LIBRARY OF THE NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE OF HOME ECONOMICS CORNELL UNIVERSITY ITHACA, NEW YORK GIFT OF YVONNE DE TREVILLE MISS PARLOA’S NEw Cook Book, A GUIDE TO MARKETING AND COOKING, BY MARIA PARLOA, PRINCIPAL OF THE SCHOOL OF COOKING IN BOSTON; AUTHOR OF “THE APPLEDORE COOK BOOK,” ‘‘ FIRST PRINCIPLES OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT AND COOKERY,” AND ‘‘ CAMP COOKERY.”? ILLUSTRATED. BOSTON: PUBLISHED BY ESTES AND LAURIAT, 301-305 WASHINGTON STREET. > 1886. CopyRIGHT. 1880, By EsTEs AND LAURIAT. PREFACE. When the author wrote the Appledore Cook Book, nine years ago, she had seen so many failures arfd so much consequent mortification and dissatisfaction as to determine her to give those minute directions which were so often want- ing in cook-books, and without which success in preparing dishes was for many a person unattainable. It seemed then unwise to leave much to the cook’s judgment; and expe- rience in lecturing and in teaching in her school since that time has satisfied the author that what was given in her first lit- erary work was what was needed. In this book an endeavor has been made to again supply what is desired: to have the directions and descriptions clear, complete and concise. Especially has this been the case in the chapter on Market- ing. Much more of interest might have been written, but the hope which led to brevity was that the few pages devoted to remarks on that important household duty, and which contain about all that the average cook or housekeeper cares and needs to know, will be carefully read. It is believed that there is much in them of considerable value to those whose knowledge of meats, fish and vegetables is not exten- sive ; much that would help to an intelligent selection of the best provisions. Of the hundreds of recipes in the volume only a few were not prepared especially for it, and nearly all of these were taken by the author from her other books. Many in the chapters on Preserving and Pickling were contributed by Mrs. E. C. 6 PREFACE. -~ 9° . | - Daniell of Dedham, Mass., whose understanding of the lines of cookery mentioned is thorough. | While each subject has received the attention it seemed to deserve, Soups, Salads, Entrées and Dessert have been treated at unusual length, because with a good acquaintance with the first three, one can set a table more healthfully, economically and elegantly than with meats or fish served in the common ways ; and the light desserts could well take the place of the pies and heavy puddings of which many people are so fond. Many ladies will not undertake the making of a dish that requires hours for cooking, and often for the poor reason only that they do not so read a recipe as to see that the work will not be hard. If they would but forget cake and pastry long enough to learn something of food that is more satisfying ! After much consideration it was decided to be right to call ‘particular attention in different parts of the book to certain manufactured articles. Lest her motive should be miscon- strued, or unfair criticisms be made, the author would state that there is not a word of praise which is not merited, and that every line of commendation appears utterly without the solicitation, suggestion or Anowledge of anybody likely to receive pecuniary benefit therefrom. NOTE. The following is a table of measures and weights which will be found useful in connection with the recipes: One quartof fot. sae cn ee eee Ree ee Rw + one pound, Two cupfuls of butter... 6 6 ee ee ee ee ee ee one pound. One generous pint of liquid. » . 6 - pe ew ee eee ee one pound. Two cupfuls of granulated sugar. 2... 6 ee eee ee eee one pound. Two heaping cupfuls of powdered sugar... . 2. ee ee ee one pound, One pint of finely-chopped meat, packed solidly. ....... one pound. The cup used is the common kitchen cup, holding half a pint. CONTENTS. MARKETING, . < * GROCERIES, . ‘ . CaRE oF Foop, . ® KITCHEN FURNISHING, . Soups, . 3 : ; Fisu, . x “ Meats, . ‘ ‘ 3 PouLTRY AND GAME, . ENTREES, ‘ : ‘ SaLaps, . és e . MEAT AND FIsH-SAUCES, Force-MEAT AND GARNISHES, VEGETABLES, . 6 ‘ Pizs AND PUDDINGS, . DESSERT, ‘i % ‘ CaKE, . : 3 3 PRESERVING, . 9 . PicKLES AND KETCHUP, PoTTING, i ‘ : BREAKFAST AND TEA, . Economicat DIsHEs, . BREAD, . 7 ‘ ‘ DRINKS, . a ‘ ‘ How To po Various THINGS, Bitts oF FARE, . . . PAGE, 237 255 283 316 334 342 347 351 376 380 386 392 402 THE PUBLISHERS’ COMPLIMENTS TO THE READER. Dear MaDAmMeE: In the preparation of this book the author and publishers have expended much time and money, | with the hope that it may lessen your cares, by. enabling you to provide your household with appe- . tizing and healthful food, at a reasonable outlay of expense and skill) Should they not be disappointed in this hope, and you find yourself made happier by the fond approval of those who enjoy the food which you set before them as a result of your use of this book, we trust you. will recommend its purchase by your friends, to the end that they may also be bene- fited by it, and that both author and publisher may be recompensed for its preparation. _ MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. MARKETING. Upon the amount of practical knowledge of marketing that the housekeeper has, the comfort and expense of the family are in a great measure dependent ; therefore, every head of a household should acquire as much of this knowl- -edge as is practicable, and the best way is to go into the market. Then such information as is gained by reading becomes of real value. Many think the market not a pleasant or proper place for ladies. The idea is erroneous. My experience has been that there are as many gentlemen among marketmen as are to be found engaged in any other business. One should have a regular place at which to trade, as time is saved and disappointment obviated. If not a judge of meat, it is advisable, when purchasing, to tell the dealer so, and rely upon him to do well by you. He will probably give you a nicer piece than you could have chosen. If a housekeeper makes a practice of going to the market herself, she is able to supply her table with a better variety than she is by ordering at the door or by note, for she sees many good and fresh articles that would not have been thought of at home. Ina book like this it is possible to treat at length only ot such things as meat, fish and vege- tables, which always form a large item of expense. BEEF. Beef is one of the most nutritious, and, in the end, the most economical, kinds of meat, for there is not a scrap of it which a good housekeeper will not utilize for food. 10 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. As to Choosing It. Good steer or heifer beef has a fine grain, a yellowish- white fat, and is firm. When first cut it will be of a dark red color, which changes to a bright red after a few minutes’ expo- sure to the air. It will also have a juicy appearance ; the suet will be dry, crumble easily and be nearly free from fibre. The flesh and fat of the ox and cow will be darker, and will appear dry and rather coarse. The quantity of meat should be large for the size of the bones. Quarters of beef should be kept as long as possible before cutting. The time depends upon climate and conveniences, but in the North - should be two or three weeks. A side of beef is first di- vided into two parts called the fore and hind quarters. These are then cut into variously-shaped and sized pieces. Different localities have different names for some of these cuts. The diagrams represent the pieces as they are sold in the Boston market, and the tables give the New York and Philadelphia names for the same pieces. In these latter _ two cities, when the side of beef is divided into halves, they cut farther back on the hind quarter than they do in Boston, taking in all the ribs—thirteen and sometimes fourteen. This gives one more rib roast. They do not have what in Boston is called the tip of the sirloin. The Hind Quarter. In Philadelphia they cut meat more as is done in Boston than they do in New York. The following diagram shows a hind quarter as it appears in Boston. In the other two cities the parts 1 and 13f are included in the /fove quarter. The dotted lines show wherein the New York cutting differs from the Boston : “ATad AO UILAVNO ANI °I °ON Wvaovid 18 MARKETING. ‘quel (2) J29q Jo Say (p) *UIDA Jo Jred 19100g ‘UIDA Jo JAud 4s0gq “yvajs punoy (ozi pur) *s}stor 10 yea}s duiny (gS pu gb pur) “auoquayTy *s}svol | Jo syxvo}s (v) UIO[IIS aB1v'7T (0) *JS8O1 IO YeI}8 UIO[IIs pauog-je],7 *JS¥OI ULOTIIS 10 YI}s VsnoY-19;10g "SqIt JO nd 4sa1q “quepq (2) “do, ura Jo yaed 19100g *uIaA Jo yAed ysagq *yvo}s punos 19100g *yvojs puno. jsog *duini jo pua [Ivy *duimi jo sox *duimi jo o1pprw *yvaqys duins osye {4svor dipy *YVI}S 10 JSLOI UIOPIIS *YB9}3 IO JSVOI UIO]IIS *SQId JO 4nd YsI1T “ORL *punor Jo yueyg *UIDA Jo Javed a9100g *UIaA Jo jied sag *y9}8 punod 19100g *yvajs punor ysog “sMOquTY ‘dum jo 90vy “dum jo e1ppryl ‘dum. jo yorg UIO[AIS JO JN 4sITT ‘UIO]IIS JO IND puodag *ulo[tIs Jo pus dry, “MUOA MAN “VIHA Tadv TIHd ‘NOLSOd “er ‘Ir ‘OI Oo a m+ 61 6 ON 1 “ON WVAXOVIC JO NOILVNVIdxa 14 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOR. The hind quarter consists of the loin, rump, round, tenderloin or fillet of beef, leg and flank. The loin is usually cut into roasts and steaks; the roasts are called sirloin roasts and the steaks sirloin or porter-house steaks. In the loin is found the tenderloin; and a small piece of it (about two and a half pounds in a large animal) runs back into the rump. In Boston this is often sold under the name of the short fillet, but the New York and Philadelphia marketmen do not cut it. Plate No. 2 shows the fillet. PLATE NO. 2. SHORT FILLET. Next the loin comes the rump, from which are cut steaks, roasts and pieces for stewing, braising, ala mode and soups. Next the rump comes the round, from which are cut steaks, pieces for ala mode, stewing, braising and soups. The flank is cut from the loin, and used for corning, stewing and as a roll of beef. Plate No. 4 represents a loin as cut in Boston and Philadelphia, and it and No. 3 represent one as cut in New York, if the two parts be imagined joined at the point A. No. 4 also shows the inside of the loin, where the tenderloin lies. The sirloin is cut in all sizes, from eight to twenty pounds, to suit the purchaser. The end next the ribs gives the smallest pieces, which are best for a small family. The tenderloin in this cut is not as large as im the first and second. In cutting sirloin steaks or roasts, dealers vary as to the amount of flank they leave on. There should be little, MARKETING. 15 if any, as that is not a part for roasting or broiling. When it is all cut off the price of the sirloin is of course very much PLATE NO. 4. THE LOWER END JOINS RIBS. LOIN. ROUND. PLATE NO. 3. RUMP, SHOWING END WHICH JOINS more than when a part is left on, but though the cost is increased eight or ten cents a pound, it is economy to pay this rather than take what you do not want. 16 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. Porter-House Steaks. Every part of the sirloin, and a part of the runtp, is named porter-house steak in various localities. In New York the second cut of the sirloin is considered the choice one for these steaks. The rump steak, when cut with the tenderloin in it, is also called porter-house steak. The original porter-house steaks came from the small end of the loin. Sirloin Steaks. Sirloin steaks are cut from all parts of the loin, beginning with the small end and finishing with therump. In New York the rump steaks are also known as sirloin. In some places they do not cut tenderloin with sirloin. One slice of sirloin from a good-sized animal will weigh about two and a half pounds. If the flank, bone and fat were removed, there would remain about a pound of clear, tender, juicy meat. There being, therefore, considerable waste to this steak, it PLATE NO. 5. SIRLOIN ROAST-——SECOND CUT. will always be expensive as compared with one from a rump or round. Butmany persons care only for this kind, as it has a flavor peculiar to itself; and they will buy it regard- less of economy. Plate No. 5 shows a. second cut of the sirloin, with the shape of a sirloin or small porter-house MARKETING. 17 steak. The only part that is really eatable as a steak is from the base to the point A, the remainder being flank. s 4 S a a f A < [74 Es by [a4 O° a wi . 4 6 Fh a a a B 5 2 As oO 6 el Rump Steak. What in Boston and Philadelphia is called rump steak is in New York named sirloin. There are three methods of cutting a rump steak; two of these give a very fine steak, the third almost the poorest kind. The first two are to cut across the grain of the meat, and thus obtain, when the beeve is a good one, really the best steaks in the animal. Plates Nos. 6 and 7 represent these steaks. No. 6is a long rump steak, very fine ; and No. 7 a short rump, also excellent. In both of these there is a piece of tenderloin. In 18 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. New York, No. 6 is sirloin without bone, and No. 7 sirloin. There is yet another slice of rump that is of a superior quality. It is cut from the back of the rump, and there is PLATE NO. 8. RUMP STEAK CUT WITH THE GRAIN, PLATE NO. 9. BACK OF THE RUMP. no tenderloin in it. Plate No. 8 shows a rump steak cut with the grain of the meat; that is, cut lengthwise. It comes much cheaper than the others, but is so poor that it MARKETING, 19 should never be bought. It will curl up when broiled, and will be tough and dry. Some marketmen will not cut rump steak by the first two methods, because it spoils the rump for cutting into roasts, and PLATE NO. II. ROUND OF BEEF. PLATE NO. 10. AITCHBONE, also leaves a great deal of bone and some tough meat on hand. The price per pound for a rump steak cut with the grain is ten cents less than for that cut across, and yet dealers do not 20 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. find it profitable to sell steak cut the latter way. Plate No. g shows the back of the rump, which is used for steaks and to roast. The steaks are juicy and tender, but do not contain any tenderloin. Round Steaks. Plate No. 11 shows the round of beef with the aitch bone taken off; a, a, a, a, is the top of the round, b, b, b, b, the under part, where the aitchbone has been cut off, and c, c, c, c, the vein. Plate No. 1o is this aitchbone, which is first cut from the round, and then the steaks are taken off. The best steak begins with the third slice. The top and under part of the round are often cut in one slice. The top is tender and the under part tough. When both are together the steak sells for fifteen or sixteen cents per pound ; when separate, the top is twenty or more and the under part from ten to twelve. If it is all to be used as a steak, the better way is to buy the top alone; but if you wish to make a stew one day and have a steak another, it is cheaper to buy both parts together. Round steak is not, of course, as tender as tenderloin, sirloin or rump, but it has a far richer and higher flavor than any of the others. It should be cut thick, and be cooked rare over a quick fire. Steaks are cut from the vein in the round and from the shoulder in the fore quarter. They are of about the same quality as those fromthe round. Tenderloin Steak. This is cut from the tenderloin, and costs from twenty-five cents to a dollar per pound. It is very soft and tender, but has hardly any flavor, and is not half as nutritious as one from a round or rump. Quality and Cost. We will now consider the various kinds of steak, as to their cost and nutritive qualities. The prices given are not MARKETING. 21 thos2 of all sections of the country, but they will be helpful to the purchaser, as showing the ratio which each bears to the other. Top of the round, the most nutritious, . : 18 to 25 cents. Rump cut across the grain, next in nutritive quali- ties. : 3 : . . . - 28 to3z0 Rump cut with the grain, . F : ® 22to25 ‘* Sirloin, . . 3 5 . 3 . ‘. 25to30 ‘ Porter-house, . . . . . : - 30. * Tenderloin, 2 ah. af ‘ 3 ‘ 25 cts. to $1.00 The tenderloin, rump and round steaks are all clear meat ; therefore, there is no waste, and of course one will not buy as many pounds of these pieces to provide for a given number of persons as if one were purchasing a sirloin or porter-house steak, because with the latter-named the weight of bone and of the flank, if this be left on, must always be taken into consideration. After the aitchbone and steaks have been taken from the round there remain nice pieces for stewing and braising ; and still lower the meat and bones are good for soups and jellies. The price decreases as you go down to the shank, until for the shank itself you pay only from three to four cents per pound. Sirloin. It will be remembered that plate No. 4 represents a loin of beef, showing the end which joined the ribs, also the kidney suet. No. 12 represents the same loin, showing the end which joined the rump. There are about thirty pounds in a sirloin that has been cut from a large beeve. This makes about three roasting pieces for a moderately large family. The piece next the rump has the largest tenderloin and is, therefore, by many considered the choicest. Steaks cut from it are now served in the principal hotels as porter-house. 22 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. The Rump. In plate No. 3 was shown that part of the rump which PLATE NO. 13. I2. LOIN. PLATE NO. joins the round. Plate No. 13 represents the end which joins the sirloin. Ribs. Plate No. 14 represents the first five ribs cut from the MARKETING. 23 back half where it joins the tip of the sirloin, and shows the end that joined. This cut is considered the best of the rib- roasts. For family use it is generally divided into two roasts, the three ribs next the sirloin being the first cut of the ribs and the others the second cut. PLATE NO. I4. FIRST FIVE RIBS. PLATE NO. I5. CHUCK RIBS, Plate No. 15 represents the chuck ribs, the first chuck, or sixth rib, being seen at the end. There are ten ribs in the back half as cut in Boston, five prime and five chuck. We 24 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. must remember that in New York and Philadelphia there are thirteen ribs, eight of which are prime. The first twe chuck ribs make a very good roast or steak, being one of the most nutritious cuts in the animal, and the next three are good for stewing and braising. Many people roast them. The flavor is fine when they are cooked in this manner, but the meat is rather tough. A chuck rib contains part of the shoulderlade, while the prime ribs do not. In New York and Philadelphia the ribs are cut much longer than in Boston ; hence the price per pound is less there. But the cost to the purchaser is as great as in Boston, because he has to pay for a great deal of the rattle-ran or rack. It is always best to have the ribroasts cut short, and even pay a higher price for them, as there will then be no waste. Fore Quarter. The fore quarter is first cut into two parts, the back half and the rattle-ran, and these are then cut into smaller pieces for the different modes of cooking. Diagram No. 16 represents a fore quarter. The back half only is numbered, for the rattle-ran is given in diagram No 17. FACE OF THE RUMP. 26 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. DIAGRAM NO. 16, THE FORE QUARTER. 27 MARKETING. *yOnYd YOON, “sql YOnyd 10100g “sql gonyo seg “sqia Jo 4nd pay, *sqti jo ynd puosag *UIOTIIS JO dr YALA ‘SqII JO Jno 4ysIL goatd YOON *sqta yonyD 19100g *sqla Yonyd ysogr "sql Jo Nd PATYL *sqlt JO ynd puosag *UJOTATS Jo dry yyy ‘squI Joynd ys11VT ‘a001d YOON “8 *sqla yonyo Jo100g =*4 pur 9g ‘sql yonyoyseg = ‘S puv & ‘sqia joyno pay “e *sqlt Jo ynd puoseg “Zz *sqtr joyno4ysitq oT “VIHd TadvVTIHd “MUOA MAN “NOLSO@ ‘OI *ON WVeOVIC JO NOILVNV1dxa 28 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. The Rattle-Ran. The whole of lower half of the fore quarter is often called the rattle-ran. Diagram No. 17 shows this, and the table following gives the name of the separate cuts: DIAGRAM NO. 17. canny even TT TA OTTER TET THE RATTLE-RAN. 29 MARKETING. ‘Joystiq Jo pua eae) saoard yoysug ‘EAS JO pus YY} puv ulys ‘goad Suryons ‘a0a1d 1ajoq 10 U0jNW jo Japynoys saoaid ayeig qoysliq Jo pua ovr} ‘ooard yoystig ‘JOYSTAq JO pus Yory} pue urys *u0}NUI JO Japjnoys saoard aqui gq *yOYSlUq JO pus [AVN °g ‘ouyd qii to yno appryy *4 ‘soard yoystig *g puv $ ‘aoatd Suryors jo yued eysiaq Jo pus yoy ‘urs “b ssoatd Suryons °f ‘uo}NU Jo 1apjnoys = -z ‘uvleaTWeY I “VIHd TAGV TIHd “MUOA MAN "NOLSOd "ON Wvuovid JO NOILVNVIdxa 30 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. The rattle-ran or plate piece is generally corned, and is considered one of the best cuts for pressed beef. The shoulder of mutton is used for stews, beef 4 /a mode, roasts and steaks, and is also corned. The sticking piece, commonly called the back of the shoulder, but which is really the front, is used for stews, soups, pie meat and for corning. The shin is used for soups, and the brisket and ribs for corning and for stews and soups. One of the best pieces for corning is the navel end of the brisket. The middle cut of the rattle- ran is also comed. MUTTON. Mutton is very nutritious and easily digested. The best quality will have clear, hard, white fat, and a good deal of it ; the lean part will be juicy, firm and of a rather dark red color. When there is but little fat, and that is soft and yellow and the meat is coarse and stringy, you may be sure that the quality is poor. Mutton is much improved by being hung in a cool place for a week or more. At the North a leg will keep quite well for two or three weeks in winter, if hung in a cold, dry shed or cellar. Mutton, like beef, is first split through the back, and then the sides are divided, giving two fore and two hind quarters. Diagram No. 18 is of a whole carcass of mutton, and half of it is — numbered to show the pieces into which the animal is cut for use. DIAGRAM NO. 18. 31 any seaseennneeed ee Cer IHREN EON MARKETING. EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM NO, 18, r 1. Leg. 2} Hind quarter. 2, Loin. . - 3. Shoulder. 4. Flank. Fore quarter. unw 5,5» Breast. 32 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. Hind Quarter of Mutton. This consists of the leg and loin, and is the choicest cut. It makes a fine roast for a large family, but for a moderate- sized or small one either the leg or loin alone is better. A hind quarter taken from a prime animal will weigh from twenty to thirty pounds. PLATE NO. 19. Leg of Mutton. This joint is nearly always used for roasting and boiling. It has but little bone, as compared with the other parts of the animal, and is, therefore, an economical piece to select, though the price per pound be greater than that of any other cut. It is not common to find a good leg weighing under ten or twelve pounds. A leg is shown in plate No. 19. Loin of Mutton. In a loin, as cut in Boston, there are seven ribs, which make a good roast for a small family. This cut is particu- larly nice in hot weather. Itis not as large as a leg, and the MARKETING. 33 meat is, besides, of a lighter quality and more delicate flavor. The cost when the flank is taken off will be about seven cents more a pound than if the loin be sold with it on; but, unless you wish to use the flank for a soup, stew or haricot, it is the better economy to buy a trimmed piece and pay the higher price. When the two loins are joined they are called a saddle. Plate No. 20 shows a saddle and twa French chops. PLATE NO 20, SADDLE OF MUTTON AND FRENCH CHOPS. Fore Quarter of Mutton. In this is included the shoulder and breast. When the shoulder-blade is taken out the quarter makes a good roast for a large family. The shoulder is separated from the breast by runing a sharp knife between the two, starting at the curved dotted lines near the neck (shown in diagram No. 18), and cutting round to the end of the line. The shoulder is nice 34 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. for roasting or boiling. The breast can be used for a roast, for broths, braising, stewing or cotelettes. Rib chops are also cut from the breast, which is, by the way, the cheapest part of the mutton. Chops and Cutlets. Chops are cut from the loin. They are called long when the flank is cut on them and short if without it. When part of the bone of the short chop is scraped clean it is called a French chop. ‘The rolled chops sold by provision dealers are the long chops with the bone removed. One often sees them selling at a low price. They are then the poor parts of the mutton, like the flank, and will be found very expen- sive no matter how little is asked. Prices. The price of mutton varies with the seasons, but a table giving the average price may help the purchaser to an esti- mate of the comparative cost of each cut: Hind Quarter, ri 3 “ : e r . + 15 cents. Leg, . : : : ‘i : 6 Fae 7 ape Loin, with flank, . p : : ‘ - ‘ a age £6 Loin, without flank, . ‘ 4 ‘ ‘ ‘ . zo. *f Fore Quarter, . ‘ a ‘ P " ‘ ‘ « 3 $8 Trimmed Chops, : ‘ : . $ ‘ : 20. *¢ Untrimmed Chops, ‘ 7 5 : : . «) TS HE When one has a large family it brings all kinds of meat considerably cheaper to buy large pieces untrimmed, as the trimmings can be used for soups, stews, etc. ; but for a small family it is much better to purchase only the part you want for immediate use. Although mutton costs less per pound than beef, it is no cheaper in the end, because to be good it must be fat, and mutton fat, unlike beef fat, cannot be employed for cooking purposes, as it gives a strong flavor to any article with which it is used. MARKETING. 35 LAMB. Lamb is cut and sold like mutton. Being much smaller, however, a hind or fore quarter is not too large for a good- sized family. Lamb will not keep as long as mutton, for, being juicy, it taints more readily. It is of a delicate flavor until nearly a year old, when it begins to taste like mutton and is not so tender. The bones of a young lamb will be red, and the fat hard and white. This meat is in season from May to September. VE: The calf being so much larger than the sheep, the fore and hind quarters are not cooked together, and for an ordi- nary family both are not purchased. The animal is, however, cut into the same parts as mutton. The loin, breast and shoulder are used for roasting. Chops are cut from the loin and neck, those from the neck being called rib chops or cotelettes. The neck itself is used for stews, pies, fricassees, etc. The leg is used for cutlets, fricandeaux, stews and roasts, and for braising. The fillet of veal is a solid piece cut from the leg—not like the tenderloin in beef, but used in much the same way. The lower part of the leg is called a knuckle, and is particularly nice for soups and sauces. Good veal will have white, firm fat, and the lean part a pinkish tinge. When extremely white it indicates that the calf has been bled before being killed, which is a great cruelty to the animal, besides greatly impoverishing tu- meat. When veal is too young it will be soft and of a bluish tinge. The calf should not be killed until at least six weeks old. Veal is in the market all the year, but the season is really from April to September, when the price is low. The leg costs more than any other joint, because it is 36 MISS PARLOA'S NEW COOK BOOK. almost wholly solid meat. The fillet costs from 20 to 25 cents; cutlets from the leg, 30 cents; chops from loin, 20 cents; loin for roast, 15 cents; breast, 10 to 12 cents. Veal is not nutritious nor easily digested. Many people connot eat it in any form, but such a number of nice dishes can be made from it, and when in season the price is so low, that it will always be used for made dishes and soups. PORK. Pork, although not so much used in the fresh state as beef, mutton, lamb, etc., is extensively employed in the prepara-~ tion of food. Itis cut somewhat like mutton, but into more parts. Fresh young pork should be firm ; the fat white, the lean a pale reddish color and the skin white and clear. When the fat is yellow and soft the pork is not of the best quality. After pork has been salted, if it is corn-fed, the fat will be of a delicate pinkish shade. When hogs weighing three and four hundred pounds are killed, the fat will not be very firm, particularly if they are not fed on corn. The amount of salt pork purchased at a time depends upon the mode of cooking in each family. If bought in small quantities it should be kept in a small jar or tub, half filled with brine, and a plate, smaller round than the tub, should be placed on top of the meat to press it under the brine. The parts into which the hog is cut are called leg, loin, rib piece, shoulder, neck, flank, brisket, head and feet. The legs and shoulders are usually salted and smoked. The loin of a large hog has about two or three inches of. the fat cut with the rind. This is used for salting, and the loin fresh for roasting. When, however, the hog is small, the loin is simply scored and roasted. The ribs are treated the same as the loin, and when the rind and fat are cut off are called spare- ribs. This piece makes a sweet roast. Having much more MARKETING. 37 bone and less meat than the loin, it is not really any cheaper, although sold for less. The loin and ribs are both used for chops and steaks. The flank and brisket are corned. The head is sold while fresh for head-cheese, or is divided into two or four parts and corned, and isa favorite dish with many people. The feet are sometimes sold while fresh, but are more frequently first pickled. The fat taken from the inside of the hog and also all the trimmings are cooked slowly until dissolved. This, when strained and cooled, is termed lard. Many housekeepers buy the leaf or clear fat and try it out themselves. This is the best way, as one is then sure of a pure article. Sausages. These should be made wholly of pork, but there is often a large portion of beef in them. ‘They should be firm, and rather dry on the outside. Liver. Calves’ liver is the best in the market, and always brings the highest price. In some markets they will not cut it. A single liver costs about fifty cents, and when properly cooked, several delicious dishes can be made from it. Beef liver is much larger and darker than the calves’, has 2. stronger flavor and is not so tender. It is sold in small or large pieces at a low price. Pigs’ liver is not nearly as good as the calves’ or beeves’, and comes very much cheaper. Hearts. Both the calves’ and beeves’ hearts are used for roast- ing and braising. The calves’ are rather small, but tenderer than the beeves’. The price of one is usually not more than fifteen cents. The heart is nutritious, but not easily digested. 38 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. Kidneys. The kidneys of beef, veal, mutton, lamb and pork are all used for stews, broils, sazéés, curries and fricassees. Veal are the best. Tongues. These are very delicate. Beef tongue is the most used. It should be thick and firm, with a good deal of fat on the . under side. When fresh, it it used for bouilli, mince pies and to serve cold or in jelly. Salted and smoked, it is boiled and served cold. Lambs’ tongues are sold both fresh and pickled. POULTRY AND GAME, Chickens. All fowl less than a year old come under this head. The lower end of the breast-bone in a chicken is soft, and can be bent easily. The breast should be full, the lean meat white, and the fat a pale straw color. Chickens are best in last of the summer and the fall and winter. The largest and juciest come from Philadelphia. Spring Chickens. These are generally used for broiling. They vary in size, weighing from half a pound to two and a half pounds. The small, plump ones, weighing about one and a half or two pounds, are the best. There is little fat on spring chickens. Fowl. These may be anywhere from one to five or six years old. When over two years the meat is apt to be tough, dry and stringy. They should be fat, and the breast full and soft. The meat of fowl is richer than that of chickens, and is, there- fore, better for boiling and to use for salads and made dishes. MARKETING. 39 The weight of bone is not much greater than in a chicken, while there is a great deal more meat. Another point to be remembered is that the price per pound is also generally a few cents less. Turkeys. The lower end of the breast-bone should be soft, and bend easily, the breast be plump and short, the meat firm and the fat white. When the bird is very large and fat the flavor is sometimes a little strong. Eight or ten pounds is a good size for a small family. Geese. It is more difficult to judge of the age and quality of a goose than of any other bird. If the wind pipe is brittle and breaks easily under pressure of the finger and thumb, the bird is young, but if it rolls the bird is old. Geese live to a great age—thirty or more years. They are not good when more than three years old. Indeed, to be perfect, they should be not more than one year old. They are in season in the fall and winter. Green Geese. The young geese are very well fed, and when from two to four months old are killed for sale. They bring a high price, and are delicious. They are sometimes in the market in winter, but the season is the summer and fall. Ducks. The same tests that are applied to chickens and geese to ascertain age and quality are made with ducks. Besides the tame bird, there are at least twenty different kinds that come under the head of game. ‘The canvas-back is the finest in the list ; the mallard and red-head come next. The domes- tic duck is in season nearly all the year, but the wild ones only through the falland winter. The price varies with the 40 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. season and supply. A pair of canvas-backs will at one time cost a dollar and a half and at another five dollars. Pigeons. There are two kinds of pigeons found in the market, the tame and the wild, which are used for potting, stewing, &c. Except when “stall-fed” they are dry and tough, and require great care in preparation. The wild birds are the cheapest. They are shipped from the West, packed in barrels, through the latter part of the winter and the early spring. Stall-fed pigeons are the tame ones cooped for a few weeks and well fed. They are then quite fat and tender, and come into mar- ket about the first of October. Squabs. These are the young of the tame pigeon. Their flesh is very delicate, and they are used for roasting and broiling. Grouse, or Prairie Chicken. These birds comes from the West, and are much like the partridge of the Eastern States and Canada. The flesh is dark, but exceedingly tender. Grouse should be plump and heavy. The breast is all that is good to serve when roasted, and being so dry, it should always be larded. The season is from September to January, but it is often continued into April. Venison. There should be a good deal of fat on this meat. The lean should be dark red and the fat white. Venison is in season all the year, but is most used in cold weather. In summer it should have been killed at least ten days before cooking ; in winter three weeks is better. The cuts are the leg, saddle, loin, fore quarter and steaks. The supply regu- lates the price. Partridge. This bird is so like the grouse that the same rules MARKETING. 4 apply to both. What is known as quail at the North is called partridge at the South. Quail. These birds are found in the market all through the fall and winter. They are quite small (about the size of a squab), are nearly always tender and juicy, and not very expensive. They come from the West. Woodcock. Woodcock is in season from July to November. It is a small bird, weighing about half a pound. It has a fine, deli- cate flavor, and is very high-priced. Other Game. There are numerous large and small birds which are used for food, but there is not space to treat of them all. In se- lecting game it must be remembered that the birds will have a gamey smell, which is wholly different from that of tainted meat. Pls, To fully describe all the kinds of fish found in our markets would require too much space and is unneccessary, but a list of those of which there is usually a supply is given, that housekeepers may know what it is best to select in a certain season and have some idea of the prices. To Select Fish. When fresh, the skin and scales will be bright, the eyes full and clear, the fins stiffand the body firm. If there is a bad odor, or, if the fish is soft and darker than is usual for that kind, and has dim, sunken eyes, it is not fit to use. Codfish. This is good all the year, but best in the fall and winter. 42 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. When cooked, it breaks into large white flakes. It is not as nutritious as the darker kinds of fish, but is more easily di- gested. The price remains about the same through all seasons. Haddock. This is a firmer and smaller-flaked fish than the cod, but varies little in flavor from it. The cod has a light stripe running down the sides ; the haddock a dark one. Cusk. This also belongs to the cod family, and is a firm, white fish. It is best in winter. Pollock. This is used mostly for salting. It is much like the cod, only firmer grained and drier. Halibut. This fine fish is always good. It variesin weight from two pounds to three hundred. The flesh is a pearly white in a perfectly fresh fish. ‘That cut from one weighing from fifty to seventy-five pounds is the best, the flesh of any larger being coarse and dry. The small fish are called chicken halibut. Flounders. These are thin, flat fish, often sold under the name of sole. Good at all times of the year. Turbot. This is a flat fish, weighing from two to twenty pounds. The flesh is soft, white and delicate. Turbot is not common in our market. Salmon. Salmon is in season from April to July, but is in its prime in June. It is often found in the market as early as January, when it brings a high price. Being very rich, a much smaller MARKETING. 43 quantity should be provided for a given number of people than of the lighter kinds of fish. Shad. This is in season in the Eastern and Middle States from March to April, and in the Southern States from November to February. The flesh is sweet, but full of small bones. Shad is much prized for the roe. Blue-fish. This is a rich, dark fish, weighing from two to eight pounds’ and in season in June, July and August. It is particularly nice broiled and baked. Black-fish, or Tautog. Good all the year, but best in the spring. It is not a large fish, weighing only from one to five pounds. White-fish, or Lake Shad. This delicious fish is found in the great lakes, and in the locality where caught it is alwaysin season. At the South and in the East the market is supplied only in winter, when the price is about eighteen cents a pound. The average weight is between two and three pounds. Sea-Bass. This fish, weighing from half a pound to six or seven pounds, is very fine, and is in season nearly all the year, It is best in March, April and May. Rock-Bass. The weight of rock-bass generally ranges from half a pound to thirty or forty pounds, but sometimes reaches eighty or a hundred. The small fish are the best. The very small ones (under one pound) are fried ; the larger broiled, baked and boiled. The bass are in season all the year, but best in the fall. 44 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. Sword Fish. This is very large, with dark, firm flesh. It is nutritious, but not as delicate as other kinds of fish. It is cut and sold like halibut, and in season in July and August. Sturgeon. This fish, like the halibut and sword fish, is large. The flesh is of a light redcolor and the fatofa pale yellow. Thereisa rather strong flavor. A fish weighing under a hundred pounds will taste better than a larger one. ‘The season is from April to September. Weak-Fish. Weak-fish is found in the New York and Philadelphia markets from May to October. In the Eastern States it is not so well known. It is a delicate fish, and grows soft very quickly. It is good boiled or fried. Small, or ‘‘ Pan”-Fish. The small fish that are usually fried, have the general name of “pan”’-fish. There is a great variety, each kind found in the market being nearly always local, as it does not pay to pack and ship them. A greater part have the heads and skin taken off before being sold. Smelits. These are good at any time, but best in the winter, when they are both plenty and cheap. Mullet. There are several varieties of this fish, which is much prized in some sections of the country. It is a small fish, weighing from a quarter of a pound to two or three pounds. It often has a slightly muddy flavor, owing to living a large part of the time in the mud of the rivers. Mackerel. This fish is nutritious and cheap. It is in the market MARKETING. 45 through the spring and summer, and averages in weight between one and two pounds. Spanish Mackerel. These are larger than the common mackerel, and have rows of yellow spots, instead of the dark lines on the sides. They are in season from June to October, and generally bring a high price. Eels. These are sold skinned; are always in season, but best from April to November. Lobsters, This shell-fish is in the market all the year, but is best in May and June. If the tail, when straightened, springs back into position, it indicates that the fish is fresh. The time of boiling live lobsters depends upon the size. If boiled too much they will be tough and dry. They are generally boiled by the fishermen. This is certainly the best plan, as these people know from practice, just how long to cook them. Besides, as the lobsters must be alive when put into the pot, they are ugly things to handle. The medium-sized are the tenderest and sweetest. A good one will be heavy for its size. In the parts of the country where fresh lobsters cannot be obtained, the canned will be found convenient for making salads, soups, stews, etc. Hard-Shell Crabs. These are in the market all the year. They are sold alive and, also, like the lobster, boiled. Near the coast of the Southern and Middle States they are plenty and cheap, but in the interior and in the Eastern States they are quite expensive. They are not used as much as the lobster, because it is a great deal of trouble to take the meat from the shell. a i % 46 MISS PARLOA’S “NEW COOK BOOR. Soft-Shell Crabs. As the crab grows, a new, soft shell forms, and the old, hard one is shed. Thus comes the soft-shelled crab. In about three days the shell begins to harden again. In Maryland there are ponds for raising these crabs, so that now the supply is surer than in former years. Crabs are a great luxury, and very expensive. In the Eastern States they are found only in warm weather. ‘They must always be cooked while alive. Frying and broiling are the modes of preparing. Shrimp. These are found on the Southern coasts; are much the shape of a lobster, but very small. They are used mostly for sauces to serve with fish. Their season is through the spring, summer and fall. There is a larger kind called big shrimp or prawns, sold boiled in the Southern markets. These are good for sauces or stews, and, in fact, can be used, in most cases, the same as lobster. But few shrimp are found in the Eastern or Western markets. The canned goods are, however, convenient and nice for sauces. Terrapin. This shell-fish comes from the South, Baltimore being the great terrapin market. It belongs to the turtle family. It is always sold alive, and is a very expensive fish, the diamond backs costing from one to two dollars apiece. Three varie- ties are found in the market, the diamond backs, little bulls and red fenders. The first named are considered marketable when they measure six inches across the back. They are then about three years old. The little bulls, or male fish, hardly ever measure more than five inches across the back. They are cheaper than diamond backs, but not so well flavored. The red fenders grow larger than the others, and are much cheaper, but their meat is coarse and of an inferior flavor. MARKETING. 47 Terrapin are in the market all the year, but the best time ‘to buy them is from November to February, Oysters. No other shell-fish is as highly prized as this. The oyster usually takes the name of the place where it is grown, because the quality and flavor depend very much upon the feeding grounds. The Blue-point, a small, round oyster from Long Island, is considered the finest in the market, and it costs about twice as much as the common oyster. Next comes the Wareham, thought by many quite equal to the Blue-point. It is a salt water oyster, and is, therefore, par- ticularly good for serving raw. The Providence River oyster is large and weil flavored, yet costs only about half as much as the Blue-point. The very large ones, however, sell at the same price. Oysters are found all along the coast from Massachusetts to the Gulf of Mexico. ‘Those taken from the cool Northern waters are the best. The sooner this shell-fish is used after being opened, the better. In the months of May, June, July and August, the oyster becomes soft and milky. It is not then very healthful or well flavored. The common-sized oysters are good for all pur- poses of cooking except broiling and frying, when the large are preferable. The very large ones are not served as frequently on the half shell as in former years, the Blue- point, or the small Wareham, having supplanted them. Clams. There are two kinds of this shell-fish, the common thin- shelled clam and the quahaug. The first is the most abundant. It is sold by the peck or bushel in the shell, or by the quart when shelled. Clams are in season all the year, but in summer a black substance is found in the body, which must be pressed from it before using. The shell of the quahaug is thick and round. 48 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. Scollops. This shell-fish is used about the same as the clam, but is not so popular, owing to a peculiarly sweet flavor. It is in season from September to March, and is sold shelled, as only the muscular part of the fish is used. VEGETABLES: Every good housekeeper will supply her table with a variety of vegetables all the year round. One can hardly think of a vegetable, either fresh or canned, that cannot be had in our markets at any season. The railroads and steamers connect the climes so closely that one hardly knows whether he is eating fruits and vegetables in or out of season. The provider, however, realizes that it takes a long purse to buy fresh produce at the North while the ground is yet frozen. Still, there are so many winter vegetables that keep well in the cellar through cold weather that if we did not have the new ones from the South, there would be, neverthe- less, a variety from which to choose. It is late in the spring, when the old vegetables begin to shrink and grow rank, that we appreciate what comes from the South. Buying Vegetables. If one has a good, dry cellar, it is economy to procure in the fall vegetables enough for all winter, but if the cellar is too warm the vegetables will sprout and decay before half the cold months have passed. Those to be bought are onions, squashes, turnips, beets, carrots, parsnips, cabbages, potatoes and Jerusalem artichokes, all of which, except the first two, should be bedded in sand and in a cool place, yet where they will not freeze. Squashes and onions should be kept in a very dry room. The price of all de- pends upon the supply. MARKETING. 49 When in Season. Bermuda sends new potatoes into Northern markets about the last of March or first of April. Florida soon follows, and one Southern State after another continues the supply until June, when the Northern and Eastern districts begin. It is only the rich, however, who can afford new potatoes before July ; but the old are good up to that time, if they have been well kept and are properly cooked. Cabbage is in season all the year. Beets, carrots, turnips and onions are received from the South in April and May, so that we have them young and fresh for at least five months. After this period they are not particularly tender, and require much cooking. Squashes come from the South until about May, and we then have the summer squash till the last of August, when the winter squash is first used. This is not as delicate as the summer squash, but is generally liked better. Green peas are found in the market in February, though they are very expensive up to the time of the home supply, which is the middle of June, in an ordinary season, in the Eastern States. They last until the latter part ot August, but begin to grow poor before that time. ‘There is a great variety, some being quite large, others very small. The smaller are the more desirable, being much like French peas. When peas are not really in season it is more satisfactory to use French canned peas, costing forty cents a can. One can is enough for six persons. When buying peas, see that the pods are green, dry and cool. If they have turned light they have been picked either a long time or when old. Spinach. Spinach is always in season, but is valued most during the winter and spring, as it is one of the few green vegetables that we get then, and is not expensive. It should be green and crisp. 50 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. Asparagus. Asparagus, from hot houses and the South, begins to come into the market in March and April. It is then costly, but in May and June is abundant and quite cheap. About the last of June it grows poor, and no matter how low the price, it will be an expensive article to buy as it has then become very “woody.” The heads should be full and green; if light and not full, the asparagus will not spend well. Dandelions. The cultivated dandelion is found in the market in March, April and a part of May. It is larger, tenderer and less bitter than the wild plant, which begins to get into the market in April. By the last of May the dandelion is too rank and tough to make a good dish. , Cauliflower. This vegetable is generally quite expensive. It is found in the market a greater part of the year, being now grown in hot houses in winter. It is in perfection from the first of May to November or December. The leaves should be green and fresh and the heads a creamy white. When the leaves are wilted, or when there are dark spots on the head, the cauliflower is not good. Tomatoes. The fresh tomato comes to the market from the South in April and sometimes in March. On account of the high price it is then used only where the canned tomato will not answer. In July, August and September it is cheap. It comes next to the potato in the variety of forms in which it may be served. By most physicians it is considered a very healthful vegetable. The time to buy ripe tomatoes for can- ning is about the last of August, when they are abundant and cheap. About the middle or last of September green ones MARKETING. 51 should be secured for pickling, etc. As the vines still bear a great many that cannot ripen before the frost comes, these are sold for this purpose. Beans. There are two kinds of green beans in the market, the string or snap bean and the shell bean. String beans come from the South about the first of April. They are picked in Northern gardens about the first of June, and they last until about the middle of July. They should be green, the beans just beginning to form, and should snap crisply. If wilted or yellow they have been picked too long. Shell Beans. Shell beans come in May, but are not picked at the North before June. They are good until the last of Septem- ber. There is a great variety of shell beans, but the Lima is considered the best. When fresh, shell beans are dry and smooth ; but if old, they look dull and sticky. Celery. Celery is found in the market from August to April, but is in its prime and is cheapest from November to the first of March. Before the frost comes it is slightly bitter, and after the first of March it grows tough and stringy. Unless one has a good cellar in which to bury celery, it is best to pur- chase as one has need from time to time. Celery is a delicious salad. It is also considered one of the best vegetables that a nervous, rheumatic or neuralgic person can take. The heads should be close and white, and the stalks should break off crisply. Save the trimmings for soups. Lettuce. Lettuce is found in the market all the year round, being now raised in hot houses in winter. It then costs two 52 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. and three times as much as in summer; still, it is not an expensive salad. There are a number of varieties having much the same general appearance. That which comes in round heads, with leaves like a shell, is the most popular in this country, because it can be served so handsome. There ig another kind, high in favor in Paris and in some locali- ties in this country for its tenderness and delicate flavor, but not liked by marketmen, because it will not bear rough handling. The time will come, however, when there will be such a demand for this species that all first-class provision dealers will keep it. The French call it Romaine, and in this country it is sometimes called Roman lettuce. It does not head. The leaves are long and not handsome whole ; but one who uses the lettuce never wishes for any other. Lettuce should be crisp and green, and be kept until used in a very cold place—in an ice chest if possible. Mushrooms. Mushrooms are in the market at all seasons. In summer, when they are found in pastures, they are comparatively cheap (fifty or seventy-fiveecents a pound), but in winter they are high priced. Being, however, very light, a pound goes a great way. The French canned mushrooms are safe, convenient and cheap. One can, costing forty cents, is enough for a sauce for at least ten people. There is noth- ing else among vegetables which gives such a peculiarly delicious flavor to meat sauces. Mushrooms are used also as a relish for breakfast and tea, or as anentrée. In gathering from the fields one should exercise great care not to collect poisonous toadstools, which are in appearance much like mushrooms, and are often mistaken for these by people whose knowledge of vegetables has been gained solely by reading. The confusion of the two things has sometimes resulted fatally. There can hardly be danger if purchases are made of reliable provision dealers. MARKETING. 53 Green Corn. Green corn is sent from the South about the last of May or the first of June, and then costs much. It comes from the Middle States about the middle of July and from the Eastern in August, and it lasts into October in the North Eastern States. It should be tender and milky, and have well-filled ears. If too old it will be hard, and the grains straw colored, and no amount of boiling will make it tender. Corn is boiled simply in clear water, is made into chowders, fritters, puddings, succotash, etc. Artichokes. There are two kinds of artichokes, the one best known in this country, the Jerusalem artichoke, being a tuber some- thing like the potato. It is used asa salad, is boiled and served as a vegetable, and is also pickled. This artichoke comes into the market about July, and can be preserved in sand for winter use. The Globe Artichoke. A thick, fleshy-petaled flower grows on a plant that strongly resembles the thistle ; this flower is the part that is eaten. It is boiled and served with a white sauce, and is also eaten as a salad. It is much used in France, but we have so many vegetables with so much more to recommend them, that this will probably never be common in this country. Cucumbers. Cucumbers are in the market all the year round. In winter they are raised in green houses and command a high price. They begin to come from the South about the first of April, and by the last of May the price is reasonable. They last through the summer, but are not very nice after August. They are mostly used as a salad and for pickles, but are often cooked. They should be perfectly green and 54 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. firm for a salad, and when to be pickled, they must be small. If for cooking, it does no harm to have them a little large and slightly turned yellow. Radishes. There are two forms of the radish commonly found in the market, the long radish and the small round one. They are in the market in all seasons, and in early spring and summer the price is low. Radishes are used mostly as a relish. Chicory or Endive. The roots and leaves of this plant are both used, but the leaves only are found in the market (the roots are used in coffee), and these come in heads like the lettuce. Chicory comes into the market later than lettuce, and is used in all respects like it. Sometimes it is cooked. Sweet Herbs. The housekeeper in large cities has no difficulty in find- ing all the herbs she may want, but this is not so in small towns and villages. The very fact, however, that one lives in a country place suggests a remedy. Why not have a little bed of herbs in your own garden, and before they go to seed, dry what you will need for the winter and spring? Thus, in summer you could always have the fresh herbs, and in winter have your supply of dried. It is essential to have green parsley throughout the winter, and this can be managed very easily by having two or three pots planted with healthy roots in the fall. Or, a still better way is to have large holes bored in the sides of a large tub or keg; then fill up to the first row of holes with rich soil ; put the roots of the plants through the holes, having the leaves on the outside ; fill up again with soil and continue this until the tub is nearly full; then plant the top with MARKETING. 55 roots. Keep in a sunny window and you will have not only a useful herb, but a thing of beauty through the winter. For soups, sauces, stews and braising, one wants sweet marjoram, summ~~ savory, thyme, parsley, sage, tarragon and bay-leaf always on hand. You can get bunches of savory, sage, marjoram and thyme for five cents each at the vegeta- ble market. Five cents’ worth of bay-leaves from the drug shop will complete the list (save tarragon, which is hard to find), and you have for a quarter of a dollar herbs enough to last a large family a year. Keep them tied together in a large paper bag or a box, where they willbe dry. Mint and parsley should be used green. There is but little difficulty in regard to mint, as it is used only in the spring and summer. 56 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. GROCERIES, The manner in which a housekeeper buys her groceries must depend upon where she lives and how large her family is. Inacountry place, where the stores are few and not well supplied, it is best to buy in large quantities all articles that will not deteriorate by keeping. If one has a large family a great saving is made by purchasing the greater portion of one’s groceries at wholesale. Flour. There is now in use flour made by two different processes, hy the old, or St. Louis, and the new, or Haxall. The Haxall flour is used mostly for bread and the old-process for pastry, cake, etc. By the new process more starch and less of the outer coats, which contain much of the pros- phates, is retained ; so.that the flour makes a whiter and moister bread. This flour packs closer than that made in the old way, so that a pound of it will not’ measure as much as a pound of the old kind. In using an old rule, one-eighth of this flour should be left out. For instance, if in a recipe for bread you have four quarts (old-process) of flour given, of the new-process you would take only three and a half quarts. This flour does not make as good cake and pastry as the old-process. It is, therefore, well, to have a barrel of each, if you have space, for the pastry flour is the cheaper, and the longer all kinds of flour are kept ina dry place, the better they are. Buying in small quantities is GROCERIES. 57 extremely extravagant. When you have become accus- tomed to one brand, and it works to your satisfaction, do not change for a new one. The Jes¢ flour is the cheapest. There are a great many brands that are equally good. Graham. The best Graham is made by grinding good wheat and not sifting it. Much that is sold is a poor quality of flour mixed with bran. This will not, of course, make good, sweet bread. The “ Arlington Whole Wheat Meal” is man- ufactured from pure wheat, and makes delicious bread. Graham, like flour, will keep in a cool, dry place for years. Indian Meal. In most families there is a large amount of this used, but the quantity purchased at a time depends upon the kind of meal selected. The common kind, which is made by grinding between two mill-stones, retains a great deal of moisture, and, in hot weather, will soon grow musty ; but the granulated meal will keep for any length oftime. The corn for this meal is first dried; and it takes about two years for this. Then the outer husks are removed, and the corn is ground by a pro- cess that produces grains like granulated sugar. After once using this meal one will not willingly go back to the old kind. Indian meal is made from two kinds of corn, Northern and Southern. The former gives the yellow meal, and is much richer than the Southern, of which white meal is made. Rye Meal. This meal, like the old-process Indian, will grow musty in a short time in hot weather, so that but a small quantity of it should be bought at a time. The meal is much better than the flour for all kinds of bread and muffins. Oat Meal. There are several kinds of oat meal—Scotch, Irish, Cana- 58 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. dian and American. The first two are sold in small packages, the Canadian and American in any quantity. It seems as if the Canadian and American should be the best because the freshest ; but the fact is the others are con- sidered the choicest. Many people could not eat oat meal in former years, owing to the husks irritating the lining of the stomach. There is now what is called pearled meal. All the husks are removed, and the oats are then cut. The coarse kind will keep longer than the fine ground, but it is best to purchase often, and have the meal as fresh as pos- sible. Cracked Wheat. This is the whole wheat just crushed or cut like the coarse oat meal, but unlike the meal. It will keep a long time. It is cooked the same as oat meal. That which is cut makes a handsomer dish than the crushed, but the latter cooks more quickly. Hominy. This is made from corn, and it comes in a number of sizes, beginning with samp and ending with a grade nearly as fine as coarse-granulated sugar. The finest grade is really the best, so many nice dishes can be made with it which you cannot make with the coarse. Hominy will keep a long time, and it can be bought in five-pound package or by the barrel. Sugar. The fine-granulated sugar is the best and cheapest for general family use. It is pure and dry; therefore, there is more in one pound of it than in a damp, brown sugar, besides its sweetening power being considerably greater. The price of sugar at wholesale is not much less than at retail, but time and trouble are saved by purchasing by the barrel. GROCERIES. 59 Spice. It is well to keep on hand all kinds of spice, both whole and ground. ‘They should not be in large quantities, as a good cook will use them very sparingly, and a good house- keeper will have too much regard for the health of her family and the delicacy of her food to have them used lavishly. For soups and sauces the whole spice is best, as it gives a delicate flavor, and does not color. A small wooden or tin box should be partly filled with whole mace, cloves, allspice and cinnamon, and a smaller paste-board box, full of pepper-corns, should be placed in it. By this plan you will have all your spices together when you season a soup or sauce. English Currants. These keep well, and if cleaned, washed and we/ dried, will improve in flavor by being kept. Raisins. In large families, if this fruit is much used, it is well to buy by the box. Time does not improve raisins. Soda, Cream of Tartar, Baking Powder. There should not be so much of these articles used as to require that they be purchased in large quantities. Cream of tartar is expensive, soda cheap. If one prefers to use baking powders there will be no need of cream of tartar, but the soda will still be required for gingerbread and brown bread, and to use with sour milk, etc. The advantage of baking powder is that it is prepared by chemists who know just the proportion of soda to use with the acid (which should be cream of tartar), and the result will be invariable if the cook is exact in measuring the other ingredients. When an inexperienced cook uses the soda and cream of tartar there is apt to be a little too much of one or the 60 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. other. Just now, with the failure of the grape crops in France, from which a greater part of the crystals in use come, cream of tarter is extremely high, and substitutes, such as phosphates, are being used. To be Always Kept on Hand. Besides the things already mentioned, housekeepers should always have a supply of rice, pearl barley, dried beans, split peas, tapioca, macaroni, vermicilli, tea, coffee, chocolate, corn-starch, molasses, vinegar, mustard, pepper, salt, capers, canned tomato, and any other canned vegetables of which a quantity is used. Of the many kind of molasses, Porto Rico is the best for cooking purposes. It is well to have a few such condiments as curry powder (a small bottle will last for years), Halford: sauce, essence of anchovies and mushroom ketchup. These give variety to the flavoring, and, if used carefully, will not be an expensive addition, so little is needed for a dish. CARE OF FOOD. 61 Cnn, OF FOOD: A great saving is made by the proper care and use ot cooked and uncooked food. The first and great considera- tion is perfect cleanliness. The ice chest and cellar should be thoroughly cleaned once a week ; the jars in which bread is kept must be washed, scalded and dried thoroughly at least twice a week. When cooked food is placed in either the ice chest or cellar it should be perfectly cool; if not, it will absorb an unpleasant flavor from the close atmosphere of either place. Meat should not be put directly on the ice, as the water draws out the juices. Always place it in a pan, and this may be set on the ice. When you have a refriger- ator where the meat can be hung, a pan is not needed. In winter, too, when one has a cold room, it is best to hang meats there. These remarks apply, of course, only to joints and fowl. The habit which many people have of putting steaks, chops, etc., in the wrapping paper on ice, is a very bad one. When purchasing meat always have the trim- mings sent home, as they help to make soups and sauces. Every scrap of meat and bone left from roasts and broils should be saved for the soup-pot. Trimmings from ham, tongue, corned beef, etc., should all be saved for the many relishés they will make. Cold fish can be used in salads and warmed up in many palatable ways. In fact, nothing that comes on the table is enjoyed more than the little dishes which an artistic cook will make from the odds and ends left from a former meal. By artistic cook is meant not a pro- 62 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. fessional, but a woman who believes in cleanliness and hot dishes, and that there is something in the appearance as well as in the taste of the food, and who does not believe that a quantity of butter, or of some kind of fat, is essential to the success of nearly every dish cooked. The amount of food spoiled by butter, good butter too, is surprising. One should have a number of plates for cold food, that each kind may be kept by itself. The fat trimmings from beef, pork, veal, chickens and fowl should be tried out while fresh, and then strained. The fowl and chicken fat ought to be kept in a pot by itself, for shortening and delicate frying. Have a stone pot for it, holding about a quart, and another, holding three or four quarts, for the other kinds. The fat that has been skimmed from soups, boiled beef and fowl, should be cooked rather slowly until the sediment falls to the bottom and there is not the shadow of a bubble. It can then be strained into the jar with the other fat ; but if strained while bubbles remain, there is water in it, and it will spoil quickly. The fat from sausages can also be strained into the larger pot. Another pot, holding about three quarts, should be kept for the fat in which articles of food have been fried. When you have finished frying, set the kettle in a cool place for about half an hour ; then pour the fat into the pot through a fine strainer, being care- ful to keep back the sediment, which scrape into the soap- grease. Inthis way you can fry in the same fat a dozen times, while if you are not careful to strain it each time, the crumbs left will burn and blacken all the fat. Occasionally, when you have finished frying, cut up two or three uncooked potatoes and put into the boiling fat. Set on the back of the stove for ten or fifteen minutes; then set in a cool place for fifteen minutes longer, and strain. The potatoes clarify the fat. Many people use ham fat for cooking pur- poses ; and when there is no objection to the flavor, it is nice CARE OF FOOD. 63 for frying eggs, potatoes, etc. But it should not be mixed with other kinds. The fat from mutton, lamb, geese, turkey or ducks will give an unpleasant flavor to anything with which it is used, and the best place for it is with the soap-grease. Every particle of soup and gravy should be saved, as a small quantity of either adds a great deal to many little dishes. The quicker food of all kinds cools the longer it keeps. This should be particularly remembered with soups and bread. Bread and cake must be thoroughly cooled before being put into box or jar. If not, the steam will cause them to mold quickly. Crusts and pieces of stale bread should be dried in a slow oven, rolled into fine crumbs on a board, and put away for croquettes, cutlets or anything that is breaded. Pieces of stale bread can be used for toast, griddle-cakes and puddings and for dressing for poultry and other kinds of meat. Stale cake can be made into puddings. The best tub butter will keep perfectly well without a brine if kept in a cool, sweet room. It is more healthful and satisfactory to buy the choicest tub butter and use itfor table and cooking purposes than to provide a fancy article for the table and use an inferior one in the preparation of the food. If, from any cause, butter becomes rancid, to each pint of it add one table-spoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of soda, and mix well; then add one pint of cold water, and set on the fire until it comes to the boiling point. Now set away to cool, and when cool and hard, take off the butter in acake. Wipe dry and put away for cooking purposes. It will be perfectly sweet. Milk, cream and butter all quickly absorb strong odors ; therefore, care must be taken to keep them in a cool, sweet room orin an ice chest. Cheese should be wrapped ina piece of clean linen and kept ina box. Berries must be kept in a cool place, and uncovered. 64 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. KITCHEN By Es EIN oe, Stove, or Range? The question often arises, even with old housekeepers, Which shall it be—a stove or a range? There are strong points in favor of each. For a small kitchen the range may be commended, because it occupies the least space, and does not heat a room as intensely as a stove, although it will heat water enough for kitchen and bath-room purposes for a large family. That the range is popular is evident from the fact that nearly every modern house is supplied with one ; and thus the cost of, and cartage for, stoves is generally saved to tenants in these days. There are these advantage of a stove over a set range: it requires less than half as much fuel and is more easily managed—that is, the fire can be more quickly started, and if it gets too low, more easily replenished and put in working order; and the ovens can be more quickly heated or cooled. But, although you can have a water-back and boiler with most modern stoves or, as they are now called, portable ranges, the supply of hot water will not be large. And you cannot roast before the fire as with a range. So near perfection have the makers of ranges and stoves come that it would be difficult to speak of possible improv- ments, especially in stoves. This can be said not of a few, KITCHEN FURNISHING. 65 but of a great many manufacturers, each having his special merit. And where the products are so generally good, it is hard to mention one make in preference to another. When purchasing, it is well to remember, that one of simple construc- tion is the most easily managed and does not soon get out of order. No single piece of furniture contributes so much to the comfort of a family as the range or stove, which should, therefore, be the best of its kind. Gas and Oil Stoves. During the hot weather a gas or oil stove is a great com- fort. The “Sun Dial,” manufactured by the Goodwin Gas Stove Co., Philadelphia, is a “perfect gem,’ roasting, baking, broiling, etc., as well as a coal stove or range. Indeed, meats roasted or broiled by it are jucier than when cooked over or before coals. The peculiar advantage of oil and gas stoves is that they can be coveniently used for a short time, say for the preparation of a meal, at a trifling expense. The cost of running a gas stove throughout the day is, however, much greater than that of a coal stove, while an oil stove can be run cheaper than either. There are a great many manufacturers of oil stoves, and as a natural consequence, where there is so much competi- tion, the stoves are nearlyall good. One would not think of doing the cooking for a large family with one or, indeed, two of them ; but the amouut of work that can be accomplished with a single stove is remarkable. They are a great comfort in hot weather, many small families doing their entire cook- ing with them. Refrigerators. The trouble with most refrigerators is that the food kept in them is apt to have a peculiar taste. This is owing in a great measure to the wood used in the construction of the 5 66 MISS PARLOA'S NEW COOK BOOK. interior and for the shelves. On the inside of the Eddy chest-shaped refrigerator there is not a particle of wood, and the food kept in it is always sweet. It is simply a chest, where the ice is placed on the bottom and slate shelves put on top. With this style of refrigerator the waste of ice is much greater than in those built with a separate compart- ment for ice, but the food is more healthful. Utensils. The following is a list of utensils with which a kitchen should be furnished. But the housekeeper will find that there is continually something new to be bought. If there be much fancy cooking, there must be an ice cream freezer, jelly and charlotte russe moulds and many little pans and cutters. The right way is, of course, to get the essential articles first, and then, from time to time, to add those used in fancy cooking: Two cast-iron pots, size depending upon range or stove (they come with the stove). One griddle. One porcelain-lined preserving kettle. One fish kettle. Three porcelain-lined stew-pans, hold- ing from one to six quarts. One No. 4 deep Scotch frying kettle. One waffle iron. Three French polished frying-pans, Nos. 1,3 and 6, Four stamped tin or granite ware stew- pans, holding from one pint to four quarts. One double boiler, holding three quarts. One Dover egg-beater. One common wire beater. One meat rack. One dish pan. Two bread pans, holding six and eight quarts respectively. Two milk pans. Two Russian-iron baking pans—two sizes. Four tin shallow baking pans. Four deep pans for loaves. Two quart measures, One deep, round pan of granite-ware, with cover, for braising. One deep Russian-iron French roll pan. Two stamped tin muffin pans. One tea-pot. One coffee-pot. One coffee biggin. One chocolate pot. One colander. One squash strainer. One gravy strainer. One strainer that will fit on to one of the cast-iron pots. One frying-basket. One melon mould. Two brown bread tins. One round pudding mould. Two vegetable cutters. One tea canister. One coffee canister. One cake box. One spice box. One dredger for flour. One for powdered sugar. KITCHEN FURNISHING. 67 One smaller dredger for salt. One, still smaller, for pepper. One boning knife. One French cook's knife. One butcher's knife. One large fork. Two case-knives and forks. Two vegetable knives. Four large mixing spoons. Two table-spoons. Six teaspoons. One larding needle, One trussing needle. One set of steel skewers. One wire dish cloth. One whip churn, One biscuit cutter. One hand basin. One jagging iron. Three double broilers—one each for toast, fish and meat. One long-handled dipper. One large grater. One apple corer. One flour scoop. One sugar scoop. One lemon squeezer. Chopping tray and knife. Small wooden bowl to use in chopping. All the tin ware should be made from xx tin. Moulding board of good hard wood. Board for cutting bread on. One tor cutting cold meats on, Thick board, or block, on which to break bones, open lobsters, etc. A rolling pin. Wooden buckets for sugar, Graham, In- dian and rye meal. Wooden boxes for rice, tapioca, crackers, barley, soda, cream of tartar, etc. Covers for flour barrels. Wire flour sieve—not too large. A pail for cleaning purposes. One vegetable masher. Stone pot for bread, holding ten quarts. One for butter, holding six quarts. One for pork, holding three quarts. One dust pan and brush, One scrubbing brush. One broom. One blacking brush. - Four yellow earthen bowls, holding from six quarts down, Four white, smooth-bottomed bowls, hold- ing one quart each, Six cups, holding half a pint each. One bean pot. One earthen pudding dish. It will then keep its shape, and wear three times as long as if made of thin stuff. Scouring with sand soon ruins tin, the coarse sand scratching it and causing it to rust. Sapolio, a soap which comes for cleaning tins, wood-‘ork and paint, will be found of great value in the kit-hen. Granite ware, as now made, is perfectly safe to use. It will not become discolored by any kind of cooking, and isso perfectly smooth that articles of food will not stick and burn in it as quickly as in the porcelain-lined pans. Nearly every utensil used in the kitchen is now made in granite ware. The mixing spoons are, however, not desirable, as the coating of granite peels off when the spoon is bent. Have no more heavy cast-iron articles than are really needed, for they are not easily handled, and are, therefore, less likely to be kept 68 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. as clean, inside and out, as the lighter and smoother ware. The Scotch Kettle is quite cheap, and will be found of great value for every kind of frying, as it is so deep that Scotch Kettle. enough fat can put into it to immerse the article to be cooked. The French polished frying-pans are cae particularly nice, because they can be Cut the paper on the dark lines — (there are eight), Crease on every dotted line. At each end turn the parts lettered A over that lettered B, so that the lines ¢ rest on the line d, and one A overlaps the other. Fold the parts B up against the backs of the parts A. Fold inward those parts of the edges which are lightly shaded, and fold outward those which are heavily shaded. Stick the parts of the box together with the white of an egg mixed with a little flour. Remember that it is a box that is to be made, and after the first two steps it may be easy to guess how to complete the work. By tracing a copy of the diagram one obtains a good model one quarter of the size the case should be; that is, HOW— 397 the square should be five inches on a side instead of two and one-half. After experimenting with this the shape may be varied to suit the taste. Stiff white paper should be used. Cases can be bought of restaurateurs. They are used for biscuit glacé, biscuit soufié, and other dainties. To Lard. Larding is a simple operation. The pork should be firm and young (salt, of course). Cut thin, even slices parallel with the rind, and cut these in long, narrow strips that will fit into the needle. For beef, veal, turkey or chicken the strips should be about as large round as a lead pencil, and about three and a half inches long; and for birds, chops, and sweetbreads they should be about as large round as a match. Three slices are all that can be cut from one piece of pork, because when you get more than an inch away from the rind, the pork is so tender that it will break when in the needle. Put the strips in a bowl of broken ice, to harden. Have the meat, if beef or veal, free of skin and gristle. Put a strip (also called a lardoon) into the necdle as far as it will go. With a skewer or knife draw a line on both sides of the meat and along the upper part. Thrust the needle into the meat at one of the side lines ; and when it is about half way through to the top of the piece, press the steel slightly with the thumb and fore-finger, to hold the lardoon in place until it has entered the meat. Now push the needle through to the top, and gently draw it out, leaving about three-quarters of an inch of the strip exposed at both the side and upper part of the meat. That part of the pork which is hidden should be half an inch under the surface. The needle’s course is as if it started under the eaves of a gable roof and came out at the ridge-pole. Continue until all the rows are filled with lardoons. Two rows are enough for a fillet of beef. If the 398 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. strips are too large for the needle they will be pressed out as soon as the lower part of the needle enters the meat. To Stew. The meat and vegetables for stews should, when it is pos- sible, be browned ina little fat, and hot water should then be added. As soon as the stew comes to the boiling point, skim it, and set back where it will just simmer, not boil, the given time. The pieces of meat in a stew should come to the table whole and tender and juicy, and they will be in this condition only with séow cooking. To Braise. Braising is one of the best modes of preparing meat. There are pans expressly for braising ; but any deep tin, sheet-iron, or, granite-ware pan, with a cover, will answer quite well. The meat to be cooked must always be browned in some kind of fat, the vegetables fried in the same fat, and enough stock (if possible) or water be added to half cover the meat. The pan should then be covered and placed in the oven. .The meat must cook s/ow/y and thoroughly, and be basted fre- quently. No matter how tough, if properly braised it will become tender and juicy. If, however, the cooking is hur- ried the dish will be spoiled. To Fry. There are two modes of frying. One is to have just enough fat to prevent the article from burning or sticking ; and the other is to have enough not only to cover the food, but to float it. The latter is by far the better way, as all the sur- face of the article is instantly hardened, and, therefore, will not absorb fat. It is also the cheaper way, because the fat can be used so many times. If the drippings saved from meats, soups and gravies should not be enough for frying purposes, buy pure lard to use with it. Many recommend buying beef suet for this same purpose; but food fried in suet is more liable to absorb fat than that fried in lard. The HOW— 899 reason of this is that lard can be heated to a higher tem- perature without burning than can beef or any of the other fats. Butter is also often recommended for frying. If used, it should be free of salt. But aside from being so expensive, it is not so nice for frying purposes as fats, for it burns at a much lower temperature than either beef fat or lard. The Scotch kettle is the Jes¢ utensil for frying. It rests on a rim, which lifts the bottom from the stove, and the inside surface is polished very smooth ; therefore, the fat is less liable to burn than if the surface were rough and the bottom rested on the hot stove. The fat should heat gradually ; and when the food is plunged into it a slight smoke should rise from the cemtre. It will smoke at the sides some time before it has become hot enough for frying. After the food has been put in, let the kettle stand on the hottest part of the stove until it regains its former temperature, and then set it back where it is not quite so hot. In frying fish-balls, doughnuts, etc., put only a few at a time in the boiling fat ; then wait a few moments for the fat to regain its former tem- perature, and put in a fewmore. Fish-balls are often spoiled by the putting of a great many in the kettle at once. The temperature of the fat is instantly reduced, and the balls absorb the fat. When an article of food is fried, drain the fat from it, and lay it on a sheet of brown paper in a warm pan. The paper will absorb any fat that may remain on the food. As soon as you are through frying, take the fat from the fire, and when cooled a little, strain it. (See the chapter on the Care of Food.) If the directions given are followed, there will be no difficulty in having food fried without its being saturated with grease. To Serve. The dishes on which meats, fish, jellies and creams are placed should be large enough to leave a margin of an inch 400 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. or so between the food and the lower edge of the border of the dish. It is well to pour the sauce for cold puddings around the pudding, especially if there will be a contrast in color. It is a great improvementto have the sauce poured around the article instead of over it, and to have the border of the dish garnished with bits of parsley, celery tops or carrot leaves. When sauce is poured around meat or fish the dish must be quite hot, or the sauce will cool quickly. Small rolls or sticks of bread are served with soup. Pota- toes and bread are usually served with fish, but many people prefer to serve only bread. Butter is not served at the more elegant dinners. Two vegetables will be sufficient in any course. Cold dishes should be very cold, and hot dishes hot. It is a good idea to have a dish of sliced lemons for any kind of fish, and especially for those broiled or fried. Melons, cantelopes, cucumbers and radishes, and toma- toes, when served in slices, should all be chilled in the ice chest. Be particular not to overdo the work of decorating. Even a simple garnish adds much to the appearance of a dish, but too much decoration only injures it. Garnishes should be so arranged as not to interfere with serving. Potato-balls and thin fried potatoes make a nice garnish for all kinds of fried and broiled meats and fish. Cold boiled beets, carrots and turnips, and the whites of hard-boiled eggs, stamped out with a fancy vegetable cutter, make a pretty garnish for cold or hot meats. Thin slices of toast, cut into triangles, make a good garnish for many dishes. Whipped cream is a delicate garnish for all Bavarian creams, blanc-manges, frozen puddings and ice creams. HOW— 401 Arrange around jellies or creams a border of any kind of delicate green, like smilax or parsley, or of rose leaves, and dot it with bright colors — pinks, geraniums, verbenas or roses. Remember that the green should be dark and the flowers small and bright. A bunch of artificial rose leaves, for decorating dishes of fruit at evening parties, lasts for years. Natural leaves are preferable when they can be ob- tained. Wild roses, buttercups and nasturtiums, if not used too freely, are suitable for garnishing a salad. 402 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. BILLS OF PA es What to set before guests at the table, or, indeed, before one’s own family, is sometimes a perplexing matter for house- keepers to decide, and a few bills of fare are given on the following pages as an aid. The number of dishes can readi- ly be increased or diminished. Any of the company din- ners can be prepared at home almost as easily as an ordi- nary dinner, success depending not upon a great number of dishes, but upon a few well cooked and well served, and a hostess apparently free from care. A great part of any company dinner can be prepared the day before. The vegetables can be prepared and put in cold water, the game or meat be larded, the meat or fish cooked for croquettes and salads, the salad dressing made ready, and jellies, creams and cold puddings be made.. Ifa clear soup (and that is always best) is to be served, it also should be made. In the morning the bread and cake can be baked, and the fish and other dishes prepared. Early in the afternoon freeze the creams and sherbets. Make a list of the principal dishes. With each dish have a list of the vegetables, sauces or other things to be served, and the time for serving. This will in- sure the dishes being ready at the proper moment. Have the plates and other dishes counted and ready to warm — and, by the way, arrange to have these and the silver washed where the noise cannot reach the guests. BILLS OF FARE. 403 Twelve seems to be a good number of people for a dinner party. But very little increase in the quantity of material will be required if the number should be as large as sixteen or eighteen. For six or eight the quantity of soup, oysters, creams, sherbets and coffee, can be diminished one-third, but that of meats and fish should not be much smaller. It is supposed that the coffee will be served in small cups. Although it is usually drunk clear, cream and sugar should be offered with it. People differ as to the kinds of breakfast required. Many believe in the French custom of having only chocolate or coffee, rolls, and perhaps eggs in some form. Again, others believe in and require a substantial breakfast. There is no limit to the variety of dishes that can be prepared for breakfast and tea if the cook has taste and judgment in using the remains of meats, fish and vegetables left from dinner. Either oatmeal or hominy should always be served at breakfast. When it is possible, have fruit for the first course. BREAKFAST. Fruit. Oatmeal and Cream. Baked Potatoes. Mutton Chops. Rye Muffins, Hominy Griddle-Cakes. Coffee, Tea or Chocolate. 26 404 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. Fruit. Oatmeal. Broiled Ham. Omelet. Graham Muffins. Toast. Griddle-Cakes. Coffee or Tea. Fruit. Escaloped Meat. Dropped Eggs. Raised Muffins. Corn Cake. Drinks. DINNERS FOR TWELVE. Clear Soup (five pints). Fish (four or five pounds, baked, boiled, or escaloped). Bread, and Potatoes if you like. Chicken Croquettes, or any kind of Patties. Fillet of Beef, Larded (two and a half to three pounds), with Mushroom Sauce. Potato Puffs. Sweetbreads (six). Green Peas (two quarts, if fresh, or two cans of French peas). Lettuce Satad (French dressing; two large heads of lettuce). BILLS OF FARE, 405 A Cold Pudding. Ice Cream (one gallon). Cake. Crackers. Cheese. Coffee. The cost of a dinner like this, when prepared at home, depends somewhat upon the market, but will rarely exceed twenty-five dollars. Oysters on a Block of Ice (two quarts). Consommé @ la Royale (five pints). Baked Fish (five pounds), Hollandaise Sauce (double the rule). Cheese Souflé (double the rule). Roast Chicken (nine to twelve pounds). Mashed Potatoes (twelve). Green Peas (two quarts or two cans). Celery. Cranberry Jelly. Oyster Patties (fourteen). Lettuce Salad (two heads of lettuce with French dressing). Water Crackers (a dozen anda half). Neufchatel Cheese (two packages). Orange Sherbet (three quarts). Frozen Cabinet Pudding (the rule given), Apricot Sauce. Glacé Méringue (the rule given). Sponge Cake. Fruit Coffee (the rule for filtered coffee). 406 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. Potage & la Reine (five pints). Sardine Canapees (two dozen). Olives, Roast Turkey (about eight pounds), Chestnut Stuffing and Sauce. Macaroni, a1’ Italienne (twice the rule). Cranberry Jelly. Plain Boiled Potatoes. Lettuce Salad (two large heads). Custard Souflé (twice the rule), Creamy Sauce. Frozen Pudding (the rule sive) Lemon Sherbet. Cake. Fruit. Coffee (three pints of filtered). Crackers and Cheese. Oyster Soup (two quarts). Smelts & la Tartare (three dozen). Chicken Vol-au- Vent (a large one). Rolled Rib Roast (about twelve pounds). Polish Sauce. : Grape Jelly. Cauliflower, with Cream Sauce. Potato Soufflé. Rice Croquettes (two dozen). Larded Grouse with Bread Sauce (three grouse). Potatoes, @ Ja Parisienne. Dressed Celery (two heads). Royal Diplomatic Pudding (the rule given). Raspberry Sherbet. (three quarts). Vanilla Ice Cream (three quarts). Cake. Fruit. Coffee (three pints of the filtered). Crackers and Cheese BILLS OF FARE. 407 GAME DINNER. Meg Merrilies’ Soup. Grouse Soup. Stewed Terrapin. Turtle Steak. Larded Grouse, Bread Sauce and Crordbe. Broiled Quail on Toast, Currant Jelly. Potato Croquettes. Escaloped Tomato. Roast Loin of Venison, Game Sauce. Potato Puffs. Cauli- flower, with Cream Sauce. Roast Ducks, Olive Sauce. Potatoes @ la Parisienne. French Peas. Dressed Celery. Lemon Sherbet. Charlotte Russe. Nesselrode Pudding. Crackers and Cheese. Coffee. Fruit. SUPPER FOR FIFTY. Boned Turkey (one). Tongue in Jelly (two), Chicken Salad (six quarts). Escaloped Oysters (six quarts). Two quarts of olives. One hundred small rolls, buttered. Fifty Sar- dine Sandwiches. Jelly (four moulds). Orange Bavarian Cream (four moulds). Frozen Pudding (three gallons). Chocolate Ice Cream (two gallons). Vanilla (ten quarts). Pistachio (ten quarts). Mixed Cake (three baskets). Coffee (twelve quarts). 408 MISS PARLOA’S NEW COOK BOOK. CHILDREN’S PARTY (FIFTY). —_— Chicken Sandwiches. Tongue Sandwiches. Buttered Rolls. Buttered Slices of Bread. Richmond Maids of Honor. G@dteaw St. Honoré. Dominos and other Small Cakes. Vanilla and Chocolate Ice Cream. Candies and Fruit. The meat for the sandwiches should be chopped fine. The rolls must be small, and the buttered bread should be cut in thin slices, two slices be put together, and then be cut into long: strips or little squares. There should be one hun- dred sandwiches, seventy-five rolls, one hundred slices of bread, forty maids of honor, six dishes of géteau St. flonoré, two gallons of each kind of ice cream, and a gener- ous supply of small cakes, candies and fruit. FAMILY DINNERS—SPRING. Oyster Soup. Spinach. Fricandeau of Veal. Mashed Potatoes. Lettuce Salad. Orange Sherbet. Cake. ow Potato Soup. Boiled Haddock, Lobster Sauce. Potato Souflé. Chicken Croquettes, Cream Sauce. Chocolate Blanc-Mange. Scotch Broth. Broiled Halibut, Maitre @ Hotel Butter. French Fried Potatoes. Stewed Tomatoes. Braised Tongue. Rice. Ground Rice Pudding. BILLS OF FARE. 409 Lobster Soup. Roast Beef. Potatoes. Yorkshire Pudding. Squash. Cabbage Salad. Lemon Sponge. Turbot &@ la Creme. Cold Roast Beef with Purée of Potatoes. Stewed Tomatoes. Boiled Macaroni. Ice Cream. Cake. Mock Bisque Soup. Roast Chicken. Currant Jelly. Potato Puffs. Asparage?. Corn-Starch Pudding. FAMILY DINNERS—SUMMER. « Asparagus Soup. Boiled Blue Fish, Maitre @ Hétel Butter. Veal Cutlets, White Sauce. Green Peas. Dressed Cucumbers. Mashed Potatoes. Charlotte Russe. Salmon, White Sauce. Green Peas. Potatoes. Rice Croquettes. Lettuce Salad. Strawberry Bavarian Cream. Green Pea Soup. Braised Fillet of Beef. Potatoes & la Parisienne. String Beans. Lobster Salad. Frozen Pudding. Cake. 410 MISS PARLOA'’S NEW COOK BOOK. Cream of Barley Soup. Soft-Shell Crabs. Fried Egg Plant. Blanquette of Chicken in a Rice Border. 7 Shelled Beans. Strawberry Ice Cream. Cake. Vegetable Soup. Roast Lamb, Mint Sauce. Potato Croquettes. Green Peas. Salmon Salad. Frozen Apricots. Cake. Baked Fish, Tomato Sauce. Potatoes. Sweetbreads, Cream Sauce. Green Peas. i Tapioca Pudding. t FAMILY DINNERS—FALL. Macaroni Soup. Boiled Fish, Egg Sauce. Celery. Roast Ducks, Game Sauce. Stuffed Tomatoes. French Fried Potatoes. Eve’s Pudding, Wine Sauce. Fried Smelts, Tartare Sauce. Boiled Turkey, Oyster Sauce. Macaroni & I’Italienne. Boiled Potatoes. Escaloped Cauliflower. Lemon Pudding. White Soup. Baked Fish, Hollandaise Sauce. Salmis of Turkey in a Potato Border. Stewed Celery with Cream Sauce. Potato Salad. Apple and Rice Pudding. BILLS OF FARE. 411 FAMILY DINNERS—WINTER. Fish Chowder. Braised Beef. Macaroni with Tomato Sauce. Baked Sweet Potatoes. Potato Puffs. Oyster Salad. Cabinet Pudding, Creamy Sauce. Beef Stew with Dumplings. Mutton Cutlets, Tomato Sauce. Thin Fried Potatoes. Vegetable Salad. Blanc-Mange with Cream. Celery Soup. Mashed Turnips. Boiled Fowl, Bechamel Sauce. Boiled Potatoes. Beef Steak, Brown Oyster or Mushroom Sauce. Potatoes & la Parisienne. Orange Cream. Cream of Rice Soup. Baked Cod, Tomato Sauce. Riced Potatoes. Rice. Beef Olives. Squash. Danish Pudding. Clear Soup. Cusk, @ la Créme, Boiled Potatoes. Roast Leg of Mutton, Currant Jelly. Mashed Potato. Mashed Turnip. Ice Cream. Cake. Tomato Soup. Escaloped Fish. Stewed Celery. Mutton with Purée of Potatoes. Macaroni with Cheese. Apple Tapioca Pudding. 412 ILLUSTRATIONS. ILLUSTRATIONS. Aitchbone. . » Apple parer .. . Back of the rump. .... Bain-marie....- Bain-marie pan. ...-- R ae Baked fish, Hollandaise sauce. . 2...» Basting spoon. . s+ + Bird roaster... . 6 - Boning knife Bread grater. . . Bread pans. .... Biown breadtin. . - Buckets. Cake box. . se ee Carcass of mutton. . . Carving knife and for Chuck ribs. .... Coffee biggin ... - Coffee pot. » ..es Colander . Confectioner’s tube . . Crown moulds. . . . Devilled lobster Double boiler... .- Double broilers. . . Dover egg beater... Dredging box. ...+. Dripping pan... - Escalop shell. . + + Face of the rump. . . . oe Fillet of beef, mushroom sauce... s+ + + First five ribs... Fore-quarter of beef. . . - French cook’s knife. . 1. . French frying-pan. ... French pie mould... . French roll pans. . Frying basket... . - se ee cee ve oe ee . oe eee . . eee Frontispiece. . oc Ae uae das te Taree Gee 4! UZ see we eee 69 aoe ey Beege dah st FO + 73 + 76; 77 es 8 ee ee 75 eee eee ee sae «+ 78 eee eee ew 3r oe ce co) cee ee ee 23 we eee 7S eee ee ee 7S 74 81 80 Frontispiece. 73 o 8 74 77 ° 77 oa Fe 8r see 24 ee ee ee ve ee te we eh ee ee ee Frontispiece, Pele We ae wag 26 7o 68 80 71 7x Garnishing knife . . Hind-quarter ofbeef. 2... 02. a ie Ice cream freezer. . 6. Jagging iron. ... Jelly moulds Knife box. . . Ladle Lady’s fingers pans... . Larding and trussing needles... . . Legof mutton. ... Lemon squeezer. . .. . Lobster salad... . Loin of beef... ... Long rump steak . Meat rack: «6 3 @ + Melon mould. . . Milk pan. . Muffin pan... Paper cases .... Potato slicer... Quart measure . . Rattle-ran. 26.0 ee Rice mould... . Sis ie faite de ae Roundiof beefs: 62 we ee ee arieh Cuca. SAPs, Round pudding mould ILLUSTRATIONS. . a 413 PAGE. . » . Frontispiece. ery es RS 2S sey 1g SEF Og OAK RA See eas % 2a ee + « Frontispiece. Royal diplomatic pudding... . . eR gy Bane ie BRUM 2556.9. Ge hes We a shee te eae ts Got teu ae aee sai tosnds rey Rump, showing end which joins the round . Se Rte ea tA BOE re Yor SEG Rump steak, cut with the grain. «2... ee ee ee ita elie ta 28 Saddle of mutton and French chops . . baal ge aw BF Saucepans sae vs aa Se Heed & ra! oe 6 Be ae 76 Scotch kettle . . ai 8 : ‘ a Beare 168 Short fillet... . wae se sb eee a wis a EG Short rump steak... ..... in c . . eS ae ee 17 Sirloin roast, secondcut ...... : ’ Na Cae Se ee CE Skewers: 4 26 wai Hee ee se . ae ara ap ow TZ Spice boxe io: eee Ses be ce ues wo : Ae ae .. 79 Squash ‘strainers < a.% @ ses 4 3 owe @ ws e . eb ea 74 Steamer for pot. . sess seseses é artes ae we BF Steamer for tea-kettle. . 2... eee : ahr, ~ -aemiabar ats 73 Stews pans coe Seca yer Aw oes, ei gece Gea Tea caddy ......- 4) Si 2 FR Ge Se ee Tinkitchen. .... Re ee ee eee . Vegetable cutter... 2-4 see eres SC zeate RR se Vegetablescoop. «pe eee eet eee lt et Whip churn... 2 ec ee ee ee et Wooden boxes .....4- abs . eon te ARE aoe 76 cy 2) ae see ee 68 She Spe 80 ie Seas 7° see ee ee 73 bee ae a 978 414 Allemand sauce, Almond Bavarian cream, ice cream, pudding, Almonds, To blanch Amber pudding, Ames cake, Amherst pudding, Anchovy sauce, Angel cake, Apple and Indian pudding, and rice pudding, charlotte, fritters, ginger, méringue pudding, porcupine, pudding, Baked pudding, Dutch soufié, tapioca pudding, Apples, Pickled sweet Apricot ice cream, Apricots, Frozen Artichokes, Asparagus, salad, and salmon salad, soup, with cream, Aspic jelly, Bacon dressing for salads, Baking powder, Banana ice cream, Barberry jelly, ketchup, Barley stew, Bass, Batter and fruit pudding, Bavarian cream, Almond Chocolate “INDEX. INDEX. PAGE. 221 289 - 296 269 392 263 318 267 228 317 268 266 307 193 339 271 277 265 265 266 264 342 294 303 53 50 215 215 96 250 147 59 294 340 346 379 43 266 289 290 PAGE. Bavarian Cream, Continued. Coffee 290 Orange 288 Peach 289 Pineapple 289 Strawberry 287 Beans, 5 Baked 254 Bechamel Sauce, 221 Beer, see ‘‘Marketing” in Index. Alamode 160 Boiled corned 131 Braised 137 Cannelon of 161, 162 fillet, 2 2’ Allemande, 159 a la Hollandaise, 159 in jelly, 159 larded, 158 How to com 392 Macaronied 161 olives, 163 Potted 347 roasted, with Yorkshire pudding, 134 roulette, 163 salad, 214 steak, broiled, 136 stew, 139, 376 tongue, Braised 165 in jelly, 166 Beets, Pickled 254 Beurre noir, 225 BILts oF Fare, 402 Breakfast, 403 Children’s party, 408 Dinners for twelve, 404 Family Dinners, Spring, 408 Summer, 409 Autumn, 410 Winter, 4Ir Game dinner, BILts oF Fare, Continned. Supper for fifty, Bird’s nest pudding, Biscuit Glace, Black bean soup, Blackberries, Preserved Black cake, Black-fish, Black pudding, Blanc-mange, Chocolate made with gelatine, isinglass, sea moss farina, Blanquette of chicken, of veal and ham, Blueberries, Pickled Blue-fish, Boiled salad dressing, Boiling meats, Bombe Glacee, Boned turkey, Border, Jelly Potato Rice Bouillon, Bouquet salad, Braising, BreabD, Brown fried for soups, Graham made with dried yeast, sauce, Sticks, Togus Yeast BREAKFAST AND TEA, Breaded sausages, Cakes, Corn Flannel Gems, Griddle cakes, Graham Hominy Indian Squash Hominy drop cakes, Sally Lunn, Snow pan-cakes., Squash biscuit, Waffles, Indian Raised INDEX. PAGE. 407 275 303 89 336 318 43 269 284 283 283 283 185 186 342 43 209 130 298 145 234 Igr Igo 85 214 398 380 384 384 383 231 383 384 382, 383 352 364 369 366 369 370 37° 369 366 363, 367 366 367, 368 368 415 PAGE, BREAKFAST AND TEA, Continued. Waffles, Rice 369 Canapees, 358 Chicken cutlets, 354 in jelly, 353 livers and bacon, 355 livers in pagillotes, 356 livers, saute’ 355 Corn pie, 359 Ecos, brouille; 375 Creamed 374 Dropped 373 Hard-boiled 374 Omelets, 370 to 373 Poached 373 Scotch 375 Scrambled 373 Soft-boiled 373 Spanish 374 Stuffed 375 sur le plat, 374 Ham and eggs on toast, 357 Ham croquettes, 358 Hominy, 359 Kidneys, & la maitre d’ hotel, 357 Broiled 357 sauté, 357 Stewed 356 Liver and bacon, 354 Broiled 354 Curry of 355 fried in crumbs, 354 saute, 354 Sauté, with piquant sauce, 355 Lyonnaise tripe, 352 Meat and potato sandwiches, 352 fritters, 352 hash, 351 Minced veal and eggs, 352 Muffins, Corn 362 English 360 Fried Indian 363 Graham 362 Hominy 365 Raised 362 Rice 365 Rye 364 Mutton, rechauffe” 353 Oat meal, 359 Strawberry short-cake, 360 Vegetable hash, 351 Welch rare-bit, 358 416 Brier Hill dessert, Broiling meats, Broth, Scotch Brown bread, Brown bread ice cream, Butter sauce, Cabbage, Minced salad, Cabinet pudding, Café ax lait, CAKE. Ames, Angel, Black, Caramel frosting for Chocolate, eclairs, icing, Composition, Cookies, Corn, Raised Thin Demon, Dominos, Eclairs Federal, Frosting for Gingerbread, Canada Fairy Hard Soft Gold, Golden frosting for Hermits, Jelly roll, Jumbles, Lady-fingers, Lady’s, Loaf, Marking in gold, Molasses pound, Nut, Orange, Plum, kneaded, Queen’s, Railroad, Regatta, Ribbon, Rice, Seed cakes, Shrewsbury cakes, INDEX. PAGE, 323) 339, 136 89 384 295 227 250 216 260 39° 317 318 332 331 332 330 363 363 364 37 326 332 329 329 333 Cake, Continued. Silver, Snow-flake, Sponge, drops, for charlotte russe, rusks, Sunshine, Taylor, Vanilla élairs, Viennois, Wedding, White fruit, Calf’s foot jelly, Canapees, Caper sauce, Caramel frosting, ice cream, Care OF Foon, Cauliflower, Escaloped Pickled salad, with cream sauce, Celery, salad, sauce, soup, stewed in stock, with cream sauce, Champagne sauce, Charlotte russe, Chartreuse Of chicken, of chicken and macaroni, of oysters, of vegetables and game, Cheese souffle; soup, Cherries, Preserved Chestnut sauce, Chickens, ala matelote, a@ la reine, a la Tartare, Blanquette of Broiled Chartreuse of chaud-froid, croquettes, curry, cutlets, fillets, PAGER, 316 325 327 327 322 317 323 33r 326 319 319 397 358 228 332 295 61 50 251 345 215 25r 5r 218 97 252 252 230 306 174 177 123 175 Ig 86 335 224 38 150 I5r I5t 185, ISr 174 179 198 182 354 180, 181 Chickens, Continued. force-meat, Fried fritters, in jelly, livers and bacon, in papillotes, saute, patties, pie, pillau, Potted quenelles, Roasted salad, soufié, stew with dumplings, Vol-au-vent of Chicory, Chocolate, Bavarian cream, ‘blanc”-mange, cake, éclairs, ice cream, icing, pie, pudding, roll, souffle, To scrape whips, Chops, Broiled mutton Chowder, Corn Fish Cider apple jelly, Cider jelly, Clam fritters, Cocoanut ice cream, Cod, in purée of potatoes, Matelote of To cook salt with lobster sauce, Boiled Coffee, Boiled Cafeau lait, Filtered Steamed INDEX. PAGE. 179) 182 to 323) 233 185 193 355 356 355 201 169 184 348 184 149 2ir 185 152 199 54 387 290 284 324 332 294 332 259 261 261 304 392 136 100 100 340 194 47 386 386 297 41 Ig 11o 105 387 388 39° 389 390 Coffee, Continued. Vienna Coffee Bavarian cream, ice cream, jelly, Composition cake, Consommé, Consommmé & la royal, Cookies, Corn, cake, chowder, oysters, pie, pudding, soup, Court-bouillon, Crab-apple jelly, Crab-apples, Preserved Crabs, Cream & Ja Versailles, fritters, méringue, of barley soup, of celery soup, of rice soup, of tartar, salad dressing, sauces, To whip Croquettes, Chicken Lobster Oyster Potato: Rice Rice and meat Royal Salmon Shad roe Crbustade, Oyster To make a 417 PAGE. 363, 45, 46, 221, 195) Crumbs, To fry (under Bread Sauce) Crust patties, Cucumber salad, Cucumbers, Pickled Currant jelly, jelly sauce, sherbet, Currants, English Preserved Spiced 343» 399% 390 290 295 309 320 84 86 330 53 364 rI00 253 359 254 ror 105 342 336 129 284 194 3iL 98 97 98 59 208 222 393 198 197 196 198 198 197 196 197 197 I2n IQt 231 202 215 53 344 349 230 302 59 335 343 418 Curry of chicken, of lobster, of veal, Cusk, @lacreme, Custard sougle; Custards, Soft Soft caramel Cutlets, & la duchesse, Game, & la royale Lobster Mutton served in sapillotes, Veal Damsons, Preserved Dandelions, Danish pudding, Date pudding, Demon cake, DESSERT. Apple charlotte, Bavarian creams, Biscuit Glacé, Blanc-mange, Bombe Glacée, Brier Hill Dessert, Charlotte russe, Chocolate whips, Cream @ la versailles, Cream méringues, Fanchonettes, Frozen apricots, peaches, pudding, raspberries, strawberries, Fruit Glacé, Gatean St. Honoré, Glacé Meringue, Ice Cream, Jellies, Kisses, Kiss wafers, Nesselrode pudding, Richmond maids of honor, Royal cream, Sherbets, Soft custards, Sougidé, Chocolate Omelet, & la creme, Omelet, & la poéle, Orange 187 128 189 188 189 337 50 269 264 317 287 to 231 283, 284 agi to 297 307 to 310 3Ir 299 312 285 300 to 303 304 305 305 304 Dssert, Continued Souffle, Surprise Sponges, Directions for freezing, Dominos, Down East pudding, Dressings for salads, Drinks, Chocolate, Cocoa, Coffee, Lemonade, Shells, Tea, Duchess soup, Duck, Roasted Dumplings, Eclairs, Chocolate Vanilla Economica DIsHEs. Barley stew, Beef stew, Calfs liver, Braised PAGE, 305 285 to 288 29 326 263 207 to 210 386 387 386 387 to 390 391 387 399 98 39 148 379 339 332 33 379 376 376 Cold meats, with puréeof potato, 377 Curry of cold meats, Dumplings, Escaloped meat, Shepherd’s pies, Eels, ala Tartare, Stewed Egg balls for soups, plant, Fried sauce, Ecos, br ouillé, Creamed Dropped Hard-boiled Omelets, Poached Scotch Scrambled Soft-boiled Spanish Stuffed sur le plat, Endive, English currants, To clean ENTREES. Alamode beef, 378 379 378 3779 378 45 117 117 I02 253 228 375 374 373 374 370 to 373 373 375 373 373 374 375 374 54 393 160 INDEX. PAGE. ENTREES, Continued. Beef olives, 163 Beef roulette, 163 Blanquette of chicken, 185 of veal and ham, 186 Braised tongue, 165 Cannelon of beef, 161, 162 Chartreuse of chicken, 174 of chicken and macaroni, 177 of vegetable and game, 175 Cheese soug#é, Igt Chicken, chaud-/roid, 179 Curry of 182 fillet, Braised 181 Fried 185 in jelly, 179 pie, 169 pillau, 184 quenelles, 182 to 184 souffle, 185 Cold game pie, Iq Croquettes, 195 to 199 Créustade, To make a Igt Cutlets, 187 to 189 Escaloped tongue, 166 Fillets, 158, 159, 166 Fricandelles of veal, 164 Fritters, 193, 194 Galatine of turkey, 177 of veal, 179 Lambs’ tongues in jelly, 167 Macaronied beef, 161 Ox-tails, 168 Pancakes, 204 Pasties of game and poultry, 170 Paté de fois gras, 172 Patties, 201, 202 Potato border, gt Ragouts of mutton and veal, 169 Rice border, 190 Rissoles, 192 Salmis of game, 186 Stewed lambs’ tongues, 167 Stewed steak with oysters, 1g0 Sweetbreads, 203, 204 Tongue in jelly, 166 Veal, Curry of 182 olives, 164 quenelles, 184 Vol-au-vents, 199, 200 Eve’s pudding, 266 Fanchonettes, 313 419 PAGE. Federal cake, 322 Fig ice cream, 297 pudding, 264 Fillet of beef, 158 to 160 of chicken, 180 to 182 of tongue, 166 of veal, 134 To remove a 180 FIsH, 103 See ‘‘Marketing” in Index. a la vinaigrette, 105 au gratin, 116 Baked 106 balls, ILO, IIL Boiled 104 cod with lobster sauce, 105 Court-bouillon, 105, haddock with lobster sauce, 105 Broiled 107 halibut, 108 chowder, 100 Crabs, 45, 46, 129 Cusk @ la creme, 112 Eels, 117 Escaloped 113 force-meat, 233 Fried 109 Lobsters, 124 to 128 Matelote of cod, Il4 Oysters, 117 to 124 salad, 213 Salmon, 42 Salt cod in purée of potato, TIL To cook 110 Salt fish souffle; 112 with dropped eggs, Tit Sauces for 219 Smelts, 115 Stewed 108 Terrapins, stewed, 129 Turbot & la créme, 114 Flannel cakes, 369 Flemish sauce, 223 Flounders, 42 Flour, 56 Foop, CARE oF 61 Force-meat, Chicken 233 Fish 233 for game, 232 Ham 232 Veal 233 Fowl, 38 27 420 Fowl, Continued. Boiled, with macaroni, with pork, French dressing for salads, paste for soups, Fricandeau of veal, Fricandelles of veal, Fritters, Apple Batter for Chicken Clam Cream Fruit Meat Oyster Potato Frosting, Carame} Chocolate Golden Frozen apricots, cabinet puddings, peaches, pudding, raspberries, strawberries, Fruit cake, White Fruit glacé, Frying, GamE, cutlets, & Za royale, Force-meat for Goose, roasted, Grouse,. larded, Partridges, larded, pie, Pigeons, broiled, in jelly, potted, Quail, broiled, larded, Rabbit, Curry of roasted, Salmis of Small birds, broiled, roasted, Venison, Roast leg of Saddle of Garnishes. Jelly border, Lemon points, Marinade, Cold INDEX. PAGE. 144 143 102 137 164 193 332 313 171 154 155 154 153 153 156 156 186 154 154 157 156 234 235 234 Garnishes, Continued. Marinade for fish, Gateau St. H. onoré, Geese, Gems, German pufis, Giblet soup, Gingerbread, Canada Fairy Hard Soft Glacé mfringue, Glaze, Gold cake, Golden frosting, Goose, Roasted Graham, bread, muffins, Grape jelly, Grapes, Preserved Green turtle soup, Griddle-cakes, Graham Hominy Indian _ Squash GROCERIES, Baking powder, Cracked wheat, Cream of tartar, English currants, Flour, Graham, Hominy, Meal, Indian Oat Rye Raisins, Soda, Spices, Sugar, Sundries, Grouse, soup, larded, Haddock, with lobster sauce, Halibut, Broiled with maitre d’ hotel butter, Ham and eggs on toast, Blanquette of veal and PAGEs 329 333 339 153 42 105 42 108 108 357 186 Ham, Continued. Boiled croquettes, force-meat, Potted Roasted Haricot of ox-tails, Hash, Hearts, Herbs sauce, Sweet To make a bouquet of Hermits, Hollandaise sauce, Hominy, drop cakes, muffins, Hot cabbage salad, How to blanch almonds, to boil sugar, to braise, to clean and truss poultry, to clean English currants, to corn beef, to fry, INDEX. PAGE, 58, 130 358 232 348 135 168 35% 37 228 54 235 330 226 359 366 365 216 392 394 398 142 393 392 398 to fry crumbs, (under Bread Sauce) 231 to fry parsley, to get onion juice, to lard, to make a bouquet of sweet herbs, to make and use a pastry bag, to make paper cases, to make spinach green, to open lobsters, to remove jellies and creams from moulds, to scrape chocolate, to serve, to stew, to use the salamander, to whip cream, Ice cream, Almond Apricot Banana Brown bread Caramel Chocolate Cocoanut Coffee Directions for freezing Fig Lemon 235 235 397 235 395 396 235 124 393 392 399 398 392 393 296 294 294 295 295 294 297 295 2gt 297 293 Ice cream, Continued. Macaroon Orange Peach Pineapple Pistachio Raspberry Strawberry Vanilla Walnut Icing, Chocolate Indian and apple pudding, meal, pudding, Delicate Trish stew, Jelly, Aspic Barberry border, Calf’s foot Cider Cider apple Coffee Crab-apple Currant Grape Lemon Orange Pineapple roll, Strawberry Wine Jenny Lind pudding, Jumbles, Ketchup, Barberry Tomato Kidneys, & la matire a’ hotel, Broiled sauté, Stewed Kisses, Kiss wafers, KitcHen FuRNISHING, Gas and oil stoves, Refrigerators, Stoves and ranges, Utensils, Lady fingers, Lady’s cake, Lake shad, Lamb, Boiled 421 PAGE. 295 293 294 293 296 294 293, 294 292 296 332 263 57 267 140 147 340 234 307 308 340 309 341 309; 340 340 308 308 309 327 309 307 270 329 346 345, 346 38 357 357 397 356 BIL Bir 64 65 65 64 66 326 319 43 35 13° 422 Lamb, Continued. Braised breast of Leg of, @ la francaise, tongue in jelly, tongue, Stewed Larding, Lemon diplomatic pudding, ice cream, jelly, pie, points, sherbet, sponge, Lettuce, salad, Little pigs in blankets, Liver, and bacon, Braised calf’s Broiled Curry of fried in crumbs, sauté, sauté, with piquant sauce, Loaf cake, LosstEr, Breaded Broiled broiled in the shell, Canned croquettes, Curry of cutlets, Devilled, in the shell, Escaloped patties, Potted salad, sauce, soup, Stewed To opena Vol-au-vent of Macaroni, 22 Italienne, Boiled Chartreuse of chicken and in gravy, with cheese, with cream sauce, with tomato sauce, Macaroon ice cream, Mackerel, INDEX. PAGE. 139 138 167 167 397 275 293 258 45, 124 125 128 197 126 128 127 127 35° 211 226 99 126 124 200 246 245 177. 245 246 246 246 295 44, 45 Mackerel, Continued. Potted Maitre d’ hotel butter, sauce, Mangoes, Pickled Marbled veal, Marinades, MARKETING, Beef, As to choosing it, Fore-quarter, Hearts, Hind-quarter, Kidneys, Liver, Porter-house steak, Quality and cost, Rattle-ran, Ribs, Round steak, Rump steak, Sirloin, Sirloin steak, Tenderloin steak, The rump, Tongues, Fish, Bass, Black-fish, or tautog, Blue-fish, Clams, Cod, Eels, Flounders, Haddock, Halibut, Lake shad, Lobster, Mackerel, Mullet, Oysters, Pollock, Salmon, Scollops, Shad, Shrimp, , Small, or pan-fish, Smelts, Sturgeon, Sword-fish, PAGE, 35° 225 226 45, 46 42 45 42 42 42 43 45 44545 44 47 42 42 48 43 46 44 44 44 MARKETING, Continued. Fish, Tautog, Terrapin, Turbot, Weak-fish, White-fish, or lake shad, Lamb, Kidneys, Tongues, Mutton, Chops and cutlets, Fore-quarter, Hind-quarter, Leg, Loin, Prices, Pork, Kidneys, Liver, Sausages, Poultry and Game, Chickens, Ducks, Fowl, Geese, Grouse, or prairie chicken, Partridges, Pigeons, Quail, Squabs, Turkeys, Venison, Woodcock, Veal, Vegetables, Artichokes, Asparagus, Beans, Cauliflower, Celery, Chicory, or endive, Corn, Cucumb Dandeli Endive, Lettuce, Mushrooms, Radishes, Spinach, Sweet herbs, Tomatoes, INDEX. 423 PAGE, 43 46 42 44 43 35 38 38 30 34 33 32 32 32 34 38 37 37 38 39 38 39 40 40 41 40 39 40 41 35 48 53 go 51 50 St 54 53 53 50 54 5I 52 54 49 54 50 PAGE. MARKETING, Continued. Vegetables. When in season, 49 Marking cakes in gold, 333 Mayonnaise dressings, 207, 208 Meal, Indian 57 Oat 57 Rye 57 Meat and fish sauces, 219 and potato salad, 214 Cold, with purée of potato, 377 Escaloped 378 Meats, 130 Boiling, 130 Corned beef, 13 Ham, 130 Lamb, 130 Leg of mutton, 130 Tongues, 131 Broiling, 136 Beef steak, 136 Mutton chops, 136 Roasting, 132 Beef, with Yorkshire pudding 134 Fillet of veal, 134 Ham, 135 in the oven, 132 Rolled rib, 133 Miscellaneous modes, 137 Beef stew, 139 Braised beef, 137 Braised breast of lamb, 139 Fricandeau of veal, 137 Trish stew, 140 Leg of lamb, & la francaise, 138 Scotch roll, 141 Toad in the hole, I4l Meg Merrilies’ soup, go Melon, Sweet 342 Minced veal and eggs, 352 Mince-pie meat, 257 Mock bisque soup, 95 Molasses pound cake, 328 Muffins, Corn 362 English 360 Fried Indian 363 Graham 362 Hominy 365 Raised 362 Rice 365 Rye 364 Mullet 44 424 Mulligatawney soups, Mushrooms, Mutton. See ‘‘Marketing’’ in Index. chops, broiled, cutlets, Leg of, boiled, Ragout of réchauGfe, Nesselrode pudding, Nut cake, Oat meal, Okra, escaloped, with tomatoes, soups, stewed, stewed, with tomatoes, Olives, Beef sauce, Veal OMELETs, Baked Cheese Chicken Corn Fish Ham Jelly Plain Quaker Savory Soufflé & la créme, Soufié a la potle, Onions, Baked soup, Stuffed To get juice of Orange Bavarian cream, cake, diplomatic pudding, ice cream, jelly, marmalade, pie, pudding, sherbet, soufié, sponge, Oranges, Preserved sour Ox tails, 2 la Tartare Haricot of Stewed OYSTERS, INDEX. PAGE. 57) 8 52 N 136 189 130 169 353 299 359 253 gt 252 252 163 223 164 37° 372 371 37% 372 372 371 372 37° 371 372 305 305 249 95 249 235 288 324 275 293 308 339 259 273 304 286 338 168 168 168 47 Oysters, Continued. Chartreuse of Creamed Croquettes, Créustade of Escaloped Fricasseed Fritters, in escalop shells, Little pigs in blankets, on a block of ice, on the half shell, panned in the shell, panned in their own liquor, Patties, Pickled roasted in the shell, roasted, on toast, Salad, Sauces, sauté, Vol-au-vent of Pancakes, Pan-fish, Paper cases, To make Parsley, To fry Parsnip balls, Escaloped fried in butter, fried in molasses, Partridges, Larded Paste, Chopped French, for pies, French, for soups, Puff Pasties of game and poultry, Pastry bag, To make and use a Paté de fois gras, Patties, Chicken Crust Lobster Oyster Veal Peach Bavarian cream, ice cream, méringue pudding, pudding, sponge, Peaches, Brandied Frozen PAGE, 123 120 196 12r 12, 122 120 193 122 120 118 117 11g 119 202 124 TI9g 118 396 153 170 273 Peaches, Continued. Pickled Preserved Pears, Pickled Preserved Pea soup, Green Peas, 3 i Srangaise, when in season, Peppers, Stuffed Philadelphia clam soup, PickLep blueberries, cauliflower, Chopped pickle, cucumbers, mangoes, oysters, INDEX. 425 PAGE. 342 343) 344 peaches, pears and sweet apples, 342 Spiced currants, Spiced plums, Stuffed peppers, Sweet melons, Sweet tomato, tomatoes, Pigs, Chicken Chocolate Cold game Corn How to make Lemon Orange Shepherd’s Squash Sweet potato Pigeons, Broiled in jelly, Potted Pineapple Bavarian cream, ice cream, jelly, Preserved sherbet, sponge, Piquant sauce, Pistachio ice cream, Plum cake, Kneaded pudding, Plums, Preserved Spiced Polish salad, sauce, 343 343 344 342 343 345 255 169 259 m7t 359 257 258 259 377) 378 258 258 40 154 155 154 289 293 309 335 300, 3° 287 229 296 33° 260 337 343 4 222 PAGE. Pollock, 42 Pork, see ‘‘Marketing’’ in Index. Port wine sauce, 230 Potage 2 la reine, 94 Potatoes, 238 Xa mattre d’ hotel, 243 & la Parisienne, 241 & la royale, 240 & |’ Italienne, 240 daked with roast beef, 240 balls, fried in butter 242 Boiled 238 borders, Igt Broiled 242 Creamed 244 croquettes, 198 Duchess 243 Escaloped 244 Fried 240, 241, 245 fritters, 194 Housekeeper’s 243 Lyonnaise 242 Mashed 239 puffs, 239 Purée of 239 Riced 239 salad, 217 soufié, 244 soup, 96 Stewed 243 Sweet 245, when in season, 49 PoTtTING, 347 beef, 347 chickens, 348 fish, 349 ham, 348 lobsters, 350 mackerel, 350 smelts, 350 tongue, 348 veal, 349 Pouttry, 142 to 153 See ‘‘Marketing”’ in Index. Chicken & da matelote, 150 ala reine, ISt ala Tartare, 151i Broiled I5t Roasted 149 stew with dumplings, 152 Duck, Roasted 148 Fowl and pork, 143 426 Pouttry, Continued. Fowl and pork, boiled with macaroni, Goose, Roasted To clean and truss Turkey, Boiled Boiled, with celery, Boned INDEX. PAGE. 143 144 148 142 145 144 145 Roasted, with chestnut stuf- fing and sauce, Pound cake, Molasses Prairie chickens, PRESERVING, Apple ginger, Barberry jelly, blackberries, Brandied peaches, cherries, Cider apple jelly, crab-apples, Crab-apple jelly, currants, Currant jelly, damsons, grapes, Grape jelly, Orange marmalade, peaches, pears, pineapple, pineapple, grated plums, quinces, Quince marmalade, raspberries, Raspberry jam, sour oranges, strawberries, Strawberry jam, whortleberries, Puppincs. Cold. Almond, Apple meringue, Apple porcupine, Bird’s nest, Black, Danish, Frozen, Frdzen cabinet, Jenny Lind, Lemon diplomatic, * 145 328 40 334 339 340 336 337 335 340 336 342 335 340 337 339 340 339 336 336 335 335 337 338 339 335 339 338 335 339 336 269 271 277 275 269 269 “299 272 270 275 Pupovincs, Continued. Cold. Nesselrode, Orange, Orange diplomatic, Peach, Peach méringue, Princess, Quince iced, Royal, Royal diplomatic, Tapioca, Hot. Amber, Amherst, Apple and rice, Apple sougzé, Apple tapioca, Baked apple, Batter and fruit, Cabinet, Chocolate, Chocolate roll, Corn, Custard sougzé, _ Date, Delicate Indian, Down East, Dutch apple, English plum, Eve's, Fig, German puffs, Ground rice, Indian and apple, Rachel, Rice, Yorkshire, Sauces. Apricot, Caramel, Cream, Creamy, Foaming, German, Lemon, Molasses, Quince, Rich wine, Vanilla, Puff paste, Pumpkin soup, PAGE. 299 273) 274 275 273 270 277 276 268 274 269 263 267 266 - 266 259 265 268 Quail, Broiled Larded Queen’s cake, Quenelles, Chicken breaded, stuffed, Veal Quince iced pudding, marmalade, Quinces, Preserved Rabbit, Curry of Roasted Rachel pudding, Radishes, Ragout of mutton, of veal, Railroad cake, Raisins, Ranges and stoves, Raspberry ice cream, jam, sherbet, Raspberries, Frozen Preserved. Red vegetable salad, Refrigerators, Regatta cake, Ribbon cake, Rice, Boiled border, cake, croquettes, muffins, pudding, Richmond maids of honor, Rissoles, Roasting meats, Robert sauce, Rolled rib roast, Royal cream, croquettes, diplomatic pudding, pudding, Rusks, Sponge Rye meal, muffins, Sa.ap DRESSING, Bacon Boiled Cream French INDEX. PAGE. 197) 195» 4 153 153 319 182 184 183 184 276 339 338 156 156 260 54 169 169 325 316 198 133 285 196 274 268 SaLap Dressinc, Continued. made at the table, made with butter, Mayonnaise Aspic Green Red Sardine Sour cream without oil, Saabs. ‘Asparagus, Asparagus and salmon, Beef, Bouquet, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Celery, Chicken, Cucumber, Fish, Hot cabbage, Lettuce, Lobster, Meat and potato, Oyster, Polish, Potato, Red vegetable, Salmon, Sardine, Shad roe, Tomato, Vegetable, Salamander, To use a Sally Lunn, Salmon, croquettes, salad, Vol-au-vent of Sandwiches. Meat and potato Sardine dressing, salad, SAUCES. Meat and fish. Allemande, Anchovy, Bechamel, Beurre noir, Bread, Brown, Butter, 427 PAGE. 207 207 208 208 208 209 209 209 206 215 215 214 214 216 2g 218 215 213 216 213 392 367 42 197 200 352 209 213 4238 Sauces, Continued, Meat and fish. Caper, Celery, Champagne, Chestnut, Cream, Cream Bechamel, Currant jelly, Curry, Egg, Fine herbs. Flemish, Hollandaise, Lobster, Maitre d’ hotel butter, sauce, Mushroom, Brown . White Mustard, Olive, Oyster, Piquant, Polish, Port wine, Robert, Shrimp, Supreme, Tartare, Tomato, Vinaigrette, White, Pudding. Apricot, Caramel, Cream, Creamy, Foaming, German, Lemon, Molasses, Quince, Rich wine, Vanilla, Sausages, Breaded Scollops, — Scotch broth, Scotch roll, Seed cakes, Serving, Hints on Shad, INDEX. PAGE 221, 219, 223 226 226 225 226 224 225 228 279 280 280 281 278 280 37 352 48 89 141 329 399 43 Shad roe croquettes, salad, Shell beans, Shells, Shepherd’s pies, Sherbet, Currant Lemon Orange Pineapple Raspberry Strawberry Shrewsbury cakes, Shrimp, sauce, Silver cake, Smelts, @la Tartare, as a garnish, Potted Snow-flake cake, Snow pancakes, Soda, Soups, Asparagus Black bean Bouillon, Cheese Consommé, Consomme @ la royal, Corn Corn chowder, Cream of barley of celery of rice Duchess Egg balls for Fish chowder, French paste for Fried bread for Giblet Glaze for Green pea Green turtle Grouse Lobster, with milk, ith stock, Meg Merrilies’ Mixed stock, Mock bisque Mulligatawney Okra Qnion PAGE, 197 213 51 387 377, 378 302 i: engage Sours, Continued. Philadelphia clam Potage dla reine, Potato Pumpkin Scotch broth, Spring Spring and Summer Stock for clear Tapioca cream Thick vegetable Tomato White stock, Yacht oyster Sour cream dressing, Spices, Spinach, green, To make Minced Spongy’ ake, for charlotte russe, drops, rusks, Sponges, Lemon Orange Peach Pineapple Strawberry Spring soup, Spring and Summer soup, Squabs, Squash biscuit, pie, Squashes, when in season, Steak, stewed with oysters, Steaks, Broiling Stew, Beef Irish Stewing, Sticks, Stock, for clear soups, Mixed Remarks on White Stoves and ranges, Strawberry Bavarian cream, ice cream, jam, jelly, sherbet, short-cake, INDEX. PAGE. 100 94 96 97 g2 93 97 86 94 99 209 59 49 235 251 325 327 327 322 285 286 286 287 287 g2 93 40 366 258 49 190 16 to 21 136 139 140 398 383 83 83 82 85 64, 65 287 293, 294 339 399 gor 360 Strawberry, Continued. sponge, Strawberries, Frozen Preserved Sturgeon, Sugar, To boil Sunshine cake, Supreme sauce, Surprise souffle, Sweetbreads, Breaded Broiled in paper cases, larded and baked, sauté, To clean Vol-au-vent of Sweet herbs, To make a bouquet of Sweet potatoes, Sweet potato pie, Swiss pudding, Sword-fish, Tapioca cream soup, pudding, Cold Tartare sauce, Tautog, Taylor cake, Tea, Terrapin, Stewed Toad in the hole, Togus bread, Tomato ketchup, salad, sauce, soup, Tomatoes, Broiled Escaloped Fried Pickled Stuffed Sweet To peel Tongue, Boiled Braised Escaloped Fillets of in jelly, 429 PAGE. 287 335 44 394 317 223 305 203 204 204 204 203 204 200 54 235 245 258 267 44 97 269 230 43 39° 46 129 IqI 384 345.346 216 229 94 50 248 248 248 345 247 343 248 38 I3r 165 166 166 166, 167 430 Tongue, Continued. Potted Stewed Tripe, Lyonnaise Turbot, 2 la créme, Turkeys, Turkey, Boiled Boned Galatine of Roasted Utensils, Kitchen Vanilla élairs, ice cream, Veal, and ham, Blanquette of Curry of cutlets, with white sauce, force-meat, Fricandeau of Fricandelles of Galatine of Marbled olives, patties, quenelles, Ragout of Roasted fillet of VEGETABLES, See ‘“Marketing”’ in Index. Asparagus with cream, Baked beans, Cabbage, Minced Caulifiowers, Celery, Corn oysters, pudding, Egg plant, Fried Green peas, & la francaise, Macaroni, 3 Okra, 144) 145 INDEX.. PAGE. VEGETABLES, Continued. 348 Onions, 167 Parsnips, 352 Pickled beats, 42 Potatoes, 114 Rice, Boiled 39 salad, soup, 145 Spinach, 177 Time table for cooking, 145 Tomatoes, 66 | Viennois cakes, 331 | Venison, 292 Roast leg of 35 Saddle of 186 | Vinaigrette sauce, 182 | Vol-au-vent of chicken, 189 of lobster, 233 of oysters, 137 of salmon, 164 of sweetbreads, 179 | Waffles, 349 Indian 164 Raised 201 Rice 184 | Walnut ice cream, 169 | Weak-fish, 134 | Wedding cake, 237 | Welch rare-bits, Wheat, Cracked 250 | White-fish, 254 | White fruit cake, 250 sauces, 251 | Whortleberries, 252 | Wine jelly, 253 | Woodcock, 254 | Yacht oyster soup, 253 | Yeast, 250 bread, 245, 246 | Yorkshire pudding, 252, 253 PAGE. 249 249, 250 254 238 to 245 253 216 86 251 237 247 326 40 157 156 229 199 200 200 200 200 367 368 368 369 296 44 319 358 58 43 319 219, 220 336 307 41 » 99 38 382, 383 134 4a ADDITIONAL RECEIPTS.