE OF HORRORS A GORGE . APPROACH TO A MONASTERY AMOY . . FOOCHOW . . WHEELBARROW PEOPLE WATER BUFFALO A MULE LITTER. ACTORS . . BRIDGE AT PEKING . Frontispiece Facing p. 23 ” ” 36 39 40 42 44 45 46 58 62 66 68 71 83 85 87 99 \ 22 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS A MANDARIN’S WIFE IN FULL UNIFORM . Facing p. 132 RECEPTION-ROOM IN A YAMEN-. , is 144 CHAIR COOLIES AND MARKET COOLIES. ‘ 153 A WEDDING CHAIR . ; F F i 159 CHINESE BRIDE’S VEIL ‘ : nf 163 STREET BOYS . ‘ ‘ ‘ - ) 183 SMALL-FOOTED MAIDENS . ‘ ‘ 5 194 ENTRANCE TO A PROVINCIAL EXAMINATION HALL 5 201 PART OF IMPERIAL PALACE, PEKING . ‘ » 220 AN AUDIENCE HALL, PEKING a ‘ ‘o 228 A CHINESE COURT ‘ 3 i 3 9 230 JAIL BIRDS IN CAGES . ‘ : 5 - 232 CHINESE SOLDIERS—OLD STYLE . F * 240 THE ALTAR OF HEAVEN, PEKING . ‘ si) 250 A PAGODA . . . . . 95 265 A TEMPLE ‘ . 5 F ‘ 9 279 A TEMPLE ‘ a ‘ ‘