NY \\ WY RNY NN \ AY \ \\ UK a AW \' AY \«\ NY \\ \ SS Cornell Mniversity Library THE GIFT OF r » Prefpaber. &.8. Dov ae Ria anca tice uae e i verea ix tib 2041 Cornell University Library SB 472.C92 ‘Wil scape gardening :the impor ANAT THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR TO Joseph Meehan EMINENT HORTICULTURIST ADVISER AND FRIEND JOSEPH MEEHAN SAA er ve an 8 E> Ge oe 1 1 Ne ae eae AO SOs | | EB peed ‘ Nee) G8) Sree Z ( Practical Landscape ~ Gardening THE IMPORTANCE OF CAREFUL PLANNING LOCATING THE HOUSE—ARRANGEMENT OF WALKS AND DRIVES—CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES—LAWNS AND TERRACES—HOW TO PLANT A PROPERTY LAYING OUT A FLOWER GARDEN—ARCHI- TECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN ROSE GARDENS AND HARDY BORDERS WILD GARDENS AND ROCK GARDENS PLANTING PLANS AND PLANTING LISTS BY ROBERT B. CRIDLAND New York A. T. DeLA Mare PRINTING AND PUBLISHING Co. LTD. 1916 rb 7 bc TM TCT | TTT TTT TTT Copyright, 1916, by A. T. De La Mare Printinc anp Pusiisuine Co. Lrp All rights reserved FOREWORD This book is the outcome of a series of articles on Landscape Gardening which appeared periodically in THe Fiorists’ ExcHance. At the suggestion of the publisher these articles have been aug- mented, new subjects added, and the whole more thoroughly illustrated than was possible in the limited space of a magazine treatise. The book is designed to appeal, in particular, to that large body of sub- urban home owners who have moderate sized properties susceptible of artistic arrangement and beautification. It is not possible for the majority of men and women to give a sufficient amount of time to the study of design, horticulture and gardening, in order to treat their individual properties mm a practical and artistic manner, and although nearly every one possesses the sense of taste to the extent of appreciating the difference between that which is pleasing and that which is crude or grotesque in the com- pleted subject, very few have the time, imagination and constructive power necessary to formulate a design which will represent fully the capabilities of their own grounds, whether it be a small plot or an estate of some acres. To assist all who are interested in the artistic development of their home surroundings it has been the author’s aim in this book to set forth, in a clear and logical way, the basic principles which will bring about the most desirable environment, from a gardening standpoint, of the moderate sized city Jot or the suburban estate, however limited that may be. 4 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING The text has been made as brief as possible to give more space than usual to photographic illustrations, sketches and plans, so that each subject treated may be more readily understood and applied. Long lists of trees, shrubs, and flowers have been omitted, except in those instances where planting plans are shown, accompanied by planting keys. In preparing these planting keys the type of plant necessary to secure the best effect has been considered, rather than individual varieties, and these keys are therefore subject to modification so as to suit existing conditions. While the initial intention of the articles was to assist those engaged in gardening as a business, it is the desire of the author that all who take pleasure in the art of gardening may find in this book some additional incentive to attain that which is beautiful m landscape design. I wish to gratefully acknowledge the valuable assistance rendered by Mr. Stanley V. Wilcox and Mr. A. T. De La Mare in the arrangement of this book. Ropert B. Cripianp. Philadelphia, May 9, 1916. CONTENTS (For Classified Index See Pages 265 266) CHAPTER I IMPORTANCE OF CAREFUL PLANNING Greater Enjoyment of Our Surroundings—Expression of Taste and Personality—Enjoyment of Others—Uplift to the Community—Economy of Execution—The Plan—The Grading Plan—The Planting Plan. CHAPTER II LoOcATING THE HoUSE—E XPOSURE CHAPTER III ARRANGEMENT OF WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES CHAPTER IV CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES Cement Walks—Macadam Walks—Red Gravel Walks—Flagstone Walks—Brick Walks—Stepping Stone Walks—Terrace Walks—Dutch Tile Walks—Driveways of Cement—Waterbound Macadam—Bituminous Roads— Cement Surfacing—Cement Approaches—Gutters—Cement Gutters—Rubble Gutters—Brick Gutters—Sod Gutters—Care of Sod Gutters—Catch Basins— Gratings—Connecting Catch Basins with Drainage Lines. CHAPTER V Lawns: GRADING, CONSTRUCTION AND UPKEEP Preliminary Preparations—Lawns Ascending from Highways—,Lawns Descending from Highways—Sub-Grade—Underdrainage—Lawn Grading— Larger Areas—House Below Pavement Grade—Terraces—Lawn Making— Sodding—Seeding—Grass Seeds. CHAPTER VI ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS The Background for the House—Framing the House—Trees for Framing the House—Base Plantings—What to Avoid in Base Plantings—Plants for Base Plantings (Shrubs)—Plants for Base Plantings (Broad-leaved Ever- greens)—Unity in Lawn Plantings—Planting for Detail—Avoid Straight Lines—Avoid Rows of Trees Along Curved Driveways—Lines of Trees for Straight Driveways—Specimen Lawn Trees—Lawn Groupings—Planting in Lawn Depressions—Planting in Valleys—Boundary Plantings—Variety in Border Plantings—Edging the Border Plantings—Evergreens in Border Plantings—Specimen Trees in Front of Border Plantings—Avoid Odd Shaped Beds in Lawn Center—Ornamental Planting on the Farm—Summary-—- Tree Planting—Pruning—Tree Planting with Dynamite—Moving Large Trees—Root Pruning—Care of Trees and Shrubs—Insect Pests. 6 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING CHAPTER VII THe FLOWER GARDEN Classification of Gardens—Garden Dimensions and Design—Garden Entrance—Garden Background—Garden Enclosures—Height of Garden Enclosures—Garden Walls—Gray Sandstone Walls—Coping—Brick Walls— The Stucco Wall—Dry Stone Walls—Hedges—Retaining Walls—Garden Steps—Piers—Walks and Beds—Width of Walks—Materials for Walks—Turf Walks—Brick Walks—Red Gravel—Stepping Stones—Flagstones—Slate— Tanbark—Borders—Garden Beds, Width—Preparing Garden Beds—Humus— Floral Treatment—Bulbs—Annuals—Hardy Shrubs—Evergreens— Treatment of Gardens Constructed on More than One Level—Planting Around Garden Enclosures—Water in the Garden. CHAPTER VIII ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN Sundials—Bird Baths—Fountains and Pools—Depth—Construction— Pool Coping—Water Supply and Drainage—Garden Pools with Fountain Heads—Planting Near Garden Pools—Plants in the Pool—The Plants— Fish—Swimming Pools—Water Supply—Garden Seats—Garden Houses— Pergolas—Floors—Color of Wooden Garden Features. CHAPTER IX Harpy BorDERS AND ROSE GARDENS Perennial Borders—Location of Hardy Borders—Avoid Borders Next to a Hedge—Turf Edge for Beds—Borders Along a Fence—Borders in the Vegetable Garden—Width of Borders—Preparation of Beds—Time to Plant—Summer Care—Arrangement of Plants in Hardy Borders—Border Beds Should not be Graduated Evenly as to Height—Back ground for Borders— Rose Chains in Perennial Borders—Arches Over Walks—Planting in Clumps— Bulbs and Tubers—Spring Bulbs—Summer Flowering Bulbs—Autumn Bulbs—Annuals in the Borders—Rose Gardens—Rose Garden Designs— Position—Beds—Preparation of Beds—Planting and Care—Varieties— Climbing Roses. CHAPTER X WILD GARDENS The Wild Garden as an Isolated Feature—Walks—Beds—Planting in the Wild Garden—Flowers in the Wild Garden—Rock Gardens—Garden Locations—Placing of Rocks—Soil—Arrangement of Plants—Moisture Important—Garden Steps with Pockets for Plants—Time of Planting— Shrubs in Rock Gardens—Evergreens in the Rock Garden—The Heathers. CHAPTER XI PLANTING PLANS AND PLANTING KEys GLossARY OF TECHNICAL TERMS ILLUSTRATIONS AND PLANS Approach, Construction of a Cement............0. 00 ccc eee eee eens 59 Approaches. See Entrance Arrangements. Ash; American. Fraxinus americana ..........0...00ssecesveevewsneeen 97 Backaviardablan ting aaccwcnrs attest tok cusiys Vea ae ree eet eoeleerene ieee 209 IBasesblantin eon. mmeteatn tates aes neti oe © cod atte en ee eae 86, 87, 88, 89 Birch, White (Betula alba laciniata pendula)................-.000 0000) 100 Bic BBs thigh ete tear merge oe os ears yes e kts er arie cu ey REA ba pale tree, asics 174 Border and Boundary Plantings. .92, 94, 95, 103, 104, 105, 107, 108, 110, 196, 199, 200, 201, 202, 203, 206, 207, 208, 212 BrickiGardens Wall seeeswsy ete none. cc ce: cure) serge See Rees contre 141 Bric kag Wall lcs eeprayeer tne orc te norrentn ee eegteys bees onynr eee ares.) Mae Rt waren Re 53, 54 GalcheBasins yeesteton enna eo tara ire tctetnsencuaicrraamets cusls stair ecueainc mre eee 63 Cedar. Deodara:(Gedrus?Deodarayin.. sc chica disdacs nace hae eevee owes 98 Gedrela\, Whe) (Cedrelasinensis)/i, sive sae. ole vied das nonce wee cee a 83 Cement Walks, Construction of............0 000 cece cence een eee 49, 50 Chrysanthemums, Hardy, in a Border Along the Wall.................. 199 Construction Details of the Garden. See Garden Construction. Construction of Lawns. See Lawn Grading. Dogwood Pink lowering yh. cere nas canes Fan aeaks Get oad Gea hae oe 13 Drive and Walk Entrances. See Entrance Arrangements. Driveways, Construction of......... 00.00.00 c eee eee 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62 DryaWalli Gardening irr once) ch terse aa rea OR e e Nee a Oig Bs 225 Entrance Arrangements... .30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46 Barmelblan tin gst sates torte c ii cccuee ancients neater ae atest cee es 111, 112 Hilagstones Wielka tres Naren enn forensic ne tessa span spiel cesses see iese oaenees 51 Flower Garden, The... .125, 127, 131, 134, 136, 137, 139, 141, 145, 147, 152, 153, 154, 157, 158, 160, 161, 164, 165, 168 HountaintandyRoolh ames naan -ceromce canes a cise ete wats aeieee a ace eros: veugenn 175 Garden, Construction Details of the... .139, 141, 142, 145, 148, 150, 151, 157, 158 Garden Entrance.......... Bye Ta eR eR NACI eae ee ES 192, 193 (GanrdengHouse sect herrea seas cna dood meee gloss anes ae hae 185, 186, 187, 195 (Garden MROckeree teat tern te titeisr seiner trae eaters cite fH oe tind aL TEAS 229 Gardening) nyeWall epee ye aro ne stearate tense ce cae aansch BS Reus arene 225 Garden on Three Levels, Sketch of...........000 000 cee eee teens 166 Gardenehercolamrn sar astcn Narn ates cates Sree hice dos ateecuaa eer eode 189, 190, 191 (Gar densScatonee resi es eee esd ees erences lara reson cvonet tens cee atedu 182, 183, 184 (Gardens Ste psimerm es ermine ra tra earn mane ace ene ss cue Sens nie 148, 227, 228 Garden, The Flower. See Flower Garden. GardenyPoolStesnrnic toes teen ae econ W RCE: ears 176, 177 Garden) Walls; Construction (Of... .casecis6 cen oon Cae eee oes ols kee 150, 151 (Garden mWil cages ere teeee kegs Mate race parse wea races kena aye ends 220, 223, 224 Ginkgo or Maidenhair Tree (Salisburia adiantifolia)..................0. 81 Grading of Lawns. See Lawn Grading. (Gutters Constructions. yeaa erecta ey ha gies aisel tial ales, sets, Sagters esse) sre 60, 61 Harmony Acotud y Ingeciacescwen cae ack Cok oie eee tise des scleine ees were 17 8 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Page Hollyhocks in a Border Planting............ 000.0 c eee eee eee ees 207 House, Framing thes... 0.020 cer nephew ete eel eae nao 78 House, The Best Exposure for, in Relation to the Sun.................. 21 House, The, Various Studies in Locating on a Small Lot... .19, 22, 23, ae a Landscape Development, In its First Stage of.............. 0002 ee ees 16 Larch, The European (Larix europea)... ........0 0600s eee eee 82 TA WwneGro UpineStrc.cos aco e cee eR ee eo een ter ete Seed renae uae 94, 95 Lawn, Specimen Trees for the. See Trees, Specimen, etc. Lawns, (Grading Of; 20. sc2 yeaknciy amore yc ue 64, 66, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77 Locating a House on a Small Lot. See House, The Various Studies i in, etc. Macadam Driveways, Construction of............0 0.00 e cece 57, 58 Macadarits Walls: 2a) aon mere ce ie ree erste erat Sa noe ener reece nar aan ogee hte 49 IMG wimg MPRECS 10h 27 wcrc ee ema te eee ee oe eee einen re 121 Oak>Pina(Quercus: palustris) oicec nue demvasoecse aa ete ce ie 96 Ornamental’ Plantings: Macs. sce eh cone eles 78, 79, 80, 86, 87, ‘88, 89 Perennial*Bordersxyre enn eis eo een ee per es 200, 201, 202 Rersola Gardens cere nesa a mee ut tena tee is ale eeeae 189, 190, oe Personal Note in the Design (Lombardy Poplars).................-.++- Phlox,, Hardy, in’ a’ Border Planting... ib.0:e ce nes cas andes nce eee a5 Planning; A Result of Careful. 3.4... cola een oe ee ee a ee te ee 14 Planting for Ornamental Purposes. See Ornamental Plantings. Planting for Unity, Detail and Effect.............. 85, 86, 87, 95, 104, 113 Planting Plans and Keys... .95, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 134, 135, 167, 168, 169, 214, 215; 232 to 263 Planting Trees. See Tree Planting. Plantings, Base. See Base Plantings. POOlS WGarcdemiten sy at tece acdsee AeA See ESO eee ere 176, ne Poplars, Lombardy Rear Yard ‘Artistically. Planted\. ¢ 25. .iteenchaec tuners ote ates ean ieee ate 200 ROCK Ga rdenian nt ncaa Wiccan ate tiny nti REMC a el ces Caen eRe ee Rar Eee 229 IRGSEEAT CHES er new Meer e ee pace ie Ee eee re eee 218 Rose?GardenpAvDesigniforssatar cee eae Sone eee a Late eae 214, 215 Rose Garden on an Ascending Grade............ 000 cece ee eee ee 217 lates Wialkssncgs oa, 0 ccse etc Sehwenan itremyaeae aee meen es asuen ene eer ete Te 52 Spruce, Koster’s Blue (Picea pungens Kosteriana)...................05 99 Standpipe for Garden Pool Overflow and Drainage..................... 178 Stepsy Gancderimennses sre akan more ea btseer ea ene one amon otrns .... 148, 227, 228 StONG Walle ianayee cen ie ass sear can Gena) Sect ge Wee Rote en, non rd Seely cera 55 Seucco, Wallon aan? cn tiden ENA aRaa Tree 7 0a Mion NORE wee eg 142 S Wining APO les wee tae oe kone ante eee ee mre ae oy eet eaere ran rete ere 180 erbace | Walks. vt nc an ae oa ee 5 Wee es Ge ce. ee de 56 Werraces, Grading Often aehan cet acce erate ered ee ee ee 69, 71, 73 Tree Moving Stauslesur a eile Peahetny catia Dua aoc ees CE Teter an ee Rei cme Me het tee te eat 121 Trees, Specimen, for the Lawn.............. 81, 82, 83, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100 Vegetable and Flower Garden.............. Gh elehc UES apes ct torte wea 136 Vegetable Garden on an Old Farm Property.................. 00000 eeu 113 mre Pla mit meee eats eereee tebe ee ea ce et en rere tone ee 116, 117, 118 Mista\ Mstablishinig vata emacs sors on tee terry at eore teeter 11 Walk and Drive Entrances. See Entrance Arrangements. Walk, Dominant Main, with Smaller Service Walk Somewhat Removed... 28 Walks. (Construction of....5 ) se see ae 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56 Walls: Construction of, 150, 151; Dry Stone, 226; Brick, 141; Stucco, 142; Retaining, 145, 158. WildeGardenvod he: cuin.cla pices ae cena tare ene eet ae emer 220, 223, 224 Ward [Planting astern cee ee ORO Ue eee ener ae 209 IMPORTANCE OF CAREFUL PLANNING 9 CHAPTER I IMPORTANCE OF CAREFUL PLANNING How very seldom it is that the home builder gives the same thought and consideration to his outdoor home surroundings that he gives to the interior of his home! Do we not enter a man’s home the moment we set foot on the property, and not, as generally ac- cepted, when we cross the threshold ? There are many important reasons for the careful planning of the home grounds and I would lay particular stress on these: The greater enjoyment of our surroundings; The expression of taste and personality; The enjoyment of others; The uplift of the com- munity; The economy or execution. GREATER ENJOYMENT OF OUR SURROUNDINGS To get the greatest amount of enjoyment out of our home sur- roundings from a purely practical standpoint the drives, the walks and other utilitarian features should be carefully planned in their relation to the house. Much thought should also be given to the location and arrangement of the garage, stable, chicken houses, and other buildings apart from the main house. From an esthetic standpoint an even greater amount of thought should be given to the accentuating, through the correct framing of any architectural features of the house (Fig. 1); to screening out unsightly views; to the establishing of vistas; and to the locating and planting of the gardens. Every tree and shrub, every plant and plantation, should bear a definite relation, one to the other, in the general scheme. EXPRESSION OF TASTE AND PERSONALITY It is a very welcome thought that, as yet, the taste and refine- ment of the average home builder is not judged entirely by the exterior arrangement and adornment of his property. It is only when it is brought to his attention through some striking incident that the average man is brought to the realization that, to the ma- 10 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING jority of his fellows, the exterior appointments of the home stand for what he himself is. If these be cheap and tawdry he is judged to his prejudice, but if the arrangement is orderly and artistic he is credited accordingly. It is essential, therefore, that our exterior surroundings reflect us truly. No matter how small the space, it is possible to beau- tify it. Among all the arts of design none is so varied in its appli- cation as that pertaining to landscape gardening. Every subject has surroundings which influence the treatment best suited to its needs; it may be the configuration of the ground, or the presence of Nature’s gifts of woodland and water; it may be unattractive nearby scenes, or beautiful distant views; often, lacking all, we must create scenes within the boundaries. The personal note continually enters into the design (Fig. 2). Some lean toward an arrangement that is stiff and formal, others to the flowing and graceful; some are partial to evergreens, others to deciduous trees and shrubs. In the floral adornment much oppor- tunity is given for individual taste in the arrangement, the color scheme, and the seasons of bloom. ENJOYMENT OF OTHERS This is an unselfish reason for more careful planning and worthy of mention from that standpoint alone. Have some thought for your neighbor and the passerby. Surely such an opportunity is not to be overlooked, for of all pleasures none is to be compared with that which brings joy to the heart of others. The owner who plans, builds and cultivates beautiful things is a benefactor, and in no channel of thought or activity is there greater or more satisfying response than in the creation of the beautiful in landscape design (Fig. 3), showing a well placed flowering specimen. UPLIFT TO THE COMMUNITY Nothing is so conducive to general carelessness, slovenliness and neglect as ill kept, unkempt and untidy exteriors. Likewise, nothing is more elevating and uplifting to a community than well arranged, artistic properties (Fig. 4) with well kept lawns and gar- dens. The effect of such surroundings is magical in its influence, and creates an insistent desire in others for the equal possession of that which is pleasing and beautiful. Figs. 5 and 6 show property before and after planting, from same point of view. THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING II ESTABLISHING A VISTA Fig. 1.—Well planned exteriors add greatly to the enjoyment of our surroundings. This planting arrangement emphasizes the bay window on the stairway.—See page 9 12 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDEN THE PERSONAL NOTE IN THE DESIGN Fig. 2.—Lombardy Poplars. In the landscape treatment there is a wide choice of materia to suit the individual taste.—See pages 10 and 84 THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING 13 PINK FLOWERING DOGWOOD Fig. 3.—There is a great and satisfactory response to be secured through the cultivation of beautiful trees.—See pages 10 and 84 14 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING A RESULT OF CAREFUL PLANNING Fig. 4.—The residence here illustrated is an example of the good results to be obtained from careful planning,—See page 10 THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING 15 Every house in a community should contribute toward the en- joyment of the inhabitants thereof, in some little artistic excellence, and it is inexplainable why we have so many heterogeneous, unattrac- tive and commonplace properties in communities otherwise refined and cultured. Lack of foresight in the planning is usually the cause. It is important, therefore, that not only individuals, but communities in general plan carefully for the house surroundings. ECONOMY OF EXECUTION From a purely practical and financial standpoint much can be said of the importance of careful planning. Landscape work at- tempted without the most careful consideration of all the details is never very satisfactory and usually entails large additional expen- ditures for omissions and revisions. In the planning of landscape work the floral adornment is really only one of the many features which must be considered. To make the most of our opportunities, and to solve easily questions of proper grading and draining, the planning for landscape features should start with the locating of - the house. From this point, questions of walk and drive arrangement, walk and drive construction, lawn grading and making, drainage, the garden and the garden details, should all be taken up in order. It is only when we have a preconceived and specific plan combining all these elements that the landscape work can proceed in an orderly and economical manner. THE PLAN The plan represents the conception of the designer committed to paper in a specific and comprehensive manner. : Any development, to be worth while, should be studied in the plan before attempting to execute the work on the ground. In landscape work it is usually advisable to have two general plans—the grading plan and the planting plan. THE GRADING PLAN The grading plan is the essential beginning of the landscape design; the foundation on which the picture we desire to create will be realized. It shows the location and arrangement of all the prac- tical and utilitarian features. It provides for the walks and drives | 28ed sag¢—-ueld paataouozaid & y31M vouepsoooe ut paoe[d useq sey 4903s 91391] oWIOS pue pajatdwiod st Burpess ay], “3994 00Z ¥ 0OZ IMoge 10] ¥ Uo st souepiser sIYJ—"¢ “BLY “LNAIWdOTAAAC AdMVOSGNV AO ADVIS LSU SLI NI THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING 17 A STUDY IN HARMONY Fig. 6.—Well arranged, artistic properties are an uplift to the community. The building 4s the same as that shown on page 16.—See page 10 18 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING and gives the established grades for the same. It shows in a con- crete form the scheme devised for the grading and lawn making, the proper preparation of all portions on which turf is wanted. The gardens are located, grades established, enclosures and architectural features, such as fountains and pools, provided for. Questions of drainage are carefully considered and taken care of; also the water supply for lawns, gardens, fountains and pools. In fact, all the physical features are provided for and specified so that estimates for the whole or for any part of the work may easily be secured. To prepare a grading plan there must first be a simple survey of the property. The map of the survey should show the property lines and existing features, such as large trees, buildings, roads, if any, all in their true relative dimensions and positions. In connection with this survey levels should be taken showing the existing contours at intervals of from one to five feet, according to the slope of the ground. Also elevations at the base of trees and in the vicinity of buildings, the sidewalk elevation, and the crown of the highway. I will not go very deeply into the technicalities of making a survey or of running levels. On small properties anyone with a knowledge of simple engineering can get all the data necessary; on larger estates a topographical survey is necessary. THE PLANTING PLAN The planting plan represents the horticultural and esthetic part of the design. It shows the selection and distribution of the trees and plants, each having a definite purpose and a direct bearing on the whole general scheme. In the making of such a plan all the questions that the reader will find taken up and considered in the chapters on Tree and Shrub Planting, Flower Gardens, etc., are important, and their application is shown in Chapter XI, where many concrete examples will be found. LOCATING THE HOUSE 19 CHAPTER II LOCATING THE HOUSE When planning the house, even for a small plot, much consid- eration should be given to the proper location. The aim should be to secure comfort, pleasure and enjoyment for the occupants, not only from the interior, but as well from as much of the exterior as may be embraced. Some thought should be given, too, to the presentment of the best architectural features of the house to the view of those from without. EXPOSURE The course of the sun in relation to the principal rooms of the house should be of the first importance. Fig. 7 shows the points of the compass and the comparative value of each exposure. The location of the majority of small houses is governed by the street. The highways usually run north and south, or east and west, and so the houses are placed accordingly, invariably facing the street. This is a practice that should be discontinued if we are to get all the enjoyment possible out of our homes. There is no good reason why we should not turn the house entirely around if necessary to get the best exposure. By careful planning of the house and grounds, the kitchen wing may, if advisable, face the street with more pleasure and comfort to the occupants, and with- out objection to the passerby. Figs. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 show houses variously lo- cated on small lots. On larger estates the house should really be planned for the house site, and not the site for the house, as Fig. 14.—A house on an eminence with rising ground in the rear.— See page 20 20 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING is so often the case. Here, too, we have the question of best ex- posure, and, in addition, consideration must be given to the back- ground, views, and drainage. The house should always be on an eminence, but need not neces- sarily be on the highest point of the ground (Fig. 14). In fact, it is often advisable to select a site with rising ground at the rear. If the rising ground be wooded the house will appear more attractive and fit more snugly into the landscape. For the best view one can always ascend to the higher point for observation and the scene will be more enjoyable for the occasional visit than it would be if it were continually within the line of vision. It is often possible to locate the house so that the principal rooms are on the axis of some beautiful distant view. This point should not be overlooked when the site is selected. The question of drainage is an important one. To secure com- fort and health in a home the cellar and foundation should always be dry. The ideal location is one where the ground slopes directly away from the house on all four sides (Fig. 15, page 77). When such a location is not naturally available extra provision must be made when grading the ground directly around the house. The character of the soil should be considered and, if the ground is wet, underdrains should be provided. The attitude usually assumed, to the effect that no consideration ‘need be given to the landscape treatment when locating houses on plots of an acre or less, needs some modification. While the house must be, of course, the dominant feature, a careful study of sur- rounding .conditions, the question of exposure and exterior adorn- ment before locating the house, will well repay the owner. It is much to be regretted that, on account of the generally in- considerate placing of the house, most of our lawn area is in the rear of the house. Certainly this gives a larger measure of privacy, but too often this privacy is a detriment. People grow careless of that which is not open for all to see. Backyards provide a con- venient place for the accumulation of trash and rubbish and soon the lawn is in danger of being neglected (Figs. 11 and 12). A much better scheme is that of placing the house well to the rear of the lot, leaving but a small space at the back; or of placing the house well to one side, allowing a more extended lawn from the front to rear line. If the exposure is good the principal rooms of the house may be planned to face the lawn rather than the street. 21 LOCATING THE HOUSE 6| 28ed aag —,aansodxa ysaq ayy 33 0} Asessadou jl punose Ajaatqua asnoy ay} UINy JOU P[noys aM AM uoseal poos ou st alayy, | —"7 “BI Ci NAS HHL OL NOLLVTAY NI ASNOH AHL NOs AWNSOdkA LSAd Sao oy SaooHd Sai Bre 22 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 8.—House located well to the rear of the lot with straight box bordered approach.—See page 19 arn STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT LOCATING THE HOUSE 23 Fig. 9.—House facing the street with straight ap- proach.—See page 19 rT Sr Oy oe i STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 24 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 10.— House located wel Ito the rear of lot, showing treatment with curved walk, entering from the side to give apparent breadth to the property.—See . pages 19 and 29 STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT LOCATING THE HOUSE 25 Fre. othe House located with kitchen wing facing the street; hidden by the plant- ing.—See pages 19 and 20 STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 26 Fig. 12.— House placed in the center of lot facing the rear, and overlooking a formal garden. The borders are shrub plan- tations with a bird thicket at the rear as a background to the garden.— See page 19 PRACTICAI. LANDSCAPE GARDENING lane STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT LOCATING THE HOUSE 27 Fig. 13.— House facing the street, with curved ap- proach; lawn in rear protected by the extend- ing border plantings.— See page 19 STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT ce ased 99g —"pesAowiot yeymoulos 4eM ddIAIOS Jo][ews YIM Fem ureur queulwlod— 'VPZ ‘BLY <4 4 + Vv = HH oO s 04 WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 29 CHAPTER II ARRANGEMENTS OF WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES After the site for the house has been located the next provision to be made concerns the best arrangement of walks and drives. Here, as in all the other features of landscape development, we have a wide latitude and are not confined to any one particular style. Every property has its individual conditions; these must be care- fully considered, for they will more or less influence the designer of the drive and walk arrangement. One principle, however, is fixed: Drives and walks must be as direct as possible without being forced or twisted; they should approach by means of straight lines or by easy, graceful curves. The house being the objective point, the trend should always be in its direction. The approach, when from the side, should be so placed that a good perspective of the house will attract the eye as one comes toward it. If some architectural feature in the house is a dominant note and worthy of attention arrange the curve so that, at a certain point, this feature will hold the center of the pic- ture. Some such feature may be a prettily designed window or doorway. When the house is situated at some distance from the highway, the foreground fairly level, and the property of considerable depth, a straight approach (Fig. 16) on the axis of the portal, such as the straight, box-bordered approaches of the old Southern homes, is most pleasing. In a straight approach (Fig. 17) there should be no circles, such as we often see, around which a detour must be made before the house is reached. On a property of little breadth the straight walk through the center bisects the lawn, leaving two tracts which are very difficult to treat. On such a property it is better to confine the walk to one side (Fig. 10) and arrange the planting to accentuate the breadth. In the majority of cases drive and walk should enter at a right angle to the property line (Fig. 18) and finish parallel to the house. Fig. 19 shows an improper method of intersection with front pavement. ONITTAMG AHL OL SHHOVONddY NI ACNLS V 6Z 28ed aag—asnoy ayy Buryoeal alojaq apeul aq ysnut sinojap YsIyM punole sapoito ploAe sayoeoidde yyates3s uj— Z| “BLY 67 ased aag—yoeoidde 7yBres3s jo Juawasueue sutmoys—'9| “SLY WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 31 Jaf Fig. 18.—Good entrance arrangement. Fig. 19.—Poor entrance arrangement. Walk entering at a right angle to the Walk not at a right angle to property property line.—See page 29 line.—See page 29 When a residence is located on a highway where all or nearly all of the traffic is from one point, the entrance drive (Fig. 20) should favor that direction. Such an arrangement is also desirable when the ground on the opposite side of the road is precipitous or dangerous. The entrance gate should be toward that side of the property from which the greater portion of the traffic may be expected. It is a decided mistake to place the entrance at a point where it will necessitate the crossing of the breadth of the lot and then having \A x N See eee 5 Fig. 20.—Entrance arrangement when traffic is all from one direction to return to the house after entering the property. Where the traffic is likely to be just as great from one direction as from another it is quite practicable and pleasing to have two entrances with a semi-cir- cular walk to the front (Fig. 21). This is feasible where the width of the lot is about equal to the distance (or a little less) from the [¢ 98ed aag—quejsodut Ajyenba st uorq2auIp Jayjta ut yoeosdde ayy asayM paqdope yusuiadueue 4je4\—"|7 “BIY oO S Zz fQ Q 4 gq Oo [ea] Oy «x O wn Q Z S od) ) wT Cb BLY CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 51 in the interstices, they may be laid directly on the turf where they will eventually settle into place with all the appearance of having “‘just happened there.” Fig. 44.—Walk of broken flagstones laid with wide mortar joints.—See page 49 BRICK WALKS The brick walk, properly laid, is pleasing to the eye and makes a good contrast with the turf. It does not lend itself well to curved lines and so should be used only where straight lines predominate. Bricks may be laid on either a cinder or a concrete base. A cinder base should consist of six inches of clean cinders with one i IY, A ¥, YW : Y Z LL Bid AOC Gy y G GY YW Wey Las y Fig. 45.—Walk of broken flagstones laid with wide mortar joint.—See page 49 52 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING A SLATE WALK Fig. 46.—Slate makes a pleasing walk, coming as it does in various shades, some slates being beautifully marked with rich brown splashes.—See page 49 CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 53 Fig. 47.—If a brick walk is six feet Fig. 48.—A good treatment for brick wide or more a border such as walks less than six feet wide.—See shown here makes an attractive page 51 finish.—See page 51 inch of bar sand as a cushion. The concrete base, which is more expensive, should consist of five inches of concrete with a one inch sand cushion. A concrete base preserves a true alignment and prevents upheavals. A brick walk should always have a curb of bricks laid on edge or end. Figs. 47, 48, 49, 50 and 51 show various designs for brick walks. The old diagonal fashion (Fig. 52) gives an atmosphere of Colonial times and will probably continue to be looked upon with favor by those who contemplate the construction of garden walks. This design in particular does not lend itself well to curved lines, so its use is limited to positions where straight lines predominate. Fig. 49.—An attractive border of Fig. 50.—Basket pattern. Half bricks brick laid on edge the full width.— on edge for a border.—See page 51 See page 51 54 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING os . YY Fig. 51.—The basket pattern of bricks Fig. 52.—The old-fashioned diagonal on edge is not so pleasing, as it or herringbone pattern in bricks or shows too many mortar tile. Good where straight lines lines.—See page 53 predominate.—See pages 51 and 53 When the bricks are Jaid in place the joints should be filled with bar sand or grouted and pointed with cement mortar. The mortar joints are expensive but more lasting than the sand and _ prevent weeds or grass from growing in the interstices. The texture of brick walks may be greatly improved by applying an occasional coating of boiled linseed oil. STEPPING STONE WALKS Stepping stones of local field stone (Figs. 53 and 54) are very naturalistic and picturesque. They may be laid in a single or double line; the double line for walks of importance, the single line for secondary paths. The stones should be set into the sod to a depth that will bring the flat surface level with the turf to allow of the lawn mower passing over. Space the stones twenty inches apart, center to center, using stones not less than twelve inches wide nor larger than eighteen inches wide. Vary the stones and avoid placing pieces of the same dimensions close together. TERRACE WALKS Terrace walks (Fig. 55) should be of rather generous dimensions, never less than five feet wide, while on very broad terraces the walk may be from seven to ten feet wide. It is good practice 'on broad terraces to place the walk nearer the house than the edge of the CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 55 Fig. 53.—Stepping stone walk; the stones, gathered from local sources, are laid twenty inches apart, center to center.—See page 54 ° terrace, that is, to have more turf area on the outside of the walk than between the walk and the building. Any of the materials mentioned for walk construction are suit- able for terrace walks. Something substantial looking, such as the flags, or bricks, are most appropriate, and should always be laid on a firm base. DUTCH TILE Dutch tile, sometimes called brick tile on account of the simi- larity in texture, should be more generally used for terrace walks. These should always be laid on a concrete base with mortar joints not less than one-half inch wide. All paving material should be laid true and even, and on walks Fig. 54.—Field stones laid in turf are very pleasing where a walk of some width is desired.— See page 54 56 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING TREATMENT OF THE TERRACE WALK Fig. 55.—Terrace walks should be of generous dimensions, never less than five feet wide.— See page 54 CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 57 Tep cournre 1inch Middle ws pansies Bottem" & Fig. 56.—A cross section through a waterbound macadam road with cement curb and gutter.—See page 62 it is essential to give them a crown of one-half of an inch to the foot. Terrace walks should follow the general slope of the ground. DRIVEWAYS OF CEMENT On small properties the cement driveway is advisable and superior to any other. Oftentimes two cement tracks, with sod between, will take care of all traffic and yet apparently reduce the space taken up by the drive. WATERBOUND MACADAM Most of the driveways built today are those which are known as Telford roads (Fig. 56). These are usually constructed of twelve inches of stone over all. An eight inch foundation is provided of hard quarry stone, laid on edge, with’ the longest dimension placed Fig. 57.—Very often the large stone for the base course in the drive may be quarried on the property.—See page 58 58 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING AN IDEAL BITUMINOUS ROAD Fig. 58.—A ‘‘ Tarvia’’ macadam road: Free from dust and of good wearing qualities.— See page 59 at a right angle to the side line of the drive. Very often this large stone can be found on the property (Fig. 57). After the stones are placed they should be gone over with napping hammers and made fairly even by breaking off the irregular edges; the pieces of stone so broken off should be used to fill in chinks. Over this should be placed three inches of one and one-half inch stone. Then a light covering of three-quarter inch stone may be placed as a binder and finished with clean breaker dust. The drive should be rolled be- fore and after placing the three-quarter inch stone, with a roller weighing not less than five tons. The three-quarter inch stone and the dust should never be mixed together; the dust will work through and the stone find the surface, making it rough and trouble- some. When rolling the finished surface it should be wetted con- stantly until a wave of water appears in front of the roller. BITUMINOUS ROADS The automobile is a new factor to be figured with in the con- struction of drives, as we find the waterbound roads are not very CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 59 SII SS. L | Cc =—-« a ee / | PAVEMENT ——_ ——__—_ YY Re 5s a Ss sg CONSTRUCTION OF A CEMENT APPROACH Fig. 59.—Showing the construction of a cement driveway approach satisfactory when subjected to the wear and tear of motor travel. Dust prevention must also be considered. To strengthen the wearing surface of the macadam and reduce the amount of dust, some kind of refined tar is best (Fig. 58). There are many such preparations on the market today and each carries with it proper specifications for applying. CEMENT SURFACING In some localities it is impossible to secure a stone with any adhesive qualities. Where such a condition exists run a cement grout, consisting of one part Portland cement to three parts of sharp sand, over the surface. Over this place a thin layer of the breaker dust and go over with a splint broom, thus roughening up the sur- face to prevent skidding. This makes a good, practical driveway that will stand a lot of traffic without unraveling or costing anything for maintenance. CEMENT APPROACHES At the point where the drive intersects the highway it is advis- able to pave the surface from the outside edge of the gutter to the property line (Fig. 59). It is necessary, usually, to increase the drive incline at this point to meet the gutter grade, and if macadam is used there is constant erosion. The paved surface prevents this and affords a hard surface for pedestrians. Such an approach should PAS PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 60 19 a8ed 3ag—'syD0]q UeIZJaq Jo payons3sU0d 1033n3 & Aq peuyap BAUP aqeedIAJes pue Bulseajd y—"99 “BLY NOILONYLSNOOD YALLND EE ay: zz $ ra K as CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 6l be constructed of cement or brick. If cement is used the surface should be roughened to prevent slipping. GUTTERS Where the walk or drive grade is not steep gutters will not be required and a few catch basins will take care of the surface water (Fig. 60). If the surface over which the water gathers is great enough the road will be more pleasing and serviceable when defined by a curb or gutter. " Mh Mt, paves Fig. 61.—Section of a concrete gutter and Fig. 62.—A section showing the con: curb.—See page 59 struction of a rubblestone gutter and curb CEMENT GUTTERS Where gutters (Fig. 61) are required the most satisfactory, although undoubtedly artificial in appearance, is the cement curb and gutter combined. This forms a good, substantial feature against which to finish the sod on one side and the road metal on the other. The foundation on heavy soils should be extended to a depth of eighteen inches. Use clean boilerhouse cinders or stone spawls as a foundation to within five inches of the finished grade; on this place the concrete, consisting of a mixture of one part Portland cement to four parts of sand and five parts of crushed stone. The finish coat should consist of one part Portland cement and two parts of sharp sand, troweled even and hard. RUBBLE GUTTERS -The rubble curb and gutter (Fig. 62), built of quarried or field stone laid on edge and swept with chips, is very suitable for sub- urban and country districts. Such gutters should be not less than eighteen inches wide. An objectionable feature of the rubble gutter is that the grass and weeds grow up through the interstices. Where the stone is laid on a good foundation of clean cinders, twelve or eighteen inches 62 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING deep, the joints may be grouted with Portland cement mortar, using three parts sand and one part cement. This grouting will prevent the grass and weed growth. BRICK GUTTERS Brick gutters should always be laid on a four inch concrete base and firmed with either bar sand or a cement grouting. A concave brick gutter, eighteen inches wide, should have a slope of three inches to the center. If a curb is desired the brick should be laid on end with the gutter finishing against it. SOD GUTTERS The most pleasing gutters are those of turf. Such gutters should be concave, with a slope toward the center of from one to two inches to the foot. A gutter four feet wide should slope two inches to the center. A gutter six feet wide should slope one inch to the foot, giving a three inch depression as the minimum. The carrying ca- pacity is increased by the increased breadth. In sod gutters inlets are necessary to carry off the surface water. The number required will be governed by the area to be drained. In rolling ground with large areas it is usually necessary to place them every fifty feet. When building a driveway where sod gutters have been adopted the drive surface should be finished even with the soil so that the water will run off into the gutters. Turf gutters should be formed of tough sod cut from an old pasture. Before laying the sod, the concave surface should be covered with three or four inches of good soil and made true and even with a template. This can easily be pulled along as the soil is deposited and a uniform surface made for the reception of the sod. CARE OF SOD GUTTERS Every Spring the edge of the gutter should be tamped down along the edge of the drive, as the frost will heave it higher than the road metal. It should be rolled when the lawn is gone over in early Spring after the frost is out of the ground. CATCH BASINS Catch basins (Fig. 56) may be constructed of concrete or brick, whichever material is most convenient to the operation. The con- crete construction is simple and should consist of a mixture of one part Portland cement, three parts of sand, and four parts of crushed CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 63 stone. Side walls should be six inches thick plumb, and an opening left for the outlet pipe one foot above the bottom of the basin. This will allow a space for the sand and debris to collect. The side walls for brick catch basins should be at least nine inches thick, built of straight, hard, building bricks that will ring clear when hit together. They should be laid in a Portland cement mortar consisting of one part cement to two parts of sharp sand. ee “Wi fff hone c L000 SSS — ~ Brick Fig. 63.—A good type of Fig. 64.—A catch basin designed to receive a catch basin grating large volume of water GRATINGS Catch basins should be provided with gratings (Fig. 63) with ample open spaces between the bars for a free intake of all water. Small openings become clogged with leaves and are useless. Where a large volume of water is to be taken care of it is well to build the basin back six or eight inches beyond the iron grating and place a coping stone over it, with an opening three inches wide, for the full length of the grating (Fig. 64). CONNECTING CATCH BASINS WITH DRAINAGE LINES Where road drainage is connected to the sewage disposal system it Is necessary to have a running trap between the sewerage line and each connection with the catch basins. In this event care should be exercised to see that all pieces of pipe are free from flaws and the joints packed with oakum before cementing the sections together. PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 64 4 aM ‘ JQUURUT sIy] UT paqees] UME] B Jo WUIeYD ay] sazeAYSN][I MATA BY “197eM VoRJINs ayy Yo utesp 03 adojs qualoyns Ajuo ‘gulyepnpun ATayBys st punois ayy asnoy ay} Jo aseq ay} 0} Uayosqun st adejINs ay} jt Bulseajd ysour st qoadse ay ala A\— 69 BL LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 65 CHAPTER V LAWNS— GRADING, CONSTRUCTION AND UPKEEP No single feature connected with the landscape development of a property is so important as the lawn. We speak here of a lawn principally in the sense of an open grass plot, not in the composite sense of turf and plantings that we often think of when the term “lawn” is used. Possibly the old English term ‘“‘ greensward’’ would be a better word to use to describe a lawn in its single meaning, and we may revert to its use occasionally to keep the thought fixed. The lawn is the base that we must work on to make a pleasing landscape picture. It is the central feature and requires strict attention to all details. It is the element in landscape gardening that continually lends or takes. It is framed by pleasing shrubbery borders and, in turn, frames lovely vistas. Made perfectly level, and hedged in tightly with border plantings, the whole property looks cramped and contracted. Given gentle slopes and slight de- pressions, and allowed to run off here and there, a feeling of expanse is created. A house set lower than the street level may, by care in the lawn grading, be made to appear much higher than it is. In these and in many other ways does the lawn enter largely into the best landscape development. PRELIMINARY PREPARATIONS Good greenswards are not often met with, and the majority of failures may be traced to lack of forethought in the making, that is, lack of forethought in the physical construction. Too often soil and seed alone enter into the question and no thought of drainage or future upkeep. Such lawns are never a success and can never be improved unless torn up and a fresh start made. Let us look well, then, to a right beginning, so that our finished lawn will be a unison of the proper relation to house, best drainage and construction, proper seeding, and ease of upkeep. In order to do this it is essential that we familiarize ourselves thoroughly with all existing physical conditions before the work is started. 66 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING A LAWN ASCENDING FROM A HIGHWAY Fig. 65. —Cross section showing proper grading of portion around a residence located on ground ascending from the highway.—See page 67 Before the excavation of the cellar is made all the top soil, which extends to a depth of from four to twelve inches, should be removed and stacked in convenient piles for future use. It is well, too, to remove the surface soil for a distance of fifteen to twenty-five feet beyond the lines of all the buildings, as the construction work is apt to destroy all the soil close by. This important feature is often overlooked, for, as a general rule, the landscape gardener is not called in for advice until the residence and other buildings have been completed. Very frequently, too, houses are not properly situated as regards the elevation of the floor level above the surrounding grades of the ground. It has been the author’s experience that a large percentage of the residences have been set entirely too low. It is very much better to err in the opposite direction, as height may be overcome by a proper planting at the base of the house in case there is not a sufficient amount of soil available to make the necessary fill. A LAWN DESCENDING FROM A HIGHWAY Fig. 66.—Cross section showing proper grading around a residence located on ground descending from the highway.—See page 67 LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 67 olla: Fini] a Fig. 67.—A section through foundation wa showing the revised grade at the point where th® natural grade slopes toward the house. The line CC is the line of the natural grade; the line BB is the revised surface grade; the line AA is the revised sub-grade. An agricultural tile is provided at the base of the well to prevent seepage running into the cellar. Fig. 68.—A section showing the construction of a dry well for surface water.—See page 68 “rile LAWNS ASCENDING FROM HIGHWAYS If the house is located on ground ascending from the highway, with still higher ground in the rear of the house site, it is necessary to provide a plateau for the building (Fig. 65). This should be approached with a bold hand and the cutting out behind the build- ing made broad and generous to avoid a sense of being shut in. The revised surface should be sloped away from the building in all direc- tions. The minimum fall on the axis of the building should be one-eighth of an inch to the foot, while from the center toward the ends of the building at least one-quarter of an inch to the foot should be provided for. LAWNS DESCENDING FROM HIGHWAYS Somewhat the same conditions prevail on ground descending from the highway (Fig. 66). In both instances the precaution of waterproofing the house foundations, either with a tar paint or by building them of waterproofed concrete, should not be over- looked. SUB-GRADE The lawn surface around the house should have a minimum slope of one-half an inch to the foot and care should be taken to see that the sub-grade has a similar inclination (Fig. 67). No mat- ter how great the surface slope away from the house is, if the old 68 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING natural grade pitches toward the foundation walls the water perco- lates through the new fill and runs down the foundation walls to the cellar. Such a condition may also be overcome by filling in around the house with a stiff clay, if available, this to. be thoroughly tamped or, still better, puddled. This sub-grade should have a slope of at least two inches to the foot for a distance of four feet from the foundation walls. Beyond that it may be reduced to one-half inch to the foot. UNDERDRAINAGE Occasionally the ground falls away enough to have a point lower than the cellar floor. In such instances it is a wise precaution against a damp cellar to introduce a three or four inch agricultural tile around the base, laid with open joints and half collars placed over each joint to prevent the soil from falling in and clogging the orifice. Where drive and walk drains exist this line of pipe may be connected with that system. LAWN GRADING Generally speaking, the surface beyond the buildings may be left as found so far as the contour of the ground is concerned; the exception being small properties where it is possible to modify all lines of grade to suit the house without entailing too great an expense. LARGER AREAS On larger properties it is only necessary to soften steep depres- sions or humps by lengthening the slopes, provided, of course, that the surface water may be drained off. Where depressions are large and the work entailed to carry the surface water off over the surface is too extensive, a catch basin should be provided. From this the drain may be projected to a lower point of grade or to a small well. Such a well should be about three feet in diameter and four feet deep (Fig. 68), this to be filled with stone to within twelve inches of the top, over which place the top soil. Draining to such a well is preferable to running it out on the surface. Drainage to a well spreads by seepage over a large area. In case a sewer line has been installed in the streets it is much better to connect with it, but extreme care should be taken to see that the line of pipe is properly trapped to prevent sewer gas from backing up in the pipe lines. LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 69 Hedge a) e ints 1st yy Heuse CORRECT GRADING FOR HOUSE BELOW PAVEMENT GRADE Fig. 70.—A section showing revised grade for lawn when the house is located lower than the pavement HOUSE BELOW PAVEMENT GRADE Quite frequently topographical conditions are encountered that make it necessary to set the house below the grade of the pave- ment. (Fig. 70.) In such cases the site selected should be just as far back from the property line as practicable, the slope from the Ho ie Hedge ——— — — yoepe etn CORRECT GRADING WHEN HOUSE IS ON STREET LEVEL Fig. 71.—A section showing concave lawn surface where the pavement and house grades are on the same level. The convex surface as shown by the dotted line is not so good as it apparently shortens the distance.—See page 70 house to a point one-fifth to one-third the total distance from the house to the property line to be made rather sharp, with the longer slope from the property line to the established low point. This treatment will seemingly lift the house up and is more pleasing than a grade with the longer slope falling from the house. TREATMENT OF TERRACES Fig. 72.—When the distance CC is less than BB it is better to eliminate the slope BC and grade along the lines of AA.—See page 70 70 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Should the point of grade at the house and at the pavement be on the same level (Fig. 71), and provided the house is located well back from the property line, the appearance will be greatly enhanced by making a depression between the house and the street. To do this the elevation of the ground at one side must be below the lowest point of depression. It is very apparent that a lawn graded to such a profile would give a sense of distance while, on the other hand, a convex line would tend to shorten the distance. TERRACES When to introduce terraces is a problem that requires careful consideration. On a ground slightly undulating and where the surface slopes are rather gentle, the effect is more pleasing if the lawn rolls right up to the walls of the house. On more rugged ground, where there is a great variation in levels between the various corners of the house, a level plateau surrounding the house is better. The width of the terrace will depend somewhat on the size of the building and the lot; ordinarily it should not be less than fourteen feet; if there is to be a paved terrace or a porch, the turf terrace, being of different texture, should be at least one-third greater in width. It is very unsatisfactory to have a terrace of greater breadth than the remaining area between the bottom of the slope and the line of the property. When a condition exists wherein the space is not great enough to treat it as above recommended it is more advisable to have the slope extend from the plateau at the house to the property line by a gentle inclination (Fig. 72). The surface should slope at least one-half inch to the foot, and the slope from the terrace to the sur- rounding lawn grade should not be steeper than one foot to two feet, while one to three is much preferable as the grass is more easily cut on such a slope than on one with a sharper inclination (Fig. 73). The slope should always be uniform and the line next to the house should be parallel to the building, while the bottom line of the ter- race may vary according to the slope of the abutting lawn. When close to the house, where straight lines predominate, it is best to have two lines of the terrace well defined. A terrace along a property line (Fig. 74) may be graded to a convex surface at the top, and at the bottom it may be given a con- cave surface, thus gracefully merging the steeper grades into the more gentle ones at top and bottom. LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 7\ Where hedges are to be planted along property lines, at the top U “S of the terrace, or at the bottom, YY; Wf // wich is the better place for them, TREATMENT OF TERRACES the lines should be decided (Fig. Fig. 74.—A section showing convex and 75). When a hedge is to be planted pres eee las spotters at the bottom of a slope, the toe a ae of the slope should be at least three aac ocean Pree 1 feet back from the line. This will Se provide a level space H ede © tostand on and trim the hedge with much more comfort than standing OF TERRACES onaslope. The plants, too, Tig er oeeA Wace: UT will thrive better. Slopes hee showtite bes ¥ ae ' should always be sodded of a slope and the space between the bottom o! . ; the slope and the hedge, where a hedge is to be where a good, clean turf is provided at the toe of the slope. procurable. UY TREATMENT ~ LAWN MAKING While the building is in course of construction the soil will become very much compacted by the teams and mechanics, a condition which is rather bad for the sustaining of grass. All the areas which have been trodden down hard should be loosened up before the surface soil is replaced. Better turf can usually be grown on soil that is broken up to some depth. When the grading is being done it is well to take account of the nature of the soil and ascertain what treatment may be necessary for the production of a satisfactory stand of grass. If the soil is of a sandy or gravelly nature, or if it is lacking in humus, barnyard manure should be spread and thoroughly assimilated with the top soil. Should the soil be of a stiff, clayey nature, equal parts of sand and manure should be mixed through the top soil. This will make the soil more porous and the rain and air will reach the roots of the grass. Another point to look to, at this time, is the digging and prepa- ration of holes for any trees or specimen shrubs that it is planned to locate on the lawn. Such work can be done to much better advan- tage now than if left until after the rolling and seeding. 72 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING ‘Sometimes it is necessary to raise the grade on ground where large trees are established. A fill of a foot or more of soil over the roots of most trees will kill them very quickly. Such trees may be preserved by building a dry retaining wall with a diameter at least two feet greater than the trunk. If the lawn is of sufficient size and the trees form a clump, a depression may be left around them. Now that the rough work is out of the way, drainage attended to, grades established and terraces built, the question of the real making of the new lawn confronts us. The changed conditions make it necessary to provide new soil close to the house and on properties of small dimensions it may be necessary to resurface the entire area. Wherever fill is needed just as good soil as can be procured should be used and at least four inches of good top soil provided for the surface. If the old turf needs remaking it should be dug or plowed to the depth of a spade, the soil being turned weil over, stones and weed roots removed and large clods broken up. Manuring or fertilizing is an important question. Experts claim that one ton of grass removes from the soil thirty-four pounds of nitrogen, thirty-six pounds of potash and seventeen pounds of phosphoric acid. It is largely these substances, therefore, that must be provided. Stable manure, if obtainable, is very satis- factory. Applv at the rate of one load per one hundred square yards and dig or fork it into the soil. Care should be exercised to see that the manure is not buried too deeply, else it will not be with- in reach of the new young grass—four inches ‘is a good average depth. A good commercial fertilizer, containing four per cent. nitrogen, eight per cent. phosphoric acid and ten per cent. potash, will be found to give very satisfactory results. This should be applied at the rate of ten pounds per one hundred square yards and raked in. Fertilizers that are highly soluble should not be used on sandy soils, as they will quickly dissolve after rainfalls, be washed beyond the reach of the roots and so wasted. This same remark covers all commercial fertilizers applied in a wet season or a time of drought. In one case they are washed away, and in the other they lie about the surface and waste. After manuring, the ground should be prepared to receive the seed. The soil should be carefully gone over with an iron toothed rake, all large stones removed, clods broken up and weed roots taken out, then rolled and raked until the surface becomes firm and fine; it should be so firm that walking over it leaves no footprints. 73 GRADING AND UPKEEP LAWNS: OL Bed vag—Bulgjas [etUeIsqns sO e aAvY [IM ddoys ay} Jo yUIod Moy 34} 3e sdUapIse ay} Jo pua a4} 724} Os ‘suOtypuod Yons JapuN a[qeoiqoeid se apIM se ade1I] & BABY 0} Jsaq SARMIP SI }] “J9Y}O JY} 7e apess [einyeu yj 429U 0} NO und pue ‘pua aU0 72 a0e1I9} YSIY & DALY 07 ATeSsadOU SEM 7 JEU} JeII3 Os SEM adojs 243 a1a4yM PuNoIZ UO pozed9] SI asnoy sIy[—"¢/ “BLT SAOVENAL AO LNANLVAYL 74 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING SODDING The spaces along the walks and drives should be sodded to maintain the edge. It is well, too, to sod the space directly against the house, to prevent any soiling of the wall surfaces by splashing. SEEDING Time of sowing and the best seed are subjects of equal impor- tance. Unless we look well to these two essentials we may have our trouble in the manuring and preparation of the ground set to naught. Spring and Fall are the best seasons for sowing, prefer- ably the months of April and September. Lawns seeded late in the Fall should be given a mulch as a Winter protection. GRASS SEEDS The varieties of grasses suitable for the making of a good lawn are limited. The general desire is for a close turf of pleasing color. Soil and climatic conditions will enter largely into the right selec- tion. (The recommendations which follow apply to the Atlantic coast region north of Washington, D. C., and the Allegheny region as far south as northern Georgia.) Kentucky Blue Grass is the best all-around lawn grass and will thrive in any good lawn, providing it receives a generous but not excessive amount of moisture. In soils of very light character Red Top, Rhode Island Bent, Creeping Bent or White Clover are good. On account of the varied conditions met with, a mixture including the above named kinds in varying proportion, is usually most satis- factory. Seed of the highest grade from a reliable house should be pur- chased and sown at the rate of five bushels (100 Ibs.) to the acre; or, one quart to 300 sq. ft. This will allow for a very generous seeding, which is much to be preferred to seed sparsely scattered. Grass seeds will vary in weight as to the number of pounds to the bushel. In recleaned seeds of a high grade, Blue Grass should run from twelve to fifteen pounds to the bushel; Red Top extra re- cleaned, thirty pounds to the bushel; Creeping Bent, twenty pounds; Rhode Island Bent, fourteen pounds; White Clover, sixty pounds. A good grass seed mixture should average twenty pounds to the bushel. A calm day should be chosen for the seeding, otherwise it is 75 LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP ZL Bed aeag—"yuns] 94} UeYY 1938918 yooJ OM] Ysea] Je JazOUIVIp & YIM ‘[[eM Bululeyol Ap e& BuIpfing Aq paasasoid aq Aeur seq] yong = “AyYotnb AVA 7 [[Ly [ITM 91] & Jo s}001 94} J9AO [los Jo BOUT 1O }00} e JO [[Y Y ‘“paeyst[qeysa ose saat] aB1e] a19yYM PUNOIS UO apeI3 ayy aste1 0} AlessadaU SI I SIUIIJBWIOG—'g/ “BI SAAUL GNNOYV GAdVeO SNAVT 76 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING hard to get an equal distribution. The seeding should be done in two directions, dividing the seed into two lots, one-lot being sown at a right angle to the other. After sowing, the seed should be covered to a depth of about one-quarter of an inch: this may be done by raking the surface lightly. The ground should then be rolled with a light roller. When the young grass is about one and one-half inches high it should be rolled again and the first cutting made when about two inches high. The machine should be set quite high for the first cutting. All bare and thin places should be promptly reseeded. The lawn having been thoroughly established it is very essential that careful and systematic attention be given to the upkeep; other- wise it will deteriorate very quickly. Weeds are always a menace and, linked with Fall Grass, should be continually fought against. Newly made lawns often contain many weeds of an annual nature which disappear after a few cut- tings. The perennial weeds are persistent and can only be effective- ly removed by hand. The dandelion and plantain are exceedingly troublesome and must be removed, root and top. This may be done with a sharp chisel or a three-pronged fork. Weeding forks for this purpose are to be had at all seed stores. Boys can usually be had to do this work at the rate of a few cents per hundred. During moist weather, when the grass is making vigorous growth, it should be cut about once in a week and an occasional rolling will help greatly to keep the surface firm. Grass does poorly on a loose surface. In hot, dry weather the blades in the machine should be raised so that the grass will be left of sufficient length to afford some protection to the roots. Too close cutting during Midsummer weakens the turf and makes it more susceptible to the inroads of Fall grass. Every Spring a fertilizer should be applied that will supply per acre one hundred pounds of potash and fifty pounds of available phosphoric acid. Apply at the same time a top dressing of three hundred pounds of nitrate of soda. The nitrate should be applied again at the end of June, using one hundred pounds to the acre. Such fertilizers are to be preferred to stable manures, as they are less offensive, require less labor to apply, and are free of weed seeds. It is possible sometimes to renovate a wornout lawn without LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 77 entirely remaking, by top dressing with a compost consisting of equal parts of soil and manure, to which about ten per cent. of tank- age has been added. Such a top dressing is recommended also for Jawns made on shallow soils. In the Southern States it is quite impossible to establish a per- manent greensward that will look well at all seasons. The only grass that will succeed with any degree of satisfaction is the Ber- muda Grass (Capriola dactylon). This grass dies to the ground in the Winter, but is good during the Spring, Summer and early Au- tumn. Lawns of this grass are made by cutting up the roots of old plants and setting the small tufts of root about twelve inches apart, mulching with well rotted manure. For Winter effect on terraces or lawn close to the house English perennial Rye may be sown. STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT Fig. 15.—“ The ideal location is one where the ground slopes away from the house on all four sides.’’"—See page 20 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 78 : G8 pure 0g seded sag—-1ea4 ayy jo sour [Je ye aATQDOYo ore sud9IBI9A9 peas] peoiq jo ssunuryd aseq ayy 392992 19339q & SIAIs UT] UOJ aU] Jo preMJoy JUIOd e ATfensy “Burpjing 243 JO Spud 94] 4e ApqDeIIp saaI3 94] Jue 07 afqestape skemje Jou Sta], SPue Yi0q Fe suolqyequeld Aq pouresy Ap1edoid aq eouaptsas ayy ey] [eIQUasse SI 71 ‘punoisyseq 2[qGe7INs & 0} UOT}Ippe UT | —"/7 “BLY ASNOH AHL ONINVUA ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 79 CHAPTER VI ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS Although the drives, walks and topography contribute much toward the general effect of the home grounds, it is upon the embel- lishment of the whole, through the proper selection and arrange- ment of the ornamental plantings, that we depend for the picturesque beauty and grace of the lawn. THE BACKGROUND FOR THE HOUSE A first consideration is a good background for the house and, where one does not already exist, plantations of trees should be located that will give this effect as quickly as possible. In such plantings it is advisable to set more trees than will be needed eventually, the principle being that trees planted close together encourage a greater top growth and thus attain height more quickly than trees given ample space for development; in the latter instance much of the strength going toward lateral growth. The Tulip Poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera) is a rapid growing tree with all the needed qualities for a background planting. Under favorable conditions the Tulip Poplar will reach a height of one hundred or more feet. The foliage, rich and glossy, the attractively lobed leaves, the large, tulip-like green and yellow flowers, and a straight, towering main stem are all attributes of this grand tree. If this tree is used it should be set well back from the house line, as the branches spread to such an extent and rise to such a height that they will form a most pleasing canopy over any smaller and slower growing trees which may be planted between it and the residence. Other good trees for background planting are Red Oak (Quercus rubra), American Elm (Ulmus americana) and Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum). These trees are all so well known that a brief descrip- tion will suffice. The Oak is, indeed, a majestic tree and well suited to any landscape subject. Downing sums up its chief characteris- tics in these few sentences: ‘‘ There is a breadth about the lights 80 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING and shadows reflected and embosomed in its foliage, a singular free- dom and boldness in its outline and a pleasing richness and in- tricacy in its huge ramifications of branch and limb that render it highly adapted to landscape purposes.” The Elm, while lacking something of the stateliness of the Tulip Poplar or the majesty of the Oak, outrivals them both in grace and elegance. The com- paratively slender branches form into long, graceful curves until, in old trees, the light and airy foliage often sweeps the ground. The Elm should only be used when small groups are required. These trees, as a rule, are so similar in form as to be monotonous when planted together in large numbers. The Maple is valued for the rapidity of its growth, although it, too, has fine form and foliage. The Autumn coloring of the Sugar Maple, a beautiful, bright yellow, red and orange, is not equaled in any other tree. FRAMING THE HOUSE In addition to a suitable background it is essential that the resi- dence be properly framed by plantations at both ends (Fig. 77). The size and character of this framework will depend largely on the architectural style and the dimensions of the house. For small houses, often one specimen tree, placed at each end, is quite suf- ficient. These lines from Milton will convey the picture of such a frame much better than a lengthy paragraph: “Hard by, a cottage chimney smokes From between two aged Oaks.” Houses built on a Jarger scale may require groupings. It is not always necessary nor advisable to plant the trees directly at the ends of the building. Usually a position forward of the front line gives a better effect. TREES FOR FRAMING THE HOUSE Where horizontal lines prevail in the general architectural ‘scheme trees of a pyramidal type should be used. The Ginkgo (Salisburia adiantifolia), European Larch (Larix europaea) and Lombardy Poplar (Populus fastigiata) are good examples of such trees. The Ginkgo (Fig. 78) occasionally assumes a broad, spread- ing top, but this type is so infrequently met with that it may be, for all purposes, classed and used as a pyramidal tree. For plant- ing near the house it is in a class alone and apart. Briefly, these ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 81 Fig. 78.—The Ginkgo, or Maidenhair Tree (Salisburia adiantifolia); a good type of pyramidal tree. ‘‘For planting near a house it is in a class alone and apart.’’"—See page 80 82 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 4 aA rR a Fig. 79.—The European Larch (Larix europza); a splendid tree to use near houses where horizontal lines predominate.—See page 84 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 83 Fig. 80.—The Cedrela (Cedrela sinensis). A good type of tree with spreading character; quick growing and free from insect attacks.—See page 84 i 84 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING are its chief attributes: Rapid growth, neat tapering head, un- usual grayish bark, immunity from insects, beautiful leaves re- sembling greatly in form the leaves of the Maidenhair fern, and long life. The form and outline harmonize exceedingly well with buildings. The European Larch (Fig. 79) is a cone-bearing tree and belongs to the Pine family. It is not an evergreen, however, as it sheds its leaves in the Fall as do the deciduous trees. Perhaps its greatest charm is the picturesque appearance of even young trees. It has such an expression of boldness and freedom that, planted near the house, this effect must be relieved somewhat by grouping it with smaller harmonious trees, such as the White or Pink Dogwood (Fig. 3). The Lombardy Poplar in large quantities (Fig. 2) should be introduced only on large estates and to frame great houses. When planted near moderately sized dwellings the great height, often attained very quickly, is over- whelming. When perpendicular lines predominate in the building the trees planted: close to it should be of a spreading character unless for some particular reason the perpendicular lines are to be accentuated. We have a great variety of such trees to choose from. If the house is large the Red Oak, White Oak, Elm, Cedrela, Sugar Maple and Ash are equally good. The Cedrela (Fig. 80) is a Chinese tree re- sembling the Ailanthus, but without its objectionable features. It is rapid growing and generally desirable. Near medium or small houses the Scarlet Maple, Sweet Gum, European Linden, Yellow Wood and Oregon Maple all have the needed characteristics. The Oregon Maple is uncommon and should be more frequently planted. It somewhat resembles the Sycamore Maple, but is a more robust grower; it has a large, handsome, dark green leaf. BASE PLANTINGS Houses which set close to the ground should have no planting at the base. The turf should extend up to the lines of the porches or paved terrace, with group plantings at the corners. Where the floor line is just enough above grade to admit of base plantings use plants dwarf in character (Fig. 81), with larger grow- ing varieties at the corners and in the blank wall spaces between windows. An error to avoid is the planting of anything in front of window openings that will attain a height great enough to inter- fere with the light. ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 85 The outlines of base plantings should always be sinuous, ex- tending out at the corners and receding to the face of the building. Where the width of the bed permits, the use of tall and low growing plants (Fig. 82) adds greatly to the effect from the approach. WHAT TO AVOID IN BASE PLANTINGS A popular practice today is the use of a miscellaneous assortment of evergreens in beds close to the house (Fig. 83). When the plants are small the effect is undoubtedly attractive and the contrast of the blue, green and golden foliage pleasing. Builders of suburban houses which it is desired to sell quickly have taken advantage of this appeal and, without thought of the future, have used these evergreen base plantings to the exclusion almost, in some commu- nities, of the more desirable shrubbery groupings. This practice should not be followed in planting the home grounds. Many of the evergreens used are not dwarf types and soon outgrow their positions. The effect becomes monotonous in the extreme and lacks the variety of foliage, flower and fruit attainable by the use of a judicious selection of shrubs and broad-leaved evergreens. PLANTS FOR BASE PLANTINGS—SHRUBS A good selection of shrubs of a rather dwarf character can be made up from the following list: Spiraa Thunbergii, Spirea An- thony Waterer, Deutzia gracilis, Caryopteris, Berberis Thunbergii, Azalea mollis, Desmodium penduliflorum, Deutzia Lemoinei, Daphne Mezereum, Forsythia suspensa, Spirea arguta, Amygdalus nana, Ceanothus americana, Coriaria japonica, Hypericum aureum, Andromeda speciosa (Fig. 84). If the planting admits the use of larger growing plants these varieties are splendid for use close to the house: Spireea Van Houttei, Rhodotypos kerrioides, Philadel- phus Lemoinei, Neviusia alabamensis, Ligistrum Regelianum, Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, Hydrangea arborescens grandi- flora alba, Callicarpa purpurea, Weigela Eva Rathke. PLANTS FOR BASE PLANTINGS—BROAD-LEAVED EVERGREENS The broad-leaved evergreens are splendid for base plantings (Fig. 77), and will usually grow easily on any but a due southern exposure. The attractiveness of the foliage in Winter recommends them for liberal use in plantings near the house. Dwarf and tall growing kinds may be had in a diversity of form and foliage. PRACTICAL LANDSCAPEY¥.GARDENING 86 Apsrepy +8 ased 929¢—"pasn uajjo os sSUud0IBI0A0 snosajtuod 94} Op ue qindj pue Jamoy ‘aBer[O} jo Ayatrea 91OUL aptaoid sqniys « PPeeYD Ul jizemp sjueld osn ssuueld aseq jo ywIpe 0} apeis ay} aAoqge ysnoua ysnt st aul] JOoy ay} B24M\ ,—"|g “BLY SONILNVTd ASVd 87 PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS ORNAMENTAL Gg ased vag—‘Surpying ayq jo a9ej ay 07 SuIpada1 puk s19UIOD a4} 42 yNO Sutpuajxe ‘snonuts aq sXemye ppnoys ssurque[d aseq jo autyyno ay], ‘Surquejd aseq & se sqniys snonptsap jo asn 42e1109 B MOYs 2/\—"7Q “BILLY SONLLNV Td ASVd PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 88 Gg eed sag¢—, ‘asnoy ay} 0} aso[> spaq Ul sUdzIZIAAa Jo JUUIZIOSse sNOoUR][adsIUI e Jo asn ay} st Aepo} 201}9e1d Iejndod y ONILNV Td ASVd LOAYYOONI NV ” — eg “BIY 89 SHRUBS ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF. TREES AND Gg aded vag—sul][amp ay} awed] Ajsadoid 0] pepeou are ‘asnoy a4} Jo pua Yea ye aUO ‘saa7] UaUIDads OM} “BUIQ}AS 94} aJa[dWIOD OF “sqniys BUIMOIS J981e] BY} Jo Surqueld aseq poos y—"pQ “BLY ONILNV'Td ASV NI S€NYHS JO ASN ONILVALSNTII 90 Fig. 85.—Plan showing a lawn planting around a small house. The trees marked No. | are placed for the purpose of a back- ground, while those _ designated No. 2 are arranged for the framing of the residence. The belt plantation, shown in an irregu- lar fashion, is more interesting and gives a greater va- riety to the scene than is possible with a straight bor- der. Deciduous and evergreen trees are shown at the broad portions of the bed to give the necessary height and a more pleas- ing skyline.—See page 91 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING UNITY IS NOT IMPOSSIBLE ON SMALL PLANTINGS ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 91 Among the best are the Azaleas, the hybrid Rhododendrons, the Andromedas, Japanese Holly, Aucuba viridis, Kalmia latifolia, Laurocerasus, Abelia grandiflora, the Mahonias, Leucothoes and Phillyrea. UNITY IN LAWN PLANTINGS Between the house and the boundary lines lies that portion of the lawn which is most difficult to handle and the part that we usually find the least tastefully designed. On this part of the premises we have to consider plantings along drives, plantings along walks and paths, lawn specimens and lawn groups. These must be considered individually and yet so treated that with the background, plantings around the house, and boundary plantations, all will combine to produce a harmonious whole. This we speak of as unity. Unity is not impossible on small properties. It may be had by keeping the greensward open and confining the plantings to the borders and along the paths (Fig. 85). Attempt only the simple, if you will, just grass and trees, and the effect is much more pleasing than a large tract planted with no definite aim. PLANTING FOR DETAIL It is along the drives and paths that we may plant for the beautiful, as it is here that the observer is brought into closer touch with the individual plant and its every detail. Specimen plants for such plantations should have, therefore, some unusual and delicate characteristics, which would most likely be lost if placed at a greater distance from the eye. Among those which are most highly recommended are the cut-leaved White Birch, the various forms of the Japanese Maple, the fern-leaved Beech, and the Eng- ligh Cork Maple. The Birch and the Maple are particularly handsome. Specimens noted in previous paragraph, planted along the line of a drive, should be set back about fifteen or twenty feet so as to give them a little foreground (Fig. 86). The Japanese Maples are quite dwarf and may be planted closer. Allow each tree ample space for perfect development and allow for a stretch of green- sward between specimens. AVOID STRAIGHT LINES The arrangement should be an avoidance of straight lines. The 92 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING PLANTING FOR DETAIL Fig. 86.—Deciduous and evergreen trees, together with shrubbery, at the intersectionYof drive and pathway. The individual plants should be so planted that each will grow into a perfect specimen of its kind.—See page 91 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 93 larger growing trees should be near the house and the smaller kinds between the house and the entrance. Large growing trees on a small lawn have a tendency to dwarf the area. One or two large trees near the house will be quite sufficient in most cases. AVOID ROWS OF TREES ALONG CURVED DRIVEWAYS Lines of trees along curved driveways or paths should be dis- couraged. Groupings are much more artistic (Figs. 87 and 88)- (See planting key, page 95.) LINES OF TREES FOR STRAIGHT DRIVEWAYS Along straight driveways lines of trees on either side are agreeable and are especially pleasing where they lead directly to the portals of the house, as is frequently seen on some of our old South- ern estates The best trees for such purpose are the Sugar Maple, American Elm, Red Oak, and European Linden. The trees should be planted alternately rather than directly opposite, and should be at least thirty-five feet apart, set back from five to ten feet from the edge of the drive; of the evergreens the White and Austrian Pines and the Norway Spruce are the most suitable. SPECIMEN LAWN TREES Specimen trees planted on the lawn should be low branched unless it is desirable to maintain a view under the overhanging limbs. Surface rooting trees, such as the soft or Silver Maple, should not be used, as it is difficult to maintain a lawn under them. The Oaks (Fig. 89) are deep rooted and almost unsurpassed as lawn specimens. The Sugar Maple, the large growing Magnolias, Kentucky Coffee, American Ash (Fig. 90) and English Ash, Sweet Gum and the Elms, are among the best deciduous trees. Specimen evergreens are greatly desirable and add to the Winter aspect. Such splendid trees as Nordmann’s Fir, Cedar of Lebanon and Deodora Cedar (Fig. 91), Hemlock Spruce, Silver Fir, Blue Spruce (Fig. 92) and White Pine are among the most important. If one has a love of trees, it is in the individual lawn specimens that a great variety may be had and, if care be used in the placing, the unity will still be preserved. As advised for specimen planting along drives, avoid straight lines. Keep the larger trees toward the back and do not crowd along the property line; place the smaller varieties toward the point of view. 94 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 87.—Groupings of trees and shrubs along curved driveways are artistic and_ pleasing. Lines of trees should be avoided.—See page 93 LAWN GROUPINGS The lawn plantations or groups, those which are planted in the middle distance, should be pleasing in outline and so placed as to accentuate the view to some pleasing object beyond. The plants should be so arranged in the group that the outline is flowing and not stiff and regular. For the general arrangement and varieties best suited to such groupings we may take some suggestions from Nature, as there are certain trees and shrubs which we frequently find standing apart from woodlands. The Balsam Fir and the White Birch (Fig. 93) make a pleasing combination planted together, also either the Austrian or White Pine and the Beech. The Oriental Spruce, Nordmann’s Fir and Koster’s Blue Spruce (Fig. 92) may be used together in groups with very gratifying results. The Japanese conifers, such as the Retinis- poras, should always be grouped together or with the Arborvites. They do not harmonize well with the coarser leaved conifers. yooyway ajdeyy resns asoy dATIEN poomsoq aityM RlaIpad ssoulyD sepnf ssouedef aulg ueljsny JOooy MOTIPZA, ysng [1e2q auld UM ag UeIEqIS xog os0y SululyS WOM S,uyol 3S qeig s,Jeqoeg u1Oy MEY Ysypsu_ UNUINGIA paave[-a[dey wByAIOqIy ALDYO UeIIUIOD Alioqieg ssouvdef poomsoqg onig auIUsef MOT[IA dIJ VIUIISIM aWUDAY UOUMOD apponssauo0y 4 ARO ERIS Ig sepsnoq BIPEqy PlqsH Allaqieg woulwl0d eautN009 sNdIING Isejsnoq esns}yopnosg URISLI eCUISSIFULISeIJ VIDOTUOT eIOpIpueis elpqy SHUeZ[NA Sleqiog aWDAT UOWULOD Ap4svA "UDN~ “oN flay sisuopeueo esnsy I th puepres MouS uimieyooes OY I ev YPllg Jas syiumny esoyq SL ch poomso0g oy AL epuoy snuioj of IPF snidg ead sisuduls RJaIpsy) I oF | ArraqueiD ysng ssouedef eotuodel say SL OF eoeuysne snug $§ ge eyoytide eziyssoyqwuex se LE eIOpIpuess vpioysoxy OL OF snqons snuig € S€ suaosaioqie eueseiey SI fre NSuOWIS JaJseaU0}0D 09 =~FE umnuelasofy wnoadApy «OSI ff SulIaMoy-9]qn0qd s,Jayyoog ‘sisuauo] snifq zc ze eYULIAXO SNBBWwIDQ § re uINnTOsI1s9e WNuINqIA Og Of sljequapiooo eAnyL I 6z "seul SnuIOD OF gz Wsiequinyy, SWeqiag $1 Lz eyOsurs}e snuUIOD OZ gz umiopipnu wnurusef SL Sz umnpidsiy xviAqsolagjg € bz fava “UDNE “ONT fay eRyaioqiy [epureiAg quefg Apgioqng png pet PPIpsD ssoulyd salayD ssouvdef yurg easuvIpAP Pdavo[-YeO yoopuaH TEPID §,390Y9S u1oyMePY ysisuq qeig SsuLaMO[y apyonsAouoyY ysng ojdey aesng yTeqMous asouvdef Wyq UeOWYy vpqy PHqsH aUuTg Y9}OIS PII. OYA. APO port aWDAy UoWMOD usiaqunyy exmdg of z vant Bnjog I zz eploy snuioj oF Iz ediesourjau snifg OS 02 WIN}eIVIp wNuingIA O09 OI sijeprurerAd ‘1000 BAYT I gi WYyIWA eeTppug oF LI SISUdPeURD STII OF QI sisuouls BpPaipsyy I SI vasor eotuodel snseiay) I tI eyoyloronb wasueipAyH OL ET gisuopeueo eins, I zi my0ysg sniediunf I II VYULIAXO SNBRLIDQ OF O1 epunqioy snidig_ I 6 IMOIOPY LIQIIUOT OL 8 wnieysoes aay OT L winsozwUIUIO} UINUAINGIA Sz 9 VUBITIDWIL SNUITQ, z s elopipueis vijqy og + stajsaajAs snuig & © soploliey sodAjyopoyy 09 Zz eiqnisnoionng z I fijaiuvA *uDN_ ‘ON fiaxy Aemoatip poasno v Buoye Bulyueld onstjenyeu y— gg “BL4—NVTd ONIINVTd OL AFX 96 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING ONE OF THE BEST TREES FOR THE LAWN Fig. 89.—Pin Oak (Quercus palustris). Among other requirements, specimen lawn trees should be low branched. The Pin Oak fulfils every requirement.—See page 93 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS - 97 THE AMERICAN ASH MAKES A DESIRABLE SPECIMEN Fig. 90.—American Ash (Fraxinus americana). A quick growing type of desirable lawn tree.—See page 93 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING A SUITABLE SPECIMEN TREE FOR SMALL LAWNS Fig. 91.—Deodora Cedar (Cedrus Deodara). Recommended as a specimen lawn tree. Of beautiful form and foliage; closely related to the Cedar of Lebanon.—See page 93 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 99 ALWAYS REMARKABLE AND ALWAYS DESIRABLE Fig. 92.—Koster’s Blue Spruce (Picea pungens Kosteriana). Well known as a desirable evergreen; tips of foliage of a beautiful blue sheen.—See pages 93 and 94 Groups on small areas should not be overcrowded. If imme- diate effect is desired first arrange for the permanent trees and then others may be added and removed as the desired trees develop. In- dividuals in group plantings should have ample space to show their true characteristics, otherwise they assume a stiff, unnatural habit, and mar the scene they are intended to embellish. It is a question often as to just how much space some trees and shrubs require, so great is the diversity in habit of growth. For the tall growing 100 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING ui THE BARK OF THE WHITE BIRCH OFFERS A PLEASING CONTRAST Fig. 93.—The cut-leaved, pendulous White Birch (Betula alba laciniata pendula) is a good tree for lawn groupings. With its white bark and graceful habit it lends itself to many pleasing combinations.—See page 94 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 101 shrubs, such as the Weigela, Mock Orange, Snowball and Lilac, six feet apart is a good average; three feet will suffice for medium-sized varieties; two feet for the dwarf growing kinds. If these distances are followed it is advisable to set the plants in the turf and leave a space around each plant spaded up; when the grass dies out be- tween the plants, the area may be made into a dug bed. This system is much better than having a dug bed from the first with large, bare spaces between plants. Should conditions favor the dug bed, a ground cover, such as Pachysandra, creeping Phlox, Candy- tuft, Rock Cress or Hypericum may be used to advantage. PLANTING IN LAWN DEPRESSIONS Where depressions occur in the lawn they may be accentuated by plantings on the slopes and high ground, leaving the depression open. PLANTING IN VALLEYS The view down a valley from the house site is always more restful if framed by plantings on the slopes. In arranging the plants place the dwarfer kinds to the base and graduate the height to the top where the trees should predominate. BOUNDARY PLANTINGS Belt plantations (Fig. 94) are always appropriate where it is necessary to create the scene within the grounds or where privacy is desired. When the surroundings are pleasingly planted or the natural conditions are such that the premises under consideration should be treated as a part of a general scheme, then the belt plant- ing must not be continuous but broken to such an extent that it will blend harmoniously with what is already established. Boundary or belt plantations (Fig. 95 on key page 104) should always be more or less sinuous, according to the area of the space we have to work with. Even on the smallest properties the irregular compound curved line is more pleasing than a straight one. The border should always be of greater depth at the corners, for it is here that we should have the greatest height. On small properties the corner plantings become a part of the framework for the resi- dence. Where the area of the grounds is large the border may be extended well into the lawn at points and the bays thus formed will give an idea of greater distance looking from the house. 102 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING VARIETY IN BORDER PLANTINGS Border plantations are too frequently very regular and flat when shrubs alone are used (Fig. 96). The effect is especially displeas- ing when they stand out alone against the open with no back- ground. It is well, therefore, to consider the skyline and introduce trees of various kinds at intervals. If the border is small choose the best of the dwarf sorts, and have the necessary height and variety of contour. In larger borders trees of greater dimensions should be used. A good choice may be made from among the following: Red Maple, Ash, Sugar Maple, Scarlet Oak and Sweet Gum. In addition to height and contour, all of these trees are noted for their splendid Autumn coloring. Large growing treés introduced into the border make it necessary to select shade enduring shrubs to plant under and near them. For such a purpose use Aralia pentaphylla, Weigelas, Viburnum cassi- noides, V. nudum, V. cotinifolium and V. acerifolium, Cornus alter- nifolia and C. paniculata, Hamamelis virginica, Ceanothus ameri- cana and broad-leaved evergreens (Fig. 97). EDGING THE BORDER PLANTINGS Edge the border planting with perennials, annuals and bulbs (Fig. 98), so that the season of bloom may be continuous from early Spring until late Fall. Keep away from bedding Tulips and other bulbs of a like nature in the border. Use Daffodils, Darwin Tulips and similar kinds that may be planted in clumps for naturalistic effect. EVERGREENS IN BORDER PLANTINGS If evergreens are used for a border planting set them in masses rather than as scattered specimens. Plant them in positions where it is desirable to have a Winter screen or where they will help plant- ings in front of them. If used as a background select only kinds that have green foliage. Plants, such as Judas, Golden Bell and Pyrus, together with shrubs having showy fruit, are very handsome against a background of evergreens (Fig. 99). The pyramidal type of evergreen, such as Arborvitz, Cypress and Juniper, are highly recommended for border planting, as they give an accentu- ated note to the scene and add to the picturesqueness more than any other type of plant. 103 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 10| e8ed vag = ‘poos Ajzepnoiqred st uorzeLIsNy[E siya ul Boon, puke JoseqeA\ AuoyuY eeildc jo uoleurquios ay ‘uo WYySteI]s e UeY} SuIseatd aroW st aul] PaAInd e[Nsait ayy ‘saq} -1adoid ysayjews ay uo ueAy “snonuls ssaj Jo aiour aq sAemje plnoys suonezuefd yong . Paisap st Adeatd asayM JO spunois ayy UIYZIM BUd9S 94} 9}2I9 0} ATessad0U SI 7 a19yM azetidoidde sAeM]e ale suotjequeld 3]9g,,—'"p6 ‘BLJI—SONILNV'Id AYVANNO Po TS A 5 PTT eee Sek s Tae > r ~F 7a = a2 tia Si ey SRA oe Tay . a. ae : : : : : oe) Soe uae Ar a Ot ae es ates del sepnft SIsuapeUuBS SIDIaD, «ZI OIE Aiiog ey{OYyD Aer edieoourjpeul eiuoiy oS oI poomsog ary eploy snuiog = €1 of aol YysureA eyEINoued elayne1peoM OL ST AIqUey)USte Use Snjnd@unuangrA 30> ge AL19q MOUS snsOwdoe1 at acaiennant SI yoeurng Sulurys vuyyedos snyy of Lz Allag [e109 SHeS[NA sodreotioydursg $1 zr Boy SUM Soplolay sodAjopoyy 02 gz poomsoq oy AA 4 eploy snuioy SI 11 ALIIqueig WMNSOqUIAION UINTUTIDDeA =SI Sz PALI §,[93Y WNnuUejasoy UNIysNsiT SZ OL XvIAYS asouedel eoodel xe14qgG Ol «(bz e119 9M soploliiay sodsjyopoyy, ~=Sz 6 Asriaqdaays o3vjUZ] WNuINgIA OI Lz sepnf ueojoury sIsuapeues sla) Sz Bg poomsoq AXIS Ballas SNUIOD OI zz dd1L ajpuldg peyieq-y10D snjeye snwmAuony or L eipueueydais esonxey eipueueyda}g of Iz PoomM MOY uinjeyuep unuingiA OF 9 MOUS JO S][IH eqe Aijaqieg ssouedel adiequnyy sieqisg oor $ *puvis susdsoioqie easueipAPY Of Oz yporulayy sisuapeues esnsp €& aquivig SulaMOpy snj}e1opo snqny of OT sug FY AA snqoms snulg ¥ £ UIOY LT UOWUIYSEAA eyepiod snswyeIg SI gi oulg uelijsny eoBLijsne snulg ¢& z ayyonsAauopY ApIey PUISSIJUBISEI] CIONUOT OL LI yoo[mMayL sisuopeueo esnsy fe I IUD AT UOWULOD) fia, “unng) ‘OAT aUWD AT UOWWLOD fijavv A ‘UDND ‘ON hay flay 10| 23ed sag—‘ydnigqe $s3] UMP] 94} Pu pUL/POOM [eINyeuU ey} UIEMJeq YeoIq & axeUI 0} PURPOOM ke suoye Buueld ypeq Y NOILV.LNV 1d LTH€ YO AYVAONNO (66 “8tq) NWId ONILNV1d OL AFM $6 “8t1 “NVId ONILLNVTd 2 ce vat pase aay” ff pl SC ‘ys phn eee ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS _ 105 BORDER PLANTING ALONG A PROPERTY LINE Fig. 96.—Instance of an attractive boundary planting along a property line, affording privacy and adding picturesqueness to the scene.—See page 102 106 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING SPECIMEN TREES IN FRONT OF BORDER PLANTINGS Specimens planted in front of border plantings should always be at the salient points and not in the bays formed by the border outlines. The positions of specimen conifers should not be de- cided without reference to the border plants behind them. Ever- greens with golden foliage should not be placed in front of shrubs with yellow leaves or flowers. Evergreens with blue foliage should not be placed in front of plants with silvery leaves. Strive to estab- lish a contrast, but be careful to preserve good balance and harmony. If an existing plantation, either on the premises or beyond, con- sists of large trees, the specimens planted in the foreground should have foliage that will blend. Use trees of the same variety and depend for contrast on smaller trees and shrubs planted still more to the front. AVOID ODD SHAPED BEDS IN LAWN CENTER The center of the lawn surface should not be broken up with circular or geometrically shaped beds. They destroy the quietude and harmony of the scene. ORNAMENTAL PLANTING ON THE FARM While the farm layout should be thoroughly practical, the farmer who thinks that he must carry this so far that he can find no time or place for anything that is pleasing and beautiful around his residence, lining his highway, or even the field itself, is very wide of the mark. The average farm house of the past few decades and its collection of outbuildings have not been such as to inspire either respect, friendly sentiment or pleasant associations. The result has been that during the last fifty years our rural districts have lost greatly in population, the girls and boys of the farm find- ing more pleasure and enjoyment in the towns and cities. The farm home and its surroundings should be made attractive and inspiring to the occupants, particularly to the younger genera- tion, that they may see in their homes far more that is pleasant and enjoyable than in the tiny cubicles which pass for homes in our great cities. It is not to be supposed that the farmer of average means can purchase fine paintings and works of art, but he can improve his a 07 I NAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS OR -—AINIL WOOTH LY YOTOOD JO SSVIN V aa Sse PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 108 BORDER PLANTING EDGED WITH BULBS AND PERENNIALS Fig. 98.—Ensuring continuous bloom from early Summer until late in Fall.—See page 102 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS _ 109 immediate surroundings at very little cost, making the home a thing of beauty rather than a hideous collection of purely utilitarian conveniences. The first aim in the landscape development should be toward an orderly arrangement of the barns, dairies, poultry yard and other features to be maintained for housing the stock and storing the crops. There is beauty as well as convenience in order. With the buildings located in their proper relation to each other and to the house, and the walk and drive arrangement carefully planned, the question of beautification is made quite simple. All plantings should be composed of trees and shrubs that are very hardy and of easy culture, and for sentimental reasons it is well to select the old standard varieties familiar to old-time farms everywhere (Fig. 100). Among the shrubs the most widely known is the Lilac. Lilacs are perfectly hardy and thrive in almost any soil and position. The varieties have been greatly improved, so that kinds may now be had with single or double flowers and in a wide range of color. The Snowball is another favorite always found with the Lilac in the old-time farmyard. Other familiar kinds are the old-fashioned Sweet Shrub, Golden Bell, Bridal Wreath, Japanese Quince or Fire Bush, Mock Orange, Rose of Sharon and Weigelas. Add to these the Hydrangea and we have a selection that covers a long period of bloom. There is not a place where these old-fashioned and greatly loved varieties may not be used to advantage as a means of ornamentation. Plant them at the corners of buildings, at fence corners, at interior angles, at intersections of walks and drives, and in pairs down the straight walk that leads to barn and garden. The farm barn may have an end or side protected from the stock, which may be changed from an unsightly aspect to one of picturesqueness through the planting of a few hardy shrubs (Figs. 101, 102 and 103). Although the truck garden is a strictly utilitarian feature, it is quite practical and not an extravagance to provide space for a small flower garden between the truck garden and the house, a sort of an anteroom to the strictly prosaic feature beyond. The flower garden should not be large; it would be an error to make it so, and some of the space in the beds should be given over 110 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING PYRAMIDAL EVERGREENS IN BORDER PLANTINGS Fig. 99.—Verveene’s Arborvite (Thuya occidentalis Verveneana). A good type of pyrami- dal evergreen.—See page 102 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS | III ORNAMENTAL PLANTING ON THE FARM Fig. 100.—A planting of old-fashioned shrubs around a farm house.—See page 109 Fig. 101.—Usual type of farm barn, entirely devoid of planting.—See page 109 112 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING QUITE DIFFERENT AND ALTOGETHER TO BE PREFERRED Fig. 102.—An attractive planting of hardy trees and shrubs against the side of a farm barn. A constant pleasure to the farmer and his family.—See page 109 a A FURTHER IDEA OF HOME GROUND IMPROVEMENT Fig. 103.—Planting at the intersection of the highway and the road to the farm barn. It raises the value of farm property.—See page 109 113 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS pl | e3ed uo uaats uondiuosap aag “Aq13adoid Wuej pfo ue UO UapIes a[qeyaBaa [pews equewueuiQ—'pQ| “Sy a1 HWE a x _ = i ee = “Gyn g > Qawvwvroaso as sue fo a4 aie. eae 8 eC encon neq~oie “| pu Bao Fess |e, RAAT Lo = eae h - aati I x , = SVasinoroues : Beaune mous. ey SS ne | OO q awe SP ion we SRS acts ee ee oly ase 2 2 egy soqay band ae aes. pa Syeiuusses a —soasr, | -_ Promise SBSH SN = ere SA ene est aie ¢ t onl Se be wile naravnebet f 1 Awd eB gens ow: z2s | | d q ve a) ae or a EPO VE 5 b PP oF m3 io 4g i oF =I VV 114 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING to the smaller vegetables and herbs, keeping the flower borders along the walks. In the old-time gardens these borders were defined by box edging or stone curbing. When stones were used they were whitewashed each Spring when the buildings and the fences receive their annual coat. I recall a charming old garden which had been laid out along these lines (Fig. 104). The flower borders were four feet wide and the walks, of the same dimension, divided the area into four equal rectangles. On the axis of one of the walks, which was a continua- tion of a walk paralleling the front of the house, stood an old Catha- rine Pear, perched on a little mound, that formed a quiet resting place under the overhanging branches. The Pear was the center of the little lawn, about thirty feet square, partially enclosed by three clumps of Lilacs, and was the dominant note in the scene, standing stately and serene. At each corner of the garden and at the intersection of the walks were specimen shrubs, sixteen in all, and between them, back of the garden beds, were placed the Currant and Gooseberry bushes. In the flower beds were planted the herbs, and those old-fashioned garden favorites, Paonies, Chrysanthe- mums, Larkspurs, Sweet Rockets, and Flags, preceded in the Spring by hundreds of yellow Daffodils, making a scene worthy of reproduction on every farm in the land. SUMMARY Briefly expressed, the use of ornamental trees and shrubs for the embellishment of a scene must be along lines that are both esthetic and practical. The selection of a particular plant or group of plants for a given position should be for the reason that it best suits that place, a point to be determined by a careful study of the best prin- ciples of landscape design. Simplicity and repose should be key- notes. Avoid the use of too many varieties and only as isolated specimens should abnormally shaped plants be admitted. Groups should consist of carefully selected units, all blending to make a pleasing whole. From a practical viewpoint the success of any planting depends largely on the vigor and robustness with which the plants grow. Select plants best suited to the physical conditions in the locality. With splendid assortments to choose from in every section it is de- cidedly wrong to waste time and effort in trying to nurse along plants unsuited to local conditions. ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 115 TREE PLANTING All plantings should be preceded by careful preparation of the soil. Lawn trees are permanent features and as such every detail of the planting should have close attention. This will insure a healthy growth and proper development. Holes for trees should be at least a foot wider than the spread of the roots and at least twenty-four inches deep, unless for a large specimen, when it should be proportionately deeper. In heavy clay soil, where the water is apt to collect and remain, the holes should be dug deep enough to afford good drainage. If the clay extends some depth proper drainage may be insured by placing broken stone in the bottom of the holes. Tree holes should be made as large or larger at the bottom than they are at the top (Figs. 105 and 106). Too often holes just the reverse are prepared. All broken or bruised roots should be cut off clean. Holes should be sufficiently large to allow of spreading all roots in a natural position. Good soil should be provided for the planting, and very dry and fine soil worked in carefully around the roots and thoroughly tamped so that no spaces remain. Avoid planting too deeply (Fig. 107). Trees should be set just a very little lower than they have been growing in the nursery. Avoid mounding up right around the stem after planting (Fig. 108). When this little hump gets dry and hard it makes a shed for that water which should penetrate to the roots. A slight depression is much better and provides a cup for holding the moisture (Fig. 109). After planting, a good mulching over the root areas will conserve the moisture and greatly benefit the tree. If the tree is three or five inches or more in caliper set wire stays to keep it straight and to protect against any loosening of the roots (Fig. 110). PRUNING The tops of all trees should be reduced at least one-third by pruning back when transplanting. This will overcome somewhat the loss of feeding roots and conserve the amount of sap in the trees until new feeding roots are formed. PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 116 yd YY Uy =. ill yaya i G| | e8ed aag—surquejd uaym $001 94} dwiesd 03 Aes rsaoou WI Bulyew ‘“8np aie sajoy 9ai3 Auew Kem UYL—90| “B14 ONLINV 1d Sau. Uj Yi -~ = Ys Ba SS Gl ased aag—'s}001 ayy yno Buipeaids 10; aoeds ajdwe MOT[e 0} se os doz oy] 3e ueY} wWi0}j0q ay} 3 JaBIE] Jo a81e] se aq pjnoys saoy a4,—"GQ| “BLY ONLLNV1d FaaL 117 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS cll ased 9sa¢—'s}oo1 ayy 07 Yy8no1yy a7e[OdIed 0} aoueyo eB Uled ay} AAID) “Bulqueld 1aqye Wa}s ay} punoze dn 8urpunour Prloay—‘gOl 3I4 ONILNV Td Ada Aull G| | Bed sag —soliasinu 9yj ut But -MO18 atam Kay] Udy ueyy Jamoy 97731] & ysnl yes aq p[noys saat] *£[daap 00} paqued a21,—Z0Ol 814g ONLLINV1d Aaa 4 aah a ike 4 a iam, ae MN We tA MS Ah, , Se eyo A ti i PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 118 6l| 2ed vag —Buruejd a10jaq Paty 94 pynoys punoy sajoy qod [[@ ‘padwiez A;y8no -10y} 9q = pjnoys afoy ayy Jo wWo3}0q * ayy sajoy 224] MO]q 0} pasn st ay -euAp uayA\ ‘2[oy payweukp e ur paqued acer] e& Jap -un ajoy jod e But PONG Ea otal ONILLNV 1d Sau SII aBed sag—‘Bulhems quaaaid = 0} payne} ye sauIM aAey prnoys $391} paquejdsuel Apuacay— Ol] “BLY ONILINV1Td AdNL GI | 28ed aag—ainystow ay} urea 07 dnd e saptAoid = yotym Buruejd Jaqje wos a4} punose uotls ssaidap ayatjs & MolTy—"60| “814 ONILNV'Td Aaah ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS _ 119 All such pruning should be done carefully, making the cuts clean and close up to a bud or stem, so that no stubs remain to die back and cause injury. Hard wooded trees such as the Oaks and Hickories must be cut back hard as they are apt to have fewer feed- ing roots than the softer wooded trees. Do not waste time and material on a poor specimen. Secure good, healthy trees with good root system and, if possible, trees that have been frequently trans- planted. TREE PLANTING WITH DYNAMITE The blowing of tree holes with dynamite is to be recommended from the standpoint of economy alone. A good, big tree hole is much more easily dug if the ground has first been loosened with dynamite. The Joosening of the soil aids root growth and affords easy pene- tration of moisture to the root feeding areas. One-half a stick of forty per cent. dynamite is usually sufficient for a hole. One thing to avoid in planting trees in dynamited holes is the pot hole (Fig. 111), formed by the gases at the time of the explosion. Holes are not dug deeply enough after the explosion and this hole is allowed to remain. After a few rains have loosened the soil above it drops down to fill up the hole, leaving roots uncovered, often resulting in the loss of the tree. All dynamited holes should be gone over carefully with a long pole or bar so that the earth will settle into any deep holes that may have been formed. MOVING LARGE TREES On new estates quick results are often desired and may be secured by the planting of large specimen trees (Fig. 112). The same principles apply to the moving of these large specimens as apply in all instances of tree transplanting. The trees must be carefully dug, preserving the small feeding roots even though they extend for a distance of from fifteen to twenty feet away from the trunk. As these are uncovered they should be tied up in bundles and bent out of the way, and protected with straw or burlap care- fully wrapped around the roots. If the trees are very large and heavy special apparatus must be secured for their proper handling. The method of moving large trees with a six or eight foot ball 120 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING of earth, cutting off all roots extending beyond, is not as satisfactory as tree moving where the roots are combed out and preserved. ROOT PRUNING When it is desired to move a large tree from one portion of the estate to another, the specimen should be root pruned at least one year in advance of the transplanting. This is accomplished by digging a trench about twelve inches wide, five or six feet away from the trunk, or a distance proportionate with the size of the tree, and filling the trench with soil and well-rotted manure to induce an added growth of small fibrous roots. When moving large trees the head should be reduced somewhat to balance the loss in roots. CARE OF TREES AND SHRUBS Much of the beauty in plant life is in the healthy, vigorous growth, enabling the tree or shrub to put forth its best effort in pleasing foliage and abundant bloom and fruit. Continual and systematic attention should be given to the proper nourishing, watering and pruning of all trees and plants. The majority of our plants are existing under more or less unfavorable conditions and need this attention. If plants are kept in a healthy, vigorous condition the suscepti- bility to insect, fungus, and scale attacks will be reduced to a minimum.. Trees planted in the lawn should have the sod removed from about them occasionally and a feeding of hardwood ashes, humus or well rotted manure applied. Such applications should extend to the area of the spread of the branches and not be confined to a very limited area immediately around the trunk. When trees are kept mulched the mulching should be loosened occasionally to insure a free circulation of air. All dead branches should be removed from trees, and all inter- fering limbs. This should be attended to at regular intervals. Neglect of proper pruning often causes irreparable damage to trees through heavy winds or ice storms. ; All flowering shrubs should be properly and systematically pruned to insure an abundance of flower and fruit. Do not cut shrubs back during the Winter regardless of the variety or blooming season. Spring blooming shrubs, which of a necessity must form 121 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 6| | a8ed aac —paquejdsues] Ajquavad Alaa 919M WY 84} pue apdey,] SJatAy PY], $9919 a8ie] Butsn Aq painoas yao 97 eIpauUUT surmoys—'Z| | “Bty GALNVIdSNVUL ATLNAOAY SAAYL ADVI 122 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING flowering wood the season previous, should be pruned just after they have flowered. Lilacs, Golden Bell, Japanese Quince and similar Spring blooming shrubs are in this class. The pruning should not be too severe, simply enough to keep the plants in shape and to allow sunlight and air to all parts. The Fall flowering shrubs, such as the Rose of Sharon and Hydrangeas, bloom on wood made during the immediate Summer. Such shrubs should have a vigorous Winter, or early Spring pruning. INSECT PESTS Insect pests attacking trees and shrubs are mostly of two kinds: those that injure by eating the foliage, such as the Elm Leaf Beetle, and those that injure by sucking, such as the various scales and plant lice. For the leaf chewing insects a spraying with some poisonous substance that will readily adhere to the leaves is most effective. Paris green and arsenate of lead are recommended. These sub- stances may be purchased in commercial form, prepared for such use, and accompanied by full instructions for proper application. For scales and plant lice some remedy that kills by contact must be applied. Kerosene and soap emulsions are the best. A wide band of burlap tacked around the tree with an overlap is very useful in arresting the progress of caterpillars. Such over- laps should be turned frequently and the caterpillars destroyed. THE FLOWER GARDEN 123 CHAPTER VII THE FLOWER GARDEN The highest personal note in the art of landscape design is the flower garden, and no scheme of landscape development is com- plete, no matter how small the property, which does not provide space for a garden. It is in the garden that our individual fancies as to the choice and arrangement of flowers may be indulged. There we may have a profusion of flowers, harmony of color, charm of ef- fect and, above all, seclusion and restful quiet; for the growing of flowers is indeed the simplest yet most satisfying of pleasures. We would emphasize again that fitness is the very foundation of all artistic excellence and in none of the arts is this more appli- cable than in garden design. The flower garden, although a separate unit in the general landscape, and subject in itself to a greater free- dom of treatment, must be in harmony with its surroundings. If the house is of simple design simplicity must dominate the garden. That the charming box-bordered gardens of Colonial days were so in keeping with the residence was due largely to the simplicity of design—gardens with not only unpretentious outlines, but the variety of plants so limited that very simple color combinations resulted. It is most gratifying to witness, since more attention is being given to the arrangement of the home surroundings, that the mis- cellaneous beds, which in former years were scattered over the lawn in a most heterogeneous fashion, are gradually being supplanted by the more orderly arrangement of plantations confined to the boun- dary lines of the property, bordered driveways or paths, or within enclosed areas, as formal or informal gardens. CLASSIFICATION OF GARDENS Enclosed gardens are by no means of modern origin. Space may not be given here to a full classification of various types of gar- dens, but it will be well to consider briefly those which have had great influence in the development of our present day garden. Of these, the Italian, French and English gardens are most important. 124 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING The Italian gardens did not depend on floral ornamentation for their chief beauty. While not entirely devoid of flowers they were mostly appreciated for their architectural embellishments. Built upon three levels, ample opportunity was afforded for retaining walls, capped with balustrades of the most ornate character. The use of water in the garden was brought to its greatest perfection by the Italian architects. Remarkable water effects were achieved within a small compass and with little quantity. The French gardens were also very architectural in design, but more extensive in area. Much.consideration was given to vistas, particularly along diagonal lines. Many plants trimmed to formal outlines were used. Even the trees were treated as units in the architectural scheme, to be pruned and fashioned in harmony with the structural parts of the garden. The Italian and French gardens, though softened by the elements of time and made interesting by the charm of romance, are not so satisfying as are the English gardens. The English garden exists more for its flowers and, although not devoid of architectural fea- tures, the masonry is softened by the abundant display of flowering plants. It is from the English garden and its flowers that we shall derive the greatest inspiration for our own gardens. It is to the flower garden as an enclosed feature, of formal or informal design, that these notes will chiefly apply. The flower garden should be treated as a unit in the general scheme and the principal views of the garden should be considered from the house. It should be an enclosure separated from the lawn by a wall or hedge. Such a scheme provides privacy and seclusion for those who would walk or work among the flowers; it is a pro- tection to the growing plants and, in concealing this feature from without, leaves something to the imagination and more to be appre- ciated from a vantage point in the house. GARDEN DIMENSIONS AND DESIGN —GARDEN ENTRANCE The principal entrance to the garden (Fig. 113) should be from the house and on an axis with some important door or window. It is from this point that we receive our first impression, and it should be so featured that the whole scene unfolded creates in the be- holder that delight, fascination, allurement and complete sense of 125 THE FLOWER GARDEN rel ased 99S — PAV] ssnoy 94} Molaq sued auo0 UO [[Y “Wool SULAT] 94} jo sxe ay} UO uapies J9MOlJ—"E | | “BLy 126 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING rest which afford to lovers of nature the highest type of enjoy- ment. The garden should radiate an atmosphere of hospitality, creating an irresistible desire to stroll within and enjoy all the wealth of form and fragrance of foliage and flower. The garden will always be more restful if placed on a level below the house grades (Figs. 114 and 114A), requiring steps for the descent. Definiteness may be given to the garden entrance by an arch formed of plants in the enclosing hedge, or of metal or wood, fram- ing some enticing water feature beyond. Should it be necessary to place the garden on a higher level the approach should be broad and easy. Step risers should never be more than six inches and the tread should be at least fourteen inches. The dimensions and shape of the garden are matters which will be influenced more or less by the residence and the configuration of the ground. The area of the garden, however, should always ex- ceed that covered by the house. Where the property is rather narrow the greater dimension of the garden should extend in the direction of the greater dimension of the property. When planning the garden the amount of care necessary for the proper upkeep should be borne in mind and the space designed accordingly, as it is necessary that the garden should at all times be in as nearly perfect condition as possible. A flower garden adjoining a house should have some space between it and the house proper as the foreground to the floral scene beyond. The rectangular design of beds in gardens possesses the greatest character and displays the plantations within the beds to the best advantage. This is specially so with the oblong enclosures. In square or nearly square gardens (Fig. 115), curved lines give-a greater variety, especially within a small compass. To add to the interest the design should always include a central feature, either a pool, bird bath, or even a sundial, although the latter is more appropriately placed in a more isolated position. The central feature may be oblong, circular, elliptical, or a com- bination of the square and the circle. In some instances it is advantageous, where the distance is not too great, to extend the garden from the house to the party line (Fig. 116—See page 136), arranging it so that it will come between the pleasure grounds and the service portion. THE FLOWER GARDEN ‘uapses styy jo ued sunueld sMoys (67 ‘8Z| S288q)—VPl] ‘By ‘OZI ased 99g — *99e119} ISNOY 9Yz MO[aq [PAZ] UO Usprer)— yl | 814 128 Key No. DIAM PWHH 2 H eI AMWLWHN WHHHNNWHNDKN Oo” 46 Quan. 8 10 9 10 15 H Hw MHIAMNAKIADAAMAIA 4 HHUUWATO OMNI OY HHHH HH POWH OOM H NNN a H NYY UUMUUNPUWOUNMOMOUWA PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Variety Aconitum Napellus Delphinium chinense Pentstemon barbatus hybrids Gypsophila acutifolia Coreopsis lanceolata Helenium Hoopesii Aconitum Napellus Achillea, The Pearl Phlox, Miss Lingard Phlox Sieboldi Aconitum Napellus Lupinus polyphyllus Aster levis Hollyhocks Allegheny Aster nove anglie rosea Delphinium elatum Anchusa Italica Dropmore var. Physostegia virginica Delphinium elatum Delphinium elatum Boltonia latisquama Anchusa Italica Dropmore var. Delphinium elatum* Aster novi belgii climax Hollyhocks Allegheny Heliopsis Pitcheriana Aconitum Napellus Phlox, Miss Lingard Phlox, Rheinlander Phlox Sieboldi Aconitum Napellus Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha Aster levis Hollyhocks, double red Aquilegia chrysantha Phlox W. C. Egan Chrysanthemum St. Illoria Phlox Queen Juniperus Cannarti Juniperus Pfitzeriana Juniperus Cannarti Dianthus barbatus Newport Pink Godetias (annual) Campanula persicifolia Iris aurea Gypsophila paniculata Digitalis purpurea Aquilegia cerulea Phlox amena Pentstemon barbatus Sedum spectabile Aquilegia chrysantha Chrysanthemum Julia Lagravére Phlox Baron von Dedem Calliopsis (annual) Anemone Japonica Queen Charlotte Papaver orientale Doronicum excelsum Delphinium chinense alba Phlox Independence Phlox Coquelicot Dianthus barbatus, white Gaillardia grandiflora KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.—Fig. 1144—See pages 130 and 131 Common Name Monkshood Chinese Larkspur Beard’s Tongue Baby’s Breath Tickseed Early Sneezewort Monkshood Double White Yarrow Early Phlox White Tall Vermilion Phlox Monkshood Lupine Lavender Hardy Aster Fringed Hollyhocks ° Pink Hardy Aster Tall Larkspur Alkanet Obedient Plant Tall Larkspur Tall Larkspur Starwort Alkanet Tall Larkspur Pink Hardy Aster Fringed Hollyhocks Orange Sunflower Monkshood Early Phlox, white Salmon Pink Hardy Phlox Vermilion Hardy Phlox Monkshood Yellow Hardy Chrysanthemum Lavender Hardy Aster Double Red Hollyhocks Yellow Columbine Light Lavender Phlox Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum White Phlox Pyramidal Cedar Spreading Cedar Pyramidal Cedar Pink Sweet William Peach-leaved Bellflower Yellow Flag Baby's Breath Foxglove Rocky Mountain Columbine Early Phlox Pink Beard’s Tongue Live Forever Yellow Columbine Red Hardy Chrysanthemum Red Hardy Phlox Pink Japanese Anemone Oriental Poppy Leopard’s Bane White Chinese Larkspur White Hardy Phlox Scarlet Hardy Phlox White Sweet William Blanket Flower 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 oS = a8 H HH H H H HH HH HHH OW DOOVIOIOW SOON BIYUUNN OUWNOUNONIAIIIUNANIATIWUUMNATIUAIUNUUUNNDOUNOWOIUNNHTMANIUMNMOINM THE FLOWER GARDEN 129 KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.—Fig. 1144—Continued Variety Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha Sedum spectabile ‘‘ Brilliant ”’ Coreopsis lanceolata Phlox amcena Iris Kempferi Gypsophila elegans Aquilegia canadensis Dianthus Newport Pink Dianthus barbatus white Coreopsis lanceolata Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen Dianthus Newport Pink Rudbeckia Newmanni Gaillardia grandiflora Heuchera sanguinea Gypsophila paniculata Phlox divaricata Veronica longifolia subsessilis Delphinium elatum Gypsophila paniculata Aster amellus elegans Platycodon grandiflorum Aconitum Napellus Delphinium chinense Pentstemon Torreyi Lupinus polyphyllus Scabiosa japonica Delphinium, Gold Medal Hybrids Aster novi belgii Heiderose Iris pallida dalmatica Coreopsis lanceolata grandiflora Campanula glomerata Iris Kempferi Phlox divaricata Delphinium elatum Veronica longifolia subsessilis Rose Christine Wright Stokesia cyanea Gypsophila paniculata Aquilegia vulgaris Phlox Miss Lingard Centaurea montana Dianthus plumarius Iris pallida dalmatica Dianthus plumarius Homer Plumbago Larpente Platycodon grandiflorum Coreopsis grandiflora Iris Kempferi Aster blue (annuals) Pezonia l’Esperance Funkia cerulea Delphinium formosum Lilium candidum Potentilla Vulcan Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen Aquilegia vulgaris Dianthus barbatus, white Delphinium chinense Geum coccineum Plumbago Larpente Platycodon grandiflorum Dianthus plumarius Homer Coreopsis grandiflora Iris Kempferi Iris pallida dalmatica Lilium candidum Delphinium —flormosum Potentilla Vulcan Common Name Golden Chrysanthemum Live Forever Tickseed Early Pink Phlox Japanese Iris Baby's Breath Red Columbine Pink Sweet William White Sweet William Tickseed Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum Pink Sweet William Black-eyed Susan Blanket Flower Coral Bells Baby's Breath Early Blue Phlox Speedwell Tall Larkspur Baby's Breath Early Aster Bellflower Monkshood Chinese Larkspur Beard’s Tongue Lupine Blue Bonnet Tall Larkspur Hardy Aster Lavender Iris Tickseed Clustered Bellflower Japanese Iris Early Blue Phlox Tall Larkspur Speedwell Climbing Pink Rose Stoke’s Aster Baby's Breath Columbine Early White Phlox Hardy Cornflower Snow Queen Lavender Flag, White, Pink Hardy Pink Leadwort Bellflower Tickseed Japanese Iris Pink Peony Blue Day Lily Tall Larkspur Madonna Lily Crimson Cinquefoil Pink Chrysanthemum Columbine Sweet William Chinese Larkspur Avens Leadwort Bellflower Hardy Pink Tickseed Japanese Iris Lavender Flag Madonna Lily Dark Blue Larkspur Crimson Cinquefoil PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 130 ATM Shh val ‘a aA AL ZE| PUP 6ZI ‘8ZI sased ose ‘97 ased 22S pl | “Sty Ul payesysny[t uapses ayy 07 Aoyx sutueyd pue uejg Vrll “3 31 | THE FLOWER GARDEN 132 145 149 150 I5I 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 187 189 190 191 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200 201 202 oS HHH g nODONIUMOONA s H HoH HH H HHH H OWIMAUIIUVONDODADHONDOUNIUNIOOONH HDIIUMNUNW A104 H 4 HH noo w ° oO HH Sen OVHMIIUIMNIIUUO OMY es oO PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.—Fig. 114A—Continued Variety Aquilegia vulgaris Funkia ovatus Dianthus barbatus Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen Linum perenne Centaurea montana Delphinium elatum Aquilegia vulgaris Gypsophila paniculata Clematis Davidiana Veronica longifolia subsessilis Phlox divaricata Campanula Dahurica Stokesia cyanea Coreopsis longifolia grandiflora Aster levis Delphinium, Gold Medal Hybrids Lupinus polyphyllus Pentstemon barbatus hybrids Iris pallida dalmatica Platycodon grandiflorum Aconitum Napellus Scabiosa japonica Delphinium elatum Gypsophila paniculata Veronica longifolia subsessilis Delphinium chinense Phlox amoena Sedum spectabile Geum coccineum Aquilegia chrysantha Chrysanthemum Julia Lagravére Pentstemon barbatus Phlox Rheinstrom Gypsophila paniculata Digitalis purpurea Iris Kempferi Iris aurea Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha Dianthus Newport Pink Aquilegia chrysantha Papaver orientale Delphinium chinense alba Anemone japonica Queen Charlotte Doronicum excelsum Phlox Coquelicot Digitalis purpurea alba Gaillardia grandiflora Dianthus barbatus, white Gladiolus Wm. Falconer Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha Sedum spectabile Coreopsis lanceolata Phlox ameena Iris Kempferi Gypsophila paniculata Aquilegia canadensis Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen Dianthus barbatus, white Coreopsis grandiflora Gaillardia grandiflora Peonia Van Houttei Rudbeckia fulgida Heuchera sanguineum Gypsophila paniculata Buxus pyramidalis Juniperus Cannarti Dwarf Box for edging Tall Pink Geraniums Crategus Oxycantha Common Name Columbine Blue Day Lily Sweet William Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum Hardy Flax Hardy Cornflower Tall Larkspur Blue Columbine Baby's Breath Perennial Clematis Speedwell Early Blue Phlox Bellflower Stoke’s Aster Tickseed Hardy Aster Lavender Tall Larkspur Lupines Beard's Tongue Lavender Flag Japanese Bellflower Monkshood Blue Bonnet Tall Larkspur Baby’s Breath Speedwell Chinese Larkspur Early Pink Phlox Live Forever Avens Yellow Columbine Red Chrysanthemum Beard's Tongue Salmon Pink Hardy Phlox Baby’s Breath Foxgloves Japanese Iris Yellow Flags Golden Chrysanthemum Pink Sweet William Yellow Columbine Oriental Poppy White Chinese Larkspur Pink Japanese Anemone Leopard’s Bane Scarlet Phlox White Foxglove Blanket Flower Sweet William Golden Chrysanthemum Live Forever Tickseed Dwarf Early Pink Phlox Japanese Iris Baby's Breath Red Columbine Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum Sweet William Tickseed Blanket Flower Peony Black-eyed Susan Coral Bells Baby’s Breath Pyramidal Box, 4-5’ Pyramidal Cedar, 4-5’ 6-8” Standard Eng. Hawthorn, 6” stems THE FLOWER GARDEN 133 The entire garden area should be on one plane if it is possible to so construct it at not too great an expense. This level should be somewhat below the established grade of the house line (Fig. 113). Where the slope of the ground is too steep for such treatment, two or three levels may be established. A garden constructed on dif- ferent levels may be made very interesting, as it affords an oppor- tunity to introduce many architectural features and to vary greatly the planting on the different planes. GARDEN BACKGROUND It is important to consider the garden from the picturesque point of view. This will include not only the arrangement of the interior beds but, quite as important, the setting of the surrounding plan- tations. The background (Fig. 117) should be dense, of a varied assortment of plants. Where space permits, and the height of the plants will not interfere with the view, make a background of White Pine, Hemlock, Birch, Beech, Maple and Ash. Such a combination will give pleasing contrast at all seasons of the year, especially in the Fall, when the foliage of the deciduous trees turns to brilliant shades of red and yellow. On extensive grounds such a_ back- ground planting may be placed some distance from the garden and particularly so when there is a little rise in the ground beyond the end of the garden. When the garden area extends to the party line it is necessary to provide a high hedge or wall which will rise above the horizon. If a wall is used it should be partly clothed with vines as green is the most satisfactory garden background (Fig. 118). It is pos- sible sometimes to so locate the garden that a natural background on the adjoining property may be taken advantage of. A pleasing effect may often be secured in gardens enclosed by a wall, by introducing flowering trees and shrubs in the plantations immediately without, so that the branches may be trained to hang over the wall to meet the floral ensemble within. GARDEN ENCLOSURES The garden in the sense that it is used in these paragraphs refers to a portion of the estate set aside as an enclosed feature. An en- closure provides privacy and seclusion to those who would walk or work among the flowers; it is a protection to the growing plants, 134 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 115—-See page 135 PLANTING PLAN. Fig. Qo ST 70 Zo Bo =p Qi Ge NS “In square or nearly square gardens curved lines give a greater variety, especially within a small compass 135 THE FLOWER GARDEN xo[yd ApreH AU Jojsy [enuuy Asieq o1y Asueg payny angzuoy s,pieag AV] urequeld indsy1ieT ostpuy xoTYd 93UM auldny] AIT urequeyd Jaysy ouldyy dUTqUINJOD MOT[PA Asieq ueoljy adoso1aH eiunjodg Asutg pen ueqNS JMS Asreq o101y uoseipdeus xojyd Aprey AU WINUWayuesAIYyD YUlg qoMazaauS AVA wnwoyjuessiyD ApieH eiunjod sisdoai0Dg yenuuy plosuey 10d Asutg peyny euaqioA eunqedg ado1j 019 ado1j01]aH punjag llempaeds xo[yd Ajaeq uodeipdeus XOTUd PYM JIeMpP-TWeS Jojsy Jenuuy indsyiey] osIpuy auUDAT UuOULUOD Teqdue yeqezg xoigd g te oyIYM [[2} ‘WaIsy zi EL wnd!qo1e WNWaYyUeRSAIyD OL zl suapua]ds vaynt efOIA oz «IL 1A9110] UOWA}sJUdg OI OL BolniwZs eryuNny g 69 umsowioj untuIydjaq 9 g9 singssey uA xo[yg Si LQ snyfAyd4jod snurdny or 99 va[niwzd eIyUNY g sg Buld[e iajsy Si to vyquesdAlyo eidajInby zi £9 sIJOJWIW OF Zz uleyaryo adorjoyay oz 19 oyYyM ‘eiunjag SI og uOlPIJIOg OIYAA ‘POI «SI OS yuld ‘sijetedurt eaineyua) of gs ummoijo1e uNuTeyyuesAIyD zi LS yuid ‘umuryijuy or of [leqdureg yjoqezyyq ‘xotyq tr ss VUOT]] FS wNuayuesAIyD gr FS Nsodooyy wintusjayyY Or = &S 10,P 2qo-D WNWeYyyuRsAIyD $I zs dUYM apsuls ‘eluNnjog SI IS sisdoyjeg Si os vainydns enpusey oz oF UuolP—aAPHIg OYA ‘VJOIA ZI gt yuid ‘euaqiaA oz LY VY asus ‘euNjag ZI OF uleyatyD edoijolayy zi SY Ule}alyD edonjoyay zi oth PUYM gFuls ‘eunjag zi eh SI[Issasqns e1[OJIsuC] BIUOINA =Q zh epurury ‘isuepry xo[yg zi It ayYyM ‘uNUIyUuy Or oF ourjq side} xojyq I of ontq ‘193syY OL: gt wnsowi0j wnturydjaq zi Le ~ Kpa1ad A “UDNO ‘ON Kay WNW WURSAIYD IWYAA UTLPOPY INAS wNusyJuRsAIYyO BUY IopuaarT xo[yd Ajreq eng OPYUIMLOg TeISeSEPRIAY ITY AA, J9}sV ,SI4¥OIS ysnig s,Jaqureg euaqioA uoseipdeus Asreq asueiQ uoseipdeus yUulg Asieq o1d1y XO AU ueINS JIMS WOMazaoUS A]IVy Brunia wmnur -oyjursAiyd ApileEE MOTOA JMOL] JOYUL] xoryg Apeq plosiey 30g qynqzApurdg BuaqiaA uoseipdeus Jojsy [enuuy XO1Ud OVUM ysnig §,10UIeg JIMOPTP umur -ayquesAiygQ Apex ay AA indsy1eT O31puy xoyd Apeq TleMpaeds Bey nig Ia}sy ,Sex0IS xo[yd ang Ajieq APUIM ag Iwosesepeyy OYA, BAIOGIY aqo[sy IUD UoULUWLOD St of vojeuyep epyyed say g Se RILIVAIP XOTY zi ve eq[e Basol BOUTA ZI £e BaUvAD BISAYOIG SI Ze udI}DI}IAg MONG wnNjeIsy of IE AYA ‘VusqI9A OZ OF MOTOA ‘UINUTYLIUY OZ 62 vovlqueine eoayjoydiowlg of gz yuid ‘wmuryinuy or Lz wmndt}oIe uNUTaYULSAIYD ZI gz Teqdueg yleqezyq xoTyq SI Sz yuid ‘syeuoedur vainejuag of bz lsadooy wntusjayy ~OL = &z dUYM o[suls ‘elunjog SI Zz 1O,P eqo[D wWnuayyuPsAIyD gl 12 VIOYIPULIT VIPIL[IeD OL Oz a}oIy Isueply Xo[Yg OI 61 vainyd[ns enpusfej ZI gi sudAIodulas sliaqT OL ALI yuid ‘vuaqiaA OZ OL ayy ‘umuryijuy Or SI antq ‘Ia3Isy OI FI SinqsseyT uoA xopyq PI fr UdlPaI}ag ONG win}elasy Of ZI RIOYIpuLiS UOPOdARLI[G Vv Il DUILJIPY INS uNuayjuRsAIyD g OT umsourloy urnturydjaq zi 6 vpurury ‘Isuepiy xo[ygd cI g SI[ISSOSQNs LI[OJISUO] BOTUDIBA L Aog onjg SU] zI 9 BIULAD BISAYOIGS OZ S RPIIVAIP XOYq cI eq[e BvasOI BOUIA ZI Ee Bsogoys sifejuapi990 vANYT zc Zz xog [epluieidg sijepueiAd susosaioqiv snxng ze I MJalad A “UDNC ‘ON say 9Z| a8ed ose ‘p¢| aBed ‘ued Bunqueld vog—‘sseduios [pews e UTYyITM Ajjetoadsa ‘Aya1IeA J0}e0I8 DAIS Sout] P2eAind Uapses oienbs AjsieaU v JO aenbs e U]—"¢] | “BLY GIL “314—NVTd ONILNVTd OL APM 9c1 a8ed aag—uapies 9[421930A oy} Wolly] UME] 24} saplAIp pue our Ajred oy} Je sozeu -IU119} UapIes ayy ‘asnoy ay} jo wioor Bul -Al] 24} UI Joop e jo sIxe 94} UO padeid pue ‘s[a@Aa] OM] UO SUapIes dSOY PUe JOMOY 243 Jo quowaZueie ue ZuIMoys ue[g—9g|| “3I] Vlg Cot SMU A EN\ \SSD = NS \ : \\\ \ x \ % arn IS SQA MAL 137 THE FLOWER GARDEN €E| eed sag—sqn} Ul UY] JoYyZeI puNoss oy} Ul poqued Way] 2BAvY 0} a[qesejead st 3] ‘squeyd 1981] asayy Jo UoIjINposzUT 344 ysnoiy3 peoueyua st ainsy 34} OF MATA oY T, “autfAys 8UI}S919]UIUN dsIMJaYIO UP O07 AJalIeA 9AIB puke dn 31 3jI] sdaytuoo [epiuresrkd pue s20] Aeq ay, LL punos3ypeq papoom e jo adeqUeApe ay} BAeY 0} SB pazeI0] Os pu oUT]INO UT ajduns ‘out] asnoy ay} Moyeq Uspsres Aad AraA W—"/ || “BLY ee eG 2 meh PEST os oT See 4 ETE PE 138 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING affords a background and, in concealing the garden from without, leaves something to the imagination and more to be appreciated from a vantage point in the house. Garden enclosures may be of stone, brick, stucco or plants in the form of a hedge. HEIGHT OF GARDEN ENCLOSURES The height of outer garden enclosures will vary according to the surroundings. Where the outlook is not particularly attractive they may be six or seven feet high. High walls are also a necessity in some localities as a protection to the plants. Where it is thought best to maintain views of the surrounding landscape a wall three to five feet high is sufficient. Subordinate garden walls should not be more than three to four feet high. -On a small place, where the scene must be made within the enclosure, a high wall is necessary. GARDEN WALLS When walls are adopted as an enclosure for the garden they should always be of the same material as the house. If the house walls are stuccoed the sides of the garden wall should also be stuccoed, though, to provide a slight contrast, the piers and coping may be of brick. This refers to gardens which are adjacent to residences. When they are set apart, more or less isolated from the house, the material may differ from that in the building. When walls of stone, brick, or stucco are used for the garden enclosures they should be designed along artistic lines and be in perfect harmony with the scene to be created. GRAY SANDSTONE WALLS Soft gray sandstone (Fig. 118) with an occasional marking of red and orange is the most pleasing stone for the enclosing walls. These should not be less than eighteen inches thick with a footing course to project six inches beyond on each side, making a thickness of thirty inches. The depth of the footing should not be less than eight inches. The depth of the foundation below the frost line will depend on the latitude. In Philadelphia and vicinity the founda- tion should extend to a depth of three feet. 139 ER GARDEN THE FLOW 6Fl ‘OPI ‘BEL ‘EE] 8e8ed 2xag¢—‘au0}s Butdoo sepIUIS YAM s[[eM BuIsopoua auUO}spues AIT) ‘Uapsed ay} Joj Butj}9s poos e sayeur AjJodoid Bututofpe ue uo punoisyoeq yeinqeu a4 J—'g| | “Sty 140 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Stone walls with mortar joints should be less finished in texture than the house walls. The joints should be raked out to a depth of from two to three inches. The shadows produced by this treat- ment have a softening effect and the vines, extending their clinging tendrils into the interstices, seem to be more firmly fixed to the supporting structure. COPING The coping should be of stone similar to that in the body of the wall (Fig. 118), with a projection of two to three inches, according to the roughness of the face. This refers to a coping of stones laid flat. If the coping stones are set on edge they should be set flush with the sides of the wall. The coping should be level along the top. The irregular or so-called scotched coping is not at all satisfactory for a garden enclosure, as it is a line of agitation and most unrestful. BRICK WALLS The brick wall (Fig. 119) as a garden enclosure is not so pleasing from an esthetic point of view as those of other materials. Be- cause of the color it does not make a good background for many of the flowers. If brick is used a dark shade should be selected and laid with a broad mortar joint. A brick wall should not be less than twelve inches thick and should be laid in cement mortar on a good foundation of stone or concrete extending not less than four inches on each side beyond the face of the finished wall. To economize on a quantity of brick the wall may be paneled and piers placed at intervals of from ten to twelve feet apart, using a nine-inch wall between them. An effective and practical wall may be constructed by laying the brick lengthwise, four inches thick, with a two-inch opening between the ends. In this construction the piers should be placed eight feet apart. The coping for a brick wall may be of brick on edge, molded brick, brick laid on an angle of 45 degrees, cement cut stone, or tile. The coping should have a projection of not more than an inch on each side of the wall. A coping set flush is quite agreeable. All brick walls should be clothed with clinging vines trained over the top to break the line and soften the effect. 141 THE FLOWER GARDEN Op] e8ed vag—-quawizea7] soUeIqUA BAT}IeIIVe UL YIM [TEM apes Yu —6ll BY €p| 28ed sag—e}ou papuedxa uo [[eM 099N}s & JO UOTJINIYsUOD ayy Joy [1e}9q—'"0Z| “314 aml ag4Wwoe { a oe SS lola | ze é z 176.7 £2 { PwostaA t£wrceae =i"" ( PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING i red ore meres - ; z it s - . . : j 4: : i a : Sani TNL i . ae é oS Ba BS334Vvwaxs if [= 3 Ms 142 THE FLOWER GARDEN 143 THE STUCCO WALL The stucco wall may be laid on stone, brick, hollow tile, or expanded metal. The usual method is to construct a rough wall on which is laid the first or scratch coat. When this has very nearly set a second coat of the color and texture desired is applied and finished. If the rough wall is built of brick it should not be less than nine inches thick, with a firm foundation of eighteen to twenty inches of stone or concrete, extending below the frost line usually from two to three feet. When building a stucco wall on brick a good effect may be se- cured by having a brick base and brick coping. The base to con- sist of a row of brick on end, projecting one quarter inch beyond the finished mortar surface. The coping should be constructed of a row of brick on edge with a very slight projection on each side of the wall. If hollow tile is used for the rough wall eight-inch tile may be used for walls less than five feet high; for walls above that, twelve inch tiles should be used. The brick base and coping may be effectively used with the hollow tile. Foundation should be the same as is used for brick. Rough stone walls for stucco should not be less than sixteen inches thick for walls five feet high or less. For walls above five feet the thickness should be at least eighteen inches. Foundation should be of stone or concrete, twenty to twenty-two inches thick and ex- tending below the frost line. The most economical stucco wall is that laid on expanded metal (Fig. 120) supported by channel iron set at intervals of one foot, with four channel irons set at intervals of eight feet in the form of a square, six inches apart, as a reinforcement. The cement mortar is worked through the openings in the expanded metal and, after it becomes hardened, the scratch coat is applied to the other side, the mortar clinging to the keys formed by the mortar worked through the openings. The finish coat of the texture and finish desired is then applied. The posts for such a wall should extend to a depth of two feet and be set in concrete. For the remainder of the wall it is only necessary to have the mortar extend six inches below the grade line. The coping should be of mortar two and one-half inches thick, 144 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING beveled on top, with a projection of about one-half inch on each side. All stucco walls should be covered with quick growing vines. Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis Veitchii), Red-berried Euonymus (Euonymus vegetus), and English Ivy (Hedera helix) are suitable. DRY STONE WALLS The rubble stone wall of field boulders is most satisfactory, and, when partly covered by vines, is highly picturesque. The dry wall may also be used to enclose the garden, especially in loca- tions where good rock is to be had on the ground. When used for this purpose they should batter or break back from each side, vines to be planted along the full length at irregular intervals. The vines should not be allowed to cover the entire wall. Rather, for reasons of contrast, and to show decidedly the limitations of the garden and the formidableness of the retaining and supporting walls, quite good stretches of it should be left uncovered. Rubble walls (Fig. 121) are particularly good where a retaining wall is required to maintain an embankment. The dry wall is less expensive than one laid in mortar and gives a greater latitude for ornamental treatment. Quarried stone or stone gathered on the property may be used for this purpose. The larger the stones the better. If the stones are from a quarry they should be as long as it is possible to secure them. The dry wall should have a batter of not less than one inch to the foot, and where it is proposed to use Alpine plants in the inter- stices it is better to have a batter of three inches to the foot. The building of a dry wall for plants is given in greater detail in the chapter on Rock Plants. HEDGES The hedges of various plants are much less expensive and fulfil many requirements as a dividing line between lawn and _ garden. The Privet hedge is the most popular, as its quick growth and dark green leafage form an excellent background in a short period of time. The California Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium), which is most frequently used, is not hardy in some latitudes; the tops are occa- sionally killed to the ground in Philadelphia, and instances are re- ported of the same damage being done in Kentucky. For cold latitudes the variety Ligustrum Ibota is more satisfactory. The 1" OF ‘pp| seded aag—"[aaa] eu UY} aJOUL UO SI THE FLOWER GARDEN 146 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Ligustrum Regelianum is an excellent hedge plant where it is de- sired to have a more picturesque enclosure. This plant is most at- tractive as a boundary to a wild garden, the lights and shadows being highly contrasted, giving a pleasing variety to this formal fea- ture more in tune with naturalistic surrounding. The variety Ligustrum amurense is much the best variety to use south of Washington; it rarely loses its leaves during the Winter and, in the Carolinas, Tennessee and Georgia it is evergreen. The Hemlock Spruce (Tsuga canadensis) (Fig. 122) hedge has been little used of late years, probably on account of its costliness, certainly not because it lacks beauty of outline or texture. The color is excellent ds a background and, after growing to the re- quired height, it is much more formidable in appearance than the deciduous hedges. For quick effect the Arborvitee (Tuya occident- alis) is most valuable. It is practicable to secure specimens of this variety of any height up to seven feet, which is an advantage for instances where it is desired to have an immediate effect. The color is not so good for a background as plants of a darker shade of green but, nevertheless, is recommended as a hedge plant of merit. The general character of the garden will be improved by using piers at the corners and entrance. It adds dignity to the scenes and defines the outline more clearly. In large gardens, where a long line of hedge is somewhat monotonous and at times irregular in alignment, it is well to construct piers at regular intervals, for variety, and to maintain a more regular line than is otherwis possible. : RETAINING WALLS If it is found advisable to construct the garden on more than one level, much thought should be given to the selection of material and the design of the necessary steps and retaining walls. How much more effective is a treatment of retaining walls (Fig. 121) than the slope, so generally adopted for each succeeding level ! Such slopes are difficult to mow and, in a dry Summer, the turf burns out badly. The use of stone as retaining walls between garden levels is not so generally adopted as it should be. The dry stone wall is especi- ally worthy of greater use. The foundations of garden walls should always extend at least two feet six inches below grade and batter 147 THE FLOWER GARDEN Op| a8ed 29G—‘siamoy ay} Joy punoisyxpeq Sulseayd e sayeur Jojoo usei8 yep ayy ‘adnsojoua uapies ay Ic} eBpay [eepl ue suo} yoTWazy UML 7Z1 “BY 6b] 28ed vag—-aienbs sya0/q ao é yeayo ayy ayeur 07 a]qIssod st 71 suasi4 jo Jaquunu [[eWs e ae a194} UdYA\ *S90]q Yaeyo pue sdajs uapies auojs 10J Ue; q—'¢Z| ‘BY —t DS THE FLOWER GARDEN 149 two inches to the foot. The thickness of retaining walls will de- pend on the height it is necessary to make them. As a general tule, a thickness at the base of one-half the height will be found satisfactory. A great deal depends, however, on the physical struc- ture of the soil: a sandy, slippery soil will require a stronger wall than a hard, clayey soil, the latter being more self-retaining. Given a retaining wall with a northwest exposure, a scheme of wall plant- ing is possible; pockets may be left in the wall and filled with soil for plants. Alyssum saxatile, Heuchera sanguineum, Sedums, Arabis albida, Aquilegias, Gypsophila, Valeriana, Santolina, and many other plants, are suitable for such a purpose. GARDEN STEPS Garden steps (Fig. 123) built of stone or brick require a greater breadth of treatment than is necessary for these features in connec- tion with buildings. The risers should be close to six inches, and the tread at least fourteen inches in width. Steps either approaching the garden, or within the enclosure, may be built with cheek blocks at the ends or with the ends built into the slope and planted with Ivy or Euonymus to cover the raw appear- ance. This is more pleasing than the harsh lines of the cheek blocks. PIERS All retaining boundary walls should terminate in piers and the corners and entrances (Fig. 118) of walls and hedges should be defined by similar features. When the piers are built in a garden where a hedge is to be the enclosure, the piers should be from twenty-four to thirty inches wide; the hedge should be kept the same width and not allowed to become wider than the piers. Piers at corners or entrances should be built the same height as the wall and the coping (Fig. 118) returned around the pier as a mark of accentuation. An additional stone placed on top of the coping, and set back six or seven inches from the edge, is very effective. Where the entrance is to be featured by a gate or arch it is necessary to have the piers higher than the wall. Under such con- ditions it is more pleasing to have a ramp (Fig. 124) from the top of 150 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING the wall to a point near the top of the pier. This is more pleasing than to have the pier standing high above the wall. The same treatment should be applied at the intersection of two walls when, for reasons of grade, it is necessary to keep one below the other. If the garden is on several levels and it is necessary to keep the cross walls flush with the grade a ramp (Fig. 125) should be used to tie the side and cross walls together gracefully. WALKS AND BEDS The interior arrangement of walks and beds must be practical and simple in outline, avoiding a complication of geometrical figures which are unrestful and difficult to keep up. Straight lines (Fig. 126) always give more character than curved ones and are much easier to maintain. WALKS—WIDTH The width of the paths will be regulated more or less by the area devoted to the garden, but they should always be as broad as ee —- Fig. 124.—Ramp in wall to meet high pier at garden entrance.—See page 149 151 THE FLOWER GARDEN 0G| e8ed sag—s[jem apts saysty yao 0} dn Butdures s[[em ssory—'C7| “SI | | eee PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 152 0S! a8ed aag—"Bulq}es Surseald B WO} ‘aBpoy Sulsopaua ay} WoIj BDULISIP SUOS VIE YSIYM *yNOYIIM $9913 94} o[IYM ‘Quads ay} 0} 9}0U anbsainzoId & 9AIB siajluod pue siejdog Apiequioy] ey, “J1N} Ul Ja] e1e sx[eM Ssor12 9Y7 Aq pauioy szejd repnBueqoe1 943 pue sxyeM 943 Buoje pasejd are speq sy], “soul] snotquazaidun uo uapies onbseinjoid & Suryeur jo sarqfiqissod ayq smoys sIy]—"97 | “BL more 2 ar Ps eer i errr Sr eS par 153 THE FLOWER GARDEN GG| aded sag—‘sjued SulaMoy jo sjtun sutyseijUu0 ay} aBuese 0} yorym uodn Jojo sulseaid Jo seauto e suIIO] preMsUaeIs ay] “suapies doj a[qesajoid oie sypem PNT — 7/71 BL] PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING —An effective use of brick for a garden walk, with bricks on edge for a border.—See page 155 THE FLOWER GARDEN 155 the space will allow. In the smallest formal garden the minimum width should be four feet for the main paths, while the others may be as small as two and one-half feet. WALKS—MATERIALS Garden walks may be constructed of a variety of materials; among the most popular are gravel, brick, field stones, flagstone, tan bark and turf. The element of color is important and should be given careful consideration. For this reason the grayish tint of crushed stone is not pleasing; limestone is too glaring. TURF WALKS The turf path (Fig. 127) is the most attractive of all. It is pleasant to walk on, restful to the eye, and blends delightfully with the varying shades of color in the plantings. It makes a har- monious groundwork for floral effects desired without fear of dis- cordant contrast. BRICK WALKS Bricks of rich, dark shades (Figs. 128 and 129) are very agreeable for garden walks. Occasional application of boiled linseed oil will darken the surface and give a more beautiful texture. The bricks should be laid in the basket (Fig. 50) or herring bone pattern (Fig. 52), with a neat border on end or edge. RED GRAVEL If red gravel is used it should be spread over a base of crushed stone at least four inches deep, and there should not be less than two inches of gravel, rolled and thoroughly compacted. STEPPING STONES The field stone or stepping stone walk (Fig. 53) is picturesque and gives an appearance of age to the garden. A single row of stones is much the best arrangement, as it leaves a greater portion of the walk in greensward. FLAGSTONES Flagstones laid with turf interstices are a change and give a satisfactory transition from the lawn to the utilitarian feature. The stones may be laid regularly or broken in irregular shapes and laid in broken range. If a mortar joint is used (Figs. 44 and 45) it should be finished flush with the stone surface. 156 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING SLATE Slate slabs, laid the same as the flagstones, are very pleasing in color and are very serviceable. Slates may be had beautifully mottled with brown and gray. TANBARK Tanbark walks have fallen into disuse, most likely on account of the care and expense of upkeep. The color is good and the tex- ture comfortable under foot. The sub-base for tanbark should be the same as for macadam, with an inch of the tanbark as a finish. A curb or border is necessary to keep the material within bounds. BORDERS When gravel, brick or tanbark is used in path construction it should be bordered with turf or Box (Fig. 129), or both. Turf borders should not be less than twelve inches wide and, where space ° permits, wider. If the turf border is too narrow the periodic edging - reduces it to irregular widths. For this reason stone or brick on end or edge is often preferable. GARDEN BEDS—WIDTH Beds which may be reached from two sides can be six feet wide; those which can be worked from one side only should not be more than three feet wide. The beds should never be placed next to a hedge, as the roots of the stronger growing hedge plants become very troublesome to the cultivated and enriched area. Under some conditions it is not possible to avoid having a bed next to the hedge; in such cases a three-inch concrete wall, two and one-half feet deep, constructed along the inside of the hedge, will help to force the hedge roots in the opposite direction. PREPARING GARDEN BEDS A successful garden will depend greatly on the preparation of the soil, care in planting and the upkeep. Garden beds should contain from eighteen inches to two feet of good friable soil. If it is not possible to supply all beds with this amount of good soil en- riched with well rotted cow manure, the available top soil on the garden area should be stripped, the manure dug into the bottom soil THE FLOWER GARDEN 157 ag taosatisbia iain oie wail Bien Se Vie Pe, fs g a ey 7 SSI a AL tt IL eh. Fig. 129.—Brick garden walk, laid diagonally on edge and bordered with Box.—See pages 155, 156 158 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Figs. 130 and 131.—“‘The construction and setting of the garden are second in importance to the floral ensemble.” Contrast these two scenes !—See page 159 THE FLOWER GARDEN 159 and the top soil replaced. If the bottom soil is heavy and does not afford good drainage, sufficient sand or coal ashes should be added in addition to the manure. A free circulation of air and abundant moisture are requisites of root growth; and soil preparation should be such that will make these readily available. Coal ashes worked into bottom soil will afford good drainage and, at the same time, supply moisture from the lower strata by capillary attraction. HUMUS Humus in the form of decayed vegetable matter from bogs or lakes should be used generously in preparing garden beds. This material is rich in plant foods and, worked well into the surface soil, lessens the tendency to puddle or bake. FLORAL TREATMENT The construction and setting of the garden, essential as these are to its success, are second in importance to the floral ensemble (Figs. 130 and 131). In the selection and arrangement of the flowers (Fig. 132) a great deal of liberty may be exercised and personal tastes indulged. The best planned and most enjoyable gardens are those which provide a sequence of bloom, starting with the Snow- drops and Crocuses in early Spring and continuing on through the Spring, Summer and Fall until the waning season is brightened by such old favorites as the Japanese Anemones and ushered out by the hardy Chrysanthemums. An important subject to be considered in the arrangement of the flowers is that of balance. The height of the foliage and bloom on one side of the garden should have a corresponding unit on the other, not necessarily the same plant, but there should be some degree of similarity in outline and color. Much has been written of color in the garden. I would lay stress on these few points. It is well to keep the purples and blues at some distance from the principal point of view; the lighter colors should be in the foreground. This will Pahenee the distance and give a pleasing graduation of color. The question of mass should be given consideration. Most of the perennials have but a short season of bloom after which they are of little use. In selecting varieties for large clumps, those with a long blooming season should be chosen. Exceptions to this rule saBed sa¢—uapse3 ay} jo wueyd jatys ay} aq prnoys siamoy are pee cee pue uolqoaJas ay «= “Uapsed ayq Ul sindsyse]—'7¢| “B14 oO a Zi w a a4 =< Oo Q a xq oO Dn QA Za < 4 ra] =< v fH = es 161 THE FLOWER GARDEN 79| aed aag—,,spaq a4} Jo sa8pa ayy Bugle sduinjo ul paqueyd yng smos qYstesjs Ul JON] “AJeUWIOJSNd sI UY Uspses oy] UT aoeid a7eWIVUI slo B aAeY p[hoys sqing »€€L “Bly 162 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING are such plants as German and Japanese Irises. These plants have foliage of artistic excellence contrasting well with other features in the garden. Very often large spaces occupied by plants of short blooming season may be brightened by the use of some Summer flowering bulbs, such as the Gladioli. Larkspurs (Fig. 132), Phlox, some of the Bellflowers, Chrysanthemums, and Japanese Anemones are good in masses. BULBS Bulbs should have a more intimate place in the garden than is customary (Fig. 133). Not in straight rows, but planted in clumps along the edges of the beds. ANNUALS Regardless of the care exercised in the selection and placing of the plants, the garden will not be altogether a success without the introduction of annuals (Fig. 134). Among the annuals are some of the most showy and useful plants that we have and they can be raised at a very small cost. Annuals are familiar to all and it is only necessary to say that the dull spots and bare spaces in the garden may be brightened if a little forethought is given each Spring to the raising of some Pansies, Snapdragons, Asters, Larkspurs, Zinnias, and other easily trans- planted kinds. The time to sow annuals is in the months of April and May. The directions printed on the package as to the seeding, soil, watering and care should be followed closely. For the time and expense required nothing will return so large a dividend in wealth of color and general satisfaction as the use of annuals. 9 HARDY SHRUBS Hardy shrubs, too, have a place in the flower garden. Where the breadth is sufficient to allow unhampered development, these plants will give more character to the garden and afford a back- ground for the flowers. Their use is appreciated in breaking up broad views and establishing vistas to distant and interesting points. The Deutzias, Philadelphus coronarius, Kerria japonica, Viburnums, Syringas, Spireas and Buddleias are all good shrubs for garden THE FLOWER GARDEN 163 use. Planted as specimens they should be well separated, always leaving ample space for the herbaceous plants between the individual shrubs. Oftentimes shrubs in the garden may be utilized to shade and protect some rather tender perennials or hardy bulbs. EVERGREENS Unless we would have the garden almost devoid of interest during the Winter months it is well to introduce some evergreens. These should be placed at regular intervals and always at the corners and ends of the beds, where they are bisected by walks (Fig. 135). If a large area is provided in the center of the garden for some such ornament as a sundial or bird bath, evergreens may be used here to good effect. The pyramidal conifers are the best suited for garden planting, and such varieties as pyramidal Box, Biotas, Arborvites and tall Junipers are recommended. For general garden planting varieties having dark green foliage are most desitable. Junipers with light colored foliage, such as chinense and virginiana glauca, contrast poorly with the foliage of the flowers and against the gray stone of garden enclosures, when stone is used. The golden tipped kinds, too, should be omitted from the garden. TREATMENT OF GARDENS CONSTRUCTED ON MORE THAN ONE LEVEL When the garden is situated on two or three levels it is often very practicable to devote the first level to the Winter garden planted to evergreens with areas of turf; the second plateau to perennials; the third to Roses (Fig. 136). Where only two levels exist, combine the perennials and the Roses by placing the Roses around the outer edge and the herbaceous plants and annuals in the inner beds. PLANTING AROUND GARDEN ENCLOSURES The outside line of the garden enclosure on the lawn side should always be hidden with foliage. A mixed plantation of flowering shrubs, with a few pyramidal evergreens at the corners, is very ef- fective. In the Southern States, where many of the broad-leaved evergreens are hardy, the English Laurels, Laurestinus and Caro- lina Cherry, should be more widely used in such plantings. The flowering shrubs outside the garden, lifting their heads above the garden enclosure, add a charm to the scene quite in tune with the 79| a8ed aag—‘ainjoid Bulseajd e suryeu 9[OYM 94] ‘Uads [e19Uad 9y] UT 380] 842 spaq a4} jo saut;jno ay} ey} Yons aie YyyMoIs pue quowesurie ay] ‘squejd pue spaq ‘syyem JO Juaw}e213 poos e BuIMoYs ‘sypem Jang YIM uapies & ut Japiog & sv pasn sjenuuy—‘pe| “8Ly oO 4 Zz a] Q ~% < 0 ea} a =< oO nA QA Zi, x = 4 < S & & ed a, €9] ased aag—'syeM ay} Aq payoasiq are Aayy LN ' 2 a194M Spsq jo spua puke SIOUIOD 94} 4e pesuese [PM Ae esau “s[PAroqUl denser ye peoed aq pphoys uapies 94] ut sUuddIB19A4— CE | ‘BLY THE FLOWER GARDEN PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 166 €1Z ‘€9| seed vag—seas 94] 42 punoi8ypeq & pue apis UMR] 94} UO aUI[INO dysI]eNzeU & Yst[qeyse 07 se paced os are suonjequejd Alaq -qniys ay] “Sas0yY 0} [2A2] JOM] a4} ‘s[etuUatad 0} UAIZ sI UapIes [Ppl 9yz ‘suaeiz10A9 Ul paquejd uapies saquIA\ & se pazead] st 4c 2IeLIT ,, payeuBisep ‘aaa] yaddn ayy, ‘sojred uns pasopoua ue jo SIxe 94} UO pazeI0] S[9A9] Va14] UO Uapses eB JOY aWEYIs W—"g¢| “BLY Li) pS OA eee y : Bis were ve! as iM | Bee WIGS = Et poe a8! ee SI 00/|]oodc0 oe ae oO ov np XX Ss so Zo Ss SS 168 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.—Fig. 137—See page 167 Fig. 137.—An interesting garden plan. A circular fountain and pool in the center of the elliptical garden on the lower level is the dominant feature.—See page 170 Key No. Quan. I 9 ze 12 3 & 4 12 43 5 5 10 6 10 7 7 8 10 9 15 10 7, 103 5 II 7 113 5 12 15 13 7 14 I2 I5 10 16 Io 17 ffi 18 10 19 1S 193 5 20 9 21 4 22 8 23 2 24 8 25 9 26 8 27 10 28 14 29 I5 30 12 31 10 32 II 33 5 34 7 35 5 36 7 37 a 38 9 39 5 40 7 41 5 42 5 43 7 44 7 45 7 46 8 47 5 48 9 Variely Iris Kempferi, blue Phlox divaricata Delphinium hybridum Stokesia cyanea Funkia lancifolia Iris pallida dalmatica Iris candida Anchusa, Dropmore var. Veronica spicata Platycodon Mariesi Baptisia australis Funkia cerulea Baptisia australis Funkia lancifolia Stokesia cyanea Delphinium hybridum Phlox divaricata Tris Yolande Iris Thavista Aconitum Napellus Veronica spicata Platycodon Mariesii Funkia cerulea Iris Kempferi Taxus baccata fastigiata Taxus baccata fastigiata Cotoneaster Simonsii Ilex aquifolium Iris Canary. Bird Hemerocallis flava Pentstemon barbatus Arabis albida Phlox R. P. Struthers Aquilegia cerulea Peonia grandiflora rubra Iberis sempervirens Gypsophila paniculata Peonia festiva maxima Digitalis purpurea Funkia lancifolia Chrysanthemum Sunshine Heuchera sanguinea Delphinium chinense Valeriana officinalis Sedum spectabile Iris Kempferi Iris pallida dalmatica Funkia japonica Tris aurea Iris Kempferi Aquilegia cerulea Phlox l’Evenement Common Name Blue Japanese Flag Early Blue Phlox Tall Larkspur Stoke’s Aster Plantain Lily Lavender Flag Flag Alkanet Speedwell Chinese Bellflower False Indigo Plantain Lily False Indigo Plantain Lily Stoke’s Aster Tall Larkspur Early Blue Phlox Flag Flag Monkshood Speedwell Chinese Bellflower Plantain Lily Blue Japanese Flag Irish Yew Irish Yew Shining Rose Box English Holly Yellow Flag Day Lily Beard's Tongue Rock Cress Phlox Columbine Red Peony Candytuft Baby’s Breath White Peony Foxglove Plantain Lily Chrysanthemum Alum Root Chinese Larkspur Garden Heliotrope Showy Sedum Japanese Flag Lavender Flag Plantain Lily Yellow Flag Japanese Flag Columbine Pink Phlox No. 105 Quan. H MCONIVWOIYNOIYIAINUNONYD WAN 4 HW ono Hw on H wv Hw an 2° NOWDONAKNNIATDOWONUNONOI MIO THE FLOWER GARDEN 169 KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.—Fig. 137—Continued Variety Rudbeckia Newmanni Campanula persicifolia Chrysanthemum Fairy Queen Gaillardia compacta Iris Kempferi Aquilegia chrysantha Phlox Queen Lupinus polyphyllus albus Lilium candidum Phlox Slocum Iris Yolande Iris Keempferi Valeriana coccinea Funkia japonica Statice Gmelini Chrysanthemum Boston Funkia lancifolia Tritoma Pfitzeriana Stokesia cyanea Peonia Prince of Wales Iris aurea Coreopsis grandiflora Scabiosa caucasica Gypsophila paniculata Dianthus plumarius Phlox Pantheon Campanula rotundifolia Delphinium chinense Rudbeckia purpurea Peonia Duke of Wellington Iris Kempferi Platycodon Mariesii Chrysanthemum Klondike Geum coccineum Artemisia lactiflora Phlox Van Hochberg Iris Mme. Chereau Iris Kempferi Aquilegia cerulea Lupinus Moerheimi Phlox Ingeberg Aquilegia Skinneri Lilium candidum Phlox Thor Rhododendron roseum elegans Rhododendron Wilsoni Rhododendron punctatum Rhododendron caractacus Rhododendron purpurea elegans Rhododendron Boule de Neige Rhododendron Boule de Neige Rhododendron purpurea elegans Rhododendron caractacus Rhododendron punctatum Rhododendron roseum elegans Rhododendron Wilsoni Ligustrum ovalifolium Buxus sempervirens Common Name Black-eyed Susan Bellflower, Peach-leaved Pink Chrysanthemum Blanket Flower Japanese Flag Yellow Columbine White Phlox Lupine Madonna Lily Phlox Purple Flag Japanese Flag Scarlet Valerian Plantain Lily Sea Lavender Chrysanthemum Plantain Lily Red Hot Poker Plant Stoke's Aster Peony Yellow Flag Tickseed Blue Bonnet Baby’s Breath Scotch Pink Phlox Harebell Chinese Larkspur Cone Flower Peony Japanese Flag Chinese Bellflower Chrysanthemum Avens Phlox Flag Japanese Flag Rocky Mountain Columbine Lupine Hardy Phlox Columbine Madonna Lily Hardy Phlox Pink Hybrid Rhododendron Dwarf Rhododendron Dwarf Rhododendron Red Rhododendron Purple Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Purple Rhododendron Red Rhododendron Dwarf Rhododendron Pink Rhododendron Dwarf Rhododendron California Privet Box Bush 170 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING floral effects within, and the sinuous outline of the border plantation is in perfect harmony with the naturalistic aspect of the garden from without. At desirable viewpoints the planting should be low so that a glimpse may be had of the lawn, plantations or distant scenes. Lilacs are particularly good for planting immediately outside the garden enclosure; also the Japanese Snowballs, the Rose of Sharon, and Deutzias. It is here that we may use the shrubs of upright character that produce their greatest wealth of bloom toward the top. Berried plants should also be considered in these plan- tations. The Wayfaring Tree (Viburnum lantana), Hercules’ Club (Aralia spinosa), Photinia villosa, the Hawthorns, Burning Bush (Euonymus), Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida), Bush Honey- suckle (Lonicera), and the deciduous Holly (Ilex verticillata), are all adaptable to such a purpose. Additional Winter color may be secured by planting the red and yellow twigged Dogwoods and, if the scope of the plantation admits, a few Red Birch. The keynote of a successful garden setting is to so plant and arrange it that it will have the appearance of having existed before the garden was formed. WATER IN THE GARDEN A water feature (Fig. 137) is by far the most delightful note in the garden and gives added interest by reflecting the color of the flowers on its surface. It has the additional attribute of attracting the birds who come for their morning bath, thus adding a pleasing touch of life to the scene, usually augmented by a grateful carol of appreciation. More detailed notes on this subject will be found in the chapter on architectural features of the garden. ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 171 CHAPTER VIII ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN The flower garden, even that of the tiniest dimensions, does not seem complete without some garden ornament, and in this day of great possibilities in this line, with the material procurable at but little expense, the desire is easy of fulfilment. The architectural adornments of the garden cover many features: from the humble seat to the magnificent garden house. The use of garden ornaments will depend greatly on their proper placing. The bird bath or fountain, placed in the center of a gar- den, on the axis of the paths, is appropriate and satisfying, even though it may be one of very simple design. SUNDIALS The sundial, upon which so many lines have been inscribed, both pleasant and harsh, is a garden ornament of many years’ standing. The designs range from the most simple and severe to the most elaborately ornate. The sundial is usually treated as a central feature, or placed at the terminus of a walk, and is generally quite conspicuous as one enters the garden. It is, therefore, a pleasant relief at times to find it treated as an isolated feature and placed in some secluded nook where it conveys much more charm by coming upon it unex- pectedly. If such a position is chosen care must be exercised in the plantings to avoid high growing plants which would interfere with the sun’s rays on the dial. The expertness with which cement is manipulated today has made it possible to produce substantial sundials at a moderate cost, and they may be had in many unique and diversified designs. When setting the pedestal care should be taken to see that a substantial foundation is provided; this foundation may be con- structed of brick, stone or concrete; if of brick or stone it should be laid in cement mortar. If the sundial is placed where the turf will run up to the base 172 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING the foundation should be built the neat width or diameter, as turf burns out readily in shallow soil over stone, brick or concrete. In choosing a pedestal of artificial stone it is advisable to select one of simple outline and free from ornamentation, as the elements soon work havoc with the cement ornaments. The sundial should always be elevated at least one foot above the surrounding level and the paved area should be wide enough to allow one to stand comfortably upon it when reading the dial. BIRD BATHS The bird bath (Fig. 138) is an attractive feature, worthy of much wider usage. It is not alone charming as an architectural feature, but has the additional merit of attracting the birds to the confines of the garden, enlivening the scene by the touch of life, color and song. The bird font should be set in a conspicuous position where the little feathered visitors may be watched from some vantage point. It is important to provide a firm foundation for the font and to furnish water direct through a galvanized wrought iron pipe con- nected with the general water supply. A good fountain spray may be secured by using an adjustable hose nozzle, which will provide a single column of water or a fine spray, whichever is desired. The basin should always be placed on a fairly high pedestal as a protection against cats and other animals which prey upon the birds. FOUNTAINS AND POOLS The fountain (Fig. 139) is a garden feature greatly admired by all. The sound of falling water is ever a source of great delight. When the fountain has a surrounding pool the water should always be on the same level as the garden, or below that level. Instances are frequent where this rule is not observed and the water allowed to rise to a plane above the surrounding ground. The lack of re- pose in such a pool is very noticeable; such a situation is incorrect. Pools or fountains (Fig. 140) are at their best when placed in the center of the garden or at the end of a vista down a garden walk or broad turf area. DEPTH Pools should never be less than twenty-two inches deep when it is desired to grow Water Lilies. Two feet or two feet six inches are even better depths. ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 173 CONSTRUCTION Pool walls (Fig. 141) may be constructed of brick or concrete. Brick walls should be one and one-half brick thick, coated on the inside with a Portland cement mortar in which some water- proofing should be incorporated. The bricks should be laid in a waterproofed cement mortar. Concrete walls should be six inches thick, consisting of five inches of reinforced concrete and a one-inch finish coat. A waterproofing material should be incorporated both in the general mix and in the finish coat, or a damp-proofing and bonding paint applied to the rough surface before the finish coat is applied. Pool bottoms will depend on the size of the pool and the char- acter of the soil. They should have a base of cinders or crushed stone, to prevent heaving, on which should be laid a slab of five inches of waterproofed reinforced concrete with a finish coat of one inch. If concrete walls are to be built the reinforcing iron should be long enough to turn up. POOL COPING The coping may be of good hard brick laid on edge, or on what is called row-lock fashion; this is much to be preferred to the cut limestone or cement coping. The gray sandstone (Fig. 140) to be had in the vicinity of Phila- delphia is an excellent stone for this purpose, using either dressed or selected flat pieces, laid quarry face, uniform thickness, using one through cross stone alternately with two pieces showing a joint through the center. The coping or curb should never stand more than four inches above the surrounding grade; the closer the coping level is to the garden grade the more pleasing will be the appearance. A sod edge extending to the pool has a softness and a natural appearance which have much to commend it. When a sod edge is desired the side walls of the pool should be beveled back to give as much depth as possible to the soil around the edge for the proper support of the turf. Under some conditions boulders around the margin are pleasing, particularly when the position is somewhat shaded, and ferns and other shade enduring plants may be planted between the boulders. 174 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING THE BIRD BATH Fig. 138.—‘‘ The bird bath attracts the birds to the confines of the garden, enlivening the scene by the touch of life, color and song.’ —See page 172 ZL| Bed aag—zeasqa1 yaInb & 03 qusUIaIN]|® pappe ue st UTeJUNOJ UdpIes 94} Jo puNoIByDeq ay] UT Pposied d1ysn1 BY. —"6E| “3I] TOOd GNV NIV.INNOA 175 a ca) Qa me g Oo ca oc a fo o n a mm. ~ & x (ea) z ~ a O [ea] S an Oo a4 ae aso 6 Hoes ato =tbas be OMId9) sVaLO ASsalosd st a0c = att] SIN OL LIOSLSNOD J QZI ‘EL| seded aag—"surdoa auo}s Jey v pure s][eM yotq Jo UaWAD JoYjTE YIM Jood uapies B jo UoljonIysu0d 947 Surmoys ue “Wel OIA aO=o 2 178 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING WATER SUPPLY AND DRAINAGE The pool should be connected with the general water supply, if practicable, and a drain provided (Fig. 141) so that the pool may easily be emptied, cleaned and refilled. The most economical and practical method to arrange for the overflow and drainage is to have a standpipe with a ground beveled end to fit in a socket set at the low point of the pool. The size of the pipe will depend on the amount of water, but, for ordinary purposes, a one and one-half inch pipe is sufficient to carry off the overflow. To drain the pool it is only necessary to remove the standpipe. Another method of providing for the en overflow and drainage is to have a con- cealed standpipe (Fig. 142) built into puscktpy! lerrns the end wall of the pool. When the water rises to the top of the standpipe at A, it overflows. To drain, the stand- pipe is removed through a concealed opening at B. Where the drain is controlled by a valve, the valve should be set in a small box with an iron: cover set flush with the grade. From a point immediately outside the walls of the pool the water may be carried off by a three-inch terra cotta POPE AIAG ~—JTO-CTLON pipe. Fig. 142.—Concealed stand- The appearance of the pool will be pipe for garden ‘pool overflow greatly improved by placing an inch of and drainage. clean pebbles over the bottom. GARDEN POOLS WITH FOUNTAIN HEADS Oftentimes garden pools are placed at the ends of the gardens fed from a fountain head placed in a vertical wall. The construction of such pools should be similar to that already outlined. The vertical wall should rise above the wall enclosing the garden to emphasize the feature. Fountains and pools so located should be provided with a good background, preferably evergreens of a dark shade; the Red Cedar and similar types are admirable for the purpose. ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 179 PLANTING NEAR GARDEN POOLS The planting near garden pools should include some bright colored flowering plants in positions where they will reflect all the glory of their color on the surface of the water, for the pool is a delightful outdoor mirror, reflecting all its environment with a soft- ness that is most charming. PLANTS IN THE POOL The garden pool is not complete, nor affording one of its greatest pleasures, if it does not support some Water Lilies (Fig. 140). In tightly built pools it is: necessary to plant the Lilies in tubs. A very economical and satisfactory tub may be provided by cutting in two an old vinegar or liquor barrel. The soil for the proper support of the Lilies should consist of a good loam well enriched with decomposed cow manure, equal to one-fifth of the entire bulk. On top of this place two inches of bar sand. The tubs should be set to a depth that will allow about six inches of water over the soil. THE PLANTS For the average garden pool a selection from the many varieties obtainable of hardy and tender Nymphezas will be found most satisfactory. These may be planted just as they start into growth, usually about May 1 in the vicinity of Philadelphia; at that time all danger of frost is over and even the tender kinds may be safely set out. Only sufficient fresh water need be supplied to the pool to provide for that lost through evaporation. The Nelumbiums are very handsome, of easy culture and well suited to large pools. Other good aquatic plants are the Water Hyacinth, Water Snowflake, Papyrus or Umbrella Plant. The hardy varieties may be left in the pool all Winter; but they require a protection of leaves, with evergreen boughs or boards over them to keep the leaves in place. FISH It is well to stock garden pools with goldfish to destroy mos- quito larve, and to add the requisite touch of life and color. SWIMMING POOLS The loss of so many of the old-time swimming holes has developed a demand for the artificial swimming pool. 180 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 143.—Swimming pool within the garden area. Gray sandstone coping to match the walls and steps Such pools may often be placed within the garden area (Fig. 143). The construction should be the same as that outlined for smaller pools, care being taken to waterproof the walls, not only from the standpoint of keeping the water within the pool, but to keep the moisture from outside from seeping through and discoloring the walls. The swimming pool may be incorporated in the flower garden as a wading pool or made sufficiently deep at one end to allow of diving, running from two to three feet deep at one end to from seven to eight feet deep at the other. Swimming pools should be provided with a ladder to assist in leaving the pool at the deep end. A removable ladder is best for a combination garden and swimming pool. Rings should be supplied at intervals along the edge of the pool and a rope run through, so that bathers may grasp same for support when required. WATER SUPPLY Should the water supply come from a spring or stream on the premises it will be necessary to have a valve or plug to shut off the supply at the intake. When using water from a stream it is advis- ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 181 able to have a forebay set at one side and the pipe run from that to the pool. The forebay or well is built along the stream to prevent leaves, sand and debris from getting into the pipe. This is essential, regardlesss as to what method is adopted for conveying the water to the pool, either by gravity, ram, gas engine, electric pump or gasoline engine. As swimming pools must be emptied frequently in order to cleanse them, a small electric pump may be introduced, where the power is at hand, and the water from the pool connected to the garden pipe line and so used for watering, thus conserving the general supply. GARDEN SEATS The value of the seat as a garden feature has long been recog- nized. A seat affords a comfortable and delightful resting place to those who would walk or work within the garden. Seats should be placed on the axis of walks, in niches formed by planting, or in the enclosing garden wall (Fig. 144) or hedge, and roofed over if only in the most fragile way. Where practicable, seats should be placed where they will com- mand a good view of the garden (Fig. 145) or of some portion of the garden or its surroundings. A novel seat (Fig. 146) is sometimes built on the axis of inter- secting walks, consisting of two walls seven feet bigh, built in the shape of a cross, with the seats placed in each corner formed by the walls. With such a resting place one may always select a retreat sheltered from sun or wind, as desired, regardless of time of day or the quarter in which the wind happens to be. For greatest comfort wooden seats are best. They may be had in great variety and to suit any taste or need. Stone or artificial stone seats are more ornamental, but for real use are not as practical as those of wood. Stone seats should have a stone or concrete foundation, otherwise they will soon get out of level. When purchasing artificial stone seats it is advisable to select those of simple design rather than those overlaid with ornament. GARDEN HOUSES The location and placing of garden houses and pergolas should always be considered when planning the garden and not as an after consideration. PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 144.—WELL PLACED GARDEN SEAT WITH COVERING See page 181 183 ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 1Q| 28ed sag¢—"uapse8 ay} Jo MaIA poos e ZuIpueUIUOD yeas UapIeD—"Cp| “BLY 184 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING ETLEVATION Fig. 146.—A unique design for a sheltered garden seat to be placed on the axis of walks or in an isolated position commanding a pleasing vista. It is always possible to find a section sheltered from sun or wind.—See page 181 Although space is not usually available in a small garden for a garden or tea house, yet quite often a space can be found sufficient to make a little break outside the line; here it may be set in a niche, thus providing ease of access and possibly greater seclusion. It is essential that such features be placed on the most dominant axis of the garden, as a terminal feature, or at one corner with a balancing feature in the opposite corner. In this location a covered house is more desirable and affords more protection. In open topped houses of pergola construction twigs and leaves are constantly falling from the overhanging vines so that, where it is desired to serve tea occasionally in the garden house, the closed top construc- tion is preferable. If the garden adjoins the residence the garden house should be built to conform with the architecture of the house; if isolated from the house the design may be one that will suit the individual taste and requirement (Figs. 147 and 147A). The rustic house, built of Red Cedar, lends itself to the greatest diversity. Garden houses with but one open side should have a southern exposure, pre-eminently when there is a pretty outlook in that direc- tion. Such a house will be found a delightful retreat in Autumn, where one may be sheltered from the cold winds and enjoy the view under most delightful conditions. The floor of the garden house should be of enduring material, 185 ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN $Q| aded aag—“BULIOOY 317 yPind pue joos a3e/s ‘ystuy jt * iho sos Ftd | YO pase jo YIOMPOOM YIM asnoy UapIeZ & OJ Ue[Y—"/p] “SL VO (Lradvnd Ee pS ORR ef Ste lige) 1 J | ‘ 186 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING V4 [4 = S Be ass VAST NO G-G-—— Vy 7ren=y (SS ron wa ON eS go eS Serine BE == FLAN Plan and elevation for Fig. 147.—See pages 184, 185 such as flagstone, slate, brick, or tile; and, for permanency of con- struction, should be set on a concrete base four inches deep with a sub-base of stone or cinders. An inch of bar sand should be placed over the concrete as a cushion. The old Dutch tile size, eight inches by eight inches by two inches, with a brick texture, makes a very satisfactory floor with a border of brick on the outside. Garden houses should be set close to the ground and should not be more than twelve inches above the garden grade. A six-inch elevation, requiring a single step, is most hospitable in appearance. Woy ace PATH TOD Li Uy ¢ ZA Inca perey, : 9 AEE 2, oO i Or7TA Z — = oe = SoA Vie oR SICH Sx &" PLAT acne a s ee aT, Fig. 148.—Plan for a pergola as a terminal feature, situated at the corner of the garden outside of the enclosing hedge, the two end sections being on the axis of the boundary walk.—See page 188 K HrooGE- j oO is PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 149.—The lights and shadows from the overhead construction of the pergola, with its covering of Roses and vines, is delightful——See page 188 ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 191 If turned columns are used their height should be eight or nine times the diameter and the lintels should be of two three-inch by ten-inch pieces, notched over the cap. The rafters (Fig. 151) should be three inches by eight inches, notched over the lintels. For the better support of vines, additional pieces should be placed on top of the rafters, running at right angles to the same. These pieces may be one and one-eighth inches by two and three-quarter inches; or of shingling lath, planed down, which reduces them to about three-quarters of an inch by two and three-eighths inches. The rafters (Figs. 151-153) should have a projection of from eighteen inches to thirty inches and should be cut to a good bold outline. The caps should always be covered with light sheet lead (Fig. 151) neatly tacked around the edge. When stone is used for the support of the superstructure the columns or piers should not be less than twenty-two inches, and these should stand on a foundation twenty-eight inches square, which will allow of a three-inch projection all the way around. The stones should be laid up in cement mortar and, where pointed, the pointing should conform to the pointing of the house, if the pergola is adjacent thereto. An effective method of laying up the stone work is to rake out the mortar joints to a depth of two to three inches; this will give a deep shadow and form a friendly sup- porting ledge for the vines. Cap stones should be of the olurmn same stone as that used in the piers, flat and hammer dressed, without projection, and set flush with the stone work below. It ais fees or bolt = efter lo f ia \ Libe , Goalerele A e~ Sheet i ay, bead Fig. 150.—Detail for construction of Fig. 151.—Detail for construction of wooden columns on cement base. rafters on wooden columns. See page 188 See note above Say eM cama ed aA at . 7 NE er Oe A ee 3 y y * ’ $ ay E £ ,eaet EO Sr aie ee ae re ee { eS geen | Lee ee ee eel tad ery LW ies oe SS a pope : Ae Miss ay S| Re ree pas a fae ey eres 1 | ty ey yo liam: | r bit b- -a—! (Se — ere Sere! bese = Eee ed Sees leer ie eed SSS Se ait a! I ( \ fee Laie i I 1 Soe oo ee ee A aS = a LS eae at armen Tart a aT ame] a? Beate ae a a? ad MEA LiVO A= ig t (| €6| eed sa¢—saId s = Joyoue pue 30g Joyoue ee CR ay} 230N| ‘doy uado ee Tr Yim aoursqua uapies be = : Joy uBIseq@—"7G| “BLY PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING X 192 ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 193 is not necessary that the cap be all one piece; when con- hor belts structed of two or more pieces Shona Cp the joints should be pointed. It is essential to build an- Brick chor bolts in the top of the columns (Fig. 152) to secure Fig. 153.—Detail for construction of raf- the lintels. These bolts should ters on brick piers. Note the stone cap. have a four-inch flat iron plate ae on the bottom to prevent the bolt from being pulled out of place when tightening the nut at the top. Piers or columns constructed of brick should be of the dark shades; Harvard, Sayre and Fisher, or tapestry brick, are all suit- able kinds. They may be laid up with either a broad mortar joint or reveal joints, raking out the mortar for a depth of two to three inches. Brick piers are improved by having a base and cap (Fig. 153) either of cut stone or of brick laid on end with a quarter- inch projection at the bottom and edgewise, set flush with the sides of the piers at the top. There are times when light brick must be used to conform with the house; but light bricks are anemic looking for ea and should be used only when unavoidable. Stucco columns (Fig. 154) may be built on tile, as it is substantial and economical. Stucco piers should be built on a foundation of stone or concrete projecting beyond the line of the tile. Twelve- inch tile is about the minimum size to use, as it is difficult to hold a smaller size plumb when building. FLOORS Pergola floors should be built with a view to permanency. The foundation should consist of eight or twelve inches of clean cinders wet and thoroughly compacted, or of equal depth of crushed stone on which should be laid a concrete slab four inches thick, composed of one part Portland cement to two of sharp sand and five of crushed one and one-half inch stone, thoroughly tamped. On this place a cushion of one-inch bar sand. Such a foundation should be provided for brick, slate, cement or stone paving. If concrete is not used in the foundations the cinders are best with the sand cushion placed 194 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING directly on top of them. All paving should have a slight fall; an eighth or a quarter of an inch to the foot is sufficient. This will prevent surface water from collecting. If brick, stone or slate is used for paving the joints should be pointed with a cement mortar to prevent grass and weeds growing in the interstices. It is seldom practical to successfully grow turf under pergolas, as the shade from the overhanging vines becomes too dense. On open terraces such a treatment is satisfactory and picturesque. The cement finished floor is the least desirable of all. It has a harsh, mechanical finish which does not fit in with soft, responsive sur- roundings of the garden. If cement is used much of the glare may be reduced and the texture improved by tinting it. Lamp black and the red mortar stains are used for the purpose. They should be applied in the finish coat, and that rather sparingly, or the efficiency of the cement will be much impaired. Cement paving should have expansion joints cut at intervals to prevent cracking. A cement surface will have a better appearance if it is cut up into small rectangular blocks, either square or oblong in form. The color of the timber superstructure will be largely influenced by that of the house; when adjacent to the house the color adopted should conform to the residence. White may always be used with safety and will intensify the shades of green leafage by contrast. There are various shades of brown obtainable, from the tint resulting from the use of creosote “oil grade one” to the almost black shade of Van Dyke brown. These latter colors are especially attractve in combination with the brick or stone substructure. COLOR OF WOODEN GARDEN FEATURES The color of wooden garden features is a subject well worth considerable thought. White paint is used more frequently than any other and; although pleasing to the eye when the foliage is on the plants, it is most glaring and cold locking in the Winter season. Shades of green are good but do not afford sufficient contrast. On the whole, shades of brown and weathered oak tints will give the greatest satisfaction. ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 195 See page 193 Fig. 154.—Stucco columns with rustic superstructure. PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING See page 197 Fig. 155.—An attractive hardy border. HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 197 CHAPTER IX HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS PERENNIAL BORDERS Of the many ways in which the cultivation of flowers is under- taken none is so popular as the ‘“‘ mixed ” or “ hardy ” border (Fig. 155). Such borders are seen on nearly every property and occupy different and varied positions. They may be planted in front of shrubbery belts (Fig. 156), in the kitchen garden (Fig. 159), along sides of walks (Fig. 165), and against walls and buildings (Fig. 157). LOCATION OF HARDY BORDERS It is to be regretted that hardy borders are usually placed to the rear of the house. Although some perennials do have a short season of bloom, and others are not provided with pleasing foliage, even with these deficiencies, if the selection of plants be carefully made, borders may be so planted that they will be attractive all through the season. On small places particularly, the flowers should be in the front, much as they are in the cottage gardens of England, where borders along walks and fences are so attractively treated. In these plantings it is obvious that the floral arrangement is given preference to the outline of the beds and this is as it should be. Irregular beds of meaningless outline should be avoided and the simplest forms adopted. AVOID BORDERS NEXT TO A HEDGE Perennial borders should never be planted against a hedge; it is preferable to leave about two or three feet between the hedge and the bed. Many plantings are ruined after the first year or two by the roots of hedge plants which grow apace in the enriched soil of the flower borders. TURF EDGE FOR BEDS When borders are placed along walks it is advisable to leave at least eighteen inches of turf (Fig. 166) between the bed and the walk. It is difficult to mow and trim a narrower strip. 198 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING BORDERS ALONG A FENCE A very satisfactory arrangement of beds along a fence (Fig. 158) is to have a narrow bed, say two feet wide, for the taller growing varieties right against the fence, then a turf strip, two and one-half or three feet between this and a larger bed on the lawn side. This will afford a charming vista and give more variety to the scene. BORDERS IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN The vegetable garden (Fig. 159) may be much improved by the introduction of perennial borders along the walks which bisect it and also along the outer walks. It is not necessary to sacrifice, to any great extent, the utilitarian side of the garden for this esthetic feature, as the beds may be made quite narrow (Fig. 160). From four to five feet is a desirable width and will afford an area suscepti- ble of very pleasing treatment. It is well to give character to bor- ders of this kind by planting tall flowering shrubs at the corners formed by the intersection of the walks and at the outside corners. WIDTH OF BORDERS The width of the borders will vary somewhat according to location. In the open, where it is practical to reach beds from both sides, they may be made six feet wide. In positions where they can only be reached from one side the width should not exceed four feet; three feet is preferable. PREPARATION OF BEDS In itself the word “‘ hardy ” is suggestive that permanency should be the first consideration in the planting of such a border, so that with but simple care the plants will continue for years. It is essen- tial, therefore, that thorough preparation of the soil be made before planting. Two feet of good soil, well enriched with plant food, should be provided for borders. Well rotted manure, finely ground bone and well pulverized sheep manure, in equal parts by weight, are good fertilizers for perennials. TIME TO PLANT Very early Spring, just as the plants are starting into growth, is the most favorable season for planting the majority of perennials. Do not plant in wet soil; it is better to wait until the ground is fairly dry. In some localities the Spring season is very short and uncertain; this may call for planting to be done in the Fall. Plants HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS Fig. 157.—Hardy Chrysanthemums in a border along a wall.—See page 197 200 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 158.—Plan for perennial borders along a fence and at the corner of alawn. In the bed along the fence plant high | a Fee ennizAL soreorke growing perennials and the lower growing kinds in the outer bed. —See page 198 moved in the Fall should be well protected by a mulch so that the frost will not lift them out. SUMMER CARE Summer care of perennials will consist principally of frequent cultivation so as to allow a full circulation of air and to keep down the weeds. Tall growing plants should be staked so that the borders will present a neat appearance. Staking should be done as the plants grow, and not at the last moment when the weight of foliage and flowers has made it impossible to give proper support. To get the best result with hardy borders they should be gone _ over every year so that some of the very rampant plants, such as Coreopsis, can be kept in check. It is usually the late blooming varieties which need more frequent division and transplanting. Spring blooming plants flower mostly from root crowns or buds perfected the preceding year; the Fall blooming plants from the numerous new stems produced during the growing season. Some of the strong growing Fall bloomers lose the original crown every year, leaving many side shoots which spread rapidly through the borders. Plants of this type should be dug up and replanted, setting back just a few of the strongest roots. This will insure larger and better blossoms and more kindly consideration of neighboring plants. ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS IN HARDY BORDERS The arrangement of plants in the hardy border (Fig. 161) should be with a view to color effect and sequence of bloom. The beds should be interesting from early Spring to late Fall. The most difficult plants to handle successfully with a view to good color effect are those with magenta and mauve shades. It is safe to separate these from conflicting shades with white and pale yellow. The white must be used sparingly, however, as it is the most conspicuous color in the combination. The scarlet shades are the high lights in the garden and we cannot place magentas or blues too close to the scarlets with satisfactory results. It is better to pass from orange and yellow to blue. 201 BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS HARDY 861 ‘26] SeBed xag—syem Jayno ayy Buoye ssapsoq [etuuaied jo uoryonpouI ay} Aq pedoidun aq Aew uapses a[qejzadea ay} jo aoueseadde ey] —"6¢] “34 202 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 2 ono a MN oN INT Ez od = > Ht Vi SnG saa oie = S&S =) JE = KI = ay Sara ee ene En aa a of a 2 1 et Ne ae Ge oe See) Te NTA (pT MIT MTD == “oN ms rA a aT ee AT MR CLAN a AC CR NAW oul Fig. 160.—Showing an arrangement of perennial borders surrounding a vegetable garden.—See page 198 203 HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 002 ased aag—‘aselo] Jo ysesju0s apqeecise ue seryuny pue sty ay} pue ‘aus0s ay} OF Aywusip pue 7ysIay dAl3 summtutyd]aq oul ‘squed je AyaueA [jews & YM peonpoid aq Aeuw poya Butseald eyeym sutmoys Japsoq pequeld A]PAT}OeIIIL uy—'|9] ‘SLY 204 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING To get a good color scheme and sequence of bloom it is well to make a plan of the beds first and figure out the spaces and the quantities, such as has been done on the plans illustrated. To facilitate this work a list of plants to be used, arranged according to season of bloom, height and color, will be of great help. BORDER BEDS SHOULD NOT BE GRADUATED EVENLY AS TO HEIGHT It is a mistake to plant all the rear row with tall plants, the middle rows with medium growing ones, and the border with low varieties. More consideration should be given to the profile or, as the artist would say, the “sky line.” To obtain the most pleasing effects with perennials plant so that the taller varieties (Fig. 162) will stand out boldly and not be held up on both sides by some other tall kind. Set off the Larkspurs (Fig. 162), Holly- hocks (Fig. 163), or Foxgloves by some lower growing kind next to them, and show the medium growing varieties to better advantage by introducing tall kinds for contrast. BACKGROUND FOR BORDERS Where space permits of long borders of good width the question of a suitable background (Fig. 164) should not be entirely over- looked. Good supporting growth adds greatly to the charm and attractiveness of perennial plantings. For this reason it is well to introduce shrubs or evergreens at regular intervals in borders along walks. These will strengthen the planting and add to the character. ROSE CHAINS IN PERENNIAL BORDERS Another pleasing addition to the perennial border is the introduction of cedar posts at intervals of from ten to twelve feet, through which, at a point about ten inches from the top of the post, a chain of one and one-half inch links should be run. Plant a climbing Rose at each post, to form a pillar of green, and train the leaders along the chain to form a festoon. ARCHES OVER WALKS Rose arches (Fig. 165) are pleasing to tie together border beds along walks and increase the apparent distance. These should not be planted too closely together; fifteen to twenty feet apart is the most satisfactory distance. PLANTING IN CLUMPS It is not advisable to dot single plants of favorite varieties all through the borders. Rather, have some good clumps (Fig. 166) HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 205 at one, two, or several places in the bed. Too much stress cannot be laid on this point. Keep varieties together; do not scatter them too much. The effect is better; it helps greatly in the care of the beds, and allows of keeping in much closer touch with individuals. The size of the clumps will depend greatly on the area of the borders and the location. Care should be taken not to plant large clumps of varieties which have a very limited blooming season, such as the Oriental Poppy, or kinds with poor foliage, such as Anthemis tinc- toria. Frequent small clumps of such kinds are better with Gladioli planted among them for later bloom. BULBS AND TUBERS Greater use should be made of bulbs and tubers in the hardy borders. They are inexpensive and should otherwise be considered from the standpoint of ease of culture, color, and succession of bloom. It is possible, by a careful selection, to secure a sequence of bloom lasting through the entire season. Bulbs and tubers may be generally divided into two classes; those known as hardy bulbs, such as Daffodils and Crocuses, which may be allowed to remain in the border from season to season; and tender bulbs, such as Gladioli and Dahlias, which must be lifted and wintered under cover. These classes may again be divided into Spring, Summer and Fall blooming kinds. SPRING BULBS Of the Spring kinds nearly all are suitable for garden culture. Among the first to bloom, usually as early as February, we have Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis), Snowdrops and _ Crocuses, followed by Daffodils, early and late Tulips and Hyacinths. The late blooming Tulips, such as the Darwins, Cottage and Parrot types, deserve more general recognition in our garden beds. They afford magnificent coloring and have good long stems, making them suitable for use as cut flowers. SUMMER FLOWERING BULBS Of the Summer flowering bulbs and tubers the Gladiolus and Dahlia are the best known. Gladioli may be had in very choice colors and are unexcelled for planting among Peonies and other herbaceous plants with heavy foliage and but a very short blooming season. Gladioli may be 206 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING ‘A good arrangement of plants in a border planting along a Rose trellis. —See page 204 Fig. 162.- HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 207 Fig. 163.—Hollyhocks in a border planting.—See page 204 208 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 164.—This early flowering border of Iris, Peonies, Foxgloves and English Daisies illustrates the advantages of a background. The Funkia cordifolia, as a center feature at the corner, is well placed.—See page 204 p07 ‘Z6| s2ded aag—‘aourysip ayy aseasoul Ayquaredde pure Jayje30] spaq ay} at] sayoie asoy pue Sasoy YIM poqueld st aBeses ay} 0} H[eM ay} BUOTe Jopsog [[eUIs FY] “UM] dy} UO Japiog Jase] @ WOIJ #I SAPIAIP ‘apIM jaaj OM] ‘HTRM jinq e pue spetuussed SuIMols YsIy YIM PaJapsog st aul] 2Uaj ay] «‘payued AT[eorjstqze sour st pueA Iwas anbsainyoid sty~—"¢g| “BIy 7 : , ; Ex = te n Z ea} ie 4 6 Surfacing + 59 Walks..... 2 47 Classification of Gardens. . Big SEZ Climbing Roses in the Garden. . eras 2 LO) Coping for Garden Walls. . Mie sacha LAO} BOT ROOlspeetenie dees eeeeeartieuhs<8 scko,= 173 Dimensions and Design, Garden....... 124 Drives, Walks and Entrances, Arrange- ment.Of3/-