pass cg: = = see red cee Bie Se a Ze naa ‘i Nath on Sees PW ary al i if tie im + i yy Cee t : ate aD hon ; i tae PARI Aen ED SATO : PAE ie tet Pa ‘ Dos i ee wih Bera i feat PR Leis Ra he Hi hia Wi Pots a ny i Lor Ok ie ae i A} a ne Dann ih Been Ht Hause Hil rf i eC tha reste Saar eran A 134 il bat i if any i fan ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY New York STATE COLLEGES OF AGRICULTURE AND HomME ECONOMICS AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY Cornell University Library TX 349.C33 AT 3 1924 003 533 043 mann CASSELL’S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS: Containing about Nine Thousand Recipes. CASSELL, PETTER, GALPIN « CO: LONDON, PARIS § NEW YORK. [ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. ] 352509 PREFACE. Tue art of Cookery is every day receiving increased attention: and no wonder. Life is made all the brighter by satisfactory feeding; and he is a dull philo- sopher who despises a good dinner. The pleasures of the table—as has been pointed out by the celebrated Dr. Kitchiner—are enjoyed by us more than a thousand times every year, and whoever thoroughly realises that fact will need neither argument nor eloquence to persuade him to an experimental acquaint- ance with all possible cooking processes and all possible recipes. But the strong point of good cookery is not its gratification of the palate, but its influence on health. This is a matter of far greater importance than is generally thought. It is no exaggeration to say that the explanation of _ many fatal disorders is to be found in nothing but badly-cooked and ill- assorted viands. Our households would enjoy better health, and be better able to withstand sickness when it came, if pains were only taken to have food well ‘chosen and properly made ready. Every housekeeper, then, will give the subject of eating and drinking a prominent placc in her daily round of duties. A desire to aid in the diffusion of knowledge on such an important topic induced the Publishers to project a Work on Cookery which would bé at once the largest and most complete collection of recipes ever produced in this country, Experience and energy were brought to bear on the undertaking, and the result is now before the reader. The practical part of the following work has been preceded by a complete treatise on the “Principles of Cookery.” This has been written by a gentleman in every way entitled to speak with authority, thus making our Dictionary a marked contrast to many publications of a similar kind. “Too many,” says a distinguished chef, “who have presumed to write upon the art and science of Cookery are far from possessing any real or adequate knowledge of what they so recklessly attempt to teach.” By reading these “Principles of Cookery ” the cook will become possessed of the whole alphabet of her art. In the arrangement of the recipes the dictionary form has been chosen as the most convenient. Cross-references have been inserted where they were needed, and it is believed that any article in the work may be found without iv PREFACE. difficulty and at a moment’s notice. Classified lists of recipes are to be met with under such heads as “Biscuits,” “Ices,” “Jams,” “Jellies,” “Puddings,” “ Sauces,” ““ Soups,” &e. The recipes are the tried recipes of good artists, and their intrinsic excellence will certainly recommend them. They have been chosen. with a view to the varied capabilities and requirements of English households, and no branch of Cookery up to the elaborate dishes of high life has been ignored. Not only everyday fare, but fare for extra occasions has been included. Cold meat cookery, the cooking of Australian meat, cookery for invalids, beverages of every kind, and the best methods of carving, have all re- ceived, ample notice. The wholesomeness or unwholesomeness ,of many different kinds of food has been pointed out, and their nutritive value has been stated. Prices have been added in most cases, and the greatest pains has been taken to secure accuracy. In the Appendix have been given short articles on Kitchen Utensils, Seasonable Foods, and Terms used in Cookery. Great pains have been taken to give the work a practical character, and it is hoped that the illustrative woodcuts will add greatly to its intelligibility and interest. 5 The directions have been put in the simplest form and the plainest — language, so that the recipes may be as easily understood in the kitchen as their results are sure to be popular in the dining-room. If the promise of this Preface is good, the performance of the body of the work wi!l be found to be better. To its countless recipes then we leave the reader, parting from him with the words of Horace, “Should you know better precepts than these, candidly tell us; if not follow them, as we do.” CONTENTS. PREFACE PRINCIPLES OF CooKERY 3 Dictionary, A—Z - ‘ APPENDIX :— A.—KirTcHEN UTENSILS B.—SgEasonaB_E Foop C.—Gutossary or TERMS USED IN COOKERY , PAGE i—xcvi 1—1158 1159 1173 1176 THE PRINCIPLES OF COOKING AND TABLE MANAGEMENT, _0000-——. THE WHY AND THE WHEREFORE OF BOILING, GRILLING, AND FRYING. would be a good thing for everybody—for we must all eat—if those who cook our food were in one respect to resemble what are called troublesome children. Who has not at some time or other met with a child who is always asking, “Why?” And, alas! how often do we hear his thirst for knowledge restrained with some remark such as “ Little boys should not ask questions.” This too often means that the one questioned does not know what to say, and is too vain to confess it. Now, if those who cook for us would only turn a little more in- quisitive, and occasionally ask, “Why?” we should have better dinners. Why ought you to put a leg of mutton into boiling water? Why ought you to put meat for soup into cold water? Why does the souffié rise? Cooks, and good ones too, often know facts but not reasons; they consequently are limited to a certain number of recipes which they have learnt by heart, but are quite incapable of either invention or imitation. A good cook, with a good palate, after seeing and tasting a dish, ought to be able to make one, if not exactly like it, yet near enough to pass for it; but I fear the faculty is, to say the least, rare. If we understood more than we do the-principles on which cooking depends, the fact of being able to make one dish, combined with knowing the reasons for the result, would often lead to our being able to make a large variety of similar dishes, which a very slight inventive talent would enable us to vary so much in flavour, that instead of knowing one recipe we should know twenty. It is evident that-in all cooking one of two great principles must constantly be brought into play. One, to keep the flavour mm ; another, to get the flavour owt. Let us for one moment contrast boiling a leg of mutton, and making good mutton broth. It is evident that in the one case, as we eat the mutton, our endeavour should be to keep as much flavour in the meat as possible; in the second place, as what we want is the broth, our endeavour should be to leave as little flavour in the mutton as possible. Now there are many persons who positively proceed to prepare both almost the same way. There is a certain principle, or rather fact, which may be called a chemical fact, and that is, that albumen coagulates.and becomes hard at boiling-point. This very important fact should never be lost sight of in cooking meat, for it should be remembered that meat largely consists of albumen. First, then, the leg of mutton. Place the leg of mutton in boiling water, this will take the water off the boil; let the saucepan remain on the fire till the water boils a—N.E. ii CASSELL’S COOKERY. up again, then remove the saucepan off the fire till the water gets nearly lukewarm, then put the saucepan on the fire again, and let it simmer, not boil, very gently till the leg of mutton is done. The time of course varies with the size, but one about nine pounds should take about two hours and a half. . ona Next let us inquire, Why did we do this? . oo vd The leg of mutton thus placed in boiling water has a rim 2 round the edge hardened by contact with this boiling water, which causes the albumen to coagulate. Were we to leave the leg to actually boil for long, the whole would become hardened, and consequently the mutton would be tough ; but by removing the saucepan off the fire, we get the mutton to cook, surrounded . as it.is by a thin rim of hard meat, not thicker than a thin sixpence, which hard rim Keeps & in the gravy and flavour. Now in making mutton broth we must proceed on exactly contrary principles. Our object is to extract all the flavour we possibly can from the meat and get it into the broth, we therefore cut up the meat into small pieces, and put gion: into cold water, and let them simmer as long as possible without boiling ; by this means all the juices of the meat’ gradually get extracted, and the solid part of the meat that is left, after the broth is well drained off, contains scarcely any nourishment at all. I may here add, however, as some may possibly not know how to make mutton broth, that for invalids, to whom vegetables are forbidden, the proper proportions for the broth are about two pounds of mutton and two ounces of pearl barley and a little salt to one quart of water. For ordinary mutton broth, when it is intended to be used simply as a soup, a couple of turnips, two leeks, a head of celery, one carrot, a little parsley and thyme, should be put in with the meat to simmer; when all this is strained off; some pearl barley may be: added that: has been already partly boiled, and also a fresh‘turnip cut up into small square-pieces ; these must be boiled till they are quite tender, and it will also be found best to pick out a few of the best pieces of the mutton before putting it in the water, in order to serve up in the soup. This same principle of which I have been speaking, namely, keeping in the flavour, applies to a large variety of dishes. For instance, suppose we want to have that good old-fashioned English dish, rumpsteak and oyster-sauce, how rarely is it that you get the latter fit to éat! Too often oyster-sauce is simply thick melted butter, with a few oysters in it that feel like leather, they are so-hard. ‘Now oysters are a great delicacy, and require great care in cooking ; I will describe as briefly'as possible how to’make oyster-sauce, and at the same time explain the reasons for what:we do. In the first place, if an oyster is. boiled it becomes quite hard and uneatable ;: secondly, an oyster if put into hot liquid very quickly loses all its flavour:. Suppose then we have a dozen large oysters. First of all have. them: opened ‘so that every drop of the liquor is saved. : Take off the beards, and place the oysters into a small separate basin, taking care, of course, that. no little pieces of shell are’ left adhering to them. Next take half a pint of milk, and add to it the oyster liquor and beards, and put this on the fire to simmer gently. Here we see that, as we do: not use the beards, our object must be to get what little flavour we can out of them: into the sauce. Next strain off this, and thicken it with-a little butter and flour previously mixed together. This is done by adding the butter and flour little by: little, and stirring the sauce over the fire while it gently boils. Assoon as the sauce has by this means become about: as thick as cream, melt-in about an ounce and a, half more butter, and stir gently. Should the sauce appear to run oily, it shows: you have too much butter, and by: suddenly checking the heat, and keeping on stirring, the sauce .will become all right again—a little piece of ice is the best, or = PRINCIPLES—OYSTER SAUCE—STEAKS—OMELETS, i tablé-spoonful of cold milk ‘will do. ‘Now adda little’ pepper ‘and a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce. It is wonderful how anchovy sauce brings out the flavour of oysters. T would advise cooks to taste the sauce which is flavoured only with the oyster liquor and beards, before adding the anchovy sauce, and aftér it has been added. The change i in ‘lig flavour is so wonddefal ‘that they will have a ‘good practical lesson: of the importance of little things for flavouring purposes. The next point is the oysters, which we left in a little basin: First! have ready the’ sauce tureen, empty, but thoroughly hot; Have also ready on’ the’ fire a large saucepan or stewpan with boiling water. Next take a small strainer in the right hand, and hold it in the boiling water till the water boils with the metal part of the strainer in it. Lift the strainer just above the boiling water, and pour the oysters out of the little basin into it. Let the oysters be in contact with the boiling water. hot more than two or three seconds, let the water strain off them, and then throw them into the hot tureen. Pour the sauce on to them, and the oyster sauce is ready. _ Nowa moment’s consideration will show that we have treated ‘the oysters just. on the same principle that we did the leg of mutton, viz., we have surrounded each oyster with a very thin film that keeps in the flavour. Had we allowed the oysters. to have remained in the boiling water for two or thrée minutes instead of two or three seconds, we should have made them as tough as leather ; had we not put them in at all, they would have lost much’ of their flavour as soon as they - were put into the sauce, besides having a somewhat flabby taste. By doing what I have ‘said, the hardening process went on just long enough ‘to surround each oyster with a coating not thicker perhaps than a piece of gold- beater’s skin, ‘but. then, when the oyster arrived ‘at its destination, the mouth, the moment this coating was broken, the whole of the flavour could be tasted. : Why does a well-cooked chop or steak look black outside and red i in; and why does it require a clear bright fire 1” Because this is ‘the only way, in which it can be cdoked to keep in the flavour. Thé fierceness of the fire surrounds the chop or steak, as the case may be, with a hard coating almost directly the meat is placed on the gridiron. When the steak comes up and i is cut, you can then see the red. gravy run out, and not before. Many a a chop and steak is spoilt’ wby. turning it with a fork, as of course it lets out the gravy, which runs into the fire. ee ‘I will now turn’ to quite another subject, viz., omelets. ‘The’ principle of cook- ing here to be considered is how to make things light. Now how often do. you get. an omelet in a private house fit to eat ? Never—at least, that is my ‘experience. And‘ yet an ‘omelet is really a very ‘easy thing to make, "The secret of, a light omelet is to froth the eggs. But I will go through the recipe ab initio. Suppose ‘iret “the omelet to be a savoury one. First take a new frying: “pan, or one that has only cooked omelets before—it is no use trying | to make an omelet ina frying- -pan that ‘has been used for all sorts of purposes. Take three eggs, and: break them ‘one by one into 4 cup, to see if they are good, and’ put ‘them'in a basin. Add apiece of onion, chopped finely, as big as the top of the ‘first finger down to the nail, and about half a ‘tea-spoonful of equally finely chopped parsley, about a salt- spoonful of salt, and half a one of j pepper. ‘Add two table-spoonfuls of milk. ~ ‘ Now place i: in the small new frying-pan—which must first be cleaned with boiling’ soda’ and water, a8, new tin is sometimes ‘poisonous—two ounces of fresh butter. Place the frying-pan. ‘on the: fire, to’ melt the butter till it froths. Next, with a foto wooden’ fork i is best—beat' up the eggs with the milk, c hopped oe and parsley, and pepper ‘and salt; till it’ is quite frothy. ‘ Keep on’ beating till the last iv CASSELL’S COOKERY. moment, and then pour it quickly into the butter, which, as I have said, must be frothing in the frying-pan. Take a large spoon and stir it all up very quickly, scraping the bottom of the frying-pan all the time, to prevent the omelet from sticking and burning. As soon as it begins to set, take the frying-pan a little from the fire, and work the omelet with a spoon into a half-moon shape. When it is nearly set, take the frying-pan off the fire, and: hold it in front of the fire, resting the edge of the pan on the bottom bar, and slanting the pan as much as possible ; but, of course, care must be taken not to let the omelet slip right into the fire. Hold the frying-pan like this for a couple of minutes or so. This causes the omelet to rise, and it thereby becomes lighter. In large French kitchens, where there is no open fire, they hold a red-hot salamander over the omelet, which has the same effect. A red-hot shovel does very well if you have a shut-up range. A sweet omelet is made in exactly the same manner, only of course there is no pepper, onion, or parsley, and only a tiny pinch of salt. Add, however, instead, a tea-spoonful of very finely powdered sugar, and half a tea-spoonful of essence of vanille. This last is an immense improvement. "When an “omelette au confiture” is required, the omelet must be kept in the frying-pan round, a spoonful of the jam placed on the one half, and then the other half lifted over on to it with a slice, or something broad, so as not to break it. An omelet must be served directly it is cooked; so if you want a good one, always take care not to begin to prepare it until just before it is required to be eaten, as it only takes two or three minutes to make. No great harm is done even if you have to wait for it. As I said before, the secret of a light omelet is frothing the eggs. Why? Because by so doing you mix the omelet up with an infinite number of tiny air-bubbles. Now we all know that heat expands everything, air included. These little bubbles, therefore—some, perhaps, the size of a pin’s point—become under the action of heat the size, possibly, of a pin's head ; and as long as the omelet remains hot it is light —puffed out, in fact, by air- bibles expanded by heat. Tf you let the omelet get partially cold, it in consequence gets heavy. This point is, however, more strongly exemplified in the case of soufflés. A cheese soufilé is a very nice thing to finish dinner with, and if you know how to make one, isa capital extra dish in case some one comes in to dinner quite unexpectedly. I will try and tell you how to make it, and also, as far.as I can, explain why. I will describe how to make as small a one as possible, as it is easy to increase the size, and experiments are always most economical on a small scale. Takearound tin about four inches in diameter, and quite three deep. Have a piece of ornamented white paper ready to pop round the tin quickly. Next take two table-spoonfuls of finely-grated cheese—of course a dry cheese grates the best—and place it in a basin with a quarter of a pint (half,a tumbler) of milk, about half a salt-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of that quantity of pepper. Next break a couple of eggs, keeping the whites separate from the yolks in a small basin. . Mix up the yolks with the milk, cheese, &c., thoroughly. Now take these two whites, and whip them up into a stiff froth, and then mix in quickly the milk, &c. Butter the inside of the tin, and put it in the oven till it is very hot. Pour, the mixture into the tin quickly, and place it in the oven. The oven must be of moderate heat, otherwise the souffié gets burnt outside and remains pappy in the middle. The average time of baking is about twenty- five minutes to half-an-hour. The soufilé, which aehee placed in the tin did not half fill it, will rise up a couple of inches above the tin. Everything, however, PRINCIPLES—FRYING. - depends upon its being served quickly. Probably the soufilé, if it is two inches above the edge of the tin when it leaves the oven, will sink nearly level with the top before it reaches the table. This cannot be helped, but everything that saves time must be thought of beforehand. For instance, some people delay to pin a dinner- napkin round the tin. Of course the best plan is to have a silver-plated soufiié-case, and then there is no occasion for any delay. These, however, are rare, Have a piece of clean white ornamented paper with a frill ready, and let there ve plenty of room. Now the soufilé very often bulges out at the top, and there is no room to put the paper over the tin. Don’t let this, however, put you out. Drop the tin into the round paper, which should not be higher than the edge of the tin ; but whatever you do, or however you do it, be quick ; have a hot cover ready to pop on, and run with it to the dinner-table. The next point to consider is, Why did the soufflé rise? Because of the uir- bubbles. It is easy to whisk the whites of eggs into a foam, but not the yolks. By separating the whites, therefore, and beating them up separately, we imcreased our number of air-bubbles to an enormous extent. These bubbles expand with the heat, hence the lightness of the soufflé. On the other hand, as the soufflé cools, the bubbles: contract, the soufflé goes down, and a cold souffié would be as heavy as a hot one is light. oo 8 Now the principle is the thing to grasp. For instance, in making a cake, you want, of course, to make it light ; therefore remember the soufilé—i.e., beat the whites up separate from the yolks. This will have the effect of considerably lightening the cake, though, of course, as the process of baking a large cake is slower than that of baking a soufilé, the cake would not rise in anything like the same proportion. Another important point on which we ought to examine into the principles of cooking, is that of frying. There are probably few dishes that test the cook’s capabilities, more important than that of frying. Contrast for one moment the discoloured dish, too often met with in private houses, in which, say, a “little bit of fish” is sent up, and presents what may be called a parti-coloured appearance. Some part is burned black as a cinder ; another part looks the colour of underdone pie-crust. Again, other parts may present the appearance of having those bald patches, as if the cook had accidentally spilled some boiling water on a cat’s back. J say contrast this with the beautifully rich, golden-coloured dish that will make its appearance at the table where the master-mind of one like Francatelli has presided, or with:a dish that one would meet with in a Parisian caft—the bright silver dish contrasting temptingly with the golden-coloured food and the crisp, dark-green parsley piled in the centre. What now is the difticulty ? To keep to our subject, viz, the principles of cooking, we will briefly state that the generality of cooks find their difficulty to exist as follows :—They cannot obtain a nice colour without over-cooking their fish. The ordinary way in which cooks will prepare a fried sole (and we presume they will know something of their art) is, having dried the fish and floured it, they dip it in egg well beaten up, covering it over with some fine dried bread-crumbs, and having given it a gentle tap all round, somewhat resembling a young mother getting her first baby to sleep, they place the fish in the frying-pan, in which a dab of butter or dripping has been placed. One side is cooked before the other is commenced, part of the fried egg and bread-crumb peels off in turning, and the result, both in appear- ance and flavour, is most unappetising. . Having now described how not to do it, let me proceed to explain how to do it. First, the colour. Order in from your baker’s a small bag of nice rich, golden, brown: vi CASSELL's COOKERY. bread-raspings.. You need not fear the expense, as your baker will probably, supply you with them for nothing. Have this always ready i in a.small flour-dredger on the kitchen. mantelpiece. Having dried your fish thoroughly, floured it, and egged and bread-crumbed it with small, fine, dry bread-crumbs, take this dredger containing. the golden-brown bread-raspings, and before gently patting your, fish, cover it over lightly with a brown film of fine raspings, and, lo and behold! your fish, before even it reaches the frying-pan, has obtained the colour you desire. All you have now to do is to concentrate your mind 1n cooking the fish, so as to hit upon that happy medium between its being dried up so that it is. tough and unpalatable on the one hand, and an appearance of redness and stickiness along the back-bone, which are sure and certain signs that the fish is not sufficiently well cooked, on the other. To attempt to convey an idea with regard to the time that a fish takes to cook would be necessarily impossible. Of course this entirely depends upon the thickness of the fish. Nor would I confine my directions to the cooking of fish solely., A sweet- bread is an exceedingly nice dish when properly fried and sent; to. table, presenting an ornamental; appearance. . I would, however, remind you that in all cases where athe substance to be fried. is beyond a certain. thickness, it must ‘previously be what cooks call parboiled. I would also impress upon you the importance of. erring on the side of under-cooking rather than on over-cooking. Suppose, for instance, - you have to fry a sole of somewhat unusual thickness. _ First take care that the fat in which you fey it is amply sufficient to cover the fish. Suppose now, you leaye this fish in boiling fat for the minimum of time you think will be requisite to.cook it. It is easy to remove. the fish from the boiling fat carefully with a slice, and with 2 small knife. cut the meat. away from the back-bone in that part of the fish which is thickest.. Should you-find the meat adhere to the bone, and at the same’ time present.a red, appearance, you will know that the fish is not sufficiently cooked, In this case all you have to do is, to place the fish back again for a few minutes longer i in the boiling fat. + Had, however, you waited for the maximum time, and: found it) over- cooked, I know ofjno, method by which you could undo the harm you have done. One hint .as to mending what we may term patches. . In cutting. the fish. you -will probably displace a small portion of the outside, and thereby.make one of those extremely disagreeable-looking places which we before likened to a scalded cat’s back. If you have by you in readiness the dredger containing the bread-raspings, one'sprinkle will hide the patch.. Cooks: with a very slight, effort of une might often ‘cover over these necessary little borings of discovery. ‘I would, in passing, remind cooks that the secret of aan frying to a great ‘extent. depends upon the.fat. being boiling: You cannot fry properly over.a slow ‘fire... Now ;when you have placed a good-sized . frying-pan upon. the fire, full of anol lard,;it isnot always easy to know when this fat. is:-really boiling and when it is not, forthe simple reason that boiling. fat. will not bubble, up like boiling -water.. To know, therefore, if the fat be boiling, dip your finger into cold water, and Jet: one drop fall .into..the middle of the fat. .Of course, the cold water, having greater. specific gravity than the fat, would instantly: sink, and if the ‘bottom of: the frying-pan be. sufficiently heated, this drop of: water will cause a -hissing sound, from its. instantaneous conversion. into steam, resembling. that of plunging. a: red-hot.poker into: water. I would; however, warn young . beginners against throwing in, in their hurry, too much water at-a time,,as the sudden con- version into, steam of the water thus thrown in will very:probably cause the fat to piash, and. a few drops of really boiling fat upon, the hands and. arms will be found PRINCIPLES—-ECONOMY, vil to be anything but agreeable. We must not, however, lose sight of the very soul of cookery, namely, economy ; and, perhaps already, some:.young ‘housekeeper may have exclaimed, “Ah! .it is all very well; but we cannot afford to waste all this fat in just cooking one or two fish.” Wait a moment, however. Are you aware that the fat that would cook fish once will cook it twenty, thirty, even fifty times? Are you aware that if, after the fish is cooked, you pour the fat carefully into’ a basin containing boiling water, and stir it up and let it-settle, the loose bread-crumbs, and the bad part of the fish, &c., will sink to the bottom of the water, and the fat present a clean and wholesome appearance next morning when it has got cold? Let this fat, therefore, be carefully removed in a thick cake from the top of the basin into which it has been poured. Scrape off carefully the rough pieces adjoining the water, and place the fat by in a small basin by itself, and label it “for frying fish.” I have no hesitation -in saying that this fat will: keep perfectly good in winter-time for two or ‘three months. It is far cheaper in the long run to-use two pounds :of fat and cook things properly, and make the same fat do fifty times, than to use two ounces, cook the fish badly, and let the remains of the fat help to swell that bugbear of young house- keepers, the “cook's grease-pot.” In conclusion, with regard to frying, be careful'in removing the fish from ‘the fat, that, before you place it on a dish, you let it rest a few minutes on a hot cloth, which will absorb the grease. At the same time, be equally careful that you do not place it in an oven to keep it warm. For fried fish to taste properly, but a very few minutes should elapse between the frying-pan and the dinner-table. A snow-white cloth at the bottom of the dish, some sprigs of bright green parsley placed alternately with a few slices‘of lemon, will give the dish a better appearance. ~ : I have, however, mentioned that I believe economy to be the soul of cookery. There is, perhaps, no word in the English language so little understood as this word economy. Just as political economists are too often considered by the vulgar to be men of hard hearts, so, too, in the art of cookery is economy often associated with meanness and stinginess. “I have no hesitation in saying it will be invariably found that the better the cook, the more economy will be practised. There is more waste in the cottage than in the palace, for the simple reason that the cottage cook is entirely ignorant of an art which the chef has brought to' perfection. What your so-called good plain cooks throw away, an ingenious French artiste will make into entrées. The French are a nation of cooks, and they:cannot afford to dine without soup. Probably the contents of the dust-bins of England would more than fill the soup-tureens of France. I will give a very simple instance of what I term economy in the ordinary living of middle-class families. We all know that grand old- fashioned piéce de résistance, the British sirloin. "Who has not seen it in its last stages—the under-cut gone; the upper part dug out, on which some greedy individual has evidently grasped after the under-done piece in the middle, but who, at the same time, has entirely ignored the end. The kitchen more than follows suit to the dining-room, and what is despised above is scorned below, and perhaps the real destination of the end of the sirloin, which’ the young, housekeeper fondly imagines has done for the servants’ supper, has .in. reality supplied the kennel. Suppose, now, this end had been cut off before the joint, was roasted, and placed in a little salt water, a nice, wholesome, and agreeable hot dinner would have been obtainable with the assistance of some boiled greens and.potatoes. A little forethought in these matters constitutes real économy. Scraps of meat, fag ends of pieces of bacon, too often wasted, will, with a little judicious management, make a nice dish of rissoles, Vili CASSELL’S COOKERY. I have called attention above to the principles on which joints should be boiled, and I will now say a few words on an equally important subject, namely, the principle on which joints should be roasted. Just as'in the former case, so in the latter, the one point to be borne in mind is to keep in the flavour. -Now in roasting a joint, perhaps some of you may think that to lose the fiavour is impos. sible. Such, however, is not the case. Just as in turning a steak on the gridiron you let out the gravy if you stick a fork in it, so in roasting a leg of mutton do you, to a certain, though not equally great, extent, let out the gravy if you run a hook right into the meut itself. There are ingenious machines made—which, however, are chiefly intended for haunches, particularly haunches of venison—by which the whole joint is surrounded by thin metal rods expressly intended to obviate the necessity of sticking anything into the meat. These cradles, however, are very rarely met with. Some little ingenuity will be sufficient, however, for the purpose in point. All practical cooks know the difficulty of hanging a leg of mutton or a haunch on the spit. After an hour or so the joint, under the influence of the heat, is apt to give, and the thin bone adjoining the shank breaks away. Now by placing a small piece of wood underneath the bottom of the joint, and fastening a piece of copper wire to either end of the wood, and bringing it up to the top or knuckle end, the joint is supported in a kind of cradle. The copper wire, however, is very apt to slip, but by tying two pieces, of string round the centre of the joint, this difficulty will be overcome. Again, in basting a joint, that part requires most basting which is least covered with fat. Should, therefore, you have a haunch in which a part of what we may term the breast had the appearance when raw of being somewhat lean, then slices of fat placed over it, and tied on to it, not skewered in, or a few sheets of well-oiled foolscap paper, will have the effect of checking the heat during the earlier period of roasting, and consequently will prevent the join from having the outside dried up, a fault too often met with. When the joint is very large, as, for instance, a haunch of venison, which may weigh perhaps twenty- five pounds, and consequently require five or six hours to roast, so important is it considered by good cooks to check the action of the heat in the early period of the roasting, that they cover over the haunch with a flour-and-water paste, by which means the whole joint gets thoroughly warmed through, and the outside is not burned, while the portion adjoining the bone is probably nearly raw. , Of course, this paste must be removed an hour or half an hour before sending. to table. The outside must then be browned, and at the finish frothed with a little butter and flour. . There can be no doubt that the most economical institution in any kitchen is the stock-pot ; and it is in this respect that our French neighbours show their enormous superiority over ourselves. It is obvious that the larger the kitchen, and the greater the number of the persons to be supplied with food, the greater will be the number of odds and ends that find their way back from the dining-room. In private houses it will be too often found that huge plates of what are ingeniously termed “broken victuals” are given to the dog, the greater portion of which, if placed in the stock-pot, would have been converted into most excellent soup. Now, it is unquestionably not agreeable to the English taste to use for culinary purposes bones that have been left upon plates. The economy of boning a joint—for instance, a loint of mutton—before cooking it, is very considerable, as the bones, which in the one case would have heen left only half scraped upon the plates, are in the other converted into excellent soup. : PRINCIPLES—PRACTICAL APPLICATION, ix With regard to boiling and roasting meat, we have already noticed that the great principle is to keep in the flavour by causing the whole joint or piece of ni€at to be surrounded by a thin rim, which rim has been rendered hard by the albumen cor- tained in the meat coagulating under the action of heat. : Now, this substance albumen is so important in all cooking operations, that we think it desirable to explain more fully its nature and its properties. One of the purest, and at the same time easiest, forms in which albumen is seen is the white part of an egg. We all know how liquid the white part of a new-laid egg is before it is boiled, but how solid it becomes under the action of heat; for instance, compare a fresh egg just broken into a cup and a hard-boiled egg, and then remember that the liquid transparent part of one is albumen before it has suffered from the action of heat, and that the solid opaque ‘part of the other is albumen that has been, so to speak, changed by the heat into apparently a different substance. Meat contains in its juices a considerable amount of albumen; when, therefore, meat is placed in boiling water, or exposed to considerable heat, as in roasting, the same change takes place in the albumen in the meat as in the egg. It will be at once evident how the coagulation of the albumen assists in stopping up all the little pores in the meat through which the flavour and gravy would have escaped. In fact, we may fairly compare a well-cooked joint to an ordinary well-boiled egg. It is generally known that an egg requires about three minutes to three minutes and a half to boil. When it is cracked, if done properly, the inside will be liquid, but surrounded by a coagulated film of albumen. This is just the same with a properly boiled leg of mutton; the outside thin rim is hard, but the inside tender. Just as in the case of the egg, had it been allowed to boil for twenty minutes instead of three, the whole would have become solid, the whole egg consisting chiefly of albumen ; so, too, with the leg of mutton, if it had been exposed to a boiling tem- perature the whole time, the albumen in the whole of the joint would not merely have coagulated but would have hardened, thereby rendering the joint tough. As we have before pointed out, when once the principles of cooking are under- stood, one recipe will often lead to another. Cooking is an art—a high art—and cannot be learnt in a day, nor can it be learnt by simply reading a book on the subject. The study of cookery must be combined with practice. Now there is perhaps no part of this practice so important as the knowledge of varying recipes as occasion may require. It will be evident that no work on cooking, however large or however good, can adapt its recipes to meet the requirements of every family in quantity as well as quality. We have endeavoured, therefore, when it is possible, to give in our present work different methods of preparing the various dishes, &c. ; but, of course, it would be impossible to give recipes, one adapted to a family of two, another for one of six, and another of twelve persons. ‘ We will illustrate what we mean by referring to an excellent recipe for preparing béchamel sauce on page 48. We have here recommended the cook to boil down an old fowl, three pounds of knuckle of veal, and three pounds of very lean ham. This is, of course, for the preparation of a large quantity. Now, we will suppose the case of a family consisting of but two persons, and say two servants—a by no means uncommon occurrence. Of course, to purchase such quantities for two would be extravagant to a degree; however, are we, say our newly-married couple, to be debarred from the occasional taste of sauce béchamel? By no means. If the cook is in possession of some little edueation and common sense, she would have no difli- culty whatever in grasping the principle of the recipe to which we have referred on x CASSELL’S COOKERY. page 48. We will suppose the house to possess such very ordinary dishes as the remains"of a.cold fowl and a, piece of boiled bacon. Now, suppose the cook to read the recipe carefully, and see in about what propor- tions the different ingredients should be mixed. The carcase of the fowl is cut up and placed in a saucepan, Puli one or two of the bacon bones, which, being lean, form the best substitute for the lean ham. A little piece of veal—say a quarter, of a pound, or indeed a spoonful, of gelatine would do—must.be added. Add.to these.a slice of carrot, or even the whole of a small one, a good slice of onion, a tiny piece. of mace, one or two peppercorns, and add salt to taste. Let all these simmer gently. for a couple of hours or so, and then strain it off, water having been added in a due proportion. Now, this stock would, of course, make excellent bechamel sauce, for the, simple reason that every ingredient in the recipe has been used, the difference between the lean bacon bones and the lean ham being too trifling to make any material change in the favour. If this broth be well strained and well skimmed, and every particle of grease removed, and then be simmered down to about three-quarters of a tumbler in quantity, it has, of course, just like the other broth, only to be.mixed with an equal quantity of good boiling cream, and slightly thickened. with a little arrowroot, to be equal in flavour and excellence to any bechamel sauce served up in a first-class large hotel. In many Handents of the recipes we have given, and shall give, it will. be the duty of the cook, in order to render such recipes practical, or, in other. words, to make the recipe fit in to. the exceptional circumstances of the family or place, to make such little alterations as we have described. Of course, in some instances, the quantities must be increased, such.as in the case. of large schools, and in others decreased. One of the first. principles of cookery is, as we have. already stated, economy ; and.we will broadly define economy as the art of extracting the. greatest, amount. of nourishment out of the various materials used, and not.simply buying cheap things out of which to. make dishes.. For instance, poor persons. will buy. peas to make soup ;:and having ‘boiled them as long as possible in some water, with a piece of bacon, will strain it,off, and throw away the peas, thereby losing half. the nourish- ment. A good cook would, of course, rub all the peas through a tammy, thereby rendering. the soup twice as nourishing and twice as nice. This is an instance of want of economy, which we have said.is more common in the cottage than the palace. ‘STUDYIN G APPEARANCES. In. addition: to the first and primary principle of cooking, i.e., of supplying the body with nourishment, there are two other, important peaaplen to be constantly borne in mind—one is to please the palate, the other. to please the eye. We have called them two principles, but in reality they are one, for the reason that the palate is: pleased ‘by means of the eye. There are some good old sayings pregnant wit! meaning, such as, “It. makes one hungry to look: at. it,” or “It makes, one’s mouth water.” Have you ever observed a very hungry animal tied up, or in a cage, just before it is fed, when a fine and to him tempting. piece of juicy. meat is brought in view? Making the mouth water.is no figure of. speech, but a. aaa that can be witnessed any day at the Zoological Gardens. I believe that in teaching young cooks one cannot begin toon soon ta: impress ipa them the importance of appearances. ce For instance, in making a mayonnaise salad, it is. aoe ‘as easy to make an elegant ‘dish’ as'a plain one. -Why not therefore do so. on every occasion? The PRINCIPLES—-APPEARANCES. ' ot lettuce, dc., inside,.the sauce made as thick almost as butter, and spread over the salad. A little lobster coral or fine-chopped green parsley, sprinkled. with a few bright green capers on the white sauce. A few little strips of red beetroot added, and, if the salad be a chicken one, a few slices of white chicken, stamped i in the shape of a cock’s comb, placed alternately with some similar shaped pieces of red tongue, placed round the base ; some filleted anchovies .and stoned olives will. be found an improvement. What a difference to all the ingredients being Bes together in a dish anyhow without regard to appearances. I will take another:instance. In London, at'times, in cheap eating Lonbn’ will be seen a window with perhaps fifty or a hundred cold roast fowls all heaped up together, going cheap. Does it make your mouth water even if you are hungry. No. Suppose, however, we were to take one of these fowls, and put it on a nice - bright silver dish, and ornament it with some green double parsley, and a few. thin slices of cut lemon— the dish must be placed on a cloth as white as snow—what a difference! Again, look at a sirloin of beef that has got cold in the dish in which it was originally: cooked. The gravy has settled,.and the whole joint is studded with wafers of fat ; theedge of the dish, too, is greasy.. Suppose some stupid. servant were to bring up the joint:just as itis. It is perfectly wholesome, but would it look tempting? On the other. hand, look at a cold sirloin on the sideboard, in a large clean dish, with plenty of curly white horse-radish and parsley. There are to my mind few dishes more tempting; and yet, bear in mind, the difference between the two is.simply that of appearance. ne ae Take, again, butter, especially i in summer time; the same butter on a smeary plate looking like pomatum, or. in a bright cut-glass dish done up into neat little pats, with here and there a tiny piece of parsley to. set it off. . i I have known cooks exclaim—‘ Oh, neyer mind what it ‘goles like as aug as it , tastes all right.” This is, however, a great mistake. Now, in boiling fish, not only should the cook endeavour to boil it properly, ¢.¢., not too much or too, little, | but also endeavour to make the fish white. How, you tay ask, can this, be done? By bearing in mind that the colouring matter in. fish, is affected and partially dissolved. by acids, Suppose you have a large turbot... Before putting it into, the fish-kettle, all you have to do is to rub the fat, white side of the turbot with a slice of lemon, the effect of this being to render the fish far whiter when itis taken. gut of, the water than it otherwise would be. Here, again, when you know the principle, it is a guide . to boiling all large fish. Of course, too, in lifting the fish out of the water, the, scum floating on the top of the water should in every case be first removed, as it would otherwise settle on the fish, and destroy, not only the appearance, but even the flavour. In boiling all large, white fish, regard should be had to appearances ; no fish should be sent up.quite plain. If the cook would, always have in his or her possession a small quantity of lobster. coral, a little could be easily sprinkled over. the surface of the fish... It is wonderful how a fish is improved in appearance by such a simple means as this, If, in addition, some fresh parsley, cut lemon, and a, few good-sized prawns are used by way of ornament, the fish that, would otherwise present, quite - an ordinary appearance is made into a really elegant dish. This principle of.“ making things look white” will extend beyond , the region of fish. For instance, good cooks. will put a, few drops of vinegar, into. the’ -water in which they poach eggs. Why! For ‘the simple reason that, ‘the, eggs 7 will, look whiter ; the colouring matter mixed in with the eggs is more soluble i in boiling water dightly acid than, in ordinary water, and, consequently, , poached oges treated this xii CASSELL’S COOKERY. way will come to table presenting that snowy appearance that renders them far more appetising—not that they taste better, but that the palate is affected through the eye. COOKING A STEAK. As we have already adverted to those good old sayings current upon the subject of the principles of cookery, we would refer to that perhaps most common one of all, viz., “The test of a good cook is to cook a steak and boil a potato.” Let us dwell for a few moments on the important dish in all English households—* a steak,” or a chop. I candidly confess that I think a chop or steak one of the very best tests of a good cook, for the simple reason that the proper cooking of either calls forth certain qualities on the cook’s part, which nothing but experience can give. These qualities may be briefly summed up in the words—forethought, patience, and common sense. In the first place, the state of the fire is of paramount importance ; and probably the chief cause of chops and steaks being, as a rule, inferior when cooked in private houses to those prepared in public establishments is the - difficulty of maintaining a clear fire in the former. To attempt to cook a chop over a fire on which coals have been recently placed is simply an act of insanity. Here, therefore, comes in the quality of forethought, to which we have alluded. By keeping the fire bright, and supplying it with judicious ashes or pieces of what we may term home-made coke, much may be done to rival “the grill” of large establishments. We will, therefore, suppose a moderately bright fire, free from gassy exhalations, and also suppose the cook to be above the barbarism of even thinking of a frying-pan as an easier, and, with a view to the “grease-pot,” a more profitable piece of machinery than the gridiron. First, place the gridiron on the fire for a minute or so, and then take it off and smell it. It may seem to some absurd to mention such trifling matters of detajl, but then cooking—good cooking—consists in constantly observing details. As we said, smell it, for the simple reason of finding out if it has been properly cleaned. Suppose, for instance, it has cooked a bloater on the last occasion ; the heat will bring out the possible omission of cleanliness on the part of the person whose duty it was to see the gridiron put by in its proper state. Having, therefore, warmed it, rub it carefully with a piece of paper ; and let those who doubt the advice thus given go down themselves to their kitchens and try their own gridiron, and observe the colour of he paper after this very necessary operation. If the gridiron has been used on the last occasion for fish, it will be found a good plan@ after wiping it with paper, to finish with rubbing the bars with a small slice of onion. By this means a flavour highly objectionable is destroyed, and one that, even if detected, would do no harm is given. Suppose, therefore, the gridiron clean, and the chop or steak placed on it. No advice with regard to time is here possible. The cook has to depend entirely on his judgment. The state of the fire, the size and especially the thickness of the meat, and also the time of year. A chop will require longer cooking in winter than in summer; and for this reason it is always advisable to have chops or steaks placed in the kitchen in winter for some hour or two previous to their being cooked. By this means, that nasty-looking blue appearance in the middle may often be avoided. Next, cook the chop or steak quickly in the early period ; the reason of this—-to -keep to our subject, the principles of cookery—is in order that we may surround it PRINCIPLES—CHOPS AND STEAKS, xii with that hard rim that keeps in the flavour. Next, do not be too much afraid of what cooks call ‘a flare.” In fact, err, if possible, on the side of encouraging a flare. Sometimes it will be found advisable, when you think the cooking process is not going on sufficiently quick, to drop a little piece of fat or dripping into the ‘fire to make a blaze. The end desired is red inside, black out. The difficulty is to know when the chop or steak is done; and the only proper method to find this out is to pinch the meat. Uncooked meat is flabby, over-cooked meat hard. A well- cooked chop hits on the happy medium between these two alternatives. “The proper thing with which you should turn or test a chop or steak is a pair of ' cooking tongs made specially for the purpose. Whatever you do, however, do not cut it to look at it, for in this case you sacrifice all the first principles of cookery, and commit that most deadly sin for a cook, viz., you let out the gravy. Suppose, therefore, you pinch the steak,with the tongs, or press it with the side of a fork on the gridiron, and it feels spongy ; this means that the inside is not simply red but blue, and that, therefore, it requires a little longer cooking. Suppose, however, it feels firm, not hard ; this means it is done, and the outside appearance of being black, which, for fear of being misunderstood, we will call being well browned, like the outside of a well-roasted sirloin of beef, should for this very reason have been acquired early in the cooking, as any further attempt to obtain colour would be attended with the risk of over-cooking and, consequently, drying up the meat. There are many things best cooked on the gridiron besides chops and steaks ; for instance, kidneys, mushrooms, tomatoes, bloaters, éc.; but we would here mention one case of the use of the gridiron, not perhaps generally known, and that is of cooking substances wrapped up in oiled paper ; for instance, a slice of salmon grilled. It is, of course, at once apparent that a clear fire is here indispensable. Should any blaze exist, the paper would catch fire, and there would be an end of the attempt. The principles of cooking, however, are here very clearly exemplified. Why should the slice of salmon be wrapped up in this oiled paper? Simply for the good old reason of keeping in the flavour. Just as in cooking mutton cutlets en papillote; all the flavour that would otherwise escape is by this means kept in the meat. ''To grill, therefore, properly, it is requisite that the cook should possess patience. It is no use placing a chop on a gridiron, and leaving it to look after itself for a few minutes. It may, for instance, stick. to the gridiron a few seconds after it is put down; and the smaller the fire and the gridiron, the more likely is this to occur. To obviate this possible contingency, a push, if only to move the chop an eighth of an inch, is requisite. Again, if the chop appears to be cooking slowly, lower the gridiron to the fire ; on. the other hand, if it appears to be doing too fast, raise the gridiron ; and, as we have before suggested, if the browning process does not take place as it should, make a flame by means of throwing in a little piece of fat or a little dripping. In serving up a chop or steak, it should be borne in mind that, like a soufilé, it should be sent up directly. A mutton chop to taste right should burn your mouth. This principle iy well recognised in some of our public restaurants which possess their “grill room.” You cannot warm up a chop or steak any more than you can warm up an omelet. In removing the chop from the gridiron, especially if it be in a flaring state, take care to let it rest for a few seconds in mid-air to let the fat drop from it, as, should it be placed on the dish just as it is, a little of the fat will run off it and give a greasy appearance to the dish that is far from desirable. Of course, too, xiv CASSELL’S COOKERY. the dish on which’ thé chop is placed, as well as ‘the cover which ‘goes over it, should be made not merely warm, but hot. CLEANLINESS. Of ail the principles upon which really good cooking depends, there is eisps none so important as that of cleanliness. I would here remark in passing that real cleanliness is by no means so common as many would imagine, the reason being that often servants do not know how to be properly clean. I will give one very simple example—a wine decanter that looks dull. You will be told it has ‘been thoroughly washed, and perhaps some brush inserted, with great difficulty and. loss of time, down the neck. Still the decanter does not look bright. Suppose, however, the person in charge of the glass had been properly instructed—a handful of silver sand put in the decanter with a little water—what a difference! The decanter, after being well rinsed so as to get rid of every particle of sand, reassumes that ‘bright appearance that it originally possessed when, sparkling on the velvet stand under the sunlight in the window, it: tempted the passer-by to enter the shop and purchase it. It may seem a rude statement, but nevertheless true, that the ignorance of some persons, especially women, is simply unfathomable. There are cases on record in which attempts have been made to wash greasy things without soda. This.ignorance . is, of course, rare ; but, too often, cooks wash up incompletely for the sole reason. that they will not use enough soda. Various causes for this will they assign. They say it chaps their hands, but I would.remind cooks that very often they moisten. their hands with hot soda-and water very unnecessarily. It is easy, with a little manage- ment, to avoid strong soda and water touching the backs of the hands and wrists at all, and these are the'parts principally affected. A ie grease, too, eave on the backs of the hands is a great protection. Another point often omitted is the washing of the lids of. the saucepans, taimell as the saucepans themselves. The saucepan may be perfectly clean ; but many a.dish has been spoiled by a dirty lid’ having been placed on it, the perhaps decomposed flavour of the last ingredients cooked in it dropping down with the. condensed steam, Take, for instance, the case of a large fish-kettle- which will take in a turbot whole or a salmon. ‘Now, the water in which fish has been boiled will often turn to jelly when cold, and little, pieces of fish are very apt to stick in .corners, é&e,.. I would strongly recommend every cook, before filling the fish-kettle, to put’ it, for.an. instant on the fire, just long enough to make it warm; then smell the kettle; the warmth will be sufficient to nelt any little congealed particles. that may by.chance have remained behind. Many a fine fish has been utterly spoilt; ae the Hebmengee blamed when the real party at fault has been the ¢ook. . - In speaking of omelets I recommended either a new frying- -pan or one ‘that had only beén used for omelet purposes. The reason of this is that, however careful. the cook might be, the difficulty of absolutely cleansing the frying-pan, suppose, for instance, it had been used for the purpose of frying onions, is really greater, than many persons would suppose... Now, a sweet omelet; in which the delicate flavour: of vanilla assists, would be ruined by the slightest tinge of onion flavour. Let those who blame a cook for imperfect washing, themselves wash an old eau-de-Cologne bottle thoroughly, cork it down tightly, and smell it at the end of a week ;. they, will then be the better able‘to understand how certain “ flavours” possess. the property. of clingitig to hard ‘substances, such as aes ant will be more.lenient when they a8 fault with others. ~'. - : . Ral, avin oii leaked PRINCIPLES—-MANAGEMENT. Xvi —_— to be twirling round in front of the fire, and that the cook, when she put them down, took into her calculations the time it would take to consume the soup, fish, and: two cntrees of oyster patties and haricot, and also the average length of delay common to the: family ; for masters of families who have a trick of ordering dinner at seven o'clock, and coming home at half-past, must put up with two alternatives—one to have dinner regularly half an, hour late, the other to have the dinner at times utterly spoilt, from nearly everything being overcooked. We might have added to our list a saucepan full of cold water, in which float sufficient peeled potatoes, and a basin of water, in which float some well-washed brussels sprouts. Now, if a cook arranges all these things a good hour before dinner, has a good clear fire, and everything round bright and clean and washed up, I defy her to get into a muddle. The soup-tureen and the vegetable-dishes must be filled with boiling water some time before they are wanted. If there is a proper plate-warmer the plates can be placed in it at the right moment, and everything will go straight. Some cooks, however, with such a simple little dinner to arrange as we have described, would, from simple dilatoriness, get into a muddle just at the finish. You will perhaps find them skimming the gravy or making the bread-crumbs all of a hurry when it wants but half an hour to dinner-time. Another instance in which a little forethought will save a great deal of trouble is that of pouring a little boiling water into a saucepan directly it comes off the fire and is emptied. We shall have, another time, to speak of the enormous power enamel saucepans possess of retaining heat. Now, suppose the eook boils up. the gravy, pours it into the hot tureen ready for it, and puts the saucepan down just as itis. The dregs of the gravy cake on as hard as iron from the action of the heat, and the saucepan requires three times more washing. than if the cook had had the common sense to put the saucepan under the boiler tap for a second or two, and given it a rinse round. Having now briefly pointed out in these papers the outlines of the first prin- ciples on which good cookery depends, we will proceed to discuss these principles more in detail. In all large works on cookery it must be borne in mind that receipts are of necessity brief. A certain’ amount of knowledge _ on the ‘part of the cook must be pre-supposed. For instance, in cooking fish—say, a fried sole —the directions given would be—“ Egg and bread- crumb the sole,” &. I re- collect once asking a person of good education (an M.A. of Cambridge) what ‘he would do were he to egg and bread-crumb a fish, He candidly confessed he had not the slightest idea ; and on being presseg for an answer, guessed that the best method would be to first boil the egg and chop it fine, dc. . . . Now, of course, this is ignorance of a certain kind, but a very common form of ignorance, which, indeed, does not deserve the name. Ignorant persons with a little knowledge of : a Special kind are very apt to laugh at others who, while ten times better educated and better informed than themselves, happen to. exhibit a little ignorance on the . _ special subject on which they themselves are ‘informed. For instance, a carpenter's apprentice would probably laugh at and feel great contempt for a man who should walk into his workshop and be unable to pick out a jack-plane from the others. For all that, however, this. man might , be the most brilliant statesman of the age. Again, the greatest living scholar or historian’ might be supremely ignorant as to the best method of cleaning pewter, and might very possibly be regarded in con- seqnence as a fool by the pot-boy. We consider it therefore, necessary in cur $—N.E. xviii CASSELL’S COOKERY. present work to supply for the benefit of absolute novices a few simple directions and éxplanations which, if given in éach receipt, would magnify the present work into ten times its present size. For instance, there is a story on record of a certain royal personage many years ago who remarked that he wondered how the apples were got into the dumpling. Now, why should an ignorant person any more than an educated one be ashamed: of saying—“It is all very well to say, Baste it thoroughly ; but what do you mean by ‘basting?’” Probably any cook of exceed- ingly elementary knowledge would Jaugh at the idea of explaining anything so simple; ‘On the other hand, a professed’ French cook might as well laugh at her for. not knowing how to bone a turkey, or to lard a fillet of beef, or make mayon-. naise sauce. In teaching cocking, as in teaching everything else, the great art for the teacher is to bring down ‘his own mind and' thoughts to the level of the pupil. We wish, therefore, in the present work to: take ‘nothing for granted. The greatest astronomer conimenced his course of. study' by learning the axioms of Euclid, the first of which is the self-evident fact that “things that are equal.to the same thing are equal to one another.” There was a period in the life of Francatelli— probably: an' eatly one—when he did not ‘know what it meant to baste a joint, and was ignorant of the fact that a greasy ei seqned: bode in the: hot water in order thas it could be properly aeaned: aw ewe ge me RAW One of the best tests of a good cook, in our opinion, is good gravy. Good gravy should be perfect i in all the four following , particulars :—Flavour, colour, smell, and consistency. How very often, especially in private houses, do you get gravy —or rather so-called gravy—in t the shape of thin beef-tea, or else it comes up resembling gruel not only in colour, but ‘absolutely i in taste ! An speaking of gravy, we will first refer to the gravy that i ig naturally formed i in rospting : a joint; and secondly, to that far higher branch of cooking, viz. , good. ery seryed in a small tureen with chickens, ducks, game, &e. First, the gravy naturally formed in roasting a joint—say a leg of, mutton, ‘We will compare two legs of mutton as they appear when sent to table, which we will call, respectively, the cheap lodging-house leg, and the gentleman’ s-house leg. The first will be generally sent to table surrounded with a. thick greasy gravy resembling light- brown gruel, and indeed, differs but little i in, appearance, flavour, and consistency from: the gravy . generally ‘ ‘sent up, swwrounding roast veal. ‘The method pursued is as. follows :—First, the joint has been chung up before the fire in the usual way, a large pan (called the dripping- -pan) having been placed underneath it to catch the fat that after a short time always drops from a joint: placed i in front of the fire, The joint, having een Toasted sufficiently, has been probably dredged with flour, i a é, some flour has been shaken over it from a round tin box with holes in the lid. After atime, the ‘woman cooking the joint | has unhooked. it, and placed : it on a dish which ought ¢ to be: a hot one ; she has then, taken a basin and “poured off the greater portion of the fat in the dripping- pan into it, leaving the sediment or dregs in the pan. She has then poured, a little water into the dripping: pan, : and given ita rinse, and poured this into a saucepan. or frying-pan ; but as this appears to her too ‘thin, she Proceeds to thicken” it in the, following rough- and-ready way: :_She first adds to the contents of her squcepan , a teaspoonful | or. more of ordinary flour, this Jatter being’ first. mixed PRINCIPLES—-A ROAST LEG OF MUTTON. xix with:a little cold water, and the whole is then briskly stirred with a spoon, brought to a boil, and poured over the meat. This is the ordinary elementary and most unscientific method of thickening gravy. There are many small families where the master of the house goes out early every morning, returning home to supper, and where but one joint is cooked a week—viz., the Sunday early dinner. The leg of mutton is the usual joint, and is invariably repeated « in the way we: have described: Now, there are thousands of persons who prefer a leg of mutton cooked this way to any ‘other, just as they would prefer a lettuce with half a pint of vinegar with it, to one ‘dressed with mayonnaise sauce from the hands of a Soyer. It is, perhaps, as well that all our tastes are not alike. The proper method of serving up the gravy is as follows :—A void two things, viz., flour and grease. Have you ever seen a spoom dipped in the gravy of a joint, and lifted ? On one side a film of fat’ hangs. Now, when I:see this, the effect on the appetite is exactly similar to a sudden lurch on board: ‘ship, when, after a little misgiving,-you have taken your seat in the cabin- at ‘breakfast. We will suppose the leg, as before, .sufficiently roasted: : Then take the dripping-pan carefully, and pour off slowly from a corner of the dripping-pan all the fat into a small basin. At the bottom of the clear hot fat or dripping in the dripping-pan will be seen a brown sediment. This is really. the concentrated: gravy, and the cook’s object is to pour off all the grease and yet retain the'sediment. With alittle care this can be done easily. Next place the dripping-pan under the boiler- tap, and pour about half a pint or a little more of boiling water into it, and with an iron spoon simply wash off all the brown streaks and spots on the dripping-pan. These brown. marks are really gravy dried. up from the action of the heat, and very’ much resemble in composition what: is known as extract of meat.. Having stirred up all the water thorpughly.in the well of the dripping-pan, the gravy can now be poured through a strainer over the joint. This gravy should be clear and bright, and very nearly free from fat. Of course; some little amount of fat is unavoidable, and this will make its appearance in the.shape of wafers:during the cooling process which takes place during carving, but if proper care has -been exercised the pravy will not be ‘speedily covered with large cakes of fat, nor. will that dreadful hanging from the. spoon’ take place; with the result of setting you against your dinner almost before you commence. Some will say; however, “ Ah, but you can’t get the mutton nice and brown without-flouring it at the finish!” First, I deny the fact if:the fire ‘is really a fierce one; secondly, if you use flour ta brown the joint, I. would: suggest that it is quite: possible: to: flour the joint without flouring the dripping-pan, by simply taking the latter away, and placing a tin under the meat for.a little while. .:.The joint can then be dredged, and pushed closer to 'the fire at the finishing ofthe roasting to brown, while the ‘cook. ace on with ae Oy in the manner we have pointed out. aia : I have here again given the ordinary common way in tah most cooks’ in fairly well-to-do families cook a joint. The gravy to a haunch, loin, or saddle of mutton is obtained in exactly the same manner.. It is, however, an improvement to: substi- tute 4 little broth—I don’t mean stock—for the boiling water ; for instance, if theré are‘some trimmings from. the joint, including a good-sized bone, place these on the fire in.a:saucepan with some water and a pinch of salt,'and let them simmer as long as.'you like, takitig care ‘there is little or no grease on the top; and use this to pour into the dripping-pan instead:of the plain ‘boiling water.. If the gravy'is wished to .be :particularly good, stock, é.¢., broth made from meat, flavoured: with ‘onidn, parsléy|icelery, d&c.; nay be used in the case of a joint of beef, ‘but it is reallly XxX CASSELL’S COOKERY. quite unnecessary. In the case of mutton or lamb it is absolutely objectionable, The great desideratum in roast mutton is simplicity. Hot and red from the gravy being in it, and not blue from being underdone, and served as simply as possible in its own gravy, is what the really simple English palate most prefers. Recollect the highest cooking is often the perfection of simplicity. Good beef and mutton give off, as a rule, plenty of good gravy. Lamb, veal, and pork but little; these three latter kinds of meat, which in passing we would mention require longer cooking in comparison to their size than either mutton or. beef, should have a little gravy made separately. Only in the case of lamb, remember, have a very simple broth made from lamb-bones or mutton-bones, or it will over- power the flavour of the lamb. But in reality lamb does not want much gravy if it is brown and crisp, and has good wholesome mint sauce served with it. We next come to the ordinary gravy for roast fowls, chickens, game, d&c., the principal difficulty in the preparation of which will generally be found to be the thickening ; and as this question of thickening lies at the root of many failures, both in soups, gravies, and entrées, we shall have to dwell on it at some length. Gravy is made from stock. It is, however, of course impossible to describe every- thing at once. We are of necessity compelled to use words such as “stock” without describing what stock means. We will treat the subject “stock” more fully another time, in addition to the ample and clear directions given under the letter S. : We will briefly state stock to be the juice of meat—hbeef, veal, éoc.—extracted by placing it in water, and allowing it to simmer slowly for a long time, extra flavour being imparted to the “‘meat tea” by the addition of various vegetables and herbs, such as onions, parsley, carrots, turnips, celery, &c. Good stock made in the old-fashioned way requires a pound of meat to every pint, and is con- sequently, owing to the present increase in the price of meat, very expensive. On another occasion we shall point out various methods by which stock can bé made without this allowance of one pound to a pint. Nowstock, however made, although if done properly is a jelly when cold, is of the consistency of water when hot. By thickening we mean the process by which the stock is brought, when hot, from the consistency of water to that of cream. A great many cooks, by means of having plenty of meat placed at their disposal, often succeed in the early stage of ‘gravy. 1.¢., they get the stock good and strong, although of a poor colour. It is too early yet in our lessons on the Principles-of Cookery to describe how good stock may be made to assume a bright golden. colour by simply being left to make its own colour in the stock-pot, and consequently it will be more practical to show how to make a light-coloured stock into good brown gravy. We have already described the elementary process of thickening by simply adding flour; the next.stage in advance is flour and butter combined. This is, perhaps, the most common of all methods. A cook will place a small amount of butter on a plate, and by its side a little heap of flour. She will place this plate in front of the fire for the butter to dissolve, and will then, with a steel knife, or if a trifle more advanced in knowledge with a spoon, knead the butter and flour together, add this to the stock, stirring it in till it boils, when the stock will become thick in proportion to the amount of butter and flour put in. By extravagantly using extract of meat, or colouring of some sort, such as sugar, or still worse, a colouring ball, a certain amount of brown colour is imparted to the gravy, which, if the stock is really good and well flavoured and the pepper not forgotten, will be by PRINCIPLES—GRAVY. xxd no means bad. What, however, is the drawback? The flour has been used raw, and a keen palate will detect the flavour we have mentioned and described as “gruelly.” What, however, is the remedy for this? ‘Let the flour be fried instead of raw ; or, in other words, instead of simply using butter and flour to thicken the stock, use brown thickening, or brown roux, as the French call it, and let me here tell cooks that in the end they will absolutely save both time and trouble by making some of this roux or brown thickening beforehand in a fairly good quantity, as when it is made it will keep for a very long time, We all know the difference in the taste of a piece of pie-crust before it is baked and afterwards—one tastes of the flour, the other has a rich taste altogether different. Just such is the difference between ordinary butter and flour and brown thickening. In making thick mock-turtle soup, brown thickening is used to impart that rich flavour which is the characteristic of all thick soups. It would be a most instructive experiment to a young cook if she has a trustworthy taste to try the difference in the flavour of a little good stock or soup; the one thickened with ordinary butter and flour raw, and the other with brown thickening, which we will now describe how to make at somewhat fuller length than would be justifiable in a receipt which, as we have before said, necessarily presupposes a certain amount of knowledge. Suppose, then, a cook to possess some fine dry flour—say half a pound—the same quantity of butter, an enamelled stewpan, a clear brisk fire, and an onion. First. place the butter in the stewpan, and melt it till it runs to what cooks eall oil. . It will be found that there is a white scum at the top, and a milky sediment at the bottom—recollect, melt the butter, but do not boil it—simply melt it. Skim the frothy top, and pour off what may be called the clarified butter, leaving the milky sediment in the pan. Now you have got rid of what is often called the milk in the butter. Next take the stewpan, and having wiped it clean, pour. back the clarified butter into it, and gradually mix in the dried and sifted flour: this will make a sort of pudding, which will all cling together, and will not—or ought not if proper care has been taken to follow these directions—cling to the stewpan. Keep this pudding over the fire, and keep stirring with an iron or wooden spoon till it begins to change colour—i.e., it will gradually from being almost white turn to the colour of underdone pie-crust or the covers of those old-fashioned books which treat of medieval times. As soon as the colour begins to change, redouble the stirring, and occasionally remove the stewpan from the fire for a few minutes alto- - gether, in order that the flour should not be fried brown too quickly, for this is really all that is being done. It will be found that the butter and flour will go on boiling in the stewpan for a long time after it has been removed fromthe fire—ten. minutes or more: such is the power enamelled stewpans possess of retaining the heat. Have ready, close at hand, two slices out of the centre of a good-sized onion about a. quarter of an inch thick. Keep stirring the butter and flour till it is of a light brown colour, not quite so brown as ripe corn, then take the stewpan off the fire, throw in the two slices of onion, which have the double advantage of slackening the heat and of imparting a rich flavour to the thickening. This will cause a great spluttering, and care should be taken to avoid a few little splashes on the backs of the hands. Keep stirring the mixture till all bubbling has ceased, and this will be longer than many would imagine. ‘Pour off what will now be a rich brown fluid, which will assume the appearance of light chocolate when cold, into a deep dish— old marmalade pots are as good as anything—for use. It will keep for months, and is always at hand for thickening gravy. A good-sized table-spoonful of this mixture, - XXil . CASSELL’S: COOKERY. which is called, as we said, brown thickening, or brown roux, will, when mixed with half a pint or a little more of good stock, transform it into. good rich brown gravy which only requires a few additions, varying with what the gravy is intended for, to complete.it. If the gravy is intended for roast fowls, for instance, a little mushroom ketchup may. be added; if for- game, such; as a pheasant, a dessert- ‘spoonful of sherry, : The effect: of brown thickening in gravy is that not only is . the gravy thickened and the. raw flavour inseparable from butter and flour avoided, '* but that the important element-—colour—is introduced or assisted. You may use half a dozen pounds of meat. in’ making gravy, but if it comes up pale and thin it will be thought poor.. The better the cooks the better do they understand! the importance of ‘appearances. Good thick mock-turtle soup.owes its rich colour to this thickening, and it is because brown thickening is so rarely made, or the use of it so little understood in private houses, that home-made thick :mock-turtle is so invariably poor, although the amount of real calves’. head—-and not pig’s ‘head—used in its preparation is probably double that used in an ordinary pastry- cook’s. One great advantage of having brown thickening is, that it is possible to make enough at: once to last a couple of months. Gravy is constantly being wanted ; and in the end.the cook will find time saved by having the thickening at hand ready made, instead of ‘the plate, the.dab of butter, the mixing, the uncertainty as to quantity, é&c., whichis their usual wont in melting a little butter and flour-fresh for each occasion, the reason they melt it together being very properly to avoid the constant stirring necessary: to prevent the gravy or soup thickened turning:lumpy. As, however, we are on. the subject of thickening, by means of brown. roux, soups, such as mock-turtle,. gravies, &., it may occur to some to inquire—How would you thicken white soup, such as Palestine soup, oyster soup, &c. ; or, How ‘would. you thicken’ clieap Béchamel sauce where no cream is used? Our answer ‘is—By.using white roux instead of brown. But then white roux’ or white thickening is not necessarily butter and flour just melted together, which,.as. we have said, has a tendency to give whatever is thickéned a raw and gruelly flavour. The cook will have observed in making the brown ‘thickening what along. time it took before it began to turn colour—in fact, her patience the first time was probably nearly:exhausted, and she would very likely: confess afterwards, flushed with: ‘triumph, ‘that she began to think the “stuff” would never turn colour at all, White.roux is simply, to use an Irish expression, brown thickening just before it gets brown; or, in other words, the grains of raw flour are cooked, but, not coloured. The difference in flavour is as distinct as that of white’ pastry and, dough. - Now, it is evident that ‘brown thickening is of no use when. the. substance thickened is required to be clear or bright. Brown. gravy or thick) mock-turtle soup ‘are what may be called muddy, i.¢., they don’t'pretend to be ‘bright, . There are, however, sauces, and even gravies, that should be thick, and. at the’ same time--bright and clear.. Here, then,.it is apparent that we must have some other thickening altogether....We will take as a specimen: that: exceedingly nice-looking, and at the same time nice-tasting, sauce, called sauce Bordelaise, made from claret ¥ and. as' of course any ordinary sound claret will do for the purpose, in the present day of cheap French wine the sauce is by no means so dear as it would have been a few years ago. © sie 4 2 To make Bordelaise sauce, you must first have some very good stock, perfectly bright and absolutely free from fat. Take say half a pint of guch. stock, and boil it down in a small saucepan, in which has been placed one bead of garlic, PRINCIPLES—-GRAVY, xxiii and a very, little piece of mace and cinnamon, with just a suspicion of cayenne pepper. When the stock, by means of being gently boiled, has evaporated away ' till: there is only one-third of, it left, strain it very carefully off, and. mix it with nearly a tumblerful of claret, and warm it up. It, will of. course be quite thin. Next take a little arrowroot, and ‘mix it with a table-spoonful of cold. water ‘in. a cup ; stir it, and mix it in gradually with the sauce, which must. be just sim- mering on the fire. As soon as the sauce gets. as thick as prepared gum or very thin treacle, it is done. The sauce should, however, be as bright. as claret itself This sauce does for a variety of purposes, such as sweetbreads, boiled fish, or even cold meat may be cut in slices and warmed up in it. The advantage of arrowroot as a thickening is very marked in this sauce, as the brightness. of the ‘solour is not in the least destroyed, and the exact consistency liked can easily be obtained by simply adding a little at a time, and keeping the sauce well stirred and simmering. Recollect, however; in using arrowroot as a means of thickening, always to mix it with cold water in a cup, and stir it up before taking any out, as the arrowroot will settle and cake at the bottom of the cup. Arrowroot is the best thickening when clearness is desirable ; there are many kinds of gravies, however, which are necessarily clear, and yet which are ill-adapted to bear brown thickening. The gravy for ordinary hashed mutton is one. Colour can he im- parted by browning a little sliced onion with a little butter in a frying-pan, or. by means of burnt brown sugar and water; or toasted bread. This gravy is. best thickened with corn-flour or arrowroot, as mutton previously cooked is not savoury enough to bear the rich flavouring of brown thickening like roast goose, or duck, or fowl. Colouring from sugar is made by simply melting some coarse, brown sugar in an old frying-pan till it looks like blood, and then pouring some. ‘boiling water on it, and stirring it till it is dissolved. ; . Colouring-balls for soups, gravies, &c., are sold: in bottles, and are ntiede in France from vegetables, but they vary considerably, and sometimes impart by no means an agreeable flavour to the soup or gravy. ‘Used with caution, however, they ‘are at times very valuable, as a little piece will go a long way; but I will defer. going into the question of colouring soups until we enlarge on that most important branch of cooking, viz., letting stock colour itself, by being reduced to a glaze in the making, which is ie preferable to any artificial means. . : There is one most important point which the cook. should always bear. in mind when brown thickening is used for either soup or gravy, and that is, re- . moving the fat or butter which will always rise to the surface of the soup or gravy after boiling. Should this important point be omitted, the gravy or soup- ladle might possibly have a film of fat. hanging from it similar to what we have already described as happening to the gravy from a roast joint when the, cook has been careless in pouring off the grease. After the gravy or soup has been thickened, allow it to boil up, and then stand it on one side of the fire; In a very few minutes a film of grease from the butter in the thickening will make its appearance on the top, and requires removing; this. must be: repeated several times. The safest method is to allow the gravy or Beep to simmer gently, when it will gradually what is called “throw up the grease.” If, then, when the liquid is simmering, it be. occasionally skimmed, all fear of greasy gravy or soup is removed. The same process applies in using white thickening. Suppose you have thickened some Palestine soup, which is made from Jerusalem artichokes, allow the thickened soup to boil. The top will have a yellow, oily appearance, Xxiv CASSELL’S COOKERY. owing to the butter in the thickening. This must be skimmed off; but even after all has been skimmed, by allowing the soup to simmer gently some more probably will be thrown up. Some cooks have an idea that if when they have »:; But before entering into the‘details of the various--wines, I will quote what Mr. Francatelli’s opinions on the subject were, and,'as I have always: entertained stcha profound respect for his opinions on ‘the subject of sookEry; I trust. that I: amey be pardoned for giving the quotation at some length :—" 5 “i'The: judicious ‘service’of winesat the dinner-table ‘is: essential to! the pines success ofa well-ordered'and recherché dinner; for on: the manner and order in which ixxx CASSELL’S COOKERY. this service is:‘conducted will chiefly depend the more or less favourable judgment awarded (independently of their real claims to superiority) to the wines put before the guests. First, let it. be remembered that all possible care alicuita be taken in removing the bottles from their bins, and afterwards, also, in handling them for the purpose of drawing the corks and decanting the wines not to disturb any deposit that may exist in the bottles, for that deposit, if shaken, destroys not only the brilliancy of the wine, but impairs its flavour and bouquet. “The different kinds of sherries, ports, madeira, and all Spanish and Portuguese wines in general, are the better for having been decanted several hours before being drank. During winter their aroma is improved by the temperature of the dining- room acting upon their volatile properties for an hour or so before dinner-time. By paying due attention to this part of the process, all the mellowness which good wines acquire by age predominates to the delight of the epicure’s grateful palate. The lighter wines, such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and most of the wines of Italy, should be most carefully handled, and decanted an hour only before dinner-time. In winter the decanters should be either dipped in warm water or else placed near the fire to warm them for about ten minutes previously to their being used. In summer, use the decanters without warming them, as the genial warmth of the atmosphere will. be all-sufficient, not only to prevent chilling the wines, but to develop their fragrant bouquet. Moreover, let these, and all delicate wines, be brought into the dining- room as late as may be consistent with convenience. “And now as regards the order in which wines should be served during dinner. I would recommend all bon vivants desirous of testing and thoroughly enjoying a variety of wines to bear in mind that they should be drank in the following order, viz. :—When it happens that oysters preface the dinner, a glass of Chablis or Sau- terne is their most proper accompaniment; genuine old Madeira, or East India sherry, or Amontillado, proves a welcome stomachic after soup of any kind, not excepting turtle, after eating which, as you value your health, avoid all kinds of punch, especially Roman punch. During the service of fish, cause any of the fol- lowing to be handed round to your guests: Amontillado, Hock, Tisane, Champagne, Pouilly, Meursault, Sauterne, Arbois, Vin de Grave, Montrachet, Chateau-Grillé, Barsac, and generally all kinds of dry white wines.” Having enumerated a variety of different kinds: of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, and other wines, Mr. Franca- telli proceeds to say, “A question of the highest importance, but into which I may but briefly enter, is to determine to which of all these wines a decided preference should be given, both with regard to taste and also in respect to their influence on the health of different temperaments, It is easier to settle the latter part of the question than the former, inasmuch as it is difficult, not to say impossible, to lay down rules for the guidance of the palate. Thus there are some who delight in the perfumed yet austere bouquet of Bordeaux, while others prefer the delicate fragrance of Champagne ; some give the palm to the generous and mirth-inspiring powers of Burgundy ; while the million deem that Madeira (when genuine), port, and sherry, from what are termed their generous natures, ignoring the plentiful admixture of alcohol, are the only wines worthy of notice. All these tastes are no doubt well enough founded on good and sufficient reasons, and may prove safe indicators for the preservation of health ; for instance, a person of sanguine temperament feels a neces- sity for a light sapid wine, such as genuine Champagne and Rhenish wines, while the phlegmatic seek those of a more spirituous, generous nature—Burgundy, port, PRINCIPLES—WINE. lxxxi Madeira, or sherry. Those who are a prey to spleen, lowness of spirits, and melancholy, are prone to select, as a sure and pleasant remedy for their frightful ailments, the wines of Italy, Spain, Portugal, Roussillon, and Burgundy. The bilious, who gene- rally are blessed with a good appetite, provided always that they do not smoke, require a generous wine which, while capable of acting both as an astringent and a dissolvent of the bile, is of facile digestion ; such are the properties of all first-class Bordeaux wines. Bordeaux is said to be a cold wine; this false notion arises out of mere prejudice—nothing can be more contrary to truth. This health-restoring wine, as I have already stated, is easy of digestion, and possesses moreover the advantage of being very considerably less inebriating than any other first-class wine. In short, Burgundy is exciting, Champagne is captious, Roussillon restorative, and Bordeaux stomachic. ws It now remains to show the order in which the several sorts of wines enumerated. above should be served at table. Custom and fashion have ever had more to do with this practice than any real consideration for health or taste. It is generally admitted by real gowrmets that red wines should precede the introduction of white wines— those recommended as proper accompaniments to oysters and fish excepted. The custom most in vogue at the best tables in London and Paris is to commence by introducing, simultaneously with the entrées, any of the following Burgundy wines : —Avallon, Coulanges, Tonnerre, Vermanton, Irancy, Mercurey, Chassagne, and, generally, all those wines known under the specific names of Magon and Auxerre. These may be varied or replaced by other wines, denominated Saint Denis, Saint Ay, and Beaugency. These again lead to the further libations of Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Richebourg, Chambertin, Saint Georges, Romanée. With the second course—roasts, dressed vegetables, and savoury entremets—honour your guests by graciously ushering to their notice sparkling Champagne and Moselle, the deliciously perfumed Cumidres, the brilliant Sillery, the glorious Hermitage, Céte-ritie, and Chateau-Grillé. With the service of the entremets de doucewr—or, as we have it, the sweéts—let iced-creaming, sparkling Champagne, or Moselle, be handed round ; but, far superior to them, I would recommend a trial of Ai pétillant Arbois, Condrieux, Rivesaltes, Malaga, Frontignan, Grenache, Malmsey, Madeira, aud Hast India Sherry.” Mr. Francatelli then proceeds to state, “So little wine is drunk at dessert in this country that it would be superfluous to enter into particulars about the service further than to refer the reader to the list of wines appropriated to this part of a dinner, the list being as follows :— Dessert WINES. Muscat-Frontignan Madeira Muscat-Lunel. Malmsey, Madeira Muscat-Rivesalte Syracuse Grenache Tokay Vin de Paille Constance Malaga Carcavallos Rota Picoli Alicante Schiras I have before observed that we all of us of necessity approach the subject of wine with a certain amount of prejudice, and I have consequently given at some length Mr. Francatelli’s opinion on this subject, written in the year 1862. It should , be remembered, too, that Mr. Francatelli occupied during his life the high positions SNE lxxxii CASSELL’S COOKERY. of chef at the Reform Club, chef to Her Majesty the Queen, and manager of the ccusotile Tavern. It would be affectation in any one, consequently, ‘to despise the opinion of one who had had so much opportunity for studying the tastes, of the most wealthy members of what is probably the most luxurious country in, the world. Still we must confess that in reading so goodly a list. of dessert wines . that, not- withstanding the great authority that penned it, we feel that it cannot be considered complete sithout the addition of what may be called our grand national wine—good genuine port. ; In fact Francatelli wrote for, comparatively speaking, a small class who lead to a, great extent artificial lives, . In treating generally the subject of the service of wine, exactly the same general principles have to be considered as in treating the subject of food. The two chief points are : first, the habits of life of those served; secondly, the time of year, or, rather, we should say the climate. _ To lay down..general recommendations with regard to dinner, we must first consider the mode.of life of the eater. ‘For instance, take two cases. The one of a City man, say a jobber on, the Stock Exchange, who passes his day. in a hot scene of intense excitement, the wear and tear upon the nervous system being | terrific. He returns home exhausted, but not hungry: the reaction of comparative rest in too many cases being spoilt by another reaction felt after taking occasional stimulants during the day, such stimulants being felt necessary at the time. Contrast such a one—and the case is typical of a very large class whose brains are over-taxed, such as hard-worked barristers, lawyers, hospital physicians, &¢.—contrast such a one with the stout jolly farmer, who rises at five, and after a heavy and substantial breakfast, passes his day on horseback, returns home with a wolfish appetite, his sole care and anxiety being that Farmer Styles’ wheat is about half an inch higher than his own. We can well understand his feelings expressed in the graphic words—“None. of your kickshaws!” Half a dozen oysters and a glass of chablis would be as unsuitable a commencement of dinner for the latter as thick pea ‘soup and underdone roast beef. cut thick, with a draught of strong home- brewed ale, would be for-the former. ‘Probably were we to take the whole of those who in this country are in the habit of drinking wine habitually, we should find that by far the greater number are in the habit.of taking a little sherry with dinner in addition to -beer,' and a glass or two of port wine afterwards. A sip of sherry after soup, and a glass after both fish and sweets, seems almost necessary. Indeed, I think that where there is absolutely no wine, I would prefer to dine off the joint, or, at any rate, butchers’ meat alone; but prefacing that a little good beer is far preferable to bad sherry, we will first felis this most’ popular of English dinner-wines, and have a few words to say with regard’ to its selection and keeping. Sherry may be divided into two classes—dinner ‘sherry and after-dinner sherry. I am heré speaking of comparatively cheap sherry, as of course good old East India sherry worth 7s. or 8s. a bottle is exceedingly good with dinner as well as after, but then in the generality of houses we expect to get sherry that has cost from 24s. to 36s. a dozen. I know sherry can be bought as low as 15s. a dozen, even in single bottles, at least a compound called sherry—I ‘have, indeed, tasted it. I should imagine that it is bought by that class of persons, who not knowing what really good sherry is, yet occasionally like to have some on their tables for show. Indeed, the greater part of the really bad and unwholesome wine that is drunk is consumed by this class—vulgar persons. who attempt to live in-the same style as their pétter-educated and wealthier PRINCIPLES—SHERRY. lxxxifi neighbours. These persons would consume almost anything, as indeed a story that. went the round of the papers a short time back shows. . Some colliers in the North; during the time when men were earning far more money than they knew how to. spend, walked into a hotel, and asked for some port, on the ground, as they’ said: among themselves, of that being the wine “the quality drank.” The hotel- -keeper;‘on his return after:a short absence, found his daughter in the bar in the act of send- ing up a third bottle off the top shelf, where port was generally kept, two previous bottles having been drank and paid for. The bottles, however, were port bodies, but contained mushroom ketchup ; and we can only say with regard to the 15s. sherry, | that it would have made an admirable “whitewash,” as Sheridan’s: glass is still sometimes called, on the occasion in question. When sherry'is consumed in any quantity, it will generally be found best to: en it in the wood. A quarter cask contains close upon fourteen dozen of wine, or ‘twenty-eight gallons. Any respectable wine merchané will supply a good pale: dry dinner-wine at £15 for a quarter cask. I do not think you oan depend upon! a really good wine cheaper, and though a quarter cask of sherry can be bought. for» £10, I am-confident that the wine at £15 is really the cheapest: in the truest acceptation of the word. Ordinary wine of this description will: be found best in the wood, nor indeed does it materially improve by being kept in bottles for. years. I would here.disabuse some of your minds from ‘a too-common fallacy. Many persons imagine that because some fine old wine ‘is’ good, that therefore . all old wine » is good. Old bottled wine, to be worth anything, must possess a certain quality before it is bottled, or it will not merely not improve, but absolutely deteriorate, and ultimately become bad. I would illustrate this point:by beer. We all know that fine strong Burton ale—trade mark A 1, as it is called—-will keep for years, and improve in- bottle. If, however, we bottle thin table-beer, the result.is that even in one year's time it turns sour. So it is with wine—thin cheap port andl aorey will- not keep beyond a certain time. Good rich sherry, well selected, will = for almost any length of time, and is always best kept in the wood. There is sherry to be got now in the wood over fifty years of age—of course the price is very high. When this sort of wine is bottled, about six or eight years is necessary to ‘give it a peculiar twang only obtained by bottling, much admired by connoisseurs. Good sherry of this denen should be fietanied some little time before it is wanted. One great advantage of drawing off ordinary sherry from the se is that it is always bright. Sometimes in bottled sherry, especially of a rather superior class, it will be found that the last glass or half-glass is a little thick ; in decanting sherry, therefore, bear in mind to reserve this little drop and not make the whole décanter cloudy for its sake. When sherry is known to be like this it will be found best to put a bottle upright two or three days before it is wanted ; then, if decanted carefully, and so that the light can be seen through the nottles very littl indesd need be wasted. Never throw away the dregs of any kind of wine, but have aha is sailed a cooking bottle : the dregs of sherry when mixed together will settle down, and do for flavouring gravies, such as salmi sauce or mock-turtle paid ae ‘dregs, too, of port wine io: for jugged hare, venison, &e. Some sherry, especially of a very light, delicate colour, will eee have a. slight taste of sulphur. | ‘I believe this is owing’ to the wine originally being carried. on mules’ backs in Spain in skins; which skins have been rubbed with’ ‘sulphur: lxxxiv CASSELL’S COOKERY. This peculiar flavour, though slightly impairing the delicacy of the wine, is not, however, unwholesome. In selecting sherry, of course everything depends upon the palate of the taster. It is, however, often best to leave this selection to the wine merchant, always bearing in mind that it is impossible to get a fine wine for 18s. a dozen. The chief point to be avoided in sherries is spirit. Some of the very cheap sherry contains a great deal of an exceedingly unwholesome spirit—wood spirit, in fact, which is very injurious. These fiery sherries are almost the worst form of stimulant in which persons can indulge. Remember, therefore, in buying sherry that there is no such thing as a bargain, save at sales by auction, When any person offers you three sixpences for a shilling, you may depend upon it that at least two out of the three must be bad ones. It is quite impossible to get a pure, wholesome wine at 1s. 3d. a bottle; and it is to be regretted that such large quantities of injurious wine are allowed to be sold in this country, as well as bad spirits. Indeed, many of the unfortunate poor who are charged with drunkenness are in reality more poisoned than drunk, and many of those shocking outbursts of wild ferocity that too often appear in the police reports are the results of the brain being maddened temporarily by poisonous liquors. We will next proceed to discuss port—probably still the most really popular wine in this country. Much that has been said of cheap sherry applies equally to cheap port, the only difference being that port is a somewhat dearer wine than sherry. When the consumption of wine in a house is large, it will be found advisable to draw the port for every-day drinking from the wood, «.¢., if you feel sure you will finish the cask within twelve months. When port is kept in the wood too long it is . apt to lose colour and deteriorate in flavour. The minimum price at which I should say a fairly sound palatable port can be bought would be about £18 for a quarter cask, 7.¢., twenty-eight gallons, or between thirteen and fourteen dozen of wine. Port varies very much with the year and also with the time of bottling. The most famous vintages are 1820, 1834, 1840, 1847, 1863, and 1870. The 1840 port is a splendid dry wine that still retains its colour in perfect integrity, and when authenticated will fetch a guinea a bottle. The 1847 port varies immensely, some being rather sweet. It is still a very rich wine, and when bottled early is nearly equal to the 1840, though not so dry. Very few vintages promise better than the 1870, the wine already fetching 48s. a dozen. Port wine throws a crust on the bottle, which crust should be transparent. Great care should be taken in decanting the wine not to break this crust. Consequently the bottle, which of course is lying on its side in the cellar, should be moved very gently, the cork drawn without shaking the bottle if possible, the wine then poured into the decanter through a wine strainer in which a piece of fine muslin has been placed, and the wine must be watched as it is gently poured out, taking care to keep the same side of the bottle uppermost as in the bin. The moment the wine has the least appearance of being cloudy, cease pouring the wine. As long as only little pieces of the crust come out which look transparent, and which are retained in the strainer, and the rest of the wine pours clear, there is no fear of continuing to pour. ‘When, however, the wine itself is cloudy, stop instantly, or the whole bottle will be spoiled. Recollect that port wine when not bright loses not only in appearance but in flavour. Port wine requires great care in keeping, as it is utterly ruined if exposed. to great cold. Port that has been exposed to severe frost gets cloudy, and never PRINCIPLES— PORT. Ixxxv properly recovers its character. The best cellars for keeping wines are those that remain at about the same temperature all the year round, A temperature of between 50 and 60 is very good for wine. In fact, a good cellar strikes cold in summer and hot in winter. One very common cause of wine being spoiled is bad corks, and I have often wondered at it. The difference between good and indifferent corks is go slight, that spoiling wine from corkage reminds one of the old saying, of “spoiling a ship for the sake of a ha-porth of tar.” In choosing corks for bottling wine, the best plan is to take a quantity up in both hands, and smell them: should there be a peculiar tausty smell, the corks are bad, and will utterly spoil a delicate wine. Port for ordinary every-day consumption is, as we have said, best from the wood. Sometimes, however, a cask of port is ordered in, and after some has been drawn off the rest is bottled. Now very much depends upon the way in which wine is bottled. In the first place, the wine must be perfectly bright in the cask ; secondly, the bottles must be not only clean, but quite dry inside; thirdly, the wine must be well corked, the corks must fit perfectly tight, and should properly be moistened in a little of the wine that is being bottled, and then the cork hammered down with a wooden mallet. It is by some supposed that the crust on port-wine bottles is the sediment of the wine, which has been put into the bottle rather cloudy. The wine is always bottled bright, but after bottling the wine will turn cloudy, especially in spring and autumn, of its own accord ; a crust then settles and adheres to the bottle, and the wine gradually matures and improves, if it is kept at an equal temperature all the year round. Port wine, however, that has to undergo the variations of temperature that oecur in this climate will never mature at all. It is quite possible that the fact of the barbarous custom of building most modern small houses without any wine cellars worthy of the name will do much to decrease the consumption of port wine throughout the country. In selecting port wine of course as tastes differ the purchaser must judge to a certain extent for himself. In selecting from samples, I would, however, warn you against being prejudiced by ‘price, and would therefore recommend you invariably to act as follows :—Should your wine merchant send you samples, let these same samples be marked by letters or numbers, and let the price of them be sealed up in a separate letter. Then taste and discuss the samples aloud with a friend, and open the letter and see how far your palate agrees with those of others afterwards. This is the only way to approach wine really unprejudiced, and in speaking by-and-by of Australian wine I shall again revert to this point—for bear in mind that it is equally foolish to imagine wine must be good because it costs 10s. a bottle—alas! what stuff some hotel keepers have the conscience to ask this price for !—as it would be to condemn a wine as rubbish simply because it is only 30s. a dozen. Good port is one of the most wholesome and nourishing wines that can be taken —of course being a strong wine it must be taken in moderation. / We next come to claret—that light, nourishing, and wholesome wine that is now so largely consumed in this country, and which can now be obtained really good at so small a price. Really good sound claret can be obtained at 16s. a dozen, and if the wine is imported in wood and bottled on the premises, at a far smaller cost. One great advantage claret possesses over most other wines is that it is easy of ‘digestion, not fattening ; containing as it does but little sugar, and consequently Ixxxvi CASSELL’S COOKERY. admirably adapted to. persons. who lead: sedentary lives. In France, claret. corre- sponds to our beer, poor men being-able to obtain a tumblerful for a-penny. - : Notwithstanding, however, its cheapness, the French generally mix water with it. Indeed, the French are the most thrifty nation in the whole’ world, and this economy on their part, coupled with industry, is, the secret of their enormous wealth, -probably far greater than our.own. Claret, like all other light wines, is ‘best kept in bottles. Of course claret.is originally kept in wood, but not for long. Claret, like port, varies very much with the vintage or year, some years being remarkably good, while others are comparative failures. ‘One of the finest vintages ever known in France was that of 1848. Well-bottled and well-authenticated clarets, either Chateau Margaux, or Chateau Lafitte of 1848, will now fetch fancy prices—indeed, not very long ago there was a-sale of the Lafitte.at the chateau in which’ some of the'1848 wine fetched 100 francs a bottle, or £4 English money. .+|There is perhaps no wine in the. world thati varies so much as claret; and the comparison. between a bottle of good. Lafitte and a bottle of vin enlipite only shows what,care and cultivation of the grape will effect. i --The three-first-class clarets are-undoubtedly: Chateau sitadaiidh Chateau Lafitte, and Chateau Latour.. These wines are-generally very expensive—any good ‘years fetching about 84s. a dozen when almost new wines. Indeed, the Chateau Margaux and Lafitte of 1870 is nearly £5 a dozen. Now and then, when the year has been bad, these, wines, even genuine, can be obtained very cheap.. For instance, Chateau Lafitte for 1872 can be got for about 54s. to..60s. a dozen, but then -it is quite a different jclass.of wine to say. 1874 or 1870, both of which are famous. years. Chateau La Rose and Chateau Léoville. are also, good-wines, though not-equal: to those we have mentioned. -Good Chateau La ‘Rose, however, will vie with any wine in respect to bouquet, possessing as it does that delicate. scent: eee to fresh-blown roses, which indeed gives it.its name. - i Bea In selecting claret great attention should be paid to the Dookie the wine —indeed many judges of wine would be able to select by the smell-alone, without tasting. In.choosing claret, however, especially the cheaper kinds, purchasers should ‘be. on their guard. against being deceived by the bouquet. Very often claret is, we will not say adulterated, but mixed with a small quantity of Burgundy, the latter being added to give it a bouguet. ‘Thus a very inferior and poor claretsis passed. off as something superior. -Experience alone will enable the taster to decide what is Burgundied, claret..and what is pure... The Burgundy :generally used to mix with claret is Beaune, which is a splendid wine possessing a very marked bouquet. Those familiar with. the flavour of Beaune will: be better able: to ida ia claret that hag, had Beaune added to it. pig bleaurs In choosing ¢laret very much depends, not merely on the pavtibidias name or brand, unk on the year, and.also on the time, and by whom it was bottled. Of course, out of the thousands of hogsheads of claret that are imported it would be folly to expect that all would be perfectly pure vintage wines. Some persons prefer a full-bodied claret, and some a thin light wine—this is, of course, a matter of taste, but in selecting thin clarets it is essential that they should be perfectly free from acidity... An acid claret is never good. Tt has been stated lately that an injurious colouring matter has been used to improve the appearance of clarets: I am, however, disposed to think that these statements are exaggerations. At any rate, there is never any difficulty in obtaining a pure wholesome claret from any wine merchant, Some few years ago, at the time when the new commercial treaty with France PRINCIPLES—CLARET. lexxvil enabled claret to be sold at its present price im this country, it was fondly imagined by some that claret would gradually supersede the use: of: beer in’ this country. Indeed,’ a great statesman publicly remarked that he looked forward to the time ‘when “the British workman would call for ‘his glass of claret instead :of his'pint' of ‘beer.” ' That “time, however, has not yet arrived, and never will go long as the claret sold at ordinary public-houses remains what it is at present. Why this is the ‘case, I cannot say, but the fact remains, and may be tested: any day. Let any one go to an‘ordinary’public-house—not a good hotel—and ask for-a glass of claret, and ‘the probability is that they will be served with some quite undrinkable compoutiid. That claret will ever supersede beer: with English workmen is of course a visionary idea, but many men would undoubtedly drink claret in preference to beer, especially in hot summer weather, were it'to be got’ on draught cheap, and it is’ to be regretted that it cannot be more easily obtained. . - carte Os In hot weather, too often the common beer sold quenches the ‘thitst only momentarily, but soon gives rise to a craving for more. Claret, especially when mixed with water, is’ practically unintoxicating, and is the ‘best drink’ of any to allay thirst. Burgundy is a stronger and richer wine: than claret, and has ‘the reputation of being the most blood-making wine there is: As a rule, ordinary ‘Burgundy is 4 trifle dearer than claret. However, an excellent and ‘pure wine may be obtained’ for 18s. a dozen.’ It is not, however, so easy of digestion as élaret. ‘Those who can take Burgundy, and require nourishment, will find Btirgundy a far ‘cheaper’ wine than claret: Burgundy, like claret, varies immensely in quality and price. ‘The best--Burgundies are’ Clos Vougeot and: Chambertin, arid: these wines generally fetch from 72s. to’ 84s..a dozen. Burgundy, like’ claret; is best/in bottle, and should never be kept long in the wood. ae ~~ Good Beaune can be: obtained considerably cheaper than Clos Vougeot or Cham- bertin, and is'‘one ofthe best kinds of Burgundy that can be chosen for’ every-day drinking. Burgundy will occasionally throw a crust like port. Indeed, in: bottling and keeping Burgundy almost as ‘much care is requisite as if it were port, as Bur- -gundy suffers from change of temperature far more than claret, ‘and some Kinds, like port; are apt to eloud even after being bottled in the spring‘and autumn of the year in-sympathy with the vine—the best, and in fact ory, means of prevention for ‘what may be termed this'second fermentation being equal temperature. EER On the subject of hock and Moselle little need be said. Good ‘hock is always dotiled in the district: in which the wine'is made. A fairly sound hock can be obtained now at 24s, a dozen. Hocks, like Burgundy and claret, vary immerikely in pricé,-good Cabinet Johanisburg fetching at times ‘as’ fabulous a price as famous -vintages of Lafitte claret. Moselle resembles hock somewhat, only it has ‘a slight Muscatel flavour: as a rule, Moselle is slightly dearer ‘than hock—that is, in ‘the ‘ cheaper sorts. -In-selecting-both hock and Moselle‘the thrée chief points to be borne in mind are—freedom from acidity, brightness, and Bouquet. Cheap hock and cheap Moselle are both apt to be somewhat cloudy, and as an almost universal rule with regard to wine it may be laid down that cloudy wine is always of inferior flavour. ain tA : a etre We next come to what many regard as the highest of all wines, 2.¢., ‘Champagne. Certainly in this country at'any rate Champagne is regarded by many as the very height of luxury. There are many who look upon Champagne as a wine only to be used on great occasions, such as wedding breakfasts or the' birthday of the heir, ie. Of ‘late ‘years, however, Champagne’ has’ beeri drank far more..generally than it was lxxxviii CASSELL’S COOKERY. a few years ago; indeed, in everything we see advances nowadays in the direction of luxury and extravagance. At what exact price good Champagne can be bought it is very difficult to say. The cheaper kinds vary immensely, some years being far better than others. Of the cheaper kinds, however, we shall have more to say when we come to consider the substitutes for first-class wines. I would, however, roughly state the minimum price at which any Champagne that is the pure juice of the grape can be bought to be from 42s. to 48s. a dozen. A large quantity of wine is sold in this country under the name of Champagne, much of which indeed comes from the Champagne district that really is Champagne only in name. Whether this is made by using up the refuse of the grapes from which good Champagne is made, or using unripe grapes, rhubarb, gooseberries, or apples, I cannot say positively, but that the majority of cheap Champagne is unfit to drink at all there can be no shadow of a doubt. Considering the price any one has to pay for a bottle of ‘Champagne at Epernay itself, it seems on the face of it absurd for persons to adver- tise Champagne in this country at 26s. dozen. Were you, say in Paris or Berlin, to be offered a quart bottle of Bass’s bitter ale for 4d., you would naturally feel that there was something wrong somewhere. As a rule, of course, the general principle holds good, that it is far better to give either good wine or none at all. This general principle, however, holds especially true with regard to Champagne, and I would specially appeal to those who are going to give Champagne with a little dinner-party about to come off. Ask your conscience as to what is your real motive. Do you wish to please your guests? or do you wish to show off ?—.¢., is your motive in giving Champagne simply that of vying with or perhaps surpassing your neighbours? If the former is your motive, and you cam afford it, lay in some Champagne of a really good brand, 66s. to 72s. a dozen; have it cool, 1.6. , nearly freezing, a degree or two above freezing-point ; and whatever you do, don’t put ice in the wine if the Champagne is really good—and it ought to be at the price I have named—it is a barbarous custom. Next, let your guests have enough. I should say a fair allowance is a bottle between two persons. Do not, however, open one bottle, and then ask if anybody will have any more. If you do, every one will say, “No, thank you.” On the other hand, if you open a bottle first and take it round, every single one will have a second glass, and a good many a third. Indeed, we fear, some would continue till they pronounced truly rural as “tural lural.” If you cannot afford to give good Champagne and still wish to give your guests a treat, lay in a stock of Bass’s strong Burton ale, Al. I think it fetches nearly Is. 6d. a bottle. Let this be in good condition, and let the bottle stand upright in a moderate temperature for a week before it is opened. The ale is rather high coloured, but when perfectly bright and sparkling, with a rich creamy froth on the top, a glass of it is worth all the cheap Champagne in the world put together. Indeed, there is as much difference between this ale and ordinary draught beer as there is between Chateau Lafitte and vin ordinaire. There are so many different brands of Champagne that it seadld be almost impossible to enumerate and criticise them all. I have before mentioned the Duke of Montebello’s Champagne, which is a somewhat neglected wine, seeing that the carte blanche both of the maximum sec and ordinary sec is quite equal to any of the highest-class brands, and can be obtained at a cheaper price at present. If called upon to say which Champagne is entitled to take first prize, I should say Heidsieck’s Monopole. Pommery and Greno, or, rather, Pommery et fils, as I think the firm is PRINCIPLES—-SPARKLING WINES. Ixxxix now called, Moét and Chandon—especially for their: Brut Imperial, which is a very fine wine—and Roederer all rank very high. I would also mention Jules Mumms Ruinart pére et fils, Giesler, Perrier Joiet, Wachter, Piper, Veuve Clicquot, ce. The last of these is a fine wine of excellent bouquet, but not altogether adapted to the English palate, as it is a somewhat sweet wine. However, during the last few years a new kind of wine has been imported called Veuve Clicquot (sec), which is well worth a trial. Of all Champagnes, perhaps Moét’s is the best known, anc this wine seems to be universally chosen by publicans as the one wine they keep. _ Champagne is best kept in a cooler cellar than that which is requisite for Ports, Clarets, or Burgundies. Great care should also be taken in seeing that the bottles are placed on their sides, as if Champagne is kept for any length of time upright it will become flat. Champagne is generally imported in wooden cases, and it is usual to keep the wine in these boxes, which are, as a rule, marked “ Keep this side up,” as a guide how they should be placed before they are opened. We have now run through the general wines drunk in this country, viz., Sherry, Port, Claret, Burgundy, Hock, Moselle, and Champagne. There is one wine, however, once most popular, but that of late years seems to have gone out of fashion, and that is Madeira. There seems, however, a strong probability of this wine coming in again, The vines in Madeira, which so completely failed some few years ago, have very much recovered. Good old East India Madeira, such as is now rarely to be obtained, save at a public dinner of some City company, will bear comparison with almost any wine in the world. The new Madeira now imported is, for its price, really a far cheaper wine than sherry, the principal drawback to it being it is somewhat sweet. However, in a few years’ time there seems every probability of Madeira recovering its lost position, and those who possess good cellars might certainly make worse speculations than that of laying down some of the new Madeira, which they can get at about 48s, a dozen. There is good sound Madeira to be got at a far cheaper rate. The objection of sweetness is fatal to a large class of wines, and as the public taste just now runs upon dry wines, it is a bad time to attempt to introduce any wine save those that possess this quality. The consumption, for instance, of Sparkling Hock, Sparkling Moselle, and Sparkling Burgundy is less in proportion than that of former years, owing to the difficulty of obtaining these wines dry. Sparkling Hock has too often a tendency to acidity. Sparkling Moselle is a deliciously-scented wine, but is often sweet. It is what used to be called a ladies’ wine, and I should imagine children would prefer Sparkling Moselle to ordinary Champagne. At least I am judging of my own feelings and tastes as a child—for in the present day it seems to me that so-called children acquire tastes for dry wines and lobster salads before they leave off knickerbockers. Sparkling Burgundy, when not too sweet, is a magnificent wine, and as its price is below that of the first brands of Champagne, it is somewhat strange that it is not more generally drunk. : With regard to the order in which wine should be drunk at dinner we lave already alluded. If dinner is preceded by those expensive luxuries, oysters, nothing can compare with a glass of Chablis. After soup, a glass of sherry; if the soup be turtle, a glass of Madeira. After fish, either a dry sherry, or should the fish’ be rich, such as stewed eels, a glass of old East India sherry. Hock, after light entrées; and claret or Burgundy after richer entrées. Champagne not too early in the dinner if dry, and not till late if at all sweet. This seems the fashion in the present day, xe CASSELL’S COOKERY. and in long and elaborate dinners is perhaps best. Of course when wine is drunk freely during dinner, it cannot be drunk freely after dinner. Again, port wine after dinner when Champagne is drunk with dinner is a mixture which but few persons can stand. Port is a heavy wine, and after Champagne is very apt to disagree. On the other hand, the old-fashioned plan, especially at bachelors’ dinner-parties, will be found best. A good substantial dinner, say a little thin soup, a cut off the joint, and a grouse. With dinner a glass or two of dry sherry, a glass of bitter ale, and a good bottle of port wine, and a chat afterwards. Finish up, if you like, with a bottle of Chateau Margaux and a single glass of sherry. To my mind, the latter dinner is preferable to the former, where a series of elaborate entrées are served with a variety of wines not always of the best quality. One very agreeable form of drinking cheap hock, claret, &c., in summer time is in the shape of “cup.” There are various ways of making claret cup, but I will give one of the simplest :—Take a few lumps of sugar, about six or eight, according to the size, and let a few drops of boiling water be poured on them to assist in dissolving them. Take a bottle of claret, and add in addition to the sugar two slices of a hard lemon, a glass of sherry, a table-spoonful of brandy, a small piece of cucumber-peel, and a table-spoonful of noyeau or maraschino. A little balm and borage is an improvement to claret cup, but then there is generally considerable difficulty in obtaining them. Another capital claret cup is made by substituting an orange cut in slices for the two slices of lemon. Again, if no noyeau is at hand—and noyeau is an expensive liqueur—add a couple of drops of essence of almonds to the brandy. To every cup, of course, must be added one or two bottles of soda-water, and a large lump of pure ice. If good pure ice cannot be obtained, but only what is called rough ice, do not put any ice in the cup, but surround the cup with chopped ice mixed with salt, and you will very soon reduce its temperature quite as low, and, indeed, lower, than if a large piece of ice had been put in the cup itself. I would advise persons who use rough ice indiscriminately to melt a tumblerful, and then hold the glass up to the light. The lesson is very practical. _ Champagne cup is very simply made by adding either a slice or two of lemon or an orange cut in slices to a bottle of champagne as well as a bottle,of soda- water, a small liqueur glass of brandy, and a large lump of ice. Of course, just as it would be a terrible waste to use a bottle of Chateau Lafitte or Chateau Margaux claret to make a claret cup, so would it be equally wrong to use a bottle of first- class champagne, such as Pommery et fils, or Montebello Carte Blanche for champagne cup. Again, a rather sweet champagne makes a very good “cup,” as the ice and soda-water take off from the sweetness very considerably. It will be found, how- ever, for general purposes that some wines that are not strictly speaking champagne nevertheless make excellent “champagne cup.” We would call particular attention to a wine named Sparkling Saumur, which is now being sold at a retail price of 24s. a dozen. A bottle of this, and an orange sliced, avoiding the outside slices with too much peel on, as well as the pips, with a bottle or even two bottles of soda water, and a large lump of-ice, make a most refreshing summer drink. Indeed, I know of no kind of cheap champagne, at even 36s. a dozen, that will make so excellent a cup. Another very excellent champagne that does not come from the Champagne district is Cortaillod. This is madz in Switzerland; and a bottle has refreshed many PRINCIPLES—AUSTRALIAN WINES, xci a, weary traveller after a long walk’ in hes exquisite scenery of the district where it is made. There are, in my opinion, few wines that approach nearer to the pure juice of the grape than Swiss champagne; I think the retail price in this country is abet 36s, a dozen, ‘We now come t6 consider a class of wines that ‘is a a but little generally known in'this country, and that is Australian wine. Prejudice is a very difficult thing to overcome, and I fear it will be many years before the wines of that rapidly- rising country meet with the reception here that they so thoroughly deserve. -. ’ The subject, too, of Australian wines should be regarded from a broader view than merely a question of palate. We as a nation each year spend millions and millions of surplus capital—for wine is not really one of the necessaries of life—on encouraging the manufactures and agriculture of. France, Spain, Germany,. and Portugal, while, comparatively speaking, but a few thousands only go to increase .the wealth of @ country inhabited by our own flesh and blood, living under the same laws, and obeying and honouring the same Queen. '' Strange; too, to say, the Govern- ment of the mother country at present fails to recognise the claims Australian wines have—they being absolutely shut out even from a chance of holding their own in open competition, owing to their containing slightly more alcohol than the fixed ‘standard allows—consequently the extra duty that must necessarily be — takes away all chance of competition with the lighter French claret. There are an astonishing number of persons of real wealth who in the present ‘day buy nothing but the poor thin claret that can be bought at 12s. adozen. I have ‘no hesitation in saying that the majority of Australian wines are infinitely ‘superior to the cheap claret that we are unfortunately sometimes out of’ politeness compelled to drink. Again, it must be remembered that the cultivation of the vine in Australia is not matured like it is in France. If we contrast light claret with ‘Chateau Margaux we at once see how much depends upon care in cultivation and also in selection of the grape. The time will probably come when the wine trade of ‘Australia will be one of the greatest means of increasing the wealth of that country. We will now run hastily through a few of the principal kinds of wines that that country produces. - There are samples that correspond to Hock, Sherry, Burgundy, Claret, and Madeira: We will first take the kind that resembles hock. This is called Riesling ; it is a thin light’wine, sold in hock bottles, and is an exceedingly pleasant drink'in-summer, and is particularly suitable with boiled fish, or after light entrées, such as vol-au-vents. Highercombe is another wine resembling hock, or rather Haut Barsac or Sauterne. Highercombe is a strong-scented wine, and would ‘probably not be liked by those who are partial to an exceedingly dry sherry. ‘On the-other hand, when the taste for this wine has been acquired, it is generally very strongly fancied. -Sonie- of this wine mixed with a bottle of soda-water will be found a most refreshing drink. Another Australian wine very much resembling ‘hock is Gouais; this wine is something between hock and Sauterne, and, as it can be bought for 24s. a dozen, is well worth a trial. The next class of wines to which we would refer is the white Australian wines that. resemble sherry. First we will take Fairfield (amber). This wine very much resembles Cape Sherry, and is certainly inferior to ordinary good sherry ; it also has a slight resemblance to the “home-made wine one occasionally tastes at farmhouses that is made from, rhubarb. This wine is, however, very wholesome, and. probably after a time would be ivery palatable when the taste for it is once acquired. A very superior wine, however, is inet with in Verdeilho; this is made from vines resembling those in Madeira, and xcli CASSELL’S COOKERY. the wine, which can be bought for about 26s. a dozen, has a decidedly Madeira flavour, and is the best specimen of Australian white wine of the class corresponding to sherry and Madeira that we have met with. Shiraz is another wine resembling sherry, and costs about 24s. a dozen. Perhaps the most marked of the Australian wines, and the one that proves best how likely these wines are eventually to become better appreciated, is dry Muscat of Alexandria. This wine has the most beautiful bouquet that can be imagined, and its flavour resembles the first crush in the mouth of three or four fine ripe muscatel grapes—those large white oval ones covered with a light bloom, and attached to a clean thick stalk—yet, notwithstanding this exquisite bouquet and flavour, the wine is dry. Unfortunately, samples differ; the lighter the colour, however, the better the wine. This dry Muscat of Alexandria can be bought for about 30s. a dozen, or even cheaper, and, when the specimens are good, is well worth double the money. We would strongly advise connoisseurs and epicures to make a trial. A very delicious cup, superior to Moselle cup, can be made from this wine, by mixing it with soda-water, sugar, a few slices of lemon, and a lump of ice. This makes a eheap and very refreshing drink in summer. We next come to the Australian red wines, which, as a rule, will be found very superior to the white. The finest Australian red wine that I have ever tasted is called Carbenet. This fine wine has a most beautiful bouquet, resembling good Chateau Margaux claret. It resembles Burgundy in flavour, with perhaps a very slight port flavour added. Or it may be compared to a very dry Rousillon. This wine is very soft, and this, coupled with its rich-scented bouquet, entitles it to rank high among the Australian wines. Indeed, it is far superior to the general run of Burgundies and clarets that can be bought at the same price, which is about 36s. a dozen. Fairfield (ruby) is another red wine, somewhat resembling dry port. The bouquet of this wine is very inferior to Carbenet, and it has a rather dead taste, in which can be detected a slight flavour of raisins. Perhaps the next best wine to Carbenet is Mataro; this is also similar to a dry port or Burgundy; it has a good bouquet, and is well worth the price at which it is generally sold. Chaselas is a red wine, but is somewhat poor and acid. A better wine is Hermitage, whieh somewhat resembles the Hermitage made on the banks of the Rhone, and is pro- bably named after it. Avery peculiar Australian wine is made called Conatto; this is a rich liqueur, with a slightly medicinal flavour in it; its taste reminds one of rum shrub and curagoa, Again, it is sometimes like Constantia, and is probably made from the same kind of grapes that are used for Constantia. Red Albury is a scented wine resembling somewhat English home-made raisin wine, only it is better. It is a capital wine for children, and would suit those who like a sweet port. These are the chief wines of Australia, which, in our opinion, are destined in a few years’ time to become far better known than they are at present; and Englishmen on patriotic grounds should at any rate give Australian wines a trial, if their order does not extend beyond a single bottle. ‘We have now run through the principal wines drunk in this country, and have taken exceptional notice of Australian wine, which is but little known, owing to the fact of its being the only wine worthy of the name that is produced in the British dominions. Hungarian wine, Italian wine, Swiss wine, are all worth a trial, especially the former. We ought not, however, to forget to mention our national beverage—Beer! First, I do not wish to touch upon the point of making home-brewed beer—in PRINCIPLES—BEER, xciil fact, good beer can now be obtained so cheap in almost all parts of the country, that ale is now very rarely brewed at home. First, I would call attention to the importance of always having beer in cask; by so doing purity is generally ensured, and the bad custom of sending servants, especially women servants, to the public- house is avoided. Good, sound, excellent ale can always be got at threepence a - quart ; an eighteen-gallon cask costing 18s., and, indeed, very good beer can be bought in cask still cheaper. N ow, the beer sold in, I fear, too many public-houses, at the rate of threepence a quart, is adulterated, and often has the effect of increasing rather than allaying thirst. Were the general public to know the secret of the cheap public-house beer that has been doctored with not always such harmless ingredients as treacle and sugar, they would probably make greater efforts to obtain their beer direct from the brewery itself. The working poor are necessarily obliged to drink beer, and it is very much to be regretted that they so rarely have their beer in cask. The fact is, they have not sufficiently acquired habits of self-control, and too often a cask in the house proves a: temptation too strong’ to be resisted. On this subject, I recollect an occurrence some time ago that illustrates the difficulty to which I have alluded. A poor woman was exclaiming what a monstrous shame it would be to close all the public-houses on Sunday for the whole day, saying that the poor would have to go without any beer with their Sunday’s dinner, which, as a rule, was the only really comfortable meal they got. I asked what difficulty there would be in getting in a gallon jar of ale on Saturday night, which, if well-corked down, would keep well till the following day? her reply being— “Keep, sir! Lor’ bless you, my old man would never go to bed on Saturday night till he had finished it!” The argument was perfectly sound; and some men must. necessarily be treated like children. Indeed, it is as cruel to leave an opened bottle of gin in some persons’ way, who are as a rule perfectly honest, as it would be to leave a child three years old alone in a room with a pot of jam. One of the most important points to be remembered in the management of beer is to ensure its being bright. Beer should always be kept in a cool place, though in winter care should be taken that it is not exposed to too severe a frost. A cask of beer should always be ordered in at least a week before it is wanted, in order to give the beer time to settle. Beer is often allowed to get flat and dead through the carelessness of servants, who forget to put in the vent-peg; consequently a tap requiring no vent-peg is to be preferred. When a cask requires tilting, a very little common sense will often prevent the whole of the beer left in the cask from becoming cloudy. First, it will be found advisable to have a beer-stand that will tilt by simply turning a handle. However, when bricks or lumps of wood are used for the purpose, bear in mind to first choose your time: say you have drawn enough heer for supper, tilt the cask then, so that you have the benefit of the night’s settling. Too often, from carelessness and procrastination, servants will draw off the beer till the last drop runs level, and will then tilt the cask while they draw a jug full, letting the cask drop again, thereby clouding the whole of the remainder. Whenever you have room for two casks in your cellar, side by side, always act as follows. Have two casks in together, and directly one runs out tap the other, and on the same day order in afresh cask. By making a fixed rule of this description you will always ensure your ale being bright. With regard to bottled ale this same quality of brightness is even more important than ale on draught. The difference not merely in appearance but in taste between a bottle of Bass’s ale that sparkles like cham- xciv CASSELL’S COOKERY. pagne when held up against the light, and one that is thick and cloudy, is patent to every one. When kept for any length of time, beer should: be laid on its side, but to ensure the beer béing bright it only requires being ‘kept upright for a short time before it is opened, in a moderate temperature. If bottled ale is kept too warm it is too frothy, and by no means.invariably bright. On the other hand, beer exposed: to frost is sure to be thick. Bottled beer consequently in summer-time should: not be placed in an ice-chest, except for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour before it is opened to cool it, but not freeze it. When, therefore, you have bottled beer in quantities,,always stand six or eight bottles upright, and as these are used replace them by others. Good beer will generally get. bright in bottle if stood upright for a week, though a longer period should be allowed if the beer is only just brought in. In pouring out beer always have three ‘glasses ready together, so that you cari continue to pour without tilting back the bottle, as when this latter is done too often it will be found that the first glass.is the only one that is bright. ‘With regard to spirits, but little care is required in keeping them, as they are quite unaffected by variations of temperature, the greatest amount of cold failing to influence them. The only advice I would give you is—regard them as medicines rather than for every- day consumption, and recollect the remark of Adam, in “ As You Like It;” who accounted:for his vigour as follows :— ~ meas an : “Though I look old, yet I am strong and lusty, For in my youth I never did apply’ . Hot and rebellious liquors in my blood.” COOKERY AS A BRANCH OF EDUCATION. Before bringing these pages to a close, there is one subject remaining that demands our greatest attention, and that is this :—How far is it possible to impart. even an elementary knowledge of the principles of cookery to the poor and unedu- cated classes? There is probably no country in the world that has any pretensions to civilisation in which there is so profound an ignorance of even the rudiments of cookery as in our own. Indeed, the difference in the mode of life between a French family and an English one, in which say the goodwife in the former is allowed thirty francs and the latter-thirty shillings a-week for housekeeping purposes is something astounding. In the former there is comfort and even luxury, and, in addition, money is regularly saved ; whereas, in the latter, the week which commences with a hot dinner on Sunday usually terminates in the plainest kind of food, such as bread and dripping, and that too often obtained on credit.. Again, amongst the English poor it will be observed that there is scarcely any variety of food whatever. The hot dimer on Sunday is almost invariably the same. A bladebone of beef and a heap of baked potatoes cooked at that real poor man’s friend—the. baker’s oven: the usual charge for baking being twopence on Sundays and three-halfpence on week days. Week after-week the fare is the same—baked meat and baked potatoes: the one change coming with Christmas, and, like it, but once a year, when “the goose” takes-the place of the meat, the huge heap of sage and onions being placed in a saucer underneath the goose to catch the fat. Again, in sending a rice pudding to the baker's, the baker’s man is frequently obliged, to take out some of the rice, as otherwise the pudding would be so close as to be barely eatable, the rice having no room to swell. Sometimes a batter pudding is sent with the dish, so full of batter that it would be certain to overflow: when baked unless some were removed. . PRINCIPLES—COOKERY AS A BRANCH OF EDUCATION. xevVv Perhaps the greatest difficulty to be contended with is the rooted and unreason- able prejudice to be met with in some of the poor. They despise soup and fish, unless the latter be a bloater with their'tea. Great changes have, however, taken place lately in regard to education, which is now compulsory, and the young girl who a few years back was the mother’s chief help in household duties, is now, at any rate for a certain number of days, compelled to attend a school. In all these schools needlework forms part of the régular routine of ‘school duty, but not cooking. It should, however, be borne in mind that it is quite as important for the future wives of the poorer classes’to ‘be able to cook’ their husbands” and children’s food as’ to make or mend their clothes. Now, hitherto in almost every poor family in ‘the: kingdom, the eldest girl has been kept at home to assist her mother, and what little knowledge she possesses of cooking is thus handed down by tradition.. Now, how- ever, these home lessons are necessarily limited to Saturday and Sunday. What a wonderful ‘effect, however, it would have on the future generation were each child— ie, each girl—properly instructed by some competent teacher in ‘the elements: of domestic economy! Unfortunately, at present it will be found that girls who have shown ability at school, and who are often made pupil teachers—girls who can write a hand néarly like a lady, and play a Jitle on the ‘piano, and who are fondvof reading serial tales in their leisure, too often rather despise household work ; and often it will be found in a family where there is more than one girl that one sister will cook and scrub, while the other—who prides herself somewhat on her “ gentility,” as those sort of people call it—looks out for a business that is light and fanciful, such as millinery. Suppose, however, the girls get married in their own station of life, which would make the best wife of these two sisters? We trust the School Board will in time realise the fact that it is at any rate as important for a girl to know how to make an Irish stew as to be capable of playing an Irish jig. It is only first-class cooks who realise the first principles of cookery, viz., cleanliness and economy, and it is on these points that the poor chiefly break down; indeed, we have already called attention to the want of cleanliness on the part of cooks, that takes place not so much from indolence as ignorance. How often do we have an omelet perfectly white, or rather yellowish-white, like we have them abroad? Do you know the reason of failure ? if not, go downstairs and learn, Take the frying-pan in your left hand, and a clean cloth in your right; hold the frying-pan over the fire for a few seconds till it is hot, and then wipe it with your cloth, and look at the cloth. Among the poor, however, the fat is allowed to get cold in the frying-pan, and the frying-pan is hung up, or rather put by, with the fat in it ready for next time; and, indeed, the same ‘thing is often done in houses where the mistress does not exercise proper and necessary supervision over her servants, Unfortunately our English kitchen utensils are, as a rule, so shaped that perfect cleanliness, such as is met with in France, is barely possible. The English enamelled stewpan is, however, quite equal to the tinned copper utensils of France for ordinary purposes, and in these vessels perfect cleanliness is, comparatively speaking, easy. But we shall refer to the shape of vessels at more length when we come to consider kitchen utensils, but would here say one word to housekeepers on jugs. Is it reason- able on your part to continue buying milk-jugs shaped bulb-like, with narrow necks, into which the hand cannot be inserted, and yet to express surprise that your milk is sometimes sour? I am perfectly aware that jug-brushes exist, but it is almost impossible to get servants to use them. With regard to economy, we have already explained we do not mean living - xevi CASSELL’S COOKERY. plainly, or even cheaply, but using up ail the material we have. There is no want of economy in the strictest sense of the word in giving broken victuals to the poor, provided we know they eat them. Want of economy is exemplified in giving a half. picked sirloin of beef-bone to the dog, in throwing the end in the pig-tub, or in leaving the ends of mutton chops and the bones half picked on the plate. Again, a fruitful source of waste, which is in reality a synonymous term for want of economy, is allowing, through carelessness, ignorance, or want of fore- thought, food of any description to get bad. For instance, forgetting in hot weather to warm up soup when it has been left, but is not required for the next day’s consumption ; or in leaving in sultry weather a joint of meat all night in a hot place, instead of preserving it by placing it in a cool larder or ‘ice-chest. Again, milk can often be preserved from turning sour for one night by the simple plan of boiling it, and pouring it into a clean jug. These and a hundred other simple methods by which food can be preserved, and thereby added to the wealth of the country, are principles of education that ought to form part of all elementary lessons now taught in schools. There is perhaps nothing that would so effect the future prosperity and greatness of our country than universally inculcating in the minds of the young throughout the length and breadth of the land the importance of economy of the necessaries of life. Our present teachers of the young have high responsibilities. It is not so much that a great multitude follow them as that a great multitude are driven unto them. Whatever differences may arise as to creed or no creed, surely all will unite in agreeing with the great Teacher that it is our duty to gather up the fragments that cemain, that nothing be lost. CASSELL’S Aberdeen Sandwiches.— Take two ounces of cold chicken and one ounce of cold ham ortongue. Cut them into small pieces and put them into a stewpan with two table-spoon- fuls of good sauce and a table-spoonful of curry paste. Simmer gently for a few minutes, stir- ring all the time, then turn the mixture into a ‘basin to cool. Cut some slices of stale bread about the eighth of an inch in thickness, stamp them in rounds about the size of a penny, and fry them in boiling oil till they are lightly browned. Place them on some blotting-paper to drain off the oil, and spread the mixture thickly on one of the rounds, placing another on the top, until all are used. Put them into a quick oven for a few minutes; arrange them prettily on a dish, and serve hot. The remains of fish and game may be used in a similar manner. Time to bake, five minutes. Pro- bable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 1s. Five or six should be allowed for each person. Aberfrau Cakes.—Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream, with half a pound of pounded loaf sugar, adding slowly half, a pound of fine flour. Roll out thin, and cut in circles about the size of a teacup; impress with a shell or other ornament, and bake quickly for fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 1g. 2d. Abernethy Biscuits.—Rub one ounce of butter into one pound of the best flour, adding a dessert-spoonful of sugar and half an ounce of caraway seeds. Mix all together with two eggs, and, if necessary, a little milk. Roll the batter out, knead it into small round cakes, making holes with a fork to allow the steam to escape, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, éd. Sufficient for eight biscuits. Acha.—Take four capsicums and half a large Spanish onion, with as much salt and lemon-juice as may be required to suit the palate, and pound all together thoroughly in a mortar. Acha for Fish.—Thoroughly boil a small Piece of salt fish, cut an onion and a few cap- sicums into very small pieces, and add a little vinegar: pound all well together, and make into a. purée. Acid Ice for Puddings, Tarts, &c. —Strain the juice of a large lemon, add. to it three ounces of sifted sugar, and the whites of 1—nN.E. - . COOKERY. four eggs beaten to a firm froth. Pile this over the pudding after it is cooked, and return it to the oven for a few minutes to stiffen. Time to bake, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for a pudding for four or five persons. Acidulated Alkali—Blend thoroughly two ounces of carbonate of soda, two ounces of tartaric acid, and a quarter of a pound of pow- dered loaf sugar. Flavour with essence of lemon. Keep the mixture in a. bottle, well corked, and, when required, stir a tea-spoonful briskly into a tumbler three parts full of water, and drink during effervescence. Probable cost, a halfpenny per glass. Acidulated Alkali (another wey) Grate the rind of two lemons upon four ounces of loaf sugar, pound it, and mix it thoroughly with two ounces of bicarbonate of soda and two ounces of tartaric acid. Bottle it, cork it closely, and keep in a dry place. A small tea-spoonful stirred briskly into half a tumblerful of water will make a pleasant draught, and it should be drunk during effer- vescence. Time to prepare, half an hour. Probable cost for this quantity, 6d. Acidulated Drops.—Clarify some sugar as follows: to every two pounds of sugar allow one pint of water and the white of one egg ; put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and stir them over the fire until the former is thoroughly dissolved; add the white of the egg, and boil, skimming constantly until the syrup looks quite clear. Remove it from the fire, strain it, and return it to the saucepan. Mix with it tartaric acid or lemon-juice, according to taste, and let all boil together until the syrup crackles when put into cold water. Have ready a well- oiled dish, and drop the sugar as regularly and quickly as possible into it. If there is any appearance of the- syrup boiling over, two or three drops of oil, or a little cold water, may be put in. ‘Time to prepare, about half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. _Acidulated Drops (another way).—Boil a pound and a half of sugar with a pint of water and three tea-spoonfuls of tartaric acid until it is brittle; then drop it from the point of a knife upen an oiled slab or dish. In order to ascertain when the sugar is sufficiently boiled, dip a stirring stick into the syrup, and drop some of itinto cold water; when it stiffens and snaps ACI (2) ALB immediately it is sufficiently done; but great care must be taken that the fire is not too strong, and that the sugar does not boil over or burn. If there is any danger of this, a small piece of butter may be thrown in. Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost for this quantity, 10d. Acidulated. Lemonade. — To three pints.of boiling water add four ounces of fresh lemon-juice, half an ounce of thin lemon-peel freshlyécut, and four ounces of ‘finely-powdered loaf sugar. When cold, strain through a jelly- bag. If not wanted immediately, it must be bottled and carefully corked. Acidulated Pudding.—Take the thin rind of three lemons and two Seville oranges, with a quarter of a. pound of sugar: place them in a bowl with a pint of boiling water, and let them remain about an hour and. a half; then ‘remove the rinds, and add the, juice of the lemons. Put three or four slices of sponge- cake into a glass dish, and strain the liquid over them; let’them soak till they have ab- sorbed the syrup, then pour over them a good custard, and strew a little pink sugar over the top. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. . Acorn Coffee..—In Germany “acorn coffee”’ is used; and , greatly liked, as a sub- stitute for ordinary coffee, and is considered to be very strengthening for consumptive people and delicate children. The acorns are gathered in autumn when they: are ripe, shelled, and, after being cut into: pieces of the sizé of coffee- berries, ‘they’ are thoroughly dried in: front of the fire, or in a cool oven. They are then roasted like ordinary ‘coffee, until they become a cinnamon-brown colour. Immediately after roasting, the acorns are ground ‘or pounded in a‘mortar,'to prevent their becoming ‘tough. - Whilst the’ coffee is being ground or pounded, a very little butter is added, and the coffee is then placed in air-tight bottles. For children: prepare in the same way as ordinary’ coffee, using a quarter of an ounce to a pint of water, ‘adding ‘milk and sugar to taste. Young chil- dren should take it with two or three parts of milk. For adults: half an ounce of the coffee may be used to.4 pint of water. Acorn ‘coffee and ordinary coffee are frequently mixed, and ‘ the decoction is found very palatable. In their raw state, acorns are known to be powerfully astringent, but they lose this quality in the process of roasting. In some respects acorn coffee is preferable to coffee proper, having none of the drying properties attributed to the latter. : . Adelaide: Pudding. — Put a pint of water and the thinly-peeled rind and juice of a lemon into a saucepan. Bring it slowly to a boil; then take it off the fire and stir into it, while hot, six ounces of butter and’ a ‘cupful of sugar; mix with it, very gradually and smoothly, half a pound of flour; let it' cool; add six well-beaten eggs and:a téa-spoonful of ‘baking-powder. Half fill some buttered cups, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, about half an hour. Sufficient: for one dozen‘ cups. “Probable ¢ostyIs.4d. 0° ts Adelaide Sandwiches.—Cut up cold chicken and ham in small squares, in the pro- portion of two-thirds of chicken to one-third of ham. Next place two large table-spoonfuls of sauce and one of c paste in a stewpan, and when they boil add the chicken and ham, mixing all well together. Prepare thin slices of stale bread, cut in small circles, by frying them in clarified butter. Spread the prepared ehicken‘and ham slightly between two slices of the bread.. Upon the ‘top of each. sgndwich Place a ball, about the size of a walnut, and composed of grated Parmesan cheese and butter in equal parts, kneaded into a paste. Place the sandwiches on a baking-cloth, bake for five minutes in a brisk oven, dish up on a napkin, and serve as a second-course savoury dish. » . Admiral’s Sauce.—Make half a pint of melted butter, and put into it one tea-spoonful ‘of chopped capers, three or four shallots chopped, two’ pounded anchovies, and a little ‘thin lemon-rind. Let all simmer gently; add pepper, salt,'and the juice of a lemon, and serve in @ tureen. Time to simmer, till the ‘anchovies are dissolved. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Agnew Pudding.—Pare and core eight russets, and boil them toa pulp with the rind of half a lemon. Beat up the yolks of three .eges, and add to them three ounces of mélted butter ; sweeten to taste, and beat all together. Line a pudding-dish with puff paste, pour in the mixture, and bake until it becomes a light -brown colour. Time to bake, thirty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Albany Cakes.— Lightly beat’ six eggs, and stir them into a quart of milk; add a tea- spoonful each of bicarbonate of soda and. salt, dissolved in a little hot water. Stir in sufficient fine flour to make a thick batter. Butter small tins the size of a tea-saucer, and half fill them with the mixture. Bake them in a quick oven. ‘This makes very nice cakes, which are much used for breakfast in America. Time to, bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. _ Albemarle Pudding.—Take:a quarter of a pound of sweet and three or four bitter almonds; blanch and pound them; being careful not to let them oil. Beat four eggs and add to them their weight in sifted sugar; whisk them over the fire till the sugar is melted, then pour them out at once; let them get cold; and then stir in the almond paste.. Beat altogether to a froth, and while in this state put the mixture into a well-oiled. tin, and bake,.immediately. Time to bake, half an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 1s. _ Albert Cake or Biscuits. — Take the yolks of twelve eggs and the whites of two, and beat them up with ten ounces of pounded sugar and eight ounces of finely - chopped almonds, for twenty minutes. Whisk the remaining whites of the eggs, and’ mix with them six ounces of flour, two ounces of finely- shred candied orange-peel, a tea-spoonful of cinnamon powder, ‘half a tea-spoonful of ‘ground cloves, and a little grated lemon-rind. Mix all ‘thoroughly: together, ‘and pour the s ALB (3) ALE batter into a convenient sized mould, and bake in an oven with a moderate heat for about an hour. When done, and euficiently cold, ‘cut CAKE MOULD. into ‘thin slices ready: for serving. Albert biscuits: may be also baked in small tins. or moulds, which should be buttered and floured. Probable cost, 28. 6d. Sufficient for a quart mould. -: se Albert Pudding.—Beat six ounces of butter autte thin, then gradually mix with it five well-beaten eggs, half a pound of flour, and sixdunces of loaf sugar on which the rind of a lemon has been grated; add half a pound of stoned raisins, and place the entire mixture in a:mould which has been well buttered and lined & ALBERT PUDDING, with’glices and stars made of citron, peel, and figs; ‘Tie it up closely, “and steam or boil it for at ‘least-three hours. Serve it with good mélted butter, flavoured with lemon and brididy. Sufficient, for six persons. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive: of brandy. . Albert Pudding (another way).—Well beat two ounces of butter to,a cream, and stir. into it the yolks of three eggs... Add gradually three-qunces of sugar, two ounces of flour, two ounces of bread-crumbs, quarter of a: pound of sultana raisins, and the whites of the, eggs, well whisked. Pour into. a buttered mould, cover with an_oiled paper and. a, cloth, and steam it. Serve with wine sauce. ‘Time to steam, three hours. Probable cost,, 1s. Sufficient for, four persons. Song ini. .Albert?s (Prince) Pudding.—Lay the thin..zind, of a-lemon: over half a pound of crumbled. Savoy .cake,'and: pour over them half apint of boiling milk; add good-pinch of salt, | the:yolks. of four eggs;and the whites of two, together with a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, Pour the whole, when well, mixed, into a-buttéred mould, and steam it for nearly an hour. A little jam served with this pudding is an improvement. Sufficient forfour per 5 Probable cost, 1s. 8d. ee Alderman’s Pudding. — Pour three pints of boiling milk over six table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and soak for half an hour... Shred finely six ounces of firm beef suet; mix: with it a heaped table-spoonful of stoned raisins and another of currants; adda little sugar and grated nutmeg, and the rind of half a lemon chopped finély. “Mix these ingre- dients together with five eggs well beaten, Line the edges of a shallow pie-dish ‘with good crust, place the pudding in it, andbake. It is , also very nice’ steamed. Time to bake, forty minutes; to steam, two ‘hours, Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost, 28. ° ‘ Ale-Berry.—Soak two large spoonfuls of oatmeal groats.in a little water for an hour, strain the liquor, and add to it half'a pint of boiling beer or porter; pour the mixture into a saucepan, and boil it; grate a little whole ginger into. it, and any seasoning which may be ‘pre- ferred; sweeten it to taste. Time, ten minutes: to boil. Sufficient for one person. Probable cost, 6d. . Seis Phe aca ; ' Ale Cup.—Squeeze the juice of a lemon into a round of hot toast; lay on ib a thin piece of the rind, a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, a little grated nutmeg or powdered all- spice, and a sprig of balm. Pour over these one glass of brandy, two of sherry, and three pints of mild'ale. Do not allow the’ balm to renidin many minutes.’ Sufficient for ‘five or six persons. Probable cost, 2s. Ale, Draught (to keep in good condi- tion).—Keep:the ale in a cool, dry, well-venti- lated ‘cellar, with a temperature of from fifty to-sixty degrees. If allowed to fall below fifty degrees the appearance of the beer may be spoilt; if it rises above sixty or sixty-five degrees it may turn sour. Place the cask firmly and securely on its ‘stand, and leave it undisturbed for the first twenty-four hours, as if drawn too soon the beer may never brighten at all. Leave the vent-peg loose for twelve hours after the ale is placed on its stand, and. then if if has ceased to effervesce, but not unless, drive it in tightly. If the ale is not to be used. immediately loosen the vent for three or four minutes each day. With this exception the vent may be left’untouched, as if too much air is lét into the barrel the ale will become flat. When itis necessary to tilt'the, barrel, raise it steadily at the back end and fasten it securely, go that it need not afterwards be disturbed. It. may then: be ‘drawn off, and remain good until the very-last.. As soon as a cask. is empty cork it up at once, or it will become foul. Ale Flip.—Put into a sducépan three pints. of ale, a table-spoonful of sugar, blade of mace, a clove, and a small piece of butter, and bring the liquid to a boil. Beat the white of one egg and the yolks of two thoroughly, mixing with them a. table-spoonful of cold ale. Mix all together, and then pour. the. whole rapidly from one large jug to another, from,a good height, for some minutes, fo froth it thoroughly, but do ALE (4) ALM not allow it to get cool. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Ale or Porter Jelly.—Prepare calf's- feet jelly in the ordinary way, but instead of using wine take the same proportion of porter or ale. Though this is sometimes recom- mended in illness, for ordinary purposes wine is much to be preferred in the making of caif’s-feet jelly. Ale Posset.—Boil a pint of new milk and pour it over a slice of toasted bread. Stir in the beaten yolk of an egg, and a piece of butter the size of a nutmeg, and sugar to taste. Mix these with a pint of hot ale, and boil for a few minutes. When the scum rises it is sufficiently ready. Time, five minutes to boil. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Ale, To Mull.—Put half a pint of ale, a’ clove, a little whole ginger, a piece of butter the size of a small marble, and a tea-spoonful of sugar, into a saucepan, and bring it to boiling point. Beat two eggs with a table-spoonful of cold ale, and pour the boiling ale into them, and then intoa large jug. Pass the whole from one jug into another for some minutes, and at a good height. Return it to the saucepan and heat it again, but do not allow it to boil. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Suffi- cient for one person. Ale, with Cheese.—Crumble about a quarter of a pound of Cheshire or Gloucester cheese, and put it into a saucepan with a small tea-spoonful of sugar, another of mustard, and enough ale to cover it. Let it remain on the fire until thoroughly melted, stirring all the time, and then add the yolk of an egg. Serve it on a very hot dish, and stick all over it little sippets of toasted bread, or pieces of pulled bread. Time to prepare, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Allemand Sauce.—Put into a saucepan one pint of white stock, with a little salt, six mushrooms, a thin’ strip of lemon-peel, and a little parsley. Let it boil, then draw it to the side of the fire, and allow it to simmer slowly for half an hour or more. Thicken it with a little flour, let it boil for a few minutes, and strain. Add the beaten yolks of three eggs, and replace it on the fire. Stir it constantly, and make it thoroughly hot; but it must not hoil up again, or the sauce will be spoiled. When off the fire, stir a little butter into it, end the juice of half a lemon. Probable cost, 1s. ‘sufficient for a pint of sauce. Allemand Sauce (another way).— Put into a saucepan two ounces of butter. When melted, stir in briskly a dessert-spoonful of tlour and half a pint of white stock, or failing that, water. Add a little lemon-peel, salt and pepper to taste, a small lump of sugar, an onion, and a little nutmeg. Let all simmer by the side of the fire for a little while, then strain. Alix with the sauce half a cupful of milk or cream, and the yolk of one egg; put it on the fire once more, and stir it briskly till it thickens. It must not boil. Add a little lemon- juice. Time, forty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three-quarters of a pint of sauce. j Allspice, Essence of.—Pour two drachms of oil of pimento very gradually into three ounces of spirits of wine, and let-it stand for a few minutes. Put it into a bottle and cork it closely. or six drops will flavour a pint. Allspice, Tincture of.—Put two ounces of powdered allspice into a bottle with one pint of brandy. Let it soak fora fortnight, shaking it up every three days. Pour it into another bottle, leaving the sediment, and cork it closely. Half a tea-spoonful will flavour a pint. Pro- bable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 4d. Almack’s Preserve.—Take two dozen plums, one dozen apples, and one dozen pears: split the plums and take the stones out, pare and core the apples and pears, and place all the fruit in alternate layers in a deep jar. Place the jar in the oven, in a shallow dish containing boiling water. When the fruit is well mixed, put + pound of sugar to every pound of fruit, and pour the whole into a preserving-pan. Stir constantly, and boil for forty minutes or more, or until the mixture thickens. Pour it out, and cut into slices ready for use. Time, four to six hours. Probable cost, 3s. Seasonable from August to October. Almond Cake, Plain.— Blanch and pound in a mortar three ounces of sweet almonds and seven or eight bitter almonds. Rub the rind of a lemon upon four ounces of loaf sugar, and pound this with the almonds. Add the yolks of four eggs well beaten, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Work in a quarter of a pound of fine flour, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten to a solid froth. Put into a well-buttered mould, and bake in a good oven. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. Almond Cake, Rich.— Blanch and pound in a mortar very thoroughly eight ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almgnds. Add six table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar and eight eggs well beaten. Dry before the fire six table- spoonfuls of fine flour, and -work this in with the rest. The rind of a lemon finely-grated will be an improvement. Beat a quarter of a pound of sweet butter to a cream, and add the mixture gradually. Great care should be taken to keep on beating lightly during the whole process of making the cake, or it will be heavy. Put the mixture into a well-buttered mould, allowing room for the cake to rise, and bake it in « quick oven, but do not allow it to ro Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Almond Cakes (or Macaroons).— Blanch and pound six ounces of sweet almonds with one pound of sifted sugar. Add the whites of six eggs thoroughly whisked, two ounces of ground rice, and a table-spoonful of brandy. Beat all well together, and drop the mixture in small quantities on wafer-paper, leaving a little distance between each. Bake in a mo- derate oven. It is best to bake one little cake first, andif itis at all heavy toadd a little more Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Five | ALM white of egg. Place a strip of blanched al- mond in the middle of each cake, and do not _let them bake too brown. Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Almond Candy (or Hardbake).— Boil one pound of sugar and half a pint of ' water until it becomes brittle when dropped in cold water; then add a quarter of » pound of almonds blanched and split, the juice of half a Jemon, and one ounce of butter. Boil until the candy hardens at once in the water. Pour it out on a well-oiled dish. When cold, it may be taken off the plate and kept for use in a tin box. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 7d. Almond Cheesecakes.—Blanch - and pound four ounces of sweet and five or six bitter almonds with a few drops of water ; add a quarter of a pound of sugar rubbed with lemon-rind, a spoonful of cream, a small piece of butter, and the whites of two eggs thoroughly TARTLET-TINS. whisked. Mix, and fill small tartlet-tins, lined with puff paste, and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Almond Chocolate Drops.— Put a metal mortar in a hot oven till it is well heated, throw into it a quarter of a pound of cake chocolate, broken into small pieces; pound it to a paste, then mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted sugar. Blanch, slice, and dry in a cool oven, two ounces of sweet almonds; roll each slice smoothly in a little of the choco- late paste, and put them upon sheets of writing- paper till they are cold. Time to prepare, about one hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a pound of drops. Almond Creams.—Blanch and pound five ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds to a paste; put to this loaf sugar to taste, rubbed with lemon-rind, and pounded. Rub smoothly a dessert spoonful of corn-flour into a quart of milk, or if it is to be had use a pint and a half of cream; add the yolks of three eggs well beaten. Put the whole, when well mixed, into a saucepan, set it on the fire, and stir constantly until it thickens; but on no account allow it to boil. The whites of the eggs may be whisked, and a little placed on the top of each glass. Time, about ten minutes to boil the cream. Probable cost, with milk, Ig. 8d. Sufficient for a dozen custard-glasses. Almond Cream Ice. — Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet almonds with a tea-spoonful of rose-water and a. little loaf sugar ; add gradually a quart of cream, and boil gently for a few minutes. Let it cool slowly, and place it in the ice-pail. Serve with sponge- cakes. Time to freeze, about half an hour. Pe cost, 3s. 6d., with cream at 1s. 6d. per pint. (5) »four eggs. ALM Almond Croquantes. — Blanch and pound half a pound of sweet almonds, with half a pound of sugar rubbed on the rind of half a lemon, and a glass of white wine. Add a quarter of a pound of butter and the yolks of _ Mix all into a stiff paste, roll out, cut it into diamonds, stars, &c., and bake these in a quick oven. Dip them for a minute into boiling sugar, and let them drain until cool. Keep them in a dry place, and they will be useful to garnish any kind of sweet dish. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 10d. : Almond Custard.—Place in a saucepan over the fire a pint of new milk or cream, with a few lumps of sugar rubbed on the rind of a lemon, a piece of cinnamon, and four bitter almonds. Let it simmer gently for ten minutes. Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet almonds, with a little rose-water to prevent oiling. Mix the ingredients well together, and add the yolks of four eggs, well beaten. Stir the custard gently over a moderate fire until it thickens, but on no account allow it to boil; and pour into glasses. Probable cost, made with milk, 9d. Sufficient for six or seven glasses. Almond Custard (another way).—Blanch and pound half a pound of sweet and five or six bitter almonds, and add a table-spoonful of rose or orange-water to prevent oiling. Mix gra- dually with this a pint of cream, half a pint of milk, the yolks of six eggs, well beaten, and a little sugar. Stir the custard over the fire gently tillit thickens, or it may be baked in cups, if pre- ferred. Time, ten minutes to boil. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for nine or ten glasses. Almond Darioles.—Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Mix with it the same weight of flour, a heaped table-spoonful of sugar, half a pint of milk and half a pint of cream, four well-whisked eggs, and a little chopped lemon-peel. Mix all well together, and then add, a drop at a time, a little essence of almond, to suit the taste; too much of the essence will make the dish disagreeable. Stir over the fire for ten minutes. Line dariole moulds with tartlet paste, fill them three parts with the batter, and bake in a quick oven until the pastry is sufficiently ready. Turn the darioles out of the moulds, strew sifted sugar over them, and serve. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Sufficient to fill about half a dozen dariole moulds. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Almond Diamonds.— Blanch and pound six ounces of sweet almonds; add six ounces of finely-sifted sugar, and mix them to a stiff paste with some white of egg. Strew a little sugar on the board, and roll out the paste to the thickness of a penny-piece, then stamp it into diamonds with a pastry-cutter. Bake in a cool oven, and when cold, brush them over with a little syrup, strew sugar over them, and dry.them in the oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for about two dozen diamonds. Almond-Dust, Burnt.—This is made by pounding any quantity of blanched sweet almonds, which have been thoroughly browned ALM in a moderate oven. This dust is chiefly used for garnishing cakes and sweet dishes. Rae Almond Flummery.—Cover. one ounce of gelatine with water; let it stand, half an hour, then pour upon it a, pint, and a half of boiling milk or cream. that: hag been. . flavoured with one ounce of sweet and: one . ounce of bitter almonds which .have been previously blanched and pounded, and eight or nine lumps of sugar—in the lump, for fear of dust—on which a little lemon has been rubbed. Stir the mixture occasionally till cool, to pre- vent a scum forming. Strain it carefully. Pour it ‘into a mould which has been wetted with cold water, and let it stand until quite firm. If liked, isinglass may be used instead of gelatine. Probable cost, if made with milk, 1s. ' Suf- ficient for a quart mould, which will be enough tor six or eight persons. ee a ‘Almond Fritters.—Blanch and pound: two ounces of sweet almonds with a little water: mix them gradually in one pint of new milk or cream with two table-spoonfuls of ground rice and.the well-beaten yolks of four, eggs, and the whites of two. Sweeten according to taste. Melt two ounces of butter in the frying-pan, and, when hot, fry the mixture a | spoonful at a time. Stir it well till it is a golden- brown. Cover it with sifted sugar. . Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost, if made with milk, ls. Sufficient for three or four: persons. is i sae Almond Gauffres.—Mix a table-spoonful of fine flour with ‘a little sugar, the rind of a lemon chopped ‘snall,‘and two eggs. ‘When thoroughly mixed, add to them four ounces of blanched and. finely - sliced sweet -almonds. . Make a baking-tin quite hot, and oil it well. Spread the mixture on it very thin, and, bake it in a moderate oven until slightly coloured. Take it out and stamp it in rounds, and fold ' ‘eath over a reed.in the shape of a small horn. | This must be done while they are hot, and great care must be taken not to break: them. Fill them with a little bright-coloured. jam,and put them in a hot place to dry. Probable cost, 1s. . : ee Almond Gingerbread.— Melt half. a. pound of ‘treacle with two table-spoonfuls of butter, and add'to them two table-spoonfuls of flour and two of ground rice, a small cupful of sugar, a little chopped lemon and candied peel. When-these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, put to them a quarter of a pound of almonds: blanched ‘and pounded: - Beat -well together for a few minutes, then bake in small cakes on a well-oiled tin. The oven must not be hot. Time to bake, forty minutes. Probable ¢ost, 1s. 6d. per pound ite Almond Icing for Cakes. — Blanch one pound of sweet almonds and eight bitter almonds. Pound them in a mortar to a smooth. paste, and drop in once or twice during. the, process a very little orange-flower water,, Add to them one pound of sifted sugar, and as much. white of egg as will make a soft stiff paste. When all are well mixed together, lay: the icing on the top of the cake, already baked, a little more than half an inch thick, as smoothly. (6) ALM and’ evenly as possible. Put it itt-a cool’ place to'dry. The'sugar icing goes ver this. “Lime to dry,’ about one day. | Probable cost of almonds, 1s. to 2s. 6d. _per pound. Me Almond Jelily.—Put one ounce and a half of best isinglass,a quart of water, a little sugar, and a quarter of a pound. of blanched and pounded almonds into a. saucepan. -Let them boil half an hour. Strain the liquid care- fully through a.jelly-bag, flavour it with a. little brandy, and pour it into a wet mould. If calf’s- foot stock is used; the almonds'should be ‘boiled witha little sugar and water separately ‘for. some time, to extract the flavour, then the liquid mixed with the stock, and all boiled up together again, with a téa-spoonful of isinglass to a quart of stock. “Time, an hour and a half. ‘Probable cost, 28., without the’ brandy. Sufficient for a moderate-sized mould. : : ye . Almond Jumbles.—Work two ounces of butter into half a pound of flour, then add two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, a little lemon-juice, and two ounces of sweet and four or five bitter almonds, blanched and beaten to a paste, with the white of an egg. Mix thoroughly, roll. it out rather thin, cut into small round cakes, place them .on well-oiled tins, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, ten minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. per pound. Almond Méringues.—Whisk the whites of four eggs to the firmest; possible froth, and mix slightly with them « quarter of a pound of sifted sugar. Have ready some pieces of writing-paper fastened upon a board, to’ pre- vent the méringues being too much coloured at the bottom, and drop them upon it in the form of a half egg. Sprinkle some finely -shréd almonds over them, and upon this a little coarsely-sifted sugar. Place them in a covl oven, and, when they are firm, take them out, scoop out a little of the inside, place them on clean’ paper, upside down, and’ return’ them to the oven, and when they ‘are crisp through they are done. When ready to-serve, place _ almond cream inside, and join' them together * with the white of an egg. Time to bake, half an heur. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small dish. Almond Milk.—Blanch und pound four ounces of sweet and six bitter almonds to a paste, adding a few drops of: orange- flower-water évery' now and then, ‘to prevent oiling. “Add a quart of cold water, ‘and let dt : stand: two or three hours, then: strain ‘and. bdttle for use. : A table-spoonful of ‘brandy may‘ be | added if liked. When ‘wanted, 2 little water . must be mixed with the’ milk, and’ sweetened, and it will be found to be a very-refreshing | beverage for feverish patients. - Time, four hours. Probable cost, 4d: . quart of milk. 4 ‘Sufficient for a Almond Nougat.— Blanch aa . chop | roughly six ounces: of sweet) andi five bitter almonds, and. put. them in'a cool.oven till they are slightly browned. Pat threb ounces of sifted sugar into a saucepan, and when it is dissolved throw in the dlmonds, and’mix ‘all: together for a.few minutes. The.almonds -must’ be: hot when they are put into the saucepan. Spread ALM (7) ALM the paste about a quarter of an inch. thick, quickly arid evenly on’ a well-oiled slab, cut it into fingets, strew some small white comfits over these, and arrange them in a pile. Or, the nougat may’ be spread on a well-ciled pie- dish, and when it has; taken: the form, turned upon a dish. The nougat should be made and moulded as quickly as possible, or it will harden. Probable cost, 9d., for. this quantity. Sufficient for a small dish. , Almond Omelet.—Beat four eggs with a little milk for a minute or more. Have ready as are) sweet almonds as may be wished, blanched and pounded. Put into ‘an omelet- pan a piece of, butter the size of a large egg; let it be quite hot, but not browned; pour in the mixture, stirring it gently until it begins to set. ‘Then arrange it nicely, lay the pounded almonds on the top, and double the omelet over, to cover the almonds completely. Keep shaking the. pan, and add alittle butter if it seems likely to,stick. When it is a nice golden-brown, place. it on a hot dish, and cover with a little sifted’ sugar. . ‘Time, five minutes to fry. Probable cost, 7d.. . Sufficient for two, persons.. - Almond Paste (To Make Quickly). —Pound as many onds as are required, moistening with white of egg to prevent oiling, and then roll them with a rolling-pin until they are smooth. They will be nicer if they have been kept in a warm place. This quickly-made. almond paste is very useful for garnishing pastry. Almond Pastry.—Blanch rose-water. Add to them gradually four ounces of loaf sugar and an equal weight of fine flour. Stir in the well-whisked whites of two eggs, and roll out on a pastry-board. Stamp out any pretty shapes that may be’ fancied; bake in a: moderate oven, and keep in 4 dry place in a tin box to ornament sweet dishes of any descrip- tion. Time to bake, eight or nine minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Almond Pudding, Boiled.—Blanch and pound with a little water three ounces of sweet and four or five bitter almonds; add a pint of new milk, sugar to taste, a little nutmeg, a table-spoonful of -flour mixed smoothly, a, table-spoonful of grated bread-crumbs, two eges well beaten, and lastly, the whites of two. eggs whisked to a froth. Pour the mixture into & well-buttered mould, and steam gently till the pudding is set. out. Probable’cost, 1s. Sufficient for four persons, ° : Almond Pudding, Jewish.—Put four ounces, of sweet almonds, and three bitter ones, into a saucepan of cold r ally, and when too hot to bear the fingers put the almonds into a basin; slip off the skins, and throw them at once into cold water. Dry them well, and pound them in’a mortar until they forin a smooth paste; drop a tea-spoonful of cold' water over them two or thrée times to prevent them ‘oiling. Mix with them ‘four ouricés' of powdered loaf sugar, and add two table-spoonfuls of rose water, together with the and pound to. a paste three ounces of almonds and a little |. When done, let: it stand for a few minutes before turning || water. Heat it gradu- , | that’ quantity of new milk. yolks of four, and the whites of three, eggs well-beaten. Stir briskly for ten minutes, pour into: a well-oiled mould, and bake in a quick oven. Turn the pudding out of the dish beforé serving, and pour round it’ a thick syrup, flavoured with the rind and! juice of # lemon; and coloured with cochineal. -Tinie, half’ an hour to bake. Probable cost, 10d.’ Sufficient for three or four persons. '"" ' ee Almond Pudding, Plain.—Soak three table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbsin. milk. ‘Add four ounces of blanched. and. pounded almonds, a piece of butter the size ‘of an egg melted in a pint of new milk; sugar:to taste, a.tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, a scrape of nutmeg,.and three eges well beaten.: A glass:of sherry or raisin wine. may be, added. Place ‘in. a'-pie-dish lined with paste; and bake. in a moderate oven. Time, half an hour: Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Enough for-three or four persons. . ' Almond Pudding, Rich.—Blanch and beat. to a paste a.quarter of a pound of sweet -almonds and five or six bitter ones, with..a little water to prevent oiling ; add. a little sugar rubbed on lemon-rind, a. piece of butter the size of an egg, melted. with a glass of warm cream, five eggs well bedten, alittle nutmeg, and a glass of sherry. Put the mixture into'a pie+dish and bake in a mioderate oven, or put it Into-buttered cups, and turn out. Serve with ‘sweet sauce. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable:. cost, 28. 4d. © Sufficient: for four persons. ne Almond Pudding. (another - way)..— Line a pie-dish with puff paste. Blanch and, pound half a :pound of sweet almonds with a little orange-water. Add a.quarter of a pound of melted. butter, three table-spoonfuls of cream,. the rind and juice of a lemon, four eggs well. ‘beaten; and a little brandy. Mix all together,, ‘put it in the. dish, and bake in a moderate, oven. Serve with. brandy sauce. : Time ,to -bake, halfian hour. Probable’ cost, 2s. 4d., Sufficient for four persons. - ze Almond Puffs.—Blanch and pound: two ouhees of sweet almonds with a little water. Add ‘two'table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted'sugar, two ounces of dlavified butter, two table-spoon-’ fuls' of flour. “When. these are thoroughly mixed, add'the beaten yolks of two eggs; and, ‘a cupful of cream. ‘Well, oil about a dozen, yl ca PATTY-PANSi |: ‘ s nd half fill them’ wiin the mix-' og Peake a a moderate oven for half an _ hour.’ Probable cost, 1s. Serve one for each person. ‘ Almond Sauce for Paddings.— Boil gently a quarter of a pint of water and“half Pour this slowly, , when boiling—stirring all’ the time—upon a ALM dessert-spoonful of arrowroot, mixed with a little water. Add sugar to taste, the beaten yolk of an egg, and enough essence of almonds to flavour nicely. Serve in a tureen. Do not pour the sauce over the pudding, as every one may not like the flavour. A little brandy may be added. Time, about ten minutes to boil. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for a medium-sized pudding. Almond Sauce (another way).—Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet almonds with a few drops of water. Pour over them, boiling, half a pint of new milk. Mix a tea-spoonful of flour smoothly with a little water and the yolk of one egg. Stir all together briskly, over a moderate fire, until it froths. Serve with any sweet pudding. Time, ten minutes to boil. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for a medium- sized pudding. Almond Soup.—Take one quart of white stock (see Stock) made either from bones which have been soaked for a few minutes in salt and water to whiten them, or, if preferred, from fresh meat. Boil the liquor with a small piece of mace, five or six cloves, and a piece of stale bread. Take out the spice, and rub the soup through a sieve. Blanch and pound six ounces of sweet almonds with the hard-boiled yolk of an egg. Add the paste smoothly and slowly to the stock when it is cool. Boil it again, and just before serving the soup adda tea-cupful of milk or cream. Probable cost, if made from bones and with milk, 1s. Suf- ficient for five or six persons. Almond Spice Biscuits. — Put. two pounds of loaf sugar into a saucepan with sufficient water to dissolve it. Have ready two pounds of flour, mixed with two pounds of | sweet almonds blanched and pounded, a whole nutmeg grated, the rind of a lemon finely chopped, and a tea-spoonful of finely-ground ginger. Pour the hot syrup into this mix- ture, and make it into a stiff paste. Roll it into a long, thick piece, and bake in a quick oven. When sufficiently cooked, cut it into convenient pieces, which should be placed before the fire for a little while to dry. These biscuits should not be exposed to the air. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Almond Sponge-Cake.— Take half a pound of loaf sugar, rub the rind of a lemon on +wo or three of the lumps, and crush the whole to powder. Then take five eggs, separate the whites from the yolks, and beat the latter for some minutes; then shake in the sugar gra- dually, and beat together. Stir in six ounces of flour, with about twenty drops of the essence of almonds. Beat the whites to a solid froth, and add them to the rest. Fill a well-oiled tin about half full, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake,’ about an hour. Pro- bable cost, 1s. Sufficient for 4 moderate-sized mould. Almond Syrup (or Orgeat).— Blanch and pound”three ounces of sweet and four or five bitter almonds thoroughly, adding a little rose-water to prevent oiling. Add gradually one quart of milk and water, and sugar to taste. Boil and strain it, when it will be ready for (8) ALM use. It is a nice flavouring for sauces, pud- dings, creams, &c., and also makes a beneticial drink for persons affected with chest -com- plaints. Time, quarter of an hour. Sufficient for one quart. Probable cost, 9d. Almond Toffy.—Boil a pound of sugar, with half a pint of water, until it is brittle. Throw in one ounce and a half of sweet almonds, blanched and cut into halves, with two ounces of butter. It is done when it hardens on a little being put into cold water. Pour out on a well-oiled dish. Time, quarter of an hour. Sufficient for a small dish full. Probable cost, 8d. Almonds, Candied.—Blanch some al- monds, and fry them in butter or oil until they are nicely browned. Drain and dry them. Boil half a pint of water with half a pound: of sugar, and bring it to the candying point—that is, boil until the sugar adheres to the finger and thumb, when a little is taken between them and opened. The finger and thumb must first be dipped in cold water. Pour this upon the almonds boiling hot, and keep on stirring till they are cold. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per pound. Almonds, Coloured. — Blanch and chop, not too finely, as many sweet almonds as may be required, dry them thoroughly, pour’ a little prepared cochineal into the hands and rub them, and keep them in a warm place. Saffron soaked in water will make them yellow, spinach-juice green. Pound the leaves: of the spinach, squeeze the juice, and put it into a little jar, which must be placed in boiling water, and then simmered gently for a few minutes. Almonds, Croquettes of. — Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of sweet and seven or eight bitter almonds with three table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, the white of an egg, and a glass of sherry or raisin wine. Crumble a quarter of a pound of sponge-cake and add it to the mixture, with the frothed whites of three more eggs. Beat it into a solid paste, and mould it into small balls, about the size of a small orange. Dip them first into egg, then bread-crumbs, then sugar; fry them a few minutes in boiling butter or oil; drain and serve. Time to fry, six minutes. Probable cost, 1s. Almonds, Sugared.— Boil together a syrup made of one pound of sugar and one pint of water. Blanch one pound of sweet almonds, and put them in; let them boil for some minutes. Take them out and drain them; let the syrup boil until thick, then return the almonds, and take them out when coated with sugar, which will be in a minute or two. They should be thoroughly dried, and kept in a warm place. Time to boil, ten minutes. : Almonds, To Blanch.—Put some al- monds with a little cold water upon the, fire, and let them remain until the water is hot, but not boiling. Drain them and draw the skins off, placing them immediately into cold water, to preserve the colour. ALM (9) AME —_ ‘;;Admonds, To Pound.— of the meat will be spoilt. Draw the saucepan alittle to the side of the fire, throw a little cold water into the liquor in order to reduce the temperature considerably, and let it simmer very gently until ready. Care must be taken . to remove the scum when the water is on the point of boiling, or it will quickly sink, and cannot afterwards be removed. If it is desired to extract the juice from the meat, cover it with cold. water, and simmer slowly as before. The practice of boiling meat quickly cannot be sufficiently deprecated. It only rendens it hard and tasteless. At thesame time the simmering should be continuous. Before boiling, all joints should be delicately and neatly trimmed, and firmly skewered. It is a good plan to put a few pieces of wood under the meat to prevent it adhering to the pan. Salted meat requires longer boiling than fresh meat. Dried and smoked meat should be soaked for some hours before it is put into the water. Asa very large quantity of water takes the goodness out of the meat, it is well to use a saucepan sufficiently large to contain the joint easily, and no more. Afterwards, if the meat is entirely covered with water, this is all that is required. The whiteness of meat or poultry is preserved by its being wrapped in a well-floured cloth whilst in the pan, but great care must be taken that this is perfectly sweet and clean before using, or the flavour will be spoilt. From a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes should be allowed for each pound, counting from the time the water boils. Puddings should be plunged into plenty of boiling water, and kept boiling quickly until done. BOI ( 73 ) BOW Boiling Pot.—Large iron stewpans in which hams, joints of meat, and soups can be cooked are generally called boiling pots. They BOILING POT. are made of wrought-iron or cast-iron. The former are the more expensive of the two, but _are at the same time more durable, as they are better able to withstand the heat of the fire. DEEP BOILING POT. These vessels should be washed out and dried as soon as they are done with, and when not in use should be kept without cover in a dry place. Probable cost of a pot to hold five and a half gallons, wrought-iron, £1; cast-iron, 7s. Bologna Sausage.—Take equal quan- tities of beef and pork, pound it to a paste and season it very highly with pepper, salt, mace, cloves, and a little garlic. When this mixture is put into the skins, add a strip or two of fat bacon; it may be boiled for one hour, or smoked for two or three months, when it will be fit for use. The Italians eat it in its uncooked state. Probable cost of meat, 10d. to 1s. per pound. Bologna Sausage (another way).—Take a pound of lean beef or veal, a pound of bacon, rather fat, a pound of beef suet, and a pound of lean pork. Chop up very small all together, with a handful of sage leaves and a few sweet herbs; season to taste with salt and pepper, and press into a large, clean sausage- skin. Put the sausage into a saucepan of boil- ing water, and prick it over to prevent bursting. Boil for an hour. Probable cost, 10d. to 1s. per pound, Bologna Sausage (another way).—Take two pounds of tender, streaky pork, chop it up with parsley and chives, and season with salt, pepper, and spices, Fill a large sausage-skin with the mixture, tie the ends securely, and boil it for two or three hours, pricking it fre- quently with a large needle to prevent the skin from bursting. Probable cost, 10d. to 1s. per pound. Bologna Benes with Onions.— 8 1s prepared in the same manner as the preceding ; some onions finely minced, and sim- mered in lard until three parts cooked, being added to the other materials. Bonbons, Candied (4 la Gouffé).— Heat one pound of sugar until it registers forty degrees, then cool it down to thirty-eight degrees, by the addition of some essence to flavour, either aniseed cordial, cherry water, maraschino, or almond may be used. Let it cool, and beat it with a wooden spoon until it forms a paste, when put it in a basin until wanted. Next, get a2 wooden tray about one foot square, and two inches deep, fill it with dry starch finely powdered, and stamp the starch all over with an ornamental cutter, leav- ing about half an inch between each interstice. Melt part of the paste in a sugar boiler, rub the spout with whiting, and fill the patterns in the starch with the sugar ; let it dry for two hours; take them out, brush them to clear away the loose starch, place them in a candy pan, cover them with some syrup at about thirty-six degrees. of heat, and cover with a sheet of paper. Allow the bonbons to stay fifteen hours in a drying closet, then break the top only of the sugar, throw off the syrup, put the bonbons on a wire strainer, and give them their finishing oe by letting them again dry in the hot closet. Bonbons, Liquor.—These articles of confectionery are prepared by boiling white sugar with water into a thick syrup, and then adding a little spirit and any flavouring and colouring ingredients that may be required, To make these, a tray is filled with finely-pow- dered starch. On the surface of this, impres- sions are made of the shape and size of the bonbons desired. These hollow spaces are then filled with the syrup. More powdered starch is next sprinkled over the tray, so as to cover the syrup. The tray is then carefully placed in a warm place for the sugar to crystallise. The sugar in the syrup contained in the mould soon begins to form an outside crust, which gradually increases in thickness, while the weak spirit, collecting together in the interior, forms the liquid portion of the bonbon. Bone, To.—The art of boning meat or poultry, though by no means difficult for those: who have been taught it, cannot be acquired by verbal instruction only. It is necessary to take lessons from some one who understands. it, and practice will do the rest. It is exceed- ingly useful, most of all, because joints, &., when boned, are so much more easily carved than when served in the usual way, and also om account of the economy, as the bones taken. may be stewed down for gravy, for which fresty meat would otherwise be needed. The family poulterer will generally do all that is required for a moderate charge. The only rules which. can be given are—to use a sharp-pointed knife, to work with this close to the bone, and to use every care to keep the outer skin as whole as possible. Bones, Devilled.—Make a mixture of mustard, salt, cayenne pepper, and a little BOR youshroom ketchup; lay a coating of butter over the bones, then the mixture, and rub it well-in, ; and broil rather brown over a clear’ fire. Bordelaise Sauce (4 la Gouffé).—Add | to half a pint of Sauterne a table-spoonful of , shallots, blanched and chopped, and avery small | quantity of mignonette pepper. Reduce it, by | boiling, to a quarter of a pint, then add a pint of Spanish sauce, and boil for five minutes, with the addition of a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. (See also PRinciPyEs, p. xxii.) Bottle-Jack and Screen.—The usual method employed for roasting meat is to hang the bottle-jack on the movable bar placed for its reception on the front of the mantelshelf: to suspend the wheel from the jack and to hang the meat bya hook from the wheel. A screen, either entirely made of tin or lined with it, is then put in front of the fire to keep in the heat, and the jack is wound up two or three times whilst a joint is being roasted. By a modern improvement the bar can be altogether dispensed with, and the jack fastened above the screen, which is so made that the heat will be con- densed as much as possible. Those who do not wish to go to the expense of a- bottle-jack, but who appreciate the difference between a roasted joint and a.baked one, may find an economical substitute for ‘the: bottle-jack in the chimney BOTTLE-JACK AND SCREEN, screw-jack, which may be fastened upon any mantelshelf when wanted, and unscrewed: when done with. It requires a little more watching than the ordinary bottle-jack, but if a key be hung upon the hook with six or seven thick- nesses of worsted wound round it, one end, of whieh is fastened to the meat-hook, the -twist- ing and untwisting of the worsted cord will cause a rotatory motion -like that produced.-by the more expensive bottle-jack. Probable cost: Bottle-jack, from 7s. 6d. to 12s. 6d.; screen, (74) BRA from £1 10s. to £3 10s.; bottle-jack and: screen in oné, 128. 6d. to 25s.; chimney screw-jack, Is. 6d. to 2s. ie Bouille @ Baisse, or Bouillabesse. —Any kind of fish may be used for this dish : gurnard, haddock, whiting, mackerel, . carp, red and‘ grey mullet, soles, plaice, or lobsters, all do admirably for a bouillabesse. Chop two onions and put them with a piece of butter in a stewpan, and let them brown without burning, | then arrange the fish (which has been previously cut into small pieces) in the pan, allowing half a pound of fish for each person. Add a small quantity of the best olive-oil, a clove of garlic, two bay-leaves, 4 few slices of lemon, two or three tomatoes, or a little tomato sauce, as much powdered saffron as will go on the point of a table-knife, and, lastly, a glass of white wine or Madeira. Put.in sufficient stock to cover the whole, and boil from ten to fifteen minutes, skimming carefully the whole time. When ready to serve, throw in a handful of chopped parsley. This quantity of flavouring is intended for. six pounds of fish. On the Continent it is usually sent to table in two separate dishes, that.is to say, the fish in one, and the sauce in a small deep dish, but we think the whole would look better served on a large or in a deep entrée dish. Brain Cakes.—Soak and pick the brains, boil for a quarter of an hour, and blanch them. Pound them to a paste with a tea-spoonful of chopped sage, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of mace and cayenne, salt, pepper, and two well-beaten eggs: Make the paste into balls about the size of a florin; when flattened, dip them into egg and fine bread-crumb, and fry brown. They are appropriate as a garnish for calf’s head @ la tortue. Braise, To.—To braise meat is to cook it in a braisi¢re, or closed stewpan, so formed that live embers can be held in the cover, and the heat necessary for’cooking communicated | from above as well as below. As there is BRAISING-PAN. no -evaporation the meat imbibes the flavour ‘of the vegetables, &c., with which it is cooked, and care should be taken that these are in accordance with the nature of the meat and added in proper quantities. Before putting the meat into the pan, either lard it or cover it with thick slices of fat bacon. When sufficiently cooked, take it out and keep it hot, strain the gravy and free it entirely from fat (this is most effectually done by plunging the basin which contaizs BRA ( 75 ) BRA it into cold water, and thus causing the fat to settle on the top). Boil it quickly until very thick; and serve it in the dish with the meat, or boil it longer until it is thick enough to adhere to it. As braisiéres are not very usual in ordinary kitchens, we may say that almost as good an effect is produced, if the meat is bound in slices of fat bacon, and gently stewed in rich gravy. Bran Yeast.—A good scrviceablo yeast can be made from a pint of bran boiled in two quarts of water for ten minutes, with a handful of good hops. Strain the liquor, and when lukewarm, add three or four table-spoonfuls of beer yeast, and two of brown sugar or treacle ; put it into a jar or small wooden cask, and place it before the fire to ferment; when well worked it may be bottled, tightly corked, and kept in a cool place. Brandy, Lemon.—Take the thin or yellow rinds only of two small lemons, and cover them with half a pint of the best French brandy; let them stand in.a closed-up bottle for a fortnight, then strain off the spirit and keep it corked closely for use. A syrup of two ounces of loaf Sugar, and a quarter of a pint of water may be added if a sweet brandy lemon is desired. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. | ‘Brandy Mince for Pies.—Take one pound each of fresh beef suet, sugar, currants, and apples; wash, pick, and dry the currants, and mince the suet and apples with a quarter of a pound of citron, and the same of orange-peel, the juice of one lemon and the grated peel of two. When all these ingredients are well mixed, throw over them, by degrees, a glass of brandy. ' Brandy, Raspberry.—Take four pounds of raspberries and steep them in three quarts of brandy for one month; add syrup to taste, and flavour with cinnamon and clove mixture. Some persons prefer it without any flavouring ingredients, but it is always better to have a little added. s Brawn.—Prepare a hog’s head, by cutting off the ears, taking out the brains, and cleaning. generally ; rub in plenty of salt, and let it drain a whole day and night. Rub in two ounces of saltpetre and the same quantity of salt, and let it stand forthreedays. Next, put the head and salt-into a pan and cover it with water for two days. Now, wash it well from the salt, and boil till the bones can be easily removed. Ex- tract these and take off the skin of the head and tongue carefully. Chop up the meat into bits, but do not mince it, and season with pepper, salt, and shallot to taste. Place the skin of one-half of the head into a pan, closely fitting it, and press into it the chopped head and tongue. When this is done, take the other skin and ‘lay it cleverly in place, or put the other skin in the pan and proceed as before, and turn out when cold. Should the head be too fat, add some lean pork. For a sauce, boila pint of vinegar with a quart of the liquor in which the head was boiled, and two ounces of salt, and pour over the brawn when the liquor is cold. ‘Che hair should be carefully removed from the cars, and they must be boiled till tender, then divided into long narrow pieces and mixed with the meat. Time to boil, from two to threo hours. Probable cost fo: ig’s head, 5d. per a ra pig’s head, dd. per Brawn (another way).—Take three pigs’ heads, and two cheeks of salted pork, two sheeps’ tongues, a piece or the whole of a bullock’s tongue. Boil all together until the meat will separate from the bones. Putthe meat on a pastes board, cut it into small bits, and while cutting throw the following spices, well pounded, over it:—one ounce and a half of white pepper, three-quarters of an ounce of allspice, eight cloves, and two blades of mace. The bullock’s tongue to be skinned, sliced, and distributed in thin layers between the meat in the mould. Boil a cow-heel in one pint of water till re- duced to half, throw this over and cover, putting a heavy weight on the top. Let it stay all night, and the next morning it will be firm in the mould. Brawn (another way).—Tako the fat, cars, and tongue, of a pig’s head, and any pieces which may have been cut off in trimming, and soak in salt and water all night. Cleanse, and boil them for three hours, with only enough water to keep them from burning, and the meat from getting dry. The bones should then be taken out, the ears cut into strips, and the tongue into slices. Put the bones into the saucepan with the liquor, a large onion, two blades of mace, six allspice, twenty-five pepper- corns, two bay leaves, and a little thyme. Boil for half-an-hour, strain the liquor, put it with the meat, boil once more, and pour into a brawn mould. When required the brawn may be separated from the moulds by dipping them into hot water, or by placing a hot towel around them for a few minutes. Brawn, Mock.—Remove the bladebone from the shoulder of a large hog or boar, and boil the meat gently two hours or more, according to size. When cold rub in black pepper, salt, cayenne, allspice, shallot, and thyme to taste. Let it remain for twenty-four hours in this ‘seasoning. Next day prepare a forcemeat of veal, ham, beef, suet, minced parsley, thyme, onion, lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg, white pepper, — and bind it with beaten egg, and, press it into the space left by the bladebone. Place it in a pan, brown side downwards, taking care, how- ever, that it does not stick to the bottom, which may be prevented by placing a few twigs cross- ways in the pan. Then pour over the shoul- der a quart of mild ale, and bake it six or seven. hours in an oven. When nearly done, take it ‘out and clear off the fat; add a bottle of wine and the juice of a large lemon; return it ‘to the oven, and when it is tender enough to be easily pierced with a wooden skewer or a strong straw, it is sufficiently done, and should be served hot. Probable cost of shoulder, 8d. or 9d. per pound. Brawn Sauce.—Mix nicely together two tea-spoonfuls of moist sugar, one of mustard, and one of the best Lucca oil. “When quite smooth, add more vinegar and oil in equal proportions, though some prefer more of the one than of the other. Care must be taken BRA ( 76 ) BRE to make the sauce quite smooth, and of a nice rich golden colour. Brawn, Sussex.—Prepare a pig’s head as directed in the recipe for Brawn. Strew the halves with salt, and drain them. Cleanse the ears and feet. Rub in one ounce and a half of saltpetre with six ounces of sugar, and shortly after six ounces of salt. Next day, pour a quarter of a pint of vinegar over all, and turn the meat in the pickle every twenty-four hours for a week; wash off the pickle and boil till all the bones may be easily removed, but the form of the head must be retained. Flatten the head on a board, cut some of the meat from the thickest part, and place it on the thinnest, to give aneven appearance. Season all thoroughly with nutmeg, mace, cayenne, cloves, &c. In- termix the head with pieces of the ears, feet, and tongue; roll it up tightly and bind firmly, tying a thin cloth closely round, and securely fastening at both ends. Now place the head in a braising or other suitable pan, with the bones and trimmings of the feet and ears, a large bunch of savoury herbs, two onions, a small head of celery, some carrots, a tea-spoonful of black peppercorns, and sufficient cold water to cover all well. Boil for four hours, and allow it to remain in the liquor till nearly cold. Take off the cloth and put the brawn between two. dishes, and press with a heavy weight till next day. Before serving take off the bands. Average cost of pig’s head, 5d. per pound. Bread (sce Derbyshire Bread). Bread Brandy Cakes.—Separate the yolks from the whites of eight eggs, beat up the yolks and five whites together. Dissolve six ounces of butter in a pint of milk, and pour it, while hot, over « pound of bread-crumbs. When cold, pour in the eggs and add equal quantities of sugar and well-washed currants, with about a quarter of an ounce of nutmeg grated, and a glass of brandy. Line patty- pans with short paste, put in a spoonful of the preparation, and bake for twenty minutes. Bread, Broken, Pudding. — This pudding will use up the crusts and remnants of bread to be found in every household; all will suit, no matter how dry they are, so that they are not mouldy. Gather all into a large bowl, and throw over it as much sweetened milk as the bread is likely to absorb, with two or three table-spoonfuls of finely-shred suet, and a little salt. Cover until well soaked, then beat the whole smooth, and add two or three well-beaten eggs, a few currants and raisins, and some grated nutmeg. The addition of a table-spoonful of rum will be found an improve- ment. Bake in an ordinary pudding-dish for about an hour and a half. Bread, Brown, Biscuits.—Take two ounces of butter dissolved in half a pint of boiling water, and stir it into a pound of wheat meal; knead it toa firm dough. Mix all well, roll out to a thickness of about half an inch, and cut with a biscuit-cutter or a sharp-edged tea- cup. Prick the biscuits with a fork, and bake ina quick oven. Average cost, 4d. Sufficient for one pound of biscuits. Bread, Brown, Ice Cream.— Stale bread must be used for this cream, mixed with an equal quantity of stale sponge cake. Take two sponge cakes and two thick slices of bread, grate them into a jug, and pour over half a pint of milk and a pint of cream, made sweet with half a pound of sugar. Place the jug in a saucepan, and stir the contents over the fire until it gets thick. A few of the bread- crumbs sifted very finely may be added with a glass of any liquor liked to the mixture when quite cold, and just before being put to freeze. Freeze for about twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for eight persons. Bread, Brown, Pudding.—Take equal quantities of well-washed currants, brown bread- crumbs, and shred suet—half a pound of each— add six ounces of sugar, half a glass of brandy, and the same quantity of cream; mix all to- gether, with six eggs well beaten, leaving out the whites of two. Bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Serve with sweet sauce and sugar over the top. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bread Cakes, Fried, American.— To five tea-cupfuls of light dough add half a cupful of butter, three of brown sugar, a tea- spoonful of salt, four eggs, and a little grated |. nutmeg. Knead these well together with flour, and let them rise before the fire until very light. Knead the dough again after it rises; cut it into diamond-shaped cakes; let them rise; and fry in lard or dripping, as soon as light. These cakes must be served as soon as they are ready. Bread, Cobbett’s Recipe for.—Take one pint of good sweet yeast, and the same of slightly warm water; make a hollow in the centre of a bushel of flour and throw it in, and mix it up with the flour lying round it, till it has become a thin batter; then throw some flour over the batter, and a cloth over the pan; draw it near the fire to leaven, and when sufficiently risen, which may be known by the cracks and. flowing of the yeast, mix the whole, with the addition of more warm water or milk, and a little salt strewn over, into a stiff dough. Knead it well, shape it into loaves, in tins or otherwise, place them in a warm place for twenty minutes, and then bake in a moderate oven. If the oven is too hot, the bread will not rise well. Bread Croustades.—Bread croustades are baked in a variety of shapes. The inside or crumb is scooped out, and the outer part or crust is fried, and then dried from the fat and filled with mincemeat or ragout. In Scotland croustades or moulds are made of mashed pota- toes, and lined with gratin composed of the white parts of fowl or veal seasoned with salt, pepper, and herbs. Miinster loaves may be classed under the same head as a supper-dish. They are made thus: scrape three or four ounces of lean ham, and an ounce or two of veal, and mix it with a pound of well-mashed potatoes; add salt, pepper, and a couple of eggs to bind, and mould into any shapes desired. They may be fried and served with or without gravy. Bread Crumbs, Fried.—Put some thin slices of bread into an oven when the fire has BRE (77) BRE gone low, and let them stay all night; roll them next morning into crumbs.’ Put into a fry- ing-pan some butter or lard, and when it is on the point of boiling, add the bread-crumbs. Stir them till they are of a clear brown colour. Take them out with a slice, and put them on blotting-paper before the fire, to draw away all the fat; or they may be browned in a gentle oven without butter. Bread-crumbs so prepared are useful for serving with game of any sort. Bread Crusts Toasted for Soup.— Toast bread crusts in front of a very small fire, and on a wire toaster. When brown on both sides, cut the bread into very small dice before serving. Untoasted bread swells, and is likely to spoil the appearance of the soup. Crusts for toasted cheese are pulled, rough pieces, from a fresh loaf, and then browned in the oven or in front of a fire. Bread Custard Pudding.—Make a custard according to the size of pudding re- quired. A pint of custard will filla medium. sized dish. Cut slices of thin bread and but- ter, to suit the dish, and over each layer throw currants, sugar, and finely-cut candied lemon, and a little nutmeg. Pour the custard over by degrees so that the bread may be well ” saturated, and let it stand an hour before put- ting it into the oven. dust before it is put in, throw over the last of the custard, and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour. Probable cost, about 1s. Sufficient for five or six people. Bread, French.—Stir into four pounds of flour flavoured with three ounces of salt, half a pint of good sweet yeast, the yolks of two eggs, and the whites of three beaten sepa- rately, and a pint of warm milk. Stir all till well mixed into a thin dough, and let it rise for afew minutes. Make the dough into loaves of the size required, and bake in a brisk oven with or without tins. Time to bake, from three- quarters to one hour. Probable cost, 1s. Suffi- cient for three loaves. Bread Fried for Soup.—Take one or two slices of stale bread a quarter of an inch thick. Remove the crust and cut them into small dice not more than a quarter of an inch square. Half fill an iron saucepan with frying fat and let this boil, which it will do when it is still, and a blue smoke rises from it. Put the sippets a few at a time into a frying basket, plunge them into the fat, and shake them about until they are a golden brown colour. Turn them upon kitchen paper to free them from grease, take another spoonful and proceed as before until a sufficient quantity of sippets are fried. Put the fried bread upon a dish covered with a napkin, and hand round with the soup. Sometimes the sippets are put into the soup tureen, and the soup is poured over them. Bread Grater,—A bread-grater is a tin cylinder perforated with holes upon each side, and as its name implies is used to crumble bread for forcemeats, &c. Although many cooks dispense with it entirely, and merely rub the bread between the palms of the hands, the crumbs thus prepared are not nearly so smooth and even as when this little article is used. Probable cost, 1s. to 1s. 6d. Bread, Home-made.—Make a cavity in the middle of a quartern of flour, and stir into it a pint of warm milk or water, four table- spoonfuls of good yeast, and a little salt. Cover it up and set it before the fire to rise. If set over night make up next morning, then add half a pint more milk or water, and Imead it into a dough for ten minutes. Set it by the fire for one hour and a half, then make into loaves, and bake from one hour and a half to two hours, according to size. If equal quantities of meal and flour be used, this will make an excellent brown bread. Bread, Household.—To ten pounds of flour in a kmeading-trough put a small handful of salt. Stir into this about two quarts of water, more or less, as some flour absorbs more water than others. For very white bread, made with superfine flour, the dough should be softer than for seconds or brown bread. In summer the water may be lukewarm; in winter, con- siderably warmer, but never hot enough to kill the yeast. After the water is mixed with the flour, adda cupful of good yeast, then knead the bread, and leave it to rise ina warm place, covered with a cloth. If all goes well, it will rise sufficiently in the course of an hour or an hour and a half, Then divide it into rolls, loaves, or tin-breads, as wanted, and bake. For a three-pound loaf, take three pounds and a half of dough; fora four-pound loaf, four pounds eleven ounces; for a six-pound loaf, six pounds and three- quarters; and for an eight-pound loaf, nine pounds of dough. Bread, Household (another way).—It often happens that household bread, from a little want of care, is found bitter and unpalatable. To remedy this, the yeast or barm should be put into water over night. Next day peel and boil three pounds of potatoes, beating them to a pulp, and pass through a colander, with a pint of cold water to half a pint of good sweet yeast. Mix the potato pulp and yeast thoroughly to- gether, and then pour it into a hollow made in the middle of one peck of flour. Stir some of the flour into the mixture, till it is like a thick batter, then cover with a little of the dry flour, throw a cloth over the pan, and set it near the fire to rise. In about an hour mix it with five pints of lukewarm water and two ounces of salt, toa dough. Cover it up again as before, and let it stand this time about two hours, then knead it into loaves, and bake for an hour and a half in a good oven. Probable cost, about 74d. per four-pound loaf. Bread, Indian Corn.—Mix half a pint of white Indian meal, coarsely ground, with one pint of fresh milk, one egg, and a pinch of salt. Get ready a tin of, say four inches dia- meter-at the bottom, and three inches deep, grease it well, and pour in the batter which should only half fill the dish. Bake in a toler- ably quick oven and serve very hot, on a white Woyley, or, if preferred, halve it and butter it. Timé, thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. ¢ BRE ( 78 ) BRE Bread Jelly (for Invalids).—Toast thin slices of a French roll till they are equally brown on both sides, and of a pale colour, then boil them in a quart of water till they become a sort of jelly. Coola little in a spoon as a test. Strain over some juices of lemon-peel, and sweeten with sugar. A little wine may be added if preferred. Bread Omelet.—Mix equal quantities of bread-crumbs and cream, a tea-spoonful of each, break an ounce of butter into bits, and add with it salt, pepper, and nutmeg. When the cream has been absorbed by the bread, beat it till smooth, with a fork, and mix it to three well- beaten eggs. like an ordinary omelet. Time to fry, three to four minutes. Bread Pudding.—Butter a shallow pie Gish and three-parts fill it with thin slices of bread and butter. Sprinkle sugar and flavour- ing over the layers. Pour on gradually a custard made with a pint of milk and two eggs. Soak awhile, and bake till set. Bread Pudding (another way).—Take fine bread-crumbs, and pour upon them as much boiling milk as they will absorb. Soak awhile, then for every table-spoonful of bread allow one egg, well beaten; sweeten the mixture agreeably and grate ina little nutmeg. Put it into a buttered basin, and boil from twenty to thirty minutes, according to the size of the pudding. If baked, rather less time will do; it only requires to be a light brown. Bread Pudding, Boiled.—Soak half a pint of bread-crumbs with one pint of milk thrown on them while in a boiling state, and when the milk has become cold, add three well-beaten eggs, two ounces of currants, with sugar and nutmeg to taste. Mix all well together, butter a basin, pour in the mixture, and keep it boiling, with a cloth securely tied over the top, for rather more than one hour. Pieces of bread unfit for the table, on account of their staleness, may be used up in bread puddings, by carefully soaking them, and then pressing them dry before they are added to the rest. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Bread Pudding with Onions.—Mix half a pound of bread-crumbs with a tea-spoon- ful of sage, two ounces of onions, and pepper and salt, with three-quarters of a pint of milk. Add two eggs well beaten, and bake in a quick oven. Bread, Pulled.—Pull the soft, portion of a new loaf into rough pieces; let them be of equal size, say about two or three inches each way. Dry the pieces in a slow oven or before the fire, till they become a nice light brown colour, and when they are quite crisp they will be ready for use. a Bread, Rice.—Allow one pound of rice to four pounds of wheat flour. The rice must be first boiled in milk or water; and while warm added to the flour, but care must be taken to see that the rice is thoroughly done. Mix all into a dough with a little yeast, a quarter of an ounce of salt, and sufficient. warm water for the required consistency. When it has risen before the fire a proper time, make into loaves of any shape, and bake according to size. This bread is very delicious made with a mixture of milk. Probable cost, 8d. per four-pound loaf. Bread Sauce.—Take a little stale bread, and rub it through a wire sieve, or grate it, till two ounces of fine crumbs are obtained. Put these into a saucepan with half a pint of milk, a moderate-sized onion peeled, and six pepper- corns. Boil for ten minutes, and stir the sauce to keep it from burning. Lift it from the fire. Take out the onion and the peppercorns, stir in a small pat of butter, and two or three spoonfuls of cream, if it is to be had, and keep stirring till the butter is dissolved. Serve hot in a sauce tureen. Cooks often make the mistake of preparing this sauce some time before it is wanted, and this makes it pappy. If liked, a very little grated nutmeg can be added to the sauce, but most people would prefer that it should be omitted. Bread Sauce (another way).—Stew the head, neck, and legs of poultry with an onion, a little mace, peppercorns, and salt. Take one pint of the broth when strained, pour it hot over twelve ounces of bread-crumbs, boil for ten minutes, and add three table-spoonfuls of cream. Time to make the broth, two hours. | Bread Sauce (another way).—Cut a French roll, one day old, into thick slices: Put them into a clean saucepan ; add a few pepper- corns, one whole onion, a little salt, and boiling milk enough to cover it. Let it simmer gently by the side of the fire till the bread soaks up the milk; then add a little cream, take out the onions, and rub the whole through a sieve. Serve very hot. ‘ Bread Sauce for Partridges.—Moisten soft crumb of bread in milk, and simmer it by the side of the fire with the lid on the pan for about fifteen minutes, Then add some butter, and season with pepper and salt, Bread, Short.—To one pound and a half of flour add the following ingredients :—a quarter of a pound of candied orange and lemon- peel, cut small; the same of sweet almonds, blanched and cut; loaf sugar; and caraway comfits (some of the latter may be kept to strew over the top of the bread). Dissolve a pound of butter, and when it is getting cool pour it into the flour, and mix it quickly into a dough, with half a pound more flour. Then pour it into a large round cake of an inch in thickness ; divide it into four parts, and pinch the edge of each piece neatly with the thumb and finger ; strew the caraway comfits over the top, with small devices of orange or citron- peel. Lay the cakes on floured paper, which is again to be placed upon tins, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, twenty-five to thirty minutes. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Bread, Sippets of.—-Cut slices of stale bread about the third of po inch thick, and trim into any form required. Fry them in butter till some are dark, but not burnt, and some a light brown. When they are crisp, lay them-on a cloth to ‘When wanted to adhere to the edge of a dish, dip the end ina BRE (79 ) BRE _ mixture of white of egg and flour. If the dish be made very hot the sippets will not stay in their places. , Bread, Soda.—Mix one tea-spoonful of tartaric acid with two pounds of flour, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in a pint of milk, and when it is free from sediment add it to the flour, and mix the whole quickly into a light dough. This quantity will make two loaves. They should be put into a brisk oven immediately, and baked for an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Bread, Stale, How to use up.— When bread has become so hard that it cannot be eaten, it should be grated into coarse powder, ‘and preserved in wide-mouthed bottles or jars. When kept well covered up, and in a dry place, it will remain good for a considerable time. Bread thus powdered will be found very useful for the preparation of puddings, stuffings, and similar purposes. Bread, Tipsy.—Cut a French roll into thin slices, and pare off the crusts, leaving it a nice round shape; spread raspberry, strawberry, or currant jam over each slice, and pile them one on the other in a glass dish. Pour over them as much sherry as the bread will absorb. Ornament it round with blanched almonds cut into very fine strips, and stick them also on the top; pour a custard round and serve. This is a quickly-prepared and cheap dish. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Bread, Unfermented.—Take two ounces of carbonate of soda, one ounce and a quarter of tartaric acid, and a piece of sal- ammoniac, about the size a hazel-nut, powdered. Let these be well mixed in a perfectly dry state. Then blend them with half a peck of wheaten flour—or one-third of barley flour may be used—and about two ounces of salt. Make a deep hole in the middle of the flour so pre- pared, and pour in as much cold water as will make the dough somewhat less stiff than bread dough is usually made. Mix it briskly and well. Make this quantity into three loaves. Put them immediately into a quick oven, and let them bake for one hour and ten minutes. The exact time will depend, of course, upon the heat of the oven; but a very little practice will deter- mine this. Sweet palatable nutritious bread can be made cheaply by carefully following this recipe. Bread without Yeast.—To every half- quartern of flour add one tea-spoonful of car- bonate of soda and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Mix altogether; then to the water, sufficient to make a dough, add half atea-spoonful of muriatic acid. Set into the oven at once. Thismakes deli- cious and wholesome bread. Some use tartaric acid ; in which case the bread will contain tar- trate of soda, which, although not poisonous, is medicinal, being slightly purgative. On the other hand, muriatic acid neutralises soda just as well as tartaric acid, and the resulting com- pound is only common salt. Bread and Fruit Fritters.—Taketwelve slices of bread and butter, cut off the crust, and let them be of equal thickness; spread them over with jam—any sort that may be liked—and make a cover with another slice; press them tightly together, and cut them into any desired forms. Make a batter, as for apple fritters, dip them in and fry in boiling lard about ten minutes; dry them before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper, and serve on a napkin with sifted sugar sprinkled over. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for a small dish. Bread and Meat Pudding, Port- able.—Make a bread dough, roll out the paste thick, and put any kind of fat meat, seasoned acco, to taste, upon it: ‘wrap it over, and'\ bake or boil as may be most con- venient. This mode of cooking is particulariy adapted for travellers or colonial life. Any kind of game, poultry, or meat may be stuffed, and, if well skewered before the paste is put around it, will be a convenient! dish of bread, meat, and sauce combined, as they may first be cooked at home, and afterwards warmed for use when required. Bread. and Parsley Fritters.—Pour boiling water on six ounces of bread without crust, cover it up for an hour, and then beat it up with a fork until quite smooth; add, and mix thoroughly, an ounce of finely-chopped parsley, pepper and salt to taste, and four eggs, well beaten. Fry, in fritters, a nice brown, and serve with brown sauce. .Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost, about 6d. Bread, Wheat and Rice.—Beat one pound and a half of well-boiled rice to a paste,’ and mix it with seven pounds of fine wheaten flour while still warm; take a pint and a half of warm milk and water, four ounces of salt, and four table-spoonfuls of ycast, put them into the centre of the flour, make a thin batter, cover the top with flour, and leave it to rise for an hour and a half; then make it into a dough with more milk and water, and after Imeading and forming it into loaves, set it by the fire for another hour to rise before being put into the oven. Bake from one and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 1s. 10d. Sufficient for four loaves. Breakfast Biscuits.—Mix flour with cream to a proper consistency, and salt to taste. One pound of flour to a quarter of a pint oi thin cream will make a paste sufficiently stiff. Form into small biscuits, prick them, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. Probable cost, about 6d. Or, mix flour as stated with a small bit of butter, the size of a pigeon’s egg, and moisten with a quarter of a pint of cold water; add a little salt, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Probable cost, about 4d. Breakfast Cakes or Rolis.—Take one pound of fine flour, and make it into a dough with an ounce of butter which has been warmed, a little salt, half a pint of milk, and half an ounce of good fresh German yeast dissolved in warm water; cover it well np, and leave it all night by the side of the fire. In the morning make up into'rolls; and if they stand for half an hour before baking they will be all the better. Seven orjeight rolls may be made with BRE ( 80) BRI this quantity of dough. Time for baking, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 7d. Breakfast Cakes or Rolls (another way).—Make a batter with two pounds of flour, and as much warm milk and water, with about a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast, and a little salt, as will smooth it. Let it stand before the fire to rise for two hours. Have ready a little flour and butter well rubbed together, and make the batter with this, and as much more flour as may be required, into a light dough. Make it into rolls and bake on tins; rasp, and keep them covered up warm till wanted. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Sufficient for twelve ordinary- sized rolls. Probable cost, 8d. Breakfast Muffins.—Stir flour enough into a pint of hot milk, and about a quarter of a pint of yeast to make a thin batter, then put it in a warm place to rise. Rub two ounces of butter into a little flour, add salt, and with more milk and flour make the batter into a stiff dough. Put it aside well covered up in a warm place for half an hour, when the dough will be quite ready to shape into muffins, but they should not be baked until they have stood for another quarter of an hour. They are easily baked in a frying-pan or on a griddle. Time to bake, swenty minutes to half an hour. Bream, To Dress.—This handsome, but not very excellent fish, will eat best if broiled over a slow clear fire for half an hour. The inside must be thoroughly cleansed, but the scales should not be removed; and it should be wiped perfectly dry before it is put on the fire. Turn it so that both sides may be browned, and dredge a little flour if amy cracks appear. Serve with melted butter and anchovy sauce. In carving, remove the scales and skin, and serve only what is underneath. Bream may be stuffed with a veal forcemeat, and baked—it will take longer than the broiling process—or wrapped in a buttered paper, and placed in a moderate oven for about half an hour. It should be well basted in its own dripping and a little butter. Bremen Cheesecakes. — Cheesecakes | from this recipe are quickly prepared and at little cost. Beat well, till white, the, yolks of eight eggs, and add eight ounces of finely-sifted sugar and eight ounces of sweet almonds, pow- dered. Line the pans with a thin paste, and put in the mixture with a little fresh butter on the top of each just before they are placed in the oven. Take care that the oven is not too hot, or the cakes will fall in cooling. Bake for about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Brentford Rolls.—Take two pounds of flour, quarter of a pound of butter, two ounces of powdered sugar, two eggs, quarter of a pint of yeast, milk enough to form a dough, and salt according to taste. Rub the flour, butter, and sugar together; beat the eggs, and add them to the other ingredients. When light, mould the dough out in rolls, let them rise, and bake on tins in a moderate oven. Breslau Beef (sce Beef, Breslau). Bretonne Brandy Pudding.—Boil six ounces of loaf sugar in half a pint of milk, allow jt to cool for a little, and add to it six well. beaten eggs; then let it get quite cold. Prepare a quarter of a pound of thin slices of stale bread and saturate the half of them with two glasses of brandy. Lay some of the bread in a basin previously buttered, holding a pint and a half. Strew over it some chopped candied orange-peel and stoned raisins, and then some custard, till all is used up. Tie the basin over with a buttered paper. Let it stand to soak for ten minutes, and steam for an hour and three- quarters. Turn out, and serve with a sauce of clarified sugar which has been seasoned with vanilla and brandy. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Bretonne Sauce (for Cold or Hot Beef). —Mix a wine-glassful of vinegar with equal quantities of pounded sugar and mustard, a tea-spoonful of each, and about a table-spoon- ful of grated horse-radish. When pickles are preferred, this mixture will be found very agreeable; it combines the flavour of a sauce and pickle. Probable cost, 4d. Bride Cake.—Commence operations by washing, picking, and putting two pounds of currants to dry before the fire, and then slicing thinly half a pound each of candied peels, BRIDE CAKE, orange, citron, and lemon. Next, bruise one pound of sweet almonds with a little orange- flower water, and pound quarter of an ounce each of mace, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmegs to a powder. Wash four pounds of butter, and whip it to a cream; beat up the yolks and whites, separately, of eighteen or twenty eggs— the whites should be frothed. Get two pounds of sifted sugar, half a pint of brandy, and the same of sherry, and four pounds of Vienna flour, well dried and sifted. Put the creamed butter into a large basin, and by degrees mix in the BRI sugar, stirring it constantly. Next add the frothed whites of the eggs, and beat all together with the yolks; then the almonds, spices, and, very gradually, the flour, till all are thoroughly blended. Beat-well, andadd the currants, sprink- ling them in very gradually, so as to distribute them equally, and finish by making all smooth with the brandy andsherry. Keep up the beating till all is ready for the baking. A double paper well buttered, must be put as a lining to the baking-tin, and the mixture should not fill the hoop more than three patts, that it may have room to expand. Put a paper over the top, and bake the cake in a moderately heated oven. Cover it with almond icing, allow it to dry, and then add ornamented sugar-icing, three. quarters of an inch in thickness. Average cost, lis. (See also Wedding Cake.) Bride Pie.—Parboil some veal sweet- breads and pieces of lamb in water, . and cut them into slices. Mix with them some slices of blanched ox palate, streaky bacon, a pint of oysters, and some roast chestnuts, and season, with salt, mace, and nutmeg. When the pie-dish is full, lay slices of butter on the top of it, cover it with paste, and bake. When done, lift up the lid, and put into the pie four taw eggs beaten up with a little butter, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sherry. Brighton Rock.—Blanch and pound to a paste three ounces of sweet and one of bitter almonds, using a little rose-water to moisten. Add four ounces of clean currants, and mix one pound of dry flour with half a pound of sifted loaf sugar and the almond paste. Stir into this half a pound of fresh butter beaten to a cream, and mix all well together. The cakes may be baked in small pans or dropped in lumps on floured tins, and cooked for ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Brill, To Boil.—This fish closely re- sembles the turbot, and is boiled in the same manner. Choose a thick fish, and see that it is quite fresh, which may be known by the yel- lowish hue of the flesh. Clean, cut off the fins and, in order to preserve its whiteness, rub it over with the juice of a lemon and a little salt. Put it into a fish-kettle with water to cover, and salt in the proportion of three ounces to each gallon of water. Add a little vinegar, bring it to a boil, and continue to sim- mer gently until the fish is done. Lay it on a dish the white side up. Garnish in the usual way,and serve on a napkin. Time, twenty mi- nutes to boil a brill of four pounds’ weight. Brill may also be fried whole or in fillets like a sole. Brioche, or French Paste. — To make this excellent French paste, take two pounds of fine flour, and separate eight ounces of it to make the leaven. Place this last into a pan, and mix it with half a pint of yeast and a little warm water. Throw a cloth over the pan, and put it near the fire for about twenty minutes to rise. Meanwhile make a hollow space in the centre of the remaining flour, and put into it half an ounce of salt, If an ounce of finely-sifted sugar, and an eighth of a pint of cream, or some milk if there is no cream. Adda pound of good dry 6—N.z. (81 ) BRO fresh butter cut into small pieces; put them into the flour, and pour over all six eggs well beaten. Work all this with the hand until the whole is quite smooth. If the flour will take one or two eggs more, add them ; but the paste must not be so soft as to adhere to the board or roller. When the leaven is well risen, spread the paste out and the leaven over it, and knead well together. Then cut into small portions and mix again, that the leaven may be thoroughly and equally incorporated with the other ingredients. Next, dust some flour on a cloth and roll the brioche (for so it is now called) in it. Put it in a pan, and set it in a cool place in summer, and in a warm place in winter. Use it the early part of the following day; then mead it afresh, and if the French form is desired, make into balls of uniform ' size. Hollow them at the top by pressing the thumb ‘into them; brush them over with eggs, and put a second much smaller ball into the hollow part. ofeach. Glaze again with yolk of egg, and bake. them for half an hour in a quick oven; or the. brioche may be formed into cakes and placed on a tin, and supported with pasteboard to pre-. vent the flattening of the cakes. Brioche may also be used as a paste to enclose rissoles, or to. make rolls for jams or jellies, or even for vol au vent ; but to many persons it is unpalatable om. account of the large proportion of butter and_ eggs. (See also Paste Brioche.) Broad Beans (see Beans, Broad). Brocoli, Boiled.—Trim off all leaves. that are not required or liked, and place the brocoli in a pan of salted water to kill any - insects, &c., that may have taken shelter under - the stalks. Wash them well, and put them into. an uncovered saucepan of boiling water, with « large table-spoonful of salt to every half gallon. of water. Keep them boiling till done, which. will be in about ten or fifteen minutes, according to size. Drain them directly they are'done, or - they will lose colour and become sodden. Brocoli, To Pickle.—Choose the finest, _ whitest, and closest vegetables before they are quite ripe. Pare off all green leaves and the . outsides of the. stalks. Parboil them in well- salted water. When drained and dry, pull of the branches in convenient-sized pieces, and put them into a jar of pickle prepared as for onions. Time to parboil, four or five minutes. Probable cost, from 2d. to 6d. ‘ Broil, To.—In broiling, the first considera- . tion is the gridiron. This should be kept most scrupulously bright and clean. It should never- be put away dirty, but be polished and rubbed) dry every time it is used, and carefully freed from grease, &c., between the bars, as well as on the top of them. It should be placed over the fire. for four or five minutes to be heated through before being used, but not made'so hot that it will burn the meat; and after that it should be well rubbed with mutton suet if meat is to- be cooked, and with chalk for fish; and it is im- portant that a separate gridiron should be kept for these two. The gridiron should be placed a little above the fire, and held in a slanting direction, so that the fat which flows trom it BRO may not drop upon the cinders, and'so cause a smoke or flame. If these should arise, the’ gridiron may be lifted away for a moment till they have subsided. The fire must be clear, bright, and tolerably strong, made of cinders mixed with a little coke or charcoal. A half durnt-out fire is the best. A little salt thrown over it will help to make the fire clear. Sprinkle a little pepper over the meat before it is put upon the bars, but no salt. Turn it frequently with a pair of steak tongs. If these are not at hand, and it is necessary to use a fork, put if into the fat part of the meat, never into the lean, or the juice will escape.’ If, before turning the meat, a little gravy has settled upon it, drop it care- fully on the dish upon which the meat is to be served. Chops and steaks of beef and mutton are generally preferred rather underdone; but lamb and pork chops must be well cooked. Sprinkle a little salt upon the dish before placing |: the meat upon it, and mix with it, if liked, a little ketchup; but, generally speaking, the juice which runs from the meat is the only gravy required. Birds which are cut in halves before broiling should be laid with the inside first to the fire. Cutlets which have been egged and breaded should be dipped in clarified butter Before being laid upon the gridiron. Fish should be wrapped’ in well-buttered paper before being broiled, or, if this is not done, it should be washed in vinegar, well dried, and dredged with flour. Broiling is by no means difficult if care and attention be given to it. It should always be done the last thing, as the meat should be taken quickly from the fire to the table, and the ‘dishes and plates used should be made as hot as possible. With these—a clean gridiron, a clear fire, good material, and close’watchfulness, and the exer- cise of a little ‘judgment in'taking the meat up at the right moment—small dainty pieces, of meat and fish may be cooked by broiling in a ‘manner superior to that which can be obtained ‘by any other process of cookery. Brose Beef (sce Beef, Brose). Broth, Strengthening.—Put into a “vessel four pounds of the scrag end of a neck of mutton, freed entirely from fat, and chopped into small pieces, with six pints of water. Boil, .skim, draw the pan back, and simmer for an hour. Add three ounces of washed rice, with a turnip and some celery if liked, ‘Simmer for two hours. Strain, free from fat, add salt, and serve. cand other fish).—Dissolve two ounces of butter ina saucepan, and stir it till it is brown without burning. Add two table-spoonfuls of tarragon yinegar, four table-spoonfuls of good brown sauce, a table-spoonful of Harvey, a tea-spoonful of bruised capers, and half a tea-spoonful of anchovy. Stir the sauce over the’ fire till it boils, and serve it poured over the fish, Brown Sauce.—Melt two ounces of butter “in a small saucepan, and add one ounce of flour, 284i until it is of a brown colour. Then add ‘sufficient boiling stock to render it of a -cream-like consistency, and season to tasté with | alt and pepper. ( 82) BUC Brown Pou into small. pieces: the, following vegetables :—Ono ‘pound of,,turnips, the same of carrots, half a pound of celery, and six ounces of onions. Put these into.a pan with four ounces of butter, and let them stew, with occasional stirring, till brown. Boil one pint and a half of peas, in as much boiling stock or water as will make up the ‘entire quantity to three quarts. «Add: half. a. pound. of toasted. bread, season with black peppercorns, Jamaica pepper, and salt.:' Boil.gently for three. or. four hours, then rub the soup through a coarse sieve, and return itto the pan. When it boils it,is ready.forthetable. :« .- © Brown Bone (another way).—Slice and fry in butter half a‘ dozen carrots, with the same quantity of turnips, four potatoes, four -onions, and three’ heads of celery: Put them into a pan with five quarts of boiling. water. Let them stew four. or five hours, then rub through a sieve, season with pepper and salt, then. boil-and serve. ' . Brussels Sprouts.—Pick, trim, and wash a number of sprouts. Put them into plenty of fast-boiling water. The sudden immersion of the vegetables will check the boiling for some little time, but ithey must be brought to a boil as quickly as possible, that. they may not lose their green colour ;.add a table-spoon- ful of salt, keep the saucepam.uncovered, and boil very fast for fifteen minutes. Lose no time in draining them when sufficiently done ; and serve plain, or with a little white sauce over the top. Cost, from 2d. to 3d. per pound, according to the season. Sufficient for a dish, one pound. Brussels Sprouts, Sauté.—Wash, and drain one pound of sprouts; put them into boiling water for fifteen minutes, with, half an ounce of salt to each: gallon, and when done, dry thém on a élean cloth. Dissolve half an ounce of butter in a pan, and shake the sprouts in it over the fire for a minute or two; season them with pepper, salt, and a, little nut- meg, and serve very hot. Sprouts about’ the size of a walnut have the most delicate flavour. Sufficient for two or three persons.’ Probable cost, 3d. to 4d. per pound. ; wee Bubble and Squeak.—Dissolve two:o: three ounces of butter or beef dripping: in. a frying-pan. Cut some-thin slices.of cold boiled or roast. meat, and fry them slightly, a nice brown. Mix some cold greens of any ki with a few mashed potatoes, shred onion, if 5 | liked, salt irri Brown Butter Sauce (for boiled skate | eaves aad Meehan ake Shy eames ah ie time. Serve hot, with the vegetables round the dish, arid-the meat in the.middle.. . Fry for about twenty minutes. Probable cost, from 4d. to 6d. without the meat, . Buckwheat Cakes, American.— These cakes are seen on most American break- fast-tables. Mode of making :—To a. pint: of buckwheat-flour add a large tea-spoonful of baking-powder and a little salt. . Mix to a thin batter, using lukewarm water in cold weather. Tho frying-pan requires to be only rubbed with grease, and the batter dropped in in quantities sufficient to cover an ordinary breakfast-plate at one time. When done on one side, turn, and send to table very hot BUC ( 83 ) BUL and well buttered, or they can be: eaten with ' treacle or syrup'if preferred. ) | Buckwheat Cakes (another way).—Put a large table-spoonful of yeast into a hollow | made in.the middle of one quart of buckwheat, and work it into a light dough with warm water; cover it up warm by the fire to rise for three hours. When risen enough, the top will be cracked ; then get ready the griddle—it should | pe hot, and well buttered or greased. The’ cakes may then be proceeded with. ; Convey with a ladle as much batter as may be wanted, that is, according. to the size of the cakes; when done on one side turn, and, when quite baked, butter them as they are removed from the | griddle. A fresh.supply of butter is required | for.every cake, but it is sufficient if the griddle | be well rubbed with it... Lay them one on the | other and divide into quarters...’ Buckwheat Cakes, Raised.—Warm a quart of water. i spoonful of treacle and a tea-spoonful of, salt. Stir into it a “good table- | Mix in enough buckwheat-flour (or oatmeal or | Indian corn-flour) to make; a stiff batter, together with a table-spoonful of good ‘yeast. | Let it stand to rise before -the fire. Then | bake on a hot plate, in iron rings, like muffins, | orina slack oven. hot with butter. Bullaces (sce Damsons). Bullock’s Brains.—Lay some slices of bacon into a stewpan, with onions, carrots, chives, and parsley; ‘blanch: the ‘brains in luke-warm water, and put'them in with equal quantities of white. wine and stock broth, seasoned with pepper and salt. Stew gently for half an hour, .and.send to table with fried parsley. be oe ee ; “Bullock’s Brains. with Tomato Sauce.—Stew tlie brains as directed ‘in the preceding recipe, and when quite ready td serve, cover with tomato sauce. Bullock’s Heart (4-12 Mode).—Soak the heart for two hours in cold water mixed with a little vinegar; take out the arterial, carti- lage-and the coagulated blood Jeft in it; fill the inside ‘with bacon cut into dice, seasoned with pepper, salt; and chopped parsley.’ Tie it round with tape into its ori; shape. Stew it in a. saucepan, covered with broth, and half as much cider, if to be had; add a bunch of sweet herbs, and as many onions and carrots as there is space for. Whenit has simmered gently for four hours, lay it on a dish, put the carrots and onions round it; let the liquor boil a few minutes longer to thicken, then pour some of it over the heart, and serve the. rest in a sauce- boat.’ . If preferred, flavour the latter with mushroom ketchup and a; little red wine, which will: give to the heart the flavour of hare. Probable cost, 1s, 9d. to 3s, Sufficient for five or six persons. Ke Toast and ‘serve the cakes Bullock’s Heart, To Roast. — Soak | thé heart’ as before, fill all the. openings at the | top, or broad end, with a stuffing composed of crumb of bread, chopped suet, parsley, pepper, and salt, moistened with an egg and a little | for five or six persons. ~ milk; ‘.duspend with the: pointed end down- wards. -Baste liberally. The heart will have to be.roasted from three: to four hours, accord» ing to the size; it should be well done. Send to table with beef gravy. Probable cost, 1s. 9d. to 8s. . Sufficient for five or six persons: «5 * Bullock’s Heart, To Roast (another way).Soak the heart as before, and boil it for a while “before -roasting ; it will be less.'inidi- gestible, and will take away, to some extent, the greasé So generally complained of. Before boil- ing see that itis perfectly clean, and all the un- necessary parts cut off. Put it into hot water, bring it quickly to the boil,. and then ‘simmer one hour and a half; _; Prepare a veal stuffing; fill up the cavities, fastening them with coarse strong thread. Baste unsparingly with butter, and roast before a ‘moderate fire from:one to two hours, according to size. Serve with brown gravy and red-currant jelly. Probable cost, 1s. 9d. to 8s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Bullock’s Heart, with Onions.—Pre- pare a stuffiing of three ounces of bread-crumb, two ‘ounces of onion, parboiled and finely cut, half an ounce of powdered sage, salt and pepper to taste. Fill the heart as directed in preceding recipe. It should be served with good“brown gravy and‘apple sauce. Time to simmer, one | hour and a half; to roast, from one to two hours. Probable cost, 1s. 9d. to 3s. Sufficient Bullock’s' Kidney, Fried.—Cut ‘up a | bullock’s kidney into very thin slices, dust plen- tifully with flour, and season with pepper and salt. ‘Place an ounce of butter into a saucepan ; as ‘soon as-it begins to melt, put the sliced and seasoned kidney to it; add a little cold water, just enough to prevent burning, or, if to be had, use cider instead.’ -Add a table-spoonful of ketchup. Keep shaking and stirring over a gentle fire, but do not let it:come to a boil; if it’ does, the kidney will be hard and tasteless. The secret of success consists in not letting it cook too much, too fast, or too long. Lay bits of toasted bread-round the edge of a dish; with a spoon put the kidney in the middle, give the gravy- a boil up, and pour over it. Some’ cooks garnish with sliced lemon, and stew in ‘port or champagne; for the latter, the cider is not a bad substitute, and is more easily obtained. Bullock’s Kidney, Fried (another way). —Soak a bullock’s kidney for an hour or more in warm water. Cut it into thin slices, drain, dry, and season with pepper and salt, and dredge them lightly with flour. Fry gently till they: become a light-brown colour ; put the slices into a saucepan, doubling them a little one over the other. Make a gravy with the butter in the pan, and a small quantity of flour to thicken. Add a table-spoonful of vinegar if liked, with a tea-spoonful of sugar, stew the kidney in this | till quite tender. Time to fry, from eight to ten minutes. Probable cost, 1g. 6d, Sufticient for three persons. ; -Bullock’s Kidney, Stewed (an econo- ‘ mical dish.—Take a bullock’s kidney, remove the hard core, cutting the kidney'itself as little BUL as possible in doing so, and put in its place an onion and two cloves, Skewer the kidney securely, put it into a saucepan over the fire with a little dissolved dripping, and turn it about till it is brown all over. Pour upon it, to cover it, water that has been thickened with flour to the consistency of melted butter. Let the liquor boil, draw it back, and simmer very gently for four hours. Add pepper and salt to taste. Probable cost, 1s. ~ Bullock’s Kidney, Stewed.—Fry the slices of a kidney in butter until they become a light brown. Sprinkle them with pepper and salt. Make a gravy with the butter, a little flour, and warm water; then put the slices into the stewpan with the gravy, and stew over a slow fire until quite tender. A little mushroom ketchup may be added. Time, a little more than an hour. Cost of kidney, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. Bullock’s Liver for Gravy.— This liver may be and is used by many fried with bacon, but it is more generally used for gravy in made dishes. It is excellent for this purpose prepared in the following manner: — After being well drained, lay it in a dish with salt well spread over every side; let it stay twenty- four hours, then drain, and hang it in a dry place, to use when required. Bullock’s Tongue (a la Frangaise).— This is a very superior mode of cooking a tongue. Get together all the trimmings from poultry-heads, necks, &c., some ham, bacon bones, or veal pairings. Put the tongue into a large stewpan with these remnants, add a small quantity of water, some pepper and salt, afew cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a good-sized onion. When it has been simmering one hour, throw in a little more water, enough to just cover the tongue; simmer till done, then strain, and make a glaze of part of the gravy; lay it over the tongue, and send to table ornamented with fancily-made cuttings from boiled carrots and turnips. The remainder of the gravy will be of great use to the cook for sauces. Probable cost, 5s. to 6s. Bullock’s Tongue, Boiled.—A tongue for boiling is best fresh from the pickle; but a dry one should be soaked twelve hours. Wash BULLOCE’S TONGUE FOR TABLE, it well from the salt, and trim off any objec- tionable part. Put it into a stewpan with plenty of water, and when it has once boiled, simamer very gently till done. It is excellent, though the plan is not economical, if boiled, or ( 84 ) BUL rather simmered, from six to seven hours, and allowed to cool in the liquor; but, in the ordi- nary way, a large tongue takes from four to four and a half hours, and a small one from three to three and a half. Take off the skin and press the tongue into a round shape with a weight on the top, or fasten at each end to a board to keep it straight, if preferred. "When cold, put some glaze over it, and garnish with parsley. Probable cost, 5s. to 68. Bullock’s Tongue, Cured.—Mix well together equal quantities of salt and sugar—a large table-spoonful of each—and half a table- spoonful of saltpetre. Rub the tongue with a good handful of common salt, and let it lie all night, then drain, and wipe before adding the above mixture. Lay it out on a board, and rub the mixture all over, not omitting to put some into the hole under the tongue. It must be turned and rubbed with a little extra salt for the first two or three days; then, with a large spoon, moisten the tongue well every morning for a fortnight. A tongue thus pickled will not require any soaking. Probable cost, 5s. to 6s. Bullock’s Tongue, Cured (another way).—Procure a tongue, with as little root as possible, from the butcher; but if sent with much on, cut off before salting all that is not required to cook with the tongue, and put it into a slight pickle of salt and water to cleanse it from the slime. Next day drain and salt for a couple of days, when it will be fit for pea-soup. Prepare the tongue by sprinkling it well with salt, and letting it drain; then rub in the following mixture :—A large spoonful of com- mon salt, the same quantity of coarse sugar, half as much saltpetre, two cloves of garlic chopped very fine, and a tea-spoonful of ground pepper. The tongue should be rubbed every day for ten days, and turned ag often. i may be dried or smoked. Probable cost, 5s. 0 68. Bullock’s Tongue, Cured (another way).—To half an ounce of saltpetre, pounded, two ounces of common salt, and an ounce and a half of coarse sugar, add a little bay salt, and rub it into a tongue for eight or nine days, turning it every day. Remove it from the pickle, drain, and hang it in a warm but not hot place, to dry and harden. It may be cooked whole, or a small piece may .be cut off as required, and. oe a grated for gravy. Probable -cost, 8. to 6s. Bullock’s Tongue, Fricasseed (Ger- man).—Boil a tongue as directed, put some butter into a stewpan, and when it is of a rich golden colour, add some finely-cut onion, cloves, a slice or two of lemon, a cupful of stock, in which a small spoonful of flour has been mixed, and a glass of sherry or Madeira. Place slices of tongue in the pan with this sauce, to which may be added sardines or mushrooms (the Germans like a mixture of tastes), and simmer in the usual way for ten minutes. Serve up the slices of tongue with the sauce poured over. Time, twenty minutes to stew. Probable cost, from 5s. to 68. BUL ( 85 ) BUR Bullock’s Tongue, Larded (a la Ber- lin).—When the tongue has boiled for three hours, remove it, but do not throw away the liquor. Peel off the skin, lard the tongue with bacon, and put it into a stewpan with a little of the liquor, a few silver button onions, which have been first fried, a glass of wine, a little sugar, and flour to thicken; stew the tongue in this for an hour, then add the juice of half a lemon, and serve. Probable cost, 5s. to 6s. Bullock’s Tongue, Miroton of.—Fry some slices of onion, shallot, chives, and parsley, in butter; they should be cut small, and fried a pale brown. Add a little flour, mixed with a little good gravy, or jelly, and stir till thickish ; then,lay in slices of ox tongue, seasoned with spice and salt, and simmer for fifteen minutes. Pound some capers and an anchovy, with a little vinegar; make all hot, and pour over the tongue. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. per pound. One pound sufficient for a dish. Bullocks’ Tongues, Pickled and Baked.— Prepare the following ingre- ‘dients:—Two ounces of bay salt, one ounce of saltpetre, a few cloves, a blade of mace, and some allspice, all pounded together; add them to six ounces of salt, and three ounces of course brown sugar; mix, well, and rub it into the tongue, and turn it every day for fifteen days, then put it into the oven with some butter over it, in pieces, and a common crust over all. Bake until very tender; try it with a wooden Skewer—if it offers no resistance it is ready. Peel, and straighten it out on a board, and when cold, glaze and send to table with a ruffle round the root. Probable cost, 5s. to 6s. Bullock’s Tongue, with Pignante Sauce.—Many people forget, ‘or do not, perhaps, know, that an ox tongue may be ‘Served in many different ways besides cold boiled. The following makes a handsome dish, and where people are accustomed to continental cookery will be sure to be ap- preciated :—Wash a fine tongue in cold and then throw it into boiling water. Let it boil for half an hour; take it out, drain, and put.it into a clean pan covered with cold water. Simmer it for two hours, then add two or three carrots, turnips, a bunch of celery, and sweet herbs; simmer another hour, remove the tongue and skin it. Next, get a stewpan, and put into it some small onions, two bay-leaves, a few cloves, pepper- corns, a sprig of thyme, a slice of ham, anda scraped carrot, with about a quart of the liquor the tongue was boiled in. Place the tongue ‘in last of all, cover down tightly, and stew two hours. When done, put the tongue on a hot dish. Thicken the sauce with flour, mustard, and scraped horse-radish (a very small quantity) ; give it one boil, pour over the tongue, and serve. When too large for a small party, cut the tongue in half before stewing it.. The one half may be served as directed, and the other half may be pressed into a mould, covered with a glaze, and served cold for breakfast, lunch, &c. Probable cost of a tongue, 5s. to 6s. ‘One-half sufficient for five or six persons. ‘cooked as to ensure success. spoonful of: minced Spanish onion and half the Buns.—Directions for compounding the following buns will be found under their re- spective headings :— American Breaxrast Hanover Baru ‘Hor Cross CHESTER MAvEIRA Curistmas (Scotcr) Pram DeEvoNSHIRE Pium ENDcLIFFE ‘ Scorcu GENEVA - SPanisH Goop Fripay ‘Winpsor. GUERNSEY Buns, Light Tea.—Take one pound of flour, half a tea-spoonful of tartaric acid, and the same quantity of carbonate of soda, and work all well together through a sieve; then rub two ounces of butter into the flour, being very careful to leave no lumps. When this is thoroughly mixed, add a quarter of a pound of ‘well-dried currants, two ounces of sifted sugar, and a very few caraway-seeds. Next, mix half a pint of milk with one egg, make a hole in the middle of the flour, and pour in the milk, working it all lightly together. Do not touch the dough with the hand, or the buns will be cheavy, but place it in lumps on the baking-tin with a fork. Probable cost for a dozen cakes, 1s. Bun Pudding.—Take as-many stale buns as a dish will contain without crowding; mix a custard, allowing five eggs toa quart of milk; season it with sugar and any kind of spices. Pour the custard over the buns, and let it stand and soak one or two hours. When it is all absorbed, bake it an hour and a half. This makes a. very economical and pleasant pudding for a family where there are many children. =: Burdwan, Indian.—This dish is much appreciated in india, and almost any kind of cold meat may be used for it. Venison, however, has the preference, but poultry may be so Take a table- quantity of shallot. To this put a pint of cold water, a mild seasoning of: cayenne pepper, a table-spoonful of essence of anchovies, and an ounce of. butter, mixed with a tea-spoonful of flour. Let this sauce simmer, after it has come to a boil, about a quarter of an hour, or until the onion is tender; then add to it a table- spoonful of Chili vinegar and a glass or two of ‘Madeira. Draw the stewpan near the fire, and -place the meat into it—if a fowl, divide it into joints and strip off the skin—when hot through, draw still nearer to the fire, but it should not be allowed:to boil. If the fowl has been roasted, it may be sent to table when just on the point of boiling; but if only partly cooked before, allow it to simmer from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Many additional sauces may be used, and the juice of a lime or Seville orange pressed into it before serving; but care should be taken that no strong flavour of any particular sauce predominates. Sufficient for three or four persons. ; Burdwan Stew.—Any cold roast or boiled lamb, poultry,'or game will do well for this. Make a sauce as follows:—To half a pint of BUR ( 86 ) BUT . ‘ood in a stewpan aid a tea-spoonful of iy aa ce gee and the saine of lemon pickle, mushroom ketchup, and cucumber vinegar. : > ‘Butter, Brown.— Melt six ‘ounces of' butter’ in a stewpan over the’ fire: until ‘it’ ‘evorties 6 a Wrown’ colour, ard. then allow it tb" Become cold." Také another stewpan, and. ‘put ‘hit it a cupful of vinegar with: pepper, , “which reduce’ ons-third by boiling. “ When “the ‘butter is*'cold, add it to the: vinegar. and? "pepper, stir all “up well, and warm it “ov¥el!thd fire, caré being’ taken that it is not -allowed® to! boil. “If the butter ‘is not’ ‘cool ‘before adding it tothe: vinegar it will ‘spurt Jover the sides of the vessel. As the usual'taste vof the butter-is, ‘entirely déstroyed: by the’ heat to which it is‘ subjected; it will be found: that an article of the cheapest’ kind will’ answer’ for this ‘purpose ad well ag thé best. i rh _, Butter, Brown (German method).—Take “any atl of Aa required to be ae and put it into an iron saucepan over a slow ‘fre, ‘Stir until it assumes the colour waiited,, care that -it does: not. burn. ~What is colander. “geqtifed to ‘be ‘dipped “ih this brown butter should be prepared beforehand, and: dipped just before serving: Time, about ten minutes. Butter, Burnt Sauce. — Brown two ounces of butter ina frying-pan; stir until it is ef a good colour, then add a tea-spoonful of salt, a very little cayenne pepper, and two table- spoonfuls of hot vinegar. This sauce is recom- mended by Dr. Kitchener as excellent to serve over poached eggs or for broiled fish. Probable cost, 4d. Butter, Clarified.—Melt some butter in a perfectly clean saucepan; remove the scum, &c., ‘which will rise to the top, and let it. stand by the- side of the fire for all impurities to sink to ‘the bottom. Strain it carefully through a sieve, leaving the sediment. at the bottom of the: saucepan. Butter should be clarified before itis used to cover potted meats, &c.' When it is hot it may be used instead: of olive-oil, and is liked: better than’ oil by many cooks, both for. salads and for other purposes. Time to melt, about-three minutes.. Butter, Clarified (another way).—Dis- solve the butter before the fire, and have ready ‘a clean jar in which fo pour it. There is much ‘waste ‘in straining clarified butter,’ and_ this is not necessary if it bevstirred once ‘or twice whilst melting, then.allowed to stand and care- fully: thrown into: thé' jar, so’ as'to leave the -sediment behind. Tie it down securely to keep it from the air.“ Butter, Creamed.—To reduce butter to cream beat it in a bowl with the hand in a con- ‘trary, direction to that observed in making cream into butter. Any water or milk must be thrown off.’ Time, from fifteen to twenty minutes. “ 7 Butter, Fairy.—Blanch and. pound two ounces of sweet almonds, adding a little orange- flower water. Wash a quarter of a pound- of fresh butter, and beat it to a paste with six ‘yolks of hard boiled eggs, alittle grated lemon- peel, and sifted loaf sugar. Mix all together witha wooden spoon' and work it through a Serve it, on biscuit soaked in wine, piled up very high: Probable cost, without. wine, 1s.6d. *' | Gees ; _ Butter for Cold Dishes.—Pound the following ingredients in a mortar, and reduce them to a smooth paste :—One clove of garlic, six hard boiled yolks. of eggs, a spoontul.of ° capers, and a seasoning of mace and. allspice ; moisten with a little tarragon vinegar and a glassful of salad-oil, and then add eight ounces of butter, with spinach-juice enough to make the butter green. Pound all till ery smooth, and set it on ice to get firm, when it may be used for the decoration of cold meats, heh, salads, &c. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. to 2s., ac- cording to the price of butter. Butter, Melted.—Mix half an ounce of flour smoothly with an ounce of butter melted in a saucepan, Add a little salt and half a int of cold water. Stir the sauce, let it boil r three minutes, and it is ready,. For a detailed description of ‘the best way of making good melted butter, see PrincrpLes or CookERY, ‘ BUT (87) ‘BUT \ Butter, Melted (another way).—Take a. piece of ‘butter the size of a hen’s egg, cut it into three or four slices, arid work in as much of a dessert-spoonful of flour as the butter will take up. Put this into a saucepan with three- quarters of a pint of cold water, keep stirring in one direction as the butter melts, and dust in what remains of the flour. .When they are well mixed, smooth, and the sauce boils up, it is ready for serving. Or the lump of butter may be simply put in the saucepan, then mixed with flour to form a paste, and have cold water added to make it of the right consistency. When this method is adopted the sauce must be stirred till it boils. Good melted butter, even if smooth, should not be too thick or pasty. It, will acquire that condition by being kept waiting too long at the side of the stove. In that case it can easily be thinned by the addition of, more butter and a little warm water. : : , . Butter, Melted (simple and economical). Mix two large tea-spoonfuls of flour to a ‘gmooth paste with a little cold water, and stir dato.it half a pint of boiling water. Add a pinch of salt, and stir the sauce over the fire till i boils. Take it off the fire, mix with it a ‘piece of. butter the size of an egg, and when ‘this is entirely dissolved send to table. A small, quantity of lemon-juice can be added if for. fish. - Butter, Melted, French.—Ruba table- spoonful of flour into a quarter of a pound : of ‘good fresh butter, put it into a clean stew- pan, with a little salt, half a spoonful of white vinegar, a winé-glassful of water, and a little nutmeg. Stir it over the fire till it thickens; but the flavour will not be so good if. it boils. ‘Or, melt a quarter of a pound of butter with- out ‘flour; keep the pan in motion till quite hot.- The best butter should always be used ‘for melting purposes. Probable. cost, 1s. 6d. to 1s,.10d. per pound. o ‘Buttered Mushrooms.—Remove :the stems from young mushrooms, and rub them with salt, then rinse in salted water, and dry in a cloth. Put two ounces of fresh: butter into a stéwpan, over a'-very slow fire, and when: the ‘butter is of a beautiful pale brown,:put:in the mushrooms, and shake the pan ‘to keep them | from burning’: and the butter from. oiling. | ee tender, serve them with their own gravy, attanged high on the'dish. “It is an excellent . felish, and requires no sauce. *:. spe aes . Buttered Toast.—Cut slices rather more than @ quarter of an inch thick, from a stale loafj and toast them on both,sides before a clear, bright fire; have a hot plate ready to put them | on, and butter according to.taste, Some like it buttered on both sides. Pare off the crusts | and serve, covered up hot. For dry toast the: slicés ‘should be cut thin, and held at'a distance | "from the fire to make it crisp. A little move- mént of the hand will help this. ‘Butter Preserved with Honey. “Wash and press the butter untal it is quite free } from milk. Put-it in a jar, and place. it in| a pan of boiling water. When clarified, and ° or = ‘| squeezed from’ the vinegar. just before boiling, remove it from the water to a cool place; take off the scum, and work it up in the proportion of two ounces of honey to every two pounds of butter. This mode of preparation will be found very convenient where butter is eaten with sweet dishes. It will keep as long as salted butter if the air be ‘properly excluded from it. Butter, Ravigote (a la Gouffé).—Thie butter'is composed of the following ingredients, pounded together in a mortar :—First, blanch in boiling water for two minutes, one pound of herbs—tarragon, mixed chervil, burnet, chives, and cress-_then press out the water by squeezing them in a cloth. Put.them, with half ‘a dozen well-washed anchovies, and the same of hard boiled eggs, into a mortar, add a piece of garlic (about: the size of a pea), a seasoning of salt and pepper, two ounces of gherkins, and two ounces of capers; these last should be well When well pounded and:smoothed through a sieve they are to be mixed with two pounds of butter, two table-spoonfuls. of oil, and one. of tarragon vinegar, and again. pounded and mixed for use. Butter, Salt (Scottish method):— Put the butter into a tub of clean water, press it thoroughly with the hand or a brodd butter- beater until the water is entirely removed. Lay | it out on a board and sprinkle it with salt; an ounce to every three pounds of butter. . Work and beat it well, Then make a brine strong enough to float an egg; add two ounces of. loaf sugar, and boil it; when quite cold, put some of this prepared pickle to the butter, and press and squeeze off the water. If it dees not come off clear,-repeat the washing in fresh. pickle. The kit or tub for storing is filled up within two inches of the top with butter, the pickle thrown on it, and a, clean linen -cloth over all. The lid of the kit must then be ;well secured. | ¢ ae Butter’ Sauce.—-Season a-cupful of flour with: salt, pepper, nutmeg, and +tloves. ..Mix“t with some water into a paste, ‘and work in a piece of butter about the size of an egg. Put the thin paste into a pan over the fire, and boil itfor a quarter of an hour, then take it off, and add some fresh’ butter in small portions at a time, continually stixring the contents to pre- vent the butter from rising to the surface. After- wards add some vinegar and mix thoroughly. This sauce is used with. fish and..boiled vegetables. (See also Melted Butiter.).. ¢ on. ’ Butter Sauce, or Oiled Butter.— Take ‘as much fresh butter as ‘will’be wanted, -and melt it, but.do not let it brown. Skim it, pour’ it out,’ let it rest a minute, then drain it ‘from the curd at the bottom, add salt, and serve. This simple sauce is quickly made, and is generally much liked.. : Butter Scones.—Taked pint of thin cream, | salt it to taste, and stir it into flour enough to make a dough of the proper consistency. Knead well, roll out thin, and form into scones; prick them witha fork, and bake over a clear fire om a,griddle. Butter should-be served with,them; they. are. excellent for breakfast or.tea. 0 BUT ( 88) CAB . Butter Seasoned with Pepper.— Work up some butter with powdered pepper, and serve as soon as prepared. Butter and other spices may be prepared in a similar manner. Butter, To Keep, in Summer.—Place the butter-dish into a basin containing water, within two inches of the top. Throw a piece of muslin, which has been well wetted, but wrung to prevent any moisture dripping into the butter, over it, and allow the ends to fall into the water. Or, turn a large flower-pot, around which a woollen cloth has been tied, pre- viously well soaked in water, over the butter- dish, and stand it on a stone floor. In this latter plan all that is needed is to keep the woollen cloth moist; in the former, to change the water every day, and rinse the muslin. Butter, To Preserve without Salt.— Dissolve the butter very gently in a clean pan over the fire. All the watery particles will evaporate, and the curd—which is the cause of the butter becoming rancid—will fall to the bottom. It should not boil. Throw the butter into a clean vessel, keeping out the sediment and excluding the air by means of a bladder’ tied over the top. When cool it resembles lard. It will also lose some of its flavour, but it is superior to salt butter for culinary uses, and especially for pastry. Butter, Truffled.—To those who like the flavour of truffles, an economical method of procuring it is to dissolve a pound of butter, Skim and simmer for four or five minutes, and when the sediment settles, pour the top into an enamelled saucepan over some small thick slices of French truffles. Add a seasoning of ‘salt, pounded mace, cayenne, and nutmeg. Heat the truffles slowly and shake the pan well round; draw it aside, and stew twenty minutes, or until the truffles are tender; then remove them and pour the butter into pots for use. This butter will be an excellent addition - any mode of cooking a fowl or turkey, or for frying an: light dish of veal, hard Tad, or silage aces parations. The truffles thus prepared may be used for any sauce required for poultry, veal, tongue, sweet-breads, or other light dish; or, warmed again, they will serve as a garnish. Buttermilk Cakes.—Take one pint of buttermilk, and stir into it as much flour as will form a dough, with one table-spoonful of dissolved carbonate of ammonia. Roll the dough out in sheets, cut the cakes, and bake them in a moderate oven. The carbonate of ammonia may be obtained at any of the drug- gists; it is the common smelling-salts, without any of the aromatic drugs. It never imparts any taste to the food, as the heat disengages the carbonic acid gas and the ammonia. Buttermilk Scones or Bread.—To one pound of flour add one tea-spoonful of salt; mix fifty grains of carbonate of soda with a tea- spoonful of powdered sugar, and rub them into the flour. When they are well blended toge- ther, mix the flour into a stiff dough with some buttermilk—or milk will do—but no time should be lost in putting it into the oven, or the bread will be heavy. It requires a well-heated oven, but not a strong one. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, from 3d. to 4d. Sufficient for a small loaf. Cc Cabbage (a la Lilloise)—Wash and drain . a large cabbage, and, after removing the stalk, cut it into pieces about the size of a walnut. Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and fry in it for a minute or two a small tea-spoonful of finely-chopped onion. Add the cabbage, with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Cook it over a slow fire, and’ turn it frequently to prevent burning. Place on a hot dish and serve. Time to prepare, fifteen minutes. Pro- bable cost, 4d. or 5d. Sufficient for four per- sons. Cabbage, Boiled.—Cut off the stalk, re- move the faded and outer leaves, and halve, or, if large, quarter the cabbages. Wash them tho- roughly, and lay them for a few minutes in water, to which a table-spoonful of vinegar has been added, to draw out any insects that may be lodging under the leaves. Drain them in a colander. Have ready a large pan of boiling water, with a table-spoonful of salt and a small piece of soda in it, and let the cabbages boil quickly till tender, leaving the saucepan un- covered. Take them up as soon as they are done, drain them thoroughly, and serve. Time to boil: young summer cabbages, from ten to fifteen minutes; large cabbages or savoys, half an hour or more. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient, one moderate-sized cabbage for two persons. Cabbages, Boiled (another way). — Cut off the stalk, remove the faded outer leaves, and halve, or, if large, quarter the cabbages. Wash them thoroughly, and lay them for a few mi- nutes in water to which a table-spoonful of vinegar has been added for the purpose of de- stroying any insects that may be present. Drain them in a colander. Put them in.a large saucepan of boiling water, to which a table- spoonful of salt and a very small piece of soda have been added, and let them boil quickly for six minutes, pressing. them down two or three times to keep them well under the water. Then take them out and throw them into another saucepan prepared just like the first. Let them boil. ten minutes, and repeat the process, letting them boil the third time until tender. Serve as hot as possible, with melted butter or white sauce poured over them. Time: small summer cabbage, twenty minutes or more; large cabbage, from half to three- quarters of an hour. Sufficient, one small cab- bage for two persons. Cabbage Cake.—Boil a large cabbage till it is quite tender. Drain the water from it, and chop it small. Butter the inside of a pie- dish, and dust it with finely-grated bread- crumbs. Place on these a layer of chopped cabbage about an ‘inch thick, then a layer of cold beef or mutton finely minced and flavoured ; repeat until the pie-dish is nearly full, making the top layer of the cabbage. Lay three or four CAB ( 89 ) CAB rashers of bacon over it, and put the dish in a moderate oven. When it is heated thoroughly, and the bacon cooked, turn it out as from a mould, and pour good brown gravy round it. Time to cook, half an hour. Probable cost, without the cold meat, 2d. or 3d. Sufficient, a small pie-dish full for three or four persons. Cabbage and Bacon.—Boil a piece of pickled pork until it is about three-quarters cooked. Then take it out of the water, drain it, and place two or three rashers of bacon in the saucepan. Lay on these a cabbage which has been thoroughly washed and cut into quarters, and.put the pork over the cabbage. Cover the whole with nicely-flavoured stock; add pepper, nutmeg, and parsley, but no salt, as it will most likely be found there is sufficient in the bacon and stock. Simmer gently until the cabbage is cooked. Place the vegetables on a hot dish with the pork in the midst of them; thicken the gravy, and pour it over the whole. Time to boil the cabbage, twenty minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cabbage, Creamed.— Thoroughly cleanse two young cabbages, and boil them until quite soft. Take them out, drain, and press them between two hot plates until they are dry, when they may be slightly chopped. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan, add pepper and salt, then put in the cabbage, and turn it about for two or three minutes. When it is thoroughly heated, dredge a table- spoonful of flour over it,’ and mix with it very gradually a cupful of milk or cream. Serve on a hot dish. Time, halfan hour. Probable cost, 1d. or 2d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Cabbage Jelly.—Boil a cabbage until it is tender, place it in a colander, and drain the water thoroughly from it. Then chop it small, and mix with it a little pepper, salt, and butter. Press it into a well-oiled mould, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. Sufficient for four persons. Cabbage, Red, Pickled.—The cabbage should not be cut until it has been slightly frost-bitten. Choose a firm, hard cabbage. Re- move the outer leaves and cut it as finely as possible in cross slices. The finer it is cut the nicer will be the pickle. Put it in a large shallow dish with a layer of salt spread over it, and let it remain for twenty-four hours; then Squeeze the purple juice thoroughly from it, and place it in pickle-jars, strewing between every handful a little black pepper and bruised ginger. Fill the jars with cold vinegar, or better still, vinegar which has been boiled and allowed to become cold, and cork securely. It is ready for use at once. The French vinegar is the best for pickling. Probable cost of a good-sized red cabbage, 4d. to 6d. Cabbage, Red, Stewed. — Prepare a large cabbage as if it were gomg to be pickled. Melt two ounces of butter, or of good beef dripping, in a saucepan, lay the cab- page ‘upon it, and cover it with.a cupful of ‘vinegar and a pint of nicely-flavoured stock. ‘When it is quite tender, season it with salt and pepper, drain it, and lay it on a hot dish, and arrange sausages round and over it. If pre- ferred the cabbage may be pressed into a mould and poached eggs served with it. It will warm up again perfectly. Time, one hour. Probable’ cost, 4d. or 6d. Sufficient, one large cabbage for four or five persons. Cabbage, Savoy, and _ Brussels Sprouts.—Wash and pick off the outer leaves. Place the vegetables ina pan of boiling water, to which has been added a handful of salt and a very small piece of soda. Let them boil quickly until tender. Drain the water from them, and serve as hot as possible. Pepper slightly, and spread a little butter over them. Send a little melted butter to the table with them, but not on them. Savoys should be drained from the water, and may be pressed into the dish, and cut in squares. ‘The best way to keep greens a good colour is to put them into the saucepan when the water is boil- ing; keep them boiling fast all the time; let them have plenty of room and plenty of water ; let them be uncovered, and take them up as soon as they are cooked. ‘Time, ten minutes . for sprouts, half an hour or more for savoys. Probable cost, 2d. per pound. Two pounds will be sufficient for four or five persons. Cabbage Soup.—Put two ounces of butter or good dripping into a stewpan, and fry in it two sliced onions; brown the onions nicely. Pour on them two quarts of flavoured stock, and add two pounds of pickled pork, which must not be too salt.. Simmer gently for half an hour, and skim well. Shred finely two small cabbages, two turnips, two carrots, and a head of celery, and throw them into the boiling liquor. When the vegetables are tender without falling to pieces, the soup will be ready. Time to prepare, two hours. Probable cost, Is. 2d. per quart. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Cabbage, Stuffed.—Choose a good- sized firm young cabbage. Wash it thoroughly, and lay it in water, to which has been added a table-spoonful of vinegar. Let it remain for half an hour, then drain it, cut off the stalk, and scoop out the heart, so asto make a space for the stuffing, which may be made of sausage- meat, mixed with chestnuts cut small, or any flavouring that may be preferred. Press the forcemeat into the cabbage, cover it with leaves, which must be well tied on with tape to prevent escape. Place the cabbage in a saucepan with some slices of bacon above and below it, and cover the whole with nicely-flavoured stock. Let it stew gently for half an hour. Take out the cabbage, remove the tape, place. it on a hot dish, and strain the gravy over it. Probable cost, ‘1s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Cabbage, To ‘keep Fresh.— Have the alee *cut with two or three inches of stalk, of which the pith must be taken out without injuring the rind: Hang the cabbages up by the stalk, and fill the hollow with a little fresh water every day. Cabbages will thus keep fresh for four or five weeks. Cabbage, Turnip Tops,.and Greens. —Take ea cold greens or turnip tops, dredge CAB ( 90 ) CAK a little flour over them, and fry them in boiling butter or lard until they are slightly browned. Strew a little salt and pepper over them, and serve hot. - Time to fry, five or six minutes. Cabinet Pudding, Boiled.— Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan with ‘two table-spoonfuls of sugar and the rind of a lemon. Let it nearly boil, to extract the flavour of the lemon, then add to it four well-beaten eggs. Butter a mould rather thickly, and ornament it with stoned raisins, candied peel,-or in any other way; then fill it with alternate layers of sliced sponge finger biscuits and crushed ratatias. Put in the biscuits ‘lightly, so as not to disturb the ornamentation, When the mould is nearly full, and it is time to steam the pudding, pour the cold custard gradually over the cake. Put a piece of buttered writing paper over it, place it in a saucepan, and steam it gently for an hour. Serve with wine sauce. . Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for six persons. Cabinet Pudding, Cold.—Put half an ounce of gelatine, which has been previously soaked in two table-spognfuls of water, into a saucepan With a pint of new milk, the rind of a lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of sugay,.and . boil all together, stirring the liquid until the gelatine is dissolved. Well oil a plain round mould, and fill it with alternate layers of candied fruits, three parts crumbled . macaroons, and avoy biscuits. Add a little brandy,, fill the : mould with the milk, ‘and ilet it stand in a' cool place until: firm. Time to'set, five or six ‘hours. _ Probable. cost; 1s. 3d. Sufficient’ for ' four or five persons. ~ ‘ : Cabinet Pudding, Plain.—Butter a: plain round mould; then fill it with alternate ; dayers of rajsins, bread and butter without : grust, sugar, and a little grated nutmeg. Pour over it a pint ef new milk mixed with two well- beaten eggs; flavour and sweeten. Allow it to soak for half an hour; then place a plate on the top, and steam it for one hour. Sufficient: for four or-five persons. Probable cost, 10d. oo Coe ee re eft. Sic : , Cabinet - Pudding, Rich.— Butter. a plain round mould; fill it with alternate layers of dried apricots or candied fruits of any kind, and crumbled macaroon and Savoy biscuits. Pour! a, wine-glassful, of sherry or brandy over this; ' then make a.custard-of a pint of new milk and: the .well-beaten yolks of’ four eggs. . When: Ahis is quite cold, pour it gently and very! gradually. over the biscuits. Cover the top of ‘the mould with buttered paper, put it ina sauce- pap, and allow it to steam for.one hour. Suffi-- cient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 2s. ’ Café au Lait.Make some strong clear: coffee. - Pour it into the ¢up with an equal quantity of boiling milk; and'sweeten according | ‘to taste. .This is the coffee which is served in ‘Prance for breakfast, and it is both palatable and nutritious. Allow: one breakfast'-cupful for each person. Probable cost,'4d. per dup. Café Noir.—This ‘is the coffee which: is. handed round in small cups. after dessert in! France. It is sweetened, but neither milk or. ercain is.added. Tt should be made exceedirigly ‘strong, and will be found useful in warding: are not -pounded they should be cut powder. ‘ off the somnolency which is often the first result of a good dinner. It should-be made in the same way as breakfast coffee, allowing a | cupful of freshly-ground coffee for every four cupfuls of boiling water. Probable cost, 4d. per cup. A small cupful will be sufficient for each person. = Cakes, General Remarks on.—In making cakes, great care should be taken that everything which is. used should be perfectly dry, as dampness in the materials is very likely to produce heaviness in thecake. It is always best to have each ingredient properly prepared before beginning to mix the cake. Currants should be ‘put into a colander and cold water poured over them two or three times, then spread‘upon a dish and carefully looked over, so that’ any little pieces’ of stoné or stalk may be removed. The dish should then be placed before the fire, and the currants turned ‘| over frequently until they are quite dry. ' Butter should be laid in cold water before it is used, and, if salt, should be washed in several waters. It should be beaten with the. hand in a. bowl till :it is reduced to a cream, pouring off the water until no more is. left. _ Flour. —The flour for cakes should be:of the best quality: It should be weighed after it is sifted and dried. ope aes 4iggs.—Each egg should always be broken into a cup before itis put to the others, as this will prevent a bad one spoiling the rest. ‘The yolks and whites. should -be separated, the specks removed, and then all the yolks trans- ferred‘ to one bowl and the whites to another. The yolksmay be beaten witha fork till they are light and frothy, but the whites must be whisked fall. they-are, one. solid froth, and,no liquor re- mains at the bottom, of the bowl. The eggs should be put in a cool. place till required for use. When the whites only are to be used, the yolks, if unbroken, and kept covered, will keep good for three or four days. » Sugar.—Loaf sugar is the best to use for cakes ; it should be pounded and sifted, Lemon.—Peel should be eut very thin, as the white, or inner side, will impart a bitter fla- vour to the cakes. - : _ Almonds for cakes should be blanched by being put into boiling water, and when they have been in for a few minutes the skin should be taken off and the almonds thrown into cold water to preserve the colour. If they are pounded, a few drops of water, rose-water, or white of egg should be added in every two or three minutes, to prevent them oiling. © If the into ‘thi slices or divided lengthwise. sass any Mitk.—Swiss condensed milk will be found to be excellent for cakes when either cream or milk is wanted; but when it is used less. sugar will be required. 7 Yeast.—When yeast is used for cakes, less ‘butter and eggs arerequired. ~ —° ~ Baking Powder.—Nearly all plain cakes will be made lightér by the addition of a little baking ' Moulds for cakes should be thickly buttered, and it isa good plan to’ place some well-oiled ‘paper between the mould and the cake. CAK ( 91) CAK Baking.—8mall cakes require a quick oven | Aunt Epwarp’s Loar, Invran Megan when they are first put in, to make them rise, CHRISTMAS Loar, Lunouzon but the heat should not be increased after they | AURELIAN Love have begun to bake. Large cakes should be | Bansury Luncuron © put into a moderate oven, in order that they | Barrer, or Inpray LuncuEon, From may-be well baked in the middle before they Mean Dotcu are overdone on the outside. In order to ascer- | BEEF Luncuron, Piary tain if a cake is sufficiently baked, insert a | Brary Macaroon skewer or' knitting-needle into the centre of it, | Brean, Frrep / Macpaten — and if it comes out perfectly clean, the cake is | Breakrast, or Rotts Matapropr sufficiently ready, but if anything is sticking to | Brive ' "Manx it, the cake must be put back into the oven at | Buckwnear Meat, Movipep once. Cakes should be gently turned out of the | BurrerminK Mix, Breaxrasr mould when ready, placed on the top of the | Cappacz. Mopena oven to:dry, then laid on their sides to cool. | Cananran ' Montross They should be kept in a cool place, and in tin | Cuzap My Own canisters, closely covered. A cake keeps better | Cummpren’s NEAPOLITAN ‘when made without yeast. 5 CHRISTMAS Noun’s> Cake, Cheap and Wholesome.— | CINNAMON Oar ‘When bread is made at home, it is easy to make Crrron Oat, LancasHIRE a good' wholesome cake from the dough, of Cocoa-nut Oar WITH YrEast which a little must be taken out of the bowl | Cocoa-Nut, Pounn - _Oarmua Bannocks: after it has begun to rise. Allow four ounces Cop-FisH OraNncE ae of-butter, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, Corn-MEAL , Oswees - - alittle grated nutmeg, some chopped lemon- CorPoRATION a _Paristan wind;or candied peel, and either a quarter of a Cream PARLIAMENT pound of currants or a few bruised caraway- Cream or Rice Passover seads to one quartern of dough. Mix these Crean or Tartar: Paste ; ingredients thoroughly, dredge a little flour over Curp CuEEsz Psrricoar TaILs them, and place the bowl near the fire, covering eens Puan a it with a thick cloth. When‘well risen, put |‘~4T® oo Puivm .: it into buttered tins and bake immediately in | DB®W=NTWATER . Prom, Common a, moderately-heated oven. One quartern of oo a -,, Poutsxy, dougie te Setoug! ton eeeer aan ae Davonsiins ‘Suorr Bec Ounaes ‘Cake, Common.—Mix two and a half| Dover.’ "' Pounp . ir pounds of flour with half:a pound of brown ' Eco Powper, . Pupprne.. - . Stir in a tea-cupful of good yeast | Krecampane or CANDY QUEEN _ and ‘half a pint of lukewarm milk. Knead Fis ; ‘QuEgn’s CIxNAMON - these, well together, and set the dough near‘the | Frays | re Qurvcr,, fire to rise. - When it rises, add half a pound.of | FRencu | Ravaria ., ,. picked currants, or two tea-spoonfuls of ‘cara- | Frost, on Icing yor Rica... way-seeds, and halfa pound of melted butter in | Ggno he Rice Curse another half pint of milk. Knead again, and | Gtwozse Rusx . let'the mixtire rise once more. Put ifinto tins, | Grrman 3. ¢ > Satiy Lonys and bake th a modevate oven.. ‘Time to bake, | Giyger Cup = °''~=—- SAND’ ; about an hour.’ The above ingredients will | Gipsy 9 2. Sausage Meat te eet for two large ‘cakes. © Probable | Grmpie. -. & te s pea ae cost, 8d. each. GiovE |AVOY °‘Gake, Diet Bread.—Beat four eggs, | GoosrpeRRy’ = Score ° hen add to them 9 quarter of. pound of dried | Grawam | OO Scorcn, Curisrmas flour, and half a.pound of loaf sugar, with six GUERNSEY ho Scorcu, Drer drops ‘of almond flavouring. When these are Hare a - Scraer well mixed together, place them near the fire HAZEL-NUT’ - SEED to warn, thén pour into a well-buttered mould, Hlonry : . SmEp, Common” and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, | Honey, German ° - Seep, Pram -: half an hour. Sufficient for a small mould. | Ictne For on VRS SEED, SUPERIOR. i Probable cost, 7d. ‘ : | Inperran / + Suorr ee ; Inp1an GRIDDLE SHREWSBURY ‘Cakes.—Directions for making the follow- | Twpran Mzat, Jounny,. Smezz., ing cakes: will be found under their respective | Tpisy ee ees : headings :— Irish GRIDDLE Sopa,. ; : ABERFRAU ; American Breagrast, | Intsx LuncHEon _ SPANISH , ALBANY oR GRIDDLE * * | Trisu Seep __ _ , Sronez. wed Atmonp,.on.Maca- American VELVET JouNNY, oR JouRNEY , Sronex, SmaLp “"RooNs ~ BureakFast JOSEPHINE , Suear | ses Atmonp Cuzgss.. .. “AMERICAN WHITE KNEADED ; Sustex a Atmonp, Ictinc FoR ANNIE’S . . | Laraverre yor Dea Atmonp, Puan. -. APPLE. LgmMon | . Tipsy Atmonp, Rien’ Apple Tant oR Lemon, Rica TUNBRIDGE Alvonn, Sroncz © ATHOLE Loar Turin CAL ( 92 ) CAL TWELFTH Water Calf’s Brains, Fried (another way).— VeaL ALA BorpDYkKE WHITE Wash the brains, pick them clean, and let them ‘VENETIAN YEAST lie in cold water for an hour. Boil them in Vicroria ‘YORKSHIRE water with a little vinegar for ten minutes, cool, ‘VIENNA Yue and cut them into slices. Drain and dip them Caledonian Cream.—Mix thoroughly two ounces of raspberry jam, two ounces of red currant jelly, and two ounces of finely-powdered sugar, with the whites of two eggs which have been beaten to a firm froth. Beat them for three-quarters of an hour. This makes a very pretty cream, inexpensive and good. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small dish. Calf’s Brains (a la Francaise)—Fry eighteen button onions to a light brown in butter, stir in a table-spoonful of flour, and then add equal quantities of broth and French red wine, a quarter of a pint or more of each, put in a little salt and pepper, and simmer half an hour. Put the brains into this, remembering first to wash and skin them; boil them in salted water mixed with a tea-spoonful of vinegar for ten minutes, and lay them in cold water until wanted. Add a dozen small mush- rooms, and simmer eight or ten minutes until they are done. Serve with the sauce, and gar- nish with the onions and mushrooms. Time to boil the sauce, half an hour. Calf’s Brains (4 la Maitre d’Hotel).—Re- move the skin and the fibres from two sets of calves’ brains. Wash them several times in cold water, then place them in boiling water, adding a table-spoonful of vinegar, a little salt, and a small piece of butter. Let them boil for about half an hour, then remove and divide them. Cut some thin slices of stale bread into rounds, fry them in boiling butter or oil, place the brains on the bread, and pour over the whole Maitre d’Hotel sauce. Probable cost of the calf’s head (the brain is not sold without), 5s. to 9s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Calf’s Brains (en Matelote)—Wash the brains in several waters, remove the skin, and boil them in salt and water, with a little vinegar in it, for ten minutes. Take them out and lay them in cold water until they are wanted. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan, let it melt, mix smoothly with it a tea-spoonful of flour. Put to this three small onions sliced, then add a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a clove, a bay-leaf, half a pint of stock, and a glass of white wine. When these are mixed thoroughly together, put the brains with them, and let them stew gently until they are done. Time to stew, a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for two or three per- ‘gOS. Calf’s Brains, Fried.— Wash the brains in several waters, take off the skin and remove the fibres, then boil them in salt and water, with a little vinegar, for ten minutes. Cut the brains into slices, moisten them with vinegar, salt and pepper, dip them in a little batter, and fry in boiling oil or butter. Fry a bunch of parsley, dry it before the fire, and put it in the middle of a hot dish with the brains round it. Time to fry, four or five minutes. Suffi- cient for two persons. into a batter made with two table-spoontuls of baked flour, two eggs, and a quarter of a pint of cream; this batter should be well beaten for fifteen minutes before it is used. Half fill an iron saucepan with frying fat, make this hot, then fry each piece, well dipped in batter, till it is a pale brown colour. Send them to table with a bunch of fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and the slices of brains round it. They should be served very hot. Time, fifteen minutes to fry. Calf’s Brains and Green Sauce.— Wash the brains in several waters, remove the skin, and cut each in four pieces. Put them into a saucepan with a little salt and water, and half a gill of vinegar, and boil quickly for half an hour. Put into another saucepan a piece of butter the size of a large egg; let it melt, then mix smoothly with it a dessert- spoonful of flour, a cupful of stock, and a little salt and pepper. Let these boil up, then stir into the sauce a dessert-spoonful each of chopped mushroom, chopped gherkins, and parsley boiled and minced. Drain the brains, place them on a hot dish, and pour the sauce round them. Sufficient for two persons. Probable cost of sauce, 6d. or 7d. the half-pint. Calf’s Brains and Parsley.—Remove the skin and the fibres, and wash the brains in several waters. Boil them in salt and water, to which has been added a table-spoonful of vine- gar and a little butter. Drain and divide them. Then put a little fried parsley in the middle of a hot dish, place the brains round them, and pour browned butter over the whole. Time to boil the brains, about half an hour. Sufficient for two persons. ._ Calf’s Brains and Tongue. — Remove the skin and the fibres, and wash the brains in several waters. Boil them in salt and water, and drain and chop them. Put them in a saucepan with half a cupful of melted butter, a tea-spoonful of parsley which has been boiled and. chopped, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a little salt and cayenne pepper. Skin and trim the boiled tongue, place it in the middle of the dish, and pour the sauce round it. Time to boil the brains, a quarter of anhour. The brains of one head will serve for a tongue. Calf’s Brains with Wine.—Wash and skin the brains, and blanch them in boiling salt and water mixed with vinegar. Put. two or three rashers of bacon into a stewpan, with two sliced carrots, two sliced onions, two cloves, one bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a bunch of thyme, a little pepper and salt, and a glass of white wine. Add the brains, and let all simmer gently. When done, strain the gravy, and pour it round the brains. Time, half an hour. Sufficient for two or three persons. Calf’s Chitterlings, Fraise, or Crow. These are the different names given to the fat CAL ( 93 ) CAL round the stomach of the calf, and in some parts they form a favourite dish. They may be served in two or three ways. First wash and cleanse them thoroughly. Lay them in salt and water for a night, place them in boiling water for a quarter of an hour, then dip into cold water, and drain them. Cut them into small pieces, and put them into « saucepan with a little stock, two or three slices of bacon, an onion, a bay-leaf, and salt and pepper. Let them simmer gently, and when done place them in a hot dish, reduce the gravy, thicken it with a little flour, add vinegar and sliced cucumber, and serve as a sauce. Or, prepare as above. After being boiled a quarter of an hour, dip the pieces into a little batter, and fry them in boiling dripping until they are a light brown, then serve with fried parsley. Or, prepare as above. After being boiled for a quarter of an hour rub them over with butter, and bake in a good oven. Calf’s Ears (41a Béchamel). Cut off four calves’ ears rather deeply, trim them evenly, scald the hair off, and cleanse them thoroughly. Boil them in milk and water till tender; then drain them, and fill the inside of each with a little veal forcemeat ; tie them with thread, and stew them in aw pint of stock, seasoned with pepper and salt, and an onion with three cloves stuck init. When done,drainthem. Adda dozen stewed mushrooms, and the yolk of an egg beaten in a cupful of cream, to the liquor in which they were boiled, first taking out the onion and cloves. Put the ears into a dish, pour the sauce round them, and garnish with forcemeat balls and sliced lemon. Time to stew, about half an hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. Calf’s Ears (a la Neapolitaine).— Prepare the ears as above. Place them in a saucepan with rashers of bacon under and over, suf- ficient stock to cover the whole, and simmer gently until sufficiently cooked. When done, drain and fill them with a forcemeat made of four ounces of crumbs, a cupful of milk, four ounces of Parmesan cheese, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and the yolks of two eggs. Tie them well with thread, then dip them in butter, cover them with bread-crumbs, and fry till they are a light brown. Time to fry, ten minutes. Sufficient for three or four persons. Calf’s Feet.—Calf’s feet are generally prepared for boiling by the butcher; but if this is not done, they should be put into water just upon the point of boiling, and kept in it for two or three minutes, when the hair must be scraped off, the hoofs knocked off on the edge of the sink, the claws split, and the fat that is between them taken away. They must then be washed with scrupulous care and nicety. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Calf’s Feet and Sauce.—Thoroughly cleanse two calf’s feet; place them in a sauce- pan, and pour over them three pints of cold water. Let them simmer gently for four hours, then split them in halves, and trim nicely, cut them into neat pieces, and drain the water from them. Take a cupful of finely-grated bread- crumbs, mix with them a small onion choppe¢ small, a little grated nutmeg, a salt-spoonful of salt, anda third of a salt-spoonful of pepper. Dip the pieces into egg, then into the crumbs, and. fry them in boiling oil or butter until nicely browned. Put them in the middle of a hot dish, with a sauce round them made as follows :—Chop finely three large onions, three large mushrooms, and three tomatoes. Put these into a saucepan with a grain of powdered ginger, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, a salt-spoonful of salt, the same of mustard, a little cayenne, a small piece of sugar, and a glassful of white wine. Simmer gently, stirring all the time, till the onions are. tender. Time to stew the feet, four hours. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Calf’s Foot (a la Poulette).—Calf’s feet which have been boiled for stock may (if not too much cooked) be made into an agreeable dish by serving them in a little Poulette sauce. Take out the bones, press the meat till cold, and cutit into neat pieces. Puta piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, let it melt, then add gradually a table-spoonful of flour. Mix the paste thoroughly with a wooden spoon for two or three minutes, until it is quite smooth; then dilute it with the third of a pint of nicely-fla- voured stock, and keep on stirring for ten or fif- teen minutes. Draw the saucepan from the fire. for a minute or two, thicken the soup with the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and season with a little pepper and salt, Put the pieces of calf’s. feet into the sauce, let them become hot, without. boiling, stir in « little lemon-juice, and serve. Chopped parsley, shalots, or mushrooms should be added to this sauce. Sufficient for two feet. Calf’s Foot, Baked or Stewed.— Wash a calf’s foot very carefully, and rub it over with pepper, salt, anda little powdered cinnamon. Place it in a saucepan or dish, and cover it with a pint and a half of water. The knuckle- bone of a ham, the end of a dried tongue, or even a few pieces of beef may be added, with a little celery, an onion stuck with four or five cloves, and a carrot. Let these simmer either in the oven or on the fire for three or four hours. In either case they must be closely covered. When quite tender, take out the bones, and cut the meat into neat pieces. Strain the gravy, skimming off the fat, add to it a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and thicken it with a dessert+spoonful of ground rice. Let it boil up, then put in the pieces of meat, a squeeze of lemon-juice, a glass of white wine, and serve hot. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. per foot. One foot will be found sufficient for one or two persons. Calf’s Foot Boiled with Parsley and Butter.— Thoroughly clean two calf’s feet, divide them at the joint, and split the hoofs. Put three rashers of bacon into a stew- pan, with a piece of butter the size of an egg, a large onion stuck with five or six cloves, the juice of a lemon, and a little salt and pepper. Care must be taken not to put too much salt, as the bacon will probably supply what is neces- sary. Lay the feet on the bacon, and cover the whole with one pint of stock. Let them simmer CAL ( 94 ) CAL very, gently for three hours or more; then take | out: the feet, put them on a.hot dish, and, pour some parsley and butter over theni (see Parsley and Butter). a ~~ Galf’s Foot Broth.—Wash carefully one ealf’s foot, and put it into a saucepan with three pints ‘of water, the rind of a lemon, a lump of sugar, anda salt-spoonful of salt. If a knuckle- bone of a ham can be’ put with it, it will ‘be an improvement. Let these simmer gently together until the liquid is reduced one half, skimming it very carefully from time to time. Pitts ot Then pour it out, dnd let it stand aside to get: | cdld, so that thé fat ‘may be entirely removed. When this‘ has been done, put it back into the saucepan; let it ‘boil, add the ‘beaten yolks of two eggs, and stir the liquid again over the fire for a few minutes until it-thickens; but on no account allow it to boil. This is a very nourishing broth. If it is preferred, the calf’s foot may be boiled in milk and water. Time, three hours. | Probable cost, one calf’s foot, 4d. to 8d. Sufficient for a pint and a half of broth. Calf’s Foot Broth (another way).—Stew down a, calf’s:foot:'in three pints of water till the liquid is reduced one half, carefully re- moving. all scum. Put it'aside in a basin until quite cold, and ‘take off the fat from the surface ;) then warm up. about half a pint. of this jelly with a piece of butter the size of apigeon’s egg, and flavour it: with sugar, nutmeg, and lemon-peel to taste; beat.well the yolk of an ege', and add it to the broth, ‘stirring, it all the time till it thickens,-but do‘not let it boil or the: broth will be curdled and. spoiled.; Probable! cost, calfisfoot,:4d. to 8d. Sufficient: to make: a pint anda halfofbrothe - 1 | ai Calf’s: Foot, Curried.—Prepare two feet. asin) the last recipe, remove the bones, and cut the meat into neatly-shapod pieces. Put'a piece of butter the’ size of a large egg into a stewpan. Let it melt; slice into it two large’ onions, and a ‘sour apple. ‘Stir these over the fire till soft, then rub them through a sieve. Mix with the pulp a table-spoonful of curry paste and also a little ground rice.: Add, gradually, sufficient of the liquid in which the feet were ‘boiled to moisten the whole with- out making it too thin, put in ‘the meat; the onions, and pepper and salt to taste. Simmer all gently together for a:few' minutes ; then pile the curry in'the: centre: of a hot dish with a border of ricé round it. Time to boil-the feet,' four hours; to ‘sitamer, quarter. of an hour. Probable cost, «1s. «Sufficient for three: or. four persoms.ii¢ BG kos of | Wajeghih oe Flee h at sh ls " Calfs Foot, Fried.—A good dish may be made of two calf’s feet. which have been boiled for stock, and taken out while they are still firm. Remove the bones; and when the flesh is cold, cut it into small, nicely-shaped' pieces, which must be placed for an hour in a pickle made with two tablc-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, one table-spoontful of oil, one bay-leaf, two pinches of salt, and one of pepper. “Turn them two or three times. Take'them out, drain’ them, dredge'a little flour: over them; and fry. them in boiling butter: or oil till they. are lightly browned. Put them on a hot’ dish, and serve them: with fried parsley: . Probable’ cost, 4d.,. without: the calf’s feet.: “Sufficient for four or five persons.’ 1. Je (gs PS “Calf’s Foot Fritters.—Prepare the calf’s feet as in the last recipe, but, before they are fried, lay ‘each piecé in a light ‘bitter made thus :—Pour a’ cupful of boiling water’ over a’ piece of butter about the size ofa walnut, and when it-is melted, add‘ to it half a pint of cold water. Stir this gradually into tour ‘table- spoonfuls of fine flour, and mix'with it the'yolks of two eggs and a little salt and pepper: A few minutes before it is wanted, add the well-whisked: whites of the eggs. Half fill a stewpan with frying fat, let.this-boil; till it is still, then fry the pieces of meat in it. :Drdin thém from the fat, pile them on a hot dish, and serve them' with pickled gherkins, Time to stand in the pickle, one honr;' to fry, ten minutes: ‘This quantity: | will suffice for four:persons. Probable cost, 8d., without the calf’s feet. BY PS . Calf’s Foot Jeily.—In order’ to obtain calf’s foot jelly quite clear, care should be taken, first, to mix the ingredients when they are cold; and secondly, not to stir the. jelly after: it has once boiled and risen in the saucepan. . Take a pint and a half. of calf’s foot stock (see Calf’s: | Foot Stock), and be. very particular that it is : free. from every ‘particle: of. fat. and ‘sediment: Put it.into a. saucepan with: the strained juice and thinly-peeled rind of two-large lemons, three table-spoonfuls of pounded loaf. sugar, .a glass.of -whité wine, the: whites:and-shells of ‘four eggs (the whites must be beaten, but not to: a-froth), and half.an ounce of clarified isinglass. Let these stand for a few minutes; then put.them ‘on-a slow fire, and stir them.ia: little until the liquid boils and rises in the pan; when this ‘point is reached the jelly should not be touched again. , Let.it boil for twenty minutes; the scum. may, be gently removed as it;rises.. Draw the jelly to the side of the fire, and let it stand to ‘settle, twenty minutes longer. Wring out the jelly-bag in hot water, and pour the jelly through it., If it is not perfectly clear (which, however, if can scarcely fail to be, if attention has been paid to the directions given), strain if two or three times until it is. Do not keep it in a ‘nietal mould—it will be likely to discolour it. It should be kept in a-cool place, and in summer will most likely require a little ice round: it.. ‘If the stock be very strong, the isinglass may’ ‘be dispensed with, but it is always safer to put a little with the jelly, Wher all the' liquid has ‘run through the bag, an agreeable and refreshing beverage may be obtained by pouring a little boiling water through it.'' Sufficient for rather more than a quart. Probable cost, without the sherry, 1s. per pint. aie | Calf’s Foot Jelly, Apple.—Put a pint of apple juice into a saucepan with a. pint of clear calf’s foot stock (sce Calf’s Foot Steck), the rind and juice of a lemon, a table-spoonful of sugar, @ small glass of brandy, and the whites and pounded shélls of three egos. “Mix-‘these well together, and let them boil: gently for fifteen minutes. ‘Take the' jelly from thé fire, let it’ stand 'to’settle, and strain it through’a jelly-bag until qttite clear; then pour it into a mould. “If the stock is not very stiff, add a little cAaL isinglass. Sufficient for two and.a half pinta.of jelly. Probable cost, 1s. per pint. * ; Calf’s Foot Jelly, Lemon.—Mix a quart of strong calf’s foot stock, clear and free from fat and sediment, with a cupful of strained lemon-juice and three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, which’ has been rubbed on the rind af two lemons. Put these into a saucepan with the well-beaten whites and crushed shells of five eggs. Proceed as for calf’s foot jelly. Time to boil, by the side of the fire, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. perpint. Suffi- cient, one pint and a half of jelly for five or six people. of de ‘Calf’s Foot Jelly, Maraschino.— Take one quart of clear calf’s foot stock. Pro- esedacccrding to the directions given for making calf’s foot jelly, remembering. only to omit the sherry, and to rub the rind of two lemons on the sugar before it is added to the stock. When it has run through the jelly-bag and is quite clear, add two glasses of maraschino to’ it, and pour alittle of the jelly into a mould; let it set, then fill the mould with alternate layers of jelly, and either fresh strawberries or pre- served peaches. Put it in a cool place, and when it has set, turn it out of the mould. Time to set, two hours with ice, ten or twelve without. Probable cost, 1s. per pint, without the maraschino. A pint and half mould will be sufficient for five or six persons. ° Calf’s Foot Jelly of Four Fruits.— Dissolve one pint of calf’s foot apple ‘jelly (see Calf’s Foot Apple Jelly), ,and pour, about a quarter of it into an earthenware mould, let it nearly set, then arrange, as tastefully as pos- sible, fine fresh bunches of. white and red cur- rants, strawberries, cherries, raspberries, or any’ fruit that can be had. If fresh. fruits.are not in season, any fruits which have been preserved whole may be used instead, such.as peaches, plums, or apricots. Add the jelly and the fruit gradually before more is put in. Set it,in a cool place, and when stiff, it may be turned out. Probable cost, 10d. per pint mould... Time to set, twelve hours. BE oat : Calf’s Foot Jelly of Four Fruits (another way).—Put two pounds of ‘fresh fruit (made up half of red currants and the other half of mixed cherries, strawberries and rasp- berries) into an earthenware jar, cover it closely, then place it in « saucepan, filled three parts with cold water; let it simmer very gently over a moderate fire for half an hour; then pour the contents into a ‘jelly-bag, and let. the juice drop from it, but do’ not squeeze it. Proceed as for calf’s foot apple jelly, substituting the juice of the four fruits: for apple juice, and omitting the brandy. Time to set, twelve hours. Probable cost, 1s. per pint. Sufficient, a pint and’ti half of jelly for five or six persons. a Calf’s Foot Jelly, Orange.—Put .a quart of strong calf’s feet stock. into a sauces pan with a pint of the strained juice of oranges, the juice of two lemons, u quarter of a pound of sugar, on which the rinds of the lemons have been rubbed, half an ounce of melted isinglass, and the whites and crushed shells ( 96 ) CAL of five eggs. .,Proceedias for calf’s foot jelly, Three or four grains of; saffron’ will’ im. prove the appearance of the dish:. If it is preferred, the mould may be filled with alter- nate layers of jelly and quartered coranges, as directed in a previous recipe. Time to set, two hours with ice, ten ot twelve without it. Probable cost, 1s.’ per pint. ‘Sufficient, a pint and half-mould for five or six persons. Calf’s Foot Mould.—A relishing break- fast dish may be made of the meat of calf’ | feet after they have been boiled for jelly, broth, stock, &c., if not overdone. Take out all the bones, and cut the meat of one foot into small pleces, mixing with it the juice.and vind of 2 lemon, a small onion finely minced, and flavour- ing it with salt, cayenne, and powdered cinnamon. Put it into a saucepan with a piece of butter the size of an egg, stir it over the fird for about ten minutes, and pour it into a mould. Probable cost of a calf’s foot, 4d. to 8d. Sufficient for'a small breakfast: dish. NEN Calf’s ‘Foot, Roasted.—Boil two calf’s feet for one'hour and a half, then take them out of the saucepan, drain the water’ from them, tic them together, and fasten them on a spit. Baste freely. with alittle broth, which has not been cleared from fat, and when they have been before the fire about half an hour, dredge them with flour, baste with butter, and allow them to remain until they are nicely browned. ‘When sufficiently cooked, place them on a hot dish, and pour round them a little brown sauce flavoured with port. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost, calf’s feet, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Ba A 1 3 Calf?s Foot Soup.—Cut two calf’s feet into about twelve pieces, and put them into a saucepan, with half a head of celery, a bunch of parsley,.a small sprig’ of thyme, an onion with five or six ‘cloves stuck into it, and two quarts of nicely-flavoured stock. Simmer all gently together, skimming the liquid carefully, for two hours. Take out the feet, strain. the liquor, return it to the saucepan, and thicken it with two dessert-spoonfuls of finely-sifted rice flour. A few minutes before the soup ‘is wanted, add pepper and salt, and stir gradually into it a cuptul of milk or cream, mixed with the yolks of two eggs and a glass of white wine. Stir’ it over the fire for two or three minutes, but on no, account allow it to boil. Serve, with the pieces of calf’s ieet, in the tureen. Probable cost, 7d. per pint, if made with milk, and. exclu- sive of the wine. Sufficient for three pints of soup, ; aa © Calf’s Foot, Stewed.—Wash and clean two calf’s fect very carefully. ' Cut them into pieces, and put them into a saucepan with a pound and a half of beefsteak, cut inpieces and rolled in flour, a head of celery, ‘and an onion, stuck: with cloves. Cover them with ‘stock, or water if the stock is not at hand, and let them simmer gently for: three hours. Take them off the fire, strain the gravy, and. skim off the fat; then boil the gravy up again with a cupful of new milk and a little salt and pepper. _Put-in'the pieces of meat to héat, but do.not allow them to boil. Serve with the meat CAL ( 96 ) CAL in the middle of the dish, and the gravy poured round. Two feet will be sufficient for three or four persons. Calf’s Foot Stewed with Herbs.— ‘Wash a calf’s foot. When it is thoroughly clean, boil it in a quart of water until the flesh can be easily taken from the bone. Remove the bones, and cut the flesh into small, evenly- shaped pieces. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a stewpan, let it melt, then put into it the pieces of meat, having previously salted, peppered, and rolled them in flour. Let them remain in the boiling butter until they are nicely browned; put with them two small onions, a dozen mushrooms chopped finely, and a bunch of savoury herbs; mix the stock in by degrees, and let them simmer gently for half an hour or so; then add the juice of a lemon, and three well-beaten eggs. Do not allow the liquid to boil again after the eggs have been added. If the sauce is not sufficiently thick, a little more flour may be mixed in before the, eggsand vinegar. Ifany of the liquor in which the meat was boiled is not required for the sauce, it will be found very useful for gravies, &e. Calf’s Foot Stock, Cheap Substi- tutes for.—Ox heels may be used instead of calf’s feet for stock. They should be bought ‘before they are boiled at all. They are fre- quently offered for sale when they are partially dressed, and must be very carefully cleansed. They may be bought for 4d. or 5d. each, and as two calf’s feet will produce a quart of stock, and two cow’s heels three pints, it is a decided saving to use the latter. Ten shank bones of mutton, which may be bought in some parts very cheap, will yield as much jelly as a calf’s foot. Calf’s Foot Stock for Jelly.—Take four calf’s feet properly dressed and cleansed. Put a gallon of water into a saucepan with the feet, and let them boil very gently but con- tinuously until the liquid is reduced to half. Strain it, and let’ it stand until stiff. Then remove every particle of fat from it, pouring a cupful of boiling water over it, and placing a piece of blotting paper on the top after you have taken it off to insure its being quite free from grease. Remember to leave the sediment behind when you use the stock. Time to boil the feet, six or seven hours. Calf’s Head.—It is better to order a calf’s head a. day or two before wanted, especially if only half a one is required, and a half is sufficient for a dinner for a small family. The heads are sold by butchers either skinned or unskinned, and if they are sent home unskinned great care must be taken to scrape the hair off as closely as possible. To do this the head must be put into water which is just upon the point of boiling, and remain there for a few minutes after it does so, then taken out and the hair scraped off with a blunt kmife, the head divided, and the brains and tongue taken out. The head must be most carefully washed. The first thing to do, on receiving « calf’s head, is to remove the brains, throw them into cold water for an hour, drain them, and boil them in salt and water for a quarter of an hour, and put them on one side. Put the head into cold water and wash it well, clearing the cavities inside with the fingers, lay it in fresh cold water, and leave it there to draw out the blood, &c. One of the choice bits of a calf’s head lies deep in the socket of the eye. It. is always best to cook a calf’s head as soon as possible, and while it should be thoroughly cooked, it should not be overdone. It ought to be served in slices; and to secure this it should be bound with a little broad tape. When it is to be served, lay it, cheek upwards, on the dish as it comes from the water, or brush it over with beaten egg, dust bread-crumbs over it, and brown it. The brains and tongue should be sent to table with it on a separate dish; and a dish of ham or bacon is considered by many persons an im- provement. Calf’s head is usually garnished with sliced lemon. Probable cost, 5s. to 9s. Calf’s Head (@ la Poulette).— Take a dozen good-sized mushrooms, cut off the end of the stalks, and rub the tops with. a piece of flannel dipped in salt. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a stewpan, let it melt, and put in the mushrooms. Shake them over a hot fire for a few minutes, turn them into a basin, and keep them covered until they are wanted for use. Cut the remains of a cold calf’s head into nicely-shaped slices, and lay them on one side. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, let it melt, mix with it very smoothly a dessert-spoonful of flour. Stir it until it is lightly browned; add to it very gradually, stirring all the time, a large breakfast-cupful of boiling stock, and a. little pepper and cayenne. Let this boil up, add the mushrooms, and boil the sauce gently for a quarter of an hour. Put in the meat, and let it simmer till quite hot; draw the sauce- pan to the side of the fire, let it cool for two. minutes, when the beaten yolks of two eggs may be mixed with it. Stir the preparation over the fire till it thickens, but on no account allow it to boil, and at the last squeeze in the juice of half alemon. Serveonahotdish. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, without the cold meat, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Calf’s Head (a la Maitre d’Hotel).—Take the remains of a cold calf’s head, and cut it. into neat slices, leaving out the bones, &c. Make. some Maitre d’Hotel sauce, consisting of half a pint of good melted butter, mixed with two dessert-spoonfuls of parsley boiled and chopped, ' the juice of a small lemon, and a little salt’ and pepper. Let this boil, then put in the pieces. -of calf’s head, let them become quite heated, without ‘boiling, and serve on a hot dish, gar- nished with sippets of toast. Calf’s Head (a la Poulette).—As before, take the remains of a cold calf’s head, and cut it into neat slices, leaving out the bones, &c.. Make a sauce, as follows: Melt an ounce of butter in a small saucepan, and mix smoothly with it a dessert-spoonful of flour, a quarter of a pint of stock or water, and a little salt and cayenne. Stir the sauce over the fire till it boils, draw the saucepan from the fire for a. couple of minutes, and add, very gradually, the yolks of two eggs mixed with a cupful of CAL cream or milk, Stir the mixture over the fire for a minute or two, but on no account allow it to boil; add a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, some chopped parsley, and five or six small mushrooms. Make the meat hot in the sauce and serve. Probable cost of sauce, 1s, Suffi- cient for half a pint of sauce. Calf’s Head (4 la Sainte Menehould).— Take the remains of a calt’s head boiled in the usual way. Cut them into slices, and pour over these a sauce prepared as follows :—Dissolve an ounce of butter over the fire, and mix smoothly with it half a dessert-spoonful of flour; add a little salt and pepper, and either a quarter of a pint of water, or as much nicely-flavoured stock as will make the sauce as thick as cream. Sim- mer this sauce over the fire for a few minutes. Draw the saucepan to the side, let its contents cool for half a minute, and stir into these the well-beaten yolks of three eges. Cover the calf’s head with the sauce and a thick layer of bread-crumbs. Pour over these a little clari- fied butter, and more bread-crumbs. Place the dish in a Dutch oven, brown the surface before the fire, and serve with sauce piquante. Time to make the sauce half an hour. Suffi- cient for six or eight persons. Calf’s Head (a la Tortue).—This dish, which is elaborate and apparently difficult, will not be found to be beyond the power of any one who can please the eye as well as the palate, and, after having flavoured a dish judiciously, can arrange it elegantly. Procure a large calf’s head, properly prepared: Scald it with the skin on. Remove the brains, which must be boiled, chopped, and made into cakes, with bread-crumbs, chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and egg. They can then be put on one side and fried in a little hot butter just before they are wanted. Boil the head in the usual way (see Calf’s Head, Boiled) till it is sufficiently tender to allow the bones to be taken away without altering the shape of thehead. Donot take away the tongue, as it will help to preserve the form. Take a large stewpan, melt three ounces of butter in it, and when it is brown, mix smoothly with it two table-spoonfuls of rice flour. Add just enough of the liquor in which the head was boiled to cover the meat, but before putting the head in, season the sauce with salt, cayenne, nutmeg, four large tomatoes stewed, and two glasses of sherry. Letit boil up, then put in the calf’s head, and when this is hot itis ready to serve. Now comes the arrangement of the dish, and for this no clear directions can be given; it must be left to the taste of the cook, and depend greatly on the materials at command. The brain cakes, of course, must be used, and they may be heated in the sauce, as also may button mushrooms, forcemeat balls, the yolks of eggs boiled hard, sliced truffles, cock’s-combs, real or artificial. On and about the head may be placed fried eggs, crayfish, prawns, gherkins, cut into balls and soaked in cold water a little before they are wanted. The ears may be scored and curled, and little stars or diamonds of puff paste fried in butter may be dotted about the dish. The truffles, prawns, &c., may be fastened on with silver skewers. It is generally found 7—N.E. (97 ) CAL day before the gravy, Sufficient for ten or better to boil and bone this dish the it is wanted. Time to stew in three-quarters of an hour. twelve persons. Calf’s Head (a la Tortue), another way.— The remains of a cold calf’s head may be cut into small squares, warmed in a little good gravy, and ornamentéd in the same way as the last dish. Make the sauce rather thick, put the meat in the middle of the dish, and garnish as prettily as possible with forcemeat balls, the yolks of hard boiled eggs, and the whites cut into rings, gherkins, olives, and stewed mushrooms. Time to oa the meat in the gravy, a quarter of an hour. Calf’s Head, Baked.—Take half a calf’s head. Prepare it as if for boiling, removing the brains and tongue. Let it simmer gently for half an hour, then take it out of the water, drain it, and fold it in a cloth to dry. Prepare abreakfast-cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, mix with them two salt-spoonfuls of salt, half a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper, two dessert- spoonfuls of finely-shred sage, and the same of parsley. Brush the head over with beaten egg, and strew the bread-crumbs, &c., over it; let it get dry, then repeat, the second time pouring hot butter over instead of brushing with egg. Fill the hollows of the eyes with crumbs. Bake the head in a good oven, basting it frequently with a cupful of sauce mixed with a dessert- spoonful of vinegar. The tongue and brains maust be boiled separately, and cut into pieces, and a little time before the head is sufficiently baked, must be strewed with the crumbs and put into the oven to brown. Serve in a hot dish, with a little gravy round the meat, and oyster sauce in a tureen. Time to bake, two hours. Sufficient, half a head for four persons. Calf’s Head, Baked (another way).— Boil half a calf’s head in the usual way until tender; then drain it, pour a little hot butter over it, and strew over it rather thickly some grated Parmesan cheese, and put it in a good oven until it is nicely browned, which will be- in about three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient, for four persons. Calf’s Head, Boiled (with or without the Skin).—Thoroughly cleanse a calf’s head, remove the brains, and put it into boiling water for ten minutes, to blanch it. Take it out, and lay it in a deep saucepan with sufficient water to cover it; let it boil up, remove the scum very carefully as it rises, draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently until ready. Wash the brains in two or three waters, remove the skin and the fibres which hang about them, and let them soak for an hour in cold salt and water; pour that away, and put them into a saucepan with some fresh water to which a table-spoonful of vinegar has been added. Take the scum off as it rises, and boil them for a quarter of anhour. Chop them rather coarsely, and put them into a saucepan with a cupful of good melted butter, a table-spoonful of sage leaves chopped small, the same of scalded and finely-minced parsley, a little salt and pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Take out the CAL tongue, skin it, trim it about the roots, and lay | it in thé middle of a hot dish with the brain sauce round it; keep it hot. The appearance of the calf’s head will be improved if after it is taken up it is brushed over with egg, covered with finely-grated bread-crumbs,. and browned. Slices: of cut lemon are usually placed round the dish. A little boiled bacon or pickled pork is sent to table with it, as well as either parsley and butter, tomato or mushroom sauce, in a tureen. Time to boil, with the skin on, two and a half or three hours, according to the size; without, one and a half or two hours. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. The liquor in which it is boiled should be carefully preserved ; for though a calf’s head is insipid if eaten cold, it is excellent warmed, and for this the liquor would be needed. ‘Calf’s Head Brawn. — Take half a large calf’s head with the skin on. Wash it well, take out the brains and the soft bone, and lay it ‘in a'pickle made of one pound of salt, a quarter of a pound of bay salt, half a pound of moist sugar, and one ‘ounce of saltpetre, boiled in three quarts of water for twenty minutes, skimmed, ‘and put aside until cold. Let it stand in this for eight days, turning it every day. Take it out, wash it well, and boil it gently until tender. Remove the bones, and put the meat while hot into a brawn-tin, flavouring it with salt, pepper, pounded mace, and'a little cayenne. Put a heavy weight on it, and let it stand until firm. Turn it out and garnish’ with parsley. Time, threc or four hours. ‘Sufficient for six or seven persons. Calf’s Head Cheese.—Take the re- mains ‘df a’ cold calf’s head, remove the bones, and chop all the meat—lean, fat, skin, and tongue—into small pieces. Put these into a stewpan.with a little salt and pepper, the rind half ‘a fresh lemon, a little powdered cin- namon, and all the brain-sauce that is left. Cover the whole barely with some of the liquor in, ‘w. ich the ‘head was boiled, and simmer it gently, stirring it every now and then, for twenty minutes. Remove the rind, and put the rest into'a mould which has been soaked in cold water; put a plate and weight over it, and when it is cold, turn out. It will make a nice breakfast or supper dish, or can be used for sandwiches. Probable cost, 2d., without the cold meat, &c! Sufficient, a small mould for a breakfast. dish. : : Galf’s Head, Collared (to serve cold). —Take ‘a’ calf’s “head,. properly prepared, re- move the brains, and put it into boiling water for a quarter of an hour to blanch it; wash it thoroughly, put it into cold water, and boil it until the bones can be removed. Bone and lay it flat onthe table, and sprinkle over it, in alternate layers, six table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, some ground pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, pink ham cut into slices, and the yolks of six eggs boiled hard, sliced, and dotted here ‘and there. Roll the head as tightly as possible, fié it in a cloth, and boil it gently for four hours,. Take it out, drain, and put it under a weight, and do not remove the cloth and bandages until it is cold. ( 98 ) CAL Calf’s Head, Collared (to serve hot). —Take a calf’s head, properly prepared, blanch and boil it until it is sufficiently tender to remove the bones. When they are taken out, lay the head on the table, and spread on it a forcemeat made of the brain, the tongue, and some of the meat cut from where it is thickest, mixed witha table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of thyme, a tea-spoonful of mar- joram, the pounded yolks of three eggs boiled hard, two spoonfuls of brandy, and a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roll the héad as tightly as possible, and tie it in a cloth, binding it with tape. Put it into a saucepan with sufficient stock to cover it, and add a carrot, a parsnip, two or three onions, some slices of lemon, a little thyme, four bay-leaves, and salt and pepper. Let it boil gently for three hours, then take it out of the cloth, and pour round it a sauce made of a pint of the liquid in which it was boiled, mixed with a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, a table-spoonful of chopped gherkins, and a little lemon-juice. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Calf’s Head Collops. — Cut a cold calf’s head into small neat slices about the third of an inch in thickness. Strew over these a large dessert-spoonful of minced parsley and a little salt and cayenne. Make some good thick batter, dip each piece of meat into it, and fry it in boiling butter or oil until nicely browned. Serve the collops very hot, piled high in a dish, and accompanied with lemon- ° juice and cayenne. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d., without the cold meat. Sufficient, allow two or three collops for each person. Calf’s Head, Curried.—Cut up the remains of a calf’s head into pieces about an inch square, and lay them on one side. Put a piece of butter about the size of a large ege into a saucepan; let it melt, then slice into it two large onions, and fry them until lightly browned on both sides; take them out, and stir a dessert-spoonful of curry powder gradually and smoothly into the butter, and afieninnde a small cupful of good stock. When the sauce is quite smooth, add the cold calf’s head and onions; let the mixture boil ten minutes, and just at the last squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. Put it into the centre of a dish, with a border of rice round it, boiled as for other curries. If necessary, a little more stock may be added, but curries should not be watery. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Calf’s Head, Dappled.—Boil a calf’s head until the bones come out easily; take them out, and lay the flesh on a dish, with another dish over it, and a weight on that, so that the head may be oval and flat. When cold, divide it into halves. Brush it over with well- beaten eggs, and over one half strew finiely- grated bread-crumbs mixed with salt and cayenne, and over the other, finely-grated bread-crumbs with an equal quantity of finely- chopped parsley and sage. Bake it in a good oven until it is lightly browned, basting it fre- quently with a little stock. Serve it on a hot CAL dish, and send it to table with two tureens of sauce—one of parsley and butter; and the other-made of half a pint of good gravy mixed with the ‘brains boiled and chopped small, a flavouring of salt and cayenne and a squeeze of lemon-juice. Time to bake, three- quarters of an hour. Sufficient for six or eight persons. : ., Calf’s Head, Fricasseed.—Cut the re- mains of a cold calf’s head into slices about a quarter of an inch thick, and lay them aside until wanted. Put a pint and a half of the liquid in which the head was boiled into a saucepan with a salt-spoonful of salt, half a ‘galt-spoonful of pepper, a bunch of savoury herbs, and an onion stuck with four cloves. Let these simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour; then strain the liquid, and pour it into a jar until wanted. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan; let it melt, then mix with it very smoothly a table- spoonful of flour, and afterwards, very gra- dually, the strained liquid. Put the meat in, let it boil, draw it from the fire for a minute or two, and mix with it the beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir it over the fire till it thickens, but do not allow it to boil. Before serving, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon. Time, ‘one hour and a half. Probable cost, exclusive -of the cold calf’s head, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Calf’s Head, Fried.—Cut the remains of.a cold calf’s head into pieces about an inch anda half wide. Lay them for three hours in a pickle made of two table-spoonfuls of lemon- juice, the same of white wine, salt, pepper, and powdered cinnamon. Take them out, drain them, and dip each piece into a batter. them in boiling fat till they are a bright brown, and pile them in a pyramid on a hot dish. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d., without the wine. Calf?s Head, Hashed.—Cut the remains of a cold calf’s head into nice slices about a quarter of an inch thick and three or four inches. long, and set them aside until wanted. Take the remains of the brains and beat them up with a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, a salt-spoonful of finely-shred lemon-rind, and a ‘little salt and pepper. Make this into cakes, and fry them in hot fat till they are nicely browned. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan; melt it, then mix with it very smoothly a table-spoonful of flour, half a pint of well-flavoured ‘stock, a little pepper and salt, and cayenne, and the liquor from a score of oysters, or, what will be very good, though not as good, « table-spoonful of the ‘liquor from a tin of oysters; 1ét this boil up, add the pieces of head, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a score of oysters, fresh or tinned. Let all simmer until quite hot, but the preparation must not boilagain. Serve the meat in the middle. Pour the gravy over, and ‘arrange, alternately, fried bacon and the brain cakes round it. Time altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the meat, with fresh oysters, 2s. Gd.; with tinned oysters, 1s, 4d. ‘Sufficient for four or five persons.’ (99 ) CAL Calf’s Head Hashed (another way).— Cut tho remains of a cold calf’s head into neat slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness and three or four inches square. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan; let it melt, then fry two largo onions in it cut into dice, and when they are lightly browned take them out, and mix very smoothly with the butter, one table- spoonful of flour, and a cupful of the liquor in which the head was boiled. Add the onion and two table-spoonfuls of pickled gherkins, chopped small, then the pieces of cold calf’s head. Let all simmer gently for two or three minutes; serve as hot as possible. A glass of sherry is an improvement. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. ' Calf’s Head, Hashed (another way).— Cut the remains of a cold calf’s head into neat slices, dip them in egg and grated bread-crumbs, and put them aside until they are wanted. Place the bones, gristle, and trimmings into a saucepan with two pints of the liquor in which the head was boiled, and put with them an onion stuck with four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and the thinly-peeled rind of half a lemon, with a little saltand cayenne. Let these simmer gently until reduced to half; then strain the gravy, and mix it with any of the sauce or brains that may be left, and if these are not sufficient to thicken it, add a little rice flow. The addition of a little white wine is an improvement. ‘Let these simmer gently together for ten minutes. Fry the pieces of meat which are already pre- pared, place them in the middle of the dish, and pour the gravy round them. The egg and bread-crumbs may be omitted, and the pieces of meat put in the sauce to warm, and little pieces of bacon warmed with it. Time, one hour to simmer the bones and gravy; ten minutes to boil all together. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for four or five persons. Calf’s Head, Mock Turtle Soup of. —Take half a calf’s head with the skin on, remove the brains, wash it in two or three _ waters, and boil it gently for an hour and a half. ‘Take off the skin, cut it and the flesh into pieces about ‘an inch and a half square, and throw them into cold water. Drain, and put them into a saucepan, cover with stock, and let them simmer gently for another hour and a half. Put three quarts of nicely-flavoured stock into a separate stewpan, and with ita tea-spoonful of minced thyme, a tea-spoonful of marjoram, four bay-leaves, three lessert- spoonfuls of chopped parsley, half an ounce of: whole pepper, half an ounce of salt, three onions with four cloves stuck in them, half a head of celery, and two table-spoonfuls of mush- room ketchup. Let these simmer slowly for two hours. Strain the liquor, thicken it with two table-spoonfuls of flour, mixed with a little cold water, and added gradually, then pour it into the same saucepan as the meat, add half a pint of sherry, eight or nine forcemeat balls (one for each person), the hard-boiled yolks of five eggs, and the juice of a lemon. Let all simmer for a few minutes, and serve. The forcemeat balls should be made by mixing CAL ( 100 ) CAL well together the brains, « breakfast-cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a little salt, pepper, nutmeg, and parsley, three ounces of butter, and two eggs. Form them into balls about the size of a nutmeg, fry them in boiling oil or dripping, and drain them from the fat before they are added to the soup. ‘Time, four hours. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per quart, with- out the wine. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. (See also Turtle Soup, Mock.) Calf’s Head Mould.—Cut the remains of a cold calf's head into neat slices. Make some clear savoury jelly with gelatine (see Aspic Jelly, Economical). Put a little of the jelly at the bottom of a plain mould which has been soaked in cold water. Let it set a little, then arrange the pieces of meat in the mould, making them look as nice as possible with a little parsley, pieces of ham or tongue, rings of hard- boiled egg. Leave space between the pieces of meat for the jelly to run through. Nearly fill the mould with the meat, pour the jelly over it, and put it in a cool place till stiff enough to turn out. Time, twelve hours to set. Suffi- cient for a breakfast dish. Probable cost, 1s. for a moderate-sized mould, exclusive of the meat. Calf’s Head Pie.—An excellent pie may be made of calf’s head. Take one properly prepared, and boil it until the bones can be taken out. Line the edge of a large pie-dish with a good, light crust, put in the pieces of meat, the tongue at the top, season it with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, pour over it a cupful of the liquor in which the head was boiled, cover it with a thick crust, and bake in a good oven until nicely browned. While it is baking put the bones of the head into a sauce- pan, with a quart of the liquor, a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, an onion chopped small, and half a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper. Let it simmer gently until it is reduced to half, then strain it, and add two table-spoonfuls of mush- room ketchup and a glass of port. Mix the brains with three or four sage-leaves, chopped small, a little nutmeg grated, and an egg. Make them up into little cakes, and fry them in hot frying fat until they are nicely browned. Put them in the oven to keep warm, with a sheet of blotting paper under them to drain off the fat. Have ready also four or five hard- boiled eggs. When the pie is sufficiently cooked, take off the crust, and lay the brain cakes and the eggs, cut into rings, on the top; pour the boiling gravy over all, and fasten the crust on again with the white of an egg before sending the dish to table. Time to bake, an hour and a half or more. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Probable cost, from 6s. to 11s. Calf’s Head Ragotit.—Boila calf’s head, and while the flesh is still firm, take it up, cut it into niee slices, about half an inch thick, and as large as possible. Dust these on both sides with flour, salt, and grated nutmeg. Have a saucepan ready, melt two ounces of butter in it, and fry the pieces of meat, and as each piece is lightly browned, put it into a stewpan. When all the pieces are fried, mix a table-spoonful of flour very smoothly with the butter left.in the pan, and add gradually to this a breakfast-cupful of the liquid in which the head was first boiled, and a wine-glassful of sherry or Madeira. Season the ligour with the juice of half a lemon, and a little cayenne. "When this sauce is quite smooth, pour it over the meat, and let all simmer together for about ten minutes. Arrange the meat nicely on a hot dish, and pour the sauce round it. Garnish either with brain cakes or toasted sippets. Time, to boil calf’s head, one hour anda half. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Calf’s Head Ragofit (ancther way).— Wash half a calf’s head thoroughly, and boil it for about three hours. Take it up, drain it, and score the outside skin in diamonds. Brush it over with well-beaten egg, and strew over that a cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a table- spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a salt-spoonful of cayenne. Put it in a hot oven, or place it before the fire to brown, and, before sending it to table, squeeze over it. the juice of a large lemon, and cover completely with melted butter. Sufficient for four or five persons. Calf’s Head, Roasted.—Wash a calf’s. head, remove the brains and the tongue, and simmer it gently for three-quarters of an hour. Take it out of the saucepan, and fill it with good veal forcemeat. Sew it up, or fasten it securely with skewers, bind it with tape, and put itdown to roast. Baste it constantly, serve good gravy with it, and, before sending it to: table, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it. Boil the tongue and brains, and serve them on a separate dish, with a few rashers of bacon round them. Time to roast, two hours. Sufii- cient for eight or nine persons. Calf’s Head Soup.—Take half a calf’s head, properly prepared, and as fresh as it can be got. Wash well, and soak it in cold water for a couple of hours. Take it out, drain it, and put it in a saucepan with three quarts of cold water, and let it simmer gently for three hours, when it may be taken out, and set on one side until wanted. Put two leeks, two carrots, two turnips, all peeled and sliced, two: onions with four cloves stuck in them, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, half a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt into the liquor. Let these stew gently for another hour, and keep- skimming all the time. Strain the soup, and remove the fat, which must be put into a frying- pan, melted, and two large onions sliced into it. Let these brown, add a little of the liquor, and mix with them, gradually and very smoothly, three “table-spoonfuls of rice flour, and a salt- spoonful of the essence of anchovies. Add the rest of the liquor, little by little, and the calf’s head cut into pieces about an inch and a halt square, and let all boil together for five or six minutes. Serve with toasted sippets. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. per quart. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Calf’s Head, To Carve.—Commence by making long slices from end to end of the CAL ( 101 ) CAL cheek, cutting quite through to the bone, according to the dotted lines from a to B. With each of these slices serve a cut of what CALF’S HEAD FOR CARVING. is called the throat sweetbread, which lies at the fleshy part of the neck end. Cut also slices from cto Dp; they are gelatinous and delicate, and serve small pieces with the meat. A little of the tongue and a spoonful of the brains are usually placed on each plate. The tongue is served on a separate plate, surrounded by the brains, and is cut across in rather thin slices. Some persons prefer the eye. It isremoved by a circular cut marked by dotted lines at fz. First put the knife in slanting at Fr, inserting the point at the part of the dotted line, and driving it into the centre under the eye; then turn the hand round, keeping the circle of the dotted line with the blade of the kmife, the point still in the centre. The eye will come out entire, cone-shaped at the under part, when the circle is completed by the knife. The lower jaw must next be removed, beginning at c; and to do this properly the dish must be turned. The palate is also considered a dainty, and a little of it should always be offered to each guest. Calfs Head with Mushrooms.— Take half a calf’s head with the skin on, wash it in two or three waters, and boil it about an hour, or until the bones can be removed with- out very much difficulty. Remove the bones, replace the brain, and put the head into a stew- pan with the skin downwards, and just cover it with good brown gravy, season it with salt and cayenne, and let it simmer. for half an hour. Rub two dozen button mushrooms with a flannel and a little salt, cut the ends off the stalks, which must be separated from the mushrooms, and then put them into a stewpan with a little hot butter, and boil them in it for five minutes, taking care that they do not stick to the pan. Drain them, and put them into the gravy, which may be thickened with a little ground rice, and stew all together for another hour. Serve with veal forcemeat balls, and a few rashers of fried bacon. Time, two and a half hours. Probable cost, 5s. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Calf’s Head, with Oysters.—Boil half a ealf’s head in the usual way, remove the brains, and only just cover it with water, fla- vouring it with two onions stuck with five or six cloves, two bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of marjoram and thyme, and a little’ salt and cayenne. When the head is tender, take it out, strain the liquor, thicken a large breakfast-cupful of it with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and add the liquor from two dozen oysters, and a breakfast-cupful of milk. Put in the head and simmer again for half an hour. Just before serving, put in the oysters; let them get hot, but do not allow them to boil or they will be hard. Serve with the oysters round the dish. Time, two hours. The ex- pense of this dish will be much lessened if tinned oysters are used. Sufficient for six or seven persons, Calf’s Heart, Roasted. — Wash the heart thoroughly in several waters, then leave it to soak for half an hour. Wipe it dry, and fill it with good veal stuffing, tie a piece of oiled paper round it, and roast it before a good fire an hour and a half or more, according to the size. Before serving, take off the paper, sprinkle some flour over it, and baste it well. Send it to table with plenty of good brown gravy, and some fried bacon on a separate dish. Calf’s Kidney.— The kidney of a calf may be made into balls, fried in hot butter or oil, and served with good brown gravy and toasted sippets. They must be chopped and made up with bread-crumbs, chopped onions, butter, salt, cayenne, and a beaten egg. Time to fry, ten minutes. The kidney is usually sold with the loin. Probable cost, kidneys, 6d. or 8d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Calf’s Liver ae Paté de Foie Gras). —Soak some calf’s liver for half an hour, then dry it in a cloth,and cut it into thin slices, each of which must be dipped in egg, and minced herbs, salt, and pepper strewn oyer it. Place a layer of these at the bottom of the dish, then a layer of bacon, and over these some sliced truffles and hard-boiled eggs. Repeat until the dish is full. Pour some good gravy over the whole, cover with a light crust, and bake in a moderate oven. Do not overcrowd the meat in the dish, as there should be plenty of jelly. It must be eaten cold. Time to bake, one hour and a half. One pound of calf’s liver will suffice for four or five persons. Calf’s Liver, Stewed.—Take two or three pounds of liver, soak it in cold water for about twenty minutes, then put it into a stew- pan with a little melted butter, andlet it brown lightly ; pour off the fat, and cover it with some nieely-flavoured stock, and let it stew very gently for a couple of hours or more. Thicken the gravy, and put a couple of glasses of port into it, and the juice of a lemon, or, if pre- ferred, white wine. It is an improvement to lard the liver before putting it into the stew- pan, or finely-minced herbs may be strewn over it after browning. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 10d. por pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. (See also Liver, Fried.) Calf’s Pluck.—Stuff the heart with a veal forcemeat to which a little bacon has been CAL added, and fasten the liver and lights securely round it. Put it before a moderate fire, and baste it well while it is roasting. When it is cooked enough, put it on a hot dish with melted butter, which has been flavoured with a glass of port and the juice of a lemon, round it. Time to bake, from two to three hours, Pro- bable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. Calf’s Pluck (another way).—Stuff the heart as in the last recipe, and bake it in a moderate oven with a little boiled vermicelli Jaid over it. When it is sufficiently cooked, put it on a hot dish, slice and fry the liver, lights, and a few rashers of bacon, and place them round, and pour a good brown gravy over the whole. Time to bake, two hours, or ac- cording to size. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. Calf’s Sweetbreads.—Calf’s sweet- breads should always be soaked, for an hour or two in cold water, which must be changed once or twice, then put into boiling water for about ten minutes, till they are firm and round but. not hard; take them out and put into cold water again until they are wanted to be dressed. This should be done whether they are intended to be stewed, fried, roasted, baked, or cooked in any other way. Calf’s Sweetbreads, Baked.— Pre- pare the sweetbreads as above. Dry them, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, place two or three lumps of butter or nice beef dripping on | and around them, and bake them in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour, basting. them frequently during the process. Serve them on a slice of toast, and pour a good brown gravy round them. Sufficient, two sweetbreads for three persons. Calf’s Sweetbreads, Baked (another way).—Prepare the sweetbreads as above. Take them from the cold water, wipe them dry, brush them over with egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, sprinkle a little butter over them, and bread- crumb them again... Put them with two ounces of dissolved :butter in a baking-tin, and bake them in a quick oven. Baste them frequently till done enough. Drain them, put them ona hot dish, and pour a good brown gravy round but not over them. . Time to bake, from half to three quarters of an hour, till brightly browned. Probable cost, varying with the market. Suf- ficient, two sweetbreads for three persons. Calf’s Sweetbreads, Stewed.—Put two sweetbreads, prepared as above, into a stewpan with some nicely-flavoured stock, and let them simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour or more. Take them out and place them on a hot dish. Draw the gravy from the fire for a minute or two, and add to it very gradually the yolk of an egg and four table- spoonfuls of crcam. Put this over a gentle fire until the sauce thickens, but do not allow it to boil. Just before serving, squeeze into it the juice of a lemon. Sufficient for three persons. _Calf’s Tails.—Cut four calf’s tails in pieces an inch and a half long, fry them in ( 102 ) CAN boiling fat till they are lightly browned, then stew them in good gravy till they are quite tender. Serve them with thick brown sauce round them, and some stewed mushrooms on a separate dish. When mushrooms cannot be obtained, put a table-spoonful of ketchup into the gravy. Time to stew, two hours. Probable cost, 9d. each. Sufficient for six persons. Cambridge Drink.—This agreeable and refreshing beverage is made by mixing equal quantities of home-brewed ale and soda-water. Ginger beer may be used instead of soda- water. Cambridge Milk Punch.—Put the thin rind of half a small lemon into a pint of new milk, with twelve or fourteen good-sized lumps of sugar (if the Swiss milk is used, the sugar must be omitted). Let it boil very slowly to draw out the flavour of the lemon, then take it from the fire, remove the rind, and stir into it the yolk of an egg mixed with a table-spoon- ful of cold milk, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and four of rum. Whisk these thoroughly. together, and when the mixture is frothed, it is ready to serve. Time to prepare, half an hour. Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of the brandy. and rum. Sufficient for a pint and a half of. punch. Camomile Tea.—Pour a pint of boiling water over five drachms of camomile flowers. Let them soak for ten minutes, and then strain. If taken warm, camomile tea acts as a gentle emetic. When taken cold it is often bene- ficial in cases of dyspepsia, hysteria, and head-ache.. Camp Vinegar.—Chop small two cloves. of garlic, and put them into a quart bottle with four tea-spoontuls of soy, six of walnut ketchup, and half an ounce of cayenne. Fill the bottle with vinegar, and let it remain for three weeks; then strain and bottle it for use, being careful to seal the corks. Probable cost, 7d. per pint. Sufficient for a quart. ' Camp Yeast.—Boil four quarts of water with two ounces of hops and half a pound of flour for twenty minutes, stirring it all the time. Strain the liquid, and mix with it half a pound of sugar, and, when it is lukewarm, half a pint of fresh yeast. Put it in a warm place to ferment. Pour off the thin liquor from the top, and bottle it for use. Time to ferment, eight hours. Probable cost, 3d. per pint. A cupful - yeast will be sufficient for four quartern oaves. Canadian Cakes.—Mix thoroughly one pound of the best flour, quarter of a pound of maizena, three-quarters of a pound of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Rub in three-quarters of a pound of butter, and add eight eges well beaten, half an ounce of candied peel chopped. very small, a wine-glassful of brandy, and half a pound of currants. Beat these ingredients well together, and put the mixture into shallow tins, which must be lined with paper dipped in oa bala nat and ae in a good oven. Timo ake, half an hour. Proba’ Sufficient for four cakes. i CAN (103 ) CAN Canadian Cobbler.—Half fill a soda- water glass with pounded ice, and add half a small lemon sliced, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and two glasses of sherry. Mix well together, and drink through a straw. Time to make, a few minutes. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for one person. Canadian Pudding.—Mix six table- spoonfuls of maizena or Indian corn-flour, one quart of milk, and the thin rind of half a lemon, in a saucepan, and let it boil, stirring all the time. Let it cool; then mix with it four eggs well beaten, and a little sugar, and pour it into a well-buttered mould which has been garnished with raisins placed in rows. Steam if for two hours, and serve with wine sauce. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for six persons. Canapés.—Take slices of the crumb’ of bread about half an inch thick, and stamp them out in rounds, ovals, or diamonds, then fry them in boiling oil or butter till they are lightly browned. These form the foundation of the canapés. They may be seasoned and garnished with anchovy, shrimp, or lobster paste, toasted cheese, hard-boiled eggs, cucumbers, beetroot, parsley, salad, cresses, celery, gherkins, prawns, crayfish, or salmon. A combination of two or three things gives them a handsomer appear- ance. They should be dished on a napkin and garnished with parsley, &c. Time to fry, ten minutes. : Canard (aux Pois)—Take the remains of cold duck, and cut it into neatjoints. Lay these in a stewpan with half a pound of the breast of bacon, cut into. pieces.about an inch square, and about two ounces of butter.. When lightly browned, cover the meat with nicely-flavoured stock, which must be thickened with a spoonful of flour, and add a bunch of parsley, two or three green onions, pepper and salt to taste, and a small piece of sugar. Let these simmer gently for twenty minutes, add one quart of freshly- gathered young green peas, which have been thoroughly washed in told water, and simmer again until the peas are sufficiently cooked. Skim the fat from the gravy, and serve the peas in the middle, the pieces of duck round them, and the gravy in a tureen. Time, one hour. ' Probable cost, about. 1s.. 6d., exclusive of the cold duck. Sufficient for four or five persons. Canard Farci.—Bone a duck, and fill it with a forcemeat made with three large onions boiled and chopped, three small apples, finely minced, a -breakfast-cupful of bread-crumbs, a table-spoonful of sage, a.tea-spoonful each of mustard, sugar, and salt, as much pepper and powdered mace as will stand on a sixpence, and a deasert-spoonful of lemon-juice. Secure it firmly. Tie it in a cloth, and stew it gently. until sufficiently cooked in some good stock. Serve it with green peas or mashed turnips. Time to stew, one hour. Probable cost, from 2s. to 3s. each. Sufficient for three persons. Canary Cream.—Put a pint of milk into a saucepan, with a little sugar, and the grated rind of half a lemon. When boiling, pour it upon the beaten yolks of three eggs. Return it to the stewpan, and stir it over a slow fire till the eggs thicken, and be very careful that it does not curdle. When cool, stir in a small glass of sherry or brandy to flavour it, and serve in custard glasses. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 7d., exclusive of the wine, Suf- ficient for a dozen small glasses. Cannelon ( la Frangaise).—Mince’ a pound of underdressed beef and half a pound of bacon, and mix them well together, season with a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg; a tea-., spoonful of chopped parsley, and the same of marjoram and thyme., Bind all together with beaten egg, form the mince into a roll, tie some white oiled paper round it to keep it in shape, and bake it in a moderate oven. When suffi- ciently cooked, take off the paper, put the roll in w dish, and pour .good brown gravy round it. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. ee cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold: meat. Cannelons (see Beef Cannelons). Cannelons (a la Poulette).—Take the re- mains of cold chicken and half the quantity of! cold ham; mince and mix them thoroughly with a little good white sauce. Roll out some good light paste about. a quarter of an inch in thickness, cut it into pieces two inches long and one inch wide. Place a little of the mix- ture on half of these pieces, and with the others cover each one; press the edges, and round them. Fry them in hot fat. Drain, and serve ona napkin. Time to fry, a minute or two, till they are lightly browned. Probable cost, 4d. each, exclusive of the cold meat. | Cannelons, Glazed.—Cannelons may. be’ , baked instead of fried. They are made exactly. in the same way, excepting that just before they: are sent to the oven they must be brushed over: - lightly with a paste brush which has been dipped into a well-beaten egg. Time, ten. minutes. Sufficient, one pound of puff paste for a large dish, : Cannelonsof Brioche Paste.—Brioche paste may be substituted for puff paste in making cannelons. The paste must ‘be rolled very thin, and they should ‘be served hot an dry. . Cannelons, or Fried Puffs.—Make | some fine puff paste (see Puff Paste). Roll it.. very thin, and cut it into ‘pieces two inches _, wide and sixinches long. ‘Place a tea-spoonful, . of jam on each piece, and roll it over twice, ; Press the edges (which: must be brushed with. , CANNELONS, “a water or the white of egg), and fry the canne.’ lons,in hot fat, When they begin to brown, CAN ( 104 ) CAP draw them to the side of the fire, or the pastry will be sufficiently browned before it is cooked through. Drain them well by laying a piece of blotting paper on a dish before the fire, and placing them on it for a minute or two, Ar- range them in a pile ona napkin. They may be made with any sort of jam, or with fresh fruit. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient, one pound of puff paste for a large dish. Canterbury Puddings. — Melt two ounces of butter, then stir into it gradually two well-beaten eggs. Add two ounces of sugar, two ounces of flour, and a little lemon-rind. At the last moment stir in a pinch of baking powder, Half fill buttered cups with the batter, and bake in a well-heated oven. Serve ona dish with wine sauce poured round. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Capers.—The bottle in which capers are kept should never be left without the cork. They should also be kept covered with the liquor, or they will spoil, and on this account it is better to use a spoonful of white vinegar, in- stead of the liquor, in making sauce. The flavour cannot be fully extracted unless the capers are bruised. Probable cost, 1s. per pint: bottle. Caper Sauce, a Substitute for.— Pickled gherkins, pickled nasturtium pods, French beans, or green peas, cut small like capers, may be used as.a substitute for them. The nas- turtium pods are by many persons considered preferable. When none of these are at hand, parsley may be boiled slowly to take away its greenness, and cut up into pieces, not chopped small. Proceed in the same way as with capers. Time, one or two minutes tosimmer. Probable cost, the same as for capers; parsley will be cheaper. Sufficient, a pint of sauce for a leg of mutton. Caper Sauce for Boiled Mutton.— Take about half a pint of good melted butter, and stir into it one table-spoonful and a half of chopped capers and two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar. Stir the sauce over the fire, simmering it very gently for about a minute. Serve in a sauce tureen. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for three or four persons. Caper Sauce for Fish. — Stir three dessert-spoonfuls of chopped capers and one dessert-spoonful of vinegar into half a pint of melted butter; put it ona gentle fire, and when the sauce is simmering, stir in a dessert-spoon- ful either of the essence of anchovy, mushroom or walnut ketchup, and season rather, highly with cayenne. Time, two minutes to simmer. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two pounds of fish. Capillaire.—Put two ounces of freshly- gathered maidenhair (Adiantum capillus ve- neris) into a jug, and pour over it sufficient boiling water to cover it. Let it stand on the hob or hearth, to infuse like tea, for some hours; then strain it, and put it into a clear syrup made by boiling together three pounds of sugar and three pints of water; add two table-spoon- fuls of orange-flower water, and stir it over the fire for afew minutes. Run the liquid through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear, and when cold bottle it for use. Cork it securely, and seal the corks. Time to infuse the fern, ten hours. Probable cost, 8d. per quart, exclusive of the maidenhair. It makes an excellent and agree- able flavouring for all kinds of beverages. Capillaire (another way).—Put two ounces of American capillaire into a pint of boiling water, add a pound of sugar, and when it has stood some time, the white of an egg, and boil it to a thick syrup. Strain it, and when it is cold, flavour it with a table-spoonful of orange- flower water. Bottle it and sealthe corks. Time to infuse, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 5d. per pint, exclusive of the capillaire. Capillaire, Imitation.—Mix wella quart of water with five pounds of sugar, two eggs beaten, and the shells putin. Boil all together, and skim the liquid thoroughly ; strain through « jelly-bag, and flavour it with two table- spoonfuls of orange-flower water. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. for this quantity. Capillaire in Punch.—A small bottle of capillaire is a great improvement toa bowl of punch; ora pleasant summer drink may be made by putting a wine-glassful into a tumbler, with the juice of half a lemon, and filling up with water. Capon, The.—Capons, to be tender, ought to be killed a day or two before they are dressed, and in cold weather, more than that time may be allowed to intervene between killing and. cooking. When the feathers can be easily pulled out, the bird is ready for the spit. They should be managed precisely in the same way as turkeys, and the same sauces may be sent to table with them. They may be had all the year, but are cheapest about October and November, and largest at Christmas. Capon, Boiled.—Draw and truss a fine capon, and tie a sheet of oiled or buttered paper over it. Lay it in a saucepan, with sufficient water or stock to cover it, and put with it an onion, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little salt. Stew it gently, and when done, take it up, and lay round the dish on which it, is served four or five small cauliflowers. Pour a little béchamel over it. ‘Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Capon, Roast.—Truss a capon firmly for roasting. Fasten some oiled paper over the breast, and roast it before a good fire. When sufficiently cooked, take it down, place it on a hot dish with watercresses round it. Send some goodgravy to table with it. Time, to roast, one hour. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d.to 4s. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Capon, Roasted with Cream Stuf- fing.—Truss a capon for roasting. Boil: the liver, and mince it as finely as possible. Pour a little cream over a cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Let them soak for half an hour. Shred finely four ounces of suet, a tea-spoonful CAP (105 ) CAP of scalded parsley, and four or five button mushrooms cut small and fried. Mix these- well together with a little pepper and salt, and add the yolks of two eggs. Stuff the capon with the mixture, and roast it before a clear fire. Serve with sauce flavoured with chopped gherkins. Time to roast, one hour. Probable cost, 28. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Capon, Roasted with Trufiies.— Clean, wash, and peel some truffles, and cut them in slices about a quarter of an inch thick; them in butter, and season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Put them inside the capon, fasten some buttered paper over it, and roast it before a clear fire. This dish is frequently served without any sauce, but, if liked, a little may be sent to table with it made of good melted butter, flavoured with « quarter of a pound of truffles, peeled, and pounded in a mortar, with half an ounce of butter, and pressed through a sieve. Time to roast, one hour or more. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. each. i Capon, Stewed.—Blanch and boil, as if for curry, three-quarters of a pound of Patna rice. While it is cooking, fry three sliced onions in three table-spoonfuls of butter or dripping, and with them a fine capon cut into joints. When fried, put the fowl and the onions into a stewpan, with sufficient nicely-flavoured stock to cover them, and let them stew gently until tender. Mix a little of the gravy with the rice, season it, then spread it on a dish, and lay the stewed capon upon it. Thicken the gravy, and pour a little of it upon the dish, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Time to stew, about an hour. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Capon, Stewed (4 la Francaise).—Draw, and truss for boiling,a fine capon. Rubit over with a little lemon-juice, and put it into astew- pan with some slices of bacon under and over it. Cover it with some nicely-flavoured stock, salted and peppered, and additionally flavoured with an onion stuck with three or four cloves. Let it stew gently for an hour, then take it up, strain the gravy, and thicken it with a little flour and butter, and add a glass of white wine. Pour the gravy round the dish, and serve. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 4s. Capon, Stuffed and Roasted.—Shred four ounces of suet very finely, and mix with it half the quantity of ham, half a pound of bread- crumbs, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and the same of marjoram and thyme, two or three grains of cayenne, a little salt and pounded mace, and an inch of lemon-rind finely chopped. When these are thoroughly mixed, bind them together with two eggs, well beaten. Stuff the capon with this forcemeat, cover it with but- tered paper, and roast it. Baste it frequently. Serve it with some good brown gravy an bread-sauce in a tureen. Time to roast, one hour. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 48. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Capon, Stuffed with Chestnuts.— Pare a dozen large sound chestnuts, and blanch them like almonds. Stew them very gently for twenty minutes. Drain and pound them; then mix with them the liver of the capon boiled and finely minced, two table-spoonfuls of fine bread- crumbs, 4 piece of fresh butter the size of a small egg, half a tea-spoonful of lemon-rind, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a salt-spoon- ful of salt and the same of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Bind the forcemeat together with the yolks of two eggs. Fill the capon with this mixture, cover it with oiled paper, and roast it before a good fire. When it is sufficiently cooked, brush it over with beaten egg, dredge fine bread-crumbs over it, and brown it. Serve with half a pint of good melted butter, to which has been added three chopped gherkins. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 4s. each. Time to roast, one hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Capon, To Truss for Boiling.—Pick the capon very clean; singe it if necessary. Cut off the neck and the claws, and draw the bird, being very careful not to break the gall- bladder,’ as it would make anything that it touched very bitter. Preserve the liver and. the gizzard. Fasten back the skin of the neck with a skewer. Press the feet down closely, with the fingers loosen the top skin of the legs, and put the legs under. Put the liver and the gizzard in the pinions, then pass a skewer through the first joint of the wing, the middle of the leg, and through the body, and fasten the wing and the leg on the other side with the same skewer. Turn the wings over the back, fasten a string over the legs and _ the skewer to keep everything in its proper place. Make a little slit in the apron of the fowl, and put the parson’s nose through it. Capon, To Truss for Roasting.—Cut off the claws and the first joint of the wings, and make a slit at the back of the neck just large enough to admit of the bird being drawn. Preserve the liver, and the gizzard; and be care- ful not to break the gall-bladder. Turn the wings under, bring the legs close, twist the head round with the bill to the breast, and pass a strong skewer through the wing, the middle of the leg, the liver and gizzard, the body, the head, and the wing and leg on the other side. Tie the legs close to the apron with some strong thread. Truss the bird as firmly as pos- sible, and place a piece of oiled paper over the breast before roasting. When it is intended to stuff the capon, the head may be cut right off, and the skin of the neck skewered over. Capsicum, Essence of.—To one pint of brandy or rectified spirits of wine add one ounce of the best cayenne pepper. Let it infuse for three weeks, then pour off the clear liquid, and bottle for use. It is very convenient to have this essence for the flavouring of sauces, &c., as the taste is equally and quickly diffused by stirring a little with some boiling sauce. Cayenne varies so much in strength, that the quantity to be put with each pint of sauce or gravy must be regulated by the taste of the cook. Capsicums, Pickled.—Capsicums may be pickled either green or red. They are finest, apd ripest in September and October. CAP ( 106 ) CAR f they can be obtained from the garden it is est to gather the pods with the stalks before hey are red. Put the capsicums into a jar. soil sufficient vinegar to cover them, allowing heaped tea-spoontul of salt, and half an ounce £ powdered mace, to every quart of vinegar. ‘our this, while hot, upon the pods, and when old, tie down closely with a bladder. They rill be fit for use in five or six weeks. Pro- able cost, 4s. 6d. to 6s. per hundred. Captain’s Biscuits.—Put a pinch of salt rith as much flour as may be required, and rake it into a paste with a little new milk. ‘nead it thoroughly till it is firm and stiff, hen divide it into balls, and form into cakes bout a quarter of an inch in thickness. Prick hem with a fork, and bake for about fifteen rinutes. Carachi.—Pound a head of garlic, and put it ito a jar with three table-spoonfuls each of wal- ut pickle, mushroom ketchup, and soy, and two 3a-spoontfuls of cayenne pepper, two tea-spoon- als of essence of anchovies, and one of pounded 1ace. Pour on these one pint of fresh vinegar ; » them remain in the liquid two or three days, 1en strain, and bottle it for use. Sufficient or one pint anda half. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. er pint. Caramel, or Burnt Sugar.—Put a uarter of a pound of finely-sifted sugar into -preserving-pan, place it on a moderate fire, ad stir it with a wooden spoon till it becomes quid; then stir it constantly until it is a dark rown. Add one pint of cold water. Draw ; to the side of the fire, and let it simmer ery gently for a quarter of an hour longer. train, and bottle for use. If the fire is too erce, the caramel will be discoloured. This rowning should be added to the sauce the last’ ving. Time, forty minutes. Probable cost, kd. per pint. "When wanted, pour a few drops 6 a time into the tureen until the colour is ‘hat is. required. Caramel, or Sugar for Sweets, &c. -Put one pound of sugar into a preserving- an with half a pint of cold water. Let it stand wee or four minutes, then place it on the fire, ad let it boil, skimming and stirring it con- antly. It will be first a syrup, then begin to ubble and look white, when, if it is intended wr caramel, it must have the juice of a lemon irred in with it, or it will turn to sugar again. ‘ip a stick into it, then plunge it into cold ater, and when the sugar which drops from ae stick snaps like glass, it is ready. It ust be poured out instantly. If it is to be sed for sugar spinning, the pan must be placed 1 another of cold water. Have the moulds sady oiled, and throw the sugar over in threads ith a fork or spoon. ‘Caraway Biscuits.—Rub a quarter of a ound of butter into a pound of flour, then add quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, three gs well beaten, and a few caraway seeds. lake the mixture into a stiff paste, adding a ttle water. if necessary. Koll it about a aarter of an inch thick, stamp it out in rounds, id prick these with a fork. Place the biscuits 1 floured tins, or on a wire frame, and bake them in a quick oven,abont ten minutes. Pro- bable cost, 8d. per. pound. Caraway, Brandy.—Dissolve half a pound of finely-sifted ginger in one quart of: brandy, and sprinkle on the top one ounce of whole caraway seeds. Let them remain for ten days in the jar, then strain the liquid and bottle it for use. This makes an excellent .stomachic. Probable cost, 8d. per pint, exclusive of the brandy. Cardoons.—Cardoons have long been em- ployed in French cookery, and are now a good deal cultivated in England, but ‘they require such rich seasoning that they are scarcely fit for domestic cookery., The stalks of the inner leaves are the parts which are eaten. They’ should be cut into strips about four inches long, and the prickles removed witha flannel. They are generally blanched for use. Cardoons, Boiled.—Choose a few heads of sound white cardoons. Cut them into pieces about six inches long, remove the prickles, and | blanch them in boiling water for a quarter of an hour. Scrape off the skin and tie them in bundles. Cover them with nicely-flavoured stock, and boil till tender. Drain them, and serve on toast, with plenty of good melted butter. Sufficient, five or six heads fora dish,’ * Cardoons, 'Fried.—Proceed as above, and when the cardoons are tender,, melt a little butter ina, pan, drain the cardoons, dredge a little flour over, and’fry them till they are nicely browned.'. Send good melted butter to, table with them. Time to fry, ten minutes. Sufficient, five or six heads for.a dish.. a Cardoons, Stewed.—Prepare the car- doons as above. Then put them into a stewpan and cover with a little good gravy, and stew very gently till tender. When sufficiently cooked, thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, season with cayenne and salt, and add 4 glass of sherry. Put the cardoons on a dish, and pour the gravy over them. Sufficient, five ° or six for a dish. -" yl a Carp.—Carp is a pond rather than a river fish, and requires a thoroughly good sauce to' be | served with it. It is not often offered for sale, but is very useful for families residing’ in the’ country, as it may frequently be obtained when no other fish ¢an be. The-best,carp are those of amedium size. They are better to be kept a day’ before they.are used. Froni May to November they are not good for food. The head is con... sidered the best part. Owing: to their habit of; burying themselves in mud, the flesh of these . fish has often a disagreeable muddy taste; -in-; cleaning them, therefore, care should be taken to: - remove the gills, as they are always muddy, to . rub a little salt down the back+bone, and to;lay’/ them in strong salt and water for a couple of - hours; then -wash them in. cleay; spring. water. A good plan also is to put a piece: of the crumb of bread with the fish, and remove it before it is served. ‘There is a small species: of this / fish called the Crucian carp which is good fot nothing. Carp, Baked.—Clean and scale a carp. Make a forcemeat with. eight oysters, bearded‘ CAR (107 ) CAR and chopped, three boned anchovies, a tea- spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, half a shallot chopped small, a pinch of salt, a quarter of a salt-spoonful of cayenne, a pinch of powdered allspice, and two table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Put these in a saucepan with a piece of butter the size of an egg, stir all well together with the yolk of an egg till it is stiff and smooth, then fill the fish, sew it up-to prevent the forcemeat escaping, brush it over with beaten egg, and strew bread- crumbs upon it. Pour oiled butter over it, cover it with stock, and bake for one hour. Place the carp on a hot dish, and thicken the gravy in which it was baked with a little flour and butter, season it with cayenne, a tea- spoonful of mustard, and a table-spoonful of Worcester sauce, and the last thing, squeeze in the juice of alemon. Garnish with lemon and parsley, and serve the sauce ina tureen. Suffi- cient for two. persons. Carp, Baked (another way).— Wash, scale, and draw the fish. Squeeze over it the juice of two lemons, and let it remain in this for an hour, turning it at the end of half an hour. Put it into a dish, pour upon it three ounces of oiled butter, and strew over it two minced shallots. Cover it with oiled writing-paper, and bake it gently, basting it frequently. When it is nearly baked, melt three ounces of butter ina stewpan, and stir smoothly into it a table- spoonful of flour and a cupful of boiling water, a small salt-spoonful of salt, and a little cayenne. Let the sauce boil; then add to it gradually half a pint of new milk or cream, and, at the last moment, draw it from the fire and add the juice of a lemon. Mince finely four large gherkins, stir them into the sauce, and pour it- over the fish. Time to bake, one hour. Sufficient for two persons. : Carp, Boiled.—Wash, scale, and draw a carp, preserving the liver and roe. Put it into boiling salt and water, allowing a table-spoon- ful of salt to two quarts of water, and let it boil gently, till it is ready. Make a sauce with half'a pint of the liquor in which the fish was boiled, a cupful of port, two shallots finely minced, two boned anchovies, a table-spoonful _of soy, salt and cayenne. Let these boil gently till the anchovies are dissolved, then thicken the sauce with flour and butter, and add the liver finely minced. Garnish with the roe fried, and slices of lemon. Time to boil, from twenty. to thirty minutes. Sufficient for two persons. Carp, Boiled (au bleu). — Clean and draw the carp. Cut it into convenient-sized pieces, put it in the fish-kettle with a large onion stuck with four cloves, some salt, pepper, and scraped horse-radish, and two bay-leaves. Pour over it equal quantities of boiling vinegar, port, and water, allowing sufficient liquid only to cover the fish. Let it boil gently until sufficiently cooked, skim it well, let it get cold in the liquor, and serve on a napkin. Time to boil, from twenty to thirty minutes. Sufficient or two persons. ~ ; Carp (en Matelote).— Wash and prepare acarp, and if obtainable, an eel, and cut them into pieces about an inch and a half long. Put three ounces of butter into a saucepan, let it melt, then fry in it one dozen small onions, Dredge in a table-spoonful of flour, and stir in smoothly and very gradually a cupful of red wine, and the same of broth. Add salt and cayenne, two bay-leaves, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a clove of garlic. Let all simmer gently for a few minutes, then put in the pieces of eel, and, ten minutes afterwards, the carp, with the roe. Simmer for a quarter of an hour more. Remove the herbs and the garlic, and pour the sauce hot over the fish. Time, three- quarters of an hour. Probable cost of the eel, 6d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Carp, Fried.—Clean and empty the fish, dry it well with a cloth, split it open and lay it flat, being careful to remove the gall-stone, which will be found in the head, or it may give a bitterness to the dish. Dredge it well with flour, and sprinkle salt and cayenne over it, then fry it in plenty of hot butter or dripping till it is lightly browned. Lay it on some blot- ting paper to drain off the fat. Garnish with fried sippets, and the roes, ‘also fried. Serve. with anchovy sauce. Time, about twenty minutes. Sufficient for two persons. Carp, Fried (another way).— Cut a carp into convenient-sized pieces or fillets; sprinkle over them a little salt, pepper, pounded mace, two small onions finely minced, 2. tea- spoonful of parsley, and one of lemon and thyme. Put them into a stewpan, and squeeze the juice of two lemons over them. Place the carp on a gentile fire, and partly cook it, moving it about constantly, until it has imbibed the flavouring. Take it out, drain it, dredge flour over it, and fry in hot lard or butter. Squeeze, over it the juice of alemon. Time, about forty minutes. Carp, Grilled.—Scale, gut, and clean the carp. Rub them over with oil, wrap them in well-oiled writing paper, and broil. Serve with sorrel round them, and a little sauce inadish.. They are more tasty if some finely- minced herbs are put inside the paper, which may be either taken off or left on. A little lemon-juice should be squeezed over them. Grill for about a quarter of an hour. Carp Pie.—Line the edges of a pie-dish with a good light crust. Stuifa medium-sized carp with oyster forcemeat, sew it up to prevent this escaping, and lay it in the middle of the dish. Put round it pieces of eel about an inch and a half in length, which have been already partly cooked. ake three-quarters of a pint of the liquor in which the eel was stewed, put with it a cupful of port, a little salt and cayenne, an onion stuck with four cloves, and a blade of mace. Let these simmer gently until they are reduced to half a pint of gravy, which may be thickened with a little. flour and, butter. Pour this over the fish, cover with crust, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Carp Roe,—Put the roes of three or four carp into a stewpan, strew a little salt over them, - and cover with vinegar. Boil them for ten or fifteen minutes, then chop them up with, CAR ( 108 ) CAR half their bulk in bread-crumbs, the finely- chopped rind of a lemon, a little salt and cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg. Make them up into cakes, and bake in a Dutch oven, with a little butter, till they are hot. Time to bake, a few minutes. Carp Roe, Fricasseed.—Take five or six roes, strew over them a little salt and pepper, and two table-spoonfuls of finely- chopped parsley. Melt three ounces of butter in a stewpan, and put in the roes with a dozen small mushrooms, the juice of a small lemon, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Let them stew gently for ten minutes, then add a wine-glass of white wine, and a lump of butter the size of an egg rolled in flour. Let these simmer for ten minutes more, draw the pan from the fire for a minute, and add half a cupful of cream or new milk. Serve hot, with the sauce poured over the roes. Time, half an hour. Sufficient for two or three persons. Carp, Sauce for.— Dissolve about one ounce of butter in a saucepan, and stir into it very smoothly a dessert-spoonful of flour, a little gravy, a cupful of good cream, and two anchovies chopped finely. Let it boil, stir it well, then add a table-spoonful of soy, season with salt, and, just before serving, squeeze the juice of a lemon into the sauce. Carp, Stewed.—Cleanse three or four fish thoroughly. Wash them well with a little vinegar in the water to draw out the blood. Split the fish, and cut them into good-sized pieces. Rub them well with a little salt, pepper, and powdered mace. Put them into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, a dessert-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a cupful of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a stick of horse-radish. Let them simmer gently for an hour or more. Take out the slices of fish, and strain the gravy. Add to it a cupful of cream or new milk, let it boil up, then draw it from the fire for a minute, or two, and add gradually the yolks of two eggs mixed with a little cream. Pour the boiling sauce over the slices of carp, and make a promi- nent display of the roe. Carp, Stewed (another way).—Cleanse a carp thoroughly, and cut it into slices, then put it into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of bacon and a quarter of a pound of veal cut into slices, four small onions stuck with four cloves, two carrots, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, half a dozen chives, and, if liked, half a clove of garlic. The vegetables must be sliced and the herbs chopped. Pour a glass- ful of white wine over the carp, and let it simmer for two or three minutes, then add equal parts of white wine and stock, sufficient to cover the fish and vegetables. Let them simmer gently for an hour, thicken the sauce with a little flour and butter, add pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and boil it, stirring continually, until itis a proper consistency. Time to prepare, one hour and a half. Sufficierit for one or two persons. Carp, Stewed (another way). — Clean thoroughly two carp. Save the roes, and fry the fish lightly in hot lard, lay them in a stew- pan, and cover with a mixture composed equally of wine and stock. Stew gently until sufti- ciently cooked, then strain the gravy, add salt and pepper, a table-spoonful of ketchup, the juice of half a lemon, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour. Pour the sauce over the fish, and garnish with fried roes and toasted sippets. Time to stew, according to size. Carrier Sauce.—Pour a breakfast-cupful of good brown gravy over a table-spoonful of finely-minced shallots. Add a little salt and cayenne, and a table-spoonful of chili vinegar. Simmer gently for about thirty minutes, till the shallots are sufficiently cooked, then strain the sauce, and serve with mutton. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. Carrot. — This vegetable is almost inva- riably sent to table with boiled beef. When the carrots are young, they should be washed . and brushed, not scraped, before cooking— and old carrots also are better prepared in this way—then rubbed with a clean coarse cloth after boiling. Young carrots need to be cooked about half an hour, and fully-grown ones from one hour and a half to two hours. The red is the best part. In order to ascertain if the root is sufficiently cooked, stick a fork into it. ‘When they feel soft they are ready for serving. They are excellent for flavouring, and contain a great amount of nourishment. Carrot Cheesecakes.—Boil a moderate- sized carrot until tender. Poundit ina mortar, and pass the pulp through a fine hair sieve. Mix with it an ounce of oiled butter, two des- sert-spoonfuls of washed currants, two table- spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, a table-spoonful of fresh curd, and a well-beaten egg. Line some patty-pans with good puff paste, half fill them with the mixture, and bake in a good oven for twenty minutes. Probable cost, about 1d. each. Carrot Fritters.— Boil a large carrot until it is quite tender. Beat it to a pulp, pass it through a sieve, and mix with .it two table-spoonfuls of cream, the same of finely- grated bread-crumbs; and two eggs well beaten. _Fry the mixture in fritters in hot lard or drip- ping, and serve them with good brown sauce. Sufficient for two persons. Carrot Jam (to imitate Apricot Jam).— Choose young, deep-coloured carrots; wash and scrape them, then boil them until they are quite tender. Rub them through a colander, then through a sieve, and to every pound of pulp allow one pound of sifted white sugar, half a dozen bitter almonds chopped small, and the grated rind and juice of a lemon. Put these ingredients into a preserving-pan, and let them boil for a few minutes, stirring them constantly, and removing the scum as it rises. When cold, add a wine-glassful of brandy for every pound. of pulp. Put the jam into jars, and tie it up carefully. With the addition of the brandy, it will keep for some time. Time, six or eight minutes to boil all together. Carrot Pie.—This is a favourite dish with vegetarians. Wash and slice the carrots, and CAR ( 109 ) CAR parboil them. Put them into a dish edged with a light crust. Add pepper and salt, and pour a little water over them. Cover them with crust, and bake the pie in a moderate oven. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of carrots, 6d. or 8d. per bunch. Sufficient, a moderate-sized pie for six persons. Carrot Pudding, Baked or Boiled. —Boil some large carrots till they are tender, pass them through a sieve, and mix one pound of the pulp with half a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, six ounces of finely-shred suet, and a quarter of a pound each of stoned raisins, washed currants, and brown sugar. Mix these ingredients well together, and add a little grated nutmeg, a large pinch of salt, and three eges well beaten, together with as much new milk as will make a thick batter. If baked, put the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake it in a moderate oven; if boiled, put it in a well- oiled mould, tie it in a cloth, and boil or steam it. Serve with sweet sauce. Time to bake, one hour and a half; to boil, three hours. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. Carrot Sauce.—Take half a pint of good melted butter. Bring it to a boil, then stir into it two table-spoonfuls of mashed carrots, and 4 little salt and pepper. ‘Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two pounds of stewed cutlets. Carrot Soup.—Put any bones that you may have into three quarts of stock or water, with three turnips, three onions, a head of celery, or half a tea-spoonful of celery seeds, two bay-leaves, and the red part of ten good- sized carrots, cut off in slices. Stew the vege- tables till tender, then take out the carrots, pound them in a mortar, mix with them a little of the liquor, and pass them through a coarse sieve. Strain the rest of the liquid, and return it to the saucepan; put with it the pulped carrots, and let it boil till it is as thick as pea- soup. Season with pepper and salt, and serve. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for six persons. Carrot Soup (another way).—Put four ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan, allow it to melt, then put into it a large onion cut into thin slices, half a pound of lean ham, also sliced, and the red part of twelve carrots grated. Let these remain over a moderate fire till they are nicely coloured, stirring them occasionally to prevent them burning. When ready, add two quarts of nicely-flavoured stock. Simmer the soup for two hours. Remove the ham, strain the soup, and pass the carrot through a fine sieve, then return it to the soup; boil it again, season it with cayenne and salt, and serve. Time, three hours. Probable cost, 5d. per pint. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Carrot Soup (maigre).—Take two large onions, with eight large carrots (which have been washed and scraped, the red part cut into thin slices and the yellow part left out), one turnip, two heads of celery, or one tea-spoonful of celery seed, and six ounces of the crumb of bread. Put three quarts of water into a saucepan, with a piece of soda the size of a pea. Let this boil; then put in the above ingredients, with a little cayenne pepper, salt, and mace. When they are soft, take out the vegetables and rub them through a coarse sieve ; replace them, and add to the soup, when boiling, a large breakfast-cupful of cream or new milk. The soup should be as thick as cream. Time, two and a half hours. Probable cost, 13d. per pint. Sufficient for six persons. Carrots (4 la Flamande).—Take a bunch of young carrots, which alone are suitable, wash them well, cut off the heads and points, and place them in boiling water for five minutes. Take them out, drain, rub off the skin with a coarse cloth, cut them into very thin slices, and put them into a saucepan with a cupful of water, a little salt and pepper, and a piece of butter the size of « small egg. Cover them closely, and simmer gently for twenty minutes, shaking the pan occasionally in order that they may be equally cooked. Mix the yolks of two eggs with a cupful of cream, and a dessert-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley. Draw the pan from. the fire for a couple of minutes, taking off the cover, put a table-spoonful or two of the liquid with the eggs and cream, then pour the whole gradually into the saucepan. Stir the sauce until it thickens, and serve the carrots with the sauce poured over them. Time to stew the carrots, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. per bunch. Sufficient for four or five persons. Carrots (a la Flamande), another way.— Boil whole, six large carrots until they are quite tender; then stamp them out in stars, wheels, dice, or any other shape, and stew them in a little good melted butter with five small onions, a table-spoonful of finely-chopped pars- ley, and a little salt and pepper. Serve the carrots with the sauce poured over them. Time to boil, one hour and a half. Sufficient, six large carrots for eight persons. Carrots (& la Reine).—Choose some fine large carrots and cut them into pieces about three inches long; make them flat at one end and narrow and round at the other, so as to give them the form of cones. Boil them until nearly tender, then place them upright in a saucepan with some good gravy, leaving about an inch of the tops uncovered to prevent their being broken. Boil them until they are sufficiently cooked, take them out, and arrange them in a dish. Thicken the gravy with a little brown thicken- ing, add a pinch of salt and a small piece of sugar to it, and pour it over them. Time, one hour and a half. Carrots, Boiled.—Wash and prepare the carrots. If they are very large they should be halved and sliced. Throw them into plenty of boiling water with salt in it, keep them boiling, and when a fork can be easily pushed into them they are ready. They may be boiled in the same saucepan with beef, and a few should be placed round the dish and the rest sent to table in a tureen. Melted butter generally accom- panies them. Many persons are fond of cold carrots with cold beef. They may be easily warmed up by covering them closely and putting the dish in which they are placed into boiling water. Time, young carrots, half an hour, fully-grown, from one and a half to two hours. Sufficient, four large carrots for six persons. CAR Carrots, Fried.—Wash and partly boil the carrots whole; cut them into thin slices, dip them in egg and finely-grated bread-crumbs, and fry in hot butter or lard. Serve them piled high on a dish. Cold carrots may be warmed up this way. Timeto fry, tenminutes. Suffi- cient, six carrots for five persons. Carrots in their own Gravy.—Wash, scrape, and slice the carrots. Put them into boiling salt and water, only just enough to cover them, and when they are tender let them boil fast till only two or three spoonfuls of the liquid remains. Put with the gravy a piece of brown thickening the size of anut. Shake the saucepan till the gravy is thickemed, and serve very hot. Time, one hour and a half. Suffi- cient, six large carrots for five persons. Carrots, Mashed.—Scrape off all the skin from some large carrots, and boil them till tender ; mash them smoothly, and return them to the saucepan, beat thoroughly for a few minutes, adding a small piece of butter and a little salt and pepper. ‘Two or three spoon- fuls of gravy or a cupful of milk may be added, but in either case let the vegetables remain over the fire, stirring them constantly till they are nearly dry. Time, one hour and a half to boil; ten minutes to dry. Sufficient, six large carrots for five persons. Carrots, Red Purée of.—Wash and scrape some fine large carrots. Cut the red part off in thin slices, and boil these for about a quarter of an hour. Take them out, drain, and put them into a saucepan with an onion stuck with two cloves, a little salt and pepper, a small piece of butter, and just enough stock to coverthem. Let them boil gently till tender, then pass them through a coarse sieve. Place the pulp in a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a little grated nutmeg, a small piece of sugar, and a cupful of stock, and stir until it is thick. The purée may be served with stewed mutton cutlets round it. Time, two hours and a half. Sufficient, eight large carrots for two pounds of cutlets. Carrots, Sliced and Glazed.—Wash and scrape some fine large carrots, and cut them into equal slices. Partly boil them in salt and water, drain, and put them into a saucepan with just sufficient stock to cover them, a piece of butter, a little salt, and a good-sized lump of sugar. Boil quickly until the gravy is reduced to glaze. Shake the sauce- pan over the fire for a few minutes, till all the gravy adheres to the carrots. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 6d. or 8d. per bunch. Sufficient, six large carrots for five persons. Carrots, Stewed.— Wash and slice some large carrots, and simmer them in as much weak broth as will cover them till they are nearly tender, then add a cupful of milk, and thicken the sauce with flour and butter. Season it with pepper and salt. Keep stirring the contents of the saucepan to prevent them burn- ing. Put the carrots into a hot vegetable dish, and. pour the gravy over them. Time, one hour and a half. Sufficient, six large carrots for five persons. (110) CAS Carrots, Sweet (for a second course). —Boil six or eight large carrots till tender, drain them, and pass them through a coarse hair sieve. Put the pulp into a saucepan, and « dry it over a moderate fire for a few minutes, stirring it all the time. Mix with it two ounces of good butter, a pinch of salt, and a table- spoonful of finely-sifted sugar. When this is thoroughly blended, add a cupful of cream or new milk. Serve with toasted sippets. Time, one hour anda half. Sufficient for six persons. Carrots, To Dress in the German way.—Melt two ounces of butter in a sauce- pan. Lay in it six carrots cut into thin slices, with a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of finely-minced onion. Let them remain until tender, adding every now and then as it is required a little water or stock. Thicken the sauce with a little flour, and about a quarter of an hour before serving, add one table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley. Time, one hour. “Sufficient for five or six persons. Cassell Pudding.—Take the weight of a large egg in powdered sugar, butter, and flour. Whisk the egg thoroughly. Gradually mix with it the sugar, which must be rubbed well on the rind of a lemon before it is pounded, then the flour, and the butter partially melted ; adda pinch of salt. Well oil some cups, put a little apricot or other jam at the bottom of each, and fill them three parts with the mixture. Bake immediately in a good oven. Turn the puddings out, and serve them with wine sauce. ‘Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost for six puddings, 6d. Allow one for each person. Casserole of Potatoes.—Peel and boil some good mealy potatoes, mash them with a little salt, butter, cream, and the yolk of one egg to every pint of potatoes. Beat them two or three minutes over the fire to dry them thoroughly, then’ place them on a shallow dish, and work them with the hands into the shape of a raised pie. Leave a hollow in the middle, ornament it with flutings, &c., brush it over with beaten egg, and brown it in a quick oven. Fill the inside with a ragotit or mince, and serve hot. Casserole of Rice (English method).— ‘Wash a pound of the best rice in two or three waters, and boil it very gently until it is quite tender but whole. Drain it and beat it well. If for a sweet casserole, use milk, sugar, a little butter, and lemon or other flavouring. If in- tended for meat or fish, stew the rice with water and fat, and season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. When quite cool, put a bordering about three inches high and three wide round the edge of a shallow dish, brush it over with egg or clarified butter, and set it in the oven to brown. Then place in the middle the stew, curry, or sweets which are prepared for it. Time to boil the rice, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the interior. Sufficient for five or six persons. : Casserole of Rice (French method).— Wash one pound of the best Carolina rice in two or three waters. Drain it, and put it into a stewpan with a quart of water, a large onion, a tea-spoonful of salt, and two ounces of fat. CAS (ri CAU The skimmings of saucepans will answer for this purpose, or fat bacon, but if these are not at hand, use butter. Simmer very gently till the rice is quite soft but whole. Then drain it, and pound it to a paste. Well butter a baking dish or casserole mould, and press the paste into it, Mark on the top a cover, making the mark rather deep. Pour a little butter over the whole, let it get cold, then turn it out of the mould, and bake it in a very hot oven till it is brightly browned, but not hard. The oven can scarcely be too hot for it. Take off the marked cover about an inch in depth. Scoop out the middle, and fill it with whatever is prepared for it. This may'consist of mincemeat, Irish stew, rechaufféd curries, hashes, or macaroni. Pour in a suitable sauce, replace the cover, and be- fore serving, return it to the oven for a few minutes. ‘Time to boil the rice, about three- quarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclu- sive of the mincemeat, 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Casserole of Rice, with Eggs.—Pre- pare the rice as in the preceding recipe. When it has been worked into a stiff paste, line a well- oiled mould with it; 4 piece of bread may be put inside, shaped properly, to hold it up, but care must be taken to leave a compact wall all round. When baked, remove the bread, put in the mince or fricassee, and cover the top with poached eggs. Serve very hot. Time, three- quarters of an hour to boil the rice. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the mixture. Sufficient for six persons. Casserole, Sweet.—Prepare the rice as before, using milk instead of water, and butter instead of bacon or other fat. The flavouring may consist of lemon, vanilla, or almond, ac- cording to taste. When the pudding is browned, scooptherice from the middle, leaving, as before, a firm wall all around, and fill the hollow with jam, or a compote of any fruit. The latter is, we think, much to be preferred. Sift a little pounded sugar over the whole before serving. Time to boil the rice, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the fruit. Suffi- cient for a good and pretty dish. ‘Cassile.—Put a pint of cream or new milk into a saucepan with the thin rind of a lemon, and three or four lumps of sugar. Let it stand near the fire for a few minutes to draw out the flavour of the lemon, then boil it, and pour it, when boiling, over three table-spoontuls of arrowroot mixed smoothly with a small tea-cup- ful of cream. Return it to the saucepan, stir it over.the fire for four minutes, pour into a damp mould, and when cold and firm, turn it into a glass dish, and serve with bright-coloured jam. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Suffi- cient for a small dish. Cassolettes of Rice.—Prepare the rice as for a casserolé (see Casserole).' Work it to a smooth paste, and fill some small jelly-pots with’ it. Mark in each one an inner circle about three- ‘quarters of an ich deep for the cover. When cold, turn the rice out, brush it over with egg, and brown in a quick oven. Take out the centre, fill it with a ragoit or mince, replace’ the cover, and serve. Cassolettes are, in fact, tiny casseroles. Some persons fry instead of baking them, but if this should peas, great care must be taken that they do not break in the process, and the butter or oil must be very . hot. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2d. or 8d. each. “Allow one for each person. Caudle.—Caudle is oatmeal gruel, sweet- ened, with ale, brandy, or winc added to it. I¢ may be made in several ways. The simplest is the following :—Mix a table-spoonful of oatmeal with a cupful of cold water. Pour a pint of boiling water or milk over it, return it to the saucepan, and let it boil for four or five minutes : stirring it allthe time. Add wine, ale, or brandy, according to taste. Sweeten, and season with nutmeg or ginger. This will be thin caudle ; if itis wanted thick, two table-spoonfuls of oatmeal must be used. Or, mix two table-spoonfuls of oatmeal in a pint of water. Let it stand one hour. _ Then strain, and boil it. Sweeten, and add wine, ale, or brandy, with seasoning to taste. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Caudle may be made with flour or ground rice instead of oatmeal. Probable cost, 13d. per pint, ex- clusive of the wine. Sufficient for one person. Caudle (another way).—Make a pint of thin oatmeal gruel (see preceding recipe). Let it boil, then stir into it, very gradually, the’ yolk of an egg mixed with a little cold water. Add a glass of sherry or port, a little grated nutmeg or lemon-rind, and three or four lumps of sugar. This caudle is wholesome and plea- sant. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. per pint, exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for one person. Caudle, Cold.—Pour a pint of cold boiled water on the rind of a small lemon, and let it stand for an hour. Take out the rind and mix in the yolk of an egg well beaten, a cupful ofe sweet wine, three or four lumps of sugar, and the lemon-juice. Probable cost, 24d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for one person. Caudle, Old Fashioned Brown.— Stir two table-spoonfuls of, oatmeal into a pint of water,and add the thin rind of a lemon, a blade of mace, and a table-spoonful of brown sugar. Let all boil together, then strain the liquid and add a pint of mild ale. Warm it for use. A little grated ginger is often put ‘into this caudle. Or, make a little oatmeal gruel, sweeten and season it according to taste, and, just before serving, stir into it an equal quantity of fresh porter. Time, twenty minutes.. Probable cost, 14d. per pint. Sufficient, one pint for each person. Cauliflower. — This favourite vegetable should be cut early, while the dew is still upon ' it. Choose those that are close and white, and of medium size. Whiteness is a sign of quality and freshness.’ Great’ care should be taken that there'are no caterpillars about the stalk, and, to ensure this, lay the vegetable with its head downwards in cold water and salt for an hour before boiling it; or, better still, in cold water mixed with a little’ vinegar. Trim away the outer’ leaves, and cut the stalk quite close. Cauliflowers are in season from the middle of June till the middle of November. . CAU (12) CAU Cauliflower (a la Frangaise).—Cut away the stalk and the green leaves, and divide a cauliflower into quarters. Put the branches into a little vinegar and water, then put them into a stewpan with some boiling water, with a table-spoonful of salt in it, and let them boil until they are done. This may be ascertained by taking a little piece between the finger and thumb, and if, though still firm, it give away easily, it is sufficiently cooked. Drain the cauliflower and arrange it neatly in a dish. Pour over it a pint of good melted butter. Time to boil, about twelve minutes. Probable cost, 4d. for a medium-sized cauliflower. Suffi- cient, one for two persons. Cauliflower (& la Sauce Blanche).—Cut the stalks off close, trim the leaves, and put the cauliflower into a little vinegar and water to draw out the insects. Put it head downwards in boiling salt and water, and boil it till it is done. As cauliflowers will continue to cook, though more slowly, if left in hot water, if they are a little too soon, they may be taken off the fire before they are quite ready. Take a little piece of the stalk between the finger and thumb, and if it yields easily it is done. Drain the vegetable and arrange it in a hot dish, and pour over it a little French white sauce ‘made by adding (of the fire) the yolk of an egg to half a pint of good melted butter. Probable cost, 4d. or 6d. Cauliflower, Boiled.— Cut the stalk close to the bottom, and pare away the tops of the leaves, leaving a circle of shortened leaf- stalks all round. Put the cauliflower head downwards into a little vinegar and water for a quarter of an hour, as this will be sure to draw out the insects. Put it into a pan of boiling water, with a table-spoonful of salt in it. Some persons prefer milk and water. Re- move the scum carefully as it rises, or the cauli- flower will be discoloured. Boil till tender. This may be ascertained by taking a little piece of the stalk between the finger and thumb, and if it yields easily to pressure it is ready. Drain and serve. Put a lump of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan with a dessert-spoon- fulof flour. Mix smoothly, Add salt and half a pint of water. Stir the sauce till it boils, and strain over the vegetable. Time: a large cauli- flower, fifteen to twenty-five minutes; a small one, twelve to fifteen minutes. As cauliflowers will continue cooking, though slowly, if left in the water in the stewpan, it is important that they should be taken off the fire before they are quite done, unless they can be served im- mediately. Sufficient, a small one for one person. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. Cauliflower, Moulded, with Sauce. —Boil four large white cauliflowers in a little thin flour and water until tender, then cut off the stalks and press them head downwards into a hot basin. Turn them into a tureen, and pour round them a little tomato or piquante sauce. Before serving, place the stalks neatly round them. They should look like one immense cauli- flower. Time, fifteen to twenty-five minutes to boil. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost, 4d. or 6d. each. Cauliflower, Pickled. — This pickle should be made about the beginning of August. Choose firm, fresh, white heads, and let them be cut on adry day. Pare away the leaves and the stem, and place the flowers for five minutes in boiling water, but do not let them boil up, Drain them, and cut them into convenient-sized pieces, and leave them on a sieve todry. Half fill jars with the flowers, cover with cold vine- gar in which spices have been boiled, allowing a quart of vinegar to two ounces of peppercorns, a drachm of cayenne, an ounce of ginger, and half an ounce of mace. Cover closely.. Pro- bable cost, 1s. per pint jar. Cauliflower Sauce.—Make a pint of good white sauce. Boil a cauliflower till tender, drain, and chop it small, then stir it into the boiling sauce, let it remain over the fire for a minute or two, and serve. Time, from twenty to thirty minutes. Probable cost, from 4d. to 6d. per head. Sufficient for a pint and a half of sauce. Cauliflower Soup (maigre). — Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, let it melt, then stir into it very smoothly, three dessert-spoonfuls of curry powder, and a tea- spoonful of celery seed. Slice into it a large cauliflower, a large onion, and a table-spoonful of French beans. Fry the vegetables gently for a few minutes, then add, gradually, three pints of boiling water, or the water in which cauliflowers have been boiled. Simmer gently till the vegetables are reduced to a pulp, then strain the soup, and return it to the saucepan. Add a little salt and pepper. Put ina few sprigs of boiled cauliflower before serving it. A glass of white wine will improve the soup. Serve with boiled rice, and lay a slice of the crumb of bread toasted at the bottom of the tureen. Time, twohours. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. for this quantity. Sufficient for three or four persons. Cauliflower, with Stuffing.—Choose a saucepan the exact size of the dish intended to be used. Cleanse a large, firm, white cauliflower, and cut it into sprigs; throw these into boiling salt and water for two minutes; then take them out, drain, and pack them tightly with the heads downwards, in the saucepan, the bottom of which must have been previously covered with thin slices of bacon. Fill up the vacant spaces with a stuffing made of three table-spoonfuls of finely-minced veal, the same of beef suet, four table-spoonfuls of bread- crumbs, a little pepper and salt, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of minced chives, and a dozen small mushrooms chopped small. Strew these ingredients over the cauli- flowers in alternate layers, and pour over them three well-beaten eggs. When these are well soaked, add sufficient nicely-flavoured stock to cover the whole. Simmer gently till the cauli- flowers are tender, and the sauce very much reduced; then turn the contents of the saucepan upside down on a hot dish, and the cauliflowers will be found standing in a savoury mixture. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. or 6d. for a large cauliflower. Sufficient for } four or five persons. CAU (113 ) CEL Caulifiowers (au Gratin).—Cleanse, trim, and quarter one or two large caulifiowers. Throw them into boiling water, and let them remain for five minutes; drain and boil them in plenty of salted water until they are ready. Whilst they are boiling mix smoothly together in a stewpan an ounce of butter and an ounce of flour, add a quarter of a pint of cold water, and a little pepper and salt. Let the sauce boil, and stir it over the fire for ten minutes, Put in with it an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese and one table-spoonful of cream, and take the saucepan from “the fire. Cut the cauliflowers into neat pieces; lay half of these in a tureen, pour a little of the sauce over them, and add the remainder of the vegetables and the rest of the sauce. Sprinkle a large table-spoonful of bread- raspings and another of grated Parmesan over the top, and bake the preparation in a hot oven until if is nicely browned. Serve very hot. ‘Time to brown, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cauliflowers, with Parmesan Cheese.—Choose three or four young, firm, white cauliflowers, cut off the stalks and the stems, making them flat, so that they will stand nicely in the dish. Cleanse them thoroughly, and boil them until tender, but not sufficiently so to run any risk of their breaking. Dish them so as to make them look like one cauliflower, and powder them thickly with grated Parmesan cheese. Pour a good sauce over this. When it is firmly set, add another layer of cheese, and strew over this some finely-grated bread- crumbs. The sauce may be made thus :—Rub a table-spoonful of flour into half an ounce of sweet butter, mix it smoothly over the fire, and add very gradually a breakfast-cupful of water, one pinch of salt, and a small pinch of pepper. Stir it constantly till it boils, then take it from the fire for a minute or two, and add slowly the yolk of an egg mixed with the juice of half a lemon and a tea-spoonful of water. Stir until the whole is well mixed. Brown the cauliflower with a salamander or in a hot oven, pour a little sauce round, and serve hot, as a third course dish. Time to boil the cauliflower, twelve to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. or 6d. each. Sufficient for six persons. Caveach Fish.—Clean some large fish, either cod, salmon, or mackerel, and cut them into slices. Rub each slice well with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and fry them in hot butter or lard till they are lightly browned. Let them get cold, then lay them in ae Boil some spices in vinegar, allowing two finely-minced shallots, two cloves, a blade of mace, a quarter of an ounce of black peppercorns, and two bay-leaves to a quart of vinegar. Nearly fill the jars with this, when cold, and put on the top a little salad- oil. Tie them down closely. The fish will keep good for some months. It should be prepared when the fish is in full season, and when served, the pieces should be piled in the middle of the dish, and a salad served round them. Probable cost, cod, 6d. per pound; salmon, 1s. 2d. per pound; mackerel, 4d. or 6d. Caviare and Mock Caviare. — The true caviare must be bought. It is usually 8—n.z. eaten as a relish, with dry toast, pepper, lemon- juice or vinegar and oil. When fresh, the taste is rather like that of oysters. It is made of the roe of sturgeon or salmon. Mock caviare is made by pounding boned anchovies, with a clove | of garlic; then mixing with the paste lemon- Juice or vinegar, salt, cayenne, and a few drops of salad-oil. It should be served spread thinly on bread and butter or toast. Time to prepare, about half an hour. Probable cost, anchovies, 1s. per half pint bottle. Cayenne, Home-made.—Cayenne is so much adulterated, and varies so much instrength, that we strongly advise those who are partial to it to make it themselves. Some of that sold in England has been found to be coloured with red lead, and even that sold in Jamaica is not to be relied upon, as it is prepared from several sorts of red capsicums, all of inferior quality both in pungency and flavour. The best time to make it is in September or October, and the chilies should be used as fresh as possible. Take two hundred large chilies, remove the stalks and dry them in a colander before the fire, being careful that they do not burn. Pound them, with a quarter of their weight in salt, toa fine powder. Put the powder into a bottle and cork it closely. ‘The flavour of this cayenne will be superior to that sold in the shops, and it will not be nearly so fiery. Time, fourteen hours to dry. Sufficient for ayquarter of a pound of cayenne. Probable cost of chilies, from is. 6d. to 3s. per hundred. Cayenne Vinegar or Essence.—Put half a pint of brandy, wine, claret, or vinegar into a bottle with half an ounce of cayenne. Let it infuse for three weeks, then strain and bottle it for use. This essence is excellent for flavouring sauces, gravies, &c., but it should be used judiciously, as the strength of cayenne varies so much that is impossible to say how much ought to be used. The best way is to put in two or three drops, then taste, and add more if required. Cecils.—Mince very finely four table-spoon- fuls of any kind of cold meat, and put it into a saucepan with an equal weight of finely-grated | bread-crumbs, a dessert-spoonful of chopped onions, two or three boned anchovies, a little salt and pepper, half a tea-spoonful of chopped. lemon-rind, a dessert-spoonful of minced parsley, anda piece of butter warmed. Mix them over the fire for a few minutes, then take them off, and, when cool, add the yolk of an egg. Form the mixture into balls rather larger than a hen’s egg, dip them in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and fry till they become a light brown. Serve with good brown gravy. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d. each. Allow one for each person. Celeriac.—The stalks of this vegetable can hardly be distinguished from celery. It is much more easily cultivated, and cooked in a much shorter time. It may be boiled, stewed, and served with white or brown sauce in the same manner as celery. Four or five minutes will stew it. Celery.—This vegetable imparts an agree- able and ‘peculiar flavour to soups, sauces, &c. Tt is generally eaten raw, the brittle leaf-stalks CEL ( 114) CEL being the Englishman’s favourite’ accompani-: ment to bread and cheese. There are several ways in which it may be nicely prepared, and when cooked it is more digestible and equally palatable. When the roots are not to be had, the pounded seed is an excellent substitute for flavouring. It is in season from October to February, and is’ better when ‘it has’ ‘been touched by the frost. ' Celery, Boiled.—Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, with a little salt in it. "Wash the celery carefully: Cut off the outer leaves, make the stalks even, and lay them in small bunches. Throw these into the water, and let them boil gently until’ tender, leaving the saucepan uncovered. When done, drain, and place them on a piece of toast which has been dipped in the liquid. Pour over them a little good melted butter, and serve. Time: young celery, three-quarters of an hour; old, one hour and a half. Probable cost,'2d. to 4d, per head. Sufficient, one head for two persons. < - -,Celery, Essence of.—Put an ounce of pounded ‘celery seed into a bottle, and pour over it half a pint of spirits of wine, white wine, or brandy. Let this infuse for three weeks, then strain and bottle for use. When wanted, put a few drops. upon a lump of sugar, and throw it into the,pan, and the flavour will immediately diffuse itself throughout. This is a pleasant addition to salads. Four or five drops on a small lump of sugar will be sufficient for a pint. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the spirit. Celery for Flavouring.—The outside dark leaves of celery should never ‘be thrown: away, as they may always be used for flavour-. ing soups, sauces, and gravies. Ifa tea-spoon- ful of celery seed be bruised and tied in a little piece of muslin, then thrown into the stock pot, it will impart as much flavour as two heads of fresh celery. Celery seed for flavouring is sold in penny packets. Sufficient, one penny packet for two quarts. Celery Garnishing.—Cut the tops off two heads of celery, leaving each head about eight inches long. Point the roots, and put them in boiling water for eight or ten minutes. Tie them together, and put them in a saucepan ; cover them with good stock, and add a: table- spoonful of pot fat, one carrot, one onion, stuck with two cloves, a little salt and pepper, and a bay-leaf. Close the saucepan, and let the con- tents simmer gently for an hour, and a half,, Jhen drain the celery and. arrange it,round a dish of. boiled fowls, &c. Probable cost, 2d. or, 4d: per head. This quantity will be sufficient for a small dish of fowls. : ’ Celery, Purée of.—Wash. thoroughly four heads of fresh white celery, cut them into: small pieces, and. put them in a stewpan, with an onion sliced,’ and a quarter of a pound of butter. Let them simmer very gently till tender, then add a quarter of a pound of flour mixed smoothly with a pint of milk. . Let.this boil up, then. pass the whole.through a fine sieve, season. with .salt,. pepper, and a little piece of sugar, and, add some butter and very thick cream to the purée. Serve in the middle of.a dish, with cutlets, &c., round. Time for young celery, ‘green celery leaves. three-quarters of an hour; if old, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Celery Salad.—Cut blanched celery very small. Be careful that it is perfectly dry, and do not prepare it until two or three minutes be- fore it is to be used. Pour over it a Mayon- aise sauce (see Mayonnaise) and garnish with s. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient, one head for two persons... Celery Sauce.—Cut the white part of two heads of celery into pieces about one inch and a half long. Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when it,is melted, throw in the celery, cover closely, and stew gently till it is quite tender. Mix in very smoothly a large table-spoonful of flour, and when it has browned a little, add a breakfast-cupful of good gravy, salt, and a little nutmeg. Rub through a sieve, make hot,and serve. Probable cost, 2d. _to 4d. per head,. Sufficient for one small fowl. Celery Sauce (a quick way).—If celery sauce is wanted in a hurry, some good melted. butter may be flavoured with a few drops of the essence of celery,.and a little cream or new milk, and a pinch of powdered mace, may be added. Time, ten minutes. Sufficient, five drops on a piece of sugar toa pint. Probable cost, 6d. per half pint. Celery Sauce, for Turkeys, Fowls, &c.—Slice the best part of four heads of young celery in small pieces, and boil them in salt and water for twenty minutes. Drain them, and put them into a clean saucepan, with suffi- cient’ veal broth or gravy to cover them, add a tea-spoonful of salt, a' blade of mace, and stew all gently together until quite tender. Add two ounces of butter, and a dessert-spoonful of flour, and when this is quite smooth, stir in a cupful of good cream. Time, one hour. Pro- bable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient fora couple of small fowls. If this sauce should be wanted richer, the yolks of two or three eggs may be added, but celery sauce is fre- quently spoilt by too much seasoning. , Celery Soup.—Cut the white part of four heads of celery into pieces about an inch long, and put them into a saucepan with a pint of good white stock, two ounces of butter, a ‘quarter of a pound of lean ham, and a lump of sugar. Let’them boil for a quarter of an hour, put in with them three pints more of stock, a little salt, and'a blade of mace. Stew gently for an hour, then press the soup through a coarse sieve. Make it hot again, pour it into a tureen, add a pint of boiling cream, and serve immediately with toasted sippets. If liked, this soup may be thickened with a little flour. Probable cost,'10d. per pint if cream be used. Sufficient for eight persons. _ Celery, Stewed. — Wash four heads of celery very clean, trim them neatly, cutting off the leaves and tops; cut them into three-inch lengths, and tie them in small bundles, and par- ‘boil them. in sufficient salt and water to cover them. Drain and stew them, until tender, in some stock. Brown two ounces of butter with a table-spoonful of Hour in a saucepan, dilute it with the stock in which the celery was boiled, CEL (115 ) CHA lay the celery in it, let it boil for ten minutes more, and serve as hot as ‘possible: ‘Time, three-quarters: of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Sufficient for six persons. . Celery, Stewed (i'la Créme).— Wash very clean’ two heads’ of celery, trim them ‘neatly, cutting off the outer stalks, the'leaves, and the tops, and boil them in salt and water until nearlytender, Drain them and put them in a dish., Have ready in another saucepan a break-. fast-cupful of good cream. Let it boil, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, till itis thick and smooth; then pour it. over the. celery, grate a little nutmeg over the top, and serve. Time to ‘boil the celery, from three-quarters 'of an hour to one hourand a half. Sufficient for four persons. ' Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per head. Celery: To Dress.—Cut off the end of the root, ‘leaving the white part; wash it very carefully, trim away all the decayed leaves and outer stalks, and if the root be very thick, split it into quarters. Send it to table in a celery glass half filled with cold water. Curl the top leaves by .drawing. the point of: a. skewer through them,! dividing them. into. strips, about. five inches from the top. . Celery, To Fry.—Cold boiled celery will answer for this purpose. Split three or four heads, and dip the pieces into clarified butter, and fry them until they are lightly browned ; Jay them ‘on some blotting-paper for a minute to drain /off the fat, and pile them like sugar biscuits on a'iapkin. Garnish the dich prettily with parsley. They may be dipped in batter before frying, and served with melted butter, or with good brown sauce made with the gravy in which they were boiled. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per ‘head. Sufficient for five or six persons. © 9 = 1: Celery, To Preserve through the Winter.—Gather the celery on a fine dry day before it is injured by the frost, cut off the leaves and roots, ‘and lay it in a dry diry place for a féw days till it’ is partially dried; then remove it to a cool céllar, where it will be quite secure from frost, and pack it up with sand, putting layers of celery and of sand alternately. Celery ‘Vinegar.—Bruise an ounce of celery sseed, put it-into a quart bottle, which must be filled up with cold boiled vinegar, let it soak for three weeks, then strain, and bottle for use. A few drops are an agreeable addition to salads, &c. ‘Probable cost, 6d. per pint. Celery, with White Sauce.—Prepare the celery: as for stewing, let.it stew in salt and water for ten minutes, then drain it, and just cover it. with:.a little veal broth; stew it again till tender. As the broth boils away, add a little milk. When the: celery is sufficiently cooked, arrange it on a hot dish, thicken the gravy with a little flouriand butter, season it lightly with salt and pepper, and pour it over the celery. Time, one hour or more. Probable cost, 2d, to 4d. per head. Sufficient, one head for'two persons. Chalybeate ‘Water, Artificial (for weakly constitutions that require iron).—Those who ‘cannot. travel. in search of ferruginous springs may.-very: easily prepare a supply at. . be ready for use. home... Take half a pound, of iron nails, wash them clean, and leave them exposed to the air and dew for a few hours in some place where they will take a little rust without being defiled by | blacks, then put’ them into a jar capable of | holding three or four pints; fill it up with rain or’ river water, which has been poured high from one, vessel into another, in order to aérate it. Let it stand thirty-six hours, when it will f A wine-glassful ought to be taken twice a day, a quarter of an hour after meals, | . : Champagne Cream.—Beat the yolks of five eggs very thoroughly, and add by degrees some finely-pounded white sugar,, sufficient to make it stifi.and firm. Then add a bottle of champagne, keep on stirring till it is all mixed. Last of all, put in a table-spoonful of brandy. Put the cream into a glass jug, and serve it in champagne glasses. Time, a quarter of an hour. The probable cost will depend upon the price of the champagne. Sufficient for half.a dozen persons. ‘ : Pe cee Champagne Cup.—Pour a bottle. of champagne ‘into a silver or glass cup; large enough to hold.three quarts. Add to this!two - bottles of soda or seltzer water, a table-spoonful of, brandy, and sixteen ounces of pounded ice. Stir it well with a silver spoon, and add, last, of all, a table-spoonful of finely-sifted sugar. Be careful, when putting in the sugar, that’ the wine does not overflow. A little cucumber-rind. is by some: persons considered an improvement. Time, a few minutes. Sufficient for a party of |nine or ten. | OR ' Champagne, Currant.—Putfour pounds -of loaf sugar into a saucepan with six quarts ‘of'water; skim it well, and’ boil it till itisa clear ‘syrup; pour it over a quart of white and a quart ‘of red currants, which have been stripped from, the stalks.’ Let’ it stand for one,hour and a half, then’ stir in two table-spoonfuls of yeast... Let it remain for two days, stirring it fre- quently, pass it through a coarse bag into a small cask, and fine it with a quarter of an ‘ounce of isinglass. Probable cost, currants, 4d. or 6d. per quart. Champagne,’ English.—The yellow hairy: aooebered aio the Best 10% thig prepose: They should be taken when they are fully’ ‘grown, but before they are in the least, ripe. Reject all unsound or bruised fruit, and pick off the stalks and heads. Bruise a gallon of fruit so as to burst the berries ‘without breaking the seeds. Be careful that the tub in which they are placed is scrupulously clean. Pour over them a gallon of water, and let them stand — in a warm place for forty-eight hours, stirring’ | them frequently, until all the juice and pulp are separated from the rest of the fruit. Strain the liquid)’ pressing the pulp with a wooden spoon till it is quite dry. Pour it upon four pounds of coarse sugar, and let it stand three days © more, stillistixring it frequently, then strain it through a coarse bag into a cask, and mix with. it a cupful of the best gin. Let it stand twelve months, then bottle it. It.must be bottled in the spring. If it is not quite clear, it may be. fined -with a. little isinglass,;; half an ounce J§~ enough forfour gallons.:; After the bungs. are, - CHA (116 ) CHE driven in tightly, a vent-hole should be made in the cask. Probable cost of gooseberries, 1s. per gallon. ; Chancellor Pudding.—Butter rather thickly a plain round mould, and ornament it with alternate rows of raisins and citron, mak- ing a star or some other device at the bottom of the mould. Put in it a layer of small sponge- cakes, sprinkle over them a few raisins and a little finely-chopped citron, then four or five ratafias, and pour over these a tea-spoonful of sherry, and repeat until the mould is nearly full. Take a pint of milk sweetened, and flavoured with lemon-rind, and mix with it the yolks of four eggs, well beaten. Stir this a few minutes over the fire till it thickens, but it must not be allowed to boil. When it is time to steam the pudding, pour the custard, which must be cold, gradually over the cakes. Place a piece of well-buttered writing paper on the top, put it in w saucepan, and either boil or steam it very gently indeed, until sufficiently cooked. It should stand four or five minutes before it is turned out. Serve with wine sauce. Time to boil, or to steam, one hour. Probable cost, 1g. 4d., exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for four or five persons, Chantilly Soup.—Boil one pint of young green peas, shelled, three spring onions, and a sprig of mint, until the peas are quite tender. Remove the mint and the onions, press the peas through a sieve, and pour three pints of nicely- flavoured boiling stock to them. Serve very hot. Time, forty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. per pint. Sufficient for six persons. Char.—This fish is considered a great delicacy, and is peculiar to the lakes of Cum- berland; it is seldom offered for sale in the London market. The flesh is rather like that of trout. Wash the char, dry it with a soft cloth, dust it over with flour, and broil it gently till it is ready. Send piquante sauce in a tureen to table with it. Time to broil, ten or fifteen minutes. One medium-sized char will suffice for two persons. Charlotte.—A’ Charlotte, or French fruit pudding, may be made of almost every kind of truit, or of two or three kinds together. a plain round mould, butter it well, and line the bottom and sides completely with strips of the crumb of bread well buttered, making each piece fold over another, so as to make a complete wall of bread. Fill up the dish with any sort of stewed, fresh, or preserved fruit, taking care to have it sufficiently moist to soak the bread a little. Cover the top with slices of buttered bread. Put a plate and a weight over the pudding, and bake it ina quick oven. Turn it out in a shape, and serve with sifted sugar and cream. Time to bake, ten minutes. Probable cost, 1s. for a mould. Sufficient for four or five persons. Charlotte (a la Parisienne).—Cut a Savoy, sponge, or rice cake into thin horizontal slices, spread some good jam on each slice, and restore the cake to its original shape. Cover it equally with an icing made by mixing the lightly- whisked whites of four eggs with five ounces of pounded loaf sugar. Sift a little more sugar Take - over it, and dry the icing in a gentle oven. Pound cake may be iced in the same way, but, of course, if this is used the jam should be omitted. The Charlotte must remain in a gentle oven till the icing is dry. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. for a medium-sized cake. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Charlotte Prussienne.— Put » little nicely-flavoured red jelly, not quite an inch deep, at the bottom ofa plain mould. Let it become stiff. Line the sides of the mould compactly with finger biscuits, and half fill it with good jelly. Put it in the ice pot, and as it begins to freeze fill it up with an equal quantity of well-whipt cream. Serve it turned out of the mould. All sorts of variations may be made in the flavouring of this pudding. Time to freeze, half an hour. It had better remain in the ice until ready to serve. A medium-sized mould will suffice for six persons. Charlotte Russe.—Line a plain round mould with finger biscuits, carefully put them close together, and form a round or star at the bottom of the mould, Take a pint of cream and whisk it well with a little sugar and half an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a little water. Mix with it half a pint of apple, apricot, straw- berry, or any other jam, and set it to freeze. Cover it with a piece of Savoy cake the shape of the mould, and be careful to fit it exactly, so that when it is turned out it will not be likely to break. Let it remain in the ice until it is sufficiently frozen. Turn out and serve. If fruit is not at hand the cream may be flavoured with coffee, burnt almond, vanilla, &c. ‘ime to freeze, about an hour. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for a quart mould. Charlotte Russe (another way).—Line a plain round mould with French biscuit of different colours. Divide the mould into four compartments by placing inside pieces of biscuit the height of the mould perpendicularly. These must of course be placed across both ways. Fill each division with a different purée of fruit, cover it closely with biscuit, and bake in a good oven. Turn it out of the mould, and serve with a little custard. Time to bake, half an hour. The probable cost will depend upon the fruit with which it is filled. Sufficient, one. pint mould for four persons. Cheese, Bath Cream.—Put a gallon of new milk and two quarts of cold spring water into the cheese-tub, with sufficient rennet to turn it. More will be required than if milk alone were used. When the curd comes let the whey drip from it, then pour a little water over it and let it drip again. Fill the vat with it, place a weight upon it, and apply dry cloths for a day or two. Turn it out on a plate, cover it with another plate, and turn occasionally. It will be ready for use ina fortnight. Neither salt nor colouring are required. Cheese, Blue Mould, To Produce. —The blue mould which is so much liked in cheese comes no one can tell how. It may be accelerated by brushing it while still soft with a hard brush dipped in whey, and then rubbing it once a day with butter; and repeating this CHE (117) CHE for three weeks, or until the blue mould begins to appear. _ Cheese Canapées. — Cut a stale loaf into slices about a quarter of an inch thick, Divide these into pieces about two inches long, and one inch wide, and fry them in hot butter or oil till they are a bright golden colour. Spread a little thin mustard on each of these pieces, lay over that some Cheshire or Parmesan cheese, and put them in a quick oven till the cheese is dissolved. Serve as hot as possible. Time, altogether, about half an hour. Probable cost, about 1d. each piece. Allow two or three pieces for each person. Cheese, Cayenne.—Take a quarter of a pound each of flour, butter, and grated cheese. Mix them thoroughly, and add a pinch of salt and as much cayenne pepper as will cover a fourpenny-piece. Mix with yolk of egg and water to a smooth stiff paste, roll this out to the thickness of half an inch, then cut it into pieces about three inches long and one inch wide. Bake these until they are lightly browned, and serve them as hot as possible. Time to bake the fingers, five or ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d. for this quantity. Sufficient for four persons, Cheese, Cheshire, Imitation.—Put the milk fresh from the cow, and without skim- ming it, into a tub, with as much rennet as will turn it before it has had time to get quite cold. When the curd comes, draw it out with the fingers as gently as possible, as rough handling ill destroy its richness. Put half an ounce of salt with every pound of curd. Lay the curd little by little in the cheese vat, which should have holes in the lower part of it, and put the vat into the press. When it has been there a couple of hours take it out, put it into a little warm water to harden the skin, then wipe it dry, cover it with a cloth, and return it to the press (placing it in the vat, which has also been wiped dry) for seven or eight hours. Take it out again, smooth the edges, and before ‘putting it in the last time prick some holes in it a couple of inches deep with a bodkin. Allow it to remain for two days, turning it at least twice a day; take it out, put it on a clean board, turn and move frequently, and rub with a dry cloth. It will be ready in about eighteen ‘months. At the end of the year after it is made make a hole in the middle and pour in some good wine. Make up the hole with some of the cheese. These cheeses should be about eight inches in thickness, and will be found to be very mellow and good. Cheese, Cream.—Take some thick cream and tie itin a wet cloth. Stir a tea-spoonful of salt into every pint of cream. Hang it in a. cool airy place for six or seven days, then turn it into a clean cloth, which must be put into a mouN, and under a weight for about twenty- four hours longer, when it will be fit for use. Jt should be turned twice a day. . Probable cost, cream, 1s. 6d. per pint. . Cheese, Crusts for, or Pulled Bread.—Pull the crumb of a new loaf into small rough pieces, place them on a dish or tin plate, and put them into a quick oven ee till they are lightly browned and crisp. If the oven is not hot they may be browned before a clear fire in a Dutch oven. The crumb of half @ quartern loaf will make enough for half a dozen persons. Cheese Fondue or Souffié,—Melt an ounce of butter in a saucepan, mix smoothly with it one ounce of flour, a pinch of salt and cayenne, and a quarter of a pint of milk; simmer the mixture gently over the fire, stirring it all the time, till it is as thick as melted butter : stir into it about three ounces of finely-grated Parmesan. or good Cheshire cheese. Turn it into a basin, and mix with it the yolks of two eggs well beaten. Whisk three whites to a solid froth, and just before the soufilé is baked, put them into it, and pour the mixture into a soufflé dish or small round tin. It should be only half filled, as the fondue will rise very high, Pin a napkin round the dish in which it is baked, and serve it the moment it is taken out of the oven, as if it is allowed to fall, its beauty will be entirely gone. On this account it is better to have a metal cover over it strongly heated. Time, twenty minutes. Pro- bable cost, 1s, 3d.,if made with milk. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Cheese Fondue or Soufflé (another way).—Boil a quarter of a pint of milk, and stir into it till melted an ounce of butter. Pour it upon half a tea-cupful of fine bread-crumbs. Soak a few minutes, then add half a tea-cupful of grated cheese, the yolks of two eggs, and a little salt. Butter a soufflé tin; and tie round it, to make the sides higher, a bard of buttered paper. Just before putting the soufflé into the oven, dash in the whites of three eggs which have been whisked to a firm froth. Bake ina quick oven till the centre is firm, and serve immediately. Cheese Fritters.—Cheese which has be- come a little dry will answer for this purpose, though, of course, fresh cheese will be better. Put three ounces of cheese in a mortar, with a dessert-spoonful of finely - minced ham, three dessert-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, a piece of butter about the size of a small egg, two or three grains of cayenne, and the yolk of an egg well beaten. Pound.these ingredients together until they are perfectly smooth, then form the paste into balls about the size of a walnut, flatten to a thickness of half an inch, dip them in batter, and fry them until lightly browned, and drain. Place them on a napkin, and serve as hot as possible. Time to fry, two or three minutes. Probable cost, 8d. for this quantity. One or two will suffice for each person. Cheese Omelet.— Whisk two eggs thoroughly. Allow a pinch of salt, the same of pepper, half a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and a tea-spoonful of grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese to every two eggs. i completely. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into the frying-pan. When it is hot, pour in the mixture, and stir it with a wooduth. CHE - spoon until it begins to set. “Discontinue stir- ring, but shake'the pan for a minute or so, then fold the omelet in two, and keep on shaking the . pan, and, if it seems likely to stick, put a little piece of butter under it. When it is lightly browned, turn it on a hot dish. It must not be overdone. The inside ought to be quite juicy. If it is preferred, the cheese may be finely --grated and strewed over the omelet’ after it is cooked, instead of mixed with it before. Time _ to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 5d., with two eggs. ‘Sufficient for one person. Cheese, Ox Cheek.—This is very much the same sort of thing as pork cheese, an ox head being substituted for a pig’s head. Take. half an ox head, cleanse it thoroughly, remove the eye, and lay it in lukewarm water for. some Hours. Then put it into a saucepan with suffi- cient cold water to cover it. Take off the scum as it rises, and when the meat separates easily from the bones, take it out, remove the bones, and chop the meat small, seasoning it witha table-spoonful of powdered thyme, the same of finely-minced parsley, a little grated nutmeg, together with salt and white pepper to season it. . Put it in a plain. round mould, and place a weight on the top. Turn it out when cold, and cut it into thin slices. The liquor in which the head was boiled will make good _gtavy. Time, to boil, about three hours. Pro- able cost, 5d. or 6d. per pound. Suitable for a breakfast or luncheon dish. ' Cheese Paste.—This is made by pound- ing cheese in a mortar with a little buttor, and adding wine, vinegar, pepper, and mustard’ ac- cording to taste, until it is of the consistency of stiff paste. It is then used as a relish with bread and butter or biscuits for luncheon, supper, &c. Cream cheese may be made into a paste by mixing it with a little flour and butter, and two or three eggs beaten with a little good cream. Time to prepare, about half an hour. ei . Cheese Pastry, Ramequins of.—Take some good puff paste. Any that is left after wnaking pies, tarts, &c., will answer the purpose. ‘Roll it out lightly, and sprinkle over it nicely-. flavoured grated cheese. Fold'the paste in three,. and sprinkle every fold with the cheese... Cut ‘little shapes out'with an ordinary pastry cutter, brush them over with the. beaten yolk of egg, and bake in a quick oven. .Serve them as hot as possible. Time-to bake, ten minutes. ‘Probable vost, 10d. for half.a pound of paste. Sufficient for three or four persons. ' Cheese Patties.—Line some tartlet tins with good puff paste, and half fillthem with a ‘ixture made thus:—Put a quarter of a pound of cheese, cut into small pieces, in a mortar with a pinch of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, , half a tea-spoonful of raw mustard; and’a piece of butter the size of an egg. Pound it smoothly, and add, by degrees, the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, and a table-spoonful of sherry. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, ‘and just ‘before the patties are is be baked add the white of an egg beaten toa solid froth. Bake ‘in'a “t oven. Time; about a quarter of an hour. 1-118 ) ‘Have-ready a well-oiled ‘CHE Probable cost, 13d. each. Allow one person. Cheese, Potted.—Put half a pound of cheese, Cheshire, Glo’ster, or Stilton, cut into small pieces, into a marble mortar, with one ounce arid a half of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of for each : sifted loaf sugar, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, and a little cayenne, curry powder, or anchovy powder. Pound these ingredients well together, and as soon as the mixture becomes a smooth paste, put it into a jar, cover it, with clarified butter, and tie’ it up’ closely. A little sherry may be added or’ not. Potted cheese is good spread: on bread and butter, and is more digestible than when eaten in the usual way.. Dry cheese may be used for it. If very dry a'larger proportion of, butter will be required. If the butter used is. sweet, and it.is. covered quite closely, it will keep good for two or three weeks. Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Cheese Pudding. —Put a breakfast- cupful of milk into a saucepan, with a ‘piece of butter the size of a large egg.’ Let it remain ‘until the butter is melted, then pour it over three-quarters of a pound of bread-crumbs, and half a pound of grated cheese; let these soak for twenty minutes, then add a pinch of salt and four eggs well beaten. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered dish, and bake in a quick oven. This is a good way to finish up a rather dry crust of cheese. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost,.exclusive of the cheese, 9d. Sufficient for six persons. t : Cheese Pudding (another way).—Dis- solve a piece of butter the size of a walnut ina cupful of new milk, and pour it over a table- spoonful of bread-crumbs; let it soak for.a little while, then add two eggs well beaten, and half a pound of finely-grated cheese. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered mould, and bake in a quick even. Serve as hot as possible. Time to bake, twenty minutes or more. Probable cogt, 5d., exclusive of the cheese. Sufficient for three or four persons. ‘Cheese Pudding (another way).—Take half a pound of finely-grated cheese, and mix it with the well-beaten yolks of five eggs ; add two ounces of fresh butter beaten to a cream, and a cupful of new milk, and last of all, put inthe white of an egg whisked to a solid froth. Line ‘theedges of a dish with puff paste, well butter the inside, pour in the mixture, and bake in-a goodoyen.. Before serving, strew alittle grated Parmesan cheese over the pudding. Tim to bake, -half an hour. Probable cost, 182 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons.’ aye Cheese Ramequins.—Mix two ounces of flour. very smoothly .with. a cupful.. of water, and put it, with.a little. salt and pepper, and a piece of butter about the size of ap egg, into a saucepan, Let it boil for three or four minutes, then stir in four ounces of fine ‘Cheshire cheese crumbled; let it boil another minute, and add three eggs well-beaten; put them in gradually, stirring all the time. baking-tin, and drop CHE (119 ) -CELE this mixture upon it, in lumps about the size of a small apple. Press them slightly in the centre, brush them over with egg, and put a tea-spoonful of Gruyére cheese in small pieces inthe middle. Bake: in a hot oven, and serve as hot.as possible. If preferred Parmesan cheese may be used instead of Cheshire. Time to bake, about twelve minutes. Sufficient for four or five ramequins. Probable cost, Is. , Cheese Ramequins (another way).— Crumble a small stale roll, and cover it with a breakfast-cupful of new milk boiling; let it soak for a quarter of an hour, then strain it, and put it in a mortar with four ounces of Par- mesan cheese and four ounces .of, Cheshire cheese, both grated, four ounces of fresh butter, half a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a little salt and pepper, half a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a small quantity of pounded mace. Pound these ingredients well together with the yolks of four eggs. Have ready some small moulds. Just before they are ready to bake, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a solid froth. Little paper trays may be used to bake the ramequins in. Rather more than half fill them, and bake in a quick oven. Serve as hot as possible. Time ‘to bake, from ten to fifteen minutes. ae cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for twelve cakes. Cheese Sandwich.—Put three ounces of good rich cheese, cut into small pieces, into a' mortar with an ounce of butter, atea-spoonful of made mustard, and two boned anchovies. Pound these ingredients to a smooth paste, spread this , between two slices of brown bread and butter, and Jay over. it very thin. slices of salt beef,’ ham, or tongue. Cut the sandwiches into pretty shapes, and arrange them on a napkin. garnished with bunches of green parsley. Time, half an hour to prepare. Sufficient, allow one sandwich for each person. Probable. cost, 2d. each. ! Cheese Soup, without Meat.—Grate' very finely half a pound of rather dry Gruyére or any other light-coloured: cheese; strew a layer of it at the bottom of the soup tureen, and over this place two or three very thin slices of the stale crumb of bread. Repeat this. until all ’ the cheese is used, when one-fourth of the depth ' of the tureen should be occupied. Put a piece of fresh butter about the size of an egg into a saucepan ; let it melt, and stir into it, very smoothly, a table-spoonful of flour, and let it remain on the fire, stirring it constantly, until it browns; then throw in two table-spoonfuls of finely-minced onions. When they are browned, stir in gradually a quart.of water, let it boil, season with pepper and salt, and just before pouring it into the tureen, brown it with a Tittle caramel (see Caramel), Let the soup stand a couple of minutes before the fire to soak the bread and cheese, and when:that is done, serve at once. The contents of the tureen should not be disturbed till it appears on the table. Time, ‘one hour. ' Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. ‘Cheese, Stewed,—This is a good way to use cheese which has become too dry to serve in the ordinary manner. Of course fresh cheese is, to, be preferred... Put. two ounces of good double;.. Glo’ster or Cheshire cheese, chopped. small, into a saucepan, with half an ounce..of butter, or more, if the cheese is very dry., Add sufficient cream or new milk to cover it, and let it.\simmer gently, stirring it every now and then, until the cheese is dissolved. Take it from the fire for a minute or two, and mix.in very gradually a well-beaten egg. Serve it on a hot dish, and stick little three-cornered. sippets of toasted bread in it. Serve as hot as possible. Time to stew, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, if made with milk, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Cheese, Stewed (another way).— Pro- ceed exactly as above, but instead of covering the sliced “cheese in the saucepan with new milk, cover it with ale, porter, or port, and flavour it with mixed mustard and cayenne. Serve as hot as possible. Time to stew the cheese, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the ale or wine. Sufficient for four‘persons. = Bie Us age Cheese, Stilton.— This cheese is..con- sidered by competent judges to be preferable to any. other. It should be kept about twelye months in order.to ripen it, and many persons endeavour to accelerate this by scooping out a little cheese in three or four places and pouring good port or old ale into it, then stoppimg the holes again with the cheese, and allowing it to remain two or ;three weeks. When the cheese is ready to serve, the rind should be cut from the top in a slice about a quarter of an inch in thickness, to be used as a lid, and this should be replaced on the top of the cheese when it is sent from the table. It shouldbe kept closely covered in a rather damp place. , It should be served with a clean napkin neatly pinned round it. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. to. 2s. per pound. Re Cheese Straws.— Mix two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, two ounces. of fresh butter, two ounces of flour, an ounce of Cheddar cheese, and the yolk of an egg into a stiff, paste. Flavour the mixture with cayenne, salt, and a very little pounded mace. Roll this out rather thinly, cut it into fingers about four inches long and half an inch wide, bake them for.a, few minutes in a quick oven, and serve cold.. They should be piled on a dish in transverse rows. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Og - Cheese, Toasted.—Slice some good rich cheese. Put it in a cheese-toaster on'a “hot plate, and when it is melted, stir into ‘it some made mustard and pepper. A little port or beer is sometimes added, and if the cheese is at’ ail dry a little butter should be also used. Toast should be served with it.. This dish is worth nothing at all unless it can be served quite hot. Toasted cheese is sometimes sent to table in little tins with boiling water underneath, and this is an excellent way to keep the toast hot. A few minutes will be sufficient to melt the cheese. i Cheese, Toasted. (anather way).—Cut some slices of the crumb of bread about half an inch thick. Toast and butter them well on botb. CHE ( 120 ) CHE sides. Place on the toast a layer of cold roast beef, flavoured with mustard and horse-radish. Over this spread some hot toasted cheese, thoroughly saturated with porter and flavoured with black pepper, salt, and shallot vinegar. This dish, which seems to our modern idea rather indigestible than otherwise, was a fa- vourite supper with our ancestors. Time, a few minutes to toast the cheese. Sufficient, a slice for each person. Probable cost, 2d. per slice, exclusive of the cold meat. Cheese, Toasted, or Welsh Raro- bit.—Cut some slices of the crumb of bread about half an inch in thickness, and toast them lightly on both sides. ‘Lay on them some slices of good, rich cheese, and put them in a cheese- toaster till the cheese is melted. Spread a little made mustard and pepper over them, and serve on very hot plates. It is most desirable to send this dish to table quite hot, as without this it is entirely worthless. Cheese, to Keep.—When a whole cheese is cut, and the consumption small, it generally becomes dry and loses its flavour after it has been used a little while. In order to prevent this, a small piece should be cut for use, and the remainder rubbed with butter, wrapped in a clean cloth, and placed in a covered jar, which should be kept in a cool and rather damp place. If these directions are attended to, a whole cheese might be purchased at a time, and the goodness preserved until it is finished. This will be found to be much more economical than buying it in small quantities. Cheese which has become too dry to be presented at table may be used for stewing, or grated for macaroni. The mould which gathers on cheese should be wiped off with a damp cloth. If any mites appear, a little brandy should be poured over the part. Cheese with Macaroni.—Put a quarter of a pound of pipe macaroni into a saucepan with a little salt, and sufficient boiling milk and water to cover it. Let it boil until it is quite tender but firm, then put a layer of it into a well-buttered dish, and over that sprinkle some bread-crumbs and a mixture of Parmesan and Cheshire cheese. Place three or four lumps of butter on it, and repeat until the ‘dish is full, being careful to have bread-crumbs at the top. Ponr a little butter warmed, but not oiled, over the crumbs, and brown the preparation before a clear fire, or with a salamander, but do not put it in the oven, or it will taste of oil. Serve with salt and mustard. Riband macaroni may be used if preferred, and it will not require so much boiling. It may be boiled in water with- out the milk, and a little butter added instead. Time to boil the macaroni, about one hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cheese with Macaroni (another way). —Boil a quarter of a pound of macaroni in milk and water until it is tender but firm, then drain it and place it at the bottom of a well-buttered pie-dish. Whisk well the yolks of two eggs, and stir into them a breakfast-cupful of cream and half a cupful of the liquid in which the macaroni was boiled. Stir this gently over the fire until it thickens, but on no account allow it to boil. Pour it on the macaroni, and sprinkle over the top three table-spoonfuls of grated cheese. Brown the mixture before a clear fire, or with a salamander, and serve. Time to boil the macaroni, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cheese with Macaroni (another way}. —Drop a quarter of a pound of macaroni in some boiling milk and water, and let it simmer gently until it is quite tender but firm. Put four ounces of grated cheese in a breakfast- cupful of boiled cream or new milk, and place the mixture in a saucepan with a blade of mace, three or four grains-of cayenne, a piece of butter, and a little salt. The cheese must be quite free from rind, and should be stirred constantly until it is quite melted, and we would recommend a mixture of cheeses, as Parmesan, if used by itself, soon gets lumpy. When it is dissolved, add the boiled macaroni to it, first putting it in a sieve for two or three minutes to drain. Let it simmer for a few minutes longer, then put it into a dish, strew over it some finely-grated bread-crumbs, and brown in a hot oven, or with a salamander. ‘Good white sauce may be substituted for the cream. ‘Time, one hour and a half to boil the macaroni. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Cheesecakes.—Beat the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs separately; the whites must be beaten to.a solid froth. Rub the rind of a lemon upon a quarter of a pound. of loaf sugar; then pound it, and mix it with the eggs. Add a quarter of a pound of fresh butter melted, and the juice of two lemons. When these are well beaten together, put the mixture into a large jar, which should be placed in a pan of boiling water on the fire. Stir it constantly until it thickens. Line some tartlet tins with a good light crust, and fill them three parts with the mixture. When nearly baked, take them out of the oven for a minute, brush them over with white of egg, and sift @ little, pounded sugar over them, and put them back into the oven to brown. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 14d. each. Sufficient. for two dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Almond.—Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds and four or five bitter ones; add a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted sugar, a quarter of a pound of butter, the thin rind of a lemon minced as finely as possible, the juice of half a lemon, and atable-spoonful of sherry or brandy. Line tartlet tins with good puff paste, and just before filling them, add the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs. Bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, fifteen or twenty minutes. Pro- bable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for two dozen cheesecakes (see Almond Cheesecakes). Cheesecakes, pera’ half a pound of apples, weighed after they are pared and cored, add the rind of two lemons grated, half a pound of melted butter, half a pound of finely-sifted sugar, and the well-beaten yolks of six eggs. Line the tartlet tins, three parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a CHE ( 121 ) CHE quick oven. Time to bake, fifteen or. twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d.each. Sufficient for three dozen cheesecakes (see Apple Cheesecakes). Cheesecakes, Bread.—Pour a breakfast- cupful of boiling milk over eight ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and when they have soaked a little while, beat them up with three ounces of butter, melted. When quite cold, add three ounces of finely-sifted sugar, three ounces of currants, stoned and dried, and half a small nutmeg grated. Last of all add the yolks of four and the whites of three eggs, beaten with a table-spoonful of brandy. Line the tartlet tins with a good light crust. Rather more than half fill them with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. Probable cost, 14d. each. Sufficient for three dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Home-made.—Put four well-beaten eggs into a saucepan containing a pint of boiling milk, and let it remain on the fire untilit curdles. Pour off the whey, and put the card on an inverted sieve to drain. "When it is quite dry, add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little salt, six ounces of carefully-washed cur- rants, a piece of butter about the size of an egg, melted, two spoonfuls of rose-water or cream, and half a tea-spoonful of pounded cinnamon. Line the tartlet tins with good puff paste, three parts fill them with the mixture, and bake them in a good oven. If a little vinegar or lemon- juice is mixed with milk, then placed on the fire, it will curdle. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1d. each. Sufficient for two dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Home-made (another way).—Mix three heaped table - spoonfuls of ground rice with six of good milk till the paste is quite smooth, then pour on it gradually, stir- ring all the time, a pint of boiling milk. Put it on the fire, and let it simmer till it thickens, then add three table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of ground cinnamon, a little grated lemon-rind, and three ounces of butter. Mix these well together, pour the mixture into a basin, and when cool, stir in four eggs beaten up with a table-spoonful of brandy. Line the tartlet tins with a good light crust, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake them in a quick oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1d. each. Sufficient for four dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Lemon.—Rub the peel of two large lemons with half a pound of loaf sugar. Whisk six eggs thoroughly, add the sugar pounded, and the juice of one lemon. Melt half a pound of butter in a saucepan, with five table-spoonfuls of cream, add the other in- gredients, and stir the mixture over the fire until it begins to thicken. "When cold, fill the tartlet tins, previously lined with good puff paste, a little more than half full, and bake them in a quick oven for fifteen or twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for four dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Orange.— Proceed in the same way as for Lemon Cheesecakes, substituting orange-rind and orange-juice for lemon-rind and lemon-juice. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for four dozen cheesecakes. , Cheesecakes, Potato.—Grate the thin rind of two lemons, then pound them well with two table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, and three ounces of potato which has been boiled until it has become floury. Stir a couple of ounces of clarified butter in with the mixture, and when smooth add the yolks of two and the white of oneegg. Line the tartlet tins with a light crust, rather more than half fill them, and bake in a quick oven. ‘Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1d. each. Sufficient for a dozen and a half cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Savoury.—Mix tho- roughly a pint of well-drained curd, three ounces of butter, and the yolks of six, and the whites of two eggs well beaten. Rub them through a coarse sieve, and add a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan, and a little salt and pepper. If preferred, the curd may be omitted, and a little cream substituted. Of course, in that case, there would be no necessity to rub the mixture through a sieve. Line some tartlet tins with good crust, fill them three-parts with the mixture, and bake in a good oven for about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1}d. each. Sufficient for four dozen cheesecakes. Cheesecakes, Winter. —A curd for cheesecakes may be made by mixing as much grated biscwt with five eggs and a pint of cream as will make a light batter; sugar and flavouring should be added. To make the paste, mix a pound of flour, a table-spoonful of baking powder, and salt, with the whisked whites of two eggs. Divide half a pound of butter into three parts, roll out the pastry three times, and each time spread one part of the butter upon it, flour lightly, and make up as usual. Cheltenham Pudding. — Shred six ounces of suet very finely, add six ounces of flour, a pinch of salt, and a heaped tea-spoonful of baking powder, two ounces of bread-crumbs, three ounces of raisins, three ounces of currants, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix these ingredients well together, and stir into the mixture two well-beaten eggs and sufficient new milk to make it into a stift smooth batter. Pour it into a buttered dish and bake in a good oven. Turn it out when suffi- ciently cooked, and serve with brandied sauce. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 10d. Cherokee, or Store Sauce.—Put a pint of the best vinegar into a large bottle with half an ounce of cayenne, two cloves of garlic finely minced, two table-spoonfuls of soy, and four of walnut ketchup. Let these soak for a month, then strain the liquid and put it into small bottles, which must be kept closely corked. Cherries, Candied.—Choose fine, sound, ripe cherries, take off the stalks, and wipe them with a soft cloth, then pour over them some syrup boiled ready to candy. Moye. them gently about, and, when cold, put them in a cool oven for half an hour to dry. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Halfa ‘CHE ( 122 ) pound of cherries, garnished with leaves, will make a small dish.. Cherries, Candied, with Leaves and Stalks.—Choose sound, ripe cherries, wipe them with a soft cloth, and leave the stalk and two or three leaves on them. Boil some good vinegar, and dip each little branch, but not the fruit, into it when boiling; then take it out and stick it into a piece of cardboard with holes made in it, so that it shall dry equally. Boil a pound of sugar with half a pint of water, remove the scum, and dip each branch in, and let it remain there for one minute, then dry it as before. Boil the sugar and water to the point of candying, pour it over the cherries, &c., move them about to insure their being equally covered with the sugar, place them once more in the card- board, and dry them in a cool oven. They will be found useful for garnishing sweet dishes, and for dessert. Time, about an hour. Pro- bable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Cherries, Compéte of.—Choose ‘large, pe, light-coloured cherries, wipe them, and leave on them about an inch of stalk, making all uniform. Put half a pound of sugar into a saucepan with a breakfast-cupful of water, and let it boil for ten minutes, then put into it a pound and a half of the cherries, and sim- mer them for three minutes. : Dish them with the stalks uppermost. A table-spoonful of brandy may be added to the syrup. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Suffi- vient for a large dish. - Cherries, Compote of (another way). —Take off the stems from Kentish or More cherries. Make a syrup with five ounces of sugar ‘and half a pint of water for the former, but allow another ounce of sugar for the extra acidity of the Morellas. Stew one pound of the fruit in the syrup for twenty minutes ; they may be stoned or not. When the Morellas are very ripe, they may be stewed only ten minutes, and will then be excellent. Time: ten minutes to boil sugar; eight to ten minutes Morellas. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Morella cherries are generally rather more expensive. ' Gherries, Dried.—Stone the cherries carefully without spoiling the fruit. This may be done by pushing the stones through the end with a bodkin or silver skewer.’ Put them into a preserving-pan, and strew amongst them finely-sifted sugar, allowing eight ounces of sugar to every pound of fruit.. Simmer for ten minutes, then pour them into a bowl, and Jeave them until next day, when they must be again simmered for ten minutes; and this process must be repeated for three days. Drain well, put them on a sieve or wire tray, so that they do not touch each other, and place this in an oven sufficiently cool to dry without baking them. They must be turned about every now and then that they may be equally dried. ’ If the oven is too hot, their colour will be spoilt. When dried, keep them in tin boxes with writing-paper between each layer. Kentish cherries are best for this purpose. They will be found useful for garnishing dishes, or for dessert. Probable cost of the cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. mee Cherries, Dried, without: Sugar.— The Kentish cherries are the best for this pur- pose. They should be wiped carefully with a soft dry cloth, to free them from dust, &c., and the stalks cut into even lengths, then putinto a cool oven or in the sun until thoroughly dried. If the latter plan is adopted, the dishes on which they are placed should be changed every day. The stalks should bée put upwards,’ and the bruised or decayed fruit removed. When dry, they should be tied in bunches, and kept in a dry place; and many persons consider them more refreshing and agreeable than when dried with sugar, the acidity of the fruit remaining to a greater degree. In the winter time they may be prepared for dessert in the same way as Normandy pippins. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. bs nh Cherries, Frosted.—Choose large, 'ripe, sound cherries. Wipe them with a dry.-soft cloth, and dip them in a liquid made of -the whites of two eggs which have been whisked to a firm froth and mixed with:a.quarter of a pint of spring water. As the cherries are taken out of the egg, drain them and.roll them one by one in finely-sifted sugar. Put some clean writing paper on an inverted sieve, put them on this so that they do not touch one another, and let them dry till wanted. Time, six or eight hours to dry the fruit. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for a small dessert-dish. Cherries,: Kentish, Compdte of— Put a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar into a saucepan with a breakfast-cupful of water, and boil it for ten minutes. Put in half a pound of Kentish cherries, with about an inch of the stalks left on; let them simmer gently for five minutes. Drain them, and put them intd a compéte dish with the stalks upwards. Boil the syrup five minutes longer; when it is cool, pour it over the cherries. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost of cherries, from 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for a small dish. , Cherries, Morella, Brandied.—The fruit should be freshly gathered, and the largést and best selected. Let each cherry have about an inch of stem left on. Put them into quart bottles with wide necks, and put four ounces of pounded candy-sugar (the brown is the best) into each bottle. Pour in sufficient best French brandy to fill the bottles, and add a few cherry or apricot kernels, or a small portion of cinna- mon, if liked. Time, to infuse, one month. Probable cost, 4s. to 6s. per bottle. Cherries, Morella, To Preserve.— Choose sound, ripe Morell cherries, and allow one pound and a quarter of sugar, and half a cupful of red or white ‘currant juice for every pound of cherries, Pick and stone the cherries, or, if preferred, merely prick each one with a needle. Put the sugar and syrup into a pre- serving-pan, and let it boil for ten minutes. Throw in the cherries, and simmer them gently until theylook bright and clear. Turn the fruit into jars. Cover with oiled papers, and tissue paper dipped in strong gum. Time to boil, CHE (123 ) CHE about half an hour. Probable cost of cherries, 10d. per pound. «-- Cherries Preserved in Syrup.— Choose light, sound, ripe ‘cherries. “ Remove the stones without injuring the fruit, which: may be done by drawing them’ out with the stalk, or pushing them out at one end with a bodkin or quill, Allow a pint-and a half of water and a pound of, sugar for every pound of fruit, weighed after it has been stoned. Put the sugar and water into a preserving-pan, and Jet it boil for a quarter of an hour, skimming it carefully ; then throw in the fruit, and let it boil ‘for another quarter of an hour. Pour it with the syrup into a large jar, and let it remain until next day, when the cherries must be put into a sieve to drain, and a pint of white cur- rant juice (see Currant Juice) allowed for every four pounds of cherries. e juice and the syrup must be boiled together fifteen minutes, when the cherries may be put with them and boiled again for four or five minutes. Put the cherries into jars, cover them with the syrup, lay brandy. papers on the top, and tie them down closely. _ It will be more economical in small families to put the preserve into one- pound pots, as there is an amount of evapora- tion in larger jars, which makes a considerable difference ‘in the expense. Probable cost of cherries, 3d: to 6d. per pound. : »;Cherries, To Bottle.— Have ready some wide-mouthed bottles, such as are gener- ally used for bottling fruit, and ascertain that they are quite dry. Cut the stalks from the cherries—do not pull them out—put the fruit into the bottles, shake them down, and put two table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted loaf sugar at the top of every bottle. Cork them closely, and tie them down; put them into a large pan of cold water, bring it to a boil, let it stand on the hob for five minutes, then lift the boiler from the fire, and let the bottles remain in it ‘until the water is cold. -The juice of the fruit ought to cover it. The corks must:be looked after when the fruit has been scalded, and re- fitted if necessary. When the fruit comes ‘to’ be used, the juice ought to be strained off, and boiled with a little sugar, and, when cold, put into the tarts instead of water. Time, about an hour. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Cherries, To Pickle.—Choose sound, not over-ripe Kentish cherries, wipe them care- fully,.and put them into jars, leaving about an inch of their stalks. Boil sufficient French vinegar to cover them, and boil one pound of |. sugar and a few grains of cayenne with eyery acaet of sail When cold; add a few drops of cochineal, and cover the cherries. Tie them down closely. They will be ready for use in three or four weeks. Probable cost of cherries, 3d, to 6d. per pound. , ‘Cherries, To Preserve.—Take two poundsiof sound, ripe Kentish cherries, weighed after they have been picked and stoned. Put a pound of sifted sugar into the preserving- pan with half a pint of red currant juice, or, if this is not at hand, water, and let it boil for five minutes. Throw in the cherries, which ought not to have been injured in the stonin and let them boil for ten eres stirring then only just.enough to keep them from. burning, as it 1s very desirable not to break them. ,, Pour all together into a bowl, and let it remain until next day, then drain the fruit, boil, the syrup with eight ounces ,more sugar, and boil the cherries in it again for another ten minutes. Put the preserve in jars, and cover closely,,as ae the, al ean of cherries for, pre- Serving, 1b 18 necessary that the greatest.care should be observed. “The slightest deviation from the instructions given here will make the cherries unpalatable. s Ve Cherries, To Preserve (another way). —Choose sound, ripe cherries (May Dukeg or Kentish cherries will be the best for the pur- pose), stone them, and after: stoning take half their weight in sugar, and half a pint of water for each pound of sugar. Boil the sugar and water together to make.a clear syrup, put.in the fruit, and let it boil for eight minutes, being careful not to break the fruit when stirring, it. Pour it into a bowl, and leave it for twenty-four hours. Strain off the fruit, and boil the syrup again with the addition of one half the original weight in sugar. Again put in the fruit, and boil for eight minutes more, When the pre- serve is cold turn it into jars, and cover it in the usual way. : eT Cherry Brandy (to be made in July or August).—The Morella cherry is gener- ally used for this purpose, on account of its peculiar acidity. It ripens later than other cherries, and is more expensive. It is' seldom used as a dessert fruit; nevertheless, if allowed to hang until fully ripe, it is very refreshing and agreeable to many palates. The cherries for brandy should be. gathered in dry weather, and must be used when fresh. They ought not to be over ripe. Wipe each one with a soft cloth, and cut the stalks, leaving them about half an inch in length. A little more than half fill wide-necked bottles such as are used for bottling fruit. Allow three ounces of pounded sugar with each pound of fruit, which must.be | placed in withit. ill the bottles with the best French brandy. Do not make the mistake of supposing that the fruit and sugar will make bad spirit pass for good. Cork the bottles se- curely, and seal over the top. The cherries may be used in a month, but will be. better. in two. Three or four cloves put in the bottle are by many considered, animprovement. Probable cost of Morella cherries, 10d. to 1s. per pound. Cherry Brandy (another way).—Choose sound, fresh Morella cherries, wipe them, and cut off the stalks,to within half an inch, prick each. cherry with a needle, half fill a wide- necked bottle with them, and to each bottle, put a dozen scraped bitter almonds and a quarter of a pound of white sugar candy crushed small. Fill with best French brandy, cork securely, and seal over the top. The brandy will be better if kept for a few months. Probable cost of cherries, 10d. to 1s. per pound. : Cherry Brandy (another way). ~~ Put six pounds of black cherries, six pounds of Morellas,.and two pounds of strawberries in a CHE ( 124 ) CHE cask. Bruise them slightly with a stick, then add three pounds of sugar, twelve cloves, half an ounce of powdered cinnamon, and two nutmegs grated, with a quarter of the kernels of the cherry-stones, and a handful of mint and balm. Pour over these six quarts of brandy or gin. Let the cask remain open for ten days, then close it, and in two months it will be fit for use. Probable cost, Morella cherries, 10d. to 1s. per pound. Sufficient for one gallon and a half of cherry brandy. Cherry Cheese.—Take some sound, ripe Kentish cherries stoned or not as preferred; put them into a stone jar, cover it closely, and place this in « saucepan of boiling water, and let it simmer gently until the fruit is quite soft. When the cherries are sufficiently tender, take them from the fire, skin and stone them, and add half a pound of finely-sifted sugar to every pound of fruit. Add a few of the kernels blanched. Put the mixture into a pre- serving-pan, and boil it gently stirring it all the time, until the fruit is so dry that it will not adhere to the finger when touched, and is quite clear. Press it quickly into shallow jars which have been damped with brandy. Cover closely, and keep in a dry place. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound. Cherry Drink.—Wash and stone half a pound of sound ripe cherries, bruise and pour over them a pint of boiling water, and add a piece of thin lemon-rind, or, if preferred, a few of the kernels bruised. Let them soak for four or five hours, then strain and sweeten the liquid with two ounces of sifted loaf sugar, and, if liked, add a dessert-spoonful of brandy. This is a refreshing beverage in hot weather. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for one person. Cherry Jam.—Choose sound, ripe Kentish cherries, remove the stones, and boil the kernels in a little water to draw out the flavour; this will impart a very agreeable flavour to the jam. Weigh the fruit, after stoning it, and allow one pound of sifted sugar to one pound of fruit. Put the sugar into a preserving-pan with a cupful of the water in which the kernels were boiled to each two pounds of fruit, making up the measure with water, or red currant juice. Boil to a syrup, then add the fruit and boil it very quickly until it is on the point of jellying. Pour it into jars, cover it with brandied paper, and put over this paper dipped in gum. Time to boil the sugar and water or juice to a syrup, about ten minutes; the syrup and fruit to the point of jellying, about forty minutes. Pro- bable cost, 8d. or 9d. per pound. Cherry Paste.— Cherry paste is made in much the same way as cherry cheese, except that the fruit is boiled nearly dry before the sugar is added, and then that the weight of the pulp is taken in sugar, and boiled with it until the fruit leaves the pan entirely, and adheres to the spoon. It is then pressed into moulds, and kept like other dried fruits. It should not be covered up until it is quite dry. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per Ib. Cherry Pie.—Black cherries are generally considered best for pies. Wash and pick the fruit, and place it in a pie-dish, piling it high in the middle; strew a little sugar over it, and cover it with a good light crust. Bake in a good oven for about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. A pie made with two pounds of fruit will be sufficient for four or five persons. Cherry Pudding, Baked.—Wash and stone the cherries, put a layer of them at the bottom of a well-buttered pie-dish, and strew over this a little sifted sugar and a small quantity of finely-chopped lemon-rind; lay over these some thin bread and butter, and repeat the layers until the dish is full, finishing with cherries strewn over with sugar; pour a large cupful of water over the whole, and bake in a good oven. This pudding may be made with dried or preserved cherries, when, instead of water, a little custard may be used to moisten the bread. The kernels of the cherries, too, may be blanched and sliced, and used instead of lemon-rind. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. A pudding made with two pounds of cherries will serve for five or six persons. Cherry Pudding, Boiled.—Make some good suet crust, line a plain, round buttered basin with it, leaving a little over the rim; fill it with cherries, washed and picked, add a little sugar and some finely-chopped lemon-rind, wet the edges of the paste, lay a cover over the pudding, and press the edges closely round. Tie a floured cloth over the pudding, and plunge it into a saucepan of boiling water, which must be kept boiling, or the pudding will become heavy. Before turning it out, dip the basin into cold water for a moment. Serve with sifted sugar. A small pudding will require about two hours to boil. If the cherries are not fully ripe, a longer time must be allowed. Probable cost of cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cherry Sauce.—Take one pound of sound, ripe cherries, wash and stone them. Blanch the kernels, and put them in a saucefian, with just enough water to cover them, and let them simmer gently until the flavour is thoroughly extracted Put the cherries into a saucepan with a pint of water, a glass of port, four cloves, a slice of bread toasted, and a little sugar. Let these stew gently until the fruit is quite soft, then press the whole through a sieve, add the liquid from the kernels, boil up once more, and serve. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Pro- bable cost, cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Cherry Sauce, for Sweet Puddings. —Pick and stone a pound of cherries, and pound the kernels to a paste. Mix a tea- spoonful of arrowroot smoothly with a little cold milk, and pour over it half a pint of boil- ing milk. Boil it for two or three minutes, then stir into it the cherries and the kernels, a tea- spoonful of minced lemon-rind, half a nutmeg grated, a table-spoonful of sugar, and a wine- glassful of port. Let these simmer gently until the cherries are quite cooked; press them through @ coarse sieve, boil the sauce again for two or three minutes, and serve it very hot. Good CHE ( 125 ) CHE melted butter may be substituted for the arrow- root, if preferred, and when fresh cherries are not in season, cherry jam may be used. The sauce ought-to be as thick as custard and the colour of the cherries. It is very nice for boiled or baked egg puddings. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the wine. ‘This quantity will suffice for a moderate-sized pudding. Cherry Soup, German.—In German bills of fare sweet soups are frequent, and are liked by some persons very much. Put a piece of butter the ‘size of a large egg into a sauce- pan, let it melt, then mix with it a table-spoon- ful of flour, and stir smoothly until it is lightly browned. Add gradually two pints of water, a pound of black cherries, picked and washed, and a few cloves. Let these boil until the fruit is quite tender, then press the whole through a sieve. After straining, add a little port, half a tea-spoonful of the kernels blanched and bruised, a table-spoonful of sugar, and a few whole cherries. Let the soup boil again until the cherries are tender, and pour all into a tureen over toasted sippets, sponge-cakes, or macaroons. ‘Time, one hour anda half. Pro- bable cost, cherries, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Suffi- cient for three or four persons. Cherry Tart.—Line the edges of a deep pie-dish with a good short crust. Fill it with cherries, picked and washed, put a cup or small jelly pot in the middle of the dish, strew a, little sugar over, and a few red currants if they can be got, as they will considerably improve the flavour of the tart. Cover the dish with a crust, and ornament the edges. Brush the tart all over with cold water, and sprinkle white sugar upon it. Bake in a goodoven. Time to bake, thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost of a medium- sized tart, 10d, Sufficient for five or six persons. Cherry-water Ice.—Boil a pound of sugar with a pint and a half of water, remove the scum as it rises; when it is clear, pour it into a large jug containing one pound of Kentish cherries bruised, a few of the kernels, blanched, and pounded in a mortar, the juice of two lemons, and a glass of noyeau. Let these soak : strain, add a few drops of cochineal, and freeze. Imbed in the ice till wanted. Probable cost, 9d. for this quantity, exclusive of the noyeau. Sufficient for one quart of ice. Cherry-water Ice (another way).—Pick the stalks from one pound of ripe cherries, and crush them in a mortar to make the juice flow, adding a pint of clarified sugar and half a pint of water. Flavour with noyeau or vanilla, and squeeze in the juice of two lemons; add a few drops of cochineal if required, strain the liquid, and freeze. The kernels should be pounded with the fruit. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for one quart of ice. : Chervil.—Chervil is fit for drying in May, June, and July. Its leaves are tender and delicious, combining the flavour of parsley and fennel, though more aromatic than either. It may be used in salads, and for sauces, and also be prepared in the same way as parsley, It must not be forgotten that the root is poisofious. Cheshire Cream,—Put the thin rind of a small lemon into a breakfast-cupful of thick cream. Let it remain for an hour or more, then take it out, and add asmall tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and a glass of sherry. Whisk these thoroughly, and place the froth, as it is made, on a sieve to drain, and let it remain five or six hours. When ready to serve, put it on a glass dish, with a border of macaroons or cocoa-nut bis- cuits round it. Probable cost, 1s. 10d., exclusive er a sherry. Sufficient for a small supper- _ Chester Buns.—Rub two ounces of butter into one pound of fine flour, add a pinch of salt and one table-spoonful of sugar. Stir into these an egg, a table-spoonful of yeast, and a breakfast-cupful of lukewarm milk. Knead well, and put the bowl which contains the dough before the fire to rise, covering it with a cloth. When it has sufficiently risen, divide it into six or eight parts, shape into rounds, place them on a buttered tin, and let them rise five minutes more, then bake ina quick oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, for this quantity, 6d. Sufficient for six or eight buns. Chester Pudding.—Whisk the yolks of two eggs, and mix them with a table-spoonful of finely-sifted sugar, half a dozen sweet and half a dozen bitter almonds, blanched and pounded, the finely-minced rind and juice of half a lemon, and a piece of butter about the size of an egg. Stir these over a moderate fire for afew minutes, then pour the mixture into a small buttered | pie-dish lined with good puff paste. Put it into the oven, and, while it is baking, whisk the unused whites of the eggs to a firm froth. When the pudding is very nearly ready, cover it with the froth, sift sugar thickly over it, and stiffen it a few minutes in the oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes; five minutes to set the white of egg. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for one person. Chestnut Forcemeat, for Roast Fowl.—Roast and peel a dozen large chest- nuts; boil them for about twenty minutes in some strong veal gravy, drain, and, when cold, put them into a mortar, blanch and mince them, with the liver of the fowl, a tea-spoonful of grated ham, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea- spoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful of chopped onions,a small pinch of grated lemon-rind, three grains of cayenne, two table-spoonfuls of bread- crumbs, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and. the yolks of two eggs. Pound the dry ingredients in a mortar, and moisten them with the butter and eggs. This forcemeat is excellent for a large fowl. Time to prepare, about twenty minutes. Probable cost of chestnuts, 2d. or 3d. per pint. This quantity will serve for one large fowl. Chestnut Pudding.—Take some chest- nuts, and make a little incision in the skin of each one, throw them into boiling water, and let them remain until tender. Remove the shella and skins, dry them in the oven, and ‘afterwards pound them to powder. Mix half a ound of this powder with six ounces of butter eaten to @ cream, two table-spoonfuls of sifted CHE ( 126 ) CHE sugar, two ior three drops of the essence of vanilla, a breakfast-cupful of milk, and six well- beaten eggs. Stir these well together, then pour the mixture into a well-buttered mould, place a piece of buttered writing paper over the _ top, and steam for an hour and a half, or, if preferred, bake in a good oven, Serve with wine sauce. Probable cost,.1s. 8d. Sufficient: for four or five persons, Chestnut Sauce, Brown.—Prepare the chestnuts as in the following recipe, but instead of adding cream or milk to the paste, mix them with a little good brown gravy, and season the sauce rather highly. Time to roast the chest- nuts, according to the quality. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pint. Sufficient for one roast fowl. Chestnut Sauce, White.—Roast a dozen chestnuts until quite tender, then remove the brown rind and the skin under it, and put them into a mortar with a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, half a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a piece of butter about the size of a walnut. Pound these together to a smooth paste, which must be put into a sauce- pan, and mixed with a breakfast-cupful of milk or cream; stir the liquid till it boils. This sauce,is excellent for boiled fowls. Time to roast the chestnuts, varying with the quality. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d. per pint, if made with milk. Sufficient for one fowl. Chestnut Soup.—Take off the outer rind from. fifty chestnuts, and put them into a saucepan of cold water. Place them on the fire, and when the water is just upon the point of boiling, take them out and remove the under skin. - Stew them in sufficient stock to cover them until quite tender; put them in a mor- tar,.and pound them to a paste, reserying a dozen to be placed whole in the soup just before it is dished. Pound with the paste twotable- spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper,.and half a nutmeg grated. Mix with it very gradually the stock in which the-chestnuts were boiled, if its sweetness is not objected to, allowing a quart of the mixture and a pint of milk to every quart of stock. Boil all together once more, with the chestnuts which were reserved, and if the soup is too thick, add a little more stock. Be- fore serving, place some fried sippets in the tureen.’ The stock may be either made from meat or from vegetables alone. Time, two and a half hours. Sufficient. for eight or nine per- sons. Probable cost, exelusive of. the stock, 10d. per quart... large chestnuts, peel and put them into a saucepan of cold water. ‘When the water is just on the point of boiling, take them off, remove the second skin, and be careful not to break the chestnuts.. Make a syrup with a breakfast-cupful of water and a quarter of a pound of sugar, adding a glass of sherry and the rind of half an orange or a lemon cut very thin. Put the chestnuts into this,and Jet them simmer: gently for twenty: minutes. . Strain the syrup over the chestnuts, and. serve. hot. Sift a little sugar over them. Time, about forty minutes. Probable cost, chestnuts, 8d. or 4d. per pint. The above quantity will make a moderate-sized dish. ; Chestnuts, Purée of.—Take fifty large chestnuts—those are the best which have no division, and, when the skin is removed, are entire. Take off the outer brown skin,' and boil the chestnuts until the inner skin will come off easily, when it also must be removed. Having done this, put the chestnuts into a saucepan with sufficient white stock to cover them, and boil them gently until they are quite soft, when they must be pressed, while hot, through a wire sieve. The pulp must then be put into a, stewpan, with a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, a cupful of cream or new milk, half a cupful of the stock in which they were simmered, and a little salt, pepper, and sugar. Stir this over the fire until quite hot, when it may be placed in the middle of a dish of cutlets. Time, two hours. Probable cost of chestnuts, 3d. or 4d. per pint. Sufficient for four or five persons. Chestnuts, :Roasted for Dessert.— Cut a little piece of the outer shell off each chestnut; this is to prevent them bursting when, hot. Boil them for about ten minutes; do not allow them to cool, but put them into.a tin in the oven, or into a Dutch oven before the fire, - and let them remain until they are quite soft. Fold them in a napkin, and serve quite hot. Salt should be eaten with them. Time to bake, about ten minutes. Probable cost of chestnuts, 3d. or 4d. per pint. Sufficient, one pint for foux or five persons. Chestnuts, Stewed (to be served as a vegetable).—Remove-the outer rind from sound chestnuts, then fry them in a little butter, when. the inner skin may easily be freed from them. Put them into a saucepan with some good stock, and boil them until they are tender but unbroken. The chestnuts should be removed from the gravy as soon as they ‘are cooked, and served in a tureen, with a little white sauce poured over them. Time to boil the chestnuts, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 3d. or 4d. per pint. Sufficient, one quart for a tureenful. Chetney, or Chutnee Sauce.—This is an Indian preparation, and a dozen different recipes might be given for it. It cannot how- ever be prepared in England to resemble ex« actly that which is made in the East, as, of course the fresh fruits requisite for it cannot be obtained. It may be bought’at the Italian warehouses; but, until’ we can be quite secure @ , i : _ ‘| from adulteration, pickles and store sauces are Chestnuts, Compéte of.—Take thirty: the outer brown skin, . better made at home. Some sort of acid fruit is indispensible for it. Mangoes are used in India, but here green gooseberries, tomatoes, and ‘sour‘apples must be used. Put into a marble mortar four ounces of salt, four ounces of raisins, stoned and minced very finely, three ounces of onions, and three ounces’of garlic, also finely minced, two ounces of mustard-seed. well bruised, and half an ounce of cayenne pepper. Pound these well, then mix with them very gradually fourteen ounces of sour apples, weighed after they have been pared and cored, and boiled with one pint of strong brown vinegar. and.four ounces of sugar. Mix the CHI (127 ) CHI ingredients thoroughly, bottle the preparation, and cork tightly. The longer this sauce is kept the better it will be. ‘Time to prepare, about one hour and, a half.- Probable cost, 1s, 3d. per pint. It is used like mustard with cold meat, and, for,sauces and gravies. Chichester Pudding,—Rub the rind of half'a lemon upon a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, powder this, and mix it with a crumbled roll, and a quarter of a pound of butter. Add the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, and a des- sert-spoonful of lemon-juice. After mixing the ingredients thoroughly, add the whites of two of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Stir the mixture over the fire to a thin batter, then. pour it into a well-buttered pie-dish, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, 1s,,, Sufficient for three persons. aes Chicken, The.—Those chickens are the best which have small bones, short legs, and clean, white-looking flesh. Chickens with white legs should be boiled, those with black legs roasted. The flesh of chickens is generally con- sidered more ‘digestible than any other animal food. These birds are cheapest in November. Spring chickens are to be obtained in April. It is better to kill them one or two days before they are dressed. Chickens are always better for being singed, as it gives firmness to the flesh. Chicken (i' la Creci).—Cut half a pound of bacon into ‘dice, and fry these lightly, then put them into a saucepan, and with them twelve shallots, twelve button mushrooms, two large carrots cut into pieces the size and shape of a walnut, and twelve chestnuts roasted and peeled. Let these be already dressed when they are put into the saucepan. Add the flesh of a chicken cut into fillets, cover it with good brown gravy, and stew it gently for a quarter of an hour, when a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a blade of mace pounded, and a glass of Madeira, or any white wine, may be added. Simmer for five minutes longer, take out the chicken, and place it on a dish; if necessary, thicken the gravy a little, then pour it. over the meat. Place the chestnuts, carrots, &c., round it, together witha few mushrooms,, Garnish the dish with toasted sippets. Pro- ‘bable cost, chicken, 2s.6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. oe Chicken (41'Estragon).—Put some tarra- gon leaves in“hot water, dry. them, and chop them small; make a forcemeat by mincing the chicken’s liver, and mixing with itan equal quantity of bacon, a little of the chopped tarragon, some nutmeg, salt, and pepper: stuff the bird with this, cover it with slices of bacon,’ tie over it some sheets of buttered paper, and roast it before.a clear fire. Boil some nicely- flavoured stcck with the remainder of ‘the tarragon leaves, thicken it with a little brown thickening, or with flour and butter, and add salt, pepper, and a little lemon-juice. Send this to table with the chicken. Time to roast, half an hour for a small chicken. Sufficient dor two or three persons. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. : . stock to make the sauce a nice thickness. Chicken (& la Marengo).—Cut a fine chicken into neat joints, season it with salt and cayenne, and fry it till done in about half a tumblerful of oil or clarified butter. When half cooked, add a clove of garlic, two shalots, and a faggot of sweet herbs. Drain the meat from the fat, and mix with the latter a table- spoonful of flour, and, very gradually, sufficient good stock to make the sauce of the consistence of thick cream. Stir it till it is thick and smooth. Put the chicken on a hot dish, strain: the sauce over it, and serve. . Remember‘ that the fat must not be skimmed from the sauce. If liked, mushrooms or fried eggs may be taken to garnish the dish. Time, about twenty-five | minutes to fry the chicken, , Sufficient for four or five persons. Chicken (i Ja Sainte Menehould).— Fricassee a chicken so that the gravy, when cold, will be a solid jelly; put them between two dishes till cold; egg them well, strew over them finely-grated bread-crumbs, then dip them into egg, and then into bread-crumbs again. Fry them in hot butter or lard, and send a rich brown sauce to table with them. Time to fry, ten or fifteen minutes: Probable cost, 2s..6d. Sufficient for three persons. . Chicken {aux Fines Herbes).—Make a forcemeat by mincing the liver of a ‘chicken, and adding to it a tea-spoonful each of chervil, tarragon, chives, and parsley, all finely minced, two pinches of salt, and one of pepper; work these ingredients together with a little butter, put them inside the chicken, and sew it up to prevent the forcemeat escaping ; cover the bird with slices of bacon, place over that some but- tered paper, and roast before a clear fire. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a sauce- pan, and, when it is hot, fry in it a large onion sliced, and a large carrot ; mix in very smoothly a table-spoonful of flour; and add sufficient Add a glass of white. wine and a tea-spoonful each of pimpernel, chervil, tarragon, and garden cress, all finely minced. Simmer the gravy gently for an hour, strain it, and, if necessary, put in with it a little more salt and pepper. ‘When it has simmered for a short time, serve the gravy in the dish which contains the ‘chicken. Time, half an hour to roast. the chicken ; an hour and a quarter. to make the gravy. Sufficient, one chicken for three persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. ‘Chicken, Baked, in Rice.—Cut a chicken into neat joints, and season each with pepper, salt, and a very little pounded mace. Place some slices of bacon at the bottom ofa deep dish, lay the} chicken upon it, strew over it a finely-minced onion, pour a breakfast-cup- ful of veal stock over all, and :pile up the dish with boiled rice. Put a cover on, and bake for an hour. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d, Sufficient for four or five persons. , Chicken, Boiled.—Wash a chicken care- fully in lukewarm water, and truss it firmly; put it into hot water, remove the scum as it rises, let it' boil, then draw it 'to'the side and let it simmer gently until ready, and remem- ber‘that the more slowly it boils the tenderer CHI (128 ) CHI and whiter it will be. Before putting it in the pan, place a few slices of lemon on the breast, and wrap the chicken first in buttered paper, then in a floured cloth. Before serving it a little sauce may be poured over it, and the rest ~ gent to table in a tureen. Bacon, pickled pork, ham, or tongue, are generally served with boiled chicken; and parsley and butter, béchamel, English white sauce, celery, oyster, or mush- room sauce may accompany it. Time to boil, ‘twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost ef chicken, 2s.6d. Sufficient, one small chicken for two persons. Chicken, Broiled (with Mushroom Sauce).—Pick and wash a chicken carefully, and dry it in a cloth; cut it down the back, truss the legs and wings as if for boiling, and flatten both sides as much as possible. always better to boil it gently for a few minutes before it is broiled, but this is often omitted. When cold, brush it all over with clarified butter, and remember to baste it now and then whilst cooking it; broil it over a clear, low fire. It should be placed a good distance from the fire, and the inside should be put to it first. The butter should be renewed three or four times, Serve very hot, and let stewed mush- rooms be sent to table on a separate dish. Time, half to three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for two persons. A small, young chicken should be chosen for this method of cooking. Chicken Broth.—This may be made from the inferior joints of a fowl, the best pce being cooked in some other way; or the ‘owl may be used after it is cooked, in which case only just enough water must be put over it to cover it. Roast it for twenty minutes before putting it to boil; by this means the flavour will be improved. Generally speaking, a quart of water may be allowed for a medium- sized fowl. Put it into cold water, with very little salt, and no pepper, as these are better added afterwards, according to the taste of the invalid. Simmer very gently for a couple of hours, and skim the liquid carefully as it comes toa boil. If there is time, pour it out, let it get cold, remove every particle of fat and boil it up again. Chicken broth may be thickened with rice, oatmeal, groats, pearl barley, or arrowroot; and these, besides making it more nutritious, will absorb a portion of the chicken gat, and make it smoother, and lighter of diges- tion. A few pieces of beef put in with the chicken are a great improvement. Probable cost, chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for one pint of broth. ’ Chicken Broth (another way).—The best parts of a young fowl may be used for a fricassee or a prill, and the inferior parts will do for this broth; or, an old fowl my be stewed, till all the bones are bare, in a quart of water, and a little more liquid may be added if necessary. Season the broth with salt, pepper, mace, or onion, according to taste and the appetite of the invalid. "When the fowl has simmered until it has parted with all its nutriment, strain the liquid through a sieve, cool it, and remove the fat before it is warmed for use. This broth is seldom cared for by those who are in good It is health. ‘Time, one hour and a half, or till tender. Probable cost, 28. to 3s. Sufficient for one quart of broth. Chicken Bruised.—Roast a chicken, While it is hot, remove the entire breast, and mince, and pound the flesh in a mortar. Break the legs, pinions, &c., and simmer them with two breakfast-cupfuls of water, until the broth is reduced to one breakfast-cupful, then press the breast through w sieve into the gravy, and flavour the mixture with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little grated lemon-rind. Warm this up, with a cupful of cream, just before it is wanted. This is a good dish for an invalid. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost of chickens, 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient for one in- valid. Chicken, Curried.—This may be made either from uncooked chicken, or with the re- mains of a cold one. When a fresh chicken is used, cut the bird into neat joints and fry them lightly in hot butter or lard till they are brown. Put with them a Spanish onion, sliced, and a few mushrooms, covering all with some good stock. Let this sauce simmer gently for twenty minutes or more. Mix two dessert- spoonfuls of curry paste and a spoonful of ground rice very smoothly with a little water, and add this to the sauce. A little apple pulp or rasped cocoa-nut may be added if the flavour is liked. Just before serving, stir.in a cupful of hot cream, and a squeeze of lemon- juice. Serve the curry in a hot dish, with rice (see Rice Boiled for Curry) piled round it. Probable cost, chickens, 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient for three persons. Chicken, Curried (another way).—Take the remains of a cold fowl cut it into neat joints, and put aside until wanted. Fry a finely-minced apple and an onion sliced, in some hot butter or lard. When they are lightly browned, press them through a sieve and put the pulp into a saucepan with a pint of good gravy Thicken this with a dessert-spoonful of curry powder, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, and a dessert-spoonful of ground rice; boil it gently until it is smooth and thick. Put in the pieces of chicken and let them remain until they are quite hot ; squeeze a little lemon- juice over, and just before serving, add a table- spoonful of thick cream. Serve the curry with rice (see Rice Boiled for Curry) piled round the dish. Time, half an hour. Sufficient for three persons. Probable cost, 10d., exclusive of the cold fowl. Chicken Cutlets. — These are usually made of the legs of fowls, when the white flesh has been taken for something else. Remove the thigh-bones from the legs, but leave the drumstick in its place. Put the legs into a saucepan, cover them with well-flavoured stock, and simmer them very gently till tender. If there is no stock, water must be used, and then flavouring vegetables must be thrown in, a turnip, a carrot, a bunch of parsley, a few sticks of celery, an onion stuck with cloves, and a little pepper and salt. Take the legs up, put them in press between two dishes until cold and CHI ( 129 ) CHI firm, and_trim them neatly to the shape of cutlets, Brush them with oil or butter, dip them in egg and bread-crumb them twice. Fry the prepared cutlets in hot butter or lard till they are nicely browned; turn them two or three times that they may be equally cooked. Place them in a circle on a hot dish, pour Béchamel round them, and, as a garnish, place dressed vegetables in the centre of the cutlets. Sufficient for a medium-sized dish. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. each chicken. Chicken Cutlets (another way).—Take two large chickens, which have been gently stewed until done, then pressed between two dishes until cold. Remove the flesh of the preast and wing on either side of the bone, vhus making four fillets. Then take the meat under the wings, and any nice pieces you can find, and flatten them into the shape and size of the first; dip these cutlets into beaten egg, _ and strew over them bread-crumbs mixed with salt, pepper, and powdered mace. Make some good Béchamel (see Béchamel), and keep it hot. Cut as many sippets of bread as there are cut- lets, make them all of the same shape and size, and fry them in hot butter till they are lightly ‘browned. Place them on a hot dish, fry the cutlets, and place one upon each sippet. Pour the gravy round, and serve. Time, five or six minutes to fry the cutlets. Allow one cutlet for each person. Probable cost, exclusive of ithe chicken, 8d. Chicken Cutlets (French method). — ‘Take the remains of one or two cold chickens. Cut them into neat joints, strew over them a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace, dip them into clarified butter, then into egg, and cover them with bread-crumbs and _finely-minced parsley. Fry them lightly in hot butter or ‘dripping. Put a gurée of sorrel or spinach in the middle of the dish, place the cutlets round it, and grate a little Parmesan cheese over them. Send good gravy made of the bones and trimmings to tablein a tureen. Time, five or six minutes to fry the cutlets. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 10d., ‘exclusive of the cold chicken. Chicken, Devilled.—The best parts of chicken for a devil are the wings and legs. Remove the skin, score the flesh deeply in several places, and rub in a fiery mixture made of salt, pepper, cayenne, mustard, anchovy, and butter. This business should be done overnight. Broil over a clear fire, and serve the fowl hot on a napkin. No sauce is required, Time, ten or twelve minutes to broil. Chicken (en Matelote).—Cut a fine chicken into neat joints. Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan, and when it is hot fry the pieces of chicken in it till they are lightly browned, then lift them out and put them aside until wanted. Fry in the butter six small onions sliced, a large carrot cut into quarters, a parsnip also quartered, and a dozen small mushrooms. Pour over these sufficient stock to cover them, add some savo __ herbs, a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoonful of pepper, and simmer 9—n.E. all gently together until the sauce is richly flavoured. Strain it and thicken it with a little brown thickening, pour into it a glass of claret, and simmer it gently until it is smooth and thick. Put in the chicken, mix with the hash the liver of the chicken pounded, a boned anchovy and half a tea-spoonful of bruised capers, Simmer a quarter of an hour longer and serve. Time, one hour and a half. Pro- bable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for ~ four or five persons. Chicken, Fricasseed.— Choose a fresh, tender chicken. Draw, singe, and skin it, then cut it into neat joints. Soak these. joints in cold water for fifteen minutes, drain them, and put them into a saucepan, witha bunch of savoury herbs, an onion stuck with two cloves, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and enough water to cover them. Bring the liquid to a boil, remove the scum as it rises, and simmer very gently for half an hour, or until the meat is sufficiently cooked. ‘When this point is reached, further boiling will spoil the flavour. Put two ounces of butter, two ounces of flour, and a dessert-spoonful of mush- room powder into a stewpan. Stir the mixture about until it is quite smooth, but do not let it brown; add, gradually, a pint and a half of the liquor in which the chicken was boiled, and simmer gently for half an hour. Put the pieces of chicken into a saucepan with a little of the sauce, and let them warm gently. Thicken the remainder of the sauce with the yolks of three eggs well beaten, and a piece of butter about the size of a walnut; draw the sauce from the fire before adding them, mix a little of it with them first, then pour the mixture into the remainder. The sauce must not boil after the eggs are added. Put the chicken into a dish, pour the sauce over, and take stewed mushrooms to table on a separate dish. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost of chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Chicken, Fricasseed (another way).— Take the remains of a cold chicken; cut it into neat joints. Make some good gravy by simmering the trimmings in some good stock, with an onion stuck with three cloves, a bunch of savoury herbs, a bay-leaf, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for about an hour. Strain the gravy; take a breakfast-cupful of it, and thicken it with a tea-spoonful of flour; let this boil, then put in the chicken. Draw the saucepan from the fire for a minute or two, and mix a little of the sauce with the yolks of two eggs and a cupful of cream; pour the mix- ture into the saucepan, let it get thoroughly hot, but on no account allow it to boil, or the eggs will curdle. Serve with the sauce poured over the chicken. ‘Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 9d., exclusive of the cold chicken, Sufficient for three or four persons. Chicken, Fried.—Take the remains of a cold chicken, cut it into neat joints, salt and pepper these rather highly, and strew over them finely-chopped onion and parsley. Cover them with oil, and squeeze over them the juice of a lemon. Turn the pieces every now and then, and let them remain until they have imbibed the flavour, then dip the pieces in flour, and car fry them in hot butter ov lard. Put a break- fast-cupful of good stock into a saucepan, with a moderate-sized onion stuck with two cloves, a bay-leaf, a little salt and pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a little parsley and tarragon chop- | ped small, Let this sauce boil well; and then strain it. * Serve the pieces of. chicken piled upon, 4 dish, covered with a’ napkin, . gar- nished ‘with fried parsley, and send the | above sauce, or, if preferred, tomato sauce, to table in a tureen. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the chicken. Sufficient for three persons. Ate Chicken, Fried (another way).—Take the remains of a cold chicken, cut it into neat pieces, brush a little oil over each piece, and strew over it, rather thickly, salt and curry powder. half'an inch long and the eighth of an inch wide. Fry them slowly, and keep them-in the pan until they are. a. dark-brown colour, and quite dry. They will require a little care, as they must on no account be burnt.’ Fry the | chicken, strew the onion over it, and serve with minutes. Allow two or three pieces of chicken for each ‘person. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold chicken. 8 ‘Chicken Fritters.—Cut the meat from a dressed chicken into thin neat slices. Flour these well, or, if preferred, draw them through ege,and cover them with bread-crumbs which have been mixed with a little flour, pepper, and salt.. Melt a little butter in a small frying- pan; when hot put in the slices of, meat, and cook them gently, turning them once or twice | during the process, When brown, pile them on a dish, and send brown sauce or tomato sauce to table with them. If preferred, the slices maybe dipped in. batter and fried in hot fat, like Kromeskies ;, or, to make them. more tasty, they. may before being floured be put,into a marinade make of a little chopped paxsley and onion, pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon. .Chicken in Peas.—Take a fresh young chicken. . Cut it into neat joints, and: lay them in a.saucepan with a. quart of fine fresh peas, measured after they are shelled.. Add a piece, of butter about the size of a walnut, a bunch of parsley, a pinch of salt, a small pinch of pepper, and a small onion.. Pour a cupful of good gravy over them, and simmer gently until the liquor is exhausted. Then mix a small lump of butter with a tea-spoonful of flour, and put, this to the peas, which should be boiling when it is put in. Shake the sauce- pan about until the peas are nicely thickened, and serve them piled high ina dish, with the pieces of chicken round; The chicken and peas must be gently stewed. Probable cost: chicken, 2s, 6d, ; peas, 8d. per peck. Sufficient for four persons. ‘Chicken, Marinaded.—Cut a cold rodsted’ chicken into neat joints, season them wéll in salti and cayenne, strew over them shorn onion and parsley, and ‘soak them for. an hour in equal parts of lemon-juice and oil. , Turn them frequently. . Drain them, and.dip tach piece! in'a light batter, or else in white of ( 180°) mince it finely.’ Melt a little butter in a frying-pan, | and fry some onions, cut into thin strips about | slices of lemon. Time to fry the chicken, ten - CHT eggs beaten up, and fry them in hot butter or lard until: lightly browned. . Garnish with fried parsley. Sufficient, one chicken for two or three persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Time to fry, ten minutes. ‘ Chicken, Minced.—Take the remains of a cold chicken, cut off all the meat, and Put a breakfast-cupful of white stock into a saucepan, thicken it with a little flour, and let it boil for twenty minutes; then add half a dozen mushrooms chopped small, half a pint of cream or new milk, a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and the minced chicken. When the mushrooms, are cooked, serve as quickly as possible, with toasted sippets. round the dish. Time, forty minutes. Probable cost, 8d., if made with milk, exclusive of the cold chicken. Sufficient for three persons. Chicken, Mushroom Sauce for.— Put the legs and neck of the chicken, with any trimmings of meat that are to be had, a small piece of mace, ‘six or eight peppercorns, & bunch of savoury herbs, a drachm of celery-seed pruised, a piece of thin lemon-rind, and a boned anchovy, into a saucepan with a pint of water, and let the liquid simmer down to half a pint. Prepare half a pint of young mushrooms, and put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter rolled in flour, half a pint of the liquid strained, and one gill’of cream or new milk, Put the sauce over a gool fire, and stir it until it is sufficiently thick. Pour it round boiled chickens. Time, exclusive of the stock, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 10d.,"if made with milk. Sufficient for a couple of good-sized chickens. _Chicken, Panada (Invatrip Cooxzry).— Take a fresh young chicken, and boil it, until quite tender, in sufficient. water to cover’ it. Take off all the meat from the bones, and pound it in a mortar until quite smooth, with a little of the liquid it was boiled in, and add some salt, nutmeg, and a very little grated lemon-rind. Boil this gently for a few minutes with sufficient liquid to make it of the consistency of thick custard. Time, twenty-five minutes ' to, boil the chicken: Probable‘ cost, chicken, 2s. 6d. A very little of this contains’ a great deal of nourishment, ‘ : Chicken Patties.—Pick the meat from a cold chicken, and mince it very finely. To every six ounces of chicken allow threé ounces of lean ham: also minced, a piece. of butter about the'size of an egg rolled in flour, a small tea- cupful of cream or new milk, and the.'‘same of white stock, two pinches of salt, one of ‘pepper, a‘quarter of a small nutmeg grated, the thin rind of a quarter of a lemon finely grated, and a tea-spoonful. of, lemon-juice. A few minced mushrooms are a great improvement. Put these into a saucepan, and stir them gently for ten minutes, taking care that-they do not burn. . Line some patty-pans with good crust. Put a piece of paper ‘crumpled up or 4 crust of bread into each to support the top while baking, and place a cover of crust over it. When sufficiently baked, take off the top crust, remove the: bread or the paper, three-parts fill the patty with the mixture, replace the cover, being careful not to bredk it, and fasten it; with white of egg. ° CHI (181) CHI Time fo bake, a quarter of an hour. -Probable cost,'2d. each. Allow one for each person. Chicken Pie.—Take two large chickens, arid gut them into neat joints. Put the trim- mings, neck, and bones of the legs into a stewpan, with some pepper and galt, a blade of: mace, an onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a little water, or stock. Let these simmer gently for one hour and a half. They are to make. gravy. Line the edges of a pie-dish with a good crust. Put a layer of chicken at the bottom, then a layer of ham cut in slices, and over that some sausage-meat or forcemeat, and' some hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. Repeat until the dish is full. Pour over all a cupful of . water or white stock, and place a cover on the top. Brush over it the yolk of an egg. Bake in a good oven. When the pie has been in the oven about. half an hour, place a piece of paper over the top to prevent the crust from being frizzled up before the meat is sufficiently cooked. When it-is ready, raise the cover and pour in the gravy made from the bones. Put a trussing-needle into\.the pie to ascertain whether it is suffi- ciently cooked. If it goes through easily, take the:pie out... A pie made with two chickens, sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 6s. : Chicken ‘Pie (a good dish for picnics, breakfast, or lincheon).—Prepare the chicken and ihake the gravy as in the preceding recipe; mike’ a forcemeat by pounding’ the liver in a mortar, with four ounces of lean ham, four otinces of tongue, two ounces of butter, and the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs. Season the mixture with a little salt and cayenne, and make it into balls. . Place a layer of chicken at the bottom of'a deep dish, and over this a layer of ham. Place the forcemeat balls amongst the pieces of meat. Strew over them some chopped mushrooms or truffles, pour in the gravy, and cover the dish with good: puff paste. The edges must have been previously lined. with puff, paste.. When the pie is about baked, cover it with paper to prevent its becoming too brown. Ssusage-meat may be substituted for the forcemeat, if preferred. A few. hard-boiled eggs are by many considered an improvement.. Time to bake, one and a or two hours. Probable cost, 7s. or 8s. Sufficient for six.or seven persons.. , Chicken, Potted.—Take the meat from a cold roast chicken, remove the gristle and skin, and weigh it after it is picked.’ To every pound of chicken-meat allow a quarter of-a pound, of ham, a quarter of a pound of butter, a tea-spoonful of salt, four grains of cayenne, one tea-spoonful of pounded mace, and a quarter of a small nutmeg. Pound these thoroughly in | amortar. Press the paste into small jars, and cover it with clarified butter about a quarter . of an inch in thickness. Keep it in a dry place, Time, about half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 10d., exclusive of the. cold. chicken. A little of it,should be spread on bread and butter for each person. ... - : ‘Chicken Rissoles.—Pick the flésh from. a cold chicken; ‘mince it finely, and to: every. quarter of a pounil! ofi meat put one ounce of | lean ‘ham, one ounce of: finely-grated ‘bread-'' crumbs, a small onion, boiled and chopped,,a piece of clarified butter about the size of walnut, half a salt-spoonful of salt, half fiat, quantity of pepper, and two or three grates of a nutmeg. Mix these thoroughly, then moisten, the mixture with a little stiff white: sauce. . If this is not at hand, it may easily be made by boiling the trimmings of the chicken with suit- able seasonings and a little gelatine. Let the mixture get cold, and form it into balls. Make some good pastry, and roll it out thinly. Cover the balls with it, and fry them in hot fat till they are a light brown, drain them thoroughly from the fat, and serve them piled high on a napkin, © with fried parsley garnishing’ the dish. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d., exclu! sive of the cold chicken. Allow two for each person. os Chicken, Roast.—Young spring chickens should be very carefully prepared for roasting, as the flesh is so tender that it will easily tear. They require no stuffing. A little butter placed inside is an,.improvement. They should be firmly trussed like a fowl, slightly floured, put down to a clear fire, and basted constantly until ready. Bread sauce, mushroom, egg, or chestnut sauce may all be served with roast chicken, If the fire is too fierce a piece of oiled paper may be; fastened over the breast of the bird whilst itis down. Time to roast, half an hour... Probable cost, 2s..6d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. -Chicken, Roast. (another way.)—If£ it is wished to stuff the chicken, a forcemeat may be made by mincing the liver and an equal quantity of bacon together, then adding a small pinch of finely-minced lemon-rind, a table-spoonful of grated bread-crumbs, a des- sert-spoonful of chopped parsley, three or four | chives, cut small, and a little pepper. The chicken should, then be covered with ‘slices of’ bacon, with a piece of buttered paper fastened over them. _ If it is preferred, a couple of boned anchovies may be substituted for the lemon- rind in the stuffing. .Time to roast, half an hour. . Probable cost, 28. 6d. each. ~ Suffitiént~ for three persons. ‘ ; alee Chicken, Salad, Plain.—Take a well- boiled fowl, and cut it into neat, small pieces. Make a pickle of equal parts of oil, vinegar, with a little finely-minced onion, salt; and ‘pepper, arid let the pieces lie in this two or three hours, turning them occasionally that the chicken’ may become impregnated with the flavour of the pickle. Prepare’ some lettuce ; if it is'young, ‘the little heads may be cut into halves; if large, the hearts may be cut length- ways and divided’; but especial care should be taken in making salads that the lettuce is per- fectly dry. It is a good plan to wash it some hours before it is needed, and hang it in.a wire basket in an airy situation. If after this itis not quite free from moisture, two or three leaves; at. atime should be put into a clean dry towel, and shaken gently about. A salad is never properly made unless attention is paid to this point, as the dressing, instead of mixing with the salad, will, De all at'the bottom of the bowl. Make a:sauce, asin the following recipe. Arrange the chicken; iand salad:in the dish as.prettily as you can, and, CHI (182) CHI pour the sauce over them; garnish with thin slices of beetroot cut into shapes with an ordi- nary pastry cutter, hard-boiled eggs cut into slices or quarters, and a little green parsley between the pieces of egg. A chicken salad neatly and tastefully arranged has a good ap- pearance, and is generally a welcome dish. Time to boil the chicken, half an hour. Probable cost: chicken, 2s. 6d.; salad and dressing, ls. Sufficient for six persons. Chicken Salad, Rich.—Boil a large chicken until quite tender, and, when it is cold, pick off the meat in small pieces. Take as much celery as there is chicken, and cut it into pieces about an inch long, put it in a little water to make it crisp, then drain and dry it thoroughly, Put the yolk of one egg into a large basin, and beat well with a silver fork until it begins to feel thick. Add first a heaped tea-spoonful of mustard, and afterwards six tea- spoonfuls of oil, putting in the first two tea- spoonfuls by three drops at a time, and beating the sauce thoroughly between each addition. To every sixth tea-spoontul of oil put one tea-spoon-~ ful of lemon-juice, and repeat until half a pint of oil and the juice of a large lemon have been used. Flavour with three pinches of salt and two of red pepper, and, last of all, putin a table-spoon- ful of cream. The sauce should be thick, and highly flavoured. Mix the chicken with the celery, pour half the dressing into the salad and the rest on the top, and garnish according to taste. Time, half an hour to boil the chicken. Probable cost: chicken, 2s. 6d.; celery, 3d. per head. Sufficient for six persons. Chicken, Sauce for.—Take the livers of the fowls you are using, and boil them with a bunch ofthyme and parsley ; drain them, and pound them in a mortar with two boned anchovies, a little pepper and salt, and the finely-grated rind of half a lemon; add the white of one egg, and the hard-boiled yolks of two. Squeeze the juice of half a lemon over the mixture, and put it into a saucepan with a pint of good melted better. Stir the sauce constantly until it is thick enough., Time, altogether, about half an hour. Sufficient for a couple of boiled chickens. Probable cost, 6d. Chicken, Sauce for Roast. — Roast chickens are generally served with brown sauce, and bread sauce ina separate tureen. If no gravy is at hand, of which brown sauce can be made, a few slices of liver may be fried with a little bacon until nicely browned, boiling water poured upon them, and strained. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Chicken, Scalloped.—Take the remains of a cold chicken, free it from skin and gristle, and mince it finely. Place the mince in a saucepan, and moisten it with some white sauce, or, failing that, some white stock mixed with a little cream, and thickened with flour. Season with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Let the mixture boil, stirring it all the time. Butter the scallop shells, strew some bread- crumbs over them, fill them with the mixture, and strew more bread-crumbs over the top. Sprinkle some clarified butter over them, and bake in a hot oven, and serve with pickles or cucumber. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold chicken. Allow two for each person. Chicken Soup, Delicate.—Pluck and wash thoroughly three young chickens, and put them in a stewpan with five pints of good, white, nicely-flavoured stock, thoroughly freed from fat and cleared from sediment. A sliced turnip and carrot may be put with them, and removed. before the soup is thickened. Let them simmer gently for nearly an hour. Remove all the white flesh, and return the rest of the birds to the soup, and simmer once more for a couple of hours. Pour a little of the boiling liquid over a quarter of a pound of the crumb of bread, and when it is well soaked, drain it, put it ina mortar with the flesh which has been taken'from the bones, and pound it to a smooth paste, adding, by degrees, the liquid. Flavour with salt, cayenne, and a very little pounded mace, press the mixture through a sieve, and boil once more, adding one pint of boiling cream. If the soup should not be sufficiently thick, a table- spoonful of arrowroot which has been mixed may be added very smoothly with a little cold milk. Probable cost, chickens, 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Chicken, To Pull.—Take a cold roasted chicken, cut off the legs, sidesmen, and back, season these with pepper and salt, and dip them in beaten egg and bread-crumbs. Take off the skin from the breast and wings, and pull the flesh off in thin flakes; have ready some good white sauce, nicely flavoured, and put it in a saucepan with the white meat, shaking the saucepan. Broil the legs, &c. Pour the mince into the middle of a hot dish; place the back upon it, and the legs and pinions round. Just before serving, squeeze over the dish the juice of a lemon. Time, half an hour. Pro- bable cost, chicken, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for three persons. Chicken, White Sauce for Boiled. —Dissolve an ounce of butter in a small sauce- pan, and mix smoothly with it three-quarters of an ounce of flour. Stir in half a pint of white stock, or water, and add a small carrot, three button mushrooms, and an ounce of lean ham. Stir the sauce till it boils, draw it back and let it simmer for twenty minutes. Skim and strain it, then boil it again, and put a cea of a pint of cream with it. Sufficient or two small chickens. Chicken and Ham Sandwiches.— Put a breakfast-cupful of good gravy into a saucepan, with three dessert-spoonfuls of curry paste mixed smoothly in it. Add half a pound of the flesh of a cold chicken, and two ounces of lean ham finely minced. Let the ingredients boil for ten minutes, then turn them out. Cut some slices of stale bread about the eighth of an inch in thickness, and stamp them out in shapes. Fry them in a little butter, spread some of the mixture between two of them, and put over it a little slice of cheese, and a piece of butter. Press it well down, bake the sandwiches in a quick oven, on a baking sheet, and serve them as hot as possible, piled high on a napkin. Time, five (minutes to bake. Allow two or CHI ( 188 ) CHI three for each person. Probable cost, 8d., ex- clusive of the cold meat. Chicken and Ham, To Pot.—Pound separately the white meat of a cold fowl, and an equal weight of ham, beef, or tongue. Season the fowl with salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and the other meat with pepper only. Put layers of each into a jar, place a slice of butter on the top, and bake for an hour and a half. Let them get cold, then pour some clari- fied butter on the top rather thickly. A little may be eaten with bread and butter for break- fast or luncheon. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Chicken, and Macaroni.— Boil a chicken in the usual manner. Take half a pound of pipe macaroni, and boil it in water with a lump of butter in it. When it has boiled a quarter of an hour, drain it, and sub- stitute milk for the water, with a large onion stuck with cloves, and a little salt and pepper. Boil until the macaroni is tender but unbroken, then grate over it # quarter of a pound of Parme- san cheese. ‘Lay the chicken, which ought to be just cooked, on a dish, put the macaroni and cheese over it, and serve as hot as possible. Time to boil the macaroni the second time, half an hour; to boil the chicken, half an hour. Sufficient for four persons. Probable cost, chicken, 2s. 6d. Chicken and Macaroni Pudding.— Boil three ounces of pipe macaroni in some nicely-flavoured stock till it is tender but un- broken. Prepare the meat as in the next recipe, allowing six ounces of ham and six ounces of chicken to three ounces of macaroni. Mix them well together, and add a well-beaten egg, and a piece of butter about the size of an egg. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, tie it in a cloth, boil or steam it, and when ready serve it as hot as possible. Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for four persons. Chicken and Rice Pudding.—Cut the meat from the remains of a cold fowl, and take half its weight in ham. Free it from skin and gristle, and pound it in » mortar, with a little salt, white pepper, and pounded mace. To one pound of fowl, and half a pound of ham, allow a cupful of rice. Boil this in some nicely- flavoured stock till it is sufficiently cooked, then drain it, and add to it a cupful of new milk and the pounded meat. Stir these well together. Put the mixtnre into a buttered mould, dredge a little flour over the top, tie it in a floured cloth, and boil it for an hour, taking care that the water in the saucepan does not reach as high as the top of the mould. Serve with mushroom or oyster sauce. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for six persons. Chicken and Sweetbread Pie.—Line a deep pie-dish with a good crust, and spread a layer of forcemeat on it. Put over this alter- nate layers of chicken cut into neat joints, and sweetbread cut into small pieces, both seasoned with salt and cayenne; sprinkle over each layer . & few mushrooms or truffles . chopped small. ‘When the dish is nearly full, put some slices of hard-boiled egg over the top, pour a little over the meat, cover the Tush with fia maa crust that it was lined with, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake it in a‘good oven. Just before serving, make a hole in the top and pour in some good gravy. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, chickens, 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient, a pie made with two chickens for six persons. Chicken and Tongue with Cauli- flowers (a handsome supper dish)—Boil a tongue and two chickens according to the direc- tions given for both. Brush the tongue over with glaze, place it in the middle of a large dish, and put a chicken on each side of it. Cover the birds with white sauce, and garnish the dish with small cauliflowers or brussels: sprouts. Serve hot. If preferred, celery may - be boiled, and substituted for the cauliflowers,, or the chickens and tongue may be served cold, and the dish garnished with cut lemon and parsley. Time, half an hour for the chickens, two hours for the tongue, twenty minutes for the cauliflowers. Sufficient, two chickens anda tongue forsix persons. Probable cost: chickens, about 5s. per pair; tongue, 48.; cauliflowers, 2d. each. Children’s Cake (suitable for sending to children at school).—Mix thoroughly one pound of flour, two heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking- powder, and a pinch of salt. Rub well in a quarter of a pound of butter or good beef drip- ping, and add a quarter of a pound of cyrrants, a quarter of a pound of chopped raisins, a quarter of a pound of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and two ounces of candied peel chopped small. Mix with water to a stiff paste, and bake it in a moderate oven. If preferred, caraway seeds. may be substituted for the currants and raisins. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost, Is. Sufficient for a moderate-sized cake. Chili Vinegar.—Cut 100 small, fresh, red’. chilies into halves, and infuse them for a. fortnight in a quart of best pickling vinegar... Strain the liquid and put it into small bottles. The flavour of the chilies will not be entirely’ extracted, so the bottle may be replenished with. rather less vinegar than before. It is a con-- venience to have this vinegar at hand to flavour sauces, and to serve with fish, which many persons cannot eat without the addition of an acid and cayenne. Half an ounce of cayenne- will answer the same purpose as the chilies, if it can be procured genuine. The vinegar will keep a long time if closely corked. Sufficient, for one quart of vinegar. Probable cost of chilies,, 2s. per hundred. : China Chilo.—Mince finely as much of the undressed lean part of the neck, leg, or loin of mutton as will fill a pint basin, adding a. little of the fat, also minced, if this is liked. Put three ounces of butter into a saucepan, with two small onions chopped small, two or three young lettuces finely shred, a tea-spoonful of salt, a quarter as much cayenne pepper, a pint of young green peas, and a small bunch of parsley. Stir the ingredients over a gentle fire until the onions are soft, then add_ the _minced meat, and half a pint of good stock or ‘ CHI , -( 184’) CHO ‘water. '' Stir constantly until the mixture is quite hot, then cover thé saucepan closely, and simmer it very gently for two hours. Serve’ it in'a hot: dish, with a border of rice round it. A cupful of chopped, mushrooms will be ‘an improvement. Probable cost, 3s.' Sufficient for half a dozen persons. a hos Ching-Ching (an American drink).— Put three ounces of peppermint, three or four drops of the, essence of cloves, a sliced orange, a déssert-spoonful of sifted loaf sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of pounded’ ice into a large tumbler. Mix with it a quarter of a pint of rum, stir the mixture for a minute or two, and, drink it ‘through a straw. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the rum. Sufficient for a large tumblerful. = : ane Chipolata Garnish.—Take equal quan- tities of carrots, turnips, chestnuts, mushrooms,, pieces of bacon, and small sausages, as many a3 may be required for the dish they. are to gar- nish. Shape all these ingredients into neat pieces of a small size. Roast and ‘peel the chestnuts, and boil the other ingredients sepa- rately. When they are ready drain them ‘and put them into a saucepan, cover them with good brown sauce, nicely seasoned, and add a glass of sherry; let’ them boil, then use thé ragoit for garnishing dishes of game, poultry,:'and cutlets. The carrots and turnips in this ragott may be shaped like peas or’ dice, or, if liked, they may be peeled in ribbons, then cut into thin shreds. , Chives, Butter.—Boil half a pound of butter, remove the scum as it rises, and let it boilfor afew minutes. Squeeze into it the juice of a large lemon, and add a tea-spoonful of finely-minced chives. A small onion chopped, and a tea-spoonful of chopped, parsley will do nearly as well. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for half a pound of butter. ~~ ae Chocolate. — Chocolate, when obtained genuine, is made from the berry of the cacao tree, mixed with a little cinnamon, vanilla, and sugar. It is'a most agreeable and nutritious beverage. It is much used in Spain. That which is sold in England is too often a mixture of flour and treacle, with a very small quantity | of the real article mixed in it. Scrape as'much chocolate,as may be required itito equal quanti- ‘ties of hot mite and water. Stir it until it is dissolved, then put it in the saucepan, and make it quite hot, stirring it all the time. It must not boil up, or it will be oily. Sweeten and serve. The quantity to be used depends on the strength wanted. I chocolate may be used for one'pint of milk and water. Where 'chocolate is regularly used, it is | much better to have a proper chocolate mill, ‘so that it may be served hot and frothy. Time, ‘fen minutes. Probable cost, from 1s. to 1s. 6d. per pound. Cheap chocolate should be avoided. Allow one ounce for éach person. Chocolate Biscuits.—Mix a quarter of -a,pound of fi -quarter of a pound of finely-sifted sugar, ahd -moisten the mixture with sufficient beaten white -of egg to make a softish pasté. Mould this into samall biscuits with a tea-spoon, and place these “Generally speaking, one ounce of | ~on a sheet’ of paper, leaving a little distance between the biscuits. -Bake them in a moderate oven, and, when sufficiently cooked, turn, the sheets over so that the biscuits may rest on the _table,, and brush the paper underneath ‘the ‘biscuits with a little water to,.loosen them. The addition of six ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded, will convert these into chocolate macaroons. Time,to bake, twenty | minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per pound. Sufficient, for a moderate-sized dish.. nae . Chocolate Canellons.—Mix two ounces -of grated chocolate with four ounces of finely- sifted sugar and a dessert-spoonful of flour, and . add the beaten white of an egg to make a paste. Take pieces about the size of a walnut, and roll them out very thinly, place them on a buttered tin, and bake them in a moderate oven for ten or fifteen minutes. While they are warm, turn them over a ruler to shape them, and slip them ‘onasieve to dry. Probable cost, 5d. for this quantity. “Sufficient for a small dessert-dish. Chocolate Cream. — Grate. one. ounce of the best chocolate and two ounces of sugar into ' a pint of thick cream ; boil it, stirring it all the time, until quite.smooth, then add, when.cool, the whites of four eggs beaten to a solid froth. Half ‘fill the glasses; and whip the- remainder into a froth to put atthe top. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s., allowing 1s. 6d. per. pint for the cream. Sufficient for a pint and a half of cream. Chocolate Custard.—Pour half a cupful of boiling water over one ounce of the best choco- late finely grated, let it stand by the fire till it is dissolved ; stir it gradually into a pint of milk or cream, and add, two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar and the yolks of four eggs well beaten. Put the custard into a saucepan, and beat.it to a froth until it thickens. It may be put into cups.and baked in a good oven. It is more generally served as itis. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d., if made with milk. , Suffi- cient for a pint and a half, Chocolate Drops.—Dissolve four ounces of the best French chocolate ‘in a little ‘boiling water, and add to it half a pound of sifted sugar, stir the mixture on the fire till, it is smooth and quite hot., Place it in drops about the size of a sixpence on sheets of writing paper, and leave them until cold. If it is wished, the drops may be shaken (while still. soft) in a paper with some. nonpareil comfits, They should be kept in layers between sheets of paper... Time, about half an hour. . Probable cost, 7d. for this quantity. ? Chocolate Ice Cream.—Dissolve half a pound of the best French chocolate in a break- fast-cupful of boiling water, add a pint and a half of cream and half a pound of sugar boiled to a syrup ; strain through silk and put into the ice pail, Freeze inthe usual way. When frozen, add three gills, of double cream, work till - smooth, and close the pot till the ice is wanted. finely-grated “chocolaté with' a | Chocolate Mill.—The chocolate mill is used to give the fine frothy appearance to the ‘chocolate which is generally so much liked, and | which cannot be so effectually produced without ‘it, though brisk stirring over’ the ‘fire will goa CHO (:135 ) CHO great-way to secure it. In using this article, mix the chocolate smoothly with the water or milk, and | ae it into the pot; put on the lid with the handle of the mill coming through it, and then (\ CHOCOLATE MILL. warm the chocolate gently, rubbing the handle briskly between the palms of the hands all the' time the chocolate is on the fire. The prepara-' tion must not be allowed to boil, or it will be oily. When the lid is taken off, the chocolate will be found to be in a fine state of froth.. Probable cost, 5s. Chocolate Pudding.—Put an ounce of: best chocolate grated, and as much powdered cinnamon as would stand on a threepenny piece’ into two table-spoonfuls of boiling water. Let. the mixture stand by the side of the fire until dissolved, then mix with it a pint of,/boiling milk, and add four large lumps of sugar, and when it is cold, four eggs well beaten. Pour the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and either steam or bake it for half an hour. It is more suitable to eat hot when steamed, and cold when baked. A little sifted sugar may be eaten with the pudding cold, and arrowroot sauce served with it hot. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. . a Chocolate Tarts.—Grate two ounces of the best French chocolate, and mix with it a pinch of powdered cinnamon, a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped lemon-rind, a dessert-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a heaped tea-spoonful of ground rice. Mix a pint of cream or new milk with four well-beaten eggs, and add'the custard gradually and smoothly to the chocolate powder. Stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes, but be careful that the cream does not curdle. Line ‘the inside of a tart-dish with good puff paste. Pour the cream, when cool, into it, and bake the tart in a moderate oven. Time.to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, 10d. made with milk, 2g. made with cream. Sufficient for five or six ' persons. ‘ Chops, Broiled.—Mutton is the meat: f chops, though lamb and pork also furnish ex- cellent ones. A variety of dishes may bemade from them, and they may be served with. all sorts of sauces and vegetables. They are often cut from the best end of the neck, and the fillet of the leg, but are best when taken from ‘the middle of the loin. They should be cut not less than half an inch thick, and xiot over fat; if taken from the neck, the bones should be shortened. | To broil chops trim them neatly, remove nearly all the fat, which may be rendered and made into good dripping,'and pepper them slightly. Have a clear fire made of cmders. Make the gridiron hot, and rub it well with mutton, suet. Put the chops: upon it and place it slanting to prevent the fat dropping on the fire, and causing asmoke. Ifa blaze should arise, remove the gridiron for a moment, and strew a handful of salt over the fire. Turn the chops often till they are done, which -will bein about eight minutes. Place them on a hot dish with a'piece of: butter about the size: of 4 nut tnder each and send mushroom ketchup to table with them. French cooks pepper and: salt them, and brush some , clarified butter over them before broiling, and this tends to keep in the juices. If it can be done, they are better sent to table one at a time, as they are broiled. ‘Probable cost, 1s. 1d. per pound. Chops, Broiled (A la Maintenon).— Cut and trim the chops as before. Beat the yolk of an egg, and mix with it a tea-spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of parsley, half a tea-spoonful of thyme, and a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Cover the chops with this, then wrap each one in a piece of well-buttered writing paper, and broil them as in the last recipe, turning them often. Serve -with some good brown gravy. Time, about ten minutes. Allow one chop foreach person. Probable cost; 1s. 1d. perpound.' "°° | Chops, Fried.—Prepare the chops as be- fore. Brush each chop with beaten egg, and cover them with finely-grated bread-crumbs. ‘Put a good slice of butter into the frying-pan, and when it is melted, place them in it. Turh them two or three timés, and when they are nearly ready, sprinkle salt and pepper over them. Fry them over a clear fire not less than ten or more than fifteen minutes... When they are taken up lay them for a moment or two on blotting. paper, to absorb the fat. Make some good melted butter, and stir into it, when boiling,| two table-spoonfuls of finely-minced pickled gherking. Probable cost, 1s. 1d- per pound. ‘One chop will be sufficient for each person. ' Chops, Stewed with Onion.—Take half a dozen nice loin chops, trim them) neatly, remove néarly all the fat, and‘ broil them for two minutes on each side, then place them in clean blotting paper. Cut’ two large Spanish onions into slices, and put them into a stewpan with half a tea-spoonful of salt, ard four ounces of fresh butter. Place the chops upon ‘them, and cover the saucepan closely, and stew all gently till the onions are reduced’ to pulp. Before dishing, pour a tea-spoonful of ‘chili ‘vinegar upon the dish. Steak may be cooked in this way as well as chops. Time to“broil the chop, four minutes; to stew them with the onions until the latter ‘are reduced to pulp, about half an hour. Probable’ cost, 1s. 1d. per pound. Allow one chop for each person. Choux:—-Put four, ounces, of butter inte half a pint of hoiling water, with two table- spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, and asalt-spoon- ful of minced lemon-rind. Let the butter melt, CHO ( 136 ) CHR then add, gradually, five ounces of fine flour. Stir the paste quickly till it leaves the sides of the saucepan. Draw it back, and let it cool, then stir four eggs into it, one at a time, with a pinch of salt, and a table-spoonful of orange- flower water. Beat it well until the paste is quite firm and smooth. Make the paste into small balls about the size of a walnut, put them on a floured tin, and bake in a slow and steady oven. Dry them before the fire, and make a little slit in the side to put jaminto. This pastry may be made into any shape, and it swells very much in baking. Time to bake the choux, about one hour. They should be quite crisp and hard when served. Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Choux (another way).—Make the pastry as in the last recipe. When the little balls are baked, cut a small round piece off the end of each, scoop out a little of the inside, and fill the cavity with some iced coffee. Replace the piece which was cut off, and dry as before. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Chowder (an American dish).—Fry a quarter of a pound of pickled pork, which has been cut into dice, and a small minced onion, in hot butter or lard, till they are u deep brown. Put half of this at the bottom of a saucepan, place over it a soup-plateful of mashed po- tatoes, and over that some thick slices of un- cooked sea bass or turbot, about four pounds in weight, the remainder of the pork and onions, and on the top, a second layer of potatoes. Season with half a nutmeg grated, a tea- spoonful of powdered mace, five or six cloves, a table-spoonful of savoury herbs—of which one-third should be thyme, one-third parsley, and one-third marjoram—a tea-spoonful of salt, and four or five white peppercorns. Pour over all half a bottle of claret, half a-bottle of ketchup, and sufficient water to cover it. Let it simmer gently until the fish is cooked. Pro- bable cost, pork, 11d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Christmas Bun, Scottish.—Put one tea-spoonful of salt into two pounds of flour, and rub into it three-quarters of a pound of butter; add a little warm water and two table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast, and knead it into a light paste. Put aside about one-third of this paste, and work into the rest one pound and a half of currants, stoned and dried, two pounds of stoned raisins, four ounces of blanched almonds chopped small, half a pound of candied lemon, citron, and orange together, all finely minced, and a quarter of an ounce each of white pepper, ground ginger, and powdered cinnamon. When these are well worked in, shape them into a cylindrical form like a cheese. Roll out the paste which was set aside, and put it round the bun so as to make a sort of case for it. Wet the edges, and fasten them together to make them lie quite flat. Prick some holes in the top, and runa skewer from the top to the bottom in two or three places. Flour some thick paper and wrap the bun in it, binding it well with tape to keep it in shape. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, one hour and a half or more. Probable cost, 38. for this quantity. Christmas Cake.—Beat one pound. of butter into a cream, and mix with it three: eggs well beaten, two pounds of flour, one pound of currants stoned and dried, one pound of sugar,, five small tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, and a quarter of a pint of milk. Put the mixture into a buttered dish, and bake it in a moderate oven. This is a very good cake if intended to be used soon, but it soon gets dry, and should. not be kept in a damp place. Time to bake, about two hours. Sufficient for a good-sized. cake. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Christmas Cake (another way).—Take five pounds of flour, mix with it a dessert- spoonful of salt, rub in three-quarters of a pound. of butter, and one pound of lard. Put in an ounce and a half of German yeast or half a pint of good fresh brewers’ yeast, and knead as for common bread. If there is any difficulty about the yeast, baking powder may be used, CHRISTMAS CAKE. allowing a heaped tea-spoonful of ordinary baking powder for every pound of material. If yeast is used, let the dough rise before adding the other ingredients. Mix in three poynds of currants, one pound and a half of moist sugar, a whole nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of candied lemon-peel finely minced, a table- spoonful of brandy, and four eggs well beaten. Butter the tins, and line them well with buttered paper. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about two hours. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. per cake. Sufficient for four cakes. Christmas Dish (suitable for supper or luncheon at any time).—Take one pound of Swiss roll or sponge biscuit and half a pound of macaroons. Cut the roll into slices, and place these and the macaroons lightly at the bottom of a deep dish. Put half a pint of red currant jelly, half a pint of sherry, half a pint of raisin wine, and two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar into a saucepan, and, when boil- ing, pour it over the biscuits. Let it soak for some time, then pour over it a thick custard. Ornament with almonds, blanched and quartered, stuck thickly into the custard. This dish is also very good without the custard. Time to soak, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 38., exclusive of the wine. CHR ( 187 ) CHR Christmas Plum Pudding.—The plum pudding is a national dish, and is despised by foreign nations because they never can make it fit to eat. In almost every family there is a recipe for it, which has been handed down from mother to daughter through two or three generations, and which never has been and never will be equalled, much less surpassed, by any other. ‘Three or four recipes are here given, every one of which has been proved and approved. Every in- gredient composing these puddings should be fresh and good, as one bad article, and espe- cially one bad egg, will spoil the whole. The puddings are, we think, better when boiled in moulds, which should be well buttered before the mixture is put in, should be quite full, and should be covered with one or two folds of paper floured and buttered, and then with a floured pudding-cloth. When bread is used, which makes a pudding lighter than flour, a little room should be allowed for swel- ling. A pinch of salt should always be remem- bered, as it brings out the flavour of the other ingredients. After it is tied in the cloth the pudding should be put into boiling water, and kept boiling until it is ‘taken off, when it should be plunged quickly into a basin of cold water; by this means it will be less likely to break when turned out of . the mould. It is usual, before sending it to table, to make a little hole in the top and fill it with brandy, then light it, and serve it in a blaze. In olden time a sprig of arbutus, with a red berry on it, was stuck in the middle, and a twig of variegated holly, with berries, placed on each side. This was done to keep away witches. It is a good plan to mix much more than is needed, and to make several puddings instead of one, boil all together, and warm one up when necessary. If well made, Christmas plum pudding will be good for twelve months. It should be boiled for eight or nine hours some days before it is wanted; and when it is to be used, plunged again into boiling water, and boiled for at least two hours. Christmas Plum Pudding.—Take one and a half pounds of bread-crumbs, half a pound of flour, two pounds of finely-shred beef suet, two pounds of stoned raisins, two pounds of currants, washed, picked, and dried, two pounds of sugar, a quarter of a pound of candied lemon and citron-peel, thatis, two ounces of each, two small nutmegs grated, the juice of a lemon, and the rind finely chopped, a tea- spoonful of salt, two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and sliced, sixteen eggs, a glass of brandy, and as much milk as will wet it, but no more than that, as it makes the pudding heavy. It should be as stiff as paste. Mix all the dry ingredients thoroughly, then add the eges and milk, and, last of all, the brandy. Boil it, and keep boiling for ten hours. Sufii- cient for a large family pudding (big enough tor fourteen or sixteen persons) or four or five small ones. Probable cost, 6s. 6d. Christmas Plum Pudding (another way).—Shred finely half a pound of beef suet ‘with a little flour to prevent it sticking, add a pinch of salt, « quarter of a pound of stoned raisins, a quarter of a pound of sultanas, half a pound of currants, half a pound of bread- crumbs, two ounces of flour, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, six sweet and six bitter almonds, blanched and shred finely, half « nutmeg grated, two ounces of candied lemon and citron, and the rind of half a lemon finely chopped. Mix thoroughly, then add four well-beaten eggs and a wine-glassful of brandy. Let these stand for five or six hours, then add a cupful of milk, and boil for three hours. Pro- bable cost, 1s. 8d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. Christmas Plum Pudding (for children). — Shred finely three-quarters of a pound of beef suet, and add to it a pinch of salt, one pound and a half of bread- crumbs, half a pound of flour, three-quarters of CHRISTMAS PUDDING. a pound of muscatel raisins (these can be pur- chased loose, not in bunches; they are then almost as cheap as the ordinary pudding- raisins, and the flavour is very superior), three- quarters of a pound of currants, picked and dried, two ounces of candied lemon and citron together, and half a large nutmeg. Mix these thoroughly, then add four eggs and milk enough to moisten it, but not too much, or the pudding will be heavy. Tie itin a pudding- cloth well floured, and boil for five or six hours. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for eight or tem children. Christmas Pudding, Economical and Good.—Shred very finely a quarter of a pound of beef-suet, add a quarter of a pound of flour and a quarter of a pound of finely- grated bread-crumbs, six ounces of currants, picked and dried, six ounces of stoned raisins, two table-spoonfuls of brown sugar, a quarter: of a pound of mashed carrot and the’ same of mashed potatoes, one ounce of chopped candied lemon and one ounce of fresh lemon-rind,, salt to taste, and a table-spoonful of treacle. Mix these ingredients well together, tie loosely in a floured cloth, boil for four hours, and! serve with brandy sauce. If possible, let this: pudding be made a few hours before it is wanted. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Christmas Pudding, Teetotaller’s Small.—Take one pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, pour over them a cupful of new milk, and let them soak until the milk is CHR ( 188 ) CIN quite absorbed, then add a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, half a’ pound of finely-shred beef suet, half a pound of muscatel raisins, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, and half of the thin rind of a lemon chopped small. Mix all well together, then add four well-beaten eggs, and boil at least five hours. Serve with good melted butter, mixed with a little sugar, and, if liked, the juice of a lemon. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. *' Christopher WNorth’s Sauce for Meat or Gravy.—Put a dessert-spoon- ful of sifted loaf sugar, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a heaped salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper into a jar. Mix them thoroughly, then add to them very gradually two table-spoonfuls of Harvey’s sauce, a dessert-spoonful of mush- room ketchup, a table-spoonful of fresh lemon- juice strained, and a glass of port. Place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it remain until quite hot, but do not let it boil. If bottled when it is made, it will keep good for several days. It may be used. for ducks, geese, pork, or any broil. If the: flavour of cayenne is liked, the quantities may be doubled. The sauce should be made the,night before it is’ used. Time to, heat, about a‘quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 64., for this quantity. Sufficient: for a quarter of a pint of sauce. Cider Cup.—Put a slice of crumb’ of bread toasted at the bottom of a large jug; grate half a small nutmeg over it, and place on it two or three slices of thin lemon-rind and half a dozen lumps of sugar. . Pour over it two wine-glassfuls of sherry, one of brandy, the juice of a lemon, a bottle of soda-water, and, last of all, a quart of cider. Mix well, put a sprig of borage or balm into it, and add afew lumps of pure ice. This should be used as soon as it is made. Time to make, ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the brandy, sherry, and cider.. Sufficient for a two- quart cup. ‘ Cider Vinegar.—Put half a pound of sugar into a half gallon jar. Fill it with cider. Shake it well, and let it ferment for three or four months; the result will be two quarts of good, nicely-flavoured vinegar. Probable cost, 5d. per pint. Ue Cinnamon Biscuits.—Whisk six eggs with half a pound of sifted sugar, a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon, and a wine- glassful of rose or orange-flower water. Add. about half a pound of flour,\to form a paste.’ Roll this out thin, cut it into little cakes in fancy shapes, and bake them on a buttered tin in’ a moderate oven. Bake them for about twenty minutes,’ when they ‘will be lightly browned. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for an ordinary’ dessert-dish. ; Cinnamon Cake.—Beat the whites of six eggs to a firm froth, and stirin half a pound of finely-sifted sugar, eight ounces of fine flour, and half a pound of good butter, oiled but not hot.'' Mix these lightly together, then ‘add powdered cinnamon ‘énough to colour the cake slightly. Pour the mixture into a well-but- tered mould, and bake it in'a good oven. » Time to bake, forty minutes. Probable cost, 18. 6d. Sufficient for one moderate-sized cake. Cinnamon Cake (another way).—Mix thoroughly half a pound of powdered sugar, half a pound of fine Hour, half a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of an ounce of powdered 'cin- namon, the grated peel of a quarter of a small lemon, and the whites of eight eggs beaten to a solid froth. If preferred, a glass of brandy or rum may be added. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, and bake it in a good oven. Two eggs and a cupful of sour cream may be used instead of eight eggs, and the mixture may be spread on a flat, well-buttered’ tin, instead of heing put into.a mould. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s, 10d. Suffi- cient for a quart mould. cs Cinnamon Cordial.—Pour three penny- worth of oil of cinnamon upon eight or nine large lumps of sugar,.and put them into a large bottle with a quart of spirits and half a pound of sugar boiled to a syrup, with--a cupful of water. Shake all well together, and let the bottle remain in a cool place for a: few days; then strain or filter the liquid until it becomes bright and clear. Bottle for use. Time to infuse, a week. Probable -cost, uncertain, de- pending on the spirits. Sufficient for one quart of cordial. _-Cinnamon Drops.—Mix half an ounce of powdered cinnamon, or half a tea-spoonful of oil of cinnamon, with a pound of pounded sugar and half a pint of water; boil the syrup to a candy height or until it snaps when put into cold water; then spread it on a large flat dish, well oiled, and score it, before it hardens, into small squares, or drop it evenly on paper. Time to boil, about a quarter of an hour. Pro- bable cost, 8d. ee TE Cinnamon, Essence of.—Put two ‘drachms of oil of cinnamon into four ounces of strong spirit. Bottle for use. Sufficient, two or three drops will flavour half a pint of sauce or liquid. % Cinnamon Ice Cream.—Mix half an ounce of powdered cinnamon with half a, pound of sifted sugar, the yolks of two eggs, and half a pint. of new milk; boil’ the custard over a ‘slow fire, stirring it all the time until it thickens ; then add one pint of thick cream’ and the juice of a small lemon.’ Pour into a mould and freeze.’ Time to prepare twenty minutes. Probable cost, '2s. 2d. Sufficient for’ a, quart of ice cream. fs Cinnamon Sauce.—Boil a stick of cin- namon, which has been broken into a dozen ‘pieces, in half a pint of water for half an hour; add two glassfuls of sherry, two bay- leaves, and two table-spoonfuls of pounded. sugar. Simmer gently for ten minutes, strain, and serve. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 3d.. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Cinnamon Tablet.—This is made in | the same way as cinnamon'drops, but instead of being scored into small squares or formed into ‘drops; it is marked into squares of about:one ‘inch and avhalf. CIN ( 189") CLA Cinnamon, Tincture of.—Put' three ounces of bruised cinnamon into a bottle. of the best French brandy.’ It will be ready for use in a week. The probable cost will depend upon'the quality of the brandy. Sufficient, two tea-spoonfuls may be put into a little cold water, or one tea-spoonful ‘into a glass of wine. The latter, if beaten up with the yolk of an egg, and sweetened, is agreeable and restorative. of six eggs with half a pound of pounded,and sifted sugar, and ten ounces of fine flour; add half a pound of fresh butter beaten to a cream, four ounces of candied citron chopped small, a wine-glassful of brandy, and the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Mix thoroughly, our the mixture into a well-buttered mould, and bake it in a good oven. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, ls. 10d. Sufii- cient for a medium-sized mould. — Citron Pudding.—Mix two table-spoon- fuls of flour very smoothly with the beaten yolks of six eggs. Add very gradually one pint of new milk or cream, a quarter of.a pound of citron chopped small, and two table- spoonfuls of sugar. Mix thoroughly, pour the batter into well-buttered cups, and. bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes, or till set. Probable cost, if made with milk, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for six persons. Citron and Almond Pudding.—This pudding is made in the same way_as the pre- ceding one, with the addition of a dozen sweet almonds blanched and pounded. In both cases, if it is not wished to have a rich pudding, a smaller number of eggs may be used. Civet of Hare.—Cut the hare jinto neat amall pieces. Take about half a pound of streaky bacon, which has. been soaked in cold water a little while to make it firm, and divide it into small pieces. Fry these in a saucepan until lightly browned, add the pieces of hare, and when these also aze, brown,, strain the gravy which has come out, and thicken it with three ounces of flour. Moisten it with a couple of glasses of good stock and port, add a bunch of parsley, half'a pint of button onions, half a pint of small mushrooms, two cloves, a tea-spoonful of salt, a drachm of cayenne, and the juice of a Seville orange. - Bring the liquid to a boil, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently until the meat is sufficiently cooked. Reduce the sauce before serving, if necessary. A clove of ‘ garlic is often added to the dish. Time, if the “hare is young, two and a half to three hours; if old, a longer time should be allowed. Probable cost of the hare, 4s. to 6s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. aan Clams.—Clams are a kind of cockle, and are to be found on the west coast of Treland and Scotland, and in Devonshire, Cornwall, and some parts of Wales. Though they figure largely in American cookery, they are not much used in England; but persons living on the sea~shore might. make several by no means despicable dishes from them. Soyer says that “they “are much superior in’ flavour to the oyster, and, ‘if eaten raw, should be about the same size; but, if larger, should be made into “soup, or cooked in the same way as the oyster.” In America they are stewed. The clams are put into a stewpan, with a little water at the ‘bottom of the pan, then boiled for twenty-five or thirty minutes, the scum carefully removed, and the juice seasoned with pepper and salt. Clams may be fried in batter with egg and Citron Cake.—Mix the well-beaten yollis |, bread-crumbs. Clam Soup.—Wash as many clams as may be required, and put them into a saucepan with just sufficient boiling water to keep them from, burning. Boil.them for a few minutes, and when the shells open and the juice runs out, take the clams from the shells and chop them small. Strain the liquor, and stir into it the chopped clams ; season it with pepper, and thicken with it a little butter rolled in flour, and let it boil a quarter of an hour, Put little pieces of toasted bread in the tureen before pouring the soup into it. The flavour of the ‘Soup may be varied by the addition of onions or celery, or a little milk may be added, or the yolks of well-beaten eggs. Soup may. be made in the same way from whelks and cockles. Time, half an hour. Sufficient, a quart of soup |. for three, persons. Clarendon Pudding.—Pour a large breakfast-cupful of boiling milk upon three table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar and the thin rind | of alemon. Let it stand until it cools; then stir it gradually into four well-beaten eggs. Remove the crust from two French rolls, cut them into slices, and butter each slice thickly on both sides.. Butter a plain round mould, stick some rasins on the inside in lines, and fill the mould with layers of rolls, raisins, and custard. Soak for an hour, then cover the pudding with a floured cloth and boil or steam it. Time to boil or steam, one hour and a‘half. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Claret Cup.—Pour a bottle of claret into a large jug, and add two glasses of sherry, brandy, or any wine, spirit, or liquor that may be preferred, and half a glass of marischino. Put in the’ thin rind of a lemon and two table- spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Let it stand for half ‘an hour till the sugar ‘is dissolved, then put in a sprig of borage, balm, or verbena, or a little slicéd cucumber. Just before using, add a bottle of soda or seltzer water and a large piece of ice. Sliced nectarines, peaches, or rasp- berries may be used instead of lemon-rind. Claret, Mulled.—Put two drachms of cinnamon, two.drachms of ground. ginger, and two drachms of cloves into a saucepan with a breakfast-cupful of cold, water, six ounces of loaf sugar, and the thin rind of an orange. Boil all to a syrup, being careful that the scum is removed as it rises; then add two bottles of claret. Take the wine,from the fire just before it boils, and serve it at once. . Time, about half an hour. Probable cost, 4d., ex- clusive of the claret. ' Claret Puffs.—Mix a pint of claret with re one quantity of thick saith. Add three table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, or more if | liked, and let the mixture ‘stand some hours. CLA (140 ) CLI Whisk it to a froth, and as it rises take it off and putit ona sieve. When it has drained, heap it on a glass dish, and pour some thick cream round the puffs to float them. Time to stand before whisking, twelve hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the claret. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Claret Sauce. — Whisk two eggs thoroughly, and put with them a cupful of claret. Put the mixture into a saucepan with half a tea-spoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, a heaped table-spoonful of sugar, and a little ounded cinnamon. Whisk the sauce over the e till it is well frothed, and when it is on the point of boiling pour it over the pudding. Claret is an excellent wine for sauces, as it contains very little spirit and a great deal of flavour. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a small pudding. Clear Soup (excellent).—Take one quart of flavoured stock, made either from bones or fresh meat. Skim it, and pour it without sediment into a saucepan. Whilst it is cold, stir in half a pound of lean beef, without either fat or sinew, and cut very small; a carrot scraped to pulp; a turnip and a leek cut into dice. Keep stirring till the liquor is on the point of boiling, draw the saucepan back, skim, then simmer gently for twenty minutes. Strain slowly through a jelly-bag till clear. The soup will become cloudy if allowed to stand long before being used. If liked, it can be clarified with white of egg, as in the next recipe, but white of egg im- poverishes soup, while beef enriches it. Clear Soup (made from bones).—Take the bones of a piece of roast beef, which should weigh, before cooking, seven or eight pounds, or, if this is not at hand, one pound of fresh b6nes; break them into small pieces, and put them into a stewpan, with three quarts of cold water. Let the liquid boil, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for six hours. Very carefully remove the scum as it rises. Strain it, and leave it until the next day. Remove every particle of fat, and put it into the stewpan (being careful to leave any sediment at the bottom), with a large carrot cut in slices, a turnip, an onion, and half a drachm of bruised celery-seed tied in muslin. Let these simmer for another hour and a half; if the liquid is very much reduced, add a little cold water, so as to keep up the quantity to three pints. Season it while boiling with pepper, salt, and a small lump of sugar. Strain Jt again, and skim it carefully from time to time. In order to make it quite clear and bright, whisk the whites of two eggs with half a pint of cold water. Stir this briskly into the soup when it is just warm. Let it boil, and gently lift off the scum as it rises. Draw the stewpan back a little, and keep it boiling gently for half an hour. Let it stand to settle, and strain it through a jelly-bag two or three times if necessary. It ought to look like sherry. The white of one egg is required for a pint of soup. Add a tea-spoonful of Liebig’s extract, and a little browning, if the colour is too light, but care must be taken in browning it. This soup may be varied to any extent. Carrots, turnips, onions, celery, green peas, asparagus, vermicelli, or macaroni may be added, and the soup will then take the name of the vegetable which is put into it. Macaroni and vermicelli should be boiled separately, or they will spoil the clearness. Sufficient for three pints. Probable cost, exclusive of the bones, and for clear soup, 2d. per pint. Clear Soup (made from fresh meat).—Cut three pounds of the shin of beef, two pounds of veal, and two slices of ham into small pieces, and lay them at the bottom of a stewpan with a lump of butter; put the bones with the meat, and also a couple of large carrots and turnips sliced, half a drachm of bruised celery-seed tied in muslin, and an onion stuck with three cloves. Cover the saucepan, and set it on the fire. Let the meat brown on both sides, and when there is a brown glaze at the bottom of the pan, put a little hot water to it. Let it come just to the point of boiling, then add a little cold water. Skim it carefully, and, when nearly boiling, add more cold water; repeat this, and remove the scum till no more rises, and then add three quarts of water. Simmer gently by the side of the fire for four or five hours. Strain through a jelly-bag, but do not squeeze or press it at all, and let the liquid remain until the next day, when every particle of fat must be removed, and any sediment or impurities which may be at the bottom of the basin left untouched. When. it is to be used, warm it, and, if necessary, clarify it, but if the directions given have been attended to, namely, the meat boiled gently and without ceasing, the scum removed, the liquid gently strained, and the sediment left out, the soup Will be as clear as spring water, and of a bright golden colour. As was said in the last recipe this soup may be varied to any extent, (see Clear Soup, made from bones). Turned vege- tables are generally served in clear soups. For this purpose dried vegetables are to be recom- mended. (See Vegetables, Dried.) Season, while boiling, with pepper, salt, and a piece of sugar. Probable cost, 48. Sufficient for two quarts. Cleton Pudding.—Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan with the thin rind of half a lemon. Add, while cold, a quarter of a pound of ground rice, and stir the milk over the fire until it thickens; remove the lemon-rind, and. stir into the liquid « piece of butter about the size of an egg, then pour it into a bow! to cool. Whisk four eggs thoroughly, and add them to the pudding, together with two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, a wine-glassful of brandy, and twelve sweet almonds blanched and pounded. Butter a pie-dish rather thickly, pour the mixture in, and lay two or three thin slices of candied citron on the top of the pudding. Bake in a good oven for half an hour. Probable cost, 10d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. Clifton Puffs.—Mix together half a pound each of chopped apples, stoned raisins, picked currants, sifted sugar, and finely-chopped candied lemon. Adda quarter of a pound of CLO (141) coc _ sweet almonds blanched and pounded, half a * : putmeg grated, and a glass of sherry or brandy. When these are thoroughly mixed, put, them into a covered jar for two or three hours. Make some pastry with twelve ounces of baked flour, two ounces of ground rice, two ounces of sweet almonds blanched and pounded, and a table- spoonful of ‘sifted sugar. Mix these to a paste with half a pint of water, and the juice of a lemon. Lay it on the baking board, and put half a pound of butter in the middle, turn over the sides, and roll it out, not too thin, then fold it in three, and roll it again, twice repeating; place another half pound of butter on the pastry in little lumps, which must be sprinkled over with flour, the pastry folded in three, then rolled lengthways and sideways, the turning over and rolling to be repeated three times. Put it into a cool place between the rolls (see Puff Paste). When it is to be made up, roll it out to the thickness of a penny piece. Divide it into about two dozen squares, place a little of the mixture upon each square, and turn one corner over, wetting and pressing the edges to make them stick, so as to make a three- cornered tart. Place them ona well-buttered tin, and bake in a good hot oven. Before serving, they may have a little sugar icing placed on each puff, and be returned to the oven for a few minutes to dry. When the pastry is cooked the puffs are done. Sufficient for two dozen puffs. Probable cost, 2d. each. Clove Cordial.—Put two drachms of cassia buds, two drachms of bruised cloves, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a blade of mace into a bottle, and pour over them a little hot water. Let them remain near the fire, closely corked, for forty-eight hours, then strain the liquid into three pints of spirit, and add two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Two or three drops of prepared cochineal may be added to give the cordial a brighter colour. Probable cost, 3d. or 4d., exclusive of the spirit. Sufficient for two quarts. Cloves, Tincture of.—Put three ounces of bruised cloves into a quart of brandy, and lei them soak for a fortnight. Strain, and bottle it for use. Or, dissolve one ounce of fresh oil of cloves in one pint of rectified spirits of wine. The probable cost will depend on the strength and quality of the spirit. Two or three drops will be sufficient to flavour mulled wine, &c. Coblentz Pudding.—Nearly fill an or- dinary pie-dish with apples, pared, cored, and sliced. Spread a little finely-sifted sugar over them, and place five or six lumps of butter about the size of a nutamongst them. Cut the very thin rind of a lemon into narrow strips, and atrew these over the apples. If hard, add a little cold water and bake till soft. Pour a pint of boiling milk (in which a little lemon-rind has been soaked) over two table-spoonfuls of arrow- ” root, mixed with a little cold milk, stir it until smooth and thick, sweeten it, and when cool pour it over the apples, and bake it a nice brown. The appearance of this pudding will be improved if a little thick custard is laid upon it before it is sent to table. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Coburg Puddings.—Mix half a pound of tine flour very smoothly with a little water, and add gradually one pint of new milk, four ounces of butter, half a pound of currants, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, six well-beaten eggs, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, and a table- spoonful of brandy. Mix thoroughly, pour the mixture into some well-buttered cups, and bake ina good oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 10d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Cochineal Colouring. — Boil fifteen grains of powdered cochineal in half a pint of water; add a piece of alum about the size of a nut, and one drachm and a half of cream of tartar. Let the ingredients boil very slowly for half an hour; strain the liquid, and bottle it closely. Keep it ina cool place. It will keep better if three or four lumps of sugar are boiled with it. Sufficient for nearly half a pint. Cock-a-Leekie.—Boil a young fowl in two quarts of white stock until it is tender. Take it up and put it aside. Wash two bunches of fineleeks. Trim away the roots, and part of the heads, and cut them into one-inch lengths. Put them into the broth, and add half a pound of boiled rice, and a little pepper and salt. Boil half an hour. Cut the fowl into neat joints, put it into the soup, boil up, and serve very hot. The above is true Cock-a-Leekie Soup. The soup bearing this name is, however, as often served without the fowlas with it. Time, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 38. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Cockles, Boiled.—Cockles should be washed in two or three waters, and the shells well scrubbed with a hard brush, then put into salt and water, not over strong, to’ cleanse themselves. ‘They are best roasted on a tin laid on a stove, and eaten while hot, with bread and butter and # little pepper and vinegar. To boil them, put them in a clean saucepan, with a table-spoonful of water at the bottom of the pan, and a clean towel laid over them. Shake the saucepan constantly, to pre- vent them burning. As soon as the shells open they are cooked enough. They may be dressed in all the ways, excepting frying, practised with oysters and mussels. Time, five minutes. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient, allow one pint for each person. Cockle Sauce.—Prepare a gallon of cockles as for boiling (see the previous recipe). Set them on the fire, and when the shells open, strain the liquid from them, throw the shells away, and strain the liquid through muslin, to clear it from sand. Stir in a pint of good melted butter, and add a table-spoonful of vinegar, or the juice of a lemon, and half a tea-spoonful of white pepper. Stir the sauce over the fire for two or three minutes, but do not let it boil, and serve it with cod or had- dock. Time, about, twenty minutes altogether. Sufficient for four pounds of fish. Probable cost of cockles, 3d. per quart. . Cockles, Pickled.—Prepare the cockles as for sauce (see the previous recipe); strain coc the liquid through muslin, and put it into a saucepan with an equal quantity of vinegar, a blade of mace, and a wine-glasstul of sherry or brandy to every pint of liquid. Let this boil. Put the, cockles into bottles, cover them with the liquid, and cork them closely. Time to open the cockles, five minutes. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Cockles may be used to make fish-sauce when oysters are out of season. Cocoa,..—Mix two tea-spoonfuls of prepared cocoa with a little cold milk, beat it with the back of a spoon until quite smooth, then pour over it equal quantities of boiling milk and water sufficient to fill a breakfast-cup. Stir well together. into powder before it is used, then made as above. Time, five minutes. ‘Cocoa, Nibs.—Cocoa nibs, or shells, ate the coverings of the cocoakernel. They should be soaked in water for twelve hours, then boiled in the same water till it is reduced to half the quantity. When cool, the oily matter should ~ be'taken from the top, as it would be likely to disagree with an invalid. It is then served like chocolate. Time to boil,: five hours. A -quarter of a pound of nibs should be ‘boiled with three quarts of water. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. , Cocoa-nut Cake.—Mix one pound of sifted loaf-sugar with three-quarters of a pound ofthe white part of cocoa-nut grated. Beat the whites of six eggs to a firm froth, and mix all well together. Drop the mixture on paper in. rough knobs about the size of a walnut, and bake then in a slow. oven. . Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1s, 4d. per pound. Sufficient, one dozen and a-half for a dessert-dish. é Cocoa-nut .Candy.—Put one pound of the best loaf sugar, broken into. lumps, into a saucepan, and pour over it half a pint of spring water. Let it stand for a quarter of an hour, then place it on the fire and allow it to boil for five or six minutes. Remove the scum and boil the sugar until it is thick and white, then stir into it-a quarter of a pound of the white of a fresh. cocoa-nut finely grated, Stir it unceasingly until it rises in a mass in the pan, then spread itias.quickly as possible upon sheets of paper which have been dried before the fire. Re- move the paper before the candy is quite cold. : Let it dry, then store it in tin boxes. The grated cocoa-nut should be spread, out and allowed to dry for two or three days before it is used for candy. Cocoa-nut Cheesecakes.—Pare off the rind from a fresh cocoa-nut, grate the white part, and put it into a perfectly clean saucepan with its weight in sifted sugar and the milk, or, if this is not quite sweet, two or three spoonfuls of water. Let it simmer, stirring it gently until tender. When the mixture is cool, add the yolks of two eggs well. beaten and a spoonful of orange-flower water. Line some patty pans with good puff paste, and put a little of the mixture into each. Bake ina good oven. Sift a little sugar over the cheese- cakes before’ baking: them. Time to boil the (142 ) The rock cocoa must be scraped : coc cocoa-nut, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. Cocoa-nut Cream.—Put a cupful of cold spring water into a saucepan with the thin rind of a quarter of a small lemon, three table- spoonfuls of sifted sugar, a small piece of stick cinnamon, and a table-spoonful of the white of the cocoa-nut sliced. Boil gently to a thick syrup; then add the milk of two cocoa-nuts thickened with a table-spoonful of: corn-flour or arrowroot. ‘Let all boil up together for a minute or two, add a cupful of cream, strain, and stir until cold. Just before serving, put with the cream half a wine-glassful of brandy and three or four drops of vanilla essence. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, Is. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. This is a good sauce for a sweet pudding. Cocoa-nut Cream (another way).—Put one pound of finely-sifted sugar into a sauce- pan with three-quarters of a pint of water, and as soon as the sugar is dissolved, stir in the white part of a fresh cocoa-nut lightly grated and the thin rind of a small orange. Let the nut. stew until tender. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 10d. 5 Cocoa-nut Gingerbread.— Put one pound. of golden syrup, a quarter of a pound of butter, and a quarter of a pound, of moist sugar into a saucepan. Let them heat ve: slowly until the butter is quite melted, when it, must be well mixed with the syrup, and the mixture poured into a bowl containing half a pound of ground rice, half a pound of the best flour, one ounce of ground ginger, a pinch of salt, a dessert-spoonful of baking-powder, the rind of half a lemon cut into small pieces, and one ounce of chopped candied lemon. Mix thoroughly, put the paste on one side, and, when it. is quite cold, stir into it the white part of a large cocoa-nut finely grated. When it-is well beaten, drop the paste upon a well-buttered tin in small cakes, and bake these in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about half an hour. Pro-' bable cost, 1s: 3d,,per pound. Sufficient, eighteen or twenty cakes for a dessert-dish. * ; Cocoa-nut Macaroons.—Take a fresh cocoa-nut, grate’ it finely, and allow half a pound of finely-sifted sugar and the whites of four eggs beaten to a firm froth to: every quarter’ of a pound of cocoa-nut. Mix the ingredients thoroughly. Drop little balls of the paste upon a well-buttered tin about two inches apart from one another. . Bake in a moderate oven. When the macaroons are. | lightly browned all over they will be ready. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Pro- bable cost,.1s, 6d. per,pound. Sufficient, eighteen or twenty for a dessert-dish, =. Cocoa-nut Milk Flavour. — This exceedingly delicious flavouring is obtained ‘by boiling the grated white part of the nut with fresh sweet milk, and it may be used in the composition of' biscuits, cakes, custards, blanc- manges, &c.' To six ounces of the nut finely ‘grated add two quarts of milk. Simmer the liquid. slowly to extract the flavour without reducing the quantity of milk. Do not mix the milk from the nut until it has been tasted coc (148° )) coD and found pure and sweet. It should be strained through a fine sieve, and the nut squeezed dry. Cocoa-nut Paste.—Drain the milk from a large cocoa-nut, pare off the brown skin, and shred the white part as finely as possible; put a pound of sugar into a saucepan with a cupful of water, the shred cocoa-nut, and if it is per- fectly sweet, the milk of the cocoa-nut. Let the mixture boil gently until the syrup seems likely to return to sugar, when the whisked whites of two eggs may be added. Turn the paste on a dish and dry at the mouth of a slow oven. Cocoa-nut Pound-cake.—Beat half a pound of fresh butter to a cream, add gradually one pound of fine flour, one pound of sifted sugar, two tea-spoonfuls of baking-powder, a small pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of finely- chopped lemon-rind, the white part of a cocoa- nut finely-grated, four eggs well beaten, and a cupful of new milk. Butter some square tins, and line them with buttered paper, spread the mixture in them about an inch and a half in depth, and bake in a good oven. When they are sufficiently baked, spread some sugar icing over them, and return them to the oven for a_ minute or two to dry. Time to bake, from thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. for this quantity. Sufficient for two or three small cakes, or one large one. Cocoa-nut Pudding.—Mix two eggs well beaten’ with a cupful of new milk ‘and the milk of the cocoa-nut, if the latter is quite sweet. Take off the brown skin of the nut, and grate the white part as finely as possible. Mix it with three table-spoonfuls of fincly- grated bread-crumbs, three table-spoonfuls ‘of sifted sugar, two ounces of butter beaten to cream, six ounces of Muscatel raisins, and a tea- spoonful of lemon-rind thinly sliced. Beat all well together, pour the mixture into a well- buttered pie-dish, and bake it'in a rather slow oven. Turn it out, and serve with sifted sugar strewn over it.. This pudding may be. either baked or boiled.. Time-to bake, one hour and a half; to ‘boil, three hours. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cocoa-nut Pudding (another way).— Take a large, fresh cocoa-nut, remove the brown skin, and grate the white part as finely as pos- sible; mix very thoroughly a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, and the grated cocoa-nut ; when they are quite smoothly mixed, add-a pint of new milk or cream, five eggs well beaten, a tiny pinch of salt, and the eighth of a nutmeg grated. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered dish, and bake if good oven. This pudding may be eaten cithe r hot or cold. Time to bake, about forty . minutes.. Probable cost, 1s. 8d., if. made with milk. Sufficient for five or six persons. . Cocoa-nut Sauce.—Gratefinely the white | part of a cocoa-nut, and boil it gently, stirring it well, in a:cupful of water, in which has-been dissolved its weight, ‘before boiling, in sugar; press it through a sieve; add a cuptul of thick cream and the beaten yolk of an-egg; put the ‘mixture on the fire for a minute or two, but do not let it boil after the egg is added, for fear it should curdle. Time, altogether, half an hour, Probable cost, cocoa-nut, 4d. or 6d, Sufficient for a moderate-sized pudding. d Cocoa-nut Soup.—Grate very finely the white of a fresh cononent, and snares it ceatiy for an hour in some good stock, allowing 2 quarter of a pound of cocoa-nut for every half gallon of stock. Strain the liquid, and thicken it with some ground rice; half a pound of ground rice -will be enough for this quantity. Season it with a little salt and cayenne, and a small tea-spoonful of mace. Just before serving, draw it from the fire, and add a cupful of thick cream. Time, altogether, two hours. Probable ‘cost, 1s. per quart. Sufficient, this quantity for nine or ten persons. ‘ Cocoa-nut Soup (another way).—Boil the: stock and the cocoa-nut together, as in the last recipe. ‘Thicken the ‘soup with ground rice, being careful to mix it smoothly with a little cold stock or water before putting it into the boiling liquid. Add two table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice; two table-spoonfuls of soy, a nut- meg grated, and a little salt and cayenne. . Just before serving, add a tumblerful of sherry., Time, altogether, two hours. Probable cost, 1s. per quart, exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for nine or ten persons. Cocoa-nut Spongecakes.—Takealarge fresh cocoa-nut, remove the brown skin, and grate it on a perfectly clean, bright grater as finely as possible; beat the yolks’ of six eggs, and be sure that they are perfectly fresh ; stir'in , ‘gradually, and mix thoroughly, half a pound of ‘sifted sugar, a pinch of salt, half a tea-spoonful : of grated: lemon-rind, and: the yolks of the eggs. Beat’ the mixture for a quarter of an hour, then add, by degrees, a quarter of a pound of flour, ‘and the ‘grated cocoa-nut, and last of all, the whites of the eggs whisked till firm. Line’ square tins with buttered paper, pour in. the mixture, and bake the cakes immediately, in a brisk oven. Do not open the door of the oven until the cakes are baked. Time,’ about half: an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. Sufficient for one moderate-sized cake, or two small ones. Cod.—Cod comes into season about. the: beginning of October, when other large fish are going out. If the weather is cold, it is then’ very good; it is at its very best about Christ- mas, but goes off from the end of February or the middle of March. It is essentially a winter fish, and is not to be had in the hot months of the year. The best cod are those ‘which are | plump and round at the tail, the sides having'a' ribbed appearance, with yellow spots upon a pure skin. In order to ascertain if the fish is fresh, press the finger into the flesh, and if it rises immediately and feels firm and stiff, it is fresh. Tt is much better not to cook a cod whole. The .| upper part is so much thicker than the tail that the latter would be boiled to rags before the: rest was cooked. The head and shoulders ‘are generally boiled; the rest may be fried or stewed in slices. Epicures look out for the ‘| sound, the glutinous parts about the head, and the tongue. A‘little salt should be rubbed. coD down the bone and on the thick part as soon as the fish comes into the house. Cod (a la Béchamel).—Remove the flesh from the bones, and break it into convenient pieces. Put a cupful of white stock nicely seasoned, and a cupful of new milk, into a saucepan; thicken it with a little flour and butter, put the pieces of fish into it, and let them remain until quite hot, but the sauce must not be allowed to boil. Serve with the sauce and fish in the middle of a hot dish, and place a border of mashed potatoes round it. Time, twenty minutes. Cod (a Ja Créme).—Boil a slice of cod, and, while it is warm, break it into convenient-sized pieces, or the remains of cold cod may be used instead. Puta pint of new milk into a sauce- pan, with a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half the rindofasmalllemon. Letit stand by the side of the fire till the milk is hot and the flavour of the lemon and mace is drawn out; then strain it into a basin. Puta piece of butter the size of a large egg into a sauce- pan, and, when it is melted, mix two table- spoonfuls of flour very smoothly with it; add the milk gradually till the sauce is of the proper thickness; let it boil a few minutes, then put in the pieces of fish. Let them heat through. Serve with sippets of toasted bread. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the fish, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Cod (a lEspagnole).—Take one or two slices of cod about an inch in thickness, or the tail end of the cod, remove the skin, dredge a dittle flour over the fish, and fry it in hot butter or lard until nicely browned. Take it out gently with an egg-slice, drain it, and put it into a saucepan with as much good brown gravy, boiling, as will swim it. Add a little salt and cayenne, the juice of half a lemon, a lump of sugar, an onion stuck with two cloves, and half a tumblerful of port. Simmer very softly till the fish is sufficiently cooked; take it out, place it on a hot dish, strain the gravy, thickening it with a little browned butter, and serve immediately. Claret may be substi- tuted for the port, if preferred, or the wine may be omitted altogether, and the sauce flavoured with ketchup. Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost of cod, when in full season, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, two slices for four persons. Cod (a la Frangaise).—Take two slices of cod about an inch and a half in thickness. Put them in salt and water for a few minutes, then drain, and. fry them in hot butter till they are half cooked. Cover them with good stock, stew them until tender, then place them on a hot dish, and pour over them a pint of sauce, made as follows:—Put a breakfast-cupful of nicely- flavoured stock into a saucepan with half the quantity of thick cream; let it boil, draw it back, and when cool, add salt and pepper, half a tea-spoonful of lemon, half a tea-spoonful of garlic vinegar, and half a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar. Time, altogether, from forty to fifty minutes. Probable cost of cod, 8d. per pound, Sufficient for four or five persons. Cod (a la Maitre d’Hétel).—Boil two slices of cod, as in the last recipe. Wash some fresh (144 ) cop green parsley in two or three waters. Chop it small, and knead two table-spoonfuls of it with two ounces of fresh butter, an ounce of flour, a little salt and cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon. Put this mixture into a saucepan with half a pint of milk, and stir it over a gentle fire until it is on the point of boiling. ‘Add another half ounce of butter, and when it is melted pour the sauce over the fish and serve. The sauce may be made by stirring a table- spoonful of finely-chopped parsley in a pint of good melted butter. Mix well, season with salt and cayenne, add the juice of half a lemon, and, just before serving, draw the sauce back, and add, very gradually, the well-beaten yolk» of two eggs. Time, altogether, about forty minutes. Probable cost, about 8d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cod (ala Provencale), Coup Mzat Cooxzry. —Remove the skin and bones from the remains of cold cod, and break it into convenient-sized pieces. Mince finely equal quantities of shallot, young onions, or chives, parsley, and lemon- peel. Add a little grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper, and mix all well together with two table-spoonfuls of salad-oil. Place this in a pie-dish, put in the pieces of fish, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve very hot, with lemon- juice squeezed over the fish. Time, three- quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold fish. Sufficient for three or four persons. Cod (au Gratin).—Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, and break the flesh into convenient-sized pieces. Butter a pie-dish rather thickly; place in it alternate layers of cod and oyster sauce until the dish is full, flavouring each layer with salt, cayenne, and a‘little powdered mace. Strew fine bread- crumbs over all, and put two or three little pieces of butter here and there. Bake for about half an hour. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d., exclusive of the cold cod and oyster sauce. Sufficient, a small dishful for two or three persons. Cod, Baked.—Take a piece weighing about three pounds out of the middle of a large cod. Make a stuffing with the sound boiled for twenty minutes, chopped small, and mixed with two ounces of grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoon- ful of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, a small tea-spoonful of salt, half the quantity of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Bind all together with a little of the white of the egg. Put this forcemeat inside the fish, and sew it up. Place the fish in a baking-dish, and pour over it enough thin flour and water to fill the dish three parts. Put in a dozen oysters, also a little scraped horse-radish, and a little salt and pepper. Lay three or four lumps of butter on the fish, put it in the oven, and baste it fre- quently. When it is sufficiently cooked, lay the cod on a hot dish, and garnish it with the oysters. Put the gravy into a saucepan, add to it a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, and another of vinegar; boil it, pour it over the fish, and serve. Time to bake, about one hour. Pro- bable cost of cod, when plentiful, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. cop (245) COD Cod, Baked. (another way).—Prepare the fish as in the last recipe; brush it over with beaten egg, strew some finely-grated bread- crumbs on it, and put it in a dish with three or four lumps of butter on it. Baste it frequently, and turn it over that it may be equally cooked throughout. Some persons place the fish on a drainer over a deep dish, in which is placed a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a cupful of water, and the juice of a lemon. The fish is then basted frequently with butter, but it must not touch either the vegetables or the water. Serve either with melted butter, oyster sauce, shrimp sauce, or sauce supréme. Time to bake, about one hour. Probable cost of cod, 8d. per pound when in full season. Sufficient for five or six persons. ‘Cod, Boiled.—In cold weather cod is better for being kept a day, as, if cooked quite fresh, it may prove watery. A large cod-fish should not be cooked whole, the head and shoulders make a good dish by themselves, though the middle contains more solid meat. ‘Wash and cleanse the inside of the fish with great nicety, and especially the back-bone ; put it into plenty of cold water, in which a handful of salt has been thrown, bring it to a boil, skim it carefully, let it boil gently, and, when it is nearly cooked, draw it to the side of the fire, and let it remain until done. Put it on the fish-plate over the boiling water, and let it drain for a minute or two, and dish it on a hot napkin, with the ree and liver, which should be boiled separately, a little scraped horse-radish, or fried.oysters, as garnish. Oyster or anchovy sauce, or plain melted butter, may be served with it. Time to boil, twenty minutes for a moderate-sized piece, longer for a large one. | When the flesh leaves the bone easily the fish is cooked enough. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, four pounds for six persons. Cod, Cold.—The remains of cod may be used in various ways. One thing, however, should be attended to, and that is:to remove the flesh from the skin and bones before it is quite cold. When this is done the cod may be simply arranged in neat flakes on a plate, peppered, a little vinegar poured over it, and the fish garnished with parsley; and served thus, it will not be a despicable addition to the breakfast-table, though further trouble will be amply repaid. If any cold sauce is left, it may be poured over the fish, bread-crumbs or mashed potatoes spread on it, a piece of butter dotted here and there, and the whole browned in a good oven, or before the fire (see Fish Pudding). It may be served with macaroni (see Cod and Macaroni). It may be made into cakes, and served as cutlets (see Cod-fish Cakes). It may be moulded (see Fish Mould). It may be stewed, and served with maitre d’hétel sauce, Italian sauce, or supréme sauce. It may be curried, cooked with grated Parmesan, or with bécha- mel, or brown sauce, or served au gratin, & la Provencale, or as a mayonnaise. The pieces may be put into a stewpan, taking care not to omit the sound, the tongue, or the eatable. parts about the head. Any sauce that may be left may then be poured over it, a lump of butter added, and a dozen osyters with their 10.—n.. liquor, or mussels, or cockles, or a few shrimps, The preparation may then be heated gently, put into « dish, bread-crumbs strewed over, and browned. In numerous ways cold cod, or cold fish of any kind, may be, with a little trouble and attention, presented again at table, and will form a palatable and pleasing dish. Cod, Crimped.—Make some deep cuts as far as the bones on both sides of a perfectly" fresh cod, making the cuts at two inches dis- tance, and cut one or two gashes on the cheeks; then lay the fish ir cold water, with a table- spoonful of vinegar in it, for an hour or two. It may afterwards be boiled or fried. If it is to be boiled, it should be plunged at once into boiling water, and then simmered gently. Crimping renders the flesh firmer, and makes it better both to cook and to serve. Cod, Croquettes of.—Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, and mince one pound very finely with one dozen oysters, or two dozen cockles, a little pepper and salt, and four ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs ; work the mixture well together with a little cream, and make it up into balls about the size of an egg; dip these in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, fry them in a little hot lard till lightly browned, and serve them piled high in a dish, and garnished with parsley. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold cod and oysters. Allow two croquettes for each person. ° Cod, Curried.—Put. a piece of butter about the size of a large egg into a saucepan, let it melt, then fry in it three pounds of cod cut into pieces about two inches square, two large onions, and one apple cut into thin slices, a tea- spoonful of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Let them remain until the onions are nicely browned, ther. add a breakfast-cupful of good stock, « tea- spoonful of curry powder, a tea-spoonful of curry paste, and a tea-spoonful of ground rice mixed smoothly with a little of the stock. Simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, add a small cupful of cream, two pinches of salt, and one of pepper. Put the cod ona hot dish, and the gravy over it, and serve with a wall of rice round the dish. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of cod, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Cod, Curried (another way).—Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, break it into flakes, and fry it a golden brown in some hot dripping or lard. Drain it, and fry some sliced onions in the same fat, put them with the fish, and stir into the fat some rice flour. Mix it quite smoothly, and add by degrees sufficient stock to make the sauce of the consistency of cream; add a tea-spoonful of curry powder, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and two or three grains of cayenne. Put the cod and onions with the curry, and let it simmer for a few minutes. Place the fish on a hot dish ; add half a cupful of cream to the gravy, let it nearly boil, then pour it over the fish, and serve with a wall of rice or not. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold fish and the cream. Sufficient, one pound of cold fish with sauce, for three persons. cop (46 ) coD Cod-fish Cakes.—Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, and weigh the meat. To every pound of cod allow an equal weight of well-mashed potatoes, a tea- spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, a few drops of anchovy, half a tea-spoonful of chopped onion, one egg, and sufficient milk to bind the mixture together. If the dish is salted, the salt must be omitted. Make the paste up into small cakes about an inch thick, fry them in hot butter or lard till they are well browned on both sides, and serve them as hot as possible. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold fish, Allow two or three cakes for each person, COD FOR TABLE, Cod. for Table.—A ‘small cod is fre- quently boiled whole; but in a large fish, the head and shoulders are the most edible portions. It should be dished carefully, so as not to break it, upon a very hot napkin, and garnished with the liver and roe. Tufts of horse-radish, slightly grated, are generally placed round the dish. Oyster sauce and melted butter should be served with it. Anchovy sauce may be used if oysters are not to be had. Cod, Fried.—The tail end of the cod is best cooked in this manner, as it is not much es- teemed when boiled. Steaks may ‘be cut from the middle and served in this way also. Cut ‘the fish into slices rather more than an inch thick, wash them well and dry them thoroughly ina clean cloth. Roll them in flour, and sprinkle a little salt and grated nutmeg over them. Plunge them into boiling lard, and fry them till they are lightly browned on both sides, and the flesh parts easily from the bone. Put them on a piece. of clean. blotting paper to clear them from fat; serve them on a hot napkin, and send them to table garnished with parsley and ac- companied with melted butter or anchovy sauce. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Pro- bable cost of cod, 8d. per pound, when plentiful. Sufficient, three pounds for four or five persons. Cod, Fried (Coup Meat Cooxzry).— Take the remains of cold cod. Break it into Pieces about two inches long and one broad, and dip each into a light batter. Fry them in hot lard or dripping. Put them on blotting paper to clear them from the fat, pile them on a dish, and garnish with fried parsley, Time, three or four minutes to fry. | Cod, Head and Shoulders of.—Wash the fish thoroughly, rub a little salt on the inside of it, and bind tape round the cheeks to prevent them breaking. If the fish is crimped, it ‘ ee ae 1 COD’S HEAD AND SHOULDERS, may be plunged into hot water, if ‘not, cold must be used, but it must be poured very géntly over the cod so as not to break the skin. A table-spoonful of salt should'‘be allowed ‘for every three quarts of water.’ As soon as the water boils, draw the kettle on one side, remove the scum, carefully, and let the fish simmer gently tillit is ready. Drain it well, and serve ona hot napkin with the roe and liver, which should be cooked separately, and a little horse- radish and sliced lemon for garnish. "When the flesh parts easily from the bone the fish is ready. Send oyster or anchovy ‘sauce’ and melted butter to table with it.. The time to boil will depend on the ‘size, quality, and. age of the fish; a small, young head and shoulders will not require more than twenty minutes; ard a large, old, solid one may take forty. Probable cost, 8d. or 10d. ‘per pound: Sufficient for six or seven persons. © =: - Cod Head, Browned.—A cod’s head in London is usually sold and served with the shoulders, but in some places itis cut ‘off, and the rest of the fish retailed by the pound. As the head contains one or ‘two of the tit- bits, namely, the 'tongue, the nape of the neck, and: the gelatinous parts’ about the cheeks,’ it makes a very good dish.’ Take two or three heads, remove the eyes, wash the heads, drain them, sprinkle a little salt over them, and let them lie an hour or two; put them into boiling water, and boil them from ten to twenty minutes, according to the size. Take them out, drain _them, remove the skin, and dredge a little flour equally over them. Place them before a clear fire, and baste them well with good dripping or butter. When they are lightly browned they are ready. Garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. For sauce, thicken a breakfast-cupful of the liquid in which the heads were boiled, with a lump of butter rolled in flour. Boil this, stirring it all the time, till it is quite smooth: add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and send the sauce to table in a tureen. Probable cost of cod’s head, 2d. each. Sufficient, two or three for a dish. , : ' . Cod Mould.—Take the remains of cold cod or any cold fish, weigh it, and with one pound of fish mix three table-spoonfiils of coD (147 ), coD bread-crumbs, a table-spoonful of anchovy sauce, and a little salt and cayenne. If any sauce Temains it may be used instead of the anchovy. Pound all well in a mortar, with a little butter and the yolk of an egg. Press the mixture into a well-buttered mould; cover it with a plate, and steam it for three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of tho cold fish. Sufficient for three persons. . Cod Pie, Fresh.—Take a deep pie-dish, and fill it three-parts with pieces of fresh cod, |. Season it with'salt, | cayenne, and grated nutmeg, lay two dozen about two: inches: square. oysters on the ‘top, and put two or three lumps of butter over it. Cover it with a good crust, and bake it in a moderateoven. Time to bake, about forty minutes. Probable cost of cod, 8d. per pound, when plentiful. A pie made with three pounds of cod, and two dozen of oysters, will be sufficient for six persons.,. Cod Pie, Salt.—Soak the edd for twelve hours, and simmer it for a quarter of an hour: Cut it into pieces about two inches square. Take a deep -pie-dish ; place a layer of sliced potatoes half boiled at the bottom of the dish, then'a layer of fish, then one of partly-boiled onions sliced. ‘Put a little pepper and pounded’ mace on each layer, and a lump of butter, but, of course, no salt. Make some good melted butter, and mix with it a little made mustard, a table- spoonful of ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies. Pour this over the pie, cover it with a good crust, and bake it. in a brisk oven. Mashed potatoes may be spread over the top of the pie, instead of pastry, if preferred. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of salt fish, 6d. per pound. Sufficient, a moderate-sized pie for three or four persons. Cod Roe.—Parboil the roe, in salt and water, and vinegar. Cut it into thin slices, and dip each slice into frying batter. Fry in hot butter or oil until lightly browned. Drain, and serve them on a hot napkin, witha garnish of sliced lemons and parsley. Time to boil the roe, eight minutes; to fry, eight minutes. Allow three or four slices for each person. .Cod, Salt (a la Frangaise ).— Choose cod which has not been very long salted. Soak itand simmer for a quarter of an hour. When sufficiently cooked, drain the fish, and remove the skin and bone; break the flesh into flakes, put them in a stewpan, and stir them quickly over the fire for five or six minutes, adding olive- oil, a little at a time, until a smooth paste is formed. ‘Take it from the fire, add a little thick cream, and cayenne, and if the flavour is liked, some pounded garlic. Place the mixture on a dish, and serve it with toasted sippets. Time ‘to heat the fish with the oil while stirring it, five or six minutes. Probable cost of salt fish; 6d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for three or’four persons. _ Cod, Salt, Fried.—Soak and simmer the cod as in the preceding recipe; drain, it, and divide it into large flakes, Fry two large onions cut into thin slices in a little butter, and, when ' lightly browned, drain them. Thicken the butter with a little flour, and when very smooth add gradually a little new milk or cream until the sauce is as thick as a custard. Let the onions heat once more in the sauce, and season them with a little. cayenne. Fry the flakes of fish until lightly browned. Place them on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over them. Time to simmer the salt cod, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. One, pound of cod with sauce will serve for’ three or four persons. : ‘eg Cod, Salt, with Parsnips (a dish for Ash ‘Wednesday).—Salt cod is ‘usually ‘aécom- panied by parsnips, probably, because’ that | wholesome root is at its best and sweetest during the course of Lent, and it is very generally served with them and egg sauce on Ash Wed- nesday. Wash the fish ‘thoroughly, and lay it in cold water to draw out the salt. It must | lie for at least twelve hours, and longer if it is very salt, and the water ought to be. changed every four or five hours. When ‘thoroughly | soaked, put ‘it in a saucepan with plenty of cold water, and let it heat very gradually. It must not be allowed: to ‘boil, or it will harden, When nearly boiling, draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for about twenty minutes. Drain it, and serve-it unbroken on a hot napkin;: accompanied. by mashed parsnips and egg sauce (see Egg Sauce). Time to soak, from twelve to forty-eight hours, according to the dryness and saltness of the fish. Probable cost,.6d. per pound. Cod Sound as_Chicken.—Soak and wash three large sounds (see Cod Sound, Boiled), and. boil them in milk and water for half, an hour. Scrape off the dark skin, and let them cool. Make ‘a forcemeat with a dozen chopped oysters, three ounces: of finely-grated bread- crumbs, half « tea-spoonful of salt, and the same of white pepper, a blade of mace pounded, two chopped anchovies, and three ounces, of butter.. Work all well together with the yolks. of two eggs, spread the forcemeat thinly over the sounds, and truss each. one as nearly as possible in the form of a chicken. Dredge a little flour over them, and cook them:in:a Dutch. oven, basting them well with butter. or lard.., Serve with oyster sauce poured overthem. To roast, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Cod Sound, Boiled.—Cod sounds are much liked by many persons, and may always be procured salted. They are con- venient when kept in store in country houses, though, on account of the necessary soaking, they cannot be served in a hurry. Put them into plenty of cold water all night, then scrape and rub off the dark skin with a cloth, wash them thoroughly, and put them in a stewpan with equal parts of milk and -water, ‘and boil them very gently until tender. Be. careful to remove the scum as it rises.: Serve them ona hot napkin, with egg sauce. Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. | per pound. One pound will be enough for four persons. © ‘Cod Sound, Broiled. — Prepare the sounds as in the preceding recipe. Scrape coD ( 148 ) coD them clean, and simmer for half an hour; rub them with butter, and dredge with flour, season with salt and white pepper, and put them on the gridiron over a clear fire to broil. Make half « pint of good melted butter, and mix with it a tea-spoonful of mustard, a des- sert-spoonful of soy, and a drachm of cayenne pepper. Heat it, and pour it over the broiled sounds. Time, about forty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Sufficient, a quarter of a pound for each person. Cod Sound, Fricasseed. — Soak, scrape, and boil as many cod sounds as may be required. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan with sufficient white stock to cover them; season the sauce with salt, pepper, and powdered mace, thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and, just before serving it, squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Serve with toasted sippets. Time to boil, half an hour. Sufficient, a quarter of a pound for each person. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Cod Sound Pie.—Take equal weights of boiled cod sounds, hard-boiled eggs, and boiled cod. Place these ingredients in layers in a deep pie-dish, season them with pepper, salt, and powdered mace, and pour some good oyster sauce over all. Cover with a good crust, and bake the pie in a moderate oven. It may be used either hot or cold. Probable cost of sounds, 6d. per pound. Time, three- quarters of an hour for a moderate-sized pie. Cod, Stewed.—The tail of a cod is some- times boiled like the rest of the fish, but it rarely proves a satisfactory dish, and is much vetter stewed or fried. Cut three pounds of cod into slices about an inch and a half in thick- ness, and fry these lightly in butter or good dripping. Drain them from the fat, and put the slices into a stewpan with a pint of good stock, as much pounded mace as would lie on a fourpenny piece, and a pinch of cayenne; add three ounces of butter rubbed smoothly with a table-spoonful of flour, a dessert-spoonful of anchovy essence, a glass of sherry, and the juice of half a small lemon. Simmer for eight minutes, then add a dozen and a half of oysters chopped small, with their liquor. Simmer two minutes more. Place the slices of cod on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve immediately. Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost of cod, when in full season, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. Cod and Macaroni.—Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, and break it into small pieces. Take its weight in macaroni, and boil it until tender; drain, and cut itinto short lengths of an equal size. Make a little good melted butter, allowing a pint for a pound of cod and a pound of macaroni; season it with salt, cayenne, and the juice of a lemon: let it boil, draw it from the fire, and add the well-beaten yolk of an egg. Put the fish and macaroni with the sauce; and when they are quite hot, put the whole into a hot dish. The sauce must not boil after the egg is put in. Cover the mixture with grated bread-crumbs, and brown the top with a sala- mander or ina brisk oven. Time, one hour. Cod and Parmesan Cheese. — Take the remains of cold cod, remove the skin and bones, and break the flesh into convenient-sized pieces, not very small. Make a little good white sauce, warm the pieces of cod in it, drain them, and dip each piece in beaten egg, bread- crumbs, and Parmesan cheese. Thicken the gravy with a little arrowroot or fine flour: keep it hot in the saucepan. Fry the pieces of fish in some hot butter until lightly browned, pour the sauce over them, and serve the whole as hot as possible. Time to fry, eight or ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold fish. Sufficient, as much fish as will re- quire a pint of sauce, for four or five pérsons. Cod, with Mashed Potatoes.—Take the remains of cold cod and its weight in mashed potatoes, remove the skin and bones, and to every pound of fish allow one tea-spoon- ful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and one or two grains of cayenne; pound all together to a smooth paste, with a little butter, oil, or cream. Place the mixture in a well- buttered dish, roughen the top with a fork, and bake it in a moderate oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost for cod, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Codling Soup.— Take two or three codlings, remove the flesh from the bones, and put them with the heads into three quarts of good veal stock; add a bunch of savoury herbs and a large onion stuck with three cloves. Simmer the soup gently for two hours, then strain it, return it to the stewpan, and thicken it with a lump of butter rolled in flour. Put the slices of fish into the soup, with a glass of sherry, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoon- ful of pepper, and two grains of cayenne. Simmer for twenty minutes, then serve at once. A dozen oysters, with their liquor, is an im- provement to the soup. Probable cost, 10d. per quart, exclusive of the wine and oysters. Sufficient for six persons. Codlings, Sauce for.—Cod ang codlings should be sent to table with oyster sauce and good melted butter. The melted butter should be of the consistency of light batter, as it has to be flavoured either with essence of anchovy, lemon-juice, Chili vinegar, ormushroom ketchup. A good sauce for boiled cod is made as follows: Simmer very gently together, for half an hour, a cupful of water, a cupful of vinegar, two shallots, and a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies. Strain the liquid, and add two table-spoonfuls of good cream, and the well- beaten yolks of two eggs. The sauce must not be allowed to boil up after the eggs are added. _Codlings, To Dress.—Codlings may be either baked, boiled, or fried. To bake them: Flour the fish, salt and pepper it, and lay it in a pan with a little cold water, an onion stuck with four or five cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Put a piece of butter on the top, and bake it in a moderate oven. When sufficiently cooked, take out the fish carefully, strain the gravy, thicken it with a little flour, and add a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies and two table-spoonfuls of Harvey’s sauce. Let it boil, pour it round the fish, and garnish with COF (149) COF slices of lemon. To boil: put the fish into boiling water, and let them boil very gently’ until the flesh leaves the bone easily. Serve with parsley or anchovy sauce. Zo fry: Rub the codlings with flour, then brush them well with egg, dip them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in plenty of hot lard or dripping. When a thick smoke rises from them they will be ready. Drain them from the fat, and serve with shrimp or oyster sauce. Time: to bake, three-quarters of an hour; to boil, a quarter of an hour; to fry, ten minutes. Sufficient, one ae for two persons. Probable cost, 8d. or 1s. each. c Coffee.—This beverage which is so highly esteemed on the continent, and the appreciation of which is becoming more general every year in our own land, is often made so badly that it loses its delicious aroma and invigorating quali- ties, and produces only nausea and indigestion. There are numberless recipes for making it, and every one considers his plan the best, but surely it is proved that some enlightenment on this subject is necessary, when a cup of really good coffee is a most difficult article to obtain, and the quality of that which is commonly drunk in this country is very inferior. The first thing to be attended to is to have the material good. The best plan is to buy a large quantity raw, and to keep it for years before using it, roast- ing a little as it is required, as the quality of the berry improves with keeping. This, how- ever, is not convenient in many houses, and therefore in ordinary circumstances it is quite as satisfactory and much less troublesome to buy the berries already roasted of some first- class dealer. Though not always roasted, how- ever, the coffee should always be ground at home, immediately before it is wanted. When once the berry is ground, the aroma quickly escapes. The berries should be put into the oven for a short time to warm before they are ground. Besides being particular about the quality of their coffee, Englishmen have to learn not to be sparing of the quantity. The continental allowance is a cupful of freshly- ground coffee for three cupfuls of liquid. This may, of course, be considered extravagant and unnecessary, but one thing is certain, if the coffee is not strong the aroma is lost. The finest sugar should always be served with coffee, and boiling milk or cream as well as cold. When, for purposes of economy, a cheap coffee is purchased, the flavour may be improved by the addition of a small quantity of chicory, but it should be bought separately, and mixed at home, and not more than two ounces of chicory powder put with one pound of coffee. The effect. of chicory is to impart a slight bitterness to the coffee, and to darken its colour, and it is considered by many persons an improvement ; but this is not pure coffee. Coffee and Milk (see Café au Lait). Coffee, Black (see Café Noir). Coffee, Breakfast. — Coffee is best when made in a tin cafetiére. Take freshly roasted berries, grind them at the last moment, and make the powder hot in the oven. Place it upon the perforated bottom of the upper compartment, put the strainer on it, and pour boiling water in gradually. Coffee thus made will be clear, bright, and full of flavour. When a cafetiére cannot be had, proceed as follows :— Fit a small muslin bag inside the top of the coffee-pot. Pour a little boiling water through this, and, when the pot is hot, pour it off, and put the coffee into the bag. Pour boiling water gradually over it, and when it is all drained through remove the bag and send it to table.- It should be remembered that the water should. be poured on a little at a time, or the strength: of the powder will not be thoroughly extracted. ‘When it can be done, coffee should be sent to table in the same pot in which it was made, as this will prevent its getting cool; and coffee for breakfast is nothing to speak of if it is not hot. Time, two or three minutes. Probable cost, Mocha coffee, 2s. per pound. Sufficient, allow a heaped table-spoonful of freshly-ground coffee for every breakfast-cupful of boiling water. Coffee, Burnt (the French “ Gloria ”).— This coffee should be served in small cups, and be made as strong and clear as possible, and sweetened, almost to a syrup. At the last moment a little brandy should be poured gently over it on a spoon, fire set to it, and when the spirit is partly consumed, the flame blown out, and the coffee drunk’ quite hot. Allow a cupful for each person. Probable cost, 6d. per cup. : Coffee Cream.—Make a breakfast-cupful of strong, clear coffee ; add half a pint of boiling cream to it; beat them well together; sweeten with two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and, when cool, add a small pinch of salt, the well-beaten. yolks of six eggs, and the whites of two. Stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes, to thicken it, pour it into glasses, and serve with a little sifted sugar on the top of each glass. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. for this quantity. Suffi- cient for six or eight persons. Coffee Custard.—Mix thoroughly a cup- ful of strong, clear coffee, with four times the quantity of boiling milk, three table-spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, and a good pinch of salt; mix in very gradually the yolks of five eggs, well beaten. Stir the custard over a moderate fire until it thickens, pour it into cups, and serve cold. Sufficient for six persons. Pro- bable cost, 1s. for this quantity. Coffee, Essence of, to prepare.— Pour a breakfast-cupful of boiling milk over a dessert-spoonful of the essence of coffee, and stir the mixture until it is smoothly blended. It is a good plan to keep the essence of coffee in the house when any one is in the habit of leaving early in the morning. With it a comforting cup of coffee may be made with very little trouble in a short time. Sufficient, three des- sert-spoonfuls for a breakfast-cupful. Probable cost, 1s. 10d. per pint bottle. Coffee, French method.—Pour a pint of boiling water upon two and a half ounces of freshly-ground coffee. Put the lid on the coffee-pot, and place it on the hob to simmer gently without boiling. Stir it occasionally, and at the end of two hours, take it off the COF ( 150 ) coL fire, and let it stand for a quarter of an hour to clear. Pour the coffee into the cups, and serve with milk and sugar. Probable cost, 2s. per pound. Sufficient for one'pint of coffee” Coffee, Ice Cream.—Mix a breakfast- cupful of strong clear coffee with another one of boiling milk, six table-spoonfuls of finely- sifted sugar, and the yolks of six-eggs. Stir the custard over a moderate fire until it thickens, then add a pint of thick cream. Stir it again over the fire till the cream coats the spoon, but do not let it boil: Pour it out, when cold put it in a mould, and freeze in the usual way. - Coffee Jelly,—Pour a pint of boiling milk through a muslin bag containing three ounces of freshly-ground coffee. Put one ounce and a half of soaked gelatine into a sauce- pan with a pint of cold milk, an inch of stick cinnamon, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Let it boil, and stir it until the gelatine is dis- solved. Mix the yolks of two eggs with the coffee, strain the milk and gelatine upon it, pour it into a mould which has been immersed in cold water, and let it. remain in a cool place | until stiff. It will stiffen in about twenty-four hours. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for rather more than a quart of: jelly. . ee Coffee, Soyer’s Mode of Making — | ; M. Soyer, "the Erench cook’ 8, way of making, | handles, and perforated holes at the bottom and coffee was to warm the freshly-ground coffee, mixed with a soupcon of chicory, over‘the fire, stirring it until it was quite hot: He then poured the boiling water upon it, allowed it to stand for ten minutes,“and served it with milk and sugar.’ Sufficient, a quarter of a pound’ of coffee and a quarter of an ounce of chicory. for every three quarts of water. Probable cost, 6d. per quart, with milk and sugar: iu Coffee, To Grind.—Coffee. should not be ground too finely, or it will be difficult to make the liquid clear. It ought to be ground immediately before it is used. Nothing so soon loses its flavour as coffee when it is ‘powdered, and ‘especially if it is left uncovered. If chicory is added, two ‘ounces will be enough for one pound of coffee. Small coffee mills for domestic use are sold everywhere. Time to grind, a few minutes. Sufficient, 4 pound of raw berries when roasted and ground will ’ produce thirteen ounces of ground coffee. ' — Coffee, To Roast.—To roast coffee properly, a suitable apparatus, which is made for the purpose, should be purchased. There are two or three different kinds, and the price varies, the cheapest being about 8s. Many per- sons, however, who have a prejudice in favour of roasting their own coffee, and do not possess a “drum,” use an iron saucepan with a closely- fitting lid. If this is done, great care will be required, or the coffee will either, be burnt, in which case the aroma will be destroyed, or not sufficiently roasted, and then the flavour will not be fully developed. It: is a good plan to wash the berries before roasting them, it'not: only cleanses them, but tests their quality. Those which float on the top of the water are not good. The berries must afterwards be carefully dried, both in. a cloth and in thé tin. To roast them, put a little piece of perfectly ‘fresh sweet butter about the size of a walnut into the ‘pan with three pourids of berries. Place the lid on, and.shake the saucepan about continually, until a slight smoke arises.’ Then draw the saucepan back, and stir the berries ‘ about with a wooden spoon till they are lightly mon. Spread them on a flat dish, and throw'a ‘thick cloth over'them, When quite cold put ‘the berries into dry bottles, and cork them ‘closely. It is a good plan to buy a large quan- tity of raw berries, and roast two or three pounds as required.. The coffee berry ought not to be roasted until it is three years old, and it im- proves with keeping. The fire should be clear’ oud bright, but not fierce, or half a minute will urn it. COLANDERS, Colander.—The colander is a basin with sides, It is used for straining vegetables, &c., and is brought into daily use in almost every household. Colanders are made of tin and earthenware; the tin ones are the more durable, but the earthenware are the sweeter of the two, excepting when quite new. Probable cost, 1g. to 4s. : , Coleannon.—Poilseparately equal weights of young cabbage, sdvoy, or spinach, and po- tatoes. Chop the greens and mash the potatoes, | and mix them well together with a little pepper and salt, and one ounce of butter to one pound of the mixed vegetables. Heat the mixture over the fire for a few minutes, stirring it all the time; then press it into a hot, well-buttered mould. ‘Turn out and serve. Or, press it after mixing into a well-buttered mould, and put it into the oven for half an hour. Turn out and serve. Cold vegetables may be warmed up in this way. Probable cost, 6d.. for a pint mould. Sufficient for three or four persons. Cold Pudding.—Butter a plain round mould, and ornament it with raisins and sliced candied citron. Put a little orange or apricot marmalade on some ladies’ fingers, place them in the mould, and pour over them some nicely- flavoured custard. Let them soak for half an hour, lay a buttered paper upon the pudding, and steam gently for one hour and:a half. Turn the pudding out when it is cold, and serve if with a little sherry. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. for a medium-sized pudding. Sufficient for four persons. Collared Meat.—To collar meat is to preserve it so that it will keep much longer than when fresh, It is well seasoned, sliced, pickled, and rolled. Meat thus prepared makes a nice breakfast or luncheon dish. It should ‘ and equally browned, to the colour of cinna-. coL ( 151) coL be kept in a cool place in a mould with a. weight upon it. Calf’s head,. pig's head, veal, beef, tongues, and fish can all:be prepared in this way, and are generally highly approved. College Puddings.—Shred six ounces of beef suet very finely, and mix’ with it six ounces of well-washed currants, six ounces of sifted sugar, half a pound of finely-grated bread- crumbs, three table-spoontfuls of sugar, a dessert- spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, a quarter of a nutmeg ‘grated, three eggs well beaten, and two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Form the mix- ture into little puddings about the size and shape of a large duck’s egg. Roll them in a little flour, and fry them, till lightly browned, in plenty of lard or butter over a clear but not too strong a fire. Drain them from the fat, and serve them, piled high on a hot napkin, with wine sauce. Time to fry, from twenty to thirty minutes. Sufficient for eight puddings. , Pro- bable cost, 13d. each. . ; College Pudding, Baked.—Blanch and pound four ounces of half a dozen bitter almonds. Mix them with six table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, and a quarter of a pound of sweet butter. Beat all well together, then add the yolks of six and the whites of three eggs, and a wine-plassful of brandy. When well beaten, pour the mixture into a pie-dish over a layer, about an inch thick, of apricot or any other jam. Bake in a good oven. If preferred, the dish may be lined with a good puff paste ‘before laying in the: jam. Time to bake, one hour and a-half. Probable cost, 2s: Sufficient for four or five persons. College Puddings, Baked (another way).—These puddings, which are generally served fried, as in a former recipe, are much nicer baked. "When this is done, they should have another egg, or a table-spoonful of milk added to make them lighter. . Pour the mixture into well-buttered cups, and bake in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes. Before serving, turn the puddings out of the cups, and sift a little pounded sugar overthem. Probable cost, 1s. 1d. Sufficient for eight puddings. Collier’s Roast.—The collier’s roast is the name given in Scotland to a leg of mutton which has been put into pickle (sce Pickle) for a few days before it is roasted. It is then cooked as usual, carrots and turnips being sent to table with it. Collops, Beef. — Take two pounds of tender beef steak, and cut it into rounds about three inches wide and three-quarters of an inch thick. Dredge a little flour over these, and fry them in hot butter or dripping till they are lightly browned on both sides. Put them into a stowpan with a pint of.good gravy, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a. tea-spoonful of white pepper, a tea-spoonful of capers bruised, a ‘tea-spoonful of walnut ketchup, and two pickled gherkins thinly sliced. Simmer gently for ten or twelve minutes,.and send to table as hot as possible. Probable cost, beef, 1s. 1d. per pound. Sufficient for four persons. ' Collops, Beef, with Onions.—Prepare the meat as in the last recipe. Dredge the collops with flour, and put them, in the frying. pan with six or eight large onions cut into rounds, and four ounces of butter, lard, or drip. ping. Pepper them, and when they are browned, cover the pan closely. - Before serving, take ‘out the meat, put it on a hot dish, add -half a cupful of boiling water, and a table-spoonful of ketchup to the onions. Boil up, and '‘-pour the sauce round the meat. ‘Time, twenty to thirty minutes, or until the onions are tender. ‘Pro- bable cost, beef, 1s. 1d. per pound. Sufficient for four persons. ~ : Collops, Minced, Scotch.—Mince beef very small, salt and pepper it, and put it, while raw, into small jars, and pour over it some clarified butter. When wanted for use, put the clarified butter into a frying-pan, slice some onions into the pan, and. fry them; add a little | water, and put in the minced beef. Simmer it sweet and / gently, and in a few minutes it will be fit. to serve. Probable cost of beef, 1s. per. pound. Sufficient, two pounds make a good dish. Collops, Savoury, Minced.—Put two ounces of fresh butter into a stewpan, and mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with it; keep stirring the paste till it is lightly browned, then add a little pepper and salt, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a tea-spoonful of savoury herbs, also half a pint of boiling stock or water. When smooth and thick stir'in one pound of steak finely minced. Move it about with a fork, to prevent its getting into lumps, and when it is quite hot put the cover on the pan, draw it back, and let the collops simmer very gently for ten minutes; before serving, add 'the juice of a small lemon, or a table-spoonful of mush- room ketchup. Probable cost, 1s. 1d. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four persons. : Collops, Savoury (to imitate Game).— Prepare collops as ir. the-recipe for Collops, Beef. After they are browned, put.them into a saucepan, cover them with. good gravy, season rather lightly with salt and pepper, and adda little pounded mace. Thicken the gravy by putting with it a lump of butter rolled in flour, and simmer the collops gently for three-quarters of an hour. Before serving, take out the meat, put it on a hot dish, and pour a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup and a wine-glass of port to the gravy. Let it boil, then pour it. over the meat. Send red currant jelly to table with the meat. Probabie cost, 1s. ld. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four persons. Collaps, Scotch.—Cold meat_as well fresh meat may be used for collops. Cut some pieces from the fillet of veal about two inches wide and half an inch thick, and sprinkle over them some salt, white pepper, and pounded mace. Fry them in some hot butter or lard till they aro lightly browned, then lay them in a stew- pan, dredge some flour thickly over them, and add as much good stock as will cover the veal. Put it on the fire, bring it to a boil, skim care- fully, and simmer it gently for three-quarters of an hour. Take out tho veal, lay it on a hot dish, add to the gravy the juice of a lemon, a table- spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a glass of claret, and two or three grains of cayenno; boil the sauce once more, pour it over the meat, and ( 152 ) CON coL serve. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient, two pounds for five persons. Collops, Scotch, White.—Prepare the veal as in the last recipe. Fry it in bacon-fat if it can be had, if not, in butter, lard, or good dripping. When lightly browned, put it into a stewpan, cover it with good veal stock, thicken this with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and add a cupful of cream and a glass of sherry. Simmer gently for twenty minutes in the gravy. Place the meat on a hot dish, and pour the gravy over it. Time, five minutes to fry the collops. Sufficient, two pounds for five persons. Pro- bable cost, 10d., exclusive of the cold meat. Colouring.—Brown.—It is a very usual practice with common cooks to make the brown colouring as it is wanted by burning a little sugar in an iron spoon, and stirring it into the soup or sauce. By this means the flavour is almost sure to be spoilt. Much the better plan is to make a little browning, and keep it stored for use. It will keep for years. Proceed as follows:—Crush a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar to powder, put it into a saucepan with a table-spoonful of water, and stir it unceasingly over a gentle fire, with a wooden spoon, until it begins to acquire a little colour. Draw it back and bake it very slowly, still stirring it, until it is almost black, without being in the least burnt. It will take about half an hour. Pour a, quart of water over it, let it boil for a few minutes until the sugar is quite dissolved, pour it out, and when cold strain it into a bottle, and store it for use. A table-spoonful of this browning will colour half a pint of liquid, and there will be no danger of an unpleasant taste being given to the sauce, &c. The addi- tion of a little claret or mushroom ketchup will often impart as much colouring to sauces as is required. When it is wished to thicken the sauce as well as colour it brown thickening should be used. Green.—Pound some young spinach or beet-leaves. Press out the juice and put it in a cup. Place this cup in a saucepan of boiling water and let it simmer gently, to take off the raw taste of the juice. Before using it, mix it with a little finely-sifted sugar. &ed.—Two or three drops of cochineal will zmpart a beautiful red or pink colouring. It can be made at home, and will not cost nearly so much as if bought at the shops. White.— Use pounded almonds, arrowroot, or cream. Yellow.—For a clear yellow, dissolve orange or lemon jelly. For an opaque, pound the yolks of eggs, and mix it with the lquid or, adda little saffron ; or, soak the flowers of the crocus, which will not taste. Compétes, Syrup for.—The quantity of sugar used for the syrup in compétes must depend upon the acidity of the fruit. For rhubarb, green gooseberries, early apples, &c., we should recommend ten ounces of loaf sugar to be boiled gently with half a pint of water for ten minutes. One pound of fruit must then be put in and boiled gently until it is sufficiently cooked. Lift the fruit into a deep glass dish, pour the syrup round it, and serve. For apricots, plums, strawberries, and cherries, six ounces of sugar will be sufficient. Exact directions can scarcely be given, as the degree of ripeness which the fruit has attained, and the state of the weather when it was gathered, must be considered in deciding what quantity of sugar should be used; but we can assure those who have not been accustomed to serve fruit in this way that it is most delicious and wholesome. The flavour of the fruit is pre- served, and a compdéte is always an elegant and agréeable addition to the table. Generally speaking, the larger the amount of sugar used the clearer will be the syrup, and the longer it will keep. It should be broken into lumps, not crushed to powder. - Conger Hel,—The conger is comparatively little used in cookery, though its flesh is whole- some and nourishing, and by no means un- palatable. When caught, itis generally wasted, an unreasonable prejudice existing against it. It may be cooked in several ways, and tho recipes which were given for cod may be used. for it. The head and tail are the best for soup, and the middle may be boiled, stewed, cut into slices and baked, fried, or made into pies. Conger Hel, Baked.—Take a piece of conger eel weighing about two pounds, wash it thoroughly, and stuff it with a good force- meat made with four parts bread-crumbs, and one chopped parsley, a pinch of thyme, a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace, a little butter, and the yolk of an egg. Bind the fish securely with string or tape, and put it into a deep dish half filled with water. Dredge flour plentifully over it, place little lumps of butter on the top, and bake it in a good oven. Baste it often. When sufficiently cooked, take it out, thicken. the gravy, and make it into any sauce you may like. Stewed tomatoes are very good served with it. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 3d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Conger Eel, Boiled.—Take a piece about twelve inches long from the thick part of a fine conger, tie it round with string, and put it into a stewpan with sufficient boiling water to cover it, and two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, a wreakfast-cupful of vinegar, a bunch of savoury herbs, and about two ounces of butter or dripping. Let it boil, then draw it to the side of the fire, and.let it simmer gently for half an hour. Drain, and serve on a hot napkin. Send melted butter to table with it. Time, forty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. per pound. Sufficient for six persons. i Conger Eel, Fried.—Cleanse the fish thoroughly. Cut it into thick slices, and brush each slice over with beaten egg, then strew over them finely-grated bread-crumbs. Fry them in plenty of hot lard or dripping till they are brightly browned on both sides, and the flesh leaves the bone easily. When sufficiently cooked, lay them on blotting-paper to take off the fat; put them on a hot dish, squeeze the Juice of a lemon over them, and serve with shrimp, oyster, tomato, or anchovy sauce. Time to fry, about twenty minutes. Probable . cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. Conger Eel Pie.—Remove the skin and bone from two pounds of the middle of a conger. CON ( 153 ) COR Cut it into pieces one inch and a half square, strew salt, pepper, and pounded mace rather plentifully over each piece, and put a layer at the bottom of a deep pie-dish. Fill the dish with alternate layers of oysters and pieces of fish. The tinned oysters will answer excellently for this purpose. Pour over it some strong gravy made of the bones of the fish and the liquor of the oysters boiled in good stock, cover with a good crust, and bake in w moderate oven. Time to bake, one hour and a quarter. Probable cost : conger, 3d. to 6d. per pound ; oysters, 7d. per tin. Sufficient, a pie made with two pounds of conger and a tin of oysters, for six persons. Conger Hel Pie (another way).—This fish is often plentiful and cheap, particularly in the western counties. In Cornwall, conger eel pie is one of the most approved of fish pies. Take a small conger eel, cut it into pieces of two inches in length. Roll them in flour, and . place them in a pie-dish, seasoning each layer with salt, pepper, allspice, chopped parsley, and thyme. Pour in a pint of water and a table-spoonful of vinegar, and. bake with a common crust in a moderate oven. It is good hot or cold. Time, one hour and a half. Conger Eel, Roasted.—Take a piece from the middle of a large conger eel, about twelve inches in length, clean it without open- ing. Make a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, shred suet, parsley, lemon-thyme, pepper, and salt; bind with an egg and stuff the eel full, securing both ends with a buttered paper. Dredge it with . flour, and baste frequently ; throw a tumbler of cider into the dripping-pan, or, if the cider is not to be had, a small quantity of vinegar. When half done, change the end by which it hangs, and continue to baste till quite done. It may be baked in an oven, but is more liable in that case to be dry and over-done. Time, about one hour. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Conger Eel Soup.—Put a bunch of savoury herbs into a saucepan, with a large carrot sliced, two large onions sliced, and two bay-leaves. Fry them to a light brown, then add four quarts of water. Let it boil, skim it well, season it with one ounce of salt, and half an ounce of pepper, and put into it five pounds of the head and tail part of a conger’ eel. Simmer gently and continuously for two hours, strain the soup, and put with it a pint of green peas. A few minutes before it is served, put in a pint of new milk. Time, three hours. Probable cost conger, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five pints of soup. Conservative Pudding.—-Take two ounces each of ratafias and macaroons, and four ounces of sliced sponge-cake, put them into a basin, and pour over them half a pint of boiling cream. Let them soak for half an hour, then beat them well with a fork, adding gradually the yolks of six eggs well beaten, a wine-glassful of brandy, and a table-spoonful of sifted sugar. Butter a plain mould, orna~- ment it with dried cherries, or. any tasteful device, pour in the mixture, cover it with but- tered writing paper, tie it in a cloth, and steam it until it is firm in the centre. Turn it out upon a hot dish, and pour round, not on it, a sauce made by boiling a quarter of a pound of sugar and a bay-leaf in a cupful of water for ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four persons. Cool Cup, A.—Rub five ounces of loaf sugar upon the rind of'a large, fresh lemon. Pour over it # bottle of cider, the juice of the lemon, half a nutmeg grated, and a tumblerful of sherry. Stir it until the sugar is dissolved, and put on it a sprig of borage, thyme, or mint. It will be better if placed on ice for a little while. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the cider and sherry. Sufficient for a one-quart cup. Cool Cup (another way).—Put a slice of hot toast, and a quarter of apound of sugar into a. large tankard. Pour over these three table- spoonfuls of brandy, six of sherry, and a pint of good ale. Lay a sprig of balm or borage on the top, and let the liquid stand for a little while. Time to stand, half an hour. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the liquids. Sufficient for a quart cup. Cool Cup (another way).—Pare and core three large apples, slice them, and also three: large lemons, and lay them in a deep basin in alternate layers, with sugar strewn over each layer. Pour over them a bottle of claret, cover the basin, and let it stand for four hours. Strain. the liquid and serve it with a lump of ice in the cup. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the claret. “ Sufficient for a pint cup. Cool Cup (another way).—Pour a pint of claret and a tumblerful of water into a large cup. Mix with them two table-spoonfuls of | finely-sifted sugar, two drachms of powdered cinnamon, a quarter of asmall nutmeg grated, and the thin rind of half a small lemon. Puta sprig of borage, or a little cucumber-rind with it for two or three minutes before using. Sufficient for a quart cup. Probable cost, 3d., exclusive of the claret. Cool Cup (another way.)—Take three- parts of good lemonade and one of .sherry or Madeira, add three or four lumps of ice, and serve. Coratch.—Put into a pint of vinegar two shallots, and a clove of garlic sliced, two ounces of chillies, cut, a wine-glassful of soy, and the same of walnut ketchup; infuse three weeks in a bottle closely corked, and filter for use. ‘The liquid will be improved by keeping.. Time, three weeks to infuse. Sufficient, a tea- spoonful or more will flavour half a pint of sauce. Probable cost, 1s. per pint. Corncrakes, To Roast.—Truss these birds in the same way as grouse. Dredge a little flour over, and fasten a slice of fat bacon on the breasts. Put them down to a clear fire, baste them well, and roast them twenty-five or thirty minutes. Five minutes before they are taken down, remove the bacon, so that the breast may brown. Send them to table with a little brown gravy in the dish, and bread sauce ina tureen. Probable cost, uncertain. Four for a dish. COR ( 154 ) COR *Corn-flour (for Children)—To two tea- spoonfuls of corn-flour, mixed with two table- spoonfuls of cold water, add half a pint of boil-: ing milk; boil for eight minutes, and sweeten: slightly. It should be, when warm, about the thickness of cream. For children of a year old and upwards, it may be prepared wholly with milk, and thicker. For children’s diet it is important that good sweet milk should be used. Corn-flour Blancmange.—Mix very smoothly four ounces of corn-flour with a little cold milk, pour over it a quart of boiling’ milk, return it to the saucepan, and stir it constantly. Let it remain on the fire four minutes after it comes to a boil. Sweeten and flavour it. Pour it into a mould, and when cold turn it out. Serve with it a compote of any kind of fruit. Time, twenty, minutes. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the fruit. Corn-flour Cream.—To two ounces of corn-flour add one pint of milk, two ounces of pounded sugdt, and a few drops of vanilla. Stir the whole over the fire for ten minutes, and. pour it. into custard-cups; strew ratafias over the surface, and serve hot. : ‘Corn-flour Custard Pudding.—Mix three ounces of corn-flour with one quart of sweet milk, one or two eggs well beaten, a little butter, and four table-spoonfuls of. sugar. Flavour to taste, and boil for eight minutes. Pour it into a pie-dish, and brown it before the fire. This is an excellent dish. Corn-flour Fruit Pie.-—Bake or stew any kind of fruit with sugar. Put it into a pie-dish, and pour over it corn-flour boiled with milk, in the proportion of four ounces of flour to one quart of milk. Brown before the fire. This makes a covering lighter and more whole- some than the ordinary pie-crust. Corn-flour Fruit Pudding.— Prepare a batter as for corn-flour blanemange, boil it until smooth, and let it go cold. Fill a dish with about two pounds: of any kind of good Tipe fruit; stew, these till soft with sugar, and when cold place. the corn-flour in the middle of a dish, and pour the fruit over and round it. Peeled and cored apples or pears may be used for the same purpose. eae Corn-flour Jelly.—Mix in a tumbler a tea-spoonful of corn-flour with a little cold water. Pour upon it sufficient boiling water to form a clear jelly, stirring it well during the time it is being poured on; ‘then add a glass of sherry. : Corn-flour Omelet.—Beat up two eggs, and mix them with one table-spoonful of corn- flour, and a tea-cupful of milk. Add a little sugar, and salt and pepper, if desired. Put the whole into an omelet-pan, previously well heated and covered with melted butter, and move the pan constantly over the fire. Turn the omelet several times, and double it over. Cook it until it is lightly browned. Corn-flour Pudding.—Boil a pint of milk with a little lemon-rind; pour it upon three dessert-spoonfuls of corn-flour mixed smoothly with a little cold milk or water, add a well-beaten egg, and sweeten according, to taste. - Pour the mixture into a well-buttered pie-dish, and bake it from .twenty to thirty, minutes. Probable cost,.5d:, Sufficient.. for. three persons. © ‘ Corn-flour Pudding, Baked.—Add three and a half ounces of’ corn-flour:to one quart of milk; ‘boil for eight-minutes, stirring it briskly all the time. Allow it to cool, and then mix thotoughly with it two eggs well beaten, and three table-spoonfuls of sugar. Flavour to taste, and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven, or brown it before the fire. Corn-flour Souffié Pudding.—Put six ounces of corn-flour into a saucepan, with eight ounces of pounded sugar, and mix both together with a quart of milk. Add four ounces of fresh: butter, a pinch of salt, and a few drops of essence of vanilla. Stir briskly until it boils, and‘ then work in vigorously the beaten yolks of six eggs. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, and incorporate them lightly with the batter, which must'then be potred into a slightly-buttered pie-dish, and baked in a moderate oven for about half an hour. Sprinkle . the top with powdered sugar, and send to table quite hot. Corn-flour Sponge Cake. — Beat a | quarter of a pound of butter to cream. | Add half a pound of white sugar, half a pound. of corn-flour, a dessert-spoonful of baking powder, and four eggs. Bake in a quick oven. v4 Corn-meal Cake.—Mix together a pint of Indian meal, a tea-cupful of sour cream, the same quantity of fresh milk, half a cupful of treacle, one egg, a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and as much cinnamon, nutmeg, or other spice as may be required to flavour the cake. Butter a tin, pour the mixture into it, and bake it in a moderate oven for from one hour to one hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for a good-sized cake. : Corn-meal Pudding.—This dish is, like pease pudding, intended to be eaten with hot meat and gravy. It is made by stirring Indian meal into boiling water until itis ds thick and smooth as batter. It must be beaten well over a slow fire for a few minutes, and when it bubbles up it isdone enough. Time, twenty’ minutes. : Corn Puddings, American.—Put into a cee one pint of milk, the thin. rind of half a lemon, and a table-spoonful of sugar; let it boil, and stir into it by degrees four table-spoonfuls of Indian flour. Keep on stirring it for ten minutes or more, then turn it out and let it cool. When quite cold, add three well-beaten eggs, put the batter into buttered cups, allow room for rising, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 8d.. Corporation Cakes.—Mix two table- spoonfuls: of finely-sifted sugar, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, and a pinch of salt, with half a pound .of flour. Add one ounce of candied lemon cut: into thin strips, and two ounces of COR ( 155 ) cou dried currants. "When the ingredients are well mixed, work them into a stiff paste with six ounces of clarified fat, two eggs, andia table- spoonful of brandy. Drop the mixture in small rocky lumps upon a well-buttered. tin, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 1d. each, Suffi- cient for one dozen cakes. . Corstorphine Cream,.—tThis is an old- fashioned cooling drink. It is mado by mixing equal quantities of milk obtained on two suc- ceeding days, letting it stand twelve hours, then adding a little new milk, and beating all well together with sugar. . Cottage Bread Pudding. —Take, any crusts of bread that may have been left, and be sure that they are perfectly clean. Put them into a saucepan with a pint and a half of milk to one pound of bread. Simmer very gently, and when the: bread is quite soft, take it from the fire and beat it well with a fork. Add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, a couple of ounces of finely-shred ‘suet, or a piece of sweet dripping the size of a large egg, three eggs well beaten, and a handful of picked currants. Put the mixture into a well-buttered pie-dish, and bake three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for six persons., Probable cost, 6d. Cottage Plum Pudding.—Shred very finely three ounces of best beef suet ; add three ounces of flour, one tea-spoonful of baking- powder, three ounces of bread-crumbs, two ounces of raisins, two ounces of ‘currants, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, a tea-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind, and two well-beaten eggs. Tie the mixture in a floured cloth, and boil it for.from two hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufii- cient for a small family. Cottage Plum Pudding (another way). —Mix thoroughly one pint of flour, half a pint of sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, two 'tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar, one tea- spoonful of soda, two ounces of currants, and two ounces of stoned raisins. Work the ingre- dients into a light paste with two well-beaten eges and half'a pint of milk. Pour the pudding into a well-buttered mould, and bake it in a brisk oven. This pudding may be eaten cold as plain cake. ‘Time to bake, about three- quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Cottage Potato Pudding.—Peel and boil two pounds of potatoes. Mash them, and beat them to a smooth paste, with a brealfast- cupful of milk, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and two well-beaten eggs. Add a handful of stoned and picked raisins, put the mixture into a well-greased pie-dish, and bake it for nearly an hour. ' If the milk is left out, ‘and a quarter of a pound of butter substituted, it will make a nice cake. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost: pudding, 5d.; cake, 9d.. Cottage Pudding.—(To use up crusts of ‘bread).—Pour a kettleful of boiling water upon some pieces of stale bread, let them soak till quite soft, drain off the water, for three quarts. ' bottom of a deep stone jar. I ' slice of bacon, ,two large onions, two large, and beat them well with a fork. Take out any hard lumps that will not soften, and add a large lump of' butter or dripping, or some finely-shred suet, some ‘moist-sugar, a handful of currants, and a little grated nutmeg. Put the mixture into a well-buttered pie-dish, and bake in a good'oven.' A little jam may‘ be eaten with this pudding, which is generally .a favourite with children. Time to. bake, one hour and a half or two hours. Probable cost, 2d. or 3d., exclusive of the stale bread: - Cottage Soup.—Put three pounds of bones, broken into small pieces, into a stewpan,. with a heaped table-spoonful of salt, a bunch .of savoury herbs, a pennyworth of bruised celery-. seed tied in ‘a muslin bag, or two or three of the outer sticks of a head of celery, and four quarts of cold water. When the liquid boils, skim it, draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer very gently but: continuously for three or four hours. Strain. it, and put the fat into a frying-pan, with two onions sliced, and a carrot and turnip cut into dice.-- Fry these till lightly browned, put them with the soup, and boil it up again with a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Thicken.it with four ounces of either oatmeal or prepared barley, taking care to mix them smoothly with a little cold water before. putting them with the rest of the soup. ‘Wash half a pound of rice, put it with the soup, ‘boil it until: tender, and serve. A little powdered mint should be sent to table with the soup, to, be used or not, according to taste. ‘Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient, for three quarts. SS od Cottage Soup (another way).—Put a large lump of dripping the size of a turkey’s egg into a stewpan, with half a pound of fresh beef cut into .small pieces, two large: turnips,. two large. carrots, and two leeks, all finely sliced. Place them over a clear fire, and move them about for eight or ten minutes, until half cooked. Add, a little at a time, two cupfuls.of cold water and half a pound of rice. Boil. for five or six minutes, then add four quarts of hot water, two table-spoonfuls of salt, and a desgert~ spoonful of pepper. Boil once more, skim the soup well, then draw it to the side of, the fire, and simmer it gently but continuously for three hours: Serve a little powdered mint with it, to be used or not, according to taste. Sufficient . Probable cost, 4d. per quart. Cottage Soup, Baked.—Take one pint of dried peas, wash them well, and leave them all night in a quart of water.. Cut half a pound of fresh meat into slices, and lay them at the Put over them a carrots sliced, two or three sticks of celery, two table-spoonfuls of salt, one dessert-spoonful of, pepper, the soaked peas, and last, four quarts of cold spring water. Cover the jar closely, and put it in a hot oven for four ,hours, and. serve with toasted sippots. Sufficient for three quarts of soup. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Counsellor’s Pudding.—Butter the in- side of a mould thickly; stick the inside all over. cou ( 156) COW as regularly as possible with dried cherries or raisins halved and stoned; at the bottom, place in order a few macaroons and ratafias. Then line the sides with slices of sponge-cake, and fill the remaining space three-quarters full with sponge- cake, sponge biscuits, and bits of rich plum cake. If the latter are not at hand, a few washed currants may be sprinkled amongst the cakes. Mix together, half milk half eggs, as much as will soak the cake and fill the mould; flavour with orange-flower water and sugar, or a glass of liquor, as noyeau, &c. When the soaking is complete and the mould quite full, cover the top with buttered paper, tie it down closely with a cloth, and boil it for an hour. When turned out of the mould upon a dish, pour round the pudding a sauce made of rich melted butter, sweetened with sugar, coloured pink with fruit syrup, and flavoured with u glass of the same liquor that was used for the pudding. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for a moderate-sized mould. Court Bouillon (with wine).—Take one part of vinegar, one of red wine, and four of water ; put them into a saucepan, and for every three quarts of liquid allow half an ounce of pepper, one ounce of salt, a bunch of savoury herbs, two bay-leaves, one sliced onion, and one sliced carrot. Simmer for an hour, strain the liquid, and it- will be ready for use. © Court bouillon is used to boil fresh-water fish, to take off its insipidity. The quantity must depend upon the size of the fish, which ought to be well covered. When it is once made, however, it will keep for a long time if it is boiled up every three days, and diluted every time with one breakfast-cupful of water. If this is not done, it will become too strong and concen- trated. Oil and vinegar is the only sauce that is eaten with fish boiled in court bouillon, and served cold. The wine may be omitted.: Pro- bable cost, exclusive of the wine, 6d. Suffi- cient for two quarts and a half. Cow-heel (au naturel).—This dish, which. is delicious as well as nourishing when properly. cooked, may be served in several different ways. It should first of all be thoroughly scalded and cleansed, and the fat between the claws removed. This is often already done when the heel is bought at a tripe shop. (Ask for one which has been scalded, not boiled, or nearly all the nourishment will be gone from it.) Cut a cow- heel into four parts, and put them into a sauce- pan, cover them with cold water, and simmer them gently for four hours; take them up, remove the bones, thicken the gravy with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and put with it a table- spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley, and the juice of half a lemon. Season with salt and pepper, boil altogether again for a few minutes, and serve hot. If there is more liquid than will be required for sauce, it should be preserved, and will be found excellent for sauces and soups. Probable cost of cow-heel, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one heel for a small family. Cow-heel for Invalids.—Take a fresh cow-heel, cleanse and scald it, and remove the fat from between the claws. Do not have one already boiled at the tripe shop, as waa said in the last recipe, or it will not be so nourishing. Put it into a saucepan with one pint and a half of cold water, and add a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of fresh mustard, a salt-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a pinch of pepper. Bring it slowly to a boil, skim it well, and simmer it gently for four hours. Just before serving, thicken the gravy with a tea-spoonful of arrowroot mixed smoothly with a little cold water; add a wine-glassful of sherry, and serve immediately. Probable cost, 4d to 8d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Cow-heel, Fried.—Prepare a cow-heel as before; simmer it gently for three hours, drain it, remove the bones, and cut it into con- venient-sized pieces, about one inch and a half long. Mix some bread-crumbs with a little chopped parsley, salt, cayenne, and finely-shred lemon-rind. Dip the pieces in beaten egg, then in the bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot butter or dripping till brightly browned. Put them on a hot dish, and pour over them some good melted butter flavoured with lemon-juice. Probable cost of cow-heel, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one heel for two or three persons. Cow-heel, Fried with Onions.—Boil a cow-heel as in the last recipe; take it up, re- move the bones, and put the meat away to get cold; then cut it into nice pieces, about a quarter of an inch in thickness and one inch and a half square. Cut about the same number of slices of Spanish onion, fry these and keep them hot. Dip the slices of heel in frying batter, and fry them in plenty of boiling fat till brightly browned. Serve very hot. The onions must be turned about until they are sufficiently cooked. They will require a few minutes more than the meat. Time : three hours to boil the heel; about twenty minutes to fry it and the onions. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Suffi- cient for two or three persons. Cow-heel Stock for Jelly.—Cow-heels may be substituted for calfi’s feet in making stock for jelly. It is best to stew the heels the day before you want to make the jelly, so that it may get cold, and be more thoroughly freed from fat and sediment. Buy two heels that. have been well cleansed and scalded, but not boiled. Divide them into four, and pour over them three quarts of cold water, bring them slowly to a boil, skim the liquid carefully, and simmer it gently for seven hours, or until it is reduced to three pints. After this, proceed exactly as with stock made from calf’s feet. If there is any doubt about the firmness of the jelly, an ounce of isinglass may be added. Cow-heels are cheaper than calf’s feet, and quite as nourishing, though perhaps a trifle stronger in flavour. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. a Sufficient, two heels for three pints of stock. Cowslip Wine.—Allow three pounds of loaf sugar, the rind of an orange and a lemon, and the strained juice of a lemon to every gallon of water. Boil the sugar and water together for half an hour. Skim it carefully, then pour it over the rind and juice. Let it CRA ( 157 ) CRA stand until new-milk warm, add four quarts of cowslip pips or flowers, and to every six quarts of liquid put three large table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast, spread on toast. On the follow- ing day put the wine into a cask, which must be closely stopped. It will be fit to bottle or drink from the cask in seven weeks. Twenty- four or forty-eight hours to ferment; seven weeks to remain in the cask. Probable cost, cowslips to be gathered in the meadows. Crab Apples, Siberian (to preserve whole).—Rub the crabs with a piece of flannel till they are quite clean, but do not break the skin. Prick each one with a needle to prevent its‘bursting with the heat of the syrup. Simmer half a dozen cloves and some whole ginger in a breakfast-cupful of water till the flavour is ex- tracted. Strain the liquid, and boil it for ten minutes with one pound of loaf sugar. Skim it carefully, then put with it a pint of crabs. Let them just boil up, then take off till cold, and repeat this three times. If then they look quite clear they are done enough, if not, boil them once more. Lift the crabs into a jar. Pour the syrup when cold over the fruit, and tie the jar down closely. Time, two or three hours. They are seldom offered for sale. Suffi- cient, one pound of fresh fruit for one pint of preserved fruit Crab Apples, Siberian, Jelly.—The little red Siberian crabs make delicious and beautiful jelly. They should be made in the same way as apple jelly (see Apple Jelly). Crab, Boiled.—Put some water into a saucepan, and to every quart of water add. a table-spoonful of salt. When it boils, put in the crab, previously taking the precaution to tie its claws. Boil briskly for twenty minutes, or longer if the crab is large. When taken out, rub a little sweet-oil on the shell. The flavour of crabs is considered better when they are put into boiling water, besides which, they are sooner killed when the boiling-point has been reached. Probable cost of crabs, from 10d. to 3s. 6d., depending upon the size. Sufficient, a medium-sized crab, for three persons. Crab Butter.—Pick the meat from the claws of a large crab. Bruise it well in a mortar, and mix it with a little fresh butter. Put the mixture. into a saucepan with a table- spoonful of water, and let it simmer, gently stirring it all the time. When it is on the point of boiling, take it from the fire and press it through a sieve into a basin, which must stand in cold water until the butter is cold. Time, a few minutes to simmer. Probable cost, crabs from 10d. to 3s. 6d., depending upon the size. Sufficient, the flesh from two large claws, for hadf a pound of butter. Suitable for a breakfast relish. Crab Butter Sauce.—Take half a pint of good melted butter, and stir into it while hot a piece of butter about the size of an egg, prepared as in the last recipe. Mix well together, and serve. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, crabs from 10d. to 3g. 6d. each. Sufficient for a small dish of fish. ; Crab, Curried.—Pound a clove of garlic ina mortar, with the white part of half a small cocoa-nut, a table-spoonful of curry-powder, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a piece of butter about the size of a walnut. When these are beaten to a paste, mix them very smoothly over a gentle fire with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, taking especial care that the saucepan is delicately clean. Add the meat contained in a good-sized crab, and gradually a small cupful of cream. A pound of French beans, cut into thin strips and simmered with the crab, is an im- provement to this dish. Just before serving, squeeze over it the juice of alemon. Serve as usual with rice round the dish. Lobster may be used instead of crab.. Time to simmer, ten minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Crab, Hot or Buttered.—Pick the meat from the shell of a fine crab, and mix it witha little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, a few bread-crumbs, a spoontul or two of salad-oil or good cream, and vinegar. Be careful to leave out the part near the head, which is not fit to be eaten. Fill the shell with the mixture, strew finely-grated bread-crumbs over it, and heat it in the oven or before the fire. Garnish the dish with parsley, and send toasted bread to table with it. Time to prepare, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of crabs, from 10d. to 3s. 6d. each. Sufficient, a medium-sized crab, for three or four persons. Crab, Minced.—Pick out the meat from a medium-sized crab, as in the last recipe, being careful to leave out the unwholesome part near the head. Chop it, and a small-boned anchovy, together, and put them into a saucepan with a little salt and cayenne, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, two of sherry, a lump of butter about the size of a walnut, and two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs. Simmer gently for a few minutes. Then draw the saucepan back, and add very gradually the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley. Probable cost, from 1s. to 3s., according to size. Sufficient for three or four persons. Crab, Mock.—Take a pound of Gloucester or Cheshire cheese, and pound it in a mortar with two spoonfuls of vinegar, three ‘of salad- oil, one of mixed mustard, and salt and cayenne to taste. When itis well pounded, mix with it half a pound of potted shrimps. It may be served in a crab-shell, and garnished with parsley. Time, about twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Crab, Mock (another way).—The imita- tion crab may be prepared as above, and the shrimps omitted. The flavour is not at all unlike that of crab, and is arelishing addition to bread and butter. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 1s. 1d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Crab, Potted.—Pick the meat from the shell and claws of a freshly-boiled crab. Pound it in a mortar with salt, cayenne, an pounded mace. Press it into small jars, cover it with butter, and bake it in a moderate oven for half an hour. When cold, pour fresniv-clari- fied butter over it, and set it aside to get cold. CRA ( 158 ) CRA The remains of a:crab that has been partly eaten may be used in this way, but it should be baked on the day on which it was opened. Probable cost, 6d. fora two-ounce jar. Suffi- cient for two persons. Crab Salad.—Crack the large claws of a crab and pick out the white meat in as large pieces as possible. Lay the contents of the carapace in the middle of a large dish; on that put the pickings from the breast, and on the top the pieces from the claws. Surround the pile witha. small quantity of mixed salad, quartered lettuce-hearts, blanched endive, or watercresses. Pour a. little mayonnaise or salad-dressing over the whole, and.garnish the dish with the small claws and a little green parsley. The four black tips of the shells’ of the large claws, which children call soldiers, may be placed at the four corners. Be careful that the mixed salad is thoroughly dry. Time to prepare, three-quarters of an hour. Pro- bable .cost, crabs from 10d. to 3s. 6d. Suffi- cient, a medium-sized crab, for four persons. ° Crab Sauce.—Mix a dessert-spoonful of flour very’ smoothly with a little cold water, and pour upon it a.tea-cupful of boiling water and a tea-cupful of new milk, also boiling. Add three ounces of fresh butter, half a tea-spoonful of salt, the same of pepper, and a’ quarter of anutmeg, grated. Put all together on the fire, and stir the sauce constantly till it boils. Now add the flesh from the claws and body of a medium-sized crab, torn into small pieces with ‘two forks. Let the sauce get quite hot; but it must not boil again after the crab is added, or the flavour will be lost. Time, half an hour. Probable cost of crabs, from 10d. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for a tureen. Crab, Sealloped.—Prepare the,.crab. as for Minced ,Crab;.omitting the wine and eggs, Clean out the.large. round shell of the crab, fill it with the mixture, and put what is left into . scallop-shells. Place them in a moderately hot oven or before a clear fire. When hot through and slightly browned, take them up, put them on 4 dish covered ‘with a napkin, the crab-shell in'the middle and the scallop-shells round it, and garnish with parsley. Time, about half an hour. Probable cost of crab, from 10d.’ to 3s. 6d. Sufficient, a medium-sized crab, for four persons. ‘ ‘ , Crab Soup.—Wash half a pound of rice in one or two waters, then put it into a sauce- pan with a quart of milk or, white stock, an inch and a half of stick cinnamon, ‘a little salt and pepper, and a piece of butter the size of an egg. Let it simmer gently till quite tender, then mix with it the pounded yellow pith from the body of a freshly-boiled crab, and another quart of stock. Rub all through a sieve, then pour it into a stewpan with the flesh from the claws torn into flakes with two forks. Add a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies. Stir it again over the fire until thoroughly heated, but it must not boil after the crab'is added. Time, one hour and a half.’ Probable cost, 1g. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for five or six persons. i Poi Oy @rab, To Choose.—Choose a crab of the medium. size (neither very large nor very small), and heavy; the light.crabs are watery. The male crab is the best for the. table, and may be distinguished by possessing larger claws. When selecting a crab which has been cooked, it should be held by. its claws. and well shaken from side to: side. If,it is found to rattle; as if it contained water, the crab is of inferior. quality. The preference should be given to those that have a rough shell and claws. The joints‘of the claws,should’ be stiff, the shell'a bright red, and,the’ éyes bright’ and firm. : a Crab, .To. Dress.—Pick out all the meat from. two crabs, clear away the apron and the gills, ‘and, mix all: well. together with a wine- glassful of vinegar, the same of oil, a salt- spoonful of. salt, a table-spoonful-of, mustard, and.a tea-spoonful .of white, pepper;,,, Clean out one of the large shells; put .the mixture into it, and place it on a napkin with the small claws, and.a little parsley for garnish. Time to prepare, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of crabs, 10d. to.3s. 6d..each. Sufficient for five'or six persons. Py Bea @Cracknels.—Beat eight eggs with. eight table-spoonfuls of rose-water and a grated nut- meg. Mix with them over two quarts.of flour with sufficient cold water to make a stiff paste. Mix with the paste two pounds of butter, and make it into cracknels. Put them into.a pan of boiling water, and. boil them till they swim. Then -put.,them into cold , water, and, when they are hardened, dry them, and bake them on tin-plates in a moderate oven.. Time, about a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 5s. for this quantity. ae te ie CRADLE SPIT. “3 re Cradle Spit.—These spits are so made that they inclose any delicacy which has to be roasted ; and so no necessity arises for the ‘meat to be pierced. They are now almost superseded by the well-known bottle-jack. : Cranberries, To Pickle.—Gather the clusters’ béfore they are fully ripe. Put them into jars and cover them with strong salt and water. When fermentation begins, drain them, and add fresh, salt and,water. Keep the jars closely covered. They are ready for use in a week or two. Probable cost, fresh fruit, uncértain ; bottled, 8d. or 10d. per bottle. ' Cranberries, To Preserve.—Pick the cranberries (reject the injured berries),.and to every pound of fruit allow two pounds of sugar. Pour a cupful of water into the preserving-pan, CRA (159 ) CRA and place.in it alternate layers of cranberries and sugar. Boil gently and skim carefully. The preserve must be kept in closely-covered jars. Time, twenty minutes after it comes to a boil.'.. Sufficient, one pound of fruit for one potind of jam. Cranberry Gruel (Invatir Cooxery). —A few cranberries boiled in a little thin gruel, sweetened and flavoured with grated nutmeg, is a pleasant change for an invalid. Time, ten minutes. Sufficient, half a cupful of cranberries with their juice for half a pint of gruel. ‘Cranberry Jelly.—Make half a pint of very strong isinglass jelly, using nearly an ounce. of isinglass to the half pint of jelly. When it is clear, add a pint of cranberry- juice which has been drawn out over the fire and pressed from the fruit. Sweeten the liquid with half ‘a pound of best-loaf sugar. Add a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice and the whites and shells of three eggs.- ‘Simmer ‘the preparation gently without stirring it for a few minutes, let it stand to settle, strain it until clear, and pour it into a mould. Probable-cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for a quart-mould. Cranberry Tart.—Wash the cranberries in several waters... Allow a quarter of, a pound of sugar and two cloves to every pint of cran- berries, and partially cook them before putting them into the tart. Three-parts fill a pie-dish with the fruit, cover it with a good crust, and ake in a moderate oven. Before baking’ the tart, brush it all over with cold water, and sprinkle white sugar upon it,’ Sufficient, a pint of cranberries will make a tart. for three persons, —e Cranberry and Ground Rice Jelly. —Draw out a pint of cranberry-juice by put- ting the fruit and two or three cloves into a closely-covered jar, placing the jar in a sauce- pan of cold water on a .moderate fire, and simmering gently for about half an hour. Mix the juice with three table-spoonfuls of ground rice and two of sugar, boil it gently until it thickens, and pour it into a’ mould which has been immersed in cold water. When cold, turn it ont, and eat.it with a little cream. A quarter of an hour to boil with the rice. Sufficient for four persons. . Crappet Heads.—Thoroughly wash the heads of Haddocks. Skin them and take out the eyes. Fill the heads with a forcemeat made by mincing’ the boiled: and skinned roe with double its weight in bread-crumbs, a little finely- chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Bind this forcemeat together with yolk of egg. _ Fasten the, heads securely with strong thread, place them standing at the bottom of a buttered stewpan, pour fish-soup over them, and boil them gently. Before serving them remove the thread. ‘Time to boil,,. twenty minutes. Sufficient, one for each person. Crayfish in Jelly.—Crayfish are some- thing like lobsters, but smaller, and the flesh more delicate; indeed, they are more useful and delicious than any other shell-fish, and if every housekeeper were..to inquirefor, them two or three times at. the fishmonger's they would soon hecome. plentiful. ..There. are seyeral kinds; those are considered the best which are, reddish under the claws. To serve them in jelly, take a pint of fish for rather less than a pint of savoury jelly (see Aspic Jelly). Put a little jelly at the bottom of a mould; when it is cold, lay the crayfish. upon it, and repeat this until the materials are finished, but care must be taken. to let the jelly stiffen each time or all will sink to the bottom, and also to put the fish in with the back downwards, or they will be. wrong side up when ‘turned’ out. Garnish with parsley. This is a pretty dish. Time, thirty-six hours or more. Probable cost, crayfish, 2s. per quart. Sufficient for'a quart mould. . ,Grayash, Potted.—Boil the fish in water with plenty of salt in it. Pick out the meat and pound it well in.a mortar with a little grated nutmeg or pounded mace, pepper, salt, and a small quantity of fresh butter. An ounce of butter, may, be allowed to.a pint of crayfish. Put the paste into small jars, cover these with clarified butter, and cover closely. Time, ten minuteg to boil the crayfish. Probable .cost, 2s. per quart. Crayfish Soup, or Potage Bisque (delicious).—Take fifty crayfish (or one Hundred prawns, if crayfish cannot be obtained). Re- move the gut from the centre. fin of the tail, or it will make the soup bitter. Shell the fish and keep the tails whole. Pound the shells with four ounces of fresh butter, the crumb of a French roll, and three-anchovies, and put them in a stewpan with two quarts of fish stock, four ounces of washed rice, a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and.an onion stuck with three. cloves. Simmer for two hours. Put the pounded meat, but not the tails, into the soup, simmer again, then press the whole through a sieve. Make the soup hot before serving it, but do not let it boil. Five minutes before it.is taken from the fire put in the tails whole. Serve with toasted sippets. A tumbler of wine is an.improvement to this soup. _Pro- Dable cost, crayfish, 2s. per quart. Sufficient for six or eight persons. i a a Crayfish, To Dress.— Wash: the cray- fish and boil them in water with salt in it for ten minutes. They should be a bright red when done. Drain them. Pile them on a napkin, yramidiform, and garnish the dish with parsley. Probable.cost, 2s. per quart. ; Sufficient, a quart for a dish. ee hora ee Crayfish, To Keep Alive.—Crayfish may te rapt alive for two or three days if they are put into a bucket with a little drop of water, not quite an inch deep, at the bottom. The water must be changed every five or six hours. ayfish, To Stew.—Take a quart of eeaae remove the gut from the centre fin of the tail, and pick the meat from.the tails. Pound: the bodies, with four ounces of butter, and put them”into a stewpan with four pints of water, a spoonful of vinegar, half a nutmeg grated, and a little salt and pepper. Simmer gently for half an hout. . Strain, and. thicken the sauce «with a little flour. ..Add the tails. When they are hot, pour the whole over a slice CRE ( 160 ) CRE of toasted bread, and serve. Probable cost of crayfish, 2s. per quart. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Cream.—In the ordinary use of the word, cream is the name given to the yellow, delicious matter which rises to the surface of milk, and can be taken from it by skimming. In cookery, it applies to a number of rich dishes in which cream is the principal ingredient, and which are generally named after the flavouring material. Creams may be served either moulded or in cus- fard-glasses. When they are moulded, they should, if possible, be frozen, and if this cannot be done, they should be made stiff with isinglass. It is almost impossible to give minute directions as to the amount of isinglass to be used; the strength and quality differ so much, but it may be useful to remember that a larger proportion of isinglass will be needed for a large mould than a small one. Too much sugar and too much water both tend to prevent a mould from turning out in shape. The moulds for creams should always be oiled or immersed in cold water before they are used. In all the recipes where cream is required, and when it is not easily obtained, Swiss milk will be most useful. Though it is not agreeable to drink, it is excellent for cookery, and much less expensive than cream, and it must be remembered that whenever it is used, sugar may be entirely dis- pensed with. In calculating the cost of the various sweet dishes, cream is put down at 1s. 6d. per pint. If the Swiss or Aylesbury milk were used it would be much less. In the same way isinglass is reckoned at 1s. 2d. per ounce, which is the price of the best. If opaque gelatine be used, which, though not nearly so nice, is considered by many quite satisfactory, that may be obtained at 4d. per ounce. Cream (a la Parisienne).—Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in a pint and a half of milk; stir it well, add the juice of half a small lemon, two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, and half a pound of good jam—apricot is to be preferred —but none must be used which was not pressed through a sieve at the time it was made. The jam should be added gradually, and the cream stirred till it is nearly cold, or the jam will sink to the bottom. It will be richer and better if cream be entirely or partially substituted for milk, Time: an hour to prepare; twelve hours or more to stiffen. Probable cost, 1s. 10d. with milk, or 8s. 10d. with cream. Sufficient for a quart mould. Cream (a la Valois).—Cut three or four spongecakes into thin slices. Arrange them ‘on a dish with a little jam spread on each, and pour over them a wine-glassful of sherry. Dis- solve an ounce and a half of isinglass in one pint of boiling milk or cream. Sweeten it, and add a table-spoonful of brandy and the same of lemon-juice. Stir it: well, then pour a little into an oiled mould, and let it set; then place the sponge Biscuit on it. Fill the mould with the remainder of the cream, and when it is firm turn it on a glass dish. Time, an hour to pre- pare. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the mate | and brandy. Sufficient for a quart mould. Cream, Apple Pie.—Make an apple pie in the usual way. When it is sufficiently cooked, take it out of the oven, cut out the pastry from the middle, and, when cold, pour a, pint of good custard in its place. Put some ornaments of puff paste on the cover. Any kind of firm fruit may be sent to table in the same way. Cream Biscuits (flavoured with lemon). —Beat up the yolks of six eggs with half a pound of finely-sifted sugar. When well worked together, add six whites whipped toa froth, one gill of whipped cream, and the grated peel of a lemon. Bake in a moderate oven for ten to twelve minutes. These biscuits may be varied by substituting orange or vanilla for lemon. Probable cost, about 1s. 6d. Cream, Burnt.—Boil a pint of milk ina saucepan, with a stick of cinnamon, and a little candied lemon-peel cut into small pieces. Let it remain by the side of the fire to draw out the flavour, then strain it, and pour it over the yolks of three or four eggs well beaten. Put the mix- ture on the fire, and simmer the custard gently until it thickens. Pour it into a dish; when cold, cover the surface with powdered loaf sugar, and brown with a salamander. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a pint and a half of cream. Cream, Clotted.—Clotted cream, usually called Devonshire cream, is sold in the London markets in small square tins, and is exceedingly delicious when eaten with fresh fruit. It is made by putting the milk into a large metal pan, and allowing it to stand without moving it for some hours, twenty-four in winter, twelve in summer. The pan is then placed on a stove, or over a very slow fire, and some distance above it, so that it will heat without boiling or even simmering until a solid mass forms on the top. The pan should be then taken to the cool dairy, and the cream lifted off when cold. Time, the slower the better. Probable cost, 1s. for a small tin. Cream Cake. — Beat three ounces of butter to a cream, and mix with it, very smoothly, half a pound of fine flour, a small tea-spoonful of baking-powder, two table- spoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, the rind of a fresh lemon sliced as thinly as possible, and a cupful of thick cream beaten up with an egg. If the cream is a little turned it will not signify; indeed, it is rather an‘advantage than otherwise. It should make a /ight batter. Put it in a well- oiled dish, and bake in a moderate oven for rather more than half'an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for a small cake. _, Cream Crust.—Pastry is much improved if it is mixed with cream instead of water. Less butter will be required; indeed, for home consumption, it is very good without any at all. It should be baked as soon as made. ream Fritters.—Pound in a mortar half a dozen macaroons, two ounces of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and the rind, grated, of halfa lemon. Beat up two whites and half a dozen ‘yolks of eggs separately, with half a pint of cream, and stir all well together. a CRE ( 161 ) CRE Then fry the fritters a light brown, both sides alike, and serve them quickly, with wine sauce and fine powdered sugar. Probable cost, 1s. 9d. Time, four to five minutes to fry. Sufficient for five or six persons. Cream, Italian.—Dissolve one ounce of gelatine in a spoonful of milk. Make a custard with half a pint of milk, the yolks of three eggs, and a little sugar. Stir in a few drops of vanilla, and a spoontul of brandy for flavouring. When cool, add the dissolved gelatine, and half a pint of cream which has been whisked till itthickens. Putit into a well-oiled mould, and set it on ice, or, if preferred, serve in glasses. Double cream, or cream that has stood twenty- four hours, should be used for making creams. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for a large mould. Cream, Lemon.—Rub the thin rind of a lemon on a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and squeeze over it the juice of two lemons, and add two glasses of sherry. Let it stand for nearly an hour. Strain the syrup, and pour over it one pint and a half of cream which has been boiled and slightly cooled. Pour it rapidly from one jug to another, till it is thoroughly mixed, and a little curdled. Serve in custard- glasses. Probable cost, with cream, 2s. 8d., exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for ten or twelve glasses. Cream, Lemon (another way). — Put one pint of cream into a scrupulously clean saucepan, with four table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, the thin rind of a lemon, and simmer till pleasantly flavoured. Dis- solve an ounce of isinglass, and add this to the cream when cool, together with the yolks of two eggs well beaten. Strain the liquid into.a jug; put the jug into a saucepan of cold water, place this over a slow fire, and stir it constantly until it thickens; it must not boil. When nearly cold, add the juice of the lemon. Pour the cream backwards and for- wards for a few minutes until the juice is well mixed. Put it into a well-oiled mould, and keep in a cool place until set. Turn it out be- fore serving. Good cream may be made of Swiss milk; if this is used, the sugar must be omitted. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 10d. with cream, 1s. 8d. with Swiss milk. Sufficient for one pint and a half mould. Cream, Lemon (another way).—Peel three lemons, and put the thin rind with a quaxt of new milk into a saucepan. Add six or eight blanched almonds, half a pound of sugar, and an ounce and a half of gelatine which has been soaked in a little water. Let all boil gently for a few minutes, cool the milk a little, and mix it gradually with the yolks of six eggs. Pour it from one jug to another till nearly cold, then add the juice of the lemon, pour it again backwards and forwards, put it in a well-oiled mould, and let’ it stand in a cool place until ready to turn out. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for a large mould. Cream, Lemon (another way).—Peelthree lemons, and be careful to leave the white pith untouched. Soak the thin rind in a quart of milk, and leave it until pleasantly flavoured. Then add the yolks of six eggs well beaten, l1l—v.5. Turn out and serve. and a pint of water sweetened with a quarter of a pound of sugar. Strain the milk, and simmer it over a gentle fire until it becomes of the consistency of cream, and pour it into jelly-glasses. Time, ten minutes to simmer the cream. Probable cost, 1s, 2d. Sufficient for one dozen and a half glasses. Cream of Rice Soup.—This is made by thickening some good stock with ground rice. The rice should be: mixed smoothly with a little cold water, and added to the boiling stock. Cream, Orange.—Soak the thin rind of ' three oranges in a pint of milk till the flavour is extracted. Strain the milk, and boil it, then pour it boiling hot upon half an ounce of gelatine which has been soaked in cold water for an hour. Stir it until dissolved, sweeten it agreeably and keep stirring occasionally till cool, to prevent a scum forming. Pour the cream into a damp ‘mould and let it remain till set. Cut the soaked rind into thin strips’ Boil these in syrup to which the orange juice has been added, and pour both rind and syrup over the cream when it is turned out. Cream, Orange (another way),—Peel away the white part from the rinds of four: Seville oranges, and put them, with four ounces of loaf sugar and the clear juice, into a basin. Pour on the mixture a pint and a halt of boiling water. Let it stand for two hours, then strain, and mix the liquid with four eggs well beaten. Put all into a saucepan, and simmer gently, stirring all the time, until the cream thickens ;. it must not boil. Serve in glasses, and put a strip of candied orange peel at the top of each glass. If preferred, lemons may be sub- stituted for oranges. Time, about ten minutes to simmer. Probable cost; 10d. Sufficient for ten or twelve glasses. 2 Cream Pancakes.—Whisk thoroughly the yolks of three and the whites of two eggs. Add a small eupful of thick cream, a little sugar, and sufficient flour to make a good batter. Put with it a piece of butter about the size of anegg. Fry in the usual way. . This and all other batters are better made two or three hours before they are used. Time to fry, five or six minutes. Probable cost, 1s. Suéticient for two or three persons. Cream, Patissiere.—Beat one ounce of fine flour very smoothly and gradually with three well-beaten eggs, and add, « little at a time, a pint of boiling milk, or cream and milk, or cream only. Sweeten it with some lumps of sugar which have been rubbed on fresh lemon-., rind, and heat the mixture over the fire, stirring all the time, until it thickens; but it must not boil. This cream is used by the French instead of our cold custard, and is very good made as above, but an ounce and a half of crushed ratafias, or a little brandy, will improve it, and it may then be used for tartlets, cannelons, small vol-au-vents, &c. Sufficient for one pint and a half. Probable cost, 8d., made with milk. Cream Pudding, Rich.—Put the thin rind of a,lemon into a pint of cream, bring it slowly toa boil, and pour itover the finely-grated CRE ( 162 ) CRE: crumb of a French roll. Let it stand to soak, then beat it well with a fork, and add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, one or two drops of almond flavouring, a table-spoon- ful of brandy, and the yolks of six eggs well beaten. Bake in a buttered dish, and serve with wine sauce. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 3d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. - Cream, Rice.—Put.a quart of new milk or cream into a saucepan with any flavouring that may be preferred, if lemon-rind, stick cinnamon, or laurel leaves, the milk should be left stand- ing by the side of the fire a little while to draw the flavour. Mix two table-spoonfuls of ground rice with a little of the milk, and gradually | with the whole of it. Adda well-beaten egg and’ stir the cream over a,gentle fire till it thickens. Sweeten to taste, and serve ina glass dish as an accompaniment to fruit tart or stewed fruit. The cream should be stirred until cold to prevent a skin forming on the top. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for a quart of cream. ‘Cream Sauce.—Put a piece of butter the . size of an egg into a saucepan with a dessert- spoonful of fine flour, and beat them smoothly together with a wooden spoon. When the butter is melted, add gradually half a pint of cream or new milk, and a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace. Let the sauce. simmer over a gentle fire, and stir it constantly. If it becomes too thick, it may be thinned by the addition of a small quantity of milk or cream. The juice of a lemon may be added, if liked. This sauce may be used for turbot, cod, and other fish, vegetables, and white dishes. Time, w. quarter of an hour... Probable cost, 4d.,.if made with milk. Sufficient for rather more than half, a pint of sauce. ‘4 she Cream, Sherry.—Simmer a pint of cream, with an inch of stick cinnamon and two table-spoonfuls of pounded loaf sugar. Let it’ ee cold, then add gradually three table-spoon-’ wls of sherry. Strain,and serve in glasses. Strew a little powdered cinnamon on the top of each glass; stir it well: Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer.the cream. Probable cost, cream, 1s. 6d. per pint. Sufficient for half a dozen glasses. - Cream, Soda.—Put three pounds of loaf. sugar, two ounces and a half of tartaric acid, and two quarts of cold water into a preserving- pan. Let it just boil, then add the whites of three eggs-beaten toa firm froth. Let this boil exactly four minutes, stirring all the time. Strain, and when it is cold, add a: small’ tea- spoonful of any flavouring essence that may be preferred. Keep the liquid in a bottle closely corked. When anagreeable refreshing summer beverage is wanted, two table-spoonfuls of this may be put into half a tumblerful of water, and stirred briskly with a third of a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda. Drink during effervescence. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. for this quantity. Suffi- cient, two table-spoonfuls for a tumbler... _. Cream, Substitute for.—Stir a dessdrt- spoonful of flour into a pint of new milk; simmer it, to take off the rawness of the flour; stir in the yolk of an egg well beaten, and strain the mixture through a fine sieve. Time, a few minutes to simmer. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for rather more than a pint. Cream, Substitute for (another and nicer).—Beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix them with half a pint of milk. Strain the mixture into a saucepan, and stir it until it is heated, but do not let it boil. Sweeten slightly. When cold, it is ready to serve. This may be used either for tea or tarts. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for nearly three-quarters of a pint. Creamed Tartlets.—Line some tartlet ‘tins with good puff paste, and put rather less jam on them thanis usual. Placea little good custard over the jam, and on the top of the custard an icing made by mixing a table-spoon- ful of sifted white sugar with the white of one egg whisked to a solid froth. Place a little of this over each tartlet. and bake in a moderate oven for about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Sufficient, six or eight for a dish. Cream Toasts.—Cut a pound of French roll in slices as thick asa finger, and lay them ina dish. Pour over them half a pint of cream, and a quarter of a pint of milk, and sprinkle some crushed lump sugar and cinnamon on their surface. When the pieces of bread are soaked in the cream, remove them, dip the slices in some raw eggs, and fry them brown.in butter. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 1s. 2d.. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cream, Vanilla.—Mix the well-beaten yolks of four eggs with a pint and a half of thick cream or new milk, add three table-spoon- fuls of sugar, and four or five drops of the essence of vanilla, and last of all, the white of one egg beaten to a firm froth. Put the mix- ture into a jug, place the jug in a saucepan of cold water, and let it simmer gently, stirring the contents of the jug all the time, until the cream thickens. It must on no account boil, or it will be full of lumps. Pour it into custard- glasses, and strew a little finely-sifted sugar on the top of each glass. Sufficient for nearly a quart. Probable cost, 9d. for this quantity, if made with milk. Cream, Vanilla (another way).—Simmer half a stick of vanilla in a pint of milk for twenty minutes, or until the flavour is thoroughly extracted, take out the vanilla, ‘and pour the boiling milk upon one ounce of isinglass, and stir it until the isinglass is quite dissolved. Mix it with the yolks of six eggs, put it in a saucepan, and stir it constantly over tho fire till it thickens, but it must not boil. Strain it in a large basin, and add to it half a pint of well- whipped cream, and a small glass of brandy. Pour it on a well-oiled mould, and set it on ice. To turn it out, dip the mould for a moment into warm water. If it cannot be set on ice, a little more isinglass may be added. Time, three-quarters of an hour to repare. Probable cost, 28. 7d., exclusive of the bendy: Sufficient for one quart mould. ( 163 ) CRE "Cream, Velvet.—Cut three or ‘four sponge biscuits into thin slices, and ‘spread’on each a little’ apricot ‘or greengage jam. Pour over them a glass of sherry, and the juice of a lemon, and let them stand to soak. Dissolve half an ounce of isinglass in a cupful of ‘water, put it with a pint of cream, and two table- spoonfuls of sugar into a saucepan, and let it’ simmer gently for ten minutes, strain it into a jug, and, when nearly cold, pour it from a good height upon the fruit and spongecake. When stiff, it:is ready to serve. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. » Cream, Velvet (another way).—Prepare the jam and the spongecakes as in the last re- cipe. -Simmer a pint and a half of new milk with the thin rind of a lemon, half’an inch of stick cinnamon, and three table-spoonfuls of, sugar, until the flavour is thoroughly extracted. Strain the milk, and let it cool, then mix it with four eggs well beaten.: Beat two dessert- spoonfuls of arrowroot or corn-flour into a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Mix the eggs and milk with them, and put all ina sauce- pan. Let the mixture simmer gently until it thickens, but it must not boil. Pour it over the fruit and spongecake, and let the dish stand in a cool place until wanted. Orange wine may be substituted for sherry. Probable cost, 1s. 3d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a large dish. 5 Cream, Whipped.—The white of one egg should be allowed for every pint of good, thick cream. If this cannot be procured, more eggs must be used. A good-looking dish may be made by boiling a quart of milk down to a pint, and mixing, with it the whites of three eggs. Sweeten and flavour the cream beforé using it. Fora plain whipped cream, this is done by rubbing the rind of a lemon upon three ounces of loaf sugar, and pounding it in a mortar, then mixing it with a glass of sherry or half a glass of brandy, the white of an egg beaten to a solid froth, and afterwards with the cream. Whip it to a froth with a scrupulously clean osier whisk. As it rises, take it off by table-spoonfuls, and put it on a sieve to drain. It isa good plan to whip the cream the day before it is wanted, as it is so much firmer. It should be made in a cool place, and kept in the same. It may be served in a variety of ways, either in glasses, or in a glass dish, when it should be prettily garnished, or surrounded by spongecake, macaroons, or ratafias. A sponge- cake may be made in the shape of a hollow cylinder, and filled with as much whipped cream, as it will hold. Its appearance is im-. proved by colouring part of it:before whipping it (see Colouring). Many persons dissolye a tea-spoonful. of powdered gum arabic in a little orange-flower water, and add this to the cream. It keeps the froth firmer. Double ‘cream may be simply whipped by whisking it with a wire whisk until it thickens.. If beaten too long it will turn. i Cream, Whipped, with Chocolate. —Make two ounces of best chocolate into a paste ‘with a little boiling water. Mix ‘it gradually and smoothly with one pint of cream ‘sweetened, two tea-spoonfuls of dissolved gum’ arabic, if this is used (see the previous recipe) ; boil and cool, then add the whites of three eges beaten to a froth. Half fill the glasses, and whip the remainder into froth.‘ ‘Fill them up, and keep in a cool place till wanted: Double cream, is the best for this purpose. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for eight, or ten’ glasses. Cream, Whipped, with Coffee.—. Mix a table-spoontul of a strong infusion of. coffee in a pint of cream, sweeten it rather’ liberally, and whip it as in the last recipe. It will be of a light brown colour. If this is objected to, it may be obtained free from} colour by roasting freshly. two ounces of coffee-. ‘berries, ‘When they are lightly browned, throw them at once into the cream, and let it stand, for an hour before using. Strain, and whip as ‘before. Serve in glasses. Double cream is the best for this purpose. Sufficient for eight or ten glasses. Probable-cost, 2s. : Cream, Whipped, with Liqueur.— ‘Proceed exactly as before, flavouring the cream before whipping it with any liqueur that may be wished. Double cream is the best for this ‘purpose. Probable cost, 1s. 8d., exclusive of the liqueur. Sufficient for eight or ten glasses. 'Gream, Whipped, with Vanilla— Boil half a pod of vanilla in a cupful of new milk for twenty minutes. Strain, and add it to apint of thick cream. Sweeten with two table- spoonfuls of sugar, and mix in the whites of three eges beaten to a firm froth. .Three' or four ‘drops of vanilla essence may be put with the ‘cream instead of boiling the pod. Choose a cool place for work of thiskind. Probable cost, about 1s. 10d. Sufficient to fill eight or ten glasses. Cream of Tartar Cake.— Rub one ounce of butter into three pints of flour. Add three tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar, and a pinch of salt. Dissolve a piece of saleratus the size of a small nut in a pint of milk. If this cannot conveniently be used a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda dissolved in the milk will supply its place. Add the milk to the flour ‘roll out the dough, cut it into cakes the size of a cup-plate, and about half an inch ‘thick, and ‘bake on tins in a quick oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 10d. for this quantity. Sufficient for six or eight cakes. Cream of Tartar, To Drink.—Put an ounce of cream of tartar, the rind and juice of. two lemons, and a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar into a jug. Pour over them two quarts of boiling water. Drink the beverage .when cold. It will prove cooling and wholesome. : Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 3d. per quart. Sufficient for two quarts. Creme d’Orge.—Boil gently a cupful. of pearl barley in one pint of milk and one pint of water until quite tender. Strain off the liquid (which, if sweetened and flavoured, will be a refreshing and wholesome drink for a child or sick person), and mix with the barley.a pint of: cream, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg, two eggs well beaten, and a quarter of a nutmeg grated. aR CRE Return the barley to the saucepan, and let it simmer gently for an hour. Stir it frequently. It may be either served in custard-glasses, or put in a buttered dish and baked in a moderate oven. If baked four eggs may be used. Proba- ble cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Créme d’Orge, Soup of.—Cut three- quarters of a pound of veal and half a pound of beef into small pieces. Put them into a sauce- pan with twd ounces of pearl barley and two quarts of cold water, bring it to a boil, skim thoroughly, and simmer as gently as possible for three hours. Then rub the whole through a sieve. Add pepper and salt, and any other seasoning that may be fancied. The soup should be of the consistency of thick cream. Probable cost, 10d. per pint. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cress Sauce (for Fish and Poultry).—- Wash some cress carefully. Pick it from the stalks, and boil it for about ten minutes. Drain it, mince it very finely, and stir it into a little melted butter. Serve inatureen. Sufficient, a handful of cress for half a pintof sauce. Cost, 6d. per pint. Cressy Soup.—Wash clean, prepare, and slice eight carrots, cight turnips, eight small onions stuck with one or two cloves, half a drachm of celery-seed, bruised and tied in a muslin bag, and a slice of lean ham cut into small pieces. Put these into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a large egg, move them constantly, and when they are nicely browned, add, a little at a time, three quarts of good stock (see Stock). If it is necessary to use fresh meat, two pounds of the shin of beef boiled gently in four quarts of water for three’ hours will answer the purpose. Simmer until the vegetables are quite tender. Press them through a Coarse sieve with the back of a spoon, return them to the saucepan, season with pepper and salt, and boil twenty minutes longer. The soup should be of the consistency of very thick cream. A little boiled rice may be put into the tureen, and the soup poured on it. Time, two hours, if the stock or gravy be already prepared. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost, 1s. 6d., exclusive of the stock or gravy. Crisp Biscuits.—A very stiff dough is required for these biscuits. To one pound and a half of flour add the yolks of two small eggs, and as much milk as will bring it to the required consistency. Beat and knead the paste till it is quite smooth, and, when rolled out thin, make it into small biscuits with a tin cutter, and bake these in a slow oven’ about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, about 6d. Crisped Parsley.—Wash some young parsley; pick away the decayed or brown leaves, and shake it in a cloth till it is quite dry. Spread iton a sheet of paper, and putit in| a Dutch oven before a clear fire; turn it very often until it is quite crisp. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Sufficient, a little to garnish a dish. . proquant Paste.—Mix two ounces of finely-sifted loaf sugar with a quarter of a ( 164 ) CRO pound of fine flour. Add the well-beaten yolks of eggs till it forms a stiff paste. Roll it out, about the eighth of an inch in thickness, and, with an ordinary pastry cutter, cut it out into pretty little shapes. Let these dry a short time, then brush them over with the white of an egg, sift a little sugar over them, place them on a tin, and bake them for a few minutes ina moderate oven. Take them from the tin before they are cold, and place them on the tartlets, &c., for which they are intended. Sufficient, two or three for a small dish of pastry, Probable cast, 4d. for this quantity. Croquettes.—These useful little dishes are made of minced meat, poultry, fish, &c., highly seasoned, mixed with a little ‘sauce, dipped in egg and bread-crumbs, fried until crisp, and served with any sauce. They differ from rissoles only in this, that the latter are covered with good puff paste before frying, and croquettes are rolled in egg and bread-crumbs. They should be well drained from the tat before serving, then piled high on a hot napkin, and the ‘sauce sent to table in a tureen. Though they are often made of fresh meat, they are chiefly useful for cold. It will be evident that nearly everything depends upon the seasoning. Though there are numberless names for them, from the materials of which they are made, or the sauces with which they are served, the general idea in all is the same—a savoury mince, moistened with sauce, if necessary bound together with the yolk of egg, dipped in beaten egg, rolled in bread-crumbs, and fried crisp. Croquettes (au Financiére).—Mince very ely the livers of two fowls, a sweetbread, a shallot, six small mushrooms, and two truffles Season rather highly with pepper and salt. Put one ounce of butter into a stewpan, let it ‘melt, then mix with it very smoothly and slowly a table-spoonful of flour. When it is lightly browned, add the mince and an ounce of butter, and simmer forten minutes, stirring all the time. Drain off the fat, adda glass of light wine to the mixture, and simmer it gently for a few minutes longer. When it is cold and stiff, mould it into small balls, and fry these in the usual way. Half a dozen oysters, finely minced, are sometimes added. Sprinkle a little salt over croquettes before serving them. Time to fry, ten minutes. Probable cost, sweetbread, from 1s. to 4s. Sufficient, allow one or two croquettes for each person. Croquettes of Fowl.—Take the remains of a cold fowl, and mince it very finely; put it ‘ina cages me with a little gravy, a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace, and a table-spoonful of cream. Let it boil, stirring it well all the time, and, if necessary, thicken it with a little flour, or a few bread-crumbs. When cold and firm, roll it into balls about the size of a walnut, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs; do this once or twice, and fry them in plenty of hot dripping until they are lightly browned; pile them on a napkin and garnish with crisped parsley (sce Crisped Parsley). Time to fry, ten minutes Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat, Allow two or three for each person. CRO (165 ) CRU Croquettes of Rice.—Put a quarter of a pound of rice, one pint of milk, three table- spoonfuls of finely-sifted sugar, a piece of butter the size of a small nut, and the thin rind of a lemon, into a saucepan. Any other flavouring may be used, if preferred. Simmer gently until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. It must be boiled until thick and dry, or it will be difficult to mould: into croquettes. Beat it thoroughly for three or four minutes, then turn it out, and when it is cold and stiff, form it into small balls dip these in egg, sprinkle a few ‘ CROQUETTES OF RICE. bread-crumbs over them, and fry them in clari- fied fat till they are lightly and equally browned, Put them on a piece of clean blotting-paper, to drain the fat from them, and serve them piled high on the dish. If it can. be done without breaking them, it is an improvement to introduce a little jam into the middle of each one; or jam may be served with them. Time, about one hour to boil the rice, ten minutes to fry the. croquettes. dozen for a dish. Probable cost, 4d., without the jam. : Croquettes, Vol-au-vent de.—Make some. extremely light puff paste; roll it out very evenly, or it will not rise properly. Roll it out about a quarter of an inch thick; stamp it to the size and shape of the bottom of the dish in which you intend to send it to table; roll the paste again, and stamp another shape, four times as thick as the first; place it on the top of the other, fastening it at the edges with yolk of egg. Make a slight incision nearly through the pastry all round the top about an inch from the edge. Bake it in a drisk oven (this is important) until lightly browned, at once take out the paste inside the centre, remove the soft crumb from the middle, but be careful not to break the edges. Keep it in a warm place, and, when wanted, fill it with -eroquettes (see Croquettes,au Financiére). Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, de- pends upon the size. A vol-au-vent should never be made large. Croustades.—These are patties made very much of the same shape as vol-au-vents, bread being used instead of puff paste. They are best made as follows: Cut thick slices from-a roll, scoop a hollow in the centre, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain, and them in the oven for a few minutes. They should then be filled with very nicely- seasoned® mince, moistened with a little stiff ‘white sauce. The crust of the roll may be removed or not before frying. Time to fry, Sufficient, a. ten minutes. Probable cost, rolls, 1d. each. Sufficient, allow one croustade for each person. Croustades, or Dresden Patties oe way).—Croustades are very nice cut om a French roll, as above, then dipped in a little milk, and drained, brushed over with egg, dipped in bread-crumbs, and fried. They may be filled either with sweets or a savoury mince. Care must be taken not to break them. Time to fry, a few minutes. s Crotite-aux-Champignons.—Cut the crust from a stale loaf rather more than an inch in thickness, toast and butter it. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan; let it melt, then put into it three dozen button mushrooms, first cutting off the ends of the stalks, and paring them neatly. Strew over them a little pepper and salt, and add the juice of half a lemon. Stew them gently for twenty-five minutes, shaking the pan frequently. Grate a quarter of a nutmeg over them, and add a tea-spoonful of flour mixed with a cupful of milk. Let them simmer five minutes longer, pour them over the toast, and serve hot. A little good stock may be used instead of the milk if preferred. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, mushrooms, 6d. to 2s. per pint. Crofitons.—Cut some slices of the crumb of bread half ¢n inch in thickness, into any shape, round, oval, or square, that may be preferred, and fry them in hot clarified fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them from the fat and they are ready to serve. They are used for garnish. Time to fry, five minutes. Crotitons (& /’Artois).— Fry | some crotitons (see the preceding recipe). Pour over them a purée of young peas (see Peas, Purée of), thinned with a little stock, and seasoned with salt and pepper. Serve as hot as posstble. Time, five minutes to fry the crofitons. Suffi- cient, a quart of purée for four or five persons. Probable cost of peas, when in full season, 6d. per peck. Crullers.—Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter toa cream, Add half a pound of sugar, a pinch of salt, five well-beaten eggs, one table-spoonful of ground cinnamon, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a table-spoonful of saleratus. Beat all together thoroughly for some minutes, then add as much flour as will make a soft dough. Cut it in strips about three inches long and one wide, twist these and drop them into a little boiling lard. "When they are lightly browned, they are done enough. Drain. them, and, serve with a little pounded sugar strewn over them. Time, ten minutes to fry the crullers. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. for this quantity. Crumbs, Fried Bread (with which to dredge Hams or Bacon).—Place a crust of bread in a cool oven, when it is crisp and brown, roil it into dust with a rolling-pin, pass it through a coarse sievé, and bottle the powder, until wanted: Or, put the crumbs of bread into a frying-pan with a little clarified butter, stir them. constantly till they are brightly browned, and drain them before the fire. Time te fry, CRU ( 166 ) CRU five or six minutes ; time to brown the crust, it should be left all night in a cool oven. Crumbs, Substitute for.—Some cooks, when frying fish, substitute oatmeal for grated ' bread-crumbs. It costs comparatively nothing, and requires no preparation. * - Crumpets.—Warm one pint of new milk , -and one ounce of butter in a saucepan ; when the ‘butter melts, take it from the fire, let it cool alittle, and mix with it a beaten egg, a pinch of salt, and flour enough to make it into batter; | ‘lastly, put with it a quarter of a pint of fresh . ‘yeast. Cover it, and let it stand in a warm . place for a quarter of an hour. Bake the | crumpets slightly on an iron plate made for the ' ‘purpose, and well’ greased. If this is not at: hand, they may be baked in the frying-pan. ‘When one side appears sufficiently cooked turn | them quickly on-the ofher. ‘Crumpets may, ' however, be bought for a trifling expense, and | as they take-a good deal of trouble to prepare, it does not seem worth while to’ make ‘them at | “home when’ they can be’ purchased.’ They should be toasted and pleitifully buttered ; they | ‘will ‘be soft and’woolly; they are rather like a | ‘blanket soaked in butter, and are nearly as indigestible. Time to bake, about ten minutes. ‘Probablé ‘dost, 4d.‘each.* Allow two ‘for’ each person. : Se ee. Crumpets, Scotch.—Crumpets in Scot- : land are made with oatmeal or unbolted flour , instead of the ordinary flour. _ , ‘Crumpet and Muffin :Pudding.— Butter a plain round mould,-and place in it alternately two muffins :and_ three..crumpets. | Split open the muffins and put a little red cur- rant jelly in each. Pour over them a light batter, cover the mould closcly, and boil or steam for an hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five persons. Crust, Butter, for Boiled Puddings. —Put one pound of flour, a,pinch of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of baking-powder “into a basin, mix them well, then rub into them six -ounces of fresh butter. Work the mixture with. a knife or fork into a paste by the addition of half a pint of water: Roll it out once or twice, and it will be ready for use. Butter must be. used for pudding-crust when suet is disliked, as lard is not nice for boiled puddings. Ifa richer crust is preferred, another ounce or two’ of butter may be added, but for ordinary pud- dings the crust just described is excellent. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Pro- bable cost, 6d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for a pudding large enough for three or four persons. , Crust, Common, for Raised Pies. —Melt a quarter of a pound of butter and a, quarter of a pound of lard in half a pint of, water. Put, two pounds of flour into a basin, cand when the butter and lard are melted in the . water, pour them into the flour, stirring it all the time. Work the mixture with the hands .to a stiff paste, and, in order to keep it soft, :put the portion which is not being. worked: upon a plate over a saucepan of. ot water. Probable cost, 6d..per-pound.: cob dae 1 Crust, Dripping, for Kitchen Pies.— | Rub six ounces o: nicely-clarified beef dripping into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, a small ‘tea-spoonful of baking-powder, and a table-spoonful of sugar. Make the mixture |-into a ‘stiff smooth paste by stirring cold water into it, and roll it out once only. It is. then ready for. use. Time to prepare, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. Crust for Fruit Tarts.—Mix a pinch of salt and two'table-spoontuls of sifted sugar with a poundiof dry flour. Break six ounces of fresh butter into small pieces, crumble it into the flour, and work it into a smooth paste with a little new milk. Roll it out two or three times, and in doing so, add two ounces more of butter, and touch it, with the hands as little as possible. Bake in a moderate oven. Time to prepare, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Crust: for French Tarts, Rich.— Crumble four ounces of butter into half a pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, and sufficient cold water to make it into a light paste. Give it three good rolls, fold it each time, and touch it very lightly. The less handling it has the better it will be. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. | Crust, Good.—Mix two table-spoonfuls of .sifted sugar and a. pinch of salt in a pound of flour, rub into it:six ounces of butter, and mix the whole lightly together with a fork by adding ‘the yolks of two eggs. and sufficient water to work it into a smooth paste. Time, twenty minutes to'prepare. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. : Crust, Lard.—Rub half a pound of lard into a pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, and make it into a paste by mixing with it a cupful of water. The unmelted lard, freed from skin and thinly sliced, makes very good pastry; but a mixture of lard and dripping, or ‘lard and butter, makes a ‘better crust than. lard alone. Time to prepare, twenty minutes. - Probable cost, 10d. per pound. .. Crust, Paté Brisée.—Pite Brisée, the short, crisp crust which;is so much used by the French for pies, is made by working the butter, lard, or suet thoroughly into the flour, which must be very dry, before it is moistened; six ounces of butter, a pinch of salt, anda small cupful of water.may be allowed for every pound of flour, and if it is to be used for raised pies, it must be.made rather stiff. . Time to prepare, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Crust,’ Short, Common. — Mix two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, a pinch of salt, and a heaped: tea-spoonful of baking-powder with one pound of dry-flour. Rub into it-three ounces of good beef dripping, and work it into a smooth paste with water or new milk. Handle it as little as possible.. Bake in a mode- rate oven.. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. «: _Crust, Suet, for Puddings.—Allow Bix or eight ounces of suet and a pinch of salt for every pound.of flour. Carefully remove the skin from the suet, and shred it as finely as cuc possible, strewing a little flour over it two or three times to prevent its sticking together. Mix it with the flour, and work it into a firm’ paste with a little cold water. Probable cost 4d. per pound. ? Cucumbers.—tThis delicious fruit is in |, season from April to September. Though it may be served in various ways, it is never so good as when eaten raw. Many persons object, to it on account of its being so indigestible, and, -cortainly this is the case; but we believe it would be found to be less so if the rind were eaten with the cucumber. If the stalk end be kept standing in cold water, and the water be changed ere day, cucumbers will keep hard for a week or two. ‘ Cucumber Ketchup. — Cucumber ketchup is useful for flavourmg sauces which’ are to be served with rather tasteless meats, such. as rabbits, veal, sweetbreads, calf’s brains, &c.' It is made by paring and mashing ‘cucumbers, ' sprinkling salt over them, and leaving ‘them for! some hours to draw out the juice, which is then strained, and boiled with a liberal allowance of' seasoning. The ketchup must be kept: ‘in’ bottles and. closely corked. Time, twenty-four hours to extract the juice. Sufficient, two dessert-spoonfuls of ketchup for half a pint of sauce. Probable cost .of cucumbers, when plentiful, 6d. each. Cucumber Mangoes. — Choose large; green cucumbers, not very ripe, cut a long narrow strip out of the sides, and scoop out the seeds with a tea-spoon. Pound a few of these with a little scraped horse-radish, finely-shred -garlic, mustard-seed, and white pepper; stuff ‘the hollows out of which the seeds came as full as they will hold, replace the strips, and bind them 1m their places with a little thread. Boil as much vinegar as will cover them, and pour it on them while hot; repeat this for three days. The last time boil the vinegar with half an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, two ounces of pepper, two ounces of mustard-seed, a stick of | horse-radish, and one clove of garlic to every half gallon of vinegar. Put the cucumbers into jars, pour the boiling liquid over them, tie the Jars closely down, and set them aside for use. "Time, four days. Probable cost of cucumbers, 6d. each when in full season. Cucumber Sauce.—Take three young cucumbers, slice them rather thickly, and fry them in a little butter till they are lightly browned. Dredge them with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and simmer them till tender in as much good brown gravy as will cover them. "White sauce or melted butter may be substituted for the gravy if these are more suitable for the dish with which the cucumber sauce is to be served. Time, about a quarter of an hour to simmer the cucumbers. Probable cost, small cucumbers, 4d. each. Sufficient, three young cucumbers for one pint of sauce. ’ ‘Cucumber Slice.—This machine is used for cutting cucumbers into very thin slices. In appearance it somewhat resembles the Scotch hands which are used for shaping butter, with a sharp steel blade running down the middle of the hand. Before using it the cucumber should ( 167 ) cuc be pared, then held in an upright position, and . worked ‘briskly and rather sharply backwards and forwards on the knife, so that, each move- ment of the hand will take off a slice of cucumber. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. - , Cucumber Soup.—Cut the cucumbers into slices, ‘strew a little salt over them, and Place them between. two, plates to drain off the juice. Put them into a saucepan, and cover them with some good white stock. Simmer them gently for forty minutes, then add as much more stock as may be required, and alittle sorrel. Season with salt and cayenne, and thicken the soup with ground rice or arrowroot. When it boils, draw it from the fire for a minute or two, and adda pint of milk mixed with the yolks of two eggs. The soup must not, of course, boil after the eggs are added. Time, about one hour. : Probable cost, 1s.6d. per quart. | Allow one large cucumber for. three pints. of soup, including half a pint of milk. , | ‘ Cucumber, Stuffed.—Peel'.a Jarge ‘cucumber. Remove a narrow piece from the | side, and scoop out the seeds with a, tea-spoon. Fill the cavity with nicely-flavoured forcemeat, replace the piece, and bind it round with strong white thread. ‘Line the bottom of a saucepan ‘with slices of meat and bacon, put the cucumber upon it, and then two or three more slices. Cover the whole with nicely-flavoured stock, /and if. more vegetables are desired, two or three sliced carrots, turnips, and onions may be ‘added. _ Season. with salt and pepper, and simmer gently, until cucumber, meat, and veget- ables dre sufficiently cooked. ‘If the cucumber is © ‘tender before ‘the rést, it should be taken out, “and kept hot.’ ‘Thicken the gravy with a little butter and flour, and pour it over the cucumber. _Time, about one hour. Probable cost of cucum- ber, 6d. or Is. Sufficient for four or five persons. Cucumber Vinegar.— Wipe as many cucumbers as you -may intend ‘to use, slice them, without paring them, into a wide-mouthed bottle, and put with them two or three shallots, if the flavour is liked. Pour over them as much vinegar as will cover them, and add a clove of ‘garlic, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a tea-spoonful of salt for every quart of vinegar. Let them’ infuse for eleven or twelve days, then strain the vinegar into small, bottles, and cork these tightly. Cucumber vinegar is very good to flavour salads, hashes, &c., or to eat with cold meat. The young leaves of burnet when soaked in vinegar give just: the. same flavour as cucumber. Probable cost of cu- cumbers, 6d. each when in full season. As much vinegar should be poured over as will just cover the slices. Cucumber White Sauce.—Peel a large cucumber, cut it.into. small pieces, and take out .the pips. . Simmer the pieces gently in a little | salt and water until quite tender, then drain |; them, and.stew them for.a few minutes longer in good white, sauce, in which, they must be served. Time, half an-hour.:;'Probable cost, 1s. for half a pint. Sufficient for'a. small dish. Cucumbers (3 I'Exspagnole), — Cut the cucumbers into pieves. about two inches long cuc (168 ) cuc and one inch wide, remove the seeds, strew a ‘little salt over them, and let them remain be- tween two plates for an hour or more. Drain off the juice, and put them into a saucepan, cover them with good: stock, and let them simmer gently until quite tender, which will be in about twenty minutes. Drain them, pile them on a dish, pour some good brown sauce over them, and serve. Time, one hour. Probable cost of cucumbers, 6d. each. Sufficient, one large cucumber for half a pint of sauce. Cucumbers (a la Poulette)—Peel two small, young cucumbers. Remove the seeds. Cut the fruit into pieces about one inch thick and two inches long, stew these till tender in water with a little salt and vinegar in it; drain them. Put into a stewpan one ounce of butter and three-quarters of an ounce of flour; mix the butter and flour well, and let them remain about three minutes. Add gradually one pint of nicely-flavoured stock. Simmer gently for fifteen minutes. Put in the cucumbers, with a seasoning of salt. and pepper, and in a minute or two two table-spoonfuls of cream. Draw the sauce from the fire, and, just before serving it, add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs and the juice of half alemon. Time, one hour. Pro- bable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for one pint and a half. Cucumbers, Fried.—Take the rind from the cucumbers, slice them, dredge over them a little pepper, and lay them in flour. Make some butter very hot, put in the slices, and when they are tender and lightly browned, strew a very little salt over them; drain them, and place them on a hot dish under the steak or hash with which they are to be served. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost of cucumbers, 6d. each. Sufficient, one small cucumber for one pound of rump steak. Cucumbers, Pickled.—lIf the cucumbers are very young and small they may be pickled whole, if not, they are better cut into thick slices. Sprinkle salt rather plentifully over them, and let them remain twenty-four hours. Drain them from the juice, dry them in a cloth, and pour over them boiling vinegar, with half an ounce of mustard-seed, one ounce of salt, one ounce of long pepper, half a bruised nutmeg, and a pinch of cayenne to every quart of vinegar. Cover them closely, and let them re- main until next day, when the vinegar must again be boiled and poured over the cucumbers, and this process repeated each day for four days. They should then be covered closely, and care should be taken with these, as with all pickles, that they are thoroughly covered with vinegar. It is best to pickle cucumbers by themselves, as they are apt to become mouldy. If any sign of this appears (and they should be looked at every three or four weeks to ascertain it, and on this account should be kept in a wide-mouthed glass bottle instead of ' an earthen jar), put them into a fresh dry ~ bottle, boil the vinegar up again, and pour it over them. Time to pickle, one week. Pro- bable cost of cucumbers, 4d. to 6d. each. Cucumbers, Preserved (An excellent sweetmeat for dessert).—Choose cucumbers that are young, fresh, and nearly free from seeds. split them, cut the pieces across, take out the seeds, and lay them for three days in brine strong enough to bear an egg. Put over them a cabbage-leaf or vine-leaves ‘to keep them down, and place a cover over the pan. Af the end of that time take them out, wash them in cold water, and set them on the fire with cold water, and a tiny lump of alum. As the water heats, keep adding a little more, until the cucumbers are a bright green, which they ought to be in a short time, and if they are not, change the water again and let them heat as before, but they must not boil. Drain them, and when cool pour over them a syrup, made by boiling a quart of water, a stick of cinnamon, one ounce of ground ginger, and one pound of loaf sugar for every pound of cucumber. Boil the cinnamon and ginger in the water for an hour, then drain it and add the sugar, and boil to a thick syrup. Let the cucumbers lie in this for two days, when the syrup must be boiled for ten minutes with them. Put the preparation into jars and leave it until next day, when it must be covered closely. These direc- tions must be minutely attended to, or the sweetmeat will not be a success. Time, six days. Cucumbers, Stewed.—Take two or three young fresh cucumbers. Peel them; and cut them into quarters lengthwise, remove: the seeds, dry them, dip them in flour and fry them in hot butter till they are lightly browned. Lift them out with an egg-slice, drain them, and put them into a saucepan with a tea-cupful of good brown gravy.. Season with pepper and salt, and stew them gently until tender. Just before serving add a dessert- spoonful of Chilli vinegar and a small lump of sugar.. Time, half an hour. Probable. cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Cucumbers Stewed with Onions.— Prepare the cucumbers as in the last recipe, and fry with them an equal number ‘of slices of onion, being very careful: that they do not burn. Stew these in the gravy with the cucumbers. If it would be preferred a little richer, the yolks of two eggs might be added to the sauce, but of course if this were done the sauce must not be allowed to boil after the addition. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 5d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Cucumbers, To Dress.—Pare the cu- cumber and cut it into thin slices, or pare it round and round into ribands, leaving out the watery part. Sprinkle a little salt over, and in a few minutes drain off the water which exudes. Put the slices on a clean dish, and pour a little oil and vinegar over them, and if neces- sary add a little more salt and pepper. Many persons like a few slices of onion served with the cucumber, or a tea-spoonful of the vinegar in which onions have been pickled, may be added to the other vinegar. Probable cost, cucumbers 6d. each, when in full season. Cucumbers, To Keep, for Winter Use (German method).—Pare and slice the cucumbers. Sprinkle a little salt over them, and cover them with a dish. The next day cUuL ( 169 ) CUR drain off the liquor. Place the slices of cucum- ber in a jar, with a little salt between each layer, and tie them up. Before using them rinse them in fresh water, and dress them with pepper, oil, and vinegar. Time, twenty-four hours to stand in salt. Probable cost of cucum- bers, 6d. each, when in full season. Cullis, or Rich Gravy.—Put one pound of undressed. ham or bacon, about a quarter of an inch thick, at the bottom of a good-sized stewpan. Place upon it two pounds of lean beef or veal, a large onion stuck with three ‘cloves, a large carrot sliced, a bunch of savoury herbs, a bay-leaf, half a tea-spoonful of bruised celery seeds tied in muslin, or a few sticks of celery, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and two blades of mace. Pour over these a brealfast- cupful of, water. Cover closely, and simmer gently for half an hour, when the liquid will have nearly all boiled away. Turn the meat oncé or twice that it may be equally browned on both sides. Pour over it three pints of boiling water’ or stock, and simmer gently for three hours. It is usual to allow a pint of water to every pound of meat stewed. Thicken the gtavy with a table-spoonful of brown thicken- ‘ing, or with two small table-spoonfuls of flour mixed smoothly with a little cold water or cold ‘gravy, and added gradually to the contents of the stewpan. Simmer twenty minutes longer. If too thick, a little water should be added to the gravy, if not thick enough it should be stewed a little longer. Strain the gravy, and ‘before using it lift off the fat, which will cake at the top when the liquid is cold. This gravy will keep a week, but in hot weather it would be well to boil it up once or twice. This preparation has various names: Cullis, Espag- nole Sauce, Savoury Gravy, and Brown Gravy. .It is used for Sauces, Morels, and Truffles. Wine and ketchup may be added if desired. Probable cost, 3s. 4d. for this quantity. Suffi- -cient for one pint and a half. Cullis, or Rich Gravy (another way),— Take the bones of a large leg of mutton, or of a large piece of beef. A ham bone or a little bacon rind may be added. Break into small ‘pieces and put into « large saucepan with five ‘pints of water. Bring toa boil, and let it simmer very gently for five hours, being careful that it keeps on simmering slowly all the time ; then strain it. Skim it carefully. If there be time, ‘leave it until the next day, so that the fat may be entirely removed. Return it to the sauce- pan, and put with it a large onion stuck with three cloves, a bay leaf; half a tea-spoonful of bruised celery seed tied in a muslin bag, or a few sticks of celery, a large carrot sliced, a bunch _of savoury herbs, two. tea-spoonfuls of salt, a '"tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a blade of _mace. Simmer these gently for two hours; _strain; stir into the mixture a tea-spoonful of ‘Liebig’s extract of meat and a little browning (see Colouring). Thicken it with a table-spoon- ful of brown thickening, or with from one to two table-spoonfuls of flour mixed smoothly with a little cold water, and added gradually to the contents of the saucepan, and let it simmer twenty minutes’ longer. If too thick, a little water may be added; if not thick enough, stew it a littie longer. Strain it from the vegetables beforé putting it aside. Thig gravy will keep a week, but in hot weather it would be well to boil it up once or twice. Time, eight hours. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive a eo bones Sufficient for one pint and a Cup Puddings.—Beat four ounces of butter ‘to a cream; mix smoothly with it four ounces of fine flour, four table-spoonfuls of milk, a small pinch of sali, four ounces of picked and dried currants, and four ounces of finely-sifted sugar; beat all well together; butter seven or eight cups or small basins; a little more than half fill them, and bake them in a good oven. Turn them out, and serve with wine sauce, or a little jam. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Allow one for each person. Cup Pudding. Invaum Cooxury— (another way— a wholesome, easily-digested pudding for an invalid).—Mix a small tea- spoonful of flour and a tiny pinch of salt very smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of cold water ; pour over it, stirring all the time, a tea-cupful of boiling milk, and whew. it is cold strain it, to insure its being perfect.y free from lumps, and add one fresh egg well beaten. Sweeten with a small tea-spoonful of sugar, pour it into a buttered basin, and bake it for twenty minutes. Turn out to serve. If it be allowed, a little sherry is an improvement. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for one person. Curacoa.—Take a quarter of a pound of the thin rind of Seville oranges, and pour over it a pint of boiling water; when cool, add two quarts of brandy or rectified spirits of wine, and let it remain for ten or twelve days, stirring it every day. Make a clarified syrup of two pounds of finely-sifted sugar and one pint of water; add this to the brandy, &c. Line a funnel with a piece of muslin, and that with chemists’ filtering paper; let.the liquid pass through two or three times, till it is quite bright. This will require a little patience. Put it into small bottles, and cork it closely. Time, twelve days. Probable cost, 2s., exclu- sive of the brandy. Sufficient for a little more than three quarts of curagoa. Curacoa imparts an agreeable flavour to cream and to punch, and is an excellent liquor. Curacoa Jelly.—Curagoa jelly is made by. substituting Seville orange-rind for the lemon-rind generally used in making calf’s foot ‘jelly, and using curacoa instead of sherry or brandy. Curacoa Sauce.—Mix a dessert-spoonful of amowroot very smoothly with a little cold water, and pour upon it half a pint of boiling water. Put it on the fire, and let it boil for three or four minutes; sweeten it, and flavour it with a wine-glassful of curagoa. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the curagoa. Sufficient for a small pudding. Curate’s Pudding.—Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan, with the thin rind of a large lemon, a small.pinch of salt, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and a heaped table- CUR (170 ) CUR spoonful of sugar. Let it stand by the side of the fire until the flavour of the lemon is ex- tracted, and the butter dissolved. Put it aside to cool. Whisk the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs, mix with them a pound of boiled potatoes which have been rubbed through a sieve, add the milk, &c., and pour into buttered cups. The cups must not be much more than half filled. Turn out, and serve with wine sauce. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Allow one for each person. Curd.—The most usual way to “turn” milk, as it is called, that is, to make it curdle, is to mix it, when warm, but not hot, with a little rennet, and let it stand in a warm’ place until the curd is solid and the whey clear. -Rennet is made by obtaining from the butcher the dried inner stomach of a calf, and soaking a tiny piece of it in a cupful of hot water for four hours. The liquid at the end of that time is what is called rennet. An inch of the dried skin so soaked in water will turn a gallon. The less rennet used, the more delicate will be the curd. The skin may be kept a long time if it is hung in a cool place; it should be covered to protect it from dust. Rennet may also be bought at the grocer’s in small bottles at 1s. each. A little lump of alum put into cold milk and set on the fire will turn milk, or a few well-beaten eggs stirred in just as the milk is boiling. A pinch of salt added after the milk curdles will assist the whey to separate. Whey is by some considered a wholesome drink for feverish “persons, and in country places the lasses often ‘wash in it to improve their complexions. Curd Cheesecakes.—Turn one quart of milk with a little rennet; drain off the whéy, aud mix with the curd a piece of butter the size of a large egg, beaten to a cream; press it through a coarse sieve, and mix with ita heaped ‘table-spoonful of pounded loaf sugar, the peel of a lemon finely shred, two table-spoonfuls of currants, two well-beaten eggs, and a dozen swect and two bitter almonds, blanched and pounded. Line some patty-pans with a good crust, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1d. each. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. ‘Curd Fritters.—Press a pint of curds through a mortar, and mix with it the whites of two and the yolks of four well-beaten eggs, a dessert-spoonful of flour, a table-spoonful of sifted sugar, and a pinch of pounded cinnamon. Put some lard into a frying-pan, let it get quite hot, drop the batter into it, fry until lightly. browned, drain the fritters from the fat, and serve them as hot as possible. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost, 10d. for this’ quantity. Sufficient for five or six persons. Curd Pudding.—Turn a quart of milk with a little rennet; drain off the whey, and mix the curd with two ounces of butter beaten to a cream, three table-spoonfuls of finely- grated bread-crumbs, two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar, a table-spoonful of new milk, a .. couple of fresh eggs, and a glass of white wine. Butter some plain round moulds, rather more than half fill them with the mixture, and bake them in a good oven for about twenty minutes. Turn them out, sift a little sugar over them, stick a few sliced and blanched almonds in them, and serve with curagoa sauce. Probable cost, 10d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Curd Star.—Put a pint of milk, the rind ofa lemon, and a tiny pinch of salt into a saucepan, and mix with it, when boiling, four eggs well beaten; boil until it curdles, sweeten, and season it with a little wine, and let it boil until the whey separates entirely. Drain it through a colander or any round or star-shaped. mould that has holes in it, and when it is cold and firm, and the whey has drained quite off, turn it out and serve with custard round the dish, but not upon the star. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 2d, including the custard. Sufficient for four persons. Curds and Cream.—Curd is usuall served in a dish with cream, sweetened an flavoured, poured round it; it should be drained from the whey and flavoured with a little light wine. Time, a quarter of an hour to separate the curd. Sufficient, a quart of milk curdled and a pint of cream for a moderate-sized dish. Probable cost, 2s. Currants.— Under the general name currants are included the red, white, and black currants which grow in our gardens, and the small dried grapes imported into this country which are sold in the grocers’ shops, and which are so largely used in making cakes and puddings. The juice of red, white, and black currants is ‘| specially adapted for medicinal purposes, and the fruit is also extensively used for jams, jellies, tarts, and dessert. : Currant and Raspberry Tart.—The addition of a few raspberries very greatly im- proves the flavour of a red currant tart, but they must be carefully looked over to see that there are no little worms inside the berries after they are picked. Strip the currants from the stalks, and allow three heaped table-spoonfuls of moist sugar to every quart of fruit. line the edges of a deep pie-dish with good crust (see Crust for Fruit Tarts). Place an inverted cup in the middle of the dish. Fill the latter with the fruit, and cover it with the same crust as the edges. Ornament the top as fancy dictates, and bake in a good oven. Sift a little pounded sugar over the tart before serving it. Time to bake, half an hour or more, according to the size of the dish. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for four or five persons. _ Currant Cakes.—For currant cakes baked in a dish or mould several recipes have already been given under Christmas Cakes, Plum Cakes, &c.; two or three more are given here for cakes, which may either be dropped’ in small rounds on a buttered tin, or put into a buttered dish, and baked in a quick oven. Clean and pick two ounces of currants; rub a quarter of @ pound of fresh butter into half a pound of flour, add the currants, a little grated nutmeg, and four table-spoonfuls of sugar. Mix all together with two well-beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of brandy, and sufficient new milk to make a light CUR (171) CUR dough. Roll out thin, and cut into cakes; Or wash and ‘pick one pound of currants; beat one pound of fresh butter to a cream, add one pound of sugar, one pound and a half of flour, a tea- spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, the currants, and four eggs well beaten. Another recipe: Clean and pick half a pound of dried currants; beat a quarter of a’pound of butter'to a cream; mix with it a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, half a pound | of dried flour, the yolks of four and the whites of three eggs well beaten, the currants, and a tea-spoonful of. powdered cinnamon; beat all well together for a quarter of an hour. An- other way: (economical): Rub « quarter of a, pound of dripping into one pound of flour; , add a-pinch of salt,.two heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, three ounces of picked currants, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, and enough milk or water to form a. stiff dough. Time, about twenty minutes to’ ‘bake. ‘Sufficient, one pound of flour, with the other ingredients, will make about one dozen, cakes. Probable cost, from 4d. to 2d. each. Currant ‘Champagne.— Take four: quarts of very ripe white currants and four quarts of very ripe red currants; pour over them'six quarts of cold water, and bruise and stir’‘them about every day for six days. Strain thejuice through ajelly-bag, and putfour pounds of loaf-sugar to every gallon of liquid; add one. ounce of isinglass, dissolved in a little water, and two table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast. Leave the wine for two or three days, then put it into a cask, which, when the fermentation is quite. over, must'be closed. It will be ready to use in six or eight months. Probableicost of currants, variable ; when plentiful, 4d. per quart. Currant Cream Ice. — 'Take' one pint of red currant-juice (see Currant, Red, Cream), mix with it a pint of cream, sweeten and freeze. -A few raspberries or strawberries are an improvement. ‘The ice-cream may be made with red currant jelly instead of juice if. ‘the fresh fruit is not in season. :Currant-water ice is much more wholesome and refreshing: than cream ice. It is made’by mixing a pint. of juice with syrup produced by; boiling a, ‘pound and a half of sugar with. a quart of. water, and then freezing the mixture like cream. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, .28, 6d. per quart, (See also Currant Water Ice). Currant, Red, Cream.—Expressa pint of red currant’ juice. In order to do this pick the currants and put them into an earthen jar.’ ‘Cover it closely and put it into a large pan of’ ‘old water, which must be so full that it will |. reach to the top of the jar. Let it simmer for; two-hours. Drain the juice from the currants, : mix a pint of it with a pint of thick cream, ; add an ounce and ahalf- of melted gelatine: and some sugar. Pour the mixture ‘into’ a' mould, and set it in a cool place to stiffen. . Currant, Red, Cream (another way). ’ —Puts, small jar of red currant-jelly, the juice of a lemon, half a cupful of water, and two: table-spoonfuls of sugar into a saucepan.. When the jelly is dissolved, let the mixture cool a: ‘little, then add more sugar if necessary. Time, . half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suffie cient for one quart. Currant Custard.—Express the juice from some fine fresh ripe currants. This is best done by putting them in:a jar, which must be ‘covered closely and placed ina large pan of cold water, and simmered gently until the juice flows ‘freely. Mix a pint of water with every pint of juice, add alittle sugar, and put the liquid on the fire. Mixasmall portion of ground rice smoothly with a little of the liquid while cold, and add this -gradually to the rest. Let it simmer gently, ‘stirring it constantly, until it is quite smooth | and well thickened, then pour if into cups or ‘glasses to be taken as custard. Grate a little nutmeg, and put one ratafia on the surface of each custard. The custards are the better for standing a night to stiffen. If set in some very cold place—for instance, in a tin pail plunged in ‘a tub of cold water fresh drawn from the pump —these.custards will be as pleasant to the palate in sultry weather as iced custards, without their -disadvantages. Arrowroot may be used instead of ground rice. By increasing the quantity of either ingredient, the custard may be made stiff enough to be set in a mould, and turned out before serving. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil; about two hours to express the juice. Probable cost, 8d. . Sufficient for six persons. Currant Custard (another way).—Take a breakfast-cupful of red currant-juice, ex- pressed'as in the last recipe. Pour it when hot upon a quatter-of a: pound ‘of loaf sugar, and stir it tillthe sugar is dissolved. Put it into a saucepan, and:add to it very gradually the well- beaten yolks of four eggs. Stir it over a moderate fire till it begins to thicken, then pour it.out:and continue to stir till nearly cool, | when a cupful of cream must be added. Serve in. custard glasses. Time to simmer, a few minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for six or eight glasses, each one three-parts full. Currant Dumpling.—Make a light suet crust (sce Crust, Suet). Before moistening it mix half a pound of dried currants with every pound of flour. Add milk to make a light batter, and. boil either in one large dumpling tied in a floured cloth, or in half a dozen without cloths. In the latter case the dumplings should be dropped into boiling water, and be looked after at first to see that they do not stick to the pan. Serve with Jemon-juice and sugar. Time to boil, one hour and a half with a cloth; half an hour without. 'The dumplings will rise to the top when done enough. Probable cost, 10d., for half a dozen small dumplings. Currant Fool.—Strip some fresh, ripe red currants from the stalks, and stew them gently with three table-spoonfuls of sugar to every ‘pint of fruit. Press them through a sieve, ‘and -when nearly cold mix with them finely-grated: bread-crumbs and cream or new ‘| milk. ‘Time to stew.the currants, half an hour. Probable ‘cost, 6d, Sufficient for four or six persons. Currant Fritters.—Whisk three eggs ‘thoroughly, and mix with them gradually six -table-spoonfuls of fine flour and a,pinch of salt. Beat the mixture until quite smooth, then add CUR (172) CUR one pint of milk. Put a little lard or dripping into a frying-pan. When quite hot, stir a hand- ful of picked and dried currants into the batter, and drop it into the pan in fritters about the size of a penny bun. Three or four may be cooked together, but they must be kept apart. ‘When lightly browned on one side turn them over on the other. Drain the fat from them, and serve them on a hot napkin. ‘Time to fry, a few minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Suffi- cient for four persons. Currant Fritters without Eggs.— Mix a pint of mild ale with as much flour as will make a thick batter. Take care that it is perfectly smooth and free from lumps. Add a few currants, a little sugar and grated nutmeg, and fry as in the last recipe. Sufficient for four persons. Time to fry, a few minutes. Probable cost, 5d. Currant Jam, Black. — Take equal weights of pounded lump sugar and picked fruit. Put the fruit in the preserving-pan, and pour into it two table-spoonfuls of water for every pound of fruit; boil and skim. When the fruit has boiled for twenty minutes, add the sugar. Stir the fruit well to keep it from burning, and boil it half an hour longer, counting from the time when it simmers equally all over. Puta spoonful of the juice and fruit to cool upon a plate. If the juice runs off, the jam must be boiled longer, if it jellies it is done enough. The jam will not keep unless the fruit was gathered when dry. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, a pound of fruit with sugar for a pound of jam (sce also the close of the recipe Currant Jelly, Black). Currant Jam, Black (superior)—Boil two pounds of black currants until the juice flows freely. Put the fruit through a sieve, leave behind whatever will not pass through. Boil the pulp for five or six minutes, lift it from the fire, and stir into it a pound of powdered loaf sugar. Boil it again until it thickens, and pour it into jars for use. Time to boil the pulp with the sugar, a quarter of an hour. |"p Probable cost, currants 4d. per quart. Currant Jam, Red and White.— Take some fine ripe red or white currants; let, them be gathered on a dry day, and be sure that they are fresh and free from dirt. Strip them from ‘the stalks, and weigh them with an ‘equal weight of finely-pounded loaf sugar. Let them remain on the fire exactly nine minutes after boiling. Pour the jam into jars, and cover it with brandied papers, and put over these tissue-paper dipped in gum. There is no economy in using a smaller proportion of sugar, as the jam requires to boil so much longer that the quantity is reduced sufficiently to make the difference. Probable cost, when plentiful, 4d. per’ quart. ‘Sufficient, one pint of fruit for one pound and a quarter of jam. - Currant Jelly, Black.—Draw the juice from some fine ripe black currants. In order to do this, put them, as we have told already (see Currant Custard), into an earthen jar, cover this closely, put it in a pan of cold water, and boil the fruit gently until the juice is ex- -pressed. Strain it through a jelly-bag, but do not press it, and boil it for a minute or two. Add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pint of juice, and boil ten minutes longer. If. the jelly becomes firm when a spoonful is put on a plate it is boiled enough ; if not, boil a little longer. Putit into small jars and cover closely, first with brandied papers and afterwards with gummed tissue-paper. If a larger proportion of sugar were added it would jelly sooner, but it would then be too luscious to be agreeable. in sickness. If the juice is not pressed from the currants, the latter, with the addition of a little sugar and water, will boil into a jam fit to be used for kitchen and nursery puddings, but it will not keep :long. Probable cost of currants, 4d. per quart. About one pint of juice may be obtained from two quarts of fruit. ‘Currant Jelly, Red.—Red currant jelly may be made in the same way as black, re- membering only that one pound of sugar Will be required for one pint of juice. The flavour may be improved by the addition of a few raspberries, and both the flavour and colour if one pint of white currants is used with three of red. When straining the juice the fruit must not be pressed or the jelly will not be clear. Some prefer to sweeten red currant jelly by pounding loaf sugar very finely, and making it quite hot in the oven, taking care that it is not in the least dis- coloured; then mixing it with the juice which, though hot, must not boil until the sugar is dissolved. Be careful to use either a silver or a wooden spoon in making jelly; with any other the flavour will be spoilt. The jelly may be made very stiff by adding half an ounce of isinglass to each pint. of juice. The isinglass should be dissolved in a little of the juice, and put in with the sugar. Time, about two hours to express the juice. Probable cost of currants, 4d. per quart. Three pints of fruit will pro- bably yield one pint of juice. Currant Jelly, White.—This jelly may e made in the same way as the last, or the fruit may be bruised and the juice strained through a jelly-bag. It must not ‘be pressed, or the jelly will not be clear. The fruit which is left in the bag may be boiled into. nursery preserve. Allow one pound of sugar to every pint of juice. Put both into a preserving-pan, stir the liquid until it boils, and boil for six minutes. When pounded sugar is used for jellies it should be prepared at home. That which is bought at the shops may be adulte- rated, and then the colour of the jelly would be spoilt. If it is wished to have the jelly very stiff, half an ounce of isinglass may be used for every pint of juice. It should be dissolved in a little of the juice and put in with the sugar. Three pints of currants will probably yield one pint of juice. Probable cost of cur- rants, 6d. per quart. : Currant Liquor.—Put black currants with an equal quantity of leaves into a jar, and cover them with rectified spirits of wine. Let them soak for seven or eight weeks, then strain the liquid through a linen bag, and mix with it a syrup made by boiling one pound of sugar CUR (178 ) CUR with half a pint of water. The syrup should be added while hot. Probable cost, currants, 4d. per quart when plentiful. As much spirit should be poured over the fruit as will cover it, and half a pound of sugar should be allowed to every pound of fruit. Currant Lozenges, Black.—Put threo quarts of ripe black currants, perfectly free from dust, into a preserving-pan, and let them simmer gently until the juice flows freely, assisting its flow by bruising the fruit with a wooden spoon. Squeeze the fruit through a sieve, and press it to obtain as much juice as possible. Return the hee to the pan, with a quarter of a pound of rown sugar to every pint of juice. Let it boil for three-quarters of an hour, and a few minutes before taking it off, add half an ounce of dis- solved isinglass for every quart of juice. Pour the paste rather thinly over plates, and put it before the fire for three days to dry. Put the cakes into a tin box with a little white paper between each, and cut them into lozenges, as required. Probable cost of currants, 4d. per quart. Currant Pancakes.—Put the thin rind of a lemon into a saucepan with a pint of milk, and let it stand by the side of the fire for some time to draw out the flavour. When this is extracted, put with the milk two ounces of butter and two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and when the butter is melted, put the milk on one side to cool. Mix eight ounces of flour very smoothly with six well-beaten eggs and two table-spoonfuls of water, add a pinch of salt and a table-spoonful of brandy, and afterwards the cooled milk. Melt a little butter or lard in’ the frying-pan; when quite hot, pour in sufficient batter to cover it thinly, immediately strew a few dried and picked currants over it, loosen the edges, brown the pancake on both sides, and serve with a little sugar and lemon- juice. Time, a few minutes to fry. Allow one for each person. Probable cost, 1s. 2d., exclu- sive of the brandy. : Currant Paste.—Put any quantity of ripe currants, either red or white, or a part of each mixed, into a hair sieve; press out three parts of the juice, and put it aside for making jelly. Rub the rest of the fruit with the juice through the sieve, and boil it, stirring it con- stantly, till it is dry. Add half a pound of sugar for each pound of the original weight of fruit, and boil twenty minutes‘ longer. Be careful not to let the paste burn, Put it into jars, and store for use. Currant Pudding, Black, Red or White.—Cut a piece of bread about an inch thick, the size and shape of half a crown. Place it at the bottom of a round basin, and put some fingers of bread, either crust or crumb, in an upright position round it, leaving a dis- tance of an inch between each finger. Boil a pint and a half of currants stripped from their stalks, with a quarter of a pound of sugar. When the juice flows freely, put it and the fruit gently into the mould, a spoonful at a time, and the more solid part first, so as to keep the bread __ inits position. Cover the top thickly with little Sippets of bread, place a plate over the top, and over that a weight to squeeze in the juice, and leave the pudding till cold. Turn it out before serving, and send a little custard or cream to table with it. Stale bread may be used for this pudding. Time, half anhour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the custard, Sufficient for five or six persons. Currant Pudding, Boiled, Black, Red, or White.—Line a plain round mould which has been well buttered with a good suet crust (see Crust, Suet for Puddings). Put in the currants, stripped of their stalks, and allow a quarter of a pound of moist sugar for a quart of currants. Place « cover on the top, make the edges very secure, so that the juice cannot escape, and tie the pudding in a floured cloth. Put it into boiling water. A few raspberries or strawberries are an agreeable addition. Time, two hours and a half to boil. Probable cost of currants, about 4d. per quart. Sufficient for five or six persons. Currant Salad.—Pick equal weights of white and red currants, strawberries, and cherries, and place them in alternate layers on a high dish. Strew a little white sugar on each layer, and pour over the whole some thick cream, or place little lumps of Devonshire cream at short distances from each other upon the fruit. Time, a quarter of an hour to pre- pare. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, a half pound of each fruit for a good dish. Currant Sauce for Sucking Pig.— Wash, and pick one ounce of currants. Boil them in half a pint of water for a few minutes, and pour them over a cupful of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Let them soak for a while. Beat them well with a fork, and stir them into . a cupful of good melted butter: Add two tables spoonfuls of the brown gravy made for the pig, a gilass of port, anda pinch of salt. Stir the sauce over the fire until it is quite smooth. Sometimes currants are simply washed and dried, and sent in on a dish with the pig. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. per pint, exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a small pig. Currant Sauce for Venison.—The currant sauce which used to be served with venison is the same as that given in the last recipe as intended for sucking pig. Currant Shrub, White or Red.— Put two quarts of red or white currants into a jar. Cover it closely, and place it in a large pan of cold water. Let it simmer gently until the juice flows freely. Then strain the juice, and allow six ounces of loaf sugar, and a quart of rum to every pint of juice. The sugar should be stirred until dissolved in the warm liquid, and the spirit added afterwards. Strain. and bottle for use. ‘Time, one hour and a half or two hours to draw out the juice. Sufficient for three pints of shrub. Probable cost of currants, 4d. per quart. rant Syrup.—Take three pounds of ian ied three af wie currants: A pound of cherries or a pound of raspberries would be an improvement, but they can be dispensed with. Bruise the fruit slightly, and put it into an earthen jar. Cover this closely, put it into a CUR (174) CUR saucepan of cold water, and let the fruit simmer gently until the juice flows freely. Strain it once or twice if necessary, and leave it until the next day in some very cool place, being careful to guard it from dust. If the juice is very clear it may then be poured off, leaving any sediment at the bottom of the vessel. Weigh the juice, putit into a clean saucepan, and add an equal weight of good sugar broken into small pieces. ' Let: it simmer, and stir it to prevent the sugar sticking to the bottom, but do not let it boil. Remove the scum carefully, and when no moré rises, put the syrup into an earthen jar tocool. Intwelve hours it may be put into small-sized dy bottles, corked and sealed, and‘stored in a cool but dry place. This delicious preparation, retaining as it dods so completely the flavour of the fruit, is most useful’ for making isinglass jelly and sauce for sweet’ puddings; when mixed with cold water it makes a refreshing summer drink, and is especially suited to invalids. It is also very nice ‘poured over or round blancmanges or rice moulds. Time, two days. Probable cost of currants, 4d. to 6d. per quart. We Currant Water (a refreshing summe drink).—Mix a quart of red currants and a cupful of raspberries. Bruise them well; pour over them two quarts of cold water, and add half a pound of loaf sugar. Put them into a preser- ving-pan, and when they begin to simmer, take them off, put with them a little writing-paper soaked in water till it is reduced to a pulp, to assist the clearing, and strain the liquid through a jelly-bag. Add as much sugar as is agreeable to the taste, and serve in glass jugs. Time, half an hour. Probable cost of currants, 4d. to 6d. per quart. Sufficient for three quarts of water. Currant Water (another way).—Dis- solve a dessert-spoontul of red or white currant jelly in a tumblerful of warm water. Let the liquid get quite cold, then add about ten grains of tartaric acid. This and other cooling summer drinks should be taken in moderation, as they are by no means wholesome. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, 2d. per glass. Currant Water Ice.—Get one pint of the juice of red currants, to which have been added a few raspberries to give additional colour. Add a pound and a half of sugar boiled to a syrup with one quart of water, and mix the juice thoroughly with the syrup. Strain the liquid into, the mould and freeze. | Time, half an hour to draw, out the juice. Sufficient for three pints of ice. (See also Currant Cream Ice.) Currant Wine, Black.—Take six quarts of black currant juice; mix it with six quarts of cold water and twelve pounds of moist sugar. When the sugar is dissolved put the liquor into a°cask, which must be kept in a warm, room. It will ferment without enything else being added to it. A little of the liquid should be kept with which to fill up the cask when the fermentation is over, and the wine has been, well skimmed... Before closing the cask, add one quart of brandy. Currant wine should not be bottled for twelve months, and will be im- ' cost of currants, 4d. to 6d. good for several years. Probable cost of cur- rants, 4d. to 6d. per quart. ‘ Currant Wine, Red.—Take three gal- lons of ripe red currants, pick from the stalks, bruise them and press out the juice, and infuse the residue in four and a half gallons of cold water. Mix well and repeatedly to insure equal diffusion; press out the liquor, qnix it with the juice, and add fourteen pounds of loaf sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, transfer the whole to a cask large enough to leave some space unfilled, put in'the bung and bore a hole through it with the gimlet, and allow the cask to stand where the temperature is not less than seventy degrees, for a month. By that time the fermentation will have greatly de-- creased. Add three pounds of sugar, dissolved in two quarts of warm water, shake the cask well, and bung it as before. In about six or eight weeks, on listening at the bunghole, your ear will’ inform you that. fermentation has ceased, then rack off the clear liquor from the sediment, and mix with it a quart of the best French brandy. Set it by im the cellar for about two months, when the liquor is again to be racked off into a clean but not new cask, which should be quite filled; it must-now be tightly bunged down, so as to exclude the air perfectly, and be preserved for three or four years ata temperature of seventy degrees. When neces- sary the cask should be for this purpose kept near a fire. Time, about three months to cement. Currant Wine, White.—White currant wine may be made in the same way as red, with two ounces of bruised bitter almonds mixed in the fermenting liquor. : Currant Wine from Unripe Fruit. —Currants may be used for making wine before they are quite ripe. They should be bruised sufficiently to burst the berries, and have the water poured over them: the sugar may be intro- duced at once. If this is done the wine will be strong and highly flavoured, though not very sweet. ‘The wine must be well strained before it is put into the cask. The'same proportions may be allowed for this wine as for black cur- rant, and the same directions may be followed. The only difference will be that greater care will be required in separating the stalks from the fruit. _ Currants, Compéte of.—Pick a quart of ripe red. and white currants quite free from dust. Put half a pound of loaf sugar and a breakfast~ cupful of cold water into a saucepan. Simmer the syrup gently for a quarter of an’ hour, then put in the currants, and simmer them for ten - minutes longer. Put the fruit into a compdte dish, pour the syrup over it, and serve ‘cold. Currants prepared thus are excellent served with blancmange or a rice mould. Probable per quart. Sufficient for a: good-sized dish. , Currants, Iced,—Whisk the white of an ege thoroughly until firm, then mix ‘it with three dessert-spoonfuls of cold water. Dip. into this, exceedingly fine bunches of ripe red and white currants, one bunch at a time. proved if kept even longer. This wine will be | Let them drain for a minute, then roll them CUR (175 ) CUR in finely-pounded white sugar, and lay them carefully on sheets of paper to dry. The'sugar will crystallise on the currants, and will have a very good effect. A pretty dish may be mhade by icing in this way different coloured fruits suitable for dessert, and arranging them taste- fully on a dish. Time, four or five hours to crystallise. Currants, To Bottle, for Tarts in Winter.—Ascertain that the fruit has been gathered when it was quite dry or it will not keep. Pick it and put it into clean, wide- mouthed, dry bottles. A few strawberries or raspberries may be added or not. Cover the fruit with water. Soak some bladder in water, tie a little firmly over the top of each bottle, and wrap a little hay round the bottles; then put them into a pan of cold water, and let them stand upright without touching one another; the water should reach nearly to the necks of the bottles. Put the pan on the fire, and when the water is on the point of boiling, draw it to one side, and let it remain for half an hour. The bottles should not be taken out of the water until it is nearly cold. Tie strong paper over each bottle, and keep them in a bottle-rack in a cool, dry place, with the necks downwards. |. The fruit will keep good for years. The water must not boil. Shake the fruit well down, or the bottles will not be more than half full. Currants, To Clean.—The best way to clean dried currants is to rub a handful of flour into them; then put them into a colander, shake it well to get rid of the stalks, and after- wards pour over the currants a little cold water. on a dish, look them carefully over to see that no small stones are amongst them, put them on the hearth at a little distance from the fire, and let them gradually dry. If placed too ne, so as to dry very quickly, they will be rd. “s Currants, to Keep, for Tarts.—Gather the fruit when it is quite and not over-ripe, pick it from the stalks, and put it into a large dry earthen jar, with a quarter of a pound of moist sugar to each pound of fruit. Put it in a good oven and bake it for twenty minutes. Warm some preserving jars, be sure that they are quite dry, and fill them with the fruit. Tiea bladder over them immediately and store them in a dry place. They will keep good through the winter if they are not opened, but they require to be used when the cover has once been removed. Probable cost of currants, 4d. to 6d. per quart. Cc .—This favourite dish, especially a favourite with those who have resided in India, is often rendered unpalatable by the same curry seasoning being used for every dish, however differently may be the viands of which it is com- posed. It must be evident that the same flavouring will not be suitable for a curry of chicken, of fish, or of calf’s head. The season- ing should always be adapted to the character of the meat, and, if it can be ascertained, to the taste of those who have to eat it. The first thing to be attended to is to have good stock, secondly, suitable seasoning, and thirdly, plenty of properly prepared rice, for the rest of the dish is only intended to serve as a sort of relish to this most important part of it. The meat, whether cooked or otherwise, should be cut into small convenient-sized pieces, and fried in ‘hot butter until lightly browned, with sliced onions and mushrooms, or mushroom powder. A little good stock should then be added, which, after simmering a little while, should be thickened, with curry powder, curry paste, and, if liked, a little ground rice. The boiled rice should be piled round the dish. Though fresh meat is always to be preferred as being more juicy, yet cold meat is excellent warmed up as a curry; and it should be remembered that it does not -require so much stewing as fresh. ‘When other proportions are not given, a tea- spoonful of curry powder, a tea-spoonful of curry paste, a tea-spoonful of ground rice, and a breakfast-cupful of gravy may be allowed for every pound of meat. The: addition of a sour apple, or a little grated cocoa-nut, or tomatoes, or cucumbers, or green gooseberries (seeded), or spinage, will greatly improve various curries. It must be remembered that the vege- tables are to be stewed in the gravy until they have imparted their flavour to it, then passed through a sieve, and returned to the curry. Curry, Calcutta.—Cut up a young chicken, either cooked or raw, into convenient- sized pieces. If home-made curry powder. is preferred it may be made by pounding together and mixing thoroughly a table-spoonful of coriander seed, a table-spoonful of poppy seed, ‘a salt-spoonful of turmeric, half a salt-spoonful of red chilli, half a salt-spoonful of cumin seed, Press the currants in a soft cloth and lay them ‘half a salt-spoonful of ground ginger; and a salt-spoonful of salt. Ctenerally speaking, how- ever, excellent curry paste and powder may be purchased of respectable dealers for as little as the ingredients would cost. Mix this smoothly with a quarter of a pound of butter, and fry two sliced onions in it till lightly browned. Then fry the chicken. Add the milk of a cocoa-nut, and simmer all gently together for a quarter of an hour. Stir in the juice of .a small lemon, and serve with rice. Time, three- quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 8s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Curry Gravy.—Make a powder by mixing together two table-spoonfuls of ground rice with a salt-spoonful of pepper, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs dried. and powdered. Cut two pounds of veal into pieces about an inch and a half square and half an inch thick, Dip them in hot butter, then in the powder, and fry them in butter till lightly browned on both sides. Melt a little butter: over the fire, and fry in it six large onions and two apples sliced. When tender rub them through a sieve, and mix smoothly with the pulp a table-spoonfui of curry paste, a table- spoonful of ground rice, a tea-spoonful of curry powder, and as much nicely-flavoured stock as is required. Stir the sauce over the fire, and put the fried meat into it. Simmer gently for forty minutes. Just before serving, squeeze over it the juice of a lemon. When the flavour is liked, a quarter of a clove of garlic may be stewed with the meat. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. CUR (176 ) “CUR Curry, Kebobbed. — Kebobbed or cubbubed curry very much resembles any other, the difference being that half the meat consists of pork, either fresh or pickled, and that the pieces are run through with small skewers about four inches long, before being cooked, and by means of them are fastened to the jack and basted well during cooking. They are first dusted with curry powder. The sauce is made by frying until tender a small acid apple, a clove of garlic, and two small onions, then pressing them through a sieve, and mixing with them a table-spoonful of curry powder, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and the same of pepper. The paste should be mixed smoothly with a cupful of gravy, and simmered gently with the meat until tender. A bay-leaf may be stewed with the gravy. The juice of a lemon should be added before serving. Simmer for half an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for four or five persons. Curry Liquid, Essence of.—Put three ounces of powder (see Curry Powder) into a quart of strong vinegar. Let it remain for a fortnight, then strain off the clear liquid,, and put into bottles for use. Cork closely. Pro- bable cost, 1s. A dessert-spoonful will flavour _ half a pint of sauce or gravy. Curry, Madras.—Slice one large or two small onions, and fry them in three ounces of butter till they are lightly browned. Mix a dessert-spoonful of curry powder, a dessert- spoonful of curry paste, and a tea-spoonful of ground rice smoothly with the butter, and add a salt-spoonful of salt, and a breakfast-cupful of good gravy. Cut about one pound of meat, either fowl, rabbit, veal, or beef, into conve- nient-sized pieces, about one inch and a half square. Put these in with the gravy, and simmer gently for forty minutes. Remember to stir it every few minutes. A little rasped cocoa-nut, or the strained juice of a lemon, or an acid apple, is an improvement to the curry, which should be served with a border of rice round the dish. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Suffi- cient for four persons. Curry, Malay.—Take two ounces of blanched almonds. Fry them in three ounces of butter till they are lightly browned, but do not let them burn. Drain, and pound them to a smooth paste with the rind of a small lemon, and a sliced onion. Cut a young chicken into convenient-sized pieces, and fry them in the butter. Drain them. Mix a table-spoonful of curry powder, and a heaped salt-spoonful of salt, very smoothly with the butter. Add gradu- ally a cupful of gravy, put in the chicken and «ste, and simmer for half an hour, then add ¢ cupful of cream. Let the curry nearly boil, and just before serving squeeze the juice of a small lemon into it. Time, altogether, one hour. Probable cost, 48. Sufficient for four or five persons. Curry of Vegetables.—A palatable dish may be made by currying green vegetables such as cabbages, cauliflowers, green peas, beans, vegetable-marrow, spinach, or sorrel. They mayybe cooked separately, or one or two Einds together. Cut them into small shreds. Fry them in hot butter, which has been mixed with a liberal allowance of curry powder, and a little salt, and when lightly browned cover them with cream, new milk, or good gravy. A sliced onion may be added, or not, according to taste. Let them simmer till sufficiently cooked. Just before serving, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and send rice to table with them. The time which this dish will require will vary with the nature of .the vegetables. Probable cost, about 1s. 6d. for a moderate-sized dish. Curry Pimento.—Cut a fowl into joints. Mix a table-spoonful of curry powder with halt a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and a pinch of salt. Rub this well into the pieces of fowl, and stew them gently in a breakfast-cupful of good nicely-tlavoured stock. Let them simmer gently for half an hour, and before serving squeeze in the juice of a small lemon. Serve on a hot, dish with half a pound of rice boiled, and piled round. Time, altogether, three-quarters of an . hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. Probable cost, 3s. Curry Powder.—Curry powder consists of turmeric, black pepper, coriander seeds,. cayenne, fenugreek, cardamoms, cumin, ginger, allspice, and cloves; but the three latter are often omitted. The seeds should be ground in a mill, and mixed with the powder, and when made it should be kept in a bottle closely stop- | ped. A spoonful of cocoa-nut ‘kernel, dried and pounded, gives a delicious flavour to a curry, as does also acid apple. A recipe for making curry powder has already been given (see Curry, Calcutta), and we give another in the following paragraph, but we think it will be found quite as satisfactory and economical to purchase curry powder of a first-class dealer as to make it at home. 2 Curry Powder (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). Put six ounces of coriander seed, five ounces of turmeric, two ounces each of black pepper, and mustard seed, half an ounce of cumin seed, half an ounce of cinnamon, and one ounce of lesser cardamoms, into a cool oven for a “night. Pound them thoroughly in a marble mortar, and rub them through a sieve. Keep the powder in a well-corked bottle. Probable cost, 3s. “Suffi- cient, one table-spoonful of curry powder to a pound of meat, and a cupful of gravy. Curry Sauce.—To make curry sauce quickly, mix a dessert-spoonful of curry paste or powder smoothly with half a pint of melted butter. Time, ten minutes. Sufficient for a small dish of curry. Probable cost, 4d. _ Curry, To Boil Rice for.—Patna rice is the correct rice to use for curries, but it is not of so good a quality as Carolina, and, besides, it cannot always be obtained. The thing to be attended to is to have each grain of rice distinct and unbroken, and at the same time quite tender. This can be attained quite as easily with Caro- lina, as with Patna rice, but the former will require boiling a few minutes longer than the latter. Wash the rice in several waters. Pick out every discoloured and unhusked grain, and boil it in plenty of cold water. This is the secret of having the rice whole. The water will keep CUS (177) CUS the grains separate. Leave the saucepan un- covered. Bring the water slowly to a boil. Shake the pan occasionally to prevent burning, but do not stir the rice at all, When it has simmered ‘gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes it will most likely be tender. Patna rice will not require so long. Drain it in a co- lander, and let it dry gently before the fire. Serve it round the curry. Probable cost, 4d. per pound.. Sufficient, half a pound of rice for a moderate-sized dish of curry. Custard.—It should be remembered that custard must not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added to the milk. If it does it will curdle, and be lumpy, ‘The best way is to put it into w jug, and place this jug in a large saucepan of cold water, which must be put on the fire until the custard thickens, stirring it all the time. The yolks only of ‘the eggs are required for custard. The whites may be set aside and used for other purposes. Custard (4 la Reine).—Sweeten, flavour, and boil a breakfast-cupful of thick cream, add a tiny pinch of salt, and stir in the well- beaten yolks of six eggs. into a jug, and set the jug in a saucepan of cold water. Stir it one way until it thickens. Just before serving flavour it with four table- spoonfuls of maraschino and sweeten it to taste. Time, a quarter of an hour to thicken. Pro- bable cost, 2s., exclusive of the maraschino. Sufficient for a pint and a quarter of custard. Custard Baked in a Crust.—Line a pie-dish with a good crust, and put it in the oven until it is three-parts cooked. Make a custard as in the last recipe, using milk m- stead of cream, but do not put quite so large a proportion of milk, to insure its being quite stiff. Bake it gently, and when the custard is set it isdone enough. Keep it ini a cool place. Turn out before serving. Time, three-quarters ofan hour. Probable cost, 1s., for a moderate- sized dish, large enough for four or five persons. Custard, Boiled.—-Simmer in a well- lined saucepan a pint each of milk and cream, with a laurel-leaf, and the thin rind of half a lemon. Strain the liquid for half an hour, and put it on again with three ounces of sugar. Beat well the yolks of six eggs, and add them gradually to the milk, stirring it carefully and steadily until it thickens. It must not boil, or it will curdle. Pour it into a large jug, and add a glass of brandy, still stirring it until it has cooled a little. Fill cups and serve. Pro- bable cost, 2s. 4d., without brandy. Custard, Boiled (cheap).—Simmer three pints of milk for half an hour in a well-lined saucepan, with lemon or cinnamon to flavour . the liquid. Strain it and add a table-spoonful of ground rice or arrowroot smoothly mixed in half a wine-glassful of cold milk. Beat up the yolks of three eggs and add them, with three ounces of sugar, to the rest. Stir the custard gently and steadily till it thickens, but do not boil it or it will curdle. This is a good custard for puddings. Probable cost, 11d. If served in cups, sufficient for twelve. Custard, Cherry.—Make a rich custard (see Custard & la Reine). Put six or eight 12—n.z. Pour the mixture. macaroons at the bottom of a glass dish, and over these lay a cupful of cherries which have been used for making cherry-brandy, with their juice. When the macaroons have ab- sorbed the juice, pour the custard over them, and garnish the dish with macaroons and cherries. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the cherry-brandy. Suffi- ‘cient for a good-sized dish. Custard, Common.—Put a pint of milk into a clean saucepan, with a piece of thin lemon-rind or half an inch of stick cinnamon. Let it simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, till it is pleasantly flavoured. Mix a tea- spoonful of arrowroot, ground rice, or flour very smoothly with three table-spoonfuls of cold milk. Add the yolk of an egg well beaten, and strain the hot milk upon them. Place it on the fire for a few minutes to thicken, stirring it all the time. A dessert-spoonful of brandy is an improvement. Probable cost, 4d. Suffi- cient for a pint of custard. Custard, Excellent.—Puta pint of new milk, and half a pint of good cream into a saucepan, with a bay-leaf, the thin rind of a lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of sifted sugar. Simmer the liquid gently for twenty minutes. Then strain it, and add to it gradually the well.beaten yolks of five eggs. Pour the mixture from one jug to another for a minute or two. . Then place it in one of the jugs ina saucepan of warm water. Put this on the fire, and stir the custard until it thickens. Pour it out; add a wine-glassful of brandy, and con- tinue stirring until the custard is cold. Serve in glasses, and put a ratafia on the top of each custard. Time, altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for nearly a quart of. custard. ; Custard, Lemon, without Milk or Cream.—Put three ounces of loaf sugar, the thin rind and strained juice of two lemons, and a pint of hot water into a basin. Let it stand for three-quarters of an hour, or until the flavour of the lemon-rind is extracted. Thoroughly beat the yolks of four eggs. Mix them with the water, first straining it, and put it on the fire to thicken for ten minutes. It must not boil. Serve in custard-glasses. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a pint of custard. Custard Marrow.—tThe custard marrow is a species of vegetable marrow, short and round, considered by many superior to ordinary marrows for delicacy of flavour. It may be boiled in the usual way or prepared as follows: Cut the marrow into slices about an inch in thickness, and score them on one side about half through. Cut a slice of fat bacon into dice, and put it.into a stewpan with a dessert- spoonful of finely chopped mushrooms, the samo of minced parsley, a small onion cut into small pieces, and a little pepper and salt. Fry these for afew minutes. ‘Turn them on a hot dish, Lay on them the sliced marrow, the scored sides downwards, and pour over them a little olive-oil. Put'the dish into a hot oven, and when the marrow is sufficiently baked, serve it as hot as possible. Time, about half an hour to bake. Probable cost, jg. each. Allow one for each person, cus Custard Mould.—Make a rich custard (see Custard 4 la Reine). When it has been thickened, and nearly cold, mix with it half an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little hot milk. Whip it well for ten minutes, then pour into an oiled mould, or into five or six smaller moulds, and send it to table, with dissolved red currant jelly poured over it. Time, twelve hours to stiffen. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suffi- cient for six or eight persons, Custard Pudding, Baked.—Take as many eggsas will when level cover the bottom of the dish in which you intend to bake the custard. Break each one into a separate cup before it is mixed with the rest, to insure the quality of the eggs. Beat them a minute or two, but not too much, or the custard will be watery. Fill the dish with milk, sweeten liberally, and add a pinch of salt. Flavour with brandy, lemon, almond, vanilla, Tose-water, orange-water, or any other flavour- ing. Stir all together. Grate.a little nutmeg on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. As soon as the custard is set it is done enough. Time to bake about half an hour. Probable cost, 9d., for a moderate-sized dish. Sufficient for four or five persons. : . Custard Pudding, Boiled. — Make a pint of custard with half a. pint of milk and three eggs. Flavour and sweeten it, liberally, or the pudding will be insipid. Put it into a buttered basin which it will quite fill, cover it with a piece of buttered paper, and tie it in a floured cloth, then steam it gently until done. Keep moving it about in :the saucepan for the first few minutes, that it may. be well mixed. It must not cease boiling after it is once put in. Serve with wine sauce or a little jam. A large pudding may be made with very little more expense by adding another egg, another half-pint of milk, and a table-spoonful of flour. Time, forty minutes to steam. Suffi- cient for four persons. Probable cost, 6d. Custard Sauce for Sweet Puddings. —WMix a pint of milk, sweetened and flavoured, with two eggs slightly beaten. Put this into a saucepan and stir it gently till it thickens, but it must not boil. Serve it in a tureen or a glass dish, and, just before serving, add a little sugar and a table-spoonful of brandy, and grate a little nutmeg over the top.. ‘This sauce is good with fruit tarts as well as sweet puddings. Time, about ten minutes to thicken. Sufficient for a moderate-sized pudding. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the brandy. Custard Tartlets.—Line some patty pans | with a good crust. Make a custard (see Custard, Baked), flavour it nicely, and three-parts fill the pans with the custard. Bake the ‘tartlets in a gentle oven. Take them ‘out, let them cool, and spread a little sugar icing over them. This is made by mixing the whites of two eggs with two ounces of pounded loaf. sugar. Strew a little more sugar on the top, and bake them in a gentle oven until the icing is crisp. If a richer tartlet is wanted, a little jam may be put under | the custard. Time, about a quarter of an hour to bake the tartlets, five or six minutes to harden (178) cuT the icing. Probable cost, 2d. each. one for each person. Custard and Syrup.—aA pretty ‘and inexpensive dish for a Children’s Party.—Make some good custard, and mix it with a little isinglass (see Custard Mould. The custard need not be sorich as the one there given.) Oilsome small cups of various sizes, fill them with the custard, and when cold and firm turn them out on'a glass dish, putting the large ones in ‘the middle and the smaller ones round them. Dis- solve a little red currant, raspberry, or goose- berry jelly with a little wine, or make a little syrup of sugar and water, flavour it with lemon, and colour it with cochineal. When nearly cold, pour this over and amongst the custards. Lay round the inside of the dish a necklace of ratafias reposing on the outer edge of the syrup. Allow | Serve each child with a whole custard,'a spoon- ful of syrup, and a couple of ratafias. Time, twelve hours to stiffen. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Custard without Eggs.—Mix one large table-spoonful of ground rice or corn flour with a little cold milk. Flavour a pint of milk with any flavouring that may be preferred, sweeten it, and pour it boiling over the rice, stirring it all the time to prevent its getting into lumps. Return it to the saucepan, and boil it two or three minutes. When cold, it may be used instead of custard for fruit tarts or stewed fruit. Time, three minutes to boil. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for one pint. ; Cutcharee Sauce, to serve with Kebobbed Meat.— Wash a quarter of a pound of split peas, and ‘boil them in a quart of water until quite soft. Pour off the water, and mash the peas, and mix with them one pound of boiled rice. Mince two onions very finely.’ Fry the onions in an ounce and a half of butter until lightly browned, stir’ them with the rice and peas, season them with a dozen pounded carda- mom seeds, six pounded cloves, half a tea-spoon- ful of powdered mace, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Put a quart of good veal stock into a saucepan, add the rice, peas, and onions, and stew the whole gently until the rice is quite soft. Stir in three ounces of oiled butter before serving. Time, between. two and three hours to boil the peas; forty minutes to stew the rice. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Cutcharee (another way).— Boil one pound of rice as if for curry. When it is done enough, mix with it three table-spoonfuls of split peas which have been soaked and boiled till tender and pressed through a sieve. Put a piece of butter the size of a large egg into a saucepan, and, when hot, fry two large sliced onions in it. Mix these with the rice and peas, and add a good. seasoning of salt, cayenne, pounded mace, and black pepper, with sufficient stock to moisten the whole, and stir the mixture over the fire till it is heated throughout. Serve it as hot as possible, with a little butter sauce. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Cutlet Bat.—A cutlet bat is used to flatten cutlets so that they can be evenly and smoothiy CUT covered with egg: and ‘bread-crumbs or -frying ‘batter. ‘The cutlets should be trimmed evenly, CUILET BAT, ‘and then struck sharply on both sides with the ‘flat side of the bat, when they ‘will be ready for the batter. Probable cost, 5s. 6d:each. — - Cutlets (i V’Italienne).—Cut two pounds, of the fillet of veal in slices about three-quarters’ of aninch thick. Shape them into round cutlets three inches in diameter, flour them well, and. fry them in hot butter until done enough. ‘When they are browned the pan should be held high above the fire,and eovered so that the cutlets. may become sufficiently cooked without being. . Serve them 6n.macaroni, which has. been stewed until, tender, and send brown‘gravy to table in atureen. The gravy should be well flavoured with fresh tomatoes, when seasonable. At other times tomato sauce may be used.. Time, a quarter of an hour to fry the cutlets. Probable cost, 1s.2d. per pound. Sufficient for four or fivé persons. BS SREB Cutlets (& la Maintenon).—Cutlets were, it: is said, first served in this way under the direction of Madame. de Maintenon,. to’ ‘tempt the failing appetite of Louis XIV. . Ac-' ‘cording to the original recipe they should be dressed en papiliéte, but as this isa difficult: ‘operation, and the paper .is almost sure to look nntidy and greasy, it would be better for ordi- nary -purp Cut and trim some cutlets. Shape them neatly, and flatten them, then dip each one in beaten’ egg, and afterwards in bread-crumbs mixed ‘with chopped parsley, savoury herbs,. salt,’ pper, and grated nutmeg. Melt some butter a frying-pan, cook them quickly in it, turn in them that they may be equally cooked through-. out, and just before serving twist some hot ‘writing paper round each. Send stewed mush-. ‘rooms to table with them, or 4 purée of sorrel, spinach, or green peas, in the middle. Time, eight minutes to fry the cutlets. Allow one for each. Probable cost, 1s. Cutlets (a la Venitienne).— Chop’ sepa- rately half a pint of mushrooms, two shallots, a little parsley, and a sprig of thyme... Mix them thoroughly and stew them for ten minutes over a small fire in a little butter, with aslice of fat bacon cut into dice. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over two pounds of veal cutlets, put them into the saucepan, and cook them gently till quite tender. Add a large ‘spoonful of sauce tournée. Draw the saucepan from the fire for a minute or two, then thicken the sauce with the well-beaten yolks of three eggs mixed with a little cream. The sauce must not boil after the eggs are added. Before serving, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, Time, ‘one hour.’ Probable cost, 1s. 2d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. (179 ) ‘| two oses to make. a little writing-paper hot, and wrap the cutlet in it after it is broiled. CUT Cutlets (au Jambon),—Cutlets au jambon are cooked in the same way as Cutlets & Ja Chingara (see Cutlets, Veal, a la Chingara), with the exception of ham being substituted for the tongue, ” : pane Cutlets of Lobster or Crab.—Mince very finely and pound in’ a mortar the flesh of a-small hen lobster or a crab, and season it with salt and cayenne, whilst it is being pounded. Put one ounce of butter into a saucepan, and. dredge very slowly into it one table-spoonful of flour ; when smooth add a gill of water. Stir till the sauce boils, then add a little cream, a tea-spoonful of lobster butter (see. Lobster Butter) and the pounded fish. Stir the mixture over the fire till it is quite hot, then take it out in_a. table-spoon, and lay it on a large dish. When quite cold, make it up in the shape of ‘mutton’ cutlets, brush these over with beaten egg,’ strew finely-grated bread-crumbs over them, and fry them in boiling lard or dripping till lightly browned. Stick a little bit of claw into-each cutlet,“and garnish the dish with parsley. - If oysters are used, a bit of stick may be'used instead of the'claw. Time to fry, two or three minutes. Probable cost, one’ large lobster, ‘Is, 6d, to 28. 6d. Sufficient for a large dish. © . Cutlets, Lamb (a la Dauphine).—Cut pounds of cutlets from the best end of .the neck, shape them neatly, trim off the fat ‘and skin, and leave about an inch of bone, bare. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stew- pan, Let it get quite hot, then fry the cutlets in it for a few minutes, but do not let the butter brown, Drain them, and let the butter cool;, mix with it the yolks of three eggs. Pass the cut- ‘lets through it, until they are ‘thickly covered. _Strew, bread-crumbs over them, and fry them once more... Dish them in a circle, with a purée of green peas in the middle of the dish. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. per pound, Sufficient for four or five persons. Cutlets, Sauce: ‘for:—Put an ounce of butter into a saucepan, place it over a slow fire, and mix very gradually with it an ounce of fine flour. . Let it brown slightly, then add enough boiling water to make it as thick as cream, season with salt and cayenne, and the flavour by the addition of finely-chopped gherkins, mushroom or walnut pickle, fresh to- matoes, or tomato sauce, a minced shallot, and a glass of red wine, &c. &c. Time, a few minutes, Sufficient,a quarter of a pint of sauce for one pound of cutlets. Cutlets, Veal (i la -Chingara).—Take two pounds of the best part of a fillet of veal. Cut it in neat slices not less than an inch thick, and shape these neatly, in rounds the size of the top of a tea-cup. Have a piece of cold boiled tongue for each cutlet, as nearly as possible the same size and shape. ‘Put the trimmings of the cutlets, a little piece of rasped ham, a carrot, a large onion, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a sprig of pars- ley, into a saucepan with a pint of good veal stock. Let them simmer gently for an hour or more, Strain the liquid, and put it on one side for use. ' Flour the cutlets, and fry them in hot butter till they are sufficiently cooked, but not cyG (180 ) DAM dried; plenty of butter or lard should be used, and when they are brown on both sides they should be held high above the fire for a few minutes, and covered, By this means they will be done through. Drain them from the fat, and keep them hot. Put one ounce of butter into a stewpan, dredge over it very gradually one ounce of flour, and keep stirring till it browns, but it must not burn. Mix with it the strained gravy, and any trimmings there may be of the tongue, finely minced. Warm the round pieces of tongue in this, and put one on each veal cutlet. Serve the cutlets in a cir- cular form, add salt and pepper to the sauce, if necessary, and put it in the middle. Serve as hot as possible. Time, about a quarter of an hour to fry the cutlets. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Cygnet, To Roast.—Truss this bird in the same way as a goose. Make a stuffing of three pounds of beef, fat and lean together, chop it small with three boiled onions, a quarter of a pound of butter, a table-spoonful of salt, a tea- spoonful of pepper, and a whole nutmeg grated. Pound it smoothly ina mortar, stuff the cygnet, and sew it up securely, to prevent the gravy escaping. It is generally cooked in the same way as haunch of venison, with a thick crust over it, but this is unnecessary. The gravy may be kept by covering it with paper from the outset, heating it gradually through, basting it patiently and thoroughly, and when it is nearly finished removing the paper, and bring- ing it near the fire to brown. Send it to table with a sauce made of equal quantities of strong beef gravy and port wine. Red currant jelly, hot and cold, should also be served with it. Cygnets should be roasted at or before Christ- mas, after which time they decidedly deteriorate in quality. They make a very handsome and delicious dish. Time to roast, from two to three hours. Probable cost, uncertain, the birds not being often offered for sale. Sufficient for eight or nine persons D Dabs —The dab is a small but excellent THE DAB. fish, caught mostly in rivers near the sea. The Thames furnishes a particularly good kind, which when fried or dressed in a buttered paper are very delicate. They are at their best during the latter part of autumn. Ifsoaked in salt and water before being cooked they will be much improved in flavour, and the muddy taste got rid of. Send to table with a cut lemon. ‘Dace.—This fish, like many of its class, scarcely repays the trouble of cooking. It is best fried or broiled, and when seasonable, which it is from Midsummer to nearly the end of the year, is much enjoyed by those who angle for amusement’s sake. It should be served with a sauce made of a little lemon juice and Cayenne pepper. THE DACE, Dagmar Fritters.—Make a batter of the consistency of cream with half a pound of flour, a little salt, and five well-beaten eggs. Beat it for some minutes and add a little milk, powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful each of grated lemon-peel and powdered cinnamon; then beat again and throw in an ounce anda half of candied citron cut into small pieces. Put a piece of butter into a stewpan, pour in the batter as soon as it is dissolved, and cook slowly, taking care not to let it stick to the pan. When it becomes solid and in some degree baked, take it out and place it on a dish; put more lard or butter into the stewpan, cut the paste into strips about a finger’s length, giving it a slit at each end to make it rise, which it will do very quickly, and lay them in the boiling fat. "When done, serve on a napkin, of with a layer of sifted sugar. Time, twenty minutes. Dame Jane’s Pudding.—Beat the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of five with a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. Melt four ounces of butter—by standing the basin in hot water—with half a pint of cream. ‘When cool stir in four ounces of flour, beat till smooth, and add a little more cream and the beaten eggs. Beat all well together, and bake in buttered cups. A few well-washed currants may be laid in the bottoms of the cups if desired. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Pro- bable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for ten or twelve puddings. ; Damkorf Pudding.—Stick raisins inside a mould or basin, making any pattern with them that fancy may dictate (the basin must be thoroughly well buttered and then floured, or the raisins will not begs Sprinkle finely- prepared crumbs from a French roll over the raisins, and then place thinty sliced citron uni- formly with the fruit. Pour a glass of brandy slowly over all, and another of sherry; do this DAM ( 181) DAM gently that the arrangement of fruit, &c., may not be disturbed. Add four well-beaten eges and a pint of milk sweetened to taste, and let the basin remain unmoved for an hour, then tie down securely with a cloth and boil one hour. Probable cost, without spirits or Wine, Is. Sufficient for three or four persons. Damson Cheese. — Put some sound, freshly-gathered damsons into an earthenware jar, cover it closely, and place it in a pan of cold water on the fire. Let it boil, and keep adding the water as it wastes away until the fruit is quite tender. Then, whilst they are still warm, remove the damsons, skin and stone ‘them, and press them through a coarse sieve into the juice in the jar. Put half a pound of loaf sugar, broken into small pieces, to every pound of pulp, and boil all together quickly to a stiff paste. A few of the kernels may be blanched and left in, and these will much improve the flavour. The ‘sugared fruit should be boiled until it sticks to the spoon in a mass, and leaves the pan quite dry; and if, when lightly touched, it leaves the fingers, you may know that it will keep well. Put it quickly into plates or shallow moulds; lay brandied or oiled papers over it, and cover the jars closely. Keep in a dry place. Before being served, it may be cut into shapes. Damson cheese is usually served at dessert. Time, two or three hours to draw out the juice; about two hours to boil the sugar and fruit together. Probable cost, 9d. or 10d. a four ounce jar. Sufficient, one pound of damsons for a small jar. Damson Cheese (another way).—Select ripe, sound fruit. Put the damsons into a large stone jar, and allow a quarter of a pound of sugar to every quart of fruit. Set the jar up to its neck in a vessel of boiling water, or place it ina very cool oven till the fruit is tender ; then remove the stones with a fork, and boil all together in a preserving-pan till it is a thick pulp. Add half a pound of pounded loaf sugar to each pound of fruit, and boil it again until it: leaves the uite , and is a thick mass. Be careful Coste pe orit will burn. Put it into moulds with a brandied paper over the top. Tie down, and store in a dry place. Time, two hours and a half to boil. Probable cost, 8d. to 10d. per small pot. Sufficient, one pint for a very small pot. Damson Cheese (another way).—Place the fruit unskinned ina stone jar in a saucepan of water. Set the pan over the fire, and allow it to boil until the fruit BEpee dry; take out the stones, pour off some of the liquid, and to every two pounds of fruit add half a pound of sugar; stir it well, and allow it to simmer slowly for two hours, after which, boil it quickly for half an hour. The jam may then be poured into pots, and covered so as totally to exclude the air. ° Damson Drops.—Pick the stalks from some damsons, wipe them and put them into a moderately-heated oven to bake, but do not let them burst. When sufficiently done take off the skin and remove the stone; add some crushed lump sugar to the pulp, and mix until it is a stiff paste. Drop the mixture upon paper in small quantities of uniform size, and put: them into a moderately-heated oven to dry. When sufficiently dry, take them out and tum / them down over a sieve, when, by damping the paper, the drops will fall on the sieve, and must be again hardened in a cool oven. Store them ina box with paper between each layer. They will keep a long time in this way if the air be excluded from them. Damson Jam (Bullace or Common Plum). —All fruits to be preserved should be gathered after two successive dry days, if possible. Get damsons quite ripe and freshly gathered; boil them forty minutes without sugar, then simmer and skim fifteen minutes with three-quarters of a pound of good sugar to each pound of damsons. Common sugar is thought by: some persons to be good enough for darlecoloured preserves, but they are not the most economical, as will be shown by the quantity of scum which rises to the surface. Put into pots and cover with egged paper, which readily sticks to the. pots and excludes the air. A paper dipped in brandy may be laid on the top of the jam, but it is not necessary. Store in a dry place. Pro- bable cost, 6d. to 8d. per pound pot. Damson Jam (another way). — The. broken damsons, of which there must always. be a quantity in a large gathering, will make an excellent jam (reject poor ones). Put six pounds of damsons without stones, or the stones may be removed after, into a pre- serving-pan with one pint of water, boil till the- pulp may be rubbed through a sieve, and to every pound of pulp allow one pound of sugar. The sugar must first be boiled to a syrup, and then added to the pulp. Stir the jam, and, when sufficiently boiled, test it on a plate, and store in a dry place with brandied or oiled paper, and an outside covering of tissue-paper- egged down. Allow one hour for boiling. Damson Jelly.—Take the required quan- tity of fine ripe damsons and one-third of the- quantity of bullaces., Separate the stalks from the fruit, put them into.a large stone jar, first. cutting them with a knife as they are put in. Tie down with paper, and place the jar in a. moderate oven over night. When the juice is poured off, strain, weigh, and boil it quickly for twenty-five minutes without sugar ; then add ten ounces of sugar to each pound of juice, and boil and skim until the jelly will set. During’ the whole time of boiling the jelly should be stirred. Damson Pudding.—Shred up very finely: four ounces of good beef suet, and rub it well. into half a pound of flour. Use as much water as will make a smooth firm paste, then line a. well-buttered basin, and cut a cover for the top. Fill with the damsons, and sweeten to taste. Tie: a floured cloth firmly over the top, and boil steadily two and a half to three hours. A mix- ture of apples and damsons do well together. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or seven. persons. Damson, Solid.—Skin, core, and quarter one pound and a quarter of good boiling apples,. put them into a preserving-pan with one pound. of damson juice (extracted from the fruit by DAM ( 182) DAN placing, them in « cool oven at night, or set- ting them in ajar in hot water), boil them both together for half an hour, then add three-quar- ters of a pound of good pounded. sugar, and after the. sugar has dissolved boil for another ten minutes. If the apples.are good, and the recipe carefully attended to, small;moulds of this solid fruit will help to fill up. successfully many vacancies on a supper-table. Damson Tart.—Line the edges of a tart- dish with:a crust, puff or short, according to liking, and pile the dish high with damsons, laying a small cup'in the bottom to prevent the juice running over; one pint.and a half of damsons. will require a quarter of a pound of fine moist sugar, and it should be equally placed. | amongst the fruit in the dish. Ifa short crust be: made;send the dishto table with sifted sugar over thetop, but if puff:pastry:is used, brush it over with cold water and sprinkle white sugar upon. it before putting it in the oven. Time, half to thrée:quarters ofan hour. Probable cost, 1s.. Sufficient for five or six persons... Damson Wine.—Get sound ripe fruit, | reject all that is stale and mouldy;; ‘pick off. the stalks, and to four gallons of damsons add four. gallons of. boiling water. Let them soak four or five days,. stirring, them regu- larly -every day -with the hand. Add to.| every gallon of liquor three.and a half pounds of good lump sugar, and when this.is quite dis. solved, put the. whole into. a cask. with one quart, of spirits to every thrée gallons. Put. it into a cask and let .it.. remain twelve months, when it may be bottled for use. " : Damsons Baked for Keepitg.—Fil sone large stone jats with not over-ripe damsons —none of ‘them, must ‘be crushed—and add to them half their weight in pounded sugar. Put the fruit and sugar in layers ‘into the jars. Let the oven ‘get cool, and place the jars, well covered over the top with small flat slate stones, into it.. ‘When they have. baked from. five to six hours they will be:done, and should be re- moved at once to get cold. The top should be | first covered with a round of white paper, then melted mutton suet to about one inch in thick. ness, and lastly; a piece of brown paper or bladder so secured. as to-exclude the air.. If kept | in a dry, well-ventilated room, damsons so pre- pared will keep good for three months. Damsons, Bottled.—Bullaces or damsons are valuable for ‘winter use, and, bottled like green gooseberries, make good tarts.. Put them intdé ‘wide-necked glass bottles, tie the tops over with bladder, and set them in a boiler of cold’ watér,with a little straw at the bottom. Bring the water to the boil, and then remove the boiler from’ the fire, but let the bottles remain to become cold. In a'few hours, or better, the: next day, remové the bladder, and replace it by tight-fitting corks, first filling the ‘bottles with pounded sugar. The corks should be secured’ with wax. : Damsons, Compéte of.—Make a pint of syrup in the following manner :—Take eight ounces of loaf sugar and one pint us water ; let it simmer on the fire until the sugar has melted, then throw in the white of an-egg, and take off the scum as it rises. When the syrup hag boiled fifteen minutes, drop into it, one by one, ° a quart of sound damsons, and simmer until soft, | _ COMPETE, OF DAMSONS., AS era BE Pee, uy . © ai . without breaking. them.: Remove. them. from the syrup, and boil -it again until rather thick,:. let it cool, and pour it.over the damsons which . should-have been previously arranged in a glass dish. - A glass of whipped cream is a nice.; accompaniment to: this dish.. Time to: boil,.. syrup, : fifteen. minutes; ‘damsons,’ about. five - minutes. . Probable: cost, without. cream, 1s. Sufficient for four or five persons... Se Gs Damsons, Compéte of (another ‘way).” This compote will require less’ sugar, because the fruit is of a less acid nature than some of the other varjéties of plums.’ Allow four ounces’ of sugat to half'a pint of water, Boil’ the ‘usual ‘ time, and simmer the fruit in thé’ syrup ten or twelve minutes. ‘The quantity of syrip ‘is ‘for ; one pound of damsons. ' Time, ‘ten to fifteen’ minutes to stew the damsons. " °° ** Damsons, . Preserved.—-Gather the mgons while the sun is on them, and when there has been no rain ‘for twenty-four hotira at least. They should be ‘quite ripe, whole,’ and without blemish. To each jar, containing“ one quart of fruit, allow half a pound of good. loaf sugar, and’ sprinkle it equally in the jar among the fruit, then set it in a’ véssel’ of cold water over a moderate fire and simmer, after it’ has come to @ ‘boil, fifty minutes, when the damsons will be soft, and must be allowed to get cold. Lose no time in completing the preserve. ' Untie the covers, and pour the juice’ intd a ‘pre. © serving-pan, where it may boil fifteen minutes, ' and must’ then’ be’ stiained’.over the’ fruit.’ Fasten down when cool, and store in 4 dry ‘cool - place. pe Sg ee AO oe A ne Lie Damsons, Preserved (another way).— Prick the fruit, and place jt in scalding water for about a minute, lift the frpit into a dry dish, and strew powdered sugar over it, Next day pour off the syrup, boil, and skim it, pour it again, over the fruit,.and allow it to stand for a day or two. Boil the syrup once more, add it again to the fruit, and boil both together for a short time, taking care not to break thé damsons. When ready, pour into jars, and’ when’ cold, : add brandied papers, and close carefully. Half epame of sugar is sufficient for each pound of Dandelion, Stewed,—The first mention * of this dish would perhaps inspire most English people with aversion, but we can honestly ad- vise them. to try it. It is an inexpensive dish, and easily, obtained. for fresh growths after | DAN (183) DEP showery weather may be had throughout sum- mer and winter. Gather an equal quantity of fresh dandelion and sorrel leaves. Pick off all the withered tips and hard parts of the roots; shred them into fine strips, and wash them free frota grit. “Put the dandelion by itself into a copper stewpan, cover it with a small quantity of boiling water, and stew until nearly tender ; add the sorrel, and simmer until the water has evapo- rated aiid the whole is soft. Mash with a wooden spoon; stir ina lump of butter; flavour with pepper and salt, and serve like spinach. The dish may be- garnished in a variety of ways, either: with hard-boiled eggs, sippets of fried bread, or slices of boiled’ carrot cut into shapes. It is usually served with white meats, as veal, sweet- breads; &c.; but it is excellent as a garnish for poached eggs. Some persons cook-this vegetable: without sorrel, but to our taste it is too bitter, and wants toning down. It is impossible to fix a price for the plant, as it is not a market article. It will, in all probability, be more often found on the tables of the rich than of the pdor, not from its cost, but from its peculiar taste and flavour. Dandelion Wine.—Get four quarts of the yellow petals of the dandelion, and pour over them into a tub one gallon of warm water that has previously been boiled. Stir it well round, and covér with a blanket, to stand three days, during which time it should be atved fre-' quently. Strain off the flowers from the liquid, and boil it for half an hour, with the rind of a lemon, the rind of an orange, a little ginger, and three and a half pounds of lump sugar to, each gallon; add the sugar and lemon, from which the rinds were removed, in slices to the boiling liquor, and when cool ferment with yeast on a toast. When it has stood a day or two put it into a cask, and in two months bottle. This wine is said to be specially adapted to all per- sons suffering from-liver complaints, - Darioles.—Butter the dariole moulds and line them with a thin paste made as follows :— Beat half a pound of butter toa crear. ; stir into it very gradually one pound of flour, with which three ‘ounces of fine sugar has been mixed, and’ the yolks of three and the whites of two eggs, beaten-separately. When the moulds are lined, have'ready a custard to fill them, composed of “DARIOLE MOULDS. the following ingredients :—Eight , well-beaten eggs, without the whites, six crushed maca- roons, two ounces of sugar, half a pint of cream, and half the grated rind of a small lemon. ‘These should be stirred over the fire until the custard thickens, when it is cool the darioles may be filled and baked. They will take fifteen minutes in a quick oven; they should rise like a soufflé, and be served at once with sugar strewn over, or they will fall. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient to fill twelve moulds | sete Darioles (ila Duchesse).—Proceed as bee fore directed, This recipe differs in allowing more time for baking, and requiring no boiling, .of custard. Mix half a pint of milk with. two- ounces of flour, three ounces of pounded sugar, six well-beaten eggs, and two ounces of butter into a batter, and put it at once into the moulds, first adding a little essence of vanilla, drop by drop, until the mixture is flavoured. Tho es- sence of lemon, almonds, or cinnamon may be | substituted for vanilla. “The moulds should be’ only’ three-parts filled, and from twenty-five to thirty-five minutes allowed for baking. Pro- bable cost, ‘ls. 8d. ' Sufficient for seven moulds. Dartmouth Pie.—Mince two pounds of mutton, from which all the fat has been cut, away, and ,add to. it one, pound of fincly-shred beef suet, one pound of well-washed currants,’ four, ounces of sugar, and a little salt and nut-. meg., Make a paste by boiling’ two ounces of butter with four,ounces of beef suet, and work- ‘ing it into eight ounces of. flour. Cover the mixture with this paste, and bake for an hour and a half.’ Probable,cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient, for seven or eight persons. — Date Cake (for Dessert).—Insert in place of the stones, which shduld be caréfully re- moved; blanched almonds. Line a square tin with rice-paper ; fill in layers of dates, and préss down with a weight. Turn out on a‘glass dish. Garnish with slices of orange. Probable cost, 10d. to 1s. per pound. an ; Delaville Pudding.—Take of candied peel, orange, citron, and lemon each one ounce, ‘slice them very finely; and cover’ the bottom of a dish which should: be lined with a rich puff paste. Put six ounces of good butter into a | clean saucepan, and beat into it thé same quan- . tity of finely-sifted sugar, stir it over a slow ‘fire, adding gradually the yolks of four well- beaten eggs.’ When ready to boil, pour the -mixture into the-pie-dish over the candied peel, ‘and bake slowly. Time, threé-quarters of an. hour to bake. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. oes ; Delaware Pudding.—Make.a good suet- crust"in the proportion ‘of one pound of flour to half'a pound of,suet. Prepare four large apples, take out the cores, and divide them into slices; put these into a lined saucepan with two large table-spoontfuls of sugar, a tea-spoon- ful of minced lemon-peel, and a little grated, nutmeg, .When slightly pulped, roll out the paste thin, cover it to within an inch of the margin with the apples, and strew some currants ‘on it, then roll up the pudding in a floured cloth, securing the ends properly, and boil for about two hours. Probable cost, 1s. Sutlicient for four or five persons. Ae a ' Deptford Pudding.—Peat the yolks of five eggs and the whites of three in separate basins: Put a quart of new milk into a well- lined saucepan, and stir into it, as soon as it boils,,six ounces of ,bread-crumbs,.and the rind ofa lemon grated. Sweeten, to ee ee add. to it six ounces of melted butter and the egg DER ( 184 ) DEV mixture, yolks and whites. Have ready a pie- dish, line it with puff paste, and put some marmalade at the bottom. Bake in a moderate oven. Time, one hour to bake. Probable cost, Is. 6d., without marmalade. Sufficient for eight persons. Derwentwater Cakes. — Divide four eggs, beat up the yolks and whisk the whites to a froth. Rub half a pound of good fresh butter into one pound of flour, add halfa pound of well-washed currants, and the same quantity of powdered sugar. Mix the flour with the eggs to a stiff paste. Roll and cut into small round cakes. Bake in a slow oven for fifteen minutes.’ Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for one dozen or more cakes. Dessert Biscuits.—Whip half a pound of good fresh butter toacream. If the weather be cold, place it beside the fire before com- mencing operations, but it should not oil. Stir in gradually one pound of flour and half a pound of sugar, then add. the flavouring of lemon, ratafia, cinnamon, &c., and lastly, mix all together with the beaten yolks of half a dozen eggs. Butter a paper and lay it over a cake tin, drop some of the mixture on it at equal distances, so separating the biscuits that they may have space to spread, which they will do as soon as they get warm. See that the oven is not too hot, and that they do not get highly coloured. ‘Time, twelve to eighteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Dessert Cakes.—Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to a cream, and add to it gra- dually an equal weight of finely-sifted sugar, and the same of ground rice, and as much baking powder as would cover a sixpence. Mix thoroughly, then stir in three well-beaten eggs. Pour into well-oiled tins, and bake in a good oven. Time to bake, ten minutes. Sufficient for one dozen cakes. Probable cost, 8d. Dessert Ice Currants.—To the beaten whites of two eggs adda quarter of a pint of clear spring water, and mix them thoroughly toge- ther. Select some fine bunches of currants, red and white. Immerse each bunch separately in the mixture, and let them drip a minute, then roll them carefully in a quantity of finely- sifted sugar; let the rolling be repeated. Lay them with a space between each bunch on paper to dry and become crystallised. Devil, Dry.—Score the drumstick, giz- zard, or any other part of turkey, fowl, veal, or mutton kidney. Rub the meat to be devilled with pepper and salt, put a thick coating of made mustard over this, with as much cayenne | as liked. Broil over a clear fire. Devil Gravy.—Take three table-spoonfuls of melted butter, and the same of good gravy; add to it a dessert-spoonful of cayenne pepper, one of pounded loaf sugar, a glass of ketchup, and the same of white wine, with the juice of a iemon. Make all warm together, then pour it over the devilled turkey, goose, or fowl. Devil, Wet.—Score the leg of a roasted turkey, and fill up the cuts with a seasoning of mustard, pepper, and salt; then broil over a clear fire, and pour the following sauce, made hot, over it when sent to table. To three table- spoonfuls of gravy and one of melted butter, add a tea-spoonful each of Harvey’s sauce, mushroom ketchup, Chilli vinegar, and mustard, a large wine-glassful of port, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a little cayenne and black pepper. More seasoning may be added, but this will be best regulated by the taste of the con- sumer. Devilled Biscuit.—Make a seasoning of cayenne, anchovy paste, salt, and curry powder ; butter some captain’s biscuits, lay the mixture over and grill, or make a paste of cheese, mus- tard, and salt, and spread over when toasted. Butter unsparingly. Time, from five to ten minutes. Probable cost, 1d. per biscuit. Devizes Pie.—Take thin slices from a calf’s head when cold, and some of the brains, pieces of cold lamb, pickled tongue, a few slices of bacon, and some hard-boiled eggs cut neatly into rings; with these fill a pie-dish. Season with pepper, salt, cayenne, and spice; arrange the meat in layers; see that all is well-seasoned, and fill up the dish with a rich gravy. Bake in a slow oven, with a cover of flour and water paste, and remove when cold. The pie must then be turned out on a dish. Garnish with parsley and pickled eggs sliced.. Time to bake, one hour. Devon Cakes.—Rub half a pound of good fresh butter into one pound of flour, beat up an egg and mix it with half a pint of milk, and sweeten the milk with a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar. Mix the flour and milk together into a paste, and roll it out thin to be cut into any shapes liked. Bake on tin plates in a quick oven,'with grated loaf sugar over for ten minutes, Probable cost for this quantity, 1s. 4d. Devonian Pudding.— Put a pint of ' milk into a saucepan, and stir into it gradually two table-spoonfuls of fine flour until it boils. When it thickens slightly, pour it into a basin to cool. Mix in a separate dish the whites of two eggs and the yolks of four well beaten, the rind of a small lemon grated, cight ounces of sugar, and three ounces of butter previously beaten toacream. Blend this thoroughly with the mixture of milk and flour. Pour intoa well-buttered ‘pie-dish, round which has been placed an edging of puff paste, and bake in a quick oven for twenty-five minutes. When ready, dust pounded sugar over it, and serve hot. It may also be used cold. Probable cost, 1s. Devonshire Brandy Pudding.—Take the remains of a cold plum pudding, cut it into long strips half an inch thick, and steep them in brandy or rum for a few minutes. Fill a buttered mould, crossing them neatly and uniformly one over the other. Prepare a cus- tard of five eggs, a pint of milk, and a flavour- ing of lemon and nutmeg; pour as much of this into the mould as will quite fill it, and send the remainder to table poured over the pudding A floured cloth must be tied over the mould and it should be kept boiling for one hour Sufficient for four or five persons. DEV ( 185 ) DOR Devonshire Buns.—Prepare a quantity of flour as directed in the recipes for buns, but instead of milk use Devonshire cream, which if too thick, should be diluted with warm water or milk, care being taken that the dough fer- ments in the usual way. If in doubt, prepare the dough first, and add cream as you would butter, and bake in the ordinary way. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 1d. each, Sufficient for eighteen buns. Devonshire Oake.—Put four pounds of flour into an earthenware pan, and rub well into it one pound of clotted cream or butter beaten to a cream. Add three-quarters of a pound of moist sugar, one pound of currants, a | quarter of a pound of lemon-peel cut small, and a little nutmeg. Beat up two eggs, and add them to the mixture, with a pint of milk, halfa drachm of saffron steeped in boiling water, and a quarter of a pint of fresh yeast. The milk should be only moderately warm ; if too hot the cake will be heavy. Mix all together, and cover till next morning, when it will be ready to put into tins containing about a pound and a half. Bake ina quick oven for an hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient to make six cakes. Devonshire Clotted Cream. — The highly esteemed clotted cream of Devonshire is procured. by straining the milk, as it comes fresh from the cow, into large metal pans, which are placed in a cool dairy, and kept unmoved for twenty-four hours in winter and half that time in summer. It is then scalded over a charcoal fire, the time for scalding depending on the heat of the fire and the quantity of milk to be scalded; the slower it is done, the better and the thicker will be the cream. It is skimmed the following day. A great quantity of this cream is sent to the London market, where it fetches a high price. Devonshire Junket.—Mix half a tea- spoonful of powdered cinnamon with a heaped table-spoonful of pounded sugar. Pour over these a wine-glassful of brandy, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add one quart of quite new milk with a dessert-spoonful of rennet. If the milk cannot be procured fresh from the cow, heat it until it is new-milk warm. Stir it well, and let it remain until it is set, then spread some clotted cream on ‘the top, and strew sifted sugar over. Time, about two hours to set the milk. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the brandy and cream. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Devonshire Squab Pie.—Take two pounds of chops from a neck of mutton. Cut them short, and pare away some of the fat. Peel, core, and slice about two pounds of well- flavoured sour apples. Puta layer of them in the bottom of a pie-dish with a little sugar, and asprinkling of ground allspice. Place the chops next, and season with salt, pepper, and finely- chopped onion. Continue with alternate layers of apples and meat till all be used up. Make an ordinary meat crust, line the edges of the digh, and cover over the top, adding a quarter of a pint of gravy or water. Bake in a moderate oven one hour and a half. Pro- bable cost, 28. 2d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Devonshire Syllabub.—In the country where milk is to be had pure and direct from its source, syllabubs are to be seen on every table varied with the delicious far - famed Devonshire junket. The quantity of wine in- tended to be used for the syllabub is first put into a large China bowl with sugar to taste. It is then milked on till the bowl is full, and afterwards when cold, it is covered with clotted cream. A little grated nutmeg, or pounded cinnamon (or both may be used) is sprinkled over the top when served. A pint of port and one of sherry will make a large and excellent syllabub. Devonshire White - Pot.—This is a very wholesome but old-fashioned preparation of milk and flour varied with the addition of eggs. The milk and flour are mixed to a batter, which is then put into an oven, or simply boiled, and eaten with sugar. Amore modern white- pot is made as follows:—Beat eight eggs, and add them to one quart of cream, flavour with sugar and nutmeg, and pour the mixture on some slices of fine bread. Tie down the dish with a paper, first placing bits of butter on the top. Bake in a moderate oven for an hour or more. Dombey Pudding.—Grate off the rind of a lemon with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, put it, with half.a pint of cream, in an enamelled saucepan. When hot, stir in six table-spoon- fuls of bread-crumbs, one of flour, three of finely-chopped beef suet, and one of marrow. Stir and boil the mixture for ten minutes. Throw it out into a basin to cool. Take two ounces of currants, one of sultanas, and two ounces of stoned muscatel raisins, mince the latter with two ounces of candied orange-peel, and mix all together with four well-beaten eggs, adding gradually a wine-glassful .of orange- wine, one of rum, and a little nutmeg. Stir for fifteen minutes; the pudding should then be turned into a well-oiled mould, previously de- corated according to fancy with raisins, currants, and peel, and either boiled quickly three hours, or baked in a moderate oven for two hours. Send to table with the following sauce poured over it:—Three ounces of loaf sugar, and the juice of two oranges boiled until thick, with half a wine-glassful of rum added afterwards. Pro- bable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for eight persons. Dory or Caper Sauce.—Blend two ounces of butter with one table-spoonful of flour, and stir it into a saucepan containing the third part of a pint of boiling water, add equal quantities of shrimps and capers pounded, about two dessert-spoontuls of each, and boil for some minutes; then remove the sauce- pan from the fire, and stir in till dissolved an ounce more of butter, and two tea-spoonfuls of whole capers. Serve in a tureen. iled.—Cut off the fins, and lay not fehoia Orie of cold water, salted in the proportion of three ounces of salt to one gallon of water. Let the water cover the fish, bring it to a boil gradually, and simmer till done. Be care- ful not to break the skin. This unsightly, but very excellent fish, is a near approach to the turbot in the delicacy and firmness of the flesh. It is boiled and served in the same manner as DOU ( 186 ) DUC turbot, with lobster, anchovy, or shrimp sauce, and: plain melted butter. Serve on a napkin THE DORY. neatly rolled round the edge. Time, twenty to twenty-five minutes, according to size, after, the water boils. Dough Nuts, American.—Into a pound of flour rub a piece of butter the size of an egg. Add a little pountied allspice, and two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Mix a table-spoonful of yeast with four eggs, and a little lukewarm milk. Work all well together, and put the mix- ture in a warm place to rise. Then roll it’out. about half an inch thick, cut into pretty shapes, and fry in boiling oil or lard until the nuts are a, golden brown. Drain on a moistened sieve, strew. sifted. sugar over the nuts, and keep them in a dry place. Time to fry, five to ten. minutes. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. — -Dough Nuts, American (and Nor- wegian).—Rub four ounces of butter into three pounds of fine flour; add one pound of sugar, a tea-spoonful of powdered. cinnamon, and a whole nutmeg, grated. Whisk four. eggs, and mix them gradually with a gill of yeast and as much.of a pint of new milk, flavoured with rose- water, as will make the flour into a soft: dough. Cover it up warm to rise, and when sufficiently risen make it into balls, or into any form liked, and-drop them into a saucepan of boiling lard.. ‘When of a fine brown colour they are done, and should be laid before the ;fire on a sieve to dry. It sometimes happens that the nuts are insuffi- ciently cooked in the middle. To insure their being done thoroughly, drop them into the lard as soon as it boils. Time to boil, five or six minutes. Probable cost for the.above ingre- dients, 2s. 6d. to-3s. Dover Biscuits.—Beat six ounces of fresh butter into a cream, and stir into it six ounces of fine sugar. Beat two eggs to a froth; add a table-spoonful of nutmeg. Mix the' eggs and butter together, and blend with them three- quarters of a pound of fine flour. Roll out'the paste thin, and cut into small cakes. ' Tinie to bake, twelve to eighteen minutes: Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for two dozen or more cakes. ms 1 1 | oysters, mushrooms, &c. Dowlet Pie.—To three pounds of roast. or. boiled veal, minced,add half a pound of beef suet, and, when shred very fine, three or four well-beaten eggs, part of.a small nutmeg, grated, and a little allspice. ‘Lay some of the mixture. in a pie-dish, and throw well-stoned raisins on the top; then cover the raisins with more of the mixture, and sprinkle raisins till half a pound has been used up. Bake in a quick oven, and when done pour into the pie some sweet sauce, or serve with wine sauce inatureen. Time, half to three-quarters of an hour, Sufficient for six or seven persons. : ~ Dresden Patties.—For these patties, take | off the outer crust of a stale French roll, divide ‘the crumb into slices, and then into rounds, with a tin cutter. Make the slices sufficiently thick to allow of the middle being scooped out. Dip the. croustades into milk, drain well, smear with egg, and cover with fine bread- raspings, fried in butter to a pale brown | colour. They are then filled with a compéte of fruit, or they may. be made savoury and filled’ with minced fowl, ham, and tongue, or with Tinie to fry, five minutes... , E ‘ Dripping, Clarified.—Makethedripping | hot and pour it into boiling water. Stir it for ‘three or four minutes, then leave it to get cold. The impurities will all sink to the bottom, and may. be easily removed with a knife... Dripping ‘may be used,many times for frying. purposes, - if it is clarified every time. . Every little piece ‘of fat should be melted down, and the dripping clarified. It may then be used either for fry- ing or for household pastry. In making pastry .good beef dripping is very much to be preferred to cheap common. butter. - ok _- Dripping, Potted.—Take six pounds of ‘beef dvipping;; boil it in good soft water, and ‘|. strain-into'a-pan till cold; remove it from the ‘pan, and clear off the gravy that adheres to the under part; repeat the boiling process several times, and take away the sediment. When quite , .clear, and free from gravy, put the, dripping. into 3 saucepan.with six bay-leaves, a quarter ‘of an ounce of white pepper, a few. cloves, and half-a pound of salt. “Let, it melt at, ,a very gentle heat, and when it is. hot enough to pour strain it through a sieve into the pot, and cover it over to get cold. Or it may be melted without any addition, except the salt, -and, if required for pastry, this latter mode is the preferable. Dryburgh Butter Cakes.—Rub well into one pound of the best flour eight ounces of fresh butter, and make it into a paste with - half a pint of milk and a well-beaten, egg, add- ‘ing four ounces of powdered sugar. “When the ingredients are sufficiently amalgamated, and the paste wrought into a proper consistency, roll out thin, cut into circles, dust with fine sugar,and bake on a buttered tin, in a quick on for about ten minutes. Probable cost, s. 4d. ; ; . Duchess Loayes.—Duchess loaves are very similar to petits choux, but larger and differently shape They are made as follows: Put two ounces of sugar and four ounces of butter into a saucepan, with half.a pint of milk or cold water. Let them boil, then draw the DUC (187 ) Duc pan. tothe side, and stir in five ounces of dried and sifted flour, Put the mixture again upon the fire, and stir it briskly with a wooden spoon for .three or four minutes; then add a little Jemon or orange flavouring and a well-beaten egg;,and when this is thoroughly incorporated. with the other ingredients a second egg may be added, and if itis required the yolk of a third, but the eggs must be added singly and whisked. thoroughly before they are put in, and care must, be taken that the paste is left stiff enough not to spread when it is put upon the baking sheet., Make the. paste up into small flat loaves, four, inches Jong and one inch and a half wide, and bake these on a buttered sheet until they are lightly and evenly coloured. A few minutes before they are.taken, from the oven sprinkle a. little powdered sugar, over them, and before serving open them at the side, and introduce a little jam or marmalade, Pile, them, neafly, on a.napkin before sending them to table. Pastry. of this kind should be slowly baked. Probable cost, .10d.;for this quantity. Sufficient. for.a small dish.: ; ‘ ‘Dick ‘(8 la Frangaise).—Lard. the breast of a duck with bacon, and put it on the spit before a clear fire for twenty minutes, and then into astewpan of gravy previously prepared in: the following manner :—To one pint of beef gravy add two dozen chestnuts, roasted and peeled, two onions, sliced and fried in butter, two.sage-leaves, and a sprig of thyme; pepper and salt. . When the:duck has stewed: twenty minutés put it on a dish, add a quarter of a pint of port wine to the gravy, a little butter and flour to thicken, pour it hot over the duck, and serve. Probable cost, 3s. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Duck (AY Italienne).-—Cook a.duck en braise (see Duck, Braised, with Turnips). Put two large table-spoonfills of oil into a stewpan, add a bunch of parsley, some chives and mushrooms, mince them-very finely and! stew for ten minutes,’ then thicken with flour, and pour the gravy . from the duck, and simmer for a few minutes longer. Skim and strain the whole, «which ought to be rather thick, and send to-table-with. the duck. ‘lime to braisé, three-quarters to, one-‘hour. Probable’ cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons, ee ee Duck (a Ja mode).—Take a couple of ducks, divide them into quarters, and lay them in a stewpan with a spriikling of flour, pepper, and salt. Put a large lump of butter divided into piéced at the bottom of the stewpan, and fry the ducks until they are a nice light brown colour. Remove the frying fat, and pour in half a pint’ of’ gravy, and a glass of port; sprinkle more flour‘and add a bunch of sweet herbs, two or ee ‘shallots minced fine, an anchovy, and a little cayenne. When the ducks have been stewing-in the gravy for about twenty minutes, if the stewpan has been tightly closed, they will be found done enough. Put the ducks on a-dish, take out the herbs, clear off any fat, and serve with the sauce thrown over them, Probable cost, 7s. 6d. per couple. Sufficient, a couple of ducks; for six or seven persons. .- - , iw, Duck Boiled,—“ A duck boiled is a duck _ Spoiled,” is an old proverb, but had the originator lived in the north of Wales it never would have ‘been uttered. There they boil ducks often and well, but they salt them first, and servo them .Smothéred with onion sauce. ‘Time to simmer gently, ‘thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 3s. to 4s. Sufficient for four’ or more . persons. - ae Duck, Braised, with Green Peas.—' Prepare and cook as for turnips (see the fol-" ‘lowing recipe), using green peas instead of ‘the small slices of turnips. Fry two onions in butter till they are of a pale brown, and boil’ them to'a thick sauce, with some of the gravy from the duck.’ Season with salt and pepper, and’ serve with the’peas laid under ‘the duck’ and ‘the gravy thrown over. ‘Time, one'héur’ ‘for duck; peas, ‘half ‘ain’ hour.” Probable cost,: 3s. to 4s. Usé'one quart of peas.° | ° * a 4 Watt ee RS ALR oi oh e agh tthe e g ae Duck, Braised, with. Turnips.—Pre- pare a duck as if for.roasting. Linea small pan.just. large .enough for the duck, with slices of bacon, Strew over the bottom a: little parsley, chives, thyme, arid lemon-peel. Lay. ‘in the duck, and add a carrot cut’ into ‘strips, an onion stuck with three cloves, season with pepper, and cover with stock broth and a’ glass of white wine. ' Baste frequently, and” ‘simmer an hour, or fill done. Fry some slices’ of turnip in butter to'a light brown, drain ‘and add ‘them tothe :stewpan, after removing the duck, which should’ be kept hot. When the turnips are tender remove them and strain the 'gravy, thickening if necessary with alittle flour. | ‘Put the duck on a dish, throw the hot ‘gravy over, and garnish with the turnips. Fry, the’ iturnips eight or ten minutes. Sufficient for four or five persons. |); ; Duck, Devilled (a la Frangaise).—Divide- ‘a duck down the middle, prick the flesh all over with a skewer, and ‘rub into it a mixture ‘of mustard, pepper, salt, and chutney sauce, then ‘broil or roast. Make"a’ gravy of equal’ quantitiés of rich stock, white wine, ketchup, and lemon-pickle, two. table-spoonfuls of cach,” add a little sugar, warm all togethet‘and serve ‘hot over the duck: Time, twenty to thirty” ‘minutes tobroil ns Duck-Giblet Soup.—Of duck giblets three or four sets will be required, as‘ they‘are, small, and the feet. are now left attached toa ‘duck when roasted.. Scald; four, sets, clean and cut them into pieces of an inch in length. Put them into a saucepan.with three quarts.of water, a pound of gravy beef. (or if more convenient some stock may be added. after. the giblets have “been stewed), two onions, a faggot of sweet ‘herbs, and, the rind of a, very-small Jemon. Simmer till the bones are loose and the gizzard soft, then strain the broth, season with, salt, pepper, and cayenne, and put the giblets into a tureen by the side of the fire. , Brown some thin slices of onion in butter,.and stir in, some flour to thicken, the soup; pour, the broth into the stewpan with the thickening, and stir for ‘ten minutes or fill if boils, then skim and strain into the tureen, adding one or two. glasses of, , Madeira, a dessert-spoontul of ketchup, and the DUC ( 188 ) DUC juice of a small lemon. Time to stew the giblets, three hours. Probable cost, 1s. per quart. Sufficient for ten persons. Duck, Gravy for.—Boil the giblets (omitting the liver) in a pint of water for an tour, adding to them a small onion chopped, and salt and pepper to taste. Strain, colour with a little browning, and stir up with a tea- spoonful of coratch, and the same of mushroom ketchup. Or, good stock lightly mixed with ‘browned flour may be used instead of water for doiling the giblets: and the addition of a little red wine will increase the richness of the gravy. Duck, Gravy for (another way).—Take the necks and gizzards of two ducks, a spoonful of port wine, half an anchovy, uw blade or two of mace, aslice of the end of a lemon, an onion, and a little pepper; add a pint of water, and boil to half a pint; strain through a sieve on to a spoonful of browning made of burnt sugar, and pour over the ducks. Duck, Hashed.—Divide a roast duck into joints, tale off the skin and lay the joints with some good gravy in a stewpan, add a little mixed spice, a glass of port, and a seasoning of salt and cayenne, skim from all fat, and when thoroughly hot thicken with butter and flour, and strain and serve the duck on a dish, the gravy round it, and with a garnish of bread sip- pets; or cut up the duck and boil the trimmings, adding sliced onion previously fried in butter to one pint of stock, half a tea-spoonful of chopped lemon-peel, two of lemon-juice, and a half glass of port wine. Season with salt and pepper, and when it has well boiled, skim, strain, thicken, and add it to the duck. Stew, but do not boil. Serve as before with sippets of bread as a garnish. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to stew. Sufficient for four or five persons. Duck Pie.—Previous to putting the duck into the pie-dish, boil it for about fifteen’ minutes, but first cut off the neck and wings, which should be stewed for a few minutes with the giblets in a stewpan containing two ounces of good butter, a bunch of herbs, an onion sliced, an anchovy, a blade of mace, some salt, pepper, and a drachm of cayenne. When the butter has dissolved, pour in half a pint of boiling water, and stew gently for a full hour; then strain and add the mixture to the gravy from the duck. Cut up the duck neatly, and arrange it im the pie-dish, adding more seasoning if required; skim off all fat from the gravy, which should be cold, and pour it into the dish. Cover with a puff, or any crust liked. Time, one hour to bake. Sufficient for four or more persons. Duck, Roast.—This universal favourite requires no praise. Without entering into the question of the best duck, we say at once, take a young farm-yard duck fattened at liberty, but cleansed by being shut up two or three days ‘and fed on barley-meal and water. Two small young ducks make a better dish than a large, handsome, hard-fleshed drake, which, as a rule, is best fit for a stew, or to be cooked en braise (see Duck, Braised). If the poul- terer does not prepare the duck, it must be plucked, singed, and emptied; the feet scalded, skinned, and twisted round on the back of the bird; head, neck, and pinions cut off, the latter at the first joint, and all skewered firmly to give the breast a nice plump appear- ance. For the stuffing, take half a pound of onions, a tea-spoonful of powdered sage, three table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, the liver of duck parboiled and minced with pepper, salt, and cayenne. Cut the onions very fine, throw boiling water over them, and cover for ten minutes; drain through a gravy strainer, and add the bread-crumbs, minced liver, sage, pepper and salt to taste; mix, and put it inside the duck. This quantity is for one duck; more onion and sage may be added, but we recommend. the above as a delicate compound not likely to disagree with the stomach. Let the duck be hung a day or two, according to the weather, to make the flesh tender. Roast before a brisk clear fire, baste often, and dredge with flour to make the bird look frothy. Serve with a good brown gravy in the dish, and apple sauce in a tureen. Time: ducks, three-quarters of an hour to an hour; ducklings, twenty-five to thirty-five minutes. Probable cost, 3s. to 48. each. Sufficient, two ducks for seven or eight persons. ROAST DUCE. Duck, Roast, To Carve.—A young duckling should be carved in the same way as a fowl, the leg and wing being taken off, first of all, on either side (see Fowl, Roast, To Carve). A full-sized bird should be carved like a goose. First cut slices from the hreast, in the direction indicated in the figure by the dotted lines from 4 to Bn. The first slices are to be cut close to the wing; then proceed upwards’ towards the breast-bone. The legs and wings may afterwards be attacked. An opening is to made, shown by the dotted line c, to get at the stuffing. Duck, Salmi of.—Take the giblets of a duck, stew them gently in veal-gravy seasoned. with cayenne, three finely-shred shallots, and some pepper and salt. Roast the duck, cut it up, and lay itin astewpan with the gravy. Simmer till quite hot, then squeeze a bitter orange into the sauce, strain it over the duck, and send to table hot. More seasoning may be added for the English palate. Salmis are great favourites with French epicures; they are a species of moist devil, sufficiently piquant, as a rule, to please a Frenchman’s taste. Time: twenty minutes to roast; twenty minutes to stew. Probable cost, 8s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Duck, Stewed, with Cabbage.—Roast a nice fat duck before a clear fire for about twenty minutes; let it be well seasoned with Duc ( 189 ) DUK pepper and salt before it is put on the spit. Put it into a stewpan with the gravy procured from the roasting, and enough of beef gravy to cover it; add a seasoning of sage-leaves, lemon thyme, pepper, and salt, with some sliced onion pre- viously fried in butter. When it has stewed twenty minutes, strain the gravy, thicken with brown thickening, and pour it over the duck, which should have a layer of cabbage to rest on (see Cabbage, Stewed). Mashed turnips or sourkrout may be substituted for cabbage. Sufficient for four or more persons. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Duck, Stewed, with Green Peas.— Cut off the rind from half a pound of rather lean bacon. Divide it into pieces of about two inches each way, and fry to a light brown with butter. Dredge in a little flour, and after stirring about three minutes, add a pint of broth, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, salt, and pepper. The duck should be previously fried or roasted for ten minutes to make it a good colour, then put into the stewpan with the gravy and stewed slowly for an hour and a quarter, or till tender. Meanwhile stew a quart of peas with butter (see Peas, Green, French Mode of Cooking). Place the ducks and peas on a hot dish, pour over them the gravy strained and thickened, and serve hot. Duck, Stuffed.—Bone a duck carefully, without breaking the skin. Boil the bones in a small quantity of water, and use the liquor for the gravy. Make a rich stuffing with half a pound of veal, half a pound of good suet, some parsley, chives, and mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper, and make all into a paste with two well-beaten eggs and a little cream. Fill the inside of the duck, cook it en braise (see Duck, Braised), and serve. with a ragofit of chestnuts prepared with the gravy from the bones. Time, about an hour. Sufficient for five or six persons. (See also Duck, Roast). Duck, Wild, Hashed.—Carve the duck neatly as helped at table, put the joints into a stewpan with a pint of good brown gravy, add a table-spoonful of Seville orange-juice or lemon pickle, a glass of claret, mixed spice, salt, and cayenne to taste, and thicken with bread- crumbs. Let it get gradually hot, and when on the point of boiling, serve with sippets of toast as a garnish. Any cold wild fowl may be hashed as above, but for pheasants and part- ridges use white wine instead of claret. Time, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Duck, Wild, Roast.—The essentials to be observed in roasting wild duck are, first, to keep the gravy well in the breast of the bird, and, next, not to lose the flavour through over-dressing. Pluck and draw carefully, wipe out the inside with a clean cloth, cut off the head and neck, and scald the feet, ‘which are either to be rested on each side of the breast or trussed like those of a fowl. Put the duck before a brisk fire for five -tainutes to brown the outside and protect the ‘gravy, then baste plentifully with butter till done. Dredge with flour to give it a nice frothy appearance, and serve with a gravy in the dish, or ina tureen, if preferred. Make a gravy as follows :—Boil down the necks and gizzards in- a pint of water till reduced to half a pint, or take half a pint of veal gravy, add to it a slice off the end of a lemon or orange, an onion, three or four leaves of basil, a blade of mace, and a little pepper and salt; boil all together, -strain, and add a glassful of port wine and the juice of a Seville orange or lemon. Serve hot. ‘Time to roast, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 4s. to 5s. the couple. Allow two for a dish. , Duck, with Olives.—This is a simple dish, but much liked in Provence. Cook a duck en braise (see Duck, Braised.) Prepare the gravy in the usual way, adding plenty of mush- rooms after the gravy has been strained. Soak some olives for three hours, remove the stones, put them into the gravy and boil up quickly. Then put in the duck and simmer twenty minutes. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce poured over. Time to braise and stew, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Ducklings, Roasted.—Make a stuffing thus:—Boil four middle-sized onions ten or twelve minutes, and chop them very fine; add a table-spoonful of bread-crumbs, equal quantities of powdered sage, pepper, and flour of mustard—half a salt-spoonful of each—a tea- spoonful of brandy, and an ounce or more of dis- solved butter, with salt to taste; or if preferred the following stuffing may be used :—T wo ounces of bread-crumbs, the same of butter, a little chopped parsley, two leaves of sage powdered, a small bit of lemon-peel, three shallots, with pepper and galt. Roast the ducks before a quick fire, give them steady basting for about half an hour, then serve with the gravy dripped from them, and a good squeeze of lemon-juice add stock if required, with a tea-spoonful of soy, a little cayenne, or any sauce preferred, and when thickened send to table in a tureen. Duke of Norfolk’s Pudding.—Take six eggs, separate the yolks from the whites, beat up the yolks with a glassful of brandy, and flavour well with nutmeg and sugar. Boil a large cupful of the best Carolina rice in a pint of Madeira for half an hour; add one dozen ratafia cakes and the egg mixture, and beat all together. Have ready a dish lined with puff paste, and bake slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, without Madeira or brandy, 1s. This quantity is sufficient for five or six persons. Duke of Northumberland’s Pud- ding.—Take of bread-crumbs, currants, and finely-shred suet, each six ounces; of candied peel, mixed, one ounce. Beat up six eggs, leav- ing out the whites of two; add six ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt, half a grated nutmeg, and the whole of the rind of a lemon, also grated. When these ingredients are thoroughly blended and beaten, butter a mould or basin, and boil the pudding three hours. Serve with a sauce as follows:-—Into about a quarter of a pint of melted butter pour a glass of brandy or sherry, and the juice of a lemon, and add two ounces of loaf sugar, on which the rind of the lemon has been rubbed off. Stir the sauce when DUM (190 ) DUT well mixed over the fire, and send hot to table. : * Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. : Dumbarton Cake.—Beat up four eggs ‘with half a pint of new milk, and flavour them with orange-flower or rose-water. Turn half a pound of butter to cream, and work into it half a pound of white sugar. _ Put these together, ‘and add a wine-glassful of brandy, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, and the same of grated nutmeg. Dissolve as much carbonate of soda as will cover a shilling in a table-spoonful of hot water, and: beat in sufficient flour to make the mixture as fora pound cake. Bake in a but- -tered tin and a quick oven. Time, one hour or more. Probable ‘cost, 2s. ‘ Dimping Drones Tae one pound and a half’ of the best flour, make a hole in the middle, into which put a quarter of an ounce of fresh German yeast, with a quarter of a pint of warm water or milk, mix it into a thin battér, scatter a little flour lightly over the top, and leave it by the side of the fire to rise. “When, ‘well risen make it into a dough, with a: little more warm milk, to which add two well-beaten eggs anda little salt. Let it rise for an hour,. form it into light balls, and drop them one by one into fast-boiling water. When done, drain ‘them an instant, but send to table quickly with gravy, or sugar. and butter, or with melted butter, sweetened and flavoured with lemon- juice. Time, twenty minutes to boil. Probable cost, about 8d. . Dumplings, Half-hour.—Shred very: finely half a pound of beef suet, and prepare. the same weight of bread-crumbs, with’ the: addition of one table-spoonful of flour, three ounces of currants, two ounces of sugar, a little -lemon-peel and grated nutmeg, with three well- , beaten eggs to moisten. Roll the dough into balls, tie them separately in small cloths, and boil very quickly. Serve with melted butter, . sweetened, poured over them. Time, half an hour to boil. Probable cost,.1s. Sufficient for | eight or ten.dumplings. «RS ‘ ‘Dumplings, Plain.—Take one pound of. light dough, made as’ for bread, and roll it into~ small round balls, as large as an egg. Drop ‘them ‘into a saucepan of fast-boiling water, . first flattening them with the hand. Care should . “be taken to keep the water boiling, and to serve . quickly when done, or they will be heavy. If. the dough be mixed with milk, instead of water, the dumplings will be more’ delicate. They may be sent to table as an accompaniment to meat, or,eaten- with, a sweet. sauce. ‘Time, , twenty minutes to boil. ,, Probable cost, 2d. per pound. Sufficient for twelve dumplings. Dumplings, Steamed.—Get the ordi-. ‘nary dough at the baker's, and instead of boiling, ‘steam over a saucepan of boiling water. The dumplings will take longer to steam than to boil, but they will present a better appearance, being smooth and dry on the outside, than boiled ones. There is besides the saving of an extra saucepan, for any article of food requiring fast boiling may be cooked underneath the steamed dumplings. Care must be taken that the water does not stop boiling until they are done, and ‘that they are served quickly: -Meat gravy, or melted butter as a sauce. ‘Time, half an hour to steam. - Dutch Apple Pie.—Pare, core, and ‘slice three pounds of apples, and wagh:and dry half a pound of currants; lay part of the apples in a dish, and strew the currants, some sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon over. Take off the white part of the lemon, cut the pulp into thin slices, and spread them on the currants, add sugar and plenty of candied orange and ' citron-peel sliced, and fill up with the remaindey of the apples. Cover with a light paste and bake in a rather quick oven for an .hour or more. . Probable cost, 1s..6d. Sufficient, for seven or eight persons. : - ‘Dutch Cream.—Separate the whites from the yolks of three eggs, beat up the latter, and ’ pour them ‘gradually into a pint of new milk. ' Set’ the’ inilix in’ an endmelled saucepan, and add to it a pint of cream, five ounces’ of loaf ‘sugar, and two drachms of vanilla cut small., Stir the mixture over, a slow fire for about’ ten minutes, and when thick enough, pour it through a coarse strainer. It must, not ‘boil. ‘ Sufficient for one quart or more. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. . , ee Dutch Custard.—Break six eggs into a basin, add three ounces of fine sugar, and whisk thoroughly. Line a :pie-dish with puff “paste, or if preferred, only put a border‘ rourid -the'edge. Mix w pint and a-half of freshly- picked raspberries with three ounces of ‘sugar, add it to the eggs, and pour the mixture into the pie-dish. Bake in a moderate oven: Time, thirty to thirty-five minutes. Probablé ¢ost, 1g. 9d.° Sufficient for four or five persons. ' — ‘Dutch Flummery.—Pare the rind. of a lemon very thin, and -infuse it in a pint of water with half a pound of sugar. --Set. it, an the fire until the sugar is dissolved, and the syrup well flavoured, Add two ounces of isinglass and stir till this also is melted, then throw in the strained juice of four lemons, a tumblerful of wine, and the yolks of eight eggs. ‘Strain the mixture, put it into a jug, set the jug. in a saucepan of boiling water, and stir until the flummery thickens. .Take it out of the water, allow it to cool, and then pour it into moulds, A wine-glassful’of brandy may’ be added to the syrup, but in that case just so much less water will be required. Probable cost, exclusive of wine or brandy, 3s. Time, three or four minutes. Sufficient fora quart mould. ae +, Dutch Loaf —Take a quarter of-a pound of butter, half a pound of ‘sugar, one pound of dried currants, two table-spoonfuls of cinnamon, a pint of sponge, and as much flour as will forma dough. Make a sponge the evening before you wish to bake a cake, of a tea-cupful- and a half of milk, and as much flour stirred into it as will form a thick batter, with a little salt, and one gill of good yeast. Inthe morning this aponge should be light. Then beat the butter and sugar together, add the cinnamon, currants, and sponge, and flour cnoygh to form a dough. Butter a pan, and when the mixture is light, bake it in an oven about as hot as for bread. DUT (191 ) EEL Dutch Sauce.—Put tour ounces of butter, three well-beaten yolks of eggs, a tea-spoonful ‘of flour, anda dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar into an earthenware’ pipkin, or stir it very gently over the fire in a bain-marie. As the butter melts, stir constantly; and take care it does not curdle, which it will do if it: is allowed to boil. A few drops of vinegar may be added just before serving if thought neces- sary. This sauce has a pleasant sour flavour. It is specially adapted for asparagus, cauli- flower, sea-kale, artichokes, boiled fish, meat ‘or poultry; in fact, anything requiring a deli- cate sharp sauce. The leaves picked from a bunch of parsley pounded in a mortar to ex- tract the juice, simmered for a few minutes and added to half pint of béchamel sauce, makes, with a little salt, cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon stirred in just. before serving, what is called “Green Dutch Sauce.” Simmer till thick. Probable cost, 8d. Dutch Sauce for Fish.—Blend together two ounces of butter and a small tea-spoonful of flour, put it into a stewpan with equal quantities of water and tarragon vinegar, two table-spoonfuls of each, stir for a minute, and add the beaten yolks of two eggs, keeping up the stirring until the mixture thickens. It toust not boil, and when ready to serve pour into it half the juice of‘alemon. Make this sauce in a gallipot, placed in a saucepan of boiling water. ; Dutch Sauce, Green (3:e Dutch Sauce). Dutch Water Souchy.—Any fresh-| water fish is good for this dish, Remove the gills and eyes, and throw them aside, but boil down the heads, tails, and fins with one or two. of the fish that will not cut into neat pieces; add an onion, parsley, lemon-peel, pepper, and salt, and about two quarts of water. Boil till the stock is strong enough. Skim, strain, and ‘stew eels, flounders, perch, whiting, gudgeon, &c., all ‘cut into small pieces, in’ this liquor. | Any additional flavouring thay be added; an anchovy or shallot is an improvement. Slices of brown bread and butter genérally accompany this dish at table, and melted butter and parsley inatureen. Time to make the stock, one hour; to stew fish, ten minutes. ; , E Eastwell. Biscuits.—Mix one pound of flour with a pinch of salt. Rub in eight ounces of butter, and add eight ounces of sugar, a little grated ginger, and three eggs, to make a soft paste. Let this rest for an hour, Roll it thinly and stamp it into small shapes. Bake in a moderate oven. Before baking brush the shapes over with egg and sprinkle washed and dried currants or chopped almonds on the top. Eau. Sucre.—This is a very general beve- rage in France, made without rule as to quan- tity. A little sugar and some boiling water are the only ingredients. Tific, and for this reason is much drunk at supper-time. It is considered sopo-| Edgings to Dishes.—Of these. there is a great variety.’ We give such as arein general use for made dishes; for instance, rice, mashed potato, all kinds of pastry edgings, peeled new round potatoes, sippets of fried bread; hard-boiled eggs, small cucumbers, tomatoes, sliced beetroot, and lemon, with the white of egg beaten to a froth and dropped on each slice of lemon, and then powdered over with cayenne pepper. Then, for sweet dishes, there is an almost endless variety, but the most elegant are preserved fruits and cream beaten to a froth, and coloured. either green or red. It would be impossible.to give a recipe for every kind of garniture, nor is it necessary. A good cook will use her own judgment. and taste,. but perhaps for the inexperienced it would be wise to say what edgings best suit certain dishes; for instance, hashes of all kinds may be garnished with ‘sippets of fried bread cut into fanciful shapes, mashed potatoes, and even rice, though the latter is more generally used for curries. Mush- rooms are a most appropriate edging to stewed. beef, and hard boiled eggs for calf’s head ex tortue, or stewed soles; beetroot and parsley are excellent as'a garnish for cold meat, and thin strips of beetroot laid crosswise on the breast of a boiled fowl give an excellent finish. Eel Broth.—Take' one pound of' eels, a bunch of sweet herbs, some parsley, one onion, and a few peppercorns, cloves, and salt and pepper to taste. Clean and skin the fish, cut it into small pieces, and put it into a stewpan with the other ingredients, and six pints of water. Simmer till the liquid is reduced one- half, remove the scum as it rises, and. strain all through a sieve. When the broth is cold anid wanted for use, take off the fat and warm only what is required. Sippets.of toasted bread should be served at the same time.' Probable cost,.1s. 2d. Sufficient to make three pints of broth. Eel Patties.—Skin and wash some middle- sized eels, and after having cut them into pieces of an inch long, soak in salt and water for:an hour. When drained; put them into a stewpan with just enough hot water to cover them; add salt, pepper, a blade of mace, a little lemon-peel, and a sprig of parsley. ‘When the fish will sepa- rate from the bone, which will be the case after | eight or ten minutes’ gentle stewing, divide each piece into two, and put them aside until the broth has stewed « little longer, then re- move the lemon-peel, mace, &c.. Thicken with butter and a little ae ee with ee juice or ‘vinegar, and return the pieces of ee. 5 the bron Make patties as difécted for mutton patties (see Mutton Patties). Time, a quarter of an hour to bake the crust. Eel Pie.—Having skinned and. cleansed two pounds of large-sized eels, divide them into pieces of two or three inches in length. Cut off the heads, tails,and fins, and boil them with alittle lemon-peel, a shallot, a blade of mace, and as much of veal or mutton broth as will cover the eels in the pie-dish: Thicken with butter and flour, and add the juice of half a lemon. When strained and cool, throw the broth into the pie-dish over the eels, sprinkle them with pepper, EEL (192) EEL ealt, and chopped parsley, and cover with puff paste. Bake in a moderately brisk oven about one hour and a quarter, or the eels may be stewed first for half an hour and then finished in the pie. Probable cost, 6d. to 1s. per pound. Kel Pie (another way).—Take eels that weigh not less than half a pound when skinned. Put the heads, tails, and fins into a stewpan with some good veal broth, an onion, a blade of mace, a bit of lemon-peel, pepper, and salt. Cut the fish into pieces of three inches in length, and after soaking them in salt and water, rinse, drain, and lay them in a pie-dish with a season- ing of pepper and salt between each layer. ‘When the broth is well flavoured, skim, and strain it into a basin to get cold, then pour it over the eels, and bake with an edging and cover of paste in a brisk oven. Warm a little gravy with two table-spoonfuls of cream, and pour it into the pie through a paper funnel as soon as it comes from the oven. Time, one hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d. to 1s. per pound. Two pounds sufficient for four or five persons. Eel Pie with Tench.—Skin two eels, and bone them, and clean and bone two tench. Cut the eels into two-inch pieces, but the tench leave whole. Put water to the bones and trimmings, and stew them for one hour. This liquor, when strained, and the fat taken off, boiled with two onions, four blades of mace, three anchovies, pepper, salt, and a bunch of herbs, will be ready, when strained, for the pie. Lay the eels and the tench into a dish, with a few hard-boiled eggs and chopped parsley, in layers, and pour-in as much of the liquor as is required. Cover with puff paste, and bake in a rather quick oven. More liquor may be added after the pie is done. Time, about thirty-five minutes to bake. Sufficient for four persons. Eel Soup.—Soak three pounds of middle- sized eels in salt and water. Cut off the heads, bone, and slice them thinly. Simmer them in a stewpan, with three ounces of good butter. Allow them ten minutes, and then add two quarts of water, an onion sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, three blades of mace, some pepper- corns, salt to taste, and a small roll. Simmer till the eels are tender, then remove them, and strain the liquid. Make a smooth batter with two table-spoonfuls of flour and a quarter of a pint of cream; put this and the liquid together, and boil up, to throw over the sliced eels in the tureen. A-piece of toasted bread cut into dice may be sent up with it. Time, one hour or more. Probable cost, 1s. per quart. Sufficient for eight persons. Kel Soup, Brown.—Fry three pounds of eels, after rolling them in flour, bread-crumbs, or batter. Open, take out the bones, and set them aside. Fry chopped onions brown in butter, browning afterwards enough flour to thicken the soup without egg-yolks. Stir in gradually either water or stock; during the process season as for eel soup, white (see Eel Soup, White). Put in the eel, and if you will, add at the same time a glass of white wine. After one boil up, serve, accompanied by bread dice toasted or fried. Similar soups can be made with other firm-fleshed, middle-sized fish, as small conger, soles, &c. By the same treatment cold remnants of fish, of various kinds, both boiled and fried, may be economised by appearing in novel and pala- table forms of soup. They can be enriched by any lobster, oyster, or anchovy sauce that is left. If you happen to have a few shrimps, pick a handful; boil their shells; with a little of the liquor give a slight flavour of shrimps to the soup, at the same time that you throw in your shrimp meats. These soups bear a dust of cayenne and sugar, and should be accom- panied by bread or rolls. Eel Soup, White.—Set a saucepan of water on the fire; season with salt, whole pepper, a blade of mace, a strip of lemon-peel, and a bunch of the most fragrant sweet herbs at command. When it boils, throw in the eels. As soon as they are done enough (and they are spoiled if done too much)—just enough to let the flesh come away from the bone—take them out, split them in two, and remove the bone. Each length of eel will thus make two pieces, which should be left entire. Set them aside. Chop fine three or four white onions. Roll a lump of butter in flour; put it in a stewpan with the onions; moisten gradually with a little of the eel broth. When the onions are tender, add the rest of the liquor (removing the herbs and the lemon-peel), stir- ring it in gradually, with a tea-cupful of fresh milk. Throw in the eel meats, and set the soup aside until they are hot through. While they are so heating, you may further thicken with a couple of egg-yolks well worked into a little of the liquor. Taste if sufficiently sea- soned. You will find an almost imperceptible dust of sugar an improvement. In fact, most white soups, even when seasoned with salt, are the better for a sprinkling with sugar. Eels (a Ja Poulette).—When the eel has been skinned and cleaned, cut into pieces, and roll the pieces first in melted butter, and then in’ flour. Put the pieces of cel into a stewpan with equal qantities of white wine and water ; add a bunch of herbs, some mushrooms, pepper, and salt, and stew till done; then remove the fish, and thicken the gravy with flour, butter, and egg. After skimming off the fat from the sur- face, serve quickly, and add a squeeze of lemon- juice, and a little vinegar. Time to stew, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. to 1s. per pound. Eels (41a Tartare).—Skin ahd cleanse two ot three eels, cut them into pieces of two inches, and let the pieces lie half an hour in salt and water. Take equal quantities of réd wine and stock broth, a gill of each; simmer the pieces of eel in this until nearly done. When cool, dip each piece separately into oiled butter or beaten egg, cover with bread-crumbs, and broil or fry till all are nicely browned. Serve with tartar sauce on the dish (see Tartar Sauce). Broad crusts browned in the oven, and then pounded fine, make the best crumbs for eels. Time, twenty-five minutes to simmer; to fry, fivo minutes. Sufficient, two pounds, for five or six persons. BEL (193 ) EEL ‘Hels, Baked.—Take a large eel that has been skinned and well cleansed. Fill it with a forcemeat composed of the following ingre- dients: three table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, and the same quantity of shelled shrimps, a little pounded mace, two ounces of butter, pepper, and salt, pounded to a paste, with the beaten yolk of an egg. When stuffed, put the eel into a round baking-dish with water and sherry, the quantity of the former being twice as much as that of the latter, add two or three ounces of butter, and bake. When ready to serve, skim and strain the gravy. Garnish with slices of lemon. Time, three-quarters of an hour to pake. Probable cost, 6d. to 1s. per pound. Sufficient for two or more persons. Eels, Boiled.—Soak three or four small ones (if they are preferred), in strong salt and water for an hour. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan, with just the quantity of water requisite to cover the fish. Add a bunch of parsley, and let the eels simmer about half an hour. Serve in a shallow dish, with melted butter sharpened with plenty of lemon-juice, Sufficient for four persons. Eels, Boiled, for Convalescents pokes Cooxery).—When the skin has been wn off the eel, it is placed before a clear fire, or on a gridiron over a fire, to rid it of the oily matter. When it has parted with the fat (it will not require to be kept before the fire for this purpose more than ten minutes), scrape and wash it in warm water, and then put it into a saucepan with more hot water—about one quart—add a bunch of parsley, and a small quantity of salt, and simmer till done. Serve with a little of the broth in the dish, and minced parsley as well. It should be simmered for twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. to 1s. per pound. Eels, Broiled.—Clean and skin two eels; if large ones, cut them into pieces of three or four inches; if small, they should be curled round, but first sprinkled with a mixture of chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a little powdered sage, then rubbed or dipped in yolk of egg, and strewn with bread-crumbs. Broil over a clear fire till lightly browned. Send to table melted butter sharpened with lemon-juice. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, froni 6d. to 1s. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. COLLARED EELS. Eels, Collared.—Take a large eel, cut off the head and tail, and remove the skin and backbone ‘without tearing the flesh. Spread it out flat on a board, and cover it witha season- ing composed of the following ingredients :— A small bunch of herbs, two. leaves of sage 13—N.£. minced very fine, two cloves, two blades of mace, and a little allspice and whole pepper well pounded, with salt to taste. Roll up the eel, beginning with the broad end, and bind it tightly with atape. Boil down the backbone, head, and tail with pepper, salt, mace, and vinegar. Put the eel to this liquor, and stew about three-quarters of an hour, and when tender set it aside. Boil up the liquor with more vinegar and spice, if required, and when cool add it to the fish. Probable cost, 6d. to 1s. per pound. : * Hels (en Matelote).—Cut up some very small onions—five or six of them—and brown them with a little butter and flour in a stew- pan. When of a light brown, add about half a pint of good broth and a wine-glassful of port wine, a few mushrooms, a laurel-leaf, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste. Have ready two pounds of eels, divided into lengths of three inches, simmer them in this gravy till tender, then remove the eels and place them high in the centre of a dish. Thicken the sauce with butter and flour, and serve it hot poured over. Time to stew the eels, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for four or five persons. Eels, Fricasseed.—Cut up four pounds of skinned eels into pieces of four inches in length, put them into a stewpan with equal quantities of sherry wine and water, enough to cover them; addtwenty oysters, a bunch of herbs, an onion stuck with five or six cloves, some parsley, pepper, salt, and cayenne. When the eels have stewed one hour remove them to a dish, strain the gravy, and put it back into the stewpan with a quarter of a pint of cream and some butter —about an ounce—rolled in flour. Thicken this gravy, and pour it over the fish. Serve with horse-radish as a garnish. Probable cost, 6d. to 1s. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. : Eels, Fried.— After the eel has been skinned and cleansed, cut it into neat pieces of four inches long, and when quite dry, season them with salt and pepper, and dip each piece into the beaten yolk of egg, cover it with bread-crumbs, and fry to a nice brown in butter or lard. Tf the eels are small they are usually curled round instead of being cut into pieces. Garnish with fried parsley, and serve on a napkin. Fry for about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. to 1s. per pound. Eels, Mayonnaise of.—Skin and empty an eel of about two pounds and a half weight, and cut it into lgngths of two inches and a half. Throw the piecgs. into salt and water, and, when thoroughly, cleansed, drain and dry them. Place them in neat layers, with spice between each layer, in a potting-dish. Pour a mixture of vinegar and water, with a little dissolved isin- glass in it over the contents of the pot, and stew or bake in a moderate.oven till tender. When sent to table, fill a dish with the pieces of eel, and pour over them as, much Mayonnaise sauce as will cover them; decorate according to taste, and surround the dish with lumps of jelly taken from the potting-dish. Time, about one hour to pot. EEL ( 194 ) EGG Eels, Potted.—Cooked in this manner they are said to be richer and better when unskinned. Choose young eels, and cleanse them asfollows :— Hold the head of the fish in your left hand, grasp it firmly between the thumb and finger; in the other hand have ready a cloth with a good quantity of coarse salt; draw the eel through, pressing it tightly as it passes through the salt, then soak in salt and water one hour. ‘When thoroughly cleansed, cut them into pieces about two inches long, put them into a brown earthern pot with a cover, season with salt, pepper, and allspice. Pour vinegar and water on them, and bake in a slow oven till tender. The pickled eels that are sent from the northern countries of Europe to the south are not skinned. Eels Roasted in the Ashes.—River fish caught in the neighbourhood of farms are roasted expeditiously on the hearth of a wood fire. When skinned and cleaned, they are rolled into a spiral form, dusted with pepper and salt, and enclosed in a double buttered paper. A hot part of the hearth is then swept clean, and the papered fish laid upon it. Hot ashes are next shovelled over till every part is covered, and when the eels are suffi- ciently done, the outside paper is removed, and they are thus sent to table accompanied by plain melted butter or any sauce at hand. Time, about half an hour, or according to the heat of the ashes. Hels, Sauce for.—Eels are generally cooked without their skins, thus rendering them more delicate, and requiring only a mild Sauce, such as capers, sorrel, or parsley and butter for boiled eels; but when very rich, as they always are if the skins are retained, some piquante sauce is necessary (see Sauce 4 la Tartare). Eels, Spitchcocked.—Large eels are best for this mode of cooking. When skinned and split, the back bones should be taken out SPITCHCOCKED EELS. carefully without tearing the fish, and they should be divided into three or four-inch pieces. Have ready a seasoning of chopped parsley, a very little sage, a blade of mace pounded, pepper, and salt; let the pieces be well smeared. with warmed butter and lemon-juice (or let them lie in it for two or three minutes), then strew the seasoning over, and dip each piece in egg and bread-crumbs. Fry in boiling fat, and serve in a round on the dish with sauce piquante in the middle. Some prefer plain melted butter with the juice of lemon. Time, twenty minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d. to 1s. per pound, Eel Spitchcocked (another way).—Skin and clean a large eel, and lard it with very thin narrow strips of bacon; make a seasoning of herbs, salt, and pepper; sprinkle the eel all over with it, then put equal quantities of good veal broth and vinegar into a dish, and lay the fish in for three hours ; let there be enough to cover it. Drain itdry, and foldit in a buttered paper, first turning and skewering it backwards and forwards, that it may be more conveniently cooked. When on the spit, baste frequently ; and add half a pint of white wine to mix with the drippings in the pan for this purpose. Take off the paper a few minutes before it is quite done, and baste and flour, that it may be of a nice brown. Fried bread may be placed round the dish, and broiled slices of salmon; or they may be varied with small soles fried of a beautiful colour. Time to roast, from thirty to thirty-five minutes. Probable cost, from 6d. to 1s. per pound. Eels, Stewed.—Divide four large eels into pieces of about two inches, and season them with pepper, salt, and a little pounded mace. Lay them ina deep dish with a little veal stock, a bundle of sweet herbs, and a very little chopped parsley sprinkled in layers over them. Tie down with a paper, first putting some small bits of butter on the top. Stewed eels are always best when done in a moderate oven. Time, one hour or more. Probable cost, 6d. to 1s. per pound., Egg and Brandy Cream.—Beat well the yolks of five fresh eggs with a spoonful of cream. Add three ounces of sugar, finely pounded and sifted, and two glasses of the best French brandy. Blanch and pound forty almonds, thirty-four sweet ones and six bitter ones, and boil them in a few spoonfuls of milk; add them, when cold, to the eggs, and stir the mixture thoroughly, When it is perfectly mixed, pour it into a well-lined saucepan along with a quart of cream; stir one way till it becomes thick, but do not let it boil. Serve in custard-cups with a ratafia on the top of each. Probable cost, about 4s. 9d. Sufficibnt for twelve cups. . Egg Balls.—Boil some eggs till they are hard, separate the yolks, pound them, and with the yolks of raw eggs and a little flour, roll up into small balls. These balls are used for turtle soup. Egg Balls (another way).—To one egg put just as little flour as will make it into a paste that you can pinch into shape with your fingers. Season with pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and less chopped lemon-peel cut very thin. Work these into pellets the size of marbles, making a few of them long like miniature sausages. Put them into boiling broth, and let them boil galloping till their substance is set. Egg Barley Soup (German).—To the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and the whites of one, add as much flour as will make a stiff hard ball. Grate it on a coarse bread-grater ; let the gratings fall separately over a large space, and let them dry; then sprinkle them lightly into boiling broth, and serve. Probable cost, 6d. per quart. EGG (195 ) EGG Egg Flip should be made with white ale if it can be procured. Make one pint of ale warm, but not too hot. Beat two or three eggs, with three ounces of sugar, togethcr, throw the eggs into the jug containing the ale, and then throw both back into the empty jug. This must be done quickly five or six times, until all is well mixed together; then grate ginger and nutmeg over the top, and the flip is quite ready. Serve in glasses while hot. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, 7d. Egg Mince Pies.—Make some mince- meat, following a good recipe. Before making up the pies, mix the beaten yolks of three eggs with three dessert-spoonfuls of sugar, three of lemon-juice, and three of brandy. Before covering the pies throw a dessert-spoonful of the mixture over the mince, then bake in the usual way. This addition will enrich the pies. Egg Pie.—Take one pound of good beef suet, shred it fine, one pound of currants well washed and picked, twelve hard-boiled eggs, a little cinnamon or nutmeg, and a little cream. Beat all together, put the mixture into a pie- dish and bake with an edging of puff paste for three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, about 2s. 6d. Egg-powder Cake.—Egg-powder, as it is called, is a vegetable compound, intended to serve as a substitute for eggs, to four of which one penny packet professes to be equivalent in cake-making, and sufficient to add to two pounds of flour. Some cooks, however, think it best to use it in addition to eggs. The powder is firstemixed with the flour, and then water or milk is added for plum, batter, and other pud- dings, cakes, pancakes, &c. For a cake, mix well together one quartern of flour, half a pound of butter, two ounces of sweet pork lard, three- quarters of a pound of well-washed currants, half a pound of sugar, two packets of egg- powder, and three eggs. You may add mixed spices, grated nutmeg, and candied citron-peel, to your taste. When these are thoroughly stirred up together, with enough milk to bring the whole to a proper consistency, butter the inside of your cake-tin, put the cake in, and bake immediately. The top of the cake may be glazed with beat-up egg. Egg Salad.—Boil eight eggs hard, chop the yolks and whites separately; put a little salad into the dish, cover it with the eggs in layers. When done, make a hole in the middle and pour in the salad mixture. Egg Sandwiches.—Boil some eggs hard as if fora salad. When quite cold, cut them into thin slices, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and place the slices between nicely-prepared bread and butter. This isa convenient and de- licate preparation for a journey taken in haste. Egg Sauce.—Blend two ounces of good fresh butter with a dessert-spoonful of flour ; put the mixture into a small saucepan with a wine- glassful of water; or, if the sauce be intended for salt fish, of the liquor in which the fish was boiled ; see that it is not too salt, a fault which a little milk or water will remedy. Simmer, but do not boil. When ready to boil, draw the saucepan from the fire, and stir in two ounces more of butter and two or three hard-boiled eggs cut small. Time, one minute to simmer. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Egg Sauce for Calf’s Head.—Take half a pint of veal or any white broth, thicken it with two ounces of butter blended with an ounce and a half of flour; add, when it boils, some minced parsley, three eggs boiled hard and chopped separately, yolks from whites, a little cayenne pepper, and a squeeze of lemon- juice. Take the sauce off the fire, and stir into it another ounce of butter. Serve in a tureen. If liked, the egg-whites only may be stirred into the sauce; the hard yolks may be pressed through a wire sieve upon the meat. Eggs, Sunshiny.—Melt a little butter in an omelet pan, sprinkle salt upon it, and break into it one or more eggs according to the number required. Fry these over the fire for about two minutes till they are sufficiently poached, and be careful to turn up the edges to keep them from spreading too far. Before sending them to table sprinkle pepper over them, and cover them with tomato sauce. This dish is named by Italians egg in purgatory. Eggs prepared in the same way, and sprinkled over with grated parmesan or gruyére cheese, are named eggs in moonshino. Egg Toast.—Place a bowl containing three ounces of good butter in boiling water, and stir until the butter is quite melted; mix it with four well-beaten eggs, and put them together into a saucepan, keeping it moving round in one direction until the mixture becomes heated ; then pour it quickly into a basin, and back again into the saucepan. Repeat this until it is hot, but on no account must it be boiling. Have ready some slices of: buttered toast, lay the mixture of egg thickly over, and serve very hot. Time, about five minutes. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for two persons. Egg Vol-au-Vents.—Mince two truffles and put them into a stewpan with two table- spoonfuls of thick cream; add four eggs that have boiled twenty minutes, chop them small; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Have ready some paste-cases, and when the mixture has simmered five minutes, fill them and serve hot. Sufficient for six cases. Egg Wine.—Boil together in a delicate saucepan one or two glasses of white wine, with half the quantity of water ; sweeten to taste, and add a little nutmeg. Beat well in a basin one or two eggs, with a spoonful of cold water to each egg; pour the boiling wine very slowly into the basin, stirring steadily all the time, and then back into the saucepan. Hold the saucepan with one hand over the fire for only a minute, and stir with the other. Do not let the contents boil or they will be spoiled. Egg wine is often made without warming the egg, in which state it is lighter, if not so agreeable te -the taste. Eggs (3 la Bonne Femme).—Get six eggs of the same size, large ones, boil them ten minutes, and when cool enough, remove the shells care- fully. Divide them equally in halves, take-ont the yolks and cut from each the pointed tip of EGG (196) EGG white that they may stand flatly. Make tiny dice of some cold chicken, ham, boiled beetroot, and the yolks of the eggs. Fill the EGGS (A LA BONNE FEMME). hollows with these up to the brim, and pile the dice high in the centre—two of ham and chicken, or separately, two of boiled beetroot, and two with the hard yolks. Arrange some neatly-cut lettuce on a dish, and place the eggs amongst it. Sufficient for three persons. Eggs (4 Ja Carmélite).—Chop some sorrel, a little parsley, and two or three small boiled onions together; add the yolks of six hard- boiled eggs, chopped separately; season with pepper and salt, and mix with a little melted butter. Fill the whites of the eggs, which should be divided in halves, lengthways, with this mixture, and warm them thoroughly in a white sauce composed of two ounces of butter and a quarter of a pint of cream, with a blade of mace to flavour. If flour be used it should be only sufficient to prevent the butter from oiling. Serve with a little lemon-juice squeezed into the sauce. Time, twenty minutes to boil eges. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. Eggs (4 la Créme).—To five or six eggs that have been well whipped toa frothadd gradually half a pint of cream, and, while mixing, flavour with a tea-spoonful of salt. Butter a mould and pour in the mixture. It may be baked gently in the oven till set, or placed over a pan of boiling water. Whenturned out of the mould, a rich brown gravy should be poured round it. Probable cost, 2s. Eggs (4 la Duchesse).—Flavour one quart of milk with vanilla or orange-flower water ; or, if preferred, boil it with lemon-rind, cinnamon, and laurel-leaves till the flavour is extracted; sweeten to taste, and when boiling have ready the whites of four eggs beaten to a froth. Drop these from a:spoon into the boiling milk, turn the eggs until they are done, and then place them to drain. Send them to table ina glass dish, with a custard made with the yolks and some of the milk (with additional flavouring if required) poured over them. Time, two minutes to poach the whites. Probable cost, 9d. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Eggs (4 la Francaise).—A very common and simple mode of dressing eggs is to slide them as if for poaching on to a well-buttered tin dish, and set them over the fire or in an oven until the whites are set. This is a favourite way of cooking them in France and Germany, where eggs are plentiful and cheap. Time, four or five minutes to dress. Eggs ( la Gruyére).—Melt a quarter of a pound of Gruyére cheese in a stewpan over a slow fire, with a small quantity of butter, a quarter of a pint of veal stock, a seasoning of finely-minced chives, parsley, grated nutmey, and salt. Add, as soon as the cheese has becn well stirred with the other ingredients, four well-beaten eggs, and stir till the herbs are sufficiently done. Serve with sippets of toasted bread. Eggs (a l’Italienne).—Break seven or eight eggs into a saucepan, with a bit of butter in it. Add the juice of a lemon, a glass of white wine, enough pounded sugar to make them decidedly sweet, 2 pinch of salt, and any approved fla- vouring, as orange-flower water or curacoa. Then proceed exactly as with scrambled eggs (see Eggs, Scrambled). When they are set without being hard, pile them on a hot dish, dust them well with sugar, and candy it a little either under a salamander or with a red- hot fire shovel. Eggs (a la Maitre d’Hotel).—Slice and fry some Spanish onions in butter, but do not let them brown. Add a little flour, some hot milk, chopped parsley, salt, and white pepper, and let the sauce thicken. Cut some eggs that have been boiled for ten minutes into quarters, lay them into the sauce, and when hot, arrange the eggs neatly in wa dish and pour the sauce over them. Eggs (a la Tripe).—Cut half a dozen onions in slices, let them fall into rings, and fry them in butter, without browning them. Take them up and put them aside. Mix a spoonful of flour with the butter to make a paste, and add milk or broth to make a smooth thick sauce. Put in the onions and stew them gently till tender. Remove the shells from the eggs, slice the white parts, and leave the yolks whole. Put the sliced whites into the sauce with the onions till hot. Serve in a hot dish and garnish with the uncut egg- yolks. Eggs (a la Tripe). Another way.—Boil six eggs for ten minutes, and throw them into cold water. Boil two Portugal onions. When partly done, change the water, and when quite done, peel and slice them, Simmer the slices of onion for another half-hour in milk, and add a bit of butter rolled in flour. Slice the eggs lengthways, and stir the sauce until it is smooth and as thick as cream, then put in the egg. Garnish the dish with sippets of toast, and serve with some newly-made mustard. Time to boil onions, two hours, or more. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for three or four persons. _Bggs (i la Tripe). Another way.—Boil eight eggs hard, remove the yolks without breaking, and cut up the whites to a mince. Lay the yolks in the middle of a dish, and the whites roundthem. Have ready some béchamel sauce, add a dessert-spoonful of finely-cut parsley, and when hot, throw it over the eggs. Send to table garnished with crottons fried, or leaves of puff paste. Time, ten minutes to boil eggs. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. EGG ( 197 ) EGG Eggs and Asparagus.—Cut a slice of bread to suit a dish, toast and butter it while quite hot, then lay it on the dish, and keep both warm by the side of the fire. Have ready six well-beaten eggs, add a little salt and pepper, and put them into a saucepan with a ump of butter. Beat the eggs until they have lost their fluid state, then spread them over the toast with asparagus, boiled and cut small, zaid on the top of the eggs. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Suffi- cient for two or more persons. Eggs and Asparagus (another way). —Bou some nice young asparagus, and cut it into pieces as nearly as possible like peas. Have ready four eggs well beaten, and flavoured with pepper and salt. Put the asparagus with them and stir gently; then dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and stir the mixture until it is thick. Serve on toast. Time to boil asparagus, fifteen to eighteen minutes after the water boils; to stew with the eggs, two or three minutes. Sufficient for two persons. Eggs and Bread.—Take a penny loaf, soak it in a quart of milk for two hours, or till the bread is soft. Put to it two table- spoonfuls of orange-flower water or rose-water; sweeten it, and grate into it a little nutmeg. Take a dish and butter the bottom of it, break in as many eggs as will cover the bottom, pour in the bread and milk, beat all briskly with a fork, and bake in a well-heated oven for half an hour. Eggs and Burnt Butter.—Prepare half adozen eggs as if for poaching, by breaking each one separately into a cup. Brown three ounces of butter in a large frying-pan, and slide the eggs from the cups into it; when they have well set, ladle the burnt butter over them, and sprinkle salt and some nutmeg. Serve on toast wetted with vinegar. Time, from two and a half to three and a half minutes, according to size of eggs. Sufficient, two eggs for each person. Eggs and Celery.—Put into a stewpan four heads of celery that have been previously cut into short pieces, and boiled till nearly done in salt and water. Stew the celery for five minutes with three table-spoonfuls of cream and half a table-spoonful of vinegar. Season according to taste with salt and white pepper. Place the celery on a dish, and serve poached eggs neatly on the top of it. Garnish with slices of hard- boiled eggs. Time, half an hour or more to boil celery. Sufficient for five or six poached eggs. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Eggs and Cucumber.—Put three ounces of butter into a stewpan, and let it dissolve. Peel, quarter, and cut into slices three small cucumbers, and shred some young onions; add these to the butter, flavour with pepper and salt, and throw in half a table-spoonful of vinegar. When the mixture has simmered ten minutes, have ready slices of six hard-boiled eggs, which warm up for two minutes longer, stirring in a fable-spoonful of cream just before serving. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Eggs and Garlic.—Pound ten cloves of garlic that have been boiled for twenty minutes— the water having been changed during the boil- ing—with a couple of anchovies; put them, when well pounded, into a stewpan, and add two table- spoonfuls of oil, the beaten yolks of two eggs, a table-spoonful of vinegar, some pepper and salt, and mix all together while being heated. Put the mixture on a dish, and serve with sliced hard-boiled eggs. Four eges will cut. slices enough for this dish. Time, ten minutes to dress. eggs; two or three minutes to warmi the mixture. Sufficient, two eggs to each person. Eggs and Gravy.—Put a young well- fed fowl into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, some spice, a faggot of herbs, and half a dozen small onions, let it brown ‘slightly and equally; add half a pint of stock, close the lid tightly, and finish the cooking over a very slow fire. Parboil the liver of the fowl in some. good gravy, remove it, and poach half a dozen eggs in the same liquor. Rub down the liver to a paste, and use it to thicken the gravy in which the fowl has been stewed. Place the fowl on a hot dish, with balls of spinach round it; lay a poached egg on each ball, flattening it with the back of the slice; pour the gravy over the fowl, and serve hot. Time, one hour to stew the fowl. Eggs and Milk.—Beat six eggs with twe ounces of loaf sugar and a pint of milk; put the whole into a pie-dish, which set for three- quarters of an hour in a bain-marie. When done, sprinkle it with powdered sugar, pass the red-hot shovel over the top, and serve either hot or cold. Eggs and Mushrooms.—Cut off the ends and stalks from half a pint of mushroom buttons, put them into a basin of water with a little lemon-juice as they are done. Drain and slice them with some large onions, which fry in butter. If liked the onions can be omitted, and the mushrooms can be stewed whole. Put the mushrooms when tender on a dish, break some eggs upon them to cover the surface, and in doing this be careful not to break the yolks of the eggs. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle browned crumbs on the top, and put the dish in a hot oven till the eggs are set. Serve immediately. Time to stew mushrooms, from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost of mushrooms, 1s. to 2s. per pint. 3 Eggs and Onions.—Fry some onions, nicely sliced, in butter; put a rather large sprinkling of cayenne pepper over them. Drain them from the butter, and put them on a dish before the fire to dry a little. Press out the juice of a lemon over them, and then lay nicely- poached eggs on the top. Serve very hot. Time to fry onions, five minutes; to poach eggs, three to four minutes. Six eggs sufficient for three persons. i Eggs and Potatoes.—Boil seven or eight floury potatoes and mash them while quite hot; add one ounce of butter, the yolk of an egg, pepper, and salt, and, if liked, a little pounded onion, and boiled minced parsley. Roll the potatoes into egg-like shape, brush them over EGG (198 ) EGG with beaten egg, and cover with fine bread-- crumbs, well seasoned with salt and white pepper. Put them into an oven to brown, or fry in lard or dripping till they are of a fine brown colour; lay them before the fire to drain, if fried, and serve garnished with fried parsley. Time, half an hour to boil potatoes. Probable cost, 1d. to 2d. per pound. Allow one pound for three persons. Eggs and Sauce.—Chop finely a tea- spoonful each of parsley and chives, and put them into a stewpan, with two ounces of butter and a little flour; add a glass of sherry, a tea- spoonful of salt, and half the quantity of pepper. ‘When the sauce has simmered about ten minutes, have ready half a dozen poached eggs; lay them on toast, and send to table with the sauce poured round. Sufficient sauce for six eggs. Probable cost, 1s., without wine. Eggs and Sauce Robert.—Boil twelve eggs for fifteen minutes, quarter them, after removing the shells, and have ready the above sauce, in which the eggs should be placed just long enough to heat them thoroughly; gently mix them with the sauce, that they may not get broken, and serve hot (see Robert Sauce). Allow two eggs for each person. Eggs and Sorrel.—Like spinach, sorrel requires much washing to clear it from grit. When well drained, cut up enough nice leaves to fill a pint, and either stew them in an earthen- ware jar in a cool oven, or in a stewpan with two ounces of dissolved butter, pepper, and salt. While the sorrel is stewing, boil four eggs hard and bruise the yolks with a quarter of a pint of cream, and when it is tender, stir the mixture into it by degrees. Serve, turned out smooth on a dish, with hard-boiled eggs (allow six for this quantity of sorrel), quartered and arranged over and round it. Time, about twenty-five minutes to prepare. Sufficient for three per- sons (see also Eggs and Spinach, or Sorrel). Eggs and Spinach.—Prepare some spinach by washing very carefully, and then boiling till tender. Put mto cold water to keep the colour good, and when quite cold, press the water out of it, a little at a time, in a towel. Chop it very fine, and put it into a stewpan with a lump of butter and some rich gravy. Boil it quickly in this, and add pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Or it may be stewed with cream and a little sugar, which is a very delicate method. Poach six eggs, and trim them neatly. Serve them upon the spinach. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to boil; five minutes to stew. Pro- bable cost, 2d. per pound. Sufficient for three persons. Eggs and Spinach, or Sorrel.—Poach not quite new-laid eggs. Put some boiling water “into a clean frying-pan, and when it boils up, draw the pan aside and slip into it egg after egg, previously broken into cups; adda table-spoon- ful of vinegar, if liked, to the water, and simmer till the white is set, then remove with a slice, trim, and lay the eggs on the spinach. A tin egg- poacher is an assistance to an inexperienced cook in this delicate operation. Break an egg into each perforated cup, and place the machine in a etewpan of boiling water; the eggs are easily slipped out as soon as done. To those who like acids, sorrel may be used instead of spinach. Serve either under the poached eggs. Time to poach eggs, two and a half to three minutes. Two eggs sufficient for one person. Eggs and White Sauce.—Cut five hard- boiled eggs in halves, so as to form cups of the whites when the yolk is removed. Mix the yolks to a paste with a table-spoonful of cream and an ounce of butter ; add to it a tea-spoonful of minced onion and parsley, and when well flavoured with salt and cayenne, fill the whites and set them over steam till quite hot. Pare off the pointed tips, as before directed (see Eggs ala Bonne Femme), that they may stand steadily on the dish. Serve in white sauce. Time, ten minutes to boil eggs. Eggs, as Snow.—Separate the yolks from the whites of six eggs. Beat the whites to a froth, with a little finely-powdered sugar. Have ready a full pint of new milk well sweetened and flavoured with vanilla, orange-flower water, or rose-water. When it boils, drop in, one by one, table-spoonfuls of the frothed egg, and when set, remove each with a slice. By vary- ing the quantity dropped in, a handsomer dish will be obtained than by keeping to one uniform size. Arrange the patches of snow on a large dish, and group the large ones in the centre. If the milk has cooled a little, mix the egg-yolks slowly and very gradually with it till all is used, and it has become thick. Pour this amongst and around, but not over the snow. Serve cold as a supper dish. Eggs (au Gratin).—Chop very fine an an- chovy, an eschalot, and a sprig of parsley, and mix them with three yolks of eggs to a small cupful of bread-crumbs and two ounces of butter; season with salt and pepper. Have ready a hot dish; butter it well, and strew the mixture over the bottom. Place the dish in a Dutch oven, and brown it slightly; then break half a dozen eggs into separate cups and slide them neatly on to the dish, after which return it to the oven for three minutes, or until the whites have set. Serve immediately. Pro- bable cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for three persons. _Eggs (au Miroir).—Spread butter upon a dish that can be set on the fire; break the ege over it, adding salt, pepper, and two spoonfuls of milk; place it on a slow fire, with a red-hot shovel over it, and serve when the eggs are set. Or, cut some asparagus tops into pieces like peas; boil them a quarter of an hour, then take them out, and put them into a stewpan, with a bunch of parsley, chives, and a piece of butter; set them over a slow fire, put in a pinch of flour, add a little water, and let them stew, seasoning with salt and sugar. When done, put them into the dish they are to be served in, and break over them some eggs, seasoned with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Set them for a short time over the fire, press a red-hot shovel over, and serve the yolks soft. Eggs, Beating.—This is best done with rods of wood in a shallow, flat-bottomed pan; bestow the beating with short, quick, down- ward strokes, without moving the elbow, which should be kept close to the side. When the EGG ( 199 ) EGG foaming and bubbles disappear, and the beaten eggs assume the appearance which hag been well described as that of a rich boiled custard, your task will have been very well accomplished. Kent's egg-beater is an excellent little instru- ment which greatly facilitates this process. Eggs, Blancmange of.—Empty four or five large eggs by making a small opening at one end. Wash them with a little warm water, and then drain dry. Fix them steadily into egg-cups, or put them in a dish filled with rice or sago, and fill with blancmange by the same aperture through which the egg contents escaped. Do not disturb them till quite cold. Carefully remove the shells, and serve the blanc- mange eggs in a glass dish with a coloured cream around them, or shred a lemon or orange into the lightest of fine strips, and lay them amongst it. Eggs, Boiled.—The lightest preparation of eggs is to simply boil them three minutes, when the white will be slightly coagulated, and the yolk will retain its fluid state. A new-laid egg will require longer boiling than a stale one. Four minutes is not too long to get the white well set of a quite fresh egg, while three minutes will be generally sufficient for one more advanced. Machines may be bought for this purpose, and an egg boiled at the breakfast- table by one of these simple tin machines will not fail to give satisfaction: Eggs, Boiled, Hard.—An egg may be boiled hard in from five to ten minutes, but to boil them mealy (which is the lightest prepara- tion next to only boiling them long enough to set the white) allow one whole hour. The experiment should be tested by those who are not aware of the result. It transforms the hard-boiled egg into a digestible article of food. Eggs, Broiled.—Cut a slice the whole round of a quartern loaf, toast it lightly, trim the edges, and lay it on a dish before the fire, with some bits of butter placed over it. When this melts, break and spread carefully six or eight eggs on the toast. Have ready a sala- mander, and when the eggs are sufficiently done, squeeze a Seville orange and grate some nutmeg over them. Time, till the eggs are set. Probable cost, 10d. to 1s. Eggs, Buttered.—Brown some butter in a frying-pan, and break five eggs’ upon a dish, as if for poaching, with a seasoning of salt and nutmeg; pour some of the butter, in its boiling state, over them, and move them gently to get all the butter about them; put the dish by the fire to keep hot, and finish browning the eggs with a red-hot shovel if you have no salamander. Time to brown butter, &c., about ten minutes. Probable cost, 7d, Sufficient for one dish. Eggs, Buttered (another way).—Put three ounces of butter into a basin, place it in boiling water, and stir till melted; add eight eggs, well beaten, and pour both together into a well-lined saucepan. When the eggs and butter have been held long enough over a gentle fire to warm, throw them back into the basin and again into the saucepan ; do this two or three times, that they may get thoroughly : pepper, salt, and a little bit of butter. blended. Keep the mixture stirred one way till hot, but do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Cut slices of bread, toast, and butter them while hot. Serve with the buttered eggs on the top. Time, about five minutes to make the eggs hot. Probable cost, 1s.4d. Sufficient for four persons. Eggs Cooked without Boiling.—By this very simple process eggs are said to be lighter and better adapted to delicate stomachg than by the old and general plan of boiling. Proceed as follows :—Heat a basin with, boiling water till it is thoroughly hot; then throw off the water and put the eggs to be cooked into it, moving them round so that every part shall receive the heat. Have ready a kettle of boiling water, pour this over the eggs, and cover the basin to prevent any steam from escaping. In twelve minutes they will be perfectly cooked. _ Hegs, Curried.—Fry a couple of middle- sized onions in butter, and stir into the pan, as soon as the onions are slightly browned, one table-spoonful of curry-powder. Mix well, and add by degrees half a pint of veal stock; keep stirring the sauce until it is smooth and thick. When the mixture has simmered from ten to fifteen minutes, add, carefully stirring, two table-spoonfuls of cream, and let.it simmer a few minutes longer. Have ready sliced half a dozen hard-boiled eggs, lay them in the curry sauce long enough to get quite hot, then serve both together on a dish. Time, half an hour to pre- pare; eight or ten minutes to boil eggs. Suffi- cient, two eggs for each person. Eggs, Devilled.—Cut four hard-boiled eggs into halves, remove the yolks without breaking the whites; mix the yolks with a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, a little cayenne pepper and salt, and fill the white-cups with it ; set them to stand, by cutting off the pointed tip, on a dish, surround them with small cress and finely-cut lettuce. Time, fifteen minutes to boil eggs. Eggs, Dished.—Take a strong earthern or a metal dish. Butter theinside well. Break into it, without damaging the yolks, as many eggs as it will hold without their lying one upon the other. On the top of each arp e' them into the oven upon the stove, or in an American oven before the fire; watch their progress, and as soon as the butter is all melted, and the whites well set, serve. The heat of the dish will cook them a little more after they are taken from the oven. Eggs so done are often preferable to fried eggs. They are free from the tough brown under-surface to which the latter are liable, which also is indigestible, even when it is rather crisp than horny. © Eees (en Marinade).—Mix equal quan- titiew e a. and good veal gravy, two table- spoonfuls of each, with a tea-spoonful of vinegar and a seasoning of pepper and salt; put it into a stewpan, and stir in gradually two well-beaten yolks of eggs. When it thickens, and before it boils, have ready half a dozen nicely-poached eggs, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with parsley. Time, ten minutes to prepare. Sufficient for three persons. EGG ( 200 ) EGG Egps (for Salad).—Remove the shells care- fully from six hard-boiled eggs, cut them in halves lengthwise, and carefully take out the yolks. Pound these with two ounces of ham, one ounce of anchovies, the same of veal and fat bacon, salt, cayenne, and mace to taste, add also a spoonful of minced sweet herbs, and one of parsley. Fill the eggs neatly with this forcemeat, smooth them to a round shape with the blade of a large knife, and place a star of beetroot upon each one. When thus prepared use them to garnish salad. If preferred, the eggs can be put on a dish, and served with well-flavoured brown sauce poured round them. In this case they may be garnished with fried sippets. E for Supper.—Beat up six eggs, yolks and ohice sedis them two or three young onions and some parsley shred very fine; season with salt and pepper. Mix the above with equal quantities of melted butter and grated cheese, about two ounces of each, and fry lightly, stirring the mixture briskly while in the pan (see Omelet). Time, six to eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Eggs for Supper (another way).—Take a little nicely-flavoured brown gravy, and put it into a shallow pie-dish which has been well buttered. Place it in the oven, and let it remain until it boils, then take it out and break into it as many eggs as will lie side by side ‘together. Sprinkle seasoned bread -crumbs over all, and place the dish again in the oven until the eggs are set. Have ready one or two rounds of toast. Take the eggs up carefully with a slice, lay them on the toast, pour the gravy over all, and serve hot. Eggs Fricasseed.—Boil three eggs hard, and lay them in cold water. Melt a slice of butter in a stewpan, and throw in a small onion finely chopped; fry till soft. Mix a dessert- spoonful of ‘flour with the butter to a smooth paste, add two table-spoonfuls of gravy, and stir till thick. Cut the eggs into quarters, and lay them gently in the gravy. Shake the pan round, then throw in a small cupful of cream, shake the pan again, but do not break the eggs. When the sauce is thick and fine, put the eggs on a dish, and serve with the sauce thrown over, and a garnish of lemon round the dish. Time: ten minutes to boil eggs, ten minutes to prepare the fricassee, Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Eggs, Fricasseed (another way).—Boil eight eggs fifteen minutes, take off the shells: and cut the white parts of them in two length- wise. Preserve the yolks whole, and put them in the middle of a dish, cut the whites into fine strips, or any other shape liked, and lay them round ; pour white sauce over, or a mixture of mustard and melted butter, and serve hot. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for four persons. Eggs, Fricasseed, White.—Boil six eggs hard, and slice them, each egg into half a dozen slices. Make a sauce as follows :—Chop some parsley, a piece of shallot, and a. few mushrooms, all very finely; put these into a stewpan with two ounces of butter; add salt and. pepper, and stew, but do not brown till quite done. Thicken with flour mixed with a small cupful of cream. Lay the slices of egg in; give the whole a boil, and serve. This fricassee may be varied by substituting a good, rich brown gravy for the cream. ‘Time, ten to fifteen minutes to boil the eggs. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. for this quantity. Sufficient for three or four persons. Eggs, Fried.—The frying-pan should be derumataly clean, or the white part of the egg will be spoiled. Dripping, butter, or oil may be used. Break the eggs first into a cup, and slip each one into the pan as soon as it is hot. As the eggs fry raise their edges with a slice, give them a slight shake, and ladle a little of : the butter over the yolk. In two or three minutes they will be done; take them out with the slice, pare off the rough edges, and drain from the greasy moisture. Serve on slices of bacon, or lay them in the middle of a dish with bacon or ham as a garnish. Probable cost, 1d. to 2d. each. Allow two eggs for one: person. j Eggs, Fried (another way).—Break the eggs into a pan of boiling fat, one by one, and fry them, taking care that the yolks do not harden. Serve them with white sauce or gravy, or with. a forcemeat of sorrel. Eggs,-Frothed.—Mix the juice of alemon with a table-spoonful of water, and beat up with it the yolks of eight eggs and the whites. of four. Sweeten to taste, and add a pinch of salt. Put the mixture into an omelet-pan and fry carefully. Have ready four whites of eggs. whipped with a pound of fine sugar to a high froth, and flavoured with vanilla or lemon. Place the omelet on a dish, and heap the frothed egg over it. Brown it lightly in an oven or before the fire. Time to fry, about five minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for: four persons. Eggs in Paper Cases,—Make a season- ing with a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, one of green onions, a clove of garlic, some pepper, salt, and a cupful of fine bread-crumbs. Have- ready some small paper cases; dissolve some: butter and paint them with a small brush till they are lined thickly with it, then sprinkle a little seasoning into each. Break six eggs singly into a cup, and put one on the top of the crumbs in each case, and cover with more. Bake ina gentle oven until the eggs are set. Serve in the cases. If preferred, the eggs can be baked in small moulds, and can be turned on a dish for serving. Eggs, Jumbled.—Break four eggs intoa stewpan with two ounces of butter and a season- ing of salt and pepper ; let them set over a clear fire, and stir till the mixture becomes rather solid ; then remove, and serve with or without a ragotit of vegetables, celery, lettuce, spinach, sorrel, or asparagus tops. If neither be liked, send to table upon slices of hot buttered toast. Time, five minutes. Probable cost, without. vegetables, 6d. Sufficient for three oz four persons. EGG ( 201 ) EGG Eggs, Jumbled (another way).—Break six or more eggs into a basin, and beat them with a table-spoonful of gravy and a flavourin, of pepper and salt. If wanted, very oa minced truffles, mushrooms, ham, or tongue may be added. Put a piece of butter into a stewpan, pour in the eggs, and stir till they are sufficiently done. This is an exceedingly con- venient and agreeable breakfast dish. It re- quires very little time to cook, and may be varied according to taste. It is usually served on toast hot and buttered. Time, about five minutes. Allow two eggs for each person. Eggs, Liaison of, for Thickening Sauces.— When eggs are used for thickening great care is required to keep the sauce from boiling, and the least cessation from stirring during the heating process will spoil the whole contents of the saucepan. Make a liaison as follows :—Beat well the yolks of three eggs, and add to them three small wine-glassfuls of cream or two and a half glassfuls of milk. When well mixed, strain through a sieve. Eggs, Pickled.—Remove the shells from three or four dozen hard-boiled eggs; do not break them, but arrange carefully in large- mouthed jars. Boil one pint of vinegar, with allspice, ginger, and a couple of cloves of garlic. When the flavour of the spice is extracted, add another pint of vinegar, bring it to a boil, and pour scalding hot over the eggs. When cold, seal up the jars for a month. This will be found a cheap pickle when eggs are plentiful, and for its piquancy is much liked. Eggs, Plover’s.—These eggs are much esteemed for their rich flavour, and the beau- tiful colour of the white part, which is much used for decorating salads. When boiled hard they are eaten hot or cold; but with « good brown gravy or some béchamel sauce they make a dainty breakfast dish. Eggs, Poached.—Put a pint of water into a stewpan, with four tea-spoonfuls of vinegar, and half a tea-gpoonful of salt ; place it over the fire, and while boiling break the eggs into it near the surface of the water, and let it boil gently about three minutes. Lay upon a dish a thin piece of toasted bread ; take the eggs out carefully with a small slice, and lay the slice with the eggs upon a cloth for a second, to drain the water from them; then set them carefully upon the toast, and serve very hot. Much depends upon the careful breaking and boiling of the eggs. If the yolk separates from the white, is may be presumed that the egg is not fresh, but it may be eatable, for the same thing may happen through awkwardness in poaching. Again, the toast upon which the eggs are served may be buttered either with plain butter, or two small pats of butter may be melted, without boiling, and poured over. To prevent the unsightly admixture of the yolk with the white, the following simple method is recommended :—Use a large stewpan, nearly filled with boiling water; pour two table-spoonfuls of hot water into a saucer, and break the egg carefully in the centre of the saucer, then gently lift it, and place it on the surface of the water in the stewpan ; the instant the yolk sets, take out the saucer, and remove the egg with a slice to the dish required. Eggs, Poached (another way).—Remove the skin from a boiled or roast chicken, and pound the meat in a mortar with two ounces of good fresh butter. Bind it with the beaten yolk of an egg, put it in a mould, and surround it with boiling water till hot through. Have ready a slice of bread nicely fried in butter, and four or five eggs poached. When the chicken mixture is hot, place it on a dish with the eggs over it, and the sippets of fried bread with slices of fried mushroom arranged alter- nately as a garnish. Time, ten to twelve minutes; to poach eggs, about three minutes and a half. Sufficient for three or four persons. Eggs, Poached in Gravy.—Take quite fresh eggs, break half a dozen into separate tea-cups, and slip each very gently into a stew- pan of boiling water, one pint in quantity, to which has been added a wine-glassful of vinegar and a tea-spoonful of salt, previously boiled, but set to cool. Put the stewpan over the fire, and as the eggs set, remove them with a slice into a large flat dish, and be very careful not to break them. Trim, drain, and serve them in a rich brown gravy. Probable cost, 7d. or 8d. Sufficient for three persons. Eggs, Poached with Cream.—Put half a eit of cream into a small saucepan, and season it with salt, pepper, and pounded sugar to taste. Let it warm gradually, and when ready to boil, remove it from the fire and stir in an ounce of butter; keep moving the saucepan round until the butter is dissolved. Have ready four or five fresh eggs poached; lay them on a dish, pour the sauce quickly over, and serve. Time, three to four minutes to poach the eggs. Probable cost, 9d. Allow two eggs for each person. Eggs, Potted.—Pound the hard-boiled yolks of twelve eggs with anchovy sauce. Mix them to a paste with two ounces of good fresh butter, and season with two tea-spoontuls of salt and one of white pepper. Have ready some small pots, and chop the whites of the eggs very small. As the pots are being filled with the paste,-strew in the chopped whites, and cover over the tops: with clarified butter. These eggs will not keep long. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. for this quantity. Eggs, Preserved.—Whatever process be adopted, the eggs should always be newly laid. A solution of gum arabic, if not too expensive, will be found to answer well. Smear the eggs thoroughly, and, when dry, cover with powdered charcoal, bran, or saw- dust. They may also be preserved by plung- ing them in a net in boiling water for about twenty seconds, and then packing in bran, &c. To keep a longer time, make a solution of quick-lime, salt, and cream of tartar, in the proportion of three pounds of lime, one ounce of cream of tartar, and half a pound of salt, to about five or six quarts of boiling water. When quite cold, cover the eggs with the solution, and throw a thick covering over the vessel. Salt, as in all cases of food preservation, EGG ( 202 ) EGG is good here. Cover the bottom of a box or barrel with salt, and lay in as many eggs as it will take without touching each other. Throw in salt, fihely powdered, enough to fill up the spaces between the eggs, and to make another layer or cover. Continue to place eggs and salt alternately, and let the top be at least an inch deep of salt; press the salt down firmly, that no air shall enter to the eggs, and cover with a cloth and a tight-fitting lid. Store in a dry, cool place. Eggs, Purée of.—Boil seven eggs hard; take off the whites, chop them very small and put them aside. Pound the yolks in a mortar; add to them rather less than two ounces of good fresh butter, a little chopped parsley, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Bind with the beaten yolks of three uncooked eggs, and pass the mixture through a colander into the middle of « dish. Put the minced whites into a stew- pan with half a pint of gravy, and stir till thickish, then pour it round the yolks, and garnish with sippets of bread, which should be brushed over with egg. Brown slightly, either in a Dutch oven or before the fire, and serve hot. Time, ten minutes to boil the eggs. Suffi- cient for three persons. Eggs, Ragofit of.—Boil twelve eggs hard, and with a small knife carefully divide the whites lengthways into halves, taking care to keep the yolks whole and the whites unbroken. Place the yolks and whites in nice order ina dish, the hollow parts of the whites uppermost, and fill them as high as possible with fried bread-crumbs. Now make a sauce as follows: Boil half an ounce of truffles and morels in three or four table-spoonfuls of water, and chop them very fine with a quarter of a pint of pickled mushrooms. Mince some parsley, boil it in the water saved from the truffies, add three more table-spoonfuls of water, a gill of red wine, a spoonful of ketchup, a little grated nutmeg and mace, with a bit of butter rolled in flour; boil all together, and throw the mixture over the eggs. Eggs, Savoury.—Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, first rubbing the bottom of it with a clove of garlic. When the butter has become very hot, stir in five eggs previously well beaten, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and a grain of cayenne; continue to stir quickly till done, and send to table on a hot dish. Time, about four minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient: for two persons. . Eggs, Scrambled (American).—This dish differs very little in its mode of preparation from our “mumbled” or “jumbled” eggs. ‘When the pan has been well oiled with good butter, put into it as many eggs as it will hold separately, that each yolk may be entire. ‘When the whites have become slightly hard, stir from the bottom of the pan till done, adding a piece of butter, pepper, and salt. When done, the yolks should be separate from the whites although stirred together. Serve on hot buttered toast with anchovy sauce, potted meat, cheese, or fish spread over it first... The eggs should be of the consistency of butter. Time, five minutes. Eggs, Scotch.—Prepare a forcemeat of bread-crumbs, grated ham, an anchovy pounded, and mixed spices. Roll five hard-boiled eggs, freed from their shells, first into beaten egg, and then into the forcemeat. Put some good dripping or lard into a frying-pan, and brown the eggs slightly in it, turning them round that all sides may be done alike. Serve with good rich gravy in a tureen. Time, ten minutes to boil the eggs. Probable cost, 8d. or 10d. Eggs, Spun (éufs en Filagramme).— This preparation is used principally as a gar- nish for other sweet dishes. Prepare a syrup of sugar, white wine, and water, and beat up eight eggs witha dessert-spoonful of arrowroot. Boil the syrup in a large stewpan, and when it is quite hot, force the mixture of egg and arrow- root through a colander into the boiling syrup. It will harden immediately, and must be taken up, drained for a little time, and then piled on a dish. If eaten hot, serve at once. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Eggs, Steamed.—Break half a dozen eggs into separate cups, and have ready a well-but- tered dish, into which each egg should be placed carefully. Cover the dish to prevent the heat from escaping, and set if over a pan of boil- ing water, first putting small bits of butter lightly over the top of the eggs. When the are set sufficiently, sprinkle them with a little salt, and serve with fried ham or sausages. Time, about four minutes to set. Eggs, Swan’s (en Salade).—Cut the eggs, when boiled hard (see Eggs, Swan’s, to Boil), in halves, pound the yolks with an ounce and a half of good fresh butter, and season with minced herbs or shallot, cayenne, and salt ; add two tea-spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, and the same of chili vinegar. Fill the white halves with this mixture, and set them in a bowl of prepared salad, or ornament a lobster or German salad with them. Eggs, Swan’s, To Boil.—Put the eggs into quite boiling water and let them stay with- out boiling for twenty minutes. See that the water quite covers them, then boil slowly for a quarter of an hour. Let them rest in the water five minutes before removing them, and cover them up while cooling. Swan's eggs retain their heat a long time. They should not be cut until quite cold, and should then be divided into halves lengthwise. Eggs, Turkey’s, To Dress.—Choose those of the young bird for cooking in the shell. They may be known by their pale, almost white colour. The larger ones are excellent for poaching, and to serve in the composition of any dishes where eggs are required. Time, six minutes to boil, four to poach. Eggs, Whisked.—A common wire whisk, as represented in the engraving, is the best for this purpose. Break the eggs to be whisked separately (the yolks from the whites), and remove the speck from each one with a three- pereee fork before commencing to whisk. 3eat: the yolks till they are light, and the whites till no liquid remains in the bowl: they should be a strong solid froth. Experience, however, ELD ( 203 ) ELE is the best guide for this culinary process. No time can be specified, as much depends on the steadiness of the person manipulating. ’ EGG WHISKS. Elder.—The common elder-tree is found in all parts of Britain. Its berries and flowers are much used, as may be seen from the following recipes. We may mention, in addition, that an odorous water, used as a perfume, is prepared by distilling the flowers. Elder-wine is specially in demand about Christmas-time. It is gene- rally drunk hot or mulled. In some parts of Germany, the poorer classes use the berries as an ingredient in soup. Elderberry Ketchup, for Fish Sauce.—Pick a pint of ripe elderberries from the stalks, and put them into an earthen jar. Pour over them a pint of boiling vinegar, and let them remain in a cool oven all night. Strain the liquor from the berries without squeezing them, and put it into a saucepan with an ounce of shallots, a blade of mace, an inch of whole ginger, a tea-spoonful of cloves, and a tea- spoonful of peppercorns. Boil for six or eight minutes, and bottle the ketchup, when cold, with the spices. Sufficient for one pint and a half of ketchup. Probable cost, 1s. ELDERBERRY. Elder Brandy.—Pick the berries when fully ripe. Have ready a press for drawing off the juice, and four hair-cloths somewhat broader than the press; lay one above another, having a hair-cloth between each layer, which must be laid very thin and pressed a littleat first, and then more, till the press be drawn as close as possible. Now take out the berries, and press all the rest in like manner. Next take the pressed berries, break out all the lumps, put them into an open- headed vessel, and add as much liquor as will just cover them. Let them infuse for seven or eight days, then put the juice first drawn into a cask proper for it to be kept in, and add two gallons of malt spirits to every twenty gallons of elder-juice, which will effectually preserve it from becoming sour for two years at least. A little sugar and a few cloves make a great im- provement in the brandy. Elder-flower and Tarragon Vinegar. —Fill a bottle with the aidan feats and oan upon them as much vinegar as they will take; let them rest for a fortnight, when the vinegar may be strained and put into bottles of smaller size. The fresh-gathered leaves of any sweet herb may be infused, and their flavour extracted in the same manner. Elder Rob.—Extract the juice from some elderberries by putting the fruit into a jar and setting it in water to boil until the berries are soft. Put half a pound of good brown sugar with every pint of juice thus extracted, and boil the sugar and juice for a whole hour, skimming the liquid as it rises. Elder Tops, To Pickle.— About six inches of the tops of young elder sprouts, if cut at.the right time—in the middle of April—will make a good pickle. The sprouts should be first blanched in boiling water, then pickled in vinegar, adding salt and white pepper. Elder Wine.—Take quite ripe berries, and after stripping them from the stalks, steep them for five or six days in a tub of water, pressing them frequently during the time. Squeeze out the juice, and pass it through a fine sieve into the vessel in which it is to be boiled; add to each gallon three pounds of good brown sugar, and to every four gallons half a pound of ginger, two ounces of cloves, and an ounce or more of allspice. Boil for rather more than half an hour, then pour the wine into a tub or open cask, put with it some yeast on a piece of toast, and cover it over to work for four or five days, at the end of which time skim and remove it to the cask to ferment. The vent-peg must be loose until the fermentation has ceased, when the cask may be tightly closed, and the wine, after two months’ rest, will be good, but better amonth or two later. A quart of brandy thrown into the cask when it is about'to be sealed up will greatly improve the wine. Elder Wine (another way).—Boil twenty- five pounds of elderberries in eleven gallons of water for one hour, and add to them an ounce of allspice and two ounces of ginger. When oiled the full time, allow four pounds of sugar to agallon: put the sugar into a tub, and throw the boiling liquid over it, straining and pressing all the juice from the fruit. Add a quarter of a pound of cream of tartar, and Jet the liquid stand in the same tub for two days; then remove it to a cask, and cover the bunghole with a tile. Stir the liquid every alternate day, and fill up as it wastes. When the fermentation has ceased, close up the barrel, and when it has rested four months, bottle for use. Brandy may be added when the cask is closed. Probable cost, 8s. per gallon. Elecampane, or Candy Cake.—Boil any quantity of loaf sugar to candy height, EMP ( 204 ) END and colour it with cochineal until it is of the proper tint. When it has sufficiently boiled it will assume a whitish appearance, and may then be poured out on a slab, and divided into squares. Empress Pudding.—Take equal quan- tities of powdered sugar and butter, about six ounces of each. Turn the butter back to cream, mix four well-beaten yolks of eggs with it; add the sugar, and when the whole is well mixed, throw in by degrees six ounces of flour, and beat all thoroughly together. Bake in a brisk oven in small cups; only half fill them, as the batter will rise to the top in baking. Serve with cinnamon sauce. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Empress Pudding (another way).—Put enough fresh milk in a well-lined saucepan to pulp half a pound of rice. Let the rice soften over avery slow fire, and, when quite done, add two ounces of butter and stir till it is dissolved. Set the rice by to cool: when it has cooled, stir in three well-beaten eggs. Puta layer of rice into a dish lined with puff paste, place a layer of any kind of jam over it, and fill up the dish alternately with rice and jam. This pudding may be eaten cold, in which case it should be served with a boiled custard poured over it. Bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for six or more persons. Endcliffe Buns.—Take eighteen ounces of flour, six ounces of sugar, four ounces of butter, half an ounce of baking-powder, one egg, six ounces of currants or sultana raisins, and half a pint of new milk. Rub the powder into the flour, then rub in the butter, adding the sugar, currants, or raisins, the egg—well beaten—and the milk. Mix all together, and bake in tins in a rather hot oven, first sifting over the buns a little powdered sugar. Endive.—This plant has long been cul- tivated as a garden vegetable. The cut-leaved or “curled” endive is preferred for the table in this country, but the dwarf white Batavian endive is much more delicate and agreeable to ‘the palate. The seed is usually sown in Britain from the middle of May to the end of June, and by a little care plants may be kept fit for use almost all the winter. FRENCH ENDIVE. Endive (French method).—Take half a dozen heads of endive for a dish, and choose those which are fresh and yellow. Strip away the outer leaves, and cut off the stalks to separate the other leaves, and wash the endive in several waters. This vegetable needs to be washed with scrupulous care, because it usually contains a good deal of grit. Throw the endive into a stewpan half filled with boiling water ENGLISH ENDIVE, slightly salted, leave the pan uncovered, and boil quickly till the endive is tender. It will take about twenty-five minutes. Drain it in a colander, press all the moisture from it, and either chop it very finely or rub it through a wire sieve. The latter method is to be preferred. Melt half an ounce of butterin a clean stewpan,. mix half an ounce of flour with it, beat it toa paste, add salt and pepper, a tea-spoonful of’ white sugar, and a gill of cream. Stir the: sauce till smooth and thick, put in the endive,. and keep stirring till the pulp is firm enough. to be piled upon a dish, then serve with fried sippets round the endive. If liked, broth can be used instead of cream in making the sauce- for the endive. Time to boil the endive, twenty. - five minutes; to stew it with the sauce, about ten minutes. Probable cost of endive, 2d. per: head. Sufficient for five or six persons. Endive, Dressed.—There are many varieties of endive: the green curled sort is. principally used for salads. Those who like the: bitterness of this vegetable will find it, when cooked according to the recipes here given, a wholesome and agreeable change during the summer. The green leaves may be boiled like those of any other vegetable, only changing the water twice to take off the bitterness. After: boiling till tender, throw the endive into cold water for ten minutes; then squeeze out the water, and when dry chop and stew with butter, gravy, or, like spinach, beat it smooth, and serve- round cutlets, or alone, with bread sippets as a garnish. Time to boil, half an hour. Probable- cost, 1d. to 2d. per head. Endive, Dressed,for Second Course. —Use salted water plentifully for this vege- table. Plunge the heads, after removing the- green leaves, into it. When thoroughly free from grit and insects, boil quickly, drain, and finely chop them. Put a pint of good stock or veal gravy into a stewpan, with half a dozen heads. so prepared; add w tea-spoonful of pounded sugar and a little salt, and stew till tender. ‘When ready to serve, thicken with butter and flour, and stir in a table-spoonful of lemon-. juice, or add a little Espagnole sauce, and serve with a fricandeau of veal; or with poached eggs. on the top. Time, half an hour to boil; about five minutes to simmer in gravy. Probable cost, 1d. to 2d. per head. Sufficient for three or: four persons. Endive, Stewed.—Strip off the outer green leaves from half a dozen heads of endive. Use salted water’ plentifully, to dislodge the insects ; soak the heads in it, then drain, and boil them twenty-five minutes in water salted slightly. Have ready a stewpan with an ounce: of butter, and when the endive has been squeezed dry and the butter melted, put it into the pan, and adda salt-spoonful of salt, pepper, and a gill of cream. Let all get thoroughly hot, and move- the contents of the pan while heating. Pro- bable cost, 1d. to 2d. per head. Sufficient for three or four persons. Endive, with Veal Gravy.—Strip of the outer leaves from half a dozen heads of endive, and blanch the heads by throwing them into hot water and then into cold. Drain well, END ( 205 ) EVE and stew until tender in good gravy, just enough to cover them. Add velouté sauce, or thicken with butter rolled in flour. Serve quite hot. Any highly-seasoned sauce would spoil the flavour of this vegetable. A littlo salt and sugar to the gravy is all that is necessary.. Time, from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 1d. to 2d. per head. Sufficient for three or four persons. Endive, with Winter Salad.—An ornamental and wholesome dish of salad may be made in winter principally by the aid of this plant. Only a little cress, celery, and beetroot will be necessary to form a striking contrast to the crisp, blanched leaves of the endive, which may be arranged (en Jouguet)inthe centre, or interspersed with the other materials through the bowl. Endive may be had good from November till March. ‘ English Stew.—Siew for two hours three pounds of rump of beef, cut into small pieces and free from fat, in a quart of good stock or gravy. Season with a little cayenne and salt ; then add a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, the grated rind of one large lemon, a table-spoonful of rice-flour, evenly mixed with three table- spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup and a tea- spoonful of soy. Stew for a quarter of an hour, when the dish will be ready to serve. This ‘dish may be improved by a glass or two of port or white wine, or with any well-flavoured store sauce. Itmay be also garnished with sippets of fried bread, forcemeat balls, or young cucum- bers, A good cook will know how to vary English stew in twenty different ways, by introducing mushrooms, green peas, rice, half- boiled new potatoes, spring carrots, or curry- ‘powder. Sufficient for five or six persons. Epicurean Sauce.—This is a good sauce for fish, added to melted butter or any kind of gravy, and is made by mixing with half a pint of walnut ketchup an equal quantity of chili vinegar, and adding a pint and a half of mush- room ketchup, and three table-spoonfuls of Indian soy. Shake the ingredients well to- gether, and bottle for use. Probable cost, 2s. Erechtheum Pudding.—Put one pint of fresh milk into a basin, and add to it two table-spoonfuls of fine sugar, a pinch of salt, ‘and half a dozen drops of essence of ratafia. Beat six new-laid eggs two or three minutes, then mix them with the milk in the basin. Put the mixture into a well-buttered mould, and place this in a stewpan containing boiling water. Let the water boil gently, and do not let it reach higher than half up the mould. As soon as the pudding is set and firm in the centre it is done. Serve, turned out of the mould, with a sauce made as follows :— Put two eggs, a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar, and two drops of ratafia ina stewpan; warm slightly—less than half a minute will do this; then whisk to a firm froth, and pour it over the pudding. Sufficient for two or three persons. Probable cost, 1s, 3d. _ Erfurt, or German Puddings.—This is a favourite sweet dish in. Germany, and only requires. a little care to be successfully made. Prepare as follows:—Make a batter of one pound of flour, three full dessert-spoon- fuls of yeast, and « thixd of a pint of warm milk. Set it to rise before the fire, but not too near, or it will be heavy. After it has well risen, knead it into a dough, with a quarter of a pound of good fresh butter, two ounces of finely- sifted sugar, five eggs, a pinch of salt, and a little more warm milk. These ingredients should be first mixed with the milk, and then worked into the dough, and all should be well beaten till quite smooth. Set the mixture once more near the fire to rise, and when fit, make it into little round balls; sprinkle each ball with powdered sugar, and put them into a stewpan, with a large piece of butter, and enough milk to cover them. When the milk gets hot the balls will swell, so plenty of space must be given, and on no account should they touch each other. When about twice their original size, put them into an oven to brown —a few minutes will be sufficient. They may be sent to table with jam as a garnish, or served on a napkin, and with w tureen of hot custard flavoured with rum as an accom- paniment. Time, three-quarters of an hour for the sponge to rise; to stew, fifteen minutes; and to bake, five to ten. Probable cost, 1s, 3d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Escaveeke Sauce.—Pound three cloves of garlic in a mortar with half a dozen shallots, two dessert-spoonfuls of coriander-seed, a little salt, a small salt-spoon of pounded ginger, and the same of cayenne. Add the rind of a lemon minced very fine, and pour over all, when boil- ing hot, a pint of the best white wine vinegar. Bottle when cold, and cork tightly for use. Probable cost, 10d. Everlasting Syllabubs.—Put into a rather deep pan two pints of good thick cream, a pint and a half of raisin wine, a pound of fine sugar, and the juice and grated rind of three lemons. Whisk all briskly, and fill glasses, taking off the top as it rises with a « « slice. Ornament with harlequin sugar-plums. If kept in a cold place the everlasting syllabubs will keep eight or ten days. Probable cost, 4s. for this quantity. Everton Toffee.—Put one pound of brown sugar and one tea-cupful of cold water into a pan well rubbed with good fresh butter. Set it over a slow fire, and boil until the sugar has become a smooth, thick syrup, then stir into-it half a pound of butter, and boil for half an hour. When sufficiently boiled, it may. be tested by dropping some on a plate, and if it dries hard and can easily be removed, the toffee is ready for flavouring. For this purpose, add twenty or thirty drops of essence of lemon. Pour the toffee into a wide, well-buttered dish. Tf liked, vinegar may be substituted for the water, then the lemon may be omitted. © Everton Toffee (another way).—Get one pound of treacle, the same quantity of. moist sugar, and half a pound of butter. Put them. in a saucepan large enough to allow of fast boiling over a clear fire. Put in the butter first, and rub it well over the bottom of the saucepan; then add the treacle and sugar, EVE ( 206 ) FAM stirring together gently with « kmife. After the mixture has boiled for about ten minutes, ascertain if it is done in the following way :— Have ready a basin of cold water, and drop a little into it from the point of a knife. If it is sufficiently done, when you take it from the water it will be quite crisp. Now prepare a large shallow tin pan or dish, rubbed all over with butter to prevent its adhering, and into this pour the toffee from the saucepan to get cold, when it can be easily removed. To keep it good, it should be excluded from the air. Eve’s Puddings.—Take equal quantities of flour, fresh butter, and sugar, six ounces of each ; turn the butter back to cream, and beat the sugar and flour into it. Separate the yolks from the whites of four eggs, beat themi till they are light, and add the yolks first, then the whites, to the batter, and lastly, half a dozen pounded almonds, and the grated rind of a small lemon. Beat well, and fill small cups to about half; then set before the fire to rise.. In five minutes they will have sufficiently risen, and may be baked for halfan hour. Exeter Pudding.—Beat up seven eggs with six ounces of moist sugar and a quarter of a pint of rum. Take ten ounces of bread- crumbs, seven ounces of finely-shred suet, and four ounces of sago ; add them gradually to the egg-mixture, with the rind of a small lemon cut very delicately. Beat all together, and when ready, butter a pudding-mould, cover the bottom of it with ratafias, and then throw in some of the mixtu e. Next, lay in slices of spongecake well s; ead with jam, and again the ratafias, filling 1 9 alternately with the mix- ture and slices of spongecake, but finishing with the mixture on the top. Bake in arather quick oven. Make a sauce with a quarter of a pound of black currant jelly, warmed up with a couple of glasses of sherry. Throw it warm over the pudding when turned out of the mould, and serve hot. ‘Time, an hour and a quarter to bake. Probable cost, 28 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. F Fadge.—Dissolve two ounces of butter in a gill of milk, and when warm, stir it into equal quantities of rye and brown flour, two ounces of each; throw ina little salt, and mix into a firm paste. This cake is best baked on a griddle; it should be turned frequently to prevent its being burnt. It will take nearly one hour to bake if made of the proper thickness, three- quarters of an inch. Probable cost, 4d. Fadge (Inisu Recipe ror).—Mix one pound of fine wheaten flour to a firm dough with half a pint of milk warmed sufficiently to dissolve three ounces of butter. Put salt to the flour, and stir the milk briskly into the middle of it. Mix to a stiff paste. Roll out on a pasteboard, and cut it into cakes three- quarters of an inch thick. Bake on a griddle equally on hoth sides, for one hour. Probable cost, 74d. Sufficient for six cakes. Fagadu Bradu.—Take of spinach that. has been well washed and drained, enough for a dish; stew it over a slow fire until half done, then press out all the moisture, and add to it. the whole of a lobster cut into bits—small ones,. and seasoned with cayenne and salt to taste— two table-spoonfuls of eurry-powder, and two: ounces of butter. Stew till the spinach is quite: tender, which will be in about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3s. Faggots, Baked.—Make « mincemeat. of calf’s liver, or, if more convenient, pig’s. liver and fresh fat pork. Chop very finely one pound and a half of liver with half a pound of fresh fat pork. Season the mince with onion, sage, thyme, salt, and pepper. Steam it over: boiling water, and throw off allfat. When cold, add a large cupful of bread-crumbs, and three well-beaten eggs; mix all together thoroughly, flavour with nutmeg, and make up into round balls which may be baked in a buttered dish with a small quantity of good gravy, or, as is. often done, wrapped separately in a piece of pig’s caul. Hither way they should be of a pale brown, and cooked very slowly. Time: to steam mincemeat, half an hour; to bake, until done a pale brown. Fairy Fancies.—For this pretty, fan- ciful pastry make first a good short crust (see Crust, Short, Common). When very thinly and evenly rolled out, cut with a tin cutter, procured for the purpose, as many sheets. of crust for the foundation of the pastry as are required; then, with a round tin cutter: of about an inch in diameter, and another of half the size, make eight rings of crust, and carefully place two—one of each size, the largest at the bottom—on the four corners of the foundation previously formed. The rings. should be brushed with white of egg to make them adhere. Bake in aslow oven, as the pastry should Se ofa pale tint. When cold, fill each of the four rounds with differently-coloured jams. or jellies. The above may also be iced with sugar, or made of almond paste, and the rings: coloured according to fancy, and filled “with whipped cream. Family Soup.—Peel and slice two pounds of potatoes, two carrots, a turnip, and a middle- sized onion. Put the onion intoa frying-pan with two pounds of soup beef and half a pound of lean bacon also sliced; add a small cabbage well chopped, and fry till the meat is slightly browned. Drain from the fat, put the meat and sliced vegetables into a stewpan with two quarts. of water, and add, after it has simmered one hour, two quarts more of water. Skim carefully before adding the water, which should be poured. in by degrees. When the vegetables are done, rub them to a smooth pulp through a colander, and when the meat has stewed three hours re- move it from the stewpan, and simmer the whole for some time longer. Strain, thicken with the potato, put the meat back cut up into small bits, and serve hot with toasted sippets. Probable cost, 6d. per quart. Sufficient for twelve persons. Family Soup (another way).—Put eight or ten pounds of leg of beef, the most fleshy FAN ( 207 ) FEN part, into a sducepan that will hold water in the proportion of one quart to every pound of meat. Throw in a small quantity of salt and make the pot boil, and when the scum rises, clear it thoroughly off. Draw the pot aside and let the soup simmer gently three hours, then put in all sorts of vegetables, three or four carrots, a couple of heads of celery, a small cabbage, or, if preferred, tomatoes, a bunch of herbs tied in muslin, some sliced onion fried, and, half an hour before the soup is ready, some turnip cut into small dice. If the meat be required for table, take it out when tender, which will be after it has stewed from four to five hours. The carrots and cabbage may be boiled whole and served with the meat. Strain the soup, and thicken with flour. Small pieces of the meat should be sent to table in the tureen. For a small family, where so large a quantity is not required at once, this soup, made according to the direc- tions just given, will be found equally good the second day if only heated and not boiled. Probable cost of beef, 8d. to 9d. per pound. Fanchonettes.—Put a lining of good puff paste round some tartlet-pans, and fill with a custard, Makeit asfollows :—Beat four eggs till they are light, stir into them two ounces of sugar and butter (the butter must be beaten. till it is like cream), three-quarters of a pint of milk, and three dessert-spoonfuls of flour. When thoroughly mixed, simmer in a well-lined saucepan until thick—the mixture should not _ boil—and flavour with lemon, bitter almonds, or any essence preferred. When baked, slip the fanchonettes out of the pans, and while they are cooling whisk the whites of two eggs to a froth, and stir into the froth two ounces of finely-powdered sugar, with which mixture smooth the tops of the tartlets. This icing must be set for five minutes in the oven, but eare must be taken to prevent the tartlets from colouring. Send to table on a white napkin garnished with coloured jelly arranged between the tartlets and around them. ‘Time to bake, twenty minutes. Sufficient to fill one dozen tartlets. Farferl Paste.—Break an egg into a basin, and beat it well with a two-pronged fork, adding half a cup of water and a little salt. Stir the egg into eight ounces of fine flour ; it will form into flakes. ‘This paste is used for soups, zravies, and ragoits. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, 24d. Sufficient for three pints. Fast-day Sauce.—Use for this fish broth. Blend three table-spoonfuls of flour with four ounces of good butter, put it into a, stewpan with about a pint and a half of the broth, and heat it till it thickens, but it should not boil. Boil in some more broth an onion sliced, a head of celery, a carrot, and some parsley, and when tender pour in the butter and stew all together. Any additional flavouring may be added, and, if liked, a little lemon-juice or vinegar—this last should be white. Strain for use. Ifa brown sauce be required, the flour and butter should be browned before the broth is added, and the vegetables fried brown. in butter. Time, about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Fat or Marrow Pudding.—Rub stale bread through a wire sieve to make half a pint of fine crumbs, Pour upon these a pint and a half of boiling milk, soak awhile, then add, whilst still hot, four ounces of clarified fat, four ounces of raisins, sugar and nutmeg to taste. Beat the mixture till the fat is melted, stir in four eggs, put the pudding into a buttered mould, and boil it for three hours. Fawn, Hashed.—Stew half a dozen mushrooms and a shallot in a pint of good gravy made from the trimmings of venison, or the remains of mutton gravy. Season with pepper and salt. Lay some nice slices of cold fawn in a stewpan with the gravy, let them get hot through, then add a tea-spoonful each of lemon-juice and sugar, and a glass of port wine. Let it stand fora few minutes by the side of the fire, and serve hot. Time, thirty minutes to stew mushrooms, &c., five minutes to warm the slices. Fawn, Roasted.—The hind-quarter is the best, but a small fawn may be roasted whole, larded, stuffed, and trussed like a hare. Cover with a buttered paper, and baste until half done, then remove the larding and paper, and baste the meat liberally till done. Serve witha sauce as follows :—Take half a pint of mutton gravy, and simmer any of the venison trim- mings in it; strain, and add a small pot of currant jelly, a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a large glass of port or claret. Serve hot in atureen. Time to roast fawn, one hour and a half; to simmer gravy with jelly, &c., five minutes. Fennel.—Common fennel is a well-known biennial plant cultivated in our gardens chiefly for its leaves, which are boiled, and served up with several kinds of fish, and especially with mackerel and salmon. Sometimes the leaves are employed to form a fish-sauce. The species of fennel known as sweet fennel is cultivated as a pot-herb in Italy and Portugal, of which countries it is a native. FENNEL. Fennel, Pickled.—Fennel should be tied into bunches, and put into a pan of boiling salted water, and when scalded enough, laid on a cloth till dry. When cold, fill glasses with the fennel, and cover with cold vinegar. Add FEN ( 208 ) FIG. a little nutmeg and mace, and tie down with a bladder and leather to keep out the air. Time, three or four minutes. Fennel Sauce.—Make some good melted butter in the proportion of an ounce and a half ef butter, a dessert-spoonful of flour, and a wine-glassful of water. Blend the butter and flour together, reserving a little of the butter to stir in after it has thickened and been removed from the fire. Chop enough of fennel to fill a table-spoon, and put it with the butter when it is on the point of boiling. Do not let it boil, but simmer for a minute or two, then remove, and stir in the remaining butter. Serve in a tureen. Probable cost, 4d. Suffi- tient for five or six mackerel. Feuilletage.—Press out all the moisture from ene pound of good fresh butter; break two ounces of it into bits, and blend them with one pound of fine wheaten flour; moisten to a paste with two well-beaten yolks of eggs and a little water, the eggs and water being mixed together before being added to the flour. Put the paste on a board, and add the remainder of the butter ; fold the paste ac that the butter may be quite enclosed. Dust flour over the board, and roll out thin ; then fold over, and put the paste by for a few minutes in a cool place. Proceed in the same manner, and again let it stand for a little time, when it will be fit for use. (See also Puff Paste.) Fieldfare.—This is a bird of the thrush tribe, which pays an annual visit to these islands, coming from the northern parts of Europe, where it exists in great numbers. It is small in size, its whole length being but ten inches. It makes its appearance about the beginning of November, affords some sport to youthful sportsmen at Christmas, and leaves us again about February or March. Fieldfare Pasties.—Take half a dozen birds—fieldfares, snipes, woodcocks, quails, and young plovers—draw them, and put the insides into a stewpan with a little butter, first taking out any grit from the gizzards. When they have steamed enough in the butter (they should not brown) take them out, and put the birds into the butter to brown lightly. Remove them; add a little more butter, and stir in three or four eggs well beaten with a tea-cupful of milk. Have ready a forcemeat of veal, bacon, and calf’s liver, in the proportion of one pound and a half of veal.to half a pound of bacon, and the same of liver. Season with pepper, salt, and spice. Stir this mince into the stewpan, and when it is sufficiently dressed, and thick enough, spread a layer over the bottom of a dish, and when a sweetbread is obtainable cut it, when boiled, into pieces the size of a small nut- meg, and mix these with it. The birds and their trails must now be laid on the forcemeat, with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, and a good squeeze of lemon-juice; the rest should be laid upon them, and a cover of paste over all. Bake in a good oven, and pour in a little rich gravy with a funnel when done. Time, three- quarters of an hour to one hour to bake. Pro- bable cost: snipes, 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. the brace; woodcocks, 3s. each; quails, 1s. to 2s.; plovers, 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. the brace. Fieldfares, Roasted.—These birds are trussed and roasted like a partridge. When put before a bright fire, baste well with butter or dripping, and froth nicely a few minutes before serving. Send to table hot on fried bread- crumbs, with a tureen of gravy, and another of bread sauce. Time, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Fieldfares are seldom to be bought. Sufficient for a dish, four. Fife Pie.—Take a nice young rabbit, skin and cut it into pieces about the size of a small egg. Prepare a forcemeat of the liver, par-boiled and minced, some bread-crumbs, a little fat bacon, and a seasoning of lemon-thyme, minced parsley, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, Moisten with an egg, and make into balls. -Cut one pound of bacon into thin slices ; free from rind, sprinkle all with pepper, salt, and nut- meg, and pack it, with the balls, closely into a dish. Pour in a tea-cupful of good gravy, and a small glass of white wine. Bake with a cover of puff paste. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., without wine. Sufficient for five or six persons. Fig Pudding.—Take equal quantities of flour and bread-crumbs, three ounces of each, shred two ounces of suet very finely, mix together and add two ounces of apples weighed after being pared and chopped, four ounces of figs cut up small, and a heaped table-spoonful of sugar, with sufficient milk to make the paste firm, not wet. Put it into a buttered mould, press closely together, and tie down with a cloth. Serve with wine sauce or melted butter. Time, three hours to steam. Probable cost, 6d. Leave room for the pudding to swell in the mould. ' Fig Pudding (another way).—This pud- ding is often made like a roly-poly jam pudding (see Roly-poly Jam Pudding), thus :— Mix three-quarters of a pound of flour and six ounces of finely-chopped suet into a smooth paste with milk. Cut the figs—about one pound—into bits, and put them over the paste, which should be rolled out half an inch thick. "When doubled over, see that the paste is firmly closed at the ends, and tie in a floured cloth to boil. Time, nearly two hours. Pro- bable cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Figs, Green, Compéte of.—Boil one pound of sugar with a pint and a half of water and the rind of half a lemon; take off the scum as it appears, and when it has boiled a quarter of an hour, put in one pint and a half of green figs, and simmer them very slowly till tender, adding a little port wine or lemon-juice. Re move the figs, and boil the syrup up quickly; pour it over the figs, and when cold serve on a glass dish. Time, two to three hours to stew the figs. Probable cost, 2s. to 3s. per dozen. Figs, Preserved.—Take small green figs, wipe, and put them into cold water; do this in the morning, and the next day simmer them till tender. Put them into cold water for three days, changing the water each day. Try ifthey are soft enough for a pin’s head to pierce them FIG ( 209 ) FIS easily; if so, weigh them, and to each pound of fruit allow a pound of sugar. Clarify the sugar, and put the figs into it while hot. Sim- mer for ten or twelve minutes. In a couple of days add the thin rind of a lemon and a little ginger to the syrup, and heat the figs in it again ; do this twice, divide the figs into halves, and put them, in their syrup, into pots. Tie down closely. Figs, Stewed.— Dissolve in an enamelled saucepan a quarter of a pound of fine sugar with a pint of cold water; add to it anything to flavour—orange, lemon, or almond, if pre- ferred. Put into this one pound of the best - Turkey figs, let them have very little heat, so that they may swell; if properly done this compote will be excellent, but the figs must be stewed very slowly, and when tender, a glass or two of port wine and a little lemon-juice should be added. When eaten hot, serve with a border of rice; when cold, send to table on x glass dish. The thin rind of a large lemon boiled with the figs will flavour this dish well. Time, about two hours and a half to stew gently. Findon or “ Finnan’? Haddocks.— These haddocks are held in great esteem for their peculiar and delicate flavour. The genuine i may be known by its odour and FINNAN HADDOCK. creamy yellow colour. Strip off the skin, and broil before the fire or over a quick, clear one. Rub the tish over with butter, and serve hot. Some persons prefer to cut them in pieces and steam them in a basin of boiling water. Heat the basin first, throw boiling water on them, and cover closely with a plate; if kept on a hot stove, they will require from ten to fifteen minutes, and when drained, should be placed on a hot dish and rubbed over with butter. Serve hot. Excellent as a breakfast relish. peaked the haddock may be toasted before the 0. Findon, or “ Finnan’’ Haddocks, Fried.—Rub butter or oil on both sides of the fish, and put it into a frying-pan smeared with either. Shake the pan over a clear fire. In three or four minutes the fish will be sufficiently done. Serve hot, ‘with a little more butter rubbed over. Probable cost, 6d. to 1s. 14—n.£. ‘minutes to bake. Finger Biscuits.—Take six eggs, and divide the yolks from the whites. Beat up the yolks with half a pound of fine sugar; mix for five minutes, and add the whites, well whipped, with five ounces of flour. Flavour with vanilla, lemon, or orange-flower water. Make a paste- board funnel, fill it with the paste, and press the biscuits through the aperture at the end, which should be cut to about three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Make the biscuits in the shape of a finger, and about three inches long. Drop them on a baking-sheet in straight lines. Sprinkle finely-sifted sugar over them, and bake in a moderate oven. They should be a light yellow colour. Time, ten to fifteen u Probable cost of this quan- tity, 1s. Fish Cakes.—Make a savo avy, b boiling down the heads, tails, fis dea. beaibe of any fish, with water enough to cover them. Add onion, herbs, pepper, salt, and a very little mace. With the meat, when well minced, mix a third part of the quantity of bread-. crumbs, and a flavouring of the same kind as that used for gravy. Moisten with melted butter, and bind with white of egg. Cover the cake with raspings, and fry in butter till of a light brown. When the gravy has been strained from the trimmings, put it, with the cake, inta a stewpan, cover close, and stew gently for a quarter of an hour, While the cake is being fried turn a plate over it. Time, eight to ten minutes to fry. Fish Cakes (another way).— Take the fish left from dinner while warm; remove the skin and bones, and mix with mashed potatoes. Add pepper, salt, chopped parsley, and an ounce of butter. Moisten with an egg into a paste, and roll into balls; then flatten and dip into egg. Fry in butter or lard to a nice brown. ‘Time, three-quarters of an hour to prepare. Fish, Cold, To Re-dress.—Put any cold fish—turbot, brill, soles, whiting, or smelt —cut small, into escallop-shells, with bread- crumbs and some good fish sauce— oyster, lobster, or shrimp. Place the shells in a Dutch oven. They will when browned be excellent. Put a little butter on the top of each. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Fish Croquettes of.—Mix over the fire a tea-spoonful of flour, an ounce of butter, and half a gillofcream. Add, off the fire, the yolk of an egg, a little seasoning, and half a pound of cold dressed fish beaten to a paste. Let the mixture cool, and form it into balls, let these be egged and breaded. Fry to a nice brown in hot fat, and serve with gravy, made by boiling down the bones, fins, and tails with an onion. Add an anchovy and seasoning to taste. Probable cost of this quantity, exclusive of cold fish, 4d. ish, Croquettes of (German).—Make a ole De ae piquant ragotit of fish, dis- solving in it enough gelatine to bind it when cold, and a small crpful of bread-crumbs. Cut into pieces, when cold, about the length and size of a finger, and roll them into sausages, to Tr FIS ( 210 ) FIS be brushed over with egg, and coated with a mixture of bread-crumbs and Parmesan. cheese, or bread-crumbs alone, and then fried in hot fat. Garnish with. parsley and any green pickle. ‘Time, fry till brown. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of fish, : Fish Curry.—Cut cod, haddock, sole, or salmon into neat fillets. If salted for a few hours the fish will be better and firmer. Drain, dry, and fry the. fillets for five minutes. Fry also in’ butter. two-onions and a, shallet cut small, .When tender rub them through a sieve, mix with the pulp a table-spoonful. of curry paste, a tea-spoonful of ground rice, and .as much stock as is, required. Boil the sauce till thick, put in the fish, and simmer it till done enough. When ready to serve, throw in a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and send to table with rice as an accompaniment. Probable cost, exclusive of fish, 6d. Fish Cutlets.—Cutlets may be cut from almost any white fish; they may be cooked or raw. Put a quantity of chopped herbs, a bit of shallot, and a seasoning of pepper and salt, into a stewpan with two ounces of butter. Stir in a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies, and as soon as the butter is melted remove’ from the fire to cool. Lay the seasoning over the cutlets thickly, and powder them well with fine bread-crumbs. They may be cooked before . the fire, or in an oven on buttered pans. Have ready some green vegetables stewed’ in good broth; silver button-onions or anything that is in season may be used... Put the .vegetables in the centre of the dish, and arrange the cutlets round. . Time to stew vegetables, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d., exclu- sive of fish. : Fish (en Matelote).—Fish may be served en matelote either whole or divided. Trout, pike, carp, tench, eels, &c., are good cooked in this way. Put an ounce of butter into a stew- pan, and brown a dozen button-onions that have been scalded. Put in the fish, and add a half pint of gravy or stock, a glass of red wine, pepper, salt, allspice, a bay-leaf, and a carrot and turnip cut into slices, Take out the fish, thicken the gravy with flour and butter, and add mushrooms, the button-onions nicely browned, some oysters bearded and scalded, and small fish quenelles. Season to taste with anchovy, cayenne, and lemon-juice, and pour the gravy boiling hot over the fish. Time, three-quarters of an hour. | - ‘ Fish, Essence of.—Thisismade by boiling fresh fish in stock with herbs and vegetables till its flavour is extracted. Fish gravy for making fish sauces and moistening fish patties may be made by stewing the bones, fins, and trimmings of fish which has been filleted before being cooked, in as much water as will cover it. The stock may be flavoured with vegetablesand herbs, and should be freed from fat before being used. Fish, Fat for ing.—Butter and lard are the materials mostly in use for this mode of cooking in England; oil and clarified skimmings are also used. On the continent, where nothing else than oil is used, fried dishes are more delicate, and in appearance superior to those cooked with any other fatty substance. Butter, lard, dripping, or oil may be used for the same purpose two or three times, if care be taken not to burn it during the frying, and carefully to strain it into clean pots or jars (see Fry, To.) Fish, Forcomeat for.—Chop the re- mains of any shell-fish—lobster, crab, &¢.— with the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs; add a little mineed parsley, and the same quantity of bread-crumbs as of fish. Pound all in a mortar, with two ounces of butter, a tea-spoon- ful of salt, half the quantity of pepper, ‘and a flavouring of nutmeg. Stuff any white fish with this forcemeat, mixing it well with the beaten yolk of anegg. (Sse also Oysters, Force- meat of.) 2 ‘ Fish Fricandelles.—Pour milk or wine on the crumb of a French roll, enough to soak it. Cut one pound of cooked or raw fish with- out skin or bone, and a couple of anchovies, into small bits. Season with mace, cayenne, and nutmeg. Beat the yolks of two eggs ‘with the roll, and then add the fish. Mix a little cream, and warm it carefully. Have ready a buttered mould, fill it with the fish, and cover with bread-crumbs. Make hot in the oven, and brown with a salamander or red-hot shovel. . Fish, Fried.—Fish to be ‘nicely fried should be wiped very dry, and floured. before being put into the pan of boiling fat. Next to oil, clarified dripping is the best. Shake the pan gently until hot through. If you want the fish to look very nice, dip it into egg, and sprinkle with bread-crumbs before frying. Drain before the fire, and dish on a hot nap- kin. The time required for this mode of cook- ing will vary according to tho size, quality and thickness of the fish. (See Fry, To.) Fish, Fried (Jewish fashion).. The Jews, like our continental neighbours, use oil for frying. Soyer gives the following excellent recipe for cooking fish:—Lay one or more pounds of halibut in a dish, with salt over the top, and water not to cover the fish. Let it stay one hour for the salt to penetrate.. Drain and dry it; then cut out the bone, and take off the fins. Divide the pieces. into slices half an inch thick. Put a quarter of a pound of oil, butter, lard, or dripping into a frying-pan. Dip the fish into a batter, and fry till the pieces are of a nice colour, and all sides alike, When quite done, take them out with a slice, drain, and serve with any sauce liked. All fish, especially those containing oil, are improved. Pye method—the oil is absorbed. by the atter. Fish, Grilled.—Small thin fish, or large fish divided into slices or fillets are excellent when grilled. This method of cooking is par- ticularly suitable for fish to be served at break- fast. Slices of salmon, cod, or sturgeon; trout, red mullet, herrings fresh and dried,, haddock, whiting, filleted sole or mackerel, the small. soles called ‘‘slips,” and the small plaice called “dabs” may all be grilled, and thus cooked will be tasty and well flavoured.. The: fish FIs ( 211), FIS should first be thoroughly dried, then rubbed all over with oil, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Occasionally @ little’ chopped parsley is added to the seasoning. ‘The oil will keep the fish from becoming‘ dry. whilst’it is being cooked. Be careful to have a cleat bright fire for grilling fish. Make the gridiron hot’ on both sides, and rub it well with mutton fat, to keep the fish from sticking,‘ ‘Place it upon the bars, keep moving it about, and turn it occa- sionally, that it may be equally cooked on both sides. When it is done through and is lightly browned all over it-is ready to serve. -Some- times fish that is to be grilled is floured after it is oiled, and this helps to give it a good colour. When it is wished that the fish should be very delicately prepared it is wrapped in well oiled paper, but this method.requires care, or the paper may burn or become dirty and unsightly. Broiled fish ‘may-either be without sauce, or piquant sauce may be sent to table with it. . Fish, Jelly for.—Boil down 4 skate, cow- heel, or calf’s foot, in three pints of water, until it is reduced to a quart. Skim it ‘carefully, strain it, and. boil it again with a small onion stuck with one or two cloves, a slice of ham, a little parsley, and half an anchovy ‘pounded in butter. flavoured pour it off, remove the fat, and if it is not sufficiently clear clarify it with ‘white of egg. A'glassful of sherry may be added or not. It will be fit for use when cold; and should be laid over the fish roughly. ‘Probable cost, about 1s. for this quantity. ee AR tiger Thy Fish Kedgeree.—Pick some cooked ‘sal- mon, turbot, pr other fish into flakes, and boil a cupful of rice in good white broth; add the fish to the rice, and when hot through, stir in, an egg, and serve. ‘Time, thirty minutes to boil rice.. ‘Probable cost, exclusive of fish, 4d. - Fish Ketchup.—Pick out the meat from a lobster; get one that is full of spawn, and weighs about three pounds. Pound the coral and add it to'the meat, with a small tea-spoon- ful of cayetihe, silt, and some part of a bottle of sherry. When well pounded in a mortar together, add the remainder of the wine, or as much as is necessary. If put into bottles, and the air is kept out of them, the ketchup will keep good for twelve months, and any quantity may be used ‘heated in melted butter. From three'to four table-spoonfuls will be enough for a large tureen of melted butter. . Fish Klosse.—Clear half a pound of .un- ¢8oked fish from skin and bone, and mince two ounces of ‘fat’ bacon’; ‘blend them together with a seasoning of ‘salt, pepper, nutmeg, and parsley. Brown'a shallot, minced finely in a stewpaz, with three ounces of butter, and then stir in‘and mix over the fire for a few minutes three ounces of bread-crumbs, two table-spoon- fuls of cream, and a couple of eggs. When eoldy:mix:.this, and the fish, &c., together. Make into: klésse with: a spoon, and, boil for'ten'‘minutes. Probable cost,'10d., exclusive of fish. (See Klésse.) eS _‘Hish Maigre, To dross,—Take boiling ane an just enough to cover the fish, and let it simmer steadily till the fish is done, When it is‘nicely- adding a small tea-spoonful of peppercorns, six or eight allspice, and two middle-sizéd onions, each stuck with two ¢loves. With the liquor, when strained, put as much flour andbutter as will make it of the consistency of milk ; flavour with wine,and any sauce—mushroom or an- chovy—and ‘season with salt, pepper; and. cayenne. "To each pint of sauce.put a glass. os wine, a small spoonful of ketchup, ‘a tea-spoon- ful of ‘anchovy ‘sauce, and:.a few grains of cayenne: This sauce, after it: has simmered a few minutes, should be‘strained over. the fish, which must be served on a deep dish. . Garnish with sippets of bread, fried. Time, from ten to twenty minutes: to simmer, :according to the size of the fish. pads a ' Fish, Marinade for.—Fry in: butter half a dozen shallots, three ‘middle-sized' onions, a couple of carrots, ‘a bunch of ‘parsley, 'a ‘bundle of sweet herbs, and a clove of garlic.’ Cut the ‘carrots, shallots, and onions: small; pick ‘and’ mince the herbs. “When they have simmered in the butter five or six minutes; pour’in ‘any. light wine or cider—about three pints—and add a déssert-spoonful of peppercorns, the same of allspice, and two cloves.’ When the mixture has | simmered for one-hour anda half, strain for us¢. Insipid fish boiled in this’ marinade will acquire a flavour of a very agreeable kind, and the bones of small fish are rendered soft and eatable ‘if. gently stewed. in it. Large fish ghould be cut into steaks; and if, after use, the marinade be carefully strained, it will serve several times. ‘|The expense, too, may be much, lessened by . using beer or vinegar, with the addition of a glass of soy, and the same of essence of anchovy and ketchup. (See.a/so Marinade for Fish.) : Fish, Panada for.—Put one ounce of butter, and rather less than two gills of water into a saucepan, boil them together, and add, by degrees, a quarter of a pound of flour ; stir until the mixture is smooth, but -do not let it burn. When off the fire, mix'with it the yolks of three well-beaten eggs.' When cold it is fit for use. It is employed in making, Forcemeat. Fish Paté.—Pick from the shell of a crab all that is good; pound it in a mortar, with a small quantity of bread-crumbs, and a. season- ing of white pepper, cayenne, salt, and nut- meg; add a very little gravy, which, thicken with butter rolled in flour. -Make it hot, and squeeze in a little lemon-juice. Have ready a wall of mashed potatoes round the inner mm of a flat' dish: let it be two and 4 half inches high. Smooth and ‘ornament it with leaves, flowers, or according to taste; this'can be done f with a tin-cutter, and if egged and browned in the oven will havea very pretty appearance. Fill the centre with’ the fricasseé, and’ brown with a salamander. Small patties may be made, and filled with this fricassee.' Time, one hour to prepare potatoes. Sufficient, one pound for three persons. es . Fish, Pickled.—Any boiled fish may be kept good for another.meal by simply mixing equal quantities of the water in.which. it was boiled and vinegar, together with, am, onion gliced, some fresh fennel, pepper, and.salt.. Put the fish into a deop dish, and throw the pickle FIS ( 212 ) FIS over it. Baste frequently, that it may be well moistened. It will keep good several days in cold weather. ‘Time, two or three days. Fish, Pickled (another way).—Make a pickle of boiling water and salt, strong enough to bear anegg. Plunge the fish to be pickled into it. Let the fish be well cleaned and trimmed, but the scales must not be removed, and there must be only just enough of the pickle to cover it. Be careful not to boil too much. Drain by placing it on a slanting board; and when cold pack it close, and fill the vessel with equal parts of the liquor the salmon or other fish was boiled in, and the best vinegar. Fill up again next day, and close the vessel. Fish Pie.—Fish pies are best made with cooked fish. Take turbot, salmon, brill, had- dock, trout, or any kind of fisk ; take off the skin and remove the bones. Cut the flesh in large scollops, cover the bottom of the dish with béchamel sauce, and on this place the fish in layers, seasoning each layer with pepper, salt, nutmeg, chopped mushrooms, shallot, parsley, and hard-boiled eggs; throw in a little more sauce, and fill up with the fish and seasoning. Cover with puff paste. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Fish Pie (another way).—Take flounders, clean and dry them well in a cloth, boil, and separate the fish from the bones. Boil the bones in a saucepan with a pint of the water in which the fish was boiled, a bit of parsley, lemon-peel, pepper, and salt. When reduced to the quantity required for gravy, make a crust and line a:pie-dish. Put some bits of butter in the bottom of the dish, then a layer of fish, strew chopped parsley, and sprinkle with flour, pepper, and salt. Proceed until the dish is full, pour in the gravy, and bake with a top crust. ‘Time, about three-quarters of an hour to bake. Fish, Pink Sauce for.—Soak for forty- eight hours in one quart of the best vinegar and half u pint of port wine, a quarter of an ounce of cochineal, half an ounce of cayenne pepper, and six cloves of garlic; add and mix one table-spoonful of walnut-ketchup, and a double quantity of anchovy liquor; strain, and put it into bottles for use. It should be stirred often during the forty-eight hours, and the bottles used should not hold more than half a pint each. Fish Pudding.—Pound the flesh of two raw haddocks, cleared from skin and bone, in a mortar, pass it through a sieve, mixing a very little good gravy with it. Pound also an onion, @ little parsley, a few bread-crumbs, and a quarter of a pound of veal suet; moisten with a couple of eggs, and season with pepper and salt. Beat these ingredients well into the pounded fish. When well mixed, boil the pudding in « mould, and send to table with a Tich brown sauce. Kel pudding, with the addi- tion of oysters, is excellent. It may be boiled in paste, and served with a sauce in the dish, or in a mould with sauce in a tureen. Time, one Aour to boil. Probable cost, 1s. each. Fish Pudding, Plain.—Line a pudding- vasin with ordinary pudding paste; cut a pound of cod, or any other fish liked, into pieces, season with salt, pepper, a very little chopped parsley, and onion, moisten with stock, cover with a crust, and boil in the usual way; add fish sauce to taste. Serve hot. Time, one hour to boil. Sufficient for two persons. Fish Ragott in Scallop Shells.— Dissolve a piece of butter in a stewpan, and put into it any uncooked fish, well cleared from skin and bone, and cut into small dice, but not mashed ; add salt and lemon-juice, and stew very gently till done; then have ready a sauce composed of the following ingredients :—Some good gravy, a glassful of white wine, a little cayenne pepper, grated lemon-peel, ginger, and nutmeg. Thicken the sauce with flour and butter, and stir till quite thick; then put in the fish, and stir in the yolks of three eggs and a little sardine butter. Put this ragoit into scallop-shells with a covering of bread-crumbs and Parmesan cheese. Pour a little oiled butter over and bake to a pale brown. Time, ten minutes to bake. Fish Réchauff6.—Take any fish, cooked, free from skin and bones, flake it, and to every pound add half a pint of cream, of Harvey sauce, mushroom ketchup, essence of anchovy, and mustard, one small spoonful of each. Thicken the sauce with butter rolled in flour, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Put the fish and the sauce into a stewpan, and when hot place it carefully on a dish ; cover with bread- crumbs, and baste with butter for a few minutes while it is before the fire. Brown with a sala- mander, or raise a wall of mashed potatoes round the dish, two and a half inches high, and place the ragoiit in the centre. Pike, cod, tur- bot, soles, and haddock do well for this dish. _Fish, Rissoles of.—To any quantity or kind of cold cooked fish, weighed after the bones and skin have been removed, add a third part of grated bread-crumbs, a finely-minced boiled onion, some cold melted butter, and the yolks of two eggs; season with pepper and salt. Make puff paste, roll it thin, and cut*it into squares of two inches. Place about a tea-spoon- ful of the mince on each square, and fold over with paste. Wet the edges of the paste, before closing them, that they may adhere, and fry in boiling fat, first egging and covering the rissoles with bread-crumbs. Serve dry. Garnish with fried parsley. Time, fry till lightly browned. probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the fish. Fish Salad.—This consists of cold fish of any kind, mixed with well dried salad, pickled gherkins, or any other green pickle. Oysters or shrimps may be added to the other fish, which should be separated neatly into flakes, and the whole should be moistened with a salad cream. Garnish with slices of lemon and some parsley. Fish Sandwiches.—Cut bread and butter as for other sandwiches, place thin scollops of any fish on the slices, and instead of mustard, use Tartar sauce. Put a layer of finely-sliced lettuce on the top of the sauce, and cover with bread and butter. Serve cut into squares. Thin slices of hard-boiled eggs may be added, but fish make good sandwiches alone if well seasoned. FIS ( 218) FIS Fish Sauce.—To a quart of the best vine- gar add an ounce and a half of cayenne pepper, two or three shallots, a few shreds of garlic, and two table-spoonfuls each of walnut ketchup andsoy. ‘lo be kept in a large bottle, and weil shaken every day. At the end of a fortnight divide the sauce, and keep it well sealed in small bottles. Use as required. It will be fit tor use in about three weeks. Probable cost, 1s. for this quantity. Fish, Sauce for Boiled.—Take some of the water in which the fish has been boiled, and simmer in it for a quarter of an hour an onion, an anchovy, and a table-spoonful of walnut ketchup; adda pint of good veal gravy, strain, and thicken with butter and flour. Two table-spoonfuls of the fish broth will be enough for this quantity. Probable cost, 4d. Fish Sauce, without Butter.—Boil down a table-spoonful of horse-radish, an onion, four cloves, and two blades of mace pounded, in half a pint of water and a quarter of a pint of good vinegar. When the onion is soft, mince it with a couple of anchovies, and stir it into the sauce, adding a tea-spoonful of salt, and balf the quantity of black pepper. Mix the beaten yolks of three eggs (which should be first strained) into the sauce. Do this gra- dually, and throw the sauce from the pan toa basin, and then toss it over the fire till it is thick enough to serve. Time to boil the sauce, half an hour; to thicken with eggs, five minutes. Fish Scallop.—Take half a pound of any cold fish ; weigh it when the bones and skin have been removed.. Put it into a stewpan, with walnut ketchup and made mustard, halfa tea-spoonful of each, and half a table-spoonful of anchovy sauce, mixed first with half a pint of cream and then with the fish. Heat all together, but it should not boil. Fill a dish or put into scallop shells; cover with bread- crumbs, and place butter in small lumps over the top. Brown in the oven, or use a sala- mander. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 1s., exclusive of the fish. Fish Soup.—Slicetwo middle-sized onions, fry them of a light brown in butter, and fry also three pounds of eels—they should not be skinned. When just browned (five minutes will do them), add three quarts of boiling water, and while boiling skim carefully. Throw in allspice and black pepper, two drachms, half an ounce of the leaves of lemon, thyme, and winter savoury mixed, and a good bunch of parsley (all green). When the soup has boiled slowly about two hours, during which time it should have been well skimmed, strain and thicken. Melt three ounces of butter, and stir into it as much flour as will absorb the butter. When quite dry, pour some of the soup to it and stir until smooth ; then add the remainder by degrees, and simmer altogether for a few minutes, when the soup should be strained into a clean saucepan over neatly-cut pieces of fish, such as soles, eels, plaice, flounder, skate, &c., all fried, and force- meat balls. Keep hot, and serve in about ten minutes after the soup has been poured, over the fish. Good fish soup may.be made with a skate, a flounder, and a couple of small eels cut: into pieces, and fried in butter with an onion sliced, then boiled with half a gallon of water till good, and flavoured with salt and pepper. This stock will keep several days in cold weather, ; Fish Soup. (another way).—Boil down the trimmings and bones of any fish intended for this soup; put them, with three pints of fish stock, into a saucepan, and add three middle- sized onions halved, two lemons sliced, and the rind of one grated, a bunch of parsley, and some chervil. When well stewed, strain through a tamis. Have ready fillets of fish, about six pounds of sole, carp, or perch, and when fried, put them into the soup. Season it with a tea- spoonful of salt and half the quantity of mace and cayenne mixed; and add a couple of glass- fuls of white wine. The soup should be good, clear, and free from fat. Simmer ten minutes, and serve with quenelles of fish. Time, one hour to stew trimmings. Sufficient for six persons. Fish Soup (economical)—Take care of the liquor in which fish has been boiled. Put the bones, fins, head, and trimmings of the dressed fish into three pints of the liquor, and stew gently till reduced to one quart. Strain the stock and leave it till cold. When the soup is wanted put the liquor into the stewpan with an onion, or better still, a leek, a little salt and cayenne, and two large potatoes. Boil till these ure soft, then rub the soup through a hair sieve. Make it hot again, and add a few drops of essence of anchovy. Put it into the soup- tureen, and mix a cupful of boiling milk with it. Have ready a table-spoonful of finely- chopped parsley. Sprinkle this upon the soup at the last moment, and serve. Fish Soup Quenelles.—Pick out the meat from a lobster, and pound it, together with three ounces of butter. Season with salt and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of mace and cayenne pepper mixed together; blend the meat to a paste with the yolk of a raw egg, and add while mixing the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs and two table-spoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs. Mould in a téa-spoon and poach the quenelles for two or three minutes, or fry in butter a light brown before they are put in the soup. When used as an entrée, or breakfast dish, serve with a good gravy, after being boiled or fried in butter. Time, ten minutes to fry for entrée. Fish Soup, White.—Clean and trim any kind of fish—tfresh or salt water. Boil the trim- mings with a head of celery, a small quantity of parsley, two onions, 4 pay-leaf, and five or six cloves. Use water, and cover the saucepan closely. When the contents have. boiled one hour, add as much more water as will be required to make the soup. Strain it, and stir in a cup of cream. Season with salt and white pepper. Lay in the tureen some eggs, nicely fried in butter; allow one for each person. Pour the soup over, and serve with toasted bread. Sufficient, half a pint for each person. Fish Soup, with Potatoes.— Have ready the fish broth, made as directed for fish “ FIS (214) FLA Soup. When strained, grate a number of : potatoes—four pounds of good’ mealy ones will ‘thicken two quarts of broth—add these with’ some well-beaten eggs and a large cup of cream. Flavour: with salt and nutmeg. If preferred, milk may be substituted for some of the broth, and the cream may be omitted. Serve With klésse or toastéd bread. Time,’ half an hour. ‘Sufficient for eight persons. - Fish Stock.—Cleanse ‘well’ from the slime, but do not skin, two pounds of together. Roll the paste out till it is a quarter of an inch thick, stamp it out in‘small round cakes, place these on well-buttered tins, and bake in a slow oven. Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for six or eight cakes. : : Heart, Bullock’s.—Wash the heart in several waters, clean the blood carefully from the pipes, and put it to soak in vinegar and water for two hours or more. Drain it and fill it either with hare forcemeat or sage-and-onion stuffing. Fasten it securely, tie it in a cloth, put it into a pan of boiling water, and let it simmer gently for two hours. Take off the cloth, and roast the heart while hot, basting it plenti- fully, with good dripping for two hours longer. Serve with good brown gravy and currant jelly, if veal forcemeat has been used, and apple jelly if the heart has been stuffed with sage and onions. The Blowing my be omitted, and the heart simply roaste hours, but the flesh will not then be so tender. Probable cost of heart, 28. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. 3 : Heart, Bullock’s, Hashed.— Take the remains of a bullock’s heart, and cut it into neat slices. Take also a cupful of gravy, that which was served with the heart will answer excellently ; mix with it a quarter of a pint of port, claret, or ale, and‘ thicken it with a little flour, mixed smoothly in a small quantity of water, Let, it boil for a few minutes, then for three. or four. dissolve a table-spoonful of red currant jelly in it, put in the slices‘of heart, and; when these are‘ heated through, serve immediately, with toasted sippets to garnish'‘the dish. The gravy must: not boil after the ‘slices of heart are added. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat and wine, 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Heart, Bullock’s, Stewed.—Prepare a heart as in the last recipe. Soak it in vinegar and water, fill it with hare forcemeat, and put it in a saucepan, the broad end uppermost, and with it a sliced turnip and carrot, an onion stuck with four cloves, ‘half'a tea-spoonful of ‘bruised celery-seed, tied in muslin, two tea-- spoonfuls of salt," one tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and a quarter ofatea-spoonful of cayenne. Pour over the heart a pint of good stock, or, fail-’ ing this, water, and half a pint of beer. Cover the pan closely, and when the liquid has orice” boiled, draw it a little to the side, and simmer > gently for five hours.’ Send the ‘gravy in which it was stewed to table with it. Pro- ‘bable cost of heart, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. - : Heart, Calf’s.—Wash -the heart very. clean, soak it in vinegar and water, fill it. with a forcemeat made.of four ounces of crumb.of sbread, two ounces of ‘butter, two table-spoon- ‘fuls of chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful of .| finely-minced lemon-rind, and a little salt and ‘cayenne. - Fasten the heart securely and. roast before a clear fire for from an hour and a half to two hours. Serve it with good melted butter mixed with a table-spoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar. A calf’s heart is: improved by. par- tially boiling it before it is roasted.. It may be baked, if more convenient, in a good oven, but _in either case should be libérally basted. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. ie : Heart, Calf’s (another way).—Wash and soak the heart, cut it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick,.and fry these in a little hot dripping or butter. About five minutes before they are done put a slice of bacon into the pan for each slice of heart,and when they are suffi- ciently cooked serve on a ‘hot dish,.and. covér each piece of heart .with a ‘slice of. bacon. Boil two or three table-spoonfuls of thin flour and water in the pan in which the meat was fried. Season it with pepper and, salt, add one table-spoonful of red. currant jelly, and serve as hot as‘possible:’. Time, fifteen minutes to fry'the slices of heart: Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons, © 4s ° Heart, Sheep’s, Baked.—Wash two or three sheep’s hearts in lukewarm water, fill them with veal forcemeat,' and skewer them securely.’ Fasten ‘a rasher of. fat. bacon round each, place them in a deep dish; .and with them a little good stock; and an’ onion’ stuck with two cloves.’ Bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Draw off the gravy. Thicken with a little flour and butter, and flavour it with pepper and salt and a’ table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut ketchup: . Put the hearts - on a hot dish, pour the: gravy over them, and send red currant jelly with them to table. HEA (311 ) HER Probable cost, 8d. each. Swufiicient, two for four persons. : Hearts, Sheep’s, with Batter Pud- ding.—.Prepare two hearts as in the last recipe. Bake them for one hour; then drain them from the gravy, put them into a deep, well-buttered pie-dish, and pour round them a batter made thus:—Mix four heaped table- . spoonfuls of fine flour smoothly with a quarter of a pint of milk and water. Add the beaten yolks of two eggs, pinch of salt, and, when the flour is quite smooth and free from lumps, another quarter of a pint of milk. Let this be made, if possible, an hour before the batter is wanted. Just before putting it in the oven stir in the whites of the eggs well whisked. Bake until the pudding is’ done enough. Thicken and flavour the gravy in which the meat was stewed, and send it to table in a tureen. Time, two hours. Probable cost, about 1s. 10d. It will be sufficient for four or five persons. ; Hebe’s Cup (see Heidelburg Punch). Hedgehog, Apple (see Apple Hedgehog). Hedgehog Pudding.—Shred half a pound of beef suet very finely. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, half a pound of currants, half a pound of raisins, half a pound of sugar, one ounce each of candied lemon, orange, and citron, half a nutmeg grated, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, a small pinch of salt, three or four sweet almonds, blanched and sliced, four eggs, and as much ale as will make the pudding. into a stiff paste. Mix the dry ingredients first ; afterwards add the. eggs and ale. Tie the pudding in a cloth, plunge it into*boiling water, and keep it boiling for five hours. Have ready three ounces of blanched almonds. Stick them into the pudding before sending it to’ table, and serve with brandy sauce. Sufii- cient for six or eight persons. Probable cost, Is. 10d. . Heidelberg Punch, or Hebe’s Cup. —Take a fresh frame-grown cucumber. Cut. an inch and a half of it into thin slices, and, put them into a punch-bowl with the thin rind of a sound lemon and three table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar. Work them well together for four or five minutes with the back of a wooden spoon; then pour over them three table-s oonfuls of brandy, six of sherry, a bottle of soda-water, and a bottle of claret. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and let them remain for one hour. Just before serving add another bottle of soda- water. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the. spirits and wine. Sufficient for a three-pint. bowl. Henriette Pudding, or Helena. Pudding.— Pour three-quarters of a pint of boiling milk over two ounces of finely- grated bread-crumbs. Soak for half an hour, then beat with a fork, add one table-spoonful of sugar, a piece of butter the size of a large egg, two ounces of finely-chopped candied lemon, and the yolks of three well-beaten eggs. Spread a little apricot or currant jam at the bottom. of a pie-dish; at the last moment add the whites.of two of the eggs well whisked, pour in the mixture, and bake in a gentle oven for half.an hour... Sufficient for three or four persons. Probable cost, 1s. : , _ Herb Kloésse, or Forcemeat Balls.— Prepare the herbs’ as in the following recipe, using double the quantity of spinach to that of any other herb. Mince them finely.. Soak two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs in a little milk. Squeeze it dry, and’ mix it with six ounces of grated potatoes which have been boiled some hours before. Adda tdble-spoonful of flour,.three well-beaten eggs, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, a little pepper and salt, and the minced herbs. Stir all well together with a fork.’ Handle the forcemeat as lightly as possible, and when shaping it dip the hands in | cold. water, and wet the spoon with which it is taken up. Form it into balls the size of a large walnut, drop them into boiling water, and let: them boil ten minutes. Melt an ounce of butter in a stewpan, and stir a table-spoonful of .finely-grated fried crumbs in it. Drain the ' klésse, sprinkle the bread-crumbs over them, and serve immediately.. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for four or five’ persons. ‘Herb Pudding or Pie.—Take two handfuls of parsley-leayes, one of spinach, one of mustard and cress, one of white beet-leaves, ‘one of finely-sliced lettuce-hearts, three or four leaves of borage, and a dozen chives. Wash these ‘herbs well, and boil them for three or four minutes. Drain the water from them, chop them small, season with salt and pepper, and ‘spread them in a buttered dish. Make a batter ‘with five table-spoonfuls of flour and a pinch of salt,.:mixed smoothly with two eggs and as much milk as will bring it to.the. consistence ‘of thick cream. Pour this over the herbs, stir all well together, and bake in a moderate oven. If liked, the edges of the dish can be lined with good pastry. Sufficient for five or six persons. ‘Probable cost, 8d. F “5 Herb Sauce.—Take two parts of parsley to one of chervil and chives, chop them finely, and pour over as much vinegar as will rather more than cover them. Let them infuse at least an hour, to draw out the flavour of the herbs. This is the usual accompaniment on the Continent to boiled calf’s head. A small quantity of other herbs, suth as thyme,’ marjoram, basil, or sage, may be used, if the flavour is liked, but they are not generally in-- ‘cluded -in herb sauce properly so called. Pro- bable cost, 6d. per half-pint. Sufficient for four or five persons. \ F Herb Sauce (another way).—Pick and wash the herbs. Take two bunches of parsley to one of fennel and one of mint, boil them for three or four minutes, drain and mince them finely, and stir them into half a pint of boiling melted butter. Let the sauce boil up, then pour iteinto a tureen, add a little salt, and a table- spoonful of lemon-juice, and serve immediately. Probable cost, 4d. 5 Sufficient for two or three persons. : ; ; Herb Sauce (for flavouring). — Slice. a stick of horseradish very finely, and with it two shallots, and a clove of garlic. Strip the leaves from a sprig of thyme, ‘basil, marjoram, : . HER ( 312 ) HER winter savoury, and parsley, and put all into a saucepan. Pour over them four table-spoonfuls of vinegar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint of cold water. Add a dozen peppercorns, a quarter of a salt-spoonful of cayenne, a drachm of bruised celery-seed, a leaf of tarragon, a des- sert-spoonful of salt. Bring the sauce to a boil, colour rather darkly with burnt sugar, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes, Strain through a jelly-bag, and, when cold, put it into bottles, and cork securely until wanted for use. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for one pint and a quarter. Herb Soup.—Take a handful each of chervil, parsley, spinach, and sorrel, and half a dozen young cabbage lettuces. Wash, drain, and shred them finely, and put them into a stewpan, with four ounces of butter, two or three sliced carrots, and a little pepper and salt. Let them steam for half an hour, shaking the pan occasionally to prevent burning. Pour in three quarts of clear soup, and simmer for twenty minutes. Add a little grated nutmeg. Strain the soup, beat the yolks of three eggs with half a pint of milk, and stir it in gently just before serving. This soup may be varied by the addition of a quart of green peas, a cucumber cut into slices and fried in butter, or afew onions. When peas are put in, however, the sorrel should be omitted. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Herbs and Spices, Aromatic Sea- soning of (see Aromatic Seasoning of Herbs and Spices). Herbs, Aromatic Powdered, for Seasoning.—Dry and pick away the stalks from three ounces of thyme, three ounces of marjoram, three ounces of basil, one ounce of bay-leaves, and two ounces of winter savoury ; put them into a mortar, and with them two cloves of garlic finely minced, half an ounce of grated lemon-peel, half an ounce of cayenne pepper, one ounce of nutmeg, grated, one ounce of powdered mace, two ounces of peppercorns, and two ounces of cloves. Pound all thoroughly in a mortar, pass the powder through a wire sieve, and put it into bottles, which must be securely corked until wanted. Time, one hour to prepare. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. for this quan- tity. Half a tea-spoonful is enough for one pint of sauce. Herbs, Bunch of Sweet.—A bunch of sweet herbs, which is often mentioned in recipes for soups, stews, &c., consists of two sprigs of parsley, one of orange or lemon thyme, and one bay-leaf, or two sprigs of parsley, one of sweet marjoram, one of winter savoury, and one of lemon-thyme. These herbs should befastened securely together with thread ; they can then be easily removed before the dish is served. Herbs, Chopping.—Pick off the leaves, wash and them in a Dutch oven as quickly as possible without burning them. Hold the leaves firmly in the left hand, and cut them through very finely with a sharp knife. Turn the long shreds round, and cut them finely the other way; then finish by chopping with both hands with the knife. Herbs, Drying and Storing for Winter use.—Gather the herbs on a dry day. They are at their greatest perfection just before they begin to flower. Cleanse them immediately, cut off the roots, divide them into small bunches, and dry them in a Dutch oven before the fire, or lay them on dishes in a moderate oven. If this is not convenient, they may be divided into bunches, and laid on sheets of paper in the sun, but the more quickly they a. dried the better will be their flavour. Care must be taken that they do not burn. When dry, it is usual to tie the herbs in paper bags, and keep them hanging in a dry place until wanted, but it is much the better plan to pick off the leaves, pound them in a mortar, pass them through a sieve, and the powder into bottles, which must be kept closely corked. The different herbs should be gathered and dried in the following months :— Bast. The middle of August. Burner. June, July, and August. Cuervit. May, June, and July. Exper Frower. May, June, and July. Fernnev. May, June, and July. Kworrep Margoram. July. Mint. The latter end of June and July. Parstzy. May, June, and July. Sacz. August, and September. Savoury, Summer. The latter end of July and August. Savoury, Winter. End of July and August. Tarragon. June, July, and August. Tuyme. End of July and August. Tuyme, Lemon. End of July and August. Tuyme, Orance. June and July. Herbs, Essence of, for Seasoning.— Squeeze the juice from four fresh lemons, strain, it, and put it into an earthenware jar, and with it a bottle of white wine, and half a pint of vinegar. Add a drachm each of powdered cloves, mace, basil, thyme, and nutmeg, also an ounce of dried parsley, half a pound of salt, and two ounces of pepper. Put the pan in the oven, and bring the contents to the point of boiling, then put on the cover, and keep them simmering gently for four hours. Strain the liquid, filter it through Dlotting-paper, and keep it in closely stoppered bottles till wanted for use. Probable cost, 1s., exclusive of the wine. Three drops of the essence are about enough for a pint. Taste, and add more if required. Herbs, Fried.—Pick, wash, drain, and finely mince two handfuls of spinach, one of parsley, and four or five young onions. Put them into a stewpan, with a pinch of salt, one ounce of butter, and one table-spoonful of broth. Put on the lid and stew them gently, shaking the pan frequently, and be careful they do not burn. Fried herbs are often served as an ac- companiment to calf’s liver. Time, ten or fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for three or four persons. : Herbs, Lamb Chops with (see Lamb Chops with Herbs). Herbs, Powder of.—Weigh the leaves of the dried herbs (see Herbs, Drying and Storing for Winter use), after they are separated from the stalks. Take two ounces of lemon.thyme, HER ( 818 ) HER two of sweet marjoram, two of winter savoury, two of basil, four of dried parsley, and one ounce of finely-minced lemon-rind. Pound these thoroughly in a mortar, sift the powder through a wire sieve, and keep it in bottles closely stoppered for use. Herbs, Vinegar of.—The flavour of herbs may be extracted by being soaked in vinegar, and in this form may be used for soups and sauces, when fresh herbs cannot be obtained. Gather the herbs on a dry day, and at the proper season. Pick the leaves from the stalks, and fill a wide-mouthed bottle with them. The leaves may be shaken together, but must not be pressed down. Pour the best pickling vinegar over them, let them infuse for a month, then strain and bottle for use. Probable cost, 10d. per pint. Herbs, Wines of.—Herbs may be infused in wine instead of vinegar, and when this is done, the essence will be found useful for those dishes in which the acidity imparted by vinegar is not required. Proceed as with vinegar (see the preceding recipe), using sherry, claret, or any light wine to fill the bottle. As wine is stronger than vinegar, a fortnight will be found sufficient to extract the flavour. Time, about two weeks to infuse. Her Majesty’s Pudding. — Flavour half a pint of cream or new milk with half an ounce of pounded almonds, or if preferred, a little lemon or ratafia flavouring. Simmer gently, and when Inkewarm, pour the milk gradually over two well-beaten eggs. Stir it over the fire for a minute or two, until it begins to thicken, then take it off and sweeten it, and when quite cool pour it intoa buttered mould which has been lined with a small spongecake, previously sliced and soaked in sherry. Place a cover on the mould and steam the pudding. When done enough, let it stand a minute or two before turning it out, and ornament with crystallised fruit of different colours. Time, three-quarters of an hour to steam. Probable cost, 8d.,if made with milk. Sufficient for two persons. Herodotus Pudding, or Hilton Pudding.—Shred a quarter of a pound of suet very finely, mix with it five ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and five ounces of good figs minced as small as possible. Add a pinch. of salt, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and two eggs well beaten. Beat the mix- ture with a fork, pour it into a buttered mould, tie it in « cloth, and boil it for three hours. Send brandied sauce to table in a tureen. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Herrings.—This delicate and delicious fish, which visits the British Islands in shoals, are at their best in July and August. They may be cooked in many ways, for all of which recipes will be given. There is a difference of opinion us to the time when the herring is in season. ‘The fact is there are varieties of this fish, and one kind or another is to be had at any time excepting the early spring. Herrings, Dutch, Fried.—Wash the herrings, and soak them in milk for a couple of hours. Drain and dry them; cut off the fins, dip them in flour, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them in hot fat. Send potatoes in any form to table with them. Time, seven or eight minutes tofry. Probable cost, 1d. or 1}d. each. Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. Herrings, Fresh, Baked.—Scale and clean the herrings carefully, without washing them. Cut off the heads, and take out the backbone. Sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace over them, both inside and out, lay them in a deep baking-dish, and arrange the roes at the top. Cover them with vinegar and water in equal proportions, and put three or four bay-leaves or cloves into the liquid. Bake for an hour. They are much better eaten cold than hot. When the backbone is removed they may be neatly rolled before baking. Pro- bable cost, 1d. or 14d. each. Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. Herrings, Fresh, Boiled.—Few fish are more delicious than fresh herrings boiled. Wash, scale, and gut them, sprinkle a little salt over them, and dip them once quickly in vinegar; skewer them securely with their tails in their mouths, put them into boiling water, and simmer very gently until done enough, when they must. be taken out immediately. Drain the water from them, and arrange them neatly on a dish; garnish with parsley or scraped horseradish, and send shrimp, anchovy, or parsley sauce to table in a tureen. Time, about twelve minutes to simmer. Probable cost, 1d. or 14d. each, Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. Herrings, Fresh, Broiled. — Fresh herrings are better for broiling when they have been salted for a night, as this both renders them firmer and improves their flavour. Scale and gut the fish without opening them, score them to the bone in two or three places, draw them through oil on a dish, and broil them over a clear fire. Lift them gently now and then, to prevent their sticking to the bars, and when one side is done enongh, turn the fish gently to the other. Serve imme- diately. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over the herrings before sending them to table. The roes must be fried and served with them. Time, about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 1d. or 13d. each. Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. Herrings, Fresh, Broiled (in the Scotch style).—Scale, gut, and wash the herrings, cut off the heads, tails, and fins, flatten them with great care, remove the backbone, and any little bones that can be taken out with it. Sprinkle the inside of each fish with a little pepper and salt; then place them together in pairs, and press the two inner surfaces as close as possible. Dip them in oatmeal, lay them on the gridiron over a clear fire, and when the undermost fish is broiled, turn them quickly and carefully, without separating them. Serve as hot as possible. A bloater and a fresh herring may be broiled together in this way, but when this is done, the bloater should be well rubbed inside with butter before being laid on the fresh fish, and the oatmeal omitted for it. Time, about fifteen minutes to broil- HER ( 314 ) HER Sufficient for one person. Probable cost, 1d. or 1dd. each. ' Herrings, Fresh, Choosing.—Choose fresh herrings which are plump in shape, bright and silvery in look, and with their scales un- injured. When they are bloodshot about the eyes, they have been dead some time. When many of the scales have come off, they have been crushed together in large heaps,-either in the fishing-boats or in baskets. A herring dies almost instantly it is taken out of the water. Comparatively few people have seen a live herring. Herrings, Fresh, Fried.—Clean and scale four fresh herrings., Cut off the fins, and either score them lightly in three or four places, or open themalong thé under side, and take out the bone. Season them with a little salt and pepper; flour, and afterwards brush them over with beaten egg, and sprinkle bread-crumbs over them. Fry them in a very little hot fat, and drain them well before serving. The roes should be taken out, egged and crumbed sepa- rately, fried, and sent to table with the fish. Stir a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, and half a tea-spoonful of vinegar into half a pint of melted butter, and send this sauce to table with the herrings in a tureen. Time, three minutes each side.. Probable cost of herrings, 4d. Sufficient for two persons. Herrings, Fresh, Fried (another way). —Take half a dozen herrings, scrape off the scales, cut off the heads and: fins, cut them open down the back, and wipe the fish with a soft cloth, but do not wash them. Slice two or three onions, and fry them for two or three minutes in hot.fat. Dip the herrings in butter, and fry them with the onions, until done enough. Send to table with the onions in the dish with them, and parsley and butter in a tureen. Time, six or seven minutes. Probable cost, 1d. or 13d, each, Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. Herrings, Marinaded (a German re. | cipe).—Put some white salted herrings into cold milk, to soak for'a couple of hours. Split them open, take out the bones, cut each half- herring into three pieces, and divide the roes lengthwise. Put all in layers into a deep jar, and between: each layer place a sprinkling of finely-minced shallot, pounded cloves, and white pepper, with here and there-a, pieee of hay-leaf and aslice of fresh lemon with half the rind taken off. Place the roe with the herring, and the seasoning over the top layer, and cover the whole well with vinegar. Pour three or four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil.over the vinegar, and leave it until required. The pieces of herring should be.drained when wanted, and served either with cheese or as a relish for salads, breakfast, luncheon, &c. They may be used in a couple of days, but will keep good for some time. Probable cost, about 1s, per dozen. Herrings, Mock Anchovy Sand- wiches of (see Herrings, Red, Mock Anchovy Toast of). 4 Herrings, Pickled—Take half a pound of salt, half a pound of bay salt, an ounce of : herrings. sugar, and an ounce of-saltpetre. Pound all well together until reduced to a fine powder. Procure the herrings as fresh as possible, cut off the heads and tails, open them, and lay them for one hour in briné strong enough to float an egg. Drain, dry the fish with a soft cloth, and put them in layers into a deep jar, with a little of the powder between each layer, and a little both at the top and bottom of the jar. When the jar is full, press it down and cover it closely. ‘The fish will be ready in three months. Probable cost, 1s. per dozen. The above quantity of salt is enough for two dozen herrings. Herrings, Pickled (in the French style). —Seale and clean a dozen perfectly fresh her- rings, without washing them. Cut off their heads, and remove the entrails, leaving the milts and roes in their place. Put the fish into an earthen jar, strew salt over them, and let them lie for twenty-four hours, turning them over at the end of twelve hours. Drain them, and place them in an enamelled sancepan, with a dozen peppercorns, a bay-leaf, six cloves, and a large sliced onion. Pour over them as much cold vinegar and water as will cover them. Place them on a brisk fire, bring them quickly to a _ boil, and let them boil just two minutes. Take . them from the fire, and let them get: nearly cold in the saucepan before removing them to the jar in which they are to be kept. Lift them.out carefully, pour the liquid over them, and keep in a cool place. They will remain good: for some time. Probable cost, 1s, per dozen. Herrings, Pickled, To Dress.—Cut the heads and tails from a couple of pickled Soak them in lukewarm water for three or four hours, then dry, and broil them over a clear fire. Brush a little salad-oil over them just before serving, and serve with sliced onion or chopped: parsley and capers. Time, five minutes to broil: ’ Probable cost, 14d. each. Herrings, Pie of.—Choose some herrings with soft roes; scale and clean, them. yell, cut off their heads, fins, and tails, split them open, take out the bones, and season the inner surface of the fish with a little salt and pepper. Line the edge of a buttered pie-dish with 4 good crust...Spread over the bottom of the dish a layer half an inch thick of equal parts of apples and onions,: finely minced. Place the herrings. on this, and cover them with another layer. Sprinkle the surface with grated nutmeg and finely-shred lemon- vind. Place two or three small pieces of butter here and there on the top, pour a little water in, cover the pie with a crust, and bake in a good oven. Herrings, Potted.— Empty the _ fish, clean without washing them, cutoff the heads and tails, remove the backbone, and strew over them a little salt and powdered mace. Let them remain three or four hours, then wipe off the seasoning and put the fish into a well-buttered pan; strew ‘pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg over them, place small lumps of butter here and theré upon them, and bake in a moderate oven. When they are cooked enough, drain the liquid from them, pour HER ( 315 ) HER sufficient clarified butter over them to coverthem completely, and keep in a cool place. Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost of herrings, 9d. per dozen, Sufficient, half a dozen. for three persons. Herrings, Red, Broiled.— Soak a couple of red herrings in a little warm water. This is unnecessary for fresh Yarmouth Bloaters. Dry them well with a cloth, make four or five incisions crosswise on the back, dredge a little flour over them, and put them on a gridiron about six inches above a clear fire, or toast them before the fire. This fish may be opened at the back and rubbed inside with a little cold butter, if this is liked. Time, five minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for two persons. _ Herrings, Red, Broiled (another way). —Cut off the heads and tails; open the fish, and pour over them a little hot beer. "When it is cold, wipe them dry with a soft cloth, and toast them before the fire until'they are hot through. Time, half an hour to soak. Pro- bable cost, 14d. each. Sufficient, one for each person. : ‘ Herrings, Red, Broiled (another way).—Take off the heads and tails, split the herrings open, and take out the backbones.. Beat an egg, stir into it a tea-spoonful of clari- fied ‘butter. Dip the fish into this, and sprinkle over them, rather thickly, finely-grated bread- crumbs, seasoned with a little pepper and pow- dered herbs. Broil them on a gridiron about six inches above a clear fire, and serve them on hot toast. Time, five minutes to. broil. Probable cost, 1d. each. Sufficient, one for each person. —Soak pickled herrings in water until salt is almost extracted. Push a stick through the eyes, and hang the fish in the sun or wind to dry. When wanted for use, broil or boil them like fresh herrings. Time, two days'to soak. Probable cost, 1d.or 14d. each. Sufficient, half a dozen for two or three persons. : Herrings, Red, Choosing.—Choose a fish which is plump, but not too of roe. Large-roed fish are sure to be oily, and in all probability are not satisfactorily salted. The body should be firm, the flesh red, the roe well set, and the smell sweet. If too salt, the fish - should be soaked in warm water a few hours before being cooked. It is well, however, to pull a few of the fins out of the back, and taste them, in order to ascertain whether it is too highly salted or not. ; Herrings, Red, Mock Anchovy Toast of.—Cut the head and tail from a red herring, and let it soak in boiling water for five or ten minutes. Drain it, peel off the skin, open it, and take out as many of the bones as possible. Cut one half into slices about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and the other half into small squares.’ Divide a round of hot buttered: toast into quarters, and place’a square of. herring- flesh on each quarter, and round-it one of the narrow slices. This will give mock anchovy toast. Place the pieces of herring between Herrings, Red, Buffed (a Bookeh. dist). : herrings, 1s. per dozen.. bread and. butter, instead of upon toast, and you will have mock anchovy sandwiches. It will take about.ten minutes to.soak the herring. Probable cost, 14d. each. Sufficient for one person. Herrings, Salted at Home.—Procure the herrings as fresh as possible. Scale, gut, and clean, but do not wash them. Leave the roes in thefish. Makea brine strong enough to float an egg. Put’ the herrings in this, and let them lie fourteen or sixteen hours. Drain them well, and put them into jars, with a thick layer of salt under them, and salt between each row of herrings. Cover tightly, to keep them free from air. When wanted for use, soak the fish in a little milk, and boil or broil them in the usual way. i Herrings, Salted, with Potatoes.— Take two or three salted herrings, which have been washed and dried, and put them into a quart stone jar, nearly. filled with sliced raw potatoes. Pour a little water over, and bake in a moderate oven until the potatoes are done. Time, about half anhour.. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. .. Herrings, Sauce for.—Herrings are generally served without sauce. When fresh ones are cooked a little may be required, and then -either parsley and butter, anchovy, or caper sauce may be sent to table with the fish ; or the following sauce:—Stir a table-spoonful of mixed mustard into a pint of melted butter. A table-spoonful of finely-chopped mixed pickles may'be substituted for the mustard. Boil for five minutes, add a tea-spoonful of vinegar, and serve. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen. persons. Herrings, Sauce of, for Fish (2 German recipe).—Put an ounce ,of butter into.a stew- - pan with two finely-minced shallots.. Let them remain over,a.gentle fire until tender, then thicken with a table-spoonful of flour, and, when smooth, add half a pint of fish stock or water, a tea-spoonful of vinegar, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and two bay-leaves. Simmer gently for ten minutes. Strain the sauce,.and mix with it the flesh of a salted and soaked herring, finely minced, and an ounce of butter. Boil once more. Just before serving, and when the sauce is slightly cooled, mix in the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. ‘Time, half‘an hour. Pro- bable cost,’ 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. , , Herrings, Smoked.—Clean and open ‘the herrings, and lay. them in salt and saltpetre for twenty-four hours. Drain and wipe them dry, and hang them in a'row by means of a stick pushed, through their eyes. Fill an old cask, open at both ends, with sawdust, put a red-hot iron in the middle of it, and place the herrings over the cask, which must be covered to keep in.the smoke.. Keep the heat as equal as possible. In about twenty-four hours the herrings will be ready. Probable cost of Herrings, Smoked, To Pre pare.— . Cut off the head and tail froma smoked herring, and. remove the bones. ‘Cut the fish into slices about half an inch in thickness, and let them HER ( 316 ) HOG soak in salad-oil for five or six hours. Drain them, put them into a dish, pour fresh oil over them, and serve. Probable cost, 14d. each. Sufficient, one or two for each person. Herrings, Soft Roes of, Baked.— Take the soft roes out of six or eight newly- boiled fresh herrings, sprinkle them over with a little pepper and salt, grated bread-crumbs, and finely-minced parsley. Put them into a dish, place little lumps of butter here and there over them, and bake in a hot oven. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over them before serving, and send to table as hot as possible. A little parsley and butter may be sent to table with them. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Hessian Soup.—Take half an ox’s head, clean and rub it well with salt, and let it soak in lukewarm water for four or five hours. Put it into a large stewpan with six quarts of water, and let it simmer until tender, then take it out; when the broth is cool, remove the fat, return the broth to the saucepan, and put with it a pint of soaked split peas, six carrots, six onions, three turnips, a tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, tied in muslin, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a blade of mace. Simmer again without the ox’s head until the vegetables are tender. Press them through a colander and afterwards through asieve. Put the pulp into the soup, add salt and Jamaica pepper to taste, and a lump of sugar. Let it boil uponce more andserve. It should be as thick as ordinary pea-soup. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 10d. per quart. Sufficient for twelve or fourteen persons. Hessian Soup and Ragotit.—Prepare the soup as in the last recipe. Cut the nicest -parts of the ox head into small neat pieces, and put them into a stewpan with a pint of the soup. Add three dessert-spoonfuls of ketchup, a mus- tard-spoonfu] of mixed mustard, and a glass of port or claret. Let all boil together for three or four minutes, and serve as hot as possible, with toasted sippets round the dish. Time, half an hour, exclusive of the time required for making the soup. Sufficient for five or six persons. Hessian Stew.—Take the root of an ox- tongue, cleanse it thoroughly, rub it well with salt, and pour over it as much boiling water as will cover it. When cool, drain and cut it into thick slices. Dredge a little flour over these, and fry them, until lightly browned, in a little hot fat, and fry with them four sliced onions. Pour half a pint of beer over the meat, and, when it boils, put allinto a stewpan. Add three quarts of water, six carrots, three turnips, three onions, and a tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, tied in muslin. Simmer gently for four hours. Strain the soup, the greater part of which should be served in the tureen with the vegetables, pulped and boiled up once more, and the addition of pepper, salt, and seasoning. The meat should be warmed ina pint of the gravy, according to the directions given for Hessian Ragoit (see Hessian Soup and Ragotit). Probable, cost, 3s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. ‘ Hide-and-seek Pudding (to be eaten cold).—Make a rich batter with two table- spoonfuls of cream, mixed with three well- beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful of sugar. Melt a little butter in a small omelet-pan, pour in the mixture, and fry it like an ordinury pan- cake, but it must be four times the thickness. Turn it on a dish, and, when cold, cover it with rich jam, and garnish with candied fruit cut into slices, and a few dark green leaves. Time, a few minutes to fry the omelet. Sufficient for one person. Probable cost, 7d. Hillsboro’ Pudding.—Shred six ounces of suet very finely. Mix with it three ounces of flour, three ounces of finely- grated bread-crumbs, a pinch of salt, the rind of a fresh lemon cut into long narrow strips, and one ounce of candied lemon, also sliced. Melt six ounces of good treacle until it will run. Stir this into the pudding, and add the juice of the lemon, three well-beaten. eggs, and a quarter of a pint of new milk. Fill a buttered basin with the mixture, tie the mould in a floured cloth, and plunge it into a saucepan of boiling water. Let it boil con- tinuously for four hours. Turn it out of the mould before serving, and send brandied sauce to table with it. Probable cost, 10d. Suffi- cient for six or eight persons. Hilton Pudding (sce Herodotus Pudding). Hip Sauce, for Puddings, &c. (a German recipe).—Take the seeds from half a pint of ripe hips. Boil them in a little water, until they are sufficiently tender to press through a coarse sieve. Mix a wine-glassful of light wine and a table-spoonful of moist sugar with the pulp, boil up once more, and serve. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain, for hips are seldom to be bought. Sufficient for three or four persons. Hog’s Cheeks, To Cure.—Take out the snout, split open the head, and remove the brains. Cleanse and trim the head, and strew salt over it. Let it lie for two days, then put it into a brine made by boiling one pint of bay salt and one quart of common salt, half an ounce of saltpetre, and half a pound of sugar, in three quarts of water until dissolved. Cover the cheeks with the brine, and let them lie in the pickle for a fortnight, turning them every other day. Drain, and let them hang in smoke for a week. Sufficient for one head. Probable cost, 3s. Hog’s Ears, Hot.—Parboil two pairs of pigs’ ears. Raise the skin of the upper side, and fill them with a forcemeat made by mincing and mixing thoroughly a quarter of a pound of suet, six ounces of bread-crumbs, a pounded an- chovy, two tea-spoonfulsof chopped parsley, one table-spoonful of sage, and alittle pepper and salt. Bind these ingredients together with the yolks of two eggs. When stuffed, skewer the ears to prevent the forcemeat escaping, and fry them in a little hot butter until brightly browned, then drain them and put them into a stewpan, with half a pint of good gravy, one table-spoontul of mixed mustard, one ounce of butter rolled in flour, one onion, and a little pepper and salt. Cover the stewpan closely, and simmer ‘gently HOG (317 ) HON for half an hour, shaking the pan frequently, to keep the contents from sticking. A few minutes before the meat is done enough, add a glass of sherry. Put the ears in a hot dish, strain the gravy over them, and serve very hot. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Hog’s Lard, To Make.—Strip the skin from the flear, leaf, or inner fat of the pig, cut it into small pieces, put it into an earthen jar, which must be covered and placed in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it remain until melted. Pour it off, and keep it either in small jars, closely covered, or small bladders— the smaller the better, unless it is intended to use the lard quickly. After it is exposed to the air it is liable to spoil. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. t Hog, or Black Puddings.—Throw a little salt into the blood as soon as it is drawn, stir it well, and, when cold, strain, Mix with it a third of its measure in milk, or good stock, and stir into it two-thirds of finely-shred beef suet to one-third of dried oatmeal, untilit is a stiff patter. Add pepper, salt, and finely-chopped onions, and, if liked, a little parsley, marjoram, or winter savoury. Cleanse the skins thoroughly. Cut them into equal lengths, and fill them with the mixture. Sew them securely. Put them into boiling water, and boil them gently, prick- ing them as they swell with a large darning- needle, to let out the air. Hang them in a dry place until wanted. Time, one hour to boil. Holly-leaves, To Frost, for Gar- nishing.—Take some holly-leaves, cleanse them thoroughly, lay them on a large dish some little distance from the fire, and let them remain there until perfectly dry. Dip them into butter, melted until it will run, strew white powdered sugar over them, and dry them before the fire. Keep in a dry place until wanted for use. Time ten minutes to dry. + Holmby Cup.—Dissolve two ounces of pounded loaf sugar in a pint of claret. Adda wine-glassful of brandy, a bottle of soda-water, and two table-spoonfuls of crushed ice. Holstein Cream.—Take the thin rind of alemon, and let it soak by the side of the fire in a pint of cream for half an hour, and after- wards bring it slowly to a boil. Mix a tea- spoonful of ground rice very smoothly with the strained juice of the lemon and a little cold milk. Stir it into the boiling liquid, add two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and boil five minutes | longer, stirring all the time. Slice a small ; spongecake, and lay it in a glass dish, pour the ! cream over, and garnish according to taste. ! If milk be used instead of cream, double the | above quantity of ground rice will be required. Probable cost, 6d., if made with milk. Sufficient for three or four persons. Holstein Sauce, for Fish.— Mix a quarter of a pint of the water in which the fish was boiled with an equal quantity of light wine. Thicken the lignid with a table-spoontul of flour, mixed smoothly with two ounces of butter, and stir it over the fire until it boils. Adda salt-spoonful of salt, a- little pepper, and the eighth of a nutmeg, grated. Beat the yolk of | an egg in a basin, and mix with it the juice of a lemon. Draw the sauce back from the fire for a minute, then stir into it the egg and half an ounce of butter, and serve. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 3d., exclu- sive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Honey, Butter Preserved with (see Butter Preserved with Honey). Honey Cake.—Stir half a pint of sour cream into a pint of flour. Add about half a tea-spoonful of ground ginger, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, two table- spoonfuls of sugar and honey, according to taste. Mix thoroughly, and when the cake is ready for the oven, add half 4 tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, dissolved in a small quantity of hot water. Beat again for a few minutes, pour the mixture into a buttered mould, and bake in a good oven. This cake may be eaten either warm or cold. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for four persons. Honey Cakes (a German recipe).—Put two ounces of butter into a saucepan, and when melted, stir in half a pound of honey. Let it boil, stirring briskly all the time. Take it from the fire, and, when slightly cool, mix with it the finely-minced rind of half a lemon, two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and coarsely pounded, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, and half a pound of flour, and, last of all, half an ounce of car- ponate of soda dissolved in a small quantity of warm water. Leave the mixture in a cool place twelve or fourteen hours. Roll it out half an inch thick, cut it into small square cakes, put a thin slice of candied peel in the middle of each cake, and a slice of blanched almond in the four corners. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes, Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for a dozen cakes. Honeycomb Cream.—Strain and sweeten liberally the juice of two large lemons and a Seville orange. Put it into a glass dish. Boil a pint and a half of thick cream. Pour it into a heated teapot. Put the glass dish con- taining the juice on the ground, and pour the cream on it very slowly, and from a good height, so as to froth it well. Let it stand until cold. It should be well stirred at table before serving. This is the old-fashioned way of preparing honeycomb cream, but a better plan is to whisk the white of an egg and a little sugar with the cream, then, as the froth rises, to take it off and lay it upon the lemon- juice until all the cream is used. Honeycomb cream should be made the day before it is wanted, and put at once into the dish in which it is to remain. Time, an hour or more to pre- pare. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Honeycomb Gingerbread (see Gin- gerbread, Honeycomb). Honeycomb, Lemon (see Lemon Honey- comb). : ; Honeycomb, To Keep.—Put the honey- comb as whole as possible into a large jar. Set it aslant, so that the thin part may drop off. HON ( 318 ) HOR Cover it closely, to exclude the air, and store it im a cool, dry place. It may-thus be kept good for some months. evens eg ; Honey Noyau, for Flavouring.— Blanch and pound an ounce of sweet almonds and two ounces of bitter almonds; mix with them a pound of sifted sugar, and pour over them two pints of gin mixed with half a pint of milk, which has been: boiled with a large table- spoonful of honey, and allowed to cool, Add the thin rind and strained juice of a large lemon, and pour all into a good-sized bottle. Shake the mixture frequently. In twelve days it will be ready for use. Filter through blotting-paper, and keep in bottles securely, corked. Probable cost, 1s., exclusive of the gin. Sufficient for a little more than three pints of flavouring. Honey, Orange Marmalade with (see Orange Marmalade with Honey). Honey, Vinegar made from. —A strong and-excellent vinegar may be made from honey. Dissolve two pounds of pure honey in, half a gallon of water. Put it into a small cask and leave the hole uncorked, merely cover- ing: it with a piece of muslin to preserve the liquid from dust, &c. Expose it to the heat of the sun—the hotter the better—and in about six weeks it will be ready for use. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for nearly three quarts of vinegar. : 3 Hop Salad (« German recipe).—Take some young hops before they are leafy. Boil them in a little salt and water, and when they are partially cooked, but not quite tender, drain and dry them thoroughly, and pour over them a salad-dressing made with lemon-juice instead |: of vinegar. © Hop Tea.—Put the hops into a covered jug with boiling water, in the proportion of an ounce of hops to a pint of water. When cold, pour off the liquid and bottle for use. A quarter of a pint taken fasting is often found beneficial in attacks of indigestion. If double the quantity of hops is used, it will be an ex- cellent tonic. Sufficient for a pint of the tea. Hops and Sherry Cordial.—Fill « wide-mouthed bottle with hops. They may be shaken together, but must not be pressed down. Cover them with sherry, and let them infuse fora month. Strain the liquid, and mix with it a syrup made by boiling half a pint of water with six ounces of sugar. Strain, and keep the cordial in closely-corked bottles for use. A wine-glassful taken in half a tumblerful of water will be found both agreeable and strengthening. Sufficient for a little more than a pint of the cordial. Horseradish for Garnish,—Wash and scrub the horseradish thoroughly. Let it lie for an hour in cold water; then scrape it very finely with a sharp knife. Arrange it in little bunches round the dish, or, if there is gravy with the meat, put it in a small glass dish near the carver. Probable cost, 2d. per root. Horseradish, Pickling.—Scrape the outer skin off the horseradish, and cut it into inch lengths. Put these into earthen jars, cover with cold vinegar, and cork securely. Time, half an hour to prepare. ‘Wax the corks, and keep the pickle in a cool place. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost of horseradish, 2d. per root. Horseradish Powder.—Slice- some horseradish. Dry it in a Dutch oven very gradually, or the flavour will be lost. When | thoroughly dry, pound it to powder, and keep it in bottles securely corked. The best time for preparing the powder is in November and December. Horseradish Sauce, Brown (for boiled meat or fish).—Grate two table-spoonfuls of horseradish, put it into a stewpan with half'a pint of good brown gravy, and let it stand by the side of the fire until quite hot. Add a . tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a clove of garlic pounded with a little butter, and a dessert- spoonful of vinegar. If it is wished to have the sauce very mild, use equal parts of bread- crumbs and the scraped root. Serve in a tureen. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons.' Horseradish Sauce (for cold roast beef). —Wash and brush the horseradish. Soak it for an hour in cold water, and scrape it very finely with a sharp knife. Mix two table- spoonfuls of it with half a tea-spoonful of salt and a tea-spoonful of powdered mustard. Add gradually a quarter of a pint of cream, or, instead, the yolk of an egg mixed with three table-spoonfuls of olive-oil, and afterwards two table-spoonfuls of vinegar; stir in briskly but gradually. Mix well, and serve in a boat. Probable cost, Sufficient for five or six persons. Horseradish Sauce (for hot roast beef).—Prepare the sauce as above (see Horseradish Sauce for cold roast beef). Before serving, put it into a jar, and place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water. When quite hot the sauce is ready to serve, but it must not boil, or it will curdle. If used cold with hot meat, it-will most likely cool everything on the plate with it. Time, a few minutes to heat. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Horseradish Sauce, Hot (for boiled fowls, &c.).—Prepare the horseradish as before. Grate an ounce very finely, add a pinch of salt, and pour over it half a pint of good cream. Mix thoroughly,.and serve in a boat. Time, half an hour to prepare. Pro- bable cost, 10d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Horseradish Sauce, Superior Fla- vouring for.—Rub one large lump of sugar upon the peel of an orange until all the yellow part is taken off. Pound the sugar to powder, and squeeze the juice of the orange over it. Let it dissolve; then mix it with two table- spoonfuls of finely-grated horseradish, or, if preferred, a table-spoonful of horseradish and one of bread-crumbs; add half a tea-spoonful of salt, a small pinch of cayenne, three table- spoonfuls of oil, and sufficient vinegar to make a thick cream. Time, half an hour. Probable Is. ‘cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Horseradish Sauce with Apples (a German recipe).—Take a table-spoonful of HOR ( 319 ) HOT finely-grated horseradish, and a‘table-spoonful of apples boiled to a pulp.’ ‘Mix thém well to- gether,‘add half atea-spoonful of sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar,-and sérvé in-a tureen. Time, a few mmutes to prepare. Pro- bable cost, 2d.. Sufficient for three or four persons. fe Horseradish Sauce with Cream (a German recipe).—Mix four table-spoonfuls of thick cream, with two of white wine vinegar. Add a tea-spoonful of sugar, a tea-spoonful of salt,-a pinch of cayenne, and as much grated horseradish as will make a thick sauce. Serve in atureen. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. ~~ Horseradish Sauce with Eggs (a German recipe).—Boil two eggs hard. en cold, pound the yolks with ee of a wooden spoon, and add very gradually three or four table-spoonfuls of vinegar, sufficient to make a smooth cream. Add three dessert-spoonfuls of grated horseradish and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Serve inatureen. Time, ten minutes to boil the eggs. Probable cost, 3d. Suffi- cient for two or three persons. Horseradish Vinegar. — Take four | ounces of grated horseradish. Put them into a jar, with a drachm of cayenne; an ounce of finely-minced' shallots, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Pour over them a quart of boiling vinegar, cover closely, and keep in a warm place for a. fortnight. Draw off the vinegar, let it boil once more, strain it through a tamis, and keep it bottled closely until required. This vinegar | will be found useful as a ‘relish for cold meat, and for flavouring salads, &c. about 8d. Sufficient for a quart of vinegar. Hotch-potch.—Take two pounds of the narrow half of the round of beef, Cut it into pieces about two inches square, and put’ them into a stewpan, with a few soraps of fat beef or veal, five pints of water, and half a pint of beer. ‘Let these boil up, then add two. large carrots, sliced, two-‘onions, two sticks of celery, two turnips, and some pieces of cauliflower. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently for three hours. Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan. Mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with it. Let it brown, dilute it with a little of the broth, season with ketchup, and add it to the rest of the stew. Let the broth boil up once more, and add pepper and salt to taste. Serve in a large dish. Put the meat in the middle, the vegetables round, the gravy over all, and send to table as hot as possible. Hotch- potch may be made with beef, mutton, lamb, fowl, or pickled pork, and with vegetables vary- ing according to the.season. A mixture of two kinds of meat is very good, and some cooks mince the.meat instead of serving it in cutlets. In the West Indies. it is very commonly used by the natives, but is made so hot with pepper, that; it is known by the name of “ pepper pot.” Probable cost, 2s. for this quantity. Sufficient for six or seven persons. “Hotch-poteh;' Mutton (see “Mutton Hotch-potch). Bn Probable cost, | -Hotch-potch, Ox-tail.— Divide an ox- tail at the joints, rub it with salt, and soak it in lukewarm water for an hour or two. Put it into a stewpan with.a scraped carrot, a small bunch of savoury herbs, a bay-leaf, two onions, one of them stuck with two cloves, a clove of garlic, six peppercorns, half a tea-spoonful of salt, ‘and sufficient water to cover them. Simmer gently until ‘the meat is tender, and leavés the bones easily. Thicken with flour and butter, and serve with sippets round the dish. In the season, a pint of green peas, stewed. in the gravy a few minutes before serving, 'is.an improvement. ‘ Timé, two hours. Probable cost, ox-tail, from Is. to 28. Sufficient for three or four persons. ~ Hotch-potch, Scotch. — Take. three quarts of good mutton broth. Put it intoa deep stewpan, and let it boil; then put with it a quart of young vegetables sliced, including equal quantities of carrots, turnips, onions, finely-shred lettuce, sprigs of cauliflower, and a. little chopped parsley. Adda pint of freshly- shelled green peas, and three pounds of mutton chops, cut either from the loin or the best end of the neck, and freed from all superfluous fat. If preferred, lamb may be substituted for mutton: in either case the meat must be fresh and sweet, and the vegetables young. Boil until the meat_and vegetables are tender, then add another pint of peas and a, little pepper and salt, and, when these are tender, serve in a deep dish.. Time, about two hours. Pro- bable cost, 4s. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. is seg Hotch-potch, Winter.—Put.a pound of dried green peas into water-to soak the night be- fore itis intended to make'the hatch-potch. Take two pounds of the best end of the neck of mutton and two pounds of .the shin or breast of beef- Cut.the mutton into neat cutlets, free from alh superfluous fat, and the beef into small square pieces, Set them aside until wanted. Put four quarts of water into a stewpan with two sliced carrots, two sliced turnips, four onions, a tea- spoonful of bruised celery-seed tied in muslin, the soaked peas, and a whole turnip and carrot. Boil for two hours. Take out the whole carrot. and turnip, mash them to a pulp, and return them to the stew with the meat and a little pepper and salt. Simmer gently an hour longer, and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 3s- 6d. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. .. Hotch-potch, Winter (another way).— See German Broth or Winter Hotch-potch,, .. Hot Cross Buns.—Mix two pounds of flour with a small ‘tea-spoonful: of powdered spice and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Rub in half a pound of good butter. Make a hollow in the flour, and pour in a wine-glassful of yeast and half a pint of warmed milk slightly coloured. with saffron. Mix the surrounding flour with the milk and yeast to a thin batter; throw a little dry flour over, and set the pan before the fire to tise. When risen, work in a little sugar, one egg, half a pound of currants, and milk to make a soft dough. .Cover over as before, and let it stand half an: hour.. Then make the dough into buns, and HoT ( 320) HOW mark them with the back of. a knife. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 1d. each. Sufficient for twenty-four buns. Hot Cross Buns (another way).—Sce Good Friday Buns. ae Hot Piekle.—Mince an ounce. of shallots very finely, and put into a stewpan with an ounce of whole. ginger, two ounces of. salt, a quarter of an ounce of mustard-seed, half an ounce of pepper, two drachms of cayenne, and half an ounce ofallspice. Pour overthem a quart of vinegar, and let. the mixture boil. Put it into a jar and let it get cold, then add any fresh vegetables that are obtainable, ‘such: as cauliflowers, French beans, radish-pods, aspara- gus, or even green gooseberries and unripe apples. More pickle may be added when re- quired, and vegetables as: they: come into season. Probable cost of pickle, 1s. 6d.: for as many vegetables as it will entirely cover. Hot Pint, Scotch.—Mix two table-spoon- fuls of cold ale with a well-beaten egg. Adda table-spoonful of sugar, half a. nutmeg, grated, and a quarter of a pint of whiskey. Stir this mixture into two pints of ale which are just upon the point of boiling. Leave the ingre- dients on the fire till they nearly boil, but not quite ; then pour the hot pint quickly, and from a good height, from one jug to another, for three or four minutes. It should be served hot. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 10d., exclusive of the whiskey. ‘The above quantities are sufficient for three pints of the liquid. ae ite Hot Pot.—Take two pounds of chops from the best endi of the neck, and one: sheep’s- kidney. ‘Trim. them neatly, cut off‘all.super- fluous fat, and lay half of them in a deep dish well buttered, and with them a kidney cut in slices. Sprinkle over them a little pepper and salt and a tea-spoonful of finely-minced oaions, and place upon them a quarter of a pound’ of potatoes cut in slices. Put two or three small lumps of dripping here and there, and repeat until the meat is used and the dish nearly full. Cover the top with whole potatoes, pour half a pint’ of water or stock over,iand bake in a moderate oven. A'‘few oysters are by many considered an improvement, and for ‘this purpose tinned oysters: will be found to answer nearly as well ‘as fresh ones, and to be much less ex- pensive:: Half a tin will:be sufficient for this quantity. Lay them upon the meat, pour a little of the liquid over them, and proceed as above. Time, three hours or more ‘to’ bake. Sufficient ‘for six or seven persons. Probable cost 28. 10d. Hot Pot, Lancashire (see Lancashire Hot Pot). Se eo uae Hot Sauce, for Broils, &c.—Melt two ounces of butter in a stewpan, stir in with it a table-spoonful of flour, and mix smoothly with the back of a wooden spoon until it is lightly browned. Add gradually to it a quarter of a pint of good stock, stirring all the time ; add ‘also a tea-spoonful of chopped capers, 4 tea-spoonful of chopped shallots, a tea-spoonful of mustard, half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, a table -spoonful of walnut ketchup, a table-spoon- Sufficient | ful of port, or claret, and a quarter of a tea spoonful of cayenne. Boil gently for’ six o seven minutes, and serve as hot as possible. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. a 7 : 7 Hot’ Spice, for Flavouring. Sauce, Gravies, &c.—Take half an ounce éach of cinnamon, black pepper, andigingér. Pound them thoroughly in a mortar, and with them three- quarters of an ounce!of '¢ayenni, ‘dne ounce of mace; two ounces of finely-grated nutmeg, three ounces of white pepper, anda dozencloves.’ When thoroughly pounded and mixed put these ingte- dients into a bottle, and keep the’ spice:closely stoppered until required. Time, halt an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. When it is to be used, try a little pinch of the'powder at first, and add more if required. ©! Sah _ Household, Gravy, Superior,—Take one pound pf lean veal from, the fillet. Put: it into 4 stewpan, and with it any trimmings and bones of beef, veal, or mutton; but they must be perfectly sweet, or they will spoil the gravy. Add half a pint of water, and simmer gently untila light glaze is formed at. fhe bottom of the stewpan; then add a pint and a half of water, a small onion with one clove stuck in it, three sprigs of parsley and ,one of, thyme, a small carrot, a.bay-leaf, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a, tea-spoonful of pepper. Boil; then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer gently for one hour. It must be only partially covered; or the gravy will not be clear. Take the fat off :care- fully, strain thebroth, and put it aside for use. It will kéep'for three or four days if boiled octa- sionally and kept without'cover in a cool place. Afew spoonfuls will improve sauces and gravies: The veal will be found excellent if cut into, convenient-sized pieces and s¢rved with '4' few stewed mushrooms and ‘a little of 'the gravy: Sufficient for a pint and half. ' Probable cost, 1s. 2d. t daa NS : hess ra Housewife’s Cream.—Rub the yellow part ofa fresh lemon upon three ounces of loaf sugar; reduce the sugar to powder, and-stinit until dissolved into half a pint of thick cream. Add the strained juice and a quarter of :a pint of sherry, and whisk all well together until thicls/ Serve in custard-glasses, which should be kept inia cool place until: wanted....This cream iis better,if made a few hours: before it is used. Just before serving, dust: a little powdered cinnamon :or pink sugar over the: top. Time, one hour to prepare... Probable cost, exclusive of: the sherry, 10d. Sufficient. for, four glasses. 9. ba er (hls Howtowdie (a Scotch dish).—Truss 4 young fowl as for boiling, and stuff’ it? with good veal ‘forcemeat. ‘Put it’ into a saucepan with a closely-fitting lid, and with ‘it four ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of good stock, three sprigs of parsley and one of thyme, half a tea-spoonful of salt, a, quarter of a! tea~’ spoonful of peppér, six small onions; d bay-leaf, and one clove. Simmer gently for orie hour if the chicken is young ant small, and longer ‘if necessary. When it is half-cookéd,. turn it in t LR 4 ange : ‘the pan’ and pour another half-pint of gravy HUN ( 821 ) HUN over it. Have ready some spinach. Press it into small balls; flatten these on the top, and lay a poached ege upon each. Put the fowl in the middle. Thicken the gravy, pour it over the fowl, and serve as hot as possible. A few stewed mushrooms may be sent to table on a separate dish. Sufficient for three or four per- sons. Probable cost of fowl, 2s. 6d. Hungarian Tongue (a German recipe). —Take a fresh bullock’s-tongue. Put it into a stewpan with a carrot, an onion, a clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a dozen peppercorns, half a fresh lemon sliced, and as much water as will cover it. Let it boil; then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and simmer gently until the tongue is quite tender. ‘lake off the skin, and trim the tongue neatly; strain and reduce the gravy. Gx a table-spoonful of flour very smoothly with two ounces of butter. Keep stirring over the fire until it is lightly browned, and steam a bruised clove of garlic in the browning. Add gradually three-quarters of a pint of gravy, and when quite smooth and thick stir in the juice of half a lemon. Pour a little of the sauce into the dish with the tongue, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon. Time, two hours to simmer the tongue. Probable cost of tongue, from 3s. 6d. to 4s.6d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Hung Beef (sce Beef, Dutch, or Hung, and Beef, Hung). Hunter’s, or Spiced Beef.—Take a round of beef weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds. Let it hang a day or two; then rub it well with « powder made by pounding together one pound of salt, an ounce and a half of saltpetre, half an ounce of allspice, half an ounce of black pepper, two ounces of moist sugar, and a tea-spoonful of herb- powder, if this be in the house; if not, it may be omitted. Take out the bone, and turn and rub the meat every day for a fortnight. At the end of that time wash it well with.a soft sponge, put it into a stewpan, just cover it with water, bring it to a boil, and let it simmer gently for five hours. It may remain in the water in which it was cooked until it is nearly cold, if it is intended to be used at once; but though this will improve the taste, it will prevent its keeping so long. The beef is better if kept uncut until cold. It will keep a fortnight or more in moderate weather. Tt is an excellent plan, instead of boiling the beef, to bake it. Put it into a pan with a sliced onion, a quart of water, and nearly three pounds of beef or mutton-suet cut small and placed on the top of the beef. Cover with a coarse flour and water paste, and bake in a moderate oven. When cold, take off the crust ; pour off the gravy, which will be found excel- lent for soups and sauces. Put the suet into an earthen jar, and melt it slowly in a moderate oven. Pour it off frequently as it melts. It may be used for frying, &c. The meat will keep for six weeks in moderate weather. Time, six hours to bake. Probable cost, 11d. per pound. ‘ 2QI1—N.B Hunter’s Beef (another way).—Take as lean a piece as can be procured of the flank of beef. The thin end is the best. Take out the bones, and rub the meat well cvery day for a fortnight with a mixture made of onc pound of salt, one ounce of saltpetre, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, one ounce of pounded allspice, one ounce of pounded cloves, and one grated nut- meg. At the end of the time roll it as closely and firmly as possible, and bind it securely with skewers and tape. Just cover it with water, and boil or bake it for five or six hours. Do not loosen the tapes, &c., until the meat is quite cold. Probable cost, 74d. per pound. Hunter’s Beef (another way).—See Beef, Hunter's. Hunter’s Bread and Meat Pud- ding.—Take two pounds of dough made with yeast, such as would be used for bread; or it this cannot be obtained, use a dough: mixed with the white of eggs. Roll it out an inch thick. Cut two pounds of rump-steak into small pieces. Pepper and salt each piece, and season it with a very small quantity of pounded allspice. Place the meat in rows on the dough, taking care that a,fatty piece is in each row; then roll the dough round and fasten it securely at the ends, very much like a roly-poly pudding. It may then be either baked or boiled. This isa convenient form of preparing provision for those who have to make long expeditions, and do not wish to be burdened with much luggage. Any sort of meat may be substituted for the rump- steak, and endless varieties may be introduced ; but the meat should always be cut into mouthfuls, and the ends securely fasteried to prevent the gravy escaping. Time to boil or bake, two hours. Sufficient for four persons. Probable cost, 2s. 10d., if made with rump- steak. Hunter’s Gingerbread (see Ginger- bread, Hunter’s). : Hunter’s Partridge Pie (see Partridge Pie, Hunter's). Hunter’s Pie.—Take two pounds of the best end of a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, trim these neatly, remove all superfluous fat, add pepper and salt, put them into a stew- pan with a small quantity of water, and let them stew gently for half an hour. Boil and mash three or four pounds of good potatoes. Line a buttered pie-dish with them, put in the meat and gravy, and shape a crust over the top of the remainder of the potatoes. Bake in a good oven for half an hour. If the pie is not nicely browned, hold a red-hot fire- shovel over it for a minuteortwo. Just before serving make an incision in the middle of the crust, and pour in a little boiling gravy. Pro- bable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Hunter’s Pudding.—A hunter’s pud- ding and a plum pudding are very similar. Mix half a pound of finely-shred beef-suet with a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs and a quarter of a pound of flour, add half a pound of stoned and chopped raisins, half a pound of picked currants, half a pound of sugar, the grated rind and strained juice of half a lemon, a pinch of salt, half a nutmeg, grated, and an HUN ( 322 ) ACE ounce of candied lemon. When the dry ingre- dients are thoroughly mixed, stir in four well- beaten eggs, and either milk, beer, port wine, or brandy sufficient to ‘make a stiff batter. Put the mixture into a buttered mould, and boil for six orseven hours. This pudding will keep for seyeral months, and when used may be either cut into slices and fried, or plunged again into boiling water and boiled for an hour. ‘Several puddings may be mixed and boiled ’ ‘of well-kept partri together, and are very useful for keeping in the house to be used as occasion requires. If finely- minced cooked meat be substituted for the suet, ' this pudding may be eaten cold. Another excel- lent hunter’s pudding may be made by taking a pound and a half of the mince made for mince pies, mixing it with six ounces of finely-grated -bread-crumbs. and three eggs. Probable cost, 1s. 3d., exclusive of the wine, &c. Sufficient for five or six persons. eB me pe Ode. Aawaes Hunter’s Salmi.—Take cold':.roast game—if ‘under-dressed so much the better— carve it into neat joints, remove the skin, '&e., score the flesh lightly across in two orthree ‘places, dredge a little salt and cayenne: over, and put them into a saucepan. ‘Squeeze the strained juice of 'a lemon over them, and add a tea-spoonful of finely-minced ‘lemon-rind, three table-spoontfuls of the best salad-oil, and six of light wine. Let the pieces of meat remain until they aré quite hot, and send rusks or grilled crusts totable with them. Time, a few minutes to heat through. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the ame and wine, Sufficient, one bird for two or three persons. Hunter’s Sandwiches.—When sand- wiches' have:to be: kept.a. little while in .the pocket before being used, they should be toasted lightly on the outside. This, will keep, them from crumbling. Hunter’s Sou .—Partially roast a brace es, or a partridge and a grouse. Put them rather close to a clear fire, and’ baste them plentifully. ‘As soon as the outside is well browned take them up, and when nearly cool cut the meat from the bones in neat fillets, and bruise, the bones thoroughly. Cut half a pound of lean ham into dice, and fry these in two ounces of butter with a sliced carrot, an onion, and a little parsley. Mix in very smoothly two table-spoonfuls of flour or ground rice, and when slightly browned add two quarts of streng beef gravy, the bruised bones, and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer gently for two hours, then strain the soup. Add the slices of meat and a glass of claret, and let it heat once sore without boiling, Serve the meat with the soup. Time, twenty minutes to roast the partridges. Probable cost, uncertain, game being variable in price. Sufficient for six or eight persons. _Hunting Game Pie (see Game Pie, Hunting). ~ ; : Hyssop Tea (Invarip Cookery).—Pour a quart of boiling water. over half an ounce of dried hyssop-flowers. Cover it closely, and Tet it remain for a quarter of an hour. Strain the infusion, and sweeten it with a table-spoonful of honey. Two table-spoonfuls should be taken three times a day. Hyssop tea ig good for chest diseases. Probable cost, 3d.’ Sufficiént for a quart. es Midas INGOs. ak Ce oy _Iee Colour.—Ices are sometimes coloured simply with cochineal, but'we appénd the follow- ing recipe, copied from good authority :—Boil over a slow fire for five or six minutes in 4 pint of water, or clarified sugar if not to be used too quickly, equal quantities of cochineal (bruised) and salts of .wormwood, an ounce of cath. Add .three ounces’ of cream! of tartar, and an ounce of rock alum; hut remove the ‘saucepan from the fire before putting in the cream ‘of tartar, &c., or it will boil over, and the whole mixture will be spoiled. ,. Leh Ice, Mock.— Dissolve an ounce of gelatine in a cupful of milk. Put with it one pint‘dt fresh fruit (strawberries, raspberries, or red ¢urramits) which has been rubbed through a sieve, and add half a pint of cream and a little sugar. Put the creani into a mduld till set. If liked, melted jam can be used instead ‘of, the fruit pulp. aie See rine . Ice, Preservation and Cutting of. Ice may be preserved by: burying it in saw- dust, or wrapping it first in paper then in flannel, and keeping it in a tub with flannel thrown over. ‘The paper and flannel must be changed when wet. Ice maybe divided into small pieces’ by placing a needle point down- wards onthe ice, and striking the head of it with a small hammer, a { co Iced Pudding.—Make a custard,.with half a pint of milk, the yolks of four eggs, two ounces of. sugar, and a ,little vanilla, When thick and smooth add: half a pint of cream and half a gill of maraschino. Freeze till stiff. Take two, ounces of stale-sponge cake soaked in cream and two ounces of dried fruit consisting of dried cherries and pine-apple cut.small. Put the mould in ice. Place a ‘ttle of the ice eream at the bottom, then a layer of fruit and another of sponge cake. Repeat till the mould is full. Cover closely. and imbed in ice. _Iced Pudding (another way).—Beat up eight eggs, and add to them twelve ounces of good sugar and a pint and a half of new milk. Pound together in w mortar swect and bitter almonds, half a pound of the former and two ounces of the latter, which should be blanched, and dried ina clean cloth, then pounded, and put with the other ingredients into a well- lined saucepan. Stir, and let the’ pudding thicken, but do not let it boil. Strain and: put it into the freezing-pot for half.an hour, when it should be transposed to an jice-pudding mould, and kept in the ice until required for. use. Serve turned out, with a compote of fruit in the dish, and some over the top'of the pudding A gill of curagoa, maraschino, or any other liqueur will improve the pudding, Iced Punch.—Get three medium-sized. lemons, or two large ones, with good rough rinds, and eight ounces of sugar in lumps. “toe ( 323 ) ‘IMP “Rub off the outer lemon.rind on the sugar, also the rind of two China oranges. Dissolve, the sugar by pouring the juice of the fruit (which should be squeezed dry) over it, and then press- ing and stirring it until thoroughly mixed, as much depends on the careful incorporation of ,the juices with the sugar; add water (boiling) until the sherbet, for so. it, is called, is of the - desired flavour, and when cool enough, pour in brandy and rum—a pint of each will be sufti- ciént.. This will make four quarts of excellent punch. The Italians beat the whites of eggs to froth, and add it to the sherbet; it is then iced, and served in glasses. The sherbet is much richer if the lemon-pulp be beaten in with the sugar, but; it should be strained before the spirits are added to it. , a Iceland Moss Jelly.—Wash four ounces of .Iceland, moss in warm water, and having drained it set it over the fire in a quart of cold water. Stir until it boils, when it. should be covered up and allowed to simmer for an hour. Add four ounces of. sugar, a, gill of sherry, the juice of two.lemons, the rind of half a lemon, and the white of an egg whisked with half a gill of cold water; stir the jelly until it boils, and strain through a flannel bag. This moss is considered efficacious in cases of debility and: chest-com- plaints, but its bitter taste renders it: disagrec- able. 6 Bo he ‘ Ices.—For the following ices see under their respective headings :— | Atyonp. Creax | Mivangse. Atmonp anv Oraxce Mirre Frurr Noyrau Ice Cream APPLE WATER ~ Apricot Ick Cream Apricot ‘WaTER ~' | Barperry Water | Bousmian Ick Cream Breap, Brown, Ice Cream Currry WATER” CuocoLaTE CREAM ' CrnnaMon ‘CREAM Correz Iczk Cream’ Currant Cream | Cutxanr Water GincER CREAM GinczeR WatTER Grape’ Water — Lemon Icz Cream ‘LanascHino Meio WatkR “VANILLA CREAM Orance WarTEeR Orceat Cream’ Peacu CreAm Ick Peacu WATER PIne-APPLE WATER PoMEGRANATE WATER ' RasPBERRY CREAM Ratarra Cream Rux Ice SHERBET : SrrawBerry CREAM Srrawzerry Ice anp VANILLA Ice’ IN ONE MOULD STRAWBERRY WarTER + vt Warer Ice. Ices, Sugar Clarified. for.—Dissolve six pounds. of sugar in four quarts of water. Let it then come slowly to a boil; add the white.of anjepg, well beaten, to the water, and boil ten minutes, when it, may be strained and bottled. it is. difficult to. freeze ices which are over sweet. S ' Icing for Cakes (see Frost or Icing for Cakes)’ io we ae , Icing for Cakes, Almond (see Almond Icing for Cakes). : 4 Icing for. Fruit Pies and Tartsi— Before putting, the pie or tart in the ,oven, wet it all over with cold water, sprinkle fine white sugar thickly on jit, and press this lightly with {he hand. ., Lmperial.—Slice a large lemon without paring it, and bruise, well two ounces of ginger. Put thege into an earthen jar with two pounds .of loaf sugar and an ounce of cream of. tartar. Pour over it two gallons of boiling water, and Jet if remain until cold; then stir in two table- spoonfuls of yeast, and coyer. Strain the next day, and bottle, when it will be fit for use in twenty-four hours. Or, take’ double the quantity of cream ‘of tartar and lemon, pour over these six, quarts of boiling water, and add 2 quart of rum! and sugar to taste. Strain it the next day, when the imperial should be bottled and tightly corked. Probable cost, exclusive of rum, Is. 6d.” eee a ; at Imporial Cake.--Separate the yolks from the whites of six eggs, beat the'yolks until light, and the whites to’a firm froth. Have ready the crumb of three French rolls soaked ‘in-millp and squeczed dry.,,, Beat the bread and four ounces of warmed butter together, then add the egg-yolks, two ounces of \fine sugar (pounded), and some grated lemon-pecl., While beating the mixture, add currants, sultana raisins, pounded. blanched almonds, and candied peel, two ounces of, cach, and lastly stir in the frothed whites of the eggs. Bako in a shallow cake-tin and-a moderate oven.. Sprinkle the tin with fine crumbs, and :the,cake, when done, ‘with fine sugar. ‘Time, one hour. Probable ‘cost, 28.00 6 pg edad “Imperial Cream.—Put the strained juice of three.lemons into a rather deep glass dish. Boil a quart of cream with the thin rind of a lemon, and pour it into a jug, stirting' in at'the same time, by degrees, eight ounces: of finely- powdered sugar. Keep the cream stirred until it is nearly cold, and the sugar is quite dissolved, then add it to the strained juice, keeping the jug as high as possible, and mixing the juice and cream.well together as it. falls, from the spout of. the, jug.. This cream should be allowed several hours to set.., Probable cost, 2s. 3d. Imperial Drink.—Put half an’ ounce’ of cream of tartar into a large jug, which should ‘be well heated first, add the rind of a large lemon, a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, and about three pints of boiling water from the kettle. Cover closely, and let the jug stand near the fire for an ‘hour or so. Stir the liquid occasionally while hot, and when quite cold and clear, pour off from the sediment. This is a cooling and pleasant drink for’ the summer. Probable cost, 3d. °° Imperial Gingerbread.—Take twelve ounces of dried flonr, and blend with it six ounces of butter. Make into a paste with a pint of cream and six ounces of treacle stirred together by degrees before being added’ to the flour; the cream is liable to get turned.if this is not carefully done. Strew in an ounce, of cara- way seeds, with a quarter of a pound of sugar, and half an ounce of powdered ginger. ‘Fhe paste should be stiff. When cut into shapes, stick candied, orange of lemon peel on the top, and bake,on a tin, plate, well buttered. | Time, ‘ten to fifteen, minutes to bakc. Probable cost, Qs, bd. for this quaritity.”" * Bae SS \ IMP ( 324 ) ous : ols ee: ry ada Imperial Gingerbread (another way). —See Gingerbread, Imperial. : ' Imperial. Punch, Cold.—Cut a pine- apple into very thin slices, ard slice also four closely-peeled China oranges, leaving none of the white pith attached to the orange-slices. Put the slices into a bowl. Extract the flavour from an inch length of vanilla, and a piece of cinnamon, about a drachm in weight, by heating them in a quart of water with the peel of a Seville orange. Rub off the rind of a lemon on a lump or two of sugar, and squeeze the juice from four léinons into the bowl, adding the sugar with more lemon-juice to make half a’ pound, then strain in the vanilla liquid, and cover to get cold. When quite cold mix a bottle each of rum, hock, and’ champagne, with a pint of seltzer water. , Stir well, and serve in champagne glasses, cold. | 3 Dfeelies --Imperial Schmarn.—Separate the yolks . from the whites of five eggs, whisk the yolks with a pint of cream, and froth the whites, which will be required when all the other itigre- dients are mixed. Add to the yolks four ounces of fine flour—made sweet with 4 table- spoonful of double-refined sugar—an ounce of sultana. raisins, the same of blanched ‘almonds, chopped, and, lastly, the frothed whites, which should be stirred in gently with the rést. Have | ready hot, in a clean stewpan, two ounces of butter, pour in the .schmarn or, batter, let the fire be brisk, and allow it to colour well, but not to burn; then with an iron spatula, or fork, tear the schmarn lightly apart, and allow it to set and brown again, when the same'¢rumbling or tearing process is to be repeated ; and when it has encrusted a second time, break it up smaller, and serve without delay, with pounded sugar and vanilla mixed together strewn over the top.. Probable cost, 1s. 10d..' Ba « Iniperial Soup.—To a gill of clear well- flavoured : stock mix three beaten eggs, two spoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper.;- Stir the liquid, and put it in a buttered basin, or mould. Cover with greased paper, that no water may enter, and steam the custard. gently till set. When cool turn it ouf,'cut ‘it iuto'thin slices, and’ divide these into ‘small diamonds or squares, Serve in a tureen of clear soup. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for two quarts of soup, and eight or ten persons. ° Imperials.—Beat six ounces of ,butter to ‘a cream, and mix it well into a pound of dried’ flour, and eight ounces of ,sifted. sugar. Cut two ounces of. candied orange-peel into bits, and grate the rind of a. small lemon. Add gradually half a pound of currants which have been. washed, stoned,: and : dried. perfectly. Moisten with four well-beaten eggs, and bake to a pale brown in a gentle: oven ona floured tin plate, in the form of little heaps, which is: best done by placing the paste with two forks, as roughly as possible, and at uniform distances upon the plate, Time, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is.6d. ' 710" OF '. Indian Bread and Meat, or Koobbe. -—This is a dish frequently-met with in India and Australia, and particularly suitable, for camping or picnics, as it does not require many ) of good vinegar with half pots and pans. -An ordinary bread dough is,rolled out.to any thickness (the thicker the better), a piece of meat, a fine goose, duck, or. fow! is enveloped in it, and.boiled or baked as may be most convenient. Poultry ‘with appropriate sauces may be cooked’ thus with little trouble, except the caution which, must necessarily be observed, to: keep the stuffing well’ secured before the birds are put into the dough. +». - Indian Burdwan.—A very savoury and highly-approved Indian dish. The’ joints of a parboiled fowl are generally used for.this dish, but if necessary the remains of chicken or fowls that have been served: before, and even rabbit, veal, or lamb may be warmed up in, the sauce, for which the following is the recipe :— Peel and chop very finely four shallots and an onion. Put them into a stewpan with'a small cup of good stock, a table-spoonful of the essence of anchovies, a little cayenne, and an ounce of butter rolled in flour. . Stir over the fire until:the sauce'is ready to boil; then put it aside to sim- mer till the onions are done, adding a small cupful of mixed Indian, pickles, cut into less than half-inch pieces; a table-spoonful of chili vinegar, and one or two glasses of wine, Madeira or sherry. Simmer the sauce|to make the pickles tender, and- pour in the wine when the fowl is ready to be stewed. Skin-and lay the fowl in neat pieces into the stewpan with the. sauce, and if the fowl has been only parboiled, stew it gently for fifteen or twenty minutes, but for | a thoroughly cooked fowl serve'as soon as'it is ready to boil, with ‘the juice of a fresh lime. Rice is somletinies served with Burdwan as‘with curry. avai eke _Indian Burdwan (another,, way).—See Burdwan, Indian. ep oss la ed Indian Chutney.—Boil, together a, pint a pound of sour, unripe apples, peeled, cored, and quartered. When pulped and cool, add, first pounding them separately in a mortar and afterwards, together, the , following. ingredients:—Four ounces. of stoned, raisins, eight ounces of , brown. sugar, two ounces of garlic, and two ounces, of, mys- tard-seed; mix these, well with two ounces: of powdered ginger, .the same of, salt, and one ounce of cayenne. , Put the. mixture into an earthenware jar,iand set the jar in:a warm corner by the fire until, next morning, when the chutney may be put into small, jars and tied down. It will, keep good a.year or two. Time, to. stew..apples, until, isoft:, Probable cost, 1s. 6d. . : faa | Indian Corn-flour Bread.—Take, In- dian maize and fine wheaten flour in the pro- portions. of.two pounds of; the former to four pounds of the latter. Mix in an. earthen pan, with a little saltto flavour, and, two table- spoonfuls of yeast stirred into half a pint.of warm water. Put the yeast into it, after making.a hol- low in the centre, and make a batter of the sur- rounding flour, which must be covered, lightly with flour and with a warm woollen cloth, and placed before the fire to rise for an hour. or more... When well risen, knead,the flour into a smooth dough with as much more warm water as will be necessary, and then make it inte aby ais 2 pa 4 ae ‘ Joaves which should be allowed to rise for | nearly half an hour beforé' being baked. Time, | an hour and three-quarters to two hours. Suffi- cient for two loaves. eens ita fiat 8 ee ia. os Tas ; . Indian Corn-flour Bread (another way).—See Bread, Indian Corn. Indian Cress, Nasturtiums, Pickled. The young leaves and flowers are some- ane ee oe an» ven ‘addition ' to salads, The berries should, be- gathered. in Seal and September a oe ae ‘used by some as a substitute for capers. Put them ag they are gathered, after rubbing them in a dry’ cloth, into vinegar, and allow to each quart’ ‘two ounces of salt, and fifteen pepper- corns. Put the vinegar, &c., into bottles, and fill with the nasturtium seed as it is gathered from ‘day to day. When full, cork tightly. Tndian créss is seldom td.be bought, but it is easily cultivated, and thrives well in poor soil. “Indian Cress, Nasturtiums, Pickled (another -way).—-Gather the nasturtiums before they-get old and dry::'' Wash the grit from them | in cold water, and sprinkle well with salt. Drain them the next day, and when quite dry scatter | amongst them,'in an earthen pickle-jar, whole pepper, a few’ cloves, tarragon leaves, and sliced ‘horseradish. Pour vinegar: enough: to cover, and let it be:cold. tie avd PU , Indian Crumpets.—Stir into a quart of warmed milk two large table-spoonfuls of yeast, 8 little salt, and as much wheat flour as will thi ken the milk toa batter., Cover it up closely by the side of the fire until next morning, then adda gill of melted baler and make into ate dough with yellow corn-meal. Rub a griddle over with ‘butter, and bake about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. pC ’ Indian Curry — Cut “two ‘pounds of | andressed meat, sweetbreads, fowls, or rabbits, ' with a rasher of bacon, into neat pieces’ or joints. Stew ina quarter of a pound of butter a clove of garlic, and an onion ot two. chopped, take these up when brown, fry the meat in the » same fat, drain it and lay it in a saucepan. Mix three dessert-spoonfuls of curry-powder, a table-spoonful of flour, and a teaspoonful of : salt, in sufficient water to make it into a smooth paste, then add a little more water, if required; » shake thé‘ mixture well in the stewpan till it boils. Pour the gravy over the'meat, simmer gently fill this is tender. Before serving add'a table-spoonful of ‘Jemon-juice. Serve the rice in a'séparate dish, the gravy in the dish with the meat, ‘Time, an hour or more to stew.” ‘Indian Curry.—Beat up two eggs‘ with — a quarter of # pint of milk, and beat' well into the milk a’ slice of bread previously soaked in milk. Pound 2 few sweet almonds, and fry a alised onion in an ounce of butter. Mix all well together with a table-spoonful of curry, another ounce of butter, and six or eight ounces of minced fowl ‘or. other cold’ ‘cooked ‘meat, seasoned with salt. Melt a little butter with gom9 lemon-juice, riba: bakirig-dish with it, and fill with the cuzry.' Serve boiled rice sepa- CA) ‘to: make ‘them a ‘nice size. rateiy. Time, half an hour. Probable cost; ‘Is.; | excl-zsive of the moat, aa IND Indian Curry-powder.—It is necessai to have all the sens de in the itenaention ot curry-powder well ‘dtied:" ‘A' cool’oven will dry them best.’ \-Put them in at. night, they will be ready for pounding in the morning.),. Pound together an:,ounce each of ' coriander ard poppy-seed, half an ounce of ground ginger, and the same‘of,mustard-seed, with a quarter of an ounce of red chilies, and halfia drachm of cinnamon... Cork the bottle containing this mixture tightly. . : be Indian Curry, Simple.—Cut up a chicken into nice joints. Poupd in a mortar a small| onion, a clove ,of, garlic, togethor with an 0 ice of good curry-powder, and a’ tea- epeonfel of salt. Fry a sliced onion in butter till quite brown, take out the pieces, and ‘with the hot butter mix the above ingredients, adding a gill of stock and another of cream. Put in the chicken, and simmer till done. Time to stew the chicken, half-an hour. Probabie eost, [8s. Sufficient for two persons. fete Indian Devil Mixture.—To ‘a' table. spoonful each of vinegar, ketchup, and chutney- paste add an, ounce of dissolved, butter, a dessert-spgonful of made mustard, salt. and a small cup of good.rich. gravy. Blend these ingredients thoroughly, and rub them into the meat. Make all hot together slowly, Time, ten minutes to make hot. — ‘Indian Dish of Fowl (see''Fowl,’ Int dian Dish of). 4 : aM PA Indian Fagadu.—Pick the meat from a lobster and a pint of shrimps, cut it into small bits, and season, it with an onion, anda clove of garlic, shred finely, and,some, cayenne and salt, Prepare some spinach a@ for boiling—put it inte a stewpan in the usual way, without water— add the lobster, and stew gently with an onion or two sliced, and ‘previously fried’ in butte: keeping thé’lid closed: for sore ‘time. ‘When nearly done, stir the contents over the ‘fire ‘to absorb thé moisture,’ and when quite dry, squeeze in some lemon-juice. Probable cost, 38: 6d. ‘Indian Fritters.—Put three table- spoonfuls of flour into ‘a basin, and mix it toa stiff paste with boiling water. Stir briskly; and beat the batter well or it will not be smooth. Break into the basin two eggs with their whites, and two more yolks without the whites; the batter must be cool before they are‘put to it, and when beaten well together ‘with a wooden spoon should have the frothed whites of two eggs added justi before ‘frying. Drop the batter from a'spoon into boiling lard. The fritters will rise very high, and only’ require-a little batter; a dessert-spoonful is quite sufficient i Preserve or mar- malade'is served ‘between ‘the fritters: Time, six to eight minutes to fry. - Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of preserve. Sufficient ‘for four or five persotis. 9" bea any oP nF ale 2 es pista: faiayt, : ; Indian Gingerbread.—Pyt a small tea- cupful of, water into a saucepan, and stir well ini it, over 4 slow fire, three-quarters of » pound of pounded sugar and’ four ounces of butter until they are dissolved; then work the mixture IND into one pound of good dry flour spiced with pounded ginger, cinnamon, and cloves—two ounces of ginger to half an ounce of cinnamon and cloves mixed. Bake on tins, either in nuts orcakes. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. PE eS Indian Griddle Cake.—To one quart of new milk.add as much flour ag will make a ! thick. batter. Mix with the. milk two eggs well beaten before the mixing, and with, the flour a little salt. Rub butter over a hot. griddle; drop the batter from a table-spoon on to it, and: bake at once. :. ot Indian Le Bon’ Diable:—Make deep scores in the meat to be devilled. If of'poultry, the drumsticks, gizzard, arid rump are the best’ for this savoury dish. It is usually prepared at table to suit the palates of the consumers, and from thence sent: to the cook to broil. Powder every part with a, mixture of the fol- lowing’ ingredients:—Of salt, cayenne, and curry-powder, equal quantities, and a double quantity of mushroom, or: truffle powder. Heat some of the. gravy from, the dishes com- posing the grill, and when boiling hot pour it over witha little lomon-juice.,; -. os ‘Indian Maize:—Take Indian corn-pods when about ‘as large as radishes. Put them into an earthenware jar, and cover them with boiling vinegar. Interspersé bay-leaves mode- rately, and a little ;basilicum. crumbled. up: or throw the young earsinto a saucepan.of boiling salted water for two or three minutes—just time enough to restore the water to the boil— and then drain. Boil bay-leaves, chili-pods or capsicums, shallots, and a small bit of garlic in vinegar. Pour the vinegar when cold over the corn-ears, sprinkling mustard-seed plentifully over the top of the jar. Cover the’ jars with bladder, and keep them in’ a cool place. . .Indian Meal, Batter Cakes of' (see Batter Cakes of Indian Meal). a Indiax Meal Fritters.—Make a batter as for other fritters with four or five table- spoonfuls of meal, a pint of warm milk, and four :well-beaten eggs. Drop.,the batter into boiling lard from a ladle; have plenty in the pan. Keep each fritter, separate, and serve, after drying before.;the fire, as quickly as pos- sible, that they may not-cool. Time, ten to twelve:minutes ‘to fry. ‘ : Indian Meal Johnny Cakes.—Make into a firm dough ond! quart of Indian meal, using as much warm water as may be required, and a little salt. Scoop out some of the meal from the centre, pour, in the water, and mix in the usual way. Knead the dough, and roll it to about an inch in thickness. Lay the cake ona well-buttered griddle ‘over a clear brisk fire, and toast it on both sides. When done, serve at'once, split and buttered. This is a favourite American cake, eaten with fried pork. Indian Meal, Loaf Cake of (see Loaf Cake, &c.) os prey ait Indian Meal Mush.—A popular and substantial article of American food, prepared like the Irish stirabout or Scotch porridge. It requires longer boiling and more careful mixing ( 326 ) i ‘than oatmeal. IND The meal should be mixed ‘with. boiling water or ‘milk' gradually, and‘ stirred! rapidly between eaeh ‘handful to prevent:it from lumping. It requires long boiling, and when boiled is served with salt, sugar, and milk separately ; or it may be put into a well- buttered’ basin and served, turned out. while still warm.’ A half pint of Indian’ meal , , mixed with a ‘quart ‘of boiling milk: will make a good ptidding, with ‘the addition of! an egg,'two ounces of butter melted and stirred in, somé pounded sugar, a little salt, nutmeg, and ginger. Bake in a well-buttered' dish. The yellow, corn-meal is the richest. -For a boiled suet pudding mix flour with the suet when chopped, or it will. not separate cqually , but become massed together: Moisten with milk, and knead and beat the dough, which should be firm, with the rolling-pin to make it light, Make into dumplings of the size of a, large apple, and boil them separately tied up, in cloths ‘loosely to give room for swelling. The much- approved polenta: is made with partly-cooked ‘mush turned into a, well-buttered , shallow baking-dish, and mixed up with grated. cheese ;. to'be baked from. fifteen to twenty minutes half a pound of mush to two ounces of. grated cheese.: To bake pudding, two hours; boil, one hour and a, half. ' ' ayes Indian Muffins.—Take one quart of. yellow corn meal, and stir boiling water into it to'make a thick batter. When cool add two ounces of ‘butter, alittle sdlt,; and two eggs. _Bake at once in small: cakes on a.griddle, and when one side is brown turn the: cakes. over. If liked, add a tca-spoonful of yeast, and make into a dough of soft corisistence, which should be covered up ina warm place to rise. Bake in rings as soon as risen. The dough will take about two hours to rise... Sufficient, one muffin toeach person, 2 0) i Indian Mullagatawny Soup.— For this favourite Indian soup take a couple of chickens, ‘a large fowl, 4 kniickle of veal, or a calf’s head, with the trimmings, bones, ‘and gristles of the breast of'véal. “Make a good strong stock; this must be carefully attended to. Cut thé ‘meat’ into pieces—mouthfuls—or the fowl into small joints, and simmer gently in about, half a gallon of water. Fry six middle- sized onions and a couple of cloves of garlic shred fine, in two ounces of butter. Pound and mix well together an ounce,of coriander seed, a quarter of an ounce each of chives, turmeri¢ and cassia, two drachms of cayenne, and rather more of black pepper. Put these ingredients with two large spoonfuls of rice flour into a basin, mix them with some of the broth the meat has been boiled in, and strain to the. rest. Simmer until the soup is about the thickness of cream. Before taking it off the fire add the Juice ofa lemon to flavour it. Some people use sour apples or other acids in mullagatawny, but the lemon-juice is preferable. Serve the meat in the soup and boiled rice separately: out lemons on a plate. Time, simmer from two to three’ hours. Probable cost, 2s. per quart. Sufficient for eight persons. eae) = Indian Mustard.—To a mixture of mus- tard and flour in equal quantities, rubbed ito'a Bho h IND ( 327 ) IND smooth: stiff paste. with. boiling water, .add.a. little salt, and reducé the thickness asfollows:— Boil down four shallots, shred finely, with» wine-glass. each .of vinegar and,, mushroom, ketchup, and half a glass of anchovy sauce,, In ten minutes pour these ingredients, boiling hot, into the basin .over the mustard, and. flour mixture; .stirting. until it is smooth and of the proper consistency. Put a shallot, bruised, into each bottle when stored. Indian, mustard will keep for some time, and is excellent,as a break- fast relish. Time, ten minutes to boil, Suffi- cient for a quarter of a:pound of mustard. ., . Indian Omelet (see Omelet, Indian): ‘Indian Oysters, Curried :—Cutia large. onion, or two middle-sized ones, into thin slices,! and fry them in butter until brown: . Dredge into the pan four dessert-spoonfuls of curry- powder, and stir in' two more ounces of - butter. ‘When the mixture is quite smooth, thiniit with half a pint of good warm broth, and keep it' stirred until it boils. | Put it into a clean stew- pan with the white part of a finely-grated cocoa-nut and a minced: sour apple, when it must''be again made to boil. Stir until. the apple is dissolved and the'cocoa-nut.is tender, then mix a little flour and water as thickening, and when thick add the oysters (a- hundred, carefully bearded, with. thei liquor strained), also:the milk of:the cocoa-nut, if.sweet. Sim- mer until the oysters are hot. iServe.on.a hot dish, with boiled-rice.in another.;. Time, twenty-five minutes to make, curry ; one minute to stew oysters. : | Indian Oysters, Curried (another way). -—See Oysters, Curried, Indian. ae Indian Pancake.—Boil half a tea-cupful of-tiee in milk and beat it to a pulp, add it to heen Un Pay r three eges well beaten, sweeten with sugar.and | flavour with pounded cinnamon. fry FBp whole of the mixture in butter. o not turn’ the pancake, but,:when done on one side remove from the pan, to the front of the fire to brown the, upper side. , Strew pounded sugar over, and divide the pancake into four parts before sending it to table. Time, seven, or. eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d. Indian Pickle.—Place in a large dish a white cabbage cut into eight divisions, half a pound ‘of, small branches of cauliflower, equal quantities of gherkins, French beans, radish- ods, arid small onions, also! nasturtiums, capsi- ums, chilies, and any other suitable vegetables. Powder them well with salt, and let them remain fot addy or ‘two: Drain dry, and put: thom into a jar, with sufficient vinegar to cover: the vinegar, having been previously boiled, should be poured into the jar cold:' Be careful'to let the vinegar cover the vegetables, or the pickle will not keep, and to mix' the spice equally among the végetables before the vinegar- is poured over them: Use spice as follows—the quantity given is for a gallon of vinegar-—three ounces of ginger sliced, the same old black.and long pepper mixed, twonty shallots, peeled, one clove of garlic, or more if the flavour is not objected to, a quarter of an ounce of cayenne, & quarter of a, pound of flour of mustard, two ounces. of, salt, an ounce of turmeric, and two ‘ounces of mustard-seed. Jruit, such as green grapes, codling apples, &c., may be added at any time as they appear in season; but the ‘proportions of , spice and vinegar must he attended to, and any addition to the jar, should _be first soaked an hour or two in vinegar ’ before being ‘added. ‘When no’ more:additions are to be made, put the pickles ‘into ismall jars, boil the’ 'vinegar, pour it at’.once over) the: pickles so as to cover them, andj when. cold, tie down with bladder. If the above ‘directions are attended to this pickle may be kept’ good many years. When more spice and vinegar are required, mix the spice with.a little of the cold vinegar first, and then boil it. “When boiled, pour it hot over the pickles. Indian Pickle (another way):—Cut two cauliflowers and two firm cabbagesinto quarters,. sprinkle them well with:salt, and ‘let. them lie in the sun for three days. Soak one pound of ginger with two cloves’of garlic in salt and water for one day, drain, and dry them also in _the'sun. When all is ready, put the vegetables into a large stone jar, and add one gallon. of vinegar, twelve ounces of crushed peppercorns, _ one pint of powdered 'or bruised! mustard-seed, and, two. ounces, of. turmeric... Cover the jar tightly with bladders, and in six, months, if the above directions. have been, attended, to, the pickle will be. fit for use... - Indian Pickle Sauce.—Fry ‘an onion until brown in butter, remove it. from the stew- pan, and ‘stir’ ina dessert-spoonful ‘of carry- powder, arid'a table-spdonful of pickle vinegar. Strain and add the sauce to a quarter of a pint of rich mélted butter, ‘Cut. pickles into dice, and serve them in the sauce. Indian Pilau (see Pilau,, Indian). Indian. Pilau,. Plain.—Cut a fowl into. neat pieces, remove the skin, and fry them in a stewpan, with four or five ounces of butter. Take out the fowl, and mix in a table- spoonful of curry-powder, a little salt, and some Indian pickles cut into fine ‘strips; mangoes, however, are’ preferable, if they are at hand. Return the cut-up fowl to the pan and set the whole to stew very leisurely by theside of the fire: for ‘three-quarters of an hour. | Have ready ‘about 'a pound of well-boiled rice: it should be'dry, so that'the grains may separate one from the other. Pile it‘high in.the middle of ajdish,.on which arrange the fowl, and serve with the sauce poured on the top and round the dish, Sufficient for three or four persons., Pro- bable cost, 48. 3d... een? Indian Pilau, Real.—Boil a fowl ora piece of meat (about three pounds of veal. will do), and reserve the liquor in which it is boiled. Put four ounces of butter into a.istewpan, slice acouple of onions, and fry these} with a fewloves and a small bit of cinnamon; until the onions are slightly coloured, then stir in three-quarters ofa pound of,ricge., Stir pith, 9 fork, until the rice has-imbibed the butter, when pour in jhe reserved liquor from, the fowl, and enough veal broth to'reach two inches above the rice; keep it over'a gentle fire until rather tender. © Clear the ricé a little from the centre, and place the 4 " IND fowl in the hollow. ,, Stew the rice thoroughly until the moisture is well dried up. Then place the fowl or méat in a deep dish, ‘dnd smother it with the rice.‘ Have ready some small onions boiled; make a garnish of these and hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. Arrange blanched almonds, raisins, and’ a: few ‘cloves with them,’ Time’ to boil the fowl, about: an hour. Probable cost of fowl, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons, Boake “Ts Indian. Pooloot.—Truss a fowl in the ordinary ,way for boiling. Have ready a quart of stock, and a pound of rice that has been par- boiled for five minutes and then drained from the water. Put, the fowl with them into a stewpan overa slow fire. Add some onion- juice (pound half a dozen, and extract all their moisture by squeediny theni in a thin cloth), a table-spoonful of ground ginger tied in a muslin, and the juice of alemon. When the fowl is sufficiently done, keep’ it warm, and dry the rite before the fire. Have ready three or four onions, sliced and nicely friéd in butter. | Cut up the fowl into neat pieces, and' fry ‘these in the same butter, then‘ pile 'the rice in the centre of a dish; the joints of fowlon the tor, and the ‘sliced’ onions ‘next the fowl lightly scatteréd. ‘Strew stewed cardamoms and pep- percorns over all. ‘Garnish with fried curled bacon' and slices of hard-boiled eggs. Serve hot.’ Time to boil fowl, three+quarters of an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. : tal fits, Indian, Pudding.—Beat up, five eggs with a quarter of a pound of butter, and a ‘rambled penny ‘spongécake. | Boil, but’ first grate, a cocoa-nut, putting aside all the brown part, in a pint of milk. In ten minutes set the milk to cool, and when sufficiently cooled stir it into the eggs, then put all into a dish previously lined with puff paste, and bake from a half to three-quarters of an hour in @ moderate oven. Probable cost, about 1s, 6d. Sufficient’ for seven or cight persons. Indian Pudding (another way).—Butter a pudding-mould, and place.on the inside. pieces of preserved ginger, cut into nice tasteful forms. Lay slices of spongecake in a bow], and pour over them a pint of boiling cream, into which, ‘when well soaked, beat sugar enough to sweeten (say about two ounces), and half a dozen well- whisked eges. Beat the mixture, and fill the ‘buttered basin. The pudding may be steamed ‘or boiled from three-quarters of an hour to an hour, or till firm. The syrup from the ginger is usually served warmed ‘up as sauce. Turn out the pudding, and send it hot to table, with the sauce poured over it. Probable cost, exclu- sive of ginger, 2s. 4d. The above ingredients are sufficient for four small sponge cakes. _ Indian Pudding (another way).—Line -@ pie-dish with some good, puff paste, and put an edging of the same round the rim. Place a layer of sliced apples, at the bottom, on the paste, add a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and sugar to taste. Next whisk ten eggs, with half a pint of red wine, and at the same time place three French rolls; cut in slices, to soak in a pint of rich cream; add this with the eggs to the ingredients already in the dish, and bake ( 328 ) IND the pudding from thitty to ‘forty minutes. Probable cost,-3s. 6d. Sufficient for seven’ or eight persons. "' , RAMEN . etl Indian Pudding, Baked.—Stir a quart of boiling milk, into a. pint of Indian comm meal. Dissolve four ounces,of butter by heating it before, the fire, mix it first with a pint of molasses, and then, very, gradually, with the meal. . Flayour with nutmeg and grated lemon- rind or cinnamon, and, as soon as the mixture has cooled, add, stirring briskly, six well-beaten eggs. Butter a dish, and bake at onee,,, Time, two hours to bake. Probable’ cost, 1s. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons, «© art! Indian Pudding, Cheap.—Take half ‘a P) q pint of meal (let it be -yellow_—it is the richest), and a quart. of new milk, into which put, when boiling, a little salt, nutmeg, and ginger. Stir it into the milk gradually, and keep beating it briskly all the time. When smooth, and the heat gone off, beat up an egg with two ounces ‘of pounded sugar, and add it, with two ounces of finely-shred suet, to the mixture. J ake in a moderate oyen. Butter may be used in the place of suet. Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for four or five persons, Indian Salad.—Cut. the. meat.jof .a lobster, or of a crab’s claws, into pieces, and slice a couple of cucumbers, with two chilies, a Spanish onion, if Jiked, and two rennets. The seéds of the fruit should be removed, and the whole seasoned with pepper‘and salt. Put into the bowl two spoonfuls of vinegar, a little cape and three spoonfuls of the best Lucca- oil. : : att . Pisin Indian Sauce.—Boil’ together for five minutes, in a small quantity of stock, a tea- apoonful of anchovy sauce, a bit of glaze the size of a walnut, a table-spoonful of curry- paste, and a pinch of cayenne. Mix. with the above half a pint of tomato pulp, boil up, and serve. Indian Trifie.—Mix six ouhees of tice flour with cold milk enough'to make.a thickish paste. Puta quart of new milk into « sauce- pan with the rind of a smali lemon,’ and ‘four ounces of sugar to sweeten." Simmer gently, to extract the lemon ‘flavour (do this ‘over a slow fire, and remove the rind as soon as the flavour is gained) ;,add the rice and stir till the mixture leaves the sides.of the pan, A few drops of the essence of ratafia or,vanilla ig a great improve- ment. If for a glass dish, tet the trifle cool a little before turning out, and when quite firm and cold, cut out some of the rice, and introduce boiled custard into the space. This has @ very good effect, when some, fancy device is shown. Cut an ounce of swect almonds (blanched) into rs and stick them thickly over the top. larnish the dish with any preserved fruit ot pieces of fruit jelly of a rich bright colour. Time, a quarter of an hour to twenty minutes to simmer milk, a. few minutes to boil the rice. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for one trifle... Indian Veal Collops.—Mix' a small cupful of grated bread-crumbs with a dessert- spoonful, or rather’ more, of curry-powder, pepper, and salt. Cut two pounds of véal from the fillet, and make colldps of a round shape, about, three inches across,. Beatythem well, and smear, them with the -yolk of egg. il ee the collops with the bread-crumbs and curry-powder, They should bp thckyy incrusted with crumbs, and ‘will requiré‘to be again saturated ‘with the egg-yolk. Dip them into it this’ time, “and powder well’ with the bread-crumbs. Fry in ? nity of buttér, and make'a satice with more ‘butter, a little curry-powder, ‘and’ some good | gravy. ‘Thicken with flour, and: add'the juice (Strained). of & lemon. Boil, ‘and serve round | the. collops.“ ‘Time, twenty minutes"'to fry. ‘Pybvable cost, 3s, Sufficient for atl ‘entrée, ~ Ingoldsby-.: Christmas, .Pudding.— Take, of. stoned raisins, well-waghed currants, | and finely-shred suet, each one pound; ‘of flour @nd.,stale grated bread-crumbs, mixed, ‘one pound; and one pound of sifted sugar.” Put q ese. , Ingredients into, a large bowl with a quarter of jan ounce each of caridied peel, cut into bits, and mixed spice, the grated rind of a lemon, and a’ small nutmeg. Moisten with el cht eggs, strained and well beaten, and two ‘glasses of brandy or rum. This quantity will | make two good-sized puddings, enough for six . persons. ‘ime, six hours and a half for the whole quantity, four hours for half. Probable cost; 3s].4d., exclusive of the:brandy. ., - Inky-pinky.—Cut slices: of under-done roast beef about half an inch thick, and remove the skin and gristle. Boil these trimmings for two hours with the bones, chopped small, until a strong gravy is‘obtained. Add it to what. ever jay,have peen, left from the roasting of the previous day, and strain into 4’clean stew- pan, in which simmer the slices of meat, cold boiled carrot, and an onion cut into"qudtters. Do tot allow it to boil, or the meat will be tough: Add pepper and’ salt, and''a' little vinegar or. .kefchup, thicken the “gravy with flour, and serve véry hot with sippets of toasted bread. “Time'to'simmer, twenty miziutes: | AES ~iListitution Cup ‘(an American ,dvink).— . Cut an orange into sligess| pour) over, these, a glassof brandy, and add a pint of champagne, a gill each of strawberry and pine-apple syrup, and a, tumbler of ice, in shaves. These ingre- dients should, be well mixed and strained into! tumblers. bei ag “ Invalid’s Cutlet.—Get a cutlet from the loin. or neck of well-fed, fat mutton, but cut away all the fat, and leave nothing but the lean, which put into a stewpan, with just enough water to cover it and 4 very little salt. Stew gently, and add a small quanyty. of celery cut into thiti shavings. Carefully skim off any fat that, may appear of the top, and when it has stewed about two hours without boiling, the jheat will be casy of digestion. Add pepper Pagar to taste.’ Time''to stew celery, thirty to thirty-five minutes. % a - Invalid’s Lemonade.—Putabout halfof a sliced lemon, :pared and divested of the inner skin or pith, with the parings, and an. ounce or two. of lump sugar, into 4 jug, net pour boiling water, over, these ingredients, and cover closely. , ‘In. two hours strain for use.,.To the above uantity of,Jemon add a pint of water, which ( 329) ABI will make a refreshing lemonade, Probable cost, 2d. Sufficient for a pint.”' nt oity ay ian : Invalid’s Soup.—Split a calf’s foot, and cut a pound of good, lean, juicy beef, and a pound of lean mutton; into small pieces. Put them, together with half a gallon of water, into an earthenware jar, and bake in, a slow. oven. from six: to ‘seven: hours, adding another quart of water, a small tea-spoonful of whole allspice; and a leaf or two of sage, when ,the, mixture has been stewing three or four hours. When the soup is reduced, to half the quantity, strain through a sieve, and, when cold and ‘a jelly, remove the fat. ‘This soup may be'taken cold, or warmed up with a little vermicelli, ‘ana pepper and salt to taste. Probable cost, 2s. 1d. uificient for three pints. AYES . Irish Black Pudding.—This pudding is excellent cut into thick slices when cold, and broiled, over a, clear fire, or warmed in an, oyen. If soserved.up it should only be boiled,an hour, butpwill require longer time if,eaten hot. .To a pound of good beef suet, chopped very fine, half a pound of bread-crumbs, and the same of. well- washed. currants, add four ounces, of pounded sweet almonds,.a tea-spoonful of, cinnamon, nut~ meg, and. cloves, in powder,, some, candied peel, and enough loaf,sugar to, sweeten. Separate the, yolks fromthe whites of four eggs, beat the yolks, and. moisten,:the above ingredients with them stirred, into.,the, mixture with a pint of cream, anda; glass of brandy. Lastly, put in the frothed whites of two eggs and boilina cloth. ° Sufficient for five or'six persons..\ | Irish Brade Breachd.—To a quartern of flour rub in lightly a quarter of ‘a pound of butter, melted. Mix it in an earthenware pan to. a,dough, with three table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast, and. warm ,water enough to maké the dough firm, then put it in a warm place, covered with a cloth, to rise, and, when sufficiently risen, add. the following ingredients :—Of currants, well washed and dried, stoned raisins, and finely- powdered sugar, each a quarter of a pound; ‘some ‘candied peel; cut into strips; half a large nutmeg, grated, and some: blanched: sweet al- monds, chopped.’ Make into loaves and bake.. Trish Brade Breachd (another way).— Get dough frem the baker, and let. it rise. in a. coed pan ‘before the fire, then heat the butter toa cream, and warm the milk, about a quarter of a pint, ;slightly, add it with the other ingredients, and knead well for a few minutes. Cake-tins should be buttered, and only half filled: Put them in a warm place to rise; before being put into the oven. .Time, from an. hour and: three-quarters to two hours. * Probable cost, 1s. 64, Suificient fora loaf. Trish ‘Cake.~Put:a pound of good.fresh butter into a large bowl, and turn it back to a \ ‘cream with’ the hand. When well turned, beat into it three-quarters of a pound of dried sugar, finely sifted and’ made’ hot before’ the fire. Separate the yolks from the whites of nine eggs, and, when well beaten, stir in the yolks, keeping the hand moved round in the ‘same’ direction for about twenty minutes, when’ dredge in by degrees a pound ‘and”'a'quarter of dry flour, ‘mixing well, as before, for another ' twenty TRI ( 330) » TRI minutes. Add four ounces of ‘blanched. almonds, sliced, the same of candied peel, one pound or more ‘of well-washed and dried currants, a glass of brandy, and, lastly, stir in gently the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Bake in a hot:oven and in a round buttered tin... Time, an hour and a half to two ‘hours. Probable cost, 3s.10d. Sufficient for 'two.cakes. . Irish Griddle Cake.—To every three pounds of flour allow a tea-spoonful of car- bonate of soda and a little salt. Mix the carbonate of soda with some sweet buttermilk —about three breakfast-cupfuls. » Make:it into a stiff paste. Roll it until smooth, and turn it upon the griddle often, to preyent. burning. Time, according to size. pa $08 Irish Luncheon Cakes.— Mix two pounds of dried flour with a quarter of.a pound of powdered sugar and a tea-spoonful of salt, Rub into the flour.a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and add half a pound of..clean. currants,’an ounce of candied peel, and a tea- spoonful of carbonate: of soda: Mix these ingredients with, the whites of four eggs whisked to a stiff froth, and as much buttermilk as will make the dough of a moderate firmness. Half. fill buttered tins, and’ bake in a tolerably quick oven to a light brown. Time, one hour to bake.. Probable cost, 1s. Gd. Sufficient for two calres. Irish, Moss.—One ounce of selected ‘Irish moss should be well washed, and then soaked in a quarter of a pint of cold water for three or four hours. Adda pint of cold milk or milk and water, boil for a few minutes, strain through fine muslin, and set aside to cool. Irish Moss may be flavourcd with cinnamon, sugar, and lemon, or vanilla. It will set a firm jelly. It is not much used, gelatine being so cheap, and less troublesome. © Irish Pancakes.—Beat eight eggs, sepa- rating the yolks from the whites. Warm a pint of cream in a rather large stewpan, over a slow fire; strain, and stir the beaten yolks to the cream and three ounces of butter, previously, melted; add two ounces of pounded sugar, and dredge in six ounces of flour. When mixed quite smooth, stir into the batter grated nutmeg and, lemon-peel,, with the frothed whites of four eggs. Fry in butter. Pour only enough batter in the pan to make a thin pancake, and, when. done, serve the pancakes hot, piled one on another, in a hot’ dish. Time, about five, minutes to fry. ,, Probable, cost, 2s. 6d. Suffi- cient for five or six persons. , ‘ Irish Pancakes (another way).—Mix a pint of cream with half a dozen fresh eggs,’ ‘beaten and strained. Add a glass of sherry, two or three ounces of butter, melted, some pounded cinnamon, and nutmeg, grated, a quarter of a pound of white sugar, and flour sufficient to make an ordinary batter. Rub. butter over a clean pan, and, when the batter is quite smooth, drop in the quantity to make a thin pancake. Powder the pancakes well with sugar, and serve them piled one on the other, or fold them with a layer, of. apricot marma- jade between. A cut lemon,is the usual ac- eompaniment. Time, about five minutes. 3 Trish Puffs.—Make a light batter with a, table-spoonfu}; of. flour, half a tea-spoonful of , salt, and five well-beaten yolks of eggs., Add nearly an ounce of, melted ‘butter, and atir,into the batter half a pint of, cream and the frothed | whites of the eggs. Beat-the batter before adding the cream, &c., for ‘neatly fifteen, minutes. Bake in buttered cups. “Lime, about fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for six cups.’ _ © { Trish Rock.—A sweet for, dessert, com- , posed of almonds, sugar, and butter pounded together, and, moulded into an, egg-like shape. Jt has a.very pretty appearance when arranged to contrast, with green sweetmeats and bright- coloured, preserved fruits. Wash the salt from _ half a pound of ‘butter, and beat into it.a’ quarter of a pound of finely-powdered sugar; an IRISH ROOK. +. of Thies rare GM My BV hag ; blanch’ a pound of sweet almonds’ and an ounce of ‘bitter. Pound these in a mortar, reserving enough of the sweet almonds:to spike for ornamenting the dish when sent to! table; add'the butter and sugar, with about a quarter of a glass of brandy, and pound until smooth and white, when, after having become firm, it: may be shaped with a couple of spoons. It! should be placed ‘high on a glass dish witha decoration of green Sweetmeats, the. spiked: almonds, and a' sprig of myrtle.’ Garnish with’ any green fruits or sweetmeats. Irish Rolls.—Put a tea-spoonful of salt and halt a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda to two'pounds of flour, sweetened with about two tea-spoonfuls of finely-powdered sugar. Beat the whites of a couple of eggs to'a'froth, and make'a dough with them, adding ‘as’ much good sour buttermilk as will make an ordinary aste. Shape’ into cakes or rolls at once, and ake from fifteen to twenty minutés, according to size.' Sour milk may be used, but butter milk will make' the rolls richer. Probable cost; 1d. each. oe ey Trish Salmon Pickle,—Trim any part of salmon left-from dinner, or boil a nice hand- some piece.. Lay it in a deep dish, and, when cold, pour over it the following: pickle, also cold. (If closely covered and well pasted with the pickle the salmon will keep many days:— Boil together in half a pint of vinegar, a gill IRI ( 381 ) ISI. of watér; a ‘gill of white '4vine,! some ‘sliced horseradish, two blades of mace, two bay- leaves, whole pepper, allspice, and alittle salt. Let it‘ get’ cold,'and pour it over the fish. Time, ten minutes'to boil! of Irish Sandwiches.—Cut the mcat in very ' thin slices from partridges, grouse, or any gams' that has been roasted, and shred: some celery. Lay'thé meat on delicately thin fresh toast—it it should be crisp, and not tough—strew celery over, and season well with Tartar sauce. Serve in! ‘squares, and on a napkin. Trish Seed Cake.— Beat nine eggs, yolks and whites, until they are light, and turn eight ouncés of fresh butter to a cream, adding by: degrees a little rose-water until a quarter of ‘a’ pint has been used. pound of finely-powdered ‘sugar, ‘and add the beateneggs. Beatthe mixture, and dredge into it three-quarters of a pound of well-dried fleur and nearly a quarter of ‘a pound of rice flour. Flavour with essence of any kind liked,’ and scatter in an ounce of caraway-seeds and some pounded bitter almonds. Bake in a quick oven. ‘The baking-tin should be lined-with paper, and both tin and paper must be.well buttered. Time, an hour and a half to ‘bake.’ Probable cost, 2s. 4d. * ae ogy eee Trish Soup, or Balnamoon Skink.— In many parts of Ireland a good joint of meat | is a thing to be wished. for, but not'to be obtained:at short notice. Poultry.is always to be-had in plenty, and very cheap, hence, on an emergency, two or three fowls. may be expe- ditiously put into-a pot to boil until their juices are thoroughly extracted andthe broth is rich and good. One or more ‘of the fowls, if to be served separate, may be trussed as for boiling, and removed.as soon as done, but. they are best: cut up:when intended only for soup.: When well. boiled, strain ‘the soup through a colander inté a clean saucepan. Season with salt, pepper, sweet herbs, chives, and chopped young onions.. Add celery, lettuce, and, if in season, a few green pbas.; Stew until the vegetables are tender. A lidsion of two beaten eggs and a cup of cream will:greatly improve the soup. The trussed fowl. is sorhetimes served in the tureen with’ the soup. Wher sent to table separately, thicken some of the.broth, and pour it over the fowl. - ee tok Trish Stew.—Take from two to three pounds of chops from. the best end of a neck of mutton,,and pare, away nearly all the fat, for an Lrish Stew should not be greasy. If likeda portion of the breast maybe cut into squares and used, butaneck of mutton is the best joint for the purpose. , Takeas many potatoes as will amount, after peeling to twice the weight of the meat. Slice them, and slice, also eight large onions: . Put,a layer of mixed potatoes and onions at the bottom of a stewpan. meat on. this and season it plentifully with pepper’ und slightly with salt: ‘Pack the ingre- dients closely, and cover the meat with anothér Isyer of potato and dnion. Pour in as much water or stock as will moisten the topmost layer, cover the 'stewpar tightly, and’ Jet its contents | simmer géntly for three hours. Be cazveful not to: removethé lid, as this will let out the flavour. Mix ‘with the butter a | “well mixed, boil for two hours. lace the j. _cost; 1s. per pint. Trish Stew (another way).—Put some. neat chops, cut from the neck of mutton; into a stew-. pan; they should: be trimmed,.and' the \bones shortened a little. Braise them.for half an hour, and season with pepper, salt, and: a'few: chopped mushrooms. Butter a mould, and thickly line it with mashed potatoes; lay in thei chops, and bake. When done, turn out on a.hot dish, and pour in some good gravy through an opening on the top, Time, about half an hour to bake. Two dozen potatoes. will be. quite’ sufficient for this dish. | . oa we : dhe Trish Stew, Australian (see Australian- Irish Stew). 9: ea anck ' Trish Stew, ‘Kidney (see Kidney Irish. Stew). oe GD SE Sak ae Trish Tripe.Procure the tripe quite fresh, cut it neatly ‘into pieces two inches’ broad and four inches long, stew ‘them.for an hour in milk' and ‘water and: a little salt; add onions, and boil them until tender. Put the'tripe ona dish, thicken some’ of the sauce with flour and butter, arid mix in a little mustard and the onions, which:should be first'drained and beaten through a sieve.Make the sauce hot, and serve it poured ovér the tripe. It liked, a little lemons juice may ‘be added. Time, an hour to stew tripe alone; ‘about three-quarters ofan hour. ‘with ‘onions.'” Probable cost, 8d. per pound. irish Usquebagh Cordial.—Stone a pound df’ the best blue raisins, and rub off the rind of a Seville ordnge on lumps of ‘sugar.’ ‘Bruise the raisins in 4 mortar, with a ‘quarter’ of ah ounce each of cloves and cardamoms and a grated nutmeg. Put thesé' ingredients into a jar, and pour dvet, them half'a gallon of French brandy or flavourless whisky ; add the sugar and half a pound of sugar candy (brown), also a little colouring matter, tincture of saffron or “spinach-juice. Stir or'shaké the jar'every day. Time to infuse, two. weeks...’ 2 of Trish Walnut Ketchup.—Extract the inner ‘white part of some green walnuts, and, after pounding them thoroughly, strain off the juice to make it clear, let it stand for twelve hours, and strain again. Add ‘to each pint of juice a large onion, two ounces of horseradish, sliced, half, an ounce of shallots, a ‘clove of garlic, half @ pint of vinegar, and half a pound of anchovies. These ingredients. being’ When cold, strain the Hquor until quite clear, then add to gach pint of the ketchup, half an ounce of spice (mace, cloves, nutmeg, and whole black ‘pepper in equal quantities), two wine-glassfuls of port, and a quarter of a glassof soy. Boilagain for three-quarters of an hour, but do not strain, the liquor, as the spiccs must be distributed in ‘the several bottles in which it is placed. The saucepan must. always:be: kept closely, coveretl; or the delicious: aromatic: flavour will evaporate. Pour the ketchup into a jar, and cover till cold, when'it can be poured into bottles, ‘but the greatest attention must be paid to their being clean and dry. Seal the corks. Probable Isinglass and Gelatine Jelly.—When jelly is to be made’ for the table, isinglass and gelatine are frequently used instead of calf’ s-foot Ist ( 532 ) Isl stock, and possess the advantage f being.made much more easily and quickly. ’ From isinglass especially, many wholesome and agreeable dishes may be made. It is, however, difficult to give the exact proportions to be used, as isinglass differs'so much in quality. The best may be known by its dull-looking, hard skin, and by its requiring fully half an hour’s boiling to dis- solve it. The commoner kinds dissolve very quickly, and may be known by their white, fine appearance, When good isinglass is used one ounce will stiffen a pint and a half of jelly. Simmer the isinglass, until it, is thoroughly dissolved, in a pint of water. Just before it is taken from the fire, add 4 tea-spoonful of strained lemonejuice, a, table-spoonful of cold water, and alump of sugar. Let all boiltogether two or,three minutes, and remove the scum care- fully asitrises. Strain through a jelly-bag, add wine, lemon-juice, sugar, and flavouring.accord- ing to taste, and pour into a damp mould. Let the jelly remain in a cool place until it is firm, Gelatine is more frequently employed than isin- glass. Allow an ounce of gelatine for a pint,of liquid.. In :cold weather, or when using small moulds, more liquid may be taken... Soak the gelatine for an hour, pour boiling liqnid upon it, and stir it over the fire until.dissolyed. . Clarify with white of ege. (See, Calf’s Foot Jelly.) Isinglass Jelly, Constantia.— Dissolve an ounce of the best isinglass in a, pint of water. Put to it a quarter of a pound of. good loaf sugar, and part of the. rind of a, Seville orange, pared thin so.as to leave none of the white skin. Simmer over a slow: fire, add nearly a pint of Constantia, strain, through..a muslin, doubled three or four times, and mould when cool, care- fully keeping back any sediment. . Asa general rule moulds should be soaked in water some two or three hours before they are used. Time, about fifteen minutes to simmer. Probable cost, 1s. 4d., ‘exclusive of wine. Sufficient for two moulds. Isinglass Jelly, Cranberry.—Mix'4 quart of cranberry-juice with a pint of isinglass jelly and half a pound of loaf sugar, ‘boil it for five minutes, and, after straining, pour into amould. Instead of isinglass, this jelly is some- times made with ground rice as follows: Strain the juice of a quart of cranberries after they have been boiled; mix with it slowly enough ground rice to thicken it to the consistency of jelly; now boil it, taking care thatthe rice does not adhere to the bottom of the pan, add sugar to taste, pour into a mould, and, when cold. turn out on a glass dish. with a garnish of Devonshire cream. Probable cost'of isinglass, 1s. per ounce; ground rice, 3d. to 4d.’ per pound. Isinglass: Jelly, Currant and Rasp- berry .—Bruise in a jar two pounds of red and one pound of white, currants with a pint of red raspberries ; place the jar in boiling water to extract the juice.. Boil three-quarters of a pint of water, two ounces of,isinglass, and a pound of loaf sugar together, allow both the fruit juice, when strained, and the sweetened isinglass to cool, then mix equal quantities, pour into shapes and place the jelly in ice. Probable cost of isinglass, 1s. per ounce. | See Lanes Jelly, Fruit (see Fruit Isin- glass Jelly). Isinglass Jelly, Grape (see Grape Tsin glass Jelly). : hte, ae oa Isinglass Jelly (Ixvatrp CooxEry).—A pleasant and nourishing jelly-is made by bo: isinglass shavings and a portion of the brown crust of a loaf seasoned with’ Jamaica peppers. To an ounce of the shavings and a quart:of boiling water, add a tea-spoonful of Jamaica peppers, and the bread-crust, which should be brown, but not'black.’ Boil until it has ‘wasted a pint. This jelly will remain good for ‘some time. A spoonful may be put into soup, ted, or any other bevérage.' Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Isinglass Jelly, Lemon.—Peel the rind of two lemons, without any of the white inner skin, and put it into an ounce and a half of isinglass clarified’ in a pint’ of water,/dnd sweetened according to taste-+say with half a pound’ of loaf sugar.’ Strain’ the: juice" of four large lemons, and pour it ‘gently into the isinglass when cool. Pour it at once (the lemon-rind must be taken out, but the liquid need not be strained) into small moulds, or into one large one, and cover'with ice broken small. This jelly may be made from calf’s- foot stock. Put to each pint the juice of three lemons. Time, an hour to prepare. Probable ‘cost, 2s. ‘The above ingredients are sufficient for ‘a pint and a, half mould. up , Isinglass Jelly, Lemon. (another way). are, Lemon, Isinglass Jelly. aca 2 ‘Isinglass Jelly, Orange.—To the juice of éight fine sweet oranges and four Seville, well strained, add'.an ounce and a.half of isin- glass! dissolved in boiling water,.sweeten with six ounces of pounded’ loaf isugar, and stir: it gently over the fire, but do.not let it boil. Pour the jelly into earthenware, moulds when nearly cold, the moulds having been previously filled with cold water. Probable cost, 38. Isinglass Jelly, Orange (another way). =o Ra Ona Tenge J algae ( : 2 ‘Isinglass Jelly, Strawberry.—Takea quart of fine ripe scarlet strawberries, and pour over them a pint of water that has boiled for twenty minutes with three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar. ‘The next day, drain’ off. the syrup from the strawberries -without bruising them, and, to increase the fruity flavour, add a little lemon-juice and half a,pint. of red. currant juice. Clarify two ounces and ‘@ half of isin- glass in a pint of water, and, let it stand,till nearly cold, then mix it with' ‘thé ' fruit-juice and pour into moulds. It'is desirable to place the moulds in ice. Probable cost, 2s. 104., exclusive of fruit. eee ios Isinglass, To Clarify.— Allow one quart of fresh, water, the beaten white of an egg, and two table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, to cach quarter of a pound of isinglass; mix these ingre- dients thoroughly, and put them into & sauce- pan; take care that the isinglass does not burn at the bottom of the an, and remove the scum as‘it rises. Strain, and put asidé‘for use. The isin- glass should be quite clear. A number of excel- lent jellies may be made by extracting ‘the juice from fresh fruit and mixing ‘with it a little isinglass, without boiling. The flavour and colour are both better than when the juice is FST ( 333 j TTA boiled. “The best isinglass will require half ‘an hour's gentle boiling to dissolve it. ; i e _ Isle of Wight Cracknels.—Beat ‘well the yolks of four. eggs with two table-spoontuls of orange-Hower water, add the best, part of a smal] nutmeg.and a little salt to about a pound and three-quarters of fine flour, and make it into arstiff paste with the egg. Squeeze out all the milk trom .one. pound of fresh butter, which roll into the paste,.and, form into, cracknels. Throw. these into, fast-boiling water, and when done enough (this may be known when they float to the surface) plunge them ae cold water to harden, ' Bake on''tins‘as soon as dry. Pro- bable cost, 28. 6d. Italian Cream.—Put a pint of cream and milk, in equal parts, into a saucepan, with loaf sugar according to taste, and, the rind of a lemon,‘ reserving the juice. Keep it boiling slowly until the lemon has sufficiently flavoured, then strain it into a bowl, in order to mix freely the yolks.of:, four eggs already well beaten. Pour this mixture into a jug, and set the jug in boiling water. Take care: that, the contents do not boil; stir them till they become thick, when remove. the, cream from the fire, and when cool stir into it the lemon-juice andan ounce of dissolved isinglass. The cream must now be well whipped, and, if it is to be served in glasées,'drained on’a‘sieve, but if for @ mould fill the mould with the cream when’ whipped, and: set it ‘in avéold place (on ice if possible) to.set. Turn the cream out on a glass dish, and: ortiament with crystallised or preserved fruits. ' Time, from -five to eight minutes to stir‘in the jug. Probable cost, 2s. 6d: Suffi- cient for a pint and a half. vos _ Italian Cream (another way).—Stir into a pint of ‘thick cream the rinds of two lemons rubbed off on lumps of sugar, and as much more pounded -loaf sugar: as will sweeten: . Whisk up the cream with: the juice-of one lemon, straint an ounce or more of. dissolved isinglass +o it, and: beat: well -together., Flavour with noyan or curacoa, and fill. a--mould.,, Freeze, tarn out, and garnish with any kind of sweet- meats or preserved. fruits. Time, half an hour. Probable | cost 2s. 9d., exclusive of . liquors. Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. ; ‘Italian Cream (another way).— See Cream, an. : ; ae “'Ttalian Jelly.—This is made with any fruit jelly. Take. an. earthenware mould which has previously lain in cold water for two or three hours, fill it about ‘half-way up with jelly. When it is quite firm, place upon it’ a thick layer of stiff blancmange, cut to the size of the mould. Now fill 'up ‘with’ another fruit jelly néarly cold.’ ._ Italian, Macaroni Soup.—Drop three punces of macaroni into, boiling water, and ‘keep, it boiling for twenty minutes. Drain, ‘and. cut it into inch lengths, or’ it may be broken before being put into the water., Have ready two quarts of clear gravy soup, boiling hot, into which throw the macaroni, and simmer for about ten minutes. Serve with grated Par- mesan in dish. Probable cost, 'Is. to Is. 4d. per pound. Sufficient for eight persons. ” ‘may retain their delicate whiteness. ‘quantity. : i He “Italian Macaroons.—Blanch and pe-md eight ounces of sweet’ almonds (expose! the: ‘to the air for a day or two before, they are. required to be poutided) with a little orange-flower watcr, one pound of sifted sugar, and the frothed whites of three eggs. Smooth the ingredients by rubbing them well together, and add’véry gradually the frothed whites’ When the paste looks soft and smooth, drop it, in quan- tities about the size of a’ walnut, through a funnel onto some wattr-paper. Bake on the ordinary plate, in a rather slow oven, to a pale colour. A strip or two of almond should be stuck on the top of each macaroon befora baking. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to bake. _ Probable cost, 18. 8d. per pound. Italian Méringueés.—Boil'a pound of the finest lump sugar'in a pint of water. ‘When it has boiled long enough to whiten and become flaky as it drops from the spoon, scrape from the sides of the pan any sugar that may be adhering, and ‘stir in' six whites of eggs, which have been whisked:to the stiffest possible froth; do ‘this: very gradually and slowly, .at the same time mixing''the mass as briskly as possible to make it smooth. Continue to stir until'the mixture‘is firm enough to retain the shape of a tea-spoon, in which it is now to be moulded. Slip the meringues quickly off on paper, and harden in a gentle oven, that they Almonds aré'sometimes pounded, and-mixed with the eggs and'stigar. These are very'superior to the plain ‘moringues, but they will require more’ care in baking, and they will-take'a longer time ; they ‘should be‘ crisp, and only’ lightly browned. Blanch and pound the almonds.’ Time, twenty to thirty minutes. Probable ‘cost, 1s: for this hs i 1h sits ae eodeicrer lir Italian Pastes.—lItaly is famous. for its various kinds,of paste, the best being made from the small Sicilian wheat, which is harder, and contains more albumen than our northern wheats. Macaroni, lasagni, yermicelli, are all of the same paste, as are stars, rings, and other shapes. The-Genoesé paste is made of the finest and whitest flour, but evory,city has its paste manufactory. The Neapolitan is of slightly coarser flour, but when fresh is often preferred by cooks, as it is more speedily | dressed. The price of macaroni is now much less than formerly, the Neapolitan being only sixpence per pound, and Genoese. one shilling per pound. , There is a French paste manu- factory at, Grenoble, but the article it turns out is of inferior quality. In Italy, pastes of all’ kinds are’dréssed in fowl or’ veal stock for the better ‘tables,’ and in beef or other bouillon for the ordinary ones.’ Parmesan and Gruyére cheese accompany the dish; but in England, on account’ of the’ expense, home products, suchas Cheshire and Derbyshire, may be substituted. Genoa is famous for its’ravioli soup, one of the best macaroni soups sent’ to table. ‘ a dete Italian Pie.—Cut thin.slices of veal from the fillet, and prepare a careful seasoning of thyme, parsley, a couple of sage-leaves, pepper (white and cayenne), and salt. Cover the ITA _( 834 ) ITA bottom of the pie-dish with the meat, strew the seasoning over, and lay thin slices of 'ham, reviously dressed, upon the top.- Distribute orcemeat-balls throughout, “and fill up the dish with veal, ham, forcemeat-balls, ‘and ‘the yolks of hard-boiled eggs. _ Pour: in half a pint of rich white stock before baking, and a large cup of cream when the pies ready, for the table. Cover the dish with a puff paste, put an orna- ment in: the centre, which canbe removed, to put in the cream,.and bake in a quick oven. Two pounds of veal and five ounces of ham will make a,good pie. Time, an hour and a half to bake. The above quantities are sufficient for five or six persons. lea ee ee ee iq Italian Polenta.—This is an Italian and American dish, made from Indian corn-flour in America and Italy, but in England semolina is used for the purpose. Four ounces of this seed will thicken a quart of milk; ‘the semolinaiis stirred into it: when the milk is on the point of boiling, and simmered foriabout ten minutes after. Throw the polenta) into a dish to get cold; cut it into slices, powder it thickly with grated Parmesan, moisten it with oil or clarified butter, and bake. Serve quite hot, with more cheese on a separate dish. Time, half an hour to bake. . Probable cost, exclusive of cheese, 5d. aw _ Italian Polpetti.—Grate two ounces of Parmesan, cheese, and mince finely half.a pound of any cooked meat without fat; put these ingre- dients, together with a slice of ham or tongue, into astewpan ; adda quarter of a pint of Italian sauce and two small tea-spoonfuls of piquant sauce. , Stir over the fire, until well heated throughout, then take out the polpetti on a marble slab or large flat dish, spread the paste (for such it will. be) evenly to about a quarter of an inch thick, and let it get, cold, when it. is to be-cut into small cakes: with a tin cutter. These are now to be fried, egged, and bread- crumbed in boiling lard. Use up the fragments of paste, press them together, and cut ‘into cakes as before. Time, ten minutes to fry. © Italian Pork Cheese.—Season rather highly with salt, pepper, and herbs (sage, thyme, parsley, and sweet basil), about a pound of lean pork cut into small bits. Chop ‘finely a pound and a half of the inside fat of the pig, and mix :and press the ingredients together. Fill a shallow baking-tin, make the top. quite smooth, and bake slowly in a very quict oven, Serve cold in slices. Time, an hour or more. Probable cost, 2s.. Italian Potage (brown soup).—Take any young vegetables in season—turnips, carrots, celery, leeks, onions, &c. Slice three or four onions, and fry them in butter with two turnips, two carrots cut in ribbon-like strips, a head of celery, and the white part of ‘a leek in inch ‘Pieces. Stew gently in the butter, letting them colour slightly. Add good rich veal gravy, salt to taste, and serve, when the vege- tables are tender, on grilled crusts, previously moistened with a little of the gravy. Asparagus tops, green peas, and: young lettuces improve Hone potage. Time, fry until the vegetables are er. Italian’ Pudding.—Soak three ‘sliced French rolls in a pint of cream which has been boiled and sweetened. with Joaf sugar, Beat up eight eggs, and. add them to the soaked rolls when cool.,, Line a well-buttered, dish with puff paste, the: bottom of which fill with sliced apples, leaving enough of the dish empty to hold the cream. Strew sugar and some sliced candied peel on the top of the: apples, add a glass of red wine, and, lastly, the cream. Edge the dish with some of the puff paste, and bake in a rather quick oven. Time, about half anhour. Probable cost,3s.; Sufficient, for five or-six persons. s,s sa Sel “Bo! Acts Italian Pudding, Boiled.—Get two stale rolls, grate the crumb. into a pint of milk, and boil it’ very; carefully for ten minutes. Throw it into a basin to’ cool. Meanwhile, beat the. yolks of three eggs, add them, with nearly half a pound of pounded sugar, a flavour- ing of vanilla, a few currants or Malaga raisins, and, lastly, the whites of the:eggs whisked to ‘a firm froth, This pudding should be steamed. Pour the mixture into a well-buttered basin, tie it down, and set it in.a saucepan with boiling water reaching to half the height of the basin. ‘Keep it boiling an hour, and serve with wine, brandy, or rum sauce poured over it. Pro- bable cost, 1s. 4d. ‘Sufficient for four or five persons... . “ L? ' Italian Pyramid.—Cut from good puff paste, rolled out rather thick, as many circular pieces as will be required for the desired 'height of the pyramid. Tin cutters are best for ‘the _purpose, but almost any article of a circular form may be substituted for the tin cutter. The sizés, the largest of which is the base, decrease from it, gradually tapering to the top. Pile thé pieces one on the other after they are baked, placing round the edges’ preserve, marmalade, or jelly of any kind, but they must be baked separately on buttered ting over which is laid a buttered paper. The paste should be made ‘in the pro- portion of a pound of butter'to'a pound of flour, and nearly half a pint of water. ‘Pirhe, fifteen to twenty-five minutes to bake. Italian Roll.—Mix together half a pound of fine flour and from, four to five ounces of sifted sugar. Put into a clean saucepan half a pint of new milk and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; bring it to the boiling point, and stir in gradually the flour and sugar. Beat well four fresh’ eggs, add them with the grated rind of ‘a lemon, stirring until the mixture is thick like dough. Lay a piece of well-greased paper on a baking-sheet, spread the mixture on this about a quarter of an inch thick. ‘Bake till half done in the oven, spread jam on the paste, and bake again. Serve cold, whole or in slices of nearly an inch thick. Time, twenty to twenty-five minutes to bake. Probable cost, 1s. 2d., ‘exclusive of jam. Italian Rusks.—Slice a stale: Savoy biscuit and divide the slices into two pieces, -which bake in a slow oven until they are crisp and hard. Let them cool, and put them ina dry place, and in a close tin canister, to preserve their crispness, They should be a nice browh ITA - (886 ) Ivo when baked. - Probable :eost.18d,; per, dozen. Three cakes are.enough for one dozen rusks , ' ‘Italian Salad!—Italian’ salads comprise ‘every variety of vegatables; cooked or raw, arid meat’ or fish, though it’ must not be supposed ' that ‘'the' different ingredients ‘are. heaped to- ‘gether’ without due regard to ‘harmony. We give Wére one of the'bést salads':—Slice a couple of cold potatoes and'the half of a beetroot, and _tiix' theta with some boiled éelery and brussels ‘sprouts. Season with vinegar or Tartar sauce. Add any cold ‘meat''in small piecés, and serve as sdon'as mixed. “Place the’ nieat lightly’ in the bowl, and throw the salad mixture over. Crown: the whole with stoned olives. ' Italian. Salad (another way).—Pile the white meat of a chicken, picked trom ‘a cold one roastéd, boiled, or fricasseed;:in the. centre of a dish, and shred a little'lean' ham to distri- bute equally amongst it.. Veal also: may be used cut in véry thin slices about! the size of a shilling. Surround the meat with a wall‘of young crisp’ lettuces,'small ctess, or any salad vegetables in season. Boil some eggs hard, remove the yolks, and cut the whites into thin rings, which arrange in chains over the ‘top. Pour over the centre any salad_sauce, in which cream ‘should predominate, and serve at once, that the salad-‘may not'get sodden. ~ i' | Italian Sandwiches.—Beat up the yolk of an egg with nearly a quarter of a pint of _cold water, and make with it into a stiff paste a quarter of a pound of baked flour, into which two, ounces of good , butter have been rubbed, an ounce and a half of sifted sugar, and_as much cinnamon as will lie on a2 shilling, Put this paste on a board and roll it out very: thin Gt should not be quite a quarter of an inch), ivide it into strips of an inch in width, and from three to four inches in length. . These strips must be first hardened. Put them ina. cool, well-ventilated place. In the meantime, prepare the following mixture :—Beat the whites of three eggs to a froth, with two ounces of, powdered loaf sugar. Blanch and pound two ounces of sweet and twelve bitter almonds, mix them with the egg-froth until it is a soft: smooth paste, when: spread half the strips of: -paste with the mixture, and cover’ with: the other half: Bake a pale brown. Time, four or five hours’ to. harden, sixteen to eighteen ‘minutes to bake. . Probable cost, 1s. 4d. “ Ttalian Sauce.—Fry six mushrooms and two shallots, finely minced, in an ounce of butter; when brown add a quarter of a pint of good stock, and half a pint of Spanish sauce. When ‘the latter is not at hand, take half a pint of stock, and a glass of champagne or other light wine. Probable cost, exclusive of ine, Is. Time ,to simmer, after the stock is added, twenty minutes. The above ingredients are sufficignt to fill a sauce tureen. ad Italian Sauce for Boiled Beef Beef, Boiled, Italian Sauce for).' cc Italian Sauce (Rouge’ et Blanche).— Put the following ingredients into a stewpan:— ‘Two ‘spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one ‘of “parsley, half a shallot, the same of bay-leaf; add pepper arid ‘sdlt to’ faste. ‘Stew them gently, by (sce i with just..enough espagnole.sauce to moisten them, and thin to a,proper consistency. with good strong broth;, Strain:for use. For sauce blanche, ‘moisten with.velouté in the place of espagnole. join) pen : _Italian Sauce, White (another way).— Chop three shallots, a bit of garlic as big ‘as'a pea, and as many button-mushrooms as will fill atable-spoon twice. Put them with a breakfast- cupful of stock into a stewpan, add'a large slice of ham; which 'should be minced, and simmer over a slow fire. In about half an hour adda ' quarter of a pint of béchamel; boil, and strain. ‘Season with salt, half a '‘tea-spoonful of sugar, the same of vinegar, and a: squeeze‘of lemon- juice... The probable cost will be about 10d. Sufficient fora dish. 7') 77°) Italian Steak.—Take two orthree pounds of steak from the rump or fillet—let it be quite an inch and a half im thickness. Brown it ina stewpan with two''or three ounces of butter, turning it frequently over a quick fire. When brown alike on both sides, remove the steak to a baking-pan, with a tight-fitting lid (earthen- ware pans are always used for this purpose on the Continent),:.and fry two medium-sizéd ‘onions, sliced, a shallot, minced, and: a bunch ‘of parsley in the same butter. Throw this over the steak in the pan. Add two large wine- glassfuls of port, and two breakfast-cupfuls of stock, with a root of celery cut: into pieces, two pickled gherkins, four or’ five cloves, a pinch of ‘tayenne pepper, and’ salt''to taste. ‘Cover down the lid tight, that no steam may escape, and let it bake in the oven ‘nearly an hour'and & half, when put ina turnip and a carrot, whole, and lose as before. If the roots are-young they will be done in‘ half an hour. Cut them into dice, and lay them over the" top of the steak, which should be placed on a hot dish. Send to table with the gravy: strained over. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. per‘pourid. . Italian Sweetmeat.—Dissolve a, pound and a quarter of loaf sugar in half a pint. of water. Boil it for fifteen minutes, adding when clear half. a wine-glassful .of - orange-flower water. ‘Take out a quarter of a pint of . the syrup to cool. Hold over the boiling sugar a gmall funnel and drop the. stirred yolks (not beaten) of sixteen eggs gradually through, so as to fall in balls; thesé when set must be taken out and drained. | Blanch and' pound to a paste twelve ounces of sweet and one ounce of bitter almonds, stir it into the boiling sugar, with two table-spoonfuls of brandy; simmer till the whole thickens, and rub through a sieve. Shred finely a quarter of a pound of pincapple, half the quantity of angelica, and six ounces of mixed candied peel; put these in layers with the almond paste and egg-balls into a buttered pie-dish, and pour over the top the whites of five eggs, beaten to a froth with the éold clarified sugar. Bake in a brisk oven, and turn out carefully. This sweetmeat is better eaten cold. Time to make, an hour. Probable cost, 48. pauls . Ivory Dust Jelly. (Invari .Cooxery). —Put a pound of ivory powder into three quarts of cold water. Place it on a gentle Ivo fire, or in the oven, and let it simmer slowly for .four or. five hours, until, the liquid, is reduced more than half. Put, it aside,:and wher. quite cold and stiff, lift, off, the jellied part, being careful to leave ‘the. sediment untouched, and proceed ag recommended for calf’s-foot jelly (sce Calf’s Foot Jelly). Ivory jelly is excellent for consumptive patients. Time, four or five hours to simmer the ivory dust. Probable cost, 10d. per, pound. The above ingredients are sufficient for a pint and, a halt of jelly. Bates q Ivory Jelly (Invstip Cooxrry).—Infuse six ounces of ivory powder, and simmerthem in three pints of cold water -until. the liquid is reduced te half the quantity. Let it get.cold to, jelly, and remove the, sediment. . When warmed, add a little. cinnamon or a few cloves, the juice and some of. the rind of a lemon, and sugar enough to sweeten. Let the jelly dissolve slowly without reducing it further. Strain for use. J ‘Jack. (see ‘Bottle-jack and Screen). Jam, General Observations on.— In making jams or preserves, care "must be taken first,.of. all,that the fruit.is gathered on a dry day, and when. the morning sun is, on the garden. If gathered in damp or foggy weather the jam will certainly become mouldy, and consequently will not, be worth.the trouble and, expense of boiling. The fruit shouldbe free from dust, and any that is unsound shouldbe, cast aside. It should be boiled as, soon as possible after.it is gathered. 8 The best quality of sugar, either white or brown, will be found the cheapest in the end. White sugar should-be shining and ‘close in appearance.’ Brown sugar bright and-gravelly. The-inferior sugars throw up 80 much scum in boiling that they waste as much as they save::| The quantity of sugar required depends upon the '' nature of the fruit, and particulars regarding this ‘will be given with each recipe. As there is no economy in using inferior sugar, there is'also no economy in using tod little sugar. The only result. of endeavouring to'save in this ‘way is T i Cy Risst Deh fs 5 satan § PRESERVING-PAN, t that the jam has to be boiled so much' the longer, and thus the quantity is reduced; to say nothing of the expenditure of ‘fuel. If, on. the contrary, too much sugar is used, the flavour of the fruit will be lost. In making: common ( 336 ) TAM jams; the fruit should be well: boiled:befoze the sugar is added, and'care should be taken!that)it is not so much:thickened that the sugar will uot easily dissolve: The fruits which are’ most suitable to be ,preseryed.. whole, in; syryp.are apricots, apples, cherries, greengages, peaches, nectarines, plums, and pears. The. recipe .for each will be found in this work in its proper place, Sugar should never be reduced to powder before it is added to the fruit, or if, will give the jam a turbid appearance. The Seu should be carefully remoyed as it rises., a Ae order ‘to prevent waste it, may ,be; strai through fine muslin, and the clear part, which runs through returned to the presgrying-pan. : Wooden ‘spoons should be used.for stirring jam. ' Iron, tin, or’ pewter se a pall ‘the colour. , : ei ara i 4 oi fe to An eriamelled saucepan is the best for making jam. ' If a ‘brass preserving-pan’ is used, 1 should ‘be scrupulously clean, bright, and dry. The pan should be’ raised a few inches above the fire. If placed flat on it the fruit willbe in danger of burning. The flavour and colour will be best preserved if the fruit is boiled rapidly. It should be watched constantly and stirred, frequently during the process of boiling. ._, Homie-made jam, when | properly prepared and well preserved, is incomparably superior to that which is offered for sale,and ought not, to cost more than half the price. gadis _ Jams.—Recipes for prpparne the following jams will be found under ‘ heir’ respective head- oe a a nglh Solu. APPLE | . , . Gooseperry,. Rep,,,...; Apricot a) (GREENGAGE i APRICOT, GREEN . Lemon,.AND RHUBARB. BarsBerry Macnum Bowum,, ic: BuAcKBERRY, _ Mrxep Fruits |: . Carror (Imrration, Pzacu,,, pact APRICOT) . Prum : dee) eas CuEerRy 5 RasPBERRY | i} | Currant, BuagK . | RaspparRy, aNnp.;Cur< Currant, RED, AND.) BANTD 0 WHITE eo RasepeRRY anD Ruu- Damson fo nan “BARB, lg GoosEBERRY, GREEN, RHUBARB os GooseBERRx, Wuite RuvuBaps AND ORANGE, ' oR YELLOW... | STRAWBERRY. |. , Jam, Imitation.—Cut off the yellow rind’ from a large fresh’ lemon, being careful not 'to take any-of the white. |Mince’ it ‘as finely ‘as’ possible, and put it with half a pint’ of thé best ' treacle, the strained juice of the-lemon, anda well-beaten egg into a saucepan, and boil gently for,a few minutes, stirring all the time. When: cold it is ready for use;and may be employed inetead of jam for roly-poly puddings. If put into.a jar, and-the air excluded, it will remain: good for some time. Probable cost; 4d. . Suffit... cient for a pudding large enough for six' or « | eight persons. , re : Jam, Mixed, for Nurse Use.— Take equal weights of any fruit that/is in season, such as gooseberries, red .or black: currants, raspberries, or cherries., Boil,them. gently for half an hour, then weigh the fruit, and put half a pound of sugarto, every pound of pulp and: boil twenty, minutes Jonger. When cherries TAM ( 387 ) JAM are used. they must be boiledi'twenty minutes alone before the. other fruit. is added to them. This jam will not keep-more thar two or three months. Probable cost, 6d: per pound. ‘|: “Jam, Mixed, Superidor.-Take equal measures of ‘fruit, black cherries “picked and stoned, black currants, and raspberries. ' Boil the cherries twenty minutes first, then add the currants and raspberries, with a pint and a half of red currant juice to every three pounds of fruit. Boil until the fruit is broken, then add one pound of sugar to every pint of fruit, and boil gently ‘for half an hour. Skim’ carefully, pour the jam into jars, and cover in the usual way..Probable cost, 10d: per pound. - Jam Omelet.—Beat ‘four eggs) and mix with them a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, a pinch of salt, and a table-spoonful of milk. Make an omelet-pan quite hot—the best way to do this is to put it on the fire with a little’ fat, and when this burns pour it off, and wipe the pan dry—put two ounces of fat or oil into the pan, and when it'begins to bubble pour in the eggs, &c., and keep ‘stirring them with a spoon until lightly set. Let them remain a minute, until the omelet is browned on oné side, then turn it on ahot dish, spread a little jam in the middle, fold the- edges over on each side, sift a little sugar over, and serve as quickly as possible. Time, five or six minutes to fry the omelet. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three persons. ‘Jam Patties.—Rub two ounces of ‘frégh butter into’a quarter of a pound of dried and’ sifted flour. Add a pinch of salt and a salt- spoonful of sugar, and moisten with the“ yolk of an egg, beaten up with two table-spoonfuls' of- cold-water. Roll the paste out twice, and each time spt little flout over it} fold-it up in a roll, anid let it stand in a cool placefor an iourortwo. Before making it up roll it ‘out once or twice, and 4he an ounce of butter onit. Dredge a’ last time leavé it the thickness of half an inch, then stanip it out in fourteen small rounds, and with a smaller cutter stamp again quite through six of'them, leaving a ring three-quarters of an inch wide. Lay a’ pastry ring on each perfect round, first moistening it a little with! water to make it'ddhere'securely. Bake the patties ina quick oven, fill-them while warm with jam, and put. on the top a small ornament, which thas been lightly baked. with the,. patties. Time, ten minutes to bake the patties.. Probable. cost, 14d. each. Sufficient, for.six patties. . Jam Puffs, or Turnovers.—Make some good puff paste: or short'crust ‘(see Jam Patties) ; roll it ‘out to the eighth of atiinch in'thickness, then stamp it out in rounds with a saucer or: plate, or into squares. Spread-a little jam on half the pastry, wet the edges, and turn‘ the’ 4 other ‘half quite over. ‘Press the edges neatly | ‘and’ bake in. a ‘quick oven. ‘Time,’ together, 5 ’ Probable ‘cost, about twenty minutes to bake. lid. eachy eh 5 ee pee aS i Jam Roly-poly Pudding.—Shred five or six ounces of beef suet very ‘finely; mix with it one pound of flour, add a pinch ‘of salt, and “half a'tea-spoonful of baking - powder. Make it up into a firm paste ‘with cold water ; ‘them roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of 22—N.E. Wee Ny an inch, wet the edges ‘all round, and spread half a pound of jam over the pastry. Roll it to the shape of a bolster, fasten the edges securely, and put the pudding into a floured cloth." Tie it at both ends, put it into boiling water without bending it, and let it boil quickly for about two hours. Send melted butter to table in a tureen. Imitation jam (see Jam, Iniitation) makes a good pudding for the nur- sery. Probable dost, 10d. Sufficient for four persons. one fice tae Jam Sandwiches.—Mix the yolks of two eggs very smoothly with a table-spoonful’ ot fidut and‘a'table-spoonful of: ground rice, add a very small pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of sugar, half a pint of thick cream, and a quarter of'a pint of new milk. Beat the whites of the eges to ‘a' firm froth, add them last of all, and beat the mixture for four or five minutes, Butter two large plates; put in the mixture, and bake in a quick oven’ until it'is set and lightly browned. Spread a little jam over one of the cakes and lay the other upon it, the browned part uppermost. Sift a little sugar over it ‘before serving.’ Jam sandwiches may be eaten either hot or cold, Time, twenty minuteg,-to ‘bake. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. Sufficient’ for ‘threg or four persons. © «.:.- as Jam Tarts.—Make some pastry, as di- rected for Jam Patties. Butter a dozen patty- pans; and ‘line them with the pastry rolled out to a quarter of an inch ‘in thi¢kness.' Put them into’ a quick oven, and when nearly baked take them out and'put'a little jam in the centre of each, then return them to the’ oven and finish baking.) An ornament'already baked should be placed ‘upon each, or a little whipped’ cream. Time, a few minutes. td bake. Probable cost, 14d. each. * Sufficient for eight tarts. Jam Tart, Open.—Make some pastry, as directed for Jam Patties, or.as follows :—Rub six ounces of butter, into the same quantity of dried_and: sifted, flour. Add a pinch of salt, half a tea-spoonful of baking-powder, a ;tea-_ spoonful of pounded. sugar, and make it up into a, smooth paste with, the. yolk of an egg beaten up with a little cold,water; about a: quarters ofa pint will, be required. Roll out the pastry: to. the, thickness of.a, quarter of an inch. Butter an ornamented tart-pan and line it with the pastry. Trim the edges neatly, and prick a few holes inthe bottom witha fork. Bake in a moderate: oven until. lightly, browned,: then take the tart out, let it cool 4, little, spread the jam on‘it, and ornament the top with a few leaves or stars of pastry which have been baked separately: Time, about half an hour to bake. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for three or four persons iy, " Jam, To Keep.—Pour the jam into ‘perfectly sound dry bottles or jars. Glass bottles are the best, as through them any mould or fermentation can be easily perceived without removing the cover. If earthenware jars are used the jam should be looked at onee or twice. . during the first two months, and if there.is any appearance of the jam not keeping, it should be . | gently reboiled.. Place a round of thin. paper dipped in brandy on the top of the jam. Cut JAM ae some rounds of paper sufficiently large to over- lap the top of the jar about an'inch.'. Brash the inside with' beaten white of egg or with a little gum, and tie it' on ‘whilst’ wet. It will become hard and tight like the skin of a drum, and will thoroughly exclude the air. A neat label should be placed on the front of‘all jars containing jam, and on this should’ be written the day of the month and year on which the jam was made, and the weight’ of ‘sugar and fruit used in its ‘préparation. Jam should be kept. in a cool,'dry place. Damp may turn it mouldy, heat make it ferment." " eae ae Mec anne Jambon, Cutlets au (see Cutlets au Jambon). . ‘ ee a Jardiniére.—This is a garnish made of cooked vegetables, which gives its name to the dish with which itis served. Thus, fillet of beef'a la jardiniére, mutton 4 la jardiniére, goose a la jardiniére, simply mean fillet of beef, mutton, and goose seryed: with a garnish 4 la jardiniére: ‘To prepare this ‘garnish, peel two or three sound carrots and turnips, and’ turn or shape them in ‘fanciful forms of equal size., This is most easily done with' a vegetable scoop made for the ‘purpose. : Two: ounces of French beans cut into diamonds should be added, « cauliflower divided into sprigs, two ounces of green peas, two ounces of asparagus tops cut up into small pieces, anda few brussels! sprouts.’ Cook all' the vegetables first in a little broth nicely’ flavoured: with pepper, salt;' and sugar. Take them out when they ‘are rather underdone, so that they shall not break when dished ; drain them thoroughly, put them into a. saucepan, with a, table-spoonful of lightly- coloured glaze, and shake them for two or three (ee NY minutes, over the fire. Take them up, and arrange them round the dish as éffectively as possible. This is genegally best done by raising the meat in the cate and, putting the vegetables round if..----~-- -. Jardiniére Soup.—Scrape three sound carrots and the same number of turnips, and turn them into any fanciful shapes of an equal size with a French vegetable scoop. Put them into a stewpan with a dozen ‘button onions, two or three leaves of lettuce, tarragon, and chervil, and a head of celery cut:as nearly as possible the same size as the turnips and carrots. Pour over them two quarts of nicely-seasoned clear stock, and simmer‘ gently until the vege- tables are tender. A small lump of sugar is an improvement. Taste, the soup before sending it to table,’ in order to ascertain if further seasoning is requited,*and serve ‘as: hot as possible.’ Time, about an hour and.a half. Probable cost, 4d. per quart, exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Jargonelle. ‘Pears, To. Bake.—Pare, core, and divide four large pears into quarters. Weigh them, and put them into a haking-dish with their weight'in sugar, as much ‘cold water as will barely cover thom, three or four drops‘ of cochineal, four clovés, and the thin’ rind ‘of half a-lemon. ‘Put them inté 4 moderate oven ' and bake them until they are tender, but’ be’ careful not to let them ‘break. Lift the pears carefully into a glass’ dish, boil'the sauce two ( 838 ) oeu or three minutes, strain it, and pour it over the fruit. A glass of swéet' wine’ may be added’ or not. Ifa little isinglass or gélatine is dissdlved in the hot syrup, it will when'cold form a jelly round the pears, ‘arid make'a pretty dish. Time, dne'hour' or more to bake. Probablé cost, 8d., exclusive of the isinglass: Sufficient for three or four‘persons. © 0“! 0"! aly eee eee . pile ain Fa hg . Jargonelie Pears, To Preserve.— Gather the pears before they are\.fully ripe.. Pare them as thinly as possible, cut_ out the black tops, and pick out'the sééds.. Weigh’ the fruit and simmer it ver'y gently until itis ‘quite tender, but unbroken; then dtain'it, arld’mak @ | 4 syrup of one pound of sugar and half a pint of water to every, pound of ‘pears.’ Let, ‘this | boil, for five or six minutes, remove the scum ag it rises, put in the pears and simmer them in the syrup five minutes longer. Lift out care. fully, and put them to stand in'a dish with the syrup, which must entirely cover them, for two days. Then put them again into the’ pan, and simmer them until they aré clear, but they must ‘not’ break; if a little lemon- rind is simmered with the syrup it will improve the flavour, and two or three drops of cochineal will improve the colour, Put the fruit into jars, pour the syrup over it, and cover securely. ‘When wanted the pears may either be seryed in the’ syrup or dried in'a cool oven. Time, ‘three days. Probable cost, pears, 3d..per pound. Jargonelle Pears, To ‘Preserve (another way).—Prepare ‘the pears “ds in’ the’ last’ recipe. "When they are pared, ‘cored. and weighed, put ‘them, into # saucepan, with vine’ leaves under’ and “over them; cover them with cold-water, and simmer them gently for, half an hour. “Drain them, and make’ a syrup, allowing one pound. of sugar to every pound of fruit, and half a pint of water to every pound and a, half of sugar, with one ounce of ginger, and’ the rind and juice of half a lemon. Boil this syrup for ten minutes, put in the pears, and let them ‘simmer a quarter of an hour. “Lift them out carefully, boil the syrup ten minutes’ longer, and whén. -cold pour it over the pears. Cover them closely, and in three days, boil the syrup ten-minutes again, and repeat this twice; three days. being, allowed to elapse between each boiling... The’ pears must be entirely covered with the syru while they are soaking. Put a clove in each pear. Put the fruit in a deep jar, pour the syrup over it, cover closely to exclude the air, and keep in a cool, dry place.’ Probable cost df, pears, 3d. per pound. TE eS ey ae Jaune Mange, or Dutch Flummery! —Take'the thin rind of a large lemon, and put it into a saucepan with a pint of water, and four ounces of sugar: Simmer’ gently fora few minutes, then'let the syrup stand by the ‘side. of the fire for half an’ hour, that the favour of the lemon may’ be thoroughly drawn out. © At the’end of that ‘time ‘put in one ounce of best isinglass, and stir until it is dissolved ; - add the'- straimed juice of the lemon, and half a pint of - sherry or raisin wine. ‘Strain the mixfie' into a jug, add the’ well-beaten yolks of six eggs, ; and placé the’ jug in a saucepan of boing . 3 ‘ids ( 3 39 ) JEL Mad: as 1 ‘ . Ye tance ey ay ae pli Tos water; keep stirring until it: thickens, but do not let it boil; let it cool, then pour it through muslin into moulds, which have Ween soaked in cold water, and‘let it remain until stiff. Gelatine may, be,,used,, instead, of isinglass if preferred... Time, about. ten minutes, to thicken the mixture. Probablg,,cost, , 14; ,8d. exclusive of the wine, if made with isinglass ; 1s.) if made with gélatine: Sufficient‘ for a quart mould. = ve ot pea Jejune Pudding,—Take the weight of four eggs with their shelly on in sugar, butter, and flour ; heat the hatter to a cream, and mix with it the powdered sugar, the thin rind of a fresh lemon finely minced, the eggs thoroughly whisked, and, last of all, the Hour; beat all thoroughly until quite light. This pudding may be either baked or boiled. If baked, halt fl some small moulds, well buttered, with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven. Turn‘out before serving. If boiled, pour the’ mixture into-a well-buttered ‘plain round mould, put a buttered paper over the top, tie it in a cloth, plunge it into boiling, water, and boil for an hour and a half.’ A syrup flavoured with lemon, and slightly coloured with cochineal, may be poured into the dish with the pudding. Time, half an hour to bake the pudding. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Jelly, General ;Observations: on.— Jelly is most frequently mgde from calf s-foot stock, isinglass, or gelatine.” When made from the first of these, itis very wholesome and nutri- tious, and is especially suited for conyalescents. When isinglass and gelatine ‘are used, many agreeable and pleasing dishes.may be made for the table, but these should never be offered. to, an itivalid. As the jelly which is sold by con- fectioners is almost always made of isinglass, calf’s-foot jelly should, if possible, be made at home, Careful attention given to the direc- tions given under the heading, Calf’s-foot Jelly, will insure a perfectly transparent jelly, and. for this result once straining will generally be found sufficient, though, of course, if necessary, ; it must be strained more than once. ~ » Fellies.—Recipes for preparing the follow- ing: jellies will be found under their respective headings‘— : : : Atr or’ Portzr ALMOND | kee ae : APPLE OAL¥’s-FOoT Caur’s-Foor | Carr’s-Foor, APPLE Catr’s-root, Foun- FRUIT Appts Jvice YOR Caxr’s-Foor, Lemon JELLY CatrF’s-rooT, Manras- Aprirs, RED, WITH, CHINO DG ‘Terny » ia Caur’s-rooT, ORANGE ARRICOT | .. Cazr’s-Foot,Stock FoR, Apricots In, WHITE .CorFEE.. 5 as _ SELLY |: _ Cow-1EEL Apricots PREsERvED,,, Crap APpLes, SIBERIAN In JELLY, , , CRANBERRY, ARROWROOT | ~ | GRAN BERRY, AND ASHBERRY , Grounp Ricz,. ASPIc Cura¢oa BaRBERRY ,, ; ,- .;, CURRANT, Buack Buack Currant _ Currant, Rep Brrap Currant, WHITE, ooh CABBAGE Damson Ning Hel hea Fisu, JELLY.\For .... ; Icznanp Moss | Inisuz Mogs,, «;, | IsiIngLass AND GELA- TINE Istyexass, ConsTANTIA | Istneiass, CRANRERRY ~ anD, RASPBERRY ..: Isinexass, Invaips’, i. a half-square,: and se double seam, so as to ‘Istyenass, CURRANT. Lemon Istnghass AND Four-rrvir , ,;, . GELATINE~ Fow1Jeuy, mw Cakes, Lemon Istnerass, Su- FRENCH ,, ,, fs . PERLATIVE | Frurt, Istyenass Mavzrra WINE ‘'GELATINE ,, Marascuino GuouczsTer,.,.. ,., Marpug, . f Gooseperry. , , .,, MeEpLar, , . a Goosrnmpey,Grezy, Novav . |), GRaPE. 7 vty ¢NO¥aU,, witH,, Ate, } Gare, IsiycLass ; : MOND), _ ie Cet ce | Gravy, JELLY ror,, ORance APPLE, - | Guava, IMrration RANGE CALF’S-FOOT Harrsnorn ») wi. ORANGE ba OrancE Istxeuas ORANGE FILLED WITH _ SELLY PanacwEE _ Pie’s-rezr anp E. Pinz ArrLre Pomona. joy, a Port WinzE JELLY . Punew i400 jc! Istnciass, Lemon .,,,,QUINCE, |. ,, iIgrygzass, OnanceE .. Raspperry, Istncuass, StRaw-, Raspprrry anp Cups _ BERRY oy, RANT pUmtan, oo RICK Ivory . Rum ass tc ain Ivory Dust), . RUSSIAN ia, y Aa ae , Jeviy, Four-rrurr . Suxzer’s T'Rorrersg..., ... LEMON |. _., , SPRAWRERRY i. 0! Lemons FILLED wiTH Tapioca, ae JELLY VENUS'S. Jelly-bags.—Jelly-bags are much the strongest and best when made at home. The strong flannel used for ironing-blankots is ‘the’ best for this purpose, and it should be made of JELLY-BAG. wn at, the side with a be wide at.the top, and pointed at the bottom., The top may ‘be: ‘| A jelly-bag should always be wrung hemmed,.and three tape loops. sewn to it,; by which the bag may be suspended when, in use. Iry out of before the liquid is ‘poured ‘into it... Bottled, To Mould, —When jelly is wanted quickly, if may be bought in, hotiles, ready made, and, beautifully trans-. parent. In order to mould «it, uncork, the , bottle, and put it into, boiling, water. Let at., remain until the jelly can be poured out of the hot water Jelly, | bottles, Flavour it according to taste, but donot . add very much liquid, or it may interfere with JEL (340 ) JEL the, firmness of the jelly. Pour, it into damp moulds, and,put it in a cool place,,to become stiff, again. ‘Time, a few minutes to dissolve; some hours to: become firm again. Probable cost, from 1s. fo.1s. Gd. per pint. , , _ Jelly Bread (Invarm Cooxery).—Re- move the crust froma penny roll. Cut the crumb into thin slices, and toast these toa bright brown on each sidé. Put them into’a sducepan with a quart of cold spring water, and simmer géntly until the liquid will jelly;'which point may be known by putting alittle on one side to cool. Strain through muslin; sweeten, and flavour with wine ‘and lemon-juice, if per- mitted. Time, an hour and 4 half to two hours, ‘Probable cost, ‘2d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for one person. ‘Jelly, Cream.—Put three pints of water | into a saucepan with'a quarter of.a pound of hartshorn-shavings, and boil gently until’ the | liquid will jelly. This may be easily ‘ascer- tained by taking a little in a spoon, and letting it get cold. When sufficiently boiled, strain it, and add half a pint of cream, two table-spoon- fuls of rose or orange-flower water, two table- . spoonfuls of sherry, and two ounces of sifted sugar. minutes, stirring all the'time, to prevent’ the mixture curdling. "When cool, pour it into a damp monld, turn. it out as soon as itis stiff, and pour over it half a’pint of ‘cream, flavoured according to taste. Time, about threé hours to |’ simmer the shavings. ' Sufficient for a quart mould. Jelly Custard.—Put a pint of new failk: |. into a saucepan, sweeten and flavour according to taste, and when it is lukewarm, pour it over the yolks of six well-beaten fresh eggs.’ Stir it over the fire until it is thick, but it must not boil; then add’an ounce of dissolved isin- glass. ‘Soak half a dozen small moulds of different sizes in water,'pour’ in’ the custard, and when firmly set turn out the moulds, arrange them prettily ona dish, and pour over them a syrup flavoured with lemon-peel, and coloured with two’ or three ‘drops of cochineal. Time, half an’ hour’to prepare. Probable cost, ls. 10d. Sufficient for five or six ‘persons. Jelly-Custard Tartlets. — Dissolve two table-spoonfuls of strawberry or red cur- rant, jelly over the fire. Let it get quite cool, then mix with it gradyally three well-beaten eggs. Three parts fill some, tartlet tins, lined with puff paste, and bake in a quick oven for ten minutes. Probable cost, 2d. cach. Sufficient for half a dozen tartlets. ia Jelly, Fancy:+~A variety of pretty- igskenes Usher ay be made with jelly, either by using different colours, and allowing one _ colour to become colour is added, or, by using the fancy moulds which are now so generally made. ‘In ‘these | dishes very much depends upon the taste of the | cook. A piece of cardboard may. be cut’ out to . fit the, middle of the mould very closely, and different-coloured jellies poured in at each side. Ora layer of one colour may be poured in, ‘and stares become quite cold before another is*| ' d, and thus the mould be'filled.’ ‘This plan Boil all together gently for five | é perfectly firm before’another | ' pies should. be, made requirés some time. "When tle mould is made with hollow ‘balls'at the ‘top, asi is frequently! the case, a pretty effect may be :productd by: filling those balls only with a: bright-cdloured. jelly, and when they ‘are firmly set, adding.the rest uncoloured. ' Another way’is to half fill the. mould with blancmange, when this.is setifo:poun over it'a thin layer of jélly, and afterwards fill up with blancmiangé again. When there areany: remains of different-coloured jellies they- should be put into one mould, and a little clear-jelly, quite cold, and ‘nearly set, poured over them. The ‘fancy of the cook will doubtless suggest endless varieties for thesé-dishes: ies eR TY Selly Fish,—Make'a quart of jelly aticord- ing to the directions given, for Jelly Meat for Cold; Pies. If at hand, the head ‘and’ trim- mings of, turbot, whiting, or skate ‘may’ b stewed. with. the calf’s foot, but they are ni indispensable. Pass the jelly through the tamijs until quite clear, and clarify it, if neces- sary, with the beaten whites ‘and crushed; shells of four eggs. Pour,ajJayer of, the. jelly, ahout eae ie ‘JELLY FISH. |; an inch in depth, ‘into a wet mould, and “when it is firmly set arrange some prawns or a f . fish round the edges, and add the remainder’ the jelly. The.fish must be put into the jelly backs downward, as it must be remembered that their position will be reversed whén‘tutned out. , Time, about three hours’ to’ set ‘pach | layer. . Probable cost,. 3s. Suflicient for” six | or, seven persons. : yon ae ae eflere’ Z ted Jelly for Pies, To Clari ¥.—Jellg fpr aight, and; clear in the same way as calf's-foot, jolly—that is,'it, Should | be allowed to get cold,-and then every particle ‘of fat should be removed, the sediment which settles at the bottom of the,pan, being left undisturbed, and,,the. jelly should | ye mixed thoroughly, when cold, with the whites and ‘shells of eges, two.eggs, being. used for every | pint. of jelly. The contents of the sapcepan must mot be stirred’ after they. once begin to heat, and; they must boil a few. minutes, -and afterwards stand by the side of the fire for a. few minutes, to settle, before the scum is removed and the jelly strained. If the meat be slowly boiled, jelly will. seldom require clarifying with white of oge, but, if should always be made the, day before it is wanted,.so that the fat and sediment may be effectually removed. Time, ten minutes to boil the jelly, and a quarter of an hour to let it settle, | Jelly for the Sick: (Invattp Cooxery).— Care‘ should be taken in making jeHy for TBi, (34 ) de: au My invalids td:ascertain.whether,,or not,wing: % ee ee . ; | a lehionxjuice.:are. allowed: befora putting, thom into {the istoek.. Generally speaking, any ve decided flavour ‘is objected, to, and nia chee bo! sparingly: used, as sweetness. cloys,,a deli- cate appetito.; Ag, however, thejacid and, sugar | materially assist: the-clearing of. the je it would be well, when these. cannot, he; eed to add. the .white7and shell of another, ege. In this. case, therefore, ‘three. instead of, two eggs should be put with every pint of stock. Change of diet is very desirable for invalids. A pleasing’ variéty may \be made by, making the jelly savoury: instead ;of sweet... This, can bg, done by stewing with the feet_an onion, a dozen, peppercoiiis, and'a bladé of mace!’ Tf 4. pound. of the, thin Z péét'be' added to this, ig Jelly wi a very Rourishin, dive or six hours to stéw. |) Probable ‘cost of fect, 94, to,1s, each.,"Twvo £ {will Haké'a quart of: jelly. "he poen : 2 gee att : : Mog “ugelly, Four “Jelly ‘in'' Oravige-skins.-Take: four large sound. oranges.<,Cut, out a round about an inch’ in ‘diameter from ‘the stalk end, and tents <- f the orange very scoop.out the “eon ts thoroughly wii téa‘spoon:: Throw the skins into. “cold water. for.-two or three hours, to hardén'them;: and“ meanwhile make the juice as clear as possible-by straining’ i h a jellgshas, id. with it’ sore white! edaned. 6.a-pul ‘being washed in, aters. . Add an -ourice of’ isinglass dis- soly little. possible, and a} quarter of a “pound of sugar; and strain the jelly again until it is ‘quite cl ‘ake out the; skins, let them drain, and if inadvertently any ales have been made, fill them up with butter. ut the jelly into the orange-skins, and when they are quite’ cold, cut-them into quarters*with a sharp knife, pile them‘ on a napkin, ‘and ‘gar. “nish, them prettily with bright green leaves. The appearance of the fruit is much improved “af the.oranges are filled with different-coloured “jellies, but when this is done, one colour must ne firm before the next is added.’ Pro- - vecome E Dable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six ‘or eight et petsons. -vtirelo ot , Jelly, Isinglass' Clarified for.—Put ‘ah’ Shnce of isinglass’into an enamelled sauce- “pai ‘with half a ‘pint of water... Bring.’ it “slowly t0'a' boil, then draw? ‘of the’fire, and simmer gently for half an hour, careful to stir the isinglass constantlyy to Ie qoulens, 1,0! , bein, prev “yises ¢: it'ona-sievé which has. been “idoistoned with ‘boiling water. A little/clear ‘Fell: may drain from it, and this may be ‘added “to thé isinglass. ‘A tea-spoonful of cold water ‘shouldbe put'in twoor ‘three times to assist “the séuni,in rising. When the jelly is required “exceedingly. ‘transparent, a tea-spoonful | of thite ‘of egg may be added to’ the water “and; é “besten w “in Which the “idinglas¢‘ is dissolved, but when ‘this i¥ done, ‘a’ ‘little ‘nore isinglass” should be ‘ glidwed, as, the white of eg ‘weaken it:' An ounce of isinglass is usually considered necessary for a'pint of juice. Pro-. --Hable cost, 1s..2d. per.oumce:~ Sufficient, half 30 pint of water for an ounce of isinglass. be produced.’ Time, | -fruit (sce Four-fruit Jelly). the pan to the side | veut’ it sticking. Remove the scum. as it | of’ egg has a tendency to. i 1 t | liqueur. Diséolve | isinglass' in a° pint ‘of’ water! being careful’ to dolly, Liqueur. —Thisj Mh She mea a vat, curagoa, or’ aity ‘other ay may be made “Dissolve two’ outices of' best‘ Russian remove the ‘scum a’ 'it vises,"add’ a pound’ of loaf sugar, whith" hag'bedh boiledto a syrup with half a-pint of water, andalso carefully skimmed, the strained, juice of, a jlemon, and a quarter of a pint of liqueur, ,, Mix thoroughly, pour the ;jelly through,a tamis into, a damp mould,-and; set, it.in ice until..wanted. for use, Tétho .jelly-he!very stiff. the mould should be dipped for. asmoment -in boiling water before turning -it,.upon:the dish... Time, half an hour to clarify the isinglass, ten minutes, to clarify the sugar,;, Probable cost, exclusive of, the liquour, 28..8d.., Sufficient for, eight or. ten persons. er i = ade . Jelly, Meat, for Pies, Economical. Soak about ian; ounce of gelatine in ‘a little cold;,water.. Letiii swell. Mix half a tea- spoonful .of, Liebig’s extract of meat with a pint-of boiling water, and put it into a saucéian with .a).shallot,| a tea-spoonful of salt, ie. , the very thin rind dia ‘dessert hoy dozen. peppercorns, a clove of a quarter of a, lemon, an [-spoon: of:tarragon vinegar. Simmer gently until the flayouring, is, extracted, add. the gelatine, and -when; this, a dissolved, strain, the liquid through a bag,-add a wine-glassful of white wine, if approved, and, put the jelly aside to set. Cut it inte dice. or,use it,as required; Time, forty minutes to, simmer the, gravy. Probable cost, dy, exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a pint and a half of jelly. a ae Sg: 4., Jelly,;/Meat, for Cold Pies.—Scald and -prepare,a calf’s/foot, and put it prt a stewpan ‘with ihalf a pound of the knuckle, of a leg or ‘shoulder : of veal, ,to, shallots, a, small bunch of: savoury herbs, .an,,onion with two cloves stuck im it, a, lump of ,sugar;and the. thin rind -of-balg,.a lemon, a, tea-spoonful of salt, half a itea-spoontul, of;,cayenne, and three quarts of cold spring water; Bring the liquid to a boil, remove the; scum, carefully. as it rises, and usimmen gently for five or six. hours. Run the jelly through,a- bag, and let it stand, aide. until ‘eold, (Take away. the sediment.and the fat, and pour the .gravy into Fo pie iene | opening in. the cover. e flavour of this ‘Oty should be datiea with’ the dish for Which ‘it i8 required,” Tf ‘for 4, chicken-and-ham pie, the ‘neck, bones, and tinmings of the’chicken should be stewed With the gravy, together with half'apound’ of ledn, ‘undressed ‘ham, or ‘the rind’ of bacoti' spaked, scraped, and cut small. Tf for “haté’ or, game pie, the bones and trim- mings of the hare or game’ should be ‘used. Sufficient for three:pints of, gravy. . Probable cost, Is. 8d.’ \ : _ Jelly, Meat, fo Take 2 pound and’ half of the knuckle or neck. of veal and half a pound'of the shin of beef. . Cut, them into small pieces, and’ put éhem into, a saucepan with a quarter of # pint ; ; ‘simmer gently for half an of good beef’ stock; 3 hour, then add two pints more stick, and algo a i apy, r Pies, Superior.— | shallot, three, ouncés of undresséd lean ham, @ quarter of a ‘tea-spoonful of bruised celery- b, un ane seed tied in muslin, a clove, a small banch of JEL savoury herbs, and half a dozen peppercorns. Simmer slowly for three or. four hours; or until the liquid: will jelly. If-quickly boiled, the jelly will not be so clear. Strain the gravy, add salt:if required, and put it aside until quite cold, so that the fat may be’entirely removed. | Probable cost, 28. 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a halter JeMge. owt ga % Bhaptuns .. Jelly, Meat. used in Stock. for.—A of. the- meat from the feet which have been stewed for stock, Take away the bones, and cut the. meat into neat pieces, season. them with . salt and cayenne, and a little pounded mace. | ‘Press them into a mould, ,pour-over.them a little of the jelly, and when cold turn out in a shape. Garnish according to taste. Time, a quarter of, an hour to prepare. . Probable cost, 1d. or | 2d. Sufficient for two or three persons, if made from the remains of two feet. Jelly Mould (see Ilustration accompany- ing the notice of Apple Calf’s Foot Jelly). Jelly, Open, with Whipped Cream. —Prepare a pint and a half of perfectly trans- parent jelly; either calf’s foot, isinglass, or gelatine; colour: it, if liked, with two or three ‘drops of cochineal, and put:it into a:damp mould made with an :opening in the centre on purpose for dishes of this description. When the jelly is firmly set, have ready three-quarters of a pint of whipped cream nicely flavoured and sweetened. Pile this in the opening as high as possible, and it is ready to serve. Ifan open mould is not at hand, a gallipot filled with Jelly Pudding.—Soak the thin rind’ of a fresh lemon in two table-spoonfuls of spring water ‘for half an hour. While it is soaking, beat five ounces of fresh butter to a cream, add four ounces of pounded and sifted sugar, and, very _ gradually, the yolks of three eggs, well beaten. Line a small pie-dish with good. puff ‘paste. . “bake in a quick oven. When it is time for the pudding to be baked, mix with it the strained lemon-water, and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a solid froth, and Time, twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 10d. Suflicient for three persons. fA | oa Jelly, Rice.—Mix four ounces of. rice- flour smoothly and gradually with a quart of cold milk; put them into a saucepan with;a . quarter of an ounce of clarified isinglass, the ~ thin rind of half a lemon, four bitter almonds, ‘ blanched and pounded, dnd four ounces of sugar. Boil and stir briskly until quite thick. Take out the lemon-rind, and pour the mixture into, a damp mould. When it is firmly sct, turn it on a glass dish, pour melted currant jelly, or any fruit syrup, round it, and send a jug of cream to table'with it. Time, five minutes after boiling. Probable cost, 8d., ex- _ Clusive of the sauces. ' Sufficient for five or six “persons. . Jelly, Stock for.—Stock for jellies may be made either of calf’s foot, ox-heel, or the shank-bones.of mutton. In all these the pro- : cess—long and gentle’ stewing—is the same. The quantity of water required is as follows:— .good breakfast or luncheon,.dish, may be made | cold water may be put into an ordinary mould, . ‘then removed when the jelly round’it ibeold. : ( 342 ) JEL Calf’s-foot Stock--Procure two calf’s feet from the butcher.. Lay them in a saucepan of sdald- ing hot water for three or four minutes, then scrape off the hair with the back of a knife. Divide them \into, halyes, knock off the hoofs, remove. the fat Pie between the toes, wash in two or three waters, and put them into a sauce- pan with two quarts of cold water. Bring them slowly to a boil, remove the scum as it rises, assist it: {0 rise by throwing in a few drops of cold water when, the liquid is on the point of boiling, and simmer gently for five or six hours, until the liquid is reduced fully’ one-half. Strain it, and put it aside ‘until cold. Before using it, remove the fat from it, with an iron spoon which has been dipped into boiling water. When as much fat as possible has been taken off, a cloth dipped in hot water and squeezed dry should be dabbed over the jelly, which should then ‘be lightly dried. Ox-Aeel' Stock—Take two ‘heels, 'scalded,: but ‘unboiled, remove: the fat from between the: claws, and wash them thoroughly in Inkewarni water. Put them into a saucepan with three quarts of cold: water. Bring this to a boil, remove the scum carefully, and simmer. gently for seven or eight hours, or until the liquid, is reduced: one-half.. Strain and pour off the stock,.and set it'aside to cool. Shank-bones of! Mutton—Wash and brush a dozen shank-bones of mutton. Pour over.them three pints of water, and simmer gently for seven or eight hours until the liquid is reduced. to'a pint. The stock for jellies should always be made the day before it is wanted, so that the fat' and sediment may be effectually removed. Probable cost, calf’s feet, '1s..each; ox-heel, 6d. | each; shank-bones, 3d. or. 4d. ‘per dozen, when they are to be bought. The butchers, however, very frequently, weigh them with the leg. “Jelly, Syrup Clarified for.— When jelly is desired very'clear and transparent itis safer to clarify the sugar. as well as the isin- glass. ' Mix a pint of water with a tea-spoonful of the beaten white of egg. Put it intoa ‘sauce- pan witha pound of loaf sugar, and Jet it boil gently until: the scum ceases to rise. «Re- move the scum carefully, and strain the syrup through a napkin into a basin. ‘ime, about 'a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 5d. ° « Jelly, Weak Wine (Ixvarip Cookery). —Put an ounce of isinglass into an enamelled saucepan with three-quarters of a pint of water and three ounces of sugar. Boil gently until it is dissolved, remove the scum carefully as ‘it rises, and throw in a tea-spoonful.of,cold water two or three times, to assist it in doing so. Strain the jelly through a bag which has been wrung out of hot water,’ naa the juideof a couple of oranges, and a quarter of a pint of good. sherry, and pour the liquid into glasses. Let it be kept in a cool place until firmly set. Though this jelly will be agreeable and refresh- ing, it will not be as nourishing as if made from calf’s feet. Time, half an hour to dissolve the isinglass. Probable cost, exclusive of. the wine, Is. 4d. Sufficient for four or five glasses. ; Jelly, Whipped.—Take the remains of any cold jelly. Dissolve it over a gentle fire, put it intoa basin, and place -this-upon some rough ice mixed ‘with salt, whisk it briskly until JEN ( 843 ) JOH 46 iki shell frothedy: “Poundt wite a mond and set this at once in ice: When firm, turn it out ona dish." /fime, a few minutes toidissolye: |. “'‘Jonhy’s Pudding —Bitter's sitiall plain mould rather thickly, and’ ornament ‘it! with dried chertiés ‘diid' slités of letnon-peel stuck’ in» layers ‘all’ round thé inside. Cut some’ thin slices of sponge biscuit, and with’ thesé'line the mould. Fill’ up the centre owith ratafia bis- cuits andthe crumb of bread, finely grated, lay slices, of sponge biscuit over the top, and pour over the whole by degrees as much rich custard as it willahsorb. Let the pudding stand for an | hour or two.’ ‘Then'¢over it! with ‘buttered writing paper, ‘tie it in a cloth, plunge it into boilitig” water, ‘atid’ boil quickly’ for an hour. The mould must’ be quite full. \Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for three persons. * P Mbtta de ofiany: kind of white boiled ‘fish, -Remove.the bones and. skin, and’ cutithe flesh. into neat slices, dredge a little: flour-over. them, and fry them-in a little butter, with two.shallots, finely minced, supposing there ure two pounds of fish. Dredge.a ttable-spoonful of curry-powder over them; and put them on a hot plate in the oven until required:: Melttwo ounces of: butter over the fire, and mix smoothly with it two table- spoontuls.of flour. Add a small tea-spoonful ‘of: salt, half a:tea-spoonful of mixed spice, and-as much milk as will make it-of the con- Bistericy' of thick cream. ‘Let-it boil gently for | a few minutes, then put in the slices of fish, and Jet them remain for balf.an.hour.: ' Just before serving,’ squeeze.the juice of half a lenion over them. | Probable cost, exclusive of the cold fish, 6d.' Sufficient for three or‘four persons.’ Jerséy Pudding.—Mix’an ounce of flour thoroughly with two outices of ground rice, two ounces of moist sugar, and a very,small, pinch of salt..: Work-these ingredients smoothly into four ounces. of ‘butter... Add, twa ounces of stoned xaisins, chopped small, a tea-spoonful of | finely-minced lemon-rind, three well- beaten ges, and two table-spoonfuls of milk... Pour the mixture intol.a well-buttered mould, cover dtiwith an oiled paper, tie it.in.a cloth, and keep it boiling until it is done..enough. 1 BOUr ’ round, the pudding .a sauce. made of. syrup, ° flavoured with .lemon-rind and juice, and colonred with two, or;three drops of cochineal. ’ Time, one hour, to boil. Sufficient for two persons. Chaar ‘Jerusalem Artichokes (see Artichokes, Jerusslem): ‘ ARP ma Probable cost, 6d. . ° Jewish Almond Pudding (sce Almond Pudding, Jewish). = Jewish: Method of Frying: Fish. (se Fish, Fried, Jewish Fashion). Pass “Jewish Sausage, or Chorissa.—This ig re an re aienl to oiled fish and other dishes, and is often met with at ewish ‘tables. It is, purchased of the Jew butchers, and is prepared in the following way :—Place the chorissa in warm water, let itWeat gently, and then'boil for twenty mihtutes.! Serve, sur- ‘vounded with rice made: ready as: for curry. Jewish sausagey ate very good broiled in slices after the previous boiling. , They, should -be quite cold before being, put. again. to the. fire. One authority: is. of: opinion that they will be found: more digestible, as well. as.pleasenter: to the taste, if they ane half-boiled at least; before being broiled, toasted, or warmed in the oven for the fable tne, Jewish Smoked Beef.—Like the sau- sages of the preceding paragraph Jewish smoked beef is‘to“be bought of the Jew butchers. -To cook it, drop the méat into boiling water, ‘let it: boil for ten minutes, ‘take off any ‘s¢um ‘that rigés to the surface, add ‘cold water enough to reduce’ the liquid'to mere scalding heat, then bring it gently to the boil, and simmer until the lean of the meat feels quite tender when probed with a'sharp skewer. Lift the méat on a, drainer, and'serve hot or cold, and garnish ‘to vehet yt Jersey Milk Curry.—Take the remains | taste with vegetables or otherwise.” : John Dory.—The John Dory or Jaune Doré, so named from the yellow tints on its sur- face, is a comparatively rare, and consequently expensive, fish, which isseasonable from Michael- mas to Christmas. The flesh is white and firm, something like the claw of a lobster, and, in fish weighing more‘than seven or eight pounds, is apt to be rather coarse and ‘strong. It is best, both in flavour and quality, when weigh- ing from four to’ six pounds. Though the oiliness' ofthe. skin unfits it for broiling, it is very good when boiled. When very small the John Dory is best baked. ‘It is considered ‘by some inferior: only to the turbot. Probable cost, 8s. to 5s. Daa de Sih any Ry 4 John Dor 9 .Baked,—Clean, dry, and flour. a small fish, season it with pepper. arid salt, and sprinkle a little fnély-tninced ‘parsley over it. “Brush it well with ‘clarified “butter, and place’ it in a well-buttered baking ~dish. Pour a glass of light wine’ over it, and bake in a moderate oven. For sauce, béat the yolks of two eggs, put them into a saucepan with’ two ounces of butter, the strained juice ‘of half'a fresh lemon, two table-spoonfuls of cold water, half a salt-spoonful of salt, a grain of cayenne, and a'small pinch of powdered mace.’ Stir well “until the sauce nearly boils. If the boiling point is reached the sauce will curdle. Send it to table poured over the fish, and garnish with ‘cut. lemon’ and parsley:' Time, twenty minutes to ‘bake’: Probable cost, 28. | Sufficient for two.or three’persons. re ee es . John Dory, Boiled.—Empty and cleanse ‘the fish thoroughly, and rub a, little salt over ‘the outside. Cut off the fins, and put it into a fish-kettle, with cold water enough to cover it, and an_ounce of salt.to' éach quart of water. Heat, it vory gradually, and be careful that ié boils slowly... Serve on @ hot ‘napkin, and garnish with curled parsley and ‘cut, lemon. Shrimp, anchovy, Jobster, or Dutch sduce should be sent to table with the fish. Time to boil, ac- cording to the size; @ fish weighing five pounds will require about a quarter of an hour's geritle poiling.' Probable cost, 98, to! 5s.’ Sufficient for five or six persons. |" ' ' Me ‘ 4 _ John Dory, Cold, To Warm up.— This fish when warmed. up,is apt fo, taste & JOH little.strong, therefore the best-way of serving it a second time. is as salad, or in a mayon- naise., If. this is not liked, remove: the flesh from the bones, and divide it into-rathér large pieces. Put these into a saucepan, season with salt and cayenns, and pour over them any 're- amains of the sauce with which it was served when cold, and heat it gradually for,.a. few minutes, but do not Jet it boil. Lift it out gently, so, as not. to break the fish, and serve on a hot dish. If there is no cold sauce, a little melted butter, flavoured with two or, three drops of essence of ' anchovies, may be,used. instead. Sufficient, if made with a pound of fish, for two persons... John Dory (en Mateléte).—Chop small | a dozen oysters—the tinned oysters may be used for this purpose—and mix them thoroughly with three: boned : anchovies, also: finely minced, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, the eighth of anutmeg; grated, four table-spoonfuls of finely- grated bread-crumbs, and three ounces of butter or chopped: stet. Mix ‘all thoroughly, add pepper and salt.to taste, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and eight table-spoonfuls of new milk. Put allinto a stewpan, stir briskly over a gentle fire until the: mixture thickens, then fill the Dory with the forcemeat, and sew up the slit... Put the fish into a saucepan, barely cover it with cold water, and put with it a turnip, a carrot,.a, bunch of savoury herbs, a large sprig of parsley, a quarter, of a pint-of space: hal a tea-spoonful of bruised celery-seed, and | a. table- spoonful of salt. Boil gently until the. fish is sufficiently cooked. Serve on a hot dish, and send the following sauce to table in a tureen with it :—Melt a piece of ‘butter the size of an egg in a saucepan, fry in this three small onions, sliced very thin, add:a table-spoonful-of minced parsley, and another of minced chives, a table-' spooniul of mushroom ketchup, a glass of claret, and a glass:of thé liquid im which the fish was boiled. Stew gently for a fewminutes until the onions are done, strain through ‘a '¢loth, and then add half a pint of good brown sauce.’ Boil’ until the sauce coats the spoon. A few drops of essence of anchovy and the juice of half a’ lemon, may be added, if liked: ‘Time, a quarter! ofan hour after boiling for a moderate-sized fish. Probable cost of John Dory, 3s. to-5s."' Sufficient for. six or eight persons. . ee ses hy ee oe John Dory, Sauce for.—When red mullet are plentiful, and this they .are. very much 'so occasionally, a good sance'for the John Dory may be made by boiling one, pounding the flesh, rubbing it through a hair sieve, and mixing it with half a pint of melted butter. Time, ten minutes to boil the mullet. John, Oxford, (see Oxford John). Johnny or Journey Cakes.—Take a’ pint of Indian meal, mix a ‘littlé salt with it, and as much boiling water as will form'a batter. This will be about half 'a pint. -Beat it well for.sevéral minutes, then spreaddt, to about the eighth of an inch in thickness, .on a. smooth: | piece! of ‘board. Place the board: upright. in front of a clear fire, and:bake the cake: ‘When well browned, cut. it into squazes, split. these, put butter ibetweén, and send them td table as’ ee Pst ‘| the’ mixture into’ a ‘well-buttered JUG ifficidnt’ fortwo br \ Jer SO ME Wheat —about twent three persons. ben) deta 4 Dp glat told 6 Johnny or Journey Cakes, (another way).—Sce Indian Meal Johnny Cakes..jccct Johnny or Journey, Cakes (another way).—Pour a pint “of boilidg “iilk over, tea-cupful and a half of Indian meal, and beat it well for a quarter of an’ hour. Unless’ this is done the cakes will not’ ‘be, light. Add a pinch of 'sdlt,-a tea-spoonful of carbonate’ sf soda, a table-spoonful of flour, two table-spoon- ftils of sdur milk, a beaten egg, and a table: spoonful of oiled butter. This will make''a batter of the consistence of that used for'pan- cakes. Johnny cakes are best baked in a spider (a deep iron pan) on: the. stove..: When; this is not convenient, they may;be,spread in buttered pans, the eighth, of an inch .in thickness, and baked in a quick oven,.. When well . browned, split the cakes, put butter between them, and serve as hot as possible. Time, bake till well- browned—about twenty minutes. Sufficient: for four or five persons. Po sybhe Josephine Cake.—Beat four _ountds a fresh ‘buttér: to 'a ‘cream, mix with it three y minutes. ‘a Ht ounces of pounded and sifted sugar, which, before being powdered, has, been well. rubbed ‘upon the rind of half a fresh lemon. Ad _ three well-beaten eggs, half a pound of biscyi flour,’a quarter of 4 pound of picked currants | and two table-spoonfuls of sherry or madeira, Beat ‘all! well together for some minutes, put. into. a ‘we mould, and, ;bake in a good oven. ‘Time, forty, minutes to, bake.’ Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 10d. Sufficient for thres or four persons, or a oo See small‘mould, | ena nak We _ Jubilee Pudding.—Take half,a;pound of. spongecake, rather stale than .otherwise, and: ‘cut it into thin, slices.,, Butter ene side, and spread, the other,either with. orange marmalade: \or, apricot jam, then. place the slices in layers: in a plain round mould, buttered side down! ‘wards.,,.Pour three-quarters of aipint ;of good! custard, over ,each, layer, and repeat until the mould is full, | Let. the pudding soak: for'an hour, then bake in a quick, oven, and turnioutn before serving. Wine or brandy sauce may-bel sent to, table with it. Time,.an hour anda: quarter to bake. Probable cost,,Js.. 6d.’ Suffi- cient for four or five persons... ! oe _ Judy’s Pudding.—Shred a quarter of ‘a pound of beef suet very finely. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a table-spoonful of flour, two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, two well-beaten'eges, and d'table- spoonful of ‘brandy or whisky. “When: these ingredients’ are’ thoroughly blended, pour the mixture into a well buttered mould; lay ‘a buttered paper over it, tie it in a floured ¢loth, ' and boil for one-hour and a half, ‘Turn ‘the pudding out, of the mould before serying, and pour brandied sance round it.,.; Probable, cost, , exclusive of the brandy, 6d. Snflicient for three ii or four persons, , er nt ba de vie Jugged Gravy.—Cut a pound and a'lialt of the shin of beef and thrée ‘ounces of lean’: hot as possible. Time, bake until well browned ‘ ham ‘into small pieces, Roll them: lightly in dun ( BAS ) KAL Aour and put them into a deep, earthen jar, with | an onion stuck with three cloves, a sliced, carrot, , a shallot, half a tea-spoonful of pounded celery-, seed, tied’ in tiuslix;‘half’ ‘dozen peppercorns, a bunch of sweet herbs,'n ‘sliée'bf bread toasted. hard and. brown, half: a .,blade, of ; mace. | Penne these pine ¢ . water; g ee “falds of paper aver, the top of the jar to prevent the | steam escaping, and, bake in,a,moderate oven for six hours. ‘Strai .the gravy. ,, Let it get. quite cold, so that ‘the dat, may he. effectually Temoyed, and, before Serving add a table- spoonful of mushroom ketchup and. a; table- spoonful of port., A moderate oven is the best. Probable cost, 1s, 8d, Sufficient for a pint and | ahalf of gravy,, 6; |. po | Julienne Soup.—Také three carrots, three turnips, the white part of'a head of celery, three onions, and three leeks.’ Wash''and dry the vegetables, and cut them into thin shreds, which should be not more than’ otié!inch in length. Place the shreds in a stewpan with two'ounces of butter'and a small pinch of pourided’ pea and stir them over a slow fire until ‘slightly browned. Pour over them three quarts. of clear stock (see Stock) ) and simmer gently for‘an hour, or until the vegetables are tender. Carefully remove the scum and grease, and half an hour before the soup, is done enough, add two.lumps of sugar, with two pinches of salt, and two pinches of pepper, if required, two cabbage let- tutes, twelve leaves of sorrel, and twelve. leaves of ‘chervil, cut in the same way as. the, other vegetables, after being immersed. in boiling water for'a minute. Boil half an hour longer, skim carefully, and serve. , Send bread fried. in: dis to table, and servé as hot ag possible It must be remembered that quick boiling would thicken and spoil this soup, which ought to be a clear brown:': To save time’there is ‘an instru- ment to be:-bought calléd a ‘rasp, which’ is specially adapted for ‘cutting the roots rapidly inteithe proper: form. ‘Julienne is scasonable for nine‘months of the year only. In January, February; and March the carrots, turnips, and’ léeks. required for it are hard dnd ‘stringy. There: are, howevér,' vegetables to'be bought ready.cut; preserved, and dried, but these are muchiinferior in flavour to '-fresh vegetables. In'summer time French beans, green pee and ° asparagus‘ tops' may be put in, but they must - be boiled Noparnieigr aa! added a’ few minutes before serving. Probable cost,'exclusive of the stock, about 1s, 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons, (see Vegetables, Dried). Julep, Mint (#eoMint Julep), Julep, Pine opie A sliced ripe Pine-apple in a glass bowl, add the juice of two oranges, a gill of raspberry syrup, the same of maraschino and old, gin, a bottle of sparkling moselle, and about a pound of ice,in, shaves. When mixed, serve in flat glasses. Jumbles.—Rub the yellow part of a fresh lemon upon some lump'sugar. When dry crush it to:‘powder, and with half a pound of sugar mix half a pound of fine flour, two éggs tho- roughly whisked, and thnee ounces of fdisaalved butter. ;, Make, them up into a paste,,and add, Drop the batter on buttered: baking-tins: from .the point of a fork, and bake in aslow-oven for twenty minutes or, more.. The jumbles are done enough when crisp andilightly browned. -Pro- ‘bable: cost, 10d. "The above ingredients are sufficient for about a'dozém cakes..." bi Jumbles (another way).—Stir togethér till of a light brown colour'a pound of stigar and half a-pound of butter. Add eight eggs, beaten toa froth, ‘essence of lemon or rdse-water to taste, four enough to miake them sufficiently stiff to roll out. Roll out in powdered sugar, cut the paste into strips about half an inch wide and four inches long. Join thé ends ‘to- gether, so. as to form rings, lay therjumbles on flat tins that have, been buttered, and bake Ahem in a,quick oven. , | he. Se Jumbles (another way).—-Beat half a pound of butter to‘a cream, add:a pound. and a quarter of sugar, two pounds of flour, three: well-beaten | eggs, and-two or three'.drops of the.essence of lemon, ;\Dissolve a'small piece of saleratus'in'a little. boiling water,/and mix ‘this with half a pint of milk. Beat it up with the flour, &c., and when well, mixed: drop it in:small cakes from the end of a fork, and bake in-a quick | oven. foy. twenty-five minutes.| Probable cost, 1s, 6d... The ahove ingredients are sufficient for.about four dozen: jumbles. . Jumbles, Almond (see Almond Jumbles) Jumbles, Apricot (sé Apricot Jumbles). Junket, Deyonshira (see Devonshire Junket).. Cie cg eth aR fe he. K aint Aad 8 . de GP pede a? 1, Kale Brose.—Take an ox-heel., Cleanse it. thoroughly, and pour. over it five pints of. ‘water. Bring it. toa boil; emove:the-scum ag it,rises, and let it simmer gently for four hours, Meanwhile take two large: handfuls of greens; ‘cleansej,and free.them from insects, then shred them very. finely. Put. them into the! broth: and when sufficiently cooked, stir half a. pint of toasted oatmeal into alittle of the fat broth: It should be stirred with the handle of a spoon; and. very quickly,.so as not to. run into one. amass, butito form knots.i. Add it-to the rest,': with salt and pepper to taste, let-all: boil up to- gether, and serve as hot as possible. , Probable coat, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Kale, Sea, Boiled.—Let the kale he i cold water for half an hour, then wash and trim he. in | it; and tie in small bunches; put these into a good quantity of. toiling water with, some salt,, in it, and let the kale keep, boiling, yntil, tender. Lift it out, drain the water from it, and send it to table with melted butter ‘or’ white sauce. Time, about, a quarter ofan hour; but it may be. boiled a few; minutes longer, if. liked: well. done. Probable cost,,10d. per basket. Sufficient, four or five heads for each person... 1 Kale, Sea, Stewed in Gravy.— Wash ' and.trim the:kale, and:tie it in small bunches. Put it in boiling salt and water, and: let it boil softly for six or eight minutes; then take it out, drain it, and put.dt. into :a:saucepan, with as much good brown gravy as will-cover it. Let fg hs if required, a,.table-spoonful of thick cream. ‘it remain until tender;:and serve withithe gravy - KAL ( 346 ) KET in which it was stewed :poured over it. |; Pro- bable cost of kale, 10d: or more per basket. Sufficient, one‘ basket for four or five persons: ‘Kalteschale, Plum (a German dish for hot weather).—See Plum Kalteschale. Kebob.—This is an Indian: dish, and is usually made of mutton, veal, or fowl. Its peculiarity is that it is cut into ‘pieces, seasoned rather highly, then fastened together with skewers, and thus both cooked and served. For mutton kebobs, take either the lom or the best end of the neck. ‘Remove the skin and fat, and cut the meat into steaks. Mix half a pint-of fine bread-crumbs with a small nutmeg, grated, a dessert-spoonful of powdered mixed herbs, a, table-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a small pinch of cayenne. Beat the yolks of three eggs. Dip the chops into these, and afterwards into the bread-crumbs, twice. ,, Fasten them, together in the position in which they were before they were cut, put a skewer through them, tie them to the spit, and roast before a clear fire. Baste them liberally with some good dripping and the con- tents of the pan. Have half a pint of good brown gravy, thickened and flavoured, ready to | pour over the mutton before sending it to table. Time, an hour and a half to roast. Probable cost, if made with. four pounds of the loin of mutton, 4s. Sufficient for five or six | persons. ets oes : Kebobbed Curry.—Fasten ‘small pieces of veal or fowl'alternately with slices of onion and pickled pork upon skewers, as in the last recipe. meat, and fry it, with a thinly-sliced* onio#, in butter, until lightly browned. Mix a ‘table- spoonful of curry-powder smoothly with a pint of gravy, and simmer it gently with two small onions, a clove of garlic, and an acid apple, Sprinkle a little turmeric.over .the | until the vegetables are sufficiently’ tender to | pass through a sieve. Put the gravy and the meat into a saucepan, season with salt and pepper, add a bay-leaf, and. stew until ‘the gravy is considerably reduced arid very rich: Serve on a hot dish. Time, a few minutes to fry the meat; an hour and a half to stew the gravy. Probable cost, 3s. - Sufficient for three or four persons. ow Yee Kebobbed Curry (another way).—See Curry, Kebobbed. ¥ ; PIS Kebobbed: Meat. CD to Serve with (see Catcharee Sauce). Kebobbed’ Mutton or Veal.—Take two pounds of lean’ veal or mutton the third of an inch thick.': Cut these into pieces about Cutcharee ‘Sauce two inches square, and season them ‘well with | pepper, salt, and mixed spices. Slice two or three ‘small ‘onions or shallots very thinly, dip the meat into clarified butter, and ‘put three or four pieces on a small skewer, with a little slice of onion or ‘shallot between each. - Fasten the skewers on a spit, and ‘roast before a clear fire. Baste liberally, and serve the meat on a hot ‘dish, with rice boiled as for curry'round it:' If preferred, Tittle ‘pieces of pickled pork’ can ‘be put.with the veal... When this is done, the clarified butter may he dispensed with.’ Time, | three-quarters.of an hour to,roast: Probable cost, 2s. #d.: Sufficient for. three.or four persons. bl peat ete way oA Kedgeree.—Kedgeree, ‘or! kidgeree; is an Indian''dish, generally used' for breakfast; it may be nidde of such fish as turbot, salmon, brill, soles, John'Dory, whiting, and shrimps. Boil three-quarters of'a pound of rice in’ the same way as for curry.’ When soft-and dry, put it into a saucepan, first with'two ounces of butter, and afterwards with a quarter of a pound of the flesh of the fish, freed''from skin and'bone, and divided'into small pieces. Season with cayenne, salt, and pepper — as much as’ may be’ required:“’ Stir the ‘kedgerce over the fire until quite hot, then add two well-beaten eggs, mix thoroughly, and. serve at once. Time, until very hot, without’ boil- ing. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. : a a: Kedgerée, Fish (see Fish Kedgeree), .Kentish. Cherries, Compdte of (sce Cherries, Kentish, Compote of), © '' Kentish Suet Pudding,— Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very finely, add a pinch'of salt, and ten ounces of fine flour; mix thoroughly, and make up into a paste, by the addition of an egg beaten up with alittle cold water. ‘Put the whole into a floured cloth, tie it securely, plunge it! into’ boiling water, and boil quickly for an hour and a half. This pudding is very good with a jar of jam emptied over it, or eaten with hot gravy and ‘boiled meat. If any is left, it may be ‘toasted before the fire until brightly browned, dnd served with the same accompaniments.as before. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons.’ Kerry Buttermilk.—Hang three quarts of buttermilk, tied in a cheesecloth, in a cool airy situation. Put;a basin under it for. the whey to drip into,and let it remain for three days. Mix a glassful of brandy with, the thickened whey,-and ;half « pound,,or more, | if liked, of raspberry, jam.,, Stir in alittle pounded sugar, whisk thoroughly, and serve in’ a’'glass dish. Probable” cost, 8d.,‘ exdlu- sive of the brandy. Sufficient for' half a dozen ‘persons. as ey ee , Ketehup.—Good home-made ketchup is a most valuable addition to the storeroom, and a good housekeeper will always look ‘with pride upon it as it stands, in closcly-corked bottles, neatly labelled, upon her shelves, feeling, as she may that she possesses close at hand the means of imparting a delicious flavour to her sauces and gravies without at the same time placing any ies nigel compounds before her friends. Though excellent, preparations are'no doubt sold by respectable dealers, the superiority of ketchup when. made at_home is undisputed, and the comfortable cettainty attending its use is so great, that we would earnestly recommend every lady-who has! the time and opportunity to do s0,:to superintend: personally the manu- facture of that which: is used ‘in her kitchen. It is not well, however, to make’a very Jarge quantity, as it is rarely improved: by beixp long kept. Ketchup should be stored in a cool KET dry place; the ‘corks ‘should “either ‘be: covered with résin,‘or a small piece of bladder should be tied over each one, and the liquid should’ be ‘ex- amined frequently, and.if there are the slightest pers of ener or ; mould, it; should: he xe-boiled with a few, peppercorns, and, put into fresh..dry hottles,,.1t is. perhaps needless. to observe that ‘great. care must be taken that, the mushrooms are of.:the edible kind. ‘These may be Jmown by: theix, plegsant..smell, by the skin parting. easily from; the edges,and: middle, by the upper part. and ithe stalk being, white, and by: the colour of,.the under side, whichis pink or -salmon-coloured.when..the , mushroom. is young, cand afterwards, turns.to a black or. dark rown. : Shara tind ay tae 1 “Ketchups. — Recipes, for making “the following ketchups will be found under their respective headings :— ANCHOVY j.::) 3. .1,,-MusHRoom , CucuMBER Mussen -'" EtperBerry Mvstarua * Fisu Oyster “Irtsq Watnur’ Tomato ‘Lemon “WaLnur ny -' Kew Mince, or Haggis Royal..—Cut one.pound of lean. meat yom a cold roast. leg: of mutton. Mix it. with:half,,a pound of finely- shred suet, four table-spoonfuls of finely-grated pbread-crumbs,: one. boned .anchovy, ione.:tea- . spoonful.of minced parsley, half a tea-spoonful of chopped lemon-rind,:one.small_tea-spoonful of ~salt, and. half a, tea-spoonful: of, pepper. When ,'‘the dry !ingredients, are. , thoroughly plended,. add a. Seine elasetul OF port ox. claret, and the yolks of four well-beaten eggs. Put the | mixture "neatly into a veal ‘caul (or when this cannot be produred, put it into a saucepan), and ‘pake in a quick oven.'' Serve ‘as hot’ as possible, ‘with half a' pint of good brown gravy in the dish. | Tine, threé-quarters of an hour to bake. Pro- bable cost, exclusive of the wine, Is. 8d.’ Sufi- | cient for four or five persons. Be Te oe /Kid.—A young sucking kid,: well cooked, forms:an, excellent dish, and ie,generally dressed whole, like a hare. If grown to, any size, it should be jointed before. cooking. As it.is a dry 'meat it) should’ be’ either foaked in a marinade for a few hours, and afterwards hung up, for'a day or,two, or larded ‘before’ being roasted. The thatinadée may be ‘matle!'of' one | pint of ‘vinegar, oné pirit of dold water, halfa | pint of port, two ounces of salt, two ounces | ‘of moist sugar, twelve peppercorns, and a bay- leaf. ‘Place the kid in this, baste it frequently, and wash'it in the ‘marinade once or ‘twice | whan it is hung up after being taken out, """" : Kid (a la Poulette).—Soal a-young kid in milk''and water for four hours: Drain it, ‘ind strips of fat bacon: round it, and roast before: a; {clear: fire for three-quarters of an hour. Take it down, and-cut a neat piece, | weighing about ‘two pounds, from it, leaving ‘the rest ‘to hashy or cook at: some -other time. | Put ‘the piece cut: off. mto ai saucepan, swith, a . pint. of veal stock, a'tea-spoonful-of salt, half.a ( 347 ) KID tea-spoonful of: pepper, half a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, .a dozén ‘button-mushrooms, a bunch of-parsley, and a piece of' butter, the size of an egg, rolled in flour...Let it stew gently for dn hour ; then take ‘out the meat, place it on a hot dish, strain the sauce, let it boil up‘orice more, then: draw it to,the side-of the. fire: to cool for two minutes, and. add gradually the well-beaten yolk of an egg, mixed with a table- spoonfuliof thick cream. The sauce must, not boil after the egg is. added, or it will curdle. Pour the sauce over the kid,and serve as hot as, possible., .Garnish the dish with parsley and cut lemon:,,. Probable cost, uncertain, kids being: seldom, offered for sale. Sufficient. for four: persons... Mee Si a ey nA : , : _ Kid, Hashed.—Takt about two pounds of the remains ofa cold roast kid—if under-dréssed so, much the better. Cut it into neat slices, and ut it into a covered dish until wanted. Put a -pint of géod veal stock’ jnto'’a saucepan, with an outice and 4 half of butter, rolled in floiir, ‘a _ | tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, half a blade of mace, a sprig of parsley, | and a shallot. Simmer gently for half an hour. Strain the gravy, add a wine-glassful of port, a table-spoonful of’ ‘mushroom ketchup, a tea- spoonful of lemon-juice, and a lump of sugar. ut,in the slices of kid, let them get quite hot without ‘boiling ‘the gravy, and'serve imme- diately. Spinich’ “Geenowers, or French beans, are excellent as accompaniments to this dish. Probable cost, exclusive of the gold kid and wine; 1s. Sufficient for four or five persons. ES pai Res : i "Rid, Roast.—Soak the kid in’a marinade, as directed above 3’ a thet’ bind strips of fat. bacon round if, and cover it with buttered paper. Put it down ‘to a Clear ‘fire, and baste liberally. About ‘half an‘hour'before it is done enough, remove the paper and bacon, dredge some flour over the, kid, ‘and’-continue the basting as before. Dissolvé one table-spoonful of red-currant jelly in half 4pint. of mutton gravy, add .a wine-glassful of claret, and send the sauce to table in a tureen. Time, according ta size: to roast avery young ‘sucking kid will take about, an hour and a half. | Probable cost, uncertain, ‘kids ‘being’ seldom’ ‘off ered, for sale. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Mia “Ry y "idnéy and Beef Steak Pudding (see Beef Steak and Kidney Pidding). Z “Kidney and Liver | Pudding,—A good pudding may be made with equal weights of ox kidney-and, liven, as follows :—Take three- quarters of a pound of each. Cut them imto slices, and season with, salt and cayenne.. Fry these with two ounces of.bacon, cut small, and two.ounces of dripping. When lightly browned, pour over them by degrees three-quarters of a pint of water, or stock, mixed. with .a,tablo- spoonful of flour. Line a pudding-basin with algood crust, put.in the meat and gravy, when nearly. boiling, place the, lid. over, pinch the edges securely, tie: the, basin in a floured cloth, plunge it: into boiling water, and boil quickly until the pudding is,done enough. Serve ag hot aa possible. Boil two hoursiand a‘half. Cost, about 2s,. Sufficient for four or five persons. KID Kidney Beans (see Beans, French or Kidney). Sei gpl Kidney Beans, White, Frieasseed. —Take one “pint of ‘either fresh or-dry white kidney'beans. -Remove the skins; and in order to do this, the beans, if dry, must be soaked in water for ten ‘or twelve hours, and afterwards boiled until tender, when the: skins will slip off. If fresh, they must ‘be put into scalding water for a minute, and the skins peeléd off. Put the beans into a:saucepan, add as ‘much good veal stock as will cqver them, with half a tea-spoon- ful of salt,.a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, the, eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, a large bunch of parsley, a small one of thyme, and a piece of fresh butter, rolledin flour. Sim- mer gently for fifteen minutes; then take ont the herbs, and put into the sauce a glass of sherry. Let it boil, then draw it from the fire a minute to cool, and stir into it the yolks of two eggs, mixed with half a cupful of thick cream, and. the strained juice of half a lemc ne Serve on a hot dish,, and garnish with French beans, pickled. Time, half an-hour to stew the | taken. off. | beams, after the skins have been Probable cost, 2d. or 38d. per pint. for three or four persons. Kidney Fritters.—Make batter with four well-beaten eggs, mixed with half a pint , ‘of new milk, and flavoured with a little pepper, | salt, and pounded mace. Stir into. this a téa- | spoonful each of finely-shred chives, parsley, and | mushrooms, and a table-spoonful of the remains of a cold veal kidney finely minced, and mixed with half its weight of fat. Beat together for two or three minutes, then melt an ounce of ' ‘butter in the frying-pan, pour in the mixture, and stir it until it is set. When it:is browned on oné side, turn it on a hot dish, hold a sala- mander or red-hot shovel:over it for a minute or two to colour it on the other, and ‘serve immediately: Time, five or.six mimites.. Pro- -bable cost, 1s. Sufficient for three persons. .. eins Ws et ee Gatti. EET, oe oe, a>, a i Kidney Gravy.—Take an ox kidney, or if preferred, four sheeps’ kidneys, cut into slices, : dredge these’ with flour, and fry them lightly in butter, with a thinly-sliced onion and a bunch of sweet herbs. Move'them about getitly - until nicely browned, thén ‘pour -over them pint of water. “Simmer geritly for an houranda . half, strain, and set aside for use. Time, six minutes to fry the meat:, Probable cost, 1s/ 6d. Sufficient for oné pint of gravy. Nes tl Sufficient Kidney Irish Stew.—Take the hard. core out of the middle of an ox kidney, and cut it into pieces'about one and a half inches square. Season with salt and pepper, and put it into a ' saucepan with an onion’ finely minced, and a. | quarter of a pint of water, or stock. Let. the liquid boil, and remove ‘the’ scum ‘carefally ; ‘then put half a dozen large peeled potatoes into the pan, and simmer gently until they are suffi- ciently cooked, but unbroken. Put the kidney in thé middle of 'a' dish, arrange the potatoes round it, pour the gravy over all, and serve as hot as possible. Time, one hour to simmer the stew. Probable cost, 1s.6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. : ( 348 ) RED | Kidney Omelet.—Tike the eae cold véal Kidney; or if this is not’ dt hand, ‘cut ' a fresh. one into slices, and jfiy it over;,a; clear | fire for ‘three or-dour, minutes... Mince it) very | finely, season: with .salt and, cayenne, and,;mix, two table-spoonfuls of the mince withithe well, | heaten yolks of sixiand the.whites of three eggs, | Add-three ounces of fresh butter, broken;smail. Put two ounces of butter in,an omelet-pan,des it remain ona slow fire until it bubbles, then pour in the mixture,jand: stir briskly. for, three or four:minutes until: the eggs are set. , Fold,the edges: of the; omelet, over neatly, and turn it carefully upon a hot dish. Serve immediately,, If too:much cooked: it will, be; tough, .;. Pro- bable: cost, 1s. Sufficient for. three, or-four persons. vs hives : 2 TK Kidney, Ox, Stewed.—Cut a fresh's kidney into slices the eighth of an inch ‘in thickness, soak them for:a tew minutes ap like- warm. water; drain, and dry'them thoroughly in a cloth. Season':them with .a' littlé/ pepper, dredge: flour thickly over!'them, and_fry them in three ounces. of hot butter, or drippizigy until they are brightly browned. Pour over.thém as much. cold water or stock’as will coyer them, and add.a dessert-spoonful of. vinegar'in which onions have been. pickled, or, if this. is not: at hand, plain vinegar or lemon-juice ; a finely- minced shallot, a table-spoontul. ‘of chopped parsley, anda little. salt: and icayennes: Stew gently till:done,and thickemthé: gravy before serving it. Half ajtea-spoonful of mixed mustard may be stirred into the sauce before itis taken from the fire, if.this is liked. Time to stew) two hours. Probable: cost, 1s: 6d. Sufficient for preg or threewpersons, yoni uitnial Kidney Pie (for breakfast or luncheon). Take four veal kidneys, and half/its bulk in fat with each. Cut them into! slices a ‘quarter ‘of an inch thick, season’ rather: highly with salt and cayenne, and add half a tea-spoonful of powdered mace'for thée'whole. Cut-the meat from a calf’s foot, and season it in the same way. Place a layer of kidney at. the'bottom of 1a pie- dish, strew' over it-two ounces of ‘finely-minted ham, and lay on this the slices of éalf’s foot. Repeat until the dish is neatly full. ». Pit. the hard-boiled yolks of six eggs and half a.dozén forcemeat balls at the top, and pour over thema quarter of a pint, of veal stock, flavoured. with lemon-juice.. Line,the edges of the dish with & good crust, cover. it with the same, and, bake in a moderate oven. Though forcemeat: ball: fresh Ox | are an improvement to the pie, they may be dispensed with. They are made as follows: — Strain ten or twelye oysters from their liquid, mince them, very finely, and mix them with four ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, .a table-spoonful of chopped /parsley, a. tea- spoonful of grated lemon-rind, and a, little salt, cayenne, and mace. Mix these ingredients thoroughly... Bind them together with the un- beaten yolk of. an egg and a little of thé oyster liquor, make them into balls, and they are ready for use. This pie, which is generally a favourite, should be eaten cold. A good pie may ,be made with cold Kidney and a few slices of the kidney-fat from a cold loin of veal, instead of fresh kidneys. Time, from an hour KID ( 349 ) KIT and,a,half,to two hours to;bake Probab e ogst, | Season it with half a ida-apoontil of salt, halt 3s, 6d. Sufficient, ‘or, six, Tees eee _ | a'tea-spoonful of pepper, the “finely-gfated rind “Kidney: Pudding.—Cut the -hard' core out’ ot! the edntre-of am’ ox: kidney, and divide the mba. into -piecds:an' inch’ square. -Sedson these with ‘pepper and salt; and, if liked, add an onion ‘and two: ounces: of «beef suet; finely mined: ‘Make some'pastry, with three-quarters of a pound ‘of flour, half a pound of good drip- ping, and as‘much water'as' is required./' Roll it out, line'a pudding-basin with it; and put in | the slices of meat. Pour over them a.tea:cupful of cold’ water, place a cover of: pastry on ithe top, pinch'the edges securely; tie’ the pudding in a floured ‘cloth, and plunge it into’ boiling water.'- Boil quickly. ‘Turn’ the. ‘pudding. out when cooked enough, and serve very hot.: ‘lime, three hours to boil. Probable cost, 1s...6d. Sifiint forfour peri 9 “PSUR -. Kidney: Pudding: (another. way).—This pudding may also: be:made. of: mutton, veal, or jamb... Make the pastry as directed: in.the'last receipe. Line: a; pudding-basin’ ‘with iit; and slice half.ajdozem kidneys. (Season them with salt! and cayenne, and sprinkle over 'them:a dessert+spoonful of powdered ‘herbs, of -which tiwo-thirds..should:. be’ parsley and ‘one-third | thyme. -' Put them in ‘the basin, pour over them | two.or three: table-spoonfuls of good veal stock and a iglassful of lighb!wite; cover them with the -crust;:pinch ‘inthe edges securely, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and: keep it' boiling quickly until it is: cookekerough.. Serve as-hotas:possible.' | Time te sboil, threéthours.: Probable’ cost, 28. Suf- ficient} for four or five persons. | Kidney, Rissoles of.—Take the remains | of, an-oxikkidney; cut.some thin \liges, from | at, ‘weigh ‘them; and to half a pound of kidney puthalf-a-pound of lean boiled ham... Mince the mest_very finely, season with pepper and | salt, and, moisten! it with’ the. yolk of an egg! ‘well beaten: Roll: out. half a. pound. of-the | trimmings of puff paste to the thickness of the | eighthiof.an inch. ‘ Divide the mince into small balls, roll. each one;in paste; and fry them. in. hot'fat': till they ate brightly browned... Serve. ag: hot'!as possible, and garnish with parsley. | ‘Fime,:three or four minutes to fry. 1) ..Probable | cost, 1s..6d.; Sufficient for four or, five persons. “Kidney Soup. —thin ie Scasen these with salt and pepper, . dredge a little flour over them, and fry them in butter’ until they are ‘nicely browned. Pour overt ther a8 much boiling water as will’ cover | them; ‘and simmer 'gétitly for an hour.” Take out the’kidney, cut it into small pieces, and re- turn it to the saucepan, together with two quarts - of stock) two’ turnips, two ‘carrots, one’ onion, | thrée'sticks of celery, all cut small, and ‘@ small wtivcl of ‘savoury herbs, Simmer slowly ‘for an | hour atid & half, ‘ther take out the herbs; add a | tabléspoonful ‘of "mnshroom ketchup, and a Tittlé‘salt and ‘popper, Sf required, ‘aid ‘thicken the goup with a’ lump’ of butter rolled’ in flour. pote cost, 18. 6d. Ber quart. ‘Sufficient for ‘Kidney (Toast.;-Pound a co di: veal. kid- nen wie fat which, surroundsit,ina mortar, | — Cut an ox kidney into |. ‘a:couple, of eggs “woo spoonful, o _water, oF , A of a quarter of a lemon, and two or threb'grates of nutmeg., Mix it, with the, white of an ege, well whisked. ‘Lay it, upon. pieces of toast; cut into. squares. Cover, with. the -yolk of the egg; well beaten, ;and strew, bread-crumbs. over. Melt. one ounce of butter in a.dish, put in. the toasts, and place them in a hot.oven to ‘bake; Serve as hot.as possible. . Time, a quarter of an hour. to bake the toasts. ‘Probable icost, 8d; Sufficient for three or four persons. a ‘ Kidneys ‘(8 la Tartare).—Broil five or six kidneys. Put them on a hot dish,‘and'serve the following sauce with them;' which shouldbe preparéd’' before the’ kidneys ‘areiput.on to broil :—Beat the ‘yolk of an''eg¢ for two or thie’ minutés. AWd' Very grddially, it drops at, first, six tea-spoonfuls of oil, and then oné of ‘tarragon vinegar. Béat ‘the’ mixture’ well Hetween every addition, of’ the oil will float’ at thé top. | Répeat uiitil the satice'is of the con- sistence of thick cream. ‘Four table-spoonfuls d£ ‘oil, and one of ‘vinegar, will be ‘about: the quantity réquired.’ A‘dd:a pinch of salt, a small pinch’ of ‘cayenne’ pepper, ‘a table-spoonful: of unmixed French mustard, five or ‘six gherkins, three shallots, ae “minced, a ee each of chopped chervil, tarragon, and burmet, ch half tea-spoonful 6h CA vinegar." Pug a tea-spoonful of this sauté in thé hollow ‘of éach kidney, and send the rest to ‘table in a tureen, ‘Time, six minutes to broil the kidney, about. three-quarters of an hour to prepare the sauce, ; ,Sufticient for four or five persons. Probable eae . EY: le cost, Bd.eagh, i Kidneys,:Minced.—Chop an, ox kidney into pieces the size of a:pea, season them rather highly: with isaltand cayenne, and fryi them .in two: ounces of: hot. butter :for,a quarter of an hour, moving them. about frequently in the pan, that. they. may be equally cooked... Moisten' the mince with. one table-spoonfil of. good brown gravy, and three table-spoonfuls of champagne, stew afew minutes longer and serve in a.hot dish!‘ 4 nh ede VVBIR SOME pin? BENE. fin UE he (ek Mie fed 4 SEA i ah Kidneys, Mutton. (see Mutton, Kidneys). Kitchen, Mixed Spice, for White Sauce.—Take the grated rind of half a lemon, half a nutmeg, grated, an ounce, of white pepper, and a tea-spoonful of powdered mace. Mix thoroughly. If not quite fine, pound, all togethér in a mortar, and keep in a closely- stoppered bottle until wanted for use. Probable cost, 4d. for: this quantity.:, When; using “kit- chen mixed spice, put half a'tea-spoonful into.a pint, of sauce, and taste if more is required... |, : wr ape ay eo GI) nce RW den, | EAE - Kitchen Utensils (se Utensils, &c.).... _ Kitchener’s Salad’ Mixture. '—'Boil col Y for twelye minutes, and put them in a basin, of cold water for a, ‘tow minutes; the yollts must jhe quite cold, and hard, or they will not ingorporgty with fac. ea fal’ 6 1n- : if Ser, Th Op redients. Rub them through a sieve with a den teats aad mig, thal with | a table- ful of water, or fine double /creain, the d two table-spoonfuis of, oil, or melted butter ; ue Be KIT’ when these are well mixed, add by degrees a teaspoonful of salt, or powdered lump sugar, and’ the same of made mustard. ‘When these ingre-~ dients are smoothly united; add very gradually three table-spoonfuls of vinegar, rubit with the other ingredients till it is thoroughly incor-. porated with them; cut up the white.of the egg,- and garnish the top of the salad withit. Let the sauce remain at the bottom of the bowl, and. do not stir'up the: salad till it.is to be eaten.. If the herbs be young, freshly gathered, neatly’ trimmed, and. drained dry, and the sauce maker ponders patiently. over these directions, he cannot fail obtaining the fame. of. being a very. accomplished salad dresser. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for.a good-sized bowl.of salad. 'Kitchéner’s Store Sauce, Supeér- lative ' { or fish, ‘poultry, game, &c:).—Take' a pint of claret or port, a pint of mushroom’ ketchup, half a pitt of walnut or lemon pickle, four ounces of pounded anchovies, an ounce of frésh lemon-peel pared very thin, an ounce of scraped horseradish, an ounce of’ finely minced shallots, half an ounce of tpdwdered black ipep- per, half an. ounce of. allspice, a -drachm of cayenne-or three drachms of curry-powder—- and a drachm of bruiseil celery-seed: i ‘Put: these into a wide-mouthed bottle, and let them remain for a fortnight, shaking them. every day. At the end of that time'strain, and put into small: bottles: for usé....Probable-cost, 2s.,' exclusive of the wine. . Sufficient,'.a ‘table. spoonful for a quarter of a pint of melted butter | or gravy.: BAS a alk cise Hat May uate’ Klésse.—These dishes, which are’ purely German, are composed of ‘small light balls, boiled in’ water, gravy, or milk, and served hot, either as a garnish for other dishes or by themselves. They are generally! composed of the crumb of bread, grated or soaked, potatoes, or rice and eggs, and they may'be almost. indefinitely varied’ with fish, ’méat, poultry,’ herbs, liver, fruit, &c.’ In making them, ‘care’ should te'taken to handle the klésse as lightly - as possible, and to keep dipping the fingers in- cold water whilst shaping them into balls. They should be dropped gently into the boiling liquid, simmered gently for eight or ten minutes, and served immediately they are taken out.' The following is'a simple recipe for Klisse:—Take six ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, season them with half a tea-spoonful of salt’ and a little nutmeg, and mix them with four ounces of' fresh butter, which has been beaten to a’ Add three well-beaten eggs, mix. cream. thoroughly, shape into small balls, as they will swell in cooking, and drop them gently from a wet spoon into boiling water. Serve as soon asthey ‘are taken out, either in soup, or as a garnish for. vegetables; or they may be. | piled in a pyramid in the middle of a hot dish, with fried potatoes round, them. , ‘Time, eight or ten minutes to boil.,, Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. ; no Klésse Bread, with Thyme.—Beat two ounces of fresh butter to'a cream, mix with it a table-spoonful of flour, the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, twelve ounces of grated roll, and a little salt and nutmeg. Add sufficient powdered thyme to season; according to taste. ( 350°)! KRY “Mix thoroughly;' and when réady ‘for cooking, ‘add the whites of the four eggs, beaten to a firm ‘froth. Shape the klésse into’small balls about the size'of a walnut, and: drop them from a wet’ ‘spoon into boiling’/salted’ water... Simmer’. igently, and serve immediately they are taken ‘out. Time, fifteen minutes to, boil,, Prohable ,cost, 10d. Sufficient for half 4 dozen persons. ' Klosse,' Seasoned’! (to ‘bé eaten with. ‘eggs:and bacon).—Chop a small onion as finely as possible. Mix with it two ounces of! fat: bacon, finely minced, and a tea-spoonful of pow- ideredsagé. Mix these ingredients thoroughly: with three-quarters of a' pound of grated bread= crumbs, a table-spoonful of flour, a little pepper’ and. nutmeg, and the well-beaten yolks of four eges. When ready for'éookting, add the whites’ lof the eggs, beaten to'a firm froth. Boil ‘in. ‘salt and water,'and serve piled in the middle: ‘ofa hot dish; with fried’ rashers” of bacon ‘and’ poached eggs round, ‘Time, fifteen minutes to: ‘boil! Probable’ cost,’10d.'' Sufficient for half a:- |dozen persons."' ) ~ 4 bith, ' Kneaded Cakes.—Mix a. quarter-ofia pound of. currants with ‘three-quarters: of''a’ pound of: flour, and a pinch of salt: Make up into a paste with some thick cream, knead well, roll to the thickness of half an inch, cut it into rounds with the top: of.a small teacup, and: ‘bake on ‘a griddle, or in a: brisk oven. If no ‘cream is at hand, good cakes may be made by! ‘rolling out a pound of |.puff ‘paste to' the thick- ness of a penny piece.’ Strew ‘some currants ‘and a. little moist sugar over half of these). ‘place the other half. over them, andibake as” ‘before.. These cakes arebest when’ served: hot.‘ ‘Time, ten or fifteen minutes to bake.* Probable. cost, 1s., if made! with cream; 8d. with pastry. ‘Sufficient for about two dozen cakes. i oust Kouglauffe (German) —Beat ten’ ounces’ ‘of fresh butter to a cream; add a quarter of a pound’ of fine flour, a pinch of ‘salt, a ‘tea- ‘spoonful of powdered cinnamon, a quarter of: ‘an ounce of grated lémon-peel, two ounces' of ‘pounded sugar, and two eggs; stir all’ briskly! ‘togethér for ten minutes: Mix in by degrees: three-quarters of a ‘pound of -flour’ and two | additional eggs, and keep beating ‘the paste’ quickly: with a wooden spoon as they are put ia. Dissolve! three-quarters of an ounce of German ‘yeast in a quarter of 'a /pirit of ‘thick. ‘cream; 'which has been'slightly warmed for the-- purpose. Make a hollow in the middle of''the - paste, pour in ‘the cream and yeast, and work’: all ‘thoroughly to’a smooth batter.’ Butter a quart mould, place some blanched and sliced almonds round the inside at equal distances, and bake in a moderate oven. Do not let the cake burn whilst baking. Time, bake until a skewer can be pushed easily to the bottom, and when taken out be quite dry—say from an hour and - a half to two hours. Probable cost, 2s. ‘Suffi- : cient for a quart mould. , a + ae Kringles.—Warm two ounces of; fresh; butter slightly, but not so as to melt it. . Mix it with the yolks of four and tho whites of two eggs, well beaten; ' add two ounces of sifted sugar, half a pound of four, and a pinch of salt; and knead to: a smooth. paste. ‘ ‘ ERO (( 351°) LAD Roll the paste iqut to the thickness of -half an inch... Stamp. in rounds with an. ordinary. cutter, prick the rounds, with a,fork, and bake; on buttered ting; in ai moderate oven. :, Time to- bake,..about twenty minutes. . Probable CO8t,.2 8d. Sufficient for-six or eight kringles, 41\...,., spheseet the eh Se date he ante oa Kromeskies.—-Kromeskies are croquettos cooked in the Russian manner; they are made’ ag follows:—Mince the zemains. of any, cold meat; (i fish, poultry,,.or shell-fish, as: for cro-. queties; season them, nicely, and shape them, asnsual, like.a.cork. Instead of dipping them, in}egg, and afterwards in /bread-crumbs, cut some. slices. of. cold, fat. bacon (boiled) .as thin; as writing-paper ; ,.wrap,.the croquettes, in these, dip each one in -a; little frying batter (see, Batter for Frying), fry them in hot clarified fat, . and when brown and crisp, arrange. neatly :on., a,|hot dish; garnish with fried parsley, and. serve immediately... Kromeskies. may be made according to any,of the recipes given, for, cro-, quettes, and_should: be; cooked as,above. The, following recipe will serve as a specimen, »Kromeskies of Oysters.—QOpem cate- fully one ‘dozen fresh: oysters. «Beard them, and chop them’ small; chicken: or. turkey very finely; Mix: equal: quantities, add. three: mushrooms‘ cut into small. pieces, the yolk of antegg, the! oyster: liquor, and @ table-spoonful of cream. ‘Stir the mix- ture over aislow fire until it is quite. thick; then put it ‘into.a cool place for an hour,: and when cold, roll it into croquettes the: shape and sizé of smail corks; fold thin fat. bacon: round these, dip them into. a. frying: batter, and fry them :in:hot fat until they:are| crisp and: brown. Serve piled in the centre.of a. hot dish, and garnish ‘with’ fried parsley. Time, six or eight: minutes to. fry... Probable cost, about 3s. | Sufficient for three or for persons. eg at Pa Ae ‘Kuwab Fow].—Put four cloves, a drachm of, pounded ginger, a drachm. of cayenne,,and,, half an,.ounce of coriander-seed in a mortar,;; Pound. these until quite. smooth, and mix, with them.three smal onions, finely minced: Divide a small,.chicken into. neat joints; rub them inside and out withithe, mixture, and put, them into a frying-pan, with a quarter of a pound.of,, sweet butter. Turn;them about constantly,,. and when they are. brightly browned all, over : and. sufficiently, cooked, squeeze over them. the straimed juice of a lemon, and serve as hot,as. possible: Time to, cook, half an hour. , Pro-, bable cost of chicken, 23. 6d. Sufficient. for two or three persons. .‘," eI ave 4 “au | real : ar ue a sunty ony ors veg tet } i eae ‘Ladies’ Pickle (sometimes called Ladies": Delight).Mix a quarter of a pound of Spanish’ onions, finely minced, with'a quarter of a pound of;chopped apples, and an ounce of choppéd chilies. Pour‘over them half a pint of white: wino ‘vinegar, which has: beer! boiled with: a: tea-spoonful) of salt, and) when cold put: the mixture into bottles, to.be used as a relish for: sold meat. .A stick of celery, finely: minced, is then -mince — cold |; hy many persons. considered an improvement to. | thig favourite pickle. ‘Time, half an hour to. pre-- ; pare. , Probable cost, 8d. for. this. quantity. | “Ladies’ Wine’ Biseuits (sometimes ‘called ‘Ladies’ Iips);— Mix ‘three ounces: of \ground rice and three: ounces of finely-sifted ‘sugar. ‘'Make them into:a pasté.with three fresh eggs. . Beat all thorovglily: for: some tinutes, then spread. the mixture evenly, and thinly on! paper, and bake. on a wellsoiled tin: fox twenty minutes, ‘Stamp the paste into small ornamental. shapes with an ordinary ‘pastrys! cutter, and spread over them a thin coating of, icing, preparéd'.as follows :—Beat the white‘of. an egg to a firm froth. Mix with it a quarter ite pound ‘of finely-sifted: sugar'and as much ‘cold water ag sill make it quitesmooth.; Colour part Bt this wit io or ies dee of cochineal. Spread a little on, the top of the biscuits, and put them into a cool ‘ven. until the icing sets, Keep the biscuits inja, tin box, closely covered, | until wanted for use, Time, twenty minutes, to bake. Probable cost, 7d. for this quantity. ., Lady Abbess’ Pudding.—This excel: lent pudding is sometimes called Lady Betty’s ‘Delight. Take the thin rind of:a fresh lemon, ‘and let it soak for half anchour inihalf a pint of new milk, then sweeten ‘with two :table« spoonfuls of sugar. Put ithe. whole into: as, saucepan, and when well :heated, add two large» fresh eggs and the milk.of a cocoa-nut, and put ‘the custard aside 'to-vool..:: Shred four ounces of: beefsnet very ifinely, grate:two ounces ofa ‘fresh cocoa-nut, and stone and mince six, ounces of; Muscatel raisins, Cut four ounces. of ,stgle ‘bread; into thin. slices. | Butter a plain round. mould, and, stick, raisins. upon it,in even rows. Put a slice. of bread.at the, bottom, and place upon. it a. little: suet, a few rajsins, a little chopped lemon-rind, and juice, three, grates of nutmeg, and a, little custard, and repeat until all. ‘the ingredients are used, being careful, to, place, bread and-custard at the top. Let the pudding 'sqak, for ,an hour, then, lay ar buttered: paper on the top, tie in a floured cloth, plunge into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done enough. , Turn it out carefully, and serve with the following sauce in a tureen. Mix a tea-~ spoonful of arrowrogt, very smoothly with two table-spoonfuls of.cocoa-nut milk, Pour, over it: a quarter of a pint.of, boiling syrup flavoured with lemon-rind and cinnamon, stir,all, together. until, the mixture is.nearly cold, then.add two table-spoonfuls, of cream, a few drops of, vanilla ‘essence, and..a;:-dessert-spoonful iof brandy. ‘Time to:-boil the pudding, three hours and, ‘a half. Probable: cost, with the sauce, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. fis i ‘Lady Abbess’ Puffs. — Blanch’ six7 lounces of Jordan almonds. Throw them into' ‘cold ‘water‘as the¥ atc ‘done, and ‘afterwards. ‘wipe them dry and pound then in 4 mortar, adding a few drops of rose or ‘orange-flower:' -water every now and then’ to prevent them’ joiling. Mix. with them a quarter of a.pound ‘of! finely-sifted. loaf. sugar and half an,ounce, ofdifrésh butter: Pound ;.to:.a smooth paste. Spread!this evenly.and thinly on-small buttered patty-pans, and bake;in a very slow oven until the puffs are-crisp:.. Before serving, puta little LAD ( 352 ) LAM jam into each, and cover it with whipped cream. The puffs should be cold before the jam is put intothem. Time to bake, an hour or more. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a dozen and a half puffs. Lady Fingers.—Whisk four fresh eggs thoroughly, the whites and the yokes separately. Mix smoothly with the yolks three ounces of powdered sugar and three ounces of flour, add the whites, and afterwards a quarter of a pint of rose-water. Beat all together for some minutes. Have ready a well-buttered baking- tin, form the paste upon it with a spoon in ‘fingers,’ three inches long and three-quarters of an inch wide, sift a little powdered sugar over them, let them stand five or six minutes to melt the sugar, then put them into a moderate oven, and bake until they are lightly browned. When cool, put them in pairs, and keep them in a tin canister closely covered until wanted - foruse. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two dozen fingers. Lait Sucré (see Milk, Sugared, or Lait Sucré). Lamartine’s Pudding. — Stew four large apples in a little water, with a small piece of cinnamon, until they are tender, but un- broken. Take them up, drain them, and beat them with a fork. Let them get cold, then mix with them the yolks of four eggs and the white of one, well beaten, a little pounded sugar, two or three drops of vanilla, two ounces of fresh butter, and three-quarters of a pint of cream or good milk. Linea pie-dish with good puff paste. Pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Strew sifted sugar over before serving. Apricots may be substituted for the apples in this recipe. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, when made with milk, 1s. Sufficient for four or five persons, Lamb.—House lamb (by which is meant lamb born in the middle of winter, reared under 4. LAMB, JOINTED. shelter, and fed, in a great measure, upon milk) is considered a great delicacy. It may be ob- tained from Christmas to Lady Day. At Easter, grass lamb, or lamb brought up out of doors, and fed upon grass, comes into season. Like all young animals, lamb ought to be thoroughly cooked, or it is most unwholesome. The joint should not be taken from the fire until the gravy drops from it. Lamb is usually cut into quarters, and of these the fore-quarter, which consists of the shoulder (3), the breast (5), and the neck (4), is considered the best. It should be cooked fresh, and its quality may be easily tested by the appearance of the vein of the neck, which should be ruddy or of a bluish colour. It is generally roasted, though in very young lamb, the leg, which is frequently served by itself, and makes a useful and excellent joint, may be boiled and sent to table with white sauce. The hind-quarter, consisting of the leg (1) and loin (2), is better for hanging two or three days. As, however, lamb will not keep well in unfavourable weather, or for any length of time, it should be examined daily, and the moisture carefully wiped from the joints. In order to ascertain whether or not it is fresh, place the finger between the loin and kidney. Any taint may be easily discovered by the smell. The fat of lamb should be firm and light, the lean a clear faintish white, and also firm. If the fat be yellow and the lean flabby and red, the lamb is of inferior quality, and will not keep. Where economy is a consideration, lamb should not be bought before it is five months old. ‘ amb (a4 1’Espagnole).—See Lamb, Cooked whole (sometimes called Lamb @ l’Espagnole). Lamb (ala ene) — Sce Lamb, Breast of, Braised (sometimes called Lamb a la Milan- aise). Lamb and Currant Pie.—Cut about two pounds of the breast of lamb into small, neat pieces. Put them in a pie-dish, and sprinkle over them a desert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, and three table-spoonfuls of picked currants. Beat two ergs thoroughly, mix with them a wine-glassful of sherry, and pour*them over the meat. Line the edges of the dish with a good crust, cover with the same, and bake in a moderate oven. A little white wine and sugar should be sent to table with this pie. Time, an hour and a half to bake. Probable cost, 2s. 8d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb (au Béchamel).—See Lamb, Leg of Stewed with Béchamel, or White Sauce. Lamb, Baked, and Rosemary.— Butter a baking-dish, and lay in it one or two sprigs of rosemary and two bay-leaves. Place upon these any joint of lamb weighing four or five pounds, first seasoning it with pepper and salt. Put a quarter of a pint of stock at the bottom of the pan, and place two ounces of fresh butter, divided into small pieces, here and there upon the meat. Put the dish in a moderate oven, baste the lamb frequently, and when done enough, skim the fat from the gravy, and serve it strained over the joint. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Suffi- cient for half a dozen persons. (853!) LAM “Lamb, Bladebone of, Broited.— | Time) an hour and’ half. Probable cost, ‘Pake'a cold ‘shdulder of lamb ‘weighing from ‘\twe to'three pounds; and score the flesh to the bones in squares about an inch apart. Make a. ‘powder by mixing together 4 tea-spoonful’ of. silgalt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and half a tea- ‘spoonful ‘of dry mustard. Rub'this well into. -the flesh, then place the meat on a,hot gridiron, “put it four or five inches above a Clear lire, and, ‘“b¥oll it ‘first on‘one side and ithen‘ on thé other until it is hot throughout.'' Place it on a hot ‘dish, brush it' over with clarified butter, squeeze. “the ‘juice of: a’ lemom ‘upon it, and ‘serve as) ‘thot as possible.’ If preferred, the meat can: be! egged and bread-crumbed before being broiled. , ‘Time! to broil, abot a quarter ‘of an hour.! The hot’ mixture should be rubbed into the joint some hours before it is boiled), ‘ st OR A Mien, ait ease tone ete TASES og. By glee e cki tien Ssleseea . Lamb, Boned, Quarter of.—Take the: “hone from a quarter of,Jamb,, being careful to keep the knife close to the, hone, spread over! the meat, half a, pound of veal forcemeat, roll it round securely, skewer it, firmly, and, bind ,it| ‘with tape. Put it down to a clear, fire, and ‘baste liberally, with good beef or. mutton, fat.’ Send mint sauce to table with it. Time, to gpa the lamb, twenty minutes to, the pound. | ‘robable cost, 1s. 1d. per pound. , Sufficient for | eight or nine persons, |; ec dete Lamb Brains and Tongue.--Take.the \ L ae we} tongue from.the head after it has been boiled, ‘and put it into a saucepan with as much’ old water a8 will cover it, Wash’ the brains’ in lukewarm water, pick the: fibres from them, and jtie them in a,.piece of. muslin, with:a T| |, and dessert-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and . boil all together for a quarter of an hour. Take out the brains, chop them ‘small, season them with a little pepper and’ salt, and put ‘them into 2 saucepan With a! quarter of ‘4 pint of ¢ream, and ‘half’ an’ ounce’ of fresh ' butter rolled in flour. Stir them over the fire, and let them “boil a mirute or two, then''skin | the torigue, place it on a hot dish, and ‘serve ‘the brains ‘round it. Probable’ cost, ‘10d. Suffi- cient for one person. ae ae as ; Lamb, . Braised.—Bone. a shoulder of lamb, fill up the opening with forecemeat, skewer it..securely, and. braise tit! for two: hours over a slow ‘fre. Serve on spinach or: sorrel prepared 'in ‘the usual! way. Probable: cost, about 1s. Sufficient for fourior five persons. t, Lamb, Breast’ of, and Peas. — Remove. the skin from 2. breast! of lamb, + cut away part of the . fat, and dir ide into neat piecés. “Dredge a. little fiir’ these, put. them into a‘stéwpan with an ounce of fresh butter, and let ‘then’ remain ‘until they are lightly browned on both sides; then pour over them ds 'tnuch warm water as will’ cover. them ; adda bunch of parsley’ and a small onidn, and simmer gently until the meat is three-parts eooked.' Skim off the fat, take out the onion and parsley, and eae ‘the latter’ finely. Return it to the grayy with a pint and a half of green’ peas.” Add a Tittle pepper and salt, and simmer again until the peas are tender. Place the heat ona hot ‘dish, powr the gravy and peas over it, atid-servé as ‘hot as possible. 23—N.E. ‘10d. per pound. ‘Sufficient’ for three or ‘four persons. So = ee fe ae ‘Lamb, Breast of, Braised (sometimes called Lamb & la Milanaise)—Take the ye from, a, breast, of lamb, and. scald it, for, two or three minutes in boiling water... Drain i, and plunge At at: once into cold water. , Peel a lemon, veut it into thin slices, lay|these,on the, breast, fterwards cover it. all: over, with bacon. Put the meat into a, braising-pan, pour over: it half a; pint of nicely-flayoured stock, and.let it simmer very gently until done enough. -Haye ready half a pound of boiled macaroni,-put it:on .a, hot dish,,. lace the lamb upon it, and.cover the whole with half.a pint of good brown gravy. ‘The appearance of the dish will be very much improved. if; the lamb jis glazed, ;,If preferred, ‘the macaroni may be, omitted, and spinach served with the lamb. Time to. simmer, until tender, from an hour and a:half to "two hours. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient. for three or four persons. ay Peet «da Breast of, Braised (another Siagy Balle nat of fami ae in fhe st recipe. When sufficiently cooked, take out the bones, put the meat between.:two. dishes, ldy a weight upon ‘the top, andi let iti remain until cold. . Cut.:it into, neat | pieces, the: size. and ishape.of cutletss:; Let these be héated in some .of the liquid-in which the'meat was braised, glaze them;:and; place them! in a circle on ‘a. dish, ‘with.a quart of fine green peas in the centre, uprepared as follows :—Put a quart of peas into'a. jboml,; with as much cold: water as: will cover ‘them,' and.:two or three ounces of fresh butter. Rub/ them: together with: the fingers, until they are well covered with butter, then drain ‘off the water, and. put the) peasinto'astewpan with a:small slice of-ham,a bunchrof patsley; two or three green onions; half a'tea+spoontul of salt, and twoctea-spoonfuls of ‘powdered lost sugar. Stew them gently over the fire, and ifidister’ them, if necessary, with a little of Fhe boiling’ gravy!>'"When they''até’ neatly’ done, remove the ham, parsley, and onions, and let them boil until-they “are tender, and no Tiquid remains. Work. smoothly together half an ounce of butier and a tea-spoonful of flour. Put this to the boiling peas. Shake the saute- pan over the fire until the peas are “well thickened, then serve! immediately. Time, an hour and a half, or more, to ibraise the lamb; ‘about thirty minutes to stew jthe peas. Pro- bable cost of lamb, 10d. per. paund. Sufficient | for three or four persons, .- \ Lamb, Breast of, Broiled.—Trim a | breast of lamb, and -put.it into a stewpan with as much stock as -will just cover it. Add a | bunch of sweet herbs and an onion stuck with one or two cloves, and let it simmer very gently until it is sufficiently tender to remove’ the bones, then take these out. Sprinkle a little ‘pepper and salt over the meat, brush it over twice with egg and bread-cruimbs, to which, if liked, a little chopped parsley can be added, or a tea-spoonful of powdered herbs,'and broil it over a clear fire. When it is brightly browned on oné side, turn it carefully to btown'the other 5 ‘serve en a hot’ dish; and’ serid’ the following” LAM ( 354 ) LAM sauce to table in a tureen :—Put two ounces of loaf sugar and a quarter of a pint of vinegar into a saucepan, let them simmer until the sugar is dissolved, then add a pinch of cayenne, and a wine-glassful of claret. Simmer a quarter of an hour, and serve hot. Time, about an hour and a half to simmer the lamb: it should be broiled until brightly browned on both sides. Sufficient for three or four per- sons. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Lamb, Breast of, Broiled (another way).—Take two breasts of lamb, trim them neatly, remove the tendons, and tie the joints to- gether. Simmer them gently, asinthelast recipe, until the bones can be drawn out easily, then remove these, sprinkle salt and pepper over the meat, and place it between two dishes. Puta weight on the top, and let it remain until cold. When wanted for use, cut the meat into neat pieces, brush these over twice with egg and bread-crumbs, and broil them over a clear fire until brightly browned on both sides. Dish them neatly, and send brown gravy and tomato or piquant sauce to table with them. Time, eight or ten minutes to broil the lamb. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Lamb, Breast of, Collared.—Take a fine breast of lamb, remove the bones and gristle, and the outside skin, and lay it flat on the table. Strew a little salt and pepper over it, and spread upon it a mixture made as fol- lows :—-Wash and bone five anchovies, pound them in a mortar, and with them the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs; add the thin rind of half a lemon, finely minced, half a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, six ounces of bread-crumbs, and a table- spoonful of minced parsley. Mix thoroughly. Roll the meat round and round, tie it in a cloth, and bind it securely with tape. Boil it gently. ‘When done enough, place the lamb under a weight, and do not remove the tapes until quite cold. Time to boil, twenty minutes for every pound. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Suffi- cient for five or six persons. Lamb, Breast of, Rolled.—Take the bones out of a breast of lamb, being careful not to cut the upper skin. Put them into a saucepan with an onion stuck with one clove, and a pint of stock or water. Let them simmer gently for gravy. Make a quarter of a pound of good veal forcemeat, spread this upon the under side of the breast, then roll it round and round, and skewer it firmly and neatly. Put three ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan, let it melt, then put in the breast of veal, and brown it brightly and equally all over. When sufficiently coloured, strain the gravy from the bones upon it, add a little pepper and salt, cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently until the meat is tender. A spoonful of brown- ing may be added, if required. Spinach or green peas may be served with this dish. Time to stew, from one and a half to two hours, according to the size. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Breast of, Stewed.—Remove the skin from a breast of lamb, cut the meat into neat pieces, strew a little pepper and salt over these, place them in a stewpan with as much weak stock as will cover them, and let them simmer very gently until tender. Drain the meat, and place it on a hot dish. Thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, add a glass of sherry or any other light wine, and boil for two or three minutes longer. Stewed mushrooms or cucumbers are a great improve- ment to this dish. Time to stew, about an hour. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Suffi- cient for three or four persons. Lamb Chops and Potatoes.—Egg and bread-crumb some neatly-trimmed lamb chops, and fry them in the usual way (see Lamb Chops, Fried). For half a dozen chops pre- pare a pound and a half of potatoes. Boil and drain them, and beat them up with a fork, then add a quarter of a pint of boiling broth, or, failing this, milk. Beat well until quite smooth, pass the potatoes through a sieve, put them into a saucepan with two ounces of fresh butter, and stir briskly until they are quite hot. Pile the potatoes high in the centre of a hot dish, and place the chops round them in an upright posi- tion, one overlapping the other. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to fry the chops; forty minutes to prepare the potatoes. Probable cost of chops, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb Chops, Broiled.—Cut the chops about half an imch thick, trim them neatly, flatten them, remove the superfluous fat, place them on a hot gridiron over a clear fire, and let them remain until brightly browned on both sides, turning them with steak-tongs when required. Season them with pepper and salt, and serve as hot as possible. Garnish with parsley. Mashed potatoes, asparagus, green peas, or spinach are usually served with lamb chops. Time, eight or nine minutes to broil. Sufficient, half a dozen chops for two or three persons. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Lamb Chops, Fried.—Cut a loin or neck of lamb into chops-from half to three- quarters of an inch in thickness. Dip each-one into beaten egg, and afterwards ‘into bread- crumbs, flavoured as follows :—Mix three ounces of finely-grated bread-crunibs with a salt-spoon- ful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, a table-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind. Fry the chops in good dripping until lightly browned on both sides. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with slices of lemon or crisped parsley. Time to fry, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen chops for two or three persons. Lamb Chops, Fried,with Parmesan. —Take some lamb chops from the loin or neck, as in the last recipe. Mix the bread-crumbs with a little grated Parmesan cheese, and dip- these first into clarified butter and bread- crumbs, and afterwards into beaten egg and bread-crumbs. Fry the chops as before until they are lightly browned on both sides, dish them in a circle, and send tomato sauce to table inatureen. Time, ten to fifteen minutes, LAM Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen chops for two or three persons. Lamb Chops with Cucumber Sauce. —Dip the chops in beaten egg and bread- crumbs, and fry them (see Lamb Chops, Fried). ‘When nicely browned, arrange them in a circle on a hot'dish, and put in the centre a sauce prepared as follows :—Peel a young fresh cucumber, and cut it into dice; strew a little pepper and salt over these. Melt three or four ounces of butter in « saucepan, put in the cucumber, cover it closely, and place it on a moderate fire, shaking the pan frequently, to prevent sticking. When it is steamed until the pieces of cucumber are quite tender, but un- broken, serve them in the centre of the dish. Time, eight or nine minutes to boil the chops; about twenty minutes to stew the cucumber. Lamb Chops with Herbs.—Cut some chops from the loin or neck of lamb. Trim them neatly, and dip them first into clarified butter, and afterwards into a mixture made of equal quantities of chives and parsley. Fry them in hot fat until they are nicely browned, or broil them over a clear fire, and serve them on a hot dish, garnished with crisped parsley. The following sauce may be sent to table with them :—Take a sprig of thyme, two sprigs of parsley, and three or four leaves of tarragon. Strip the leaves from the stalks, wash them, and chop them small. “Mix them smoothly with a piece of butter the size of an egg anda dessert-spoonful of flour, and pour over them’ half a pint of boiling gravy. Simmer four or five minutes over the fire, and rub out any lumps that may form. Season with a little salt and pepper, if required; add _a table- spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and stir the sauce briskly off the fire into the well-beaten yolk of anegg. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to cook the chops; a quarter of an hour to prepare the gravy. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen chops for three persons. Lamb, Cold (en_Blanquette).— Take some cold lamb, mince it finely, and season it with a little salt and pepper. Supposing there to be a pound and a half of cold lamb, divide six large mushrooms into slices. Fry these in three ounces of butter for five minutes, then pour over them half a pint of good veal stock, mixed smoothly with a tea-spoontul of flour, and simmer gently for half an hour. Now add the minced lamb, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs mixed with four table-spoonfuls of cream. Let these heat very gently, stirring all the time. In ten minutes the lamb will be ready to serve. Garnish the dish with slices of lemon. Probable cost, 1s., exclusive of the cold Jamb. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Cold Roast, Stew of.—Cold |- roast lamb is so very nice with a little mint sauce and mashed potatoes that it seems a pity to warmit up. When it is preferred hot, how- ever, the following is an excellent method of preparing it:—Cut the cold meat into thin slices, trim these neatly, and season them rather highly with pepper and a little salt. Dip each piece in finely-grated bread-crumbs which have (855 ) LAM x been moistened in gravy, and strew over them a spoonful or two of finely-minced pickles, such as gherkins, walnuts, &c. Pour over the whole two table-spoonfuls of pickle vinegar and four table-spoonfuls of the gravy of the meat. Put the dish in the oven, and Jet it remain until quite hot. Garnish with browned potato balls. Serve the meat in the dish in which it was heated, which may be placed in another covered with a napkin. ‘Time, about half an hour to heat. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient, two pounds of cold roast ‘meat for three or four persons. Lamb, Cooked Whole (sometimes called Lamb a lEspagnole) .—On the Continent lambs are occasionally roasted entire, something like sucking pigs, and are very delicate and good. It is evident that for this the animal must be very young, not more than five or six weeks old. The only preparation required is to remove the skin, take out the fry, and cut off the feet; then cover the lamb with slices of bacon fastened on with small string, put it down to aclear fire, and let it remain until done enough. Take the bacon off about a quarter of an hour before the lamb is taken up, so that it may brown, and take care that it is equally cooked all over. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over it before serving, and send bread . sauce and brown gravy to table in a tureen. Time to roast, two hours anda half or three hours. Probable cost uncertain, lambs suitable for this dish being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. , Lamb Cutlets.—Take the best end of a well-hung neck of lamb. Saw it off two or three inches from the top of the ‘bones, leaving the cutlets about four inches long. Scrape off the meat from the end of the bone, so as to leave an inch quite bare. Chop off the thick part of the chine bone, and pare away the flat bones which adhere to the meat and spoil the shape. Flatten the cutlets with «a cutlet bat, A butcher will always shape the cutlets if requested to do so. They may be either broiled plainly or egged, bread-crumbed, and fried. Green peas, asparagus, spinach, and mashed potatoes are all favourite accompaniments of lamb cutlets, and an infinite variety of sauces may be served with them. The sauce frequently gives its name to the dish, as Cutlets 4” la Poulette, Cutlets & la Robert, which names simply mean cutlets served with Robert” or Poulette sauce. There is no occasion for any waste in shaping cutlets, as the bonés can be stewed down for gravy and the fat melted for frying. ss Lamb Cutlets (a 1a » Dauphine.)—See Cutlets, Lamb. en Lamb Cutlets (ila Princesse.)—See Lamb Cutlets, Superlative (sometimes called Lamb Cutlets 4 la Princesse). Lamb Cutlets (ala Robert).—Mince three or four large onions very finely; put them into a stewpan with three ounces of fresh butter, and brown them lightly over a gentle fire. Shake the pan about to prevent burning. Add a LAM ( 356 ) LAM table-spoonful and a half of vinegar, and boil altogether for three or four minutes. Mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with half a pint of good, nicely-flavoured stock ; add these to the vinegar, &c., and simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. Just before serving stir a dessert-spoonful of mixed mustard and a dessert-spoonful of Harvey's sauce in with the rest, and keep the whole quite hot until the cutlets are ready. Trim these neatly, dip them twice, first into clarified butter and egg- crumbs, and afterwards into beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in the usual way until they are lightly browned on both sides. Dish them in a circle, with the sauce poured over them. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to fry the cutlets. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb Cutlets and Spinach. — Pick the stalks from two pounds of spinach and wash jt in several waters. Letit drain, then put it into plenty of boiling water, in which about a table-spoonful of salt has been thrown, keep pressing it down,,with a wooden spoon, and let it boil very quickly. Drain and squeeze the water from it,,anl chop it very small. Put it into a saucepan witha little salt and pepper, one ounce of butter, and two table-spoonfuls or half a gill of thick cream or rich gravy. Stir it without ceasing ‘over the fire with a wooden spoon until it is quite hot throughout, and the moisture is absorbed. Keep it hot until the cutlets are ready. These may be trimmed, egged, bread-crumbed, and broiled or fried in the usual way (see Lamb Chops, Broiled, and Lamb Chops Fried). Press the spinach into a mould, turn it on a hot dish, and place the cutlets round it in an’ upright position, one overlapping the ‘other. Time, ten minutes to boil the spinach. Probable cost, cutlets, 1s. | per pound ; spinach, 2d. perpound. Sufficient, | about two pounds of spinach will be required for half a dozen chops. Lamb Cutlets, Cold,—When a loin or any other joint of lamb has been under-dressed, it is a good plan .to divide it into cutlets of a neat shape and fully three-quarters of an inch in thickness, to dip these in beaten egg, strew ‘over nicely-flavoured bread-crumbs, and fry or broil them until lightly browned on both sides. As there is a danger that the meat will be dry when it is dressed the second time, care should be taken not only to cook the cutlets over'a’ good fire, but also to dip them into a little clarified butter before broiling them. Time, five or six minutes to cook. Prebable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen cutlets for three persons. ‘Lamb Cutlets or Chops Stewed in their own Gravy.—Take a thick iron saucepan—if possible, one sufficiently large to. take all the cutlets in one layer—put a. little cold water in it, though not nearly sufficient ‘to cover the cutlets, and after dipping these into. cold_ water, peppering, .and afterwards fiouring them, put them into the pan, place them on a moderate fire, and let them simmer as gently as possible until they are done enough. Throw a tea-spoonful of salt over them as soon as they begin to simmer, and serve all the gravy in the dish with them. The great secret of stewing cutlets in this way is to let them simmer gently. If boiled quickly there will be no gravy left when they are to be taken off, and the meat will be hard. Skim the fat off carefully before serving. Time to simmer, an hour. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen cutlets for two or three persons. Lamb Cutlets, Superlative (some- times called Lamb Cutlets, 4 la Princesse).— Trim and shape some lamb cutlets neatly, and fry them plainly (see Lamb Chops, Fried), letting them be rather under-dressed than otherwise. When half cold dip each cutlet into some good melted butter, flavoured with mushrooms. Place them upon ice to set the sauce, and afterwards egg, bread-crumb, and fry them in the usual way, and serve with asparagus, green peas, or any other vegetables. Good white sauce should be sent to table inatureen. Time, twenty minutes altogether to cook the cutlets—ten minntes each time. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. Lamb Cutlets, Superlative (another way).—Take a table-spoonful of each of the following ingredients, all finely minced :— Parsley, shallots, mushrooms, and lean ham. Put these into a stewpan with an ounce of fresh butter, and stir them’ over the fire for five minutes. Adda quarterof a_pint of sauce, a little pepper and salt, half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, a’ dessert-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, three‘ grates of nntmeg,’and the yolks of two eggs. Stir the sauce over the fire until it thickens, but it must not boil. Par- tially fry the cutlets, as in the last recipe; when nearly cold dip them into the above.preparation, and place them upon ice until the sauce is set. Dip the cutlets in egg and afterwards in bread- crumbs; fry, and serve them with a purée of spinach or green peas. Time, twenty minutes to fry the cutlets—ten minutes each time The above quantity of sauce is sufficient for a dozen cutlets Probable cost, 1s. per pound. ~ Lamb, Fore Quarter of, To Roast. —This joint can scarcely be too fresh when dressed. Remove the scrag, the shankbone, and the chinebone; and crack the ribs half-way between the edge of the breast and the spine. Lay the meat down to a quick fire, and baste plentifully from the time of its being warmed through to that when it is ready for the table. Like all young meat, lamb should be very thoroughly cooked. About ten minutes before it is taken. up dredge a little flour over it, and froth and brown it nicely. A slice of fresh butter, a cut lemon, and a little cayenne should be sent to table, so that when the shoulder is separated from the ribs they may be ready for being laid between the two. This separation is sometimes effected before the joint is sent to table, ‘but, of course, this must depend upon the wish of the carver. Serve the lamb with a cut paper ruffle on, the shankbone, and send a little gravy made from the roast under it. Mint sauce and salad generally accompany this dish. Time, a fore-quarter of lamb, weighing ten pounds, will require from two hours to two hours and a half. The weather and the LAM ( 357 ) LAM strength of the fire often cause a difference. Probable cost, 11d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Lamb, Fore Quarter of, To Roast {another way).—Prepare the joint as in the last recipe. Skewer three or four ‘slices of bacon securely to the outer side, brush three ounces of clarified butter over the inner part, and strew upon it a thick covering of finely- grated bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt, and a little finely-minced parsley. Cover FORE QUARTER OF LAMB. the whole with a large sheet of buttered paper, and lay the lamb down to a clear even'fire. When nearly done, remove the paper and bacon, baste the meat with yolk of egg mixed with the gravy, throw some more bread-crumbs over it, and let it remain until nicely browned. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over it before serving, and send mint sauce to table with it. Time, from two hours to two hours and a half. Probable cost, 11d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Lamb, Fricandeau of.—Take a breast of lamb, and lard it in the usual way (see Lard, To), with three strips of fat bacon. Put it into a stewpan with two bunches of parsley, a small bunch of thyme and marjoram, a small bunch of green onions, six or eight pepper- corns, a bay-leaf, one or two slices of fat bacon, and as much boiling water as will barely cover the meat. Simmer gently for half an hour; then take it out, and boil the gravy quickly until it is reduced to one half. Put the meat back again, skim the fat carefully from the liquid, and simmer gently once more until a glaze is seen on the top of the meat. Drain it upon a dish, and keep it hot until the sauce is reduced to a glaze. Brush the lamb over with two or three coats of this, and serve it upon dressed vege- tables, sush as sorrel, spinach, or green peas. Time, from three to four hours. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient’ for three or four persons. Lamb, Fricassee of.—Take a breast of Jamb, cut it into small pieces about an inch and | a half square, season these with a little pepper and salt, and put them into a stewpan with an onion stuck with four cloves, a sprig of basil, two bay-leaves, and three ounces of fresh butter. Cover the saucepan closely, and let it steam gently for half an hour, shaking it occasionally to prevent sticking. Pour over it a pint of boiling water, cover closely once more, and simmer for an hour. At the end of that time | recipe.— strain the sauce, and thicken it with a table- spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with a little water; stir into it three dessert-spoonfuls of chopped capers; boil all two or three minutes longer, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. ‘Time to stew, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Hind Quarter of.—Take a hind-quarter of lamb, saw off the knuckle- bone, and wrap the joint in oiled or buttered paper. Put the roasting hook through the shank end, and place the joint before a clear fire. Baste it frequently with good dripping. Twenty minutes before it is taken down dredge a little flour over it, brown it nicely, and place it on a hot dish, with two-or three table- spoonfuls of good gravy with it, and the rest inatureen. Mint sauce should always accom- pany roast lamb. A cut lemon should be sent to table with this joint, and an empty dish upon which the carver may place the lee when it is severed from the loin. Time, two hours and a ‘half, or twenty minutes to each pound, and twenty minutes over. Young white meat must be thoroughly cooked. Probable cost, 11d. perpound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Lamb, Larded.—Lard the surface of a leg of lamb with thin slices of fat bacon (see Lard, To), cover it with buttered paper, and put it down to an even fire. Half an hour before it is done enough take off the paper, and sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs, seasoned with a little salt, pepper, and pounded mace over it, and let it remain until it is brightly browned. Squeeze the juice of a lemon over it before serving, and send mint sauce to table. Time to roast, twenty minutes for each pound, and twenty minutes over. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. i Lamb, Leg of (41a Venison). A German Take six cloves, six juniper-berries, and a small tea-spoonful of pepper. Pound these ingredients to a fine powder, then mix with them the following herbs, finely minced :— Four leaves of tarragon, a sprig of ‘green rosemary, and a sprig of marjoram, add four shallots, and rub the whole into a well-hung leg of lamb weighing about five pounds. Lay the meat in a deep dish, pour over it four table- spoonfuls of claret mixed with four table-spoon- fuls of vinegar. Let it lie in this pickle for three days, and turn it every day. At the end | of that time wipe it with a dry cloth to free it from the herbs, sprinkle some salt over it, and bake in a moderate oven. Baste the meat liberally, while cooking, with the liquid in which it was soaked, boiled up with half a pint of good stock. Unless this is attended to it will be very dry. Ten miputes before the meat is taken up, pour a cupful of new milk into the pan, and rub it well into the brown crusting which will have formed at the side of the pan, and when the gravy boils pour it boil- ing-hot upon the well-beaten yolk of an epg. Pour a little of this sauce into the dish, and serve the rest in a tureen. Garnish with slices LAM ( 358 ) LAM of lemon and a little parsley. A saddle or a shoulder of lamb may be cooked in the same way. ‘Time to bake, an hour anda half. Pro- bable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lamb, Leg of, Boiled.—Put a plump leg of lamb into as much boiling water as will barely cover it. Let it boil a few minutes, then add a littie cold water; draw the pan to the side of the fire, remove the scum carefully as it rises, and afterwards simmer gently until done enough. A tea-spoonful of salt should be thrown into the water when the lamb is half cooked. Place the meat on a hot dish, garnish it with tufts of boiled cauliflower or carrots, and send caper - sauce to table with it—a little poured over the joint, and the rest in a tureen. The loin may be cut into steaks, fried, and served round garnished with parsley. Time to boil, a quarter of an hour for each pound, counting from the time the water boils the second time. Pro- bable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lamb, Leg of, Roast.—Put the lamb down to a clear, even fire. Baste it plentifully with good dripping, and twenty minutes before it is ready to serve, bring it nearer to the fire to brown it nicely. Place the lamb on a hot dish, pour over it a small quantity of gravy made from the contents of the dripping-pan, . and send a little mere to table in a tureen. Mint sauce and green peas, or boiled cauli- flower, usually accompany this dish. Time to. roast, twenty minutes to the pound. Pro- bable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. ‘Lamb, Leg of, Stewed.—Put a leg of lamb, weighing about five pounds, into a deep baking-pan with two turnips, a carrot, a leek, a clove of garlic, three tea-spoonfuls of salt, half « tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, and as much water as will cover it. Put it in a moderate oven, and let it remain for an hour after it begins to simmer. At the end of that time, put with it a pint of young green peas, a sprig of mint, and a small lump of sugar, and let it stew half an hour longer. Serve it ona hot dish, with the vegetables round it, a little of the gravy poured over, and more in a turecn. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Suffi- cient for five or six persons. Lamb, Leg of, Stewed, with Béchamel, or White Sauce.—Put a leg of lamb into a convenient-sized stewpan, and with it two or three veal-bones, Cover it with boiling water, bring it gently again to the boil, and remove the scum carefully as it rises. Add two large carrots, two bunches of parsley, one bunch of thyme, and half a dozen peppercorns, and simmer very gently for an houranda half. Take half a pint of the gravy, and mix it with half a pint of good cream. Add a table-spoonful of flour smoothly mixed with a little water, a bunch of pargley, a dozen small mushrooms, and a tea-spoonful of salt, and boil softly for an hour. Put the lamb on a hot dish, strain the béchamel over it, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Boiled cauliflower or carrots are an excellent accompaniment to this dish. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for five persons. , Lamb, Liver of, To Fry.—Soak the liver in cold water for half an hour. Cut it into thin slices, and boil these for ten minutes, Place them in a dry cloth to drain off the water, strew a little pepper on them, dredge flour over them, and fry in hot fat until they are: brightly browned. If the flavour is liked, an onion finely minced may be fried with them, or a few rashers of bacon. Garnish with parsley, and send good brown gravy to table with the meat. Time, ten minutes to boil, eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for two or three persons. Lamb, Loin of, Braised.—Take a loin of lamb, skewer down the flap, and cover it all over with slices of fat bacon. Put it intoa braising-pan, or, failing this, a saucepan, as nearly as possible its own size, with a closely- fitting lid, and pour over it a pint of good stock. Add half a dozen young carrots, a bunch of young onions,a blade of mace, two bunches of parsley, one bunch of thyme, a tea- spoonful of salt, and three or four peppercorns. Simmer very gently until the meat is done enough. Take it out, drain and dry it, reduce the sauce to a glaze, and brush this over the meat. Serve the lamb on a hot dish, and with it some green peas, spinach, or asparagus. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 1s. per pound, Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb, Loin of, Stewed.—Take a loin of lamb, skewer down the flap, and put it into a saucepan, nearly its own size, with half a pint of good unseasoned stock, three ounces of butter, a dessert-spoonful of chopped mint- leaves, the strained juice of half a lemon, half a tea-spoonful. of salt, and a quarter of a tea- spoonful of pepper. Cover the pan closely, and simmer gently for an hour and a half. Take out the meat, boil the sauce quickly for a few minutes, brown the meat before tHe fire or on the gridiron, pour the sauce over it, and serve as hot as possible. The following sauce may be sent to table with it :—Take one pound- weight of the white part only of some onions, and chop them small; then put them into a saucepan with three ounces of fresh butter, and shake the pan every now and then over the fire until the onions are quite soft. Pour over them half a pint of good stock nicely seasoned, mix them thoroughly, then pass the whole through a hair sieve; let it boil up once more, add four table-spoonfuls of boiling cream, and serve at once. The sauce must not boil after the cream isadded. Loin of lamb is very good if sim- -mered softly with the butter only. It should be turned over when it is half done, and will require from half an hour to three-quarters of an hour longer than if the broth, &c., were added. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Suffi- cient for five or six persons, Lamb, Neck of, Boiled.—Plunge 4 neck of lamb into as much boiling water as | will barely cover it. Let it boil for five LAM ( 359 ) LAM minutes, then pour in a small cupful of cold water, draw it to the side of the fire, remove the scum as it rises, and simmer very gently for one hour. Put the lamb on a hot dish, pour over it half a pint of parsley sauce, and serve as hot as possible. Turnips and carrots should be sent to table with it. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Sufficient for three persons. Lamb FPie.—A lamb pie may be made either of. the neck, breast, or loin of lamb, and of these the breast will be found to be much the best. Take about two pounds of meaf, cut it up into neat pieces, and sprinkle over these a dessert-spoontul of salt, a tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a tea-spoonful of finely- minced parsley. Put them in a pie-dish, take out some of the bones to stew down for gravy, and pour over them half a quarter of a pint of cold water. Line the edges of the dish with a good crust, cover it with the same, and bake in amoderate oven. When the pie is sufficiently cooked, pour in a little good stock or meat jelly. Lamb pie is usually eaten cold. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb Pudding.—Line a shallow, thick- rimmed basin with pastry about half an inch = thickness, and leave it half an inch over the e. cre breast of lamb, cut it into convenient-sized. pieces; season these lightly with pepper and salt, place them in layers in the pudding, and strew « table-spoonful of loose veal stuffing over each layer. Put about a gill of water or mutton broth over the whole, lay a pastry cover on the top, moisten the edge, and draw it over carefully. Dip a pudding-cloth into boiling water, dredge a little flour over, tie the basin rather loosely in it, plunge it into boiling water, and boil from two to three hours. Let it stand two or three minutes before being turned out. Place it on a hot dish, pour half a pint of parsley sauce over it, and serve at once. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons, _ Lamb Ragout, with Sorrel (a German recipe).—Take two pounds of the breast of lamb, put it into a.saucepan with as much cold water as will cover it, and let it simmer gently for a few minutes. Take it up, drain it, and cut it into small pieces about two inches square. Slice an onion, and put it into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a carrot, a stick of celery, a sprig of parsley, another of basil, and two cloves. Let these steam softly for five or six minutes; dredge a table-spoonful of flour over them, and add half a pint of boiling mutton gravy, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea- spoonful of pepper, and simmer until the sauce is as thick and smoothascream. Put the pieces |. of lamb into another stewpan, strain the sauce over them, and let them remain over a gentle fire until the meat is quite tender. Beat the ks of two eggs, mix them with a table-spoon- ii ef sour cream, and stir gently into the sauce, first taking out the meat and placing it on one side. Pick the stems from two or three handfuls of sorrel-leaves; wash and drain them, and put them into a closely-covered stewpan with two ounces of butter, and let them steam until soft; mix them with the sauce. When ready to serve, heat all together gently over the fire; the sauce must not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added. Time, altogether, an hour and a half. Probable cost of lamb, 9d. per pound. Sufficient for three persons. Lamb, Roll of.—Take three pounds of lean lamb, and mince it very finely with a pound of fat bacon. Mix with it atea-spoonful of white pepper, the grated rind of a lemon, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, a finely-minced shallot, half a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, and salt according to taste. The quantity of salt will depend upon the condition of the bacon. When thoroughly mixed, roll the seasoned meat into a neat shape, something like a roly-poly pudding ;, cover it with a thick fold of buttered paper, and place over this a coarse crust made of flour and water. Put it in a moderate oven, and when cooked enough, remove the paste and paper, and serve the roll of lamb on a hot dish, with tomato or cucumber sauce round it, and green peas, spinach, or asparagus as an accompaniment. ‘Time, two hours to bake. Probable cost,.3s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lamb, Saddle of.—A saddle of lamb is Take the large bones out of two pounds. | an elegant and excellent joint for a small party. Cover it with buttered paper, and lay it down toa clear fire. Baste it well, and when nearly cooked enough, remove the paper, dredge a little flour over it, and baste it again until it is nicely browned. Mint sauce should be sent to table with it, and green peas, spinach, cauli- flowers, or potatoes are very suitable as accom- paniments. , Time to roast, about two hours or. more, according to the size of the joint. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Lamb, Saddle of (a la Venison).—This may be cooked in the way already described, for leg of lamb (see Lamb, Leg of, 4 la Veni- son). , Lamb, Saddle of, Boned, Rolled, and Braised.—Take all the bones from a saddle of lamb—if possible, without injuring the upper part of the skin. Lay the meat on the table, skin downwards, and spread over it a pound of good veal forcemeat. Rollit round and round, bind it securely, with plenty of tape, skewer slices of fat bacon over it, and put it into a braising-pan, with a pint and a half of white stock, three carrots, two onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three sticks of celery, and a dozen peppercorns. Simmer gently for an hour and a half. Take out the meat, drain it, and, without removing the tape, place it between two dishes; put a heavy weight upon the top, and let it remain until it is quite cold and firm. Cover it with a coating of white sauce; let this stiffen, then brush the roll over with beaten egg, and cover it with light bread-raspings mixed with a tea-spoonful of grated Parmesan. Put the saddle in a moderate oven half an hour before it’is wanted, that it may be heated through, and serve it on a hot dish. Garnish with dressed vegetables. Instead of being egged and bread-crumbed, the saddle may, after pressing, be heated in a little of the stock LAM ( 360 ) LAM in which it was cooked, and served with dressed vegetables and Allemande sauce. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for nine or ten persons. Lamb, Sauce for.—Mint sauce is usually served with lamb. To make it:—Strip the leaves from some fresh young mint, wash and dry them well, and chop them as finely as pos- sible. Put them into a tureen, and cover them with powdered sugar in the proportion of a table-spoonful of sugar to one and a half of mint. Let these remain for half an hour, then pour over them three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. If after a trial this sauce is found to be too sweet, a less proportion of sugar can be used; but it has been very generally approved when prepared as above. The vinegar is sometimes strained from the mint-leaves before being sent to table. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Shoulder of.—Put a shoulder of lamb down to a clear fire, and baste it liberally while roasting. A quarter of an hour before it is taken up dredge a little flour over it, sprinkle a tea-spoonful of salt upon it, and baste it with a little butter until it is nicely browned. Send a spoonful or two of the gravy made from the joint in the dish with it, and the rest in a tureen. Mint sauce and green peas, salad, or vofatoes generally accompany this dish. Time to roast, eighteen minutes for every pound. Probable cost, 10d. or 1s. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb, Shoulder of (4 la Venison).— The same method is to be followed as for leg of lamb (see Lamb, Leg of, & la Venison). Lamb, Shoulder of, Grilled. —Take a shoulder of lamb, plunge it into, boiling water, let it boil three or four minutes, then draw it to the side of the fire and simmer it gently for three-quarters of an hour. Take it up, score it nearly to the bone in squares an inch apart, brush it over with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it which have been seasoned with a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and flavoured with a table-spoonful of dried herbs, of which two parts should be parsley, one thyme, and one marjoram. Broil the meat over a clear fire until itis lightly - browned, and send the following sauce to table with it:—Mix half a salt-spoonful of cayenne with four ounces of pounded sugar. Add half a pint of white vinegar, and simmer over the fire until the sugar is dissolved. Add a glass of claret, and simmer again for a quarter of an hour. Serve very hot inatureen. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb, Shoulder of, Stuffed and Braised.—Take a shoulder of lamb, remove the bladebone without injuring the outer skin, but leave in the shankbone. Fill the cavity from which the bone has been removed with good veal forcemeat. Sprinkle the inner surface with a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and draw together the edges of the shoulder with some strong thread. Put the lamb into a braising-pan with slices of fat bacon under and above it. Put with it two onions, three or four sticks of celery, a bunch of savoury herbs, and a pint and a half of white stock. Braise the lamb for two hours over a slow fire. Take it up, drain it, boil the gravy down quickly, and glaze the meat. After glazing, serve with cither cucumber, tomato, or sorrel sauce. Probable cost, 10d. or 1s. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb, Shoulder of, with Truffles, —Tuke two shoulders of lamb, bone and trim them neatly, and sprinkle over each a tea- spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, a quarter of a nutmeg grated, and two truffles cut into thin slices. Put the two shoulders together, press them closely, and tie them round securely with string. Place some slives of fat bacon at the bottom of a convenient-sized saucepan ; put the meat upon this, and then some more slices on the top; add two bunches of parsley, a very small bunch of thyme, three carrots, two onions, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a dozen peppercorns, and a pint and a half of good stock. Cover the pan closely, and simmer very gently for three hours. At the end of that time take out the meat, remove the string, place it on a hot dish, boil the gravy quickly down to the consistence of sauce, and strain it over the lamb. Garnish with slices of lemon, and serve as hot as possible. If truffles cannot be easily procured, they may be omitted, and the lamb cooked in the same way without them. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for six or Seven persons. -Lamb Steaks, Brown.— Flatten the steaks, dip them into beaten egg, and after- wardsinto finely-grated bread-crumbs flavoured and seasoned as follews:—With four heaped table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs mix half a tea-spoonful of salt, quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, the eighth of a small nutmeg, grated, a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and the thin rind of a quarter of a lemon chopped as small as possible. Fry the chops in hot fat, thicken half a pint of nicely-seasoned gravy with a lump of butter rolled in flour, and add a glass of port and half a dozen stewed mush- rooms. The latter may be omitted. Serve the steaks on a hot dish, pour the sauce into the centre, and garnish with fried sippets, or, if pre- ferred, pickled gherkins thinly sliced. Send green peas or stewed cucumbers to table with these. Time, ten minutes to fry the steaks. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient, half a dozen for three persons. Lamb Steaks Ragoft:—Take two pounds of lamb steaks, strew a little white pepper and powdered mace over them, and put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a pint of liquid, half of which should be milk and half white stock. Let them simmer as softly as possible, without ceasing, for an hour and a quarter, or until tender. Just before serving mix a tea-spoonful of mushroom-powder ana a tea-spoonful of flour very amoothly with a table-spoonful of cold milk. Stir this to the sauce, add a salt-spoonful of salt, a’ wine- glassful of boiling cream, and half a dozen white mushrooms ready stewed; serve imme- diately. Great care must be taken in preparing LAM ( 361.) LAM this dish that the meat is very gently simmered. If it is allowed to boil quickly it will be hard, ‘dry, and unpalatable.. When gently simmered it is excellent. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb, Stewed, with Mushrooms.— Take the bones from a breast of lamb, season the meat with a little pepper and salt, and fry it in hot fat until it is lightly browned on both sides. Take it up, drain it from the fat, and put it into a stewpan with three or four thin slices of fat bacon, and as much white stock as will barely cover it. Add a pound of button- mushrooms, a dessert-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, five or six chives, a tea-spoonful of salt, and six peppercorns. Let the liquid boil up, then draw the pan to the side of the fire, and stew gently for an hour and a half. Take the lamb up, place it on a hot dish, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it, and strain the sauce to serve with it, first taking out the mushrooms to place round the meat. If preferred, half a dozen black truffles cut into slices may be sub- stituted for the mushrooms. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lamb Stewed with Peas,—Take a breast or loin of lamb, weighing about two pounds. Cut it into neat chops, season them with a tea-spoonful of salt, and half « tea- spoonful of white pepper, and dredge a little flour over them. Put a piece of butter, the size of a walnut, into a frying-pan. Let it dis- solve, then put in the chops, and let them re- main until lightly browned on both sides. Pour away the fat, add three-quarters of a pint of anseasoned boiling stock, a cos lettuce cut in long strips, a leaf of tarragon, two shallots finely minced, a tea-spoonful of sifted sugar, half a-salt-spoonful of salt, and the eighth of a small nutmeg, grated. Cover the pan closely, and simmer gently. for a quarter of an hour. Put a pint of green peas freshly shelled into the saucepan, and simmer again until they are tender, which, if they are young, will be in a quarter of an hour. Serve the peas on the dish with the lamb. Time, eight: minutes to fry the chops. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lamb Stones and Sweetbread, To Fricassee.—Soak three sweetbreads in cold water for three or four hours, and change the water once or twice during that time. Wash and skin some lamb stones, put both them and the sweetbreads into boiling water, and let them boil for ten or fifteen minutes. Throw them into cold water. Cut the lamb stones into slices, press the sweetbreads into shape; if large, they may .be divided into halves. Dry them well, dredge'a little flour over them, and fry them in boiling fat until they are brightly browned on both sides.. A dozen large oysters may be fried with them. Pour off the fat, and add a pint of boiling gravy, half a hundred asparagus-tops cut into. small pieces, a salt- spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of peppex, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, and four table- spoonfuls of light wine. Simmer very gently for a few minutes. Beat the yolks of three eggs. Draw the gravy to the side of the fire, | covered with parsley, sauce. let it cool for two or three minutes, mix it very gradually with the eggs, pour it back into the saucepan, and stir it until it thickens. It must not boil after the eggs are put in. Serve as hot as possible, and garnish with slices of lemon. Probable cost, uncertain—it varies greatly with the season. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lamb Stove.—Split a lamb’s head in halves. Wash it thoroughly, blanch it, put it into a stewpan, with as much good stock as will completely cover it, and let it simmer very gently for twohours. Pick and wash three handfuls of spinach, put it with the stew, and add a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, two or three green onions, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Simmer for twenty minutes longer, and serve all on the same dish. The French stew the fry with the head, and serve the head in the middle, and the fry finely minced round it, the whole being e. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for two.or three persons. ° Lamb Sweetbreads, Fried.—Soak three sweetbreads in water for two or three hours, to draw out the blood, then boil them for ten minutes, to set them firm, and throw them into cold water for ten minutes more. Dry them in a soft cloth, and press them between two dishes. Dredge a little flour over them, brush them over with beaten egg, and sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs upon them, and fry them in bacon-fat or butter. Baste them constantly until brightly browned. A tea-spoonful of bread-raspings, such as are used for hams, may be strewn over the bread-crumbs, to insure the colour being good. Have ready half a pint of good brown gravy. Stir a glass of sherry into it, to flavour it, and pour this round, not upon, the sweetbreads. Garnish with watercresses. Time, altogether, about half an hour, exclusive of the soaking. Suffi- cient for three or four persons. Probable cost, uncertain. Lamb Sweetbreads, Larded.—Soak three sweetbreads in water for two or three hours, and change the water frequently. Put them into a saucepan, and let them boil for five or six minutes, to make them firm. Take them out, put them into cold water, and lard them closely. Place them in a stewpan, with as much good veal stock as will reach up to the larding, and put with them a slicea carrot, an onion, a stick of celery, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour. Let them sim- mer gently for ten minutes, and baste liberally during the time. Beat an egg, mix it with half a pint of cream, add a dessert-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and two or three grateg of nutmeg. Take the carrot, onion, and celery out of the sauce, let it cool a minute, then add- the.egg and cream. If preferred, a quarter of a hundred asparagus-tops may be stewed in the sauce, instead.of the carrot and celery. Stir constantly until quite hot ; but it must,not boil after the egg and cream are added. Lobster (a la Francaise).—Pick the flesh from a medium-sized fresh lobster, and cut it into small dice. Stir two table-spoonfuls of cream into a quarter of a pint of white stock, season with a little salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, put it into a stewpan with the lobster, and let it simmer very gently. Scrape the shell, and put it upon a dish with a border of puff paste round it. Pour the mixture into this, cover rather thickly with fine bread- crumbs, and brown it by holding over it an iron shovel which has been made red-hot. Time, to simmer five or six minutes. Probable cost of medium-sized lobster, 1s. 6d., when in full season. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lobster and Oyster Pie.—Pick the meat from the tails of two freshly-boiled lob- sters, and cut it into neat pieces, which must be seasoned with a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Bruise the shells and spawn, and make a little gravy from them. Pound the flesh from the claws and bodies to a smooth paste, mix with it a slice of bread finely-grated, six ounces of fresh butter, three table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Line the edges and sides of a pie-dish with good puff paste. Put in the slices of lobster, then two dozen oysters with their liquid, and after- wards the pounded meat. Lay the cover over all, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour and a quarter. Before serving, strain a little of the gravy from the shells into the pie. When the pastry is cooked enough the pie is done. Probable cost of lobsters, 1s. 6d. each. sufficient for eight or nine persons. Lobster and Prawn Soup (see Prawn ana Lobster Soup). Lobster, Baked (or Lobster i la Braise). —Take the flesh of a large fresh hen lobster, chop it small, then pound it in a mortar, and mix with it a quarter of a small nutmeg, grated, three grains of cayenne, half a salt- spoonful of salt, two table-spoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs, and two well-beaten eggs. Shape the mixture with the hands into its original form. Pound the coral and spawn, and lay them on the meat; then bake in a quick oven. Before serving, put the shell, tail, and small claws upon the meat in such a way as to make it have the appearance of an undressed lobster. Bake a quarter of an hour. Probable cost of a medium-sized lobster, when in full scason, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. LOB ( 386 ) LOB Lobster Balls.—Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled hen lobster, mince it very finely, and pound it in a mortar, with a salt- spoonful of white pepper, half a salt-spoonful of salt, three grains of cayenne, the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, and two ounces of clarified butter. Make the mixture up into balls ‘the size of a largeegg. Dip these into beaten egg, and then into fine dry bread-crumbs. Let them stand a few minutes, then dip them a second time. Fry them in boiling fat till they are lightly browned all over; drain them from the grease, and serve them on a neatly-folded hot napkin. Garnish with parsley. Time, ten minutes to fry. Probable cost of large lobster, from 2s. to 3s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lobster Bashaws.—Prepare the lobster as in the last recipe. Divide the shell into quarters, scrape these thoroughly, and sprinkle over the inside of them some fine dried bread- crumbs. Put in the mixture, cover it thickly with bread-crumbs, pour over the top a quarter of a pound of clarified butter, an ounce over each quarter, and bake in a quick oven. Serve the meat in the shells, neatly arranged on a hot napkin, and garnish with bright green parsley. If on being taken out of the oven the lobster is not sufficiently browned, hold a red-hot iron shovel over it for two or three minutes. Time, ten minutes to bake. Pro- bable cost of a large lobster, from 2s. to 3s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lobster, Boiled.—Wash the lobster well before boiling, especially if it be a hen, tie the claws securely, and throw the lobster, head frst, into plenty of fast-boiling salt. and water. If this be done life will be destroyed instantly. Afterwards let it boil gently. When done enough, take it out, wipe it, and rub the shell with a little salad-oil, which will give it a clear red colour. Care should be taken not to boil a lobster too long, or the meat will be stringy. The Germans put a handful of cara- way-seeds into the salt and water. If not sufficiently boiled the spawn will not be brightly coloured. Time, moderate-sized lobster, fitteen to twenty minutes; large lobster, thirty to forty minutes; very large, one hour. Probable cost, from 1s. 6d. to 3s. Lobster, Broiled.—Take a medium-sized freshly-boiled cock lobster, split it open from head to tail, remove what are called the lady fingers, which are not to be eaten, sprinkle a little white pepper over the meat, and place pieces of butter here and there upon it. Lay the shells open upon a gridiron above a bright, clear fire, and when quite hot, serve ona neatly- folded napkin. Time to broil, a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pro- bable cost, 1s. 6d. to 3s. Lobster Butter.—Take the spawn or coral of a hen lobster and pound it ina mortar with a little salt and cayenne pepper, and twice the weight in fresh butter. Rub the mixture through a sieve, and put it in a cool place until wanted for use. This butter will Keep a long time, and as lobsters with spawn eannot always be obtained, the cook should endeavour to keep some always on hand, as it is needed for sauce, and other dishes. Special care should be taken to break the seeds when pounding the spawn. When the spawn cannot be had, pound the shell of the lobster very finely with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Put it ina jar, and place this jar in a saucepan of boiling water. Let it boil gently for an hour, then press the butter through a cloth into a basin of cold water. When it has stiffened, lift it from the water, drain it, pass it through a sieve, and mix with it an equal quantity of fresh butter. Probable cost of lobster, 1s, 6d. and upwards. Lobster, Buttered.—Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled cock lobster. Mince it finely, and put it into a stewpan with an ounce and a half of fresh butter rolled in flour. Stir it over a gentle fire until quite hot, then add the eighth of a nutmeg, grated, a dessert- spoonful of chilli vinegar, or, if this is not at hand, common vinegar may be used, and three grains of cayenne, with half a salt-spoonful of white pepper in it. Two table-spoonfuls of rich gravy area great improvement to this dish. Stir the mixture gently over the fire until it is quite hot. Serve it in the shell of the lobster with bread-crumbs over the meat. Time to simmer, ten minutes. Probable cost, from 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. ; Lobster, Buttered (another. way).— Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled cock lobster. Mince it finely, and put it into astew- pan with an ounce and a half of butter, rolled in flour, half a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt- spoonful of white pepper, the eighth of a small nutmeg, grated, a wine-glassful of sherry, the same of rich gravy, and a table-spoonful of lemon-pickle. When quite hot, put the mix- ture into the shells, and garnish with parsley and small three-cornered pieces of toasted bread, Time to heat, about a quarter of an hour. Pro- bable cost, 3s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Lobster, Choosing a.—Unboiled lobsters should be heavy and full of motion, whichis an indication of their being fresh. If they are thickly crusted, they are old. Medium-sized lobsters, when heavy, are often better than large ones. The flavour of the flesh of the cock lobster is finer than that of the hen. It may be known by the narrowness of the back part of the tail, and by the stiffness of the two uppermost fins within it. When lobsters are freshly boiled their tails are stiff, and when lightly pulled return with a spring. Lobster, Cold.—Take off the large claws and crack the shell lightly, without disfiguring the fish. Split open the tail with a sharp knife, and dish the fish on a folded napkin, with the head in an upright position in the centre, and the tail and claws arranged neatly round it. Garnish with parsley. Salt, cayenne, mus- tard, salad-oil, and vinegar should be eaten with it. Sufficient, a medium-sized lobster for two or three persons. Lobster, Cold, Dressed.—Pick the meat from the shell, mince it finely, and mix it witha little salad-dressing, or with a few bread- crumbs, a little salad-oil, salt, pepper, mustard, . LOB ( 387 ), LOB and vinegar, the quantities to be regulated by taste and the size of the lobster. Probable cost, from 1s. 6d. Sufficient, a medium-sized lobster for two or three persons. - Lobster Croquettes.— Pick the meat carefully from the shell of a freshly-boiled hen lobster, and mince it very finely. Pound the coral and spawn in a mortar, and mix with it a little grated nutmeg, three grains of cayenne, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, two table-spoon- fuls of white sauce, and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. Add the minced lobster, and stir all these ingredients over a gentle fire until the egg is‘set. Spread the mixture on a plate, and when cold, make it up into the shape of corks. Dip these in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat until they are lightly browned all over. Drain them, and pile them upon a folded napkin, in a hot dish, Garnish with parsley. Time, eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 2s. Sutficient for four or five persons. Lobster Curry.—Tlick the meat from the shell of a freshly-boiled medium-sized lobster, and cut it into neat square’ pieces. Mix a dessert-spoonful of curry smoothly with a quar- ter of a pint of good stock. Mince two onions finely. Fry them in alittle butter until they are tender without being browned, dredge a tea-spoonful of flour over them, pour over them the curry powder and stock, and stir the mix- ture until it thickens. Put in the pieces of lobster, and stew gently for half an hour. Just before serving, add a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Put the lobster on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and send rice boiled as for curries to table with it. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lobster Cutlets.—Cut the meat from a moderate-sized hen lobster into small dice. Beat half an ounce of butter and an ounce of flour over the fire till smooth, then add a gill of water, boil, and stir in a table-spoonful of cream, six drops of lemon-juice, salt, pepper, ‘and cayenne, with lobster butter (see Lobster Butter) to redden the whole, and the lobster meat. Stir the mixture over the fire, pour it on a plate till cold, then flour lightly and form into cutlets about a third of an inch thick and three inches long, stick a little piece of one of the small claws into each, dip each into beaten egg, and roll it in breadcrumbs. Let the cutlets stand a few minutes, then dip them in egg and bread-crumbs a second time. Fry them in hot fat until they are lightly coloured, and place each cutlet as it is finished on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire. Arrange in a circle on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley. Time, two or three minutes to fry. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Lobster, Cutlets (another way).— Sve Cutlets of Lobster or Crab. Lobster Cutlets, Quickly Made.— Choose a very large:lobster. Let it be half Doiled; take the: flesh. out whole, cut it into slices a quarter of an inch thick, and dip these into beaten egg and highly-seasoned bread-crumbs. Let them stand ten minutes, then dip them again, and fry them in hot butter till they are lightly browned all over. Drain them from the fat, and arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour a quarter of a pint of lobster sauce into the centre, and send to table as hot as possible. Hot pickles should accompany this dish. The sauce should be made in the ordinary way. Time, eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster, Dressed, with Sauce Piquant.—Pick the meat from the body and claws of a freshly-boiled cock lobster, and divide it into neat pieces, about half an inch square. Take the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, pound them well, and mix with them a tea-spoonful of raw mustard, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a grain of cayenne. Add very gradually, by drops at first, beating well between every addition, four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, and afterwards two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and a dessert-spoonful of very hot chilli vinegar. This sauce ought to be of the consistency of good cream. Pour it just before serving over the lobster, and garnish with parsley. Time, half an hour to prepare. Pro- bable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. ‘ Lobster Fricassee.—Pick the meat from the tail and claws of a medium-sized lobster, cut it into small squares, and put these in a saucepan with half a pint of good white sauce, pound the coral, and mix it smoothly with the liquid. Season with half a salt-spoonful of salt and half a salt-spoonful of white pepper and pounded mace mixed. "When the mixture is on the point of boiling take it from the fire, let it cool a moment, then add a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. ‘The white sauce may be. madc of a quarter of a pint of good beef stock and a quarter of a pint of cream, thickened with a little arrowroot; or, if no beef stock is at hand, the shell of the lobster may. be boiled in half a pint of water and cream, flavouring and thicken- ing being added to it. Time, about ten minutes to bring the sauce to the boiling point.. Pro- bable cost, 28s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. : Lobster,. Gratin of.—Take the meat from a good-sized lobster, cut the body in half, and pick out all the meat, which must be cut into thin slices. Puta piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, with three shallots, finely minced. Brown them lightly, then mix iv a table-spoonful of flour, and when quite smooth, half a pint of milk. Boil for five minutes. Putin the sliced lobster, a table-spoon- ful of chopped parsley, a littlc salt and cayenne, and half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies. Stir all over the fire, and when boiling draw the saucepan back, and add the well-beaten yolk of an egg. Fill the shell of the lobster with the mixture, sprinkle bread-crumbs over it, and pour on a little clarified butter. Put the shell in a hot oven for twenty minutes, dish ‘on anapkin, and serve. Probable cost of lobster, 3s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster, Mayonnaise of.—Take out the meat of a freshly-boiled hen lobster, and cut it into small neat squares. Trim and wash two LOB ( 388 ) LOB large fresh lettuces, or any other salad, taking great care that they are quite dry before being used. Cut or tear these into neat pieces, and arrange a layer of them at the bottom of a large dish, place several pieces of lobster upon them, and repeat until the materials are finished. Just before serving pour over them a sauce made as follows :—Beat the yolks of two raw eggs for two or three minutes, until they begin to feel thick, add, by drops at first, ten table-spoonfuls of best salad-oil, and four of tarragon vinegar. The mixture should be as thick and. smooth as cream. The secret of making a mayonnaise is to add the liquid gradually, and to beat well between every addition. Season the sauce with half a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, half a salt- spoonful of salt, and half a salt-spoonful of white pepper. Cover the salad with the liquid. At the last moment, sprinkle over it the lobster coral, which has been powdered and well sifted, and garnish the dish with sliced beetroot and hard-boiled eggs. Time, an hour to prepare. Probable cost of lobster, 1s. 6d. and upwards. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Lobster, Miroton of.—Soak the crumb of a penny roll until it is quite soft in as much cream as will just cover it. Pick all the meat from a medium-sized, freshly-boiled hen lobster, pound it with the spawn thoroughly in a mortar, and mix with it the soaked crumb, and the well-beaten yolks of three fresh eggs. Season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Just before boiling the mixture, add a whole ‘egg, which has been well whisked. Line a plain round mould with some thin slices of ham, fat and lean together, pour in the mixture, and boil until it is done enough. Send lobster sauce to table with it. Time to boil, an hour and twenty minutes. Probable cost of lobster, 1s. 6d. and upwards. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lobster Patties.—Take a medium-sized, freshly-boiled hen lobster, pick out the meat from the tail and claws, mince it finely, and put it into a stewpan With a dessert-spoonful of the spawn, pounded and sifted, an ounce of butter, a tea-spoonful of cream, a tea-spoonful of veal jelly, half a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies, a tea-spoonful of grated lemon- rind, and a little salt, pepper, pounded mace, and cayenne. Stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes. Line some patty-pans with good puff paste, which has been rolled out a quarter of an inch thick, put a crust of bread into each, to preserve its form, lay on the covers, ornament the edges with the back of a knife, brush them over with yolk of egg, and bake in a quick oven. When the patties are baked, take out the bread, partially fill them with the hot mixture, replace the covers, and serve immediately. Dish them on a neatly- folded napkin. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake the patties, five minutes to stew the mixture. Probable cost, 8d. each. Sufficient for three dozen patties. Lobster Pie.— Pick the meat from two medium-sized, freshly-boiled lobsters, and cut it into small, neat pieces. Bruise the shells and spawn ina mortar, and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pint of water, three spoonfuls of vinegar, half a tea-spoonful of salt and pepper, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pounded mace. Simmer gently until the goodness is extracted, then strain the gravy, thicken it with an ounce of butter rolled in flour, and let it boil again. Line the edges of the pie-dish with good puff paste, put in the pieces of lobster, strain the gravy over them, and strew some finely-grated bread-crumbs on them ; lay the cover over all, and bake in a moderate oven. When the paste is done, the pie is ready. Serve either hot or cold. Time to bake, about an hour and a quarter. Probable cost of lobsters, 1s. 6d. and upwards. Suflicient for six or eight persons. Lobster, Potted.—Pick out all the meat from a medium-sized, freshly-boiled hen lobster, and pound it and the coral in a mortar to a smooth paste. Mix with it a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, a grain of cayenne, half a tea- spoonful of white pepper, the eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, and a quarter of a pound of clarified butter. A few shrimps may be added or not. When thoroughly pounded, press the mixture into jars, and pour cool clarified butter over. When the butter is set the lobster is ready to serve. The white meat of the claws should be pounded apart from the rest. Time, an hour and a half to prepare. Probable cost of lobster, 1s. 6d. Sufticient for half a dozen persons. Lobster, Potted (another sie! — Pick the meat from a medium-sized, freshly-boiled hen lobster. Tear the white part into flakes with two forks, and pound a table-spoonful of it with the soft parts and the spawn in a mortar. Use the same seasoning as in the last recipe. ‘When ready, press the red and white meat into jars in layers, and cover with clarified butter. ‘When prepared in this way the appearance of the lobster is better than when the last recipe is followed, but the meat will not keep so long. Time, about an hour and a half to prepare. Probable cost of lobster, 1s. 6d. Sufficiegt for half a dozen persons. Lobster, Potted (another way).—Take ten medium-sized, freshly-boiled lobsters, half of which should be hens, and half cocks. Pick out the red, the spawn, and the soft meat, and divide the white meat into neat pieces. Butter an earthen jar rather thickly. Put in the pieces of lobster in layers. Sprinkle a little seasoning, and place a slice of butter over each layer. When the jar is full, tie three or four folds of paper over it, and place it in a moderate oven until it is quite hot. Take out the pieces of lobster, let the butter drain from them, and put them again into the jar with a little of the drained butter. Dissolve the rest of the butter with a small quantity of white wax, and pour it over the pieces of lobster when cold. Cover securely with bladder, and keep in a cool dry place. The seasoning should be pounded in a mortar to a powder, and should consist of a quarter of an ounce of mace, a nutmeg, three cloves, half an ounce of white pepper, and an ounce of salt. Two pounds of fresh butter will be required for this number of lobsters. Time, about half an LOB ( 389 ) LOB 7 hour to bake. each. . Lobster Quenelles.—Pick the meat from a freshly-boiled ben lobster. Pound the flesh of the claws, the coral, and the spawn in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of butter, the flesh of a large whiting, and six ounces of panada (see Panada). Add the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, and season with a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, a pinch of salt, a grain of cayenne, and the eighth of a nutmeg, grated. When thoroughly pounded, form the forcemeat into the shape of the bowl of a spoon. The quenelles may be either fried in hot butter, and served with lobster sauce as an extrée, or be used for garnish, &c. Time, ten minutes to fry. Pxobable cost of lobster, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Lobster Quenelles (another way).—See Quenelles, Lobster, for Fish Soups. : Lobster, Rissoles of.—Pick the meat from a small newly-boiled fresh lobster. Mince it finely, and mix with it half a tea- spoonful of salt, « tea-spoonful of finely-shred parsley, and a pinch of cayenne, and pour upon it the strained juice of half a small lemon. Fry an inch of sliced onion in butter until tender, pour over it a quarter of a pint of Probable cogt of lobsters, 1s. 6d. cream, simmer for three or four minutes, | then put in the minced lobster; add the yolks . of two eggs, and stir all over the fire until the eggs are set. Spread the mixture on a dish, and let it remain until cold. Roll out some good puff paste to the thickness of the eighth of an inch. Place small balls of the mince | upon it at short distances from each other. Moisten the paste round them with a little water, and cover them with more paste. Press the edges securely, trim them neatly, dredge a little four over them, and fry them in hot fat until lightly browned. Dish them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve hot. Probable cost of small lobster, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster, Roast.— Lobsters are occa- sionally half roasted and half boiled, instead of being boiled until done enough in the usual way. When half done, they are taken out of the water, dried, rubbed over with butter, placed on « dish before the fire, and basted iberally until they are well frothed. The usual plan, however, is the best. Lobster Salad.—Pick the meat from the body of a lobster, take out the tail part in one piece, and cut it, with the contents of the claws, into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Chop the whites of two hard-boiled eggs small, and rub the yolks through a hair sieve. Do the same with the spawn or coral of the lobster, but mix the soft part and any bits with the sauce. Pour the sauce into the bowl, put in a layer of shred lettuce and small salad, and place the slices of lobster, with hard-boiled eggs, quartered, and interspersed with sliced beetroot, cucumber, &c., on the top. Repeat in the same manner until the bowl is full, sprink- ling the egg and coral over and between the layers. To ornament, reserve some of the hard-boiled eggs, yolks and whites; arrange these, with the coral, beetroot, and sliced lobster, so that the colours may contrast well Before serving, pour some mayonnaise sauce over the top. Crab may be prepared in the same manner. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Lobster Salad (another way). —In making lobster salad be careful that the lobster is sweet and fresh, and that the lettuces are crisp and dry. Unless the latter are perfectly free from moisture, the sauce, instead of blending properly, will be liable to float in oily particles on the top. Take the meat of one or two large lobsters. Divide it into neat pieces, and season each piece slightly with pepper, salt, and vinegar. Place a bed of shred lettuce- hearts at the bottom of a dish, put a layer of lobster upon it, mixed, if liked, with a few slices of cucumber; cover again with lettuce, and repeat until the materials are exhausted. Decorate the border with any garnish that may suit the taste. It may consist of aspic jelly cut in dice, sliced beetroot, stamped with a cutter, hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, lettuce-hearts, nasturtium flowers, scraped radishes, &c. &c. Pour the sauce over at the last moment, and sprinkle a little powdered and sifted lobster coral on the top. Mayonnaise sauce is the most suitable for all fish salads. It is made as follows :—Beat the yolk of one raw egg until thick. Add a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of pepper, a salt-spoonful of mustard, half a pint of oil, and a quarter of a pint of vinegar, After the salt, pepper, and mustard, the oil should be added, in drops at first, and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, and the sauce should be beaten a minute between each addition. After every six tea-spoonfuls of oil put in a tea-spoontul of vinegar. When finished, the sauce should have the appearance of thick cream. ‘Taste it before serving, to ascertain if the seasoning be agreeable. If the mayonnaise is made before it is to be used, it should be kept in a cool place. Time, an hour to prepare the salad. Probable cost, from 3s. to 58. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Lobster Salad (a German recipe), — Arrange the lobster and the salad as in the last recipe. Boil two eggs until quite hard. Let them get cold, then cut the white part into slices, and lay them on the top of the salad, with a table- spoonful of bruised capers. Rub the yolks smoothly with the back of a spoon; mix with them a raw egg, well beaten, » tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, salt, pepper, and sugar, a shallot finely minced, and four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil. The oil must be added in very small quantities at first, and the mixture: well beaten between each addition. When well mixed and quite smooth, add one table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and, if the sauce is not sufficiently acid to suit the taste, add another spoonful of white wine vinegar. Toast three slices of the crumb of bread, cut them into small triangular pieces, butter them, spread a little caviar upon them, and put them round the salad. Pour the sauce over, and serve. Time to prepare, an hour. Probable cost, 3s. to 5s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Lobster Salad Dressing.—Sauce mayonnaise, as given in the last: recipe but one, is the most suitable dressing for lobster salad.. LOB “(390 ) LOB When oil is not liked, a dressing may be made as follows :—Take the yolks of three eggs, which have been boiled hard and allowed to become cold. Rub them in a bowl with the back of a silver spoon until quite smooth. Add one tea- spoonful of mixed mustard, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, one table-spoonful of cream, and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Beat together until thoroughly mixed. A few drops of oil may be added or not. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Lobster Sauce.—Take the coral from the back and neck of a freshly-hoiled hen lobster. Putit in a mortar and pound it thoroughly with double the quantity of fresh butter, and a little cayenne, and press it through a hair-sieve with the back of a spoon. This is lobster butter. It ought to be of a bright red colour. As it will keep for some time, any that is left should be put into w jar and kept in a cool, dry place until it is again wanted, as lobsters with coral cannot always be obtained. Pick out the white meat, and tear it into flakes with two forks. A small quantity only will be required for the sauce, ‘the rest may therefore be served up some other way (see Lobster Salad, Lobster Rissoles, Lobster Cutlets, &c.)? Break the shell of the lobster into small pieces. Pour three-quarters ofa pint of water over these, and simmer gently until the liquid is reduced to half a pint. Mix two ounces of fresh butter with an ounce of flour. Strain the half-pint of gravy upon it, and stir all over the fire until the mixture thickens, but it must not boil. If despatch is necessary water may be used instead of gravy. Stir into the sauce as much lobster butter as will colour it brightly, add about a table-spoonful of the white meat, and, if liked, the juice of half a small lemon. Let it remain on the fire until the meat is quite hot. It must be remem- bered, however, that if it be allowed to boil the colour will be spoilt. A table-spoonful of cream is sometimes added. Time, two or three minutes to heat the sauce. Probable cost, small lobster, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster Sauce, Mock.—When lobster butter is in the house, lobster sauce may be easily made, and uw little boiled turbot or sole, torn into flakes, may be used as a substitute for the lobster meat. If there is neither lobster butter nor. cold fish, boil a thick fleshy sole. Take the meat from the bones while it is still warm, and when nearly cold smear it over with anchovy paste, or the essence of shrimps. Cut it into small pieces, stir it into the required quantity of melted butter, and when it is heated through, serve immediately. Time, three or four minutes to heat the sauce. Pro- bable cost, 6d. per half-pint. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster, Sauce Piquant for.—Mix a salt-spoontul of raw mustard and a small pinch of salt and pepper smoothly with a dessert- spoontul of cold water; add gradually a quarter of a pint of best vinegar. Stir gently over the fire until the vinegar is hot, then put in two ounces of fresh butter, and serve. ‘Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lobster Sausages.—Pick the flesh from a medium-sized freshly-boiled hen lobster. Mince it finely, and pound it in a mortar with two ounces of fresh butter, a little salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, and half of the coral, which has been pounded separately, and pressed through a hair sieve with the back of a spoon. Shape the mixture into rolls like sausages, sprinkle the rest of the coral over them, and place them in a Dutch oven before a moderate fire until they are quite hot. Serve them ona folded napkin, and garnish with parsley. Time, a quarter of an hour to heat. Probable cost of lobster, about 1s. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Lobster, Scalloped.—Take a freshly- boiled hen lobster. Divide the shell into halves without injuring it, take out all the meat, cut it into dice, and put it aside for a short time. Pound the spawn and coral in a mortar, with an ounce of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a blade of mace, pounded; add a tea-spoonful of anchovy, two table-spoonfuls of white sauce, and a tea- spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Stir all gently over the fire for ten minutes, then put in the meat of the lobster and the yolks of two raw eggs. When quite hot turn the mixture into the two halves of the lobster shells, strew bread-crumbs over, brown them with a sala- mander, and serve on a folded napkin. Garnish. with parsley. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster Soup.—Pick the meat from a large freshly-boiled hen lobster, cut it into squares, and set it in a cool place until wanted. Take away the brown fin and the bag in the head, and beat the small claws, the fins, and the chin in a mortar. Put them into a stew- pan, and with them a small onion, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a stick of celery, the toasted crust of a French roll, a small strip of lemon-rind, a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, and a quart of good unseasoned stock. Simmer all gently together for three-quarters of an hour, then press the soup through a tamis, and return it again to the saucepan. Pound the coral to a smooth paste, press it through a sieve, and mix a little salt, pepper, and cayenne with it. Stir these into the soup, add the pieces, and when quite hot, without boiling, serve. If liked, a few quenelles (see Lobster Quenelles) can be fried in butter, and put into the tureen before the soup is poured in. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lobster Soup (another way).—Pick the meat from the claws, body, and tail of a medium-sized freshly-boiled lobster, cut it into small squares, and put it aside until wanted. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a stew- pan, put in with it a carrot, an onion, four sticks of celery, and three shallots, all sliced, together with a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, and a piece of lemon-rind. Turn these about in the butter for four or five minutes, then mix well with them six ounces of rice flour, add gradually three pints of good stock, and the bruised shell of the lobster. Sinamer geatly for three-quarters of an hour. When the soup is on the point of boiling, stir in with LOB ( 391 ) LOV it the spawn, which has been well bruised in a mortar. Strain the soup through a tamis, return it again to the pan, and skim it, thoroughly. Add a glass of light wine, half a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy, a tea- ‘spoonful of good store sauce, a tea-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, a little cayenne, and, if required, a pinch of salt. Fry some small quenelles (see Lobster ec Weeters put them into the tureen with the pieces of lobster meat, pour on the soup, and serve immediately. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Lobster Soup, with Milk.—Prepare the meat of the lobster as in the last recipe. Cut it very small, and mix with it the crumb of a French roll, finely grated. Puta pint anda half of milk and halt a pint of water in a stewpan, season it with a dessert-spoonful of salt and a salt-spoonful of pepper ; put into it, when boil- ing, the lobster, the French roll, and three ounces of fresh butter. Simmer gently for half an hour, and serve. If liked, preserved lobster can be used for making lobster soup. Lobster, Stewed.—Pick the meat care- fully from a medium-sized freshly-boiled lob- ster, cut it into dice, and put it in an enamelled stewpan, with half a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, half a grain of cayenne, two ounces of fresh butter, a tea- spoonful of mustard, and a dessert-spoonful of vinegar. Stew gently for five or six minutes, then adda glassful of light wine, simmer two or three minutes longer, and serve. Garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon. Probable cost of lobster, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Lobster, Vols-au-vent of, Small.— Vols-au-vent are baked without moulds. They are rather difficult to make, and require great care. They should be made of the richest puff paste, rolled out seven times. Leave the paste about an inch in thickness, and stamp it in rounds with a plain or fluted cutter, about two inches in diameter. Dip a smaller cutter, about an inch and a quarter in diameter, into hot water, and press it partly through the paste, leaving a border all round. Bake in a brisk oven; the vols-au-vent ought to rise consider- ably, and be lightly browned. When they are baked, scoop cut the inside of the piece marked out, being careful to preserve the top for a cover, and turn them on a piece of clean writing- paper to drain and dry. When ready, fill them with a little: minced lobster, prepared as for lobster patties, and serve neatly arranged ona napkin. If, after baking, the crust seems too light to hold the mixture, the inside may be strengthened by being brushed over with beaten egg. Time, about twenty minutes to bake the vols-au-vent. Probable cost, 3d. each. Locofoco Drink.—This is one of the hot drinks peculiar to America. Whisk the | yolks of two fresh eggs for three or four minutes, add a little grated nutmeg, an ounce of honey, and a small glass of curacoa, and beat all together until thoroughly mixed. Add @ pint of heated burgundy, and serve in glasses. London Candy.—Butter the inside of a preserving-pan rather thickly with fresh butter, and have ready prepared two or three buttered plates, « pastry-board dredged with flour and a few strips of whity-brown paper. Put a quart of good treacle into the pan, and with it the grated rind and strained juice of a large, fresh lemon, a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, and half a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, Place the pan over a moderate fire, and let the treacle boil gently for some minutes. Keep dropping a little upon a buttered plate, and aa soon as the drop hardens, pour out at once. Rub the hands with butter, and as soon as the candy is sufficiently cool, pull the candy out, ana, fold it over again and again until it is quite hard. Put it then on the floured board, and cut it with a buttered knife into narrow strips. Twine a piece of paper round each one of these, and store in a cool, dry place. Probable cost of treacle, 6d. London Syllabub.—Put two ounces of loaf sugar with three-quarters of a pint of sherry or madeira into a bowl, and grate half a small nutmeg into it. If practicable, milk into it from the cow a quart of milk; if not, pro- cure the milk as new as possible, make it luke- warm, and pour it from a good height through a strainer upon the wine. Serve the syllabub frothed. Time, two or three minutes to warm the milk. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Lord Mayor’s Trifle.—Slice four penny spongecakes and lay them at the bottom of a deep trifle-dish. Put with them a dozen rata- fias, eight macaroons, and two wine-glassfuls of brandy. When the liquor is soaked up, spread a layer of strawberry or raspberry jam over the spongecakes, and cover them with a pint of rich cold custard. Pile whipped cream high over the top, and ornament with pink comfits. The cream should be whipped some hours before it is needed, and laid upon a reversed sieve to drain. Time, about an hour to whip the cream. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Lorne Soup.—Put three pints of good stock into a stewpan with a carrot, a turnip, a small sprig of lemon-thyme, a bunch of parsley, ’ and a little pepper and salt. Simmer gently for half an hour. Pickall the white meat from the remains of a cold roast chicken, mince it finely, and pound it in a mortar with the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, the crumb of half a French roll which has been soaked in milk and then pressed dry, and two ounces of blanched and pounded almonds. Strain the soup, and return it again to the saucepan. Stir the pounded ingredients thoroughly into it, simmer gently for a few minutes, and serve. Probable cost, Is. per quart, exclusive of the roast chicken. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Love Apple (see Tomato). Love Cakes.—Beat up four eggs with a small tea-cupful of good yeast and half a pint of warm milk. Make a hollow in the centre of a pound and a half of flour, throw in the mixture, and stir all together into a dough; work this dough, and put to it by degrees a V LOZ ( 392) MAC bone of butter, and when thoroughly kneaded et it stand an hour to rise, then mix with it half a pound of sifted sugar, and bake in small cake- pans, previously buttered. Cut candied orange or lemon-peel, and ornament the top. Time, according to size. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Lozenges, Black Currant (see Black Currant Lozenges). Lozenges, Lemon (see Lemon Lozenges). Lozenges, Plum, for Dessert (see Plum Lozenges). Luncheon. — This is a kind of interme- diate meal, and therefore not infrequently an unnecessary one. ‘The English labourer,” says a medical authority, ‘‘has his ‘lunch’ between breakfast and dinner, and again between the latter meal and supper; the English of the higher classes, particularly if their time is not well occupied, are apt to make luncheons a kind of dinner—a meal of animal food and stimulants, which, if superadded to dinner, is certainly unnecessary, and therefore productive of disease. Either the luncheon should be made a bond fide dinner, at an early hour, or it should be a meal without animal ‘food, provided, of course, that an additional amount of animal nutriment is not considered necessary by a medical man, as a remedial measure. Fruit is generally more wholesome at luncheon than in any other part of the day.” Luncheon Cake.—Any good plain cake may be used as a luncheon cake, nevertheless recipes are here given for two or three. Rub half a pound of fresh butter into three-quarters of a pound of fine flour ; add a quarter of a pound of ground rice, a pinch of salt, half a pound of moist sugar, four ounces of currants, picked and washed, half an ounce of caraway seeds, if liked, half a nutmeg, grated, and an ounce of candied lemon cut into thin slices. Mix the dry ingre- dients thoroughly. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in half a pint of boiling milk. Let it cool, then stir into it three eggs well beaten. Moisten the cake with the liquid, and be careful to mix all very thoroughly. Butter a tin, and line the sides with buttered paper. Put im the cake, and bake in a moderate oven. In order to ascertain when the cake is done, push a skewer to the bottom of it, and when it comes out clear and dry the cake is done enough. Let it stand entire for two days before cutting. Time to bake, an hour and a quarter. Pro- bable cost, 1s. 6d. Luncheon Cake, Lrish (see Irish Lun- cheon Cake). Luncheon Cake made from Dough. —Take two pounds of dough just ready for the oven, rub into it two ounces of fresh butter, a quarter of a pound of currants, washed, picked, and dried thoroughly, half a pound of moist sugar, and half a large nutmeg, grated, with a little sliced candied lemon, if liked. These in- gredients should be rubbed into the dough very lightly. Put the mixture into a basin, cover it with a cloth, and let it stand in a warm place to rise. Then Imead the dough, butter some tins, three-parts fill them with the cake, let it again rise for a few minutes, and bake in a | moderate oven. If bread is not made at home, a little dough may be procured from the baker's. Time to bake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. Luncheon Cake, Plain.—Mix two tea- spoonfuls of baking-powder and a pinch of salt with one pound of flour; rub in four ounces of good beef dripping, add a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, six ounces of currants, ‘picked and stoned, half a nutmeg, grated, and a quarter of an ounce of caraway seeds, if liked. Make the mixture up into a paste with two eggs and half a pint of milk, bake in a buttered tin in a moderate oven. This cake is better if left for a day before it is cut into. Time to bake, about an hour and a quarter. Probable cost, 9d. Lyonnaise Sauce for Cutlets, &c.— Cut the stalks from half a dozen large ripe tomatoes. Divide them into halves, and put them into a stewpan with four table-spoontuls of good gravy and a little salt and cayenne, and let them simmer very gently. When quite tender, press them through a hair sieve. Slice two Spanish onions very finely, fry them in a little fresh butter until they are soft and very lightly browned, then put them into a stewpan with the tomato-pulp, two table-spoonfuls of good brown gravy, and a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Stir gently over the fire for three or four minutes, and serve hot. Time, three-quarters of an hour to stew the tomatoes. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. Sufficient for six or cight persons. M Mab’s Pudding (see Queen Mab’s Pud- ding). Macaroni.—This is a peculiar paste or dough, prepared from wheat flour, and manu- factured into tubes or ribbons. It is an Italian invention, and though made by a simple process, has never been produced with such success in any other country. The grain grown in the southern districts of Europe is said to be the best suited to its manufacture, through its possessing a greater amount of gluten than any other sort of grain. The wheat, after being thoroughly washed, is freed from the husks, and ground in water-mills; when hot, water is added, till it is of the consistency of stiff dough. Five different qualities of flour are obtained by five separate siftings, thé last giving the finest and most delicate that can be made. The dough is kneaded by means of a wooden pole, attached to a post fixed in the ground, and worked up and down as a lever, under one end of which the paste is placed. Or the kneading may be accomplished by the less agreeable process of piling up the dough and treading it out with the feet, after which it is rolled with a rolling- pin. In making the dough into tubes and ribbons, a hollow cylindrical cast-iron vessel is used, having the bottom perforated with holes or slits. This is filled with the paste. Then a a of wood or a heavy iron plate is brought own upon it by means of a screw, and in this manner the paste is forced through the MAC ( 393 ) MAC holes, and receives the shape of the perfora- tions. The macaroni is partially baked as it issues from these holes, by a fire placed below the cylinder, and as it descends is drawn away and hung on rods, placed across the room, where in a tew days it dries so as to be fit for use. The manufacture of macaroni is an important Italian industry, the article being not only largely consumed at home, but exported in considerable quantities to all parts of the world. In Geneva alone about 170,000 quintals of wheat are employed every year in its manu- facture. The finest sorts of macaroni are the whitest in colour, and those which do not burst or break up in boiling. In the boiling process, macaroni should swell considerably, and become quite soft, but it should retain its form, other- wise one may conclude that it has not been made of the best wheat. Occasionally macaroni is flavoured and coloured with saffron and turmeric, to suit certain palates. Macaroni (a la Pontiffe). — Boil eight ounces of long straight ribbon macaroni in the usual way, but fifteen minutes will be enough to swell it, which is all that is needed. Drain on a sieve, and when drained put a neat layer of it asa lining over a well-buttered mould ; cover next with a quenelle forcemeat of fowl or rabbit, and fill the mould with game or poultry, boned and filleted, some larks, also boned, and rolled with thin bits of bacon inside each, and some delicate strips or pieces cut into rounds about the size of a shilling, distributed with egg-balls and button mushrooms, pre- viously simmered in gravy, in the mould. Thicken the gravy, a little of which use to moisten the whole, cover with macaroni, and simmer, but do not boil, for an hour. Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Macaroni (a la Reine).—Boil half a pound +f pipe macaroni (see Macaroni, Boiled, 4 I’Ita- lienne). Meanwhile warm slowly in a stewpan three-quarters of a pint of cream, and slice into it half a pound of Stilton or other white cheese, add two ounces of good fresh butter, two blades of mace, pounded, a good pinch of cayenne, and a little salt. Stir until the cheese is melted, and the whole is free from lumps, when put in the macaroni, and move it gently round the pan until mixed and. hot, or put the maca- roni on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. It may be covered with fried bread-crumbs of a pale colour, and dried in a Dutch oven. Time, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Macaroni and Game Pie (see Game and Macaroni Pie). Macaroni (au Gratin).—Break up a pound of macaroni in three-inch lengths, boil as usual, and drain. Put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, the macaroni, twelve ounces of Parmesan and Gruyére cheese ‘mixed, and about a quarter of a pint of some good sauce—béchamel or white sauce. Move the ‘stewpan and its contents over the fire until the macaroni has absorbed the butter, &c., then turn it out on a dish, which should be garnished with croutons. Pile it in the shape of a dome, | cover with bread-raspings, a little clarified butter run through a colander, and brown very lightly with a salamander. Time, three- quarters of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Macaroni (au vin).—Boil two ounces of macaroni from twenty to thirty minutes. Drain ona sieve before the fire. Put into a stewpan two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, a lump of butter, and as much Parmesan, grated, as will make it, when melted, of the consistency of custard. Add the macaroni, and toss well in the pan together. Have ready a French roll that has been steeped in about a pint of wine—it should have been rasped so that no brown crust remains on it. Pour the macaroni hot over the roll, and brown with a salamander. Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Macaroni, Boiled (a Il'Italienne). — Macaroni being a national article of food, the mode of cooking it is best understood in Italy. A better acquaintance with the Italian mode will, we hope, enable English cooks to convert a dish of macaroni into a wholesome and delicious preparation, such as is met with on the Continent. Dishes of macaroni, with tomatoes, truffles, game, or fish, are all good, and there is a great variety to be found in the preceding recipes, such as Macaroni 4 la Pon- tiffe, 4 la Reine, au Gratin, au vin, &c., but one rule should be observed in the boiling of the macaroni. The following recipe, if properly attended to, will insure success:—Put five or six ounces of the best Italian macaroni into plenty of boiling water, not less than three pints, a salt-spoonful of salt, and one of fine pepper;’ simmer for.twenty minutes, and drain. After this first boiling, which should be observed in the preparation of all dishes, return the macaroni to the stewpan, with half a pint of gravy or broth, according to the richness required, and simmer until the maca- roni has imbibed all the liquid. Have ready grated of Parmesan and Gruyére cheese, mixed, a quarter of a pound. Put half the quantity with the macaroni until nearly melted, then add the rest, and an ounce of butter. Move the contents of the pan round in one direction until the cheese has been well incorporated and dissolved inthe macaroni. Turn it out on a hot dish, and serve. In this way macaroni is eaten at most of the best tables in Leghorn and Florence. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 5d. or 6d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Macaroni, Cheese with (see Cheese with Macaroni). Macaroni Cordial. — This favourite French liqueur is thus prepared :—Put half an ounce of the oil of bitter almonds into half a pint of spirits of winé; shake up the mixture every day for two or three days; then infuse it for ten days, with one ounce of Spanish angelica root in three gallons of brandy, one drachm of the essence of lemon, three quarts of clarified sugar, two quarts of milk-flour water, and five quarts of soft water; last of all, filter the whole through a bag. MAC ( 394 ) MAC Macaroni, Croquettes of.—To a tea- cupful of boiled pipe macaroni add about two ounces of meat from a roast pheasant, partridge, hare, or any game, a slice of lean ham, a few mushrooms, or a truffle. Mince separately, and mix these ingredientstogether. Boilabreaktast- cupful of good white sauce until reduced to a quarter of a pint, then simmer in it for a few minutes a salt-spoonful of shallot, chopped fine, a salt-spoonful of sugar, and one of pepper and nutmeg, mixed; lastly, stir in two or three yolks of eggs, and, when these have set, the juice of half a lemon. This sauce may now be thrown over the mince, mixed with it, and lett to get cold, when egg-shaped balls may be iade in a table-spoon, and completed by the hand. Fry with egg and bread-crumbs in boiling lard from eight to ten minutes. Serve with fried parsley as a garnish. Sufficient for a dish. Macaroni Dressed in the English Fashion.—Ribbon or pipe macaroni may be used, and either boiled in milk, broth, or water. To four ounces of macaroni so boiled, add three ounces of grated cheese and a little salt; half the quantity of cheese is often mixed with the macaroni, and the remainder is put over the top, with grated bread-crumbs and a little clarified butter. Brown in an oven, or with a salamander. Kitchener remarks on this mode of dressing, ‘‘that the butter and cheese generally get burned, and in this state maca- roni is unwholesome.” Macaroni (en Timbale).—Boil eight ounces of macaroni in the usual way, and drain them well. Have ready minced the white meat of a cold roast fowl, and a slice or two of lean ham; mix with two table-spoonfuls of grated Parmesan, and moisten with nearly half a pint of thick cream, and the beaten yolks and whites of three eggs. Cover a well-buttered mould with some of the macaroni, and mix the remainder, cut into neat lengths, with the meat, with which mixture fill the mould, and steam for three-quarters of an hour. A pudding paste is sometimes substituted for the lining of macaroni, but in either case steaming is better than boiling. Serve, turned out of the mould, and with a good gravy. Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Macaroni Fish.—Cold cod is most often used for this dish. Separate three ounces of the fish into small flakes, or chop it very finely, if preferred. Mix it with six ounces of macaroni, boiled and drained as before indicated, and three ourices of- grated cheese. - Toss it together for a few minutes in a stewpan, with «4 good lump of butter, or turn it out at once on a hot dish with more grated cheese over the top, to be browned with a salamander. Scollops ot salmon or sturgeon, cooked en timbale, are highly appreciated. Time, one hour to prepare ; twenty to twenty-five minutes to boil macaroni. Probable cost, 5d. to 6d. per pound. Macaroni in Scollop Shells. — Boil eight ounces of macaroni from twenty-five to thirty minutes in the usual way, but throw it into cold water, then drain, and cut into half- inch lengths. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a stewpan, stir in a little tlour, and add a small cup of rich gravy, with a little grated nutmeg, a salt-spoontul of salt, and one of pepper. ‘Toss the macaroni with two or three ounces of grated Parmesan into the sauce, shake and mix it well over the fire, then fill scollop shells, or any fancy shapes, with the mixture, which cover with more grated cheese, run clarified butter or spread sardine butter over the top, and bake quickly, or brown before the fire. Macaroni Nudels.—Nudel paste, like Italian macaroni, to which it is nearly allied, is « ‘“‘home-made” preparation of eggs and flour, useful in a variety of ways, and equally applicable to sweet and savoury dishes.’ It is made thus :—Take as many eggs as will be re- quired for the quantity of paste to be made, but use only the whites of eggs if preferred quite white. Work in as much flour to two well- beaten eggs as will make a stiff dough, knead until smooth, and roll out, first dividing the mass into six parts, and each part into a round ball, on a pasteboard kept well dredged with flour. . ‘ - 28 12 » First hind-quarter 7 : . 88 8 Second ,, 3 zi A 32 0 ‘ Joints of one side. Haunch + age a BO Loin. ae) ee . . - 10 4 Neck. 2... Ow dO Shoulder . . ‘ ‘ . 1012 ‘Breast . : 3 5 7 4 8 Loss. ‘ ‘ si - 0 12 ‘Mutton (Invarip Cooxery).—When mutton is tender it is the meat best adapted for invalids and-persons whose digestive organs are not of the strongest. The. best:and most nourishing cutlets are those cut out: of the centre of the leg. = Mutton, Australian, and Stewed Carrots (see Australian Mutton, &.). ' Mutton, Australian, Boiled, and Caper Sauce (see Australian Mutton, &c.). Mutton, Breast of, Boiled.—Take out the bones, gristle, and some of the fat; flatten it om. the pasteboard, and cover the surface thinly with. a forcemeat composed of bread- crumbs, minced savoury herbs, a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and an egg,to bind. The forcemeat: should not be spread too nearthe securély, to keep the forcemeat in its place. If gently boiled, and sent to table hot, and smothered with good caper sauce, it will be generally liked: ‘Time,two hours to boil. Pro- bable cost, 8d. per pound. : . Mutton, Breast of, To,Collar.—Skin the breast, and free it entirely from bone and gristle. When flat on the board, cover it with beaten egg, and. have ready .a.forcemeat, com- posed of the following ingredients :—A large coma of bread-crumbs, some chopped: parsley, lade of pounded mace, two cloves, the. peel of half a lemon, chopped as small as possible, a couple of anchovies, and the yolks of three or I Mix and pound in a mortar; adding pepper and salt to taste. Cover the breast with the forcemeat, roll it firmly, tie with tape, and put it into a stéwpan with boiling water, and simmer gently until tender, or bake, if preférred. To boil, two hours; to bake, twenty minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 7d. to 8d. per pound. Sufii- cient for four or five persons. ‘Mutton, Breast of, with Peas. — Cut about two pounds of the breast of mutton into » MUT (489 ) MUT rather small square:pieces. Put them into a stewpan with ‘about an ounce of butter, and: brown them nicely, then cover with weak broth’ or water, and stew for an hour.’ Remove the meat from the stewpan, and clear-the gravy from fat. Put the meat into a clean stewpan, add an onion, or shallot, sliced finely, a bunch of sweet herbs, some pepper and salt, and strain the. gravy. overall. Stew for another hour, when put, in a quart of young peas, and in about fifteen moinutes serye. Macaroni may be put in the place of peas. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. | . Mutton: Broth. — Lean meat is best for broth; from two to three pounds of the: scrag end of the neck is suited to the purpose, and if for a plain broth, not requiring ‘much strength, allow a quart of water to each pound of meat. Put quite cold water on the meat, and set it over a slow fire to heat gradually, Simmer gently, and remove the scum. When no more cum, is to. be seen, and the meat is sufficiently Nene to be eaten, it may be removed for the family dinner, and any addition to the broth made. Pearl barley, rice, or oatmeal, with a carrot, a turnip, an onion or leek, may be added, the vegetables being cut neatly. Season to taste. Warm up the meat, and serve in a separate uk or with the broth, Pearl barley should be boiled separately for a few minutes, and then strained, and boiled with. the broth. Time to simmer meat, an hour amd a half. Sufficient for two quarts of broth. a ' Mutton Broth (Invauw Cooxery).—Boil two pounds of the scrag end of a neck of mutton in abgut three pints of cold water, and if the patient, can digest vegetables, it will be much improved by the addition of a little turnip, par- sley, finely minced, andonion. Putin the vege- tables when the broth boils, and simmer three hours, take off the scum as it rises. Strain, and let it grow cold, then take off the fat. If pearl barley be added, it should be boiled as long as the meat,,and before being put with it should be boiled in water for ten minutes, drained, and afterwards added to the broth. Veal may be boiled in the same manner; the knuckle is the part generally used for broth. Probable cost, 7d.. Sufficient for a pint and a half to two pints. : : as ans Mutton Broth, Mock.—Mix: a: table- spoonful ‘of oatmeal to a smooth batter with three table-spoonfuls of cold water, and stir: to ita pint of boiling water. Pour this into 4 sauce- pan and boil,-and stir for five minutes, adding, when as thick as required, a few drops. of the essence ‘of sweet -herbs, a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and:salt and pepper to-taste. Mutton Broth, Nourishing and Delicate.—Take three pounds of the knuckle part-of the leg of mutton, separate the shank- bone, that it may lie flat in the saucepan. Cover with cold water, and mix-in a table-spoonful ‘of Scotch barley, which should ‘be kept stirred until thé water boils, then remove from ‘the fire to simmer, adding salt, and skimming the surface while any scum rises. Strain. off the broth’ for’ use, and serve the mutton with thé barley round it. Time, three hours and a half to simmer. ms ‘boiling ater. ‘Mutton Broth, Quickly Made.—Cut ‘two-thick chops from.the neck, but remove the. bones and all fat. Cut the meat into dice, and put it into a stewpan with a.pint of cold water; then scrape the bones, break them, and add them, with a very small onion,.a sprig of pargley and thyme, and some pepper and salt, to. the stew- :pan. Bring the water to the boil quickly, skim ‘well, draw back, and simmer gently for twenty toinutes, when the broth willbe ready. Take off every particle of fat; this is, much easier’ done when the broth is allowed to cool. It should he re-warmed by setting the basin into Probable cost, 1s. 2d. per pound. ya Mutton Broth, Scotch, in Summer. —Boil four pounds of lean mutton in four quarts of water, stir into it eight ounces of Scotch parley. Keep it well mixed until the water. boils, and skim the surface carefully: while simmering.as fast as the scum rises. Cut | up a couple of carrots, a turnip, and an onion; add these, with a quart or more of green-peas, a few sprigs of parsley, and a dessert-spoonful of pepper and salt, mixed. The vegetables should not be allowed to ‘boil a longer time than is required to cook them. Scotch broth may be made of beef or veal. Time, two hours and'a half altogether. Sufficient for three quarts. Mutton, Casserole of, Plain:—The remains of under-done leg of mutton cut into small neat slices, and seasoned appropriately, may be boiled in a basin with.a lining of suet- crust, or in “plain casserole,” which is in a mould. thickly lined with mashed potatoes. The mould should be very well. buttered,, and when filled with the’ meat, moisten with some thick meat-gravy, and cover with more: mashed potatoes. ‘Turn out on a dish, and have ready some more gravy to serve with it.. Bake for half an‘hour. Mutton Chops.—Take chops from the best end of the neck, saw. off ‘about-four-inches from the top and the chinebones. Cut away the skin and gristle from the wpper end of the bone, which will give the eritlet a round, plump appearance. Sprinkle each chop with salt and pepper, and dip them separately into dissolved butter. Strew with bread-crumbg;..and broil over.a olear slow fire, that.the crumbs:may not acquiré tod. much colour; or, oil each chop slightly, and broil over a brisk fire. A trimmed mutton cutlet of five ounces in weight. will réquire about six minutes to cook. Time, with bread-crumbs, seven or eight minutes: . : Mutton Chops (i la Soyer). — First select well-fed mutton, but not too fat, and get the.chops evenly cut; it not, beat them into shape with the chopper. Not more.than; one-third of the chop should be fat. Put:an.ounce of butter or lard into ‘the frying-pan ; when it is entirely melted seize the chop at the bone end with a fork, and dip it for half a minute into, the fat, then turn on one side, sprinkle with ‘salt and pepper, and, if liked, finely-chopped shallot or onion, and savoury herbs: In three; minutes turn, and serve the other, side the same; equalise. the cooking. by frequent, turning, but give the chop altogether not more than ten MUT ( 440 ) MUT minutes if thick, but less if a thin one. A piece of garlic, if the flavour be approved, may be rubbed across the dish when hot, or it may be rubbed lightly across the chop. Serve with in or maitre d'hétel butter. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for two persons. Mutton Chops, Grilled.—Shred some shallot or onion, and mince some savoury herbs ; put these into a stewpan with a lump of butter. Have ready-trimmed chops from the loin of mutton, dip each one separately into the dis- solved butter, and cover quickly with finely- prepared bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt. Broil on one side for three minutes, then turn on the other. The fire should be slow and even, that the bread-crumbs may not acquire too much colour; by turning them several times the cooking will be equalised. Serve hot, with a bit of plain butter on the top of each chop. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Mutton Chops with Vegetables.— Where vegetables are to be had fresh from the garden, and in plenty, the following mode of cooking chops will be found economical, as well as wholesome and agreeable to the palate :—Fry the chops, having first trimmed them into good shape, in butter, until half done, seasoning them with pepper and salt. Have ready by the time the chops are fried any seasonable vege- tables—asparagus tops, peas, celery, carrots, turnips—all cut as nearly the same size as possible, and stewed in a little good white broth. Make a gravy with the butter in the pan, after frying a little shred onion, thicken it with flour, and add it and the chops to the stewpan with the vegetables. Shake them well together over the fire until they are quite done, and serve with the sauce over and about the chops. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four persons. Mutton Collops.—Shred two or three shallots, a sprig or two of parsley, and a small bunch of savoury herbs. Take a few thin slices from the leg or loin of mutton, as under- dressed as possible, and of equal sizes, sprinkle them with the chopped herbs, salt, pepper, and a little pounded mace; fry the collops slightly in butter, about two ounces, add a good cup of gravy, a piece of butter kneaded with a dessert- spoonful of flour, some chopped capers drained from their vinegar, or a little lemon-juice. Simmer for a few minutes, and serve quickly when done. Chopped gherkins may be used instead of capers. Sufficient, one pound and a half of meat for four persons. Mutton (Cooked like Venison).—A fillet or neck of mutton, if prepared by being well hung (in cold weather, at least seven or eight days), and then steeped for a day or two in a mixture of vinegar and red wine, three or four bay- leaves, the same of shred shallots, and half an ounce of black pepper and allspice, pounded and well rubbed into the meat before steeping, will be found nearly equal to veniaon. When to be cooked, it should be washed in warm water, wiped dry, and inclosed in a paste of fiour and water, which should be removed a quarter of an hour before serving. Dredge lightly with flour, sprinkle with salt, and baste until of a light brown colour. Send good gravy to table ina tureen, seasoned ofly with salt, and unmelted. currant-jelly, on a plate. Mutton, Curried, Good.—Put four ounces of butter into a stewpan, and pound six middle-sized onions in a mortar; add the onions: to the butter with an ounce of curry powder, a- tea-spoonful of salt, a dessert-spoonful of flour, and half a pint of cream. Stir until smooth. Fry two pounds of mutton, cut in neat pieces, without bone. Let them be of a light brown colour. Lay the meat into a clean stewpan,. and pour the curry mixture over. Simmer until the meat is done. Time, two hours to simmer. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Suffi- cient, two pounds for four or five persons. Mutton, Curried, Plain.—Fora curry of cooked meat, cut the mutton into thin slices,. or into dice, according to the quantity of meat. to be curried. Put two ounces or more of but- ter into a stewpan, and two good-sized onions, chopped. Stir the onions in the butter until of a pale brown, add an ounce of curry powder, and the same of flour, with a little salt; mix and stir for five minutes, moisten with a cup of stock, and stew gently for a few minutes longer. Put in the meat, and simmer until done, but do not let it boil. Serve with rice round the dish. Mutton Cutlets (4 la Maintenon).— Put a heaped table-spoonful of finely-chopped shallot into a pan with an ounce of fresh butter, and simmer them for five minutes. Add two table-spoonfuls of minced mushrooms and the same of chopped parsley, which should be first. blanched and dried in a cloth; fry these and the shallot together for another five minutes, without burning them. Season with pepper and salt, and add some highly-flavoured meat- gravy. Have ready-trimmed mutton cutlets of two bones thick, the chinebone sawed off and one of the long ones removed. Split the meat carefully and neatly in two, nearly down to the bone, and insert some of the seasoning pre- viously prepared. Close the edges by folding the under part of the cutlet over the upper, and broil on each side for five minutes, or until the meat is of a nice rich brown. Place the cutlets on a dish, and surround them with the sauce; pour the remainder over, and bake for about. four minutes in a hot oven. There are other recipes for Cutlets 4. la Maintenon, but this one may certainly challenge comparison with any other, and it has besides the advantage of greater simplicity of preparation. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, 4 pound anda half for two or more persozs. Mutton Cutlets (4 la Minute).—The mutton for these cutlets should be cut from the middle of the leg, in the same direction as when carving for a dinner, but slice it rather thinner, and season slightly with pepper. Fry the meat quickly over a brisk fire, to make it crisp, turn- ing it often. Let the cutlets be kept warm before the fire while the gravy is preparing. Have ready some mushrooms, chopped with a shallot, a sprig or two of parsley and thyme MUT ( 441) MUT minced fine. Stew these in the butter for a few minutes, and season with salt and more pepper, if necessary. Thicken, skim, and serve round the cutlets. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Mutton (a la Portugaise)—Cut and trim some neat cutlets from the best end of the neck, the bone te be cut short and the top scraped elean. Season with pepper and salt, and strew over them chopped parsley and shallot. Fry them slightly, adding a couple of bay- leaves and a small bit of garlic about the size of apea. Take the cutlets out, and wrap each one in a buttered paper, covering the paper and cutlet with forcemeat. Broil them on a grid- iron over a slow even fire. Make a gravy in the frying-pan, add a dessert-spoonful of vinegar, a small tea-spoonful of anchovy-sauce, with salt and pepper. Pour it round the cutlets, and serve hot. Time, five minutes to fry; eight minutes to broil. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. Mutton Cutlets (4 la Provengale).— Saw off the upper rib-bones from a neck of mutton, also the chine-bone, and divide the meat into neat cutlets, leaving only three inches of bone to each of them. Trim off all superfluous fat, season with pepper and salt, and fry lightly in a stewpan with an ounce of good fresh butter. Make a seasoning as follows :—Stew over a slow fire, and in a closed stewpan, ten middle-sized onions chopped fine, and a small bit of garlic. Of the latter, take only enough to flavour, with- out giving any colour to the butter. When tender, add pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon, with the yolks of four raw eggs. Stir until the seasoning has become a thick paste; then, with a knife, spread it equally and thickly over the upper side of the cutlets, brush over with beaten egg, and cover with grated Parmesan and fried bread-crumbs. Bake the cutlets with a little good gravy to keep them from sticking to the pan. When done, serve them in a circle round a dish, and fill the centre with potatoes cut to an olive shape or in round balls, and pre- viously fried in butter. A good gravy round the dish. Time, ten minutes to bake. Suffi- cient, two pounds for four or five persons. Mutton Cutlets (& la Soubise).—Cutlets may be taken from the leg if lean cutlets are preferred, but the neck or loin may be ad- vantageously used, when the chops should be cut two bones thiek, but removing one of them and also the chine-bone. About four inches is a good length for the cutlet. Ifcut from the leg, Jard with bacon and tongue. (See Lard, To.) Stew the cutlets in good well-seasoned veal or chicken stock sufficient te cover them, and when. done press them between two dishes to flatten, then drain them. In the meantime prepare the Soubise sauce. First peel and blanch eight onions, slice them into a stewpan with. more of the stoek, and simmer them gently, without allowing them to get colour, until they are nearly dissolved, then add a similar quantity of péchamel sauee, and strain through a fine hair- sieve. Put the cutlets into this purée to warm up, and serve with croustades or more onions, prepared as before, but not crushed. The cut- lets may also be served with French beans, or any vegetable without a marked flavour of its own. ‘Time, until tender, about three- quarters of an hour.. Probable cost,'10d. to 1s. per pound. Sufficient, two cutlets for each person. : Mutton Cutlets and Mashed Pota- toes.—Proceed as directed for mutton cutlets with tomato purée (see Mutton Cutlets with Tomato Purée), or the cutlets may be broiled. Have ready boiled two pounds of mealy potatoes. Beat them to a smooth paste with two ounces of butter, a wine-glassful of milk, and pepper and salt to taste. Place them in the centre of the dish with the cutlets, meat- side downwards, round the potatoes. Time, cutlets, seven or eight minutes. Probable cost, with two pounds of mutton, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Mutton Cutlets and Purée of Po- tatoes.—Boil or steam two pounds of mealy potatoes, mash them with a wooden spoon, or press them through a sieve, but they must be smooth. Put them into a stewpan with two or three ounces of butter, two or three table- spoonfuls of cream or broth, pepper and salt. Make them hot, and pile them in the centre of a hot dish. The cutlets may be bread-crumbed and fried, or, if preferred, broiled and served round the purée. ‘Time, an hour to prepare. Sufficient for three or four persons. Mutton Cutlets (au naturel).— These cutlets may be taken either from the leg or from the ribs. If from the ribs, cut off all superfluous fat, and when well trimmed dip each one into clarified butter, cover with bread- crumbs seasoned with pepper and salt, and broil just long enough to heat them through; then dip them again into the butter, to be again bread-crumbed, and thecooking completed. Lay them before the fire on white paper, and press slightly with another paper over them. Serve with a sauce as follows :—Stew in half a pint of brown gravy a handful of button mushrooms chopped, a sprig of parsley, half a bay-leaf, and the same of shallot shred finely; thicken with butter rolled in flour: take out the bay- leaf, and add more salt and pepper if required. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Suflicient, two pounds for four or five persons. Mutton Cutlets, Italian.—Trim cutlets from the neck of mutton into good shape; if not even, beat them to make them so. Cut off all superfluous fat. Lay them for a few minutes in a marinade of salad-oil and minced savoury herbs, or, if preferred, dip them in clarified butter, and again into beaten egg. Cover them with a seasoning as follows:—Chop extremely fine some button mushrooms, or if these cannot be procured use mushroom powder. Prepare bread-crumbs, parsley, and savoury herbs (of each a table-spoonful), and reduce them to powder; shred a shallot, and mince half a tea-spoonful of lemon-peel. Put these ingredients with a little pounded mace into a basin, and when mixed use for the cutlets, and fry a nice light colour in butter. Make a good gravy in the pan by browning a little more butter with a dessert-spoonful or more of flour, moisten with a large cup of veal MUT ( 442) MUT stock, adding any sauce (Harvey, soy, mush- room ketchup, &c.), and a dessert-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. When ‘boiled and thick enough, dish the cutlets .in a-circle (they should have been kept warm), and pour the sauce round them., Time, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient, three pounds for six persons, Mutton Cutlets, Italian (another way.) —Clarify four ounces of butter, into which dip some carefully-trimmed cutlets of the best.end of the neck of mutton,,then immerse them in the beaten yolk of one or more eggs. Passa cupful of bread-crumbs through a colander, to which add a little chopped lemon-peel, two shallots, a few sprigs of parsley, and a table- spoonful of savoury herbs, all minced; season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Cover the cutlets thickly with these ingredients, and them a rich brown in butter. Keep the cutlets hot. Make some rich brown gravy by dredging some flour into the butter which remains in the pan, and stir rapidly until brown; pour in half a pint of hot broth or soup, half a small glassful of port wine, a table- spoonful of Harvey sauce and tarragon vinegar mixed, a tea-spoonful of soy, and a tew mushrooms (if in season), if not, mushroom powder can be used. Boil the gravy up, and pour into the dish in which the cutlets have been placed. Time, ten minutes to fry cutlets. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. ; Mutton Cutlets, Reform Club.—Trim four or five well-chosen thick cutlets, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, brush them with egg, and dip them inte a mixture of pounded or finely-minced- ham and bread-crumbs, in equal quantities. Cover them well with these, and fry in hot oil in a sauté-pan for eight’ or ten minutes: Take care not to overdress them, and turn frequently while cooking to keep their gravy from flowing. Serve round mashed potatoes with the thick end of the cutlet down- wards, and pour over them reform sauce, made in the following manner:—Put together: two onions, two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, two ounees of pounded lean ham, half a clove of garlic, half a blade of mace, two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, one of chilli vinegar, and a pint of brown sauce. Boil up, skim well while simmering for ten minutes, and again boil to reduce to the thickness of cream, when add a table-spoonful of red-currant jelly and one of finely-chopped mushrooms; stir until the jelly is quite dissolved and the flavour of mushrooms is acquired, then strain through a fine hair-sieve. This is Soyer’s celebrated sauce piguant. When wanted for use make the sauce hot, and add, without boiling any more, the white of hard-boiled eggs cut into strips, four mushrooms without the brown fur and pre- viously blanched, a .gherkin or two, a pinch of cayenne, and half an ounce of cooked ham, with salt to taste. Cut all into strips of half an inch, like the eggs. Mutton Cutlets, Sauce for (see Papil- l6te Sauce for Veal or Mutton Cutlets). : Mutton Cutlets with Tomato Purée. —Trim cutlets from well-hung mutton, beat them into shape after removing the chine-bone, with egg, and cover ‘with bread-crumbs. dip them into dissolved butter, brush’ oe in boiling fat, turning them frequently during the frying. Put them on blotting-paper before the fire to drain. Have ready a purée of fresh tomatoes, made as follows :—Pick a pound of ripe tomatoes, break them open, and put them without their seeds into a stewpan with an onion or a couple of shallots, sweet herbs and spice if liked, salt, and pepper; stir over a slow fire until the tomatoes can be pulped through @ hair-sieve; return the pulp to the stewpan to simmer, add an ounce of butter well-worked together with a little flour, and stir in two ounces of meat-glaze. Arrange the cutlets in a circle’ a little overlapping each other, and fill the centre with the purée. Serve hot. Time, ten minutes to dress cutlets. Pro- bable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient, nine or ten cutlets for a dish. Mutton Dormers.—Boil a quarter of a pound of rice as it for curry; chop a good half-pound of underdressed mutton, and three ounces of good fresh beef suet; mix these with the rice, and chop altogether. Shred finely half a shallot, add it with a good seasoning of pepper and salt, and make into sausages. Roll these separately into a dish of ‘beaten egg, cover with fine bread-crumbs, and fry in hot lard or dripping until of a nice brown colour. Send the dormers totable with gravy round them, and gravy also in a boat. Time, about twelve minutes to fry. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of meat. ‘ a ine ; Mutton Escalopes, or Collops, with fine Herbs. — Chop some mush- rooms, parsley, and a shallot, and get small thin slices (about two inches square) from the chump end of a loin of mutton. Fry these brown, on both sides in a stew- pan with an ounce of dissolved. butter; the fire should be brisk, and the. ¢ollops turned several times in the butter. When done, take them out, and keep them warm before the fire. Put in the mushrooms, parsley, and shaljot, half an ounce more of butter, and stew for five minutes; then add a table-spoonful of flour, a spoonful of ketchup, a quarter of a pint of stock, and the juice of half a lemon. Stir till thick. Put in the collops; make them hot, but-do not boil;. place high in the centre of the dish ;..pour-the sauce over, and.serve with toasted sippets or. potato-balls, Time, fifteen minutes altogether. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Mutton, Fillet of, Braised.—Cut the fillet from a well-hung leg of mutton by takin; off a few inches from the loin end, and @ goo knuckle, which will do for boiling, from the other end. Take out the bone, and. fill the hollow with forcemeat, ‘if liked, or put the fillet, well sprinkled with pepper and salt, into a, braising-pan as it is, but first lay over the bottom slices of bacon, and on these a couple of carrots and two large enions,' each stuck with four cloves, a small ‘bunch of parsley and thyme, a few peppercorns, and half a pint of gravy or stock. Put more ‘bacon on the top, cover the lid, and braise for three or four hours. Strain the gravy, and flavour it to taste ; MUT ( 448 ) MUT reduce it by rapid boiling. Have ready ‘some French beans boiled and “drained; ‘put’ the beans into a stewpan ‘with the gravy, ‘and when hot serve them and the meat, which should be glazed, on thesame dish. The chump end of a loin may be roasted before the fire, enveloped in well-buttered paper, then glazed, and served with beans in precisely the same way. The meat shouldbe roasted slowly without getting any brown colour. - Time, about two hours to roast the chump. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. ngs Mutton Gigot (& la Gascon).—Choose a tender well-hung bit’ of mutton. Blanch two or three cloves of garlic in several waters slightly salted, and remove the heads, tails, and bones of six anchovies. Lard the meat with the garlic and anchovies; roast the usual time, and serve with garlic sauce made as follows :—Divide a dozen cloves of garlic, and take off their skins. Put them into slightly- salted boiling water, and, to make mild garlic sauce, change the waterevery “five or ‘six minutes until the garlic has lost its peculiar flavour and smell. Serve it like onion sauce, or drain and serve it in the dish with the meat. Time, twenty to twenty-five minutes to boil. Sufficient for one pint of sauce. Mutton Hachis (4 la Portugaise).—Cut underdone slices from a cold roast leg, and again diyide them into pieces about the size of aflorin. Brown slightly in butter a little lean ham, a sliced carrot, and three shallots shred finely, a bit of garlic, some sprigs of parsley, and a sprig of thyme, two cloves, and a blade of powdered mace. Moisten with two glassfuls of madeira and a cup of good gravy or stock, and thicken the sauce with roux (a ‘French prepa- ration of butter and flour, similar to the English thickening of kneaded butter with flour) ; then boil, skim, and strain. Return the sauce to the stewpan put inthe meat and make it hot, but it should not boil. Walnut or mushroom ketchup, or the liquor from onion pickle, are all allow- able with hashed mutton. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of meat and wine. Mutton Haggis. — Take the. half.of a sheep’s liver with its heart and tongue, and about one pound of! fat.,bacon.. Mince all well together, and grate in two ounces of bread- emumbs: and: the rind of a lemon. Add, two anchovies chopped, and mix the whole of the ingredients with a wine-glassful of sherry, two | beaten. eggs, and season to taste with pepper and salt. Press the haggis tightly into a mould well buttered, and boil fortwo hours. Probable cost, 2s. 4d., exclusive of wine. Mutton Ham.—Choose a short, thick, fresh leg of mutton, weighing twelve or four- teen pounds, and cut it into the form of a ham. Pound in a mortar half a pound of bay salt, one ounce of saltpetre, and half a pound of coarse brown sugar. Make the mixture hot ina stew- pan, then rub it thoroughly into the meat. Turn the ham every morning for four days, and rub the pickle well into it... On the fifth day add two ounces more of common salt. Rub and turn it in the brine for twelve days more, then drain, and wipe dry; rub it with dry salt, and hang it’up in wood-smoke.: No sort of meat is’ more improved by smoking with aromatic woods than mutton. When once dried it will keep for six months. Mutton hams may be roasted or boiled; ‘but in either case they: should be soaked, unless quite freshly done, when ‘they will only require washing. As a breakfast-dish, with eggs, mutton ham is ‘commonly used in the North of England and in Scotland: it is cut in slices as required, oa uate ‘lightly. Time to. smoke,..one week, ne Mutton Ham, Smoked (see Ham, Mut- ton, Smoked). Mutton, Haricot (see Haricot Mutton).: Mutton Hash (see Hash, Cold, &.). Mutton, Haunch of, Roast.—Unless this joint has been well hung it will be teugh and insipid. A haunch of good Southdown mutton in fine, clear, frosty. weather may be kept a month, but in damp weather it will require much attention on the part of the cook to keep it from getting tainted in half the time. The great point is to keep it dry, by dusting: it first with flour, which should be rubbed off several times with a dry cloth, and again re- newed., When to be cooked, skin the loin, wash, and wipe dry; then cover with white paper, or make.a common paste of flour and water, and envelop the joint. Put it on the spit, or hang before a good, even, vigorous fire fer the first half hour,. basting it constantly with good meat-dripping. When within half an hour of being done, take off the paper, and brown slightly. Dredge the haunch with flour, and baste copiously with butter, but first pour the dripping. from the pan; sprinkle a little salt, and send itd table: finely frothed. Make a gravy in the pan with what has dripped from the meat and a little boiling broth drawn from the trimmings; salt and-pepper. Serve currant jelly or currant-jelly sauce. Time, from ten to fifteen minutes per pound; well done, eighteen minutes. Probable'cost, 1s. per pound. Suffi- cient for ten or more persons. : Mutton Hotch Potch.—Cut up three or four well-washed lettuces, and slice half a dozen young onions, browning them slightly in two ounces of butter; add to the onions a pound of ‘underdone mutton minced,'half a cupful of mutton broth from the boiling of the bones, and the cut-up lettuces. Stew all these ingredients to- gether fortwenty-five minutes. Stir this hotch- potch to keep it from burning, and have ready boiled a pint of peas; mix the peas with the ] mutton, and stir fora minute or two to make all hot.’ Underdone beef. may be used if more convenient, and a few mushrooms, tobe easily had in the country, may be chopped and fried with the onion. Probable cost, 8d., exclu- sive of meat. _ Mutton, Kebobbed.—This favourite Oriental dish can be prepared with our English mutton in a manner far superior to any Kebob at Turkish or Egyptian tables. ‘Take a loin of mutton, joint it well at every bone, cut off all superfluous fat, particularly of the kidney, and remove the skin; prepare a'well-proportioned MUT ( 444 ) MUT and large seasoning of the following in- gredients:—Some bread-crumbs, sweet herbs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; brush the mutton chops over with yolk of egg, and sprinkle the above mixture thickly over them ; then tie the chops together in their original order, run a slender spit through them, and roast before a quick fire, basting them well with butter and - e drippings from the meat, and throwing more of the seasoning on them from time to time. Serve with the gravy from the meat, and have ready besides a boat of gravy, to which has been added two table-spoonfuls of ketchup and a thickening of flour’; let this gravy boil; skim and mix it with the gravy in the dish. Remember that all dishes of mutton should be served as hot as possible. Time, a quarter of an hour to a pound. Probable cost, 103d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Mutton, Kebobbed (another way).—See Kebobbed Mutton or Veal. Mutton Kidneys (a la Maitre d’ Hotel). —Broil three or four sheep’s kidneys (see Mutton Kidneys, Broiled), lay them with the rounded side downwards, and put about one ounce of maitre d’hétel butter, prepared as follows, upon each one :—Put four ounces of fresh butter into an enamelled saucepan, add a little salt and cayenne, a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon-juice; work these ingredients well together with the point of « knife, in a cool place. When thoroughly mixed divide the butter into equal parts, put a piece upon each kidney, and serve. Time, about six minutes to broil the kidneys. Probable cost, 4d. each. (See also Butter, 4 la Maitre d’Hétel). Mutton Kidneys, Bread-crumbed. —Take three or four mutton kidneys, cut them open from the rounded part without separating them ; take off the thin skin, and pass a small skewer through the points and over the back to keep them flat. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a frying-pan, dip each kidney in this, and -afterwards strew some finely-grated bread- crumbs over them. Broil them over a clear fire for six minutes, three minutes each side, and dish them neatly on a hot dish. Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Mutton Kidneys, Broiled.—Skin the Kidneys, and epen them lengthwise with a knife until the fat or root is reached, then keep them open with a skewer ; season with pepper, and broil first on the cut side (this will best preserve the gravy from wasting into the fire when the other side is turned toit). Have ready a round of buttered toast, draw out the skewers and lay the kidneys on it, with a piece of butter, cayenne, and salt on each. Serve hot,-or spread the following mixture, as a higher relish, over the toast :—Knead together an ounce of butter, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and cayenne to taste; moisten with a tea- spoonful of Harvey sauce. Serve hot. Time, six to eight minutes to broil. Probable cost, 4d. each. Allow one for each person. Mutton Kidneys, Broiled (another way).—Take three or four sheep’s kidneys, cut them open lengthwise from the round part without dividing them; put a small skewer through the ends and over the back so as to keep them flat. Sprinkle salt and pepper over them, and slightly oil them; then broil them over a clear fire for six minutes, three minutes each side; put them on a hot dish with the rounded side downwards. Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Mutton Kidneys and Rumps (se Mutton Rumps and Kidneys). Mutton Kidneys, Fried.— Remove the outer skin from half a dozen sheep's kidneys, cut them in halves, and season them rather highly with salt and cayenne. Fry them in hot butter over a brisk fire; when nicely browned upon both sides, serve them immediately on a hot dish. A dozen pieces of the crumb of bread of the same size and shape may be fried in butter for two or three minutes, and each half kidney may be served upon one of these. When this is done, a cupful of good brown gravy should be put into the dish with the kidneys. Time, eight minutes to fry the kidneys. Pro- bable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Mutton Kidneys, Fried (another way). —Proceed as before directed for broiling, but put the kidneys into a frying-pan with an ounce of butter, and a little pepper sprinkled over them. ‘When done on one side, turn for an equal time on the other. Remove toa hot dish, add pepper, cayenne, salt, and a little sauce (Harvey's or any other), and pour the gravy from the pan over them. Serve hot on toast or without. Time, seven or eight minutes. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient, allow one to each person. Mutton Kidneys, Stewed (a la Fran- Gaise).—Remove the skins from half a dozen fine mutton kidneys, and cut them lengthwise into slices a quarter of an inch in thickness. Season each piece rather highly with salt and cayenne, and dip it into some finely-powdered sweet herbs, namely, parsley and thyme, two- thirds of the former and one of the latter; three or four finely-minced shallots may be added, if liked. Melt a good-sized piece of butter in the frying-pan, and put in the kidneys: Let them brown on both sides. When nearly cooked, dredge a little flour quickly over them, add a quarter of a pint of boiling stock or water, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and the strained juice of half a lemon. When the gravy is just upon the point of boiling, lift out the kidneys, put them on a hot dish, add two table- spoonfuls of either port or claret to the sauce, let it boil for one minute, then pour it over the meat. Garnish with fried sippets. Time, six minutes to fry the kidneys. Probable cost of kidneys, 8d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Mutton Kidneys Stewed with ‘Wine.—Slice two veal or four sheep’s kidneys, and fry them in a little butter until nicely browned on both sides. Drain them from the butter, put them into a clean saucepan, and pour over them a quarter of a pint of cham- pagne, sherry, or any light wine. Add a little salt and cayenne, a table-spoonful of ketchup, and a table-spoonful of good stock, and simmer MUT ( 445 ) MUT very gently until tender. Serve as hot as pos- sible. The relative proportions of wine and gravy may be reversed in this recipe, if pre- ferred. The kidneys are very good indeed if stewed in gravy flavoured with wine. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 1s. Sufficient for two or three persons. Mutton, Leg of, Boiled.—For boiling, this joint should not hang so long as for roast- ing. Two or three days will be enough if the colour is considered of importance. This and careful skimming will prevent the necessity for a floured cloth, which some inexperienced cooks resortto. Cut off the shank-bone, and if neces- sary wipe the joint with a damp cloth. Put itin- to a large oval stewpan with as much boiling water as will cover it. When restored to its boiling state, skim the surface clean, and draw the stewpan to the side of the fire to allow the contents to simmer until done. Allow for a leg of mutton of nine or ten pounds’ weight, two and a half hours from the time it boils. Boil very young turnips for a garnish; these will take twenty minutey, but allow an hour for older ones, which are to be mashed. Place the turnips, which should be of equal size, round the dish, and send the mashed ones to table separately. Melted butter, with capers added, should accompany the dish. The liquor from the boiling may be converted into good soup at a trifling expense. Time, about twenty minutes to each pound. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for nine or ten persons. Mutton, Leg of, Boned and Stuffed. —Having removed the bone from a leg of mut- ton (a small one of five or six pounds), fill the space from which it was taken with a force- meat composed of the following ingredients worked together into a firm smooth paste :— Shred finely four ounces of suet and two of ham ; mix these with six ounces of bread-crumbs, and flavour with a tea-spoonful of minced thyme, marjoram, and basil, the same of parsley, and a couple of shallots; add a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Moisten with a couple of eggs, well beaten first. Keep the forcenteat from falling out into the dripping-pan during the process of cooking by sewing up the opening, and roast be- fore a brisk fire; give the mutton twenty minutes tothe pound. Or if amore savoury dish be pre- ferred, pound the solid parts of a couple of good red herrings to a paste. Season highly with pepper, and by detaching the skin from the thickest part of the joint, force the paste under and secure well. Those persons who have eaten a leg of mutton thus prepared pronounce it excel- lent. The mutton thus stuffed need not be boned. Trim off the fat from the mutton before putting it to the fire. Baste with good dripping. For sauce, add to the gravy of the meat a small glass- ful of sherry, an anchovy pounded, and pepper and salt to taste; boul for a few minutes; thicken with butter rolled in flour, and serve in a tureen with half the juice of « lemon squeezed into it., Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Mutton, Leg of, Braised. — This joint might he introduced to our readers ‘adapted to this mode of cooking. under a variety of names; such as Leg of Mutton 4 la Napolitaine, 4 la Provengale, @ la Bretonne, 4 la Soubise, and a separate recipe given for each, but as it is generally called after some sauce or garnish, we give a recipe for the praising alone :—Procure a small leg of mutton, cut off the knuckle end, and trim away un- necessary fat. Lard it with narrow strips of bacon which have been well seasoned with pepper. Line a braising-pan with slices of bacon, and lay in the mutton, with more slices on the top. Add four carrots, two turnips, two. middle-sized onions, each stuck with two cloves, a stick of celery, two blades of mace, and a few peppercorns, with enough weak stock to cover. Stew gently for three hours, then reduce the stock by rapid boiling, and brown the meat in the oven, using a little of the stock with what flows from the meat to baste, and when glazed of a light colour serve with the sauce poured over it. A leg of mutton braised as above may be garnished with glazed carrots and onions, or & la Napolitaine, with boiled macaroni in the dish, and Neapolitan sauce over and around the macaroni, or 4 la Provengale, with the sauce of the same name, and a garnish of mushrooms glazed, &c. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Suf- ficient for six or seven persons. Mutton, Leg of, Braised (another way). — Small lean mutton is particularly It may be larded and braised, or done without the larding. Put it into a braising-pan with slices of bacon over and under, so that the bottom of the pan shall be well lined. Between the mutton and bacon strew cut’ carrots, onions, sweet herbs, parsley, and a bay-leaf, also a bit of garlic, if liked, and pepper and salt. Moisten with half a pint or more of good meat gravy or broth, and allow a leg of six or seven pounds to stew nearly four hours. If stewed very gently the liquor will not have lost much in quantity. When the meatisdone enough, strain, reduce the gravy by quick boiling, and serve in atureen. Glaze the mutton, and send it.to table garnished with onions, which should also be glazed, and white haricot beans boiled in good veal broth under the joint. A dozen peppercorns and four cloves, with a stick of celery, may be added to the braising-pan if a higher flavour is liked. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Mutton, Leg of, Oysters with (see Oysters with Leg of Mutton). Mutton, Leg of, To Marinade.—Get the skin taken off the leg, and with three or four large juicy onions, which should be halved, rub until the mutton is well impregnated with their juice. Afterwards lay it into a marinade of the following ingredients :—Infuse, in equal ‘quantities of vinegar and water (a quart in all), four cloves of garlic, a dozen or more of bruised peppercorns, and four cloves, a bunch of herbs, and one of parsley, with a dessert-spoonful of salt. The dish should be from five to six inches in depth, that the marinade may surround the meat well. Keep it in this twenty-four hours, then again rub it with four more fresh onions, and return it, this time on the other side, to MUT the marinade for the same space of time.. Hang to drain all the next day, then wipe dry,.and roast the leg ina buttered: paper, and serve with currant jelly.. Time, three hours to roast. :: Mutton, Leg of, To Roast.—Get a leg of about eight, pounds, and which has hung at least a, week, weather allowing. During hot summer weather this joint, gets quickly tainted. Rub it lightly with salt, and put it at once before a brisk sharp fire. Place it close to the fire for the first five minutes, then draw it farther back, and let it roast, more slowly until done, Baste, continually with a little good dripping until. that from the joint begins to flow. When within twenty minutes of being done, dredge it with flour, and baste with butter or dripping ; and when the froth rises serve on a hot. dish.. Make a gravy, throw off the fat, when any gravy, if the dripping-pan has been, floured, will adhere to it. Add a little extract, of meat -to this, and a little boiling water, pepper, and salt. Pour the gravy round the meat, not over it. Time, fifteen minutes per pound, and fifteen minutes over. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. ‘Mutton, Leg of, with Forcemeat.— This savoury dish is very common in Australia. A leg of mutton is carefully boned so as not to injure the skin, the fat is pared off, and about a pound of the mutton, with an equal quantity of acon, minced together. A seasoning of garlic,. onions, and pickles is then given to it, and the mince is ready;, or, it is sometimes prepared simply seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little chopped, parsley, if to be eaten by ladies’ or children. The hollow made by cutting out the bone, &c., is, filled with the mince, and. the skin secured over the opening to the underside. Meanwhile, a, gravy is made by boiling the bone and trimmings with as much veal broth or water as will be necessary to stew the leg; vegetables are added, an onion and a. carrot sliced, a, small bunch of parsley, with a season- ing of pepper and salt. Lay slices of bacon over the, top of the leg, and, stew gently, with the: lid of the. pan closed, for three hours and a halt or more. When done, strain the gravy, boil it rapidly, and reduce it, to a, glaze, with which. glaze the meat, or thicken the gravy simply with browned’. flour and serve it with the meat, French ‘beans, boiled. in, the usual--manner, drained, and then warmed up in some of the gravy; may belaid under and around the leg of mutton. Probable cost, 1s. per. pound., Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Mutton, Leg of, with Garlic,—The gs pungent taste of. garlic is very little iked by the English, although we cannot, but acknowledge. that. it adds to the variety.’ of dishes that may at. times prove’ acceptable. The following treatment will. considerably soften the garlie’s acriduess, and render it less objectionable,- while at the, same time. re- taining its characteristic favour. Stuff under the skin of a leg of mutton near the: shank three) or four cloves of: garlic that may-have been boiled or not, according to taste, the water . haying been changed repeatedly to mellow; their flavour. Roast the leg in the usual way. ( 446 ) MUT Divide the cloves from the bulbs of as many garlics as,will be sufficient for the sauce, peel, and put them into water, boil for a few minutes, when throw the water off and replace it by more boil- ing water. Do this after several successive:inter- | vals.of five minutes, always slightly salting the water. When the garlic has become sufficiently tender to pulp, drain off the water by pressing the bulbs, and add good gravy made from the roasting of the meat. When, hot, serve the meat on the garlic. Time, a quarter of an hour to a pound; to boil garlic, half an hour. Pro- bable cost of mutton, 1s. per pound. Mutton, Leg of, with. Potatoes.— This homely mode of cooking a leg of mutton is not to bé set aside because of its simplicity. If baked carefully, and cooked to the right point as _it ought to be, a feat not always accomplished when baked at. the common oven, it will be: found excellent, particularly the potatoes, as they will have absorbed all the dripping of the joint, and, where economy in the use of meat as a family dinner is concerned, the potatoes will satisfy the appetite, especially of children, with- outencroaching largely on the joint. Everybody will allow that the odour of the working man’s Sunday dinner..is most tempting to the appe- tite; ‘but, barring ‘the question of fire, we do not think .it the most economical of dishes. Time; ‘a quarter of an hour to the pound. Pro- bable cost, 1s. per pound. \ Sufficient, a leg of mutton of moderate size for eight or more persons. tiny ge de) TE sg Mutton, Loin of, Cooked like Veni- son,—aA loin of mutton may be made to ‘tat like venison by boiling down a woodcock . or snipe: which has hung so long‘ to ‘be thought too high: for . roasting; and ‘using the gravy to moisten the mutton stew.’ The mutton: should have been well kept. Take ‘off: the skin and some’ of the fat, bone,and put it into a stewpan with the gravy, and the same quantity of port: wine, .|.an onion, a few peppercorns, half’ a. tea-spoon~ ful. of minced.‘herbs, and a sprig of parsley. Stew-very gently, and skim well; this.must.be done often and as long as any greasy particles remain on the surface. Serve very hot with currant jelly. Time, about three hours. Pro- bable cost, 10d. per pound. = . Mutton, Loin of, Roasted.—Follow the directions given for roast leg in every particular (see Mutton, Leg of, To Roast), but trim off all unnecessary fat, which may be. used: for:a common suet crust. If the fat. be not turned to account there is no more expensive jeint than a loin of mutton. Cover the fat with paper until within a quarter, of an hour of its being done, then remove, baste, and flour slightly, to. get it frothed. Time, a quarter of am hour to the pound. Probablé cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient, six F : pounds for five.or more persons. _ Mutton, Loin of, Rolled.—tLet the joint hang, then ask the butcher to bone it and re- move unnecessary fat; lay it out flat, and season highly with allspice, cloves, mace, and pepper, reduced to powder. Next day’cover the side on which the seasoning has been laid with a forcemeat as. for. veal, and roll the loin into a MUT ( 447 ) MUT tight. compact shape, which, must be secured qwith a string. Roast it, until half done, or bake it, as most convenient, but,only brown it slightly, and remove the fat trom the.gravy when cold. Have ready a gravy made from boiling the bones, adding to it that which dripped; put the meat and gravy into a stewpan, and stew until tender. A few mushrooms or half a.glassful of mushroom ketchup may be added while stew- ing: when done, put the meat unrolled on. a dish ; add a table-spoonful of baked flour, and pour the gravy over,, salted to taste, and boiled. A loin of mutton boned, rolled, then roasted in the usual way is an excellent joint. Time to bake, an hour and a half; to stew and bake, three hours. ' Probable:cost,, 10d. per.pound. Mutton, Loin of, Stewed with Pickles.—Having roasted a loin of mutton until nearly done, cut off from three to four pounds of the. chump end, and pare the fat to within an eighth of an inch. Put three large mushrooms into a stewpan with half a pint of mutton gravy, and'stew them for a few minutes; then put in the meat, and add a tea-spoonful of soy, two.of chutney, a table-spoonful' of shallot vinegar, and a- quarter of a pint or ‘more of mixed pickles; add of salt and cayerine-about halfa grain. While stewing, keep the mutton well moistened with the gravy; remiove the fat before serving, and send to table very. hot. Time, an hour-and half to stew underdone mutton. Sufficient for four persons. ., Mutton, Minced.—Put a lump of butter into a stewpan; when it, has melted dredge in flour enough to absorb the. butter, and, keep it. well, stirred over a slow fire until of: a light brown colour; add half a pond of mutton from a roast leg, minced finely, and have ready a cup.of good broth made from the bone, with the adgitien of a bit of well-flavoured ham, and pepper, salt,.and nutmeg; mix well, and simmer gently for half. an hour, ‘but do not boil... Re- move from the fixe, and stir in a, bit of anchovy. butter fhe size of a walnut. Serve. with a garnish of toasted sippets or a border of endive Boiled: ‘as follows!—Pick- the -yellowish=white leaves from the stalk; and boil them in plenty of saltéd water; then throw them into cold; drain, press, and chop. ‘Make hot'in a clean stewpan with a little: pepper, salt,‘and nutmeg, add the yolk of an egg or two, and serve round the mutton. Mutton, Minced (another way).—Take the remains of: a roast leg or loi without fat; mince. it very. finely, put dt iinto- a. stewpan witha breakfast-cupfulof gravy:drawn from the roast to a pound and a ‘half of meat, and season with pepper, ‘salt; and a little’ grated nutmeg ; add: a tablerspoonful of browned ‘flour, and let’ the mince-heat.gradually, but do not let it boil. In twenty minutes serve very hot with poached eggs round the. dish; or the mince may be made more savoury by the addition of 'a dessert- spoonful of.-walnut ketchup, and the same of walnut ‘pickle, Oude.sauce, &c., but less gravy will, be required, Minced mutton may be served: with a border of macaroni, first boiled tender-in: salted: water,.and then-stewed,after draining-in new milk., Four ounces of macaronj will require , good‘ white sauce, ‘season with one quart of water,-and when drained from it half a pint of milk will be sufficient ; add to the milk an ounce of butter, the half of a small tea~ spoonful of made mustard, to which a quarter of a grain of cayenne has been added, and a little salt. “Time, half an hour to boil macaroni / in water; quarter ofan hour in milk. Sufficient for three or four persons. ‘ Mutton, Minced and Baked.—Take slices ‘of mutton (the meat from a ‘cold, roast leg is best) without much fat, mince them, and add a tea-spoonful of savoury herbs, a blade of pounded mace, two shred shallots or an onion chopped very fine, and some of the meat-gravy to. moisten, with a very little flour to’ thicken the gravy; and season with pepper and salt. Fill a pie-dish with alternate layers of ‘mashed potatoes and the minced mutton; put. the potatoes at the bottom of ‘the dish, and finish the top in the same way.- ‘Time, half an hour to: bake. ‘Sufficient, ai pound and a half of mutton for four or five persons. .(. es Mutton, Neck of, Boiled. — Shorten the ribs and saw off the chine-bone of. a neck of mutton, or,from three to four pounds of the best'end ; to took well it should not exceed five inchés in length. Pare off the fat that ‘is in excess of what may be eaten, and boil slowly in plenty of water slightly ‘salted ; skim ‘care- fully, and remove the fat from the surface. The meat may. be seryed plain, with caper. or parsley sauce, and a garnish of boiled mashed turnips and, carrots ;cut,into thin. strips, placed :alter- nately round the dish. . Four middle-sized turnips, and; three carrots may, ,be; boiled. with the mutton., Time, a full quarter of an hour to the pound. .Probable cost,; .10d..to Is. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Mutton, Neck of, Browned.—Boil as in preceding recipe, but not quite solong; finish by cooking the mutton before the fire, first cover- ing it with a mixture of fine bread-crumbs, pars- ley, ‘and'sweet herbs, pepper, salt, and a little mushroom powder, cemented together with the beaten ‘yolk ‘of one or more ‘eggs. When nicely browned, serve with half a ‘pint of gravy thigkened.. with a dessert-spoonful of browned flour, and.add a table-spoonful of Iemon-juice. Time, a: quarter ofan; hour.to the pound, Probable cost, 10d. per. pound. i, Sufficient, four pounds for six or seven persons! . ’- / Mutton, Neck. df, Roasted._We have'‘already recommended: that the Tib-bones of this joint should be shortened, to give a nice appearance to cutlets, and we also, for econoniy’s sake, dnd to give a nice squareness to'the piece ‘of meat, advise the purchaser to get it done, if (Possible, by the butcher. ‘The’ meat of the ‘neck from a well-fed sheep we think stiperior \tol:that’of the loin. ‘Take off any excess of fat, and’ roast’ precisely according’ to directions given for ‘roast loin (see “Mutton, Loin ‘of, Roasted), ‘always remembéring that the: fire for cooking''mutton showld be clear and Prisk, but not fierce. A little salt rubbed over the joint when it is ready to be put to the’ fire, a liberal ‘basting; and some: flour dredged ‘over, to froth it, nicely, .ane all that’ is wanted ito, gatiafy, a good appetite, Serve with plain MUT ( 448 ) MUT gravy, baked tomatoes, or currant jelly. Time, a quarter of an hour to the pound. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient, four pounds for four or five persons. Mutton, Oxford John (see Oxford John), Mutton Patties.—Line some tartlet- moulds witb a good paste. Take an equal weight of lean mutton from the fillet and fat baeon, which pound together. Season to taste with salt, a very small quantity of spice, and cayenne pepper. Place a round ball of the meat into each patty-pan, cover with paste, and make a small hole in the centre. Bake in a quick oven, and pour into each patty through a funnel a little well-seasoned gravy, or glaze before the patties get cold. Time, about twenty minutes.. Probable cost of paste, 1s. 4d. per pound. Mutton Patties (another way).—These patties are oftea made with cooked meat, which is minced, then hashed in good gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little ketchup. The mince should not boil, but be made hot, and thickened. Patty-pans, lined with half puff-paste and filled with the meat, will require a very short time to bake. Cover with the paste, and put them into a quick oven. Time, about fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost of paste, 1s. per pound. Mutton Pie.—A very good family pie is made with the remains of a cold leg, loin, or any other joint of mutton from which nice neat slices of rather lean meat can be cut. These should be put with a good seasoning, in alter- nate layers with thinly-sliced potatoes, into a pie-dish, commencing at the bottom with some of the meat, and finishing at the top with pota- toes. Parsley, savoury herbs, onion, or shallot, with a little mace, white pepper, and salt may be used at discretion. A cupful of good gravy from the meat should be poured into the pie before the crust is put on. Suet is. generally used for the crust. Time, an hour to bake. Probable cost, exclusive of meat, 6d. to 8d. Mutton Pie, Good.—Make a seasoning of chopped parsley (about two table-spoonfuls), of powdered savoury herbs and a minced shallot, in equal proportions, a dessert-spoonful, or an onion shred small, the shallot being omitted, with pepper and salt totaste. Cutfrom two to three pounds of neat chops from the loin or neck of mutton, weighed after the bone and much of the fat have been removed; put them, well eovered with the above seasoning, into a pie- dish. Cut three kidneys into halves, and each half into two parts, distribute them equally amongst the meat, pour in half a pint of veal broth or water, and bake with a puff or good suet crust; the latter will be found very suit- able if eaten hot. A table-spoonful of ketchup and two of port wine may be added to the gravy, but there should in that case be less water. Time, about an hour and three-quarters to bake. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Mutton, Potted.—Cutintothinslices, and then pound together in a mortar, eight ounces of well-dressed roast mutton, freed from fat and sinew, and half that quantity of boiled tongue; then mix with the pounded meat three ounces of good fresh butter, and add, while pounding, a salt-spoonful each of made mustard and white pepper, with a quarter of a grain of cayenne, and salt, if required. Store in a cool place, and in an earthenware jar, or in several small ones, over which should be run some clarified butter. Mutton, Quality of.—‘‘The quality of mutton,” says a well-known authority, ‘‘varies much in the different breeds. . In the large long-haired sheep it is coarse- grained, but disposed to be fat. In the smaller and short-woolled breed the flesh is closest grained and highest flavoured, but the quality of the flesh is probably most affected by that of the food upon which the flocks are fed. Those which range over the mountainous districts of Wales and Scotland, or the chalk downs of England, and feed upon the wild herbage, possess a flavour very superior to those kept in rich pastures and on marsh land. The Welsh mutton is particularly small and lean, but of the finest flavour. Marsh-fed mutton often becomes extremely fat, but the meat has a rank taste. Turnips, hay, chaff, bran, corn, and other vegetables, as likewise oil-cake and grains, are employed for fattening sheep for the market; but such mutton is never so good as that produced when theanimals can range in free- dom. In pointof delicacy and flavour, South- down Wether mutton is considered equal to any that is killed: in summer it is thought preferable to some other finely-flavoured breeds, especially Norfolk mutton. This circumstance is said to arise from the closeness of the grain, or from the specific gravity being greater, rendering it more impermeable to the air than mutton that is coarser and looser-fleshed, the latter being, of course, more subject to putridity. The older the mutton the finer is its flavour. Wedder mutton is always preferred so much before that of the ewe that the flesh of the latter, although more commonly kept to a mature age, always sells at an inferior price.” Mutton, Ragofit, of.—Slice thinly two turnips, two carrots, and two onions; these last brown in a broad-bottomed stewpan ‘with two ounces of butter or dripping, shaking in a little flour, and stirring to prevent it from browning too quickly. Cut small short chops from a cold roast loin or neck, or from the breast small square pieces, free them from fat, and brown them on each, side in the same butter; then pour in as much weak broth or water as may be required, say about half a pint, and add the sliced turnips and carrots, a sprig or two of parsley, and some pepper and salt. Stew very gently until the vegetables are tender. The flavour of this ragofit may be varied by the introduction of celery, cut lettuces, or green peas, and these last, when in season, are generally preferred to turnips and carrots. Arrange the meat in a circle, and put the vegetables in the centre, with the sauce over all. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of meat, 4d. Sufficient, a pound and a half for four persons. Mutton, Ragoftt of, French.—Place three ounces of butter ina stewpan; as it melts, MUT ( 449 ) MUT stir in two table-spoonfuls, of flour; continue to stir until it is nicely browned, then put in about. two pounds of breast or neck of mutton cut into square pieces, and sufficient water to nearly cover the mutton; flavour with a few sprigs of parsley, which must afterwards be removed. Add two lumps of sugar, and pepper and salt to taste. "When it has once boiled, re- amove to the side of the fire, and be careful only to let it simmer for an hour. Fry to a nice brown three good-sized turnips previously cut into dice; put them into the stewpan with the meat, and simmer for a couple of minutes. Arrange the ragofit upon the dish, placing the turnips in the centre, and the pieces of meat round the edge. Pour the sauce over the whole, and serve very hot. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Mutton, Roast, with Garlic ( German recipe).—The acrid flavour of garlic is not much relished by English palates. We confess, with our continental \ neigh- bours, that it is an essential to many made dishes in the form of a- sbwpgon only. By boiling the garlic, and repeatedly changing the water during the process, the flavour may be so mollified that few persons would disagree withus. The following German mode of cooking « leg or shoulder of mutton is with garlic in its raw state :—Separate a garlic bulb into the smallest cloves, and envelop each one in a leaf of green sage. Beat the joint— leg or shoulder ; take off the skin, and force the garlic well into the middle of the mutton by several holes made for the purpose. Secure the openings, rub the joint with pepper and salt, and roast in the usual way. Long strips of shallot are often used instead of garlic; these are put in with the larding-pin all over the mutton. A few tarragon leaves or tarragon vinegar, a tea-spoonful of caraway seeds, a quarter of a pint of beer, and the same quantity of water should be put into the dripping-pan to baste the meat. Time, a quarter of an hour to the pound. Mutton, Roebuck Fashion.—Take a loin of mutton that has been well hung. Remove the fillet, skin, and cut away the fat and bones. Lay the loin in a marinade composed of equal parts of vinegar and water, to a pint of which add a glass of port or claret, a couple of carrots, and two large onions cut into quarters with a clove in each, a dozen peppercorns, two blades of mace, a bunch of herbs and parsley, some bay-leaves, and two tea-spoonfuls of salt. When the mutton has lain in the marinade twenty-four hours, turn it, and let it lie until next day, then drain, and put it into a braising- pan with a little of the pickle, the pan being well lined with bacon; and more bacon being placed over the top. Stew it three hours. Glaze the meat, and serve with gravy, adding walnut ketchup and a glass of claret. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Mutton Rumps and Kidneys.—Trim half a dozen mutton rumps (i.¢. sheep’s tails), skin, split, and lard the same number of mutton kidneys: season them with cayenne. Put the rumps, with a pint of good mutton gravy, into a stewpan, add two onions, each stuck with two | 29—n.k. cloves, a blade of mace, a handful of button’ mushrooms chopped, or a spoonful of mushroom | powder, with salt. and pepper. Stew them ‘in the gravy, with the stewpan closed, until the rumps are tender. Drain, and wipe them dry. Strain the gravy into another stewpan, add to it a quarter of a pound of rice, previously boiled dry as if for curry, and let it get hot through while the rumps are fried. Dip them first into beaten egg yolks, and then roll them in bread-crumbs, seasoned nicely with salt, pepper, grated lemon-peel, or nutmeg, and a dessert-spoonful of thyme and parsley mixed. When of a light brown, have: the kidneys ready (they should be roasted, and well basted), turn the rice into the centre of a hot dish, and arrange the rumps and kidneys round it; or they may be served with French beans boiled in the usual way, and then warmed up in some of the gravy instead of rice. ‘Time to stew rumps, half an hour; to fry, ten minutes; to roast kidneys, twenty minutes. Probable cost, about 2s. ‘ oe ge 8 Mutton, Saddle of (a la Portugaise).— Prepare a marinade as follows :—Boil together, : in two quarts of port wine mixed with a: pint of vinegar, a couple of onions, each stuck with six cloves, six bay-leaves, two large carrots, half a dozen small turnips, a bunch of parsley, anda clove of garlic or three shallots. Put the mutton into a rather deep dish, with the top and flaps neatly trimmed, and any excess of fat removed with the skin; pour the marinade boiling over it, and keep it basted often until cold; then turn the meat in it once a day, and, in five or six days, drain, wipe dry, and roast for a quarter of an hour over the usual time for mutton, covering it with a buttered paper, and basting constantly until done. Serve with a gravy from the meat to which a little of the marinade has been strained and a good quan- tity of currant jelly been added. Time for ten pounds, two hours and three-quarters. Probable cost, 10d. per pound, Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Mutton, Saddle of, Roasted.—A saddle of mutton, if hung in a cool airy place, will improve with keeping from one to three weeks, according to the weather; but as this part of the sheep is the most tender and delicate, it may, if liked, be roasted in from four to five days. If not fora large family, get the joint well trimmed; the flaps, tail, and chump end may be cut away, which will considerably lessen the weight, and be found’ more advan-' tageous to the purchaser, even at a higher price per pound. In its entire state it is considered an expensive joint, consequently people of moderate means and family, unless so accommodated by the butcher, can seldom’order it. Roast as before directed for roast loin (see Mutton, Loin of, Roasted). The joint should be skinned, and the skin tied over it securely until within half an hour of its being sent to table, when it should be removed, and the surface browned and frothed., It should be of a pale brown colour. Make a gravy,in the dripping-pan: do not pour it over..the meat, but put a little in the dish; and more in a tureen, with red-currant jelly or port-wine sauce, MUT ( 450 ) MUT ‘Rime, ten pounds, two hours and a half, or less if liked underdone. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight’ persons. Mutton, Sauce for (see Queen Mary’s Sauce for Roast Mutton). e Mutton Sausages.—A delicate sausage is made from the remains of an underdone leg of roast mutton, or any other joint from which slices can be ‘got without fat. Chop a pound of lean underdone mutton and six ounces of. beaf suet separately; then mix them with four ouncés, of 'finely-prepared* bread-crumbs, and put them into a basin with a pint.of oysters bearded and chopped, two anchovies,.a seasoning of thyme, marjoram, and powdered mage, and some pepper and salt. Moisten with two beaten eggs, and a little of the anchovy liquor if re- quired. Make into a firm paste, and roll into sausages or make into balls, but the sausage- meat will keep for a few days. Time to fry, seven or eight minutes. : rele Mutton, Scrag (a la Ménéhould).—Soak in warm water and wash the undivided scrag end of. the neck of mutton; drain, sprinkle lightly with pepper, and hang it for a couple of days. Slice three or four young carrots, and divide into quarters three middle-sized onions, line the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, lay in'the scrag, with slices of bacon over the top, and the vegetables which have been sliced, witha couple of bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, marjoram, and basil, a small bunch of parsley, thirty white peppercorns, and as much liquor from the boiling of a knuckle or scrag of “veal as will cover the meat. well. Prepare a cupful of bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt, and when. the meat is tender drain: it from the gravy in which it has stewed; cover with the seasoned crumbs, and. brown in a quick oven, or with a salamander. Time, four hours to stew. Probable. cost, 8d. per pound. : on seal Mutton; Shoulder of (a recipe ‘by a Scotch lady).—Hang a shoulder of mutton until tender, and, when ready for cooking, put it before a bright clear fire for three-quarters of an hour, or, according to the weight of the shoulder, until half done. Remove the joint from the fire, and, as expeditiously as possible, score it on both sides. Put- it again to the tire, first emptying the dripping-pan of the fat, and replacing it with the gravy that may have flowed, while scoring, and enough of meat-gravy. to make half.a pint; add the-same quantity of port wine, and a spoonful each of walnut and mushroom ketchup, with two fine anchovies boned and pulped, a-pinch of cayenne. pepper, and salt. to taste.. Allow the ‘usual time for roasting, but baste copiously with the above sauce. —Rub the dish, when made hot, on which the mutton is to be served with cut garlic or shallot, and pour the sauce from the pan over it. Mutton, Shoulder of, Broiled.—Half roast, or stew, or parboil, a joint of six pounds, then cut it once or twice on both sides to the Pate eee ie oe and outside with cayenne, and fini essing on a pridiron over a brisk fire; take the sie aeerthe fat, add to it some pickled mushrooms, large all), and small, and strew over, and garnish the broil when served. It is needless to remind: the reader that dishes and plates should all be made very hot, especially for mutton.- Time to parboil, one hour ; to grill, twenty minutes:' Average cost, 103d. per pound. Sufficient for’ five or six persons. | : i Mutton, Shoulder of, Roasted,—This joint should be well hung; a fortnight in cold, dry weather will not ‘be found too much if for aroast. Rub one of six or seven pounds lightly. with salt, and put. it before a bright clear fire; baste continually until done, keeping it at eighteen inches distance from the ‘fire to let. the heat penetrate the middle. When,within. twenty minutes of being ready for serving, the joint should be drawn nearer to the fire, dredged slightly with flour, and basted to give it a frothed appearance. Have ready some boiled Spanish onions, glaze them, put the mutton on a hot dish, make a grayy from the drippings, garnish with the glazed onions, and send onion sauce to table im a tureen. Time, a quarter of an hour to:..the pound. Probable cost, 94d. to 10d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Mutton, Shoulder of, Stewed.—Hang- this joint as long as possible in dry cold weather ; for stewing three days will be sufficient. Procure one, not too large or too fat, pare off what is unnecessary of the fat}, and: use it for a comnion crust; take out the ‘bladebone, and fill the space with a forcemeat as for veal, sew up the opening, slice an’ onion, a carrot, a turnip, and a stick of celery, put them with the mutton into a stewpan, pour in good stock enough to cover, and add a clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, a bladé of macé, two cloves, a dessert-spoonful of salt, half the quantity of white pepper, and a large pinch of cayenne. Let the: whole simmer gently, with the lid closed, for four hours, strain, and thicken the gravy with an ounce of butter rolled in flour ; put the meat on a hot dish with a little of the gravy, add to the remainder half the juice ofsa lemon and a glassful of white-wine. Serve with. French beans boiled in the usual way, drained and warmed up in good gravy, or with spinach round the dish; or, having taken out the blade-. bone, sprinkle the under side with pepper, salt, ‘chopped parsley, and shred shallot, but use only enough of the latter to give it a slight flavour. Roll the meat into a nice shape, and stew gently - for three hours in a braising-pan with a pint of good stock, add. salt, a very small pinch of cayenne, a few peppercorns, and a bunch of sweet herbs, and, an hour before serving, a couple of carrots cut into. strips, the same of turnips in halves, and four middle-sized onions; pour in a glass of white wine,.and when ready serve the vegetables round, the meat, and the gravy over it. Probable cost, 9d. to 10d. per pound. Mutton, Shoulder of, Stuffed. — laving boned a shoulder of mutton, and trimmed off the excess of fat, stretch it out on a pasteboard, and sprinkle over it pepper and salt. Make a sausage-meat with equal quantities of lean pork and bacon (a pound in seasoned with pepper, salt, and alittle MUT (461) MUT mace; pound these in a mortar, and stuff the shoulder; then round it to a nice shape, having first secured the forcemeat; use strong thread, and if properly and carefully done there is no fear of the sausage-meat leaving its place. Put the stuffed shoulder in a large stewpan con- taining some melted butter, and brown slightly both sides of it. Pour in a quart of good broth» or water, and when ‘it-has boiled, and been skimmed, add « bunch, of savoury herbs; an onion, a carrot, a handful of button mushrooms, and two:cloves; simmer until done, basting the ° meat often with the gravy during the last half | hour. Serve the meat on a hot dish; strain ’ and take off all-fat from the gravy, keep the meat hot before the fire, return the gravy to a | small stewpan, and boil rapidly until it is re- duced in quantity ; then pour it over the meat, and garnish with glazed onions. Time to brown, seven or eight minutes for each side; to dress altogether, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 93d. to 10d. per pound. Sufficient for seven or’eight persons. ‘ Mutton, Shoulder of, with Oysters, —This joint is seldom cooked at the present time in this fashion, but we give the recipe to show the variety of ways in which ashoulder of mutton may be served. "When boned, it should | be highly seasoned with salt, pepper, and pounded “macée. Place a layer of oysters, bearded, over the inside of the meat, sew up the opening, and roll the joint up neatly, securing it with a broad tape so that it may not get loose during the stewing, simmer gently in beef gravy or broth just enough to cover it, add an onion-stuck with two cloves, | and half a tea-spoonful of whole:.pepper; - serve with oyster sauce poured over the meat. Time, according to size, twenty minutes to the A pound. Probable cost,,9d.. to 10d. per pound. | Sufficient, seven pownds. for six or seven persons. % fs " Pk mh Mutton Steaks; French.—Cut steaks | from the neck; make: them neat by shortening the bones, which put aside with the trimmings for gravy. .Put the-steaks into a stewpan, and bring them to the boil, with a few small onions, savoury herbs, and'water to cover; remove at once to a dish to drain, put: the trimmings and bones into the liquor from which they were taken, and boil for an hour. When'strained, set, the gravy to cool, and when the fat is cleared.| off thicken it with browned butter and flour; flavour with salt,.pepper, and a little vinegar. When the. steaks are ready (they should. be fried in the meanwhile, and dipped ‘into egg, bread-crumbs, and. finely-minced herbs}, pour the gravy on a hot déep dish, and lay the steaks into it. Time to boil ‘steaks, two minutes; to fry, five minutes. Sufficient, two pounds for four persons. © i og : : . Mutton, Stewed.—Take slices of half an inch thick,-and without fat, from any roast. joint, season them well with" pepper, salt, ' a little shred shallot, and mushroom. powder, mixed together, and.sprinkléd over the meat. Put.a pint of broth into a stewpan, lay’ in the meat: with a couple.of young carrots sliced, and a couple of small onions. Let the mutton ‘to stew meat, half an hour. stew until the carrots are tender; keep the lid of i the stewpan clesed. Putthe meat in the centre of a hot dish, thicken the gravy with half an ounce of butter kneaded with a little flour, add any store sauce—Harvey’s or any other preferred —aad serve with dried rice round the dish. Time Sufficient, a pound and a half of meat for four or more persons. ‘Mutton, Stewed and Baked.—A shoulder of mutton is deprived of its greasy quality by .being partially boiled, or rather stewed, and. its. cooking completed in the oven. Procure a middle-sized shoulder, trim off any excess of fat, and bone it; put it into a stewpan with just water ‘enough to-cover it. Simmer gently for two hours or more, according to the size. -Put it before the fire, tie’a good lump of butter in-a.coarse muslin, rub the mutton well over, and then strew thickly with fine raspings, ' chopped parsley, thyme, pepper, and salt,: mixed together. Finish the cooking in. the oven; half an hour in a good oven will be suffi- cient. Serve on a hot dish with boiled spinach round the mutton, and gravy in a tureen. Probable cost, 9d. to 10d. per pound. Suffi- cient for five or six persons, Mutton Stock for Soup.—For a rich soup allow a pound of meat to a pint of water, but do not use mutton only ; a mixture of meats will make the best: soup. Four pounds of mutton, with the same weight of beef, or rather less of veal, necks, feet, and bones of undressed fowls, and of a calf’s head, with a layer of lean ham, or half a pound of Jewish smoked beef, laid over the bottom of an iron soup kettle, and a pint or:a pint and a half of water to each pound of meat, will make very excellent stock, with the addition of vegetables. Boil the meat and,,bpnes.slowly, and skim carefully; add to each gallon, when boiling, one ounce and a half of salt, three onions, each with four cloves, three _ carrots, three turnips, two heads of celery, 2 bunch of parsley and thyme, a blade of mace, and.a dozen white peppercorns ; strain for use. , Time to simmer, six Aours. : Mutton’ Tails._Cut them into halves and boil, or rather stew, until tender, in broth or water, skimming the surface free of all fat, &c.; add salt, an onion or two stuck with cloves, a bunch of parsley, and a few fine herbs. When tender, ‘take them out, drain, and dip them, but they should be first scored, into dis- solved butter; cover with nicely-seasoned bread- crumbs, and ‘when these have dried pour more dissolved butter over, and again cover with the * crumbs, and brown with a salamander; thicken the gravy, add a little lemon-juice, and serve ‘with the gravy poured over them, which should be drainéd. Mutton tongues may be cooked in’ the same mariner, and served on the'same dish, arranged alternately. Time, two to three hours. tostew. 7 , : Mutton. Tea (Invatm Cooxrry).—To a pound and a half of Jean juicy mutton, cut into : small dice and without bone, allow one ‘pint of water; put it into a saucepan, and pour the ‘water cold on it. Infuse this by the side of the . fire for half an hour,,.then boil, add a little salt, and remove the scum. Simmer gently for another half hour, and let it settle; then strain, MUT ( 452) NAP keeping back the sediment. If to be re-warmed set the basin in boiling water. Probable cost of mutton, 1s. per pound. Mutton Tongues.—Boil in good stock broth, having first blanched them, half a dozen sheep’s tongues until the skin may be taken off easily, then split them nearly through without separating them. Put them into a stewpan with a little of the stock, a glassful of white wine, half a pint of small onions previously fried in butter, a little shred shallot, or if liked a small bit of garlic, and some button mushrooms, with a tea-spoonful of mixed spice, and some pepper and salt. When the onions are tender, set the tongues on a dish, roots inwards, and serve with a purée of onions or turnips in the centre, and the small onions as a garnish round them. Time to boil, two to three hours; to warm in sauce, fifteen minutes. Mutton Trotters.--Sheep’s trotters are served on the continent plain boiled, ac- companied with oil and vinegar in a tureen, or they are boiled until tender, the bones care- fully removed, and the feet dipped into a batter before frying; they may also be stewed, and, after boning, the space left by the bones may be filled with a forcemeat as follows :—Pound together a smali quantity of cooked veal, and the same of bacon or fresh suet; mix these with finely- prepared bread-crumbs, add pepper, salt, nut- “meg, and bind with beaten egg. Take some of the broth in which the trotters have been boiled, .8tew them in it thus stuffed for about twenty minutes, adding a seasoning of shred shallot, and any store sauce. Put the trotters on a dish, boil the sauce rapidly for ten minutes, - then pour it over the feet, and serve. Mutton Trotters (another way).—These require long and slow stewing, either in water with vegetables, carrot, onion, celery, a few cloves, and peppercorns, or with white sauce; - they are sometimes boned, and stuffed with force- meat, the trotters being first boiled long enough to slip their bones easily without injury to the skin. Lay them so stuffed into a stewpan witha little of their own liquor from the boiling; when they have been stewed thus for half an hour, take out the trotters and reduce the gravy to a glaze, with which cover them, and serve. Before cooking, cut off the hoof, singe, wash, and blanch, for five minutes, in boiling water. Time to stew, three hours and a half. Mutton, Venison imitated with (sce ‘Gravy, To make Mutton like Venison). Mutton with Mushrooms.—Peel four -or five flap mushrooms, and wash, but drain well; take thin slices from an underdone leg .of mutton, about a pound, season them with cayenne and pepper, a quarter of a grain of the former mixed with a salt-spoonful of the latter, and a tea-spoonful of salt; add a shred -onion, and piece of garlic the size of a pea. Lay half the seasoned mutton into a pie-dish, and on it place the mushrooms, which should be large enough to cover, with a piece of butter, 4 quarter of an ounce in each.- Fill the dish with the mutton, put bits of butter over the top, and pour in a quarter of a pint of gravy trom the roist or the boiling of the bone, to which a little pounded mace has been added. Cover with another dish, and bake slowly. Time, three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufii- cient for three persons. My Own Cakes.—Beat well six fresh eggs, and remove the specks ; have ready baked eight ounces of flour. Put the flour into a bowl with eight ounces of finely-sifted sugar, of sweet almonds, blanched and pounded, and of citron, minced, each two ounces; moisten with the eggs, and flavour with thirty drops of the essence of vanilla, and half a small wine-glass- ful of curacoa, first mixed with eight ounces of dissolved butter, and then with the ingre- dients in the bowl, which must be beaten for several minutes. During the beating pro- cess add, sprinkling thom in from time to time, three or four ounces of clean well-dried currants. Butter small fluted moulds, but do not fill them; leave space for rising. The oven should be quick, and the cakes put in as quickly as possible. When nearly done, ice over the tops, flavouring the icing with a few drops of vanilla; make the icing by beating the white of an egg, with two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, add five drops of vanilla. These cakes may be eaten hot or cold. Time, about twenty minutes to bake; ten minutes to beat the mixture. N Nanterre, Gateau de (see Gateau de Nanterre). Naples, or Finger, Biscuits.—Take eight eggs. Divide the whites from the yolks, and put them into separate bowls. Beat the yolks thoroughly, and mix with these half a pound of finely-sifted loaf sugar, a small pinch of salt, two or three drops of almond, lemon, or any other flavouring, two ounces of best flour, and two ounces and a half of corn-flour. Be thoroughly to a thick smooth batter. Whis the whites to a solid froth, add them a little at a time to the rest, beating briskly all the while. Place them on a baking sheet, in fingers four inches long and three-quarters of an inch wide, sift a little sugar over them, and bake ina moderate oven. They should not be allowed to brown. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per pound. _Naples Sauce for Fish.—Take one- eighth of a ‘pint of freshly boiled shrimps, remove the shells, and put them into an enamelled saucepan, and with them a large anchovy, freed entirely from skin and bone, two shallots finely minced, a dessert-spoonful of bruised capers, and three dessert-spoonfuls of strained lemon-juice: a little piece of garlic not larger than a small pea can also be put in if the flavour is liked. Stir over the fire for six or seven minutes, pour in a quarter of a pint of good stock, and add small pinch of cayenne and half a blade of mace. Simmer gently for a, quarter of an hour, thicken the sauce with a piece of butter, the size of a large egg, rolled thickly in flour, and boil ten minutes longer. NAS ( 453 ) NEA Strain the sauce, adding another dessert-spoon- ful of lemon-juice; make it as hot as possible without letting it boil, then draw it from the fire, and stir in a quarter of a pint of thick cream. Serve at once. Time, three-quarters of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Nasturtium.—tThis elegant plant some- times goes under the name of Indian cress. It thrives satisfactorily in this country, but is a native of Peru. The young leaves and flowers of the nasturtium are frequently employed in salads. Its seeds, when pickled, make a good substitute for capers (see Nastur- tium Seeds), and its fine yellow flowers are used to garnish dishes. There are two species of nasturtium, the small and the large; the latter is the hardier, and is that usually culti- vated. Nasturtium Pickle.— The buds and seeds of the nasturtium are both used for pickle. The former are the more delicate, the latter the more highly flavoured. The buds should be gathered before the petals protrude beyond the calyx, the seeds while they are quite young and as soft as green peas. All that is necessary is to gather them on a dry day, put them at once into a jar, cover them ‘well with cold vinegar, and when the harvest is over cork them down tightly. A little seasoning may either be put into the vinegar or not. It may consist of two ounces of salt and a dozen peppercorns to each quart of vinegar. At the end of a few months this pickle will be found to be very nicely flavoured. Time, to be kept twelve months before being uséd. Probable cost, uncertain, nasturtium buds and seeds being seldom sold. Nasturtium Seed Sauce (for Boiled Mutton, &c.).—Take two table-spoonfuls of nasturtium seeds, preserved as in the last recipe, cut them into small pieces, and put them aside until wanted. Dissolve one ounce of fresh butter in 4 stewpan, dredge three- quarters of an ounce of flour slowly into it, and make it quite smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Add half a pint of boiling gravy, and beat it until quite free from lumps. Season with a dessert-spoonful of nasturtium vinegar, a pinch of cayenne, and a little salt if required. Put in the bruised nastur- tium seeds, boil up once more, and serve. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. ; Nasturtium Seeds (a substitute for Capers).—The seeds of the nasturtium plant are excellent as a substitute for capers to be. served with boiled mutton. Gather them while they are stil young and green, wash them well in cold water, put a little salt with them, and let them soak until next day. Dry them well with a soft cloth, put them into glass bottles, and cover them entirely with cold vinegar. Two ounces of salt, a dozen pep- percorns, a small piece of horse-radish, four or five leaves of tarragon, and two cloves may be put with each quart of vinegar. Cork the bottles securely, and store them ina cool dry place. The nasturtium seeds will not be ready for use until the next summer. Probable cost, uncertain, nasturtium seeds being seldom offered for sale. Nasturtium Vinegar ‘for Flavouring Sauces, &c.).—Gather nasturtium flowers which ‘are fully blown, put them into large glass bottles, and shake them well together. Fill the bottle with cold vinegar, and put a finely- minced shallot and the third of a clove of garlic with each quart. Let the vinegar re- main for two months. At the end of that time strain it through a tamis, and add half an ounce of cayenne and half an ounce of salt. Put the vinegar into small bottles, and cork securely. Probable cost, 8d. per quart. Nautese Salad.—Peel half a dozen small Spanish onions. Take out the core, put a little butter inside each, and bake them in a moderate oven, basting occasionally with butter until they are quite tender. ~Let them get cold, then cut them into slices, and lay them at the bottom of a salad bowl. Scrape half a dozen sardines, preserved in oil or butter, or, if preferred, soak a Yarmouth bloater for three or four minutes in boiling water. Remove the skin, take the flesh from the bones, and lay the fish in convenient-sized pieces upon ‘ the onion. Slice half a dozen hard-boiled eggs, place these on the fish, and strew over the whole two table-spoonfuls of finely - minced parsley and a tea-spoonful of chopped tarragon or chervil. Serve with salad dressing. Time, one hour to bake the onions. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Neapolitan Cake.—Blanch and pound toa smooth paste six ounces of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter almonds, and whilst pounding them keep dropping in a little orange-flower water or rose-water to prevent them oiling. Add a pinch of salt, the grated rind of a large lemon, four ounces of fresh butter, half a pound of sifted loaf sugar, and ten ounces of flour. When these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, work them together with the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, and leave them in a cool place for half an hour. Roll the paste out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, stamp it out in rounds about the size of an ordinary cup-plate, lay these upon a floured tin, and bake in a good oven. When they are firm and lightly coloured take them out, trim the edges, and when quite cold lay them onr upon another, and spread a thick layer o: differently coloured jam on the top of each round; and as each piece is put on press it lightly with the hand, so that the jam shall make the rounds adhere together, and so forn onecake. Before serving sift a little pink sugar over the top, or garnish as fancy dictates Time to bake the rounds, about half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Neapolitan Custard Pudding.—Cut two sponge-cakes into slices, and spread a little jam over each slice. Place them in a buttered -pie-dish, sprinkle over them six or seven powdered ratafias, and pour over the whole a custard made as follows :—Sweeten half a pint of milk with three lumps of sugar which have NEA ( 454 ) NEC been well rubbed upon the rind of a large fresh |. lemon. Let the custard ‘nearly boil, then stir into it a table-spoonful of flour which has been mixed smoothly with a little cold water. . Add two ounces of fresh butter, and stir the mixture over the fire until it thickens. When almost cold add the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, put the pudding into a moderate. oven, and bake until it stiffens. Whip the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, spread this on the top of the pudding, and sift about a table-spoonful of powdered white sugar over the surface. Put the pudding in the oven again eight or ten minutes before it is served, that the eggs may stiffen a little. Time to bake, half an hour, Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for four persons. Neapolitan Gateau (sce Gateau, Na-- politaine). Neapolitan Ice (see Glace, Napolitaine). Neapolitan Sauce.—Take one ounce of can ham, mince it finely, and put it into a small stewpan with quarter of a pint of thickened brown sauce, four table-spoonfuls of stock, a glassful of claret, one table-spoonful of Harvey’s sauce, two table-spoonfuls of red- currant jelly, one table-spoonful of grated horse-radish, two shallots, a small bay-leaf, half a, tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, one clove, an inch of mace, and a dozen peppercorns. Simmer gently for twenty minutes; _ strain, and serve. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Neapolitan Sweetmeats (a Dish for a Juvenile Party).—Roll out some good puff- paste to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it out in rounds, diamonds, or any shapes that may be preferred, remembering only to have ‘an equal number of each shape. Place these on a floured baking-sheet, and bake in a quick oven. When cold spread a thick layer of different coloured jams upon half of them, ' press the other halves on the top, and garnish with a little piping of pink and white icing. ‘Time, ten minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2s. per pound. a? * Neats’ Feet, Potted.—Boil two neat’s feet in a small quantity of water until the flesh easily leaves the bones. Cut. the meat into small pieces, and place these neatly ina mould. Season a small quantity of the liquid with salt, cayenne, and a little mace; pour it upon the meat, and when cold and stiff turn |. it out on a dish, and garnish with parsley. Time, four hourstor more to simmer the feet.' Probable cost, 8d: each. Sufficient for six or seven persons. , Neats’ Feet Soup.-Take two neat’s feet which have been merely scalded and cleaned, not boiled. Put them into a stewpan with three quarts of good stock, one pound of pickled pork, a bundle of sweet herbs, and the rind and juice of asmalllemon; simmer gently for four hours until the liquid is reduced to about half its quantity and the bones leave the flesh easily. Strain the soup ; cut the meat into: convenient-sized pieces, and return both again to the saucepan, adding one pint of strong beef- gravy and a glassful of sherry. Season with a “use. ‘gallons of nectar. — little cayenne and salt, if- necessary; boil up once more, and serve. ‘Time, five hours, Probable cost of feet, 8d. each. Sufficient for six or eight, persons. - ‘Neats’ Feet with Parsley Sauce.— A neat’s foot or cow’s heel, which is the same thing, is generally three-parts ‘cooked when offered for .sale.' If it is wished: to -cook it separately, one or two recipes will be found elsewhere; but the substance of the feet: con- sists of so little besides gelatine and bones that they are more valuable when stewed to enrich , other: dishes than when served by themselves. They are sometimes stewed. with avery small quantity of water until the bone leaves the flesh, and then served with a little parsley and butter, flavoured with lemon- juice: Probable cost, 8d. each. Sufficient, one foot for two persons. Neats’ Tongues, To Salt for.im- mediate use.—Take a couple of neats’ tongues. Trim them neatly, and cut off the roots without taking away the under fat, wash them thoroughly, dry them in a cloth, and rub them well with two ounces of common salt, one ‘ounce of brown sugar, and half an ounce of saltpetre:' Place them in a long deep pan, and turn and rub them every day for a fortnight, at the end of which time they will be ready for use. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. each. Sufficient, one tongue for eight or nine persons. Neats’ Tongues Cured for Keep- ing.—Prepare two tongues by trimming them neatly and cutting off the ‘roots without disturbing the under fat, Wash and dry them, and rub them well with an ounce of saltpetre and an ounce of sal prunella. “Rub them well every day for four days; ‘place them in a long | earthenware pan, cover them witha pound of common salt, and turn them every day. for three weeks.. ‘Wipe them with a soft cloth, dip them in bran, and hang them in smoke for a fortnight. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. to 48. 6d. each. Neat’s Tongue, Potted.—Take half a . pound of cold boiled neat’s tongue, with a small quantity ef fat. Cut it into thin slices, and pound it in a mortar; season it with half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, half a tea-spoonful of fresh mustard, and three or fopr grates of | nutmeg; add, whilst pounding, two ounces of clarified butter. Press the meat, into small pot- ting-jars, and pour clarified butter over the top. Time, half an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Nectar—tTake off the thin rind of two fresh lemons, and put it into an earthenware jar with one pound of chopped raisins and a ound and a half of sugar. , Pour over these ingredients two gallons of boiling water, let the liquid stand until cold, then add the strained juice of the lemons, and leave it in a cool place for a week, stirring it every day. Strain it through a jelly- bag ‘until quite clear, and bottle it for present Probable cost, 1s. 8d. , Sufficient for two -. Nectar (another way)—Take two pounds of chopped raisins, four pounds of loaf sugar, and two gallons of boiling water. Mix these NEC ( 455 ) NEC ingredients, and stir frequently till the water is cold, then add two, lemons sliced, three pints of proof spirit—either brandy orrum. Macerate in a closed vessel for six or seven days, giving the vessel a shake now and then,, then strain with pressure. Set the strained liqueur in a cool place for a week; when clear, decant and Dottle off. Nectar, May (see May Nectar). Nectar, Vauxhall, To Imitate (sce Vauxhall Nectar). . Nectarine Pudding. — Stew a dozen |' nectarines, not over-ripe, with a little sugar until they are quite tender.. Beat them well with a fork, remove the skin and the kernels, let them get cold, then mix with them the well- beaten yolks of four and the whites of two eggs, a quarter of a pint'of finely-grated bread- . crumbs which have been soaked in as much cream as they will absorb, and add a little more sugar if required. Line a dish with good puff- paste, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven; strew sifted.sugar over the top before serving. Time, cne hour to bake. Pro- ‘bable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Nectarines and Peaches. — These fruits are both the produce of the ‘same species of plant, the skin of the first being smooth, that of the second downy. Both contain a considerable quantity of sugar, but cannot boast of possessing great nutritive proper- ties. The seeds of, the nectarine,are employed for making noyeau and: flavouring brandy. Why ‘NECTARINE AND PEACH. Peaches and nectarines are dessert fruits of a very high order. .They make. delicious pre- serves, and in America and in some parts of France are used in the manufacture of a sort of brandy. The leaves contain: prussic acid, and consequently when steeped in gin or whisky impart a flavour resembling that of noyeau. According. to Mr, Loudon, the fol- lowing are the characteristics of a good peach or nectarine:—‘‘A good peach or nectarine possesses these qualities: the fleshisfirm; the. skin, is thin, of a deep or bright red colour next. ‘the sun, and of a yellowish green next the' wall; the. pulp:is of. a yellowish colour, full of high-flavoured aa the fleshy part thick, and the ‘stone small.” The peach was introduced into this country about the middle of the six- teenth century. It.is alwaysreared against-walls or under glass, Both peaches and nectarines are divided into the “free-stone”’ or.“‘ molting” peaches, in which the flesh or pulp separates readily from the stone; and the ‘‘cling-stone varieties,” in which, the flesh: clings or adheres to the stone. The first named are usually the best flavoured. : Nectarines, Candied.—Gather the nec- tarines when -perfectly sound’ and ‘not’ over- ‘ripe. Weigh them carefully, rub them with a soft cloth, split them in halves, and take out the stones; boil half their weight of sugar with a quarter of a pint of water to each pound, and when quite clear put in the nectarines, and. let them boil gently -until they are clear, but unbroken; then lift them out carefully, and put them on an inverted sieve to. drain. ‘Next day. boil the syrup until, it is quite. thick, put in the fruit, and boil it gently: for five minutes, and. on taking out the nectarines again drain them ; repeat this process twice. After the nec- tarines are taken out the last time spread them on dishes, place them in a moderate oven, sprinkle sifted sugar over them, and turn them about until they are dry. : Nectarines, Pickled.—Gather the nec- tarines when fully grown,-but not quite ripe. Look them over carefully, remove any that are at all blemished, and put the rest into salt and water. sufficiently strong to float an egg; laya thin board over the fruit to keep it well under water, and leave it for two or three days. At the end of that time drain it well, dry it with a soft cloth, put it into pickling jars, and cover entirely with good white wine vinegar. Put half a blade of, mace, six cloves, a. piece of ‘whole .gingér, and a quarter of a pint of mustard seed with each quart of vinegar. Tie ‘down the jars securely, and store ina: cool dry place. The pickle will be ready for use in two months. ' Keep the nectarines well covered. with vinegar. ee Nectarines, Preserved. — Gather , the nectarines when they are fully grown, but, not over-ripe. Split them in halves, and remoye the stones; put the weight of the fruit into a preserving pan, with a quarter. of a pint of water to every pound of sugar; boil it to a clear syrup, then, put in the fruit, and simmer ‘gently for twenty minutes. Pour the preservo carefully into a bowl, breaking it as little as possible, and let it remain until the next day, when it must be boiled again for ten minutes. Lift the fruit. out carefully with a spoon, put it into jars, boil the syrup fast by itself. for ten minutes, and pour it over the fruit.; break the stones and. blanch the kernels,.put a portion in each jar, and tie down securely. Store in a ‘cool dry place. ae Nectarines, Preserved (another way). —Gather the nectarines when fully grown, but not over-ripe. Wipe them with. a soft cloth, and put. them. into. a pan. of boiling water. Place them, near the fire, but not upon it, ag it NEG ( 456 ) NET is only necessary that the water should not be allowed to cool. Let the nectarines remain for an hour, then take them out, throw them at once into cold water, and leave them for another hour. Place them on an inverted sieve to drain. Push out the stones. Put the weight of the fruit in loaf sugar into a preserving-pan with a quarter of a pint or cold water to each pound of sugar. Boil to a clear syrup, then put in the nectarines, and the kernels blanched and sliced, and let them boil for five minutes. Pour them carefully into a bowl, and let them remain for twenty-four hours. Drain off the syrup, and boil it for five minutes every day for a week, pouring it each time boiling hot over the fruit. At the end of that time boil all together quickly for ten minutes. Lift the nectarines carefully out with a spoon, and put them into jars with a portion of the blanched kernels in each jar. Add the boiling syrup, and when cold tie down securely. Store in a cool dry place. Wegus.—This popular beverage derives its name from its originator, Colonel Negus. The ingredients of which it is composed are either port or sherry and hot water, the quantity of the water being double that of the wine. Sweeten with lump sugar, and flavour with a little lemon-juice, and grated-nutmeg, and a morsel only of the yellow rind of the lemon. It is an improvement to add one drop of essence of ambergris, or eight or ten drops of essence of vanilla to every twelve glasses or so of negus. Negus (another way).—Sweeten the wine according to taste, and grate a little nutmeg into it. The proportions are generally three ounces of sugar and a quarter of a small nutmeg to a pint of port. Mix with it an equal quantity of boiling water, and serve either hot or cold. ‘The thin rind of a lemon or a Seville orange, without any of the inside of the fruit, is a great improvement to negus. Time, « few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, according to the quality of the wine. Sufficient for a quart of negus. Nesselrode Pudding.—Peel two dozen Spanish chestnuts. Put them into boiling water for five minutes, then take off the second skin, and boil them until tender with half a stick of vanilla and half the thin rind of a fresh lemon in the water with them. Drain them well, and pound them inamortar. Press them through a hair-sieve, and mix with them a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, a glass of maraschino, and half a pint of thick cream. Dissolve three- quarters of an ounce of best isinglass in a little water, stir it into half a pint of hot cream, add the chestnuts, &c., and keep stirring the mix- ture gently until it is sufficiently stiff to hold the fruit without letting it fall to the bottom. Work in two ounces of picked and dried cur- rants, and two ounces of candied citron cut into thin strips. Put the mixture into an oiled mould, and set ina cool place to stiffen. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to boil the chestnuts. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Nesselrode Pudding (another way).— Peel about two dozen Spanish chestnuts. Throw them into boiling water, and let them remain for five minutes. Drain them, take off the second skin, and put them into a saucepan with a pint of water and half a stick of vanilla, and let them simmer until quite tender; then pound in a mortar to a smooth paste, and press them through a fine sieve. Mix the well-beaten yolks of four eggs with a pint of warm cream, and add four ounces of loaf sugar. Put the custard into a jug, place it in a pan of boiling water,: and stir it gently until it thickens. Put in the pounded chestnuts, and pass the mixture through a tamis. Add a glass of maraschino, and freeze in the ordinary way. Take one ounce of stoned raisins, one ounce of candied citron cut into slices, and one ounce of dried and picked cur- rants. To prepare them, let them soak in a little maraschino mixed with a small quantity of sugar for several hours, or let them simmer gently in syrup for about twenty minutes, then drain and cool them. When the pudding is set, put the fruit in with it. Boil a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar and a quarter of a pint of water toa syrup, beat it briskly with a wooden spoon for a few minutes, mix with it the whites of three eggs which have been whisked to a firm froth. Work these into the pudding, and add last of all half a pint of whipped cream. Place the pudding in an ice-mould, put on the lid, freeze, and turn out when wanted. Pro- bable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Nettle.—The common nettle is one of a tribe of plants which includes the fig, the hop, and others employed as food. Nettles are used as an article of diet in some parts of the country. They are wholesome, and almost medicinal in their properties. Nettle Beer.—The stalks and leaves of the nettle are used in some parts of England for making a light kind of beer, which may be seen advertised at stalls, and in humble shops in Manchester and other towns. Nettle, Rennet of.—In the Western Islands of Scotland a rennet is prepared by adding a quart of salt to three pints of a strong decoction of nettles, a table-spoonful of which is said to be sufficient to coagulate a bowl of milk. Nettle Tops.—The young tops of the common and smaller nettles may be boiled as pot-herbs during spring, and eaten as a sub- stitute for greens; they are not only nourishing, but mildly aperient. Nettles, Spring, To Boil.—In many country-places nettles are eaten freely as a vegetable in the early part of the year, as the are considered excellent for purifying the blood. The young light green leaves only should be taken. They must be washed carefully and boiled in two waters, a little salt and a very small piece of soda being put in the last water. When tender, turn them into a colander, press the water from them; put them into a hot ‘vegetable dish, score them across three or four times, and serve. Send melted butter to table inatureen. Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil. Probable cost, uncertain, nettles being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, two pounds for four persons. NEU ( 457 ) NOR Neufchatel Pudding.—Beat the yolks of four eggs briskly for three or four minutes, then put them into a saucepan, and with them the whites of two eggs, eight ounces of fresh butter, and four ounces of pounded and sifted sugar.. Stir gently over a slow fire for twenty minutes or more. Line a pie-dish with good puff-paste. Spread on the bottom a layer of either orange marmalade, or apricot jam, pour the mixture on the top, and bake in a good oven. Sift a little sugar over the pudding before serving. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. New College Puddings.—Shred a quar- ter of a pound of beef-suet very finely, mix with it four ounces of finely-grated bread- crumbs, or, if preferred, powdered sweet biscuit, add a quarter of a pound of currants, a pinch’of salt, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, and an ounce of finely-shred candied peel. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, moisten them with three well-beaten eggs, add as much milk as will make them of the proper consistence, and fry them in spoonfuls, in a little hot butter, till they are brightly browned on both sides. Shake the pan frequently to prevent them burning, and turn them over when one side is sufficiently cooked. Arrange them neatly on a hot dish, and strew sifted sugar thickly over them before serving. Time, six or eight minutes to fry. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. New England Pancakes.—Mix three table-spoonfuls of fine flour very smoothly with a little cold milk. Add gradually half a pint of cream, a small pinch of salt, the well-whisked yolks of four and the whites of two eggs, a heaped table-spoonful of sifted sugar, and two or three drops of lemon, almond, or any other flavouring. Let the batter stand for an hour before it is cooked, then fry it in pancakes as thin as possible. Strew a little sifted sugar and powdered cinnamon upon each pancake, and roll it round before putting it in the dish. Serve very hot. Time, five minutes to fry each pancake. four or five persons. Newmarket Pudding.—Put a pint and a quarter of good milk into a saucepan, with three ounces of sugar, a bay-leaf, the thin rind of half a lemon, and a little piece of stick cinnamon. Simmer gently for ten minutes. Let the milk cool, then mix with it the well- whisked yolks of five and the whites of three fresh eggs. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve. Butter apie-dish. Put a layer of thin bread and butter at the bottom, then a layer of currants and stoned-and-chopped raisins. Repeat until the dish is nearly full. Pour the custard over, let’ the bread soak for an hour, and bake in a moderate oven. Time, about three- quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. New York Plum Cake (see Plum Cake, New York). ! ; Nightcap.—Simmer half a pint of ale, and when on the point of boiling pour it out; grate half a quarter of a nutmeg into it, and adda | minutes to heat the ale. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for ' tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and two table- spoonfuls of brandy. Drink the nightcap the last thing before getting into bed. ‘Time, five Sufficient for one person, Nightcap, Bishop Oxford (see Bishop Oxford Nightcap). Nockerl.—Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream; mix smoothly with it two ounces of dried flour, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and the white of one; add a pinch of salt, and the eighth of a small nutmeg grated. Spread the mixture on a flat dish, and put it in a cool place for a couple of hours. A few minutes before it is wanted, put a little broth or milk into a saucepan, and let it boil- Take the mixture up in small quantities, form | these into shape with a wet spoon, being careful to handle them as little as possible, and drop them into the boiling liquid. When. done enough, drain them, grate a little Parmesan over them, and serve as hot as possible. Time, six or eight minutes to boil. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Nonesuch Pudding.—Grate the rind of a large fresh lemon upon three ounces of loaf sugar; crush it to powder, and mix it with four ounces of dried flour. Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to a cream. Add gradually and smoothly the sugar and flour, two ounces of raisins, stoned and chopped small, and five eggs well-beaten. Mix thoroughly, and pour the pudiing into a buttered mould ; plunge it into boiling water, turn it out before Serving, and send: some good custard or wine sauce to table with it. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Nonpareil Liqueur.—Take a fully- ripe pine-apple, and pare off the outside skin; bruise it in a mortar; add one dozen and a half of sharp ripe white magnum bonum plums, and one dozen of ripe jargonelle pears quartered; then to every four pounds of fruit add six pounds of loaf-sugar and three, pints of water. Put the whole into « preserving- pan, and boil for three-quarters of an hour, taking off the scum as it rises. Then put it into a can or jar until cold; add three quarts of gooseberry-brandy, and let it stand for six weeks; pass it through the jelly-bag. This is a very fine liqueur. Norfolk Biffins, Dried.—The Norfolk beefing, or ‘biffin, is the name given to a hard, sweet apple well known in Norfolk, which is remarkable for being rosy coloured both inside and out, and which is prepared by being baked gently in the oven, flattened into the form of a round cake, and so preserved. , Biffins may afterwards be stewed, like Normandy pippins, or made into pies. They may be purchased ready dried, but if prepared at home should be baked very gently, taken out every now and then to cool, slightly flattened, and then put into the oven again. . If great care is not taken they will burst, and so be spoilt. Probable cost, uncooked, 2s. per pound. Norfolk Dumplings.—Beat two eggs thoroughly. Add a cupful of milk, a pinch of NOR ( 458 ) NOT _sajlt, and as much. flour as will make a stiff batter. Haveready a pan of fast-boiling water. Drop the batter into it, in small lumps, and when boiled enough, serve immediately ; if allowed to stand, the dumplings will become heavy. Time to boil, ten minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for four persons. Norfolk es (another way).— ‘When bread is made at home, take a little of the dough just ready for the oven; make it up into. small balls about the size of an orange, drop them into fast-boiling water, and when done enough, drain them, and serve imme- diately. Send melted butter, sweetened and flavoured with lemon juice, to table with them. The dumplings should be torn apart with two forks when they are eaten, or they will be heavy. To ascertain if they are done enough, stick a fork quickly into them; if it come out clear, they are sufficiently cooked. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 3d. Suf- ficient, one pound of dough for about four people. Norfolk Punch.—Take the rind of six- teen fresh lemons and sixteen Seville oranges, pared so thinly as to be quite free from white. Put them into an earthenware jar, pour over them two quarts of brandy, and let them in- fuse for forty-eight hours. Strain the brandy, mix with it a syrup made by boiling two pounds of loaf sugar with three quarts of water until quite clear. The syrup must have become cold before it.is added to the brandy; add the strained and filtered juice of the oranges and lemons; mix thoroughly, put the liquor into a perfectly clean spirit-cask, or into a jar; let it remain for six weeks, when-it may be bottled or not, as is most convenient. This punch will improve with keeping : some persons add a pint of new,milk before putting it . into the cask. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for a gallon and a half of punch. : Norfolk Rice.—Pick off the white meat from a dried: haddock. Tear it into shreds with two forks, and mix with it the whites of three hard-boiled eggs, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and an-equal quantity of rice boiled as if for curry, and shaken over the fire with a little fresh butter until quite hot. Pile high on a hot dish; mix the yolks of the eggs with a little grated Parmesan, and strew the mixture over the rice and fish, Put the dish in the oven, or hold a hot iron shovel over it, to brown it slightly, and garnish with fried sippets. Serve as hot as possible. Time, five .minutes to colour the rice. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Norfolk’s Pudding, Duke of (sce Duke of Norfolk’s Pudding). Norman Haricot of Veal (see Veal, ‘Norman Haricot of). Normandy Pippins.—Take half a pound of Normandy pippins. Let them soak for an hour or two in a pint and a half of water in which has been put an inch of whole “ginger and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pow- -dered cinnamon, At.the end of that time put’ them into a stewpan, with the thin rind of - a large lemon and two ounces of sugar, and. let them simmer gently until they are half done, then add other. two ounces of sugar.’ When quite tender, take out the pippins, and place them in a glass dish: strain the gravy, flavour it if wished either with a glass of port or the strained juice of the lemon, pour. it over the pippins, and place a small piece of lemon-rind upon each. Normandy pippins- are delicious when eaten with Devonshire cream, and the appearance of the dish is improved if a small knob of créam is placed’ between the apples. Time to stew, about three hours. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. _ Sufficient for four or-five persons. NaC. Normandy Pippins, Stewed (another way).—Take half a pound of pippins. Soak them as in the last recipe; or, if time is a!con- sideration, put them into a saucépan with as much cold water as will cover them, let them simmer very gently for twenty minutes, then drain the water from them, and let them get cold. Put. them into a.clean saucepan, with half a pint of water, a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, the thin rind and strained juice of a lemon, a Seville orange, a St. Michael’s orange, an inch of stick cinnamon, two cloves, and a glass of sherry. Simmer very gently until ‘the pippins are quite tender but‘ un- broken. Take them out, put them in a glass dish, boil the syrup. quickly for ten minutes, and strain it over the fruit. Devonshire cream, or.a little ordinary thick cream, is a great im- provement to this dish. Serve cold. One or two drops of prepared cochineal will improve the colour. Time, about three hours to stew the pippins. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Northumberland’s Pudding, Duke of (sce Duke of Northumberland’s Pudding). Norwegian Puddings.—Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to:a cream, mix with it a quarter of a pound of: ground rice, one ounce of fine flour, a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, half a tea-spoonful of baking- powder, and any flavouring that may be pre- ferred. Add two well-whisked eggs, and beat all briskly together for four or five minutes. Butter some cups, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven. Turn out the puddings when done enough, put them on a dish, and pour over them half a pint of good wine sauce, boiling hot. Sprinkle some powdered sugar over them, and serve at once. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Nottingham Pudding.—Take half a dozen large'apples of uniform'size. Pare and core without breaking them, and fill the centre of each with a little butter, some moist sugar, and grated nutmeg. Put them side by side in a well-buttered pie-dish, and cover them with a light batter made as follows :—Mix six table- speonfuls of flour very smoothly with a little cold water, add three well-beaten eggs, a pinch ‘of salt, and milk sufficient to make the batter of the consistence of thick cream. This will be about three-quarters of a pint. Bake the NoT (469 ) NOU pudding in a moderate oven.. The batter will be better if made an hour or two before'it is wanted.. Time to bake, a hour and, a half. -Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. : : Nottingham Pudding (another way).— See Apple Pudding, Nottingham. * Nougat.—Nougat is a sort of paste made of sugar, almonds, pistachio nuts, or filberts, and used by confectioners for making pretty sweet dishes. A little practice is necessary before it,can be well made. The process’ is as follows :—Blanch one pound of Jordan almonds, dry them well in a soft cloth, cut them into quarters, put them on a baking sheet in a cool oven, and let them remain until quite hot through and lightly browned. When they are nearly ready, put half a pound of sifted sugar into a copper pan, without any water, move it about with ‘a wooden spoon. When it is melted and begins to bubble, ‘stir in the hot almonds gently, so as not to break them.’ ‘Have -ready the mould -which is to be used, slightly but thoroughly oiled, and spread the paste all over it about a quarter of an inch thick. This is the difficult part of the operation, as the . nougat hardens very quickly. «The pan in which it is should be kept in'a warm place, to prevent it stiffening before the mould is finished. It is a good plan to spread out a piece for the bottom of the mould first, and put that in its place, then pieces for the ; sides. Care must be taken, however, to make these pieces stick closely together. A cut lemon dipped in oil is a great assistance in spreading the paste. When the nougat is firmly set, turn it out carefully, and serve it on a stand filled with whipped cream, or as required. Time to boil the sugar, till it is well melted. Probable cost, 2s. for a good-sized mouid. Nougat, Almond (see Almond Nougat). Nougats (4 la Francaise).—For dessert.— Prepare the nougat asin the last recipe. If preferred; pistachio kernels may be used instead of almonds,.and the sugar may be coloured _with cochineal, and flavoured with vanilla. ‘When the paste is ready, spread it out on an oiled slab to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, strew coloured sugar or nonpareil comfits on the surface, mark it into oblong shapes, and out it before it is cold. It should be’ stored in a tin box ina dry place’ until wanted for use, and should be served, piled up prettily, on a napkin. ‘ Nougats, Small.—Nougats intended for small moulds should be made in the same way as for large ones, excepting that the, almonds should be finely shred instead of being. quar- .-tered. When the paste is ready, put it into the . small oiled moulds, and take care that it is pressed into all the corners. It is well for three or four persons to be engaged at once in - filling the moulds, that they may be done as expeditiously as possible, and so be all of .one colour, as the nougat gets darker with being melted. Turn the shapes out when: set, fill them with whipped cream, and serve, neatly arranged, on a.folded- napkin. Probable | very hot. | cream or new milk in a saucepan. it six ounces of fresh butter, add a quarter of cost, Jordan almonds, 2s. 6d. per-pound; sweet almonds, 1s, ‘ 4 Nouilles,—Nouilles are made of delicate pastry, cut up into ribands and various shapes, and used as a substitute for vermicelli and macaroni, either in making fritters or puddings, or for serving with cheese, or in soup. They are made as follows:—Take' half a pound of fine flour, put it on the pastry-board, make a hole | in the centre, and in this put two eggs. ‘Adda pinch of salt, half'an ounce of butter, and a | tea-spoonful of cold water, and mix all to- gether into a very firm, smooth paste. Leave it 4 little while to dry, then'roll it out as thin as possible, and cut it into thin bands about an inch and a quarter in width. Dredge a little flour upon these, and lay four or‘five of them one above another, then cut: them through into thin shreds, something like vermicelli; shake them well, to: prevent their sticking together, and spread them out to dry. Nouilles. cannot be made without a straight rolling-pin and smooth pastry-board. When wanted for use, drop them gradually into boiling water, stirring gently with a wooden spoon to keep them from getting lumpy. Let them boil’'from six to twenty minutes, thén take them up with a strainer, drain them well, and spread them out on a coarse cloth. Besides thread-like nouilles, a few may be made the size and shape of scarlet-runner beans, or small birds’. eggs, or they may be cut broad like macaroni. ’ ‘If thoroughly dried, they will keep any length of time stored in‘tin canisters. Probable cost, 3d. for this quantity. ‘ Nouilles, Boiled in Milk,—Takethree- quarters of a pound of freshly-made nouilles cut very fine and dried. Dissolve a, little butter in a stewpan, put in the: nouilles, and shake the pan over the fire until they are well browned. . Pour over them as much good milk as will cover them well, and let them simmer gently until they are. quite soft,, Add two table-spoonfuls of sugar. and three. well-beaten eggs, steam a few minutes longer, and serve as hot as possible. Time to boil the nouilles, until soft, from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. . Nouilles, Buttered.—Throw the nouilles into boiling water, and let them boil for three minutes.. Take them up with a strainer, put them on a hot dish; melt some fresh butter in a stewpan; sprinkle a large handful of bread- crumbs in it, and let them remain until, they are lightly browned, then put them upon the nouilles. Clarify a little more butter, if the first portion was dried up in browning, the crumbs, and pour it over the dish; serve Time, ten minutes. to boil the nouilles. a Nouilles, Fritters of (delicious eaten cold).— Make a pound of flour’ into nouilles pastry, as already directed (see Nouilles). Cut it into thin strips; boil a pint and a half of Dissolve in a pound of loaf sugar which has been well rubbed upon the rind of a-large fresh lemon, and a pinch:of salt. Drop the pastry into the NOU ( 460 ) NOY boiling liquid, and simmer gently for three- quarters of an hour, until it has become a stiff paste. Take it from the fire, and when it is cool stir briskly in with it the well-beaten yolks of six eggs. Spread it out on a large buttered baking-tin, about a quarter of an inch thick, and bake in a moderate oven; when brightly coloured, take it out, divide it in halves, put one half upon a large flat dish, spread some jam thickly over, place the other half upon it, pressing it lightly with the fingers, and when quite cold, stamp it in small shapes with an ordinary pastry-cutter. Serve neatly arranged ona napkin. These cakes should be prepared the day they are wanted for use, as they do not improve with keeping. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 10d., if simmered in milk. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Nouilles, Genoises de (sce Genoises de Nouilles). Nouilles Pudding.—Make some nouilles pastry as before directed. Cut and dry the nouilles, throw them into boiling water, and let them simmer until soft. Take them up with a strainer, and stir into them, while hot, two ounces of fresh butter; beat three ounces of butter to a cream, mix with it the well-whisked yolks of three eggs, and add this to the rest. Butter a pudding mould rather thickly, cover the inside with bread raspings; whisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth. Gently stir them into the pudding, put it into the mould, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. Suf- ficient for four or five persons. Nouilles, Rolled (a German recipe).— Roll out some nouilles pastry as thin as possible, then, instead of cutting it into threads as before directed (see Nouilles), cut it into rounds about the size of a crown-piece, sprinkle a little finely-minced ham, mixed with parsley and any seasoning that may be wished, upon each, and roll it up. Put the rolls in a stewpan, pour over them a little broth, and let them simmer very gently for an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Nouilles, Soup of.—Make half a pound of flour into nouilles as directed. Cut it into strips, and spread it on a sheet of paper in a warm place to dry. Take three pints of any nicely seasoned soup; put it on the fire, and when it is boiling, drop the nouilles gra- dually in with one hand, and with the other stir them gently with a wooden spoon, to keep them from getting into lumps. They will swell considerably in the liquid. Serve as hot as possible. Time to boil the nouilles,’ ten minutes. Probable cost of nouilles, 3d. Suf- ficient for six or seven persons. Nouilles Turnovers.--Nouilles turn- overs are slightly similar to nouilles rolls. Make the pastry rather softer than usual by adding a little water, roll it out very thin, cut into pieces the shape of an egg, about two inches across, and cover half the surface of each with a little fruit finely-minced, sweetened, and avoured, and mixed with a few bread-crumbs. Turn the other halves over, fasten the edges securely, put the turnovers into a little boiling water, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Drain them well, and serve them on a hot dish with powdered sugar sprinkled thickly over them. Time to simmer, one hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Nouilles, with Ham.—Prepare some nouilles paste as directed in the preceding recipe. Simmer for six minutes, drain, and dry them; put them into a saucepan, with a pint and a half of boiling gravy, one ounce of fresh butter, three ounces of boiled ham (fat and lean together cut into dice), and two ounces of grated Parmesan, or, if preferred, any other cheese which is not strong in flavour. Mix lightly with a wooden spoon, taking care not to break the nouilles, add pepper and salt if required, and serve in a hot vegetable dish, accompanied by hot buttered toast, and a little good mustard. Probable cost, 28. 6d. ~Suf- ficient for six or eight persons. Nouilles with Parmesan, or au Gratin.—Make half a pound of flour into nouilles paste, as directed in the last recipe. Cut it into strips, and boil these for ten minutes in three pints of water, slightly salted. Take them out, drain them, and put them into a stewpan, with a pint of milk or gravy, an ounce of butter, the eighth of a nutmeg grated, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Simmer gently until all the liquid has been absorbed, then add another quarter of a pint of either cream or gravy, a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan, and another ounce of butter; shake the pan over the fire, until the cheese is melted. Pile the mixture high in a buttered dish, sprinkle over it one ounce of grated Parmesan, a table-spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg passed through a sieve and powdered. Place the dish in the oven for a few minutes, or hold a red-hot iron shovel over it until it is lightly coloured, and serve as hot as possible. Time, altogether, an hour and « quarter. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. November, Fifth of, Gingerbread for the (sce Gingerbread Parkin). Noyeau.—Noyeau is a liqueur prepared in the island of Martinique, in the West Indies, from a berry which grows there. It requires to be used with great care, as it is not whole- some. Imitations of it are very common, as the real article is rare and expensive. ’ Two or three recipes are here given. Noyeau, Imitation.—This is a liqueur with an agreeable nutty taste. It should only be partaken of, however, in -mall quantities in consequence of the considerable proportion of prussic acid which it contains. Take three ounces of bruised bitter almonds, one quart of spirit, and a pound of sugar dissolved in three- quarters of a pint of water. Macerate for ten days, shaking the vessel at frequent intervals ; at the end of that time let it rest for a few days, then decant the clear liquid. Apricots or peach- kernels, with the shells bruised, may be sub- stituted for the almonds. eae, NOY ( 461 ). NUN Noyeau (another way-—for immediate use). —Gather quarter of a pound of young peach leaves on a dry, sunny day. Put them into a jar, ‘and pour over them two pints of good brandy or whisky, and leave them to infuse for a couple of days. Add a syrup made by dissolving a pound of sugar in a pint of water. Let the noyeau remain a few hours longer, then filter it carefully, and it is ready for use. Probable cost, uncertain, peach leaves being seldom sold. Sufficient for three pints and a half of noyeau. Noyeau (another way).—Blanch and pound three ounces of -peach, apricot, or nectarine kernels. Put them into a jar, pour over them a quart of French brandy, and leave them in a warm place for three days, shaking them fre- quently; add a pound of powdered and sifted sugar-candy, and let the liquid stand a few hours longer; strain, and bottle for use. If preferred, one ounce of French prunes with their kernels can be substituted for a third of the apricot kernels, or a little thin lemon-rind may be added. This is a very agreeable liqueur, but, like many other preparations of the same sort, it is not particularly wholesome. Pro- bable cost, according to the price of the spirit. Sufficient for a quart of noyeau. Noyeau (made with honey). — Blanch and pound three ounces of bitter and one of sweet almonds. Put them into a jar, pour over them a quart of pure brandy or whisky, and leave them to infuse for three days, shaking them every now and then. Strain the liquid carefully through filtering-paper, and add one pound of loaf sugar dissolved in half a pint of boiling water, and two table-spoonfuls of fine honey. Bottle for use. Probable cost, 1s., exclusive of the spirit. Sufficient for three pints of noyeau. Noyeau (to be stored six months before being used).—Blanch and pound three ounces of bitter almonds and two ounces of sweet almonds to a smooth paste. Put them into a jar, and pour over them one quart of English gin.- Add the thin rind of a small lemon if approved, and let the jar stand'in a warm place for three days, and shake it well every day. At the end of that time dissolve one pound of loaf sugar in half a pint of boiling water, add the ip to the contents of the jar, and leave it forty-eight hours longer, shaking it every now andthen. Strain the liquid carefully, put it into bottles, and cork it closely. The liqueur will improve with keeping. The best way to strain the noyeau is to put four or five thin pieces of wood inside a funnel, then cover these with doubled white blotting-paper, and pour in the liquid. Patience will be required, as syrup does not quickly filtrate. French brandy may with advantage be substituted for the gin. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the gin. Suf- ficient for three pints. : Noyeau Cream.—Dissolve one ounce of best Russian isinglass in half a pint of water, add four ounces of loaf sugar, the strained juice of a small lemon, and one pint of thick cream, together with a little noyeau. The quantity must be’ regulated by the strength of the noyeau, as well as by taste. Pour the liquid into a well-oiled mould, and put it ina cool, dry place to set. Turn it cut carefully before serving. Time, half an hour to dissolve the isinglass. Probable cost, 3s., exclusive of the noyeau. Sufficient for a quart mould. Noyeau Ice Creams.—Sweeten half a pint ot thick cream with two ounces of sugar. Add a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice and w glass of noyeau. Mix thoroughly, and freeze in the usual way. Time, half an hour to freeze the mixture. - Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for a pint of ice cream. Noyeau Jelly.—Dissolve one ounce of best Russian isinglass in half a pint of water. Add one pound of loaf sugar boiled to a syrup in half a pint of water, the strained juice of a lemon, and a glass of noyeau. Strain the jelly until it is clear, pour it into a damp mould, and put it into a cool place to set. Turn it out on a glass dish just before it is wanted. Time to clarify the isinglass, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the noyeau, 1s.8d. Sufficient for one pint and a half of jelly. Noyeau Jelly with Almonds.—Pre- pare one pint and a half of jelly according to the directions given in the last recipe. Blanch two ounces of almonds, cut them into thin shreds, and:throw them into cold water. When the jelly is.quite clear, put a little of it at the bottom of a damp mould. Let it set, then sprinkle half a tea-spoonful of the almonds upon it, and pour a little more jelly on. Repeat until the mould is full. Put the mould ina cool place, and turn the jelly out when quite stiff, A little whipped cream may be put round it in the dish. Time, half an, hour to clarify the isinglass. Probable cost, 2s., exclusive of the oe Sufficient for a pint and a half mould. Nuns’ Balls.—Roll half a pound of good puff-paste into a long piece about.a quarter of an inch thick. Stamp it out in rounds the size of a five-shilling piece, lay upon half of these a tea-spoonful of jam, and cover them over with the other halves. Press the edges securely. Fry the balls in hot butter until they are lightly browned. Drain the fat well from them, and serve them, piled on a hot napkin, with pounded and sifted sugar thickly strewn | over them. Time to fry, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Nuns’ Balls (another way).—Prepare the pastry as in the last recipe, but instead of putting jam upon the rounds, put a tea-spoon- ful of a mixture prepared as follows :—Grate very finely a quarter of a pound of good cheese. Beat it well in a mortar, and mix with it two table-spoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs, the yolks of three eggs well-beaten, and a little salt and cayenne. Fasten the edges securely, and ‘fry in hot butter until lightly browned. Drain thoroughly from the fat, and serve hot, piled high on a napkin. Time, ten minutes, to fry the balls. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for three or four persons. 7 Nuns’ Biscuits.—Take four ounces of sweet almonds, and five or six bitter ones. NUN ( 462 ) OAT Blanch them, and pound them in a mortar to a smooth paste, and keep dropping a little | orange-flower water on them to prevent them oiling. Rub the yellow rind of two large fresh lemons upon half a pound of loaf sugar, - crush it to powder, sift it well, and mix it with the almonds; add two ounces of dried - flour, a table-spoonful of, finely-minced candied _ citron, the yolks of six eggs, well beaten, and last of all the whites whisked to a firm, froth. Put a spoonful or two of the mixture into some small patty-pans well buttered, and bake in a moderate oven. When they are brightly browned, turn them out of the pans, put them upon baking-tins, and place them again in the oven to harden. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Nuns’ Cake.—Beat eight ounces of fresh butter to a cream; add half a pound. of fine flour, a small nutmeg grated, eight ounces of powdered sugar, the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, and a table-spoonful of cold water. Mix thoroughly, then stir in the whites of two of the eggs whisked to a solid froth. Work all briskly together for some minutes. Pour the mixture into.a buttered mould, and, being care- ful to leave room for it to rise, bake in a mode- rate oven for about an hour. Probable cost, . 1s, 4d. Sufficient for a quart mould. Nuremberg Egg.—Put an egg in boil- ing water, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes. Take it out, remove the shell, and dip it in batter. Fry it in hot butter until it is browned all over, then dip it in again, and repeat this until the ball is sufficiently large. Serve on a hot dish; and pour wine-sauce over it. Time, according to size. . Nuremberg Gingerbread.—Beat four : eggs thoroughly; mix with them half a nut- meg grated, six pounded cloves, two ounces each of candied lemon and citron finely minced, and eight ounces of powdered ‘sugar. Stir: these briskly for ten minutes; then add very | gradually half a-pound of dried flour, a small pinch of salt, and half a quarter ofan ounce of | carbonate of soda dissolved in‘a little warm | milk. When the ingredients are thoroughly blended, put with them eight ounces of sweet almonds blanched and sliced. Spread the mixture a quarter of an inch thick on wafer- paper, cut it into fingers, place these on -but- tered tins, and bake in a very moderate oven. Time, about half an hour to bake. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. ee topes Nut Cakes, Hazel (see Hazel-nut Cakes). . Nutmegs: are the sced of a small tree belonging to the natural order Myristicacee. In | Great ‘Britain about 2,000 lbs. are eonsumed annually. Pereira mentions that to prevent the . attacks of an insect known as the nutmeg insect, | the nuts are frequently limed. For Eng- lish market, however, the brown or unlimed nutmegs are preferred. “The Dutch lime them | by dipping them into a thick mixture of lime’ and. water ;, but this process is considered to” injure their flavour. Others lime them by rub-.’ bing them with recently-prepared well-sifted lime.” This process ig sometimes practised in London.” ‘Nutmeg, Tincture of.— Grate three ounces of nutmeg; put the powder into a quart bottle, and: fill it up with good brandy or spirits of wine. Cork it, and shake it well every day for a fortnight, then pour off the liquid, leaving the sediment behind. Put the tincture into small bottles, cork these ' closely, and store for use. Probable cost, according to the quality of the spirit. Sufficient, three drops to flavour half a pint of liquid. ; : Nutritive Drink. — Beat three eggs thoroughly; add a pint of cold water, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, two.glasses of sherry, and the strained juice of a fresh lemon. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient to fill two tumblers. Nutritive Properties of Food (see Properties of Food, &c.). Nuts, American Dough (sce Dough | Nuts, American). aa O hi , Oat-cake.—Oat-cakes, or oatmeal cakes, ’ are very common in the North of England. They are eaten with butter or cheese, either toasted or plain. When first made they are quite soft, but after they have been dried before the fire for a,few, minutes they become crisp and hard. "When made in perfection: they, are as thin as wafers, and are certainly. very good eating, though not. of a very satis. fying nature. They are baked on a. bakestone, or, backstone, which: is a, kind of thick frying, pan, made of iron or stone. Oat-cake.—Mix two or three table-spoon- fuls of oatmeal with a pinch of salt and a little cold water. Knead it well round and round with the hands for some minutes, then spread it _ on a pastry-board as thin as possible, and strew meal under and over it. Move it, by meansofa baking spittle to the bakestone, and, bake it on both sides over a clear fire. It is-well to mix sufficient oatmeal, and water for.one cake at a time, as the. batter soon dries. Time, two or three minutes to ,bake the cakes.. Probable cost, 3d, per dozen, 7” Oat-cake, Lancashire.—In Lancashire: oat-cakes are partially made cither with butter- milk or’ with meal which has been’ tnixed and left for a few days to turn aour. © They are’ baked very much in the same way as in the preceding recipe. It is necessary, however, to see these cakes rade by some one accustomed to the work before ‘attempting their manufacture. Oat-cake, made with Yeast.—Put a quart of water into a bowl, and mix with it one’ ounce of dissolved German yeast. Sprinkle three and a half pounds of fine oatmeal into it,’ stirring it briskly all: the time, and when the mixture is smooth and thick, place the bow] i! a warm place, cover it with a cloth, and leave it’ half an hour to rise. Stir it well, spread it-out very thin, sprinkle a little oatmeal under and ‘over ‘it, ‘and throw it upon the bakestone, which: * should be placed over a bright-fire; when lightly: OAT ( 463 ) OIL browned:on one side, turn it on the other. The cakes may either be eaten soft, or hung to crisp upon a cord which has been stretched across the | kitchen. “While the cakes are baking, the dust of the oatmeal should be swept off with a small brush.- Time to bake, two minutes. Probable cost, 4d. per dozen. ; Oatmeal.—Oats, in the form of oatmeal, are rich in flesh-formers and heat-givers, and serve as a nutritious and excellent: diet when the occupation is not sedentary. The outer ‘husk of oats, unlike wheat, is poor in albn- menoid matters, so that oatmeal is better than the whole oat as food. In’ making one quarter of ‘oats (828 Ibs.) yields 188 Ibs. of meal and' 74 Ibs. of husks, the rest being water. cones is remarkable for its large amount of at. * ; 100 parts contain : — Water |. 8 ros Albumenoid Matters Gum a “ Fat . = owe ‘ a 5 i Fibre : 3 . Zi : Mineral Matter 9... a 3 Water .- = ’ : ‘ Flesh and Force.Producers ». Force Producers ‘ i 3 Mineral Matters. 2 sl “One re of: oatmeal, when oxidised” ore ne ob et C2 CNTR G8 “C8 BD Nee Sr Se SRS SHAWKACGH man to perform is 488 tons raised one foot high. One pound of oatmeal can produce at the maxi- mum 2$ ozs. of dry muscle or flesh.” “Oatmeal,” Pereira remarks, ‘‘is an important'and valuable, article of food. -With the exception of maize or Indian cora, ‘it is richer in oily or fatty matter than any other of the cultivated cereal grains ; and its proportion of protein compounds exceeds that' of the’ finest English wheaten flour; so , that, both in ripest to as heat and fat nee blood making principles, ‘it | 00! eee el do” the boiling milk, and beaten as. above. and its! flesh an holds a high rank.” There are,several kinds of oatmeal. One is known as round-catmeal: it consists: of the oats divested of the husk and ground into a'very'toarde powder. Another is” Robinson’s Patent Groats, which consist of the finest part of ‘the oat-flour,'all husk, and the outer and harder ‘part of ‘thé grin being rethoved. ‘‘Round oatmiedl”, varies a goo deal in quality: the better'’.sorts have the outer surface of the oats of which they are composed rubbed off by attrition between two stones: |‘ Oatmeal is frequently adulterated with batléy-meal, the difference in price ‘be- tween the two being a great inducement to dishonest traders. . Barley-meal costs only about one Lalf, the price’ of oatmeal. Other substances used for adulterating oatmeal are whiting, plaster ‘of paris, and burnt bones. In consequence of a peculiar quality of the gluten which. the oat contains, oatmeal does not admit of being baked into a light fermented bread. It bas been alleged against oatmeal, that when it is employed as the sole food, ‘paste. oatmeal, * digested and: |: in the body, is capable'of producing a’ 0 force- equal to! 2,489 tons raised one foot high. ° The’ maximuni of work which it- will enable 2° without ‘milk or animal diet, it causes heat and. irritability of the skin, aggravates skin diseases, and sometimes gives rise to boils. Dr. Pereira, however, states that this charge has been made without sufficient grounds. At all events, it is very rarely that circumstances render necessary for any length of time such an exclusive con- sumption of oatmeal. ‘ Oatmeal Bannocks,—Rub half an ounce of fresh butter into two and a half pounds of Scotch oatmeal, and stir briskly in as much lukewarm water as will make it into a stiff Sprinkle some oatmeal on the pastry- board, and spread the mixture out into a round eake, about half an inch thick and four inches in diameter. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Probable cost, 1s. oe ; Oatmeal Gruel.—Mix a table-spoenful of oatmeal very smoothly with a little cold water. Pour upon it a pint of boiling water, stir it well, then let it stand for a few minutes to settle... Pour it back very gently into the sauce- pan; so as to leave undisturbed the sediment at the bottom of the gruel. Let it simmer, stirring occasionally and skimming it care- fully. It may be sweetened and flavoured with wine and spice, or be mixed with a little beer | and grated ginger, or, if preferred, a little salt only may be put in. Dry toast or biscuits may be served with it. Time, a quarter of an | hour to simmer. Probable cost,1d. Sufficient for one person. . Oatmeal Gruel (another way).— See Gruel, a an Spe ads 5 1 Oatmeal Hasty Pudding.— Mix atable- spoonful of flour, a table-spoontal of oatmeal, and‘a pinch of ‘salt smoothly with four table- Spoo! ‘of cold milk. Stir these gradually into a pint of boiling milk, and beat the mix- ture with a fork until it is quite smooth and free from lumps. Let it boil quickly for four or five minutes, pour it on small'-plates, and serve hot. Send cream and sugar, or treacle, to table in a tureen. When the Scotch: or coarse oatmeal is used, it should be soaked all night in a little cold water, then added gradually If preferred the flour may be omitted al- together and oatmeal only may be used. Time to boil the pudding, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for two persons. vo Oatmeal Porridge.—Put some water in a saucepan on the fire. Let it boil quickly, then throw in a pinch of salt. Sprinkle some oatmeal into the boiling water with the left hand, and at the same time beat it briskly with a forkiheld'in thé right:to keep it'from’ getting into: lumps. "When. the porridge is sufficiently” thick, draw the pan back a little, put on the lid, and simmer gently till wanted, or about twenty minutes. ‘Treacle, cream, milk, sugar, or butter may be eaten with it. The.quantity of oatmeal will depend upon the taste of those who. are to eat the porridge. Some people. like it, very thick, and others quite thin.. Probable cost, 1d. per plateful (see Porridge, Oatmeal). oi Oil.—Under this name, as well as those of butter, fat, lard, suet, and grease, we have a OLD ( 464 ) OLI substance largely made use of as food. The following table, for which we are indebted to the learned compiler of the Catalogue of the Food Collection now at Bethnal Green Museum, shows the quantities of oil or fat in 100 Ibs. of the more common articles of food :— Vegetable Food. Potatoes . ‘ F ‘ c 0-2 Wheat Flour . ‘ - : a AZ Barley Meal . A ; : . 03 Oatmeal . ‘5 ‘ . &7 Indian Meal . a v7 Rye. 3 ~ s 1:0 ‘Peas ‘ a i 5 ‘ 2-0 Rice. 7 ‘ 3 ‘ 3 0-7 Beans . s 2:0 Cocoa. % . 50°0 Lentils . ‘ Si 2:0 Buckwheat . . 1:0 ‘Tea . * 2 4:0 Coffec n - _ 12:0 Animal Food. Milk 5 . 7 A 23°5 Pork . 5 ‘i : 50-0 ‘Veal ‘i 7 ‘ ‘ 16:0 Beef e ; ‘ 30-0 Mutton 40-0 Fish 70 Cheese. % 3 Old Currant Sauce, for Sucking- Pig, Venison, &c. — Boil two ounces of picked and clean currants and three cloves in a quarter of a pint of water for five minutes; add an ounce of fresh butter, a quarter of a pint of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and two glasses of port. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire until it boils, then take out the cloves, and serve im- mediately. Time, a quarter of an hour. Pro- bable cost, 2d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Olio.—An olio is a Spanish dish, and con- sists of three or four different kinds of meat and vegetables stewed and served together. The following is a simple recipe:—Truss a chicken for boiling, brown it lightly in a little hot butter, then drain it, and put it into a saucepan with a pound and a half of mutton, a pound and a half of veal, and a pound of good rump-steak, all slightly browned. Add a pound of streaky bacon, and pour in as much ‘boiling water as will cover the whole. Simmer gently for an hour, then add half a head of celery, a bunch of parsley, a dozen young onions, half a dozen carrots and turnips, and a pint of green peas, if they are in season, and boil gently until the vegetables are cooked enough. Salt and pepper must be added as required, and to go } a small clove of garlic, if the flavour is liked. | It is better to take out the bacon before the meat is served. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 7s. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Olio of Vegetables.—Slice half a dozen carrots, turnips, and onions, and throw them into boiling water slightly salted. Let them boil a quarter of an hour, then put with them two heads of cabbage cut into halves, and two pounds of potatoes, and boil all together until they are soft. Drain them from the water, and mince them finely. Mix with them half a pound of spinach, a little salt and pepper, an ounce and a half of fresh butter, and a quarter of a pint of cream. Cover the saucepan closely, and stew the vegetables gently for halfan hour. Before serving, thicken them by: stirring in with them a piece of butter rolled inflour. The vegetables may be varied according to the season. Green peas, lettuces, cucumber, spring onions, spinach, &c., may be cooked in the same way. Probable cost, according to the vegetables used. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Olive Oil.—The principal oil used as food, obtained from the vegetable kingdom, is that of the olive. ‘ Provence oil, the produce of Aix, is the most esteemed. Florence oil is the virgin oil expressed from the ripe fruit soon after being gathered; it is imported in flasks sur- rounded by a kind of network, formed by the leaves of a monocotyledonous plant, and packed in half chests; it is that used at table under the name of salad oil.” Olive Pie, Beef.—Make a good. force- meat of equal parts of suet and finely-grated bread-crumbs, with plenty of finely-minced parsley, a little pepper, salt, and grated nut- meg, and the well-beaten yolk of an egg. Cut thin slices four inches long and two wide from the inside. of a fillet of beef. Spread a layer of the forcemeat upon each slice, and roll it up securely. Place the rolls side by side in a deep pie-dish, and pile them high in the centre. Pour half a pint of gravy over them, line the edges of the dish with good crust, place.ja cover of the same on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. If it is wished the forcemeat can be omitted, and a small piece of fat put inside the rolls instead; the meat will then require seasoning with pepper and salt. A table-spoonful of ketchup and a table-spoonful of wine will improve the gravy. Time, about an hour and a quarter to bake the pie. Pro- bable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six persons. Olive Pie, Veal.—Line the edges of a pie-dish with good puff-paste. Out two pounds of the fillet of veal into thin slices a quarter of an inch thick, four inches long, and two wide. Make a forcemeat with four ounces of minced veal, four ounces of finely-shred suet, four ounces of grated bread-crumbs, three table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a tea-spoon- ful of mixed sweet herbs, four drachms of salt, two drachms of pepper, two drachms of pow- dered macé, two drachms of grated lemon-rind, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Season the slices of veal with a little pepper and salt, place a slice of fat bacon upon each, and a little of the forcemeat, and roll them up neatly and securely. Make the forcemeat which remains into balls. Place these amongst the olives in a pie-dish, pour half a pint of nicely-seasoned gravy over them, line the edges of the dish with a good crust, place a cover of the same over the top, brush the pie with beaten egg, and bake in a good oven.’ The addition of a table- spoonful of lemon-juice and a glass of sherry, , or a few sliced mushrooms, would greatly im- prove the gravy. This pie is good either cold or hot. Time, an hour anda half to bake. OLI ( 465 ) OLL Probable cost, 4s, 6d. Sufficient for five. or six persons. Olive Sauce, for Ducks, Fowls, Beef- steaks, &c.—Take four ounces of fine olives. Remove the stones by cutting the fruit round and round in ribbons, in the same way that wpples are pared. By this means they will be the same shape when done that they were at frst. Throw them into boiling water for three or four minutes, then drain them, and put them into cold water to soak until the salt taste is extracted. Drain them, and simmer them gently in three-quarters of a pint of good brown vy. Serve very hot. A cut lemon should be sent to table with this sauce, so that a little of the juice may be squeezed in if the addition is approved. Time to simmer, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Oliver’s Biscuits.—Put two ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan with a quarter ofa pint of milk, and stir over a gentle fire until the butter is melted. Add a pinch of salt anda dessert-spoonful of yeast, then mix in very smoothly three-quarters of a pound of fine flour. Knead the mixture well, wrap it in a warmed cloth, put it into a bowl, and place it on a warm hearth for a quarter of an hour. Roll it out eight or nine times, leaving it at last a quarter of an inch thick. Stamp it into biscuits, with an ‘ordinary cutter, prick these well with a fork, and bake them upon tins, in a moderate oven, until the biscuits are lightly browned, say for about half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Olives.—Olives are the fruit of the olive- tree, and are imported to this country from France, Spain, and Italy. The Italian olives are the most highly-esteemed. They are used for dessert, or handed. round between the courses | as a whet to the appetite, and also to clear the OLIVES. palate. Choose them green and ‘firm, and if they are too salt let them soak for a tittle while in cold water. Olives should never be aliowed to remain uncovered in the bottle, or their appearance will be spoilt. 30—n.z. Olives (a la Reine).—Boil two pounds of mealy potatoes, and mix them very smoothly with six ounces of fine flour and two ounces of fresh butter. Roll the paste out, and stamp it into rounds a quarter of an inch thick and four inches in diameter. Put a small piece of cold roasted beef or veal in the middle of each round, moisten the edges with a little cold water, and draw the paste up into a ball. the olives in hot fat until they are lightly browned all over, drain the fat from them, and serve on a hot dish. Send good brown gravy to table in « tureen. Time, about five minutes to fry the olives. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Olives, Beef.—Cut a couple of pounds of rump-steak into very thin slices, about four inches long and two inches broad. Haveready a nice forcemeat made of bread-crumbs, suet, parsley, herbs, egg, and plenty of pepper and salt. Put a little forcemeat on each piece of steak, roll it up tightly, fasten it with a small skewer or piece of string, dip the rolls into egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat until they are slightly browned. Drain the fat away, and stew them for about half an hour in a pint or rather less of stock. If the stock is very poor, a quarter of a pound of gravy beef will be required. Just before serving, thicken the gravy with a little flour, and add some ketchup, or three dessert-spoonfuls. of sherry or port. Time, five minutes to fry. Sufficient for six persons. Cost, 3s., Olives, Beef (another way).—sSce Beef Olives. . Olives, Duck with (sce Duck with Olives). Olives, Preserving of.—Olives intended for preservation are gathered before they are ripe. The object of pickling them is to remove their bitterness and preserve them green by impregnating them with brine. To effect this various plans are adopted. The fruit being gathered is placed in alye composed of one part of quicklime to six of ashes of young wood sifted. It is left for half a day, and is then put into fresh water, which is renewed every twenty-four hours. From this the fruit is transferred to a brine of common salt dissolved in water, to which some aromatic herbs have been added. Olives will in this manner keep good for twelve months. Olives, Veal.—Proceed as for beef olives, substituting veal for beef. Place a thin slice of fat bacon or ham, of the same size and shape as. the veal made with olives, roll them up naar, brush them over with egg, dip them in bread- crumbs, roast them on a lark-spit, and serve on w hot dish with brown gravy and mush- rooms poured over them. Instead of being roasted, they may be stewed in a pint of veal stock, thickened with butter and flour, and garnished with beet-root or cucumber. Time, three-quarters of an hour to roast; ' one -hour to stew. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. ; Olla Podrida.—This is a Spanish national dish, consisting of. several kinds of meat cut into small pieces and stewed with a variety of OME vegetables’ It is ‘much’ in favour with ‘the oor, and is often kept’ so long that its odour and flavour both ‘become ‘highly offensive, thence its name—olla podrida signifying putrid mess (see also Olio), ge Ac Omelet. —An omelet isa simple, whole- some, inexpensive dish, but yet one in the pre- paration of which cooks frequently fail, owing to.ignorance of three or four important details. The flavouring may be varied indefinitely, but the process is always the same. In making an omelet care should be taken, first, that the fry- ing-pan is quite dry.and‘hot. The best way to ensure this is to put a small quantity of fat into the pan, let it boil, then pour it away, wipe the pan out with’a cloth, and put in fresh fat. Second, the fat in which the omelet is to be fried should be’ very gently heated. Unless this-is done, the fat will be browned, and the colour of the omelet will be spoilt. Third, the number of eggs should not’ be large. It is better to make two or three small omelets than one very large one.’ The ‘best’ omelets’ are made with no more than six eggs.’ Fourth, the omelet pan should not be washed, it'should be ‘scraped and wiped dry with a cloth.’ If washed it is probable that the next omelet fried in it will be a failure. Fifth, a very small quantity only of, salt should be put in: Salt keeps the eggs from rising. ‘As to the method of preparation, see Omelet, Plain, and Principles of Cookery, p. iii. Be 3 Recipes for the following omelets, in addition to those on this and, the following. page, will b found under their respective headings:—. .« » _ ALMOND, ,, Rum. ,- Bacon o&8 Ham |’ SALmMon : . Curesz ~ Savocry (See Prin- | Ham CIPLEs p. iii). i: Jam, ol. BWeer (See: PRIN- Kwneys . 4 CIPLES p. iv). | OvysrExs:. © SwEeEt-HERB Porato'. Omelet (4 1a Célestine).—Mix two eggs very smoothly with. two ounces of dried flour. Adda small pinch ,of salt, two table-spoonfuls | of powdered sugar, and half a-pint of goed milk.. ‘Dissolve an ounce of butter in a hot frying-pan, pour in two table-spoonfuls of the batter, and let it, spread all over the pan. When firm, put a tea-spoonful of good jam and a dessert-spoonful of rich custard in the middle of the omelet, fold it over, and roll it round and round. - Arrange’ the ‘omelets neatly-on ‘a hot dish, ‘sift a little powdered sugar over them, and serve immediately. Thes¢ omelets are sometimes: made with beaten egg and ‘sugar only. Time, three or four. minutes to fry. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. » Omelet (aux fines herbes).—Break six eggs into.a basin. Beat them lightly, and mix with them a small pinch of salt and pepper, a heaped tea-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, and half a tea-spoonful of minced onions, cloves, or sha- lots. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter into a hot frying-pan, over a- gentle’ fire. Pour-in the-mixture, and -proceed’as already described. Omelets may ‘be extensively varied. ‘A little ( 466 ) OME minced ham, or cooked vegetables, or fish sauce, or jam, may be put in either with the eggs or placed in their centre when they are partially ‘cooked, and the omélet should then ‘be’ named after the peculiar flavouring. Time to fry, four or five minutes. Probable cost, 8d.“ Sufficient for two or three persons. ° : Omelet, Cooking an.—‘ Where is the man or woman cook,’ remarks M. Soyer, ‘‘ but say they know how to make an omelet, and that to perfection? But this is rarely the case. It is related of Sarah, the Duchess of Marlborough, that no one could cook a ‘ fraise,’ as it was then called, for the great duke but herself. The great point is, if in an iron pan, it should be very clean and free from damp, which sometimes comes out of the iron when placed on the fire. The best’ plan is to put it on the fire with a little fat, and let it get quite hot, or until the fat burns; remove it, and wipe it clean with a dry cloth, and then you will make the omelet to perfection.” . Omelet, Indian.—Break six eggs into a basin.. Beat them slightly, then flavour them with a table-spoonful .of young mint-leaves, finely-minced, and half. a table-spoonful of either chopped onions, cloves, or leeks, Add half a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt-spoonful of cayenne, and a table-spoonful of cream. Fry the omelet .in the ustial .way,:being careful to keep it well together,’ so that it may be.as thick as possible. Time to fry, six minutes. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for three persons. Omelet, Onion.—Cut a large Spanish onion into: dice, and fry these’ in-a little hot butter until they. are.tender without. :being browned. Drain them from: the fat, and mix with them half a dozen: eggs:slightly beaten. Add a pinch of salt, two pinches of pepper, and a small portion of grated nutmeg, and fry the. omelet according to the directions already given. White sauce may be served with this dish. Time, five dr six minutes to fry the omelet. Probable cost, 9d.’ Sufficient for three persons. ; Omelet-pan (sce illustration accompanyi the article, deca or Ham Omelet). Erenore Omelet, Plain.—The following recipe is by the often-quoted M. Soyer: ‘“ Break four eges into a basin, add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, ‘and beat them well up with a fork. Put into the frying-pan an ounce and a half of butter, lard, or oil; place it on the fire, and when hot pour in the. eggs, and keep’ on mix- ‘ing them quickly with a spoon till they are delicately set; then let them slip to the edge of the pan, laying hold by the handle, and raising '|.it slantwise, which will give an elongated form to the omelet; turn in the edges, let it rest a moment to set, turn it over on a dish, and serve. It ought to be of a rich yellow colour, done to a nicety, and as light and delicate as possible. Two table-spoonfuls of. milk, and one ounce of the crumb of bread, cut into thin \SHicos, may be added.” o Omelet, Potatoes.—Mash: two ounces of mealy potatoes, and mix with them four OME ( 467 ) ONT frosh egbs, ‘lightly beaten, a 'table-spoonful: of powdéred sugar, half a small nutmeg, grated, the strained juice of a large lemon,’ half a pint of new. milk, and- two ounces of: fresh: butter. Beat the. mixture thoroughly for ten minutes, then fry it over a gentle fire in the, usual, way. Sift powdered sugar over before serving. Time, about eight ‘minutes to fry.. Probable.cost, 10d. Sufficient for three persons... » 2... : Omelet Soufflé.—An’ omelet’ soufilé should be served in the same ‘dish in which it is baked, and should be sent to table with the greatest expedition after it is taken out of the oven, as it falls and grows heavy very quickly. Break half a dozen fresh eggs into separate bowls. Whisk four of the yolks, and mix with them a tea-spoonful of dry flour, three table- spoonfuls of finely powdered sugar, a small pinch of salt, and any flavouring that may be preferred, such as grated nutmeg, lemon or orange rind, vanilla, &c. Butter the soufflé- pan, to keep the omelet from sticking to it, whisk the whites of the six eggs to a firm froth, mix them lightly with the yolks, pour the mixture into the‘pari, and bake in 4 quick d¥en.. ‘When it is well risen and brightly browned on‘ the top, the’ omelet is‘ done enough. Sift a little sugar ‘over’ it very expeditiously, and’ serve. Some cooks put a hot flannel round the pai to prevent its cooling onthe way to the dining- room. Time to bake a4 quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two or three persons. SP i te ‘Omelet Soufflé, Moulded.—Take four fresh eggs, and break the yolks and whites into separate basins. Beat the yolks -well, and mix with thent two table-sptonfuls ‘ of ‘powdered sugar, a small pinch of salt, three macaroons finely-crumbled, a téa-spoonful of finely-minced candied-p#el; and. 4” dessert-spoonful of arrow- root. When these ingredients’ are thoroughly and smoothly mixed, add the whites- of the eggs beaten ‘to.a firm froth. Pour the mix- ture into'a well-buttered, simply-marked mould, ke a apt at ae - which’ should ‘bée so Jarge that tho. oniélet will no moré than half fill it, and. bake in a mode- rate oven. ‘When the. sonfilé is set-and lightly browried it is ‘done enough. : Turn it out, sift powdered ‘sugar over it, and serve'as expe- ditiously as possible. Time to bake, a quarter ef:an:hour. * Probable cost, 8d. two-:or'three persons. “+ fie Se Omelet, with Cheese.—Prepare the eggs as‘ for a plain- omelet. Mixwith them. two ounces ‘of finely-grated Parmesan cheese, a small pinch of salt, and two pinches of pepper. Fry the omelet in the usual: way, and- before folding it-over~strew an. ounce of gruyére cheese ‘finely-minced upon it. *Fold,and serve immediately.-. Time, four or: five minutes to fry... Probable cost, -is. Sufficient ‘for three persons. Bake 3 bod Omelet, with Cheese, Baked.—Beat two, eggs lightly, and: mix with them a small pinch of salt, two pinches of pepper, three table-spoonfuls of néw milk or cream, and two ounces of grated’Parmesan.' Pour the mixtune o Ei, alt 2 - art Le ‘a’ buttered plate, bake’in a quick oven, | _ thei ite deve ieanladiatel ir f xn | peculiar flavour. When young, the onion is serve immediately. Time to bake, fifteen . Sufficient: for | minutes. .. Probable. cost, 4d. or 5d. Sufficient for two persons. 8 , Omelet, with Graviy.—Whisk half a dozen fresh eggs thoroughly, and mix with them a small pinch of salt, two pinches of pepper, a table-spoonful of finely-minced parsley; half:a tea-spoonful of chopped onions, and two, table-spoonfuls of nicely-seasoned | gravy: Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a hot frying-pan overa gentle fire, and fry the omelet in it in the usual way. “Serve it on a‘hot dish with half a pint of good gravy poured round it. -Time to fry, six or seven minutes. Probable cost, 9d." Sufficient for three or four persons. Onion.—This well-known vegetable may be regarded either as a condiment or as an article of real nourishment. By boiling it, is. deprived of much of. its pungent, volatile oil, and becomes agreeable, mild, and nutritious. It is not so.wholesome either fried or roasted. There. .is no.vegetable: about which there is. so much. diversity of opinion as there is. about the onion; some persons liking a little of it in every dish, and others objecting to it entirely. Generally speaking, however, a slight flavouring of onion is an improve- ment to the majority. of made dishes, but it should ‘not be too strong.. The smell which ten LC a . c vty Sey Bae GARLIC, LEEK, ONION.’ arises from the esculent during cooking, and the unpleasant odour it imparts to the breath of those who partake of it, are the principal objections: which are urged against it. ‘The latter ‘may be partially remedied’ ‘by eating a little raw parsley after it. When'onions are used for stuffing, the unpleasant. properties belonging’ to'them ‘would be considerably les- seried if a lemon; freed from the outer rind but covered as thickly as possible with the white skin, were put inthe midst of them, and thrown away when the dish is ready for the table. Onions may, be rendered’ much milder if two or three waters are used in boiling them. Spanish onions are not,so strong: as English, ones, and are generally considered, superior in flayour. The largest are the best. Onions, as well as garlic, shalots, chives, and leeks, contain a prin- ciple called allyle, to which they owe ‘their L ONT ( 468 ) ONI eaten raw, and if is also pickled, and made into a sauce by boiling, in which process much of the allyle is got rid of. It grows to a great size in the south of Europe, and when imported into this country is boiled and eaten with melted butter. Onion and Cabbage.—A slight flavour- ing of onion is a great improvement to red cabbage pickle (see Cabbage, Red, Pickled). Onion and Hggs.—Wash and peel a large Spanish onion. Cut it into slices about @ quarter of an inch in thickness, strew a little salt and pepper over these, and fry them in hot butter until they are tender, without being browned. Take the pieces up with an egg-slice to preserve them whole, drain well from the fat, and place them on w hot dish. Squeeze the juice of two large fresh lemons upon them. Have ready four poached eggs, place these on the onions, and serve imme- diately. Time, twenty minutes altogether. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Onion and Sage Goose Stuffing (see Goose-stuffing, Sage and Onion). Onion and Sage Stuffing for Geese, Duck, or Pork.— Wash, peel, and par- boil three large onions. If a strong flavour of onions is liked, the boiling can be omitted, and the onions used raw; if it is objected to, they maay be boiled in one or two waters. Drain the onions, mince them finely, and mix with them an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, an ounce of butter, a small tea-spoonful of powdered sage, a tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Mix all the ingre- dients thoroughly. The yolk of an egg is sometimes added, but it is oftener omitted. Spanish onions are always to be preferred to the ordinary ones for stuffing. ‘Time to boil the onions, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Se Beef, German (sce German Onion ef). Onion, Chops Stewed with (see Chops Stewed with Onion). Onion, Forcemeat of (see Forcemeat of Onion). Onion Gravy (see-Gravy, Onion). Onion Omelet (see Omelet, Onion). Onion Porridge (a country remedy for a cold in the head).—Peel a large Spanish onion, divide it into four, and put it into a saucepan with half a salt-spoonful of salt, two ounces of butter, and a pint of cold water. Let it simmer gently until it is quite tender, then pour it into a heated bowl, dredge a little pepper over it, and eat it as hot as possible just efore going to bed. Time to boil the onion, about half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Suf- ficient for one person. Onion, Potatoes Mashed with (see Potatoes Mashed with Onion). Onion Sauce.—White onion sauces are generally, served with boiled rabbits, roast mutton, and tripe, or, when superlatively made, with lamb and mutton cutlets. The brown. sauces are excellent with steaks, cutlets, sausages, &c. Onion Sauce, Brown.—Peel and mince two moderate-sized Spanish onions very finely. Fry them in two ounces of dissolved butter until they are lightly browned. Add half a pint of brown gravy mixed smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the sauce over the fire fora few minutes, and serve as hot as possible. Time, six or eight minutes to boil. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Onion Sauce, Brown (another way). Peel two large onions, and cut away the ends. Divide them into thin slices, and lay them in salted water for an hour. Drain them, and fry them in a little butter until they are lightly browned. Pour over them half a pint of good brown sauce, and let them simmer until tender. Add a little more sauce if required. Press them through a sieve. Return the purée to the saucepan, add an ounce of butter and a table-spoonful of glaze, simmer five or six minutes, and serve very hot. A tea-spoonful of dry mustard is sometimes mixed with the above sauce. Time, altogether, two hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Onion Sauce, Brown, Piquant.—Fry the onions as in the last recipe. When they are quite tender, pour over them half a pint of gravy mixed smoothly with a table-spoon- ful of flour, add pepper and salt, if required, a lump of sugar, a dessert-spoonful of tarra- gon vinegar, and « glass of sherry. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire for ten minutes, pass it through a strainer, and serve as hot as possible. A tea-spoonful of dry mustard is sometimes mixed with the above sauce. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. : Onion Sauce, German.—Peel three or four large onions. Cut them into small pieces, and boil. them until tender in as much, good stock as will cover them. Stir in with them, whilst boiling, a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds. Mix two ounces of flour smoothly with two ounces of butter and a little of the hot liquid; add it to the rest, season with pepper and salt, simmer gently over the fire for ten minutes, and serve very hot. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Onion Sauce, White. — Take two Spanish onions or four large ordinary ones. Peel them, slice off the ends, and simmer them in as much cold water as will cover them until tender. Drain the water from them, mince them finely, and put them into a saucepan with a pn of milk mixed smoothly with two ounces of flour and two ounces of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce over the fire for ten or fifteen minutes, and serve it as hot as possible. Time, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six persons. Onion Sauce, White, Common.— Boil the onions until tender.’ Mix with them half a pint of melted butter; add quarter of a ONI ( 469 ) ONI pint of new milk, and a little salt and pepper. Stir the sauce over the fire until it boils, and serve as hot as possible. ‘Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons, Onion Sauce, Young.— Peel half a pint of medium-sized button-onions, and throw them into cold water for half an hour. Boil them until they are tender without being broken, then stir them into half a pint of melted butter; add a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and two table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Serve very hot. Time, about half an hour to boil the onions. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Onion Soubise Sauce.—Soubise sauce is nothing but superlative onion sauce. It is made as follows :—Peel and slice four Spanish onions ; throw them into boiling water for ten minutes, and then into cold water. Put them into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and let them stew very gently until they are tender without being at all browned. Mix three ounces of flour smoothly with a pint of milk, or, if preferred, half a pint of chicken broth, and half a pint of milk or cream may be used. Add this to the onions, and simmer ‘very gently for a quarter of an hour. Press ‘the sauce through a fine hair-sieve, and when wanted for use make it quite hot, without letting it boil again. Probable cost, 10d., if made with milk. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Onion Soup.—Peel half a dozen Spanish onions, and mince them very finely. Fry them in a little fresh butter until they are tender without being browned. Pour over them about three pints of nicely-seasoned stock, add a little cayenne, salt, and pepper, and simmer gently. for twenty minutes. Press the soup through a hair-sieve, and return it to the sauce Grate the crumb of a stale loaf into half a pint of boiling milk or cream, stir this into the soup, and serve very hot. Time, eight or ten minutes to fry the onions. Pro- bable cost, onions, 14d. each. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Onion Soup (another way).— Peel and slice a dozen moderate-sized onions, and put them into a stewpan, with three pints of boiling stock (the liquid in which a leg of mutton has been boiled will answer very well for the purpose), two ounces of lean ham finely minced, a large carrot, a large turnip, a small | parsnip, a few of the outside sticks of a head of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, quarter of an ounce of white pepper, and a little salt. Simmer gently for one hour and a half, then press the soup with thé vegetables through a hair-sieve, and when cold mix in the yolks of three well- beaten eggs, and half a pint of new milk. The soup may be stirred over the fire until quite hot, but it must not boil after the eggs and milk are added. If liked, this soup may be thickened with a table-spoonful of ground rice. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable : cost, 1s., exclusive of the stock. Onion Soup, Brown.—Take about two dozen small silver onions—such as would be used for pickling—peel them carefully, sprinkle a little sugar on them, and fry them till nicely browned in a little hot butter. Pour overthem two pints of clear brown gravy soup nicely seasoned and strongly flavoured with onions. Let all boil up together, and serve very hot. If preferred, this soup may be thickened by stirring into it a table-spoonful of ground rice or flour mixed smoothly with a small quantity of cold water. Time, about ten minutes to brown the onions. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Onion Soup, Maigre.— Mince half a dozen medium-sized onions very finely. Put them into a stewpan over a gentle fire with three ounces of dissolved butter, dredge a little flour over them, and move them about until they are tender and lightly browned. Add two pints of boiling water, and a seasoning of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Beat two eggs briskly for a minute or two, boil the soup, let it cool half a minute, then stir it in amongst the eggs, and serve immediately. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Onion Stuffing for Chicken.— Beat the yolk of an egg thoroughly, and mix with it a table-spoonful of hot vinegar, half a salt- spoonful of powdered thyme, and as much finely-minced parsley as will make it quite thick. Boil a large Spanish onion in three or four waters until it is tender, press it well, mince it finely, and mix it with the vinegar, &c. Add two ounces of boiled pickled pork cut up into small pieces, and a little pepper and salt. A chicken which has been filled with this stuffing should be braised and served with white sauce. Time, one hour to boil the onion. Probable .cost, 4d. Sufficient for one chicken. Onions (4 la Créme).—Peel four medium- sized Spanish onions, and boil them in water slightly salted until they are sufficiently cooked. Drain them on a sieve, and put them into a stewpan with three ounces of butter rubbed smoothly with a table-spoonful of flour, and a little salt and white pepper. Shake the pan constantly, and stir in by degrees half a pint of cream or new milk. Serve the onions on toasted bread, with the sauce poured over. Sufficient for four or five persons. One hour to boil the onions, quarter of an hour to stew them. Cost, with cream, 1s.7d.; with milk, 11d. Onions and Eggs (see Eggs and Onions). Onions Baked (to be served with Roast Mutton, &c.).—Peel three or four medium-sized _ Spanish onions, and boil them in salted water for a quarter of an hour, then throw them -into cold water for half an hour. Drain them well, cut them into slices half an inch in thickness, place them in a single layer in a well-buttered tin, and bake them in a_ quick oven, basting them occasionally with butter, until they are tender and lightly browned. Serve ona hot dish. Probable cost, 6d. Suf- ficient for six or seven persons. ONI (470 ) ONT Bologna Sausage with Onions). " ; Onions, Brown, for Garnishin; Stews.—Cut the two ends from some sma silver onions, and throw them into.boiling water for five minutes. Drain them on an inverted sieve, and when cool take off the outer skins, and put them into a well-buttered sauté-pan, with a little butter and sugar, and fry: them (turning them over once) until they are lightly browned all over... Drain them well, and, ten minutes before they are used, put them into the stew which they are intended to garnish. Time, about ten minutes to brown the onions. Pro- bable cost, 3d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for a dish large enough for five or six persons. Onions, Bullock’s Heart with (sce Bullock's Heart, &e.), ; Onions, Burnt, for Soups and Gravies.—Burnt onions for colouring and flavouring soups and gravies may be bought at most Italian warehouses for about 8d. per pound. A liquid answering very: much the same purpose, thoigh'slightly acid,.may be prepared at home'dnd stored for use. It should be made as follows :—Mince a pound of onions very finely, and. put them into an enamelled saucepan with a pint of boiling water, place them upon the fire, and let them remain for four or fiye. minutes. Add a pound of sugar, | and, simmer, until the syrup is nearly black. Strain it.into a pint of boiling vinegar, stir brigkly fora minute or two, and when cold bottle for use. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 6d. per pint, - Onions, Coloured, for Soup Fla- vouring.—Put: half a:dozen large.onions , into an oven ona tin dish, with equal quantities | of butter and’ sugar: (previously well mixed together) on tl top‘of each. As the mixture dissolves, baste the onions frequently with it; they must not get dry, but they should be black through, ‘yet. not -burnt. A slow ‘oven is re-' quired. For ‘imparting 4 flavour and colour to soups black onions are ‘very ‘valuable: Pro- bable cést, 14d. per pound. ase Se Onions, Cow-heel. Cow-heel Fried, &c.). Onions, Cucumbers Stewed with (see Cucumbers, &c.}. i « Onions, Bologna. Sausage with: (see Fried. with (se Onions for Seasoning Sauces and | Made Dishes.—Mince three or four onions very finely. Put them into a saucepan, cover them with cold water, and let them boil until quite ‘tendér.’ Press them with their liquid through ;a hair sieve, when they are ready. for ‘use. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 5c ; Onions, Fowl with (se Fowl..with Onions). i EOS 2s Onions, Glazed, for Garnishin Beef, &c.—Take a dozen freshly-gather large-sized onions, cut @ thin slice off each end, and throw them into boiling water ford quarter of an hour. Take off the outer’ skin, scoop a’ small piece out of. the middle of each dniéa, | and put a quarter of a tea-spoonful of powdéred | sugar into the empty spaces thus formed. Put’ | ment. two or ‘three, slices. of butter in a, stewpan. Arrange the onions side. by.side in it, and: place it on. the.fire, turning the onions two or three times that they may. be equally coloured all over. When nicely browned, moisten them with half a pint of good strong stock, cover the saucepan closely, and simmer very gently ahtil the ‘sauce is’ reduced to glaze. “Basté the onions frequently whilst the sauce is simmering, and keep them warm ‘until wanted'for use. Time, one’ hour. ‘Probable cost, 6d. “ Shfficient? to garnish a moderate-sized piete'of beef! 4 Onions, How. and Where to Keep. —Onions should be fastened upon .ropes, and hung from the ceiling of. cool, ainy.apart,- They should not be hung in the store- room, on account of their unpleasant. odour. Onions, Pickled.—Onions, like all other pickles, are considered more wholesome, though less handsome, when, prepared at home, than wher bought at the warehouses. Home-made pickled onions ,are besides quite as expensive. The: small silver onions. are generally uged. for ‘pickling, .and should. be. obtained as soon. as possible after they are. harvested,,.as , they are then:in, the best condition. This -will be about.the. middle of August,. .Peel the onions -until ithey\look clear, being ‘careful, not to, cut the bulb. . If,a little. warm. water be, poured over them the task will not be, quite ;so ‘dis- agreeable... Throw them.as they are peeled. into a bowl of white-wine vinegar, and when they are. all finished strain, the vinegar, into an enamelled stewpan, with an ounce of whole peppercorns, a dessert-spoonful of salt, and an inch of whole ginger to each quart. Boil, gently for five minutes, let the liquidicool, and pour ‘it over the onions. It must be. boiled; again ‘twice ‘before: the onions are fastened .wp, and should ‘be sufficient:ito cover them. entirely. Put:the pickle into jars, cork securely, and cover ‘them -with bladder, then store for -uge.:'' If it ‘is preferred, instead:of boiling the vinegar three times; the onions’ may be ithrown: into; itywhen ‘boiling, and:‘simmered, gently for two minutes. Probable cost, onions, 1s. or 1s. 6d: per gallon. . Onions, Pickled (another ‘way).—Pre- pare the onions as in the last récipe, but instead of throwing them when peeled into vinegar, ‘throw them into brine sufficiently strong to bear an egg,, Let, them, remain in this until the next day, then drain them, and’ lay them between two cloths to dry. . Boil as much vinegar as will cover them with half a tea- spoonful of coriander seed, an inch. of whole ginger, and an ounce of peppercorns #o each quart. After the liquid has reached the boiling point, let it simmer gently for. three minutes, and pour it out, to cool. Put the. onions into jars, divide the spices amongst them, and, cover them entirely. with; the. cooled vinegar. ‘ Cork securely, and cover the. corks: with bladder. Store for.use.. This:pickle should not be used until it has been kept a month,. Probable cost, oniens, 1s. to 1s. 6d. per gallon..,,,. Onions, Pickled (an easy method).—Peel the onions’ according to the’ dirdctions: already given. ' (See‘the last recipe but Hee Put them as they are done into wide-mouthed glass bottles ONI ( 471 ) ONT or earthen. jars, place layers. of spice amongst’ them, allowing an ounce. of whole pepper, a tea-spoonful of mustard seed,.and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of coriander seed to each quart of onions. Cover them with cold vinegar, and cork ,seourely. As the vinegar is absorbed by the onions more should be. added, so. ag’ to keep them.well covered. Store, in a cool, dry place.. .Probable ,cost of onions, 1s, to 1s. 6d. per gallon... , SL aamSoce ve aot Onions; Pickled,: with Cucumbers. —Put a moderate-sized onion with three cucum- bers. Peel arid slice them, and take the seeds out of the cucumbers."-Put the slices in a colander.» Sprinkle salt ‘over them, and leave them twenty-four ‘hours to drain, then place | them ina large earthen jar, and pour over them sufficient boiling: vinegar to cover them. Tie a bladder over themj.and.place the jar near the fire. Boil up the vinegar every day, pour it upon the : pickle, and. cover the jar, instantly, so that none of the steam may escape., Repeat this until the cucumbers are green; and add an ounce of whole pepper.to every quart of vinegar, the | last time of boiling. Store.in a cool, dry place. The vinegar of this pickle is excellent for salads. Time, four or five days. Probable cost-of onions, ‘13d.-each; cucumbers, 1s. ot 4 Onions, Plain, Boiled. — Peel half a dozen medium-sized Spanish onions, and boil them gently for five or six minutes in a little salt and ‘water. Drain them on a sieve, and’ throw them into cold'water for an hour. Put them into a saucepan with plenty ‘of cold water, and let them simmer gently until they ‘are ‘tender quite through, without‘ being broken. Serve on a hot dish, with alittle melted | ‘butter poured over them. Time, medium'sizéd Spanish onions, an hour and a half to: boil. ‘Probable cost, 1}d. éach. Sufficient for five or | six persons. eat : aaieel Onions, Sliced and Fried. — Onions, cut into thin slices, fried in a little hot butter | until they are browned, without being burnt, | then mixed: with flour, and afterwards pressed | through a fine sieve, are excellent for flavour- ing and colouring brown soups and, sauces. Onions, Spanish, and Beet-root, to Pickle.—Take equal quantities of- Spanish onions and'beet-root. Slice the onions, and lay them in brine for twenty-four hours, then drain them well. Wash the beet-root gently ; if the skin or fibres are. broken the colour will be spoilt. Boil it for an hour, and leave it also until the next day. Peel'the roots; and cut them into slices. Place alternate layers of beet-root anid onion in wide-mouthed earthen jars, pour over them vinegar which has been boiled with spices and ‘allowed to cool, Cover with bladder, and store for use. Two or three drops of eochineal will improve the colour of this pickle, and will not harm it. Beet-root, time to boil, one hour. : Onions, Spanish, Baked. —.Wash and trim, without pécling, half a- dozen , Spanish |. onions of medium size, Put them intaa sauce- pan, cover them with water slightly salted, and Jet them simmer very gently for about an hour. Take them up, drain them, wrap each onion in a: Beparate piece of.|paper, ;put,them into. a moderate oven, and let them, xemain.until quite tender. Before dishing them, remove the.skins, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them,.and pour half a pint of good gravy into the dish with them. .Time to bake, about' an hour and a half. .' Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient. for’ five orsix persons. .. © |) 0". ; Onions, Spanish, Pickled. — Take some moderate-sizedand perfectly sound Spanish onions, cut them in. slices, and put, them : for twenty-four hours in a brine sufficiently strong to float an egg. Drain them. well, lay them in wide-mouthed .earthen. jars,.and put a sliced capsicum, four cloves,.and an ounce of whole pepper with every three onions. Nearly fill the jar with vinegar, place the lid on it, and set it ina large pan of cold water. Place this upon the fire;.and simmer géntly until the onions -are ‘soft. Add a little more vinegar, if required ; cover the jars’ closely, and store the:pickle in a cool, dry place. Time, an ‘hour and a half: to ‘simmer: ‘Probable cost of onions, 13d. cach. Onions, Stewed.—Peel and trim half a dozen Spanish onions of medium size, but be careful not to cut the tops too short, or the bulb will to, pieces whilst stewing. ‘Blanch them in boiling water for a minute or two, then drain them, and put them side by, side in a saucepan sufficiently large. to hold them all in one layer. Sprinkle ‘a little salt and pepper over them, and. place upon each-onion, half.an ounce, of utter, mixed smoothly. with, half a,tea-spoon- ful. of, .powdered sugar... Place, them .over 4 gentle. fire, and Jet.:them: remain until lightly browned, then cover with good brown gravy, ‘and ‘simmer ‘them wntil tender. Serve as hot as possible--on toast; with ‘the:igravy -poured round: them. If liked, the gravy:-may be ‘flavoured with tomatd-satice, or withca finely: minced gherkin and a glass of claret. A pleas- ing: variety , too, may be secured by taking out ‘the middle of each onion, stuffing it with nicely-seasoned forcemeat, and'then stewing in ‘gravy as: before:. .Time to stew the onions, about an hour and‘half. ‘Probable cost of onions, ‘144. each.” Sufficient for five or six persons. _ Onions, Stuffed.—-Take three moderate- sized Spanish onions, Peel:and trimthem neatly, butibe careful not to out off too much of the tops, for fear the, onions fall to, pieces., Scoop out the hearts of the onions, mince them finely, and mix with them four ounces of lean beef or pork and one ounce of ‘fat’ bacon (chopped: small), a table-spoonful ‘bf chopped parsley, 'three table- spoonfuls of “grated bread-crumbs, two ounces of butter, a little salt and cayenne, and the yolk of an eggs Well beaten.’ Stuff the onions with the meat, and ‘put them into a saucepan side by “side, and with them half a pint of good gravy, two, apples, pared, cored, and chopped smali,,, Stew the onions until they are perfectly tender, and turn them ovor once or twice, so that they. may be thoroughly cooked all through. Thicken the sauce with a little flour and. butter, add ‘pepper and salt and. a .table-spoonful of brandy, and serve the onions pn a hot. dish with the gravy poured, round. them. Tf the acid flavour. is liked, the strained juice of a large fresh lemon may be poured over the ONI onions a few minutes before they are taken off the fire. Time, three hours to stew the onions. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for three persons. Onions, Stuffed (another way).—Prepare three or four large Spanish onions as in the last recipe. Scoop out the centres, making a hole fully an inch and a half across. Put in each one a mutton kidney, and place the onions side by side in asaucepan. Sprinkle a little salt and cayenne over half a pint of good brown gravy. Place the pan over a gentle fire, and let it remain until the onions are quite tender. Serve as hot as possible. Time to simmer the onions, two and a half or three hours. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for three persons. Onions, Stuffed and Baked. — Peel two large Spanish onions, partly boil them, and leave them on a sieve to drain until nearly cold. Then cut the onions an inch and a half across the top, and scoop out the centre. Have ready a stuffing made with one ounce of finely-grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese, the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs minced very finely, one ounce ‘of butter, three ounces of bread-crumbs, one salt-spoonful of salt, and half that quantity of pepper. Mix all well together with a spoonful or two of milk. Fil up the onions with the forcemeat, brush them over with egg and bread- crumbs, and bake them until nicely browned. Serve on a hot dish, with brown gravy poured vver them. Time, half an hour to boil the onions; three-quarters of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for four persons. Onions, White, for Garnishing Stewed Chicken or Veal. — Take a dozen freshly-gathered silver onions of a mode- rate size, cut a thin slice off each end, and blanch them in boiling water for a quarter of an hour. Drain them well, dry them in a cloth, take off the outer skins; put them into a stewpan with a salt-spoonful of salt, a salt- spoonful of sugar, and as much water as will cover them. Let them simmer gently until they are tender, without being at all broken. Drain them, and, a few minutes before they are served, put them into the stew which they are intended to garnish. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to simmer. Pro- bable cost of onions, 3d. Sufficient for a dish of veal for three or four persons. Onions, with Beef-steak, &c.—Take two large Spanish onions. Remove a thin piece off each end, peel off the outer skins, and cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Place an ounce of butter or good dripping in a saucepan, let it melt, then put with it a pound of steak, divided into pieces a little thinner than for broiling. Brown these in the butter, add a little pepper and salt, the sliced onions, three ounces more of butter, but no liquid ; cover the saucepan closely, and simmer as gently as possible till done. Arrange the steak neatly in the centre of a hot dish, boil up the onion gravy sauce with a table-spoonful of walnut ketchup, pour it over tho meat, and serve immediately, Chickens or rabbits are sometimes cooked im the same way. Time, ( 472) em, and pour upon them |, ORL about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Onions, with Grated Cheese (a Ger- man recipe).—Wash and peel three or four large sound onions, cut them into slices fully half an inch thick, and place them side by side in a single layer in a well-buttered baking-dish. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, place them in a quick oven, and let them remain until tender ; strew each piece of onion thickly with grated cheese, and return the dish again to the oven for a few minutes until the cheese has dissolved. Lift the slices carefully upon a hot dish, and serve immediately. A little mus- tard should be eaten with them. Time, half anhour to bake. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Orange.—Oranges come into season at the ‘beginning of winter, but they can rarely be obtained sufficiently sweet to be agreeable before Christmas. The St. Michael and Malta oranges are the most commonly used. They appear early, and last all the season. The Tangerine oranges are very small, but sweet, and delicious in flavour. The rind has a very peculiar taste. They come into the market. later than the others, and are soon over. The Seville orange does not appear until the end of February, and is chiefly used for making mar- malade and wine. There are supposed to be nearly a hundred varieties of oranges in Italy. The orange as a dessert fruit is deservedly popular. The varieties most in favour for this purpose are the China, Portugal, and Maltese. The orange is also employed in confectionery, not. only when ripe, but when green and not larger than a pea. It assists in the formation of several liqueurs and conserves, either alone or com- bined with sugars, wines, or spirits, and either the pulp, or skin, or both, are used for these purposes. In ‘cooking it is employed to aroma- tise a number of dishes. Orange and Almond Ice (see Almond and Orange Ice). . Orange and Batter Pudding.—Mix four table-spoonfuls of flour smoothly and gradually with half a pint of cold milk; add two fresh eggs, thoroughly whisked, a pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of moist sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of oiled butter. Pour the batter into a buttered basin which it will quite fill, dredge a little flour over it, tie it in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling until it is done enough. If more water must be put in, let it be boil- ing. Let the pudding stand two or three minutes after it is taken out of the water before it is turned out of the mould. Place it on a hot dish, and before sending to table empty a half-pound jar of orange marmalade over it. The batter is better if made two or threo hours before it is wanted. Time to boil, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for four persons. Orange and Lemon Candied Rings for Garnishing.— When orange jelly = punch is being e, and the orange rinds are not used, it is good economy (if trouble is not consideration) to candy the latter in rings, ORA ( 473 ) ORA and store them in atin box until: wanted for garnishing sweet dishes. Cut the oranges into rounds a quarter of an inch thick, remove the pulp without breaking the ring, and leave a narrow rim of white on the yellow part. Throw these rings into salt and water, leave them until the following day, and then boil them in fresh water until they are tender. Lift them carefully out, drain on an inverted sieve, and when cool dip them into brandy. Make @ syrup with half a pound of loaf sugar and half a pint of the water in which the rings were boiled to each half a dozen oranges. Boil it until clear; dip the rings into it three times, and again drain them. Heat the syrup twice a day, and dip the rings into it whilst it is hot, but not boiling, and continue this until they are candied. Store in tin boxes, arranging the rings in single layers between sheets of writing- paper. They will keep any length of time in a cool dry place. The sugar which remains is excellent for flavouring. Time, half an hour to boil them in fresh water; to be dipped in hot syrup twice a day until they are candied. Orange and Lemon Juice for Colds (Invatip CooxEry)—Orange or lemon-juice, strained and boiled with an equal weight of loaf sugar, and then bottled and corked closely, will prove an agreeable and valuable addition to gruel and other warm drinks which are required for invalids. Time, fifteen minutes to boil. Sufficient, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice to half a pint of gruel. Orange A ppie Jelly. — In preparing apple jelly a pleasing variety may be made as follows :—Boil the apple-juice and the sugar in the usual way for about ten minutes, and then throw in with them some slices of orange a quarter of an inch thick. The peel may be left on, but the pips should be carefully re- moved. Let all cook together, and when the apple jelly is potted, put two or three slices of orange into each jar. Time, about three- quarters of an hour to boil the jelly. Sufficient, one sliced orange for a pint of apple jelly. Orange Biscuits.—Beat four ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Rub the rinds of two Seville oranges with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, until the yellow part is all taken off. Crush the sugar to powder, and mix it with the butter; add a small pinch of salt, four ounces of dried flour, the well-beaten yolks of four eggs, two ounces of candied orange-peel, cut into thin shreds, and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Pour the mixture into small buttered moulds, sift pow- dered sugar over the biscuits, and bake in a slow oven for about ten minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Orange Biscuits (another way)—To be used as a Stomachic.—Boil the rinds of Seville oranges in two or three waters, until they are quite tender and most of the bitterness is gone. Drain well, weigh them, mince finely, and pound them in a mortar with an equal weight of powdered sugar; spread the paste out thinly on a dish, and place it in the sun, or in some warm place, to dry. When the upper part is stiff, stamp the mixture out into small shapes, turn these carefully over, and dry the under side. These biscuits should be stored between layers of paper in a tin box. Time, two hours to boil the rinds. Probable cost, oranges, 1d. each. Orange Brandy.—Take the thin rinds of six Seville oranges. Put into a stone jar, and pour over them half a pint of the strained juice of the oranges and two quarts of French brandy. Let them remain for three days, then add a pound and a quarter of loaf sugar— broken, not powdered—and stir the liquid until the sugar is dissolved; let it stand until the next day, strain through filtering paper until quite clear, pour it into bottles, and cork securely ; the longer orange brandy is kept the better it is. This liqueur should be made in March. Probable cost, 1s.,.exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five pints of orange brandy. Orange Brandy (another way).—Put half a dozen whole Seville oranges into a jar, pom over them four pints of French brandy, and et them infuse for twenty-eight days. Filter the liquid until it is quite clear, then put with it ten ounces of loaf sugar in lumps, and stir two or three times a day until the sugar is. dissolved; strain again, put the liquid into bottles, and cork securely. This liqueur will improve with keeping. Probable cost, 10d., ex- clusive of the brandy. Sufficient for two quarts. of orange brandy. Orange Butter.—Blanch one ounce of sweet almonds, and pound them in a mortar to a smooth paste. Mix with them the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, one ounce of pounded and sifted sugar, two ounces of fresh butter, and a spoonful or two of orange-flower water. Rub the butter through a colander, and serve it with sweet or plain biscuits. Time, ten minutes to boil the eggs. Probable cost, 6d- Sufficient for half a pound of biscuits. Orange Cake.—Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, and pound them in a mortar with a little white of egg; mix with them two ounces of powdered sugar, two well-beaten eggs, and the yolks of two hard-boiled ones which have been made smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Slice four ounces of fresh butter into six ounces of flour, add the almond mixture and two or three spoonfuls of milk, enough to make a firm paste. Roll this out in a round form, about a quarter of an inch thick, and ornament the edge with a thick twist, made of the trimmings of the pastry. Bake on buttered paper in a moderate oven until the cake is lightly browned, and when nearly cool spread upon it a mixture made as follows :— Beat thoroughly the yolks of four eggs and the white of one. Rub two ounces of loaf sugar upon the yellow rind of two oranges; crush the sugar to powder, and mix it with the eggs. Add the strained juice of the oranges, and stir the mixture over the fire until it begins to thicken. When it is nearly cool, add two tea-spoonfuls of powdered sugar and the well- whisked whites of two eggs. Before serving, an orange peeled and quartered may be laid upon the cake in the form of a star. This cake ORA ( 474 ) CORA is very good when: made of ordinary pastry. Time, about half. an hour to bake the cake. Probable cost,..1s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons... . Orange Cakes.— Peel some Seville oranges. Weigh the rinds, and boil them in two or three waters until they can be éasily pierced with a fork. Drain the water from them, and pound them in a mortar with double their weight .in powdered: sugar, and the. pulp and juice of the-oranges, which must have been carefully freed from skin and. seeds. Beat the mixture thoroughly; if it is too thick, let it stand a few hours, drop it. upon buttered tins in small rounds, and dry these in a cool oven. Orange cakes should be: kept in layers between sheets of writing-paper, and stored in a cool dry place. Time, two hours to boil the orange rinds. Probable cost, Seville oranges, 1d. or Idd. each. Orange Calf’s Feet Jelly.—Take. one pint of calf’s feet stock, carefully freed from fat and sediment, mix ‘with it half a pint of strained orange-juice, the’' juice ‘of ‘two lemons, the whites and crushed shells of three eggs, the thin rinds of two oranges'‘and one lemon, a dessert-spoonful of isinglass, and four ounces of sugar in lumps; stir these gently over the ‘fire’ until they are well mixed, but as soon as the liquid 'begins to heat, leave off stirring, and let the scum rise undisturbed; let the jelly simmer fifteen minutes after it has reached the boiling point, then draw it to the side of the fire and let it stand to settle fifteen minutes ‘longer ; lift the bead of scum off carefully, and pour the jelly through a tamis until it is quite clear. Take.a damp mould, pour in a little of the jelly to the depth of half an inch, and let it stand in a cool place until it is stiff; arrange the quarters of an orange on this in the form of a star, first freeing them entirely from the thick, white skin; pour the rest of the jelly on them, and set the mould in a cool place. Turn it out carefully before serving. Probable cost: 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a quart mould. ae ; Orange Cardinal.—Peel a large sound St. Michael’s orange very thinly, remove the thick white skin, and cut the fruit into thin slices; remove the pips, place the slices in a bowl, and strew over them a quarter of a pound of pounded and sifted sugar. Put the rind of the orange into a pint of good light wine, and let it infuse for six or eight hours. Strain it. over the. sweetened fruit, and, just before serving, add one bottle of champagne. » times, and put it in a cold place for an hour, At the end of that time roll it out again once or twice, and leave it a little more than an inch thick. Dip a kmife into hot water, and cut the paste tothe size and shape of the dish on which the vol-au-vent is to be served. Mark the cover by making an even incision the third of, an Sufficient ... oYs ( 499 ) PAL inch deep, and an inch from the edge all round, brush it over with yolk of egg, place it ona’ baking-tin, and bake it in a hot oven until it is well risen, and lightly browned.. Draw it out, and lift off the cover with the point of a sharp Imife, scoop out the soft paste frem the inside, and return the vol-au-vent to the oven for a few minutes to dry. When ready for serving, fill the centre with oysters prepared as follows :— Beard two dozen oysters, and put the beards and the liquor into a saucepan with an inch of lemon-rind, a small pinch of salt, half an inch of mace, half a grain of cayenne, and the tenth | part of a nutmeg, grated. Boil quickly for six or eight minutes, then strain the gravy. Mix a table-spoonful. of flour smoothly with two | ounces of butter. Adda quarter of a pint of cream and the oyster liquor, and simmer gently until the sauce is smooth and thick. Putin the oysters, simmer two or three seconds only,.and serve. Time, about half an hour to bake the vol-au-vent; twenty minutes to prepare the oysters. Probable cost, 5s. Suf- ficient for four or five persons. Oysters, Wholesomeness of.—‘ Re- specting the wholesomeness of this well-known shell-fish,” says Dr. Spencer Thomson, “much difference of opinion exists among medical men; nutritious, especially when uncooked, they certainly are, but their digestibility in all | probability depends greatly upon the person by whom they are eaten. Some, whose stomachs generally require much consideration, can eat oysters in moderation, with impunity.” Dr. Paris, however, condemns them for invalids. Oysters have, though rarely, like other shell- fish, caused symptoms of irritant poisoning. Oysters with Leg of Mutton.—Make half a dozen deep incisions in the thick part of a well-kept leg of mutton, and fill them with a forcemeat made as follows :—-Boil a dozen fresh oysters in their own liquor for two minutes, beard them, and mince them finely with a shallot, a table-spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley-leaves, and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Tie the mutton ina cloth, put it into boiling water, let it boil, then draw it to the side of the fire, and simmer very gently until itis done enough. Serve with oyster sauce. Time to simmer, two and a half to three hours, ac- cording to size. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost of oysters, 1s. 6d. to 3s. per dozen. P Padeia Cake.—Beat two ounces of fresh butter toa cream. Mix with it four ounces of ground rice, four ounces of flour, two ounces of currants, washed, picked, and dried, two ounces of muscatel raisins, chopped small, a small pinch of salt, two ounces of crushed loaf sugar, and a quarter ofa nutmeg, grated. When the dry ingredients are thoroughly blended, make them into a dough, by stirring into them half a pint of luke-warm milk, in which has been. dissolved. a salt-spoonful of carbonate of soda, and which has been flavoured by the addition of three or four drops of the essence of almonds. Line a mould with well-oiled paper, three-parts fill it with the dough, and bake in a moderate oven. Time, about one hour to bake the cake. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for a small mould. Pain d’Ananas (see Pine-apple Pudding, or Pain d’Ananas). Palace Sweetmeats (for Dessert).— Take any quantity of freshly-candied peel or citron, from which the sugar has been carefully removed, and cut it into broad strips. Put these on a fork or silver skewer, and dip them into some liquid barley-sugar, then place them on a dish, which has been well oiled, being careful that the pieces do not touch, and let them remain until cold. These sweetmeats are easily made, and are much liked. They should be stored in a tin box, with white paper between each layer; and when served should be neatly piled on a dish,'and garnished with leaves. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. per pound. Sufficient, a quarter of a pound for a dish. . Palestine Pudding.—Put a quarter of a pound of biscuit flour into a bowl with a quarter | of a pourd of powdered sugar, a quarter of a small nutmeg, grated, and a pinch of salt. Add gradually a pint of new milk, and beat the mixture with a wooden spoon, until it is quite smooth and free from lumps, then put it intoa saucepan, with two ounces of fresh butter, and stir it over the fire till it boils and is thick. Pour it out into a shallow dish large enough to con- tain it, and when it is quite cold and stiff, cut it up into small fancy shapes; and fry them in a little butter, until they are lightly browned. Serve neatly arranged on a het dish, with lemon-sauce poured round them. The sauce may be made as follows:—Put the rind and juice of a fresh lemon into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of water and two ounces of loaf sugar, and let them boil until the sugar is dissolved, and the syrup is clear: strain, and serve. Time, about ten minutes to fry the pudding. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for five or six persons. : Palestine Soup.— Take three dozen freshly-dug artichokes, peel them, and throw them into cold water as they are done, or they will become discoloured. Put them into a saucepan with four onions, the outer sticks of a head of celery, and three pints of white stock, and let them simmer gently for an hour. Take out the onions and the celery, and press the artichokes through a fine sieve; put the purée back into the ‘saucepan, and when it is quite hot stir into it a pint of boiling cream, or if preferred, a mixture of cream and milk, season with salt, pepper; and grated nutmeg, simmer a minute or two, and serve immediately. Send fried bread, cut into small dice, to table on a separate dish. If liked, two bay leaves can be used instead of onions and celery. Palestine Soup (another, way).— Peel two dozen freshly-dug Jerusalem artichokes, and slice them into a stewpan, containing three pints of stock, or of the liquid in which. a leg of mutton has been boiled. Add four onions, four potatoes, a few sticks of celery, two ounces of lean ham, and simmer all gently together PAN ( 500 ) PAN antil the vegetables are soft enough, then press them through a fine sieve, rubbing them well with the back of a wooden spoon. Return the pulp and the liquid to the saucepan, season it well with salt, and add a little sugar if the arti- chokes were old. Stir the soup over the fire until it boils; put in half a pint of boiling milk or cream, and serve immediately. The soup should not boil after the cream is added, Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 10d. per pint. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Pan, Bain Marie (see Bain Marie Pan). Panachee Jelly.—Take any quantity of perfectly clear and transparent jelly, properly sweetened and flavoured. Dissolve it, and divide it into two equal portions, and colour one of these with three or four drops of prepared cochineal. Soak a mould large enough to contain the whole of the jelly in cold water, then fill it with alternate layers of the clear and the coloured jelly, remembering only to let each layer become perfectly stiff before another is added. If the jelly becomes so firm that it cannot easily be turned out, a napkin may be wrung out of boiling water, and wrapped round the mould for a minute or two, and this will probably be all that is required. Time, according to the state of the weather. The jelly will of course stiffen more quickly if the mould can be put into ice. Probable cost of calf’s-foot jelly, 2s. per pint. Panada.—Panada is a preparation of bread which is used by the French in making force- meats, and is much superior to the grated crumbs ordinarily used in English kitchens. The flavouring required for the whole of the forcemeat is generally put into the panada, and this flavouring is therefore a matter of con- siderable importance. Panada is made as follows :—Slice the crumb of two French rolls into a basin, and pour over it as much boiling | milk or broth as will cover it. Let it soak for half an hour, or until it is quite moist, then press it with a plate to squeeze out the superfluous liquid; afterwards put it into a cloth, and wring it thoroughly. Put an ounce of fresh butter into an enamelled saucepan, with a little pepper and salt, half a blade of mace, powdered, or a little grated nutmeg, half a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, two table-spoonfuls of minced parsley, half a dozen chopped mushrooms, and a, slice of lean ham, cut into dice ; a bay-leaf may be added or not. Stew these ingredients over the fire for a minute or two, then add the soaked bread and two table-spoonfuls of good white sauce or gravy. Stir the mixture over a gentle fire, until it forms a dry smooth paste and leaves the sides of the saucepan, then mix in the unbeaten yolks of two eggs ; put the preparation between two plates, and when cool it is ready for use. If preferred, instead of mixing the herbs and seasoning with the panada, the gravy or sauce may be simmered with the seasoning, until it is highly flavoured, and then strained over the bread. In making the forcemeat, equal quantities should be taken of whatever meat is to be used, panada, and calf’s udder, or butter, and these should be pounded together in a mortar, until they are thoroughly blended. When udder is used, it should be well boiled with as much water as will cover it, then allowed to cool, trimmed, rubbed through a fine sieve, and added to the forcemeat. The panada is to be stirred over the fire until the mixture leaves the saucepan. Panada (Invatrp Cooxzry).—Cut the crumb of a penny loaf into thin slices, and put these into a saucepan with as much chicken broth as will soak them. Let the panada boil, then add a little sugar and grated lemon-rind, and a glassful of light wine, if approved, Serve immediately. Time, ten minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for one person. Panada (Invatip Cooxzry. Another way). —Put a quarter of a pint of water anda glassful of sherry into a saucepan, with a lump of sugar and the very thin rind of a quarter of a lemon, or, if preferred, a little mace. Let these ingre- dients boil, then add three table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Boil quickly for five minutes, and serve. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one person. Panada, Bread.—Slice the crumb of two French rolls into a basin, and pour over it as much boiling gravy as it will absorb. "When quite moist, beat it well with a fork, add whatever seasoning is required, put the bread into a saucepan with an ounce of butter, and stir it over a gentle fire until it is dry and smooth, and leaves the saucepan with the spoon. When cool, it is ready for use. Time, about half an hour to soak the bread. Probable cost, 6d. Panada for Fish (sce Fish, Panada for). Panada for Fish Forcemeat.—Put the third part of a pint of water into a moderate- sized saucepan, with an ounce of fresh butter and a pinch of salt. Let it boil, then sprinkle in gradually four ounces of fine flour; stir until the panada is smooth and stiff, then add the unbeaten yolks of three eggs. Spread the panada on a plate, and when cold it is ready for use. Time, about a quarter of am hour. Probable cost, 4d. Panada, Game (sce Game Panada). Panada Soup.—Cut the crumb of two French rolls into thin slices, and put them into a saucepan, with as much cold water as will cover them. Let them boil for five or six minutes, then press them through a fine sieve, and put them back into the saucepan, with the liquid in which they were boiled, and two ounces of fresh butter which has been beaten to a cream. Season the mixture with a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg; stir it over the fire again until it boils, then add the yolks of two eggs, which have been beaten up with a quarter of a pint of new milk or cream, and serve immediately. The soup must not be allowed to boil after the eggs are added. Time, altogether, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 7d., if milk be used. Sufficient for two persons. Panecakes.—The batter for pancakes is best when made an hour or two before it is wanted for use. It should be quite smooth, and of the consistency of thick custard. The eggs PAN should first be whisked thoroughly, the yolks and whites separately, the flour should then be added, and when it has been beaten until it is quite free from lumps, the milk or cream should be put in. In making plain pancakes, two table-spoonfuls of flour and a quarter of a pint of milk should be allowed to each egg. If a larger proportion of eggs be used, less flour will be required. The fire over which pancakes are fried should be clear and bright, and the frying-pan scrupulously clean and hot. In order to insure this, it is best to melt a little fat in it, then pour it away, wipe the inside quickly round with a dry clean rag, put in a little more fat, and afterwards pour in the batter, which should cover the pan entirely, and be as thin as possible. The edges of the pancake should be kept free from the pan with a knife, and the pan must be shaken lightly, to prevent sticking. "When the batter is set, and the under side of the pancake nicely browned, the pan should be taken hold of at the end of the handle, and lightly jerked upwards, so as to turn the pancake completely over, and in a minute or two it will be ready for serving. If any difficulty is found in throwing up the pan- cake, it may be turned with a slice, or cut in two, and then turned. Pancakes may be dished in various ways, either flat, with sugar sifted between, or rolled and piled on a hot napkin, or placed side by side inadish. Lemon and sugar are generally sent to table with them, and they should be served as hot as possible; they may be flavoured according to taste. A few chopped apples, or a tea-spoonful of dried currants, is sometimes mixed with the batter, or sprinkled upon it when it is set in the pan, and another thin coating of batter poured over ; and pancakes thus made are called apple or currant pancakes. Pancakes are much more easily fried in a small pan than in a large one. Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost of batter, 8d. per pint. Sufficient for three or four persons. Recipes for the following pancakes will be found under their respective headings :— AMERICAN Pancake Batis APPLE Pancakes, French APPLES WITH CUSTARD is PLaIn CrEAM 55 RIssoLes CuRRANT ” RoseE- FRENcH COLOURED GINGER = Scotcu Inpian 55 Syow Trisn 3 Sturren Lerpzie a ‘WINDSOR New Encianp WITHOUT OxFoRD Eecs on Mitx Pancakes ALA Crime Rice Pancakes (another way).—Break three eggs in a basin, add a little salt, and beat them well up; put to them four ounces and a half of flour, mix together with milk till the whole is of the consistency of cream. Heat the frying-pan, and for each pancake put in » piece of butter the size of a walnut. Pour in the batter when the butter boils, until the bottom is covered. Fry the pancakes on both sides to a light brown. Serve one by one, or roll them up and send three or four together. { 601 ) | cake. PAN ‘Pancakes (4 la Créme).—Rub the rind of half a small fresh lemon with three or four large lumps of sugar until the yellow part is all taken off, then crush the sugar to powder, and mix with it a pinch of powdered cinnamon, asmall pinch of salt, and an ounce of dried flour. Make this into a smooth paste with a little cold milk and an ounce of clarified butter, then stir in very gradually half a pint of thick cream, and the well-whisked yolks of four and the whites of two eggs. Melt a quarter of an ounce of butter in a small frying-pan, fry the pancakes very quickly, and serve them as hot as possible. They should be very thin; a second supply of butter will not be required for frying. Time, three or four minutes to fry each pan- Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pancake Balls.—Dissolve half an ounce of yeast in a little lukewarm milk, and mix it with half a pound of flour, adding as much milk as is necessary to make a stiff dough. Set this in a bowl by the side of the fire, cover it with a cloth, and leave it to rise. Beat two ounces of fresh buttertoacream, rub five or six large lumps of sugar upon the rind of a lemon until all the yellow part is taken off, then crush them to powder, and mix them with the butter; add four well-beaten eggs, and knead all thoroughly with the dough. Make the mixture into small balls, insert a little marmalade or jam into the centre of each, close the aperture, and put them in a warm place to rise for a few minutes longer. Fry them in boiling fat until they are lightly browned, drain well, and dish them on a folded napkin, with powdered sugar sifted over them. ‘Time, about ten minutes to fry the balls. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pancakes, French.—Make a batter by beating up together three spoonfuls of potato- starch, five raw eggs, some powdered loaf sugar, and a little water. Add enough milk to make it of the consistency of porridge. Butter well the inside of a frying-pan, and place it over a moderate fire. When it is sufficiently hot, pour in a large spoonful of the batter, and shake the pan so as to spread it over the whole of its surface. When the pancake is done enough, throw it on a dish, and sprinkle its surface with crushed loaf sugar, or cover it with jelly. Pancakes, Plain.— Whisk two eggs thoroughly, and pour them into a bowl con- taining four table-spoonfuls of flour. Beat the mixture until it is smooth, and quite free from lumps, then add a pinch of salt, and two-thirds of a pint of new milk. Let the batter stand in a cool place for an hour or two, then fry the pancakes according to the directions given above; half an ounce of dripping will be required for each pancake. Time, five minutes to fry one pancake. Probable cost, 4d. Suffi- cient for three or four persons. Pancakes, Rissoles.—Prepare a pint of batter as for plain pancakes, and in making it substitute pepper and salt for sugar and nutmeg. Mince a pound of cold veal or beef very finely, and season it with salt, cayenne, PAN ( 502 ) PAP nutmeg, and grated lemon-rind. Fry a pancake in the usual way, and when it is set, and lightly browned, put half a cupful of the mince in the - centre, and cover it by folding over the ends and the sides; leave the pancake in the pan a few minutes longer to heat the meat, and as each rissole is finished, place it on an inverted sieve before the fire to drain, until the rest are ready for serving; dish the rissoles on a hot napkin, and garnish with parsley. Time to fry, eight minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pancakes, Rose -coloured, — Mix three table-spoonfuls of flour to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Add a pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, a little grated nutmeg, half a pint of milk, and four well-whisked eggs. Pare the outer skin from a medium-sized beetroot, which has been properly boiled. Cut it into thin slices, and crush it to pulp in a mortar, then stir it into the batter; fry the pancakes in the usual way, roll them neatly, and serve them on a hot dish with white currant jelly, or preserved apricots, round them. Time, six minutes to fry the pancake. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or six persons. Pancakes, Scotch.—Mix three table- spoonfuls of flour to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Add a pinch of salt, the well- beaten yolks of three eggs,.two drops of lemon,. and two drops of ratafia flavouring, a tea-spoon- ful of sugar, and half a pint of new milk, or cream, if obtainable. Leave the batter ina cool place until it is wanted for use, then at the jast moment stir in briskly the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a firm froth. Fry the pancakes im the usual way, but instead of turning them, brown the upper part with a salamander, or red-hot fire-shovel. When the pancakes are done, spread quickly over them a little jam or marmalade, roll them up, and then serve them on a hot dish, with powdered sugar sifted over them. If liked, half a dozen ratafias, or three macaroons, may be crushed to powder, and stirred into the batter. Time to fry the pancakes, five minutes: Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pancakes, Snow.—Freshly-fallen snow may be used instead of eggs in making batter for pancakes. Care must of course be taken that the snow is as pure as possible. The batter should be made rather thick, and the snow mixed with each pancake just before it is put into the pan. Asa general rule, it may be calculated that two table-spoonfuls of snow will be equal to one egg. Pancakes, Soup of (a German recipe). —Fry a couple of plain pancakes in the usual way, and be careful to put no more fat into the pan with them than is required to prevent them sticking. Drain them on an inverted Bleve, or press them between two sheets of blotting-paper, to free them from grease, and cut them into narrow strips, about an inch long, or if preferred into small diamonds or squares. Throw them into a saucepan contain- ing two pints of clear brown gravy soup, boiling hot; let them boil quickly for a minute or two, and serve. Time, ten minutes to fry the pancakes. Probable cost of pancakes, 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. . Pancakes, Stuffed.—Make «a pint of batter, according to the directions given for plain pancakes. Fry some thin pancakes, and as each one sets, and becomes coloured, spread over it a layer of good veal forcemeat, then roll it rather lightly, and lay it on a dish before the fire until the batter is finished. Cut the rolls into slices an inch thick, lay them on a | buttered dish, and. pour over them as much boiling gravy as will cover them. Grate a little nutmeg over before serving: If preferred, the stuffed slices of pancake may be egged, bread-crumbed, and fried again to a light brown, instead of being served with the gravy. Or they may be placed side by side in a buttered dish, some custard poured over them, and baked in a moderate oven until the custard sets. Time to fry the pancake, five minutes. Probable cost, Is., exclusive of the gravy. Sufficient for : four or five persons. Pancakes, Windsor.— Mix four table- spoonfuls of flour very smoothly with a little cold milk. Add a pinch of salt, half a small nutmeg, grated, six well-beaten eggs, six ounces of clarified butter, and a pint of new milk, or cream, if the latter can be had. Beat the mix- ture thoroughly, and set it in a cool place until wanted for use. No butter or lard will be required in frying these pancakes. Time to fry, five minutes. Probable cost, when made with milk, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pancakes, without Eggs or Milk. —Mix two table-spoonfuls of flour with a small pinch of salt, two or three grates of nutmeg, and a dessert-spoonful of moist sugar. Make a smooth batter, by mixing with the flour, &c., very gradually, half a pint of mild ale, and beat it fully ten minutes. Fry the pancakes in the usual way, and serve them with moist sugar sprinkled between them. Time, ten minutes to fry each pancake. Probable cost, abotit 4d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Pankail, Soup Maigre.—Shred a pound of cabbages, savoys, or bunch greens very finely, and throw them into w quart of boiling water, which has been thickened with oatmeal, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Add two ounces of butter or good beef dripping, and simmer gently for an hour and a half. Or, partially boil and mash the greens, boil them for half an hour with a quart of good stock or liquor in which meat has been boiled, and thicken the soup with powdered biscuit or finely- grated bread-crumbs. Probable cost, 8d. per quart. Sufficient for four or six persons. Papaw.—This fruit is the produce of a branchless tree found in the East and West Indies, is about the size of an ordinary melon, and is not unlike a gourd in shape. It is more wholesome than palatable, but is often eaten both raw and cooked. The usual time for gathering it is when the fruit is half-grown. Papilléte Sauce, for Veal or Mut- ton Cutlets (& la Maintenon).—Shred half PAR ( 603 ) PAR an ounce of fat bacon into:a stewpan with two small onions, finely minced. Fry them gently for four minutes, then add half a pint of thick brown sauce, a little pepper and salt, a table- spoonful of chopped mushrooms, or failing these, a table-spoonful of ketchup, a table- spoonful of finely-minced parsley, and a lump of sugar. Boil the sauce for five minutes. . It may be served either hot or cold. If the flavour be liked, the saucepan ean be rubbed |} briskly with a clove of garlic before the other ingredients are put in. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare. .Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Paradise, Grains ‘of, or Cardamom Seeds.—Cardamoms are the capsules of a species of plant-of the natural order scitaminee. | The seeds form, an aromatic pungent spice, weaker than pepper, and with a peculiar but pleasant taste. They are used in this country in confectionery, but not to a very great extent. In Asia, however, they are a favourite condi- ment; and in the north’ of Germany they are employed in almost every household to flavour pastry. Several kinds of-cardamoms occur in commerce, but mone are equal to what are known as Malabar cardamoms, grown in the mountains of Malabar and Canara. , Paradise Pudding.—Shred four. ounces of beef suet very finely, and mix with it an equal weight of finely-grated.bread-crumbs, half a salt-spoonful of salt, four table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, half a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, the grated rind and strained juice of a fresh lemon or a bitter orange, and six large apples, chopped small. Mix the dry-ingredients thoroughly, then add three well-whisked eggs and a table-spoonful of brandy. Put the mix- ture into a buttered mould, which it will quite fill, tie a floured cloth over it,:plunge it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until it is done enough. Serve the pudding on a hot dish, with a sauce made as follows, poured ‘over it :— Put three table-spoonfuls of apple-jelly into an enamelled saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of brandy. Stir them gently until the jelly is dissolved, then pour in gradually-a quarter of a pint of thick cream, and stir the sauce briskly until it is on the point of boiling. It is then ready for serving. If preferred, ‘this pudding may be baked instead of boiled. Time.to boil the pudding, three hours; to bake, one hour anda half. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. «© * ‘ ‘ Paris Loaves.— Whisk the whites of three eggs to a solid froth, and stir into it a quarter of a pound of powdered and sifted loaf ‘sugar. Take a pound of finger-biscuits, divide them ‘in twos, spread a little jam between them, and press them together. Brush them over lightly with the sugar icing, then put what remains of it into a paper cornet, squeeze the top to make the contents ooze out of the hole at the end, and in this way ornament the loaves in any way that fancy dictates. Shake a little sugar over them, and dry in a cool oven until they are lightly browned. The appearance of the loaves will be improved if, just before they are served, a little bright-coloured jelly of different | juice of a lar; half. of it, which has been rubbed‘upon sugar colours is laid: between the ornamental lines. Time, a few minutes to dry the icing. . Pro- bable cost, 2s. per pound. Paris Pudding.—Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan with three small table-spoonfuls of ground rice; stir it over the fire until it thickens, and when it is nearly cold, mix with it the yolks of four, and the whites of two eggs, together with three ounces of finely-shred beef suet, three ounces of chopped apples, weighed after they are peeled and cored, two table- spoonfuls of chopped raisins, two table- spoonfuls of powdered rusks or finely-grated bread-crumbs, and a table-spoonful of good jam. Blanch and pound twelve sweet almonds and two bitter ones, mix with them a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, four ounces of minced ‘candied peel, a grated nutmeg, and two or three drops of vanilla essence. Add the flavourings to the rest of the ingredients, and beat all together for some minutes. A table- spoonful of brandy may be added or not; pour the mixture into a well oiled mould, which it will quite fill, cover it with a sheet of oiled paper, tie it. in a cloth, put into boiling WHiens and keep it boiling quickly for. two ours. Paris Sauce, for Sweet Puddings. —Put a glassful of sherry into an enamelled saucepan, with a large table-spoonful of powdered sugar and the well-beaten -yolks of two eggs. Stir the mixture until it begins to thicken, then add very gradually three table- spoonfuls of thick cream; the sauce must not boil after the cream is added. Time, three or four minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the sherry, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Parisienne, Cream 4 la (see Cream a la Parisienne). Parkin, Gingerbread. (see.Gingerbread Parkin). Parliament or ‘Parley’? Cakes.— Put two ounces of fresh butter into an earthen jar with one pound of best treacle, and place the jar near the fire until the butter is dissolved. Pour the warmed liquid upon one pound of flour, add a table-spoonful of powdered ginger, a piece of pearlash the size of a nut, and a little alum ; beat the mixture until it is smooth, then put it in a cool place until the next day. Roll it out thin, cut it into oblong squares, and bake these on a buttered tin in a moderate oven. Time to bake, from twenty minutes to half an hour. Probable cost, about 8d. for this quantity. Parliament Pudding. — Whisk the yolks of seven and the whites of four eggs well, first. separately and afterwards together. Boil half a pound of loaf sugar with a pint of water, skim it carefully. When it is a clear syrup, pour it over the oggs, add the strained j 0 rge lemon, and the yellow part of and powdered. Beat the mixture for several minutes, and whilst beating shake in gradually half a pound of dried flour. Take care, there are no lumps in the batter. Pour it into a Buttered tin, and bake it in a well-heated oven PAR ( 504 ) PAR till it is nicely set, say for about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parmesan and Cauliflower.—Boil a moderate-sized cauliflower in the usual way, and drain it well. Put a large table-spoonful of grated Parmesan into a stewpan, with a quarter of a pint of good white sauce, and let them simmer together for four or five minutes, then put in the drained cauliflower, and let it boil very gently for ten minutes. Put the vegetable into a hot dish, grate another table- spoonful of Parmesan over it, brown it with a salamander, or put in the Dutch oven for a minute or two, pour the sauce over it, and serve. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Parmesan and Soup.—Grated Parmesan should be served with macaroni and all other soups made with Italian pastes. Parmesan Cheese, British.—Put a piece of rennet into somo fresh milk, about 76 deg. in temperature. Let it stand an hour or two, then put it over a gentle fire, and let it heat very gradually until the curd separates. Throw in half a cupful of cold water to assist the separation, lift out the curd, drain the liquid entirely from it, and press in the usual way. Rub it every day for twenty-one days with a little salt, and be careful that it dries gradually. The milk should be heated until the curd separates. Parmesan Cheese, with (see Cauliflowers). Parmesan Cheese, Cod and (see Cod and Parmesan Cheese). Parmesan Cheese, Lamb Chops Fried with (see Lamb Chops Fried with Parmesan Cheese). Parmesan Cheese, Nouilles with (see Nouilles with Parmesan or au Gratin). Parmesan Cheese, Potatoes Sliced With (see Potatoes Sliced with Parmesan Cheese). Parmesan Cheese Straws.—Beat three ounces of fresh butter toa cream. Mix with it three ounces of dried flour, three ounces of grated Parmesan, and half a salt-spoonful of cayenne. Roll the paste out thin; cut it into strips three inches long, and the third of an inch broad, and bake them on a buttered tim in a quick oven. Serve them immediately, piled high on a napkin. Time, a few minutes to bake. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for two or three persons. (See also Cheese Straws.) Parmesan Fondue.—Mix an ounce of flour to a smooth paste with a little cold water, and stir into it half a pint of boiling milk. Season the mixture with a little pepper and salt, and half a tea-spoonful of made mustard, and add one ounce of fresh butter and three ounces of grated Parmesan; then put it aside to cool. Have ready a well-oiled mould, sufficiently large to allow for rising. Beat the yolks of three eggs, and stir them into the batter, and at the last moment add the whites of the eggs, which have been whisked to a solid froth. Bake in a quick oven. When set, the fondueisdone enough, Cauliflowers ® and must be served immediately. Time, from half to three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 10d. (See also Cheese Fondue.) Parmesan Puffs.—Put four ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, four ounces of grated Parmesan, two ounces of fresh butter, and a little salt and cayenne into a mortar, and pound them thoroughly. Bind the mixture together with a well-beaten egg, and make it up into balls, the size of a large walnut. Egg and bread-crumb these, and fry them until they are lightly browned. The fat must not be quite boiling when the puffs are put in, or they will be too highly coloured. Drain them, and serve very hot, piled on a napkin. Time, four or five minutes to fry the puffs. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parr.—tThis is the name applied to salmon until the close of their second year, when they lose their dark lateral bars by the super-addition of a silvery pigment (see Salmon). Parsley.—The foliage of parsley is of use for flavouring soups, &c., besides which it is nutritious and stimulating, a quality which it seems to derive from an essential oil present in every part of the plant. Among the varieties of parsley are:—Plain-leaved parsley, which used to be the only sort employed in cook- ing. It is not much cultivated now, how- ever, the curled varieties being much more elegant; besides—and this is a good reason for avoiding it—it bears a marked resem- blance to a poisonous British weed, the bitter hemlock, or fool’s parsley. It is well to know that the leaves of fool’s parsley are of a darker hue than the genuine article, and that when bruised they emit a very unpleasant odour. ‘When in flower, fool’s parsley may also be dis- tinguished by what is popularly termed its head. Curled-leaf parsley.—This, both for flavour and appearance as a garnish, is the best sort of parsley. It cannot, too, be mistaken for hemlock, being quite unlike that plant. Parsley is a great favourite with sheep, hares, and rabbits, and is said to give their flesh a fine flayour. Naples parsley, or celery-parsley, is used in place of celery. It is a variety between parsley and celery. Hamburg parsley is cultivated for its roots. These grow as large as small parsnips. When boiled they are very tender, and agreeable to the taste, besides being very wholesome. They are used in soup or broth, or eaten with meat. The cultivation of parsley is extremely simple; an annual sowing is generally made. Parsley and Liver Sauce (see Liver and Parsley Sauce). Parsley, Calf’s Brains and (see Calf’s Brains and Parsley). Parsley, Crisp.—Crisp parsley is generally used for garnishing dishes. Pick and wash a handful of young parsley. Shake it in a cloth to dry it thoroughly, and spread it on a sheet of clean paper in a Dutch oven before the fire. Turn the bunches frequently until they are quite crisp. Parsley is much more easily crisped than fried. Time, six or seven minutes to crisp. Probable cost, 1d. PAR ( 505 ) PAR Parsley, Fried (for .garnishing).—Wash and dry the parsley thoroughly, by swinging it backwards and forwards in a cloth. Put it into hot fat, and let it remain until it is crisp; take it out immediately, and drain it before the fire. If the parsley is allowed to remain in the fat one moment after it is crisp it will be .poilt. Parsley is best fried in a frying-basket. If this is not at hand, the parsley should be taken out of the fat with a slice. ey Fritters, Bread and (see Bread and Parsley Fritters). Parsley Juice, for Colouring Sauces, &c.—Pick a quantity of young parsley-leaves from the stalks, wash and dry them well, and pound them ina mortar. Press the juice from them into a jar, which place in a saucepan of boiling water. Let it simmer gently until it is warm, when it is ready for use. The juice of spinach-leaves is used as well as that of parsley for colouring. It is prepared in the same way. Time, three or four minutes to simmer the juice. Parsley Sauce.—tThe excellence of this sauce depends greatly upon the parsley-leaves being chopped very small. Take a handful of fresh parsley, if procurable. Wash it, pick off the leaves, and boil them quickly in salt and water for three minutes. Drain them well, and mince them as finely as possible, then stir them into half a pint of well-made melted butter or white’ sauce, and serve immediately. If pre- ferred, the parsley may be boiled for ten minutes, then chopped small, bruised, put into a tureen, and the sauce poured over it. A little cold butter, broken into small pieces, should then be stirred into the hot sauce until it is melted, and the sauce served immediately. It is always best to send parsley sauce to table in atureen instead of pouring it over the meat. Time, a quarter ofan hour. Probable cost, 4d. (See also Maitre d’ Hotel Sauce.) Parsley Sauce, Imitation, — When parsley cannot be procured, a good imitation of it may be made by tying a tea-spoonful of parsley-seed in a little muslin, and boiling it with the water of which the sauce is to be made till it is nicely flavoured. A few spinach- leaves boiled, chopped, and stirred into the sauce will give the appearance of parsley, as the seed will impart its flavour. Time, a few minutes to boil the seed. Parsley (when and how to Preserve it for Winter use).—Gather the sprigs of parsley in May, June, and July. Wash them well, and throw them into a saucepan of boiling water slightly salted. Let them boil for two minutes, then take them out, drain and dry them before the fire as quickly as possible, put them in a tin box, and store them in a dry place. Before using the parsley, soak it in warm water for a few minutes to freshen it. Parsnip.—This plant is a native of Britain. It contains a considerable quantity of sugar, and is disliked by some on account of its pecu- liarly sweet taste. It is a frequent accompani- ment to salt fish during Lent. In Scotland parsnips and potatoes are beaten together, _ removed. butter being added; it is a dish of which children are particularly fond. The parsnip is less digestible than the potato, on account of the woody fibre which it contains. The potato is superior to it in possessing more sugar, starch, and nutritious matter. On the introduction, therefore, of potatoes into the Old World, parsnips fell rather into the background. The common parsnip is a cultivated variety of the wild parsnip. It contains less water and more nutritive matter, as well as more woody fibre and less sugar, than either turnips or carrots. One hundred parts of parsnips contain :— Water . 7 é 82-039 Albumen axd casein 1-215 Sugar . F 2°882 Starch , 3507 Fat ‘ 0°546 Gum . . 0-748 Woody fibre. 8-022 Mineral matter 1:041 Or, Water . : s : 82-0 Flesh and force producers 1:2 Force producers 16°8 Mineral matter 1.0 The parsnip is chiefly used in winter. It is improved rather than the reverse by frost; but is apt to become rusty if allowed to remain too long in the ground. After it hag begun to grow again in spring it exhibits acrid qualities. The root of the parsnip is in demand in the North of Ireland for making a fermented liquor, with yeast and hops, and both in Great Britain and Ireland for making parsnip wine (see Parsnip Wine), which is held to resemble malmsey wine. Parsnips may be dressed in the same way as carrots, which they very much resemble. When boiled they are generally served with boiled meat, or boiled salt fish, or when fried, with roast mutton. If young, they require only to be washed and scraped before they are boiled, all blemishes being of course If old and large, the skin must be pared off and the roots cut into quarters. Carrots and parsnips are often sent to table together. It should be remembered that parsnips are more quickly boiled than carrots. Parsnip Cake.—Boil two or three parsnips until they are tender enough to mash, then press them through a colander with the back of a wooden spoon, and carefully remove any fibrous stringy pieces there may be. Mix a tea-cupful of the spats pare with a quart of hot milk, add a tea-spoontul of salt, four ounces of fresh butter, half a pint of yeast, and enough flour to make a stiff batter. Put the bowl which contains the mixture in a warm place, cover it with a cloth, and leave it to rise. When it has risen to twice its original size, knead some more flour into it, and let it rise again ; make it into small round cakes a quarter of an inch thick, and place these on buttered tins. Let them stand before the fire a few minutes, and bake them in a hot oven. These cakes should be eaten hot. They do not taste of the parsnips. Time, some hours to rise; about twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, PAR ( 506 ) PAR 1s. for this quantity. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Parsnip Fritters.—Boil four good-sized parsnips in salted water until quite tender. Drain them, beat them to a pulp, and then squeeze the water from them as much as pos- sible. Bind them together by mixing smoothly with them an egg and a dessert-spoonful of flour. Make them into oval cakes with a spoon, and fry in hot dripping until they are lightly browned on both sides. Drain them on an inverted sieve, and serve neatly piled on a hot napkin. Time to boil the parsnips, an hour or more; to fry them, a few minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parsnip Pudding.—Wash, scrape, and boil four or five large parsnips, mash them, and press them through a colander. Stir in with them a little grated nutmeg, or any other flavouring, one ounce of fresh butter, and four well-beaten eggs, together with two table- spoonfuls of brandy, if approved. Butter a pie-dish, pour in the mixture, and strew finely- grated bread-crumbs thickly over; divide one ounce of butter into small pieces, and place these here and there upon the pudding. Bake in a moderate oven, and serve with sweet sauce. This pudding may be boiled instead of baked. When this is done, the mould into which the mixture is put should be thickly lined with finely-grated bread-crumbs before the pudding is putin. Time, about an hour and a half to bake ; an hour and a quarter to boil. Probable cost, 1s., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parsnip Soup.—Put half a dozen sliced parsnips into a stewpan, with two onions, half a dozen sticks of celery, and two quarts of good light-coloured stock. Stew the vegetables until they are tender, then drain them, press them through a coarse sieve, and return’ the purée to the soup. Let it boil, flavour with a little salt and pepper, or cayenne, and serve very hot. A little boiling milk may be added if liked. The excessive sweetness of parsnip soup may be corrected by the addition of a little tomato, ora table-spoonful of chilli vinegar. Time, about two hours to stew the vegetables. Probable cost, 10d. per quart. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parsnip Wine.—This beverage is highly spoken of by those who are accustomed to home-made wines. Clean and quarter the roots, carefully remove any spongy or decayed portions from them, and cut them into pieces about four inches long. After they are thus prepared, weigh them, and boil them, allowing four or five pounds of the roots to each gallon of water. When they are tender, without being pulpy, leave the lid off the copper for a short time, to allow the strong aromatic odour which will arise to escape, then strain the liquid through a hair sieve into a tub, and be careful in doing so not to bruise the roots. Add immediately half an ounce of powdered white argol to cach gallon of wine, and when it has Seen stirred a few minutes, introduce three pounds of loaf sugar, and stir again until the latter is dissolved. Leave the liquid uncovered until it is almost cold, that is, until it is reduced to a temperature of eighty-five degrees. Cut a thick round of bread from a half-quartern loaf, toast it, and moisten it with fresh yeast (two table-spoonfuls will be sufficient for six gallons of wine) ; put this into the liquid, cover the vessel which contains it with a flannel, and stir it every day until the fermentation sub- sides. The vessel should be kept in a room or cellar where from fifty to fifty-five degrees may be kept up, and the yeast should be skimmed off as it forms. In ten days or a fortnight the wine may be turned into the cask. If a sweet wine is wanted the barrel should be filled to the bung, and left for a few days; then as it overflows it should be filled up with a small quantity of the liquid which has been preserved for the purpose. When it is quiet, the hole may be covered with a piece of brown paper, and if that remains unmoved for a week the cask may be loosely bunged down, and in a day or two, when the “fretting” is quite over, made tight. This wine may be racked off in six months, but should not be bottled for at least a year. When a dry wine is wanted, leave the liquid in the open vessel until all the beer yeast has risen and been skimmed off, then put it into the cask, and leave an inch or two of space in the barrel ; frequently stir in the yeasty froth, and to prevent the liquor escaping cover it with a slate. Skim the liquor thoroughly before securing it, and be careful not to fill up the cask until the wine is quite tranquil. Time to ferment the liquid, ten or fourteen days, until the fermentation subsides. Probable cost, 1s. 10d. per gallon. Parsnip Wine, A Simple Way of Making.—Take eighteen pounds of parsnips, and ‘ten gallonsof water. Boil the parsnips in the water till they are quite soft, then strain and squeeze out the liquor, and to every gallon add three pounds of lump sugar. Boil for three-quarters of an hour, and when cool, ferment with a little yeast on a toast. Let the liquid stand ten days in a, tub, stirring every day. At the end of that time putit into a-cask. The parsnip wine will be fit for bottling in six or seven months. Parsnips, Boiled,—Wash and scrape the parsnips, and carefully remove any blemishes there may bé about them. Cut them into quarters, and throw them into a saucepan of boiling water, slightly salted. Let them boil quickly, until they are sufficiently tender for a fork or skewer to pierce them easily, then take them up, drain them, and send them to table as quickly as possible. The water in which parsnips are boiled should be carefully skimmed two or three times after the roots are put in. Time, from half an hour to an hour and a half, according to the age and size of the parsnips. Probable cost, 14d. each. Sufficient, one large parsnip for two persons. Parsnips, Boiled, Cold.—Cold parsnips. are very good when eaten with cold meat. To warm them up, put them into an earthen jar, cover closely, and place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, which must be kept boiling for about twenty minutes; the parsnips may PAR ( 507 ) PAR then be served, and will be almost as good as when first dressed. Parsni Browned under Roast Meat.—Boil the parsnips until tender, ac- cording to the directions given above. Take them up, drain well, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them, put them in the dripping-pan before the fire under the joint they are to accompany, and let them remain until they are nicely browned. Send them to table in a dish by themselves, with two or three round the meat as a garnish. Time, about a quarter of an hour to brown the parsnips. Probable cost, lid. each. Sufficient, one large parsnip for two persons. Parsnips, Fried.—Boil four or five large parsnips in salted water until they are tender, but unbroken. Drain them well, and cut them either into rounds or long slices, a quarter of an inch thitk. Dip them into frying batter, and fry them in hot lard or dripping until they are lightly browned on both sides. Drain well, and serve very hot, as an accompani- ment to roasted joints or fowls. The batter may be made as follows:—Break an ounce of fresh butter into small pieces, and pour over it about two table-spoontuls of boiling water, stir until it is dissolved, then add a third of a pint of ‘cold water and a little salt and pepper, and mix in, very gradually, six ounces of fine flour. Just before the batter is used, add the white of an egg beaten to a firm froth. Time, one hour or more to boil the parsnips; a few minutes to fry the rounds. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parsnips, Mashed.—Scrape and boil four or five parsnips in salted water until quite tender, then drain them, mash them, and press them through a colander. Put them into a stewpan, with two or three table-spoonfuls of cream; failing this, of milk, thickened with a small tea-spoonful of flour and a little butter. Stir the parsnips over the fire until the liquid is absorbed and they are quite hot; then turn them into a tureen, and serve immediately. Time to boil, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half, according to age and size. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Parsnips, Stewed.—Boil two moderate- sized parsnips until tender, then drain, and cut them in slices, about half an inch thick and three inches long. Make a little good white sauce with two ounces of butter, a table- spoonful of flour, a table-spoonful of stock, the third part of a pint of new milk (or cream, if obtdinable), and a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Stir this sauce over the fire until it is smooth and thick, put in the sliced parsnips, simmer for a few minutes, and serve. Time, five or six minutes to simmer the parsnips in the sauce. Probable cost, 8d.,if the sauce be made with milk. Sufficient for four or five persons. _ Parson’s Pudding.—Line a pie-dish with | puff paste, place in it a layer of any jam or jelly, cover this with bread and butter, without crust, and pour over it a quart of milk, in which four eggs and a quarter of a pound of ground rice have been mixed and well sweetened. Bake in a quick oven. ‘Time, overan hour. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Sufticient for six or seven persons. Partridges.—Partridges, like other game, should be hung as long as it is safe to keep them. They should be chosen young, as an old bird is comparatively worthless. They are in season from the lst of September to the be- ginning of February. Partridges when young covey together, and thus the sportsman often shoots several at once. When the winter comes on they retire to the upland meadows, and hide themselves among the grass. They are simple and timorous birds, and are easily taken. The eggs of partridges are frequently hatched under the domestic hen, and the young fed on ants, eggs, curds, and grits, with a little green food; when old enough they are fed with grain. They are easily tamed, though it is said they never wholly forget their wild origin. The female partridge is smaller than her mate, and less pleasing in colour; her back is darker, and her belly without the brown patch in its centre. The male is twelve inches long. and twenty broad, and the wing measures six and the tail three inches. The common partridge is almost exclusively a European bird. In Europe it is extensively distributed in all suitable localities, and inhabits all the level parts of England and Scotland. \ Partridges, Baked (al Italienne).—Pluck and truss a brace of partridges as if for roasting, and put into each bird a forcemeat made as follows :—Grate half an ounce of stale bread into very fine crumbs. Season these with as much salt and white pepper as will stand on a threepenny-piece, and half a dozen grates of nutmeg; work in with the fingers an ounce of butter, and add a tea-spoonful of finely- minced parsley and a tea-spoonful of lemon- juice. Dip two sheets of note-paper into some pure salad-oil; peel, mince finely, and mix thoroughly, three good-sized mushrooms, @ moderate-sized carrot, a small onion, two table- spoonfuls of parsley-leaves, and half a dozen leaves. of thyme, with two or three truffles, if these are obtainable. Divide the minced vegetables into two equal portions, and spread them upon the paper, lay the partridges upon them, and cover the breasts with fat bacon, tied securely round with twine, and fasten the paper. Lay the birds side by side, breasts uppermost, in a deep pan, cover the partridges closely, bake in a good oven, and baste once or twice during the eo ‘When they are done enough, take off the paper and the bacon, put the birds on « hot dish, and pour over them w sauce made as follows :—Put half a pint of good stock into a saucepan, with an onion, the trimmings of the mushrooms and truffles, a slice of carrot, and a little salt and pepper, if required. Boil quickly for half an hour, then strain the sauce, thicken it with a ‘dessert-spoonful of flour, add a dessort-spoon- ful of, browning, two table-spoonfuls of claret, and the minced vegetables which covered the partridges; boil, up once, and servo. Time, from thirty to forty minutes to bake the birds, PAR ( 508 ) PAR if of moderate size. Probable cost, 5s. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Partridges, Boiled (Invatip Cooxery). —Partridges are occasionally boiled for old persons or invalids, and they are delicate and tender served thus. Wash them well, truss them as chickens are trussed for boiling, with- out the heads.’ Drop them into boiling water, sprinkle a tea-spoonful of salt over them, and let them simmer very gently for a quarter of an hour, or if the birds are old, twenty minutes. Serve them with sliced lemon round the dish, and with white sauce, celery sauce, or bread sauce, accompanied by game gravy, in a tureen. Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per brace. Sufficient for three or four persons. Partridges, Braised (a la Béarnaise).— Pluck and ‘w a brace of partridges, and wipe them carefully with a damp cloth inside and out, cut off the heads, and truss the legs like those of boiled fowls. Put them into a stewpan, with two-table-spoonfuls of oil and a piece of garlic the size of a pea, and turn them about over a clear fire until they are slightly browned all over, then pour over them two table-spoonfuls of strong stock, one glassful of sherry, and two table-spoonfuls of preserved tomatoes, with a little salt, and plenty of pepper. Simmer all gently together until the partridges are done enough, and serve very hot; the sauce should be rather highly seasoned. Time, about ten minutes to simmer the partridges. Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per brace; the price, however, is very variable. Sufficient for three or four persons. Partridges, Braised (41a Reine).—Truss a brace of partridges as if for boiling. Fill them with good game forcemeat, in which there are two or three truffles cut into small pieces, and tie thin slices of fat bacon over them. Slice a small carrot into a stewpan, with an onion, four or five sticks of celery, two or three sprigs of parsley, and an ounce of fresh butter. Place the partridges on these, breasts uppermost, pour over them half a pint of good stock, cover with a round of buttered paper, and simmer as gently as possible, until the partridges are done enough. Strain the stock, free it carefully from grease, thicken it with a little flour, add as much browning as is necessary, and flavour with cayenne, half a dozen drops of the essence of anchovy, and a table-spoonful of sherry. Stir this sauce over a gentle fire until it is on the point of boiling, then poe it over the partridges, already dished upon toast, and serve immediately. Time, about an hour and a half or less, to simmer the par- tridges. Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per brace. Sufficient for three or four persons. Partridges, Braised, with Cabbage. —-Phick and draw two partridges, truss them as if for boiling, and cover with thin slices of bacon, tied on securely with strong twine. Trim and wash two small cabbages, or a savoy, boil them, uncovered, for a quarter of an hour, and afterwards drain them thoroughly. Slice a carrot, an onion, and some sticks of celery, into a stewpan. Put with them three ounces of fresh butter, a large lump of sugar, crushed to powder, a salt-spoonful of pepper, the eighth of a grated nutmeg, and a little salt, the quan- tity to be regulated by the quality of the bacon. Put a layer of cabbage over these, then lay in the partridges, breasts uppermost, and after- wards the rest of the cabbage. Cover the whole with good stock, then simmer as gently as possible until the partridges are done enough ; keep moistening them with gravy, if required. Dish the birds upon the bacon, and put the cabbage round them. To make the gravy, mix an ounce of butter with an ounce of flour, and stir them over the fire for three minutes, add a pint of good stock, and boil quickly for ten minutes. Strain the gravy into « tureen, and serve immediately. Fried sausages are often sent to table with this dish, which is a great favourite in France. Time, about one hour and a half to simmer the birds, &c. Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per brace, but the price varies, Sufficient for four persons. Partridges, Braised, with Mush- rooms.—Pick, draw, singe, and truss as for boiling, a brace of young well-kept partridges. Dredge a little flour over them, and brown them equally and lightly in hot butter. Put them side by side into a stewpan, pour to them as much rich brown gravy, seasoned with salt and cayenne, as will half cover them, and let them stew very gently until they are half done. Turn them over, put into the gravy with them two dozen small mushrooms, and simmer again until the birds are done enough. Serve them on a hot dish, with the sauce poured over them. Time, about one hour and a half. Probable cost, 5s, Sufficient for five or six persons. Partridges, Braised, with Truffles.— Truss three young well-hung partridges, and braise them according to the directions given in the last recipe. Wash, wipe, and pare two or three fine truffles. Cut them into thin slices, put them into a stewpan, with a little salt and cayenne, a finely-minced shallot, and two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley. Fry them gently for about a quarter of an hour, and be careful not to break them; then drain them, and put with them half an ounce of butter, the strained juice of a lemon, and a quarter of a pint of the brown gravy in which the partridges have been cooked. Let the sauce boil. Drain the partridges. Place them ona hot dish, in the form of a triangle, pour part of the sauce into the centre, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Time, one hour and a half to cook the birds ; a quarter of an hour to fry the truffles. Probable cost of partridges, 1s. 6d. each; truffles, variable. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Partridges, Broiled.—Prepare the part- ridges as if for roasting ; cut off their heads, split them entirely up the back, and flatten the breastbones a little. Wipe them thoroughly inside and out with a damp cloth, season with salt and cayenne, and broil over a gentle fire. As soon as they are done enough rub them quickly over with butter, and send them to table on a hot dish, with brown gravy or mushroom sauce in a tureen. Time, fifteen minutes to broil the partridges. Probable cost PAR ( 509 ) PAR of partridges, 3s. per brace. Sufficient for four persons. ae Partridges, Broiled (another way).— Prepare the partridges as in the last recipe, sprinkle over them a little salt and cayenne, then dip them twice into clarified butter and very fine bread-crumbs, taking great care that the birds are entirely covered. Place them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil them gently. Send them to table on «# hot dish, with brown sauce or mushroom sauce in a tureen. Time to broil the partridges, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 3s. per brace. Suffi- cient for four persons. Partridges, Chartreuse of.—Boil some carrots and turnips separately, and cut them into pieces two inches long and three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Braise two small sum- mer cabbages, or a savoy, drain them well, and stir them over the fire until they are quite dry; then roll them on a cloth, and cut them into pieces about two inches long and an inch thick. Roast a brace of partridges, and cut them into neat joints. Butter a plain entrée mould; line it at the bottom and the sides with buttered paper, and afterwards fit in the pieces of carrot and turnip, to form a sort of wall; then fill it up with the cabbage and the pieces of partridge in alternate layers. Steam the chartreuse to make it hot; turn it out of the mould upon an entrée dish and garnish with turnips, carrots, and French beans. Send some good brown sauce to table with it. Time, half an hour to roast the partridges; two hours to braise the cabbage ; steam the chartreuse until it is quite hot. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Partridges, Choosing. — Partridges should be chosen young: when the legs are yellow, the bills sharp and dark- coloured, and the under feathers of the wings 7 PARTRIDGE. pointed: If the vent is stiff, the bird is fresh, and if it is green and discoloured, the bird has been killed some time. The legs turn grey as the bird grows older. Old partridges are not good for much. The season for the common partridge lasts from September to February. Partridges, Cold, Sauce for.—Boil an egg until it is quite hard. Let it get cold, then rub it well with the back of a wooden spoon, and with it the flesh of a very small anchovy, from which the bones and skin have been removed, also a finely-minced shallot, a tea-spoonful of mustard, and a little cayenne. When the dry ingredients are thoroughly blended, add, very gradually, two table-spoon- fuls of oil and three table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Strain the sauce through muslin, and serve. Time, ten minutes to boil the egg. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Partridges, Mayonnaise of.—Roast a brace of partridges, cut them into neat joints, and put them aside for a few minutes. Boil two eggs for ten minutes, put them into cold water, and when they are cold take out the yolks, put them into a basin, and rub them smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Add a small quantity each of salt, pepper, and mixed mustard, then very gradually four table-spoonfuls of oil, one table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, four table-spoonfuls of aspic jelly, or failing this, good stock. If liked, the jelly or stock can be omitted. Put the partridges on a dish, pour the mayon- naise gently over them to cover them, and place a few hearts of freshly cut cabbage lettuce round them. Garnish the dish with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters length- wise, and slices of boiled beetroot. Pro- bable cost, 8s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Partridges, Pie of.—Pluck, draw, and singe three young partridges, and divide them into halves, lengthwise. Mince the livers finely, and mix with them a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt- spoonful of pepper, two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs, and as much powdered mace as will cover a threepenny-piece; then put the forcemeat into the birds, and a piece of fresh butter, the size of « walnut, in each Butter a shallow pie-dish, and line the edges with a-good crust. Lay a slice of lean veah at the bottom, and season lightly with salt, pepper, and powdered mace. Wrap the birds in thin slices of fat bacon, pack them closely, breast downwards, upon the veal, and pour over them a quarter of a pint of good veal stock. Cover the dish with the pastry, ornament it prettily, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake in a‘moderate oven. This is a savoury dish, suitable either for breakfast, supper, or luncheon. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 6s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Partridges, Pie of (another way).—Pluck, draw, and. singe a brace of young partridges, and season them, inside and out, with a little salt, cayenne, and powdered mace. Cover them with thin rashers of fat bacon, and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pint.of veal stock, or water; put on the lid, and let them simmer as gently as possible for half an hour. Whilst they are simmering, make a forcemeat, by mincing together, very finely, a quarter of a pound of lean veal, a quarter of a pound of fat bacon, and a quarter of a pound of liver. Sea- son this with salt, cayenne, and powdered mace, and spread half of the forcemeat at the bottom of the dish. Take out the birds, and cut them into quarters. Lay half of the bacon which was tied round them upon the forcemeat, then | pack in the partridges, and cover them witb | the remainder of the forcemeat and bacon- PAR ( 510) PAR Pour in three table-spoonfuls of the gravy in which the partridges were simmered. Line the edges of the dish with good pastry, and cover with the same. Make a hole in the centre and bake in a quick oven. Before sending the pie to table, pour in a quarter of a pint of good gravy, which has been slightly flavoured with Jemon-juice. Time to bake, about one hour. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Partridges, Pie of, Hunter’s.—Pluck, draw, and singe three young partridges. Divide them into halves, sprinkle over them a little salt, cayenne, and powdered mace, and fry them in a little hot butter until they are equally and lightly browned all over. Line the edges of a shallow pie-dish with a good crust. Lay two or three thin slices of the fillet of veal and bacon at the bottom, and sprinkle over them two table-spoonfuls of finely-minced mush- rooms, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little salt and cayenne. If mushrooms cannot be had, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup must supply their place. Pour a quarter of a pint of onion sauce over the veal, then pack the birds closely into the dish, breast upper- most, and add some more mushrooms, parsley seasoning, and onion sauce. Cover the pie with a good crust, ornament it prettily, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake in a moderate oven. Pour a quarter of a pint of melted savoury jelly into the pie before sending it to table. Time, an hour and a half to bake the pie. Probable cost, 7s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Partridges, Potted.—Prepare and truss the partridges as if for roasting, and season them inside and out with pepper, salt, and grated nut- meg. Puta piece of fresh butter, the size of a large egg, inside the birds, and pack them, breast downwards, closely together in a pie- dish. Place three or four pieces of butter upon them, cover the dish with a coarse paste, made of flour and water, and bake them in a moderate oven. Do not remove the covering until: the dish is quite cold; then take out the birds, free them entirely from gravy, cut them into con- venient-sized pieces, and pack them as closely as possible in a potting-jar, cover with clarified butter, and store in a cool place. Time, one hour to bake the partridges. Probable cost, 3s. per brace. Sufficient for four or five persons. Partridges, Potted (another way).— Pick the meat from the remains of cold roast partridges, which have been well dressed. Re- move all the skin and gristle, mince the meat finely, and pound it in a mortar. Add, every now and then, a small quantity of fresh butter, and season with salt, cayenne, and grated nut- meg. When the meat is quite smooth, press it into small jars, cover with dissolved butter, and store in a cool place. About two ounces and a half of butter will be required for each half pound of meat. Time, forty minutes to roast the partridges. Probable cost, 3s. per brace. Partridges, Pudding of.—The flavour of partridges is never better preserved than when they are cooked im a pudding. Pluck, draw, and singe a brace of well-kept partridges, cut them into neat joints, and if they are not very young, take off the skin before doing so. Line a quart pudding-basin with u good suet crust, half an' inch in thickness, and in trimming it off leave an inch above the edge. Lay a thin slice of rump steak at the bottom of the pudding, then put in the pieces of partridge, season with pepper and’ salt, and pour over them a quarter of a pint of good brown gravy. Roll out the cover, lay it on the adding, moisten the edge, and press over it the inch that was left round the rim. Wring a pudding-cloth out of hot water, flour it well, and tie it securely over the pudding. Plunge it into boiling water, and keep it fast boiling all the time it is on the fire; as soon as it is taken off, cut a small round of pastry out of the top, to let the steam escape. If the appear- ance is not objected to, partridge pudding, like all other meat puddings, is much bettor when served in the dish in which it was cooked. If it is to be turned out, however, the basin must be thickly buttered before the pastry is put in. A few mushrooms will be a great improve- ment to this pudding, though it will be ve good without. Time, three hours to boil. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Partridges, Red-Legged.—These birds should be cooked according to the directions RED-LEGGED PARTRIDGE. given for the ordinary partridges. If they be hung a proper length of time they are very good, otherwise they are hard and tasteless. Probable cost uncertain, red-legged partridges being seldom offered for sale. Partridges, Roast.—Let the partridges hang as long as possible, or the flesh will be hard and flavourless. In cool weather they should be kept fully a fortnight before they are put down to the fire. They may be trussed either with or without the head, though the latter mode is at present more generally preferred. Pluck, singe, and draw the birds, and wipe them carefully, inside and out; cut off the heads, and leave enough skin on the neck to skewer them securely. Draw the legs close to the breast, pass the trussing-needle and string through the pinions and the middle joints of the thighs, and tie and skewer the legs. If the heads are left on, they should be brought round, and turned under the wing, with the bill laid on the breast. To give the birds a plump appearance, pass the needle through the back, below the thighs, then again through the body and legs, and tie the strings firmly. Put the PAR PAR birds down; before a clear -fire, baste liberally with butter @. quarter of a pound will be required for a brace), and a few minutes before they are taken up flour them well, so that they may brown nicely. The birds may be dished upon fried bread-crumbs, or upon a slice of buttered toast, which has been soaked in the gravy in the pan under the birds, or they may be put on a hot dish, and garnished with water- cresses. Brown gravy and bread-sauce should be sent to table with them; two or three thin slices of fat bacon, tied round the birds before they are put down to the fire, will greatly improve their flavour; when obtainable, a large vine-leaf may be laid on the breasts under the bacon. Time to roast a brace of partridges, thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 3s. per brace; but the price varies considerably. Suf- ficient for four or five persons. Partridges, Roast (a German recipe). —tTruss the partridges in the ordinary way. Place a vine-leaf upon the breast of each, | over this lay two or three thin slices. of fat bacon, and fasten these on securely with strong twine. Put the birds into a stewpan, just large enough to hold them, with as much butter as will keep them well basted, and when —— ZZ, CARVING OF PARTRIDGE. they are browned on one side turn them to the other, until they are equally coloured all over. ‘When they are done enough, pour a cupful of thick cream over them, and sprinkle bread- crumbs, browned in butter, upon them. Time, a ‘quarter of an hour to roast the birds. ' Pro- pable cost, 3s. per brace. Sufficient for four or five persons. ; ‘ Partridges, Roast, To Carve.—The partridge is cut up in the same way as a fowl (see Fowl, Roast, To Carve). The prime parts of a partridge are the wings, breast, and merry- thought. When the bird is small, the two latter are not often divided. The wing is considered the best, and the tip of it considered the most delicate morsel of the whole. “ Partridges,’ says Dr. Kitchener, “are cleaned and trussed in the same manner as a pheasant, but the ridi- culous custom of tucking the legs into each other makes them very troublesome ‘to carve. In connection with the subject of carving, it cannot be too often repeated, that more infor- mation will be gained by observing those who carve well, and by a little practice, than by any written. directions whatever.” Partridge Salad.—Roast partridges, and let them get cold; or cut and trim the remains of cold partridges into convenient-sized pieces. Put them into a dish or bowl, then sprinkle over these a little salt and cayenne, with a table-spoonful of minced parsley,.and, a table- spoonful of mixed. herbs, composed of, equal portions of tarragon, chervil, and chives. Add a.table-spoonful of good veal stock, three dessert- spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar,.and a quarter of a pint of salad-oil. Let the partridges lie in this marinade for two hours. Wash and dry ‘thoroughly three fresh lettuces, shred them finely, and lay. them on a dish. Drain the pieces of partridge, and put them on the lettuce, ornament the dish with dried capers, parsley, gherkins, hard-boiled eggs, anchovies, aspic jelly, or anything else that is pre- ferred, and just before-the salad is sent to table pour the seasoned mixture, in which the pieces were soaked, over it. Time to roast the partridges, about half an hour.. Probable cost of partridges, 3s. per brace. - ; Partridges, Salmi of (a la Chasseur).— Take cold roast partridge—if under-dresséd so much the better—cut into neat joints; remove the skin, fat, and sinew, and lay the pieces in a saucepan with four table-spoontuls of salad-oil, six table-spoonfuls of claret, the grated rind and strained juice of a large fresh lemon, and a little salt, pepper, and cayenne. Simmer gently for'a few minutes until the salmi is ‘hot throughout, then serve it immediately. Gar- nish with fried sippets. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for two persons. , : Partridges, Salmi of (a Ja Frangaise).— Roast a brace of well-hung young partridges, baste them liberally, and.take them down when they are only, three-parts cooked. Let them get cold; then cut them into neat joints, remove the skin, fat, and sinew, and put the. good parts aside, being careful to cover them, and keep them in a cool place to prevent their becoming hard. Melt three ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan. Put with it a dozen small mush- rooms, a scraped carrot, two sliced shallots, half a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, a handful of parsley-leaves, a medium-sized onion, stuck with two cloves, a small sprig of thyme, and four ounces of undressed lean ham, cut into small pieces. Stir these over a gentle fire until they are lightly browned, sprinkle over them’ a table-spoonful of flour, let it brown slightly, and then stir in, very gradually, a pint of good veal gravy and a glassful of sherry. Add the bones and trimmings of the birds, and boil the sauce gently until it is considerably reduced ; then strain it, let it boil up once more, putin the pieces of partridge, and when they are quite hot, dish’ the salmi, and serve imme- diately. Garnish the dish with toasted 'sippets. ‘When mushrooms cannot be obtained, their place may be supplied by a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Time, an hour and a half to simmer the sauce. Probable cost, ls, 6d., exclusive of the partridges. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. 5 Partridges, Salmi of (another way).— When the partridges are roasted expressly for the salmi they ought to be under-dressed, and they should not be cut up until they are quite cold. A very good salmi, how- ever, may be, made of the remains of cold partridge. Cut the birds into neat joints, PAR ( 512 ) PAS carefully remove the skin, fat, and sinew, and put the good pieces aside. Bruise the re- mainder, and put it, with the skin, bones, and trimmings, into a saucepan: Add two shallots, a bay-leaf, three or four sprigs of parsley, and an ounce of fresh butter, and stir these about over a gentle fire until they are lightly browned. Sprinkle over them a table-spoonful of flour, and pour in three-quarters of a pint of veal stock and a glassful of sherry ; put in half a dozen peppercorns, a little salt, and half a blade of mace, and simmer the gravy very gently until it is considerably reduced. Strain it, and let it boil up again; then put in the pieces of partridge, and when they are quite hot, serve on a hot dish, with the gravy poured over them. If liked, the livers of the birds may be pounded, and mixed with the sauce. Garnish with toasted sippets. Time, an hour and a half to simmer the gravy. Probable cost, 1s., exclusive of the partridge. Sufficient for two or three persons. Partridges, Salmi of, Cold.—Roast a brace of young partridges; cut them into neat joints, and lay them ona dish. Prepare the sauce according to the directions given in the last recipe. When it is sufficiently reduced, strain it, and dissolve in it a quarter of an ounce of gelatine, which has been soaked for half an hour in as much cold water as would cover it. Cover the joints of the partridges with the sauce, let it stiffen upon them, and then arrange them, piled high in a dish, and garnish with the savoury jelly, cut into rough pieces. Time, an hour and a half to simmer the sauce. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Partridges, Soup of.—Roast a brace of partridges before a brisk fire, so that they may brown quickly outside without losing their juice. Take them down when they are half dressed, cut off the breasts, and break up and bruise the bodies of the birds. Melt two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan; slice into it two young carrots and four or five sticks of celery, and add two ounces of un- dressed lean ham, an onion, stuck with four cloves, half a blade of mace, two shallots, a bay-leaf, four or five bunches of parsley, and a small sprig of thyme. Stir these over a gentle fire until the sides of the saucepan acquire a reddish-brown tinge, then add the bodies of the birds, and, gradually, two quarts of good stock and six ounces of brown thickening. Let the soup boil, remove the fat and the scum, and press it through a fine sieve. Put it again into the saucepan with the breasts of the birds, cut into small neat pieces, add a glassful of sherry, and a little salt and cayenne, if required ; let the soup get Gharouetily hot, without boiling, and serve immediately. A very nice soup may be made from grouse and partridge together ; or even from the remains of a cold roast grouse, stewed down with the partridges. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Partridges, Soup of (another way).— When partridges are too old to be satisfactorily cooked in any other way, they may be made into soup, but it must be understood that the soup will not be so good asif it were made from young birds. Skin the partridges and cut them into joints. Fry them in butter with two sliced onions until lightly browned. Put them into a saucepan with three ounces of undressed lean ham and four or five sticks of celery, and pour over them two quarts of good stock. Bring the soup to a boil, skim care- fully, then draw it to the side of the fire, and let it stmmer gently for an hour. At the end of that time put into it a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and stew another hour. Strain the soup, pick the meat from the birds, and pound it in a mortar toa smooth paste, and with it its bulk in bread, which has been soaked in stock and pressed very dry. Mix this gradually with the soup, pass it again through a sieve, put it into a saucepan, bring it to the point of boiling, and serve immediately. Probable cost, 1s. 10d. per quart. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Partridges, Stewed.—Truss a brace of partridges as if for boiling, put them into a stewpan, cover with boiling stock or water, and put with them two onions, two carrots, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a blade of mace, and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer gently until they are tender, then take out a pint of the liquid in which they were stewed, and make with it some celery, onion, or Soubise sauce. Serve the birds as hot as possible, with the purée poured over them. Time, about thirty minutes to stew the part- ridges. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Partridges Stuffed with Mushrooms. —Take a pint of small mushrooms, and clean them by rubbing the tops with a piece of flannel and a little salt; rinse in a little cold water, lift them out quickly, and spread them on a clean cloth to dry. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan over a slow fire, let it colour slightly, then throw in the mushrooms, sprinkle over them a little salt and cayenne, and shake the saucepan over the fire for ten minutes. Turn out the contents upon a dish, let them get cold, and, with them, stuff two young well-hung partridges. Sew up securely, truss firmly, and roast or stew the birds in the usual way; send mushroom sauce, or, if preferred, bread sauce, and gravy, to table with them. Time, half an hour or more to roast or to stew the partridges. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Passover Balls.—This is 4 name often given to forcemeat balls such as are used by the Jews; they are put into soup, and served with it. They are made as follows :— Put four table-spoonfuls of ‘‘matso-flour,” or Jewish flour, intoa bowl. Mix with it a pinch of salt, a little grated nutmeg, half a salt- spoonful of powdered ginger, and half a salt- spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind. Mix these dry ingredients thoroughly, then pour over them four ounces of beef suet, which has been steamed with a salt-spoonful of finely- minced onion, until it is entirely melted. Stir PAS ( 513 ) PAS the mixture briskly for a minute or two, and bind it together with three well-beaten eggs. Make it up into balls, and throw these into the boiling liquid. When they are done enough, lift them out carefully with a strainer, put them into the tureen, and pour the soup over them. Serve immediately. ‘Time to boil the balls, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 7d. Suffi- cient for half a dozen persons. ~ Passover Cakes.—Beat four fresh eggs thoroughly. Stir into them eight ounces of the peculiar flour which is used only in Jewish families. Add a pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of powdered loaf sugar, a quarter of a pint of milk, and a quarter of a pint of lukewarm water. Beat the mixture thoroughly, put it into a tin, and bake in a brisk oven. Pro- bable cost, 7d. Sufficient for two or three persons. : Paste.—Recipes for making the following pastes will be found under their respective headings :— ALMOND GaRLic ANCHOVY GERMAN APRICOT GoosEBERRY ApRIcoT, GREEN Tratian BriocuE, or French Lemon ror Dessert CHEESE , NoviILiEs CHERRY ORANGE, SEVILLE Cocoa-nutT Paté Bris&e CrRoQuANT Purr Currant Rice FarFerL Suort Fiour Tarr. Fruit Paste, Brioche.—Brioche paste may be served in a great variety of ways, all of which are excellent. It may be baked in one large cake; in fancy shapes, such as rings and twists; or in small loaves, rolls, or buns. Gruyére and Parmesan cheese or sweets may ‘be introduced into it, or small portions may be stewed in soup, or fried, or used as the outer PASTE-BOARD AND PIN. crust in which rissoles are cooked. Its most usual form, however, is that of a sort of double cake, the two parts being moulded separately, and moistened before they are joined, to cause them to adhere closely to one another. The upper portion of the brioche should be made smaller than the lower one, and the entire cake should be brushed over with beaten egg before it is put into the oven. When jam is put into brioches, it should be mixed with part of the 33—N.z. paste, and the rest rolled out, and put round it, so as to keep the fruit from boiling out. Cheese, on the contrary, should be well mixed with the paste, which should then be baked in the ordinary way. Gruyére cheese should be cut into small dice, and Parmesan cheese grated for this purpose. Brioche paste is best made on the evening of the day before it is wanted, as it requires to lie in a cool place for some hours before it is baked. Though delicious, it is considered rather indigestible. It must be baked in a well-heated oven. The quantity only which will be wanted for immediate use should be made at one time, as brioche paste will:not keep. When properly prepared it is light and springy to the touch before it is baked, and it ought to rise in the sponge to fully twice its original size. It is made as follows:—Take a pound (weighing sixteen ounces) of dried and sifted flour. Divide it into four parts, and with one of these parts make the leaven. To do this, put the flour into a bowl, make a hollow in the middle of it, and pour into this hollow half an ounce of German yeast dissolved in a spoonful or two of warm water. Add as much water as is required to make the whole into a soft smooth paste, gather it into a ball, and put it into a bowl large enough to contain three times its quantity. Score the paste lightly across the top with the blunt side of a knife, cover with a cloth, and put it in a warm place to rise; it will be ready in about twenty minutes. Whilst it is rising take the remaining three parts of the flour. Make a hole in the centre, and put into this hole a quarter of an ounce of salt, half an ounce of powdered sugar dissolved in two table-spoonfuls of tepid water, ten ounces of butter, which has been washed in two or three waters, squeezed in a cloth to free it from moisture, and broken into small pieces, and four eggs freed from the specks. Work all gently together with the fingers, and add one by one three more eggs, until the paste is quite smooth, and neither too hard to be worked easily nor so soft that it sticks to the fingers. "When the leaven is sufficiently risen, put it upon the paste, and mix both together with the fingers gently and thoroughly. Put the dough into a basin, and leave it in a warm place all night. Early on the following morning knead it up afresh, let it rise two hours longer, and knead once more before it is baked. Brioche paste should be put into a well-heated oven. Thetime required for baking depends, of course, upon the size of the cake. Its appearance will soon show when it is done enough. The materials here given, if baked in one cake, would require about half an hour. Probable'cost, 2s. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Paste for Common Pies.—Very ex- cellent pastry may be made with lard or ‘dripping, instead of butter, or with a mixture of lard and dripping. Good beef fat, or suet melted gently down, and poured off before it has had time to burn, is very nearly as good as anything that can be used for making pastry for everyday use. Very palatable pies may be made from the dripping from roast beef, veal, pork, or mutton, though the last named PAS ( 514 ) PAS -is thought by-some to impart a disagreeable . flavour of tallow to pastry. The quantity of fat used must, of course, be regulated by the . expense, and it may be remembered that a rich crust is neither so digestible nor so suitable for many dishes as a substantiai light one, and that the lightness of pastry. depends quite as much upon a light, quick, cool hand. as on a large -amount of butter or lard. The addition of a beaten egg or a little lemon-juice to the water, or a tea-spoonful of baking-powder to the flour, will make‘the paste lighter.. It should be remembered, however, .that though baking- powder is excellent for common pastry: that is -to be used immediately, pies are more likely to get dry quickly:-when it :is used. ..T'wo ‘recipes are here’ given for good: plain pastry,. ‘and'they may be: varied-according to. the taste and resources of the cook. eds ue _- Paste for Meat or Fruit. Pies, &e. —Mix the eighth part.of, a peck of flour with some cream and raw eggs. Add half a pound of butter broken in pieces, which must not be too small, and roll the paste lightly. _.To make paste for custards, mix the flour with boiling water and butter, sugar being added, if neces- sary. If this is done, it will be found to increase the stiffness of the paste. . (See also Crust, Dripping.) 5 ae Paste for Meat or Savoury Pies.— Sift two pounds of fine flour to one and a half of good salt butter, which has been’ broken’ up, and washed well in cold water; rub gently together the butter and flour, mix it up with the yolks of three eggs, beat together with a spoon, and nearly a pint of spring water; roll it out, double it in folds three times, and it is ready. Paste for Raised.-Pies.—In making - raised pies the first consideration is whether the -pastry is intended to be. eaten or not. If.it is intended merely to form.a mould in which to hold the meat, it may be made firm and oom- act without very much difficulty, and may be Pocesy with the rolling-pin or kneaded, with the knuckles to make it stiff and hard. If it is intended to be eaten, greater carp will be necessary. It must be remembered that small pies are much easier to. make than large ones, and the very easiest and best way for inexperienced persons to make them is to use one of the tin moulds manufactured for the purpose, which opens at the sides.. The French pastry named Paté Brisée, the recipe for which ‘is. given (see Crust, Paté Brisée),’ makes a good crust for small raised ,pies. When the pastry is not to be. eaten, dissolve three or four ounces of lard in half a pint of boiling water, and stir in as much flour as will make a stiff smooth paste.’ A little more than a pound of flour will be required. Knead it thoroughly with the fingers, and: when it is sufficiently firm to keep its form: when moulded, put it into a bowl, and cover. with a cloth until it is nearly cold.. Dredge a little flour on the pastry-board, put the pastry, upon it, and roll it with the hands into the,shape , of -a sugar-loaf or cone, with the diameter | of the lower part rather. less..than. the size required for the pie. Place the.cone upright, ‘and. flatten the top until it is half the height. Press it down with the knuckles of the right hand, at the same time forming the walls of the pie with the left. When the sides are smooth, and of equal thickness,, fill the pie, roll out the cover, lay it on, and make a hole in the centre. Fasten the edges securely with a little egg, ornament, the pie according to fancy, glaze it by brushing it over with the beaten yolk of an egg, and bake in a quick oven. An easier way of shaping a raised pie ‘is to roll out the pastry to the required thick- ness, and then cut out a piece for the top and bottom, and a long strip for the sides. These pieces must be fastened with egg, and the ‘edges pressed over one another, so as to be securely fastened. The pie may then be finished according to the directions given above. When the crust is intended to be eaten, the pastry may be made according to the directions given for Paté Brisée (see Crust, Paté Brisée), or, as follows:—Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into a pound of flour. Sprinkle over it a small tea-spoonful of salt. Put another quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan, with the third of a pint of milk. Stir it over a gentle fire until the butter is dissolved, then pour the liquid over the flour, and stir it to a smooth stiff paste. Dredge some flour over it; give it two or three turns, and mould it’ into the proper shape before it has had time to cool. Time to bake raised. pies, from two to five hours, according to size. Paste, French, for Meat Pies, Hot or Cold.—Put a-pound of flour into a bowl, and rub lightly into it half a pound of fresh butter. Add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and thake the mixture up into-a smooth. stiff paste, by stirring into it two fresh eggs which have been beaten up with rather less than a quarter of a pint of water. Roll the pastry out, give it ‘two or three turns, and bake as soon as possible. ma ten minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 8. 2d. Paste, Puff or Feuilletage.—This paste, though decidedly superior to every other kind.in appearance and taste, is rather indigestible for delicate persons. Good sweet ‘salt butter, which has been well washed in cold water, squeezed with the hands to free it ‘from the salt, and afterwards wrung in a cloth to take away all the moisture, is the best material which can be used for it. The consistency of the butter is of considerable importance. * If it is too hard, it will not easily mix with the flour, but if it is too soft, the paste will be entirely spoilt, in consequence of the butter breaking through the edges whilst it is being rolled. As the difficulty experienced is generally, to get.the butter sufficiently cool, many: cooks. place-it upon ice before. using -it for the pastry. In. hot weather, the paste should be placed on the floor for a few minutes, to: keep it cool between each turn. If very flaky pastry is required; the. paste may be brushed lightly: over each time it is rolled ‘with white of egg., In making puff paste pro- ceed as follows:—Dry . thoroughly and sift one pound of best flour. Put it on a marble PAS "(515 ) PAS slab or slate, if at hand—if not, on a ‘clean pastry-board—make a hole in the centre, and put into it half a tea-spoonful of salt, and rather less than half a pint of water. The exact quantity of water cannot be given, but ex- --perience will soon enable the cook to determine when the. paste is sufficiently stiff. It should -be mixed in gradually with a knife, and should . form:a clear smooth paste, being worked lightly . With the hands, until it ceases. to adhere to them or to the board. Let it remain onthe slab ‘for two minutes. : Have ready prepared. three- quarters of a pound of butter, Fed from salt and moisture. Flatten .the paste till it is an inch: thick, lay thé butter in the centre, and fold over the four, sides of the paste, so as. to form a square, and completely hide the butter. Leave this to cool for two or three minutes, then dredge the slab and the paste with flour, and roll the paste out till it is three feet in length, and be especially, careful that the butter does not break through the flour. (See what was said above on this subject.) Fold ‘over a third of the length from one end, and lay the other third upon it. This folding into three is called giving one turn. Put the paste in a cool place for ten minutes, give it two more turns, rest again, and let it have othertwo, This will be in all five turns, and these will generally be found sufficient. If; however, the pastry is to be’ used for vol-au-vents or patties, six or seven times will be required. Gather the paste together and it is ready for use, and may be used: at once, or left till next day. Handle it all the-time as lightly as possible, and remember ‘ to dredge a little flour over it, the board, and the rolling-pin every time it is rolled, to keep it from sticking. French cooks mix the yolks of two eggs with the flour and water in the first instance. If-a very rich paste is required, a pound of butter may be put with a pound of: flour. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. per pound. Paste; Puff (an easy way of making).— Dry and sift the flour, and prepare the butter as in the last recipe. Equal weights of. butter and flour: may be used, or three-quarters of a -pound: of butter to each pound of flour. Puta little salt into the flour, and make it. into ,a paste by stirring gradually into it with a knife rather Jless than half a pint of water. Roll it out till it is an inch thick. Divide the butter into “quarters: break one of these quarters into stnall pieces, and sprinkle these over .the paste. Dredge a little flour over it, and turn it over, then repeat the process, until all the butter is incorporated with the paste. Let the paste rest for ten minutes between each two rolls. Equal parts of lard and butter may be used for this paste, and if the yolk of an egg or the strained juice of half a lemon be mixed with the water in the first instance, the paste will be lighter. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. per pound (see also Puff Paste, Household). , Paste, Rich Cream, for Tarts.—Dry _and sift a pound of flour, and mix with it half ‘a stea-spoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of .. crushed loaf sugar. .” Rub into it a quarter of a pound of sweet butter, and mix gradually with it sufficient cream to make it into a smooth paste. If cream cannot be had, the yolks of two-eggs may be beaten up with a little milk, and substituted for it. Roll the paste out two or three times, and use as quickly.as possible. Probable cost, if made with cream, 1s, 6d. per pound. ? as le Faute, Serapa of, How to use.—If ‘any scraps or shreds of paste’ are left after making’ pies or turts, gather them into one lumip, ‘and roll this out until. it.is as thin as possible. |. Stamp it into fancy shapes, prick these lightly with a fork, place them on a baking-tin, and bake in a quick oven until they are firm, | without being browned. Sift powdered sugar over them, and serve prettily arranged round .a dish of stewed fruit. ‘Time, about, eight : minutes to bake, ‘Paste, Short, for Tarts and Fruit Pies.—Put a pound of dried .and ‘sifted: ‘flour into a bowl, and mix with it half a tea-spoonful “of salt and-a table-spoonful of powdered sugar. Rub half a pound of butter, or butter‘and lard, ‘into! the flour, ‘and'‘make it into a, paste by ‘stirring in rather more than'a quarter of a pint -of water or milk: the‘yolks of two eggs may be added or not: Roll -the paste out once only; handle it lightly, and use it as requiréd, Probable cost; 10d. per pound. mae Paste, Short, for Tarts and Fruit Pies (another way).—-Mix a small tea-spoonful of salt with a pound of dried flour. Rub in four ounces of butter and four ounces of lard or good beef dripping. Add a tea-spoonful.of baking powder, and a table-spoonful of powdered sugar. Make the whole into a stiff paste by stirring in a little water, .voll it. out lightly once only, and it is ready for use. Time, ten minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 9d. - Paste, Short, for Tarts and Fruit Pies (another way).—To one pound and ‘a quarter of fine flour add ten-ounces’ of fresh butter, the yolks of two beaten eggs, and three ounces of sifted loaf sugar; mix “up together with half 4 pint of new milk, and‘knead it well. This crust is frequently iced. — . : Paste, Suet, for Boiled Puddings. | —Chop very finely six ounces of beef suet, freed from skin and sinew, and whilst chopping it keep. dredging a little flour over it. Mix with it one pound of flour, and add as much. cold water as will make the mixture up Into _a@ firm smooth paste.’ Roll it out, and it is. ready for use. If a richer crust be required, a larger proportion of suet may be used, but this is quite good enough for ordinary pur- poses. Time, ten minutes to prepare. Pro- bable cost, 4d. i Paste, Suet, for Boiled Puddings (another way) _—Pick and chop very fine a pound of beef, suet, add to it one pound and a quarter of flour, and a little salt; mix it with half a pint of milk-or water, and beat it well. with the rolling-pin, to incorporate.the suet. with the flour. : ' Paste, Transparent, for Tarts, &e. —Wash three-quarters of a pound of best salt. butter in two or three waters, and press it well to free it from moisture. Put:it in a saucepan over a gentle fire, until it is melted without PAS ( 516 ) PAS being oiled, then sot it aside, and when it is nearly cold, stir into it a well-beaten egg and a pound of dried and sifted flour. Roll it out till it is very thin, line the tartlet-tins with it as quickly and lightly as possible, brush them over with water, sift powdered loaf sugar upon them, and bake in a moderate oven for about ten minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Pastry.—In making pastry, the first thing to be remembered is that every article used in its preparation should be scrupulously clean ; and in order to insure this it is best to have all the utensils washed and thoroughly dried directly after they are used, and dusted when they are again required. In addition to this there must be good materials, a well regulated oven, a cool room, and a cook who brings to her work a cool, light, quick hand, close attention, and a little experience. There are four principal kinds ef pastry: puff paste, or feuilletage; short crust, for family use; standing crust, for meat and fish pies; and brioche paste, which is a sort of dough used for loaves, rolls, and buns. As cool hands are required, it is best to wash them in water as hot as can be borne a minute or two before making the pastry. The heat of the oven should in most cases be moderate, and the door should be only opened when it is absolutely necessary during the process of baking. The best way of ascertaining if the oven is properly heated, is to bake a small piece of pastry in it before putting in the pie or tart. Standing crusts require a quicker oven than ordinary pastry. In all cases wetting the pastry much will make it tough. Pastry Cream, for Garnishing Tartlets and other Pastry.—Rub ‘together one ounce of flour and a well-beaten egg. When quite smooth, add a small pinch of salt, one ounce of powdered and sifted sugar, and a quarter of a pint of milk, and stir the mixture over the fire until it boils. Draw the ‘saucepan to the side, cover closely, and let the contents simmer gently for a quarter of an hour; then turn the mixture into a bowl, and add to it the yolks of two eggs and a table-spoonful of powdered ratafias, with any additional flavouring that may be liked. Put a lump of butter the size of a small egg into a saucepan, place it on a gentle fire. As soon as it is lightly coloured stir it into the flavoured cream. When cold it is ready for use. Probable cost, 6d. Pastry, Glazing of.—Glazed pastry is generally used for meat pies or raised pies. If it is wished to give a deep glaze to the pie, beat the yolk of an egg thoroughly, and when the pastry is almost done enough, take it out of the oven and brush it lightly over with the egg, then put it in again a minute or two toset. If a lighter glaze is required, brush the pie with the whole of the egg, to which a spoonful of milk may be added, or not. Time, five or six minutes to set the glaze. Probable cost, 1d. The yolk of one egg will be enough to glaze three or four pies. Pastry, Good Plain.—Mix a tea- spoonful of salt with a pound of four. Rub in a quarter of a pound of rather soft lard or dripping, until the ingredients are thoroughly blended, then add two tea-spoonfuls of baking- powder. Draw the mixture to one side of the bowl, pour a little water into the vacant space, and with four fingers work the ingredients to a soft paste. Lift the pastry out in small quantities as it acquires the proper consistency. Roll it out till sufficiently thick to spread another four ounces of lard upon it, dredge a little flour on it, give it one or two turns, and it is ready for use. This pastry requires a quick oven. Time, ten minutes to make. Probable cost, 6d. Pastry, Good Plain (another way).—Mix a tea-spoonful of salt with a pound of fiour. Rub in lightly six ounces of butter or lard, or half butter and half lard, and stir water in briskly with a fork. When the mixture is smooth and compact, roll it out two or three times, and it is ready for use. Time, ten minutes to make. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Pastry, Iced.—Iced pastry is generally used for fruit tarts and sweet dishes; there are two or three ways of doing it. First—beat the white of an egg to a firm froth When the pastry is almost done enough take it out of the oven, brush it over with the egg, cover it with powdered sugar, sprinkle a few drops of water upon it, and return it to the oven for a few minutes to harden, taking care that it, does not colour. Or—mux half a pound of powdered. and sifted sugar with the white of an egg, beaten to a firm froth, and two table-spoonfuls of cold water; keep stirring until the icing is used. When the pastry has been baked, and is nearly cold, brush it over with the icing, and put it into a cool oven to harden. Or— moisten the pastry with cold water before baking it, and press a thick coating of powdered sugar lightly upon it. Pastry, Plaits of (sce Plaits of Pastry). Pastry Powder, or Baking Powder. —Take an equal bulk, not weight, of tartaric acid, carbonate of soda, and ground rice. Mix thoroughly. Roll the mixture with the rolling- pin to free it from lumps, and keep it in a closely-stoppered wide-mouthed bottle until wanted. When making common pastry, put a tea-spoonful of the powder with every pound of flour, and in making cakes allow a heaped tea-spoonful to every pound of material. This powder will make the pastry lighter, and render it also more digestible. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 1s. per pound, Pastry Ramakins.—Roll out evenly and thinly a quarter of a pound of good puff paste. Sprinkle over it a little finely-grated Parmesan, fold, roll it again, and sprinkle a little more cheese upon it; then roll it out once more, stamp it into any fancy shapes, and brush over with yolk of egg. Put the rama- kins on a buttered baking-tin, and bake them in a brisk oven. Serve as hot as possible. These ramakins should be served with cheese. Time, about a quarter of an hour to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. PAS (517) A PAT Pastry Sandwiches.—Roll out some good puff paste till it is as thin as a wafer, and cut it into two pieces the same size and shape. Lay one of these on a buttered baking-tin, and spread over it lightly some fine fruit jelly. Place the other piece of pastry on the top, press it lightly with the fingers, mark it in squares where it is afterwards to be cut, and bake it in a moderate oven. Sift powdered sugar over the sandwiches before serving them, and arrange them on a neatly-folded napkin, or cut them when cold into narrow strips, pile them in .a circle on a dish, and pour whipped cream into the middle of them. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, without the cream, 8d. Sufficient, a quarter of a pound of paste will make a nice supper dish. Pastry Sandwiches (another way).— Roll out two squares, one of almond paste and the other of puff paste, to the same size and thickness. Lay the puff paste upon the almond paste, press them lightly with the fingers, and cut them out together into shapes, Brush beaten egg over them, sprinkle powdered sugar upon them, and bake them in a moderate oven. Time, about twenty minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2d. each. Pasty, Forcemeat of (see Forcemeat of Pasty). Pasty of Fresh or Preserved Fruit. —A pasty is distinguished from a pie or a tart, because it has pastry both under and above the fruit. It may be baked either with or without a plate. When no dish is used, roll the pastry out thin, and stamp it into a small round shape, spread the jam, or slice the fruit, upon half the round, and turn the other half over it. Moisten the edges with a little water, press them securely together, and bake the pasties in a moderate oven. Sprinkle powdered sugar over before serving. Time to bake, according to size. A pasty made of fresh fruit will require baking a little longer than one made of jam. Past ister Paté Brisée (see Crust, Paté Brisée). Paté de Gibier, or Game Paté, Su- perlative.—Bone four partridges, or if they are to be had, take two partridges and two grouse; variety is always acceptable in game pasty. Cut up a hare, and season it as well as the partridges with salt and cayenne. Put inside each of the partridges a good-sized truffle and a portion of forcemeat, prepared as follows: Mince finely and separately, and then mix thoroughly, one pound of calf’s liver, and the livers of the birds and the hare, all of which must be cooked apart ; add three pounds of fat bacon. Season this mixture with salt, cayenne, and mixed savoury herbs, pound it in a mortar, and afterwards mix with it a pound and a half of truffles. Make some pastry, and mould it to the proper shape, according to the directions already given (see Paste for Raised Pies) ; cover the bottom of the pie with a layer of slices of fat bacon, place upon this half the hare and half the forcemeat, then put in the partridges, two Potato Pasty, Potato (see with their breasts upwards and two with their breasts downwards, place the remainder of the hare and the forcemeat upon them, and cover the whole with a good slice of bacon fat and two bay-leaves. Put the lid on the pie, ornament it prettily, and bake it in a good oven for four hours or more. When it has been drawn from’ the oven, and is almost cold, pour into it, through a hole made in the centre of the lid, a quarter of a pint of dissolved gravy-jelly, which has been made by stewing the bones in water and mixing the stock with a little isin- glass or gelatine. Probable cost, varying with the price of the game. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Paté of Fish.—Boil and mash smoothly, with an ounce of butter and a spoonful of milk or cream to each pound, as many potatoes as will make a border about three inches high within the rim of the dish which it is intended to use; three pounds of potatoes will be suffi- cient for a moderate-sized dish. Raise this border, ornament it in any fanciful way, then brush -it over with beaten egg, and put it in a hot oven until it is lightly browned. Have ready some hot crab, or ‘some fish stewed in sauce, and when the potatoes are coloured put in the preparation, and serve very hot. To prepare the fish—Take two pounds of cold boiled fish, which has been picked care- fully from the bones and broken into small pieces, warm these in a pint of good white sauce, nicely flavoured and seasoned; stir it gently over the fire until the fish is hot, then turn the whole into the hollow in the centre of the potatoes. If no stock is at hand, the white sauce may be made as follows:—Simmer the bones of the fish, with a handful of parsley, an onion, stuck with one clove, half a blade of mace, and a pint of water, until the liquid ie. reduced one-half; strain it, and mix with it fou table-spoonfuls of thick cream, season with salt and cayenne, and thicken with a little flour and butter. It is then ready for the fish. To prepare the crab—Pick the meat from the shell, mix with it the eighth of its bulk in finely-grated bread-crumbs, and season with salt, cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg. Pound the mixture in « mortar, moisten with a little gravy, which has been thickened with flour and butter, add a table-spoonful of sherry, . and stir the preparation over the fire until it is quite hot ; squeeze the juice of a small lemon over it, and it is ready for use. Time to warm the fish in the sauce, until it is quite hot, with- out boiling. Probable cost, according to the nature of the fish. Sufficient for five or six persons. Paté of Foies Gras.—These pasties, so highly esteemed by epicures, are made at Stras- burg, and thence exported to various parts. They are prepared from the livers of geese, which have been tied down for three or four weeks to prevent them moving, and forcibly compelled to swallow, at intervals, a certain amount of fattening food. When they have become so fat that they would die in a short time, they are killed, and their livers, which have become very rich, fat, and pale during the process, are used for the above A PAT piirpose. These patés are very expensive. A. g60d imitation of them may be made ‘without ' subjecting the unfortunate ‘geese’ to the! crtelties ‘described by’ following ‘the “direc-:: tions here given :—Take the livers from three ' fine fat geese, such as are ordinarily "brought to: : market, and in drawing the birds be careful not to break: the gall-bag, as the contents. would | impart ‘a bitter taste to the livers. -Carefully: remove any ‘yellow spots theré thay be! upon them, and lay the livers in milk for six or: eight: hours to whiten; cut them in’ halves, and put three halves’ aside for forcémeat. Soak, wash, and scrub, and peel three-quarters of a pound of truffles, carefully preserving the cuttings. Slicea third of them into narrow strips, like lardoons, and stick them, into the re- mainder of the livers three-quarters of an inch apart; sprinkle over them a little ,pepper, salt, and spice, and put them in a cool place until the, forcemeat is made. Mince finely, first separately and afterwards together, a pound of fresh bacon;a.third of the truffles, the halves of tho livers that were put away. for.the purpose, two shallots, and eight or ten, button mush- rooms; season the mixture with plenty of pepper and salt, two or three grates of nutmeg, and half a salt-spoonful of powdered mar- joram, and keep chopping until if is quite smooth. Make the paste according to the direc- tions given in Paste for Raised Pies (see Paste for. Raised Pies). Cover the bottom of the pie with thin rashers of ham,.fat and lean together; spread evenly on these, one-half of the forcemeat, then put in the three livers, with the slices of truffle stuck,in them, and afterwards the remainder of the forcemeat. Intersperse amongst the contents of the pie the remaining quarter of a pound of truffles, and cover the whole with two or three more slices of ham’ or bacon. Put the cover on the pie, ornament as fancy dictates, brush it over with beaten.eg¢, make a hole in the centre for | the steam to escape, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, two hours or more. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient fora dozen persons. ‘ Paté of Foies Gras, Mock. (se Calf’s Liver).'.- . Paté of Macaroni.—Put six ounces of the best macaroni into a saucepan, with a moderate-sized onion and three pints of boiling water, seasoned with half a salt-spoonful of salt and half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and let it simmer gently for twenty minutes; drain it well, put it back into the saucepan, with half a pint of broth, and let it simmer again until the onion is absorbed and the maca- roni tender, but unbroken. Place a layer at the bottom of a deep pie-dish, sprinkle over it a dessert-apoonful of grated Parmesan, and. put little piecés of butter here and there upon it; cover it with beef-steak which has been seasoned rather highly, stewed until tender-in good brown gravy, and then cut into small thin pieces. A pound of beef-steak will be sufficient for. this quantity of macaroni. If preferred, fricasseed chicken, minced veal, sweetbread ‘cut into dice,. or mushrooms, may be substituted for the beef,.. but they must all be stewed in rich gravy before ( 518 ) PAT they are put with the macaroni, Fill.up the dish with alternate layers | of; maegroni’ dnd - meat,'and let the uppermbst layer.be conrposed of macaroni; sprinkle an ounce.:of Parmesan over thetop; and pour over ‘it Half. an ounce.of . clarified butter, then put the dish :into’a Dutch oven, hefore a clear fire, or into the oven, and when. the cheese is dissolved the -paté is ready for serving. Time to bake,'five or six minutes. Probable ‘cost, 2s.,if made -with: steak. «:Suffi- cient for four or five persons, 6, Pationce.—Patience is the name of a: lant : which tone resembles’ spinach, and which is easily cultivated and very productive, though it has of late years fallen into’ comparative disuse. As it is particularly mild in flavour, theaddition to it, at the time of cooking, of a small propor: tion of sorrel, or.of ‘true spinach, will be founda greatimprovement. It is prepared as.follows ix, Tear: the mid-rib out of each dead, leaving only the green parti: Wash the leaveyin two or three . waters to free-them from grit, put, them, into a very large saucepan, with half a pint of water, or ; just sufficient to keep them from burning, press them down well with a wooden spoon, and, let.. them boil until they are. perfectly tender, then, drain them thoroughly, and mash them, well, : seasoning them with pepper and salt. Put them into a clean saucepan, with a little. butter, and stir the preparation over the fire until it is- quite hot. - Put it on a.hot: dish, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread, Time to..boil, _ ten minutes: » Probable cost uncertain, patience .. being seldom: offered for sale... Sufficient,.a., pailful.for,three,or four persons. , 9.) Patissiore, Cream (se Cream Patissiére). Patties.—Recipes for making the following patties will be found under their respective headings :—~ — ie Hoga Brer ~» Macaroni- CHEESE Marrow CHICKEN ~ “Mrat DrespENn MINcE FoR EEL Mutton tf Fisu OysTERS GamME OysTERs WITH Ham AND CHICKEN Musurooms , 2 Ham anp Ecos SHRIMPS JAM SweEer Lemon TURKEY Loxster | | VEAL. Patties, Fried.—Prepare some good puff paste, and roll it out tothe thickness of about a quarter of an.inch, stamp it with a pastry- cutter into rounds an, inch and three-quarters in diameter, place a tea-spoonful of minced meat between two of these, moisten the edges, pinch them securely, and |fry them in plenty of fat until they..are crisped and. lightly. browned. They, should be. placed in a wire, drainer, plunged: into! the fat when: it.’ is., boiling, and well drained from-it before they are served. The following is one amongst | many of the preparations which may be put into the patties :—Mince finely six ounces of cold dressed veal, and twelve ounces of boiled ham; add an egg, boiled hard and chopped small, and season the mixture with a little pepper, salt, powdered mace, and grated, lemon-rind; . PAT ( 519 ). PEA moisten it: with a table-spoonful of thick cream and one of good gravy. It will then be ready for use. ‘Time to fry the patties, twelve to fifteen minutes. ‘Probable cost,.2d. each. A dozen are required for a dish. Patties, Fried Bread.—Cut three or four slices,an inch anda half thick, from a stale: quartern loaf.: That called by bakers a sand-: wich loaf answers excellently for the purpose. Cut the slices into rounds an inch and three- quarters in diameter, and make a tolerably deep incision at one end, a quarter of an inch from the edge, to mark the lid and the part which is afterwards to be scooped out for the admission of the meat. Fry the bread in plenty of boiling fat or dripping until it is lightly browned all over, drain it from the fat, take off the top, and remove the crumb from the middle, and put in its place the prepared meat. Serve on a neatly- folded napkin. Fry until the patties are equally and lightly browned all over. Time to fry, about twelve minutes. Probable cost of cases, ld. each. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. Patties, Gravy for (see Gravy for Patties). | ° Patties, Monks’.— Make some . good puff paste, and. line as many patty-moulds as are required, according to the directions. already: given. Pare a large truffle, and mince it very finely; mix with it. the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs cut into dice, half.a salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of | pepper, and as:much powdered mace as "would cover a threepenny-piece. Moisten the mixture with a table-spoonful of thick cream. Puta small portion into each patty, place the cover on the top, press the edges securely, and pinch them with a pincers. oven. If preferred, half a dozen button mush- rooms, stewed in butter, and afterwards chopped Bake in a tolerably brisk, small, may be used instead of the truffle.’ Time | to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. each. This quantity is sufficient for three or four patties. Patties, Preparation of.—Patties may either be baked in patty-pans or without them. They are usually made with puff paste, and filled with savoury ingredients of various kinds. a’ brisk oven. If made in patty-pans, lightly They should be baked in grease the pans: Make the pastry according to the directions given for puff paste, and roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Line the moulds with this, fill them with flour, or place a crust of bread in the middle of them, put on the cover, trim the pastry evenly with the moulds, moisten the edges, press them together, and mark them with the prongs of a fork, or with scissors. Bake in a moderate oven. When done enough, raise the covers, take out the crusts, and return the patties to the oven | for a minute or two to dry. Before serving, put the proper meat into the place where the ‘bread has been. ‘When made without moulds, | roll out the paste as before, and cut it into an equal number of rounds, an inch and three- quarters in diameter.. Place half of these on a buttered baking-tin, moisten the edges, place a tea-spoonful of the proper forcemeat in the. centre of each, and cover it with another of the rounds, press. the. edges. securely;. brush them over with beaten egg, and bake in a. brisk oven. “Patties, whether served hot.or. cold;.should be arranged: on a folded napkin... Time to bake, . twelve to fifteen minutes. is ’ ‘ .. Patty-pans (sec illustration accompanying the article on Almond Puffs). : Peach.—The peach is amongst the most delicious: and- most highly-esteemed of our fruits. It differs from the neéctarine in being covered with a soft down. This fruit, both when fresh and when’ preserved, is ‘excellent ‘for the table. The young’ leaves and the kernels ‘possess an agreeable flavour, ‘and .may be. used in cookery'‘for flavour- ing purposes. When a peach is of superior quality and in good condition the ‘skin is thin, and very lightly covered with down, the stone small, the pulp firm though full of a delicious juice, and the colour deep and bright:.on one side (see also Nectarines and Peaches)... Peach Cakes (a pretty dish for a Juvenile Party).—Divide: carefully the yolks from the -and mix with them six ounces of finély- powdered and sifted loaf sugar, 4 small pinch of salt, and a few drops of almond fldvour- i muneter of an hour, then dredge ‘in gradually six ounces of fine flour, and afterwards the whites of the eggs, which have been whisked to a solid froth. “Beat the mixture five minutes longer, then drop it, in small rounds of uniform size, either upon a buttered and floured baking- ‘tin or upon a sheet of thick cartridge ‘paper ;' ,whites of four eggs; beat the yolks thoroughly, ” . ‘Beat these ingredients thoroughly'for a’ ie ,bake in a brisk oven until they are lightly” browned. | watched or they will be too highly coloured. When they are sufficiently baked, spread a little’ “The cakes must ‘be carefully" peach jam upon the under parts, ard stick the’ icakes together in two, so that they will re-" semble as nearly as possible a peach in size and shape. Cover them over very thinly with a, little white icing, madé by beating the whites of. .two eggs to a firm froth, and then mixing with them half a pound of finely-sifted loaf sugar and a few drops of lemon-juice, the whisking being continued until the liquid looks thick, smooth, and white. Let the icing dry, and, if liked, . ‘brush over one side of the cakes with, a little water, coloured with cochineal, to make them ‘look,more like peaches. Serve the cakes neatly arranged on a glass dish, with whipped cream . in, the centre. Time to bake, eight to twelve ‘minutes. Probable cost,.2s. 6d. per pound. put them, with the fruit, into a stewpan, witha ‘syrup, made by boiling six ounces of loaf sugar in half » pint of water until the:sugar is dis-, solved. Stir the contents of the saucepan over the fire until the fruit is reduced to, pulp, then ‘press it through a hair sieve into a-basin. Add ‘three-quarters of an ounce of gelatine, dissolved }4n half a pint of water, a pint of whipped ‘ream, and three or four drops of. propared ‘cochineal. Put the cream into an ice-mould that. has a cover, and when it begins to thicken 4! Sr Se ‘ | ‘Peach Cream Icé.—Divide twelve ripe : | ‘peaches into halves, blanch the kernels, and PEA ( 520 ) PEA stir it well. When it is quite thick put on the cover, and spread some butter over the opening, so that no water may get into it. Let the ice and saltpetre be at least three inches thick around the mould. When quite firm the peach ice is ready for serving, but should remain till wanted. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per pint, with peaches 2d. each. Sufficient for nearly three pints of ice. Peach Cream Ice (another way).—Boil a dozen ripe peaches in syrup, and rub them through a sieve, as directed in the last recipe, Mix with the pulp a custard, made of half a pint of milk, the yolks of six eggs, and three ounces of sugar. Add two or three drops of cochineal to impart a pink tinge to the prepara- tion, and freeze as directed in the preceding recipe. It may remain in the ice till wanted. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per pint, with peaches 2d. each. Sufficient for a quart of ice. Peach Fritters. —Make a smooth batter as follows :—Mix four ounces of fine flour and a small pinch of salt with two table-spoonfuls of oil,'or one ounce of dissolved butter, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Add very gradually one gill of tepid water, and beat the mixture with the back of a wooden spoon until it is smooth and thick. Put it aside for an hour or two, and twenty minutes before it is used add the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a firm froth. Skin, halve, and stone a dozen ripe peaches, dip them into the batter, and fry in boiling fat until they are crisp and lightly coloured. Drain them well, and serve piled on a dish, with a little whipped cream round them. If preferred, the cream may be omitted, and the fritters served on a napkin, with powdered sugar strewn thickly over them. Time to fry the fritters, eight or ten minutes; to drain them, five minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Peach Jam or Marmalade. — Take the peaches when quite yipe; skin, stone, and divide them into quarters, put these into a preserving-pan, and stir the fruit over the fire until it is quite soft. Rub the pulp through a coarse sieve, beat it well until no lumps remain, weigh it, and mix with it an equal weight of powdered loaf sugar and a fourth part of the kernels, blanched and bruised. Boil the mixture for a quarter of an hour, stirring and skimming constantly. Pour the jam into jars, cover these in the usual way, and store in a cool, dry place. Time, about half an hour to reduce the peaches to pulp; a quarter of an hour to boil them with the sugar. Pro- bable cost, uncertain. Peach Jelly.—Peel, divide, and stone a dozen ripe peaches, and boil them and the bruised kernels for a quarter of an hour, in a thin syrup, made of ten ounces of sugar and half a pint of water. Flavour the syrup with the grated rind and strained juice of four lemons, strain it through a jelly-bag, and add to it an ounce of dissolved isinglass or gelatine. Pour it into a mould, which should be set upon ice until the jelly is sufficiently stiff to turn out. The fruit from which this jelly is made may be served as a compote, with a little red currant-juice added to the syrup. Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer the fruit. Pro- bable cost, 2s. a pint. Sufficient for a quart mould. Peach Water Ice.—Pare, stone, and quarter half a dozen ripe peaches. Put them in a syrup, made by boiling a pound of loaf sugar, with a pint of water, the white of an egg, beaten to a firm froth, and one peach kernel, for five minutes. Let the peaches simmer until they are quite soft. Press them through a fine hair sieve, and add to the liquid the strained juice of two small fresh lemons and two or three drops of cochineal. Freeze in the usual way. ‘Time to boil the peaches, varying with the quality. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. with peaches at 2d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peaches, Bottled.—Pare, halve, and stone the peaches. Place the halves in per- fectly dry wide-mouthed bottles, and cover them entirely with a thick syrup, made by boiling a pound of loaf sugar in three-quarters of a pint of water until the sugar is dissolved. Cork the bottles, and tie them down. Wrap a wisp of hay round them to prevent their knocking against each other, and place them side by side in a deep stewpan, with cold water up to their necks. Let the peaches boil gently for a quarter of an hour after the. water has reached the boiling point, then lift the saucepan from the fire, and do not remove the bottles until the water is almost cold. Seal the corks, and store in a cool dry place. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches, Brandied.—Stew some very fine, ripe, well-flavoured peaches, in a syrup of seven ounces of sugar to half a pint of water, turning them often. When tender, put them, with the syrup, into new jars or wide- mouthed glass bottles, leaving space on the top for brandy, which should be poured in when the fruit is quite cold. A few peach or apricot kernels may be blanched and added before the bottles are corked. Average cost of peaches, 2s. per dozen (see also Peaches Preserved in Brandy). Peaches, CompSte of.—Divide six or eight ripe peaches into halves. Make a syrup, by boiling six ounces of loaf sugar in half a pint of water for eight minutes. Put in the fruit, and let it simmer gently for five minutes. Drain the peaches from the syrup, take off their skins, and put them into a compéte dish. Add to the syrup a dessert-spoonful of lemon- juice, or, if procurable, two table-spoonfuls of red currant-juice. When lemon-juice is used, two or three drops of cochineal should also be added, to colour the syrup slightly. Let it boil three or four minutes longer, then pour it over the peaches. Blanch three or four of the kernels, split them in four, and place a quarter here and there upon the fruit. Serve either hot or cold. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost of peaches, 2d.to 6d. each. Suffi- cient for six or eight persons. Peaches, Compéte of (another way).— Boil together for ten minutes half a pint of water and five ounces of sugar. Let the sugar PEA ( 521 ) PEA be of the best. Put half a dozen fine ripe peaches into the syrup. Take off the skins, and remove the stones if their absence is de- sired. Simmer very gently for about twenty minutes, but not so long if the fruit be divided to take out the stones. Put the fruit on a dish; but reduce the syrup by fast boiling, and boil a few of the kernels, blanched, with it. Serve either hot or cold. Peaches, Compdte of (another way). —Pare, halve, and stone half a aozen ripe peaches, and simmer until they are soft enough to be pierced by a needle, in a syrup, made by boiling a quarter of a pound of sugar in half a pint of water for a quarter of an hour. "When done enough, put them into a dish, and pour half the syrup over them. Throw into the other half of the syrup two pounds of ripe peaches, which have been pared, cored, and sliced; add four ounces of sugar and a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and simmer the fruit, stirring it constantly, until it is reduced to a firm, smooth, dry pulp. Spread half of this in a smooth layer at the bottom of a glass dish, pile the stewed peaches in the centre, fill the spaces between them with the remainder of the marmalade; then reduce the half of the syrup which was first taken out until it is quite thick, and pour it upon the fruit. Garnish the dish with macaroons, blanch and slice the kernels, and strew them equally over the surface. Time to prepare, one hour or more. Probable cost, 3s. or 4s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Peaches, Flanc of; or Peaches in a Raised Crust.—Make three-quarters of a pound of good short crust, and roll it out until-it is half an inch thick. Butter well the inside of a mould, and line it with the crust, pressing the crust so that it may take the form of the mould. Pinch the part that rises above the mould with the pincers, fill the case with flour, and bake in a moderate oven. When the crust is firm, remove the flour, carefully take the case out of the mould, and put it into the oven a few minutes longer to dry. Divide a dozen peaches into halves, boil them until tender in a syrup made of six ounces of loaf sugar and half a pint of water. When they are sufficiently cooked, lift them out one by one, and put them into the case. Boil the syrup a few minutes longer, add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, colour with a little cochineal, let it cool, then pour it over the fruit. A few of the kernels, blanched and quartered, may be introduced, if liked. Time, about one hour to bake the flanc; twenty minutes to prepare the fruit. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Peaches, Pickled.—Take a dozen sound peaches which have been gathered before they are fully ripe. Rub them well with a soft cloth, and put them into a brine made by boiling a pound of salt in three quarts of water for one minute. Skim the liquid carefully, pour it, when. cold, over the peaches, put a thin board on the top to keep them under the water, and let them remain for three days. At the end of that time lift them out carefully, put them into a large earthenware jar, and pour over them a pickle prepared as follows:—Boil half a gallon of vinegar with a quarter of a pound of bruised ginger, a dessert-spoonful of salt, three large blades of mace, one pound of mustard, a quarter of a pound of whole pepper, and a tea-spoonful of cayenne tied in muslin. Skim the liquid care- fully, and pour it, when boiling, upon the peaches. Cover the jar with a bladder, and store in a cool dry place. The pickled peaches will be ready for use in nine or ten weeks. If it is wished to pickle the peaches as an imitation of pickled mangoes, take each peach singly, after it has been drained from the brine, and cut out of the stalk end a round piece, an inch in diameter, draw out the stone, and put in its place a little fresh mustard-seed which has been washed in vinegar and flavoured with a finely-minced. shallot and a pinch of cayenne. Put the piece back again, and secure it in its place with strong thread; then proceed according to the directions given above. Time, ten minutes to boil the vinegar with the spices. Probable cost. of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches, Pickled (another way).—Take the peaches when they are sound, but not over- ripe. Rub the down from them, and stick five cloves into each peach. Place them side by side in a deep jar, and pour over them as much hot pickle as will cover them, made by boiling one pound of moist sugar with each quart of vinegar. Set the jar aside for ten days, then drain off the vinegar; let it boil once more, skim it well,and again pour it upon the peaches. Let them get quite cold, then lift them care- fully into glass or earthenware jars, cover them with the vinegar, and tie down securely. Store in a cool dry place. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches Preserved in Brandy.— Gather the peaches when they are perfectly sound, but fully ripe. Make as much syrup as will cover them, boiling ten ounces of loaf sugar with every three-quarters of a pint of water until the sugar is dissolved. Pare the peaches, put them into the syrup, and simmer gently until they are so tender that a needle can be easily passed through them. As they reach this condition, lift them out one by one with a skimmer, and put them carefully into the jar intended for them, which they must only half fill. Pour the syrup over them, and within two inches of the top, add a few of the blanched kernels, and when the syrup is cold fill up the jar with brandy. Oork closely, and cover the corks with bladder. It is well to examine the jars occasionally, and as the fruit absorbs the brandy to add more. If it should happen that the peaches are not quite ripe, pour boiling water over them, and keep them near the fire until the skin can be easily drawn eff. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches Preserved in Brandy (ano- ther way).—Put the peaches into cold water, and simmer them very -gently until they begin to soften. Lift them out carefully one by one, drain them, and when they are cold put them into glass jars. Crush a pound and a half of white sugar-candy to powder. Dissolve it ina PEA ( 522 ) PHA pint of brandy, and fill up the glasses with the syrup. Cork and’ seal the jars, and store ina cool dry place. Examine the jars occasionally, and as'the fruit absorbs the brandy add a little more, Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches Preserved Whole.— This preserve is best made in the early part of Octo- ber. Gather the peaches before they are fully ripe, wipe the down from them, put them into a deep pan, pour boiling water over them, cover them over, and let them remain near the fire, though not upon it, for an hour; then take out the peaches, put them in a bowl of cold water, and in a quarter of an hour take off the skins, push out the stones, and weigh the fruit. Take an equal weight of loaf sugar, dip each lump separately into water, put it into @ preserving-pan, and then boil the moistened sugar gently until you have a clear syrup. Put the peaches in carefully with the blanched kernels, let them simmer for six minutes, then lift them out with a skimmer, put them into a deep dish, and pour the boiling syrup over them. The next day drain the syrup from them, let it boil for four minutes, and pour it ‘again’ over the fruit: repeat this process every day fora week. On the eighth day boil up the syrup as usual, and put the peaches into it. Let them boil quickly for eight or ten mintifes, but do not allow them to break; lift them!‘ out ‘carefully one by one, put them into jars, place an equal portion of the kernels in each jar, and fill it up with the syrup. In two or three hours tie down securely with paper brushed ‘over with the white of an egg, and store in a cool dry place. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches Preserved Whole (another ‘way).—Take peaches which are perfectly sound and not overripe, wipe off the bloom, and put them into a deep jar; pour boiling water | over them, throw a cloth over the bowl to keep in the steam, and let them remain until the water is nearly cold. Lift them carefully out of the water, drain, and peel them. Plate a single layer.of the fruit at the bottom of a deep earthenware jar, cover the peaches thickly with finely-powdered and sifted sugar, and place another layer of sugar and fruit upon the top of the last; repeat until the jar is full, being careful that the sugar is strewn very thickly over the fruit, and that the topmost layer 1s composed of sugar. Close the jar im- mediately, and fasten it securely, either with a large cork and resin, or with bladder, and keep the fruit in a dark, cool, dry place. Time, an hour fo soak the peaches. Probable cost of peaches, 2d. to 6d. each. Peaches, Vol-au-vent of.—Take as much fine puff paste as is required for the size of a vol-au-vent. It should be the exact size and shape of the inside of the dish on which it is intended to be served. Roll it out to the thickness of an inch and a quarter, and stamp the cover on the top accord- ing to the directions given for a vol-au-vent. (See Vol-au-vent.) Bake in a brisk oven. If the pastry has been properly made it will rise in the oven until it jis about five inches in height; when ‘it has done so, and is lightly coloured, take it out, remove the lid, and scoop out the inside. Have as many peaches as will be required to fill the empty space, already cut into halves‘and stewed in syrup until they aré tender, but unbroken. Put them into the vol- au-vent, boil the syrup quickly for a few minutes until it is very thick, pour it upon the peaches, and serve the vol-au-vent on a neatly- folded napkin. Time to bake a moderate-sized vol-au-vent—say one made with three-quarters of « pound of puff paste—about twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peacock.—This beautiful and maj estic bird has been introduced on the table both by the ancients and the moderns, but chiefly as a showy and ornamental dish, the bird being pre- . served in some of its handsome plumage. The flesh is coarse and ill-coloured. “" * Peafow].—The peafowl is generally to be had during the first six months of the year, and when young and well kept it tastes not‘ unlike pheasant. It requires to be larded on the breast and legs, as the flesh is rather . When the cock is served, some of the feathers of the tail should be preserved and stuck into the bird before it is sent to table, and when this is neatly done it presents an ex- cellent appearance. The hen is, however, much more frequently served than the cock. Peafowl, Larded and Roasted.— Choose a young bird, lard it closely: over the breast and legs, fill it with a good veal force- meat—but the forcemeat may be omitted— truss it firmly, and roast before a clear fire for an hour or an hour and a half, ac- cording to the size of the bird. When done enough, take off the buttered paper which was round the head (see Peafowl, Trussed), trim the feathers, glaze the larding, and serve the bird on a hot dish, with a little clear brown gravy under it. Garnish the dish with watercresses, and send bread-sauce to table in a tureen. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for five or’ six persons. f tyre Peafowl, Trussed.—Peafowls should be trussed in the same way as pheasants, except- ing that the head should be left attached to the’ skin of the breast unplucked. It should be carefully covered with buttered paper, : and fastened under the wing. When the bird is sufficiently cooked, and before it is dished, . the paper should be removed and the plumage trimmed. Pear.—The pear is very wholesome when ripe, but is not so when green. It is then, however, fit for stewing. The best pears for baking purposes are rather austere than sweet; by cooking, part of the acid is changed into’ sugar. Pears may be preserved in the same way as apples; they are also pared and dried in an oven, by which means they will keep for years. This method of preservation is much, followed in France. Several hundred kinds of pears are cultivated in the orchards of Europe. PEA (523): PEA Pear, Anchovy.—This is a West Indian fruit, not unlike the mango in taste. When in a green state it is sometimes pickled. i Pear and Plum Jam without Sugar (see-Plum and Pear Jam):/- : : Pear, Avocado, or Alligator. —A fruit, about the, size of an apple, met, with in the | West Indies. It takes rank amongst the most delicious productions of the vegetable kingdom. .. It consists of.a kernel enclosed in.a soft rind; the yellow pulp having the firmness and deli- | cate flavour of the peach. .’ Pear Charlotte.—Peel and core a dozen Bon Chrétien pears, cut them into quarters, dip them into finely-powdered sugar, and shake them over the fire in a little clarified butter | until they are'tender; then drain them well.’ Cut three or four slices of crumb of bread the third of an inch thick. Line a plain round, mould , with these, first cutting out a small round for the bottom, and then cutting the rest into fin- gers, which must be placed round the mould overlapping each other. Dip the bread into clarified butter before putting: it into the mould. Fill the mould with the cooked pears, cover the top with slices of bread.dipped in butter, and place the dish in a brisk'oven until the bread is lightly browned. If the oven be not sufficiently brisk the bread will not colour properly, nor will the charlotte preserve its form. Turn the char- lotte out of the mould, and brush it over with apricot jam, or sift powdered sugar thickly over it. Time to bake, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Pear Jam.—Pare, core, and quarter six pounds of ripe mellow pears, put them into a jar, cover closely, and place the jar in a saucepan of boiling. water, which must be kept. boiling until the pears fall and are quite soft. Turn them into a preserving pan, and mix with them a quart of syrup, made in the proportion of a pound and a half of loaf sugar to each half a pint of water. Mix the fruit and the syrup thoroughly, and stir the jam over the fire for twenty minutes. Turn it into jars, cover in the ustial way, and store in a cool dry place. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. : Pear Kloésse (a German dish) .—Pare, core, and mince finely half a dozen ripe pears. Mix with them half a nutmeg grated, two ounces of clarified butter, sugar to taste, four well-beaten - eges, and as much finely-grated bread as will make the mixture stiff and smooth... Mould it into egg-shaped balls with a large spoon, drop these into boiling water, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with sifted sugar and a little powdered cinnamon strewn over them. Send milk sauce to table with them. Time to simmer, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for three or four persons. , ‘ iS. Pear Marmalade.—Weigh, pare, halve, and. core as many ripe mellow pears as it is desired to use. Put them into a preserving-. pan, barely cover them with cold water, and simmer gently until they. are tender. Lift them out of the water, and boil the liquid for an hour: with.the skins and. cores of the. pears. Strain! it, make’ a syrup of: it: by boiling a pound anda half of sugar and a quart of liquid for every two pounds of fruit, and Jet this syrup boil until it will stiffen when a small quantity is poured upon a plate. Stir the pears into the syrup, and boil all together for a few minutes.. Turn the marmalade into jars, cover ‘in the usual way, and store in a cool dry'place! Time, boil the pears' until 'tender’;' one hour to stew the skins, &c.; boil the syrup until it jellies. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Pear Soup.—Pare, core, and slice six or eight large pears. Put them into.a stewpan with a penny roll cut into thin slices, ‘half a dozen cloves,-and three pints of water. Let them simmer until they are quite tender, then press them through a coarse sieve, and return the purée to the saucepan, with two ounces of sugar, the strained juice of a fresh lemon, and half ‘a tumblerful of light wine. Let the soup boil five or ten minutes, when it will be ready for serving. Send small spongecakes to table with this dish. Time,’ about one hour and a half to stew the pears. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. ~ Pear Tart.—If mellow pears are used they will not require to be stewed before the pastry is put over them, but if, the ordinary baking pears are made use of they must be pre- pared as follows:—Take six or eight: large,. pears. Pare them thinly, core and quarter them, and put them into a stewpan with .a quarter of a-pound of moist sugar, ‘two cloves; a.. dessert-spoonful.of -strained lemon-juice, and a quarter of a pint of water. ‘Let them simmer, gently for three-quarters of an hour, then turn them into the dish prepared for them. When the fruit is cold, moisten the edge of the dish and line it with pastry, wet the band, put the cover on, press it: down all round with the’ finger and thumb, trim the edge, and mark it with the back of a kvife. Orndment the top’ by placing on it leaves or flowers stamped out with the pastry-cutter.' Bake in a good oven. About ten minutes before the ‘tart is done enough, draw it out, sprinklé over it white of egg mixed with a little cold.water, sift pow- dered sugar thickly over it, and.put it. back in the oven to finish baking. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, ; 1s. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons... . ‘Pearlina Pudding, Baked.— Rub: a quarter of an ounce of fresh butter’ over the inside of a saucepan, and put into it a quart of : milk, with any flavouring that may be, liked. Let it boil, then sprinkle in gradually four: table-spoonfuls of Brown and Polson’s pearlinay and stir it over'a gentle fire for ten minutes, or minutes, and then add a pinch of salt, half an ounce of butter, three ounces of moist sugar, three well-beaten eggs, and half an ounce of candied-peel finely minced. Pour the mixture into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a4 moderate oven until the pudding is nicely browned. ‘Send wine sauce to table with it. Time, about three-quarters of an hour'to ‘bake. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for five or six persons. until it is thick. Pour it out, let it cool a few - PEA ( 524 ) PEA Pearlina Pudding, Baked, without Eggs.— Butter a pie-dish rather thickly. Pour into it a quart of milk, and stir in four table-spoonfuls of Brown and Polson’s pearlina. Add half an ounce of butter, a pinch of salt, and two or three drops of any flavouring that may be preferred. Put the pudding into a slow oven, and bake very gently until it is nicely browned. Serve with powdered sugar. Time, about two hours and a half to bake. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pearlina Pudding, Boiled.— Put a pint of milk into a saucepan with two square inches of thin lemon-rind, half an inch of stick cinnamon, three or four almonds blanched and bruised, or any other flavouring that may be preferred. Bring it slowly to a boil, then sprinkle in very gradually three table-spoonfuls of Brown and Polson’s pearlina, and stir the mixture briskly over the fire for a quarter of an hour. Turn it.into a bowl, and mix with it half an ounce of fresh butter, a small pinch of salt, three dessert-spoonfuls of moist sugar, and half an ounce of candied peel sliced very finely, and a well-beaten egg. Pour the pud- ding into a well-buttered mould which it will quite fill, tie a floured cloth securely over it, plunge the mould into a saucepan three-parts filled with boiling water, and keep the pudding boiling until it is done enough. Move it about during the first quarter of an hour to prevent the ingredients settling to the bottom. When the pudding is done enough, turn it on a hot dish, and send melted butter or sweet sauce to table in a tureen. Time, one hour to boil the pudding. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pearlina Pudding, Cold, To Make Use of the Remains of a.—Carefully remove the skin and brown parts from the pudding, and press the remainder into a plain basin. Place a weight upon it so that it may take the form of the mould, and when wanted turn it out on a glass dish, and put stewed fruit or jam round it. Time, a few minutes to prepare the pudding. Pears, Baked.—Rub half a dozen large hard pears with a soft cloth. Put them on a buttered baking-tin into a slow oven, and let them bake gently for five or six hours. When tender they are done enough, and will be found excellent if eaten with sugar. Pro- bable cost, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pears, Baked (another way).—Pare very smoothly a dozen large baking pears. Cut them into halves, take out the cores, and put them side by side into a well-brightened block- tin saucepan with a closely-fitting cover. Pour over them as much cold water as will cover them, add the thin rind of a small lemon, a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, an inch of stick cinnamon, and fifteen grains of allspice. Put on the cover, place the dish in a gentle oven, and let it remain there until the pears are tender. A little white wine may be added, if liked. If a saucepan such as is described is used, no cochineal will be required for the syrup. ‘Time to bake, six hours. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for eight or ten per- sons. Pears, Compéte of.—When ripe juicy pears are used for making compétes they should be stewed whole, but when hard baking pears only are to be had it is best to cut them into halves or quarters, reserving only one large piece to put in the centre. Peel the pears, and put them into the syrup. The pro- portion of sugar used will depend upon the quality of the pears. Put with them a few drops of prepared cochineal, and either a strip’ of lemon-rind, a quarter of a stick of vanilla, or a few cloves. Simmer very gently until they are quite tender without being broken, then drain them well, put them on a dish, boil the syrup quickly until it is thick: when it is cold, and just before the compéte is to be served, strain, and pour the syrup over the fruit. The pears are to be boiled until tender. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. for a dish. Sufficient for five or six persons. PEARS. 1. Lowise Bonne. 2. Marie Louise. St. Germain. Pears, Essence of Jargonelle.—The, article sold under this name is the acetate of the oxide of amyl, mixed with spirits of wine. 8. Uvedale’s It very closely resembles the natural flavour of pears. Pears, Frosted or Iced.—Take half a dozen large pears, which have been stewed whole in syrup. Dry them well, then cover them smoothly and evenly with a white icing made as follows:—Beat the white of an egg to a firm froth, add a quarter of a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a few drops of cold water, and beat the mixture thoroughly until it forms a very thick smooth liquid. When the pears are covered, set them in a warm place, or in a cool oven, to stiffen the icing. Probable cost, 2d, each. Sufficient for a dessert-dish. Pears, Giblets with (see Giblets with Pears). Pears in Jelly (a pretty dish for a Juve- nile Party).—Peel six or eight large pears, cut PEA ( 525 ) PEA them into halves, take out the cores, and throw them as they are done into cold water to keep them from becoming discoloured. Put them into a saucepan with as much syrup as will cover them, and let them stew gently until they are tender, but unbroken. The quantity of sugar put into the syrup will depend upon the quality of the pears, as some are naturally much sweeter than others. When sufficiently cooked, drain the pears from the syrup, brush them over with the beaten yolk of an egg, sprinkle powdered and sifted sugar thickly over them, and arrange them on a glass dish. Sup- posing there is a pint and a half of syrup, dissolve in it an ounce of gelatine which has been soaked in as much cold water as will cover it for one hour. Let it boil quickly for five or six minutes, colour with two or three drops of cochineal, and strain it through a jelly-bag over the pears. Put the dish into a cool place, and when the jelly is quite stiff it is ready for serving. Time, about one hour to stew the pears. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pears, Jargonelle (see Jargonelle Pears). Pears, Jargonelle, Preserved. — Gather the pears before they are soft, weigh them, and pare them as thinly as possible. As the fruit is likely to keep longer if the seeds are removed, scoop these out from the end with a fruit-knife, or with a bodkin. Place the pears ina preserv- ing pan, cover them with a thin syrup made with half a pound of sugar to each pint of water, and let them simmer gently until they are sufficiently.tender to be pierced easily with a needle, but they must not be allowed to break. Turn them into a bowl, pour the syrup over them, and leave them to soak for two days. Drain off the syrup, and add to it a further quantity of sugar, so that there will be the same weight of sugar that there was of fruit in the first instance, together with half an ounce of whole ginger and the juice and thinly-pared rind of a lemon to each quart of syrup. Boil for ten minutes, and skim carefully. Put in the pears,and let them simmer gently until they lookclear. When they aredoneenoughthey may either be drained from the syrup, and dried in the sun or in a gentle oven,or they may be kept in the syrup, and dried or not as they are wanted. Probable cost of pears, 1d. each. Pears, Méringue of.—Pare, core, and halve a dozen pears, and stew them in syrup until they are sufficiently tender to be pierced easily witha needle; put them into a deep tart- dish which they will almost fill, and boil the syrup quickly until itis so much reduced that, when poured over the pears, it will only half cover them. Whisk the whites of four eggs to a solid froth. Stir into them four table-spoon- fuls of powdered and sifted sugar, and spread the mixture evenly and smoothly over the fruit; put it at once into a moderate oven, and bake until the crust is lightly coloured and crisp even in the middle. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for four or six persons. : Pears, Pickled. — Put three quarts of good vinegar into a tin saucepan with a dessert-spoonful of salt, twelve onions, and two dozen large baking pears which have been well rubbed with a soft cloth, but not pared. Sim- mer gently until the pears are tender without being broken, then take them out, and when they are cold pare and core them, and divide each one intosix oreight pieces. When the onions also are soft take them out, and rub them through a fine hair sieve. Put into the vinegar a dessert. spoonful of peppercorns, a small tea-spoon- ful of cloves, a small tea-spoonful of allspice, six blades of mace, two ounces of whole ginger, three dessert-spoonfuls of turmeric, two cloves of garlic; if liked, # dessert-spoonful of mus- tard seed and a dessert-spoonful of coriander seed may also be added. Let these ingredients boil for ten minutes, then stir in the mashed onion, and boil ten minutes longer. Put the pears into jars, and pour the seasoned vinegar over them. Divide the spices equally amongst the jars, and place them at the top of the pears. Tie the jars down with bladder, and store in a cool dry place. Time, about one hour and a half to stew the pears. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a gallon of pickle. Pears, Preserved.— Gather the pears before they are quite ripe, pare, halve, core, and weigh them, and put them into a deep jar, allowing three pounds of sugar to every four pounds of pears, and just enough water to moisten the sugar and keep the fruit from burn- ing. The strained juice and thinly-pared rind of alemon and aninchof whole ginger may be put with every two pounds of pears. Place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let the fruit steam gently for six or seven hours. Turn it into jars, fasten these down securely, and store in a cool dry place. Two or three drops of cochineal may be added to the pears after they are'cooked to improve the appearance It must not be expected that pears preserved as above will keep good more than three or four months. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Pears, Preserved, Red.—If when pre- serving pears it is wished to impart a deep pink tinge to the fruit and syrup, use a per- fectly bright block-tin saucepan. If this is not convenient, add three or four drops of cochineal to the syrup, or a small proportion of red cur- rant or red gooseberry-juice, Pears, Stewed.—Pare, core, and halve eight or ten good-sized pears, leaving on the stalks or not, according to taste; put them into a tinned saucepan, with six ounces of loaf sugar, six cloves, six whole allspice, three-quarters of a pint of water, and a glassful of port, and let them boil as gently as possible until they are quite soft without being broken. Lift them out, put them on a glass dish, and when the syrup is cold strain it over them. A little Devonshire cream, or, failing this, a little cus- tard, is a great improvement to this dish. Time to stew the pears, from two hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pears Stewed in Butter.—Take half a dozen large baking pears, pare and core with- out breaking them, and fill the cavity in each with a clove crushed to powder, a little moist PEA (526 ) PEA sugar, and a small lump of butter.. Put them into a stewpan with the stalk ends uppermost, and pour over them three ounces of clarified butter; cover the saucepan closely, and let them stew gently until they are quite soft without being broken, then lift them out carefully, fill the hollows with red currant jelly, and arrange the pears ona dish, with the narrow parts meet- ing in the centre. Pile half a dozen macaroons which have been soaked in sherry in the centre of the fruit, pour the syrup round it, and serve. Time to stew the pears, about one hour. Proba- ble cost, exclusive of the sherry, 1s. 2d. Suf- ficient for five or six persons. Pears Stewed in Vinegar (for Dessert). —Pare smoothly two pounds of small winter pears, cut them in halves, and take out the cores. Boil a pint of vinegar, twelve cloves, twelve ounces of sugar, and a stick of cinnamon for ten minutes. Put the pears into the syrup, and let them simmer very gently until they are sufficiently tender to be pierced easily with a pin. Take them out carefully, drain them, and put them intojars. Boil the syrup quickly until it is quite thick, and when itis cold pour it over the fruit, which must be covered with it. Tie down the jars with bladder, and store in a cool dry place. At the end of a week look at the fruit, and if the syrup has turned their. colour boil if over again. Time to stew the pears, until tender;. the time will vary with the quality of the pears. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Pears, Stewed, To Colour.—This may @ done in several ways. Port wine and a few drops of liquid cochineal will impart a bright red colour. Or some fine white candied sugar dissolved in a wine-glassful of port wine may be added to a moderate-sized dish of pears. Or pears may be stewed ina block-tin vessel, which will give a fine red. Pears, The Pips of (see Apples and Pears, The Pips of). : Pears, Wine of.—A sort of wine in which pears were employed is thus described’ by Mr. Booth in: his work on wine making. “In the North of France, having heated fifty- five pounds of the juice of wild pears to 180 degrees, I added about a tenth of that weight of raisins, and bunged up the whole in a cask. In a short time the heat of the liquor had fallen to 77 degrees, when I drained out the raisins, bruised them, returned them into the must, and closed the cask, so as to allow the fermentation to take place. A fortnight after, the wine, or perry, was racked into stone cans, and, after standing three months in the cellar, it was reckoned by good judges equal to the best wine from grapes.” Pears with Rice.—Wash six ounces of best Carolina rice in two or three waters, put it into a saucepan with a quart of milk, some white sugar, and a quarter of a stick of vanilla, and let it simmer gently for an hour. Turn it upon a hot dish, and lay upon it four or five good baking pears ‘which have been cored, halved, and stewed until quite tender with three pints of water, four ounces of sugar, anda quarter of a stick of vanilla, Boil the syrup in which the pears were stewed very quickly for a few minutes ‘to thicken it, and pour it over the rice. Serve either hot or cold. Time, one hour and a half or more to stew the pears.. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peas.—The pea has been cultivated as a culinary vegetable from a very early period. The Greeks prized it highly, and grew it ex- tensively. It is uncertain when it was first cultivated in Britain. Long after its introduc- tion it was rare, and in the time of Elizabeth we find it imported from Holland, most likely in a ripe state. Hither as a horticultural or as an agricultural product the pea is of great im- portance. In a green state the seeds are held to be one of our most esteemed vegetables, when boiled; when ripe they are much used in forming a favourite and nutritious soup. Though a great many varieties of peas have been produced ‘by cultivation, yet they may all be ranged under one or other of two divisions— white, or yellow, -and grey peas. Of the former the choicest kinds are grown in gardens to be eaten green, but vast quantities are also cul- tivated in the fields, and allowed to ripen for drying. Grey peas are coarse in flavour, and ‘are used solely as food for horses and cattle. Peas are sown in the-garden at different periods so that they may be fit for gathering in succes- sion. ‘They are usually divided into early and date peas; the former, which constitute one of the great luxuries of the beginning of summer, are often forced on hot-beds. The peas, how- ever, which are best in quality are those which have been brought to maturity by the natural heat of summer. Peas, Asparagus Heads as (sec Aspargugus Heads as Peas). Peas “‘ Brose.”?—‘‘In the West of Scot- land, especially in Glasgow,” says Dr. Andrew in the “Cyclopedia of Domestic Medicine,” &e., “*peas brose,’ as it is called, is made of the fine flour of the white pea, by forming it ‘into a mass merely by the addition of boiling water anda little salt. It is-a favourité dish with not only the working classes, but is even esteemed by many of the gentry. It was in- troduced into fashion chiefly by the recom- mendation of Dr. Cleghorn, late Professor of Chemistry in Glasgow University.. The peas brose is eaten: with milk or butter, and is a sweet nourishing article of diet, peculiarly fitted for persons of a costive habit, and, for children.” is Peas, Chick.—This is a small variety of pea, little known in Britain, but much cul- tivated in the South of Europe. The seeds are not ee by boiling. They are sometimes parched in a frying-pan in Egypt and Syria, where they are held to be a contention tied foe travellers bound on long expeditions. In Italy and the South of France ‘they are occasionally roasted, and made to do duty for coffee. Peas, Green.—To have green peas in perfection, care should be taken to obtain them young, freshly-gathered, and freshly- shelled. The condition of the peas may bs known from the appearance of the shells. When the peas are young the shells are green, PEA ( 827 ) PEA ~when newly-gathered they are crisp, when old they look yellow, and when plump the peas are ‘fine and large. If peas are shelled some hours ‘before they are cooked they lose greatly in flavour. Peas, Green (a French mode of cooking). —Peas are often served in France as a, dish by themselves, and eaten with bread alone. They require, therefore, to be enriched with butter and flavoured with seasoning... They are pre- “pared as follows:—Put « quart of freshly- gathered young green peas into a bowl with plenty of cold spring water and two ounces of. butter. Work’ well with the fingers until the butter adheres to the peas, then pour off the water, and drain the peas in a colander. Put them into a stewpan with half a tea-spoon- ful of salt, half a dozen small young onions, and a table-spoonful of pounded sugar. A sprig of parsley is frequently added, but it should be used very sparingly, as its strong flavour destroys the fresh taste of the peas. Put the lid on the saucepan, and let the peas stew gently over a slow fire for thirty minutes. Remove the onions and parsley, and add a table-spoonful of strong gravy and two ounces of fresh butter which has been kneaded to a smooth paste with a dessert-spoonful of flour. Shake the saucepan over the fire until the butter is melted and the peas properly thickened: taste them to ascertain if a little more salt and sugar are required. ‘ Serve ‘the ‘peas'as quickly as possible, piled high on a hot dish. Probable cost, 8d. per peck, when in full season. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Peas, Green (a French mode of cooking: another way).—Melt one ounce of fresh butter in a saucepan. When it is dissolved without being the least coloured, throw in a quart of peas. Shake them over the fire for a minute or two, then pour over'them as much boiling water or weak stock as will barely cover them, add half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, the heart of a lettuce finely shred, three young onions, and a small sprig of parsley. Simmer gently until the peas are tender. Take the saucepan from the fire for a minute, and in order to thicken the sauce stir in the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. The. peas must not boil up after the eggs are added. Serve. the peas on a!hot dish with the sauce poured over them. Time, half an hour. Pro- bable. cost of peas, 8d. per peck,. when in full season. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peas, Green (a French mode. of cooking : another way).—Take two quarts of green peas, and put them in a. panful of cold water with three ounces of butter. Work the peas in the water, so that their surface may be equally smeared. with the butter, that they may adhere. together. Drain off the water, take out the peas’ by ‘handfuls, and transfer them to a colander. Stew them over a moderate fire with some green onions and a bunch of parsley; dust a little flour over them, and stir ‘carefully ; next pour over the peas just enough ‘boiling water. to cover them.’ Boil fast till’ the water is' evaporated, then put in a lump of sugar, : moistened, that it may be more quickly dissolved, ‘and a little salt. Have ready mixed two ounces of butter with some flour; stir it into ‘the peas, and let it be equally distributed among them. Then serve. Peas, Green (4 la Paysanne).—Prepare . the peas as in the preceding recipe. Take a ‘handful of parsley, a few. green onions, and a few cabbage and cos-lettuces, wash them, and break, instead of cutting them. Drain, them from the water, and put them with the peas over a very slow fire. No other moisture than the butter will be required. Be careful, by stirring the contents of the stewpan repeatedly, that. they do not burn. When done enough, add pepper and salt, and serve. Peas, Green, Boiled.—Choose peas which are young and freshly-gathered. Do not shell them until just before they are to be boiled. To boil a quart of peas, put two quarts of water into a saucepan, and with it a quarter of an ounce of salt. Let it boil, and . skim it well, then throw in'the peas, and let them boil quickly without being covered until they are tender. As soon as this point is reached, take them at: once off the fire, or they will | quickly break,-and their appearance be spoilt. Drain them, put them into a clean saucepan with. three ounces of fresh butter, sprinkle a little salt and white sugar upon them, and shake them over the fire until the, butter is melted... Serve immediately. A bunch of mint is frequently thrown into the water with the ' peas; but before doing this it is well to ascer- tain if the flavour. is liked, as some persons have. 2 strong objection to it. Instead of being shaken up with butter, green peas are sometimes served with a handful of finely- chopped mint strewn over them in the tureen, pats of fresh butter being served separately in a cooler. Time to boil young fresh peas, a quarter.of an hour; large old ones, twenty-five minutes or more. Probable cost of garden peas when in full season, 8d. per peck; field peas, 4d. . Sufficient for four or five persons. Peas, Green, Boiled (Dr. Kitchener's recipe).—“ Young green peas well dressed are one of the most delicious delicacies of the vege- table kingdom. They must be young; it is equally indispensable that they be fresh Sep aha and cooked as soon as they are shelled, ‘or they soon lose both their colour and sweet- ness. Lf you wish to feast upon peas in per- fection, you must have them gathered the same day they are dressed, and put on to boil within half an hour after they are shelled. Pass them through a riddle, ic., a coarse sieve, which is made for the purpose of separating them. ‘This precaution is necessary, for large and small peas cannot be boiled together, as the former will: take more time than the latter. For a -peck of peas, set on a saucepan with » gallon of water in it; when it boils, put in your peas. with a table-spoonful of salt; skim. it well, “keep them boiling quick from twenty to thirty minutes, according to their age and size; the “best way to judge of their being done.enough, ‘and indeed the only way to make sure of cook~ ‘ing them to and not beyond the point of per- fection, or, as the pea-eaters say, of: ‘boiling PEA ( 528 ) PEA them to a bubble,’ is to take them out with a spoon, and taste them. When they are done enough, drain them on a hair sieve. If you like them buttered, put them into a pie-dish, divide some butter into small bits, and lay them on the peas; put another dish over them, and turn them over and over; this will melt the butter through them; but as all people do not like buttered peas, you had better send them to table plain as they come out of the saucepan, with melted butter in a sauce tureen. It is usual to boil some mint with the peas; but if you wish te garnish the peas with mint, boil a few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves. A peck of young peas will not yield more than enough for a couple of hearty pea-eaters; when the pods are full, it may serve for three. Never think of purchasing peas ready-shelled, for the cogent reasons assigned in the first part of this recipe.” Peas, Green, Bottled.—Shell the peas, put them into wide-mouthed bottles, and shake them together so that they may lie in as little space as possible. Cork the bottles closely, and seal the corks. Bury the bottles in the driest part of the garden, and take them up as they are wanted. They will keep good five or six months. Peas, Green, Bottled (another way).— Choose peas which are large and fully grown, though not old. Put them into perfectly dry wide-mouthed bottles, shake them down, cork securely, and cover the corks with bladder. Tie a wisp of hay round the lower part of the bottles to prevent their knocking against each other in the pan, put them side by side in a large saucepan, and pour into it as much cold water as will reach to their necks. Put the saucepan on the fire, and let it remain for two hours after the water has reached the boiling point, then take it off, but do not remove the bottles until the water is cold. Seal the corks, and store in a cool dry place. Peas, Green, Old, How to Cook.— When peas are old they should be shelled, and soaked in water for some time before being cooked. If of superior quality they will only require soaking about half an hour, but if not three or four hours will not be too much for them. An excellent dish may be made with old peas, by soaking them as above directed, and then stewing with them a small piece of beef, or salt pork. The time required for cook- ing will of course depend upon the weight of the meat. It is best, however, to use as much water only as will barely cover the peas. Serve the meat and vegetables on the same dish, and as hot as possible. Time, half an hour for the peas. Probable cost, 6d. per peck. Peas, Green, Preserved.—Take the peas when they are fully grown, but not old. Shell them, throw them into boiling water, and let them boil for ten minutes, then drain well, spread them out on tins, and put them in a cool oven once or twice to harden. When done, put them into paper bags, tie up securely, and hang in a dry warm room until wanted. Before using them, soak them in water for a little while, and put an ounce of butter into the water in which they are boiled. Peas, Green, Preserved (other ways).— Fill a tin box with them, pour in a little water which has been salted, put on the cover, which must be soldered, so that the box shall be her- metically tight, and then boil the box. Or, dry the peas in a cool oven, and afterwards hang them up in paper bags. Or, gather the peas on a fine dry day, open the pods on a large clean cloth, and leave the peas for five or six hours exposed to the sun and air. Rub them gently in a rough towel till they are perfectly dry, bottle them as air-tight as possible, and store in a dry place. Peas, Green, Purée of.—Throw the peas into as much boiling water as will cover them. Season with salt and sugar, and when they are quite soft drain in a colander, and press them through a fine hair sieve. Put the pulp into a stewpan, with one-eighth of its bulk of good stock or white sauce, or, if pre- ferred, with three or four ounces of butter, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the mixture over the fire until it is very hot, and serve immediately. This purée is used with lamb cutlets, and various other meats. Time, half an hour. Probable cost of peas, when in full season, 6d. per peck. Sufficient, a peck for four or five persons. Peas, Green, Soup.—In making green peas soup it is most important that the peas used should neither be old nor of. inferior quality, or the flavour of the soup will be spoilt. They are best when they are almost fully grown. Shell a peck of green peas, and put aside about a handful of these to be used as hereafter directed. Put the rest into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter, a fresh lettuce finely shred, a small sprig of mint (if the flavour be not disliked), a moderate- sized onion, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a dozen leaves of spinach for colouring. Let the vegetables steam gently in the butter until they are quite soft, stirring occasionally to prevent their burning, then press them through a fine sieve, and mix with the pulp two quarts of clear stock or water. Return the soup to the sauce- pan, add a small lump of sugar and a dessert- spoonful of arrowroot, mix smoothly with water and stock to make half a pint. Stir this into the liquid, boil, and skim carefully, Whilst it is simmering, put the handful of peas which were put aside into another saucepan of boiling water with half a tea-spoonful of salt and half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar. Let the peas boil until tender, then drain them well, and put them into the soup. Serve as hot as possible. Send a little powdered mint to table ona plate. Peas are so nourishing that stock is not needed for this soup, and the colour will be better if water be used. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per quart. Peas, Green, Soup, Economical.— The shells of peas are sometimes used in making soup, and the flavour and colour of the soup are improved thereby. Shella peck of young peas, wash the shells, throw them into two quarts of boiling water with a dessert-spoonful. of salt, a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a sprig or two of parsley, and boil them for half an hour. Strain the liquid, and rub the shells PEA ( 629 ) PEA well with the back of a wooden spoon, over a fine sieve, till the green pulp which covers the shells has.passed through the sieve, leaving the skins of the shells clean. Put an onion into a stewpan, with about two quarts of water. When the liquid boils quickly, add the peas, two lettuce hearts finely shred, half a tea- spoonful of pepper, a sprig or two of mint or of tarragon, if either are liked, and a little more salt if required. Boil quickly till the peas are tender, then press the vegetables through a fine ‘sieve, boil up the pulp with the liquid, and thicken lightly with arrowroot. If preferred, stock may be used instead of part of the water, and the peas may be gently fried in butter, before being put into the soup. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 8d. if made with water. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Peas, Green, Soup, without Meat, Economical and Excellent.—Take a quart of green peas fully grown, but neither yellow nor worm-eaten, and put them into a saucepan, with three pints of boiling water, a tea-spoonful of salt, an ounce of butter, two or three sprigs of mint, a dozen spring onions, and a handful of fresh parsley, or a dozen leaves of spinach. Boil until the peas are tender, then strain off the liquor and preserve it. Pound the peas in a mortar, add to them ‘the liquid in which the peas were boiled, and then pass the whole through a fine hair sieve. Bring the soup to the point of boiling, stir into it another ounce of butter, a dessert- spoonful of Liebig’s extract of meat, a tea- spoonful of powdered sugar, pepper, and a spoonful of arrowroot moistened with water. Serve as hot as possible. ‘Time, half an hour to boil the peas. Probable cost, 10d. Suffi- cient for six or seven persons. Peas, Green, Stewed.—Shell a peck of young peas, put them into a bowl with plenty of cold water and two ounces of butter, work them well with the fingers to make the peas stick together, and then drain them in a colander. Put the peas into a stewpan, with half a dozen young onions, two vabbage-lettuces cut into small pieces, a handful of parsley, a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a little salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents stew gently over a slow fire for about half an hour. If the lettuces and peas do not yield sufficient water a table-spoonful may be added, but if they are simmered gently this will in all probability be unnecessary. Shake the stewpan occasionally, that all may be equally cooked. Mix two ounces of butter smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of flour, and when the peas are tender put the mixture into the saucepan with them. Shake them over the fire for three or four minutes until the butter is melted, then turn them upor a hot dish, and serve immediately. If preferred, an egg beaten up with a table-spoonful of water may be substituted for the butter. Probable tost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peas, Green, Stewed with Ham and Lettuces.—Shell a peck of young green peas and prepare them according to the directions given in the last recipe. Put them intoa stew- 34—N.E. pan, with the hearts of two cabbage-lettuces finely shred, a large onion cut into thin slices, a handful of parsley, and half a pound of ham or bacon cut into small pieces. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents stew until the peas are tender. If necessary add a table- spoonful of water or stock. Shake the sauce- pan over the fire occasionally to prevent burn- ing. When the peas are cooked enough take out the ham and onion, put in two ounces of butter mixed smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of flour and a table-spoonful of cream. A sprig or two of mint may be stewed with the peas. if the flavour ‘be liked. Simmer gently for four minutes, and serve as hot as possible. Time, about half an hour to stew the peas. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Peas, Green, with Cream Sauce.— Boil a quart of young freshly-gathered peas in slightly salted water until they are tender, then drain them in a colander. Melt two ounces of fresh butter over the fire, mix smoothly with it a dessert-spoonful of flour, and add very gradu- ally a cupful of thick cream, or failing this, new milk. When the sauce boils put in the peas, stir them until they are quite hot, and serve immediately. Time, from fifteen to twenty-five minutes to boil the peas. Probable cost, 8d..per peck when in full season. Suffi- cient for four or five persons. Peas, Nutritive Properties of.— Peas are so rich in flesh-forming matter, that they are to be avoided as a simple article of diet; they ‘are most wholesome when mixed with a less nutritive food, such as the potato. The, flesh-former in peas is legumin, which closely resembles casein. Green peas contain more sugar and less casein than dried peas. One hundred parts of peas, air dried, is stated to contain :— Water Casein Starch - Sugar | Gum ‘ ‘ Fat. % "3s Woody fibre Mineral matter Or, Water. : : : Flesh and force producers Force producers : Mineral matter . : : 3 Peas Porridge.—Soak a pint of split peas for a night in cold water, and take away. those that fioat. Slice two moderate-sized Spanish onions and fry them in a little hot fat, with two or three sticks of celery cut into two- inch lengths.’ Drain them and put them into a large saucepan, with a bunch of savoury herbs, two anchovies, or failing these half a red herring, a crust of bread toasted. on both sides, and three quarts. of cold water. Boil gently until the liquid is strongly impregnated with the flavour of the herbs, &c.. Skim and strain it, and return it to the saucepan with the soaked peas and a pound of raw potatoes coarsely grated.. Simmer again until the peas are quite soft. Press them through a hair sieve, and : é . 141 : . 23°4 wo xa So nAeocoeoosd opr Rook WOM ord ache PEA ( 530 ) PEA whilst pressing keep pouring a little liquid upon them to soften them. Return the por- ridge to the saucepan; and if it is not thick enough add to it a lump of butter mixed smoothly with a little flour. Season with pepper and salt. Cut up half « dozen leeks into two-inch lengths, boil them in the soup, and when they are tender it is ready for serving. Time, three hours or more. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Peas Pudding (Dr. Kitchener's recipe). —‘Put a quart of split peas into a clean cloth; do not tie them up too close, but leave a. little room for them to swell; put them on to boil in cold water slowly till they are tender; if they are good peas they will be boiled enough in about two hours and a half; rub them through « sieve into a deep dish, adding to them an egg or two, an ounce of butter, and some pepper and salt; beat them well together for about ten minutes, when these ingredients are well incorporated together ; then flour the cloth well, put the pudding’ in,''tie it up as tight as possible, and boil it an hour Jonger. It isas good with boiled beef as it is with boiled pork; and why not with roasted pork? This is a very good accompaniment to cold pork or cold beef.” To increase the bulk and diminish the expense of this pudding, the economical housekeeper who has a large family to feed may add to the above ingredients two pounds of, potatoes that have been boiled and well mashed. To many this mixture is more agreeable than peas pudding alone. © Peas Pudding (another way).— Soak a pint of split peas over night, and: remove all that are not quite good. The follow- ing mormng drain them, tie them in a thick cloth, leave room for swelling, and put them into a saucepan with plenty of soft cold water. If soft water cannot be ob- tained half a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda should be stirred into that in which the peas are boiled. Boil until the peas are tender, then press them through a colander, stir an ounce of butter into the pulp, with a little pepper and salt, and, if liked, two well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly, tie it tightly in a cloth, and boil again for one hour. If the eggs are omitted the pudding will have to be served in a shape, as the eggs bind it together. If the peas are not soft at the end of two hours and a half they are of in- ferior quality and cannot be made soft. One hour's boiling will be found sufficient for superior peas. Time, altogether, to boil, three hours and a half. Probable cost, ‘5d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. a Peas Pudding, Superlative. — Soak and boil a pint of peas according to the direc- tions given above, press them through a sieve, season with pepper and salt, and beat thoroughly for eight or ten minutes, first adding three well-beaten eggs, two ounces of clarified butter, and a table-spoonful of thick cream. Pout the mixture into a buttered mould, which it should quite fill, cover with a floured cloth, plunge the mould into boiling water, and let the pudding boil quickly till done enough. Turn it out before serving, and send melted butter to table with it. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Peas, Purée of (sce Peas, Green, Purée of). Peas Soup.—Peas soup may be made from dried peas either whole or split: the latter are to be preferred. Soak a quart of peas over night. The next day wash and drain them, and put them into a large sauce- pan, with six ounces of lean ham, or if it is at hand, the knuckle-bone of a ham, three sliced carrots, two onions, and three or four sticks of celery cut into. small pieces. Pour over these three quarts of the liquor in which pork, beef, or mutton has been boiled. Sim-: mer gently until the peas are reduced to pulp, stirring frequently, then rub the whole through a hair sieve, and put the soup back into the stewpan. Let it boil, and skim it carefully. Add pepper and salt if necessary, stir in an ounce of butter, and serve as hot as possible. Send powdered mint or powdered sage to table ona separate dish. A table-spoonful of curry powder will greatly improve the soup. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 9d. per quart. Suf- ficient for eight or nine persons. Peas Soup (another way).—When no stock is at hand procure two pennyworth of fresh bones the day before the soup is wanted. Wash them well, trim them, and put them into a saucepan with two. quarts of cold water, two carrots, three onions, one turnip, four or five sticks of celery, eight peppercorns, half a tea- spoonful of dried mint, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a table-spoonful of moist sugar. Bring the liquid to a boil, skim carefully, then draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for four or five hours. Soak a pint of split peas over night. The next day wash and beil them gently in a quart of water until they are reduced to a pulp. Be careful to stir fre- quently, or the peas may burn to the bottom. Strain the stock and mix it with the peas. Boil all together until the peas are well mixed with the soup, and add two ounces of butter which have been smoothly mixed with three dessert-spoonfuls of flour, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful'of unmixed mustard, and a pinch of cayenne. Boil for half an hour, then rub the soup through a hair sieve, boil again, and serve immediately. Send toasted sippets and powdered dried mint to table on separate dishes. Time, from an hour and a half to three hours to boil the peas; half an hour to boil the soup. If the water used in making peas soup has been previously used in cooking animal or vegetable food, the soup will thereby be greatly improved. Probable cost, 1s. Suffi- cient for six or eight persons. Peas Soup (another ee twoounces of lean ham or bacon into dice, and fry them with a sliced onion in a little dripping until they are lightly browned. Put with them one turnip, two carrots, three or four sticks of celery, and one leek, all cut into small pieces, and stir the whole of the above ingredients over the fire for ten minutes more, Pour over them three quarts of water, boil, and add a pint of PEA ( 631 ) PEC peas which have been soaked in cold water all night. Boil gently until the peas are quite soft, stir frequently to prevent burning, then add a little salt and: pepper, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and a salt-spoonful of dried and poraeee mint. Rub the soup through a sieve. it is not sufficiently thick, stir into it three or four ounces of flour mixed smoothly with a little cold water. Boil half an hour longer, and serve very hot. Time, three hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Peas Soup (another way:).—Soak a quart of split peas all night. Wash them in two or three waters, and put them into a large stew- pan with half a dozen of the outer. sticks of a head of celery, two large scraped carrots, two onions, two pounds weight of salt pork, and three quarts of water. . Boil gently until the peas are tender, stirring frequently, then take out the pork, and rub the soup through a hair sieve, or a colander. Pour it, back into the saucepan, let it boil, stirring occasionally, season with a, little pepper and salt if neces- sary, and put in the pork which. has been cut up into convenient-sized pieces. When the meat is hot the soup is reddy for serving. Send toasted sippets, and either dried and powdered mint, or dried and powdered sage, to table on separate dishes. Time, three hours. Probable cost, 28. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Peas Soup, Nutritive Properties of. —Peas soup, says the Inventory of the Food Collection at, Bethnal Green Museum, is one of the most economical articles of diet. The following ingredients will make one gallon of palatable and nutritious. soup :—Peas, sixteen ounces; meat, sixteen ounces; pot barley, one ounce; salt, an ounce and a half; onions, an ounce and a half; black pepper, forty grains; and water, four quarts. The peas should be soakedin three or four pints of the water (cold) for twelve hours. The meat should be boiled in five pints of the water for three hours. The peas should then be put in a bag, and boiled with the meat one hour. The contents of the bag should then be pressed into the soup, and the skins removed. The salt, pepper, onions, and pot barley should then be added, and the whole boiled for an hour. Water should be added from time to time, to make up a gallon. Tf the water had been previously used in cook- ing animal or vegetable food, the soup will be rendered more nutritious. One pint of this soup contains :— Water. . 5 ‘ 7 - 17:0 Legumin or casein . p $ . 0°270 Starch . 7 : i . « 20 Sugar. 7 ‘ n : - 0-16 Fat . 3 a i 3 . 0°257 Gum 2 . 2 : . . 0°40 Woody fibre . ‘ . - 0-41 Gelatin... eee 0°147 Mineral matter 7 . - 0108 Or, x : Water «. «we ee 170 Flesh and force producers « .. ~. .0°270 Force producers a oh ay 2°64 Mineral matter - : 0°103 ‘While this and other soups are to be com- mended, it should be recollected that they cannot be made a substitute for solid food, such as bread and meat.” Peas Soup, Quickly and Easil Made.—lIf there be at tai any stock, made from bones or any of the liquid in which meat has been boiled, it may be quickly converted into. peas soup by stirring into it a small quantity of prepared peas, sold by all grocers, in packets, at Id., 2d., 3d., and 6d. The powder should be mixed smoothly with a little cold liquid, and added gradually to the soup, which. must afterwards boil for fully a quarter of an hour. Peas soup made with this powder is not. so good as that made with dried peas. Suffi- cient, « dessert-spoonful of powder for a quart. of soup; more, if it is liked very thick. Peas Soup, To Flavour.—aA pinch of the following savoury powder will impart an agreeable flavour to dried peas soup :—Pound together in a mortar one ounce of dried sage, one ounce of dried mint, two drachms of celery- seed, half a drachm of cayenne, and a drachm of allspice. When the ingredients are reduced to powder, put them into a perfectly dry bottle, cork securely, and store until wanted for use. Peas, Split, Boiling of.—In boiling split peas, some samples, says Mr. Loudon, fall or moulder down freely into pulp, while others maintain their form. The former are called boilers, and this property of boiling depends on the soil; stiff land, or sandy land that. has been limed or marled, or to which gypsum has been applied, produces peas. that will not melt,in boiling, no matter what the variety may be. The same effect is pro- duced on beans by the soil or manure, and indeed on all leguminous plants, this family having a great tendency to absorb gypsum from _ the soil. To counteract this fault in the boiling it is only necessary to throw into the water a small quantity of sub-carbonate of soda. Peas, Sugar.—This is a very sweet variety of pea, in which the tough internal film of the pod'is wanting. These pods, when young, are boiled whole, and eaten in the same way as ‘French beans. yee Peasant’s Pudding.—Butter a moderate- sized pie-dish, and fill it with alternate layers of fruit and thin slices of bread or grated bread- crumbs. Add sugar according to the acidity of the fruit, and if it is not.a juicy kind, pour half a cupful of cold water, or a little lemon-juice, over the pudding. Red and white currants, strawberries, raspberries, and cherries will not require any water to moisten them. The first layer in the dish ‘should consist of bread, and the last of fruit. Bake in a well-heated oven for half an hour.. Probable cost uncertain, varying, of course, with the fruit. This is an inexpensive and wholesome pudding. Sufficient for five or six persons. , ; Pectoral Broth (Invaum Cooxrry).— Cut a chicken into joints and put it into a stewpan, with two pints of cold spring water, a fresh lettuce finely shred, three ounces of prepared Iceland moss, a dessert-spoonful of gum-arabic, a sprig of burrage, two or three sprigs of chervil, and a small pinch of salt and PEE ( 532 ) PEP pepper. Bring the liquid gently to a boil, stirring it occasionally, then draw the saucepan to the side and let its contents simmer gently for an hour. Strain it, adda little more salt if required, and serve either hot or cold as a jelly. The flesh of the bird may be made into a chicken panada (see Chicken Panada). The above is good for consumptive persons. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for one person. Peel, Orange and Lemon.—The rinds of the orange and lemon may be classed amongst the aromatic condiments. They owe their high flavour to the essential oil they contain, which is extracted, and sold as the essence of oranges and lemons. A few drops of this essential oil is quite as useful as the peel itself: besides it has the advantage of. being easily preserved, whereas the peel when dried loses in course of time most of its flavour, from the essential oil escaping. Peels of Fruits, To Preserve the.— The portion of the peel to be preserved should be separated from the rest and dried in a gentle heat. Pemmican.—Pemmican is a preparation of preserved meat, made by cutting lean meat into thin steaks, drying these thoroughly, re- ducing the substance to powder, and mixing it with melted fat, or beef suet. It is an indispensable article for the Arctic voyager, and constitutes an important item in the supplies furnished by the Hudson’s Bay Company to their employés. The following is an account given by Sir John Richardson of the prepa- ration of pemmican for use in the search for Sir John Franklin :—‘‘The round or buttock of beef, of the best quality, having been cut into thin steaks, from which the fat and membranous parts were pared away, was dried in a malt- kiln over an oak fire until its moisture was entirely dissipated, and the fibre of the meat became friable. It was then ground in a malt-mill, when it resembled finely-grated meat. Being next’ mixed with an equal quantity of melted beef suct, or lard, the pre- paration of plain pemmican was complete; but to render it more agreeable to the unaccustomed palate, a proportion of the best Zante currants was added to part of it, and part was sweetened with sugar. Both these kinds were much approved of in the sequel, but more especially that to which the sugar had beenadded. After the ingredients had been well incorporated by stirring, they were transferred to tin canisters capable of containing eighty-five pounds each, and having been firmly rammed down, and allowed to contract further by cooling, the air was completely expelled by filling the canister to the brim with melted lard through a small hole left in the end, which was then covered with a piece of tin, and soldered up. Finally the canister was painted and lettered according to its contents.” Penguin.—The common penguin is the size of a duck: the great penguin is as large as a-goose. It is only used as food in rare cir- cumstances. Pennant describes the Patagonian penguin as follows :—They are very fat, but taste fishy, not unlike our puffins. As they are very full of blood, it is necessary to cut off their heads as soon as they are killed, in order that it may run out. It is also requisite that they should be flayed, for without these precautions their flesh is scarcely eatable. "When salted, it becomes good food. Sir R. Hopkins preserved in this way sixteen hogsheads, which served as beef above two months. Peninsula Pudding.—Take six ounces of picked and dried currants, and four ounces of raisins weighed after they have been stoned. Mix with these four ounces of sugar which has been rubbed upon the rind of a small lemon and powdered, and add six ounces of chopped apples, three ounces of finely-shred suet, three ounces of bread-crumbs, a pinch of salt, and the eighth of a nutmeg grated. Mix the dry in- gredients thoroughly, then stir into them three well-beaten eggs, the strained juice of the lemon, and a glassful of brandy. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould which it will fill to the brim, cover with oiled paper, and tie the mould ina floured cloth. Plunge it into boiling water, and keep the pudding boiling until it is done enough. Turn it out carefully, sift powdered sugar thickly over it, and send sweet sauce or wine sauce to table with it. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 1s. 3d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. Peper as used for seasoning, is the produce of a plant which grows almost ex- clusively in tropical countries, and is remark- able for its aromatic, hot, pungent taste. There are several kinds to be met with, of which the most important are black pepper, white pepper, long pepper, cayenne pepper, and Neilgherry pepper (see under these different THE PEPPER PLANT. headings). In order to test the quality of the peppercorns rub them between the hands; if they are easily crushed to powder they are bad. Pepper was known to the ancient Greeks and Romans. We find two sorts described in the fourth century B.c. At onetime it held a much more important place in the commerce of the world than now, having been, before the days of cotton, coffee, and sugar, a leading article in the traffic between Europe and India. ‘Tribute PEP ( 533 ) PEP was levied in pepper, and it was often used as a medium of exchange. When Rome was besieged by Alaric, in the beginning of the fifth century, he demanded as a ransom, besides gold and silver, 3,000 pounds of pepper. Dealers in spices were of old called pepperers, and in the twelfth century they formed a fraternity which afterwards merged into the Grocers’ Company. “Pepper is very generally employed as a condiment, and from its promoting the secre- tion of the gastric juice, it aids the digestive powers of the stomach, sometimes rendered necessary in our artificial mode of living; but, even in small quantities, it is hurtful in inflammatory habits.” Pepper, Black.—This is the most im- portant sort of pepper. It is the dried ripe berry of a climbing plant that has been culti- vated in India for ages. In the state in which we receive the berries they are black and wrinkled. They are then ground into the coarse grey powder known at table as black pepper. From Pereira we learn that there are three kinds of black pepper, distinguished by wholesale dealers. These are “ Malabar Pepper —this is the most valuable ; it is brownish black, free from stalks, and nearly free from dust. Penang pepper—this is brownish black, larger, smoother, free from stalks, but very dusty. It is sometimes used in England to manufacture white pepper. Sumatra pepper—this is the cheapest sort. It is black mixed with stalks, and contains much dust. Under the name of Sumatra pepper, some dealers include the Penang or brownish black sort, and the black Sumatra sort.” Pepper, Butter Seasoned with (see Butter med with Pepper). Pepper, Cayenne, is a compound article, the chief ingredient of which is the epidermis and pulp of the common capsicum, a plant rauch cultivated in most tropical climates. The best cayenne pepper is manufactured in the West Indies. “The berries, which are often larger than an egg, although other varieties are scarcely larger than a clove, are opened, and the seeds are taken out: the scarlet epidermis and pulp are then well beaten up with flour and salt into a paste, which is afterwards baked until quite hard, and then ground into a coarse powder, which is put into well-corked bottles for use. Other methods are used, but this is the mode of preparing the much-prized West India cayenne pepper.” Cayenne pepper has become a necessary article at table, and is highly esteemed for its flavour and the quality it is supposed to possess of aiding the diges- tion of fish and other kinds of food. One may reasonably question whether indulgence in this powerful spice is conducive to health, for though cayenne pepper, like highly-flavoured Indian soys, may occasionally assist digestion, it would perhaps be better for persons of weak digestion to abstain from. food requiring a vigorous stomach, than to employ artificial stimulants. The capsicum from which cayenne epper is mostly obtained is a native of the Bast and West Indies where it grows readily with very little care. “There are,” says Dr. Yeats, “numerous species ef capsicum, named after the form and colour of the pod, which varies considerably. All are, however, included under the Mexican name of chillies. In tropical coun- tries chillies are used in great quantities, the con- sumption asa condiment being almost universal, and nearly equal to that of salt. In India they are the principal ingredients in all curries, and form the only seasoning which the millions of the poor of that country can obtain to eat with their insipid rice. Capsicums or chillies are imported into this country in the form of red and brown pods, which are broken, dried, and packed in bales, weighing 24 cwt., principally for making pepper.” Pepper Gherkins.—Choose the gher- kins of uniform size, and not more than two inches long. Cover with salt, and leave them until the next day, then wipe each one singly with a cloth, and put them into jars, cover with boiling vinegar, and allow a dozen bay-leaves, a sprig of tarragon, a quarter of an ounce of black peppercorns, an ounce and a quarter of salt, two small blades of mace, and two shallots, to each quart of vinegar. Cover the jars, and leave them for three days; then drain off the vinegar, boil it up, let it get quite cold, pour it once more over the gherkins, and tie the jars securely down with bladder. Store in a cool dry place. Probable cost, uncertain. Pepper, Long, is the product of a plant found im the Circar mountains, where it is gathered in its wild state. It is imported into England from Bengal, but in inconsiderable quantities, as the qualities of long pepper are analogous to those of white pepper. It is a favourite in some culinary operations, particu- larly in making pickles. Pepper, Neilgherry.—The Neilgherry cones much areal ty eat Indian gourmets, is prepared from the berries of a yellow variety of the pepper-piant, cultivated for the purpose: on the Neilgherry Hills. It is flavoured with cumin and other aromatic seeds. Pepper Pot (a hotch-potch).—Put four quarts of boiling water intoa large stewpan, with a mixture of any meats that may be pre- ferred—either three pounds of gravy beef and half a pound of lean ham, or three pounds of the neck of mutton and half a pound of pickled pork ; add half a cupful of best rice, a bunch of savoury herbs, two large onions, and three large ‘potatoes coarsely grated. Skim the liquid carefully during the first half hour, and let it simmer gently until all the goodness is drawn out ofthe meat. This will require from three to fourhours. Strain the soup and let it stand until cold, so that the fat may be entirely removed. Put the liquid into the stewpan, with a large fowl cut into joints, and the meat of a lobster or crab finely minced. When the fowl is almost tender, put in a dozen small light suet dumplings, and a pint and a half of whatever vegetables are in season cut up into small pieces. In summer these will consist of peas, cauliflowers, French beans, lettuces, or spinach, and in winter of carrots, turnips, or celery. Season with cayenne and salt, if required. When the vegetables are done enough serve the entire preparation in a tureen. In the PHP ( 534 ). PER West Indies, where this dish is.u great favourite, it is so highly seasoned, that it is universally known as “pepper pot.” Time, about an hour after the fowl is put in: The ‘probable cost varies with the ingredients. Suf- ticient for eight or nine persons. Pepper Pot, West Indian.—In country houses where much company is kept, a diffi- culty is often experienced in disposing of the remains of poultry or game, and thus avoiding waste. The following dish may be recom- mended, as being palatable and convenient, and also a great favourite with those who have tried it. Procure a bottle of casaripe This sauce is sent from the West Indies. It is thick and dark in appearance, and is sold in quart bottles. Take whatever re- mains of meat or poultry you may have, cut them into convenient pieces, trim them neatly, put them into a pan, and coverthem with the sauce. Make the whole hot over the fire, and take out as much as is required for immediate use. Put a further supply of game, &c., into the pot when there are any remains, remember- ing always to cover the additional meat with sauce, and to warm it each time it is used. The sauce will keep the meat quite good. Pepper, Purchase of.—Unless one con- sumes pepper in considerable quantities, little ‘should be bought at a time. The strength of it, especially in a ground state, is constantly lessened by exposure to the air. «.. Pepper Vinegar.—Take fifty fresh red English chillies, cut them in-two, put them into a wide-neckéd bottle, and pour over them a pint of best vinegar. Let them remain for a fortnight, and shake the bottle occasionally. Strain, and bottle for use. Fresh’ vinegar may be put over the chillies three or four times, until the strength is exhausted. This vinegar is an agreeable addition to melted butter in making fish sauces, and is very useful for flavouring purposes. If genuine cayenne can be obtained, a quarter of an ounce put into a pint of vinegar will answer the same purpose. English chillies are at their best during September and October. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. to 3s. per hundred chillies. Sufficient for a pint of vinegar. Pepper Water (for flavouring).—Strain the juice of a fresh lemon into a pint and a half of cold water. Slice an onion and pound it in a mortar, with twelve peppercorns, three cloves of garlic, a table-spoonful of curry powder, and a dessert-spoontful of salt. Put all into a sauce- pan, bring the liquid to the point of boiling, cover closely, and let it simmer gently for a quanter of an hour, then strainit through muslin. Put with it a small onion which has been chopped small and fried lightly in butter. sauce. Boil up once more, and the pepper water is’ ready to be bottled. Cork -closely, and store in a cool, dry place. In India, where this re- cipe is in great repute, a piece of tamarind is substituted for the lemon-juice. Probable cost, 2d. per pint. Pepper, White. — White pepper is the product of the same plant as black pepper. To: manufacture it the black wrinkled coats of the seeds are removed by soaking and friction. They are then ground to powder. White pepper is:by many -preferred to black,'on account of its superior appearance. It is defi- cient, however, in both strength and flavour. Like. black pepper, white ‘pepper is divided by wholesale dealers into three kinds.or varie- ties. These are—TZellicherry pepper, which is of two kinds. Large or fine Tellicherry pepper is larger and whiter than any other description of white pepper, and fetches a higher price; small or coriander-like pepper is shrivelled. Common white pepper comes from Penang by Singapore; it is round, and not shrivelled; its value depends on-its size and whiteness. English bleached or white pepper—When the two preceding sorts are scarce, brown, Penang pepper is bleached. The yellowest and largest grains are chosen for this purpose, for ‘neither an expensive nor small sort would pay. , Pepper used to be subject, to scandalous adulteration. Peppermint Cordial.—Take of white sugar and water in the proportion of 196 pounds of the former to fifteen gallons of the latter. Break the sugar into pieces, put it into a 120-gallon cask, and pour the water on it. Let it stand till the next day; then put a stick into the bunghole, and rummage until the sugar is dissolved. Next add two ounces of English oil of peppermint and forty gallons of proof spirit. Mix well, and add, further, enough water to make the whole up to 106 gallons. Let the cordial stand till fine. Peppermint Drops.—Rub the inside of a brass or block-tin saucepan with a little oil or butter. Put into it halfa pound of powdered and sifted loaf sugar, and two or three table-spoonfuls of water,or of strained lemon- juice, Place the saucepan on the fire, and let the syrup boil for ten minutes, then stir‘into it a dessert-spoonful of the essence of péppermint, or one hundred, and twenty drops of the oil of peppermint. Let the mixture fall in drops upon white paper which has been well rubbed over with butter. Probable cost, Id. per ounce. : Peppers, To Pickle Quickly.—Put a hundred peppers. into a bowl, and pour over them a strong brine, made with a pint anda half of salt and as much water as will cover them. Put a board over them to keep them under the water, and let them lie for two days. Drain them, make a small incision in the side of each to let out the water, wipe them with a soft cloth, and put them into a stone jar, with half an ounce of allspice, half an ounce. of cloves, and a small lump of alum. Pour cold vinegar over them, and tie a bladder securely over the jar. When pickled in this way, the peppers will preserve their colour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d, for' this quantity. Perch. — The perch is one of the com- monest of our fresh-water fish: at the same time it is one of the best. I¢ is met with in almost all the lakes and rivers of Great Britain and Ireland, and throughout the whole of the tem- perate regions of the continent. Perch abound ‘in deep, dark, sluggish rivers, and’ delight to lie about bridges, mill-pools, and in any deep and dark holes in the still parts of water, or PER ( 585 ) PER the gentle eddies about flood-gates and similar places. When full-grown they are large fish : one weighing a pound is a good fish, and one of three pounds is thought very-large;, but they have been found weighing even eight or nine pounds. The flesh is white, firm,’ of a good flavour, and easily digested.. Perch aré so ‘tenacious of life that they’ may be carried sixty miles in straw, and yet ‘survive’ the journey. They are best crimped the moment they are taken out of the water. The pecu- liarity about the flesh of the perch is that it is very difficult to scale, so much ‘so that some. cooks boil the fish first and scale it after- wards. If this is not done, it will be found an assistance to plunge it.for a minute into boiling water, and then scale it. Perch ig in season from the latter end of May till the THE PERCH. beginning of February. When fresh, the body has a bright shining appearance, and the gills are rosy red. Ferch, like all fresh-water fish, should ‘be used as soon as possible after they are caught. Perch (a la Maitre d’Hétel).—Put as much cold water as will cover the fish into a sauce- pan, with half a dozen chives, a handful of parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Put iton the fire, and bring it to a boil. "Wash the fish in lukewarm water to free it from the slime, empty it, remove the gills and the fins,and scrape it carefully. Plunge it into the boiling water, and wher. done enough, which will be when the flesh gives way on being pressed with the finger, drain and dish it on a folded napkin, garnish with curled parsley, and send a sauce, made as follows, to table in a tureen:—Mix two ounces of fresh butter smoothly with one ounce of four. Add a quarter of a pint of milk, a table- spoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Stir the mixture over the fire without ceasing until it is on the point of boiling. Pour it into a tureen, add to it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and serve very hot. Time to boil the fish, according to the size: small fish, ten minutes ; large, half an hour. Probable cost uncertain, perch being seldom offered, for sale. , Sufficient, a moderate- sized perch for each person. : Perch, Boiled.—Wash the fish in luke- warm water to take off 'thé slime, scale it care- fully, empty it, take out the gills, cut off the fins, ‘place the fish in boiling salted water, and’ keep it boiling until it is done enough. In order to ascertain when this point-is reached, press the fish with the fingers; if it gives way to the touch it is done. Take it up, ‘drain it, and ‘serve‘on a lot dish. ‘Garnish with parsley, and. send melted butter, parsley sauce, or Dutch sauce, to table in a' tureen: “Time, about a quarter of an hour for a moderate-sized fish. - Probable cost uncertain, perch ‘being seldom offered for sale. - Sufficient for one person. tee j Perch, Boiled (another way). — Clean them carefully and put them in a fish-kettle with as much cold spring-water as will cover them, adding a handful 3 salt. Set them on a quick fire till they boil. When they boil, set them on. one side to boil gently for about ten minutes, according to their size. ‘Perch, ‘Fried.—Wash, scale, ‘and clean the ‘fish carefully, wipe them dry, and flour them lightly ‘all over; then rub off the flour, dip them ‘into’ beaten egg, and afterwards into finely-grated bread-crumbs, and fry theni in plenty of boiling fat, until they are nicely browned: Drain them for a few minutés on an inverted sieve, serve on a hot dish, and garnish with parsley. Send shrimp siaiice, anchovy sauce, or plain melted butter, to table in atureen. Time to fry, according to their size. Probable cost, uncertain,’ perch being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, four or five for a dish. " i * Perch, Fried, with Herbs.—Take two moderate-sized perch. Wash, empty, and scale them carefully, wipe them dry, and Jay them on a dish. ‘Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them, and pour on them six table-spoonfuls of oil. Let them soak for half an hour, and turn them once during that time. Drain them well, and cover them thickly with finely-grated bread-crumbs, seasoned with pepper and ‘salt, and flavoured with a powdered clove, or a little grated. nutmeg, a table-spoonful. of chopped parsley, and a pinch of powdered thyme. Fry them in boiling fat till the fish are paghey browned, serve. on a hot dish, garnish wit: parsley, and send melted butter, parsley sauce, or piquant. sauce to table ina tureen. Time to fry, ten minutes or more, according to size. Sufficient for two persons. “Perch, Potted.—Take ten or.‘ twelve moderate-sized. perch. Empty them, take’ out the gills, skin them, and cut off the heads, tails, and fins. Put them into a pie-dish that will only just hold them when they are closely packed, sprinkle’a little salt over them, and Jay on them a muslin bag’ containing the following ingredients, which have been crushed to powder: —eight peppercorns, two chillies, four allspice, half an irich of ginger, a bay-leaf, and a laurel- leaf. “Put ten ounces of ‘fresh butter, cut into slices, upon' the fish, cover it closely, and bake in a gentle oven. When done, lift out the bag, and keep the fish in a cool place until wanted. Serve cold. Time to bake, two hours. Pro- pable cost uncertain, perch being seldom offered for sale.’ Sufficient for'ten or twelve pérsons. Perch, Stewed. —Take three, or four moderate-sized perch. Wash, scale, and empty them, and. take out. the gills, put, them into a stewpan, and barely: cover.‘them: with : weak PER ( 536 ) PER stock, or water. Put with them a large onion cut into slices, four cloves, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two pinches of salt, and two pinches of pepper. Simmer gently until the fish is done enough. In order to ascertain when this is the case, press the flesh with the finger, when it should give way to the touch. Lift out the perch, and drain them. Strain the liquid in which they were stewed, thicken it with a little flour and butter, and boil it quickly for a few minutes. Stir into it a wine-glassful of claret, a table- spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy, a small pinch of cayenne, and a table-spoonful of chopped pars- ley. Skin the fish, preserve the fins, put them upon a hot dish, strain the sauce over them, and put the fins at each side of them; serve very hot. Time to stew the perch, fifteen or twenty minutes, according to size. Probable cost un- certain, perch being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for two or three persons. Perch Stewed in Wine.—Like all fish of its kind, the perch, though very good when plainly dressed, is slightly insipid; it is there- forevery often cooked, as the great Izaak Walton says, ‘‘with trouble and charges.” When economy is not studied, the following will be found an excellent dish :—Take three medium- sized perch, wash, then scale and empty them, and take out the gills. Lay them in a stewpan, and just cover them with equal parts of sherry and stock, or, if preferred, with sherry only. Put with them a sliced onion, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a°small clove of garlic, and a little pepper and salt, and let them simmer gently until they are sufficiently cooked. Drain them, and keep them hot until the sauce is made. Strain the liquor, put it into a stewpan, and mix gradually with it an ounce of flour which has been smoothly worked with an ounce of butter; let it boil, then add a large table-spoonful of chopped parsley and half an ounce of cold butter. Stir the sauce until the butter is dissolved. Take the whole of the skin off the perch, pour the sauce over them, and stick the red fins into the middle of the backs; serve as quickly as possible. Time, about a quarter of an hour to stew the perch. It is seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for two or three persons. Perch, Water Souchy.—This is the best way to dress perch. When they are plen- tiful, take the smallest fish, clean them, cut them into pieces, and boil slowly with some parsley- roots, and whole pepper, and salt, till a strong broth is obtained. Strain the broth through fine muslin, pick out the parsley-roots, slice them, and return them to the strained liquor, in which the larger perch, previously crimped, are to be boiled. When about done, introduce a few bunches of parsley previously scalded in water to preserve their green colour. Serve in a deep dish, accompanied by slices of brown bread-and-butter. No sauce is required, the broth, with the addition at table of pepper and salt, being sufficient. , Perch, Water Souchy (another way).— Put into a saucepan as thuch water as will barely cover the fish. Throw into it a little pepper and salt, and a handful of parsley. Wash, clean, and scale the fish. Take out the gills and cut off the fins, but let the milt and liver remain inside. As soon as the parsley is soft, lay in the fish. Put with it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and let it simmer gently until it is done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with the liquid in which it was cooked poured over it. If preferred, the fish may be filleted, and weak stock substituted for the water. Send brown bread and butter to table as an accompaniment. Time to boil, ten to twelve minutes. Perch is seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, one perch for one person. Périgord Pie.—This celebrated pie de- rives its name from Périgord, in France, which is a place celebrated for its truffles. It will be evident from this that truffles enter largely into its composition; and as they are both expensive and scarce, it will generally be found more satisfactory to purchase the pies which are imported than to endeavour to manufacture them at home. Nevertheless, as there may be some who prefer making to buying them, the following recipe is given :—Procure some fine truffles, and be particular to smell them, and reject any that are at all musty; one pound will be required for three partridges. Soak them for two or three hours in fresh water, to loosen the earth about them, then rinse them well, and scrub them with «a hard brush. Peel them, mince the small and broken ones, and put the rest aside for a little while. Truss, as if for boiling, as many partridges as will be required for the size of the pie. Bone and lard them, and season them with a little salt, pepper, and powdered spice. Make some highly-seasoned forcemeat, according to the directions given for quenelles. Mix with it the minced truffles, and stuff the birds with whole truffles and a portion of the forcemeat. Make a raised crust (see Paste for Raised Pies). Line it with slices of bacon and forcemeat. Place the birds in it, backs downmost, fill the vacant places, with forcemeat, lay a slice of bacon on the top, put on the lid, ornament as fancy dictates, and bake in a well-heated oven. Périgord Pie (another way).—See Game Périgord Pie). Périgueux Sauce.—Soak, rinse, and scrub four or fivetruffles. Mince them finely, and put them into a stewpan, with half a pint of good brown sauce, a piece of garlic the size of a pea, and a glassful of sherry or madeira. Simmer for ten minutes, then add two table- spoonfuls of the gravy from meat or half a tea- spoonful of Liebig’s extract of meat, dissolved in a little boiling water, and half a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy. Serve with roast chicken, &c. When no brown sauce is at hand it may be easily made, as follows :—Work equal parts of butter and flour smoothly to- gether. Stir the mixture over a gentle fire for three minutes, until it is brightly coloured, then add, gradually, as much stock as will make it of the consistency of thick cream. Season with pepper and salt, and boil the sauce for a minute or two, when it is ready for use. Time, PER ( 637 ) PER ten minutes to boil the sauce. Probable cost, varying with the price of the truffles. Suffi- cient for six or seven persons. Periwinklo.—Littorina littorea is pre-emi- uently the periwinkle of the British coasts. Immense quantities are brought to the London market, and form a considerable article of food among the poorer classes. After being boiled, the animal is picked out of the shell with a pin. Periwinkles, Boiled.—Wash the peri- winkles in several waters, and then let them soak in plenty of fresh water for half an hour; when that is done, wash them again. These precau- tions will be found necessary to cleanse the fish from the mud and sand which adhere to them. Before boiling, shake them up to make them withdraw into their shells. Put them into a saucepan, and cover with boiling sea-water that has stood a little while to settle, and then been poured off from the sediment. Boil quickly for twenty minutes, and serve, accompanied by brown bread and_ butter. Probable cost, 2d. a pint. Sufficient for three or four persons. Perricot.—To make this liqueur take four ounces each of the kernels of apricots and nec- tarines; mash them in a mortar along with eight ounces of peach-leaves and half that quantity of black currant-leaves; add a drachm of.,beaten cinnamon and a drachm of mace. Put all these ingredients into five quarts of prepared spirit, let them infuse for a week, then draw off about two quarts, or, if it runs clear, five pints, with a gentle heat. Perry and Cider.—These are fermented beverages, prepared from the juice of pears and apples. They are not usually reckoned among the wines, but they belong to that class of beverages as much as those obtained from cur- rants, gooseberries, and other fruits. Both are of ancient date: Pliny tells us that they were made by the Romans in Italy. There are many varieties of pears suited for making perry. In Gloucestershire the Tinton squash is in the highest esteem; itisan early fruit, and remarkable for the tenderness of its flesh. The perry obtained from itis pale and sweet, yet uncommonly fine, and of a strong body. The Oldfield pear is another favourite ; it yields a finely-flavoured liquor. The Bar- land pear of Worcestershire is in high repute, as is also the red pear. The best pears for perry, or, atleast, the kinds which hitherto have been deemed the fittest for making the liquor, are so excessively tart and harsh, that no one can think of eating them as fruit: even hungry swine will not feed on them.. All pears which possess colour and richness are capable of making perry, but a good perry pear requires an assemblage of qualities which are not often met with in the same fruit. “It must contain a large proportion of sugar, or its juice can never possess sufficient strength; and unless it be at the same time astringent, the liquor produced from it will be acetous when- ever it ceases to be saccharine; in the latter state it will agree with few constitutions, in the former with none. The juice of the best perry pears, according to one authority, ‘is so harsh and rough as to occasion a long-continued. heat and irritation in the throat when the fruit is attempted to be eaten; yet by being simply, pressed from the pulp, it becomes rich and sweet, without more roughness than is agree- able to almost every palate.’ This circumstance, though extraordinary, does not stand alone in. the vegetable world; there are many cases where similar changes take place with acrid vegetable substances.”’ To afford perry in the greatest perfection, the pear must be in a certain state of maturity : it should be ripe without being either mellow or decaying. The produce of the same tree ripens very irregularly; the planter must therefore have a considerable number of each kind he plants, or he will rarely have a suffi- cient quantity of fruit ready to be ground at the same time. Even when the pears have fallen spontaneously from the trees, a fourth at least of some kinds will be found immature or decaying, and quite unfit for making fine perry. These ought to be separated from the rest; though they rarely or never are. To speak now of the apples required for cider: no juice can be depended on for making a good liquor that does not possess at the same time body and flavour; the former depends on the juice contained in the pulp or flesh of the fruit, and the latter on the juice contained in the external skin or peel, and in the seeds or pips. The most agreeable apples to the palate are those which abound in a juice at once sweet. and acidulous, whereas those which suit best. for cider have the juice both sweet and acerb, with little mixture of acid. Hence the best. fruits for cider manufacture, with few excep- tions, are too astringent to be in demand for table use. Perry and cider are obtained from their respective fruits pretty much in the same way. To describe the process of making the one, will enable the reader to understand how to make the other. We shall describe, then, the manu- facture of cider, that being decidedly the most popular liquor. “ Cider is manufactured,” says a writer in the English Cyclopedia, “ with very rude machinery, by the following process:—The apples are thrown into a circular stone trough, usually about eighteen feet in diameter, called the chase, round which the runner, a heavy circular stone, is turned by one or sometimes two horses. When the fruit has been ground until the rind and the core are so completely reduced that 4 handful of ‘ must,’ when squeezed, will all pass without lumps between the fingers, and the maker sees from the white spots that are in it that the pips have been broken, a square horse- hair cloth is spread under a Screw-Dpress ; and some of the must is poured with pails upon the hair, the edges and corners of which are folded inwards so as to prevent its escape. Ten or twelve of these hairs are piled and filled one upon the other, and then surmounted with a frame of thick boards. [This is the process in Hereford district. In Devonshire a lever press is used, and ‘reed,’ unthrashed straw, is placed in layers in-the place of hairs. The method used in the South of France for expressing oil from olives is identically the same]. Upon this PER ( 638 ) PER the screw is slowly worked down by-a lever; and with the pressure, a thick brown juice exudes from the hairs, leaving within them only a dry residue, which, in years when apples are scarce, is sometimes mixed with water, ground again, and the liquid pressed out as before. This latter product is called ‘ water cider,’ a thin unpalatable liquor, which is given to the labourers early in the year. “The cider is received by a channel in the frame of the press upon which the hairs stand, emptying into a flat tub called a ‘trin.” From the trin it is poured with-buckets or ‘ racking cans’ into casks, placed either out of doors or in sheds where there is a free current of air. In about three or four days, more or less ac- cording to the heat of the weather, the liquor usually will ferment; the thick heavier parts: will subside as a sediment at the bottom of the cask, and the lighter become bright clear cider. This should then be ‘ racked,’ or drawn off, into another cask, and the sediment be put to strain through linen bags, and what oozes from them should be restored. “Tt is during the fermentation that the management of cider is least understood, and there is the greatest hazard of injury. It is necessary also to know what fruit will by itself make good cider, which kinds should be ground together, and what proportions should be mixed. But itis in the preservation of the strength and flavour after the cider is ground that the principal difficulty consists :- stight fermentation will leave the liquid thick and unpalatable; rapid fermentation will impair both its strength and durability; excessive fermentation will make it sour, harsh, and thin. Other things being equal, that cider will probably be the best in which the vinous fermentation has proceeded slowly, and has not been confounded with the acetous. The remedies used in cases of cider not clearing, are either yeast, or the addition of cider in a state of fermentation, ‘isinglass, eggs, or a quart of fresh blood stirred up with the liquor, in which last case it is to be racked on the following day: these do not always prove effectual. But the common evils are excess or rapidity of fermentation; and if a better quality than farm-house or ‘family drink’ is sought, cider requires so much care to prevent its being spoiled, that the best and most careful makers frequently have it looked at during each night for some weeks after it is made; and if the bubbling hissing noise, the sign of fermenta- tion, becomes frequent or too loud, the liquor is immediately racked off into another cask. This check often requires to be repeated several times, but although at each racking some portion of the strength will be lost, the bod: flavour and sweetness will chiefly be retained. It is not the habit of the farmer to add sugar, treacle, brandy, or any colouring matter to the liquor; it is only adulterated in the hands of cider dealers and publicans who will not lose a hogshead, and if one has turned sour or has been otherwise damaged, it must be ‘* doctored’ in order to render it marketable.” At the beginning of January the cider is moved into cellars. In March the liquor is bunged down; it may be used soon afterwards, though it will greatly improve by keeping. If bottled cider is required, it should be bottled and wired in the September or October after it is made. Some persons. prefer an earlier time— the.end.of: April or the beginning of May; a greater degree of effervescence is thus attained, but a considerable loss accrues from the number of bottles that will be burst. 3 ag The quantity of cider consumed by workmen is very large. The usual allowance given by masters in Herefordshire is two or three quarts a day; and in harvest-time many labourers drink in a day ten or twelve quarts of a liquor that in a stranger’s mouth would be mistaken for vinegar. The men do not like sweet cider. Cider of good quality is manufactured ‘in Ireland, in the counties of Waterford and Cork; in Normandy, whence we have many of our best apples ; in Belgium; and in Germany, the product of the last-named country being of inferior quality. It is also made in abundance, and of excellent quality, in many parts of the United States. ‘ ; Good cider contains about six per cent. of proof'spirit. It is sometimes adulterated with lead, with a view to concealing tartness. This is a highly injurious practice, lead being a dangerous poison. Common cider is also exten- sively employed for the manufacture of spurious wine. ‘ a et Notwithstanding the extensive scale on which cider is generally manufactured in‘ the cider counties, it is by no means necessary ; and it is quite possible to make it in small quantities of as excellent a quality as is‘ procurable in any other manner. The superabundant apples of. a moderately large garden may be economically converted to this use, and without a great deal of trouble. The machinery necessary for making cider on this domestic scale is simple, and easily obtainable at a small expense. The following answers the purpose as well as more costl apparatus :— . . A tub is to be procured, made of strong staves; the bottom is to be: much thicker than usual, and the peripheral edge of it must be at least ‘half an inch thick where it is let into the chimb. The iron hoops must be strong, especially the two lower ones on the chimb. This tub is to answer the purposes of a crushing trough ; it must sustain the strokes of a heavy pounder, and hence the necessity of its being made as strong as possible. ...The diameter of the bottom of the tub should be only eighteen inches ; its height about the same. set The next article is the pounder. This is to be made of any hard wood. Its shape may be easily conceived by imagining a cone, about the size of an ordinary loaf of sugar, with a handle, proceeding from its apex, of about four feet in length. The base of the cone should be: per- fectly flat. The press which will be found most con- venient, is the common square clothes’ press. It consists of a rectangular horizontal board, three feet in length, a foot and a half in breadth, and at least four inches in thickness. At each end of this, and mid-way in the breadth, is erected a perpendicular square pillar, the trans- verse section of which is about four inches square; the height of each pillar is three feet. PER ( 639 ) PER From the top of one pillar to the other is extended a cross-bar of considerable scantling, not under six inches square, and through the middle of this-is a hole with « concave screw, which receives the convex screw that constitutes the press. ‘The perpendicular convex screw is attached at ‘its lower end to a pressing board, which slides up and down between the two pillars, and has had square pieces cut out of its ends to receive the pillars, which by this con- trivance keep it always in its place, while it follows the screw in its ascent or descent.. The pressing board follows the screw because. the latter is so attached that it can turn freely in the pressing board, but cannot be drawn out. The pressing board is made equally thick with the rectangular board which constitutes. the basis of the whole press. The screw, near where it is inserted into the pressing board is made to swell into a bulb; and through this are two cross holes to admit an iron bar, for the purpose of acting as a lever in working the press. The whole is made of hard wood, firmly put together by dove-tails, and strengthened with iron cramps. The pressing board may be screwed down even until it meets the bottom board; or it. may be screwed up until it arrives at the top crgss-bar. ms It is obvious, from the construction of this press, that if a bag of apple-juice be submitted to its action, the juice will be forced out, but will run over its bottom board and go to waste. In order to prevent this, a tin tray is made use of. This tray is rectangular, its area is a little less than that of the pressing board; it is shallow, its rims being only about two inches in height. Proceeding from one side, correspond- ing with the front: of the press, a pipe emerges, so that whatever juice is forced through the bag of pulp will trickle down the sides of the bag, will be received in the tray, and from this will flow through the pipe into a vessel placed beneath. The pipe is somewhat bent downward for the purpose of more freely delivering itself. It is to be observed. that when.a bag of pulp is to be pressed, it must be set standing on its end in the middle of the tray, and immediately under the screw above. The bag need not be tied round its mouth, but only folded over loosely; the pressing board will keep it suffi- ciently tight. The bag may be made of strong canvass or hair-cleth, strongly sewed with double thread or -pack-thread. These are the chief articles of apparatus required for domestic, cider-making. pet In crushing the apples, it will not answer to throw a, numberof, them into the tub at once, and to commence pounding them. In this way vast labour would be expended in doing the business very badly. The proper mode is to throw in half a dozen first, and crush them well, which will be done with three or four strokes of the pounder; ‘then another half dozen may be thrown in and similarly treated. When there is so much pulp in the tub as to embarrass the further crushing of the fruit, it must betransferredinto any other wooden vesscl. The apples being all reduced to a tolerably small pulp, the next part of the process is to express the juice. The pulp thrown into the canvas bag is to be put under the press, and the juice forced out by a gradual and steadily- urged action of the. screw. . In: this way the juice may be drawn out perfectly transparent ; but if the screw be urged. suddenly, or .by starts, the juice will be muddy, and the quantity of lees will occasion some loss of cider. It will be found also that when the pressing, board can be forced no tighter, by leaving it un- touched for a few minutes it will be easy to force it a little more, and by repeating, this process a much greater product of juice may be obtained than if force enough had. been applied at first to endanger the press. |. ., _ Having procured ‘the necessary quantity of juice, the next step is its fermentation. A very convenient fermenting apparatus is a cask which has no bung-hole, or has it well stopped up. This cask is set standing on either of its ends; a cock is fixed in one of the staves, about an inch above the bottom chimb; so that in drawing off the liquid the sediment cannot also run.. In the centre of the top of the cask, that is, in the centre of its other end, a hole-is to be bored, of such size as will admit a large bottle- | cork. The cask set on end should be filled with apple-juice through the cork-hole at the top, and it may be left to ferment at the natural temperature of the air should it be not under 60° in the shade. If the air be lower than that degree, the cask must be placed near the fire. In some hours (many will elapse if the month be November, and especially if. it be cold for the season) the fermentation commences, the head of yeast rises up through the cork-hole, is retained by the chimb, falls back, into liquor for the most part, and runs back into the cask, leay- ing the true yeast on the top outside. This ar- rangement succeeds better in the beginning. of September; but if the season be much more advanced, it will be better not to fill up the cask entirely. In this way the yeast will not be thrown out of the liquor, in,which, at this cool, season, its presence is so necessary to continue the languid fermentation that alone can be expected when the quantity is small. If there were some hundred gallons in one body under fermentation, the case would be different, and it might be an object to. remove some of the yeast, so as to restrain an inordinate action. In cider-making, any degree of fermentation that does more than. generate a due quantity of carbonic acid to impregnate the liquid for. the purpose of taste. is injurious.. It need not possess any intoxicating quality; an agreeable taste is the only quality to be expected from it ; and this will be attained by fermenting until the excessive sweetness of the apple is removed, and is replaced by the sharpneas of the. carbonic acid, which just at that period will have been, generated in sufficient quantity. The pleasing sourness of .the malic acid will remain un- altered; and if the cider, when finished, comprises the three qualities of sweetness, sharpness, and acidity, without a predominance of any of them, the fermentation may be con- sidered to have been of the most successful kind. The criteria by which the, liquor may be known to be sufficiently fermented are. easily ‘understood.. In a large vessel not full.a burn- ing candle may be let down; if it burn there, the fermentation is over. As soon as the cider PER ( 540 ) PET has ceased to ferment, it is to be drawn off the lees by boring a gimlet-hole at the bottom of the cask, a little above the chimb. The liquor as it runs out is to be received in a clean cask, which when full is to be bunged, and may be kept for draught. Or, after remaining in this cask for two or three weeks, it may be drawn off and bottled, when it will soon get into good order. If the cider be made in cold weather it will require a longer time to clear; and the same will happen if there had been a very considerable ratio of crabs amongst the apples. A little dissolved isinglass added will soon clear it; but this tends to flatten. These, and a variety of minor circumstances can be only learned and provided for by practice.— Donovan. Before bottling cider, examine it, and see whether it is clear and sparkling. If not so, clarify it in the same way as beer, and leave it for a fortnight. The night before you intend to put it into bottles, take the bung out of the cask, and leave it so till the next day. The filled bottles should not be corked down till the day after ; if this is done immediately, they will burst by keeping. Use only the best corks. Champagne bottles are the sort usually chosen for cider. It is customary to wire down the corks, and cover them with tin-foil, just like champagne. A few bottled at a time may be laid to ripen in a warm place. Should the cider be wanted for immediate use, or for consump- tion during the cooler months of the year, drop a small piece of loaf sugar into each bottle before corking. Or, which comes to the same thing, cork the bottles two or three hours after they are filled. In summer, or for long keep- ing, this practice, however, is inadmissible. Store the bottled cider in a Kool cellar; the quality will greatly improve by age. Cider for biting should be of good quality, sound and piquant, and at least a twelvemonth old. When out of condition it is unfit for bottling. Mr. Knight, a well-known authority on the subject, states, that in the manufacture of perry the pears are ground and pressed in the same way as apples in the manufacture of cider; but that it is not usual for the reduced pulp to be allowed to remain any length of time with- out being pressed. In Herefordshire, and in the counties in its neighbourhood, it has never been the practice to blend the juices of the different varieties of the pear, in order to cor- rect the defects of one kind by the opposite roperties of another. It is, however, Mr. Knight allows, more easy to find the required portion of sugar and of astringency in three or four varieties than in one; hence, he supposes, a judicious mixture of fruits affords a prospect of great benefit. The method of fermenting perry is nearly the same as that of fermenting cider. The former, however, does not afford the same indi- cations as the latter by which the proper peried of racking-off may be known. “The thick scum that collects on the surface of cider rarely appears in the juice of the pear, and during the time of the suspension of its fermentation the excessive brightness of the former liquor is seldom seen in the latter; but where the frnit has been regularly ripe, its produce will generally become moderately clear and quiet in a few days after it is made, and it should then be drawn off from its grosser lees. In the after-management of perry the method is the same as that of cider; but it does not so well bear situations where it is much exposed to change of temperature. In bottle it almost always retains its good qualities, and in that situation it is always advisable to put it, if it remains sound and perfect, at the conclusion of the first succeeding summer. Perry is generally thought inferior to cider. Some hold that it resembles champagne more than gooseberry-wine does; and it is said, when of the best quality, to have been occa- sionally sold for champagne. Perry and Cider, Wholesomeness of.—Perry should be used in moderation by those liable to stomach and bowel complaints, as it sometimes causes colic, especially if it is anywise acid. Either alone, however, or mixed with equal parts of water, it is, when of good quality, an excellent refreshing summer beve- rage. ‘‘Cider,” says one writer, “is not so nutritious as malt liquor, but it forms an excel- lent beverage for labouring men in the summer months, its acid assisting materially in quench- ing thirst. Rough Herefordshire cider has been recommended as an antiseptic in cases of low fever.” Persian Sherbet (a refreshing summer beverage).—Boil six er eight stalks of green rhubarb and a quarter of a pound of ‘raisins or figs, cut into slices, in three pints of water. ‘When the liquid has boiled gently for half an hour, strain it through muslin, and stir into it as much lemon or orange syrup as is agreeable to the taste, and a few drops of rose water or orange-flower water. Probable cost, 4d. Suffi- cient for two or three persons. Persian Sherbet (another way).—Pick a pound of ripe strawberries, and bruise them well with the back of a wooden spoon. Put them into a basin, with a fresh lemon, cut into thin slices, and a tea-spoonful of orangesflower water, and pour over them a quart of cold water. Let them remain for three hours, then strain the liquid through muslin, and squeeze the fruit well to make it yield as much juice as possible. Mix with the juice a pound of refined loaf sugar, and stir until the sugar is dissolved; then strain it again, and place the vessel con- taining the sherbet on ice until it is wanted for use. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for nearly three pints of sherbet. Persian Sherbet, as Sold in the Shops.—Mix two ounces of bicarbonate of soda with two ounces of tartaric acid, and four ounces of powdered loaf sugar. Flavour the mixture with thirty drops of the essence of lemon, and add two or three drops of any slight perfume. Keep the powder in a closely- stoppered bottle. "When wanted for use, mixa tea-spoonful in half a tumbler of water. _ Petits Morceaux (for Dessert).—Rub the rind of half a lemon upon four ounces of loaf sugar; crush it to powder, and mix with it the white of one egg which has been whisked to a firm froth, and six ounces of sweet almonds, and PET ( 641) PHE six bitter ones which have been blanched and chopped fine. Roll out half a pound of good puft-paste to the thickness of half an inch, spread the mixture upon it, and stamp it out in fancy shapes, such as rings, diamonds, hearts, &c. Bake the morceaux on a buttered tin in a well-heated oven, and let them get cold before they are used. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. Pewter, Vessels of.—There are three kinds of pewter in common use, called “ plate- metal,” “triple,” and “ley.” Plate-metal is said to be formed of 112 parts of tin, six or seven of antimony, and a small portion of brass or copper to harden it. It is the best kind, and used for making dishes. The sort termed triple is used for alehouse pots, and is com- posed of lead and tin, with a little brass. The Jey pewter, used for wine and spirit measures, has more lead. Lead being a cheaper article than tin, it is the interest of the manufacturer to employ as much as he can of the former metal; and, consequently, pewter is apt to contain too much of it. Pewter Vessels, To Cloan.—Pewter vessels may be cleaned by means of emery powder or whiting, or with a solution of potash or of soda to remove grease. Pheasant.—The pheasant, almost more than any other bird, requires to be hung as long as it possibly can be with safety. When this is done, the flesh acquires a delicious flavour, peculiar to itself; when it is not done, the flesh is tough and flavourless. The length of time that the bird should be kept depends, of course, upon the state of the weather. Incold, frosty weather three weeks may be safely per- mitted; in warm, damp weather four or five days will probably be found sufficient. As a general rule, the bird is ready for the spit when it begins to smell slightly, and to change colour; certainly it should never be cooked until the blood begins to drop from the bill. The hen pheasant is more delicate in flavour than the cock. The old birds may be known by the length and sharpness of the spurs, which in the young ones are short and round. Young pheasants are, of course, to be preferred. These birds are in season from October to February, Pheasant (4 la Bonne Femme).—Pick, draw, and singe a well-hung pheasant, and put it into a buttered stewpan with three ounces of good beef dripping, and six ounces of ham, fat and lean together, cut into inch squares. Fry over a gentle fire until the pheasant is equally and lightly browned. all over, then add a table-spoonful of chutnee, and three or four large Spanish onions cut into thin slices. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer gently until the pheasant is done enough, and the onions are quite soft. Put the bird on a hot dish. Beat the onions over the fire for eight or ten minutes, season with pepper and salt, and put them round the bird. Serve imme- diately. Time, about an hour to stew the pheasant. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. when in full season. : Pheasant (3 la Sainte Alliance). An epi- cure’s dish.—_ Take a well-hung cock pheasant draw it, and truss it for roasting. Stuff it with a forcement made as follows:—Mince finely the flesh and intestines of two woodcocks or snipes, add to them two ounces of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, a good pinch of cayenne, a small bunch of savoury herbs finely powdered, and as many chopped truffles as will be required to fill the pheasant. Truss the bird firmly, and roast. it, before a clear fire, basting liberally with fresh PHEASANT. butter. Lay under it, in the pan, a round of toasted bread upon which a little of the stuffing has been spread, and serve the bird on the toast. Brillat Savarin, with whom this recipe originated, says that a pheasant prepared thus is fit for beings better than men. Send brown gravy and bread sauce to table separately. Time to roast, from three-quarters of an hour to one hour and 4 quarter,.according to the size. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. when in full season. Sufficient for three or four persons. te Pheasant and Macaroni.—Pick the meat from the remains of a cold roast pheasant ; carefully remove the skin and sinews, and with two forks pull the flesh into pieces about half aninch long. Weigh it, and put it aside until wanted. Place the bones and trimmings in a saucepan with as much water as will cover them, and let them simmer gently until all the goodness is drawn out, and the sauce is so much reduced that it will merely moisten the meat; then, supposing that the latter weighs about half a pound, put with the gravy two shallots, a little salt and pepper, half a salt-spoonful ‘of grated nutmeg, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a table-spoonful of sherry. Thicken with a table-spoonful of flour, mixed smoothly with two ounces of butter, and let the gravy simmer gently twenty minutes longer. Strain it, put it back into the saucepan, and let it boil up. A few minutes before the pheasant is to be served put the meat into the gravy, let it warm through without boiling, then pour it into the centre of a hot dish, and place round it some macaroni prepared as follows :—Throw six ounces of good macaroni into three pints of boiling water, add. a little pepper and salt, and simmer. gently for twenty minutes. Drain well, and put it back into the saucepan with a, pint of good stock, a small tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of unmixed mustard, half a PHS ( 542 ) PHE salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg,. a pinch of capentin, and a salt-spoonful of pepper. Let the mixture boil until the macaroni is tender, then add a table-spoonful of grated Parmesan ana an ounce of butter. Simmer a quarter of an hour longer, shaking and tossing the sauce- pan to mix the macaroni thoroughly with the cheese ; then serve. Time, three hours. Pro- bable cost, 1s. 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. asant, Boiled.— Pick, draw, and oe the pheasant, and truss it firmly, as if for boiling. Cover with buttered paper, wrap it in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and after it has once boiled up draw it to the side, and let it simmer as gently as possible until it is done enough. The more gently it is simmered, the better the bird will look, and the tenderer it will be. Put it on a hot dish, pour a small quantity of sauce over it, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Celery sauce, horse- radish sauce, oyster sauce, white sauce, soubise sauce, or even plain onion sauce, may all be served with boiled pheasant. Time to boil, half an hour from the time of boiling, for a small young bird; three-quarters of an hour for a larger one; one hour or more for an old one. Probable cost of pheasants, about 3s. each when in full season. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pheasant, Boudins of (4 la Richelieu). —Pick the meat from a cold pheasant. Care- fully remove the skin and sinews, and pound the flesh in a mortar to a smooth paste. Sup- posing there to be twelve, ounces of pheasant- meat, mix with it twelve ounces of pounded potatoes, or eight ounces of panada (see Pa- nada), and six ounces of fresh butter. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, pound them together, and season rather highly with salt, cayenne, and powdered mace. Bind the mixture together with the unbeaten yolks of five eggs added one at a time, the whites of two, two table-spoonfuls of white sauce, and, last of all, two table-spoonfuls of boiled onions chopped small. As it is very important that the preparation should be as light and spongy as possible, it is well to test a small quantity by making it up into a ball and poaching it in hot water, so that if it is not of the proper con- sistency, it may be made so before the whole is cooked. If not firm enough, more eggs should be added. If too firm, add a small quantity of water. Spread the forcemeat out on a dish, and make it up into small cutlets, about three inches long, two inches wide, and a quarter of an inch thick. Drop these carefully into very hot.-water, and poach them gently for a few minutes. The water should not be allowed to boil, or the boudins will be spoilt. Take them up, drain well, let them get cold, then dip them into egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in hot butter until they are lightly browned. Serve in a circle on a hot dish, and send some good gravy to table in a‘tureen. The may be made as follows :—Peel and slice four onions. Fry them in butter until they are lightly browned, dredge an ounce of flour over them, and pour upon them half a pint of stock, or, failing this, a tea-spoonful of Liebig’s ex- tract of meat dissolved in half a pint of boiling water. Add a glassful of sherry or claret, the bones of the pheasant broken into small pieces, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer the sauce over a gentle fire for twenty minutes, strain through a sieve, and it is ready for use. Time, four or five minutes to simmer the boudins, To be fried _in hot fat until. they are lightly _ browned. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. each when in full season. Sufficient, boudins made from the flesh of a moderate-sized pheasant, for six or eight persons. Pheasant, Braised, and Rump Steak.—Pick, draw, and singe a pheasant, and truss it as for boiling. Put into it a little forcemeat made with three ounces of finely- grated bread-crumbs, two ounces of fresh butter, the eighth part of a nutmeg prated, and a little salt, pepper, and cayenne. Cover the breast with slices of fat bacon, and fasten them on securely with twine. Though this bacon is not served with the pheasant, it will be found excellent for breakfast if it is boiled two or three minutes before being used. Take two pounds of, good rump-steak, three-quarters of an inch thick. Lay two or three. slices of fat bacon on this. Rub the inside of a good- sized saucepan with a clove of garlic. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in it, put in the beef, and round it a dozen chestnuts which have been skinned and scalded. Lay the pheasant upon it, breast uppermost, adda scraped carrot, three or four of the outer sticks of a head of celery cut into small pieces, four shallots, a good-sized lump of sugar, 'a small tea-spoonful of pepper, half a tea-spoonful of mustard, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, a tea-spoonful of soy, and a dessert-spoonful of mushroom. ketchup. Pour over these rather less than a pint of boiling stock or water, cover the sauce- pan closely, bring the contents to a boil, then draw the pan to the side, and let them simmer as gently as possible for quite three hours. Serve the beef and the pheasant: on separate dishes, and as hot as possible, with a little of the gravy strained over the pheasant, and the rest in a tureen. The nuts should be used to garnish the beef. If an acid flavour is liked, the juice of half a lemon may be added to the gravy, and a little salt put in if neces- sary, but this will depend upon the quality of the bacon. Probable cost, about 8s., with the pheasant at 3s., and the rump-steak at 1s. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. ; Pheasant, Broiled.—Pick, draw, and singe the pheasant, and divide it neatly into joints. Fry these in a little fat until they are equally and lightly browned all over. Drain them well, season with salt and cayenne, and dip them into egg and bread-crumbs. Broil over a clear fire, and serve on a hot dish, with brown sauce, mushroom sauce, or piquant sauce, as an accompaniment. The remains of a cold roast pheasant may be treated in this. way. Time to broil, about ten minutes. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. each when in full season. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pheasant Cutlets.—Take two young e PHE ( 548 ) PHE well-hung pheasants. Pluck, draw, and singe them, and cut them into neat joints. . Take out the bones carefully, and shape the joints into cutlets; flatten these with the cutlet- bat, season rather highly, and cover them thickly with egg and: finely-grated bread- crumbs. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan, with a carrot, a turnip, an onion, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a little pepper and salt, and as much water as will cover them. Let them stew slowly, until the flavour of the herbs, &c., is drawn out, then thicken the gravy, and strain it. Fry the cutlets in a sauté pan with butter until they are brightly browned all over. Serve on a hot dish with one of the small bones stuck into each cutlet. The gravy must be made hot, and poured round them, Time to fry the cutlets, ten or twelve minutes. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. each when in full season. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Pheasant, Fillets of.—Take a well-hung young pheasant. Pluck, draw, and singe it, and then braise the fillets. To do this, cut off the flesh from the breast and wihg in one slice from each side; this will give two large fillets; and to get three fillets of uniform size, flatten the minion or smaller fillets, which consist of the strips of flesh which lie under the wings, with the flesh of the merry- thought, and any little pieces that can be lifted off. Dip the fillets into beaten egg, and then into rather highly-seasoned bread-crumbs. thin slices of bread of the samé size as the fillets in hot fat, until they are lightly browned ; drain and dry them. Fry the fillets also, and when they are equally and brightly’ browned, serve upon the pieces of toast on a hot dish, with a good gravy poured round them. To make the gravy, stew the bones and trim- mings of the pheasant in half a pint of water, with an inch or two of lemon-rind, a pinch of salt, and half a dozen peppercorns. When they have simmered for half an hour or more, strain the gravy, skim carefully, and thicken with a tea-spoonful of brown thickening, Add a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, or a tea-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, if either are liked; make the sauce hot, and serve. Time, three-quarters of an hour to stew the sauce, ten or twelve minutes to fry the fillets. Probable cost of pheasants, 3s. each when in full season. Pheasant, Flavour of.— The pheasant is sometimes domesticated for the table, but the flavour of the bird is decidedly best when in a natural wild state. M. Ude says, “It is not often that pheasants are met with possessing that exquisite taste which is acquired only by long | keeping, as the damp of this climate prevents their being kept so long as they are in. other countries. .,.The hens in general are most deli- cate. The cocks show their age by their spurs. They are only fit tobe eaten when ‘the. blood begins to run from the bill, which is commonly six days or a week after they have been killed. ‘The flesh of the pheasant. is white, tender, and has a good flavour, if you keep it long enough ; ¥ not, it has mo more than a common hen or owl.” | cost, 6s. Pheasant, Forcemeat for (see Force- meat for Pheasant). Pheasant, Hashed.—Cut the remains of one or two cold roast pheasants into neat joints, put them into a cool place, and cover them over until they are wanted. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a stewpan, mix half an ounce of flour smoothly with it, and stir the mixture quickly over a gentle fire, until it is lightly coloured. Pour over it half a pint of stock or water, and add a glass of claret, a finely-minced onion, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer the sauce gently by the side of the fire until it is thick enough to coat the spoon, then strain it, and put in the pieces of pheasant. Let these simmer for a minute or two until they are quite hot, but the sauce must not boil after the game is added. Serve the pheasant on a hot dish, with the hot gravy poured over it. Time, one hour and a half. "Pbk cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine and cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Pheasant, Mock.—When only one pheasant can be obtained, a fine young fowl which has been kept three or four days may be ‘trussed and roasted with it. Few people will discover that the two birds served on the same dish are not of the same species. Pheasant Pie.—Take six ounces of the cushion of veal, free it carefully from skin and gristle, and mince it finely. Mix with it six ounces of fat oacon also finely minced, six ounces .of finely-grated bread-crumbs, three ounces of chopped beef suet, and one ounce of grated lean ham. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, season rather highly with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and bind the forcemeat together with yolk of egg. The addition of three ‘or four chopped mushrooms will be an improvement. Pluck and clean a well-hung pheasant. Cut off its head, and divide it in two lengthwise. Bone the bird carefully, and fry the halves in hot fat until they are lightly browned. Drain them well, and put about half the forcemeat into them, then put them close together in their original position. Line a pie-mould, or form a case, according to the diréctions already given (see Paste for Raised Pies). Lay slices of fat bacon at the bottom, and spread half of the remaining forcemeat on them. Put in the pheasant, the remainder of the forcemeat, and a slice of fat bacon over all. Lay on the lid, make a hole in the centre, and bake ina brisk oven. If there is any danger of the pie burning, lay a paper upon it. In order to ascertain when it is done enough, push a trussing-needle through the hole in the centre; if it penctrates easily, the pie is sufficiently cooked. ‘This pie, if preferred, may be baked in a dish, and the pheasant may be jointed before it is put in. Half an hour after it is taken out of the oven pour into it, through the hole in the centre, a quarter of a pint of strong gravy made from the liver. Time to bake, two hours, or more. Probable Sufficient for six or eight persons. Pheasant, Potted.—Pluck, draw, and singe a well-hung pheasant. Cut off its head, PHE ( 544) PHE ‘ and season it inside and out with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Put it into a dish breast downwards, and pour over it five or six ounces of dissolved butter. Cover the pan with a coarse paste made of flour and water, and bake in a moderate oven. When the bird is suffi- ciently baked, take it from the oven, and drain the butter from it. Let it get cold, then put it into a pot breast downwards, and cover with clarified butter. When the butter is set, tie a double fold of paper over it, and store in a cool place. If preferred, the bird can be divided into joints after it is baked, and packed closely into the pan. The advantage of this plan will be that much less butter will be required to cover it than if the bird were potted whole. Time to bake, about one hour. Probable cost of the pheasants, 3s. each when in full season. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pheasant, Potted (another way).—Pick the meat from a cold roast pheasant, mince it finely, and pound in a mortar to a smooth paste ; put the bones into a stewpan with a quart of Strong stock, two ounces of lean ham, three shallots, two table-spoonfuls of sherry, two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a dozen peppercorns. Boil this down quickly until it is reduced toa glaze (see Glaze), then strain through a fine hair sieve, and mix with the meat. Add five or six ounces of clarified butter, and a little salt, and cayenne. Pound these ingredients together, and press the mixture into small potting-jars. Pour over them clarified butter to the thickness of half an inch, and store in a cool,dry place. Probable cost, 4s., with pheasants at 3s. each. Pheasant, Roast. — Pluck, draw, and singe a brace of pheasants. Wipe them with a dry cloth, truss them firmly, and either lard them or tie round the breasts a slice of fat bacon. Flour them well, put them before a clear fire, and baste liberally. When they are done enough, remove the bacon, serve the birds on a hot dish, and garnish with watercresses. Send good brown gravy and bread sauce to table with them. If the fashion is liked, half a dozen of the best of the tail- feathers may be stuck into the bird when it is dished. Time, three-quarters of an hour to roast a good-sized pheasant. The drumsticks are excellent when devilled. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pheasant, Roast, To Carve.—Fix the fork in the centre of the breast, and cut slices ROAST PHEASANT, off evenly on either side. Should there be more guests to partake of the roast pheasant than these slices will satisfy, disengage the legs and wings in the same manner as is done when carving boiled fowl. In taking off the wings, be careful not to cut too near the neck; if you do, you will hit upon the neck-bone, from which the wing must be separated. Cut off the merry- thought by passing the knife under it towards the neck. Cut the other parts as in a fowl. The breast, wings, and merry-thought of a pheasant are the most highly prized; but the leg has a supericr flavour. Pheasant, Salmi of.—Roast a well-hung pheasant until it is a little more than half- dressed, then take it from the fire, and when it is almost cold, cut it into neat joints, and carefully remove the skin and fat. Put the meat aside until wanted, and place the bones and trimmings in a saucepan with an ounce of fresh butter, a sprig of thyme, and a bay- leaf, and stir these ingredients over a slow fire until they are lightly browned ; then pour over them half a pint of good brown sauce, and a glassful of sherry. Let them simmer gently for a quarter of an hour; strain the gravy, skim it carefully, add a pinch of cayenne, and’ the juice of half a lemon, and put it back into the saucepan with the pieces of game. Let them heat very gradually, and on no account allow them to boil. Pile them on a hot dish, pour the hot sauce over them, and garnish with fried sippets. If there is no brown sauce at hand, it may be prepared as follows :—Mince finely a quarter of a pound of the lean of an unboiled ham, and put it into a saucepan, with two ounces of fresh butter, a shallot, a large scraped carrot, two or three mushrooms (if at hand), a blade of mace, a small sprig of thyme, a handful of parsley, two cloves, and half a dozen peppercorns. Stir these over a slow fire until they are brightly browned ; then dredge a table- spoonful of flour over them, and let it colour also. Pour in gradually three-quarters of a pint of water, and a glassful of sherry, and add a little salt, and the bones and trimmings of the pheasant; let the sauce boil up, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let it keep simmering for an hour and a half. Strain the gravy, and skim carefully. Put it back into the saucepan with the joints of meat, a lump of sugar, and a little lemon-juice, or Seville orange-juice; heat slowly, and serve as above. Time, twenty to thirty minutes to roast the pheasant, a quarter of an hour in the first instance, or an hour and a half in the second, to simmer the sauce. Probable cost, 1s., exclusive of the pheasant. Sufficient for five or six persons. Pheasant, Sea (see Pintail or Sea Pheasant). Pheasant Soup.— Flour a well-hung pheasant rather thickly, put it down to a brisk fire, and roast it for a quarter of an hour, basting it plentifully all the time. Take it from the fire, and let it get nearly cold; then take off the flesh from the breast and the upper part of the wings, skin it, and put it aside. Cut up the rest of the bird, and bruise the bones. Scrape a small carrot finely, put it into a stewpan with an ounce of butter, an ounce of the PHE ( 545 ) PIC lean of an unboiled ham finely minced, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a handful of parsley, half a blade of mace, three or four cloves, half dozen peppercorns, a shallot, and. three or four of the outer sticks of a head :of celery. Stir these ingredients over a gentle fire until they uve brightly browned, put ‘in the flesh and the bruised body of the bird, pour over them a quart of veal or beef stock, and after boiling stew gently for half an hour, and be careful to remove the scum as it rises. Strain the soup, and rub the meat through a tamis or sieve,’ Mix the purée with the soup, add to it a small pinch of cayenne, a little salt, a glassful of sherry, and the fillets of the pheasant cut into thick slices; stir over the fire until it is quite hot, and serve. Time, an hour and a half or more. Probable cost, 5s. This soup may be made with the remains of dressed pheasant. Pheasant Soup (another way).—Roast a well-hung pheasant according to the directions given in the last recipe. Take off the flesh from the breast and wings, skin it, and lay it aside. Divide the rest of the bird into joints, put it into a stewpan, pour over it a quart of unseasoned beef stock, let it boil, and simmer vently for three hours. Strain the soup, and carefully rub the meat through a tamis or sieve. Pound the flesh of the breast in a mortar until it is reduced to a smooth paste, nix with it an ounce of fresh butter, a heaped table-spoonful of finely-grated bread- « Bucksnorn’ Puanratn, on Star‘ or THE Earru (Plantago coronopus).—A ‘hardy annual, a native of Britain, met with in sandy soils... It used to be cultivated as a salad herb, and em- ployed like the common cress; now, however, it is. neglectéd, probably on'account of its rank and disagreeable smell. 4 Danvetion (Leontodon Taraxacum).—A na- tive of Britain, a hardy perennial, well known to eyery one, and regarded by gardeners .as a troublesome weed. “It may be used as salad, and the root is much employed by, the poor in some continental districts as a substitute for coffee. The young roots and also the blanched leaves, which ‘considerably resemble those of endive, are sometimes eaten in France with thin slices of bréad and biitter. re Ox-ryz Darsy (Chrysanthemum leutanthe- awn). — A perennial plant common in’ dry pastures, ¢ 0 ‘Sata ‘Burner (Poierium Sanguisorbay.—The ie plant? “The | leavb8"of' the ‘salad Durhet bniéll and taste just like’ eueuntber. "20 20 8 ni be ae Sua Brvpwe’ ( Oondiolvulus soldanclla) .—This plant ‘is ‘plentiful”6n' the gea-coasts, wheré the natives gather the tender stalks and pickle them. ‘Stonecrop, p& Onvine (Sedum telephitim).— The -ledves'‘of the stonecrop are eaten in salads like those of purslane, to which the French hold it to be equdl. °° += - Sweer Cickry (Seandix odorata).—Tho leaves of this -plant-used to be employed like those of the chervil. ‘ The greéi seeds ground small and used with lettuce and other cold salads impart to them a warm agreeable taste. : : Win Pasi ipeieng A SUBSTITUTE FOR EA. : ee SrEEDWELL (Veronica spicata).—This is occa~ sionally éniployed as’a substitute for tea : ‘it is said to have an astringent taste like green tea. ) Spring Grass (Anthoxanthum odoratuin),—A decoction of this highly odoriferous grass is said strongly to, resemble tea. wihtegt atte fad " Black-currant leaves also ‘furnish a very good ‘substitute for green tea, and'those of Saxifraga crassifolia ‘aré’ reported to be used as tea in Siberia.. Betonica officinalis is held by some to have’ the taste and all the good, qualities of foreign tea without the bad ones. = i {Miscpiaanzous Korte Witp Prants. Burrerwortt (Pinguicula vulgaris).—In Lap- land and, the north of Sweden the inhabitants ‘pour milk' warm from thé ‘cow’ on ‘this plant, thus giving it the consistency of cream. They then strain it immediately,’ and lay it:aside for two: or, ‘three. days till it acquires a degree of acidity. <‘This.milk they are extremely, fond of; and,once made they need: not repeat' the useof, the leaves, as above, for-a spoonful or less of. it will coagulate another quantity of warm milk, and make it like the first,'and so on-as often as.they; please to renew their food. - ., Cow-parsnip ‘(Heracleum sphondylium).—In Kamschatka,; about: the beginning of July, the natives collect the footstalks of the radical leaves of this plant, peel off thei rind, and dry them separately in the sun. They then fasten them in bundles, and. lay them up carefully in the shade.., Shortly afterwards these’ dried stalks are . covered .over with.a yellow’ saccharine efflorescence tasting like liquorice, and in this state they are eaten asa delicacy. The Russians not only eat the stalks thus prepared, but manage to get a very intoxicating spirit from them. ae os : : Haru (Erica vulgarisy.—The young tops of the heath are said to have been once used aloné to brew a kind of ale, and even now the inhabi- tants of some of the Scottish isles manufacture a very potable liquor by mixing two-thirds of the tops of the heath with one of malt. : ‘Sunstrtutzs ror Caprrs.— Amongst these are the flower-buds of the marsh marigold, the young seed-pods of the common radish, and the unripe seeds of the garden nasturtium. * : Potsonous PLANTS TO BE AVOIDED iN SEARCHING : ror Eprnue Wiip Pants. ‘The principal poisonous plants, natives, or growing in Britain,” says Loudon, “are the following: the whole for obvious reasons ought to be known at'sight by every gardener :— ade PLO ( 584 ) PLO “ Bitter poisons, for which acids, astringents, wine, spirits, and spices, are useful correctives :— Chelidonium majus, Cicuta virosa, Colchicum autumnale, Cinanthe crocata, Cerasus Lauro- cerasus. The berries of the last-named are used for pies and puddings in the neighbour- hood of Moor Park, Hertfordshire, but the leaves are deleterious. “‘Acrid poisons, which should be counteracted by powerful astringents, as bark, and after- wards the stomach restored by soft mucilaginous matters, as milk, fat broth, &c.:—Aconitum Napellus and Lycoctonum, Acta spicata, Rhus Toxicodendron. “Stupefying poisons, to be counteracted by vegetable acids and emetics:—Atthusa Cyna- pium, Atropa Belladonna, Datura Stramonium, ‘Hyoscyamus niger, Solanum Dulcamara and ni- grum, Lactuca virosa, Apium graveolens. The two last-named plants, it is well known, afford, in a cultivated state, lettuce and celery, but wild, in hedges and ditches, they are poisonous. “Feetid poisons, to be attacked by ether, wine, or acids :—Conium maculatum, Digitalis purpurea, Helleborus fostidus, Juniperus Sabina, Scrophularia aquatica. “Drastic poisons, to be corrected by acids, alkalies, and astringents:—Asclepias syriaca, Bryonia dioica, Euphorbia Lathyris and amyg- daldides, Mercurialis perennis and annua, Peri- ploca grzeca, Veratrum album.’’ Plomb, Giuteau de (se Gateau de Plomb). Plombiére’s Ice.—Blanch and peel six ounces of Jordan almonds and ten bitter ones. Dry them in a soft cloth, and pound to 2 smooth paste with a little orange-flower water. Stir this paste into a pint and a half of boiling milk, then press the liquid through a j elly-bag. Mix ten yolks of eggs well beaten with the milk, and stir the custard over a moderate fire until it begins to thicken. Take it off the fire, stir two or three minutes longer, and strain it once more through a tamis. When cold freeze it, and when it is ready for serving mould three rings of the iced cream, diminishing in size as they go up. Fill the centre with apricot jam, and serve. Time, about ten minutes to boil the custard. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Plover.—Though several kinds of plover are known to naturalists, two species only are recognised in cookery—the golden plover and the grey plover. The golden plover is the commoner, and the grey plover the larger of the two, though both are smaller than a woodcock. They are pleasantly-flavoured birds, and are best when roasted like woodcock without being drawn. In favourable weather they will keep good some time, and are better for being kept. They are at their best from September to January. The eggs of the plover are highly esteemed. Plover, Golden, Roasted.—Truas like woodcock, and roast before a brisk fire. Puta slice of the toasted crumb of bread about half an inch thick under the birds, and baste con- stantly with butter until sufficiently cooked. Serve the plovers on the toast, which should be | well saturated with the basting and the trail. Pour some good gravy over them in the dish (see Gravy for Game). Time, about a quarter of an hour to roast. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. per brace. Sufficient, a brace for two persons. THE GOLDEN PLOVER. Plovers, Choosing of.— Choose those birds which feel hard at the vent, which shows they are fat. In other respects plovers should be selected by the same marks as other fowls. When stale, the feet: are dry. Plovers will keep a long time. In consequence of a pecu- liarity in the flavour of the plover, the bird is not universally liked; by some, however, it is a favourite. The grey plover is superior, as game, to the green. _ Plovers’ Eggs.—Plovers’ eggs are es- teemed a great delicacy. They are usually boiled hard, and sent to table either hot or cold. If hot they should be placed on a napkin; if cold in a moss-lined basket. They are frequently shelled, and served with good white sauce or brown gravy poured over them; or used asa garnish for salads. Half a dozen plovers’ eggs neatly arranged in a moss basket form a very pretty addition to the breakfast-table. One of the little baskets in which fruit is sold by the greengrocers may be utilised for the purpose. It should have a twist of wire fastened into it for a handle, then be brushed over with gum, and both handle and basket entirely covered with green. If no other moss is at hand, packets may be bought at the greengrocer’s for a trifling sum. Time to boil the eggs, ten minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient —allow one or two for each person. Plovers’ Eggs (sce also Eggs, Plovers’). Plovers Fried with English Truffles. —Pluck four plovers, and truss them as if for roasting. Lay them breast downwards in a stewpan, with four ounces of fresh butter and seven or eight raw truffles which have been washed perfectly clean, wiped, pared very thin, and cut into slices about the size of a penny. Add two cloves, a bay-leaf, and a little salt and pepper. Stir the whole gently over a sharp fire for ten minutes, then pour in a pint of stock which has been smoothly mixed with a dessert- PLO ( 585 ) PLU spoonful of flour, and a glass of-sherry. Sim- mer gently by the side of the fire for twenty minutes, and skim the liquid carefully. Place the birds on a hot dish. Boil the sauce quickly till it is thick and smooth, flavour with the strained juice of a lemon, add a small lump of sugar and half a tea-spoonful of browning, and pour it hot over the birds; serve imme- diately. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, plovers, 2s. 6d. per brace. Sufficient for five or six people. Plovers, Pie of.—Pluck, draw, and skin three plovers, and truss them as for roasting. Lay half a pound of rump steak cut into convenient-sized pieces at-the bottom of 4 moderate-sized pie-dish, and season these-rather highly with pepper and salt. Lay the birds upon them, and beside each bird place the yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Clean a dozen moderate-sized mushrooms, cut the stalks off, and lay them at the top of the pie. Pour in half a pint of good brown gravy. Line the edges of the dish with puff-paste, cover it with the same, ornament prettily; make a hole in the top, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake the pie, about an hour and a half. Sufficient for five or six persons. Plovers, Roasted.— Pluck a brace: of plovers without drawing them, and wipe them well outside with a damp cloth. Truss them with the legs close to the body, and the feet pressing upon the thighs ; bring the head round under the wing. Put them down toaclear fire. Lay in the pan slices of toast, one slice for each bird, first moistening it in good gravy, and baste the plovers liberally. A few minutes before they are done dredge a little flour over them, and let them be nicely frothed. Spread the trail which has dropped from the birds evenly upon the toast, and serve the birds upon it. A little melted butter may be sent to table in a tureen. Time to roast the birds, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, plovers, 28. 6d. a brace. Sufficient for two persons. Plovers, Stewed.—Pluck and draw a brace of plovers. Mince the trail, and mix with it two ounces of finely-shred beef suet, four roasted chestnuts pounded, the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and two artichoke bottoms boiled and minced; mix these ingredients thoroughly, and season rather highly with pepper and galt. Fill the birds with the force- meat, and truss them as if for roasting. Put them side by side in a stewpan just large enough to hold them, pour over them three- quarters of a pint of good brown.gravy, and add a glass of port or claret, a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, three or four mushrooms, or, failing this, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a little pepper and salt if required. Cover the saucepan closely, and stew gently for half an hour. Take up the birds, and put them in a hot dish. Strain the gravy, and thicken it with a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening. Té this is not at hand, a little may be made by mixing equal proportions of flour and butter, and stirring the paste quickly over a gentle fire for three minutes, then putting it into the sauce, and boiling it until smooth. Pour the | gravy round the birds, and garnish the dish with plovers’ eggs boiled hard, shelled, cut into quarters, and placed round it. Time to stew, half an hour. Probable cost, plovers, 2s. 6d. per brace. Sufficient for two or three persons. Plum.—The plum is an agreeable and refreshing though not very wholesome fruit. There are several varieties, and these may be cooked in a great many ways, all of which are generally acceptable. This fruit, if eaten when unripe or unsound, is almost sure to bring on Saran It is not so objectionable when cooked. Plum and Pear Jam without Sugar. —Take half a peck of ripe pears, and another of ripé plums. Peel and stone them. Poura cupful of good cider into a preserving-pan with the fruit, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered cloves. Let the mixture boil gently, with in- cessant stirring, until it is thick and smooth, and be very careful that it does not burn to the bottom of the pan. Pour it into jars, cover with brandied paper and bladder, and store in a cool dry place. Time, about two hours. Plum Beverage, French, for In- valids,—Take half a dozen fine French plums: Put them into a stewpan with a pint of boiling water, and let them simmer gently for twenty minutes. Pour them into a bowl. When cold take out the plums (which may be put aside for eating), sweeten the liquid according to taste, stir into it a table-spoonful of port, and it is ready for use. Probable cost, 6d. Suf- ficient for one person. Plum Buds, to Pickle.—Throw the buds into plenty of hot salt and water, and let them simmer gently until they are soft. Strain the liquid from them, and let them get quite cold. Boil as much white-wine vinegar as will cover them, and flavour according to taste with mace and white pepper. Pour the liquid over the buds, and let them lie in it eight or nine days. Afterwards boil them in the vinegar until they turn green. Pour them into bottles, and when cold cover closely, and store for use. Probable cost uncertain, plum buds being seldom offered for sale. Plum Buns made with Yeast.—Mix half a tea-spoonful of salt with three pounds of best flour. Rub into this three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter or good beef drip- ping. Put the mixture into a bowl, and make a hole in the centre. Moisten an ounce of German yeast smoothly and gradually with three-quarters of a pint of lukewarm water. If preferred, a quarter of a pint of good brewer's yeast may be substituted for the German yeast. Put the yeast into the hollow, and mix with it a little of the flour till it is like thin batter, then put it on the hearth for about an hour to sponge. Whisk two fresh eggs, and mix with them twelve ounces of moist sugar. Stir them into the yeast, and knead the dough thoroughly with a pint of warm milk, Cover with a cloth, and let the dough stand until it is ‘lightly risen. It will require about an hour and ahalf. Add six ounces of well-washed and. dried currants, mould the dough into buna x PLU { 586 ) PE about the sizé of a ‘large eg#,’place’them in rows upon a buttered baking-tin, with’ fully three inches between them, and’ set them’ before the fire for about ten minutes to rise.’ Bake in a brisk oven for’ about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d..; Sufficient for about, three dozen buns, , . roe ahs . ob Plum Buns without Yeast, Plain.— Mix thoroughly a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda with a tea-spoonful of tartaric'acid. Rub this and half'a tea-spoonful of salt into two pounds of flour. Work in a ‘quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and add a quarter of a pound of moist sugax, a quarter,of‘a pound of washed: Plums in Vinegar.—Take three pounds of mussél plums, sound and ripe, and rub them with a soft cloth. Boil a pound of loaf sugar . ina pint and a half of vinegar, with’ a dozen cloves, and a quarter of an ounce Of : stick cin- namon. Put in the plums, a few at 4 time, and ‘let them simmer gently. As the skins crack, lift them carefully out, and put them on dishes -to cool. When they are cold' lay them in a deep jar; ‘and shake them to make them lie: closely together. They ought not to be at all, soft. Boil the vinegar and sugar.a few minutes longer, then pour it out, and when it is cold gtrain it over the plums, which it ougbt to cover ‘entirely. . Leave the jar in a cool place for a iweek. At the end of that time strain, off the: syrup.and boil it; If the plums are 1 ar pour the syrup hot over them, if soft, let.it; get cold PLU first. Cover the jars in the usual way, and store in a cool place. If liked, half a pint of claret may be put with each pint of vinegar. These plums are excellent served with Roast Mutton. Plums, Magnum Bonum (see Magnum Bonums). PLUMS. 1. Yellow Magnum Bonum. 2. Golden Drop. 3. Greengage. Plums, Magnum SBonum, Pre- served,.—Magnum bonumand other fine plums may be boiled into a jam in the usual way, or preserved whole like apricots, or as follows :— Take fine ripe, sound fruit. Pare them, and in order to do this more easily throw them into boiling water for a minute. If they are not fully ripe, they will need to simmer gently for two or three minutes. Take a pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. Dissolve in a little water, skim carefully, and boil until it is almost candy height. Throw in the plums, and let them boil gently for.a quarter of an hour. Lift them out carefully, strain the syrup over them, and let them lie for two days. Boil them again until they look quite clear, put them into jars, cover with the syrup, tie the jars up, and store in a cool, dry place. Time, three days. Boil the plums the last time about ten minutes. Plums, Orange, To Preserve (sce Orange Plums). Plums, Orleans, To Bottle for Win- ter Use (see Orleans Plums, to Bottle for Winter Use). Plums Pickled like Olives. — Take some hard green plums which have been gathered before the stone was formed. Boil as |: much vinegar as will entirely cover them with a table-spoonful of salt and half an ounce of mustard-seed to each pint of the liquid. Pour it hot over the fruit. Let it stand until the next day, then drain it off, boil again, and repeat the performance. When the plums are quite cold, put them into bottles, cover with vinegar, tie up securely, and store in a cool, place. Plums Pickled like Olives (another way).—Boil together some dill and fennel-seed ( 592 ) PLU in a mixture of white-wine vinegar and water. Put the plums into this while hot,’ let them simmer a little, set them on one side to cool, and then preserve in pots. . Plums, Preserved Dry. -—Divide the plums, take out the stones, and put them into a syrup made with half the weight of the fruit in sugar boiled with as much water as will dissolve it. Keep the plums covered with the syrup, and let them simmer very gently until they are tender without losing their shape. Lift the pan off the fire, and let the fruit stand in the syrup until the next day. Strain the syrup, boil it up with more sugar, so that there may be an equal weight of sugar and fruit, and let it boil almost to candy. Pour it out, and let it get cold. Put it back into the pan with the fruit. Let it simmer gently for a few minutes until the plums are quite soft. Let them remain in the syrup for three days, drain them, and spread them singly on dishes to dry. Time, five days. Or, put the plums whole into a syrup made with their weight in sugar and as much water as will dissolve the sugar. Let them boil gently for about twenty minutes, then let them remain in the syrup until the juice flows freely, and boil them a second time. Lift out the plums carefully, one by one, put them into deep jars, and pour the syrup over them. Leave them until the next day, drain them, and spread them singly on dishes to dry. Or, take plums which are fully grown but not ripe; prick them, put them into a pan of cold water, and let them remain until it is on the point of boiling. Let them cool, and drain them in a sieve. Takeas many pounds of sugar as there are of fruit, and boil it to a strong syrup with as much water as will dissolve it. Put the plums in, and boil them gently for twenty minutes. The next day boil them again until the sugar is ready to candy. Pour the plums into deep jars, and let them stand all night in a cool oven. Let them get cold, then lift them out, and spread them singly on dishes to Plums, Preserved, for Making Pies.—Divide the plums, and take out the stones. Put them into a deep jar, place this in a saucepan of boiling water, and let them boil gently until the juice flows freely. Then with each pound of the fruit put an ounce of crushed loaf sugar. When the sugar is dissolved by the hot juice, pour the whole into wide-mouthed glass bottles. Cover the tops closely, and store in acool place. Plums preserved in this way bie keep for a short time only. Time, about an hour. Plums, Quiddamy of.—Take a pound of plums and remove‘the stones. Boil the fruit, with an equal quantity of loaf sugar, ina quart of plum-juice; keep boiling till the contents of the pan are of the consistency of jelly; then pour into pots, and cover in the usual way. Plums, Varieties of.—There are said to be nearly 300 varieties of plums. The dam- son or Damascene plum takes its name from Damascus, where it grows in‘great quantities, and from whence it was introduced into Italy about 114 3.c. The Orleans plum is from PLU ( 593 ) PLU France. The greengage is so called after the Gage family, who first brought it to this coun- try from the monastery of the Chartreuse at Paris, where it went under the name of Reine Claude. The magnum bonum is our largest plum, and in great request for preserves and for culinary purposes. The wild sloe is thought by some to be the parent of the plum; the ac- climated kinds, however, came from the East. The cultivation of the plum was probably at- tended to very early in England, as Gerard tells us he had in his garden in Holborn, in 1597, a great variety of sorts. We extract the following list of dessert plums, arranged in the order of their ripening, from a “ Descriptive Catalogue of Plums cultivated in Britain,” given some years ago by a well-known bo- tanical authority :— Name, Size. Colour. Ripens. Jaune hative Medium Yellow Hind July. Precoce de Tours Medium Purple Beg. Aug. Morocco Medium Purple Beg. Aug. Royal hative Medium Purple Beg. m. Tae Nectarine Large Purple roe Aug. Drap d’or Small Yel. Green Mid. Aug. Fotheringham Medium Purple Mid, Aug. Greengage Medium Yel. Green Mid. e. Aug. Blue Perdrigon Medium Purple End Aug. White Perdrigon Medium Pale Yellow End Aug. Virgin Medium Purple Beg. Sept. ‘Wh. Impératrice Medium Pale Yellow Beg. m. Sep. Diaprée Rouge Large Red. Violet Beg. m. Sep. Washington Large Yellow Sept. D’A; Medium Purple End Sept. Reine Claude Medium Purple Sept. Violette Jefferson Large Orange Red Sept.' Large Gr. Drying Large Green. Yel. Mid. e. Sept. Coe’sGolden Drop Large ellow Sept., Oct. Blue Impératrice Large Purple Oct. Ickworth ditto | Medium Purple Oct. Coe’s fine latered Medium Purple Oct. The following is a list of kitchen plums, from the same source, arranged in the order of their ripening :— Name. Size. Colour, Ripens. Early Orleans Medium le Beg. m. Aug. Gisborne’s Medium Yellow Mid. Aug: _ Mirabelle Small Pale Yellow Mid. Aug. | Orleans Medium Purple Mid. e. Aug. Shropsh. Damson Small Purple Mid. Sept. Wine Sour Bel. Md, Purple Mid. Sept. Red Magnum Large Purpsh.Red Sept. Bonum White. Magnum Large Yellow Sept. Bonum 2 St. Catherine Medium Yellow Mid. e. Sept. In connection with the first of the above lists, it is to be remarked that the greengage, perd- rigons, and more especially Coe’s golden drop, although classed as dessert fruit, are also proper | for preserving. Plums, Wholesomeness of.—“Plums,” remarks Professor Martyn, “ when sufficiently ripe, and taken in moderate quantity, are not unwholesome; but in an immature state they are more liable to produce colicky pains, diar- rhoea, or cholera, than any other fruit of this class. Considered: medicinally, they are emol- lient, cooling, and laxative, especially prunes, and what are called in England French plums (brignoles), which are peculiarly useful in costive habits.” : Plumbe’s (H. M.) Arrowroot. This arrowroot was first introduced into this country by John Williams, the well-known missionary to the South Sea Islands. It is very suitable for 38—N.z. breakfast, luncheon, dinner, supper, &c.,-and can be made into tempting puddings, cus- tards, jellies, and such like articles, as may be seen from the following recipes. For children’s food it is excellent. ; Plumbe’s Arrowroot Biscuits.—Rub together three-quarters of a pound of sugar and the same weight of butter until they rise; beat three eggs well mixed with these ingredients, then stir in four table-spoonfuls of arrowroot and two cups of sifted flour. Roll the mixture out, cut the biscuits with a pastry cutter, place them in buttered tins, and bake in a slow oven. Probable cost, Plumbe’s arrowroot, 1s. 6d. per pound. Plumbe’s Arrowroot Blanc-Mange. —Take one quart of milk, and mix with it four ounces, or four table-spoonfuls, of arrowroot, flavour to taste, and- boil the whole for four minutes, stirring all the time. Allow the blanc- mange to cool in a mould,.and send milk and jelly, or milk and sugar, to table with it. Probable cost, Plumbe’s arrowroot, 1s. 6d. per pound. Plumbe’s Arrowroot Breakfast- Cakes.—Mix together two cupfuls of arrow- root and half a cupful of flour, add a table- spoonful of salt butter, one egg, and as much milk or water as will bring the whole to the consistency of paste. oll out the paste, cut it with a breakfast-cup, and put the cakes in a baking-iron. They will be baked enough in a few minutes. Split and butter them, and send them to table hot. Probable cost, Plumbe’s arrowroot, 1s. 6d. per pound. Plumbe’s Arrowroot Cream.—Take one ounce of arrowroot, one quart of milk, and three ounces of lump sugar. Mix the arrowroot with a little cold milk and the yolk of an egg, stirring it well and breaking the lumps. ~ Boil the milk with the peel of a Jemon and a little cinnamon, sweetening it with the sugar; pour it boiling hot over the arrowroot, stir well till cold, pour into glasses, and serve. Plumbe’s Arrowroot Custard. — Take one quart of milk, mix with it two ounces of arrowroot, one or two eggs well beaten, and add a little butter and four table-spoonfuls of sugar. Flavour to taste. Boil the custard four minutes, pour it into a pie-dish, and brown before the fire. This is an exquisite delicacy. Plumbe’s Arrowroot Custard Pud- ding.—Beat up two or three eggs with a small dessert-spoonful of arrowroot; sweeten with loaf-sugar, and add seven drops of essence of almonds. Pour on this mixture a pint of boil- ing milk—take care that the milk really boils —and bake immediately for half an hour in a quick oven. Plumbe’s Arrowroot Gruel.—Take a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot, and mix with it a wine-glassful of cold water. Pour on this » pint of boiling water; sweeten with moist sugar, flavour with a little nutmeg, let the el simmer on the fire for five minutes, and then add a table-spoonful of brandy. Plumbe’s Arrowroot Jelly (Invauip Cooxrry).—This is a nutritious and restoring PLU. ( 594) POE jelly for invalids. Mix in a tumbler a piled tea-spoonful of arrowroot with a little cold water; pour upon it sufficient boiling water to form a clear jelly, stirring well whilst the water is being poured on it; last-of all add a glassful of-sherry. ae Plumbe’s Arrowroot Omelet.—Beat up two eggs, and mix’ with them one table- spoonful of arrowroot and a'tea-cupful of milk ; add a little pepper and salt, and sugar, if pre- ferred; throw 'the whole’ into a flat saucepan, previously well heated, and covered with melted butter: ‘Keep the saucepan in motion over the fire, then'turn the omelet several times; roll it up, and keep it in motion till it is slightly browned. -' Probable cost, Plumbe’s arrowroot, 1s. 6d. per pound. La Plumbe’s Arrowroot. Pudding, Baked.—Take about four table-spoonfuls of arrowroot, or three and 4 half ounces, and add: to it one quart of milk. Boil for four minutes, stirring briskly. Allow the pudding to cool, | and then thoroughly mix' into it two eggs well beaten, with three table-spoonfuls of sugar. Flavour to taste, and bakefér half an hour in an oven, or brown the pudding before the fire. Probable cost, Plumbe’s arrowroot, Is: 6d. per pound. = RE Plumbe’s Arrowroot Sponge Cake. —Take a quarter of a pound of arrowroot, a quarter of a pound of butter, and two tea, spoonfuls of baking-powder, and mix these in- gredients very well together.. Take three eggs, and beat the yolks and whites separately for fifteen minutes, then add to them a quarter of a pound of bruised white sugar; mix all well together, flavour to taste, beat for fifteen minutes, put the cake into a buttered tin papered all round two inches deeper than. the tin, and bake in a quick oven for an hour. Probable cost, Plumbe’s arrowroot, 1s. 6d. per pound. | Plumbe’s Arrowroot Thickening for Soups, &c.—To thicken soups take one ounce ‘of arrowroot, and very gradually add sufficient liquid to make it of the consistency of batter; that it may be smooth, moisten spar- ingly at first, and beat with the back'of a spoon till every lump has disappeared. Boil the soup quickly whilst the thickening is being stirred into it, and let it simmer for ten minutes after- wards. One ounce of arrowroot is sufficient for one quart of soup. To thicken gravies, sauces, and stews, the arrowroot should be used in the same way as in thickening soups, but scarcely so much should be employed. Probable cost, Plumbe’s arrowroot, 1s. 6d. per pound. Podovies, or Beef Patties.— Take half a dozen slices of under-dressed roast beef, with a small portion of fat, shred it finely, and season it with pepper, salt, and a little chopped onion or shallot. Roll out a quarter of a pound of puff-paste very thin.‘ Lay spoonfuls of the mince upon it, an inch apart, and moisten the pastry round the, meat with .a little water. Cover with a piece of pastry. Press together the portion round each little ball of mince, and stamp rounds out ‘with a cutter. Pinch the edges, and fry the patties in hot ‘fat until they are brightly coloured. Drain them on blotting- paper, and serve piled high on a dish. Time to fry, ten minutes. Sufficient; a dozen for two or three persons. ue Podovies, or Beef Patties (another way).—Mince very finely two or three slices of under-dressed cold roast beef. Mix with the meat a third of its bulk in fat, and season with a little pepper and salt, and a finely-minced shallot, and, if the flavour is liked, an anchovy cut into small pieces. .Prépare the patties ac- cording to the directions given in the preceding recipe, fill them with a tea-spoonful of the mince, and bake ina brisk oven. Serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Time, ten’ to fifteen minutes to bake. Probable cost, 2d. éach. Sut- ficient, a dozen fora dish, Poéle.—Poéle is a kind of rich gravy which is used, in expensive cookery to boil various meats in instead of water. It is especially suited, for fowls, turkeys, sweetbreads, and similar meats which are in themselves ‘a little insipid.. The same poéle.may be used. three or four times, and in favourable weather will keep several days. For ordinary domestic use it is a quite unnecessary expense. To make it, proceed’ as follows:—Take a pound of: fat bacon and a pound of lean ham, two pounds of veal, ‘two carrots, and two onions, all cut up into dice. Put them into. a stewpan with a pound of fresh butter, and stir constantly until the bacon is half melted. Add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two bruised bay- leaves, three or four cloves, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and three or four young onions. Pour in three pints of boiling water, cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently for an hour and a half or two hours. Strain through a sieve, and press the meat and vegetables well, to draw out their juices. Keep the poéle in a cool place until wanted. Poéling. — Take a pound of beef suet, one of fresh butter, and one of very fat bacon; cut the suet and bacon into very large dice, and put them in a stewpan with two pounds of veal cut in the same manner; fry them till the veal becomes white; moisten with three pints of clear boiling water, a handful of salt, a bay- leaf, a few sprigs of thyme, an onion ‘stuck with cloves, and a bundle of parsley and green onions.’ Let the whole boil’ quietly till the onion is done; strain it through a sieve, and set it by for usé. “Poéleis employed to make everything boiled in it look white, and ac- quire a relishing taste; it will keep for a week. Do not boil any lean of bacon with it, or the meat boiled in it will turn red, from the saltpetre used in curing the bacon. Poéling and braising are almost the same operation ; but in the former, meat must be underdone, in braising overdone. Poet’s Recipe for Salad (generally ascribed to the Rev. Sydney Smith) :— “Two boiled potatoes, passed through kitchen sieve Softness and smoothnegs to the salad give; | Of mordant mustard ‘add a single spoon, Distrust the condiment which bites too soon; Yet deem it not, thou man of taste, a fault To add @ double quantity of salt; POI ( 595 ) POL * Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, ‘And ‘twice with vinegar procured from town ; The flavour needs it, and your poet begs The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs; Let onions’ atoms lurk within the bowl, — And, scarce suspected, animate the.whole; And, lastly, in the favoured compound toss A magic tea-spoon of anchovy sauce... |, Oh, great; and glorious! Oh, herbaceous meat! 42h 8 HR i a How *Twould tempt. the, dying anchoret. to eat; Back 2 ‘the world he’d turn his weary 1, ¢ BOW, -, Gi a And dip his finger in the salad-bowl.. Then, though green turtle fail, though . ..¥enison’s tough, aes And ham and turkey are not boiled enough, Serenely full, the epicure may say, hs ae cannot harm me—I have dined. to- ye » + ' a oe fo Sgt oy Poivrade Sauce (a very good. sharp sauce).—Dissolve two ounces of butter over a gentle fire, and put with it a small slice jof ham cut into dice, a scraped carrot, a turnip, an onion, a shallot, a bay-leaf, a blade of mate, a small sprig of thyme, a stick of celery cut small, and twenty peppercorns. Stir these in- gredients over the fire till they are nicely browned, then add gradually a wine-glassful of vinegar, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a glass of port or sherry, a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, and half a pint of good brown sauce. Simmer gently by the side of the fire, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Strain, and serve hot. When thick brown sauce is not at hand, dissolve one ounce of ' butter in a saucepan, mix an ounce of flour smoothly with it, and stir quickly over a slow fire for three or four minutes, or. until it is nicely browned. Moisten gradually with a little broth, or failing this, water, until the sauce is of the consistency of thick cream. Boil it a minute or two, and it is ready for use. The quantity of vinegar used in this recipe may be increased or diminished, according to taste. Time, half an hour to simmer the sauce. Pro- bable cost, 1s. for this quantity. Sufficient for six or eight persons. . Poivrade Sauce (another way).—Take a slice of lean ham, and cut it into dice. Put it into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, and add a carrot, a turnip, a shallot, and two young onions, all finely sliced, together with a blade of mace and six or eight peppercorns. Stir these over a gentle’ fire until they are slightly browned, then add very gradually four table-spoontfuls of vinegar, three table-spoonfuls of port, a lump of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of good brown sauce. Simmer all gently together until the sauce is smooth, thick, and nicely flavoured, then strain, and serve imme- diately. When brown sauce is not at hand it may be easily made by mixing over a gentle fire equal proportions of butter and flour, stir- ring the mixture constantly until it is slightly browned, and then moistening it with boiling stock or even water. ‘Time to boil the sauce, half an hour. Probable cost, 10d., exclusive of the port. Sufficient for five or six persons. Poivrade Sauce, Easily made.—Put two ounces of butter into a stewpkh with two onions, a shallot,:a ‘carrot, a turnip ent into dice, two ‘cloves, d' bay-leaf, and :a' sprig of thyme. Stir these ingredients, stints over a entle fire‘ until they are lightly browned, then edge a dessert-spoonful of flour’ over ‘them, and add a little pepper and salt, a, glass of ‘claret, half a glass of vinopar, and’ a ‘dias of water. ‘Boil all gently for half an hour." Skim, strain, and servé. Time, ten minutés to fry the vegetables. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of the wine. Polenta.—Indian corn-flour, which is' very commonly used in Italy, is sent to various parts from that country, and sold under the name of polenta. In taste it much resembles macaroni, for which it is often used as a substitute. Semolina is frequently and advantageously used for the preparations which go by the name of polenta. : ca ‘ Polenta (4'l Italienne).-When made with Indian meal, put a quart of milk into a sauce- pan with a tea-spoonful of salt.. Let it boil quickly, then drop into it very ‘gradually as much Indian meal as will make it quite thick, stirring briskly all the time. Let it boil until quite smooth, then turn the polenta into a buttered mould, and mix with it an ounce of grated Parmesan. Stir briskly, and bake for a quarter of anhour. The polenta may be turned. out or not. When made with semolina, boil a quart of milk with half a tea-spoonful of salt. Drop into it about a quarter of a pound of semolina, stirring briskly all: the time, and let it boil gently for ten minutes. Be. very careful to prevent it ‘burning. When quite thick, pour into a plain mould, and set it in a cool place to stiffen. Cut it into slices three-. quarters of an inch thick. Butter a fresh plain. mould. Pour into it a small quantity of clari- fied butter, and then a layer of grated Par- mesan. Place on this a layer of slices of paste, and another layer of cheese. Moisten the mixture with a few drops of butter, and repeat. until the‘paste is used, and the dish is almost full. Place a thick layer of the cheese at the top, and a little more clarified butter, then bake the preparation in a moderate oven until./it.is brightly browned. Turn it upon a hot dish, and serve. A little grated cheese.is sometimes sent to table on a dish with the polenta, or a. little brown gravy is poured round it, but it requires neither. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for six or eight: persons. - divi ee Polenta, Italian (sce Italian Polenta). - Polenta Pudding, Sweet.—Boil the milk and the polenta as in the last recipe. When the mixture is quite smooth and thick, mix with it three table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, four ounces of stoned raisins, an ounce of candied .peel finely shred, half a nutmeg erated, and an ounce of butter. When the ingredients are well mixed, pour the preparation into a buttered. mould, and bake in a good oven. Turn the pudding out before serving. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. Suf- ficient for six or seven persons, POL (,59 93 ) POM Polenta Pudding (to be eaten with meat).—Boil a pint and a half of milk, and drop into it very gradually, stirring ‘briskly all the time, half a pound of polenta or maize- flour. Boil, and stir until the mixture is quite thiek and smooth, them stir in a little pepper and salt, and an ounce of fresh butter. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, and bake in a goodoven. Turn the pudding out before serving. Time to bake, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Polish Cutlets.—Take a pound of tender rump steak not more than an inch thick; cut it into neat rounds, and beat these flat with a cutlet bat. Mince finely two shallots, or a mo- derate-sized onion, and, if liked, add half a clove of garlic. Put these ingredients into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, half a salt-spoonful of pepper, and three bruised cloves. When the onions are tender, without being at all browned, lay the cutlets upon them, cover the saucepan closely, and let them steam very gently until they are quite tender. If the gravy dries, add one or two spoonfuls of stock, or even water. ‘When the cutlets are done enough, lift them out, and place them ona hot dish. Skim the gravy. Dredge a little flour into it, and colour with burnt sugar—or, better still, put a nut of brown thickening into it—let it boil two or three minutes, and strain it over the meat. Put a bordering of fried sliced potatoes round the dish, or place a few mashed potatoes in the centre, and serve very hot. Time to steam, about an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 10d. Suf- ficient for two or three persons. Polish Pudding.—Blanch one ounce of sweet almonds and six bitter ones, and pound them in a mortar to a smooth paste, adding a few drops of water to prevent their oiling. Put them into a saucepan with half a pint of new milk, and bring the liquid slowly to the boil. Mix two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot very smoothly with half a pint of cold milk. Pour the boiling milk upon this, and stir briskly for a minute or two. Add two ounces of fresh butter, and two well-beaten eggs, and stir the mixture again until it is cool. Put it into an oiled mould, and set it upon ice, if possible ; if not, lay it in a cool place until it is wanted. Turn it out before serving, and send hot plates to table with it, and the following sauce in a tureen :—Beat two ounces of fresh butter to a cream. Add two ounces of powdered sugar and two glassfuls of sherry, and mix thoroughly. Put the mixture into a small saucepan, and stir gently until it boils. Serve immediately. Time, six or eight hours to set the pudding, if it is not put upon ice. Probable cost, 1s., ex- clusive of the sherry. Sufficient for four or five persons. Polish Sauce, for Sweet Puddings. —Put an ounce of butter and a tea-spoonful of moist sugar into a stewpan, and when the sugar is dissolved stir in « tea-spoonful of fine flour. Let it brown, then pour in four table-spoonfuls of claret, add u tea-spoonful of stoned and zhopped raisins, a tea-spoonful of picked and washed currants, the eighth of a small nutmeg grated, an inch of thin lemon-rind, and half a aeaen almonds blanched and cut small. Sim- mer the sauce gently, until the currants are soit, and serve. Time to simmer, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 3d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Polish Tartlets.— If a little piece of puff paste is left after making vol-au-vents, or tarts, or any other articles of that sort, it may be advantageously used as follows :— Roll out the pastry till it is very thin, and cut it into pieces a little more than two inches square. Moisten the surface of these with a little water, and fold over the corners so that they will all meet in the centre. Put a little ball of pastry in the centre of each, and press it lightly down with the finger. Brush the tartlets over with egg, sprinkle a little pow- dered sugar upon them, and bake in a hot oven. Before serving, put a little bright- coloured jam round the little ball of pastry, and serve the tartlets on a neatly-folded napkin. Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. each. Sufficient, a quarter of a pound of puff pastry for a moderate-sized dish. Polish Tea. — Rub two or three large lumps of sugar upon the rind of a large fresh lemon until all the yellow part is taken off. Add a little more sugar to make up two ounces, and crush the sugar to powder. Strain over this the juice of the lemon, add two wine-glass- fuls of white wine, and cover the syrup until it is wanted. Puta pint of ale into a saucepan with four inches of stick cinnamon. Let it simmer gently for a few minutes, then stir into it a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot which has been made into a paste with a little wine. Add the syrup, and a little more sugar if required, and simmer the liquid a few minutes longer, stirring constantly. Draw the tea from the fire for a minute, and whisk into it the yolks of two eggs which have been beaten up with a little wine. Before serving, add a glass of maraschino. Time, twenty minutes to simmer the tea. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the wine and liqueur. Sufficient for almost a quart of Polish tea. Polpetti, Italian (sce Italian Polpetti). Pomegranate.—This is the fruit of the pomegranate tree (punica granatum), a plant which grows to the height of fifteen or twenty feet. The fruit isa pulpy many-seeded berry, the size of an orange, covered with a thick brown coriaceous rind. Its value depends on the smallness of the seed and the largeness of the pulp. The pulp is of a reddish hue, and has a pleasant sub-acid taste; it is very re- freshing. The singular and beautiful appear- ance of the fruit contributes to the variety of the dessert ; pomegranates, being powerfully acid and astringent, are used medicinally in fevers and inflammatory disorders. The pomegranate is a native of most parts of the South of Europe and of China. In Lan- guedoc, and some parts of Italy, it is employed as a hedge plant. It was cultivated in England, Loudon informs us, by Gerard, in 1596; but though it grows very well in the open air, it sel- dom _ripens its fruit so as to render it worth anything. The finest pomegranates, called by Ban 5 POM ( 597 ) POM the Persians Jadana, or seedless, are imported into India from Cabul and Candahar, where the tree grows in perfection. The fruit brought to this country from the South. of Europe and the West Indies is very inferior to that of Persia. The pomegranate, in addition to its valu- able qualities, possesses great historic interest. “We find it often mentioned in the Bible, where it is included in the fruits of Palestine, with the vine, the fig, the olive, and other ‘pleasant fruits.’ It likewise grows wild in Barbary. Pliny says that the Romans brought it from Carthage in the time of Sylla. It was likewise well known to the ancient Greeks, and held in great esteem by them. The story of Proserpine is familiar, who, having been carried off by Pluto, was prevented from returning to the earth in consequence of having tasted of this fruit in the Elysian fields. “Pomegranates are frequently represented in ancient sculp- ture.” The name pomegranate is derived from “pomum granatum,” a kernelled apple. Pomegranate Water.—Carefully take out the deep-coloured pips from three ripe pomegranates, and bruise them well with the back of a wooden spoon. Mix with them six ounces of roughly-powdered sugar, the strained juice of a lemon, three-quarters of a pint of water, two or three drops of cochineal, and half a dozen drops of the essence of elder flowers if it is at hand; if not, it may be dispensed with. Filter the liquid until it is clear, and it is ready for serving. Time, about twenty minutes to prepare. Probable cost, pomegranates, 4d. to Ig. each. Sufficient for a pint and a quarter of pomegranate water. Pomegranate Water Ice.—Take the ruby pips from two ripe pomegranates. Place them on a fine sieve over a basin, and bruise them well with the back of a wooden spoon to draw out the juice. With half a pint of this mix half a pint of strong syrup, the juice of a large fresh lemon, two or three drops of cochi- neal, a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, and the rind of an orange which has been rubbed upon two or three large lumps of sugar and crushed to powder ; freeze in the usual way. Time, about twenty minutes to prepare. Pro- bable cost, pomegranates, 4d. to 1s. each. Suf- ficient for a little more than a pint of water ice. Pomfret Puddings.—Rub the rind of a fresh lemon upon two or three lumps of sugar until all the yellow part is taken off. Add a little more sugar to make the weight: up toa quarter of a’ pound, then crush the sugar to powder. Beat. quarter of a pound of butter to acream. Add a pinch of salt, two well-whisked eggs, the powdered sugar, and a quarter of a pound of flour, and beat the mixture briskly for two or three minutes. Three parts fill some small cups with it, and bake in a brisk oven. When the puddings are done enough, turn them out upon'a hot dish, and send wine sauce to table in a tureen. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for half a dozen cups. Pomme Mange.—Take two pounds of apples weighed after they are pared ‘and cored. Cut: them into thin slices, and put them into a saucepan with the thinly-cut rind of two small lemons, half a pint of water, and one pound of loaf sugar. Boil the fruit until it is stiff and ‘Beat ‘briskly for a minute or two, take out the lemon-rind, and press the apples into an oiled mould.» Put it aside until cold, and turn out before serving. Time, varying with the quality of the apples. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized mould. Pommes, Gateau de (see Gateau de Pommes). Pomona Jelly.—Take half a dozen good- sized and rather acid. apples—Keswicks will answer excellently for the purpose. Pare, core, and slice them, and as they are done throw them into cold water to keep them from turning yellow. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with six ounces of loaf sugar and a very small quantity of water to keep them from burning,and let them simmer gently until they are quite soft. Press them through a coarse sieve, and mix with them half an ounce of isinglass or gelatine which has been dissolved in less ‘than half a pint of water. Rub three large lumps of sugar upon the rind of a fresh lemon till the yellow part is taken off ; add this tothe jelly. Stir the jelly over the fire until it is quite hot, put it into a mould, and set it in a cool place to stiffen; turn out before serving. Time to stiffen, twelve hours. Probable cost, 10d. if made with gelatine. Sufficient for 2 pint of jelly. Pompadour Pudding, Rich.— Pour a third of a, pint of boiling cream upon two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and let them soak until cool. Beat well with a fork, and mix with them five ounces of finely-shred beef suet, an ounce of flour, two ounces of macaroons crushed to powder, three ounces of powdered sugar, two ounces of table raisins weighed after the stones are taken out, two ounces of dried cherries, four ounces of candied peel cut into thin slices, the grated rind of half a lemon, half a nutmeg grated, anda pinch of salt. When these ingredients are well mixed, stir in the yolks of four eggs and a glassful of brandy. ‘Pour the mixture into a buttered mould which it will fill to the brim, cover with oiled paper, and tie securely in a floured cloth.’ Boil or steam the pudding until it is done enough, let it stand a minute or two . PON ( 598 ) POO before turning ,it: out, dish ;it, carefully, ,and serve at once.. ' If liked, the pudding can be ad- ditionally flavoured, and, will, be improved by boiling in the cream .before ,it is poured over, the crumbs, three ounces of blanched sweet, almonds and three, bitter,ones. Before sending, the pudding, to table, pour, over: it a sauce prepared as, follows:—Make, two glasses of sherry hot, but do not- let it boil. Pour it, over..a ‘large table-spoonful. of powdered, and. sifted, sugar, and when this is dissolved stir into. it the well-beaten ,yolks of two eggs. ‘Whisk the sauce briskly over a gentle fire, and, when it begins to thicken and is lightly frothed it is ready. Time to boil the pudding, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 28. 8d., exclu- sive of the sauce and brandy. Sufficient for a ? pint mould. val Pontiff’s Sauce.—Take a quarter of a pound of veal and a quarter of a pound of ham cut into.small ‘pieces.. Put these into a stew- pan with a quarter of a pound of carrots, a quarter of. a:pound of parsnips, a quarter of a pound of celery, and a quarter of a pound of. onions, all’ sliced, and a quarter of an ounce each of lemon rind, shallots, and coriander- seed; ‘Pour over these ingredients a-pint of a vinegar and half a pint of ketchup, and simmer all very gently for three or,four hours. _About ten minutes before the sauce is taken from the fire put with it half a pint of white wine. Skim and strain the liquid. When it is cold, put the sauce into small bottles. Cork these securely, and store for use. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the wine. A small portion of the -pontiff’s sauce to be used for flavouring ‘sauces and gravies. . Pooloot, Indian (sce Indian Pooloot.) . Poor Epicure’s Pudding.—Put two pints of new milk into, a saucepan with four inches of stick cinnamon, half a dozen blanched, and sliced almonds, the thin rind of a lemon, or any flavouring that may be preferred. Bring it slowly to the boil; strain and add to the,milk a. pinch of salt and a little sugar. If Swiss milk is used sugar will not be required. When the milk is cold, mix with it three well-beaten eggs. Pour the custard into a buttered pie-dish, and lay on the top slices of bread the third of an inch thick. These should be thickly buttered on both sides, should be entirely free from crust, and should cover the milk entirely. Bake ina moderate oven. ‘Time to bake, forty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Oe Poor Knight’s Pudding.—Cut two penny rolls into slices three-quarters of an inch thick. Lay them on a dish, pour over them half a pint of milk, and let them lie. until the ‘bread, has soaked up allthe milk. Make alittle custard with three-quarters of a pint of milk, three eggs, a little sugar, and grated: nutmeg. Pour half of this over the slices of roll. Fry in butter until they are brown. Put them on a hot dish, and pour the rest of the custard over them. Send butter and sugar to table with them. Time to fry,.about ten minutes. Pro- bable cost, 9d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Poor Man’s Galette (see. Galette, Poor Man's). Reha oh i doar Poor Man’s Jelly.—Take, a.cow’s :heel properly prepared by the butcher. Cut it into small pieces, and put it into a stewpan with three quarts of: cold water.....Cover. closely, and let it simmer gently for six.or seven hours until the liquid is reduced to three pints. Strain, and let it stand until stiff. Take the fat from the top, and clear it off entirely by rinsing with a little warm water and.pressing with _blotting-paper. Take out the jelly, being care- ful to leave behind the sediment, which will have settled at the bottom. Put the jelly intoa stewpan, with the thin rind and:strained juice of two lemons, a pint of Scotch ale, or, if pre- ferred, two glassfuls of sherry, and eight or nine lumps of sugar. Stir the jelly over the fire, and as it, melts mix with it the well-whisked whites anid crushed shells of three eggs. Assoon as the liquid begins to get hot cease stirring, and do not touch it again, Let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour after it reaches the boiling point. Draw the saucepan away from the fire, and let it stand to séttle for twenty minutes longer. Pour it, two or three times if ecessary, through a jelly-bag which has been rung, out of boiling water. If, however, the directions given have been closely followed, the jelly, can scarcely ‘fail to be clear after once straining. Turn it into a damp mould, and let it stand until firm. Sufficient for two qtiarts of jelly. Probable cost, 6d. per pint, exclusive of the wine or ale. © oP eh abe al Poor Man’s Sauce for Cold Meats. —Pick a handful of young parsley-leaves, and | chop them small. Put with them ja, table- spoonful of chopped shallots, or a dozen young green onions finely minced, a tea-spoontul of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Mix. the dry ingredients thoroughly, put. them into a tureen, and pour over them. two table-spoon- fals of salad-oil and four of vinegar. Stir-all together and serve. If liked, a table-speonful of pickled French beans or gherkins cut small may be added to the sauce. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for three,or four persons. eet al ‘Poor Man’s Sauce (andther way).— Mince an onion or two or three shallots ‘finely. Fry it in a little dripping until it is tender; then pour over it a glass of vinegar and a glass of water or broth, and add a little pepper and salt. Let the sauce simmer gently a 'few'minutes, and serve. A table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup can be added or not. This sauce maybe served with young roast turkey: Probable cost,'-3d. Sufficient for three or four persons.:. .) : - _ Poor Man’s Soup.—The dripping which is used for making soup should, be taken, out of the tin almost as soon as it has dropped from the meat. If any cinders have accidentally dropped into if, it should be clarified.’ Throw four ‘table- spoonfuls of beef dripping into two quarts of boiling water. Add an ounce’ of butter, a pound and a half of raw potatoes sliced, and a little pepper and salt. Boil for an hour. Take the heart of,a young cabbage, break ‘it into small pieces, throw it into the soup, and let it boil POO ( 599 ) POR quickly until it is done enough. . Serve, imme- diately.:: Send toasted: sippets to table. on a separate dish. If, instead of water, the liquid in which meat has been boiled can be used, the soup will, of course, be much improved. Suf- ficient for five pints of soup. Probable cost, ‘1d, per pint. ek Poor Man’s Soup (another way).—Slice two onions, and cut four ounces of bacon into dice. Fry: these in two ounces of good beef dripping until they are lightly browned. Add a large carrot, a turnip, a leek, and. three or four outer sticks of celery, all cut into thin pieces. Fry for a few minutes longer. Pour in six quarts of water. Let the liquid boil, then throw in a little more than a pint of split peas, which have been soaked for several hours in cold water. Simmer the soup gently until the peas are re- duced to a pulp. Press through a sieve. Return the soup to the saucepan, mix with it two table- spoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, one of dried mint, half a table-spoonful of pepper, and half a pound of flour mixed smoothly with a pint of water. Boil half an hour longer, and serve. If preferred, the mint can be served separately at table, and taken or ‘not according to indi- vidual taste. Time, varying with the freshness of the peas, usually about four hours. Suf- ficient for twelve or fourteen people. Probable cost, 1d. per quart. Poor Man/’s Soup, Dr. Kitchiner’s. —Wash .a quarter of a pound of Scotch, barley in two or three waters. Drain it, and put it into a large stewpan with four ounces of sliced onion and ;five quarts of water. Boil the liquid, skim it, and let it simmer gently for an hour, then pour it out. Put into the pan two ounces of clear beef dripping and two ounces of fat bacon cut into dice. "When, these are melted, stir in four ounces of oatmeal, and rub these to a smooth paste with the back of a wooden spoon. ‘When well mixed, add the barley liquid very gradually, first by spoonfuls. Stir frequently until it boils. Season with salt, pepper, and a little allspice; boil a quarter of an hour longer,and serve. If liked, the flavour of this soup can be varied by frying a larger portion of onion or a, little carrot and celery with the bacon. Time, two and a half to three hours. Probable cost, 1d. per quart. Suf- ficient for a dozen people. , Pope, or Ruffe.—This is a small fresh- water fish, closely allied to the perch. It is to be met with in all the rivers and canals of England, its favourite haunt being slow shady streams. It greatly resembles the perch, in flavour, being firm, delicate, and well-tasted, and is excellent broiled in buttered paper. Pope’s Posset.—Blanch eight ounces of sweet almonds and six or eight bitter ones, and pound them in a mortar with a few drops of water to prevent them oiling. Put them intoa pint of cold water, and bring the liquid slowly to a boil. Strain, and mix with it a bottle of white wine boiling hot. Add sugar to taste, and serve. Time, about half an hour to pre- pare, Sufficient for a quart jug. ~ Porcupine Meat (see Meat, Porcupine). _ Porcupine Pudding.—Wash a quarter of a pound of the, best Carolina rice in. jwvo or three waters. -Drain it, and put it into a stew- pan with a pint. or more of cold milk, a little sugar, the thin rind of half a lemon, or any other flavouring that may be preferred, Boil very gently until the rice is quite tender and has absorbed all the milk.. ‘The; time required will..depend in a great, measure upon the quality of the rice, but fully.an hour should be allowed for it. Wheh it is quite dry, turn it out, beat it well with a spoon to a smooth paste, mix, with it three well beaten eggs, and turn i into a well-oiled mould, . Cover it, and steam it by placing it on a plate.turned upside down in a saucepan with about three inches of water round it. Whilst it is steaming, blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, cut them into shreds, and throw them into cold. water to preserve their colour. Turn the pudding out upon a dish, stick the almonds all over it, and pour round it a pint and a half of nicely-flavoured custard. Time to steam, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 9d. exclusive of the custard. Sufficient for four or five persons. Pork.—Pork, more than any other meat, requires to be chosen with the greatest: care, The pig, from its gluttonous habits, is particu- larly liable to disease, and if it is killed and its flesh eaten when in an unhealthy condition, those who ‘partake of it will probably have' to pay’dearly for their indulgence. - It is gene- rally. understood that dairy-fed pork is the best. ‘When it is possible, therefore, it is ‘always safest to obtain pork direct from some farm where it has been fed.and. killed. . When this cannot be done, it should either be. purchased from x thoroughly respectable and reliable person or dispensed with altogether, Pork is best in cold weather. It is in season from November to: March. It.should be avoided during the summer months. |The fat should be white and firm, the lean finely grained, and the skin thin and cool. Ifthe skin is thick, the pig is old; if it is clammy, it is stale; if any kernels are to be seen in:the fat, the pig was diseased at the time it waskilled. Porkshould not. be allowed to hang more than a day. or two before it is cooked, as it will not.keep.unless it be salted. If cooked iguite fresh, however, .it will be hard. The head, heart, kidneys, liver, &c., should be cooked as soon as possible. ' Care should be taken that pork is thoroughly cooked, as it is most indigestible when under-dressed. A porker, or pig which is to be cut up for fresh pork, is generally killed when it is from six to nine-months old. A bacon pig is allowed ‘to grow older and bigger. The manner of cutting up the pig varies in different parts. A porker is guickally divided as follows:—' 1. Spare. . Roasted. To be 10d. to 103d. _rib. . cooked . whilst . per pound. ve fresh. ad. 2. Hand. . Slightlysalted and 8d. to 9d. ' boiled. Gene- per pound. rally too fat: for : roasting. : 3. Belly, or Slightly salted and 9d. to 10d ispring. . boiled,:or salted per pound.: for bacon. re POR ( 600 ) POR 4. Fore To be jointed and 93d. to 103d. | pour it over the meat. It will be ready for loin. roasted: Cut into i ann serving when cold. Time to boil the pork, chops, used for : twenty-two minutes per pound from the time curry or for pies. the water boils. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. . ‘ : Pork and Apple Pie.—Cut the pork 6. Bing Ditta; ditte: z ae ©? | in thin slices, ged Dea these with pepper, : - salt,and grated nutmeg. Fill a pie-dish with a. Teg. Hae ted ot Ne: 20 ae alternate Sayer of these,and of apples which Be POU eee oa per pounc. | have been pared, cored, and sliced. Adda little tot eee sugar for sweetening, and as ee wine eae as will moisten the contents of the dish, and Head. ree ise a od. to a place two or three good-sized lumps of butter eae and Per pounce. | upon the top. Cover the whole with a good os salted ma crust, and bake in a hot oven. Time to bake a boiled. rans Ree moderate-sized pie, one hour and a half. of the head, with Pork, Belly of.—The belly of pork is the tongue, feet, generally either pickled and boiled, or salted and ears, salted and cured for bacon, and it may be dressed ag and made into follows :—Take the belly of a porker, either brawn. fresh or salted, lay it, skin downwards, flat on Fry, in- To be cooked as 5d. per | the table, and sprinkle over the inside a savoury cluding soon as possible. pound. powder made of two table-spoonfuls of finely- the liver, grated bread-crumbs, two table-spoonfuls of heart, powdered sage, a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea- kidneys, ° spoonful of pepper, and two finely-minced &e. shallots. Roll the meat tightly round, bind it Feet. Salted, boiled, and 14d. to 3d._ | with tape, and either bake it or roast it. It served with each. may be served hot with brown gravy, or ‘parsley sauce. A bacon pig is cut up differently. The chine is in some parts cut from the centre of the pig the whole length from the tail to the neck. In other parts the meat which is taken from the upper part of the spine, between the shoulders, is called the chine, and the hind loin the gviskin. The chine may be salted and boiled, or roasted. Itis highly esteemed. The hind leg is salted and cured, and called ham; the fore leg is generally left with the side, and salted for bacon. The spare rib is sometimes cut out, oftener it is left with the bacon. Some- times the meat for bacon is cut off from the shoulder-blade and bones, and the latter, with very little meat on them, are divided into chines, spare-ribs, and griskins. The inner fat is melted down for lard. In pickling pork great care must be taken that every part is basted regularly and turned about the brine. If any portion is long exposed to the air it may be spoiled. Pork (ala mode).—Large pork, such as por- tions of the shoulder, loin, or spare rib, of large bacon hogs, may be cooked as follows :—Rub the joint with pepper and salt, and put it into a large saucepan which has a closely-fitting lid. Add two or three onions and carrots, with half | a dozen sticks of celery, four sage-leaves, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of mar- joram and thyme, and as much stock or water as will cover the whole. Let the liquid boil, skim carefully, then draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for three or four hours, according to the size of the joint. When the pork is done enough, lift it out, put the vegetables round it, strain and thicken a portion of the gravy, and pour it boiling hot over the pork. When the pork is removed from the table, trim it neatly, place it on a clean dish, strain and thicken the rest of the gravy, and allowed to grow cold, and then be pressed. Time to roast or bake, twenty minutes per pound. Probable gost, 9d. to 10d. per pound. ' Pork, Belly. of, Rolled and Boiled. —Salt a belly o: pork; young meat will be the best for the purpose. To do this, mix a salt- spoonful of powdered saltpetre with two table- spoonfuls of common salt, sprinkle the mixture over the pork, and let it lie for three days. ‘When ready to dress the meat, wash it in cold water, and dry it with a cloth. Lay it, skin downwards, on a table, remove the bones, and cover the inside with pickled gherkins cut into very thin slices. Sprinkle over these a little powdered mace and pepper. Roll the meat tightly, and bind securely with tape. Put it into a saucepan with two onions stuck with six cloves, three bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Bring the liquid slowly to the boil, skim carefully, draw it to the side, and simmer gently till the meat is done enough. Put it between two dishes, lay a weight upon it, and leave it until it is quite cold. The bandages should not be removed until the meat is to be served. Time to simmer, half an hour per pound. Probable cost, 9d. to 10d. per pound. Pork Black Puddings.—When black puddings or blood puddings are liked at all they are generally liked very much. They are boiled in the intestines of the hog, and these must of course be very carefully prepared for them as follows:—Empty them, wash and scrape them in several waters, turning them inside out two or three times, and lay them in salt and water all night. The next day rinse them in fresh cold water, and they will be ready for use. To make the puddings, throw a little salt into a quart of the warm blood, and stir until the blood is cold. Mix with it a quart of whole groats which have been soaked in POR ( 601 ) POR cold water all night, add the grated crumb of a quartern loaf which has been soaked in two quarts of hot milk. until the milk was ab- sorbed. Mix these ingredients thoroughly. Prepare a seasoning of a tea-spoonful of winter savoury mixed with a tea-spoonful of chopped thyme, a tea-spoonful of chopped onion, half a tea-spoonful of penny-royal, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, half a dozen pounded cloves, half a nutmeg grated, and a quarter of an ounce each of pounded allspice and ginger. Stir this seasoning into the groats, bread- crumbs, and blood, and add three pounds of finely-chopped beef suet and six well-beaten eggs. Cut half a pound of the inward fat of the pig into pieces the size of a large bean. Tie the skins at one end, and turn them inside out. Half fill them only with the mixture to allow room for swelling, and put in the fat at regular intervals. Tie them in equal lengths or rounds, fasten the ends securely, throw- them into boil- ing water, and when they have boiled for five minutes take them out, prick them to let out the air, put them back, and boil gently for half an hour. Take them up, and when they are cold hang them in a cool dry place until wanted. When they are to be used, boil w few minutes in water, and toast in a Dutch oven. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Pork Black Puddings (another way).— Prepare the skins. (See the preceding recipe. Put a little salt into the warm blood, an stir until it is cold. Boil a quart of ‘half grits until tender in as much milk as will cover them all the time. Drain them, and mix with them half a pound of bread-crumbs which have been soaked in hot milk until all the milk was absorbed, a pint of cream, and as much blood as will make the pud- ding a dark colour. Add a pound of finely shred suet and a dessert-spoonful each of chopped sage, thyme, marjoram, penny-royal, and onion, with a table-spoonful of parsley, and a seasoning made of two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, six cloves, and a quarter of an ounce each of pounded nutmeg, ginger, and allspice. Mix all thoroughly with eight well- beaten eggs. Cut two pounds of the inward fat of the pig into pieces the eize of a large bean. Half fill the skins, put in the fat at regular intervals, and tie the pudding in equal lengths. Put these into hat water, boil five minutes, then prick and boil them again half an hour. Serve as before directed. Probable cost, 5s. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Pork Black Puddings (another way). —See Black Pudding, &c.; a/so Pig’s Blood. Pork Black Puddings with Onions. —Prepare the skins according to the directions given. in the last recipe but one. Put a table- spoonful of vinegar into a quart of warm blood, and stir until it is cold. Cut four ounces of the inward fat of the pig into dice, and mix with this two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, @ quarter of an ounce each of allspice and ginger powdered, and six ounces of min cd onions which have been fried until tender in a little dripping or lard. Add the blood, and mix thoroughly. Half fill the skins, tie them in equal lengths, and boil very gently until they are done enough. In order to ascertain when they have reached the proper point, prick them with a large needle. If nothing but fat follows the needle, take them up, lay them on a napkin to coal, and hang them in a cool dry place. ‘When they are wanted, simmer them for ten minutes, cut them into thin slices, and fry them. Time to boil, about twenty-five minutes. Suf- ficient for six or eight persons. Pork Black Puddings with Rice. —Stir a little salt in a pint and a half of warm blood till it is cold. Add the grated crumb of half a quartern loaf, and six ounces of Carolina rice which has been boiled until tender in a quart of milk. Mix thoroughly, add the seasoning mentioned in the preced- ing recipe, with three ounces of the inward fat of the pig cut into dice, one pound of finely-shred beef suet, and four well-beaten eggs. Half fill the skins, boil, hang, and serve as before; these puddings are very good when they are lightly broiled instead of being fried. Time to boil, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost,-2s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Pork, Bladebone of.—The bladebone of pork from a full-grown bacon-hog, and from. which nearly all the meat has been cut, may be taken. It is best broiled over a quick fire until the meat is done through. A minute before it is taken fgom the fire a little pepper and salt should be sprinkled over it. Serve on a hot dish with a tea-spoonful of mustard mixed with a piece of butter the size of an egg laid upon the meat. Time to broil, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 8d. to 9d. per pound. Pork Brawn.—Take a small pig's head with the tongue, and two pig’s feet. Clean and wash them, sprinkle two table-spoonfuls of salt over them, and let them drain until the following day. Dry them with a soft cloth, and-rub into them a powder made of six ounces of common salt, six ounces of moist sugar, three-quarters of an ounce of saltpetre, and three-quarters of an ounce of black pepper- Dry the powder well, and rub it into every part of the head, tongue, ears, and feet: turn them over and rub them again every day for ten days. Wash the pickle from them, cut off the ears, and boil them with the feet ina separate saucepan with as much cold water as will cover them. They will require to be boiled one hour ‘and a half before the head, and afterwards may be put with it. Put the head and tongue into a stewpan, cover with cold water, and let them boil gently until the bones will leave the meat. ‘Take them up, drain them, cut the meat into small pieces, first re- moving the bones from the head, feet, and ears, and the' skin from the tongue; do this as quickly as possible. Season the mince with a tea-spoonful of white pepper, three salt-spoon- fuls of powdered mace, one salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and one salt-spoonful of cayenne. Stir all well together, press the meat while still warm into a brawn tin, and lay a heavy weight on the lid. Put it in a cool place until the following day, dip the mould in boiling water, turn the brawn out, and serve on FOR 602 ) POR a neatly-folded napkin. Vinegar.and mustard: should be served with pork brawn. . Time to boil the head, two:hours, less or more, according to size; till the flesh. leaves the:bone. Probable- cost of head, 5d. to 63d: per pound,: Sufficient. tor a good-sized breakfast:or luncheon dish. Pork, Breast of, with Rice.—Wash one pound of best rice, and_ boil it in a quart of water for five minutes. “Drain it, and put it aside. Cut a pound of: the breast of pork, fat and lean together, into dice. Fry these in two ounces of butter till they:are lightly browned, then add the rice, three, pints:of stock or water, and alittle pepper and salt if required.. Sim- mer all gently for half an hour, and stir the mixture occasionally to keep the rice from burning to the bottom of the saucepan. Serve all together, on a hot dishwith a pound of fried sausages laid round it. Time, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 6d., exclusive of the sausages. : Pork Cheese.—Take four pounds of rather under-dressed cold roast pork, one pound of which should be fat, and the rest lean. Cut it into small neat pieces, and season rather highly with pepper and salt. Chop small six or eight large sage-leaves, and mix with them two table-spoonfuls of minced parsley, half a tea-spoonful of powdered thyme, half a tea- spoonful of powdered marjoram, twu blades of powdered mace, a tea-spoonful of minced lemon- rind, and a quarter of a nutmeg grated. Put the meat into a mould, sprinkle the ‘savoury powder in with it, and just cover it with strong, nicely-flavoured gravy. Bake in.a moderate oven. Let the meat stand till cold, and turn it out before serving. Vinegar and mustard should be eaten with pork cheese. Time to bake, one hour. Probable cost of pork, 9d. to lld. per pound. Sufficient for a moderate- sized breakfast dish. Pork Cheese (a 1’Italienne):—Take three pounds of fresh pork,-one pound and three- quarters fat and one pound and a quarter lean. Chop it rather coarsely, and» mix with it a savoury powder made of three tea-spoonfuls of salt, three salt-spoonfuls of pepper, a tea-spoon- ful of chopped parsley, a salt-spoonful of chopped sage, a salt-spoonful:of powdered thyme, a tea- spoonful of mushroom-powder, and a grated nutmeg. Press the meat into a shallow baking- tin, and bake in a slow oven. Let the cheese get cold, and when serving cut.it in slices like brawn, Send vinegar and mustard to table with it. i i Se Pork Cheese (a. I'Italienne. Another way).—WSee Italian Pork Cheese. Pork, Chine of.—The chine of pork is that sei of the pig which is taken from the spine tween the shoulders. It is generally sent to table with turkey, and should be salted .for three or four days before it is cooked. There is a good deal more of fat than lean in it. To boil it, put it in plenty of water, let it boil slowly, skim thoroughly, and serve garnished with any kind. of greens. It is as often roasted as boiled. When . reasted, the; skin should be scored before it is put down to the fire. Make a sauce by frying two or three sliced onions in butter till they are lightly browned. . Pour off. the oil, and add:a cuptul of good gravy with.a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, half'a cupful of vinegar, a ‘pinch of salt, and a large lump of sugar. Boil this, and pour it:into the dish. Time to boil, half an hour to the pound after it boils; to roast, twenty minutes to.the. pound. Probable eost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient, four or five pounds for a moderate-sized turkey. Pork, Chine of (another way).—Make a savoury powder with a dessert-spoonful of finely - chopped sage, half a tea-spoonful of thyme, half a'tea-spoonful of parsley, a small tea-spoonful of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Score the chine lengthwise, and slip the powder under the skin. Roast according to the directions given above. If liked, the powder can be omitted, and'a sauce, made as follows, sent to’table ‘with the chine:—Slice two large onions, and fry them in a little good dripping until they are lightly browned without being burnt. Drait them, and put them into a‘ clean saucepan with half a pint’ of brown sauce, two table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, or & ‘tea-spoonful of mushroom-powder, or a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and one tea-spoon- ful of mixed mustard Let the sauce boil, and serve. Time to roast, twenty rhinutes per pound. Probable cost, 94d. to 103d. per pound. Pork, Chine of, Boiled.—Lay the chine in common brine, and turn it every day for ten days. Wash it from'the pickle, drain it, put it into a saucepan, and cover with cold water. Bring it to the boil, skim the liquid carefully, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the pork simmer very gently until done enough. Garnish the dish with small boiled cauliflowers or brussels sprouts. Time to boil, half an hour to the pound from the time the water boils. Probable cost, 94d. to 104d. per pound. , Pork, Chine of, Roasted.—Score the chine lengthwise, brush: the skin over with salad oil, and put the meat down to a cleag fire, a considerable distance from. it at first, that it may heat gently through before it browns. Baste liberally. Send good brown gravy, apple sauce, tomato sauce, or. piquant sauce, to table with it. If liked, a table-spoonful of powdered sage may be sprinkled over the meat a quarter of an hour before it is taken from the fire. When this is done, care should be taken that the gravy is poured round, and not upon, the meat. Time to roast, twenty minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 94d. to 104d. per pound. ft Pork, Chine of, Roasted (another way). —Remove some of the fat, then roast the meat for two’ hours or longer—say, until it is thoroughly done. Send it to table by itself, or with piquant sauce. Before cooking this joint it should bé sprinkled with salt and spices, and hung up for three days, or longer, according to the season. Pork, Choosing of.—Pinch the lean, and if young it will break. Should the rind be tough, thick, and not easily impressed by the fingers, the meat is,old. A thin rind js a de- sirable feature in all pork. When fresh, the POR ( 603 ) POR flesh will be smooth and ccool;: if tainted, ‘it will be clammy. What ‘is known as measly pork is very unwholesome ; it may be recognised by its‘being full of kernels, which in good pork is never the case. Dairy-fed'pork is the best. lee 3 oan th , Pork Chops.—The best: chops are. those which are taken from the kidney end of the loin, and’ @ little slice of kidney may ‘be advan, tageously cut with each chop. In whatever way pork ‘chops are cooked, whether they are fried, broiled,'or stewed, care should be taken that'they are done through. '' Every particle of meat should be raised to, and kept! for a few thinutes at, a temperature at least’ a trifle above that of boiling water. If thoroughly cooked without being dried up, few viands are more grateful than pork chops for taste in dishing, and for whatever pleasant adjuncts may be bestowed upon them. These may be con- siderably varied. Pork chops may be sent to table surrounding mashed potatoes which have been turned out of a mould after browning in the oven. They may be served on a purée of sorrel or-a layer of‘spinach; they may encircle a mound of brussels. sprouts, with a suitable sauce poured over the sprouts; they may be served on stewed red cabbage or chopped savoy ; or they may be simply dished in.a circle with tomato sauce, thick brown sauce, apple sauce, piquant sauce, cucumber sauce, Robert sauce, provengala sauce, or shallot gravy, in. a tureen. bable cost of trimmed chops, is. per pound, Pork Chops, Bread-crumbed and Broiled.—Trim the, chops as, in the next recipe, season them pleasantly, and dip them in clarified butter, or brush them oyer with oil; then egg and bread-crumb them. Broil them over a clear fire; turn them frequently. Serve very, hot. Send tomato or piquant sauce to table with them. Time to broil, sixteen to eighteen minutes. ,Probable cost, 1s. per pound, Sufficient for one person. © Pork Chops, Broiled.—Cut ‘thé-'chops rather less than half an inch thick. Havéa cléar fire; make the gridiron hot before putting the chops upon it, and let them be at such a distance that they may be done through. ‘Pepper them before putting them down, and two or three minutes before they are done sprinkle a little salt over them, and, if liked, a little finely- chopped sage or tarragon. ‘Turn,them fre- quently, and’ serve very hot. Tomato sauce, piquant sauce, Italian sauce, or Robert’ sauce, may be sent to table with them. Time to broil, sixteen to eighteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, oné pound: for two persons. oe eentan, S Pork Chops, Fried.—Cut two pork chops half an inch, in thickness, take off; part of the fat, and trim them neatly. Sprinkle them on both sides with a little salt, and pepper. Melt an ounce. of butter ina sauté pan, put the chop in it, and fry them until they aré thoroughly done. If liked, a little powdered sage can be sprinkled over them before serving.’ Send Robert sauce, apple sauce, or piquant sauce to table in a tureen. Time to ‘fry, twenty minutes—ten minutes on each side ‘Pork Chops; Savoury.—Gut the shops half an inch thick from 2 good loin of pork; trim them' neatly, and sprinkle ‘a little salt and Pepper over them. - Také’ a’ slice of fat bacon, cut'it and the’ trimmings from the chops’into small pieces, and put them’ into a stewpan with a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a spoonful of chopped: sage, a ‘finely-minced shallot, a salt-spoonful of salt, and ‘ a salts spoonful. of white pepper. ' Add the. chops, cover the saucepan closely, and let them stew gently for twenty mimites.’ Lift them out, put them on a hot’ dish, and keep them hot.’ Pour over the herbs two table-spoonfuls of stock or water and a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice. Let it boil up, strain it, and skim off the fat. Boil again with a glass of port, and serve. it round the chops.’ Probable cost, Is. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for two or three persons. Pork Collops.— Cut a pound of cold roast pork into neat slices. Trim off the fat, season with pepper and salt, cover up the ‘slices to keep them from the dust, and put them aside. Mince finely two large onions and three apples, put them into a saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, and four of sherry. Let them simmer gently until reduced -to pulp, stirring them every now, and then to keep.them from burn- ing. Beat them until quitesmooth. Broil the collops over a clear fire: Pour the sauce into the centre of «1 hot dish. Put the collops round, and serve. Time to broil the collops, eight minutes; one hour to simmer the sauce. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the wine and cold meat. Sufficient, for two or three persons. Pork, Curried.—Take two pounds of pork with a moderate share of fat. Cut it into neat slices, and fry these in a little butter until they are nicely browned.; drain them, ‘and put them aside. Put into the butter six onions and one apple finely minced. ''Move them about, until they are’ quite soft, and work them through a sibve by pressing them with the back of a wooden spoon.. Mix-with the pulp a table- spoonful of curry powder, a table-spoonful of curry paste, a dessert-spoonful: of ground: rice, three-quarters ‘of a' pint of stock or water, and a little salt. Stir the’ sauce over the fire till it boils, put in the slices of pork, let these boil up, then draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and simmer gently until the curry is done enough. Take out the pieces of meat, boil the sauce quickly for two or three minutes, pour it over the curry, and serve. Send a little rice to table ona separate dish. Time to boil.the curry, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, pork, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four people. Pork Cutlets.—Pork cutlets are best taken from: the neck or fore’ loin of small, dairy-fed pork, not very fat. They should be neatly trimmed, the chine bone removed, and the end of the bone bared about an inch. The skin should be scored at regular intervals, and the cutlets flattened with a cutlet-bat, and then broiled or fried ‘according to the directions given in the following recipes. POR ( 604 ) POR Pork Cutlets, Broiled.—Prepare the cutlets according to the directions given above; season with pepper and salt, brush them oyer with oil, and place them ona hot gridiron over a clear fire. Turn them two or three times that they may be equally browned on both sides, and let them be thoroughly cooked. Put them on «a hot dish, and send tomato or piquant sauce, sauce Robert, or any other ap- propriate sauce, to table with them. Pork cutlets may be served with the same accompani- ment as pork chops (see Pork Chops). The appearance of the cutlets will be improved if they are lightly brushed over with a little glaze, but they must be quickly served after they are taken from the fire or they will be spoiled. Time to broil, sixteen to eighteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Suflicient, one pound for two persons. | Pork Cutlets, Fried.—Pork cutlets may be fried according to the directions given for pork chops, or as follows :—Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and stir into it a tea- spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of chopped sage, and a tea-spoonful of finely- minced shallot. Move these ingredients about for a minute, then add a little salt and pepper and two eggs well beaten. Dip the cutlets first into this mixture, then into finely-grated bread- crumbs, and let them stand ten minutes. Melt a little butter in the frying-pan, fry the cutlets in it, and when done enough, serve with good brown sauce ina tureen. Time to fry, fifteen to eighteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for two or three persons. Pork Cutlets, Marinaded.—Mince an onion finely, and jay it at the bottom of a shallow dish, with a bay-leaf, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a salt-spoonful of salt, and a salt-spoonful of pepper. Lay the cutlets upon this mixture, and cover with oil. Let them lie for two hours, turn them, and leave them two hours longer. Fry them in the marinade till they are thoroughly cooked; drain them, place them round a hot dish, pour a little tomato sauce into the centre, and serve. Time to fry, fifteen to eighteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for two or three persons. Pork Cutlets, Savoury.—Savoury pork cutlets may be dressed according to the direc- tions’ given for savoury pork chops (sce Pork Chops, Savoury), or as follows :—Take a moderate-sized saucepan with a closely- fitting lid. Melt in this two ounces of fresh butter, and throw into it a table-spoonfnl each of chopped parsley and sage, a pinch of thyme, three bay-leaves,a blade of mace, and eight allspice. Stir over the fire for a minute, then add a glass of light wine and a pound of properly trimmed pork cutlets. Cover the saucepan closely, and let, the contents steam for a quarter of an hour. Take the cutlets up, drain them, and dip them first into beaten egg, and afterwards into finely-grated bread- crumbs. Fry quickly, and serve them round a hot dish, with the sauce poured into the centre. The sauce may be prepared as follows :—Strain the sauce, from the cutlets. Skim it, stir a table-spoonful of lemon-juice into it,, thicken with, a very small portion of flour, and just before sending it to table mix.a tea-spoonful of mustard with it. Time, ten minutes to fry the cutlets. Probable cost, cutlets, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. . Pork Cutlets with Sauce Robert,— Take two pounds of properly trimmed pork cutlets, and lay them in a deep dish Put a glass of vinegar, a glass of sherry, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, three shallots, a blade of mace, eight peppercorns, and two allspice into a saucepan. Let these ingre- dients boil up, then turn the mixture into a basin, and when quite cold, pour it over the cutlets. Let them lie in the mixture twelve hours, turning them two or three times. When wanted, drain and dry them, egg and bread- crumb them, and broil over a clear fire until -they are thoroughly cooked. Serve in a hot dish, and pour half @ pint of sauce Robert over them. Pork, Cutting up and Salting (French method).—As soon as the pig is killed, do ‘not scald but singe it. To do this, put the carcase on a truss of straw, and set fire to it windward. Then after turning the pig, burn off any bristles. that are left with torches of burning straw. Broom the pig, wash it well with cold water, and scrape it thoroughly with a knife. Open it, and reserve the blood for a black pudding. Throw.the fry into cold water, and cleanse.the chitterlings. These must be used speedily. Let the pig hang for some ‘hours in an ait situation till it is cool and stiff. Halve it, and cut+it up into convenient-sized pieces, of from three to five pounds’ weight. The feet and tail, the tongue, nostril, brains, and ears can'be left unsalted, and cooked separately, and, if liked, a few roasting pieces also. To salt the pork, supposing it to weigh 200 pounds, make a powder by mixing thirty pounds of common salt, quarter of a pound of powdered mixed spice, and two ounces of ground pepper. ‘Rub each piece of pork with the powder. Put a layer of powder at the bottom of the salting- tub, pack in closely a layer of pork, and sprinkle the powdered salt and spice over it. Place on this another layer of pork, and repeat until the pan is full. Put salt thickly on the top, pour a pint of cold water over the whole to assist the salt in dissolving, and put on the wooden cover. The pork may remain in this pickle from four to six months, and should then be placed in a single layer on a wicker hurdle, and left to dry in a cool airy place until it is wanted. Bacon thus pickle? is the only meat ever tasted by large numbers of Frenchmen. Pork, Dangers of Eating (see Pork, Trichinatous). Pork, Fresh, Stewed.—Cut a spare-rib or any. fresh lean pork into chops.. Fry these in a little fat until they are lightly browned. Take them up, drain them, put them into a clean stewpan, and pour over them as much boiling water as will cover them. Let the liquid boil once more, then draw it to the POR ( 608 ) POR side, and simmer very gently until the chops ‘are done enough: Thicken the gravy with tlour and butter, season with pepper and salt; boil a few minutes longer, and serve the pork on a hot dish with the gravy poured round it. Time, four minutes to fry the pork; three- quarters of an hour to stew. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. : Pork, Griskin of.—A griskin of pork is. a loin from a large pig with the bacon cut off, and is unfortunately often sent to table dry and hard. In order to prevent this, put it into a stewpan with as much cold water as will cover it. Bring the water to the boil, take out the meat, remove the skin, and put it down to a clear fire. A short time before it is done enough, strew over it a tea-spoonful of pow- dered sage mixed with an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, and a little salt and pepper. Baste liberally before the powder is strewn over the meat, but not afterwards. Send some apple sauce and gravy to table with it. If the skin is left on it will require longer roasting. Time, for a joint weighing seven pounds, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 11d. per pound. Pork, Griskin of (as Dressed in the South of Europe).—In the Southern Penin- sula the griskin of pork is allowed to lie in clarét flavoured with. garlic for five or six days before it is dressed, being hung up to dry at intervals. At the end of that time it is roasted, and served with tomato sauce; or sweet herbs being sprinkled over it, it is wrapped in bay leaves, and stewed gently in the wine in which it was soaked, to which a slight flavouring of Seville orange-juice has'been added. It forms a peculiar and piquant dish, much liked by those who have acquired a taste for prepara- tions of the kind. Pork, Griskin of Roasted.— The gtiskin ‘is usually roasted. It should be put down to a clear fire, and basted constantly, and brown gravy and apple sauce should be sent to table with it. If liked, a tea-spoonful of powdered sage may be sprinkled over it a few minutes before it is taken down. given to cattle, or are used for distillation’ of | crn Ot $6. ep ene, Diet ae (ee ale spirits, or for making beer. If only slightly | oven. “Serve the potatoes in the dish. Time, half an hour or more to boil the potatoes, ten minutes to brown them. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for two persons. Potatoes, Mashed, Cod with (see Cod with Mashed Potatoes). —_ Potatoes, Mashed, with Onions.— Boil and dry the potatoes, and mash them ac- cording to the directions given above, and whilst mashing mix with them: two or three onions which have been boiled till soft and. finely minced. The quantity of onion used will of course be regulated by taste,,. Some cooks, when the flavour is very much liked, chop up a raw onjon, and mix it with the potatoes. Time, from half an hour to an hour to boil, POT ( 635 ) Pot the potatoes. .Probable cost, 1d. or 14d. per! pound, Sufficient, two pounds of potatoes for tour or five persons. i Potatoes, Mock New,.in Cream.— Wash and peel a number of old potatoes of a small size, and cut them down to the size of new potatoes. Boil ‘them in salt-and-water for eight or ten minutes, then pour off the liquid, cover with a cloth, and let them. steam by the side of the fire for ten minutes. Almost cover them with cream, sprinkle a little salt over them, and let them simmer very gently until they are quite done enough, but whole. Lift them out carefully with a spoon, pour the cream over them, and serve very hot. If preferred, white sauce may be used. instead of cream. ‘Time, half an hour. Probable cost of potatoes, 1d. or 14d. per pound. Allow half a dozen for each person. Potatoes Moulded with Parmesan. —Mash some potatoes till quite smooth, and bind them together with one or two well-beaten eggs. Put them into a dish, and shape them in a dome-like form high in the centre. Smooth the surface, and afterwards draw the back of a fork gently over it, and sprinkle upon it some finely-grated Parmesan. Put little. pieces of butter here and there upon it, and bake the potatoes till they are brightly browned. Serve very hot. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient, two pounds of ‘potatoes for four or five persons. Potatoes, New, Boiled.—Take freshly- dug new potatoes. Wash them well, and rub off the skin with a flannel or a coarse cloth. Throw them into boiling. salted. water, in which a sprig of mint may be put if the flavour is. not disliked, and let them simmer gently until. they are quite tender. Pour off the liquid, and let them stand by the side of the fire with the lid only half on the saucepan, till they are thoroughly dry. Put a slice of butter into a hot vegetable tureen, pile the potatoes over this, and serve very hot. New potatoes should. be cooked before they have been twenty- four hours out of the ground. Although agreeable to the taste, they are by no means so digestible as fully-grown tubers. ‘Time to boil, fifteen to thirty minutes, according to size.. Probable cost, 1d. to 14d. per pound. Sufficient; three pounds for six persons. Potatoes, New, Stewed in Butter.— Take new potatoes when they first come into season and are young and small. Rub off the skins with a flannel or coarse cloth, wash and therm well, and put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter-——four ounces will be enough for a good-sized dish. Let them steam gently until they are done enough, shaking‘ the saucepan every two or three minutes, that | they may be equally cooked. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over ‘them, and serve very hot. ‘Time-to stew, about‘half an hour. Pro-' pablé cost, when they first come into’ the mar- ket, 1s: per pound or moré. ‘Sufficient, three pounds'for a dish. aA ra Rae pe * Potatoes, Preserved.—Potatoes may be preserved ‘so .as to endure the longest voyages by thoroughly desiccating. them in an oven, oF © by steam heat. To facilitate the operation, the tubers, either raw or three-parts dressed, are usually first cut into dice three-quarters of an inch square. Potatoes, Rolled,—Take two pounds of boiled potatoes, dry and floury. Mash them well, flavour with grated nutmeg, and beat them up with an ounce of clarified butter, a table-spoonful of sherry, and the yolks of two eggs. Make the mixture into a roll, brush it over with beaten egg, sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs equally over it, and bake in a well-buttered dish till it is nicely browned all over. Serve on a hot dish, and pour over it a sauce prepared as follows:—Beat the yolk of an egg, and mix with it two glassfuls of light wine. Add a little sugar and grated nutmeg, and whisk the mixture over the fire until it. begins to thicken. Take it off at once, and, serve immediately. Time, two or three minutes to boil the sauce; about half an hour to brown the roll. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons... § Potatoes, Savoury (a German recipe).— Half-boil six or eight large potatoes, and’ cut them into slices’ a quarter of an inch thick. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, or, if preferred, substitute two ounces of fat bacon ‘cut into small pieces for the butter. Add a -minced onion, and let it stew until tender. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour into the butter, and stir until it is smooth and brown; then pour in gradually as much boilizig stock or water as will make the sauce of the consistency of cream. Add a pinch of thyme and mar- joram, a large table-spoonful of chopped parsley, some pepper and salt, and a little grated nut-’ meg, a bay-leaf, or any other flavouring. Let the sauce simmer a few minutes, put in the sliced potatces,and when they are tender without being broken, turn the whole upon. a dish, and serve very hot. If liked, the butter and flour may be kept from browning, and a little milk may be used to. thin the sauce. Time, one hour or more. ‘Probable cost,: 1s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Potatoes, Scalloped.—Mash some pota- toes in the usual way with butter and a little hot milk. . Butter some scallop-shells or patty- pans, fill them with the mashed potatoes, make them smooth on the top, and then draw the back of a fork uver them. Sprinkle finely-. grated bread-crumbs on the top, and lay small ieces of butter here and there upon them. ut the potatoes.in a Dutch oven before the fire till they are brightly browned, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin in the scallop-shells. Time, about a quarter of an hour to brown the potatoes. Probable cost, 1d. or 14d. per pound. Sufficient, one scallop-shell i each person. | 5 ee é an Gayiieng: DEA oe eras. Saye Potatoes, Sliced (German way of | cooking).—-Dissolve two ounces of butter in. a saucepan, mix one ounce of flour smoothly with it, and stir the paste until it is lightly ] browned. Add a tablerspoonful of vinegar, . a small lump of sugar,-a, quarter of a pint of, hot stock, and a bay-leaf, and boil the . sauce until it:is of the consistency of cream,.. . POT ( 636 ) POT Slice four or five potatoes, throw them into the sauce, and let them simmer gently until tender. Serve immediately. If liked, the sauce can be flavoured with onion. Time to simmer the potatoes, ten minutes. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for two persons. Potatoes, Sliced, with Parmesan.— Cut some firm boiled potatoes into slices. Place them in layers in a dish, and pour over each layer a small-portion of white sauce. Put a little of the sauce smoothly over the top, and sprinkle over this some grated Parmesan cheese and bread-crumbs so as to cover it entirely. Drop a little butter here and there on the top, put the dish in a well-heated oven until the potatoes are warmed through, and then serve. Cold potatoes may be warmed in this way, and they will be very good if the Parmesan is omitted and cream used instead of white sauce. Time to heat the potatoes, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. for a moderate-sized dish. Potatoes, Steamed.—Wash and pare some fully-grown potatoes, and as they are done throw them into cold water. Drain them, put them into a steamer, and place this over a saucepan of boiling water. Cover closely, and keep the water boiling until they are done enough. When a fork will pierce them easily they are ready. Shake the steamer over a bowl for a minute to give the potatoes a flowery appearance, and serve very hot. In order to steam potatoes it is, of course, necessary that the steamer should be made to fit the sauce- pan which contains the boiling water. Time, twenty to forty minutes, according to the quality of the potatoes. Probable cost, 1d. to 14d. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. Potatoes, Stewed (a la Francaise).— Wash eight or nine large potatoes in two or three waters. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with barely enough water to cover them, and let them simmer gently till they are half cooked. Peel them, and let them lie till they are almost cold; then cut them into slices half an inch thick. Melt an ounce of fresh butter in a saucepan, and mix half an ounce of flour smoothly with it. Add gradually three-quarters of a pint of boiling stock, four small onions finely shred, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer the sauce gently until the onion is quite soft. Put in the sliced potatoes, let them simmer gently until done enough, and serve in a hot dish with the sauce poured over them. Time to simmer the potatoes by themselves, a few minutes; in the sauce, ten minutes. Probable cost, 9d. Sutficient for four or five persons. Potatoes, Storing of.—If kept in a cool dry place, potatoes will keep good for many months, and as they are generally high in price during the winter months, it is a good plan to buy 4 quantity when they are cheap for use when they are dear. When spring comes they will begin to put out shoots, especially if they are kept in a damp place, and this will make them unfit for food. To prevent- this, some cooks dip them for a moment into boiling water before storing them. For domestic use, the best way to preserve them is to buy them with the earth still clinging around them, as they are dug out of the ground, to lay them upon straw in a dry, cool cellar, and in winter time to cover them with straw to keep the frost from them. They should be looked over care- fully before they are put way, and if there are any rotten ones amongst the number they should be removed, or they may contaminate the rest. When a large quantity are to be pre- served, a deep hole should be dug in the ground and lined with straw, the potatoes put into it, and covered with straw. Potatoes, Stuffed.—Hollow out large potatoes, and fill them with mealy potatoes beaten to a paste in a mortar with chopped parsley, chives and shallot, butter, fat bacon cut into dice, pepper and salt. Butter the insides of the potatoes, and nearly fill them with the above paste; put them on a buttered tin, and bake in a Dutch oven. When browned, serve. Potatoes, Substitutes for. — Ozalis Crenata, introduced from South America as a substitute for potatoes, which it resembles, may be dressed as follows :—Set the roots on-the fire in boiling water, and when soft pour off the water, and place some hot cinders near the lid of the saucepan, which will thoroughly dry the roots, and render them mealy. The stalks of the plant may be peeled, and used like those of rhubarb—in tarts. The Cerfeuil Bulbeux is another substitute for the potato. It is said to surpass that vegetable in nutritive qualities, containing more starch and fatty matter. It has a very agreeable flavour. Another substi- tute is a gigantic yam, a yard in length, from Rio Janeiro and New Zealand. Potatoes, Varieties of.—The varieties of the potato that are cultivated are very numerous, and new ones are constantly appearing. The soil in which the potato is grown will be found to have a considerable influence in determining the quality of the potato; and almost every district has its peculiar varieties, their names being quite arbitrary or local. Most kinds are vastly improved by removal to a different ‘locality; hence growers rarely use for many years in succession their own tubers for seed, but continually renew the stock by purchases from another district. One tuber will produce as many separate plants as it has eyes, but a piece of the potato must be planted with each eyeor shoot. ‘The many varieties differ in form, size, colour, and time of ripening; some are more prolific than others, some are naturally waxy and watery, and some are mealy, which is an unfailing characteristic of the best kinds. ._ Potatoes with Sauce.—Put some butter in a stewpan, thicken it with flour, and fry Some onions in it till they become brown. Pour over them some stock broth, and season with salt and Pepper, nutmeg, and vinegar. When the onions are sufficiently. cooked, add some cooked potatoes; let them remain unti) thoy are-hot, and then serve immediately. POT ( 687 ) POT Potatoes with Sauce Piquant.— ‘Wash, pare, and half boil some large potatoes. Drain them, and when nearly cold cut them inte slices a quarter of an inch thick. Cut two or three rashers of fat bacon into small pieces, place them in a stewpan with a finely- minced onion, and let them steam until the onion is tender. Add a little pepper and salt, a lump of sugar, a bay-leaf, and as much stock or water as will barely cover the sliced potatoes. This sauce should be thickened with flour to make it of the consistency of thick cream, and as much vinegar may be added as will make it agreeably acid. Let the sauce boil a few minutes, put in the sliced potatoes, and let them simmer till they are tender without being broken. Serve very hot, with the sauce poured over them. ‘Time, an hour or more. Probable cost, potatoes, Id.or 2d. per pound. Sufficient, six large potatoes for two or three persons. Potatoes with White Sauce.—Take some dressed potatoes, cut them in pieces, pour white sauce (see‘White Sauce) over them, and serve. Potatoes with White Sauce (another way).— Thicken some butter with flour in a stewpan, add some milk or cream, with chives and parsley cut small, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and boil these ingredients to the consistence of sauce. When ready, put in some cooked potatoes cut in slices, let them remain till hot through, and serve. Pot-au-feu.—This is a common dish in France, and is to be met with in almost every household. ‘The foundation is beef, and if other meats are used they are reserved to make their appearance under different disguises. The parts most generally used are the leg, shoulders, and ribs. The upper parts of the leg are, however, the best for the purpose. The bouillon or broth is flavoured with vege- tables that are boiled in it, and these are served with the bouilli or boiled beef. In making pot-au-feu it must be remembered that the stewpan must be scrupulously clean. It is usually made of tinned metal or earthenware. The meat should be quite fresh, should be simmered very gently but continuously, and skimmed with great care. The fire should be steady but slow, and should be mended very gently when necessary, that the ebullition may net be increased. The stewpan should not be very closely covered, or the bouillon will not be clear—and the true French bouillon is clear, limpid, of a golden-amber colour, and exhales pleasantly the combined aromas of the various meats and vegetables. The latter should be added after the meat has simmered half the time, and they should not be allowed to remain in the pan after they are done enough, or they will absorb some of itsflavour. A little caramel or burnt sugar may be used to colour the ; bouillon, and this should be added the last thing. Some prefer the bouillon the first day, and some the second. To preserve it, it should be strained, put into a clean earthenware pan without cover, kept in a cool place, and boiled up every day in summer and every three days in winter. It should be remembered that if either turnips or garlic are used the. broth will not keep so well as if they were omitted. It is the French custom to put small slices of toasted bread into the soup tureen, to pour the bouillon over them, and to let these soak a few minutes before serving. The follow- ing are the detailed instructions for making pot-au-feu:—Take four pounds of fresh beef and any bones that may be at hand. Bind the meat to keep it in shape, and break the bones into small pieces. Put the bones into the stew- pan, lay the meat upon them, pour over them three quarts of cold water, and add a tea-spoon- ful of salt. Heat the liquid slowly and care- fully, removing the scum as it rises. Keep adding a table-spoonful of cold water to assist its doing so, and skim most particularly until the soup is quite clear. When it is thoroughly skimmed, cover tightly to keep out the dust, and let it simmer very gently for two hours. Add an onion stuck with three cloves, « bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, five or six outer sticks of celery, a leek, two carrots,a bay-leaf, a turnip, and a tea-spoonful of whole pepper. The vegetables should be added gradually, that the temperature of the soup may not be.lowered by them. Let the vegetables simmer gently and ‘continuously for two hours longer, or until they are tender. Add a little more pepper and salt if required, and serve the bouillon in a tureen; and as a remove, the bouilliand the vegetables. Time, five hours from the time the liquid has once boiled. Probable cost, beef, 11d. per pound. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons, Pot-au-Feu (another way).—Make up the fire so that it will burn for three hours without putting on coals; taking care that it is not too fierce. For the little pot-au-feu (enough for four persons), take a pound and half of meat—for choice let it be the rump. or round of beef—ten pennyweights of bone (about the quantity which is sent with the meat), four quarts of water filtered, two pennyweights of salt dry and well powdered, ten pennyweights. of carrots, ten pennyweights of onions, fifteen pennyweights of leeks, one pennyweight of celery, one pennyweight of cloves, ten penny- weights of turnips, and two pennyweights of parsnips. The cloves should be stuck in one of the onions. By pennyweight, it should be explained, is here meant the weight of an or- dinary bronze penny, which is the third part of an ounce. For the greater pot-au-feu (for high days and holidays), take three pounds of meat, one pound of bones, six quarts of water, four pennyweights of salt, twenty pennyweights of carrots, twenty pennyweights of onions, thirty pennyweights of leeks, three pennyweights of celery, two pennyweights of cloves, twenty pennyweights of turnips, and four penny- weights of parsnips. Be careful that the beef is fresh. Stale and dry meat makes bad soup and worse pot-au-feu. Tie up the meat with a tape to keep it in shape. Smash the bones. Put the bones in the saucepan first, then the meat, then the water, cold. Put on the fire, add the salt, and make the pot boil. As soon as the scum begins to rise, throw in half a pint of cold water for the great, and a gill for the small pot-au-feu, and skim with a perforated spoon. Do both three times. Wipe POT the edges ‘of the pot ‘carefully; then’'add the: vegetables as mentioned above, and as- soon as the pot begins to boil put it on the ‘side of the fire, and simmer very’ gently—five hours for the great pot-au-feu, and three hours for the ‘smaller. Never let the boiling be rapid; never ‘Jet it fail to' simmer. Take the meat out, and place it on a dish.’ Taste the soup, and if not salt enough, add a little salt when in the tureen. Skim off the fat, ‘strain’ off the soup, add:a little burnt sugar'to colour it five minutes before ‘serving, and sénd up the meat with the vegetables arranged round it.’ This soup will serve as the stock for almost any soup that'is desired. ae : Car, Pot-au-Feu (another way).—“ The pot-au- feu,” says Mr. Buckmaster, ‘is an economical and wholesome dish, and is well-suited either to a large or small family. It is the standard dish of ‘all. classes in France, and the-origin of beef stock.” Mr. Buckmaster’s recipe for making pot-au-feu and bouillon is as follows :—Take a ‘piece of fresh beef weighing six pounds, and about..a pound of bones. Tie up the, meat neatly with tape or string. Put all into a saucepan holding six .quarts, fill it up with enough rain-water to cover well both meat and bones,.and set the pan on the fire. Carefully remove the scum as it rises, and do not let the liquid boil.. At intervals add small quantities of cold water, which will, have the effect of checking the; ebullition and. helping the scum to rise. When the scum is all removed, put in an ounce of salt,.a salt-spoonful, of; whole pepper and allspice,.one onion stuck with three cloves, one leek, three carrots of average size cut in two-inch lengths, two turnips of average size each cut in four, and.a bouquet garni (bunch of herbs). ‘These vegetables should not. be put in.all at once, but at{ short intervals, so as to keep the contents of the saucepan.at the same temperature. Skim now for the last time, and set the pan by the side of the fire to simmer gently for three or four-hours. According to the, season all or some of the following, vege- tables may now be added:—A small head of celery cut in two-inch lengths, and a couple of parsnips. When.about to serve, strain the broth, skim off the fat, andjadd a small tea- spoonful of pounded loaf sugar.. Make the broth boiling hot, and pour it into the soup tureen over small slices of toasted. bread, adding, according to taste, a portion of the vegetables cut into thin slices. Remove the tape or string, and serve the meat, garnishing with mashed, potatoes, spinach, or other vege- tables in season. Do not be too liberal in the use of pepper and. salt; these can be added according to taste after the soup is ready. _Pot-au-Feu, French, Analysis of the.—In the housekeeping of the’ French artisan the broth-pot yields the most substan- tial nourishment; the wife attending to it, yet without possessing the slightest notion of chemistry : she places the meat in the pot, with about. two quarts of water to three pounds of beef, at the corner of the fire, where, slowly becoming hot, the heat swells the muscular fibres of the beef, dissolving the gelatinous substances therein contained. By these means (688 ) POT ——— the scum gradually wises{ the osmazome i(which -is the most: savoury part of the meat) gently ‘adds its 'unction to the broth, and the. albunien ‘(which is the muscular part producing: the -scum);’. exuding itself, rises .to' thé surface. Thus by the simple process of having conducted her broth-pot:.by slow degrees, a relishing and nutritious broth has! been obtained, and a piece tof meat tender and palatable :also.:; Such are -the advantages of this truly chemical operation ; whilst. in inconsiderately placing: the pot over too quick’ a-fire, the boiling is precipitated, the ‘albumen: coagulates and hardens; the water:pre- -vented-from penetrating the meat, the osmazome is hindered from disengaging itself, and) thus nothing is obtained: but.a piece of meat hard in the eating, and: a broth without taste or succu- lence; ‘therefore the greatest: masters . direct those who are charged. with the:putting on of the -stock-pots, to skim them: slowly over a gentle fire, adding at intervals. a little.eold water, that the seum may rse,more copiously ; these are the useful results. that practice daily evinces to even the least skilful ‘of the profes- sion. It is sufficient to possess but a small share of sense to’ become quickly aware of these first principles‘ of aliméntary chemistry. Pot-au-Feu, au Bain-Marie.—Put in an ‘earthen pot three'pounds of ' beef cut ' in slices, two ‘pounds’ of fillet’ of veal, a loin of mutton, removing all'the fat, a fowl coloured by roasting, and five pints of cold water. Add two ‘carrots, a turnip, three leeks, and half a heail’' of celery tied 'in' a ‘bundle, and a clove stuck in an onion. Cover: the pot closely, and ‘surround it with a rim of paste made rather soft and of flour and-water only. The paste should hermetically close the cover that the steam may be retained within. Place the :pot ‘within a‘stewpan four inches more in width. containing water, and let- it ‘boil uninter« ruptedly for six hours. Bé careful to add:boil- ing water at intervals to the bain-marie, the ebullition of which will thus always remain the same. At the'‘end of the six hours remove the paste from the cover, pass the broth through a silk sieve, and use it for soups and .consommés. This is also a stock for a family, and nourishing for persons whose stomavhs are impAited “by fatigue, and it may ‘be’ male more refreshilde if, in makihg, two lettuces, a handful of sorrel and chervil, picked, washed, ‘and ‘tied: ini a’ bundle, are added. Be a Beatty oy tar Pot-au-Feu, Household (# restorative broth).Put in an‘ earthen pot sufficiently large four pounds" -of béef "sliced,Ja/- good knuckle of veal; and a'fowl half roasted. Add nearly three quarts of: cold’ water,-set it at the side of the fire, and-skim gently. Add salt, two carrots, a turitip, three leeks, and half a head of celery tied: in a bundle; and a clove stuck in an onion, and tet it boil Slowly for five hours without ceasing. Then take wp the roots and trim them néatly; taste the broth, using but little salt to flavour the soup; skim, add the roots to if, and serve. This is a healthy soup, and good in families where the nourish- ment of children isto be attended to. ‘poe \(°689-) ‘Bor. - Pot-herbs.—Ono'is inclined'to inte? from the name pot-herbs that they play an impor- tant part in cookery, and oecupy the ‘place’ of leading ‘articles of diet... Tt is not 0, how- ever; pot-herbs are rather those which’ aré of secondary importance, and, of value’ chiefly for flavouring, as parsley, horseradish, Indian cress, &, potion ies Borage-—A: native or_ naturalised :in some parts of this country. “Its young leaves and tender tops ‘afford a boiled dish in summer and autumn; they are also sometimes used as salads. Chervil.—An annual plant, a native of various Continental regions, and sometimes met with naturalised in English gardens. A varioty of chervil cultivated In Paris has beautiful frizzed leayes. The tender leaves are made use of in salads and soups; those of the ‘curléd variety are also used in garnishing. ‘ Diul.—A hardy biennial plant, possessing powerful aromatic properties. By means of its leaves one may heighten the relish of some vegetable pickles, particularly cucumbers. The leaves are also employed in salads and soups, Fennel,—A. perennial plant, naturalised in this. country, and Jong. an inmate of our gardens., Its tender stalks are used in salads ; the leaves boiled form an ingredient in fish sauces; they are used raw to garnish several dishes.. ‘There is » variety of fennel called inochio, the blanched stalks of which are eaten with oil, vinegar, and pepper, as a cold. salad ; sometimes they are put into soup... . Horseradish.—A. perennial plant, found by the Side of ditches, and in marshy places in some parts of England. Its cultivation in gardens chas long:.been attended to. The root of the horseradish, when scraped into threads, is a popular accompaniment to roast beef.. It is also employed in sauces,.and in winter salads. . Indian Cress.—The Indian cress or nastur- tium is a native of Peru, and a hardy annual. In its native clime it stands several seasons, ‘but with: us—our winter being too sévere—it has to he treated as an annualiplant, and be sown every. year...Its flowers and young leaves are often eaten.in: salads; they have a, warm taste like the common cress. The flowers are also used as a igarnishing for. dishes. The berries, when gathered green and pickled, form an excellent substitute for capers. ee td Marigold—The marigold, or_ pot marigold, has been known in this country since 1573.’ It is a native of France’and Spain, and an annual plant. In some districts of England the flowers are employed in broths and soups. A Parsley.—A. hardy biennial introduced into this country in 1548. It is a native of Sar- dinia. It is now so common with us as to be naturalised in several districts both in England and Scotland.’ “It may be right to notice,” says Neill, “that ‘the poisonous plant called fool’s parsley (Aithusa Cynassium), a common weed in rich garden soils, has been sometimes mistaken for common parsley. They are easily distinguished: the leaves of fool’s ‘parsley are of a‘darker green, of a different shape, and instead of the peculiar parsley smell, have, when. bruised, a disagreeable odour.’ When the flower-stem of the fool’s parsley appears, the plant is at once distinguished by what is ‘ vulgarly called its bedird—threv long péndant leatiets of the involictum: The ‘timid may shun all risk of mistake by, ciltivating’ only the, curled ‘variety. “This last, it may be rémarked, makes the prettiest garnish.” ‘The ‘leaves of the common plain-leaved parsley and the curled-leaved are used as pot-herbs all the “year round; they are also’ cae for garnishing. ‘The broad-leaved sort has a large white ‘carrot- ‘shaped root, which’ is drawn in autumn ‘and winter, like parsnips, for the'table. oe Purslane.— An annual plant, a native of “America. It was introduced into England in 1652. The young shoots and succulent leaves of the purslane are considered cboling, and are used in spring and summer in salads, and also as pot-herbs and. pickles... Purglang. is net so much in demand now as it used to be. a ' Larragon.—A perennial plant, a native of Siberia, cultivated in England'since the middle of the sixteenth century. The smell of tar-- ragon is fragrant, and it has an aromatic taste. The leaves and tender tips form an ingredient in pickles. A pleasant fish sauice is made by simply infusing the plant in vinegar. “In France it, is employed, on account of | its agreeable pungency, to correct’ the coldness of salad, herbs; it.is also put in soups and ‘other compositions.” “e The following directions for drying and preserving pot-herbs are from the pen of a celebrated herbalist ;—“It is very important to those who are not, in the constant habit of attending the markets to know when the various seasons commence for purchasing sweet herbs. All vegetables are in the highest state of perfection, and fullest of juice and flavour, just before they begin to flower; the first and last crop have neither the fine flavour nor the perfume of those. which are gathered, in the height of the season; that is, when the greater part of the crop of each species is ripe, Take care that they are gathered on a dry day, by which means they will have a better colour when dried. Cleanse your herbs well from dirt and dust, cut off the. roots; separate the .bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the heat of a stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, in such quantities at a time that the process may be speedily finished, #.c., ‘ kill ’em quick,’ says a great botanist; by this means their flavour will be best preserved.. There can be no doubt of the propriety of drying herbs, &c., hastily by the aid of artificial heat, rather than by. the heat of the.sun. The only caution requisite is to avoid. burning, and of this a sufficient test is afforded by the preserva- tion of the colour.” The common custom: is, when they are perfectly dried, to. put them into bags, and hang them up to the roof of a kitchen, or lay them in a dry place; but.a better method is to pick off the leaves from the stalks, to rub them over a hair sieve so as to extraet-the dust which generally adheres to them, particularly those which are purchased with the roots on, and, to put them in wide-mouthed bottles (taking. care that. they are quite dry), and if well stopped the aroma of the herb will be preserved. Another plan is to infuse the herbs in as much spirit, vinegar, or wine, as will cover them, and after ten or twelve days to POT -( 640 ) POU strain off, repeating it with the strained liquor over fresh Herbs if it is wished to have the essence very strong. This impregnates soups or sauces with the flavour without any appear- ance of the herb, and it will keep good for years, whilst « very small quantity suffices. The proper season for gathering the following herbs to be preserved in either mode or in both, is as follows :—Basil, from the middle of August to middle of September ; knotted mar- joram, -from beginning of July to end of ‘August; savory, the same; thyme, throughout June and July; mint, July; sage, August and September; tarragon and burnet, from July and August; chervil, parsley, and fennel, May, June, and July. Pot, Pepper (see Pepper Pot). Potted Dishes.—Recipes for the follow- ing potted dishes will be found under their respective headings :— ANCHOVIES Mutton AvusTRALIAN Mzat Neat’s FEET Brrr Neat’s TonevE CHEESE OxTOLANS CyickEN AND Han Ox CHEEK Cras Ox ToncuEs CrayFIisH Ox Toncvr, WHOLE Eris PartTRIDGE Ecos PueasanT Fow. Povu.try Fow. with Ham Prawns Gritsz or Trout Prawns, Surimps, GrovusE or Cray-Fisu Ham Rassir Ham anp Fown SaLMon Hare Surimps Hereinces SyIPEs LamMPrey Toncur Larxs Trout LonsteR VEAL MackEREL Potted Head.—Cleanse perfectly half a bullock’s head and acow-heel. Put them into lukewarm water, and let them soak for two or three hours. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan; cover with cold water, and let them simmer very gently until the meat is quite tender. - Pour the liquid into a separate bowl, and set it in a cool place. Let the meat cool, remove from it the bones, skin, and sinew, and cut it into very small pieces. Skim the fat from the top of the broth, strain the liquor, and put it into a jar, with the minced meat and a seasoning of salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Cover closely, and let it bake in a gentle oven for three hours longer. Pour it mto small moulds, and let these stand in a cool place. When quite cold the preparation will form a jelly, and it should be turned out for use, and served cold. Garnish the dish with sprigs of fresh parsley. If the jelly is so stiff that there is a difficulty in turning it out, plunge the mould into boiling water for a second or two, and it will come away easily. Time, about three hours to simmer the head from the time the water reaches the boiling- point. Probable cost of bullock’s head, 8d. per pound, Potted Meat.—To pot meat is one way of preserving it longer than would be possible in the ordinary way ; and in potting it this is done by pounding the flesh to a pulp in a mortar, mixing it with salt and spices, pressing it into a jar, and covering it with a thick coat of melted butter or lard to exclude the air. The jar is then tied down tightly with bladder or oiled paper. The remains of any tender, well- roasted meat will answer just as well for pot- ting as if it were dressed for the purpose; but care should be taken first that the meat is cut through, and that every little piece of skin, fat, sinew, and gristle is removed, and after- wards that it is pounded so thoroughly that not a single lump is to be found init. Care is re- quired, too, in seasoning it, and it is better to add the spices gradually, and to keep tasting the meat until it satisfies the palate—for additional spice can be put in when it cannot be taken out. At the same time potted meat is worth nothing unless it is pleasantly flavoured, and it is almost universally liked rather highly seasoned. ‘The meat; should be cold before it is cut, and the butter should be cool before it is poured upon the paste. The gravy, too, should be drained thoroughly from the meat, or it will not keep. Dry and salted meats will need more butter than fresh white ones. Potting.—By potting is generally meant the operation of preserving edible substances in a state for immediate use in small pots or jars. In the cage of animal food, the method of pro- ceeding is first to dress the substance well, carefully deprive it of bones, skin, sinews, &c., and then mince it. After being minced it is pounded in a clean polished marble or iron mortar, together with a little butter and some cayenne pepper, or other suitable sauce or spice, until it forms a perfectly smooth paste. This is pressed into pots, which are about two- thirds filled. Clarified butter is then poured in, to the depth of about an eighteenth of an inch; the pots are closed over and stored in a cool place. In this state their contents can be preserved for a considerable time. Potted meats, fish, &c., are commonly sold in the shops. They are all intended for relishes, and are spread upon bread just like butter. For een recipes for potted meats, &c., see Potted ‘ishes. Pot Top Liquor.—The fat should always be skimmed carefully from the top of soups and sauces, and this fat may be used for fryi purposes, and will be found excellent. It should, of course, be clarified: to accomplish this it should be boiled gently with a little water, then strained through a gravy strainer. Or it may be poured into a bowl with the water, and when it is cold it will be found that the impurities have sunk to the bottom of the cake of fat, and may easily be removed. It is most essential to the excellence of soup that it should be well skimmed, and it is a good plan to throw a table-spoonful of cold water into the liquor as it approaches the boiling-point, to assist the scum in rising. Poulac Ketchup.—Take a quart of ri elderberries, measured after they have bean POU ( 641 ) POU stripped from the stalks. Put them into a deep jar, and pour over them a pint and a half of boiling vinegar. Place the jar in a cool oven overnight. Next day strain the liquid without squeezing’ the fruit, and put it into a. saucepan with an inch of whole ginger, two blades of mace, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of cloves, and eight shallots. Boil all together for five or six minutes, then pour the ketchup out, and when cold, put it with the spice into small bottles, which must be corked and sealed securely. If liked, half a pound of boned an- chovies may be put into the liquid with the spices, and stirred gently until they have dis- solved. Probable cost, uncertain, elderberries being seldom offered for sale. , Sufficient for four half-pint bottles. Poularde.—This is simply another name for capon; it may be dressed according to the recipe given for turkeys. Poularde (& la Royal).—Bone the bird. Unless the cook is experienced, this had better be done by the poulterer. Fill it with mush- room forcemeat, which will be improved by the addition of a boiled sweetbread. Truss it securely, cover it with thin slices of fat bacon, put oiled paper over this, and tie it on with twine. Put it down at some distance from a clear fire until it is heated through, then draw it nearer, and baste liberally until it is done enough. About a quarter of an hour before it is taken down remove the paper and bacon, and let the bird brown nicely. Dish it on a purée of chestnuts prepared as follows :—Peel the outer rind from half a hundred sound Spanish chestnuts; throw them into a sauce- pan of hot water, and let them remain upon the fire until the inner brown skin can be easily removed. Pour the water from them, throw them into cold water, peel, and wipe them with a soft cloth. Put them into a stew- pan with a pint of cold milk, and let them simmer very gently until they are quite soft. Drain them, and rub them while hot through a wire sieve. Put the pulp into a stewpan with two table-spoonfuls of milk or cream, a slice of butter, a lump of sugar, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the purée over the fire till it is quite hot, and it is ready for the capon. Time to roast the capon, about an hour and a quarter ; to boil the chestnuts, varying with the quality. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for five or six persons. Poularde (i Stamboul).—Draw the bird carefully, and wipe it out with a damp cloth. Boil half a pound of best rice till it is tender, then drain the liquid from it, and lay it on a sieve before the fire to swell. Moisten part of it slightly with a little highly-seasoned veal stock, and fill the bird with it. Truss it firmly and securely, cover with thin slices of bacon, fasten oiled paper over this, and lay the bird. down to a clear fire. Baste liberally, and a quarter of an hour before it is taken down remove the paper and bacon, and let the bird: brown nicely. Moisten the remainder of the rice with veal stock, place it on a hot dish, and lay the capon upon it. Garnish the dish with 41—N.5.- slices of lemon, or fresh barberries if they can be had. Probable cost, variable. Sufficient for. five or six persons. Poularde, Galantine of (an excellent supper ee .—This dish is always served: cold. Split a poularde up the back, and bone it with- out injuring the skin. If the cook is not ex- perienced in the art of boning poultry, this had better be done by the poulterer. Lay it flat upon the table breast downwards, and season with pepper, salt, and aromatic spices. Spread on it a layer an inch thick either of nicely- seasoned sausage-meat or of good forcemeat, and lay on this long slices of cold boiled tongue or ham, and a few small black truffles, if these are obtainable. Repeat these layers until the galan- tine is sufficiently filled up. Sew it up securely with twine, as nearly as possible in its original form, roll it lightly in an oiled cloth, and fasten the ends with string. Lay the bones and any trimmings of meat that may be at hand into a stewpan. If there are none, a calf’s foot must be used. Lay the fowl upon these, and add a large onion stuck with one clove, a bunch. of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a carrot, and as much good veal stock as will barely cover the fowl. Cover closely, and let it stew gently until done enough. Let it remain in the stock until it is partially cold. Take it up, and having strained the gravy, reduce it quickly to a jelly, and clarify it (see Jelly, To Clarify). Part of this jelly may be used to glaze the galan- tine, and a little isinglass may be dissolved in it to stiffen it. Let it remain until quite cold, then remove the cloth, take out the stitches, and glaze the poularde. When the jelly is quite stiff, cut it into cubes or diamonds, and use it for garnishing the dish. Time to stew the galantine, one hour and three-quarters, or two hours if very large. Probable cost, vary- ing with the ingredients. Sufficient for a supper dish. Poularde Raised Pie.— Make three pounds of good forcemeat. This may be made either with equal parts of fillet of veal and fat bacon freed from skin and gristle, chopped, powdered, and nicely seasoned; or with a pound and a half of fillet of veal, a pound of fresh beef suet, six ounces of panada (see pes and four eggs. Whatever ingredients are used, however, care must be taken to pound them thoroughly, first separately and afterwards to- gether, and to add the seasoning gradually so that the forcemeat may be agreeably flavoured. For ordinary tastes, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper and half a tea-spoonful of nutmeg will be sufficient for this quantity of forcemeat. The amount of salt used will depend upon the quality of the bacon. Wash a pound of truffles perfectly clean. Wipe and pare them, then cut them into thin slices. Line a mould or shapea pie large enough to hold the poularde and the forcemeat (see Paste for Raised Pies). Spread at the bottom of it a layer of forcemeat and some of the slices of truffle. Split a poularde down the back, and take out the bones without injuring the skin. If. more convenient, this may be done by the poulterer. Lay it, breast downwards upon the board. Season the inside with pepper, salt, and spices, and spread on it,a POU: ( 642 ) POU layer of forcemeat half an inch in thickness. Put some slices of truffles on this, and then another layer of forcemeat. Roll the poularde over, make the skin meet at the back, and shape it to fit the mould. Lay it breast: uppermost on the forcemeat in the pie. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it, lay on it,some slices of truffle, and cover with the remainder of the forcemeat. Lay on the top some thin slices of fat bacon, put on the lid, press it down, and pinch the edges together; brush over with egg, and ornament it; make a small hole witha knife in the centre, tie a band of buttered paper round the: pie, and bake in a moderate oven. In order to ascertain when it is sufficiently baked, pierce it to the centre with a knife or skewer, and if it is tender throughout it is done. Let it cool for half an hour, then pour into it, through the hole at the top, a quarter of a pint of savoury jelly reduced to gravy. This jelly may be made by stewing the bones and trimmings of the bird and of the meat, sea- soning the liquid nicely, and dissolving in it a little isinglass. ._ When quite cold, serve the pie on a napkin, garnish it with parsley, and carve it in slices the breadth of the..pie and about the third of an inch thick. If liked, the.truffles may be omitted, and slices of veal and bacon used in their place. Time to bake, two hours. Sufficient for a good-sized pie. Poularde with Rice.— Wash half a peund of. best Carolina rice in several waters. Pluck and draw carefully a fine capon, and truss it for boiling. Put it into an oval’ stewpan with the rice which has been well drained, an onion stuck with two cloves, and as much nicely-flavoured broth as will cover the fowl. Simmer gently for an hour and a half; strain ‘the gravy, and if it is not sufficiently re- duced set aside part of it, and use only as much as is required for sauce for the fowl. Skim the fat from the top. Put the rice upon the dish, lay the fowl upon it, and pour ‘the sauce over all. This dish will be improved if the sauce is thickened with flour, and made to look white by the addition of a little cream or new milk, but this will add to the expense. A small quantity only of sauce must be poured over the fowl or its appearance will be spoilt. Even without, the cream this is a pleasing dish, and it is inexpensive and wholesome. Time to simmer the fowl, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s. to 5s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Poulet &-la Marengo.—Cut up a large fowl: into neat joints. Put these side by side into a stewpan with a little pepper and salt, a piece of garlic the size of a pea, two shallots, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and four table-spoonfuls of salad-oil.. Move them about until they are nicely. browned. Lift them out, and keep them hot. Dredge an ounce of flour into the oil, and stir until it is quite smooth. Add a pint of nicely-flavoured: stock, and stir the sauce over the fire until it is sufficiently thick to coat the spoon, remem- bering ot to skim the fat from the sauce. Put in the pieces of chicken, and let them get quite hot; but the sauce must not boil after they are added. Serve on a hot dish, and strain the sauce over the pieces of chicken. | Garnish with fried bread and eggs fried in oil. Time to fry ‘the chicken in the oil, half an hour. Probable cost of chicken, 2s, 6d. to 3s, 6d, Sufficient for two persons, x Poulet Blane.—Pluck and draw carefully a tender young fowl of good size, and truss it firmly for boiling. Put it into a stewpan with four ounces of butter melted, and turn if over two or three times. Lift it out, and mix smoothly with the butter two table-spoonfuls of flour and as much weak veal stock as will nearly cover the bird. Put in the fowl, and with it half a dozen small onions, a dozen fresh mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leat, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a little pepper and salt. Let it simmer gently until it is done enough. Lift it out, and keep it hot for a few minutes. As quickly as possible strain. the gravy, mix with it the well-beaten yolk of an ege, and stir over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken, but it must not boil, or it will curdle. Serve it poured over the fowl, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Time to boi! the fowl, one hour and three-quarters or two hours, according to size. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Poulet en Cdtelettes.—Chicken cutlets may either be made of the legs only of three or four fowls, the superior parts of which have been used in other ways, or a fresh chicken may be divided into cutlets. When the legs }only are used, cut out the thigh-bone, and leave the drumstick untouched. Cover the joints with slices of fat bacon, and stew in nicely-seasoned stock until they are quite tender. Lift them out, put them between two dishes with a weight over them, and let them get quite cold. Trim them neatly, and rub them with a savoury powder made of a tea- spoonful of salt, a pinch. of cayenne, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of ‘powdered mace, and the eighth of a small nutmeg grated. Dip them in beaten egg and then into, bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they. are lightly browned. These cutlets may either be served without sauce, with the juice of a lemon squeezed over them, or they may have white or brown sauce poured round them. The sauce may be made by stewing the bones and trimmings of the chicken. If a whole chicken ig used, the bones should be removed, and six cutlets should be made by flattening and shaping neatly the legs wings, breast, and merry-thought. They shoul then be rubbed with the savoury powder, egted, breaded, and fried,.as above. ‘Time, three or four minutes to fry the cutlets which have been already dressed; ten minutes to fry those from afresh chicken. Probable cost of chickens, 28.'6d. to 3s. 6d. each. Sufficient, allow: two cutlets for each person: Poulette, Cucumbers & la (see Cucum- bers & la Poulette). — . Poulette Sauce.—Take three ounces of fresh butter ; cut from it a little piece-the size of a nut, and melt the rest in a stewpan. Mix three ounces of flour smoothly with it, and. atir the paste over the fire for three minutes, ‘then add gradually a pint. of boiling stock. Stir the POU ( 643 ) POU saues over the fire for a quarter of an hour. Draw it away for a minute that it may cool slightly, and mix with it the yolks of two eggs which have.been beaten up with two table- spoonfuls of thick cream. Simmer the sauce again until it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Add to it a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, | a little pepper and salt, and a dozen mushroom buttons, and pour it into the tureen. Just: before sending to table stir into it the little piece of butter which was reserved: then serve immediately. To prepare the mushrooms, re- move the stalks and peel them. Put: them into a stéwpan with a table-spoonful' of lenion- - juice and a table-spoonful of water. ‘Shake them over the fire for a minute or two till they have absorbed the juice. Put an ounce of but- ter with them, and boil over a quick fire for five minutes. Turn them into a’ basin, cover them over, and they are ready for the sauce. Time, altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Poultry.—Under this head are included domestic birds which are reared forthe table, and for their eggs, feathers, &c. ‘The poultry of this country are the common domestic fowl, the turkey, the duck, and the goose ; to which some would add the guinea-fowl, and the peacock. In the following table, drawn up by Dr. Kitchiner, we have the particular seasons for various kinds of poultry and game :— Poultry and Come into Continue. Cheapest. Spring To be had’ Chickens |. { Chisktns, through ? November. r April . . theyear .).. ga with? warch. . TillJune . December. {Bripal, Te be haa Fowls .. . Mayan through { November June =: *he-year. Largest ee October Capoms. . fat Christ- Ditto. . .~ and No- 4 mas ‘ . yember. Green Geese . March TSevten Ditto. Geese . . . September { TH) Febru } nitto. Turkey Poults April . ‘Till June . Ditto, Turkeys... , September Till March. Ditto. Dnueklings * . March. . TillMay . Ditto. ee Ducks . . . June ager Ditto. - ‘December; at the Wiid Ducks September Till ditto flights are un- 4 4 Nr certain, Widgeons Teal - Plovers Lerks . . . November Till March Ditto. Wheatears. . July . . eo oe Wild Pigeons. March. {Til Septem-? anoust, Tame ditto . . cles . Tame Rabbits _- All the year . Wild ditto. . June .. sae Febru-? November. Sucking Figs — All the year Leverets : . March, .{ Ti) Septem Hares . .'. September se ; Partridges’.-:. Ditto - : Pheasants. . October Grouse . . Moor Game . Woodcock. .7 5 “Snipes | this month. Fowls and chickens + For the month of January. — Capons, poulards, and fowls of all sizes; chickens, tur- keys, larks, snipes (golden plovers are the best). The well-known plovers’ eggs aro those of the. black plover. "Woodcocks, tame pigeons, and squab. pigeons, wild ducks, widgeons, teal, dun. birds, pintails (commonly called sea-pheasants) . Tame rabbits every month alike. —~ a Fesruary.—All kinds of poultry peculiar to. January may be had in this nionth (wild fowl upon, the decline), guinea-fowl, green geese, ducklings, &c. . Marcu.—Guinea-fowl, &c. &c. &c., same as the preceding months (the March flight of wild fowl is generally known). Turkey poults, turkeys, wild fowl’ (these may be obtained, but are owt of season). tS Aprit.—Same' as March, spring chickens. (no wild fowl). | ae : at May, Junz.—Quails, pea-fowls, guinea-fowls, turkey poults, ducklings; geese ate considered. to be prime in these months; chickens to be had every month.in' the year. Plovers’ eggs. come in season the beginning of April, and continue till the 5th or 6th of June. Wild rabbits in.this month. : JuLy.—The same as June, ruffs and reas. Aveust.—Fine Essex ducks are good this month ; quails are good till game is in season.. Other things the same as July. Szpremner. — Turkeys, game, ducks and. geese, fowls and chickens, pigeons, rabbits,. wild and tame. Ocrozren.—Pheasants, &c. &e. &c., same as. September. tes Novemser.—aAll kinds of wild fowl; guinea- fowls come in this month, turkeys of all sizes. ’ DecemBER.— Wild fowl of every description > the largest turkeys and capons, and almost all’ other kinds of poultry, to be had in perféction 0, be had. every day in the year. : Fowls whieh are fattened artificially are by some epicures preferreil to those called barn- door fowls, whom we have heard say, that they should as soon think of ordering a barn- | dod for dinner as a-barn-door fowl. The age of poultry makes all the difference | —nothing is tenderer ‘than a young chicken ; few things are tougher than an old.cock. or hen, which:is only fit to make, broth, The meridian of perfection of. poultry, is. just before ‘they have come, to their full growth, before- ‘they have begun to harden. Fowls must be killed a couple of days in moderate and more in cold weather before they. are dressed, or they will eat tough; a good criterion of the ripeness of poultry: for the spit. isthe ease wath, which you can then pull out the, feathers: when a fowl is plucked legye a few to help: you. to ascertain this. . : | o#¥t- is sometimes taken for granted by writers on this. ‘subject,’ says one author, “that.all the birds. which can be! domesticated | with advaritage have already been domesticated, The, assumption is, quite gratuitous, and it might as well be asserted that. improvement ‘had reached its utmost in any other direction. The concurrent supposition, that the common domesticated kinds were given to manjat first. as domestic is likewise unsupported by evidencu,., POU ( 644) POU although the domestication of some of our poul- try birds must be referred to a very early date. Among the Anatide some progress has recently been made in the domestication of new kinds ; and a beginning may even be said to: have been made as to some additional gallinaceous birds.” Poultry @ la Tartare.—Divide the remains of a turkey capon or any poultry into neat joints, dip these in egg and bread-crumbs, then into clarified butter, then into egg and bread-crumbs again, and set them aside until wanted. Put the yolk of an egg into a bowl, and beat it for two or three minutes. Add 2 table-spoonful of dry mustard, a little pepper and salt, and a small pinch of cayenne, and, very gradually, eight table-spoonfuls of salad- oil. The oil should be put in first in drops and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, beating well between each addition. Stir in a tea-spoon- ful of vinegar, and then more oil and vine- gar in the same proportion until the sauce is as thick as custard. ‘Taste it, and add a larger proportion of vinegar if liked, but this will make the sauce thinner, which is not de- sirable. Add three shallots finely’ minced, a tea-spoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil, and five or six drops of the essence of an- chovies. Pour this cold sauce upon a dish. Broil the pieces of chicken over a clear fire till they are brightly browned, lay them upon the sauce, and garnish the dish with finely-minced pickled gherkins. A fresh chicken may be cut into neat joints and served in this way, and if young, will be excellent. It should be seasoned, dipped in egg and bread-crumbs, sprinkled with clarified butter, dipped into egg and bread-crumbs again, and broiled over a clear fire for twenty-five. minutes or half an hour. Time to broil the chicken, ten minutes. Probable cost, exclusive ‘of the cold chicken, 1s. 4d. 7 : fh a Aspic Game or gt Poul Aspic (see te mes Poultry, Boiled, Remarks on.— In pickiag, be careful not to break the skin; in drawing, not to break the gall-bladder. Let the fowls hang from two to five'days,' for the most delicate fowl will be tough and thready if too soon dressed. When to be used, draw, singe without blackening, and wash thoroughly, passing a stream of water again and again through the inside. Boiled fowls must be very neatly trussed, as they have small: aid from skewers; and nothing is more indecorous than to see unfortunates on a dinner-table, “ whose dying limbs no decent hands composed.” Put them on with plenty of water, a little warmed, and in a floured cloth if you like. - Having, as usual, skimmed them very carefully, simmer by fhe side of the fire from thirty-five minutes to an hour and a half, according to the size of the fowl. A smalltureen of very good barley or rice broth, seasoned with shred parsley and young onions, may be added at the same time, if a shank or small cutlets of neck-mutton be added; which last may be' frugally served in- the broth. Some good cooks put: fresh suet and slices of peeled lemon to boil with fowls, if lean, but larding is better; while legged fowls are most worthy of attention, whether for eating or appearance. Poultry, Boning of.—It is scarcely likely that written instructions only will enable any one to perform this difficult operation; and far more would be learnt by watching a com- petent person do the work once than by read- ing whole pages about it. Nevertheless, the knowledge how to bone meat and poultry is a very desirable kind of knowledge to attain, and one which can only be perfected by practice. The thing to aim at is to loosen the flesh with- out injuring the skin, and this can be done only by working the knife close to the bone. A short, sharp-pointed knife is the most suitable for the purpose. It is easiest to divide the bird into joints, and remove the bone from each joint separately. If this will not do, the bird may be split open right down the back, and the bones cut out afterwards, and this plan answers excellently for galantines and dishes of a similar description. . The most difficult operation of all is to bone the bird without opening it.. Poul- terers and butchers are generally very pleased when desired to do this work for their cus- tomers. Poultry, Boudins, or French Pud- dings, of.—Half roast the bird. Take off the skin, draw out the sinews, and mince and pound the flesh till it is quite smooth. Mix with it its bulk in baked potatoes, dry and floury, season rather highly with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, and add as much butter as there was meat. Pound the forcemeat between every addition, then mix in gradually three whole eggs and the yolks of two others, together with one or two table-spoonfuls of white sauce, chopped mushrooms, or dressed onions, but take care that the mixture is not too moist. To ascertain this, make up a small ball, drop it into boiling water, and poach it for five minutes. If it wants firmness, put another egg to it; if it is too firm, add a little sauce or water. Form the forcemeat into small sausages or boudins, or mould them into the shape of an egg with a table-spoon: drop them then into boiling water and poach them. Serve the bou- dins piled high on a dish, and pour brown Italian sauce, or white sauce, round them. Before moulding the boudins, put the prepara- tion on ice or in a cool place for some time. ae four or five minutes to poach the bou- ins. Poultry, Fattening of, for the Table.—They should be kept clean, warm, and dry. For their food, mix oat and pease- meal with mashed potatoes, and a little kitchen- stuff. Have their food always fresh and plenti- ful, but do not cram them. Those who value colour as much as quality sometimes fatten fowls on rice swelled in sweet, skimmed milk. On the Continent they are fattened on barley- meal with milk, or on buckwheat, and the flavour is excellent. Young pullets are used at any age. Poultry for the Sick.—Boil or roast a ; fowl in the usual way. As it is not, likely POU (645 ) POU that a sick person will eat the whole at one time, cut off as much as is required for present use, and put the rest aside. As much as it ia thought will be used may be cut off as it is wanted, and warmed up in two or three ways, a8 follows :—Wrap the joint in oiled paper, lay it on a hot gridiron, and warm it gently over a clear fire. Serve it witha little light gravy for sauce. Or broil it without the paper. Or put it in a stewpan, barely cover with a little cold ‘broth, and heat it very gently over a moderate fire. Or put an ounce of Carolina rice into a stewpan with half a pint of stock, and let it simmer gently until the rice is quite tender and the liquid absorbed. If it is very dry, put two more spoonfuls of stock with it, lay the piece of bird upon therice, and let it remain a few minutes until it is quite warm. Serve the rice, fowl, and gravy together. When an invalid finds it difficult to masticate food, the Towl may be prepared as follows:—Pick the meat from a cold roast or boiled chicken, and carefully remove every little piece of skin, gristle, or sinew. Mince finely, and, if liked, season with pepper, salt, and pounded. mace. Generally speaking, however, it is best to defer seasoning the food which is intended for the sick, as their fancies vary so much, and they very often exceedingly dislike flavoured dishes. Put the bones and trimmings of the bird into a stewpan, with a bunch of parsley and a, little pepper and salt, and let: them simmer gently until the gravy is considerably reduced. ‘When the mince is wanted, put a little of it into a clean stewpan, strain a small quantity of gravy over it, thicken it or not, according to taste, with a little flour and butter, let it get quite hot, and serve immediately. Poultry, Garnish for (see Garnish for Poultry, Game, &c.). Poultry, Garnish for (another way).— See Quenelles as a Garnish for Poultry. Poultry, Gravy for (see Gravy, Beef, for Poultry ae Game). Poultry, Potato Cakes to Serve with (see Potato Cakes, German, to serve with Game or Poultry). Poultry, Potted.—Poultry may either be potted whole or cut into neat joints and potted, or the flesh may be picked from the meat and pounded before it is put into the jars. In any case the meat must be thickly covered with butter, or it will not keep. When the meat is not pounded, the joints must be packed together as closely as possible, or they will require a good deal of butter. Birds which are poned and stuffed are excellent potted: they must be quite fresh, must be carefully cleaned, nicely seasoned, baked, and quite cold’ before they are put into the jars, and the butter must be clarified before it is poured over them. If the meat is to be kept, the jar should be covered with bladder’ and tied down closely. Potted chicken is improved by pounding a little fat and lean ham with the meat. Poultry Prepared for Cooking.— Pluck off the feathers of poultry as soon as possible after they are killed. When they be- come cold it. is difficult to draw out the quills without tearing the skin, andsospoiling the look of the birds. The down that remains after the feathers are removed is afterwards to be singed off with lighted paper. In the case of some birds, one must draw out the sinews of the leg: this is done. by binding the joint close to the claw, and fastening the claw in a vice; pull the bird then strongly, and the sinews will give way. The next operation is to empty the crop. Cut a slit in the back of the neck, so as to open into the crop. Remove the contents through this slit. Open the vent, and clean out the entrails. ‘Take care not to break the gall- bladder; if it is not removed carefully its contents will give a bitterness to the flavour of the liver which washing will hardly remove. ‘When the bird is drawn, separate the liver and gizzard from the rest of the entrails, and put them to be cleansed in cold water. Cut off the necks of fowls, ducks, or geese, close to the body. Before doing this, push up the skin that hangs loosely upon the neck above the part at which it is to be cut off. After cutting off the neck, draw the skin down, and wrap it over the end of the neck to hide it from view. Before fastening it down, pour cold water through the body of the fowl. Then break the two bones which lead to the pinions. Now truss the bird. For roasting fowls, trussing is accomplished by cutting off the first joint only of the legs, and by turning them down close to the sides towards the vent, and fastening them by a game-skewer passed from one to the other. Pass another slight skewer through the joint of one wing, into the body, and through to the opposite wing. Place the liver and gizzard, one under each wing. To truss fowls for boiling, cut off the whole of the leg, except the thigh, the end bones of which tuck into the apron. Set up the breast to look plump; place the wings with the liver and gizzard as if for roasting. Tie the whole in proper form with a slight string, which before serving is to be cut and removed. To truss a goose, cut off the legs, feet, and pinions. These, with the neck, head, liver, and gizzard, are what are called giblets. The head of a turkey is not cut off in trussing, but twisted round one of the wings. : Poultry, Ragofit of.—This recipe may be followed with almost any kind of poultry or game. Partially roast the bird in the usual way. When it is half dressed, take it down, and, if liked, divide it into joints, or it may be stewed whole.. Put it into a stewpan with any bones or trimmings that may be at hand, a large onion stuck with two cloves, the thin rind of a quarter of a lemon rolled, half a tea-spoonful of allspice, half a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, as much stock—or, failing this, water—as will cover the ingredients, and a little salt if required. Simmer all very gently till the bird is done enough, then pour off the liquor, and keep the bird hot. Strain the gravy, and skim the fat from it. Dissolve two ounces of butter ina stewpan, and mix smoothly with it as much flour as will make it into a paste, add gradually the hot liquor,.a detsert- spoonful of lemon-juice, and a glass of port or claret. Let it boil a minute or two. Put the POU meat on a dish, pour the ‘hot' gravy over it, garnish with toasted sippets, and serve ‘very ‘hot. It liked, chilli vinegar can be substituted for the! lemon-juice.. The ‘remains of: ‘cold poultry may be served in the same way, but'the meat will not be so succulent as ‘it-would be if iti were only partially roasted’. before it was stewed. Time; varying with the size and age ok the bird. Sufficient for five. or six' persons. “Poultry, Ragoiit of (another way).—This is ‘a general recipe, and may be used to ragout ‘poultry, pigeons, rabbits, &c, Half roast the thing which is to be dressed asa ragott. Carve Atinto joints, as at table, and stew in good stock, with a couple of onions, two dozen corns of allspice and black pepper, a few cloves, a piece ‘of lemon-pecl, and for some things a stick of celery, for others a couple of bay-leaves. Skim the stew, and, keeping the lid quite close, let it simmer for three-quarters of an hour or more, according to, the age and size of the birds. Strain off’ ‘the gravy, leaving the fowls in the stewpan to keep hot. Take off the cake of fat which will soon form, and thicken the gravy with brown rowz, or butter rolled in. browned flour till it is. as thick and stiff as: pancake batter. Add to this a glass of white wine and th> squeeze of a Jemon.. Dish ‘the fowls, ducks, or rabbits, or whatever your dish may be, and pour the sauce hot over them. The sauce must be well worked, and ought to be smooth, thick, and well coloured. It may be made without wine. Poultry, Roasted.—Poultry ‘requires to be plucked and drawn’ carefully before being roasted. It is a good thing for the cook to know how to do this, 43 geese and ducks may often be bought at less expense unplucked and untrussed than when ready for the spit, besides which the feathers, if trimmed and dried in the’ oven, may be used’ to make pillows and cushions. Geese and ducka are generally stuffed with sage and onions; turkeys with veal: forcemeat or with pork sausdge-meat. nc + ee Pk ie ‘Poultry, To. Make Tender. —‘‘ If. obliged to dress poultry immediately. after, killing,” says the author of a collection of French recipes,. “to make it tender, do as |, follows :--Steep- it in’ boiling water,,. and; feather it in the hot. water; or before you kill the poultry,:be it turkey or goose, make it swallow a. spoonful of vinegar. These methods will make the poultry as tender as if killed some,days previous to being -dressed.”’ Pound Cake.—Best a pound of fresh a0 “butter to a cream. Beat into it ‘a pound of: fine sugar pounded and ‘sifted, upon part’ of which, before it was pounded, the rind of two: -oranges or lemons has been rubbed, a pound of dried flour, a pinch of salt, eiglit eggs’ which -have been thoroughly whisked, the whites and yolks separately, and a glass of wine, brandy, ‘or rose-water. Beat the mixture for’ twénty minutes, and pour it into a tin which has ‘been - lined with buttered paper. Lake in a well- heated though not fierce oven, and if possible do not increase the heat until the cake is baked. ( 646 ) POW Though. the cake must ‘be turned about that it maybe equally: browned, the oven ‘door must not be opened oftener. than. is, absolutely necessary; and ifthe cake gets ‘too. highly coloured: before it is done enough, ‘a .pieess of "paper should: be laid upon it.:: In ‘order to!as- certain whether: it is sufficiently: baked, put a skewer to the bottom of it, ‘and if it-comes:out -dry and clean the cake is done; if moist, it must be returned at once to the oven. When the cake is done it should be turhed:out at once, and. placed upon ‘its ‘side, or else:onia sieve, which has been ‘turned ' upside :!down until it is. cold, and the paper should’ not. ‘be removed until the cake is to be usedy.:'Phis cake may be made either larger or smaller by increasing ‘the quantity of the ingredients in their due proportions; and it: may ‘be made Jess rich by using’ a larger quantity of flour... A pound of picked: and ‘driéd!: currants is ‘fre- quently added ‘to the other ingredients, and the flavour may be varied by the addition: of candied peel, lemon or orange, blanched: and chopped almonds, pistachio . kernels, »:.dried cherries, or plums. ‘Time to bake, one: hour ‘and a half to. two hours. . Probable cost, 3s. 6d. ' Poutarg.—Thisisa kind of dry and pressed caviar. It is prepared with the roes of mullet or tunny, and is much in demand in Italy and the East. It is served as a hors dcwvre, cut into thin slices, and seasoned with oil, pepper, and lemon-juice. toe Powders.—In addition to those given be- low, recipes for the following powders will be found under. their respective headings :— .. Aumonp-pust, Burnt’ Curry ==: ANCHOVY ' Herss: Baxine . » HorsERapish Biscurr “' Musirooms Curry (Dr. Kitch- Oyster ‘ iner’s Recipe): ° Ragotr . -Powder,; Baking (see Pastry-powder or Baking-powder). e Se te a o° Powder, Blancmange.—To make this powder, mix one pound of sago meal, fifteen drops of essence of lemon, and twelve grains of mace. it Phat eee feast Powder, Custard.—Take two pounds of sago meal, half an ounce,of powdered turmeric, and half a drachin' each of mace, cassia; and bitter-almond powder. : Powders, Ginger Beer.—Take one to two drachms of white sugar powdered, twenty- six grains of bicarbonate of soda, six grains of the finest Jamaica ginger powdered,’ and’ one drop of essence ‘of lemon. ‘Mix these ingre- dients, and wrap the powder in blue’ paper. ‘Take thirty-five grains of ‘powdered tartaric acid, er thirty grains of powdered citric acid, ‘and wrap in white paper. To use, dissolve each colour in about half a glassful of water; mix the two, and drink whilst effervescing. Powders, Ginger Beer (another way); —Take sixteen ounces of white sugar powdered, one ounce of the finest Jamaica ginger, five ounces of bicarbonate of soda, and fifty or:sixty ene | drops of essence of lemon. Mix, and divide the POW ‘(, 647 ) PRA powder between ninety-six: blue papers. Put six ounces of tartaric acid into the same number of white papers. Use as directed in the pre- ceding recipe. ' no i ‘ Powders, Lemonade.—Take twelve grains of powdered citric or tartaric acid, half an ounce of white sugar powdered, one drop.of essence of lemon, or a little of the yellow peel of a lemon rubbed off on a lump of. sugar. Enough for-one glass. t ote Powders, Lemonade(another way).— Take four pounds of white sugar powdered, an ounce and a half of citric or tartaric, acid, and a quarter of an ounce of essence of lemon. Mix'well, and bottle for use. To make a glass of lemonade, take one to two dessert-spoonfuls of the powder. ‘Powders, Lemonade (another way).— Powder half an ounce (apothecaries’ weight) of citric or tartaric acid with three ounces of loaf sugar and a few drops of oil of lemon-peel. Rub these ingredients thoroughly together in a marble mortar, and divide the powder into twelve parts. For use, dissolve one of-these in half a pint of cold water. | Powders, Lemonade, Effervescing. —Take one pound of powdered white sugar, a quarter of a pound of bicarbonate of soda, and one and a half drachms ‘of essence of lemon. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and divide them between six dozen papers. Take five ounces of tartaric or ‘citric acid, and divide it between the same number of white papers. Use as in the case of Ginger Beer Powders (see, Powders, Ginger Beer). : ‘Powders, Sherbet.— Prepare in the same way as Lemonade Powders, vurying the flavouring ingredient to suit the particular case. Powders, Soda-water.—Place thirty grains of bicarbonate of soda in each blue paper, ‘and twenty-five grains of. tartaric acid or twenty-four grains of citric acid in each white paper. ‘To use, mix the contents-of each paper separately in about half a, glassful of water; mix.the two and drink at.once. This is a cooling, wholesome summer.drink, but it. should not be partaken of to excess. ‘Powders, Spruce Beer.—Prepare in the sarne way as Ginger Beer Powders, but, in- stead of powdered ginger, use three to six drops of ‘the essence of spruce. Ne Prawn.—The prawn is a delicate shell-fish, very much like a shrimp, but larger and more delicate in flavour. ‘It varies very miich in price. Prawn and Lobster Soup.—Take a freshly-boiled hen, lobster, remove the meat from the tail and claws, cut it into neat square pieces, and put these aside. Pick fifty prawns, put the head and. bruised shells of the lobster and the shells of the prawns into a stewpan with a quart of stock, a sliced, onion, and an ounce of butter. Let them simmer gently for an hour, then’ pour over them an additional two quarts of stock.‘ Mix six ounces ‘of fou with a little cold stock, add this to- the soup, and stir until it begins to thicken. Draw it back, set it by the side of the fire, let it simmer gently for half.an hour, then press the whole through a fine sieve, Return the soup to the stewpan and let it boil; skim carefully,and add .| whatever seasoning is 'required:, . Put in' the -picked prawns :and the lobster. meat, let them get quite hot, add a bredkfast-cupful .of thick cream, and serve. Time, two hours or more. Sufficient for, ten or twelve persons. ‘Prawn Curry.—Chopihalf an onion very finely, put it into alstewpan with half an ounce of fresh butter, andlet it steam over a gentle fire until it is tender without being. browned. Rub. it with a wooden spoon through a fine sieve, mix a dessert-spoonful of .curry-paste ‘with the. pulp, and.add gradually half a pint of: good stock. Boil the sauce for a few minutes, put into it a pound of prawns which have ‘been weighed aiter being boiled and shelled, and let all.stew:gently together. Serve the curry on a hot dish with a border.of boiled rice- round it. Time to stew the prawns, a quarter of-an hour. Probable: cost, variable. Sufficient for five or six persons. 5 Prawn Curry (another way). — Mince an onion finely, and steam it ina little butter until it is quite soft. _Rub it through a fine sieve, and mix with the pulp a: table-spoonful of the:rasped meat of a cocoanut, and a table- spoonful’ of curry-paste' or powder —‘paste is much the better of the two. Add gradually.a pint of good broth and half a-stick of cinna- mon, and let the sauce simmer for ‘a quarter of an hour. Putin a pound of prawns weighed after they have been shelled, and let them simmer for a few minutes. About ten minutes before the curry is taken from the fire, mix a tea-spoonful of flour smoothly with the cocoa- nut-milk, and add it-to the sauce. Stir gently over the fire for five. minutes, squeeze the juice of a lemon into the curry, and serve very hot. Send boiled rice to table on a separate dish. Time, one hour. Probable cost, prawns, variable. Sufficient for five or six persons. Prawn Pie.—Have as many well-cleaned prawns as will nearly fill the pie-dish. Season . with -pounded mace, cloves, a little cayenne or Chili vinegar. Put, some butter.in the dish, and cover with a light puff-paste. _ The pie will take less than three-quarters of an hour to bake. Be aes sora, --astel Prawn Soup.—Mince, finely two jonions, a carrot, and a dozen:of the outer sticks, of a head of celery, and put them into a stewpan with three ounces of fresh butter, a bay-leaf, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme, and let them ‘steam gently. for a quarter of an’ hour. Shake the saucepan’ eVery.now and then to keep them from burning. Pour over them three pints of broth or water, and mix this gradually with four ounces of flour mixed to a smooth paste with a little cold water; stir the gai over the fire till it boils, then draw it back, let it simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, and strain. Pick out the tails of fifty prawns, and put the bodies and shells into a stewpan with a little stock ‘and a glassful of light wine. Let them stew for a quarter of an hour; then pass the liquid through a fine sieve, and mix it with the soup. Season PRA ( 648 ) PRA with a little cayenne, and add a table-spoon- ful of mushroom ketchup, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce. Put in the picked prawns, let them boil for five or six minutes, and serve very hot. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, variable. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Prawn Soup (another way). — Prepare two quarts of stock according to the directions given in the last recipe. Pick the tails from a hundred freshly-boiled prawns, and put the shells and bodies into a stewpan with a quarter of a pint of vinegar, a quarter of a pint of stock, and a blade of mace. Let them simmer for twenty minutes. Press the prawns through a sieve, and with them the crumb of a French roll which has been softened with a little of the stock. Mix the liquid with the soup, and add a little lemon-juice and Harvey’s sauce,’ with a tea-spoonful of anchovy, and a pinch of cayenne; boil for five minutes; add the shelled prawns, and, when they are quite hot, serve the soup in a tureen. Time, altogether about an hour and a half. Probable cost, un- certain. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Prawns and Shrimps, Choosing of. —When fresh, prawns have a sweet flavour and a bright colour, and are firm and stiff. Shrimps are of the prawn kind, and are to be judged by the same rules. Prawns, Boiled.—Put two table-spoon- fuls of salt into half a gallon of water, and bring the liquid to the boil. Throw in the prawns, and let them remain for about eight minutes. They are done enough when they e colour. Drain them on a sieve, and let them cool. They should be served while fresh. Stale prawns which are not too stale will be improved if they are thrown for one minute into fast-boiling water, before they are served. Prawns are best when they have no spawn under their tails. Prawns, Buttered. — Pick a pint of freshly-boiled prawns, Bruise the shells, and put them into a stewpan with a breakfast- cupful of stock, and a little cayenne and grated nutmeg. Let them simmer for twenty minutes; strain the liquid, and thicken it with flour and butter to the consistency of thick cream. Put in the picked prawns, and heat them thoroughly. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sippets. Time, three minutes to heat the prawns. Sufficient for three or four persons. Prawns, Cold, to Dish.—Place a cup upside down in the centre of a small dish, and cover it neatly with a white napkin. Put the prawns round it, and garnish with plenty of parsley. Or cut a slice from a lemon or orange, so that it may stand firmly. Place it on a napkin, and arrange the prawns prettily. upon it, putting a little fresh parsley between the rounds. The prawns may be kept in posi- tion by the horns being stuck lightly into the lemon. Garnish with parsley. Prawns in Jelly (a pisity supper dish). —Take a quart of stiff calf’s-foot stock free from fat and sediment, and put it into a stew- pan with half a dozen shallots, each one with a clove stuck in it, two bay-leaves, half a blade of mace, and a sprig of thyme. Let these simmer gently until the stock is pleasantly flavoured, then strain it into a bowl, and let it cool. Whisk the whites of two eggs with a little cold water. Stir this briskly into the stock, put it back into the saucepan, add the crushed shells of the eggs, and let the stock boil, but on no account stir it after it begins to boil up. Keep it boiling for a quarter of an hour, then lift it from the fire, and let it stand to settle for another quarter of an hour. Strain it through a jelly-bag until it is clear. Pour a little of the jelly into adamp mould. When it is firm, lay some prawns upon it with their backs downwards, and pour more jelly over them. Repeat until the mould is full, and be careful that each layer of jelly is set before another is putin. Put the jelly in a cool place, and turn it out before serving. If liked, the jelly may be made with isinglass or gelatine dissolved in water instead of calf’s-foot stock. Time, an hour to make the jelly. Sufficient for a three-pint mould. Prawns, Malay Curry of.—Pick some prawns from their shells; let them be a pint when prepared. Rasp the half of a large cocoa- nut into two spoonfuls of hot water, and then smooth it through « sieve. Stew the prawns very gently with a shred: onion and enough good mutton or veal broth to cover. See that the broth is well seasoned, and put in a stick of cinnamon. When the prawns are getting tender, mix two dessert-spoonfuls of curry- powder in a little cold broth, add it to the rest in the stewpan, and simmer for a few minutes. Take out the prawns, and strain the gravy over them into a clean pan; make hot, and add the rasped cocoa-nut, and flour enough to thicken, . which should be mixed with some of the nut- milk. Let all simmer gently for a few minutes, and serve with juice of a lemon and boiled rice in a separate dish. Time, one hour. Sufficient for a dish. Prawns, Potted.—Pick fresh prawns after they have been boiled. Out them lightly, and pound them in a marble mortar with a small quantity of fresh butter, a seasoning of cayenne and powdered mace or grated nutmeg, and a little salt, if neces- sary, but it is probable that they will not require it. Put them into jars, cover with clarified butter lukewarm, and tie a bladder securely over them. Time to boil, eight minutes. Prawns, Shelling of.—Hold the head of the prawn firmly in the right hand and the tail in the left. Straighten the body of the fish, and bring the thumbs near one another. Break the shell of the tail with a little twist of the right hand, then draw the shell off. It will come off almost whole, a very small piece only being left. Unless the prawns are fresh, they will not shell easily. Prawns, Shrimps, or Crayfish Potted. —Boil them fe water with nae of salt in it. When you have picked them, powder them with a little beaten mace, or grated nut- meg, or allspice, and pepper and salt; add a PRA ( 649 ) PRE little cold butter, and pound all well together in a marble mortar till of the consistence of paste. Put it into pots covered with clarified butter, and cover these over with wetted bladder. Prawns, Stewed.—Pick the tails from a pint of freshly-boiled prawns. Bruise the shells, and put them with the heads into a saucepan with a pint of white wine and water, then add a dessert-spoonful of vinegar, half a blade of mace, and a little cayenne. Let them simmer gently for half an hour. Strain the liquid, put it back into the saucepan, thicken with a tea-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little butter, and boil till it is of the consistency of thick cream. Put in the tails of the prawns, and let them get quite hot. Toast a slice of the crumb of bread, and cut it into strips. Lay these in their original form on a dish, pour the stewed prawns over them, and serve very hot. Garnish with parsley. Time, three or four minutes to heat the prawns. Sufficient for four or five persons. Preservation of Food.—There are four leading methods by which food, and particularly animal food, has been, and is, preserved with a greater or less amount of success. These are— first, drying, or desiccation; second, the appli- cation of cold, or refrigeration; third, the use of chemical agents, or antiseptics; and fourth, the application of heat. To speak of these methods in order, let us first take the process of drying, or desiccation. In a sense this is hardly a scientific mode of food- preservation at all; certainly it is far from a satisfactory one in reference to animal sub- stances, which must be dried almost to a chip before they are fitted thoroughly to resist the ordinary laws of decomposition. It is not, however, altogether to be despised, as by it mankind has been able to utilise a vast quantity of food which would otherwise have been wasted. A good example of food preserved in this way is Charqui, or South-American dried beef, which possesses considerable nutritive value, as is shown by the fact of its having been the staple: article of food among the labouring populations in the tropical regions of South America for many years. The attempts made to introduce Charqui into this country have not met with _ any encouragement, but it is possible that it might be made an adjunct to our food supply. One of the great difficulties attending desic- cation is that animal matter preserved by its means loses its favour, and becomes tough and indigestible; the fat also becomes rancid, and in damp weather the meat absorbs moisture, and is liable to turn mouldy and sour. To a certain extent, this obstacle is overcome by mixing absorbent substances with fatty food, as in “‘pemmican,” where sugar and spice are mixed with dry powdered meat. Meat biscuits, such as those now supplied by wholesale manufac- turers, are made on the same principle of fari- naceous meal absorbing meat essences. The first recorded patent in this country for the preservation of vegetables by desiccation was granted in 1780 to John Graefer, who dipped the vegetables in boiling salt and water, and then dried them. In November, 1850, a patent was obtained for drying and forcibly compressing vegetables, so that they were reduced to one- seventh their original size; a cubic yard thus contained rations for 16,000 men. The French have been very successful in this line of pre- servation, but many English houses now pro- duce vegetables in the form of chips or of com- pressed cakes. From America dried vegetables are being imported at 1s. 6d. a pound, half an ounce being sufficient for adding to a pint of soup. ‘Considering,’ says one writer, “the high price charged by greengrocers for vegetables, and the waste in utilising them in almost every household, housekeepers, even among the working classes, would do well to give their attention to these dried vegetables, and at least give them a trial. When soaked and well boiled they will be found not only economical in their use, but excellent in soups, and even in eating with meat in lieu of ordi fresh vegetables. The process of drying elimi- nates little else but the water, and takes from them little, if any, of their flavour.” Perhaps the reader remembers that compressed vege- tables, together with dried meat, were largely consumed in the Crimea by the English and French armies, and that vast quantities of com- pressed vegetables were supplied to the British. troops during the Ashantee campaign. In soup squares or tablets we have a form of preserved food prepared partly by the desiccat- ing method. Most of them are compressed, but some are ‘in the form of grains or flour, being composed of various substances, combined with powdered meat or meat extracts. One house offers an almost: endless variety of soup squares, such as carrot, pea, chestnut, mulligatawny, . &e.; also large cubes called “ Gargantua,” after the mythical giant celebrated by Rabelais, one of which, dissolved in three pints of water, makes a most delicious pot-pourri of four pounds’ weight of nutritious food. The second method, the preservation of food. by refrigeration, will be found explained in a succeeding article (see Refrigeration, Food Preserved by). On the preservation of meat by the use of chemical agents, or antiseptics, much ingenuity has been expended by scientific men. The best known antiseptic is chloride of sodium, or common salt, which has been employed for the preservation -of animal substances from a very -early period. It is likely always to remain in use, either simply or in conjunction with an after-process of drying or smoking, or with both combined. The fact is that many substances . treated with common salt are extremely tasty and palatable—ham and bacon, for example— and the cost of the process is exceedingly trifling. It should be remembered, however, that salt by itself is only a temporary preserva- tive agent, and is dietetically to be objected to on the ground that it extracts the soluble con- stituents of meat, makes it hard and indiges- tible, and thus deprives it of its stimulating and nutritive constituents. From the eating of large quantities of salt meat without the proper quantity of vegetables to counteract its effects, it is well known that scorbutic diseases ensue. Besides common salt, other saline substances have been employed: for the preservation of PRE’ (650 ) PRE meat; for example, saltpetre, acetate of am- monia, ‘sulphate ‘of potash, and -muriate of ammonia. The smoking of meat or fish by exposure ‘to the. vapour of peat,'wood, &c., is -chemically subjecting them to the’attion of the ereosote of the empyreumatic oil of the smoke. The preservation of provisions by means of salt, sugar, spices, vinegar, spirit; and fumiga- tion by' burning wood, have the drawback of being partly chemical additions to food, and also of inducing chemical’ changes, which, to'a -certain extent, influence the digestibility of the article. - Salt, also, as we have hinted, draws out from the meat some of its chief nourishing constituents. Liebig, in his: ‘* Chemistry of Food,” remarks:—‘“It is universally: known that in the salting of meat the flesh is:‘rubbed and sprinkled with dry salt, and: that where the salt and meat are in contact. a brine is formed, amounting in bulk to one-third of the fluid contained in the raw flesh. I have ascertained that this brine contains the chief constituents of a concentrated soup, or infu- sion of meat, and that therefore, in the process of salting; the composition of the flesh is changed, and: ‘this, too, ina much. greater degree than-occurs in boiling. In boiling, the highly nutritious albumen remains in the mass of the flesh;. but in ‘salting, the albumen -is separated from the flesh; for when the ‘brine from salted meat ‘is heated to boiling, a large quantity of albumen separates as a coagulum. ‘*It is now easy to’ understand that, in the -salting of meat, when this'is pushed so far as to produce the brine above'mentioned, a num- ber of substances ‘are withdrawn fromthe flesh which are ‘essential to its constitution, and that it therefore loses in nutritive quality in -pro- portion to this abstraction. ' If these substances be -not supplied from other quarters, | it- is obvious that a ‘part of the flesh is converted into an element of respiration—certainly not conducive to good health. It is-certain, more- over, that the health of a man cannot: be per- manently. sustained by means of salted meat, if the quantity be not greatly increased, inas- much as it cannot. perfectly replace,’ by’ the substances it contains, those parts of the body which have been expelled in consequence of the changes of matter, nor can it preserve in its normal state the fluid distributed in every part of the body—namely, the juices of ‘the flesh.. A change in the gastric juice, and consequently in that of the products of the digestive process, must be regarded as an inevitable result of-the long-continued use of salted’'meat; and if, during digestion, the substances necessary to the, transformation of that species of food be taken from other parts of the organism, these parts must lose their normal condition.” ‘We come now to the preservation of food by the application of heat. _ This is'the most suc- cessful method yet discovered and ‘practically applied. It is properly termed ‘‘ preservation in vacuo,” and ‘in its' leading features is simple enough. The first simple’ process consisted in placing meat with a charge of water in » tin case with a small aperture, or “ pin-hole”” at the top, and thei laying'it in boiling water nearly up to its top; when the steam has dis- placed the air the hole is stopped up with { ; : a5 | solder. This process has been improved upon, and: there are’ now four methods,’ in ‘& setise distinct from each other, ofapplying heatto the vessels, and perfecting the’ presérvation of their contents. These are—first, the ordinary Aberdeen -process;. second, the steam retort process; third, the-chloride of caleium process ; and fourth, Jones’s: patent vacuum process. + “The older, or ordinary Aberdeen. :process,” says'the authority to whom ‘we are indebted for the, greater part of: our. infovination, on this | subject, “is carried out,as foliows,;—The raw meat, with or without.a small quantity of fluid, | is placed in tins,,.which are soldered down perfectly.air-tight. They are let down on iron frames, or ‘ gridirons,’ by means of pulleys into | baths of boiling water, raised.to a higher tem- perature by the addition of salt, and kept there for a certain time, according to the size of. the tins; the first bath of 4, six-pound, tin, for instance, requiring two hours and a half. At the expiration of this time ;they are removed, and placed on a table near,the -bath, and: the expanded air and vapour are let out through a minute aperture in the lid of the tin.’ “This is ‘done by one of the workmen touching with a hot iron the small piece of'solder placed over the aperture, or ‘pin-hole,’ originally made in | the lid.: The steam at once rushes out, but within a few seconds another workman follows, and again solders:down the ‘ pin-hole.’' This part of the process is, in'the vernacular, called ‘brogging.’ ' The tins are then returned to the boiling brine for‘the same time as before, when - they are again ‘brogged.’? Once more they are returned ‘to the bath, and afterwards with- drawn, and stood to cool;'and ‘the ‘process is complete. It may be here mentioned ‘that some of the beef and mutton is’ partially baked or -roasted, before being placed in the tins, and thése are labelled as'‘ roast’ beef or mutton, as distinguished from the boiled, though’ the dif- ference, practically, when tasted, is very slight. “The steam retort process, as adopted by Messrs. Hogarth, who have by it preserved from time to tifne a large quantity of mitat for our Government at the Deptford Victualling ; Yard, consists in placing the tins, with the ‘pin-hole’ open, in’ what may be’ called a steam-tight retort, into which steam is allowed to pass, producing a pressure of something like 230 degrees. After an hour and a half: or two hours, they are taken out, and the ‘pin-hole’ soldered down. They are then placed’ in the retort’ for an hour or'dn hour and a half, at a temperature of about 240: degrees, and: then taken out and cooled. ; te “The chloride of calcium process consists in placing the tins, with the ‘ pin-hole’ oe to about one-half or two-thirds their depth in a bath of solution of chloride of calcium, by which a temperature may be gained of from 260 to 270 degrees. ‘This temperature is: only gradually arrived at, and for three or ‘four hours the steam escapes'from the tins: at the ‘pin-holes.’ The’ tins are then solderéd down, ‘but are continued in this bath for a further period: before they are taken out to cool. ‘In carrying out the above ‘briefly-described pro- cesses, manufacturers may vary a! little in details, some: using a higher temperature than PRE ( 651 ) PRE others, or not subjecting ee so- long a period to the hot baths, or modifying the operation of ‘brogging,’ or introducing ‘some other, slight modifications which, do, not, really affect the main principle of these methods of preservation by heat. Oe aa eres ‘“‘The chief feature of the patent’ vacuum process of Mr. Jones is that each tin, as .it stands in the hot: bath, is connected by a tube with a vacuum chamber, and that the steam and moisture are from time, to time suddenly drawn off from. the tin by turning a tap con- nected with the chamber, The advantage of this, process. is, that, a, vacuum is created in the ting..more quickly than by the other heat processes, and thus the necessity of overcooking their contents, as in the, other methods, inorder to obtain a perfect:.vacuum, is to a, great extent obviated, and the meat turns out more solid. This comparative complication, how- ever, of Jones’s process, and the difficulty in its | manipulation, coupled with the fact. that the weight of the contents.of the tins,is so. greatly reduced by, the absorbtion, of , the, moisture, have. militated against the:,adoption,: of ,the patent by meat-preservers .generally,, though many.of them fully acknowledge its superiority to other methods in the food preserved by it. , . “Such are the several, processes, differing somewhat in detail, but substantially the same in principle, by which preserving jby ‘heat is effected. It is by one or.other of: these, with certain trifling modifications adopted’ by this or that manufacturer, that almost allthe solid meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, soups, .stews, the variety of ‘odds and enda,’ such,as kidneys, tripe, sausages, minced, meat, and the several “made dishes,’ both in, this. country and abroad, are preserved; and it.is by heat, alone that it can fairly, be said the food-preservation question has been solved, and then only in a certain modified sense. By all the above heat methods, however, preservation—-simply, as preservation —is perfect. As long as the. tin or other receptacle in which meat, or any other ‘sub- stance, has,,been successfully preserved by the creation of a perfect, yacuum, remains sound and ‘gir-tigbt, so long, will its contents. remain sound also. Tins, with:the meat perfectly good in them, théugh preserved nearly. fifty years ago, are, still in. existence... At the London Exhibitions of 1851,;,1862,,and 1863,-tins, of | meat which had been put up from twenty-five to forty years before were exhibited: and tested, and: werefound perfectly sound. Stores’ of preserved meat, &c., in’ tins, have been left in the; Aretic regions for -years, annually ex-. posed. to a,temperature of 92. degrees. below, and 80 degrees above zero,:,,They have been: brought back.,to,.this country, andthe: con-' tents.iof. the ting found to,be:as sound as the! day they were put up. As-a matter, then, of | mere. preservation, the heat processes are an unquestionable ,success, and by -their sagency | we have in this.country been able:.to.obtain. a‘ large supply;of, sound, edibley andcheap. beef . and mutton from the very ends:ef theiearth.”.: ‘Preserved, meat.in tins. comes to this.coun- try from. Australia, New Zealand, and :South: America. It has failed to attain that popularity | which was anticipated at first, though the con- sumption, it cannot be denied, is very consider- _able. One of the chief reasons for receiving little notice at the hands of some people is its over- cooked state. ,‘‘With ,all its impenfeotions, oweyer,” says one writer, “we, hold it might _be.much more widely used than it.is; for even, if it is admitted. that, mouthful for mouthful, it |.is of less. nutzitive value -thaa, butcher's meat, _yet the latter, after; the deductions in weight for cooking and bone, costs really about twice as mach asthe preserved meat,” te .) The heat process has been applied with con- siderable. success to the preservation of fish ; | but; this, however, is inclined to grow soft and pulpy after being some time in the tins. » It should-be eaten within a reasonable period of its preservation.. WA Hi Gu Re ON Vegetables.and fruit have also been subjected to the--heat process, and are well .worthy -of attention., : ' . Preserved Fruit in Pastry. — Pre- served fruits ought. not to ‘be baked long; indeed, those ‘that ‘have been:'preserved’ with their full: proportion of sugar’ require’ no baking: Bake the crust in atin. shape, and add the fruit‘afterwards ; or put ‘the fruit in'a small dish' or tart pan, and bake the' covers on ‘atin, cuti according to taste. R fe ' Preserved Fruit, Omelet. of (a French recipe).—Beat the whites and yolks of six eggs separately; add a, little zest of lemon to the latter; then mix the two together, beating them well, with a little cream, and two table-spoonfuls of apple marmalade, apricot, “gooseberry, or any fruit you, haye. Pour it ‘into the pan;, sugar if when inthe pan; turn it 'topsy-turvy into a’ plate; put it on a dish, cover the surface thickly with powdered sugar, and brown it with the salamander. ~ Preserved Milk.—The value of.preserved milk is acknowledged by thousands of households in which no other form of milk is used. .The history of this article is soon told. For many years, the only sort of preserved milk was:what -was called -desiccated milk, buti it never was regarded with: much favour; the process ‘by :which it was-obtained destroyed some of the -essential constituents of the original substance, and thus lessenneéd its nutritive value. -. ‘f Bhe-method!of condensing and preserving the milk.is substantially the same. at:all the manufactories. The writer of ‘this. article,” says:a@- popular. author, ‘has:'watched . the process from beginning to end,on. more than one occasion, both at Aylesbury. and. Middle- wich ; «it: may : be: thus: .described:—+Steam. is got:wp about six.in the morning, ‘and .the farmers who: live withinione to ten miles of the factory begin to deliver their milk about seven o’clock,and it: is: nearly nine “before: the: last arrives. The milk is emptied at once from:the large tin cans generally used:in the trade into a trough, which conducts it through:sieves.into a -large tank, holding! about /eight:;hundred gallons, in the department where the first: part of.the process takes place. From this tank it is drawn into large open metal cylinders,-which are slung up by a-crane, and: placed in a hot water bath, in. large tanks, somewhat after the PRE ( 652 ) PRE manner of the tins of meat in the chloride of calcium process, as adopted in the preservation of meat. After remaining in the bath some time, they are again lifted by the cranes, and emptied into large open funnel-shaped vats, whence the hot milk is drawn up, through a pipe in the centre, into the condensing-pans on the upper floor. Sugar having been mixed with it, solely, let it be remarked, for the purpose of preserving it, it remains in these pans, subject to a somewhat low heat, for two or three hours, while the evaporation of the water is taking place, and the milk is gradually becoming condensed. When this part of the process, which may be watched through the glass window of the condenser, is completed, the milk, now about the consistency of liquid honey, returns by a pipe into a lower room, and is received again into the open cylinders, which are swung into the central tanks—this time filled with cold water—for the purpose of cool- ing. The regulation of the temperature during the whole of these processes is a matter of the greatest nicety, and; of the utmost importance in securing success. After cooling the con- densed milk, it is taken to the ‘ filling room,’ and run into the tins, which are at once soldered up, and packed in cases ready to be sent to their different destinations. ‘The condensed milk gradually thickens in the tins, becoming slightly more consistent up to five or six months, after which it remains of the same consistency, and will continue sound and good as long as the tin remains perfect. “Jt will thus be seen that the condensed milk is simply natural cows’ milk, from which a certain proportion of water has been abstracted, and to which a certain quantity of sugar has been added. Speaking in round numbers, it may be said that of cows’ milk 85 per cent is water, but, as has been demonstrated by evi- dence given at various prosecutions under the ‘Adulteration of Food Act’ during the last few years, the relative proportion of water and solid matter will vary according to the variation of the breed of cattle, their age, pasturage, food, climate, and the seasons of the year. Ordinary milk, according to Professor Wanklyn, consists of the following proportions :—water, 87:19; and solids, 12°81=100. Condensed milk, ac- cording to Baron von Liebig, shows—water, 22°44; solids, 77-56=100. The process of con- densing, or, as it might be called, evaporising milk eliminates the greater part of the water ; and ‘the further analysis of the condensed milk shows that the caseine, butterous or fat, and other solid or nutritive particles remain intact in their original form. ‘Thus we have an article which is in reality pure milk with the addition of a little sugar in order to preserve it, and not an article made from milk. Any introduction of a foreign substance, in the way of adulteration, would at once cause the milk to decompose, and we believe we are quite correct in saying that no attempt has ever been made to adulterate this article. When the contents of a tin are found to be unsound, the cause is to be sought in the failure in making a particular batch of milk—always a most delicate operation—owing to which the external air has been admitted. Baron Liebig, in his recorded analysis of the Swiss milk, says, ‘It consists of nothing but cows’ milk ‘and the best refined sugar, and pos- sesses all the properties and qualities of a per- fectly pure mili;’ and Dr. Hassall and other eminent analysts certify to the same effect. But it is in the power of any one to test the con- densed milk without the aid of any chemical appliances. If sufficient water is added to the condensed milk to bring it back to its original state—i.e., to re-establish the original propor- tion between the water and other constituents, cream will rise from it in the ordinary way; only it must be stood in open flat vessels, and not in high glass columns, called ‘graduated test tubes,’ because the sugar to some extent pre- vents the cream’ readily rising. Again, if the condensed milk, mixed with the proper propor- tion of water, be raised to a temperature of 70 » degrees, it will churn into butter like ordinary milk “ Each one-pound tin represents the conden- sation of about two quarts to five pints of crude milk, and therefore will bear so much water added to it as to bring it back to its original condition and bulk. In each tin there is about four ounces of the best refined sugar. Now, putting the value of the tin at one penny, and the milk at tenpence, we get for sevenpence er eightpence what otherwise would cost us from elevenpence to one shilling, simply because the manufacturers in country districts can obtain the milk at about twopence per quart. Of the convenience of the article it is hardly necessary to speak. It is invaluable for travellers by land and sea. Nor is it less convenient as an article for ordinary household consumption, while the certainty of its genuineness adds much to its value. It can be used for any purpose for which ordinary milk and sugar are used—for puddings, custards, and other culi- nary requirements ; it is admirably adapted for eating with fruit tarts, as Devonshire cream, and with the usual ingredients makes capital salad-dressing. Less than a _ tea-spoonful, without water, is sufficient for a cup of tea, while four or five times that quantity will make a basin of sweet bread and milk for a child. It is almost impossible to exaggerate the value of this milk for infants and: children, especially during the prevalence of infantile diarrhea, which, in the opinion of the majority of medical men, is to be attributed to the badness of the milk supplied to the poor in large centres of population.” Preserve or Jam Omelet.— Beat thoroughly the yolks of six eggs. Add three ounces of sugar, and if any flavouring is added be careful that it harmonises with the jam that is to be used. A strawberry omelet may be flavoured with orange-flower water, an apple-marmalade omelet with grated lemon- rind. Beat the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, and just before the omelet is poured into the pan mix them with the rest. Dissolve two ounces of butter in the omelet-pan, pour in the mixture, and fry the omelet in the usual way (see Omelet). Before folding it, lay two or three table-spoonfuls of jam in the centre. Sprinkle a little sugar over the top, candy by holding over it a salamander or red-hot fire-shovel, and 1 Serve immediately before the omelet can fall. PRE ( 653 ) Time, four to six minutes. Sufficient for two or three persons. Preserves, Fruit.—Home-made jam is both a.convenience and a luxury. When well and carefully.made it is not only superior to that which is usually offered for sale, but very much more economical also, and no store-closet can be said to be well filled which does not boast a goodly show of neatly-labelled jars of preserves. In making jam, the first thing to be looked after is the fruit. As a general rule, this should be fully ripe, fresh, sound, and scrupulously clean and dry. It should be gathered in the morning of a sunny day, as it will then possess its finest flavour. The best sugaris the cheapest; indeed, there is no economy in stinting the sugar, either as to quality or necessary quantity, for inferior sugar is wasted in scum, and the jam will not keep unless a sufficient proportion of sugar is boiled with the fruit. At the same time too large a proportion of sugar will destroy the natural flavour of the fruit, and in. all probability make the, jam candy. The sugar should be dried and broken up into small pieces before it is mixed with the fruit. If it is left in large lumps it will be a long time in dissolving, and if it is crushed to powder it will make the jam look thick instead of clear and bright. The quantity to be used must depend in every instance on the nature of the fruit, and will be found in the several recipes throughout this work. Fruit is generally boiled in a brass or copper pan uncovered, and this should be kept perfectly bright and clean. Great care should be taken not to place the pan flat upon the fire, as this will be likely to make the jam burn to the bottom of the pan. If it cannot be placed upon a stove-plate, it.should be hung a little distance above the fire., Glass jars are much the best for jam, as through them the condition of the fruit.can be observed. Whatever jars are used, however, the jam should be examined every three. weeks for. the first two months, and if there are any signs of either mould or fer- mentation, it should be boiled over again. The best way to cover jam is to lay a piece of paper the size of the jar upon the jam, to stretch over the top a piece of writing-paper or tissue paper which has been dipped in white of egg, and to press the sides closely down. When dry, this paper will be stiff and tight like a dram. The strict economist may use gum dissolved in water instead of white of egg. The object aimed at is to exclude the air entirely. Jam. should be stored in a cool dry place, but not in ong into which fresh air never enters. Damp has a ten- dency to make the fruit go mouldy, and heat to make it ferment. Some cooks cover the jam as soon as possible after it is poured out, but. the generally-approved plan is to let the fruit grow cold before covering it. In making jam, continual watchfulness is required, as the result of five minutes’ inattention may be loss and disappointment. There are other ways of pre- serving fruit besides making it into jam, such as drying, bottling, and candying. The recipes es these processes will be given in their proper places. Recipes for the following preserves will be found under their respective headings :— Probable cost, 10d. PRE ALMACK’S JARGONELLE PEars APPLES Lemon JvIcE APPLES FoR Winter Lemon Presi Us Lerruce STauxs Apricots 1v Jevty Limes Apricots, WHOLE on Macnum Bonum IN Hatves Prums _BARBERRIES Meton BEETROOT MUuLzBERRIES BIrFins NEcTARINES Buacx Currant Orance Pius CHERRIES Oraners, WHOLE CHERRIES IN SYRUP Cuerries, MorELLA OrancEs, WHOLE, CarvED CRANBERRIES Preacues In Branpy CucuMBERS Pxacurs, WHOLE Damsons Pzars Eees Pears, Rep Fics Piums GINGER Pumepxin Gincer, Imrration = Quincxs Gotpzn Preprs Srpgrran Crags GoosERERRIEs, STRAWBERRIES Green, 4s Hops SrrawsERRIES IN GoosEBERRIES, WINE GrerEen, WHOLE Tomators GrapEs TRUFFLES Grapes In Branpy Warer Meton GREENGAGES, Dry Rinp GREENGAGES IN Syrup Preserving Pans are used for boiling sugar and syrups. ‘They are usually made of copper, and require a well-regulated heat, for which charcoal stoves and hot plates are very convenient. Pressed Beef.—Take any number of pounds of the brisket of beef, as lean as can be obtained, and nicely salted. The beef may be bought salted of the butcher, or it may be salted at home. To do this, dissolve a quarter of an ounce of saltpetre in a little water, and mix with it two pounds of common salt and half a pound of moist sugar. Rub this pickle into the meat every morning for eight days, and turn it over each day.. Take it from the pan, drain, and bone it. The butcher will do this if desired. Put it into a saucepan with as much lukewarm water as will quite cover it, and put with it an onion stuck with two cloves, a large carrot, and a bay-leaf. Let the water boil up once, skim carefully, then draw the saucepan quite to the side of the fire, and sim- mer the meat as gently as possible till it is done enough. Lift the saucepan quite away from the fire, and leave, the meat in the liquor for half an hour. Take it out carefully, drain it, place it. between two flat dishes, and puta heavy weight on the top. Let it remain until the next day. Take off the weight, and glaze. the beef. The easiest way.of doing this is to buy a quarter of a pound of glaze of the grocer. This is sold in skins like sausages, and may be bought for 8d. or 9d. Peel the skin from an inch of this glaze, and put it into a jar with a table-spoonful of cold water.. Place the jar in a saucepan with about two inches of boiling water, and let it steam until the glaze is dis- solved. The water in the saucepan must not be allowed to flow over into the jar. Take an Winpsor Beans PRI ( 654 ) PRI ordinary gum brush which has been soaked in hot water to make it soft, and with it cover the surface of the meat entirely with the dissolved glaze. It ought to be laid lightly on. rather than brushed on, so as not to show’the marks of the brush. ‘When one coating of glaze is quite stiff, give the meat a second one, and, /if'liked, a third. Place the meat on a dish, garnish with parsley, and it is ready for serving. Time to simmer the meat, half an hour per‘ pound from the time the water ‘boils: after the meat is put in.. Probable cost, 9d. or 10d. per pound. - Prickly Pear, or Indian Fig.—This fruit is in the form of a fig or pear, with clusters of small spines on the skin, which enclose a fleshy pulp of a red’ or purple colour, and an agreeable subacid flavour. The plant’ which produces it is a native of Virginia and Bar- bary. The prickly pear is sent to the dessert’ in the West Indies. In countries where the fruit abounds it is considered very wholesome, and though the taste is not agreeable to all persons till they have eaten of it several’ times, yet they soon become very fond of it.’ It is now naturalised in many parts of the south of Europe, and north of Africa,’ and: in other warm countries. The prickly pear in somé countries is extensively employed'as ‘an article of diet. It is imported into Britain to a small extent from'the Mediterranean. Tn the south of England the plant grows in the open air, and occasionally ripens its fruit. Prince Consort’s: Pud three or four large lumps of sugar. upon the rind of a small lemon until all the yellow part is taken off, then crush them to powder with. a, little additional sugar to make up the weight to two ounces. Grate finely six ounces of stale spong e cake, pour over it half'a pint of’ boiling or cream, and add thé flavoured sugar and a pinch of salt. Let the crumbs soak’ until the milk ‘is cold, then beat the mixture ‘with'a fork, and stir into it the yolks of four eggs andthe white of one well whisked. Butter a mould thickly, and flour ‘it, ornament the inside ‘with'dried fruit,' pour in the mixture, and tie it over with oiled paper. ‘Put it ona plate turned upside down in a saucepan, and let there be two or three inches of boiling water round it; the water must not come sohigh as to. flow into'the pudding.’ When it is done enough, turn it out, and send jam and a good custard to table with it, or a sauce prepared as follows:—Pour a quarter of a pint of boiling milk ovér a téa-spoonful of arrowroot which has been mixed to a smooth paste with a little boiling milk. Sweeten it, and stir it over the fire for two or three minutes. Pour it out, and mix with it a quarter of a pound of any kind of fruit jelly, either red-cfirrant, raspberry, or cherry. The jelly should have been previously dissolved till it is'in a liquid state. The sauce may either be poured round the pudding or served in a tureen. Time to steam thepudding, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 1g. 2d., if made with milk, and exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for three or four persons. Prince Consort’s Pudding (another way).—Orumble six ounces of stale sponge cake. Pour over them milk flavoured with ce ing.—Rub.. ’ Pour it. round the pudding, and serve. | bake the pudding, ten to'fifteen minutes;:. Pro- - fresh butter to a cream. almonds prepared ‘as follows:—Blanch two ounces of sweet:almonds and four’bitter ones. Simmer them: softly-for half an hour in a quarter of a pint of milk, then pound them to a paste, and mix’ them again with the-milk. Add to the mixture a pinch of salt, two ounces of powdered sugar, ‘the yolks of four and the white of one egg, three table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and two:-of ‘brandy. Mix: these in- gredients: thoroughly, then pour ithe pudding into:a buttered mould, steam, and serve ac- cording to the. directions given in the previous recips.': Time to steam, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost; 1s. 6d, Sufficient for three or four. persons. i ? Prince Frederick’s Pudding.—Rub two or three lumps of':sugar upon the rind of a fresh ‘lemon ‘until all the yellow part is taken off. ° Crush it to ‘powder with additional sugar to make up the weight to four ounces. Beat separately the yolks-and whites of ‘six eggs, and, when they are thoroughly whisked, put them together, and add the flavoured sugar and the strained juice of the lemon. Butter a tin mould, and half fill it with the mixture. Bake in a quick oven. : ‘Serve'immediately before the pudding has time tofall. A sauce prepared:as follows may be sent to table with it:—Whisk two eggs thoroughly, and mix with them gradu-- ally.a glassful of sherry or madeira, Add 4 little sugar which has been rubbed upon lemon-rind and, powdered: Pour the mixture into:a sauce- pan, and stir it. briskly over the fire until it is: well. frothed and veryhot; it must not boil. Time to bable cost, 10d., exclusive of the sauce. Suffi- cient for three or four persons. . “5 Prince of Wales’s Ketchup.—Take some ripe élderberries, and strip off the stalks. Fill a jar with the fruit, pour over it: as much boiling vinegar as the jar will hold; put it ina cool oven, and let it’ remain there all night. Strain the liquid, and put with every.pint half | a tea-spoonful of salt, a blade of mace, four shallots, a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a dezen cloves, and two ounces of anchovies. ': Boil the liquid until the anchovies are dissolved,..and when it is quite cold strain it, and bottle: for use. This ketchup.is chiefly:used for fish. = Prince’s Metal, or Britannia Metal, Utensils, of.—One great advantage belong- ing to Prince’s metal, is that it takes 4 high polish, and does not tarnish’ ‘easily. ‘When kept perfectly bright it looks well, far excellin; pewter, and approaching in lustre ‘to’silver.’” Tt is not easily acted upon by acids, and is perfectly safé. One of the most valuable’ uses to which Britannia metal is applied’ is in the making of spoons, which are tot only brighter and more pleasing to the éye than those ‘of pewter, but less apt to bend. | fees Princes’ Pudding.— Beat two ounces of esh, but Add a table-spoonfy): of sifted sugar and the well-whisked yolks of three. and the white of one egg. ush an ounce and a. half of macaroons to. powder. ‘Stir this into the pudding, and pour in two table-spoonfuls of brandy... Beat, the pudding for some minutes, pour it into a well-buttered PRI ( 655 ) PRO tin, and bake in a well-heated oven. Turn it out before serving, and garnish with apri- cot or strawberry jam. This pudding may be served either, hot or.cold. Time to’ bake, ten to. fifteen minutes. ,.Probable cost, 10d. Suf- ficient for four or five persons. Princes’ Sauce for Broiled Fish and Salads.—Take a small handful of tar- ragon-leaves, burnet, chervil, and chives. Rinse them, throw them into boiling water, and let them boil gently for a few minutes; pour off the water, and squeeze them inacloth. Put them in amortar with three anchovies which have been washed, dried, and freed from bone and skin, the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, a dessert- epenyl of dry mustard, and a dessert-spoonful of capers. Put these ingredients in a mortar, pourid them well, and add very gradually two raw yolks of eggs, a quarter of a pint of salad-oil, and a ‘quarter:of a pint of’ tarragon vinegar. Rub the sauce through a fine hair sieve, and it is ready for use. Sufficient for a little more than half a pint. Princes’ Soup. — Take’ half a dozen turnips, and. with a vegetable cutter cut them into small balls the size of a marble. Put them into a stewpan with as much clear veal stock as will cover them, and let them simmer till tender; then pour over-them a pint and a half: of additional .stock, clear and bright, let it boil, and pour it.intothe tureen. Cut a slice or two from a stale loaf.less than a quarter of an inch . thick. Have these cut in rounds about three- | quarters of an inch in diameter. Throw them into a sauté pan with about an,ounce of but- ter, and shake them over the fire till they are brightly browned. Drain from the fat, and place them on Dlotting-paper to absorb the grease. Send them to table with the soup, and serve the crusts either on a separate dish or in -the tureen. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost: of turnips, 4d. to 6d. a bunch. . Sufficient for three or four persons. Properties, Nutritive, &c., of Food. —Several substances go to constitute the bodies of men and- animals. ‘Some of these substances from their containing nitrogen are called nitro- genous, others being destitute of that principle are termed non-nitrogenous ; besides these there are mineral constituents, and water. ; Of the nitrogenous substances of the animal body, the chief are—fibrine, met with in the bone and muscle; albumen and: globuline, found in the blood; and gelatine, in the bones, tendons, and ligaments. The principal non-nitrogenous constituent is fat. : is Vegetables have a composition in the main resembling that of animals. They also contain nitrogenous substances, though usually in- smaller amounts, and fat in them is represented for ‘the most part by starch and sugar. In some exceptional cases, however—in the seeds, for example, of various plants—fat or oil is met with. ' “The nitrogenous elements of the human body,” says the author of a valuable article on this subject in ‘‘ Food, Water, and Air,” “are capable, under some circumstances, of furnishing both fat and sugar; thus, there is evidence to show that the fatty part of milk and the sugur of diabetes are thence derived, at least to some extent:. Again, starch and sugar are sometimes transformed into fat, but the greater part of the fat of the body. is derived from that: contained in the food. : ae . “Notwithstanding this partial and occasio formation of. fat from the nitrogenous,.starchy; and saccharine elements of the food, yet each separate class is needed to sustain the body ina state. of health., Thus,, perfect health cannot be maintained: for. any length of time on nitro- genous food. alone, even with water and the. mineral. constituents ; and although it may be supported for a longer period on. such food combined with fat, yet, for perfect health, the albuminates, fat, and the carbo-hydrates, as sugar and starch, are all necessary, though how the latter. act in nutrition is not yet fully understood, since,,they do not enter into the composition of the tissues like, the, others. Further, it should be clearly’ understood that excess of lean meat increases the oxidation of | the fat; thus tending to, the reduction of obesity; excess of the carbo-hydrates acts in the same way. . . * Now, these: several nitrogenous and, non- nitrogenous ‘constituents of the food are con- stantly undergoing change and destruction in ministering to -the several necessities of the living animal organisation—as the growth, substance, and waste of the body, its heat, electricity, and.muscular force; and hence the necessity for a frequent supply of food. “The minerad constituents of the body are not less necessary than the albuminates, fat, and the carbo-hydrates, and equally require to: be renewed in. the food consumed. Thus, sulphur and Pca a are constantly present, com- bined chiefly with the albuminates. Phosphate of lime is found principally in the bones, teeth, and cells and tissues; phosphate of potash in the tissues and cells; chloride of sodium in the liquids; iron in the blood; and, lastly, carbonic acid, lactic, tartaric, acetic, and some other acids, which are converted in the system into, carbonic acid, are requisite to maintain the alkalinity of the body, the loss of which gives rise to scurvy: » \ ae ‘‘Again, the imbibition of a large quantity of water, daily. is-likewise a necessity, in order to endow many of the constituents of the food . —especially the albuminates with ‘certain physical properties, to render‘ them’ plastic, soluble, or the more readily reducible to a statc of solution; thus aiding absorption, nutrition, and elimination.” : A. “te There is thus, we see, between the composition of the body and the food consumed, whether animal or vegetable, the ,closest. possible re- semblance. Pie eee Having now seen what kinds of food’ are needed to keep the body in health, we come to look at the quantities required. The quantities of course vary’ according to age; weight, and. muscular exertion, but it has’ been determitied, :. by ‘numerous independent’ inquiries, that the food daily. consumed by.an adult man of aa weight—140 pounds—in moderate work, should , contain about the following quantities of the several classes of food, the figures given being PRO ( 636 ) PRO those of Melesholt, quoted by Parkes in his AY Carbo- valuable work on “ Practical Hygiene.” Water. ee Fats. ae, Salt, Ounces Nitrogen, Carbon. | Maize(Poggiale) 13°56 10:0 6.7 64:5 1-4 Dry Food. and Grains. Grains. Grains. | Pegg . . . . 15°0 22:0 2:0 53:0 24 Albuminous substances 4°587 3170 =—:1073°6 | Potatoes . 4 740 15 O71 284 1-0 Fatty substances . 2964 none 1024-4 | Carrots, all core . 3 3 : Garbo Hydration - . 14257 none 2769-4 excluded . SO OG 2b Oe OF Salts . 1058 =— — Cabbage . 91:0 02 O08 58 OF Butter - 60 O08 991 — 2&7 22°866 Eggs, less 10 “One ounce of dry albuminate contains per cent. for; 73°5 13:5 116 — 1:0 69 grains of nitrogen, and 234 of carbon; one | _ shell . ounce of dry fat, 345°6 grains of carbon, and | Cheese . 868 38:5 243 — 54 the same weight of either of the carbo-hydrates; Milk — (specific | 86-7 4:0 3:7 50 06 starch or sugar, 194°2 grains; or 100 grains of | _ gravity, 1030) albuminates contain 15°8 of nitrogen, and 53:5 | Milk Upacifi 90:0 30 25 39 O08 of carbon ; fat, 79 grains of carbon; and starch gravity, ve and sugar, 44° 4 grains Sugar ,. 30 — — 965 05 “But water, to the extent of between fifty and sixty-nine per cent., is contained in the food consumed, raising the amount to about forty ounces.’ Now, nearly the whole of the nitrogen and carbon contained in the chief articles of our food may be thus divided and distributed :— 16 oz. less one-fifth bone, Lean Raw Meat 14: cea eokely about 8 oz. Fat of Meat . 4 o2. Egg e é ‘ “ ‘j a b By Cheese é Te! 6 95 Butter . é a F De oa Bread. . + IS Potatoes . o 5 16 4, Other Vegetables ‘ : Be Gy Milk Be, “ud De dis Sugar. ee an GES: hs Having’ thus arrived approximately at the quality and quantity of the several kinds ‘of food required by an adult man of average size and weight, and in moderate work, it next becomes important to ascertain how each person may calculate for himself, and so ascertain the nutritive quality of his own or any other dietary. This important object may be accom- plished by the help of the following table from the work of Dr. Parkes, before quoted :— Tasie For Caucutatine Drers. < Carbo- Water, Albumi- Yots, “Hy- Salt. 5 drates, Lean Raw Meat, eee 75-0 15-0 Fattened Beef 63°0 84 — 16 (Gilbert and Lawes) Roast Meat (no dripping be- ing lost). Ranke (boiled, assumed to be the same). . Bread. 2... Flour. . . . Biscuit . . . Rice . . Oatmeal (Von Bibra). Oatmeal (Lethe- by) ... 14:0 190 — 3-7 54:0 27-6 5 492 1 0 703 1 3 734 #1 8 83°2 0° 8 2 6 3 _ — > Sons ooco — BH © nanoe 1 2 1: 5-0" 0 16:0 68 63:2 15-0 126 56 63-0 “The use e the above table is exceedingly simple. The quantity by weight of any of. the articles enumerated being known, the amounts of the albuminates, fats, and carbo-hydrates are easily calculated by a simple rule-of-three sum. Thus, supposing the allowance is twelve ounces of meat, one-fifth must be deducted for bone, the water in the remaining 9°6 ounces will be 75 x 9°6 100 for the other constituents.” The following tables, for which we are in- debted to the Catalogue of the Bethnal Green Food Collection, will be found highly interesting. In the first we have the results of actual experi- ments made to discover the maximum amount of force produced by one pound of various articles of food when oxidised in the body :— Tons raised one ascertained as follows: =7-2, and so on Name of Food. foot high. Cod-liver Oil . % a , - 5°649 Beef Fat i ‘ . . . 5626 Butter . ‘ a < . 4:507 Cocoa-nibs. : 5 ‘ - 4251 Cheshire Cheese . . ; + 2°704 Oatmeal i : we Be - 2489 Arrowroott . . . . . 2427 Flour. , ‘ a . 2383 Pea-meal 4 . ‘ : 2°341 Ground Rice . ji 3 - - 2°330 Gelatine 3 - 2°270 Lump Sugar . i . * - 2077 Yolk of Egg . i . - 2°051 Grape Sugar . : . : + 27083 Hard-boiled egg . 2 : 1-415 Bread-crumb . % 3 1°3383 The Lean of Boiled Ham. - 1-041 Mackerel : 3 - 1-000 The Lean of Beef . : - 0°885 The Lean of Veal . . 0°726 Guiness’s Stout. z - 0°665 Potatoes. 3 5 3 “ - 0°618 Whiting 2. 2...) 0491 Bass's Ale. # ‘i ‘ . 0-480 Apples : F - 0400 Milk : . 5 . 0°390 White of Eeg : . 7 + 0:357 Carrots . 5 5 é - 0°322 Cabbages 0-261 The maximum amount of mechanical work which one pound of each of the above substances can enable a man to perform (external work) is PRO ( 657 ) PRO about:one-tifth of the amount mentioned in the above-.table.. “It is not to be understood, from this,” say the compilers of the Catalogue, “that. taking one pound of cod-liver oil would enable a man to lift one-fifth of 5,649 tona (that is, 1,130 tons) one foot off the ground. What is meant is that that is the total mechanical work which the combustion in the body of one pound of the oil is capable of producing outside the body, supposing its effect to be wholly expended in the production of this mechanical work without any waste. Moreover, this statement of the amount of work in tons lifted one foot: does not take ¢ime at all into account: It simply reckons the total work which it is possible to get out of the combustion of one pound of cod-liver oil, no matter how long it may take to do it.”” The two following tables illustrate the application of the above data, the first giving the weight and cost (1866) of various articles of food required to be oxidised in the body in Sad to raise 140 lbs. to the height of 10,000 eet. ExrernaL Work = } Acruat Enerey. Weight in Ibs. Price Name of Food. required. per Ib. Cost. : s da. s. d. Cheshire Cheese 1156 0 10 O11} Potatoes . A - 5068 O 1 0 52 Apples. - 7815 O 14 0 113 Oatmea) . 1281 0 22 0 3% Flour ” . 1311 0 2 0 33 Pea-meal . 13385 0 33 O 42 Ground Rice 1341 0 4 0 54 Arrowroot 1:287 1 0 1 8 Bread 2345 0 2 0 4 Lean Beef 3532 1 «(0 3 64 Lean Veal E - 4300 1 0 4 34 Lean Ham, Boiled . 3-001 1 6 4 6 Mackerel . . - 3124 0 8 21 Whiting .. . . 6369 14 9 4 White of Egg . - 8745 O 6 4 4 Hard-boiled Egg 2209 0 64 1 Isinglass ‘ 1377 16 0 22 O04 i : 8-021 Sd.perqt. 1 34 Carrots. - 9685 0 14 1 2 Cabbages . . 12020 0 1 1 OF Cocoa-nibs . 0-735 1 6 1 1; Butter 0-693 1 6 1 0 Beef Fat . 0-555 010 #O 54 Cod-liver Oil 0553 «3 «6 111} LumpSugar . . 1505 06 1 3 Commercial Grape } 1537 0 3h 0 5% Sugar Bea s Bass’s ‘ale e 10d. (bottled). 4 pots pant Te Guiness’s Stont 62 ,, Do. 4 Our last table shows the wEIcHT of vaRIoUS ARTICLES OF FOOD required to sustain RESPIRA- TION and CIRCULATION in the body of an average man during twenty-four hours. Name of Food. ues: Cheshire Cheese 3°0 Potatoes . : . 13°4 Apples 5 . 20°7 Oatmeal : . 3-4 Flour. z . . : 3°5 Pea-meal .. . 35 42—n.E. Name of Food. soe Ground Rice Arrowroot . Bread Lean Beef . Lean Veal. , Lean Ham, Boiled Mackerel Whiting White of Ege . Hard-boiled Egg Gelatine 3 Milk Carrots Cabbage Cocoa-nibs Butter Cod-liver Oil Lump Sugar. : Commercial Grape Sugar All food is either of animal or vegetable origin. The former seems more allied to our nature, and is most easily assimilated to our nourishment; the latter, though digested with more difficulty, is the foundation of the former, as vegetables are the nourishment of animals, and all food is therefore properly derived from this source. The diet best suited to preserve a perfect state of health appears to be a combination of animal and vegetable food. There are few, says a medical authority, who subsist entirely on vegetables, and of these few the constitu- tions have generally inferior stamina. In hot climates a vegetable diet may be carried to a great extent without injury; while, on the other hand, some northern nations live almost entirely on animal food, and in a very cold atmosphere this may be indulged beyond what would otherwise be safe for the health of the body, so that a mixture of vegetable and animal nourishment appears best fitted for the health of mankind in general. In the matter of diet we are liable to commit errors, both as regards its quantity and quality. The error in the quantity is ordinarily ‘the worse of the two. It should never be forgotten that we are not nourished, as Dr. Abernethy used to say, by what we eat, but by what we digest. Nature is easily satisfied, and is usually best provided for when we do not intrude upon her more than a small and mo- derate quantity of the most digestible animal and vegetable food, at regular intervals of four hours through the day. ‘ : As to the quantity of food to be actually taken that must be regulated altogether by the appe- tite, the supply required, and the condition of health of the individual. The natural con- sequence of repletion is satiety, and before this takes place the stomach itself gives timely warn- ing. The weak, delicate, and sedentary require less food than the strong, robust, and active; infants need less than children, and children than adults. “There can be no doubt,” remarks Dr. Graham, “that the majority of the more respectable inhabitants of Great Britain eat and drink twice as much as is necessary and bene- ficial; and this is nearly equally true of the same class of persons in: most of the other & a wore FG 69 NOD D 00 aT] D eo fobs bo SOAREDANAMDHDHOKROKE OO tet PRO ( 658 ) PRO nations of Europe. It is a remarkable fact that almost all those who have lived to a great age have uniformly observed a very temperate diet, and in numerous instances of longevity it has been scanty and coarse.” a In regard tothe quality of our food, it ought to be varied in much the same way as. the quantity. A keen and healthy appetite calls for a daily supply of animal and other solid food, whilst the patient with a deficient and capri- cious: appetite will often derive most benefit from a vegetable diet. The sedentary and in- active, and those whose constitutions are natur- ally. delicate, do not require such nourishing food as those of a strong robust frame, and - others who are daily engaged in laborious work in the open air. Children need more animal food than infants, adults than children, men than women. ba tance ‘It may be safely said that the flesh of full- grown animals is much more digestible and nutritious than that of ‘their young, and as it respects the larger animals, ‘this rule is without an exception. Beef and mutton, for example; are more easily digested and more’ wholesome than veal or lamb; yet it may be proper some- times to give the preference to the latter in the case of patients‘who ate convalescent from acute diseases, because they are less likely directly to excite heat, or 'feverishness:’ Evén here, ‘how- ever, it will ‘be found’ that where'the stomach of the’ patient is very delicate and irritable, a little fender beef or mutton ‘will produce much less heat and general uneasiness than, either: veal or lamb, particularly the former.’ “It miay also be assumed, as a general rule, in chronic diseases and in health, that’a solid diet is more; digestible and’ better than a fluid one. In acute diseases it is the reverse. All-salted meats are with difficulty digested, and are unwholesome. Géierally speaking, the flesh' of tame animals is more wholesome than that of wild animals, the flesh of quadrupeds than birds, and that of birds than fishes.” " : eS sted oy e “There até,” says Dr. Dordn, “upwards of, seventeen hundred works extant on the subjéct of diet and digestion. ‘Sufferers may study the question till they are driven mad by doubt and’ dyspepsia and differences of opinions among thé doctors, Fordyce saw no use in the saliva, and Paris maintains that without it digestion is not. But Paris’s book’ on diet is the safest guide I’ mow for'a inan who, being dyspeptic, wants to” cute himself, or simply to discover the define.” ment of his sufferings. On the other hand, every” man may find comfort in the reflection’ that with‘ early hours, abundant exercise,’ generous dict, but‘nof too much of it, and occupation— without Which a worse devil than the former | enters on possession of the victim—dyspepsia eannot asstuié a chronic form. If may bea’ casual visitor, but it will be’ the easiest thing’ possible to get rid of him.” - _About the year 1823 some experiments. were made on the subject of digestion by Dr, Beau- mont, of Boston; United States, under rather extraordinary ¢ircumstances. The . result ., of these experiments is given in the following. Taste Suowine THE Mzan Timez or Dies. TION OF THE DrrFeRENT ARTICLES oF Drer. 6 table. showing the mean time'of digestion, .of°: various articles of diet :— re ny Time re- : Mode of aired for Articles of Diet. Preparation. Digestion. ; bm: Rice... . « Boiled. -. 1 46 Sago. 3 e . Ditto v+ 1 0 Tapioca. |. a . Ditto . - 2.0 Barley . « . 5 . Ditto » 20 Mik . . . . Ditto . 20 Ditto 4, - Raw. . 25 Gelatine, . Boiled . .. 230 Pigs’ Feet, Soused. _ Ditto - 106 Tripe, Soused. - . « Ditto . 1 0 Brains... . Ditto. . eo) Venison Steak . - Boiled . - 1 35 Spinal Marrow. . Ditto . 2 40 , Turkey, Domestic... Roasted 2 30 Ditto, ditto, . Boiled . 2 25 ' Turkey, Wild Roasted 2:18 : Goose Ditto . 2 30 Pig, Sucking . 5 Ditto - 230 Liver, Beef, Fresh . Boiled . 20 _ Lamb, Fresh Ditto 2 36 ‘Chicken, Full-grown Fricassee . 2 45 “Eggs, Fresh . é Hard-boiled. 3 30 Ditto 2. Soft ditto 3 0 Ditto .- . Fried . 3 30 Ditto. Roasted. 216 Ditto. ‘ ‘ Raw. e— Ditto, Whipped . Ditto . - 1306 Custard =. . Baked . 2 45 Codfish, Cured, Dry Boiled . 2 0 Trout, Salmon, Fresh Ditto 1 30 ' Ditto,’ ditto’ . e Fried . 1 30 Bass, Striped, Fresh’ . Broiled. . 8 0 Flounder, ditto . °° . Fried . 8 30 Catfish, ditto . '°"') Ditto - 3 30 Salmon, Salted’ Boiled . - 40 Oysters, Fresh. . Raw. . 255 ‘Ditto, ditto . : - Roasted . 816 Ditto, ditto . |. Btewed. - 8 80 ‘Beef, Fresh, Lean, Raw. Roasted 3 0 Ditto, ditto, Dry .- . Ditto . ‘ é 30 Ditto, ditto, Steak. Broiled. 4 oO Ditto, with Salt only' . Boiled. . 245 Ditto, with Mustard Ditto - 3 30 Ditto, Fresh, Lean.’ . Fried . - 4:0 Ditto, Old,‘ Hard, Salted ‘Boiled . . 415 Pork, Steak . j . Broiled. - 815 Pork, Fat and Lean Roasted . 6 16 Ditto, recently. Salted Boiled . . 4.30 Ditto, ditto . . . Fried . | 416 Ditto, ditto . 3 . Broiled. . 816 Ditto, ditto . é Raw . » 3.9 Pork, recently Salte Stewed . . 8 06 Mutton, Fresh 5 Roasted - 3.16 Ditto, ditto... Broiled . » 8 0. Ditto, ditto... Boiled. | ...3. 0 Veal, Fresh Broiled... 4 0 Ditto, ditto Fried.) 4°80 Fowls, Domestic Boiled . ~ 40 Ditto, ditto . Roasted - 40 Ducks, ditto . . Ditto -i.4 0 Ditto, Wild . A Ditto . » . 4 80 Suet, Beef, Fresh . Boiled . -' 64.3 Ditto, Mutton, . Ditto . § = 4°30 Butter . 5 7 Melted - 3 80 ‘Cheese, Old, Strong Raw 3°30 From these details, and the whole course of his: experiments, Dr. Beaumont drew a number of inferences, of which the. following were the most important :— Bort ig “Phat stimulating condiments: are injurious to the healthy stomach:” ' ~ 3 ve “That the use of ardent spirits always pro- duces disease in’ the stomach, if persevered in.” That the quantity of.food generally taken is more than the wants of the system require; and that such excess, if persevered in, gener- ally produces not only functional aberration, but disease of the coats of the stomach.” “That bulk as well as nutriment is necessary to the articles of diet.” . “That the digestibility, of aliment does not depend upon the guantity of nutrient principles that it contains.”’. Ake ‘“ That gentle exercise facilitates the digestion of food.” i ; : “ That, the time required for that purpose is various, | fas upon the quantity and quality.of the food, state of the stomach, &c.; but that the time ordinarily required for the dispersal of a moderate meal of the fibrous parts .of meat, with bread, &c., is from three to three and a half hours.” a. . Provencal Potagé, Bouillabaisse.— Take ony kind of fish, but the: best are whiting, | dory; haddock, or: ‘cad. ,-, Fillet: the fish _and \ trim it, Put in.a frying-pam an onion sliced,. a.elove of garlic, some pargley finely chopped, PRO ( 659 ) PRU z wn Time re- | a bit of lemon or orange-peel, some,salt, pepper, Mode of . quired for : . ns Articles of Diet. “Preparati ‘rection | Sbice, saffron, with a pint of water, a table- - at ereeaatSt Bigestion spoonful of oil and a glass of fee wine for Soup, Beef, Vegetables, '' each pound of fish. Add the fish filleted,, Stir and Bread . . . Boiled . . 4 © | the potage, and put. it on a. quick fire for, a Soup, Marrow-bones Ditto . . 416 | Quarter of an hour till. it bubbles. Let it remain Ditto, Beans . . -Ditto 3 0 | now on the fire for five minutes; add a, bit, .pf Ditto, Barley . Ditto 1°30 | butter mixed with flour, and serve. Fennel Ditto, Mutton . Ditto 3 30 | and bay-leaf may be added, if liked. oh Green Corn and Beans . Ditto . 345 | Provencal Potage, Bouillabaisse Chicken Soup. Ditto. . 3 0 | (another way).—This way is for mackerel, sar- Oyster ditto . : . Ditto . 8 80 | dines, herrings, or any other rich fish. Take Hashed Meat and Vege- the fish and cut them in fillets. Put in a stew- tables... , ‘ . Warmed . 2 30 | pan some leeks cut fine. Add some oil, or a Sausage, Fresh Broiled . . 8 20 | little melted. butter, then put in the fish, well Heart, Animal | Fried . . 4 0 | floured. Let them brown well, turning, t Tendon . : ‘ . Boiled . - 6 30 ets during five or six minutes. Adda glass lage . 3. =. Ditto . 415 | of water for every guest who is to partake of Aponeurosis . . . Ditto 3 0 | the potage, along with an onion, cloves, lemon- Beans, Pod . - . Ditto 2 30 | peel, pepper, salt, spice, and saffron, dissolyed: Bread, Wheaten, Fresh Baked . . ©3 30 | in butter or oil. Boil quickly for a quarter of Ditto, Corn . ‘ - Ditto . 3 16 | an hour; ddd a roux; let the potage remain for Gake, ditto. . Ditto . 8. 0 | five’ minutes at the fire, and then serve as in Ditto, Sponge. .. . Ditto . . 2 30 | the last recipe. ee: “3 Dumpling, Apple... Boiled. « 3 0 Proven¢ale Sauce.—Put a spoonful of Apples, Sour and Hard. Raw . . 2 60 | salad oil into a stewpan with a clove of garlic, Ditto, ditto, Mellow «Ditto - 2 0 | a table-spvonful of chopped shallots, and three Ditto, Sweet ditto . Ditto . - 1 30 | table-spoonfuls of chopped raw mushrooms. Stii* Parsnips - Boiled . - 2 30 | these ingredients over the fire for five minutes,. Carrots, Orange Ditto - 3 16 | then'add a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a glass- Bett . .. - Ditto . - 3 45 | ful of sherry, half a tea-spoonful of pepper- Turnips, Flat. . . Ditto . . 3 30 | corns,and half a blade of mace. Simmer gently Potatoes,Irish . . Ditto - 3 30 | fora quarter of an hour. Take out the herbs Ditto, ditto . Roasted - 2 80 | and garlic,-and add two table-spoonfuls more Ditto, ditto Baked . + 2 380] stock, and’a little salt if required. Simimer five Cabbage Head Raw 2 30 | minutes, carefully skim the sauce, rub it through Ditto, with Vinegar Ditto . 2 0] a fine hair-sieve, heat it again, and serve very’ Ditto, ditto Boiled . 4 30 | hot. A téble-spoonful of lemon-juice should. be added‘at the last moment, or, if preferred, three or four ripe tomatoes may be boiled in the sauce until they are soft enough to pass through the sieve. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain: Sufficient for four or five persons. Prune ‘Pudding. — ‘Wash and stone a pound of prunes. Blanch the kernels, and simmer them with three-quarters of a pint of water, a glassful of port, and a table-spoonful of sugar, till they are quite soft. Line a mould with pieces of the crumb of bread which have. been soaked in clarified butter. Pour in the stewed prunes gently, so as not to displace the bread, and add a table-spoonful of marmalade. Cover the fruit with a layer of bread, tie a piece of buttered paper over the top, and bake ina moderaté oven. Or, stew the fruit as abaye, mix with it half an ounce of dissolved isinglass, pour it into a mould, and when it is set, tum, out, and serve. Time to bake, one hour, Pro-: bable cost’ of prunes, 4d. to Is. per poun@. Sufficient for six or eight persons. i 4 Prune Pudding (another ee a tea-cupful of flour to a smooth taste with a. little cold milk. Add two well-beaten eggs, a pinch of -salt,.and as much milk as will make, a rather thick batter. Wash half a, pound of prunes, and simmer them in a little; water till they are quite soft. Drain off the liquid, take out the stones, sprinkle a little flour: . over the prunes, and then stir. them into the., pudding. Dip a cloth into boiling water; | PRU ( 660 ) PRU wring it well, and dredge a little flour over it. Pour the pudding’ into it, and tie it securely, but leave a little room for the pudding to swell. Plunge it into boiling water, and keep the pud- ding boiling until it is done enough. Serve with sweet sauce. Time to boil, two hours. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Prune Roly- oly Puddi fo and stone a’ pound of prunes. lanch’ the kernels, and put them into a stewpan with the fruit, a table-spoonful of moist sugar, half a pint of water, and a glassful of port. Boil the prunes to a thick paste. Roll out a piece of pastry, such as is used for boiled pudding, a third of an inch thick. Spread the fruit upon it, moisten the edges, and make it into a roll. Fasten the ends securely. Tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil it quickly till done enough. Send wine sauce to table with it. Time to boil, about two hours and a half. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Prune Sauce for Puddings.—Wash a quarter of a pound of prunes, and simmer them in as much water as will cover them until they are quite soft. Drain and stone them, and blanch the kernels. Put fruit and kernels into a stewpan with the liquid in which they were boiled, a glassful of wine, the strained juice of half a lemon, a small strip of thin lemon-rind, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and a pinch of powdered cinnamon. Simmer gently for ten minutes, then rub the sauce with the back of a. wooden spoon through a coarse sieve. If the pulp is too thick, dilute it with a little water. Time, one hour. Probable’ cost of prunes, 4d. to 1s. per pound. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Prunes and Prunelloes.—Prunes and prunelloes are a sort of dried plums, of which there are many varieties. The finest prunes come to us from France, large quantities being exported from Bordeaux. The best prunes are packed in hampers or baskets made of white osiers, weighing from six to ten pounds each. Prunes, when stewed, form an excellent article of diet for convalescents or persons in delicate health, as they act as gentle laxatives. Prunes, Stewed, for Dessert.— Wash the prunes, and let them soak all night in as much water as will cover them. ‘ Lift them out, and let the liquid stand a little while, then drain it from the sediment, and put it into a stewpan with a small quantity of sugar, if desired, and a little lemon-rind.and cinnamon for flavouring. Stew gently for half an hour.: Add as much wine as may be wished—port is the most suitable for the purpose—and stew twenty minutes longer; serve cold, in a glass dish. Probable cost of prunes, 4d. to 1s. per pound. , Prunes, Tisane of, for Irritation of the Throat.—This simple beverage, if sipped in small quantities at intervals, will greatly re- lieve irritation of the vocal organs. ‘If it is too sweet to be agreeable it may be diluted with water, or even sharpened with strained lemon- juice. Boil half a pound of prunes in a quart of water for three-quarters of an hour, and keep up the quantity of the liquor by adding a little fresh water occasionally. Pour off the liquor, and when cold it is ready for use. Few children will refuse to eat the prunes after they have been boiled. Probable cost of prunes, 4d. to ls. per pound. Sufficient for a quart of liquor. Prussian Balls.—Knead half a pound of flour with half an ounce of fresh yeast and as much milk as will make a stiff dough. Put it into a bowl, throw a warm cloth over it, and set it by the fire to rise. When it is light, mix it up with an ounce and a half of clarified butter, two well-beaten eggs, and a table-spoonful of powdered sugar flavoured with lemon-rind, and knead it until it leaves the sides of the bowl in a lump. Make it into little balls, insert inside each one a tea-spoonful of good jam, and close the aperture. Put the balls on a floured paper, and lay this on a tin; put it in‘a warm place, and let them rise once more. When light, throw them into hot fat, and fry till they are lightly and equally browned all over. Drain them well, serve on a hot dish, and sift powdered sugar thickly over them. ‘Time, five minutes or more, according to size. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Prussian Cutlets.—Take a pound of lean meat—beef, mutton, or veal—and two ounces of fat Cut it into dice, and mix with it a little salt and pepper, and four ounces of bread-crumbs,. a dessert-spoonful of finely-minced onion, and. the eighth of a nutmeg grated. Mix the meat with the seasoning, and bind it together with egg yolk. Divide it into portions the size of an egg, press it well together, and make it up into the shape of cutlets. Stick a little piece of bone in at the narrow end, and brush the cutlets over twice with beaten egg. Sprinkle grated bread-crumbs thickly over them, and fry in hot fat over a slow fire till they are brightly browned, then brush them over with glaze. Place them in a circle round a hot dish, and put a mound of, hot dressed vegetables in the centre. Send good brown gravy, tomato, Robert, or onion sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry the cutlets, ten minutes. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, one or two for each person. _ Prussian Soup.—Cut two heads of celery into small pieces, and put them into a stewpan with three ounces of dripping, two carrots, two turnips, two onions, two leeks, and a pound of potatoes; the vegetables must all be cut up small. Fry until they are soft, which will be in about twenty minutes. Put with them half a pound of lean beef or mutton cut into slices, cover the saucepan closely, let the ingredients steam gently for an hour, and be very careful that they do not burn. Pour over them two quarts of water, and add a pint of split peas soaked for twelve hours or more. Bring the liquor to the point of boiling, and skim care.’ fully. Draw it back, and let it simmer for three hours. Press the vegetables through a co- lander, season the soup with salt and pepper, and, if liked, a little dried mint; boil it up again, and serve very hot. The peas may, if PRU ( 661 ) PUB liked, be omitted, and a little brown thickening may be boiled with the soup. This economical dish is very popular in Prussia, hence its name. Time, five hours or more, according to the quality of the peas. Probable cost, 4d. a pint. Sufficient for six or eight persons. : Prussienre Charlotte (see Charlotte, Prussienne). Ptarmigan.— The ptarmigan, or white grouse, is found on the summit of mountains, in cold bleak situations, and is keenly sought after by many sportsmen. Its flesh has a pecu- liar and bitter taste, much relished by epicures. It should be hung as long as possible before being dressed. It is about the same size as the red grouse. Ptarmigan, Roasted.—Hang the birds as long as possible. Pluck and draw them carefully, and truss like grouse. Baste liber- ally, and just before they are done enough flour and froth them nicely. Serve very hot, either on fried bread-crumbs or on buttered toast, and send brown gravy and bread sauce to table with them. Time to roast, half an hour. Probable Sore Ae: 6d. to 2s. 6d. each. Sufficient, two for a dish. Ptarmigan Salad.—Take the remains of cold roast ptarmigan, or, if liked, roast a bird specially for the purpose, and in this case let it be slightly under-dressed. Cut it into neat joints, and lay these aside until wanted. Wash any fresh salad that may be in season in salted water, and dry it carefully by putting it' after it has been washed, a small quantity at a time, | into a dry napkin, and then taking this up by the four corners and shaking the moisture from it. Put a layer of the salad at the bottom of a dish, lay the inferior joints of the bird upon it, and cover each piece with sauce. Cover these with the remainder of the salad, and lay the rest of the bird upon it; pour sauce over the whole, and serve. The sauce may be made as follows :—Beat the yolk of an egg for a minute. Mix with it a large pinch of salt, half a tea- spoonful of powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful of finely-minced shallot, and the same of chopped parsley, tarragon, or chervil. Stir in, first in drops and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, four table-spoonfuls of best salad-oil, and beat the sauce briskly between each addition. Add gradually two table-spoonfuls of chilli vinegar, and: set the sauce in a cool place till it is wanted. Before using, mix with it a quarter of a pint of thick cream. The salad should not Je arranged upon the dish until just before it is wanted. It may be garnished in any way that fancy dictates. It looks very pretty as follows :—Place a thin flat rim of butter round the dish on which the salad is to be served. Cut four hard-boiled eggs into half-quarters lengthwise, and stick the pieces upon the butter, placing the yolk and the white alternately to the outside. Arrange round the salad, and rest- ing upon the top of the eggs, a sort of trellis- work of beetroot cut into thin slices. Pour the white sauce over the salad, and sprinkle over it half a dozen parsley-leaves broken into small pieces. Serve as soon as possible after the sauce is poured on. A salad garnished in this way would have to be served on a flat dish, and not ina salad-bowl. Time, half an hour to roast the bird. Sufficient for five or six per- sons. Probable cost of ptarmigans,. 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. each. i Public Dietaries.—For the following details.on this subject we are indebted to the ‘Inventory of the Food Collection” at Bethnal Green Museum, to which we are already under obligation. The experience of nations in the support of persons depending upon public diets, such as the soldier, sailor, pauper, or prisoner, gives data for determining the quantity of flesh-formers and force-pro- ducers required for support under different conditions, however varied may be the sub- stances composing the dietaries. It is curious to observe the amount of flesh-formers and of the carbon (charcoal) in the food of soldiers and sailors in different countries. Carbon is the element which chiefly determines the value of the force-producers. As a general rule, men in fighting condition require a daily supply of five or six ounces of flesh-formers and ten ounces ,of carbon. The English soldier requires, both in this country and in India, five ounces daily of flesh- formers in food. This must also contain ten ounces of carbon. The English sailor requires five ounces of ' flesh-formers in food, and consumes daily ten ounces of carbon. In his salt meat dietary he has nearly six ounces of flesh-formers daily, and twelve ounces of carbon. This may be neceesary, from the less digestible nature of the ‘ood. The Dutch soldier when in war receives five ounces daily of flesh-formers in his food, to- gether with ten ounces and a half of carbon. ‘When living in peace, or in garrison, he has a lower diet, in which there are only three ounces and a half of flesh-formers and ten ounces of carbon. He is no longer in “ fighting condi- tion.” The French soldier, although his diet is of a very different description from the soldier of our own country, receives nearly the same amount of flesh-formers in his food—namely, four ounces and three-quarters, and twelve ounces of carbon. The French soldier, unlike the Dutchman, is thus always kept in “fighting condition.” ‘When the British soldier retires to Chelsea Hospital, or the sailor to Greenwich Hospital, he does not require such a large amount of flesh-formers in his food: these are reduced to between three and four ounces daily. To be exact, Greenwich pensioners have three ounces and a half of flesh-formers and ten ounces of carbon daily in their food. Pensioners of Chel- sea Hospital have four ounces of flesh-formers and nine ounces and three-quarters of carbon daily. Paupers in workhouses, not being exposed to much labour, require less flesh-formers in food than active soldiers and sailors. Taking the average of all the workhouses in the kingdom, it is found that paupers have daily three ounces and a quarter of flesh-formers and eight ounces and a quarter of earbon. Puc ( 662) PUD Boys ten years ‘old at schdol ¥edeive’ about . ‘one-half the flesh-formers ‘df active miefi, and about three-fourths the quantity °0f carbon. The boys of the’ Royal Naval Schoul at Green: wich have two ounces and a half. of ‘flesh-' formers and.seven, ounces and a half of carbon | in their food daily. The boys of Christ's Hospital, London, have daily ‘two ounces and a half’ of. flesh-formers ‘art@ seven ounces: of carbon. — eae Pe Olea Puchero, Spanish.—This: is'a Spanish ' soup. Like the “pot-au-feu.” in France, it ap- | “pears daily atthe tables of families in Spain. Take two pounds of brisket of beef, place them ° dn an earthen stock-pot with a pig’s ear, the gib- Jets of a chicken, half.a pound of blanched ham -or salted pork, and three handfuls pf. softened _ “garbancos,” Moisten the meats with five or six quarts of water, put the stock-pot on the fire, -akim, and when the liquid begins-to boil, set it on one side. After two hours, add to the soup: two leeks tied, together, a bunch of chervil, a: “pinch of wild mint, a slice of good pumpkin. 4rom which the,peel and. seed have been re- moved, a large carrot, a head of cabbage-lettuce, and -half.a blanched savoy cabbage. After -another hour add a ‘‘choriso,” and continue to ‘boil moderately., Before serving, remove the :stock-pot from the fire, pass. the soup gently ' sthrough a sieve into a, stewpan, and-from that -pour it into a tureen. Add. the leeks and let- tuces cut up, and. some: slices of fried toast. Place the beef on a dish, surrounded with the “‘choriso,” the vegetables, and the ham. The meats appear ‘at. table with the soup. To be thoroughly appreciated, puchero must be eaten in, Spain. ee ie ~" Pudding-Moulds (see Tlustration ac- ‘companying’ the article on’ Aunt Elizabeth's Pudding).’ . Do Fe eae Pudding-Pies.—Put ‘a pint of milk into a saucepan: with a little thin lemon-rind, mix with it two ounces of ground rice, and keep it stirred over the fire until it ig thick and free -from lumps. Pour it into a bowl, stir into it a piece ‘of. butter the size of a walnut, and, add a; pinch of: salt, two table-spoonfuls of white sugar, a little grated nutmeg, two eggs, anda heaped table-spoonful of currants. Stir the, rice occasionally , until it is cool... Line some large patty-pans with good. pastry rolled vorythin, three-parts: fill them, with the mix- ture, andbake in,a gentle oven... These pud- dings, may, be made larger, by increasing the quantities in the proper proportion, and richer -by putting in a little more butter, and an additional egg or two. If liked, the currants can be strewed over the pudding-pies just before they are put. into the oven instead of being stirred into it. ,Time to bake, a quarter ofan hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for ‘five or six persons. Pudding Sauce, Carémes _ (the Clfandat).— eat the: yolks of two eggs, to which add half a pint of madeira and’ four ‘ounces of pounded sugar. Set-this upon cmbers ‘or a slow fire, and mill’it with a chocolate mill. ‘It will thicken and become smooth, and is a ‘Superior pudding sauce. Servé in a sauce- ‘tureen, attd-the moulded pudding without sauce. The chand6t answers well for all kinds of plum or othetirich puddings. nen fe SF a ale! ‘Pudding Sauces, Sweét.—When any ‘unusual sauce is appropriate to a pudding, the recipe is either given in this work with it, or’a reference is:made.to it. The most, usual sauces for puddings are—sweetsauce, wine sauce, arrow~ root sauces, and fruit sauces. They are made as ‘follows’ 2—Sweet Sauce.-Sweeten..a little. good teres ‘melted bitter, and flavour it with grated lemon- ‘rind, nutmeg, or powdered cinnamon.’ Strew a ‘Tittle of the grate: over the top, and serve in ‘a tureen: A littlé wine or ‘brandy may be added at pleasure. - This: sauce is ‘suitable for almost all ordinary ‘boiled! puddings. . Wine Sauce.—Boil the thin rind of half .a lemon or ‘half an‘orange: in a wine-glassful of water till the flavour is extracted. .Take out the rind, and, thicken the sauce by stirring into it a -salt:spoonful. of flour which has been mixed ‘smoothly |with a piece of. butter the size of a ‘walnut.,, Boil for a minute, then add half a ‘tumblerful ;of any. good wine. , Let the sauce get quite hot, without, boiling, sweeten, and serve. If port is used, the juice of the lemon may be added. A Superior Wine Sauce.—Take half a tumblerful, of light wine (madeira or sherry), and mix thoroughly with it the well- beaten yolks of two eggs. Place the jar in boiling water, add a little sugar, and whisk over the fire till it ig nicely frothed. ' Serve at once. Arrowroot Sduce.—Mix a table-spoonful of _arrowroot smoothly, with a little cold water. “Add the third of a pint of water, a’ glassfil of wine, the juice of a lemon, and sugar and flavouring. Stir the sauce over the fire till it boils. ‘This sauce may be varied by omitting the wine, and using milk or milk-and-water ‘with the arrowroot. , The juice of almost any fruit, too, may, be boiled with the arrowroot. Fruit Sauces.—Boil fruit (almost any kind may be used) with a little’ water until it is quite soft. Rub it with the back of a wooden spoon through a fine sieve. Sweéten to taste, make it hot, and pour the sauce over the boiled or steamed puddings... Puddings.—Without pretending to make a ‘skilful cook by book, we believe: that any in- telligent beginner may'compourid'a good pud- ding by attending to-the following simple rules and plain directions :——Attention is all that is required, and a little manual dexterity in turn- ing’ the pudding out of the mould or cloth. Let -the several ingredients be each fresh and good of its kind, as one ‘bad article, particularly eggs, will taint the whole composition. Have the moulds and pudding-cloths carefully washed ‘when used, the cloths with wood ashes, and dried in the open air. ‘Lay:them aside sweet and thoroughly dry.’ Puddings ought to be put into plenty of boiling water, which must. be kept upon a quick boil; or baked, in general in a sharp but not scorching oven.’ A pudding in which there is much bread must be tied loosely, to allow room for swelling. A batter pudding ought to be tied up firmly. - Moulds should be quite full, well buttered, and covered with a fold or two of paper floured and buttered. | Eggs for puddings must be used in greater PUD ( 663 ) PUD quantity when of small size. The yolks -and whites, if the pudding is wanted “partietilarly light and nice, should be strained afte¥’ ‘being separately well beaten. JERSEY BakepD Scuopox - VEAL AND. MacaRont JEwisH ALMOND Orancre MARMALADE SEMOLINA Vea JUBILEE Orueans [AND BREAD SHROPSHIRE VEGETABLE Jupy's OxrorpD SNIPE VERMICELLI Kentisu Suet PaLEsTINE Snowpon VERMICELLI, BAKED KxpNEY PanraDISE Sourrié VERMICELLI, BorLED Kroney ann Liver Paris Sousz ‘Vicr-CHANCELLOR’S Lapy ABBess’s PaRLIAMENT SPanisH ‘VicToRIA LamMartINne’s PartTRipGE SPONGECAKE VIRGINIA Lams Pastz, Svxzt, FoR STRAWBERRY AND WarER Larks In BATTER Pras {Bornep CustarD WELSH LEAMINGTON Pras, SUPERLATIVE SrrawBerry Hy- West Country Leicester PEasant’s Svzr [prRopaTHIc West Inpran Lemon, Bakep PeEninsuLa SuMMER WHITE Lemon, Baxzp, Picexon Sussex Wuitine Puan Pine APPLE Swiss WHOLESOME FarE Lemon, Bortep Pum (several) Swiss Cocoanut ‘WILBERFORCE Lemon BrREApD, Ptiumpis ARROW- TapcasTER ‘WILTSHIRE BakepD Ponenta [Roor Tansy ‘WINDsoR Lemon Breap, Powisu Tapioca (several) Woopcock Borep PomMrret Tapioca aNnD APPLE YANKEE PuppIne Lemon Roty-po.y Pompapour TEau Yorxsume ([Savcz Lirritze Mary’s Cur Poor Ericure’s Tinnep Meat Yue Liver . Poor Kyieut’s TIVERTON ZANDRINA eo ee Puddings for Tnvalids.— ‘The simpler Macaront, Puan PortTLAND end Hebi pudaiee Zr eee bac eae Macaroon PorruavssE eas) ey be digested. a OF oraney. MaprErra Poraro (several) should only be put into them when specially Maponna Prince Consort ordered, and as to sugar, cream, and flavouring, Miers Prince Freperrcx’s | the taste of the patient should be ascertained before they are added. Sick people have MANCHESTER PRunEs Taw - Manparin Puppine in Hastg generally a great,objection to highly-flavoured dishes, The following is a light little pudding, Manna Croup Puppine Piss : and can be quickly prepared:—Beat a tea- MansFIELD Puppine Sauce afal of four t th past d MarcHIonEss Puppine For Inva- | Spoontul o: EAE a : boilin paste, oni Pik Mar.tporover Purr [ups | Over it a tea-cupful of boiling milk, whic 8 been lightly flavoured with lemon or cinnamon. MaARMALADE,ORANGE PuMPKIN ‘Add a vi f salt and nful of Marrow PurITAN’s a pinch of salt and a tea-spoonful of sugar, f and stir until the latter is dissolved. When the Marrow, Bakep oR QUAKING. ade fe Se oe : Mary’ 2 ’ milk is cold, strain it, and stir into it a well- x’s (Borrep QuzEEN ADELAIDE'S b DP th tard: into a battered Meat Quzen Mas’s eaten egg. Pour the custard into a buttere: basin, and bake in a moderate oven. Turn it out upon a hot plate, and, if approved, serve with a glassful of sherry or a little jam. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 3d. Puddings in Haste. — Take a cupful each of fine-shred suet, finely-grated bread- | crumbs, and picked and washed currants. Mix these ingredients with two table-spoonfuls ef sugar, a little grated nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of sliced peel, and a pinch of salt. When the dry ingredients are well mixed, make them up into a light paste with two well-beaten eggs and half a cupful of milk. Wring some small cloths out of boiling water, flour them, and tie in each a small tea-cupful of the mixture. Plunge them into boiling water, and boil quickly. Turn them out on a hot dish, sprinkle white sugar thickly over them, and serve. Time te boil, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. PUD ( 666 ) PUF Puddings Sauce for Pudd: ee Puddings, Prune Sauce for (see Prune, Sauce), Puddings, Sweet, Punch Sauce for (see Putich Sauce). _ Puddings, Sweet Sauce for (see,Polish Sauce for Sweet Puddings). ze Puddings, Sweet Sauce for (see Paris Sauce for Sweet Puddings). aa Puffets, American (for Breakfast).— Cream eight ounces of butter; add eight’ ounces of sugar and six eggs. Mix a pound and a half of flour ‘with a pint and ahalf of milk; add the sugar, &c., a small. cupful of yeast, and half a pound more flour. Let the. mixturerise. Bakein patty-pansiand serve hot.. Puffin.—The size, of the common puffin is. not much greater than that of a pigeon. Thesé, birds may be found congregating together in large numbers—fayourite breeding-places being covered with puffins, old and young, in thou- sands. Their haunts are chiefly unfrequented islands and headlands where there is some depth of soil. The flesh of the young birds is used as food. Puffins are easily captured: the ap- proach of man does. not readily frighten them, and many are captured by means of a noose at the end of a rod. This bird was formerly ‘permitted by the Church to be used as food on Lenten days; but ‘its flesh, unless pickled and ‘spiced, is disagreeable, sttong, and fishy. ‘ Puff Paste (see Paste Puff, or Feuille- tage). i > tee Puff Paste, Freneh.—Take the same quantity of butter as of flour, so that if you use two pounds of the one you must also use two pounds of the other; and so on. ‘ Weigh two pounds of very dry flour, and sift it; then lay Plum Sauce for (see: Plum ings and Sweet Dishes)s). ~ it on the table, and make.a very large hole in | the middle; throw in a little pinch of''salt, a few small pieces of butter, and three yolks of eggs; use a little cold water to melt the salt; take water enough to make the paste of the same consistency as the butter. In winter you must make the paste very firm, because then the butter is so;'\in summer you must make the paste very soft, on account of the butter being the same. The reason you are obliged to do so'is, that if the paste were not made of the same substance as the butter, the latter, when you turn the paste, would break through. When you have worked the flour lightly, mould it into a large ball, which flatten as quickly as possible; turn it into a spiral direction, and flatten the middle.. Lay butter, on the table, with a little water, handle it to extract the white liquid, and squeeze it in a clean towel, that no moisture may remain. Lay the ball of butter over the paste, flatten the butter with a cloth, then fold the paste over the butter all round, but in w square form, so as to wrap it well all over. Try whether the paste is firm cnough to prevent the butter from breaking through it. Now powder/a little flour over the table and the paste, Roll the paste as smooth as possible withthe rolling-pin. as'long’as you can; fold it-in-three, and. roll. it over once again, taking care: always to powder: it over with a very little flour, to prevent it'sti¢king to the table or to the rolling-pin. After'having spread it well; fold it again in three. '’Make two marks on the top with 'the rolling-pin, to remember that it has been rolled twice. ‘Then put it into a'plafond trimmed with a little flour ::place it on the ground to keep it ‘cool, and leave it. there for a little while. ‘Shortly _after put the paste.on the dresser, and'probeed — twice more'as before; then let it rest apain, and give it two turnings more, which makes six in all. Now give ‘it a long shape,'and fold it in two. . You may then use it to make a vol- an-vent: when,.at the latter end, fold the'paste double only, and that is what is. called half a turning. Of course you are aware that the paste must have had‘six turnings and a half: before you. can make a‘vol-au-vent, and that you must keep the paste thicker than for other small articles of pastry. ‘Cut the vol-au-vent the size of the dish in which it is to be.sent up, and immediately after put it into a plafond; brush it over with yolks of egg, open it all round with the point of the knife, and put it in a very hot oven. Mind that puff paste Always requires the oven to be very hot. If you are not careful to keep the oven shut the yvol-au-vent will not rise properly. When it is well baked a fine colour, and you are certain that it is done through; take it out of the’ oven, remove the middle which served as-a cover, empty and throw away ‘the paste of the middle which is not baked,’ and Jay the vol-au-vent cleanly on some paper to extract the butter. When you are ready to serve up, dish the vol-au-vent, and fill it with whatever you: think proper. With regard to small, .articles :of : pastry, spread more ‘puff paste, and cut it with cutters of different shapes; if intended for entrées; brush ‘the paste over with: yolks of eggs, but do. not glaze it with sugar.' By glazing.is here meant the sifting of finely-powdered sugar. over ‘the pastry: when ‘baked and emptied, and ‘using over it a red-hot salamander, or else putting it into a very hot:-oven for.the sugar.to melt and glaze. the ig 2 \ Puff Paste,’Household.—Beat out the water from ten ounces of butter. Rub two ounces of this into a pound of flour till it is quite fine, and add a pinch of salt. Whisk the white of an egg, and mix with it the juice of a lemon and a' small quantity of water. Stir this into the flour to make a paste. Roll it out, and be careful to roll it one way and straight from you.’ Roll out the remainder of the butter, lay it on the paste, sift a little flour over it and the rolling-pin, fold the paste into three, and roll it out twice. Let it lie ‘in a cool place for some time; an hour will do, but twelve hours will be better. Before using it roll it out very thin; it can scarcely be too thin,’ Bake in a quick oven. Be careful to handle the paste as lightly’ as possible, and. to make it in a cool place with cool hands. Puff Paste Patties, or Small Vol- au-Vents.—Make some puff paste. Give it eight turns, and put it in a cool place or on ice PUF '( 687 ) PUL '- for’ a’ little while, then roll it out to the thick- _ ness of a quarter of aninch. © Take two plain ‘or fluted pastry-cutters, one half the'size of the other. Dip: the larger into hot water, and stamp out as marty’ rounds as are required. Place these on a baking-sheet, and brush them over with ogg, then dip the smaller cutter into hot. water, and press it about half through. the rounds in the centre. Bake in a quick oven, and when they are done enough take out the small, rounds of crust from the top with a sharp knife, and scoop out the crumb and the soft part from, the inside. Before sending them to table fill the inside with any one of the different kinds of patty meats. These are com- posed, of savo minces, made of poultry, game, or fish. ay the little lid on the top, and serve. ‘Time to bake the patties, eighteen to twenty minutes. : - Puff Paste Rings or Pyramids (a pretty dish for a Juvenile Party).—Roll out some good puff paste to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it out first in a round the size of the inside of the dish upon which the pastry is to be served, and aftor- wards in rounds, gradually de¢reasing in size,. until one is cut to lay on the top of the pyra- mid. Brush these rings over with egg, and bake them separately on baking-sheets till they are done enough. Lay them one on the top of the other in. gradation, spread bright- coloured jam of different colours on the rims, and crown the pyramid with a dried apricot, or any suitable ornament. If liked, three or four small pyramids may be made instead of . one large one. The rounds may then be formed into rings by stamping a small cutter through the centre, the holes in the rings may be filled with bright-coloured jam, and the pastry may be covered with sifted sugar. Time to bake the rounds, fifteen to twenty-five minutes, accord- ing to size. : Puff Paste Tartlets.—Take half a pound of puff paste and give it eight turns; roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Dip a plain or fluted cutter, an inch and three- quarters in diameter, into hot water, and stam out as many rounds as will be required.. Gather the trimmings of the paste together, | and roll it to the thickness of the sixth. of an inch. Dip the cutter again in hot ‘water, stamp out again the same number of rounds, and form them into rings, by pressing a smaller cutter, an inch in diameter, quite through them. Moisten the edges of tho ‘rounds, and lay the rings upon them to form the rims of the tartlets. Bake in a mode- rate oven, and whilst they are warm fill them with good jam. Place upon this a little orna- ment of pastry, made of the remnants. If the tartlets are wanted hot, put them into the oven for 9, minute before sending them to table. They are, however, generally served cold. ‘ Time to bake, ten to twelve minutes. Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. Puff Puddings.—Beat four ounces of butter to a cream, and mix with it four table- spoonfuls of flour, the yolks of four oggs, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a pint of cream or “milk, anda little almond flavouxing. A minute or ‘two Before the puddings are to be baked, add the ‘whites of the eggs, beaten to o firm froth. Butter some large patty-pans, and three- parts fill them with the mixture. If liked, a few currants may bé sprinkled over the puddings. ‘Bake in a, well-heated oven, and serve the pud- dings as'soon as they are done enough, with white sugar sifted ‘over them; send wine sauce to table with them. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, if made with milk, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons, Puffed Eggs.—Beat four eggs lightly, and mix with them about a pint of cream or of , milk. Season with salt and pepper. Butter a mould, and pour in the mixture; cover it, and’set it on a plate turned upside down in a saucepan, with boiling water two inches deep. Let the mixture steam until it is set. Turn it upon a hot dish, and pour round it a little good brown gravy. ‘Time to steam, twenty minutes or more. Probable cost, 10d., if made with milk. Sufficient for two or three persons. Puffs.—Recipes for the following puffs will be found under their respective headings :— ‘ALMOND Iris APPLE JAM AUSTRIAN Lavy ABBESS, CLARET _JLEMON Cuirron Or Larxs GERMAN PARMESAN German, ALMOND Potato GincrER Ricz Hasty | SPANISH Puffs of Larks.—Make half a pound of puff paste, according to the recipe already given. Pluck and draw three or four larks, and brown them equally all, over in'a stewpan with a little butter. Take them up, drain them, and put into the body of each bird a small lump of fresh butter, one or two bearded oysters, a little pepper and salt, and a-table-spoonful of thick cream. Truss each lark firmly, and wrap it in slices of fat bacon. ‘Cover it with the puff paste, rolled out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and shape it as neatly as possible. Put the ‘puffs side by side on a buttered tin, and bake in a brisk oven for about ten minutes. Probable cost of larks, 1s. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient, four or five for a dish. Puits d’Amour.—Make a fine rich puff paste, and roll it out thin. With tin shapes, made on purpose, cut it out, each size less t another. Lay the sizes in a pyramidical form; then bake in a moderate oven, that the paste may be done sufficiently, but very pale. Lay different coloured sweetmeats on the edges. Pulled Bread (for the Cheese Course).— Take the crust off a newly-baked loaf while it ig still warm. - Pull it lightly and quickly with thd fingers of both hands into rough pieces, and bake these in a slow oven until they are lightly browned and crisp. ; Pulled Turkey, Fowl, or Chicken. —Skin a cold chicken, fowl, or turkey. Take off the fillets from the breasts, and put them into a stetypan with the rest of the white meat and wings, side-bones, and merrythought, with PUL ( 668 ) PUM a pint of broth, a large blade of pounded mace, a finely-minced shallot, the juice of half a lemon, and a roll of the peel, some salt, and a few grains of cayenne; thicken with flour and butter, and let it simmer for two or three minutes, till the meat is warm. In the mean- time score the legs and rump, powder them with pepper and salt, broil them nicely brown, and lay them on or round the pulled chicken. Three table-spoonfuls of good cream, or the yolks of as many eggs, will be a great improve- ment to this dish. Pulque.—This is a beverage much -de- lighted in by the Mexicans and inhabitants of some parts of Central and South America. It is made from the juice of different species of agave. The juice is collected by cutting out the flowering stem just when itis ‘eginning to grow from the midst of the leaves, and scooping a hole for the juice. The cavity being formed, ‘large quantities of juice are removed daily from it for months. When fresh, pulque is an agreeable drink, but it is more frequently drunk after fermentation, when its taste is more pleasant. The great drawback is a putrid smell, but one gets over that in time. Mixed with water and sugar, and allowed to ferment for a few hours, pulque forms a beverage called Tepach. Pulse.—Under this name are ranged the edible seeds of leguminous plants. The most important of all kinds of pulse are peas and beans; after these may be ranked kidney-beans, lentils, chick-peas, &c. The best kinds of pulse contain a great deal of nutriment. They are not, however, easy of digestion, and are apt to produce flatulence. Pumpkin.—The pumpkin sometimes grows to a great size, as large as two feet in diameter. It is never eaten excepting when cooked. Pumpkin and Rice Soup.—Wash a quarter of a pound of rice, and boil it gently until it is almost soft. Drain it, and put it aside. Pare «a small pumpkin, take out the seeds, and slice the whole or half of it. Cut it into slices, and put these in a saucepan, with two large onions, two cloves, four or five sticks of celery, a sprig of parsley, a tea-spoonful of sugar, a little pepper and salt, and two quarts of water. Simmer all gently together until the vegetables are quite soft, then rub them through a colander, and keep back the fibrous portion. Set the purée, with the liquor that has run through the colander with it, again upon the fire, add the rice, and boil gently until the latter is tender. Serve very hot. The soup will be much improved if nicely-flavoured stock, or the liquor in which meat has been boiled, be used instead of water. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost of pumpkins, uncertain. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Pumpkin Pie (a Cornish recipe).—Take a ripe pumpkin, and chip off the rind or skin; halve it, and take out the seed and puffy part in the centre, which throw away. Cut the pumpkin into small thin slices; fill a pie-dish therewith; add to it half a tea-spoonful of pimento, and a table-spoonful of sugar, with a amall quantity of water. Cover with a nice light paste, and bake in the ordinary way. Pumpkin pie is greatly improved by being _ eaten with clotted cream and sugar. An equal quantity of apples with the pumpkin will make a still more delicious pie. Pumpkin, Preserved.— Take a fresh pumpkin. Pare it, halve it, and pick out. the seeds, then cut it into thin slices about the size of the palm of one’shand. Weigh these slices, and allow a pound of powdered sugar, the juice of two large lemons, the peel of one, and half a tea-spoonful of ground ginger, to each pound of pumpkin. Lay the slices in layers upon a large dish, sprinklé the sugar between the layers, strain the lemon-juice over the whole, and leave it for two or three days. At the end of that time, turn the whole into a preserving-pan with the lemon-rind thinly sliced over, and allow a breakfast-cupful of water for every three pounds of sugar used. Boil the mixture gently until the slices are tender, turn them into a bowl, and let them remain covered for six or eight days. Throw away the bag con- taining the ginger. Strain off the syrup, and boil it again until it is thick; pour it at once over the pumpkin. Put the slices of pumpkin into jars, and cover these with paper dipped in the white of an egg. Store in a cool dry place. Time, twelve days. Probable cost, uncertain. Pumpkin Pudding. — Take a large pumpkin, pare it, and remove the seeds. Cut half of it into thin slices, and boil these gently in water until they are quite soft, then rub them through a fine sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. Measure the pulp, and with each pint put four ounces of butter, a large tea-spoonful of pounded mace, and a small nutmeg, grated. Stir the mixture briskly fora minute or two, then add the third of a pint of hot milk and four well-beaten eggs. A glass- ful of wine may be added or not. Pour the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven for about an hour. Probable cost, uncertain. It will be sufficient for five or six persons. Pumpkin Png (another way).— Boil the pumpkin, and rub it through a sieve, as in the last recipe. With a pint of the pulp put three-quarters of a pint of warm milk, an ounce of butter, a large nutmeg, grated, a pinch of powdered mace, three table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, two table-spoonfuls of picked and dried currants, and three well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixture briskly for two or three minutes. Line a dish with pastry, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven for about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Pumpkin Pudding (another way).—Cut a pump ito square pieces, and stir the pieces over the fire in a saucepan until they become soft. If they are now found to be too moist, squeeze them in a cloth to get rid of some of the water. Then put the pulp in a stewpan with some butter, and fry it. When done, mix a spoonful of arrowroot in milk, sweetened with sugar, and simmer the whole PUM. ( 669 ) PUN until it becomes reduced to a proper con- sistency. Then let it become cold, and thicken with three eggs, beaten up with a small quan- tity of water. Afterwards butter the inside of a stewpan, cover it with bread-crumbs, and put the cooked pumpkin into it. Place the pan over some hot cinders, put the lid on, and throw some embers on it. When the pudding is browned send it to table. Pumpkin Soup.—tTake half or a quarter | of a moderate-sized pumpkin, pare it, remove the seeds, and cut the pumpkin into thin slices. Put these into a stewpan, with as much water or milk as will cover them, and boil gently until they are reduced to pulp. Rub this through a fine sieve, mix with it a pinch of salt anda piece of butter the size of an egg, and stir it over the fire until it boils. Thin it with some boiling milk, which has been sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind, cinnamon, or orange- - flower water. It should be of the consistency of thick cream. Put toasted bread, cut into dice, at the bottom of the soup tureen. Moisten the bread-dice with a small quantity of the liquor, let them soak a little while, then pour the rest of the soup over them, and serve very hot. Or, whisk two fresh eggs thoroughly in the tureen, and pour the soup in over them at the last moment. The liquor ought to have ceased from boiling for a minute or two before it is poured over the eggs. Time, two hours. Pro- bable cost, uncertain. Pumpkin Soup (another way).—Slice a pumpkin, and stew it in butter until tender, then reduce it to a purée. Add to this as much hot milk, flavoured with cinnamon or lemon, as may be required to thin it for a soup. Throw in a little salt; and when properly heated, have ready a couple of eggs whisked to froth, put them into the tureen and pour the soup over. Serve immediately. Punch.—Punch is a beverage made of hot water, mixed with wine or spirits, sweetened and flavoured. It was very generally used in the last century, but is only to be met with now on extraordinary and very convivial occasions. It is always considered very insidious, but it rarely disagrees with those who partake of it in moderation. It is dangerous chiefly because it does not taste so strong as it is. In addition to the various kinds of punch given below, recipes for the following will be found under their respective headings :— Campriper, Mink ‘ ReGEnt’s Grorcz THE FourtH Roman, Icep Gin Roya Granito, IceD SHERBET FOR HarroweatTE Sunvs (several Icep recipes) ImprerRIaL Surus Rum Mitx UsaquEBpach NorFotk Verpex or M1Lx ORANGE WHISKEY OxrorpD ‘WINE Pinz APPLE YorKSHIRE. Punch, To Make.—The grand secret, or rather art, of making genuine British punch consists'in the preparation of a rich and delicate sherbet; this being accomplished, with the addition of the best Jamaica rum or French brandy, and pure hot ‘or cold water, the mix- ture may be too strong or too weak, but cannot possibly prove bad punch. preparing sherbet for punch, the acids of cream of tartar, tamarinds, and various other prepared vegetable acids, as well as that known as citric acid, are ‘occasionally employed; but perhaps, after all, the juices of limes, lemons, and Seville oranges, expressed from the fresh fruits, when attainable, make the sort of sher- bet which seems most congenial with the nature of good British punch. 2 Procure a couple of ripe, sound, and fresh lemons or limes, and a Seville orange; rub off the yellow rind of one of the lemons with lumps of: fine loaf sugar, putting each lump into the bowl: as soon as it is saturated or clogged with the essence or grated rind; then thinly pare the other lemon and Seville orange, and put these rinds also into the bowl, to which add plenty of sugar; pour a very small quantity of boiling water: and immediately squeeze the juice of the fruit, followed by a little more hot water. Count Rumford recommended that a table-spoonful of rice should be boiled in each quart of water; it imparts a softness almost equal to jelly. Incorporate the whole well together with a punch. ladle; and, putting a little of the sherbet thus composed, try its richness and flavour by: the palate. If the fruit be good, a practised punch-maker will find little which requires to be regulated, and that little can soon be adjusted by supply- ing the aqueous, saccharine, or'acid deficien- cies, so as to produce a luscious and rich- bodied sherbet, fit. forthe, reception of the spirit which is to give it animation. If strain- ing should be found necessary, this is the period for using a lawn sieve, through which a little more hot water may afterwards be passed; and a few parings of the orange or Jemon-rind are generally considered as having an agreeable appearance floating on the bowl. The sherbet being thus prepared, to make it into genuine British punch, spirit should be added, in the proportions of a.bottle of the best Cognac brandy; the entire strength or weak- ness may be suited to the general inclination of the company for which it is prepared. The above quantity of fruit, with about three- quarters of a pound of sugar, will make suffi- cient sherbet for three quarts of punch. Pine-apple rum and capillaire syrup, instead of part of the sugar, may be used, if convenient, with considerable advantage to the flavour ; though it will prove excellent punch without either of these auxiliaries, or even Seville orange. : The same sort of sherbet may, of course, be used for brandy-punch or rum-punch singly ; but punch is seldom so made in England: most persons, indeed, mix equal parts of rum and brandy. Arrack-punch, however, is made with that spirit alone, and usually with a simple sherbet of lime or lemon-juice, with sugar, as the flavour of the Seville orange interferes too much with the peculiar flavour of the arrack, which proves so grateful to most tastes, though to many very unpleasant. Punch may be im- mediately impregnated with the arrack flavour PUN ( 670 ) PUN by a little of the flower of Benjamin. When with the richest sherbet, sometimes rendered still richer by fruit-jellies, and even nutmeg, wine is mingled with the rum and brandy, instead of water, the liquid is called Punch Royal. s / ‘the mixture of a small quantity of, ale or porter, highly recommended by some in making punch, seems only advisable when it is rum- punch, made without ,any brandy, and must, even then, be very sparingly introduced. This article, whatever may appear its value, is fur- nished, with regard to its principles, by one of the first practical punch-makers in Europe, who could easily, by dwelling on minute cir- . cumstances, have supplied matter for a small volume: the essence of which is, however, he freely confesses, here sufficiently concentrated for every useful purpose. With regard to the salubrity of punch, when drank in moderation, hot in winter, or, cold, and even iced in summer, it affords a grateful beverage, admirably allaying thirst, promoting the secretions, and conveying animation to the spirits. If, however, amid the hilarity excited by-the tempting fragrance and luscious taste, which the balmy bowl seldom fails to inspire, it. be too freely drank, its powerful com- bination of spirit and acid, instead of proving favourable to the constitution, will infallibly tend to bring on the gout, even sooner than most wines or strong cider, unless happily prevented by using a considerable deal of exer- cise. Punch, like all-the prime blessings :of life, is excellent and salutary when prudently enjoyed. at proper seasons. We must not, charge on them our own want of discretion, by. which alone they are ever converted to evils. .. ‘The apparently whimsical name of, punch,. like the liquid itself, is of West India origin—. the word, in the aboriginal language, signifying. simply jive, being the number of ingredients there used: viz., 1. Acid, or lime, or lemon-: juice; 2. Sweetness or sugar; 3. Spirit or rum, &c.; 4. Water; and 5. Spicy flavour, or nutmeg, &c. It is singular, too, that punch, the word for five, consists of just five letters. From the opposite natures of the ingredients, . punch has also been called the liquor of con- tradictions. / Punch (a Ja Frangaise).—Take a litre of rum (rather over a pint) and 750 grammes of broken sugar (about'a pound and three-quar- ters), and place these ingredients in a saucepan. Burn the sugar until it becomes candied, brown in colour, and reduced by one-third. Throw in rather more than a pint of boiling tea, with the juice of half a dozen citrons and as many oranges. Drink immediately. Punch (a la nee stp Another way.— The following is cale more especially to produce a ladies’ punch. Take rather more than two pounds of sugar, and melt it in a large saucepan over the fire, a good half-tum- blerful of water or tea being poured over to moisten it, with the juice of two lemons and two oranges. When the sugar is well melted, | pour into the saucepan a bottle of ram anda bottle of brandy, ‘and as much tea as is needed . to modify its strength.’ After adding the tea, take care that the punch is sweet enough, | Just warm the punch; do not let it’ boil. Immediately before serving squeeze the juice of half a dozen oranges through a sieve into the mixture, - Punch (a la Régence).—Take the thin rind of two lemons and two Seville oranges. Put-: them into a bowl, with a small piece of vanilla, . four cloves, and an inch of stick cinnamon. Pour over them a hot syrup, made with a pound and a half of refined sugar boiled in a pint of water. Let these ingredients infuse for © several hours. Mix with them the strained juice of twelve lemons, and rum’and brandy accord- ing to taste. Strain the liquid through a fine , napkin. Bottle immediately, and put it in ice, until it is wanted. = Puneh (a la Reine).—Rub the rind of two: large fresh lemons with three or four largelumps : of sugar till the zest is taken off.. Squeeze out and strain the juice of six lemons and two- oranges, and - three-quarters of a pound of sugar, dissolved in as much water as will mois- ten it, and: half a pint of water. Freeze the’ mixture. Stir into the ice a glassful of rum and a glassful of brandy, and freeze again. Whisk the whites of three eggs to a solid froth,: and beat up with them four ounces of pounded - sugar. Stir this into the ice and serve. el Punch (a la Romaine, Iced). — Take the juice of two China oranges, and a glassful each of rum and champagne, and mix them witha pint and a half of lemon-water ice. Freeze in the usual way. Beat up half a pound of « powdered sugar withthe frothed whites of: two eggs, add this to the rest, with half a pint of brandy, a bottle of champagne, and a cup of green tea. Stir the mixture briskly into the ice until it liquefies. If it is: too thick to pour out, add a little water, a little more cham- pagne, or a little syrup. For the punch to be ' perfect the quantity of ice must be proportioned to the liquid. It should be smooth and white, like thick cream, and should be served.in eham,, pagne glasses. This recipe for making punch, a la, Romaine has long been a desideratum with , amateurs, but, since its invention, it has been in a few hands only. ‘ Punch (a la Victoria).—To a pint of clari- - fied sugar, mix the juice of half a dozen lemons and two China oranges, with the rind of two lemons rubbed off on a lump or two of sugar.. Strain when the sugar has dissolved, and’ freeze. Take the mixture out of the ice-pot, add equal quantities of brandy and rum, and beat up the whites of three eggs with a quarter of a pound of sugar to a stiff froth, Mix it gently ‘with the rest, and put again to freeze. Punch, Burnt.—Stir over the fire a pint and a half of rum, a pint and a half of claret, and three-quarters of a pound of sugar. When the sugar is melted, and the mixture boils, pour a pint and a half of boiling water over it and the juice of three lemons. This punch may be drunk either hot or cold: if cold, it: should be allowed to stand covered in the saucepan till it is cold, arid then be poured into decanters. The, zest of the lemons should be rubbed off on the sugar before it is put in. PUN ( 671 ) PUN Punch Drops.—Rub a large lump of sugar upon the rind of one or two oranges to obtain the flavour, then crush it, and add more sugar to make up half a pound. . Put this into a sugar boiler, and mix it to a stiff paste, with a small wine-glassful of rum and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and stir over a gentle fire until it boils. Let it fall in drops, the size of a sixpence, upon a slightly oiled baking-sheet. When. cold, they can be easily removed with the point of a knife, and,should be put on a sleve in a warm place to dry. Punch, English.—Ruvb the yellow rind of a lemon with lump sugar. Put the sugar into the punch-bowl, squeeze the lemon-juice to it, add the spirits—rum and brandy—in such pro- portions as are preferred. Incorporate the spitits thoroughly with the ‘sugar and lemon before ‘pouring in the boiling water, and keep stirring the whole while this is pouring. Some add madeira or sherry. ih ‘ Punch for Hot. Weather.—Put a dozen small sprigs of early mint into a large tumbler, and sprinkle over them a table-spoon- ful of white powdered sugar. Fill up a third of the glass with peach'brandy and French brandy in equal proportions, and add as much pounded ice as the tumbler will contain, Rub the rim of the tumbler with a slice of fresh pine-apple, and drink the contents as the ice melts. If the brandy is not at hand, a glassful of sherry and a glassful of gin may be sub- stituted for it,and-an inch or two of orange- rind may be added as flavouring. = = Punch, Glasgow (from Lockhart’s ‘¢Peter’s Letters” ).—‘‘ Thesugar being melted with a little cold-water, the artist squeezed about a dozen lemons through a wooden strainer, and, then poured in water enough almost to fill the bowl. connoisseurs in his immediate neighbourhood were requested to'give their opinion of it—for in the mixing of the sherbet les, according to the Glasgow creed, at least one-half of the whole battle. This being approved of by an audible smack from the lips of the umpires, the rum was added to the beverage, I suppose, in something about the proportion from one to seven. Last of all, the maker cut a few limes, and running each section rapidly round the rim of his bowl, ‘squeezed in enough of this more delicate acid to flavour the whole composition.” Glasgow punch should be made of the coldest spring water, newly drawn from the spring. The acid ingredients mentioned above are enough for a'large bowl." Punch, Hot.—In order to make good punch, it is necessary that the sherbet-—or mix- ture of sugar, flayouring, acid juice, and water— should. be both rich and delicate, and that the ingredients should be thoroughly’ blended. When the ‘latter point is attained, the spirits and wine. can be added, in proportions to ‘suit, the taste., The following recipe, is a general. favourite.:—Rub. the rind of a large fresh lemon with two or three lumps. of sugar till all: the’)' yellow part has. been taken off; then add more: sugar to make up the weight to four ounces. In this state the liquor’ goes by the name of sherbet, and a few of the Put this into the punchbowl, .and strain over it the juice, of the lemon. Pour then into the punch-bowl a pint of boiling water, and stir the mixture well for five or.six minutes. Add a quarter of a pint of rum, the third of a pint of brandy, and stir again, Half a nutmeg, grated, may be added or not.,, Time to prepare, a few minutes. Sufficient for a quart of punch. Punch, Hot (another way).—Rub two or three lumps of sugar’ upon the rind of three fresh lemons, ot, ifSpreférred, upon two lemons and one Seville orange, until the-yellow part is taken off; then add more sugar to make up the weight to six ounces. Put this into the punch- bowl, strain over it the juice of the fruit, and add a pint and a half of boiling water. Stir the mixture until the sugar is dissolved, then add a pint of rum and a glassful of brandy. A spoonful of noyau will improve the flavour of this punch. Time, a few minutes to prepare. Sufficient for three pints of punch, ‘Punch: Iecing.—Take: some very white and finely-sifted sugar, and mix it to a thick syrup with a: little lemon-juice and rum. Before using it, make it hot, and put whatever is iced with: it into a cool oven.to dry as soon. as the icing is spread upon it. po nel Punch in Haste.—Rub the rind of a. fresh lemon with a large lump of sugar till the yéllow part‘is taken off. Crush it to powder, with a quarter of an ounce of citric acid, and pour over it a pint of clarified syrup. Put a table-spoonful of this flavoured syrup into a pint of water, adda glassful of rum ora glassful- of brandy; or a mixture of both, and:serve. Punch Jelly.—Rub off the yellow part of two large fresh lemons with one or two lumps: of sugar, then add more sugar to make up the weight ‘to ten ounces. Put this into a bowl, pour over it the strained juice of three lemois and a Seville orange, and put the bowl aside fora while. Put an ounce and a half of ‘best’ isinglass into a very clean saucepan, with’ a pint of cold water. Stir over the fire till the mixture boils, then draw it to the side, and’ let it simmer gently for half an hour. At the end of twenty minutes, throw a lump of sugar and a tea-spoonful of vinegar into it, and add about’ a table-spoonful of cold water. Stir lightly,. carefully remove the scum, and strain the liquor through a napkin. Put it into a clean saucepan, and add. toit the contents of the bowl that was set aside, a quarter of-a pint of brandy, and a quarter ofa pint.ofrum. Let all simmer. gently together for four minutes, then ‘strain, the liquor through a jelly-bag into the mould.' If liked, calf’s foot stock:can be used, and.then half the quantity only of isinglass will. be. required. oe 2 “Punch Jelly (a French recipe).—Throw: the peel of two sound lemons and half an’ ounce of tea into a syrup nearly boiling; cover: it, and whilst it is cooling, run the juice of five’ lemons through a bag, Pass the infusion+ through asilk sieve, and and mix with it half! a pint of good arrack or rum, and one ounce of isinglass clarified. Finish as usual. Punch Jelly, made with Gelatine.—. Rub two or three lumps of sugar upon the rind | PUN ( 672 ) PUR of three lemons till the yellow part is taken off, then add more sugar to make up the quantity to ten ounces. Strain over this the juice of six ‘ lemons, and put it into a scrupulously-clean saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pint of brandy, a piece of cinnamon, three or four cloves, a little grated nutmeg, an ounce anda half of gelatine dissolved in a pint of water. When the mixture is almost cold, whisk the whites of two eggs and stir them with their crushed shells briskly into the mixture. Set the pan on the fire and boil it gently for ten minutes. Lift it from the fire, put it down by the side, and let it stand untouched for twenty minutes. Strain through a jelly-bag until the jelly is clear and bright, put it into a mould, and let it stand in a cool place till it is firm. Time, twelve hours to set. Probable cost, exclusive of the spirit, 1s. per pint. Sufficient for three pints of jelly. Punch Milk.—Cut off the thin yellow part of four fresh lemons and a Seville orange, and be careful not to take any of the white pith of the fruit, or it will make the punch bitter. Pour over this rind a pint of Jamaica rum, and let it stand, closely covered, for twelve hours. Strain the liquor, and mix with it a pint of lemon- juice and two pints of cold water, in which a pound of refined sugar has been dissolved, and add the. whites of two eggs, beaten to a froth, three pints more of rum, a grated nutmeg, a pint of madeira, a pint of strong green tea, and a@ quarter of a pint of maraschino. i thoroughly, and pour over alla pint of milk, boiling hot. Let the punch stand a little time, then strain it through a flannel jelly-bag until it is quite bright, and either use it at once, or bottle it to put away. Punch, Poney.—Take a tea-cupful of very strong gunpowder tea. Rub the rind of a fresh lemon upon two or threé lumps of sugar, and put them into it; add the strained juice of three lemons, a tea-spoonful of essence of cin- namon, a quarter of a*grated nutmeg, half a pound of sugar dissolved in a quarter of a pint of water, a bottle of Chablis made hot, a quarter of a pint of brandy, a quarter of a pint of rum, and a wine-glassful of rack. Mix the punch thoroughly, strain, and serve hot. ‘Time, half an hour to prepare. Sufficient for a little more than a quart of punch. Punch Sauce, for Sweet Puddings. —Rub a large fresh lemon with two or three lumps of sugar till all the yellow part is taken off, then add more sugar to make up the weight to two ounces. Pour over this a glassful of sherry or madeira, and a glassful of brandy. Mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with two ounces of fresh butter, and add, gradually, the well-beaten yolks of .four eggs, . the flavoured sugar, &c. Turn the whole into a saucepan, and whisk briskly over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken; serve very hot. The sauce must not reach the point of boiling. If liked, the eggs can be omitted, and the wine, &c., can he mixed with half a pint of melted butter. Time, two or three minutes to boil the sauce. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and brandy, 10d. Sufii- cient for six or seven persons. Punch Souffie.—Beat three table-spoon- fuls of flour to a smooth paste with a little - orange-flower water, and add three ounces of pounded sugar, slightly flavoured with lemon, and three ounces of ratafias, crushed to powder. When these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, stir‘in with them the well-beaten yolks of ten eggs. Butter a souffié-dish, fasten round it a high band of buttered paper to keep the soufflé from falling over the top as it rises in the oven, and strew bread-crumbs over the inside. Beat up with the mixture the whites of eleven eggs, which have been whisked to a firm froth, turn it into the dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Be careful to move the soufflé round in the oven two or three times, that it may be equally baked. Serve the moment it is done enough, and send a rich custard, flavoured with brandy, to table with it. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 10d., exclusive of the custard. Sufficient for six or eight persons. . Punch, Whiskey.— Make the sherbet | according to either of the recipes given for hot punch, and add whiskey only, instead of the usual mixture of spirits. Pupton, Apple (see Apple Pupton). Purée.—The purée of any vegetable or meat is prepared by simmering till the substance is sufficiently pulpy or soft to be passed through a horse-hair or tammy sieve. In the case of meat, it is sometimes necessary to beat in a pestle and mortar after simmering. The sieve is placed, bottom upwards, over a dish or tin, and with a wooden spoon or purée presser the substance is worked through, and what passes through is called a purée. It is sometimes neces- sary to moisten with a little liquor, which faci- litates the passing of the purée. . The purée of any vegetable stirred into a clear: beef stock makes a soup, and gives it its characteristic name. Recipes for the following purées will be found under their respective headings :— ARTICHOKE, JERU- Porators SALEM Sorreu Carrots, Rep Sprinaco CELERY TomATOES CuEsTNUTS TRUFFLES Eces Turnip, Brown GAME VEGETABLE Man- Green Peas row Soup Leveret Woopcock, Pras, GREEN Puritan’s Pudding.—Grate three ounces of stale crumb of bread. Put it into a bowl, with a pinch of salt, the eighth part of a nutmeg, grated, an ounce of the kernel of a fresh cocoa- nut, finely-grated, two table-spoonfuls of pow- dered and sifted sugar, and an inch of thin lemon-rind. Mix these ingredients well to- gether, then pour over them « pint of milk, which has been beaten up with two well-whisked eggs. Let the crumbs soak for two hours or more. Beat the mixture well with a fork, pour it into a dish, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons: PUR ( 678 ) QUA Purl.—Take ten pounds of wormwood, six pounds of gentian, two pounds of dried rind of orange, half a pound of bruised ginger, two ounces of cloves, and eight ounces of carda- momums. Put these ingredients in six ons of water, boil the mixture, then digest for fourteen. or fifteen days, and decant into wine eee Add this to warm beer, according to taste. Purl (another way).—Take half a pint of ale, and warm it gently; then add to it one wine-giassful of bitters, or a little spirit. Purl is a favourite early morning beverage with hard drinkers. Purl (another way).—Warm a pint of ale with a quarter of a pint of milk, and add some sugar and a wine-glassful of gin, brandy, or rum. This beverage is now little used, except amongst the lower classes in and about the metropolis. Purslain.—This plant is a native of South America. The young shoots and succulent leaves used to be frequently employed as a cooling ingredient in spring salads. Putrefaction.—The process of putrefac- tion is thus described by Baron Liebig :—‘‘ The sulphurised and: nitrogenised constituents of plants and animals are among the most complex organic atoms. From the instant that they, after being separated from the organism, come in contact with the air, they pass into a state of decomposition, which, when once com- menced, continues, even if the air be now ex- cluded. The colourless, fresh-cut surface of a potato, of a turnip, or of an apple, when ex- posed to the air,soon becomes brown. In all such substances the presenée of a certain quantity of water, in which the molecules are enabled to move freely on one another, is a con- dition necessary to the production, by tempo- rary contact with air, of a change in form and composition, a resolving of the original body into new products, which continues uninter- ruptedly till no part of the original compound is left. This process has been distinguished by the name of putrefaction.” Pyramid, Italian (see Italian Pyramid). Pyramids, Puff Paste (see Puff Paste Rings or Pyramids)—A pretty Dish for a Juvenile Party. Pyroligneous Acid has the remarkable property of preventing the putrefaction of animal substances. It is well known that meat that hag been smoked keeps better than that which has been dried without smoke; and it is now ascertained that this effect depends on the pyroligneous acid that rises with the smoke of the wood or turf which are employed in smoking it. When carefully purified and pro- perly diluted with water, pyroligneous acid is used extensively as a substitute for common vinegar in pickling, and even for common use. Q ‘Quail, The. — The quail will keep for several days before it is dressed. It may either be drawn before being roasted, or, like the 43—N.E. woodcock, be roasted without beipg drawn. As it is rather deficient in flavour; a slice of fat bacon and a vine-leaf are generally tied over it, before putting it to the fire. Quails, Dr. Doran tells us, are variously said either to have recalled Hercules to life or to have cured him of epilepsy. The Romans, however, rather feared them, as tending to cause epileptic fits. Galen thought so; Aristotle took a different view; the Greeks devoured them as readily as though they had Aris- totle’s special authorisation, but the Romans were only slowly converted to the same way of thinking. “ Quails, in my opinion,” says M. Ude, “have no flavour, and from the cir- cumstance of confinement and bad feeding, are never very fat; it is only their rarity that makes them fashionable. They must be served as roast only.” THE QUAIL. Quails, Compdte of.—Take six or eight quails, according to the size of the dish. Cut the claws off, and empty the birds, without making too large anopening. Truss them with the legs inward. Have a dozen pieces of bacon _ cut in the shape of corks, blanch them in order to draw the salt out, then let them fry in butter till they are of a light brown; next take them out of the stewpan to make room for the quails, which stew till they begin to be of a light brown also, and then take them out. Make a roux, which moisten with a ladleful of gravy of veal; add a bunch of parsley and green onions, some small white onions: (if approved of), mushrooms, &c. As soon as the quails are done, take them out of the stewpan, and let the bacon stew till thoroughly done. Skim the sauce well, and strain it through a tammy over the quails; then dish the bacon, mushrooms, and small onions, and send up quite hot and well seasoned. “This dish,” says M. Ude, “will not do for an English dinner.” Quails, Galantine of.— Bone half a dozen quails. This is a delicate and trouble- some process, and if the cook cannot manage it she had better let it be done by the poulterer. Mince finely the livers of the birds, and mix QUA with them a minced sweetbread, two or three ounces of grated ham, and a little chopped parsley, minted shallot, ‘and pepper “and salt. Bind ‘the forcenieat together with the ‘yolk of an egg: Lay the birds open on the table, skin. ddwnwards. Divide ‘the-forcemeat' equally amongst them, and spread half of it upon the. pitds.. Lay upon each a’slice of cold tongue, a spoonful of chopped trifile, if this: can’ be hdd, dnd’ afterwards’ the rest ‘of the force- meat. Roll each bird to an oval shape; and’ tie it in a piece of old napkin. Lay the birds | side by side, and put with them the bones and. trimmings, @ little pépper and’ salt, an. onion stuck with two’ or three clovés; and either a knuckle of’ veal ‘or a calf’s foot. Cover with nively-flavoured stock, and: let’ the ‘quails sitimer gently for’ three-quarters of an hour.’ Take the saucepan from the fire, and let the birds remain in the liquor until they are nearly cold. Drain them, take them out of the napkins, and brush them over with glaze. Boil the sauce quickly to a jelly, and strain it. If it is not quite cléar, clarify it with white of egg: Boil a pound of rice in a quart of water slightly: salted, until “it-is quite tender, and the liquid: is absorbed. Beat well till it is smooth, then press it into’a ‘plain round mould. | When itis. cold ‘and stiff,’turn it upon the centre of-a large dish. Brush it over with. clarified’ butter, and rest the quails in an upright’ position upon it. Garnish the dish with the gravy jelly, cut into dice, and the galantine will be ready for serving, Any small birds may be served in the same way. Pro- bable cost of quails, when cheap, 1s. each. Suf- cient for a moderate-sized supper dish. Quails, Galantine of (another way).— See Galantine of Quails. Quails, Roast.—Draw the birds or not according to taste. Truss them firmly, and tie over the breasts a vine-leaf covered with a slice, of fat’ bacon. Roast before ‘a clear fire, and baste well. When done enough brush ona h good brown gravy round but not over the’ quails. If the birds are riot drawn before being’ roasted they’ should be ‘séervéd on a slice of: teast, which has been placed in the pan'under' them to, catch the trails. ‘Time’ to. roast the quails, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cogt,, when plentiful, 1s. each. , Sufficient, two oradish, ~ ” ; i, ' -Quails, Trussing of.—Pluck, draw, and singe the quail. Cut off the neck close.to the back, and the wings at the first pinion: .Truss the legs: close to the body,.and pass a skewer through the pinions and thighs... Quaking Pudding.—Scald 4 quart of cream ; ‘when almost ‘cold, put t@ it four well- beaten eggs, a spoonful and’ a half of flour, some nutmeg, and sugar. Tie‘the pudding in a buttered cloth, and boil for an hour. Turn it: out carefully; lest it should crack. Serve with melted butter, a little wine, and sugar. ~ Quass.—A sort of weak beer, a favourite’ beverage among the people in Russia, goes under this name. It is produced by fermenting ( 674 ) the Hagen ‘over with glaze, and serve the birds’ ot. dish ; garnish with ‘watercresses. Pour’ QUE rye-meal in warm water, and ‘is usually bottled in stone bottles... When it' becomes too sour ‘it ' does service as vinegar. ': | « ¢ ee Queen Adelaide’s Pudding. — Beat’ eight ounces of fresh Butter to a cream” Mix with it eight ounces of finely-sifted sugar, half a pound. of dried ‘flour, two ounces of thinly: sliced ‘candied peel, four ounces of picked and dried currants, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of ‘essence of almonds or essenéé”'of lemon. Whisk the yolks and whites of ‘six frésh eggs,’ first separately, and afterwards together. Add: them to the other ‘ingredients, and beat thé: mixture for several minutes. Pour it into a’ well-buttered mould, ¢over with buttered paper, and afterwards tic in a: cloth; and boil or.steam the pudding. . Turn it out. carefully: on. a hot dish, and pour wine sauce round but.nat over it. Time to boil, two hours and:a half... Pro» bable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or.six per- SONS. 0 E : ch sei cues Queen Cakes.—Beat ‘half ‘a pound’ of butter to a cream. Add gradually half a poutid of loaf sugar, one pound of dried flour, half a pound, of picked currants, and a flavouring either of grated lemon-rind; grated nutmeg, or almonds. Beat the yolk. and whites: of. three. | ‘eggs, first separately, and afterwards, together. Mix with them a. tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, which: las been dissolved in a table-. spoonful of :hot milk, and a :small tea-spoonful,. of thick cream..: Stit:,this mixture. into, the ‘cake, and beat thoroughly for several minutes. Butter some small queen-cake tins’ or patty- , pans, ‘half fill them with the batter, and bake in. a.brisk oven for about twenty ‘minutes. S yameth Be aS ad mn | Queen-cake tins are generally made’ heart-. shaped. Probable ‘cost, 2s. 4d. for this quantity. Queen Cakes (another way).-—Put half'a pound of fine flour into a bowl. Mix. with it asmall pinch of salt, half a pound of loaf sugar, pounded and sifted, “six ounces, of currants, picked and dried, and a. flavouring of gither | powdered ‘cinnamon, grated, nutmeg, grated lemon-rind, 6r pounded almonds. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. ‘Cut half a’pound of fresh butter: into small . pieces,: beat .to a cream, and add gradually fixe well-beaten. eggs, two. table-spoonfuls of rose-water or brandy, , and the strained juice of a lemon. Stir the flour, spice, &c., gradually into this mixture, and beat the batter for several minutes. Butter some queen-cake tins, half fill them’ with the batter, and bake ‘in’ a brisk oven. "When ‘done enough, turn them out,‘and place them ‘upside down to cool. If liked, these cakes-may be coated with icing after they are baked: ': To: do'this :put the white of an egg into a bowl, and mix gradually with it a quarter of a pound of finely-sifted loaf’ sugar, and a’ dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, and- work these together with a spoon until the paste is white, shining, and thick. ‘Spread a little of this upon’ the: cake, and put in a cool oven, or in a warm screen, to dry. Time to bake the oakes, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Queen Cakes (another way).—Wash~ 2 pound of fresh butter in rose-water. Beat it to a cream, and mix with it first the whites of QUE (, 675 ): QUE. eight eggs which have been whisked to a solid: | froth, and afterwards the beaten yolks of the: eggs... Add gradually: a, pound-of dried flour, a pound of picked and dried currants; anda pound. | of powdered and sifted sugar, and beat the. mixture well between every addition. Butter the queen-cake tins, or, failing these, some | small tartlet tins, half fill them with the batter, and bake in a brisk oven. Just before the cakes are put into the oven, sift a little finely- powdered sugar over them. Time to bake, Cae “to twenty minutes. Probable cost, s. 8d. dé. Queen Cakes (another way).—Take a pound of powdered sugar, a pound of well-dried Hour, a pound of butter,.eight eggs, and half a pound of currants, washed and. picked; grate a nutmeg, and an equal quantity of mace and cinnamon ; work the butter to a cream, put in the sugar, beat the whites of the eggs twenty minutes, and mix them with the butter and sugar; then beat the yolks for half an hour, and put them to the butter. Beat the whole together, and when it is ready for the oven put in the flour, spices, and currants. Sift a little sugar over the cakes, and bake in tins. x Queen Mab’s Pudding.—Put a pint and a half of new milk or cream into a sauce- pan with any flavouring that may be preferred— either an inch of stick cinnamon, the thin rind of a lemon, vanilla, or eight or ‘nine bitter almonds, blanched or sliced. Simmer the liquor gently until it is pleasantly and rather strongly flavoured, then put with it a pinch of salt, four ounces of loaf sugar, and an ounce of isinglass or gelatine, and stir until the last is dissolved. Strain the mixture through muslin, and mix with it the well-beaten yolks of five eggs. Stir it again over the fire until # begins to thicken, but on no account allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Stir until it is cool, then mix with it an ounce and a half of candied peel and an ounce and a half of dried cherries—or, if preferred, preserved ginger or preserved pine- apple may be used instead of the cherries, and a little of the juice of the fruit may be stirred | in with the pudding. Pour the pudding into an oiled mould, and let it stand in a cool place, or upon ice, until set. Turn the pudding out very carefully, and pour round it a sauce made of clear syrup flavoured with lemon-rind and coloured with cochineal, or, if préferred, mixed with a small portion of strawberry or currant acid. pudding. Sufficient for five or six persons. pete cost, if made with milk and gelatine, 1s. 10d. my ; a Queen Mary’s Sauce for Roast Mutton.—Put ‘a-well-hung joint of mutton down to a clear fire, and baste liberally with the contents of the dripping tin. When it is three-parts roasted, drain off the fat, and put a good-sized dish under the meat. Place in this. an anchovy, boned and pounded, a small onion, chopped small, and a little pepper ; pour over it a-wine-glassful of port and a -wine-glassful of boiling water, and let the droppings of ‘the meat fall into the liquor. Basté the meat with this sauce, and when it is done enough, serve on a Time, about an hour to prepare the | hot dish and pour, the. gravy under it. Snf- ficient for a joint weighing six or seven pounds. _ Queen’s Biscuits,—Make a soft paste of the following materials :—A ‘pound'and a half of flour, the’ same weight of powdered loaf sugar, the yolks of ‘eighteen eggs, the whites of twenty-four, and a sufficiént quantity of * crushed coriander seeds; ‘a little yeast may ‘also. be added, if ‘desired. Make the paste into biscuits, and bake them on’ Paper, at 4 moderate heat, till they begin to brown. : - Queen’s Custard. —Sweeten a. pint, | of thick cream with two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar. Boil it, allow it to cool slightly, then mix with it very gradually the. well-beaten yolks. of eight. eggs. Put the custard into a ‘heated jug, place this in a pan with boiling. water, and stir with a wooden . spoon till it begins to thicken. : Pour it out, mix with it a wine-glassful.of maraschino or ‘noyau, and continue stirring it until it is cold. An ounce, of almonds, blanched and thinly sliced, may be added or not,. The custard is to -be stirred over the fire. till it begins to thicken. Sufficient for a pint.and a half of custard. Probable cost, 3s.* - Queen’s Drops.—Beat ‘half a pound of fresh butter to cream. ‘Add eight ounces of ° finely-powdered sugar, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, and, gradually, four ‘well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixturé.for five or’ six minutes, then ’ add lightly, eight ounces of dried flour and two eunces of picked and dried currants.’ Drop the batter from the end of a spoon upon a baking- sheet spread with butter, in ‘small balls the size of a pigeon’s egg, and bake ‘ina hot oven. When nearly cold, take the drops off the paper.’ Time to bake, ten to fifteen"*minutes.. Probable. cost, 1s. 8d.” oe i ~Queen’s Pudding. — Butter a plain mould or basin rather thickly with butter; flour it well, and stick raisins, slices of candied peel, or dried fruit over the inside in rows. Fill basin with layers of bread and butter, and put between each layer sugar flavoured with lemon- rind, blanched and sliced almonds, and candied peel. Pour over the whole a pint of milk which. has been mixed with four well-beaten eggs. Cover the basin closely, and boil or steam the pudding. Time to boit the pudding, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s.:2d. Sufficient, if made in a quart mould, for five or six persons. '' Queen’s Sauce for Boiled Plum Puddings.—Take half'a pint of good melted putter, sweeten it, and flavour with powdered cinnamon or grated lemon-rind. Stir into it a glassful of sherry or madeira and a glassful of rumshrub. Put the sauce into a tureen, grate - 4 little nutmeg over the top, and it is ready for serving. Time, a few minutes to: prepare. Sufficient for six or eight persons. . ‘ Queen’s Soup, or Soupe a la Reine. —Skin and clean two fine fowls or three young chickens, carefully removing. the dark spongy substance which. is. inside. Put them into a: saucepan, with a bunch of parsley, and pour over them as much good white stock, nicely flavoured, as will cover them. Let them QUE ( 676 ) QUE simmer gently for an hour. Take them up, and pick off all the white flesh from the birds. Blanch and pound a dozen sweet almonds and two bitter ones. Beat them toa paste in a mortar, with a little water to keep them from oiling. Soak the crumb of a penny roll in the broth, and when it is quite moist, wring it in a cloth, to squeeze the moisture from it. Chop the flesh of the chickens, and pound it to a paste, with the soaked roll, the hard-boiled yolks of two eggs, and the pounded almonds. Stir this mixture into the soup, and press the whole through a sieve. Heat it ina clean saucepan, and mix with it a pint and a half of thick cream which has been boiled separately. Stir it over the fire till it boils, and if not sufficiently thick, add a little arrowroot. Many cooks omit the yolks of eggs altogether, and use arrowroot instead. If no white stock is at hand, it may be made by putting into a saucepan three or four pounds of the knuckle of veal which has been soaked and broken up, with four ounces of undressed lean ‘ham, three onions, a carrot,a turnip, four or five outer sticks of celery, two sprigs of lemon thyme, a bunch of parsley, a large blade of mace, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and three quarts of cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully till no more scum rises, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let it simmer gently and without ceasing until it is reduced to rather less than two quarts. Pour it out, and when it is stiff, clear the fat from the top, lift it out free from sediment, and it is ready for use. For many years this soup was con- stantly included in the royal bill of fare. Time to boil the chickens, one hour. Probable cost, varying with the price of the chickens. Queen’s Tea Cakes.—Take the weight of two eggs in fresh butter and beat it to a cream. Mix with it half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, which, before being crushed, has been rubbed upon the rind of a large lemon until the yellow part has been taken off, half a pound of dried flour, and a pinch of salt. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and make them into a paste by mixing with them the two eggs well beaten, and a little rose-water, or, failing this, cold water. Roll the paste out to the thickness of half aninch. Cut it out inrounds the size of a saucer, and bake in a moderate oven for from a quarter to half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. for this quantity. Quenelles.—Quenelles are small iballs made of delicate French forcemeat, composed of panada, calf’s udder, and the flesh of veal, poultry, or fish, thoroughly pounded, then seasoned, aiid moistened with egg. They take their name from the meat of which they are composed. Great patience and care are required in making them, and these musi be directed principally to pounding the ingredients thoroughly, first separately, and afterwards together. Quenelles are served either in soups, or, with rich sauce, as a ragott, or they may be dipped in egg and bread-crumbs, fried in hot fat, and served as croquettes. When the force- meat is made, it is always best to test a little piece before poaching or frying the whole of the preparation. To do this, a small ball should be moulded, and thrown into fast-boiling water. If, when it is taken out, the quenelle is light, firm, and well seasoned, no alteration will be necessary. If it is too firm, a little water may be added, and if not firm enough, the yolk of an egg will, in all probability, make it of the. proper consistency. Quenelles as a Garnish for Poultry. —tThe following is a pretty and appetising dish for dinner or supper :—Stuff a large fowl with veal forcemeat, and roast it. Keep out a small quantity of the forcemeat, and make it up into quenelles, about the size of small walnuts. Poach these in gravy, and warm with them as many slices of tongue as there are quenelles. Put a border of mashed potatoes round a large dish, and place on this, alternately, the tongue. and the quenelles. Put the roast fowl in the middle of the dish, and pour over it and the quenelles a quart of good white stock. Serve very hot. The appearance of the slices of tongue will be further improved if they are brushed over with a little glaze. Quenelles for Turtle Soup.—Take about a quarter of a pound of lean white veal, cut it into long slices, and scrape it with a knife till nothing but the fibre remains. Pound this to a smooth paste, and rub it through a wire sieve upon a plate. Make it into a ball, and take its bulk, not its weight, in panada (see Panada) and calf’s udder. Many cooks sub- stitute fresh butter for the udder: when it is used a smaller proportion will be required. Pound these. ingredients, and press them through a sieve, first separately and afterwards together; season the forcemeat with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and add, gradually, the yolks of two and the white of one egg. After pounding the ingredients together, pass the whole again through a sieve, and before poach- ing the quenelles, test a little piece of the forcemeat_ by throwing it into boiling water. If, when it is taken out, it is not sufficiently firm, add the yolk of another egg. Mould it in balls of any size that may be preferred. Poach these in boiling water until they are sufficiently hard, drain them, when done enough, put them into the tureen, and pour the soup gently over them. The quenelles may be made as small as marbles or as large as eggs; the former size is generally preferred for soup. Time to poach, from six to fifteen minutes, according to size. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. for this quantity. Sufficient for a large tureen of soup. Quenelles for White and Clear Soups.—Melt an ounce of butter in a stew- pan overa gentle fire. Beat it up with a little flour and some thick cream, as much as will make a smooth paste. Add two ounces of boiled macaroni, two ounces of grated parmesan, and a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Beat the mixture over the fire until it is smooth and firm, and leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon. Mould it into quenelles with a tea-spoon which has been dipped in hot water, and poach these in boiling gravy till they are done through. Lift them out with a skimmer, and put them into the tureen with the soup. QUE ( 877 ) QUE Time, three minutes to poach the quenelles. Sufficient for a small tureen of soup. Quenelles, Forcemeat for.—Quenelle forcemeat is made by mixing meat, poultry, game, or fish with an equal quantity in bulk of panada and calf’s udder: it must be remem- bered that each ingredient must be pounded and passed through a sieve by itself, and after- wards all must be pounded together, and to- gether passed through the sieve. The prepara- tion of the udder is a troublesome and tedious process, besides which the udder cannot always be procured. Therefore fresh butter is fre- quently substituted for it; and when this is the case the following proportions may be followed : they will be found to make good forcemeat, whether meat, poultry, game, or fish is used :— Take half a pound of meat properly prepared, a quarter of a pound of panada (see Panada), and three ounces of fresh butter. Pound these together, with a little salt, cayenne, and mace, if the panada is not already seasoned. A little anchovy may be added for fish quenelles. Mix in gradually a table-spoonful of good white sauce, and the yolks.of two and the white of one egg. Test the forcemeat as directed in the preceding recipes (see Quenelles, &c.), and, if required, add a little more seasoning or the yolk of another egg: keep the preparation in a cool place or upon ice until it is wanted. It: will keep for a day or two. Quenelles, Forcemeat for (another way).—See Forcemeat for Quenelles. Quenelles, German.—Various recipes are given in this book for the German klisse, which are a kind of quenelles. They are made both sweet and savoury. When sweet, they are served with sugar and sauce ; whensavoury, they are either served in soups or as a garnish - for dishes, or piled high on a dish with vege- tables. The following are made with flour, and may either be used as a garnish, served with vegetables, or, after being poached, may be dipped into clarified butter, and afterwards into egg and bread-crumbs, and fried till they are lightly browned, then drained, and served hot on a neatly-folded napkin:—Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan, with three small cupfuls of milk. When the liquor rises in the pan, stir six ounces of flour quickly into it, add a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and stir the paste briskly till it leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon. Turn it out, and add gradually three whole eggs and a little grated parmesan. Mould the quenelles in the usual way, and let them simmer gently until they are done through. The water or gravy in which these quenelles are poached should not be allowed to boil at all, or the balls will break. Time to simmer, according to size. Probable cost, 10d. for this quantity. Quenelles, Lobster (for Fish Soups).— Take the meat, pith, coral, and spawn of a small hen lobster, and pound it to a paste. Mix with it two table-spoonfuls of finely-grated bread-crumbs and three ounces of butter. Season the forcemeat with a tea-spoonful of anchovy, a little salt, nutmeg, and cayenne, and moisten with the yolks of two eggs and the white of one. Test a little piece, to be sure | that it is properly. seasoned and firm, and if necessary, add the yolk of another egg. Mould the forcemeat into small quenelles, and brown these in hot fat, or poach them in boiling water. They may be served with fish, soup, or, with good gravy poured over them, as a breakfast or supper dish. Time to fry, according to size. Probable cost of lobster, 1s. to 2s. Quenelles, Moulding of.— Take a spoon of the size it is' wished the quenelles should be, fill it with the forcemeat, and smooth the surface with a knife which has been dipped. in hot water. Dip another spoon of the same size into hot water, and with it slip the meat out of the first spoon, put it into a buttered dish, and proceed with another quenelle. ‘When as many are made as are required, slip the balls from the dish into a saucepan of water lightly salted, and let them boil until firm. Quenelles of Cod, Salmon, &c.— Take the skin from a thick slice of salmon or cod, scrape the flesh with a spoon, and rub it through a wire sieve upon a dish. Pound six ounces of the fish thus prepared, with three ounces of butter, and four ounces of panada; season with salt and cayenne, and then add, gradually, one whole egg, and the yolks of two others. Pound the mixture again, and put it on ice or in a cool place till it iswanted. Any kind of fish forcemeat may be made in the same way. Quenelles of Game.—Take the remains of cold game or poultry, carefully remove the skin, bone, and sinew, then mince and pound the meat, and prepare the quenelles according to the recipe already given for quenelle forcemeat. If this method is con- sidered too troublesome, adopt the following :— Mince a pound of the meat finely, and pound it in a mortar, with three ounces of butter, a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and six or eight button mushrooms chopped small. Soak the crumb of a French roll in gravy, and squeeze the moisture from it. Put it into a stewpan with as much gravy as it will absorb, and stir it over a clear fire till it forms a smooth mass and leaves the side of the saucepan with thespoon. Mix withitthe unbeaten yolk of an egg, and set it aside to cool, then pound it with the other ingredients till all are thoroughly blended. ‘Leave the preparation in a cool place or on ice for an hour or two, mould it into balls, dip these in egg and bread-crumb, and fry in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain on blotting-paper, and serve on a hot dish, with good brown sauce or mushroom sauce poured over them. Time to fry, about ten minutes. Quenelles of Game (another way).— Pick the meat from the remains of cold game, and carefully remove the skin, bone, and sinew. Cut it small, and put half a pound of it into a mortar, with a tea-spoonful of flour, an ounce of butter, half an ounce of fat bacon, and alittle salt, pepper, and grated nutmog. Pound the mixture to a smooth paste, and bind it together with the unbeaten yolk-of an egg. Mould into balls in the usual way, and boil QUE ( 678 ) QUI these. gently in.a little gravy till they are done through. Drain, and serve piled high on a hot dish, with mushroom sauce poured round them. Time to. boil, about « quarter of an hour. : Quenelles of Grouse.—Cut the meat from the remains of dressed grouse. Remove the skin and sinew, and pound the flesh in a mortar until it can be rubbed through a coarse sieve. To every pound of meat,add half a pound of bread-crumb, soaked in milk and drained, one ounce of fat bacon, two ounces of butter, half a tea-spoonful of salt, the same of pepper, the eighth of a grated nutmeg, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. ° When these ingredients are well mixed, pound them again all together; then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a firm froth. Divide the mix- ture into small quantities. Form these as_ nearly as possible of the size and shape of an egg; poach them in boiling stock, drain well, | ond serve in a dish, with some nicely-flavoured | gravy, made with the bones and trimmings of ' the grouse, and’ thickened with arrowroot. Quenelles, when well made, are considered a delicacy. They should be light and spongy; and it is a good plan to try one ball first before ; cooking the whole. If not'sufficiently firm, add | another egg; if too much so, add a few drops of water. Quenelles are sometimes put into buttered j cups, boiled, and turned out when done enough. ‘Stewed mushrooms may’be sent to table with them. Time, a quarter of an hour to poach. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Quenelles of Rabbit.—Cut the meat] _ from a’ boiled rabbit, and ‘carefully remove every particle of skin and sinew. Pound it till’ smooth, and ‘press it through a sieve. Put a. calf's udder into a stewpan with as much cold water as will cover it. Let it boil gently, and ‘when it is done enough, take’ it out and let it’ cool. ‘Trim away the upper parts, cut it up small, pound it in a mortar, and then press it through ||, a sieve. Chop up six small mushrooms, and: put them into a stewpan, with a piece of butter’ ‘the size of an egg, the peel of a quarter of a}, thinly-sliced lemon, a chopped shallot, a pinch. of powdered thyme, a tea-spoonful of chopped | ‘parsley, anda little pepper and salt. Steam |. these ingredients over a gentle fire for ten minutes. Soak the crumb of two French rolls in milk. When quite soft, put, them into a ‘napkin, and squeeze the moisture,from them. Put them into the stewpan with the seasoning, add a table-spoonful of white sauce, and beat the mixture over a gentle fire until it is quite dry and leaves the saucepan with the spoon. Take it from the fire, and mix with it the yolk of an egg. Put the panada, the calf’s udder: that has passed through the sieve, and the ‘pounded meat into a cool place, and leave them for an hour. To make the quenellés, take an ‘equal quantity (not weight) of éach of the three, | pound together with a wholeegg, and press . ‘the mixture through a sieve. Poach a little | piece in boiling water, and if it is properly | seasoned, firm, and light, mould’ the: quenelles. Poach them. in boiling water,'serve on a hot | dish, pouring over them good white sauce flavoured with mushrooms. Poach the quenelles till they are firm, which will be in from three to twelve minutes, according to size. Probable cost of rabbit, 7d. to 10d. per pound. Quenelles, Ragofit of.—Take half a pound of any kind of dressed meat, game, or poultry. Cut it small, and pound it in a mortar. Mix with it its weight in bread-crumbs, and add a salt-spoonful of chopped parsley, a salt-spoonful of thin lemon-rind, cut very small, half an anchovy, boned and pounded, a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and half a clove of garlic, if liked. Pound these in- gredients thoroughly. Mix them up with an ounce of clarified butter, and when cool; bind the mixture together with the yolk of an egg. Make it into balls the size of a walnut; fry these in hot fat, drain them, put’ them on , a hot dish, ‘and pour over them a’rich brown gravy. If liked,the quenelles may be poached in boiling water instead of being fried in fat, and white sauce, in which a few’ mushrooms have ‘been boiléd, can be poured on. The juice of a lemon should be squeezed over before the-saucé is poured upon them. Time to poach or fry the quenelles, five to ten minutes, or until they are firm. Probable cost, exclusive ‘of the gravy, 1s. Sufficient for a small dish. » fe eh aed : PES at we ag ef +. Quince.~-The common quince is a: hand and austere fruit; .when: stewed with sugar, however, it becomes uncommonly pleasant, and in this way is often eaten alone, and often to impart a flavour to apple pies. It is also much. used to make a preserve known as Quince THE QUINCE, - ‘ t 4 : >i Marmalade. . A delicious‘beverage, something like cider, is also made. from it..' The seeds readily impart their mucilage to water, and will convert forty or fifty times their weight in water ‘into a substance thick as syrup.’ Th quince ‘was grown by the ancient Greeks und Romans; in our own day’ it is cultivated in the South of Europe, in England; and in temperate climates generally. ‘ Quinces are peculiar - for thestrong odour which they exhale: thid odour is ‘a sign that they are fit for use. ‘On account of ‘it, the fruit should not be ‘kept closely shut QUI (679 ) QUI up in a place where it is likely to be felt un- pledsantly. Quince -and Apple Marmalade.— Take a pint of quince juice, prepared as directed in a succeeding recipe (see Quince Juice). Put it into a preserving-pan, with one pound of nicely-flavouréd. apples, pared, coned, and quar- tered, and simmer gently 'until the apples are quite soft.. Lift the pan from the fire, and stir in three-quarters of a pound of ‘finely-sifted sagar: when this is dissolved, put the pan again |. upon the fire, and boil the marmalade quickly for twenty minutes, taking care to stir it well, or it will burn. Turn it while hot into glasses or jars, and cover in the usual way.’ Store in a ont dry place: Time to boil the apples, one our. io °* ; : Quince Blancmange.—Pare two orthree pounds of quinces' without coring them, and throw them into cold water as soon as they are done. Drain them, and put them into a sauce- pan, with. as much-cold. water-as will cover them, let them simmer gently until tender, and turn them into a bowl. The next day strain the juice through a jelly-bag, and put it, when clear, into a saucepan, and with each pint put one and a half ounces of isinglass or gelatine, and half a pound of loaf sugar, or a little more, if that is not enough to mit. the taste. Simmer all gently together until the. isinglass is dis- solved, and carefully remove the scum as it ‘rises. Pour the blancmange out, and stir into it, very gradually, about a pint of thick sweet _eream: continue to. stir until’ it is almost _cold. Pour it into a mould that has been soaked in cold water, and put it in a cool place, or upon ice, until set. _Time, half an hour to boil the quince ‘juice with the isinglass. Probable cost; 3s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. ‘Quince Cakes. — Wash the quinces without peeling, boil them in just enough water to.banely cover them till they are-quite soft, and then. rub them through a, coarse sieve. Mix a.pound and.a half of pounded sugar with each quart of juice, and make it'as hot as pos- sible without) boiling it. Spread it ouf upon shallow: dishes, and dry in a cool oven or before the fire.,; Cut,the fruit into small shapes.. Quince Cakes (another way).—Peel half a Peon quinces, remove the cores, and boil the fruit in a pint of the, syrup of quinces, and the _same quantity of syrup of raspberries, until it becomes reduced.to pulp; then strain through, a coarse sieve. To this pulp add three spoonfuls of loaf sugar, and boil it down till it is seg ha ‘‘gandy, Make the pulp into: cakes, and -, these on.tin plates in a cool oven. a Quince Cheese.—Boil the quinces, and _ rub: themi:to.4 pulp, as in the ~last: :recipe., .. Weigh this pulp. and also an equal weight of sugar. Boil the fruit till it is dry; ‘{ pound the sugar, stir it, and - keep. oe .-o¥er.a .gentle fire until the jam ‘is stiff, tan ‘smooth, and so dry: that ‘it leaves the-sides: of the. saucepan: with a'spoon. “Spread. it out on shallow: dishés, or make little: paper’ cases pour the fruit in to the depth of half an inch, |_close, ‘and, if necessary, dry in a cool: oven until the fruit is quite stiff. If the -cheese hasbeen spread on’ dishes, cut it into fancy shapes, and store these in a tin box between sheets of writing ei If paper cases are uscd they: can' be en off easily if they are dipped fora moment in cold water. «- . Quince Cream.—Take some ripe quinces, roast them, remove the cores, and cut them into thin slices. Boil the quinces in a pint of cream, with ginger, then strain and flavour with loaf sugar. ; at Pek Quince Custard.—Pare the quinces, and \.simmer them gently till they are tender-in as much water-as will barely cover them. Pour | off the juice, and strain it through a jelly-bag. ‘Boil a pint;-of it with five ounces of loaf sugar, and mix it very gradually whilst hot with the yolks of ten well-beaten eggs. Pour fhe custard, into.a heated jug, put this into a sauce- pan of hot water, and stir over the .fire, until the custard begins to thicken, Pour it into glasses, and it is réady for serving. “ ‘Sufficient for a pint and a half of custard. rae Quince Jelly.—Choose quinces that are ripe and. yellow, but quite sound. Wash, but do not peel them; cut them into slices, and put them into a preserving pan.. Shake them well. down, barely, cover them -with water, and let them boil gently until they are. soft, but they must not be allowed to remain so long as to deepen their colour. Turn them into a jelly-bag, and let the juice drain from them without pressure: filter it two or three times, if necessary, till it is cleat and bright. Measure the juice, and boil it quickly for twenty minutes. Take it from the fire, and stir into it, until dissolved, twelve ounces of powdered lump sugar for each pint of juice. Boil it, again, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Let it boil until it will jelly when a little is put upon 4 plate.’ Pour it.at:once into glasses or small’ moulds. The jelly ought.to “poil ‘quickly,’ or the’ colour will not be godd. |The pulp left’ in the! jelly-bag may be boiled ‘with moist sugar for common use; half .ia pound of sugar will be sufficient for each pourid of pulp.’ Time, twenty minutes to boil the juice by itself; a few minutes to’ boil it wit the sugar, or till it jellies. “ Quince Jelly (another way).—Take one quart, of quince juice, and add to it one pound of loaf sugar ;. boil until it,will jelly.. Boil it | again with a pint of white’ wine in which an - ounce of gum. arabic has been dissolved, and pour it into pots or glasses. When cold it will get to a solid jelly. Pee: ince Jelly (another way).—Cut thirty- six aes yobs ie pits, with about: two quatts of water; let them boil slowly till the fruit is quite in a mash; keep them-covered and.let about a third -beil away. -Run | the liquor Soe glen and put, “ae, | pint a pound of fine white sugars, put.ito : Reering pan, and. boil till, Edad. i | should be boiled till its consistency. is, such, ithat when .cold.jt.may turn, gt of the mould . to be useds..i.5 i") ee ds ce z QUI ( 680 ) QUI ince Juice.—Pare, core, and quarter jae ripe quinces. Put them into an earthen jar, with a pint of cold water for each pound of fruit. Cover the jar closely, place it in « saucepan of water, and let the fruit steam gently until it is broken. Then lift the jar out of the water, remove the cover, and leave the fruit untouched until the next day. Turn it into a jelly-bag, and strain the juice until it is clear and bright, when it will be ready for use. The pulp may be boiled with moist sugar for common use. If the quinces are allowed to boil too long their colour will be spoilt. Quince Juice (another way).—Take some ripe quinces, peel and grate them; then squeeze the juice through a cloth. Have ready some sugar boiled to a syrup, put in the juice, and let it boil till it jellies, which may be known by putting a spoonful ona plate to cool. The pro- portion of sugar to be used is half a pound to every pint of juice. Quince Kernels.—The kernels of quinces should be carefully preserved and dried, and when required will make a soothing poultice for burns and scalds. To prepare it, soak a few in water. They will shortly form a kind of jelly, and this should be applied to the injured part. Quince Liqueur.—Wash and dry some ripe quinces, and core, but do not peel them. Grate them on a coarse grater. Spread the fruit on a large dish, sprinkle powdered and sifted sugar lightly over it, and let it lie for twenty-four hours. Turn the whole into a hair sieve which rests upon two sticks placed across a basin; strain the juice until it is quite clear. Measure this, and with each pint of juice put half a pound of refined sugar, and a pint of brandy er whiskey. Let the liqueur stand for a fortnight, shaking it each day. Bottle for use. Quince Marmalade. — When quinces emit their peculiar strong odour it is a sign that they are fit for use. Peel the quinces, core them, slice them into a preserving-pan, and pour over them as much water as will barely cover them. Let them simmer very gently until they are soft, stirring them occa- sionally to keep them from burning to the pan ; then beat them to a pulp with a wooden spoon. Weigh the fruit, and for each pound allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Put the sugar into a preserving-pan, with as much water as will moisten it, and boil it to a clear syrup. Put in the fruit, and boil it slowly till it is smooth and thick. Stir frequently whilst it is being boiled, The marmalade will be done enough when it will jelly when dropped upon aplate. Put it, whilst hot, into glasses or jars, and when it is cool, cover in the usual way, with paper dipped in the white of egg. Time, five hours or more. Quince Marmalade (another way).— Pare some quinces that are quite ripe, cut them into quarters, core them, and put them intoa saucepan ; cover them with the parings; fill the saucepan nearly full of spring water, cover it close, and let the quinces stew over a slow fire till soft and of a pink colour; then pick out all the quinces from the parings; beat them to a pulp in a marble mortar or wooden bowl; put the same weight of fine loaf sugar as there is pulp into as much of the water they were stewed in as will dissolve the sugar. Boil and skim well, then put in the pulp of the quinces; boil gently for three-quarters of an hour, stirring all the time, or the marmalade will stick to the pan and burn. Put it in pots, and tie down close. Quince Marmalade (another way).— Take quinces that are quite ripe, pare, cut them into quarters, taking out the core, and put them into a stewpan, with spring water enough to cover them. Keep them closely covered, and let them stew gently till they are quite soft and red, then mash and rub them through a hair sieve. Put them in a pan over a gentle fire, with as much clarified sugar as the weight of the quinces. Boil for an hour, stirring all the time, to keep the marmalade from sticking. Put it into pots, and tie down when cold. Quince Marmalade, Superior.—Take some ripe quinces, wash them, and put them whole into a preserving-pan, with as much boiling water as will cover them. Let them simmer gently until they are so soft that they can be easily pierced with a pin. Lift them out, peel and core them, put the cores and skins back into the water, and boil until it is considerably reduced, then strain it. Cut the fruit into thin slices. Weigh these with an equal weight of refined sugar. Put them with the sugar into a preserving pan, pour over them the strained liquor, boil the whole slowly over a gentle fire, and stir with a wooden spoon till it is thick and smooth. In order to ascertain whether or not it is done enough put a little every now and then upon’a plate, and when it jellies it is done. Put it, whilst hot, into glasses or jars, and cover in the usual way. Time, five hours or more. Quince Paste, for Dessert.— Take some ripe quinces, pare, core, and quarter them, and boil them until they are soft in as much water as will barely cover them. Lift them out, drain them, and rub them through a sieve. Stir the pulp over a clear fire until it forms a dry paste. Weigh it, mix with it its weight in powdered and sifted sugar, and stir it unceasingly over a gentle fire until it is firm, and leaves the sides of the saucepan with the spoon. Press it into shallow pans, and when it is cold stamp it out into, shapes, and,*if neces- sary, dry these in a cool oven until they are entirely free from moisture. Store in tin boxes between sheets of writing paper. The paste may, if liked, be more strongly flavoured by boiling the fruit in quince juice instead of water. Time, four to five hours. Quince Pie.—Line the edges of a pie-dish with a short paste. Fillthe dish with quinces, pared, cored, and quartered, sprinkle a little sugar on the top, and add a pinch of grated lemon-peel. Moisten the edges, cover the dish with ‘pastry, and bake in a moderate oven. Sift a little powdered sugar over the pie before rari it to table. Time to bake, according 0 size.” QUI ( 681 ) QUI Quince Pudding.—Take six or eight large ripe quinces. Pare, core, and quarter them, and put them into a saucepan, with as: much boiling water as will cover them, and let them simmer gently until soft. Press them through a sieve, sweeten the pulp, and flavour ‘with lemon, cinnamon, or ginger. When it is cool, stir into it a pint of thick cream and the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. Line a pie-dish with good puff paste, pour in the prepared quince, and bake in a moderate oven. Sift white sugar thickly over the pudding before sending it to table. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Quince Snow (for Dessert).—Take some fine fresh quinces, and boil them till tender. Peel, cut them into slices, and mash them. Weigh out an equal quantity of sugar. To every’ pound of quinces, take the whites of three eggs beat up, and add them one after the other, turning always the sameway. After each addition, add also a spoonful of sugar. Continue beating till the whole is white and frothy: the longer it is beaten the better the snow will be. Spread it upon wafer-paper in any shapes you please, and let the snow dry in the sun. - Quince Tart.—Put one pound of sugar into a brass pan, pour over it a pint of water, and boil the sugar to a syrup. Slice a pound of quinces into it, and let all boil till it becomes a marmalade, stirring all the time. Next take six ounces of chopped almonds, two ounces of citron, the peel of two lemons cut very thin, or grated together with the juice of the lemons. Let all boil up; cover a baking-plate with wafer-paper, pour it over, and make it smooth. When the tart is baked, beat up the juice of two lemons with pounded sugar till it is white like ice; cover the tart with it, and let it dry in a cool oven. Quince Wine.—This is made by mixing one quart of the juice of quinces with one pound | of sugar, and then suffering the liquid to ferment. By adding to the same quantity one pint of the best French brandy and four ounces of sugar, a celebrated liqueur is prepared on the Continent, which used to be greatly prized as a cordial and stomachic when taken in small quantities—say two or three spoonfuls at a time. Quince Wine (another way). — Take twelve quinces, cut them in slices, and boil for a quarter of an hour in a gallon of water. Then add two pounds of lump sugar; ferment, and add one gallon of lemon-wine, and one part of spirit. ' Quinces, Brandied.—Weigh some ripe quinces, and allow three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar to each pound of fruit. Wash the quinces, put them, without paring them, into a preserving-pan, with as much water as will barely cover them, and let them simmer gently until they are so soft that a pin can be easily stuck into them; drain them, and put them aside. Boil the sugar with as much water as will moisten it, and when bubbles form in.it put in the quinces; let them boil up once, and put them aside until the next day. Pour the syrup from them, and put them into wide- mouthed bottles. Boil the syrup until it is thick and clear, let it get cold, and mix with it an equal quantity of brandy. Pour this liquor over the fruit, tie bladders over the mouths of the bottles, and store in a cool dry place. Quinces, Preserved.— Take some quinces, cut them into small pieces, and boil them in a quart of water, to which one spoon- ful of salt and the same quantity of honey has been added, until the water tastes strongly of quinces; then add a quart of white wine vinegar. Now lay the quinces it is wished to preserve at the bottom of an earthenware jar, and pour the above liquor over them. Put into jars, and cover closely. Quinces, Preserved (another way).— Soak the quinces before they are quite ripe in salt and water for twenty-four hours. Then take them out, dip them in a hot pickle of white wine vinegar, salt, mace, cloves, and bay-leaves boiled together, and then preserve them ina stone jar, covered with vinegar. Quinces, Preserved Whole. — Pare some ripe quinces, and scoop out the cores without opening the fruit. Put them into boiling water, and let them simmer gently until they are tender without being broken. Drain them, put them aside to cool, and boil the liquor with a pound of sugar for every pound of fruit ; pour it over the quinces, and let them remain until the next day. Add to the syrup as much apple jelly as will cover the fruit. Dissolve it with the syrup, and put the quinces into it. Let them boil quickly until they look clear, then put them into glasses. Put a small portion of the liquor upon a plate, and if it will Jelly when cold, it is ready for pouring over the fruit ; if not, it must be boiled until it will do so. If no apple jelly is at hand, it may be made as follows:—Take some fine golden pippins or small crab apples, rub them with a soft cloth, and put them, without paring them, into a preserving-pan, with as much water as will barely cover them. Let them simmer gently until the fruit is quite soft. Strain the juice through a jelly-bag, two or three times if necessary, until it is quite clear, and boil it, with a pound of sugar for every pint of liquor, until it will jelly when a little is put upon a plate, it is then ready for use. If liked, quince juice may be used instead of apple jelly to cover the fruit. To make this, cut up some small quinces without coring or paring them, and boil them in as much water as will cover them until the liquor is strongly flavoured with them. Strain the juice, and boil it, with a pound of sugar to each pint, until it will jelly. If when the quirices are being boiled in the’ jelly they seem likely to break, they must be lifted one by one carefully out of the syrup, put into a jar, and the syrup poured over them, then boiled again the next day. Time, two or three days. Quinces, Ratafia of (a French recipe).— Grate ripe quinces till you' come to the core, but be careful there are no pips. Let the mass remain for three days in an earthen pan squeeze it to extract all the juice: measure it, and QUI ( 68 2) RAB add to itan equal. quantity of brandy. Allow six ounces of sugar to,each quart of the mixture, with some cinnamon and cloves to taste. Let it -infuse for two months, then filter it, and pour it into bottles. This liqueur, when old, is excel- lent. Quin’s Sauce (An old-fashioned fish sauce).—Put a quarter of a pint of walnut pickle into a saucepan, with a quarter of a pint of port, half a pint of mushroom ketchup, a’ dozen anchovies, boned and pounded, a dozen sliced shallots, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and two table-spoonfuls of soy. Simmer all; gently for ten minutes, strain the sauce, and, when cold, bottle for use. Securely corked ‘and stored in ‘a cool place, the’ sauce will keep , for some time. jee a ‘ ~ Quin’s' Sauce: (another way).—To a quart of walnut pickle ‘add six anchovies, six bay- eaves, six ‘shallots, three cloves, a blade of, ‘mace, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and ‘a dozen peppercorns. Boil the whole until the anchovies are dissolved. Take it off the fire;’ when cold, add half a pint of red wine,!and bottle the sauce, corking the bottles well. : Quin’s Sauce. (another way).—To half a pint of mushroom ketchup add a quarter of a pint of walnut pickle, three anchovies, ;two, cloves of. garlic pounded, and as much cayenne. ‘pepper as will cover a shilling. Put it into a bottle and shake-it well; it is then fit, for.use. It must be kept in-a.well-corked bottle. - Quin’s Sauce: (another way)—The fol-'|' . lowing is Dr. Kitchiner’s recipe for tHis sauce: —“It was given me,” he says, “by a very: sagacious sauce-maker.’’ Two wine-glassfuls of: port and two of walnut pickle, four °of mush-' room ketchup, half’ a dozen’ of ‘anchovies: pounded, the like number of éschalots sliced. and pounded, a table-spoonful of soy,'and half a drachm of cayenne ‘pepper. Let: them simmer gently for ten minutes; strain it, and, when: cold, put it into bottles well corked ‘4nd sealed - over; it will keep for a considerable time:' . R Rabbit.—There are two sortg—the tame and the wild. Tame rabbits are the larger of the two, with the flesh white and delicate. Of | these the Ostend rabbits,are most highly valued. | Wild rabbits are considered to possess the finest . flavour. Rabbits are highly estegmed for food, | and are valuable because they can, be served in , so many ways. As the meat is rather dry, bacon , is generally served with them. ‘When used for . the table, they should be young,.and should not’ have been kept more than a day,ortwo, They, have been more thought. of of late. years than they used to be, probably because in their wild ‘ state they are less plentiful than formerly, in | consequence of the advance of §griculture, and | the employment of light lands dor more. profit- able purposes than rabbit-watrens. M. Ude gives some additional particulars on this head ; —“It is to be ‘observed,” he says; “that ree the warren rabbits only ought.to.be sent up.to a good table, tame rabbits in general having no flavour but that of cabbage; and you must be particular in using for table only young rabbits. _Whether they are so may be ascertained by breaking the jaw between the thumb and finger; if they are old, they resist the pressure, ‘Also by feeling in. the joint; of. the -paw. for a little nut ; if it is gone, the rabbit is old and not fit for fine cookery. In such cases use them to make rabbit puddings or pies.” wee THE RABBIT. ., Rabbit (@ la Minute).—Cut a fresh young rabbit into néat joints. Dissolve two or three ounces of butter in a stewpan, put in the pieces of rabbit, and turn them about until they are lightly browned all'over, Pour over. them as auch stock or water as will cover them, and add a little’ pepper.and salt, a blade of mace, two table-spoonfuls of chopped, parsley, and three or four mushrooms if these are to be had. Let all simmer gently together ‘until-the rabbit is done enough, and, ten minutes before it: is taken from the fire, thicken the gravy with a dessert-spoonful of flour. Serve very hot; A ‘| glassful ‘of ‘sherry may be added to the satice | or not. Time altogether, forty minutes. » Pro- | bable cost, 2s: 6d: Sufficient ‘for two or three | persons. , ; pe Rabbit (a la Poulette).—Cut up a fresh young rabbit into neat jomts convenient :for serving. .Lay these in a pie-dish,: cover: with equal parts of milk and water, and let them soak for an hour or two; this: will: render them juicy. and tender. Drain..them, put them into a stewpan, pour over them as much ‘boiling: white, stock or water as will cover them, and .add a tea-spoonful of. salt, half..a tea- spoonful of white .pepper, a bunch of parsley, two small button onions, a blade of mace, and six or eightanushrooms. . Luet-the sauce boil, up, ‘then draw the saucepan to -the side, and let its contents simmer very gently indeed for half aa hour: Take-up-the meat, and set it.aside,for.a ‘short time. Strain the sauce, and boil quickly until it is reduced one-third: Stir into it. two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, put in the.pieces of rabbit, and. let them remain until they are hot RAB ( 683 ) RAB through,-but the sauce must not boil after the meat is put in a second time. Arrange the rabbit in a dish, pour the sauce over it, and garnish with parsley and cut lemon. A glassful of light wine may be added to the sauce or not. Time altogether, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Rabbit (a la Tartare).—A French recipe. —Take a rabbit, and bone it. Then cut it into pieces, which marinade some hours in parsley, mushrooms, chives, and a clove of garlic, all chopped fine, together with~pepper, salt, and oil; dip each piece of rabbit in bread-crumbs, broil, sprinkling the pieces with the marinade. Serve in a sauce @ la Tartare (see Tartar Sauce). Probable cost, rabbit, 7d. to 9d. per pound. . Rabbit and Eel; Matelote of.—Take a plump young rabbit, a’ fine eel, and three. or four ‘slices of bacon. ‘Skin,.empty, and wash | the ‘rabbit,’ cut’ it into: small joints, and if the | head ‘is to be used, split it: in halves, and take | out the eyes. Skin and empty the eel, and» divide it into short lengths... Fry the rabbit and éel in hot fat, together ‘with the’ bacon cut into dice, till all are brightly ‘browned and half cooked’; ‘take’ them’ up, set them aside, and in | the same fat fry half a dozen button onions or two moderate-sized onions'sliced,:and a dozen button mushrooms if these are to be had. When these also are browned, put:them in a clean saucepan with the fried rabbit and eel, and mix as much flour with the hot fat as is required to make a smooth paste. Moisten this with stock or water to make gravy of the consistency of cream, put into this the fried meat, onions, and ‘mushrooms, and add the-liver and heart: .of the : rabbit, a bunch of sweet herbs, ‘and’ a ‘little’ ‘pepper and salt if required.. Simmer all gently together till the rabbit is tender. When done enough, pile the rabbit in the centre of a, dish, arrange the pieces of eel and the bacon round it, and keep the meat hot. Strain the gravy, put a gldseful of ‘wine into it, boil it down till it ig smooth and thick, and pour it’ it over the meat. Serve immediately. When mushrooms are not at hand, a tea-spoonful of anchovy and a spoonful of bruised -capers, or three or four gherkins chopped small, may be: stirréd into the sauce by way of a ‘substitute. This recipe may be used for a rabbit alone, or; an eel alone, as well as for the two together. | Time, half an hour to simmer. the rabbit, &c. : Probable.cost of, rabbit,.7d. to 9d. per pound; eel, very variable. Sufficient for six or seven: Rabbit, Baked.—Skin, draw, and’ wash thoroughly a young rabbit, and, if convenient, let it lie in milk and water for an hour or two. Drain’ it, and‘ cut it up into small neat’ joizits’ convenient for serving: Pepper these lightly,’ place them in a single layer in a, baking-tin, and cover each piece with a rasher, of bacon. : Put the tin into a moderately-heated oven, and. bake the rabbit’ until it: is done, “enough: Arrange the rabbit and ‘bacon alter- ‘nately in ‘a citcle on a‘hot dishjand pour the’ ‘" gravy ‘in thé: tin over ‘thém.. Serve very hot,; “with mashed” potatoes ds ah accompaniment.., -a brisk’ oven. to one hour. Probable cost, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient, one rabbit for two or three persons, - Rabbit, Baked (another way).—Take a plump young rabbit. Skin, empty, and wash it, line the inside with slices of fat ‘bacon, and. fill it with good veal forcemeat. Sew it up securely, and truss it firmly, with the hind legs backward, the back legs forward, and the head in an upright position. Lay a slice of fat bacon over the back, and put the rabbit in a deep dripping-tin, then lay three or four lumps of butter or dripping upon’ it, and place it in a moderate oven. When it is almost done enough, dredge a little flour over it, baste it again, and set it in the oven to brown. - Lift it upon a hot dish, remove the skewers, pour a spoonful or two of good brown gravy over it, and send some more to table in a tureen. Garnish the dish ‘with slices of fat bacon. If liked, red- ‘currant jelly’ may accompany the baked rabbit. Time to bake, from three-quarters of an hour to one hour; less if the. rabbit.is small. Pro- bable cost of rabbit, 7d, to 9d. per pound. Suf- ficient for five or six persons. ’ Rabbit, Baked, and Macaroni.—Cut a ‘rabbit into joints, or truss it if preferred; butter it: well, and lay it in a baking-dish on some slices of ham. Place it in a moderately- heated oven, and let it remain’ there, basting now and then with more butter. Take a quarter of a pound of Naples macaroni, break it in pieces about two inches in length, and throw these into a stewpan of boiling -stock. ‘Let the macaroni simmer till tender, then strain it; mix with it one ounce of white sugar, and ‘two ounces of fresh butter, season to taste, and add to the rabbit a table-spoonful of brandy and a table-spoonfulof lemon-juice. Place the macaroni in the dish with the rabbit, bake until the macaroni is of a pleasant brown colour, and send to table in the dish in which the rabbit ‘was baked. Time, the rabbit must have been at least half an hour in the oven before the addition of the macaroni. Rabbit, Baked, with Rice.—Cut up a ‘fat young rabbit into neat joints, and pepper these rather highly. Dissolve.three or four ounces of bacon fat or good dripping in a sauce- pan, ‘put in the pieces of rabbit, and let them ‘steam over a gentle fire until they‘ are lightly browned. and’ half. dressed.: Take. them up, drain them, and put them aside. Wash half a pound of rice, and put it into a saucepan with a quart of -nicely-Alavoured stock and half a blade of mace. Let it. simmer until it is tender and had absorbed the liquor, then let it'cool, and stir in with it a large slice of fresh butter and the yolks of four eggs. Butter a deep dish, lay the pieces of rabbit into it, pour over them a large spoonful of chutnee, and then. spread the rice ori the top. Lay the beaten yolks of two ‘eggs upon the rice, and bake the preparation in Serve very hot in the dish in which it was baked! Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 3s.4d.. Sufficient for five or six persons... Rabbit, Boiled.—This is the usual and Time to bake, from three-quayters of an hour | one. of the most acceptable ways of dressing RAB ( 684 ) BAB rabbits. Choose moderately young rabbits, skin, draw, and wash them. Truss them with the heads skewered to the sides, drop them into boiling water, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Drain them, and serve either with onion, liver, white, or mushroom sauce, or parsley and butter. The first of these is generally preferred. Send boiled bacon to table with the boiled rabbits, or garnish the dish with rashers of broiled bacon. The flesh of a boiled rabbit will be rendered more juicy and tender if it is soaked in milk and water for a couple of hours before being boiled. Its flavour, too, will be improved if an onion, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, half a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt are put into the water with it. Time to simmer the rabbits, thirty to forty-five minutes, according to age and size. A very young rabbit will be done enough in twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient, two rabbits for five or six persons. Rabbit, Boiled (Dr. Kitchiner’s recipe). —Truss the rabbits short, lay them in a basin of warm water for ten minutes, then put them into plenty of water, and boil them about half an hour; if large ones, three quarters; if very old, an hour; smother them with plenty of white onion sauce, mince the liver, and lay it round the dish, or make liver sauce, and send it up in a boat. Ask those you are going to make liver sauce for, if they like plain liver sauce, or liver and parsley, or liver and lemon sauce. It will save much trouble to the carver if the rabbits be cut up in the kitchen into pieces fit to serve at table, and the head divided, one half laid at each end, and slices of lemon and the liver chopped very finely laid on the sides of the dish. At all events, cut off the head before you send it to table. We hardly remember that the thing ever lived if we do not see the head, while it may excite ugly ideas to see it cut up in an attitude imitative of life; besides, for the preservation of the] head the poor animal sometimes suffers a slower death. Rabbit, Boiled, and Onions, — Take one or two rabbits, skin them, and skewer as for boiling ; put them into warm water in order to extract all the blood; when they are very white, boil in boiling water and a little salt. They will take from three-quarters to one hour. Make the sauce as follows :—Peel a dozen white onions, cut off the tops and tails, then cut them into six pieces each, put them to boil in boiling water and a little salt; when nearly done, drain them on a sieve, put them into a clean towel, squeeze out the water, then chop them very fine; put them into a stewpan with half a quarter of a pound of butter, let them fry to drain the water away; then put half a spoonful of flour, mix well together, and moisten with cream or milk, but cream is preferable ; next let this sauce boil down on a sharp fire, put some salt and pepper to it, and amake it rather thick. Drain the rabbits, and cover them with this sauce. Rabbit, Boiled, To Carve. — First separate the legs and shoulders; then cut the back across into two parts. This may readily be accomplished by inserting the knife in the joint, and raising up the back with the fork. ‘As in the case of the hare, the back of the rabbit is best worth eating. Some liver-sauce should always be served with boiled rabbit. RABBIT, BOILED, TO CARVE. Rabbit, Boudins of.—Take the white flesh of a rabbit. Free it from skin and sinew, mince finely, pound well, and make into a delicate forcemeat, by mixing with each pound of meat two ounces of butter, one ounce of fat bacon, and a dessert-spoonful of flour. Season. the forcemeat with salt, pepper, and pounded mace, flavour with dressed onions or mush- rooms finely minced, and bind it together with one or two yolks of eggs. Beat till it is quite smooth. Spread it on a dish, and form the forcemeat into small sausages. Put these into a stewpan, cover with boiling stock, and let them simmer gently until the forcemeat is set. Drain them, dish them in a circle, pour over them some nicely-flavoured brown sauce, and serve very hot. If liked, two or three pounded potatoes, or a small portion of panada, may be mixed with the forcemeat; if so the flour should be omitted. This is a convenient way of using the remains of cold dressed rabbit. Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil the boudins. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Rabbit, Boudins of (a la Reine).— Prepare in the same manner as croquettes (see Rabbit, Croquettes of: M. Ude’s way); roll the meat into large boudins, sausage shape, dip into egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them. Serve under them some velouté, with a little glaze of game. For croquettes or boudins @ Ja reine, made of fowls, rabbits, or game, if you should have by you some sweetbreads, they will be a great improvement, as they make them more mellow and delicate. Rabbit, Broiled (a la Maintenon).—Cut up a fresh young rabbit into neat joints con- venient for serving. Put these into a stewpan, pour over them as much good stock as will barely cover them, and put with them a bunch of parsley, one or two sticks of celery, two ‘onions, a blade of mace, a sliced carrot, six: or eight peppercorns, and half a dozen mushrooms. Let them simmer gently for half an hour. Take them up, drain them, and let them cool. Cut as many pieces of writing-paper as there are pieces of rabbit, butter these, and lay inside each one a piece of fat bacon. Lay the rabbit on this, and sprinkle over it a little white pepper and grated nutmeg. Fold the paper round the meat, and broil the pieces of rabbit over a clear fire until the bacon has had time to cook suf- ficiently. Serve in the papers. Thicksn the RAB ( 685 ) RAB gravy with a little brown thickening, and send it to table in.a tureen. Time to. broil the rabbit, ten minutes. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. Rabbit Cake (a breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish).—Take the white meat from two young rabbits. Put the bones into a saucepan, cover them with cold water, add an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt, and let.these ingredients stew gently until the gravy is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain, thicken with a little flour and butter, stir one or two spoonfuls of cream into the gravy, and let it boil until it is smooth and of | the consistency of custard. Take the weight of the meat in fat bacon, cut this into small pieces, and melt these in a saucepan over a gentle fire. In two or three minutes put the pieces of rabbit into the pan with them, accompanied by a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a little pepper, and stir all with a wooden spoon until the meat is sufficiently dressed. Turn the contents of the saucepan into a mortar with half the quan- tity of panada (see Panada), pound all together to a smooth paste, and rub this through a hair sieve. Moisten the forcemeat with a small quantity of the sauce made from the bones, and bind it together with the yolks of two or three eggs. Taste the forcemeat, to ascertain whether or not it is pleasantly flavoured, and, if further seasoning is required, pound the mixture again after it is added. A few mushrooms or truffles cut small may be added if liked. Butter two round moulds of different sizes, and press the forcemeat into these. Cover them, put them into a large pan containing boiling water three or four inches deep, and keep this boiling | until the forcemeat is sufficiently cooked. Let it get cold. When wanted, turn the larger cake upon a dish, put the smaller cake on the top of it, and place a ring of clear aspic jelly on the top of all. Garnish the dish with aspic jelly cut into dice, and, if liked, place a border of rice round the cake. When prettily ornamented it is ready for serving. Time to boil the cakes, half an’hour to an hour and a quarter, ac- | cording to size. Probable cost of rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Rabbit, Cold, To Dress. —Joint the meat, beat up an egg or two with a little grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt, some parsley minced fine, and some bread-crumbs; dip the meat into the batter, sprinkle with crumbs, have ready some sweet beef-dripping hot in a pan, and fry the meat to a light brown ; thicken a little gravy with flour, put a large spoonful of ketchup to it, lay the fry in a hot dish, pour the gravy round it, not over it, and serve hot; garnish with lemon and toast. Rabbit, Croquettes of.—Pick the meat from the remains of roast rabbit, and free it from skin and sinew. Mince finely, adding to it a third of its weight in lean ham, and season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Put the mixture into a stewpan with a slice of fresh butter and one or two table-spoonfuls of thick cream or white sauce, and stir over a gentle fire for five or six minutes. Taste if it be nicely seasoned, and spread it on a dish to cool. If liked, one or two mushrooms or trufiles can be added to the forcemeat. Divide the pre- paration into portions of an equal size, mould these into the shape of corks or balls, brush over with oil, roll them in egg and bread- crumbs, and fry in hot fat till they are crisp and lightly browned. Drain them, sprinkle a little salt over them, pile them on a napkin, and garnish with parsley. If liked, tomato or piquant sauce can be sent to table in a tureen. Time to fry, five to seven minutes. Rabbit, Croquettes of (M. Ude’s way). Cut the meat of young roasted rabbits into dice, which throw in some béchamel boiled down, add- ing a little glaze of game. Let this cool, then roll it into whatever shape you please, either into balls, or into the shape of a cork or pear. Fry the croquettes, and send up as other cro- quettes; garnish with fried parsley in the centre of the dish. It is necessary to observe respect- ing croquettes, or any other articles made use of in cookery, that the less you handle them the better. Put the preparation of the cro- quettes in a flat long dish; lével it with the knife till you have it the thickness required : mark with the knife the number of croquettes you intend to make. Then take them off the dish, roll them in your hand as little as possible, put them in the crumbs of bread, and roll the magain in the omelet (eggs beat with a little salt), and make them of equal sizes in a cover of a stewpan till such time as you wish to fry them, and serve very hot. Rabbit, Curried.—Take two fresh young rabbits and half a pound of streaky bacon. Cut the bacon into small squares, and divide the rabbit into pieces convenient for serving. Fry the bacon in two ounces of butter. As the pieces of bacon brown take them out and lay them on a separate dish; put in the pieces of rabbit, brown them also, and lift them out: then fry in the fat three or four sliced onions and two sour apples finely minced. When these are soft, rub them patiently through a sieve, and mix the pulp very smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, a dessert- spoonful of curry powder, half » tea-spoonful of flour, and a pint of stock, or, failing this, a pint of water and half a tea-spoonful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat. Put the gravy into a stewpan with the rabbit and bacon, and let all simmer very gently together until the rabbit is sufficiently cooked, which it will be when the flesh leaves the bone easily. Pile the rabbit. on a dish, pour the gravy over, and serve with rice boiled for curry on a separate dish. The flavour of this dish, which is a common one and a general favourite, may be varied in many ways. A little celery or a few mushrooms may be simmered with the gravy, ora clove of garlic may be added when the flavouring is liked, or alittle fresh cocoa-nut may be rasped and stewed with it, or a cupful of milk or cream may be added to the sauce. If the apples are not at. hand the juice of a lemon may be substituted for them. Time to stew the rabbit in the curry sauce, two hours. . Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. RAB ( 686») RAB’ Rabbit Curry: (see Fowl, Veal,: or Rabbit Rabbit en Papillotes (2 French recipe). —Take some young’. and. tender rabbits, 'cut | them into joints, and let them marinade-some hours in parsley, mushrooms, chives,..and a clove of garlic, all chopped fine, together with pepper, salt, and oil. Cover each piece of rabbit with some of this seasoning and.a slice of bacon cut very thin; wrap. each separately in well-buttered white paper; broil over a. gentle fire, and serve in the paper as hot.as. possible:' Probable cost; rabbits, 7d. to 9d. per: pound, gens _ Rabbit, Fricandeau of.—Take the fleshy portion of a.large fat rabbit—that is, the hind-quarters and the loins cut off close to the shoulder-blades. Lard’ the flesh evenly and closely, and lay it in a deep baking-dish. Pour upon it as much nicely-flavoured stock as will | cover it, fasten a piecé of buttered paper over the dish, and bake the rabbit in a moderate oven until it is quite tender, being careful to baste it frequently, and to add a little more stock if required. Lift the rabbit out of the gravy,” and keep it hot. Boil the liquor quickly in which it was baked till it begins to thicken. Have ready a tea-cupful of rich tomato sauce. Spread this on a hot‘dish.. Lay the rabbit upon it, pass a red hot shovel over the larding, to make it crisp, dnd pour the gravy over all. Serve very hot. Time to bake the fricandeau, two hours. Probable cost, 3s.’6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. i es Rabbit, Fricasseed.—Cuta young rabbit into neat joints, lay it’ in a stewpan, arid cover with good stock. Let the liquid. boil, then put with it three onions, three‘carrots, three turnips; and three sticks of celery, all sliced; add a bunch of parsley, a sprig: of thyme, a blade of mace, a salt-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and a small piece of sugar, and stew all: gently together until the vegetables are quite soft. Lift the vegetables out, and rub‘them: through a sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. Stir the purée! over''the firé with a table-spoonful of the ‘gravy for two 'or three minutes to make | it quite hot. Put the pieces of rabbit on a dish, cover with the purée, and pour the sauce overall, Serve very. hot. Time, one hour. Probable ‘cost, 3s. Sufficient for four or five er: pig ty : : Rabbit, Fricasseed, Brown.—Skin, empty, and clean a rabbit, preserving the liver and heart. Wash it, and afterwards dry it well in a soft cloth, and cut it into neat joints con- venient for serving.’ If it is intended to make use of the head, split it open; and take out'the eyes. Dissolve a slice of butter and a slice of lard:in ‘a saucepan, and fry the pieces of rabbit in the fat. When they are nicely | browned, take them out, and lay them aside. Mince three onions finely, fry them until brown, and put them with the rabbit. Stir a’ dessert-spoonful of flour: into the fatj-and beat. it with the back of a wooden spoon until it is quite smooth, and of a bright brown colour. Moisten gradually with as much stock or water as is required to make it of the: con~ sistency of thick cream, and add to it a bunch | of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves,; a little: salt: and pepper, and ai clove of garlic, if | this is liked... Put in the pieces of rabbit, and let all simmer gently together until the rabbit is sufficiently dressed. Just before the fricasseb+ is served, put into it a glassful of claret or port. . Time, one hour.. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for four or five persons. “ : Rabbit, Fricasseed, White. — Skn, empty, and wash a nice young rabbit, and afterwards dry it-well in a.soft cloth. .Drain it, and cut it- into neat. joints: convenient for serving. Put it. into.a stewpan, pour over it as much white stock or water as will barely cover it, and add.two ohions, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a blade of mace, the pecl.of half a _ lemon, and a little salt. Simmer all. gently together for three-quarters of an hour, lift out the pieces of rabbit, and put them aside. Mix | a dessert-spoonful of flour very smoothly with | a tea-cupful of milk or cream, adda tea-cup- | ful of the gravy, and put the liquor into a clean saucepan with a slice ‘of butter rolled in flour. Stir it until it boils, then let it simmer | gently watil it is so thick that it will coat the spoon. Put the pieces of rabbit into this sauce, ’. and let them get quite hot. Add pepper and. salt if required, and at the last moment stir the juice of a lemon into the sauce. Arrange. the pieces of rabbit on a hot.dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with cut lemon.’ This fri- cassee will be'very. much improved if a dozen or | more blanched mushrooms are simmered with the gravy ten minutes before it is taken from the fire. Time, one hour. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Bie | Rabbit, Fricasseed, White (another and: a superior: way).—Prepare a rabbit as in the, last. recipe. Dissolve two ounces of butter , in a stewpan, sprinkle a little salt and pepper | over the pieces of rabbit, put them into the saucepan, and with them a dozen button onions and half a pint of blanched mush- rooms. Let all simmer gently in the butter for three or four minutes, cheting the sauce- ‘pan frequently, in order to keep the pieces of rabbit from acquiring any colour. . Dredge two ounces of flour over them, pour on them half -a- pint of stock or water, and add a: glassful of, sherry or madeira, if liked. Let the fricassee . boil, then draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for half an hour, or longer if- the rabbit is large. Carefully remove the scum and the fat as they’rise to the surface. Season the gravy with' a little salt and pepper, if required, and add a little grated nutmeg, a pinch of cayenne, and a lump of sugar the size of a marble. Beat the yolks of two eggs witha quarter of a pint of cream, take the fricassee from the fire for one minute, then stir ‘a small portion of the gravy into the cream, and after- wards mix it with the rest. Stir over the fire till it is quite hot, but dén'‘no account allow it to boil after the eggs are added. At the last moment stir in a table-spoonful of emon-juice. ‘Arrange the pieces of rabbit on a hot dish, place the ‘mushrooms and onions round them, and pour the sauce over all... Garnish with cut lemon: Serve very hot.../Time, one hour or more. Probable cost,.4s. Sufficient’ for:four or five persons. ak aa 5 ef RAB ( 687 ) RAB Rabbit, Fried,—Skin, empty, wash; and’ soak a young rabbit, and: cut it into neat pieces the size of an egg. Flour these well, and fry in’ plenty of-;boiling’. dripping: :till they are brightly: “browned, moving: them about con- stantly that they may be equally dressed. Lay a slice of butter:on:a hot dish, and stir into this.a small shallot finely minced, and a table-spoonful of good sauce, with a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, if this is liked. - Arrange the pieces of rabbit neatly on a dish, and serve.very hot.. Fried bacon. is a suitable accompaniment to this dish. If ‘there is any suspicion that the rabbit is stale, it shouldbe thrown into boiling water, and kept boiling quickly for five or six minutes, then drained,.:cooled, and.:cut up as above, Time to fry, ten’ to:fifteen minutes. Probable: cost, rabbit, 7d. to 9d.i per pound... Sufficient: for three or four persons.” | BOP Oy Rabbit, Fried (another way),—Prepare the rabbit as in the preceding recipe. Put three, fable-spoonfuls ‘of Lucca oil into a sauce- pan with an ounce of butter, and a little pepper, salt,.and powdered spice. Let the butter melt, and putin the pieces of rabbit, place the sauce- pan upon a brisk fire, and, stir its contents frequently till’ they are sufficiently dressed. Lift them out, stir an ounce of flour,inte the hot fat, and beat out any: lumps that, there may be with the back of a wooden. spgon,, Moisten this with half a pint of nicely-flavoured , stock, and a glassful of sherry, let it boil for. five minutes, and strain it. Put it back into. the saucepan with the rabbit, a.shallot finely minced, and a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. When the sauce is, on the, point of, boiling, lift out the pieces of rabbit, arrange them neatly on a dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve very hot. Time, twenty minutes to fry the rabbit. Probable cost, 2s. 8d., exclusive of the wine.. Sufficient for three or four persons. Rabbit, Fried (another way)—Prepare the rabbit as before, and cut it up into pieces, not larger than.a hen’s egg.; Dip these: into beaten egg, and afterwards into nicely-seasoned ‘bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat till they are brightly. browned. Pile them. on a hot dish, pour the gravy round them, and serve very hot. The gravy may be prepared as follows :—Wash ‘the liver of the rabbit, and boil it‘ for five minutes, let it get. cold,.and mince it, finely. Simmer 'anineh:'or two of lemon-rind in a quarter of a pint of gravy till it is pleasantly flavoured. Strain, it, and. thicken with half a tea-spoonful of thicken- ing, or, failing this, with a small lump of butter rolled ‘in flour. When: the sauce is of the proper consistency, stir in the liver and two.. table‘spoonfuls of cream. Let it -boil-for. one minute, and it will be ready for use. : If-liked, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice may be added just Defore it is- poured round the rabbits, or ‘the. cream may be omitted, and a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup used instead of it. Time, a quarter of an jhour to fry the rabbits. Pro- bable. cost, 2s. 3d... Sufficient for three or four persons. & & , ‘Rabbit, Galantine of (a breakfast, | hinecheon, ‘or’ ‘supper dish).—Take two plump young rabbits. Cut off the. heads, entirely. remove the bones from both, and fasten slices of fat bacon over one, to cover the outer. or ‘skin side of it. Mince ,the flesh of the other. ‘rabbit finely, and with it an equal,quantity of. fat bacon, and a little pepper, and. powdered; mace. No salt will be required, as it is pro- bable that the bacon will be sufficiently salted. Lay the boned rabbit flat on a table, ‘spread. half the forcemeat upon it, arrange on this some strips of ham,.tongue, and bacon, together with a truffle. or. two or a few mushrooms: chopped small, if these are at hand,. and spread ‘another layer of forcemeat over all. Sew up the rabbit neatly, as nearly: as possible in its: original.form, fasten it securely that the force- ‘meat, &o., may not escape,‘and tie it in a white cloth. Lay two or three slices of bacon at the bottom, of a saucepan, place the rolled meat upon these, and add the heads and bones of ‘the rabbit and. any other bones there may be, together with two carrots, a large onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of parsley, a'sprig of: thyme, a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Pour over these ingredients as much good. stock as will barely cover them, and simmer all very gently together, carefully’ renioving the scum.as it rises, until the galantine is done enough, that is, until it can be easily pierced with a skewer. Let the galantine get ¢old in’ ‘the liquor in which it was stewed. Lift it‘out, strain the liquor, boil it’ down’ until it is so far reduced that:it will form a jelly when cold,’ and clarify with white of egg. ‘Pour this jelly upon’ plates, that it may set firm, brush- ing one or two coats of it over the ‘galantine to serve as glaze. Dish the galantine on a white napkin, and garnish with the savoury jelly, ‘eut into dice, cubes, stars, &c. “A galantine is always served cold. Time to simmer, three or four hours. Probable cost of rabbits,.7d. to'9d. per pound. © "© no Rabbits, Giblottes of—Taketwo young” rabbits to make a giblotte ; ‘but, observe, they must.be both alike as to quality ; if you put a ‘young one, with an old one, the young one will be done to ‘rags, while the other one. will be ‘scarcely done at all. “Skin them, and. cut them into pieces. Have ready some pieces, of’ breast of bacon cut into the. shape of small corks, which are to be blanched¢o that they may not be briny. Fry.them in the stewpan with a little butter to give thema light browncolour. Take the bacon out of the stewpan,.and put the members of the rabbits:into it :, when made firm, takeithem out also; throw a good handful’ of flour with the ‘butter into the stewpan, let it get a little brown ; next moisten with some veal gravy. Let the sauce boil a little, to see whether it is not too. thick; if so, you will never be able to skim off the fat, and accordingly it: will never be of a:good colour... When. sufficiently: stewed, put in. the. members, bacon, a bunch of parsley: and green onions,~ thyme, bay-leaf, clove, &c..&c.;) and when the sauce has boiled:for an: hour, skim. it well, and put the members into another clean stewpan, and drain the sauce through a'tammy ; then take some turned mushrooms and some small onions, ‘and fry them white:in butter ; let 1é6t them. boil for a:quarter of an hour in the RAB ( 688 ) RAB sauce. When you are going to send up to table, first dish the members, next the small white onions, and then put the bacon and the mush- rooms over. Take off the fat and scum, other- wise there can be no good cookery; and cover the whole with the sauce when reduced. Rabbit Kldésse.—Mince finely the white meat of a cold-dressed rabbit. Soak an equal quantity of bread in cold milk or water, squeeze it dry, and mix it with the minced meat. Cut one or two slices of fat bacon into small squares, and fry them gently. Add the minced meat, and stir in one or two eggs. Let the mixture cook a few minutes. Turn it out on a dish, and when cool add two more eggs. Form it into balls the size of an egg, and be careful to handle them lightly, and to dip the fingers frequently in water while doing so. When wanted drop these gently into boiling water, and boil them until they are set. Lift them out with a skimmer, pile them in the centre of a small dish, and surround them with fried potatoes. Send any piquant sauce or gravy to table with them. Time to boil, about ten minutes. Rabbit, Larded.—Skin, empty,and wash a fat young rabbit, cut off its head, and divide the body into four equal parts. Lard the fleshy part of each portion with thin strips of fat bacon, fry the quarters in hot fat till they are lightly browned, and lay them aside. Put about a pint and a half of nicely-flavoured and seasoned stock into a saucepan, thicken ,with a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening, and let it simmer gently until it is smooth and of the consistency of cream. Stir into it a glassful of sherry or madeira, add the rabbit, and let it remain until it is thoroughly hot without boiling. Put the meat on a hot dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Time, half an hour, exclusive of the time required for making the stock. Probable cost, 2s. 6d., without the wine. Sufficient for three or four persons. Rabbit, Marbled (to be eaten cold— suitable for breakfast, luncheon, or supper).— Take a couple of fine rabbits. Skin, empty, and wash them ; take out the livers and kidneys, and fry them in plenty of hot fat till they are tender and darkly coloured, then lay them aside. Put the rabbits into boiling water, and let them remain in it for five minutes. This is to blanch them. Take them up, drain them, put them into a stewpan, pour over them as much cold water as will cover them, and add an onion stuck with four cloves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and u little pepper and salt. Let them simmer gently till tender, and carefully skim the broth. Cut off the heads and necks of the rabbits, lift the fiesh from the bones in large neat pieces, and lay these aside. Scrape off the remainder of the meat from the bones, take care of it, and put all the bones into a clean saucepan with the rabbit broth and half an ounce of gelatine which has been soaked for an hour in cold water. Put into this a small portion of ham or bacon, and let it simmer till done enough, then take it out, and let the gravy simmer till it is reduced to a pint. Strain the gravy through a jelly-bag, carefully clear it from fat, and if necessary clarify it with white of egg, and season it well. Mince the scrapings of the meat with an equal quantity of fat bacon, add the weight of the meat in finely-grated bread- crumbs, season the mixture with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and powdered herbs, bind it together with egg, and form it into balls the size of a small nutmeg. Throw these into boiling water till they are set—they will take about ten minutes. Dip a deep mould into cold water, pour into this a small portion of the gravy just before it jellies, and let it fow round and round until it begins to set. Arrange the pieces of rabbit in this, together with the ham or bacon cut into strips, the liver and kidney sliced, the forcemeat balls, and one or two hard-boiled eggs cut-into quarters. Be | Rose Brandy, for Flavouring Cakes and Puddings.—Fill a bottle with freshly-. gathered rose-leaves, and -shake them down. . Pour brandy over them to cover thei, cork'the, . bottle closely, and store the infusion for us,” , . Rose. Cream.——Boil a pint of milk, sweeten it; and flavour, Avith,a table-spoonful of rose brandy.. Drop into it while boiling the whites ‘of four.eggs in-separate table-spoonfuls.. "Turn thesé over once or twice in the hot milk till they are, just‘set, then lift them carefully out, _ and put them:on a sieve to’ ‘drain.. ‘Make a, ‘custard’ with-the yolks of the eggs and.the milk, and stir:this over the fire till it begins 'to thicken. ‘An additional pint of milk-may: be . added or not.: Put it.into a custard-bowl, and | when it js cold lay the poached-egg whites Sprinkle: hundreds and thousands over, these, or lay. upon. them, candied peel, cut i into: shreds, and then serve. . Time to poach the, egg-whites, half.a minute. Pro able ; cost, 1B.. ' Sufficient for three or four persons.- .- |, Rose Custard: (2 French recipe).--Boil a ‘pint-of good milk; when it boils up, set it on one side of the fire, and sweeten to taste, adding some essence of rose and a little carmine in. . powder by way of colouring. . ilst this in- Hiaon is going on, take. the yolks of eighteen | or.twenty eggs, put them into a deep dish, and with a ;wooden..spoon. keep turning them, ‘till | they: are well mixed. To these ingredients ‘add by degrees, the milk, keeping it turned all. . ROS (772) ROS the time; then strain the mixture; put it again into the saucepan, set it on the fire, keep stirring it till it thickens, but on no account allow it to poil, or all will be spoiled. To prevent it, keep stirring it with one hand, holding the other on the handle of the saucepan to remove it in- stantly. Strain the mixture a second time into custard-cups or a deep bowl. ‘‘ This,” says A. von Kochheim, “‘ is a most delicious custard, as delicate as celebrated.” Rose Drops.—Put a pound of loaf sugar into a saucepan with two ounces of water. Stir it over a slow fire till it is dissolved, and add a few drops of essence of rose, and three or four drops of cochineal. When the syrup is on the point of simmering, take it from the fire, stir it a few minutes longer, and drop it in small rounds upon an oiled slab or dish. Let the drops cool, then remove them with the point of -a knife. Or dry half an ounce of red rose-leaves, pound them to powder,’ and sift carefully. Mix with them one pound of finely-powdered sugar, and add as much strained lemon-juice as will make a stiff paste. Stir this mixture over a slow fire till it is scalding hot, then drop it in small rounds upon an oiled dish, and set them in a warm place for twenty-four hours. Rose Juice (a German recipe).—“To a pint of honey take two ounces of red and two ounces of white roses, two ounces of the flowers of sage, and two ounces of the flowers of black- , thorn; pound them well, and when the honey is clarified, putthemin. Boil it until it becomes a’ thick syrup, pour it through a tamis, and put it into glasses. The thick sediment that remains may be also used, adding a spoonful or two of honey to it. Juices may be pressed in like manner from violets, pinks, and corn- flowers.” Rose Sauce for Sweet Puddings, &c.—Take a fresh beetroot, peel it, and cut it into small pieces. Put it into a saucepan, pour over it a quart of cold water, and let it boil softly for half an hour. Add the strained juice and thin rind of a fresh lemon, two pounds of loaf sugar, and three or four drops of vanilla. Boil the sauce quickly until it. forms a thick rose-coloured syrup, then strain it, and when it is cold mix with it a quarter of a pint of brandy. Bottle and store for use. Time to boil the syrup, about half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 1s. 2d. Rose Tea.—-Pour a pint of boiling water over an ounce of red rose-leaves. Cover the infusion, and let it remain for ten minutes. Filter it, sweeten it with honey, and drink a glassful cold the first thing in the morning. Time to infuse, ten minutes. Rose tea in some complaints is a useful tonic. Rose-water.—When the buds of the red rose begin to expand into the full-blown flower, their perfume is most perfect, and in that state they should be gathered on a dry morning, the heels cut off, and the leaves only put into a clean cask in layers, with salt sprinkled between: them, to preserve them till they are collected in quantity sufficient for distillation. ‘Fill the still two-thirds with the petals and salt together, with a little water at the bottom to prevent * purpose. burning, and have the still put into a water bath; proceed to the distillation with a very slow fire, and receive the first product in several phials in order to examine it. The first will be highly impregnated; and as soon as the slightest empyreumatic odour or burnt smell is perceived, throw away the portion that is contaminated, and stop the distillation. Rose-water should be kept in a cool, dark'place, as heat and light speedily cause it to spoil. It is best to put it into a stone jar witha cork, that it may be drawn off without disturbing the sediment, which is apt to be the case if decanted from small bottles. It should be made in small quantities at a time, as it will not. keep long. The salted leaves will keep for months, and do as well for distillation as when gathered ‘fresh, and it is to be observed that it is an error to suppose that the salt is of any further use in the distillation than to keep the leaves from spoiling. Perfumed tepid water for finger- glasses may be easily prepared by infusing a few fresh or dried rose-petals, lavender, or any other flower, in the morning for the Rosemary.—The leaves of the rosemary are infused in some drinks, and the sprigs are employed as a garnish. The plant is evergreen, and highly aromatic. Rosemary and Baked Lamb (see. Lamb, Baked, and Rosemary). Rosemary Flowers, To Candy.— Soak a little gum-tragacanth (commonly called gum-dragon) in water, and soak the rosemary’ flowers in the mucilage thus. prepared. Lay: them on a sheet of paper, and sprinkle powdered. loaf sugar over them. Put them in a warm place, and sprinkle powdered sugar over them frequently till they are covered with candy. Store in a cool dry place. : Roses, Tincture of.—Take the leaves of the common rose and place them, without pressing, in an ordinary bottle; pour some good: spirits of wine upon them, close the bottle, and set aside till required for use. Common vinegar is greatly improved by a very small quantity of the tincture of roses being added to it. : Roseneath Puddings.—Take two eggs, and their weight in flour, butter, and sugar. Beat the butter to cream, add the sugar, flour, and eggs, and any flavouring that may be pre- ferred. Butter some small cups, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve cold, with almonds sliced. and cut into strips stuck into the puddings. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. ‘ Ross’s Mixture for Devilled Meats. —Put a table-spoonful of chutney into a bowl, and work into it with the back of a wooden spoon one ounce and a half of fresh butter, a dessert-spoonful of salt, a dessert:spoonful of mixed mustard, atable-spoonful of Harvey Sauce, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and four table- spoonfuls of good cold gravy. Beat the mixture till smooth, dip the meat to’ be devilled into it, stew it softly till it is warmed through, and serve. - ROT (773 ) ROU Réti de Pauvre Homme.—Take a fine pullet or capon, the fattest procurable. Make a forcemeat, consisting of some finely-chopped sausage-meat, raw veal and Jean ham, cock’s Kidneys and combs, dried artichoke bottoms, maushrooms, truffles, some shred parsley, a little lemon thyme and sweet basil, one anchovy washed, boned, and-chopped fine—the whole | chopped and well mixed together, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little grated nutmeg, with a good lump of fresh butter well incorporated with it. With this forcemeat fill the fowl by the vent, which sew up afterwards. Saturate with butter or olive-oil three or four sheets of writing-paper, and carefully dredge the fowl with flour. Envelope the bird in the paper two layers thick, and cover the whole with another layer slightly buttered. Bury the bird thus prepared in hot wood-ashes until it is cooked, or put it in a range oven, covered with a dish, which must exclude the air from beneath. Réti de Rognons de Veau.—Take kidneys which have been carefully roasted before the fire, chop them up with fat, and mix them with mushrooms cut small and fried in butter, and also with parsley, chives, bay-leaves, and thyme. Season with pepper and salt, and make the chopped kidneys into a paste of the proper consistence for forcemeat with the yolks of some raw eggs. Place thick layers of this on slices of fried bread from which the crust has been cut off. Sprinkle bread-crumbs over mixed with raw eggs. Place the slices of ‘bread thus prepared on a dish put over some live cinders, and covered with a hot cover. Rotterdam Pudding, Rich. — Beat four ounces and a half of fine flour toa smooth paste with half a pint of milk, and add four ounces and a half of sugar and « small pinch of salt. Blanch and pound four ounces and a half of sweet almonds, and whilst pounding drop in a little cold water to keep them from oiling. Put four ounces and a half of ‘butter into a saucepan with half a pint of milk. Let it remain until the butter is melted, then stir in the paste of flour and milk, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire until it boils and becomes thick, when it may be poured out to cool. Add the blanched and pounded almonds, then stir in first the well-beaten yolks of nine eggs, and afterwards the whites of the eggs whisked till firm. Beat the pudding briskly for a few minutes, pour it into a buttered basin which it will fill, tie it in a cloth, and let it boil without ceasing until done enough. Turn it out carefully, and send wine sauce to table with it. Time to boil, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Roulette, Lobster.—Boil the lobsters, take out the meat, and chop it up; pound the shells with butter, set them on the fire, and add half a pint of water. When it has boiled a quarter of an hour, strain it, set the liquor again on the fire with two ounces of flour, a little pounded mace, and a pinch of sugar; add bouillon ‘to it till it becomes like thick pap; then stir in the chopped lobster and a little salt ; when quite cold, make~it into shapes, and pro- ceed as in the next recipe. Roulettes (a Danish recipe)—Take one ounce of grated onion, and brown it in an ounce and a half of butter, together with two ounces of flour; thin the mixture with ‘half a pint of good stock. Let all boil. together till it is smooth, then stir in half a pound of any roasted or boiled meat, finely chopped ; add three boned anchovies minced, pounded pepper, salt, a little mace, the juice of half a lemon, and a glassful of white wine. When the preparation is quite cold, cut it into the form of sausages; roll these in bread-crumbs, then in egg beaten up, then again in bread and egg, and last of all in bread- crumbs; fry in plenty of hot lard; garnish with fried parsley,and serve. The above ingredients are enough for about sixteen roulettes. ‘ .. Roulettes, Fish.—Take perch, pike, or cod; boil and pick away all bone and skin. To every half-pound of picked fish, take one ounce of flour; brown the flour in two ounces of butter, and thin it with milk till it becomes a thickish paste; add the fish to this paste along with a little pounded mace and salt; give it a boil up, set it aside till cold; then cut up, and proceed as directed in the previous recipe. Rout Biscuits.—Three pounds of flour, six ounces of butter, one pound and a quarter of loaf-sugar in powder, half a pint of milk, quarter of an ounce of volatile salts finely powdered, and a little essence of lemon. Put the sugar and volatile salts in the milk, and let them stand for an hour or two, stirring them occasionally. : Another method. One pound of sugar, a tea- cupful of milk or water, four ounces of butter, and half an ounce of volatile salts. Put the sugar and milk in a clean saucepan over the fire, let them boil up, and see if all the sugar is dis- solved; if not, give it another boil or two, and set it aside to cool. It will be ready for use when cold. Rub the butter in with the flour, make a bay, pour in the sugar, and make the whole into a dough of a moderate stiffness. In the last method, the volatile salts should be pounded and mixed with the sugar, and sufficient flour should be used to make them of a proper con- sistence, keeping the dough in a loose state until it is nearly of the size required; then work it together; take a part of the dough, mould it in a square piece, and lay it over the impressions or figures carved in a block of wood, and press it in; keep your hand firm on it, that it may retain its place; have a thin knife which is made for this purpose, called a toy knife, rub it over a damp cloth, or pass it through flour; lay it flat on the block, and cu off the superfluous dough; take the biscuits ou’ and place them on tins slightly buttered, so as not to touch each other; wash them over lightly with milk, and pake them in a very hot oven. This mixture is the best for persons who aré not very expert in cutting them. When made according to the first recipe, the dough is apt to get tough if worked or moulded too much—an error which inexperienced persons are very liable to com- mit. Rout Cakes.—No. 1. Beat half a pound of butter to cream, add half a pound of ROU '( 774) ROY powdered sugar, one pound of flour, and half a pound of picked and dried currants. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, and make them into a stiff paste with three eggs beaten up with a glassful of brandy and a table-spoonful of rose or orange-flower water. Sprinkle some mixed flour and powdered sugar over a baking- tin, drop the preparation upon it in small knobs, and bake these in a quick oven. No. 2. Beat four ounces of butter to cream, and add four ounces of ‘sugar, six ounces of dried flour, the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, and a flavouring of grated lemon, pounded almonds, and orange- flower or rese water. Beat the mixture briskly for a few minutes, and pour it into a shallow mould lined with buttered paper. Bake in a well-heated oven. Let it get cold, then cut it with avery sharp knife into small fancy shapes of any kind, and moisten these with white of egg beaten up with powdered white sugar. Crisp them before the fire, and when the icing is set put them in a cool dry place till wanted. Rout Cakes, Almond (Read’s recipe).— Take one pound of sweet almonds and one pound of loaf sugar; beat your almonds and sugar quite fine, and make it into « moderate: stiff paste with the yolk of egg.(someé use one egg and the rest yolk). Make them into any shape your fancy may dictate. Use finely-powdered loaf sugar to dust your board.or blocks. In making them, place them on clean tins that are slightly buttered, so as not to touch, or laya sheet of whitey-brown paper on the tin to put. them on. Let them remain in a warm place all night, or a day and a night, before they are baked. Put them in a rather brisk oven; when lightly coloured over, they are done. Ornament them with nonpareils, candied peel, icing, &c., to fancy; make a mucilage of gum arabic, and lay it, with a small brush, over the parts where you wish the nonpareils to adhere; this is done after ‘they are. baked. If you wish to cut your paste, out of blocks, put it in a stewpan over,the fire; keep stirring it with a spoon or spaddle; stir it well to the bottom. When you find the paste does: not stick to the sides of the pan, and comes alto- gether, it isdone. Let it get cold before you cut if out. When the cakes are made in this way the impressions show much better. Roux.—Roux is simply a mixture of flour and butter, which, when baked, is used for thickening soups and gravies. It is frequently spoken of ,as a brown or white thickening ; it should be kept in a covered jar, and will remain good for months. A tea-spoonful is generally sufficient to thicken a pint of gravy. Roux, Brown.—Dissolve half a pound of fresh butter, skim it well, let it stand for a minute, and pour it away from the impurities, which will settle to the bottom. Put the clear oily part into a saucepan over a slow fire, and shake into it about seven or eight ounces of fine flour, or as much as will make a thick paste.’ Stir constantly, and heat the pre- paration slowly and equally until it is very thick and of a bright brown colour.. Put it into a jar, and stir a spoonful into soup or as it is needed. A tea-spoonful will thicken half a pint of gravy. Roux may be mixed with hot or cold stock. If cold, stir it over the fire till it boils; if hot, moisten’ the roux gradually with the stock, and off the fire to keep it from lumping: : Rox, Brown, or Thickening (é£e ‘Gravy, Brown Roux for Thickening). © Roux, Brown, for Immediate Use. —Put an ounce of butter into.a saucepan over a slow fire, and when it is dissolved shake into it an ounce and a half of dried flour. Stir with a wooden spoon until it has acquired a light- brown colour; this will take about ten minutes. Remove the roux from the fire for two. minutes to cool, add a pint and a half of stock, stir this till it boils up, then. draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the sauce simmer till it is smooth and of a proper consistency. Roux, White.—Proceed:as above, but be careful to remove the paste from the fire before it has acquired any colour. White roux is used for white sauces. ~ Roux, White (see Gravy, White Roux for Thickening), De 3 . Rowan.—The fruit of the rowan-tree or mountain-ash, when the bitter has been ex- tracted by soaking it in water, may be made into a preserve which used to, find favour in some parts of Scotland. 5 fue Royal Children’s Puddings,—Slice a penny loaf, and pour upon it a pint and.a half of boiling milk. Let it stand till soft, then beat it lightly with a fork, and add a heaped table-spoonful of moist sugar, a little grated * nutmeg or any other flavouring, and four well- beaten eggs. Half fill some small buttered tea-cups with the mixture,'and bake the pud- dings in a well-heated oven. If liked, a slice of butter may be added, but its absence will render the puddings more digestible.’ Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. Suf- ficient for five or six persons.| =” Royal Fritters.—Put a pint of new milk into a saucepan over the fire, and as it rises in the pan stir into it half a pint of light wine. Pour it out, and let it stand a few minutes to cool, skim off the curd, and put it into a basin. Beat it well with two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little grated lemon-rind or any other flavour- ing, three well-whisked.eggs, and as much flour as will make a stiff batter. Ery the fritters in the usual way. Drain them well, and serve on a hot dish. Send cut lemons to table with the fritters. Royal Pastry.—Take four ounces-of sweet almonds ground or finely pounded, with three or four bitter ones, mix them with a table- spoonful of powdered sugar, and, add-as much white of egg as will make a smooth paste. Mix an ounce of finely-sifted sugar with half a pound. of flour, . Rub four ounces of fresh butter into this, and make it into pasts by stirring into it the white of an egg ‘beaten up with a little cold water. Roll this pastry out, spread the almond paste upon it, and stamp the two together into fancy shapes of any size. ROY ( 775 ) RUF Brush over with white of egg, and. sprinkle chopped almonds thickly cver the cakes. Shake a little sugar on‘the top of this. Put the cakes.on a buttered baking-sheet, and bake in a moderately-heated oven. When done, . the coating of almonds should. be of a.light- fawn colour. Remove the cakes carefully from the baking-sheet, and pile them in a pyramid upon a napkin. If liked, they can be. orna- mented with bright-coloured jelly of any kind. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per pound. ‘ Royal Punch (to be served hot)—Put a quarter of a pound of doubly-refined sugar in large lumps into a bowl, and with it two limes and a thin slice of freshlemon. With a bruiser rub the sugar and the fruit well together, then mix thoroughly with two glassfuls of calf’s foot jelly in'a hot state. Take brandy, rum, arrack, and curagoa in equal quantities, and stir them into the preparation. When thoroughly mixed, add a pint of boiling: green tea, and serve hot. The quantity oF spirit must be regulated by taste; half.a pint of each will generally be found sufficient. " _Royal Sauce for Fish.—Beat two ra yolks of eggs with two ounces of fresh butter. Add gradually a tea-spoonful of elder vinegar, a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a tea-spoon- ful of soy, a pinch of cayenne, and a very small quantity of nutmeg. Pour the mixture into an earthen jar; set this in a small saucepan of boiling water, and keep it boiling, stirring briskly all the time until the sauce begins to thicken .and presents a rich smooth appear- ance; be careful that it does not curdle, which it will: quickly do if not taken from the fire as soon as it is smooth and thick. Time, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Royal’ Sauce for Turkeys and Fowls.—Take the breast'of a cold roast fowl, free it from skin, and pound it to paste ina | mortar with a slice of bread which has been soaked in milk and squeezeddry. Addas much white stock as will make the paste smooth and of the consistency of custard, and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and simmer the. sauce over a gentle fire. Let it cool, stir into it the yolks of two eggs which have been beaten up with half a cupful of cream, and stir the sauce again over the fire, but do not allow it to boil after the eggs are added. If liked, this sauce may be flavoured with five or six blanched and pounded almonds. Time altogether, about one hour. ' Probable cost, 10d., exclusive of the cold chicken. Sufficient for six or seven per- sons. na -Royans.—These are fish of the sardine family. They’ are not unlike sardines, but are smaller, more delicate in taste, and less, aily. They should be very fresh. Royans, Broiled (a Bordeaux. reeipe).— Take the fish, wipe them with a cloth, squeeze firmly the tip of- the tail. Sprinkle salt over them, and place them on a gridiron to broil - over a ‘brisk fire. As soon as the undermost side begins to whiten, tum the royans, and: two minutes after send them to table. Fresh butter. should be served separately. stiff, pile upon it a little whipped cream, or, if Ruby under Snow.—Wash a quarter of a pint of tapioca, and let it soak for three or four hours in three-quarters of a‘pint of water, and, with it the thin rind and strained juice of halfa lemon. Take out ‘the rind, and simmer the tapioca till it is clear, then mix with’ it six table-spoonfuls of red-currant jelly. Let it simmer three or four minutes longer, and pour it into a large dish. Whenit is quite cold and preferred, the whites of ‘two eggs beaten till firm, and sweetened and flavoured with lemon- vind. This is a pretty and wholesome dish for a juvenile party. It should be made the day before it is wanted. If the whites of eggs are ‘used they should be laid on at the last moment. Ruffs and Reeves.—These little birds, of which the ruff is the male and the reeve is the’ female, take their name from the long feathers which stand round the neck of the male bird, in appearance slightly resembling the ruffs worn by ladies. Ruffs are birds of passage, and are caught in traps, 4nd when fattened on’ meal and milk are esteemed a great delicacy. They should not be drawn, and should be trussed ‘like woodcook. To prepare them, run a small skewer through the‘thighs and pinions, ‘lay over the bodies of the birds a slice of fat bacon and a vine-leaf, run them on a lark-spit, and put them down before a clear fire. Baste well with butter, and puta slice of toast in the tin under the birds to receive the drippings from the trail. When done enough, dish them on the same. toast with a little brown gravy under them, and more in‘a tureen. Garnish the dish with watercresses, and send bread sauce to table. Time to roast the birds, ten to fifteen minutes. . Probable cost uncertain, ruffs being seldom offered for sale. Ruff, Fattening of the.— The ruff is taken for the table in spring, but young birds taken in autumn are. much to be preferred. They are often fattened after being taken, and are fed on bread and milk, with brutsed hemp- seed. After being fattened they are sent to market. They feed. readily when quite newly caught, and fight desperately for their food, unless supplied in separate dishes, which, is therefore the regular practice of the feeders, who find it also advantageous. to keep them in darkened apartments. ‘The ruff is gradually ‘becoming..scarcer in England, owing to the ‘destruction of its favourite haunts, the fens, by drainage.” - Ruff or Pope.—This fish spawns in April, ‘and is in season all the year. Its excellence as a fish-for the table excited the enthusiasm of Dr. Kitchiner. The ruff is thus alluded to in Izaak Walton’s famous “ Complete Angler ”:—‘“ There is also another fish called a pope, and by. some a ruff, a fish that. is.not known -to .be. in some xivers. He is much like the perch for his shape, and taken to be better than the perch, but wil} not grow to be ‘bigger, than « gudgeon ; he is an excellent fish; no fish that swims is. of a pleasanter taste,.and he, is, also excellent, to enter a young angler, for he, is a greedy-biter, and they will usually lie; abundance of them together, in one reserved place where the water is deep and runs quietly; and an easy angler, RUG ( 776 ) RUM if he has found where they lie, may catch forty or fifty, or sometimes twice as many, at a standing.” Ruglen Cream.—This is another name sometimes given to the old-fashioned prepara- tion named Corstorphine, the recipe for making which is given in another portion of this book. It is an open question whether the cream was originally made in Corstorphine, near Edin- burgh, or in the borough of Rutherglen (whence Ruglen), in Lanarkshire. Rum.—tThis well-known and much esteemed spirituous liquor is imported. into this country from the West Indies, of which it is one of the staple products. It is obtained by means of fermentation and distillation from molasses, the refuse of the cane-juice, and portions of the cane, after the sugar has been extracted. The flavour and taste peculiar to rum are derived from the essential oils carried over in distil- lation. When the distillation has been care- lessly performed, the spirit contains so large a quantity of the grosser and less volatile part of ‘the oil as to be unfit for use till it has attained a considerable age. When it is well rectified it mellows much sooner. Rum of a brownish transparent colour, smooth oily taste, strong body and consistence, good age, and well kept, is the best. That which is clear and limpid, and has a hot pungent taste, is either too new or mixed with other spirits. Jamaica rum is the first in point of quality; the Leeward Island rum, as it is called, being always inferior to it in flavour, strength, and value. The price of the latter is usually twenty per cent. below that of the former. We import almost all our rum in puncheons containing from eighty-four to ninety gallons each. It is customary, in some of the West India islands, to put spiced pine-apples in puncheons of rum; this gives the spirit the flavour of the fruit; and hence the designation pine-apple rum. Rum is also produced in and imported from the Mauritius and the East Indies. But that of the latter is more nearly allied to arrack than to genuine rum. Rum is said to be much adulterated by the retail dealers in England, sometimes with corn spirit; but if done with tholasses spirit, the tastes of both are so nearly allied that the cheat is not easily discovered. Rum often has a deep red colour, which is acquired from molasses or caramel added for the purpose, and not from the wood of the casks, as is commonly supposed. Unlike other spirits, rum tends to cause perspiration. It is greatly improved by age, and when very old is often highly prized. At a sale in Carlisle in 1865, rum known to be a hundred hla years old sold for three guineas a ottle. Rum-and-Milk.—Rum-and-milk, the first thing in the morning or else twice a day, is strongly recommended as of the greatest service in cases of consumption. It is often almost as efficacious as cod-liver oil. It may be taken with bread-and-butter, as a meal, at breakfast and tea, if these times are preferred by the invalid. The usual quantities at each period are a tumblerful of rich milk, a table-spoonful ‘of old rum, and a little sugar. Rum Blancmange.— Rub the yellow rind of two fresh lemons upon eight good-sized lumps of sugar. Soak an ounce of gelatine in a cupful of milk, and when it is swollen pour upon it a pint of boiling milk or cream, or half milk and half cream. Stir it until the gelatine is dissolved, then add the lemon-flavoured sugar and the well-beaten yolks of five or more eggs mixed with an additional half. pint of milk or cream. Stir the blancmange over the fire till it is quite hot, let it cool a little, then put with it four table-spoonfuls of rum, and a pinch of saffron dissolved in a table-spoonful of water, and continue stirring till it is almost cold. Pour it into a damp mould, and put it in a cool place till stiff. Squeeze the strained juice of a lemon over it before sending it to table. Time to prepare, about one hour. Probable cost, if made with milk, 1s. 8d., exclusive of the rum. Sufficient for a quart mould. Rum Cake.—Take the yolks of twelve eggs, beat them up, and add three-quarters of a pint of cream, the same quantity of rum, and sugar to taste; add also the grated peel of a lemon. Butter a form, pour the mixture in, and bake it till it is dry at the top; the cake may be iced or only strewn with sifted sugar, and ornamented with preserved cherries, &c., or whipped cream may be laid on the top. Rum Ice.—Rub the rind of a large fresh lemon upon three or four lumps of sugar till all the yellow part is taken off, and add as much sugar as will make up the weight to three- quarters of a pound. Put this into a saucepan with a pint of cold water and a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Stir the syrup over the fire, and when the sugar is dissolved, add gradually the whites of three eggs beaten till firm, Pour the preparation out before it begins to simmer, let it cool, add a quarter of a pint of old Jamaica rum, freeze in the usual way, and serve in glasses. Rum Jelly.—Boil a pound of sugar to a clear syrup. Mix with this two ounces of clarified isinglass or gelatine, and add the juice of a lemon and a wine-glassful of fine old Jamaica rum. Pour the jelly into a damp mould, set it in ice or in a cool place till it is stiff, then turn it out, and serve. Rum Omelette.—Beat three eggs in a bowl, and add a very small pinch of salt, a tea-spoonful of finely-powdered sugar, a slice of butter, and w table-spoonful of rum. Fry the omelette in the usual way. Lay it on a hot dish, and pour round it half 9 tumblerful of rum which has been warmed in a saucepan. Set light to this, and take the omelette to table with the flame rising round it. Sufficient for one or two persons. Rum Pudding.—Grate three ounces of stale bread-crumbs, and pour over them as much rum as will moisten then® When they are well soaked, beat them up with six ounces of sugar, a little grated nutmeg, and first the yolks, and afterwards the well-whisked whites, of four eggs. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould, and let it steam until done enough. Turn it upon a hot dish, pour half a tumblerful of rum over it, set light to this, and serve RUM (17) RUM immediately. Time to steam the pudding, one hour. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the rum. Sufficient for three persons. Rum Shrub.—This is a liqueur of which rum forms the alcoholic base; the other mate- rials are sugar, lime’ or lemon-juice, and the rind of these fruits added to give flavour. There are many recipes for the manufacture of rum shrub, almost every maker having his own, which he holds to be the best ever invented. Rum Shrub, To Make.—To give one method of making rum shrub :—Pour a pint of cold water over the rinds of two or three Seville oranges, and let them infuse for a day or two. Strain the liqueur, and boil it with two pounds of loaf sugar to syrup. Add a pint of strained Seville orange-juice and three pints of Jamaica tum. Filter the preparation, and bottle for use. Time, three days. Rumford, Count,on Hasty-pudding. —In regard to the most advantageous method of using Indian corn as food, I would strongly recommend, particularly when it is employed for feeding the poor, a dish made of it that is in the highest estimation throughout America, and which is really very good and very nourish- ing: This is called hasty-pudding, and it is made in the following manner :—A quantity of water, proportioned to the quantity of hasty- pudding intended to be made, is put over the fire in an open iron pot or kettle, and, a proper quantity of salt for seasoning the pudding being previously dissolved in the water, Indian meal is stirred into it by little and little, with a wooden spoon with a long handle, while the water goes on to be heated and made to boil; great care being taken to put in the meal by very small quantities, and by sifting it slowly through the fingers of the left hand, and stirring the water about very briskly at the same time with the wooden spoon with the right hand to mix the meal with the water in such a manner as to prevent lumps being formed. The megl should ‘be added so slowly that, when the water is brought to boil, the mass should not be thicker than water-gruel, and half an hour more at least should be employed to add the additional quantity. of meal necessary for bringing the pudding to be of the proper consistence, during which time it should be stirred about continually and kept boiling. The method of determining when the pudding has acquired the proper con- sistency is this:—The wooden spoon used for stirring it being placed in the middle of the kettle, if it falls down more meal may be added, but if the pudding is sufficiently thick and ad- hesive to support it in a vertical position, it is declared to be proof, and no more meal is added. If the boiling, instead of being continued only half an hour, be prolonged to three-quarters of an hour or an hour, the pudding will be con- siderably improved by the prolongation. The hasty-pudding, when done, may be eaten in various ways. It may be put, while hot, by spoonfuls into a bowl of milk, and eaten with the milk with a spoon in lieu of bread; and used in this way it is remarkably palatable. It may likewise be eaten, while hot, with a sauce composed of butter and brown sugar, or butter and molasses, with or without a few drops of vinegar; and however people who have not been accustomed to this American cookery may be prejudiced against it, they will find upon trial that it makes a most excellent dish, and one which never fails to be much liked by those who are accustomed toit. The universal fond- ness of Americans for it proves that it must have some merit; for, in a country which pro- duces all the delicacies of the table in the greatest abundance, it is not to be supposed that a whole nation should haveva taste so depraved as to give a decided preference to any particular species of food which has not some- thing to recommend it. . The manner in which hasty-pudding is eaten with butter and sugar, or butter and molasses, in America, is as follows :—The hasty-pudding being spread out equally upon a plate while hot, an excavation is made in the middle of it witha spoon, into which excavation a piece of butter as large as a nutmeg is put, and upon it a spoon- ful of brown sugar, or, more commonly, of molasses. The butter, being soon melted by the heat of the pudding, mixes with the sugar or molasses, and forms a sauce, which, being confined to the excavation made for it, occupies the middle of the plate. The pudding is then eaten with a spoon, each spoonful of it being dipped into the sauce before it is carried to the mouth, care being had in taking it up to begin at the outside or near the rim of the plate, and to approach the centre by gradual advances, in order not to demolish too soon the excavation which forms the reservoir for the sauce.—“‘An Essay on Food,” by Count Rumford. Rumford’s Plain Indian Pudding.— “This pudding,” says Count Rumford in his “Essay on Food,’ ‘‘which was allowed by competent judges who tasted it to be as good as they had ever eaten, was composed and prepared in the following manner:—Three pounds of Indian meal (from which the bran had been separated by sifting it.in a common hair sieve) were put into a large bowl, and five pints of boiling water were put to it, and the whole well stirred together; three-quarters of a pound of molasses and one ounce of salt were then added to it, and these being well mixed, by stirring them with the other ingredients, the pudding was poured into a fit bag, and the bag being tied up (an empty space being left in the bag in tying it, equal to about one-sixth of its contents, for giving room to the pudding to swell), this pudding was put into a kettle of boiling water, and was boiled six hours without intermission ; the loss of water in the kettle by evaporation during this time being frequently replaced with boiling water from another kettle. The pud- ding, upon being taken out of the bag, weighed ten pounds and one ounce; and it was found to be perfectly done, not having the smallest remains of that raw taste so disagreeable to all palates, and particularly to those who are not used to it, which always predominates in dishes prepated of Indian meal when they are not sufficiently cooked.” Rumfustian.— Whisk up the yolks of six eggs until they are well frothed, and put them into a quart of strong beer, to which is added a pint of gin; boil up a bottle of sherry in a RUM ( 778 ) RUM saucepan with « stick of cinnamon or nutmeg grated, a dozen large lumps of sugar, and the rind of a lemon peeled thin. When the wine boils, pour it over the aleand gin. Drink hot. Rump Steak.—Rump steak is at its best from September to March, and’ should be cut from meat that has been hung three or four ‘days to make it tender; though it should not be cut from the rump until itis required. It is a. prime part of the meat, and when good is superior to any other in tenderness and delicacy of favour.. French cooks almost always prefer steaks from the fillet or inside of the sirloin, but many good judges consider these’ steaks are insipid and flavourless' compared with good rump steak. Rump steak may be cooked in several different ways, the recipes for which will be found under “ Beef.” As it always fetches a high price, other steak, such as buttock or chuck steak, may be advantageously: used for stewing, or for pies, and if carefully cut will give entire satisfaction. It is worth knowin that many butchers sell the first cut of the rump for 2d. or 3d. less per pound than the other portions, and if this is washed quickly, and dried, it is quite as goof as the rest. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. to’ 1s. 6d. per pound. Rump Steak, Baked, with Onions. —Take about two pounds of steak, and fry it in hot fat till it is lightly and equally browned. ‘Take it up, put it in an earthenware dish which has a closely-fitting . lid, and pour oyer it a pint of, stock made from bones. Add two moderate-sized onions which have been boiled till tender, two table-spoonfuls of Harvey’s Sauce or: walnut ketchup, two cloves,. and a little salt and cayenne. Cover the ‘dish, and bake the steak gently till done enough. Take it up, lay round it an onion, sliced, divided into rings, and fried; and strain over it the gravy in the baking-dish. Serve very hot. -Time to bake, two hours: Probable cost, about 3s. 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. ' Rum Rump). . Rump Steak, Broiled, Accompani- ments to.— Many epicures prefer broiled steak plain, that is, dredged lightly with pepper before it is broiled, and served on a hot dish with fresh butter under and over it. As a variety to flavour it, half a lemon may be squeezed over the steak, and a table- spoonful.of Harvey’s Sauce poured on it, or a little. maitre d’hétel or anchovy butter may be rubbed over it as soon as it is done, or fried onion or fried potatees may be used to garnish the dish, or oyster, mushroom, tomato, or onion sauce may be served in a tureen, or stewed cucumbers may be sent to table separately. ; Rump Steak, Broiled, with Onion Gravy.—Put two Spanish onions, sliced, into a saucepan with half a table-spoonful of stock or water. Let them stew gently until the water has boiled away and they are a little coloured, then pour over them a pint of stock and a seasoning of pepper and salt, and simmer till tender. Lift them out of the Steak, Broiled (see Beef Steak, well-hung tender | gravy, mince finely, then return them’ to the gravy. . Add a table-spoonful of mushroom- ketchup, and boil the gravy for five minutes. Put it.on a hot-dish, lay a broiled steak upon it (see Beef Steak, Rump), and serve hot, ‘Time to make the grayy, about half an hour. Rump Steak, Neapolitan (excellent).— Take two pounds of tender rump steak an:inch and a half'thick. Fry it in hot fat until it is brightly and equally browned, take it up, and in the same fat fry two. thinly-sliced onions. Put the steak into an earthen dish, lay ‘the onion upon it, pour over it as much broth as will barely cover it, and add two pickled gherkins' finely minced, two sticks of celery, four cloves, a little salt and cayenne, and a glassful of port or claret. Cover the:-pan closely, and put it in a moderately-heated oven till the steak is half cooked, then add a turnip and. a.carrot cut in halves. When these are ‘sufficiently cooked, lift out the steak, lay it & | on a hot dish, strain the gravy over it, cut the carrot and turnip into dice, and sprinkle them upon it. Serve immediately. Time to’ bake the steak, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 3s. 8d., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rump Steak, Piquant Sauce for.— Put a wine-glassful of aleintoa small saucepan, with, a wine-glassful of claret, a wine-glassful, of ketchup or Harvey’s Sauce, a tea-spoonful of -garlic vinegar, and an ounce of fresh butter. Stir the mixture over the fire till it is tho- roughly heated, and serve poured hot upon the steak. ‘Time, five or stx minutes. a Rump Steak Pudding.—Cut about two pounds of tender rump steak into pieces an inch and a half square, and season these with a ‘dessert-spoonful of salt and a’ tea- spoo: of pepper. Line a shallow, thick- rimmed pudding-basin, well buttered, with good suet crust half an inch thick, and leave about an inch of pastry ever the edge. Lay in the steak, and add ‘a quarter of a pint of stock, gravy, or water. ‘Cover the nicat with a circular piece of pastry, moisten the edge of the pastry that was leftover, press it closely, and tie the basin rather loosely in a cloth which has been wrung’ out of boiling water and floured. Plunge the pudding into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Hither serve it in the basin, round which a napkin has been tied, or turn it carefully upon a hot dish, ‘after ‘allowing it to stand five minutes. If liked, a circular piece of pastry may be cut out of the top of the pudding and a slice of butter put into it to enrich the gravy. This is padaing will be very much im- proved if half a pound of ox kidney cut up small, a dozen and a half of oysters, and six or eight larks, are ‘put into it with the beef. Time to boil, four to five hours. Probable cost, when made with steak only, 3s.10d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tae Rump Steak, Savoury.—Cut the rump steak three-quarters of an inch thick, trim it neatly, and brush it over with oil. Broil as already directed in the recipe Beef Steak, Rump. Have ready two finely-minced shallots and .the RUM (:779 ) RUS strained juice of a lemon. Lay the steak on the dish, pour the juice over, and sprinkle the minced shallot upon it. Serve very hot, with fried potatoes round the dish. Rump Steak, Stewed.—No. 1. Take a slice of tender rump steak an inch and a half thick. Fry this in hot fat till it is equally and lightly browned.’ “Put it into a saucepan, pour over it as much stock or water‘as will cover it, and add dn’ onion stuck with six cloves, and a little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and 'lét its contents stew as gently as possible for three hours. Take it up, strain. the gravy, thicken with flour or roux, and add a spoonful of walnut’ or mushroom ketch- up, if necessary. Serve on a hot dish, and sprinkle over it some pickled cucumber or pickled gherkins finely minced. No. 2. Take a slice of tender‘rump steak three-quarters of an inch thick. Fry this in’ butter ‘or hot fat till it is lightly browned, and pour over it as much good gravy or stock as will barely cover it. Add a‘ tea-spoonful of freshly-made mus- tard, a little pepper and salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Let the sauce boil up quickly, then put the pan at the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer as gently as possible for one hour or more. Fry in hot fat till: lightly browned twelve button mushrooms, twelve small onions, a carrot, a turnip, and two or three sticks of celery, all cut small. Put these into the saucepan, and let all continue, simmer- ing till the vegetables are tender.’ Thicken the gravy with a spoonful of brown ‘thickening ; when it is smooth add a:table-spoonful of Wor- cester sauce, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce, the strained juice of a lemon, anda glassful of port or claret. Servevery hot. Probable cost, rump steak, 1s. 4d. to 1g. ‘6d. per pound. ~ Rump Steak, Stewed, with Onions. —Take a pound of tender rump steak, and dredge pepper and.a little salt over it. Butter a saucepan which has a tightly-fitting lid very thickly ;,or, if preferred, rub it over with good beef dripping: Lay the steak, in it, add two large Spanish onions thinly sliced, and an ounce of ‘butter or dripping. Cover the saucepan closely, and put it by the side of the fire to steam as gently as possible for two hours and a half. Take it up, lay the steak upon a dish, put the onions upon it, and serve immediately. It will be found that sufficient moisture has exuded from the onions to make gravy, although no liquor was put into the pan. If tomatoes are used instead of onions, the dripping will not be needed. Time, two and a half hours. Rump Steak, Stewed, with Oysters. —Take a slice of rump steak three quarters, of an inch thick, weighing about 2} pounds. Rub this well on both sides with a savoury mixture made of a minced onion, three salt-spoonfuls of salt, as much summer savoury .as will lie on a sixpence, and fry it in hot- fat till lightly browned. Lay it in a saucepan with three- quarters of a pint of water, and add a clove, two ‘allspide, a: blade of mace, and the liquor from two dozen! oysters. : Cover the saucepan |' closely, and let the steak ‘simmer gently till it ig tender. Take out the steak, strain the gravy, and thicken with a little brown thickening or flour and butter. Let it boil till smiooth. Pat back:the steak dnd the oysters bearded, let them simmer for five minutes, and then serve. They must on.no account boil. When expense is a consideration, tinned oysters may be used for this dish instead of fresh ones. Time, one and a half to two hours: . Probable cost, rump steak, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per pound: Sufficient for five or six persons. Rump Steak, Stewed, with Piquant Sauce.—tTake a pound and a half of tender steak an inch thick, and fry this in hot fat till it is lightly and equally browned. ‘Take it up, put if into a saucepan which has been twice rubbed across with :garlic, and pour over it a quarter of a pint of, good, gravy. Add the strained juice of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of grated horseradish, a tea-spoonful of finely minced shallot, a tea-spoonful of chopped pars- ley, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, half a tea- spoonful of mixed mustard, and a. little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents stew gently for an hour. Peel and mince finely two small mushrooms, anda truffle, if it can be had. If not, use four mushrooms. Simmer them quickly in two table-spoonfuls of vinegar for ten minutes. Add them to the steak, simmer all gently together for half an hour longer, and serve. Time, nearly two hours. Probable cost, rump steak, 1s. 4d. to-1s.'6d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Rump Steak, Stuffed.—Take two pounds of well-hung steak cut in one piece, and three-quarters of an inch thick. Lay it ona table, and spread upon it a quarter of a pint of good veal stuffing. Roll it round, and tieit with twine, fastening the ends securely.;, Dissolve a table-spoonful of bacon fat in a saucepan, put in the rolled steak, and; turn it about till it is equally browned all over. Pour uponit three- quarters of a pint of stock of water, cover the saucepan closely, and let the steak stew gently until tender. Lay the meat in a hot dish, and remove the twine. Thicken the gravy, pour it. over the beef, and serve very hot. Time to stew the steak, two hours. Probable cost, rump steak, 1s. 4d. to 1s. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. bo : Rump Steaks, Gravy for.—Pour the fat out of the pan, dredge the pan with flour, let it brown a little, and then put into it one ounce of butter; rub'and mix the butter and flour well together in the pan, and when it is a little brown reduce it. to the thickness of eteam, by mixing -gradually with it a little boiling water, a table-spoonful of ketchup, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and salt to taste ; keep stirring it well till the sauce boils fora minute or two, and then pour it over the steaks through a sieve. The-steaks may be garnished with a few sprigs of parsley, or with scraped horseradish ; they are mostly, served up with- out any other sauce than the above, but some families eat them. with, oyster sauce or mush- room, sauce. ae a Rush-Nut (the root of the cyprus escu- lentus).—THis is, a favourite article of diet. in somé parts of Italy. Tt is not only ‘a substi- tute for the chestnut, but more delicately and RUS ( 780 ) RUS pleasantly tasted than that nut. Some British travellers have refused it, believing it to be deleterious; but we can assure them that there is no necessity for starving when a dish of rush- nut can be procured, and that it is not only safe, but, when properly prepared, an agreeable article of diet. It might be introduced into Britain with little trouble. Rusk Cake.—Crush a quarter of a pound of rusks to powder, and pass them through a colander. Beat the yolks of seven eggs till light, and add six ounces of powdered white sugar, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, three cloves powdered, and three ounces of blanched and pounded almonds. Beat the ingredients briskly together for twenty minutes. Add the powdered rusks, a table-spoonful of strained Temon-juice, and, lastly, the whites of all the eges whisked to a firm froth. Beat the mix- ture thoroughly, put it into a buttered mould, and bake immediately. In order to ascertain whether or not the cake is done enough, try it with a skewer in the ordinary way, but do not do this until the cake looks firm, as it will be all the nicer if it is not moved about during the baking. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Rusk Pudding.—Take three ounces of thin rusks. Spread a little jam between every two, and press them closely together. Arrange them neatly in a buttered mould, and pour over them a custard made with a pint of milk {or half milk and half cream), the yolks of four eggs, and a little sugar and flavouring. Let | the rusks soak for an hour, then steam the udding, and when done enough serve on a bot dish with wine or arrowroot sauce poured round it. Time to steam the pudding, about two hours. Probable cost, if made with milk, 1s.2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rusk Pudding (another way).—Sweeten a pint of milk, and flavour it with lemon- rind or cinnamon. Arrange three or four tusks in a buttered basin, and pour the milk over them; let them soak for half an hour. Whisk two eggs, and beat them up with the rusks; then add a pinch of salt and a slice of fresh butter. Lay a buttered paper over the basin, which must be quite full, tie it in a floured cloth, and plunge it into fast-boiling water. Boil it quickly until done enough. Move it about two or three times during the first half of boiling. When done enough, turn it upon a hot dish, and serve with sweet sauce or wine sauce. If liked, candied peel, stoned raisins, or washed currants may be mixed with the pudding. Time to boil, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Rusks.—No. 1. Put two pounds of flour into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt and six ounces of powdered sugar (if the rusks are intended for cheese the sugar should be omitted). Dissolve four ounces of butter in half a pint of hot milk. Add six well-beaten eggs, and two table-spoonfuls of yeast, and with this liquor work the flour into a smooth ‘dough. Cover with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. When light knead it, and divide into small cakes the size of an orange. Lay these closely together in a buttered pan, and bake in a brisk oven. When done enough, take them out, break them in halves, and place them again in the oven to get crisp on the other side. When cold keep them closely packed in tin canisters. Time to bake, altogether about half an hour. No. 2. Warm half a pint of milk, and stir into it two table- spoonfuls of good yeast. Put a pound of flour into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt and three table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Make a hollow in the flour, but not so deep as to lay bare the bottom of the bowl, and stir in the yeast and milk to make a thin batter. Shred a quarter of a pound of butter into the flour, cover the bowl, and leave it in » warm place until the batter rises in bubbles. Work all lightly together until the dough no longer sticks to the hand, then let it rise again until the surface cracks. Divide the dough into rolls six inches long and two broad, lay these side by side on a buttered tin, and set them before the fire for a few minutes to rise. Bake in a quick oven. When done enough, tear them into halves, and put them again into the oven till they are crisp. A table-spoonful of aniseed may be worked into the rusks, if liked, and they will then be good for infants’ food. No. 3. Stir two ounces of butter in half a pint of warm milk until dissolved, add a table-spoonful of yeast and two well-beaten eggs. Put a pound of flour into a bowl, and mix with it a heaped table-spoonful of pow- dered sugar. Make a hole in the centre, pour in the eggs and milk, and beat in as much flour from the side as will make a thin batter. Sprinkle a little flour over this, cover the bowl with a cloth, and leave the preparation to rise until the bubbles show themselves through the flour ; this will be in about an hour. Knead the whole into a firm dough, divide it into small cakes a little larger than an egg, and let these rise on the baking-tins for another hour. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven, and when cool put them in a warm screen to dry for half an hour. Store in tins in a dry place. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Rusks (another way).—Take four eggs, half a pint each of new milk and warm water, quarter of a pound'of melted-butter, quarter of a pound of sugar, and three table-spoonfuls of yeast. Beat these ingredients together with as much flour, added gradually, as will make a very light paste. Let it rise for half an hour before the fire, then add a little more flour, and form into small cakes or loaves five or six inches wide; flatten the cakes, bake them moderately, and when cold cut them into slices the size of rusks, and put them into the oven to brown a little. This is a nice oer to eat hot, or, with carraways, to eat cold. Rusks (another way).—Take four pounds of flour, six ounces of butter, four ounces of loaf sugar, and one quart of milk. Ferment and make into a dough as for buns, weigh it in pieces of one pound, one pound and a half, or two pounds each, and make it into long even rolls five or six inches in circumference; let these be quite straight and square at the ends, place them on buttered tins, so that they may RUS ( 781 ), RUS not touch each other, flatten them a little with your hand, and prove them; when they are near proof, prick them several times along the top with a fork or small piece of wire, which will prevent the top crust or rind coming off ; bake them in a moderate oven. When they are a day or two old cut them .crossway into thin slices with a sharp knife, lay them on clean tins close to each other, and put them in a brisk oven; when they are nicely coloured take them out, turn them on the other side, put them in again, and when coloured they are done. Dr. Franklin remarks, in his maritime observations, that this is the true original biscuit, so prepared to keep for sea, being twice baked, as its name imports. Rusks, Bread, for Breakfast.—Take some hot rolls, tear them in halves, and put them in a moderate oven to crisp and brown. Serve with cocoa. Rusks made with Sour Cream.—Rub five ounces of butter into a -pound of flour till it is as fine as oatmeal. Add a pinch of salt, four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and two ounces of candied peel finely shred, Work this into « smooth lithe dough with two well. beaten eggs and a little more than half a pint of thick sour cream. At the last moment before baking the cakes add half a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda mixed with a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar and a tea-spoonful of flour. Divide the dough into two or threé cakes, and bake in a moderate oven. When it is done enough, take it out of the oven, tear it in halves, and put it back again to crisp. Of course the cream must not be in the least putrid when it‘is used. Time to bake, forty to fifty minutes. Rusks, Plain.—Cut loaves of bread into slices, and bake them in a slow oven to the proper colour. Rusks, Sweet.—Take a stale Savoy cake, lemon cake, or pound cake, cut it into slices, and divide these into pieces about two inches square. Place these on a baking-tin, and put them into a cool oven to dry. When they are crisp and brown they are done enough. Store in a tin box in a dry place. Rusks, Tea.—Dissolve half a tea-spoonful of saleratus and a tea-spoonful of salt in a spoonful of hot water. Stir in this with a pint of warm milk and half a quarter of a pint of brewer's yeast. Put the liquor into a bowl, and stir into it as much fine flour as will make a soft lithe dough. Knead this thoroughly, cover the bowl with «a cloth, and put it in a warm place to rise. It will be light in a couple of hours. Work into the dough two table-spoonfuls of sugar and a quarter of a pound of butter dissolved, but not hot. Flour the hands thoroughly, and make the dough up into small cakes the size of an orange, lay these side by side ina buttered pan, brush the tops over with milk, and bake ina quick oven. Serve hot. Time to bake, half an hour. / Rusks with Jam.—-Pour a pint of boil- ing milk—sweetened and flavoured—over five or six rusks in a pie-dish. Let them soak for ten minutes, then beat them lightly. with a fork, and spread upon them a layer of good jam. Pour upon this some custard made with a pint of milk, the yolks of three eggs, and a little sugar and flavouring. Leave the preparation till cold, sift powdered sugar over it, or lay upon it the whites of the eggs beaten to'foam, and serve.. Time, three quarters of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Russian Cabbage Soup.—This ancient. Russian national dish—known as schstchi—en- joys an immense reputation. There are many ways of preparing it. The following is one of the best known:—Take six or eight white. cabbages shredded, half a pound of pearl bar- ley, a quarter of a pound of butter, a handful of salt, and two pounds of mutton cut into small pieces, with two quarts of Kvas or broth. The meat, salted for ‘thirty-six hours, is put into a press, cut in small pieces, and not thrown into the pot till the cabbage has boiled. Some artichokes cut into four are added, and when the whole is dished three spoonfuls of thick cream are poured over it. The soup is some- times made with oil instead of butter, and with fish instead of meat, usually during the fasts. Russian Cakes.—Make a batter by whisking together the yolks of five eggs and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. Add gradually three ounces of dried flour, two ounces of blanched and pounded almonds, a drachm of -aniseed, and, lastly, the whites of the eggs beaten toa firm froth. Bake the batter in strong paper. cases nearly a foot long and a quarter of a foot wide and deep. When they are suf-. ficiently baked, let them get cold, then cut them into thin slices, and’ put them again into the oven till they are crisp. Russian Charlotte.—Trim off the ends of eighteen or twenty Savoy biscuits perfectly straight, line the sides of a straight dry mould with them, arid take care to join them perfectly, so that the contents of the charlotte cannot escape, then ornament the bottom of the mould with dried fruit or strips of angelica. Soak a quarter of an ounce of gelatine, and dissolve it in a quarter of a pint of milk. Whilst it is cooling whip half a pint of double cream till it is thick. Mix with it a spoonful of sugar, a few drops of flavouring, and the melted gelatine. Put the mixture into the’ mould, a small quantity at a time, ahd let it re- main in ice until itis firm. When it is wanted, turn it out carefully upon a-glass dish, and serve. If the mould cannot easily be turned out, plunge it into hot water for a moment. Probable cost, 28. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Russian Charlotte (another way).— Take some biscuits 4 la cuillére. These are made the same as sponge biscuits. Instead of being baked in frames or in a form, they are made into thin cakes about two inches wide and four or five long; they are then baked on wafer-paper, the top being glazed with sugar sifted through a tamis. They should be baked in a very moderate oven. Line a form at the sides and bottom with them, placing RUS ( 782.) RUS them so close together that no space remains between; fill the centre with a whipped cream or a fromage; turn the charlotte out into a dish, and send at once to-table,. It should not be kept long unless an ‘ice. : Russian Charlotte with Apples.— Take some biscuits & la cuillére (see the pre- ceding recipe). Linea form with them, placing them as close as possible, so that they may form a complete case. Peel and slice a dozen apples, and stew them in a little butter. “Fill the form with the apples, leaving a space in the centre. Fill this space with a marmalade’of apricots, chéeiries, or quinces. Turn out’the charlotte on a dish, and serve cold. - oe RPh e Russian ‘J elly.— Take the remains of jelly of ny kind, put it in a bowl, and set it in a pan of hot water until dissolved. Put the basin upon ice, and whisk the jelly briskly till it begins to ‘stiffen and form a creamy froth, then pour it af oncé into a mould set in ice. en it is firm turn it out. “When convenient, two or three kinds of jelly appropriately fla- voured can be mixed together. : Russian mode'of Preserving Fruit. —A. method of preserving fruit, in extensive use in Russia, consists in moistening quicklime with water containing a little creosote, so as to cause it to fall into powder: The fruit is packed in a wooden box, the bottom of which is filled in to the depth of an inch with the lime. The ‘stratum is covered with a sheet of paper, and the fruit laid upon this, each piece by it-' self, so that no one touches another. A sheet of paper is placed on the top of this layer of fruit and then asecond layer of lime is sifted in. In this way lime, paper, and fruit alternately till. the box is’ filled. The corners are then filled’ with finely-powdered charéoal. By ‘covering the box ‘with a tightly-fitting top, the fruit can, it.is said, be kept fresh for at least a year. - “Russian Poldny.—Russian polony should be made of hard old Belfast hams, which are easily procured, and from beef,'which is to be prepated in the’ following manner :—Take a small round, or part. of a large one, of ox beef (for the udder of the cow cannot be used here) ; ’ rub'it all over with ‘common salt, and scatter‘ more under and over it; so let it lie four days. Then ‘Wipe! it,'and ‘put it’ ‘into the ‘following’ pickle, in a deep ‘pan :— ' Water that has boiled » 1 gallon Common salt... . . +, 2 Ibs. Saltpetre . - .« . 2 ounces Bay-salt .. , e 2 Ibs. Let “it lie fourteen days: more covered with, pickle. Take it out.and wipe it well; tie, string round it, and hang it to smoke for. twenty days in a powerful smoke, it in a warm dry room three weeks longer. to harden. Take then an equal weight ae ham and beef, and cut off all the hard fat, which put aside. Cut up the meat in ‘small pieces, and leave no skinny or fibrous parts in ‘it. Beat each separately in a mortar until very fine, and work it into a consistence; being completely mixed, add finely-ground black: pepper, and then cut your hard fat up into , turning it” often ; and when taken from the chimney hang small squares the size, of a pea,.and mix these generally and equally throughout the maas. Dissolve gum-dragon so that: it is very thick, and work it amongst the. meat until the paste has become just:soft enough to studf,.the sking, | which must bei the Jargest you dan, get, and: taken from large:‘oxen. iGreat, care must be taken in filling them, so that.'the meat may soon bé united into a :solid. mass,(which can only be effected by foreé} the skins. must then ‘be well tied up, and hung: to dry; they must be-smoked for a fortnight,,.and kept three months ina dry closet. © i) F) tl Russian Salad.—Cut some ¢arrots, tur-' nips, parsnips, and beetroot into strips with a scoop. Add, if liked, other vegetables, such as asparagus, peas, French beans, .herkins, capers, scraped horseradish, &c.-&c.. -Put the vegetables ) in'a salad-dish in' layers, season each layer with mayonnaise or Tartar sauce, and. gradually: di- minish the size ofthe layers, till the.salad comes to a point., Ornament. with a, border of aapic jelly, picked prawns, olives, or gerne, pnd garnish the surface with small balls of caviare. Russian Sauce.—Dissolve a slice of butter in a small saucepan, and add two‘ ounces of lean undressed him cut into dice, four minced shal- lots, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a spoonful of chopped parsley, two table-spoontuls of scraped horseradish, a dessert-spoontul of ‘sugar, a ‘little pépper, salt, and grated nutmeg, a wine-glassful of vinegar, and the same of light' wine. - Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents steam gently for a,quarter of an hour.'-Add ‘half a pint of good white sauce‘and the yolks of four eggs. Stir the sauce ‘over the fire’ till it’ begins to thicken, and’ strain through a ‘sieve for use. The sauce must not boil after the eggs’ are added, and care must be taken‘not to put’ them into it until ‘partially: cooled. Time, about forty minutes to prepare the sauce. : Russian Sauce (another way).—- Take four spoonfuls of grated horseradish ; two 'tea- Spoonfuls of made mustard, a salt-spdonful of, salt, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and as much vine- -gar as ‘will just cover the ingredients. This is ‘a good sauce for all kinds. of cold: meat, and when added to melted butter makes a good fish sauce. eae Apart ee Russian Soup.—Take about two quarts of good brown soup nicely flavoured, and pour this,’ | when ready for ‘sérving ‘into the tureen over three ounces of dressed’ ham finely--shred and some small sausdges already fried ‘and drained thoroughly from fat: The soup may be made as follows :—Chop two Spanish onions, and mix with them the whole heart of a: cabbage’ finely shred. Try the mixture in a little butter till the vegetables are lightly browned, dredge two ounces of flour over them, and moisten the paste with about three pints of good stock. Add: a’ little pepper, salt, ahd grated nutmeg; let the soup boil once, then draw the saucepan to ‘the side, and let its contents simmer for half an hour or more, carefully removing the scum as it rises. Add a glassful of light wine and a spoonful of coarsely-shred tarragon or chervil, and: the soup will be ready for serving. Time, about an hour. Sufficient for six or eight persons. BUS ( 783 ) RYE Russian Tea.—Take a quart of milk, and set it-on the fire. Whenever it boils throw,in a large tea-spoonful of the best tea ; let it boil, some minutes, strain, add sugar to taste, set it: again on. the fire, and when: it boils add a. liaison of eggs. ‘This, is|.. highly-approved remedy for a cold. Russian Zakouski.—* What is in Russia called’ zakouski,” ‘sayg M. Dubois, in his able “Cosmopolitan Cookery,” is‘ nothing but those cold hors @’euvre which the Russians are ac- customed to ‘take before sitting down ‘to dinner. These dishes.are generally composed of sandwiches :(canapés) prepared. with herrings, smoked salmon, anchovies, caviare, eggs boiled hard and chopped. . But: besides these canapés, commonly some soused or pickled fish is served,. or crayfish tails, little tartlets, pickles, ogursis,: smoked breast of goose cut into thin slices. “All these dainties are served. on a little table, where also several kinds of liqueurs and’ little glasses are kept ready; the liqueurs generally being Dantzig brandy, arrack, kiim- mel, and cognac. The zakouskis are partaken of but a few minutes previous to taking dinner, but without sitting down.- In the Petersburg hotels the zakouski table is a fixture.” Ruthven Cake.—Heat three pints of milk, and stir into this, until dissolved, eight ounces of fresh butter. Let the liquor cool, then mix with it a quarter of a stone of flour, six ounces of powdered and sifted loaf sugar, the thin rind of two lemons finely minced, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, a pound of picked and dried’ currants, six well-beaten eggs, and three large spoonfuls of fresh yeast. ‘Knead the mixture thoroughly to a smooth dough. Gover the bow] with a cloth; and set it-in a warm place to rise. It will take about three hours. Put the dough into buttered tins, and bake’these ina well-heated oven. Timd to bake, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. 7d. per cake. Sufficient for two good-Sized cakes. e eo es Rye.—This species of grain is much more hardy’ but incalculably less valuable in every respect than’ wheat. It has been cultivated from time immemorial, and is supposed to be a native of the Caspian Caucasian ‘desert. In Britain it is very little used as an article of food compared with wheat and oats, though in the north of Europe and in Flanders it forms’ a principal article of human subsistence, but generally mixed with wheat, and sonietimes also with barley. oe Pee aes The cultivation of rye does not:extend so far north as that of barley, but it grows in regions too cold for wheat, and on soils. too poor and sandy for any other grain. Its ripening can also be more confidently depended on in cold regions than that of any other .grain. But rye, it should be observed, succeeds best, and is most productive, in a climate where wheat ripens. It:delights in sandy soil. “ i Rye and Indian Meal, Bread of.— ‘The proportions of rye and corn-meal used,” says an American. writer, “maybe varied according to the taste. If the aa propor- tion of rye is used, make the dough stiff; if the largest proportion of corn-meal, make the ‘ dough softer. . The greater the proportion ‘of. corn-meal, the longer the bread requires baking. The best way to mix the dough is to put the corn-meal. into a glazed' earthen pan, sprinkle salt.over it, pour on boiling water, work it till thoroughly wet, and when. about: milk-warm add the rye-flour with the yeast, and as much more warm, but not hot, water as is required. Work the dough until stiff, but not so stiff as flour dough. Put it then into a deep greased pan, put your hand in.warm «water, and pat. down the top, set.it to rise in a warm place by the stove in winter, but in the sun in summer. When it begins to crack on the top, which will be in an hour or an, hour and a half, put in a well-heated oven. To make the bread two- thirds of corn-meal, take four quarts, of sifted ‘corn-meal, sprinkle a table-spoonful of salt over it, and pour over it two quarts of boilin, water, as directed above; when lukewarm adi two quarts of rye-meal,:half 4 pint of lively yeast mixed in a pint of warm water; add more water if necessary. Bake two or three hours. This makes a loaf weighing seven or eight pounds.” : ae ot ass Rye as a Substitute for Coffee.— “ Rye,” says.an old collection of recipes, “ will be found a wholesome and economical substitute | for coffee, It must, first. be well cleaned, and boiled till it becomes soft, care being taken that it does not burst, and then put to dry in the sun or in an oven, and ‘afterwards burnt and ground like coffee. To ‘use it, take as much water as it is wished to have cups of coffee, and boil and: strain it, adding a third of real coffee ; and the whole will resemble pure coffee from the Indies, and not require so much sugar as the common sort.” Rye Batter Cakes.—Mix as much luke- warm milk with’a pint of'rye-meal as will make a thin batter. Beat this well, add a little salt and a quarter of a pint of home-made yeast. | Let the dough rise, then: bake the cakes on a griddle. Or take from the risen dough made for rye bread as much as will make.a small loaf: Work into this a quarter of a pound of good dripping or butter, make the dough into a flat cake an inch thick, and bake'in a.quick oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes or more. Rye Bread.—Late in the evening; pour a quart of warm water into a large bowl, and stir into, this.as much flour as oo a smooth batter... Cover the bowl with, a cloth, set-it in a warm place, and let the sponge rise, In the morning, put into another bowl three pounds and a half of rye-flour. Scoop a-hollow in the centre, pour in the sponge,.add.a spoonful of salt. anda small piece of saleratus dissolved in a spoonful of warm water, and knead the dough thoroughly till it no longer sticks to the bowl and the hands. In kneading it, adda little more warm water if necessary. Cover the bowl, and let.the dough rise for three hours, or till it is light; make it up into loaves, and bake these in a quick oven. Time to bake, three ‘quarters of an hour to one hour, a¢cording’ to the size of the loaves. , Rye Bread (another, way).—“ Rye,” says Mis? Acton, EN her “English Bread Book? RYE ( 784 ) SAC “does not seem to be regarded with much favour in England, as ‘little is grown here, and the imported supplies are very scanty, compared with those of all other grain; yet, from the positive amount of nutriment which it affords, it stands next in value to wheat, and makes excellent bread in combination with wheat-meal or flour. It ferments easily, is considered by many persons as of pecu- liarly agreeable flavour (to others its sweet- ness is sometimes an objection); it keeps well, is wholesome, and economical also. The black bread of Germany and other parts of Europe is composed of rye only ground into coarse meal, and fermented often by means of leaven (or dough left from a previous baking and become slightly sour), which is an un- favourable mode of fabricating it, because rye has a tendency to pass quickly into what is termed the acetous state of fermentation, and requires to be carefully watched and skilfully managed to prevent the bread made of it from acquiring an acid taste. When the flour of rye is mixed with half or two-thirds as much of wheat-flour, the dough may be prepared in the ordinary manner, rather less time in warm weather being allowed for its rising.” Rye-bread in Holland.—In Holland two sorts of rye-bread are eaten, the one hand- made, the other manufactured by machinery. The latter is preferred by the wealthier classes : it is of a dark colour, and has an odour not unlike gingerbread. The working classes, on the other hand, like hand-made rye-bread best, because it is whiter—a popular taste which finds its coun- terpart in this country. There is no real dif- ference in the quality of the rye, but there is in the baking, the hand-made bread being left in the oven for twenty-four hours, while the machine-made is left for twice that time. Rye Drop Cakes.—Mix together a quart of milk, two eggs well beaten, a piece of butter as large as an egg, one tea-spoonful of soda, two tea-spoonfuls of cream of tartar, half a cupful of white sugar, and enough rye-meal to make a thick batter. Bake for half an hour. Rye-meal Mush (an American recipe).— Stir fresh-ground rye gradually into boiling water into which a little salt has been thrown. Let the preparation boil for about an hour. Rye, Nutritive Properties of.—Rye and barley resemble the grain of wheat very much in composition and nutritive quality. They differ from it somewhat in flavour and colour, and do not make so fair and spongy a bread. They are not generally preferred, there- fore, in countries where wheat and other grains thrive and ripen. Two samples of newly-baked wheat and rye bread, made and examined under the same circumstances, were found to consist respectively of— Wheaten bread. Rye bread. Water . ‘ , . 48 48 Gluten . , ; ‘ 53 5 Starch, &c. 461 463 100 100 ._ So that in composition and nutritive quality these two kinds of bread very closely resembled each other, and, except as concerns our taste, it is « matter of indifference whether we live on the one or the other. Rye bread possesses one quality which is in some respects a valuable one: it retains its freshness and moisture for a longer time than wheaten bread, and can be kept for months without becoming hard, dry,. and unpalatable. This arises principally from certain peculiar properties possessed by the variety of gluten which exists in the grain of rye. Rye, Wholesomeness. of.—In those unaccustomed to its use, rye is apt to cause an acescent state of the stomach and diarrhwa,. The grain is liable to a disease called ergot, which depends on a fungus which attacks and alters the character of the grain. LErgotted or spurred rye is poisonous when it is baked into bread. It causes febrile symptoms, great debility, often paralysis, tumours, abscesses, gangrene, and death. Some of the epidemics which have occasionally nearly depopulated the north of Europe have been traced to the use of the spurred rye. Ss Sabotiére.—An apparatus for making ices: it is composed of two principal parts—a pail, which is indented towards the top and covered, and the sabotiére, or inner vessel, slightly conical, which is inserted in the pail, on which it rests by a projecting border or rim; this vessel is closed at the bottom like a cup, and open at the top to admit the creams to be iced. The freezing mix- ture is turned into the pail, and the creams to be iced into the inner vessel; its cover is then fastened by the hook, and the vessel is set into the pail among the freezing liquid; then taking the whole by the handle of the sabotiére, an altefA¥ate motion of rotation is given to it for about a quarter of an hour, when the cream is sufficiently frozen.” Sack.—The term sack is a corruption of “sec,” signifying dry, and was applied in old times to wines made from half-dried grapes. The sack of Shakespeare’s day is supposed to have been what we now sherry: Sack posset was a beverage highly esteemed 300 or 400 years ago, and as some of our readers may like to taste it, we give below a few recipes for its manufacture. Sack Cream.—Beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix with them gradually half a pint of cream and half a pint of lukewarm milk. Add a little sugar, a flavouring of grated lemon- rind, and a glassful of sherry. Stir the cream over the fire till it begins to thicken, and be very careful that it does not curdle. Serve it in custard-glasses, with a little powdered cinnamon sprinkled over the top. Send rata- fias or other sweet biscuits to table with the cream. Time, five or six minutes to beat the cream. Probable cost, exclusive of the sherry, 1s. 4d. Sufficient for five or six glasses. Sack Posset (Sir Walter Raleigh’s recipe). —Boil together half a pint of sherry and half a pint of ale, and add gradually a quart of boiling SAC ( 736 ). SAF cream or milk. Sweeten the mixture well, and flavour with grated nutmeg. Put it into a heated dish, cover it over, and let it stand by the fire two or three hours. recipe :—Break eighteen new-laid eggs into a bowl, and carefully remove the specks. Beat the eggs till they are lightly frothed. Boil a quart of cold and a pint of boiled sack (or sherry) with three-quarters of a pound of sugar and a little grated nutmeg. Skim the liquor carefully, and when it has boiled a few minutes, stir it off the fire for a minute, then add it gradually to the beaten eggs. Stir the pre- paration over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken, pour it quickly from one vessel to another till quite smooth, and then serve. Master Rudstone’s recipe :—Take a quart of sherry or brandy, and boil it with a quarter of a pint of ale and three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Skim it well, then mix it gradually with the well-beaten yolks of two and the whites of sixteen eggs. Let the mixture cool till the eggs thicken, then stir in three pints of milk or cream which have been boiled down toa quart. Pour it quickly from one vessel to another till it is quite smooth, and then serve. Sack Whey (ror Invarips).—Boil a pint of milk, and as it rises in the pan stir into it three glasses of sherry. Let it boil once more, then drain it back, and let it stand till the curd forms. Filter the whey, sweeten, dilute it, or not, with a little water, and serve. Saddle of Mutton, Carving of. — “This joint,” says M. Ude, “is by no means am economical one, as no meat from the butcher’s shop is so excessively dear, consider- ing the little meat you can cut from it, and the great waste there is in skin, fat, and bone; and that, above all, it produces no cold meat for future use, and can only be used again in the shape of hash. SADDLE OF MUTTON. “The method usually adopted in carving this joint is contrary to taste and judgment. To have your meat in the grain, pass your knife straight to one side of the chine, as close as possible to the bone; then turn the knife straight from you, and cut the first slice out; then cut slices of leanandfat. By disengaging the slices from the flat bone in this manner, it will have a better appearance, and you will be enabled to assist more guests. “The amateur of tender meat will, by turning the saddle: upside down, find that the under fillets are most, excellent,;.and worthy to be offered to the first epicure of the day.” 50—n.£. Lady Mallet’s | Saffron. — Saffron is very largely adul- terated with the petals of other plants, espe- cially with those of the marigold. Saffron is. now chiefly imported from the South of Europe, especially Spain. It was formerly much cultivated in this country in the vicinity of Saffron Walden, in Cambridgeshire. The English saffron is superior to: that brought from Spain. Saffron used to be so extensively used in Cornwall that that county consumed more than all the rest of England put together. In the West of England it is still largely used to colour cakes. Saffron Cakes.—Take a quartern of fine flour, and a pound and a half of butter, three ounces of caraway-seeds, six eggs well-beaten, a quarter of an ounce of well-beaten cloves and mace, a little pounded cinnamon, one pound of sugar, @ little rose-water and saffron, a pint and a half of yeast, and a quart of milk. Mix these ingredients thus: first boil the milk and butter, then skim off the butter, and mix it with the flour and a little of the milk. Stir the yeast into the rest, and strain it. Mix it with the flour; put in the eggs and spice, rose-water, tincture of saffron, sugar, and eggs. Beat it all well up, and bake in a hoop or pan well-but- tered, in a quick oven. Time to bake, an hour and a half. Saffron Cakes or Buns.— Loaves, cakes, or buns mixed with a little saffron-water will be found both wholesome and palatable. The medicinal quality of saffron is stimulant, and its tendency is to help digestion. It is said to kill or drive out intestinal worms. To make the saffron-water, infuse a small quantity of saffron in a little water. After a few minutes, strain the liquor, and add a spoonful or two to an ordinary cake. Be sure that it rises well. The cake after baking will retain the taste and smell of the saffron, and will have a rich ap- pearance, Saffron Cordial Water . (Robinson’s recipe) :— Best picked saffron $0. Sifted loaf sugar . : - 402 Cinnamon and nutmeg, sliced, each 4 oz. Cloves and pimento, bruised 1 oz. Sweet almonds, beaten 1 oz. Bitter do. : . f 02. Caraways : : 1 oz. Pure water . s . . 1 pint. Proof spirit of wine 1 pint. Put the above ingredients into a stone jar, the almonds beaten with a little of the spirit: of wine. Secure the cork, and let the ingredients infuse in the usual manner. Then strain and filter clear; bottle, cork, and seal. This should be kept a while to let the strong flavour of the saffron go off. Saffron, Preparation of.—The bulbs of the saffron (Crocus sativus) are planted in rowg six inches apart, and three'from bulb to bulb, in a well-pulverised, not poor, nor a very stiff clay, in the month of July. The flowers are collected in September, and the yellow stigmas and part of the style are picked out, and dried ‘on a kiln, between layers of paper, and under SAF ( 786 ) SAG the pressure of a thick board, to form the mass into cakes. Two pounds of dried cake is the average crop of an acre, after the first planting, and twenty-four pounds for the two following years.” After the third crop the roots are taken up, divided, and transplanted. Saffron, Properties of.—Dr. Thomson in his ‘‘ Materia Medica” states that saffron excites the nerves of the stomach, and is in some degree narcotic; its incautious use has sometimes been attended with dangerous con- sequences. It is sometimes adulterated with safflower and marigolds; but. the adulteration is easily detected, for the petals of these flowers will appear distinct from the stigmata of the crocus. © ; * ee ty - Saffron is said to impart an intoxicating quality to bees. It exercises a specific in- fluence on the brain and nerves, and when taken in large doses causes immoderate mirth and involuntary laughter. Its exhilarating qualities are so remarkable that it has been supposed to-be the ‘“‘nepenthes” of Homer; and | to denote 4 merry temper it became a proverb —‘ He has slept in a saffron-bag.” It has.the singular property, also, of- counteracting the intoxication produced by alcoholic liquors, as hops to some extent do. This was known to Pliny, who says it allays the fumes of wine and prevents drunkenness. ‘‘ It was therefore taken | in drink by great wine-bibbers, to enable them to drink largely without ‘intoxication. Its effects; however,” says Professor Johnston, “ are very uncertain, and it is now little used, in medicine, and still less, I believe, for adul- | terating beer.” _ Saffron Pudding.—Boil a table-spoonful of real saffron in half a tea-cupful of water until the decided taste and smell peculiar to the flower has been extracted and the liquor has acquired a clear light-yellow tinge. Mince finely three-quarters of a pound of suet, and mix with it a pinch of ‘salt, half a pound of flour, half a pound of grated brege-orame, and a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger. When thoroughly . mixed, stir in the saffron-water, three well-beaten eggs, and as much milk or cream as is required to make a light, smooth dough. Turn this into a floured cloth, tie securely, allowing room for the pudding to swell, plunge it .into -boiling water, and boil until lene enough. Time to boil, three hours. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Saffron, Spurious.—The term saffron is often applied ‘to the Carthamus tinctorius, a large thistle-like plant, belonging to the order Composite. The root is perennial, but the stem herbaceous. It is said to have been originally brought from the East, but it is now naturalised in many parts of Europe, and.is, besides, extensively cultivated. In’ Spain ‘the flowers are used for colouring soups, olives, and other dishes. The Jews in Poland are remark- ably fond of this spurious’ saffron, and mix it with their bread and most of their viands. In Germany it is cultivated in a light soil, well pulverieed, and is sown in rows about eighteen inches apart: it is afterwards thinned so as to leave three or four inches between the plants. The plants, begin to flower in September, and the field is then gone over once every week for six or seven weeks, in order to gather the expanded florets, which are dried in a kiln, in the same way as true saffron. The Carthamus is occasionally employed in cookery’ under the impression that it is the ‘genuine saffron, ‘If too great quantities are ‘used, it produces a purgative effect. re son, 2° ‘ ' Saffron Tea (to assist digestion).—Mix a pinch of saffron with a:quarter of a ‘pint of hot water. Let it infuse for ten minutes, then add two or three. table-spoonfuls. of brandy-or any other spirit and a lump of sugar. Serve hot or cold. Time, ten.minutes. . - ’ Sage.—Sageis a plant much used in cookery for stuffings and sauces: it is supposed to assist - digestion. Red sage is the ‘best, and green sage the next best. . August and September are'the months for drying sage. 23 Sage and Onion Gravy.—Prepare a little more sage and onion stuffing than is re- quired, and rub a portion of it through a sieve. Mix with the pulp as much good stock as will make the requisite quantity of gravy, add a spoonful of Harvey’s Sauce, let all boil up once, and serve. Sage and Onion Stuffing for Geese, Pork, and Ducks,—Skin ten or twelve onions, and throw them into cold water. When all are peeled; put them with six or eight: green sage-leaves into asaucepan of boiling water and let them boil till tender. Pour off the water, mince the onions'and sage finely, and beat them well with a piece of butter the size of an egg and a little pepper and salt. Heat the onions again till the butter is dissolved, and serve very hot. If dried sage is used, it must be' pow- dered and mixed with the onions after they are boiled. Time, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 6d: Sufficient for half a dozen persons. : ' Sage and Onion Stuffing (another way). —4See Onion and Sage Stuffing for Geese, &c:). SAG ( 787 ) SAG Sage and Onion Stuffing for Geese, Pork, and Ducks (another way).—Peel four large onions, and boil them for three minutes ; add about-half-a-dozen sage-leaves, and boil all for two minutes longer. Strain off the liquor, and mince finely the onions and sage. Return them to the saucepan with a slice of fresh but- ter, a little pepper and salt, and a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs. Let all simmer gently together, and stir the mixture occasionally, to keep it from burning, for twenty minutes, when the stuffing will be ready for use. A beaten egg may be addedifliked. Sage and onion stuffing is generally seasoned rather highly.. When it is used for goose, the liver of the bird may be boiled, minced, and mixed with it. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized goose or a couple of ducks... Sage and Thyme.—The leaves of these plants. are used fresh and dry, and form the flavouring of those ingredients which are put into the inside of ducks, geese, roast pigs, sausages, and other animal food brought to the table. “They are warm and discussive, and good against crudities of the stomach,’ accord- ing to an old writer on the subject. Sage Cheese.—There is a kind of sage cheese which used to be, and perhaps still is, made by a few families in Gloucestershire for their private consumption: it is the most delicious of any of the green cheeses. It is intended for immediate use, and will not keep long. A quantity of young sage-leaves are bruised in a mortar, and the juice is extracted from them: the juice of a quantity of spinach is extracted by the same process and mixed with the sage-juice in equal proportions. Just before the rennet is put to the milk, a quantity of this juice, equal to the colour and flavour intended to be given to the cheese, is mixed with the milk. As the curd is being formed, it is gently ‘broken, and in equal lumps as nearly as possible. The whey is then separated, and the curd put into the vat and submitted to gentle and gradual pressure during seven hours. It is next salted twice a day for three or four days, and afterwards turned every day during five weeks. It is then fit for use. This cheese is very little known, and deserves to be more so; it may be made anywhere with rich and unsophisticated milk. This is also, or ought to be, a one-meal cheese. Sage Gargle (for sore throat).—Boil a handful of sage-leaves in a pint of water till the liquor is reduced one-half. Strain it, let it get cold, then mix with it half a pint of vinegar, and sweeten with honey or sugar. A glassful of port may be added to the gargle, or not. Sage Goose Stuffing (see Goose Stuffing, Sage and Onion). Sage, Onion, and Apple Stuffing for Geese, Pork, and Ducks.—Put four apples, four onions, four sage-leaves, and four Jemon-thyme leaves. into a saucepan -with as much water as will cover them. Let them simmer till tender, then pour off the water, and rub them through a sieve. Season the pulp with pepper and salt, mix with it as much mashed potato as will make it dry and smooth, and the stuffing will be ready for use. If liked, a spoonful of boiled rice may ‘be mixed with the sage and-onions instead of the potatoes. Time, an hour or more. Probable:cost, about 4d. Suf- ficient for one goose or two ducks. Sage, Properties of.—Sage once had a high reputation for‘ its medicinal qualities; but at present these do not appear to be much thought of. It possesses, however, some as- tringerit and ‘aromatic powérs; and a decoc- tion, or sage tea, is of use'in cases of debitity of the stomach, and in nervous disorders. The broad-leaved balsamic species is the most effi- cacious for its medicinal qualities and as a tea herb: Sage.is also introduced into cheese, and we have given above an excellent recipe for the manufacture of sage cheese. Sage Tea.—‘ The virtues of sage,” says Dr. Paris, “have been so extravagantly praised that, like many of,our remedies, the plant is fallen into disuse from the disgust which its panegyrists have excited. I am convinced. however, that in the form of infusion it pos- sesses some power of allaying the irritability of the stomach, and that, on many occasions, it will furnish a salutary beverage.” : ‘Sage, Varieties of.—The varieties of sage are the common or. red, the green, the small- leaved or sage of virtue, and the broad-leaved or balsamic. ‘The red is. the principal sort in culinary use, having the most agreeable and fullest: flavour; the green. is next in estimation with the cook; but the small-leaved is generally preferred to those to eat as a raw herb and for decoctions, while the broad-leaved balsamic species is the most efficacious in a medical way, and -is also,a tea herb. However, any of the sorts may he occasionally used for these alter- nate purposes. Sage, Wholesoméness of.— The gar- den sage (Salvia officinalis) was formerly in great repute as a sudorific, aromatic, astringent, and antiseptic. It possesses stimulant properties in a high degree, is tonic and stomachic; the odour is strong, aromatic, and agreeable; the taste bitter, pungent, and somewhat resembling camphor, which substance, indeed, is contained in the ‘plant. The leaves are often employed in seasoning dishes, especially in the South of Europe. The Chinese esteem this plant very highly, and use it as a tonic for strengthening the stomach, often giving it the preference to their own tea.”— Sage Wine, Green.—Take nine pounds of good honey, and boil them with, ten gallons of river or rain-water and the whites of ten eggs well beaten. Boil for one hour, skimming till the liquid is clear; while hot, pour it upon forty pounds of good Malaga raisins picked from the stalks and. stonéd and cut small, and three pecks of green sage-leaves freshly gathered and shred roughly. ver the preparation closely, and stir now and again for forty-eight hours. At theend of that time press the fruit in a hair bag, strain the liquid into a clean vessel, and on the following day draw off what is clear into a cask. Filter the lees, and add them with the rinds of six lemons and four Seville oranges pared thin, and the juice of both strained. SAG ( 788 ) SAG Keep the cask open for four or five days and well filled up; when the liquor has done hissing, wait a day, then add three half-pints of brandy and an ounce and a half of best isinglass dis- solved in two quarts of the wine. Secure the bung carefully, and store in a cool dry cellar for twelve months; then, if fine, bottle the wine; if not, rack it off into a clean vessel, filter the dregs two or three times through a flannel bag, and fill the cask again. Add a pint more brandy and four ounces of sugar-candy ; then stop the cask up again, and bottle the wine in three months. If kept for half a year this wine will be excellent and highly flavoured. Sage Wine, Red.—Take. three pecks of red sage-leaves, pick them from the stalks, shred them roughly, and pour over them four gallons of boiling soft water. Cover the vessel closely, and let it stand for one day. Take forty-five pounds of good Malaga raisins, pick them, cut them in halves, take out the stones,.and pour over them six gallons of water that has been well boiled and grown lukewarm. Stir well, and cover them up. Then mix the contents of the two vessels, add the rinds of ten lemons, ared very thin, and their juice. Let all infuse for five days, stirring twice daily. Place ina clean ten-gallon cask six ounces of sugar-candy and an ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and beaten to a paste together with a spoonful of brandy. Strain the liquor upon them, filling to the bunghole of the cask, which must be tightly’ covered. Let the liquor work out, keeping the cask full, and on the fermentation ceasing, put in a quart of brandy, and stop up the bunghole for two months. Then rack the liquor into a | clean vessel, filter the lees, and return all that is clear into the cask again with six ounces more of sugar-candy, a pint of brandy, and an ounce and a half of isinglass dissolved in two quarts of the wine. Stop the; cask effectually, and store for twelve months. At the end of the year bottle the wine, and when it is eighteen months. old it will be fit for use. This is an excellent stomachic wine. SAGO. Showing Palm, Flower, and Ripe Fruit. _ Sago.—The farinaceous food of this name is light, wholesome, and nutritious, and especially suited for children and invalids. It is made from the pith of a tree which grows abundantly in the East Indies. In order to obtain it, the tree is cut down, and the pith extracted from the trunk, reduced to powder, washed, dried, and rubbed into grains for exportation. (See Sago, Manufacture of). Large forests of the sago-palm’ grow in the Moluccas, and one tree will yield from 100 to 800 pounds of sago. Sago and Apple Pudding.—Soak a tea-cupful of large sago in cold water for an hour, to free it from the earthy taste. Rinse it well, and boil gently till clear in a quart of water. Stir frequently, and add a little more hot water if necessary. This will depend upon the quality of the sago, which when taken from the fire should be tolerably thin, Half fill a large buttered pie-dish with partially- boiled apples. Sweeten these, and sprinkle over them a little grated lemon-rind or pow- déred cinnamon. Pour the boiled sago over them, and bake the pudding in a moderate oven. ‘When the apples are soft the pudding is done enough. Time to boil the sago, about an hour; to bake the pudding, about an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Sago, Beer Soup with (see Beer Soup with Sago). Sago Bread.—One-fourth, or at most one- third, is the best proportion to wheaten bread. Dissolve the sago for three hours in milk-warm water on a hob. Then mix as for common bread. ‘The loaves should be baked in a slack oven for two hours, then allowed to grow stale, when the bread will be found excellent and économical. Sago for Invalids.—Soak a table-spoon- ful of sago for an hour. Rinse it, and boil it gently till clear with a pint of water or milk and water. A little thin lemon-rind, grated nut- meg, cinnamon, or any other flavouring, may be boiled witk it, or the sago may be merely sweetened and served with a table-spoonful of wine or brandy stirred into it at the last moment. If the sago is too thick, a little more water may be added. Time, about three- quarters of an hour to boil the sago. . Sufficient for one person. Probable cost, 2d., exclusive of the wine, &c. Sago Gruel.—Take two table-spoonfuls of sago, and place them in a small saucepan; moisten gradually with a little cold water. Set the preparation on a slow fire, and keep stirring till it becomes rather stiff and clear. Add a little grated nutmeg and sugar to taste; if preferred, half a pat of butter may also be added. with the sugar, anda glassful of wine will be an improvement to the gruel. Sago Jelly.—Take one pound of sago and five pints of water. Wash the sago well, then boil it with the water till it is reduced to a transparent jelly. The preparation may be flavoured to taste. Sago, Manufacture of.—The following description of the manufacture of this important article of commerce is given by Mr. Simmonds in his “Commercial Products of the Vegetable Kingdom” :—“ The tree being cut down, the exterior bark is removed, and the heart or pith SAG ( 789 ) SAG of the palm—a soft white spongy and mealy substance—is gathered, and for the purpose of distant transportation it is put into conical bags made of plantain-leaves, and neatly tied up. In that state it is called by the Malays sangoo tampin, or ‘bundles of sago’—each bundle weighs about thirty pounds. On its arrival at Singapore it is bought by the Chinese manufac- turers of sago, and is thus treated :—Upon being carried to the manufactory, the plantain-leaf covering is removed, and the raw sago, impart- ing a strong acid odour, is bruised, and is put into large tubs of cold spring water, where it undergoes a process of purification by -being stirred, suffered to repose, and then re-stirred in newly-introduced water. When well purified thus, it is taken out of the tubs by means of small vessels; and being mixed with wu great deal of water, the liquid is gently poured upon a large and slightly-inclined trough, about ten inches in height and width, and in the descent towards the depressed end the sago is deposited in the bottom of the trough, whilst the water flows into another large tub, where what may remain of sago is finally deposited. As the strata of deposited sago increases in the trough, small pieces of slate are adjusted to its lower end to prevent the escape of the substance. When by this pouring process the trough becomes quite full of sago, it is then removed to make room for a fresh one, whilst the former one is put out into the air, under cover, for a short time; and on its being well dried, the sago within is cut into square pieces and taken out to be thoroughly dried, under cover, to protect it from the sun. It has then lost the acid smell already noticed, and has become quite white. After one day’s drying thus, it is taken into what may be called the manufactory—a long shed, open in front and on one side, and closed at the other and in the rear. Here the lumps of sago are broken up, and are reduced to an impalpable flour, which is passed through asieve. The lumps which are retained by the sieve are put back to be rebruised, whilst that portion which has passed is collected, and is placed in a long cloth bag, the gathered ends of which, like those of a hammock, are attached to apole, which pole being suspended to a beam of the building by a rope, one end of it is sharply thrown forward with a particular jerk, by means of which the sago within is speedil; granulated very fine, and becomes what is technically termed ‘pearled.’ It is then taken out and put into iron vessels, called gualties, for the purpose of being dried. These quallies are small elliptical pans, and resemble in form the sugar coppers of the West Indies, and would each hold about five gallons of fluid. They are set a little inclining, and in a range, over a line of furnaces, each one having its own fire. Before putting in the sago to be dried, a cloth, which contains a small quantity of hog’s lard or some oily substance, is hastily passed into the qually, and the sago is equally quickly put into it, and a Chinese labourer who attends it commences stirring it vigorously, and thus continues his labour during the few minutes necessary to expel the moisture contained in the substance. Thus each qually, containing about ten pounds of sago, requires the attendance of | aman. The sago, on being taken off the fire, is spread out to cool on large tables, after which it is fit to be packed in boxes, or put into bags for shipment, and is known in commerce under the name of ‘pearl sago.’” Sago-Meal.—Sago is sometimes imported into this country in the pulverulent state, in which it can be distinguished from arrowroot only by microscopic examination of its particles. These are uniform and spherical, not unequal and ovoid, like those of arrowroot. ‘In this state it is known as sago-meal. — Sago Milk.—Soak a large table-spoonful of sago in water for an hour, then boil it: in fresh water for two or three minutes. Pour the liquor off, and substitute for it a quart of new milk. Boil the sago gently till the milk is reduced toa pint. Sweeten, flavour, and serve. Time, about an hour to boil the sago with the milk. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for one person. i Sago Milk (another way).— : Semolina Cup-Puddings.—Put. three ounces of semolina into a bowl,.and pour over it as much milk as will cover it. Let it soak for half an hour, drain it, and put it info a saucepan, with a ;pint and a half of boiling milk, three. table-spoontuls of, powdered sugar, a slice of fresh butter, and a salt-spoonful of grated lemon-rind., Stix, it over-the fire without ceasing for about a quarter of an hour. Pour it out, let it cool a little, and, beat briskly into. it four well-whisked eggs. Pour the mixture into buttered cups, and bake in a moderate oven. Turn the puddings upon a dish, and pour sweet sauce round them, before serving. Time to bake, ten minutes. - Probable cost, 1s, 3d. Sutfficient for five or six persons. Semolina Pudding.—tTake a pint and'a half of milk, ‘when boiling drop into it three table-spoonfuls' of semolina, ‘and stir all to- gether for about fifteen minutes; throw in two ounces of butter, and three ounces and a half of ‘sifted sugar, with the grated rind of a lemon. Whilst the semolina still remains hot, beat gradually and briskly into it four eggs. Bake an a moderaté oven. Time to bake, half an our, Semolina Pudding, Baked,—Flavour a pint and a half of milk with almonds: or lemon-rind, Put it into a saucepan, let it boil up, and drop into it when boiling, three table- spoonfuls of semolina, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and a slice of fresh. butter. Stir the mixture over the fire till it thickens a little. Pour it out,.let it cool, and add gradually four well-beaten eggs. Line a pie-dish half way down with. good pastry, butter the bottom, pour in the mixture, and bake the pudding in. a moderate oven. Ifa plain pudding is required, two eggs only need be used. Serve stewed fruit. or wine sauce with the pudding. Time to bake,, about half an hour, or till set. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient.for four or five persons, - Semolina Pudding, French (see Gateau de Semoule). ¢ SEM (881°) SHA Semolina Pudding, Steamedi—Take a pint of milk, and flavour it with, pounded bitter almonds, Strain, and put it into a saucepan, and mix with it three ounces ‘of: semolina, six or eight ratafias, a pinch of salt, threé table- spoonfuls of sugar, and a good slice of butter. Stir the mixture over the fire till it thickens and leaves.the sides of the saucepan. Pour it out, let-it cool, and stir briskly into it six -well- whisked eggs. Butter a plain’ mould rather thickly, fill it with the preparation, cover it closely, and steam until done enough. Let it stand two or three.minutes. Turn the pudding out. carefully, pour stewed fruit or sweet sauce round it, and send a little more to table ona separate dish. “The saucepan must be closely covered, and @ continuous supply of steam kept round the pudding, that it may be thoroughly cooked. Time to steam; one hour. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. ‘Sufficient for four or five persons. Semolina Soup:—Take any kind of nicely-flavoured stock, andvlet it boil. Drop intoit as much semolina-as will thicken it, and keep stirring for fear it should burn. Let it simmer ently until done enough, and serve very hot: Time to simmer, ten minutes. From ‘one to two ounces of semolina will thicken a ‘quart of ‘stock. 7 ; Service Berries.—These are the fruit of. the wild service-tree, very common: in: the -hedges and fields of some parts of England. They are at present little known, but were in considerable use formerly. The country people im some pla¢ds gather the bunches' of berries, and hang, thém up in the air till they undergo ‘an incipient putrefaction; in which: state: they possess a peculiar acid, astringent: taste; and are considered as having cathartic properties. aes by frost they have been used as food. Seville Orange.—The Seville orange is of the same species as the sweet orange, but so ‘bitter'in taste that it is unfit to eat im its raw state. It is chiefly used for making marmalade (see: Orange Marmalade) and wine, and the rind is used for flavouring purposes. It seldom comes into the market before the end of February. Seville Orange Cakes. — Divide the oranges in halves, and take out the pips, of which‘ there are a good many small ones. Scrape the pulp and juice into a bowl, and boil the rinds until they are so. tender that a fork will pierce them easily. Dry them, and weigh them, and allow two pounds of powdered sugar to one pound of orange-rind. | Pound them to paste in a mortar, and add, very. gradually, the juice, the pulp, and the powdered sugar. Mix all together, and when the pre- ‘paration is thick and yellow, drop it upon tins, and dry these in a cool oven. Time,about two hours to boil the rind. Probable cost, Seville oranges, 1s. per dozen when plentiful. _ Seville Orange Cardinal.—A few days before the cardinal is wanted peel three bitter oranges, slice them very thin, and pour a bottle of wine over them; then strain the preparation through a tamis, and add to the juice two bottles ‘of wine and’ two or’ three’ ‘pounds of | sugar: keep stirring all the'time till the sugar ‘is completely melted. Seville Orange Cordial Water.— Take one handful of young green fir-treo tops, two handfuls of watercresses, the same of scurvy-grass, one pound of . burdock, roots scraped and sliced, the thin, rinds of twelve Seville oranges, the juice of the same, and five gallons of newly-brewed ale-wort. Beat tho herbs in a mortar, and infuse. all while. the wort is fermenting with the yeast. When done working, stop it up, and drink occasionally when fine. : Seville Orange ‘Paste © (see: Orange, Seville, Paste for Dessert). g Shad.—Shad is a salt-water fish, not very. highly esteemed. It is in season from'the end of March till May, and may be broiled, fried, baked, -boiled;: or salted. When plentiful it is cheap, but’ it varies very much ‘in price. The: French value this fishbhighly. . They often have it stewed in light winesand-served covered with béchamel. Ver hs SHAD. Shad, Broiled.—No. 1. Scale ‘a ‘fish, cut off its head, empty and’ wash it‘carefully, split it open down the sides of the backbone, anid, if liked, ‘divide each fillet into. pieces two or three inches wide. Wipe these pieces with, a.soft cloth; dip them in oil, and broil them gently until-done enough. : Remember-to lay the inner part ‘of the flesh to the. fire.first;.and when one side is done turn it upon the other... Work a tea-spoonful of salt and a tea-spoonful of pepper into four ounces of butter with the point of a sharp knife. Lay the paste on a hot dish, and turn the broiled fish two or. three times in it. Put the dish-cover over it, and keep it in’a hot place till wanted. No. 2. Clean, empty, and dry a fish weighing. about ‘two pounds, and score it across: the back. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it, pour upon it as much oil as will cover it, and let it lie until it is well soaked. Broil it over a clear steady fire, and when one side is done turn it upon the other. Drain it, serve on a hot dish, and send oil and vinegar, or caper sauce, sorrel SHA ( 862 ) SHA sauce, or maitre d’hétel butter, to table with it. Time, half an hour to soak the fish, and about » eighteen minutes to broil each side. Cost, variable. Shad, French way of Cooking.— “This fish,” says M. Ude, “is held in high esti- mation in France, and especially in Paris. It must be scaled, emptied, and washed nicely. Next it is to be steeped in a little oil with pepper and salt. It is necessary to split it, that tho salt may penetrate. Broil it on both sides over a slow fire. It will be done in the course of one hour. When done, let it be served with caper sauce, or with sorrel.’ Shad, Fried.—Scale the fish, lift the flesh from the bones, and divide it inta pieces con- venient for serving. Preserve the roe to fry with it. Wash the pieces, wipe them dry with a soft cloth, and dip each one separately in flour. Put them into boiling hot fat, and fry them gently until done enough. Drain them, and serve them upon a hot dish. Fry the roe, and garnish the fish with it. Serve with caper or maitre d’hétel sauce. Time to fry, ten minutes or more, according to thickness. Shad, Planked, American.—Scale and ! - th z | they are of a harsh flavour and pale colour empty the fish, cut off the head, and split it open from head to tail. Spread it on a board, and fasten it down with pegs or skewers to keep it in position. Put it before a clear fire, and rest the lower end of the plank in a tub containing salt and water. Toast the fish, and keep basting it well with the liquor; when it is almost cooked baste it with butter. Serve on a hot dish, garnish with pickled walnuts, and send melted butter flavoured with walnut ketchup to table in a tureen. Shad, Potted.—Clean the shad, take off the head, tail, and fins, and cut it in pieces to suit the jar in which it is tobe potted. Pound, first separately and afterwards together, two blades of mace, two tea-spoontfuls of allspice, and a tea-spoonful of cloves. Sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and cayenne over the pieces of fish, pack them in layers in a jar, and dredge a little of the seasoning over each layer. When the jar is full cover the whole with vinegar, put the lid on the jar, or if it is necessary to tie a covering of paper or cloth over it, lay a piece of dough upon this to prevent the steam escaping. Put the jar in a moderate oven, and bake until done enough. Keep the potted fish covered with the liquor till wanted. It will make a good breakfast relish, Herrings may be potted in the same way. Time to bake, about three hours. Shad, Stuffed and Baked. — Wash, empty, and scale a shad, and fill the inside with veal or oyster forcemeat, or with a force- meat prepared as follows :—Moisten two slices of crumb of bread with hot water, press the water from it, and -beat it up with a slice of butter, three or four sage-leaves chopped small, and a little pepper and salt. Sew up the body of the fish with soft cotton, and dredge it well with flour. Lay it upon a trivet in a dripping- pan, seasoning it with pepper and salt; lay little pieces of butter here and there upon it, and pour a pint of water round it to baste it with. Bake in « quick oven, and baste frequently, and if necessary add a little more water. Mix a heaped tea-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste with a little water, work into it a slice of fresh butter, and mix with it half a pint of the gravy in the pan. Put it into a saucepan, stir it till it thickens, and add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Put the fish on a hot dish, strain the sauce over it, garnish with parsley and lemon, and send mashed potatoes to table with it. Time to bake, one hour. Shad, Stuffed and Broiled.—Scale a shad weighing about two pounds, empty and clean it carefully, opening it as little as pos- sible in doing so. Fill it with veal or oyster forcemeat ; sew up the body of the fish with soft cotton that the forcemeat may not escape. Wrap it in a sheet of paper that has been dipped in oil, and broil over a clear, gentle fire. Serve with caper sauce or with oil and vinegar. Time to broil, about an hour. Shaddock Orange.—This plant was brought from the East Indies to the West, where it is now much cultivated. It sometimes produces fruit larger than a man’s head, but when compared with those of India, the flesh of which is sweet and of a deep gold colour. ‘When several sorts of orange are presented at the dessert it makes a striking addition to the variety. The juice is of a sub-acid sweetness, and excellent for quenching thirst, and the fruit, from the thickness of its skin, will keep longer in sea-voyages than any of the other species of citrus. Shallot.—The shallot, or eschalot, is a kind of onion—the mildest cultivated—used for seasoning soups and made dishes, and for flavouring sauces and salads. The shallot has a bulbous root, made up of a number of smaller bulbs, called cloves. It ought to be taken up in the autumn, and be hung in nets in a cool airy place. When properly dried, it will keep till spring. It is stronger in taste than the onion, but does not leave so strong an odour on the palate, and for this reason is often em- ployed instead of the onion, both in cooking and for eating in a raw state. It is planted during October or November, or early in spring, say in February, March, or the beginning of April. Shallots are in the best condition during July, August, and September. Shaliot for Venison.— Strip off the skin from some fine shallots—about a pint in quantity—boil them in salted water for five minutes, then throw off the first water, and add more boiling water to them. If the sauce is desired very mild, change the water until quite done, and throw in salt enough to flavour. Drain them thoroughly. Serve in good melted butter or gravy. This sauce is often served as an accompaniment to venison when the true flavour of the meat is not relished. Time, about fifteen minutes to boil. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. for this quantity. Shallot Gravy (see Gravy, Shallot), SHA ( 863 ) SHA Shallot Gravy, for Broiled Cutlets, &e.—Peel and mince half a dozen shallots. Put them into a saucepan with a wine-glassful of vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a little coarse pepper, and let them boil very gently for five minutes. Pour over them a quarter ai a pint of brown gravy, add a small lump of sugar, let the sauce boil again until the gravy is pleasantly flavoured, and strain it into a tureen: If liked, a clove and a little piece of mace may be boiled with the shallot. Time, altogether, twelve to fifteen minutes. Shallot Pickle.—Shallot pickle is pre- pared in the same way as garlic pickle, that is to say, as follows:—Steep one quarter of a pound of ginger in strong salt and water for five days. At the end of that time cut it into slices, and dry it in the sun; put it into a large stone jar with a gallon of the best white-wine vinegar. Peel one pound of garlic or shallot, salt it well, and let it stand in the salt for three days. Wipe it, and dry it in the sun, then put it into the pickle. Add also to the pickle a quarter of a pound of long pepper steeped in salt and water and well dried, one pound of bruised mustard-seed, and a quarter of a pound of tur- meric. Shake these ingredients well in the jar, and add anything that it is desirable to pickle as it comes into season, salting and drying it pre- viously in the sun. When completed, the pickle should be kept for a year‘or two. When that time has expired, it will be found to be excellent. The flavour of shallots may be obtained by placing them in a bottle of cold vinegar: ina month they will be found to have imparted their flavour to the vinegar. Shallot Sauce, for Boiled Mutton, Poul Chops, and Steaks. — Mince four shallots, lay them on the corner of a napkin, pour cold water over them, and press them with a cloth till dry. Put them intoa saucepan with a quarter of a pint of stock, add a little pepper and salt, and let them simmer gently till they are tender. Mix with them a quarter of a pint of good melted butter, and stir the sauce again over the fire, but do not allow it to boil up. Add a dessert-spoonful of chilli vinegar, and serve. Time, altogether, a quarter of an hour. Shallot Sauce, for Tripe, &c.—Skn and mince twelve shallots, and add, if liked, a little piece of garlic the size of a pea. This addition, however, is sometimes objected to. Put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and also a tea-spoonful of finely-grated horseradish, a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice, and a little salt, cayenne, and mixed mus- tard. Stir these ingredients quickly over a brisk fire for, five minutes; add gradually a quarter _, of a pint of milk, and simnmer the sauce a few minutes longer. Lift the saucepan from the fire, and let its contents cool for two minutes. Stir into the sauce the yolk of an egg beaten up with a quarter of a pint of cream or milk, and whisk it over the fire for a minute or two, but on no account allow it to boil; serve very hot. Time, altogether, a quarter of an hour. Shallot Sauce, Mild.—Pare four or six shallots, and throw them into boiling water slightly salted. Let them boil five minutes; drain them, and boil them again in fresh boiling water: repeat this until the shallots are tender. Drain them, mince them, and stir them into a pint of good melted butter or white sauce. Let all simmer together a few minutes longer, and serve. Some cooks put an inch of lemon-rind with the shallots. Time to boil the shallots, about a quarter of an hour. Shallot Vinegar.—Take four ounces of shallots that are fully ripe without being at all acrid. Skin and mince them, put them into a bottle, and pour over them a quart of. best pickling vinegar. ‘Let them infuse for ten days, shaking the bottle every day. Strain the vinegar, filter it, bottle in small bottles, cork these securely, and store for use. This pre- paration will prove most valuable for flavouring, soups, sauces, hashes, &c. It will keep for a long time. Time, ten days to infuse. Shallots are in season during the months of July, August, and September. Shallot Vinegar (another way).—Skin five or six ounces of shallots, and put them into a jar with a quart of good vinegar; keep the jar closely corked for three weeks, then strain for use. If a stronger flavour be desired, use more shallots. Garlic vinegar is made in the same way, only using half the quantity of garlic to one quart of vinegar. Time, from two to three weeks. Shallot Wine.—Shallot wine is a pre- paration largely used and highly esteemed. ‘When an acid taste is not required, and, con- sequently, when shallot vinegar would be objected to, shallot wine will flavour a hash or ragoit with onion most pleasantly, and the wine extracts the flavour of shallots even better than vinegar does. Skin, mince, and bruise four ounces of shallots; put them into a bottle witha pint of sherry, and let them infuse ten days or a fortnight; strain the liquor, and bottle for use. When a very strong flavouring is desired, pour the pint of sherry over three ounces of shallots ; let them infuse ten days; pour off the liquor, and put it into a clean bottle with three ounces of fresh shallots, skinned and bruised. Infuse ten days longer, strain, and bottle for use. Time, ten days or more. Shallot Wine.—Put four ounces of shallots, after having peeled and bruised them, into a bottle, add a pint of sherry ; look at the wine in about a fortnight, and if sufficiently flavoured strain it off; but if not, add two ounces more shallots to the wine, and half a tea-spoonful of cayenne.« Shake the bottle occasionally, but let it rest three or four days before straining, so that the wine may be a good colour and not thick. This wine is very | useful in all large culinary establishments, as it imparts an agreeable flavour without any acidity. ‘Time to prepare, from ten to twenty days. Probable cost, 8d. without wine. Shallots, Pickled.—Take as much vine- gar as will be required to cover the shallots, and boil it with spices in the following propor- tions. To each quart of vinegar put a small blade of mace, two cloves, four allspice, two grains of cayenne, a salt-spoonful of black . peppercorns, and a tea-spoonful of salt. Strain SHA: (854 ) SHE it; and let it ‘get cold. ‘Divide ‘anid skin the shallots ; ‘put them into perfectly dry and sound pickling jars, and intersperse amongst them’ the spices taken from the vinegar. Pour the vinegar over them, and.let them be. entirely covered with it.. Store for use.- The pickle may be used in two months. Time to boil the vinegar and spices, three ‘minutes. ~ et Sharp Sauce, for Cutlets, Boiled Beef, Boiled Mutton; &c.—Skin and mince four shallots, and put them into a sauce- pan with a slice of fresh butter and four table- spoonfuls of vinegar. Stir these over the fire till the vinegar is reduced and the butter looks clear.” Mix one ounce ‘of flour smdothly into it, | and keep stirring over a brisk fire until the. paste is ‘slightly coloured without being at ‘all burnt. Add gradually a pint of broth, and let the sauce simmer for’ twenty minutes. Stir in a table-spoonful of miriced” gherkins, a table-spoonful of blanched and chopped pars- ley, and a little pepper and salt, if required. Boil, skim, and serve very hot.: A little brown- ing should be added if necessary. ° Time, | altogether, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. ee Sheep’s Brains (4 1a,Maitre d'Hotel).— Proceed just. as in the recipe; Sheep’s Brains, Matelote of, with the croutons (crusts). glazed -and stuck in the dish; and at dinner-time, | -ag soon as you have dished up the brains, -take three spoonfuls of béchamel, a good bit of fresh butter, a little salt and ‘cayenne, some parsley chopped and blanched, and. the juice of half alemon; then work the sauce over the fire to render it very hot, and servo quickly. Sheep’s Brains (a. la. Maitre d’Hotel). Another way.—Prepare and parboil the brains ; - then lay:them in the bottom ofa wide stew- pan, each brain resting ‘upon a slice of bacon. : Add a small: bunch of parsley, a small onion, one clove,.some salt, a chilli, a couple of slices\iof lemon;.and a.quarter of a pint of ~ brothyiiand cover..the -whole with a layer of bacon.. Cover the stewpan,..and ‘let its.con- tents stew slowly. for half. an hour without ‘being uncovered. Let the brains now stand a couple of hours in the stewpan by the side of -the fire, merely that they. may acquire the flavour of the ingredients in the stewpan; but ‘they must neither boil nor simmer, nor in any- wise approach ebullition. Have some triangular Slices of bread ready fried to garnish the dish | with. Drain the brains from the fat, place , them upon a dish with the sippets, and pour sover them the following sauce :—Into a small | stewpan put two ounces of butter; when it boils sprinkle in half a table-spoonful of flour. Stir into this half a pint of broth, and put in with it a-bunch of parsley and a very small bit of lemon-peel. "When the sauce is reduced and of proper consistence, season it with salt. and a little cayenne. Strain the sauce, and put it again into the stewpan, adding a little lemon-juice and some chopped parsley. Give it a few boils, and pour it quite hot over the brains. Sheep’s Brains and Tongue.—Take the brains out of the head without breaking eae Soe aN airs pee them} soak théih’ in salted water“for ‘iii fur, skin them, and pick away tho’ fibres.” Throw, them ‘into.’ boiling water, ptit the ‘tongue, ' already boiled with the head, with them. ' Let’ the brains boil quickly for a quarter of ‘an hour}, take them ‘out,’ mitice ‘théri, and beat them up with’ three table-spoonfuls’'of' the liquor in’which they were boildd; three table- spoonfuls of cream, a table-spoonful bf blariched and chopped parsley, and a, little. pepper ‘and salt. - Boil the brains with ‘half a: tea-spvontul of white thickening; or, failing this,'with a small piece of butter,rolled in flour. Skin the tongue,‘ put it in the centre of a small dish, pour the brains round it,-and serve very: hot. Time, altogether, thirty to forty minutes. Pro- | bable cost, sheéps’ ‘heads, 10d. to 1s. each.i, Sufficient for one or two persons. be Sheep’s Brains (cn Matelote).—Prepare the aks as for Sheep's Braing a la Matire ' d@’ Hotel, the almost only difference being in the sauce poured upon them, which is thus made :—' Put ‘two ounces of butter into a stewpan,” When it has done’ boiling, stir ‘into it half, a' table-spoonful of flour. Stir the buttdr and” flour till smooth,’ and let it fty gently ‘until’ it has acquired a rich brown colour, of reddish hue. Next add by ‘dégrees a pint 'of ‘white’ wine, madeira, or sherry, and half a pint ‘of’ well-flavoured and tich' broth, but without any” fat. Put in also;a bunch of herbs go tied up that it may easily be taken’ out. before the sauce’ isused. This bunch is td consist of’ parsley,’ green onions; half 'a | ‘bay-leaf, a very small bit ' \of thyme, and a clove of garlic. Let the sauce reduce; then throw in a few morels, small | mushrooms, and small bleached onions. Season with salt, black pepper, and cayenne. When the sauce is on the point of being done, put into it a, couple of ounces of :truffles cut into ‘slices ‘a! d fried on both sides in butter.’ Give them a couple of boils, and the sauce is ready.. ‘Meanwhile, make some balls of the stuffing as indicated for the Ox-palates au Gratin, and fry them in butter of a nice brown, taking care that . they be thoroughly done. When the brains are, ‘arranged in the dish with the sippets, garnish ‘with these forcemeat balls,.and with some crawfish; then pour the sauce ovér them, and . ‘serve up immediately. Ey yp Sheep’s Brains, Matelote of.—Take eight unbroken sheep’s brains. Put them into a large vessel with some lukewarm water ; take off. the ‘skin, and Tet them disgorge for two hours. When they are become quite white, blanch them in boiling water, vinegar, and salt; and when they are very firm put them in cold ‘watér, after which place some layers of bacon round’ a ‘stewpan big enough to hold all-the eight brains; add a small’ onion with’ one clove, a. small bundle of pars- ley well-seasoned, and sdéme salt, and cover if with some layers of bacon ‘and a round of paper; a little broth is required, and a few slices of lemon to keep them very white. Twenty minutes will settles to boil them, but they must be boiled two hours or more before dinner to acquire a flavour; then at dinner you must have ready some croutons, or small crusts of bread, in quantity equal to the brains, SHE atick ther iii the dish altértiately to leave réoth to: put-the: brains'in thé ‘spaces ;-mask them with: the’ sauce: of mateletes;- niushroonis, and small onions, &c.‘ This mateloté is the sanie sauce as the financjére, '‘dnly-reduce a ‘little madeira wine ina‘small stewpan, ‘and put'to it a maushroom, “a ‘small glazed* onion, &' sm: quenelle, &c., and put’ the ragoiit ‘into th utiddle, and the sauce over the brains. te Sag i BH a : Sheep’s ‘Brains, Roasted or Baked. —Four or six-brains will be required for a dish. Prepare the brains as for stewing, and: procure ag many-slices of bacon as there are brains. After ‘they have ‘been -boiled:.and thrown into cold water, drain. and dry -them perfectly ; brush over with oil, and, roll. them in highly- seasoned bread-crumbs. -Put them on the bacon before the fire in a Dutch oven, or bake in a well-heated oven, turning. them. about that-they: may be-equally cooked, and: basting them occa- sionally. When they are nicely browned, take them up. Lay the slices of bacon: on toast, put the brains- upon them; and send sharp sauce or tomato sauce to‘table in atureen. Time to bake, thirty to forty minutes. Probable cost, 2s.- Sufficient for, six or seven persons. - Sheep’s Brains, Scalloped.—Soak the ‘brains in cold salted water for an hour. Re- move the skin, and pick away the fibres, Put them into boiling water in which vinegar and salt have been mixed, and let them boil quickly for ten minutes. -Throw them into cold ;water for a few minutes, and drain them. Cut: them into small pieces, and’ mix with them an onion or shallot’ finely minced, a few parsley leaves scilded and chopped stall, a few drops of vinegar and anchovy essence, and a- little pepper and salt. Dissolve’ a, slice ‘of fresh butter in‘'a saucepan, throw in -the brains,’ and | shake' the’ saucepan: over-the fire until they are done enough without being “browned. Cleanse thé scallop-shelis, or small scallop-dishes which’ serve’ the'same purpose, butter the inside rather thickly, and cover them with‘a-layer-of bread- erumbs. “Distribute:the minced brains and the | gravy amongst them, and cover all With'a layer! of crumbs. Brown the stitface itl'a ‘quick oven or beforé the firé, and serve’very hot.’ This, favourite mode of ‘cookery inay be''advanta- geously ‘applied to cold: mes, ‘vegetables, mush- | rooms, fish, and shéil-fish.-Lime' to bake the scalloped brains, fifteen to“twenty mintites. Probable cost,'1s. 8d. Sufficient; one set of brains for two. scallop-shells, . 23 i ‘Sheep’s Brains, Stewed. (a. good breakfast or side-dish).—Take four or six fresh brains, soak them in salt’ and water for an hour, remove the skin, pick off the fibres, and put them into boiling water into which was put, when cold a dessert-spoonful of salt and a, table-spoonful of vinegar. Let the brains boil quickly for ten minutes. ‘Take them up’ without breaking them, and put them into cold water. Take as many thin slices of baeon as there are brains. Put them into @ saucepan, lay the brains upon them, pour over them as much stock or broth as will cover them, and add'a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, three. young onions, two cloves, an inch or two (855°). SHE _of thin: lethon-rind, and a’ Httle’ salt -diid ; cayenne. Cover the: saucepan closely,_and ‘let its contents, simmer, gently until: done, enowgh. ‘Put the “pieces of bacon, ona dish, and lay the brains upon them. . 3 ai k + i braix ‘them: Strain. the liquor, thicken it with flour and butter, stir a tablo-spognful of ‘Jemon-juice into it, and pour it over the meat. Garnish with sippets, and serve very hot. liked, a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence and a gilassful of. claret may be added to the sayce. ‘Time to boil the brains the second time, half an hour. Probable ¢ost,.2s.: Sufficient for six: or seven persons, os * Sheep’s Feet (se Sheep's Trotters). © _Sheep’s Harslet, Hashed.~Take the liver, heart, and lights of & sheep, and wash. them well in several waters. Boil them 'gently (till tender in salted’ water, carefully removing. \the scum as it rises. Mince them finely, season ‘with pepper and salt, and add a seasoning’ of, powdered herbs, if liked. Moisten the mince ‘with stock, thicken with brown thickening, and ‘stir it over the fire till it is quite hdt. Serve ‘on a hot dish, and send potatoes and. boiled ‘carrots to table with it. A few pickles may be’ served with it, if desired. Time to stew ithe meat, an hour and a half, or till tender. | Probable cost, variable, but inexpensive. Suf- (ficient for four or five persons. Sheep’s Head.—Sheep’s head has so little. meat belonging to it; either inside’ or out, that if seems to many persons ‘as though it were jscarcely worth the trouble it gives. Never- ‘theless it constitutes good nourishing’ food at a moderate expense, and when it’ is liked ‘at all it is very much liked. Several recipes are here given for preparing it.' It is’one of the ancient national’ dishes of Scotland, ‘and ‘to dwellers north of the Tweed is almost always welcome, not only on account of its intrinsic excellence, but also because of the associations jwhich belong to it. The village of Duddingston, néar Edinburgh, was'long celebrated for this ldish:'” A’ sheep’s head may be stewed with or without’ the trotters and ‘the’ pluck; nourishing. iand wholesome broth, may. be made ‘from it; it. maybe hashed, curried, or served ‘as''a ragoit, lor it may be made into a pie. When sauces are required for it,’ those usually served’ with cow ‘heel'or boiled ‘mutton are, thé’ best adapted for’ iit. Some cooks prefer the head of a ram'to that: of.a wether, though it needs longer boiling. . ‘Sheep’s Head, Baked.—Split the head in halves, take out the brains, and soak the’ head in lukewarm, water for an hour. Drain it, : put the halves together, and keep ther in’ position by tying string round them. ‘ Lay the: head in a dripping-tin, put raw potatoes pared © and cut into halves round it, lay little ‘pieces of butter here and there upon it; and bake in a moderate oven. Baste frequently, and turn the potatoes about that they’may be equally done. When done enough, serve the head on a dish, put the potatoes round it, pour the gravy in the pan over all, and serve as hot as possible. The brains and tongue may be served on a separate dish (see Sheep’s Brains and Tongue). Time to bake the head, about one hour and a SHE ( 856 ) SHE half. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. to 1s. 6d. Suf- ficient for two or three persons. Sheep’s Head, Baked, with Mashed Potatoes.—This is an inexpensive and whole- some dish. Clean the head thoroughly, and let it soak in lukewarm water for a couple of hours to get rid of the blood. Put it into a stewpan with a carrot, a turnip, two onions, and a leek, all cut into dice, and add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a sprig of marjoram, all tied together, a little pepper and salt, a small lump of sugar, and two ounces of pearl barley. Pour two quarts of water into the pan, and simmer all gently together for = couple of hours. Skim the liquor carefully, and stir the soup occasionally to keep the barley from burn- ing to the bottom of the pan. Take a pint- basinful of well-washed potatoes, and spread them on a dish in a small mound about two inches deep. Take up the head, drain it, place it upon the potatoes, and sprinkle over it two table-spoonfuls of nicely-seasoned bread-crumbs. Lay little pieces of butter or dripping here and there upon it, and bake in a quick oven till both the head and the potatoes are brightly browned. Take the bunch of herbs from the soup, skim it carefully, boil it up once more, atid serve in a tureen. Time to bake the head, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sheep’s Head Boiled with Vegeta- bles.—Clean the head, split it, take out the brains, and soak it in lukewarm water. Tie the halves together with string, put the head intoa saucepan, and pour over it as much cold water as will cover it. Bring this to the boil, skim carefully, and let all simmer gently together for an hour. Throw into the liquor two turnips, two carrots, two onions, two parsnips, a small bunch of parsley, and a little pepper and salt.. Mix four ounces of oatmeal smoothly with a little of the liquor, stir it into the rest, let it boil, then cover the saucepan closely, and simmer all gently together until done enough. Take up the head, and remove the tongue, which should be served with the brains on a separate dish (see Sheep’s Brains and Tongue). Put the head on a dish, place the vegetables round it, and serve hot. The broth may be used for soup. Time, about two hours and a half. Pro- bable cost, sheep’s head, 1s. 2d. to 1s. 6d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Sheep’s Head Broth (2 Scottish recipe). —Take a large fat young head anda “ gang” of trotters, all carefully singed. Wash and scrape them well, and let them soak in cold water for an hour or two. Take out the eyes, split the head into halves, and remove the brains. Shorten the jaw-bones where there is no flesh, and cut out the gristle inside the no8e. Prepare the trotters for dressing (see Sheep’s Trotters), wash and brush both head and feet once more, and leave them in water till wanted. Put the two halves of the head together, and tie a string round it to keep the brains and the tongue in their proper places. Lay it in a saucepan with a pound or two of the scrag end of a neck of mutton, a large cupful of barley, and about half a pint of dried peas which have been soaked in cold water. Pour over all a gallon of water, and add a little salt; boil the contents of the stew- pan very gently, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. When the head has boiled an hour, put in the trotters, and at the end of two hours add two carrots, two turnips, and two onions, all sliced together, with a few sticks of celery, if liked. Boil the head three hours or three hours and a half longer, and remember that the more slowly it is boiled the better will be broth, head, and soup. Serve the head on a dish with the trotters round it, and garnish with boiled carrots and turnips. Serve the soup in a tureen. Sometimes the brains are not put inside the head, but are thrown into the broth when it is. boiling, simmered for a quarter of an hour, and then served on. a separate dish, with brown sauce poured overthem. If the sheeps’ tongues are not wanted immediately, let them cool in the broth. When they are to be served, warm them up in the same, cut them in halves without ‘separating them, and lay them open on a dish. Send piquante sauce to table with them. Time, five to six hours to simmer the sheep’s head. ‘Probable cost, from 1s. 2d. to 1s. 6d. each. Sufficient, one head for two or three persons. Sheep’s Head Broth (an English recipe). —Skin the head, split it in halves, and remove the brains. Soak the head in water, and wash it. well. Put it into a stewpan with half a pound of pearl barley, pour a gallon of water over it, and let it simmer gently for an hour. Care- fully remove the scum as it rises. Throw ina small handful of salt, with two turnips, two: carrots, and two onions, and simmer all gently till the flesh of the head is tender. Lift it out, serve it on a dish, and garnish with turnips and carrots. Serve the soup separately in a tureen. If liked, the brains can be made into forcemeat-balls, fried, and served in the soup. To make these, clear the brains of fibre, throw them into boiling water, and boil them for ten. minutes. Pound them well with a spoonful of bread-crumbs, a spoonful of flour, a tea-spoonful of finely-shred parsley, a little grated lemon- peel, a slice of butter, and pepper and salt. Bind the mixture together with the yolks of two eggs, form it into small cakes, and fry these in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain them, and add them to the soup. Time, four hours and a half. Probable cost, sheep’s head, 1s. 2d. to 1s. 6d. Sufficient, one head for two or three persons. Sheep’s Head Curried.—Clean asheep’s head thoroughly, remove the brains, and boil till tender. Cut the meat from the bones, divide it into neat slices, skin the tongue, and slice it also. Put the pieces in a saucepan, moisten with the liquor in which the head was boiled, and cover the pan until the gravy is made. Mince two onions, and fry them in a little butter, stirring them briskly over the fire till they are soft. If the acid flavour is liked,a sour apple may be minced and fried with them. Mix a tea-spoonful of curry-powder and a tea- spoonful of curry-paste smoothly with a little milk, add three-quarters of a pint of the broth in which the head was boiled, and pour the liquor over the onions. Let them simmer a few minutes, then rub the whole through a SHE sieve. "Wash the brains, free them from fibre, tie them in muslin, and let them boil for a quarter of an hour. Beat them smoothly, mix with them a table-spoonful of flour and three table-spoonfuls of new milk, and stir them into the curry sauce. Stir thé mixture gently till it boils, strain it over the meat, add a little salt, and simmer the curry for a few minutes without letting it boil. Serve on a hot dish, and send rice boiled for curry to table with the sheep’s head. Time, three hours and a half. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for two or three persons. Sheep’s Head Fish.—A fish that goes under this name is plentiful in the latter part of summer on some parts of the coast of North America. It is highly esteemed for the table. Its weight is sometimes as much as fourteen or fifteen pounds. A very large fish is sometimes sold in New York fora price equal to four or five pounds sterling. Sheep’s Head for Invalids.— Wash and clean a sheep’s head thoroughly, split it in halves, take out the brains, soak it. in luke- ‘warm water for an hour or two, dry it, and put it into a stewpan with two pounds of lean beef. Pour three pints of cold water into the pan, and add a small turnip, half a lettuce or endive, a small lump of sugar, a spoonful of made mustard, and a little pepper and salt. Let all simmer gently together for two hours, carefully removing the scum as it rises. Cut the meat from the cheeks in neat pieces, small enough to be put into the mouth without being cut, lay these aside, and cover them to keep them moist. Put the bones and trimmings of the head back into the soup, and stir into it a table-spoonful of fine oatmeal which has been beaten to a smooth paste with a-cupful of cold “water. Simmer the soup for two hours longer, and strain it. Skim away the fat, put the pieces of meat back into the soup, and stir it over the fire till it is quite hot without boiling. A glassful of port may be thrown into the soup before serving. The tongue and the brains may be served separately. Time, four hours and a half. Probable cost, sheep’s head, 1s. 2d. to Is. 6d. Sufficient for about a pint and a half of soup. Sheep’s Head, Gallimawfried,—Split the head, remove the brains, and soak it in lukewarm water for an hour. Wash and soak the liver and heart, and cut the pipes out of the latter. Dry the meat thoroughly, put it into a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs and two large onions; cover with cold water, let the liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently for three hours. Take up the heart and liver, cut these into small pieces, and mince them finely. Put the mince into a saucepan, dredge flour thickly over it, and stir it well over the fire with a table-spoonful of any good store sauce, two table-spoonfuls of cream, a slice of fresh butter, a little pepper, salt, and grated lemon-rind, and as much of the liquor in which it was boiled as will moisten it. Put the head in the centre of a hot dish, lay the mince round it, and garnish with toasted sippets. The appearance of the dish will be ( 857) SHE improved if the head is egged, breaded, and browned bef.re being put on the dish. The brains and tongue may be served on a separate dish. Or the tongue may be servéd with the head, and thé brains may be cleaned, boiled in vinegar and water with a little salt, cut in slices, and placed between the halves of the head (see Sheep’s Brains and Tongue). If not objected to, part of the lights may be boiled and minced with the heart and liver. Time, three hours. Probable cost, 2s.10d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Sheep's Head, Hashed.— Wash the head, split it in halves, and soak it in luke- warm water. Clear the brains from fibre, and leave them in cold water till wanted. Put the head and the tongue into a saucepan with two onions and a bunch of sweet herbs, cover with cold water, let this boil, skim it, and draw the pan to the side of the fire that the head may simmer gently until doneenough. Take it up, cut it into neat slices, flour and pepper these, and put them into a clean saucepan with the two onions that were boiled with them finely minced. Mix.a dessert-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste with.a little cold. water, and stir into it half a pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled. Add a large spoonful of any good store sauce and salt and pepper if required. Pour the sauce over the slices of meat, add a spoonful of minced parsley and a spoonful of brown thickening, and let all simmer gently, without boiling, for half an hour. Serve the hash on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sippets. Tie the brains in muslin, and boil them for a quarter of an hour. Mince them, and beat them up with a table-spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley, half a cupful of milk, and half a cupful of the liquor in which the head was boiled. Boil them for a few minutes, thicken with flour and butter, and season with pepper and salt. Keep the tonguc hot until the last moment. Skin it, lay it in the centre of a dish, pour the brains round, and serve hot. Time, altogether, three hours and a half to four hours. Probable cost, sheep’s heads, 1s. 2d. to 1s. 6d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Sheep’s Head Pie (a breakfast or luncheon dish).—Scald, clean, and boil in the usual way a sheep’s head and a gang of trotters. Cut off the meat in neat pieces, and pack these closely in a pie-dish; season with pepper, salt, and finely-minced onion; lay little pieces of butter here and there upon them, and pour over them a little of the liquor in which the head and feet were boiled. Cover the dish with pastry, and bake the pie till it is done enough. Let it get cold, take off the crust, and serve it cut into thin slices like brawn. Garnish with parsley. Time to bake, one hour. Sheep’s Head Soup.—Take two sheep’s heads, wash, split, and soak them in lukewarm water, remove the brains, and put them into a stewpan with a bunch of sweet herbs, two carrots, a turnip, two onions, a leek, three or four sticks of celery, a small lump of sugar, a spoonful of mixed mustard, and a little pepper and salt. Pour two quarts of water over all, SHE ( 858 ) SHE bring the liquor tothe boil, skim it carefully, draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer gently for two hours. Wash the brains, eléar thém from ‘fibre; boil them for * a quarter of an hour, and beat them till smooth, and put with them a slice of fresh butter, two table-spoonfuls, of fine oatnieal, two table- | spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, and a tea- poonful of tarragon vinegar. Stir the mixture sito the soup, and, let it simmer again for two hours. Skin the tongues, and ‘cut them and the meat from the head into’ neat mouthfuls. Let them heat again in the soup, add a glassful of light wine, and serve. Time, four hours and aihalf,; Probable cost, sheep’s heads, 1s. 2d. to 1s. ‘6d. each, . Sufficient for ‘six or eight per- sons. ‘Shee s Head, Stuffed and Roasted. —Instea i of skinning the head, scald. .and scrape it till the wool is removed, then split: it . in halves. Take out the brains whole and the tongue, - Cleanse the former-from fibre, wash the latter well,’and -place both in a saucepan. Cover them with cold water mixed with a large spoonful of vinegar, and let them simmer gently for twenty minutes. Take out the eyes, cut away the gristle from the.nose, shorten the . jaw-bones where there is no flesh, and soak the head in lukewarm water. veal forcemeat, and add to it an onion finely shred and the tongue and brains minced. Bind the forcemeat together with yolk of egg, put it into the head, fasten the two halves securely with string, and roast before a clear fire. Baste liberally, and send brown sauce and red-currant jelly to table with the sheep's head. Time to roast, two hours. Probable cost, sheep’s heads, 1s. 2d. to 1s. 6d. each. _ Sut ficient for three persons. Sheep’s Head, Tongue, and Trot- ters, Puddings of.—The remains of sheep’s head, tongue, and trotters may be made into a pudding with’ suet crust, and boiled in the usual way. Two or three sliced walnuts may be put in with the meat. 7 Sheep’s Hearts.—Soak the. hearts in water, and wash them thoroughly. Cut away the pipes, and trim them neatly. Fill them with good veal forcemeat, and skewer thin Make a little good: slices of fat bacon round them. - Roast’ before - a clear fire, and baste-liberally.’ Thicken a quarter of a pint of stock with a tea-spoonful of ground rice, flayour the sauce with ketchup, season with pepper and salt, and add a glass of wine if liked: “Serve the hearts on a hot dish, pour the sauce overt them, and send red-currant jelly to table with them. The stuffing may be made with the ingredients in 'the following pro-* Shred a quarter of a pound of beef. portions. suet very finely.'\ Mix with it two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, a finely-minced shallot, a tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs, the hard- boiled yolk of an egg, and a little pepper, salt, and grated, nutmeg. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, moisten them with a tea-spoonful of Iemon-juice, and bind them together with the yolk of a rawegg. This quantity of stuffing will be sufficient for two hearts. If liked, the strips of bacon can be left off, and the hearts tied round with oiled paper, which should. be removed about twenty minutes before the heart is taken up, that it may brown. Time to roast the heart,’ about ‘three-quarters. of an hour. Probable cost, 10d. each. Sufficient, two hearts. for three persons. “= oa Sheep’s Hearts (another way).—Prepare a seasoning as for a duck, viz., onions, sage, bread-crumbs, , pepper, and salt. Take one heart, or more if required; fill well with the’ seasoning, and fasten up the aperture with a small iron skewer or needle and thread. Place two or three lumps of sugar, or a little brown sugar, in the bottom of a stewpan with a few drops of water; when this is dissolved. into, brown or burnt-looking .colouring, add a little -| more water, with a good-sized lump of butter ‘or dripping. Put.in the hearts, burning them till they are a rich brown; add enough stock to nearly cover them, with.a flavouring of a little. sauce, pepper, salt; and vinegar, which will give a piquancy. Stew slowly for two hours. Sheep’s Hearts (see Hearts, Sheep's). Sheep’s Hearts, Baked.—Prepare and , ‘stuff the hearts as for roasting, and skewer thin slices of fat bacon over them. ‘Put’ them with the broad end downwards in a dripping-tin, ‘sprinkle ‘a little pepper and salt over:'them, pour a pint of broth round them, and bake in a well-heated oven. Baste frequently. Take-up - the hearts, and keep them hot. Skim and strain the gravy, boil it quickly till it is reduced one- half, thicken with a spoonful of brown thicken-'' ing, and flavour ‘with store sauce.’ Place the hearts on a dish, strain the sauce over, and serve. Send red-currant jelly to table as an accom- paniment. If liked, an onion can be stewed in the gravy with the hearts. Time to bake, two hours. Probable cost, sheep’s hearts, 10d.each. . Sufficient, two hearts for three persons. ' Sheep’s Hearts, Baked (another way). —Stuff the hearts ‘as before, cover with bacon, put them into boiling water, and simmer gently . until dorie enough. Take them up,.lej them cool,‘ 'spritikle’ a little pepper and salt over. them, and cover each: one. with good: pastry. Brush them over ' with’ yolk iof egg, and sprinkle vermicelli loosely upon them. . Bake in a well-heated oven. When the pastry is done enough, serve the hearts ona ‘hot dish, and send brown gravy to’ table ‘ina turcen.’ Time to boil the hearts, about three-quarters of. an hour. Probable cost,’ 10d. each. Suf- ficient, two for three persons. ; Sheep’s Kidneys.—Unless sheep's kid- neys can be served quite hot they are not worth eating. Sheep’s Kidneys, Broiled.—Cut the idneys in half the long way. Skin them, score them a little, sprinkle salt and cayenne over them, dip them in clarified butter, and run a skewer through them to keep them from curling on the gridiron. Broil over a clear fire. Take out the skewers, and serve the kidneys on a.hot dish with the hollow part uppermost. Garnish the dish with parsley. Time to broil the kidneys, eight to twelve minutes, according to size. Probable cost, SHE (859 ) SHE: 4d.to 6d. each. Sufficient, three or four for a poy I ; dish (see Mutton Kidneys). C2 3 Sheep’s Kidneys, Broiled (auperior). —Broil the kidneysiag before. Lay ee on s dish with the hollow part uppermost, and put in the centre of each, a, tea-spoonful of savoury butter prepared as follows:-Put..two ounces of fresh butter into a plate, and work into it wath a silver or wooden spoon a dessert-spoon=. ful of finely-chopped parsley, half,a tea-spoon- ful of green onions chopped small, the juice of : hali a lemon, and a little pepper and ‘salt: Serve immediately.. If preferred, a tea-spoon- ful of tartar sauce (see: Tartar Sauce) -may be put into the hollow of:the kidney, and Harvey’s , or Worcester Sauce. may. be served with it. Time to broil the, kidneys, eight to twelve . minutes. Probable,cost, kidneys 4d. to 6d. each. Sheep’s Kidneys, Broiled (MM. Ude'’s. recipe).—Take some neys that have been kept for a while, cut,them in two, and remove the thin skin that covers them, use « small. skewer to keep them open, in imitation of two shells; powder them over with a little pepper and salt, dip them into a little melted: butter, and broil them just as you are going. to serve up. ‘Broil the side that you have cut, open: first; when you broil: the other side, the whole. of the gravy issues to the upper part. Mind when you take them off the fire that the gravy does not drop off. Have,some parsley chopped very fine and mixed with fresh butter, the Juice of a lemon, pepper, and salt ; puta little of , ‘and cut it in slices'the third of .an-inch. thick, that mixture over each kidney, and send up to table in a hot dish. ,_N.B.—Kidneys are . an excellent breakfast-for sportsmen, but are. seldom sent up for dinner. They must be eaten directly, as they lose their goodness by. waiting.. They have also the disadvantage of being uneatable if they are too much done; and | he who cannot eat meat underdone; should not have them at*his table. Sheep’s Kidneys, Stewed.—Skin and halve half a dozen sheep’s kidneys, and cut them into slides a quarter of an inch thick. . Fry these in butter: till they, are lightly browned, dredge a little flour over them, pour in aglassful of sherry, and add a tea-spoonful of | chopped parsley, a finely-minced shallot, three or four mushrooms chopped small, a tea-spoon- ful of lemon-juice, and a little pepper and salt. Stir the preparation over the fire for five or six minutes, and serve very hot. Time, twenty minutes. Probable cost, kidneys, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sheep’s Kidneys with Champagne. —Take six or twelve kidneys, according to the quantity that you wish..to dress; remove the skins, and mince then the thickness and size of a halfpenny ; haveoa little bit of lean bacon cut in small squares;: fry them in an omelet-pan with a very small bit of butter; when the bacon is of a gdod colour, put in the kidneys, taking care to move the pan frequently to fry them equally; when..they are done, strew: over them a little salt: amd pepper, some parsley chopped very fine, a very small bit of shallot, well chopped also, and, pour over all a little flour; stir up with a wooden spoon, then —~ mdisten with a glassful of: white champagne or chablis (neither madeira nor ‘sherry), which should be very hot, ‘but: do ‘not let it: boil, otherwise the kidneys will not: be,eatable; add a little lemon and a little cayenne, and observe that’ such dishes’ should’ bé “well ‘séasoned. ‘Serve 'thé kidneys ‘fitst' in the ‘dish with!’ ‘hollow spoon, and let the sauce have one boil ‘to cook the flour; mind that'the sauce be judi- \ciously thick to add:to' the meat, but not too thick, 8-2" as yee Sheep’s Liver (a la Francaise). — Cut some slices of liver half an inch thick, and lay ithem neatly in a stewpan slightly buttered; ‘sprinkle pepper‘and salt over! the upper sides. Slice two ‘ounces of fat ‘bacén ag finely as possible, chop a tea-spoonful of parsley and a small shallot very fine, and spréad'them evenly” over the liver; cover the stewpan closely, and | set: It:on a fire so moderate ‘that’ i¢ will draw’ out all the juices without simmering — the least approach to this hardens -the liver and spoils it. If the range is too hot, set the ‘stewpan on an iron stand. When the liver has thus stood for an hour and a half it will be done. Take it up, put it ond hot dish, and cover it closely whilst you boil’the bacon and the gravy together for two minutes: then pour ‘over the liver, and servé immediately. Liver ‘cooked in this manner is digestible, ‘and 'can be ‘eaten by persons who could not venture to do ‘so when it is fried. ' Sheep’s Liver, Fried.=-Soak the liver, ‘Dry each. slice thoroughly: witha soft doth, flour it well, and sprinkle pepper and salt with a little chopped parsley over it. Heat a little dripping in the frying-pan, put in the liver, and ‘fry it very gently till tender. Turn it ‘occasionally, that it'may be. equally: cooked. ‘When done enough, lift it: upon a hot dish, and pour off the fat from the frying-pan. . Mixa’ table-spoonful of flour smoothly with a. little cold water, add half a, pint of boiling stock or water, and pour the mixture ‘into the pan. Stir briskly till it boils,. and ‘add. a little rowning, a spoonful of store sauce, and a little pepper and salt. Let it boil a minute or two, then strain it over the liver in the dish. Serve very hot. If liked; a large onion may be sliced and fried with the liver and laid upon it'in the dish. ‘Timé, about half an hour. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound of liver for two or three persons. Sheep’s Mince.—Waesh and soak a sheep’s heart and liver. Cleanse them tho- roughly, plunge them into boiling water, and simmer gently about half an hour. Take them up, let.them cool, and mince finely. “Dissolve a small lump of butter in a saucepan, ‘work into . it a little flour to make a smooth, paste, stir it briskly over the fire until it is lightly browned, Mix with it as much of the liquor in which the iver and heart were boiled as will make sauce of the consistence of thick.cream. Add pepper and salt and a dessert-spoohfuli of ‘chopped onion. Put inthe mince, and:simmer all'gently together until done enough. Stir in a table- spoonful of mushroom ketchup or any good store sauce, and serve very hot. The remains SHE ( 860) SHE of sheep’s heart and liver may be served in this way. Time to simmer the mince, about half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sheep’s Tails.—Throw the tails into boiling water for fifteen minutes. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan with as much boiling stock as will cover them. Let the stock boil, skim carefully, and put into it a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three onions, a pinch of mixed spice, and a little pepper and salt. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the tails simmer gently for three or four hours. When done enough, drain and bone them, and press them between two dishes till cold. Let the gravy cool, remove the fat from the top, strain it, and boil it quickly till it is considerably reduced. Cut the ends off the tails, and simmer them in the reduced gravy till they are heated throughout. Dish them in a, circle, and put into the centre sorrel, or onion, or lentil, or haricot, or pease purée (see Purée), or brown cucumber sauce, and send brown gravy or tomato sauce to table with them. French cooks, instead of stewing the tails in stock, would braize them with slices of bacon, and equal quantities of mirepoix (see Mirepoix) and veal stock. Time to stew the tails, four hours, Probable cost uncertain, sheep’s tails being seldom sold. Sufficient, three or four for a dish. Sheep’s Tails and Kidneys.—Blanch, trim, and stew the tails, as before, in as much stock as will cover them, and stew with them a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a small bunch of sweet herbs. When the tails are done enough, take them up, and place them in a circle on a hot dish; put in the centre an equal number of broiled kidneys, and serve in a tureen a sauce prepared as follows:—Strain the gravy in which the tails were stewed, thicken with flour and butter, boil it till it is thick enough to coat the spoon, and stir into it the juice of half a lemon. Time, three or four hours to stew the tails. Sheep’s Tails, Broiled.—Blanch, stew, press, and trim the tailsas before. When quite cold, brush them over with oil or beaten egg, and dip them in bread-crumbs. Let them lie a few minutes, then egg and bread-crumb them again. Broil them over a clear fire, or fry them until they are brightly browned, dish them in a circle, and serve with ravigote or Valois sauce, or with a sauce made with the stock in which they were stewed, thickened with brown thickening, and flavoured with lemon-juice. Sheep’s tails and sheep’s tongues (an equal quantity of each) may be stewed and broiled together, The tongues will require to be skinned and split in halves. Time, four a to stew the tails, a few minutes to broil them. Sheep’s Tails with Purée of Green Peas.—Lay the tails in water to disgorge the blood; then blanch them, and braize them in an old braize; otherwise they are to be sea- soned with carrots, onions, spices, &c. When done, drain and glaze them. Put the purée of green peas under them ; do the same if you use purée of sorrel. Sheep’s Tails with Rice.—Put three or four sheep’s tails into boiling water, and let them boil for a quarter of an hour. Take them up, and lay them side by side in a stewpan, with slices of bacon under and over them. Put with them a sliced onion, a scraped carrot, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two cloves, and a dozen peppercorns; pour upon them as much stock as will barely cover them. Put the lid on the saucepan, and stew the tails very gently until done enough. Boil separately in nicely-flavoured stock a quarter of a pound of well-washed rice. Put half of this at the bottom of a dish, lay the tails upon it, and cover them with the other half. Strain the gravy, thicken with brown thickening, add a little salt if required, and send it to table ina tureen. Time to simmer the tails, four hours. Sheep’s Tongues (au Gratih).—Sheep’s tongues may be bought at the tripe shop either fresh or partially boiled. If fresh, they will need to be soaked in salt and water for a couple of hours, and then boiled for two hours. If partially boiled, they will not require to be boiled more than half or three-quarters of an hour, or they may be eaten cold. Boil three or four tongues in as much stock as will cover them, and add a bunch of sweet herbs, a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a little salt and pepper. When the skin will peel off, take them up and skin them. Make as much good veal forcemeat as will cover the bottom of the dish on which the tongues are to be served. Mix a little minced bacon with this, and moisten with the raw yolks of two eggs and a little of the hot liquor in which the tongues are boiled. Make it hot, spread it on a hot dish, drain off any particles of fat that may float on the surface, and lay the sheep’s tongues, boiled, skinned, and split in halves, on the forcemeat. Strain the gravy, pour a little of it over the tongues, and serve the rest ina tureen. Some- times the forcemeat is soaked in the liquor and rubbed through a hair sieve, and the tongues are gently stewed in the sauce for half an hour, then served on a hot dish with the sauce over and round them. Time to boil the tongues, two hours. Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Sheep’s Tongues (au Gratin). Another way.—Cut as many bits of bread in the shape of cock’s-combs as you have tongues. Take some fine forcemeat. Erect a little dome in the centre of the dish, and dress the tongues in the said forcemeat, leaving, how- ever, room enough between to place one of the toasts; then put the dish into the oven. When the forcemeat and tongues are done, take them out of the oven, and drain all the grease; they must be covered with bacon in order that they may not get dry (unless a mould may be pro- cured to close hermetically); then put the toasts, or croutons, fried of a fine brown colour, between each tongue, and the sauce with a thick essence. Mind that the tongues must be glazed and braized before with whatever sauce they were served. SHE ( 861 ) SHE Sheep’s Tongues, Broiled.— Soak three or four shesp’s tongues in brine for a eouple of hours, and boil them till the skin will peel off. Skin them, split them in halves lengthwise, put them into a stewpan, and pour over them as much stock as will barely cover them. Simmer with them an onion, a carrot, three or four heads of celery, a bunch of parsley, and a few mushrooms. Add pepper and salf if required. When they are quite tender (they will be so in about half an hour), take them up and drain them, boil the gravy quickly for » few minutes, brush the tongues with it, and sprinkle seasoned bread-crumbs thickly over them. Broil over a clear fire, and when one side is done turn them upon the other. Serve on a hot dish: mix the strained juice of half a lemon with the sauce, and pour it over the tongues. Time to broil the tongues, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sheep’s Tongues, Broiled (another way).—Soak four tongues in salt and water for two hours, and boil them gently in stock till the skin will peel off easily. Skin them, let them get cold, and split them in halves length- wise. Make a savoury mixture thus :—Chop six mushrooms, and mix with them three ounces of lean ham cut into dice, a salt-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, and a little salt and cayenne; a little piece of garlic may be added if liked. Sprinkle this mixture on the inside of the tongues, put them in their original position, cover with oiled papers, and broil over a gentle fire. If the papers are at all unsightly in appearance, remove them. If not, serve the tongues in the papers. Time to broil, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, tongues, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sheep’s Tongues, Cured.—Put fresh tongues intw a pickle such as is used for beef and ox-tongues, and let them remain for four days. Take them up, wash them, put them into boiling water, and simmer gently until done enough. Skin them, let them get cold, split them in halves without dividing them, and serve cold for breakfast. Mustard or tartar sauce may be served with them. If there is no beef pickle at hand, wash the tongues, and rub into each one a table-spoonful of galt, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and a tea- spoonful of vinegar. Turn and rub them with the pickle every day for four days, then pro- ceed as before. Time to boil the tongues, two hours. Probable cost, 4d.each. Sufficient, one tongue for one person. Sheep’s Tongues, Larded and Roasted.—Soak and boil four tongues as for broiling. Skin them, and lard the upper portion evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. ‘Wrap each tongue separately in a sheet of oiled paper, tie them to a spit, and roast them before a clear fire. "When done enough, arrange them on a hot dish, garnish with cut lemon, and send good brown gravy to table in a tureen. Time to roast the tongues, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient, three or four tongues for a dish. Sheep’s Tongues, Stewed.—Soak three sheep’s tongues in salt and water for two hours, boil them in stock till the skin will peel off easily, and skin them. Let them get cold, then cut them into slices the third of an inch thick. Take half a pint of thick brown sauce nicely seasoned and flavoured. Dip the slices into this, and arrange them in a circle on a dish. Sprinkle finely-grated bread-crambs thickly over them, pour a little oiled butter upon them, and brown them in the oven or before the fire. Pour the sauce into the centre of the circle, and garnish the dish with toasted sippets. If brown gravy is not at hand, it may be made as follows:—Put half a pint of stock made from bones into a saucepan with a mode- rate-sized onion or two shallots, a scraped carrot, a bunch of parsley, a clove, and three or four outer sticks of celery. Simmer all gently together for anhour. Strain the gravy, add pepper and salt if required, thicken it with a little brown thickening, stir a glass of port into it, and it will be ready for use. Time to boil the tongues, two hours. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sheep’s Tongues with Cabbage Lettuces.—The tongues are first of all to be braized. Take a dozen and a half of good cabbage-lettuces, wash them very clean, and blanch them. When they are cold, and you have squeezed all the water out of them, open them in two, take off the stalks, powder a little salt and pepper over them; then shut them, and give them a good form; place them in a stewpan, surrounded with layers of bacon; moisten them with a little braize, or anything to give them a good taste; otherwise take the pot-top, with a little broth and salt. When the lettuces are quite done, drain them, and squeeze them in a cloth to extract the grease. Dish them in rosettes, first a tongue, then a lettuce, and so on successively. Put a large tongue in the centre to improve the look of the rosette. Another time cut the tongues in two, and dish them miroton way—that is, one half of a tongue, and lettuce, alternately. In this case, put a jardiniére in the centre, and cover both the tongues and the lettuce with Spanish sauce. Sheep’s Tongues, with PUES —Take eight tongues of an equal size; let them disgorge in a little water and flour, and next blanch them. When thoroughly blanched, put them in a stewpan to braize. In case you should have a braize of beef, or of mutton, or any others, they will all equally answer the purpose for sheep’s tongues; when they are done, peel them, and cut them in two. Dish them miroton way, and cover with the sauce of the haricot, the turnips of course being put in the middle. It is customary in French cookery to call anything made with turnips haricot. Sheep’s Trotters, or Sheep's Feet. —Sheep’s trotters may generally be obtained at the tripe shops cleaned and partially boiled. When it is necessary to clean them at home, remove the wool from the hoofs, singe away SHE ( 862 ) SHE the .hairs, and put: the. trotters into boiling water for five minutes. Clean and scrape them well, and cut an inch off the end of the foot, including the. hoofs, and. carefully remove a dark curly-looking substance which grows between the divisions of the hoof. . Sheep’s trotters are usually sold in sets or gangs, they are wholesome and nourishing, and good jelly may be made from them. They should be kept soaking in cold water two or three hours before they are to be boiled. The liquor in which they are boiled will make excellent stock or jelly. ~ Sheep’s Trotters (see Mutton Trotters). Sheep’s Trotters (a la Poulette)—Take twelve feet, already scalded and cleaned. Boil them quickly for a quarter of an hour, then remove the large bone. from each by holding the foot in the left hand, and giving the bone a sharp. jerk with.the right. . Shred four ounces of suef, and put it into a. saucepan with | two sliced onions, a scraped carrot, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Stir these ingredients over a brisk fire for five minutes, then beat in two table-spoonfuls of flour, and when this is smooth add gradually five pints of water or stock. ‘Stir the liquor till it boils, put in the fect, and let them simmer till quite tender. | Take them up, and drain them ona sieve. Put four ounces of butter on a plate, and work smoothly into it with the point of a knife a tea-spoonful of flour, a téa-spoonful of salt,'a quarter of a tea-spoonful of pepper, and a little grated’ nutmeg. Heat a gill of milk in a saucepan. Stir the butter in this till it is melted, and add the yolks of two eggs which | have been beaten up' with a cupful of milk or’ cream. Stir the sauce over the fire, and as it thickens add a table-spoonful of strained lemon- juice. eggs are added. Heat the trotters in the sauce, put them on a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. Garnish the dish with fried sippets. If liked, a few mushrooms or a little chopped parsley can be put into the sauce. Time to boil the trotters, three hours and a half. _ Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. - = st: Sheep’s Trotters, Broiled.—Boil the trotters as before (see Sheep’s Trotters, 4 la Poulette). When tender, take out the bones, and let them get cold:. Cut them into neat slices, dip them in clarified butter, then into finely-grated bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear fire. Serve with sharp sauce. Time, three hours and a half to boil the trotters. Sheep’s Trotters, Jelly from.—Jelly tmade from sheep’s trotters is wholesome, nourishing, and inexpensive; it is particularly suited for invalids and children. Put four ““ gang” of sheep’s trotters into cold water, and let them soak for four hours. Cleanse per- fectly, and put them into a stewpan with a pound of lean beef, a crust of bread toasted all over to a bright brown, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a small onion, a blade of mace, and half », tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Pour upon them two quarts of cold water, and let the jiquor simmer gently by the side of the fire for It must on no account boil after the. six: or eight: hours, or- until-it'is considerably reduced, and will, stiffen when. cold. Pour it off, strain it through a'jelly-bag, and put it in a cool place to stiffen.. Time, eight hours. Sheep’s Trotters, Marinaded.—Boil a gang of trotters according to the directions already given (see Sheep’s Trotters, 4 Ja Poulette). Drain them, let them get cold, and cut them up into neat pieces convenient for serving. Put them into a basin, sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them, and pour upon them two table-spoonfuls of vinegar and one of oil. | Move them about, turn them occasionally, and let them lie in this marinade for an ‘hour. Half an hour before they are to be served, drain the pieces from the pickle, dip them separately in frying-batter, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly and equally browned all over. If preferred, instead of being dipped in batter and fried, they may be, rolled in bread-crumbs and grilled. Dish them on a napkin, and send tomato sauce or sauce piquant to table with them. The frying batter may be made as follows:—Put five ounces of flour into a bowl, and beat it up with a: pinch of, salt and a quarter of a pint of water. . Break two eggs, and separate the whites from the yolks. Beat the latter with two. table-spoonfuls of lucca oil, stir the mixture into the flour, and beat it till it is smooth and thick. Ten minutes before the batter is:wanted, whisk the whites of the eggs, and add them to it. It should be as thick as cream, . A-spoonfnl or two of water may Ibe added.if required. .This-batter is better if mado an hour or two-before it is. to-be used. .;Time to boil- the trotters, three hours, and a. half; to fry the pieces, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for a small dish. .. ie Sheep’s Trotters, P&té of—Take a coarse earthen paté-dish which has a closely- fitting cover. Procure three “gang” of sheep’s trotters already cleaned, and parboiled, and cut each one into three pieces,, Boil till tender, and pack them closely in the paté-dish, and, to season them, sprinkle between. the layers a little pepper, salt, and powdered. spice, to- gether with a moderate proportion of minced onion, chopped parsley, powdered thyme, bay- leaves, and cloves. Place the cover on the dish, and in order to prevent the escape of the steam, fasten it down with a coarse paste made of flour and water. Put the paté in a. gentle oven for five or six hours, or if it can be done let it be put in a baker’s oven after the bread is drawn, and remain there all night. If gently cooked the feet will be reduced to jelly, and will constitute an excellent dish, which may be served hot or cold. If the oven is too much heated, the feet will be burnt up, dry, and good for nothing. Time to bake, five or six hours. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Sheep’s Trotters, Simple way of Serving.—Stew the trotters gently for three or four hours till the bones will come out. They may, either be boiled in water, or in a sauce made according to the directions already given in Sheep’s Trotters a la Poulette. When tender drain them, let them get cold, cut them SHE ( 863 ) SHE in slices, and serve as they are on a dish. Garnish with parsley, and send oil and vinegar to table with them. Sheep’s Trotters, Stuffed. — Take some sheep's trotters, as in-the recipe Sheep’s Trotters, 4 la Poulette, and stew them in the same manner, but do not let them be overdone, as they are to be stuffed with a forcemeat, which could not be done in the latter case. Introduce forcemeat for quenelles in the room of thé bones. When the trotters are well stuffed, put them between layers of bacon, and moisten them with u poéle. Stew them for half an hour only; on account of the forcemeat. Drain them, and cover with a sauce well seasoned, either white or brown, according to taste. As they are to be served whole, when you bone them, mind you do not injure the skin, for they would not hold the forcemeat that you must put in. Observe that this dish is excellent, as well for the taste as for health. It is particularly good for weak stomachs. The sheep’s trotters are very good likewise, when they have been done as above, fried in the followiiig way :—When they are cold, add some of, the sauce to them all round; then dip them in crumbs of bread, and in an omelet and crumbs again; fry them of a good colour, and serve under tomato sauce. Sheep’s Trotters with Cucumber.— Take two “gang” of sheep’s trotters, and boil them till tender. Let them get cold, and divide each one into three pigees. Boil them again to make ‘them hot. .Take the skin off one large or two small cucumbers. . Cut it into dice, and put it into a basin with a table-spoonful of salt and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, Let it lie for an hour, drain it, and put it into a saucepan with two ounces of: fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, a bunch of parsley, two or three young onions, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a pinch of cayenne, and, if liked, a piece of gpttic the size of a pea. Simmer these ingredients very gently for about half an hour. Pour‘off the butter, and in its place put a spoonful or two of white sauce, or, failing this, of broth thickened with flour. Simmer a few minutes longer, add the yolks of three eggs beaten up with a quarter of a pint of milk or cream, and stir the sauce till it thickens, but on no account allow it to boil. Add a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, put the trotters on a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. Time to make the sauce, one hour. Suflicient for three or four persons. : Shell Fish, Buisson or Thicket of (a pretty supper dish)—Four lobsters, a pint of crayfish, and a pint of prawns are needed for this dish. Take a stale loaf of bread, trim away the crust, and cut the crumb to a square block. Hang a lobster. on each side of this, with the tail resting on the top of the block and the head in the dish; cover the empty spaces with parsley, and lay crayfish and prawns upon the parsley. Put prawns qnd parsley round the buisson, and fasten three or four crayfish on the top of it with silver skewers. , Shell-Fish, Hdible.—The chief of these is the oyster—full purticulars regarding which will bo found under the heading Oyster. It may be observed here that oysters are more diges- tible uncooked than cooked, and more palatable with lemon-juice than vinegar. Both humanity and good taste dictate that they should be eaten as quickly as possible after they are opened., The Scallop (Pecten maximus) is an edible shell-fish not to be despised. Broiled and stuffed with forcemeat, and served in its own shells, it not only forms an ornament to the table, but a pleasing variety among the fish. Every one knows the shell of this fish, which used to be worn on the hat or coat of pilgrims as a mark that they had crossed the sea for the purpose of paying their. devotions in the Holy Land. Scallops lie at the bottom of deep water in beds, from which they are dredged up. | The Mussel (Mytilus. edulis) is another of the mollusca that furnish a quota of,;food for the population.of these islands.. It is not often met with on the tables of the rich,- but. it- is to be seen in the London markets and in the streets where people partake of such luxuries on foot. It was estimated by Professor Forbes that no less than four hundred. thousand mus- sels were consumed..annually in Edinburgh. They are not so easily digested as oysters, and are generally cooked before being eaten... - At times the common mussel is. poisonous. This poisonous effect has been attributed to the presence of copper, and in some instances this metal has been detected in the fish which have caused symptoms of poisoning; :in-other cases; however, chemistry can give no further expla- nation of the catastrophe than that “ it is pro- bable that there is an animal poison present.” The symptoms produced by mussel-poisoning are described by Dr. Taylor as uneasiness and sense of weight at the pit of the stomach, numb- ness of the extremities,-heat. and constriction in the mouth and throat, thirst, cramps; or-with swelling of the eyelids, heat and itehing of the skin, with nettle-rash eruption; also vomiting and diarrhoea, with colic. Emetics, followed by sal volatile or stimulants, would be appro- priate treatment. ; Before using mussels, let them lie for some hours in cold water. Scatter in the watera table-spoonful of oatmeal; put them into a saucepan without water, and when the shells are well opened the mussels are done. Serve hot; eat with vinegar and pepper and bread and butter. ‘ A side-dish of mussels may be made in this way :—Remove the shells, fry the fish in butter mixed with chopped parsley, pepper, and salt. Serve with lemon and brown bread and ‘butter. ‘‘ Another bivalve,’ says Dr. Lancaster, “sometimes eaten by the inhabitants of our coasts is the Razor-Fish (Solen maximus). This creature would be interesting-enough to us if, it. were not eaten, on account of its long, slightly-curved, and truncated shells, which resemble the blade of a razor. It is not un- common on our sandy shores, where it lives buried in the sand. It is. not difficult to find, as above the spot into, which it has retired it leaves an impression of, two holes united, something like a keyhole. Itis, however, almost, SHE ( 864 ) SHE useless to attempt to dig them up, they back away from you so skilfully. After many vain éfforts to secure one of these creatures alive, I mentioned my failures to the late Professor Edward Forbes. ‘Oh,’ he said, with a wag- gish smile, ‘all you have to do is to put a little salt over their holes, and they will come out.? I remembered the story of putting salt on birds’ tails ; and although I resolved secretly to follow my friend’s plan, it was so simple I had not the courage to tell him that I would. I had, however, no sooner got to the seaside than I quietly stole to the pantry, and pocketed some salt, and then went alone at low tide to the sandy shore. As soon as I espied a hole I Jooked round, for I almost fancied I heard my friend chuckle over my shoulder; however, nobody was there, and down went a pinch of salt over the hole. What I now beheld almost staggered me. Was it the ghost of some razor-fish whose head I had chopped off in digging that now rose before me to arraign me for my malice, or was it a real live razor-fish that now raised its long shell at least half out of the sand? I grasped it, fully expecting it would vanish, but I found I had won my prize. It was a real solid specimen of the species Solen maximus that I had in my hand. I soon had a number of others, which were all carried home in triumph. Of course, there were more than were required for the purposes of science, and at the suggestion of a Scotch friend the animals not wanted were made into soup. When the soup was brought to table, our Scotch friend vowed it particularly fine, and ate a basinful with at least twenty razor-fish in it. One table- spoonful satisfied the ladies, whilst I and an English friend declared — against our con- sciences, I do verily believe—that we had never eaten anything so excellent. I counted the number of the creatures I was able to swallow; it amounted to exactly three. After a tumbler of whisky and water—taken, of course, medi- cinally—arrangements were made for a dredge in the morning. The Scotchman was up at five, but I and my English friend could not make our appearance. Nightmare and other symptoms of indigestion had fairly upset us, and unfitted us for anything so ticklish asa dredging excursion. Now,I do not wish to say anything against razor-fish as an article of diet, but, from what I have told, they would seem to possess an amount of resistance to the ordinary digestive activity of the stomach that would make it highly desirable to ensure, before taking them, such a digestion as a Highlander fresh from his mountain-wilds is known to possess.” Another favourite bivalve is the Cockle. This shell-fish is very abundant on most parts of our coast, especially where there is sand, and upon the banks of estuaries. It is highly esteemed both by rich and , and. by some is preferred to the oyster. It is equally good raw or cooked. It may be boiled or roasted, eaten alone, or as sauce to other fish. It may be eaten with im- punity in almost any numbers, and has not unfrequently staved off the pressure of starva- tion amongst the poor of our coasts. By culture it attains to an immense size. “‘One of our neglected edible shell-fish is the Limpet (Patella vulgaris). Tt is very abundant on all our coasts wherever there are rocks, and it can be easily procured by the aid of a strong knife. It is a tough morsel, but nutritious withal. The people of Ireland think it a delicacy, and a consitlerable consumption of limpets as articles of food occurs throughout the country. Next come Periwinkles (Littorina littoria), “ pinpatches,” as they are called on the coast of Suffolk. On the banks of somie of our estuaries they occur in myriads. They are looked upon as a poor man’s luxury, but may be recommended to the notice of everybody. They should be bought alive, boiled, and whilst hot the creatures should be picked out of the shell with a pin, and eaten with vinegar and pepper. They are digestible and nutritious, and by no means to be despised. The Clam is a great favourite in the United States.- The business of digging clams is en- gaged in by a large number of persons on the North-American coasts. There are two varie- ties —the hard-shelled and the soft-shelled. They are eaten largely in spring, when they are in the best condition. Clams are much prized by persons residing at a distance from the sea-coast, and they are frequently sent into the interior, where they meet with a ready sale, as they can be sold at a very low price. Sherbet is a favourite beverage in the East, universally used among wealthy Moham- medans, to whom the use of wine is forbidden by the Koran. It consists of water, the juice of lemon, orange, or other fruits, with sugar, flavoured further with honey, spices, and even perfumes. Its pleasant acidity blended with sweetness renders it well. calculated to assuage thirst in a warm climate. The poorer classes, who cannot afford to have it so rich, drink water prepared with a little sugar and fruit juice. In India this is carried about in goats’ skins for sale. Sherbet Cream.—Beat the yolks of three fresh eggs, and mix them with two pints of cream. Add a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water, or rose water, and stir the cream without ceasing over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken. Pour it out at once, sweeten, and stir it till cold. Freeze in the usual way. Time, about a quarter of an hour to boil the cream. Sufficient for two pints and a quarter. Sherbet for Punch.—The quality of punch depends in a great measure upon the way in which the sherbet is mixed. The different flavouring ingredients ought to be blended thoroughly before the spirit or wine is put in, and unless this is done the punch will lose in delicacy of flavour. The quantity of wine and spirit used will, of course, vary accord- ing to taste. Generally two lemons and half a pound of sugar will be sufficient for four quarts of punch. To make the sherbet, rub half a pound of fine sugar in lumps upon two large fresh lemons until all the yellow part is taken off. Remove the white bitter skin of the lemons, throw away the pips, and cut the pulp into slices with a silver knife. Put these upon the sugar, and bruise all well together with a wooden spoon. If the lemons are very acid, a SHE ( 865 ) SHE little of the juice may be set aside. When the pulp and sugar are well rubbed together, pour a little boiling water over them, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Let the syrup cool, strain it, and add wine and spirit till the punch is of the requisite strength. Sometimes the rind and juice of a Seville orange are used to make the sherbet as well as the two lemons. Sherbet, Ice.—Take half a pound of re- fined sugar in lumps; rub these upon the rind of three lemons until the yellow part is rubbed off. Put the sugar into a bowl, and strain over it the juice of two oranges and of the lemons. Add a pint of cold spring water, and stir the mixture until the sugar is quite dissolved. Freeze in the usual way, and serve in glasses. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for a pint anda half of ice. Sherbet, Lemon.—Rub one pound and a half of loaf sugar upon nine fresh lemons until the yellow part is taken off. Put the sugar into a bowl, squeeze upon it the juice of the lemons, and add a quart of water. Stir the liquor till the sugar is dissolved, strain, and freeze as for ice cream. Sherbet, Lemon (another way).—See Lemon Sherbet. Sherbet, Persian (see Persian Sherbet —a refreshing summer beverage). Sherbet Powder.—Rub half a pound of loaf sugar upon the rind of a lemon till the yellow part is taken off. Crush the sugar to powder, and mix intimately with it four ounces of tartaric acid and four ounces of bicarbonate of soda. Rub the mixture through a fine sieve; put it into a dry bottle, and keep it well corked until wanted. If liked, forty or fifty drops of essence of lemon may be used instead of the lemon-rind. The powder must be taken up with a dry tea-spoon. Sufficient for one pound of sherbet. A tea-spoonful of this powder stirred into a tumbler of water will make a refreshing summer drink. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per pound. Sherbet, Rich.—Grate the thin rinds of fresh lemons with lumps of loaf sugar, and press the juice and pulp out into a bowl, re- jecting the seeds. Crush the sugar, rubbing and blending the ingredients with a silver spoon. Then add calf’s-feet jelly, newly made, and madeira wine, with any spirit you please. Stir a long while, and after the sherbet has stood two or three hours, filter it until beauti- fully clear. Sherbet, Rhubarb (a pleasant summer beverage).—Take six or eight sticks of ripe red rhubarb. Wash it well, and without skinning it cut it up into short lengths. Put it into a saucepan with a quart of water, and let it boil till the flavour is extracted. Rub the rind of a fresh lemon upon three ounces of fine sugar in lumps. Stir this into the liquor until dissolved. Let the sherbet stand in a cool place five or six hours, filter through muslin, and it will be ready for use. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. 55 —N.E, Sherbet, Strawberry.—Pick . pound of ripe strawberries, and bruise them well in a bowl. Mix with them the strained juice of a lemon and a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, and pour upon them three pints of cold spring water. Let them soak for four hours. Powder a pound of white sugar, and put it into another bowl. Squeeze the strawberry liquor into this through muslin, and stir until the sugar is dissolved. Strain it again, and set it on ice till wanted. Serve in glasses. Time, four hours and a half. Probable cost of straw- berries, 4d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for a dozen persons. Sherbet, Turkish (a wholesome and refreshing beverage).—Boil two pounds of loaf sugar with a pint and a half of water to a clear syrup. Skim carefully, and pour it into a bowl. When cold, stir into it a pint and a half of strained lemon-juice and one quart of white veal stock, clear and strong. Serve in glasses. Sherry (see Wines). Sherry and Hops Cordial (see Hops and Sherry Cordial). Sherry, British (Robinson’s recipe).— Mix well eleven gallons of river water with thirty-five pounds of strong moist sugar, the whites of twelve eggs well beaten, and six pounds of honey, and boil them slowly, nearly two hours, skimming until the liquor is clear and bright. Pour it boiling hot upon a peck of the young shoots and buds of the sweetbriar, the thin peels of ten Seville oranges and their juice, and ten ounces of gum arabic. Stir it well half an hour, and when at the proper temperature work it with fresh yeast, and let it remain four or five days; then strain it into the cask upon two quarts of the pure juice of Lisbon grapes, ten ounces of sugar-candy broken small, and an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and beaten. fine. Keep the bung out as long as the fer- mentation continues, and the vessel completely filled, and when it is quiet take the scum off the surface, add three pints of French brandy, and stop it up safely for two years or more; then bottle it, and keep it eighteen months. longer, when it will be excellent. Sherry Cobbler.—Take half a tumblerful of ice rasped into fine shavings. Add two mode- rate-sized lumps of sugar which have been rubbed upon the yellow part of half a lemon, then crushed to powder, and two glassfuls of sherry. Stir all briskly together, or pass the mixture quickly from one glass to another, and driak the liquor through a straw or glass tube. When time is a consideration, the cobbler can be flavoured by mixing with the ice a quarter of a lemon, or a quarter of an orange cut into small pieces, and adding a spoonful of powdered sugar. By way of variety, a cupful of straw- berries or raspberries and a table-spoonful o! curacoa, may be substituted for the lemon. Sherry Cream (see Cream, Sherry), Sherry, Granito (see Granito Sherry). Sherry, Wholesomeness of. — This wine is free from the astringency of port, and SHI ( 866 ) SHO ‘generally agrees better with persons. of weak digestion. ‘To be good it should be free-from acid, or nearly so. : Shikaree Sauce, for Ducks and Wild Fow!l.—Mix a tea-spoonful of -cayenne with a table-spoonful of powdered white sugar. Put the mixture into a small saucepan, and pour over it two glassfuls of mushroom-ketchup; two glassfuls of claret; and the strained juice of a large fresh lemon.: Stir the liquor over the fire till the sugar is dissolved and it is quite hot. Serve-immediately. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Short Bread (see Bread, Short). Short Bread, Scotch.—No. 1. Mix two pounds of flour with four ounces of moist sugar, two ounces of candied citron, chopped small, and two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched and sliced. Rub one pound of butter into the flour, melt another half pound of butter, and with this work up the flour toa smooth paste. If a plainer cake is wanted, less butter may be used. Sometimes the whole of the butter is melted, and then the bread is more easily made. ‘Roll out the pastry to the thickness of an inch, and in a large oval shape, pinch the edges evenly, prick the surface with a fork or skewer, and sprinkle large comfits over the top. Cut the oval across, thus making two cakes, and place these on paper rubbed with flour, and. then upon tins. Bake in a moderate oven. When the bread is lightly browned, it is done enough. It should be remembered that the less the bread is kneaded the shorter it will be. No. 2. Rub three-quarters of a pound of fresh unsalted butter into half a pound of flour; add a quarter of a pound of ground rice, four table- spoonfuls of mojst sugar, two ounces of candied citron, finely minced, and an ounce of sweet almonds, blanched and chopped small. When these ingredients are thoroughly mixed, work the whole into a smooth paste with the yolks of two small eggs. Roll the pastry out to the thickness of half an inch, divide it into four squares, pinch the edges neatly, prick the sur- face with a “ dabber”’ or fork, sprinkle comfits and sliced citron on the top, and bake as above. Time to bake the bread, half to three-quarters of an hour. : s Short-bread, Scotch (another way).— Put two. pounds of butter in some warm place overnight where it will gradually become soft without at the same time melting. Take two quarterns of flour, and mix with it half a pound of loaf sugar in powder, and lemon-peel and blanched sweet almonds: (in quantities accord- ing to taste) cut very fine; add all these to the butter, and knead the whole till it appears like dough; then add a table-spoonful or two of yeast; again kmead it, and roll out into cakes of the proper size and thickness. Ornament the edges with candied-lemon and comtfits, Paes previously pricked the cakes with a Ork, RiGee i Se aT Short Cakes.— Ordinary short cakes are simply made of pastry, sweetened with sugar, rolled out to the thickness of three- quarters of an inch, cut into pieces of any con- venient size, baked, and served “hot; © These atu frequently. made’ in economical households ‘of pastry that-is left ‘after making pies and tarts. Superior'short cakes may be made as follows :— No. 1. Rub half a pownd of fresh butter into a pound of flour; add a pinch of salt, four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, a beaten egg, and as much milk as will make a smooth paste. Roll out the pastry to the thickness: of a, quarter of an inch, stamp it into fancy shapes, and bake these on tins till crisp and lightly coloured. No.2, Puta pint of flour into a basin, and.scoop a hollow place out of the centre. Dissolve a little more than: half a tea-spoonful of soda in a tea-spoonful of boiling water. Stir this into half a pint of thick sour milk, and beat it well with a pinch of salt and three ounces of creamed butter. Pour this mixture into the hollow, and stir it with the flour to form a smooth paste.- Rollit out on a floured board to the thickness of the third of an inch, stamp into fancy shapes, and bake ‘these on tins in‘a brisk oven. No. 3. Rub six ounces of fresh butter into a pound of ground rice; add a pinch of salt and as much cold water as will make a smooth paste. Roll this out, stamp it into cakes, and bake in a brisk oven. No, 4. Dis- solve half a pound of fresh buttef in a pint of milk. Stir in as much flour as will make a smooth, light paste. Roll this out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, cut it into large round cakes, and bake these in a frying- pan over a clear fire. Serve hot. A, pinch of salt should be mixed with the flour. Time, ten minutes to bake the small cakes. he Short Crust, a Substitute for Puff Paste.—When puff paste cannot be had, pastry made according to any of the following recipes may be used instead. It should be made in a cool place and should be handled very lightly. A moderately-heated oven will be required for baking it. No. 1. Rub three ounces of fresh butter into a pound of flour till it is as fine as possible; add a pinch of salt and two table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, and make a smooth paste with two eggs beaten up with milk or cream. Roll out thin. No. 2. Rub three ounces of butter into a pound of flour; adda pinch of salt and a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, and beat the whole to a smooth paste with a quarter of a pint of boiling cream. “No. 3. Rubeight ounces of butter into a pound. of flour, and add a pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and as much milk as will make a firm smooth paste. Ifa richer crust is required, ten ounces of butter may be used. (See also Paste, Short). Short Paste Cake.—Put a pound of fine flour into a basin; scoop out a hollow in the centre of it, and put into this ten ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a pint of water. Work all together with the fingers, and when necessary add another quarter of a pint of water. To make a smooth, firm paste, gather this together into a lump, and leave it in a cool place for a couple of hours. Roll it out to an oblong shape, an inch and a quarter thick. SHR ( 867 ) SHR Score the edges with. a knife, and mark if on the top, in any fanciful pattern. Brush over with beaten egg, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. .Sufficient for three or four persons, Shred Pie for Christmas.—Two cen- turies ago every well-to-do family partook of a shred pie, a most learned mixture of neats’ tongues, chickens, eggs, sugar, raisins, &c. This pie was made at the season of Christmas only, and no modern dish is similar to it. The following is a well-tried and much-approved recipe, which has been handed down in the same family for generations:—‘ A pound of suet chopped fine, a pound of raisins stoned, w pound of currants cleaned dry, « pound of apples chopped fine, two or three eggs, all- spice beat very fine, and sugar to taste, a little salt, and as much brandy or wine as you like.” A small piece of citron in each pie is an im- provement. Shrewsbury Buckwheat Cakes.— Mix .a tea-cupful of good brewer’s yeast with three pints of warm water; add half a tea- spoonful of salt, and stir in as much buckwheat meal as will make a thick batter. Cover the bowl, and set itin a warm place to rise. When it is so light that bubbles appear on the surface, butter a frying-pan and bake the cakes in it, like pancakes, over a clear fire. A ladleful of the batter will be sufficient for each cake. Butter the cakes while hot, and serve them piled high in the centre of a hot plate, each one with the right side up. The batter will need to rise three or four hours. Shrewsbury Cakes.—Sift one pound of powdered sugar into twe pounds of flour; adda grated nutmeg, or a little powdered cinnamon, and an ounce of caraway-seeds. Mix all tho- roughly, then beat in two eggs, the whites and yolks separately, and as much dissolved butter as will form a stiff paste. of butter will be enough. Roll the pastry out to the thickness of the eighth of an inch, cut it into round cakes, prick these, and bake. on floured tins in a quick oven. If liked, a few currants can be used instead of seeds. Time to bake the cakes, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Shrewsbury Cakes (another way).— Take one part of sifted sugar and three parts of flour, and to every pound of sugar add one grated nutmeg and three eggs. Mix well, and form these ingredients into a dough with melted butter and a little rose-water. Bake in the usual way. Shrewsbury Cakes (another. way).— Take two pounds of, flour, one pound powdered sugar, and half a pound of butter. Add to these ingredients four eggs, a little rose- water, and a quarter of a pint of cream. Beat them to a firm paste, roll the paste out thin, cut it into cakes, and bake in a quick oven. Shrewsb Cakes (another way.)— Mix half a.pound of butter, well beaten like a cream, and the same weight of flour, one egg, six ounces of beaten and sifted loaf sugar, and About eight ounces. half an ounce of caraway-seeds. Form these ingredients into a paste, roll out thin, and lay the cakes in sheets of tins. Bake in w slow oven. . Shrewsbury Cakes (another way).— Take one pound of flour, half a pound of butter, half a pound of Lisbon sugar, and two eggs, Mix these ingredients, and form them into a paste with-a glassful of white wine. Roll out then, and cut into cakes with a wine-glass. Shrimp.—tThere are several varieties of shrimps, and amongst these the best known are the brown shrimp and the red shrimp. The brown shrimp is the more highly flavoured. of the two. It keeps close to the shore, and even affects brackish waters. It is mostly caught by fishermen or women, who wade into - - the sea, and push a shrimp-net before them. The red shrimp, or rather the pale-pink shrimp, rarely attains to such a size as the brown shrimp does; it is slimmer in its proportions, and more delicate in flavour. It never enters brackish waters, but keeps well out to sea. It THE SHRIMP. is‘sometimes called the Yarmouth shrimp, from having been accidentally discovered in Great Yarmouth Roads by some boats employed in recovering lost anchors by a process called “sweeping.” Two boats, at a certain distance from each other, proceed up and down the Roads, having a loose rope suspended between them, at the middle of whichis fastened a large fish- basket or ‘“swill,” partly laden with ‘stones to sink it. By these means the place of the anchor at the bottom of the sea is ascertained, and it is then raised and brought to land. In particular states of the tide, it was found that the swill, when brought to the surface, was filled with an unusual species of shrimp. The hint was taken immediately, and the red shrimp fishery established. Shrimps form a common relish at the break- fast or tea table. When freshly boiled, they are excellent; stale, they are indigestible. Boiled shrimps which are clammy to the touch and exhale a pungent smell, are not fresh, and should be discarded as comparatively worthless. “Jt was once thought,’ says Dr. Doran, “that the prawn or shrimp was somehow necessary to the production of soles, acting, it was believed, as a sort of nurse or foster-parent to the spawn. But this I suppose to be about as true as that soles always swim in pairs, with three-pennyworth of shrimps behind them, ready for sauce.” Shrimp and Asparagus Sauce.— Take twenty-five asparagus, and cut them into short pieces; then boil them till tender in a SHR ( 868 ) SHR little weak broth. Boil half a pint of shrimps, separate the fish from the shells, pound the latter, and set them on the fire with a piece of butter for a few minutes. Then strain through a tamis. Add a spoonful of flour to the shrimp-butter, and thin it with the liquor in which the asparagus was boiled; set it on the fire with a little grated nutmeg, salt, and a piece of butter. When it boils, put in the shrimps and asparagus, give them a boil up, and serve with boiled fowl, fricassee of chicken or veal, &c. Lobsters may be dressed in the same way. Shrimp Butter, for Sauces, &c.—The shells of shrimps which are to be potted, or served in any other way, may be utilised for flavouring butter to be used for making fish sauce, and for garnishing dishes. The butter will not keep good more than a few hours. Put the shells of about two hundred and fifty shrimps in a mortar, pound them as finely as possible, and mix with them two ounces of butter. Put the mixture into a jar, set this in a pan of hot water, and let it remain for an hour. Press it through a cloth, and put it into cold water. Lift it from the liquor, drain it, and press it through:a silk sieve; work a slice of fresh butter in with it, and it will be ready for use. Shrimp Canapées.—Cut some slices of stale crumb of bread the third part of an inch thick. Stamp these out with a plain round or oval cutter about two inches in diameter, and fry the rounds in butter till they are lightly browned. Let them get cold, then spread a little shrimp butter upon them. Ornament them by placing picked shrimps upon them, and place them in a circle on a dish overlapping each other. Put a little parsley in the centre, and serve. Shrimp Cromesquis, or Kromeskies. —Divide some shelled shrimps into small pieces, put them into a clean saucepan, with a small portion of white sauce, the yolks of two or - three egge, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir the mixture over the fire for three or four minutes to set the eggs, then spread it an inch thick upon a plate, and leave it to get cold and stiff. Divide it into portions of an equal size, and form these to the shape of corks or balls. Boil half a pound of bacon for twenty minutes; let it get cold, then cut it into very thin slices of a size to cover the shrimp balls. Wrap the balls in the bacon, and, if not immediately wanted, leave them in a cool place. Dip them in frying batter, and fry them in hot iard till they are crisp. Drain them from the fat, and serve immediately. Garnish the dish with parsley. Shrimp ~Forcemeat. — Mix shelled shrimps with an equal quantity of grated bread-crumbs, and season the mixture with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Pound it in a mortar, soften with fresh butter, and bind together with yolk of egg. Forcemeat thus made is very excellent for filling any kind of oe fish, but is especially suited for pike and eel, Shrimp Patties, or Vol-au-Vents, or Bouchées.—Prepare the crusts of the patties, and bake them in the usual way. Pick the shrimps, and cut the tails in two pieces. Put the heads and shells into a saucepan, with a small quantity of water, and boil them gently for a quarter of an hour to extract the flavour. Thicken the liquor with arrowroot, egg yolks, or flour, till it is of the consistency of cream, and with this sauce moisten the shrimps’ tails a little. Season the ragéut with salt, if neces- sary, cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg or scraped horseradish, or two or three pounded anchovies; or leave it without seasoning. For many tastes the natural flavour of the shrimps will surpass all others. Take the patties or the vol-au-vent fresh from the oven, or if they are cold, heat them, then fill them with the pre- paration, after making it hot, without boiling it. A glasstul of white wine may be added if liked. Send the patties to table on a neatly- folded napkin. Sometimes shrimp patties are served with bread-crumbs sprinkled over them, and without the pastry covers. Time,a minute or two to heat the patties. Shrimp Pie.—Take as many shrimps as will almost fill the dish, pick them, and season with cayenne, pounded mace, a little salt, and vinegar or lemon pickle. A small propor- tion of essence of anchovies may be added, if liked. Butter « pie-dish rather thickly, and line the edges with puff paste. Put in the shrimps, pour over them a glassful of light wine and a small cupful of rich gravy, cover the dish with puff paste, and bake in a well-heated oven. For a maigre dish the gravy must be omitted. Time to bake a moderate-sized pie, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost of shrimps, 2d. to 4d. per pint. Shrimp Pie (another ay) Eick three pints of shrimps from the shells. Mix with them two or three anchovies, washed, boned, and shred very fine, some shred parsley, two ‘| chopped shallots, and a handful of very small bleached mushrooms. Butter well the, bottom of a pie-dish with good fresh butter, and put the shrimps into it, seasoning them with a little black pepper and some cayenne; if not salt enough add a little, making allowance, however, for the salt of the anchovies, for if too salt the pie will be worthless. Place over the shrimps several lumps of fresh butter, amounting in all to a quarter of a pound, also two hard-boiled eges, shelled and cut into quarters. Pour into the dish a good glassful of sherry, and also a good glassful of broth, in which has been pre- viously mixed a dessert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of soy. Put a good substantial crust over the pie, and bake in a quick oven. Shrimp Pudding (a Danish recipe).— This is made in the same way as spinach pud- ding (see Spinach Pudding), only instead of using spinach take a pint of picked shrimps. Chop the shrimps small before mixing them with the bread and eggs. This pudding is eaten with shrimp and asparagus sauce. Shrimp Pudding (for Breakfast or Lun- cheon).—Take freshly-boiled shrimps, shell SHR ( 869 ) SHR them, put them into a pie-dish, and season according to the directions given for Shrimps, Potted Whole, allowing an ounce and a half of butter for a pint of shrimps. Bake in a slow oven till the butter is melted; then let the shrimps get cold, mince them swith a sharp Imife, and pound them to a smooth paste with the butter in which they were baked. Press them into very small cups, and when wanted heat them in a gentle oven; turn them out upon a dish, and pour rich white sauce round them. If liked, the sauce can be coloured brightly with lobster coral. Shrimp Salad.—Shell a quart of freshly- boiled shrimps, and pile them in the centre of a dish. ‘ Boil three eggs hard, and mince the whites and yolks separately. Sprinkle the whites round the shrimps, place a single row of gTeen capers next, and then the chopped yolks. Surround the whole with lettuces cut into quarters and with water-cresses, and garnish the dish with gherkins and boiled beet-root, or little pieces of pickled red cabbage. Send salad sauce to table in a boat. : Shrimp Sandwich.—Put a layer of potted shrimps between two pieces of white bread and butter, and after pressing the sand- wich gently down, cut it with a sharp knife neatly round the edges. It is usual, before closing in, to spread a little made mustard over the meat. Shrimp Sauce, for Trout, Turbot, Soles, Salmon, &c.—No. 1. Work two ounces of butter—or more or less, accord- ing to taste—and a table-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste with a wooden spoon, Add a cupful of boiling water and a little pepper and grated nutmeg, and stir the sauce on the fire till it is on the point of boiling. Take it off the fire, add a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of cayenne, and salt to taste. Throw ina third of a pint of shrimps freed from the shells; let them heat three or four minutes on the fire in the sauce till they are tender, but on no account let them boil, as it will make them hard. Serve ina boat. If liked, an ounce of shrimp butter (see Shrimp Butter) may be dissolved in the sauce, or a tea- spoonful of anchovy essence may be added to it. No. 2. Take a cupful of melted butter, made partly of milk and partly of water. Stir into it a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of pounded mace, and a quarter of a pint of freshly picked shrimps. Let them heat over the fire for three or four minutes, without boiling, and serve imme- diately. A little cream makes a delicate addition. Time, three minutes to simmer the sauce. Probable cost, shrimps, 2d. to 4d. per pint. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Shrimp Sauce (M. Ude’s recipe).—Put into a stewpan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a tea-spoonful of flour, a small glassful of water, some salt and pepper, and a spoonful of the essence of anchovies; put this on the stove. As soon as the sauce is thick take it off, and put in the shrimps, after having washed them well. Never neglect to season sauces ; without sea- soning the best cookery is good for nothing. Shrimp Sauce (another way).—Take half a pint of shrimps, picked and washed very clean, and place them in a stewpan with a spoonful of anchovy sauce, and half a pint of melted butter. Simmer for five minutes, and squeeze in half a lemon. Shrimp Sauce (superior) —No. 1. Take a pint of shrimps which have been boiled in plain salt and water, without spice or flavour- ing of any kind. Pick them, and in doing so, throw the heads and shells into one dish and the flesh into another. Boil the heads and shells gently in two table-spoonfuls of water till the flavour is extracted. Strain the liquor through a sieve, let it stand to settle, then pour it off clear, and free from sediment. Make a breakfast-cupful of melted butter; stir the liquor into it and the shrimps, and shake the sauce over the fire for three or four minutes till the shrimps are hot and tender, but they must not boil, or they will be hard. No seasoning will be required, and the sauce will be sufficiently coloured without anchovy. No. 2. Take the third of a pint of picked shrimps. Pound half of them in a mortar till smooth, and mix with them half a cupful of thick cream, sweet and fresh. Work two ounces of fresh butter and a table-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste with a wooden spoon. Add a cupful of boiling water, and stir the sauce over the fire for seven. or eight minutes. Put in the shrimps, and when they are hot and tender, put in the cream, and serve immediately. Time to simmer, three or four minutes. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Probable cost, shrimps, 2d. to 4d. per pint. Shrimp Soup (see Eel Soup, Brown). Shrimp and Tomato Soup.—Boil a pint of shrimps in salted water, flavoured with a bunch of sweet herbs and a large slice of lemon. Drain, cool, and shell the fish, and preserve a quarter of a pint of the liquor in which they were boiled. Slice a dozen large ripe tomatoes, and stir them over the fire, with four sliced onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a slice of fresh butter, for three or four minutes. pint -of lemor-- juice to five pints of best Jamaica rum: With. each quart of ‘the mixture put one pound and a. half‘ of clarified loaf sugar. Strain, and bottle : for use. If liked, the ‘whole’ or part of ‘the - lemon-rind ‘can be ‘infused in ‘the ‘juice to- flavour it. ! a Shrub, White Currant,—Bruise the- currants, and put them on a sieve covered with . muslin, that the juice may run from them. Dis-- solye in each quart of juice half a pound of* ‘powdered loaf sugar; add a pint of rum, and botile.for use.. ; sige Shrub, Whisky.—Boil ‘four “pounds ‘of - Demerara sugar to clear syrup’ with: a pint‘ of © water. Skim’ ‘carefully, and: ‘let- it’ get ‘cold; ‘then ‘mix with’ it the strained’juice of four - pounds “of' lemons, one pound and a half of ‘Seville oranges, half a pint’ of ~porter, and'a gallon of whisky. ' Put it into a' jar, and shake: - it every day for a fortnight.’ Let’ it stand till . clear, strain it off, and bottle for use. Time, . a month to'clear the shrub. he ae Siberian Crabs, Preserved. — For~ preserving, the Siberian crabs should. be- ‘gathered Stone they are fully ripe, as’ their - fine acidity and agreeable texture are then: in perfection; when mellow, they are mealy~ and juiceless. Fill the jars with them in: order to judge what quantity will ‘suffice, put them into a saucepan ot boiling water, and barely scald them ; the moment one of the skins begins to crack; take them off the fire, pour them into a stone colander, peel them ;(this operation is easily performed, for the- peel will curl up:as fine, tough, and: thin-.agr:gold-beater’s-skin) ; then, having made a thin syrup, put the fruit into the jars and pour it-hot upon them, push down the apples-as they rise to the surface in order to insure their all coming in contact with SIB ( 872 ) sIC the syrup, and set them away uncovered. On the following day pour them all out into a colander, place the syrup in the saucepan with more sugar, so as to insure a thick syrup, boil and skim it, and again return it hot over the fruit; continue to keep the mouths of the jars open, and the next day, if they are soft enough, and the syrup appears sufficiently thick. and clear, tie them over with bladder. In a week, look at them, and if any mould or fermentation begin to show, reboil the syrup as before directed. For puddings and pies the Siberian crab cannot be excelled. These apples require neither peeling nor coring, and it used before they become mellow, are juicy and brisk in flavour; the core remains entire, and imparts a unique and most delicious flavour; they are less trouble also than most other fruits from their being dressed whole. Siberian Crabs, To Preserve Whole. —No. 1. Boil an inch of cinnamon, three or four cloves, and a small piece of whole ginger in a pint of water till it is pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, and make it into syrup by boiling with it for a quarter of an hour a pound of loaf sugar, and let it stand till cold. Put it into a pan, with a pint of Siberian crabs, which have been well wiped with a cloth and pricked with a needle about the stalks, and let all get hot together. Take the preparation off the fire, let it get cold, then heat it.again, and repeat this pro- cess three times. When the crabs look clear, lift them out, put them into jars, and pour the syrup over them. Put brandy papers over the top, and cover the fruit in the usual way. If more convenient, the syrup may be boiled on three successive days. No.2. Take the crabs with an inch or more of stalk, wash them well, and prick them in three or four places round the stalk. Put them into a pan, and pour upon them as much boiling water as will barely cover them. ‘When cold, drain them from the liquor, then boil the liquor with a pound of refined sugar to every pint. When it is thick and clear, pour it upon the crabs, and let them stand in a cool place for twenty-four hours. Put fruit and syrup into a pan, and make both scalding hot. Lift out the fruit, boil up the juice, and pour it upon the crabs. Repeat this process till the fruit looks clear, and be careful in these later boilings to let the syrup get quite cold before it is poured upon the fruit. Put the jam carefully into jars, and cover in the usual way. Time, five or six days. Probable cost, uncertain—Siberian crabs being seldom sold. Siberian Crabs Siberian). Sicilian Biscuits.—Pound half a stick of vanilla, and work it up thoroughly with six ounces of powdered ad sifted sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Put the mixture into a copper saucepan, and stir it briskly over a gentle fire until it is warm. Pour it out, and continue stirring until cold. Add five ounces of flour, and mix all thoroughly together. Fill a biscuit-forcer with the batter, and press it out in fancy shapes upon a baking-sheet. Cover the surface of the biscuits with finely- powdered sugar, and bake in a gentle oven. (see Crab Apples, Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour, Probable cost, 1s. 4d. per pound. Sicilian Sauce, for Fowls, Turkeys, &c.—Cut four ounces of lean ham into dice, and simmer gently in a quarter of a pint of water till it is reduced to half the quantity. Strain, stir it into a quarter of a pint of strong stock, then simmer it again with a slice of lemon-rind and pulp, together half an inch thick, half a tea-spoonful of coriander-seed, and a pinch of powdered mace. At the end of eight or ten minutes add a stick of celery, a pinch of cayenne, and a clove of garlic. If the flavour is objected to, the latter article can be omitted, and a shallot or a small onion sub- stituted for it. Simmer all gently together for twenty minutes. Thicken the sauce with flour and butter, add a glassful of light wine, and let the sauce boil till it coats the spoon. Time altogether, one hour and three-quarters. Suf- ficient for a good-sized fowl. Sick, Cooking for the.—On this subject we have extracted the following observations, which cannot be too widely read, from Miss Florence Nightingale’s “‘ Notes on Nursing :”— “TJ will mention one or two of the most common errors among those in charge of sick respecting sick diet. One is the belief that beef-tea is the most nourishing of all articles. Now just try and boil down a pound of beef into beef-tea; evaporate your beef-tea, and see what is left of your beef. You will find that there is barely a tea-spoonful of solid nourish- ment to half a pint of water in beef-tea. It is quite true that by mincing the beef and then stewing it you can get a larger quantity of solid in the liquor ; but then it is not beef-tea, and there are many patients who could not take it. There is a certain nourishing quality in beef-tea—we do not know what—as there is in tea; it may safely be given in almost any in- flammatory disease, but is little to be depended upon with the healthy or convalescent where much nourishment is required. Again, it is an ever-ready saw that an egg is equivalent to a pound of meat, whereas it is not sd at all. Also, it is seldom noticed with how many patients, particularly of nervous or bilious temperament, eggs disagree. All puddings made with eggs are distasteful to them in con- sequence. An egg whipped up with wine is often the only form in which they can take this kind of nourishment. Again, if the patient is able to eat meat, it is supposed that to give him meat is the only thing needful for his recovery: whereas scorbutic sores have been actually known to appear among sick persons living in the midst of plenty in England, which could be traced to no other source than this, viz., that the nurse, depending on meat alone, had allowed the patient to be without vegetables for a considerable time, these latter being so badly cooked that he always left them untouched. Arrowroot is another grand de- pendence of the nurse. To mix the patient's wine in, being, as it is, quickly prepared, it is all very well; but itis nothing but starch and water. Flour is both more nutritive, and less liable to ferment, and is preferable wherever it can be used. SIC (873 ) SIC ‘Again, milk and the preparations of milk are a most important articles of food for the sick. Butter is the lightest kind of animal fat, and though it wants some of the things which there are in milk, yet it is most valuable both in itself and in enabling the patient to eat more bread. Flour, oats, groats, rice, barley, and their kind, are, as we have already said, prefer- able in all their preparations to all the prepara- tions of arrowroot, sago, tapioca, and their kind. Cream, in many long chronic diseases, is quite irreplaceable by any other article what- ever. It seems to act in the same manner as ‘peef-tea, and to most people it is much easier of digestion than milk; in fact, it seldom dis- agrees. Cheese is not so usually digestible by the sick, but it has great nourishment in it; and I have seen sick, and not a few either, whose craving for cheese showed how much it was needed by them. “But if fresh milk is so valuable a food for the sick, the least change or sourness in it makes it of all articles, perhaps, the most in- jurious; diarrhoea is a common result of fresh milk allowed to become at all sour. The nurse, therefore, ought to exercise her utmost care in this. Buttermilk, « totally different thing, is often very useful, especially in fevers. “ Almost all patients in England, young and old, male and female, rich and poor, hospital and private, dislike sweet things; and while I have never kncwn a person take to sweets when he was ill who disliked them when he was well, I have known many fond of them when in health who in sickness would leave off every- thing sweet, even to sugar in tea; sweet pud- dings, sweet drinks are their aversion; the furred tongue almost always likes what is sharp or pungent. Scorbutic patients are an exception ; they often crave for sweetmeats and jams. : “Jelly is another article of diet in great favour with nurses and friends of the sick. Even if it could be eaten solid it would not nourish ; but it is simply the height of folly to take an eighth of an ounce of gelatine, and make it into a certain bulk by dissolving it in water, and then give it to the sick,' as if the mere bulk represented nourishment. It is now known that jelly does not nourish, that it hasa tendency to produce diarrhoea, and to trust to it to repair the waste of a diseased constitution is simply to starve the sick under pretence of feeding them. If one hundred spoonfuls of jelly were given in the course of the day, you would have given one spoonful of gelatine, which spoonful has no nutritive power what- ever. “Dr. Christian says ‘that every one will be struck with the readiness with which certain classes of patients will often take diluted meat- juice or beef tea repeatedly when they refuse all other kinds of food. This is particularly remarkable in cases of gastric fever, in which,’ he says, ‘little or nothing else besides beef tea or diluted meat-juice has been taken for weeks or even months, and yet a pint of beef tea contains scarcely a quarter of an ounce of anything but water” “ A small quantity of beef tea added to other articles of food makes them more nourishing. “Thereason why beef tea should benourishing and jelly not so to the sick is a secret yet un- discovered, but it clearly shows that observation of the sick is the only clue to the best dietary. ‘Again, the nourishing power of milk and of the preparations from milk is very much underrated; there is nearly as much nourish- ment in half a pint of milk as there is in a quarter of a pound of meat. But this is not the whole question, or nearly the whole. The main question is what the patient's stomach can derive nourishment from, and of this the patient's stomach is the sole judge. Chemistry cannot tell this. The patient’s stomach must be its own chemist. The diet which will keep the healthy man healthy will kill the sick one. The same beef which is most nutritive of all meat, and which nourishes the healthy man, is the least nourishing of all food to the sick man, whose half-dead stomach can assimilate no part of it, that is, make no food out of it. On a diet of beef tea, healthy men, on the other hand, speedily lose their strength. “I have known patients live for many months without touching bread, because they could not eat baker’s bread. These were country patients. Home-made bread or brown bread is an important article of diet for many patients. The use of aperients may be entirely superseded by it. Oat-cake is another. “To watch for the opinions, then, which the patient’s stomach gives, rather than to read books about foods, is the business of all those who have to settle what the patient is to eat— perhaps the most important thing to be pro- vided for him after the air he is to breathe. «A good deal too much against tea is said by wise people, and a great deal too much of tea is given to the sick by foolish people. When you see the natural and almost universal crav- ing in English sick for their tea, you cannot but feel that Nature knows what she is about. But a little tea or coffee restores them quite as much as a great deal; and a great deal of tea, and especially of coffee, impairs the little power of digestion they have. Yet a nurse, because she sees how one or two cups of tea or coffee restores her patient, thinks that three or four cups will do twice as much. This is not the case at all; it is, however, certain that there is nothing yet discovered which is a substitute to the English patient for his cup of tea; he can take it when he can take nothing else, and he often cannot take anything else if he has it not. I should be very glad if any of the abusers of tea would point out what to give to an English patient after a sleepless night instead of tea. If you give it at five or six o’clock in the morning, he may even sometimes fall asleep after it, and get perhaps his only two or three hours’ sleep during the twenty- four. At the same time, you never should give tea or coffee to the sick, as a rule, after five o’clock in the afternoon. Sleeplessness in the early night is from excitement generally, and is increased by tea or coffee; sleeplessness which continues to the early morning is from exhaustion often, and is relieved by tea. The only English patients I have ever known refuse tea, have been typhus cases, and the first sign of their getting better was their craving again SIC ( 874 ) SIC for tea. In general, the dry and dirty tongue always prefers tea to coffee, and will quite decline milk, unless with tea. Coffee is a better restorative than tea, but a greater im- pairer of the digestion. Let the patient’s taste decide. You will say that in cases of great thirst the patient’s craving decides that it will drink @ great deal of tea, and that you cannot help it. But in those cases be sure that the patient requires dilutents for quite other purposes than quenching the thirst; he wants a great deal of some drink, not only of tea, and the doctor will order what he is to have— barley-water or lemonade, or soda-water and milk, as the case may be. . “Tt is often recommended to persons about to go through great fatigue, either from the’ kind of work, or from their being not in a state fit for it, to eat a piece of bread before they’ go. I wish the recommenders would themselves try the experiment of taking a piece of bread instead of a cup of tea or coffee as a refresher. They would find it very poor comfort... When : men have to set out fasting on fatigue duty, when nurses have to go fasting in to, their patients, it is a hot restorative they want, and ought to have, before they go, and not a cold’ pit of bread and butter. If they can take a bit of bread with the hot cup of tea, so much the better, but not instead of it. The fact that there is more nourishment in bread than in almost anything else has probably induced the: mistake. That it is a mistake there is no doubt. ‘¢ Englishmen and women who have under- gone great fatigue, such as taking a long jour- ney without stopping, or sitting up for several nights in succession, almost always say that they can do it best upon a cup of tea, It is also the best refreshment before going out to a long day’s work. .§ ... om 4 Fh : “Cocoa ‘is often recommended to the sick instead of tea or coffee. But, independently of the fact that English sick very generally dis- | like cocoa, it has quite a different effect from tea or coffee... It is an oily, starchy nut, having no restorative power at all, but simply increasing | fat; it. is pare mockery of the sick, therefore, to call,it a substitute for tea. For any refresh- ment it is possessed of, you might just as well offer them chestnuts instead of tea. in the bulk of the food,and especially the drinks, they offer to their patients. Suppose a patient were ordered four ounces of Gely during the day; how is he to'take this if you make it into four pints by diluting it? The same with tea and, beef tea, with, arrowroot, milk, &c. You have not increased, the nourishment, you have not increased the renovating power of these articles by increasing their bulk—you have very likely diminished both by giving the patient’s digestion more to do, and most likely of all, the patient will leave half of what he has been. ordered. to take, because he cannot swallow the bulk with which you have been pleased to invest it. It requires very. nice observation and care (and meets with hardly any) to determine what will be too thick: or strong for the patient to take, while giving him no more than the bulk which he is able to swallow.” Various recipes for INvALID ‘CooxEry will be found in our pages under their respective headings; but, for convenience sake, we have added to these remarks of Miss ‘Nightingale a collection of recipes drawn, for the most part, from the “ Medical Guide’’ of Dr. Reece and the well-known cookery-book of Mrs. Rundell :— Apple Water.—Cut two large apples into slices, and pour a’ quart’ of boiling water on them, or on roasted apples; strain in two or three hours, and sweeten slightly. ‘Arrowroot Jelly.—Put into a saucepan half a pint of water, a glassful of sherry or a spoonful of brandy, grated nutmeg, and fine sugar; boil once up, then mix it by degrees into a des- sert-spoonful of arrowroot previously rubbed ‘smooth with two spoonfuls of cold water; then ‘return the whole into the saucepan, stir and boil it three minutes. : “ Arrowroot Pudding.—Take a table-spoonful of arrowroot and half a pint of milk, a table-spoon- ful of which add cold to the arrowroot, stirring it till it is well mixed, then boil the remainder ‘of the half-pint of milk, sweeten to taste with loaf sugar, and while it is boiling hot, add it by degrees to the arrowroot, then boil the whole (stirring it all the time) till it becomes thickened, and have ready the yolks and whites of six eggs beaten togéther, which stir into it. Put all into a buttered basin, and cover with paper. Then steam it for half an hour. A pudding may’ be made in the same way, and baked in a dish with a light crust round, and flavoured with any approved ingredient. - Barley Gruel—Wash four ounces of pearl- barley, boil it in’ two quarts of water with a stick of cinnamon till reduced to a quart; strain, and return it to the saucepan with sugar and three-quarters of a pint of port wine. Heat up, and use as wanted. = - Barley Water.—Wash a handful of common barley, then simmer it gently in three pints of water with a bit of lemon-peel. This is less apt to nauseate than the pearl barley. of the following recipe ; but thé other is a very pleasant drink. ek Barléy Water (another way).—Boil an ounce of pearl barley a few minutes to cleanse, then put on it.a quart of water; simmer an hour; v | when half done put into.it a bit of fresh lemon- .-“ An almost universal error among: nurses is | peel and one bit of sugar., Jf likely to be too thick, you may put another quarter of a pint of water. | Aarne a Beef, Mutton, and Veal Broth. — Put two pounds of lean beef, one pound of scrag of veal, one pound of scrag of mutton, sweet herbs, and ten peppercorns, into a nice tin saucepan with five quarts of water; simmer to three quarts; and clear from the fat when cold. Add one onion if approved. Soup and broth made of different kinds of meats are more supporting .as well as better flavoured. To remove the. fat, take. it off when cold as clean as possible; and if there be still any remaining, lay a bit of clean blot- ting-paper or cap-paper on the broth when in the basin, and it will take up every particle. Beef Tea.—Cut in small pieces two pounds weight of fresh lean beef; add three pints of cold water; when on the eve of boiling, care- fully remove the scum; the moment it boils add a pint of cold water; then let it boil up SIC ( 875 ) sIC ‘again, and remove the scum as before. If by this time it is not perfectly clear, the same quantity of water may be added a second time, which will cause more scum to rise. The same remarks apply to all other broths and gravies, which will always be transparent and finely flavoured if the same rule be observed. Beef tea should be allowed to simmer not less than three-quarters of an hour, and not more than one hour, from the time it is last skimmed. Bread Pudding, Light.—Pour some boiling-hot milk on a few thin slices of white bread or the crumb of French rolls; when cold beat up one whole egg and the yolks of two others, mix them well with the bread, adding a small por- tion of grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, and as much white powdered sugar as will make it palatable. A few picked currants may be sometimes added. Putthe preparation into a pudding-basin slightly rubbed over with butter, and cover the top with a piece of buttered paper; then place the basin in a saucepan containing boiling water, and let the pudding steam for half an hour or more, according to its size. . : Broth, Clear.—The following is a clear broth that will keep long. Put the mouse round of beef, a knuckle-bone of veal, and a few shanks of mutton into a deep pan, and cover close with a dish or coarse crust; bake till the beef is done enough for eating with only as much water as will cover. When cold, cover it close in a cool place. When to be used give what flavour may be approved. Broth for Invalids—This may be made in the same way as restorative meat Jelly (see Meat Jelly, Restorative), with an ‘old fowl cut in pieces with its own weight in gravy beef. It must only, however, be allowed to simmer two hours. ‘ Broth, Quickly; Made.—Take a bone or two of a neck or loin of mutton, and take off the fat and skin, set it on’ the fire in a small tin saucepan that has a cover with three-quarters of a’ pint of water, the meat being first beaten and cut in thin bits; puta bit of thyme and parsley, and, if approved, a slice of onion. Let it boil very quickly, skim it nicely; take off the cover if likely to be too weak, else cover it. Half an hour is sufficient for the whole process. » Calves’-Feet Broth.—Boil two feet in three quarts of water to half; strain, and set it by. ‘When to be used take off the fat, put a large tea-cupful of the jelly into a saucepan with half a glassful of sweet wine, a little sugar and nutmeg, and beat it up.till it is ready to boil; then take a little of it, and beat by degrees to the yolk of an egg, and adding a bit of butter the size of a nutmeg, stir it all together, but do not let it boil. Grate a bit of fresh lemon into it. Calves’-Feet Broth (another way).—Boil two calves’ feet, two ounces each of veal and beef, the bottom of a penny loaf, two or three Dlades of mace, half a nutmeg sliced, and a little salt in three quarts of water to three pints; strain, and take off the fat. / . Calves’ Feet Jelly.—Boiltwo calves’ feet in four quarts of water for five hours, then strain the liquor through a hair sieve, and the next day take ‘off all the fat. Whisk the whites and shells of three eggs in a stewpan, then put in the jelly, and add a small piece of cinnamon, the thin peel of two lemons and the juice of three, with about six or seven ounces of loaf sugar. Put the stewpan on a brisk fire, and whisk its contents till on the eve of boiling, then remove the stewpan, cover it closely, and let it remain near the fire for fifteen minutes, taking care not to allow the jelly to boil. _ Pass it through the bag in the usual way. If wine be used, it will be better to add it the moment before the jelly is passed through the bag. Caudle.—Make a fine smooth gruel of half- grits; strain it’ when boiled well, stir it at times till cold. When to be used add sugar, wine, and lemon-peel, with nutmeg. Some like a spoonful of brandy besides the wino; others like lemon-juice. Caudle (another way).—Boil up half a pint of fine gruel with a bit of butter the size of a large nutmeg, a large spoonful of brandy, the same of white wine, one of capillaire, a: bit of lemon-peel and nutmeg. ‘Caudle (another way).—Into a pint of fine gruel, not thick, put, while it is boiling hot, the yolk of an egg beaten with sugar and mixed with a large spoonful of cold water, a glassful of wine, and nutmeg. Mix by degrees. This is very agreeable and nourishing. - Chicken Broth and Veal. Broth—These. are prepared in the same way: as beef tea, and may be made. of any strength -desixed by adding more or less water. Chicken and veal broth. da. not require so much skimming as beef tea. Chicken Broth.—Put the body and legs of the fowl that chicken-panada was made of, after taking off the skin and rump, into the. water it was boiled in with one blade of mace, one slice of onion, and ten peppercorns. Simmer till the broth be of a pleasant flavour... If there is not water enough, add a little, Beat a quarter of an ounce of sweet almonds with a tea-spoonful of water, fine, boil it in the broth, strain, and when cold remove the fat. : sn hdetAe ett Chicken, Minced.—Take the- breast ofa, cold roast chicken, and mince it finely. Add halfa tea-spoonful of fine flour, together with five or six table-spoonfuls of broth. Seagon with a pinch of salt.. If broth is not at hand, sub- stitute new milk. Ps Chicken or Fowl, To Extract the Essence of.— Proceed in the same way as in the recipe Veal, To Extract the Essence of, taking care to chop the bones in pieces, and lay them in the bottom of the’jar, placing the meat on the top of them. Take care that tho water in the saucepan does not get into the jar when, boiling. cheba “The pure essence of meat thus extracted is jnvaluable for weak stomachs and whore con- siderable nutriment is required in a concentrated. form. It is also light, and easy of digestion, compared with more glutinous preparations. A single table-spoonful of the essence can be taken by an invalid, and would afford as much sustenance as a quarter-pint of broth.” Chicken Panada.—Take the breast of a cold chicken, and pound it in a mortar toa very fine paste, then put it into a small stewpan, and add to it, gradually, as much boiling-hot broth as will make it of the required consistency. Scason. with a little salt. Place the stewpan on the fire, stir the contents, but do not let them boil. SIC ( 876 ) SIC Chicken Panada.—Boil the chicken till about three parts ready, in a quart of water, take off the skin, cut the white meat off when cold, and put it intoa marble mortar; pound it to a paste with a little of the water it was boiled in. Season with a little salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the least bit of lemon-peel. Boil gently for a few minutes to the consistency liked; it should be such as can be drunk, although tolerably thick. Chicken with Sauce.—Prepare the chicken as in the recipe Chicken with Sippets. Serve it up with a delicate sauce made by stirring the yolks of two fresh eggs with a spoonful of water, and then adding them to the gravy of the chicken while hot, but which must not be allowed to boil. Chicken dressed in this way forms an agreeable repast for an invalid, and is very light for the stomach, and easy of digestion. : Chicken with Sippets——Take a small chicken trussed for boiling, and let it soak in » pan of cold water for half an hour. Put it into a small stewpan just large enough to hold it; put in half a pint of cold water, and when it boils cover the saucepan closely, and let it simmer very gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes, according to its size. Dish up the chickens in a very hot covered dish, put half a dozen sippets of bread round the bottom, and then strain the broth from the chicken through a fine lawn sieve into the dish, taking care to prevent any fat passing through. -Add a little salt, if ap- proved. Eel Broth.—Clean half a pound of small eels, and set them on with three pints of water, some parsley, one slice of onion, a few peppercorns; let them simmer till the eels are broken and the broth good; add salt, and strain it off. The above ‘should make three half-pints of broth. Egg Wine.—Beat an egg, mix with it a spoonful of cold water. Set on the fire a glassful of white wine, half a glassful of water, sugar, and nutmeg; when it boils, pour off a little of it to the egg by degrees, till the whole be in, stirring it well; then return the whole into the saucepan, put it on a gentle fire, stir it one way for not more than a minute; for if it boils, or the egg be stale, it will curdle. Serve with toast. Egg wine may be made as above without warming the egg, and it is then lighter on the stomach, though not so pleasant to the taste. Eggs.—An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and mixed with a basin of milk, makes a breakfast more supporting than tea solely. An egg divided, and the yolk and white beaten Separately, then mixed with a glassful of wine, will afford two very wholesome draughts, and prove lighter than when taken together. Gloucester Jelly, —Take rice, sago, pearl barley, hartshorn shavings, and eringo-root, each an ounce; simmer with three pints of water to one, and strain it. When cold it will be a jelly; which give, dissolved in wine, milk, or broth, in change with other nourish- ment. Isinglass Jelly —Put one ounce of isinglass into a stewpan with a pint of cold water, the thin rind of a fresh lemon, and four ounces of loaf sugar ; the half of the white of an egg beaten on a plate may be added. Put the stewpan on the fire, and occasionally stir its contents. The moment they boil place the stewpan at the corner of the fire, and let the jelly simmer very gently for fifteen minutes; then strain through a fine lawn sieve. This jelly may be flavoured with lemon-juice, maraschino, or noyeau. Lemonade. —Peel the thin rind of one or two fresh lemons without any of the white part; put the peel into a jug, and pour over it a pint of boiling water; add four ounces of loaf sugar, and cover the jug closely to keep in the steam. Let it stand till cold, and then add the juice of the lemons; strain through a fine piece of muslin into a clean jug or decanter. Lemon-Water.— Put two slices of lemon thinly pared into a tea-pot, a little bit of the peel, and a bit of sugar, or a large spoonful of capillaire ; pour in a pint of boiling water, and stop it closely for two hours. Light Puddings of Vermicelli, Semolina, Tapioca, Rice, Ground Rice, §c.—Whatever sub- stance is used, it must first be boiled tender in milk, then proceeded with as for the other puddings (see Bread Pudding, Light, &c.), always taking care that the substance employed is of a thick consistence before the eggs, &c., are added. All light puddings, either of bread, sponge cake, vermicelli, &c., may be flavoured in various ways by using vanilla, orange- flowers, cinnamon, almond, or any other ap- proved flavours. Macaroni with Broth.—Take a small quantity of real Italian macaroni, and boil it in water till it is just tender. Drain the water off on a hair sieve, then put the macaroni into a stewpan with some of the broth, and let it simmer for five or six minutes; season with a little salt, if preferred. ° Meat Jelly, Restorative-—Take two or three pounds of the knuckle of veal, the same weight of fresh-killed gravy beef, and one calf’s foot, cut the meat from the bones, and chop them in pieces; lay them in the bottom of a etewpan, and put the meat on the top of them; then add as much cold water as will rise two or three inches above the meat; let the whole simmer gently for four hours, taking great care to remove every particle of scum as it rises in the first boiling. Strain through a fine hair sieve, and the next morning the whole of the fat can be taken off. ; Mutton Broth.—This is best made with the scrag-ends of the necks chopped in pieces, then well washed and soaked in warm water to draw out the-blood, and allowed to simmer for two hours. Mutton Broth (another way).—This is a very | supporting broth against any kind of weakness. Boil two pounds of loin of mutton, with a very large handful of chervil, in two quarts of water to one. Take off part of the fat. Any other herbs or roots may be added. ‘Take half’a pint four times a day. Orange Jelly.— Use only half a pint of water to one ounce of isinglass, and proceed as in the recipe Isinglass Jelly. Then rub the rinds of one lemon and of two oranges on a piece of loaf sugar, which must be scraped off into a basin. sIc ( 877) SIL in which the juice of the lemon and the juice of five or six oranges must be squeezed. ‘Then add the melted isinglass, and mix well together. Strain through a fine sieve. Orangeade.—Take the thin peel of two oranges and of one lemon; add the water and sugar the same as for lemonade; when cold, add the juice of one lemon and of four or five oranges, and strain off. : Orgeat.—Beat two ounces of almonds with a tea-spoonful of orange-flower water and a bitter almond or two; then pour a quart of milk and water to the paste. Sweeten with sugar or capillaire. Panada (made in five minutes).—Set a little water on the fire with a glassful of white wine, some sugar, and a scrape of nutmeg and lemon-. peel; meanwhile grate some crumbs of bread. The moment the mixture boils up, keep it still on the fire, put the crumbs in, and let it boil as jast as it can. When of a proper thickness to drink, take it off. Pork Jelly, Dr. Ratclif’s Restoratiwe.—Take aleg of well-fed pork just as cut up, beat it, and break the bone. Set it over a gentle fire with three gallons of water, and simmer to one. Let half an ounce each of mace and nutmeg stew in it. Strain through a fine sieve. When cold, take off the fat. Give a chocolate-cupful the first and last thing and at noon, adding salt to taste. Shank Jelly.—Soak twelve shanks of mutton four hours, then brush and scour them very clean. Lay them in a saucepan with three blades of mace, an onion, twenty Jamaica and thirty or forty black peppers, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a crust of bread made very brown by toasting. Pour three quarts of water to them, and set them on a hot hearth close-covered ; let them simmer as gently as possible for five hours, then strain it off, and put it in a cold place. This may have the addition of 1 pound of beef, if approved, for flavourmg. It is a remarkably good thing for people who are weak. Sippets.—On an extremely hot plate put two or three sippets of bread, and pour over them some gravy from beef, mutton, or veal, if there is no butter in the dish. Sprinkle a little salt over. Sponge-Cake Pudding.—Pour boiling milk on six penny sponge cakes, and follow the same directions as for the bread pudding (see Bread Pudding, Light), sometimes adding a few mus- catel raisins. Half a wine-glassful of sherry, or a table-spoonful of good brandy may also be added, if approved. Tapioca Jelly.—Choose the largest sort, pour cold water on to wash it two or three times, then soak it in fresh water five or six hours, and simmer it in the same until it becomes quite clear; then put lemon-juice, wine, and sugar. The peel should have been boiled in it. It thickens very much. Tench Broth—Make in the same way as eel broth. They are both very nutritious and light of digestion. ae Toast and Water.—Toast slowly a thin piece of bread till extremely brown and hard, but not the least black ; then plunge it into a jugful of cold water, and cover it over an hour before using. It should be of a fine brown colour before drinking it. Veal Broth (very nourishing).—Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal with very little meat to it, an old fowl, and four shank- bones of mutton extremely well soaked and bruised, three blades of mace, ten peppercorns, an onion, a large bit of bread, and three quarts of water into a stewpot that covers close, and simmer in the slowest manner after it has boiled up and been skimmed; or bake it; strain, and take off the fat. Salt as wanted. It will require four hours. Veal, To Extract the Essence of—Take two pounds of the lean part of the leg of veal, and cut it in pieces, without any of the fat. Wash the meat in cold water, and put it in a white glazed jar or stone jar just large enough to hold the pieces. Add only two table-spoonfuls of water. Cover the jar down closely, and lay it in w saucepan containing boiling water, which must continue to boil on a slow fire for two hours. At the end of that time all the juice or gravy will be extracted, and may be strained off for use. Vermicelli, Italian Paste, and Rice.—These are all to be prepared in the same way as ma- caroni (see Macaroni with Broth). In this way light and nutritious diet will be furnished for an invalid, which will often be retained on the stomach when a more solid substance would be rejected. Water Gruel.—Put a large spoonful of oat- meal by degrees into a pint of water, and when smooth boil it. Water-Gruel (another way).—Rub smooth a. large spoonful of oatmeal with two of water, and pour it into a pint of water boiling on the fire; stir it well, and boil quickly, but take care that it does not boil over. In a quarter of an hour strain it off, and add salt and a bit. of butter when eaten. Stir until the butter be incorporated. Whey.—That of cheese is a very wholesome driak, especially when the cows are in fresh herbage. White Broths with Vermicelli_Light and delicate white broths may be produced by stir- ring the yolks of two or three fresh eggs with two table-spoonfuls of cold water, which must. then be poured into the hot broth, gently stir- ring it all the time, without allowing the broth to boil after the eggs are put in, or they will be curdled. Silver Jelly.—If properly made, this jelly will be perfectly clear and colourless. Put an ounce and a half of the best Russian isinglass. into a saucepan, and pour over it a pint of cold water. Cover the pan closely, place it on a gentle fire, and let it remain until the isinglass is dissolved; then pour it out till cool. Rub the rind of two fresh lemons with three or four large lumps of sugar till the yellow part is taken off. Add sugar to make up the weight. to three-quarters of a pound; put this into a bowl, and pour upon it half a pint of strained lemon-juice. Put the dissolved isinglass into a saucepan, and beat briskly into it the sugar and. lemon-juice, together with the crushed shells and well-whisked whites of four eggs. Place SIM ( 878 ) SIP 5 v it on a gentle fire, and as soon as it begins to heat, discontinue stirring it, and leave it quite stil. Let it boil gently for five minutes; add half a pint of maraschino, and simmer three or four minutes longer. Take the saucepan from the fire, and let the preparation remain un- touched for a quarter of an hour; then strain it through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear. Put it into a mould which has been soaked till the last moment in cold water, and lay it in a cool place to set. Time, ten minutes to boil the jelly. Probable cost, exclusive of the maras- chino, 8s. Sufficient for about three pints of jelly. Simnel Cakes.—“ It is an old custom,” says Dr. Chambers, in his ‘Book of Days,’ “in Shropshire and Herefordshire, and espe- cially at Shrewsbury, to make during Lent and Easter, and also at Christmas, « sort of rich and expensive cakes, which are- called Simnel Cakes. They are raised cakes, the crust of which is made of fine flour and water, with sufficient saffron to give it a deep yellow’ colour, and the interior is filled with the materials of a very rich plum cake, with plenty of candied lemon-peel and other good things. ‘They are made up very stiff, tied up in a cloth, and boiled for several hours, after which they are brushed over with egg, and then baked. When ready for sale, the crust: is as hard as if made of wood—a circumstance which has given rise to various stories of, the manner in which they have at times been treated by persons to whom they were sent as presents, and who had never seen one before: one ordering his Simnel to be boiled to soften it, and a lady taking hers for a footstool. They are made of different sizes, and, as may be sup- posed from the ingredients, are rather expensive, some large ones selling for as much as half a guinea, or even, we believe, a guinea, while smaller ones may be had for half-a-crown.., “The usage of these cakes is evidently one of great antiquity. It appears from one of the epigrams of the poet Herrick that, at the beginning of the seventeenth century, it was the custom at Gloucester for young people to carry Simnels to their mothers on Mid-Lent or Mothering Sunday. It appears also from some other writers of this age, that these Simnels, like the modern ones, were boiled as well as baked.” Simple Cakes.—Rub four ounces of fresh butter into half a pound of biscuit flour. Add a pinch of salt, three table-spoonfuls of finely- sifted sugar, and a well-beaten fresh egg. Roll the pastry out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, stamp it into fancy cakes with a cutter, and bake these upon tins in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Simple Soup.—Cut into very small pieces half a pound of turnips, half a pound of carrots, quarter of a pound of onions, three or four sticks of celery, and a lettuce. Put these ingredients into a saucepan which has a very closely-fitting lid with four ounces of dissolved butter, and add a bunch of sweet herbs, if liked. Cover the saucepan, and steam its contents over a gentle fire for twenty minutes. Pour upon the vege- tables three pints of stock made from bones; let this boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Add a pint of freshly-shelled green peas, and simmer all gently together for three hours. Rub the preparation through a sieve, boil it up once more, add pepper and'salt, and serve. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 8d. per pint. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Simple Soup (another way).—Take three quarts of good gravy. Put it into a saucepan with two carrots, three or four turnips, three or four potatoes, some celery, lettuce, endive, parsley, and a piece of butter, with a little flour. Stew till the vegetables become quite tender, so as to permit them to be rubbed through a sieve, after which let them be put to the soup. Stew again for about a quarter of an hour, and season to taste. If too strong, add a little water. Singe, To (term used in cookery).—To singe poultry or game is to burn off the hairs which remain after the bird is plucked. The most: usual way of doing this is to pass a piece of lighted writing-paper over the body of the bird till the desired end is attained. The best way is to pass the plucked bird over a lighted spirit-lamp. When performing the operation care should be taken not to blacken the bird. Singhara, or Water Nuts.—tThe large seeds of Trapa bicornis, a native of China, and ‘of rapa ‘bispinosa and natans, species indi- genous to India, are sweet and eatable, and the aquatic plants which furnish them are hence an extensive article of cultivation. In Cashmere and other parts of the East they are common food, and are known under the name of Singhara nuts. From 90,000 to 120,000 loads of this nut are yielded annually by the lake of Ooler alone. The nut abounds in fecula. In China the kernel is used as an article of food, being roasted or boiled like the potato. Sippets for Garnishing Dishes.— Ordinary sippets are simply made by cutting stale bread into slices the third of an inch thick, toasting these on both sides to a bright brown, cutting them into small three-cornered pieces, and placing them round the dish. When properly made, they are fried in hot fat until brown and crisp, instead of being toasted, and are then drained and dried for use. In order to make them stick to the dish, make a paste with the whisked white of an egg beaten up with a little flour; brush the under part of the sippet with the paste, and stick it on the dish. It the latter is very hot, the sippets will not adhere. , Sippets for Invalids.—Cut a slice of stale bread. Toast it on both sides to a bright brown colour; cut it into small shapes, and lay these side by side on a dish.. Pour upon them as much strong beef, mutton, or veal gravy, perfectly freed from fat, as they will absorb. Sprinkle a little salt over, and serve. Sip- pets thus simply prepared are often enjoyed by invalids who cannot partake of fresh meat. Sippets, Superlative.—Cut. slices the third of an inch thick from a stale loaf. Trim ‘away the crust, lay the bread on a dish, and SIR ( 879 ) SKA pour upon it as-much cream or good, milk as it will absorb.. Let it soak for an hour, then take it up carefully, and fry:it in hot fat till it is lightly browned. Drain, and serve hot. Or cut the crumb of-a'stale loaf into slices..as thin as a sixpence; stamp: these into fancy shapes, and ‘fry in hot fat till crisp. Sippets thus mado are useful for making borders to dishes, and may be fixed in position with a paste made with white of egg and flour. : Sirloin of Beef.—Choose, in the first place, a well-covered sirloin, not weighing more than twenty or twenty-four pounds—a large piece is never well roasted; the time which it requires causes the outside to be too much done, while the middle remains _ quite raw. The meat must be covered for one hour only with . paper, to prevent its taking too much colour. It is necessary to observe that for large pieces the fire must not :be too sharp, or the meat will be burned before it is warm through. Just before, you take it. off the spit spread some fine ‘salt over it, and send it up very, hot with gravy only. This joint: is ‘often. spoiled ‘for the next day’s use by an injudicious mode of carving. If you object to the outside cut, take the brown off, and help yourself to ae the next; by thus cutting it only on one side, you preserve the gravy in the meat, and the goodly appearance likewise; by cutting it, on the contrary, down the middle of the joint, all the gravy runs out, and it remains dry and void of. substance, besides exhibiting a most unseemly aspect when brought to table a second time. : ‘Sirloin of Beef, Roasted.—The prin- cipal. observation and direction required with regard to this article is, that it is of all the parts the most delicate ; and when the piece is very big the fire must be more moderate, as it is along time before the middle becomes warm. If the fire is sharp, the meat will be burnt on the outside and quite raw in the middle. Another necessary observation is, that when’ you put the spit too low, the meat loses a'great deal of the heat, receiving it only from the top: to keep down the colour, it is better to cover it with a few sheets of white paper, and uncover it only when the meat is nearly done. Take care, however, not to cover the meat too closely ~-merely paper. the part that faces the fire— otherwise the beef will..not be. roasted, but broiled. Shs Sirloin of Beef, To Carve (sve Beef, Sirloin of, To Carve). : ae Skate.—The skate is a fish of the ray tribe, excellent and wholesome. It may generally be had at'.a comparatively low price, and perhaps on this account is not so highly esteemed as it ought to be: It is more highly valued in France than in England. |The: young skate are called ‘‘ maids,” and their flesh is tender and-delicate. Skate improves with being kept aday or two, and should always be skinned however it is dressed. The fin or wing is the part. generally used. . The liver ig much, prized. In cool weather the skate is improved by being kept a couple of days,,and is still further improved by crimping, though it should be remembered that it will not keep so well when this is.done, Skate is unwholesome out of season, It is in season in autumn and winter. Skate (a la Sainte Menehould).—Cut the skate into neat pieces, and simmer it in white sauce till done enough. Lay the fish on a dish, sprinkle seasoned bread-crumbs..over it anda little grated Parmesan or Cheshire cheese. Put it in a brisk oven, or before the fire, till the surface is brightly browned, and serve hot. Skate (au beurre noir—an excellent dish). —Take about two pounds of white. skate, wash SKATE, j it, and boil it;in water with salt and a little vinegar ; five minutes before it is done enough, put the liver in with it, and boil it also. Take up the fish, skin. it on both sides, lay it on a hot dish, and keep it hot for a few minutes. Dis- solve six ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan, -and stir it over a brisk fire till it is brown without being burnt. Throw about fifty leaves of picked: parsley into it, and when these are crisp pour the butter over the fish. Put a large wine-glassful of common vinegar into the saucepan with a little pepper and salt. Let it boil for half a minute, pour it all over the fish, and serve very hot. Time altogether, about ‘ half an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Skate} Black Butter for Boiled.— Place: about six ounces of good fresh butter in a small stewpan; put it on the fire to melt, and then: allow it to fritter so as to acquire a light- brown colour; ‘then take it off the stove, skim it, and pass it quickly through a sieve into a stew- pan containing four table-spoonfuls of French vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of chopped capers, ditto Harvey’s Sauce and mushroom ketchup, a piece of, glaze the size of a walnut, and sufficient pepper and salt to season the sauce. Boil the whole. well together, and use it for boiled skate or boiled mackerel, With whatever kind of fish this sauce is served, fried parsley forms an indispensable adjunct. | . ; _ Skate, Boiled.—Let the skate hang a couple of days, then skin it, and cut it into pieces about four inches square—some cut out of the thick; part, and some out,ofthe thin. Tie the pieces with string to preserve the shape, and put first the thick pieces, and a couple of minutes afterwards the, thin pieces, into a kettle with boiling water which has been prepared for the fish by the addition of a handful of salt, two SKA ( 880 ) SKA table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and a sliced onion, to a gallon of water. Boil the fish gently until done enough. The time required will depend upon the thickness. The liver, which is highly prized, should be boiled separately, and served at the side, or finely chopped and mixed with parsley and butter. Good melted butter fia- voured with lemon-juice, caper s@uce, shrimp sauce, or anchovy sauce, may all be served with skate, or there may be a sauce prepared as follows :—Dissolve four ounces of butter in a small saucepan, and stir in with it a tea-spoon- ful of chopped parsley and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Simmer three minutes, and serve. Time to boil the skate, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per lb. Skate, Boiled in Stock.—Skin a skate, and cut it into square pieces. Take as much stock in which fish has been boiled, or veal stock, as will cover the fish, and simmer it gently for an hour with the trimmings of the fish, the shell of a lobster or crab thoroughly cleansed, a bunch of sweet herbs, and two or three sliced onions. Strain and thicken the stock with brown thickening, and add pepper and salt, a little ketchup and soy, and a glass of claret. Put in the skate, and boil it until done enough. Serve it with the sauce poured over. Time to boil the skate, fifteen to twenty minutes. Pro- bable cost, 4d. to 6d. per pound. Skate, Choosing of.—Skate varies in quality more than most fish. The best is broad and thick, prickly on the back, with the brown side brown and healthy-looking, and the under side of a delicate creamy whiteness. Large fish are firmer and altogether more profitable than small fish, having more flesh in proportion to the quantity of gristle. The upper skin should be removed, and it should be stripped off from the middle outwards. If skate has a strange smell, unlike the ordinary smell of fish, it should be discarded as dangerous. “Skate,” says Dr. Kitchener, “isa very good fish when it is in good season, but no fish so bad when it is otherwise. Those persons who like it firm and dry should have it crimped, but those who like it tender should have it plain, and ate not earlier than the second day; and, if cold weather, three or four days old it is better ; it cannot be kept too long if perfectly sweet. Skate, if young, eats very fine crimped and fried.” ’ Skate, Crimped.—Skin the skate on both sides, cut it in strips the length of the fish and an inch broad, roll each length round the finger, and tie it with thread. Lay the rolled strips for an hour or two in salted water mixed with a table-spoonful of vinegar, or in cold spring water. Fish to be crimped should be taken as soon as possible after it is dead. The inhuman practice of crimping it' while alive cannot be too strongly deprecated. Crimped skate is generally sold cut in slices, rolled and tied with string, and with a little piece of the liver in each roll. Put the fish into fast- boiling salted water, and boil it gently until done enough. Take it up, drain it, remove the string, and serve on a napkin with one of the sauces recommended for boiled skate in a tureen, or without a napkin and with the sauce poured over it. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per pound. Skate, Curried.—Curried skate requires to be cooked very carefully, or it will drop to pieces. Boil two pounds of skate with a little of the liver; drain it well, and put it on a dish. Whilst it is boiling, slice two onions and a good-sized apple, and fry them in a little butter till soft. Rub them patiently through a sieve, and mix smoothly with the pulp a tea-spoonful of curry powder, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, a tea-spoonful of ground rice, and about a pint of stock. Boil the sauce, and stir it’ fre- quently. When it is thick and smooth pour it upon the fish in the dish, and send rice boiled for curry to table in a separate dish. Time, about twenty minutes to boil the fish. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per lb. Skate, Dressed, To Re-dress.—Pick the flesh from the bones, mince finely, and mix with it its bulk in finely-grated bread- crumbs. Add a seasoning of salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; moisten the preparation with butter, and mix in a little chopped parsley. Beat it till smooth, bind it together with yolk of egg, and form it into the shape of corks or balls. Fry these in hot fat, drain them, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Time to fry, ten minutes. Skate, Fried.—Cut the skate into square pieces; let these lie in cold water with a little vinegar or lemon-juice, a sprig of parsley, and a few peppercorns, for an hour; drain, dry, and flour them, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot dripping till they are lightly browned. Send brown sauce, tomato, piquant, or caper sauce to table with them. Time, eight to ten minutes, according to thick- ness. If skate is too much done it is spoiled. Skate, Fried (another way).—When the fish are very small, pickle them in vinegar, salt, pepper, a sliced onion, some parsley, and lemon-juice, for about an hour. Next drain them, and dip them into an omelet, and then into flour. Then fry them in hot dripping, and send them up either with or without sauce. ‘When skate is boiled with marinade, the skin must remain while boiling, otherwise the colour of the marinade will dye the fish; take off the skin after it is done, and dress it in the dish immediately. Skate, Fried, To Hat Cold.—Put the skate into boiling water, and boil it for five minutes; take it up, drain and dry it, and dip it into egg and bread-crumbs. Fry it slowly in hot fat, let it get cold, and serve garnished with parsley. Send mustard, pepper, and vinegar to table with it. Skate, Marinaded.—Remove the skin on both sides, and divide the fish into slices two or three inches long and an inch broad. Lay these in a dish, pour vinegar over them, and add a little pepper and salt, a bunch of parsley, and a sliced onion. Let the fish soak for some hours ; when wanted, drain the pieces, dip them in flour, and fry them in hot dripping till they are brightly browned. Send them to table SKA ( 881 ) SKA in a hot dish, garnished with fried parsley. Send caper sauce to table withthem. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per pound. Skate, Plain Boiled. — Take off the skin. Boil it in salt and water, and send it up on w clean cloth with shrimp sauce, or any other sauce, in a boat. Skate, Sauces for.— The following sauces may all be served with skate :—-White sauce, melted butter, onion sauce, parsley sauce, shrimp sauce, anchovy sauce, tomato sauce, piquant sauce, and liver sauce. Well- made black butter sauce is excellent with skate. (See Skate with Black Butter.) Caper sauce is, perhaps, the sauce most usually served. Skate Soup.—tThe bones of skate are so delicate and gristly that they can easily be con- verted to jelly; consequently, good nourishing soup may be made of this fish. Clean two pounds of skate, and hang it in the open air for a day; cut it into small neat fillets, and put the trimmings and the head into a saucepan with two quarts of fish stock or water. Let it sim- mer gently for an hour, and carefully remove the scum as it rises; then add an onion, a turnip, a bunch of parsley, and a few sticks of celery, and simmer all gently together till the liquor is reduced to one quart. When this point, is reached, the soup may be finished in twe ways: either thicken the sauce with a little brown thickening, add the fillets, simmer them tilldone enough, and flavour the soup with a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, a glass of sherry, and pepper and salt if required; or drop two ounces of vermicelli into the soup, and when it is done enough, which it will be in a few minutes, : mix with the soup a quarter of a pint of cream beaten up with the yolk of an egg, stir it over the fire for eight or ten m ~utes, but on no account allow it to boil, and serve very hot. When the soup is finished in the latter of these two ways, it is well to boil all the skate in the stock, and thus dispense with the fillets. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. per pint. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Skate Soup (a maigre soup).—Take four pounds of skate, and boil them in four quarts of water till the water is reduced one-half; then add six onions, some turnips, celery, carrots, sweet herbs, and parsley. When boiled enough, strain, and thicken with butter rolled in flour. Fry the inside of a roll, chop up some of the fish with a little parsley and butter, and add these to the soup before serving. Two or three anchovies, some anchovy sauce, or a red her- ring may be boiled in this soup without de- stroying its meagre character. Skate, Stewed.—Skin the skate on both sides, and cut it into neat pieces ; fry these in hot fat till they are nicely browned ; take them up, drain them, and lay them aside. Put the head, skin, and trimmings into a saucepan with two pints of water, an onion, and a little pepper and salt. Let the gravy simmer gently till it is strong, then strain it; put it back into the saucepan, thicken with brown thickening, and add half a dozen chives or a moderate-sized onion finely minced, twq table-spoonfuls of finely-chopped parsley, a table-spoonful of chilli 56 —n.z. vinegar, a table-spoonful. of mushroom ketchup, and a table-spoonful of Harvey’s Sauce. Let the sauce boil till it is thick enough to coat the spoon; heat the fish in it, and serve. Time, five or six minutes to heat the fish. Skate, Teased.—Take the dried wing of a moderate-sized skate, skin it, and cut it into slips about the size of a finger. Put it into water which has been boiled with a little salt and vinegar, and let it boil until done enough. Take it up, put it into a moderately-heated oven, and let it remain until it is quite tender. Draw out the bones, put the flesh into a soft cloth, and rub it between the palms of the hands until it is broken up and looks like wool. Dissolve six ounces of fresh butter in a sauce- pan, put in the skate, add pepper and salt, and stir the fish over a gentle fire till it is heated throughout. Send egg sauce, parsnips, and mashed potatoes to table with it. ‘Time alto- gether, about an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Skate, To Clean and Prepare.— Wash the fish, and rub them over with salt. Rinse them, cut off the tails, and pare the fins all round. Hang them in a cool airy situation. They will keep three or four days in cool weather. Skate with Black Butter.—Fry some parsley very green. Dish the skate accord- ing to taste. For a first-course dish you must either cut it into the’ shape of kites or rounds. Put the fried parsley in the middle of the dish, and the butter under the fish. Beurre noire is made in an omelet-pan. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into the pan, and let it become very brown without burning; skim off the froth; add to it salt, pepper, and vinegar, and pour this over the fish, and the fried parsley into the centre. This dish does not look well, but it is relishing when well done. Skate with Black Butter Sauce (excellent).—Take about two pounds of white skate. Wash it well, and put it into a saucepan with as much cold water as will barely cover it, - a cupful of vinegar, « sliced onion, a bunch of parsley, and a little pepper and salt. Bring the liquor gently to the boil, skim it, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer gently for ten minutes. Five minutes before the skate is done enough put in the liver, and boil it also. Take up the skate, drain and trim it, and skin it on both sides. Put it on a dish, sprinkle a little salt and pepper on it, place the liver on the side, and garnish with fried parsley. Have ready prepared a little brown butter sauce; pour this over the fish, and serve immediately. The sauce may be made as fol- lows :—Put four ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan, and stir it over a sharp fire till it is brown without being burnt. Add two table- spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, two table-spoon- fuls of Harvey’s Sauce, a table-spoonful of bruised capers, a quarter of a pint of brown sauce, and half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovies. Simmer all gently for five minutes, and serve. Time altogether, about three-quar- ters of an hour to prepare. Probable cost, skate, 4d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. ‘ SKA ( 882 ) SMA Skate with Caper Sauce.—Take two or three pieces of white skate. Roll them up, and tie them with string; then put them into fast-boiling water with salt and a little vinegar, and boil them gently until done enough. ° Five minutes before they are done put in the liver, and boil it with them. Take up the fish, drain it, and put it on a hot dish. Make three- quarters of a pint of good melted butter in a saucepan; stir into it while boiling two table- spoonfuls of bruised capers, pour the sauce over. the fish, and serve hot. Time to boil the fish, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Skate, with Caper Sauce (another way).—Boil the skate in a vessel with water, vinegar, salt, pepper, a sliced onion, parsley, green onions, bay-leaves, and thyme. When done, pick it neatly, and remove it into another clean véssel; pour over it some of the liquor in which it has been boiling, then drain it, and send it up to table, either entire or in pieces, with caper sauce in a tureen, or poured over the fish if preferred. i Skate with Liver Sauce.—Boil the skate, as in recipe Skate with Black Butter Sauce. Skim it, serve on a hot dish with- out a napkin, and pour over it a sauce pre- pared as follows:—Boil the liver of the skate for five minutes, drain it, and bruise it in a mortar. Moisten with a little of the liquor, and rub it through a sieve. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan over a brisk fire, and stir into it three or four mushrooms chopped small, a small bunch of parsley picked and finely shred, and a clove of garlic minced (the latter may be omitted, and a shallot or a small onion may be substituted for it). Dredge a:table-spoonful of flour ovér these ingredients, and add the prepared liver, the flesh of an an- chovy, a table-spoonful of bruised capers, and half a pint of stock made from bones. Stir the sauce over the fire for a few minutes, add a little more thickening if necessary, and pour it upon the fish. ' Time altogether, three-quar- ters of an hour. Skirret.—This is a perennial plant, a native of China, known in this country since 1548. The root is composed of fleshy tubers about the size of the little finger, and joined together at the crown or head. They used to be much esteemed in cookery. In the northern districts of Scotland the plant is cul- tivated under the name of “crummock.” The tubers, when boiled, are served with butter. They were declared by Worlidge, in 1682, to be “the sweetest, whitest, and most pleasant of roots.” Skirrets come the nearest to parsnips of any of the esculent roots, both for flavour and nutritive quality. They are rather sweeter than the parsnip, and therefore to some few palates are not altogether so agreeable. Skirts, Beef, To Stew with Kidneys. —An ox kidney, or a pig’s kidneys, may be used for this dish. Take equal weights of kidney and beef skirts. Cut the kidneys into’slices. Skin the skirts, and divide them into'small square pieces.’ Fry both in beef dripping till they are equally and lightly browned. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with as much stock as will cover them, a finely-minced onion, and a little pepper and salt. Simmer all very gently together till the meat is tender. ‘‘Thicken the gravy with a little brown thickening; add.a ‘table-spoonful of .any good store sauce, and serve. ‘wo or three slices of bread, fried till ‘erisp in the same fat as the meat, then cut into sippets, and put round the dish, will be a great ‘improvement. Time, one hour to simmer the ‘meat. Probable cost, 1s. per pound.. : Sleeping Cup.—Boil half a dozen cloves, half a dozen coriander-seeds, and half an inch of -stick cinnamon in half a pint of water till the liquor is pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, put it imto a tumbler, and stir briskly into it a quarter of a pint of fine old Jamaica rum. Add sugar to taste, and serve. ‘ Sloe, or Sloe-Thorn.—The leaves of the sloe are used for adulterating tea. The fruit, which is very austere, is much employed on the continent of Europe for making a'preserve, and also in some places for making a kind of tea. The juice is much used to impart roughness to port wine, and in the fabrication of spurious port. : aa Sloe Wine.— Procure sloes which . are sound and ripe. Look them carefully over, and reject all that are bruised and decayed. Pick oft the stalks, put.the sloes into a large pan, and pour a gallon of boiling water upon every gallon of sloes. Let them soak for five days, stirring them well every day. Put four pounds of good loaf sugar to each gallon of liquor, and. ‘when it is dissolved, put the whole into a cask ‘with a pint of spirit to each gallon and a half of liquor. If the wine is allowed to remain in the cask ifor a considerable length of time it will become almost equal to port, Time to keep the wine in the cask, at least twelve months. | Sly Bread, or Bread Fritters (an economical and excellent sweet dish).—Beat | three eggs without frothing them; swecten and flavour them with lemon-rindy rose or orange-flower water, or any other flavouring, and add a. table-spoonful of. good brandy: or rum. Cut some stale crumb of bread into slices the third of an inch thick, stamp them into small fancy shapes with a cutter, put them into: the mixture, and let them soak till they have absorbed as much: of the egg as possible.’ Lift them up carefully with a slice, and fry them in hot fat just as pancakes or ‘fritters are fried. Pile them on a dish, sprinkle powdered white sugar thickly over them, and serve very hot. Few persons at first sight would suspect the composition of this dish, which is simple and good. It may be varied by taking’ slices of common cake with currants and raisins instead of bread; or, if liked, the bredd may first be soaked in milk, and afterwards dipped in the egg batter. Time to fry, about five minutes. Small Birds, Broiled.—Pick the birds carefully so as not to.tear the skin. Split them open down the back, flatten them, lay them on. a clean gridiron which has been heated and rubbed with mutton suet, the inside to the fire. Place the pan rather high above the fire. When SMA ( 888 ) SME they are nearly done through turn them, and let them remain until the outside is brightly browned. Put them on a hot dish, butter them, sprinkle pepper and salt upon them, and serve quickly. A French cook would sprinkle pepper and salt upon them, and brush them over with putter, before laying them on the gridiron. Small Birds, Fried.—When the birds cannot conveniently be broiled, they may be fried as follows:—Pluck the birds carefully, split them open, and flatten them; sprinkle salt and pepper upon them, and roll them in bread- raspings. Dissolve a small slice of fresh butter in a frying-pan; when it is hot, lay the birds in it, and fry them nicely. Put them on a hot dish. Add a table-spoonful of boiling water to the gravy in the pan, let it boil up once, strain it into the dish, and serve very hot. Smelts.—The smelt is a small delicately- flavoured fish, highly esteemed, which, when perfectly fresh and good, possesses an. odour, said by some to resemble that of a violet, by others that of a freshly-cut cucumber. It loses this perfume about twelve hours after it is SMELT. taken. It may be dressed in various ways, of which frying is the most usual; it should never be quite plainly boiled, though the recipe for boiling smelts for invalids will be found excel- lent. Smelts are much used to garnish large fish, such as turbot or cod, but they may also be served alone. When fresh, the gills are red-and the eyes bright and full;. the body; too, is of a silvery hue, They are in. season from QOctober-to May. ‘They should be handled. as little as, possible; should not be washed, ‘but wiped with a soft cloth; and in drawing them the gills should be pulled gently out, and the inside with them, as the fish must not be opened. The roe should be left inside. ‘When split and.dried smelts are called spar- lings: ~~ Smelts, Baked (au Gratin).—Take a dozen’ sinelts, clean, and dry them, and trim away the fins.. Butter a pie-dish thickly, and sprinkle on the bottom finely-grated bread- crumbs seasoned with pepper and salt, finely- ad : chopped parsley, and shallot. Put the smelts in , the dish in a row, sprinkle seasoned bread- crumbs on the top, and pour upon the fish a glassful of sherry, a little Harvey’s Sauce, or a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, and half a tea- spoonful of essence of anchovy. Place little pieces of butter here and there on the.fish, and bake them in a moderate oven. When done enough, serve the smelts quite hot in the dish in which they were baked. Time, a quarter of an hour to bake the smelts. Probable cost, 1s. to 2s. per dozen. Sufficient for five or six persons. Smelts, Boiled, for Invalids.—Takea couple of large smelts, draw them carefully, and wipe them gently with a soft-cloth; put a quarter of a pint of water into a saucepan with a pinch of salt, a small lump of sugar, and about fifty picked parsley-leaves. When the water boils put in the smelts, and let them simmer gently until done enough, Take them up carefully on a slice, lay them on a dish, and pour the liquor in which they were boiled over them. Be watchful that the fish does not burn to the bottom of the saucepan. If liked, the gravy may be thickened with half a tea-spoonful of arrowroot, to-be put with it when the sauce has simmered three minutes. Time to simmer the fish, five minutes, or longer if the smelts are unusually large. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one person. ' Smelts, Broiled.— Draw carefully and ‘wipe a couple of large smelts, flour them well, and lay them on a gridiron over a gentle fire. When half done turn them carefully upon the ‘other side. When they are done enough put them on a hot dish, sprinkle a little salt upon them, and serve immediately. A cut lemon or a little sauce may be sent to table with them, if preferred. Time, five or six minutes. Probable ‘cost, about 2d. each. Sufficient for one person. Smelts, Choosing of.—If smelis be fresh, they will be-very firm, will have a pecu- liarly strong smell, greatly resembling that of a pared cucumber, and will be of a fine silver hue. Smelts, Fried.—Draw and wipe the smelts, trim off the fins, suak them in milk, and flour them well; or, if preferred, flour them, and then dip them in beaten egg and bread-rasp- ings. Fry in hot fat till they are crisp and brown. Take them up carefully with a slice, drain them on blotting-paper, sprinkle a little salt over them, and serve on a napkin on a dish. Put half a lemon at each end of the dish, and garnish with fried parsley. If liked, the lemon may be omitted, and shrimp or Tartare sauce may be served with the smelts. Time to fry the smelts, three to five minutes. Probable cost, 1s. to 2s. per dozen. Sufficient, a dozen. for five or six persons. Smelts, Fried (another way).—Smelts are usually fried. Clean and empty them, wipe them dry; and dip them into an omelet of two eggs, and into crumbs of bread mixed with fidur. Fry them of @ fine colour, and send them to table garnished with fried pareley. Smelts may be prepared au gratin like soles. SMI. ( 884 ) SNI _ Smith’s Gingerbread, Mrs. (see Gin- gerbread, Mrs, Smith’s). Smoked Beef, American.— Put the beef in brine, and turn and rub it every day for ten days. Hang it in a chimney over a saw- dust fire or a smothered wood fire, and let it remain for a fortnight. Rub it over in every part with black pepper, and hang it in a cool, dry, airy situation. When once it has been cut keep it covered with thick paper. When it is to be served, pare off the outside skin and shave it into thin chips. If very salt, soak it in boiling water for a few minutes. With halfa pound of beef dissolve a small slice of butter or lard in a frying-pan, stir in the beef, pepper it well, and when it begins to fizz dredge a large tea-spoonful of flour upon it. Pour over ita quarter of a pint of boiling stock or water; stir until the sauce thickens, and serve very hot. If preferred, two or three fresh eggs may be broken into the pan with the beef and gravy, and the whole stirred briskly until the eggs are set. Ordinarily-smoked beef is cut into thin chips and served without further dressing. Smoked Meat, Hash of.—Take some carrots, and cut them into long strips or little -dice; stew them till quite soft in brcth with salt and butter. Brown a little flour in butter, -and drain the broth from the carrots into it. Add to the preparation a little vinegar, sugar, and pepper; stir and boil it till it forms a creamy sauce. Take remains of smoked meat, -and cut it into small dice or slices; add this to -the carrot, pour in the sauce, stir the hash well, and let it stew for a quarter of an hour. If liked, a minced onion may be stewed with the carrots. This dish should be served with potatoes or klésse. Snail, Edible.—The edible snail of the South of Europe is-found in the chalk and oolite - districts of the South of England, where it is said to have been introduced from the Continent in the seventeenth century. This, however, is very doubtful. It has a shell about two inches in diameter and two inches in height, whitish or pale tawny, with four darker bands, - often not very distinct. By the ancient Romans it was much esteemed as an article of food: they ‘fattened their snails in enclosures made for the “purpose, and fed them daintily on meal and ‘boiled wine. It is still in much esteem for the ‘table in various parts of Europe, and is occa- sionally used in England. The common garden snail is probably as good eating as the edible snail, though it is not so large. ‘‘The glassmen of Newcastle,” we are told, ‘‘once a year have a snail-feast. They generally collect the snails themselves in the fields and hedges the Sunday before the feast- day.” Snapdragon.—This is a Christmas dish of very easy preparation, and the central feature of a favourite Christmas sport. It is common in England, but in Scotland seems to be com- paratively unknown. “A quantity of raisins are deposited in a large dish or bow] (the broader and shallower this is the better), ad brandy or some other spirit is poured over the fruit. and ignited. The bystanders now endeavour by turns to grasp a raisin by plunging their hands through the flames; and as this is somewhat of an arduous feat, requiring both courage and rapidity of action, a considerable amount of laughter is evoked at the expense of the unsuc- cessful competitors.” Snipe.—The snipe is a migratory bird. Like woodcock, snipes, after being plucked and singed and the head skinned, are not emptied, but are roasted with everything in them as they succumbed to fate. The thigh is more highly esteemed than any other part. They are in THE SNIPE. season from November to February, but are most abundant and fattest in frosty weather. They frequent marshy meadows, and, during frost, the edges of rushy hills, and feed on worms and insects. The snipe is decidedly in- ferior to the woodeock. Mr. Galton advises that, when rank birds are shot, they should be skinned, not plucked, as much of the rankness lies in the skin: if unskinned, they should be buried for some hours, because the earth absorbs the oil that makes them rank. The breast and wings are the least objectionable parts, and, if there is abundance of food, should alone be cooked. Snipe Pie (a Danish recipe).—Parboil the birds in bouillon and a little white wine, seasoned with a grated onion, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; make a forcemeat of three pounds of beef, which scrape fine, likewise a quarter of a pound of fat pork; pound and mix it well to- gether with a little butter and the crumb of two rolls soaked in bouillon; make rather thinner than for soup-balls; season it with grated onion, pounded pepper, allspice, cloves, mushrocms, and gherkins chopped fine; and thin it with some of the broth in which the snipes were parboiled. Line a dish with this forcemeat; put in the birds with a little of the soup and a small piece of butter; cover with a thick layer of forcemeat; bake an hour and a. half.. Serve with a sauce as follows :—Half a pint of soup, a gill of white wine, a little water, and a piece of butter rolled in flour, stirred till smooth; when it begins to boil, slice in pickled gherkins or lemon. It may be made in the, SNT. ( 885 ) SNI same way with young ducks or pigeons, and eaten hot or cold. Snipes (& la Minute).—Pluck three snipes carefully, and truss them for roasting. Dis- solve two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan, lay the snipes in it side by side and breast downwards, and add two finely-minced shal- lots, or small onions, a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Move the saucepan about over a sharp fire till the birds are lightly browned, pour over them as much good stock and sherry mixed as will barely cover them, and add the strained juice of half a lemon and a small piece of crust of bread finely grated. Simmer all gently together till the birds are done enough. Lift them out, and put them on a hot dish. Dissolve half a tea-spoonful of Liebig’s Extract in the sauce, stir it over the fire for a minute, and pour it over the birds. Serve immediately. Time, seven to ten minutes to fry the birds; seven to ten minutes to stew them. Probable cost of snipes, very variable. Sufficient for three or four persons. Snipes, Choosing of.—Snipes, like wood- cocks, when old have the feet hard and thick ; when these are soft and tender the birds are both young and fresh killed. When the bills become moist and the throats muddy, they have been too long killed. Snipes, Cooked (German _fashion).— ‘Pluck the birds, skin the head, and remove the ‘eyes. Singe them, and cut off the claws; twist the legs, disjointing them, and so bring the feet close to the thighs, and put the long beak through these as a skewer. The position will indicate how the breast may be kept thrown up by passing twine round the joints and lower part of the body, to tie at the back. Put them in a stewpan just large enough to hold them with butter enough to keep them basted, turn- ing as they are done on one side till they are tinged all over. About twenty minutes by a brisk heat will cook them. Toast slices of bread, pour on these the butter they were cooked in, and serve the birds on them. Dressed in this way, they are not drawn before the trussing. ’ Snipes, Gravy for (see Orange Gravy for Teal, Widgeons, Snipes, Woodcocks, &c.). Snipes, Potted (a good breakfast dish— to be eaten cold).—Take some freshly-killed snipes, pluck them carefully, cut off the legs and wings, take away the gizzard, but leave the trail untouched. Cover the bottom and sides of an ordinary potting-pan with thin “slices of fat bacon. Place the snipes in this in layers until the dish is almost full, and carefully season each layer with salt and pepper. Pour in as much clarified butter as will cover the birds, and lay over the surface of the pan a paste of flour and water, or, if the lid is put on, Jay a border of paste round the edge of it to keep in the steam. When the pastry only is used, a little slit should be made in the middle of it with a knife to prevent accidents. Bake the pie in a moderate oven. ‘When done enough, let it get quite cold before serving. Time to bake a moderate-sized pie, about an hour and a quarter. _ Snipes, Pudding of.—An excellent pud- may be made with snipes and woodcock, as well as with small wild fowl of various kinds. Pluck and singe a brace of snipes, and divide them into halves. Take away the gizzards with the point of a knife, and leave the trails untouched. Season the birds with salt and cayenne. Line a pudding-basin with suet crust. Lay in it a slice of rump steak seasoned with pepper and salt only, put in the snipes, and place upon them another slice of rump steak. Pour upon the meat a quarter of a pint of good beef gravy, cover with pastry, press the edges together with the finger and thumb, and steam or boil the pudding till done enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve very hot. A few slices of truffle may be added to the pudding or not. Time to boil the pudding, two hours and a half. Sufficient for four or five persons, Snipes, Pudding of, Superior.—Take four or six fresh snipes, pluck them, and cut them in halves. Take away the gizzards with the point of a knife, but put the trails aside till wanted. Season the birds with salt and black pepper; a few drops of lemon-juice may be sprinkled over them or not. Cut a Spanish onion into dice, put it into a saucepan which has been rubbed quickly round with garlic, and fry it in butter till it begins to turn yellow. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour upon it, and add a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, a table- spoonful of minced parsley, and a pinch of aromatic powdered herbs (see Herbs, Aro- matic, Powdered). Stir these ingredients over the fire, and moisten them with half a pint of wine, or with stock flavoured with wine. Boil all for ten minutes, add the trails, and rub the sauce through a sieve. Line a pudding-basin with thin suet crust, put in the birds, pour the sauce over them, and add three or four sliced truffles if liked. Cover the pudding with pastry, press the edges closely together, and boil or steam it in the usual way. out carefully, and serve. Time to boil the pudding, two hours anda half. Sufficient, six birds for a good-sized pudding. Snipes, Raised Pie, Hot.—Take four snipes, pluck and singe them, and cut them in two lengthwise. Carefully remove the gizzards with the point of a knife, put the trails aside till wanted, and season the birds with salt and cayenne. Fry the birds in a saucepan with a little clarified butter till they are set; they will take about ten minutes. Drain them, and put them in a cool place till wanted. Make a little forcemeat as follows :—Cut four ounces of calf’s liver and four ounces of fat bacon into dice. Melt the bacon in a sauté-pan over a brisk fire, add the liver, and season the mixture with salt, pepper, and a pinch of aromatic powdered herbs. When the bacon and liver are cooked, put them aside till cold, then pound them till smooth in a mortar, add, whilst pounding, the trails of the birds, and press the paste through a sieve. Butter a moderate-sized pie-mould, line it evenly with crust (see Paste for Raised SNI ( 886 ) SNI Pies), and put a layer of the forcemeat in the bottom of the mould, taking care to leave it hollow in the centre. Put half the pieces of snipe in a circle upon the forcemeat, and place ‘a little ball of forcemeat between them to keep | them in position. Spread a layer of forcemeat upon them, put in the rest of the birds, and put a layer of forcemeat over all. Fill the hollow in the centre of the pie with bread which has been covered with fat bacon, put the pastry- cover on the top, pinch the edges of the pie securely, brush it over with egg, and bake in the oven. When done enough, take off the cover, remove the bread, and fill its place with. scalloped truffles. Pour a little zood brown sauce over all, pile truffles on the top, and serve. The brown sauce may be made as directed in Snipe Pudding, Superior. Snipes, Roasted.—Pluck the birds very carefully so as not to tear the tender skin, and ‘singe and truss without drawing them (see Snipes, To Truss). Hang the birds feet down- wards to a spit, put them to a clear fire, and baste frequently with butter or dripping: When they have been down five minutes, put under them slices of the crumb of bread toasted and ‘buttered on both sides. This toast is intended to catch the droppings of the trail, and is con- sidered by epicures a greater delicacy than the bird itself. A slice should be allowed for each snipe. After the toast is put under the birds, a dish should be held under them when they are basted. When they are done enough, which ‘will be when the steam draws to the fire, flour and brown them. Take them up, dish them with a slice of toast under each, and serve without any sauce in the dish with them. If liked, a slice of lemon may accompany the birds, or a little plain melted butter may be ‘sent to: table in a tureen. Snipes should, be served very hot, or they will be comparatively worthless. They. should not be over roasted; indeed, it is said that some epicures consider they are in perfection when. they have been simply carried through a hot kitchen. The thigh is the best part. Garnish the dish with watercresses. Some cooks tie slices of bacon round the birds before roasting them. Time to roast, twenty to twenty-five minutes; five minutes less if liked underdone. Probable cost, 2s. to 3s. per brace. Sufficient, four snipes for a dish. i Snipes, Roasted (another way).—Pluck, singe, and draw the snipes, remove the giz- zards, and carefully preserve the trails. Truss the birds, cover them with thin slices of fat bacon, and tie these on securely with twine. Put them down before a clear fire. slice of the crumb of bread for each bird, and toast and butter it on both sides. Chop the trail, spread it on the toast, and put the slices ina brisk oven. Take the birds up, and dish them on the slices of toast in a hot dish. Time to roast, twenty to twenty-five minutes. “ Snipes, Roasted, with Truffles.— Pluck, truss, and roast the snipes in the usual way with slices of buttered toast under them. ‘When done enough, take them up, and put inside each bird one or two truffles which have “may be. Take a. been stewed in brown sauce. ,Send, the, sguce which remains to table in a tureen, and serve very hot. Snipes, Salmi of.—Take the remains of ‘cold dressed snipes, and cut off the meat in neat slices. Bruise the bones and trimmings in a mortar, and put them into a stewpan with two shallots, two cloves, a slice of lean un- dressed ham, a carrot, a table-spoonful of ‘chopped mushrooms, half a dozen peppercorns, and ‘a pint of stock. Let these ingredients ‘stew gently together for an hour; strain the sauce, and return it to the saucepan with a slice - of fresh butter rolled in flour, and half'a tumblerful of claret or madeira, and. any remains of toast covered with trail that. there Simmer the sauce again until it-coats the spoon. Put the slices of snipe into a clean saucepati, strain the sauce‘over them, and-heat them gently by the side: of. the fire without allowing them to boil. Put the meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with fried sippets. Time, an hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 1s., exclusive ofthe birds. Sufficient for three or four persons. meee toy acer Snipes, Superlative.— Prepare some forcemeat as follows:—Take three ounces of fat bacon and three ounces of fowl’s liver, and cut both into pieces an inch square. Fry the bacon’ over a sharp fire,-move.it about con- stantly, and in three or four minutes add the liver. When this is half done, mince it finely with the bacon, season the mixture with a ‘little prepared seasoning (see Herbs, Aromatic, Powdered), add a little salt and half a clove of garlic if liked, and pound all in a mortar toa smooth, compact mass. Press it through a,.wire ‘sieve,'and keep it in a cool place if not wanted immediately. Roll out one-half of it with a little flour, form it into a sort of thick band, and arrange it in a circle at the bottom, .of a dish. | Take four partially-roasted snipes, ‘split them open down the back, and spread forcemeat, a quarter of an inch. thick, over the inside of each. Lay the birds in the centre of the dish, and cover them lightly with forcemeat. Smooth them with the flat part of a knife which has been dipped in hot water, and put the dish ‘into a quick oven.’ Wipe away the fat which has come from the forcemeat, pour truffle sauce over,the snipes, and serve... Time, twenty-five minutes to bake the entrée.: Probable cost of snipes, very variable. Sufficient for three persons. ‘ _ Snipes, to Truss.—Handle the birds lightly, pluck them carefully so as not to tear the skin, and pick them entirely, neck and head. Do not draw them, but wipe them with a clean soft cloth. Twist the joints of the legs to bring the feet back. upon, the thighs, and press the legs close to the body. Turn the head under the wing, and pass the bill through the thighs and body. Tie a string round the legs and breast to keep the: legs: straight, and. pass it also round the head and the tip of the bill. Hang the birds to the spit with the feet downwards. SNO ( 887 ) SNO Snow.—Recipes for the following snows will be-found under their respective head- ings :— APPLE PANCAKES | APPLE witH SponeE- Porato CAKE QuINcE ’ Kees as Snow Rock, Snowy Lemon Rusy unDER Snow. Snow, Apple.—This is a Danish dish for dessert. ‘Take twenty large apples, and bake them till tender enough to draw off the peel; rub them through a tamis; add sugar to taste, pounded cinnamon, and grated lemon-peel. Keep stirring always the same way for a quarter of an hour; beat up the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth, add it, and still keep stirring. Fix a hoop on a sheet of paper, butter it, and pour the snow in; bake in a very cool oven. Apple snow may be iced. : Snowball Fritters.—Break three fres! eggs into a bowl, take out the specks, and beat them well. Mix with them three-quarters of a pint of sour cream, and add gradually as much flour as will make a batter so'stiff that a fork will stand upright in it. Stir into this a quarter of a pint'of beer, and add a table- spoonful of sugar, a pinch of salt, and a few cardamom seeds. Make half a pound of butter or fat boiling hot in a sauté-pan, drop the patter into this from the end of a spoon, and fry the snowballs till they are lightly set.: ' Drain them on a sieve covered with blotting-’ paper, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Sift powdered sugar thickly over them. The fat in which the fritters were fried should be clarified, and may be used for a similar purpose again and again. Time to fry, four or five minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Snowballs (a German recipe).—Take a pint and a half of milk, and set it on the fire. ‘When it boils, throw in a few grated bitter almonds, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and two ounces of sugar. Continue stirring, and pour in eight or nine spoonfuls of flour mixed in a little milk, and keep stirring till it has ‘become a stiff mass which falls from the spoon and saucepan. Take out the preparation, and have ready seven or eight eggs beat up, which add to the paste. Work all well together, butter a baking-tin, and with a spoon drop the paste on it in little balls, which will greatly swell in the baking. Put them in a moderately- heated oven, and when done strew them thickly with sugar. Snowballs, Apple (sce Apple Snow- Ss). ae Orange (see Orange Snow- Snowballs, Rice.—No. 1. Wash half « pound of rice in two or three waters and pick out all imperfect grains. ‘Throw it into a saucepan of fast-boiling water, and boil quickly for ten minutes; drain, and cool it. Pare five or six large baking apples, and carefully scoop the core without dividing them. Put into the hollow of each a little grated lemon- rind or cinnamon and sugar. Divide the rice into as many portions as there are apples, and spread each portion in a circular form on a separate cloth. Lay the fruit in the centre, and tie the cloth to cover the apple with the rice. Put the puddings into boiling water, and keep them boiling quickly until done enough. Turn the snowballs upon a hot dish, strew pow- dered sugar thickly over them, and send melted butter to table with them. Jf liked, oranges, skinned and cleared from the thick white skin, may be substituted for the apples. Time to boil, an hour and a half. Probable cost of snowballs, 1d. each. Sufficient for five or six. persons. No. 2. Wash and pick half a pound of rice; drain it, and put it into a saucepan, with a pinch of salt and about a quart of water. . Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently until the water is absorbed. Dip some small moulds or tea-cups into cold water fora mpment;|press the boiled rice into them, then turn them in shapes upon a dish, sift powdered sugar thickly over them, and send wine sauce or melted butter to table in a tureen. Time to boil, about an hour. Probable cost, 6d., ex- clusive of wine.. Sufficient for four persons. Snowballs, Rice (another way).—Sce Rice Snowballs. : , ; Snow Cake.—Beat four ounces of fresh butter to cream; then add gradually four ounces cf powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, half a pound of arrowroot, and any flavouring that may be liked—lemon, almond, or vanilla. Whisk the whites of three eggs to snow, stir them into the mixture, and beat it again till it is light and white. Butter a shallow mould or tin with raised edges, pour in the batter, and bake in a gentle oven. It should not be allowed to acquire any colour. When done enough, let it cool a little, then with a sharp knife divide it into pieces about two inches square. Keep it in a cool, dry place. Time to bake, about an hour and a quarter. Probable cost, varying with the quality of the arrowroot. Sufficient for a small cake. Snow Cheese.—Blanch an ounce and a half of sweet almonds, pound them in a mor- tar, and add a table-spoonful of ratafia and two table-spoonfuls of rose-water. Stir the paste into a quart of thick cream, and add the strained juice of three lemons and as much white sugar as will sweeten the cream plea- santly. "Whisk the mixture till it begins to thicken, then pour it into a mould, and set it in a cool place. In twelve hours it will be ready for turning out. Snow Cocoa-nut (to serve with moulded jelly and jam).—Break up a cocoa-nut, pare off the brown skin, and throw the pieces of white meat into cold water for a short time. Grate these on a coarse grater, and pile tho snow lightly in a glass dish. a Snow Custard (a German recipe).—Take a pint of milk, a pint of cream, quarter of a pound of white sugar, and a stick of cinnamon, and set them on the fire; when the ree tion’ begins to boil, pour in the yolks of ten eggs which have been beaten up in a few spoon- fuls of cold milk; keep it well stirred all the time till it begins again to boil; then take out SNO ( 888 ) soD the cinnamon, and stir in the whites, which must also have been beaten up; turn it quickly all the time, that it may not run over; when it has assumed a thickish appearance, put it into a dish garnished with ratafia cakes and pastry alternately. Snowdon Pudding.—Shred four ounces of beef suet very finely, and mix with it a pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, one ounce of sago, three ounces of orange marmalade, half a pound of grated bread- crumbs, three well-beaten eggs, and a dessert- spoonful of brandy. Beat the ingredients to- gether tillthe mixture is quite smooth. Butter a mould thickly, dredge a little flour upon it, and stick into it even rows of raisins. Put the pudding into it very gently, and in table- spoonfuls, not to disturb the raisins, lay a round of oiled or buttered paper on the surface, and tie the pudding ina cloth. Boil or steam it till done. Let it stand a few minutes after it is taken up before turning it out. Send wine sauce to table with it. If liked, two table- spoonfuls of apricot jam may be substituted for the marmalade, and a table-spoonful of ground rice for the sago. ‘Time to boil the pudding, about an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Soda Biscuits.—No. 1. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into a pound of flour, and add a pinch of salt and six table-spoonfuls of pow- dered sugar. Whisk two eggs, and stir them into the flour; add a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda dissolved in a spoonful of hot milk, and ‘beat the mixture till it is smooth and light. Roll the pastry out to the thickness of half an inch, stamp it into fancy shapes, and bake im- mediately in a quick oven. No. 2. Dissolve six ounces of butter, six ounces of sugar, a pinch of salt, and a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in a pint of warm milk, and stir into the liquor as much flour as will form a stiff dough. Knead the pastry till it is smooth and light, and roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Stamp it in rounds and bake immediately. No. 3. Beat the yolk of an egg, mix it with a pound of flour, and add a pinch of salt. Dis- solve a tea-spdonful of carbonate of soda in a table-spoonful of warm milk; stir this into the flour, with additional milk, to make a stiff dough. Knead well, beat with a rolling-pin, and roll the dough out very thin. Stamp it into fancy biscuits, and bake these in a moderate oven. When the biscuits are crisp they will be suf- ficiently baked. Time to bake the biscuits, twelve to twenty minutes. Soda Bread.—Mix thoroughly equal parts of tartaric acid and carbonate of soda, and put the mixture aside to be used as required. Dis- solve a tea-spoonful of the powder and a pinch of salt in a breakfast-cupful of milk, and stir the liquor into » pound of flour. Knead the dough till it is smooth and light, put it into a tin, and bake the loaf in a brisk oven. Some- times sour milk or buttermilk is used instead of sweet milk, and then a smaller proportion of tartaric acid is required. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 3d. for a loaf this size. Soda Bread (another way).—See Bread, Soda. Soda Cake.—No. 1. Rub a quarter of a pound of butter into a pound of flour; then add a pinch of salt, a quarter of a pound of stoned raisins, or half a pound of picked. and dried currants, half a pound of powdered sugar, and a quarter of a grated nutmeg. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in a tea- cupful of warm milk. Whisk three fresh eggs, and mix them with the milk. Beat all well together for a few minutes. Butter the tins, and line them with oiled paper. Pour in the mixture, and bake the cakes in a well-heated, steady oven. If richer cake is required, the quantity of butter should be increased. Asa variety, a quarter of a pound of candied peel or one ounce of pounded sweet almonds may be substituted for the currants, but then a little more soda will be needed. Itshould be remem- bered that the cake should be put into the oven immediately after the soda is added, and that it should bethoroughly baked. When doneenough, turn it out carefully, and let it restin a slanting position on the edge of a basin till cool. Lf liked, the batter can be spread half an inch deep ina shallow pan, then cut into squares when done enough. If this plan is adopted, the cake will be baked in twenty minutes. Time to bake, one large cake, one hour and three-quarters ; two small cakes, one hour each. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Soda Cake (another way).—Rub half a pound of sweet butter into a pound of flour, add a pinch of salt, half a pound of picked and dried currants, a quarter of a grated nutmeg, three ounces of finely-shred candied peel (lemon, orange, or citron), and two well-beaten eggs. Dissolve a small tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda in the third of a pint of lukewarm milk. Beat the ingredients well together, and bake the cake as quickly as possible after the soda is put in. Turn the dough into a buttered tin, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about an hour and three-quarters. Probable cost, 9d. per pound. e Soda Cakes, Economical.—No. 1. Rub six ounces of good beef dripping into a pound of flour; add apinch of salt, a tea-spoon- tul of mixed spice, a table-spoonful of caraway, seeds, and six opnces of moist sugar. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Adda tea-spoonful of vinegar and a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda dissolved in half a pint of lukewarm milk. Bake in a moderate oven. Probable cost, 4d. per pound. No. 2. Rub eight ounces of good beef dripping into two pounds of flour; add a salt-spoonful of salt, six table-spoonfuls of sugar, six ounces of picked and dried currants, a little nutmeg or spice, three eggs, and a pint of lukewarm milk, in which a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda has been dissolved. Mix thoroughly, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, one hour or more, according ta the size of the cakes. Probable cost, 6d. per pound. Soda Cakes (another way).—Take six ounces of butter, and mix with it one pound of flour; work it into small crumbs. Mix with this half a pound of sugar, half a pint of boiling ‘ sOoD ( 889 ) sOoL milk, three eggs, a little grated nutmeg, and eight ounces of currants. Beat the whole well and lightly together ; then strew over it a very small tea-spoonful of finely-powdered carbon- ate of soda. Beat the cake again for three or four minutes, and then bake it from one hour to an hour and a half. Soda Cream (see Cream, Soda). Soda Scones.—Make a stiff paste with a pound of flour, a quarter of an ounce of car- bonate of soda, and as much buttermilk as is required. Roll this out to the thickness of half an inch, cut it into small three-cornered pieces, and bake these on a girdle over a clear fire. When done enough, cut the scones open, butter them with fresh butter, and serve hot. If more convenient, milk a day old may be substituted for the buttermilk. Soda Water (see Summer Beverages). Soda Water, Bottled.—Take a sufficient number of soda-water bottles, and fill them with clear water; fit corks to them, then set them down. Lift them one by one, and add half a drachm of carbonate of soda and ten or twelve drops of sulphuric acid. Cork and wire the bottles immediately. Soda water should always be kept in a cool place, with the necks of the bottles downwards. Soda Water, Milk and.—Heat nearly to boiling a tea-cupful of milk, and dissolve in it a tea-spoonful of refined sugar; put it, into a large tumbler, and pour over it two- thirds of a bottle of soda water. This is an excellent mode of taking milk when the stomach is charged with acid, and consequently apt to feel oppressed by milk alone, Sole.—The sole holds a prominent position amongst flat fish, being second to the turbot o a a THE SOLE. only in excellence. It is highly esteemed, and deservedly so, as its flesh is firm and delicate. It is caught in great abundance all the year round, and may therefore be almost always obtained in good condition. Soles are best when quite fresh, though in cool weather they ‘may be kept until the second day without being materially spoiled. In fishing towns they may frequently be bought alive, then killed, and fried immediately. They are then in perfection. The skin of the back is sometimes black and sometimes white, the colour varying with the nature of the ground on which the fish feeds. Soles vary in size, from the little fish called tongues or slips to large fish weighing eight or nine pounds per pair. Those in roe are rather insipid in flavour. They are best filleted. Very large fish may be boiled and served like turbot, which they somewhat resemble in flavour. Soles may be served ina variety of ways, but are best when fried. To prepare them, scale and gut. them, and take the skin off the back; wash them well, and be careful to take out the roe; wash it, and return it to its place, pressing it down upon the bone; trim the fins neatly, dry the fish perfectly, wrap it in a soft cloth, and leave it in a cool place to stiffen till wanted. When practicable, soles should be cleaned a couple of hours before they are dressed. e Sole (& la Colbert).—Take a thick sole, scale it, draw off the dark skin, and clean it; with a sharp knife loosen the flesh from the bone on one side, without taking it off; make an incision on both sides of the bone down the length of the fish, and with the handle of a knife break it in one or two places, so that when the fish is done enough the bone may be removed without spoiling the appearance of the fish. Replace the flesh on the bone where it has been disturbed; egg and bread-crumb the fish, let it stand an hour, and then fry in the usual way (see Sole, Fried). When done enough, carefully remove the back bone, and in the cavity thus made place a little maitre d’hotel butter. Serve the fish on a hot dish, garnish with parsley, and send a cut lemon, or, if pre- ferred, plain melted butter or mattre d’hétel sauce to table with it. The maitre d’hétel butter may be made as follows :— Wash a hand- ful of picked parsley-leaves, chop them finely, put them in the corner of a napkin, dip them in cold water, and wring them dry. This second washing will decrease the raw taste of the parsley. Put it ina basin, and with it a piece of fresh butter the size of an egg, a little pepper and salt, and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Mix the butter and parsley with the point of a knife till smooth and creamy, when it will be ready for use. It must not be melted, or it would turn oily. Time, about twenty minutes to fry a thick fish. Probable cost, 1s, 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons, Sole (ala Maitre d’Hotel).—-Havetwoor three soles filleted ; stew the heads and bones in about half a pint of water, place the fillets of the soles in a flat cdtelette-pan in about a wine-glassful of this water, simmer two and a half minutes each side; turn the remainder of the water into sauce, by putting two ounces of butter, a little cayenne and salt and chopped parsley, thickening with arrowroot; add a tea-spoon- ful of shallot vinegar, or the squeeze of half a lemon, pour over, and serve. Sole (& la Menniére).—Clean, skin, and empty a fine fresh sole, cut away the fins and SOL ( 890 ) SOL gills, and with a sharp knife make four gashes right across it on both sides. Rub into these a little salt and chopped onion ; dip the sole in flour, and broil it over a clear but gentle fire. Lay it on a hot dish, rub it well on both sides with a slice of fresh butter which has been mixed with the juice of a lemon and a little cayenne, put it in a brisk oven for a minute or two, and serve very hot. Time, ten to fifteen minutes, according to thickness. Probable cost, 1s. to 1s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four persons. | Sole (a Ja Miromesnil).—Take three soles, scale them on both sides, and empty them nicely without injuring the flesh. Make an incision on the black side. Fry them without dipping them into flour. "When they are done, drain them on a clean cloth, open the place where you have made the incision, cut the bone near the head and tail, and draw it out. Let the fish cool. Make a steward’s sauce cold; that is to ‘say, mix a lump of butter with somo parsley chopped very fine, pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon. Divide the butter into three equal parts, and put one part into the’ opening of each’ sole; close the opening, and make the whole stick by’ means of the yolk of an egg; put a few crumbs of bread at the joint. Beat two eggs, then dip the soles into them, and next into’‘crumbs' of bread, equally on all sides. 'When dinner-time is come, fry the soles in hot dripping. They are done as soon as they are coloured. ‘Lhe sauce is found in the sole itself. This is what we call in France an entrée bourgeoise—a city dish. Sole (au Gratin) —This dish is much liked, but as only one sole can be cooked at a time, the guests should not exceed four, unless the fish be a large one. The French have an oblong metal dish, mostly in silver, for the purpose, so that the sole may be served in the dish in which it, is cooked. Grease the bottom of the dish ‘with butter to prevent the fish sticking, chop some parsley and a shallot, spread lightly, add some salt and pepper, a little wine or brandy, Jay the sole upon it, spread over the same things on the top of the sole, and some lumps of butter, with some button mushrooms, or a table-spoonful of ketchup and a little of any gravy that may be at hand; rasp over some bread-crumbs, and cook the fish gently in the oven. ‘Time, from ten to fifteen minutes, ac- cording to the thickness. - Sole (au Gratin—another way).—Prepare and wash the soles as in the recipe Soles with Water Souchet, and rub the dish with a little butter; spread. over it parsley, shallot, and mushroom (each chopped), salt, pepper, &c.; lay the soles over this, and on the top of them spread some fine raspings of crust of bread, and parsley chopped, &c., as under. Put several small bits of butter over the soles, a glassful of white wine, a tea-spoonful of each of the following articles—essence of anchovies, cavice, chilli vinegar, and Harvey’s Sauce; and when the soles have been in the oven ten minutes or more, mix with the spoon the sauce that you baste the fish with. Mind, the sauce must be short, as it is called aw gratin. This is a very palatable dish, , Sole, .Baked.—Take a thick and very fresh sole,. scale, skin, and trim it, wipe it dry with a soft cloth, and if convenient let it lie folded in this in a cool place for an hour or -more before dressing. Season lightly with salt and pepper, flour well, and, if, liked, egg and bread-crumb the sole twice. Lay. it in a buttered baking-dish, put little pieces of butter here and there upon it, and bake in'a moderate oven. Shake the dish occasionally to keep the fish from sticking‘ to thc bottom: When done enough, lay it on a reversed sieve before the fire for a few minutes to drain the fat from it. Put it ona hot dish, covered with a nap- kin, and garnish with parsley and cut lemon. Send melted butter flavoured with anchovy sauce and chilli vinegar to table.in a tureen; or make sauce by mixing the gravy which ‘flows from the fish with a little lemon-juice, a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovies, and a spoonful of stock. A glassful of wine is sometimes added to sauce thus made, but it is scarcely necessary. If more than one sole is to ‘be baked, it should be remembered that they must be done in single layers, that: is, they must not be laid one upon the top of another. Time to bake the sole, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. to 2s. Gd. per pair. Suffi- cient, one good-sized sole for three persons. Sole, Baked (uu Gratin).-—Choose a thick sole as fresh as possible. Cleanse it, remove the gills, scale it, and strip off the dark skin by ‘cutting it at the tail end and drawing it over the head. Wash it well, and wipe it dry; trim away the fins, and with a sharp knife make an incision a quarter of an inch deep down each side of the back-bone on the skinned side. ‘Butter a baking-dish rather thickly, and lay the sole in it. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it, and a few fine bread-raspings, and add about a ‘dozen mushrooms chopped ‘small, a small handful of picked, washed, and chopped parsley-leaves, and one finely-minced shallot. Cover the surface of the sole thickly with fine raspings, and moisten the fish with a glagsful of French white wine, a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, and a table-spoonful of mushroom-juice or ketchup. Put the dish in the oven till the sole is done enough. If the dish in which the fish was baked is suitable, serve the fish in it; if not, lift the fish carefully with a fish slice, lay it on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over. Another table-spoonful of wine may, be added to the sauce. If the surface of the fish is not sufficiently coloured, a salamander or red-hot shovel may be held over it for a few minutes. ‘When expense is a consideration, a glassful of cider or perry will be found an excellent sub- stitute for the light wine. Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes, according to the size of the sole. Probable cost, 1s. to ls. 6d. for a good- sized sole. Sufficient for three persons, Sole, Baked (en Matelote Normande).— This dish very much resembles Sole, Nor- mande proper. Prepare a stuffing as follows: —Mince finely and separately a dozen mush- rooms, a small handful of picked and washed parsley-leaves, and one shallot. Mix these in- gredients together, put them into a saucepan, and fry them with two ounces of fresh butter, sOL (891 ) SOL a little pepper and salt, and: a ‘small. pinch of -powdered spice.. Stir the mixture over the firo for five or six minutes, take it off the fire, beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix them with the herbs; stir them over the fire again for about half, a minute, and spread the forcemeat on a plate to cool. ..Cleanse and trim a fresh thick -sole. Remove the bone carefully so as not to deform the fish, and put the cold forcemeat in the cavity thus prepared. Lay the sole in a buttered-dish or saucepan, season with salt and pepper, and moisten with a glassful of French white wine or cider (see Sole, Normande)—a wine-glassful will be enough for one sole. Cover the fish with buttered white: paper, to prevent its acquiring any colour, and bake until done enough. Watch it carefully whilst it is baking, as if it'is too much done it ‘will be good for nothing. Serve on a hot dish. If liked, tomato or shrimp sauce may be sent to table with the fish. Time to’bake the sole, according to size. Probable cost, 1s. or 1s. 6d. for one thick sole. Sole, Baked, with Fine Herbs.—Take a thick sole, perfectly fresh. Cleanse, scale, and skin it, and carefully remove the back-bone without spoiling the appearance of the fish. Mince separately « shallot and a small hand- ful of picked and washed parsley-leaves. Mix these ingredients, and fry them with a tea- spoonful of powdered sweet,herbs in two ounces of butter for five or six minutes. Throw in two table-spoonfuls of bread-crumbs and the well- beaten yolks of two eggs; shake all quickly together for half a minute, and turn the force- meat out to cool. Put it in the place of the bone inside the fish. Put the fish in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle pepper and salt over it, dredge flour upon it, place little pieces of butter here and there upon it, and add the juice of a lemon and a quarter of a pint of water. Lay the fish in a hot dish, strain the sauce over it, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. If additional sauce is required, put an ounce of butter and an ounce of flour into a saucepan. Stir these over the fire for two minutes, then add three-quarters of a pint of water and a little pepper and salt. Stir the sauce over the fire till it boils, pour the liquor. from the sole into it, and stir into it a table-spoonful of the fried herbs which were used for stuffing the fish, made and preserved for the purpose. Take the sauce off the fire, stir into it until dissolved a slice of fresh butter, and it will be ready for use. Time to bake the sole, ten to fifteen minutes, according to size. Probable cost, 1s. or ls, 6d. for one large sole. three or four persons, . Sole, Baked, with Fine Herbs (another way).—Cleanse, scale, trim, and skin a sole. Lay it in a buttered baking-dish, season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle a dozen chopped mushrooms, a finely-minced shallot, and a tea- spoonful of chopped parsley over it. Cover with thick white sauce, and bake in a moderate oven. When done enough, lift the sole upon a hot dish with-a fish-slice; add the juice of half a lemon to the sauce, and stir into it until dis- solved a slice of fresh butter; pour it.over the fish, and serve. Time to bake, according to cost, a large sole, 1s. or.1s. 6d. Sufficient for’ size. Probable cost, one thick sole, from 1s, to 1s. 6d.-:. Sufficient for three persons. ' Sole, Baked, with Wine Sauce.— Cleanse, scale, skin, trim, and dry a thick sole, and with a sharp knife make an incision down éach ‘side of ‘the back-bone. Season’ with pepper and salt, put it into’ a bakitlg-dish thickly buttered, and pour upon it half a pint of French white wine, or, where economy is a consideration, a pint of cider or perry: Bake the fish in a moderate oven. When done enough, stir the’ liquor into half a pint of good melted butter, let it boil up, and add a dessert- spoonful of chopped parsley. Take the sauce off the fire, and stir into it until dissolved an ounce of fresh butter. Lift the fish carefully with a fish-slice upon a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve very hot. Time to bake, about fifteen minutes, according to size. Probable Sufficient for three persons. oe : Sole, Boiled.—The flesh of a boiled sole is tender and: delicate, and somewhat resembles turbot in flavour. It is. particularly suited for invalids and .convalescents.:. Choose the fish fresh, and very thick—a sole for boiling should weigh at least two pounds. Scale and clean it, remove the fins and gills, but do not take off the brown skin. Put it into..plenty of cold -water with a table-spoonful of salt and a table- spoonful of. vinegar; let the liquor boil, skim carefully, then draw the pan to the side, and let its contents simmer very. gently till the fish is done enough. When this point is.reached, the flesh will shrink. from the bone.. In taking up the sole, set the fish-drainer across the kettle for a minute, then lay the fish on a dish, covered with a warm napkin. The white. side must be uppermost. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon, and send melted butter, or shrimp, an- chovy, caper, lobster, or oyster sauce to table in atureen. Some cooks plunge the fish into boiling water, and boil it gently until done enough, but it is more usual to put it into cold water. Time to boil the. fish, according to size. A good-sized fish will take seven or eight minutes froni the time the water boils. Sole, Buttered.—Clean, scale, skin, and dry the fish. Rub a tin dish quickly with a clove of garlic freshly cut, lay the soles in it, and dredge flour upon them. Put little pieces of butter here and there upon them, allowing three ounces ef butter for each moderate-sized sole, and bake them until done enough in a moderate oven. Lay them on a hot dish, pour the butter over, and sprinkle on them a tea- spoonful of finely-minced parsley. Serve'very hot. Time to bake, about twenty minutes, ac- cording‘to size. Probable cost, soles, 1s. 6d. to Qs, 6d. per pair. nae ae _ Sole,. Choosing of.—Soles .should be. chosen thick, firm, and fresh, with .the under part of a delicate cream-colour. The colour, as well as the smell, is a test of freshness. Medium-sized fish are,the best... 2 Sole, Cold.—Divide the cold:fish into fil- Jets. Puta lump of clarified fat or butter into the saucepan. When melted, dredge'in half-a table-spoonful of flour, and let it fry till brown. soL ( 892 ) soL Then put in an onion cut in quarters. When these quarters are brown, add a bunch of herbs and, gradually, acupful of broth or water, half a wine-glassful of vinegar, and a little ketchup. Let the sauce stew very gently till the onion is melted; then season with pepper and salt. Let jit simmer a quarter of an hour longer. Put in the fish with w pickled gherkin or two cut into small bits, or in preference a few capers. Let the whole simmer together for ten minutes, and if the sauce is not thick enough, add a little butter rolled in flour. Sole Croquettes.—Take the remains of cold dressed sole, lift the flesh from the bones, and tear it into flakes with two forks; then put it into a saucepan with a small proportion of white sauce, the yolks of three eggs, and a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt. A quarter of a tea-spoonful of chopped onion may be added if liked, or the saucepan can be rubbed with a freshly-cut onion. Stir the mixture over the fire for a few minutes till the eggs are set, spread it on a dish, and leave it in a cool place till it is frm and cold. Divide the croquette- meat into equal-sized parts, and roll these to the shape of corks or balls. Dip themin an egg which has been beaten up with « tea-spoonful of oil and a little salt and pepper, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat till they are crisp and lightly coloured. Drain them from the fat, sprinkle a little salt upon them, and serve on a dish covered'with a napkin. Gar- nish with fried parsley. Time to fry the cro- quettes, about ten minutes. croquettes made with a pound of sole, 8d., exclusive of the cold fish. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sole, Croquettes of.—The remains of any kind of firm fish which have been left from a previous day’s dinner may with advantage be made into croquettes, although sturgeon and soles are better suited for this purpose than any other fish. It must be remembered, however, that the oftener a fish is presented to the fire the more unpalatable it becomes. With regard to the croquette of soles, reduce the sauce, cut the soles into small dice, and throw them into it, season them well, and put the whole prepara- tion into ice. When cold cut them into equal parts on a dish. Roll them either round or oval, but never into pears. Dip them into an omelet of two eggs, put a little salt, and then dip them into crumbs of bread, fry them a good colour, and serve them up with crisp fried green parsley in the centre. Sole, Curried.—Fillet two soles, and cut each fillet slantwise into four or five pieces. If more convenient, instead of filleting the soles, skin and clean them, cut off the fins and gills, and cut each fish into three or four pieces, leaving the bones in. Rub the fish with curry- powder, and dredge a little flour upon it, then fry it in hot fat for two or three minutes, but do not cook it sufficiently. Have ready as much warm Curry sauce as will barely cover the fish. Lay the fried slices of séle carefully in this, and let them boil gently till they are done enough, but not overdone. Serve the curry on a hot dish, and send rice boiled for curry to table Probable cost of ' separately. The curry sauce may be made as follows:—Mince two onions and one sour apple, and fry them in hot fat, moving them about briskly till they are soft. Rub them. through a sieve, and mix with the pulp a tea- spoonful of curry paste, a tea-spoonful of curry powder, and a tea-spoonful of ground rice. Add gradually about three-quarters of a pint of stock, and boil the sauce till it is thick and smooth. Time to simmer the sole in the sauce, about ten minutes. Probable cost, with a pair of soles at 1s. 6d., 2s. 3d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Sole, Cutlets of.—When soles are so large that they cannot conveniently be fried whole, they may be divided into cutlets. To do this, skin and clean the sole, and cut it crosswise through the bone into pieces about an inch wide. Fry these in the usual way. When done enough, dish them in a circle on a hot dish, with one piece resting upon another, and put fried parsley in the centre. Time to fry, according to the thickness of the fish. Probable cost, soles, 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per pair. Sufficient, one moderate-sized pair for three or four persons. Sole, Filleted.—If desired, the fish- monger will fillet the sole. If this has to be done at home, proceed as follows:—Take a large sole, and cut off closely the head, tail, and fins. Remove both the skins by cutting them at the tail, and drawing them over the head. Lay the fish flat on the table, and with a sharp knife make a deep incision close to the back- bone the whole length of the fish. Insert the knife to the head between the fin-bones and the fillet, just by the head, pass it under the flesh from head to tail, and thus raise it, and remove it in one piece. In this way take off the four fillets, cut each one across, and trim the ends neatly. Season them with pepper and salt, flour the fillets, and dip them in egg and bread-rasp- ings ; let them lie an hour, then fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them well, and dish them in a circle, with one fillet resting upon another. Send parsley, shrimp, tomato, Italian, ravigote, or Dutch sauce to table with them. If liked, the fillets may be rolled and tied with thin twine before being egged and breaded. Time, about three minutes to fry the fillets. Probable cost, one large sole, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Sole, Filleted (a la Tartare).—Fillet a large fresh sole in the usual way. Cut the pieces across, flour’ them, and dip them in egg and bread-crumbs. Let them lie in a cool place for an hour, and fry them in hot fat till they are of a bright-brown colour. Drain them on a sieve before the fire for two or three minutes. to free them perfectly from fat, and dish them ina circle on a cold dish, with one piece overlapping the other. About an hour before the fish is to be served, prepare the sauce, and set it in a cool place till wanted. Serve in the centre of the circle. The sauce may be made as follows:—Put the yolk of an egg, freed from the speck, into a bowl. Add a pinch of salt and a pinch of pepper, and stir in by drops about four ounces of good lucca oil. Beat the soL ( 893 ) SOL sauce thoroughly between every addition, for the success of the sauce depends upon this being done, and with every eighth tea-spoonful put in a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar and a tea-spoonful of ‘chilli vinegar. When the sauce is thick and smooth like cream, stir in a table-spoonful of dry mustard, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a table-spoonful of chopped ravigote, chervil, and tarragon. Taste the seasoning, add a little salt and cayenne, if required, and serve. Time to fry the fillets, about three minutes. Probable cost, one large sole, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sole, Filleted (4 l'Italienne).—Fillet a large fresh sole in the usual way, and divide each fillet into halves by cutting it across. Season the pieces with pepper and salt, and rub them over with cut lemon. Rub two ounces of butter into eight ounces of biscuit flour. Add a pinch of salt, and make a stiff paste by mixing with the flour the yolk of an egg which has been beaten up with the eighth of a pint of cold water. Roll this paste out very thin, and cutit into pieces of a size and shape that will entirely cover the filleted fish. Wrap each piece of fish in the paste, press the edges closely, and fry the fillets in hot fat over a slow fire till they are brightly browned. Drain them from the fat, and serve on a dish in a circle, with one fillet overlapping the other. Pour cold Tartar sauce (see Soles, Filleted, & la Tartare) into the centre, and serve. Time to fry the fillets, about half an hour. Probable cost, one large sole, 1s. or 1s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sole, Filleted and Marinaded, or Sole 4 la Horley. Divide the fillets of a large sole into fingers, an inch wide. Put them into a dish, season with pepper and salt, and put with them a small finely-minced onion, a table-spoonful of picked and washed parsley, and a little oil and vinegar. Let the fish lie in this marinade for an hour, and turn it over occasionally, that it may be equally impreg- nated with the flavour. Make a little frying- batter as follows:—Put four ounces of flour into a bowl, and stir into it a pinch of salt and a gill of lukewarm water. Beat the yolks of two eggs with two table-spoonfuls of oil, and add the mixture to the flour, &c. The batter ought to he a little thicker than cream. A few minutes before the batter is wanted, whisk the whites of the eggs, and add them to it. Drain the fillets on a clean cloth, and dip each piece separately into the batter, with which it should be covered entirely, but not too thickly. Fry the fillets in boiling fat, and move them about till they are equally browned. Drain them from the fat, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Send maitre d’hdtel, tomato, Dutch, shrimp, or white sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry the fillets, about a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for three or four, persons. Sole, Filleted and Rolled.—Take a large sole and half a pint of freshly-boiled and picked shrimps. Pound the shrimps with a third of their bulk in fresh butter, two table- spoonfuls of fine bread-crumbs, and a high seasoning of mace and cayenne. Fillet the sole, and divide the pounded shrimps into four portions. Spread a portion upon each fillet, rell it up from the tail to the head, and tie it with twine. Lay tho rolls in a thickly-buttered baking-dish, sprinkle bread-crumbs thickly over them, pour clarified butter upon them, and add a wine-glassful of clear stock and half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy. Bake the soles in a moderate oven. When done enough, take up the soles, mix a little lemon-juice with the sauce, and strain it over the fish. Time to bake, ten to twelve minutes. Probable cost, one large sole, 1s. 6d. or more, Sufficient for four persons. : Sole, Filleted and served with Mussels.—Fillet a large fresh sole, divide the fillets into halves, rub them with a freshly- cut lemon, and let them stand in a cool place for an hour. Wash and brush a quart of mussels; put them into a saucepan without any liquor, and put with them a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of grated lemon-rind, half a blade of mace, two allspice, half a bay-leaf, and, if liked, a piece of garlic the size of a pea. Lay a clean cloth upon the fish, and shake the pan over the fire till the shells open. Turn them out, beard them, and take out the moss and a small crab which may be inside, and strain the liquor. Put the filleted soles into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and add « small glassful of madeira and an equal quantity of the strained liquor. Let them boil up once, then draw the saucepan to the side, and simmer very gently until done enough. Put in the mussels and the remainder of the liquor; simmer the preparation for two minutes. Lay the soles on a dish, put the mussels upon them, and keep them hot till the sauce is ready. Let the sauce cool for half a minute, stir quickly into it the yolk of an egg beaten up with two table-spoon- fuls of thick cream, and when it is smooth pour it over the fish. Serve immediately. Time to simmer the soles, about ten minutes. Probable cost, one large sole, 1s. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for four or five persons, Sole, Filleted, with White Sauce. —Fillet a large sole, and season the fillets with a little pepper and salt, grated nutmeg, grated lemon-rind, and finely-minced shallot. Put them into a saucepan, pour over them four ounces of clarified butter, and let them simmer ten minutes. Add the strained juice of a lemon and a glass of light wine; simmer five minutes longer, and serve the fish with good white sauce poured over it. Time to simmer the fish, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, one large sole, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sole, Fillets of (a l’Aurore).—Take up the fillets of four soles; skin them on both sides. Have ready forcemeat quenelles, made of whitings, with the spawn of lobsters put in, to make it look red. Spread this forcemeat over each fillet, then roll them in the same manner as the paupiettes (see Sole, Paupiettes of Fillets of). Next skewer them with silver skewers, three to each skewer; dust a little pepper and salt over them. Season the force- meat rather high. Lay the skewered fillets.in, soL (894 ) soL a baking-pan, cover them with layers of bacon, aad bake them. "When they are done, take off the skewers, pare the forcemeat that has pro- truded, and dish them neatly. With a part of the potinded lobsters’ spawn which you have kept aside mix two spoonfuls of sauce tournée deprived of all fat, and a good lump of fresh butter; drain the whole through a tamis, that it may be fine. Add to it a little essence of anchovies, with pepper, salt, and lemon- juice. Keep the sauce very hot, and cover the fillets with it. Observe—all the bacon must be taken off ; Sole, Fillets of (au Gratin).—Take four ounces of mushrooms, four ounces of parsley, and two ounces of shallot. Peel the mush- rooms and the shallot, and wash the parsley, then mince the ingredients separately. Put half an ounce of butter into a saucepan with the minced shallot, a pinch of. pepper, and a pinch of salt. Stir this briskly over the fire for five minutes, add the parsley and the’ mushrooms, and stir the mixture for five minutes longer; then pour it out. Butter a tin or silver baking- pan rather thickly, lay the herbs in it, place upon them a sole, neatly filleted. and trimmed, and cover the fillets with finely-grated bread- crumbs. Put little pieces of butter here and there upon the fish, moisten it with a glassful of light wine, a tea-spoonful of anchovy, and a tea- spoonful of ketchup. Bake the sole until done enough. Serve it very hot in the dish in which it was cooked. If the surface is not sufficiently browned, hold a salamander or red-hot shovel over it for three or four minutes. Time to bake, about a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sole, Fillets of, Baked, with Sweet Herbs.—Fillet u large sole, and divide the fillets into halves. Rub these with a freshly- cut lemon, and leave them in a cool place for an hour or two. Prepare some savoury crumbs as follows :—Mix two ounces of finely-powdered bread-crumbs with a little pepper and salt, a pinch of grated nutmeg, the grated peel of half a lemon, and a.tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs. Dip the fillets first into clarified butter, then into the crumbs, and when the butter is set dip them in beaten egg and into the crumbs a second time. Butter a baking-dish thickly, place the soles in it, lay two ounces of butter here and there upon them in little pieces, and bake the fish in a brisk oven. Send shrimp, anchovy, or caper sauce to table in a tureen. If the flavour is liked, the dish in which the soles are baked can be rubbed quickly with garlic before the soles are put into it. Time to bake the fillets, eight or ten minutes. Pro- bable cost. of one large sole, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Sole, Fillets of (Turkish fashion):—Take off and sauté the fillets as directed before. Have some rice swelled and made soft in good consommé; mix it with a few spoonfuls of good béchamel, to put in the centre of the dish: this rice must be thick, in order that.it may be dishéd in a pyramid. To mask or cover the soles, take three spoonfuls of béchamel mixed with a quarter of a pound of butter, a tea- spoonful of cavice, and a little salt and pepper: Work this sayce well, and cover the fillets only: The rice is to form the centre of the dish. ~~ Sole, Fillets of, Vol-au-Vent of. —This.is a dish of a former day’s remains. Pare the skin; cut the soles into round pieces ‘of the size of half a crown. Then have a cream sauce, or else four spoonfuls of béchamel mixed with a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little salt and pepper. Let the sauce be made hot, without boiling; put the soles into it, and then the whole mixed into a vol-au-vent. The sauce must be kept rather thick, for fear of making the crust soft. Sole for a Convalescent.—Take one fillet of a large fresh sole, sprinkle a. little ‘pepper and salt upon it, and put it into a sauce- ‘pan with four table-spoonfuls of cold, water. ‘Bring the liquor gently to the boil, skim it, and,simmer very gently till the fish is done’ enough. Take up,.the sole with an egg-slice, and place it-on ahot dish. Stir the well-beaten yolk of a new-laid egg into the water, and whisk the sauce over the fire till it begins to thicken. Pour it over the fish, and serve im- mediately. Time to simmer the sole, eight to ten minutes. Probable cost, one large sole, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for one person, Sole, Fricasseed.—Take a pair of large soles and one small one; clean, skin, and fry all three, and drain them on a sieve before the fire to free them from fat. Raise the flesh of ‘the small sole from the bones, tear it into flakes, ‘and mix with it an equal quantity of finely- grated bread-crumbs, a tea-spoonful of picked and chopped parsley, a pinch of grated lemon- rind, and a little pepper and salt. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and with the fingers work into the mixture two ounces of fresh butter and one egg. Make it up into small balls, and fry. these in hot fat. Put half a pint of good stock into a saucepan, thicken it with brown thickening, and add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice and a glassful of port or claret. Season with salt and cayenne, if required. Let it boil till it is thick and smooth, lay the soles.and the balls into it, and simmer all gently together till the fish is heated throughout. Lift the soles upon a dish, place. the balls round them, pour the sauce over all, garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and.serve very hot. Time ‘to simmer the fish in'the gravy, three or four minutes., Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient, for four or five persons. . Sole, Fried.—Chopse a solé weighing from three-quarters of a pound to a: pound.. Scrape ‘thoroughly, cut off the fins and gills, wash the fish well,-and wipe it dry; take otf ‘the-datk' skin, by cutting it at the tail’ and ‘drawing it over the' head. The roes may either be taken out, or left in and fried with the fish. Dry the sole thoroughly, flour it; and brush it over on both sides. with well-beaten yolk of egg; shake very finely-grated crumbs of. bread -all over, and leave it in a cool place for an hour, if time will permit. Put into a frying- ‘pan as much good dripping as will, when melted, cover the fish. en it is quite hot— scL ( 895 ) sOL that is, when it ceases hissing and is still—im- mediately put the fish into it. When it is brown on one’ side, turn it upon the other by means of a strong fork stuck firmly into the head of the fish. When done enough, which point is generally reached when a thick smoke rises from it, place it on a hot cloth, and put it in the front of the fire to drain the fat from it. The cook should on no account omit to do' this, as greasy fish is exceedingly unplea- sant. Place a warm napkin over a fish-drainer on a dish, lay the sole upon it, and garnish with fried parsley. Send melted butter or shrimp sauce to table in atureen. The inex- perienced cook will find it to her advantage to use very fine bread-raspings, or crusts of bread dried and browned in the oven and finely pounded, instead of bread-crumbs. By using these she will ensure the good appearance of the fish. It should be remembered that fat which has been used for frying fish can be used, for that purpose only, again and again, if immediately after being used it is cooled a little, then poured.through a metal strainer’to free it from crumbs, and make it pure and clean, and put aside in a cool place for future use. Great care must be taken to prevent jt burning, and fresh fat may be added when necessary. Sometimes, when a sole is held up to the light, though it is fresh, a dark streak may be seen bythe side of the roe. This arises from the fish having been s9 closely packed with the others after it was caught, that it was literally smothered to death. In cases like this the roe should be removed before the fish is fried. When eggs are scarce or expensive, a thin batter of flour and water may be used instead of egg and bread-crumbs. Time to fry a moderate-sized sole with plenty of fat, ten minutes. Probable cost, soles, 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per pair. Sufficient, one pair of soles for three or four persons. Sole, Fried in Oil (to be eaten cold) — Clean, scale, skin, empty, trim, and dry a moderate-sized sole, and brush it over with. beaten egg. Put six table-spoonfuls of. best lucca oil in a sauté-pan, let it get quite hot, then put in thefish. Let it remain for five minutes, turn it over, and then leave it in five minutes longer. Drain it well, put it aside, and serve cold. Time to try the sole, ten minutes. Probable cost, 1s. or 1s. 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. ar Sole, Greriade of.— When there are any. reriains:of dressed fish they may be used with a large fresh sole as follows :—Lift the dressed - fish from the bone, and tear it into flakes. Mix with’ it a third of its bulk in’ finely-gtated bread-crumbs, and add half an’ anchovy freed from'bone and finely pounded, a tea-spoonful'' of‘ chopped parsley, the yolk of 'a hard-boiled egg, ahd'a ‘little pepper and salt. Mix’ these ingredients thoroughly, work in with the finger two ounces of fresh butter, and add one raw egg to bind the forcemeat together.‘ Clear; scale, and skin ‘the sole, split it open, and carefully remove the bone. In its place spread the force- meat, put: the two Halves:of the’ sole together again, arid: fasten them in their position with four small: skewers. Put the fish into a ‘well-, buttered -baking-dish, pour a cupful of' stock round it, and bake in a’ moderately-heated oven. When done enough, take’ it up, strain the gravy, and flavour it with a spoonful of the liquor in which gherking have been pickled, and a spoonful'of caper'vinegar. Make it hot, pour it round the fish, and serve. Some- times the inside of the sole thus prepared is larded in alternate rows with gherkins and’ truffles cut into thin strips. Time to bake the sole, about half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sole in Cream (a delicate and delicious dish)—Take a pair of moderate-sized soles, scale and skin them, and clean them with scrupulous care. Put them into a saucepan of boiling water, and let them simmer gently for two minutes. Take them up, drain them, and put them into a clean saucepan. Pour over them as much sweet cream as will barely cover them, add a little salt and cayenne, a pinch .of pounded mace, and an inch or two of lemon- rind, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Take them up with a slice, and place them upon a hot dish. ‘Thicken the cream with a little arrowroot, stir a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice into it, and pour it over the fish. It may seem unnecessary that the soles should be boiled for a minute or two in water before they are put into the cream, but it will be found that if this is not done the sauce will have a slightly unpleasant fishy flavour. Time to simmer the fish, eight to ten minutes. Suf- ficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, soles, 1s. 6d. to 2s. per pair. Sole, Normande.—Choose a thick. sole, ‘scale and clean it, and draw off the dark skin by cutting it through at the tail end and drawing it over the head. Butter thickly a dish that will stand the fire, and strew over it some very thin slices of onions. A silver dish is the most suitable for the purpose, as the fish should be served in the dish in which it was baked. Season the sole with salt and pepper, and lay it on the onion; sprinkle a little chopped parsley on the surface, and moisten the fish well with French white wine. Put it in a gentle oven, and bake it until done enough. Take a dozen fine bright-yellow mussels, cleanse and scrape them, boil them in the usual way, beard and drain them, and lay them on the sole. Make a quarter of a pint of rich white sauce, mix with this the gravy from the sole and a little of that in which the mussels were cooked. Reduce the sauce till it coats the spoon; pour a little of it upon the sole over the mussels, and put the dish again in the oven fora few minutes to make it quite hot, but, be careful not to colour the sauce at all. Serve very hot, and send the sauce which remains to table in a tureen, For a superlative dish, oysters, and. mushrooms may be laid upon the sole, as well as mussels, and the liquor from the oysters may. be added tothe sauce. Also fried smelts, cray- fish, and fried créutons of bread may be used to garnish the dish. When preparing the fish for baking, it should be remembered that cider and perry replace French wine so well: that it'is almost needless to employ the latter, ex- cepting when money is very plentiful.’ Grand cooks would use champagne, sauterne or other soL “(896 ) sol expensive white wines. The Normans use the best sparkling cider—‘ Sillerie de Normandie.” Time to bake the sole, half to three-quarters of an hour, according to size. Probable cost, one thick sole, 1s. Sufficient for three persons. Sole, Paupieites of Fillets of.—The farce or forcemeat must be made of whiting (see Whiting Forcemeat). Fillet a pair of soles, trim them evenly, and season them with pepper and salt. Keep the skin on the white side of the sole, but remember to scrape it well. Spread a little forcemeat on the fillets on the white side, and roll them round to make the paupicttes. Butter « piece of paper large enough to contain two or three; roll them in that paper, and do the same for the others; then put them into the oven, bake them ten or twelve minutes, and drain and make them all equal: place them in a circle on a hot dish, and garnish prettily. Serve them with the same sauce as for whitings, or white sharp sauce. Sole Pie.—Take a pair of moderate-sized soles, or, if preferred, the remains of fried or boiled soles. Lift the flesh from the bones, and place it in layers in a buttered pie-dish. Be- tween each layer put « dozen fresh or tinned oysters and the liquor; season the fish with pepper, salt, and pounded mace, and lay little pieces of butter here and there upon the top. ‘A dozen oysters will be sufficient for a pound of sole. Cover the dish with good puff paste, and bake in a moderate oven. When done enough, pour into it, through « strainer put into the hole at the top, as much white sauce as will moisten it. This sauce may be prepared as follows:—Make stock by boiling the fish-bones in as much water as will cover them. Strain the liquor, mix with it an equal quantity of cream, thicken with flour, and season it. The remains of cold cod may be made into a pie in the same way. When the pastry is baked the pie is done enough. Probable cost, soles, 1s. 6d. to 2s. per pair. Sole, Roulettes of.—Choose fine fish : remove the heads, fins, and tails. Strip them from the bone. these in a marinade of salt, pepper, lemon- juice, and a grate of nutmeg for half an hour. Roll the fillets egg-shaped, and bind them with thread. Pack closely together in a stewpan with a little water or broth, adding some butter and lemon-juice. Cover them closely, and stew gently till done enough. Serve the roulettes in their own sauce, or glaze them brown and serve as ragout. Sole, Sauce for.—Mix a table-spoonful of dried flour with a good slice of fresh butter. Pour half a pint of boiling water upon the mixture, stir it well, and let it boil for ten minutes. Add a tea-spoonful of tarragon vine- gar and a tea-spoonful of chilli vinegar. A tea- spoonful of essence of anchovy may be added if liked. Serve immediately. Time, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for a pair of soles. Sole, Small Patties of.— Make small vcl-au-vent cases in the usual way. Bake them, take off the covers, and fill them with a savoury preparation made by cutting the flesh Cut small oblong fillets; lay ‘ of a cold fried sole into dice, and warming it in thick Allemand sauce. Put the covers on the top, and serve on a dish covered with a napkin. é Sole, Stewed (a maigre dish).—Skin, scale, and clean a large sole, and put it into a saucepan with an onion stuck with two cloves, fifteen black peppercorns, and as many berries of alispice. Pour upon it as much boiling water as will cover it, and let it simmer gently until done enough. Take the fish up carefully with a slice, lay it on a hot dish, and keep it hot for a few minutes. Thicken the sauce with flour and butter, and—supposing there is half a pint—stir into it half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, two table-spoonfuls of claret, and a pinch of cayenne. Let it: boil till thick and smooth, strain it over the fish, garnish with toasted sippets, and serve very hot. Time to stew the sole, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for two persons. Sole, Stewed (another why).—Clean, skin, and scale a pair of soles, and then stew them as before with as much boiling water as will cover them, an onion stuck with two cloves, fifteen peppercorns, and fifteen berries of all- spice. Let them simmer for a quarter of an hour. Put into a separate saucepan half a pint of milk or cream, the thin rind of a small lemon, a little salt and cayenne, and a thickening of flour and butter. Strain into this sauce half the liquor in which the fish was boiled, lift the soles into it, and let them simmer in it ten minutes. Lift the soles into a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, garnish with toasted sip- pets, and serve. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, if milk be used, 2s. to 2s. 6d., accord- ing to the size of the soles. A pair of mode- rate-sized soles are enough for four or five persons. Sole, Stuffed and Baked (a Portu- guese recipe).—Make a little forcemeat as fol- lows :—Mince very finely six ounces of lean veal or beef thoroughly freed from skin and fat. Mix with it two ounces of finely-gratted bread- crumbs which have been soaked in milk and squeezed dry, and two ounces of shred suet, butter, or fat bacon that has been slightly fried. Pound the ingredients in a mortar with one fillet of an anchovy, a table-spoonful of picked and chopped parsley, a small onion, and a fla- vouring of pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Bind the mixture together with the yolk of an egg. Clean, skin, and fillet a large fresh sole. Squeeze a little lemon-juice upon the fillets, spread the forcemeat upon them, roll them round, and tie them with twine. Put the rolls in a buttered dish, brush over with beaten egg, strew bread-crumbs over them, and put into the dish under them a cupful of gravy mixed with what remains of the egg, a tea- spoonful of caper vinegar, a filleted anchovy, and a tea-spoonful of shred parsley. Cover the dish tightly, and bake the rolls in a gentle oven. When done enough, put the rolls into a hot dish, strain the gravy over, and garnish with fried parsley. Sometimes the rolls are dipped in French frying-batter, and fried till crisp, then baked afterwards. Time SsoL (897 ) SOR to bake the fish, about ten minutes. Probable cost, one large sole, 1s, or 1s. 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons, Sole, with Mushrooms. — Clean, but do not skin, a pair of moderate-sized fresh soles. Lay them in a saucepan, cover with equal quantities of milk and water, and add an ounce of butter and a table-spoonful of strained Jemon-juice. Bring them gently to the point of boiling, draw them back a little, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Take them ap, drain them, put them on a hot dish, and pour over them three-quarters of a pint of white mushroom sauce (see Mushroom Sauce, White). Time to simmer the soles, six or seven minutes after the liquor boils. Probable cost, 2s. Suf- ficient for four or five persons. Sole with Water Souchet. — Take some fine fresh soles, scale the white side, and take the skin from the black side. Empty out all the intestines, and wash the fish thoroughly in several waters. When the soles are quite clean, boil them in water souchet, which should be prepared as follows:—Take some roots of parsley, and cut them into slices about the eighth of an inch thick and an inch in length. Put these roots into some water with a bunch of parsley, green onions, and a little salt; let them stew for an hour, then stew the soles in this water. When the fish are done enough, have ready some parsley leaves without the stalks which have been blanched separately in salt and water. Drain the soles, and take care that the parsley roots are preserved. Put the fish into a tureen with some of the liquor in which they have been stewed, and which you should strain through a silk sieve. Throw in the parsley roots and leaves, and serve up the water souchet without any bread in it; but ina separate plate send to table a few slices of rye- bread and butter. This broth must be as salt as the salt sea. Solid Cream.—Take half a pint of double cream, or cream which has stood for twenty- four hours before being skimmed. Sweeten it with an ounce of sugar and flavour pleasantly. Whisk it with an ordinary whisk in a cool place till it begins to thicken, then stop in- stantly. If the whisking is kept up too long the on will curdle. It will be twice its original ulk, Solid Raspberry.—Dissolve half a pint of raspberry jelly, or rub a pint of the fruit through a sieve; add 2 ozs. of powdered sugar and a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. Stir the mixture till it is almost cool, then add three- quarters of an ounce of isinglass or gelatine which has been dissolved in a tea-cupful of water, and stir it again for a few minutes. Mix lightly with half a pint-of solid cream (see Jast recipe) and turn into a damp mould. Care must be taken to use an earthenware, not a metal mould, or the colour of the solid will be spoilt. Time, about twelve hours to set the ae Probable cost, 8s. Sufficient for a quart mould. Solid Ratafia.—Crumble six ounces of macaroons and two ounces of ratafia cakes, put them into a bowl, and pour upon them a pint of 57—n.£. boiling cream sweetened and flavoured with lemon-rind. Stir the mixture till it is almost cool, and the biscuits are dissolved, then add half an ounce of isinglass or gelatine which has been dissolved in a tea-cupful of milk. Stir the cream till it is cold, pour it into damp moulds, and leave it in a cool place till firm. Turn it upon a glass dish, and serve in the same. Time, about twelve hours to set the solid. nie al cost, about 3s. Sufficient for a quart mould. Solid Syllabub.—Rub five or six lumps of sugar upon the rind of two large fresh lemons till the yellow part is taken off, then add a little more sugar to make up the weight to half a pound. Crush this to powder, put it into a bowl, and strain upon it the juice of the lemons. Add a pint of sherry or raisin ;wine, and a pint of double cream, that is, cream that has stood for twenty-four hours. Whisk the mixture till it is a solid froth, and lay it on a muslin sieve. Leave it for twelve hours, then serve in glasses. Time to froth the ev an hour or more. Probable cost, 3. 6d. Somersetshire Frumenty.—This fru- menty may be served hot or cold. Bruise a quart of wheat thoroughly, put it into a stone jar, pour a quart of water upon it, and bake in a gentle oven till it is soft. Puta quart of new milk into a bowl, and pulp into it as much wheat as will make it of the consistency of very thick cream. Stir into it sugar and nutmeg to sweeten and flavour it pleasantly, and add two table-spoonfuls of picked currants. Stir the mixture over the fire till the currants are soft. Remove it from the fire, and add the yolks of two eggs beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of milk, then stir it again over the fire for a few minutes, but do not let it boil. Serve ina deep dish. Time to bake the wheat, about four hours. Somersetshire Syllabub.—Put a pint of port and a pint of sherry into a large thina bowl, together with six ounces of powdered sugar and half a grated nutmeg. Milk into the bowl until it is full, or, if preferred, milk into another vessel. Strain the milk, and while it is still warm pour it from a good height upon the wine. In twenty minutes cover it with clotted cream, and garnish with nonpareil comfits. A true Somersetshire syl- labub can be prepared only with milk warm and fresh from the cow. Sufficient for a large syllabub. Sop, Sweet and Sour.—The sweet sop is a tropical fruit of about the size of an arti- choke; the pulp is said when properly ripe to have a taste somewhat like clotted cream and sugar. The plant seems to have been originally a native of South America, but it is now very widely distributed throughout the tropics. The sour sop is the fruit of a tree somewhat similar in size. The fruits are very abundant, and the negroes eat large quantities of them. Sorbet of Kirschenwasser. — Make some ice a8 follows:—Mix thoroughly a pint of syrup at 35°, and a pint of chablis. Strain the mixture through silk into a freezing-pan,. SOR (898 ) SOR and freeze in the usual way. When frozen, fla- vour it with three table-spoonfuls of kirschen- wasser. Put the sorbet into glasses, and serve it at dinner with the roasts. Sorbet of Rum.—Make the ice as before, but before freezing mix with the sorbet a quarter of a pint of strained lemon-juice. When frozen, flavour with three. table-spoonfuls of fine old Jamaica rum, and serve it in glasses with the | roasts. Sorrel.—Sorrel is an acid-leaved root largely used on the Continent to make soups, sauces, and salads. Where the taste for it has been acquired, it is considered a pleasant ac- companiment to young meat. Sometimes, when sorrel alone is considered too acid, a mixture of equal parts of spinach and sorrel is served. Sorrel grows wild, and may be had for the plucking, and gathered thus is very good; __ nevertheless, as the flavour of cultivated sorrel is much superior to that of wild sorrel, every garden should contain a few plants. The most useful variety is the broad-leaved sorrel, which is casily propagated cither by seed or division of the root. This root, like that of rhubarb, will stand almost any amount of ill-usage. The seed is very small, and must be only slightly covered with earth. The young plants may be thinned to from three to six inches apart; but if they are left crowded no great harm will be done, as they must eventually be transplanted. Spring-sown sorrel may be gathered the next autumn; during the following season it will afford several cuttings. ; Sorrel and Eggs (see Eggs and Sorrel). .Sorrel for Garnishing Meat.—Pick three pounds of fresh green sorrel, wash it in several waters, and drain it thoroughly. Put it into a good-sized saucepan with a tea-spoon- ful of salt and a quart of boiling water, and let it boil quickly till tender, turning occasionally to prevent the lower leaves burning to the bottom of the pan. Drain it well, then chop it till very small. Work an ounce of flour into an ounce and uw half of butter, and stir the mixture quickly: over the fire for three minutes. Put in the sorrel, and add, a little at a time, half a pint of strong stock. Stir the sorrel over the fire for fully twenty minutes. Beat two eggs with three table-spoonfuls of milk, stir’ this quickly into the sorrel, and in four or five minutes it will be ready for serving. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the sorrel. Sorrel Fried in Batter.—Make a small quantity of frying-batter (sce Batter for Frying | Vegetables). This will be better if made an hour or two before it is wanted. Take the middle leaves only of the sorrel, wash them in two or three waters, drain and dry them well, and trim them neatly. Dip them in the batter, and fry them in hot fat till crisp and brown. Serve on a hot dish, garnished with parsley. Time to fry, three or four minutes. Sorrel, Lamb Ragofit with (see Lamb Ragott with Sorrel). Sorrel, Purée of (to serve with cutlets, toast veal, &c.).—Wash half a peck of fresh | green sorrel in several waters; pick away the stalks, and boil it with half a pint of water till . tender, then drain it thoroughly. Slice two large | onions, and fry them in butter till they turn yellow; dredge a little flour upon them, and add half a pint of gravy, a small lump of sugar, a pinch of grated nutmeg, anda little pepper and. salt. Stir. the sorrel over a gentle fire for twenty minutes, and afterwards rub it patiently through a hair sieve. It may be served in the centre of a dish, with cutlets round it, or as an accompaniment to roast veal, lamb, or mutton. ‘Time to boil the sorrel,.a quarter of an hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. Sorrel, Purée of (another way).—Wash ‘and pick some sorrel and some cos or cabbage-. ‘lettuces, and put them into a stewpan with a little water: keep stirring with a spoon to pre- vent its burning; when melted lay it in a hair sieve to drain; then put it on the table, and chop it well with some trimmings of mushrooms. When chopped fine, put it into a stewpan with a little butter and a few small pieces of good ham ; let it fry a long time on the fire, in order to drain the water it contains. When it has become quite dry, mix it with four spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, or more if a large quantity is required, and let it stew for a long time over a small stove. After it has been constantly boil- ing for an hour, rub it through a tamis. If it should happen to be too thick, dilute it with -a little consommé or stéck broth, or Spanish sauce. If too acid, put in a little glaze and sugar. Always put cabbage-lettuce with the sorrel, to correct its acidity. When you make purée of sorrel, puf a spoonful of flour to thicken the sauce, and dilute with veal gravy, and then proceed as before. If you have no gravy of veal or of beef, two spoonfuls of broth and a small bit of glaze will answer the same purpose. Sorrel Salad.—Take a quart of fresh green sorrel; pick the leaves from the stalks, but on no account cut them; wash them well, and drain and dry them thoroughly. Pile them in a salad-bowl, and send any simple salad sauce to table with them. Sorrel Sauce.—Pick the stalks and large fibres from a quart of fresh green sorrel, wash it in several waters, drain it, and put it into ‘an enamelled saucepan with a slice of- fresh butter, and stew it gently till tender. Stir it well to keep it from burning. Drain it, and rub it through a coarse hair sieve, season with pepper and salt, and add half atea-spoontful of powdered sugar, the juice of half a lemon, if the sauce is for roast veal; or a spoonful or two of thick brown. sauce, if it is for roast meat; or a little cream, if wanted white for fowls. Serve when hot. Time, about a quarter of an hour. Sorrel Sauce (another way).—Take a few handfuls of sorrel leaves, wash them, and chop them small, adding a few chives or half a small onion. Put them with a piece of butter in a small casserole, cover it, and leave it to steam. Add enough broth or water thickened with a table-spoonful of flour. Boil the sauce till the sorrel softens. Add a grate of nutmeg and salt, SOR ( 899) SOU Sorrel Soup.—Take two or three handfuls of fresh green sorrel; pick the leaves from the stems, wash them in several waters, drain them, and put them into a stewpan with a slice of fresh butter. No liquor is required. Steam the leaves gently till quite tender. Dredge a little flour upon them, beat out all the lumps, and add about a quart of either white stock or water. Simmer for ten minutes. Whisk two | eggs lightly. Just before the soup is wanted put a little of the soup to the eggs, add the rest gradually, make hot again, but do not boil after the eggs are added. This is an acid soup. Sorrel Soup (a2 German recipe).—Take a good quantity of sorrel-leaves, pick them from the stems, and wash them well. Then put them into a stewpan to steam with a piece of butter— no water is needed. Stir constantly, and dredge in a table-spoonful or two of flour, unless the soup is to be clear. Add enough soup, already seasoned and flavoured. Serve with dice of toasted bread or sippets. Sorrel, Stewed (a la Francaise).—Take a peck of sorrel, fresh and green; pick off the stems, and wash the leaves in several waters; put them into a stewpan with a pint of boiling water in which a table-spoonful of salt has been dissolved, and let them boil quickly till tender. Some cooks put a shred lettuce and a little chervil into the saucepan with them. Drain the water from the sorrel, and rub it through a wire sieve. Put it into a saucepan, and mix with it two ounces of butter, a dessert- spoonful of flour, and a little pepper. Stir it over the fire till it boils. Cool, then add three spoonfuls of cream, or the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and serve with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters. Time to boil the sorrel, a quarter ofan hour. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Sorrel, Stewed (for fricandeaux, roasts, &c.).—Wash half a peck of picked sorrel-leaves in several waters, drain them on a sieve, and put them into an unglazed earthen jar in a very slow oven, and let them stew gently until quite tender. Mix an ounce of butter or a little salad-oil with them, add a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, and beat the leaves till smooth. Serve immediately. Souari, Swarrow, or Butter Nuts are brought from Demerara, and are highly esteemed on account of their pleasant flavour. They are obtained from a tree belonging to the walnut family called Caryocar butyrosum. Soubise Cutlets (sce Mutton Cutlets 4 la Soubise). Soubise Sauce (for roast mutton, boiled veal, and cutlets).—Peel four large onions, and cut them into thin slices ; sprinkle a little pepper and salt upon them, together with a small quantity of grated nutmeg; put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and steam gently till they are soft. They must not be allowed to acquire any colour. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour upon them, put a freshly- boiled mealy potato with them, and add half a pint of milk, or a quarter of a pint of white stock, and a quarter of a pint of cream. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is quite smooth, ‘rub it through a coarse sieve, pressing the onion . strongly, that none may remain behind; and, before serving, heat again without allowing it | to boil. Time, about an hour. Probable cost, '8d., if made with milk. Sufficient for four or five persons. ¢ ' Soubise Sauce (another way).—Peel a pound of onions, cut them into small dice, throw them into boiling water, and boil them quickly for five minutes. Drain them, and steam them softly with a slice of butter till they are soft. Stir into them as much white sauce as will make them of the consistency of thick cream. Press the sauce through a sieve, heat it again without allowing it to boil, and serve. Time, altogether, about an hour. Probable cost, 8d. .to 1s. if made with milk. Sufficient for five or six persons. Soubise Sauce (another way).—Take a dozen white onions. After having peeled and ‘washed them, cut them into halves, take off the tops and bottoms, mince them as fine as possible, and blanch them ‘to make them taste sweeter and take off the green colour. Then let them melt on a’ small stove with a little butter. ‘When they are thoroughly done, and no kind of moisture is left, mix four spoonfuls of bé- chamel. Season them well, rub the purée through a tamis, and keep the sauce hot, but without boiling. You must also put a small lump of sugar with the sauce if necessary. When you have the oven hot, put in the onions hermetically closed in a small stewpan, and let them simmer for one hour with a small bit of ham, This method gives a better flavour. Soubise Sauce, Brown.—Peel and wash twelve onions clean, then mince them, and fry them in a stewpan with a little butter till very brown. Moisten with some Spanish sauce, if you have any ; if not, sprinkle with two spoon- fuls of flour mixed with some veal or beef gravy. Skim the fat, season well with salt and pepper, and then strain the purée through an old tamis, for these sort of purées would destroy new ones, and will always leave the taste of onions. Soubise Sauce, Mutton Cutlets with.—Take a neck of mutton, and cut off the chops one by one without flattening them; cut off some of the flat bone at the extremity of the chops. Put them into a stewpan with all the parings of the onions to make the soubise. Season the whole well with carrots, a bunch of parsley, green onions, salt, and a very small quantity of spice, &c.; throw in four or five spoonfuls of good broth to braize them. When done, drain them, and let them cool. Strain the liquor through a silk sieve. Then reduce it to a glaze. Next pare the chops nicely, and put them with the glaze. This being completed, dish them miroton way, and pour the soubise or onion sauce into the middle. - Some persons take two necks of mutton, cut two bones to each chop, lard them with bacon, and braize them as above; but mutton, being in general fat, is better without being larded. With regard to the two bones, you must take SOU (900 ) sOoU care not to let them be too thick; if they are too thick you cannot dish them well. Soubise Sauce, Mutton Cutlets with (another and a better way).—Cut the mutton chops a little thicker than when you wish to broil them. Pare them nicely, and put them into a stewpan, where they may all lie flat. Put an onion or two, a few carrots, a little salt, a bundle of parsley and green onions seasoned, four or five spoonfuls of good consommé, and sweat the whole till it is entirely done. Then take out the roots, put in a little glaze, and reduce over a large fire. When entirely boiled down to a glaze, take them off the fire for a few minutes, let the cutlets settle in the glaze, take out the trimmings and vegetables, turn over the cutlets in the glaze, and take out the grease sx fat, lay them on a cover to drain the fat, and serve up before they can getdry. This method is preferable to the other. You must not in either case lard your chops with bacon. These cutlets may be served up with all sorts of purée of vegetables.— Soubise Sauce, Soubise Sauce). Soufflé.—Recipes for the following soufflés will be found under their respective head- ings :— Onion (see Onion APPLE GoosEBERRY APPLzes In Rice Grovunp Ricz APRICOT Lemon ARROWROOT Macaroon CuEEsE Fonpvr OmeELzr Corn-FLouR SovuFFLé Porato Puppine Porato-FLour Fruit Ric Ginerr SourrLé Puppine Ricr, Grounp. Souffld, Bread.—Take some milk, and “boil it with a little cream, giving the prepara- ‘tion any taste you please. Scoop out carefully the soft part of two or three rolls, rub the bread through a sieve, soak in the flavoured milk, and proceed as for potato soufflé (see Soufflé, Potato, . au Citron, and Soufflé, Orange-flower). Souffié, Carrot.—Make a thick purée of carrots, but instead of broth use water, in which put a little sugar, half a spoonful of flour, a little salt, and a good bit of butter; let all this boil till very thick, then add the yolks of four eggs, and mix all well together. The moment you are ready to send up, beat the whites of thé eggs, which throw in with the rest, and put into the oven for a proper time in the vessel which you wish to use. This soufilé is not in great favour, but it is good. 'Souffié, Coffee.—Melt two ounces of flour in a.stewpan, then add gradually and mix in smoothly six ounces of flour, a pinch of salt, half a pint of strong coffee, and half a pint of cream. When the mixture leaves the sides of the pan, cool, and add off the fire the yolks of six eggs and ten ounces of sugar. Whisk the whites of nine eggs till firm, stir them lightly ‘but thoroughly into the preparation, and finish as directed in Soufflés, Soufflé Dish. ~—lIllustrations representing an ornamental and a plain soufflé dish are given in connection with the article Apricot Soufflé (which see). Scufflé, Omelet.—Break two eggs, put the whites into one pan and the yolks into another; rasp a little lemon-peel or orange- flowers, beat the yolks well, add a little sugar and salt, and next beat the whites well to snow, and mix them with the yolks lightly. Then put a lump of butter into an omelet-pan on the tire ; when the butter is melted, pour the omelet into the pan; hold it over a slow fire for two thinutes, or until the underside is set, then put the omelet-pan into a very hot oven for about three minutes. When it is firm in the centre and lightly coloured it is sufficiently cooked. If left in the oven too long it will be tough and leathery. To this you may give whatever flavour you think proper, but the plainer the better when served very hot and very high; you may add to it some apricot jam. Loosen the edges of the omelet with a knife, turn it upside down on a hot dish, put a little jam made hot on it, fold it quickly half over, sift white sugar thickly on it, and serve imme- diately. Soufflé, Orange-flower.—Dilute a little flour with half cream and half milk; set this on the fire to boil; when the flour is done, put a little salt, « little sugar, and a small quantity of pounded orange-flowers; mix well, and then add a good bit of butter, the yolks of four eggs, and mix the whole well. Next beat the six whites and mix them with the rest; then bake the soufflé in the usual way, and when it is baked enough, glaze it, and send it up. Soufflé, Potato.—This dish has the double advantage of being excellent and economical. Take as many large potatoes as you expect guests for dinner. As the potatoes are to look well when cut, wash them well, and select the best shaped ; put them into the oven, and when done, cut them in half, so that the halves will stand, scoop out the inside with a spoon, and put it in a stewpan with two or three spoonfuls of double cream, a small bit of butter, a little salt, some sugar, a little lemon-peel rasped on sugar, three yolks of eggs, adding off the fire four frothed whites. Put this mixture into the hollow potatoes, placing them in rather a hot oven. Thetaste may sometimes be varied with lemon, orange-flower water, &c. This is a pretty dish. Apple soufflé may be prepared in the same way, excepting that the apples must not be baked previously to being filled with the ingredients, but merély cored and the interior scooped out, as above directed. ‘Soufflé, Potato (au Citron).—Bake a dozen potatoes in the oven; when they are well done, open them, scoop out the most floury part, and mix it with half a pint of cream that has boiled and in which you have infused the peel of a lemon; to this add a little sugar, a large bit of butter, and a little salt—the taste of the sugar, however, must predominate: yet observe that the less sugar you use the lighter the soufilés will be. Now break six eggs, throw the yolks of four only into the potatoes, beat the six whites, which pour gently with the SOU ‘('901)) sOU above preparation into a soufflé-dish, add to it an ounce of fresh butter, and put it into the oven, which must not be too hot. When the soufflé is done enough, powder a little sugar over it, and use the salamander. Soufilés must be served up the moment they are ready, for they are Hable to sink. Soufflé, Poulets (i la Créme), — This dish is to be made of the remnants of roasted chickens; take off the white flesh, mince it very small, and pound it in a mortar witha little béchamel, a good lump of fresh butter, and salt and pepper; with this mix the yolks of four eggs. Strain the whole through a tamis, or a hair sieve; then beat the whites of five eggs till made into a single body; mix these with the former preparation, and put the whole in the dish to rise, or in a crotitade that has been raised like the crust of a paté chaud (hot pasty). It will be done in a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, according to the quantity. It is to be observed, that if the oven is too hot, the outside of the souffié will be burnt, although the inside is not done enough. This, therefore, must be carefully attended to. Soufilé, Simple.—Sweeten and flavour a quarter of a pint of milk with lemon or vanilla, boil it, and stir into it quickly, when boiling, a table-spoonful of flour which has been smoothly mixed with another quarter of a pint of milk. Add a slice of fresh butter, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and stir the batter care- ' fully till it thickens, then pour it into a basin. When nearly cold, add a dessert-spoonful of brandy and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Butter a cake-tin or deep pie-dish which the batter will only half fill, and put it in the oven till hot. Beat the whites of three eggs to a firm froth, and stir them briskly into the batter. Spread a layer of jam at the bottom of the dish, pour in the batter, and bake in a moderate oven. ‘When the soufilé has risen high, and is nicely browned and firm throughout, it is done enough. Serve with the utmost expedition, or it will be spoiled. Time to bake the soufflé, about twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 10d. Suf- ficient for four or five persons. Soufflés.—A properly-made soufflé is light in appearance, delicate in flavour, as well as nourishing and easily digested. It is a little difficult to make; nevertheless, if the inexpe- rienced cook will follow closely the instructions here given, and be careful to allow the best in- gredients only to enter into its coniposition, she will soon acquire sufficient dexterity in making it to remove all fear of failure. All’ kinds of farinaceous substances may enter into the com- position of souffiés, but the process of their manufacture is always the same. They are in perfection only when served light and high, just as they come out of the oven, before they have had time to sink below the original level. In order to ensure this, the careful cook will hold a salamander or red-hot shovel over the soufflé till it reaches.the dining-room door. More important, however, than ‘this is, that she should have everything that she will require in readiness, as delay at the critical moment may spoil everything. A soufflé should be cooked in a soufflé-tin, which fits into a silver-plated ornamental dish, in which it can be sent to table. When thisis not at hand, a plain round or oval cake-tin, or thin basin, or a deep pie-dish may be used, with a high band of buttered writing-paper fastened inside the rim, to prevent the batter falling over the sides of the dish. A properly-folding case of frilled writing-paper should be prepared, into which it may be quickly dropped when taken from the oven. As the ingredients, with their proportions, are given under each recipe, it will only be necessary here to describe the general process of manufacture. Always remember that the number of whites of eggs should ex- ceed the number of yolks of eggs. Do not add the whites of the eggs until the last moment, and be careful that they are whisked separately to a very stiff froth, and then are stirred lightly into the soufflé. The success of the dishjde- pends in a great measure upon this part of the business being done thoroughly. Butter the tin, already lined with oiled writing-paper, and put it in the oven till very hot. Pour in the batter quickly, and place it in a moderate oven. The dish ought not to be more than half full. Move it about occasionally, that it may be equally baked. When it has risen to a good height, is brightly coloured, and quite set in the centre, it is done enough, and should be served immediately. Soufilés may be very gently steamed instead of being baked. They are generally handed round after the removes of the second course. As they are very good also for ordinary dinners, the inexperienced cook will find it well worth her while to perfect herself by practice in the art of making them, (See PrincirLes or Cookery, page iv.) Soup.—There is no part of cookery which is so imperfectly understood by ordinary cooks as the preparation of soup. Amongst the wealthy it is considered a necessity, and, as a matter of course, forms part of the dinner. Amongst the middle classes it is more usually served than it used to be, and is, year by year, increasingly appreciated; but amongst the lower classes it is all but scorned; and mis- tresses of small households will testify that the maid-of-all-work, who when at home is half starved instead of being properly fed, will con- sider herself most hardly used if part of the provision of the day’s dinner consists of a por- tion of wholesome soup. This opinion is, of course, a sign of ignorance. Soup is both nourishing and wholesome, and it may also be prepared economically. With attention and a little trouble, it may be made from very inex- pensive materials, and, considering that when soup has been served smaller inroads are made ~ into the joint, the frugal housekeeper who has once calculated the difference in cost of a dinner consisting of economically-made soup, meat, and vegetables, and one of meat and vegetables only, will never object to the intro- duction of soup at her table on account of the expense. Soup may be made of a largo variety of different articles, including meat of all kinds, bones, game, poultry, fish, shell-fish, all kinds of vegetables, herbs, and farinaceous articles, soU ( 902 ) sOoU milk, eggs, &c. &c. The basis of all soup is stock. Instructions in making this will be found in its proper place, and it will, therefore, | The reader will also‘ not be considered here. find most valuable hints for making stock and soups in the article on the PRINCIPLES oF Cooxery. Directions for making various soups will be found under their various headings, nevertheless it may be found useful if a few rules of universal application are here given as an assistance in their manufacture. There are three kinds of soups—clear soup, thick soup, and purées. A purée is made by rubbing the ingredients of which it is composed through a mis or sieve. A thick soup is stock thickened -by the addition of various thickening ingre- _dients. These soups are best suited to the winter season. Clear soup is thin and bright, and adapted for use in the summer months. In making soup it is most important that every culinary article used should be perfectly clean. The inside of the covers of saucepans, the rims, and the handles, particularly require attention. The lid of the saucepan should never be re- moved over a smoky fire. The meat used should be freshly-killed, and should be as lean as it can be procured; it should never be washed. The bones should be broken up into small pieces. Cold water should be put upon fresh meat and bones; boiling water (a small quantity at a time) upon meat or vegetables that have been fried or browned. As it is very important that no fatty particles should be left to float on the surface of the soup,this should be made, if possible, the day before it is wanted, so that the fat can be removed after it. has gone cold. If the soup has been thickened with white or brown roux it should be simmered by the side of the fire until it has thrown up the fat which the liquor still contains. Soup should be sim- -Mmered very softly till it is done enough. A large fire and quick boiling are the great enemies of good soup. In flavouring soup the cook should be careful to add the seasoning ingredients in moderation and gradually, es- pecially such things as garlic, onions, shallots, spices, herbs, salt, and cayenne. An overdose of salt has spoilt many a dish of soup, while a deficiency thereof has again and again nullified the effect of the most delicate combination of flavours. As a general rule, two ounces of salt will suffice for a gallon of soup stewed with large quantities of vegetables; an ounce and a half only will be needed if the vegetables are omitted, or if a small quantity only is used. It should be remembered that salt and all season- ings can be added when they cannot be taken out. For flavouring purposes, Aromatic Sea- soning of Herbs and Spices, and Herb-powder for Flavouring Soups, will be found of great use. Whatever ingredients are added to soup, whether farinaceous articles, such as rice, vermicelli, macaroni, &c., or vegetables, all should be partially boiled in plain water before they are put into the liquor. This will ensure their being perfectly clean and bright. The , flavour of rich brown soups will be brought: out ‘better if a small piece of sugar be added to it. “This must not be used for white soups. Cream or milk when put with soups should be boiled separately, strained, and added boiling. If, well skimmed with a wooden spoon. instead of cream, milk and the yolk of an egg are used, the egg must on no account be boiled in the liquor. Kither it must be mixed tho- roughly with a little of the soup which has cooled for a minute, then be stirred into the rest; or, better still, it must be put into the soup-tureen, a spoonful of the soup mixed with the milk stirred into it, and the rest added gradually. If soups are to be kept for a day or two, they should be boiled up every day, or every other day, according to the state of the weather, put into freshly-scalded dry earthen- ware pans, and kept in acool place. A piece of gauze may be thrown over the pan to keep out dust and flies. ' Soup should never be kept in metal vessels, and it should be stirred and It should always be served as hot as possible. Soup, Cheshire.—The following isa,very old Cheshire recipe for a good and inexpensive soup. It dates back as far as the sixteenth century. Put a hock of beef into a gallon of cold water, simmer it gently for six hours, taking care that it is well skimmed. Put in some thyme, sweet marjoram, and celery, all tied in a bunch, as also a couple of onions cut fine. Skim off all the fat, and season with pepper and salt and a little ketchup. By omitting the above seasoning, this soup may be turned into all kinds of soups, by adding the vegetables to give the flavour required. Soup Flavouring, Onions for (see Onions, Coloured, for Soup Flavouring). Soup for Children, Liebig’s.—This ‘preparation, which is hardly entitled to the name of soup, as the word is generally under- stood in this country, is made in the following manner:—Take one ounce (one large table- spoonful) of seconds flour, and mix it smoothly and carefully with ten ounces of cold skimmed milk until the whole is smooth; add seven and a half grains of bicarbonate of potash dissolved in a tea-spoonful of-water (if sixty grains of the potash be dissolved in one ounce of water, one tea-spoonful must be used at a time)} and then heat it gently till it reaches the boiling point, and keep it boiling for five minutes. Stir the preparation well whilst it is being heated; add to the whole one ounce (one large dessert- spoonful) of malt flour (malt ground in a coffee- mill, and sieved) mixed with two ounces of water, and stir it well. Cover the pan, and let it stand for half an ‘hour in water which is nearly boiling, so as to keep the soup warm; then strain through a fine sieve, and bottle it. This quantity is enough for a day's supply for a child under two years of age. A qi of milk should be added to the soup. Soup, Macaroni, Grain Balls for.— Roll out some macaroni paste very thin, cut it into small squares dry and stiff enough to be rubbed through a grater. Soup Tablets.—In the following recipe we have described how to make the soup tablets which were so much used by the German army during the Franco-German war. Take eleven parts by weight of good suet, melt it in an iron pan, and make it very hot, so as to become brown; add, while keeping the fat stirred, SOU (963 ) sOoU eighteen parts of rye-meal, and continue heat- ing and stirring, so as to make the mass brown; add then four parts of dried salt and two parts of coarsely pulverised caraway-seeds. The mix- ture is then ce into tin pans somewhat like those used for making chocolate into cakes. The cakes have the appearance of chocolate, and are chiefly intended for the use of soldiers when in the field. A quantity of about an ounce of this preparation is sufficient to yield, when boiled with some water, aration of good soup, and in case of need, the cakes being agreeable to the taste, may be eaten raw. Soup Without Stock.—Cut a good-sized cabbage, put it in a stewpan with some carrots, onions, celery, and the bone of a leg of mutton or rib of beef from which all the meat has been taken. Add a quart of water, and let all simmer together for five hours. Then strain the soup, and take off any fat. which may still float on it. Pick out the best pieces of cabbage, put them into the soup, season with pepper and salt, make quite hot, and serve. Soups and Broths.— Recipes for the following soups and broths will be found under their respective headings :— ALMOND Cock-a-LEEKIE APPLE + Cocoa-NUT ARTICHOKE, JERUSA- COoDLING LEM Concer EEL ASPARAGUS CotTacE Asparacus, ALLEMAND CoTTaGE, BaxEn BaRLEY Cras Brrr, Roast, anD CRAYFISH Boitep TuRKEY Cream or Rice Beer, SHIN oF Cressy BEER Duck-GrBLet Beer, witH CaRraway- Ex SEEDS Eri, Brown Beer, with Mitx Ee., WHITE Brer, WITH Saco Ecc, BARLEY BEETROOT FAMILY Bovitie A BatssE Fisu BREAD-CRUSTS GRILLED For Soup BreaD FRIED FoR Brotu, StTRENGTHEN- Fisu, Brown Fish QUENELLES Fisu Stock Fisu, WHITE ING Fisu, witH Potators Brown FIsHERMAN’S CABBAGE Forcemeat Batts For Mock TurtLe Forcremeat ror Fisu, Catr's-root Brotu Catr’s-root Soup Carr’s Heap Soups, &c. Catr’s Hzap, Mock Friar’s Cuicken TuRTLE Frvuit,Sovur or CHEESE- Carror GOURD Carrot, Maicre Fruir, Seriva CAULIFLOWER GamE CELERY GARBURE CHANTILLY GERMAN ‘CuEEsz,witHoutMzar GrrmMan ASPARAGUS CHERRY German Broru, or CHESTNUT WintEeR Horcu- Cuicken Brotu POTCH Curcxen Sour GIBLET Gistzt, Duck GiBLET, GERMAN Gooss Gravy, Brown, FRoM Bonzs CLam CLEAR Cuzar, From BonrEs Crzar, rrom Fresu Meat Gravy, WHITE, FoR Fisu Green Corn Green Pza Green Pra; Eanty Spring — Green Pra, Matore GREENING FOR Grouse Guinea Fown Hanpock HAkE Harz Hang, JucaED Harz, Mock Hare, Superior HERB Hesstan Hessian anv Racotr Hotcn-rorcu Hortcx-rorcu, Mutton Horcu-rotcu,Ox-Tarn Horcu-porcu, Scorcn Horcu-porcu, WinTER Hunter’s ImMPEerrau Inpian Mu.nuica- TAWNY ‘ Invauip’s Irisu, on Batwamoon Sx1nk Irautan Macaronr. Irattan Porace INIERE LIENNE ALE Brosk IDNEY - i LEExs Lerxs,; or Cocxk-a- LEEKIE Lrrexs and Potato, MaicRE Lenvin Liesie’s Extract Liesie’s, FoR CuIL- DREN Liver K1éssz, For Loxster Logster AND PRAWN Losgster with Minx Lorne Macaronr Macaroni Sovp, Iratian Marrow Dump.Lincs Mea MerILEEs MeERvVEILLE Mitk Mix, GERMAN Mocx TurriLe Mock Turrie, Forcr- MEAT BALLS FOR Monastery WINE Moor Game MUurLLaGaTAWNY MuLLAGATAWNY, Catr’s Heap MvULLAGATAWNY, Fowz MuULLAGATAWNY, RauBit Muuagatawny, VE- GETABLE a Musszu Murton Broru .Murron Brorx (In- VALID CooKERY) - Murron Brotu, Mocx Murron Brotu Nov- BISHING Murron . Broru, - Quickiy MapE Mutton Brorn, Scorcx Mourron Hotcu-rotcu Neat’s Foor Nettie Tors NovILuEs OnIon Onion, Brown Onton, Marcre Onions, Burnt ror Ontons, CoLOURED FOR Ox CHEEK Ox Tarn, CLEAR : Ox Tas, Tuck OvstTER Oyster, Economican Oyster, Rico PALESTINE PaNnaDA PancakEs PANKAIL PARMESAN Sour Parsnirs PaRTRIDGES Pras Pras, GREEN Pzas, Grezn, Econo- MICAL Pras, GREEN, WITH- out Meat Pzas, Nurrittve Pro- PERTIES OF . Pras, QuickKLy AND Eastty Mave Pzas Sour, To Fra- VOUR PHEASANT PIGEON Poor Man’s Poor May’s,. KrIToHINER’s PortTAaBLE Poracz A La CotzERt Poracs A ta Conpit Potacse A La Crrcy Porace A LA Rewer Porace A LA XAVIER PoTAGE BisauE PoraGE DE VEAU Porato Porato A LA Crime - Potato anp Leek Pot-avu-FEU Por-au-rgu, ANALYSIS OF THE Por-av-rnu, au Bain Maris ms Por-avu-rzy, HOLD AND Dr. Hovst- “(904 ) s0oU soU Prawn Rice ror CHILDREN Prince’s Ricz, SuPERIoR ‘ProvengaL Poracz Rice, WuiTE Prussian Rice, Royan PumPxin Rice Stew QUEEN’S Roots, EssEnce oF Russian CABBAGE Russian Saco SaLMon Sanrt, Porace DE Scotcu BrotH Scorcu Katz SEMOLINA Suerp’s Heap Surimp anp Tomato QUENELLES, FOR TurtLE Sour QUENELLES, FOR Wuitr anp CLEAR Sour . Rasgzit, SUPERIOR Rasuit, Upz’s Rassit, WHITE Rasnuits, WILD, Stock Brot rrom Ravioutr SKATE Ray SorreEL REGENT’S SPANISH Restorative Brotus SpPanisH CHEstNuT RuvuBars Spinacu RHUBARB, SWEET Spring Rice anp Eee, DanisH Srock Riczr anp GREEN Pea, SupERLATIVE Frencu Tapioca Rice anp ONION ToncuE Rice anp PumPpxKIn Tomato Rice anp Vest BrotH Tscut, on Rvusstan Rick anp VEAL Soup) TurKEy Rice-FLouR TurRNIP RickE-FLOUR, FOR TurRTLE THICKENING Uncrounp Corn Rice, (A Danisu RE- Vean CIPE) ‘VEGETABLE Rice, Ivarian VEGETABLE Marrow Ricr, CREAM oF ‘VENISON Ricz, MADE FROM VERMICELLI Fresh Meat WHITE Soups and Broths, Dr. Kitchiner on.—The cook must pay particular attention to her stewpans, soup-kettles, &c., which should be examined every time they are used. The prudent housewife will carefully examine the condition of them herself at least once a month. Their covers also must be kept perfectly clean and well tinned, and the stewpans not only on the inside but about a couple of inches on the outside; many mischiefs arise from their getting out of repair, and if not kept nicely tinned all your good work will be in vain, the broths and soups will look green and dirty, taste bitter and poisonous, and will be spoiled both for the eye and palate, and your credit will be lost. The health and even life of the family depends upon this, and the cook may be sure her employers had rather pay the tinman’s pill than the doctor's; therefore attention to this cannot fail to engage the regard of the mistress. If a servant has the misfortune to scorch or blister the tinning of her pan—which will sometimes happen to the most careful cook —I advise her by all means immediately to acquaint her employers, who will thank her cor- dially for mentioning an accident, and censure her deservedly if she conceal it. Take care to be properly provided with sieves and tamis cloth, spoons and ladles; make it a rule without an excoption never to use them till they are well cleaned and thoroughly dried, nor any stewpans, &c., without first washing them out with boiling water, and rubbing them well with a dry cloth and a little bran, to clean them from grease, sand, &c., or any bad smell they may have got since they were last used: never neglect this. Though we do not suppose our cook to be such a naughty slut as to wilfully neglect hez broth-pots, &., yet we may recommend her to | wash them immediately, and take care they are thoroughly dried at-the fire before they are put by, and to keep them in a dry place, for damp will rust and destroy them very soon— attend to this the first moment you can spare after the dinner is sent up. Never put by any soup, gravy, &c., in metal utensils; in which never keep anything longer than is absolutely necessary for the purposes of cookery—the acid, vegetables, fat, &c., em- ployed in making soups, &c., are capable of dissolving such utensils, therefore stone or earthen vessels should be used for this purpose. Stewpans, soup-pots, and preserving-pans, with thick and round bottoms (such as sauce- pans are made with) will wear twice as long, and are cleaned with half the trouble, as those whose sides are soldered to the bottom, of which sand and grease get into the joined part, and cooks say that it is next to an impossibility to dislodge it, even if their nails are as long as Nebuchadnezzar’s. Take care that the lids fit as close as pos- sible, that the broth, soup, and sauces, &c., may not waste by evaporation. They are good for nothing unless they fit tight enough to keep the steam in and the smoke out. Stewpans and saucepans should be always bright on the upper rim, where the fire does not burn them; but to scour them all over is not only giving the cook needless trouble, but wearing out the vessels. Cultivate habits of regularity, cleanliness, &c., in all your business, which you will then get through easily and comfortably ; I do not mean the restless spirit of Molidusta, “the tidy one,” who is anon, anon, sir, frisking about in a whirlpool of bustle and confusion, and is always dirty—under pretence of being always cleaning. Lean juicy beef, mutton, or veal, form the basis of broth; procure those pieces which af- ford the richest succulence, and as fresh killed as possible. Stale meat will make broth grouty and bad tasted, and fat meat is wasted. This only ap- plies to those broths which are required to be perfectly clear. Fat and clarified drippings may be so combined with vegetable mucilage as to afford, at the small cost of one penny per quart, a nourishing and palatable soup, fully adequate to satisfy appetite and support strength —this will open a new source to those benevo- lent housekeepers who are disposed to relieve the poor ; will show the industrious classes how much they have it in their power to assist themselves, and rescue them from being objects of charity, dependent on the precarious bounty of others, by teaching them how they may ob- tain a cheap, abundant, salubrious, and agree- able aliment for themselves and families. This soup has the advantage of being very easily and very soon made, with no more fuck SOU ( 905 ) s0U thar. is necessary to warm a room; those who have not tasted it cannot imagine what a salu- brious, savoury, and satisfying meal is pro- duced by the judicious combination of cheap homely ingredients. The following are the chief broth-herbs, soup- roots, and seasonings :— Scorcu BarLey Peart BarLey Friovur PARSLEY Common TuyME Lemon THyMe OaTMEAL Orancr THymME BreaD Kyorrep Marsoram RasPiInG Sacr Pgas Mint BEANS Wounter Savory Rice Sweet Bast VERMICELLI Bay-LEAVES Macaroni Tomato IsineLass TAaRRAGON Porato MuctLacE Cuervin MusHrooms BurRNET CHAMPIGNONS ALLSPICE Parsnies CrnnaMon CaRROoTS _GINGER BrEEtTROOTS NutTMeG -TuRNIPS CLOVE 2 *GARLIC Mace SHALLOTS Buacx PEPPER ONIONS LEMON-PEEL LEExs Wuirtrt Peprer CucumMBER LEMOoN-JUICE CELERY SEVILLE ORANGE- Cetery SEED JUICE Cress SEED Essence oF ANCHOVY. The above materials, wine and mushroom ketchup, combined in various proportions, will make an endless variety of excellent broths and soups, quite as pleasant to the palate, and as useful and agreeable to the stomach, as con- suming pheasants and partridges, and the long list of inflammatory, piquant, and rare and -costly articles recommended by some people whose elaborately compounded soups are like their made dishes, in which, though variety is aimed at, everything has the same taste, and nothing its own. The general fault of our English soups seems to be the employment of an excess of spice, and too small a portion of roots and herbs. ‘‘ Point de légumes, point de cuisiniére,” is a favourite culinary adage of the French kitchen, and deserves to be so; a better soup may be made with a couple of pounds of meat and plenty of vegetables than our com- mon cooks will make you with four times that quantity of meat; all for want of knowing the uses of soup-roots, and sweet and savoury herbs. Besides the ingredients J have enumerated, many indiscriminately cram into almost every dish (in such inordinate quantities one would suppose they were working for the asbestos palate of an Indian fire-eater), anchovies, garlic, bay-leaves, and that hot fiery spice, cayenne pepper; this, which the French call (not undeservedly) piment enrage, has some- how or other undoubtedly acquired a character for being very wholesome, whilst the milder peppers and spices are cried down, as destroying the sensibility of the palate and stomach, &c., and being the source of a thousand mischiefs. We should just as soon recommend alcohol as being less intoxicating than wine. ’ The best thing that has been said in praise of peppers is, “that with all kinds of vege- tables, as also with soups (especially vege- table soups) and fish, either black or cayenne pepper may be taken freely; they are the most useful stimulants to old stomachs, and often supersede the cravings for strong drinks, or diminish the quantity otherwise required.” A certain portion of condiment is occasionally serviceable to excite and keep up the languid action of feeble and advanced life; we must increase the stimulus of our aliment as the inirritability of our system increases. We leave these who love these things to use them as they like; their flavours can be very ex- temporaneously produced by chilli-juice, or essence of cayenne, shallot wine, and essence of anchovy. There is no French dinner without soup, which is regarded as an indispensable overture ; it is commonly followed by “le coup d’aprés,” a glass of pure wine, which they consider so wholesome after soup, that their proverb says, the physician thereby loses a fee. Whether the glass of wine be so much more advantageous for the patient than it is for his doctor, we know not, but believe it an excellent plan to begin the banquet with a basin of good soup, which, by moderating the appetite for solid animal food, is certainly a salutiferous custom. We again caution the cook to avoid over- seasoning, especially with predominant flavours, which, however agreeable they may be to some, are extremely disagreeable to others. Cavice, coratch, anchovy, curry-powder, savoury ragott powder, soup-herb powder, browning, ketchups, pickle-liquor, beer, wine, sweet herbs, and savoury spice, are very convenient auxiliaries to finish soups, &c. The proportion of wine (formerly sack, then claret, now madeira or port) should not exceed a large wine-glassful to a quart of soup. This is as much as can be admitted without the vinous flavour becoming remarkably predomi- nant, though not only much larger quantities of wine (of which claret is incomparably the best, because it contains less spirit and more flavour, and English: palates are less acquainted. with it), but even véritable eau de vie is ordered in many books, and used by many— especially tavern—cooks. So much are their soups overloaded with relish, that if you will eat enough of them, they will certainly make you intoxicated, if they don’t make you sick. All this frequently arises from an old cook mea- suring the excitability of the eaters’ palates by his own, which may be so blunted by inces- sant tasting, that to awaken it requires wine instead of water, and cayenne and garlic for black pepper and onion. Old cooks are as fond of spice as children are of sugar, and season soup which is intended to constitute the principal part of a meal as highly as sauce of which only a spocnful may be relish enough for a plate of insipid viands. How- ever, we fancy these large quantities of wine, &c., are oftener ordered in cookery-books than used in the kitchen—practical cooks have the health of their employers too much at heart, aeee SoU { 906 ) sou and love “sauce @ la langue” too well to over- wine their soups, &c. Truffles and morels are also set down as a part of most recipes. These in their green state have a very rich high flavour, and are delicious additions to some dishes, or sent up as a stew by themselves when they are fresh and fine; but in this state they are not served up half a dozen times in a year at the first tables in the kingdom. When dried they become mere “chips in pottage,” and serve only to soak up good gravy—from which they take up more taste than they give. The art of composing a rich soup is so to proportion the several ingredients one to another that no particular taste be stronger than the rest, but to produce such a fine har- monious relish that the whole is delightful. This requires that judicious combination of the materials which constitute the chef d’auvre of culinary science. In the first place, take care that the roots and herbs be perfectly well cleaned; proportion the water to the quantity of meat and other ingredients—generally a ound of meat to a quart of water for soups, and double that quantity for gravies. If they stew gently, little more water need be put in at first than is expected at the end—for when the pot is covered quite close, and the fire gentlo, very little is wasted. Gentle stewing is incomparably the best—the meat is more tender and the soup better flavoured. It is of the first importance that the cover of a soup-kettle should fit very close, or the broth will evaporate before you are aware of it. The most essential parts are soon evaporated by quick boiling, without any -benefit, except to fatten the fortunate cook who inhales them. An evident proof that these exhalations possess the most restorative qualities is, that the cook, ‘ who in general is the least eater, is as gene- * rally the fattest person in the family—from con- -‘tinually being surrounded by the quintessence ‘of all the food she dresses, whereof she sends to her master only the fibres and calcinations, ‘who is consequently thin, gouty, and the victim .of diseases arising from insufficient nourish- ment. It is not only the fibres of the meat . which nourish us, but the juices they contain, . and these are not only extracted, but exhaled, : if it be boiled fast in an open vessel. A suc- culent soup can never be made but in a well- closed vessel, which preserves the nutritive parts by preventing their dissipation. This is a fact of which every intelligent person will soon perceive the importance. Place your soup-pot over a moderate fire, which will make the water hot without causing it to boil, for at least half an hour. If the water boils immediately, it will not penetrate the meat and cleanse it from the clotted blood and other matters which ought to go off in scum; the meat will be hardened all over by violent heat, will shrink up as if it were scorched, and give hardly any gravy. On the contrary, by keeping the water a certain time heating without boil- ing, the meat swells, becomes tender, its fibres are dilated, and it yields a quantity of scum, which must be taken off as soon as it appears. It is not till after a good half hour’s hot infusion that we may mend the fire and make the pot boil; still continue to remove the scum, and when no more appears, put in the vege- tables, &c., and a little salt. These will cause more scum to rise, which must be taken off immediately, then cover the pot very closely, and place it at a proper distance from the fire, where it will boil very gently, and equally, and by no means fast. . By quick and strong boiling the volatile and finest parts of the ingredients are evaporated, and fly off with the steam, and the coarser parts are rendered soluble; so you lose the good and get the bad. Soups will generally take from three to six hours. ' Prepare your broths and soups the evening before you want them. This will give you more time to attend to the rest of your dinner the next day; and when the soup is cold the fat may be much more easily and completely removed from the surface of it; when you de- cant it, take care not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the vessel, which are so fine that they will escape through a sieve, or even through a tamis, which is the best strainer. The soups appear smoother and finer, and it is much easier cleaned than any sieve. If you strain it while it is hot, pass it through a clean tamis or napkin previously soaked in cold water—the coldness of this will coagulate the fat, and only suffer the pure broth to pass through. The full flavour of the ingredients can only be extracted by very long and slow simmering, during which take care to prevent evaporation by covering the pot as close as possible. The best stew-pot is a “‘ digester.” Clear soups must be perfectly transparent, thickened soups about the consistence of rich cream; and remember that thickened soups require nearly double’the quantity of seasoning. The piquance of spice, &c., is as much blunted by the flour and butter as the spirit of rum is by the addition of sugar and acid; so they are less salubrious, without being more savoury, from the additional quantity of spice, &c., that is smuggled into the stomach. To thicken and give body to soups and sauces the following materials are used—they must be gradually mixed with the soup till thoroughly incorporated with it, and it should have at least half an hour’s gentle simmering after; if it is at all lumpy, pass it through a tamis or a ‘fine sieve—bread-raspings, bread, isinglass, potato-mucilage, fat-skimmings znd | flour, or flour and butter, or flour, barley, rice, or oatmeal and water rubbed well together. To their very rich gravies, &c., the French add the white meat of partridges, pigeons, or fowls, pounded to a pulp and rubbed through a sieve; a piece of beef which has been boiled to make broth pounded in like manner with a bit of butter and flour, and gradually incorporated with the gravy or soup, will be found a satisfac- tory substitute for these more expensive articles. Meat from which broth has been made, and all its juice has been extracted, is then excel- lently well prepared for potting, and is quite as good or better than that which has been baked till it is dry ; indeed, if it be pounded and sea- soned in the usual manner it will be an elegant SOU (907: ) SOW and savoury luncheon or supper, and costs nothing but the trouble of preparing it, which " is very little, and a relish is procured for sand- -wiches, &c., of what has heretofore been by the «poorest housekeeper considered the perquisite of the cat. ~ Keep some spare broth, lest your soup-liquor waste in boiling and gct too thick, and for gravy for your. made dishes, various sauces, &c., for many of which it is a much better basis than melted butter. The soup of mock-turtle and the other thickened soups will supply you with a thick gravy sauce for poultry, fish, ragotits, &c., and by a little management of this sort you may generally contrive to have plenty of good gravies and good sauces with very little trouble or expense. If soup is too thin or too weak, take off the cover of your soup-pot and let it boil till some of the watery part of it has evaporated, or else add some of the thickening materials we have before mentioned; and have at hand some plain browning. This simple preparation is much better than the compounds bearing that name, as it colours sauce or soup without much inter- fering with its flavour, and is a much better : way of colouring them than burning thesurface © pg put into small bottles, stoppered closely, and of the meat. ‘When soups and gravies are kept from day to | day in hot weather they should be warmed up every day, and put into fresh-scalded tureens or pans, and placed in a cool cellar; in tem- perate weather every other day may be enough. ‘We hope we have now put the common cook. - into possession of the whole arcana of soup- making, without much trouble to herself, or expense to her employers; it need not be said ! to make soup in his stomach, by swilling down ¥ a large quantity of ale or porter, to quench the ; thirst occasioned by the meat he eats. John Bull may now make his soup secundum artem, and save his principal viscera a great deal of : trouble. ‘.. I conclude these remarks with observing that some persons imagine that soup tends to relax the stomach. So far from being prejudicial, we consider the moderate use of such liquid nourish- inent to-be highly salutary. Does not our food and drink, even though cold, become ina few minutes a kind of warm soup in the stomach? and therefore soup, if not eaten too hot, or in too great a quantity, and of proper quality, is attended with great advantages, especially to those who drink but little. Warm fluids, in the form of soup, unite with our juices much sooner and better than those that are cold and raw; on this account restora- tive soup is the best food for those who are en- feebled by disease or dissipation; and for old people, whose teeth and digestive organs are impaired— a 4 “ Half subtilised to chyle—the liquid food Readiest obeys th’ assimilating powers.” After catching cold, in nervous headaches, colics, indigestion, and different kinds of cramps and spasms in the stomach,- warm broth is of excellent service. After intemperate feasting, to give the stomach a holiday for a (in future that an Englishman only knows how I day or two by a diet on mutton broth or vege- table soup, &c., is the best way to restore its tone. The stretching any power to its utmost extent weakens it. If the stomach be every day obliged to do as much as it can, it will every day be able to do less. A wise traveller will never force his horse to perform as much as he can in one day upon a long journey. _ Soups, Forcemeat for (see Forcemeat for Fish, Soups, or Stews). Soups, Greening for (see Greening for Soups). Soups, Herb-powder for Flavour- ing.—As it is not always possible to obtain fresh herbs, the cook will find it a convenience to have the following herbs powdered, stored, and ready to use in flavouring. For this pur- pose the recipe for the Aromatic Seasoning of Herbs and Spices will also be found useful; but those who object to the flavour of spices, and prefer that of herbs only, will find that the following recipe will suit them best :—The herbs should be procured fresh, dried in a warm but not too hot oven, pounded in « mortar, and passed through a wire sieve. The powder should then kept in « dry place. It will retain its flavour for several months. The proportions are as follows:—Two ounces of sweet marjoram, two ounces of winter savory, two ounces of dried parsley, two ounces of. lemon-thyme, a quarter of an ounce of bay-leaves, a quarter of an ounce of celery-seed, an ounce of sweet basil, and an ounce of lemon-peel. ' Soups, Onions Burnt for (see Onions Burnt for Soups and Gravies). ‘ Sour Sauce for Fish.—Heat a quarter of a pint of good vinegar, stir into it half a tea- spoonful of made mustard, a little pepper, and a slice of fresh butter. Serve when the butter is dissolved. Souse Pudding.—Take two eggs, with their weight in flour and sugar. Whisk the eggs with the sugar, and when the puddings are about to be put into the oven, add the flour. Beat the mixture till it is light, frothy, and perfectly smooth, put it into small buttered cups, and bake these in a moderate oven. When done enough, turn the puddings out carefully, sift sugar over them, and serve. A little fla- vouring will be an agreeable addition. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Sowens.—Sowens is one of the national dishes of Scotland, made from the husk of the oat (called in Scotland seeds). These seeds con- tain'a good deal of farinaceous matter after they are separated from the oatmeal, and this matter is converted into a very nourishing and palatable article of food. In some of the northern towns of Scotland thin sowens are drunk on New Year’s Day morning; while “‘but- tered sowens wi’ fragrant lunt” is in rural districts the supper for Hallow-Eve. This dish is known in England, Wales, and Ireland as “flummery.” It is very good eaten cold, and will turn out in a shape, making a kind of oat- meal jelly. To prepare it, soak any quantity of oatmeal seeds in a tub or large jar, and pour SOW upon it twice its bulk in lukewarm water. Leave it for three or four days in a warm place till it turns sour. Pass the whole through a sieve, and squeeze the seeds, moistening them with a little of the liquor, to get all the goodness out of them. Let the liquor thus obtained stand till the starchy matter it contains sinks to the bottom; then pour it off, and add fresh cold water. When the sowens are wanted, pour off the water, and mix as much of the starchy sediment with water as will thin it; put a little salt into it, and boil it, stirring briskly all the time till it thickens. Pour it into a deep bowl, and serve with wine, beer, or milk. Sowens thus made will keep good for a week or more ‘in winter. If a little that has turned sour be mixed with that which is to be freshly made, it will facilitate its preparation. Time, fifteen to twenty minutes to thicken the sowens. Sowens, English. — Markham, in his “English Housewife” (1653), describes a food called wash-brew, eaten in England, made of the very small oatmeal, by frequent steeping of it, and then boiling it into a jelly, to be eaten with honey, milk, wine, or ale, according to taste. ‘‘T have,” says he, “seen them of sickly and dainty stomachs which have eaten great quantities thereof, beyond the proportion of ordinary meats.” “The Scotsman,” remarks Dr. Chambers, commenting on this passage, “can be at no loss to recognise in this description the sowens of his native land, a dish formerly prevalent among the peasantry, but now com- paratively little known. To illustrate Mark- ham’s remark as to the quantity of this mess that could be eaten, the writer may adduce a fact related to him by his grandmother, who was the wife of an extensive store-farmer in Peebleshire, from 1768 to 1780. A new plough- man had been hired for the farm. On the first evening, coming home just after the sowens had been prepared, but when no person was present in the kitchen, he began with one of the cogs or bowls, went on to another, and in a little time had despatched the very last of the series ; after which he coolly remarked to the maid, at that moment entering the house, ‘ Lass, I wish you would to-morrow night make my sowens all im one dish, and not in drippocks and drappocks that way !’” Soy.—This is*a kind of sauce prepared in China and Japan from a small bean, the pro- duce of Dolichos soja. It is used with fish and other articles of diet. In choosing soy, see that it is of a good flavour, not too salt nor too sweet, of a good thick consistence, a brown colour, and clear. When shaken in a glass, it should leave a coat on the surface of a bright yellowish-brown colour; if it do not, it is an inferior sort, and should be rejected. Chinese soy is considered inferior to that of Japan. Soy, Chinese Preparation of.—Equal quantities of beans and wheat are boiled to- gether, and then triturated between stones, water being added occasionally. The mass is cooked in a pan, and cut into thin slices, which are kept covered with straw for about twenty days. When completcly fermented, the separate slices having become mouldy, they are washed with water, placed ina vessel, and their weight of ( 908 ) SOY water and salt added. In this condition they are kept for a number of days, and are finally again triturated between stones. Soy, Chinese (another way) .—Thirty-tive : pounds of the shelled pulse are washed in cold water, and boiled in water enough to cover them until they are sufficiently tender, which is ascer- tained by squeezing them between the finger and thumb. This requires only a few minutes to effect. They are then drained in a sieve, but, whilst still wet, are mixed with a portion of meal made of the same pulse, ground, and which an Anglo-Indian, if he were here to see it, would immediately pronounce to be “ ground gram.” In this meal they are stirred until the surface of each bean is covered. The mass is now laid upon mats to the thickness of about two inches, and the beans are left to dry until the surface of the mass begins to appear mouldy. They are then dried by gradual heat in slow stoves, until they can bear the stroke of a maliet, when they are rubbed with the hand or with a hard brush to free them from the meal. Earthen pans, ready prepared, now receive them in equal portions;.and a pickle is made with twenty pounds of salt dissolved in five times its weight of water, which is equally divided amon the pans. These are now carefully covered, and kept, during six weeks or more, in a place where the temperature is nearly 100° Fahren- heit. When at length the soluble part of the beans—-the part that constitutes the soy—is- extracted, this being ascertained by the dark brown colour of the liquid in the pans, the liquid is poured off, and boiled down to the proper consistence. This, however, is not effected until after repeated boilings, during which a quantity of moist sugar, ginger, mace, and black pepper are added in quantities according to the taste of the manufacturers, each having his own peculiar ideas of flavour- ing, which constitutes the difference between the several manufactories. After tho last boil- ing, the soy is allowed to stand a few days, then strained, and put into flasks for sale. Soy, Japanese.—The beans are first washed, then boiled with water enough to cover them until they are tender. They are then mashed in a mortar and mixed with their weight of coarse barley-meal. This mixture, being closely covered, is then placed in a warm situ- ation, and left to ferment. When the mass is sufficiently fermented, 2 weight of salt, equal to that of the beans originally, is dissolved in five times its weight of water, and added to the fermented mass, and is strongly stirred in it. The whole being well covered, it remains in this state during three months, being daily agitated and beaten during two hours, after which it is again covered. It is then strained through cotton cloth, which is well pressed until every drop of liquid has passed through. The soy is now put into wooden tubs, when age fines it, After a time, when it is sufficiently clear, it is racked off, and put into smaller wooden vessels for sale. Meanwhile, more water is poured upon the mass that remains after the straining, and soy of an inferior kind is made. Though there is no spice, nor other seasoning but salt, in the Japanese soy, it is far SPA (909 ) SPA preferable to that of China, and is free from the sweet treacly flavour which distinguishes the latter. — Spanish Buns.—Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, a little grated nutmeg and pow- dered cinnamon, and also six table-spoonfuls _of powdered sugar. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and work them into a paste with four well-beaten eggs. Drop the mixture in knobs upon a floured tin, and bake these until done enough. When half-baked, brush the surface with milk. If liked, half a pound of currants may be added to the buns, and then an additional egg or a little milk will be required. Time to bake the buns, about twenty minutes. Spanish Buns (another way)——Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, and the eighth of a nutmeg grated. Beat four eggs thoroughly, and work them into the mixture with two table-spoonfuls of rose- water and as much milk as will form a thick batter. Knead into this a quarter of a pint of yeast, cover the bowl, and leave the dough on the hearth all night. The next morning knead it again, and let it rise a second time. Butter some shallow tins, fill them three-parts full, and bake the buns in a moderate oven. When done enough, let them get cold, sift powdered sugar upon them, and with a sharp knife cut them into squares. Spanish Cakes.—Blanch four ounces of sweet almonds and six or seven bitter ones, and pound them to paste with orange-flower water. Mix with them six ounces of powdered and sifted sugar, half a pound of dried flour, and a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon. Break six eggs, free them from specks, and whisk them thoroughly. Put them into a chocolate mill, and add gradually the dry ingredients, together with two table-spoonfuls of rose- water and two table-spoonfuls of light wine. Mill the mixture between every addition, and for some time after all additions have been made, and till the batter is very light. Butter a pan, and bake the cake in a slow oven. Probable cost, 2s. for a cake this size. Spanish Cakes (another way).—Rub six ounces of butter into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and half a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon. Work the mixture into a paste with two well- beaten eggs, roll it out the third of an inch thick, stamp it into fancy shapes, and bake these in a moderate oven. ‘Time to bake, a quarter of an hour. Spanish Cakes (another way).— Put half a pint of water, a pinche of salt, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and two table- spoonfuls of sifted sugar into a delicately clean saucepan over a gentle fire. Stir the mixture until it begins to boil, then draw it from the fire, and dredge into it five ounces of dried flour. Stir it briskly till it forms a soft, firm paste. Add any kind of flavouring, and work in —one at a time—three well-beaten eggs. Form the paste into balls the size of a walnut, brush these over with beaten egg, and sprinkle upon them chopped almonds which have been shaken in a small portion of the white of one of the eggs mixed with pounded sugar. Bake the cakes in a slow, steady oven, and when they are lightly coloured, they are done enough. If liked, a spoonful of jam may be introduced into que centte of the cakes before they are sent to able. Spanish Chestnut Soup.—Take fifty large Spanish chestnuts. Throw them into a pan of warm water, and when this is hot enough to burn the fingers take the nuts out, peel and scrape them, and throw each one as it is done into a pan of cold water. When all are ready, wipe the chestnuts, cover them with good stock, and let them simmer gently till they break when touched with a spoon or fork. Drain and crush them, mix with them a quart of stock, and rub the soup through a fine sieve. Add as much salt, cayenne, and mace as will flavour it pleasantly. Boil it up again, mix with it off the fire a quarter of a pint of boiling cream, and serve immediately. If its sweetness is not objected to, the whole or part of the stock in which the chestnuts were boiled may be added to the soup. If brown soup is preferred instead of white, the chestnuts, affer being scalded, pecled, and scraped, may be steamed with two ounces of butter, a sliced onion, half an ounce of loaf sugar, and a little pepper and salt. When tender, they should be drained and crushed, mixed with a quart of good brown gravy, and then boiled and rubbed through a fine sieve reversed. The purée, when made hot, will be ready for serving. Time to boil the chestnuts, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Spanish Cream,—Boil half an ounce of isinglass in a quarter of a pint of milk till it is dissolved. When nearly cold, strain it through muslin, and mix with it a custard made of a quarter of a pint of milk, half a pint of double cream, the well-beaten yolks of three eggs, any flavouring that may be pre- ferred, and an ounce of white sugar. Stir it until nearly cold, pour it into a damp mould, and put it in a cool place till set. When wanted for use, dip it into hot water for half -|a minute, shake it well to loosen the edges, place the dish upon the mould, and turn it out quickly. Care must be taken that the custara does not curdle. Sufficient for @ pmt and a half of cream. Probable cost, if made with cream, 2s. Spanish Ham. — The following is a Spanish cook’s recipe for boiling a Spanish ham :—“Put the ham into cold water to soak for sixteen or eighteen hours; scrape and trim it well, putting it into cold water to simmer. Add to the water a tea-cupful of vinegar and a large tea-cupful of brown sugar; simmer five hours. A pint of sherry wine put into the water instead of the vinegar improves the fla- vour of the ham.” Spanish Ham (another way).—Soak the ham in cold water for a couple of days before | cooking it. Take it up, scrape it well, trim it neatly, put it into a stewpan, with as much cold SPA (910 ) SPA water as will cover it, and let it boil gently for an hour. Clean and cut into small pieces a couple of carrots, two onions, and two shallots, and fry them in a little butter with a couple of bay-leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, and a head of celery. Stir these in- gredients over the fire until they are Slightly coloured. Pour upon them as much boiling stock, or, failing this, boiling water, as will cover the ham, and add three or four cioves, half a blade of mace, and a dozen peppercorns. A glassful of light wine may be added, or not. Simmer the ham in the liquor thus prepared till it is done enough, and let it remain in it till cold. Take it up, trim it in the usual way, and either brush if over with liquid glaze or cover it with bread-raspings. Spanish hams are of three sorts—Bayonne, Montauches, and Grenada hams. Time to simmer the ham in the stock, about four hours. Cost, varying with the size, weight, and condition of the market. Spanish Olla.—The Spanish Olla, as communicated by Don Felix Antonio de Al- varado, a native of the city of Seville, in Spain, is made as follows:—“The true olla which they make in Spain is composed of several sorts of meat, as beef, mutton, veal, and bacon; then put in also the ears and feet of a hog, a pullet, with some sausages; moreover, they put in coleworts, turnips, and Spanish peas, which they call garvancos. Jt must all be boiled together for four hours to be a true olla. ’Tis reported of the Marquis Chapin , (Ciappoini?) Vitello, an Italian, who was one of the best soldiers that nation ever bred, that he had so great a liking to this sort of olla when he was in Spain, that he never cared to dine at home, but walking about the streets, if he smelt in any citizen's house this sort of victuals, he went in there, and sat down at his table to dine with him. Before he went out, he ordered his steward to pay the charge of the whole dinner.” Spanish Omelet.—Mince finely as much fat and lean ham as will fill a small tea-cup, and add two finely-minced button - onions. Beat six eggs, stir the ham, &c., into them, and fry the omelet in the usual way. A true Spanish omelet would be made with garlic, instead of onion, but this would be too strong for ordinary palates. Spanish Onions (see Onions, Spanish). Suen Onions, To Pickle.—Choose moderate-sized and perfectly sound Spanish onions. Skin them, and cut them into thin slices, put them in layers into wide-mouthed bottles, and sprinkle upon each layer a little salt and cayenne. When the jar is almost full, pour cold vinegar into it to cover the onions, tie bladder over the mouth of the bottles, and store the pickle in 2, cool, dry place. If liked, the jar may be filled with alternate layers of sliced onion and sliced boiled beetroot, and then three or four drops of cochineal may be added to the vinegar, to improve the look of the pickle. For another mode of pickling Spanish onions, see Onions, Spanish, Pickled. Time, the pickle may be used in three or four weeks. Probable cost, onions, 1d. or 14d. each. Spanish Pudding.—Cut half « dozen penny sponge cakes into thin slices lengthwise. Butter a pie-dish rather thickly, sift powdered sugar on the butter, and line the inside of the dish evenly and neatly with the slices. Press them with the hand to keep them in position. Afterwards fill the dish with alternate layers of sliced sponge cake and apricot jam, and pour into it as much, sherry or marsala as the cakes willabsorb. Beat four eggs briskly, pour them over the cakes, and bake the pudding in a slow oven. When it is set, take it out, let it cool, and turn it out carefully. Have ready the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth, pile them on the pudding, and sprinkle a little powdered sugar with the froth. Put it in the oven to set the egg, and serve the pudding with custard-sauce poured round it. Time to bake the pudding, from fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine, ls. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Spanish Puffs.—Put half a pint of water or milk into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a pinch of salt, a little sugar, and as much grated nutmeg or lemon-peel as will flavour the liquor pleasantly. Stir it till it boils, mix in gradually and smoothly four table-spoonfuls of flour, and beat the mixture over the fire for about three minutes. Take it off the fire, and stir in, one at a time, the yolks of six and the whites of four eggs. Let the batter cool, form it into small balls the size of a_ walnut, and fry these in plenty of boiling fat till they burst. Whilst they are being fried, move them carefully about, that they may be equally cooked. Drain them, dust powdered ' sugar upon them, dish them on a napkin, and serve immediately. Send some wine-sauce to table with them. If liked, puffs thus made can be flavoured with a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, and may be thus converted into ginger puffs. Spanish Rice.—Boil half a pound of rice as for curry, then toss it lightly over a slow fire with a spoonful of salad-oil till it is a bright-yellow colour. Unless great care is taken the rice will burn. Free two large ripe tomatoes from the sceds and juice, and after- wards stir them in with the rice, add a season- ing of black pepper and grated Parmesan, and serve the rice piled on a hot dish. Garnish the vice with thin slices of ham, German sausage, or dried and smoked fish. If ripe tomatoes cannot be procured, a table-spoonful of tomato sauce may be used instead. Spanish Salad.—Put into the centre of a dish some cold dressed French beans, and at the moment of serving stir them up lightly with a little mayonnaise sauce or salad cream of any kind. Garnish the beans with three or four ripe tomatoes cut in slices and ar- ranged in a circle, one slice overlapping another. If preferred, and more convenient, cold dressed Windsor beans, haricot beans, or green peas, or a mixture of all or any of these, may be used instead of French beans. Spanish Sauce (called also Espagnol Sauce and Brown Sauce).—If a large quantity of sauce is required, butter a copper stewpan SPA (911 ) SPA that is capable of holding three or four gallons of sauce, or, if preferred, lay flattened pieces of beef suet at the bottom of the stewpan. Place thick slices of onion upon the suet, or thin: slices of lean ham on the butter, and on these put thick slices of beef or veal and any bones and trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand. A little lean ham, a knuckle-bone of ham, some bacon-rind scalded and scraped, or the carcase of a cold roast rabbit or fowl, will very much improve the flavour of the sauce. Pour in as much stock made from bones, or water, as will barely cover the surface of the meat. Cover the saucepan, set it on a brisk fire, and let it boil quickly till it turns to glaze or thin gum. As soon as this point is reached, slacken the heat of the fire, and let the sauce remain gently simmering until it becomes thick and sticky, and, without being at all burnt, has acquired a bright brown colour. Fill up the stewpan with cold stock or water (allowing a quart of water for a pound and a half of meat and bones). Let it boil, skim carefully, and add two or three carrots, a bundle of outer sticks of celery, a small piece of mace, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, an onion stuck with three or four cloves, a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt. Simmer all gently together for three hours. Keep skimming the sauce as required, and strain it off for use. Let it get cold, then remove every particle of fat from it. When wanted, boil the quantity needed, thicken with roux or brown thickening, and let it boil till it is of the consistency of cream, carefully re- moving the fat as it is thrown up. Pass it through a fine sieve, and it will be ready for use. A glassful of sherry or madeira may be added if liked. When any quantity of brown sauce is wanted, it should be made the day before it is to be used. In cool weather it will keep for four or five days. It should be looked at every day, and boiled up if necessary. Time, four to five hours. Probable cost, 2s. per pint. ; Spanish Sauce, Highly Flavoured. —Dissolve a thick slice of fresh butter in a sauceran, and throw into it a quarter of a pound of lean ham cut into dice, four sliced shallots, a dozen mushrooms cleaned and cut small, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a dozen peppercorns, half a blade of mace, and three cloves. Stir these ingredients over a gentle fire till a red tinge appears round the inside of the saucepan. Add gradually a pint of clear stock, and simmer the sauce gently for three-quarters of an hour. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Strain the sauce, add cayenne and salt if necessary, and thicken with a little brown thickening. Let it simmer again, that it may throw up the fat, and carefully remove this till mo more appears. A few minutes before the sauce is to be served stir into it a wine-glassful of sherry or madeira. Time, altogether, about an hour and a quarter. Probable cost, 2s. per pint. Spanish Sauce made from Bones.— Take the bone of a leg of mutton or of a piece of beef weighing six or seven pounds. Break it ‘into small pieces, and put these into a stewpan with a large onion stuck with three cloves,asliced carrot, half a dozen outer sticks of celery (or, if this is not at hand, as much bruised celery- seed as will lie on a threepenny-piece), a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a couple of leeks (if they can be had), half a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt. Pour over these ingredients three quarts of cold water. Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently for four, hours, or until it is reduced to two quarts. Strain it, and when it is cold take away any fat there may be on the top. When Spanish sauce is wanted, take as much of this stock as will make the requisite quantity; make it hot, and dissolve a little Liebig’s Extract of Meat in it—a quarter of a tea-spoonful will be sufficient for a pint.. Thicken with brown thickening, let it simmer by the side of the fire till it has thrown up the grease, strain through a sieve, and serve. When brown thickening is not at hand, a substitute may be made as follows :—Knead together in a saucepan equal proportions of butter and flour. Stir this paste quickly over a slow fire for three minutes till it is brightly coloured without being at all burnt. Moisten it with the stock, let the sauce simmer gently to throw up the grease, and when it is smooth and thick it will be ready for serving. Time, five hours. Probable cost, 3d. per pint. Spanish Sauce (M. Ude’s way).—Besides some slices of ham, put into a stewpan some slices of veal. Moisten the same as for the cullis; sweat them in the like manner; let all the glaze go to the bottom, and when of a nice red colour moisten with a few spoonfuls of stock-broth liquor to detach the glaze; then pour in the cullis. Let the whole boil for half an hour to remove all the fat. Strain it through a clean tamis. Remember always to put some mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions, into these .sauces. It is neces- sary to observe to the professors of cookery that the flavour proceeds from the seasoning, and if the necessary articles are neglected to be put to a nicety into the sauces, the flavour will be deficient. Mind that the sauce or broth when kept too long on the fire loses the proper taste, and acquires instead a strong and dis- agreeable one. Spanish Sauce, Quickly made.—Peel. an onion, split it in halves, stick a clove in each half, and put these into a saucepan with a bunch of parsley, a tea-spoonful of gelatine, half a dozen celery-seeds, and a pinch of dried tar- ragon, if itis at hand. Boil all gently together with a pint of water till the gelatine is dissolved, strain off the liquor, and stir into it a tea-spoon- ful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat; add as much salt as will be necessary to bring out the flavour. Thicken the gravy with a small piece of brown thickening. If this isnot at hand, mix together small equal portions of flour and butter, stir the paste quickly over a brisk fire till it is brightly coloured, moisten with the stock, boil till smooth, and serve. Time, half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. Spanish Sauce, To make a small uantity of.—Butter a stewpan, and lay in ie bottom of it a couple of slices of lean ham and a pound of lean beef or veal, or half a pound SPA ( 912 ) SPE of each cut into small pieces. Pour upon the meat as much stock or water as will barely cover its surface, and boil it until it becomes thick like gum. Check the heat of the fire a little, and simmer the preparation until it is brightly coloured, taking care that it does not burn. Add gradually a pint of stock or water, and put into the saucepan with the liquor a sliced carrot, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, half a bay-leaf, an onion stuck with two cloves, two shallots, a quarter of a blade of mace, and four or five peppercorns. Simmer the sauce for about an hour, or till it is strong and agreeably flavoured, strain it, and let it stand till cold. ‘When wanted, remove the cake of fat from the top, heat the sauce, thicken with a spoonful of brown thickening, and simmer till it is of the consistency of cream. Remove the fat as it is thrown up, add a glassful of sherry or madeira, and serve. Time, altogether, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 2s. per pint. Spanish Sauce with Game.—tThis is the same as Spanish Sauce (M. Ude’s way), except that in this are introduced the loins and trimmings of either young or old partridges, pheasants, rabbits, &c., that this sauce may taste of game. Put them to sweat. Remem- ber that such sauces, if kept too long on the fire, lose their savour and the game flavour. ‘This method may be thus shortened :—Prepare a small consommé of game by skinning a couple or more of partridges; fillet them, and take the back, legs, and bones, and put them into a stewpan with a little broth to sweat gently in the stove for one hour; when done, reduce it to glaze; then, by putting a small bit of that glaze in either sauce, it will save time and expense, and will answer much better to give it the taste of game. Spanish Sausages, or Chorissas.— ‘Take equal weights of fat and lean pork taken from the prime parts of the animal; mince this finely, and season strongly with garlic and | cayenne. Pour over it as much dry sherry as will cover it, and let it stand in a cool place for three or four days till it has absorbed the liquor. Put the meat into large skins, and moisten with the liquor that remains. Tie the sausages in links, and hang them in a cool, dry place. ‘They will keep for six or eight months. When wanted, drop the sausages into hot water, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Serve them with rice boiled as for curry. Time to boil the sausages, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. _ Spanish Soup.—Take a piece of the shin of beef weighing about four pounds, and one pound of the knuckle of ham. Break the bones into small pieces with a cleaver, and tie the meat with string to keep it in shape. Put it intoa large pot, and pour over it a gallon of cold water. Bring the liquor gently to the point of boiling, remove the scum carefully, and, before it fully boils, throw half a tea-spoonful of cold water into it once or twice, to assist the scum in rising. Add a little pepper, draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer gently and steadily for two hours and a half. Blanch a table-spoonful of rice, throw it into the soup, and boil it an hour longer. Half an hour before the soup is to be served, put into it a pint of Brussels sprouts and an onion thinly sliced. If preferred, other vegetables may be added to or substituted for the sprouts. They must be blanched and stewed in the soup long enough to cook them, and no longer. Remove the bones from the soup, take up the meat, put it on a dish, garnish with the sprouts, and serve very hot. Send the soup to table in a tureen. If the ham has not made the broth sufficiently salt, a little more salt should be added. ‘Time, three hours and a half from the time the water boils. . Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Spanish Soup (another way).—Butter a large stewpan thickly; place in it, in an even layer, two large onions cut in slices, four ounces of lean ham cut into dice, and two pounds of freshly-killed juicy beef cut into pieces two inches square. Add any bones and trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand, or if an old pheasant, partridge, or hen can be pro- cured at a small expense, truss it for boiling, brown it in a saucepan with a little butter, and lay it upon the meat. Pour over these ingredients as much stock as will barely cover them, and boil quickly till it begins to thicken and look like gum. Slacken the heat of the fire, and let the saucepan remain on it till this gum has become a bright-brown colour; pour upon it two quarts of stock or water, and add a large carrot, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a piece of garlic the size of a pea,. half a blade of mace, and two cloves. Let the: liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, and when cold remove the fat from the surface. Prepare about a pint and a half of mixed vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, leeks, celery, and Spanish peas. Let these be cut into strips or shapes of an equal size, and partially boil them in plain water. Boil the soup, throw the vegetables into it, and let them remain until done enough. About twenty minutes before the soup is to be served, put into it some small pork sausages, and when these are done enough, serve them with the vegetables in the tureen with the soup. Time, two hours to oe the stock. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per pint. Spatzen (sparrows or batter flakes; a German recipe).—Stir flour into cold water and milk, with a little salt, to make a thick batter; beat it well with a wooden spoon. Drop little flakes or buttons into boiling water. This is easiest done by putting some of the batter on a trencher or flat plate, and flaking it quickly off into the pot with a knife dipped con- ° stantly in the water. Boil them five minutes; they will swim on the top when done. Strain and dish them. Have ready a piece of butter melted in a stewpan, and a handful of crumbs in it, crisped brown. Pour this over the spatzen, and serve while they are light and hot. A piece of butter may be stirred in as they are dished. If preferred richer, use an egg or two, and milk alone for the batter. Speaker’s Pudding.—Butter a plain mould thickly, dredge flour upon it, and arrange SPE ( 913 ) ‘some raisins in even rounds on the inside; line it with thin strips of crumb of bread which have been dried before the fire and well but- tered. After lining, fill the mould with al- ternate layers of raisins, sugar, and strips of bread, and let the topmost layer be of bread. Mix the well-beaten yolks of four eggs with a pint of milk, add sugar and flavouring, and pour the custard upon the bread. Let it soak for two hours. Bake or steam the pudding, and when done enough turn it out carefully upon a shot dish, and send sweet sauce to table with it. Time to bake the pudding, about an hour; to steam it, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Spearmint.— This species of mint is employed in salads and sauces, as well as dried for soups in winter. There are two varieties —the broad and the narrow-leaved; both are_ equally good. Spice Biscuits, Almond (see Almond Spice Biscuits). Spice Cakes.— These are the French gateaux d’épice; they are made of the follow- ing ingredients :—Treacle, one pint, the very freshest butter, half a pound, powdered gin- ger, an ounce, powdered cinnamon, an ounce, powdered allspice, a quarter of an ounce, coriander seeds and small cardamom seeds pounded, each « quarter of an ounce, candied Jemon-peel chopped very fine, two ounces, tincture of vanilla, six drops, flour, as much as necessary. ‘These ingredients are to be thus manipulated: the treacle being set over the fire, the butter is to be added, and, suc- cessively, all the other ingredients, except the flour. Let them, when well mixed, take a single boil, stirring all the while, then set them to cool. When cold, mix in with a wooden spoon as much flour as will convert the whole into a pretty stiff paste. Butter a tin baking- dish, and Jay on it with the spoon the paste in bits of the size and shape necessary to form the small cakes or nuts. Set the baking-dish in the oven. You may ascertain when these cakes are done by taking one out of the oven, and letting it cool. If, when cold, it is hard, they are done enough. These are considered the ne plus ultra of French gingerbread-nuts. Spice, Mixed, for Seasoning Sauces, Stews, &e.—Take two dozen allspice, the tind of three lemons, a quarter of an ounce of mace, twelve cloves, and two nutmegs. Powder the ingredients, first separately, and after- wards together, and mix with them a salt- spoonful of cayenne and three ounces of white pepper. Put the powder into a perfectly dry and sound bottle, cork closely, and store in a dry place till wanted. It will retain its flavour for months. Spice, Mixed (another way),—Take three quarters of an ounce of ground allspice, three- quarters. of an ounce of ground black pepper, three-quarters of an ounce of grated nutmeg, an ounce and a half of ground ginger, a dozen cloves powdered, and nine ounces of salt. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, put the powder into a dry, closely-stoppered bottle, and keep it corked for use. ee 58—n.E. SPI Spice, Mixed, for Whi y Kitchen Mixed Spice, &c.). prageriee Spice Nuts (a German recipe). — Take four eggs and beat them up; stir ina pound of sifted sugar, half an ounce of powdered cinna- mon, a quarter of an ounce of powdered cloves, and the peel of a lemon cut very fine. Stir these ingredients together for a quarter of an hour, then add by degrees a pound of flour and two ounces of candied peel. When this is well mixed, drop the preparation on buttered tins in small lumps. . Bake in a moderate - oven. ’ Spices.—Under this head are ranged those vegetable products which are fragrant to the smell and pungent to the palate. ‘All the substances classed as spices are the product of tropical climates only; none of our native plants, and no plants that come to maturity in the open air in this climate, possess sufficient aromatic flavour to be reckoned among the spices. The most valuable of these natural productions were originally found in the islands situated in the Indian Ocean, called the Spice Islands or Moluccas, and were probably conveyed from them in the most distant ages.’’ The chief spices are pepper, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, mace, ginger, allspice, &c. Spices, Wholesomeness of.—On the use of foreign spices we may quote Dr. Paris, in his work ‘On Diet.” ‘‘These are not,” he says, “intended by Nature for the inhabitants. of temperate climes: they are heating and highly stimulant. I am, however, not anxious, to give more weight to this objection than it. deserves. Man is no longer the child of Nature, nor the passive inhabitant of any particular region; he ranges over every part of the globe, and elicits nourishment from the productions of every climate. It may be, therefore, necessary that he should accompany the ingestion of foreign aliment with foreign condiment. Na- ture is very kind in favouring the growth of those productions which are most likely to answer our local wants. Those climates, for instance, which engender endemic diseases are: in general congenial to the growth of the plants which operate as antidotes to them. But if we go to the East for tea, there is no- reason why we should not go to the West for sugar. The dyspeptic invalid, however, should be cautious in their use, for they may afford. temporary benefit at the expense of permanent. mischief. It has been well said that the best. quality of spices is to stimulate the appetite, and their worst to destroy, by insensible degrees, the tone of the stomach. The intrinsic good- ness of meats should always be suspected when they require spicy seasoning to compensate for their natural want of sapidity.”’ Spinach.—Spinach is a vegetable of am agreeable taste, light, and wholesome. It con- tains, however, very little nourishment. It should be washed in two or three waters, then drained on a sieve instead of being dried in a cloth, as it is very delicate, and needs to be gently handled. It is generally boiled, and served with meat as a purée, or with,cream or gravy; or it may be pressed into a mould, and SPI (914) SPI werved in a shape with poached eggs laid upon . It is to be had during the spring and: it. autumn. Turnip-tops, dandelion leaves, beet- xoot-tops, and even nettles, are sometimes served 2s a substitute for it. SPINACH. Spinach, Boiled (common English method).—Take two pailfuls of spinach, young and freshly-gathered. Pick away the stalks, ‘wash the leaves in several wateérs, lift them out with the hands that the sand or grit may remain at the bottom, and drain them on a sieve. Put them into a saucepan with a good sprinkling of salt and the water which clings to the leaves, and let them boil until tender. ‘Take the spinach up, drain it, and press it well; chop it small, and put it into a clean saucepan with a little pepper and salt and a slice of fresh ‘butter. Stir it well for five minutes. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with fried sippets. ‘Time to boil the spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient | for five or six persons. Spinach Cream.—Break the yolks of four eggs in a bowl, and free them from specks. Beat them well, and stir into them the third of | w pint of hot milk and half.a pint of thick cream. Sweeten the mixture, and put it intoa saucepan with half a stick of cinnamon. Stir it over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken; add half a quarter of a pint of spinach juice, and stir it again till it is equally coloured. Slice some sponge biscuits, put them into a glass dish, pour the cream upon them, and lay thin strips of candied fruit on the surface. Serve cold. If preferred, macaroons or preserved ‘oranges may be substituted for the sponge ‘biscuits, or the cream may be served in custard glasses. To prepare the spinach juice, seo Spinach, Green, for Colouring. Time, a few minutes to simmer the custard. Probable cost, about 3s. Sufficient for a moderate-sized sup- per-dish. m= ts Spinach, Croustades of.—Cut some bread into the shape of hearts, and slit them all round, then fry them in butter. Arrange the hearts in the form of a rosette. Next cut a round of bread, which slit in the same way, and place it in the centre over the points of the hearts. Fry them till they are of a fine brown, then cut out the interior, take out all the crumb, and fill the space left with spinach, either with cream or consommé. ‘Spinach, Dandelion-leaves dressed like.—When spinach is out of season, dande- lion leaves may be substituted for it. The young leaves only should be used, and they may be boiled and served’ just like spinach. As they shrink very much ‘In boiling, a large quantity will be required for a moderate-sized dish. Turnip-tops, beetroot-tops; and even young nettles, as we have remarked elsewhere, may all be used as substitutes for spinach. Spinach, Dressed .—Pick the leaves from the stem, wash them well, and throw them into a large saucepan, and. salt them. If old, the spinach must have a little boiling water with it. Boil fast for ten minutes, then strain on the back of a sieve or colander; press the spinach in a napkin, and squeeze out all the water that remains. Put the spinach into a stewpan with a little butter, pepper and salt, and about ten minutes before serving place it on the stove to be made hot; add about half a cupful of cream, pile the spinach on the dish, and send to table. “When spinach,” says M. Ude, “is dressed to put under meat, whether fricandeau or sweet- bread, &c., it must be more highly seasoned than when dressed for entremets, and a, little more liquid, as it is like sauce. Spinach is often used in sweet dishes to dye the almonds or make the green colour of the marbled biscuit. Pound in the mortar some of the spinach, and squeeze the juice out of it by pressing it through a towel; put the liquor into a small stewpan, and place the stewpan in a hot water bath to poach. When the ercen is settled at the bottom of the stewpan, drain it through a silk sieve, and use it for almonds, or whatever else requires green.’’ . Spinach, English.’’—Garden patience is known in Germany as English spinach. It | was formerly much cultivated in this country, but is now neglected. ‘Spinach, French mode of Dressing. —Prepare the spinach ‘exactly as in Spinach with Gravy. When it has been boiled, drained, soaked in cold water, squeezed dry, and chopped small, dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan, and stir the spinach in it over the fire till it is hot and dry. Add to it gradually two or three spoonfuls of boiling cream. Add a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar and a little salt, and stir the mixture over the fire till the moisture is absorbed; then serve the spinach very:hot, Garnish the dish with fricd sippets, or freshly-baked pieces of puff paste cut into fancy shapes. Time, ten minutes to boil the spinach. Probable cost, spinach, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Spinach Fritters.— Take spinach and boil it thoroughly, drain it well, mince, and add some grated bread, nutmeg, ginger, and cinna- mon, all pounded. Add as much cream or yolks and whites of eggs as will make the preparation of the consistence of batter; scaid SPI (915 ) SPI a few currants, and mix them in. Drop the patter into a frying-pan on boiling lard ; when the fritters rise, take them out, drain, and send to table. Spinach, Green, for Colouring Soups, Sweet Dishes, &c.—Wash any quantity of spinach, and put it with the mois- ture still clinging to it into a mortar, and pound it to pulp. Press it’ through a sieve, or squeeze it in a cloth to obtain as much juice as possible from it. and set this into a pan of water on the point of boiling, and let it simmer till the juice is set. Take it when thus finished, and lay it on a sieve, ¢o drain the water from it. Place it in a covered basin, and keep it in a cool place till Pour the juice into a jar, | wanted. If soup is to be coloured, mix a little | greening with a little boiling stock, and add the remainder. If sweet dishes are in question, mix a little of the prepared juice with finely- powdered sugar, and add this to the ingredients. ‘Time to poach the juice, three or four minutes. pinach, German Mode of Cook- ing.—“‘Spinach,” says the compiler of “ German National Cookery,” “requires to lie in water a little while, and to be several times rinsed in fresh water. Put it into boiling water with salt; give it eight or ten minutes gentle boiling: uncovered. If its earthy flavour is objected to, throw it into plenty of cold water when boiled enough, then drain, and press it dry; chop it fine. Make butter hot, throw it mto some grated bread-crumbs, then add the spinach. Or make a thick butter-sauce, and stir the spinach into this to get thoroughly hot. Serve garnished with either cutlets, sausages, hard- boiled eggs sliced, and sippets of buttered toast, or poached eggs. If the full flavour of the spinach is liked, simply wash it well, clear it of the large stems, and drain it. Put a piece of butter in a saucepan, and when melted put in. the spinach ; cover, and as it shrinks put in more. Let it cook in its own juice. Sprinkle salt over as you put it in. Spinach in Consommé.—Take par- ticular care when the spinach is picked that no stalks or weeds are left amongst it. The least oversight may cause the spinach to be good for nothing, in spite of whatever trouble you may take in cooking it. It should be washed ‘several times in a great quantity of water. Then boil some water in a vessel large enough for the spinach to float with ease. Put: a great deal of salt that it may preserve its green colour, and press it down frequently with: a wooden spoon that it may be done equally.: When it has boiled a few times, try whether it can be squeezed easily between your two fingers; then, without loss of time, put it into a colander to drain the hot water. Next put it into a great quantity of cold water to keep it green. Wher. it is quite cold make it into balls, and squeeze it well till quite dry. Then spread it on the table with your knife to ascertain that no im- proper substance is left among it. Chop it very fine; put a good piece of butter into a stewpan,, and lay the spinach over the butter. Let it dry: over a gentle fire, and then dredge it. with a spoonful of flour. Moisten with a few spoonfuls of consommé, and let it stew briskly that it may not turn yellow. Make it rich with a small bit of glaze. If you intend.to send it up as an entrée with a ham or a tongue, &c., you must mix a few spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, and let it be well seasoned. Some people like nutmeg; in that case you may grate a little into it. Spinach thus prepared may be used with u fricandeau, sweetbreads of veal, and breasts of veal or of mutton. Spinach, Lamb Cutlets and (see Lamb Cutlets and Spinach). Spinach Omelet.—Beat a large table- spoonful of flour smoothly with four table- spoonfuls of cold milk; add two ounces of but- ter melted, « seasoning of pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and the yolks of four well- beaten eggs. Wash thoroughly and afterwards shred finely a quarter of a pound of spinach, a quarter of a pound of beet, half an ounce of parsley, a quarter of an ounce of lemon-thyme, and a.quarter of an ounce of leeks. Mix the chopped vegetables together, and stir them into the soup. Butter a pie-dish thickly just before the omelet is to be baked; whisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, stir them into the preparation, turn it into a butter dish, and bake in a quick oven. Time to bake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Spinacn, Ox Tail Stewed with (see Ox Tail Stewed with Green Peas or Spinach). Spinach, Plainly Dressed.—Pick the leaves from the stalks, and wash the spinach in several waters to free it from sand and grit. Put it into u large saucepan with as much water only as will keep it from burning ; add a small spoonful of salt, and turn it frequently till it is quite tender. Drain it on a colander, squeeze it dry, chop it small, and add pepper and salt. Put it when thus chopped again into the colander, place this over the fire upon a saucepan of boiling water with a small lump of butter, and turn the vegetable about that the steam passing through the holes of the colander may dry the vegetable. When hot and quite dry, serve immediately. Sometimes fried sippets of bread are put round tho spinach, or bread fried and cut into dice is sprinkled upon it. Time to boil the spinach, ten minutes or more, according to the age of the leaves. Probable cost, 8d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for four or five persons. Spinach Pudding.—Take six good table- spoonfuls of spinach when boiled, pressed, and chopped (or, it may be, spinach dressed the pre- vious day); add the same quantity of bread- crumbs soaked in milk and drained, a little salt, grated nutmeg, or mace, and four eggs beaten up; mix all-well together; butter a pud- ding-mould, and boil. one hour and a half. Spinach pudding is eaten with melted butter or shrimp sauce. . Spinach, Purée of, with Butter.— Pick the stalks from three pounds of spinach, and wash it in two or three waters. Lift it out of the water with the fingers that the sand SPI ( 918 ) SPI may settle at the bottom, and put it into a saucepan with as much boiling water slightly salted as will keep it from burning. Keep it boiling till it is tender, and press it under the water occasionally witha wooden spoon. Drain it well; carefully pick away any stalks or fibre that may still remain in it, and rub it through a coarse sieve. Put the pulp into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter and a little pepper and salt, and stir it briskly over the fire till it is quite hot. Adda spoonful or two of sauce, and let it remain on the fire, stirring all the time, for five minutes. Serve very hot, and garnish with fried sippets, or pile it in the centre of a dish, and place lamb or mutton cutlets on end round it, the long bones inclining towards each other. Time to boil the spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per”pound. Spinach Sauce, for Boiled Fowls, &c.—Wash the spinach in two or three waters. Pick the leaves from the stalks, drain it, and stew it with as much water only as will keep it from burning. Squeeze the moisture from it, and beat it with a wooden spoon till smooth. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, put in the spinach, and stir it till it is quito hot and dry. Add pepper and salt and as much boiling milk as will make the sauce of the con- sistency of thick cream. Stir till smooth, and serve very hot. Time to boil the spinach, about ten minutes. Spinach Soup.—Wash some freshly- gathered young spinach leaves. Shred finely as many as will fill a large basin, and put with them a lettuce, also finely shred, and two or three leaves of sorrel. Throw them into boiling water, and let them boil quickly for five or six minutes. Drain them, put them into plenty of cold water to preserve the colour, and squeeze the moisture from them. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a saucepan. Mix it smoothly with a heaped table-spoonful of flour; add the vege- tables gradually, and when they are roughly blended with the water and flour, pour in, little by little, two quarts of boiling water or vege- table stock. Boil all gently together for a quarter of an hour. Put in, off the fire, a gill of boiling milk or cream, and pepper and salt, if required, and serve very hot. Time, about an hour, Spinach Soup (another way).—Prepare the spinach as recommended ‘in the article Spinach, Dressed; boil it for about six or seven minutes, press the water out, put it ina stewpan with some butter, a little flour, a small onion, and two or three sprigs of parsley. Fry on the stove for a short time, then add a little good stock, and let the soup simmer slowly for about twenty minutes. Pass it through a fine hair sieve, put it back into the stewpan, add a small pat of butter, a piece of glaze, and a little sugar and salt. Let the soup boil, then serve with small crotitons of fried bread. Spinach Soup (a la Frangaise).—Make as much clear stock as will be needed, and put it boiling hot into the tureen. Have ready some spinach boiled in the usual way. Press this till quite dry, season with pepper and salt, and make it into balls the size of a walnut. Gently and carefully slip these into the golden, coloured stock. The contrasting colours in the soup will have a very good appearance. Spinach Soup (a maigre soup).—Tuke chopped spinach to fill a large bowl, a lettuce, and two leaves of sorrel; fry them in butter until browned, put them in a saucepan with three pints of boiling water, also an onion stuck round with cloves, a very stale French roll sliced, and some blanched and shred pistachio kernels.’ Let all simmer together. Beat up the yolks of eight eggs with a little wine and the juice of a lemon, and add to the broth when strained, Serve with a toasted French roll in the centre of the dish, and garnish with poached egg and scalded spinach... Spinach Soup (a maigre soup—another way).—Put six ounces of butter in a stewpan; when browned, throw in three sliced onions, three heads of celery, two handfuls of spinach, some cabbage, three turnips, three cabbage- lettuces, a bunch of parsley, a little water, and season with white pepper and salt to taste. Stew all together gently for half an hour, then add two quarts of water. Simmer till the roots are tender, when any portion, or the whole, may be taken out. Put in the crust of a French roll, and serve. Spinach, To Serve.—This vegetable must be washed thoroughly in several waters to free it from grit. To do this lift it out of the water in both hands a small quantity ata time. The stalk must be pulled from each leaf before boiling. Put the prepared spinach into an empty saucepan, sprinkle a little salt over it, and stir it constantly to prevent burning. Boil the spinach till it becomes tender. Place the boiled spinach on a colander or sieve, press it, chop it on a clean board, put it into a sauce- pan, add butter and broth—taking care, how- ever, not to thin it too much with the broth— and taste whether it is salt enough. Stir it over the fire till the liquid is absorbed, pile on a hot dish, andserve. Half an ounce of butter and one table-spoonful of cream ox broth, will be enough for one pound of spinach. If cream a day old is to be obtained, we may finally in- corporate a little flour with it, and add the whole to the spinach, To embellish this dish, cut milk bread into slices, forming the crust into points, fry in butter till yellow, prepare poached eggs, and serve the spinach, placing round it first an egg and then.-a crust alter- nately, sprinkling bread-crumbs over the vege- table itself. Spinach with Cream.—Boil and drain two pounds of spinach in the usual way. Press it between two plates to free it thoroughly from moisture, and heat it in a clean saucepan with a little pepper and salt and a small lump of butter. When it is dry, add very gradually two table-spoonfuls of boiling cream, and sim- mer it gently for five minutes. Serve very hot. If liked, gravy may be substituted for the cream. Time to boil the spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 3d. to 6d. per pound, Sufficient for three or four persons. Spinach with Cream (ancther way).— Blanch and prepare it in the usuai way, only use SPI ( 917 ) SPI eream instead of broth. Boil the cream before you throw it over the spinach. If it should curdle, the cream only is lost, whereas otherwise you would lose the spinach, butter, and all. Spinach with cream requires a little sugar and nutmeg. Ié is needless to repeat that a little salt is also requisite, as there con be no good seasoning without 1t. You must elways have fried toasts of bread round the spinach when you send it up to table. Spinach with Eggs.—-Wash the spinach in several waters. Pick off all the stalks, reject the decayed and discoloured leaves, and boil the spinach with as much slightly-salted water as will keep it from burning. Leave the saucepan uncovered. Press the spinach under the water occasionally, and let it boil till tender. Put it into a colander, and press the moisture from it with the back of a plate. Mince it finely, then put it into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter and a little pepper and salt, and stir it well till it is hot and dry. Put it on a hot dish, smooth it with the blade of a knife, and mark it in squares. Place as many poached eggs as there are guests on the top of the spinach, or, if preferred, put them round it, each egg on a piece of buttered toast. Serve the whole very hot. If a superior dish is required, the spinach, after being boiled till tender, may be rubbed through a wire sieve, and the pulp heated with a slice of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of thick cream, and a little pepper and salt. To poach the eggs, proceed as follows :—Break the eggs carefully into separate cups. Have ready a small omelet-pan with as much boiling water in it as will cover the eggs. Throw into this a tea-spoonful of vinegar and a pinch of salt. Slip the eggs gently into the water one at atime. As soon as one sets, put in another, and boil them gently until done enough. When the yolks are covered with a thin filmy veil, and the whites are firm, lift the eggs out with a slice, drain them for a moment, and place them on the spinach. Time to boil the spinach, ten to fifteen minutes. Spinach with Gravy.— Take three pounds of spinach. Pick the leaves from the stalks, and wash them well in several waters, drain them, throw them into a saucepan with plenty of slightly-salted: boiling water, and let them boil for five minutes. Press the spinach, and throw it into cold water for half an hour to preserve the colour. Take it out of the water a little at a time, make it into small balls, press the moisture thoroughly from it, spread it on a dish, pick out any stalks or straws that may have been inadvertently left in it, and chop it small. Mix an ounce of butter smoothly in a saucepan with an ounce of flour, add a pinch of salt, and stir the mixture over the fire for three minutes. Put in the spinach, and stir it for five minutes. Pour in a quarter of a pint of stock, and when this is thoroughly blended with the vegetable add, a little at a time, half a pint more: stir the spinach again for five minutes. Lift it from the fire, stir into it till dissolved an ounce of fresh butter, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with triangular pieces of crumb of bread half an inch thick. Spinach when thus dressed will constitute an enjoyable accompaniment to veal or boiled, mutton. With roast meat it is best when served plain. Time, altogether, about an hour. Probable cost of spinach, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Spinach with Gravy (another way).— Prepare the spinach exactly as in the foregoing recipe. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan, put in the spinach, and stir it till the butter has dried away. Add a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of sugar, and as much grated nutmeg as will cover a sixpence. Stir it again, and moisten with two table-spoonfuls of highly-seasoned veal broth and a tea-spoonful of chilli vinegar. Stir it over the fire till the liquid is absorbed, and serve very hot. Time, altogether, about an hour. Probable cost of spinach, 3d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. ‘ Spirit of Lemon-peel.— When fresh lemons cannot be procured, mix two ounces of rectified spirits of wine with one drachm of essential oil of lemons. Put the preparation into a small bottle, and keep it closely stoppered till wanted. The flavour of fresh lemon-peel . may be imparted to any dish by the addition of three or four drops of this mixture. One-to two table-spoonfuls of it will also convert a tumblerful of water into lemonade. Spirits.—These alcoholic drinks differ from wines and beers in the fact that they are distilled from some form of fermented liquor. We may obtain the alcohol from beer or wine, or from any substance containing sugar which is fer- mented. As an illustration of the sources from which alcohol may be obtained, Loudon, in his “ Encyclopedia of Gardening,” tells the story of an Irish gardener who was always drunk, yet no one ever knew where he got the means to indulge his propensity. It was not till he was watched with great perseverance that the source of his inebriety was discovered. It was found that he had ingeniously contrived to make a small still out of two watering-pots attached by their . spouts. Into one of these he introduced a mash of fermenting carrots, from which, by the aid of heat from an oil lamp, he was enabled to obtain a coarse imitation of his beloved potheen. Alcohol then, under the form of distilled spirits,;may be obtained from any saccharine substance in a state of fermentation. Araka is manufactured in Tartary from fermented mares’ milk, arika from cows’ milk. Aqua ardiente is procured in Mexico from the sweet juice of the American sloe. In the East Indies, Arrack is made from fermenting rice or palm sago. Fer- menting Machaleb cherries are the source of the German Kirschwasser. Maraschino is made from macaiska cherries in Dalmatia. From rice wine a Chinese spirit, Show-choo, is distilled. In short, there hardly exists a race of men who have not acquired the art of distilling alcohol after its formation during the fermentation of sugar. In Britain, we are more particularly ac- quainted with brandy, gin, whisky, and rum. Brandy is produced by the distillation of wine alone, and not from any other fermented liquor; any spirits made from other liquors than wine are improperly termed brandy. Brandy is SPI (918 ) SPO prepared in all the wine countries of Europe, but particularly in France, where, however, the localitiss of the best French brandy are ex- tremely limited. The grapes most proper for wines are not the best suited for brandy. The general mode of preparing brandy is extremely simple, being nothing more ‘than a well-regu- lated distillation of wine in suitable vessels. At the commencement of the vintage, the manufacturers collect all the grapes that are not fit for good wine, ferment their juices, and distil them for brandy ; they also use for this purpose all wines that have failed in the making —although, if they have become at all acid, the brandy is tainted. The spirit next in importance is Gin. “This word is a corruption of Geneva, as that is of the French word geniévre, or juniper. Gin is also called Hollands. Geneva, however, is not gin, but a kind of liquor made from the berries of the juniper, which contain as much as thirty- four per cent. of sugar, and may be easily fer- mented. Gin was first made in Holland, and was brought into this country as Hollands gin. It is distilled from corn malt, and various sub- stances are added to it tc give it flavour. The most common substances of this kind are juni- per berries, but a-variety of substances are added to suit the taste of the customer, so that no two gins are alike. In this country every gin distiller uses his own ingredients, whilst the retailer of gin has also his particular recipes for rendering his gin profitable or palatable, or both. Sometimes injurious substances are added to gin to make it taste strong, as sul- phuric acid and: sulphate of zinc; these, how- ever, are adulterations. The substances used for flavouring gin are numerous enough. Thus we find enumerated bitter almonds, turpentine, creosote, lemon, cardamoms, caraways, cassia, garlic, Canada balsam, horseradish, cayenne pepper, and grains of paradise. None of these things are’ poisonous, and probably all of them assist in determining the action of the alcohol of the gin as a diuretic. - Gin does not usually contain so much alcohol as brandy—not more than eight ounces to the pint being found in the best gins. Sugar is added by many distillers, but others do not add this ingredient. Gin, as it is retailed, always contains sugar, and not frequently more than four ounces of alcohol to the pint. It is consequently a weaker spirit generally than brandy, and so far is perhaps less injurious when taken raw. The practice, how- ever, of taking any kind of raw spirits is a very hazardous proceeding, and cannot be habitually indulged in without danger.”—Dr. Lankester. Whisky is a spirit produced by distillation from grain, roots, and other materials. The best is obtained from barley after it has been malted, though that which goes under the name of raw grain whisky, made from wheat, oats, rye, Indian corn, rice, &e., after being kept for two or three years, is almost as good. Whisky is also manufactured from potatoes, beetroot, beans, molasses, sugar, &c., malt being sometimes added to a small extent. This spirit used to be made almost solely in Scotland, Ireland, and the United States; but distilleries now, however, are numerous in England, France, Germany, Holland, and Sweden. The foreign spirit is, as a rule, coarse in quality, and only suited for fortifying wines. Whisky has frequently a slight smoky flavour, supposed. to be owing to the way in which it is prepared. The whisky ordinarily sold in England is more free from flavouring ingredients than any other. form of distilled spirit. “Rum,” says Dr. Lankester, in his valuable: -work “On Food,” “is less generally consumed in England than the other spirit; but from the fact of its being supplied by the Government to our soldiers and sailors, large quantities are entered for consumption in Great Britain. It is principally made in the West Indies, and our supplies are almost wholly drawn from Jamaica, ‘where it is manufactured from the fermented scum of the sugar boilers and molasses. A fla- vour is often given to it by the addition of slices of pine-apple. It is usually sold much above proof, so that a pint of rum will con- tain fifteen ounces of alcohol. It has a peculiar, odour, which is due to butyric ether. Like brandy, it improves by keeping, and probably develops the same class of bouquets as wine. The action of the alcohol of rum is of course ithe same as that of other fermented liquors; but Dr. Edward Smith has pointed out a curious fact in its action on the system, and that is, that. it increases the quantity of carbonic acid thrown out from the lungs. This may be due to the butyric ether. Whether this suggestion be correct or not, it is a curious fact, resulting from Dr. Smith’s experiments, that whilst other ‘alcoholic drinks decrease the expiration of car- bonie acid, rum should increase it.’ Spit, Cradle (sce Cradle Spit). Sponge Biscuits.—Break four fresh eggs, and put the yolks and whites into separate bowls. Take out the specks, beat the yolks thoroughly, and add gradually, beating tho mixture briskly, half a pound of powdered and ‘sifted sugar, a dessert-spoonful of orange- flower water, a quarter of a pound of flour, and lastly the whites of the eggs whisked to a froth. Make some biscuit tins hot. Grease them with butter, and while hot sift powdered sugar over them. Three-parts fill them with the batter, and sprinkle sugar over them before putting them into the oven, which must be very brisk. When done enough turn them out of the tins, and lay them on a sieve, Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Sponge Cake (a German recipe).—Take half'a pound of sifted sugar and the yolks of ten eggs; stir these ingredients for a quarter of an hour. Add six ounces of butter beaten to a cream, half a pound of fine flour, and the prated peel of a lemon and its juice. When these are thoroughly stirred in, add the whites of the ten . eggs whipped to a snow. Stir all well together. Then take one or two moulds and butter them. Fill the moulds three-parts full, strew thin slices of almonds and some coarsely-powdered. sugar on the top, and bake the cakes in a mode- rate oven. Sponge Cake oes way).—Boil three quarters of a pound of the finest loaf sugar pounded in a quarter of a pint of water SPO (‘919 ) SPO containing ‘a large spoonful of orange-flower water. ‘Have ready the yolks of seven eggs and the whites of five beaten separately and then mixed, whisk them well, and as you do so pour into them the hot syrup. Stand the basin over a saucepan of boiling water, draw it back and whip the mixture for twenty minutes. Stir in lightly off the fire half a pound of dried and sifted flour. Add a little finely-shred lemon-peel, and put the batter into the baking-pan, which must be greased and sugared as in the last recipe. ‘This cake may be made without the orange-flower water. Sponge Cake, Almond, Superior.— Blanch a pound of sweet almonds, throw them into cold water as they are done, dry them well, and pound smoothly, sprinkling the whole of three eggs upon them during the ‘pro- cess. Work thoroughly with them a spoonful of grated lemon-rind, » pound of powdered sugar, and the well-beaten yolks of fifteen eggs. Take the remaining whites of the eggs (making altogether fifteen, inclusive of those which were mixed with the almond-paste), whisk these to a firm frothy and stir them into the cake. Dredge into it a quarter of a pound of dried flour, and beat it briskly for a few minutes. Butter a mould, sift powdered sugar into it, pour the batter in till it is half full, and bake immediately. Let the cake stand a few minutes, turn it out carefully, and put it on a. aieve. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, 2s. Sponge Cake, Almond (another way).— See Almond Sponge Cake. Sponge Cake Pudding.—Take three or four stale sponge biscuits, or an equal quantity of stale sponge cake, cut it into slices, put these into a thickly-buttered dish, and pour upon them a pint and a half of boiling milk which has been sweetened and flavoured with a table-spoonful of brandy: and with lemon or almond flavouring. Cover the dish with a plate, and let the pudding soak for an hour.. Beat it up with a fork, stir into it three or four well-beaten eggs, pour some clarified fresh butter upon the top, sift powdered sugar on the surface, and bake the pudding in a gentle oven, If liked, cream may be used instead of milk. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 1s, 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons, Sponge Cake, Vanilla (see Vanilla Sponge Cake). : Sponge Cakes, Cocoa-nut (see Cocoa- nut Sponge Cakes). Sponge Cakes, Iced.— Make some sponge batter in the usual way, and bake it in a moderate oven in a large flat cake an inch thick. When done enough take’ it out, let it get cold, and with a sharp knife cut it into fancy shapes of any size and form. Put these On a baking sheet, spread jam over them, and Place on this a coating of icing a quarter of an inch thick. Put them in a screen or in a warm situation till the icing is firmly set, and use them for dessert, &c. ‘Tho icing may be prepared as follows :—Break the whites of two eggs into & bowl, stir into them sufficient fine sugar to make a stiffish paste, and beat the mixture briskly with a wooden spoon. Add every now and then one or two drops of lemon-juice- ‘When ready, cover the icing with a wet clot till wanted. Sponge Cakes (safe general rule for making all sizes).—T'ake any number of fresh eggs, with their weight in sugar, half their weight in flour, and any flavouring that may be chosen. Break the eggs, put the yolks arid the whites into separate bowls, and take away” the specks. Beat the yolks and the sugar- together, add the flour, and, lastly, the whites: of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Beat the: mixture thoroughly, put the batter into a tin lined with buttered paper, and bake in a brisk oven. Sponge Cakes, Small,—No. 1. Take. eight eggs, with their weight in powdered sugar, and the. weight of four of them in dried and sifted flour. Beat the yolks of the eggs. with the sugar and whatever flavouring is ap- proved for a quarter of an hour, stir in the flour lightly and gradually, and when it is. smoothly mixed add the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Butter the tins, half fill them with the batter, sift pow- dered sugar over them, and bake in a quick oven. Take them out of the tins before they are cold, place them upside down on a sieve, and let them remain for an hour. Place them in a closely-covered tin canister to re- main till wanted. The cakes must not be allowed to acquire much colour. No. 2. Break five eggs, and put the yolks and the whites into separate bowls. Beat the yolks with-half a pound of sugar till the mixture is light and. smooth, add the whites whisked to a firm froth, . four ounces of dried and sifted flour, and the grated rind and strained juice of one lemon. Put. into tins, and bake as before! No. 3. Break two eggs into a bowl. Beat them till light and frothy, add a tea-cupful of powdered sugar, and, gradually, a tea-cupful of dried flour. Put the batter into tins, and bake the cakes ina. brisk oven. Time to bake, from ten to fifteen. minutes. - Sponge Cakes (various recipes).—No. 1.. Break seven eggs, and put the whites and the: yolks into separate bowls. Take out the specks,. and beat the yolks of the eggs, add half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, the grated. rind and strained juice of half a lemon, six ounces of dried flour, and lastly the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Grease a. hot tin with butter free from moisture. While still warm, sift sugar upon it, pour in the batter, and bake the cake in a moderate oven. Time to to bake, three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. for a cake this size. No. 2. Bruise half a pound of vanilla, tie it in muslin, and simmer it gently with a pound of loaf sugar till she syrup is clear and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it through a jelly-bag, and stir it tilt cool. Beat the whites of three eggs to a firm froth, stir them into the syrup, add the well- beaten yolks of six eggs, and lastly six ounces of dried flour. When the batter is thoroughly mixed, pour it intoa well-oiled mould, and baks SPO (920 ) SPR the cakes immediately in a well-heated oven. Tf liked, the syrup can be flavoured with lemon- rind instead of vanilla. Time to bake, about an hour. No. 3. Take three eggs and their weight in flour, and four eggs and their weight insugar. Put the yolks of the seven eggs and the sugar into a saucepan, and beat them over a gentle fire till they are new-milk-warm. Pour them into a basin, and put with them a table- spoonful of brandy and any flavouring that may be preferred. Stir them well together, and dredge the flour in very gradually, beating the mixture all the time. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a solid froth, stir them into the bat- ter, and beat it again for a quarter of an hour. Butter a mould, sprinkle powdered sugar upon it, pour in the cake, and put it immediately into a well-heated oven. Time to bake, about one hour anda half. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Sponge Cakes with Apple Snow.— Cut four or five stale penny sponge cakes into thin slices ; lay these on a glass dish, and pour over them halt a pint of good custard or cream favoured with a little brandy. Bake half a dozen large apples in a well-heated oven till they break and are soft. Scrape the pulp away from the skin and cores, weigh it, and a quarter of an hour before it is wanted beat up with half a pound of it. the strained juice of a lemon, as much powdered sugar as will sweeten it pleasantly—the quantity needed will depend upon the quality of the apples—and the well- whisked whites of two eggs. Beat the apple- mixture with a whisk till it looks light and frothy, and has the appearance of snow, pile it on the custard, and serve immediately. Time, two hours to soak the sponge cakes in the custard. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. if the custard be made with milk. Sufficient for a small supper dish. Sponge, Orange (see Orange Sponge). Sponge, Savoy.—Break six eggs, and put the yolks and whites into separate bowls. Beat the yolks lightly, and then add a pinch of salt, half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, and a little flavouring. Beat these ingredients together briskly with a wooden spoon for a quarter of an hour. Adda quarter of a pound of corn-flour, and, lastly, stir in lightly the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth. Pour the batter gently into a mould which has been buttered and covered with sifted sugar, and bake the cake in a moderate oven. Turn it out carefully, and put it on a sieve till cold. Time to bake, about an hour. Probable cost, about 1s. _ Sprats.—This is a very common fish on many parts of the British coast, and elsewhere in the northern parts of the Atlantic. It is smaller than the herring, being only about six inches long when full-grown. It strongly re- sembles the herring, however, though it is easily distinguished ‘‘by the serrated belly, and by the position of the fins, the ventral fins beginning immediately beneath the first ray of the dorsal fin, and not beneath the middle of it, as in the herring and pilchard. Another easily-observed distinction is the want of axillary hairs to the ventral fins, which both the herring and pil- chard have. The dentition is also different. Notwithstanding all this, an old opinion has often been put forward, and urged with some pertinacity on public attention, that the sprat is the young of the herring, which, therefore, it is injurious to a more important fishery to cap- ture.” The Firth of Forth produces sprats— called ‘‘garvies” in Scotland—so abundantly that they are sold in Edinburgh and Glasgow by measure, and cheaper than any other kind of fish. Sprats are wholesome, and of « good flavour. They may be smoked, dried, potted, or fried, but they are best when broiled, as they are of a very oily nature. They are in season during the winter. They should be chosen as fresh as possible. This may be known by the brightness of their eyes and their silvery look. Though many persons eat them with salt alone, it will be found that their flavour is improved by the addition of a squeeze of lemon-juice and a pinch of cayenne. Sprats, Baked.—Clean the sprats, cut off the heads, draw them at the gills, and dry them with a soft cloth. Put them into a dish, and cover with equal quantities of vinegar and water. Add a little seasoning in the pro- portion of a bay-leaf, a small onion, two or three allspice, a little salt, and a quarter of an ounce of whole pepper with each pint of the liquor. Cover the dish closely, and bake the sprats till done enough in a gentle oven. When they are cold, take off the cover, pour cold vinegar over them, and tie them up. They will keep for a week or two. Time to bake, half to three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 1d. per pound. Sprats, Broiled.—Clean the sprats, dry them well, and draw them at the gills. Dip them lightly in flour, fasten them in rows on small skewers run through the heads, and broil them on a closely-barred gridiron over a slow fire. When they are done upon one side, turn them on the other. Serve them on a very hot dish. They are generally served dry, but if liked a little lemon-juice may be squeezed over them at the last moment. ‘Time to broil the sprats, four or five minutes. Probable cost, 1d. or 2d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound for three persons. Sprats, Dried.—Dried sprats are some- times eaten plain. but they are very dry and salt. If liked, they may be slightly broiled, but perhaps the best way of serving them is to put them in a basin, pour boiling water upon them; then in a few minutes skin them, and serve them very hot. Sprats, Fried.—Clean the sprats, dry them well, draw them at the gills, dredge them with flour, and run a small skewer through the heads of about a dozen pf them. Fry them on the skewer in plenty of hot fat, and when they are nicely browned lift them on a hot dish covered with blotting-paper, and put them before the fire till the fat has drained from them. Fold a hot plate ina warm napkin; lay this on a hot dish, draw the skewer from the SPR (921) SPR sprats, place them upon it, and garnish the fish with parsley and lemon. Serve as hot as pos- sible. Sometimes the sprats are dipped in egg and bread-crumbs before being fried. Time to fry, two to three minutes. Sufficient for one or two persons. Sprats, Fried.—It has been said that if sprats were as scarce as smelts they would be as much esteemed. Wash them clean, dry in a cloth, powder with flour or fine bread or bis- cuit-crumbs; then fry in boiling grease, drain ona sieve before the fire, and serve very hot. Sprats, Pickled.—Take a quarter of a peck of sprats as fresh as they can be obtained. Clean them, cut off the heads, and in doing so draw them and put them into strong brine for an hour. Drain and dry them, and put them in layers into a pickling jar. Between each layer sprinkle salt and saltpetre, and let this be also sprinkled under the first layer and over the last. When the jar is full, press the fish down lightly, and cover the jar closely. The fish may be used in three or four months. The salt may be mixed in the following proportions: —Half a pound of salt, half a pound of bay- salt, a table-spoonful of white sugar, an ounce of saltpetre, and a pinch of cochineal. Dry the salt, crush and pound it thoroughly, and mix it with the other ingredients, and it will be ready for use. When wanted, the pickled sprats may be fried in butter, and served on buttered toasts, or they may be freed from skin and bone, pounded to paste, and covered with clarified butter. Sprats, Pickled (another way).—Take a number of small sprats, cut off the heads, and wash the bodies well. Strew a quantity of salt over them, and let them lie in a pan all night. Take them out next day, and wipe them well. Then put in a stone jar, or in an iron saucepan, a quantity of vinegar in proportion to the quan- tity of sprats. If the vinegar is in a stone jar, put it into an oven to boil; if inan iron vessel, place it over the fire. Put into the vinegar a bunch of parsley-root, some tarragon leaves, a sprig of thyme, one of marjoram, an onion stuck with cloves, and four or five shallots. Let the vinegar boil with these herbs, then strain it into another stone jar, and let it get cold. Mcanwhile, have ready some wide- mouthed pickle or anchovy bottles. Put a layer of sprats at the bottom of each bottle, then a bay-leaf, then a pinch of salt, a grain or two of allspice, and a few peppercorns; then another layer of sprats; and so on until the bottles are full. Then fill them with the vinegar when it is quite cold. Cork the bottles, put bladder over the corks, and sealing wax upon the bladder. In six months they will be fit for use. Smelts pickled in the same way are admirable. Sprats, Stewed.—Clean and wipe the sprats, cut off the heads, draw out the gut, and place them in even layers in a mode- rate-sized saucepan. Between each layer put a pinch of salt, three peppercorns, and three allspice. Barely cover the fish with vine- gar, and let them simmer very gently without boiling until done enough. Time to simmer, one hour. Probable cost, 1d. or 2d. per pound. Spring-Herbs Soup (excellent for puri- fying the blood),—Shred finely a handful of young dandelion-leaves, and the same quan- tity of chervil and purglain, together with five or six sorrel-leaves and two cabbage lettuces. Wash them well, then drain them, and steam them in a closely-covered saucepan with a little pepper and salt and an ounce of fresh butter. In ten minutes dredge a table-spoonful of flour upon them, and adda pint and a half of white stock. Let the soup simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, and keep stirring it during all the time. Strain into it half a pint of boiling milk, and add a tea-spoonful of powdered white sugar. Put the yolks of two eggs into the soup-tureen. Beat them with a spoonful of the soup, which, though thoroughly hot, must not be quite boiling; add the rest of the soup gradually, and serve immediately. If pre- ferred, cream may be used instead of milk. Time, about an hour, exclusive of the time consumed in preparing the stock. Sufficient for four or five persons. Spring Salad.—Take young and freshly- cut spring vegetables, such as lettuces, young radishes, mustard and cress, and a few spring onions, if liked. If they are clean and free from insects, look them carefully over, and wipe them with a cloth, or if necessary plunge them into cold water for a moment, but on no account let them remain in it longer than is necessary to cleanse them. If they have been washed, dry them perfectly. The best way of doing this is to let them drain for a little time, then put a small quantity at a time into a dry napkin; shake this by the four corners till all the moisture is expelled. The goodness of a salad depends to a great extent upon the vege- tables being perfectly dry. Tear them into small pieces with the hands, arrange them in the salad-bowl, so that the light and dark greens shall contrast prettily. Put the radishes and onions round, and garnish the dish with parsley or nasturtium leaves, beetroot, hard- boiled egg, &c. Send any good salad-sauce (see Salad, Mayonnaise Sauce for) to table in a boat, and stir it briskly into the salad at the moment of serving. If it should be preferred, the salad-sauce may be dispensed with, and the salad prepared as follows:—For a moderate~ sized salad-bow] of salad, mix in the salad-spoon a spoonful of mustard, a spoonful of salt, and half a spoonful of pepper, and stir into these a table-spoonful of vinegar, and if liked a few drops of tarragon vinegar may be added. Work these lightly but thoroughly into the salad, then put in four table-spoonfuls of best lucca oil, and stir the salad again for a few minutes. Serve immediately. Spring Salad (another way).—The fol- lowing is an old-English spring salad of 1682 :— “There is a sort of salad commonly gathered in the spring, consisting of divers young buds and sprouts both of trees and herbs, the which being gathered discreetly with nothing but what is very young and tender, and so that no one thing exceed the other, but there may be a fine agreemeut in their relishing, so it will be very acceptable to many: Violets, small sprouts of burnet, young leaves of primroses and flowers, SPR mints, sorrel, buds of gooseberries, roses, bar- berries, flowers of burage, bugloss, cowpagles, and archangel.” Spring Soup.—Take a mixture of any or all kinds of early vegetables, such as young turnips and carrots, spring onions, mustard and cress, cauliflowers, lettuce, green peas, aspara- gus-tops, &c. A very small bunch of parsley and a little chervil, and three or four leaves of sorrel finely shred may be added if liked. Half a pound of mixed vegetables will be sufficient for a quart of stock. With small vegetable-scoops cut the vegetables into fancy shapes of about the same size, or into thin shreds about an inch long. Throw these into boiling water, and let them remain for a minute or two. Drain them, and put them into another saucepan with as much boiling clear stock (see Clear Soup, Excellent) as is required. Let the soup boil gently till the vegetables are done enough. Taste in order to ascertain whether further seasoning is required, and serve very hot. In boiling the vegetables, it should be remembered that some will need to boil longer than others, and therefore they must not all be put in together. Time, altogether, about an hour and a half. Sufficient, a quart of soup for five or six persons. Probable cost, varying with the ingredients. Spring Soup, Early.—Take a knuckle of veal chopped in pieces, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a quart of whole white peas, two or three turnips, a leek, and a little celery. Cut these into small pieces, and put to them four quarts of soft water. Boil till the meat has parted with all its juices and the peas’ have become soft. Then take out the meat and vegetables, and pulp the peas through a sieve. Season with pepper and salt to taste. Take a bunch of asparagus cut small to re- semble green-peas, the hearts of two or three cabbage-lettuces, and some green mint chopped fine. Stew these in the soup till the vege- tables become tender, taking care to keep them of a good colour and not to permit them to remain too long upon the fire. Should the soup prove too thick, put to it some good broth, and if too thin, add a little flour and water. Should it not appear sufficiently green, pound a handful of spinach, and put the juice, when properly strained, into the soup, but it must not be boiled, for that would destroy the green colour of the spinach. Observe that when as- paragus is meant to resemble green peas, care must be taken not to subject it to too much heat, it being a vegetable that soon becomes soft and loses its colour. A considerable degree of attention is required on the part of the cook, in regard to the management of the asparagus. Spring Soup (M. Ude’s recipe).—Take carrots, turnips, heads’ of celery, and small onions cut into the shape of olives; blanch them in winter, but in summer fry them with a little butter, and put them to boil in clear broth with a little sugar. Put the soup in the corner of the stove to skim away all the butter. Have ready the green tops of asparagus, and French beans cut into lozenges which have been boiled separately in water very green; put them into the soup when you send it up, (922 ) SPR with slices of crust of bread cut the size of n penny and soaked separately in a little broth; if you have any peas, you may put in some likewise to boil with the soup. Spring Soup of Early Cabbages.— Take the hearts of two white spring cabbages well washed, place them for a few minutes in boiling water; take out the cabbages, put them into cold water, drain them, cut them in quarters and remove the stalks, tie each quarter with a piece of thread, put them in some savoury stock, simmer till done enough, lay them in a tureen, and pour the soup over them. Spring Soup of Hop-tops.—Early in spring gather some hop-tops; tie them up in small bundles, let them soak in fresh water, and boil them in some good stock slightly thickened with lentils or peas and flavoured with onions, herbs, pepper, and salt. Simmer the vegetables till tender; then place some sippets in a tureen, lay the bundles of hop-tops upon them, and pour the potage over all. Spring Soup, Thick.—Soak half a pint of green split peas, then boil them till tender in as much stock made from bones as will cover them, and with them two young carrots and two turnips, five or six spring onions, a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a. small leek, and a few outer sticks of celery, if, these can be had. When .the peas and vegetables are quite tender, rub them through a sieve. Add additional stock to make the purée as thick as custard; and if it is not a good colour, add spinach-juice to make it green (see Spinach Greening), Cut a small bunch of asparagus- tops into the shape of peas. Boil these sepa- rately in a little water with the heart of a finely-shred young cabbage, and three or four leaves of mint. Be careful to keep these vege- tables a good colour. A few minutes before the soup is to be served throw them into it. If they can be procured, freshly-picked peas can be used instead of the dried split peas. Time to boil the soup, one and a half to two hours. Suf- ficient for five or six persons. ‘ BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Sprouts, Brussels (sce Brussels Sprout). SPR (923) STE Spruce Beer.—Dissolve sixteon pounds of treacle in eight gallons of water. Strain the liquor into a cask, and add eight gallons of cold water and six table-spoonfuls of the essence of spruce. When the liquor is new-milk-warm, stir briskly into it half a pint of good fresh yeast. Leave it in a warm place for a day or two until fermentation ceases, then bung it up closely. The following day it may be bottled, and can be used in a week. Sometimes the beer is flavoured by boiling for this quantity a tea-cupful of bruised ginger, a tea-spoonful of allspice, and three ounces cf hops in a small quantity of the liquor, and adding this to the rest. When the outer sprigs of the spruce fir can be obtained, they may be boiled for a few minutes in a little of the liquor, and this decoction may be used instead of the essence. A pound of the sprigs will be equivalent to a pound and a half of the essence. Spruce Beer (another way).—This is made by adding the essence of spruce (which see) to water in which sugar or treacle has been dissolved in the proportion of about four ounces of essence of spruce to ten pounds of sugar, or three quarts of treacle, and ten or eleven gallons of water, and with about half « pint of yeast. For flavouring, various spices are added. “A similar beverage,’ says a writer in “‘ Chambers’ Encyclopedia,” “is made largely in the north of Europe from the buds of the Norway spruce, and is known as Black Beer, that of Danzig being the most famous. The antiscorbutic beer of the Russian army pharmacopoeia is made by mixing spruce tops. and fresh horseradish- root with common beer; ginger and Calamus aromaticus being added for flavouring, and, after fermentation, a little cream of tartar, tincture of mustard, and proof spirit. ‘Spruce Beer Powders. — Take two tumblers, and pour into each as much cold water as will fill them about a third. Stir into one glass eight grains of the essence of spruce, one grain of essence of lemon, one scruple cf bicarbonate of soda, and one drachm of loaf sugar. In the other glass dissolve half a drachm of tartaric acid. Pour the contents of the one glass into the other, and drink the liquor during effervescence. If these powders are prepared beforehand, the mixture should be packed in papers of one colour and the tartaric acid in papers of a different one. Spruce, Essence of.—Essence of spruce is obtained by boiling the green tops of’ the |: black spruce in water, and then concentrating the decoction by another boiling without the spruce tops. The young shoots of this fir, like most others of its family, are coated with a resinous exudation, which is dissolved in the water. Squab Pie.—This is 2 favourite popular dish in the west of England. It is generally made of mutton, though in the midland coun- ties beef and fat bacon are sometimes used. Take a deep dish, and fill it with layers of mutton chops, apples cut as for other pies, and finely-‘shred onions. 1 pepper and salt, and sweeten the apples with sugar. Cover the pie with a thick crust, and Season the layers with |, bake ina well-heated oven. Time to bake, two to three hours, according to size. Squab Pie (another way).—Sce Devon- shire Squab Pie. Squeak, Bubble and (sce Bubble aad Squeak). _Staffordshire Syllabub.—Put a pint of cider into a bowl with a glassful of brandy, four table-spoonfuls of sugar, and half a grated nut- meg. Fill the bowl with frothed new milk, or with milk heated till it is new-milk-warm. Pour this into the syllabub from a teapot held high above it. Stale Bread.—Stale bread will taste com- paratively fresh and new if it be put into a cool oven till it is heated gently through. It will take about an hour. Stale Cake.—If a sweet cake becomes stale, it may be freshened by the following pro-' cess:—Put it into a box with a closely-fitting lid, place this before the fire, hut not so near as to scorch the wood of the box, and turn it round. occasionally. If the cake is large, cut it into thin slices before heating it. It will be ready for use in about an hour. Star-Gazy Pie (a favourite Cornish dish).—This pie is thus named because the heads of the fish are usually placed mouth uppermost in the centre of the lid of the crust, . as pigeon’s legs are in a pigeon pio, and there- fore the fish are supposed to be gazing at the sky or the stars. Take as many fresh herrings or mackerel as will fill a moderate-sized dish. Scale, empty, and open them, and remove the. bones. Lay them flat on the table, season the inside of each with salt, cayenne, and chopped parsley, and roll it up neatly. Butter the pie- dish, and sprinkle upon it a thick layer of finely-grated bread-crumbs, lay in some of the. fish, and fill the dish with alternate layers of fish and bread-crumbs. Cover the contents of the pie with a few slices of fat bacon or the fat of a ready-dressed ham, and pour over all six eggs beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, or, if preferred, half a quarter of a pint of cream. Cover the dish with a good crust, and bake the pie in a well-heated oven. Arrange the heads of the fish in the centre of the pastry ; when the pie is baked put a piece of parsley into the mouth of each fish, and serve. Time, one hour to an hour and half. Steaming.—This is a process of cookery which is particularly adapted to very deli- cate preparations. It is sometimes carried on upon a large scale, and then an apparatus for the special purpose is provided. In ordinary kitchens, pei every-day dishes, a kitchen steamer will be all that is required. The article of food which is to be steamed should be prepared as for boiling. It should then be placed in a steamer, which has a seni es | lid, over a saucepan full of boiling water, an this water should be kept boiling, and should be replenished as it boils away. When dny: delicate preparation is to be steamed, the cook should on no account boil anything strong and highly flavoured in the vessel under it. For STE ( 924 ) STO instance, liquor containing vegetables must not be boiled under a pudding, or the flavour of the latter will be entirely spoilt. If a proper steamer should not be at hand, a substitute may be improvised for steaming puddings, &c., as follows :—Turn a plate upside down in a sauce- pan, and surround it with about three inches of fast-boiling water. Place the mould con- taining the pudding on the plate, cover the saucepan closely, and keep the water gently boiling rourd it. Lay around of oiled paper on the top of the mould. Sterz Meal (see Meal, Sterz). Stew, Bachelor’s (see Beef, Bachelor's Stew). Stew, English (see English Stew) Stewing.—This is a mode of cookery much favoured by French cooks. It is wholesome and excellent, as well as most, economical, not only on account of the small quantity of fuel which is required to keep up the gentle simmer- ing, which alone is needed, but also because food cooked in this way, even if coarse and hard in itself, may often be renaered tender, delicious, and palatable. Inexperienced cooks too often confound stewing with boiling, and thus they convert meat or poultry that would be excel- lent and delicate if properly dressed into some- thing dry, hard, and indigestible. It should be understood that when we speak of stewing anything we simply mean simmering it gently in a saucepan which has a closely-fitting lid ever a gentle fire. Stewing is best done over a stove. At times when the old-fashioned kitchen range is in use, however, the cook should place her stewpan on a trivet high above the fire, and watch it constantly, in order that she may move it nearer to the flame, or further from it, as occasion requires. The ebullition, though very gentle, should be continuous. Sometimes meat to be stewed is put into a jar with a closely-fitting lid, and this is placed in a sauce- pan of fast-boiling water. Then the gravy extracted is really the juice of the meat. The greatest cleanliness should be observed in all vessels which are to be used for stewing. Enamelled saucepans are excellent, because ey can be so easily and thoroughly cleansed. Well-tinned copper ones are, however, the best for the purpose, though well-tinned iron ones will answer for ordinary cookery. The cook, however, should be particularly careful that the tinning of copper vessels is in good condition, for if it is at all worn away, the preparation stewed in it may become poisonous, and most lamentable consequences may ensue. Stewing, Mr. Buckmaster on.— Stewing is a gradual simmering. It may be done in a saucepan over the fire, or in a stone jar which will stand the fire, with a lid fitting steam-tight. The common red jar is not to be recommended ; it does not stand the heat, and the glaze, which is a composition of lead, often gives way in the presence of salt. Stone jars are preferable to metal saucepans; they can be easily cleaned, and they retain the heat better. For stewing, select lean meat, free from blood. The quantity of water should be about a quart to a pound of meat; but this liquor will be very rich, and it can easily be reduced if necessary with warm water. Add about a tea- spoonful of salt to a quart of water—I think salt is best added towards the end of the cooking, as the tendency is to harden the meat. Peas when boiled with salt pork will remain hard throughout the cooking. Bring the water gradually to the boil, remove all the scum, and let the contents simmer till the flavour of the meat is absorbed in the liquor. Remove all the fat, which can be eaten with bread, or used for puddings or frying. All.and every kind of meat will do for a stew. They may be used together or separately, according to taste or convenience. The better the meat, the better the stew; but by careful stewing the coarsest and roughest parts will become soft, tender, and easily digested, which would not be possible by any other method of cooking. All the gristly parts —the feet, shanks, knuckles—should be stewed. There is no other way of cooking these parts to advantage. They require time, and this is often the difficulty and objection; but what is there to prevent a woman, when the family are all sitting round the fire in the evening, think- ing about to-morrow’s dinner? The fire which warms the children will also cook their dinner. The great vice of most women, not only among the poor, but among the middle classes, is that they never think of cooking till they feel hungry. Trimmings of all kinds of meat can sometimes be purchased cheaply. A woman who has but little to spend should watch her opportunities. Sheep’s feet, the shank-bones of legs of mutton, and pieces of bone and gristle, are often thrown away as useless. We used formerly to send ox tails to the tan-yard, and even now much goes there which could be turned into good food. Twopence or three- pence spent in the purchase of bones—although containing little meat, they contain 30 per cent. of gelatine, and may be made to yield excellent food; large bones should be broken into small pieces, and allowed to simmer till every piece of bone is white and dry. I have said nothing about flavouring or thickening, or adding vegetables. As a rule, all ceoeeebs except potatoes may be cut into slices and cooked in the stew; or, if preferred, they may be cooked separately, and added afterwards. Carrots, tur- nips, parsnips, swedes, cabbages, leeks, onions, celery, beetroot, vegetable-marrow—any or all of these may be used in a stew. Stews, Forcemeat for (see Forcemeat for Fish, Soups, or Stews). Stews, Onions for Garnishing (see Onions, Brown, for Garnishing Stews). Stilton Cheese (see Cheese, Stilton). Stock.—Stock is the basis of all meat- sauces, soups, and purées. It is really the juice of meat extracted by long and gentle simmer- ing, and in making it, it should be remembered that the object to be aimed at is to draw the goodness out of the materials into the liquor. It may be prepared in various ways, richly and expensively, or economically, and recipes for all modes are given in this work. All general stock, or stock which is to be used for miscellaneous purposes, should be simply STO ( 925 ) STO made, that is, all flavouring ingredients should ‘be omitted entirely until its use is decided upon. The stock will then keep longer than it would do if vegetables, herbs, and spices were boiled in it, besides which the flavouring can be adapted to its special purpose. To ensure its keeping, stock should be boiled and skimmed every day in summer, and every other day in winter. The pan and the lid used in making it should be scrupulously clean. A tinned iron pan is the best for the purpose. Those who need to practise economy will do well to procure a digester, which is a kind of stock-pot made with the object of retaining the goodness of the materials, and preventing its escape in steam. When ready, stock should be poured into an earthenware pan, and left uncovered until it is cold. It should on no account be allowed to cool in a metal pan. Before being used, every particle of fat which has settled on the surface should be removed, and the liquor should be poured off free from sodiment. A few years ago it was customary for cooks to make stock with fresh meat only, the rule being a pound of meat to a pint of. stock. Altered prices have necessitated the adoption of more economical methods, and now excellent stock is constantly made with the bones and trimmings of meat and poultry, with the addition or not of a little fresh meat, or a portion of Liebig’s Extract of Meat. In a house where meat is regularly used, a good cook will never be without a little stock. Broken remnants of all kinds will find their way to the stock-pot, and will not be thrown away until, by gentle stewing, they have been made to yield to the utmost whatever of fla- vour and of goodness they possessed. When fresh meat is used it is better for being freshly killed. The liquor in which fresh meat has been boiled should always be used as stock. (See PRincipLEs oF CooKERY, XXvV.) Stock, Browning for. — There are various ways of browning stock. The best of all is to let it boil to a glaze when making it, and then to let it colour itself over the fire. Stock made from bones cannot be thus coloured, and it is therefore necessary to impart a brown look to it by other means. The addition of Liebig’s Extract answers the purpose slightly, but not always sufficiently. Burnt onions and colouring-balls may be bought, which are manufactured expressly for this end, but they often impart an unpleasant flavour to the soup. Brown thickening may be used when it is wished that the stock should be thickened as well as browned, though it must be remembered that after it is added the stcck must simmer by the side of the fire, that it may throw up the fat, which should be removed. . Liquid browning, which can be bottled and used os required, may be made as follows :—Put a quarter of a pint of moist sugar into a stewpan, and let it remain over a gentle fire till it ismelted. Keep stirring it with a wooden spoon till it is almost black, then pour upon it a pint of water, and let it temain until dissolved. Three or four drops will colour a pint of stock. Stock, Clarifying.—When from some accident the stock is not as clear and bright as it should be, proceed as follows:—For a quart of stock whisk the white of an egg with a quarter of a pint of water. Stir this briskiy into the stock when it is just warm, let it boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Draw it back, and keep it boiling gently for half an hour, continuing to skim it when possible. Let it stand for a quarter of an hour to settle, and strain it through a jelly-bag. If three or four ounces of lean meat are minced and pounded to pulp, and mixed with the white of egg before it is put in, the stock will be enriched as well as cleared. Stock-fish.—This is the commercial term used to denote salted and dried cod and other fish of the same family, particularly hake, ling, and torsk. The fish is cured as soon as possible after being caught. It is first split up from head to tail, and thoroughly cleaned by plentiful washings with salt water; a piece of the backbone is then cut away, and after the superfluous water has been drained off, the fish are laid in long vats, covered with ‘salt, and kept down by means of heavy weights. After a time they are taken out, washed and brushed, and laid out, exposed to the action of sun and air, on rocks or on a sandy beach. They are afterwards piled up into little heaps, and when they have acquired a fine whitish appearance, known as the bloom, they are considered ready for the market. The quantity of stock-fish cured on the southern coasts of Britain is in- considerable, but it is otherwise in the north. The cod, ling, and hake fisheries of Scotland rank next in importance to its herring fishery. Stock for Aspic Jelly (economical).— Put a pint of stock into a saucepan. Add two ounces of gelatine, a bay-leaf, a small sprig of thyme, three cloves, three shallots, and a quarter of a blade of mace, and stir the liquor over the fire till the gelatine is dissolved. Pour it out, and let it become almost cold. Whisk the white of an egg with a quarter of a pint of water. Add the crushed shell of the egg, and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Put the stock again in the saucepan, and stir the mix- ture briskly into it over the fire till it boils. Let it boil for ten minutes and then settle for ten minutes. Strain through a jelly-bag into a large shallow dish, and when cold and stiff the jelly will be fit for use. Time, altogether, about an hour. Stock for Jelly (see Calf’s Foot Stock for Jelly). Stock for Soup (see Mutton Stock for Soup). Stock freed from Fat.—Let the stock get cold, then carefully take from it the coating of fat which lies on the top. If it is still greasy, put it into a saucepan, simmer gently by the side of the fire, and carefully skim off the fat as it rises until no more appears. If after it is: put into the tureen bubbles of fat appear on the surface, remove as much as possible by skim- ming, and take off what remains by laying a piece of blotting-paper or, failing this, of com- mon brown paper, lightly on the top, so that the grease may adhere to it. STO (926 ) STO Stock, Game.—Take.the remains of roast game of any kind, and break them up into small pieces. Butter a saucepan, and line the ‘bottom of it with thin slices of lean ham. Placo the. picces of game upon this, almost cover them with stock made from bones or, failing this, with water, and boil the liquor quickly over a brisk fire till it is reduced to glaze. Draw it back a little, and let it colour; then add as much additional stock as it will bear, together with carrots, turnips, onions, celery, cloves, and salt, as required. Let it simmer gently until it is done enough, and strain it off for use. The remains of game will make excel- lent stock, and it would be very extravagant to use game for this purpose without first taking off the best of the meat. When, however, a bird is too old and tough to be dressed in the ordinary way, it may be placed in the stock- pot, but its flavour will be best brought out if it is partially roasted before being stewed. Stock, General.—Take one pound of shin of beef, cut it into pieces the size of a wal- nut, and put these into a delicately clean stew- pan with two-pennyworth of bones broken up small and five pints of cold spring water. If there are trimmings of meat or poultry in the house they may be thrown into the pot, as also a little bacon-rind which has been first scalded and scraped. Bring the contents of the pan slowly to the boil, carefully remove the scum as it rises, and throw in a spoonful of cold water now and then to assist it in doing so. An onion witha clove stuck into it, a turnip, a carrot, two leeks, a few outer sticks of celery, a salt-spoonful of whole pepper, and a little salt may be added if liked. Draw the saucepan to the side of the. fire, and let its contents simmer very gently. Keep the saucepan. closely covered, excepting when it is necessary to take off the lid for the purpose of skimming. Strain the soup into an earthénware pan, and remove the fat when it forms on the surface. Time to simmer the stock, four hours. Probable cost, 1s.4d. Suf- ficient for two quarts of stock. n ; Stock made from Bones.—Take the. bones of a leg of mutton or of a piece. of beef weighing seven or eight: pounds before cooking, or if these are not at hand, take two penny- worth of fresh bones. Break them up into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan with three quarts of cold water. Bring the liquor gently to the boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer gently for five or six hours. Pour it into an earthenware jar, and the next day remove the fat from the top, and pour it back free from sediment. Put with it a large carrot, a handful of fresh parsley, a large onion into which two or three cloves have been stuck, a few outer sticks of celery, or about as much celery-seed as will lie on a threepenny-piece, a turnip, if young, a couple of leeks, if they can be obtained, a lump of sugar, and a little salt and cayenne. Sim- mer the soup again, and if necessary add cold water, a little at a time, to keep up the quantity to two quarts. Simmer all gently together an hour and a half longer; strain the liquor off again, and stir in with it a good tea- spoonful of extract of meat. If it is necessary to clarify the stock, do not put in the extract until the stock has been made clear. ' If expe. dition is desired, the vegetables and the bones may be boiled altogether. Time, five hours the first day, one hour and a half the next. Suf- ficient for two quarts of stock. Stock made from Cow-heel.—Excel- lent stock for soup may be made by boiling a cow-heel and two pounds of shin of beef in water. The meat may be converted into mock potted head—a relishing dish for breakfast or supper. Cleanse a cow-heel, and put it into a stewpan with two pounds of shin of beef, not cut up, and three quarts of water. Adda large carrot, a turnip, an onion stuck with three cloves, six peppercorns, six allspice, a bunch of herbs, a blade of mace, and a slice of lemon- rind. Bring the liquor slowly to the boil, and simmer gently two hours. If the meat is to be made into brawn, take it out at this point, and let the heel simmer alone until the stock is sufficiently strong. Carefully remove the scum as it rises, and when the stock is done enough, pour it into an earthenware pan, and use as required. To make the mock potted head, cut both the beef and the cow-heel into small pieces. Soak half a packet of gelatine in cold stock for twenty minutes; dissolve it ina pint of boiling stock, add the pieces of meat, and pour the whole into an oiled mould to remain until cold. Potted head made in this way may be garnished according to taste. One or two hard-boiled eggs, some ‘slices of beet- root, and a little chopped parsley, if placed tastefully in the jelly at the bottom of the mould, will greatly improve its appearance. Time, five or six hours to boil the cow-heel. Probable cost, 2s. 6d: Sufficient for two quarts of stock and one shape of brawn. Stock, Meat.—Meat from which stock has been made, if simmered gently till it is tender only, and not so long as to reduce it to rags, may be served as a stew, with part of the stock thickened for gravy. Or good potted meat may be made of it (see Beef, Potted), Stock-pot.—The best stock-pots are those made of well-tinned iron or copper, as they are most easily cleaned, and in making stock clean- liness is of the utmost importance. Into the stock-pot should be thrown all the bones and trimmings of meat and poultry, either dressed or undressed. In an economically-conducted household, nothing will be thrown away until all the goodness has been extracted from it. Stock, Quickly made.—Take an onion, peel it, split it in halves, and stick two cloves into if; put it into a saucepan witha pint and a half of water, a bunch of fresh green parsley- leaves, a tea-spoonful of gelatine, and a little salt andcayenne. A stick or two of celery or a few celery-seeds, or a very small pinch of dried tarragon may be added, if they are at hand, as they will greatly assist the flavour of the stock. Boil the liquor till the gelatine is dissolved, strain it into a bowl, and press the onion and parsley so as to get as much of the goodness out of them as possible. If the gelatine was good,.the stock will be bright and clear. Stir STO ( 927 ) sTO into it until dissolved a tea-spoonful of extract of meat, and it will be ready for use. Itmay be served as it is, as clear soup, or a little macaroni or vermicelli may be added to it, though they should be boiled separately, or the soup will not be clear; or a few vegetables cut as for Julienne soup may be put in (see. Vegetables, Dried), or a few fresh tarragon-leaves may _ be finely shred and thrown,in. Probable cost, plain, 3d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Stock, Rich and Strong.—Take two “pounds of the shin of beef and two pounds of knuckle of veal; cut the meat into small pieces, and break up the bones. Butter a saucepan, line it with slices of lean ham or bacon, lay the pieces of meat upon it; add the bones and any ‘trimmings ‘of meat or poultry that may be at hand. An old hen or the carcase of a rabbit or roasted chicken will be valuable additions. . Pour in a pint of water, cover the saucepan, and boil it quickly, stirring it frequently till it is reduced to glaze. Let this brown gently or not, as required, pour in three quarts of cold water, and when this boils add a large onion stuck with two cloves, a few sticks of celery, a large carrot, a young turnip, half a blade of mace, a bunch of savoury herbs, a few pepper- corns, and a little salt. Remove the scum carefully as it rises, and add a spoonful of cold water occasionally to assist it in doing so; simmer the stock gently for four hours; strain it into an earthenware pan, and when it is quite cold, carefully remove the fat fromthe top. Time to simmer the stock, three to four hours. Stock, Second.— Meat and vegetables boiled a second time with fresh liquor, &c., is “second stock.” This stock is stiffer than ‘first stock,” and is used for braizing. It may be boiled down again to make glaze or portable soup, which will be of great use, either to enrich soups or sauces, or to improve the ap- pearance of various joints (see Glaze). If liked, half the original quantity of vegetables and seasoning may be added to the liquor. To make it, boil the stock very gently for five or six hours. Strain it through a hair sieve into an earthenware pan. When it is cold, carefully remove the fat from the top, and pour it off gently, not to disturb the settlings, into a well-tinned saucepan. Keep the sauce- pan uncovered over « brisk fire, skim the liquor when necessary, and boil it quickly till it begins to thicken. Reduce the heat of the fire, and boil the stock gently till it looks like thin treacle. Be very careful that it does not burn, and when it has boiled until a little taken out in a spoon will when cold set into a stiff jelly, strain it into small jars, perfectly dried, to the thickness of an inch and a half, and Jet it remain in a cool place till wanted. If properly made, it will keep.six months. If, after a few days, it does not appear sufficiently hard, put the jar containing it into a large saucepan of boiling water, and keep this water boiling rapidly round it until the’ glaze has evaporated sufficiently. It must not be put into the saucepan again, as it will be in great danger of burning or of ‘acquiring an unpleasant flavour. Time, two days to make the glaze. 7 Stock, Superior Clear’ Brown, for Soups and Sauces, made from Fresh Meat.—Take three pounds and a half of ‘the shin of beef or knuckle of veal and a quarter of a pound of lean ham:' Cut the meat into pieces the size of an egg, and break the bones into small pieces. Butter the bottom of the stewpan, lay in it the ham, then the veal, and add the bones and any trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand. Pour in as much water as will cover the meat. Cover the pan, put it on a brisk fire, and boil its contents quickly, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon till the bottom of the pan is covered with a thick white glaze. Throw some cinders on the fire to lower the temperature, and let the pan remain on it until the glaze becomes a bright brown colour without being at all burnt. Pour in four quarts of cold stock or water, bring the liquor to the point of boiling, then draw it to the side, and simmer gently, skim- ming with scrupulous care for two hours if veal is used, and for four hours if beef is used. Strain through a fine sieve into an earthenware pan, and when the stock is cold remove the grease. If flavouring is wanted, a turnip, a carrot, two onions, each with one clove stuck in it, half a leek, a few sticks of celery, a bay-leaf, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme, may be stewed in the liquor. Add pepper and salt as required ; the quantity of salt needed will depend upon the quality of the ham. Probable cost, 3s. Stock, To Keep Good.—In cold weather stock will keep for several days. In hot weather it should be boiled every day. It should always be poured into an earthenware bowl, and when nearly cold, put into a cool larder. It should on no account be allowed to remain in the stewpan all night. Stock, White, for White Soups and Sauces.—tTake three pounds of the knuckle of veal and a quarter of a pound of lean ham. Cut the meat into small pieces, break up the bones, and add any trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand, with a little pepper and a small pinch‘of salt. The carcase of a fowl or rabbit willbe a valuable addition. Put the meat into the stewpan, and pour upon it four quarts of cold water. to the boil, draw it to the side, skim carefully, and-let it simmer gently for three hours. Strain it into an earthenware pan till wanted. If liked, a carrot, a turnip, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a small piece of mace may be added. Stock with Fried Bread,—Cut a slice of stale crumb of bread into dice; moisten these with stock, put a slice of dripping on them, and fry over a slow fire till they are brown and crisp. Lay them in a dish, and place upon them one or two slices of the crumb of bread which have been soaked in stock and drained. Serve nicely-flavoured stock in a tureen with the bread thus prepared. This dish is specially suited for children and in- valids. Stone Cream.—Put a little apricot, plum, or cherry jam into a glass.dish. Grate wnon it the rind of a lemon, and _ add the strained juice. Pour over it as much liquid blancmange nearly Bring the liquor . . STO cold as will cover it. Serve the cream when stiff and cold, and ornament the surface with a little pink sugar, knobs of red-currant jelly, or strips of preserved fruit, or blanched almonds. The blancmange may be made with ising]ass, gelatine, or fine arrowroot. Stone-fruit, Wholesomeness of.— Stone-fruit, generally speaking, is less digestible when eaten raw than the other descriptions of fruit; to healthy persons, however, when ripe, and consumed in moderation, it is not injurious. | certainly deteriorate in quality with keeping. Plums have acquired a character for causing disorder and diarrhoea which they scarcely deserve. Undoubtedly with some persons they disagree, and indeed, with all, if they are eaten immoderately or in bad condition; but that they, or fruits generally, are the cause of the regular autumnal or British cholera, is a fallacy which has been established in the popular mind in consequence of the season at which plums areripe, the “ plum-season’’ being coincident with that at which people in this country, who have been exposed to the effects of the sum- mer’s heat are most liable to that outbreak of accumulated bile which is known as bowel romplaint, or English, or British, or summer cholera. Store-rooms and Stores.—A_ clean, tidy, well-arranged store-room is one sign of a good methodical housekeeper. Where stores are put away anyhow, and taken out at any time and in any quantity, we have good grounds for supposing that disorder and ex- travagance prevail. A store-room ought to be large, airy, cool, and dry. Such a room is not always to be had, but even if a closet has to be put up with, it may be kept clean. Shelves should be arranged round the walls, hooks fastened to the edges of the shelves. The driest and coolest part of the room should be kept for jams, jellies, and pickles. All the jars should be distinctly labelled at the front, so that they will not all need to be taken down every time a particular jar is wanted. Biscuits or cakes should be kept in closely-covered tin boxes; lemons should be hung in nets. Soap should be bought in large quantities, and cut up in convenient-sized pieces, so that it may be dry before it is used. Coffee, when roasted, should be kept in small quantities ; if unroasted, it will improve with keeping. Stores should on no account be left in the papers in which they were sent from the grocer’s, but shoyld be put into tin canisters or earthenware jars closely covered, and each jar, like the jam, should be labelled. Stores should be given out regularly, either daily or weekly. In order to check their consumption, the housekeeper will do well to keep in the store-room a memorandum-book with a pencil fastened to it, and in this book she should enter the date on which all stores were brought in or taken out. By means of these memoranda she can compare one week’s outgo with another, and immediately discover any extravagance. A hammer, a few nails, a little gum, a ball of string, a few sheets of foolscap, and a pair of scissors, should always be kept in the store-room. Store Sauce (see Kitchiner’s Store Sauce). ( 928 ) ‘STR Store Sauce or Cherokee (see Cherokee or Store Sauce). Store Sauces.—Many varieties of excel- lent store sauces may be bought of the grocer and Italian warehouseman, and will prove of great value in colouring and flavouring soups, sauces, and stews. As, however, they are generally very strong, they should be added to any preparation with care. As they can be so easily procured, it is advisable to keep on hand a small quantity only of them, for they The bottles containing them should be tightly stoppered, and kept in a dry place. The store sauces most likely to be needed are mushrocm and walnut ketchup, essence of anchovies, chilli, cucumber, shallot, and tarragon vinegar, and Harvey or Worcester Sauce. Stout.—Stout is only a stronger form of porter. It is extensively brewed in London, Dublin, and elsewhere. Good draught stout contains an ounce and a half of alcohol in the pint. Stranger’s Cake, or Polly’s Cake.— Rub half a pound of butter or sweet dripping into a pound of flour. Add a small salt-spoon- ful of salt, three heaped tea-spoonfuls of baking- powder, a pound of ground rice, half a pound of moist sugar, a pound of picked currants or sultanas, and two ounces of candied peel. A little spice may be added if approved. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Mix the cake with four well-whisked eggs and a cupful of milk. Bake immediately in a moderate oven. Time to bake, two hours and a half or more. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. for a cake this size. Strasburg Fowl Pie, Mock Fowl Pie, Mock Strasburg). Strasburg Goose.—The Strasburg goose is an animal that has to submit, for the sake of the luxuries of mankind, to a very peculiar operation. It is tied down to a board, and put in front of a fire, which appears very cruel; but it does not hinder the animal from getting fat. It is fed with barley-meal, and it thus takes in much more starch than is necessary to maintain its heat, and the consequence is, the starch is converted into fat and deposited in greatest abundance in the liver. The goose is then killed, the liver is taken out, and these distended livers are the precious morceaua con- tained in the pété de foie gras (which see). Strawberries. — This delicious summer fruit is known both in Europe and America. It belongs to temperate and rather cold climates. It may be eaten fresh, or made into preserves. It derives its name from the practice of putting straw under the berries to keep them clean whilst they ripen. Ripe strawberries may be kept for two or three days by putting them on ice, or keeping them in a cool dark place. Strawberries and Cream.—Procure the fruit when it is freshly gathered and just ripe. If it is not to be eaten immediately, keep it in a cool place till wanted; but the fresher it is the better. Pick the strawberries, and remove every imperfect and unsound berry. Do not wash them unless it is absolutely (see STR ({ 929 ) STR necessary. If, however, they are dusty or not quite fresh, they may be cleansed and freshened by taking them in handfuls and passing them quickly through a basin of cold water. They should not be allowed to remain in it one instant. It the strawberries have been gathered jn rainy weather, it is very desirable that this cleansing process should be performed. Straw- perries are very delicious served with thick cream (Devonshire cream is the best) and finely- powdered sugar. These accompaniments should be sent to table separately, as if the sugar is put upon them, even for a short time, it will draw out their juice and change their colour. CANS aay, ® STRAWBERRIES. 1. Keen's Seedling. 2. British Queen. 3. Dr. Hogg. (Two-thirds the natural size.) Strawberries, Bottled. — Gather the strawberries in dry weather when they are ripe, but not over-ripe. Pick them without bruising them, and put them into perfectly dry wide-mouthed bottles. Shake them down, and fill the bottles with clear syrup made by boil- ing three-quarters of a pound of refined sugar with half a pint of water. Cork the bottles tightly, and tie them down with string. Wrap straw round them to keep them from being broken, and put them into a large stewpan with cold water up to their necks. Let the water be made to boil, then draw the pan to the side, and let it simmer gently for ten minutes. Take the pan off the fire, and leave the bottles untouched till they are cold. Refit the corks, tie them down again, if neces- sary wax them over, and store for use. Time to simmer, ten minutes. _ Strawberries, Bottled, for Flavour- ing Purposes. —Gather the fruit in dry weather, pick it from the bolls, discard any bruised or unsound berries, and weigh it with an equal weight of finely-powdered sugar. Fill perfectly dry wide-mouthed bottles with alter- nate layers of fruit and sugar, and:shake them gently to mix them. Cork the bottles closely, and cover the corks with bladder which has been cleaned, dried, and moistened with spirit on the side which is to be next the cork. Store ina cool dry place. The strawberries should be perfectly fresh when they are thus preserved. 59—n.E. Strawberries, Compdte of.—Take a pint of freshly-gathered ripe strawberries. Pick them, and put them into a bowl. Pour over them a little clear syrup which has been made by boiling a quarter of a pint of water with five ounces of sugar for ten minutes. Cover the bowl containing them with a plate, and let them stand for an hour or more. Drain off the syrup; ° boil it for a few minutes, skim it, and strain it, over the strawberries piled in the centre of a compéte-dish. The flavour of this dish will be greatly improved if a wine-glassful of red- currant juice is added to the syrup. When it is at hand, a glass of maraschino may also be added with advantage. For a superlative dish, the syrup, after being flavoured with maraschino or kirschenwasser, may be set in ice till it is almost frozen, and in this condition poured over the fruit. Time to soak the strawberries, one hour. Probable cost, strawberries, 4d. to 8d. per pound. Strawberries, Indian.—This plant is a native of the Himalaya mountains, and grows luxuriantly, and produces fruit in abundance in Britain, if only protected from severe frosts. The flowers of the Indian strawberry are yellow, not white, and the fruit is very beautiful, not hanging down as in the case of other straw. berries, but growing with its apex upwards. It is not, however, of a very tempting quality. Strawberries, Preserved.—The fruit must be gathered in very dry weather, when there has been no rain for at least two days. Take equal weights of loaf sugar broken into pieces and picked fruit. Barely cover the sugar with cold water, and add a pinch of cream of tartar. Melt the sugar, put it on the fire, and boil it until a little of it which has been dropped from the end of a spoon into some very cold water can be rolled into a soft ball, which is not at all sticky. When the sugar has reached this condition put the straw- berries into it, cover the pan, and leave it for an hour. Place it ona quick fire, boil it for two minutes, skim it well, and it is done. There is another method of preserving straw- berries or raspberries which is very much approved. Pick the fruit, and press it with a wooden spoon through a coarse sieve. Weigh it, and allow a pound of sugar to every pound of pulp. Boil the sugar, and as soon as it has attained the fourth degree (see Sugar, Boiled) mix the pulp with it. Let it stand for five minutes, stir it over the fire till it boils, and it is done, If liked, the sugar, instead of being boiled, may be crushed to powder and incor- porated with the pulp, which must then be put into bottles, and boiled as in Straw- berries, Bottled. There is another mode of preserving them whole, by placing them, when they are fresh-gathered, into glass _pickle- bottles, strewing their weight of sifted ;sugar over as they are put in, and filling up the bottles with either boiling-hot malaga wine or boiling sweet malmsey. This is the most expensive, though the least troublesome.. (See next recipe.) Strawberries Preserved in Wine.— Take the fruit when perfectly ripe and fresh; pick it, and put it immediately into dry wide- STR mouthed bottles. Sprinkle amongst it four ‘ounces of powdered sugar with each pound of fruit, and let the bottles be filled to the neck. Pour in good sherry or madeira to cover the fruit. Cork the bottles securely, wax them down, and store in a cool dry place. Strawberries, Preserved Whole.— Take perfectly sound ripe strawberries which have been gathered in dry weather; pick and weighthem. Put them in layers on a large dish, and sprinkle finely-powdered sugar between the layers—a pound of sugar will be required for every pound of fruit. Let them stand all night. Next day put thé whole gently into a clean pre- serving-pan. Let it boil; shake the pan to keep the strawberries from burning, and pass a spoon round the edges; but be careful not to crush the fruit. Remove the scum as it rises, and boil the fruit gently for a quarter of an hour. Drain the juice from the berries, and boil it separately for half an hour. If liked, a pint of red-currant juice boiled to syrup with half a pound of sugar may be added for each pound of strawberries, and this will greatly improve the flavour of the preparation. Pour the boil- ing juice upon the fruit, put both again into the pan, and boil the mixture for a quarter of an hour, or till the juice will set when a little is put upon a plate. Put the preserved fruit into jars, cover in the usual way, and store in a cool place. Strawberries preserved thus are very good served in glasses, mixed with cream. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. per pound. Strawberries, Preserved Whole (another way).—Pick and weigh the berries, and put them in layers on a dish with finely- powdered sugar interspersed amongst them, using a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Leave them until the next day, put them gently into a preserving-pan, and when the juice is just about to boil turn all into a colander, and drain off the juice. Let it boil, then pour it upon the fruit, and leave it until the next day. Put it again on the fire, let it reach the point of boiling once more, and again pour it out. Drain it, let it get cold, then pour it on the fruit, and repeat this process for four or five, days. Put the fruit into jars, cover these, and store for use. A pint of red-currant juice for six pounds of fruit, boiled to syrup with half a pound of sugar, and added to the juice during the last boiling, will greatly im- prove the flavour of this preparation. ‘Time, five days. Strawberries, Wholesomeness of.— The strawberry must be ranked amongst the most wholesome productions of the vegetable kingdom. It is recorded of Fontenelle that he ascribed his longevity to them, in consequence of their having regularly cooled a fever which he had every spring; and that he used to say, “Tf I can but reach the season of strawberries.” Boerhaave regarded their continual use as one of the principal remedies in cases of obstruction and viscidity, and in putrid disorders. Hoff- man furnishes instances of obstinate disorders cured by them, even consumption, and Linnsous says that by eating plentifully of them he kept himself free from gout. gx ~ ( 930 ) STR Strawberry Acid.—Dissolve five ounces of tartaric acid in two quarts of cold spring water, and pour this into an earthenware pan over twelve pounds of picked ripe strawberries. Leave them until the next day, then strain off the liquor without bruising the fruit. Puta pound and a half of powdered and sifted loaf sugar with each pint of clear liquor, stir it until dissolved, ant bottle for use. Raspberry acid may be made in the same way. Time, two days. Strawberries, 4d. to 8d. per pound. Strawberry, Alpine. — Unlike other kinds of strawberries, the Alpine strawberry has a tall stem and erect manner of growth. The fruit, which is either red or white, is not very large, but is produced in great abundance, and is to be had long after other Jsinds are out of season. Strawberry and Custard Puen —Take four ounces ‘of finely-grated bread: crumbs. Place four table-spoonfuls of straw- berry jam in a buttered pie-dish, cover this with the bread-crumbs, and add some good * nicely-flavoured custard made with a pint of milk, two eggs, and a little sugar. Stir the custard over the fire till it begins to thicken, pour it gradually upon the bread-crumbs, and bake the pudding in a moderately-heated oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Strawberry Blancmange. — Take a quart of clear stiff blancmange made with isinglass or gelatine. Sweeten this, and stir into it the juice which has been drawn from a quart of fresh strawberrics. Mix the ingre- dients thoroughly, put the blancmange into a damp mould, and leave it in a cool place till set. Turn it upon a glass dish, and serve. To draw the juice from the strawberries, pick them, spread them on a large flat dish, and sprinkle over them about six table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Let them stand for six or eight hours, and pour away for use the syrup which has flowed from them. ‘ _ Strawberry Cardinal.—Hull a quart of ripe, finely-flavoured strawberries, and discard all berries that are unsound or bruised. Sprinkle upon them a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, and pour over them half a bottle of Rhine wine. Cover closely, and let them stand in a cool place for half an hour. Just before they are to be served, pour over them the remainder of the wine, with another bottle, either of moselle or of the same wine. Adda bottle of seltzer, and serve. If liked, the liquor may be strained and bottled for use. . Strawberry Cheesecakes, — Take a quarter of a pint of ripe, finely-flavoured straw- berries, measured after the stalks haye been picked from them. Bruise them thoroughly with a wooden spoon in a basin, and mix with them a heaped table-spoonful of powdered sugar and two well-beaten eggs. Line some patty- pans with good pastry, three-parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven. If fresh fruit cannot be had, strawberry jelly may be used instead, and then no sugar will be required. Time to bake, ten minutes. STR (931 ) STR Strawberry Cream.—Pick the stalks from a pint of strawberries, sprinkle a tea-cup- ful of powdered sugar over them, bruise them well with a wooden spoon, and rub them through a fine hair sieve till all the juice has been taken from them: Dissolve an ounce and a half of isinglass or gelatine in three-quarters of a pint of new milk, adda pint of thick cream and the strawberry-juice. The cream should be whipped with a whisk before being used (see Oream, Whipped). Pour the cream into a damp mould ‘and set it in a cool place till stiff. A few drops of prepared cochineal may be added to improve the colour, If liked, the juice may be drawn from the fruit over the fire or in the oven. When fresh fruit cannot be obtained, half a pint of strawberry jam dissolved in two table-spoonfuls of water and strained may be used instead. Time, five minutes to simmer the cream. ; Strawberry Cream Ice (i la Musco- vite)—Pick the strawberries, bruise them with a wooden spoon, and rvb them through « fine hair sieve. Take one pint of the juice thus obtained, and stir into it until dissolved five ounces of -powdered sugar. Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in very little water, and add this to the juice. Let the basin containing the juice stand upon rough ice, and stir its contents without stopping until they begin to set. Whip a pint of cream, and mix it lightly with the iced strawberry-juice. Put the whole into an hermetically-closing ice-mould. Put a little butter round the opening to keep out the water, and place it in the ice-pail with pounded jce and bay-salt round it at least three inches thick. Let it remain until it is thoroughly frozen. When it is to be served, plunge the mould for one instant into a basin of hot water, turn it upside down upon a glass dish, when the ice will in all probability come out in a shape. If however it will not come out, dip it quickly into hot water. Time to freeze, about two hours. Strawberry Drops.—Weigh two ounces of strawberry purée—that is the thick juice of strawberries that have been rubbed through a fine hair sieve with eight ounces of coarsely- sifted white sugar. Stir the mixture over the fire with a wooden spoon till it has become liquid and is on the point of simmering. Take it off the fire, stir it briskly for a few minutes, then let the drops fall slowly out of the pan upon a’ baking-sheet. When cold, remove them with the point of a sharp knife, and put them in a warm place to dry. Strawberry Fool.—Take a quart of picked strawberries, ripe and finely-flavoured ; put them into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of white sugar; cover them closely, and let them stew gently for ten minutes, stirring the fruit now and again to keep it from burn- ing. Rub it through a fine hair-sieve with a wooden spoon, and when it is cold stir into it as much new milk as will make it of the consis- tency of custard. Serve quite cold, If cream is not to be had, and a rich dish is required, the yolks of two eggs may be mixed with the milk, and the custard may be stirred over tho fire till it is on the point-of boiling. Time, ten minutes to boil the fruit. seven persons. milk only. Strawberry Glacés.—Take a sponge cake two or three days old, and cut it into squares, rounds, and diamonds. Boil a pound of sugar with a pint of water to a clear syrup. Boil and skim this, and keep trying whether it is done enough by dropping a small portion of it at a time into a basin of cold water placed by the side of the stove for the purpose. If the sugar snaps when dropped into the water, and then remains hard, it is ready for the strawberry- juice, which should be added in such a quantity as to bring the syrup to 38°. Take the syrup from the fire, let it cool, and beat it with a wooden spoon till it is quite smooth. Stick the pieces of sponge biscuit one by one on the point. of a skewer, dip them into the icing, and place them on a sieve to drain. When all are done, put them in a cool oven for a minute or two to dry. Let them cool, and they will be ready for use. : Strawberry Hydropathic Pudding. —Although instructions are given for making this pudding with strawberries only, any other fruit, or any mixture of fruits, may be made into a pudding in the same way. Take a basin the size that the pudding should be. Put at the bottom a round piece of stale crumb of bread about the size of a five-shilling piece. Place round this, in an upright position, and about an inch apart from one another, fingers of bread, three or four inches long, according to the depth of the basin. Pick some strawberries, and boil them with a spoonful or two of water and as much sugar as will be required to sweeten them pleasantly until they are reduced to pulp. Put the hot fruit gently into the basin with a spoon, so as to disturb the bread as little as possible; coyer the surface of the fruit with little odds and ends of bread cut up into small dice, and press the pudding by putting a plate upon it with a weight on the top. Leave it in a cold place for three or four hours, or all night if convenient. When wanted, remove the weight and the plate, turn the pudding upon a dish, and serve. It will come out in a shape. A little custard or cream served with it will be a great improvement. The pudding derives its name from the fact that, thus made, it is served at one or two hydropathic establishments where the patients are not allowed to partake of pastry. Time, about a quarter of an hour ta boil the strawberries. Strawberry Ice and Vanilla Ice in one mould.—Flavour three-quarters of a pint of cream with half a stick of vanilla, by boiling them gently together for a short time ; sweeten the cream, mix with it the well-whisked yolks of three eggs, and stir the mixture over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken. Strain it into a bowl. Rub ripe strawberries through a sieve, and take half a pint of the juice. Tho- roughly mix with this half a pint of syrup at 35°, and freeze the two creams in the usual way- Put an ice-mould in ice for a short time. Place in the middle of it a piece of cardboard, cut se as to fit the mould, and to divide it into two equal parts. Put the vanilla ice at one side of the Sufficient for six or Probable cost, 1s., made with STR ( 932 ) STR division, and the strawberry ice at the other. Draw out the separating cardboard, close the mould, and surround it with ice till it is frozen. When wanted, plunge it into hot water for an instant, turn it upside down on a napkin ona dish, and serve. Sufficient for a quart of ice. Strawberry Ice Cream.—Pick the hulls off a pound of fresh, ripe, finely-flavoured strawberries, sprinkle half a pound of powdered sugar over them, bruise them well with a wooden spoon, and rub them through a fine hair sieve. Mix with the juice thus obtained a pint of thick cream, the juice of a lemon, anda few drops of cochineal. Freeze and mould in the usual way. Probable cost, strawberries, 4d. to 8d. per pound. Strawberry Ice made with Jam.— Although strawberry ices may be made with jam for convenience, they will not equal in flavour those made with fresh fruit. Take half a pound of strawberry jam; mix with it a pint of cream, or milk and cream mixed, and the strained juice of a lemon. Rub the mixture through a fine sieve into the freezing-pot, and freeze in the usual way. Put it into a mould, set it again in ice, and let it remain until wanted. Strawberry Isinglass Jelly.—Pick a quart of ripe red strawberries, put them into a bowl, and pour upon them a clear syrup made by boiling three-quarters of a pound of refined sugar with a pint of water for a quarter of an hour. Cover the dish, and leave the fruit to soak all night. Put two ounces and a half of isinglass into a saucepan with a pint of water which has been beaten up with half the white of anegg. Stir the mixture, and heat it gently till the isinglass is dissolved, carefully re- moving the scum till it ceases to rise. Strain the liquor through three or four folds of muslin, and when it is lukewarm, mix with it the syrup which has been drained from the strawberries, half a tea-cupful of red-currant juice, and the strained fuice of a fresh lemon. ix the ingredients thoroughly, put the jelly into a damp mould, and set it in a cool place or upon ice till it is set. If preferred, gela- tine may be substituted for the isinglass, and the jelly will then be less expensive. The . appearance of the mould will be improved if two or three spoonfuls of jelly are first poured into the mould, allowed to stiffen, then orna- mented with large ripe strawberries, and the mould filled with jelly and strawberries alter- nately. Time, eight or nine hours to set the jelly. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. Sufficient for two moderate-sized moulds. Strawberry Jam.— Gather the fruit after two or three days of dry weather, when it is fully ripe, but not over-ripe, or it will be flavour- less, and may be tainted with bitterness and the elements of decay. Pick the berries, and discard all that are at all unsound. Weigh the strawberries, and take three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar for each pound of fruit. Puta layer of berries into the preserving-pan, then a layer of sugar, and repeat until the pan is a little less than three-parts full. Set it at the aide of, but not upon, the fire, and keep stirring gently to prevent burning; but be careful not to crush the fruit. Very carefully remove the scum as it rises, and let the jam boil gently until a little put upon a plate will set, or be stiff. Take the panfrom the fire, let its contents cool for a few minutes, then pour the jam into jars. Cover in the usual way. The flavour of strawberry jam depends a great deal upon the season. When the summer is cold, wet, and sunless, it is difficult to make jam with the real perfume of the fruit, although it may be made to keep by long boiling and an extra allowance of sugar. ‘Time to boil, three quar- ters of an hour or more. Probable cost, straw- berries, 4d. to 8d. per pound. The. fruit can generally be bought cheaper by the peck. Strawberry Jam (another way).—Pick the strawberries, carefully look out and discard all that are unsound, and weigh the fruit. Boil it, stirring occasionally to keep it from burn- ing, for half an hour, then mix in thoroughly, off the fire, half a pound of loaf sugar broken into small pieces for each original pound of fruit. Boil the jam quickly half an hour longer, or till it will set, and put it into jars in the usual way. ‘Time to boil the fruit, half an _hour with the sugar, and half an hour without, the sugar. Strawberry Jam, Superior.—Straw- berry jam, although very delicious, is, if any- thing, too luscious. If made according to the following recipe, this fault will be corrected. Take the juice of three pints of ripe white or evenred currants. Put this into apreserving-pan, and throw in four pounds of treshly-gathered ripe strawberries which have been picked and carefully looked over. Let the fruit boil, remove the scum, and add four pounds of refined loaf sugar. Boil the jam quickly until done enough. Put it into jars, and cover these in the usual manner. Time to boil the jam, from thirty to forty minutes. Strawberry Jelly.— Take quite fresh fruit which has been gathered in dry weather. Pick the stalks from it, put it into a preserving- pan (an enamelled one is the best for the pur- pose), and place it by the side of a clear fire that the juice may be drawn gently from it. As soon as this flows freely, simmer it until the berries appear to collapse, but on no account allow the juice to remain on the fire till it thickens. Pour the fruit upon a well-scalded but dry sieve, and let the juice drain thoroughly from it; strain it through three or four thick. nesses of muslin, and weigh it. Boil quickly for twenty minutes, and stir frequently. Take the pan from the fire, and then add very gradually fourteen ounces of coarsely-pounded loaf sugar for each pound of fruit. Let one portion be dissolved before another is added ‘When all the sugar is dissolved, put the pan again on the fire, and boil the jelly until a little put upon a plate will stiffen. Pour the jelly into small jars, cover these in the usual way, and store in a cool dry place. Time to boil the jelly with the sugar, a quarter of an hour or more, according to the quality of the fruit. Probable cost, strawberries, from 4d. to 8d. per . pound; less if bought by the peck. STR ( 933 ) STU Strawberry Salad.—Take equal portions of strawberries and red and white currants. Pick them, place them in layers, and pile them ona dish. Sprinkle powdered sugar over them, and pour thick cream upon them. The cream and sugar should not be poured on the fruit till the last moment. If liked, other fruits, such as gooseberries, cherries, raspberries, &c., may be introduced into the salad. Strawberry Solid. — Dissolve three quarters of an ounce of isinglass by boiling it in a quarter of a pint of water. Press a pint of strawberries through a sieve and add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice and a little sugar. Add three quarters of a pint of cream and the dissolved isinglass when cool. Mix thoroughly. Pour the solid into a damp earthenware mould, as metal would spoil its colour, and when it is stiff it will be ready for use. If fresh strawberries are not at hand, jam may be used instead, but it will need to be rubbed through a tine sieve to keep out the seeds. Probable cost, 38s.6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Time, about an hour to prepare. Strawberry Vinegar.—This vinegar is excellent for flavouring sweet sauces, also a spoonful or two put into « tumblerful of cold water forms a refreshing summer drink. Gather the fruit in dry weather, when it is fully ripe and finely flavoured. Let it be quite fresh. Pick and weigh it, and put it into stone jars or wide-mouthed glass bottles, and over each pound pour a quart of best white-wine vinegar. Cover the jars closely, and let the strawberries infuse in the vinegar for three days. Drain it off, and put it upon fresh fruit. Let this stand three days, and repeat the operation a third time. Drain off the liquor closely, and let it run through a canvas bag dipped in vinegar. Measure it, and stir into it until almost dis- solved a pound of sugar broken up small for each pint of vinegar. Put it over a clear fire in an enamelled (not a metal) saucepan, and let it boil gently for five minutes. Pour it out, let it stand twelve minutes, skim it thoroughly, and bottle for use. Time, ten days. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per pint. Strawberry Water (arefreshing summer drink ).—Take half a pound of finely-flavoured strawberries. Bruise them well in a basin with a wooden spoon, and mix with them four table- spoonfuls of finely-powdered sugar and a quarter of a pint of cold water. Rub them through a fine sieve, and filter what passes through the sieve till it is clear and bright. Wash the dregs in the sieve with a little cold water to prevent waste. Add the strained juice of half a lemon and a pint of cold water to the liquor, and put it in ice or in a cool place till wanted. Time, about an hour to prepare. Probable cost, ee pint. Sufficient for about a quart of water. Strawberry Water Ice.—Pick a pound of ripe strawberries, and bruise them well with half a pound of red currants. Pour upon them a pint of clarified sugar, and add two or three drops of cochineal if liked. Rub the whole through a hair-sieve into a basin, and freeze in the usual way. Strawberry Wine.—A simple method of making strawberry wine is to add a little straw- berry-juice to good flavourless currant’ wine. To make it from fresh fruit, bruise three gallons of strawberries, and pour upon them three gallons of water. Let them infuse twenty-four hours. Strain the liquor through a canvas bag, and add eight pounds of lump sugar, two gallons of cider, one ounce of powdered red tartar, and the thin rind of a fresh lemon. When putting the wine into the cask a little brandy may be added if liked. Stuffing.—Stuffing is but a homely name for forcemeat, for the preparation of which various recipes are given under their appro- priate headings. In making forcemeat great care should be taken that the ingredients are equally and smoothly mixed, that no one par- ticular herb or spice overpowers the fla- vour of the rest; and that the seasoning is suited to the dish it is intended to accompany. Forcemeats should be of such a consistency that they can be cut through with a knife, yet they should neither be heavy nor dry. When they are made up into balls these should never be larger than a small nutmeg. When intended for soups or ragotits, they should be cooked before being added to the dish. They will need to be fried till brown for brown sauce, and boiled for three minutes for white sauce. Stuffing, Alexandre Dumas’ .—Stufiing prepared in the following way was originally in- tended for turkey (to ‘‘avoid spending forty or fifty francs on truffles”), but itis equally suited to hare. Mince together veal, chicken, and partridge flesh, if these are to be had, in small and equal portions, and add four ounces of ‘sausage-meat. Boil from fifteen to twenty fine Lyons chestnuts till tender in salt and water. A stick of celery may be simmered with them. When the chestnuts are done enough, crush them, and mix them with the mincemeat. Put aclove of garlic and a handful of fresh green parsley-leaves inside the hare, fill it with the stuffing, and sew up securely. Stuffing for Hare, Meg Dod’s.— Grate the crumb of a stale penny loaf, and soak it in port or claret. Mix with it four ounces of beef suet chopped small, a tea-spoon- ful of finely-shred parsley, a small pinch of minced shallot, a tea-spoonful of grated lemon- rind, « tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, and a little galt and cayenne. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and bind them together with yolk of egg. Put the forcemeat into the hare, and sew it up closely. If the liver is in a sound state, it may be parboiled, chopped, and mixed with the forcemeat. In the original recipe it was recommended that a boned anchovy should be added to this preparation. This may be in troduced or omitted, according to taste. Stuffings, Forcemeat, Dr. Kitchiner on.—Forcemeat is considered an indispensable accompaniment to most made dishes, and when composed. with good taste gives additional spirit and relish to even that “ Sovereign of Savouri- ness” —turtle soup. It is also sent up in patties STU ( 934 ) STU and for stuffing of veal, game, poultry, &c. The ingredients should be so proportioned that no flavour predominates. To give the same stuffing for veal, hare, &c., argues a poverty of invention; with a little contrivance you may make as great a variety as you have dishes. The poignancy of forcemeat should be pro- portioned to the savouriness of the viands to which it is intended to give an additional zest. Some dishes require a very delicately flavoured forcemeat—for others it must be full and highly seasoned. What would be piguante in a turkey would be insipid with turtle. Tastes are -so different, and the praise the cook receives will depend so much on her pleasing the palate of those she works for, that all her sagacity. must be on thealert to produce the flavours to which her employers are partial. Most people have an acquired and peculiar taste in stuffings, &c., and what exactly pleases one seldom is precisely what another considers the most agreeable, and after all the contrivance of a painstaking palatician to combine her “ haut gots” in the most exquisite proportions, the very dish one likes the best is acid or insipid to the rest. Sturgeon.—The sturgeon is a large fish somewhat resembling the shark in form. Its body is more or less covered with rows of bony spikes. In the north of Europe, and in some of the States of North America it is caught in abundance, but it is seldom met with in English rivers. It‘is said that those who have THE STURGEON. the good fortune to capture it are bound to send their prize to the reigning sovereign, as the sturgeon is regarded as a royal fish. The flesh of the sturgeon is agreeable and whole- some, and looks something like veal. ‘ It was 80 highly esteemed in ancient days that it was crowned before being brought to table, and a ‘band of music marched hele it. Its roe is converted into caviare, a favourite Russian delicacy, and from its air-bladder fine isinglass 48 prepared. It is occasionally to be met with in the London market, and generally fetches a good price; indeed, it is so rare, and costs so much, that when it is obtained it is generally .for a minute or two. dressed regardless of expense. . The sterlet, though the smallest, is the most highly-prized species of sturgeon. Its flesh is delicious, and its caviare is reserved exclusively for the Rus- sian court. Price, when for sale, from 7s. 6d, per pound. Sturgeon (4 la Cardinal).—Take about two pounds of sturgeon. Cleanse thoroughly, and skin it. Bind it into shape firmly with tape, and lay in a saucepan, and with it an onion, stuck with four cloves, a little piece of mace, a sliced carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a glass of vinegar, and as much water as will cover the fish. Let all boil gently until the sturgeon is done. Lay it on a dish, pour lobster sauce over it, and serve. A few prawns and green parsley may be used as a garnish. The time required to boil sturgeon will vary accord- ing to the size and age of the fish from which the piece was taken—irom three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, from 1s. 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. | Sturgeon (a la Provencale).—Take a slice of sturgeon cut from the middle of the’ fish, lard it all over with thin strips of ham, or even of eel, and brown it by putting it in a stew- pan with a large slice of butter, a spoonful of powdered sweet herbs, half a clove of garlic, and a, little pepper and salt. Lay two or three bay-leaves on the top of the fish, and pour a little stock round. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the contents simmer over a gentle fire till they are done enough. Serve the fish on a hot dish, and send its own gravy, melted butter, brown. sauce, anchovy sauce, or any similar sauce, to table with it. Time, according to‘the age and size of the fish. . Sturgeon (a la Russe).—Take a piece of sturgeon weighing about two pounds. Cleanse thoroughly, scale it, remoye the spikes, and lay it in salt and water for ten or twelve hours. An hour before it is wanted rub it well with vinegar, and let it lie with a little vinegar ‘| poured round it. Put it into a fish-kettle with as much boiling water as ‘will cover*it, and add ‘two onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, and an ounce of bay-salt. Let it boil gently till done enough, take it up, flour it well, put it before a brisk fire, and baste it with butter till it is well browned. Put it on a dish, and pour over it, or serve separately in a tureen, a sauce prepared as follows :—Bone and skin two anchovies, and put them into a saucepan with a glass of white wine, a button onion, an inch of lemon-rind, and a cupful of stock. _ Boil all gently together Strain the sauce, thicken. it with flour and butter, stir two table-spoon- fuls of thick cream into it, and serve. : Sturgeon.(M. Ude's.way).—Boil the stur- geon in salt. and water. ‘When it is done, drain, and mask or cover it with the following sauce.:— Reduce in a small stewpan four spoonfuls: of elder vinegar. When it is half reduced, put in six spoonfuls of velouté, or rather a quantity proportionate to the size. of the fish, and half a spoonful of cavice; thicken the sauce with three yolks of eggs, and add a quarter of a pound of butter and some salt and pepper. ‘Work this sauce well; drain the fish, and cover STU ( 985 ) sTU it with the sauce. In order to keep it thick and white, mix with it a little thick cream. - Sturgeon, Baked.—Take a small stur- geon, skin and cleanse it thoroughly, and re- move the inside. Lay it in a large baking. dish, sprinkle a little chopped parsley over it, together with a little pepper and salt. Moisten with a tumblerful of white wine ; lay some little pieces of butter here and there upon the fish, and bake in a moderate oven. Baste frequently. When it is nicely browned, serve the sturgeon on a hot dish with its own sauce poured round it. Time to bake, about an hour. Sturgeon, Baked (another way).—Split the sturgeon. Make a marinade either with wine or vinegar, and pour it into a vessel large enough to contain the fish, which cover with buttered paper to prevent its getting too high a colour. Baste frequently with the marinade. -When the sturgeon is done, have the sauce made as in the recipe Sturgeon, Roasted, and use it to mask the fish. Put the marinade in the dish with the sturgeon, but you may put skewers across the dish to prevent the fish from touching the liquid. If the fish is boiled in the liquid it will be thready, and not so palatable. Baste the fish with the marinade. Sturgeon, Baked (a la Reine).—This is an expensive though a superior dish. Take a piece of sturgeon weighing about four pounds, cleanse thoroughly, skin it, roll, and bind it firmly with tape; put it into « saucepan with a glassful of vinegar and as much water as wil! cover it, and add a carrot, an onion, a little salt and pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Let it simmer gently until done enough. ' Drain it, and let-it cool. Prepare as much forcemeat of whiting as will entirely cover the surface of the sturgeon (see Quenelles of Cod, Salmon, &c.). Lay this on the fish, and smooth it with the blade of a knife dipped in hot water. Orna- ment with pink tongue, black truffles, and pickled gherkins cut into fancy shapes. Roll it in buttered paper, and fasten securely. Put it into'a baking-dish, pour under it about a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled, and bake it, basting occasionally with its liquor, ina gentle oven. Place it on a dish, garnish with prawns and tufts of green parsley, and pour over or serve with it a little well-made ravigote sauce. Time to bake the sturgeon, three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost, sturgeon, from Is. 6d. per pound. Sturgeon, Blanquette of (4 la Pay- sanne).— When you have some roasted sturgeon returned, keep it to make a blanquette. Pare some round pieces nicely the size of half a crown, and put them into a sauce 4 blan- quette, to which add a little chopped parsley . and the juice of a lemon. ' This blanquette is sent to table like all others in a vol-au- vent, or a casserole, with rice, &c. Sturgeon, Blanquette of, with Peas. —If you have any sturgeon left. that is still very fresh, make a blanquetue-with peas, which, not requiring to be highly seasoned, will admit only of fish which is extremely sweet. After having simmered the peas as they-are always prepared for the second course, take three spodnfuls of sauce tournée, and reduce it with four spoonfuls of the peas, adding.a very small bit of sugar. When your sauco. is, very thick, put to it a thickening of two yolks of eggs, then put the sturgeon to it, and serve either in a vol-au-vent, or in a border of potatoes. Ob- serve that in this dish the seasoning must be very mild. Sturgeon, Boiled.— Cut the fish into thin slices like veal cutlets, rub them over with a little butter and give a sprinkling of pepper. Serve very hot with lemon garnish. Take great care to cut off the skin before the fish is boiled, as the oil in the skin if burnt ‘imparts a very rank flavour. Sturgeon, Choosing of.—The flesh of this fish is partly white with a few blue veins, the grain even, the skin tender, good- coloured, and soft. All the veins and gristles should be blue; for when they are brown and yellow, and the skin harsh, tough, and dry, the fish is not good. It has a pleasant smell when in perfection, but a very disagreeable one when bad. It should also cut firm, without crum- bling. The females are as full of roe as a carp. Sturgeon, Croquettes of.—Sturgeon is a fish absolutely resembling veal, and when fresh is as white as very fine veal; when red, nothing can be done with it. If there is any re- turned of a very good white, but not sufficient to make a croquette, make it into small timballes. Cut the sturgeon into dice, and put them into a sauce similar to that mentioned in Timballes of Turbot’ (see Turbot.) After having cut enough fish into dice to make the croquettes, take a béchamel and some mushrooms cut into- dice, to which add a small lump of butter, salt, &c., and put the fish into that sauce. Let them cool, and then dip them into crumbs of bread, as described for other croquettes.. Fry them of a good colour, and serve some fried parsley in the centre of the dish. ~ Sturgeon Cutlets.—Cut the sturgeon into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Wash these, dry them in a cloth, flour them, and. dip them into egg and scasoned bread-crumbs. Fry in hot fat until they are nicely ‘browned on ‘both sides, drain them, and serve with piquant or tomato sauce. Time to fry, ten to fifteen minutes. Sturgeon, Fresh, Grilled.—Cut the sturgeon into slices an inch thick. Dry these and dip them into egg and seasoned bread- crumbs, and fasten them in’ papers saturated with butter, or simply brush them over with salad-oil, and sprinkle salt and pepper upon them. Broil them over a clear fire until they are sufficiently cooked on both sides. Serve with melted butter, oyster, or anchovy sauce, or with piquant sauce to which a few drops of essence of anchovy and a small piece of butter have been added. Time to grill, about fifteen minutes, the time varying with the size and age of the fish. soyten | teh, 3 Sturgeon, Fried.—Cut the fish into slices, and fry in the usual manner; then pour sTU ( 936 ) sTU off the fat, and put a little flour and boiling water into the'pan. Pour this into a stewpan, and add to it some sweet herbs and an onion, and season with pepper and salt. Let the fish stew fill quite tender; then strain the sauce, and serve it poured round the fish, adding first a little lemon-juice. Sturgeon, Roasted.—Take a piece of sturgeon cut from the middle of a good-sized fish. Cleanse thoroughly and skin it, season with salt and pepper, and tie thin slices of fat bacon round it. Take a piece of writing- paper large enough to cover the fish entirely. Butter it thickly, and spread over it sliced carrots and onions with a small quantity of powdered sweet herbs, and wrap the fish in it. Tie two more sheets of buttered paper upon it, bind securely with tape, and put the stur- geon in a cradle-spit, or tie it to an ordinary spit, and roast before a clear fire. When done enough take it down, pour a little matelote sauce over it, and send more to table in a tureen. The sauce may be made as follows :—- Put half a pint of good brown sauce into a saucepan with eighteen fried button onions, the same number of small mushrooms, and a glassful of claret. Boil all gently together for ten minutes. Add a pinch of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, a small lump of sugar, and a few drops of essence of anchovy. When the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, take the sauce off the fire, stir into it until dissolved a small lump of butter, and it will be ready for serving. ‘Time to roast the fish, according to age and size. Sturgeon, Roasted (another way).—Split the sturgeon; make a marinade with white wine, with which baste the fish. Next take some of the marinade and reduce it with four Jarge spoonfuls of good Spanish sauce. "When the sauce is of « good consistency, put in it about half a pound of fresh butter kneaded with a little flour, salt, cayenne pepper, the juice of a lemon, and a spoonful of essence of anchovies. If you have no Spanish sauce, make a little thickening with flour and butter, and moisten with the marinade, having added to it a little glaze. Sturgeon, Roasted Whole.—lIf it can be procured, take a small sturgeon whole. Remove the spikes, empty it, and cleanse it thoroughly ; then soak it in salt and water for ten or twelve hours. Put it in a cradle-spit, and roast it before a clear fire; baste con- stantly until it is half-dressed. Be very careful that the surface of the fish is not burnt, or it will be entirely spoiled. Cover with seasoned bread-crumbs, and continue roasting, basting it frequently, for half an hour. Serve with crab or anchovy sauce. This is a good dish for a dinner-party. Time to roast, about an hour. Sturgeon, Sauce for.—If broiled or fried, any piquant sauce or any of the sauces which usually accompany salmon may be served with sturgeon. When stewed (which is the most usual mode of dressing it), the liquor in which. it was simmered may be strained, thickened, and either poured over it or served im a tureen. Sturgeon, Stewed.—Tako two pounds of sturgeon cut into slices an inch thick. Soak these in strong vinegar for five minutes, drain them, dry them in a cloth, dip them in flour, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned on both sides. Take as much good nicely-flavoured veal stock as will barely cover the fish, throw into it a large glassful of madeira, cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the fish gently for an hour. Put. the slices on a dish, throw a spoonful of capers upon them, pour the sauce round them, and serve. Time to fry the slices, ten minutes; to simmer them, one hour. Sturgeon, Stewed (another way).—Dip the slices of fish in vinegar, then dry them, dredge them with flour, and broil or fry them. Next lay them in a stewpan with some good broth, and let them stew gently till quite ten- der; thicken with butter or cream, half a glass- ful of wine, and a spoonful of soy, ketchup, or Harvey’s Sauce; throw capers over the top, and serve up garnished with slices of lemon. Sturgeon Stewed and Garnished with Sole.—Take a piece of sturgeon cut from the middle of a good-sized fish. Clean and scale it, and soak it in salt and water for ten or twelve hours. Drain, and cover it with thin slices of fat bacon. Put it into the, fish-kettle, and almost cover it with nicely- flavoured stock. Adda glassful of claret, and simmer it gently until done enough. Fillet five or six soles. Spread a thin layer of fish forcemeat on the skinned side of each fillet, roll it, tie twine round it, and put the fillets side by side in a buttered baking-dish. Pour round them as much stock as will almost cover them, and bake them in a moderate oven. When the sturgeon is done enough, drain it, place it on a hot dish, put the rolled fillets of sole round it, and pour over them a smal} portion of the liquor, strained and thickened, in which the fish was boiled. A small stewed mushroom may be placed on each roll. If preferred, the soles may be omitted altogether, and the sturgeon, being cooked as above, may be served on a hot dish, and simply garnished with parsley and cut lemon. Caper sauce and plainly-boiled potatoes may then be served as accompaniments. Sturgeon, Stuffed and Roasted.— Take the tail end of a moderate-sized sturgeon; cleanse thoroughly, then bone and skin it. Fill it with good veal forcemeat, roll it in buttered paper, and bind it securely with tape. Place it in a cradle-spit, put it down before a clear fire, and baste liberally whilst it is roasting. When it is done enough, serve on a hot dish with plain melted butter, brown gravy, or 2 sauce prepared as follows:—Put into a small saucepan a glassful of sherry, a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and a few drops of essence of anchovy. Let the sauce boil up; then serve. Time to roast, about an hour. _ Sturgeon, Various ways of Cook- ing.—‘ Sturgeon, fresh,” says’ Dr, Kitchiner, ‘is esteemed a good fish by many; but, IF believe, only because it does not come plenti- ful enough to be common, and to the eater of fish it makes a change. A piece stewed, with SUE ( 937 ) SUE some good gravy, is the best way of dressing ; or cut in slices and fried, as you would a veal cutlet, it eats very well. Sturgeon pickled makes a handsome winter dish for a second course.”’ Suedoise of Apples, or Apple Hedgehog (see Apple Hedgehog). Suedoise of Peaches.—Boil six ounces of refined sugar in half a pint of water till it is a clear syrup. Put into this half a dozen fine ripe peaches which have been merely wiped with a soft cloth, and let them simmer very gently for six or eight minutes. Lift them out carefully, pare them, split them in halves, and Jet them soak for a while in half the syrup. Into the other half throw two pounds of ripe peaches which have been pared and split inhalves, and boil them till they form a smooth dry pulp. Add as much sugar as they require to sweeten them pleasantly, and also a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice to bring out the flavour. Spread a layer of this pulp at the bottom of a dish, arrange the peaches upon it, leaving out three or four of the halves, and fill all the empty spaces with the pulp. Stick half a blanched peach-kernel in each peach, and pour over all the reduced syrup. Garnish the dish with a border of macaroons or ratafias, or even of candied peel stamped in fancy shapes. Pile the unused halves of peaches on the top of the dish, and serve. When peaches are expensive, the fruit pulp may be made of apples instead of peaches. Time to simmer the whole peaches, six to eight minutes; to boil the fruit to pulp, from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Probable cost, peaches, very variable. Suf- ficient for half a dozen persons. Suet, Beef, for Pie-crust (see Beef Suet for Pie-crust). Suet Crust (see Crust, Suet, for Puddings). Suet Dumpling: Plain.—It cannot be too strongly insisted upon, and mothers of families cannot be too fully persuaded that a certain quantity of fat taken with food is absolutely necessary to health. Those who do not take it are particularly liable to con- sumption, and this is specially the case with young people who are growing rapidly. To these anxious friends administer fat as a medicine in the shape of cod-liver oil, but it matters little in what shape fat is taken, the effect on the system of dripping, butter, or oil being exactly thesame. Unfortunately, though one man can lead a horse to water, a hundred cannot make him drink, and it is useless to set before delicate, perhaps fanciful, persons things from which, however nourishing and whole- some, they turn away with dislike and loathing. There are families in which every scrap of fat which is served to its members seated at table is left on the plate and thrown to the cat or into the dust-bin. This ought not to be. It does not often happen, indeed, in households where the members.of the families are employed out of doors, but it does when their occupations are sedentary. We have no right to say an unkind word about “daintiness ” if those who are confined all day long in a close in-door atmosphere have not the sharp-set appetite of the ploughman who ‘hears the singing of the lark, and feels the freshness of the breeze from misty daybreak to ruddy sunset. Still, we would urge those who think they can take no meat but lean to use the fat under some disguise. They already take it in many shapes uncon- sciously, and without thinking of it, as in broth, milk, and butter, and even in meat which they call and consider lean. The housewife, at any rate, ought to be thoroughly convinced of the great importance of all kinds of fat in family dishes. She ought to see that none is wasted, to procure all she can at an economical rate, to buy not one ounce less than the usual quantity of good wholesome fat with the meat, and then so to employ it that her family shall be cheated, as it were, into taking, almost without knowing it, what is essential for their bodily welfare. One of the easiest ways of doing this is to serve fat in puddings, and amongst pud- dings of the kind one of the most excellent is suet dumpling. This is wholesome, excellent, and cheap; it may be made more or less sub- stantial, its flavour may be varied according to taste, and it can be eaten as a savoury or a sweet dish. For plain suet dumpling, the best suet is the kidney-fat of beef or veal, which can be bought separately in small quantities, and at a moderate, though, unfortunately, a gradually- increasing price. To make the dumplings, clear the suet from skin and fibre, chop it fine, and to a pound of flour put from a quarter to half a pound of chopped suet. Before putting in the suet, however, mix with the flour a pinch of salt, and, if liked, a small pinch of pepper, and -if a small quantity only of suet is used, add a tea-spoonful of baking-powder. Add cold water to make the mixture into a tolerably stiff dough. Divide this into balls about the size of a large orange. Flour them well. Tie each one separately and securely in a cloth which has been wrung out of boiling water and floured, and be careful to leave the dumplings room to swell. Throw them into fast-boiling water, and keep them boiling quickly until done enough. Turn them out of the cloth, and serve immediately. Jam, sugar, treacle, sweet sauce, or salt and meat-gravy may all be served with them. When the dumplings are to be served with the meat they may be thrown without cloth into the liquor in which the meat is boiled, and allowed to remain until done enough. Time to boil the dumplings, half to three-quarters of an hour, according to size. Probable cost, suet, 10d. per pound. Sufficient, one dumpling for each person. Suet Dumplings, Excellent.—Shred finely six ounces of suet freed from skin and fibre. Add to it a tea-spoonful of salt, six ounces of flour, and two ounces of bread-crumbs. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Break two eggs into a bowl, whisk them well, mix with them six table-spoonfuls of milk, and stir all well together. Divide the mixture into five or six dumplings, tie these separately into cloths lightly dredged with flour, and boil them quickly until done enough. If any of these dump- lings are left, they may be cut into slices, fried in butter, and served a second time. Time to boil, three quarters of an hour to one hour, SUE ( 938 ) SUE according to size. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Suet Dumplings, Sweet.—Prepare the suet dumpling as in the last recipe. “Before putting the suet into the flour, take the neces- sary quantity of salt, and mix with it a table-- spoonful of sugar, a pinch of grated nutmeg or spice, and any flavouring ingredients that may be chosen. Mix all thoroughly together, make the mixture into dough, divide it into balls, and boil as before. A few currants may be added if liked, and instead of sugar a spoon- ful of treacle may be dissolved in the water. ‘Time to boil the dumplings, half an hour to three-quarters of an hour, according to size. Dumplings made with one pound of flour and half a pound of suet will be sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 8d. Suet, Milk (see Milk Suet). Suet Paste for Boiled Puddings (see Paste, Suet, &c.). Suet Pastry, Common.—Suet pastry is especially suited for boiled fruit or meat pud- dings. To make it, put a pound of flour into a bowl, add a pinch of salt and from six to eight ounces of good suet which has been finely shred and freed entirely from skin and fibre. The suet should be well rubbed into the flour. Make a hole in the centre of the mixture, and pour in a small tea-cupful of water. Stir this in lightly with a knife, and if necessary add more water. Work the whole to a stiff paste, roll it out two or three times, and let it stand a few minutes before using it. If a small quantity only of suet is used, a tea-spoonful of baking- powder may be added, and this will help to make the pastry light. Suet Pastry, Rich (for meat pies, &c.). —If the following directions are attended to, suet may be used instead of butter for making puff paste for meat pies which are to be served hot. If they are to be eaten when cold, butter had better be used. The difference in the ex- pense between suet and good butter is con- siderable, and bad butter will spoil anything. Take some dry veal or beef-kidney suet. Free it entirely from skin and fibre, chop it small, then pound it in a mortar, and whilst pounding keep adding a tea-spoonful of salad-oil till the suet looks like butter. If oilis not at hand, fresh butter may be used instead. Two ounces will be sufficient for half a pound of suet. Pro- ceed as for puff paste (see Paste, Puff, or Feuille- tage). Suet, 10d. per pound. ' Suet Pudding (see Kentish Suet Pudding). Suet Pudding (another way). — Chop eight ounces of suet finely. Mix with it an equal weight of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and add a pinch of salt, four table-spoonfuls of sugar, and the grated rind and strained juice of a lemon, and two eggs. Mix thoroughly. Tie the mixture in a cloth, leaving room for the pudding to swell, and boil quickly till done enough. ‘Time to boil, four hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. ' Suet Pudding (another way). — Chop small four ounces of suet free from skin and fibre. Add uw pinch of salt, a little grated ginger, and half a pound of flour. Whisk two eggs with a quarter of a pint of milk. Stir this into the mixture till it is smooth and light. Tie the pudding in a floured cloth, being careful to leave it room to swell, and boil quickly till done enough. Serve with sweet or wine sauce. Time to boil, about two hours, Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Suet Pudding, Dr. Kitchiner’s.— Shred finely seven ounces of good kidney suet. Put this into a bowl, and mix with it half a tea-spoonful of salt, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, half a tea- spoonful of thin lemon-rind chopped small, four ounces of flour, and three ounces of bread- crumbs. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly. Whisk two fresh eggs till they are light and frothy, add gradually a quarter of a pint of milk, and stir the liquor into the pudding. Let it stand half an hour. Put it in one lump into a well-floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil quickly until done enough. Serve with sweet or wine sauce. Time to boil, three hours. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Suet Pudding, Fruit (see Fruit Suet Pudding). Suet Pudding, Plain.—An excellent plain suet pudding may be made by following the instructions already given for making ‘suet dumplings, then boiling the preparation whole instead of dividing it into dumplings. . A pud- ding thus made will be excellent if served with the joint, and with plenty of gravy; or it may be sent to table separately, having had a jar of jam emptied upon it at the last moment. Time to boil the pudding, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 6d. to 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Suet Pudding, Plain (served with sugar and lemon-juice).—Rub ‘two ounces of finely- shred suet into a pound of flour. Add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and just before the water or milk is added mix in two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder. Add water to make a tolerably light paste; then put the pudding in a floured cloth, and boil it till done enough. This pud- ding is also very good with gravy. Time to boil, one hour. Probable cost, 5d.. Sufficient for four or five persons. Suet, to Clarify for Frying.—Chop the suet roughly, free it from skin and fibre, and melt it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire. Pour the fat off frequently as it melts, for fear it should burn; or put the minced suet into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water, and keep it boiling until it is dissolved. Pour the liquor into a basin, and when it is cold take the cake of fat from the top. Melt it again, strain it through muslin, keep back the sediment, and the fat will be fit for use. Clarified suet is ex- cellent for making plain pastry, and also for basting and frying purposes. Suet, to Keep for Months.—Take firm but perfectly sweet suet. Free it entirely from skin and fibre, and put it in a saucepan over a very gentle fire. Let it melt gradually. “Pour it into a pan of vold water. When it is cold and SUF ( 939 ) SUG hard, wipe it dry with a soft cloth, wrap it in paper, put it in a linen bag, and hang it in a cool dry place. Scrape it when it is wanted for use. Fresh suet will keep for several days if it is chopped fine with all the veiny pieces re- moved, then put into a jar entirely covered with flour, and kept in a cool place. Suffolk-bang Cheese.—There are cases in which dairy-farmers skim the milk before they begin to make cheese. These cheeses are remarkable for their hardness, because caseine, independently of the butter, is an exceedingly hard substance; and these cheeses are sometimes brought into the market, and they are so hard that hey are the subject of many a joke. Of such are the Suffolk-bang cheeses made by frugal housewives in that county, who first take the butter and send it to market, and then make their cheese. It is said of it in derision that “dogs bark at it, pigs grunt at it, but neither of them can bite it.” Suffolk Buns.—Rub four ounces of lard into a pound of flour; adda spoonful of salt, two tea-spoonfuls of baking powder, three table-spoonfuls of sugar, and three table- spoonfuls of currants or caraway-seeds. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly; whisk two eggs and stir them into the mixture, to make a smooth firm paste. A little milk may be added if necessary. Roll the paste out to the thickness of aninch. Stamp it in rounds, and bake these on tins in a gentle oven. If preferred, ground rice and butter may be used instead of flour and lard. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Suffolk Dumplings.—Mix some bread dough lightly with milk instead of water ; let it rise before the fire for an hour. Have ready a saucepan of fast-boiling water. Divide. the dough into balls the size of an orange, throw them into the water, and boil them quickly until done enough. When a fork stuck ,to the centre of them comes out quite clean they are done enough. Serve at once. When eating the dumplings do not cut them with a knife, but tear them apart with a fork and spoon. Send butter and sugar, and lemon-juice, or treacle, to table with them. Time to boil, twenty minutes. Sufficient, allow one for each person. Suffolk Dumplings (see Hard or Suffolk Dumplings). Sugar, Barley.—Take any quantity of clarified sugar in that state that on dipping. the finger into the pan the sugar which adheres to it will break with a slight noise; this is called crackling. When the sugar is near this, put in two or three drops of lemon-juice or a little vinegar to prevent its graining. When it has come to the crack, take it off instantly, and dip the pan into cold water to prevent its burning; let it stand a little, and then pour it on a marble which must have been previously rubbed with oil. Cut the sugar into small pieces, when it will be ready for use. One drop of citron will flavour a considerable quantity. Sugar Biscuits.—No. 1. Beat a pound of fresh butter to cream. Add a pound of pow- dered and sifted sugar and a pound of dried Hour, and any flavouring that may be preferred. degrees: Make the mixturo into paste by stirring milk or cream into it; roll it out very thin, stamp it into rounds or squares; prick these with a fork, and bake on buttered tins in a well-heated oven. No. 2. Take four eggs, with an equal weight of finely-pounded sugar and half the weight of dried flour. Break the eggs, and put the yolks and the whites into separate bowls. Beat the yolks and the sugar together for half an hour; add the flour with any flavouring that may be chosen, and when the mixture is quite smooth add the whites of the eggs beaten to a firm froth. Drop the biscuits in knobs upen sheets of buttered paper, sift sugar upon them, and bake in a quick oven. No. 3. Put half a pint of milk into a bowl, and stir into it as much flour as will form a thick batter. Add a spoonful of salt and a gill of yeast, and set the sponge on the hearth to rise. This should be done in the evening. Next morning dissolve without heating two ounces of butter. Add this’ to the sponge, and knead in as much flour as will form.a dough and a little powdered white sugar. Let the dough rise before the fire till it is quite light; divide it into biscuits, handling it as lightly as possible, and put these into buttered tins. Let them rise again for a short time, and bake them in a brisk oven. When they are done enough, brush them over with a syrup of sugar and water, and sift powdered sugar upon them. Sugar Boiled from Syrup to Cara- mel.—There are several degrees in boiling sugar from clarified syrup to caramel. .'The process requires not only care but an experience which can, perhaps, only be expected from a confectioner. Recipes are.given for boiling sugar to the first, second, third, fourth, and fifth These are the principal gradations, and they are further divided by professional persons. When great nicety is required, the condition of the sugar can be best ascertained by a saccharometer, which is an instrument con- structed forthe purpose of determining , the exact condition of preparations of this nature. The finest sugar only should be used in confec- tionery. It is really the most economical, as common sugar wastes much more when it is being clarified, : etd? Sugayr, to Clarify.—Break the sugar into large lumps, and put it into a delicately-clean pre- serving-pan. Allow a pint of water to. each pound if it is for syrup; if for candying less than half that quantity will be sufficient. The white of one egg will also be required for twelve pounds of sugar if it is refined; for six pounds if it is coarse. Beat the white of egg lightly ; stir it into the water, and pour the mixture upon the sugar. Let it stand until dissolved; then stir it well, and put if upon a gentle fire. Do not disturb it after the scum begins to form. Let it boil for five minutés; take it from the fire, let it stand for two minutes, and carefully remove all the scum. Set it on the fire again, and when it is about to boil up throw in a little cold water, which has been reserved for the purpose from the quantity originally measured. Boil till the scum forms again; draw it from the fire, let it settle, then skim it as before, and repeat this operation till SUG ( 940 ) sUG the syrup is quite clear. If it is not properly cleared it will rise over the pan when it is boiled toa height. Strain the syrup through muslin, and it will be fit for use or for further boiling. To prevent waste, the scum should be laid on a sieve, and any syrup that runs from it should be boiled up again. First Degree, named Candied Sugar.—Take the sugar clarified as above, and put it again on the fire. Let it boil till smooth. Dip the hand quickly in and out of cold water to keep it from being burnt; take from the skimmer a drop of the syrup, press it quickly, draw it apart, and if it forms a brittle thread it has attained the first degree. Second Degree, named Souflé, or Blown Sugar. —Boil the candied sugar still longer. Dip in the skimmer, shake off the sugar, and blow strongly through the holes of the skimmer. When the sugar forms into bubbles it has attained the second degree. Third Degree, named Feathered Sugar.—Boil the blown sugar still longer. Dip the skimmer again in the pan, shake off the sugar, then give it a quick toss. If it flies off like down or feathers it has attained the third degree. Fourth Degree, named Crackling Sugar.—Boil the feathered sugar a short time longer. Dipa stick in the sugar, and plunge it instantly into cold water. If the sugar that hangs to the stick becomes instantly hard the sugar has attained the fourth degree. In making this experiment the cook must be careful that the water in which she tries the sugar is perfectly cold. Ifit isnot she may be misled. If the sugar is intended for barley-sugar, a little grated lemon or essence of lemon should now be added, and the sugar should be poured upon a broad dish; and when the edges begin to harden it should be divided into strips and twisted. If there-is any fear that the sugar will grain or return again to powder a little lemon-juice may be added. , Fifth Degree, named Caramel.—Boil the sugar until when a little is put into cold water it hardens instantly and snaps like glass. Squeeze in a little lemon-juice; let the sugar remain one minute longer on the fire, then, if it is wanted for sugar spinning, set the pan in another of cold water, and the caramel will be ready for use. Care should be taken that the fire is not very fierce when the sugar is being boiled, for if it flames up at the sides of the pan it may burn and spoil the sugar. Spun sugar is a pretty ornament for sweetmeats, and may be made of sugar thus prepared. Moulds of a suitable size and form should be oiled with almond oil, and then with a fork the sugar should be spread over them in fine threads of chain or network. These moulds will look very pretty if placed upon an iced cake, and they can be used several times if they are carefully handled. One way of performing this really difficult operation is to tie two forks together with the prongs out- wards, dip them lightly in the sugar, take them out, and shake them backwards and forwards over the oiled moulds or whatever else is to be covered. The manufacture of spun sugar belongs rather to the skill of the confectioner, however, than to that of the cook. Sugar Browning, for Colouring Soups, Sauces, and Made Dishes.— When sauces and made-dishes need to be thickened as well as browned, roux or brown thickening should be used. When the colour only is required, it may often be sufficiently imparted by means of a little claret or mush- room ketchup, or by frying the meat and onions used till they are a light-brown colour, or by stewing onion-skins or burnt onions in the sauce. Some cooks adopt the sloverly and dan- gerous practice of melting a knob of sugar in an iron spoon, and adding this to the prepara- tion; but this plan is almost certain to give to the sauce a bitter, burnt taste. Sugar brown- ing is a convenient preparation, which will give* to the sauce the requisite brown colour, and if it be carefully made there will be no fear that it will impart an unpleasant taste. To make it, proceed as follows:—Take a quarter of a pound of good brown sugar ; put it into a delicately-clean saucepan, and stir it without ceasing over a gentle fire till it melts and begins to acquire a little colour. Draw it back, and let it bake slowly, still stirring, until it is almost black without being at all burnt. Pour a quart of water upon it, let it boil gently until dissolved, skim it, strain through muslin, put the preparation when cold into small bottles, sto per closely, and it will be fit for use. If liked, this browning may be slightly flavoured by the addition of ketchup, cloves, onions, pepper, and salt; but it is more likely to be generally useful if it is quite plain. Time to prepare, about an hour. Sufficient, a few drops will colour a pint of gravy. Sugar, Burnt, or Caramel (sce Caramel or Burnt Sugar). Sugar Cakes.—Rub half a pound of fresh butter to cream; then add half a pound of powdered sugar, three well-whisked eggs, one pound of flour, and as much milk as will form a | dough. The milk and flour should be added alternately. Roll the pastry out, cut it in small round cakes, and bake these on a floured tin in a moderate oven. z Sugar, Clarified, for Fresh-water Ices.—Break two pounds of refined sugar into small pieces, and put these into a saucepan with two pints of cold water. Let the sugar dissolve, then add a tea-spoonful of white of egg lightly beaten. As the scum rises take it off, and keep the sugar boiling until the scum ceases to rise. "When it is quite clear, strain it through muslin, and it will be fit for use. If liked, it may be put into a bottle and closely stoppered. It will keep for some time. Time to boil, ten minutes. Sugar, Coloured.—Crush some lump sugar coarsely. Dropa little prepared cochineal upon the palms of the hands, and rub the sugar between them till it is equally coloured. Put it ina, warm place, and when dry it will be ready for use. Spinach-juice may be used to colour the sugar green, and an infusion of saffron to colour it yellow. Chocolate will impart a brown tint, and « little indigo a blue tint. Pink sugar- candy is very pretty for ornamenting cakes and sweet dishes. : SUG (941 ) SUG Sugar, Devices in.—To make these take any quantity of powdered loaf sugar, make it into a paste with mucilage, and mould it to taste. Sugar, Fish Preserved with.—A method adopted in Portugal for preserving fish consists in removing the viscera and sprinkling sugar over the interior, keeping the fish in a horizontal position, so that the air may pene- trate.as much as possible. It is said that fish preserved in this way can be kept fresh for a long time, the savour being as perfect’ as if recently caught. Salmon thus treated before salting and smoking possess a much more agreeable taste, a table-spoonful of sugar being sufficient for a five-pound fish. Sugar Icings and Glazings, for Cakes, &c.—Take two pounds of icing sugar ina bowl. Throw in the whites of two, or if necessary three-eggs. The whites must not be whisked, but thrown on as they are. Beat .the mixture well with a wooden spoon. Add a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, a few drops at a time. When a smooth paste which will not ‘run is produced, the icing is ready. It should (be spread evenly over the cake, which has ‘been already baked and allowed to cool, with hands which have been well wetted with cold water. It may be coloured, if liked, with cochi- neal, &c. If it is wished to ornament the cake with an ice beading, put a little of the icing into a small piece of white paper twisted into the form of a white sugar-bag. Squeeze this so that the sugar will come out through the hole af the bottom in a thin stream, and with this form any suitable devices on the cake. To impart to pastry a clear glaze which resembles barley-sugar, dip the surface of the pastry into liquid caramel (sce Sugar, Boiled from Syrup to Caramel), or sift, powdered and dry white sugar thickly upon it, and melt it by holding a salamander or red-hot shovel close to it. This glaze needs to be carefully preserved from damp. The icing must be dried in a cool oven. Sugar Paste, for Tarts, &c.—Rub four ounces of fresh butter into a pound of flour; add a little salt and three ounces of sugar. Work the whole into a smooth paste with an egg and a little water. Use as required. Sugar, Pink, for Ornamenting ’ Sweet Dishes (see Pink Sugar). : Sugar Roly-poly.—Make a good suet crust; roll it out as is usual in making roly- poly pudding, and instead of jam spread brown sugar upon it. Finish in the usual way, or send melted butter sweetened with sugar and flavoured with vinegar or lemon-juice to table with it. Sugar, Small Ornaments of.—Soak a little gum tragacanth in water. Make it intoa paste by mixing double refined powdered sugar upon if. Colour this with cochineal, spinach- juice, yolk of egg, chocolate, or indigo, &c., to give it the desired tinge, and mould it to any shape. Pretty ornaments may be thus made for cakes and sweet dishes. Sugar, Varieties of.—The sugar met with i commerce is usually of four ‘kinds— brown, or muscovado sugar, clayed sugar, re~ fined or loaf sugar, and sugar candy. The dif- ference between one sort of sugar and another depends altogether on the different mode in which it is prepared. 1. Brown, or Muscovado Sugar.—The plants or canes being crushed in a mill, the juice having passed through a strainer is collected in the clarifier, where it is first exposed to the action of a gentle fire, after being “tempered” (mixed with alkali) for the purpose of facili- tating the separation of the liquor from its impurities. It is then conveyed into the large evaporating copper, and successively into two others, each of smaller size, the superintending boiler freeing it, during the process, from the scum and feculent matters which rise to the surface. The syrup then reaches the last cop- per vessel, called the “striking tache,” where it is boiled till sufficiently concentrated to be capable of granulating in the cooler, whence it is transferred with the least possible delay to prevent charring. Here it soon ceases to be a liquid, and when fully crystallised is put into hogsheads (called “ potting’’) placed on their ends in the curing-house, with several aper- tures in their bottoms, through which the molasses drain into a cistern below. In this state they remain till properly cured, when the casks are filled up and prepared for shipment. 2, Clayed Sugar is prepared by taking the juice, as in the case of muscovado sugar, when boiled to a proper consistency, and pouring it into conical pots with the apex downwards. These pots have a hole at the lower extremity, through which the molasses or syrup is allowed to drain. After this draining has continued for some time a stratum of moistened clay is spread over the surface of the pots, the moisture of which, percolating through the mass, is found to contribute powerfully to its purification. 3. Refined Sugar may be prepared from mus- covado or clayed sugar by re-dissolving the sugar in water, and after boiling it with some purifying substance, pouring it as before into conical pots, which are again covered with moistened clay. A repetition of this process produces double-refined sugar; but a variety of improved processes are now resorted to. 4, Sugar Candy. — Solutions of brown or clayed sugar boiled until they become thick, and then removed into a hot room, formed upon sticks or strings put into the vessels for that purpose into crystals or candy. Sugar Vinegar.—Put eight pounds of the coarsest and cheapest moist sugar into five gallons of water. Stir the liquor well, boil it, skimming carefully till the scum ceases to rise. Pour it into a cask, and when it is luke- warm put into it a thick piece of toast well- covered with fresh yeast. Leave it open for four or five days, then paste a piece of paper over the bung-hole, and prick it in three or four places with a pin. [Keep it in a warm dry place till it is ready, then draw it off, and bottle it. Before bottling it, boil ii a quarter of a minute, as this will keep it from becoming thick and cloudy. The vessels containing the vinegar should not be quite filled, nor should the vinegar be kept entirely from the air. lf SUG ( 942 ) SUM this vinegar is made in March or April, it will be ready for bottling in September. . Sugar Vinegar (another way).—To every gallon of water add two pounds of brown sugar and little yeast. Have it exposed to the sun for six months in a vessel slightly stopped. Sugar Vinegar, Strong.—Put a gallon of water into a stewpan with seven pounds of coarse moist sugar, stir it for a minute or two, then boil it for half an hour, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Pour it out, and when it is new-milk-warm, or from sixty to sixty-five degrees Fahrenheit, put into ita thick piece of toast well covered with fresh yeast. Let it stand for two days, and stir frequently. Put it into a cask, paste a piece of paper over the bung-hole, and put it in a warm dry place. Let it stand till ready, then bottle for use. This strong vinegar will be found excellent for all purposes. ° Sugar, Wholesomeness of.—Sugar is nutritious, antiseptic, and laxative. In mode- rate quantities if is wholesome, but from its tendency to ferment it is apt in some consti- tutions to produce flatulency, heat, and thirst. It should not be made too free with by those who an to preserve their teeth white and sound. Sughlio, Italian.— This preparation -is simply stock which has been made of wine instead of water. It is appropriately seasoned with herbs and spices, and various delicacies, such as fowls, game, macaroni, &c., are cooked init. If the meat of which the stock is made be taken up before it is too much dressed, it will of itself form an excellent dish. Sultana Raisins.—Sultana raisins hardly possess sufficient flavour to be used alone in puddings or cakes, but they are excellent when mixed with other kinds, such as valencias or mouscatels. They are very convenient because they are stoneless, though they have a good many little stalks about them which need to be carefully picked out before the raisins are used. : Summer Beverages.—Recipes for va- rious summer beverages will be found under their respective headings. We give here how- ever, a few additional recipes. Aérated Beverages.—These may be enjoyed in every household by the employment of a gazogene. This is a portable apparatus for aérating water and other liquids. It is to be obtained in many different forms, but in all the principle is the same. In one compartment powders are placed for generating carbonic acid gas, in another is the liquid to be aérated. The two compartments communicate with each other by » suitable tube, and a second tube furnished with « spring tap affords a means of exit for the aérated liquid. By means of the gazogene water, wine, ale, &c., may in a few minutes be rendered brisk and piquant by means of carbonicacid. By the employment of fruit syrups manufactured from English and foreign fruits, the most delicious aérated sum- mer beverages may be produced. . “ Bomba,” —This a pleasant drink common in Italy. It is made by. blanching about two ounces of sweet almonds, and rubbing them down to a smooth pulp in a mortar with an equal weight of sugar; to this a single bitter almond should, be added, and also rubbed down to apaste. One quart of water should be gradually added in a fine stream to this pulp, an assistant keeping the pestle continually rolling to insure perfect admixture. This is peculiarly grateful and delicate in taste. Cheese or Milk Whey.—This is an excellent drink in summer-time. So also is buttermilk, especially when the cows feed on good fresh herbage. In northern countries, buttermilk is kept till it becomes sour, and separates into a curd or whey, which possesses considerable acidity, but notwithstanding is exceedingly wholesome, and forms a refreshing beverage. In the North it is a common drink with la- bourers. - - Cider Cup—Take two bottles of cider, two glassfuls of sherry, and one of liqueur. -Add the juice of one lemon and half of the peel cut thin, two table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar, and the white of an egg beaten to a froth and poured over the mixture. Ice well. Cool Tankard.—Put into a quart of mild ale a wine-glassful of white wine, the same of brandy and capillaire, the juice of a lemon, and a little piece of the rind. Adda sprig of borage or balm, a bit of toasted bread, and nutmeg grated on the top. Cooling Drink.—Dissolve six table-spoonfuls of pounded sugar in a tumblerful of water, pour it into a large jug with a bottle of claret; stir, and add one bottle of champagne and two of soda water, and ice well. Cranberry Drink.—Put a tea-cupful of cran- berries into a cupful of water, and mash them. Boil, in the meantime, two quarts of water with one large spoonful of oatmeal and a bit of lemon-peel ; add the cranberries, and sugar (but not too much, otherwise the fine sharpness of the fruit will be destroyed), a quarter of a pint of white wine, or less, according to taste; boil for half an hour, and strain. * Curds and Whey (a cheap method).—Add six grains of citric acid to a wine-glassful of milk, and the result will be a pleasant acidulous whey and a fine curd. Curds and Whey (Italian method).— Take several of the rough coats that line the gizzards of turkeys and fowls, cleanse from the dirt, rub well with salt, and hang them up to dry; when required for use, break off some of the skin, pour boiling water on, digest for eight or nine hours, and use the same as rennet. Fruit Beverages.—These may be manufactured. from nearly all the fruits which can be made into jams. The jam is to be prepared as usual, and a small portion, say about two ounces, stirred in a quart of water. For summer use the following jams or pulps are specially re- freshing :—Tamarinds (very much used in Italy, especially in conjunction with effervescent : waters), black-currant jelly, raspberry jam, vinegar, or syrup, apple jelly, and quince jam. Ginger Beer (Dr. Kitchiner’s recipe).—To | eleven gallons of water put ten pounds of loaf sugar, half.a pound of bruised ginger, the rind of four lemons, and the whites of four eggs - SUM ( 943) SUM peaten into a strong froth; mix them all well together while cold, and put the preparation ato a copper. As soon as it boils, skim it well, and then pour it into a cooler, and put to it two ounces of cream of tartar and the inside of six lemons sliced and the pips taken out. When it is nearly cold, put into a cloth four table- spoonfuls of yeast, and pour the liquor in upon it. When done'working, bung it up, and let it stand a fortnight; then bottle it off, and it will be fit for drinking in about ten days. Ginger Beer (other ways).—Take a pound and a half of common brown sugar or treacle, a gallon and a half of water, an ounce of ground ginger, and a lemon if liked. Boil, and then add yeast. 2. Dissolve four ounces of candied ginger in two gallons and a quarter of boiling water, add two pounds of sugar, one ‘ounce of powdered citric acid, when nearly cold, and two,table-spoonfuls of yeast. Lemonade.—This favourite beverage is easily made and extremely refreshing. ‘To make a quart, take two lemons or more, according to taste, pare thinly off a little of the rind, or rub lumps of sugar upon it. Squeeze out the juice of the fruit, and mix it with two ounces of white sugar, including what has been rubbed upon the lemons. Add boiling hot water, and when cool enough strain the liquor. Dilute the preparation with water to the strength required. Should lemons not be in season, syrup of lemons may be used, or crystallised citric acid and sugar, adding a few drops of the essence of lemon. Lemonade, like all similar drinks, is rendered much more: refreshing by being iced. ; Lemonade (au lait).—Take half a pint of lemon- juice, the same of white wine, three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, and a quart of boiling water. Mix, and when cold add a pint of boid- ing milk. Let it stand twelve hours, then pour through a jelly-bag. This makes two quarts ; about seven lemons will produce half a pint of juice. ; Lemonade (Soyer’s recipe).—Thinly peel the third part of a lemon, which put into a basin with two table-spoonfuls of sugar. Roll the lemon with your hand upon the table to soften it; cut it in two lengthwise, squeeze the juice over the peel, &c., stir round for a minute with a spoon to form a sort of syrup, pour over apint of water, mix well, and remove the pips;. it will then be ready for use. If a very large lemon and full of juice and very fresh, you may make a pint and a half to a quart, adding sugar and peel in proportion to the increase of water. The juice only of the lemon and sugar will make lemonade, but it will then be deprived of the aroma which the rind contains, the said rind being generally thrown away. Mint Julep —Put about a dozen of the young sprigs of mint into a tumbler. Adda table- spoonful of white sugar, half a wine-glassful of peach, and the same of common brandy, then fill up the tumbler with pounded ice. Nectar.—This is a very simple and pleasant drink, and generally . liked. Dissolve two pounds of loaf sugar in three quarts of hot water. When cool, add quite half an ounce of tartaric or, preferably, citric acid, and a tea- spoonful of fresh essence of lemon. Colour according to fancy with burnt sugar, strain, and bottle. This preparation will keep two or three weeks, and is the better for being made a few days before it is wanted. Orangeade.—Squeeze out the juice of an orange, pour boiling water on a little of the peel, and cover it close. Boil water and sugar to a thin syrup, and skim it. When all are cold, mix the juice, the infusion, and the syrup with as much more water as will make a rich drink. Strain through a jelly-bag, and ice. Orgeat.—Blanch and pound three-quarters of a pound of sweet-almonds and thirty bitter ones with a table-spoonful of water. Stir in by degrees two pints of water and three pints of milk, and strain the whole through a cloth. Dissolve half a pound of loaf sugar in a pint of water, boil, skim well, and mix with the almond water, adding two table-spoonfuls of orange- flower water and a tea-cupful of good brandy. Quince Syrup.—Grate quinces, pass the pulp through a sieve, then set it before the fire for the juice to settle and clarify; strain, and add a pound of sugar (boiled down) to every four ounces of juice; remove from the fire, and when cold bottle for use. A table-spoonful of this syrup will flavour a pint of water. Raspberry Vinegar.—This is made by squeez- ing the juice of three quarts of raspberries into a quart of vinegar, and then simmering the vinegar for about a quarter of an hour with two pounds of sugar in an earthen pipkin not glazed with lead. When cold it is to be corked; and a small spoonful of this in a glassful of water makes a very cooling and refreshing drink. (For other ways see Raspberry Vinegar.) Sherry Cobbler.—Take some very fine and clean ice, break it into small pieces, fill a tumbler to within an inch of the top with it, putia table-spoonful of plain syrup, capillaire, or any other flavour—some prefer strawberry—add the quarter of the zest of a lemon and a few drops of the juice. Fill with sherry, stir it up, and let it stand for five or six minutes. Sip gently through a straw. Sodaic Powders.—Take five drachms of citric or tartaric acid, pound it fine, and divide it into twelve parts, folding each in white paper. Take six drachms of carbonate of soda, pound it fine, and fold it in dive paper. Half fill two half- pint tumblers with water; stir into one a powder from the white paper, in the other one from the blue; when the powders are quite dis- solved pour one to the other, and perfect soda water will be instantaneously produced in its utmost perfection. Supreme Nectar.—Put into a nine-gallon cask six pounds of moist sugar, five ounces of bruised ginger, four ounces of cream of tartar, four lemons, eight ounces of yeast, and seven gallons of boiling water. Work two or three days, strain, add brandy one pint, bung very close, and in fourteen days bottle and wire down. Tamarind Drink.—Boil three pints of water with an ounce anda half of tamarinds, three ounces of currants, and two ounces of stoned raisins, till about a third has evaporated. Strain, add a bit of lemon-peel, which is to be removed in half an hour, then cool. ' Vinegar and Water.—* It is commonly: known that cold water is dangerous when used by SUM (944 ) SUP persons heated with labour or by any severe exercise ; and yet it is necessary to supply the waste and exhaustion of perspiration in some way or other. When spirits or wine are added in small quantities to the water it may be used, even if cold, with little danger; but severe labour or cxercise excites a danger of fever, and that fever is increased by spirits or fermented liquor of any kind. On this account, Dr. Rush, in one of his publications, recommends that labourers in the fields, particularly at har- vest-time, should allay their thirst by water con- taining a small quantity of vinegar: about a tea-spoonful to half a pint of water, which would have the desired eftect without stimu- lating or increasing the heat of the body; and he states that those labourers who have used this beverage have found themselves more refreshed and less exhausted at night than when they drank water with spirits. This is not a modern practice merely ; for the Romans used vinegar to mix with water for the drink of their soldiers.” Summer Diet.—With change of weather all sensible people change their diet. In sum- mer fish should replace meat both at breakfast and luncheon, while fresh salads and well- cooked fruit should be taken instead of indi- gestible pastry and innutritious confections. Milk and water may be taken by children and young people up to eighteen years of age, or, for those who prefer it, the milk may be combined with some natural mineral water. No more powerful stimulant should be taken than claret or sherry by those who feel they must have something more than water, while they who are wise will adopt the most simple form of diet, and avoid all unnatural ex- tremes. Summer Fruit Salad.—Take one or two kinds of freshly-gathered finely-flavoured fruit. Pick it, put it to a glass dish, and stir into it a dessert-spoonful of sherry, a dessert- spoonful of water, and three table-spoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar to each pint of fruit. Let it remain in a cool place for an hour or two, and serve with cream instead of a tart. Summer Pudding. — Beat five table- spoonfuls of flour smoothly with a quarter of a pint of milk. Add gradually three-quarters of a pint of boiling milk, and boil the mixture, stirring it all the time, for five minutes. Pour it out, and let it become partially cool, then add two fresh eggs and half a tea-cupful of sugar. Beat the batter briskly for a few minutes, and stir in a tea-cupful of fresh summer fruit of any kind. Put the mixture into a buttered bowl, tie it securely in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly till done enough. Turn it out, and serve immediately. Send sweet sauce or pow- dered sugar to table with it. Time to boil, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Summer Pickle (see Pickle, Summer, for Present Use). Summer Vegetable Salad.—Take half a pound of raw artichoke bottoms, half a pound of fresh cucumber, and the heart of a firm fresh lettuce. Divide into thin slices, the cucumber having of course been peeled before it was cut, and sprinkle a little salt over the vegetables. Cover the dish, and let it remain untouched for two hours. Drain off the liquor, and add four table-spoonfuls of pickled red cabbage, or six or eight red radishes cut up small. Pour some good salad-sauce over all, toss the vegetables lightly together, and serve, Half an ounce of mixed chervil-leaves mixed with the salad will improve its flavour. Superior Sauce for Flavouring Stews, &c.—Take one table-spoonful of finely-grated horseradish, mix with it a table- spoonful of curry-powder, a salt-spoonful of cayenne, the grated rind of a fresh lemon, a tea-spoonful of ground ginger, a tea-spoonful of mustard-seed, a quarter of a nutmeg, grated, a salt-spoontful of celery, half a dozen pickled walnuts, and an ounce of garlic. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and pour upon them a quart of ketchup, a pint of port, half a pint of soy, the strained juice of three lemons, and a table-spoonful of essence of anchovy. Bottle the mixture, cork closely, and store in a warm place. Shake the bottle occasionally and also before using the sauce. It may be used at the end of a week or two, but will improve with age. Superlative Soup (Dr. Kitchiner’s).— Take four pounds of the shin of beef, and cut it into six pieces. Fry a large onion cut small in dripping, add the pieces of meat, and shake the pan to keep them from burning. Dredge upon them gradually six ounces of flour, and stir all well together for five minutes. Pour in gradually three quarts of boiling water. Let the liquor boil, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Add salt and pepper and a tea-spoonful of ground allspice. Draw the pan to the side, and simmer its contents gently for three hours and a half. Take the meat out, and serve it on a dish separately, with dressed vegetables. Serve the soup ina tureen. Time, three hours and a half to simmer the liquor. Supper Dish, French (see French Supper Dish). Supper or Luncheon, ae pies for.— Peel the apples, leaving an inch of the stalks. Put them in a saucepan, cover them with cold water, and let them simmer gently till they are tender throughout. Take them up before they are broken, put them on a dish, sprinkle pow- dered sugar thickly upon them, and serve hot or cold. Cream or milk may be eaten with them. Suppers.—The modern practice cf dining late has all but put an end to the hot heavy suppers which were once so much in vogue, Now-a-days supper partakes more of the nature of a light refreshment than of a solid meal, and though, when « large party has been given, substantial viands need to be provided, they are usually served cold. This affords an excellent opportunity for the display of good taste and ingenuity, and with these and a moderate share of bright glass and china, and snowy napery. a supper-table may be laid out handsomely at a comparatively trifling cost. Nothing so much 'sUP ( 945 ) SUP improves the appearance of a supper-table as plenty of flowers. When these can be had, they should be placed not only in the centre of the table, but here and there upon it. A small vase may be placed before each guest. A supper-room should be brilliantly lighted. The table should be covered with a white cloth. The most orna- mental dishes should be placed in the centre, with the smaller ones surrounding them. The colours and flavours of the various dishes should contrast (care being taken that there are not too many white dishes), and the table should be neither overcrowded nor too much broken up. The dishes exactly opposite each other should correspond in shape and size. As it is impor- tant that the eye should be pleased as well as the palate, particular attention should be paid to the garniture of the dishes. Articles that will allow of it should be glazed and orna- mented with artificial flowers, &c. Melted lard, thinned with a little salad-oil, may be used for decorating hams and tongues; raised pies should be covered with clear aspic jelly cut into dice, and everything should be lightly and gracefully arranged. Bright parsley, scraped horseradish, cut lemon, red beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, &c., will all be needed for garniture. Sweet dishes may be ornamented with crackers. Precise instructions cannot of course be given as to the details of a supper-table, as these must be regulated by the means of the host, the resources of the establishment, the size of the room, and the length and shape of the table. A list of articles suitable for supper may, however, be useful, and we subjoin one. Roast game or poultry, cold meats of various kinds, hams, tongues, galantines, raised pies, boiled fowls, oyster patties, sandwiches, collared eels, lobster salads, mayonnaise of salmon, &c. To these may be added sweet dishes, such as creams, jellies, custards, trifles, blancmanges, cakes, tarts, puffs, preserved or dried fruits, rice, xago, &c., in various forms, compdtes of fruit, fancy pastry, dishes of fresh fruit, bon- bons. When the supper is a standing one, as a matter of convenience, and to facilitate opera- tions, game and poultry should be cut up, meat sliced, and everything placed so that it may be served with as little trouble as possible. Some- times a plate of hot soup is served to each guest at the commencement of supper, and proves a welcome refreshment. Suppers Wholesomeness of.—In the time of Elizabeth, the nobility and gentry were accustomed to dine at eleven, to sup be- tween five and six, and go to bed at ten. It is therefore evident that any argument in favour of this meal, founded upon the healthy condition of our ancestors, must be fallacious. By supper, in modern times, we understand a late meal just before bedtime. But as sleep is not favourable to every stage of digestion, it is very questionable whether retiring to rest with a full stomach can, under any circumstances, be salutary. During the first part of the process, or that of chymification, a person so situated may perhaps sleep quietly, unless indeed the morbid distention of the stomach should impede respiration and occasion distress; but when the food has passed out of the stomach, and the processes of chylifi- 60—n.E. cation and sanguification have been established, the natural propensity of the body is for ac- tivity, and the invalid awakes at this period and remains. in uw feverish state for some hours. Upon this general principle, then, sup- pers are to be avoided; that is to say, hearty suppers which require the active powers of the stomach for their digestion. The same objection cannot be urged against a light re- past, which is generally useful to dyspeptica; and it has been truly and facetiously observed that ‘‘some invalids need not put on their nightcaps if they do not first bribe their sto- machs to good behaviour.” An egg lightly boiled, or a piece of dry toast, with a small quantity of white-wine negus, will often secure a tranquil night, which would otherwise be assed with restlessness. Amongst the intel- ectual part of the community there has ever existed a very strong predilection in favour of suppers; the labour of the day has been per- formed; the hour is sacred to conviviality, and the period is one which is not likely to be interrupted by the calls of business. To those | in health some indulgence may occasionally be } allowed; but the physician should be cautious ¢ how he gives, his sanction to their wholesome- ( ness. The hilarity which is felt at this period of the day must not be received as a signal for repairing to the banquet, but aa an indication of the sanguification of the previous meal.—Dr. Paris. “Much,” says Dr. Spenser Thomson, “has been said respecting the wholesomeness of eating suppers—much depends on circum- stances. Generally speaking, animal food once a day is sufficient for most; if, therefore, an individual for whom it is enough, after a suf- ficiently good meat-dinner, adds a superfluous meat-supper shortly before retiring to rest, there can be little wonder if he pays the penalty in sleep disturbed by dreams and nightmare, and by a furred tongue and unrefreshing waking in the morning. This is especially the case if the superfluity is indulged in after a dinner made in the latter part of the day. If dinner is early, if much exercise is taken be- tween that and the evening meal, and if supper is not eaten at too late an hour, many persons can take with benefit a moderate proportion of animal food. It certainly is better not to eat a meal heavy, either in quantity or quality, before a period of inactivity and sleep so prolonged as that of the night; but there is no doubt that much of the bad character of supper as a meal has arisen from its being so often one of super- fluity. Those to whom suppers are most in- jurious are the plethoric, or such as suffer from head symptoms. Some persons, however, especially dyspeptic invalids, do themselves harm by abstaining from suppers of every kind, even after the principal meal has been taken early in theday. They do this under the idea that all suppers are bad, and suffer in conse- quence from uneasy sensations in the stomach during the night and from a sense of exhaustion in the morning, both of which may be pre- vented by a moderate supper of light food, suck as is generally found to agree best; many a dyspeptic will find his morning meal better digested after a light supper than without.” . SUP ( 946 ) SWE Supréme Sauce.—Supréme sauce is very highly esteemed, yet cooks do not‘always agree as to the mode of preparing it. Two methods are here given:—No. 1. Take half a pint of stock which has been made with vealand chicken-bones. Thicken this with white roux, and stir it until it is smooth and coats the spoon. Take equal portions, of parsley, cress, and tarragon-leaves. Put these into scalding water for two minutes; then drain and mince them finely. Stir a dessert-spoonful of the chopped herbs into the sauce, and add salt and white pepper. Care- fully add a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon- juice to the sauce before serving. No. 2. Put the bones of a dressed chicken into a sauce- pan with an onion, a small bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Pour upon them a pint. of good veal stock, and simmer this till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, thicken it with white roux, and boil it till the sauce coats the spoon. Pour it out, stir into it a small slice of fresh butter until dissolved, and add a flavour- ing of milk of almonds. This sauce is generally poured over the fish or meat with which it is served. Susie’s Pudding (see Aunt Susie's Pudding). — Sete ‘Sussex Pudding.—Mix ingredients as for ordinary:suet pudding. . Make it into a stiff paste with cold water, and knead it well. Roll it to the shape of a bolster, tie it in a cloth, plunge .it into boiling water, and let it boil quickly for an hour. ,Take it.,up, cut it into slices the third of an inch thick, and put these into the dripping-tin under a roasting, joint. When they are slightly browned and soaked with dripping, serve them with the meat. Time to soak in the dripping, about twenty minutes. Sufficient. for four or five persons. Probable cost, 2d. : Swan.—Two or three hundred years ago the swan was looked upon as an elegant fashionable dish. Now swans are -but seldom dressed for the table, though their flesh is said to be both tender and delicious. Occasionally at special dinners a swan makes part of the bill of fare, and is always highly appreciated. The young birds or cygnets only are chosen. If any feel inclined to experiment upon this un- usual dish, they will find, in addition to the following recipe, full directions given under the heading Cygnet. Swan, Potted.—Skin the swan, and take out all the bones; cut the flesh into small pieces, and pound it ina mortar. Pound also with it some clean fat bacon, adding a little at a time. Beat this up with the flesh of the swan, so as to incorporate the two like an amalgam. When the mass has assumed a light flesh-colour, no more bacon need be added. ‘Continue to beat the meat until it is of the consistence of dough. Season it with salt, pepper, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, all finely powdered and well mixed and beaten up with it. Put the mass now into a baking-pan with a good glassful of port wine and the same quantity of water; cover the top with two pounds of cold fresh butter. Cover the pan with a coarse paste of flour and water. Bake it im an oven heated as for bread. When it is done, take off the crust, turn out the meat into a dish, gently squeeze out the moisture, and put it into pots. When cold pour over it clarified butter. Swans’ Eggs (sce Eggs, Swans’). Swedish Salad.—Take a couple of pickled herrings, cut off the heads and tails, remove the bones, and divide the flesh into dice. Mix with these two apples, peeled and sliced, two large boiled potatoes cut into dice, an equal quantity of cold roast beef, and a little sliced beetroot. Add a table-spoonful of sliced gherkins, .a table-spoonful of capers, a table-spoonful of shred tarragon-leaves, two table-spoonfuls of chopped chervil, and a hard-boiled egg finely minced. Season the salad rather highly with pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar. Put the whole in a salad-bowl and serve. A dozen or more freshly- opened oysters may, if liked, be laid upon the top of the salad, and various additions may be made to it. Picked shrimps, filleted anchovies, dressed Brussels sprouts, olives, curled celery, and green onions may all be introduced at discretion, and any other kind of dried’ or pickled fish may be used instead of herrings, if preferred. ~ i a ‘ Swéet and Ornamental Dishes.—As a little experience is necessary before sweet and ornamental dishes can be successfully manu- factured, the. housekeeper should take into consideration the question whether, where one or two dishes only are occasionally required, it is not better worth her while to purchase them at the confectioner’s than. to attempt making them at home. An inefficient cook might quickly waste over failures ingredients the cost of which would move than pay for the purchase of ready-made dishes. When these prepara- tions are frequently used, however, there is no doubt that it is much more economical to pre- pare them at. home, and many ladies, and young ladies especially, would do well to acquire the art (for it is nothing less) of, pre- paring. delicacies which would, if successful, reflect much credit. on their taste and skill. The general rule is, half an ounce of gelatine to a pint of liquid, nevertheless isinglass and gelatine vary so much in strength and quality, that experiment alone can determine the exact quantity which should be used. If the jellies or creams are to be put into one large mould, the preparation will need to be stiffer than if they are to be put into two or three small moulds, and it is always well to test a small quantity, by putting it into a cup or glass, to see if it will become stiff enough to turn out in a shape. If it does not do so, a little more isinglass should be added. When convenient it is always well to.set the moulds in ice till they are wanted. Moulds in which creams or. jellies are to be set should always be damped before the preparation. is put into them. Metal moulds will spoil the appearance of red jellies, therefore earthenware ones are much to be preferred. ,Sweetbread Kromeskies. — Prepare the sweetbreads as for croquettes (see Sweet- breads, Croquettes of). Let the preparation get quite cold, then divide it into equal portions, rolled to the shape of a cork. Place each ono SWE (947 ) SWE of these upon cold boiled fat bacon which has been cut into thin slices of a size that will just envelop the mince. Set these on a dish ina cool place till wanted. Dip them ‘separately into trying batter, and fry them in hot fat till they are crisp and lightly browned. Drain them on a wire sieve covered’ with paper, pile them on a napkin, then garnish ‘with fried parsley, and serve immediately.’ Time to fry the kromeskies, three or four minutes. | ~ Sweetbreads. — Sweetbreads: should be chosen as fresh as possible, as:they very quickly spoil. -There are two sorts—heart sweetbreads and throat sweetbreads.. The heart. swect- breads. are. the best, and also the most expensive. In whatever way sweetbreads are dressed, they should first be soaked in lukewarm water for a couple of hours. ‘They should then be put into boiling water and simmeréd gently for five or ten minutes, according to size, and when taken up they should be laid in cold water. Sweetbreads vary considerably in price, accord- ing to the time of the year. They are quite as frequently employed as ingredients in sundry made dishes, such as vol-au-vents, ragduts, &c., as served alone, and as they do not possess a very decided natural flavour they need to be accompanied by a highly-seasoned ‘sauce, oF they will taste rather insipid. They are ‘in full season from May to August. es Sweetbreads (4 la Dauphine). — Take two perfectly fresh sweetbreads. Let them soak well in water for two hours, changing the water occasionally. Put them into boiling water, and’ let ‘them simmer gently until they are firm without being hard. Put them in cold water for a few minutes, dry them, and lard them evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. Take a small stewpan which has belonging: to it a lid to hold live embers. Butter the in- side, and put into it a large carrot sliced and a moderate-sized onion. Lay one or two slices of bacon on the vegetables, then put in the aweetbreads, together with half a pint of strong brown gravy. Sprinkle a little salt over them, and stew with a. gentle fire under them and plenty of heat on the top. Baste frequently with the gravy until the sweetbreads are lightly browned. Add more gravy as it is necessary. Trim the sweetbreads neatly, put them on a dish with the bacon under them, strain the gravy upon them, and send dressed sorrel or endive or tomato sauce to table with them, Time to stew the sweetbreads, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost,/1s. 6d. to 5s. each. Sufficient for a small dish. Sweetbréads (4 la Maitre d’ Hotel).— Soak, blanch, cool, and trim the sweetbreads in the usual way. Lay them in a’ saucepan, and barely cover them with good véal gravy. Let them stew gently until done enough. Lay them on a hot dish, and have the sauce ready prepared to pour over them., This sauce may ‘be made as follows :—Take half a pint of good melted butter. Let it simmer a few minutes, and skim it well, then stir into it a dessert- ' spoonful of chopped parsley, the strained juice of 4 small lemon, and a little salt and cayenne. Take the sauce from the fire, let it cool a minute, stir into it until dissolved a small piece of fresh butter, and it will be ready for use. Time to Simmer the sweetbread, three-quartors of an hour. Sufficient, a fine large sweetbread for two persons. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. to 58. Sweetbreads and Palates, Pie of.— Take an equal number of . sweetbreads, and palates, and. prepare them both in the usual way (see Sweetbreads and Ox Palates). Let them stew till tender. in; good brown gravy, and lay them in a dish, Let the sauce cool a little, stir into it. the well-pounded’ yolks’ of two hard-boiled eggs, and pour it upon the meat. Cover the dish with’ good pastry, ahd bake in a well-heated oven. When the pastry is done enough the pie will be ready for serving, Sweetbreads and Palates Stewed.— Prepare both palates'and sweetbreads in the usual way. Cut them ‘into moderate - sized pieces, dredge flour upon them, and. them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Put them into a saucepan,'and pour upon them‘as much of the liquor in which they' are stewed as will barely cover them. | Thicken the sauce with brown thickening, season with: pepper, salt, grated lemon-rind and nutmeg, and add a glassful of sherry or madeira. Put the’meat ina dish, and pour the sauce over it. If liked, a dessert-spoonful of vinegar or strained lemon- Juice may be added at-the last moment. Time to stew, about half an hour. Sweetbreads (au Gratin). Second dress- ing.—Take the remains of sweetbreads which have been stewed in white or brown sauce. Put them in a pie-dish, pour the cold sauce over them, and cover the surface with finely-grated bread-crumbs, Lay little pieces of butter here and there on the top, and put the dish ‘in a brisk oven.. When it, is hot throughout it is done enough. If the top is not brightly browned, a salamander or red-hot shovel may be held over it to make it so. -Sweetbreads, Baked.—Soak the sweet- breads well in water for two hours, and change the water once or.twice during the time. Throw them into boiling water, and let them simmer gently for five minutes or more, till they are firm and round, but not hard. Take them up} drain them, and’ throw them into cold water to cool. Brush them over in every part with beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, sprinkle clarified butter upon them, and bread-crumb them again. Put them in a ‘baking-tin with about two ounces of butter, and bake in-a well-heated oven;, baste them till they are done enough and brightly browned. Take as many slices of hot toast as there are: sweetbreads: Put them in a dish, lay the sweetbreads upon them, pour brown gravy. round, but not over them, and serve immediately. Time to. bake from half to three-quarters of an hour, accord- ing to size. Probable cost of sweetbreads; 1s. 6d. to 5s. each. ‘Sweetbreads, Broiled.—Take moderate sized, sweetbreads and prepare them in the ugual way. Stew them in good stock till they are done enough. ‘Then drain them, and press them between two dishes till cold. Split them ag F ae SWE ( 948 ) SWE in halves and trim them neatly; brush them ever with butter, and broil them over a clear but very gentle fire. Have a plate with clarified butter upon it near the gridiron, and keep dipping the sweetbreads in it, turning them frequently. When they are brightly browned all over they are done enough. Dish the slices in a circle, and send brown sauce flavoured with lemon-juice to table in a tureen. Time to stew the sweetbreads, about half an hour. Sweetbreads, Browned.—Soak, blanch, and stew the sweetbreads in as much good and nicely-flavoured stock as will barely cover them. When they have simmered about half an hour, take them up, and put them into a round saucepan just large enough to hold them with a good slice of fresh butter which is melted and just beginning to brown. Turn the sweetbreads over and over till they are equally and brightly browned in every part. Keep them hot by the side of the stove. Thicken the stock in which they were boiled with brown thickening. Flavour with mush- room ketchup and lemon-juice, and add a table-spoonful of light wine. Place the sweet- breads on a dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with toasted sippets, brain cakes, force- meat balls, or any little adjuncts which are suitable, and can be easily procured. Probable cost of sweetbreads, 1s. 6d. to 5s. Sweetbreads, Cold, To Re-dress.— Cut the cold sweetbreads into neat pieces. Stew them gently in strong brown gravy till they are quite hot throughout; place them on a dish, pour the gravy over them, and garnish with fried sippets. Sweetbreads, Cételets of.—Procure the sweetbreads as fresh as possible. Soak them for an hour. Throw them into boiling water for five minutes, let them cool, then simmer them in rich, well-seasoned gravy. Leave them in the liquor till cold. Cut them into pieces an inch square, put them on skewers alternately with a little piece of bacon or a piece of ready-dressed calf’s udder, all being made as nearly as possible of the same shape and size. Dip them twice into egg and bread- crumbs. Pat them into shape with a knife, and fry in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Send white or brown Italian sauce to table inatureen. Sometimes bearded oysters are put upon the skewers with the sweetbreads and bacon. Time, half an hour to simmer the sweetbreads. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. to 5s. each. Sweetbreads, Croquettes of.—Take a cold dressed sweetbread, cut it into quarter- inch dice, and mix with it its bulk in mush- rooms which have been cut in the same way. Stir both together over a gentle fire in some very thick white sauce, and pour the mixture upon a dish. When quite cold, divide the mixture into portions of an equal size, roll these to the shape of balls or corks, dip them in egg beaten up with pepper, salt, and oil, and roll them in bread-crumbs. Fry in hot fat till they are crisp and lightly browned, drain them thoroughly, serve ona hot napkin, and garnish with parsley. Time, ten minutes to fry the croquettes. Sweetbreads, Croquettes of (another way).—Take a cold dressed sweetbread, cut it up into small pieces, and mix with it half its weight in finely-grated bread-crumbs., Season the mixture with salt, cayenne, grated lemon- rind, and grated nutmeg. Put it into a sauce-~ pan with as much cream or milk as will moisten the crumbs, and stir briskly over a clear fire for ten minutes. Spread the preparation on a dish, and let it get quite cold. Form it into equal- sized portions, roll these to the shape of corks or balls, dip them in egg and bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain them before the fire, and serve as before. Time, ten minutes to fry the cro- quettes. Sweetbreads, Cutlets of.—Soak and blanch two or more tine fresh sweetbreads in the usual way. Let them simmer in nicely- flavoured stock for half an hour, and let them cool in the liquor. Drain and dry them ina cloth, and cut them into slices an inch and a quarter across. Dip them into beaten egg and seasoned. bread-crumbs, then into clarified butter, and again into bread-crumbs. Pat them into shape, and fry them in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain them, pile them on a dish, and pour round, but not upon them, good brown gravy flavoured with mushroom and lemon- juice, or with a glassful of white wine, or white sauce may be served with them. If liked the cutlets may be placed upon a little piece of fried bread of the same shape and size as they are, or slices may be cut from a dressed tongue, and these may be egged, breaded, and fried like the slices of sweetbread. When the latter plan is adopted, the sweetbread cutlets should be laid upon the slices of tongue. Time to fry the cutlets, three or four minutes. Sweetbreads, Cutlets of, Fricas- seed.—Prepare and fry the cutlets according to the directions that have been already given. Thicken a small quantity of nicely-seasoned gravy with roux or brown thickening. Flavour it with mushroom ketchup and lemon-juice, and add a table-spoonful of sherry or madeira. Put in the fried slices, let them simmer gently oe few minutes, and serve altogether on a Sweetbreads, Fried.—Soak the sweet- breads for an hour, plunge them into boiling water for five ntinutes, and throw them into cold water till cool. Cut them in slices, egg and bread-crumb them, dip them in clarified butter, bread them again, and fry in plenty of hot fat till they are brightly browned on both sides. Drain them, and then dish on toast, pouring cucumber sauce or mattre @hétel sauce upon them. Time to fry the slices, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. to 5s. each. Sweetbreads, Fried, Simple Me- thod.—Soak, blanch, and, cool the sweet- breads. Dry them, cut them in slices, and dredge flour upon them. Fry them in hot fat till they are nicely browned, and pour good nicely-flavoured brown gravy over them. This is one of the most simple methods of dressing SWE ( 949 ) SWE sweetbreads. Time, ten minutes to fry the slices. Sweetbreads, Larded (a la Financiére). —Soak four sweetbreads, boil them quickly till they are firm but not at all hard, cool them, then lard them evenly and thickly with thin strips of fat bacon. Butter a baking-dish, and spread a layer of sliced carrots, onions, and celery at the bottom. Lay the sweetbreads upon the vegetables, and pour round them as much stock as will barely come up to the lard- ing. Put them in a sharp oven, and bake until done enough, basting them frequently with the liquor. When they are done enough, and the surface is brightly browned, dish them as follows :—Put a croustade in a dish, and fill jt with Toulouse or financiére ragott. Place the sweetbreads against the sides of the crous- _tade, and garnish the dish as prettily as possible. If liked, Toulouse ragotit may be used for the croustade instead of financiére ragott, and then the dish becomes Sweetbread & la Toulouse. The croustade may be made as follows :—Take an oval loaf one day old. Cut off the round top, and scoop out the crumb of the loaf, leaving three-quarters of an inch of bread all round, and at the bottom. Pare away the crust and dip the case into oiled butter. Put it in the oven till it begins to harden, then again dip it in butter, and place it again in the oven till it acquires a little colour, when it will be ready for use. Time to bake the sweetbreads, about half an hour. Sweetbreads, Minced, in Paper Cases.—Take some cold dresssed sweetbreads, and cut them into dice. Take an equal quantity of mushrooms and cut them up also. Stew the mushrooms in butter, and add a slice of fat bacon, the sweetbreads, and a little parsley, pepper, and salt. One or two shal- lots may be added if liked. Simmer over a gentle fire till the mushrooms are done enough. Drain off the fat, take out the parsley, and place the preparation in small paper cases which have been thoroughly oiled. Sprinkle a pinch of savoury herbs on the top, and cover each one with finely-grated bread-crumbs. Put the cases in the oven for a moment that they may be thoroughly heated, squeeze into each a few drops of lemon-juice, add a spoonful of rich gravy, and serve very hot. Dish the minced sweetbreads on a napkin. Time to simmer the mixture, about a quarter of an hour. Sweetbreads, Patties of.—Cold dressed sweetbread, if cut into quarter-inch dice and prepared according to the directions already given for making sweetbread croquettes, may be used for filling small patties or vol-au-vent cases. They should be put into the oven for a minute or fwo to make them quite hot, and served on a hot napkin. This mince may also be enclosed in a circular piece of pastry of the size of a crown piece, and fried in hot fat till the pastry is sufficiently cooked. They should then be drained and piled on a napkin. Sweetbreads, Pie of—Take two or more fresh sweetbreads. Soak, blanch, and cool them, then cut each one into three pieces, and simmer them in white stock with about two dozen mushrooms. Let them simmer fora quarter of an hour. Lay them in a dish, put the mushrooms among them, and also six or eight veal forcemeat balls, the green tops of a quarter of a hundred sticks of asparagus, and the hard-boiled yolks of three or four eggs. Thicken the gravy with white thickening, add pepper and salt if required, and pour it over the meat. Lay’slices of fat bacon on the top of the meat, cover all with good pastry, and bake the pie in a moderately-heated oven. Time, according to size. Probable cost of sweet- breads, 1s. 6d. to 5s. each. Sweetbreads, Ragotlt of. — Soak, blanch, and cool the sweetbreads, then simmer them in nicely-seasoned stock for half an hour. Let them cool, cut them into pieces about an inch square, and half an inch thick, dry them perfectly, and flour them; then fry them in butter till they are brightly browned. Put into a saucepan a pint of stock, add a sliced onion and a sliced carrot, both fried, a little piece of bacon-rind, a table-spoonful of mush- room ketchup, alittle salt and cayenne, and two allspice. Add a spoonful of brown thickening, and simmer the sauce for a quarter of an hour. Strain it, and put the browned sweetbreads into it for a few minutes. Place them on a dish, and pour the sauce over them. Send rice boiled as for curry, or a little macaroni to table on a separate dish. Time, one hour, ex- clusive of the time taken in preparing the sweetbreads for dressing. Sweetbreads, Roast.—Soak the sweet- breads for a couple of hours, plunge them into boiling water, boil them quickly for five or ten minutes, and throw them into cold water. Simmer them gently for twenty minutes, dry them, dip them in clarified butter, and cover them with highly-seasoned bread-crumbs. Put a small skewer through them, and tie them on a spit. Roast them gently before a clear fire, and baste industriously during the process. Serve on a hot dish, which should be gar- nished with parsley and cut lemon. Brown sauce or mushroom sauce may be sent to table with the sweetbreads. If liked, the sweetbreads can be roasted in a Dutch oven before the fire, in- stead of being tied to a spit. They will need to be basted liberally, and to be turned about that they may be equally browned. Time, about twenty minutes to simmer the sweetbreads ; half an hour to roast them. Sweetbreads, Stewed. — Soak two sweetbreads for an hour. Boil them quickly for ten minutes, and put them into cold water for twenty minutes. Lay them in a saucepan, pour over them three-quarters of a pint of white stock, and add a little pepper and salt and a small pinch of powdered mace. Let them simmer gently for half an hour. Take them up, and put them in the oven to keep hot. Thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, let it boil, and when it is smooth stir in four table-spoonfuls of cream. Put the sweet- breads on a dish. Add a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice to the sauce, and pour it over. Time to stew the sweetbreads, half to threes SWE ( 950) SWE quarters of an hour, according to size. Prob- able cost, 1s. 6d. to ds. each. Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Sweetbreads, Vol-au-Vent of.—Soak two.large fine sweetbreads in water for a couple. of hours. Boil them quickly for ten minutes, and throw them into cold water. When cool, dry them perfectly, cut them into small pieces, and dredge flour upon them. Melt:two ounces of butter in a saucepan, put in the pieces of sweetbread, and add the third of a pint of white stock, the strained juice of a lemon, two table- spoonfuls of sherry or madeira, a busch ‘of sweet herbs, the thin rind of half a lemon, half a blade of mace, two cloves, and a little pepper, sait, and grated nutmeg. Let the sauce boil up once, skim it, and let the sweetbreads simmer gently’ antil done enough. Take them up, strain the sauce, and mix with it gradually the yolks of two eggs beaten up with four table- spoonfuls of cream, Stir the sauce over the fire for a minute or two, but do not let it boil. Make a vol-au-vent case four inches in diameter. Bake it until done enough, scoop out the centre, and ‘fill it with the mince. Serve the vol-au- ‘vent very hot ona neatly-folded napkin.. This dish will be much improved if a few mushrooms | and browned potatoes are added to the prepara- tion. Clean and skin eighteen or twenty button mushrooms, put them into a saucepan, cover with oiling water, and add the strained juice of a lemon and 4 little salt. Let them. boil quickly for ten or twelve minutes. Make'a dozen small balls of mashed potatoes, dip these , in egg, and make them hot in the oven. Fill. the vol-au-vent case (which, if the. mushrooms and potatoes are added, will, need to be six inches in diameter) with layers of sweetbread, potato balls, and mushrooms. Pour the. sauce over all, and serve. z Sweetbreads, ». White.—Soak,'i:blanch, | and cool the sweetbreads in: tho ‘usual:way.. | ey tre Put into a saucepan of a'size to hold them conveniently, but no larger, as much white | stock’ ‘as will barely cover the’ sweetbreads. | Thitken: this with white roux-or with a little! flour’ and butter, add « bunch ‘of parsley, a | small onion, and a little pepper, salt, and grated | nutmeg. “Let it simmer two or three minutes, then add two.table-spoonfuls of thick: cream. Put in the sweetbreads, and. let them simmer in the sauce until doneenough. Take the herbs out of the-sauce, let it cool a. minute, then. mix a spoonful of it with the yolk of an egg. Add, this gradually to the rest of the sauce, stir it until it is smooth, then put the sweetbreads on a dish, and pour the sauce over'them. Garnish with parsley and lemon, or with a few mush- rooms. If liked, the egg yolks may. be omitted, . and a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice may be added ,to.the sauce, which should be rather highly seasoned. White dishes should not be insipid; though delicate, they should be piquant. ‘Time, half an hour to simmer, the sweetbreads. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. to 5s. each. Sufficient, one sweetbread for two persons. -Sweetbreads with Mushrooms. — Soak, -blanch, and trim two fine sweetbreads, and lard them evenly. with thin strips of fat: bacon. Slice a carrot, a turnip, a small onion, and a few sticks of celery, and fry these vegetables in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain away the fat, put the swect- breads upon the vegetables, and add as much stock as will barely cover them, together with a little salt and cayenne, a small lump of sugar, the thin rind of half a lemon, as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a threepenny-piece, a small blade of mace, four: allspice, and-half a wine-glassful of brandy. Let the sauce boil quickly, ‘skim carefully, and then simmer the sweetbreads till done enough: Take them up, put a little piece of fresh butter on each, and place them in the oven to keep them hot. Put ‘into the gravy a dozen small mushrooms which ‘have been skinned and cleaned, and add a tea- spoonful of tarragon vinegar and a'little brown thickening. Put the sweetbreads again into the sauce, and let them simmer for ten or fiftéen minutes. Serve on a hot dish with the sauce poured round them. Time to.simmer the sweetbreads, half to three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient for four or five persons.’ Sweetbreads.with Trufiles.—Prepare the sweetbreads in the usual manner, flour them,.and bake in a gentle oven till they are lightly browned. Baste frequently. Whilst they are baking, prepare the sauce to be served with them as follows :—Peel half a dozen truffles, and cut them into slices about the.third of an inch thick. - Put these.in a saucepan with a large wine-glassful of marsala, the strained juice of a lemon, and a little salt and cayenne. Let ‘them simmer gently a few minutes, then add a quarter of a-pint-of' good stock. ‘Thicken the ‘gravy with brown thickening, and let it-boil till ‘smooth. . Put in the sweetbreads, let them simmer twenty minutes longer; and’ serve very hot. ‘Time, altogether, one hour. _ Probable cost of swéetbreads, 1s. 6d. to 5s. each. .. Sweet. Creams.—aA variety of rich and delicate. preparations are included. under: this denomination. In all, cream isthe principal article which enters into their composition. These dishes generally take. their distinctive name from the flavouring ingredients, and itis nee these headings that they must be looked or. Sweet’ Herbs.—The sweet herbs: most frequently used in cookery are parsley, thyme, marjoram, sage, basil, savory, and mint. When they are not stored for use they may be! pur- chased of the herbalist or greengrocer, or they may be bought. dried and. in. bottles ofthe grocer or Italian. warehouseman. ‘When it. is recommended that a bunch of sweet herbs is to-be used, it is to’be understood.that.a handful of parsley, a sprig.of thyme, and a. bay-leaf are to be taken. To these a bunch of sweet marjoram and a little piece of garlic about, the size of a pea may be added. When these ingredients are to be stewed in soups-or sauces they should be tied securely in a bunch with the «parsley outside. When thus fastened together they are often spoken of as a fagot or a bouquet garni. A properly-made fagot 4s about three inches long. : Sweet Herbs, Omelet of, — Prepare the omelet in the usual way. (See Omelet, rat SWE ( 951 ) SWI and PrincirLes or Cookery, page iv.) Be- fore frying it, stir into it a very small quantity of chopped sweet herbs. Parsley, chervil, and chives are the herbs most frequently chosen. Onions or shallots, thyme, and sage, may ‘be introduced if liked. Sweet Jellies. — These - preparations, though elegant in appearance, and when nicely flavoured delicious to the taste, are not really so nourishing as they were at one time thought to be. Calf’s-foot jelly is good, certainly, but jsinglass and gelatine do not possess much valuein the sickroom. These jellies constitute, however, pretty ornamental dishes, which are useful,and exceedingly convenient. No diffi- culty need be-experienced in making jelly clear and bright, if the instructions given -in Calf’s Foot Jelly, and Isinglass, and Gelatine Jelly, are closely followed. Sweet Jelly.—Soak an ounce of best gelatine in water for an hour. . Drain it, and pour upon it half a pint of boiling water, then stir it until dissolved. Add.the juice and peel of two lemons, and six ounces of loaf sugar, together with a large wine-glassful of wine or'any approved liqueur, and as‘much cold water as'will make up the quantity to one quart. Beat the whites of two eggs to froth.: . Briskly stir them with the crushed: shells:of the eggs into the liqueur, which should be almost. cold. Bring it slowly to the boil, and let it simmer gently without touching it for ten minutes. Take it off the fire, and let'it stand:to settle for ten minutes, then strain it through a‘jelly-bag till it is quite clear‘and bright. When-it is again cool, put it into one or more-moulds, and let it stand in a cool place till-it is stiff. When it is wanted, plunge it for a‘single instant into boiling water, turn it upon a glass dish, and serve. Time, eight or ten hours- will be needed to stiffen the jelly if it is not set upon ice. Probable cost, 1s. 2d., exclusive of , the wine or liqueur. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Sweetmeats, Brown.—Taketheremains of any kind of candied preparation-'‘Pound it well, and pass it through a sieve: “Mix'with it beaten eges to form a stiff :paste,’and flavour this with’ any suitable flavouring.’ ‘Work a little flour into the paste. [Roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, stamp it into shapes, place these on white paper, and bake in a-gentle oven till they are stiff. Time to bake, about half an hour. , ‘Sweet Patties.—Sweet patties may be made’of various ingredients, and:in 4 vuriety of ways (see Patties, ‘Preparation of). The mince to fill them will be exeellent if made as fol- lows :—Take the meat of a boiled calf’s-foot— one which has been stewed down for stock may be utilised in this way—drain it well,. mince it finely, and mix with it a table-spoonful of finely-shred: suet, three apples, pared, cored, and chopped small, a spoonful of candiéd peel chopped small, the pounded yolks of two hard- boiled eggs, the strained juice of a lemon, and alittle of the grated rind: sugar to taste, and add a small ‘glassful of wine. Put this mince into pastry, and bake the patties in the usual way. ee Pickles (see Pickles, Sweet, Ameri- can). Sweet Sauce for Puddings.—Take half a pint of good melted butter made with milk, sweeten ‘it,; and flavour-with- cinnamon, grated nutmeg, or ‘bitter almonds. Serve’ very hot... Two: table-spoonfuls of cream stirred into'the sauce'at the last -moment will help to enrich it. ‘Time, about:a quarter of an. hour. Probable cost; 4d. to 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Sweet. Sauce for Venison.—Dissolve two table-spoonfuls of red-currant jelly, and stir into it a glassful of port or claret. Do not let the sauce boil. Or stir two or three good- sized lumps of sugar into a quarter of a pint of venison gravy until dissolved. Add a large glassful of port or claret, and serve. Sweet Spice, Pastrycook’s.—This «is madé by mixing together two parts of sugar, one part of cassia, one part of nutmeg, one part of mace; and the same of cloves. - Swiss Apple Pudding (sce Apple, Swiss. Paine ‘pp 8 ( pple, ; Swiss Cocoa-nut Pudding.—Shred a quarter of a pound of beef suet very finely. Mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and add two ounces of grated cocoa-nut, six ounces of strawberry or any othér jam, and a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar. Beat two eggs with the milk of the cocoa-nut, or three table-spoonfuls. of milk. Pour: this: liquor over the pudding, and let -it stand to.soak for an hour. Butter a -mould thickly:.-Beat the pudding till the ingredients are‘ thoroughly mixed,.and put it into' the mould. Tie it in a cloth, plunge it into fast- boiling water, and boil quickly until done enough: Turn it vut, sift powdered. sugar thickly: upon'it, and serve. | Time to boilythree hours'and avhalf. Probable-cost; 1s. Sufficient forfour ‘or fiveypersons.*" ~~ . Swiss.Condensed Cream (sée Milk, Condensed Swiss Cream.—Crumble a quarter of a pound of macaroons and two or three penny sponge cakes, or use a mixture of macaroons and ratafias:'“Lay the crumbs ina glass’ dish. Pour over them a glassful of sherry, and spread a spoonful or two of jam upon them. If a plain dish is required, the sherry or the,jam, or both, miay be omitted. Simmer the thin rind of half a lemon, or a little ‘piece of vanilla, in half a‘cupful of milk till it is pleasantly flavoured.’ Add a pint of cream and as much sugar as ‘will, sweeten it pleasantly. Mix a table-spoonful of corn-flour smoothly with a little cold’ milk, and add this gradually to tho’ rest. Stir the mixture over a gentle fire till it boils; pour it out, and stir it again till it is almost ‘cold. Add the juice of a lemon, and pour the cream over the cakes in the dish. Ornament the top with bright-coloured jelly or jam, or with strips of angelica. If liked, two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot may be substituted for the corn-flour, or a table-spoonful of flour even may be used. The cream should stand in SWI ( 952 ) SYL @ cool place three or four hours before it is wanted. Swiss Milk (see Cream). Swiss Pudding, Plain.—Take half a dozen large baking apples, pared, cored, and sliced, and half a pound of finely-grated bread- crumbs. Butter a pie-dish, and cover the bottom with a layer of bread-crumbs. Add a layer of sliced apples, and sprinkle over these a little grated nutmeg or lemon-rind, and a large spoonful of moist sugar. Fill the dish with alternate layers of bread-crumbs and apples, and Jet crumbs form the uppermost as well as the lowest layer. Place little pieces of butter here and there on the top of the pudding, and pour half a cupful of water and the juice of the lemon upon it. Bake in a moderate oven. ‘When the surface of the pudding is brightly browned, and the apples have fallen, it is done enough. Serve with finely-powdered sugar. If liked, six ounces of beef suet may be substi- tuted for the butter, and the ingredients may be mixed thoroughly, put into a buttered mould, and boiled instead of being baked. Time to bake, about two hours, less or more according to the quality of the apples; to boil, four hours. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Swiss Trifle.—Crumble a quarter of a pound of macaroons, and a quarter of a pound of ratafias, and put them into a glass dish. Pour a glassful of brandy upon them, and let them soak for a while. Sweeten a pint of cream, and flavour with lemon-rind or any suitable flavouring. Put it into a saucepan, and stir. into it a table-spoonful of ground rice which has been mixed to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Let it boil gently till it begins to thicken, and stir it all the time. Pour it out, and when it is almost cold add the strained juice of two lemons. Pour the mixture upon the cakes. Stick blanched almonds into it, and let it stand an hour or two before it is used. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil the milk with the rice. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Sydney Smith’s Recipe for Salad {see Poet’s Recipe for Salad). Syllabubs.—Soak the thin rind of a fresh lemon in a pint of sherry or madeira, and let it remain all night. Sweeten it well, and add three table-spoonfuls of brandy, a pint and a half of rich cream beaten up with the white of an egg, and the juice of the lemon. Beat the mixture to froth. As it rises place it in the glasses, pile it as high as possible, and place it in a cool place. In a little time the syllabubs will get firm, and settle into a highly-flavoured preparation covered with snowy froth. If liked, melted red-currant or black-currant jelly may be mixed with half the cream before it is whipped, and this will make the syllabubs contrast in colour. Syllabubs should be made the day before they are wanted. Syllabubs, Birthda see Birthday Sytla tuba}, ms Syllabubs, Common.—Put four ounces of pounded sugar into a bowl, and ald the rind of a lemon, a grated nutmeg, half a pint of sweet wine, and half a pint of sherry. Mix all thoroughly till the sugar is dissolved. Pour in with a tea-pot or spouted jug held at a good height # pint and a half of warm milk. Serve the syllabub cold. A little pounded cinnamon and clouted cream may be laid on the top. Sometimes cider is used instead of wine, and then a little brandy should certainly be added. Syllabubs, Devonshire (see Devonshire Syllabubs). Syllabubs, Everlasting (see Everlasting syllebubs). , sf Syllabubs in Glasses.—Put a quarter of a pound of sugar into a small punch-bowl, and pour upon it the strained juice of a large fresh lemon. Stir the mixture briskly, and add a tumblerful of port, a tumblerful of sherry, and half a tumblerful of brandy. Add half a nutmeg grated, place the bowl under the cow, and fill it till it froths high in the bowl. In serving put a little curd into each glass, fill it with whey, and place a spoonful of thick cream on the top. Syllabubs, Large.—Put half a pound of powdered white sugar into a bowl, and strain upon it the juice of twolemons. Add the grated rind of one lemon, a glassful of madeira, a glass- ful of sweet wine, a little powdered cinnamon, and as much ratafia as will flavour the mixture pleasantly. Stir until the sugar is dissolved. Add a quart of cream, and whisk the prepara- tion to a froth. Lay some macaroons in the bottom of a dish. As the froth rises pile it upon the biscuits. Keep it in a cool place. This syllabub ought to be made a couple of days before it is wanted. It will keep five or six days. Syllabubs, Lemon (see Lemon Sylla- bubs). : Syllabubs, London (see London Sylla- bs). Syllabubs, Simple.—Take a pint of cream, and put to it the whites of three eggs well beaten, add the juice of one lemon, three spoonfuls of wine, grated lemon-peel, and sugar according to taste. Have the glasses ready with a little wine in each of them; whisk the cream, and as the froth rises fill the glasses. Syllabubs, Solid.—Take one quart of cream, one quart of white wine, the juice of two lemons, the grated peel of a lemon, and sugar to taste. Mix these ingredients, mill them to a froth, then take off the scum as it rises, and place it to drain on a hair sieve. Half fill the glasses with the scum, and heap. the froth on it. Syllabubs that will keep a week or ten days.—Put the grated rind and strained juice of three lemons upona pound of powdered sugar. Add a pint and a half of good wine, and a quart of thick cream. A little brandy may be added or not. Whisk the mixture patiently one way till it is well frothed. As the froth rises, take it off gently, and pile it in glasses. Sprinkle some hundreds and thousands SYL ( 953 } SYR on the top, and keep the syllabubs in a cool place. Syllabubs under the Cow.—Take a large china bowl—a punch bowl is the most suitable for the purpose—put into it half a pound of lump sugar, the strained juice of a jemon, « pint of sherry, a glassful of brandy, and three-quarters of a pint of cream beaten up with white of egg. Stir the mixture briskly for a minute or two, and put a dozen ratafias into it. Take it to the dairymaid, and let her milk the cow into the bowl until it is quite full. Put it away, and let it remain untouched till the following day. Grate a little nutmeg on the top, and serve. Syllabubs, Whipped.—Rub a lump of loaf sugar on the outside of a lemon, put to it half a pint of thick cream, and sweeten to taste. Squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and add a glassful of madeira wine or French brandy. Mull it to a froth with a chocolate mill, take off the froth as it rises, and lay it in a hair sieve. Fill one half of the glass with red wine, then lay the froth as high as possible; but take care that it is well drained in the sieve, otherwise it will mix with the wine, and the syllabub be spoiled. Syrup and Wine Sauce for Rich Sweet Puddings.—Take a quarter of a pint of good melted butter. Stir into this half a quarter of a pint of dissolved red-currant jelly and half a quarter of a pint of port. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is on the point of boiling, and pour it upon and around the pudding. Syrup Clarified for Jellies.—Put two pounds of refined sugar into a well-tinned saucepan with a quart of water. When the sugar is dissolved, stir in briskly the white of an egg beaten up with a spoonful of-cold water. Beat the syrup thoroughly, let it boil, and remove the scum as it rises. Strain it through a sieve, and it will be fit for use. Syrup Clarified for Jelly (another way).—See Jelly, Syrup Clarified for. Syrup Clarified for Keeping.—Allow half a pint of water to a pound of refined loaf sugar, and the white of an egg to four pounds cof sugar. Break up the sugar, and pour the water upon it. Stir it until dissolved. Beat the white of egg, and stir it into the syrup while it is still cold. Let it heat gradually, removing the scum as it rises. When per- fectly clear, strain it into a napkin, and keep it in closely-stoppered bottles for use. This syrup will keep for some weeks. If less sugar were used than the quantity named the syrup would ferment. Syrup Clarified with Isinglass. — Allow half a pint of water to each pound of sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of Russian isinglass to six pounds of sugar. Pour the water over the sugar, and let it stand till dis- solved. Dissolve the isinglass in boiling water, and add it to the syrup. Let the mixture cool, then put it on the fire, and as the scum rises remove it. When quite clear it will be ready for use. Syrup thus prepared may be uscd for preserving fruit. Syrup, Custard and (see Custard and Syrup). Syrup for Compdtes.—The quantity of sugar used in preparing syrup for compétes must vary with the nature of the fruit. Very acid fruit will of course need more sugar than luscious fruit. For a good many kinds of fruit half a pound of sugar may be boiled in three- quarters of a pint of water. Syrup thus made is not intended to keep. To make it, dissolve the sugar in the water, and boil it till clear. Remove the scum as it rises. Time to boil, about a quarter of an hour. Syrup for Compdétes (another way).— See Compdtes, Syrup for. Syrup for Liqueurs.—Put a pint of water in a preserving-pan over the fire. When it boils, drop gradually into it half a pound of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, let it boil up, skim it, and pour it out. When cold it will be fit for use. Syrup of Apples (a German recipe).—Peel a dozen fine rennets, cut them into slices as thin as possible, put them into a jar with a pound and a half of sugar and six spoonfuls of water: put the lid on, and place it in a bain-marie for two hours, keeping the water always boiling : be careful from time to time to move the jar, but do not take if out of the water, because by coming into the cold air it might crack. When it has boiled two hours let the fire go out, and leave the jar in the bain-marie till nearly cold. When the juice is almost cold, flavour it with lemon-juice, adding a spoonful of essence of lemon, a spoonful of essence of cinnamon, orange-flower water, or anything you please to flavour it with. If it is not quite clear, let it stand for two or three hours more, then pour it gently into bottles, taking great care not to disturb the sediment at the bottom. Syrup of Barberries.—Boil a quart of water, throw into it a pound of very mpe bar- berries picked from the stalks; after boiling up a few times let them infuse till the following day ; then boil two pounds and a half of sugar to pearling; set the barberries again on the fire, and after boiling them up three or four times strain them; add the juice to the sugar, and put the whole on the fire. Skim the prepara- tion the whole time of boiling, which must be about twenty minutes. When done bottle it. This syrup seldom ferments. Syrup of Cowslips.—Upon every gallon of cowslip flowers with their white part cut off pour a quart of boiling water. Put tho pan containing them over a very slow fire, where it must simmer gently during six hours. Let it stand till next day, then replace it otcra good fire until it reaches the boiling point, but Defore ebullition commences remove it from the fire. Squeeze out the flowers as hard as you possibly can, and add the same quantity of fresh flowers. Make the preparation boil; but the moment ebullition begins, replace it on the slow fire, and let it simmer again for six hours. SYR ( 954 ) SYR Again let it stand till next day, when having heated it as before, but without boiling, squeeze out the flowers while hot, and to every pint of the expressed juice add two pounds of sugar dissolved by standing the pan in boiling .water. Now set it on the fire, and stir it until the scum ! rises; then remove it from the fire, and skim it; repeat this until no more scum rises. Let it now have a single boil, and run it through a jelly-bag. When quite cold, bottle it in pint bottles. Syrup of Mulberries (a French recipe). —Gather and pick the fruit before it is quite ripe, that the juice may have a little acidity. Reduce to powder an equal weight’ of sugar, and place it together with the fruit in a pre- serving-pan ; do not mash the fruit, or it will make the juice thick. Set the pan over a very moderate fire; the heat will soon burst the fruit, and by this means the juice will be quite clear. When the sugar is dissolved it will require a few boilings to make the. syrup. Strain it through a horsehair sieve without pressing the fruit. clarified. Syrup of. Orgeat.—Blanch a pound of sweet and two ounces of bitter almonds; rub them in a mortar to a smooth paste, adding now and then half a table-spoonful of. cold water to prevent them from oiling. Mix the paste gradually with three pints of cold water; strain. it. through a cotton bag, squeezing the bag well to get out all the goodness of the almonds, a pint of orange-flower water. Now make a gallon of clarified syrup, pass it through a jelly-bag, set it on the fire, and boil it up. ‘When approaching to a proper consistence, stir in the emulsion gradually so .as to: check the boiling a little. Let it now continue to boil until it is done enough., Put it to cool., Bottle the syrup while still warm, agitating it before you pour it into the bottles. Let it stand till quite cold before you cork it. To make it keep: better, pour a little drop of-olive oil on the top of each bottle, which must be quite full, allow- ing not more than half an inch of space between the cork and the liquid. When a ’bottle is ‘opened, the oil is to removed with'a bit ‘of cotton. For another way, see Orgeat Syrup.” “§ of Raspberry. — Mash your raspberries a little immediately after they are ‘gathered. ‘ Put them into a stone jar with half a pint of the best white-wine vinegar to each pound. Let them stand in a cold cellar during two days. Run the-liquor through a hair-sieve, but without forcing through any of the rasp- berry-pulp, and to every pint put a pound and three-quarters of sugar. When the sugar is dissolved, clarify it with white of egg, only heating but not boiling it; then put it on again to boil over a clear brisk fire; skim it as it boils up ; let it boil ten minutes, then stir it till it is quite cold. By mixing a couple of table-spoon- fuls of this syrup in half a. tumbler of water, and stirring in as much carbonate of soda as will cover a shilling, the famous effervescent raspberryade is formed. The pulp of the rasp- The mulberries will remain | in the sieve, and the syrup will not need to. be | Mix with this emulsion a quarter of | berries'may be converted into raspberry jam, the slight flavour of vinegar forming an agree- able variety.. In Germany salad oil is some- times poured on the top of raspberry syrup before corking : it is said to insure its keeping for any length of time. . For another way of making syrup of raspberry, see Raspberry Syrup. Syrups.—lIn addition to the above, recipes for the following syrups will be found under their respective headings :— ALMOND GRosEILLES APRICOT Jetiy, Syrup Crari- BarBEeRRy FIED FOR ; BLACKBERRY Lemon Cuernries PreserveD LEMONADE In Syrup ALarascHINo Comportes, Syrup ror MvLprrry Currant ORANGE GINGER ORANGE-PEEL Oranczs In Syrup. “Syrups, Fruit.—Some rules for prepdr- ing fruit syrups, given by a German expert; are perhaps worth a trial by our readers: : To have fruit-juicés fit for preservation, it is necessary, in the first place, to select fully-ripe and un- decayed fruit, and after mashing the ‘fruit it should receive an addition of five to ten per cent. of sugar, and ‘then be left-to-undergo-a slight fermentation. The juice after filtration becomes perfectly clear, and is much. improved dn, flavour:and colour.. Raspberries, whortle- berries, currants, cherries, &c., may be thus treated, but the delicate flavour of the straw- berry requires some modification of the process. In this, two pounds of carefully-picked straw- ‘berries—the wild strawberry of the wood is the best—are put into a glass jar with two'and a half pounds of white powdered sugar, and occasionally shaken. ‘The sugar extracts: the juice, and the berries shrivel to a dry pulp; and after: filtering the syrup’ is ready “for. use. Heating must be carefully avoided, ‘as-it would at once destroy the fragrance of the’fruit. As .to. cherries, the so-called morella is recom- mended—and by leaving the crackedrstones in the pulp, a flavour like that of bitter almonds will-be imparted. To-make syrup of the fruit- juices: prepared as above indicated, our author advises us never to make use of any metallic vessels or.epooris; and always to take best refined loaf-sugar in lumps, five parts of juice ‘to. eight parts of sugar constituting. a. good ‘proportion. "The lumps of sugar are moistened with just enough water to. cause them. to dissolve readily, when the remaining juice. is added, and the whole-is to be rapidly heated to boiling, which, however, must only: be: con- tinued for a few minutes. With good sugar no skimming is necessary, and filtering through flannel or other woollen cloth wetted in water containing a few drops-of sulphuric acid, and well wrung, will make “the syrup perfectly clear. It is best to fill the preserve jar with the syrup when cold, butif it has been done when hot, the vessel must’ be filled up after cooling, as the vapour condenses on the portion of the vessel left empty, and, running down, dilutes the upper stratum of the syrup, and thus makes it more liable to spoil. TAB ( 956 ) TAD T Table Beer, or Small Ale (Dr. Kitchiner’s ,recipe).—To make four eighteen- gallon barrels, or seventy-two gallons, begin at night: have the water boiling by nine o'clock. For the quantity of three bushcls, draw off. into the mash-tub eighteen gallons of boiling water, and let it stand till it comes down to. between 160° and 170° of heat, or till you can see your face well in it; then pour in the malt, having one person to stir it all the time it is pouring in; continue to stir it for five or six minutes; let it stand about half an: hour, then add thirty-three gallons of water from 170° to 190°; cover up at about ten o'clock, and let it stand till six next morning, then draw it off. If the first part is not: quite bright, return it into the mash-tub. When the whole is drawn off, put thirty-three gallons of nearly-boiling water, mash for some minutes, cover it up, and let it stand for one hour. The third mash the same. When the third mash is in the mash- tub, clean the copper, and make it nearly dry, then take the first wort and part of the second (if the copper is sufficiently large), add the hops, and boil for about a quarter of an hour (I reckon from the time it absolutely boils). Draw off one-half, or one-third, according to the quantity, and fill up with the remainder of the wort; let this boil nearly an hour, draw off a part, and continue to fill up till the whole is boiled. This is much less trouble than to make two or three separate boilings. Put your beer to cool as fast as you draw it off from the copper. When you can get it downto 50° or 60°, you may put it together: the mash-tub having been cleared of the grains, and well washed, will make a good working tun. Let it- stand till you find it about 60° or 65°, when: you may add the yeast. About a quart of good fresh yeast will be sufficient; if not quite fresh, three pints. The best way to add the yeast is to put it into a wooden bowl, and stir it well with a whisk; add, as you stir it, about a handful of flour: let some of the yeast from the bowl run over into the beer, and let-it swim quite full. Cover up; keep the room from 50° to 60°. ‘When the head begins to fall, which may be from twenty-four to even sixty hours, skim off the yeast, stir it well, add about a double hand- ful of salt with a little flour before you stir it up, and then barrel. It will work.in the barrels from two to ten days, according to the weather and other circumstances. As it works the barrels must be filled up twice a day with some of the beer you have left, or if you are short in your brewing from any you have in tap. _ When it-has nearly done working, which you may know from the yeast appearing wet or frothy, add two or three handfuls. of the old hops to each barrel; stir them well, and let them stand for about twelve hours; bung down, and in about twelve or fifteen days you ought to have beer as bright as wine. The hops should be soaked the night before in three or four gallons of cold water, and the sugar melted in an iron saucepan and put into the copper about a quarter of an hour before you draw it off. It is customary with somo to make one sort of beer only—if you make ale and table beer you generally rob one or the other. Five bushels of malt and ten or twelve pounds of sugar will make seventy-two gallons of excellent ale: about one pound of hops to each bushel of malt is the usual quantity; but for beer to be kept during the summer half a pound to the bushel will not be found too much. ‘Table Beer (another way). —On three bushels of malt pour thirteen gallons of hot water. Cover it up for half an hour, then mash; let it stand two hours and a half, and then draw off the liquor. Again add to the malt another thirteen gallons of water, and pro- ceed as before. A final mashing with a third thirteen gallons of hot water will complete this _part of the operation. Now take a pound and a half of hops, and let them boil an hour with about a pailful.of wort obtained as above, Strain off-the liquid, and add to the rest. Whe& sufficiently cool add about one quart of yeast. Now place the wort in the fermenting tun; when it has ceased to work, cover the bunghole oe ‘paper for three days, then bung. down close. Tablet, Cinnamon Tablet). Tablets, Sugar, Flavoured.—Clarify a pound of sugar. To do this, break it up into small pieces, and pour over it a quarter of a pint of water which has been beaten up with a tea-spoonful of white of egg. Let it stand until the sugar is dissolved, then put it on the fire; and when it boils throw in another quarter of a pint of water, and let it boil up again without ‘stirring. Draw the pan to. the side of the fire, let the syrup settle, and carefully remove the scum. In order to avoid waste, put this‘scum upon an inverted sieve; a small portion’of clear syrup will-drain from it, which may be put with the rest. Flavour the syrup with three drops of oil of cinnamon, the grated peel of two lemons, or a quarter of an ounce of ground ginger.’ Return it'to the preserving- pan, and ‘boil it ‘to candy height, or until it rises high in the pan, and has sufficient firmness to make a-thread when taken between the thumb and finger, which have been previously dipped in cold water. Pour it on a large flat dish or well-oiled slab, and mark it quickly into squares, into which it may be broken when cold.’ If liked, essence of peppermint, or essence of cloves may be used for flavouring. Tadcaster Pudding. — Shred eight ounces of suet very finely, and mix it with a pound of flour; or, if preferred, rub six ounces of butter or good beef ‘dripping into a pound of flour. Add a pinch of salt, two heaped tea-spoonfuls of paking-powder, four ounces of well-washed currants, four ounces of: chopped and stoned.raisins, two ounces of moist sugar, and half a nutmeg grated. Mix the dry in- gredients together thoroughly. ~ Dissolve a dessert-spoonful of treacle in about three- quarters of a pint of milk, and ‘stir this into the pudding to make a stiff batter. Pour the (see Cinnamon 4 TAM ( 956 ) TAN mixture jnto a thickly-buttered baking-dish, and let it be from two to three inches in thick- ness. Bake in a moderate oven. When the pudding is done enough, let it stand for a couple of minutes, then turn it out on a hot dish. T'ime to bake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. 1d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Tamara, Italian.—Take one ounce of coriander-seed, one ounce of cinnamon, one ounce of cloves, half an ounce of fennel-seed, half an ounce of aniseed; beat these ingredients to a powder, and use in the same way as curry powder. Tamarind.—tThis is the fruit—or rather the pod—of a tree indigenous to the East and ‘West Indies. It thrives also in Egypt, Arabia, and Palestine. In these countries it is some- times used as an article of food in the form of confectionery, and it is highly thought of on account of its pleasant acid taste and cooling properties. The pod consists of two parts: the outer is fleshy, and the inner as thin as parch- ment. “Between these two there is a space of about a quarter of an inch, which is occupied by a soft pulp of a tart but agreeable taste. The pods are gathered when quite ripe, freed from the shelly fragments, and placed in « cask in layers; boiling syrup is then poured over them till the cask is full. The syrup pervades every TAMARINDS, part, even to the bottom. When cold the casks are headed down and sent to market. The more refined mode of preparation, however, is to clarify the juice of the fruit with the white of | egg, and form it with sugar into a clear, trans- parent syrup: this and the fruit supplies an agreeable and cooling beverage. Tamarind-juice.—Mix a quarter of a pint of tamarind-juice with half a pint of cold spring water. This will make a refreshing drink in hot weather or for a sick person. Tamis.—A tamis is a worsted cloth made on purpose for straining sauces. The best way of using it (says Dr. Kitchiner) is for two people to twist it contrary ways. This is a better way of straining sauce than passing it through a sieve, and refines it much more completely. Tangerine Oranges, Frosted.—Divide some tangerine oranges into quarters. Have ready, some thin wooden skewers four or five inches long, a skewer for each piece of orange, and put them in the point of each quarter of orange about half-way through. ‘Lay one end of the skewers upon a sieve so that the fruit can hang outside without touching anything, and let it dry for two or three hours. Make an. icing by boiling a pound of sugar with a pint of water to a clear syrup, and when it is smooth and clear add a little of the juice and grated rind of the orange to flavour it agreeably. ‘When the sugar rises like large beads in the pan, take a little quickly from the top with the finger, and plunge it at once into cold water. If it comes easily off the finger the sugar is ready for use, and must not be boiled longer, or it will be discoloured. Dip the pieces of oranges in the icing, and afterwards let them drain from the sieve until cold. Remove the skewers, and serve the iced fruit in a compéte- dish. Time, about three hours. Sufficient, six oranges for a moderate-sized dish. Tankard Cup.—Make a slice of toast, put it in a large goblet, and grate over it the eighth of a nutmeg. Add two inches of thin lemon-rind, and_squeeze upon it the juice of half a lemon. Mix a pint of mild ale with a table-spoonful of brandy, a table-spoonful of white wine, and a table-spoonful of capillaire. Pour the mixture over the toast, and it will be ready to serve. A sprig of mint or borage may be put into the mixture for a minute, or not. Tansy, Apple (see Apple Tansy). Tansy Pudding. — This is an old- fashioned dish seldom to be met with at modern tables. Pound a handful of green tansy with three or four young spinach-leaves, and squeeze out the juice. Pour « pint of boiling milk over a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, and let it stand until cool. Add two ounces of butter, a glassful of brandy, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, the juice of half a lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of the tansy-' juice. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, then add four well-beaten eggs. Pour the pudding into a buttered dish, and bake in a well- heated oven. Serve very hot, and sift pow- dered sugar thickly over the top of the pudding. A superior tansy pudding may be made by flavouring the milk with pounded almonds, and lining the edges of the dish with puff paste before putting in the mixture. At old- fashioned tables the ordinary batter pudding may occasionally be seen colouved and flavoured with tansy-juice. Tansy-leaves have a peculiar bitter taste, and are said to act as a tonic. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 8d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for three or four persons. Tansy Pudding (another way).—Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of Jordan al- monds ; put them into a stewpan, add a gill of the syrup of roses, the crumb of a French roll, some grated nutmeg, half a glassful of brandy, TAP ( 957 ) TAP ‘two table-spoonfuls of tansy-juice, three ounces of fresh butter, and some slices of citron., Pour over it a pint and a half of boiling cream or milk, sweeten, and when cold mix it; add the juice of a lemon and eight eggs beaten. It may be either boiled or baked. Tapioca.—Tapioca is procured from a plant which grows in British Guiana, and is known to botanists by the name of Jatropha, or Manihot Janipha. The tapioca is procured from the root of the plant which, oddly enough, contains hydrocyanic acid; and it is said that the native Indians poison their arrows from the juice of the root before they begin preparing the tapioca. The native cassava is also prepared from the same plant. Tapioca is a wholesome and nutritious farinaceous food very easy of di- gestion. It is used for puddings, for thicken- ing soups and sauces, and it is also simply boiled in milk or water as a food for invalids. When mixed with other flour it will make very good bread. It should be bought of a respect- able dealer, as a spurious kind is sometimes offered for sale made of gum and potato-flour. The jar in the store-cupboard which contains tapioca should be kept closely covered, or in- sects will get into it. / i i | TAPIOCA, Tapioca and Apple Pudding.— Wash a tea-cupful of tapioca, and soak it for an hour in a quart of cold water. Put it into a sauce- pan, set it on the fire, let it boil, then simmer it gently until it is smooth and clear, stirring it frequently to keep it from getting into lumps. Half fill a moderate-sized pie-dish with cooking apples, pared, cored, and cut into thin slices. Bake these in a moderate oven until they are slightly softened, then sweeten the tapioca, flavour it in any way that may be agree- able, and pour it over the fruit. Bake the pudding until the apples have fallen. Any other fruit may be substituted for apples, such as strawberries, red currants, raspberries, &c. The pudding may be served hot, or in summer- time may be made with fresh fruit, turned out in a mould, and when cold eaten with milk or cream. Time, about one hour to bake the pudding. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tapioca and Tomatoes.—Soak a table- spoontul of tapioca in water for a couple of hours, set it to boil, adding a little more water till quite done to the consistency of porridge. Add pepper, salt, and a little fresh butter. Cut two tomatoes in half, remove pips and watery substance, sprinkle with a little pepper and salt. Fill each half-tomato with the tapioca, sprinkle the top with grated parmesan and baked bread-crumbs, put them into the oven for twenty minutes, and serve. Tapioca Cake.—Tapioca is an article that swells very much, and which requires a long time to be done thoroughly. If you boil it over too brisk a fire, it will become tough; if over a very slow fire, it will be as mellow as marrow, and then it is extremely pleasant to the palate. Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk with a little sugar and very little salt. Then add the peel of half a lemon; but if the taste of orange-flowers, roses, or vanilla, &c., should be more agreeable, use them in preference, ac- cording to taste. Put a quarter of a pound of tapioca into the cream, and let it boil over a very slow fire; when it is done throw in a piece of butter, and break the yolks of six eggs, which beat up with it, gnd let them do over the stove. ‘When you send up the first course, beat the whites of the eggs, pour them gently over the rest, and set the whole in a moderate oven. If you wish to make a cake, sprinkle a mould twice over with clarified butter and crumbs of bread: mix with the preparation some dried cherries and currants, and proceed as you would do for a souffié. When done turn the mould upside- down in a dish, and send up hot Tapioca Custard.— Wash two table- spoontuls of tapioca, and boil it gently in a pint of milk until it is quite soft, stirring it frequently to keep it from getting into lumps. Add a piece of butter the size of a walnut and two table-spoonfuls of sugar, and when these are thoroughly mixed draw the savcepan on one side that the preparation may cool a little. Beat four fresh eggs in a bowl, mix gradually with them part of the tapioca, then pour them into the remainder in the saucepan, and stir all over the fire until the custard is on the point of boiling. Turn it out, flavour with vanilla, ratafia, almond, or any other flavouring, and when it is cold put it into a glass-dish. Just before serving, crush an ounce of macaroons to powder, and sprinkle them over the surface, or if preferred sift a little powdered cinnamon over the top. Time to simmer the tapioca, about two hours. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Tapioca for Invalids.—Wash a table- spoonful of tapioca, and soak it in a pint of water or milk and water for half an hour. Let it boil, then simmer it gently until it is quite clear, and stir it frequently to keep it from getting into lumps. Sweeten it slightly, and flavour with brandy or wine if agreeable, if not, with cinnamon or orange or lemon-rind. If it is too thick adda little more water. Veal, mutton, or chicken broth may be substituted TAP ( 968 ) TAR for the water or milk and water. Time to simmer, about three-quarters of an.hour. Suf- ficient for one invalid. -Tapioca, Gratiné.—Drop ten ounces of tapioca into a stewpan with a quart of boiling milk. Add a slice of butter, a pinch of salt, sugar to taste, and the grated rind of a lemon. Boil, then simmer very gently, stirring all the time till tender. Pour the tapioca, out, and when cool mix four eggs with it. If the eggs are added when the mixture is too hot it will eurdle. Turn into a plain mould, which has been buttered and lined with. bread-crumbs, Bake in a gentle oven till brown on the top. Turn out and serve. Tapioca is an excellent and wholesome production, and very useful in families: it may be used in any sort of entremets, such as giteau de tapioca, soufié, pudding, pot- age, &c,, prepared in the same manner as rice, Tapioca Jelly.—Wash a quarter of a’ pound of tapioca, and soak it in a pint of water ‘for some hours. Put it into a saucepan over the fire with another pint of cold water and the thin rind of a lemon or an _ orange, and let it simmer gently until quite clear and thick, and keep adding at intervals small quantities of boiling water to make up half a pint. Remove the lemon-rind, pour out the tapioca, sweeten it, add as much lemon-juice as is agreeable, and a little brandy or wine if liked. Pour the prepared tapioca into small damp moulds, and turn it out when cold and stiff. Tapioca jelly is very good eaten with preserved fruit and cream or milk. Time to simmer, about one hour. Probable cost, 5d., exclusive of the wine or brandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tapioca Jelly (another way).—Take one pound of tapioca and six pints of water. Let the tapioca soak in the water all night; in the morning boil until quite clear and of a proper consistence, then flavour to taste. | Tapioca Pudding, Baked. — Wash four table-spoonfuls of tapioca in water, then let it boil with-a quart of milk and the thin rind of a lemon or an orange, or an inch of cinnamon, Pour it into a basin, let it get cold, sweeten it, and take out the peel. Beat it up with three eggs and an ounce of butter. Pour it into a buttered dish, and bake the pudding in a well-heated oven. may be lined with puff paste or not. Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tapioca Pudding, Boiled.—Wash two table-spoonfuls of tapioca, and let it soak in a pint of milk for an hour. Put it into a sauce-. pan with an ounce of butter, a table-spoonful of sugar, and the thin rind of a lemon or an orange, or any flavouring that may be preferred. Let it boil, then stir it over a gentle fire for a quarter of an hour. Pour it out, remove the rind, and let the tapioca cool. Stir in with it the yolks of four and the whites of two well-beaten eggs. Pour the pudding into a buttered mould, and boil or steam it until done enough. Let it stand in the mould for some minutes after it is taken up before turning it The edge of the dish. out. It will be necessary to handle it very carefully, or it will break. Sift powdered sugar thickly over it,,and send a dish of cream to table with it. The appearance of the pud- ding will be improved if it 1s garnished with any kind of bright-coloured jelly or jam. Time to boil, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 1g. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. — Tapioca Pudding, French. — Take two ounces of tapioca, and boil it in half a pint of water until it begins to melt, then add half a pint of milk by degrees,.and boil until the tapioea becomes very thick;: add a well-beaten egg, sugar, and flavouring to' taste, and- bake gently for three-quarters of an hour. This preparation of tapioca is superior to any other, is nourishing, and suitable for delicate children... Tapioca Pudding, Simple. — Wash and drain a tea-cupful ‘of tapioca, and put it into a buttered baking-dish Jarge enough to hold about three pints. Sprinkle over it a table-spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a little nutmeg, cinnamon, or lemon-peel, and fill the dish with cold milk. Put in a piece of butter the size of a small nut, and bake the pudding in a moderate oven. When the sur- face of the pudding is covered with a brightly- browned skin it is done enough. Send sugar to table with the pudding. Time to bake, about two hours. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Tapioca Soup.—tTake as much properly- seasoned clear cold stock as may be required, and put it into the stewpan with an ounce of well-washed tapioca to each pint of stock. Bring the preparation ‘gradually to the point of boiling, then simmer it gently until tender, and stir it frequently to keep it from getting into lumps. A white soup may be made by using veal stock, and adding a little boiling cream or milk to the soup just before serving. Time to simmer the tapioca, an hour or more from the time the soup boils. Probable cost, varying with the quality of the stock. Suf- ficient, a quart of soup for four or five persons. Tapioca Soup (another way).— Large- grained tapioca is the best for soup. Take as much tapioca as may be required, and soak it in cold water for a quarter of an hour. Drain it, and put it into a stewpan with as much cold stock as will cover it; let it boil, and after- wards simmer it gently until it is quite clear and tender. Stir the rest of the stock, already flavoured, into it, let it boil up, and serve immediately. ‘Time to simmer the tapioca, from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Suf- ficient—an ounce of tapioca will thicken a pint of soup. Taro.—This is the South Sea Islanders’ “staff of life” The taro plant is a species of arum, called by some botanists Arum esculentum though this is a vague distinction, since there are others ot this genus that produce edible roots. It is in its large tuberous root that the value of the taro lies: this root varies in size, according to the ground in which it grows. It is usually of several pounds’ weight, though some roots are so large as with difficulty to be squeezed into a three-quart pot. In shape thé TAR | (989 ) TAR taro root is something like an oblong turnip or beetroot, terminating abruptly, as if the smaller end had been cut off. Tho taro roots when raw are poisonous, and they are prepared for eating by two distinct processes. One is by the ordinary method of boiling as potatoes are boiled, with the addition of salt thrown into the water. After being boiled, the root, now pos- sessing a fine white mealy appearance, is eaten as a yam or sweet potato. The more general. practice, however, is to mash or pulverise the taro into a floury substance, and afterwards, mixing it with water, make batter cakes of it, to be frittered in lard. When thus prepared, the taro may be easily mistaken for pancakes made of the best flour. ney end ‘ib Tarragon Sauce for Boiled Fowls. —Take a small bunch of tarragon, and put it into a saucepan with a pint of nicely-seasoned white stock and the white of an egg which has | been beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of cold water and a table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Whisk all thoroughly over the fire until the broth boils, then draw it to, the side, let it simmer Cad for a quarter of an hour, and afterwards let it stand to settle for another quarter of an hour. Strain through a jelly- bag, and when clear, reduce the sauce by quick boiling until it is rich and, good. Time, a quarter of an hour to boil, and a quarter of an hour to setile. : Tarragon Vinegar for Salads and various Sauces.—Gather the tarragon on a dry day, just before the plant begins to bloom. This will be late in July, or in the early part of August. Pick the leaves from the stalks, and with them fill wide-mouthed glass bottles up to the neck, and in doing.so bruise the leaves slightly that their flavour may, more easily escape. Cover with best vinegay,.tie bladder over the mouths of the bottles, and then let the leaves infuse six weeks or two months. Pour off the liquid, strain through muslin till it is quite clear, put it into small bottles, and_cork down securely. Store in a dry place. Time, about two months. Tarragon Vinegar (another way).—Sce Elder-flower and Tarragon Vinegar. Tart, Fruit (English way).—Spread some puff paste over the table with a rolling-pin ; cut a piece the size of the dish, and out of the trim- mings cut some strips; brush the edge of the dish with dorure, and stick the strips on it: then put the fruit into the dish with some sugar and a little water ; roll the paste on the rolling-pin, and lay it over the fruit. Before you put the paste on, brush the strips with some dorure (egg- wash, or water) to make it stick. When you have trimmed the dish all round, brush some white of egg over the tart, and sift some sugar over it: then dip the paste-brush into water, and shake it over the tart. Bake it properly, and serve up cold. Apples, however, are an exception, as they are better hot. Instead of brushing the tart with white of egg only, you may use yolk and white beaten together, which is called ‘dorure, and should be borne in mind. ‘When this has been done, take a small knife ‘and ornament the paste with figures according to your fancy; then put the tart in the oven, and if it begins to have too much colour cover it with paper. Wherf done, spread over it some fine sugar through a sieve, replace it in the oven to dry the sugar, and with the red salamander glaze the tart of a bright colour. ‘You must prepare all kinds of fruit in the same way: uso sometimes the paste for tarts, but in that case no strips are absolutely necessary. Tart, My Lady’s.—Make a little pastry: with six ounces of flour, a pinch of salt, three ouncés of fresh butter, and as much cold water or milk as will make a smooth firm paste. Roll it out lightly two or three times, and the last time roll it to the thickness of a little less than an inch. Stamp it out with a fluted cutter the size of the dish in which it is to be served, and lay it on a floured baking-tin. Roll the trim- mings of the pastry to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and stamp this out in rounds the size of the flutings of the larger cutter. Moisten the edges slightly, lay the rounds upon the border of the tart, and press them upon the inner side, so that the outer edge may have a flaky appearance. Lastly, make a circular incision a quarter of an inch deep almost close to the border, and bake the tart in a moderate oven. When it is done enough take out the part which has been marked with a sharp knife, carefully scrape away the soft crummy centre, and fill the tart with good jam of any kind, or with oysters or lobsters prepared as for a vol-au-vent. Put the tart into the oven again for a minute, and serve it hot or cold. It may be ornamented according to fancy. If filled with sweetmeat, a few blanched and sliced almonds may be strewn over it, or the rounds of the border may be glazed with beaten egg. At Christmas-time the tart may be filled with hot mincemeat instead of jam. Time to bake, twenty-five to thirty minutes. Probable cost, exclusive of the interior, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tart with Sugar tome te appear- ance of tarts made in the ordinary way, and with all kinds of fruit, isvery much improved by icing them. In order to do this proceed as follows :—Line the edges of the dish with good crust, fill it with fruit and a little sugar, lay ‘on the cover, press down the edges, and trim them neatly. Make a small nole at each side for the steam to escape, then before putting the tart in the oven, brush it over with cold water, and sift white sugar thickly upon it. Or, when the tart is nearly baked, take it out, brush it over with white of egg whisked to froth; sift white sugar on this and sprinkle a little water on the top. If necessary, Jay a sheet of writing-paper over it to keep it from acquiring too much colour. Time to bake, half an hour for a moderate-sized tart, ; Tartar Mustard.—Put a table-spoonful of the best Durham mustard into a cup with a pinch of salt and a pinch of cayenne, and rib it down to a smooth paste, using horse- radish vinegar instead of water. Be careful to mix no more than will be required for one TAR day’s use, as the preparation is better when freshly made. * Tartar Sauce.—Put the yolk of an egg quite free from white into a basin, and beat it for'a minute or two with a pinch of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a table-spoonful of dry mustard. Stir into this, first in drops and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, four table-spoonfuls of pure salad oil, and be careful to beat the sauce for a minute or two between every addition, as its excellence depends in a great measure upon this being done. After each six tea-spoonfuls of oil put in a tea-spoonful of vinegar. Wash and mince finely three shallots, six small gherkins, and a table-spoonful of mixed chervil and tarragon. Put these into the sauce with a pinch of cayenne. Mix thoroughly, and serve. If the sauce is not immediately wanted, it should be kept in a cool place. Time to mix the sauce, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tartar Sauce (another way). Wash and mince finely four shallots. Put them intoa mor- tar with a tea-spoonful of chopped tarragon or chervil (or both), a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, and the hard-boiled yolks of two eggs. Pound these ingredients until quite smooth. Put them into a bowl, and mix with them very gradually three table-spoonfuls of pure salad- oil. The oil should be put in first in drops, and afterwards in tea-spoonfuls, and the sauce should be well beaten between each addition. If this point is carefully attended to, there will ( 960 ) be no danger of the sauce curdling. When the oil is thoroughly incorporated, add three dessert-spoonfuls of ‘best vinegar and one of , chilli vinegar. Serve in a tureen. | Tartlet-tins (see illustration accompany- | ing the article on Almond Cheesecakes). ar Tartlets. — Tartlets may be made with puff paste, almond paste, or any sweet pastry. ‘They are made as follows :—Butter some patty- pans, and line them with pastry rolled out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch. Tritn them neatly, put a little crust of bread into each tartlet—or what will answer the same purpose, which is to keep the pastry from puff- ing up in the centre—prick two or three holes in the bottom of the tart: bake in a quick oven. When they are two-thirds baked, take the tartlets out of the oven, remove the bread, and in its place put a spoonful of jam or mar- malade. Return them to the oven, and bake until done enough. Let them get cold hefore serving, ornament prettily, and send them to table piled high on a dish covered with a white napkin. Some cooks put the jam into the tartlet before it is baked at all, but this spoils both the taste and the appearance. Time to bake the tartlets, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, about 1d. each. Sufficient, half a pound of pastry will make a moderate-sized dish of tartlets. Tartlets (another way).—Roll out the pastry to the thickness of a quarter of an inch Stamp it out in an even number of rounds of TAR uniform size, and make half of.these into rings by pressing a small cutter quite through the centre of them. Moisten the edges of the rounds, place the rings upon them, and press them tightly together. Put the tartlets on a baking-tin, and bake them in a well-heated oven. As soon as they are done enough, take them out of the oven, and before they are cool fill them with jam or marmalade. Lay a pastry ornament or a spoonful of whipped cream on the top, and they are ready for serving. Time to bake, about twelve minutes. Probable cost, 1d. each. Tartlets, Orange.—Make some rich puff paste, with which line some mince-pie tins. Put some orange marmalade into each, and squeeze fresh Seville orange-juice over them. Bake for a quarter of an hour, and strew pounded sugar over. The tartlets are good hot or cold. Tartlets, Pastry Cream for Gar- nishing (see Pastry Cream). Tartlets, To Ornament. — The usual way of ornamenting tartlets is to lay upon them pastry leaves, flowers, or other devices. These may be made of the trimmings of the pastry, and should be baked separately in a slow oven. Sometimes a tea-spoontful of whipped cream is substituted for the pastry. Ornaments for tartlets are made also of almond pastry prepared as follows:—Pound and sift two ounces of loaf sugar, and mix with it two ounces of dried flour and an ounce of almonds pounded till smooth. Make this mixture into ‘a stiff paste with the white of an egg well whisked with a table-spoonful of orange-flower water. Beat the paste, and roll it out as thin as possible. Stamp it into leaves, stars, flowers, half-crescents, or any other fancy shapes, and bake these in a slow oven till they are firm without being coloured. When cold they are ready for use. These ornaments may be kept ‘ between sheets of writing-paper in a tin box to be used when wanted. » Tarts.—Recipes for the following tarts will be found under their respective headings :— APPLE, CREAMED Custarp APPLE Damson App_e, EconomIcaL Frencu Pium APPLE, OPEN Fruit, CREAM FoR APPLE, PLAIN Fruit, PresERvED APPLE, Ricu GoosEBERRY APPLe, YounG JAM Apricot, GREEN Jam, Oprn Buack Currant JELLY Cusrarp CHERRY Lemon CHOCOLATE Litriz Lavres’ CRANBERRY Monitors’ CREAM * Pasre, Suort, FOR Crust ror Fruit Currant AND Rasp- BERRY Pastz, TRansPARENT, Pium [ror Rasrserry Tarts, Icing for.—Beat the whites of two eggs to a froth, and when the tart is nearly done cover the crust by means of a paste-brush with some of the white, then sprinkle over it some finely-powdered loaf sugar. Wash the TAR ( 961 ) TEA brush, and splash the sugar very gently with water until it is dissolved. Put the tart again into the oven for five minutes, Tarts, Paste-for.—Take a pound and a half of flour, a pound and a quarter of fresh butter, a large pinch of salt, four yolks of eggs, and half a glassful of water. Mix this paste as lightly as possible without handling it too much; spread it over the dresser with a rolling-pin, and then fold it in three, as you do puff paste; roll it out, and fold it up again. Do this four times running: this is what is called four-turned. Use this paste either for tourte of entrées, for pies of meat or fruit, or when it may be wanted. (See also Puff Paste.) THE TEA PLANT, Tea.—Doctors disagree as to whether the éonstant use of tea is beneficial or otherwise in its effects upon the human frame. There can be little doubt, however, that when partaken of too freely it acts injuriously upon the nervous system; yet, when taken in moderation, it is exhilarating, strengthening, and refreshing. Tastes differ as to the superiority of the flavour of the different kinds of tea. Some like all black, some all green, and some a mixture of the two. For mixed tea the usual proportion is four parts of black tea to one of green. Green tea ~ is more exhilarating than black, and it has a tendency to produce excitement and wakeful- ness. When taken very strong itis exceedingly pernicious. Amongst the black teas may be mentioned Bohea, Congo, Souchong, Assam, and Pekoe. Amongst the green teas, Twankay, Hyson-skin, Young Hyson, Hyson, Imperial, and Gunpowder. (See Tea, Varieties of.) Some- times two or three kinds of tea are mixed .together—a finely-flavoured one with an in- expensive one—and then cheapness can be combined with superiority of flavour. The following is a favourite and inexpensive mix- ture of black teas:—One pound of Moning Congo, a quarter of a pound of Assam, and a quarter of a pound of Orange Pekoe. Tea and Coffee, Analysis of.—The following analyses of tea and coffee are in- teresting,.as showing how nearly they con- 6l—n.x, tain the same organic constituents, although in different proportions :-— 100 parts 100 parts of Tea con- of Coffee tain contain Water . 4 : & 12 Theine . i $ 3 1:75 Caseine . 15 13 Gum a 18 9 Sugar . . ‘ 3 6.5 Starch . a trace a trace Tannin . é » 26°26 4 Aromaticoil . F 0°75 0-002 Fat A 8 4 12 * Fibre é . 20 35 Mineral substances 5 6°7 Tea Biscuits.—Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter and a large pinch of salt in a pint. of warm milk. Stir this into a pound of flour, and make the paste into a stiff dough by knead- ing it well with a table-spoonful of brewer's yeast. Put the dough into a bowl, cover it with a cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise. When quite light, roll it out very thin, stamp it into fancy shapes, and bake in a moderate oven. ‘Tea biscuits should be eaten cold, and a little butter or marmalade should be sent to table with them. Time to bake, ten to twenty minutes, according to size. Probable cost for this quantity, 8d. Sufficient for a dish. Tea Cakes (see Queen’s Tea Cakes). Tea Cakes, Baker’s, To Toast.—Cut. the tea cake across into three or four slices, according to thickness. Toast and butter these on both sides, and lay them one upon another in a hot dish. Cut them into quarters, and serve as hot as possible. They will retain. their heat much longer if kept in a covered plate over a basin of boiling water. ‘Tea Cakes, Royal.—Take the weight of a large egg in fresh butter. Beat it to a cream, and mix with it four ounces of pounded and sifted loaf sugar, four ounces of best flour, a small pinch of salt, and the grated peel of half a lemon. Beat the egg with a little rose or orange-flower water, and with this knead the mixture to a smooth paste. Roll it out, cut it into small rounds, and bake these upon floured tins in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, fifteen to thirty minutes, according to the size of the cakes. Probable cost, about 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for one or two persons. Tea Cakes, Yorkshire (excellent).— Rub six ounces of butter into two pounds of fine flour; add a pinch of salt, two eggs well beaten, a pint of milk, and an ounce of German yeast. Knead the mixture well, put it into a bowl, cover with a cloth, and set on the hearth to rise. "When it is quite light, and the surface has cracked, divide it into ten cakes, and roll these out lightly to the size of a saucer.. Let them rise before the fire a few minutes, and bake in a quick oven. They must not be turned over in the oven. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. each. Suf-. ficient for six or seven persons. Tea Cakes, Yorkshire, Plain,—Rub one ounce of butter and one ounce and a half of lard into two pounds of the best flour. Mix rather less than an ounce of German yeast with TEA ( 962 ) TEA half a pint of warm water. Scoop: a hollowiin the centre of the flour, and pour the dissolved yeast into it. Mix a little of the flour with this to make a thin batter; and place the bowl before the fire for an hour that the yeast may rise. Beat an egg thoroughly with two table- spoonfuls of warm milk. Stir this into the batter, add a salt-spoonful of salt, and knead all thoroughly together, adding as much warm milk as is required to make a smooth dough. Gash the surface lightly with a knife, cover the bowl which contains it ‘with a cloth, and let the dough rise until it is quite light. Divideit into ten pieces, and roll these into cakes the size of a saucer. Prick these with a fork, put them on a baking-tin before the fire for a few minutes to rise, and bake them lightly in.a well-heated oven.. They must on no account be turned over in baking. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost; 1d. or 14d. each. Sutf-'| ficient for ten cakes.’ ~ Tea Cakes, Yorkshire, To Serve.— No Yorkshire tea-table would be regarded as properly furnished unless it boasted a goodly. show of hot and cold tea cakes. "When served cold, the tea cakes are simply cut into fingers, buttered liberally, and piled. crosswise upofi a plate. When served hot, they are heated in the oven, cut through the centre, spread with, plenty of fresh butter, cut into quarters, restored to their original shape, and served as hot as possible. Or they may be cut through the centre, toasted, buttered liberally, and served very hot. They should be sent in one or two at a time, as they will spoil if allowed-to stand. Tea, Choosing and Keeping of.— Tea should: be chosen by the agreeabieness of its odour, and as whole as possible, so that its leaf may be easily examined. In keeping it the greatest care should be taken not to expose it to the air, which destroys the flavour. Tea, Cold.—The value of cold tea as a beverage is not sufficiently known. Literary men and others accustomed to a sedentary occu- pation would find one or two cups of cold tea taken without either milk or sugar to be as stimulating as the same quantity of sherry, whilst there would be no fear of the drowsiness or diminution of the working power which might arise from imbibing either wine or spirit. The taste for cold: tea is an easily-acquired one, and worth cultivating by those who require an oacasional and harmless stimulant. Tea, Consolidated.—Extracts, essences, and concentrated essences are to be met with in a hundred shapes, and amongst recent in- ventions we have consolidated tea. This pro- duction is made up in neat little tablets, each divided into so many different: portions, thus showing at a glance the exact quantity required for use. As the tea will preserve its properties under any change of climate, and is much less in bulk than that in ordinary use, it is likely to be held in high favour. by travellers and officers of the army and navy. Tea Cream.—Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk, into which throw a little salt and some sugar—the latter must, however, predominate. When the cream boils, throw two. or three spoonfuls of good green tea into.{ it, put in ten yolks of very fresh eggs, and - proceed as usual upon. the fire till the cream , becomes thick, then put in, the isinglass, &c., pass it through a tamis, and put it in the. mould, and then to the ice. If your, mould is small, eight eggs are sufficient. 7 Tea, Herb.—The following proportions are recommended by a well-known herbalist: —Agtimony, balm, tormentil, wild marjoram, of each one ounce; red roses, cowslip flowers, black-currant leaves, of each a quarter of an ounce. Cut small and mix. ‘A heaped table- spoonful is, enough for two persons, made as China tea, with sugar “and cream, or milk if approved. The following substitute for tea is also recommended :—Hawthorn leaves dried, ten parts; sage and balm, one part. Mix well together, and use as above. Tea Made Overnight.—When tea is wanted for a very early breakfast, make it overnight, and pour it away from the tea-leaves ‘before it gets cold. If this is done one need not fear that it will taste bitter, as cold tea generally does when it is warmed up, for it acquires this taste with long standing on the tea-leaves. In the morning it will simply need to be warmed until it is sufficiently hot to drink: —that is, until it has reached a temperature of 140° Fahr., or nine degrees above an average night temperature of 50°; whereas if the tea chad to be freshly made it would be necessary to bring the water to boiling point—that is, to 212°, and this would take some minutes longer. Tea, Spirituous Syrup of.—Pour a quarter of a pint of boiling water on three ounces (avoirdupois weight) of fine young hyson. Let it stand an hour, then add to it a pint of brandy or proof spirit; let it steep for ten days, shaking it up every day; strain it,g and sweeten with clarified syrup. A spoonful or two ef this in a tumbler of water is a very | refreshing beverage. Tea, To Make.—A silver or metal+eapot is better than an earthenware. one for drawing out the flavour and strength of the tea. The amount of tea used. must depend upon the quantity required. The old-fashioned allowance is a very sensible one, that is, one large tea- spoonful for each of the company, and one for the teapot. Before making the tea, pour half a pint : of boiling water into the teapot, and let it stand | for two minutes. Pour it out, and immediately put in the tea. Close the lid, and let it remain for a minute to heat, then pour upon it half a pint of boiling water. Let it stand for three minutes, add ‘sufficient boiling water to fill the teapot, and the tea will be ready for.use. Be caroful not to drain all the liquor from the pot so long as it is necessary to continue to add boiling water, or the tea will be very weak; and. if it is desirable to add a little fresh tea, let it be brewed separately in a teacup before it is added to that which is already made, as its strength will not be drawn out if it is put upon the old’ leaves. Perhaps it is unnecessary to say that unless the water is really boiling when it is put upon the tea there will be no good tea. ' * Unless the kettle boiling be, Filling the teapot spoile the tea.” ’ TEA ( 968 ) TEA Green tea requires to stand a minute or two. longer than black tea. Trea, To make (Debuisson’s method).— Put the tea into a kettle with cold ‘water. Cover it close, set it on the fire, and make it very nearly but not quite boil; then take it from the fire. When the leaves sink it is ready. & ‘ Tea, To Make (Dr. Trusler’s method).— This was to make a very strong infusion by pouring boiling water upon the tea, and let it stand twenty minutes, putting into each cup no more than was necessary to fill it about one- third full; then each cup was filled with hot water from an urn or kettle: thus the tea was always hot and equally strong to the end. Tea, Varieties of.—These are very nu- merous. The following are those chiefly met with in the shops of Great Britain :— . . Green TEAs.—Chinese (1): Gunpowder sorts, viz., Shanghai, Ping-Suey or _pin’s-head, Moyune, Imperial Moyune, and Canton; (2), Hyson sorts, viz., Shanghai, Shanghai young, Moyune, Moyune young, Canton young, and Twankay or Imperial Hyson. Japanese: Gun- powder and Young Hyson. Java: Gunpowder. Brack Tgas.— Chinese (1): Congo sorts, viz., Canton, Foo-chow-foo, Hung-muey, Oopack, Kaisow, and Oonam; (2), Pekoe sorts, viz., plain Orange, Foo-chow, scented Orange, Can- ton scented Orange, flowery Pekoe, Oolong, and Souchong. Assam: Congo, Orange-pekoe and Souchong. Java: Congo and Imperial. The latter sort is made up in small balls about as big as a pea, and is rather rare. Tea, Weak Green (a refreshing bever- age).—Weak green tea with a little sugar and lemon-juice in it, and no milk, is a most re- freshing drink in cases of fever. It may be taken either cold or hot, but the latter way is to be preferred. Tea, Wholesomeness of,— The fol- lowing remarks on this subject by Dr. Gra- ham are well worthy of attention :—“Tea is well known to have a very marked and irri- tating effect on the nervous system in some persons, and it is drank in this country far too often and too strong. It forms a refreshing anti-spasmodic beverage, but should not be taken either strong or very hot; the addition of milk renders it more wholesome, that of sugar less so. Individuals of a rigid and solid fibre are more benefited by it than those of an opposite habit; but no one should take more than two tea-cupfuls morning and evening. I cannot think it equal to cocoa or thin chocolate for common use; and it is very probable that some of our indigenous plants would yield a more wholesome and equally as palatable an infusion as the tea-leaf of China. With ‘some persons no kind of China tea agrees, and then an infusion of agrimony or some other native plant should be substituted for it.’' I may state on very respectable authority that the’ first leaves of whortleberry, properly gathered and dried in the shade, cannot be distinguished from real teas. Sage (the Tomentosa or Balsamic Sage) and. Balm ‘(Melissa Hortensis or Garden Balm) are likewise excellent substitutes for tea, more especially in the case of debility in the stomach and nervous system. It is certain that all green.tea is exceedingly pernicious, having .2 strong tendency to injuro the stomach and bowels and the whole nervous jsystem.. Medi- cinally, tea is of much service in typhus and bilious fevers, cramp of the stomach, flatulency, and to relieve the sensations of oppression and . weight at the pit of the.stomach so frequently accompanying indigestion and bilious .com- plaints. It is, however, worthy of particular notice from the dyspeptic, that few things will injure him more than immoderate indulgence in this or any other warm slop. “Tea being an article of daily and universal consumption, I would beg the reader’s attention to the following rules in using it:—1. Care. fully avoid the high-priced and high-flavoured teas—more especially if green—which gene- rally owe their favour to pernicious ingredients, . and abound most with those active principles . whence the ‘noxious effects of the article arise. 2. Take with it a good proportion of milk, as a corrective to any’ possible noxious qualities present. 3. Let the quantity of tea used at each’ infusion be very moderate. 4. Make the infusion properly, with water soft and other- wise of a good quality, and in a boiling state. 5. Tea is a beverage better adapted for the evening than the morning, and therefore less of it should be taken at the latter than the former period. The first meal we take in the morning to recruit the body, after the loss it has sus- tained during a long fast through the night, ‘and to prepare it for the labours of the succeed- ing hours of the day, should be in some measure substantial, consisting of a large proportion of solid aliment. Indeed, except when drank soon after a hearty dinner, bread and biscuit should -always be taken with tea.” On .the good results following from tea- drinking there is also something to be said: “ Physicians now consider that the theine and aromatic oil of tea not only act as sedatives generally on the nervous system, but also exert a conservative action on the different structures of the body, checking any disposition to too rapid a change in them, and consequent ex- haustion. Not only so; but as the daily re- moval of worn-out materials from the body, through the kidneys and other channels, is essential to health, tea and coffee are regarded as helpful to this process, when taken in moderate quantities. Tea likewise contains potash, peroxide of iron, soda, and several other salts which are most important to the human system. Liebig, the German chemist, says, ‘We have, therefore, in tea a beverage which contains the active constituents of the most powerful mineral springs.’ ”’ Teal.—The flesh of this beautiful and delicate little water-fowl is highly prized. It is considered to be better flavoured after the frost has set in, and is in season from the end of September to February. It may be served according to any.of the recipes given for wild duck, though less timo will be required to cook it. Teal, Filleted.—A handsome dish may be made by half roasting the birds, then taking them down, dividing them into neat joints, TEA ( 964 ) TEN and stewing these for eight or ten minutes in half a pint of good brown gravy rather highly | eeasoned and flavoured with port or lemon-' juice. When sufficiently dressed the birds: should be neatly dished upon toast, and should have the gravy strained over them. A little. mushroom sauce should be sent to table in a tureen. Three or four birds will be required for this entrée. Time, half an hour. Suf-.| ficient for four or five persons. Teal, Gravy for.—Clean the giblets and put them into a stewpan with a pound of lean beef cut small, or instead of it a tea-spoonful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat, a moderate-sized onion chopped small, half a tea-spoonful of sugar browning, two or three peppercorns, three cloves, a blade of mace, a sprig of parsley, three inches of thin lemon-rind, and a pint and a half of lukewarm water. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently until the gravy is good, then strain and cool it, and skim the fat from the top. Put it back into the saucepan with a dessert-spoonful of mush- room ketchup, a table-spoonful of port, and a little salt. Boil up once more, and serve. Or put half a pint of good gravy into a saucepan with a small onion finely minced and a roll of orange orlemon-peel. Let the sauce boila few minutes, then strain it, season with salt and cayenne, and add the juice of a lemon or Seville orange. Simmer a few minutes longer; - put with it a glassful of port or claret, and send it to table very hot. A sliced lemon without the rind is usually sent to table with roast teal. Teal Pudding.—Take three teal and a pound of tender rump steak. Divide the birds into neat joints, and season them well with salt and cayenne. Cut up the steak into pieces an inch square, season them, and dredge them lightly with flour. Line a shallow, thick-rimmed pudding-basin with good suet pastry rolled ott to the thickness of half an inch, and leave an inch of crust to overlap the edge. Place in the basin a layer of steak and a layer of jointed teal, and repeat until the dish is full. Pour in a quarter of a pint of beef gravy. Moisten the edges of the pastry, lay the cover on the top, press the crusts closely together, and turn over the overlapping pastry that the gravy may not escape. Tie the. pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Take it up, let it stand a few minutes, and either turn it out upon a hot dish, or serve in the basin in which it was boiled, with.a napkin pinned round it. ‘Time to boil, two hours. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Teal, Roasted. — Carefully pluck and draw the birds, and truss them like wild duck. Flour them well, and put them down before a brisk fire. Do not baste them fer the first two or three minutes, as this will help to keep the gravy in; afterwards baste them liberally. ‘When the birds are nicely browned, ‘and the steam draws to the fire, they may be. served. Put them on a hot dish, and serve with a little brown gravy round them: send a little more gravy to table in a tureen. Sprinkle a pinch of cayenne on the breast, and squeeze a little lemon-juice upon it at the moment of serving. Send acut lemon to table with the birds. A very good hash may be made of the remains of teal. Time to roast, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, uncertain, teal being i offered for sale. Sufficient, two for a ish. Teal, Stewed.—Pluck, singe, and empty the birds, and truss them securely. Preserve the hearts, livers, and gizzards. Dredge the teal with flour, put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, let them brown equally all over, and take care of the gravy which comes. from them. Let them get cold, and if con- venient keep them until the next day. Carve them in such a way that the wings and the legs shall be taken off, each with a portion of breast adhering to it. Break the bodies of the birds into small pieces, and stew them gently with the livers, hearts, and gizzards, in as much water or stock as will vover them, till the gravy is quite strong. Strain it, season with salt and cayenne, thicken with a little brown thicken- ing, and add a glassful of claret, and, if liked, a little lemon or Seville orange-juice. As soon as it begins to boil, put into it the fleshy portion of the birds, and let them simmer until they are thoroughly heated, but the gravy must not boil after they are added. Cut slices of stale crumb of bread sufliciently large for a leg and a wing to lie on. Fry these till they are lightly browned, drain them, arrange them on a hot dish, place on each one a leg and a wing, and pour the sauce over them. Garnish with green parsley and sliced lemon. Time, one hour and a half to make the gravy. Sufficient, one teal for two persons. Teetotaller’s Christm i (see Christmas Pudding). ob Ruins Ten to One Pie (see Potato Pie “Ten to One’’). Tench.—The tench is more of a pond’ than a river fish, and is frequently met with in standing waters. It is best for the table when taken from the river. Though a much smaller fish than the carp (for it seldom weighs more TEN ( 965 ) TEN than four or five pounds), yet it resembles the latter fish in its fondness for muddy situations, which imparts an unpleasant flavour to the flesh. In order to free it from this it is often turned for a few days into clear water, and this removes all unpleasantness. Naturally its flesh is much richer and more delicious than that of the carp. It is in season from October to June. TENCH, Tench, Baked.—Clean and scale the tench very carefully, and remove the gills, as they are always muddy. Rub the fish with lemon-juice, and let it lie for an hour; then put it into a tin, sprinkle over it two shallots finely minced,.and pour over it four ounces of clari- fied butter or dripping. Cover with oiled paper, and let it bake gently until done enough. Baste frequently. Serve on «a hot dish, and pour over it a sauce prepared as follows :—Mix a table-spoonful of dried flour smoothly with three ounces of butter, and pour, in a quarter of a pint of boiling water; add gradually the third of a pint of milk or cream. Let the sauce boil up, then stir into it four moderate-sized gherkins finely minced and a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and it will be ready for use. Serve very hot. Time to bake, according to the size and thickness of the fish. Probable cost, un- certain, tench being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for two persons. Tench, Boiled.—Scale, draw, and clean the fish carefully, and remove the gills. Take care of the melt or roc. Lift the back-bone, and rub in a little salt; then lay the tench in cold salted water for an hour or more, and afterwards rinse it in fresh water. Put it into @ saucepan with as much boiling salted water as will cover it, and let it simmer till.done enough. Dish the fish on a napkin, garnish with curled parsley and slices of lemon, and send melted butter or maitre d’hétel sauce to table in a tureen. Time to boil, fifteen to twenty minutes for a moderate-sized tench. Probable cost, uncertain, tench being seldom offered for sale. Tench, Broiled, with Fine Herbs.— ash, clean, and draw three or four tench, and jay them in boiling water for three minutes ; then scale them carefully from head to tail. Lay them on a dish, and sprinkle over them a little pepper and salt, an onion, a finely-minced shallot, a table-spoonful of parsley chopped small, and a pinch of powdered thyme. Pour over the fish as much oil as will cover them, and let them lie for an hour or two. Wrap each fish separately with the herbs, &c., in two thicknesses of writing-paper which has been dipped in the oil in which the fish was placed, and broil over a clear fire. When they are done enough, take off the paper, and serve on a hot dish, pouring piquant sauce over them. Time to broil, five to ten minutes, according to size. Tench, Choosing of.—Barbel are easily mistaken for tench, and are sometimes sold as that fish. It is worth while observing, there- fore, that tench spawn in July, so if any fish be sold for tench in March or April, and proves to be full of spawn, it cannot be tench, but is'‘a cheat upon the purchaser, and must be barbel. Tench is in season all the year, but is most valued in the six winter months. Tench, Fried.—Scale, draw, and clean the fish with great care, and remove the gills. Dry them well, and flour them, then put them into boiling fat, and when they are brown on one side turn them upon the other. Drain them on soft paper before the fire, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish with crisped parsley, and send a little sauce to table with them in a tureen. Time to fry, six to twelve minutes, according to size. Tench, Fried (another way). — After having scaled and emptied the tench, split the back of the fish, but take care not to touch the belly, for if you do it will divide. Let it pickle for three hours in vinegar, salt, pepper, stalks of parsley, and onions. Then drain it, and dip it into flour. Fry of a fine colour and quite firm. The dripping must be very hot. This you try with a drop of water, which, being thrown into the dripping, occasions a noise if it isin a proper state. Send it up to table ona cloth with fried parsley all round; if you have a soft roe, fry it likewise, and serve it in the middle. | -Tench Pie. — Butter a pie-dish rather thickly, and line the edges with a good crust. Put in the tench, season with pepper and salt, and grate a little nutmeg over it. Place small lumps of butter here and there upon it, and pour over it a little claret and water. Cover the dish with crust, and bake the pie in a well- heated oven. Have ready a little nicely-seasoned strong gravy, and when the pie is done enough pour it in through the hole at the top. A good pie may be made with tench and eels. The fish should be cut into convenient-sized pieces, and | placed in layers in the dish with a little pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and an anchovy cut small between each layer. Time to bake, about an hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. Tench, Sauces for.—Tench may be served with melted butter, anchovy sauce, parsley sauce, poulette sauce, or with a white sauco prepared as follows:—Rub a large lump ot butter to a smooth paste with a tea-spoonful of flour. Add a table-spoonful of water, and stir TEN ( 966 ) THI .the mixture over. the fire for two minutes. Pour in a quarter of a pint of thick cream, or, failing cream, use milk. Have a filleted an- chovy finely minced. Stir the sauce over the fire until it is on the point of boiling, add a table-spoonful of Indian soy, pour it into a tureen, stir for a minute or two, put with it a little pepper and salt and a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice. Tench, Stewed.—Take about two pounds of tench; clean, scale, and draw the fish care- fully, and remove the gills. Put six ounces of good dripping or butter into a stewpan with a mushroom chopped small, a sliced carrot, ' finely-minced onion, a turnip, a bunch of pars- , ley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, the thin rind of half a lemon, and two or three cloves. Stir “these over a clear fire for six or eight minutes, then dredge over them a table-spoonful of ‘flour, and pour in half a pint of stock or water and the strained juice of twolemons. Put in the _tench, and let it boil, then add half a tumbler- ful of claret, table-spoonful of Worcester sauce, a little salt, and a pinch of cayenne. ‘Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer very gently until done enough. Take the fish up, place it on a, hot ‘ dish, and put it in the oven until the sauce is ready. Strain the sauce, skim carefully, pour _it over the fish, and serve immediately with some toasted sippets, the roe fried, a little horseradish, and lemon. Time to simmer, half an hour. Probable cost, uncertain, tench being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for two or three persons. Tench, Stewed | (another way).— Take three or four moderate-sized tench; clean, scale, and draw them, and cut them into convenient- ‘ sized pieces. Put them ina stewpan with three or four large mushrooms chopped small, a dozen button onions, a blade of mace, two anchovies, a shallot, a tea-spoonful of mixed parsley, a pinch of thyme, and a little pepper and salt. Pour over them as much nicely- flavoured stock as will cover them, add a glass- ful of port or claret, and simmer the fish gently for half an hour. ‘Open a dozen oysters; beard them, and preserve their liquor; dip them for an instant into cold water; put them into a “saucepan for a few minutes with the liquor, and let them heat gently for three or four minutes, till they look plump: ' Tench, Stewed (another way).—Put them into a bowl, and leave a little of their liquor upon them to keep them moist. Strain the gravy from the tench, place the fish on a hot dish, and keep it hot. Thicken the gravy with a little flour, and let it boil. Put the oysters and their liquor into it, but on no account allow it to boil after they are added. Pour the sauce over the fish, and serve hot. Garnish with fried sippets. Time, three-quar- ters of an hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. Tench, Stewed, with Poulette Sauce.—Take about two pounds of tench; draw and clean the fish carefully, and remove the gills. Put it into boiling water for three minutes, then remove the scales, and cut the fish into convenient-sized pieces. Mix two ounces of butter and one ounce and a half of flour over a clear fire until quite smooth. Add as.much , common French wine or cider as will cover the fish, and let it boil for eight or ten minutes. Put with it a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a moderate-sized onion, and a little pepper and salt.. Add the fish, and let it stew gently over a slow fire until done enough. Strain the sauce, and mix part of it with the well-beaten yolks of three eggs in a basin, and pour it to the remainder. Stir it over a gentle fire until it is very hot without boiling, and add a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Arrange the slices of tench upon a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve very hot. The dish may. be garnished with the fried roe, toasted sippets, and a little parsley and horseradish. ‘Time to simmer the fish, about twenty minutes. Sufficient for two or three persons. Tewahdiddle, Dr. Kitchiner’s.—Dr. Kitchiner recommends this preparation as one of the ,pleasantest of :beverages. Grate a little nutmeg” into a pint of table beer, and add a small foll of thin lemon-rind, a little grated ginger, a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, and a table-spoonful of brandy. Stir the beverage until the sugar is dissolved, and drink it at once. Thickening.—Sauces and soups may be thickened in various ways, and the different pro- cesses are spoken of in the professional nomen- clature as liaisons ; thus we have liaisons of roux and ‘liaisons of eggs. Soups’ are thickened also with vegetables, and with farinaceous sub- stances, such as sago and tapioca, and when these ‘are used, they are generally boiled with the liquor, according to the directions given in each recipe. In ordinary domestic cookery, ‘however, the word “thickening” is generally understood as specially denoting the brown or white thickening for sauces, made of flour and butter, and called by the French roux; and as. these preparations, though easy to make, require both time and care, detailed directions are here given for making them. Common cooks: are accustomed to dispense with this properly-prepared roux, and to thicken their sauces with a hastily-made paste of flour, and to colour them with burnt sugar; the conse- quence is their sauces often taste either musty, gruelly, or burnt. Those who have not hitherto done 80, would find it to their advantage to avail themselves of the first leisure hour: they have at their disposal, to make a quantity of the true brown thickening, and then to put it aside to be used when required: .it is as easy to make a large quantity as 4 small. The roux will keep for three or four months, and the sauces thickened with it are rich and brown in appearance. Thickening, Brown.—Take a pound of flour. Spread it on a newspaper or large dish, and dry it thoroughly ‘before the fire, and afterwards sift it carefully. Put a pound of fresh butter into a stewpan over a gentlo fire, and melt it very gradually. Skim carefully, and afterwards pour off the portion that looks like clear oil, and leave untouched the white THI ( 967 ) THI thick substance which will have settled at the bottom. Pour the clear ,oiled butter into a clean stewpan, mix the dried and sifted flour thoroughly and gradually with it, and beat it over a gentle fire with a wooden spoon until it forms a thick mass. Continue to stir it patiently until it is lightly coloured. Dyaw it to the side of the fire, and throw in with ita slice of onion for flavouring, and do not cease to stir the mixture until if no longer bubbles. Take out the onion, pour the roux into an earthen jar, and let it get cold. It then will be ready for use. When wanted for thickening, mix the roux with the sauce, and stir it till it boils. The sauce only attains its proper con- sistency after it has been stirred and boiled. This thickening may be mixed with either hot or cold liquor. If cold, stir it over the fire tili it boils. If hot, moisten the roux gradually, and off the fire, with the sauce, then pour it into. the remainder, and.stir it over the fire till it boils. In.order to cleanse sauce that has been thiekened, that:is, to.remove the fat which has not become-thorgughly incorporated with the gravy, draw the,saucepan to the side of the fire, and throw in a small quantity of lukewarm water. The fat, &c., will rise to the surface, and may be removed with a spoon. Time to brown the roux, about an hour. A dessert- spoonful will thicken a pint of gravy. Thickening, Brown (M. Ude’s way).— Put into a stewpan a piece of butter propor-. tionate to the quantity of thickening intended to be prepared. Melt it gently; take out the buttermilk, then put flour enough to make a paste. Fry it on a slow fire, and then put it again over very red ashes till it be of a nice colour. Observe, this is to be obtained only -by slow degrees. When of a light brown pour it into an earthen pan, and preserve for use. It will keep a long time. Thickening of Egg.—Boil the sauce, and take it off the fire for two minutes that it may partially cool. and mix them with a spoonful of cold broth or water and a small portion of the hot sauce, Stir them briskly to the remainder of the sauce, and continue stirring over the fire until it is very hot. It must not boil or it will curdle. Thickening of Farinaceous Sub- stances.— Occasionally arrowroot, ground ‘ rice, or flour without butter, is used to thicken soups and sauces. In this case put the thicken- ing substance into a basin, moisten gradually with a little cold stock, water, or milk, and beat it with the back of a spoon until no lumps are to be found in it. "With one hand pour this batter into the soup or sauce, which should be boiling quickly at the time, and with the other stir it briskly. Let it boil for a few minutes, and it will be ready for serving. Invalids and persons of delicate taste often object strongly to butter in their sauces. Thickening, Quickly made (for imme- mediate use).— When it is wished to thicken - Sauces, and brown thickening is not at hand, dissolve half an ounce of butter, and then mix smoothly with it a table-spoonful of flour. Stir it quickly over a gentle fire with a wooden Beat the yolks of ‘the eggs, | spoon for’ three minutes, moisten gradually with a pint of' stock'or broth, let it boil three or four minutes, season properly, and it will be ready for use. Sufficient for a pint of sauce. Thickening, Simple, for ordinary Brown Soup.—Put a breakfast-cupful of stock into a, saucepan with a quarter of an ounce of sage, a.quarterof an ounce of chopped onion, a quarter of an ounce of grated lemon-peel, and two ounces of celery. Let these simmer gently for half an hour, strain the liquor, and rub the herbs through a fine sieve. Dissolve six ounces of butter, and incorporate with it, gradually and thoroughly, six- ounces of dried flour. Stir it quickly over a gentle fire till it is lightly browned. Moisten the mixture with the Hquor from the herbs, and it will be ready for the soup, which ought to boil for an hour after it is added. Suitable seasoning will of course be required in addition. Time, three-quarters of anhour. Snfficient for five quarts of soup. Thickening, White, for Sauces.— In making white thickening for sauces, follow exactly the directions given for making Brown Thickening’, remembering only that, the mixture must not be allowed to colour. In order to. prevent this it must be baked over a very gentle fire, and it must not remain on the fire so long asin the former case. When done enough it must be turned into an earthen jar, and set aside for use. White’ thickening is used for thickening white sauces. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Sufficient, a dessert-spoonful will thicken a pint of gravy. , i Thickening with Blood (occasionally used with poultry. and game, especially. hare). —Be careful not to use the blood until it is cool. Boil whatever sauce is to be thickened with it, then take it off the fire for two minutes. Mix the blood gradually with a small portion of this in a basin separately, and afterwards add. it to the rest. Stir the sauce ver the fire until it is very hot. It must not foil after the blood is added, or it will curdle. Thickening with Butter or Butter and Cream.—Although itis usual to speak of thickening sauce. or soup with butter. or butter and cream, these articles do not by them- selves serve to thicken the liquor, but only:to make it:smooth and rich.: A little .cold butter added at the:last moment to sauce greatly improves .its flavour}: but it should be remem- bered that it must not be put in until the sauce is poured into the tureen in which it is to be served,,and that then it should be stirred until it is. dissolved. In the same way, butter or a mixture of butter and cream may be added to soups. Thistle-heads with Marrow.-— Pro- ceed as recommended in the recipe Thistle-heads with Spanish Sauce. Take a few pieces,of beef marrow, all,of a size, which put in warm water to draw out. all. the blood. . When thoroughly disgorged, blanch and stew them in water with a little salt and a few slices of lemon to keep them white. When done, drain in a clean towel, and put them: into the essence, which is some Espagnole reduced. Drain the fat, and do not forget to add a little sugar, which is THI ( 968 ) THY requisite in all dishes of cardons, as it improves them greatly, cardons being not unfrequently bitter. Thistle Heads with Spanish Sauce. —‘‘This dish,” says M. Ude, “requires great attention and no emall share of skill in the art of cooking. It isnot much relished in England, but in France it is held in the highest estima- tion. It is always one of those selected to try the skill of a cook. “Select a few heads, or cardons, all very white. Cut each leaf into strips six inches long, with the exception, however, of those that are hollow, which are tough and thready. Beard them of .their prickles, and blanch them by putting the thickest leaves into boiling water. After boiling them a few minutes, put in the leaves of the heart; turn the middle stalks into the shape of large olives, and blanch them likewise. Then try a piece in cold water, to see whether the slime which is on the surface will come off by rubbing. If so, take them off the fire immediately, and throw them into cold water, as they are done enough; or you may cool the boiling water by pouring in cold water till you are able to bear your hand in it to rub off all the slime. This being done, wash them clean, and throw the cardons into a blanc, boil them once, and leave them in the blanc. Mind not to let them be too much done. ascertain when they are done by thrusting in the point of your knife, and if it enters easily they are done enough. Whenever you wish to use them, drain a sufficient quantity.. Pare both extremities, and mask them in a stew- pan with four spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, four spoonfuls of consommé, a little salt, and a little sugar. Let them boil over a sharp fire that they may not be done too much; and be sure to skim off all the fat. Dish them nicely. Strain the sauce through » tamis before you mask them. Send them up to table quite hot, with a cover over them to prevent their getting dry. The cardons mix very well with eggs, and when you have any returned from table they will warm up again very well, if you are particular in taking them off to put them immediately into the larder: in case they are too much done, use them to make /es eufs brouillés (poached eggs), which you should make only when you have cardons left from the parlour. This is a capital entremet, and may be selected ag one of the finest efforts of cookery.” Thornback.—This fish is a species of skate. It grows to the length of two fect, and its flesh is considered excellent food. It is in the highest perfection during the autumn and winter months. It is very common on the English and Irish coasts. The parts which may be called the wings of the thornback should be cut in strips and laid in salt and water for a day or two to take away the raw coarse taste which belongs to them when freshly dressed. Thornback, Boiled.—Take a thornbaek of tolerable size, clean it with scrupulous care, and skin it. Lay the part usually eaten in the fish-kettle, cover it with cold water, and add You must - two ounces of salt and a table-spoonful of vinegar to two quarts of water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim it well, and let it boil gently until the flesh will part easily from the bone, which is a sign that it is sufficiently dressed. Lift the fish out carefully and drain it. Serve on a dish covered with « hot nap- kin, and garnish with green parsley and sliced lemon. Send melted butter or anchovy sauce to table in a tureen. If liked, the fins. of the fish may be fried separately. Time to boil, ac- cording to size. THORNBACK, Thornback, Fried.—Clean and skin the fish, cut the part which is usually eaten into slices about an inch thick, and dry them witha soft cloth. Dredge them with flour, and let them lie for half an hour or more. Fry them in hot fat until they are brightly browned, and when they are done upon one side turn them upon the other. Drain them on blotting-paper to clear them from fat, and serve on a hot dish. Garnish with parsley. If preferred, the slices may be dipped in egg and bread-crumbs instead of being floured before they are fried. Time to fry, ten to twelve minutes. Probable cost, variable, but generally inexpensive. Thrush, — The thrush was perhaps the most, popular bird at ‘delicate tables in ancient Greece. They were not given to young people for fear their exquisite flavour might give birth to premature greediness; but when a girl married she was sure of a brace of thrushes for her own special eating on her wedding-day. In Rome the birds were still more popular: patrician ladies reared thousands of thrushes yearly for the market, and men ruined them- selves in providing dishes composed of these birds for their guests. Thyme.—Thyme is a herb much valued on account of its strong, pungent, aromatic odour and taste. Three varieties are used in cookery —common thyme, lemon thyme, and orange thyme. Lemon thyme and common thyme should be dried at the end of July and during August. Orange thyme is ready a little earlier, and may be dried in June and July. thyme is most valuable for flavouring when Although . TIM ( 969 ) TIM judiciously used, it is apt to impart a bitter taste to any preparation to which it is added in too large quantities. ; THYME, Timbale for Macaroni, &c. — The paste for a hot timbale should be a little more delicate than for a cold pie; therefore put more butter into it. Take a pound of flour, a little more than half a pound of butter, two yolks of eggs, and a pinch of salt. Work this with half a glassful of water, making the paste as smooth as possible; proceed then as follows :— Butter a plain mould all over well, decorate the bottom a little and the sides by using some of the same paste and adding some pounded sugar; the paste will take a browner colour, and will add to the appearance of the tim- bales. Spread the paste over a dresser, cut a piece the size of the bottom of the mould (using the mould to measure with), and cover the bottom of the mould and all the decorations without disturbing them ; water the ornamented paste as above, then stick the other paste lightly over, and cut a bit to put all round over the decorated parts. Roll a little paste also to stick the whole together round the bottom, then fill the mould with beef suet chopped fine, and make a cover to it of the same length; put this into the oven for an hour, and when done empty it for use. It may be used for penn, fricassee, blanquettes of every kind, c. &e. Timbale of Macaroni.—Put half a pound of the best tape macaroni in a stewpan with three pints of boiling water and a little , pepper and salt. Let it simmer gently for twenty minutes, then drain it, put it back with half a pint of broth, and Jet it simmer until it ‘will divide easily without being too soft. Cut it into short lengths of uniform size, and cover the inside of a thickly-buttered mould with it quite closely and neatly. Spread over the macaroni a little good forcemeat seasoned suitably to whatever is to constitute the con- tents of the timbale, and afterwards fill up the mould with a highly-seasoned mince of game or poultry. Moisten with good sauce, cover over the preparation, and let it simmer gently until done enough. If liked, three or four small timbales may be made instead of one large one, and their appearance may be varied by placing a truffle in the centre of the mould so that it will be at the top when the timbale is turned out. These small timbales have a pretty appearance. A suitable sauce should be sent to table with them. Minced game of all kinds, minced sweet- breads, and minced ox palates are suitable for the interior of timbales. Time to simmer, nearly an hour. Probable cost, varying with the con- tents. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Timbale, Veal and Ham.—Make two pounds of good short pastry, such as would be suitable for meat pies, and with two-thirds of this line a well-buttered plain round mould. Cut three pounds of the fillet of veal into pieces an inch square, and make three-quarters of a pound of good veal forcemeat. Fill the pie with alternate layers of the veal, thin rashers of fat bacon, the forcemeat and dressed ham, and season each layer separately and rather highly. Roll out the remainder of the paste, and cover the timbale. Press it down, and trim neatly. Roll out the trimmings, and stamp out leaves or any fancy shapes, and with them ornament the surface. Brush it over with yolk of egg, and bake in a well-heated oven. About twenty minutes before the timbale is done, take it out, and pour in through the hole at the topa little nicely-seasoned dissolved aspic jelly made of the bones and trimmings of the veal stewed down with a cow-heel. The veal will be much improved if it is larded with the bacon instead of having the latter simply laid upon it. If it should be preferred, any kind of nicely-sea- soned fricassee may be used instead of the veal and ham. Time to bake, from two to three hours. Probable cost, 78. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Timbales.—Timbales are French dishes, so named from timbale, a metal cup, because they are generally made in plain moulds, either round or oval... They are excellent and pretty, but difficult to make, as they require both care and practice to make them properly. They rather resemble our raised pies. The outer case may be constructed of short paste, macaroni, rice, or other substances, and they may be filled with any nicely-flavoured fricassee of fowl or game, or with fruit and sweetmeats. Two or three simple recipes are given here, which may be varied according to taste. Timbales of Rice with Fruit.— Wash a quarter of a pound of best Carolina rice, drain it on a hair sieve, and put it in a clean sauce- pan with a pint of cold new milk, a pinch of salt, and three or four large lumps of sugar which have been rubbed upon the rind of a fresh lemon or a Seville orange to extract the flavour. Put the saucepan at the side of the fire that the rice may swell very slowly and gradually ; then stir it well, put it on the fire, add a lump of butter the size of a walnut, and let the rice boil gently until it has absorbed all the milk and is'so tender that it can be crushed to a smooth paste with the back of a wooden spoon. Unless it is allowed to boil very gently and till it is quite dry it will not answer the TIM (970 ) TIN purpose. Have ready some small -buttered-cups, beat the rice well; press it into’ the cups ‘while it is still warm, and let it ‘remain in them | until quite cold. Boil the strained ‘juice of a large fresh lemon with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar to a clear syrup, and slice into this six apples peeled and cored. Let them simmer gently until reduced to pulp, take them: off the fire for a minute or two, and stir gradually into them the well-beaten yolks of four eggs. Beat them over the fire for two minutes, then let them cool. Turn the rice out of the moulds. If it is found to be at all difficult to do this, set the cups in hot water for a minute or two, again reverse them on a baking-tin, and with the point of a sharp knife carefully scoop out a hollow in the centre of each. Fill this with the pre- pared apples, and brush the timbales all over with the white of egg whisked to a froth and mixed with powdered and sifted sugar. Pour as much of this icing as is left upon the fruit, and bake the timbales in a well-heated oven. Serve very hot. Time to bake the timbales, a quarter of an hour.. Probable cost, 3d. each. Sufficient for a small dish. Timbales, Small (for all sorts of Entrées). —Butter eighteen dariole-moulds thoroughly, spread some trimmings of puff paste on the dresser, cut with a -cutter'a round of paste large enough to fill the mould, have a bit of paste of the same form as the inside of the mould, but not so large; put the round: piece over the latter, let it fall all round, and then introduce this into the mould. Press. equally everywhere with your finger to keep the-paste - the same thickness; cut off all the paste:that is-above the rim, fill the mould with trimmings of paste, and put on a false cover to prevent.the border of the paste from taking a bad colour. A dozen is always sufficient, except when the dishes are very large. Bake them of a good colour; when done, empty all the inside, and garnish with whatever you may think proper. ‘or patés au jus (with gravy), fill the inside with godiveau, and bake them with false covers. When done, take off the cover, and open them with a knife to let in a spoo: ‘of Espagnole sauce, then cover them .with small covers made of puff make of the proper size and a good colour, and serve up very hot. It is-almost needless to say that the same paste and the same pre- paration will serve for.a dozen different sorts, such as salpicon, soft roe of mackerel, lobster, sweetbread, fat.liver and truffles, soft roe of cod, turbot, sole, &c. . ._ Timbales, ‘Small (for Fruit; Jelly, or ‘Cream):—Weigh -three large fresh eggs, and then take their-weight in flour and half their weight in powdered sugar. Break the eggs, and separate the yolks and the whites. Beat the yolks in a basin, and add to them first the sugar and afterwards the ‘flour. When they are thoroughly mixed, and just before the timbales are to be baked, add the well-whisked whites of the eggs, and a tea-spoonful of strained Jemon-juice. Drop the paste’ in small lumps upon a buttered baking-tin, and hollow these in ‘the centre like a cup. Bake them in a slow oven, and when they are done enough, trim pate that you have been particular to : them to a neat shape. ‘Keep them ina dry, warm place until wanted ;.and when they-are to be served fill them with fruit, jelly, or flavoured cream. ‘Time to bake, half anhour. Probable cost, without the contents, 2d. each. Sufficient for a small dish. . Tinned Meats, Austvalign:—The fol- lowing original recipes (one hundred ‘in num- ber) are the result of several years’. experience in the use of Australian meats. Against these considerable prejudice exists, owing, to a great extent, to the fact that few know how to cook them properly. If the recipes here given, how- ever, are followed, it will be found easy, even for a cook of moderate abilities, to prepare from Australian meats a succession of tasty as well as digestible and nourishing dishes. Onp. 977 the names of the various recipes will be found in alphabetical order, so that any particular one may be referred to with ease. 1. Sour wits ForcemeaT Batts. Boil half a pound of the lean of Australian mutton or beef in two quarts of watér for half an hour with two ounces of chopped carrots, one ounce of chopped onions, a little celery, a blade of mace, using pepper and salt to season. ‘Have ready forcemeat balls made of equal parts of finély-chopped meat, bacon, bread- crumbs, ‘flour, and an egg to bind the mixture together. Roll into balls an inch in diameter, fry in a little Australian fat; strain the soup; brown it whilst at boiling point; place the balls in a tureen, and pour the soup on them. 2. Beer Tra. .. |. » Turn out a tin of Australian ;beef.. ‘Take a tea-cupful of the clear jelly without a.particle of fat, melt in the oven, season, with pepper and salt, and brown with a few drops of. colouring. Toast a thin slice of bread crisply, cut into dice, and serve. in the tin or on,a small plate, . oo 8. Murron Brotu.: Take ‘the required quantity of jelly from a shape of mutton, add a pint of boiling water, season with pepper and salt; ‘thicken with one tea-spoonful of corn-flour, add a pinch of nut- meg, and serve with dried toast. : ee 4, Sour, JULIENNE. .. Proceed as for Soup.with Forcemeat Balls (see No. 1),:but instead of forcemeat balls prepare carrots, turnips, and parsnips, by scraping, peel- ing, and washing them; cut them in thin slices, and again into thin strips; boil until tender in the soup, which must first be. strained; brown, and thicken with a table-spoonful of corn-flour. In summer, any kind of vegetable may be added —lettuce or French beans, &c. | ns 5. Soup, Pza. wal _ Prepare the stock as‘for Soup with Forcemeat JBalls (see No. 1), and thicken with a quarter of a pound of Symington’s. Prepared Pea Powder. Cut toasted bread into dice, fry crisply in-Aus- tralian, fat, place in-the tureen, and pour the soup on it, ; é 6. Intsu Stew. ° Boil six onions ‘sliced in a quart of water with six large potatoes peeled and cut in jhalf; pepper and salt pretty freely. When boiled tender, but not broken, thicken the gravy with TIN ( 971) TIN ‘flour and brown it; then take small pieces about three inches square and one inch thick of Australian mutton, pepper and salt them, and turn them over and over until well covered in flour; fry in: a little fat, place in the centre -of the dish, put the potatoes round and a few over the meat, pour over the gravy, and serve. A few light dumplings, made with one -tea- spoonful of baking powder to a pound of flour, may be served with the stew. 7. Mutron, Hartcor or. Fry pieces of Australian mutton as directed in recipe No. 6, and place in a dish in the centre. Have ready some boiled carrots, cut them in slices, and fry after the meat; then make a gravy with a little stock, coloured, seasoned, and thickened, which pour over the carrots in. the stewpan. Boil up over the-fire, and pour round the meat. 8. Murron, Curriep. Boil one pound of pickled :pork in a quart of water for three-quarters of an hour with four ‘small onions and a sprig of thyme; then cut into: neat slices the pork,and two pounds of Australian mutton: lay the whole ina stewpan. Reduce the liquor in which the pork was boiled one-half, skim free from fat, mix with it one tea-spoonful of curry powder, pulp the onions with a table-spoonful of flour, slice one. sharp apple very thin and also one toniato, boil ten minutes, put into the curry, stir gently to mix it well without breaking the meat: too much, and serve with a-rim: of boiled rice. ~ 9. Murrox, Dry Currizp. ms Fry a sliced onion till brown in Australian fat; cut Australian mutton across the grain in: small dice, mix it with the fried. onion, and fry both till hot through, stirring as little as pos- sible; sprinkle over lightly half a tea-spoonful | of curry powder, salt and pepper to taste, mix: well together, pour over two table-spoonfuls of milk or cream, stir till dry, and serve. 10. Bzzr (au Diable). Cut inch-thick slices, across the grain, of beef, cover them with the following. mixture, and fry :——One spoonful of made mustard, ditto chutnee; ditto anchovy, double the quantity of salad-oil, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. "11. Puppine, Roun. Make a crust of one pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of -bread-crumbs, half a pound of rolled ‘and rubbed suet, one tea-spoonful of ‘baking powder, and. water sufficient to make it into not too stiff a paste.: Roll it out half an inch thick, and spread over it a layer of minced Australian seasoned with pepper and. salt, one shallot finely minced, and a quarter of a pound . of minced ham or bacon, all mixed thoroughly together. Let this be spread on the paste half an inch thick, then roll up as for a jam roll, tie in a wetted and floured cloth, and boil one-hour and a half; turn out, garnish with parsley, and serve thick brown gravy ‘over the pudding. © ,12, Puppine (au Gratin). Mix well together one pound of flour, half a pound of bread-crumbs, one: tea-spoonful of ‘baking powder, one pound of. minced Australian, @ quarter.of. a pound.of chopped ham or good round it, bacon,. pepper, salt, and nutmeg. to season, a quarter.of a pound of rolled and rubbed suet, ‘two eggs well beaten, and half a pint of milk. Have ready a buttered pudding-basin, pour in the mixture, cover. with a wetted and floured cloth; tie down tightly, and boil, one hour and a quarter. Serve with rich brown gravy , 18. Puppine, Bornep. ; Make a crust as for No. 11; roll out half an inch thick, line a buttered basin, and. put in it small pieces of cross-grain-cut mutton, over the first layer sprinkle pepper and. salt, and put thinly-sliced boiled potatoes ; repeat alternately until you have filled the basin, then pour in a mixture made of a tea-cupful of water or stock, a tea-spoonful of Harvey Sauce, a quarter of a tea-spoontful of chutnee, and a little colouring. Cover up with crust, tie down with a floured cloth, and boil an hour and a half. Serve with a boat of brown gravy. wy dy Puppine, Forcemear, . Soak a pound of bread in milk; beat it up smooth -with half a pound of forcemeat, the yolks of two eggs, and seasoning if required. ‘When ready to bake, stir in the whites ‘of tha eggs beaten well. Bake in a greased pie-dish half an hour. : . 15. ForceMrar., Cut a, pound of .fresh pork into thin slices. Mix two ounces of fine bread-crumbs with a tea-spoonful of salt, half ditto of pepper, and ditto of dried and rubbed sage; pour over the meat a tea-cupful of good gravy made from ') Australian meat. When you have thoroughly ‘mixed the pork and the seasoning, add one ‘pound of Australian mince; mix all well-to- gether, and use as required: | | : .., 16. FoRcEMEAT Baizs. ; Flour your hands: take a table-spoonful of forcemeat, roll into balls, fry in Australian fat about seven minutes. Serve on a napkin with a garnish of parsley anda little good thick brown gravy in a boat. / : es _, 17. Sausages. Steet Fill small skins with forcemeat highly. sea- soned, prick. and fry in Australian fat. Serve on buttered toast dipped in hot broth. __., : 18,, Puppine, Savsacz. 4 Prepare a crust- as for No. 11; fill with skinned’ sausages, pour in-half a tea-cupful ‘of good gravy, lay onthe top some.slices of good bacon: fried, cover all with crust; tie, and boil an-hour and a half, 19. SausacEs, BoLoena.: « \ Take equal quantities of fat'and-lean bacon, veal, pork, and beef-suet,-and double the.quan- tity of Australian beef; chop-fine in a mincing machine, season with pepper and. salt.and dried sage rubbed. Have ready a well-washed.skin, fill and prick, boil an hour, and Jay on straw to dry. These sausages may be smoked like-hams. 20. Toap+1n-a-Houe: Forcemgar. © If you have more than will fill askin of No 19, put a layer in a greased pie-dish, then a layer of beaten-up ‘bread soaked for an hour in milk, and so. on till-the pie-dish is nearly full; pour over it a:batter made of five ounces ' 6 TIN of flour, four table-spoonfuls of cold water, a small pinch of salt, a pint of new milk, and two eggs well-beaten. Bake in a moderately hot oven. 21. Toap In A Hote. Pour the batter No. 20 over layers of Aus- tralian mutton and very thin slices of crumb of bread placed alternately in a buttered pie- dish and seasoned. : Bake for an hour, and serve with a boat of good gravy. 22. Puppine, Brrr anp Krpney. Prepare a crust as for No. 11; line a greased basin with it, and place in it alternate layers of slices of beef cut an inch thick and well seasoned, and of thinly-sliced kidneys (ox kidneys do very well for this purpose, they are larger and cheaper), a little finely-minced shallot, and a tea-cupiful of good gravy. When the dish is full, cover with crust, and boil an hour and a half. Serve some brown gravy with the pudding. 23. Beer Friep with Sver Dump.ines. Cut some nice tidy pieces of beef across the grain, flour them well, pepper and salt them, and then fry in Australian fat till of a nice brown; place in a hot dish, and put it in the oven to keep hot till you have the dumplings ready. Roll up a table-spoonful of paste (see No. 11) in well-floured, hands, and drop into a fiercely- boiling saucepan of water; as they rise, take them out, and lay them round the meat ‘in the dish, pour a little thick brown gravy over, and serve. 24, Murron Friep witu Sver Puppine. mutton in slices as the beef is done in No. 23. Cut a boiled suet pudding made as the crust in No. 11 into slices, fry lightly—if just boiled and hot it will only require a short time to fry—lay it round the meat, pour gravy over, and serve. 25. Murron wirn Sausaces. Prepare the meat as in the two foregoing recipes. Fry some sausages cut in short lengths and pricked in Australian fat, place them on the meat, and serve with brown gravy poured over. 26. Murron with Bacon. Prepare the meat as before; and place on each piece a nicely-fried piece of bacon. Pour over it the following sauce:—First prepare of chopped gherkins, capers, and shallots, one table-spoonful each ; put in a pan with a little pepper and one wine-glassful of vinegar; let it boil four minutes, then add rather more than half a pint of good stock, a table-spoonful of flour, a little colouring, a piece of batter the size of a nut, and one tea-spoonful of anchovy ; boil, and stir well. 27. BEEF FRIED IN Batrer. Cut some tidy pieces of beef an inch thick, flour well, and dip in a batter made according to No. 20. Have ready some boiling fat in a frying-pan, lay in the pieces of meat gently, so as not to break them; fry a light brown, and serve with a boat of gravy. 28. PzEr wirn Savoury Puppine. Fry the beef as in recipe No. 23, and place round the dish in neat slices the following (972) TIN savoury pudding :—Pour boiling milk on some bread rubbed fine, add four large table-spoon- fuls of fine oatmeal, two well beaten eggs, pepper and salt, a little onion chopped fine, dried and rubbed sage and sweet marjoram, half a tea-spoonful of each. The compound should be as stiff as thick batter. Beat all well together, and bake in a dripping-pan an inch thick, cut up like Yorkshire pudding, and serve with good gravy. 29. Brrr (au Fromage). Mince finely a pound of Australian beef, sea- son it with pepper and salt, nutmeg, and a chopped shallot; boil some macaroni tender in broth, lay the mince in a pie-dish, cover with the macaroni, pour on it a tea-cupful of the broth, pepper it, and grate two ounces of cheese over it. Bake a quarter of an hour in a hot oven. 30. Brzr (au Macaroni). Mince as in Beef au Fromage. Lay the meat in a shallow pie-dish, boil some macaroni in broth with ashallot; when tender, lay it over the meat, pour on it a tea-cupful of the broth, cover with a plate, and heat it through in the oven. 31. Beer (au Gratin). Mince two pounds of beef, mix with it half a pound of minced bacon, season the whole with pepper and salt and nutmeg; lay it in a shallow dish, spread grated bread-crumbs over it half an inch thick, bake half an hour, and serve, putting the dish in another before sending to table. 32. Meat with Potato Cover. Mince’ some Australian mutton, season with pepper and salt, mix with it a tea-cupful of broth, and put it in a shallow dish. Boil some mealy potatoes, mash them, beat them up with an egg, a bit of butter, and a little milk; spread this mixture smoothly over the meat, and bake till of a golden brown. 33. Poraro Pir. Put into a pie-dish alternate layers of sliced meat and sliced potatoes, pepper and salt it (a few button mushrooms are a great addition); pour in a tea-cupful of thickened gravy, cover it with mashed potatoes as for No. 32; mark it over with a three-pronged fork, and bake half an hour in a brisk oven. 34. Porato Wau. Mash some potatoes as for No. 32; pile them round the inside of a meat-dish, raised up three inches high and two and a half inches thick. Smooth the surface of the wall with a knife, and brush over with the yolk of an egg beaten; fill up the hollow inside with a well-seasoned mince, and bake half an hour. 8 35. Potato RissouEs. Have ready well-seasoned mince mixed with a fourth of its own weight in bread-crumbs, roll a piece into a ball, cover it with mashed potato prepared as in No. 32; flour well, and fry a nice brown colour in Australian fat. 36. Rice Rissouzs. _ Take a tea-cupful of well-washed rice, leave it to soak twenty minutes in cold water; strain TIN (973) TIN the water off, and add three tea-cupfuls of cold water to the rice with a little salt; set it on | the fire, and by the time it boils the. rice will be nearly dressed. Pour the contents of the saucepan into a colander, set it on .a saucepan on a stove for ten or fifteen minutes, covering well with a clean cloth—this will absorb the steam and leave the rice dry and whole. Take some mince prepared as in No. 35, roll into balls, and cover with the rice mixed with a well-beaten egg; flour, and fry a very light brown. Serve on a napkin with parsley. 37. RIssoLEs. Prepare the mince as for No. 35, flour the halls, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with good thick gravy. 38. RIssoLETTE. Prepare mince as for No. 35, adding a small quantity of chopped suet, a chopped onion, and’ two eges; mix well together. Add one tea- cupful of stock, and pour into a greased pie- dish. Bake till crisp outside, turn on to a flat: dish, and serve with gravy in a boat. 89. Mince on Toast. Prepare the mince as for No. 35, season with a little anchovy, half a tea-spoonful of chutnee, a pinch of sage, and a little cream. Stir it in a stewpan over the fire with @ dessert-spoonful of corn-flour, and put it when quite hot on to buttered toast in small squares of four inches. 40. Open Mince Tart. Prepare mince as in No. 89. Make a short paste, line a flat dish as for an open jam tart, the edge well raised, and fill it with the mince. Cut out of the paste a few leaves or other orna- ments. Bake separately, and when the tart is baked and ready for sending to table, put the leaves on it regularly. 41. Mince rn ScaLbors. Butter half a dozen scallop-shells, fill them with the mince No. 39, strew them with bread- crumbs thickly.. Bake, and serve on a napkin. 42. Mince witH Poacuep Kees. Line a flat dish with mince No. 39; poach half -a dozen eggs, place them regularly on the’ mince, fry a few strips of bacon, and put them round just before serving. : 43, Mince anp SPINACH. Put a border of mince No. 39 round a flat meat-dish, and fill the centre with spinach boiled without water, chopped fine, peppered and ‘salted, and with which two table-spoonfuls of cream have been mixed. Serve very hot. 44, OmeLer wiTH Mince. Make an omelet thus:—Put half an ounce of butter into the pan, pour gently in two eggs well ‘beaten with a table-spoonful of milk, a little chopped parsley, a little chopped shallot, pepper and salt; do not stir for half a minute, then stir all up together, and in two minutes it will be done. .Slide on to a dish, and fold double, first placing on half a small quantity of mince No..39 made quite hot. Garnish with parsley, and serve. 45, HacuIs AU POIS. Cut some neat slices of mutton, place on a dish, pepper and salt, cover with another dish, and heat thoroughly in the oven. Have ready some peas—those that are rather old will do—lcé them be well stewed with pepper and salt in Australian broth. When done, mix two table- spoonfuls of corn-flour with them, a table- spoonful of any hot sauce, a leaf of mint dried and rubbed, some colouring; stir till thick, pour round the meat, and serve. 46. Mince with Harp-porLep Ecos. _ Prepare mince No. 39, place it round a flat dish; boil three eggs ten minutes, shell and halve them. Have ready some nice white sauce, lay the half eggs on the mince at regu- lar distances, and pour over the white sauce, having previously filled the hollow of the dish with a rocky pile of mashed, potato. 47. FriraDELLA wiTtH Wuire Sauce. Fry some well-seasoned and well-floured pieces of mutton, breaking as little as possible. Place in a flat dish, and cover with a nice white sauce. Put slices of pickled beetroot over, and serve, 48. FRITADELLAS. Prepare mince No. 39; roll into balls, fry, and place on a flat dish, pour some good white sauce over, and serve with a garnish of parsley, and place some small balls of mashed potato (see No. 32) fried alternately round. : 49. Friep Mzats. Kither mutton or beef is very good cut into thick slices, peppered and salted, and well floured. Break an egg, beat it up, and mix with two ounces of bread-crumbs on a flat plate; cover the pieces of meat with it, and fry in boiling fat a nice brown. Lay in a dish, cut some cold boiled potatoes in thin slices, and fry them after the meat till of a light brown. Lay them lightly over the meat, and serve. 50..Brzast or Murrow (a !’Australienne). Bone a breast of mutton, flatten it out well, lay over it mince made of Australian mutton well seasoned, roll it up very tightly, and tie securely with tape. Bake in a quick oven, and serve, after untying it, with this sauce: —Cut up into very small square pieces an ounce of lean ham or bacon, the same quantity of carrot, celery, and onion, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, twenty peppercorns, and a bit of mace. ‘Fry these the size of a walnut in fat till the whole gets well browned; add a wine-glassful of vinegar, half a wine-glassful of ketchup, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy. When this- has boiled to half its quantity add one pint of melted butter coloured brown, two table-~ spoonfuls of stock, and a wine-glassful of sherry. Boil gently, remove the grease, and strain. 51. Busse anp Squrax. Prepare some mince (see No. 31); put it into a round basin, and then into the oven to keep warm. Boil some cabbage tender, chop it up, and stir over the fire in a stewpan with an ounce of butter and pepper and salt till well heated. . Then turn out, the mest on to a dish, lay the cabbage round it half way up the shape of meat, place some strips of boiled bacon, all round that part of the meat that is left un- covered, and serve. TIN (974) TIN 52. BovurLLaBAIssE. Divide two Portugal onions in quarters, and having shred these, fry them in a stewpan with two table-spoonfuls of oil, then add two tea- spoonfuls of pepper, a little salt, and a quart of water. Boil five minutes, and add some Aus- tralian beef cut in dice. Heat well through, and serve very hot. 53. Beer CoLLops. Cut small slices about two inches across, and fry in fat on both sides. Shake a little flour in, add a dozen oysters, a little Harvey, lemon- juice, pepper, and one tea-spoonful of anchovy. Simmer over the fire ten minutes, and dish up. Mushrooms, olives, or gherkins may be used instead of oysters, and a little sherry may be added in this case. ‘54. Cotuops (a la Sauce Robert). Prepare the collops as in No. 53, and serve them with this sauce:—Chop two onions very fine, fry till of a light brown, add a wine-glass- ful of vinegar and a good pinch of pepper. Boil together five minutes; then add one table- spoonful of flour, two of corn-flour, half a pint of water, and a bit of butter... Stir over the fire for twenty minutes, add one table-spoonful of French mustard, one table-spoonful of Har- vey Sauce, one tea-spoonful.of anchovy. Mix well over the fire, and serve. 55. Racotr pe Mipan. Cut into inch lengths by half an inch square the following, ready cooked, viz., macaroni, beef, ham, tongue, mutton, chicken, game, or veal. Prepare in equal lots as much as is wanted, put it in a stewpan with a little good white sauce, about one ounce of grated cheese, and a little pepper and nutmeg. ‘Toss over the fire till quite hot, and serve. 56. CariLoTapE or Beer on Murron. Cut up in neat slices beef or mutton, flour and pepper and salt them, put aside on a plate; then chop fine about two table-spoonfuls of pic- calilli and two table-spoonfuls of its liquor. Put in a stewpan with a wine-glassful' of ket- chup, reduce ‘by boiling to half, then add the meat, a glass of sherry, and a gill of gravy.: Boil gently five minutes, and serve. 57. Bzrr anp Haricot Bzans. Prepare the meat as in No. 56; prepare the beans as follows:—Shell a pint of the large white sort (they should lie in water all night), put them in sufficient water to cover them with an ounce of Australian fat. Let them boil till quite tender (they will take three hours); rub through a wire sieve—they should be very thick —season nicely, add one ounce of butter, and return to the stewpan. Stir till hot, and serve round the beef. 58. Miroron or Bzzr. Cut six onions into thin slices, fry in two ounces of fat till brown; add one table-spoonful of flour, nearly one pint of water, and ketchup; pepper and salt to season; stir over the fire to ‘boil ten minutes, and pour over the beef dished up in slices; strew raspings over it, bake a quarter of an hour, and serve hot. A spoonful of chutnee will be found a great improvement. ‘- 59. Murron with Frencu Brans. Prepare some mutton as in recipe No. 23; lay it in a flat dish. Boil French beans till tender, strain the water off, and stir them in the pan in which the meat has been fried with one ounce of butter, pepper and salt, half a pint of thickened brown gravy. Pour round the meat, and serve. 60. Smoxine CHIMNEY. This recipe requires a tin shape, with a tin lid fitting to the top, through which a fun- nel like a cottage chimney rises. Cut beef or mutton in dice, stir over the fire with a table- spoonful of Harvey Sauce, four table-spoonfuls of gravy, a boiled and cut-up onion, ‘and two table-spoonfuls of flour, one ounce of butter, a few cooked mushrooms, and pepper and salt to season. Put this in the lower part of the tin. On the lid place a layer of mashed. potato raised like a cottage roof; the steam from below will rise through the funnel, and give the effect of a smoking chimney. is a 61. Beer wirn Sueezr’s Liver. Cut up thick slices of beef and thin slices of liver, pepper and salt both, and flour them well. Put the liver into a dripping-pan with equal slices of good bacon and a pint of water; cover them with very thin slices of onion; let them cook thoroughly, stirring them every five minutes, and flouring them well each time. When the liver is thoroughly done put in the beef; stir about gently to give it the flavour of the gravy, and when quite hot serve. 62. Suzep’s Heart, Sturrzp. Prepare some forcemeat as in recipe No. 15; stuff the hearts with it—not too full, or the stuf- fing will burst out. Brush the hearts over with milk, and roll in flour. Fry them in a little fat and turn them about on all sides till nicely browned; put in a stewpan with a pint of well- seasoned stock. Let them simmer one hour and a half, or till tender; drain away the gravy, skim it, and boil it sharply till reduced to one- half, thicken with a little flour (a glassful of claret is an improvement), pour over the hearts, and serve very hot. The. hearts are better placed on a layer of Australian mince made very hot and savoury. 63. Beer anp Kipnevs. Fry beef in slices and kidneys in very thin slices, lay them alternately one over the dther ; pour over them a rich brown gravy, and serve with fried bacon laid over them at intervals. 64. Brrr anp Tomato Sauce. nay Put in a stewpan six sliced shallots, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, and a wine-glassful of vinegar. Boil gently for five minutes; add a quarter of a pound of tomato pulp, one ounce of butter, one tea-spoonful of anchovy. Stir till it has boiled a few minutes longer. Strain through’ a coarse tin strainer over slices of fried beef, and serve. 65. VEGETABLE Marrow, Sturrep. Take ‘out the seeds of a small custard marrow, fill the hollow with forcemeat No. 15; tic: the marrow in a cloth, boil till tender, peel it caree fully, and serve with good brown gravy. ' 66. Sturrep Cucumper. Take out the seeds of a cucumber, fill it as in \ TIN ( 975 ) TIN No. 65, and boil till tender; peel it carefully, and pour over it this sauce:~-Chop an onion fine, fry it in fat in a small frying-pan, add a wine-glassful of vinegar, pepper and salt, and a little stock; boil five minutes, and add a little mushroom-ketchup. 67. MincE anp Kaecannon. Mix equal proportions of well-boiled, well- seasoned, and well-mashed cabbage and. pota- toes. Haveready a dish in which is a border of very hot mince (see No. 35); pile the kalecannon in the centre, mark with a three-pronged fork, and serve very hot. 68. Murron witn Onron Sauce. Stew some nicely-cut pieces of well-seasoned mutton in a very little water till quite hot through ; put into the same pan two tea-cup- fuls of well-prepared onion sauce; then stir all together, and serve. 69. Murron witu CELERY Sauce. Thoroughly cleanse four heads of celery, slice them very thin, and put them in a stewpan with nutmeg, pepper, and salt to taste; add two ounces of butter and a sliced onion; cover, and set on the stove to stew very gently without colouring. When tender, add four ounces of flour and one pint of milk; stir again over the fire till the sauce has boiled twenty minutes; rub through a colander, and pour over nicely- fried mutton laid in a dish. 70. Beer anp Ham Rissoxzs. Mince equal parts of beef and bread, half the quantity of ham, and a fourth part of finely- chopped suet. Add pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a well-beaten egg; mix all well together, ‘and roll into balls; flour well, and fry in boiling fat. Serve with thick brown gravy. 71. Saare with Macaroni. Boil some macaroni tender, cut it up into quarter of an inch lengths, stick them, hole out- wards, thickly all over a well-buttered plain round-topped basin; fill the basin with mince: No. ‘35, cover with a floured cloth, and boil half an hour; turn out, and serve with or without brown gravy. 72. Murron Pre (& l’'Irlandais). Cut nice pieces of mutton, lay them in a pie- dish, and season well. Take some stock, put in it six onions and eight potatoes, put the lid on, and set it to stew gently for half an hour; lift them into the pie-dish,. boil the gravy down to the quantity required to fill the pie. Cover it with potato paste as in No. 32, and bake half an hour. Serve with a boat of gravy. 78. Murron Pre witn APries. Proceed as for the above, and add to each layer of meat a layer of apples peeled and sliced; mix-into the gravy some tomato sauce, » cover with a pie-crust, bake half an hour or till the crust is done, and serve. .. 74, Murrow Prus (i la Windsor). Cut a pound of mutton into..small pieces, season with chopped mushrooms, parsley, shal- lots; pepper'and salt, and a little brown gravy, stir gentlyitogether; raise small pie-shapes with hot-water.crust, fill with the mixture, cover, and .bake till the crust is done .thoroughly.. ‘The following. will be found a good method for making the crust:—Put one pound of flour in a basin, make a hollow, put half an ounce of salt and half a pint of boiling, water in which four ounces of lard, butter, or Australian fat has been melted, pour it on boiling; mix together into a firm paste, kneading well, put in small lumps on a paste-board to cool. When just nicely warm take a lump and work it into the shape of pork _Pies—some people find it easier to work it up round a floured pot or wooden mould. 75. Smauu Pres Ratsenp. _Prepare a sufficient quantity of mince No. 31 to fill the number of pies you require to, make, also some hot-water crust (No. 74); raise - small shapes the size of a threepenny veal pie, fill with the mince, cover, and bake till the crust is done. - “76. Ratsep Pre. Cut into dice equal parts of ham, beef, and bacon, season well, and-filla raised pie-shape. Bake well, and when baked pour into the pie through a funnel a little melted jelly from the Australian meat well seasoned. Let the pie get cold before cutting it, 77. Parrrgs. Prepare mince No. 31. Make some light paste, line patty pans, fill—but not too full— with. mince, wet the edges and cover with paste, brush over with a beaten-up yolk of egg, and bake in a quick oven till the crust is done; pile up on a hot dish on a napkin, and garnish with small crisp bits of parsley. , 78. Sausace Rotts. Make some light paste, roll out thin (about a quarter of an inch thick), cut into pieces five inches square, wet the edges, lay a skinned sausage in it just close enough to leave half an inch of paste beyond the sausage; fold over and pinch the edges neatly together, brush over with yolk of egg well beaten, and bake. 79. Baxep Pir. Make two pounds of short paste, line a but- tered oblong tin mould, fill the pie with alter- nate layers of beef, mutton, bacon, and sliced apples, season between each layer with pepper and salt, chopped onion (boiled), and chopped sage-leaves; pour over it a little good gravy, cover with paste, cut it evenly round, mark it round with the paste-nippers, and after brushing over with egg bake till the crust is quite done. 80. German Fritters. To three-quarters of a pound of flour add two of butter dissolved in half a pint of beer (this should not be used till tepid), one tea- spoonful of salt, the beaten yolks of two eggs; mix together, pouring the beer in by degrees. Work well, set aside for an hour or so, and when about to. add the whites whipped to a froth, fry as omelettes, and lay mince'No. 31 or force- meat No. 15 in them; fold over, and serve four or five on a dish, side by side, with a garnish of parsley. : 81. Vor-au-VENT. . a Make some very light puff paste. Line a well-buttered fluted dish or tin, fill with the following mixture cooked over the fire till TIN ( 976 ) TIN more than half done :—-Half a pound of minced beef, half a pound of minced ham, two hard- boiled eggs cut up small, and half a pound of any kind of game meat or rabbit cut fine. Season highly; stir over the fire with a gill of good cream and one ounce of butter till nearly cooked ; then add a little lemon-juice and nutmeg and a tea-spoonful of anchovy. Bake covered with greased paper till -half- done. 82. Rice (Turkish Fashion). Boil the rice as in recipe No. 36. Fry the rice with butter, cayenne, and saffron powder ; season with salt, and throw in a handful of cleansed Smyrna raisins. Put this rice as a . border to the curry prepared as in No. 8. 83. Ricz (Polish Fashion). Cut an onion into very thin slices, and fry in a pan with butter, then add two ounces of cooked ham cut in shreds and six ounces of Australian meat cut in dice. Take the rice as prepared in No. 36, season with a pinch of cayenne pepper and a table-spoonful of grated cheese. Stir all together lightly over the fire, and serve quite hot. 84. Rice (Milanese Fashion). Fry the rice (see No. 36) in a pan with butter, season with grated cheese; add six ounces of Australian meat cut in dice, half a pint of boiled and picked shrimps (lobster or crab will do), season, and serve hot with a tea-spoonful of anchovy stirred in. 85. Rice (Spanish Fashion). Fry the rice (sce No. 36) till of a golden colour in oil, using only just enough to fry it; then add either a large table-spoonful of prepared tomato sauce or two large ripe red tomatoes squeezed free from seeds and watery juice through a wire sieve. Season with Spanish sauce, pepper, and grated cheese. Pile up lightly in a hot dish, and garnish round with curry No. 8. 86. Francipane or Murron. Steam some good mealy potatoes, skin them, mash them till smooth, put them into a sauce- pan with three eggs. Stir all together till cool enough to make them up with the hand. Take the marrow from a beef-bone, cut it up as suet, take a quarter of a pound of mutton cut into tiny dice, a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, season it well, and pour in two table-spoonfuls of cream, mix well together; flour the hands, and roll a small bit of the frangipane into a ball, hollow it with the flat part of a spoon, fill it with the mince, close it up, flour well, and when you have enough for a small dish fry them till light brown, or bake in quick oven. Serve hot, garnished with parsley. 87. Cakes or Mzar. Prepare some mince ; to each table-spoonful of mince add one tea-spoonful of bread-crumbs, enough egg to bind them, a little finely-chopped parsley, and pepper and salt’to taste. Take a bit of the mince in floured hands, roll it ina ball, then flatten it into a cake, dip in egg and seasoned bread-crumbs, and bake in a quick oven. Serve with a little good gravy and fried bacon in strips. : " 88. GATEAU DE Baur. Take two pounds at least of beef, one of ham, mince them up fine, and season well. Take an ox foot, and boil till the foot separates. Take it out, and cut off all the meat, and mince and season it. Lay it in a round tin that has béen wetted with vinegar, boil up the liquor, and pour it over till quite full and well soaked into the meat. When cold turn out, and it will eat like brawn. 89. Mapras Curry. Take two large onions, and slice and fry them. Fry the meat you mean to curry, cut into small dice, in the same pan, first taking out the onions; stir into it a pint of good gravy well seasoned, two table-spoonfuls of curry powder, and a little salt; add it to the meat, and stew gently twenty minutes. When nearly done add the juice of a lemon, and serve up with boiled rice No. 36. 90. VinacaRret or BEEr. Cut small thin slices of boiled beef, put them in a salad-bowl with sliced beetroot, quarters of hard-boiled eggs, and cold kidney potatoes; season with pepper and salt, three table-spoon- fuls of salad oil, two of vinegar, chopped shallot and parsley; mix and pour over. Serve for lunch or made-up dinner. ~ 91. GATEaU AUSTRALIEN, Take a pie-dish, and butter it; cut hard- boiled eggs in slices, lay them round the sides of the dish and at the bottom. Then put slices of beef and mutton, and ham and bacon, and spread sliced pickles over each layer, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; pour over it some good rich well-seasoned gravy in which one ounce of gelatine has been dissolved ; let it stand till cold, turn out, and garnish with parsley. 92. TimBALE DE Macaroni. Boil some macaroni in water and one ounce of butter; when it has boiled a few minutes strain off the water, and return it to the stew- pan with half a pint of stock; boil slowly ona stove till tender. Then add to it some diced mutton well seasoned, and a little grated cheese; _ } make all hot together, then set to cool. Butter a mould, well sprinkle with bread-crumbs, and line with common puff paste; put in the meat and macaroni quite cold, cover with paste, and. bake in a rather slow oven. When done, turn it out of the mould, cut off the top, and pour white sauce over and in the dish. 93. CaRROLE DE Ris. Boil the rice (see No. 36), put it into a pan with a good slice of ham and an onion, and stew it over a gentle fire till tender. Have ready a mould lined with very thin slices of bacon. Mix the yolks of three eggs with the rice, and then line. the bacon with it about half an inch thick. Put into it a ragoit of either beef or mutton or Australian rabbit. Fill up the mould, and cover close with rice. Bake it in the oven an hour, turn it on to a dish, and send it to table with gravy or curry sauce. 94, Suicep Beer wirn Mayonnaise Sauce. Lay trimly-cut slices of beef on a meat-dish with a little very finely-scraped horseradish here and there over it. Spread over it thin TIN (977) TIN slices of cold boiled beetroot. Pour over a mayonnaise sauce made thus:—Take a basin, place therein three yolks of eggs, a little pepper and salt, and stir quickly with a wooden spoon. Work into it by slow degrees half a pint of salad oil and half a gill of tarragon vinegar. If it is well made it should be firm and creamy. This quantity is enough for a very large dish. 95. Larpep Beer. Turn out a shape of beef with a larding- needle, put strips of fat bacon through from side to side. Serve when cold with garnish of parsley. 96. Sticep Beer anp Cucumper. Lay thin slices of mutton or beef in a meat- dish, cut very thin slices of cucumber, and if wished a few sliced onions or shallots. Mix equal parts of oil and vinegar; shake them in the bottle. When well mixed put the cu- cumber into a basin, pour the oil and vinegar over, stir till the cucumber is well covered with it, pepper, and pour it over the beef. 97. GrrMan Sauap. Put in a salad-bowl a pound of beef cut in dice, also one finely-chopped onion, two ounces of red cabbage pickle, a pickled walnut chopped, two gherkins chopped, three ounces of boiled beetroot sliced and cold, two large white let- tuces, a little endive cut very fine, a little tarragon, chervil, a leaf or two of dandelion, half a dozen of sorrel, two large potatoes boiled and cut in slices cold, two sliced hard-boiled eggs, three table-spoonfuls of oil, six table- spoonfuls of vinegar, a tea-spoonful of sugar, two tea-spoonfuls of mustard, and a pint of claret or Rhenish wine. Mix all well together, and decorate the top with a few shapes cut in beetroot. 98. Murron ann PicKkzs: Turn out a 41b. shape of Australian mutton. Garnish the dish round with slices of red beet- root and little heaps of red cabbage pickle. 99. Corp SHaps. Take two pounds of beef or mutton., Melt one ounce of Nelson’s Gelatine, and add to it a tea-cupful of brown gravy or stock. Cut a hard-boiled egg into round slices, and line the bottom of a mould with it. Chop up some slices of fat bacon, season with pepper, salt, and a very little allspice ; add this to the meat <¢ With a little more liquid; place all in a stew- pan, and finish cooking. When done pour the whole into the mould and let it get quite cold. Dip in hot water the next day, and it will slide out at once. Garnish with a border of parsley. 100. Spicep Beer. Turn out a shape of beef of six pounds’ weight. To answer properly it should be a firm good shape with plenty of jelly round. It must be cut in rounds three inches thick— this will make three rounds. Lay them in a dish three inches deep, cover them with this mixture:—One ounce of pepper, one ounce of salt, half an ounce of nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of allspice. Melt all the jelly, put the rounds back intact into their own tin, one over the other. To accomplish this you must press each round down separately with a piece of 62—n.z. wood that just fits inside the tin. When it is all firmly pressed in, pour (by degrees to let it soak in) all round the edge the melted jelly well seasoned. Let the shape stand to. get cold. If.it will not turn out easily, dip it in hot water. The following are the names of the foregoing recipes arranged in alphabetical order for easy reference :— Australien, GAteau, 91 Baked Pie, 79 Balls, Forcemeat, 16 Beef and Ham Ris- soles, 70 Beef and Haricot Beans, 57 Beef and Kidney Pud- ding, 22 : Beef and Kidneys, 6 Beef and Tomato Sauce, 64 Beef e Diable), 10 Beef (au Fromage), 29 Beef (au Gratin), 31 Beef (au Macaroni), 30 Beef Collops, 53 Beef Fried in Batter, 27 Beef Fried with Suet Dumplings, 23 Beef, Gateau of, 88 Beef, Larded, 95 Beef, Miroton of, 58 Beef, Spiced, 100 Beef, Sliced and Cu- cumber, 96 Beef, Sliced, with Mayonnaise Sauce, 94 Beef Tea, 2 Beef, Vinagaret of, 90 Beef with Savoury Pudding, 28 Beef with Sheep's Liver, 61 Boiled Pudding, 13 Bologna Sausages, 19 Bouillabaisse, 52 Breast of Mutton (& l’Australienne), 50 Broth, Mutton, 3 Bubble and Squeak, 51 Cakes of Meat, 87 Capilotade of Beef or Mutton, 56 Carrole de Riz, 93 Chimney, Smoking, 60 Cold Shape, 99 Collops (&@ la Sauce Robert), 54 Collops, Beef, 53 Cucumber, Stuffed, 66 Curried Mutton, 8 Curried Mutton, Dry, 9 Curry, Madras, 89 Forcemeat, 15 Forcemeat Balls, 16 Forcemeat Pudding, 14 Forcemeat, Toad in a Hole, 20 Frangipane of Mutton, 86 Fried Meats, 49 Fritadella with White Sauce, 47 Fritadellas, 48 Fritters, German, 80. . Gateau, Australien, 91 Gateau of Beef, 88 German Fritters, 80 German Salad, 97 Ham_ Rissoles, Beef and, 70 Haricot Beans, Beef and, 57 Haricot of Mutton, 7 Irish Stew, 6 Kidney Pudding, Beef and, 22 Kidneys, Beef and, 63 Larded Beef, 95 Meat, Cakes of, 87 Meat with. Potato Cover, 32 Meats, Fried, 49 Mince and Spinach, 43 Mince in Scallops, 41 Mince, Omelet and, 44 : Mince on Toast, 39 Mince Tart, Open, 40 Mince with Hard- boiled Eggs, 46 Mince with Kale, cannon, 67 Mince with Poached Eggs, 42 Mutton and Pickles, 98 Mutton, Breast of (a YAustralienne), 50 Mutton Broth, 3 Mutton, Curried, 8 Mutton, Dry Curried, 9 Mutton, Frangipane of, 86 Mutton Fried with Suet Pudding, 24 Mutton, Haricot of, 7 Mutton Pie (a 1'Irlan- dais), 72 Mutton-Pie with Ap- ples, 73 Mutton-Pies (@ la Windsor), 74 Mutton with Bacon, 26 Mutton with Oclery Sauce, 69 Mutton with French Beans, 59 Mutton with Onion Sauce, 68 TIP (978°) TOA Mutton with Sausages e 25 Omelet and Mince, 44 ° Peas, Hachis with, 46 Patties, 77 - Pea Soup, 5 Pie, Baked, 79 Pie, Potatoe, 33° Pie, Raised, 76 Pies, Mutton, 72, 74 Pies, Small Raised, 75: Polish Rice, 83 Potato. ‘Cover, Meat - with, 32° Potato Pie, 83: - Potato Rissoles; 35 Potato Wall, 34 Pudding (au: Gratin), 12 : Pudding, Boiled, 13 Pudding, Forcemeat, 14 Pudding, Roll, 11 — Pudding, Sausage, 18 Ragott de’ Milan, 55 Raised Pie, 76 Rice, Carrole of, 93 Rice. Rissoles, 36 Rice, Milanese, 84 Rice, Polish, 83 Rice, Spanish, 85 Rice(Turkish Fashion), 82 BS ge ; Rissolés, 37; Potato, 35 Rissoles, Rice, 36 Rissolette, 38 Roll Pudding, 11 ‘Salad! German;'97 ’ Sausdge Pudding, '18 ‘Sausage Rolls,'78 - Sausages; 17) Sausages,” Bologna,’ 19' Shape with Macaroni,- a ee : cers Heart, Stuffed, de BOR alg gate Ue Sheep’s Liver,. Beef 4 with; 6.) a . Sebi Smoking Chimney; 60 ~ Soup, Julienne, 4 ~ bs Soup, Pea; 5° | Soup with Forcemeat _ Balls, 1 Squeak, Bubble ‘and, 51 a Pecan Stew, Irish, 6°. ~ Stuffed Cucumber, 66 Suet ‘Pudding; Mutton Fried with, 24° Tart, Open Mince, 40 Timbale’ de: Macaroni, 92. oe Toad in a Mole;:21 Toad in a Hole''Force- -meat, 20° Tomato Sauce, Beef and; 64 0 Vegetable “Marrow, Stuffed, 65 (> Vol-au-Vent, 81- Wall, Potato, 34 Whité « Sauce, Frita- della with, ‘47, < ‘Tipsy Bread.—Tako' a stale roll. Pare off the crust, and cut it into-rounds a.quarter of an inch thick. Spread a little jam on each side of these, and pile them one upon the: other in thé centre of a glass dish. Sift:powdered sugar thickly over them, and pour upon them as-much sherry as ‘they will absorb.'!Blanch two or three ounces of sweet almonds, cut them into shreds, and stick them all over the. surface of the bread. Pour'a good custard'round them, and set the dish aside until wanted. ‘Tipsy bread should: be made two or three hours:before a Dae es aes it is wanted.- ; ‘ TIPSY CAKE. Tipsy Cake.—Tuake a moulded sponge-or savoury cake three or four days old. Cut it quite level at the bottom, so that it will stand firmly on the dish, pierce it in several placcs with a skewer-or knitting needle, and pour | over it as much sweet wine mixed with two ‘ wint-plassfuls of brandy as it will absorb. Take up-the liquor that flows into the dish, and pour it-over again and again until the cake is quite soaked. Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, split them into spikes, and stick them all over the cake. Pour round it a rich cold boiled custard; and it will-beready for serving. Some- times the juice of: half a-lemon is mixed with -|'the wine and brandy. . Time, two hours to soak the cake. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and brandy, 2s., if the custard is made with ‘milk. Sufficient fora dish. . Tipsy Cake (simple, for children).-Take a dozen small stale sponge cakes, spread a little jam on each; and arrange them in a pile’in the centre of a deep glass dish.. Pour over them as much raisin-wine as they will absorb, and keep putting it over them till'they are soaked. Pour round them a pint:of nicely-flavoured cold cus- tard, and ornament the dish with dried’ fruits cut in slices. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for adish, Tiverton Pudding.— Beat four eggs till they are very light. Mix smoothly with them three dessert-spoonfuls of fine’ flour, and add a table-spoonful of sugar, as much grated’ nutmeg and ginger as will together stand on a sixpence, and the grated rind of half a lemon. Bring a pint of milk to the point of boiling, pour \it upon the mixture, and stir it briskly fora minute or twof Wring a pudding-cloth out of boiling water. Flour it well, and tie the pudding in it. Plunge it at once into boiling water, and let it boil quickly until done enough. Serve with sweet or wine sauce. Time to boil, about an hour. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Toad #h the Hole.—Mix a pinch of salt with; four large. table-spoonfuls of flour. Beat this to a smooth. paste with two well-beaten eggs, and, add two-thirds of a pint, of; milk. The milk should be added very gradually, and the pudding should be well beaten so that there are no lumps, and it should be of the consistency of very thick cream, Cut a pound’ and a half of beefsteak and one or. two sheep’s kidneys, or a quarter of a pound of ox kidney, into pieces convenient for serving. Lay them at the bottom of a hot buttered dish, and pour the batter over them. Bake in a brisk oven. The batter will be better if it is ; made an hour or two before it is wanted, but it should be beaten up again at the last moment before it is poured over the meat. Mutton - chops, sausages, or a stuffed fowl may be sub- stituted for the steak and kidney, or a few mushrooms or oysters may be put with the meat, or even a small quantity of minced shallot. The remains of cold meat also maybe served in this way,and will be found. to be very good, though, of course, not so good as when fresh meat only is used. Some cooks fry the meat lightly, to brown it a little, before. putting it into the dish. Time to bake, from one hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, if made with steak, 2s.10d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Toast, Anchovy (see Anchovy Toast.’ TOA Toast .and.Water.—Toast .a'small slice of stale bread (crusty bread is the best) till it is brightly, browned all over without being in the least burnt. Pour over it a:quart of boil- ing water; and let it stand till cold.» Filter it, and put.it into a decanter. If the toast-water is quickly wanted, just cover the ‘bread with boiling water, and -when. that is cold, add as much cold filtered water as will fill the jug. Toast-water should be quite cold before it is presented to an invalid, as it is by no means an agreeable beverage when taken lukewarm or hot. Time to soak, half an hour. | . Toast, Buttered.—Toast which is to be buttered should -be cut,from.« loaf one or two days old, in slices about the third of an inch thick. Cut off the crust, and toast the bread before a clear bright fire. When it.is equally and lightly coloured on one side turn it to do thé other. Place little pieces of butter here and there upon it, put it before the fire for a minute or two fill the butter is soft, then spread it upon the toast, taking care not to press heavily upon the bread, or the toast will be heavy. Cut each slice separately into strips an inch and a half broad, and pile these on a hot dish. If one or two slices are cut through together, -the butter will sink from. the upper piece to the lower.: Some cooks hold the toasted bread over a bowl of boiling water. for a minute before battering it. This is to soften it, that it may take the butter more readily. Buttered toast should be prepared at the last moment, and served very hot. Toast, Buttered (another way). — See Buttered ‘Toast. Toast, Buttered, and Cheese.—Crush half a pound of old Cheshire cheese in a mortar, and pound with it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and a small tea-spoonful of mustard. Take a slice of bread half an inch thick, cut off the crust, and toast it on both sides. Spread the cheese- paste upon it, lay it upon a dish, and ‘put. it in a Dutch oven before a clear fire until the paste is melted. Serve very hot. Time to TOASTING FORKS. (979 ) TOA melt the cheese, about three or four minutes. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for two persons. Toast, Dry.—Be careful to have a clear bright fire, and see that the bars are quite clean. Cut as many slices as may be required from a loaf of bread two days old. hese slices should be very thin—less than a quarter of aninch thick. Cut off the crust, ‘atk warm the bread on both sides for one minute before toasting it; then put it on the toasting-fork, hold it a little distance from the fire, move it about. till it is lightly and. equally toasted, and when it is done upon one side turn it to do the other. Dry toast'should be coloured gradually, as its perfection consists in its being crisp. and dry without being very dark and brown or in the least burnt. It should be made a few minutes only before it is wanted, as it soon becomes. heavy. It should never: be placed jfat ona dish or. table, but be put. at once in the toast-rack, or, if this is not at hand, two slices should be made to lean one against another. It.is almost unnecessary to add that toast should never be made with now bread. Toast, Egg (see Egg Toast). Toast for Soup.—Cut a slice of thin bread, toast it lightly on both sides, and ct it into dice not larger than a quarter of an inch square. Throw these into a frying-pan with hot fat, and turn them about till they aré quite crisp. Lift them out with an egg-slice, and put them on an inverted sieve before’ the fire for a minute or two to drain them from the fat. Serve them on a separate dish. Time to fry the dice, about a minute. Toast, German (see German Toast). ' Toast, Ox Tongue (see Ox Tongue Toast—a breakfast relis ye Toast, Savoury.—Scale and bone two or three anchovies without washing them. Beat them ‘to a paste, and add a ‘pinch of cayenne or a little dry mustard and a'sniall lump of butter. Toast a slice of brown ‘bread, and butter it well. Spread the savoury paste upon it; and push it into the’ oven, or let it stand before the fire-for a minute or two ‘till it is very hot. Serve immediately. If liked, the yolk of an egg and a table-s oonful of cream may be mixed with the pounded anchovies, and the paste may be stirred over the fire for a short time till it is very hot without boiling. Toast, To prepare, for Roast Game.—Toast a slice of bread the third of an inch thick till it is brightly browned on both sides. Cut off the crust, hold it over a bowl of boiling water for a minute to imbibe the steam, and butter it well. Soak #4 in the dripping in the pan under the birds, and when these are ready, serve them uponit. = Toasts, Hamburg. — When a small quantity only of any savoury fricassee is left, it may be warmed up as follows:—Mince the meat finely, and put with it any seasoning that may bo required. Mix it with the sauce, and stir it over a gentle fire until it is thick. Draw it away from the fire for a minute, and mix with it the yolk of an ogg well beaten. Stir it over the fire again till it is hot without letting it boil. Turn it upon a dish, and let it get Y TOD ( 980 ) TOM cold. Take one. or two slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick. Toast them on both sides, and cut them into three-cornered pieces. Spread the savoury mince thickly upon them, and cover the surface with a hard-boiled egg chopped small. Squeeze the juice of alemon over them, and put them in a brisk oven for a minute or two till they are quite hot. Arrange them neatly on a dish, and garnish with parsley. Time altogether, about one hour. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the fricassee. Toddy, American.—Take the thin rind of two large lemons, and put it in a bowl with half a pound of sifted sugar and a pint of cold water, and let it soak until the liquor is plea- santly flavoured. Take out the rind, and in its place put a small quantity of fruit—three or tour large ripe strawberries, a slice of pine-apple, or a mellow peach peeled and sliced will answer excellently. Ten minutes before the toddy is served add a pint of best rum and a quarter of a pound of ice. ; Toffee.—Melt three ounces of fresh butter in a small brass saucepan over a clear, bright fire. As soon as it is dissolved, stir into it one pound of good brown sugar, and keep stirring until it is done enough. In order to .ascertain when this point is reached, let a cup of cold water be placed close at hand, and keep drop- ing a little of the toffee into it. When the offee thus dropped hardens immediately, and breaks between the teeth without sticking to them it is done, and must be poured out at once or it will burn. The flavour of this toffee may be pleasantly varied by stirring into it a tea- spoonful of slightly moistened powdered ginger, or the grated rind of a small lemon. Pour the toffee upon a buttered dish, and put it in a cool lace to set. ‘Time to boil, fifteen to twenty- ve minutes. Probable cost, this quantity, 8d. Toffee, Almond.—Melt five ounces of fresh butter in a small brass saucepan over a clear fire, and when it is dissolved stir into it a pound of good brown sugar, and let the mixture boil for a quarter of an hour. Have ready pre- pared two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched, halved, and dried. Throw them into the toffee, and let it boil after they are added until it hardens-instantly when dropped into cold water, and breaks between the teeth without sticking to them. When this point is reached, turn the toffee out immediately or it will burn. Pour it upon buttered dishes. Or blanch an ounce of sweet almonds, divide them jnto strips, and dry them thoroughly in a cool oven or before the fire. Boil 1 pound of sugar. in half a pint of water till it is dissolved, then throw in an ounce of butter. Boil the toffee until it hardens instantly when dropped into cold water. Pour it on a buttered dish or oiled slab, and add the sliced almonds after the toffee is poured upon the dish. When nearly cold, mark it out in squares with the back of a knife. Time, fifteen to thirty minutes. Toffee, Almond (another way). — See Almond Toffy. Toffee, Everton (sce Everton Toffee). Tomato.—The tomato or love apple is a fruit much valued in cookery for sauces, soups, gravies, and ketchup. It is about the size of a potato, It comes into season in April, and continues until frost sets in. It possesses a very peculiar flavour, and when liked at all is generally very highly esteemed. When fresh truit is not in season, tinned tomatoes may be used. The large tomatoes are the best for stewing and for sauces, and ‘the small ones for pickling. TOMATOES. Tomato (au Gratin)—Cut half a dozen tomatoes in halves, remove the pips, and fill the inside with a mixture of bread-crumbs, pepper, and salt, in due proportions. Place a small piece of butter on each half tomato, and. lay them then close together in a well-buttered tin. Bake in a slow oven for about half an hour, then serve. They may be eaten hot or cold. Tomato Beef. — Take three pounds of lean beef, cut into large steaks; lay it in the stewpan with seven or eight nice ripe tomatoes, a spoonful of water, and a finely-chopped onion. Stew slowly for one hour and a half. Add salt, pepper, cloves, and just before dishing, a piece of butter as large as an egg, and half a gill of ketchup. Tomato Ketchup.—aA small glassful of tomato ketchup stirred into half a pint of melted butter or gravy may be used instead of tomato sauce. Take two quarts of small ripe tomatoes, cut them into slices, lay them in a deep pan, ” and sprinkle amongst them four ounces of salt. Let them lie for twenty-four hours. Pour the juice from them, and boil it with four ounces of shallots and a dozen and a half small capsicums. Press the tomatoes through a sieve, stir the pulp into the juice, and let it boil half an hour longer. Pour the ketchup into warm bottles whilst it is warm. Cork securely, and seal the corks. Time, two days. Tomato Ketchup (another way).—Take any quantity of very ripe tomatoes, and cut them into slices. Put a layer into a deep jar, sprinkle a little salt over it, add another layer and a little more salt, and repeat this until the tomatoes are all used. The quantity of salt required will be about two ounces of salt TOM (981 ) TOM for a quart of tomatoes. Put the jar in a warm place, and stir the fruit every now and then for three days. At the end of that time press the tomatoes through a sieve. Measure the juice, and boil it with a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, eight cloves, a blade of mace, a tea- spoonful of powdered ginger, and half an ounce of allspice to each quart of juice. Pour it while warm into warm bottles, and when it is quite cold cork up securely. At the end of three months boil it again, adding fresh spice ac- cording to taste. Cork it up again, and store for use. ‘Time to boil the juice with the spice, a quarter of an hour. Tomato Ketchup (another way).—Boil one bushel of good tomatoes -until soft, then squeeze through a fine wire sieve. Add halfa gallon of vinegar, a few ounces of salt, two ounces of cloves, a quarter of .2 pound of all- spice, an ounce and a half of cayenne pepper, three table-spoonfuls of black pepper, and five heads of garlic skinned and separated. Mix and boil three hours or until reduced one-half, and bottle without straining. The garlic may de omitted. Tomato Marmalade.—Weigh the fruit, and take as many ounces of sugar as there are pounds of tomatoes. Put this sugar into a preserving-pan, place it upon a gentle fire, and stir until it melts and acquires a light- brown colour. Throw into it three or four onions finely minced, allowing one small onion for each pound of tomatoes. When these are slightly browned, put into the pan the tomatoes cut into quarters, and add a slight seasoning of pepper, salt, powdered mace, and grated nut- meg. Boil all together till the tomatoes are reduced to pulp, strain the juice through a sieve, and boil it quickly until it will jelly when a small portion is poured upon a plate. Put the marmalade into jars, and cover with double layers of very thick paper. Time, two and a half to three hours. Tomato Omelet.—Take four ripe toma- toes, peel them, and chop them small. Beat a large table-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste with a little milk. Add six well-beaten eggs, a little pepper and salt, and the tomatoes. Fry the omelet in the usual way, and fold it over if liked, but do not turn it. Time to fry, five or six minutes. Probable cost, about 10d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Tomato Purée (for roast beef, mutton, pork, &c).—Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, slice off the stalks and the part that adheres to them, squeeze out the pips, break them into pieces, and put them into a stewpan with three or four spoonfuls of good brown gravy and a little salt and cayenne. Let them boil; put with them an onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf, and simmer them very gently until they are quite soft. Take out the herbs, and rub the tomatoes through a fine hair sieve. ‘Dissolve an ounce of butter in a sauce- pan, and mix a tea-spoonful of flour smoothly with it. Add a spoénful or two of gravy and the tomato pulp, and stir the purée over the fire for five or six minutes. Serve very hot. Time to stew the tomatoes, about an hour. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound.. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tomato Purée (for veal cutlets, calf's head, &c.).—Simmer the tomatoes in good gravy till soft, as in the last recipe. Take out the herbs, and rub them through a sieve. Mix an ounce of clarified butter with a tea-spoonful of flour to a smooth paste; add gradually two or three spoonfuls of thick cream and the tomato pulp. Stir the purée over the fire for a few minutes, and serve very hot. Time to stew the tomatoes, about an hour. Probable cost, toma- toes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tomato Sauce for present use (to serve with cutlets, roast meats, &c.).—Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut them in halves, and press the seeds and the watery part from them. Put them in a stewpan with a quarter of a pint of gravy or strong broth and a quarter of a salt- spoonful of cayenne. Let them stew softly until they are melted. Press them through a fine sieve, and put the pulp back into the stewpan with half a tea-spoonful of salt. Let it simmer gently for a few minutes, and serve very hot. If liked, a blade of mace, two or three shallots, and two cloves may be stewed with the tomatoes, but most lovers of tomatoes prefer that they should retain their distinctive character, and consider that tomato sauce is spoilt if it is fla- voured with other ingredients. Tomatoes vary so much in size and juiciness that it is difficult to give the exact quantity of liquor required for them. It should be remembered, however, that the sauce should be of the consistency of thick cream, and that if it is too thick a little more gravy should be added: if too thin, it should be boiled down very quickly for a short time. Time to simmer the tomatoes, about an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 4d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Tomato Sauce (another way).—Melt in a stewpan a dozen or two ripe tomatoes (which, before putting into the stewpan, cut in two, and squeeze the juice and the seeds out). Then put two shallots, one onion, with a few bits of ham, a clove, u little thyme, a bay-leaf, a few leaves of mace, and when melted rub them through a tamis. Mix a few spoonfuls of good Espagnole und a little salt and pepper with this purée. Boil it for twenty minutes, and serve. Tomato Sauce (another way).—When gravy or stock is not at hand, tomatoes may be sliced and stewed with a little butter, cayenne, and salt. If dressed in this way, they should be pulped through a sieve just as if they had been simmeredin gravy, and a little vinegar may be added to them if liked. Tomato Sauce (another way).—Halve a dozen ripe tomatoes, squeeze out the seeds, and put them into a jar or saucepan with a dessert- spoonful of lean ham cut into dice, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a large pinch of cayenne, a quarter of a pint of good gravy, or two or three ounces of butter, and either three sliced shallots or a dozen button mushrooms cleaned and cut into small pieces. Stir them over a gentle fire until they are quite soft, then press TOM ( 982) TOM them through a sieve, add a little’ salt, and-put the sauce again upon the fire till it is very hot. Serve it in a tureen. Time to simmer the tomatoes, about an hour. Probable’cost, toma- toes, 2d. to 4d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. ar ie Tomato Sauce, Mock.—Put a pint of water, a dessert-spoonful of vinegar, a good pinch of salt, and a large lump of sugar into a saucepan, and let it boil. Throw into it the red part only of four large carrots, and let them boil until quite soft. Take them up with an egg-slice, and rub them through a sieve. Put the pulp into a preserving-pan with three table- spoonfuls of ale, a quarter of a pint of vinegar, a sour apple, half a dozen shallots’ pared and minced finely, a pinch of salt and cayenne, and as much mustard and powdered mace as will lie on a sixpence. Stir this mixture oyer a gentle fire for nearly half an hour. Let it get cold, put it into bottles, and cork down securely. It will keep for three or four weeks. Or boil a dozen sour apples, pared and cored, till tender. Rub them through a sieve, colour the pulp with turmeric, stir a little vinegar into it to give it an acid taste, and flavour with salt and cayenne. Tomato Store Sauce.—Take a dozen ripe tomatoes, put them in an earthen jar, and set them in a cool oven until they are quite soft.. Take off the skins and stalks, mix with the tomatoes the liquor that flowed from them when baked, and add a dessert-spoonful of salt, w dessert-spoonful of powdered ginger; a pinch of cayenne, and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, put the sauce into dry wide-mouthed bottles, snd store in « cool dry place. Examine and taste it at the end of a week or a fortnight, and if it does not seem as if it would keep, boil it. again with a little more cayenne and ginger. This sauce will keep for along time. It will not be properly flavoured till ten days or a fortnight after it is made, though it may be used at once. Some cooks add a head of garlic to the other ingredients, but this is not generally liked. Time, four or five hours. : Tomato Store Sauce (another way).— Put as many tomatoes as are agreeable into an earthen jar, set them in a slow oven, and let them bake gently until quite soft. Rub them through a fine sieve, and weigh the pulp. With every pound put an ounce of white pepper, an ounce of salt, half an ounce of cayenne, half an ounce of minced shallot or onion, and a quart of strong vinegar. Boil the whole till it is as thick as cream, let it get cool, put it into dry wide-mouthed bottles, cork closely, and store in a cool dry place. Half an ounce of garlic may be added or not to the other ingredients. Time, about four or five hours. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Tomato Store Sauce (another way).— Take two dozen tomatoes, and bake them in a slow oven till quite soft. Rub them. through a sieve, and weigh them. Put a pint of vinegar into. a saucepan with one ounce of minced shallots, half an ounce of salt, half an ounce of white pepper, and six capsicums—a small quan- tity of cayenne may be substituted for these: Let the vinegar boil for eight or ten minutea— it will be sufficient for two pounds of pulp. Mix the vinegar and the tomatoes together,and add the juice that flowed from the fruit in baking and the strained juice of a small lemon. Put the mixture again into the saucepan, and stir it over a gentle fire till itis as thick as cream. Turn it out, and let it get cold. Put it into dry wide-mouthed bottles, and cork these down securely. Half an ounce of bruised garlic may be added or not. Time, four or five hours. Tomato Store Sauce (another way).— Gather the tomatoes on a dry day, when they are. quite ripe and red. Lay them in an earthen jar, put them into a cool oven, and let them remain all night, or until they are quite soft without being broken. Skin them, and rub them through a sieve. With every pint of pulp put half an ounce of bruised shallots, a quarter of an ounce of bruised garlic, a little salt, and half.a pint of chilli vinegar, or half a pint of white-wine vinegar, and a little cayenne. Boil these ingredients together until the onions are soft. Rub the whole again through. a sieve, add the juice of a lemon, and boil'it again for ten minutes, stirring all the time. Put it into small dry bottles, and cork and seal these securely. The juice which flows from the fruit in baking must be added to the sauce. Time\ ten or twelve hours. , Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound., Tomato Store Sauce (excellent).—Cut four pounds of tomatoes into slices, and put them into a saucepan with two large onions sliced, one pound of Demerara sugar, a quarter of a pound of salt, two ounces of peppercorns, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, half an ounce of cloves, and six. ounces of allspice. Pour a pint of vinegar over the ingredients, and let them boil gently for two hours. Stir frequently to keep zxem from burning. Rub them through a fine sieve, and as soon as the pulp is cold bottle it securely. Store in a cool dry place. Time, two hours. & Tomato Soup.—Slice two large onions into a saucepan, with two turnips, two carrots, and five or six outer sticks of celery. Put with these four ounces of lean ham cut into dice, and two ounces of fresh butter, and steam them over a gentle fire for half an hour. Pour over them two quarts of stock. or liquor in’ which meat has been boiled, and add six. or eight ripe tomatoes. Let all simmer gently together for a couple of hours. Rub the vegetables through. a sieve, and boil them again with the liquor for a few minutes, add pepper and salt to taste, and serve very hot. Send bread toasted and cut in dice to table ona separate dish. A little tomato pulp may be added to any vegetable soup when the flavour is liked. Time, three to four hours. Probable cost, 6d. to 10d. per pint. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Tomatoes (au Gratin).—Dissolve an ounce of fresh butter in a stewpan, and mix half an ounce of flour smoothly with it. Stir it-with a wooden ee over @ gentle fire for two minutes, then add very gradually three-quarters of @ pint of good stock. Let it boil gently till it is TOM ( 983 ) TOM yeduced to rather less than halfa pint: Putin with it a table-spoonful of chopped onion, three table-spoonfuls: of finely-shred .parsley, and a. little: pepper and salt, and boil: it quickly for ten, minutes. Take eight or:ten large ripe tomatoes. Slice off the stalks and the part that adheres to them, and make a round hole in the top the sizé of a shilling. Scoop out the seeds through’ this, and fill their place with the prepared sauce. Set them carefully in a paking-tin, the stalk end uppermost, with two ounces ‘of butter, and sprinkle bread-crumbs lightly over them. Put them in a brisk oven, and bake them for ten minutes, Serve very hot. Time to make the: stuffing, about one hour. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. - 6 Tomatoes, Australian Meat and (sce Australian Meat, &c.). Tomatoes, Baked.—Slice the stalks from six or eight ripe tomatoes with the green part that adheres to them. Season with pepper and salt, and ‘sprinkle .bread-crumbs thickly over them. . Divide about two ounces of fresh butter into little pieces, and place these here and there upon them. Bake in a moderate oven. Serve on a hot dish as an accompaniment to roast meat of all kinds. If liked, the toma- toes may be cut into slices, or into halves, in- stead of being baked whole, and they will not then require so much time for baking. Time to bake, from twenty to thirty minutes—till they are quite soft without breaking. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, toma- toes, 2d. to 4d. per pound. : Tomatoes, Baked (another way).—Take five or six large ripe tomatoes, plunge them for one minute into boiling water, take them out, remove the thin skin, divide them in halves, and squeeze out the seeds. Mix a salt- spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of white pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and a little grated nutmeg, into two ounces of fresh butter. Arrange the tomatoes in a single layer on a baking-dish, the cut side uppermost; put an equal portion of the seasoned butter on each, and bake ina brisk oven. When done enough pour the juice of a lemon over them, lay them upon hot buttered toast, and pour over them the gravy which is in the dish with them. Serve very hot. Time to bake, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d: per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Tomatoes for Garnish Tomatoes for). Tomatoes, Fowl Braised with (see Fowl Braised with Tomatoes). Tomatoes, Pickled.—This pickle is very good with roast meat, cold or hot. Take two dozen small ripe tomatoes; prick each one in two or three places, carefully preserve the juice that flows from them, and keep it in a covered ‘vessel until wanted. Put the tomatoes in layers in a.deep earthen jar, and sprinkle a little salt; between each layer.’ Cover the pan, and let'the tomatoes remain undisturbed for three days. At the end of that time wash them well from the brine and dry them care- (see Garnish, fully. Put them into jars,and cover them with vinegar which has been boiled and allowed to get cold. Add the juice which flowed from the fruit in the first instance, and cover the jars closely. ‘The: pickle will be ready for use in about a fortnight. The following spices should be boiled with the vinegar for: this quantity of tomatoes :—Half an ounce of pepper; half an ounce of cloves, and a heaped table-spoonful of mustard-seed. Sometimes minced: onions or minced, celery, or both, are put into the jars with the tomatoes. Time, four days. Tomatoes Preserved.—Cut the toma- toes into pieces, and simmer them gently over a‘ slow fire till they are reduced to a pulp. Squeeze the’ juice from this pulp, boil it until it is as thick as cream, and then pour it into small bottles. Place these in a large. boiler with cold water up to their necks. -Bring the water to the boil, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour, then lift the bottles from the fire, ‘and Jet them remain in the water till it is cold. Cork securely, and wax the corks. Store in a ech place. Time to boil, a quarter of an our. . Tomatoes, Roast.—Take six or eight small ripe tomatoes. Slice off the stalks and the parts that adhere to them. Put them in a Dutch oven, place them before the fire, and roast them until done enough.’ Serve on a hot dish as an accompaniment to roast meat. If it:is more convenient they may be, placed at the edge of the dripping-tin instead of in the Dutch oven, but care must be taken that the fat from the joint does not fall upon them. Time to roast, twelve to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. _ Tomatoes, Stewed.—Take six or eight ripe red tomatoes. Remove the stalks, , slice the fruit, and put the slices into a lined sauce- pan. Season with pepper and salt, and place about two ounces of butter divided into little pieces here and there amongst them. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the tomatoes gently until they are quite tender. Stir them two or three times, and serve on a hot dish as an accompaniment to roast meat. A spoon- ful or two of vinegar will be an improvement. Time to stew the, tomatoes, about twenty minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tomatoes, Stewed (Portuguese way). —Slice half a dozen ripe tomatoes, season with pepper and salt, and put little pieces of butter here and there upon them. Mince two onions finely, sprinkle them over the tomatoes, cover the saucepan closely, and steam them for a quarter of an hour. Afterwards pour a quarter of a, pint of good brown gravy over them, stir frequently, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Have ready a uarter of a pound of freshly-boiled rice. Stir this in with the tomatoes, and mix the ingredients thoroughly. Turn the whole upon a hot dish, and send a little more brown sauce to table in a tureen. Time, about one hour to stew the tomatoes. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. TOM ( 984 ) TON Tomatoes, Stewed Whole.—Take six or eight ripe tomatoes of medium size. Remove the stalks, and arrange the fruit in a stewpan in a single. layer. Pour over them as much good brown gravy as will reach to half their height, stew them gently until they are done enough, and turn them over carefully once or twice that they may be equally cooked. Thicken the gravy with a little flour and butter, season with pepper and salt, and let it boil two or three minutes after the thickening is added. Serve the tomatoes very hot with the sauce round them. Time to stew, twenty. to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. . Tomatoes, Stuffed.—Choose half a dozen large tomatoes of uniform size. , Slice off the stalks and the green parts round them, and scoop out the pips without breaking the sides of the fruit. Make a stuffing: as follows :— Mince two ounces of fat bacon, and put it into astewpan with half a dozen mushrooms chopped small, a handful of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, three or four shallots, all chopped, and a little pepper and salt. Stir this mixture over a gentle fire for five minutes, then bind it together with the well-beaten yolks of three eggs. Fill the tomatoes with this stuffing, set them side by side in a sauté-pan, and pour in salad oil to the height of a quarter of an inch. Sprinkle bread-raspings lightly over the toma- toes, and place them on a brisk fire, holding a red-hot shovel over them, or bake them in a quick oven. Serve on a hot dish, and pour some good brown sauce round them. Time to fry the tomatoes, from ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 4d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Tomatoes, Stuffed (another way).— Take six or eight ripe red tomatoes of equal size. Cut off the tops and the green parts round them, and scoop out the insides. Press the pulp through a sieve, and mix ‘with it a little salt and cayenne, two ounces of butter broken into little pieces, and two heaped table- spoonfuls of fincly-grated bread-crumbs. Half a dozen finely-minced stewed mushrooms may be added or not. Fill the tomatoes with the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven, or fry them in oil until done enough. Before serving, brown them by holding a salamander or hot iron over them for a minute. Send brown gravy to table in the dish with them. Any good forcemeat that is liked may be used to stuff tomatoes. The remains of game or poultry minced finely, mixed with herbs and bread-crumbs, seasoned, and bound together with yolk of egg will answer excellently. Time to bake the tomatoes, ten to twelve minutes; to fry them, eight minutes. Probable cost, tomatoes, 2d. to 6d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tongue.—lIn choosing a tongue, take one which is plump and smooth-skinned, as that is « sign that it is young and tender; and also endeavour to ascertain how long if has been dried or pickled, so as to know whether or not it will require long soaking before being dressed. If very hard and dry, it will be necessary to soak it at least twelve hours in plenty of water; if fresh from the pickle, two or three hours’ soaking will be sufficient. Horse tongues are frequently sold as ox tongues to inexperienced purchasers.’ The former may be known by a spoon-like expansion at. the end. Tongue and Chicken with Cauli- flowers (see Chicken and Tongue). Tongue, .Baked.—Take a tongue fresh from the pickle, wash and soak it, and put it in a dish just large enough for it. Put little pieces of butter here and there upon it, cover with a common crust of flour and water, and bake in a moderate oven until it is quite tender. Remove the furred coating or skin, and fasten the tongue down to a piece of board by stick. ing one or two strong skewers through the root and one through the tip so as to hold the tongue in an erect and elegant form until it is quite cold. If to be eaten cold, glaze it, trim the root, put a paper frilling round it to hide its unsightliness, and serve garnished with pars- ley. If to be eaten hot, serve the tongue on a hot dish with brussels sprouts, cauliflower, or other vegetables roundit. Time to bake, three or four hours, according to size. Probable cost, 48. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for a luncheon, supper, or breakfast dish. Tongue, Beef.—If dried, a salted tongue must be soaked for some hours before it is dressed. It must then be put into cold water and gently brought to the boiling point; then, after the surface of the water has been cleared from scum, the saucepan must be removed from the fire only so far as to reduce the boiling to a gentle simmering. If dried, a tongue will require quite four hours’ boiling ; if simply salted, only three hours. Whilst hot, the outer skin of the tongue must be peeled off, and it may be sent to table either glazed or plain. The usual accompaniment to boiled tongue is boiled turnips. Tongue, Beef, with Sauce Hachée. —Take a fresh tongue; let it disgorge, blanch tt to remove any tripey taste it may retain ; then stew it.in a good braize. When done enough, flay it, cut it in two, spread it open, and cover it over thickly with sauce hachée. Tongue, Boiled.—I£ the tongue is dried, soak it for twelve hours; if taken fresh from the pickle, an hour or two will be sufficient. Put the tongue into cold water, and let it come slowly to the boil. Remove the scum care- fully, and simmer the tongue gently until done enough. Its flavour will be improved if two or three large carrots and a large bunch of savoury herbs be added to the liquor after the scum is removed. When the tongue is quite tender, so that it can be easily probed with a small skewer, and so that the skin can be easily peeled off, take it up, remove the skin, and if it is to be eaten cold pass a large carving fork through the root end, and by means of this fasten it on a board. Pass another and smaller fork through the tip, and draw the tongue straight before fixing it in the board. Let it remain untouched until quite cold, trim neatly, glaze it, and then wrap a nicely-cut frill of tissue paper round the root, which is a little TON ( 985 ) TON unsightly. Garnish the dish with parsley. Ifthe tongue is to be eaten hot, take off the skin, wrap it in a sheet of oiled paper, and -put in a little poiling liquor for a quarter of an hour before dishing it, to make it quite hot. Garnish the dish with brussels sprouts, cauliflowers, dressed spinach, or any other vegetables, and send tomato or piquant sauce to table with it. Time : a large smoked tongue, four hours and a half; a small smoked tongue, two and a half to three hours; a large unsmoked tongue,. three hours and a half; a small one, two to two hours and a half. Probable cost, 4s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for a breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish. Tongue, Carving of.—Begin to take slices, not too thin, from the middle of the tongue, and afterwards cut slices from each side, being careful not to cut quite through the tongue. The extreme tip is usually left and used for grating. A little of the fat should be put upon each plate. When the tongue is rolled, it should be cut in yery thin slices horizontally. Tongue, Dresden (A German recipe).— Procure a fresh bullock’s tongue, wash well, and wipe it quite dry. Put a large piece of butter into a stewpan, which must be deep enough to close well. Dredge in some flour; place the tongue in the stewpan ; let it brown nicely on one side, then turn it. When nicely browned all over, season it well; add a pint and a half of water. Cover close, and let it simmer—not boil—three hours and a half. Add more water if the gravy wastes much. There must be enough left to serve with the tongue, which is eaten hot with potatoes, but it is equally good cold. Garnish and serve with slices of lemon. Tongue, Fresh Ox.—Put the tongue on the fire in cold water, simmer slowly till tender, and then remove the skin. Melt two ounces of butter in a stewpan; dust in a table- spoonful of flour and as much grated bread as the butter will take up, and brown. Mince small a few rashers of bacon, do the same with - an onion, and add them io the sauce with the juice of a lemon and a slice of its peel. Thin the sauce with a little broth or water in which the tongue was boiled. Lay in the tongue, sprinkle with salt, cover, and let it simmer slowly for an hour. Tongue, Hungarian. — Put a fresh tongue on the fire with just cold water enough to cover it, and with it a carrot, an onion, a bay-leaf, a couple of slices of lemon, some black pepper, salt, and a little garlic. Let it simmer gently for about two hours till quite tender. Skin and trim it. Either serve it whole or cut in slices, and arranged in a ring with the following thick sauce in the centre: —Strain the liquor which the tongue was cooked in (this should be reduced in the simmering to a mere gravy); brown a large table-spoonful of flour in a-good-sized piece of butter; braize two or three cloves of garlic, and let them steam a little while in the browning; then add the strained gravy by degrees, stirring it quite smooth. Add a little lemon-juice or vinegar; and, whether it be served whole or sliced, the sauce must be dished with the tongue. If garlic is objected to, mako a thick sauce of grated horseradish, a carrot bruised fine, sorrel, capers, and a little wine. Garnish with lemon slices and parsley. Tongue, Miroton of, with Turnips. —Stew the tongue as in the recipe .Tongue, Beef, with Sauce Hachée; then let it cool, cut it into scallops, dish it miroton fashion, and place the dish covered at the mouth of the oven. A short time before sending it to table, glaze it with a light glaze, and pour into the centre some brown haricot sauce. Tongue, Pickled or Salted.—Tongues are generally bought ready pickled, but’ as some cooks like to prepare their own tongues, two or three methods are here given. Of these the simplest is the following :—Trim the root, and leave a little of the fat; place the tongue in a deep dish, cover with salt, and let it lie until the next day. Pour off the slime that will have come from it, and rub it well with a mixture made of half a pound of common salt, half a pound of moist sugar, and two ounces of saltpetre. Turn and rub it every day for a week, renew the pickle, and turn and rub it every day for another week, when it will be ready for use. Or, trim the root, put the tongue in a deep pan, cover with salt, and let it lie for twenty-four hours. Drain off the slime, and rub it with a mixture made as follows :—Take three pounds of common salt, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, three ounces of saltpetre, with a quarter of an ounce each of cloves, mace, and pepper, two table-spooh- fuls of mixed herbs finely chopped—thyme, marjoram, bay-leaves, winter savory, and basil. Pound these ingredients in a mortar, and mix them thoroughly. Rub this mixture into the tongue, and turn and rub it every day for twelve days or a fortnight, when it will be ready for use. Or let the tongue lie in salt for twenty-four hours as above. Rub into it a mixture made with half a pound of common salt, half an ounce of bay-salt, half an ounce of saltpetre, and a quarter of a pound of moist sugar. Turn and rub it every day for three weeks for a small tongue, four weeks for a large one. Or make a pickle by boiling a pound of salt, a pound of moist sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, and three ounces of sal prunella in a gallon of water for twenty minutes. Let the brine get cold, then put the tongue into it, and let it lie for a fortnight, and lay a small board on the top to keep the meat under the liquor. This pickle may be used several times if it is boiled occasionally. Tongues are always best when used straight out of the pickle. When this is not convenient, however, they should be taken out, rubbed dry, hung up to keep, and smoked, if liked. Tongue, Potted.—Take the remains of a cold boiled tongue. Remove all the hard parts, cut the meat into small pieces, and after- wards pound it to a smooth paste; season with cayenne, and beat with it one-fourth, of its weight in clarified butter. Press it into TON small jars, cover it about a quarter of an. inch deep with clarified butter, melted dripping, or melted suet, and let it stand three or .four hours before it is used. . A smaller proportion of butter will be required if a little of the fat of the tongue is-used instead of lean only, but the butter must not be entirely dispensed with. Some cooks season the meat by degrees with a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a salt-spoonful of ‘white ‘pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and as auch grated nutmeg as will cover a: three- penny piece to each pound of tongue. Potted tongue is excellent when pounded with its weight in well-dressed cold chicken, cold veal, or cold partridge. Time—the tongue to be pounded till reduced to a’ perfectly smooth paste. | . Tongue, Roasted. — Parboil a tongue that has been salted about ten days; roast, baste with red wine, and frost it at last with butter. Serve with a rich gravy and ‘sweet sauce. : Tongue, Rolled.—Take a large ox- tongue. Ifdry, soak it in plenty of cold water before dressing it; if fresh from the pickle, soak it for two or three hours only. Put it into.a.large stewpan with plenty of cold water and a bunch of savoury herbs; bring it slowly to the boil, remove the scum as it rises, and simmer gently until tender. Take off the skin—which will come off easily if the tongue is sufficiently dressed—trim the roots, remove the bones, and press the tongue, fat inwards, into a round tin just large enough to hold it, Puta dish with a weight upon it, and let it remain until cold. urn it out, glaze it, or tie a napkin neatly round it, and garnish with tufts of parsley. Time, a large smoked tongue, four hours and a half; a small,.smoked tongue, hree hours; a large unsmoked tongue, three hours and a half; a small one, two hours to two hours and a half. Probable cost, 48. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for a breakfast, supper, or lun- cheon dish.. : Tongue Soup.—Take the liquor in which a tongue has been boiled. Strain and skim it, and put it into astewpan with the trimmings of the tongue, and any bones or trimmings of fowl or veal that may be at hand, or, failing these, two pennyworth of fresh bones. Bring it to the boil, and skim carefully, then let: it simmer gently for three or four hours. At the end of that time put with it a large carrot, a turnip, an onion, five or six outer sticks of celery, and a large'pinch of cayenne, and Ict it simmer an hour longer. Strain it, and let it get: cool, so that the fat may be entirely removed. Put it again upon the fire, and when it boils throw into it a large carrot and a large turnip, cut into dice, and two table-spoonfuls of the thin end of: a dried tongue finely grated. Serve with toasted sippets. Time, three or four hours to boil the liquor with the bones. Probable cost, 2d. per quart, exclusive of the tongue. Sufficient, a quart for four people. Tongue, Sour (A German recipe).—Take a fresh tongue, and steep it for from two to four days in a pickle composed of a wine-glass- ful of vinegar, two or three slices of lemon, and ( 986 ) TON either an: onion, shallot, or garlic sliced, six cloves, two baysle.ves, and a tea-spoonful or black pepper. ., When about to dress it, wipe the tongue dry.., Melt.a piece of. butter the size of an egg in a,,stewpan, sprinkle in a good handful of bread-crumbs, and dredge in flour to brown, Mince.a couple of rashers of bacon, and add them. Strain in. the pickle, Add enough. water or broth to thin the sauce moderately.. Lay in the tongue, and simmer it till quite tender, Should the sauce not be piquant enough, add vinegar or lemon-juice, a glassful of claret, and a little cayenne.. When the tongue is peeled, pour over it a little of the sauce, and serve the rest in a tureen. | Tongue, Stewed.— Wash, a tongue, and trim away the coarser parts of the root. Rub it well with common salt and a small quantity of saltpetre, let it lie for a week, and turn and rub it every day. Boil in the usual way until it is tender. Pull off the skin, and put the tongue again into the stewpan with part of the strained liquor in which it was boiled, a pint’ of strong stock,’a bunch of sweet herbs, two bay- leaves, and five or six outer sticks of celery. Let it simmer gently for an hour. Lift’ out’ the herbs and the celery, and season the gravy with a salt-spoonful of white -pepper, a little salt if necessary, two pounded cloves, a table- spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a table-spoonful of lemon or -walnut pickle, and a glassful of white wine, and thicken with flour and butter. Serve the tongue on a hot dish. Pour. the sauce over it, and send stewed mushrooms to table with it.. If any gravy is left, it may be used advantageously for stews. Time, one hour to stew the tongue eftcr it is peeled. Probable cost, tongue, 4s. 6d. to 6s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tongue, Stewed (another way).—Sim- mer the tongue for two hours in just enough water to cover it; peel it, and return it to the water, adding some pepper, mace, and cloves tied up in a piece of muslin. Cut some turnips and.capers very small, slice some carrots, and add these also to the liquor with half a pint of beef gravy, a wine-glassful of white wine, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Stew all together very gently for an hour and a half longer; take out the spice and sweet herbs, and thicken the eae with flour worked into a. small piece of utter. Tongue, To Serve a Cut.—A pretty dish may be made from a tongue which has been cut into and partially used. Cut’ the tongue into thin round slices, and arrange them in a circle round a dish, each piece overla ping the next. Garnish the sides with a border of chopped parsley. If liked, the slices may be lightly glazed. Some cooks warm the slices in a little nicely-flavoured brown sauce, and serve them hot with the sauce poured over them. Tongue with Aspic Jelly.—Boil a tongue in ‘the usual way, and either roll it, or fix it ona board till quite cold! Take a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled, perfectly free from fat and sediment, and put it into o stewpan with a small sprig of thyme, three TON ( 987 ) TRA shallots, a bay-leaf, a small piece of mace, three cloves, and two ounces of gelatine. Stir it until the latter is dissolved, then lift it.to the side:of the fire, and let it-cool.. Whisk the whites of. two eggs with a cupful of cold water and. a tea-spoontul of tarragon vinegar. Stir this into-the liquor, and when it is very, hot leave it‘to boil, and let it boil gently for a quarter of an hour without being touched. Lift it from the fire, and let it stand to settle for for ten ‘niinutes longer, then strain it through a jelly-bag till clear. Glaze the tongue, put it on its dish, and ornament with the jelly cut into cubes. Time to make the aspic, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, aspio, 1s. 6d. Sufficient for one tongue. - ae Tongues, Glazed.—The appearance of cold boiled tongue is very greatly improved by glazing. Glaze may either be made at home (see Glaze) which is rather a difficult operation, as it may be so easily burnt—or it may be bought in skins., In either case, take a small portion and -put it into a jelly-pot, set this in a pan with a small quantity-of boiling water, and keep the water boiling until the glaze is dissolved. Brush the tongue all over with the glaze, or, rather, lay the glaze lightly and equally on the tongue with a brush, and when one coat is dry, put on a second, and a third if necessary; but, generally speaking, two coats will be found sufficient. ‘Longues, Pickle for (see Pickle for Beef, Pork, and: Tongues). . 5 ‘Pongues, Pickle for See Pickle for Tongues. Tongues, Roots of.—As the roots, of a tongue generally have an unsightly appearance, they may be trimmed off, and either potted according to the directions given above, or made into pea soup as follows :—Put the trim- mings of the tongue into a stewpan with some roast beef bones or fresh bones, a quart of split peas (which have been soaked for six or eight hours in cold water), and three quarts of the liquor in which meat ‘has been boiled. Failing this, use cold water. Add two or three onions, a sprig of thyme or marjoram, a-bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, and five or six outer sticks of celery. . Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, and afterwards simmer gently until the peas are tender, stirring frequently to keep them from sticking tothe bottom. Press the whole through a sieve, working it with the back of a wooden. spoon, put it back into the pan, and let it boil again for about.a quarter of an hour; add salt and pepper, and. it will be ready for serving. Care must be taken that the peas are not put into salted liquor, or they will-not easily be- come tender. Time to simmer the peas and (another way).— the meat, about three hours, according to the |: quality of the peas. Probable cost, exclusive of the roots, 3d. a quart. Sufficient for eight, or ten persons. Tongues, Sheep’s.—Wash. half.a dozen sheep’s fongues, put them into a saucepan with' as much boiling stock as will-cover them, and let them simmer gently until tender. Take off the skin, and trim the tongues in halves. Dish them in a circle, the roots in the centre, and pour into the centre mashed turnips, green peas, or a little onion sauce... Time to. simmer, one hour or more. Probable cost, about 4d. each. Suflicient for five or six persons. Tongues, Sheep’s, Salted.— Wash half a dozen shéep’s téngues, and rub into each one a tea-spoonful of moist sugar, a table-spoonful of salt, and a few drops of strong vinegar or lemon-juice.’ Let them lie for five days. * Put them into a saucepan with as much boiling water as will cover them. Let them boil, then draw the saucepan to the side-of the fire, and simmer them gently until tender. Take off the skin, trim the root neatly, and split-the tongues in halves. Arrange them in a circle round a dish, and garnish with parsley. Time to sim- mer, about an hour. - Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for a, breakfast or supper dish, Tottenham Muffins.—Beat three eggs till they are lightly frothed, and stir them into a quart of flour properly’ salted. Add as much lukewarm milk as will make a thick batter, and stir in a table-spoonful of clarified, butter and a quarter of a pint of good ‘fresh yeast. Cover the bowl containing the dough, and let it re- main in awarm place till it is lightly risen. Take it out by ‘spoonfuls, and drop it on a floured board. Let these remain for a quarter of an hour, then put them into muffin hoops and bake them. "When one’ side is slightly brown turn them upon the other. Time to | rise, about an hour. Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient, one or two for each person. Toulouse Ragofit (for garnishing large or small dishes).—Cook separately equal quan- tities of the following ingredients, as many as may be required for the dish it is intended to garnish :—Button' mushrooms, cockscombs, sliced truffles, quenelles, and scallops of sweet- bread.’ Pour over these as much nicely-flavoured white sauce a8 will cover them, and when they are quite hot the garnish will be ready for use. Time to simmer the whole together, three minutes. — s ; -Town Pudding.—Shred six ounces of suet very finely, and free it:from skin. Mix with ita, small pinch of salt, six ounces of moist sugar, half a pound of chopped apples (weighed after being, pared and cored), half a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and half a tea- spoonful of finely-cut,lemon-rind. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and press them very tightly into a buttered basin which they will quite fill. Tie a fidured cloth over the pud- ding, and boil it four hours. It will not l Turn it out carefully, require any moisture. ai send sweet sauce or wine sauce to table with it. Timé to boil, four hours. Probable . cost, 9d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Transparent Dessert Cakes.—Take a large cake (almost any kind will do), cut it into slices about the third of an inch thick, and stamp these into any fancy shapes, such as diamonds, squares, ‘hearts, , stars, rounds, &c. Spread a little good jam over them, having ‘previously hollowed the surface a little to keep ‘the jam from running over the sides. ‘half a pound of refined: loaf sugar with half a Boil pint of water to the second degree. When this TRA point is reached, take it from the fire and set the bottom of the saucepan in a basin of cold water: as soon as the sugar begins to thicken beat it from the middle against the side of the pan for a minute or two, and add very gradually half a quarter of a pint of maraschino or curacoa and two or three spoonfuls of clear syrup. Spread a little of this preparation over the jam upon the cakes, and as each cake is masked lay it on a drainer in a dish, and when this is full place it in an open screen for a few minutes to dry. In order to ascertain when the sugar has reached the second degree, skim it carefully, dip a perforated spoon into it, and blow the sugar off into the pan. When it has boiled long enough, large bubbles will form on the holes of the skimmer. Transparent Paste for’ Tarts, &c. (see Paste, Transparent). Transparent Pie Crust.—Take three quarters of a pound of sweet fresh butter, break it into little pieces, and put it into a jar until it is quite melted without being oiled. Let it cool, and mix with it a well-beaten fresh egg and one pound of dried and sifted flour. Roll the paste very thin, line the tartlet tins as quickly as possible, and bake the tarts in a well-heated oven. Just before putting them in brush them over with cold water, and sift a little powdered sugar over them. Time to bake, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 10d. for this quantity. Sufficient for two dishes of tarts. Transparent Pudding.—Whisk eight eggs thoroughly. Put them into a saucepan with half a pound of powdered sugar, half a pound of fresh butter, and any flavouring that may be preferred, either grated lemon-rind, grated nutmeg, or almond flavouring. If fresh Jemon-rind is used, a little lemon-juice may be added as well. Stir the mixture over the fire until it thickens, then pour it out to cool. Line the edges of a buttered baking-dish with good pastry, pour in the mixture, and bake the pudding in a moderate oven. It may be served either cold or hot. A little powdered sugar should be sifted over the pudding before sending it to table. Time to bake, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Treacle Beer.—Boil three-quarters of a pound of hops in eighteen gallons of water. Add seven pounds of good treacle, and stir the liquid until the treacle is dissolved. Strain the beer, and when it is cool ferment with half a pound of yeast. In winter time it will be found - improvement to boil a little cayenne with the Ops. Troacle-Beer (another way).—One gallon of boiling water to two pounds of treacle, with half a pint of yeast: put these into a cask, and cover the whole close over: in three days it will be ready for use. If the beer is intended for keeping, put in a small quantity of malt and hops, and when it has done working stop it up. Treacle Cheesecakes.—Line a buttered plate or large-tartlet-tin with good short crust, (988 ) TRE and then fill it with a mixture prepared as follows: Stir a table-spoonful of flour into four table-spoonfuls of good treacle, and when the preparation is quite smooth add as much pow- dered ginger as will lie on a fourpenny-piece. Ornament the cheesecakes by laying twists of pastry across the top, and bake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Treacle Parkin.—Put four ounces of butter with three-quarters of a pound of best treacle into a jar, and place this near the fire until the butter is dissolved, then stir in four ounces of moist sugar. Mix » pound of oat- meal with half a pound of flour, three-quarters of an ounce of powdered ginger, and a quarter of an ounce of caraway-seeds. Stir the treacle, &c., into the oatmeal, and make the mixture into a firm paste with a little flour. Roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and bake in buttered tartlet-tins in a moderate oven. , If liked, the caraway-seeds may be omitted, and a little sliced candied-peel added when the parkin is rolled on the table.’ Keep the parkin in tins carefully excluded from the air. Or rub one pound of butter into four pounds of oatmeal, add half a pound of sugar, two ounces of ground ginger, and as much warm treacle as will make a tolerably stiff batter. A cupful of milk may be added if liked. Put the batter into buttered baking-tins, or small tartlet-tins, and bake in a moderate oven. In order to ascertain when it is done enough, put a skewer into the centre, and if this comes out dry and clean the parkin is ready. A little sliced, candied-peel or a few caraway-seeds may be added if approved. Time to bake, according to size: the parkin should be done rather slowly, or the outside will be burnt before the inner part is done enough. Treacle Posset.—Boil half a pint of new milk, and as it is rising in the pan stir into it two table-spoonfuls of treacle. Boil until the curd separates, then drain it off and boil the posset again. Treacle posset should be taken the last thing before going to bed. It is an excellent thing for promoting perspiration. Time, a few minutes. Probable cost, 2d. Suf-. ficient for one person. Treacle Pudding.—Make some good crust with suet or dripping, and roll it out to’ the thickness of a third of an inch. Buttera pudding-basin, and line it with the pastry. Put a layer of pastry at the bottom, then a layer of treacle, and repeat until the basin is full. Put a cover on the top, moisten the edges, and pinch them closely together. Wring a pudding-cloth out of boiling water, flour it well, and tie it securely over the basin. Plunge the pudding into as much boiling water as will cover it, and boil quickly and without’ ceasing until it is done enough. Turn it out on a hot dish, and serve very hot. If liked, a little lemon-juice, grated lemon-peel, and fine bread-crumbs may be sprinkled over each layer of treacle. Time to boil, three hours for 2 moderate-sized pudding. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 1s. . TRE ( 989 ) TRI Treacle Pudding (another way).—Make some good firm suet pastry, roll it out to the third of an inch in thickness, and longer. than it is broad. Spread treacle all over it within half an inch of the edge. Wet the edges, roll up the pudding into the form of a bolster, and fasten the ends securely. Wring a pudding- cloth out of boiling water, flour it well, fold it round the pudding, and tie the ends firmly. Plunge the: pudding into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. If liked, a table-spoonful of flour and a quarter of a tea-spoontul of ground ginger may be mixed with every four table-spoonfuls of treacle, or a little grated lemon-rind, the juice of a lemon, and a few bread-crumbs may be sprinkled over the treacle. When the pudding is done enough, let it cool a minute or two, turn it out carefully, serve on a hot dish, and send melted butter to table with it. Time to boil, one hour and a half, or more, according to the size. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Treacle Toffee.—Rub the saucepan with butter, and pour in as much treacle as may be wanted. Let it boil gently until a small por- tion will break between the teeth after being thrown into cold water. When the toffee has reached this point it should be taken at once off the fire, or it will very quickly acquire a burnt taste. Pour it upon a buttered dish, and when it is cool roll it into sticks, and fold it in clean white paper. The toffee may, if liked, be fla- voured with essence of’ peppermint, or almond, or lemon flavouring, and it is said that a little cayenne pepper thrown into treacle toffee is an excellent cure for a cough. Trifle.—This is a compound of syllabub and sweetmeats. Line the bottom of a glass trifle- dish with sponge biscuits stuck with blanched almonds; moisten them with sweet wine, or with sherry and sugar. Over these lay a dozen ratafia cakes dipped in noyeau. Intersperse with these some thin slices of citron and orange- peel, and distribute over these pieces of apricot and raspberry jam with currant jelly. Pour over these a few spoonfuls of the liquor of the syllabub. The next layer should consist of tartlet cream of about the thickness of an inch, over which grate some nutmeg, and strew a little powdered cinnamon, together with a small quantity of lemon-peel, and some powdered loaf-sugar. Lastly, take the whipped froth from the sieve, and put it on the top as abundantly as the dish will contain. To give it a pleasing appearance, strew variour coloured comfits over the froth. The tartlet cream to form one of the layers may be made as follows: —Mix together half a pint of cream and the same quantity of milk; put into it a piece of fresh lemon or Seville orange-peel, and a little cinnamon, and sweeten with loaf sugar... Let these ingredients boil about ten minutes. Have ready prepared in another pan the yolks of six eggs well-beaten up with a heaped tea-spoon- ful of fine flour; to these gradually strain the boiled ingredients, and then whisk them well together over a gentle fire, so that they may acquire the proper consistence without curdling. If you are deficient of cream, milk only may be employed, but in that case a little more flour will be required. Trifle (another way).—The whipped cream which is laid over the top of a trifle should be made the day before it is wanted, as then it will be much firmer. Rub the rind of a large fresh lemon with two or three lumps of sugar till all the yellow part is taken off, then add a little more sugar to make up the quantity to three ounces, and crush it to powder. Warm a pint of cream, and stir the sugar in this till it is dis- solved. Adda glassful of sherry, a tea-spoonful of the juice of the lemon, a table-spoonful of brandy, and the whites of two eggs, which have been whisked separately to a firm froth. Mill or whip the mixture in a cool place, and as the froth rises take it off, and place it on an inverted sieve to drain. Continue whisking until the whole of the cream is frothed, and set the sieve in a cool place, or upon ice, with a dish under it. The next day put four sponge biscuits, a quarter of a pound of macaroons, and a quarter of a pound of ratafias at the bottom of a trifle-dish, and pour over them a large wines glassful of sherry, and another of brandy, or if preferred use two parts wine and one part spirit, and let the biscuits soak till they have absorbed all the liquor. Grate a little lemon- rind upon the cakes, and spread over them a layer of good jam, then cover them with a pint of nicely-flavoured rich cold custard. Pile the whipped cream lightly over the top as high as possible, and then garnish the dish with pink comfits, bright-coloured jelly, or flowers. Time, about one hour and a half to whip the cream. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and spirit, 4s. 6d., if the custard be made with milk. Suf- ficient for one trifle. Trifle (another way.)—Whip a pint of cream the day before it is wanted, according to the directions given in the last recipe; as the froth rises lay it on a reversed sieve to drain. Take two dozen finger biscuits; spread a little raspberry jam on the flat side of twelve of them, and press the other twelve upon it. Arrange these round a trifle-dish, put a quarter of a pound of macaroni, a quarter of a pound of ratafias, and four penny sponge cakes at the bottom of the dish; pour over them a glassful of sherry or madeira and a glassful of brandy, and let them soak till they have absorbed all the liquor. Pour a pint of rich cold custard over the soaked biscuits, and pile the whipped cream on the top. The custard may be made with a pint of milk, the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs, a heaped table-spoonful of powdered sugar,-a table-spoonful of brandy, and any flavouring that may be preferred. Time, twenty-four hours to drain the whipped cream; two hours to soak the biscuits; ten minutes to thicken the custard. Probable cost, exclusive of the wine and spirit, 4s. 10d. Sufficient for one centre dish. Trifle, An Elegant.—Makea whip theday before the trifle is wanted, as no whip is solid unless it has stood for some hours. It should be made with a quart of thick cream, nearly all of the rind of two lemons, a glassful of sherry, and three table-spoonfuls of sugar. Whisk the TRI ( 990 ) TRI mixture briskly, and as the froth forms lay it on an inverted sieve to drain. Puta quarter ofa pound of ratafias, a quarter of a pound of maca- yoni, and three or four sponge biscuits at the bottom of a trifle-dish, and pour over them a pint of nicely-flavoured liquid calf’s-foot jelly, and set this in a cool place to stiffen. Dis- solve a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a little water, and put with it a pint of thick cream, the grated rind of half a lemon, and a heaped table-spoonful of sugar. When this is cool, pour it over the jelly, and as it begins to set ornament with bright-coloured jam and macaroni soaked in wine. Pile the whipped cream high on the top, and the trifle will be ready for serving. Probable, cost, 7s., exclusive of the wine and brandy. Sufficient for one centre dish. Trifle, Apple.—Makeawhip the day before the trifle is wanted, as for other trifles, using a pint of cream, two ounces of sugar, a glassful of sherry, and. the white of an egg. Lay the froth on an inverted. sieve, and leave it in a cool place. Peel, core, and slice a dozen. fine apples, and put them into a saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of sugar:and two of water, and let them simmer gently until quite soft. Press them through.a sieve, and mix with the pulp the. grated rind .of half a lemon and a table- spoonful of brandy—but the brandy may be omitted. Make a thin custard with half a pint of cream,half a pint of milk, and a little sugar, and stir the mixture over the fire until it-begins to thicken, but do not let it. boil. Lay the pulped apples at the bottom of the trifle-dish ; when the custard is.cool pour it over them, pile the whipped cream high on the top, and the trifle will be ready for serving. It may be ornamented with, stripes of bright apple. jelly. When it is not convenient to make the whipped cream, an inexpensive and simple substitute may be’ made as follows:—Whisk the whites only of three eggs to a firm froth; sweeten and flavour them, drop them in large spoonfuls into boiling water for a quarter’ of a minute, and turn them lightly over in the water that they may be set all round. Let them drain two or three minutes, and pile them over the custard. The appearance of the dish may be varied by. slightly colouring half the whisked eggs with cochineal. Time, about’ half an’ hour to stew the apples. Probable cost,'3s. 6d., if cream be used. Sufficient for a small trifle-dish. ‘ Trifle, Gooseberry.—Wash -a pint of green gooseberries, and stew them gently with a little’ water until they break; press them through a sieve, throw away the skins, ‘and sweeten the pulp agreeably. “Make a thin custard, as recommended for apple trifle, and when it begins to thicken; pour it out and let it cool. Mix it with the fruit pulp, lay it on the trifle-dish, and pile whipped cream on the top, as for other trifles. Time, about half an hour to simmer the gooseberries. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., if made with cream. Sufficient for a trifle-dish. Trifle, Gooseberry (another way).— Prepare the gooseberry-pulp as in the last re- cipe. Cut four or five rather stale penny sponge cakes into slices, lay them in a deep glass dish, pour over them a wine-glassful of brandy and a wine-glassful of sherry, and let them soak till they have absorbed the liquor. Spread the gooseberry-pulp upon them, and cover the fruit with the following preparation:—Sweeten a pint of new milk, and flavour :with lemon- rind or any other agreeable flavouring. Mix two table-spoonfuls of Oswego very smoothly with a quarter of a pint of:cold milk; add three well-beaten eggs, and then mix all thoroughly. Make the flavoured milk hot without letting it boil, and stir itintothe rest. Turn the mixture into a saucepan, and: beat it over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken. Pour it out to cool, and stir frequently. Whencold, spread it over the fruit. This dish should be made two or three hours before it is wanted. Time,’ half an hour to boil the: gooseberries; about half an hour to make the Oswego. Probable cost, exclusive of t] :. brandy and wine, Is. 8d. Suf- ficient for five or six persons. Trifle, Ground Rice.—Sweeten a quart of milk, and flavour with lemon or any other suitable favouring. Put it into a saucepan, and ‘stir into it ‘five heaped table-spoonfuls of ground rice which has been mixed to a smooth paste with a little cold milk. Let the mixture boil gently for five. or six minutes, stirring all the time, and pour it into a basin until it is slightly cooled. Place a jelly-pot in the middle of a glass dish, pour. the ground rice round it, and let it get cold’ and stiff. Just before serving the rice, remove the jelly-pot, and in its place put half a pint of good cold custard. Stick blanched and sliced almonds all over the trifle, and garnish with bright fruit jelly. . If liked, the appearance of the dish may be varied by pouring the rice into a glass dish, and when it. is cold and. stiff cutting it out into the shape of a'star, a diamond, or any other. shape, then removing’the:spare:rice and filling the spaces it occupied :with «custard. Time,’ four..or five hours to stiffen.': Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for four or-five persons. Trifle, Lord Mayor’s (see Lord Mayor's Trifle). ‘Trifle, Swiss.—Take two ounces each of macaroons and ratafias; crumble them, put: them at the bottom. of a glass: dish, and then pour over them two- table-spoonfuls of brandy. Soak the thin rind of a fresh lemon and a quarter of an inch of stick cinnamon in a pint of cream until the flavour is drawn out. Lift:them out, sweeten the cream, and’ stir into it'a thin batter made of four. tea-spoonfuls of ground rice, or, if preferred, fine flour mixed smoothly with alittle cold milk. Stir this: mixture over a gentle fire until. it ‘boils, and. continue to simmer it, stirring unceasingly for four minutes. Pour it.out, let it get cold, then add gradually the strained juice of two fresh’ lemons. ‘Spread: the custard over the biscuits, and: stick blanched and sliced almonds over the surface. This trifle should be mado some hours before it is wanted. Time, -four minutes to stir the custard over the fire after it has boiled. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient for four or five persons. TRI ( 991 ) TRI Trifles, Savoury.—Any kind of: cold meat, game, fish, or shell-fish may be elegantly served as follows:—Mince tle meat, season it, and warm it-in a little sauce, as if it were to be used for vol-au-vents er patties. Make some paper cases by pressing a round of thick writing-paper into a circular wooden ‘box to take the shape. Lightly oil these cases inside and out, fill them with the ‘savoury mince, and put them into a brisk oven for a minute or two to make them hot. Sprinkle a few bread- crumbs over the top, and send the trifles to table neatly arranged on a napkin. They will make a pretty corner dish. Time to heat the minee in the cases, two or three minutes. . I Trinity College Pudding.—Mince four ounces of cold boiled tongue very finely, and mix with it eight ounces of finely-shred suet, eight ounces of grated bread-crumbs, « quarter of a pound of stoned raisins, a quarter of a pound of picked and dried currants, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, two ounces of shred candied peel, a small table-spoonful of flour, and a little salt and mixed; spice. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and make them into a paste by stirring in with them the well- beaten yolks of four eggs, the white of one, and a glassful of brandy. Turn the pudding into a buttered shape which it will quite fill, cover it with » cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and. boil quickly until done enough.’ Turn it out carefully before serving. Time to boil, about three hours. Probable cost, 1s. 10d., ex- clusive of the brandy. Sufficient for four or five persons. ‘Tripe.—tTripe is usually prepared for dress- ing before being offered for sale. It should be perfectly fresh, thoroughly cleansed, thick, fat, and as white as possible. .The honeycomb is generally preferred. If entirely undressed it requires to be most carefully cleaned and to be gently boiled for sixteen hours or more before it can be used. It may be cooked in various ways, the most usual of which is to boil it till tender and serve with onion sauce. Tripe (4 la Lyonnaise).—When there is any tripe remaining. from the previous day, it may be.sent to table: again prepared as follows:— Take a pound of cold boiled tripe, dry it well, and cut it in pieces an inch square. ‘Dissolve two ounces of butter in an omelet-pan, slice a large onion into this;and fry it over a.gentle fire until it is tender. Put the pieces of tripe withit, and also a table-spoontul of chopped parsley, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and a little pepper and salt. Heat all gently together for a minute, and serve immediately. Time,’ five or'six minutes to fry the tripe and onions. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. Tripe, Baked.—Take a pound of fresh dressed white tripe. Wash it in cold water, and cut into neat squares. Slice half a dozen onions, and fry them lightly in butter. Put them into an earthen baking-dish which has a closely-fitting lid, lay the tripe upon them, and | p sprinkle over it a large table-spoonful of flour and a little pepper and salt. Cover the whole with milk, put on the lid, and bake the tripe in a moderate oven. When done enough,: skim the fat from the top, and serve the tripe on a hot dish.. Some cooks substitute cider for the milk, and-also put a table-spoonful of Indian chutnee with the meat before baking it. Time to bake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for two or three persons. Tripe, Beef (see Beef Tripe). Tripe, Boiled.—Take two pounds of per- fectly clean dressed tripe. If there be time, soak it in milk for some hours before boiling, and if it should happen that the milk turns sour, the ‘acidity which the tripe will thus acquire will improve it rather than otherwise. If the tripe cannot be soaked, wash it im cold water, then cut it into pieces about three inches long-and two broad. Put it into a saucepan, and ‘cover -with' equal parts of cold milk and water. Let it boil, then add eight moderate- sized white onions, a table-spoonful of salt, and half. a tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Cover the pan closely, and simmer ‘the tripe: gently until tender. Lift out the onions, mince them finely, and press them through a coarse sieve. Mix with them as: much melted butter made with milk instead of water as will make a thick sauce, and serve the tripe on a hot dish with the sauce poured over it, or, if preferred, the sauce may be served separately in a tureen. Some cooks flavour the sauce with mustard and a little vinegar. Time to boil, about two hours. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per lb. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tripe, Curried.—Mince finely three or four.large onions, put.them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, and.fry them until they are tender. Rub them through a.sieve, and mix smoothly: with the pulp a table-spoonful ef ground rice and a table-spoonful of curry paste. Add. gradually a pint of, stock, and. stir the. sauce over the fire until it boils. Take. two pounds of tripe already, boiled till tender; put it into the sauce with a little more stock, let it boil gently for an hour,.and remove the scum carefully as it. rises. Serve on a hot dish, and send-rice boiled.as for curry to table with it.. Time to simmer the tripe, one hour. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Tripe, Eggs 4 la.—Make « little roux with flour and butter; fry a few chopped onions cut square in the same stewpan before the roux is made brown. Moisten with some good boil- ing milk, with pepper and salt. Let the flour and onions be well done, and keep the sauce rather thick. Next have ten eggs, boiled hard, cut. them in quarters or in round slices, and put them into the sauce, Stir gently that the yolk may not separate from the white, and serve up. Tripe for Invalids.—Take half a pound of fresh-dressed tripe. Wash it, cut it into squares, and remove almost ail the fat. Cut up half a pound of lean beef in the same way, and ut both into a stewpan with half a pint of cold water, half a spoonful of mustard, a small lump of sugar, and a little salt. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully, then draw TRI (992 ) TRI the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer gently for three hours. Mix a tea- spoonful of corn-flour to a smooth paste with about a table-spoonful of cold water. Stir this into the sauce, and boil it gently for a few minutes. Put the meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve. Time to simmer the tripe, three hours. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for one person. Tripe, French way of Dressing.— Take one pound and a half of fresh white tripe. Cut it into convenient-sized pieces, put it into a stewpan with as much strong veal broth as will cover it, and let it simmer gently for four hours. Put two table-spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms into a stewpan with a table-spoon- ful of chopped parsley, one shallot finely minced, half a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Pour over these a quarter of a pint of good white sauce, and stir the mixture over a gentle fire until the vegetables are tender. Add as much veal broth as will make the sauce of the consistency of melted butter, and boil it gently until it is very smooth. Serve'the tripe in a deep dish with the’ sauce poured over it. Time to stew the tripe, four hours. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. ; Tripe, Fricasseed.—Take about two pounds of fresh tripe as sold by the vendors; cut it into pieces three inches long and two broad, wash it in cold water, and dry it in a cloth. Put it into a stewpan, cover with equal parts of milk and water, add two onions and a bunch of parsley, and simmer gently for an hour. Rub an ounce of butter smoothly with a little flour, moisten with a quarter of a pint of cream, and stir it into the sauce. Add the thin rind of half a lemon, a little pepper and salt, and the eighth part of a grated nutmeg; then simmer for another hour. Put the tripe into a hot dish, take the sauce from the fire, stir a lump of fresh butter into it until it is dissolved, and pour it over the tripe. In stewing the tripe be careful that it does not burn to the bottom of the pan. A dish of boiled rice is a suitable accompaniment to tripe pre- pared in this way. Time to stew, two hours. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. - Tripe, Fried.—The remains of cold boiled tripe are required for this dish. If fresh tripe is used, it should be first boiled till tender in water mixed with a fourth part of vinegar, and then allowed to cool. Make a little frying- batter as follows:—Mix three-quarters of a pound of flour with a tea-spoonful of salt, and beat it till smooth with two ounces of olive oil or oiled butter, a little more than half a pint of lukewarm water and three eggs. The water should be added gradually, and the batter should be well beaten, and afterwards set aside for an hour or two before being used. Dry the tripe, and cut it into neat squares. Dip the pieces separately into the batter, and fry them in plenty of hot fat till they are lightly browned. The batter should be thick enough to coat the tripe. Serve the tripe on a hot dish, and sprinkle over it fried onions which have been sliced and divided into rings. Or serve it on a napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and send tomato or piquant sauce to table in a tureen, or a sauce prepared as follows:—Mince a dozen shallots finely, and put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a small walnut, the strained juice of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of scraped horseradish, a tea-spoonful of fresh mustard, and a little salt and cayenne. Stir these ingredients over a brisk fire for three or four minutes, then pour over them nearly half a pint of new milk, and boil the sauce for five minutes. Beat the yolk of a fresh egg for a minute or two, and mix with it two table- spoonfuls of thick cream. Lift the sauce from the fire for a minute, and stir in the mixture, then put it on the fire once more, and stir it again until it ison the point of boiling. Pour it into a tureen, and it will be ready for serving. Time, two hours to boil the tripe; fifteen to twenty minutes to fry it. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. Tripe (German mode of preparing).—Take a sufficient quantity of tripe, blanch and boil it till tender; then cut two or three onions small, and steam them till they are soft in a good piece of butter. Mix a thickening of milk and flour or milk and bread-crumbs to make a thick sauce. Add a sprig of marjoram, a little nutmeg, some white pepper, salt, and some chopped parsley. Stir the preparation till it boils thick and smooth. Cut the tripe into long narrow strips, and simmer it a short time in the sauce. : Tripe, Grilled.—Clean the tripe, simmer it very gently in nicely-flavoured stock, and boil with it an onion stuck with two cloves, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt.. When it is quite tender take it up, drain it, and cut it into pieces two inches square. Take equal quantities of minced parsley and chives, add a little pepper and salt, and make the mixture into a paste with a little oiled butter or dripping and lemon-juice. Dip the pieces of tripe into this batter, cover them with bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear fire. Send piquant sauce to table with them. Time to broil, till lightly browned. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient, one pound of tripe for two or three persons. ~ Tripe, Irish (sce Irish Tripe). Tripe, Normandy Way of Dressing. —Clean, scald, and scrape one pound and a half of tripe repeatedly, cut it into neat squares, and put it into a stewpan with a large carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, three ounces of bacon cut into dice, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and six or eight pepper- corns. Add one or two ounces of fat, and cover the whole with cider, white wine, or, failing these, cold spring water. Let the tripe simmer very gently till it is quite tender. Place it on a dish, and pour the strained sauce over it, Time, about two hours. Tripe Pie.—Tripe which is to be used for a pie should be stewed, and allowed to jelly in the liquor in which it was boiled. Line the inside of a pie-dish with good pastry. Puta slice of tender steak or a little undressed ham : TRI ( 993 ) TRO at the bottom of the dish, and place upon this the tripe with the jellied gravy adhering to it. Season with pepper and salt, place little pieces of butter here and there on the meat, and pour in two or three spoonfuls of good brown gravy. Cover the dish with a good crust, and bake the pie'in a well-heated oven. When the pastry is sufficiently cooked it is done enough. Time to bake, according to size. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. Tripe, Roasted.—Take about a pound and a half of tripe, wash, and boil it in milk and water for an hour. Cut it into two oblong pieces of equal size, spread on the fat side of one piece some good veal forcemeat, and lay upon it the other piece the fat side inwards. Roll and skewer the tripe securely, and tie it round with thin string. Fasten it on the spit, put it down before a clear fire, dredge with flour, and baste liberally. When done enough, serve on a hot dish, and garnish with sliced lemon. Send melted butter to table in a tureen. Time to roast, half an hour or more. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for three or four persons. Tripe Stewed in its own Jelly (Bir- mingham way).—Take some clean, fat, white tripe. Throw it into boiling water for ten minutes, drain and dry it, and cut it into pieces. Roll these up neatly, and tie them round with thin string. Put them into an earthen jar which has a closely-fitting lid, and put with them a knuckle of veal or a calf’s foot, and a little salt and pepper. Place the lid on the jar, and put it in a large pan of boiling water, keep it boiling, and add more water when required. When done enough, lift out the jar without dis- turbing the contents, and put it in a cool place. The tripe should remain in its own jelly until wanted, when it may be taken out and dressed in various ways. It will keep for three or four days. Time to stew, eight hours or more. Probable cost, tripe, 8d. per pound. Tripe Stewed with Bacon.— Take two pounds of fresh white tripe, half a pound of bacon, and a calf’s foot. Cut the tripe into pieces three inches square, and scald these in boiling water for five minutes. Bone the foot, scald it for ten minutes, and cut it into six or cight pieces. Divide the bacon also into pieces convenient for serving. Put the meat into a stewpan with a large bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, three large onions, two cloves, and a little pepper and salt, and pour in as much broth as will cover the whole. A glassful of brandy may be added or not. Cover the saucepan closely, let its contents boil, then draw it to the side, and let them simmer very gently until the meat is done enough. Take out the herbs, skim the sauce carefully, and serve the stewed meat in a tureen with the sauce poured over it. Send it to table as hot as possible. Time to stew, three hours, Probable cost, 3s. 6d., exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. Trotters, Sheep’s.—Take six or eight sheep’s feet. Remove the wool, and singe them, then throw them into fast-boiling water, let them boil quickly for five minutes, drain them, 63—n.E. and let them cool. Take the foot firmly in the left hand, give the bone a jerk with the right hand, and draw it out. Cut the hoof from the end of the foot, and put the feet into cold water. Let them boil, then simmer them as gently as possible until they are quite tender. Fill them with good veal forcemeat, and bind the feet with packthread to keep them in shape. Put them into a stewpan with as much of the liquor in which they were boiled as will cover them, an onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Boil them gently for half an hour, lift them out, and lay them on a dish. Strain the sauce, boil it down to glaze, and brush this over the feet. The trotters may be accompanied by tomato sauce, Robert sauce, or piquant sauce, and any. stewed vegetables, or they may be eaten cold with oil and vinegar. Time to boil the trotters, three or four hours. Sufficient, three or four for a small dish. Trotters, Sheep’s (another way).—See also Mutton ‘rotters. ( " Trotters, Sheep’s, Fried.—Stuff and stew the trotters as above. Make a frying- batter as follows :—Mix a pinch of salt with five ounces of flour, and mix smoothly with this a quarter of a pint of water. Beat the yolks of two eggs with two table-spoonfuls of olive oil or oiled butter, and add the mixture to the batter. Put it in a cool place for an hour or two, and a few minutes before it is wanted stir in the well-whisked whites of the eggs. Dip the trotters into the batter, and then fry in plenty of hot fat till they are lightly browned. Serve on a hot dish, and send tomato or Robert sauce to table with them. Time to fry, a few minutes. Sufficient, three or four for a small dish. Trotters, Sheep’s, Marinaded.—Bone and boil the trotters till tender, according to the directions already given, and press them between two dishes till cold. Cut them into neat slices, and lay them in a marinade made with two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, a table- spoonful of oil, and a little pepper and salt. Let them lie in this for an hour, place them on a sieve, and drain for twenty minutes. Dip the pieces separately in batter, and fry them as in the last recipe. Time to boil, three hours and a half; to fry, a few minutes. Trout.—There are two or three kinds of trout—common trout, sea trout, and white trout. The sea trout reaches a good size, but the white trout never does. River trout is » most de- licious fish, highly esteemed by epicures. It is seldom met with of a large size, and those are most delicate in flavour which weigh from three quarters of a pound to one pound. The female fish is considered better than the male. It may be known by its body being deeper and its head smaller than the other. Trout may be dressed in various ways, amongst which boiling is the last to be recommended, as it is then rather insipid in flavour. It is in season from May to September, and is in perfection in June. . Trout (4 la Genevese).—Take two moderate- sized trout, clean carefully, and wipe them dry. Dissolve a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a stewpan, and put with it a small TRO TRO ( 994 ) onion aia with a clove, a.small ‘bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme, a salt-spoonful.of salt, and half a. salt-spoonful of white-pepper. Mix thoroughly, and add half a pint of sherry . or, madeira. ‘Simmer the trout very gently till -the eyes start. Pour off the liquor, leaving only sufficient to keep the fish moist, thicken with flour and ‘butter, let it boil up, then serve . ‘the fish on a‘hot dish with part of :the sauce ‘poured over it and the rest in a tureen. If this -dish is considered too extravagant, the fish may be boiled in: stock flavoured with sherry, then thickened with flour and ‘butter, and flavoured - with the strained juice of a lemon, a tea-spoon- ful of anchovy essence, and a little-salt and | ‘cayenne. ‘Time, ten‘minutes or more, accord- ‘ing to size. ‘Probable ‘cost-very uncertain. Sufficient for two or three persons. Trout (a l’Aurore).—Take two moderate- sized trout, empty them, remove the gills and fins, scrape off the scales, then wash carefully, and wipe them dry. Put into the kettle as much water as will cover the fish, and with each quart put a table-spoonful of salt and a table-spoonful of vinegar. Put the trout into the water when it is boiling, and boil gently: when the eyes start they are done enough. Lift them out carefully, drain them, place them in ‘a hot dish, and cover en- tirely with a sauce: prepared as follows :— Beat the vyolks of ‘three eggs thoroughly, and mix-with them a quarter of a pint of white sauce, an ounce of. grated parmesan, a tea- spoonful of chilli vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken; it is then ready. Boil two eggs till hard, mince them finely, mix a table-spoonful of grated parmesan with them, and sprinkle the mixture over the fish. Put it in the oven for about a quarter of an hour till it is hot through, brown the surface with a salamander or red-hot shovel, then pour a little shrimp,-tomato, or lobster sauce round the fish, and serve it very hot. Time, trout weighing about a pound, ten or twelve minutes to boil, large trout, twenty minutes. Probable cost, un- certain. Sufficient for three or four persons. | Bake in a, quick Trout, Baked.—Clean and dry thefish, apd season them. inside and out witha little salt and cayenne and a pinch of pdwdered mace if liked. Pnt them in a bakingndigh, and lay little. pieces of butter here and here upon them. Baste occasionally with the liquor that collects in ‘the pan. ‘Baked trout may be served hot or cold. If served hot, the., fish gravy should be mixed with a little good melted butter, and sent to table in a tureen. When it is a convenience, several trout may be baked ‘together. They should be-put into the dish in ‘layers, and a little seasoning, chopped parsley, ‘and butter shouldbe placed between each layer. Time, according ‘to size. The trout are done enough when the flesh leaves the'bone easily. Trout, Baked (another way).— Wash, empty, and dry three or four small trout, split them open, and remove the bones. Lay three or four thin slices of fat bacon at the bottom of a baking-dish, lay the trout upon these, skin uppermost, and sprinkle a little pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and chopped parsley over them. oven, and serve very hot. Time to bake, half an hour. Sufficient for || three or four persons. Trout, Baked (M. Ude’s recipe) —Having emptied and scaled the trout, put a well-sea- soned stuffing inside, then turn it round with its tail fixed in its mouth. Put the fish in a small quantity of marinade, so that it may not burn in the oven. Baste frequently, and let it be made a fine colour. When it is done reduce the liquor in which the trout has been baked, put in a good lump of fresh butter kneaded with flour, with a little essence of anchovies, a few fine capers, salt, and pepper, if the sauce is not sufficiently seasoned ; but be careful when you use anchovies not to use too much salt. Then squeeze the juice of a lemon, drain the fish, send it up to table with the sauce under it, but without.covering the fish. Trout, Boiled.—Clean, empty, and dry the fish, and put them into fast-boiling water, to each quart of which a dessert-spoonful of salt and a dessert-spoonful of vinega¥ have been added. Remove the scum as it rises, and boil the fish until the eyes start. Drain it, and lift it out carefully not to break the skin, serve on a hot napkin or fish-paper, and garnish with parsley or lemon. Send melted butter, shrimp sauce, anchovy .sauce, or Dutch sauce to table in a tureen. The great angler, Isaak Walton, recommends that trout should be boiled in a mixture of beer, vinegar, and water, in which the rind of a lemon, and a little rosemary, thyme, winter savory, and horseradish had been boiled. Time, a ‘trout weighing one pound, from ten to twelve minutes’ boiling; two pounds, fifteen minutes; three pounds, twenty minutes. ~ Trout, Boiled Plain (M. Ude's recipe). —After having emptied, scaled, and washed the fish, have some boiling water ready, into which put the trout with a good handful of salt only, but no vinegar, as it spoils the colour of the fish. When it is done, drain it well, and serve it up on a clean cloth garnished with parsley. Send up lobster sauce separately ina TRO ( 995 ) TRO poat, or Dutch sauce. The length of time: it should boil‘is ‘left to:the judgment of the-cook 5 the size determines the time.| But keep in mind that when the fish. remains ‘long ‘in the water it loses its flavour and. quality ; ‘for this reason take care to boil it precisely:at the time it is wanted. Trout, Broiled.—Choose some moderate- sized trout; empty, wash, and dry them, then split the fish down the back, and, without injuring it, spread it open on a dish. Season with salt and cayenne, and a little lemon- juice,.and brush it well all over with oil or clarified butter. Broil it over a clear fire, tuming and basting it with butter every now and then. ‘Serve on .a hot dish, iand:.send parsley, mushroom, or piquant sauce to table inatureen. Some cooks split the trout open, rub them all over with salt, .let them lie two or three hours, then hang them up till wanted, or for eight or ten hours before boiling them. Time to broil, five minutes or more, according to size. ‘Trout, Choosing of.—The female fish is considered the best. It may be known by its head being smaller and its body deeper than that of the male. "When trout is fresh,, thé skin is most beautiful in appearance, silvery and golden tints intermingling, the eyes are bright, the gills red, and the body firm. The most delicate trout are those which weigh about 4 pound. The fish is in season from May to September. Trout, Collared. — Wash, empty, .and dry the trout. Cut off the heads, split them open, and take out the bones. Sprinkle a little pepper, salt, and powdered mace over the in- side, roll each fish separately, and: tie it round with a little cotton. Lay the fish side by side in a baking-dish, pour over them equal parts of beer and vinegar sufficient to cover them, and put two or three bay-leaves, and a dozen peppercorns or more into the liquor. Tie a sheet of buttered paper over the dish, and bake the trout in a moderate oven. When they are half done, turn them over that. they may be equally cooked all through, and baste them once or twice with the liquor. Time to bake, one hour. Trout, Filleted.—Clean and dry the trout, and raise the flesh from the bones by passing a sharp knife close to the spine. Divide the flesh into neat pieces convenient for serving, dip these into beaten egg, and after- wards roll them in bread~crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. - Drain on blotting-paper before the fire for five or six minutes, and then serve on a hot dish. Garnish the dish with shrimps, prawns, pars- ley, or lemon, and send shrimp sauce, anchovy sauce, tomato sauce, or tartar sauce to table in-a-tureen. Time to.fry, about eight or ten minutes. ; Trout, Fried.— Empty, clean, and dry the fish thoroughly, cut off-the fins and gills, butdeave the heads on. Rub them over with | flour, and fry them in plenty of hot fat. When they are brown on one side, turn them carefully ' upon the other. Lift them out,and drain them on blottingspaper before the fire,. Serve. on. hot napkin, ;garnish with parsley, and aad plain.melted ,butter.or any other suitable sauge to table with them. [f liked, the flour may be dusted,.off, and the trout may afterwards be dipped in, beaten egg, covered with bread- crumbs, and fried as before. This is a favourite way of. dressing trout. Time to fry, six to. ten minutes, according to size. Sufficient, ‘three or four trout for a dish, — | Trout im Jelly.—Wash the fish carefully, and form :them. into rings. with ‘their tails in their mouths. Boil water. with -a little vine- gar, salt,,a shallot, or: clove of garlic, and any approved, seasoning.’: Set it astde.to “cool, and when cold. Jay in, the fish, and: simmer for a few minutes after the water has just come to the boil. Lift the fish out carefully, drain them, and baste with clear fish jelly.’ When the fish basting has set lay on another, until the Bate are nicely coated. ;’ Arrange and garnish to ate. : . Trout, Pickled.—Take, the remains of cold boiled. or stewed trout: , Remove the skin and ‘bones, divide, the, flesh into, neat pieces, put, these,into. a, deep.dish, and, strain over them a ‘pickle;prepared, as follows :-——Mince three moderatexwsized, onions,:and, put them into a stawpian ‘with .a i piece of; butter ‘the size of an eggsran. chopped. turnip, a, bunchiof parsley, a sprig, of ‘thyme, .a- bay-leaf, .4,degsert-spoontul | Of, salt, and a tea-spoonful ,of., white, pepper. Stir these ingredients over a. gentle fire for five minutes; pour over them a. pint of vinegar ‘andia. pint of boiling water., Let. the liquor boil-for twenty. minutes, and, it will be ready for use. Trout-thus pickled will keep three or four days, and the same pickle may be used three or four times if it is freshly boiled when. required. Trout, Potted.—Take six or eight: mode- | rate-sized fresh fish; scrape them, empty them, | cut off the fins and heads, split them open, and removethe back-bone. Mix three tea-spoonfuls of salt with an equal quantity of white pepper and a tea-spoonful of. powdered mace, or half a grated nutmeg. Rub a portion of this seasoning into the insides of the fish, close them, and place them in layers head to tail in a deep baking-dish, put little pieces of butter between the layers and on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. As soon as they aro done enough, drain off the liquor in the pan, and lay the trout full-length in a potting-jar. When cold, cover them a quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter which is just begin- ning to stiffen, and set them in a cool place. till wanted. ‘Time to bake, about three-quarters of an hour. Trout, Potted (another way).—See Grilso or Trout, To, Pot. , - Trout, Potted (another way).—Take six or-eight fresh trout, cut off the heads, fins, and tails, empty them, split them open, and bonc them. Lay:them, backs uppermost, in a dish, and press them together. Tie ‘the following spices in muslin :-Half a tea-spoonful of: pep- percorns, a tea-spoonful of ginger, three-salt- spoonfuls of salt, two bay-leaves, two cloves, three‘allspice, anda pinch of cayenne. Lay thic TRO ( 996 ) TRO bag upon the fish, with half a pound or more of good butter broken into pieces. Cover the dish closely, and put it into a gentle oven. When the fish are done enough, lift out the bag: of seasoning, and set the trout in a cool airy place till wanted. Time to bake, an’ hour and a half. Trout, Salmon.—This, called also the sea trout, appears to form a connecting-link between the salmon and ‘the common trout. It, like the salmon, frequents both the sea and rivers, ascending the latter to spawn. It is for the most part found in the rivers of moun- tainous countries, and is common in Wales and the lake district of England. It seldom exceeds a foot in length, and is a very delicious fish. Trout, Sauces for.—Any of the follow- ing sauces may be served with boiled trout: —Plain melted butter, anchovy sauce, shrimp sauce, parsley sauce, Dutch sauce, ravigote sauce, or a sauce prepared thus:—Boil half a pint of melted butter with two table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Mix the yolk of an egg with another table-spoonful of cream, and stir the thickening into the sauce, first letting it cool for one minute; add the juice of a lemon'and a pinch of salt, and stir the sauce over the fire until it is on the point of boiling. Lift it off, and stir into it an ounce of fresh butter until it is dissolved. Serve the sauce in a tureen or poured over the fish. Or bone and skin an anchovy, and pound the flesh in a mortar with a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a table- ‘spoonful of chopped chives, or a minced shallot, ‘a table-spoonful of capers, a dessert-spoonful of flour, and-a piece of butter the size of an egg. ‘When the mixture is quite smooth, stir it into ‘a pint of the liquor in which the fish was boiled. Let it boil a minute or two, and send it to table in a tureen. Fried trout is very good served cold and accompanied by salad sauce. Trout, Souchet.—Clean and empty five or six small trout, and dry them well. Cut four parsley roots into strips an inch long and ‘very narrow, and boil these in a pint and a half of water, together with a tea-spoonful of salt anda tea-spoonful of finely-scraped horseradish. In five minutes throw in a handful of small sprigs of parsley. Let the water boil up again, put in the trout, draw the pan back imme- diately, and simmer the fish gently until done enough. Serve the fish in a deep dish with the water, parsley, &c., and send slices of thin brown bread and butter to table with it. Time to boil the fish, ten or twelve minutes. . Pro- bable cost, uncertain, trout being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for five or six persons. Trout, Stewed.—Take two moderate- sized trout, empty, wash, and dry them well: Put them in a stewpan, and pour over them as much stock as will barely cover them, and a glassful of port or claret, then add a small onion finely minced, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two cloves, a pinch of powdered mace, and a little pepper and salt. Let them simmer very gently until the fish are done enough. Lift them out carefully, and put them on a hot dish. Strain the gravy, thicken it with a tea-spoonful of brown thicken- ing or with a little flour and butter, stir it over the fire till it coats the spoon, pour it over the fish, and serve very hot. Time to stew the fish, half an hour to three-quarters, according to size. Sufficient for two persons. Trout, Stewed (another way).—Empty, clean, and dry one large, or two moderate-sized, trout, and partially fry it in hot butter till it is lightly browned. ' Pour over it as much good stock as will barely cover it, and add a bunch of parsley, a bay-leaf, a roll of thin lemon-rind, a . finely-minced shallot, and a little pepper and salt. Let it simmer very gently until done enough. Place it on a hot'dish, thicken the gravy with a tea-spoonful of brown thicken- ing, boil it till of the proper consistency, and strain it over the fish. A glassful of port or claret or a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice may be added or not. Time to simmer the fish, half an hour to three-quarters, according to size. Sufficient for two persons. Trout Stewed in . Wine.— Empty, clean, and dry two or three fresh trout; put them in a stewpan, pour over them equal parts of good gravy and’either claret, port, or madeira, and add a moderate-sized onion, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, six allspice, two cloves, and a little salt. Let them simmer gently until done enough. Take them up carefully, strain the gravy, thicken it with brown thickening, and flavour with a tea- spoonful of lemon-juice or chilli vinegar, a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, and a des- sert-spoonful of mushroom ketchup. Strain the sauce over the fish, and serve very hot. Time to simmer, half an hour to three-quarters, according to the thickness of the fish. Suf- ficient for a small dish. Trout, Wayside Inn,—Clean and empty the trout, dry them, and boil them until done enough. Lift them out carefully so as not to break them, put them upon a hot dish without a napkin, and cover them entirely with rich melted butter. Sprinkle a table-spoonful of chopped gherkins over the sauce, ahd garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon. Time to simmer the fish, ten to twenty minutes, according to size. Trout, with Genoese Sauce.—Empty, clean, and dry two moderate-sized fresh trout, and put them into a kettle of boiling water with a table-spoonful of salt and a table- spoonful of vinegar. Boil the fish gently until they are done enough, then lift them up carefully, and pour over them some sauce pre- pared as follows :—Thicken a pint of good stock with a dessert-spoonful of brown thickening, and boil it till it is smooth and coats the spoon. Put with it a glassful of claret or port, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, a table- spoonful of mushroom ketchup, ‘a dessert- spoonful of chopped parsley, the eighth of a nutmeg grated, a small lump of sugar, and pepper and salt if required. Stir the sauce over the fire for five or six minutes, take it off, and stir into it a piece of fresh butter the size of a walnut until it is dissolved. Pour the sauce over the trout, and serve immediately. TRU (997 ) TRU Time to boil, according tosize. The fish is done | enough when the eyes start. Sufficient for two | persons. Half this quantity of sauce may be made, but the proportion should be maintained. Tyuffle.—The truffle is a kind of mushroom without roots, which is found at a considerable depth underground, principally in oak forests. As there is no appearance on the surface to jndicate their presence underneath, pigs and dogs are employed to find them out, and when they begin to scratch the ground the men who are with them dig until they are found. There are three kinds—black, red, and white, and the difference arises from the different degrees of ripeness to which the truffle has attained. The black being the ripest are the best. ‘Truffles grow on the Con- tinent much more abundantly than they do in England. Périgord, in the South of France, is TRUFFLES, quite celebrated for them. They are seldom eaten alone, but are used for flavouring pies, ragoiits, and sauces, for stuffing poultry, and for garnishing dishes. When good they have an agreeable aroma, and are light and elastic. They are best when fresh, and lose much of their flavour when preserved. They are almost extravagantly esteemed by epicures, and are very expensive. ‘The passion for truffles is an acquired one; it requires an education to un- derstand them properly, but those who have acquired the taste regard the truffle as the best of edible substances. Yet irreverent novices make light of them, and compare them to turnips flavoured with tar, and young people seldom care for them. They are in season from October to January, though bottled truffles may be bought at the Italian warehouses at any time. Probable cost, fresh truffles, 6s. to 18s. per oo bottled truffles, 1s. 10d. for a small ottle. Truffle Purée.—Wash, brush, and peel half a pound of fresh truffles. Pound them with an ounce of butter and press them through |. a hair sieve, Put them into a stewpan with half a pint of good brown sauce, and let them ‘boil for ten minutes. Just before serving the purée, dissolve an ounce of glaze and an ounce of butter in the purée, and, if obtainable, add to it two table-spoonfuls of essence of truffles. Time to boil, ten minutes. Truffle Sauce.—Clean and peel four truffles, and cut them into squares of a quarter of an inch each way. Put them into a stewpan with half a'pint of good brown sauce, and stir over a gentle fire for ten minutes. Add a glassful of sherry, and, if liked, a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, and serve. Time, ten minutes to boil the sauce. Probable cost, fresh truffles, from 6s. to 18s. a pound; bottled truffles, 1s. 10d. for a small bottle. Sufficient for four or five persons. Truffle Sauce (another way).— Wash half a dozen truffles, and peel them, slice them, and lay them in a stewpan with one or two shallots or a little onion and parsley, a piece of butter, some salt, and a glassful of ‘wine. Let the truffles stew closely covered till reduced and soft, then add enough gravy and water or broth, some fiour thickening, and a little grated gin- ger. ‘ Boil the sauce again for ten minutes, and skim offithe fat. Truffle Sauce (another way).—Take half a pound of well-cleaned and peeled truffles. Put them into a stewpan with as much brown gravy as will cover them, and put with them a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, « shallot, and an ounce of butter. Let them simmer very gently until tender, and when they are half done put a glassful of sherry into the sauce. Take them out, drain them, and cut them into thin slices. Strain the gravy, thicken it with a little brown thickening, heat the slices in the sauce, and serve very hot. Time to boil the truffies, about one hour. Truffied Butter (see Butter, Truffled). Truffles (4 la Serviette).—Wash the truffles in several waters, brush them thoroughly to free them from earth and grit, and drain them. Line a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, put in the truffles, cover with rich veal gravy, and add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two bay-leaves, five or six cloves, a bunch of small onions, and three or four sticks of celery, with a glassful of wine or not. Simmer the truffles gently until done enough, and let them get cold in the liquor. When wanted for table heat them again, drain them well, and dish them in a folded napkin. Truffles 4 la Serviette are usually sent to table with a little cold butter on a separate dish, and without sauce. Time to simmer half to three-quarters of an hour. Truffles (a la Serviette—another way).— Wash the truffles in several waters, and brush them thoroughly. Wrap them separately in buttered paper, and bake them in a hot oven, or toast them before the fire in a Dutch oven, turning them frequently that they may be equally cooked. Remove the paper, wipe the truffles, and serve them on a neatly-folded white table-napkin. Time to bake, one hour, Truffles (a I'Italienne).— Cleanse well, dry, and pare ten truffles, and cut them into thin slices. Put them into a small frying-pan with an ounce of fresh butter, a minced shallot, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, and a little TRU ( 998 ) TRU pepper and salt. Stir over a gentle fire till they are done enough, which will be in about ten minutes, then pour off part of. the butter, and add an ounce of fresh butter, two table- spoonfuls of thick brown gravy, with a little cayenne, and the price of half a lemon. Stir the mixture over the fire until it ison the point of boiling, and serve very hot. Time, altogether, about twenty minutes. Truffles (.\T’Italienne—another way).— Cleanse thoroughly, dry, and pare eight truffles, cut them into thin ‘slicés, and put them into a baking-dish with a quarter of a pint of: Lucca oil, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, another of powdered mace, and a little pepper and salt. Let. them bake gently nearly an hour, squeeze the strained juice of half a lemon over them, and serve very: hot. If liked, a clove of garlic may be minced and put with them. Time to bake, one hour. Truffies aux Champagne. — On the subject of truffles prepared in this way, the late Alexandre Dumas’ “ Dictionnaire Gastrono- mique’’ waxes enthusiastic. ‘‘ What,” he says, “ean be more exhilarating, more divine, than truffles aux Champagne? Take a -pound’ of truffles, pour a bottle of Ai mousseux into a saucepan; throw in the truffles, together. with a little salt, and let them boil in the wine for half an hour; then serve them hot:on a snow- white napkin. Who could resist the power of this composition, which charms ‘the palate and tickles the fancy? How its-enchanting aroma caresses, flatters, and rejoices!” =. Truffles, Bottled.—Soak the. truffles for an hour or two in fresh water, wash them well in several waters, brush them until they are quite clean, and pare them. .Put them. into wide-mouthed and perfectly dry bottles, and put in.each bottle a sprig of thyme, a large pinch of salt, and, a..table-spoonful of cold water. Cork the bottles closely, and tie them down securely. Wrap a wisp of hay. round them to keep them from cracking, put them side by side in a large stewpan, and pour in. sufficient cold water to reach up to their, necks. Bring the liquor to the boil, then draw the saucepan to the side, and keep it simmering gently for half an hour. Let the bottles remain untouched till they are cold, wax. the, corks, and. store the truffles in a cool place. As English truffles are much cheaper: than French ones, it is good economy to bottle them when they are in season for future use. Care should be taken to smell them before bottling, and to reject any that are in the least musty. They are best in December and January. Time to boil the truffles, half an hour. Truffles, Buisson of.—Choose as many large round truffles as may be required, cleanse them thoroughly, stew them as for Truffles 4 la Serviette, and let them cool in the liquor. Take a stale quartern loaf, cut off the crust, and carve the crumb to an oval shape. Place this upon a white napkin on a dish, cover with parsley, and stick about a dozen of the trufiies all round it with silver skewers. Pile the rest on the top, and serve. ‘Time to stew the truffles, nearly: an hour. Truffles, Capen Roasted with. (see Capon roasted with Truffles). Truffles: for Garnish.--Trufles which are to be used for garnishing various dishes may either be cleaned, pared, and boiled whole, then left to cool in their liquor, or they may be cut up into slices before being boiled. It : should be remembered that the liquor in which | they are boiled will be excellent for sauce, and | that if well cleaned the parings may be stewed i to flavour sauces. Many cooks boil the truffles i whole, and afterwards cut them up into dif- | ferent shapes before using them for. garnishing. Time to boil moderate-sized truffles for garnish, about a quarter of an hour. ‘ _ Truffles for Garnish (another way).— See Garnish, Truffles for. Truffles, French.—In Piedmont, white truffies are met with. The best truffles of France come from Périgord and Upper Pro- vence. About the month of January they have their highest perfume. Those from Bugey have also a high flavour, but:cannot be preserved. Those of Burgundy and: Dauphiny are of in- ferior quality. They are hard and deficient in farinaceous matter. Truffles, Ortolans Stewed. with (sce Ortolans Stewed with Truffles). Truffles, Partridges Braised with (see Partridges Braised with Truftles). Truffles, Potted.—Wash, brush, peel, and slice six ounces of fresh truffles.’ Dissolve a pound of fresh butter; skim it carefully, pour it into a basin, and let it stand two or three minutes, then pour the pure oiled part away from the thick milky substance which will have settled at the bottom. Put the sliced truffles into a delicately-clean stewpan, and pour the butter gently over them. Let it, stand until it is set, then put the saucepan on a slow fire, and stew the truffles very gently soe they are tender. Lift them into dry presérving jars, cover them with the butter, and store them in a cool and perfectly dry place. They will keep for months, and will be a most acceptable addition to the breakfast or luncheon table. The butter which remains after the truffles are thoroughly covered, so as to exclude the air, may be potted separately, and may. be used for flavouring sauces and various delicate pre- parations. Time to stew the trufiles, twenty minutes, or more. Truffies, Preserved. — Keep them in well-corked 6 ttles in salad-oil. _ Truffles; Shoulder of Lamb wi Lamb, Shoulder of, with Truffles). MACE Ge Truffles Stewed in Champagne.— Take ten or twelve large truffles, te ont for a couple of hours, rinse them in several waters, and serub them thoroughly. Lay a thin slice of fat bacon at the bottom of a stewpan, put in the truffles, and add half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a little grated nutmeg, and, if liked, a carrot, a turnip, a bunch of green onions, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two or TRU (999 ) TUR three cloves, and'a blade of mace. Half cover the truffles with good veal stock, let them simmer half an hour, then add a bottle of dry champagne, and simmer for another half hour, ‘keeping them very closely covered. They may either: be drained, dried, and served cold in a silver dish, or on .a dish covered with a nap- kin, with the sauce served cold in a tureen, or they may be heated and served hot, with the: liquor, strained and ‘considerably reduced, poured over them. Time to stew the trufiles, one hour: Truffles, Stufing of, for Sucking Pig (see Pig, Sucking, Stuffing of Truffles for). Truffles, Timbale of.—Line a plain round mould with good puff paste. Take six or eight large fresh truffles; wash and brush them -thoroughly, and cut them into thin slices. Put them into a small frying-pan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, shake them over a brisk fire, and be careful not to break them. Drain them, and put them into the mould, place the cover on the top, make a hole in the centre for the steam to escape, and bake in a hot oven. When the pastry is done enough, make up the hole, and turn the timbale on a dish. Make an opening in the top, and pour in a small quantity of good gravy, then lay a slice of truffle in the opening, and serve. Time to fry the sliced truffle, five or six minutes. Truffles, To Prepare for Use,—Soak the truffles for one or two hours in cold water, or if necessary in lukewarm water, to loosen- the earth from them. Rinse them well several times, and brush them carefully, until they are delicately clean. Dry them in a soft cloth, and pare them very thinly. The parings of truffles should be used for flavouring purposes. Truffles, with Hggs.—Take a large truffle, clean and pare it, cut it into small pieces, and simmer it in a little butter over a gentle fire for five or six minutes. Drain it, and put it into a clean stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, half a dozen fresh eggs, two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir this mixture with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire until it begins to thicken, then draw it to the side, and beat it until the eggs set without being at all hard. Put the preparation on a hot dish, and garnish with sippets. Time, altogether, ten or fifteen minutes. Tschi, or Russian Soup.—Take a pound of nicely-flavoured sausage meat. Make it into small balls, and fry these until they are slightly browned all over. -Drain them from the fat, put them into a soup tureen, and pour over them three pints of. boiling soup prepared as follows :—Mince two large onions finely, and. mix them with a small cabbage finely ‘sliced. Put the whole into a stewpan with a piece of fresh butter the size of a large egg, and turn the vegetables about over a gentle fire until they are nicely browned. Sprinkle over them two ounces of flour, and moisten the whole with three pints of nicely-flavoured stock. Stir the soup over the fire until it boils, season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and let it batter. simmer gently for half an hour, skimming care- fully the whole of the time. Just before serving, put into it a table-spoonful of. finely-minced lean ham, a glassful of light. wine, and three or four tarragon-leaves. finely. shred, Serve very hot. Sufficient for five or six persons. Time, ae = hour to simmer the soup after it has. oiled, Tunbridge Cakes.—Rub two ounces of fresh butter into half a pound of dried and sifted flour. Add a pinch of salt, four ounces of powdered white sugar, two ounces of caraway- seeds, and'as much water as will be required to make a stiff paste. Roll this out very thin, stamp it into small rounds, prick the surface lightly with a fork, and bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. Time to bake, fifteen to thirty minutes, according to size. cost, 6d. for this quantity. : Tunbridge Puddings. — Boil a pint of new milk, and as it rises in the pan stir into it - gradually as much flour as. will make a thick. Beat it until quite smooth, pour it gut, and when cold add three well-beaten eggs, a. table-spoonful of sugar, and two or three drops: of almond ratafia or any other flavouring. Throw the batter in spoonfuls on a large floured. plate, dredge the surface well with flour, and drop the puddings into hot lard or clarified fat. Fry them till they are lightly and equally browned, and serve on a hot dish with white sugar sifted thickly over them. Time to fry, until brown. Probable cost, 9d. Sufficient for five or six persons. TUNNY FISH. Tunny.—Tunny is a kind of fish slightly. resembling the mackerel: it is caught in the Mediterranean, and sent to other parts preserved in oil. The flesh is delicate’ and highly esteémed, somewhat resembling veal. To serve. it, cut it in thin slices, and arrange these in rows overlapping each other. Put little heaps of chopped parsley and capers round the dish, pour a little fresh salad oil over the fish, and serve. ; Turbot.—The turbot is the most highly esteemed of all flat fish. Its flesh is white, Probable. 4 TUR rich, and gelatinous. It is an expensive fish, and sold by size instead of weight. It will keep for a day or even two if lightly salted. The thick part of the fins and the gelatinous skin are the parts of the fish most relished by epicures. The thick slices from the middle of the back are the best parts. In preparing a turbot for dressing great care is necessary. First empty the fish, and cleanse the inside. Rub a little salt over the outside, as this will help to remove the slime, then wash the’turbot in several waters. Dry it with a cloth, and rub it all over with a cut lemon to make it white. On no account cut off the fins. Make an incision down the thickest part of the middle of the back, that is the dark side of. the fish, in order to keep the skin on the white side from cracking. Any unsightly red spots on the under side may be removed by rubbing them with salt and lemon-juice. A turbot is usually served the white side uppermost. Some cooks have an idea that the best slices are to be found on the dark side, and therefore serve it back upwards. When this is done the fishis usually garnished. Turbot is at the best from April to: September. Moderate-sized fish are the best. Turbot (i la Bechamel). — This is a favourite method of dressing the remains of boiled turbot. Remove the fiesh from the bones while it is still warm if possible, divide it into convenient-sized pieces, and take away all the skin. Put a pint of milk or cream, or equal parts of either milk and white stock or milk and cream, into a stewpan with a strip of thin lemon-rind, a finely-minced shallot, six peppercorns, and half a tea-spoonful of salt. Let it boil for ten minutes, then strain and thicken it with a large table-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little cream or butter. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire for five minutes, put in the slices of fish, and when they are quite hot turn the whole preparation upon'a hot dish. A few oysters may be added to the sauce if liked, and if milk only is used, the sauce may be made richer by adding the yolks of two eggs mixed with a little cream. If this is done, care must be taken not to let the sauce boil after the eggs are added. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon and parsley, or with potato croquettes or toasted sippets. Time, three or four minutes to heat the fish in the sauce. Sufficient, a pound of cold turbot and the third of a pint of sauce for two persons. Turbot (4 la Créme).—Take the flesh from the remains of a boiled turbot, free it from bones and skin, and divide it into neat pieces, season with a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, re on it the grated juice of a lemon, and let it lie for an hour. Simmer half a pint of new milk with a strip of lemon-rind and a bay-leaf till it is pleasantly flavoured. Strain it over the fish, and let it heat gently. Beat the yolks of two eggs, and mix them smoothly with a table-spoonful of flour and half a pint of thick cream. Stir this carefully into the sauce, let it get quite hot, but on no account allow it to boil. Serve immediately. Time, a few minutes to heat thc fish in the sauce. Sufficient, a pound of fish for one or two persons. (1000 ) TUR Turbot (i la Créme Gratiné).—Make the fish hot in some good cream sauce, according to the last recipe. Arrange it neatly in a dish in layers, first a little fish, then a little sauce, and let sauce be the uppermost layer. Strew seasoned crumbs and grated parmesan lightly over the whole, pour over this two or three table-spoonfuls of very thick cream, and put the dish into the oven to get quite hot. Brown the surface with a salamander or red-hot fire shovel, and serve very hot. Time, altogether, half an hour or more. TURBOT, CARVING OF. Turbot ( la Créme d’Anchois).—Boil a moderate-sized turbot in the usual way, and place it carefully on a hot dish without a napkin. Flavour a pint of rich melted butter with one or two tea-spoonfuls of the essence of anchovies, and add the eighth of a pint of thick cream. Mix the sauce over the fire, and when it. is nearly boiling pour it over the fish. Sprinkle a table-spoonful of chopped capers or gherkins upon the surface, garnish the dish with a border of new potatoes, and serve very hot. Time, a few minutes to heat the sauce. Suf- ficient, this quantity of sauce for a moderate- sized fish. Turbot and Lobster Sauce.—Choose a very white and fine-skinned turbot three- quarters of an hour before dinner, or an hour if the turbot is very large, put it into boiling water and salt with lemon slices over it; start it very quick ; when it begins to boil, draw the pan on the side of the fire. If the turbot boils too fast, it will be woolly. When you have ascertained with your knife that it is quite done, serve with green parsley on the broken places, and put round the dish some horse- radish scraped fine; serve the lobster sauce separately in a boat. Make an aperture in the ee of the turbot, and it will be the sooner one. Turbot, Baked.—Empty, wash, and dry a moderate-sized turbot. Rub the inside of the dish in which it is to be baked with butter, and sprinkle upon it a little pepper and salt, grated nutmeg, and finely-chopped parsley. Place the turbot upon this, and sprinkle a little more seasoning on the upper part of the fish. Put two or three ounces of butter broken in little pieces here and there upon it, dredge it well with flour, and add two glassfuls of light wine, and, if it is at hand, one or two table-spoonfuls of. oyster-broth or mushroom-juice. Bake the TUR (1001 ) TUR fish in a moderate oven, and when it is done enough lift it carefully upon the dish on which it is to be served, keep it hot, and prepare the sauce as follows:—Pour the liquor from the baking-dish into a saucepan, thicken with a little flour and butter, stir over the fire for a minute or two, and then serve in a tureen. The sauce may be varied by the addition of a little essence of anchovy, nutmeg, cayenne, and lemon-juice; or a little white sauce may be added, or a dozen mushrooms, or a. dozen scalded and bearded oysters. Garnish the turbot with scraped horseradish and sliced lemon or fried bread or green parsley. Time to bake the turbot, twenty to thirty minutes, according to size. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient, a moderate-sized turbot for five or six persons. TURBOT KETTLE. Turbot, Boiled.—Empty the fish, wash it inside with scrupulous nicety, then remove the scales and gills, and trim the fins, but do not cut them off, as the gelatinous parts about them are esteemed a great delicacy. Rub a little salt all over the outside of the fish—this will make the slime come off more easily, and do away with the necessity for soaking the fish. ‘Wash it until it is as clean as possible. Dry it, and rub it with a cut lemon or a little vinegar. Draw a sharp kmife just through the skin in the thickest part of the middle of the back on the dark side of the fish. This is to keep the skin from cracking on the white side. Put as much cold water as wjll be required to cover the fish into a turbot-kettle, and dissolve in this a little salt in the proportion of six ounces of salt to a gallon of water. Bring the water to the boil and remove the scum as it rises. Lay the turbot on the fish-drainer the white side up, lower it into the boiling water, draw it back at once, and simmer the fish very gently until it is done enough. As soon as this point is reached, take it up, drain the water from it, and slip it, the white side up, upon a hot dish covered with a napkin or fish-paper. Garnish with parsley, cut lemon, and scraped horseradish, and if it should happen unfor- tunately that the fish is at all cracked, lay two or threé little pieces of parsley upon it, so as to cover the crack. Plain melted butter. shrimp sauce, anchovy sauce, Dutch sauce, and lobster sauce may all be served with boiled turbot. When lobster sauce is used, a little of the spawn may be rubbed through a sieve and sprinkled over the fish. Some cooks have an idea that the best parts of the fish lie in the back, therefore they dish the turbot with the dark side uppermost. However this may be, the turbot Jooks best with the white side on the top. It is impossible to give the exact time for boiling, as turbot varies much in thickness as well as in size. ‘When the flesh appears to shrink from the bone it is done, and: it should be carefully watched, as if it boils too long it will be broken and spoilt. Time, a moderate- sized turbot, fifteen to twenty minutes to simmer gently from the time the water boils; large, twenty to thirty-five minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. Turbot, Broiled.—Clean a small turbot, and dry it well. Lay it on a dish, sprinkle a little pepper and salt on it, and pour over it four table-spoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar or lemon-juice. When it is to be dressed place it in a double gridiron, and broil it over a slow clear fire. Turn it every five or six minutes, and on each occasion brush it over with the marinade in the dish. When it is done enough —that is, when the flesh will leave the bone easily—put it upon a hot dish, and pour over it some good white sauce, or oyster sauce, 0: mussel sauce. Garnish with parsley and prawns. Time to broil, about half an hour. Turbot, Broiled (another way).—Mari- nade the turbot in sweet oil, salt, pepper, &c., and broil it on a slow fire: it cannot be suf- ficiently done in this way in less than an hour. ‘When you serve, cover with caper sauce, which is to be made as follows:—Make some melted butter with a little glaze in it; when melted, throw in some essence of anchovies, a few capers, and a drop of vinegar. Thon give a good seasoning, and pour the sauce over the fish. Turbot, Broiled, with Caper Sauce. —Take a small fish emptied and washed, make an incision in the back down to the bone; then wipe it quite dry ; next lay it in a dish to steep in salt, pepper, and sweet oil; put in very little oil, as it requires only sufficient to prevent it from drying. Half an hour, or even three- quarters of an hour, before dinner-time, broil the fish over a slow fire on both sides, and serve up with caper sauce. Turbot, Carving of.—Run the fish-knife down from a to 4, quite through the bone (sce Fig. p. 1000); then cut slices in the direction of the dotted lines ¢ e and ¢ d. Turbot, Choosing of.—A middle-sized fish is the best. “Turbot ought to be thick and of a cream-coloured white. If of a bluish tint and thin it is not good. The flesh ought to feel springy under pressure from the finger. Some- times turbot is slightly disfigured by having two or three red spots on the under side, and may be bought at a cheaper rate in consequence. These spots often disappear when they are rubbed with salt and lemon. Turbot is at its best from April to September. Turbot, Cold, To Serve a Second Time.—Turbot is so delicious and so ex- pensive that none of it should be wasted. The cold remains may be served in various ways, the different recipes for which are here given. They may be warmed in white sauce (see Turbot a la Béchamel and 4 la oo served with bread- crumbs (see Turbot 4 la Créme Gratiné); they may be made into salad (sce Turbot Salad), or curried, or pickled, or scalloped, or made into croquettes, or into a turbot pie, or into patties or vol-au-vents, or cut into neat pieces, and TUR ( 1002 ) TUR served cold with shrimp chutney. The follow- ing is a simple and excellent recipe for dressing cold turbot a second time :—Remove the skin and the bones, and divide the flesh into neat pieces conveniént for serving. Warm any cold sauce that may be left, and stir in with it a fourth of its quantity in milk or cream, and add a few drops of anchovy essence and a little pepper and salt. Put the pieces of fish into the sauce, and let them heat through, but do not let them boil. Serve the fish very hot. Time, three or four minutes to heat the fish. Turbot, Cold, with Shrimp Chut- ney.—Lift the flesh from the bones, free it from skin, and divide it into neat pieces. Lay if on a dish, garnish with green parsley, and send the following preparation to table with it: —Shell a pint of fresh shrimps, mince them finely, pound them to a smooth paste, and season with cayenne and a little salt if re- quired. Mix with them lucca oil and best vinegar, enough to make a smooth paste. The proper proportions are one spoonful of vinegar to two of oil, but in regard to this individual taste must be consulted. The chutney when finished should be of the consistency of thick boiled custard. A little finely-minced shallot may be added or not. Turbot, Cooking of.—With a celebrated gastronomic philosopher, the turbot is the king of fish, especially in Lent, as it is then of most majestic size. You may serve up salmon with as much ornament as you will, but a turbot asks for nothing but aristocratic sim- plicity. On the day after he makes his first appearance, it is quite another affair. It may be then disguised; and the best manner of effecting this is to dress him 4 la Béchamel, a preparation thus called from’ the Marquis de Béchamel, who, in the reign of Louis XIV. for ever immortalised himself by this one ragoit. Turbot Croquettes.—Take the remains of cold turbot; free the flesh from skin and bone, mince finely, season with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg, and add an equal weight of bread-crumbs moistened with very thick white sauce—or, failing this, hot milk—a little chopped parsley, and enough butter to form a smooth paste. Form the mixture into small balls or cones. Dip these first into beaten egg, and afterwards into bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly and equally browned all over. Drain them from the fat, and serve neatly arranged on a napkin. Garnish the dish with parsley, and send good fish sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry the croquettes, five or six minutes. Turbot, Curried.—Peel and mince finely a large onion, and fry it in butter till it is quite tender. Rub it through a sieve, and mix smoothly with the pulp a tea-spoonful of ground rice, a table-spoonful of curry-paste or powder, the strained juice of a lemon, and two table-spoonfuls of good stock, and simmer the sauce very gently for ten or twelve minutes. Add a little salt if necessary, and two table- spoonfuls of thick cream. Put in about a pound of cold-dressed turbot, already freed trom skin and bone, and divided into pieces aninch square. Let the fish get quite hot, and serve the curry on a hot. dish, with 2 wall of boiled rice round it, Time, altogether, half an hour. Turbot Fillets.—A small turbot may be used for this purpose, or if a turbot is larger than is required for immediate use, it may be cut in halves, one half may be filleted, and the other half dressed in a different way. Clean and dry the fish, and raise the flesh from the bones with a sharp Imife. Take off the dark skin, but leave the white skin untouched. Divide the meat into neat pieces the size and shape of small cutlets, and either fry, stew, or bake them. To fry them, dip them into beaten egg and bread-crumbs, fry in hot fat till they are lightly browned, drain them, serve neatly arranged like cutlets on a folded napkin, and garnish with fried parsley. To bake them, put a pound of the filleted meat, arranged in a single layer, into a baking- dish with two ounces of sweet butter, a little pepper and salt, and the strained juice of a lemon. Put them in a brisk oven, baste well with the liquor, and bake until done enough. Dish them as before. To stew them, remove all the skin from the fish, dredge the fillets with some flour, and fry them till they are lightly browned. Put them into the stewpan, and pour over them as much nicely-seasoned stock as will cover them. Let them stew gently until done enough. Lift them out of the sauce with a fish-slice, lay them on a hot dish, and keep them warm. Skim the gravy, thicken with a spoonful of brown thickening, add a spoonful of mushroom ketchup and a glassful of light wine, let it boil up, and strain it over the fish. Serve very hot. Time to fry the fillets, five or siz minutes; to bake them, about twenty minutes; to stew them, ten to fifteen minutes. Turbot, Fillets of (au_Gratin).—Take the remains of dressed fish. Free it from skin and bone, and divide it into small neat fillets. Mince three or four button mushrooms finely, mix with them a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. and half a shallot finely minced. Season with pepper and salt, and fry them over a gentle fire till they are soft. Spread them at the bottom of a small thickly-buttered silver—or, failing this, tin—baking-dish, lay the pieces of fish upon them, and cover with a thick:layer of finely-grated bread- crumbs. Stick little pieces of butter here and there on the top, moisten the fish with a little light wine, and bake in a brisk oven. If ne- cessary, brown the surface by holding a red- hot shovel over it, or putting it before the fire for a minute or two, and just before sending the dish to table squeeze the juice of a lemon over the fish. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Turbot, Patties or Vol-au-vents of. —Line some patty-pans with good. puff-paste, or make some small vol-au-vents according to the direct.ons already given (see Puff-Paste, Vol-au-vents of). Bake them, and while still hot fill them with the following preparation: —Take the white meat of the turbot freed from skin and bone, mince it finely, and ay ¥ TUR ( 1008 ) TUR season with pepper and salt. Put into a | fortwo or three minutes, and mix with them a stewpan two or three table-spoonfuls of thick cream, the quantity to be regulated by that of the fish. Thicken the cream by boiling it with a slice of butter rolled'in flour, and when it is quite hot put the minced fish into it that it may heat also. It should be remembered that the seasoned mince should be of a good con- sistency, or it will soak through the pastry. Fill the hot patties or the hot vol-au-vents with the hot mince, and serve on a neatly-folded napkin. Time, a few minutes to prepare the mince. Turbot, Pickled.—Take the remains of a dressed turbot; lift the flesh from the bones in large pieces, and put these in a deep dish. Put the bones and trimmings into 4 saucepan with a pint of water, and add an onion stuck with two cloves, a small turnip and carrot, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay- leaf. Simmer these gently for half an hour, then add a glassful of sherry, or, if preferred, a quarter of a pint of vinegar. Let the liquor cool, and strain it over the fish. Serve quite cold. Time to boil the pickle, half an hour. Turbot Pie.—Take the remains of cold turbot, free the white flesh from skin and bone, tear it into flakes, and season with pepper, salt, and a small portion of powdered mace. Spread it at the bottom of a thickly-buttered baking-dish, and pour over it any sauce that was left with it, either melted butter, white sauce, oyster sauce, or any other kind. If there is no cold sauce, put two or three ounces of clarified butter over the fish. Mash some potatoes with hot milk and a little butter, and spread a layer of these fully an inch and a half deep over the fish. Rough the top with a fork, and heat the pie in a brisk oven. If it is not nicely browned on the top, put it in front of a clear fire for a few minutes before sending it to table, or hold a salamander or a red-hot fire-shovel over it. Serve very hot. Time to bake the pie, about half an hour. | Turbot, Roe of.— Handle the roe as lightly as possible. Blanch and cut it into slices. Put it into a buttered dish, bake it until done enough, and keep it well basted during the process. Put it on a hot dish, and pour over it as much nicely-flavoured white sauce as will cover it. Garnish the dish with parsley and sliced lemon, and serve very hot. Time ‘to bake the roe, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Sufficient for a small dish. Turbot Salad.—The remains of dressed turbot will make a most delicious salad. Lift the flesh from the bones, free it from skin and bone, and divide it into pieces an inch anda half square. Season these slightly with pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar, cover the dish on which they are, and leave them in a cool place till wanted. Wash two large fresh lettuces or any suitable salad. Dry them perfectly by putting them in small quantities at a time into a clean cloth, then taking this up loosely by the four corners and shaking the ‘moisture ‘from the leaves. Cut them into neat'pieces half an inch broad, and leave them in an airy place till wanted. Beat the raw yolks of two fresh eggs spoonful of mixed mustard, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a little white pepper. Add first by drops and afterwards by tea-spoonfuls four table-spoontfuls of lucca oil, and beat the sauce well for a minute between every addition. Afterwards stir in gradually a tea-spoonful of good French vinegar and a few drops of tarragon vinegar: Add more oil and vinegar in the same proportions until the sauce is of the consistency of thick boiled custard. Leave it in a cool place till wanted. Arrange the salad just before it is to be sent to table. | First put a layer of lettuce lightly at the bottom of the dish: Put some turbot upon it, and repeat until the materials are used. Garnish the dish in any way that may be preferred with hard- boiled eggs, sliced cucumber, beetroot, olives, filleted anchovies, &c. Pour the sauce over at the last moment, and in arranging the: salad pour a small quantity of sauce over each layer of fish. Time, half an hour to prepare the sauce. It is better for being made an hour or two before it is wanted. Turbot, Sauce: for.—Turbot may be served with plain melted’ butter, lobster sauce, Dutch sauce, parsley sauce, white sauce, shrimp sauce, muscle sauce, or Italian sauce. It is very good eaten cold with sliced cucumber and salad sauce. The great French cook Caréme never sent any other sauce than melted butter to table with turbot. Turbot, Scalloped.—Take the remains of cold turbot, lift the flesh from the bones, and remove the skin. Weigh the white meat, and for each pound allow ‘six ounces of grated bread-crumbs seasoned with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Cut the fish into small pieces, season’ with salt and pepper, and mix with it either a table-spoonful of cold sauce or two ounces of clarified butter. Butter some scallop-shells rather thickly. Place a layer of seasoned crumbs at the bottom of each, then lay in the fish, and sprinkle more crumbs thickly on the top. Lay little pieces of butter here and there on the surface, and put the shells in a brisk oven. When they. are quite hot lift them out, and serve the fish in the shells neatly arranged on a folded napkin. If scallop-shells are not at hand, a small baking- dish may be used instead. If preferred, the same quantity of mashed potatoes may be used instead of the bread-crumbs. ‘Time to bake the fish in the shells, a quarter of an. hour. Turbot, Stewed.—Take a small turbot, clean it perfectly, dry it well, and cut it into thin slices. Make a- sauce of thin melted butter boiled up with a little salt and cayenne, a filleted anchovy, a dessert-spoonful of mush- room ketchup, a tea-spoonful of walnut pickle, and a glassful of claret. Fry the slices of fish in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them, and put them into the sauce. Let. them simmer gently for five minutes. Take them up carefully with a fish-slice so as not to break them, lay them on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve immediately. Garnish with sliced lemon. Time to fry the fish, five minutes; to simmer it in the sauce, five minutes. TUR ( 1004 ) TUR Turbot, Timbales of (4 Ja Vénitienne). —This is a dish made of the remains of turbot. It requires but little of the flesh of the fish. Cut whatever is left of the turbot into dice as smallas possible. Tomake the sauce, take three spoonfuls of hot béchamel, to which add a good lump of butter, salt, fine white pepper, a little parsley chopped very fine and well squeezed in a towel that it may not give a green colour to the sauce; then add a little cavice. Keep stir- ring your sauce, which is generally called working it. The French term is vanner— taking up the sauce in a spoon, and pouring it perpendicularly into the stewpan, repeat- ing the operation frequently and very quick to make the sauce transparent. Whén it is mellow, and of a good taste, throw in the turbot which you have cut into dice, keep it hot, and when ready for sending to table gar- nish the little timbales with the turbot. Let them lay for a moment in the oven, and serve hot. Turesicus.—Take part of a cold boiled leg of mutton, mince it very fine, mix it with rice, season very lightly with black pepper, add salt, and make it into balls the size of a small egg. Tie each ball separately in a cabbage-leaf, boil it about half an hour, and serve at once very hot. Turin Cakes.— Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds and four bitter ones, and pound them to a paste with the white of anegg. Beat the yolks of five fresh eggs, and work in with them gradually the almond paste and eight ounces of powdered white sugar. When these ingredients are well beaten, add an ounce of potato-flour, two ounces of fine flour, and the well-whisked whites of the eggs. Pour the preparation into buttered and sugared tartlet- tins, and bake in a moderate oven. Time to bake, about half an hour, according to size. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. for this quantity. Turkey.—The turkey is highly esteemed and usually commands a high price, especially at Christmas, when most extravagant prices are often demanded and obtained for large, well-fed birds. ‘Turkeys are in season from September to March, and are at their best in December and January. If the weather is suitable, they should be hung fully a week before being dressed. In very cold weather, care must be taken that they are not frozen in hanging, and if this is the case, they should be brought into a warm place for some hours before being cooked, or they will be spoilt. The hen bird is considered the best. Brillat Savarin says :— The turkey is the largest, and if not the most delicate, at least the most savoury, of domestic poultry. It enjoys the singular advantage of assembling round it every class of society. When our farmers and wine- growers regale themselves on a winter’s even- ing, what do we see roasting before the kitchen fire, close to which the white-clothed table is set? Aturkey. When the useful tradesman, or the hard-worked artist, invites a few friends to an occasional treat, what dish is he expected to set beforethem? A nice roast turkey stuffed with sausage meat and Lyons chestnuts. And in our highest gastronomical society, when politics are obliged to give way to dissertations on matters of taste, what is desired, what is awaited, what is looked out for at the second course? A truffled turkey. In my ‘Secret Memoirs, I find sundry notes recording that on many occasions its restorative juice has illumined diplomatic faces of the highest emi- nence.” Turkey, Blanquette of.—Cut the meat from'the remains of a dressed turkey into neat slices, cover these with a cloth, and set them in a cool place till wanted. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with two ounces of lean ham or a piece of bacon-rind, a small onion finely-minced, a blade of mace, and as much cold stock or water as will cover them. Let all simmer gently together for half an hour or more. Strain the liquor, and put it back into the saucepan with half a gill of thick cream, half a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Let the sauce simmer for ten minutes, put in the slices of turkey, let them heat for two or three minutes, then add gradually the well-beaten yolk of an egg, and be careful to mix a little of the sauce with,the egg in a basin before putting it to the rest. Stir gently for a few minutes till the sauce is set, but on no account allow it to boil after the egg is added. Serve the preparation on a hot dish with toasted sippets round it. Time, altogether, about an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold turkey, 9d. Sufficient, with a pound of meat, for two or three persons. Turkey, Boiled.—There is an old pro- verb which says that turkey boiled is turkey spoiled, but in this couplet there is more rhyme than reason, as a boiled turkey forms a dainty dish most.acceptable to persons with delicate stomachs, who fear the richness cf the roasted bird, and also presents an agreeable change to those who during the Christmas festivities are tired of having roasted turkey constantly set before them. A boiled turkey is prepared as follows :—Take a plump hen turkey which has hung for five or six days (weather permitting), pluck, singe, and draw it, fill it with veal or oyster forcemeat, or with chestnuts, truss it for boiling, and remember to draw the legs into the body, and bind it securely with tape. Dredge flour over it, put if into an oval pan with warm water just sufficient to cover it, and put with it a tea-spoonful of salt, a carrot, an onion stuck with four cloves, a dozen pepper- corns, a few sticks of celery, and a bunch of parsley. Bring it slowly to the boil, skim the liquor carefully, and let it simmer very gently until the turkey is tender. .Take it up, drain it for a moment, serve on a hot dish, pour a little melted butter or white sauce over it, as all the company may not prefer oyster sauce, and send parsley and butter, celery sauce, oyster sauce, chestnut sauce, Dutch sauce, or even good melted butter flavoured with horse- radish, to table with it. A small ham boiled, a red tongue, or even a good cheek of bacon are all suitable accompaniments to boiled turkey, and the dish containing it may be garnished with bacon and sliced tongue, or with sliced lemon and parsley, forcemeat, balls, TUR ( 1005 ) TUR or barberries. Many cooks wrap the turkey in a floured cloth before putting it in to boil, but this spoils the stock, and will be rendered unnecessary if the scum is carefully removed as it rises. Time to simmer gently—a turkey weighing ten pounds, two hours from the time the water reaches the boiling point; fifteen pounds, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 6s. to 12s., excepting at Christmas. Turkey, Boiled, and Stuffed with Tongue.—Take a small boiled pickled tongue. Cut off the root entirely, leaving only a small portion of the fat. Pluck, draw, singe, and bone a turkey, and cut off the legs, but not the wings. Nearly fill the inside with good veal forcemeat, push the tongue into the centre of the stuffing, and sew the skin over the back securely. ‘Truss the bird firmly, and restore it as nearly as possible to its original shape. Cover the breast with thin slices of fat bacon, tie the bird in a clean white cloth, and boil it according to the directions given in the last recipe, being careful to simmer it very gently, for fear the skin should break. Serve it hot or cold with white or celery sauce, and in carving cut slices across the breast, so that turkey, tongue, and forcemeat may be served together. Tf this dish is intended for supper, let the turkey stand in a cool place for an hour or two, then pour over it some good white sauce luke- warm, ornament with cut lemon, truffle, &c., and garnish the dish with aspic jelly, lemon, and parsley. Turkey, Boning of.—Boning poultry is a difficult business for the inexperienced, and generally speaking is best left to the poulterer. | Written instructions for its accomplishment are almost valueless, and the knowledge gained from them is worth very little compared to that which may be derived from once watching an experienced cook perform the operation. ‘Tur- keys are usually boned without the skin being cut up the back. To do this the joints are Joosened inside the bird, the flesh raised with a short sharp-pointed knife, and the bones drawn out gradually, the flesh being laid back, until the body is turnéd inside out, when the boning may be easily finished. When a turkey has been boned, the legs and wings are generally drawn into the body of the bird, and care must be taken to simmer and then to cool the bird very gently, for fear the skin should burst. Turkey, Braised.—An_old turkey is _ never so good asa young one. When, however, @ young one cannot be obtained, the old one will be more likely to give satisfaction if it is braised than if it is roasted. Pluck and singe the bird, cut off the neck and legs, empty it, and save the heart, liver,and gizzard. Cut the neck into three pieces, clean and scald the legs and the gizzard, and peel off the outer scaly skin from the legs and the thick inner skin from the gizzard. Cover the bird with thin slices of unsmoked fat bacon, and tie it round with twine to keep it in shape. Put three or four slices of bacon into a braising-pan, lay the turkey on these, and put in with it the giblets and trimmings of the turkey, and a calf’s foot cut'in two, or two sheep’s trotters, together with four onions stuck with three cloves, three carrots, a parsnip, two bay-leaves, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a little salt and pepper, and half a clove of garlic, if liked. Some cooks add one or two glassfuls of wine and a glassful of brandy, but these are unnecessary. Lay two or three slices of bacon over the tur- key, and almost cover it with good stock. Put the lid on the stewpan, and simmer its contents very gently from four to six hours, according to the size ofthe bird. If an ordinary stewpan is used instead of a proper braising-pan, which will hold embers in the lid, turn the turkey over when it is half done. Braised turkey may be served either hot or cold. If it is to be eaten hot, lay it upon the dish, surround it with the best of vegetables stewed in it, or with a chipolata garnish prepared separately, and pour over it a small portion of the gravy freed from fat, and thickened with brown thickening. If it is to be served cold, let it remain in the gravy in which it was stewed for half an hour after taking it from the fire. Strain the liquor, and boil till it is reduced to two-thirds its original quantity, so that it. will form a jelly when cold. Strain this, and free it entirely from fat. If necessary, clear it with white of egg, according to the directions given for clarifying jelly. Brush two coats of this jelly over the turkey, then let the rest get cold and stiff; cut it into dice, stars, strips, or other devices, and use it for garnishing the dish. ' Time to braise the turkey, according to size. Probable cost, un- certain. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Turkey, Carving of.—The breast of a turkey is so large, that slices taken neatly from it and from the wings generally suffice for all TURKEY, ROAST, TO CARVE. the company. They should be taken from each side alternately, beginning close to the wings, and a little forcemeat and a small portion of liver should be served to each guest. When it is necessary for the legs to be used, they should be separated from the body with a sharp knife and cut in slices, but it should be remembered that they, with the gizzard, will make an ex- cellent devil. Turkey, Choosing of.—A hen turkey is the best, and it should be young and plump. Tf young, the legs will be black and smooth. If fresh, the eyes will be bright and the feet supple. The length of the spur will show whether or not a cock turkey is young. Tur- keys are in season from September to February, and are at their best at Christmas. They should be hung at least a week in suitable weather, but if there is any fear that they are frozen, they TUR should be-keptina warm kitchen for;some ‘hours before being -dressed. . It.:is generally; under- stood that a moderatesized turkey is; more likely to: be tender ‘than:a very. Jarge one. . Durkey, Cold,.to Fry.—Dividethe re- mains of a cold :turkey into neat joints:con- venient for serving. Dip these into beaten egg, and afterwards into seasoned bread-crumbs,iand fry them in hot fat:-till they are lightly browned. Arrange them: neatly on a:dish, and: pour over them ‘a :little:.good: gravy ‘made as follows :— Put ‘the ‘bones and ‘trimmings into.a saucepan with as much stock:or water as will coverthem, a:bunch of parsley, one or two'sticks of :celery, and a little pepper and salt. Let them:simmer gently for an hour,pour out the liquor, strain and: skim.it. ‘Mince two ounces of lean ham finely, and brown them gently in a little butter. Dredge some flour over them,and pour to them the strained ‘gravy from the ‘bones. Stew the gravy gently until it is wanted, skim well, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with toasted ‘sippets and sliced lemon. Time, one hour and a half: to make ‘the gravy, five or six minutes to fry the-joints of turkey. Turkey,. Devil of, : Dry.—The legs, back, gizzard, and rump ‘of .cold«dressed tur- key may'-be used!for this dish. ‘Score-the meat along and across at regular distances, three- quarters of an inch apart, and three-quarters of an inch deep. Rub into the.gashes a well- mixed seasoning made of a salt-spoonful of white pepper, a salt-spoonful of salt, a quarter of a salt-spoonful of cayenne, ‘and the strained. juice of a lemon, and cover with freshly-maie mus- tard. Brush the pieces of meat over with butter or oil, and broil over a clear fire till they are brown and crisp without being at all burnt, and turn them over that they may be equally done on both sides. Send to table on a hot dish with little pieces of butter upon them. Dry toast may be served as an accompaniment. The devil will be all the more savoury if it is prepared some hours before it is broiled. If liked, half a clove of garlic may be minced and mixed with the seasoning, or the following in- gredients may be used for flavouring instead of those given above :—Halfa salt-spoonful of salt, half a salt-spoonful of curry-powder, half a salt- spoonful of cayenne, and a heaped salt-spoon- ful of mushroom or truffle-powder. Time, five minutes to prepare the devil, seven to :ten minutes to broil-it. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost, exclusive of the meat, about 3d. Turkey, Devil of, ‘with Sauce.— Devilled turkey prepared as above may be sent to table with sauce Robert, grill sauce, poivrade ‘sauce, curry sauce, thick melted butter flavoured with anchovy or ketchup, or with a sauce pre- spared as follows :—Mince four shallots or four young onions very finely, and put them into a small ‘stewpan with as. much good vinegar as will moisten them. Let them simmer gently till they are soft, then :add a wine-glassful of ‘stvong gravy, a pinch of cayenne, half a glassful of ‘wine, and a small nut of anchovy butter, or if this is not at hand, use six or eight drops of the essence of anchovy, and stir a small lump of ( 1006 ) TUR ———., butter info the same.after it is strained,and put into the tureen. . Boil the sauce ‘two or three minutes longer,andserve. If liked, the savoury . joints may be stewed in..as much. stock .as-will barely. cover’ them, and: served on a hot dish with the sauce poured over them, and garnished | with hard-boiled.eggs cut: in quarters length- ways, and arranged round the ‘dish alternately with toasted :sippets. ‘Time to stew the legs, &c., nearly half an hour. Probable cost, vary- ing with the-gauce. ‘Sufficient for four or five persons. Turkey, Drawing of.—Lay the bird.on its breast,.push back the skin of the .neck,.and ) cut the neck itself off close to ‘the :body, but leave the skin long that it may be securely turned over. Remove the windpipe,.and loosen the inside of the throat with the finger.. Make an incision under the tail an inch and a half long, with the fingers remove the-crop.and the _ intestines, and be particularly. careful not to break the gall-bladder, which is:fastened.to the liver, nor to let any of the gall touch-the bird, as it will impart .a bitter taste which cannot afterwards be removed. Wash the inside with a soft rag, pour water through it, and. dry it carefully. ‘Turkey, ‘Dressed to Hat Cold.—Cold ‘turkey makes.a ‘very useful dish for suppers, luncheons, collations,&c. It may either \be stewed or roasted, and may be. dished whole and glazed, when it will form a handsome dish; or it may be cut into pieces convenient for serving, when two dishes at least may be made of it. If itis to be roasted, stuff it with | sausage-meat, truss it firmly, and roast. in the usual way. Let it get cold, then lay two coats of dissolved glaze lightly and evenly. upon it with a brush, and remember that one icoat must dry perfectly before another is put on. When it is not convenient to prepare this glaze at home, it may be bought at the Italian ware- houses, and a quarter of a pound will.be.more than sufficient for a good-sized turkey.. Garnish the turkey as prettily as: possible with parsley, cut lemon, real or artificial camellias, -aspic jelly, beetroot, or. any other devices; ornament the dish with parsley and cut lemon, amd. fill the empty spaces in the centre of the dish with clear aspic ity cut small. If the turkey is to be stewed; bone it if practicable, fill. it with forcemeat, and lard the breast evenly with bacon. ‘Truss the bird firmly, and lay it ina stewpan just large enough to hold it, with two shallots, a small onion stuck with one clove, a - bunch of parsley, half a blade of,mace, a dozen peppercorns, and a clove of garlic if the flavour is liked. Covyer.the bird with white stock, and let it simmer very.gently until it is half done; then add two glassfuls of sherry, and simmer again until done enough. Lift it upon a dish, and let it.cool. Strain the gravy, and boil it again until it is .so much reduced that‘it will jelly. Strain it once more, and, if necessary, clear with white of egg, according to . the directions given for clarifying jelly. Glaze the turkey with this, and serve on a napkin ‘garnished with parsley, cut lemon, beetroot, &c. If the turkey is to be cut up into pieces convenient for serving, divide it while the bird TUR ( 1007 ) ig warm. Lay the pieces neatly on-the-dishes, and allot to each..dish an equal-share. of white and “brown meat, small pieces .of stuffing, and of liver. Cut the heart, neck; and gizzard into-small pieces, and put-them. into .astewpan with any trimmings that. there may’ -be,: the gravy that dropped from the bird when it was roasted, and a calf’s foot or-a little piece of the knuckle of veal, so as.to form a stock-that will jelly when cold. Let all simmer gently to- gether for three or four hours; strain the stock, skim the fat fram the. top, put it into a clean saucepan, and mix smooi with it as much flour as will form.a paste. Stir this quickly over the fire for two or ‘three minutes till itis lightly browned; add the ‘strained stock gradually, some pepper and salt, and also alittle claret, ketchup, or any other flavouring. Pour some of this sauce over the pieces of turkey in; each dish, so that they shall be lightly covered with it. Let them cool and stiffen before removing them. -Garnish with fresh parsley hefore serving. The thighs of the turkey are sometimes reserved for broiling. Time, two hours to stew a good-sized turkey. Probable cost, uncertain. Turkey, Forcemeat for.—Shred very finely four ounces of beef suet or beef marrow; | add four ounces .of finely-grated bread-crumbs, | a quarter of an ounce of mixed savoury herbs, © of which two-thirds should be parsley and the remainder sweet marjoram or lemon thyme, a quarter of an ounce of fresh lemon-rind finely grated, and a little nutmeg, pepper, salt, and - cayenne. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and bind: them together with the yolks and white of two eggs. A large turkey will require double the quantity of forcemeat, which the above ingredients will make, and many cooks use equal weights of sausage-meat and force- meat well mixed together. Or shred finely four ounces of beef suet, and add four ounces of grated bread-crumbs, four ounces of lean undressed veal, a quarter of an ounce of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered thyme, a shallot finely minced,.and a little pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Pound the ingredients | thoroughly, and bind the mixture together . with the unbeaten yolk of an egg. Or mix the above ingredients, and add a dozen bearded oysters finely minced, and a filleted anchovy, or two ounces of dressed lean ham or tongue finely grated. Tinned oysters may be used insterd’ of fresh ones. Oyster sauce should be used with this. forcemeat, which: is suitable for a'boiled turkey. Time, twenty minutes to prepare. Turkey, Forcemeat of Chestnuts for.—Mince finely a pound of fat, unsmoked bacon and three-quarters of a pound of lean, undressed veal. Season the mince with salt, | pepper, and grated nutmeg, and pound it ina mortar till smooth. Roast and peel three dozen chestnuts, and put them into the body of the bird with the forcemeat. Or roast a pint of chestnuts gently, and peel them; weigh them, and simmer half 4 pound of them for twenty minutes in as much veal gravy as will cover them. Drain them, and let them cool, ther pound them in a mortar with four ounces , \ of fresh butter;.threo ounces of grated bread- crumbs, a pinch.of grated lemon-rind,.a smaller one of powdered mace, anda, little pepper, salt, and.cayenne. Bind the. mixture, together with the.unbeaten yolks of three eges. -‘Purkey, Galantine of.— This dish, though rather troublesome to pare, ‘is an excellent one for a supper or collation. Pluck, draw, and singe a plump hen turkey ; cut it in two down the ‘breast, cut off the -wings and neck, and bone it carefully without injuring the skin, first removing the back-bone. ‘Re- move some of the flesh from the inside of the turkey and from the legs, especially all the sinews. Lay the turkey flat on the table, skin downwards, and. truss the legs inside. Spread on it a layer of veal forcemeat an inch deep, then put a layer’ of the meat cut from the turkey, and on this some strips of cooked lean ham and fat bacon, lean veal, boiled tongue, with three or four sliced truffles, if obtainable. The meat andthe truffles must be laid on in such a way that the colours will contrast. Put another layer of forcemeat on ‘the top, and season the whole with pepper and salt. Turn the skin over, roll the turkey in the form of alarge sausage, and sew it up securely that the contents may not escape. Lay thin slices of fat bacon round it, and tie it.in‘a cloth. Put it into a stewpan, cover with’ nicely-seasoned stock, and ‘let it simmer gently for four hours. Two or three onions stuck with cloves, a bay- leaf, three sliced carrots, a bunch of ‘parsley, and a sprig of thyme may be stewed in the stock with the turkey. Put the bones of ‘the turkey into a separate. stewpan with a few spoonfuls of stock, and let :them simmer gently for an hour. Strain the liquor, stir a wine-glassful of white wine into it, and pour this broth into the pan containing the turkey. ‘When the ine is sufficiently dressed, lift it from the fire, and let it remain in the liquor for an hour. ‘Tie it in a fresh cloth, and lay it ona dish; put a weight upon it so that.it may be-pressed and still retain its shape, and let it remain until cold. Remove the cloth, clear it from fat, and brush two coats of glaze over it. Ornament with aspic jelly, beetroot, and eggs ‘cut into. various shapes, or with truffles, &c., stuck into it with silver skewers. Time, four hours to simmer the galantine. Sufficient for a large-supper-dish. Turkey Giblets, Fricasseed.—Take one set of turkey giblets ; these comprehend the wings, the feet, the gizzard, the liver, the head, and the neck. Clean them all carefully, skin and trim the feet, skin the gizzard and divide it into quarters, cut ‘the neck into four pieces, and the -wings and legs each into two pieces; skin, ‘split, and clean the head, and slice the liver. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and put inthe giblets, with the exception of the liver, together with a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, another of basil, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a little pepper and salt. Fry these ingredients gently till they are lightly browned. Pour over them a pint of stock, and let them simmer gently until done enough. Lift them out, skim and strain the gravy, and thicken it with a TUR ( 1008 ) TUR tea-spoonful of brown thickening. Put in the giblets once more with the liver, and simmer all gently for ten minutes. Arrange the giblets neatly in the centre of a dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve very hot. Any kind of vegetables may accompany this dish. Time, one hour and a half to simmer the giblets. Sufficient for three or four persons. Turkey Giblets with Turnips and Potatoes.—Prepare the giblets as above. Take half a pound of streaky bacon, and cut it into convenient-sized pieces. Fry these in a little butter till they are lightly browned. Lift them out, then put in the giblets, and fry them in the same butter. Pour gravy over them, and simmer gently as in the last recipe. Cut three or four large turnips to the shape of corks, and peel six or eight button onions. Put them into boiling water for five minutes, drain and dry them, fry them in one ounce of butter till they are lightly browned, and put them aside. Peel a dozen small potatoes, and trim them neatly. Skim, strain, and thicken the gravy in which the giblets are stewed, and put in with the bacon fried vegetables, soon enough for them to ‘be sufficiently dressed at the same time as the meat. They will require from fifteen minutes to half an hour, according to age and size. Arrange the giblets neatly in the centre of a hot dish, put the vegetables round them, pour the gravy over, and serve very hot. The wings only of turkeys are often stewed in this way. Time, one hour and a half. Sufficient for three or four persons. Turkey, Hashed.—Cut the remains of a cold dressed turkey into neat slices, dredge a little flour over them, put them into a stewpan, pour over them any sauce that may be left, and add a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, if required. Shake the pan over the fire until its contents are quite hot, but do not allow them to boil. Draw it tothe side of the fire, and let the hash simmer gently for ten or fifteen minutes. Cut the forcemeat-balls into slices, and warm these in the oven or before the fire. Arrange the turkey neatly on a hot dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with alternate slices of forcemeat and toasted sippets. A spoonful of pickled walnuts, pickled mushrooms, kernelled olives, or minced gherkins, simmered in the sauce, will pleasantly vary the flavour of the bash. When there is no sauce left from the previous day, alittle may be made as follows :—' Put the skin, bones, and trimmings of the turkey into a saucepan with a pint of stock or water, « shallot, a spoonful of parsley, four or five cloves, and two or three sliced mushrooms. Simmer the sauce gently for half an hour, strain it, season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and thicken with the crushed liver of the turkey and a little brown thickening. Before sending to table, a spoonful of lemon- juice may be added or not. ‘Time, half an hour, exclusive of the sauce. Turkey, Marinaded and Broiled.— Parboil a young turkey, and when cold cut it into neat joints. Bone these, and restore them to their original form. Lay them in a marinade made with four table-spoonfuls of vinegar, four table-spoonfuls of water, two table-spoonfuls of oil, three finely-minced shallots, two tea-spoon- fuls of salt, and one of pepper. Let them lie in this twelve hours, and turn them over two or three times that they may be equally seasoned. Drain them, dip them twice in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear fire. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Send to table with them a sauce prepared as follows :—Boil two eggs for ten minutes; put them in cold water for five minutes, and afterwards put the yolks into a mortar with four finely-minced shallots, a tea- spoonful of chopped tarragon-leaves, a tea- spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, and half a tea-spoonful of pepper. Pound the ingredients to a smooth paste, and then add very gradually, first by drops and afterwards by tea-spoonfuls, three table-spoonfuls of salad-oil, two of best vinegar, and one of chilli vinegar. Beat the sauce for a minute or two between every addition, and send it to table in a tureen. Time to broil the joints, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, turkey, 6s. or 8s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turkey, Minced.—When a turkey has been so far used that neat slices cannot be cut from it to make a hash, the remains may be minced as follows:—Cut off the meat, free it from skin, bone, and sinew, and mince it finely. Season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg, and put it into a stewpan with sufticient white sauce to moisten it. Let it simmer gently without boiling till it is quite hot, stirring all the time. Turn it upon a hot dish, and garnish with poached eggs and toasted sippets placed alternately. When the white sauce is not at hand, a little may be made as follows :—Put a quarter of a pint of stock into a saucepan with a thin strip of lemon-rind. Let it simmer gently a few moments till it is pleasantly flavoured with the lemon. Strain, and add gradually a dessert-spoonful of flour which has been smoothly mixed with three or four table-spoon- fuls of milk or cream. Stir the sauce gently over the fire for a few minutes till it is quite thick, and add pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg if required, and after it is taken from the fire stir half an ounce of fresh butter into it until dissolved. Time, a few minutes to heat tho mince. Turkey, Old, The Best Way of Dressing.—Stuff the turkey with veal force- meat, and truss it for boiling. Cut a pound of lean bacon into dice, and fry these in a quarter of a pound of butter over a clear fire till they are lightly browned. Put in the turkey, breast downwards. Cover the saucepan closely, and let it steam gently for an hour. Lift it out, dredge two table-spoonfuls of flour into the butter, and stir it briskly with the back of a wooden spoon tillit forms a smooth paste. Add gradually three or four pints of boiling stock, put in the turkey, and with it four or five large carrots sliced, four turnips, a dozen button onions, a large bunch of parsley, two bay- leaves, three or four sprigs of thyme, and a little Pepper and salt. Let all simmer gently together for four hours. Lift the turkey out, and keep it hot. Put the vegetables and sauce TUR ( 1009 ) TUR into a clean saucepan, place this by the side of the fire, and carefully remove the grease, &c., as it rises to the surface. When no more appears, boil the sauce quickly for a few minutes. Serve the turkey on a hot dish. Arrange the vegetables round it, and pour the sauce over. Garnish the dish with small boiled potatoes or with roasted chestnuts. Time to dress the turkey, five hours. Turkey Patties.—Make some patties or small vol-au-vents of good puff paste, and bake them separately. When they are baked enough, take them out of the oven, and three- parts fill them with a hot savoury mixture prepared as follows:—Mince a little of the white meat of a cold dressed turkey very finely, and add a small proportion of grated ham. Stew this gently for a minute or two in as much melted butter or good gravy as will barely cover it, add a spoonful of thick cream, and season the preparation with a little grated lemon-rind, white pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Care should be taken that the mince is made very thick, and that the patties are not filled so full that the gravy will run over. Time, a quarter of an hour to prepare the mince. Probable cost, patties, 2d. each, exclu- sive of the cold meat. Sufficient, eight or ten for a dish. Turkey Pinions, Stewed.— Remove | the large wing-bone from the pinions, and fold the skin over at the end. Fry the wings in a little butter till they are lightly browned, dredge some flour over, barely cover them with stock, and add a bunch of parsley, a small onion stuck with one clove, and a little pepper and salt. A glassful of claret may be put into the stock if liked. Let all simmer gently together for an hour, then add half a dozen small onions fried in butter, and four or five mushrooms chopped small. Just before serving the stew, mince a tea-spoonful of capers finely, and stir it intothe sauce. Put the pinions into the centre of a dish, pour the sauce over and round them, and garnish with toasted sippets. Time, an hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s., exclusive of the pinions. Sufficient, one set of pinions for one or two persons. Turkey Pinions, Stewed (another way). —Prepare the pinions as in the preceding re- cipe. Fry them in butter or bacon-fat till they are lightly browned, then pour some nicely- flavoured white stock over them, and simmer gently until done enough. Lay them between two dishes, and let them remain until cold. Strain the gravy, and free it entirely from fat. Boil quickly until it is so much reduced that it will jelly when cold. When the pinions are to be served, warm them in the gravy, and let the gravy simmer again until it is quite thick. Put the pinions on a dish, lightly cover them with the gravy, and send the rest to table in atureen, This dish may be sent to table with sorrel, or with a purée of chestnuts or lentils. Time, an hour and a half to stew the pinions. Sufficient, one set of pinions. for one or two persons. Turkey, Plucking of.—When plucking &@ turkey, or poultry of any kind, be careful to 64—n.z, pull out the feathers in the direction in which they lie. If this point is not attended to, the skin may be torn and the appearance of the bird spoiled. After the bird is plucked, singe off the hairs with a lighted paper. Turkey, Potted.—Take a small turkey weighing about five pounds; pluck, singe, draw, and bone it, and cut off the neck and ‘| legs. Lay it skin downwards on a table, season with pepper, salt, and powdered mace, spread a layer of forcemeat all over it, and roll it round. Choose a potting-pan of a suitable size for the turkey. Place a layer of forcemeat at the bottom, put in the bird, and cover with forcemeat. Lay three or four thin slices of fat bacon and a bay-leaf on the top. Cover the pan, and place it in a large saucepan with boiling water two inches deep, and add more boiling water as this evaporates to keep it to the same depth. Put it into the oven, and let it cook gently until done enough. In order to ascertain when this point is reached, push a trussing-needle right through the body of the bird, and when it enters easily the turkey may be taken out. Let it get cold, and cover the surface with a layer of good dripping or lard. Set it in a cool place for several hours, and it will be ready for use. The forcemeat may be made as follows :—Cut the meat in slices, free from skin and sinew, from the legs of the bird. Put with it half a pound of lean veal and a pound ; of fat bacon. Mince all finely together, and pound the mixture till it is quite smooth, and whilst pounding keep adding pepper, salt, and spice until it is pleasantly flavoured. The quantity of salt must be regulated by the quality of the bacon. Time to bake, three hours. Turkey, Potted (another way).—Cut the flesh from a cold roast turkey, and free it from skin and sinew. Weigh it, mince finely, and pound it in a mortar to a smooth paste with one-fourth of its weight in grated tongue or ham, an equal weight of fresh butter, and whilst pounding the meat keep adding salt, pepper, and powdered mace in small quantities at a time till it is pleasantly and rather highly seasoned. When the meat is quite smooth, press it into small pots, and cover with clarified butter a quarter of an inch deep. Store ina cool place. Time, three-quarters of an hour or more to prepare. Turkey Poult, Cold, To Re-dress. —The remains of a turkey poult may be minced, made into patties, croquettes, &c., or, indeed, dressed up in various ways very much like the larger bird. The following will be found to be the most satisfactory way of serving it a second time:—Cut the meat into neat pieces free from skin, bone, and sinew. Put the trimmings into a saucepan with a pint of white stock, a small bunch of parsley, a finely-minced shallot, and six mushrooms chopped small. Add pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and simmer the sauce till it is plea- santly flavoured and partly reduced. Strain it, thicken with a little white roux or with flour and butter, and add an equal quantity of new milk or cream. Stir it over the fire till it TUR ( 1010 ) TUR boils, put in the slices of meat, and let them simmer until they are quite hot; but the sauce must not boil after they are added. Put the meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish the dish with sliced lemon and parsley. Time: about an hour and a quarter to make the sauce; four or five minutes to heat the meat. Probable cost, if milk be used, 8d., exclusive of the cold turkey poult. Turkey Poult, To Roast.—The turkey poult or young turkey is an excellent substitute for the fully-grown bird, as it is most easily obtained in summer and autumn, when the large turkeys are out of season. The young ones may be said to be in season whenever they are large enough to be used. They may be roasted in the same way as a fully-grown bird. It is not usual to fill them with forcemeat, though some epicures, regardless of expense, are partial to them when stuffed with truffles, and served with perigueux sauce. Tongue, bacon, or sausages are generally sent to table with them. Turkey poults are trussed with the head tucked under the wing, and the legs twisted under like a duck. Unlike the grown bird, the feet may be left on, though the claws must be cut off. A turkey poult should be put down to a clear fire, liberally basted, and when done enough should be served on a dish garnished with watercress. Brown gravy and bread sauce should be sent to table with it. Time to roast, three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half, according to size. Turkey Poult, Truffled. — Fill the body of the bird with nicely-seasoned veal forcemeat, and add as many truffles as it may be wished to use, first cutting them into balls the size of a walnut. The trimmings of the truffles may be used to make sauce, or they may be minced and mixed with the forcemeat. Lard the breast of the bird, or, if this is not practicable, cover with thin slices of fat bacon, truss firmly, and put it down before a clear fire. Baste liberally, and serve truffle sauce or bread sauce with it. Time to roast, one hour or more, according to size. Turkey, Pulled.—Take the remains of a dressed turkey. Cut off the legs, and score the meat in them and the gizzard at regular dis- tances. Season highly, as for devilled turkey, and set them aside. Remove the skin from the body, and pull the white meat from the bones in long flakes with a fork. Put the bones and trimmings of the turkey into a stew- pan with a pinch of powdered mace, a finely- minced shallot, the rind and strained juice of half a lemon, a pint of stock, and a little pepper and salt. Let them simmer gently till the gravy is strong and pleasantly flavoured; strain and skim it, thicken with white thickening or with a little flour and butter, and add a quarter of a pint of milk or cream. Let the gravy boil a few minutes, then put in the meat, and let it simmer again until the latter is quite hot, but do not let the gravy boil after the meat is added. While the meat is simmering take the legs and gizzard already seasoned, dip them in clarified butter, and broil over a clear fire till they are lightly browned without being burnt. Put the pulled turkey with the sauce into the centre of a hot dish, lay the legs upon it, and serve very hot, The legs of the turkey should be turned every minute whilst they are being broiled. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold turkey, if milk is used. Sufficient for three or four persons. Turkey Rissoles.—Take the remains of cold-dressed turkey. Cut off the meat, free it from skin and sinew, and weigh it. Mince finely, and with a pound of meat put a quarter of a pound of grated tongue or lean ham, and a quarter of a pound of finely-grated bread- crumbs. Add two ounces of clarified butter or two ounces of fat bacon finely minced, a boiled onion chopped small, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. ix the ingredients thoroughly, and bind them together with the yolk of an egg. Roll out some puff paste very thin, stamp it out in rounds, and lay a spoonful of meat on each round. Moisten the edges of the pastry, and draw them together at the top of the meattoform a ball. Dip these in beaten egg, and fry in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain on a sieve before the fire for a few minutes to free them from fat, and serve piled on a neatly-folded napkin. Time, five or six minutes to fry the rissoles. Probable cost, 1s., exclusive of the cold turkey. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turkey, Roast.—-There are several me- thods of preparing a turkey for roasting. The bird may be simply trussed like a fowl, and roasted without being stuffed at all, and will be found excellent, the pure flavour of the bird being then presented unmixed with any taste that does not belong to it. When dressed in this way it should be served on 3, dish garnished with watercresses, and no other sauce than its own gravy should accompany it. The usual way of serving roast turkey, however, is to stuff it either with veal forcemeat, chestnuts, or sausage-meat, and to send it to table accom- panied by a string of sausages, bread sauce, and brown gravy, or chestnut sauce. Force- meat flavoured with oysters or mushrooms, and the accompanying sauces are more suitable for boiled than roast turkey. Pluck, draw, singe, and truss the turkey. Tie a buttered paper over the breast, and hang the bird before a clear fire. Baste frequently whilst it is being roasted. Unless this point is attended to the meat will be dry and tasteless. A quarter of an hour before the bird is taken down, remove the paper, dredge a little flour over the breast, and baste it well with cold butter. This will make the froth stronger than if hot dripping is used. Let it browx brightly. Garnish with lemon and sausages, or forcemeat balls. Serve very hot. Time for a small turkey, an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; for a moderate-sized turkey weighing ten pounds, about two hours; twelve to fourteen pounds, about two hours and a half. Probable cost, moderate-sized turkey, 8s. to 14s., excepting at Christmas. Turkey, Roast (another way).—Take a well-kept but perfectly sweet young hen turkey. Pluck, draw, and singe it carefully, TUR wipe the outside with a damp cloth, wash the inside, and dry it well. Fill with onion forcemeat, truss securely for roasting, and put it down to a clear fire. Baste liberally, and when it is done enough dish it, and pour over it some tomato or truffle sauce. Serve very hot. ‘The onion stuffing may be made as fol- lows:—Skin half a dozen large onions, throw them into boiling water, and boil them for a quarter of an hour. Drain and mince them, and put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, three moderate-sized truffles thinly sliced, the crumb of two stale rolls which have been soaked in milk and afterwards squeezed till dry, a table-spoonful of shred parsley, the yolks of three eggs, and a little pepper, salt, and powdered mace. Beat these ingredients thoroughly over a gentle fire until they form a smooth compact mass, and the forcemeat will be ready for use. Time to roast small turkey, an hour and a half; large turkey, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 8s. to 14s., but more expensive at Christmas. Sufficient, a moderate-sized turkey for six or seven persons. Turkey, Rolled.—Cut a young turkey down the middle into two parts, remove the bones without injuring the skin, lay the pieces flat on the table—skin downwards—and spread over each a layer of good veal forcemeat three- quarters of an inch thick. Roll them up like a sausage, cover with thin slices of fat bacon, and tie this on with twine. Lay the rolls in a stewpan, cover with stock, and put with them a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two carrots, two onions in which two cloves have been stuck, a parsnip, half a small blade of mace, and a little pepper and salt. Let them simmer gently until they are done enough, and skim the liquor carefully. When the bird is half- cooked a glassful of wine may be added to the liquor. Rolled turkey may be eaten hot or cold. If it is to be eaten hot, put the rolls on a hot dish, remove the twine, strain and thicken the sauce, pour part of it over the meat, and send the rest to table in a tureen. If it is to be eaten cold, let the rolls lie in the liquor for half an hour after they are taken from the fire, and when the meat is cold brush over with | two coats of glaze. Time to simmer the rolls, onc hour and a half. Turkey, Sauces for.—Brown gravy and bread sauce are the usual accompaniments to roast turkey. Oyster sauce, celery sauce, to- mato sauce, mushroom, chestnut, and truffle | sauce, are all suitable accompaniments. Sau- sages are generally put round the bird, and gar- nish with sliced lemon. Ham, tongue, bacon, or pickled pork is sent to table with both roast and boiled turkey. With boiled turkey, celery sauce, oyster sauce, bread sauce, or white sauce should be served. The nature of the sauce should, of course, be regulated by that of the forcemeat. Turkey Soup, Economical.—Take the bones and trimmings of a turkey, after the meat has been made into patties, or rissoles, minced, pulled, or devilled, break them into small pieces; put them into a stewpan with any forcemeat or |, sauce that may be left, and pour over them two quarts‘of stock. Bring this slowly to the boil, ( 1011 ) .. carrot. TUR skim carefully, and add a little salt and pepper, a few sticks of celery, an onion, and a Let these simmer gently till the bones are quite clean. Strain the soup, and free it . from fat. Add further seasoning if liked, and either thicken the soup with two ounces of ground rice or arrowroot made into a paste with a little stock and boiled up in the soup, or, if a clear soup is preferred, clarify according to the directions given for clarifying soup. Drop . a little vermicelli, or macaroni, or turned vege- tables into it, let them boil a few minutes, and then serve. The clarifying process will not be necessary if the soup has been gently simmered, thoroughly skimmed, and well strained. If no stock from bones, &c.,is at hand, a little may be made by boiling two pounds of the inferior parts of beef in five pints of water for two or | three hours, and in this case the bones of the turkey may be stewed with the beef. Or half a pound only of fresh beef may be used, with a tea-spoonful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat dis- solved in the liquor. ‘Time, four hours. Turkey Soup, Superior.—Take the re- mains of a cold boiled or roast turkey, cut off the meat, mince it finely, pound till smooth, and put it aside till wanted. Break up the body of the bird into small pieces, put these into a stewpan with two quarts of nicely- ‘flavoured white stock, and let them simmer gently for one hour and a half. Strain the gravy, let it cool, skim off the fat, and season with salt and cayenne. Cut a quarter of a pound of stale crumb of bread into thin slices, soak these for a few minutes in as much of the stock as they.will absorb, let them simmer a few minutes, and afterwards squeeze the pulp in a cloth till it is quite dry. Mix this tho- roughly with the flesh of the turkey which was put aside, add the soup gradually and smoothly to the paste, and rub the whole through a fine ‘sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. Let it boil once more, add salt and cayenne as re- quired, and just before serving add a pint of boiling cream or milk. If the soup is not sufficiently thick, it may be made so by adding ‘an ounce of arrowroot or ground rice made into a smooth batter with a little cold milk and boiled in it before the cream is added. The soup ought to be of the consistency of thick cream. If no white stock is at hand, a little may be made as follows :—Divide two pounds of the scrag-end of a neck of veal, or a calf’s foot well cleaned, or a knuckle-bone of veal, into small pieces, put them into a saucepan with five pints of cold water, a slice of lean ham, a carrot, a turnip, three onions, a blade of mace, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, a few outer sticks of celery, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Let all simmer gently for three hours. Strain the soup, let it go cold, remove the fat, add a little salt, and it will be ready for use. If there be any liquor in which mutton, veal, rab- bits, or chickens have been boiled, it may be stewed with the flavouring ingredients, without ‘any meat. Time, four hours to make the stock, three hours to make the soup. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Turkey, Stewed.—A small turkey should be chosen for this dish. Stuff the bird, and TUR (1012 ) TUR truss it for roasting. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan just large enough to hold the bird, and add two large slices of fat bacon cut into dice. Lay the bird in this, put it over a clear fire, and when it is brightly browned on one side, turn it upon the other. Lift it out, drain it, and put it into another stewpan, with a bunch of parsley, a large blade of mace, and a clove of garlic or not, as preferred. Cover the bird with good stock, add a little pepper and salt, and let it simmer gently until it is half- cooked. Put ina glasstul of sherry, and let it remain until done enough. Take it up, and put it on a dish in a hot oven, that it may retain its heat for a few minutes. Strain and skim the gravy, thicken with a little brown thickening, and let it boil a minute ortwo. Pour a little of it round the turkey, and send the rest to table an a tureen. Oyster sauce is an excellent ac- companiment to this dish, and a boned and pounded anchovy and a small shallot may be advantageously added to the forcemeat with which the turkey is stuffed. Time to stew the turkey, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 68. to 12s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turkey Stuffed with Chestnuts.— ‘Take as many sound chestnuts as will com- pletely fill the body of the bird. Make a small gash with a sharp knife in the outer skin to keep them from bursting, throw them into plenty of fast-boiling water, and let them boil until soft. Drain and dry them, and peel off the outer and the inner skin, look them over carefully, and reject any decayed or mouldy nuts. Fill the turkey’s crop with good veal forcemeat, after- wards fill the body of the bird with the boiled chestnuts and the liver, and sew it up securely. Put it down to roast, and baste liberally. Serve on a hot dish, and send brown gravy and either bread sauce or onion sauce to table with it. The brown sauce may be made with the turkey giblets as follows :—Mince the heart and gizzard, and let them simmer gently for an hour or more. Skim the liquor, strain it, thicken with a little brown thickening, and season with pepper and salt. Add a glassful of claret and a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, let it boil 4 minute or two, and it will be ready for serving. Time to roast the turkey, an hour and a half to two hours anda half, according to size. Turkey Stuffed with Chicken. — Bone a young chicken without injuring the skin. Draw the legs and wings inside, fill the body with freshly-made nicely-seasoned sausage- meat, and make it round and compact in form. Put it inside a boned turkey; fill all the empty spaces with sausage-meat, and truss the turkey ‘firmly, restoring it as nearly as possible to its original form. Cover with buttered paper, and put it down before a clear fire, though at some distance from it. Baste liberally, and roast very slowly, or the outside of the turkey will bé done enough before the heat has penetrated to the interior of the chicken. This dish is a great favourite with many of the English residents in Calcutta. It may be served hot or cold with the usual sauces, and in carving the turkey slices should be cut across the breast, so that each guest may have a share of turkey, chicken, and forcemeat. Time, two or three hours, according to the size of the birds. Turkey Stuffed with Mushroom Forcemeat.—Take six or eight small mush- rooms, peel them, put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and let them simmer gently for seven or eight minutes. Drain the liquor from them, and let them cool ; then mince them, and mix them with a quarter of a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Add a slight seasoning of salt, cayenne, grated nut- meg, and grated lemon-rind, but be careful that the mushroom flavour is not overpowered. Work an ounce of fresh butter into the force- meat, bind it together with the yolk of an egg, and add as much of the butter in which the mushrooms were stewed as it will take without being made too moist. Pound the mixture thoroughly, and it will be ready for use. Fill the turkey with it, boil or roast it, and send moushroom sauce to table with it. Double this quantity of forcemeat will be required for a large turkey. Time, one hour to prepare the forcemeat. Turkey Stuffed with Sausage-meat. —Take a well-kept turkey weighing about eight pounds. Bone it according to the directions previously given, and draw out all the bones excepting those of the wings. Take about three pounds of fine sausage-meat, and one pound of veal forcemeat. If liked, sausage- meat only may be used, and in this case some minced herbs should be mixed with the season- ing. The sausage-meat should be rich with fat, and moistened with a little cold stock or water. Fill the empty places where the bones have been and the body of the bird with the sausage-meat. Draw the turkey to its original form, tie both ends of the bird and the ends of the legs securely, truss the bird firmly, and plump it well (see Turkey, Trussed for Roast- ing). Flour it, tie it to the spit, instead of sticking the hook into it, and let it be well. supported by leaving a string tied once or twics round the body, as the stuffing will make the bird heavy. Put it down to a clear fire, but at some distance from it, and baste liberally until done enough. When this point is reached the steam will draw towards the fire. Flour and baste the bird again for a few minutes, take it up, send it to table on a hot dish, gar- nishing with sausage and forcemeat balls. Bread sauce may be served with the turkey, together with a little gravy made of the bones of the bird stewed down with stock, and a little seasoning. The appearance of the dish will be improved if the breast, is evenly larded. A roasted turkey is very good stuffed with sausage-meat without being boned. Time to roast the turkey, nearly two hours. Probable cost, turkey, 6s. to 12s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turkey, To Bone. (sce Fowl, To Bone, without opening). Turkey, Truffled.— There is no dish more highly esteemed than a truffled turkey. The easiest and perhaps in the end the most satisfactory way of gétting one is to procure TUR ( 1018 ) TUR it from France, through a first-class poulterer, ready fattened, stuffed with truffles, and ready for the spit. It will be all the better for the winter’s journey, as birds so stuffed are always kept for several days after to allow the per- fume of the truffles to penetrate the flesh. The cost of a turkey thus prepared will vary from one to five guineas, exclusive of the carriage. When once obtained, a trufiled turkey is easily dressed, as it simply requires to be roasted, plentifully basted, and served with its own gravy only, for though bread sauce and onion sauce are occasionally served with it, properly speaking no rival flavour ought to approach the truffle. Fine fresh truffles are, however, so expensive, that mushrooms or chestnuts are often substituted for them, pounded with bacon in exactly the same way, and a turkey: thus prepared will prove to most people quite as acceptable as if really truffied. When it is preferred, however, that the turkey shouldbe stuffed with truffles at home, procure a young, plump, freshly-killed hen turkey. Take a pound and a half of truffles for a moderate-sized bird, and two pounds for a large one. Smell them, and reject any that are mouldy. Wash them carefully, and scrub with a soft brush till not a particle of earth or grit remains upon them. Cut about a pound of the truffles into balls an inch and a half in diameter. Pound the rest with the trimmings to a smooth paste, adding an equal weight of fat ‘bacon. The bacon should be rasped and pounded separately, then mixed with the pounded truffles, and the forcemeat seasoned with salt and pepper only. When the force- meat is quite smooth mix the whole truffles with it, and put the preparation into the body of the turkey. Let it hang for five or six days after it is stuffed, and when it is to be roasted, lay a slice of fat bacon upon the breast, and a piece of buttered paper over that, and baste liberally whilst it isbeforethefire. If itis wished that truffle sauce should accompany this dish, a few truffles may be put aside for the purpose. ‘Truffle sauce is made as follows :—Mince four truffles finely, put them into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter, and shake them over the fire for ten minutes. Add half a pint of brown sauce, a little pepper and salt, and a glassful of sherry; let these ingredients simmer for a quarter of an hour, skim off the fat, and serve. Time, roast the turkey the usual time. Turkey Truffled Economically.— Take a treshly-killed plump young turkey. If large, half a pound of fine fresh truffles will be required for it, if small, a quarter or a third of a pound will be sufficient. Wash and scrub the truffles carefully as in the preceding recipe, drain and dry them, and cut them into thin slices with- out peeling them. Boil or roast some fine sound chestnuts; the quantity must be regulated by the size of the turkey, There must be sufficient with the truffles to fill the body of the bird. Before boiling them, make a little cut in the outer skin of each nut to keep it from bursting. When all are done, throw them into slightly- salted water, and let them boil quickly until tender: they will take from half an hour to an hour. Skin them. mix the sliced truffles with them; then fill the body of the bird with the mixture, and let the turkey hang for two or three days in a cool airy situation. On the day that it is to be dressed fill the crop of the bird with good ‘veal forcemeat, truss it firmly, tie a buttered paper over the breast, and roast it before a clear fire. Hang it at first some distance from it, and baste liberally. A turkey prepared as above will be sufficiently favoured with truffles to satisfy most people, indeed, alk but those who are excessively fond of truffles. If liked, bread sauce or onion sauce may be sent. to table with this dish, but generally a truffled turkey is served with its own gravy only. Time, an hour and a half to two hours and a half, according to size. _ Turkey Trussed for Boiling.—Pluck, singe, and draw the bird, and be particularly careful not to break the gall-bladder, which ad- heres to the liver, for if any of the gall touches the bird it will impart a bitter taste to it. Cut off the head and neck, and leave sufficient skin. to turn and sew over the back. After the force- meat is put into the breast, cut off the legs at the first joint, draw the upper legs into the body, and make a slit for the stumps to go in. Break and flatten the breast-bone, and also break the back-bone, that the bird may lie flat on the dish. Truss firmly, to make it look as plump and round as possible. Turn the pinions with the points over the back, and'fasten liver (freed from gall) under one pinion, and the gizzard (washed and skinned) under the other. Skewer the apron over the nose, and pass string; firmly round the body, fasten it to the skewers, and tie it in the middle of the hack.. Turkey Trussed. for Roasting.— Pluck. and singe the bird, and in drawing it preserve the liver and gizzard. Be particularly careful not to break the gall-bag, which adheres to the liver, as if any of the gall touches the bird no amount of washing will remove the bitter taste which it will impart. Cut off the feet, and draw out the strings or sinews from the thighs—there are five or six in each leg- Place three or four folds of cloth on the high preast-bone, and break and flatten it with a rolling-pin to make the bird look plump. Cut off the head and neck close to the body, and before doing so push back the skin of the neck. so that sufficient may be left on to turn over the ‘back. Hold the legs in boiling water for a minute or two, and afterwards peel off the rough dirty skin. Fill the breast with forcemeat,, and sew the neck over the back. Press the legs close to the’ breast, and pass a skewer through them and the body. Turn the points of the wings over the back, skewer them through the body, and put the liver under one pinion. and the gizzard under the other. Cut a slit in the apron, and put the nose through. Pass a string over the back of the bird, put it firmly round the skewers, and tie it in the middle. Tie a buttered paper over the breast, and be very careful to truss the bird firmly. The liver of the turkey must be freed from gall and | covered with a buttered paper, or it will be dry and hard. The gizzard must. be carefully cleansed—as it contains stones—skinned and washed, seasoned with pepper and salt, and, TUR like the liver, guarded from the heat by but- tered paper. Turkey, Trussing and Carving of (Dr. Kitchiner’s observations)—The rules for cutting up a pheasant are in all respects ap- plicable to a turkey; whether roasted or boiled, it is trussed and sent to table like a fowl. In trussing it, three skewers should be placed so as to admit the spit between them and the back of it: these keep it firm on the spit, and prevent the great weight of the stuffing, &c., from making it turn irregular while at the fire. One skewer should be passed through the legs ; one in the middle, which confines the wings; and the other under the wings, near the end of the merry-thought. The best parts of a tur- key are the white ones—the breast, wings, and neck-bones. The neck must be taken away, and the hollow part under the breast stuffed with forcemeat, which is to be cut in thin slices in the direction from the rump to the neck, and a slice given with each piece of turkey. The breast is the only part usually cut up; if more ' is wanted, take off one or both wings, a leg, &c. The gizzard and rump are favourites with some epicures. It is called a devil when well peppered, salted, and broiled: many people score it with a knife before it is peppered and salted. If you wish a turkey, especially a very large one, to be tender, never dress it till at least four or five days (in cold weather, eight or ten) after it has been killed. “No man who understands good living will say, on such a day I will eat that turkey—but will hang it up by four of the large tail-feathers, and when, on paying his morning visit to the larder, he finds it lying upon a cloth prepared to receive it when it falls, that day let it be cooked.” Turkey with Celery Sauce.—Truss it nicely, wrap it up in layers of bacon; then boil it in water with a little salt, butter, and lemon- juice. Drain it, and cover over with celery sauce. Turkey with Chipolata Garnish.— Pluck, draw, and singe a plump turkey, stuff and roast in the usual way. Put it on a dish, and garnish with chipolata garnish (see Chipo- lata Garnish). Pour a little brown sauce over it, and send some more to table in a tureen. A good deal of taste is required to garnish this dish. Chipolata garnish is worth nothing un- less it is tastefully arranged. Turkey with Truffles.—Take a nice fat turkey the moment it has been killed; empty it, and put plenty of salt inside the body to draw the blood out. Then let it cool, and prepare some truffles in the following manner: take two or three pounds, peel them, and smell whether they are all of a good flavour, and not musked. Pick out the smallest from amongst them, and chop them very fine. Take some fat white bacon, and rasp it, so as to obtain the fat only, without any of the sinews. ‘When you have rasped a sufficient quantity to fill the body of the turkey, put the chopped truffles into. the mortar, pound them with the tasped bacon, season well with salt, pepper, spices, &c., then mix this with large truffles, and put all in the turkey. Let the turkey ( 1014 ) TUR remain thus for two or three days to acquire the flavour of the truffles; sew the bird up as soon as you have finished it, and when you want it roasted, put it on the spit, covered with bacon on the breast and a few sheets of white paper, and take great care when you open the paper that you do not loosen the truffles. Serve with a clear Spanish sauce. This dish is one of the best possible if it is well seasoned and roasted. It is scarcely necessary to observe that the carver must serve the inside with the fillet, as that is one of the best parts of the dish. Turkey’s Eggs (sce Eggs, Turkey’s). Turkeys, Forcemeat for (see Force- meat for Turkeys; Oysters for Forcemeat for Boiled Fowls or Turkeys; and Forcemeat for Turkeys, Roast). Turkish Pilau.—A pilau, as really served in Turkey and Arabia, consists simply of rice boiled as for curry so that the grains are kept entire, mixed with a little butter, and seasoned with pepper and salt, then laid upon a dish, and the stewed meat placed upon it. For Western use, a pilau is very good prepared as follows :— Roast a rabbit, a chicken, or two or three pounds of mutton ; when the meat is sufficiently cooked cut it into neat pieces convenient for serving, and put these aside until wanted. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with two ounces of lean ham cut into dice, or a little blanched bacon-rind, a sprig of thyme, an onion stuck with two cloves, a small carrot, half a dozen peppercorns, and a pint of stock or water. Simmer the liquor gently, and skim carefully until it is pleasantly flavoured and considerably reduced. Add some salt if required. Wash one pound of Patna rice, throw it into boiling water for five minutes, drain it, dry it in a cloth, put it into a clean saucepan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and stir it about over a gentle fire until it is lightly and equally coloured. Pour over it a pint and u half of stock, and let it simmer very gently until it has entirely absorbed the liquor, and is quite tender and dry without the grains being broken. Throw in a little salt and white pepper and a tea-spoonful of curry-powder, and stir lightly with a fork to separate the grains. Pile it at once high on a dish, and place upon it the slices of meat which, a few minutes previously, have been heated but not boiled in the sauce made from the bones, &c. If a fowl has been used for the pilau, a table-spoonful of stewed sultana raisins may be placed on the top before serving. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to boil the rice. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for five or six persons, Turnip.—This excellent vegetable is ex- tensively used in cookery, either alone and boiled whole, mashed in stews, or to flavour soups and sauces. There are many varieties of the turnip. The best are small, finely-grained, juicy, smooth, and sound When turnips are used for flavouring soups and sauces, it should be remembered that the liquor in which they are boiled will not keep very long, and also that turnips boiled with onions will correct the very strong flavour of the latter. The peel of TUR ( 1015 ) TUR the turnip, if thoroughly washed, will flavour soup and sauce as well as the vegetable itself. Turnips are in season from May till February. They may be had all the year round, but in spring they are only useful for flavouring. Turnip and Potato Soup.—Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and fry in it two large onions sliced till they are brightly browned. Pour over them two quarts of stock made from bones or from the liquor in which meat has been boiled, and add half a dozen sliced turnips, half a dozen mealy potatoes, and three or four crusts of bread, together with a bay- leaf and a few sticks of celery if liked. Sim- mer all gently together till the vegetables are quite soft, rub the soup through a fine sieve, and season with pepper and salt. ‘Let it boil up once more, and serve very hot. Serve toasted sippets on a separate dish. This soup is not likely to keep good more than a day or two. Time, two hours and a half. Probable cost, 8d. per pint, exclusive of the stock. Suf- ficient for ten or twelve persons. Turnip Broth.—This is made with about a dozen turnips peeled and cut into slices. Blanch them for a short time in water, and drain them; put them with a knuckle of veal, a small piece of beef, and the half of a hen into astewpan; and pour some rich boiling broth over the whole. Let the whole stew for about two hours; then strain it through a double silk sieve, and use it with rice, vermicelli, &c. &c. Turnip-greens, To Boil (see Greens, Turnip, Boiled). - Turnip Radishes, To Boil.—Radishes are generally eaten raw with salads, &c. The small white turnip radishes are, however, some- times boiled and served as a vegetable, and the ordinary long radishes, when young, may be ‘tied in bunches, boiled till tender and served like asparagus on toast. They are good with either boiled or roast meat. To boil turnip radishes proceed as follows :—Take the radishes when young and freshly pulled. Wash them well, trim them neatly, leaving about an inch of the stalks, and lay them in cold water for half an hour. Drain them, and throw them into plenty of boiling water slightly salted. Let them boil gently till tender. Drain them, and serve in a tureen with melted butter poured over them. Time to boil, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 1d. or 2d. per bunch. Sufficient, one bunch for one or two persons. Turnip Sap and pare half a dozen turnips, and let them lie in cold water for a quarter of an hour. Drain them, and cut them up small. Put them into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh butter and three ounces of lean ham cut into dice, and stir them about over a gentle fire for two or three minutes. Add two or three onions and one or two sticks of celery, and pour over them a pint of stock made from bones. Let them simmer gently till they are quite soft, dredge two handfuls of flour over them, and beat them briskly with a wooden spoon till they are quite smooth. Moisten gradually with two pints of stock, and .stir the soup over the fire till it boils. Rub it through a fine hair sieve, let it boil up again, add salt, pepper, and powdered mace, and half a pint of boiling cream, and it will be ready for serving. If liked, a bay-leaf and two or three cloves may be stewed with the other ingredients, and the flour may be omitted, and a little ground rice or arrowroot substituted for it. Send toasted sippets to table on a separate dish. Time, two hours and a half, exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. eae cost, 4d. per pint, exclusive of the stock. Turnip-Tops.—Turnip-tops are frequently used as greens. en freshly cut they are very good, and they have a slightly bitter taste which recommends them to many. Trim off the decayed leaves and stems, and wash the greens in several waters. Drain them, and throw them into a saucepan with plenty of boiling water slightly salted. Keep the sauce- pan uncovered, and let them boil quickly till they are quite tender. When done enough, put them into a colander, and squeeze the water gently from them. Turn them into a hot vege- table-dish, pepper them lightly, and spread a little butter on them; cut the surface across both ways with a knife, and serve. If any of these greens are left, they may be served up again after being finely chopped with butter and salt, and heated in a saucepan. Time to boil, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost —generally very cheap—ld. or 2d. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds for three or four persons. : Turnip-Tops (see Cabbage, Turnip-Tops, and Greens). Turnips.—These are seldom served whole, but after being boiled are mashed before being sent to table. When stringy they must be passed through a coarse sieve. In order to mash them, press the water well from them, add enough butter, salt, and pepper, with a little powdered white sugar, which greatly improves their flavour. A little flour mixed with the butter renders the turnips less watery when mashed. Turnips, Boiled.—Turnips should only be served whole when they are very young, and then they should be covered with white sauce. When they have reached any size they should be mashed. Pare the turnips, and wash them; if very young a little of the green top may be left on; if very large they should be divided into halves or even quarters. Throw them into slightly-salted water, and let them boil gently till tender. Drain, and serve them. Time to boil, old turnips, three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half; young turnips, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turnips, Boiled and Served with Sauce.—Boil the turnips as in the last recipe. Put them in a tureen, grate a little nutmeg over them, and cover with good melted butter. If preferred, omit the nutmeg, and stir a spoon- ful of freshly-mixed mustard into the sauce before pouring it over the vegetables. Turnips served in this way may be sliced, cut into dice, TUR ( 1016 ) TUR or turned into any fanciful shapes before being boiled.. Time to boil, twenty minutes to an hour and a half, according to age and size. Probable cost, 6d. per bunch. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turnips, Brown Purée of.—Instead of blanching the turnips, sweat them on a slow fire in a little butter. Take care they do not burn. When they are well done, moisten with three spoonfuls of sauce tournée and one spoon- ful of veal gravy. Give them a good season- ing, rub them through a tamis, and send up with fried toasts of bread. Never omit putting in a small lump of sugar before you serve up, to overcome the bitter taste of the turnips. Such entremets are not much ap- proved of in England, but in winter, and in the country, you very often have no choice for second courses. Turnips, Duck, Braised, with (see Duck, Braised, with Turnips). Turnips, for Garnish.—Very effective- looking flowers for garnishing cold dishes such as roast turkeys, tongues, &c., may be made with turnips. Skill in making these can only be acquired by practice, and in order to attain it the best plan would be to procure a small sound turnip, a sharp penknife, a little liquid cochineal, a paint brush, and a real camellia, or any other suitable flower, as a pattern. Cut and shape the turnip, and endeavour to imitate the real flower as closely as possible. Paint the edges of the leaves a rosy tint with the cochineal, push in a little piece of stick for a stalk, and fasten two or three bay-leaves round the flower. Turnips for Garnish (another way). —When turnips are to be used for garnishing dishes they may be prepared either white or coloured. Pare the thick skin from them, wash and drain them, and either cut them into slices of uniform size, or turn them to any shape that may be desired. Throw them into boiling water, let them boil quickly for five minutes, then drain and dry them. If white turnip garnish is required, put the blanched turnips into a saucepan, cover with boiling stock, add a small lump of sugar and a little salt and cayenne, and let them simmer gently until they are tender without being broken. Let them remain in the stock till they are wanted. If brown turnip garnish is to be used, prepare the turnips, and blanch them as before. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a frying-pan, throw in the turnips, and shake them over a gentle fire till they are lightly browned. Drain them, and if not sufficiently tender, stew them for a few minutes longer before serving. Time, about ten minutes to colour the turnips, twenty minutes to stew en Probable cost, turnips, 5d. to 7d. per anch. Turnips, Fried.—Boil three or four turnips till they are three-parts dressed. Take them up, drain them, cut them into slices, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned and quite tender. Drain them, and serve with fried or boiled cutlets. Or peel them and _ cut them into very thin slices. Let them lie in cold water for an hour, and drain them... Dis- solve a slice of butter in a stewpan, and in this steam a table-spoonful of chopped onion for five minutes. Put in the slices of turnip, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over, and let them steam till they are soft. A spoonful or two of water may be added if there is any fear that they will burn. Turnips, Giblets with (see Giblets with Turnips). Turnips, Glacés.—Select a few fine turnips; turn, in the shape of pears, a sufficient number to cover or to fill the dish; stew them in a little broth with a little sugar, which reduce to glaze, and add to it a little glaze. When equally glazed, dish them; take a spoon- ful of Spanish sauce to detach the glaze that remains in the stewpan, with a small bit of butter twice as big as a walnut, which work with the sauce. Pour the sauce over the turnips after you have given it a good sea- soning. Turnips, Glazed, with Gravy.—Pare four or five large turnips, wash and drain them, and cut them into slices of uniform size, or turn them into a ball or pear shape. Dissolve ina deep saucepan as much fresh butter as will cover the bottom of the pan, throw in the tur- nips, and fry till they are brightly browned. Drain the butter from them, and pour over as much good stock as will cover them. Let them simmer gently until they are nearly tender. Remove the lid, put the saucepan over a quick fire, and let the sauce boil quickly until it begins to thicken. Take the turnips up, being careful not to break them, arrange neatly on a dish, and pour the gravy over them. Time, about twenty minutes to simmer the turnips. Probable cost, turnips, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Sufficient for four or five persons. Turnips, Glazed, with White or Brown Sauce.—Take five or six small, sound, white turnips. Peel and wash them, and turn them to the size and shape of toy- marbles. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a deep pan, and sprinkle an ounce of pounded sugar into it. Put in the turnips, and fry till they are covered with glaze. Pour over them a quarter of a pint of good white or brown sauce, and let them simmer gently until tender. Season with pepper and salt. Arrange the turnips in a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve very hot. ‘Turnips, Large, Stuffed.—Boil whole four or five large turnips. Take them up, drain them, cut a slice from the top, and scoop out the middle. Beat the pulp which has been taken out with a little butter, flour, pepper, salt, and cream, and add the yolk of an egg. Fill the empty spaces with the mixture, put the tops on again, and brush them over with beaten egg. Brown them in a brisk oven, or before the fire, and serve very hot. Time to boil, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for four or five persons. ‘ Turnips, Mashed.—Wash and pare the turnips, and throw them into cold water as TUR (1017 ) TUR they are done. Drain, and throw them into a saucepan with slightly-salted boiling water. Keep them covered, and let them boil till tender. Drain them by placing them in a bowl and pressing a plate upon them to squeeze out the moisture. Mash well, and carefully remove any stringy portions there may be among them. If necessary, pass them through acolander. Mix with them a little pepper and salt, a slice of butter, and a table-spoonful or two of cream or milk. Stir the pulp over the fire until it is hot and quite dry. Serve very hot. Time to boil, three-quarters of an hour toan hour and a half. Probable cost, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Sufficient, one bunch for five or six persons. Turnips, Purée of.—Pare and wash half a dozen large sound turnips, and split them into halves, or even into quarters. Boil them till they are very tender, and press the water thoroughly from them. Pass them through a hair sieve, and put them back into the ‘sauce- pan. Dredge a small quantity of flour over them, and add a little white pepper and salt, w slice of butter, half a tea-spoonful of white sugar, and a quarter of a pint of cream or milk. Stir them over the fire until they are quite dry and stiff. Serve the purée in the centre of a dish, and arrange cutlets, &c., neatly round it. Some cooks add a little grated nutmeg or a little powdered ginger to turnip purée. Time to simmer with the cream, about ten minutes; to boil, from three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half, according to age and size. Probable cost, 6d. per bunch. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turnips, Stewed (a la Francaise).—Peel and wash half a dozen turnips, and boil them in salted water till tender. Take them up, drain them, and in the water in which they have been boiled simmer gently a cupful of bread-crumbs for five or six minutes. Wash the turnips, and put them into another saucepan with the boiled bread and a little butter and pepper. Stir over a gentle fire till they are quite hot, and mix with them the yolk of an egg beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of milk. Let them stew gently a minute or two longer, and serve very hot. Turnips prepared thus are very good as an accompaniment to boiled mutton, veal, or poultry. Time, three-quarters of an hour to an hour and a half to boil the turnips. Probable cost, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turnips Stewed in Gravy.—Pare and wash the turnips, and cut them into small square pieces, or turn them to the shape of balls or pears. Put them into a saucepan, pour over them as much boiling gravy as will cover them, and add « little salt and pepper and a small lump of sugar. Let them simmer gently until they are tender. Put them in a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve very hot. Time to stew, three-quarters of an hour or more, according to age. Probable cost, 6d. per bunch. Turnips, White Purée of.—If you want to make a very white purée, you must mince the turnips, blanch them in boiling water, and drain and sweat them over a very . slow fire in a little butter to prevent then getting brown. When they are done enough, add two or three spoonfuls of béchamel, strain them like a purée through a tamis, reduce, and serve surrounded with fried toasts of bread. If they are for entremets, the purée must be thicker; if for garnishing entrées, richer and more tasty. Turnips with White Sauce.—Prepare the turnips as before, stew them in gravy, and when they are quite tender lift them out with- out breaking them, drain them, and put them inatureen. Have a tea-spoonful of arrowroot : already mixed smoothly with a quarter of « pint of cream or milk. Mix the sauce gradually with this, put it back into the saucepan, and let it boil. Take it from the fire for a few minutes, stir half an ounce of cold butter into it: when this is dissolved pour the sauce over the turnips, and serve very hot. Time to stew the turnips, three-quarters of an hour or more, ac- cording to age and size. Probable cost, tur- nips, 5d. to 7d. per bunch. Sufficient, half a bunch of turnips for four or five persons. Turnips with White Sauce (another way).—Cut them in the shape of pears or balls; boil them in salt and water and butter, and when done enough drain them and serve with « white sauce, to which you may add a little mustard if approved of. Turnips, Young.— Wash and peel a dozen young turnips, and put them into a saucepan with a pint of milk; add a little pepper and salt, and let them simmer gently. When they are half-dressed, put with them half an ounce of butter rolledin flour. Serve very hot. Time to simmer the turnips, about half an hour. Turnips, Young, Stewed in Butter. —Take two pounds of mild young turnips, cut them into small squares, or turn them to any shape that may be preferred. Dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a saucepan sufficiently large to hold the vegetables in a single layer. Put in the turnips, and simmer them very gently until they are tender without being broken. A few minutes before they are done enough, sprinkle a little salt and white pepper over them. Put them in the centre of a dish, and arrange fried or broiled cutlets neatly round them. Time, three-quarters of an hour to an hour to stew the turnips. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turnovers.—Make some good pastry, roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, and stamp it in rounds from four to seven inches in diameter, lay fresh fruit and sugar, or jam, on one half of the pastry, moisten the edges, and turn the other halt right over. Press the edges closely, ornament them in any way, and brush the turnovers with white of egg. Sprinkle a little powdered sugar over them, and bake on tins ina brisk oven. Serve on a dish covered with a neatly-folded napkin. Time to bake, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 1d. each. Sufficient, one pound of pastry will make two dozen turnovers. Turnovers (another way).—See also Fruit Pasties or Turnovers. TUR ( 1018 ) TUR Turtle.—The turtle, or sea tortoise, is found in most of the seas of warm climates. The green turtle is the variety used for making the celebrated turtle soup which forms such a noted feature of municipal feasts, hundreds of quarts being served every year at the Lord Mayor’s dinner. This soup is so expensive, and also so difficult to prepare, that it is seldom made in private houses; if it is wanted, it is bought TURTLE, ready-made, the cost being a guinea a quart. The turtles from which soup is made in England are sent alive from the West Indies. They vary in weight from 30 pounds to 500 pounds, and in price from 1s. to 2s. per pound, according to the state of the market. Many cooks use the tinned turtle instead of the live turtle. A small tin may be had for 8s. or 10s., with which six or eight quarts may be made. The most convenient way of making a small quantity of turtle soup is to use dried turtle, which may be bought of any respectable Italian warehouseman, at a cost of about 10s. per pound. The recipe for making it is given on p. 1020. Turtle Fish.—Take equal quantities of fresh ling, haddock, or codling and of skate, cut the fish into neat slices, wash and clean them, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them, and stew them in good gravy thickened with flour and butter, and seasoned rather highly with salt and cayenne. Add the meat of a lobster and a dozen or more oysters with their liquor. A little wine may be added or not. Serve the preparation in a soup tureen. A couple of cods’ sounds, stewed in spinach-juice till they are coloured green, and afterwards cut into neat squares and put into the gravy, may be added to the prepara- tion, as an imitation of the green fat of the turtle. Time altogether, about three-quarters of an hour. Turtle, Mrs. Glasse’s Recipe for Dressing.—Dressing a turtle in the West- India way is thus described by Mrs. Glasse :— Take the turtle out of the water the night before you intend to dress it, and lay it on its back; in the morning cut its throat, and let it bleed well; then cut off the fins, scald, scale, and trim them with the head; then raise the under shell (the calipee) clean off, leaving to it as much meat as you conveniently can; then take from the back shell all the meat and entrails except the monsieur, ‘which is the fat, and looks green—that must be baked to and with the shell. Wash all clean with salt and water, and cut it into pieces of a moderate size, taking from it the bones, and put them with the fins and head into a soup pot with a gallon of water, some salt, and two blades of mace. ‘When it boils, skim it clean, then put ina bunch of thyme, parsley, savory, and young onions, and your veal part, except about one pound and a half, which must be made force- meat of, as for Scotch collops, adding a little cayenne pepper. When the veal has boiled in the soup about an hour, take it out, cut in pieces, and put it to the other part. The intes- tines (reckoned the best part) must be split open, scraped, and cleaned, and cut in. pieces two inches long. The paunch or maw must be scalded and skinned, and cut as the other parts the size you think proper; then put them with the other parts, except the liver, with half a pound of fresh butter, a few shallots, a bunch of thyme, parsley, and a little savory; season with salt, white pepper, mace, three or four beaten cloves, and a little cayenne pepper; let them stew about half an hour over a clear fire, and put in a pint anda half of madeira wine and as much broth as will cover it, and let it stew till tender. It will take five hours doing. "When almost done, skim it, and thicken it with some flour mixed with veal broth, about the thickness of a fricassee. Let your forcemeat balls be fried about the size of a walnut, and stewed half an hour with the rest. If any eggs, let them be boiled and cleaned as you do knots of pullets’ eggs; and if none, get twelve or fourteen yolks of hard eggs. Then put the stew into the back shell (which is the calipash), with the eggs all over, and put it into the oven to brown, or do it with a sala- mander. The calipee must he slashed in several places, and moderately seasoned with pieces of butter, mixed with chopped thyme, leg young onions, salt, white pepper, eaten mace, and a little cayenne pepper; put a piece on each slash, and then some over, and a dust of flour; then bake it in a tin or iron dripping-pan in a brisk oven. The back shell (or calipash) must be’ seasoned as the calipee, and baked in a dripping-pan, set upright with four brickbats or anything else. An hour and a half will bake it, which must be done before the stew is put in. The fins, when boiled very tender, to be taken out of the soup, and put into a stewpan, with some good veal gravy, not high-coloured, a little madeira wine, seasoned and thickened as the calipash, and served in a dish by itself. The lights, heart, and liver may be done in the same way, only a little higher seasoned; or the lights and heart might be stewed with the calipash, and taken out before you put it in the shell, with some sauce, adding a little more seasoning, and dish byitself. The veal part may be made fricandeaux or Scotch collops of. The liver should never be stewed with the calipash, but always dressed TUR ( 1019 ) TUR by itself, after the manner you like; except _. you separate the lights and heart from the calipash, and then always serve them together in one dish. Take care to strain the soup, and serve it in a tureen or china bowl. The whole ig placed on the table in dishes arranged as follows :— Calipee. Lights, &e. | Soup. | Calipash. N.B.—In the West Indies they sometimes souse the fins and eat them cold, omit the liver, and only send to table the calipee, calipash, and soup. The foregoing description applies to a, turtle of about sixty pounds weight. Turtle Sauce (to serve with calf’s head). —Thicken a pint of beef or veal gravy with a. tea-spoonful of brown thickening, and flavour it with two table-spoonfuls of turtle store sauce and half a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy. Let it boil, and it will be ready for serving. If the store sauce is not at hand, mince a shallot finely, and put it into the thickened gravy with half a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, three or four leaves of fresh basil, the strained juice and thinly-cut rind of half a lemon, a pinch of cayenne, and a glassful of sherry. Simmer the sauce gently for a few minutes till it is pleasantly flavoured, strain through a fine sieve, and it will be ready for serving. ‘Time to simmer the sauce, five or six minutes. Sufficient for eight or nine people. Turtle Soup.—Before making turtle soup it is necessary to have several large pans and plenty of hot water ready for use. Take a turtle weighing about fifty pounds. Cut off the head, hang it up by the hind fins, ‘and let it drain all night. Cut off the fins at the joints, and divide the calipash or upper shell from the calipee or lower shell by pressing heavily upon it and cutting round it about the depth of two inches. Let the water, &c., drain from it, and remove and throw away the intestines, carefully preserving, however, any fat that may be near them. Cut the flesh off along the spine, and let the knife slope towards the bones for fear of, breaking the gall, which must on no account be allowed to touch the flesh, and which should be thrown quite away as soon as it is found. Cut off all the flesh from the members and let them drain. In cutting up the turtle remember to keep the green fat separate from the rest that its colour may be preserved. It is most highly prized by epicures. Throw the heart, lights, liver, and kidney into cold water. Put the ‘calipash and calipee, the head and the feet, into a large vessel of boiling water, and let them simmer gently for a few minutes until the fins can be peeled and the shell scraped. Boil the back and the breast a little longer till the bones can be taken out. Cut out the soft meat, divide it into pieces an inch square, and place these in a single layer between two dishes to cool. Put the heart, liver, lights, and kidneys with the bones into a fresh saucepan, pour over them the stock in which the meat was blanched, and let them stew gently for three hours. Afterwards pour Fins. the liquor off and let it cool. Take a largo clean saucepan. Put into it two pounds of lean ham cut small, twelve pounds of leg of veal broken up, and over these the fins, the head, and the inside flesh of the turtle. Pour over them some good stock, and let them simmer gently until the sauce is very much reduced. Push a skewer into the thick part of the meat, and when blood no longer exudes from the flesh add the liquor which was poured off, and sim- mer all gently together until the meat is tender. Take it out, and set it aside. When the liquor from the bones is put into the stock the follow- ing ingredients may also be added.—Two large handfuls of parsley, a large bunch of mixed sweet herbs—thyme, marjoram, basil, and savory, an onion stuck with four cloves, three bay-leaves, and half a dozen mushrooms if ob- tainable. Simmer the soup till it is pleasantly flavoured, strain it, set it aside, or, if preferred, rub the vegetables through a sieve. Dissolve half a pound of butter in a stewpan. Mix four table-spoonfuls of flour smoothly with it, and beat it quickly with the back of a wooden spoon over the fire until it is brightly browned. Add the liquor gradually, and let the soup boil. Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and carefully remove the fat, oil, and white scum which rise to the surface. Put the pieces of meat, which were put aside to cool, into the soup, let them simmer gently for an hour, and continue to remove the scum as it rises. Take four table-spoonfuls of parsley, four table- spoonfuls of minced shallot, one table-spoonful each of thyme, marjoram, savory, and sweet basil, a whole nutmeg grated, a blade of mace, a dozen allspice, four cloves, a table-spoonful of pepper and salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Put these seasoning ingredients into a delicately- clean saucepan with four ounces of fresh butter, and let them simmer gently until the butter is dissolved, add a small lump of sugar, a pint or two of good madeira, and a little stock, and simmer them gently for an hour. Rub them through a fine sieve, and add the seasoning liquor to the soup. Let it boil again until no more scum rises. Put the quenelles, which are | used as substitutes for turtles’ eggs, into the soup ten minutes before serving, and add the strained juice of one or two lemons just before sending the soup to table. When once turtle soup is made it should not be boiled in order to heat it, as this gives it a strong taste, but it should be warmed ina bain marie. To make the quenelles for the soup, see Turtle Soup, Forcemeat Quenelles for. Time, several hours. Turtle soup should always be made the day before it is wanted. Probable cost, £1 1s. per quart. Sufficient, one quart for six or seven persons. Turtle Soup, Forcemeat Quenelles for.—Take a quarter of a pound of bread- crumbs, soak them in milk for a short time, and afterwards wring them in a cloth to squeeze the moisture from them. Take a quarter of a pound of lean veal from the fillet, scrape it into pieces with a knife, pound it ina marble mortar till it is quite smooth, and rub it through a sieve. Mix it with the bread-crumbs, and add half an ounce of butter, a salt-spoon- TUR ( 1020 ) TUR ful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, « tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, and half a nutmeg grated. Pound these ingredients together till they are thoroughly mixed and quite smooth, then add the yolks of three eggs boiled hard and the yolks of two raw eggs. Dredge a little flour on the table, and roll out the preparation. Make it into balls the size of a small nutmeg, throw these into boiling water slightly salted, and let them boil till they are hard. Drain them on a sieve, and put them into the soup a few minutes before serving. They are supposed to repre- sent the eggs of the turtle. Time to boil, six minutes. Probable cost, 1s. 2d. for this quan- tity. Sufficient, one forcemeat ball for each guest. Turtle Soup from Dried Turtle Flesh.—Three or four days before the soup is wanted, buy a quarter of a pound of dried turtle flesh. Soak it in lukewarm water three days and three nights. Change the water every twelve hours, and if a slightly unpleasant odour arises from the flesh, rub it lightly over with salt. Whilst the soaking process is going on keep the basin containing the turtle in a warm place, and during the night let it stand in a cool oven. For the last twelve hours let the water in which it is soaked be of a good warmth. When the meat has been soaked till it has lost its gluey appearance, and is swollen and comparatively soft, cut it into neat pieces two inches square, and boil it gently for twelve hours in strong stock prepared as follows:—Put a slice of lean, undressed ham into a gallon saucepan with a pound and a half of gravy beef, a pound and a half of knuckle of ‘veal, two onions, each one with three cloves stuck into it, a head of celery, a small turnip and carrot, as much parsley as will fill » teacup, three tea-spoonfuls of dried marjoram, three tea-spoonfuls of dried basil, one or two mush- rooms if they are at hand, half a tea-spoonful of lemon thyme, half a salt-spoonful of penny- royal, a small tea-spoonful of salt, and a small pinch of cayenne. If any chicken bones or pieces of cold roast meat are at hand they may be added to the rest. Fill the saucepan with cold water, simmer the soup very gently for twelve hours, and remove the scum as it rises. The soup must on no account be left in the saucepan all night; but if the simmering is not finished at night, the soup must be poured out into a basin, set in a cool place, and put on the fire again next day. When the soup has been reduced to two quarts, strain carefully, and remove the fat with scrupulous care. Get a pound and a half of fresh eels, cut them into pieces two inches long, and boil these in the stock. When they are tender, lift them out of the stock, and again strain it by passing it through a jelly-bag two or three times; if necessary, clear it with white of egg. When it is clear put in the pieces of turtle flesh, and boil them gently till they arc as tender as well- dressed calf’s head. At the last moment add a claret-glassful of good madeira or good golden sherry. Pour the soup into the tureen, add a few drops of lemon-juice, and it will be ready for serving. If it is necessary to clarify the soup, whisk the white of an egg with a cupful of cold water. Stir this briskly into the soup when it is just warm, let it boil, and gently lift off the scum as it rises. Draw the saucepan to the side, and let the soup simmer gently for half an hour. Let itstand a quarter of an hour to settle, and strain through a jelly-bag. If the soup has been gently simmered and care- fully skimmed, it will most likely need only to be passed two or three times through a jelly-bag. If thick soup is preferred to clear soup, moisten a table-spoonful of brown thickening with asmall portion of the soup. When it is quite smooth, pour it into the saucepan, and stir till it boils. ‘When this thickening is used, it will be ne- cessary to let the saucepan stand by the side of the fire with the lid on for a short time, that the fat may rise to the surface and be removed. The eels which are stewed in the stock may be served as eel souchet, and will make a good dish. As the pieces of eel are taken out of the soup, throw them into a pan of boiling water for one minute. Lay them into a dish with as much boiling water as will cover them, put with them one or two sprigs of fresh parsley, and send brown bread and butter to table with them. Time, four or five days to prepare the soup. Probable cost, turtle flesh, 10s. per pound. Sufficient for three pints of soup. Turtle Soup from Tinned Turtle.— When the turtle is not sent alive to its desti- nation, it is killed as soon as it is caught, put into tins hermetically sealed, and then used for making soup. In this case the stock should be prepared and seasoned as for turtle soup, and the tinned meat, which is in a jelly, should be cut up and stewed in the stock. Turtle soup thus prepared requires to be seasoned rather highly, and a few mushrooms or truffles should be used in the flavouring, in order to take away the taste of the tin. Probable cost, 7s. 6d. Sufficient for five or six quarts of soup. Turtle Soup, Mock.—Put into a large pan or jara knuckle of veal, two well-cleaned cow-heels, two onions, a few cloves, a little all- spice, mace, and some sweet herbs, cover all with two and a half quarts of water, and set it in a hot oven for three hours. Then remove it, and when cold take off the fat very nicely; take away the bones and coarse parts, and when required put the remainder on the fire to warm witha table-spoonful of moist sugar, two of walnut, and one of mushroom ketchup; add to these ingredients the jelly of the meat. When it is quite hot, put in the forcemeat balls, and add a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Turtle Soup, Mock (another way).— Take half a calf’s head, a quarter of a pound of butter, 4 quarter of a pound of lean ham, two table-spoonfuls of minced parsley, a little minced lemon thyme, a little sweet marjoram and basil, two onions, a few chopped mush- rooms, two shallots, two table-spoonfuls of flour, one dozen and a half forcemeat balls about the size of a nutmeg, cayenne and salt to suit your taste, the juice of one lemon, a Seville orange, one dessert-spoonful of pounded sugar, and three quarts of best stock. Turtle Soup, Mock (another way).— Take half a calf’s head with the skin on, TUR ( 1021 ) TUR Remove the brains, and lay them aside; wash the head in several waters, and let it soak in cold spring water for an hour. Put it intoa stewpan, cover with cold water, let it boil gently for an hour, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Cut the meat from the bones, and divide it with the tongue into small neat squares of about an inch. Let these cool, put them into a saucepan, cover with two quarts of stock, and let them boil gently until they are tender without being overdone. Melt four ounces of butter in a saucepan, and put in three ounces of lean, undressed ham cut into dice, a sliced carrot, two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a table-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs, of which two-fifths shall be sweet marjoram, two-fifths basil, and one-fifth thyme, two chopped onions, and one or two chopped mushrooms when they are to be had. Stir these over the fire for two or three minutes, then pour over them a pint of stock, and let them simmer gently for two hours. Moisten two table-spoonfuls of flour with a little cold stock, and add this to the seasoning stock. Let it boil; add the remainder of the stock, and rub the soup through a fine hair sieve. Put it back into the saucepan with the pieces of meat, boil all gently together for a few minutes, add a glassful of wine, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and salt and pepper if required. Have the forcemeat balls ready prepared, put them into the tureen, pour the soup over them, and serve very hot. Time, six or seven hours. Probable cost; calf’s head, uncertain. Sufficient for a dozen persons or more. Turtle Soup, Mock (another way).—See Calf’s Head, Mock Turtle Soup of; and also Mock Turtle Soup. Turtle Soup, Mock, Brain Balls for.— Wash the brains in two or three waters, and free them from skin and fibre. Throw them into boiling water, and let them boil for ten minutes. Take them up, and put them into cold water for a minute or two. Afterwards drain them, and pound them in a mortar with a tea-spoonful of chopped sage, or a little savory, or lemon thyme, and pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Bind the mixture together with the yolk of an egg, make it up into small balls the size of a child’s marble, dip these twice into beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Drain them, and add them to the soup. Time, two or three minutes to fry the balls. Probable cost, 4d. for this quantity, exclusive of the brains. Sufficient, one brain ball to each guest. Turtle Soup, Mock, Clear.—Prepare, soak, and parboil the head as in last recipe but one. Cut the meat into neat squares, and set it aside, simmer the herbs and vegetables in a pint of stock for two hours, and afterwards strain it through a tamis; the flour must of course be omitted. Add it to the rest of the stock, and clarify this by stirring into it when cool the whites of two eggs mixed with a little water, whisking it over the fire till it boils, boiling gently for half an hour, letting it stand to asttle for a quarter of an hour, then straining it through a jelly-bag till it is clear. Put the pieces of calf’s head into the soup, boil them gently till tender, add a glassful of good wine and a little lemon-juice, and serve very hot. A few quenelles should be served with the soup. €, 81x or seven hours. Turtle Soup, Mock, Curry Balls for.—Rub a piece of butter the size of a walnut into a handful of finely-grated bread- crumbs, and add the yolk of an egg boiled hard. Pound the mixture in a mortar to a smooth paste, season with curry powder, and make it up into small balls the size of a nutmeg. Throw these into boiling water till firm, drain and serve them in the soup. Time to boil, two minutes. Probable cost, 3d. for this quantity. Sufficient, at least one ball should be served to each guest. : Turtle Soup, Mock (easy way of making a small quantity}. — Take some stock made from bones or the liquor in which meat has been boiled. Boil it with fresh vegetables, herbs, and spices till it is pleasantly flavoured, and strain carefully. Procure a tin of mock turtle soup. Boil this up with a little more than an equal quantity of the flavoured stock. ‘When it is quite hot throw a claret-glassful of madeira or good sherry into it, and serve very hot with one or two cut lemons on a dish. The mixture of the stock made from fresh vegetables with the preserved soup will correct the slight taste of the tin which is the only objection which can be urged against it, and when a small quantity only of soup is required it will save time, trouble, and expense to make it in this way, rather than to prepare it at home. When there is no stock in the house, the vegetables and seasoning may be boiled in water, but of course the soup will not be so good as if stock were used. Time, one hour to flavour the stock. Probable cost, a tin of mock turtle, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. Turtle Soup, Mock, Egg Balls for.— Boil four eggs till they are hard. Put them into cold water, and when they are’ cold pound the yolks in a mortar with a tea-spoonful of flour, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, half a tea- spoonful of salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Moisten the mixture with the yolk of a raw egg. Form it into balls the size of a small nutmeg, throw these into boiling water, let them boil for two minutes, drain them on a sieve, and serve in the soup. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient, one egg ball should be served to each guest. Turtle Soup, Mock (made with calf’s head).—This soup should be prepared the day before it is wanted. Take half a calf’s head, fresh and with the skin on. Remove the brains, wash the head in several waters, and after- wards let it soak in cold water for an hour. Put it in a stewpan, pour over it a gallon of cold stock made from bones, and let it sim- mer very gently for an hour. As the scum rises remove it carefully. Take up the head, and let it get partly cold; then cut the meat from the bones, and civide it and the tongue into pieces an inch and a quarter square. Be careful that the skin, which is a most valuable TUR ( 1022 ) TUR part, is cut up with the fat. Lay these pieces to get cold between two dishes, the bottom one of which should be laid upside down. Dissolve an ounce of fresh butter ina stewpan. Cut a ‘large onion into slices, and fry these in the butter till they are brightly browned. Pour over them the stock in which the. head was boiled, add the bones and trimmings, and simmer the soup, carefully removing the scum until no more rises. Put in with it some outer sticks of celery, a carrot, a turnip, an onion stuck with four cloves, a handful of parsley, a sprig of marjoram, -basil, and savory, a very small sprig of lemon thyme, one or two sage- leaves, half a quarter of an ounce of allspice, the thin rind of half a lemon, and a little salt and pepper if required. Simmer gently for an hour and a half, and strain the soup through atamis. Dissolve three ounces of butter in a clean saucepan, and mix three ounces of flour smoothly with it. Stir over a brisk fire till it is brightly browned, and moisten by adding, very gradually, a pint of the stoek. Let it simmer gently for half an hour, then add the thickening to the soup. Put the pieces of head into the stewpan, and let them simmer gently until the meat is quite tender, but it must not be overdone. It will need from half an hour to an hour. Add a tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, half a tea-spoonful of essence of an- chovy, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a claret-glassful of good madeira or sherry. Have ready prepared quenelles or forcemeat balls, as for turtle soup, brain balls, or egg balls. Put them into the tureen, pour the soup over, and serve very hot. Time, eight to nine hours. Probable cost, calf’s head varies in price from 2s. 6d. to 6s. or §s., according to the time of year: it is most expensive at Christmas. Sufficient for two quarts of soup. Turtle Soup, Mock (made with cow heel).— Wash, scald, and thoroughly cleanse a cow heel, split it in halves, and put it into a large stewpan with three-pennyworth of fresh bones broken into small pieces, six ounces of lean undressed ham, or a large piece of bacon- rind, three onions, three carrots, a turnip, handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, two bay- deaves, two cloves, six allspice, eight pepper- corns, 2 pinch of cayenne, three sage-leaves, half a dozen outer sticks of celery, and a tea- spoonful of sugar. Pour over these ingredients a gallon of cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently for six hours. Take out the cow heel, remove the bones, and press the meat between two dishes. Let the soup simmer another hour with the ‘bones and tri let it stand until cold, and remove the fat from the top. Cut the meat into neat squares, and drédge a little flour over them. Fry in hot fat till they are lightly and equally browned, then drain them on a sieve. Dissolve four ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and stir into this three table-spoonfuls of flour, a tea- spoonful of curry-powder, and 4 tea-spoonful of dry mustard. Beat this mixture with the back of a wooden spoon, moisten with half a pint of soup, and add a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce. Boil for twenty minutes, strain, and mix it ings; strain it, pour it out, ¢ with the rest of the stock. Put in the pieces of meat, and simmer them gently till they are heated through; add a glassful of sherry or madeira, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, put some quenelles into the tureen; pour the soup over, and serve immediately. Time, eight hours. Probable cost, cow heels, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for a dozen persons or more. Turtle Soup, Mock (made with pig’s head).—Take half a pig’s head, scald it thoroughly, and put it into a saucepan with three quarts of good, nicely-flavoured stock made from bones. Let it simmer gently for an hour and a half; take it up, let it partially cool, cut the meat into neat squares, and lay these between two dishes, the bottom one being placed upside down to keep the meat from curling. Put the bones and trimmings of the head back into the saucepan, and let them simmer an hour longer with a couple of bay- leaves, and a little more seasoning, should the stock require it, and be véry careful to remove the scum as it rises. Pour out the soup, let it remain until the next day, and then take the cake of fat from the top. Thicken with brown thickening, and after it has boiled let it simmer by the side of the fire, and as the fat is thrown up, remove it. "When no more rises, put in the pieces of meat. Let them boil gently till tender, add a glassful of sherry and a pinch of cayenne, and serve very hot. Mock turtle soup made with pig’s head is frequently objected to, because it so frequently tastes greasy. Con- sequently great care should be taken to get rid of the fat. This can only be done by making the soup the day before it is wanted, so that it can be poured out, and when cold the cake of fat can be taken from the top. As even after this a great deal of fat may be held in solution in the soup, the liquor should be boiled again in a covered saucepan, and afterwards simmered gently by the side of the fire, and the fat re- moved as itis thrown up. The stock for this soup may be made as follows :—Procure three- pennyworth of fresh bones. Wash them well, and break them into small pieces. *Put them into a large saucepan, and pour over them four quarts of cold water. Add a large carrot, a turnip, three onions (one of them stuck with three cloves), a handful of parsley, four allspice, half a blade of mace, a sprig of marjoram and basil, a very small sprig of lemon thyme, eight peppercorns, half a dozen outer sticks of celery, and a little salt. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully, draw it to the side, and let it simmer gently for five hours. Strain it, and it will be ready for the pig’s head. Quenelles should be served in the soup. Time, eight or nine hours. Probable cost, pig’s head, 6d. per pound. Sufficient for a dozen people. Turtle Soup, Quenelles for (ses Quenelles for Turtle Soup). Turtle Soup, To Heat.—When turtle soup is bought already prepared from the con- fectioner, which is the plan usually adopted in private houses, it should be heated as follows :— Cover closely the jar containing the soup, put it into a pan of boiling water, and let the soup boil gently until it is quite hot; turn it into TUR ( 1023 ) UDD a tureen, stir into it a claret-glassful of good madeira or sherry, and serve immediately. A spoonful of lemon-juice may be added if liked, and if it is not put into the soup, a dish con- taining one or two lemons cut in halves may be served with the soup, so that the juice may be added at the discretion of the guests. Turtle Store Sauce (for flavouring hashes, stews, and sauces).—Put an ounce and a half of very thinly-peeled lemon-rind, half an ounce of good curry powder, and a quarter of an ounce of cayenne into a large bottle, and pour over them a small tumblerful of basil wine, half the quantity of mushroom ketchup, six table-spoonfuls of shallot wine, and four table- spoonfuls of essence of anchovy. Add two drachms of concrete lemon acid, cover the bottle to keep out the dust, and let the ingredients infuse for eight or ten days. Strain and filter the liquor, then bottle it: it will prove useful for flavouring purposes. Time, ten days. Sufficient, two table-spoonfuls of this essence will flavour a pint of sauce. Twelfth Cake.—A twelfth cake, or any important cake, if made at home, will require care, attention, and good materials. If these are given, and the following recipe attended to, the result can scarcely fail to be satisfactory, and a considerable saving may be effected, compared with what the same cake would have cost if bought at aconfectioner’s. Before beginning to mix the cake all the ingredients should be pre- pared, the flour dried and sifted, the currants washed, dried, and picked, the nutmegs grated, the spices pounded, the candied fruit cut into thin slices, the almonds bruised with orange- flower or rose water, but not to a paste, the sugar sifted, and the eggs thoroughly whisked, yolks and whites separately. Care should be taken to make the cake and to keep the fruit ina warm place, and, unless the weather is very warm, to whisk the eggs in a pan set in another containing hot water. To make the cake, put two pounds of fresh butter into a large bowl, and beat it with the hand to a smooth cream: then add two pounds of powdered sugar, a large nutmeg grated, and a quarter of an ounce each of powdered cinnamon, powdered mace, pow- dered ginger, and powdered allspice. Beat the mixture for ten minutes, add gradually twenty eggs, and beat the cake for twenty minutes. Work in two pounds of flour, four pounds of currants, half a pound of bruised almonds, half a pound each of candied orange, candied lemon, and candied citron, and, last of all, a claret- glassful of brandy, and beat the cake lightly between every addition. Line a baking-hoop with doubled paper well buttered, pour in the mixture, and be careful that it does no more than three-parts fill it, that there may be room for the cake to rise. Cover the top with paper, set the tin on an inverted plate in the oven to keep it from burning at the bottom, and bake in a slow but well-heated oven. When itis nearly cold, cover it as smoothly as possible with sugar- icing three-quarters of an inch thick (see Frost or Icing for Cakes). Ornament with fancy articles of any kind, with a high ornament in the centre: these may frequently be hired of the confectioner. In order to ascertain whether the cake is done enough, plunge a bright knife into the centre of it, and if it comes out bright and clear the cake is done. A cake of this de- | scription will, if properly made, and kept in a cool dry place, keep for twelve months. If cut too soon it will crumble and fall to pieces. Tt will be at its best when it has been kept four months. Time to bake, four hours and a half. Probable cost, 12s. for this quantity. Twelfth Cake (another way). — The following is an old recipe:—Seven pounds of fine flour, two pounds and a half of the freshest butter, seven pounds of currants pre- pared as before directed, two large nutmegs grated, half an ounce of mace and a quarter of an ounce of cloves pounded to fine pow- der, » pound of sifted lump sugar, the yolks of sixteen and the whites ot twelve eggs, and « pint and a half of the very best distiller’s yeast. Warm as much cream as will wet this mass, and add as much sweet malmsey or mountain wine as will give it the consistence of batter. Beat, not too fine, a pound of sweet almonds bleached; rub them with some of the sweet wine and orange-flower water; then add, and beat also, half a pound each of candied lemon, citron, and orange-peel. Let the whole be well mixed, and put the cake into a hoop with a thick paste of flour and water under it in order to preserve the bottom from scorching. Ice it the moment it is drawn from the oven. Twelfth Cake, Lady Caroline Lamb’s.—Quarter of a peck of pure flour care- fully dried, three pounds of currants, a quarter of a pound of raisins, half a pound of refined sugar, quarter of a pound of sweet and half an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and sliced, two ounces of orange and two ounces of candied lemon-peel, and spices according to taste. Mix all thoroughly; then take one pint of cream, and put to it three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter washed first in pure and afterwards in rose-water ; place in a gentle heat. Beat up the white and yolks, separately, of six eggs, and the yolks only of six more. Add to them a little rose-water, two table-spoonfuls of carda- mom brandy, half a glassful of old Rhenish, hock, or champagne, quarter of a pint of fresh yeast, and a little fine salt. Mix the liquids together, strain them, add the dry materials warm, and mix the whole into a light smooth batter. Place it before a fire for twenty minutes to rise, butter your hoop, and use what flour is necessary to make the cake sufficiently stiff. Set it in the oven with some sheets of brown paper well floured to prevent its burn- ing. In about a couple of hours it will be done. Ice it in the usual manner, and stick any ornaments ‘you choose upon the icing before it is dry. U Udder, Beef.—Beef udder may be gently simmered in broth or water, then sliced, and served with onion or tomato sauce. If liked, it may be put in salt for a couple of days before being boiled. Salted udder should be eaten cold, and vinegar and oil should be sent to table with it. UDD ( 1024 ) USQ Udder, Calf’s, for Forcemeat.—Put the udder into a saucepan with as much broth or water as will cover it. Let it boil gently till it is thoroughly done. When cold trim away the upper parts, and pound it in a mortar till it can be passed through a sieve. The pulp will then be ready for putting into French forcemeat. Butter may always be substituted for udder in making forcemeat. Udder, Fresh Neat’s Tongue and.— These may be roasted together. en ready for serving, put half a pint of gravy into a saucepan, with the juice of a Seville orange, a glasstul of claret, two lumps of sugar, and a piece of butter; toss these ingredients over the fire, and serve with the tongue and udder. Garnish with slices of lemon. The udder should be stuck with cloves, and both it and the tongue should be continually basted. Unfermented Bread.—Fermented bread is sometimes considered unwholesome. Those who are of this opinion may make their bread as follows:—Mix one ounce of bicarbonate of soda with eight pounds of flour. Stir one ounce of hydrochloric acid with four pints of warm water. Stir the liquor into the flour briskly, and with a wooden spoon, till the in- gréfients are thoroughly blended; divide the dough into loaves, and bake these immediately in a brisk oven. It will need to bake as long as bread usually does. Unground Corn Poup (a German re- cipe).—Take a breakfast-cupful of wheat, and put it into a stewpan with two ounces of butter. Stir till the butter is melted. Add water, and let all simmer till the corn is quite soft. Season with salt and pepper, adding parsley, chervil, or any other herb, finely minced. Place yolks of eggs in the tureen, grate in a little nutmeg, and pour in the boiling soup. United States Pudding.—Boil three- quarters of a pint of new milk with three ounces of fresh butter and half a tea-cupful of sugar. Stir in six ounces of Oswego, pour the pudding into a bowl, and beat it briskly for some minutes. When it is almost cold, mix with it first the yolks, and afterwards the well- whisked whites of four eggs. Butter a pudding- basin, and fill it with alternate layers of the corn-flour paste thus prepared and jam, and let paste constitute the uppermost and undermost layers. Lay a round of oiled paper on the top of the pudding, and steam it over fast-boiling water till done enough. If preferred, the pudding may be baked in a brisk oven, instead of being steamed. Serve with wine or brandy sauce in a tureen. Time to steam the pudding, one hour ; to bake it, three-quarters of an hour. Universal Store Sauces for Flavour- ing Gravies, &c.—Put two table-spoonfuls of port into a bottle with the same quantity of lemon pickle, chilli vinegar, mushroom and walnut pickle, and one table-spoonful of essence of anchovies. Shake the mixture, and it will be ready for use. If preferred, shallot vinegar may be used instead of lemon pickle. Another excellent store sauce. for flavouring gravies may be made as follows :— Put half a pint of ketchup into a bottle with a table-spoonful of port, a tea-spoonful of shallot vinegar, a quarter of an ounce of powdered allspice, one ounce of salt, and a little pepper and cayenne. Put the bottle in a warm place for some hours ; keep it for a week, then strain and bottle for use. University Pork Sausages.—To a couple of pounds of lean pork, young, white, and delicate, put three quarters of a pound of minced beef suet—the pork must first be chopped very fine. Add three dessert-spoon- fuls of bread which has been dipped in port wine, dried, and grated fine. Work it together with the yolks of three eggs smoothly beaten; season with pepper and salt and dried sage—a very little cayenne may be introduced, and a very small piece of garlic. Work the whole well together in a mortar until it forms a paste; it may then be put into wide skins, or pressed down into jars for future use. It is cut into square pieces, dredged with flour, fried in fresh butter, and sent to table on a toast as a breakfast dish. Upton Pudding. — Butter a pie-dish thickly, and put into it a tea-cupful of large- grained sago. Add two table-spoonfuls of sugar and a little grated lemon or nutmeg. Nearly fill the dish with boiling water (milk is better if it is to be had). Pare and core two large apples, and slice them into the pudding; place a lump of butter upon it, and bake in a gentle oven. This pudding may be eaten cold or hot. Time to bake the pudding, about two hours. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Usquebach, Irish.—This was origi- nally a liqueur—a compound spirit made with spices. Among other recipes for its manufac- ture is the following :—Take of nutmegs, cloves, and cinnamon each two ounces; of the seeds of anise, caraway, and coriander, each four ounces; sliced liquorice, half a pound. Bruise the seeds and spices, and put them, together — with the liquorice, into a still with eleven gallons of proof spirits and two gallons of water. Distil with a pretty fresh fire till the “faints” begin to rise. As soon as the liquor comes over, fix some safiron to the end of the worm, that the liqueur may pass through it and extract its tincture. Soften the whole with sugar. Usquebach, Irish (another way).—Di- gest the following ingredients for a fortnight in five gallons of French brandy—nutmegs, cassia, cinnamon, angelica-root, hay-saffron, rhubarb, of each one ounce; mace, cloves, ' lesser cardamom-seeds, of each two drachms; liquorice-root, three ounces; coriander-seeds, aniseed, turmeric-root, caraway-seeds, of each one ounce. Usquebach (Meg Dod’s recipe).—To two quarts of the best brandy, or whisky without a smoky or any peculiar flavour, put a pound of stoned raisins, half an ounce of nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same quan- tity of cardamoms, all bruised in a mortar; the rind of a Seville orange rubbed off on lumps of sugar, a little tincture of saffron, and half a pound of brown sugar-candy. Shake the UTE jnfusion every day for a fortnight, and filter it for use. Nota drop of water must be put to this cordial, it is sometimes tinged of a pale green with the juice of spinach instead of the saftron tint being imparted to it. Utensils, Kitchen (see Arrrnprx). Uxbridge Plum Pudding (excellent). —Shred a half-pound of suet very finely, mix with it half a pound of flour, half a pound of sugar, half a pound of mashed potatoes, half a pound of grated carrots, three-quarters of a pound of picked and dried currants, two ounces of minced candied peel, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix the ingredients thoroughly. Press them into a buttered basin or mould which they will quite fill, cover the mould with a saucer, and tie it tightly ina cloth. Plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. A quarter of an hour before the pudding is wanted take it up, and before turning it out of the basin put it into the oven. This will remove any moisture it may have acquired in boiling, and cause it to turn out better. Send brandy or wine sauce to table with it. Time to boil the pudding, fully six hours. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Vv Vacherin for Sweet_Creams.—Take half a pound of sweet almonds and half a pound of white sugar. Blanch, peel, and pound the almonds, add the sugar, and moisten the mix- ture toa stiff paste with white of egg. Sprinkle some powdered sugar on a pastry-board, and roll the almond paste upon it a quarter of an inch thick. Take a plain mould about six inches in diameter, line the sides with a band of paste one and a half inches deep, and join the ends securely together with white of egg. Stamp out a round of the paste a little larger than the bottom of the mould. Bake both in a gentle oven. When the paste is dry take it out of the oven, remove the band from the mould, and stick it upon the round. Put the case again in the oven, let it remain till it be- comes slightly coloured, then let it get quite cold. When wanted, fill it with any nicely- flavoured whipped cream, piling the cream as high as possible. Valentia Wine.—Put a quart of ram and a quart of unsweetened gin into a jar. Add three quarts of cold water, three pints of boiling milk, one pound and a half of loaf sugar broken into small pieces, the thin rind and strained juice of nine lemons, six cloves, an inch of stick cinnamon, an inch of whole ginger, one large nutmeg grated, and a pennyworth of saffron tied in muslin. Stir the mixture briskly for a few minutes, cover closely, and let it remain untouched for three hours. Pass it through a jelly-bag till it is quite clear, and bottle for use.- This wine may be used at once. - Vanilla.—Vanilla is a flavourer used to impart an agreeable odour to creams, ices, cus- tards, coffee, &¢. It may be bought by weight, but the essence is the form in which it is 65—n.z. (1026 ) VAN generally used. Vanilla-scented sugar also has recently been introduced into the market. VANILLA, (Vanilla Aromatica.) Showing Flower and Aromatic Seed-Capsules. Vanilla and Currant Bombe.—Take equal quantities of vanilla cream ice and red currant water-ice. Line a bombe mould with currant water-ice an inch thick. Fill the centre with vanilla cream ice, close the mould, and put it in ice till it is firmly set. Turn it out just before it is wanted, and cut it in slices convenient for serving. Dish these on a napkin. - Vanilla Cream.—Soak an ounce of gela- tine in cold water for half an hour. Break a pod of vanilla into small pieces, and soak these in a pint of boiling milk till the latter is pleasantly and rather strongly flavoured. Add six ounces of powdered sugar and the well- beaten yolks of four or six eggs. Put this custard into a jug, set it in a saucepan of water, and stir it ‘until it ‘begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Drain and add the gelatine, stirring the custard off the fire; the heat of the custard will dissolve it. Pour the cream into an oiled mould, and set it in a cool place till stiff. If liked, this cream may be enriched by the addition of a pint of whipped cream, which should be stirred lightly in when the custard and gelatine are ‘cool. When this addition is made, two additional eggs and another half-ounce of gelatine will be required. The essence, instead of the pod of vanilla, may be used to flavour the cream. Time, about ten minutes to thicken the custard. Probable cost, if made without cream, 1s. 10d. Sufficient for nearly a quart of cream. Vanilla Cream (see Cream, Vanilla). Vanilla, Cream Whipped with (cee Cream Whipped with Vanilla). Vanilla Custard.—Cut half a pod of vanilla in pieces, and let it soak for an hour in a pint of milk or cream. Stir four table-spoon- fuls of sugar into it, and when this is dissolved add the well-beaten yolks of two, four, or six eggs. Put the custard in a bowl, and. set this over « saucepan of boiling.water. Keep VAN ( 1026 ) VEA stirring one way till.it. begins to thicken, (but it must not boil.. Stir occasionally till it is cold, and serve in a glass dish or in custard cups. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a firm froth, and pile this on the custard at the moment of serving. Sift a little white sugar upon the custard, and it will be ready for the table. If liked, essence of vanilla may be used instead of the pod. Probable cost, if made with milk, 1s. to 1s. 6d. Sufficient for a little more than a pint of custard. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to make the custard. Vanilla Custard Pudding.—Flavour a pint of milk by soaking a quarter of a pod of vanilla init for some time. Boil the milk, and pour it whilst boiling on four eggs which have been lightly beaten in a basin. Strain the custard, let it cool, and add sugar to taste; three good-sized lumps will be enough. Pour the pudding into a buttered mould. Lay an oiled paper on the top, put it in a stewpan with water to reach half-way up the mould, and steam gently until done enough. Let it stand a few minutes after it is taken up before turn- ing it out. Putit ona dish, garnish with pre- served fruit, and pour dissolved fruit jelly round it. If liked, the pudding may be baked ‘instead of being steamed, and essence of vanilla may be used instead of the pod. Time to set ‘the pudding, half an hour. Probable cost, 1s., without the sauce. Sufficient for five or six persons. . Vanilla Custard Sauce for Sweet Puddings.—Beat an egg, and stir half a pint of milk into it. Add sugar to taste and six or seven drops of vanilla flavouring. The quantity should be regulated by the strength of the pre- paration. Put the mixture into a saucepan over a gentle fire, and stir one way tillit begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Serve in a turéen with any kind of dry, boiled pudding. Time, about eight minutes to thicken the custard. Sufficient for five or six persons. Probable cost, 4d. Vanilla Ice Cream.—Pound half a stick of vanilla, and mix with it half a pound of sugar. Rub it through a hair sieve, and add half.a pint of milk and the yolks of two eggs. Simmer the mixture over a slow fire for ten minutes, stirring briskly all the time. When cool; add a pint of cream and a small pinch of salt. Freeze and mould in the usual way. Time, ten minutes to simmer the custard. Pro- bable cost, 28. 4d. Sufficient for a quart of ice cream. Vanilla. Lozenges.—Mix four ounces of powdered vanilla with an ounce and a quarter of powdered white sugar. Add as much gum tragacanth as will make a stiff paste. Form the mixture into lozenges, Or put half a pound of coarse sugar into a small sugar-boiler with an ounce of water and a few drops of essence of vanilla. Stir the mixture with a wooden spoon over a gentle fire till it has become liquid and is on the point of simmering. Take it off the fire, stir it a few minutes longer, and drop it upon slightly-oiled baking-sheets. Let the drops get cold, then remove them with the point of a sharp knife. Vanilla Sauce for Sweet Puddings, —Boil a quarter of an inch of vanilla and a table-spoonful.of sugar in a quarter of a pint of water for ten minutes. Mix a dessert- spoonful of arrowroot to a smooth paste with a spoonful of cold water. Strain the boiling syrup upon it, and stir the sauce till it is smooth. Add half a wine-glassful of brandy, and serve. Probable cost, 4d. Sufficient for five-or six persons. Time, ten minutes to boil the sauce. Vanilla Soufflé.—Take three ouncés of dried flour. Mix it to a smooth paste with two or three table-spoonfuls of cold milk, and add additional milk to make up the quantity to three-quarters of a pint. Stir in two table- spoonfuls of sugar, a small pinch. of salt, and a few drops of vanilla essence. The quantity must be regulated by the strength of the essence. Stir the milk briskly over the fire till it leaves the sides of the pan. Strain it intoa bowl, and when it is cool add the well-beaten yolks of four eggs. Beat the whites of six eggs to a firm froth, mix them lightly with the batter, and half fill a buttered dish with the mixture. Put it into a’ moderately-heated oven, and turn it about occasionally, that it may be equally baked. When done enough, sift powdered sugar upon it, and serve at once, or it will be spoiled. Time to bake, about half an hour. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Vanilla Sponge Cake.—Cut half a stick of vanilla into small pieces, tie it in muslin, and put it into a saucepan with one gill of water and twelve. ounces of refined sugar. Let it simmer to a clear syrup, then take out the bag of flavouring, and stir the syrup into six eggs lightly beaten, Put the basin into a saucepan of boiling water over the fire. Draw the pan back and beat the batter briskly and continuously till thick and light. Stir in off the fire half a pound of flour, turn the batter into prepared moulds, and bake in a quick oven, Time to bake, half an hour or more, _ Vauxhall Nectar.—This old-fashioned liqueur may be successfully imitated by dis- solving one.scruple of flowers of Benjamin (otherwise known as flowers of benzoin, and benzoic acid) in a pint.of good rum. .The liqueur may be used immediately, Veal.—Veal is best when the animal is from two to three months old. The flesh of the bull calf is the most suitable for joints, being of a firmer grain. That of thé cow calf is the best for made-dishes. The fillet of the cow calf is generally preferred, because it has the udder. The finest calves have the smallest kidneys, and. when the veal is good: these are well covered with fat. Veal, like all young meat, has a tendency to turn very quickly. ‘It is both un- palatable and most unwholesome when it is at all tainted, and it cannot be recovered, as brown meats sometimes are, by the use of charcoal. Therefore it ought not to be kept more than two days in summer and four’ in winter. If ° eaten quite fresh it is apt to be a little tough. To assist it in keeping, the pipe should be re- moved from the loin as soon as the veal comes VEA ( 1027 ) VEA from the butcher. .The skirt. also-should be taken at.once from the breast, the inside scraped and. wiped, and dredged with flour. If there is any danger of the veal becoming tainted, wash it, and put it into boiling water.for ten minutes. Plunge it into cold water till: cool, wipe it dry, and put it into the coolest place that can be found. Although veal can be ob- tained all the year round, it is best from May to September. No meat is more generally. use- ful for making soups and gravies, than veal. The flesh is rather indigestible. The head, aad CALF, JOINTING' OF, kidneys, and sweetbreads, are considered great delicacies, The feet contain a good deal of nourishment. Veal is cut up as follows:— 1. The Loin. 2. The Chump, which consists of the rump and the hock bone, 3. Fillet. 4. Hind-kmuckle. 5. Fore-knuckle. 6. Neck. 7. The Breast. 8. The Shoulder. To these joints must be added the head, which is highly esteemed, and the pluck, which includes the liver, lights, heart, sweetbreads, of which one is called the throat sweetbread, and is ‘the largest of’ the two; the other the wind-pipe sweetbread. The pluck also includes the nut, meit, skirt, and throat. The udder or firm white fat of the fillet is used by French cooks for forcemeats. Veal should ‘be thoroughly done. When under-dressed it is unwholesome, and should be avoided. _ Veal (a la Bourgeoise).—Take about three pounds of the fillet, loin, or neck of veal. Cut ‘ If into neat pieces, and fry these in a little . butter till they are brightly browned on both sides. Add: two slices of lean bacon, three carrots, three onions (each with a clove stuck in it), a large bunch of herbs, a blade of mace, and pepper and salt to taste. Pour over all a8 much boiling stock or water as will barely cover the ingredients, and simmer all together very gently until the meat is done enough. Take it.out, skim the sauce, strain it, and boil quickly: to reduce it; then add a spoonful of tomato sauce and ketchup to impart flavour. Put the meat ona dish, trim the carrots to a neat shape and place them round it, pour a part of the gravy over the veal, and serve the rest in atureen. A pint of fresh green peas and two pounds or more of new potatoes should be cooked separately, and served with the veal. If liked, the veal, instead of being. cut up into pieces, may be evenly Jarded in the grain of the meat with strips of fat bacon, and dressed whole. If a calf’s foot is boiled with the veal it will much improve. the gravy. Time to simmer the veal, two hours if it is cut up, three hours if in one piece. Probable cost, 48. to 5s. Sufficient for’ five or six persons. i ae Veal, Cold (a la Poppers). pean the veal the day before it is wanted, according to the directions in the preceding recipe. Turn it out into a bowl, pour the gtavy over, and let it get cold. When wanted, turn the whole upon a dish, and serve with the gravy set to jelly round it. Veal (a la Chartreuse).—Line a plain round or oval mould with thin slices of fat bacon. Spread a layer of veal forcemeat upon this, and fill the mould with a rich fricassee of veal. Lay dressed turnips and carrots, cut into appropriate shapes, round the edge of the mould, cover with pastry, and steam it over boiling water. Turn it out upon a dish, and serve very hot. Time to steam the chartreuse, about an hour. Veal and Fowl, Blanching of.—Veal of every part is to be made firm by means of boiling-hot water, and we also lay the flesh of any kind of fowl required to be rendered firm in hot water, allowing it to remain undisturbed at a short distance from the fire, plunging it afterwards into cold water. Especially veal intended for cooking, or previously cut up into proper pieces for a fricassee, is kept for a ' quarter of an hour in boiling water ata distance from the fire, and then removed and washed in cold water. A leg or breast of veal must be set on the fire with cold water to draw it a little; it must not, however, boil, as that would ex- tract too much of its goodness. Remove it from the fire, cover it over, and let it stand a quarter of an hour; after which it will be found to have become perfectly drawn and whitened. Take it out, lay it in cold water, wash it, and dry it with a clean cloth. , Veal and Ham Patties.—Line patty- pans with puff paste in the usual way, bake them, and fill them with a mixture prepared as follows :—Mince finely six ounces of dressed lean veal and three ounces of dressed ham. Put a quarter of a pint of cream and a quarter of a pint of white stock into a saucepan; thicken this sauce with white roux or with a small piece of butter rolled in flour, and simmer till it is smooth and coats the spoon. Add a little pepper, salt, and cayenne, and a flavouring of grated nutmeg and lemon-rind, together with a little lemon-juice. Put in the minced meat, and simmer gently, stirring all the time, till it is quite hot—but it must not boil, or it will be hard. Time, ten or fifteen minutes to heat the mince. sugar browning to colour it, and if liked a little VEA ( 1028 ) VEA Veal and Ham Pie.—Take from a pound and a half to two pounds of veal cutlets or of nice lean veal from any part. Cut these into neat square pieces about the size of a walnut. Put a layer at the bottom of a pie-dish, and sprinkle upon the meat a little pepper and salt, a pinch of grated lemon-rind, another of pow- dered mace, and another of minced savoury herbs. Lay upon these flavouring ingredients two or three slices of ham or streaky bacon, and repeat the alternate layers until the dish is full. Let ham constitute the uppermost layer. The yolks of three eggs boiled hard and cut into slices may be interspersed with the meat. Pour half a pint of stock upon the meat. Line the edges of the dish with good pastry, cover with the same, ornament the sur- face, brush it over with yolk of egg, and bake in a well-heated oven. When done enough, pour a little boiling gravy into the pie, and serve. This pie may be enriched by the addition of a little forcemeat, or a few oysters or mushrooms, or a sweetbread, but it will be found excellent without them. If liked, a gravy prepared as follows may be poured upon the meat instead of stock:—Take a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, a minced shallot, and a tea-spoon- ful of parsley. Fry these in a little butter over a gentle fire. Add half a pint of stock or water, a small piece of brown thickening, a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of ketchup. Stir the sauce till it boils, adda few drops of lemon-juice, strain it, and it will be ready for use. ‘ime to bake the pie, an hour and a half or more according to size. Sufficient for five or _ persons. Probable cost, 3s. 6d., plainly made. Veal and Ham, To Press (see Ham and Veal, To Press), Veal and Macaroni Pudding.—Take as much veal (free from bone) as will about three-parts fill the pudding-basin it is intended to use. When fortune is favourable, half a pound of bacon, the veal kidney or part of it, the sweetbread, or a few oysters or mushrooms, may be added to the veal. Cut the meat into small neat pieces, and season with pepper and salt. Break into one-inch lengths as much macaroni as will fill the vacant space in the pudding-basin, and soak these in lukewarm water for half an hour. Line the pudding- basin with good suet pastry. Fill it with layers of meat and macaroni, and sprinkle grated lemon and powdered mace between the layers. Add half a tea-cupful of stock or water for gravy and a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice. Lay a pastry cover on the top of the pud- ding, tie the pudding in a floured cloth, plunge it ito boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Take it up, untie the cloth, and run a sharp skewer into the pudding, in order to ascertain whether or not the meat is tender. If not, it will re- quire longer boiling. If it is done enough, turn it out carefully upon a hot dish, and serve immediately. Time to boil a pudding made with a pound and a half of veal, about two hours. Probable cost, varying with the nature of the contents. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Veal and Rice Soup.—Take about four pounds of the knuckle of veal. Break up the bones, and put them with the meat into a small stock-pot with a gallon of stock made from bones, or water and any trimmings of meat or poultry that may be at hand. The knuckle- bone of a ham or a little scalded and scraped bacon-rind will be a great improvement. Let the liquor boil, skim well, and throw into it two carrots, 4 turnip, two onions, each stuck with one clove, a few sticks of celery or a little celery-seed, and pepper and salt. Simmer the stock very gently indeed for three hours. Take out the meat, and put it aside till wanted. Strain the liquor, and pour it into a smaller saucepan with half a pound of half-boiled rice. Let it simmer until the rice is quite tender. Cut the veal into pieces convenient for serving, let them become hot in the liquor. Pour the soup, with the rice and veal, into a tureen, and serve very hot. Time, four hours. Probable cost, knuckle of veal, 5d. to 7d. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Veal, Bachelor’s Stew of.—In order to dress veal successfully in this way there should be at hand a small saucepan with a very closely-fitting lid. Take u slice of veal from the fillet, about two inches thick, and weighing from two to three pounds. Dis- solve a slice of fresh butter in the sauce- pan and brown the cutlet in this on both sides. Dredge it with pepper, and place upon it a little piece of lean ham, together with two or three sliced carrots, some sticks of celery, a few onions or peas, or any other suitable flavouring ingredients, together with salt and cayenne, a spoonful of ketchup, and a tea- cupful of boiling stock or water. Cover the saucepan very closely, and let its contents simmer as gently as possible till done enough. Place the veal on a hot dish, garnish with the vegetables, thicken the gravy, ‘pour it over the meat, and serve very hot. Time to simmer, an hour and three-quarters. Probable cost, with two pounds of veal, 3s. Sufficient for two or three persons. * Veal, Blanquette of, Made from Cold Dressed Meat.—Take from two to three pounds of cold dressed veal. Cut it into neat slices, and trim away the brown outside. Put these slices into a dish, cover them over, and keep them in a cool place till wanted. Mince the brown part, and put it into a sauce- pan with a good-sized onion chopped small, a stick of celery, a bunch of parsley, a little pepper and salt, and a pint of stock made from bones. Let all simmer gently together for half an hour. Strain the gravy, and put it again into the saucepan with a pinch of pounded mace, the strained juice of half a lemon, and the slices of veal. Let it simmer a minute or two. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a bowl. Mixa small quantity of the warm gravy with them, and add them gradually to therest. Stir the sauce till it is smooth and thick, but it must not boil or it will curdle. This dish is excellent with green peas as an accompaniment. ‘Time, altogether, about an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d. Sufficient for five or six persons. VEA ( 1029 ) VEA Veal, Blanquette of, Made from Fresh Meat.— Take from two to three pounds of the breast of veal. Cut it into pieces the size of a walnut, put these into a small saucepan, and pour upon them as much boiling stock or water as will cover them. Let the liquor boil up, and skim it. Throw into it two onions each stuck with a clove, two carrots, and a large bunch of sweet herbs. Add a little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the meat gently for an hour. Drain it, and put it aside for a short time. Strain the gravy, thicken with white thicken- ing, and let it boil, stirring occasionally till it coats the spoon. Let it cool a minute, then beat the yolks of two eggs in a bowl, mix with them a spoonful of the gravy, and add the rest gradually. Put the pieces of veal into a small saucepan, strain the gravy upon them, and let them remain in it gently simmering until they are heated through, but the sauce must not boil or it will curdle. Add a table-spoonful of scalded and chopped parsley. Mix and serve. Time to simmer the veal, about an hour. Probable cost, breast of veal, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Veal, Blanquette of, with Cucum- bers.—Cut some cold veal into neat pieces about the size of a walnut and a quarter of an inch thick. Pare and quarter a large cucum- ber, and cut it into lengths of half an inch. Sprinkle a little salt upon these, and cover them with vinegar. Let them remain for half an hour. Drain them well, and dry them with a soft cloth. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a bright stewpan, and add a pinch of grated nutmeg and a small piece of sugar. Put in the slices of cucumber, and let them simmer gently till tender. Drain off the butter, pour some white sauce upon the cucumber, add the pieces of veal, and let all simmer gently together till the meat is quite hot. Place the veal on a dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish the dish with sippets. The white sauce should be made with nicely-seasoned veal stock made from the veal bones, and thickened with white thickening. It will be improved by stewing onions and mushrooms in it to flavour it, but it will be very good without them. A little lemon-juice may be stirred in at the last moment. Time to stew the cucumber in the butter, about half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, about 1s. 6d. Veal, Blanquette of, with Mush- rooms. —Cut some cold dressed veal into pieces about an inch square and a quarter of an inch thick. Take a quarter of the bulk of the meat in button mushrooms, clean these with a piece of flannel and a little salt, and simmer them very gently with a slice of fresh butter till they are done enough. Put the pieces of veal in a saucepan, lay the stewed tmushroooms upon them, and pour over all a little nicely-seasoned veal stock thickened with a little piece of white thickening. Heat the preparation gently till it is on the point of boiling. Beat one or two eggs in a bowl, stir a spoonful of sauce into them, and add them gradually to the rest. Shake the sauce over the fire for a minute, but do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Add a table-spoonful of lemon- juice, and serve. If liked, the blanquette may be piled in the centre of a dish with a border of pastry round it. ‘Time to simmer the mush- rooms, ten to fifteen minutes, Veal, Blanquette of, with Mush- rooms (another way).—Take from one to two pounds of cold dressed veal, and mince it finely. Chop an onion, and fry it in butter till it begins to turn yellow. Stir in with it a tea- spoonful of chopped parsley, and beat it with a spoonful of flour to a smooth paste. Moisten this with stock to make it of the consistency of cream, and add a table-spoonful of chopped mushrooms and a little pepper and salt. Simmer the sauce for about ten minutes, add the minced veal, and simmer it again until the meat is heated throughout, but it must not boil, or it will harden. If liked, the well-beaten yolks of two eggs and the strained juice of half a lemon may be added to the sauce. Time, altogether, about an hour. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal, Boiled.—Generally speaking, veal plainly boiled is regarded as too insipid to be much relished. Still, for an occasional change, the joints which would otherwise be roasted” may be boiled. Bacon, or sausage, or boiled tongue should be served with boiled veal, and parsley and butter, onion, oyster, celery, or any piquant sauce should accompany it. Par- ticular attention is necessary in boiling veal, as it is so easily discoloured, and then has a very bad appearance. It should be put into a delicately-clean saucepan, with boiling milk and water to cover it, boiled for two or three minutes, then drawn back, and simmered gently until done enough. As the scum rises it should be removed with scrupulous care. Veal from which gravy has been made may, if not too much. boiled, be served in this way. Veal, Braised.—Take about three pounds of veal—the middle of the loin or the best end of the neck will be the most suitable for the purpose. Cut the bones short, and chop off the chine bone close to the meat. Take a small bright saucepan, and rub the bottom quickly three or four times across with a clove of garlic. Lay two or three thin slices of lean bacon or ham in the bottom of the saucepan, and place the veal upon these. Add a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, a tea-spoonful of chopped mushrooms, a lump of sugar, a small blade of mace, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a little pepper, and salt if the bacon is not already sufficiently salted. Place thin slices of fat bacon upon the veal, and pour upon it half a pint of cold stock or of water. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer it as gently as possible till done enough. Take up the veal, put it on a hot dish, and place it in the oven for a short time to keep hot. Skim the gravy, and rub it with the ham, vegetables, &c., through a fine hair sieve. Let it boil up, stir a wine-glassful of madeira into it, pour it upon the veal, and serve very hot. If a superlative dish is re- quired, before dressing the veal off, cut the skin of the veal, but not too closely. Spread VEA ( 1030 ) VEA two ounces of butter on the meat, and lay on the butter three fresh truffles which have been cleaned and cut into thin slices. Place the skin in its original position, and sew it. on with coarse twine. Proceed as before. Probable cost, veal, 1ld. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Veal, Braised, with Truffles.—Take about four pounds: of veal from.the middle of the loin. Saw off the chine-bone, cut. the bones: short, and take off the skin an eighth of an inch thick. ‘Spread on this two-ounces of butter and three fresh: truties which have been cleaned and thinly sliced. Restore the: skin to its original position, and: sew it on securely with twine. Butter a stewpan, and. cover the bottom with a thin slice of ham. Put the veal on this, and place round it the bones: and trimmings, a sliced carrot, an onion stick with two cloves, a mushroom chopped small, a lump of sugar, a small blade of mace, a pinch. of | nutmeg, a grain of coriander-seed and | grate a piece of garlic the size of a split pea. These two last ingredients may be omitted. Pour over all half a pint of stock or water, cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer very gently till done enough. Skim the liquor, and baste the meat with it frequently.. Take up the veal, and put it in the oven'to ket p hot: Skim the fat from the gravy, and rub if with the vegetables, &c., through a fine sieve. Let it boil, and if liked add a glassful of sherry or madeira.. Put the veal on a dish, pour the gravy. over, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the veal, two hours and a half. Probable cost, veal, 1s. per pound. Veal, Breast. of.—A breast of veal. consists of two portions, the best end and the ‘brisket end. The brisket. is. generally. 1d. or 2d. per pound cheaper than the best..end. Breast of veal may be bought whole or in parts. A whole one weighs from nine to twelye pounds. Veal, Breast. of (a la Chipolata).—Bone, roll, braise, and dish the veal according to, the directions given in Veal, Breast of, Rolled and Braised. Place round it a chipolata ragotit (gee ‘Chipolata Garnish), omitting any of the: ingre- dients that are difficult to procure. A little bacon should be served with the veal, either in the garnish or on a separate dish. Veal, Breast of (4 la Marengo).—This is an imitation of the famous fricasseed Chicken, ala Marengo. Cut up a portion of the breast of veal into neat pieces convenient for serving. Fry these in butter or fat till they are lightly browned, and put into the pan with them a little grated ham, a large onion thinly sliced, and a little pepper and salt. Pour upon them as much stock or water as will barely cover them. Simmer all gently together till the veal is done enough, then add half a dozen or more stewed mushrooms. Thicken the sauce with a small piece of brown thickening, and throw into it at the mément.of serving a little finely- chopped parsley. Put the veal into a dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with toasted sippets. Time to simmer the veal, about two hours. Probable cost, breast of veal, 9d. to 10d. per pound. ‘Veal, Breast of, Boiled.—It the: sweet- bread is to be boiled with the veal, let it soak in water for a couple of hours, then skewer it to the veal. Put this into a saucepan, with boiling water to cover it, let it boil once:more, and carefully remove the scum as it rises. Add a handful of parsley, a tea-spoonful of pepper-~ corns, a blade of mace, and a little salt. Draw it back, and then simmer gently until done enough. Serve on a hot dish, and pour a little good onion sauce or parsley sauco over it. Send boiled bacon to table on a separate dish. The sweetbread may, of course, be dressed separately. Time to simmer the veal, about one hour and a half. Veal, Breast of, Broiled.—Three parts roast a portion of the breast of veal. Take it up, score it across in even lines, and fill these with salt and cayenne and afew powdered herbs. Broil the veal over a clear fire, and turn it over from one side to the other till it is done enough. Serve on a hot dish, with piquant sauce poured over it. Veal, Breast of, Collared.—Bone the veal, remove the gristle. and. tendons,, and to flatten it beat it gently with a rolling-pin. Spread upon it a. little pepper, salt, and pounded, mace, together with some parsley, thyme and. marjoram, and. two or three shallots, all finely chopped.. Lay upon the herbs some thick slices of fine ham, together with two calves’ tongues, boiled, skinned, and_ sliced. Roll the veal tightly, and bind it with tape. Put it into.a saucepan with as much. stock or water as will cover it, and let it simmer gently till it is quite tender throughout. Take it up, and put it in press till cold. If liked, the flesh of two boiled pigs’ or calves’ feet may be put upon the ham, and to improve the appearance of the veal some hard-boiled yolks of eggs and a little sliced beetroot may be interspersed with the seasoning. Time to simmer the veal, about four hours... Sufficient for a good-sized dish. Probable-cost, 14s. to 16s. Veal, Breast of, Collared (another way).—Bone a breast of veal. Lay it on the table, and spread on it a thick layer of nicely seasoned oyster forcemeat (see Oysters, Force- meat of). Roll the veal as tightly as possible, and bind it with tape. Put it into boiling water, let it boil up once, skim the. liquor carefully, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let its contents simmer as gently as possible till the veal is tender. Put the bones into a separate saucepan with a moderate-sized onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt. Let them simmer till the liquor is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, thicken with white thickening or with « little flour and butter, and stir into it two or three table-spoonfuls of thick cream. If milk has to be used instead of cream the yolk of an egg may be beaten up with it. Serve the meat on a hot dish with the sauce poured over. This dish may be garnished with forcemeat-balls, and with the sweetbread cut into slices, egged and bread-crumbed, and fried ; or a little parsley and sliced lemon may be used instead. The meat is sometimes baked | instead of boiled, and then a little weak stock VEA ( 1031 ) VEA should be put into the pan with it, and it should be basted frequently. I# it is preserved in pickle it will keep good for some time. Time to:simmer the veal, three to four hours. : Probable cost, veal, 9d. to 10d. per pound. Veal, Breast.of, Ragofit of.—Take off the under bone, and put the veal into a stewpan with as much boiling stock as will cover it. Let.the liquor boil up, then add a large carrot sliced, three-onions,. a blade of mace, a’ bunch of sweet herbs, the thin rind of a lemon,’ and a little pepper and salt. Skim the gravy, and simmer it gently until the veal is quite tender. Thicken the gravy till it is of the consistency of sauce, and stir into it the strained juice of a small lemon and a glassful of sherry or madeira. Put the veal into a dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with savoury forcemeat-balls and cut lemon. Time tosimmer the veal, about two hours. Probable cost, veal, 9d. to 10d.per pound. : Veal, Breast of, Ragofit of (another way).—Take about four pounds of the breast of veal. Divide this into pieces convenient for serving, and fry them to a light brown in hot fat. Drain. them, put them into a stewpan, cover with stock made from bones, and put with them a large onion stuck with two cloves, half a blade. of mace, a.handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a small roll of thin lemon-rind, five or six bruised allspice, and a little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer very gently till the veal is tender. Strain a pint of the gravy, or more if required, into a separate saucepan, and put the first one by the.side of the fire that the meat may keep hot. Thicken the gravy with brown thicken- ing, and flavour with a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, and half a wine-glass of light wine.. Taste: it, add a little more pepper and ‘salt if required, and let it boil up once. Put the veal into a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve very hot. A little fried bacon should accompany this dish, and forcemeat balls may be added or not. Time to simmer the veal, one hour and a half, or two hours if thick. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Probable cost, veal, 9d. to 10d. per pound. VEAL, BREAST OF, ROASTED, TO CARVE. Veal, Breast of, Roasted.—If the sweet- bread is retained, skewer it tothe back. Cover the joint with the caul, or, wanting this, with a piece of buttered paper. Put it down to a clear fire at a moderate distance from it, and baste liberally till done enough. When it has been down about an hour and a half, remove the caul, flour the joint, and let it brown. Serve ona hot dish with melted butter poured over. Garnish with a cut lemon, and send boiled bacon to table with it. If liked, forcemeat balls may be served with the veal, and mushroom sauce sent to table with it.. Time to roast' the breast, ‘two to two and a half hours, or twenty minutes: to the pound. Probable cost, veal, 9d. or 10d. per pound. ies “1 Veal, Breast of, Roasted, To Carve. ~The breast of veal should be: first separated into two parts—it rightly consists of two— the rib-Bones and the'gristly brisket. ‘This is’ ‘done by ‘cutting in the diréction of the lines 1, 2. The gristly part being divided into parts in the direction 3, 4; maybe offered to those who prefer it—in a breast of veal stewed these are particularly tender and inviting. The ribs are to be separated’ in the direction 5, 6; and with a part of the breast, a slice of the sweetbread cut across the middle. - ae Veal, Breast.of, Rolled.—Trima breast of veal, and.remove. all. the. bones and tendons. If requested, the butcher will perform this opera- tion, which should be done the day before the veal is to be dressed, so that the bones may be stewed for gravy (see Veal, Gravy for). _ Spread a thin layer of forcemeat over the inside of the breast, roll it up very tightly, and bind it firmly with tape. Tie it in a cloth. Put a plate at the bottom of the stewpan, lay the veal into it, and cover with cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim it, and simmer gently for three -hours. When done enough, take off the cloth, put the veal on a dish, pour the gravy over, garnish with cut lemon, fried bacon, and force- ‘Mmeat balls, and it will be ready for serving. If liked, two pounded anchovies, a little blanched and chopped parsley, and the boiled livers of two fowls may be added to the gravy. Veal thus prepared may be baked or roasted as well as boiled. Time, three hours from the ‘time the water boils. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Probable cost, veal, 10d. per pound. Veal, Breast of, Rolled and Braised. —Bone a breast of veal, spread forcemeat ‘upon it, and roll it'as in the last recipe. Bind securely with tape, and lay slices of fat bacon all round it. Lay it in a stewpan just large enough to contain it, and add a carrot, an onion stuck with cloves, a few peppercorns, half a blade’ of mace, and- a’ bunch of sweet herbs. Pour over it from half'to three-quarters of a ‘pint of stock, cover the saucepan closely, and, , let its contents simmer very gently over a slow fire for three hours. Baste frequently with’ its liquor. Take up the veal, lay it on a dish, and put it in the oven. Strain the liquor, and boil quickly till it begins to thicken. Brush the veal over with it two or three times, then place it on, a, dish, garnish with forcemeat balls, rashers of bacon, or. dressed ve; etables, and send it to table with any of the followin, sauces:—White sauce, Italian sauce, melte butter, parsley sauce, mushroom sauce, &c. Time to simmer the veal, three hours. Veal, Breast of, Stewed in White Sauce.—Take a piece of.the breast of veal weighing about three pounds, and cut it into neat pieces convenient for.serving. Put these into a stewpan. with a bunch of parsley, a.sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, twoshallots, or four young VEA ( 1082 ) VEA onions, the thin rind of half alemon, a blade of mace, and a little sali and white pepper. Pour upon the meat a pint of stock or water, let the liquor boil, skim carefully, then draw it to the side, and simmer as gently as possible till done enough. Take up the meat, and place it in the oven to keep hot. Strain the gravy, put it back into the saucepan, and stir into it the yolks of two eggs which have been beaten up with a quarter of a pint of milk or cream. Stir this sauce over the fire for a minute or two till it begins to thicken, then pour it over the veal, and serve very hot. The sauce must not boil after the eggs are added, or it will curdle. If liked, the meat may be left whole instead of being cut up. Those who like the flavour may rub the stewpan across five or six times with freshly- cut garlic before putting in the meat. Time to simmer the veal, one hour and a half, or two hours if thick. Probable cost, veal, 9d. to 10d. per pound. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Veal, Breast of, Stewed Plainly.— Take out the long bones and the gristle, and trim a breast of veal neatly. . Put it into a stewpan, and cover with boiling stock made from bones. Let the liquor boil, skim care- fully, and simmer very gently until the veal is tender. Drain and dish it, garnish the dish with forcemeat balls, and pour a little good gravy round it. The liquor in which it is stewed, unless thoroughly cleared from the fat, will be too rich to serve with it. A little bacon should accompany this dish. Time to stew the veal, two to two anda half hours. Probable cost, veal, 9d. to 10d. per pound. Veal, Breast of, Stewed with Green Peas.—Take two pounds of the breast of veal. Cut these into pieces convenient for serving, dredge them with flour, and sprinkle upon them alittle pepper, salt, and white sugar. Fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them, and put them into a saucepan with as much boiling stock made from bones as will barely cover them. Letthem simmer very gently till done enough. Baste the meat frequently with the gravy, and skim this well to clear it from fat. Abouta quarter of an hour before the veal is to be served, throw into the liquor about a quart of freshly-shelled young peas. Let them simmer until tender. Serve very hot. ‘Time to simmer the veal, two hours. Probable cost, about 3s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Veal, Breast of, Stewed with Oysters.—Take a piece of the breast of veal weighing about twopounds. Put itinto a sauce- pan. with a large onion stuck with a clove, half a blade of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, half an inch of stick cinnamon, and a little pepper and salt. Pour over it the liquor from a tin of oysters, and add a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice, with a little stock if required. Simmer the veal as gently as possible for two hours, and skim it well. Strain the liquor, put with it a quarter of a pint of milk or cream mixed with the yolks of two eggs, and stir the sauce till it thickens. Make the oysters hot by putting them into the oven in the dish in which the veal is to be served. Pour the sauce upon. them, place the veal in the centre of the dish, and serve very hot. course be used instead of tinned ones, and they will be superior, but more expensive. Time to simmer the veal, two hours. Probable cost, if made with milk,2s.10d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Veal, Breast of, Stuffed and Roasted. — Take a breast of veal weighing about eight pounds. Raise the thick part with the fingers, and force into the vacant place as much veal stuffing as possible. Bring the edges of the meat together, and sew them with twine, or fasten them with skewers, that the force- meat may not escape. Put the veal down at a moderate distance from a clear fire. Baste it liberally. When done enough take it up, pour melted butter over, and send fried rashers of bacon to table with it. Time to roast the veal, one hour and three-quarters. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Veal, Breast of, Stuffed and Stewed. —Take a breast of veal, raise the flesh, and fill the space with good veal forcemeat. Bring the edges together, and sew them securely with a little piece of muslin over them that the force- meat may not escape. Put the meat down before a clear fire, dredge it with flour, and baste till it is equally and brightly browned all over. Take it up, and put it into a stew- pan with about a cupful of stock made from bones. Put the contents of the dripping-tin into it, throw a handful of the forcemeat in to flavour the sauce, cover the stewpan closely, and let the veal simmmer gently till done enough. Take it up, if necessary thicken the gravy with a little brown thickening, pour it over the veal, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with fried rashers of bacon, forcemeat balls, and cut lemon. Time, about half an hour to brown the veal; two hours or more to stew it. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Veal, Breast of, Stuffed and Stewed (another way).—Stuff the breast of veal ag before. Line a stewpan with slices of bacon, put in the veal, and add two onions, each stuck with one clove, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper. Lay slices of bacon’ on the top of the veal, and pour upon it about half a pint or more of stock made from bones. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents sim- mer gently until done enough. Take up the veal, strain the gravy, skim it well, thicken with a little brown thickening, stir the juice of half a lemon into it, and pour it over the meat. A glassful of light wine may be added or not. Garnish the dish with slices of lemon, forcemeat balls, and fried bacon, or send bacon to table on a separate dish. Time to stew the veal, three hours, Probable cost, 9d. to 10d. per pound. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Veal, Breast of, with Spring Vege- tables.—Bone, roll, and braise Gel oe cording to the directions already given for Veal, Breast of, Rolled and Braised. Whilst 1 Fresh oysters may of, VEA ( 1038 ) VEA isin the stewpan prepare and cook separately young vegetables, such as young turnips, car- rots, onions, new potatoes, beans, and green peas. When wanted, heat these in a little of the veal gravy, and place them fancifully round the veal. Pour a little of the sauce into the dish, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Veal, Bride’s Pie of (Scottish dish).— Take two large calf’s feet, and boil them till they are quite tender. Make a mixture as for mince pies, with the calf’s-feet flesh cut up very small, a pound of finely-shred suet, a pound of apples pared, cored, and minced, half a pound of picked and dried currants, half a pound of raisins, two ounces of mixed candied peel, a pinch of powdered cinnamon, and one small nutmeg grated. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and moisten them with a glassful of brandy and a glassful of port. Line a dish with good pastry. Put in the mince, and con- ceal a gold ring in it. Cover the pie with pastry, and ornament with any suitable de- vices. Bake it unti! the pastry is done enough. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Veal, Brisket of, and Rice.—Cut a brisket of veal into neat pieces, and stew it according to the directions already given. Boil a pint of washed rice very gradually in a little more than a quart of broth till it is tender and has absorbed all the moisture. Butter the in- side of a plain mould, and line it with the boiled rice an inch anda half thick. Put the veal into the centre with a little of the thicken- ing sauce. Cover the stew with rice, put on the lid, and bake the preparation in a gentle oven. Let it remain until stiff, and be care- ful that it does not burn. Turn it out upon a dish, and send the remainder of the sauce to table with it. I£ liked, to save trouble, a wall of rice may be placed round the dish, rice being served in the centre. The addition of a spoonful of curry powder or curry paste will convert this dish into curried veal. Time to bake the rice in the mould, about three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Veal, Brisket of, Stewed with Onions.—Cut the brisket of veal into small pieces convenient for serving. Rub a stewpan quickly three or four times across with a freshly- cut clove of garlic. Dissolve in it a thick slice of fresh butter, put in the veal, and add three large onions thinly sliced, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan closely, and stew its contents as gently as possible till done enough. Shake the saucepan frequently to keep the veal from burning. Ten minutes before the dish is to be served pour over the meat a little stock, if this is'needed. Throw in a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley. Let all boil up together, and serve the pieces of veal and the onions in a hot dish with the gravy poured over them. Garnish with toasted sippets and sliced lemon. Time to simmer the veal, two hours. Probable cost, 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Veal Broth.—Stew a knuckle of veal in about a gallon of water, to which put two ounces of rice, or vermicelli, a little salt, and a blade of mace. When the meat has become thoroughly boiled and the liquor is reduced to about one half, it may be sent up to table with or without the meat. Veal Broth, Brown.—Slice one or two onions, and fry them in hot fat till they are browned but not at all burnt. Cut a pound of veal into slices, and break the bone belonging to it into small pieces. Take up the onions with a slice, and brown the meat in the same fat. Pour three pints of stock or water upon the meat; add the bones with any bones and remains of cold roast beef or poultry that may be at hand. Let it boil up, skim carefully, and simmer quickly until the gravy is suf- ficiently strong. Flavouring vegetables may be stewed with it or not, and a spoonful of ketchup may be added if liked. Time to sim- mer the stock, about two hours. Veal Broth for Invalids.—Cut two pounds of lean veal into small pieces. Sprinkle a little salt upon these, and put them into a saucepan with a quart of cold water. Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, then simmer as gently as possible. Strain it, let it get cold, and remove the fat from the surface. Thicken with a little arrowroot before serving. Time to simmer the veal, three hours. Veal, Bubble and Squeak of.—Take the remains of dressed veal; cut the meat into neat slices, fry these in hot fat, and put them before the fire to keep hot. Take some boiled cabbage or spinach. Fry this also, and when it is quite hot pile it on a dish, and arrange the pieces of meat round it. Send tomato or any kind of piquant sauce to table with it. Time to fry the veal and the greens, altogether about a quarter of an hour. Veal Cake.—Take a pound and a half of cold dressed veal freed from fat and, skin. Mince it finely, and thoroughly mix with it half a pound of good bacon, also finely minced. Season. the mixture with a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, a pinch of freshly-pounded mace, half a small nutmeg grated, and a little salt andcayenne. Press it smoothly into a buttered dish, and bake in a gentle oven. When it is done enough, drain the fat from it, turn it upon a dish, and serve hot or cold. If hot, a little brown gravy should be sent to table with it. Beef suet finely shred may, if preferred, be substituted for the bacon. If any portion of this cake is left after being cut, it may be divided into slices, and heated in a Dutch oven. This cake should be baked in a gentle oven, or it will be dried up. Time to bake the cake, an hour and a half. Probable cost, veal, 10d. or lid. per pound. Veal Cake (another way).—Take as much cold dressed lean veal as will fill a small earthenware mould. Mince it finely, and mix with it three ounces of ham or bacon, also minced, a slice of the crumb of bread soaked in milk, a small piece of butter, two eggs well beaten, as much minced shallot as will lie on a threepenny piece, and a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, press them into a buttered mould, VEA ( 1084 ) VEA and: bake the preparation in a moderate oven. Turn it out when cold, and garnish with parsley. If liked, this cake may be served hot, and sent to table with brown gravy. Time to bake the cake, about an hour, or until it is brown. Veal Cake (another way).—Butter a plain earthenware dish or mould. Fill it with alternate layers of hard-boiled yolks of eggs, chopped parsley, and veal and ham minced, seasoned highly, mixed thoroughly, and beaten to a smooth paste. Pour a spoonful or two of seasoned stock upon the meat, cover the pan closely, and bake in a gentle oven. When done enough, press firmly into the mould, put a plate with a weight upon it, and let it remain untouched till cold. Turn it out, garnish with parsley, and serve for luncheon or supper. ‘Time to bake, about an hour. Veal Cake, Superior.—Put a pint of stock made from bones into a stewpan with three young onions, each stuck with one clove, a small sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a small piece of mace, and half an ounce of gelatine. Place the saucepan on the fire, and stir its contents till the gelatine is dissolved. To clarify it, stir into it when cold the white and crushed shell of an egg beaten up with a little water. Let it boil, draw it to the side, and let it simmer gently without touching it for ten minutes ; take it off the fire, let it settle for ten minutes, and then strain it through a jelly-bag. Cut a pound and a half of veal collops and three-quarters of a pound of bacon or ham into thin slices. Pour a spoonful or two of the savoury jelly into an ordinary potting pan or earthenware dish. Let it get cold, then cover with a layer of hard-boiled yolks of eggs cut into slices. Place on this a neat layer of the slices of veal, then a little salt, cayenne, chopped parsley, and shallot, and afterwards a few slices of ham. Pour a little jelly upon this, and repeat the layers until the dish is full. Cover the pan closely with a stiff paste of flour and water, put it in a dripping-tin three parts filled with boiling water, and keep adding more water as this boils away, until the cake is done enough. Take it out of the oven, and set in a cool place for some hours. Turn it upon a dish, and garnish with parsley. If the cake is put into the oven without the water under it, it will in all probability be dried up and spoilt. Time to bake the cake, an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half. Probable cost, 48. Sufficient for a breakfast, luncheon, or supper dish. Veal Cakes, Small.—Mince, season, and mix the veal and bacon as in the last recipe. Divide the mixture into small cakes. Dredge these all over with flour, and fry in hot fat over a gentle fire. Drain them well, and serve in a hot dish with brown sauce, made from the trimmings of the veal and thickened, poured over them. Time to fry the cakes, about a quarter of an hour. Veal—Calf’s Brains (a la Ravigote).— ‘Wash the brains in several waters, and free them from skin and fibre. Boil them for ten minutes in salt and water mixed with a table- spoonful of vinegar; and when they are,firm, cut them in slices, dip them in a frying batter, and fry them to a light brown. Place:them in a circle on a hot dish with a little fried parsley in the centre, and send. ravigote: sauce to table with them. Time to fry the brains, four or five minutes... Calf’s. brains are generally sold with the head. Sufficient for two or three persons. . Veal—Calf’s Head, Boiled.—Take a calf’s head, cut it, in two, and take out the brains; wash the head in several waters, and let it soak in warm water for a quarter of an hour. Place it in a saucepan of cold water, and when the water comes to the boil skim carefully. Half a head, without the skin, will require boiling from an hour and a half to two hours and a. quarter, according to size: with the skin it will require an hour longer. It must be stewed very gently till tender. Boil tender eight or ten sage-leaves, or parsley, or both; chop-them fine, and set them, ready on a plate., Wash the brains well in two waters; put them into a basin of cold water with a little salt in it, and let them soak for an hour; then pour away the cold and cover them with hot water; put them into a stewpan with plenty of cold water, and boil very gently for ten or fifteen minutes. Now chop them (not very fine), put them into a saucepan with the sage-leaves, a couple of table-spoonfuls of thin melted butter, and a little salt (some add a little lemon-juice); and stir them well to- gether. As soon as they are well warmed, skin the tongue, trim off the roots, and put it into the centre of the dish, the brains round it; or chop the brains with an shallot, a little parsley, and four hard-boiled eggs, and put them into a quarter of a pint of béchamel or white sauce. -A calf’s head is usually attended by a pig’s cheek, a knuckle of ham or bacon, or pickled pork, greens, cauliflower, broccoli, or peas, and always by parsley and butter. If you like it full-dressed, score it superficially, beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over the head with a feather. Powder it with a seasoning of finely-minced or dried and pow- dered winter savory, lemon-thyme, or sage, parsley, pepper, salt, and bread-crumbs; and give it a brown with a salamander, or in a tin Dutch oven; when it begins to dry, sprinkle a little melted butter. over it with a paste-brush. You may garnish the dish with broiled rashers of bacon. Veal—Calf’s Head, Hashed.— Soak the head in water, boil it, not thoroughly, but until the meat may be cut clean from the bone. Take the meat off the bone on the best side, lay it in a dish, and cover it with crumbs of bread among which are a few herbs cut very small, with some pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and the yolks of two eggs. Set the dish before the fire, and keep turning it occasionally that all parts of the meat may become brown. Slice the remainder of the head, peel and slice also the tongue. Put a pint of good gravy, or of the liquor in which the head. was boiled, into a pan with an onion, a small bunch of sweot herbs, some salt, cayenne, shallot, a glassful of sherry, and a little oyster liquor. Boil these VEA ( 1035 ) VEA together for a few minutes; then strain it on the meat, which should have been previously dredged with flour. Fresh or pickled mush- rooms, truffles, morels, and two: spoonfuls of ketchup should be added. Half the brains beaten up with flour and butter should be added, and the whole simmered together. The other half of the brains are to be beaten up with lemon-peel and parsley finely chopped, some nutmeg, mace, and an egg.. These are to be fried in small cakes, also some oysters dipped in yolk of egg; with these and some good force- meat balls the dish must be garnished. ‘ Veal—Calf’s Head Pie (to be served cold).—Scald, soak, and parboil half a calf’s head, with two pounds of the knuckle of veal, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of parsley, a strip of thin lemon-rind, half a blade of mace, a little salt and cayenne, and as much stock made from bones as will cover the meat. Let the liquor boil, and simmer it for half an hour. Remove the scumas it rises. Let the head get cold, then cut off the flesh in neat. pieces convenient for serving. Skin the tongue, and cut it into small square pieces. Strain the liquor in which the head was simmered, and dissolve a little isinglass or gelatine in it, so that it will jelly strongly when cold. Cut part of the veal into pieces, mince the remainder, and make it into Eircestead with bread-crumbs, shred beef suet, and seasoning (sce Veal Force- meat). Divide this into balls the size of a nut- meg. Butter a good-sized pie-dish. Line it with thin slices of lean ham, and fill it with layers of the calf’s head, the.tongue, the veal, the forcemeat balls, and hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Season each layer with salt, pepper, grated lemon-rind, and nutmeg. Cover the meat with strained jelly gravy. Line the edges of the dish with good pastry, cover with the game, ornament the surface as fancy dictates, brush it over with beaten egg, and bake in a well-heated oven. "When the pastry is tho- roughly baked the pie is done enough. In favourable weather this pie will keep good for ten days or more. Probable cost, 6s. to 8s. Sufficient for a luncheon or supper dish. .Veal—Calf’s Head, Plain.—Take a nice calf’s head and bone it, that is to say, take off.the bones of the lower jaw and of the nose, | which you cut off as close to the eyes as possible. Then put all this into a large vessel with warm water to wash and disgorge the blood, or otherwise the head will look reddish. Then blanch it thoroughly, and let it cool. Now make, a. blanc in the following manner :—Melt over the fire four ounces of finely-chopped beef suet. When clear add four ounces of flour, a gallon of water, two onions sliced, three cloves, _a clove of -garlic, two bunches of herbs, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and plenty of Pepper and salt. Stir the preparation over the fire. When boiling put in the calf’s head and the tongue, lay a round of’ paper over the pan, and simmer for two hours and a half. When done, drain it, Take out the tongue, flay, it, and then replace it. A calf’s head must be served up quite hot, with the sauce called au pauvre homme (poor man’s sauce), namely minced shallots. and: parsley, vinegar, salt and pepper, and the brains well minced. Veal—Calf’s Liver, Fried.—Take two pounds of calf’s. liver. Cut it into slices, and soak these in water forhalfan hour. Dry them in a soft cloth, and dip them into flour.. Fry them with a little fat, and turn them about that they may be equally cooked. When they are lightly browned, sprinkle over them a savoury powder made with equal quantities of chopped parsley and finely-shred young onions, and a little pepper and salt. Pour a little stock over the liver, let it simmer a few minutes, add the strained juice of a lemon, and serve the liver on a hot dish with the gravy poured over it. If liked, this dish may be enriched by adding a pinch of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a glassful of light wine to the stock. Fried bacon may then be served with it. Time, from ten to fifteen minutes to dress the liver. Sufficient for four or five persons. Probable cost of calf’s liver, 10d. per pound. Veal, Choosing of.—The ficsh. of veal ought to be white, approaching to pink, with the fat firm. It should not be too large or it will be coarse and hard. The vein in the shoulder should be of a bright red, and the kidneys should be covered with fat. If the flesh be clammy and discoloured. by spots of various hues, the veal is unfit for use. Veal is best when it is from two to three months old. The flesh of the bull-calf is suited for joints, that of the cow-calf for made dishes. The latter possesses the udder, which causes it to be preferred. ‘That part of the loin which is under the kidney first begins to taint. It should therefore be examined carefully before being purchased. When the udder is skewered back it is.always well to take out the skewer in order to ascertain whether the under part is perfectly sweet. Under the pretext of making veal white a barbarous practice has prevailed of bleeding the calves daily until they have scarcely any blood left before killing them. Although this method of slaughtering the animal is not now universally adopted, it is still carried on toa large extent. ‘The humane house- keeper would do well to ask the butcher whether or not the meat is killed in this way, and to refuse to purchase it unless the calf has: been deprived of life with as little pain as possible. “Tt is necessary to observe,” says M. Ude, «that the veal. you intend to serve for dishes must always be very white and fat; what you use for sauces is not of so much consequence ; but it is certain that very white veal is more healthy than common veal: red veal will dis- order a great many stomachs, white never does.” Veal Chop Stewed with Carrots.— Take a large chop from the neck,, about, one pound in weight, saw off the chine bone, trim the chop neatly, and fry it in a little hot fat for three or four minutes till it is lightly browned on both sides. Take it up, drain if, and put it into a small clean saucepan with two large carrots cut into thick slices, an onion stuck with two cloves, and a little pepper and salt. Pour over the meat as much boiling stock as will cover it; put the lid on the saucepan, VEA ( 1036 ) VEA and let its contents simmer gently until the carrot is tender, when the meat also will be sufficiently done. Put the chop on a dish, gar- nish with the carrots, strain the gravy over all, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the chop, about an hour. Probable cost, veal, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for one person. Veal Chops broiled in Paper.—Take the chops from the neck, remove the chine- bone, gristle, and skin, and fry gently in a little butter. Prepare for each chop a piece of doubled stiff white paper sufficiently large to leave a margin an inch and a half wide round the chop. Butter this well, lay on it a thin slice of fat bacon, a spoonful of thick white sauce, the cutlet, another spoonful of sauce, and a second slice of bacon; double down the edges securely. Lay the chops on a gridiron, and place this at a considerable height above a clear fire. Let them broil gently, and turn frequently. Serve on a hot dish in the papers. Garnish with sliced lemon. Time to broil, fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient, two pounds of chops for four persons. Veal, Chump of, Stewed.—-Take the chump end of a loin of veal. Bone it, and tie it in shape with tape. The butcher will bone it if desired. Put it into a stewpan, and pour a half-pint of veal stock upon it. Boil this quickly till it begins to thicken, draw it back, and let it acquire a little colour; then pour over it a quart of nicely-flavoured stock and a glass- ful of light wine, and let it simmer very gently till the meat is tender. A quarter of an hour before it is to be served take it up, drain it, and put it in the oven. Strain the liquor, boil quickly till it is reduced to half glaze, then baste the meat with it until it looks bright and glossy. Put it on a dish, and garnish with glazed carrots, or onions, or with boiled cauli- flowers. ‘Tomatoes, mushrooms, or any kind of dressed vegetables may be served with this dish, and brown sauce, Italian sauce, béchamel, tomato sauce, &c. may be sent to table with it. Time to simmer the veal, an hour and a half, rather more. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Veal, Cold, Baked.—Take a quarter of a pound of cold roast veal free from skin and gristle. Mince it finely, and with it two or three slices of bacon. Add the bulk of the mince in finely-grated bread-crumbs, together with a little salt and cayenne, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of minced lemon-rind, and a pinch of pounded mace. Mix these ingredients tho- roughly, stir them into a cupful of veal gravy, add two well-beaten eggs, and pour the whole into a small buttered dish. Bake in a well- heated oven, and serve with gravy in a tureen. Time to bake, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d. Sufficient for two persons. Veal, Cold, Hashed.—Take about one pound of cold veal, and cut the lean part into thin slices, free from skin and gristle. Season these with a little salt and pepper, and dredge a table-spoonful of flour upon them. Mince a moderate-sized onion finely. Put it in a sauce- pan with the bones, skin, and trimmings of the veal, and any flavouring ingredients that may be chosen; cover all with stock or water, and simmer the gravy gently for an hour. Strain it, pour it back into the saucepan, and put into it the pieces of veal. Let them simmer in it till they are tender, but without boiling. Add a tea-spoonful of vinegar or lemon-juice. Place the veal on a dish. Garnish with toasted sippets and a little fried bacon. Pour the gravy round the veal, and serve the hash very hot. Time, about an hour to simmer the meat. Pro- pable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat and bacon. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal, Cold. Minced Plainly.—Take one pound of cold veal, free it from the bone, skin, and almost entircly from fat; cut it into small pieces with a sharp knife, and afterwards mince it finely. Season with a little pepper and salt, a pinch of pounded mace or grated nutmeg, and the rind of a quarter of a small lemon lightly grated; cover with a cloth, and leave it in a cool place till wanted. Break the bone of the veal, and put the pieces into a saucepan with the trimmings and skin, a quar- ter of the rind of a lemon, a small bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a few pepper- corns. Pour upon these ingredients a pint and a half of stock or water, cover the saucepan closely, and stew the gravy gently till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. When they can be had, a slice of carrot, a stick of celery, an ounce of boiled or unboiled ham, or a little bacon-rind, may be stewed with the gravy. Strain it into a bowl, and when cold free it entirely from fat. Moisten the mince tho- roughly with it. Melt a slice of fresh butter in asaucepan. Mix smoothly with it a dessert- spoonful of flour and about two table-spoonfuls of thick cream or milk. Stir the mince into this, and let it get thoroughly hot by the side of the fire, but on no account allow it to boil. Pour the preparation into a dish, garnish with toasted sippets, and serve very hot. A few thin rashers of fried bacon may be served as an accompaniment. Time, about two hours to simmer the gravy; twenty minutes to heat the mince. Probable cost, 6d., exdlusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal, Cold, Minced with Mush- rooms or Oysters.—Take a pound of cold dressed veal, and trim away the gristle and the brown edges. A little fat may be added or not; this is a matter of taste. Mince the meat finely, season with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, and heat it—without letting it reach the point of boiling—in a pint of rich sauce. Stir into the sauce at the moment of serving half a pint of mushrooms stewed till tender witha slice of butter and minced. Turn the prepara- tion on a dish, and garnish with fried sippets. If liked, a dozen or more oysters may be used instead of the mushrooms. They should be bearded and put into the mince a quarter of a minute before it is taken from the fire. The oyster broth should, of course, be added. Time, till thoroughly hot. The mince should be very slowly heated. Veal, Cold, To Ragofit.—Cut the white part of the ‘cold veal into small round cutlets about the third of an inch thick, and free from VEA ( 1087 ) VEA skin and gristle. Break up the bones of the | with a heavy weight upon it, and let it remain: veal, and with them, the skin and trimmings of _ until cold. Brush sis with liquid glaze, and the meat, and any flavouring ingredients that may be chosen, make a little good gravy. Strain this, and thicken it with a small piece of brown thickening, or with a small slice of butter. Season the gravy rather highly with pepper, mace or nutmeg, and anchovy, or mushroom powder. Flour the slices of veal, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly browned. Drain them, put them on a dish, pour the gravy over, and serve very hot. Time, an hour or more to make the gravy. Veal, Cold, To Re-dress.—Cold veal may be served in various ways, for which recipes are given under the different headings. It may be minced, hashed, or made into croquets and rissoles, curried, made into minced collops, and served with Tartar sauce, or made into a mould. For the latter method proceed as follows :—Cut cold-dressed veal into slices, and mince it finely, fat and lean together. Season as for minced veal, with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and a little lemon-rind. Moisten with white stock, and bind the whole together with yolk of egg. Press it into a buttered mould, cover closely, and put it into a pan of fast-boiling water. Let it simmer gently for an hour, or longer if large. Turn it out, and serve with white gravy, or if preferred brush it over after it is turned out with beaten egg, sprinkle finely-grated bread- crumbs thickly over it, brown it in a brisk oven, or before the fire, and send brown sauce to table with it. Garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Time to boil the mould, one hour or more. Veal, Collared, or Galantine of Veal. —Take a fine breast of veal. Put it into a stewpan with as much cold water as will cover it, and put with it an onion and a carrot, half a dozen peppercorns, a moderate-sized lump of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Bring the liquor quickly to the boil, skim carefully, then draw the saucepan back, and let it sim- mer gently for a couple of hours. Take it up, remove the bones and the gristle, and lay it flat upon the table skin downwards. Have ready prepared half a pound of lean ham cut into thin strips, four truffles cleaned and thinly sliced, and a forcemeat made with the hard-boiled yolks of twelve eggs pounded smoothly with three ounces of clarified butter, the grated rind of a lemon, as much grated nutmeg as will cover a sixpence, 2 salt- spoonful of white pepper, a tea-spoonful of powdered sweet herbs, two tea-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, and a tea-spoonful of anchovy. Rub the veal quickly across with a piece of freshly-cut garlic, sprinkle a little salt upon it, and rub the strained juice of a lemon into it. Spread the egg forcemeat equally over, and lay the truffle and ham upon this in alternate lines. Roll the veal up very tightly, bind it with tape, and tie it in a cloth. Sew it up securely. Put it again into the liquor in which it was simmered, add the bones and trim- mings, let it boil up, then simmer as gently as possible three hours longer. Let it remain in the liquor half an hour after it is taken from the fire, Put it on a board, lay a large dish garnish with very stiff aspic jelly cut into cubes, diamonds, &c. If preferred, good veal forcemeat may be used instead of the egg forcemeat, and the truffles may be omitted. Very good soup may be made of the liquor in which the veal was stewed. Time, two hours to simmer the veal the first time, three hours the second. Probable cost, 14s. Sufficient for a luncheon or supper dish. Veal Collops (i VIndienne).— See In- dian Veal Collops. Veal Collops, Braised.—Cut about a pound of the fillet of veal into neat rounds half an inch thick and about the size of a crown piece. Pick the leaves from a handful of parsley, wash them and chop them small, then mix with them a minced shallot and a small bunch of chives. Butter a stewpan thickly, sprinkle some of the herbs into it, and place in it alternate layers of veal and herbs until all the ingredients are used. Season each layer of veal with salt and pepper, and add a small slice of butter or a tea-spoonful of olive oil occa- sionally. Cover the whole with slices of bacon, and lay a round of oiled paper on the top. Put the lid on the stewpan, put a few red-hot cinders upon it (if this can be done), and stew the veal as gently as possible over a slow fire till it is tender. Arrange the pieces of veal in adish. Half a glassful of light wine should be poured in when the veal is half dressed. Puta little brown sauce into the stewpan, let it boil, and pour it over the collops. Veal Collops, Made with Dressed Veal.—tTake the remains of roast veal. Cut the meat into slices three-quarters of an inch thick, three inches long, and two inches across. Gash these with a sharp knife, and sprinkle upon them salt and cayenne, pounded mace, or grated nutmeg. Cover them, and lay them aside _ till wanted. Break up the bones, and put them, with the skin and trimmings of the-meat into, a saucepan. Cover with stock or water, and add an onion, a pinch of powdered mace, a few peppercorns, a small roll of lemon-rind, and a little salt. Let the gravy simmer till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Thicken it, and, sup- osing there is half a Na of it, stir into it a ew drops of strained lemon-juice, a table- spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and two table- spoonfuls of sherry. Flour and fry the collops in hot fat, put them in a dish, the sauce over them, and serve. Fried rashers of bacon should accompany this dish. If liked, a few forcemeat balls may be interspersed with the meat in the dish, and three table-spoonfuls of thick cream, or two table-spoonfuls of milk beaten up with the yolk of an egg, may be stirred into the sauce. Time to fry the collops, about six minutes; one hour to make the gravy. Veal Collops Made with Fresh Meat.—No. 1. Veal collops should be taken from the shoulder or the fillet. Cut the meat in slices half an inch thick, three inches long, and two broad. Flatten them with a cutlet- bat, and dredge them well with flour. Take as many rashers of bacon a quarter of an inch thick as there are slices of veal. Fry these in VEA ( 1038 ) VEA a sauté-pan. Take them up, put them on a dish, and fry the vealin the fat-which has come from the bacon. When it is nicely browned on both sides, place it neatly on a dish, and arrange the bacon round it. Pour the-fat out of the pan, and dissolve a small slice,of butter in it. Mix a little flour smoothly with this, and moisten: gradually with a little. stock or water. Let it boil till smooth, add: salt and pepper, and pour it round the veal in the dish. Serve very hot. Time to fry the meat,about twenty minutes. No. 2. Cut the collops as before. Rub them quickly over with a freshly- cut shallot, and sprinkle a little salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg upon them. | Dip them in egg and bread-crumb, or in flour, and fry them in hot fat till they are lightly and. equally browned on both sides. Drain them, and put them in a saucepan, pour over them as much stock as will cover them, add a small roll of lemon-rind, a blade of mace, half a dozen pep- percorns, and an onion, and let them simmer gently till done enough. Put them on a hot dish, strain the gravy upon them, and serve. Time to simmer the veal, half an hour. No: 3. Divide the veal into slices as before, and take an equal number of thin rashers of bacon of the same shape and size. Lay the bacon on the veal, cover with a thin layer of veal force- meat, sprinkle a little cayenne upon this, and roll up the collops tightly. Skewer each one firmly. Melt a Tittle butter in a stewpan, put in the rolls and turn them about till they are equally and lightly browned. Put them on a hot dish before the fire. Pour off the fat in which they were fried, and dissolve, a slice of fresh butter in the pan. Mix'a little flour smoothly with it, and add as much stock or water as will make the sauce of the consistency of cream, together with a little salt, pepper, pounded mace, and a small piece of lemon-rind for seasoning. Simmer the rolls gently in the sauce for an hour and a half. When serving garnish with sprigs of cauliflower. Probable cost, veal, 1s. per pound. : Veal Collops, Minced (made with cold meat).—Take the remains of cold dressed veal. ‘With a pound and a half of veal, freed from skin and gristle, mix half a pound of lean ham or tongue. Cut the meat into small pieces, mince finely, and season with a pinch of cayenne, half a. small nutmeg grated, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, half a ted-spoon- ful of mixed mustard, the grated rind and strained juice of half a lemon, and a few drops of anchovy.. Moisten the mixture with a slice of fresh butter clarified, and a spoonful or two of strong stock, and let it form a stiff paste. Make this into neat round collops, brush each one with clarified butter, dredge flour upon it, then dip it in egg and seasoned bread-crumbs: repeat this operation twice. Put tke ccllops in a baking-dish. Place a small piece of putter upon each, and bake in a quick oven. When lightly browned, serve them in a circle on a hot dish with cold tartar sauce in the centre (see Tartar Sauce). Time to bake the collops, a quarter of an. hour. Veal Collops, Scotch.—No. 1. Cut the: veal.into small round eollops half an inch thick and about three inches across. Beat them with a cutlet-bat to flatten them, and sprinkle upon them salt, white pepper, and grated nutmeg, or if preferred dip them in egg and seasoned pread-crumbs. Dissolve a slice of fresh. butter in a saucepan over a gentle fire. ‘Fry: the -coi- lops in this till they are equally and lightly browned. Drain them, lift them into a hot dish, and pour over them a little good brown sauce seasoned rather highly, and flavoured with lemon-juice. Serve very hot with thin slices of bacon round the dish. Time to fry tho collops, about four minutes. No. 2. Fry.the collops as above. Lift them upon a hot dish before the fire. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in the saucepan, and as it melts mix a table- spoonful of flour smoothly with it. Stir it for two or three minutes, then add gradually as much stock made from bones as will make the sauce of the consistency of cream. Put in also an anchovy and half a dozen button mushrooms chopped small. Let the sauce simmer for ten minutes, then add a little salt and white pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and the fried collops. ‘Let them simmer without boiling for ten or fifteen minutes, and serve them:in a hot dish with the gravy poured over, and toasted bacon round them. ‘Time, four minutes to fry the collops, ten minutes to simmer them in the gravy. Probable cost, veal, 1s. per pound. Veal Cones.—Mince the veal with a little ham or tongue, and form it into a paste as for Veal Collops, Minced. If liked, this paste may be moistened with cream instead of stock. Form it into cones about three inches high. Brush these over with beaten egg, dredge bread-crumbs thickly upon them, and-fry them in hot fat till they are brightly browned, or bake them in a brisk oven. Put a layer of fried bread-crumbs in a dish, place the cones upon them, and send tartar sauce, or if pre- ferred brown sauce, to table with them. Veal Consommé for Making White Sauces.—Rub the inside of a bright saucepan with a coarse towel briskly for a minute or two. Heat it a little, and rub it with butter. Lay in it two or three slices of lean ham or bacon, then add two pounds of the neck or knuckle of veal cut into pieces about four inches square. Pour upon it half a pint of stock made from bones. Place it ona brisk fire for about twenty minutes, or till the veal is very lightly browned. Probe it in several places with the point of a knife till the juice flows freely. Put it again on the fire till the gravy begins to thicken without being at all coloured. Turn it over once or twice, pour upon it boiling stock made from bones in the proportion of a pint and a half of stock to a pound of meat. Let the liquor boil, throw in a little salt, and skim it well, then draw the saucepan to the side, and simmer the gravy very gently for about two hours. Strain ‘It into a bowl,.and when cold remove the fat from the surface. An onion, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three sticks of celery, half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns, and a blade of mace should be simmered with the gravy to flavour it... A few button mushrooms will greatly improve it, but they may be omitted. The bones of poultry may, if liked, be sub- VEA { 1089 ) VEA stituted for a portion of the veal. Time to simmer the gravy, about two hours. Probable cost, knuckle of veal, 5d. to 7d. per pound.. Veal, Croquettes of.—Remove tho skin, gristle, and sinew from some cold dressed veal. Mince it finely, and with one pound of veal mince four ounces of ham, tongue, or bacon. Season the mixture with salt, white pepper, and ted nutmeg, and put it in a saucepan; stir for a quarter of an hour over a geritle fire with an, ounce of butter rolled in flour, one table- spoonful of thick cream, and one table-spoonful of very strong stock made from the bones and trimmings of the veal. Turn the preparation upon a dish, and spread it to a smooth layer about an inch thick. Let it get quite cold and stiff, then form it to the shape of small balls or corks. Egg and bread-crumb the croquettes,and leave them in a cool place for an hour; then egg and bread-crumb them again. Put them into a wire frying-basket, plunge them into boiling fat, and let them remain until they are brightly browned all over. Drain them thoroughly, serve on & hot napkin, and garnish with parsley: Veal Curry, Forcemeat Balls for. —lIf liked, a few forcemeat balls may be put into the curry. To make them, boil an egg hard, pound the yoke in a mortar, mix with it some finely-grated bread-crumbs, a pinch of salt, and a seasoning of curry powder or paste. Rub a small slice of fresh butter into the mix- ture, form it into balls the size of small marbles. Throw them into fast-boiling water for a couple of minutes, and they will be ready for use. Veal Curry Made with. Cold Dressed Veal.—Take about two pounds of cold dressed veal, and cut it into neat pieces about a quarter of an inch thick.. Slice four onions and one apple, and fry them in fat, turning them about till they are soft. Rub them through a sieve, and mix with the pulp a table-spoonful of curry paste or curry powder, a dessert-spoonful of ground rice, a pinch of salt, and a little stock or water. Boil the sauce till it is smooth, put in the pieces of veal, draw the pan back and simmer the meat gently in the sauce for about half an hour. Dish the curry neatly, and send rice boiled for curry to table on a separate dish. .Time, about three-quarters ofanhour. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for four or five persons. Veal Curry Made with Fresh Meat. —Veal may be curried whether it is cooked or not. The fresh meat is, of course, to be pre- ferred, though the other is very good. To curry fresh veal, take about two pounds of veal from the breast or cutlets from the neck. Cut it'into neat pieces convenient for serving, rub these over with curry powder, and fry them in hot fat till they are brightly browned. Take them up, put them into a saucepan with a pint of stock, and simmer them gently till tender. Slice a large onion, and minte an apple finely. Fry these in the fat in which the veal was fried they are quite soft. Rub them patiently hrough a sieve, then mix with the pulp a table- sont ‘of Captain White’s curry paste, a ‘essert-spoonful of ground rice, a pinch of salt, and a tea-spoonful of finely-minced lemon-rind. | given, | braise the veal, about three hours,. Probable Add gradually the. stock in which the veal has simmered, let the sauce boil up, put the cutlets in again, and simmer all together over a gentle fire for half anhour. Place the meat ona dish, pour the sauce over, and. send rice boiled for curry to table on a separate dish. If liked, a little lemon-juice may be used instead of the sour apple, and milk may be substituted for the veal stock. Some cooks put a clove of garlic into the curry, but this is a matter of taste. Time to simmer the veal, three-quarters of an hour in the stock and half an hour in the gravy. Probable cost, veal, 10d. to 1s, per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Veal, Cushion of, Braised (superior). —The cushion.of veal, or the noiz, as it is called in French cookery-books, is simply that part of the leg which is covered by the udder. It should be separated from the under part of the fillet with a sharp knife, and the udder should be left whole, closely adhering to the cushion in its original position. The sinewy parts may be cut away, Take the cushion thus prepared, and lard the fleshy portion evenly and neatly with strips of fat bacon. Butter a braising- pan, and cover the bottom with a layer of sliced vegetables (onions, carrots, celery, and herbs), put in the larded veal and any bones and trimmings of meat that may be at hand, pour in as much stock as will just touch the surface of the veal, and braise it very gently over a slow fire. Butter a round of paper to fit the stewpan, lay this over the meat, put the lid over all. Every now and then the paper must be lifted and the meat basted with the gravy. Stew very gently indeed: till the veal is tender.‘ Remove the lid and the paper, and put the stewpan into the oven to brown. Still baste it occasionally. The gravy should now be considerably reduced, and very thick. If it is, put the meat on a dish, and strain the gravy over it, If it is not, boil it quickly in a sauce- pan with the lid off until it becomes so. The fat must of course be removed from it. Garnish the dish with a mixture of dressed vegetables, and send sorrel to table with it. The sorrel may be prepared as follows: Wash and pick the stalks from three pounds of fresh sorrel. Boil for fifteen minutes in a quart of water salted, then drain, and chop small. Melt an ounce and a half of butter, mix with it one ounce of flour. When smooth add a gill of broth and the sorrel. Stir over the fire for a few minutes, add another gill of broth, and stir again for twenty minutes. Mix three eggs with half a gill of milk, pour into the sorrel, and stir over the fire for five minutes. If liked, the veal can be laid upon the sorrel in the dish. Endive, spinach, or mushrooms, may be served. with the dish. Time to braise the veal, about three hours. Probable cost, 1s. per pound, Veal, Cushion of, Braised (another way)-—Prepare the veal as in the last recipe, | then, instead of larding it, make deep incisions-in the fleshy portion of it, and fill these alternately with pieces of truffle or tongue. Cover the cushion with thin slices of fat bacon, and braise the veal according to the instructions already Serve with rich white sauce. Time to ; VEA ( 1040 ) VEA cost, veal, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Veal Custard.—Break three fresh eggs into a bowl, take out the specks, and beat them till light. Stir into them gradually half a pint of boiling veal gravy, add a seasoning of salt and cayenne, a pinch of powdered mace, and a tea-spoonful of lightly-grated lemon-rind. Butter some cups, and three-parts fill them with the custard. Bake them ina gentle oven till they are set, then turn them upon a dish, and pour a little good veal gravy round them. If pre- ferred, the custard may be baked in a small dish edged with pastry. ime to bake the custard, fifteen to twenty minutes. Veal Cutlets.—Veal cutlets may either be cut from the best end of the neck, or what is called a veal cutlet may be taken from the fillet. Chops only are taken from the loin. If cut from the neck the chine-bone, gristle, and skin should be removed, and the upper part of the rib-bones shortened. After being trimmed, the meat should be beaten with a cutlet-bat to make it smooth. A veal cutlet when trimmed weighs from six to eight ounces. Probable cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. per pound, Veal Cutlets (another way).—Take two or three cutlets about three-quarters of an inch thick from the best end of the neck of veal. Flatten them with the cutlet-bat, sprinkle pepper and salt upon them, and fry them in butter or lard six minutes on each side. Take them up, drain them, and put them aside till cool. Take a sheet of stiff paper for each cutlet. Trim the edges to make it as nearly as.possible of the shape of the cutlet, and be careful to leave a tolerably wide margin for folding over. Oil the paper, lay on it a slice of bacon, a spoonful of sauce, the cutlet, another spoonful of sauce, and another slice of bacon. Double the edges of the paper all round that the sauce may not escape. When the cutlets are to be served, broil them over a very slow fire, and turn them over that they may be equally cooked. Serve them on a dish in the papers. The sauce with which they are to be covered may be made as follows:—Thicken a pint of nicely-flavoured stock with an ounce of flour. Boil it till it is smooth. Strain it, put it back into the sauce- pan, and boil till it is reduced to half the quantity. Stir into it a little grated ham, a little parsley, half a tea-spoonful of minced shallots, one or two chopped mushrooms if they are to be had, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and keep stirring for a few minutes. The sauce should form a stiff jelly when cold, and if the stock of which it is made is not sufficiently strong for this a little gelatine may be dissolved in it to make it so. Time to broil the cutlets, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets (another way).—Soak the cutlets in oil for an hour, and put into the oil a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a small onion finely minced, and a little pepper and salt. Drain anddry them. Lay each cutlet on a sheet of white paper which has been well saturated with oil, cover with bread-crumbs, divide the fluid in which they have been soaked equally among the cutlets, and lay a slice of bacon upon each. Wrap the cutlets in stiff white paper, and fold the edges so that the juice cannot escape. Broil the cutlets some distance above a clear fire, and turn them that they may be equally cooked. Sometimes cutlets thus prepared are roasted before w gentle fire, instead of being broiled. Ravigote sauce, or good gravy, or a little lemon-juice, may be served with the cutlets, or they may be sent to table with their own sauce only. It is a good plan to interpose a piece of oiled paper between the paper envelope and the heated gridiron. Time to broil the cutlets, about twenty minutes. Veal Cutlets (another way).—See Cutlets, Veal. Veal Cutlets (a Ja Dauphin).—Take six fine cutlets of veal, and pare them on one side only, but all on the same side : lard them like a fricandeau, only let the bacon be cut finer ; let them be braised also in the same manner asa fricandeau ; then reduce the liquor in which they have been stewed, with which you glaze them. Serve up with either endive or sorrel. Veal Cutlets (a la Financiére). — Take the best end of a neck of veal. Saw off the rib-bones so as to make the cutlets about three inches long, and the chine-bone, and divide the meat into cutlets of an even thickness. Trim them neatly, flatten them with the cutlet-bat, and lard through the lean part evenly and closely with quarter-inch strips of fat bacon. Line the bottom of a small stewpan with sliced carrot, onion, and celery, and add a bunch of herbs and an onion stuck with six cloves. Lay the cutlets upon the vegetables, pour upon them as much stock or water as will barely touch the surface of the veal, and cover the meat with a round of oiled paper. Place the stewpan on a gentle fire, and let its contents simmer as gently as possible till the cutlets are tender. Baste frequently with the liquor in the pan. Take up the cutlets, and put them on a dish with the larded side uppermost. Strain the stock in which they were stewed. Thicken with a small piece of brown thickening. Let it simmer by the side of the fire that it may throw up the grease, which should be carefully removed. Stir into the sauce a wine-glassful of ketchup, a wine-glassful of sherry or madeira, and a pinch of cayenne. Pour the sauce round the veal cutlets, and serve very hot. Stewed mushrooms, or truffles, or different kinds of dressed vegetables, may be served with this dish. Time to simmer the cutlets, about an hour and ahalf. Probable cost, veal, 1s. to 1s. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets (ala Maintenon, or En Papil- lotes).—This mode of dressing cutlets is said to have been invented by Madame de Maintenon, Louis XIV.’s favourite, to tempt the failing appetite of the king when he was advanced in age. Take some cutlets from the best end of the neck of veal. Saw off the chine-bone, trim away the skin and gristle, shorten the rib-bones, and pare away the meat from the tip of the VEA ( 1041 ) VEA bones. Fry the cutlets in butter or lard till they are lightly browned on both sides. Take _ them up, drain them, and put them aside. Put a small bunch of sweet herbs into a stewpan witha little minced shallot, a roll of thin lemon- rind, and a slice of fat bacon cut into dice. Pour upon these ingredients a pint of strong veal stock, or veal stock with a little gelatine dissolved init. Add salt and pepper as required, cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer very gently till the veal is tender. Take up the cutlets, and set them aside to cool; strain the liquor, and set that aside also. It ought to form a stiff jelly when cold. When + the cutlets are wanted, take as many sheets of stiff white paper as there are cutlets. Cut away the corners to give them something of the shape of a heart, but leave them sufficiently large to enfold the cutlets. Oil the paper on both sides. Place a cutlet on each’paper, spread a little of the sauce upon it, then fold it in the paper, and twist the edges securely, so that the sauce cannot escape. Broil the cutlets thus enclosed in paper over a gentle fire, or, if pre- ferred, place them in a brisk oven till they are heated thoroughly, and the envelopes are lightly browned. Dish them in the papers with fried parsley asa garnish. Time to fry the cutlets, about a quarter of an hour. To broil them, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, from 1s. to 1s. 2d. Veal Cutlets (@ la Venitienne)—Cut the best end of a neck of veal into cutlets, trim these in the usual way, and flatten them with the cutlet-bat. Mince finely half a pint of mush- rooms, and mix with them two shallots, a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, anda little pepper. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, add a quarter of a pound of fat bacon cut into dice, and the minced herbs, &c. Stew all gently together till the mushrooms are tender; put in the cutlets with as much white stock as will barely cover them, and let all sim- mer very gently till they are done enough. Add a spoonful of white thickening, and carefully remove the fatasit rises. A few minutes before the veal is to be served add the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little cream tothe sauce. Mix in a table-spoonful of strained lemon-juice and a pitich of cayenne. Place the cutlets on a dish, pour the sauce into the centre, and serve very hot. Send sorrel or tomatoes, or any dressed vegetables, to tableas an accompaniment. Time, about three-quarters of an hour to stew the cutlets. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Veal Cutlets (A la Zingara).—Take a tolerably thick slice from the fillet of veal. Cut it into round pieces convenient for serving, trim these neatly, and fry them in a stewpan with hot butter or lard till they are lightly browned. Pour off the fat, and pour upon the cutlets as much brown sauce as will cover them. Put into the saucepan with them two ounces of grated ham, an onion stuck with one clove, a large carrot grated, and a small bunch of sweet herbs. Simmer all gently together over a slow ‘fire till the cutlets are tender. Take them up, and keep them hot. Have already prepared as many slices of lean ham or of cold tongue as there are cutlets; they should be trimmed to the 66—n.z. same shape and size. Fry these in butter for five minutes. Dish the cutlets in a circle ona hot dish with a slice of ham or tongue between each. Strain the sauce, and serve it in the centre of the dish. Time to stew the cutlets, about one hour and a half. Probable cost, veal, 1s. to 1s. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets (a I’Italienne).—Cut a slice of lean veal from the fillet into neat pieces, and beat these with a cutlet-bat. Mince finely a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a bay- leaf. Fry the herbs in butter, and be careful that they donot acquire any colour. Brushthe cutlets with beaten egg, lay the fried herbs upon them, and sprinkle finely-grated bread-crumbs upon these. Let them remain untouched for an hour; then repeat the process. Fry the cutlets in butter over a gentle fire till they are suf- ficiently cooked and brightly browned. Send to table with them a sauce prepared as follows: —Mince a handful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and one shallot. Fry these ingre- dients in a little salad oil over a gentle fire, and stir briskly to keep them from acquiring any colour. Pour upon them half a pint of brown sauce, and add a wine-glassful of mush- room ketchup, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a few fresh mushrooms finely minced, if they are to be had. Let the sauce boil; simmer by the side of the fire till it has thrown up the grease, skim it, and it will be ready for use. A glassful of sherry or madeira will much improve this sauce. The sauce should of course be prepared before the cutlets are fried. Time to fry the cutlets, twelve to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets and Celery.—Divide the best end of a neck of veal into neat cutlets. Trim these in the usual way, and beat them with a cutlet-bat. "Wash four heads of celery, and cut them into neat pieces. Put them into a saucepan, cover with boiling water slightly salted, add a blade of mace, let them boil quickly for ten minutes, then drain them. Lay the celery at the bottom of a saucepan, add the cutlets and a little salt and pepper, and pour over them as much veal stock made from the bones and trimmings of the cutlets as will barely coverthem. Let them simmer gently till tender. Take up the cutlets, and mix with the celery, now reduced to pulp, a quarter of a pint of milk or cream and a thickening of flour and butter. Stir the sauce over the fire for ten minutes, pour it over the cutlets, and serve immediately. A little stewed onion may be put with the celery if liked, but this is a matter of taste. Garnish the dish with veal, forcemeat balls, and sliced lemon. ‘Time to stew the cutlets, about three- quarters of an hour. Veal Cutlets and Tomatoes.—OCut a slice of veal from the fillet half an inch thick, and weighing about a pound. Cut it into six pieces, and dredge a dessert-spoonful of flour upon them. Dissolve three ounces of butter in a stewpan, put in the cutlets, and let thom remain until they are brightly browned on both sides. Put with them a small slice of lean ham cut into dice, one small onion, four large ripe tomatoes, two anchovies cleaned and. VEA ( 1042 ) VEA pounded to paste, the strained juice of half a Jarge lemon, and a little salt, pepper, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. A wine-glassful of sherry or madeira will greatly improve the gravy. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the ingredients as gently as possible till the veal is quite tender. Remember to remove the scum as it rises, and shake the saucepan frequently in order to keep the contents from burning. Time to simmer the veal, one hour and a quarter. Probable cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. per pound. Sufficient for three persons. Veal Cutlets, Bread-crumbed and Broiled.—Divide the best end of a neck of veal into cutlets. Saw off the chine-bone, shorten the rib-bones, trim the cutlets neatly, and flatten them. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt upon them. Brush them over first with clarified butter or oil, then with beaten egg; dip them in bread-crumbs, once more into oil, and then into the bread-crumbs again. Broil over a clear fire of a moderate heat, and turn them that they may be equally cooked on both sides. When they are brightly browned take them up, arrange them on a dish alter- nately with rashers of ham or bacon, and send good gravy, or tomato, or any piquant sauce to table with them. ‘Time to broil the cut- lets, ten to fifteen minutes, according to size. Probable cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets, Broiled (a l'Italienne).— Take the best part of a neck of veal: cut the ribs one by one, flatten them, and pare them nicely, powder over a little salt and pepper, take the yolk of an egg, and with a paste-brush rub the cutlets with part of the egg, then dip them first in the bread-crumbs, then in melted butter, and afterwards in the crumbs of bread again; give them a good form, and broil them on a slow fire, that they may get a fine brown colour. Serve with a brown Italian sauce, Spanish sauce, or gravy. Veal Cutlets, Broiled, Plain.—Divide the best end of a neck of veal into neat cutlets, allowing one bone to each. Trim these neatly, cut away the .chine-bone, shorten the rib- bones, and flatten the cutlets with a cutlet-bat. Sprinkle salt and pepper on both sides, brush them over slightly with oil, and broil on a grid- iron over a clear slow fire till they are nicely browned on both sides. Serve on a hot dish, with a few slices of ham or bacon on a separate dish. Good ‘brown gravy, or tomato or any piquant sauce, may be sent to table with veal cutlets. Time to broil the cutlets, ten to fifteen minutes, according to thickness. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Veal Cutlets, Curried.—Cut one pound of veal from the fillet into’ neat squares con- venient for serving, and free from skin, bone, gristle, or fat. Beat these well,.and dip them twice into beaten egg and bread-crumbs seasoned with curry powder. Fry in a little butter over «a gentle fire, and turn them that they may be equally cooked. Put them into a dish, and pour some good curry sauce round them. Serve very hot. If liked, the cutlets may be broiled instead of being fried, and then they will require only to be brushed over with clarified butter, and to have curry powder sprinkled upon them instead of being dipped into the beaten egg and seasoned bread-crumbs. The curry sauce may be prepared as follows :— Slice two large onions, and steam them in butter in a closely-covered saucepan till they are soft without being at all coloured. Add a sour apple pared, cored, and minced, and replace the sauce- pan upon the fire till this also is tender. Rub the ingredients through a sieve, and mix the pulp with a dessert-spoonful of ground rice, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, and half a pint of stock. Simmer the sauce for twenty minutes, and it will be ready for serving. If this sauce is too pungent, a spoonful of curry paste may be stirred into half a pint of plain gravy made in the pan in which the cutlets were fried. Time to fry the cutlets, twelve to fourteen minutes. Veal Cutlets, Farce of.—Take some cutlets of an even thickness from the best end of a neck of veal, trim them in the usual way, flatten them, and spread over each one a cover- ing of good veal forcemeat. Roll the meat round the bone, put a thin slice of fat bacon over each cutlet, and bind it with twine to prevent the forcemeat escaping. Butter a stew- pan, and place a bed of sliced vegetables—carrot, turnip, onions, and celery—in the bottom. Lay the stuffed cutlets on these, and pour upon them as much stock as will half cover them. Let them simmer as gently as possible till quite tender. Take them up, place them in a circle on a dish, strain the gravy over, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the cutlets, about two hours. Veal Cutlets, Fried.—Take the cutlets from the best end of the neck, and let them be about half an inch thick. Trim them neatly, flatten with a cleaver, and flour well. Fry . them in butter or good dripping until they. are cooked through. When brown on one side turn them upon the other. Pour away the fat, and dissolve a slice of fresh butter in the pan,. stir a dessert-spoonful of flour into this, and when it is quite smooth and brown add very gradually a cupful of boiling gravy which has been made by stewing the trimmings of the veal _ very gently for an hour, or more with a little water, a small roll of lemon-rind, an onion, half a blade of mace, a sprig of parsley and thyme, and a little pepper and salt. This sauce may, if liked, be flavoured with a little lemon- juice or walnut pickle, or with a few mush- rooms. Some people would scarcely care for veal cutlets unless they were accompanied by mushroom sauce. Serve the cutlets on a hot dish with the sauce poured over. A few fried forcemeat balls and some fried: rashers of bacon should be served with them. The veal may be taken from the fillet instead of the neck, and then the meat should be cut into neat round pieces convenient for serving. Time to fry cutlets half an inch thick, about fifteen minutes. Probable cost, from 1s. to 1s. 4d. per pound. Veal Cutlets, Fried (another way).—, Cut a slice of lean veal about the third of an inch thick from the fillet. Divide this into neat cutlets convenient for serving. Prepare < VEA ( 1043 ) VEA some finely-grated bread-crumbs, season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace,. and add a table-spoonful of parsley which has been scalded and finely minced. Fry the cutlets in butter or dripping till they are cooked through and nicely browned, then serve as in the last recipe. Time to fry the cutlets, ten to fifteen minutes. »* “Veal Cutlets, Fried (a la Maintenon).— Cut three or four cutlets from the best end of a neck of veal. Trim them neatly in the usual manner, and fry them in melted butter until they are lightly browned on both sides. Allow them to cool, then cover each one smoothly with good sauce, wrap it in oiled paper, and fold the edges together lightly and securely, that the gravy may not escape. Put the cutlets on an oiled tin into a brisk oven, and allow them to remain until the envelopes are lightly browned; serve very hot. The sauce may be made in the following manner :—Fry gently in one ounce of butter, one ounce of lean ham; add one ounce and a half of flour and half a pint of stock, then stir the sauce till it boils. Put in four button mushrooms. Skim away the fat, and when the mixture is very thick and smooth stir in off the fire four egg-yolks. When cool the sauce isready for use. Time to simmer the cutlets in the fat, one hour. Probable cost, 1s. to 1s, 2d. per pound, Veal Cutlets, Gravy for.—Put the bones'and trimmings of the veal into a sauce- pan, barely cover them with cold water, and. add (for a-pint of water) a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme or marjoram, a small roll of thin lemon-rind, half a' blade of mace, and a little pepper. -A little bacon-rind may be added if-it is at hand. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the stock gently till it is strong and nicely flavoured. Strain it, thicken with brown thickening, and let it simmer by the side of the fire till it has thrown up the grease. If the cutlets have been fried, lift them from the. pan, and pour away the fat, leaving the brown ' gravy at the bottom. Pour the thickened sauce upon this gravy, stir well, boil it a few minutes, add a little salt if required, and then strain it over the meat. ' A few spoonfuls of cream may be added to the gravy if liked. Time, one hour to simmer the trimmings of veal. Veal Cutlets, Larded.— Take some cutlets of an equal thickness from the best end of’a. neck of veal. Trim these neatly, flatten them with a cutlet-bat, and lard the lean part with thin strips of fat bacon, with which, for a superlative dish, strips of red tongue and black truffle may be intermixed. Put the'cutlets into a saucepan, and barely cover them with nicely- flavoured stock to which a glassful of light wine has been added. Cover the saucepan closely, and let the cutlets simmer gently until they are quitetender. Drain the gravy from them, and press them between two dishes with a weight upon them till they are cold. Strain the gravy, free it from fat, and boil quickly till it is considerably reduced. When the cutlets are to be served, heat them in the oven, dish them in acircle, pour the gravy over them, and place | French beans, or mushrooms, turnip, sorrel, or endive purée in the centre. Time to stew the cutlets, according to thickness. Probable cost, 1s. to 1s. 2d. per pound. Veal Cutlets Larded and Served Cold (Superlative) —Take six or cight thick veal cutlets, and prepare them as in the last recipe. Put them between two dishes, and press them till cold; then trim them ‘neatly, and brush them over twice with liquid glaze. Serve on a dish, and garnish with aspic jelly and Montpellier butter. They will have a good appearance arranged as follows :—Boil some rice in water till it is tender and quite dry, theri pound it, and press it into a flat round mould. When it is cold and stiff turn it out, lace it in the centre of a dish, cover with ontpellier butter, arrange the cutlets round it with the bones inward, and put a little chopped aspic jelly between each one. Ornament the top of the rice with Montpellier butter and aspic jelly, fill the bottom of the dish with chopped aspic, and serve. . Veal Cutlets made from Cold Dressed Veal.—Take a pound and a half of cold veal free from skin or gristle, and half a pound of lean ham or tongue. Mince the meat finely, pound it in a mortar, season with salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg, and add a tea- spoonful of mustard, a tea-spoonful of anchovy, two table-spoonfuls of strong veal gravy, the grated rind and juice of a small lemon, and a quarter of a pound of clarified butter. Half a cupful: of rice boiled: in milk till soft and pounded may’be added if liked, and a little yolk of egg may be used to bind the mixture together. Form the paste into cutlets; dip these into clarified butter, dredge flour upon them, and egg and bread-crumb them twice. Fry them in hot fat, or bake them in a brisk oven, basting them two or three times whilst they are there. Send tartar sauce or any other piquant sauce to table with them. A little good stock thickened with brown thickening, and flavoured with lemon-juice or lemon pickle, ‘will answer the purpose, when the ingredients for tartar sauce cannot be procured. Time to fry the cutlets, eight to ten minutes; to bake them, about a quarter of an hour. Veal Cutlets, Roasted (41a Maintenon). —Take a cutlet of veal from the fillet. : Cut it into neat pieces, and flatten these with a cutlet- bat. Spread upon them a little good veal force- meat, cover with thin slices of fat bacon, and put them on a skewer. Cover them evenly with oiled paper, and roast before a clear fire. Send piquant sauce to table with them. Veal Cutlets, Russian Mode of Dressing.—Make a little Russian sauce in a quantity sufficient to coat the cutlets upon one side only to the thickness of half an inch. This sauce may be made in the following pro- portions. Dissolve an ounce of butter ina small saucepan, and put with it a stick of horseradish grated, a finely-minced shallot, a pinch of powdered herbs, a spoonful of grated ham, a table-spoonful of vinegar, a table-spoon- ful of sherry, a small lump of sugar, and a little pepper and salt. Cover the saucepan VEA ( 1044 ) VEA closely, and let its contents simmer gently over a slow fire till the flavour of the ingredients is extracted. Add a quarter of a pint of rich white sauce, and add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken, then strain it off for use. Trim the cutlets, flatten them with a cutlet- bat, and fry on both sides to a light brown. They will require about twelve minutes. Let them get cold, then spread a coating of the Russian sauce upon one side of each. Brush them over with egg, and sprinkle upon them fried bread-crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan. Place them side by side in a single layer ina buttered baking-dish, and a few minutes before they are to be served heat them in a brisk oven. Dish them in a circle on a hot dish, pour a little tomato sauce into the centre, and serve very hot. Any kind of dressed vegetable may be served as an accompaniment, Time to heat the cutlets, about ten minutes. Veal Cutlets, Stewed.—Cut a piece of the fillet into three parts, and trim from them all the skin. Stew all the trimmings with carrot and onions to make a light gravy, then add a little broth or warm water ; add spice if approved, put in the pieces of veal, and stew them for two hours. Thicken the gravy, and pour it over the cutlets. Veal Cutlets, with Maitre d’Hotel Butter.—For one pound of cutlets prepare maitre d’hotel butter as follows :_-Wash and pick a bunch of parsley, chop small, wrap it in the corner of a cloth, dip it in cold spring water, and wring the moisture from it. Put it into a basin with its bulk in fresh butter, a few drops of strained lemon-juice, and a little pepper and salt. Work it with the point of a knife till the butter is like cream, and be very careful to keep the butter in a cool place, for if melted it will be oily. Trim and broil some veal cutlets in the usual way (see Veal Cutlets, Broiled, Plain). Put the butter on a dish, place the cutlets upon it, and serve very hot. Veal Cutlets, with Mushrooms.— Take a slice or more of veal for cutlets from the fillet, and for every pound of veal allow a handful of mushrooms. Cleanse and trim them, and put them into a saucepan with a table- spoonful of lemon-juice, a table-spoonful of water, and a pinch of salt for one pound of mushrooms. Shake them in the liquor for a few minutes, then add a slice of fresh butter, put them on a clear fire, and let them re- main for five minutes, shaking the saucepan occasionally. Turn them into a dish, cover closely, and leave them till wanted. Divide the veal into neat cutlets of a round or heart shape. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt upon them, and either dredge them with flour or egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them in butter or fat till they are equally and brightly browned. Put them on a plate, and keep them hot. Drain off half the fat in the pan, and mix a table-spoonful of flour smoothly with the remainder. Moisten gradually with a small tea-cupful of boiling stock or water, add the prepared mushrooms and a, table-spoonful of ketchup. Let the sauce boil gently for three or four minutes. Put the fried cutlets on a dish alternately with slices of fried bacon or ham; place the mushrooms round, pour the sauce over all, and serve. Time to fry the cutlets, twelve to fifteen minutes. Veal Cutlets with Sorrel. — Take some cutlets of an even thickness from the best end of a neck of veal, trim them in the usual way, and fry in a little butter till they are lightly browned on both sides. Drain them, put them into a stewpan, pour over as much nicely-flavoured veal gravy as will cover them, and let them simmer gently till done enough. A glassful of light wine may be added if liked. Dish the cutlets in a circle, put some sorrel purée into the centre of the dish, and serve the cutlets with the gravy in which they were stewed inatureen. The purée may be prepared as follows :—Wash a peck of fresh green sorrel in plenty of water, and put it into a stewpan with a pint of water and a pinch of salt. Stir it over the fire for a quarter of an hour or until dissolved, then drain the water from it. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and mix two ounces of flour smoothly with it. Stir it over the fire for three minutes. Moisten with a pint of gravy, add the sorrel and a little pepper and salt, and stir the mixture over the fire for twenty minutes. Rub it through a hair sieve, make the purée hot, and it will be ready for use. ' Veal Cutlets without Bone (London fashion). — Properly speaking, these cutlets ought to be made from the fleshy part of the neck, which has been taken out whole so as to form a sausage-shaped roll, and then .cut in slices the third of an inch thick. Those who object to this may use a cutlet taken from the fillet instead. Divide the meat into neat slices. Brush them over with egg, sprinkle finely- grated and savoury bread-crumbs upon them, or, if preferred, omit the egg and bread-crumbs, and simply dredge flour upon them, and fry them in butter or lard till they are lightly browned on both sides. Toast separately as many slices of bacon as there are cutlets. Arrange the cutlets and the bacon alternately in a circle round a hot dish, and pour into the centre a sauce prepared as follows:—Put a quarter of a pint of brown sauce into a sauce- pan. Let it boil, then stir into it a table-spoon- ful of ketchup, a glassful of sherry or madeira, the strained juice of half a lemon, and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce over the fire for a minute, and it will be ready for serving. When brown thickening is not at hand a little may be made by kneading together equal pro- portions of butter and flour, then stirring the paste quickly over a slow fire for three minutes, and moistening it with stock. If preferred, good brown mushroom sauce may be used in- stead, Time to fry the cutlets, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. to 1s, 2d. per pound. Veal, Fillet of.—The fillet is one of the prime joints of veal. It is taken from the leg above the knuckle. The French divide it into three parts—the fat fleshy piece inside the | thigh to which the udder is attached in a cow- VEA (1045 ) VEA calf—and of which fricandeau is made, the under noix used for forcemeat, pies, &c., and the centre noix for sauce, &c. As veal becomes ‘tainted very quickly, the udder should be examined and wiped dry every day, and the kernel should be removed from the fat. The most usual mode of dressing a fillet of veal is to stuff and roast it, though it can be either boiled or braised. Probable cost, 1s. 1d. per pound. _Ve Fillet of (au béchamel— second dressing).—The remains of a dressed fillet of veal may be served in thisway. Cut portion of meat from the centre of the veal, leaving a goodly portion untouched from which slices may be cut. Trim the joint, fill up any cracks or cuts there may be in it with forcemeat, and bind it securely. Put it into the oven for an hour or more till it is heated throughout, and be careful to baste liberally for fear it should be dry. Meanwhile mince finely the veal that was taken from the fillet, mix a little forcemeat with it, and stir into it as much good white sauce as will moisten it well. Put this mince into the hollow in the fillet, cover with finely- grated bread-crumbs, and drop a little clarified butter upon the crumbs. Place the veal again in the oven till the crumbs are brightly browned, and serve the veal on a hot dish, with béchamel or good white sauce round it. Time, one hour and a half. Veal, Fillet of, Boiled.—Take a small and white fillet of veal for this purpose. Re- move the bone, fill its space with good veal forcemeat, and bind the veal securely with tape. Put a few skewers at the bottom of the stew- pan to keep the veal from sticking ; lay it on these, and pour over it as much cold weak stock, milk and water, or even water only, as will barely cover it. Let it heat slowly and sim- mer very gently indeed until it is done enough. The more gently it is simmered the better it will be. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. When done enough, take it up, put it on a hot dish, garnish with Jemon, and send oyster, celery, or white sauce to table with it; or a sauce made by thickening a little of the stockin which it was boiled with white thickening, seasoning with salt, pepper, and mace, and flavouring with lemon-juice and sherry. A boiled tongue should accompany this dish, which if served alone is in danger of being considered insipid. Time to simmer a fillet of veal weighing six pounds, three hours. Probable cost, 1s. 1d. per pound. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Veal, Fillet of, Boiled (another way).— Remove the bone, and fill the centre with stuffing similar to that used for boiled turkey. Allow twenty minutes to the pound, and twenty minutes over, for the boiling of this joint. After the water boils, skim carefully, and let it only simmer, keeping the meat covered by adding hot water, or it will become brown. The beauty of this dish depends on delicacy in the colour of the meat. A sauce must be formed by taking out a pint of the broth which has been made in boiling; this must be thickened with good cream, butter, and flour, and flavoured with mushroom ketchup, and mushroom powder or button mushrooms. If cream be not at hand for thickening the broth, a sauce may be made by mingling the yolks of two eggs with flour, butter, and broth. Veal, Fillet of (French way).— Trim, stuff, and truss a fillet of veal as directed for Veal, Fillet of, Roasted. If liked, the surface and the sides of the fillet may be larded with strips of fat bacon. Cover the bottom of a stewpan with sliced vegetables and with thin slices of bacon or ham. Lay the veal on this, moisten with a pint of stock or water, lay slices of bacon upon it, cover closely, and if possible put live embers on the lid of the pan, and let it braise very gently over a slow fire till tender. Baste frequently with the gravy. Take it up, drain it, and put it in the oven. Strain the sauce, and boil quickly for a few minutes; then baste the meat with it till it looks bright and glossy. Serve on a hot dish, and send any kind of dressed vegetable to table with it, together with brown Italian or tomato sauce as an accompaniment. If liked, the gravy in which it was stewed may be simply strained and thickened with brown thickening, then flavoured with pepper, lemon-juice, and light wine; and to enrich it oysters or stewed mushrooms may be added. Time to stew the veal, at least half an hour to each pound. Probable cost, veal, 1s. 1d. per pound. Veal, Fillet of, Roasted.—Have the fillet cut to the size required. Remove the bone, and fill the cavity with good veal force- meat (see Veal Forcemeat). Cut the flap slightly, and lay forcemeat under it. Draw the flap round, skewer the veal, bind it firmly into a round shape, skewer the skin which has been sent with the veal over the forcemeat and the fat, flour the fillet, and put it down at some dis- tance from the fire, then draw it gradually nearer till done enough, and baste frequently. Let the outside be well browned, though it must not be burnt. Remove the skin, skewers, and tape, and put the veal on a hot dish. Pour melted butter coloured with browning or some good veal gravy (see Veal, Gravy for) round it, and garnish with sliced lemon. A pig’s cheek, a boiled tongue, or small pieces of bacon or ham should be served with roast veal It is always well to prepare plenty of stuffing, so that it may be used to flavour a mince if the remains of the veal are served in that form. As it is a little difficult to keep the stuffing in the veal when it is roasted before the fire, many cooks prefer to bake it in a moderate oven. When this plan is adopted the veal must be basted frequently. The veal should be roasted slowly, or the outside will be burnt before the meat is done through, and underdone veal is most unwholesome. Time to roast the veal, twenty-eight minutes to the pound; half an hour to the pound in frosty weather. Probable cost, 1s. 1d. per pound. Veal, Fillet of, Roasted (another way). —tThe fillet of veul is most commonly roasted, being previously stuffed either in the flap or in the space in the centre from which the bone was taken. Veal, being a dry meat, requires constant basting either with butter, beef drip- ping, or suet. It must be roasted thoroughly VEA ( 1046 ) VEA (underdone veal being neither wholesome nor agredable), and of anice brown. When dished, half a pint of melted butter, sometimes mixed witha brown gravy, is poured over it. Curry sauce in a tureen may also be served with it. Bacon, or fried pork sausage-balls, with greens are among the accompaniments of roasted veal. Veal, Fillet of, with Oysters or Mushrooms. — Remove the bone from a fillet of veal, and, without stuffing it, bind it very tightly with tape, so that there may be no hollow left in the centre. Roast in the usual way.’ Whilst it is before the fire, take about two dozen oysters, and scald them in their liquor. Beard them, and simmer the beards in about half a pint of good veal stock. Strain the sauce, add to it the oyster liquor and an equal quantity of cream or milk, and boil with a small piece of white thickening, together with a few drops of anchovy and a little cayenne, nutmeg, and lemon-juice. Take ‘up the veal, quickly cut out. about a pound from the centre, and keep the meat hot in the oven. Mince the slice which has been cut out finely with the oysters, put them into the sauce, and pour the whole into the cavity in the veal. Serve very hot. If liked, mushrooms stewed in butter may be substituted for the oysters. Veal Forcemeat.—No. 1. Shred finely half a pound of suet, free from skin and fibre. Mix with it half a pound of bread-crumbs crib- bled through a colander, the rind of half a small lemon grated, one tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of white pepper, a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of thyme, a tea-spoonful of marjoram, two small blades of mace pounded. Bind the mixture together with yolk of egg to which a little milk may be added when economy is a consideration. No. 2. Chop finely a quarter of a pound of beef suet with two ounces of lean raw ham and five ounces of bread-crumbs rubbed through a colander, Add a piece of thin lemon-rind about the size of a thumb-nail, a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a tea-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs if fresh—if very dry, two tea-spoonfuls— and half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a little cayenne or white pepper. Bind the mixture together with two whole eggs. No. 3. Take half a pound of veal, and a quarter of a pound | of fat bacon. Cut these into strips, and scrape them with the back of a knife, then pound them well in a mortar, and pass the preparation through a sieve. Mix with it the crumb of half a roll, half a drachm of powdered mace, the same quantity of grated nutmeg, a dessert- spoonful of chopped onions, parsley, and mush- rooms, with a little pepper and salt. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, continually pounding them in the mortar, bind them together with two well-beaten eggs, and poach a small quantity in boiling water. When the pre- paration is firm, light, and delicately flavoured it will be ready for use. This forcemeat may be used on all occasions, for pies, balls, &c. When forcemeat is to be served in the form of balls, mould it to the size and shape of large marbles, put these into hot fat over the fire, and turn them about for a few minutes till they are lightly browned. Place them on a sheet of blotting paper before the fire to drain off the fat. When dry they are ready for serving. Veal Forcemeat, Roll of.— Take a pound of lean veal from the fillet, three ounces of fat bacon, and two ouncesof lean ham. Cut the meat in long slices, scrape with.a knife, and pound it in a mortar. Mix with it one ounce of finely-grated bread-crumbs, a dessert- spoonful of baked flour, the grated rind of half a small lemon, half a shallot finely minced, a pinch of grated nutmeg, anda little pepper. ‘Add the yolks of three and the whites of two eggs beaten up with two table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Mould the mixture to the shape of a roll. Brush over with the white of the egg which was left untouched, dredge baked flour upon it, roll it in well-oiled paper, tie it in a cloth, and steam over fast-boiling water till done enough. Turn the roll upon a hot dish, pour a little nicely-flavoured brown sauce over, and serve very hot. Time to steam the roll, two hours. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Suf- ficient for three or four persons. Veal, Fricandeau of.—For this dish— a segment of veal, larded and stewed, with bacon, sliced vegetables, sweet herbs, and sea- sonings—we are indebted to the age of Leo X. Its inventor was Jean de Caréme (John of Lent), who received the nickname in conse- quence of a celebrated sowpe maigre which he made for the Pope, his master. He was the direct ancestor of the famous Caréme, who was FRICLANDEAU OF VEAL. i a é cook first to George IV., and afterwards to ' Baron Rothschild. Leo X., luxurious and mag- nificent in his tastes, was far from narrow- minded in his patronage of merit. He fostered the genius of Raphael, the painter, and en- couraged. also the genius which could discover a fricandeau. The following recipe will be found excellent :—Take about three pounds of the fat, fleshy side of a fillet of veal, of the best quality, or a slice about four inches thick. With one stroke of the knife cut it even, trim it into an oblong or oval shape, then lard thickly and evenly with thin strips of fat bacon. Slice two carrots, two turnips, and two onions, and put these into the centre of a stew- pan with two or three slices of bacon, the trimmings of the meat, a bunch of sweet herbs, two bay-leaves, and a little salt and white pepper. Put the fricandeau on the vegetables, and pour in about a pint of stock, or as much as will cover the bacon without touching the veal, Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents come slowly to the boil, then stew very gently by the side of the fire till the meat is quite tender. Baste frequently with its VEA ( 1047 ) VEA liquor. A short time before it is to be served take it up and put it into a woell-heated oven to crisp the bacon. Strain the gravy, skim the fat from it, boil quickly to glaze, and baste the fricandeau with it till it looks bright and glossy. Serve with'the larded surface upper- most, in the centre of a purée of any vegetables that are in season—sorrel, spinach, endive, as- paragus, peas, &c. If liked, the gravy may be simply strained, skimmed, and poured over the meat, and then the dish is fricandeau with gravy. Sometimes as a matter of economy the Jean part of the best end of a large neck of veal is used instead of the prime part of the leg, and does nearly as well. Trufiles, mushrooms, and artichoke bottoms may all be served with this dish. Time to stew the fricandeau, about two hours and a half. Probable cost, -veai, Is. 1d. per pound. Veal, Fricandelles of.—Take a pound of lean veal from the fillet, and mince it finely with half its weight in suet freed from skin and fibre. Soak four rusks in milk, then press the moisture thoroughly from them, and mix them with the minced meat. Season and flavour the preparation with pepper, salt, grated nut- meg, and finely-minced lemon-rind. A little onion or shallot may be added, if liked. Bind together with the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs. Divide it into three portions, and form these into balls. Drop them into fast- boilmg water, and let them remain for four minutes. Take them up, drain them, dip them into egg and bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat till they are nicely browned. Make some gravy with the bones and trimmings of the veal. Flavour this nicely, and thicken with brown thickening. Stew the balls in this gravy a short time before they are to be served, put them on a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and garnish with slices of lemon. Time to stew the fricandelles, half an hour. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for three or four per- sons. Veal, Fricandelles of (another way). —Prepare the fricandelle mixture as in. the last recipe. Put it into a buttered dish which it will half fill, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. When the surface is lightly brown, pour over it a little gravy, stock, or milk, and Jet it bake twenty minutes longer. Pour off the gravy which swims on the top, mix with it the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, again pour it upon the mince, place it in the oven for a few minutes, and serve. Veal, Fricassee of. —Take two pounds, or more if required, of lean veal free from skin and bone. Cut this into small thick pieces convenient for serving, and fry them in hot butter until the flesh is firm without having acquired any colour. Dredge a table-spoonful of flour upon them, add a small strip of thin Jemon-rind, and gradually as much boiling white stock as will cover the meat. Let it simmer very gently till tender. Take out the lemon- tind, flavour the gravy with salt, cayenne, and ‘pounded mace, and mix with it a quarter of a pint of boiling cream. Beat the yolks of two’ eggs in a bowl, add gradually a little of the sauce (first allowing it to cool for a minute or two), then add it carefully to the remainder. Let the saucepan remain near the fire for three or four minutes till the eggs are set, add the strained juice of half a lemon, and serve im- mediately. A few fried rashers of-bacon should be served with this dish. A pint of stewed mushrooms may be served with it or not. The remains of dressed veal may be served in this way. ‘Time, about half an hour to simmer the veal. Probable cost, veal, 1s. 1d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Veal, Fricassee of (a German recipe).— This is a dish for spring-time. Cut up a breast of veal, stew it till tender in water flavoured with a little salt, bay-leaves, and a bunch of mixed herbs. Boil a dozen crayfish, pick. out the meat, and set it aside; stew the shells when pounded in two ounces of butter, and strain them. Make the crayfish, with the exception of the tails, into balls with an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, two eggs, half the crayfish butter, and a little spice. Next boil some aspa- ragus or cauliflower till tender. Make a sauce of two ounces of butter beaten to cream; to which add the yolks of two or three eggs beaten up, two spoonfuls of flour, the rest of the cray- fish butter, and as much of the liquor in which the vegetables were boiled, or broth, as will make it a thin sauce. Now put the meat, the vegetables, and tails into the sauce, together with the balls; let all simmer for ten minutes ; then take out the meat,. boil the sauce a.few minutes longer, and pour it over. Be careful to arrange the vegetables, fish, and balls with taste. ; - . . Veal, Fricassee of (another way).—Cut two pounds of veal into neat, pieces free from skin, bone, or fat, Melt a slice of butter ina sauté-pan, put in the veal, and cook it very gently for five minutes, being specially careful that it does not acquire any colour. Pour on as much stock or milk and stock as will cover the veal, and simmer gently for about twenty minutes, or until quite tender. Flavour with mace, salt, and white pepper, and add half an inch of lemon-rind if hked. Thicken the sauce with corn-flour, and add a quarter of a pint of good cream, then take the sauce off the fire, and let it cool. Beat the yolks of two eggs. Mix a little of the sauce with them, add them gradually to the rest, and shake the pan over the fire fora minute or two. Serve the prepara- tion on a hot dish, and garnish with slices of lemon. ‘Time, three-quarters of an hour. Veal, Gateau of—No. 1. Take the re- mains of a roast fillet of veal and the ham that has been served with it, and cut them into neat thin slices. Line an earthenware mould with thin slices of fat bacon, and fill it with layers of ham and veal, intermixed with slices of hard- boiled yolk of eggs. Sprinkle over each layer a seasoning of salt, white pepper, and finely- shred parsley, with a few trufiles cut up small, if they can be had conveniently. Pour clari- fied butter over all, then tie three or four folds of paper tightly over the top of the mould. Bake in a moderate oven, and turn it out in a shape when cold. Time to bake, one hour. No. 2. Mince finely two pounds of calf's liver with-six ounces of fat bacon and a small onion. VEA ( 1018 ) VEA Dissolve a slice of butter in a stewpan, put in the onion and bacon, and when the latter begins to soften, put in the liver with a seasoning of pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir the mixture over the fire till the liver loses its red appearance, turn it out to cool, and beat it to a paste. Add four well-beaten eggs with a few stewed mushrooms or truffles cut into pieces, if these are to be had. Line a basin with thin slices of fat bacon, put in the mince, and cover ihe top with bacon. Cover the basin closely, and bake the mince in the oven, or gently steam it over hot water till a skewer will pierce it easily. Let it remain till cold, trim neatly, and serve cut into slices. Veal, Godiveau (a kind of forcemeat).— Take a quarter of a pound of lean veal free from skin and sinew and an equal weight of good beef suet. Mince these very finely. Add a small bunch of parsley and a few chives chopped small, together with a seasoning of pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Pound the ingredients in a mortar till they form a smooth, firm paste, and place this on ice for an hour. Put it again into the mortar with three ounces of pure ice, and pound it till it looks soft and creamy. Roll it on the table with flour, divide it into small round balls about the size of marbles, and bake these on a baking-sheet in a moderately-heated oven. Time to bake the balls, five minutes. Veal, Goose.—This very savoury dish, which is a favourite with many, may be made of breast of veal after the tendons or bones have been removed, or of the upper part of the flank of the loin, or of the skin of the best end of the neck which has been pared off with about an inch and a half of the flesh adhering to it. Lay the meat upon a table, cover with sage and onion stuffing, such as is used for goose; then roll it, bind securely with tape, and roast before a clear fire. When done enough place it upon a hot dish, and send good brown gravy and apple sauce to table with it. Veal Gravy, Endive with.—Wash and clean twelve heads of endive, and beware of the worms which generally are found in the heart. After having taken off all the green part of the leaves, wash the endive again in two or three different waters, and blanch them to take off the bitter taste. Then throw them into cold water, and when quite cold squeeze them till there is no water left in them, then chop them very fine. Next stew them in a quantity of gravy sufficient to cover them entirely, to which add a little salt and a very small lump of sugar to cover the bitter tart taste of the endive. Ascertain if they are done enough by squeezing a bit between two fingers; if very tender they are done. Then add two spoonfuls of Spanish sauce reduced, and use them either for entremets under poached eggs or for entrées, such as minces of mutton, fricandeaux, sweetbreads, fillets of fowl, &e. Veal, Gravy for.—Take the bones and trimmings of the veal, and if the bones are large break them into small pieces. Put them into a saucepan, and pour over them as much cold watzr as will cover them. Supposing there is a quart of water, add:a bunch of parsley, two sprigs of thyme or marjoram, a quarter of the rind of a lemon thinly pared, a blade of mace, a pinch of pepper, and a few strip. of bacon-rind if they are at hand. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the liquor gently till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, pour it into a bowl, and when cold remove the fat from the top. When wanted, thicken with a little brown thickening, and let it remain at the side of the fire till it has thrown up the fat. If brown thickening is not at hand, mix two table-spoonfuls of flour smoothly with a little cold water and a slice of butter, boil this with the stock, and add a little sugar-browning. Pour the fat from the pan under the veal, leaving the brown gravy untouched. Stir the sauce into the pan, dissolve a small lump of sugar in it, add a little salt, boil it wp once more, and serve very hot. A little boiling cream may be added if liked. Time, one to two hours to simmer the stock. Veal, Grenadin of.—Prepare an equal number of neat pieces of lean veal seasoned with pepper, salt, and pounded mace, and of slices of good bacon, together with a portion of good forcemeat. ‘Line a small dish with a veal caul, and be careful to leave as much of the skin hanging over the sides as will cover the meat entirely. Fill the dish with alternate layers of bacon, veal, and forcemeat, and let bacon form the undermost and uppermost layers. Minced mushrooms and savoury herbs may be added or not. Fasten the caul over the meat, tie three or four folds of paper over the dish, and bake the grenadin in a moderately-heated oven. Turn it upon a dish, and send plenty of good brown gravy to table with it. Time to bakea small dish, about an hour. Veal, Grenadins of.—Take a slice of veal from the fillet about an inch in thickness, and divide it into neat round pieces; or if pre- ferred the round piece of lean cut out of five or six chops from the best end of a neck or loin of veal may be used. Flatten the collops, and lard them on one side only very thickly with strips of fat bacon. Put the bones and trim- mings of the veal intoa stewpan with a pint and ahalf of cold water, a carrot, a turnip, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, a sprig of marjoram, an ounce of lean ham, a small lump of sugar, half a tea-spoonful of unmixed mustard, and a little salt and white pepper. Let the sauce boil till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Skim frequently, and when it is done enough strain, let it get cold, and then remove the cake of fat from the top. Rub the bottom of a bright stewpan quickly across with garlic, dissolve a thick slice of fresh butter in it, lay in the pieces of veal, the larded side uppermost, and let them remain until they are lightly browned. Pour in as much of the strained gravy as will just touch without covering the larding, and let the veal simmer gently till done enough. Skim the avy, and baste the veal with the liquor equently. Take out the veal, and put into the gravy a pint of young freshly-shelled green peas, with a small lump of white sugar. Leave the lid off the pan, and let the peas boil VEA ( 1043 ) VEA for five minutes, then put in the veal, and let | _it simmer till the peas are done enough. Put the peas on a dish, place the collops with the larding uppermost upon them, pour the gravy over all, and serve. If preferred, instead of green peas being used, the veal may be dished upon a purée of mushrooms, dressed sorrel, or endive. Some cooks, instead of making the grenadins of uniform size, cut one large one to place in the centre, and form the rest of the ‘meat into diamonds, to be arranged round it. Time, two hours to simmer the grenadins. Veal, Haricot.—Take the best end of a small neck of veal. Shorten the bones, and either divide the meat into cutlets, or leave it whole. Put it into a stewpan, pour over ita pint of good brown gravy, and let it simmer gently until three parts dressed. Boil in stock in a separate saucepan a pint of freshly- gathered and shelled young peas, half a pint of carrots and turnips cut into shapes, a small cauliflower, half a dozen young onions, a sliced. cucumber, a cabbage lettuce cut into quarters, a pound or two of young onions, or any suitable - vegetables. “When these are nearly tender, add -a little salt and cayenne. Shortly before the haricot is to be served, put the vegetables with the veal, and let all simmer gently together for ten minutes. Put the veal on a dish, arrange the vegetables round it, and garnish with forcemeat balls. Send fried bacon to table on a separate dish. If more convenient, some of these vegetables may be omitted, and when boiling the vegetables it should be remembered that some kinds will need to boil longer than others, according to their nature and age. The appearance of the veal will be improved if it is brightly browned before being stewed, and a little acid will im- prove its flavour for many. Time to simmer the veal alone, about half an hour. Probable cost, veal, 1s. per pound. Veal, Hashed.—Any joint of veal not over-dressed may be hashed, and will be found excellent. Cut the meat into neat slices free from skin and gristle. Cover these, and put them aside till wanted. Slice two onions, and fry them in butter, dredge a little flour upon them, pour over them half a pint of stock or water, and add a small bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg, a quarter of a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind, and a little saltand white pepper. Let all sim- mer for a few minutes till the liquor is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain the gravy, put the veal into it, let it simmer till it is hot without allowing it to boil, then serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sippets. Tones altogether, about three-quarters of an our. Veal Imitation of Mock Turtle.— Put three or four pounds of knuckle of veal into an earthenware pan with two calf’s feet, +wo onions, each one stuck with two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, half a dozen allspice, and half a tea-spoonful of peppercorns. Cover the ingredients with cold water, tie several folds of paper over the jar, put it in a well-heated oven, and let it remain until the meat is quite tender. Take it up, and let it get cold. Remove the cake of fat from the top of the jelly, and cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, free from bone or skin. Put these into a stewpan with the jellied stock, a large spoonful of ketchup, and whatever seasoning is required. Let the preparation become quite hot, then add 4 dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, and serve with forcemeat balls and hard-boiled eggs. If more convenient, cow heels may be used instead of calf’s feet. Time to bake the meat, three to four hours. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for eight or nine persons. Veal in Jelly (a breakfast or luncheon dish).—Take two pounds of lean veal from the breast or fillet. Cut the veal into pieces an inch square and the ham into thin slices. Line a stewpan with thin slices of fat bacon, put in the veal, and add « calf’s foot, the veal bones broken up small, two onions, two carrots, a parsnip, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a blade of mace, two inches of lemon-rind, and a little pepper and salt. Pour a pint of veal stock or water into the bottom of the pan, let the liquor boil, skim carefully, and let it simmer as gently as possible till the meat is tender. Take up the veal, and arrange it neatly in a mould. Strain the gravy through a jelly-bag, boil quickly for a few minutes, then pour it over the meat, and turn it out when cold. Veal in Jelly (another way).—Take the bones from a breast or fillet of veal, and cut it in slices an inch thick and the size and shape of the mould in which it is to be baked. Sprinkle each slice with a savoury powder made by mixing two tea-spoonfuls of salt with one tea- spoonful of white pepper, and one tea-spoonful of powdered mace. Pour a tea-cupful of veal stock or water in the bottom of the mould, and fill it with alternate layers of veal and thin slices of ham: let veal form the under- most and uppermost layers. Press the meat down tightly with a plate or dish a trifle smaller than the top of the mould, so that the gravy may run into it. Place a weight on the dish, and put it in a moderate oven till the veal is tender. Take itout, and let the weight remain upon it till it is cold. Put the bones and trim- mings of the veal into a saucepan with a hand- ful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two blades of mace, two square inches of thin lemon-rind, half a salt-spoonful of peppercorns, and two quarts of water. Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, then simmer gently for three hours. Strain it, let it get cold, and clear it from fat. It ought to form a stiff jelly, but if not sufficiently firm it should either be boiled.a little longer or it should have a little isinglass or gelatine dissolved in it. Mix a pint of this jelly with the gravy that flowed into the saucer which was laid upon the meat, add a table- spoonful of ketchup, and pour the liquor over the veal. Let it get cold and stiff, then turn it out in a shape upon a dish, and garnish with parsley. Cut it in slices when serving. The gravy should of course be made the day before it is wanted. Time to bake the veal, three hours. Probable cost, veal, 1s. Id. per pound. Veal, Italian —Take half a pound of uncooked veal perfectly free from skin and fat, VEA ( 1050 ) VEA pound it in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of fat previously boiled, oras much fat bacon, also boiled. Boil in milk a French roll with an onion, a bay-leaf, a small pinch of cayenne, white pepper, and salt. Drain off the milk, remove the bay-leaf, and beat thé pounded veal and bread through a coarse sieve. Mix in a beaten egg, and make into rolls with a little flour. Boil these in separate floured cloths, and serve turned out on a dish, with gravy, white or brown, and a little lemon-juice. Time, ten or twelve minutes to boil. Probable cost, about 1s. Veal, Jugged.—Take from two to three pounds of lean veal, cut it into neat slices convenient for serving, and season with salt, cayenne, and powdered mace. Put the slices into an earthen jar, pour over them half a pint of strong stock, and add a small bunch of sweet herbs and a rollofthin lemon-rind. Cover the jar closely by tying over it two or three folds of paper. Put it in a dripping-tin three-parts filled with boiling water, and place it in a moderately-heated oven. Let it remain till the meat is tender. Take it out, remove the herbs and the lemon-rind; thicken the gravy with a little brown thickening, add the strained juice of half a lemon, and serve the meat ona hot dish with the gravy poured over it. Time to stew the meat, two hours and a half to three hours. Probable cost, 28. 10d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Veal, Jugged (another way).—Cut some slices of veal, and put them into an earthen jug with a blade of mace, a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg, a sprig of sweet herbs, and a bit of lemon-peel. Cover the jug closely, that the steam may not get out; set itin a pot of boiling water, and about three hours will do the meat. About half an hour before it is done, putin a bit of butter rolled in flour, and a little lemon-juice or lemon pickle. Turn it out of the jug into a dish; take out the herbs and lemon-peel, and |. send it to table garnished with lemon. Veal, Kebobbed.—Cut some lean veal into thin slices about an inch and a half in diameter, and not more than w quarter of an inch thick, and season each one of these with pepper, salt, powdered mace, and a little tur- meric. Fasten them alternately with thin slices of onion and slices of pickled pork upon small skewers. Fry them in butter till they are suf- ficiently cooked, or fasten the skewers to a spit, and roast the meat before a clear fire, basting liberally during the process; drain them, and serve on a hot dish garnished with fried parsley. If liked, after the veal is fried it may be stewed in good curry gravy flavoured with Jemon-juice, and served with dry rice. Veal Kernels.—There are ten kernels in each calf—four in each leg, and one in each shoulder. Those in the shoulders are considered much the best. French cooks trim, cook, and press these as directed for Tendons of Veal, and serve them in a circle on a dish, with a purée of vegetables in the: centre. Kernels are very variable in price: they are .cheapest in March, April, and May. About a dozen aze required for a dish, Veal Kidney.—A veal kidney should not properly be separated from the loin, but should be roasted and served with it. If wished, however, it may be cut-off, and may then be served with stews of veal, or minced and made into forcemeat, and served on fried bread, or it may be broiled or fried like a sheep’s kidney. Veal Kidney (la maitre d’hdtel).—Cut a veal kidney in half lengthwise. Season the pieces with salt and pepper, dip them in clari- fied butter, and afterwards in bread-crumbs, and broil until sufficiently cooked. Put two ounces of fresh butter on a plate, and with the point of a knife work well into it a dessert- spoonful of finely-minced parsley, a pinch of salt, another of pepper, and four or five drops of strained lemon-juice. Work these ingre- dients well together until the mixture is of the consistency of thick cream. When thoroughly mixed, put the butter on a hot dish, place the broiled kidney upon it, and serve. Time, seven or eight minutes to broil the veal kidney ; three or four minutes to mix the sauce. Probable cost, 10d. Sufficient for one person. Veal Kidney, Broiled.—Skin the kid- ney, and cut it in halves lengthwise. Flatten these, season with salt and cayenne, dip them in clarified butter, and bread-crumb them. Broil over a clear fire, and serve on a hot dish with a small piece of maitre d’hétel butter under them. This butter may be made as follows :—Pick and wash half an ounce of parsley. Chop it small, then put it in the corner of a:napkin, dip it in cold water, and wring it dry. Put it in a basin with a little pepper and salt, three ounces of butter, and a dessert-spoon- ful of lemon-juice. Beat it with a wooden spoon or a knife till it looks like cream, when it will be ready for use. If it is placed too near the fire to melt the butter the preparation will be spoilt Time to broil the kidney, eight minutes—four minutes to each side. Veal Kidney Cakes.—Take a cold veal kidney, mince finely both fat and lean, and mix with it an equal weight of finely-grated bread- crumbs. Season rather highly with pepper and salt, and bind the mixture together with the yolk of a well-beaten egg. Form it into cakes, dip these into melted butter, and afterwards into finely-grated bread-crumbs, and fry them in a little hot butter or lard till brightly browned. Drain the fat from them before serving, and arrange neatly on a dish garnished with parsley. Send good brown sauce to table in a tureen. Time to fry the cakes, about ten minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. , Veal Kidneys, Roasted.—Take two veal kidneys from a loin of veal which has been roasted until done enough. Mince them finely with some fat, and add a table-spoonful of flavouring made of mushrooms which have been stewed in butter, then chopped small, and mixed with parsley, thyme, and onion also fried. Season the forcemeat with salt and cayenne, and bind it together with raw egg. Cut one or two slices of stale crumb of bread into neat shapes. Fry these in hot fat till they are brightly browned on both sides, then drain VEA ( 1051 ) VEA them, and spread the forcemeat upon them half an inch thick. Brush the surface over with yolk of egg, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon it. Place the pieces of bread thus prepared on a very hot dish, cover with a dish-cover, and serve immediately. aye ate ‘™ Meal, Knuckle of, and Rice Soup.— Take a knuckle of veal weighing about six pounds. Divide it (sawing through the bones) into half a dozen pieces, and put these in a stewpot with a carrot, a turnip, a small onion, half a dozen peppercorns, half a head of celery, half a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of salt, and four quarts of cold water. Bring it slowly to the boil, remove the scum carefully as it rises, and boil gently for three hours. Take out the meat, cut it into convenient-sized pieces, and put them aside for further use. Strain the soup. Put it into a clean saucepan with twelve ounces of rice already three-parts boiled, and boil for three-quarters of an hour longer. Add the veal, and serve very hot. Time, four hours. Probable cost, 5s. 6d. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. Veal, Knuckle of, Boiled.—A ‘knuckle of veal is generally boiled, and forms a most wholesome and nourishing dish. It should be “washed, then put into a stewpan, covered with cold water, boiled, then simmered gently and skimmed frequently for from two hours and a half to three hours, or till the gristle is quite tender, but not till the flesh will leave the bone. On account of its sinewy nature this joint needs to be well cooked. Plain melted butter or parsley and butter may be both poured over it and served with it. Egg sauce, onion sauce, and white sauce are also suitable accompani- ments. Bacon and greens or mashed turnips and potatoes are usually eaten with knuckle of veal, and the dish should be garnished with parsley, lemon-rind, and forcemeat'balls. Time, a knuckle of veal weighing about six pounds, two hours and a quarter. Probable cost, 7d. per pound. ‘Veal, Knuckle of, Boiled (another way).—Cut the shank-bone from a knuckle of veal: This may be stewed separately in a little water to make white sauce. ‘ Put the joint into. a saucepan, cover with cold water, and when it begins to simmer throw in a tea-spoonful of salt to assist in throwing up the scum, skim care- | fully, and let it boil gently until done enough. Serve on a hot dish, and with either white sauce or parsley and butter poured over it, and more inatureen. Garnish with slices of lemon and veal forcemeat balls. A piece of boiled bacon, a pig’s cheek, or slices of fried bacon should be sent to table with it. Time to boil, fully twenty minutes per pound from the time the water boils. Probable cost, 93d. or 10d. per pound. Sufficient, a joint weighing six pounds, for six or eight persons. Veal, Knuckle of, Boiled (another way).—As veal is insipid, it isa meat seldom boiled. The knuckle, however, being chiefly composed of cartilage, is occasionally boiled, and requires stewing to render it fit for eating. It is sometimes boiled with rice, and the gravy drawn from it is favoured with onions, a little mace, and a few peppercorns. With the broth half a pint of cream or milk may be mixed, and the whole—meat, rice, and broth—served to- gether in a tureen. If sent -up'separately, the veal will require a sauce of parsley ‘and butter, as well as the accompaniment of boiled bacon on a separate dish. Veal, Knuckle of, ae — The knuckle of veal is almost always boiled: it is esteemed for its fat and tendons about the Imuckle. The best slices can be cut only from the thickest part of the knuckle. About this part is some delicious fat; and cutting in one direction two bones will be divided. Between these fine marrowy fat is to be found. Veal, Knuckle of, Ragoftit of.—Cut.a knuckle of veal into small thick slices. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt on these, dredge flour upon them, and fry them in butter till they are brightly browned on both sides. Drain them, put them in a saucepan, and barely cover them with boiling stock or water. Throw in a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, and a few outer sticks of celery. Let the liquor boil up, remove the scum as it rises, then draw the saucepan to the side and let its contents simmer very gently till the veal is tender. Thicken the gravy with ground rice, add a table-spoon- ful of good store sauce, and serve. A few force- meat balls may be added if liked. By way of variety, a pint of freshly-shelled young green peas may be stewed separately and served with the veal. Dressed veal may be cut into small pieces and stewed according to this recipe in a little of the liquor in which it was boiled mixed with milk. Whole rice or peas may be stewed with it. Time to simmer the veal, about two hours. Probable cost, knuckle of veal, 7d. per pound. .. Veal, Knuckle of, Soup.—Take a knuckle of veal weighing about six pounds, and break the bone in three or four places. Put half a pound of bacon in slices half an inch thick at the bottom of a stewpan, place the meat on this, and add a carrot, a turnip, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a few sticks of celery, two large onions with three cloves stuck in them, and a tea-spoonful of pepper- corns. Barely cover the ingredients with cold water, let the liquor boil, skim it, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer gently till’ the veal is quite tender. ‘Take out the meat, strain the soup, and let it stand till cold. Before serving, remove the cake of fat from the top. If there is too much soup to use at once, ‘a little may be served at a time, and it may be thickened one day with vermicelli, another day with macaroni, and a third day with rice. The veal may be cut: up into neat pieces and served with peas as a ragotit (see Veal, Knuckle of, Ragotit of), or, if preferred, it may be served in the soup. Time, four hours to simmer the soup. Probable cost, knuckle of veal, 7d. per pound. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. . Veal, Knuckle of, Stewed with Green Peas.—Take a small knuckle of veal. Melt a slice of fresh butter in a frying- pan, and put into it two onions sliced and the knuckle of veal whole. Turn the meat about VEA ( 1052 ) VEA till it is lightly and equally browned. Put it into a stewpan with the onions and as much boiling stock or water as will cover it. ‘Let the liquor boil, then simmer gently for an hour. Add two lettuces finely shred, a pint of freshly- shelled green peas, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and a tea-spoonful of pepper, and simmer all gently together another hour. Serve the meat on a hot dish with the gravy poured over it, and send boiled rice to table on a separate dish. If liked, one or more cucumbers, pared, freed from seeds, and sliced, may be stewed in the gravy as well as the peas. Boiled bacon should be sent to table with it. Time to stew the veal, about two hours or more, according to size. Probable cost, four pounds at 5d. per pound, five pounds at 6d. per pound, six pounds at 7d. per pound. Veal, Knuckle of, Stewed with Macaroni.—Break the shank-bone of a small knuckle of veal, wash it well, and put it into a stewpan with a shallot or a small onion, and a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Cover with stock or water, and let it simmer for an hour and a half. Throw half a pound of macaroni into it, and let it simmer till tender, when it will be ready for serving. Ifpreferred, the sauce may be thickened and will be much improved by boiling with it for the last ten minutes a table-spoonful of ground rice mixed smoothly with milk ; a little cream may be added to enrich it. Time, two hours. Probable cost, veal, 5d. to 7d. per pound. Veal, Knuckle of, Stewed with Rice.—Put a small knuckle of veal into a stewpan just large enough to contain it. If too large, so much water will be needed that the veal will be rendered insipid. Cover with stock or water, throw a tea-spoonful of salt into it, let the liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Throw into it halfa pound of well-washed rice, and let all stew gently together till the meat and the rice are tender. Half an hour before it is taken up, season the preparation with mace and cayenne, and add a little more salt if required. Send boiled bacon and parsley and butter to table with the veal. Time to stew the veal, two hours to two hours and a half— half an hour to the pound. Veal Liver Paté (to be eaten cold).— Take one pound of calf’s liver and ten ounces of fat bacon. Mince these first separately, and afterwards together, and season the mixture with pepper, salt,and pounded mace. Add two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, two ounces of finely-minced lean ham, and a moderate- sized onion that has been sliced and browned in fat. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and mix with them first the beaten yolks, and afterwards the well-whisked whites of two eggs. Line a mould with thin slices of fat bacon, put in the mince, place slices of bacon on the top, and bake the paté very gradually in a gentle oven. When it is done enough it can be easily pierced quite through with a skewer. Let it get cold, turn it upon a dish, and garnish with parsley. Carve it in slices. Veal, Loin of.—The loin is generally considered the prime joint of veal for roasting. It is frequently divided, and then there is the kidney end and the chump end. The chump end is sometimes stuffed, but if this is not done forcemeat balls should bé served with it. A loin of veal is frequently stewed also, and in winter-time is excellent. Veal, Loin of (4 la créme).—Prepare and roast a loin of veal in the usual way. About a quarter of an hour before it is done enough take up the dripping-tin, put a clean dish in its place, and baste the veal continually with boil- ing cream. This will impart to its surface a rich brown coating of delicious flavour. Dish the veal, and in doing so handle it carefully, for fear of injuring its surface. Pour two table- spoonfuls of boiling water into the dish over which it was basted, and in this stir the brown gravy which has dropped from the joint, and add it to half a pint of good white sauce. Pour some of this round the veal, and serve the rest ina tureen. Ham, tongue, or pickled pork will be needed as an accompaniment. Veal, Loin of (au béchamel).—Take a loin of veal, and have it boned entirely by the butcher. Take out the kidney, remove some of the fat, and put the kidney back in its place. Sprinkle a little pepper and salt over the veal, roll in and skewer the flap to give the joint a good shape, and put a buttered paper round the meat. Roast before a clear fire, and baste liberally. Ten minutes before taking up the meat remove the paper, sprinkle a little salt upon the meat, and let it brown. Send bé- chamel sauce to table in a tureen. Serve boiled ham or bacon on a separate dish. Time to roast the loin, two hours to two hours and a half, or twenty-five minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 11d. per pound. Veal, Loin of (au béchamel—Coitp Mzar Cooxsery).—Take the remains of a dressed loin of veal. Cut off the meat, mince finely, and season with salt, cayenne, and grated lemon- rind. Wrap the loin in oiled paper, place it in the oven, and heat throughout. Moisten the mince with béchamel, and make it quite hot. Dish it, put the loin over it, p6ur about a quarter of a pound of béchamel upon it, and serve immediately. Fried or boiled bacon should be sent to table with this dish. Time, about one hour and a half to heat the joint. Veal, Loin of, Boiled.—It is not often that the loin of veal is boiled whole, as it is always best to finish it the day on which it is dressed, because cold boiled veal is not a par- ticularly relishing dish. Nevertheless, to inva- lids and persons of delicate taste boiled veal is sometimes more acceptable than roast veal. The best end of the loin, with the kidney left in, is excellent, and should be served with oyster or well-made white sauce. The chump end may be accompanied by parsley and butter. A loin of veal should be boiled just like a fillet of veal, though on account of its being less solid it will not need to be boiled quite so long. A piece weighing from eight to ten pounds will need to simmer from two hours and a quarter to two hours and a half. Veal, Loin of, Braised.—Take four pounds of the chump end of a loin of veal. VEA ( 1058 ) VEA Take out the bone, and fill the cavity with good veal forcemeat. If liked, this may be omitted. Bind tightly with string, then put it in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, and turn it about till it is lightly and equally coloured all over. Lay some slices of bacon over it, and add the bones and trimmings of the veal, a large carrot, an onion sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, a blade of mace, and a little salt. Pour over all a quart of stock, and simmer the veal as gently as possible, basting frequently with the liquor till it is tender. Take it up, and put it in the oven to keep hot. Strain the gravy, skim ‘the fat from the surface, and boil quickly till it is considerably reduced. Putiton a dish, glaze with part of the gravy, and stir into the rest an anchovy, a spoonful of capers, and a glassful of light wine. Dressed sorrel, spinach, or endive may be served on a separate dish. Time to simmer the veal, two hours. Veal, Loin of, Braised (superlative). —Take the best end of a loin of veal weighing about eight pounds, and trim it square. Cut the flap slightly, and in the incision thus made just over the ends of the bones place some nice veal forcemeat. Fasten securely with skewers and string. Cover the bottom of a braising- pan with sliced vegetables, and lay the veal on this; pour in as much stock or water as will just reach the surface of the veal. Lay around of oiled paper on the top, if possible put some live embers in the lid of the pan, and braise the meat over a gentle fire till it is quite tender. Baste frequently with its liquor. When done enough, take it up, drain it, and put it in the oven to keep hot. Strain the gravy, skim the fat from it, and boil quickly till it is much reduced and begins to thicken, then glaze the meat with it. Place the meat on a dish, and garnish with dressed vegetables, arranging these so that the colours will contrast one with another. Cauliflowers, carrots, turnips, mush- rooms, tomatoes, lettuces, asparagus, sorrel, en- dive, and spinach may all be served with braised loin of veal and mushrooms. Tomato, white Italian, or brown sauce may accom- pany it. Time to braise the veal, three hours. Probable cost, loin of veal, 11d. per pound. Veal, Loin of, Chump End, Roasted. —Make an incision in the skin round the thick part of the joint with a sharp knife, and in this put some good veal forcemeat. Grease a sheet of white paper, wrap it round the joint, then put it down before a clear fire, and rather close to it. At the end of a quarter of an hour withdraw it to a distance, and let it roast very gently till done enough. Baste liberally. Half an hour before it is taken up remove the paper, dredge a little flour upon it, and sprinkle over it a ttle salt and the strained juice of a lemon. Let the veal brown brightly. Mix a slice of butter very smoothly with a dessert-spoonful of flour. Pour upon this a cupful of boiling water, add a little salt, and boil the sauce for a fewminutes. Pour the fat out of the dripping- tin, leaving the brown gravy untouched. Stir the melted butter into this, strain it into the saucepan, and again let it boil. Put the veal on a dish the broad side downwards. Pour part of the gravy over it; put the rest in a tureen, and serve immediately. Send a cut lemon to table on a plate, and let boiled tongue, ham, bacon, or pickled pork accompany the veal. Time to roast the veal, twenty-five, minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Veal, Loin of—Kidney End— Roasted.—Place a piece of battered paper round the lean part of the loin, being careful to cover the kidney entirely with its fat. Hang the veal close to a good fire. At the end of twenty minutes draw it back a little, and roast gently, basting frequently until done enough. Half an hour before it is taken up remove the paper, dredge a little flour upon the veal, and sprinkle over it the strained juice of a lemon and a little salt. Continue to baste until it is brightly browned. Make a little brown sauce according to the instructions given for roasting the chump end of a loin of veal. Toast a round of bread on both sides. Put it on a hot dish, and place the veal uponit, with the kidney resting on the toast. Pour a little of the gravy over the meat, serve the rest in a tureen, and send a cut lemon to table on a plate. Bacon, ham, or tongue should be served with this dish. Time to roast the veal, twenty-eight minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 11d. per pound. *Veal, Loin of, Roast.—It is by no means a general practice to stuff a loin of veal, but it is one which can be highly recommended, as it greatly improves the joint. Make an incision in the flap or skirt of the loin, and into the cavity thus made, just over the ends of the bones, put some good veal forcemeat. Roll in the flap to cover the kidney-fat, and skewer it down, or bind with string. Wrap the loin in well- greased sheets of paper, and put it down ata moderate distance before a clear fire. Baste liberally. Half an hour before it is done enough take away the paper, and let the veal brown. If the paper is not put on, the joint must be well dredged with flour soon after it is put to the fire. When done enough, put the veal ona hot dish, and pour either clear brown gravy or good brown sauce over it. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon and fried forcemeat balls. Ham, tongue, bacon, or pickled pork should be served with it. In some places egg sauce and brown gravy are served with roast veal. If the loin is a very large one, the kidney should be skewered back for a while to ensure its being sufficiently dressed. Care should be taken that the joint is hung before the fire in such a way that both ends will be equally done. Time, a large loin of veal, about three hours. Pro- pable cost, 11d. per pound. Veal, Loin of, Steamed (a German recipe).—Bone a loin of veal, remove the kid- neys, and trim away the superfluous fat. Spread a layer of veal forcemeat over the inner side of the veal, then roll it, and bind with twine to keep it in shape. Dissolve a slice of butter in a saucepan, put in the veal, and turn jt about over the fire till it is equally and lightly browned all over. Put with it a sliced carrot, a small onion, two bay-leaves, and a little pepper and salt. Pour a tea-cupful of stock over it, cover the saucepan closely, and let VEA ( 1054 ) VEA the veal steam gently till tender. Take up the veal, strain and skim the gravy, stir into it a cupful of sour cream and two table-spoonfuls of bruised capers. Let it boil, and pour it over the meat. If liked, the kidneys may be browned. and steamed with the veal. Time to steam the veal, an hour and a half to two hours. Veal, Loin of, Stewed, Plain.—Take the chump end of a moderate-sized loin of veal ; put it into a stewpan with a slice of fresh butter, and turn it about until it is lightly and equally browned. Pour over it boiling stock or water to half its depth, and add two sliced carrots, two small onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Let it simmer gently for an hour, carefully removing the scum as it rises. Turn it upon the other side, and simmer another hour. Dish the joint. Skim the gravy, pour some of it over the veal, and send the rest to table in atureen. Ham, bacon, or pickled pork should accompany this dish. Time, two hours. Probable cost, chump end of a loin of veal, 10d. per pound. Veal, Loin of, Stewed, Superior.— Take the chump end of a loin of veal weighing about seven pounds, and let the butcher bone it. Fill the cavity thus made with good veal force- meat, and bind the meat into a good form with tape. Put it into a stewpan with half a pound of bacon cutinto slices, two carrots, two onions, each stuck with a clove, a bunch of sweet herbs, a few outer sticks of celery, half a tea- spoonful of peppercorns, a blade of mace, and half the thin rind of a lemon. Half a dozen mushrooms may be added if liked, and will be an improvement. Barely cover the ingredients with veal stock, and let all simmer gently till the veal is tender. Draw the saucepan on one side, and take out as much of the stock as will be needed for sauce. Thicken this with white thickening or with a little butter rolled in flour. Place the veal on a dish, garnish with the bacon, pour the sauce over, and serve. Time to simmer the veal, two hours. Probable cost, veal, 10d. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. ‘Veal, Loin of, Stuffed and Braised (to eat cold).—Take a loin of veal with two neck-bones. Bone it, and stuff with good veal forcemeat. Wrap the sides round the forcemeat, skewer the joint firmly, and bind with tape, keeping it as oblong as possible. Wrap it in a napkin, tie the ends securely, and tie the meat also across in two or three places to keep it in shape. Place it on a bed ‘of sliced vegetables in a braising-pan, cover with as much stock as will barely reach to the edge of the surface of the veal, close the stewpan, and boil and simmer the veal very gently for four hours. Take the stewpan from the fire, but do not take out the veal until the liquor is cool. Remove the napkin, tie the meat in aclean one, put over it a dish with a heavy weight upon it, and let it remain until the next day. Trim neatly, brush over with liquid glaze, and garnish with aspic jelly, parsley, &c. This dish will be much improved if three or four truffles finely mineed, a little red tongue, and the veal kid- ney finely minced, be added to the forcemeat. Time to braise the veal, four hours. Veal, Marbled.—Cut into thin slices a dried tongue which has been skinned and boiled in the usual way. Pound these in a mortar with a little butter and a seasoning of pepper and pounded mace. Mince and pound separately an equal weight with the tongue of cold roast veal, and season this with salt and cayenne. Spread a layer of the veal in the bottom of a potting-pan, put the tongue on it in large lumps, leaving a space between each lump, and fill up the empty spaces with veal. Press the meat closely into the pan. Pour clarified butter over to the thickness of half an inch, and keep the preparation in a cool place till wanted. Veal, Minced.—Take the remains of cold dressed veal free from skin, bone, and fat. Mince finely, and put it aside. Put the brown skin, the bones, and trimmings into a saucepan with a little salt and pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a piece of thin lemon-rind. Pour over these as much stock or water as will cover them, and let the gravy simmer till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain the sauce, and, supposing there is a pound and a half of meat, stir into it a little more seasoning if needed, half a quarter of a pint of cream or milk, anda small piece of white thickening, or about an ounce of butter rubbed in flour. When the sauce is smooth and thick put in the minced veal, and let it simmer very gently indeed till it is quite hot, but it must not boil or it will be hard. Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with toasted sippets. Lf brown gravy is preferred to white, the cream must be omitted, and the gravy must be thickened with brown thickening, or if this is not at band flour and butter may be used, and a few drops of sugar browning be added. An onion with two cloves stuck into it should then be stewed with the gravy, anda glassful of port or claret may be added if liked. Fried rashers of bacon should accompany this dish. Time, an hour and a half to draw the Bravy i half an hour to simmer the mince in the gravy. Veal, Minced, and Macaroni.—Soak half a pound of macaroni in water for an hour, then put it into salted water, and boil gently till tender, Whilst it is boiling cut about, a pound. and a half of cold roast veal into thin slices free from fat, skin, and bone. Mince the meat finely with a quarter of its weight in ham (if this is to be had); season the mince with salt, white pepper, grated nutmeg, and grated lemon-rind, and add a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs. Bind the mixture together with one or two eggs. Butter a mould, drain the macaroni, and wind it round and round the inside. Put the mince in the centre, place a dish on the top of the mould, and steam the preparation over boiling water. Turn it upon a dish, and serve with brown gravy made from the bones and trimmings of the veal and ham poured round, but not upon it, Time to boil the macaroni, varying with the quantity ; to steam the preparation, half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 8d. Sufficient for four persons. Veal, Minced, and Macaroni (another way) .—Soak and boil the macaroni as before. Mince and flavour the veal, and mix with it VEA ( 1055 ) VEA a tablée-spoonful of flour. Cleanse, peel, and slice three fresh truffles. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a saucepan, put in the truffles, and fry them gently for eight minutes. Pour over them half a pint of good gravy and the minced veal, and let them simmer as gently as possible for half an hour. Add a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice and two table-spoonfuls of sherry ; turn the preparation into a mould lined with macaroni, and steam as in the last recipe. Veal, Minced and Scalloped.—To prepare this dish two or three scallop-shells are necessary, or small dishes or saucers may be used instead. Cleanse the shells, and butter them thickly. Mince the veal, and season in the usual way, then moisten and simmer it for three or four minutes in some good gravy drawn from the bones. Put a heaped table- spoonful of the mince into each shell. Cover it with seasoned bread-crumbs, lay little pieces of butter here and there on the top, and brown the surface in a Dutch oven before a clear fire. Serve the preparation in the shells, which should be neatly placed on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin. Veal, Minced, Moulded.—Cut three- quarters of a pound of cold roast veal free from bone, skin, and fat into thin slices, and mince it finely with a quarter of a pound of lean ham anda table-spoonful of bread-crumbs. Add half a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped onion (this, however, may be omitted), a pinch of grated lemon-rind, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and bind the mixture together with the yolk of an egg. Butter a mould, put in the mince, and bake in a moderate oven. When done enough turn it upon a hot dish, and pour round, but not over it, some good brown gravy made of the bones and trimmings of the veal. Garnish with sippets, and send fried bacon to table on a separate dish. ‘Time to bake the preparation, three-quarters of an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the cold meat, 4d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal, Minced, with Fow].—The white flesh of a boiled or roast fowl is very good mixed with minced veal. It should be seasoned and flavoured in the same way. A little lean ham is always an. improvement to this dish. Veal, Minced, with Poached Eggs. —Cut the lean meat from the bones, and mince it finely with a small portion of lean ham, if it is to be had. Break up the bones, and stew them in as much water as will cover them, with a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, three or four outer sticks of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt. Sim- mer the gravy for an hour or more, strain, skim it, thicken with white thickening or with flour and butter kneaded together, and add a little milk or cream. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is smooth and thick, pour half of it into ‘another saucepan, and add the minced veal to the remainder. Let it remain on the fire till the veal is thoroughly hot. It must not boil or the meat will be hard; care must be taken, too, to keep it from burning. Pile the mince in the centre of a dish, lay poached eggs upon it, and garnish it round with small rolls of thin fried bacon. Pour a little of the sauce which was kept aside over. the mince, and send the rest to table in wu tureen. Time, one hour and a half to stew the gravy. Veal, Minced, with Potatoes (a plain family dish) —Take the remains of cold dressed veal. Free the lean part entirely from skin, bone, and fat, and mince it finely. Stew the bones and trimmings with as much cold water as will cover them to a strong gravy. Mix with the minced veal an equal quantity (or more if liked) of cold boiled potatoes. Put the mixture into a saucepan, moisten with a little of the gravy, and add pepper and salt as required. Dredge a little flour into the mince, dissolve a slice of fresh butter in it, and let it simmer over a, moderate fire till it is thoroughly hot. Stir occasionally to keep it from burn- ing. Time, half an hour to heat the mince. Veal, Neapolitan Turnovers of.— Cut half a pound of dressed lean veal and two ounces of dressed ham (fat and lean together), into thin slices, and mince these finely. Dis- solve a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a saucepan, and fry in it a finely-minced shallot and a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley. Drain these, and put them in a mortar with the minced meat, a table-spoonful:of grated Par- mesan, w pinch of cayenne, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a salt-spoonful of white pepper. Pound these ingredients thoroughly, and whilst pounding add gradually a table-spoonful of strong stock which is a jelly when cold, a dessert-spoonful of sherry, « salt-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a, well-beaten ogg. Have ready some good pastry made for the purpose, and rolled to the thickness of a shilling. Cut this into pieces three inches square, and lay a spoonful of the forcemeat on one corner of each. Turn the corners over, moisten the edges with beaten egg, and press them together to make them stick. Put a quart of water into a saucepan, throw a tea- spoonful of salt into it, and let it boil. Drop the turnovers into it, and let them simmer for five minutes. Drain them, and put them into a dish. Have ready prepared some good stock made by simmering the bones and trimmings of the veal, with a carrot, an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, and as much water as will cover it. Strain thie stock, skim the fat from it, and put half a pint of if into a saucepan with a wine-glassful of light wine, two table-spoonfuls of grated Parmesan, a slice of butter, a tea- spoonful of ketchup, a spoonful of mustard, and another of essence of anchovy. Stir the gravy over the fire for five minutes, pour it over the turnovers, sprinkle a little grated cheese on the surface, and bake the turnovers in a quick oven. Serve them on the dish in which they they were baked. The pastry should be made fully three hours before it is used, and kept in a cool place till wanted. It may be made by mixing half a salt-spoonful of salt with six ounces of baked flour, then rubbing into this one ounce of butter, and working. into the mix- ture the yolks of three eggs beaten up with . a wine-glassful of cold water. Veal, Neck of.—The best end of the neck is generally chosen for roasting, and is . VEA ( 1053 ) VEA excellent served with forcemeat balls round it, though it is not usual to stuff it with force- meat. It is also very good braised or stewed. The scrag end of the neck should be made into a pie or used for broth. Probable cost, best end, 11d. large, 1s. small; scrag end, from 7d. per pound, according to size. Veal, Neck of (a la Créme).—Take the best end of a neck of veal. Loosen the flesh from the ends of the bones. Cut the bones short to make the joint as square as possible, then fold and skewer the flank underneath. Wrap the joint in oiled paper, fasten it upon the spit, and put it down at a moderate distance from a clear fire. Baste liberally. Remove the paper, and baste the joint with a pint of good white sauce or with cream. This will impart to the surface of the veal a rich brown appearance and a delicious flavour. Serve the veal on a hot dish, pour white sauce round it, and send a little more to table ina tureen. If liked, white mushroom sauce may be served with the veal, as well as or instead of béchamel. Some cooks before roasting the veal let it lie in oil for a couple of hours, with a little pepper, salt, and powdered sweet herbs sprinkled over it. Time to roast the veal, two hours to two hours and a quarter, or twenty-five minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 11d. or ls. per pound, Veal, Neck of, Braised.—Take about four pounds of the best end of a neck of veal. Cut off the long bones, and saw off the chine bone. Put in the bottom of a braising-pan a sliced carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bunch of parsley, « sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a few sticks of celery, with two or three slices of lean bacon or ham. Add the bones and trimmings of the veal with the scrag end of the neck if it is not wanted for other purposes. Pour in a little stock or water, as much as will almost, but not quite, cover the veal. Set the pan over a slow fire, and let its contents simmer very gently till the veal is tender. Strain the liquor, and boil half of it quickly till it begins to thicken. With this glaze the meat until it has a bright glossy appearance. Thicken the remainder with a small piece of brown thicken- ing, or with flour and butter kneaded together and stirred quickly over the fire until the paste is brown. Boil the sauce till smooth, skim well, stir the juice of an orange or lemon into it, and serve with the meat. Dressed vege- tables, such as peas, onions, carrots, potatoes, spinach, sorrel, endive, and asparagus, may be served with the veal, and part of these may be used to garnish the dish. If liked, rice boiled for curry and with curry sauce poured over it may be sent to table as an accompaniment. Time, from an hour and three quarters to two hours to stew the veal. Probable cost, 11d. or 1s. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Veal, Neck of, Braised (i la ppm —Braise the best end of a neck of veal accor ing to the instructions already given, and be- fore doing so lard it with strips of truffles (see Veal, Neck of, Larded). Put bacon over the veal in the pan to preserve the colour of the meat, and send Italian sauce to table as an accompaniment. Veal, Neck of, Larded.—To lard a neck of veal, first trim it by shortening the long bones and sawing off the chine bone. With a sharp knife remove the skin and sinew which cover the fillet, leaving the bones covered with fat, and lard the fillet thus bared closely and evenly with strips of fat bacon. After- wards braise the veal according to the instruc- tions already given, and be careful that the liquor is high enough only to touch the edge of the surface of the veal, and that it does not cover the larding. When the veal is tender, take it up, and keep it hot. Strain the liquor, skirn the fat from it, and boil it down till it begins to thicken. Put the veal in the oven, and basto constantly for a quarter of an hour or till it has a bright glossy appearance. Place it ona dish, and send good brown sauce and dressed vegetables to table with it. Veal, Neck of, Roast.—Take the best end of a neck of veal, saw off the chine bone, and run a strong skewer through the joint lengthwise, wrap in buttered paper, and tie it to the spit. Ifthe joint is not wrapped in paper, it must be well dredged with flour, and basted very liberally with dripping from the pan. Put it down before a clear fire, and at a suf-- ficient distance to keep it from being scorched. A quarter of an hour before the joint is taken up, remove the paper, dredge the meat with flour, and baste with a little butter dissolved inaspoon. Pour the fat from the pan, leaving the brown sediment behind, stir into it a quarter of a pint of thin melted butter, and add a little salt; then strain the sauce into a sauce- pan, and let it boil. Put the joint ona hot dish, pour part of the sauce round it, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Send the joint to table accompanied by bacon, ham, tongue, or Licey pork on a separate dish, and with a cut emon on a plate. Parsley sauce, onion sauce, white sauce, and rice sauce may all be served with roast neck of veal. Time to roast the veal, an hour and a half to two hours, or twenty-five minutes to the pound. Probable cost, 11d. or 1s. per pound. i Veal, Neck of, Stewed.—Take the best endof a neck of veal. Lard it, or if this cannot be conveniently done, cover with a thin slice of fat bacon, and roast it for one hour. Put it into a stewpan, pour a quart of stock made from bones over it, and add a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two onions thinly sliced, half a dozen mushrooms, half a tea- spoonful of whole pepper, and four ounces of picked and washed rice. Let the liquor boil, then draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents simmer as gently as possible till the meat is tender. Put the veal on a dish, strain part of the gravy over it, and send the rest to table in a tureen. Garnish with the boiled rice. Time, altogether, two hours. Probable cost, veal, 11d. or 1s. perpound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Veal, Norman Haricot of.—Take two pounds and a half of veal chops. Trim them neatly, free them almost entirely from fat, and brown them lightly in a little butter. Put them into a stewpan, pour over them a pint of boiling stock, add a bunch of parsley, and simmer very VEA ( 1057 ) VEA gently for three-quarters of an hour. Clean two pounds of new potatoes. Let them boil up once, then put them in the stewpan above the meat, cover closely, and simmer again until they are done enough. Before serving add salt and pepper if required. Place the cutlets in the centre of a hot dish, and put the potatoes round them with any other vegetables that may have been cooked for the purpose. Young carrots, green peas, or cauliflowers are all good. A slice of lean ham is a great improvement to this dish. Time, an hour and a quarter. Probable cost, 3s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Veal Olive Pie.—Take the remains of a dressed fillet of veal. Cut the meat into thin slices, cover these with pieces of bacon, spread forcemeat upon them, and roll them firmly. Place them in a pie-dish, piling them high in the centre, pour over them a little gravy made from the bones and trimmings of the veal and thickened with brown thickening. Line the edges of the dish with pastry, cover with the same, and bake the pie in a well-heated oven. The pie will of course be much better if the olives are made with fresh veal. Time to bake a moderate-sized pie, one hour to one hour and a half. Veal Olive Pie (superior).— Make the olives according to the instructions given in the following recipe (see Veal Olives). Place them in the pie-dish, piling them highest in the centre, and intersperse amongst them a dozen or more forcemeat balls about the size of marbles, the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs cut into halves, eight or ten stewed mushrooms, and a pickled cucumber sliced. Pour over the olives some good highly-seasoned gravy thickened with brown thickening and flavoured with lemon- Juice and a glassful of sherry. A little cream may be added if liked. Cover the pie with good pastry, and bake it in a well-heated oven. Time to bake a moderate-sized pie, one hour to one hour and a half. Veal Olives.—Cut half a dozen slices half an inch thick, seven inches long, and four inches broad, from an undressed fillet of veal, Flatten these with a chopper, and brush them over with beaten yolk of egg. Lay upon each a thin slice of fat bacon the same size as the veal, brush this also with yolk of egg, and spread a layer of good veal forcemeat over it. Rolleach piece up tightly, and bind it with twine. Flour the olives, or if preferred brush them with egg, and roll them in bread-crumbs. Melt a little dripping in a frying-pan, put in the olives, and turn them about till they are lightly browned all over. Drain, and place them closely side by side in a saucepan just large enough to hold them. Pour over them 48 much boiling gravy as will cover them, and let them simmer very gently till done enough. Lift them on’ a dish, strain the gravy over, and garnish with slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley. Send fried bacon to table on a separate dish. The gravy in which the olives are to be stewed may be made as follows: —Take the bones and trimmings of the veal with any bones of poultry that there may be; break them into amall pieces, and put them 67—n.z. in a stewpan with a slice of butter or drip- ping, two sliced onions, a handful of parsley, a blade of mace, four cloves, and six or eight peppercorns. Shake the saucepan over the fire till the ingredients become slightly browned, then pour in gradually a quart of hot water. Let this boil, and thicken with a lump of brown thickening. Failing this, mix a table- spoonful of flour smoothly with a, little cold water in a basin. Stir a portion of the boiling liquor with this, and add it to the rest. Add also a table-spoonful of ketchup and as much sugar browning as will make the gravy of a good colour. Cover the saucepan closely, and let its contents simmer gently till the gravy is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain the sauce, let it cool a short time, clear it from fat, stir in some salt, let it boil, and it will be ready for use. If there are no bones from the veal, one pennyworth of fresh bones or half a pound of lean beef or veal may be used instead. Time, one hour and a half to simmer the bones, two hours to stew the olives. Probable cost, veal, ls. 1d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. Veal Olives (another way). — Cut five slices of veal six inches long, four wide, and as thin as possible, from the fillet, and an equal number of exceedingly thin slices of bacon of the same shape and size. Fatten the veal with a chopper, spread a portion of the forcemeat upon it, and cover this with the bacon. Roll the olives firmly, and fasten them with a skewer, or bind them with twine. Flour them, or if preferred dip them twice in beaten egg and bread-crumbs. Brown them in a little fat, put them side by side in a small stewpan, cover with gravy, and simmer very gently till tender, basting them constantly. When done enough place them on a dish, strain and skim the gravy, and stir into it a glassful of light wine or a table- spoonful of lemon-juice or walnut-pickle. Let it boil, pour it over the olives, and serve. By way of variety, instead of ordinary veal force- meat the stuffing may be prepared as follows:— Scrape half a pound of undressed veal and one ounce of lean ham with the back of a knife till the fibre only is left. Put this pulp into a mortar with a cleaned anchovy, an ounce of suet from the loin chopped separately, a tea-spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, half a tea-spoonful of mixed and powdered herbs, a dessert-spoon- ful of corn-flour, and a little salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Mix and pound the ingredients thoroughly, and bind the forcemeat together with beaten egg. Time, about two hours to stew the olives. Probable cost, veal, ls. 1d. per pound. Sufficient for four or five persons. Veal Olives (another way).—Prepare the olives in the usual way. Brown them in a little fat, drain them, pack them in a saucepan, and stew them in gravy till tender. A few minutes before serving put with them half a pint of stewed button mushrooms, a table. spoonful of lemon pickle or lemon-juice, and a glassful of Marsala. A dozen fried oysters may be added if liked. Veal Olives olives as before. 8 firmly to keep in the forcemeat. Roasted.—Prepare the kewer them and. bind:them Flour them, " VEA ( 1058 ) VEA or if preferred dip them im egg and roll them in bread-crumbs, lay them on a lark-spit, and put them down to a clear fire. Baste liberally till done enough. ‘Take them up, and serve with good brown gravy or with mushroom sauce and sliced cucumber. Time to roast the olives, about three-quarters.of an hour. Veal Patties.—Make the patty-cases in the usual way (see Patties, Preparation of, qnd | Puff Paste Patties, or Small Vol-au-Vents). | Bake them, and when they are done enough, have ready to fill them a savoury preparation made according to any of the following recipes. No. 1. Mince, first separately and afterwards together, half a pound of lean veal and two ounces of ham. Adda table-spoonful of flour, a tea-spoonful of grated parmesan, the rind of half a lemon grated, a pinch of grated nutmeg, anda little pepper and salt. Mix the ingredients thoroughly. Put the mince into a saucepan with as much strong veal stock that will jelly when cold as will moisten it. Stir over a gentle fire for a quarter,of an hour. Add:two | table-spoonfuls of thick cream and a dessert- spoonful of lemon-juice, and the mince will be ready for use. No 2. Mince half a pound of dressed lean veal free from skin ‘and fat and half a dozen oysters separately. ‘Take as much | nicely-flavoured. veal stock eee when | cold as will moisten the mince. with it two table-spoonfuls of thick cream, the oyster | liquor, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind. Put the sauce with the mince into a saucepan, and let it get quite hot. Put in the oysters for half a minute, and serve. No. 3. Take a pound of dressed: lean veal free from skin and’ gristle. Cut it into strips, and mince finely with a quarter of a pound of lean ham. Put the bones and trimmings of the veal into a saucepan with a pint of water, a bunch of parsley, an inch of thin lemon-rind, half a dozen peppercorns, and a blade of mace. Simmer this gravy for an hour or more till it is strong and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, let it get cold, and free it from fat. Put the minced veal into a small saucepan with as much gravy as will moisten it, and add three table-spoonfuls of cream and a small piece of butter rolled in flour. gentle fire till it is quite hot and smooth, when it will be ready for use. If preferred, the mince may be baked in the cases instead of being put into them after they are baked, but it is best to bake the pastry separately, as the mince hardens in baking. Veal Patties, Fried.— Mince half a pound of dressed lean veal and a quarter of a pound of ham. Season the mince with salt, cayenne, grated lemon-rind, and grated nut- meg, and mix with it an egg boiled hard and chopped small. Moisten with nicely-flavoured stock that forms a strong jelly when cold, and add a little cream. Roll some good :pastry to the thickness of half-a-crown. Put: little mounds of the mince upon this an inch distant from each other. -Place a piece of pastry over all, and stamp the covered mounds ‘out in patties with a round cutter. Moisten’ the edges, and i the pastry together round the mince. When wanted. drap the patties into Stir the mince over a | hot fat and fry them till they aro lightly browned.’ Drain them, and serve on a neatly- folded napkin garnished with parsley. If pre- ferred, the patties may be baked in a moderate oven instead of being fried. Time to fry the patties, a quarter of an hour. 5 Veal Pie.—Any part of lean veal free from fat and bone may be used fora pie. The loin and the best end of the neck arc excellent for the purpose when the bone and the greater part of the fat are removed. Slices from the fillet are very good also. The knuckle, part of the leg, the breast, and the shoulder may also be advantageously used, but they should be partially stewed before being put into the pie, as otherwise they will not be tender. Veal pie may be made plain or rich according to choice. Ham or bacon, forcemeat-balls, hard-boiled eggs, sweetbreads, oysters, mushrooms, trutiles, &c., may all be introduced. If ham or bacon has been cured with saltpetre there is a danger that it will make the veal red, and so spoil the appearance of the pie. On this account dressed ham or bacon is to be preferred, though it is not so savoury. Veal Pie, Good.—Take a pound and a half of veal cutlets a quarter of an inch thick and free from skin and bone, also half a pound of’ thin ham.’ Season’ the meat with a little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, grated lemon-rind, and ‘powdered mace, and let the quantity of salt used be regulated by the quality of the ham. Divide the meat into pieces an inch and a half square, put it in layers into a buttered pie-dish, and pour over it half a quarter of a pint of cold stock or water. Intersperse amongst the pieces of veal the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs and four forcemeat balls, to- gether with four button mushrooms, or a truffle, if these can be had. The pie, however, will be very good without them. Line the edge of a dish with good pastry, cover with the same, trim with a sharp knife, and ornament the pie. Make a hole in the centre that the steam may escape, and bake. the pie in a moderate oven. Have ready some nicely-seasoned veal gravy to pour into the pie after it is baked. Lay paper over the pastry in the oven to keep it from browning too much. Time to bake the pie, two hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for a moderate-sized pie. Veal Pie, Good (another way).—Cut a pound and a half of veal cutlet, free from skin and bone, into pieces an inch and a half square, and cut half a pound of thinly-sliced ham into pieces of the same size. Fill a buttered pie-dish with the veal and ham in alternate layers, and place the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs on the surface. Mince four button mushrooms, one shallot, and a bunch of parsley. Fry these in an ounce of butter fora few minutes, then pour upon. the mixture half a pint of stock or water, and add a small piece of brown thickening or a table- spoonful of ‘flour mixed smoothly with a little ketchup.’ Simmer the gravy, stirring well unti! it boils. Add a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and strain some of it upon the veal. Bake the pie‘in a well-heated oven. Pour a little good gravy into it before serving. Time to bake the pie, an hour and a half :to two hours. VEA ( 1059 ) VEA -Prohable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for.a modorate- sized, dish. a «, Weal Pie, Parsley.—Cut some slices of Jean veal into neat pieces, and season these with salt and cayenne. Take a handful of parsley, pick. the leaves from the stems, scald them, press, dry, and-.chop them small. Fill the dish with layers of veal, and sprinkle a little parsley over éach layer. Pour milk into the dish in- stead of .sto Cover the dish with pastry in the usual way, and bake until done enough. Lift up the crust, pour away the milk, and substitute for it half a pint of boiling cream. Serve immediately. Veal Pie, Plain (for family use)—Take two pounds of the breast of veal, cut it into pieces an inch and a half square, and season the meat by sprinkling over it a savoury powder made of two tea-spoonfuls of salt, one tea- spoonful of white pepper, half a tea-spoonful of pounded mace, and half a tea-spoonful of grated Jemon-rind. Pour over the meat a small quan- tity of water, and add a few sticks of celery, an onion, and a small bunch of sweet herbs. Let the meat heat gently, and add a little more water, till there is as much as will barely cover the meat. Stew the veal very gently till it is tender. Let it remain until cold, then take out the fat. Place the meat in layers in a pie-dish, and put in with the veal a little ham or bacon, three eggs boiled hard, shelled, and sliced, and a few forcemeat balls. All or any of these ingredients may be omitted. Strain a little of the stock over the meat. Line the edges of the dish with pastry, cover with the same, and make a hole in the centre. Ornament the sur- face of the pie, brush it over with yolk of egs, and bake in a well-heated oven. Turn the pie about that it may be equally baked. Boil the gravy that was not used, and when the pie comes from the oven pour it in. If more con-— venient, the veal, instead of being stewed in a saucepan, may be put into a pie-dish, covered with a dish, and stewed in a moderate oven. Time to stew the veal, about one hour and a quarter ; to bake the pie, three quarters of an hour to one hour and a quarter. ' Probable cost, veal, 9d, or 10d. per pound. Veal Pie, Raised.—Take a pound and a half of lean veal and a pound of ham. Cut three-parts of the veal into neat pieces, and season these with pepper and chopped mush- rooms. Mince the remainder of the veal with an equal quantity of fat bacon, pound the mix- ture in a mortar, and season with salt and cayenne. A small piece of onion, herbs, and spices may be added to the forcemeat, if liked. Line 4 mould with pastry in the usual way. Cover the bottom with forcemeat, and fill the pie with alternate layers of thinly-sliced ham, veal, and forcemeat. Lay thin slices of fat. bacon on the top of the meat, put a bay-leaf on that, and finish and bake the pie (see Raised Pies). -Half an hour after it is taken from the oven: pour into it, through a pointed strainer placed in the hole at the top, a little highly- seasoned gravy which will form a strong jelly wher cold. This jelly may be made by stewing a calf’s foot and the bones and trimmings of the veal with an onion stuck with two cloves, a small bunch of herbs, and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. in stock or water for ‘a: couple of hours. When the pie is sufficiently baked, a skower will pierce it easily. If liked, the pieces of veal in the pie may be larded. Time to bake the pie, two hours or more. Veal Pie, Solid.—Put a piece of the knuckle of veal into a stewpan, cover with water, let it boil’ up, then simmer till it is quite tender. Let it get cold, then divide it into small pieces. Butter a plain round or oval shape, and cover the bottom with the yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs neatly arranged. Place over these some pieces of the meat and gristle, with a seasoning of salt, pepper, pounded mace, and grated lemon-rind. Pour in a little of the gravy in which the meat was boiled, and which ought to form a strong jelly, and fill the dish with the meat, han bailed eggs, and sliced beetroot, so arranged that the colours will con- trast prettily. Pour in as much gravy as will cover the ingredients, and bake the ‘pie in a well-heated oven. When quite cold, turn it out. It ought to have a glazed appearance. Time to bake, twenty: minutes. Veal Pie, Superlative.—Butter a dish, and fill it with alternate layers of lean veal cut into neat, pieces and seasoned with pepper, salt, and pounded mace, thin ham sliced, sweetbread, and chopped truffles. Place little pieces of butter hereand there inthe pie. Cover the dish with rich pastry, and bake till done enough. After the pie.is taken from the oven, pour into it through the hole in the centre some’ gravy made of some strong, highly-seasoned ‘veal stock mixed with a glassful of champagne. Veal Pie with Oysters.—Take ‘a pound and a half of veal cutlet half an inch thick. Flatten the meat with a cutlet-bat, sprinkle over it a seasoning of peppe, salt, and grated nutmeg, and: cut it into neat pieces. Spread upon these a thin covering of lean ham minced and pounded, and roll them up. Place them at the bottom of a pie-dish, and put a layer of oysters upon them. Repeat until the: dish is full. Stew the bones and trimmings of the veal in stock or water, thicken the liquor with flour and butter, and add the oyster liquor. Pour the strained gravy, over the meat, and keep back a portion to put into the pie when it is baked. Cover the pie with pastry, and bake in the usual way. ‘ime to bake the pie, an hour and.a half to two hours. : Veal Pie with Pork.—Take equal quan- tities of veal and pork in slices half an inch thick, cut the meat into neat pieces, and season these with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Boil two onions, mince them finely, and mix with them a tea-spoonful of chopped parsley and another of shred sage. Fill the dish with alternate layers of veal and pork, and sprinkle a little of the savoury mixture over each layer. Pour half a tea-cupfud of veal stock or water over the meat, cover with pastry, and bake in the usual way. Time to bake tho pie, an hour and a half to two hours. Veal Pie with Potatoes (Coup Mrar Cooxrry).—Cut some cold dressed veal into small neat pieces, and slice double the quan- VEA { 1060 ) VEA tity of small cold boiled potatoes. Butter a pie-dish, and fill it with alternate layers of cold meat and sliced potatoes. Season each layer with pepper and salt, grated nutmeg, and grated lemon-rind, and lay little pieces of butter here and there upon it. Cover the meat with good pastry, and bake in a weil-heated oven. When the pastry is done enough, the pie will be ready for serving. Veal Pie with Sausage.—Take some cutlets half an inch thick from the fillet of veal. Season these with pepper, salt, and powdered mace, and fill a dish with alternate layers of the cutlet and of Bologna sausage thinly sliced. The veal will yield sufficient gravy to moisten the pie. Cover with good pastry, and bake in the usual way. This pie is excellent eaten cold. Veal Pie with Sweetbreads.—Take a pound and a half of veal and a sweetbread. Cut the veal into pieces an inch and a half square, and season these as in the previous re- cipes. Soak the sweetbread for an hour, throw it into boiling salted water, and boil for a quarter of an hour. Cut it into slices. Butter the pie- dish, fill it with alternate layers of veal and sweetbread, and lay upon the surface three or four hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Intersperse amongst the pieces of meat, oysters, mushrooms, or forcemeat balls. Pour over the meat a small quantity of gravy made from the bones and trimmings of the veal stewed in cold water till the stock will jelly when cold, and flavoured with lemon, sweet herbs, and ketchup. Have ready some nicely-seasoned gravy to pour into the pie when it is baked. Cover and bake the pie in the usual way. Time to bake the pie, one hour and a half to two hours, Veal Pies, Raised (small). —Take the lean part of the best end of a neck of veal, with half its weight in thinly-sliced ham. Divide the meat into pieces an inch square. Put the bones and trimmings of the meat into a sauce- pan, cover them with water, add flavouring ingredients, and stew the liquor till it is plea- santly flavoured and so strong that it will jelly when cold. Put the veal into a stewpan, cover it with the strained stock, and add half a quarter ‘of a pint of cream and a few mushrooms, if these can be obtained. Let the veal simmer ‘gently for an hour, then let it get cold. Line some small paté moulds. Fill them with the preparation, cover them, and bake till done enough. Serve cold. Time to bake the pies, according to size, say till a skewer will pierce them easily. Veal, Pilau of.—Wash a pound of rice, throw it into boiling water, and boil it quickly for five minutes. Drain it, put it into a stew- pan with four ounces of butter, and stir over a brisk fire till the rice is equally and lightly coloured without being at all burnt. Pour over it a pint and a half of stock or water, and let it simmer very gently till the grains are tender. Sprinkle a little curry powder over the rice, and stir it with a fork. Spread a little on a dish. Place upon it a few dressed veal cutlets or a small breast of veal, which has been partially roasted, cut into neat pieces, and stewed in rich gravy. Arrange a few rashers of fried bacon round the veal, cover the meat with rice, brush over with beaten egg, and place it in the oven till it is brown and hot throughout. Garnish the dish with forcemeat balls, and serve hot. Time, altogether, two hours and a half to three hours. Veal Pluck.—Take « calf’s heart with the liver and lights. Wash the heart in several waters, let it soak for half an hour, drain and dry it, fill it with good veal forcemeat, tie thin slices of fat bacon round it, and roast or bake it. Soak the liver and lights, boil them for an hour, and mince them. Put this mince intoa stewpan with a little pepper and salt, the thin rind of half a lemon, half a blade of mace, and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Cover with gravy, and let it simmer gently till done enough. Season’ with pepper and salt, and add a table-spoonful of chopped parsley, a table-spoonful of ketchup, and a little strained lemon-juice. Slice the remainder of the liver, and fry in the usual way (see Liver, Fried). Place the mince upon a dish, put the heart upon it, and garnish the dish with the fried liver, fried rashers of bacon, toasted sippets, and parsley. Serve very hot, and send good brown gravy to table with it. Time, one hour and a half to roast the heart; half an hour to simmer the mince in the gravy. Veal Pot Pie (economical family dish).—- Take two pounds of the breast or scrag of veal, or, if preferred, two pounds of cold dressed veal. Cut it into small pieces convenient for serving, and with it half a pound of pickled pork. Put it into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and let it simmer gently till tender. If the veal has been cooked, the bones and trimmings of the meat only ought to be stewed. Put the meat into a dish, and let it cool. Line the edges of a large pie-dish with good plain pastry or with bread dough rolled to the thickness of half an inch. Put in the meat with six or eight potatoes, and dredge a table-spoonful of flour over it, with a tea-spoonful of pepper. Strain the gravy upon it, adding water if necessary to make the quantity up to one quart. Cut off as much pastry as is required to cover the dish, and lay the remainder in slices upon the meat. Put some skewers across to support the pastry, and place the cover on the top. Press the edges securely, make a slit in the centre that the steam may escape, and bake the pie in a well-heated oven. When serving turn the pastry on a dish, place the meat upon it, and pour the gravy over all. Wholesome pastry may be made as follows: —Put two pounds of flour into a bow), mix with it a tea-spoonful of salt, make a hole in the centre, and stir into it a tea-spoonful of powdered saleratus dissolved in a cupful of water. Make it into soft dough with sour milk. Veal Pottage.—Cut away from a knuckle of veal all the meat that can be stewed or made useful in any way, then break the bone into four or five pieces, and put these into a stewpan with an onion stuck with two cloves, a small blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, six or eight peppercorns, VEA ( 1061 ) VEA and a little bacon-rind. Pour over these ingre- dients five pints of cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully, draw the saucepan to the side, and let its contents sim- mer gently. When sufficiently boiled strain it into a pan, and let it stand till the next day. Remove the fat from the top, take up the jelly free from sediment, and boil vegetables, such as celery, artichokes, or turnips, in it till tender. Rub the vegetables through a hair sieve, and mix the pulp with the liquor. Stir into it half a spoonful of flour which has been mixed to a smooth paste with half a pint of cream or milk. Let the soup boil a few minutes ; add pepper and salt to taste, and serve. ‘Time, five hours to boil the stock. Veal, Potted.—Take about a pound of dressed veal free from skin, bone, fat, and gristle. Cut it into small pieces, and mince finely. Put itina mortar, and whilst pounding keep adding gradually as much pepper, salt, and pounded mace as will season and flavour it pleasantly, together with about two ounces of butter broken into small pieces, and a spoonful or two of strong veal gravy made by stewing the bones and trimmings of the veal in water. Pound the preparation till it is a perfectly smooth paste, press it into small jars, and cover with a layer of clarified butter or dripping @ quarter of an inch thick. The addition of a quarter of a pound of lean ham will greatly improve this dish. Let it stand twenty-four hours before using it, and store in a cool dry place. Veal, Potted, made with Fresh Meat.—Take a thick slice of lean undressed veal. Season with pounded mace or grated nutmeg and white pepper; put it into a pot- ting-pan that will just hold it, pour cold water over, cover closely, and bake gently till quite tender. Let it get cold, cut it small, and pound it in a mortar till smooth. If to be used at once, quickly moisten with a little of its own . If to be kept a short time, add a little clarified butter only. Press it into jars, and cover with melted butter or suet a quarter of an inch thick. Store in a cool dry place. Time to bake the veal, three hours. Veal, Potted, with Tongue. — Take three-quarters of a pound of cold dressed veal free from fat, skin, and gristle, and a quarter of a pound of boiled tongue. Mince these ingre- dients finely, and pound them to a perfectly smooth soft paste. Add very gradually whilst pounding five ounces of clarified butter, a small tea-spoonful of white pepper, half a spoonful of freshly-made mustard, a tea-spoontul of the essence of anchovy, and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Add salt if required, but it is probable that the tongue will make the meat salt enough. Press the meat into small pot- ting-jars, cover with clarified butter or drip- ping, and store in a cool dry place. Veal Pudding.—Line a shallow pudding- basin with suet crust rolled to the thickness of half an inch, and leave the pastry an inch over the edge. Fill the dish with alternate layers of lean veal cut into neat pieces and ham thinly sliced, and sprinkle ~ver each layer a little | pepper and salt, and add pounded mace. Pour a ' quarter of a pint of veal gravy over the meat; lay a cover of pastry on the top, moisten the edge of _ the piece of pastry, draw it over the cover, and press the two closely together. Wring a pud- ding-cloth out of boiling water, flour it, and tie the basin loosely in it. Plunge it into fast- boiling water, and boil quickly until done enough. Take it up, let it stand afew minutes, turn it upon a dish, and serve very hot. A pound and a half of lean veal and half a pound of ham will make a moderate-sized pudding. Time to boil the pudding, two hours to two hours and a half. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for four persons. Veal Pudding, Baked.—Take half a pound of cold roast veal carefully treed from skin, fat, and gristle, and finely minced. Mix thoroughly with it a tea-spoonful of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and the grated rind of half a lemon. Pour half a pint of nicely-flavoured boiling gravy (made by stewing the trimmings of the veal in water) over two ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs. Let this cool, then stir into it the minced veal, and add three well-beaten eggs. Whisk the mixture briskly for a minute or two, turn it into a well-buttered dish, and bake in a moderate oven. If liked, the crumbs may be soaked in cream instead of gravy. Time to bake the pudding, one hour. Probable cost, 10d., exclu- sive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal Quenelles (an entrée). — Take a slice of lean veal from the leg, cut it in long thin slices, and scrape it with a knife till nothing but the fibre remains. Put it in a mortar, pound for ten minutes, then pass it through a wire sieve upon a plate. Put back in a mortar six ounces of the veal thus prepared, also four ounces of panada, and three ounces of fresh butter. Pound thesc ingredients together till they’ are perfectly blended and form a smooth paste, and add gradually a little pepper, salt, and pounded mace or grated nutmeg. The more the forcemeat is pounded the better it will be. Moisten gradually with two whole eggs, and pound it again. Poach a small ball in boiling water to see if the forcemeat is light, fine, and delicately flavoured. If it is not sufficiently firm, add the yolk only of another egg. The white will only serve to render the quenelles hollow and puffy inside. A smali quantity of white sauce will improve the force- meat, which should be kept in a cool place till wanted. Half an hour before the quenelles are to be served mould the forcemeat with a dessert- spoon (see Quenelles), and throw them into fast-boiling water slightly salted. When they are done enough take them up, put them on a dish, pour on them half a pint of nicely-flavoured white sauce, and serve very hot. Mushrooms or truffles may be added to the sauce if liked. Time to poach the quenelles, about a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, veal, 1s. 1d. per pound. Sufficient for a small dish. Veal Quenelles (another way).—Take the fleshy part of veal, cut it into slices, and scrape it with a knife till you have got off all the meat without the sinews. About half a VEA ( 1062 ) VEA pound of this rasped meat is sufficient for a dish. Boil a calf’s udder, either in your stock- pot or in plain water. When it is done and has become cold, trim all the upper part, cut it into small pieces, and pound it in a mortar till it can be rubbed through a sieve. All that part which has been thus strained through the sieve you make into a ball of the same size as the meat, which you have also rolled into a ball; you then make a panada. You must have three balls, one of udder, one of meat, and one of panada. Veal Rissoles.—Take about three-quar- ters of a pound of cold roast veal, free from skin, gristle, and fat, and a quarter of a pound of ham or bacon. Cut the meat into slices, then mince very finely. Mix with the meat half a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of pepper, the eighth part of a nutmeg grated, a dessert-spoonful of chopped parsley, and three table-spoonfuls of :grated bread-crumbs. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and. bind. them together with the yolk of an egg beaten up with a little cream, muk, or strong unsalted gravy: Form the paste into balls.the size. of.a.small walnut... Flour the balls, then. dip, them, into beaten egg and bread-crumbs; let them stand an hour, then dip them.in again. . Fry them in plenty of hot fat till they are. lightly browned all over. Drain them,. serve on a hot. dish with good gravy.poured round but not.upon them, and place fried rashers of bacon round them. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley. Time to fry the rissoles, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 6d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal Rissoles (another way).—Take some cold veal, a little cold ham, some parsley,.a small quantity of thyme, a little lemon-peel, and one anchovy; chop them all very small, and mix them with a few bread-crumbs, pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg to taste. Wet them with an egg, and make them into little balls or pyramids; then dip them in egg, and roll them in bread-crumbs; fry them brown, and serve with a good beef-gravy in the dish. Beef may be done in the same way. - Veal Rissoles, Gravy for.—Put the bones of the veal broken up small, with the trimmings and any other bones that are to be had, into a saucepan with a slice of fresh butter and a large onion finely minced. Shake the saucepan over the fire till the onion is lightly browned, then pour upon them as much thin flour and water as will barely cover them. Add a.bunch of parsley, .a: blade of mace, an inch of .lemon-rind, six. or eight peppercorns, and.a.little sugar browning; cover the sauce- | pan closely, and .let ,its contents simmer gently until the stock is strong: and pleasantly flavoured. Strain and cool it, then clear it from fat. Add a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, two table-spoonfuls of cream, and also a little pepper and salt. Let it boil up, and it will be ready for serving. Time, about an hour anda half to simmer the gravy. Veal, Roast.—Veal requires to be roasted carefully if it is to be nicely browned. It is always best to fasten a sheet of oiled or buttered paper over the joint. Hang it close to a clear | fire, and at the end of twenty minutes draw it back and let it’ roast slowly till done enough. Baste with good dripping every quarter of an hour. Twenty minutes before it is taken up remove the paper, dredge a little flour over the joint, and baste with fresh butter melted for the purpose ina spoon. Sprinkle a little salt over it five minutes before serving. Those joints which are not stuffed should have forcemeat balls sent to table with them. Ham, bacon, tongue, or pickled pork should accompany roast veal. -A little brown gravy should be poured over the joint, and a little more served in the tureen. Veal, Roast (41a Languedocienne).—Roast a joint of veal in the usual way, and baste liberally with good dripping. Half an hour before taking it up, baste with a mixture of oil and vinegar in which two anchovies and five or six peppercorns have been infused. When the veal is to be served, skim the gravy, and pour it round the veal in the dish. . Veal, Roast, Sauce for.—Brown sauce is generally served ,with: roast veal (sce Veal, Gravy: for), and clear brown gravy, melted butter coloured. with. ketchup, tomato, sorrel sauce, and béchamel are also served with it. Or a sauce may be prepared as follows :—Mince an.anchovy,and boil it with a minced shallot in good, stock till the anchovy is dissolved. Strain it, stir into it a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice and a glassful of port, let it boil, then mix it with the gravy in the dish. Time, about twenty minutes to simmer the gravy. Veal Roll, Baked.—Mince finely from two to. three pounds of undressed lean veal and one pound of.good: streaky bacon. Add to the. mince a salt-spoonful of white pepper, the grated rind of a small lemon, half a tea-spoon- ful of minced thyme, a minced shallot, an ounce of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and a little salt— the quantity to be regulated by.the quality of the bacon. Form the mince into a roll, cover with oiled paper, and wrap it in‘ coarse paste made of flour and water. Bake in a, moderate oven. Turn it out, and serve;with good brown sauce poured round it (see Veal Forcemeat, a of). Time to bake the roll, about two ours. Veal Rolls, Fried.—Take the remains of cold roast.veal. Cut from it half a dozen slices of lean. meat half an inch thick. Brush these over with egg, cover with a thin slice of fat bacon, egg again, spread forcemeat upon them, and -roll tightly. Skewer sccurely, ege and bread-crumb the rolls, and fry till they are brightly browned. Serve on a hot dish, and pour mushroom sauce or brown gravy over them. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley. Time to fry the rolls, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 8d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for three or four persons. Veal Sausages.—Take cqual quantities of lean veal and fat bacon. Mince finely, anil to every pound of meat, add a tea-spoonful ‘of minced sage and a little pepper and salt. ' Mix these ingredients thoroughly. Bind the mixture together with yolk of egg, and form it into VEA ( 1063 ): VEA rolls or.flat cakes, and fry or bake these in the usual way. Two or three anchovies ‘may be added to the mince if approved. Veal Sausages with Pork.—Take equal quantities of veal and;pork. : Mince them, first separately and afterwards together, and. with them half their weight in beef suct tree from skin and fibre. Wath every pound of meat put a,tea-spaonful of powdered sage; and season the mixture rather highly. with pepper and. salt. Clean. and fill the skins in the usual way, : and the sausages are made. ...If they.are to be used immediately, alittle crumb of: bread soaked, in water may be beaten up with them. Veal Scallops, Fried.—Take about two pounds of veal from the fillet. Trim away the fat,’ gristle, and skin, and cut it into rounds half an inch thick and the size of a crown piece. Flatten these with the cutlet-bat, and season with u little pepper and salt. Butter the frying-pan thickly, put in the scallops side by side, and fry till they are brightly browned on both sides. Take them up, and keep them hot in the oven till the sauce isready. Dredge a table- spoonful of flour into the fat in the frying-pan, stir for a minute, and moisten the paste with three-quarters of a pint of stock. Let it boil, and pour into it the gravy which has come from, the scallops. Stir into the sauce a table-spoon-' ful of chopped: parsley. Take it from the fire, dissolve a slice of fresh butter in it, pour it over the veal, and serve. Time, eight to ten minutes to fry the scallops. Veal ‘Scallops, White.—Prepare the scallops asin: the last recipe (sce Veal Scallops, Fried);and fry them in elarified butter, taking care that though thoroughly cooked they do not acquire.any-colour. Drain them, arrange them: inia circle on a dish, pour good white sauce round them, and put dressed celery, dressed. artichokes, or fried potatoes in the centre: of? the dish. : Veal, Scallops of, Cold.—Mince ‘the meat very small, and set it over the fire.for a few minutes with some nutmeg, pepper, salt, and a little cream ; then put it into the scallop- shells, and fill them up with crumbs of bread, over which put some bits of butter, and brown them before the fire. Veal, Shoulder of.—Owing, no doubt, to the fact that the meat on this joint is rather coarse, the shoulder of veal is not so highly valued as other portions, and is seldom served, excepting asa family dish. It is occasionally plainly boiled, but is more frequently stuffed and roasted or braised. The knuckle should always be cut off and used to enrich the stew or to make gravy. Probable cost, if bought whole, 84d. per pound; if cut, 9d. Veal, Shoulder éf, Boiled.—Cut off the knuckle, and draw out the bones. Rub the under part with a cut lemon, and sprinkle over it pepper, salt, and chopped parsley. . Roll the meat, and skewer it neatly. Putitintoastewpan, cover with milk and water, and let it simmer gently till done enough. Carefully remove the acum as it rises, or the appearance of the dish will be spoilt. Send good onion sauce to table with it, and serve boiled bacon or pickled pork on a separate dish. This dish is by most people considered insipid. Time, twenty minutes to ‘the pound. , Probable cost, 84d. per pound, if bought whole. Veal, Shoulder of, Boned. — Tho ‘butcher will, if desired, perform the operation of boning, which is rather troublesome to those not accustomed to it. Lay the joint’ upon the ‘table, skin downwards. With a sharp knife ‘detach the flesh from the blade-bone first on one side and then on the other, and be especially careful. not to pierce the outer skin. When the bone is quite free, loosen it from the socket, and draw it out. The bone of the knuckle is some- times left in, but when it is necessary to re- move it the same rules need to be observed.. The knife must be worked close to the bone, and the outer skin must not bepierced. An excellent grill may be made of the blade-bone if a little of the meat is left on it. | Veal, Shoulder of; Braised (to eat ‘cold).—Take a whole shoulder of veal weighing ‘about nine-pounds. .Cut off the knuckle, and bone the joint entirely without piercing the ‘skin. Place the joint on the table skin down- wards, trim neatly, cut away some of the meat to make it even, sprinkle salt and pepper upon it, and spread over it a layer two inches and a, half thick of good forcemeat made with equal parts of lean veal and fat bacon minced, ‘pounded, and pressed through a sieve, and sea- soned with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; two or three finely-minced trufiles may, ifliked, _be added to the forcemeat. Fold the shoulder ‘over to enclose the forcemeat, bind it with tape, .and roll it:in amapkin. Tie the ends securely, and fasten string round the. roll, to,keep it in shape. Place the veal in a braising-pan upon -abed of sliced vegetables; put, with it the bones and..trimmings of. the veal, including the knuckle, also. two blanched calf’s feet, the blanched rind. of the bacon which, was used for the foxcemeaty. and a little pepper and, salt. Pour. oyer.all as much boiling stock,as will barely.cover the. veal, put.it on the fire, let it boil up, skim carefully, and simmer gently for four hours. Take it from the fire, but let it remain in the liquor till cool. Take 1t up, remove the napkin, tie it in a fresh one, and place upon it a dish with a weight. Let it re- main until the next day. Remove the napkin, brush the veal over two or’ three times with ‘liquid ‘glaze, and serve it, garnished’ with ‘parsley, aspic jelly, &e. This jelly may be made of the liquor in which the shoulder was simmered, strained, freed from fat, and clarified. Tho calf’s feet which were stewed with the veal may be served with sauce on a separate dish see Calf’s Foot 4 1a'Poulettc). This is a good ie for a picnic or for a cold collation. Time to simmer the veal, four hours. Veal, Shoulder of, Stuffed and Roasted.—Cut the knuckle from a shoulder of veal, draw out the blade-bone, and fill the -cavity thus made with good veal forcemeat. If preferred, the blade-hone may be left in, and ‘the forcemeat spread over the part where the ‘inuckle. was cut off, and ‘also under the flap. VEA ( 1064 ) VEA The broad end of the shoulder must then be turned and skewered over the forcemeat. Tie a piece of oiled or greased paper over the joint, hang it tolerably near a clear fire, and at the end of twenty minutes draw it back and roast it gently until done enough. Baste every quarter of anhour. Twenty minutes before it is taken up remove the paper, dredge the joint with flour, and baste till it is nicely browned. Place it on adish, pour good brown sauce round it, and serve with a cut lemon on a plate. Send ham or bacon to table with it. Time to roast a shoulder of veal, three hours to three hours and a half. Probable cost, 84d. per pound, if bought whole. Veal, Shoulder of, Stuffed and Stewed.— Remove the blade-bone from a shoulder of veal. Season the insido with salt, cayenne, and-grated nutmeg, sprinkle over it minced savoury herbs, such as parsley and chives, together with a few mushrooms, and spread over these thin slices of ham or bacon. Roll the veal, and bind it tightly with tape. Put it in a saucepan which will just hold it over a clear fire with a slice of butter or a piece of dripping, and turn it about till lightly browned all over, or, if preferred, roast it for an hour anda half. Take it up, put it intoa deep dish, cover with good stock, and add two onions, a sliced carrot, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, and a little pepper and salt. Stew the veal very gently in a moderate oven till it is so tender that a skewer will pierce it easily. Strain and skim the gravy, and thicken a portion of it with a little brown thickening. Place the veal on a dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with sliced lemon and parsley. Stewed mushrooms, green peas, and various kinds of dressed vege- tables may be served with this dish. Some cooks, instead of first browning the meat, put it at once into a dish, pour stock over it, surround it with herbs, onions, carrots, &c., then cover the dish with a coarse paste of flour and water, and bake the veal in a moderate oven. Though the taste of the veal thus dressed is excellent, its appearance is not so good as when it is browned as above. Time to bake the veal, a shoulder which weighs ten pounds before it is boned will need five hours. Probable cost, 84d. per pound. Veal Soup.— Take two pounds of the fmuckle of veal. Divide it into three or four pieces, and put these into a stewpan with any bones or trimmings of veal or poultry that may be at hand, and add a quarter of a pound of lean ham, a few cuter sticks of celery, an onion with a clove stuck into it, a small blade of mace, six or eight peppercorns, alittle salt, and two table-spoonfuls of rice. Pour over these ingredients about five pints of cold stock or water, and let the soup simmer gently trom three to four hours. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Strain the stock, season and flour as much of it as may be required for table with salt, white pepper, lemon-juice, and pounded mace, and thicken with white thickening. If preferred, this soup may be served with the boiled rice in it, and with sippets or forcemeat balls. The veal may be cut into neat pieces and served with parsley and butter or egg sauce. Veal Soup (a German recipe).—Should the breast of veal be chosen, allow one pound to every quart of water; in the case of knuckle of veal, allow two pounds to the quart. Let the water come slowly to the simmering point, add salt, and skim well; continue simmering for at least two hours. Add rice,.sago, or klésse to give the soup substance. Ten minutes before sending to table, add in small pieccs cauliflower, scorzonera, or asparagus, previously cooked. Finely-minced chives may be thrown in the last thing, or an onion may be boiled in the soup, and taken out before the other vegetable is added. Veal Soup (a plain family dish).—Take about four pounds of the knuckle of veal, and cut it into five or six pieces, sawing through the bones neatly. Put these in a stewpan, pour over them as much cold water as will freely cover them, and let the liquor boil. Skim carefully, draw it to the side, and let it simmer for an hour. Throw in with it five or six tur- nips, two onions, and a few outer sticks of celery, and let it simmer gently for another hour. Mix a table-spoonful of flour or ground rice to a smooth paste with cold water, stir a little of the boiling liquor into it, and add it to the rest. Let it boil a short time longer. Half an hour before the soup is to be served throw into it a pinch of powdered mushrooms, six or eight sliced potatoes; and ten or fifteen minutes before it is served put in half a dozen small dumplings. Add pepper and salt to taste. Serve the veal on a dish with the dumplings and vegetables round it, and send the soup to table in a tureen. If liked, a little sugar browning may be added to the soup to colour it. Tite, three hours to simmer the soup. Probable cost, 2s. 8d. Sufficient for seven or eight per- sons. Veal Soup with Rice or Forcemeat Balls.—The veal is to be blanched in the usual way, but the water in which it has been seethed is not to be thrown away, as it contains some of the strength of the meat; but take out the meat, clean it, and lay it in cold water to become perfectly white. Then pass the water used in the boiling through a sieve, pour it over the veal, and boil the whole together. Having clarified the liquor by skimming, add a piece of butter, some salt, and half a lemon, which tastes excellently with rice; on serving,. beat eggs into the liquor, to which add rice mixed with a piece of butter, and mace grated over it: it makes a very beautiful strong soup. ‘When forcemeat balls are used instead of the rice, they should be boiled in a basin, and added to the soup, along with the meat and vegetable roots; beating up the soup with eggs, and grating nutmeg over it. Veal Stew.—Take about four pounds of veal, the chump end of the loin, or part of the leg, or a portion of the breast from which the bones have been removed will answer excel- lently for the purpose. Cut it into neat pieces about two inches square, or if preferred let it VEA ( 1065 ) VEA remain whole. :.Rub it over with butter, then put it into a stewpan with two moderate-sized onions thinly sliced, and turn it about over a clear fire till it is brightly browned. Dredge flour upon it, put with it the juice and thin rind of halt a lemon, a lump of sugar, and a little pepper and salt, and then cover with somc nicely-flavoured veal gravy. Cover the sauce- pan closely, and let its contents stew very gently till the meat is tender without being too much dressed. Pour most of the gravy into a clean saucepan, thicken it with a tea-spoonful of brown thickening, or with a table-spoonful of flour mixed smoothly with a little cold water, and a tea-spoonful of sugar browning. Add a dessert-spoonful of ketchup, half a glassful of sherry, and a few stewed mushrooms if these are tobe had. Put the meat into the thickened gravy, let it get quite hot, then serve on a hot dish with the gravy poured over it. Fresh or pickled cucumber may accompany this dish. The gravy may be made by stewing the bones and trimmings of the veal for an hour or more in a quart.of water with a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a blade of mace, and six or eight peppercorns. Time to stew the veal, one hour and a half to two hours. Probable cost, 4s. 10d., exclusive of the wine. Veal Stew, Piquant.—Take two pounds of lean veal from the fillet. Cut these into pieces half an inch square, season with salt and pepper, dredge them with flour, and fry in butter till lightly browned. Fry with them a moderate-sized cucumber sliced and floured, a quarter of a pint of green gooseberries opened and seeded, a shred lettuce, and a few onions if liked. Move the vegetables about whilst they are being fricd to keep them from burning. Lift the ingredients into a saucepan, pour over them gradually as much boiling stock or water as will barely cover them. Let them simmer gently till the meat is tender. Serve very hot. Time to stew the veal, &c., about an hour. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Suf- ficient for four or five persons. Veal Stew with Green Peas.—Stew the vealas before. Add to the other ingredients a pint or more of freshly-shelled green peas. Let the veal stew till it is three-parts dressed, put in with it a lettuce finely shred, and let it stew half an hour after this is added. Thicken the gravy, and serve the veal on a hot dish with the gravy and peas poured over it. Time, about two hours. Veal Tea for Infants and Invalids. Take a pound of lean veal, cut it into small pieces, sprinkle a pinch of salt over it, put it into a saucepan, and pour upon it a pint of cold water. Let it boil, and skim carefully, then simmer gently for an hour. Pour it out, strain it, and it will be ready for use. To thicken it, mix a tea-spoonful of arrowroot with a table- spoonful of cold water, and stir the boiling tea slowly into this, or boil a spoonful of arrowroot or sago in the liquor a quarter of an hour before using it. A little new milk may be added to the tea occasionally for the sake of variety. Time ‘to simmer the tea, one hour. ‘ Probable cost, veal, 11d. per pound. ‘The above ingre- pean are sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of ca. Veal, Tendons of.—The tendons of veal are the gristly portions found at the extremity of the bones towards the thick end of a breast of veal. They are frequently cut off (care being taken not to spoil the appearance of the joint), and served on a separate dish ag an entrée. When the breast of veal is large it is well that this should be done, as they are often lost by being underdressed. They must, of course, be cut off the meat before it is dressed. The place where the tendons begin and the ribs end is shown by a line of white gristle. Veal, Tendons of (a la Provengale).— Take the tendons of a breast of veal, and cut them in pieces two inches square. Pour four ounces of salad oil into a good-sized saucepan, andadd two moderate-sized onions finely minced, a clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and a little pepper and salt. Put the pan on a slow fire, and ‘place lighted embers on the lid that the cooking process may be carried on above as well as below. Stir the preparation frequently, and let it simmer gently till the gristles are tender. Pour in half a pint of stock, boil for five minutes, and without skim- ming the fat from the gravy. Serve the tendons in a dish with the gravy poured over them. Veal, Tendons of, Curried. — Take the tendons from one or two breasts of veal, being careful in doing so not to spoil the joint for stewing or roasting. Put them into a deep stewpan with two carrots, two onions (each stuck with a clove), a strip of lemon-rind, a bay- leaf, a bunch of parsley, and a sprig of thyme. Pour over them a pint of good stock, and let them simmer gently till tender. Take them up carefully with a skimmer, pull out any hard parts that may remain, and press them between two dishes till cold. Strain the liquor in which they were stewed, and when it is cool free it from fat. Slice two onions, and fry them in butter with a finely-minced apple. Stir these in a saucepan over the fire till they are soft, rub them through a sieve, and mix with the pulp a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, a tea-spoon- ful of curry powder, and a dessert-spoonful of ground rice. Add the stock gradually, and stir the sauce over the fire till it boils. Cut the tendons into rounds, squares, or diamonds half an inch thick, and about an inch and a half across. Put them into the curry sauce, and let them remain until they are heated through. Dish them alternately with fried rashers of bacon in a circle on a hot dish, and pour the curry sauce over and round them. Send rice boiled for curry to table on a separate dish. Time, four hours to simmer the tendons. Probable cost, uncertain, the tendons being sold with the breast of veal. Veal Tendons, Fried.—Stew the ten- dons in the usual way, and place them between two dishes till cold. Cut them into slices half an inch thick. Brush them over with beaten ogg, dip,them into bread-crumbs, and fry them over a slow fire of a pale brown. Serve very hot. ‘Take half a pint of the sauce in which they were stewed, stir into it two table-spoonfuls VEA ( 1066 ) VEA of chopped mushrooms, two table-spoonfuls of sherry, and the yolk of an egg beaten up with three table-spoonfuls of cream. Stir this sauce over the fire till it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Dish the fried tendons in a circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce into the centre, and serve very hot. Sometimes the sauce is thickened with yolk of egg and allowed to get cold, then the sliced tendons are dipped. into it, afterwards into bread-crumbs, and fried as before. Time, four hours to sim- mer the tendons. . Veal Tendons, Fried (a la Villeroi).— Stew the tendons in the usual way, and when they are tender put them between two dishes till cold. Cut them into neat slices half an inch thick and aboutan inch and a half square, and place them in a marinade of equal parts of oil and vinegar, with a sliced onion and a strip of Jemon-rind put under them, and a little pepper and salt sprinkled over them. Let them remain in this for three hours. Drain and dry them, dip them in frying batter, and fry till they are brown. Serve in a circle, with tomato sauce in the centre of the dish. Time, four hours to simmer the tendons. Veal Tendons, Stewed.—-Cut the ten- dons off the breast of veal, leaving the flap of meat on the ribs, and divide them into pieces six inches long. Wrap these in slices of fat ‘bacon, tie them with twine, and place them ina saucepan on a bed of sliced vegetables, consist- ing of a carrot,,a turnip, an onion, a few outer sticks of celery, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, eight peppercorns, three cloves, a blade of mace, a strip of lemon-rind, and a little salt. Pour over them as much stock or water as will cover them, and let them simmer gently till they look almost transparent and are so tender that they can be pierced easily with a skewer. Take them-up carefully, put them between two dishes, and leave them till cold. Strain the gravy in which they were simmered, remove the fat from it, and boil till it is considerably reduced. Trim the ten- dons, heat them in their own gravy, glaze them with it, dish them ina circle, pour a little of the gravy round them, and send the rest to table in atureen. Serve dressed vegetables in the centre of the dish. Green peas, stewed spinach, stewed sorrel, mixed vegetables, and artichoke purée may accompany them, also tomato or mushroom sauce. Time to simmer the tendons, four hours. Probable cost, uncertain, tendons being usually sold with the breast of veal. Veal Tendons, Stewed, and served with Mixed Vegetables. — Stew the tendons as before. arm them in gravy, glaze them, and serve in a circle on a dish with a mixture of vegetables boiled separately and heated in a little good white sauce. Time to stew the tendons, about four hours. Veal, To Keep.-—Asveal when once tainted cannot be recovered like beef or mutton, it is important that every precaution should be taken to preserve it-in good condition till it is dressed. It should be kept ina cool larder, and examined daily. It should be kept hanging, too, for if it is laid on a dish the pressure alone will cause it to taint. The pipe-which runs along the chine of the loin and the kernels from the fat should be removed as soon as possible. The skirt of the breast, too, should..be taken off, and the inside wiped and dredged with flour. The part of the leg.which-becomes most quickly tainted is that wherethe udder lies. ‘The skewer should therefore beremoved, and that-portion examined every day.. If there is any indication that veal is likely to become tainted, it should be plunged into boiling water, boiled quickly for ten minutes, then dried thoroughly, hung in a cool larder, and dressed. as soon as possible. ' Veal Tongue, To Preserve.—Trim the tongue, and put it into boiling water for a quarter of an hour. Drain and dry it, take off the skin, and rub thoroughly with salt which has been mixed with a small proportion of salt- petre and a few savoury herbs chopped small. Put it into an earthen jar, sprinkle a handful of chopped herbs upon it, and lay a weight upon it to keep it under the brine. Keep it in a cool, well-ventilated place, and turn and rub it every day for ten days. Drain and dry it, put it ina large polony-skin properly cleansed, and tie it securely at both ends. If it is to be smoked, hang it over a small fire of juniper wood, upon which aromatic herbs are occasionally thrown. Veal, Vol-au-Vent of.--Make a vol-au- vent case the size and shape of the dish in which it is to be served, and bake in a brisk oven (see Vol-au-Vent). When done, take out the lid, scrape out the soft pastry, and put it in the oven for a few minutes to dry. Fill care- fully with a hot savoury ragotit prepared as follows :—Cut some lean veal into thin slices the size of half-a-crown. Beat these with a cutlet-bat, and fry them till they are lightly browned. Cover with rich brown thick gravy highly, flavoured led Veal, Gravy for), put with them a few fried forcemeat balls, and | serve the vol-au-vent on a napkin. Small vol- au-vents may be filled with the savoury pre- paration recommended for veal patties. Veal, Wholesomeness of:—‘‘ Veal,” says Dr. Graham, looking at the subject from the medical point of view, “is usually con- sidered not at all of a heating nature, and is therefore: allowed, perhaps generally’ by the profession, to patients convalescent from an attack of fever, and to those who have a dispo- sition to bleeding from the lungs or elsewhere, especially with the addition of some acid; but it is, in my opinion, so very indigestible an article, and has uniformly so strong a tendency to irritate the stomach and intestines, that I wholly proscribe its use wherever persons are not strong and healthy. In all stomach com- plaints it is peculiarly injurious. The flesh of calves which have been robbed of their blood by répeated bleedings, or reared by the hand with milk adulterated with chalk, and confine-. ment in small dark places so as to prevent . motion, is unusually depraved.” Veal with Cucumbers.—Roast a neck or a loin of veal, or any veal that is left. The leg part is tough and dry, as every one must know. When cold, cut it into scallops, and put it into the sauce blanquotte, . Take six fine VEG ( 1067 ) VEG cucumbers, cut them into quarters, pare them about the size of the scallops; then take the parings and some other pieces, which mince with a little onion to make a purée. Fry the onions and the trimmings of the cucumbers together in a little butter; when the cucumbers are entirely melted, moisten with sauce tournée, and stew them. on the corner of the stove for an hour; skim off the grease, and rub this sauce through a tamis. Put the ether whole cu- cumbers into some sauce tournée, and let them boil till done. Before putting the cucumbers in the sauce, they must be marinaded in a basin with a little salt and a thimbleful of white vinegar; let them remain for half an hour, and then drain them in a clean towel, and put them in the sauce, if you have any; other- wise, put them in a stewpan with a small bit of putter, a bundle of parsley, and green onions; fry ihem gently, then singe them with about a spoonful of fine white flour, and moisten with good broth; let that boil for an hour in the corner of the stove, skim all the butter, drain the cucumbers in a hair sieve, and reduce the sauce thick enough to receive the thickening. Mind, when you have no sauce in your larder, you must use the same principle to make white or brown sauce in a moment. Vegetable Consommé, made with Dried Vegetables.—Put a pint of white haricot beans and a pint of lentils into a stew- pan with an onion, a pinch of salt, a bunch of | parsley, and a small sprig of thyme. . Pour over these ingredients three quarts of water, then boil and simmer them gently for three hours. Strain the liquor. Fry the vegetables, and proceed as for Vegetable Consommé, made’ with: Fresh Vegetables. ; . Vegetable Consommé, or Vegetable Gravy Soup, made with Fresh Vege- | tables.—Dissolve in a stewpan four ounces of fresh butter. Throw into it two large carrots, two onions, two leeks, a head of celery, and a turnip, all cut small, together with a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, and a shallot. Cover the pan closely, put it on the fire, and shake it Occasionally till the vegetables are lightly coloured. Puta pint of freshly-shelled green peas into a separate stewpan with three quarts of water. Let them boil, then pour them upon the fried vegetables. Let the liquor boil, skim till it is quite clear, and put into it a crust of toasted..bread, a blade of mace, six allspice, a dozen peppercorns, and a little salt. Cover closely, and simmer gently for two hours or more. Skim off the fat, strain it into a bowl, and let it stand in a cool place until clear. When wanted, pour it off carefully, not to dis- turb any sediment that may still remain, boil VEGETABLE KNIFE. it, and serve very hot with fried sippets. If it is wished that vegetables should be served in it, cut the red part of a carrot, an onion, a turnip, and about two sticks of celery into thin strips an inch long. For this purpose a vege- table knife, such as shown in the illustration, .dom may be divided into five orders, will be found useful. Put these in a saucepan, cover with cold water, boil for five minutes, and drain them on a sieve. Pour the clear soup into a stewpan, throw in the roots, and simmer gently till they are tender. Add salt and pepper if required. Dried vegetables (see Vegetables, Dried, for Julienne Soup) may be used instead of fresh ones to throw into the soup, and will save some trouble. Vegetable Curry.—A mixture of vege- tables may be used for curry. The most suit- able are celery, onions, cauliflowers, young cabbages, cucumbers, green peas, French beans, spinach, and sorrel. Mince or slice the vege- tables. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a stewpan; roll the vegetables in curry powder, and toss them in the butter till they are half dressed. Pour over them as much cream or gravy mixed smoothly with curry powder. or paste as will cover them, and stew till tender. Add a little salt, and serve with rice boiled for curry on a separate dish. A \table-spoonful of lemon-juice is generally considered an im- provement to this dish. If liked, a small quantity of mashed. potatoes or fried onions and an apple rubbed through a sieve may be added to the curry sauce. Shrimps or prawns may also be added if approved. Time alto- gether, about an hour. : VEGETABLE CUTTER. Vegetable Cutters.—By means of these little instruments vegetables are cut into fanciful shapes, to the great improvement in appearance of those dishes in which vegetables form an important feature. Vegetable Essences, To Extract.— The flavour of various herbs may be extracted as follows:—Pick:the leaves, and put them in a warm place for an hour or two. Fill a large: wide-mouthed bottle with them, and pour upon them wine, brandy, spirits of wine, or vinegar. Let them soak for a fortnight. : Strain the liquor, and put it into small bottles for use. Vegetable Food.—The different articles of nourishment derived from the vegetable king- vig. :— (1) The different sorts of farina, or grai —for example, wheat, barley, oats, and rice; (2) the legumes, or pulse, as peas and beans; (3) the different kinds of salads and pot-herbs; (4) all the different sorts of roots; and (5) fruits. Tho following are the chief vegetable aliments and condiments, and for particulars regarding them and their uses the reader -is referred to the articles under their respective headings :— ALMOND ARTICHOKE » APPLE ASPARAGUS APRICOT BaRrwERRIES ARROWROOT Bariey ( 1068 ) VEG VEG Bran , Maneo . Bret MaPLeE o BLacKkBERRY Manricoip BREAD-FRUIT MeEpLar Brocco. MELON Brussets Sprouts Mint CABBAGE MULBERRY Carrot Musnroom CAULIFLOWER Mustarp CELERIAC NasturTIUM CELERY NECcTARINE CHERRY NUTMEG CHESTNUT Oat CHocoLaTE OLIVE Cinnamon OnIon CrTRoN ORANGE CLovEs ParsLey Cocoa-nurT Parsnip CoFrFEE Pea CRANBERRY Pracu CucuMBER Pear CurRaANtT Prerrer Damson PINE-APPLE Date PIsTACHIO-NUT ELDER PLANTAIN ENDIVE Pium FENNEL PoMEGRANATE Fic Potato Gar.ic Prune GuHERKIN PumPKIN GINGER QuincE GoosEBERRY Ravisu GRAPE ._ Ratsiw Haricor Beans RaspBeRRY Hazeq-nut Rice Hop Ryr HorsEravisu Saco JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SEA-KALE Kinney Bean Spmvacu Lreex STRawBERRY Lemon Sucar Letruce Tarioca Lime ‘TEA Marzz, on Inpran WaAtnvt Corn Yam MANGEL-WURrzEL Vegetable Haché.—Fry some onions cut in slices till they are of a pale brown. Fry them with butter, and add any kind of vege- tables previously boiled. Chop them up, and stew all together. Stir well over a slow fire, and when about half done add some sliced chillies and tomatoes. If the pan be dry put in a very little gravy. Some sorrel or a glassful of vine- gar may be added. Time to stew, half an hour. Vegetable Marrow.— ‘The vegetable marrow appears to be merely a variety, of the pumpkin, It was brought into Europe from Persia, and is now much cultivated in Britain. It is a hardy plant, and its fruit is of excellent’ quality, and useful for culinary purposes at al- most every stage of its growth. The best known sort is, when fully grown, elliptic in shape, very smooth, and generally about nine inches long, and four inches in diameter. There are, however, several other varieties, of different shapes and sizes. Vegetable Marrow, Cooking of the. —The vegetable marrow may be dressed in a variety of ways, and is wholesome and excellent | in all. Various recipes are given below. It | comes into season towards the end of summer, | and even after it is cut if it is hung by the stalk | in a cool dry place it will keep for some weeks. | The best marrows are those about six inches long. Very small marrows are likely to be de- ficient in flavour. Very large ones will be full of secd. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. each. VEGETABLE MARROW. Vegetable Marrow Fried in Bat- ter.—Pare and quarter the marrows, and boil them in the usual way for ten minutes, or until they are three - parts dressed, Drain them, sprinkle a little pepper and salt upon them, cut into slices, dip them into frying batter, and fry in hot fat till brightly browned. Lift them upon a dish, sprinkle chopped parsley over them, and serve either alone or as an accompaniment -to dressed meat. The frying batter may be made as follows :—Put six ounces of flour into a bowl, mix.a tea-spoonful of salt’ with it, and work it into a paste with a quarter of a pint of water. Add a table-spognful of oil and the well-beaten yolk of one egg, and heat the paste till it is quite smooth. Let the batter stand in a cool place for anhour. A quarter of an hour before it is-wanted add the whites of two eggs whisked to a firm froth. Vegetable Marrow in White Sauce or Gravy.—Boil a large marrow in the usual way. When three-parts cooked, take it up, cut it into squares, place these in a saucepan, and pour over thom as much white sauce or thick brown gravy as will cover them. Let them heat gently. Serve in a vegetable-dish with the sauce poured over them. Time, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost of marrows, 2d. to 6d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. Vegetable Marrow in White Sauce (another way).—Pare and quarter three good- sized vegetable marrows. Remove the seeds, cut the quarters into pieces about two inches long, and shape each piece in a point at the top and flat at the bottom. Boil until tender. Place them standing side by side on a hot dish, pour eon VEG ( 1069 ) VEG some good white sauce round them, and serve as hot as possible. Or after boiling, cut them into dice, and boil them up in some good white sauce. Time, about twenty minutes to boil the marrows. Sufficient for six persons. Probable cost of marrows, 2d. to 6d. each. Vegetable Marrow Marmalade.— Pare and seed any quantity of moderate- sized vegetable marrows, and cut them into thin slices. Weigh them, and allow a pound of loaf sugfr, the rind of half a small lemon chopped small; and a cupful of water to every pound of marrow. Boil the sugar and water to a clear syrup. Put in the marrow, and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half. Be careful that it does not burn. Strip the thick white skin from the lemons, slice them, take away the pips, mix these slices with the mar- malade, and let all boil together for a quarter ofan hour. Turn the marmalade into jars, and cover these in the usual way. An excellent imitation of preserved ginger may be made with vegetable marrow (see Ginger, Preserved, Imitation of). Vegetable Matrow Preserve.—Peel the marrows, remove all the seeds, cut the mar- rows in pieces the size of large plums, boil them with their weight in sugar till the pieces become transparent. No water whatever is required. Then flavour with ginger and lemon, or ginger or lemon, according to taste. Vegetable Marrow, Preserved. — Peel the marrows, take away the seeds, and cut the vegetable into small pieces. To every pound of marrow add half a pound of sifted loaf sugar, the rind and juice of a lemon, and half an ounce of grated ginger. Put the whole into a basin, and let it stand all night; next day pour the juice into a pan, and let it boil; then add the vegetable. Boil all together for an hour and a half, or until it becomes thick and trans- parent. If preterred it may be put into a mould, and the preserve will look very nice when turned out for use. Most vegetables may be prepared in the same way. Vegetable Marrow Sauce, for Poul- By, ae and skin the marrows, and boil till tender; then rub them through a sieve. Season the pulp with salt and cayenne, and thicken either with stock or with cream. Serve the sauce very hot. Vegetable Marrow Soup.—Pare and cut in quarters a large vegetable marrow, and remove from it the seeds. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a stewpan, and put in the marrow with a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and a large lump of sugar. Shake it over the fire for a few minutes, and moisten with as much stock or water as will cover it. Let it stew gently until tender, and rub it through a fine hair sieve. Put with it as much boiling stock as will make it of the consistency of thick gruel. Add a cupful of oiling cream or milk, and season with pepper and salt. Stir over the fire till quite hot, and serve with fried sippets. The stock may be made from bone; or the liquor in which mutton, veal, or poultry has been boiled may be used. Vegetable Marrow Soup (another way).—Boil five or six small vegetable mar- rows, peeled and cut into eight pieces, in a quart of good rich veal stock; put them into the boiling stock, and simmer gently three- quarters of an hour. Then beat the pulp through a sieve, and return it with an addi- tional pint of stock, to be made hot together. Season with pepper and salt, and just before serving the soup, stir in a breakfast-cupful of cream, which should be first made quite hot. Time, one hour. Sufficient for seven or eight persons. Vegetable Marrow -Soup (another way).—Take two pounds of vegetable marrow peeled and cut into dice about an inch square; put it into a pan with three ounces of salt butter or fat, two tea-spoonfuls of sugar, the same of salt, a little pepper, and half a pint of water. Stew gently until it is quite soft. When ina pulp stir in well two table-spoonfuls of flour; then add three pints of new milk, or two pints of milk and one of cream, or three pints of stock—but do not mix the stock and milk. Boil for ten minutes, and serve with fried toast cut into small squares. Vegetable Marrow, Spring Soup of. —Pare the marrows, remove the seeds, and cut them into small pieces; weigh, and put them into a saucepan with a piece of butter about the size of an egg, and stew gently until the marrow is reduced to a pulp. Add boiling stock, a little at a time, in the proportion of a pint of stock to a pound of marrow, weighed before cooking. Add salt, a small lump of sugar, and cayenne, and serve with toasted sippets. Time, about half an hour to simmer the marrows. Probable cost, 4d. per pint. Vegetable Marrow, Stuffed.— Peel thinly two moderate-sized marrows; then cut a thick piece off one end of each, and scoop out the seeds. Press closely into the hollows some good pork sausage meat, or if preferred some nicely-seasoned minced beef or mutton. Tie the piece which was cut off into its original position with twine. If there should be any difficulty about scooping out the seeds, the marrows may be divided into halves length- ways, and filled with sausage meat, the pieces may then be pressed closely together, and tied in three or four places with twine. Having thus prepared the marrows, lay them in a saucepan, put a slice of butter upon each, and sprinkle over them a little pepper, salt, cayenne, and grated nutmeg. Pour upon them half a pint of stock, and add a table-spoonful of vinegar. Cover the saucepan closely, and simmer the marrows as gently as possible for four hours. Baste frequently with the sauce. Lift them carefully upon a dish, skim the fat from the sauce, strain it over them, and serve. This dish may be rendered more piquant by rubbing a freshly-cut clove of garlic quickly across the saucepan before the marrows are put into it, and adding the juice of three or four ripe tomatoes pressed through muslin to the sauce. Time to stew the mar- rows, four hours. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. each. VEG ( 1070 ) VEG ' Vegetable Marrows, Boiled.—Peelthe marrows, free them from seed, cut them into six or eight pieces, and put them into boiling water ; lef them boil, gently till tender, | Lift them up carefully with a slice, put them on toast, pour melted butter or white sauce over them, and serve. No. 2. Put the marrow whole and with- out skinning it into boiling water. Let it boil until tender. Take it up, halve, pare, and seed it, lay the halves on toast, with the hollow part uppermost, and fill them with rich melted butter. “No, 3. Pare and seed the marrows, divide them into quarters, and the quarters into halves. Trim them neatly. Rub the inside ‘of & saucepan with butter. Lay the pieces of ‘marrow in it, and sprinkle over them a little peppér, salt, grated nutmeg, and pounded sugar. Pour upon them ‘half a ‘pint of veal stock, and boil gently till tender. Lift them upon a dish; add to the gravy the juice of half a Iemon and a little piece of butter; pour it over the marrow, and serve. If liked, the marrows may be stewed in milk instead of gravy, and they may be sédsoned with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Time to boil: ten to twenty minutes, if boiled in slices; if boiled whole, longer, according to size. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. each. -. Vegetable Marrows, Boiled (another way).—Peel the marrows, halve, and if very large quarter them, remove the seeds, and put them into boiling water to simmer gently until tender. Take them up with a slice, drain them, and serve upon toast. Send melted butter to table with them. in a tureen, or, failing this, a little fresh butter. Time: young marrows, fifteen to twenty minutes; old marrows, three- quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 2d. to 6d. each. Sufficient, a good-sized marrow for three or four persons. Vegetable Marrows, Fried. — Boil the marrows in the ordinary way till they are tender but quite firm. Let them get cold, and cut them into slices. Brush them over with egg, dip in finely-grated bread-crumbs, and fry till they are lightly browned. Serve very hot. The remains of dressed marrow may be served | in this way. Vegetable Marrows Marinaded and Stewed.—Take three good-sized mar- rows; pare, seed, and quarter them, sprinkle pepper and salt over them, and -pour upon em a quarter of a pint of vinegar and two table-spoonfuls of lucca oil. Let them lie in this marinade for half an hour. Drain them, put them into a stewpan, cover with good brown gravy, and stew them gently until tender. Lift them up carefully with a ‘slice, place them on a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve. Time to stew the marrows, about twenty minutes. : Vegetable Marrows, Mashed.—Boil two good-sized vegetable marrows in water till tender (see Vegetable Marrows Boiled). Take them up, drain them, turn them into a bowl, and mash them with a wooden spoon. Heat them in a saucepan with a piece. of melted butter the size of a walnut and a little pepper and salt. Marrows dressed thus are excellent served piled high in the centre of a dish of cutlets... ,. grt pe ‘Vegetable Mulisgatawny (see .Mulla- gatawny, Vegetable). . " : Vegetable Patties.—Prepare a: macé- doine of vegetables (see Vegetables, Macédoince of); moisten these with nicely-flavoured whito sauce, and put a small quantity into ready baked patty-cases (see Patties, Preparation of) Serve on a neatly-folded napkin.’ Vegetable Pie.—Scald some Windsor beans. Cut into small neat pieces some young carrots, turnips, artichoke bottoms, lettuces, mushrooms, elev and parsley, with green peas. Onions and asmall quantity of spinach may be added if liked, but any of these may be omitted. The proportions should be ro- gulated by taste and convenience. Partially stew the vegetables in gravy, and season with pepper and. salt. Trim the, edges of a dish with pastry, put in the vegetables, pour the gravy over them, and place the, cover on the top. Bake the pie in a moderate oven. Ifa maigre dish is wanted, cream, or milk slightly thickened with flour and butter, may be sed instead of gravy. : Vegetable Pudding, Economical and Good.—Shred six ounces of good beef suet very finely. Mix with it half a pound of the inside of baked potatoes, and add half a pound of the red part of carrots finely scraped, two ounces of candied peel finely: shred, four table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, and a little salt. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and moisten with one: well-beaten egg. . Tie.the pudding in a cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and boil quickly till done enough. ‘Turn it out carefully, and serve with sweet sauce, to whieh a little brandy may be added if liked. Time to boil the pudding, two and a half hours. Vegetable Ragotit.—Take the remains of cold dressed vegetables of various kinds. Cut them into small pieces, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over them, and moisten them with gravy. Put them into a buttered sauco- pan, and stir briskly over the fire with a wooden spoon till they are quite hot. Serve in a vegetable dish. ‘Time, about ten minutes to heat the vegetables. , . Vegetable Salad, Summer (see Sum- mer Vegetable Salad). : Vegetable Salads.—The remains of dressed vegetables of almost every kind may be advantageously served as a salad. The vege- tables should be sliced or minced, according to their nature, seasoned with pepper and salt, and worked lightly together with oil and vine- gar, inthe proportion of two table-spoonfuls of the former to one of the latter. Vegetable salads should be prepared an hour or two before they are wanted, so that the vegetables may become thoroughly impregnated with the sauce. By way of variety, cold meat or fish may be intro- duced; and hard-boiled eggs, sliced beetroot, &c., may be used for garnish. ' : Vegetable Soup.—Take a uni of old green peas, and boil them in a gallon of soft VEG ( 2071 ) VEG water with a small bundle of mint, sweet; herbd, mace, cloves, and white pepper. peas through a coarse sieve. Put the soup into a stewpan with four heads of celery, the - pulped peas, a small handful of spinach, one lettuce, two leeks cut small, a quart of young peas, and a little salt. Stew gently until only two quarts of the liquid remain, and the celery has become quite tender. Add a good lump of butter rolled in flour about a quarter of an hour before the stewpan is removed from the fire. Vegetable Soup (another way).— Put one onion cut in pieces into a saucepan with three ounces of butter, and brown it; then add finely-shrodded turnips, parsnips, leeks, carrots also a white carrot, if procurable), green celery, a little sorrel, one small potato, and a few French beans and green peas, all of which are to be tossed and browned in the butter, with | sufficient quantities of salt and pepper. Pour ina little water or stock, crush the vegetables slightly, then fill up with more water, and let the soup simmer for two hours, A little rice or pearl barley may with advantage. be added to, the vegetables. Care must be taken not to get the soup of too thick a consistency. Vegetable Soup, Mock.—Soak a pint of split peas in water for some hours. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan with three table-spoonfuls of rice, half a pound of sliced potatoes, two onions, and three quarts of stock made from bones. Boil all gently together till the peas are soft. Rub the peas, &c., through a sieve, add the pulp to the stock, and boil the soup again with a fine head of celery cut into inch pieces. Season the soup with pepper and salt, and boil it again till the celery is tender. Serve very hot. A table-spoonful of ketchup may be added if liked. Time, about four hours. Vegetable Soup (Purée).— Cut four ounces of lean ham into dice, and put it into the bottom of a stewpan. Lay upon it a turnip, a large carrot, a stick of celery, a leek or an onion, half a pint of haricot beans, and a pint of split peas. Place on the top of the vege- tables a slice of fresh butter: about three ounces will be a sufficient quantity. Let the butter melt; then stir the vegetables over the fre for ten minutes. Pour upon them a pint of stock made from bones, and add four ounces of Carolina rice. Let the vegetables stew till tender. Rub them through a sieve, and moisten occasionally to soften them. Mix with the pulp an additional quart of stock. Season the purée with salt and cayenne; boil it again for a short time, skim it, and serve with fried sippets. Time, about two hours. Sufficient for five or six persons. (For another vegetable soup, see Vegetable Consommé, or Gravy Soup.) « Vegetable Soup, Summer.—Take a good ‘quantity of mixed summer vegetables, such as green peas, lettuces, young onions, turnips and carrots, sorrel: and: leeks,’ to which may be added a small bunch of chervil and, parsley, a cucumber, &c. Chop the roots into small pieces, and slice the bulbs thinly. Sup- ; Boil till the: peas are quite soft, then strain.and pulp the. -tomatoes peeled (posing there tobe a'pint of mixed vegotables, put ‘them into a stewpan with a slice of fresh butter, and, turn them about.with a.wooden spoon till they begin to soften, being careful that they are ‘not allowed either to brown or to burn: Pour upon them a quart of veal stock, and:.season with salt and cayenne and a very small quan- tity of grated nutmeg. Skim the soup, and simmer gently till the vegetables are all per- fectly tender: Stir into it half.a pint of boiling cream, and.gerve with the. vegetables in the tureen. If cream.cannot be. had, a little milk and the yolk of-an egg may.-be used instead. Boil half a pint of milk, and pour it through a strainer into the soup. When the soup is to be served make the ‘turécn quite hot, and throw. into it the yolk of an egg. Beat this briskly with a table-spoonful ‘of ‘the ack out of ‘the saucepan; add ‘to'it, gradually, six'additional ‘spoonfuls. Pour in the remainder of the soup, which should not be quite at the poitit of boiling, though thoroughly hot. ‘Bere “immediately. Time, one hour and''a half. Sufficient for five Or six persons. ' Fo Aa Ae aR a Vegetable Soup, Summer (another way).—Take a pint:of green peas, which have grown too old to be: boiled in the ordinary; way, Put them into a stewpan with a,handfnl of the shells, a large onion sliced, a-sprig of mint, and a quart of stock or water.* Let them boil till tender, and rub them througha sieve. Dissolve an ounce of butter in another stewpun;. throw into this two sliced onions, a large, cucumber cut’ into dice, two lettuces cut small, and half a pint of freshly-shelled young peas. _ Pour, upon the vegetables as much stock. as.will cover them, and let them boil till tender.. Stir in the pulped liquor, season the soup with pepper and salt, boil all together, and serve. If necessary, a table-spoonful of spinach or parsley-juice may be added to improve the colour of the soup. Vegetable Soup, Vegetable Strips for.—Cut the carrots into- pieces an inch long, and pare these round and round in thin ribands till the yellow partis reached. Cut these ribands into small strips, and the carrots will be ready for the soup. Turnips also may be pared into ribands and cut into strips, and celery may be cut into thin narrow straws. The vegetables should be boiled separately in stock or water until almost tender, and then drained and thrown into the soup. If boiled entirely in the soup, they will, in all probability,’ make it look ‘cloudy. ie ‘Wegetable Soup, Winter.—Cut an onion into thin slices, and fry it.in two ounces of butter until it is lightly browned. Put with it half a pound of mixed vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, leeks, and celery;cut up small, and stir all briskly over the fire with a wooden spoon for ten minutes. Add a: quarter of a pound of soaked split peas, a small bunch of ‘sweet herbs,.a clove, a little salt. and. cayenne, and two. quarts of stock. Simmer..all gently together for two hours. Strain:the soup, and serve with toasted sippets.:: Fhree -or four ripe and sliced. may,, if liked, : be wWhen:a ; plain aay stewed with the soup. soup is required, fry the: wegetables, put VEG ( 1072 ) VEG peas with them, and boil tiil quite tender. Rub them through a sieve or strainer, and mix a spoonful or two of oatmeal with the pulp to form a liquid paste. Stir this into the boiling stock, let it boil for ten minutes, and it will be ready for use. VEGETABLE STRAINER, Vegetable Soup, Winter (another way).—Allow half a pint of mixed vegetables cut small to every quart of water. Fry the vegetables in butter or fat till they are lightly browned. Pour upon them the boiling stock, and let them simmer gently till tender. Rub them through a sieve, moisten the pulp with the stock, and add salt and cayenne. Simmer the soup till it is thoroughly hot, and serve with toasted sippets. Carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and sweet herbs, are the vegetables best suited for vegetable winter soup. Vegetable Soup with Meat.—Take cabbage lettuces, chervil, white beet-leaves, celery, leeks, sorrel, and scraped carrot—a good handful of each. Chop these fine, and add cucumbers sliced, young peas or asparagus. Stew gently in gravy and a few ounces of butter till they become quite tender, then put to them the required quantity of gravy or good broth made of shank of beef or veal and mutton. Give a boil, and serve up hot. Vegetable Stock.—If vegetable stock be required for a soup maigre, proceed as follows :—Cut into small pieces a large carrot, an onion, two lettuces, about a dozen of the outer sticks of celery,and a parsnip. Put these into'a stewpan with a slice of butter or dripping, cover the stewpan closely, and let its contents sweat till they begin to soften. Pour upon them as much boiling water as will entirely cover them, add alittle salt and pepper, and let them stew softly till they are reduced to ‘pulp. Skim and strain the liquor, and put it aside for use. Time, about four hours. Vegetables.— Good vegetables, carefully dressed, are wholesome, easy of digestion, and tend to purify the blood. In foreign countries they are frequently served as separate dishes, and constitute a distinctive part of the dinner. Here they are generally served with the meat. Vegetables may be cooked in a variety of ways, and the recipes for preparing them are given under their respective headings. As to general rules, the reader is referred to the PrincirLes or Cooxery, page lii. In boiling vegetables, some most important points must not be for- gotten, and those are, to boil them exactly the proper time, to take them out of the water the moment they are sufficiently cooked, to drain them, and keep them hot. Ifunderdone, they are indigestible; if overdone, their appearance is spoilt and their flavour lost. On this account it is necessary to calculate as exactly as possible how long they will take and when they will be needed, so that they may be sufficiently cooked just when they are wanted. These calculations must be rogulatéd by tho age, freshness, and size of the vegetables. Summer vegetables are in perfection only when they are freshly gathered and properly matured. There is an exception to this rule, however— artichokes being improved by being kept two or three days. But it is not always that vege. tables can be procured in this condition. For advice as to the best way of keeping them, see Vegetables, Keeping of. Vegetables, Boiling of.—Vegetables, after being cleansed with scrupulous care, should be put into plenty of fast-boiling water slightly salted. A table-spoonful of salt will be sufficient for half a gallon of water. They should be kept boiling until done enough, ani if green should be in an open saucepan. Old potatoes and old Jerusalem artichokes should be put into cold water; young potatoes and young Jerusalem artichokes into boiling water. Dried beans and peas should be put into cold water, and soaked before being boiled. Vege- tables should be taken up as soon as they aro sufficiently cooked. If underdone, they will be unpalatable and unwholesome; if overdone, they will be untidy and flavourless. Vegetables, Cooking of.—Few persons know how to cook vegetables. The rule is simple, and should never be forgotten. Old potatoes should either be steamed, or be put into plenty of cold water and boiled slowly. New potatoes should be put into plenty of boil- ing water. With both the water should be drained off when the roots are tender, and they should finish cooking in their own steam. Green vegetables should be put: into fast boil- ing water. They should be quickly boiled, and the lid should be left off the pan. If they arc of good quality they will not need soda—indeed, soda will spoil them, If the water boils from the moment that the vegetable is immersed in it, the albumen is partially coagulated near the surface, and serves to retain the virtue of the vegetable. The reverse is of course the rule for making soup, or any dish from which the water will not be drained. By placing the vegetables in cold | water, the albumen is slowly dissolved, and actually mixes with the water—a process most necessary for the production of nutritious soup. Vegetables, Dried, for Julienne and Clear Soups.—As vegetables fer soups are rather troublesome to cut, especially for those unaccustomed to the work, and as fresh choice vegetables are not always to be had, the cook will find it both convenient and economical to have at hand a small quantity , of dried vegetables, which may be bought at various foreign warehouses. These vegetables are light in weight, and in appearance some- thing like chips. They need only to be soaked in cold water for three-quarters of an hour, then put. into a saucepan over the fire, still in cold water slightly salted, and boiled like fresh vegetables. The clear soup should then be poured over them, and the whole boiled VEG ( 1073 ) VEG together for a quarter of an hour. They will have the flavour and appearance of fresh turned vegetables. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. per pound. Sufficient, a table-spoonful of dried vegetables for a quart of soup. Vegetables, Eggs Poached for.— Put into a saucepan or kettle about a hand’s depth of water; as soon as it boils, take some new-laid, or at least very fresh, eggs, and break them one after the other into the boiling water in such a manner that they shall stand close together. When the white is tolerably well set, take them quickly out of the water with a spoon, and lay them in cold water. These eggs must not, however, be boiled hard ; also, before taking them out of the saucepan, they may be flavoured with vinegar, which to many will render them very agreeable. With old eggs the whites run together, and the result is not so good; also care must be taken to keep the eggs from becoming attached to the bottom of the saucepan by means of a spoon. The eggs are left in the cold water till required for use, when they are trimmed and cut round for the table. Vegetables, Fresh, Treatment of.— Those who value fresh vegetables and sweet salads will never have them washed in the garden. Neither the one nor the other should be washed (says a writer in the Gardener's Chronicle) until they are just about to be cooked or eaten. Even potatoes lose flavour quickly after being washed; so do carrots and turnips; whilst water will very speedily become tainted in summer in contact with cauliflowers and cabbages, and thus destroy their freshness and flavour. The case is still worse with salads. If washed at all, it should be only just before they are dressed, and they should be dried and , dressed immediately. Nothing ruins the flavour of vegetables, and renders good salads uneat- able, sooner than water hanging about them. If lettuces are quite clean, they make the best salad unwashed ; but if washed, the operation should be done quickly, the water instantly shaken out, and the leaves dried with a clean cloth. The best practice is simply to remove all superfluous earth by scraping or rubbing, and all rough tops or leaves by cutting. Enough tender leaves may still be left: on cauliflowers and broccoli to overlap the flowers. Salad should be sent in from the garden with most of the outside leaves and main root on. , The tender leaves are easily tainted and injured by exposure, and if the chief root is cut off sharp, much of the juice oozes out of the wound. Where vegetables and salads have to be bought from a greengrocer the conditions are altogether different. Not only washing, but soaking often. becomes necessary to restore, something like their pristine crispness. Vegetables, Fried, Marinade of.— ice two onions and a carrot, and put them, with a small bunch of savoury herbs, half a blade of mace, and a slice of butter, into a stewpan. Cover closely, and steam them, shaking the pan occasionally, till the onions turn yellow. Dredge a little flour upon them, and pour over them half a pint of stock and 68—n.x. half that quantity of vinegar. Add salt and pepper if the stock is not already seasoned. . stram the liquor, and it will be ready for use. Vegetables, Insects cleared from —Put plenty of cold water into a large pan and add salt in the proportion of a large table- spoonful to two quarts of water. Lay the vegetables in this, stalk uppermost, and shake them occasionally. This will cause the insects, which hide between the leaves, to fall out and sink to the bottom of the pan. If liked, a small proportion of vinegar may. be added to the water instead of salt, and this will answer the same purpose. _ Vegetables, Keeping of.—When it is necessary to keep vegetables for 4 day or two, spread them out on a cellar floor, or keep them in a perfectly dry cool situation, but not exposed to currents of air. Be careful that each kind of vegetable is kept away from the other kinds, to prevent deterioration in flavour. Examine them daily to ascertain that they are not withering. Carrots, turnips, beetroot, parsnips, potatoes, and beans keep best in dry sand or earth in a cellar. The mould which hangs about them should be left upon them, and if any sprouts appear, they should be care- fully removed. Cabbages, if spread out on earth in a cool cellar, will keep good for two or three months. Celery and leeks also may be kept for two or three months in a cellar in boxes filled with earth. The stalk ends of asparagus and cucumbers, on the contrary, should be placed in about two inches of cold water. Store onions should be hung in a cool dry place. Vegetables should not be washed or placed in water until a short time before they are to be used. — ; Vegetables, Macédoine of (for gar- nishing dishes).—Take equal quantities of car- rots, turnips, green peas, asparagus peas, French beans, brussels sprouts, and cauliflowers. With VEGETABLE SCOOPS. , a vegetable scoop cut the carrots and turnips into pieces a quarter of an inch square, or turn them into the shapes of olives, filberts, | &c. Divide the cauliflowers and French beans into small neat pieces: Cook the vegetables . separately in plenty of water slightly salted ; when done enough drain and dry them. When the macédoine is wanted, put into a saucepan as much good white sauce as will moisten the vegetables, toss them lightly in it, being careful not to break them. When they are quite hot, the macédoine will be ready for serving. When the sauce is made entirely without stock, this garnish becomes Vegetable Macédoine Maigre. Vegetables, Mixed, Minced, and Stewed (second Cee various kinds of cold dressed vegetables, cut them small, VEG ( 1074 ) VEG and mix them together. For a.quart of vegeta- bles chop small four moderate-sized onions. Fry them in butter or fat till they begin to turn yellow, then stir the vegetables into them, and keep stirring till they are quite hot. Season the mixture rather highly with white. pepper, and add a little salt. When they are half done, put with them four sliced tomatoes, a.spoonful or two of good gravy, and a little lemon-juice or chilli vinegar. Serve very hot. Time, about twenty minutes. Vegetables, Months for Various.— January.—Asparagus (forced), Jerusalem artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, cardoons, celery, chervil, cresses, endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, Scotch kale, spinach, turnips; herbs. February.—Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus (forced), beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), brussels sprouts, beans (French or kidney, er cabbages, carrots, celery, cardoons, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, seakale, turnips; various herbs. March, — Artichokes (French), asparagus , (forced), beetroot, broccoli (purple and white), brussels sprouts, beans (French or kidney, forced), cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers (forced), endive, kidney beans, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, radishes (early), savoys, seakale, turnip-tops; various herbs. April, — Artichokes (French), asparagus, beetroot, beans (French or kidney, forced), broccoli, celery, chervil, cucumbers (forced), lettuces (cabbage), parsnips, radishes, young onions, small salad, seakale, spinach, sprouts, | turnip-tops ; various herbs. May.—Artichokes (French), asparagus, beans (forced), beetroot, cabbages, carrots (young), cauliflowers, chervil, cresses, cucumbers, let- tuces, peas, potatoes (new), radishes, , salads, seakale, spinach, turnip-tops; various herbs. June.—Artichokes, asparagus, beans (French, kidney, and Windsor), beetroot, cabbages, car- rots (young), chervil, cucumbers, cauliflowers, endive, lettuces, onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, small salad, seakale, sorrel, spinach, turnips (young) ; various herbs. July.—Artichokes, beetroot, white beet, beans (French, kidney, scarlet runners, or Windsor), cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, cucumbers, cresses, endive, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, red cabbages,, small salads, salsify, seakale, sorrel, spinach, sprouts, turnips, vegetable marrows; various herbs. August,—Artichokes, beetroot, beans, Wind- sor beans, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, cucumbers, cresses, shallots, endive, , lettuces, mushrooms, onions (for, keeping), peas, pota- toes, radishes, red cabbages, seakale,. small salads, salsify, sprouts, turnips, vegetable mar- Tows ; various herbs, September.—Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, beans,. beetroot, cabbage sprouts, cauliflowers, carrots, celery, endive,’ shallots,.lettuces, leeks, mushrooms, onions (for keeping), peas, pota- toes, salads, seakale, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows; various herbs, _ October.—Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, spinach, turnips, - T beets, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, celery, cucumbers (late), endive, shallots, let- tuces, leeks, mushrooms, onions::(for keeping), -potatoes, parsnips, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows; various herbs... November.—Jerusalem artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, cardoons, endive, leeks, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salad, spinach (winter), sprouts, Scotch kale; various herbs. December.—Jerusalem artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, cardoons, celery, leeks, onions, potatoes, parsnips, spinach (win- ter), Scotch kale, turnips. Vegetables Preserved.—Tinned vege- tables and fruits preserved by the heat process are well worthy of attention. Common: kinds of vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, pars- nips, &c., are put up in large quantities by the manufacturing houses, but chiefly for shipping purposes and exportation. Re-warmed they are hardly distinguishable from ordinary fresh cooked vegetables; and considering the high price ‘of these at the greengrocers’, and the fearful waste of them in most households, those preserved in tins might often be used with advantage, to. speak nothing of the conyenience of having a few tins in stock. But it is to the’ French preservers—the disciples of M. Appert of Paris, who more than fifty years ago intro- duced the method of preserving vegetables by heat—that we look for the best productions in the higher classes. ‘‘ Beans, celery, spinach, artichokes, asparagus, and especially tomatoes, are so well preserved by the best French manu- facturers that they lose little or nothing of their flavour, and may be served by good cooks to the most critical company ; while for soups, entrées, stews, and also for garnishing, the tins of macédoines (mixed vegetables) are found most useful. But of all the vegetable preserves, the green peas hold the highest place. The best are preserved without any use of copper, their colour being retained, or rather | restored, simply, we believe, by a little spinach- juice. The art of preserving peas has now reached so high a point of excellence, that it is almost impossible to distinguish them from the fresh gathered and fresh cooked vegetables— indeed, just as new peas come in, and during the pod season, those from the tins are con- sumed in enormous quantities .at first-class hotels and .resturants in. London and_all con- tinental cities, and at the tables of the wealthy classes, without anybody but those who provide them being the wiser. The fraud, if such it may be called, is a very harmless one, and confers a benefit. on .the pea-eaters, who. are ensured against a dish of hard flavourless pellets. American preservers now send,us large quantities of preserved tomatoes —a vegetable (perhaps we should almost say ‘fruit’) daily found in some form or other on every dinner-table across the Atlantic, but strangely neglected among ourselves. They are perhaps somewhat inferior in flavour to those produced in the South of France, : but their cheapness would recommend them. From America also we get tins of ‘ green corn,’ and Indian maize, cooked in its. milky state before VG ( 1075 ) VEG it is ripe—a still more indispensable article on American dinner-tables. Green Lima beans are another preserved vegetable sent from America, retailed in one pound tins and very excellent they are, but, like the ‘green corn,’ seldom experimented upon by the English public, being chiefly used by American zesidents in this country. No small success has attended the preservation in tins of fruit. The Americans send us yearly hundreds and thousands of tons of the various products of their gardens and orchards, In many parts of America—California, for instance, which seems likely to become ‘the garden of the world’— fruit is a mere drug in the market, the supply of peaches, apricots, and pine-apples, to say nothing of what we consider more common fruits, being almost unlimited. They are now seen in most of the shops which deal in such articles, and have obtained that degree of public favour to which their excellence and cheapness entitle them. The Australian colonies are also fast developing their powers of fruit production ; and both the quality and cheapness of their preserves of various kinds which have found their way into our markets commend them to the public.” Vegetables, Preserved, by Drying. —A convenient method of preparing“ desic- cated vegetables, as practised largely in some countries, consists in drying them for a short time, and then exposing them to a slow heat in ovens. When soaked for cooking, peas, roots, potatoes, beets, corn, and other substances swell out and show very little change in their esculent properties. A modification of this process consists in placing the substances, after being sun-dried, in paper bags, which are pasted up at the mouth, and then covered with sand, and heated till perfectly crisp, but not burned or materially altered in colour. Vegetables, Preserved, Fresh. — “The preservation of vegetables for future use,” says London, ‘is effected by destroying or rendering dormant the principle of life, and by warding off, as far as practicable, the progress of chemical decomposition. Hence the herbs, or roots, or fruits, of some vegetables are dried ; others are placed beyond the reach of the active principles of vegetation, viz., heat and moisture; and some are in addition excluded from the air, or placed in very low temperatures. All these Practices are merely imitations of what actually takes place in nature, from the withered grassy | tussock to the hedgehog’s winter store, and hence the origin of herb, seed, fruit, and root Tooms and cellars... . . Preserving heads or leaves of vegetables is effected in cellars or sheds of any temperature not lower than, nor much above, the freezing-point. Thus cabbages, endive, chicory, lettuce, &c., taken out of the ground with their main roots, in perfectly dry weather, at the end of the season, and daid in, or partially immersed in sand or dry earth, in a close shed, cellar, or ice-cold room, will keep through the winter, and be fit for use till spring, and often till the return of the season of their produce in the garden. The German gardeners are expert in this practice ; and more: especially in Russia, where the necessities being. at about a shilling,’ greater have called forth greater skill and attention.” ‘ ; Vegetables, Spring (dressed in the German manner).—Take a handful of parsley, and the same of sorrel, lettuce, and chervil ;’ pick and wash the vegetables, shred them finely, and.put them into a saucepan with a pint and three-quarters of green peas. Pour . over them as much good broth as will cover them, season with’ pepper and salt, and sim- mer gently for two hours. In a separate sauce- pan boil three-quarters of a pound of rice in water till tender. Stir the boiled vegetables into this, season with pepper and salt, adda slice of butter, and beat the mixture to a paste. Serve on bread. Time, two hours. Vegetables, Stew of.—Take two pounds of spinach; pick it, wash it in several waters to free it from grit, and mix with it a large hand- ful of parsley picked and chopped small, and two moderate-sized onions, also minced. Put the spinach, &c., into a stewpan, sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it, and add about half a pint of nicely-flavoured stock thickened with ‘flour and butter. Cover the pan closely, and let its contents simmer gently till tender. Chop small, again heat it over the fire, and serve with broiled ham. Vegetables, To Make Tender.— en peas, French beans, and similar vege- tables are old, or when the water in which they are to be boiled is hard, a very small piece of soda may be thrown in with them, and this will serve to make them tender and of a good colour. If too much soda is put in, the taste of the vegetables will be entirely spoilt. Vegoetarianism.—Under this name goes - the doctrine, ‘‘ That vegetable substances are the solids intended by nature for the sustenance of man; and that it-is wrong—against nature and against good morals—for men to make use of an animal diet.” This doctrine has had many speculative persons for its supporters—Pytha- goras, Plato, Plutarch, for example, in ancient times ; and Rousseau, Shelley, and Swedenborg, in modern. ; There is almost a concurrence of medical experience against vegetarianism, and in favour of the opinion that man, as regards all his | powers and faculties, thrives best, and that— if a difference can be made out—he also lives longest, upon a mixed diet. It has been found in making railways that differences .between workmen in respect of bodily strength .and energy were chiefly due to a difference: of diet: that, for example, a beef-eating Englishman would almost do the work of three vegetable- fed Frenchmen, and that this difference of working power disappeared when the French- men took to eating beef. Upon the alleged beneficent moral influence of .vegetable food, it may be observed that there is no proof whatever of its reality; moreover, that since the majority of mankind live. either almost or entirely upon vegetables; vegetables must bear a largo share of the responsibility which may fall upon.diet for the evil tendencies.of man;. and. that, in fact, the most cruel and the most debased of human races live entirely upon VEG ( 1076 ) VEL vegetables. To the charge of cruelty brought against the practice of killing animals for food, it has been answered, that the plan of Nature contemplates such cruelty—if cruelty it be— and makes it impossible to avoid it; that the microscope has shown us that even in taking a draught of water we may deprive a multitude of beings of life; and that, on the a hand, the system of rearing cattle for the butcher— since the cattle would otherwise not be reared at all—really adds very largely to the sum of happy animal existence. It is not disputed that there is a liability to disease from the use of unwholesome meat; but then vegetables as well as animals are subject to disease; and the reasoning which would drive us from the use of animal food because it is diseased would really cut us off from food altogether.— Chambers. The following remarks on this subject are from the pen of the late Dr. Lankester :—“I am,” he says, “an advocate for a mixed diet for man, and I would particularly draw your attention to a statement that is often made, that it is not necessary to partake of animal food at all. Persons who argue thus put forth asa tirst ground the immorality of the act, and the | impropriety and wickedness of taking away life at all, This is surely an absurd assumption; tor the Creater has made a certain number of creatures that could not live upon vegetable food, and they naturally prey upon the lower animals which feed on the grass and the herbs of the field. The lion and tiger exist by prey : and it appears to me that man has a perfect right, without being charged with immorality or impropriety, to take the lives of the lower animals for his food. Then anatomical argu- ments are adduced against animal food. It is said that man in his structure is better adapted for vegetable than animal food. I must here again join issue, for I believe I can show from his structure that man is more adapted for a mixed diet than for either vegetable or animal food alone. Look at the jaws and teeth of a carnivorous creature—a, tiger, for example. The jaws are so constructed that they will only move up and down like a pair of scissors. Ob- serve also his sharp-pointed carnivorous teeth, especially his great canine teeth. They are in- tended for holding and cutting up living food. Now look at the jaws of a horse. His lower jaw is quite movable from side to side. Instead of pointed teeth they are flat, and every ar- rangement is made for grinding, not cutting, the food ; and this is the character of the mouth of a herbivorous animal. If, however, we take the skull of a man, we find he has certain teeth —canine teeth—which, like those of lions and tigers, have the power of cutting, but he has also flat teeth, and the power of moving his lower jaw latcrally, and can bring these flat teeth across each other for the purpose of grind- ing his food; so that you see he is evidently provided with instruments to enable him to prepare for his digestion both vegetable and animal food. I might prolong this argument by showing you the complicated structure of the stomach of the sheep and the ox, and, come paring this with the stomach of the lion, point to the fact that the human stomach has neither | the complicated structure of the one nor the simplicity of the other. ‘There are many other points of structure in which man seems to stand between these two groups of animals—the her- bivorous on the one side, and the carnivorous on the other—which would seem to indicate his adaptation for taking both kinds of food. “But whatever may be the arguments of the vegetarians, they do not practically carry out their doctrines, for they partake of considerable quantities of animal food. They take milk, and butter, and cheese, and eggs. A well-known authority states that he has taken a vegetarian cookery book, and calculated the quantity of milk, butter, and eggs employed in their food, and found that, if a vegetarian family lived in accordance with the rules of this book, each member would consume half an ounce more animal food a day than he didin his own family —and he was no vegetarian. So that you sec people are deceiving themselves who enforce such a doctrine as this. “On the other hand, there are some persons who advocate a diet of purely animal food. I had a book sent me the other day, written by a gentleman at Liverpool, who states that he has discovered that the panacea for all human evils is the taking of animal food alone; and he takes the opportunity of stating that he is looking for some young lady of similar prin- ciples and practice who will link her fortunes with his own, and establish a family of carni- vorians. “There is no question that man may live on a purely vegetable diet; but the question is as to whether that kind of diet is best for the community. We find in the history of man that those races who have partaken of animal food are the most vigorous, the most moral, and the most intellectual races of mankind. We find that the ancient Jews, although they had certain sanitary regulations in regard to killing and eating animals, partook largely of meat, and were amongst the most vigorous people of their day. We find in modern Europe that those nations who take the most animal food are the strongest; and amongst ourselves it is just in proportion as we give our labourers animal food, or wages to procure it, that they are stronger and better able to do their work. It is vain for a man to expect to get through intellectual or physical labour without an abun- dant supply of the material of thought and of physical power, and animal food is one of the readiest means of affording this supply.” Velouté Sauce in small quantities. —Cut up the remains of a roast fowl, and take one or two bacon-bones or a couple of ounces of lean ham. Butter a saucepan, put in the bones, &c., with a quarter of a pound of veal, and add a small carrot, a small onion, one or two pepper- corns, and a little salt and grated nutmeg. Pour over the ingredients as much water as will cover them, and let them simmer very gently till the liquor is strong and good. Strain it, skim well, and free it entirely from fat. Boil it quickly for a short time, thicken with a small spoon- ful of white thickening, let it simmer by the side of the fire till it has thrown up its grease, and it will be ready for use. A spoonful of gelatine VEL ( 1077 ) VEN may be usod instead of the veal, if liked. Time, two hours to simmer the sauce. Sufficient for -a pint of sauce. Probable cost, 9d. Velouté Sauce, Maigre.—Put two pounds of fish into a saucepan with a small onion, a clove, a carrot, a bunch of parsley, a very small sprig of thyme, half a bay-leaf, and a little pepper and salt. Pour upon these in- gredients a large wine-glassful of sauterne or chablis, or, failing this, of fish stock. Cover the saucepan, and let its contents simmer gently for five or six minutes. Add two pints of fish stock, or water and another glassful of wine. Boil the liquor, skim it, and let it simmer until the fish is done enough. Take it up, and strain the liquor. Thicken with white roux as in the last recipe, let it throw up the grease by the side of the fire, strain it, and put it aside for use. Whiting, gurnet, and pike are the fish best suited for this purpose. The heads and bones may be advantageously used for sauce. Velouté Sauce, or White Cullis.— Butter the bottom of a stewpan, and cover it with slices of thin lean ham. Place upon it three pounds of the knuckle of veal and an old hen, if this is to be had, or the bones of a cold roast chicken. Pour over it half a pint of stock, and let it boil away till it is reduced to glaze. Draw it back before it has time to acquire any colour, pour upon it seven pints of stock, and add a small onion in which one clove has been stuck, a carrot, a little parsley, half a bay-leaf, a small sprig of thyme, and a little pepper and salt. Let it simmer gently, and skim fre- quently till the goodness is all drawn from the veal. Strain it, let it get cold, and free it from fat. Make a roux in a stewpan of equal parts of butter and flour. Before it can brown, moisten with the stock. Stir the sauce over the fire till it boils, and let it simmer gently by the side of the fire till it ceases to throw up grease. Skim carefully, strain through a cloth, and the sauce will be ready for use. For velouté sauce made in a large quantity, see PRINCIPLES oF CooKERY, page xxvi. Time, two hours. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. for this quantity. Velvet Breakfast Cakes, American (see American Velvet Breakfast Cakes). Velvet Cream.—Dissolve half an ounce of isinglass in a quarter of a pint of water. Add a large wine-glassful of sherry, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and six ounces of lump sugar which have been well rubbed upon the rind of a large fresh lemon. Stir the mixture over the fire until the sugar is entirely dissolved. Let the preparation get cold, and before it begins to stiffen mix with it a pint of cream. Pour it into a mould which has been soaked in cold water. Let it stand all night in a cool place, and turn it out upon a glass dish. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for a pint and a half of cream, Velvet Cream (another way).—S¢e Cream, elvet. Velvet Cream (another way).— Pre- pare the velvet cream as in the last recipe. Cut four or five sponge cakes into slices, and lay these in a glass dish. If preferred, substi- tute three ounces of macaroons and one ounce of ratafias for the sponge cakes. Place round them a little apricot or greengage jam. A gilass- ful of sherry may be poured over them or not. Take the cream when it is quite cold, and before it. begins to stiffen, and pour it over the sweet- meat. Serve when cold and stiff. Probable cost, 88. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Velvet Cream (another way).—Put a pint and a quarter of milk into a saucepan with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, the thin rind of half a lemon, and an inch of stick cinna- mon. Let it simmer till pleasantly flavoured. Put two dessert-spoonfuls of Oswego into a basin, and mix with it four well-beaten eggs. Strain the milk when it is cool into the eggs, and stir the custard over the fire till it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Stir it off the fire till it is almost cold, add a few drops of vanilla essence, and pour it into a glass dish over sponge cakes or ratafias soaked in sherry and covered with jam. Let it stand in a cool situation three or four hours before serving. Time, about twenty minutes to simmer the milk with the flavouring. Probable cost, 2s. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Velvet Cream made with Gelatine. —Soak three-quarters of an ounce of gelatine in a quarter of a pint of water for half an hour. Pour upon it a quarter of a pint of sherry or raisin wine, and stir it over the fire till dis- solved. If it is preferred, the gelatine may be dissolved in half a pint of wine only, instead of wine and water. Add six ounces of loaf sugar which have been rubbed upon the rind of two fresh lemons to draw out the flavour, together with a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and stir tho mixture over the fire till the sugar is dissolved. Pour the liquor into a bowl, and when it is cool mix with it gradually but thoroughly a pint of thick cream. Pour it into a mould which has been laid in cold water for some time. Serve upon a glass dish. Probable cost, 2s. 2d. Suf- ficient for six or seven persons. Venetian Biscuit for Dessert.— Break four eggs, and put the whites upon a plate and the yolks into a basin. Beat the whites, and when they are firm add them to the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, together with half a pound of flour, half a pound of powdered and sifted sugar, a small glassful of brandy, and a pinch of salt. Lastly, work in half a pound of butter melted but not oiled, and beat the mix- ture with 4 wooden spoon till the ingredients are thoroughly blended. Pour the batter a quarter of an inch thick into a baking-dish, and bake in a moderate oven. When it is cold, stamp it into pieces about three inches long and of an oblong shape. Split these in halves, and insert a little jam between them. Press them closely together, and cover one half with pink icing, and the other half with whiteicing. Dry the icing, and the biscuits will be ready for serving. Venetian Biscuit with Chocolate - Icing.—Break six eggs, and beat the yolks and whites separately. Mix gradually with the yolks half a pound of powdered sugar, and beat the paste briskly for twenty minutes. Whisk the whites toa froth, and add them to the yolks, VEN ( 1078 ) VEN and, lastly, work in a quarter of a pound of flour. Butter a plain mould, sprinkle a little fine sugar into it, and pour in the batter. Bake the cake in the oven. When it is done enough turn it .upon a sieve, let it get cold, and cover with chocolate icing. Let it dry in a cool oven, and it will be ready for use. The icing may be made as follows :—Break three-quarters of a pound of best French chocolate into small pieces, and put these in a saucepan with « pint and a half of water and a pound of sugar. Stir the mixture till the chocolate is dissolved, strain it into a clean boiler, and stir until it registers 38 deg., or grand plume on a saccharometer. Take it off the fire, and work briskly till it thickens. ‘When cool, it will be ready for pouring over the cake. ; Venetian Biscuit with Ice Cream. —Make a Venetian biscuit as in the last recipe. Bake it, let it cool, and scoop out the inside, leaving a wall an inch thick all round. Make a small mould of vanilla ice cream the same size as the hollow part of the biscuit. Place it ona napkin in a dish, place the biscuit crust upon it, and serve, Venetian Cake.—Blanch, dry thoroughly, and pound to a smooth paste seven ounces of sweet almonds and one ounce of bitter almonds. Whilst pounding, add a few drops of orange-flower water to keep the almonds from oiling. Mix a pound of flour with the almonds, and break into the mixture half a pound of firm cool butter. Rub four or five large lumps of sugar upon the rind of a lemon. Crush this to powder, and put with it additional sugar to make up the weight to half a pound. ‘Work the ingredients to a smooth paste with the well-beaten yolks of three large eggs or four small ones. Roll the paste to the thickness of a quarter of an inch, place it on a baking- sheet, and bake in the oven till it is firm, and lightly and equally browned. Take it out, let it get cold, and divide it into six or seven por- tions of equal size. Spread jam of different colours upon all of these but one, and lay them one upon the other, placing the one without jam upon the top. Ice the top of the cake, and orna- ment with coloured sugar. By way of varicty, instead of cutting the cake into portions of an equal size, cut a large piece for the bottom, and the remainder gradually smaller and smaller, so that when they are placed one upon another a border an inch deep may be left round each. This border may be ornamented with jam of different colours. Venetian Cream.—Simmer a pint of milk with four table-spoonfuls of sugar till the latter is dissolved. Pour it when boiling on the well- beaten yolks of six eggs, and stir constantly over a gentle fire till it begins to thicken, but it must not boil. Stir into it three-quarters of a pint of isinglass which has been dissolved in a gill of water and cooled, and add a quarter of a@ pint of thick cream. Mix with the cream half « pound of jam or: candied fruit of any kind cut small, and stir the preparation until it begins to thicken. If this is not done, the sweetmeats will sink to the bottom. Tire, three-quarters of an hour to make the cream. Probable cost, 28. 10d.“ Sufficient for five or six persons. Venetian Fritters.—Take three dessert- spoonfuls of Carolina rice. Wash, pick, and dry it, and put it into a saucepan with half a pint of newmilk. Put with it a piece of butter the size of a walnut, let it boil, and simmer gently till it is tender and has absorbed all the milk. Beat it well with a table-spoonful of powdered sugar and a pinch of salt; and when cold add a little grated lemon-rind, an ounce and a half of currants, a large apple pared, cored, and chopped small, half a tea- spoonful of flour, and two well-beaten eggs. Keep the mixture in a cool place till wanted. Drop it in spoonfuls into hot fat, and fry these over a gentle fire till they are lightly browned. When they are firm upon one side turn them carefully upon the other. Drain them, and serve on a hot dish with powdered sugar sifted over them. ‘Time to fry the fritters; five or six minutes. for three or four persons. Venetian Sauce.— Put half a pint of white sauce into a saucepan, and add’a tablo- spoonful of mushroom-juice. Stir it over the fire for ten minutes, lift it off, and let it cool a little. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a bowl, and with them a quarter of a pint df cream. Stir a little of the sauce into the mixture, and add it gradually to the rest, together with a little pepper and salt, a pinch of grated nutmeg, half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Stir the sauce briskly over the fire for five minutes, and add a table-spoonful of chopped parsley. Pour it into the tureen, stir a small lump of butter into it, and serve. Venison. — There are three kinds of venison known in Great Britain; the stag or red deer, peculiar to’ Ireland; the roebuck, known only in the north of Scotland; and the fallow deer, common in England. Of these the fallow deer is much the best, and when it is well kept and properly dressed it is quite worthy of the high value set upon it. Buck venison, which is in season from June to the end of September, is finer than doe venison, which is in season from October to December. Neither should be dressed at any other time of the year. The haunch is the prime joint, though the neck and shoulder are much approved, and may be dressed in various ways. venison in killing, preserving, and dressing. As soon as it is cut up it should be taken into a cool dry larder, dried with a cloth, and hung in an airy place. If it is to be kept some time, dry ginger and pepper should be dusted over it to keep off the flies. It should be examined and carefully wiped every day, or twice a day in unfavourable weather, and it should be kept as long as it is possible to preserve it untainted. Excepting in very mild weather, it will keep a fortnight with care. In order to ascertain its condition, run a skewer close to the bone, and from this judge of the sweetness of the venison. If it should inadvertently become musty, first wash it with lukewarm water, and afterwards Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient: No meat requires so much care as. VEN ( 1079 ) VEN with lukewarm milk and water, and then dry it perfectly with a cloth. Venison (4 la Daube).—Take about three pounds of meat from the neck, and cut it into neat pieces. Put the rest, bones and trimmings, into an earthen jar which has a closely-fitting lid. Throw in with these eight ounces of bacon cut up small, a finely-minced shallot, a pinch of powdered mace, a small lump of sugar, and a little salt and cayenne, and pour over all as much stock as will cover the bones, &c. Put the lid on the jar, and place it in a sauce- pan of boiling watcr. Keep the water boiling round it for two hours. Season the slices of venison with pepper and salt, and fry them in butter till they are brown. Strain the gravy, stir a glassful of port into it, and put it, with the meat, intoacleansaucepan. Simmer all gently together till the venison is done enough. Put the meat on a dish, pour the gravy over and round it, and serve very hot. Send red-currant jelly to table as an accompaniment. Time to simmer the meat in the gravy, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost of venison, very un- certain. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Venison and Hare Pie.—In making this pie be sure that both the venison and the hare are thoroughly well kept. Take the flesh in one piece from a neck of venison, and cut it to the length of the pie-dish; season with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Divide the hare into pieces not larger than an egg. Take out the bones, and fill the cavities with good veal forcemeat. Line the edges of a pie-dish with good pastry. Lay the venison in the centre, and arrange the pieces of hare closely round it. Put forcemeat in the dish to fill up the empty spaces, and lay two or three spoonfuls of jellied gravy on the top. Place the cover on the pie, and ornament according to taste. Bake in a well-heated oven. When done enough, pour into it, through a pointed strainer, a little additional gravy. This gravy may be made as follows:—Put the bones and trimmings of the hare and venison into a saucepan with a slice of lean ham, six or eight peppercorns, two cloves, a little salt, and as much stock or water as will cover the ingredients. Simmer the liquor till it is plea- santly flavoured and so strong that it will jelly when cold. Let it cool, clear it entirely from fat, and it will be ready for use. If pre- ferred, the pie may be made entirely of venison. Time to bake the pie, two hours. Probable cost, hare, from 8s. 6d.; venison, very uncertain. Venison, Beef Potted in Imitation of.—Put eight or ten pounds of lean beef into a deep dish, pour a pint of wine over it, and let it lie for two days, seasoning well with mace, pepper, salt, and a clove of garlic; then lay it in a closely-covered pot along with the wine—add another glassful if there is not enough—and bake for three hours in a quick oven. When cold, pound the meat to a paste, and pot in the usual way. Venison, Beef to Imitate (see Beef to Imitate Venison). _ Venison, Boiled.—In the American hunt- .. ing grounds, where venison is very plentiful, it is sometimes boiled like mutton, and served with mashed turnips and cauliflowers. ‘This method of dressing it is, however, by no means to be recommended. Venison, Breast of, Stewed.— Cut up the back ribs or the breast of venison into small neat pieces. Flour these, and fry them in butter with three or four sliced onions and a small quantity of bacon cut into dice. When the meat is lightly browned, drain away part of the fat, and pour over the meat a cupful of good stock and a glassful of port or'claret, and add a small bunch of sweet herbs, half a tea- spoonful of anchovy, and a little pepper and salt. If the flavour is not objected to, a clove of garlic may be added, or the saucepan may be rubbed once or twice with a freshly-cut clove. Shake the stewpan over a gentle tire till the venison is tender. Thicken the gravy with a little brown thickening, and let it simmer till it has thrown up its grease. Put the meat ona dish, strain and skim the gravy, and pour it round the venison. Garnish with toasted sip- pets. A few stewed mushrooms will be a great improvement to this dish. When venison cannot be had, well-hung four-year-old mutton may be usedinstead. This stew may be served in a casserole of rice or potatoes. It is an excellent way of dressing venison which is lean and dry. Time to stew the venison, about two hours. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain, varying with the supply. Venison, Choosing of.—The lean of venison should be dark and finely-grained, the fat should be thick, firm, clear, and white. The greater quantity of fat there is the better will be the quality of the meat. Like mutton, venison should have attained a certain age before it is killed, or it will not have acquired its true flavour; still, it ought not to be old. The age of the venison may be known from the cleft of the hoof, which is always left on: if this is small and smooth, the animal is young. Venison, Cold, Stewed.—Take the remains of cold dressed venison; cut the meat, into neat slices, and put these aside. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan, pour over them as much strong unscasoned stock, or, failing this, water, as will cover them, and add. a bunch of sweet herbs, a little grated nutmeg, and pepper and salt. ‘Let them simmer till the gravy is good. Strain it, thicken with a small lump of brown thickening, and put it by the side of the fire to throw up its grease. Skim it, and add a spoonful of ketchup, a spoonful of red-currant jelly, and a glassful of claret. Put the slices of venison into the sauce, and let them get thoroughly hot without boiling. Squeeze the juice of a lemon into the gravy. Put the meat on a dish, pour the gravy over, and gar- nish with sliced lemon. The remains of cold dressed venison may be converted into an ex- cellent stew soup. Time to stew the bones, about two hours. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Collops.—Take any remains of roast venison, clear them of skin and vein, mince very finely, and mix them with a third ag much of minced bacon, a beaten egg or two, VEN ( 1080 ) VEN a handful of crumbs, salt, pepper, and a little herb seasoning if liked. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, form apple-sized balls; flatten and dip them in egg, and crumb them or dip them in warmed butter, and then fry of a nice pale brown. Venison Collops, Minced.—Mince finely a pound of venison taken from the neck or loin, and season with pepper, salt, and pounded mace. Dissolve an ounce and a half of butter in a saucepan over the fire, stir a dessert-spoonful of flour into it, and when it is quite smooth add a large tea-spoonful of chopped parsley, a pinch of powdered sweet herbs, and a little pepper and salt. A small onion chopped small, or a particle of garlic, may be stirred in also when the flavour is liked. Keep beating the paste over the fire till it is lightly browned, then stir in the minced venison, and keep tossing lightly with 4 fork till it is quite hot. Moisten gradually with half a cupful of stock, and let the collops sim- mer for ten minutes. Ketchup, port, tarragon vinegar, lemon-juice, or basil wine may be added if liked. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain, varying with the supply. Venison Collops, Scotch.—Take as much venison as may be required in slices from the neck or loin. Trim neatly, and put them aside. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan, cover either with cold stock or water, and let them stew gently till the gravy be- comes strong and good. Strain it, thicken with brown thickening, clear it from fat, and season with salt, cayenne, and a small pinch of grated nutmeg. Flavour with strained lemon- juice and a glassful of claret, to which may be added, if liked, « few drops of tarragon, chilli, or shallot vinegar. Fry the collops in butter, dish them, and pour the gravy over. By way of variety, vinegar and a small lump of sugar may be stirred into the gravy in the dish, and red-currant jelly dissolved in the gravy in thetureen. Time, about two hours to draw the gravy from the bones. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Cutlets, Broiled.—Cut the cutlets an inch thick from a fine, well-hung neck of venison. Trim them neatly without depriving them of their fat. Pepper and salt them, and lay them upon the bars of a gridiron over a clear, gentle fire. Turn them every two minutes to keep in the gravy. Serve on a very hot dish with a small slice of butter under each. Send stewed mushrooms and baked pota- toes to table with the chops. Time to broil the cutlets, from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, very uncertain. ' Venison Cutlets, Stewed.—Take the cutlets from the neck an inch thick. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a stewpan, put in the cutlets, and let them remain until they are lightly and equally browned on both sides. Pour over them as much good beef stock as will barely cover them, and add half a tumbler- ful of port or claret, a table-spoonful of vinegar, a small spoonful of brown thickening, and a little pepper and salt. Stew the cutlets gently till tender, and skim and strain the gravy. Put the cutlets on a dish, pour the gravy over, and serve very hot. Time to stew the cutlets, twenty minutes. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Fried.—Cut the meat into slices, and make gravy of the bones. Fry it of a light brown, and keep it hot before the fire. Put butter rolled in flour into the pan, and keep stirring it till thick and brown. Put in some finely powdered sugar, the gravy made of the bones, and some red wine—let it be the thick. ness of cream—squeeze in a lemon; warm the venison in it, put it in the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Omit the sugar if you choose, and send currant jelly to table with it in a glass, Venison Fry.—Cleanse the fry, and cut it into neat slices about half an inch thick. Season these with pepper and salt, dredge flour upon them, and fry in hot fat till they are brightly browned and sufficiently cooked. Drain them, put them round a hot dish, place fried parsley in the centre, and send highly- seasoned brown gravy to table in a tureen. Red-currant jelly may be served as an accom- paniment. Venison fry consists of the liver, heart, skirts, melt, &c. Probable cost, very uncertain. Venison, Gravy for.—A strong, unfla- voured gravy, seasoned with salt only, is generally served with venison. It may be made as follows:—-Take the trimmings of the venison, or, failing these, a pound or two of the scrag end of a neck of mutton cut into chops. Fry these, till they are brightly browned on both sides. Pour over them a quart of boiling water, and let the gravy simmer gently till it is reduced one-half. Skim as required, and season with salt. Let it get cold, free it entirely from fat, and serve ina tureen. The meat on the mutton bones may be potted and used asa breakfast relish. For sauces to serve with venison, see Venison, Sauces for. Pro- bable cost, very uncertain. Venison, Gravy for (another way).— Take the scrag end of a neck of mutton, half a pound of liver, the venison trimmings, and a kidney. Cut the meat into small pieces, and fry these in butter till they are slightly browned. Put them into a saucepan, pour the contents of the frying-pan over them, and add a pint and a half of water and a few pepper- corns. Cover the saucepan closely, and stew its contents gently till the gravy is strong and good. Stir occasionally. Strain it into a bowl, and when cold entirely remove the fat. Before serving, boil it, season with salt, adda table-spoonful of port and a little sugar brown- ing, and send the gravy to table in a tureen. Strong, unflavoured gravy is usually served with venison, together with venison sauce. If, however, it is preferred that the gravy should be slightly flavoured, then stew a sliced carrot, a minced shallot, a clove, and a bay- leaf with the other ingredients. When the liver and kidney cannot be procured, three or four mutton chops from the loin may be used instead. The meat may afterwards be potted or made into rissoles. Time to stew the gravy, abous : three hours. VEN (1081 ) VEN Venison, Gravy for Gr f Roast Venison). - (ae Sutey toe Venison, Hashed.—Cut any part of cold roast venison into thin neat slices the third of an inch thick. Do not remove the fat from them. Put the bones and trimmings of the venison into a saucepan with a sliced onion, a little pepper and salt, and as much stock or water as will cover them, and let: them stew gently for two hours. Strain the gravy, thicken with a small piece of brown thickening, or, failing this, with an ounce and a half of butter rolled in flour, and clear it from grease. Pepper and flour the pieces of venison. Put them into a clean saucepan, strain over them as much of the gravy as will moisten but not quite cover them, and heat them very gently, shaking the saucepan frequently. The gravy must not boil after the venison is put to it. Put the meat on @ hot dish, pour the gravy over, and serve very hot. A dish of plainly-boiled French beans and a little red-currant jelly will be welcome accompaniments. If liked, a quarter of a pound of red-currant jelly and a glassful of port, or a glassful of claret and a small piece of sugar, may be added to the gravy. Whena very good gravy is required, make it as follows: —Dissolve a good slice of fresh butter in a saucepan. Put with it the bones and trimmings of the venison, any mutton, beef, or poultry bones that there may be, half a pound of liver, and a kidney. Add the red part of a small carrot scraped to pulp, a minced shallot, a clove, a bay- leaf, and a little pepper and salt, Shake the saucepan over the fire till the ingredients are brown. Pour on them as much water as will cover them, and let them simmer for three hours. Strain the gravy, thicken lightly with brown thickening, clear it from fat, add a wine- glassful of port, and serve. Time, two to three hours to simmer the gravy; about an hour to simmer the venison in the sauce. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Hashed (another way).—The venison should be warmed with its own gravy, or some made without seasoning, and only made hot, not quite boiled. If there is no fat left, cut some slices of mutton fat; set it on the fire with a little port wine and sugar, simmer till almost dry, then put it to the hash, and it will eat as well as the fat of venison. Venison, -Hashed (another way).—WSee Game, Hashed (Venison). Venison, Haunch of.—Take a well- hung haunch of venison weighing from eighteen to twenty-five pounds. If it weigh less it will not be fully-flavoured. Be sure that it is in good condition. To ensure this it should be hung, as soon as it is brought in, in a cool, airy situation. The kernel of the fat should be at once removed, the part from which it is taken wiped dry, and it, as well as the entire haunch, should be dusted with pepper and powdered ginger. The haunch should be examined twice a day, and if any moisture appears it should be wiped with adry cloth; and the meat should be kept ag long as it can be preserved sweet and untainted. In order to ascertain whether or not it is ready for dressing, run a skewer into the flesh close to the bone, and from this judge of the state of the meat. When it is to be roasted, saw off the shank bone, remove the sinews, scrape away the dark dry skin from the skirt, and ' also the dried surface of the under part. Wipe the haunch thoroughly with damp cloths which have been wrung out of lukewarm water, then dry it perfectly. It should be remembered that the more fat there is on the joint the better it will be, and that in roasting the main object is to preserve the fat. Therefore, first cover the haunch with a large sheet of well-greased, thick, white cartridge paper, then with a stiff paste of flour and water rolled out to the thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and tie securely over this with string or tape two additional sheets of greased paper. Put the haunch down to a clear, sound fire, quite near at first, to harden the paste. Draw it back after a minute or two, and bring it gradually nearer. Baste the venison the moment it is put down to prevent the outer paper and the string from burning, and con- tinue to baste frequently and liberally till done enough. Half an hour before it is done remove the paper and the paste from the meat, and a few minutes after take away the last paper. Sprinkle a little salt over the meat, dredge the surface lightly with flour, and then baste with butter dissolved in a spoon. Pour the fat from the dripping-tin, keeping back any brown gravy there may be. Add half a tea-cupful of boiling water to this gravy, pour it into a saucepan, and skim off the fat. Boil it, and add a little salt to it. Put the haunch on a very hot dish, and pour the boiling gravy through a strainer upon it. Pin a frill of white paper round the knuckle bone. Send venison gravy (see Venison, Gravy for) and venison sauce to table in tureens, and let red-currant jelly be served on a separate dish. The gravy should be prepared the day before it is wanted, to ensure its being free from fat. French beans plainly boiled are a suitable accompaniment to haunch of veni- son. Venison fat freezes so quickly that espe- cial care should be taken that the plates are very hot; indeed, hot-water plates ought to be used. Time to roast the venison, from four to five hours, or about thirteen minutes to the pound when the haunch is weighed with the pasteon. Although the omission is by no means recommended, some cooks omit the flour and water paste; then the haunch will not need to be down so long. Doe venison will be done half an hour before buck venison. Venison is preferred underdone rather than overdone. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Suf- ficient for twenty persons. Venison, Haunch of (M. Ude’s recipe). —It was customary in France to cut off a small rosette from the leg, to lard and then pickle it. In England it is customary to put it on a spit, then to make some paste with flour and water only, and case the venison with it, securing it with a few sheets of paper. It can- not be done thoroughly in less than four hours. It is usually served up with red-currant jelly made hot with a little port wine. The women cooks in England put flour over the roast just before they remove it from the spit, a custom VEN ( 1082 ) VEN —_—_— which is utterly absurd. I approve of the practice of flouring roasted meat, if it be done early enough to imbibe the gravy, and get nicely browned, when it becomes very tasty. In the other case, the froth of the flour and butter adheres to the palate, and has an abomi- nable taste. I like to remove the paper from the venison a few minutes before it is served, and glaze the venison with very good glaze; some fine salt must be spread over it before the glaze is applied. This method is better and more tasty than the other. Venison, Haunch of, To Carve.— This is not a very difficult task. In carving a launch of venison, first cut it across down to the bone in the line a 3; then turn the dish with the knuckle farthest from you, put in the point of the Imife, and cut down as deep as you can in the direction shown by the dotted lines; you may take out as many slices as you please on the right and left. The knife should slope in making the first cut, and then the whole of the gravy will be received in the well. Itis held by genuine epicures that some parts of the haunch are better flavoured than others, but it is doubtful whether ordinary palates will detect any difference. Slices of HAUNCH OF VENISON, TO CARVE, venison should not be cut thick, and plenty of gravy should be given with them; but as there is a particular sauce made for this meat with red wine and currant jelly, your guest should be asked if he pleases to have any. The fat is very apt to get cool soon, and become hard and disagreeable to the palate; it should, therefore, always be served upon a water-dish. Venison, Imitation of, Potted.—Rub the bottom of a deep dish three or four times with fresbly-cut garlic, and pour into it half a pint of claret. Season a-piece of lean beef weighing about four pounds liberally with pep- per, salt, and powdered mace. Lay it in the wine, and let it remain for two days. Turn it frequently. Put it into a jar which has a closely-fitting lid, pour the wine over, cover lightly, and place it in the oven in a shallow tin filled with boiling water. Bake till tender, and put boiling water into the tin under it when necessary. Take the beef up, let it get cold, pound it to a smooth paste, and add further seasoning if required, together with about half a pound of clarified butter, which is to be put in gradually whilst the meat is being pounded. Press the paste into pots, and cover with clari- fied butter. Time to bake the beef, one hour and a half. Probable cost of beef, 11d. :per pound. Venison, Marinaded and Baked.— Take a shoulder of venison, bone and flatten it, lay it in a deep dish with a pint of vinegar, half a pint of oil, a sliced onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, the grated rind of a Seville orange, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and a little pepper, salt, and powdered sugar. A glassful of white wine may be added ornot. Let it remain in this marinade for forty-eight hours, and turn it about three or four times. Take it up, cover with greased paper, and bake in a moderately-heated oven until done enough. Serve with venison sauce. Time to bake the venison, one and three-quarters to two hours, according to size. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Melon Pickle for (see Melon Pickle). Venison, Mock; or Mutton Dressed to Taste like Venison, Stewed.—Tako a loin of mutton, or even a neck of mutton, cut long in the bones, and hang it in a cool, airy situation for several days. Skin and bone it, lay it in a stewpan, pour over it a pint of stock or water, and add a large onion stuck with ten or ‘twelve cloves, eight peppercorns, a table- spoonful of vinegar, and three glassfuls of port. Let it boil, skim it, put with it a small bunch of sweet herbs and a little salt, and let it simmer very gently till tender. Turn it over two or three times that it may be equally cooked. Serve with strong gravy made from the bones, and with red-currant jelly. The gravy may be made as follows:—Put the trimmings and bone of the mutton into a stewpan with a slice of butter. Shake them over the fire till lightly browned. Pour upon them as much stock as will cover them, and let them simmer gently for an hour and a half. Strain the liquor, let it cool, free it from fat, and season with salt only, that its flavour may not over- power that of the meat. Boil it up, and serve very hot. If not sufficiently coloured, a very small quantity of sugar browning may be added. Time to stew the mutton, about three hours. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Venison, Mock; or Mutton Dressed to Taste like Venison, Roasted.—Take a fine loin of mutton, and hang it in a cool, airy situation for a week or more. Two days betore it is to be dressed, bone it, remove the kidney fat and the skin from the upper part, and rub into the meat a powder made of two ounces of brown sugar, an ounce of ground black pepper, and a quarter of an ounce of allspice. Put it into an earthenware pan, pour upon it two or three wine-glassfuls of port, and cover with the skin. Turn and rub it twice a day. Sponge lightly with lukewarm water to clear it from the spice, dry it perfectly, wrap it in the skin, cover with coarse paste, and roast according to the directions already given for roasting haunch of venison. Serve with strong unflavoured mutton gravy and with venison sauce. Time to roast the mutton, thirteen minutes to the pound, when weighed with the paste. Probable cost, 1s. per pound. ” Venison, Mutton Cooked like:— Take a fillet of the leg of mutton, and steep is VEN ( 1083 } VEN for a-day or two, according to the season, in a mixture of vinegar, onions, thyme, bay-leaves, salt, nutmeg, and pepper; then roast the meat, and gerve with sauce d la poivrade. Venison, Neck of, to Roast.—A neck of venison should not be separated from the shoulder till the buck is quite stiff, otherwise the appearance of both joints will be spoilt. ‘Shorten the rib’bones, but do not cut through the fat; saw off the chine bone, and remove the small bones which cover the fillet part of the neck. Rollthe piece of fat from which the bones were taken over the ribs. Wrap the neck in oiled paper, then in a stiff paste of flour and wator, and afterwards in greased paper again. Tie the coverings securely on with tape, and roast the neck according to the directions already given for roasting haunch of venison. When done enough, serve with the same ac- companiments as the haunch. A neck of veni- son should properly be roasted on a cradle spit. When this is not at hand, three skewers should be put through it, and the spit should be put between them and the bones. Although it is best to cover the neck with the paste, this | is oftener than not omitted, and the neck is enveloped in buttered paper only. Time to roast a neck of venison, eleven minutes to the pound. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain Venison, Oxford John of.—Take scme slices of equal size, and half an inch thick, from a well-kept leg, loin, or neck of venison. Season these rather highly with powdered spice, and fry in hot fat till they are brown on both sides. Put them in a stewpan, pour over them equal portions of claret and strong brown gravy, enough to cover them, and add a table- spoonful of white wine vinegar, half a tea- spoonful of powdered sugar, and a few fried bread-crumbs. Cover the saucepan closely, and heat the sauce gently till it is close upon the point of boiling. Put the slices of venison on a dish, strain the sauce over, and serve very hot. If liked, the slices may be marinaded for an hour or two in the wine, vinegar, and spice, before being fried. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Pasty.—Venison pasty is gene- rally made of the portions of venison which do not roast very well, such as the neck, breast, and shoulders, though even the neck is more generally roasted. ‘The pasty should properly contain venison only. When game and force- eat are introduced, it is known no more as venison pasty but as game pie. Wash the veni- .8on in vinegar, sprinkle a little sugar upon it, and hang it in a cool, airy situation for ten days, or a fortnight in favourable weather. Tt should not hang too long, and should be examined night and morning and dried with a cloth. When it is to be used, sponge it over with lukewarm water, and dry it with a soft cloth. Bone it, trim away all the skin, and cut it into pieces two inches square. Line a baking-dish entirely with good stiff pastry. Put in the pieces of meat, fat and lean together. If there is not sufficient fat belong- ing to the venison, a thin slice of the firm fat of a loin cr neck of mutton may be put in with each piece of lean venison. Season the meat with pepper and salt only, put half a pound of butter over it, and pour in a quarter of a pint of stock or water. Cover the dish with thick. pastry, orriament the top, mako an opening in the centre, and lay a sheet of letter-paper over it. Bake in a moderately- heated oven. Whilst it is being baked, put the bones and trimmings of the venison into a stewpan with a pinch of powdered mace, a little pepper and salt, and three pints of: water. Simmer the gravy till it is strong and plea- santly flavoured and reduced to less than half the quantity. Strain it, let it cool, and remove the fat. When the pie is done enough, beat the gravy with a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice anda glassful of port. Pour it into the pie, by means of a pointed strainer, through the hole in the centre, incline the dish a little to each side that the gravy may penetrate to all parts, and serve hot orcold. Time to bake the pasty, two hours to three hours and a half, according to size. If the under-crust is omitted, the pie will not need to bake so long. Unless the pastry is thick it will be burnt up before the meat is done enough. Many cooks partially stew the venison before putting it into the pie. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Pasty (another way).—If the meat is fresh, keep it for a fortnight or three weeks, cut it into pieces, boil it well, and make good gravy;. season with pepper, salt, port wine, vinegar, and a little sugar (according to taste); if not fat, put ina little fat mutton. Let it get cold, and then pack it in a dish 'as close as you can pack it, and put it into the oven. Venison Pasty (another way).—A modern pasty is made of what does not roast well, as the neck, the breast, or shoulder. The breast -makes a good pasty. Cut it into little chops, trimming off the bones and skin; make some good gravy from the bones and other trim- mings; place fat and lean pieces of the meat together, or, if very lean, place thin slices from the firm fat of a lee or a neck of mutton along with each piece; season the meat with black pepper, salt, pounded mace, and allspice; place it handsomely in a dish, and put in the drawn gravy, a quarter of a pint of claret or port, a ‘wine-glassful of shallot vinegar, and if liked ‘a couple of onions very finely shred. - Cover the dish with a thick crust. Before serving the pasty, if the meat is lean, more sauce, made of a little wine, gravy, mixed spice, and the ‘juice of a lemon may be put in hot. An hour anda half in a moderate oven is quite sufficient for baking an ordinary-sized pasty; an hour will do for a small one. Some cooks marinade the meat in the wine and other seasonings for a night, or for some hours previous to baking. This no doubt imbues the venison with the flavour of the seasonings, but at the same time draws off the juices and hurts the natural flavour of the meat. Venison Pasty, Pastry for.—Pastry for venison pasty should be good and short, but stiff. For a rich pasty, it may be made in the proportion of ten ounces of butter to one pound VEN { 1084 ) VEN of four, and worked to a smooth stiff paste with two eggs and a little lukewarm water. For an ordinary pasty, rub three or four ounces of butter into a pound of flour, and work it toa smooth stiff paste with a beaten egg and a little lukewarm water. Venison Pasty, to Keep for some time.—Cut the meat of a breast or shoulder of venison into pieces two inches square. Season these with pepper and salt, adding if liked a small pinch of grated nutmeg. Put them, fat and lean together, into a baking-dish, place a good slice of butter upon them, and cover the dish with a coarse paste of flour and water. Bake the pasty in a moderately-heated oven for a couple of hours, and keep it ina cool dry place. When wanted, remove the coarse crust, line the edges and sides of the dish with good pastry, pour ina small quantity of strong gravy, cover with pastry, and bake in a good oven till the pastry is firm. Time to bake the pastry, about an hour. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Pickled Melons to Serve with.—Take some small melons, not fully ripe, skin, seed, and slice them, put them in an earthen jar, and pour over them as much vine- gar as will cover them. Let them lie for eight or ten days. Drain them, put them into a saucepan, pour fresh vinegar upon them, and simmer gently till they are so tender that a fork will pierce them easily Drain and dry them on a sieve. Put them into large wide-mouthed glass bottles, pour thin syrup over to cover them entirely, and leave them | in a cool place for about eight or nine days. Pour half the liquor from them, and fill the bottles with vinegar which has been boiled and allowed to cool. Cover the bottles with skin, and store the pickle for use. The ingredients for the syrup should be in the following pro- portions: twelve ounces of sugar, one pint of water, three cloves. Strain the cloves from the syrup before pouring over the melons. Venison, Potted.—Place the venison in a pan, pour red wine over it, cover with a pound of butter; put a paste over the pan, and set it in the oven to bake. When done enough, wake the meat out of the gravy, beat it well with the butter that has risen to the top, add more if necessary, season with salt, pepper, and pounded mace. Put the venison into pots, set them for a few minutes in the oven; withdraw them, wait till they are cold, and then cover with clarified butter. Venison, Potted (another way).—Rub the venison with vinegar if it is stale, and let it lie an hour. Then dry it with a cloth, and rub it all over with red wine. Season with pepper, salt, and mace, and put it into an earthen pot or jar. Pour over it half a pint of red wine, and a pound of butter, and put it in the oven till it is quite tender. When it is done, pick it clean from the bones and.skin, and beat it in a mortar with the fat and gravy. If you find it not sufficiently seasoned, add more, and keep beating till it is a fine paste. Then press it hard down into the pots, and pour clarified butter over it. The wino may be omitted if not approved. Venison Pudding.—Take two pounds of venison from the neck or loin; cut the meat, fat and lean together, into neat pieces, and season these with salt and pepper. Put them in a saucepan, cover with water, and simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Lift them out, and let them get cold. Line a pudding-basin with pastry half an inch thick. Put the venison into it, pour over it a quarter of a pint of the gravy, to which a wine- glassful of port has been added, and cover in the usual way. Press the edges securely to- gether that the gravy may not escape. Wring a pudding-cloth out of boiling water, flour well, and tie the pudding loosely in it. Plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Let it stand a few minutes before turning it out. Send the remainder of the gravy to table in a tureen. Time to boil the pudding, about an hour and a half, Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Roast (a German recipe).— Hang the venison for ten days ora fortnight in a cool dry place. At the end of that time wash and wipe it, then beat it well. Flay off the skin. Take bacon-strips rather more than two inches long, and lard all over the fleshy parts. Roast or bake the meat, basting constantly; use sour cream or butter and milk for the purpose. Send to table with a sauce made by adding water to the bastings, skimming and straining, and adding pepper, salt, and lemon- juice. Venison, Saddle of, Crusted (a Ger- man recipe).—The venison must be hung some time, but not long enough to be high. After washing, lay it in a broad pan to cook with cold water enough to cover it; and in this put a small tea-cupful of vinegar, two or three carrots, onions, bay-leaves, a good bunch of sweet-herbs, including basil and a sprig of marjoram, some salt, pepper, about twenty juniper berries, as many whole pimento, and six cloves. Let it come slowly to a scalding heat. Skim and leave it to simmer two hours or more, according to size. It must be done tender. Then take it up, spread over it a beaten egg, and on this sprinkle a thick layer of bread-crumbs mixed with a table-spoonful of moist sugar, a tea-spoonful of powdered cin- namon, and half a dozen pounded cloves. Brown bread is best for this. The coating must be a third of an inch thick or more. Skim off a little of the fat boilings, and sprinkle over the crumbs with it. Put the venison in the oven, and let it bake a nice brown. Serve good fruit sauce with it. Venison, Sauce for (see Old Currant Sauce for Sucking-pig, Venison, &c.). Venison, Sauces for.—In addition to the strong unflavoured gravy—a recipe for making which has already been given (see Venison, Gravy for)—venison is usually accom- panied by either a sweet or a piquant sauce. Several recipes are here given. No.1. Melé a little red-currant jelly, and send it ¢o tatle VEN ( 1086 ) VEN io a tureen; or, without melting it, turn it upon @ glass dish, and serve cold. No. 2. Simmer the trimmings of the venison for half an hour in as much mutton gravy or water as will barely cover them. Strain and skim the liquor, and put it into a saucepan with a large table-spoonful of red-currant jelly, a table-spoonful of powdered white sugar, and alarge wine-glassful of port or claret. Let the sauce simmer gently till it is quite hot, and then serve. No. 3. Bruise an inch of stick cinnamon, and put it, with the rind of half a lemon, into a saucepan. Add a quarter of a pint of red-currant jelly and a table-spoonful of port. Boil the sauce for five minutes, and serve. No. 4 (old-fashioned sauce). Clean two ounces of currants, and boil them for five minutes inhalfa pint of water. Add a glassful of port, half a tea-cupful of finely-grated bread- crumbs, an ounce of butter, and four cloves. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire for ten minutes, remove the cloves, andserve. Currants washed and dried are sometimes served instead of this sauce. No. 5. Put two ounces of pow- dered white sugar into a stone jar with a quarter of a pint of white wine vinegar. Heat the sauce till the sugar is dissolved, and serve. Aglassful of claret and a pinch of cayenne may be added to this sauce if liked. No. 6. Puta quarter of a pint of strong unflavoured mutton gravy into a saucepan, and add a large glassful of claret, and a small glassful of raspberry vinegar. Simmer the sauce till it is hot, and serve. Venison, Shallot for (see Shallot for Venison). Venison, Shoulder of, Marinaded. —Make a marinade by mixing together a pint of vinegar and a tea-spoonful of black pepper. Remove the bones from a shoulder of venison, flatten it on a table, and lay it, with the neck (from which half a pound of the meat has been cut), in the marinade. Let it lie for twelve hours. Mince the meat which was cut off with four ounces of fat bacon, and add a pinch of cayenne and a little grated nutmeg. Spread this forcemeat on the inside of the shoulder, roll and bind it tightly, and roast in the usual way. Serve with strong unflavoured gravy, and sweet or piquant sauce. Time to roast. the joint, two hours to two hours and a half, according to size. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Shoulder of, Roast.—Be vareful that the shoulder of venison is not sepa- rated from the neck till the buck is cold and stiff, otherwise the appearance of both joints will be spoilt. Let the shoulder hang in a cool airy situation as long as it can be kept untainted. Examine twice a day, and wipe away any moisture that may appear. Cover all over with thin slices of mutton fat. It is important that this should be done, because the meat has none of its own. Wrap it in greased paper, then in a stiff flour and water paste, and afterwards in greased paper again. Hang it before a sound clear fire, roast, and serve like a haunch, with the same accompaniments. The flour and water paste is sometimes omitted; the slices of mutton fat should never be. Time to roast a shoulder of venison, about an hour and three-quarters. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Shoulder of, Stewed.— Bone the shoulder, and flatten it on a table. Season with a savoury powder made of two table-spoonfuls of salt, half a tea-spoonful of cayenne, half a tea-spoonful of pounded mace, and a tea-spoonful of powdered white sugar. Lay over the joint thin slices of the fat of a loin of mutton, roll tightly, and bina securely with tape. Place it in a stewpan as nearly as possible of its own size, pour over it as much stock as will cover it, let it boil, skim it, and simmer gently till tender. Turn it over when half done. Take it up, remove the tape, and lay the venison on a dish. Strain the gravy, thicken with brown thickening, season with salt and cayenne, add a glassful of wine, and serve with the meat. Time te stew the venison, three to four hours, accord- ing to size. Probable cost, very uncertain. Venison, Shoulder of, Stewed (an- other way).—Let the meat hang as long as it will keep sweet. Take out the bone, and beat the meat with a rolling-pin; lay some slices of mutton fat that have been soaked a few hours in a little red port; sprinkle a little pepper and allspice over it in fine powder; roll it _up tight, and tie it. Set it in a stewpan that will just hold it with some mutton or beef gravy, or broth, a quarter of a pint of port wine, some pepper and allspice. Cover close, and simmer as slowly as you can for three or four hours. When quite tender, take off the tape, set the meat on a dish, and strain the gravy over it. Serve with currant jelly. Venison Soup.—Cut two pounds of the breast of venison into small pieces, and place these, with a pound of the knuckle of veal and a couple of ounces of lean ham, in a stewpan. Pour over them three quarts of cold water, and add a large onion cut small, half a blade of mace, a few sticks of celery, and a little salt and whole pepper. Let it stew till the goodness is entirely drawn out of the venison. Rub it through a sieve, thicken with brown thicken- ing, add a large glassful of port or madeira, boil a quarter of an hour longer, and serve very hot. Time to simmer the soup, about three hours and a half. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison Soup (another way).—Take the broken-up bones, trimmings, and remains of various kinds of game; put them into a stewpan, pour over them three quarts of stock made from beef or mutton bones, and stew gently for two hours. Strain the soup, pick the meat from the bones, let it get cold, and pound till smooth with a little butter. Stir it into the strained stock, and put it back into the stew- pan with a carrot, an onion, a few sticks of celery, a blade of mace pounded, and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer the soup half an hour, and skim carefully. Cut some fresh venison into neat slices, flour these, and brown them in the frying-pan. Put them into the soup, and stew them till tender but not overdone. Take out the vegetables, add a glassful of port and VEN ( 1086 ) VER a table-spoonful of red-currant jelly to the soup, and serve it with the meat in the dish. ‘Time, about four hours. Venison Soup, Brown.—Cut about a pound and a half of the breast of venison into small pieces, and stew them with a small piece of fresh butter for half an hour. Turn them about occasionally, and be careful that they do. not burn. Mix a quart of cold water with a quarter of a pint of the blood, put the liquor into a separate stewpan, and stir till it boils. Put the stew into it, and add six or eight black peppercorns, an onion minced small, and the red part of a carrot grated: then simmer the soup gently for from one hour and a half to two hours. Strain the soup, and thicken with brown thickening. Put the meat into it again, add a glassful of wine, make it thoroughly hot, and serve. When the blood is objected to, it may be omitted, and beef or mutton stock substituted for the water. French beans cut into diamonds, and carrots and turnips cut into dice, may be served with this soup. Venison Soup, made from the Remains of Cold Roast Venison.— Break up the bone into small pieces, put it into a stewpan, and cover with cold water, or with: stock, if at hand. Put with it two carrots, two onions, each stuck with a clove, and a little pepper and salt. Let the’ liquor boil, skim carefully, and simmer: gently for three hours or more. Strain it, and thicken with a little brown thickening. Let it simmer again: by the side of the fire till it has thrown up its grease, then skim it. Let it boil again, add a table-spoonful of red-currant jelly and a glass- ful of port or claret, and serve very hot. Cut some stale bread into dice, fry these in hot fat, drain them on a. sieve before the fire, and send: them to table with the soup. If there be any meat left on the bones, it may be cut up, and either stewed and rubbed through a sieve or pounded toa pulp. and stirred into the soup. ‘Time, four to five hours. Venison Steaks, Broiled.—Cut the sicaks an inch thick from the leg or the loin of venison. Make the gridiron hot, rub the bars with a little suet, and place the steaks upon it over a clear fire. Turn them every two minutes to preserve the gravy. Make the steak dish very hot; put on it for each pound of venison an ounce of butter, a table-spoonful of liquid red- currant jelly, a table-spoonful of wine, or, as a substitute, boiling stock or water, and a little pepper and salt. Turn the broiled steaks in the sauce once or twice, and. serve very hot. By way of variety, the butter only may be put into, the dish under the steaks; and stewed mush- rooms may be served with the venison; or thin slices of lemon may be laid on the steaks for the last two or three minutes that they are being broiled, and then served with them. Time, from twenty to twenty-five minutes to broil the steaks. Probable cost of venison, very un- certain. Venison Steaks, Fried.—Cut some steaks half an inch thick from a leg or loin of venison, season with pepper and ‘salt, dip them in flour, and put them in the frying-pan _the liquor is reduced to a pint. with some hot fat. Keep them covered till they are brightly browned on ono side, then take off the cover, turn them, and let them brown quickly upon the other. Be careful that they are not overdone. Pour a wine-glassful of boil- ing stock or water into the pan, add a table- spoonful of red-currant jelly and w glassful of port or claret if liked; stir the sauce over the fire for a few minutes, and serve ‘very hot. Probable cost of venison, very uncertain. Venison, Wholesomeness of.—Veni- son is less nutritive than beef, but is more easily digested. Indeed, venison, if kept for some time, is one of the most easily digested articles of animal food, and well fitted for dys- peptics. When used by such persons, it should be plain roasted, and rather underdone; and they should eat it without any sweet condi- ments, using merely table-salt. It should be kept for some time to make it tender, but not so long as to begin to decay, as is often done. Venus’s Jelly.—Boil a quarter of a pound of hartshorn shavings in a quart of water till Strain, and simmer in it the thin rind of a large lemon and of an orange. When sufficiently flavoured, pour it out, and let it get cold. Sweeten to taste, add the strained juice of the fruit, a large wine-glassful of sherry, and the whisked whites and crushed shells of two eggs. Put the liquor on the fire, stir briskly for a minute or two, then let it simmer without being touched for ten minutes. Lift the pan gently from the fire, and let the liquor stand to settle for ten minutes. Pour it through a jelly-bag, and strain till clear. Colour with a few drops of cochineal. Verder, or Milk Punch.—Iub the rind of half a dozen lemons and as many oranges with lumps of sugar till the yellow part is taken off, Pare off very thinly what cannot be rubbed into the sugar, and soak this in a bottle of rum or brandy for two days. Be careful not to take any of the white part of the lemon, as this would make the punch bitter. Strain the spirit, put with it the juice of the lemons, which has been squeezed upon two pounds of sugar (in- cluding the lumps upon which the lemons were rubbed), four quarts of water, and a pint of boiling-hot milk. Run the preparation through a jelly-bag, and keep it in a stone jar, closely corked, for six weeks. This beverage is not much used nowadays. Verder, or Milk Punch, uickly made.—Sweeten'a small tea-cupf of hot ‘milk, and add it, with a glassful of brandy, to a quart of lemonade. Strain through a jelly- bag, and it will be fit for use. Verjuice.—Verjuice, or the juice of green fruits, is an acid liquor expressed from crabs, sour grapes, and unripe gooseberries, and used in sauces,or ragotits as a substitute for lemon- juice; indeed, for some dishes experienced cooks prefer verjuice to lemon-acid. To pre- pare it from unripe grapes, gather the. grapes ‘while they are transparent, and extract the juice from them by a wine or cider, press, or by. pressing them in a cloth. Filter it re« VER ( 1087 ) VER peatedly till it is clear.- Bottle it, and expose it to‘the sun, uncorked, for six or seven days. The liquor will ferment, and the bottles must be filled up every morning. To preserve it, an ounce of salt should be added to each pint of juice, and it should be kept in well-closed bottles. Gooseberry verjuiee is much used in France. It is sweetened and coloured, and sold as “Syrup de Groseilles.’”? It is made just like ape verjuice. When crab-apples are made use of for this purpose, they must be gathered fully ripe, then piled in a heap, and left for a few days to sweat before the juice is expressed from them. All decayed apples must of course be discarded. As verjuice is very liable to undergo decomposition, the vessels in which it is to be preserved should be sulphured before it is put into them. To do this, introduce into the jars a burning match that has been dipped in melted sulphur, fill the bottles while they are full.of the smoke, and cork instantly and very securely. Vermicelli.—Vermicelli is a preparation of wheaten flour, of a substance similar to macaroni, the difference between them being that ‘the latter is made in larger tubes. It is in the form of long threads, and derives its name from its worm-like appearance, as vermi- ~ eelli means little worms. It is of Italian origin, and ‘with macaroni forms the principal food of the people in Italy. It is used amongst us in soups and broths, and for making puddings, &c. Vermicelli (a Ja Reine).—Blanch the ver- micelli in boiling water, drain it, and throw it into some rich consommé well seasoned. When done, a short time before serving thicken it with the yolks of eight eggs mixed with cream, and pour the vermicelli into the tureen for fear the thickening should get too much done, which would be the case if it remained on the corner of the stove. © Vermicelli (au lait)—Boil a quart of milk, and drop lightly into it six ounces of vermicelli which -has been blanched in boiling water to free it from all impurities. Simmer gently, and stir frequently to keep it from getting into lumps. When tender, sweeten it and send it to table. Time to boil the vermi- celli, fifteen to twenty-five minutes, according to quality. Vermicelli Chestnuts for Dessert. —Peel the brown skin from twenty fine chestnuts. Put them in a saucepan, and cover with water. ‘When they begin to be hot, take off the second skin very carefully. Put them into a preserving-pan, cover with thin syrup, and'simmer gently till tender. Take them up, and put them upon a dish. Throw into the syrup two or three inches of thin lemon- rind, or a small piece of stick vanilla, and boil it till thick and pleasantly flavoured. Strain it,.and put the chestnuts ‘into it again. Rub them through a hair sieve into the dish in which they are to be served, and do not let: the purée be touched till it is sent to table. In appearance it will some-' } what resemble vermicelli. ‘Time to simmer the chestnuts, twenty minutes. Vermicelli, Chinese Preparation of. —‘A dough is prepared out of small green peas by soaking them thoroughly in water, and grinding them between stones, adding water, and pressing them through a sieve, then sub- jecting the mass obtained to pressure in a strong vessel, and thus removing the water.. This dough, well softened with water, is poured through a gourd vessel, usually with ten holes in it, into a vessel of boiling water; the higher the gourd above the boiling water the longer and finer the vermicelli. On removal from va ee water the threads are immediately ied. Vermicelli, Portuguese.—Break lightly three ounces of vermicelli. Soak it in water for an hour, drain it, and put it into a saucepan with a pint of milk and an inch of stick vanilla, or a little lemon-rind. Let it simmer gently for an hour and a quarter. Take out the flavouring ingredient, stir into it three additional table-spoonfuls of milk, and sweeten to taste. Simmer twenty minutes longer. Let it cool a little, then stir. into it four well-beaten eggs. Beat it over the fire till it is on the point of boiling, draw it back, and add a small wine-glassful of thick cream and another of brandy. When wanted, put, it into a glass dish, and keep it in a cool place till it is to be served. A few minutes before it is wanted, crush three macaroons to powder, and sprinkle the dust thus obtained over the vermicéelli. Time, four hours. Probable cost, _ 1s. 4d, exclusive of the brandy. Sufficient for five or six persons. Vermicelli Pudding (a German recipe). —Take a pint of milk, and boil it with six ounces of butter; throw in at the moment of boiling three ounces of vermicelli, and stir till it thickens and no longer adheres to the sides of the pan. ‘Take the preparation off the fire, and when cool stir in-two ounces of powdered sugar, an ounce of powdered almonds, including four bitter ones, the grated peel of half a lemon, a little spice if liked, and the yolks of six eggs; then add the whites of the eggs whisked to snow. Boil the pudding briskly for an hour in a well-buttered form. Serve with a fruit or wine sauce. Vermicelli Pudding, Baked, Plain. —Flavour a pint and a quarter of milk with cin- namon, lemon-rind, or grated nutmeg. Strain and boil it, and drop into it gradually when boil- ing a quarter of a pound of vermicelli. Stir it over the fire till it is tender and the milk is thick. It will take about a quarter of an hour. Pour it into a bowl, and beat it well with a pinch of salt and a little powdered sugar. When nearly cold add one well-whisked egg. Butter a pie-dish, pour in the pudding, and bake in a moderate oven. When it is nicely browned upon the top it. is done enough. If a richer pudding is required, an additional egg or more should be put in, together with a quarter of a pint of cream and a little brandy. Time to bake the _ pudding, three-quarters of an hour. Probable : cost, 6d. Sufficient for four, or five persons. Vermicelli ‘Pudding, | Boiled.—Put four ounces of fresh vermicelli into a Saucepan: VER ( 1088 ) VER with a pint and a quarter of milk. Bring it | or ei, D : a quarterof a pound of vermicelli, which blanch gently to the boil, and simmer it, stirring all the time, till it is tender, and the milk thick. It will take from ten to fifteen minutes. Pour it into a bowl, let it cool, sweeten it, and fla- vour with lemon and nutmeg. Add a pinch of salt, and stir in gradually three well-beaten eggs. Butter thickl; the inside of a mould. Stick raisins here and there upon it, and pour in the vermicelli and milk very gently, so as not to disturb the raisins. Let the mould be quite full. Place a round of buttered paper on the top, tie the pudding firmly in a floured cloth, plunge it into a saucepan of fast-boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly till done enough. Move it occasionally for the first quarter of an hour to prevent any of the ingre- dients from settling to the bottom. Astho water boils away add more, boiling. Let the pudding stand four minutes after it is taken out of the water, and place it on a hot dish. Pour sweet sauce round it, and serve. If more convenient, the pudding may be steamed instead of being boiled. Time, one hour and a quarter to boil or steam the pudding. Probable cost, 10d, Sufficient for four or five persons. Vermicelli Pudding, Rich.—Simmer the rind of half a lemon and half an inch of stick cinnamon in a quart of milk till it is pleasantly flavoured. Strain it, let it boil, and drop into it lightly and gradually four ounces of fresh vermicelli. Stir constantly, and boil gently for twenty minutes. Turn it into a bowl, and stir into it a slice of fresh butter, a table-spoonful of thick cream, and sugar to sweeten it sufficiently. Beat, first separately and afterwards together, the yolks of six and the whites of three eggs. Stir them into the pudding, pour it into a thickly-buttered pie- dish, and bake in a gentle oven. Serve with powdered sugar sifted thickly over it, and with wine sauce as an accompaniment. Instead of wine sauce, jam or fresh stewed fruit may be sent to table with it. Time to bake the pudding, about an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 4d. Sufficient for five or six persons. Vermicelli Pudding with Apples.— Put a quart of milk into a saucepan with a thin strip of lemon-rind, bring it gently to the boil, remove the lemon-rind, and drop lightly and gradually into it four ounces of very fresh ver- micelli. Simmer over a gentle fire, stirring it all the time till it is quite tender and very thick. Turn it into a bowl, work into it a Jarge slice of fresh butter, and sweeten to taste. Let the pudding become almost cold, stir into it two, three, four, or five well-beaten eggs, according to the kind of pudding required, and add a spoonful of brandy if liked. Butter a dish, turn the pudding into it, and cover the surface with good baking apples which have been pared, cored, and thinly sliced. Press them into the pudding, so that they may be covered with the batter, and bake the pudding in a moderately-heated oven till the fruit is tender. Time to bake the pudding, three- quarters of an hour. Probable cost, 10d. or more, according to quality. Sufficient for half a dozen persons. Vermicelli Soup.—For eight people take in boiling water to take off the taste of dust. Strain it, and throw it into some broth that is boiling, otherwise the vermicelli will stick together, and cannot be separated unless crumbled into a thousand pieces, Mind, the vermicelli must be boiled in broth before you mix it with any of the purée, and take care to break the vermicelli before you blanch it in the water, otherwise it will be in long pieces and unpleasant to serve up. Vermicelli Soup (another way).—Take a knuckle of veal and a scrag of mutton, from each of which cut the flesh into small pieces about the size of walnuts, and mix them together with five or six slices of ledn ham. Put into the bottom of your pan about four ounces of butter, and then your meat; to which add four blades of mace, three carrots, two parsnips, two large onions with a clove stuck on both sides of each, four or five cut heads of celery, a bunch of sweet herbs, ten morels, and an anchovy. When these are prepared and mixed together in the pan, cover it very close, and set it over a slow fire without any water until the gravy is drawn out of the meat. This being effected, pour it into an earthen pan, and let the meat brown; then add to it four quarts of water. Let the whole stew gently until wasted to three pints, then strain it, and add the gravy reserved. Set it on the fire, add ten ounces of vermicelli, a head of celery cut small, cayenne pepper and salt, and let the whole simmer for about six minutes. Lay a French roll in the bottom of the tureen, pour the soup upon it, strew some vermicelli on the surface, and serve up. Vermicelli Soup (another way).—Break lightly four ounces of Italian vermicelli, and soak it in cold water for half an hour. Drain it, and drop it into three pints of boiling stock. Add a spoonful of mixed mustard, half a tea- cupful of grated Parmesan, a lump of sugar, and a little salt. Stir frequently, and simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Pour into it two additional pints of stock, simmer a few minutes longer, and serve. Send some grated Parmesan to table with the soup on a separate dish. A little sherry or marsala may be thrown into the soup if liked, and will greatly improve its favour. Time, one hour. Vermicelli Soup, Clear.—Lightly break a quarter of a pound of vermicelli, to prevent it hanging in long threads over the side of the spoon as the soup is carried to the mouth. Put it into boiling water, let it boil for five minutes, drain it, and it will be ready for the soup. If it cannot be immediately used, cool it by putting it into cold water (if it is left in a sieve to strain while hot, it will become lumpy, and will not again dissolve). "When cold, drain it again, and it will be ready for use. If the ver- micelli is not thus blanched before it is put into the soup, it will in all probability impart a cloudy look to the liquor. Boil ‘three pints of bright, clear stock already seasoned and flavoured, put in the vermicelli, simmer ' ' gently till tender, and stir it now and then “4 VER to keep it from getting into lumps. When tender, serve in a tureen. Grated Parmesan cheese served on a separate dish is a great improvement to this soup. It may of course be dispensed with. Time to boil the vermicelli, twelve to twenty minutes, according to quality. It must not be overcooked, or it will be spoilt. Sufficient for six or eight persons. Vermicelli Soup, White.—Take two or three pints of white stock seasoned with salt, cayenne, and pounded mace, and flavoured with a turnip, a carrot, an onion, and a bunch of parsley. Put the crumb of a French roll in as much of the liquor as it will absorb, let it simmer till it is quite soft, and beat it smooth with the back of a wooden spoon. Stir it into the soup, boil for a quarter of an hour, and add half a pint of boiling cream. Blanch two ounces of vermicelli by boiling it in water for five minutes, drain it, put it into fresh water, and boil till it is tender. Put it into a tureen, pour the boiling soup upon it, and serve very hot. If cream is not to be had, the yolk of an egg and half a pint of milk may be used instead. Stir the boiling milk into the soup, beat the egg in the tureen, mix a little of the soup with it, and add the rest. Put in the vermicelli, and serve. Time, twelve to twenty minutes to boil the vermicelli. Sufficient for five or seven persons. Vermicelli Soup, White anne way).—Boil a quart of nicely-flavoured stock, break lightly two ounces of vermicelli, and blanch it in boiling water for five minutes, then put it into the soup, and boil till tender. Beat the yolk of an egg with two table-spoon- fuls of cream. A few minutes before it is to be served, mix a spoonful or two of the soup with the egg, add it to the rest, and let it simmer gently for a short time, but the soup must not boil after the egg is added. Put a French roll into the bottom of a tureen, pour the soup over it, and serve. A few leaves of green chervil or finely-shred parsley may, if liked, be added to the soup to improve its ap ce. Time, from twelve to twenty minutes to boil the vermicelli. Vermicelli with Boiled Chicken.— Truss a tender chicken for boiling, put it into a’stewpan with two pounds of the cushion of bacon into which three or four cloves have been stuck. Add a small piece of white roux, or, failing this, half an ounce of butter mixed smoothly with flour, pour over it as much white stock as will cover it, and let all stew gently together for three-quarters of anhour. ‘Throw into the stock two ounces of vermicelli, and boil it till tender. Take up the fowl and bacon, and place them in separate dishes. Skim the stock, and pour it with the vermicelli over the fowl. Serve very hot. Time, two hours. Vermont Biscuits.—Rub six ounces of loaf sugar upon the rind of half a small fresh lemon until the yellow part has been rubbed off, then crush the sugar to powder, and mix with it five ounces of fine flour and the well- whisked yolks of three eggs. Put the mixture into a copper saucepan, and beat it briskly over a very geritle fire until smooth and thick, 69 --x.5. ( 1089 ) vic something like cream, then add the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a firm froth. Drop small portions from the end of a spoon upon waxed baking-sheets, and then put them into a cool oven. When they are firm and lightly browned they are done enough. Probable cost, 6d. for this quantity. Vermoute, or Wormwood Wine.— Put a tea-spoonful of the extract of wormwood in a pint of light wine. (Use the wine as a tonic.) _ St. George, a Hungarian wine, is used in the preparation of true vermoute, but this cannot always be procured. Wormwood is a plant which posesses intensely bitter tonic and stimulating qualities. It is frequently used in medicine. : Vesuvian Macaroni.—Wash a quarter of a pound of pipe macaroni, then let it simmer in a little veal gravy until it is quite tender but unbroken. Strain off the liquid, and put the macaroni into a stewpan with two ounces of finely-grated Parmesan cheese, two ounces of fresh butter broken into small pieces, and a little pepper and salt. Shake the saucepan over the fire for five or six minutes, then put its contents into a hot dish, and strew over the top four ounces of grated Parmesan, which should have been prepared beforehand. Send good brown gravy to table ina tureen. Serve immediately. Time, about half an hour to boil the macaroni. Probable cost, 1s.6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Vice-Chancellor’s Pudding.—Boil a quarter of a pint of milk and a quarter of a pint of cream with a dessert-spoonful of sugar and a small strip of lemon-rind. If liked, milk only should be used. Strain it over a slice of the crumb of bread, and let it stand till the bread has absorbed it. Beat it lightly with a fork, and add the yolks of two eggs, the white of one, a table-spoonful of brandy, a little grated nutmeg, and sugar to sweeten it. Pour the pudding into a well-buttered shape which it will quite fill, place a round of buttered paper on the top, tie it in a cloth, and boil till done enough. Let it stand for a minute or two, and turn it out. Time to boil the pudding, half an hour. Victoria Biscuits.—Put three ounces of fresh butter into a bowl, and beat it to cream; add, gradually, half a pound of powdered white sugar, six ounces of dried flour, three ounces of pounded bitter almonds, and the rind of a lemon which has ‘been rubbed upon sugar and crushed to powder. Moisten the mixture with a small glassful of liqueur, butter some small tins, dredge flour upon them, and bake in a tolerably brisk oven till they are lightly browned. Spread upon them thinly a little orange marmalade, dip them in glaze, and put them on a drainer in a cool oven for a few minutes till it is set. The glaze may be pre- pared as follows :—Boil together over a quick fire half a pound of refined sugar and a quarter of « pint of water. When bubbles appear on the surface of the syrup, dip the finger and thumb in cold water, and take a little of the sugar between them. Open them instantly, and when the thread between them is strong vic (1090 ) Vic and thick, take the sugar from the fire, let it cool a few minutes, and stir into it, gradually but briskly, whatever liquid flavouring is to be used. The glaze is now ready for the biscuits. Victoria Buns.—Beat two ounces of fresh butter to cream; add two ounces of powdered white sugar, an ounce and a half of ground rice, an ounce ,and a half of currants, a small piece of candied peel thinly sliced, a pinch of salt, and a well-beaten egg. Beat the mixture between every addition, and add as much flour as will make the dough firm and smooth. Divide it into eight portions, roll these into halls, place them on a buttered baking-tin, and bake them immediately ina brisk oven. If left to stand they will become heavy. Time to bake the buns, about half an hour. Probable cost, buns, 2d. each. Victoria Cake.—Put a pound and a quarter of fresh butter into a bowl, and beat it to cream. Add six ounces of powdered sugar, six, ounces of pounded sweet almonds,. with, two or three bitter ones, half an ounce of cinnamon powder, half a pound of dried cher- ries, a quarter of a pound of candied peel finely shred, a pound and a quarter of flour, a little salt, and four eggs. Beat the mixture quickly for a few minutes; then add gradually, beating the batter all the time, three-quarters of a pound of flour, eight eggs well beaten, and a large wine-glassful of brandy. Dissolve an ounce and a half of fresh German yeast in a spoonful of lukewarm water; make a hollow in the centre of the batter, pour in the yeast, and knead it thoroughly into the cake. Whip half a pint of cream to froth, and add this to the rest. Line a baking-tin with buttered paper, half fill it with the mixture, cover with a cloth, and set it in a warm place till it has risen to double the size, then bake immediately in a moderately-heated oven. When the cake is lightly browned, and when a skewer pushed . into it will come out clean and dry, it is done enough. If liked, this cake may be served as a pudding, with custard sauce. Probable cost, 6s. Victoria Cake (another way).—Rub the rind of two fresh lemons with sugar till the yellow part is taken off, crush the lumps to powder, and add as much powdered sugar as will make up the quantity to half a pound. Whisk the whites of three eggs to froth, stir in the sugar, and afterwards the beaten yolks of six eggs. Last of all, work in gradually and very thoroughly seven ounces of dried flour. Line a tin mould with buttered paper, pour in the batter, and bake the cake in a moderately- heated oven. When it is lightly brown, and when a skewer pushed into it will come out clean and dry, it is done enough. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. Victoria Pudding.—Boil a little piece of stick vanilla in a pint of milk till it is pleasantly flavoured, strain it upon six ounces of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and add three table-spoonfuls of sugar, one table-spoonful of brandy, and three well-beaten eggs. Butter a mould thickly, flour it, and ornament taste- fully -with dried cherries, slices of preserved citron, or stoned raisins. Pour. in the pudding ‘neat squares. quite cold, put a plate upon it, and steam it over boiling water. Let it stand: two or three minutes, turn it upon a hot dish, and serve with. Victoria sauce, or with melted red-cur- rant jelly poured round it. Time to steam the pudding, one hour and. a quarter. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for four or five persons. Victoria Pudding, Superior.—Shred finely half a pound of sound ‘beef, suet free from skin and fibre, put it into a bowl, and mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely- grated, bread-crumbs, six ounces of dried flour, four ounces of apples (weighed after they have been pared,. cored, and chopped), four ounces of apricot jam, three ounces. of finely-shréd candied citron, three ounces of dried cherries, and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and stir into them five well-beaten eggs, half a pint of cream or milk, and two table-spoonfuls of. brandy. Put the mixture into a buttered mould which it will quite fill, tie it in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Let it stand three or four minutes, turn it upon a glass, dish, and serve with brandy sauce. Time to boil the pudding, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or seven persons. , | Victoria Sandwiches, Savoury (for breakfast, luncheon, &c.).—Wash six or eight anchovies, cut off their heads and fins, take out the back-bones, and divide each fish in two, from the shoulder to the tail. Cut an equal number of thin slices of brown bread and butter; put, between two slices alternate layers of hard- boiled eggs, mustard and cress cut small, and the fillets of the anchovies; press the'slices closely together, and with a sharp knife cut them into Place them on a dish covered with a napkin, and garnish with parsley.: If not wanted immediately, cover them with a napkin wrung out of cold-water to keep them moist. ‘ Victoria Sandwiches, Sweet.—Beat half a pound of fresh butter to cream. Work in with it half a pound of powdered white sugar, half a pound of dried flour, and a pinch of salt. Add these ingredients gradually, and beat the mixture well between every addition. Whisk four large fresh eggs, stir them into the cake, and beat again for some minutes. Butter a shallow baking-tin, pour ‘the batter into it, and bake in a well-heated oven. Let it get cold; spread a little good.jam upon one half, place the other half upon it, press the pieces together, and sift powdered white sugar on the top. Cut the’cake into long fingers with a sharp knife, pile these crosswise on a glass dish, and they will be ready for serving. Time to bake the cake, twenty minutes. Probable cost, Is. 6d. Sufficient for half a dozen persons Victoria Sauce for Sweet Puddings. —Beat the yolk of an egg with three table- spoonfuls of cream; boil a table-spoonful:;of sugar to a syrup with a little water, stir into it the egg, &c., and a degsert-spoonful of curagoa. Beat the sauce rapidly over the fire till it begins to thicken; it is then ready for serving. It should look like rich cream. Time, a quarter * VIC ( 1091 ) VIN ofan heur. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for four or five persons. “ _ Victoria Soup (said to be a favourite with the Queen).— arolina rice. Throw it into boiling water, and boil it quickly for ten minutes. it in’ a‘stewpan, and pour upon it three pints of good‘nicely-flavoured white stock. Let it simmer gently till quite tender. Put aside two heaped table-spoonfuls of the rice; rub the rest through a sieve, and stir the pulp into the stock. Let it boil, and pour it upon the whole rice. Season with salt and pepper if required, and stir into it half a pint of boiling. eream or milk. Serve immediately. If liked, pearl barley may be used instead of rice. It must, of course, be partially boiled in water to remove the impurities before it is put into the . stock. Time to boil the rice, about ‘an hour andahalf. Sufficient for six or seven persons. . Vienna Cake (a German recipe).—Make four or five white paper plates by stretching the paper over any round utensil—a large dinner or soup-plate will do—plait up an edge an inch deep, and tack it round with needle and thread to keep it upright. Butter these papers, and lay them on baking-tins. Spread over each a layer of “sand tourte’’ mixture not thicker than a thin pancake. The sand tourte mixture is made thus :—Stir half a pound of butter to a cream, then add the yolks of twelve eggs and half a lemon-peel grated. Add by degrees half ' a@ pound of sifted sugar, quarter of a pound ef fine flour, and the same of potato flour. ‘When these ingredients are well mixed, add the egg-whites whipped to a snow. Bake the cakes in a moderate oven a nice yellow; do not let ‘ them tinge brown. When cold cut away the paper round, turn the cakes over, and peel off the bottom paper without breaking them. Lay one cake over the other, with different coloured. preserves and marmalades between, till all are piled up. Dissolve powdered sugar with a little lemon-juice, spread it thickly over the top and sides of the cake to make a glazing. Put it into a cool oven to dry, and when cold ornament the top. with preserved fruit or marmalade. ; Vienna Yeast.—The good: qualities’ of Vienna beer and bread are celebrated all over Germany, and are due to the excellence of the yeast used in preparing them. According to Dr. Vogel, the formula for preparing this sub- stance is as follows :—Previously malted barley, maize and rye, are ground up, and mixed; next put into water at ~ temperature of 150 * deg. to 170 deg. Fahr.; after a few hours the ‘saccharine liquid is decanted from the dregs, and the clear liquid brought into a state of fermentation by the aid of some yeast. The fermentation becomes:-very strong, and, by the force of the carbonic acid which is evolved, the yeast globules are carried to the surface of the liquid, and there form a thick scum, which is to be removed by a skimmer, placed on cloth filters, drained, washed with a little distilled water, and next pressed, into any desired shape by means of hydraulic pressure, and covered with a strong and stoutly-woven canvas. This ash half a pound of ‘best ' Drain it, ‘put : kind of yeast keeps from eight to fourteen days, according to the season, and is, both for bakers a brewers, very superior to that ordinarily used, ae Viennese Biscuits for Dessert.— Beat five eggs for fully a quarter of an hour with half a pound of powdered white sugar. Add gradually half a pound of flour, and beat the mixture again till it is light and smooth. Have ready some baking-sheets buttered and floured for the purpose. Put the batter into a biscuit-forcer, and gently press it. out upon the baking-sheets in shapes broad at the ends and narrow in the middle. Dredge -powdered white sugar on the surface, and bake the bis- cuits in a brisk oven. When they are lightly browned they are done enough. ‘Time to bake : the biscuits, about: eight minutes. Probable cost, 1s. for this quantity. _ Vinaigrette of Cold Meat.—Take any kind of cold dressed meat, cut it into neat slices, and put it upon a dish with cold pota- toes cut into slices, hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, and slices of beetroot. Season rather highly with pepper and salt, pour upon it oil and vinegar, in the proportion of three table- spoonfuls of oil to two of vinegar, and toss it lightly together with a fork. Sliced cucumber, chopped parsley, and finely-minced onion may be added if liked, and a few drops of tarragon or chilli vinegar may be mixed with the ordinary vinegar. Sometimes the various in- gredients are sent to table prettily arranged in ee round a dish, with the colours contrasting, and they are mixed with the salad dressing at the moment of serving. A vinaigrette of cold boiled beef is excellent. : Vinaigrette, Sauce 4 la.—Thisisasauce much used in Paris for vold viands. Sauce & la vinaigrette is composed of salad oil, vinegar, finely-chopped: parsley, and shallots, onions, or chives, with pepper and salt to taste. For those who have no objection to oil this sauce is infinitely superior to mere vinegar, pepper, and salt. It is suitable for every kind of cold meat, and especially for cold calf’s head; and is ad- mirable with cold salmon, turbot, or indeed any sort of cold fish. Hard-boiled eggs also eat extremely well with sauce a la vinaigrette; so do many kinds of coid vegetables, and -es- pecially asparagus; in fact, this is quite as often eaten cold as hot in Paris, and always & la vinaigrette. Cold artichokes are also very largely consumed with this sauce. When used with cold meat, and particularly with calf’s head, the addition of a few capers to the sauce is a great improvement; and with cold roast meat a gherkin cut up fine is excellent. As this is a sauce produced almost entirely out of the cruet-stand, its suits well with our English habits. You rub up the salt and pepper witha little vinegar, then add as much oil as you please, with chopped parsley, shallot, gherkins, or capers, according to convenience or taste. Vine Leaves, Wine from.—Gather the leaves when young, weigh them, wash them, and drain them. As the stems are full of flavour, they must on no account be picked VIN ( 1092 ) VIN from the leaves. Place them in a large tub, and pour upon them boiling water in the proportion of two gallons of water to ten pounds of leaves. Let them infuse for twenty-four hours. Drain them, and press the leaves strongly to extract all the juice from them. Pour an additional gallon of water upon them, and again press them. Dissolve in the mixed liquor sugar and tartar, allowing seven pounds of sugar and one ounce of tartar for every ten pounds of leaves. Cover the tub with a blanket, place a board upon that, and leave the liquor in a warm situa- tion for some hours. Draw it off into the small cask in which it is to ferment, and each day add a little of the superfluous juice, so as to keep the liquor near the bung-hole. When the fermenta- tion ceases, which will be when the hissing sound grows less, drive in the bung, and bore a hole by its side for the vent-peg. This peg may be loosened a little every two days for ten days, to keep the cask from bursting. Keep the wine in a cool cellar till December. Rack it into « fresh cask, and bottle during March. The leaves of vines from which no fruit is expected may be utilised in this way. . Vinegar.—Vinegar is an acid liquid, ob- tained by fermentation, and, when either plain orflavoured, used largely in cookery. White wine vinegar is generally considered the best. It is by no means the most wholesome. Bordeaux vinegar is perhaps to be preferred to any other for salads, sauces, and home-made pickles, and other preparations for which common vinegar is too strong in flavour. It may be obtained by order from any grocer. Vinegar may be economically made at home, either witha vinegar plant or with sugar and water (see Sugar Vinegar), or with sour wine, or even strong sour beer. All that is necessary is to provide at first a small cask of good vinegar, to keep it in a place where the temperature is mild, and, as it is drawn off, to fill it, and also to keep it always filled up with spoiled or sour wine. If a cask is chosen which has not contained vinegar before, a large bottleful of boiling vine- gar should be poured into it, shaken about till cold, and left in it for some hours. Vinegar may be made, too, from the pulp and husks of truit which have been used for making wine. To make it, pour boiling water on the refuse; let it stand some hours, and stir occasionally till the taste is completely drawn from the fruit. Strain the liquor, and add to every gallon a pound of strong coarse sugar and a table- spoonful of yeast. Let it work four or five days, put it into a vinegar cask, cover the bung- hole with a piece of tile or slate, and leave it in a warm situation for ten or twelve months till the vinegar is made. Put it in a cool place, and if the vinegar is not clear and bright, mix a little dissolved isinglass with it. Bung it up, or bottle for use. Vinegar made from the refuse of raisin wine is excellent (see Raisin Wine Vinegar). Vinegar was known for many ages before any other acid. It is mentioned by Moses, and indeed seems to have been common among the Israelites and other Eastern nations at a very early period. It was at first made from wine, and the formation of wine vinegar is probably as ancient as the liquor itself from which it was produced, although the improvement of the process has been the result of the observa- tion of ages. Vinegar was much in use among the Greeks and Romans, who employed it both in their cookery as a luxury and as a medicine. It was found highly useful in their armies; the soldiers being always obliged to carry some, for the purpose of mixing a little with water to obtain a grateful drink both cooling and excel- lent to quench thirst. The practice is still fol- lowed in some of the warmer parts of Europe; particularly among the Spanish peasantry, who are accustomed to mix about a gill of wine vinegar with a gallon of water and a tea- spoonful of salt for a common beverage; and with this drink alone, and bread, they frequently sustain the labours of the field, exposed to the heat of the sun in their warm climate, and are as healthy and athletic a race as any in Europe. Recipes for the following vinegars will be found under their respective headings :— AMERICAN (see Vine- gar, American) Herss, VINEGAR OF Honzy Bastu (see Vinegar, HorszrapisH Basil) Mave From THE VINE- Camp GAR PLANT (see Vine- CAYENNE gar, made, &c.) CELERY Marr (see Vinegar, CHILLI Malt) CipeR Mint (see aiso Green CrpER ia also Vine- Min) gar, Cider) MUuLBerry CoLour.ess (see Vine- Nasturtium gar, Colourless) Prerrer CucumBER Raisin WINE CucumBeR (see also RaspBzRey Vinegar, Cucumber) SuHauor Exper Frowzr anp Svuear Tarracon Sugar (see also Vine- Escuator (see Shallot) gar, Sugar) Gar.ic TARRAGON GoosEBERRY VioLeT (see Vinegar, Green Mint Violet) Harvey's, on CAMP Watnur Vinegar, Adulteration of.—The prin- cipal adulterations of vinegar are:— dilution with water; the addition of sulphuric acid; the substitution of pyroligneous for acetic acid; the use of burnt sugar as a colouring agent; and occasionally the addition of acrid sub- stances, as chillies and grains of Paradise. It is a curious fact, that although the vinegar maker obtains his malt vinegar without colour, he is obliged to add burnt sugar to colour it, in order to satisfy the public taste. This is a harmless addition, but it is one of those things which illustrate a feature in the adulteration of food, and that is, that a great deal of it is done to please the public taste. Vinegar, American.—Stir half a gallon of molasses into three gallons of boiling water, set it aside to cool; then add half a pint of fresh yeast, put it into the vinegar cask, and let it stand in a warm place for twenty-four hours; then put it in the sun. The bung-hole must not be quite closed, but covered with a little linen to keep out the insects. It will be ready VIN ( 1093 ) VIN for bottling in three months. Ifthe cask has not had vinegar in it before, it must have a little ‘boiling vinegar poured into it, be well shaken, and then be left with the vinegar in it until the next day. Time, about three months to stand. Probable cost, 1s. Gd. Sufficient for three gallons and a half. Vinegar and Lemon Whey (Invaup Cooxrry.)—Take a sufficient quantity of boiling milk, and pour into it as much vinegar or lemon whey as will make a small quantity quite clear, dilute with hot water to an agreeable acid, and add a lump or two of sugar. This drink is less heating than if made with wine, and, if only to excite perspiration, answers as well. Vinegar, Basil.—Fill a wide- mouthed bottle with fresh green basil-leaves, cover them with vinegar or wine, and let them steep for ten days. If a very strong essence be re- quired, the liquor must be strained off, and more leaves be added to it, to steep in it for another fortnight ; when this is done it must be corked down. When used, a table-spoonful will give to mock-turtle soup the basil flavour. Vinegar, Cider.—Cider is the principal source of vinegar in the northern states of North America. The common family method is as follows:—The vinegar barrel in summer is placed in the garret, or on the sunny side of a building, and in winter in a room where it does not freeze. The refuse cider, already sour, or the daily remnants of the family table, are added to some good vinegar in the barrel, or to the inother of vinegar, as it is called. This mother of vinegar is a white or yellowish ropy coagu- lum of a mucilaginous appearance which is formed in the vinegar, and acts as a ferment upon cider not yet thoroughly acidified. The fermentation is often aided by putting into it a piece of dough or lean animal muscle, or by adding molasses, or the sugar which falls spon- taneously from molasses. In a few weeks the vinegar will be formed. Vinegar, Colourless.—To render pick- ling vinegar colourless, which it should be for some sorts of pickles, stir together one gallon of the best pickling vinegar and six ounces of bone black (animal charcoal) ; let the mixture stand for two or three days, then pour off the clear vinegar. ‘Vinegar, Cucumber.—Take eighteen large cucumbers and six large onions; slice them thin, and put them into a pan with twelve shallots, one head of garlic, a table-spoonful of salt, the same of ground pepper, and a tea- spoonful of cayenne pepper. Add to these two quarts of good vinegar, and let it stand four days; then strain it through a flannel bag, and Leg it, with twenty peppercorns in each ttle. Vinegar for Salads.—Put into a jar two handfuls of tarragon, half a handful of cress, the same of chervil and of the young leaves of the pimpernel, and two cloves of garlic; fill the jar with vinegar, cover it closely, and let it infuse for eight days; then strain and bottle it. Vinegar, Fruit.—Take pears, apples, or any other juicy fruit, crush them well with a stamper, and put them in a suitable tub. For every two bushels of fruit add four gallons of boiling water. Stir well, and set the prepara- tion in a warm place for a week, skimming off impurities whenever fermentation arises. At the end of that time strain the vinegar through strong fine linen, pressing the pulp. Put the Juice in a barrel, stir in a pint of yeast, and throw in a piece of bread. Let the cask be quite full; put the bung in loosely, and throw over it @ piece of flannel. Set in a warm place for a month or six weeks, when the vinegar will be fit for bottling. Vinegar made with a Vinegar Plant.—Boil half a pound of coarse brown sugar and half a pound of treacle in two gallons of water, stir it well, put it into a large Jar, and when it is lukewarm put on it a vinegar plant. Let it stand in a warm place for two months or more, when the liquor will have turned to vinegar. Boil the vinegar, strain it, and bottle for use. Keep it in a cool place. The vinegar plant is a fungus which grows in the liquor in warmth and darkness. If left without the liquor, it will die. A plant may be purchased often at a trifling cost; market people are the most likely to sell it. It will form in vinegar casks, and when it is used, a young plant will grow on the old one, which can be applied to the same purpose. In country places it is often spoken of as the “mother.” Vinegar made with a Vinegar Plant (another way).— By means of the vinegar plant an insipid sort of vinegar is some- times manufactured. The vinegar plant itself may be thus produced:—Take a solution of quarter of a pound of sugar and half a pound of treacle in three quarts of water, simmer it, then pour it into a jar, cover it up, and keep it in a warm place for six weeks. The liquid will become vinegar, and on the top will form a scum-like fungus, which is the vinegar plant. By adding a piece of this to a similar solution, the process of conversion into vinegar will now take place in much less time. During the pro- cess the plant thickens by the formation of a new layer on its under surface, and by peeling off this layer and using it in a fresh operation, the plant may be propagated indefinitely. The vinegar plant is a fungus somewhat resembling those known by the name of mould. “It forms a flocculent mass or web, which is tough and crust-like, or leathery. It is found on decaying bodies, and in fluids undergoing the acetous fermentation, which it greatly promotes, and which, indeed, it very readily occasions—a smali piece placed in sugar and water soon changing it into vinegar. Vinegar, Malt.—In Great Britain vinegar is usually made from malt. By mashing with hot water, one hundred gallons of wort are ex- tracted in less than two hours from one boll of malt. "When the liquor has fallen to the tem- perature of 75° Fahr., four gallons of the barm of beer are added. After thirty-six hours it is racked off into casks, placed upright, having a false cover, pierced with holes, fixed at about a foot from their bottom. On this a considerable quantity of rape, or the refuse from the makers VIN "(1094 } VIN of British wine, or otherwise a quantity of low- priced raisins, is laid, the liquor is turned into another barrel every twenty-four hours, in which time it has begun to grow warm. Sometimes the liquor is fully fermented without the rape, which is added towards the end to communicate flavour. Vinegar, Preserving of.—The methods of preserving vinegar are various. It is a fact generally known that vinegar, of whatever kind, will not keep long, but in the course of a few weeks, especially in the warm temperature of summer, grows turbid; its surface is then covered with a thick mucilaginous substance, during which time the acid disappears by de- grees, and at last is entirely lost; whence the vinegar must very often be thrown away. Now, in order to avoid this spoiling of the vinegar, five methods are known. The first is to prepare the vinegar very strong and sour at first, by using more sugar or other materials. It is well known that such vinegar will keep for several years; but as few people prepare their own vinegar, most persons contenting themselves with buying it at the shops, there are of course but few who can make use of this method. The second method is to concentrate the vine- gar by freezing; after which a hole is made in the crust of ice which covers it, through which the part that is not congealed is let out, and afterwards put into bottles. This manipulation answers well enough; but nearly one half being lost, because that which forms the crust of ice is nothing for the most part but water, good economists dislike it. The third method is to prevent the access of air by filling the bottles, and keeping them corked. Though vinegar is kept long by this method, it is not much employed, probably because it is troublesome to fill up the bottle with clear vinegar from another bottle every time you make use of part of its contents. The fourth method is to distil the vinegar, and thus leave behind the impurities. Distilled vinegar does not suffer the least change, though exposed to a warm air for years; but the expense of distilling is often thought too much. The following method of purifying and preserving vinegar is the easiest, and answers sufficiently. Put the vinegar into a well-tinned vessel, and make it boil for a minute over a strong fire, or the vinegar may be put into bottles, and then into a kettle of water upon the fire, and boiled; this will coagulate the glutinous and mucilaginous matter which all vinegar contains, and this may be separated by straining ; after which the clear liquor should be kept in well-corked bottles. Vinegar pre- pared in this way keeps long without spoiling, and should be so treated when intended for pickling vegetables. Vinegar Sauce for Venison.—Put half a pint of vinegar into a well-tinned and perfectly clean saucepan, together with four ounces of pounded loaf sugar; simmer the sauce gently till the sugar is dissolved, remove the scum as it rises, strain through 4 napkin, and serve in a tureen. Vinegar, Seasoned, for. Indian Pickle.—The quantity of vinegar required to . bottles. be seasoned must be regulated by that of the pickle to be made. ‘There should bo enough to cover the pickles entirely, with a little over to make up for evaporatioa. To prepare the vinegar, mix an ounce of powdered turmeric and three ounces of flour of mustard smoothly with a little cold vinegar. Stir in gradually additional vinegar to make up the quantity to six pints. Cut a root of horseradish into slices, put it, with two ounces of shallots and two ounces of bruised ginger, into a vessel; pour over them six pints of strong vinegar, and add half a pound of salt, together with an ounce of chillies, and two ounces of white pepper tied in muslin. Boil all. gently together for twenty minutes, and pour the preparation, while hot, on the pickle, having first poured: off the vine- gar in which they were infused. If it is wished that the pickle should quickly be made ready for use, the vinegar may be boiled again in ten days, and again poured hot over the pickles, which will be ready when cold. Vinegar, Seasoned, for Salads.—Take of shallots, tarragon, savory, and chives, three ounces each, and of balm and mint one ounce each; dry these ingredients very carefully, and bruise them. Put them ina wide-mouthed bottle, pour upon them a gallon of vinegar, and cork the bottle securely. Put it in a warm place, leave it for two or three weeks till the vinegar is strongly flavoured, pour off the liquor, and press the herbs very dry with a wooden spoon. Let the vinegar stand to settle for a few hours, filter it, and put it into small Cork closely, and store for use. Vinegar, Strengthened.—When vine- gar is not sufficiently strong, expose it in an open situation during frosty weather. When the surface is frozen, take the cake of ice from the top of the vinegar. If this is melted, it will be found to be water only. The vinegar, being freed from so much water, will be more acid than before, and may be frozen again and again, until it becomes of the desired strength. » Vinegar, Sugar.—Take a sufficient quan- tity of water, and to every three quarts put a pound of raw sugar. Boil for half an hour, skimming if necessary. Set the liquor in an earthen vessel to cool; when not more than lukewarm throw in a slice of bread with yeast strewed over it thickly on both sides. Ferment for two days, then pour the liquor into a barrel which has previously been well rinsed out with vinegar. Paste over the bung-hole a piece of brown paper, perforate this with uw fork, so as to leave little air-holes, and set the barrel in a dry warm place. Vinegar, Violet (a German recipe).— “Gather wood violets when they are most plentiful—in spring. Put the flowers, without their stems, into bottles, shaking them down till full. Then pour in as much wine vinegar as they will take; cork, and set them in the sun three or four weeks. Strain off the vinegar after this time. A spoonful or two of the violet vinegar in water, with or without sugar, is, in many cases, a remedy for nervous headache. It is good also for flavouring beverages and sweet dishes.” VIN “Vinegar, Wholesomeness of.—Vine-' gar in-small quantities is a grateful and: salu- tary stimulus to the stomach, correcting the. putreacency of animal food, and the flatulency: of vegetable. Its use, however, is improper: in valetudinary cases, especially for gouty persons. Pickles are merely vegetable receptacles for vinegar, but the vegetable being hardened by the acid renders it somewhat difficult of di- gestion, and therefore vinegar in the form of pickles is not much to be recommended. We wmay add on this subject the remarks of Dr. Paris in his work on “ Diet.’ ‘ Vinegar,” he says, “in small quantities, is a grateful and wholesome stimulant; it will often check the chemical fermentation of certain 'substances'in the stomach, and prevent vegetable matter in its raw state from inducing flatulence; but its uge requires caution, and in some morbid states of the system it is obviously improper. Fatty and gelatinous substances frequently appear to be rendered more digestible in the stomach’ by' the addition of vinegar, although ‘it is difficult to offer either a chemical or physiological ex- planation of the fact. The native’ vegetable acids may also be occasionally substituted; the addition of lemon-juice'to rich and gelatinous soups renders them less liable to disagree with’ the stomach; and the custom of eating apple- sauce with pork is undoubtedly indebted for its origin to the same cause.” i . Vinegar, Wine, French Method of Making.—The followi i method of making vinegar. The wine de- stined. for vinegar is mixed in a large tun with a quantity of wine lees, and the whole being transferred into cloth.sacks placed within a lars e iron-bound vat, the liquid matter is forced fhrough the sacks by superincumbent pressure. What passes through is put into large casks set upright, having a small aperture in their top. In these it is exposed to the heat of the sun in summer, or to that of a stove in winter.. Fermentation supervenes in a few days. Ifthe heat should rise too high, it is lowered by cool air and the addition of fresh wine. In the skilful regulation of the fermentative. temperature chiefly consists the art of making good wine vinegar... In summer, the process is generally completed in a fortnight, in winter double the time is requisite. The vinegar, is then run off into barrels, which contain several chips of birchwood. In about a fortnight it is found to be clarified, and is then fit for the | market. It must be kept in close casks. Vinegars, ‘Flavoured.— Vinegar may ‘be flavoured with herbs and spices, and a good store of these’ vinegars will prove of great service in cookery. All that is necessary is to procure the flavouring ingredients—such' ‘as celery or cress seed, chillies or capsicums, tarra- gortleaves, shallots, &c.—to put them in bottles,. cover them with good cold boiled vinegar, and stopper them closely, In’a week or two’ the ‘vinegar will be sufficiently flavoured, and, all that will be then necessary is to strain it off. ‘and bottle in -small bottles for use. In nine cases’ out of ten the’ flavouring ingredients may havea second, and even a third, supply of vinegar poured upon them:' ‘Tarragon and ( 1095 y owing is the . French |, VOL chilli vinegars are particularly useful for salads ; while a few drops of garlic or- shallot’ vinegar’ added to a -pint of gravy will impart ‘a par-' ticularly fine flavour. . Herbs also, if boiled for a short time in' vinegar, will communicate their flavour to it, and the flavour ‘of some. fruits, when imparted to vinegar, is very delicious. The acid thus made, when mixed with water and slightly sweetened, ‘constitutes a refreshitie: summer beverage. ° 4 std Violet Tea,—This is a soothing beverag: for persons suffering from bronchitis and similar affections. Put a tea-spoonful of dried violets in a jar, and pour upon them half a pint of boiling water. “Let them infuse for five minutes, strain the:liquor, sweeten with, honey, and it will be fit for use. - Virginia Pudding.—Butter a plain quart: pudding-mould rather thickly, then stick dried cherries, fine raisins, or strips of ‘candied peel in regular rows on thé inside, place a slice of soaked bread-crumb over the fruit, and three- parts fill the inside with alternate layers of thiht . bread and ‘butter and currants and grated nut- meg. Pour in as much custard as the bread ' will absorb; let the pudding soak for an hoiir,’ and steam it over’ boiling water, or bake in _a moderate oven. Turn out before serving, ‘and send sweet sauce to table in a tureen. ‘Time to steam, one hour anda half, Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. - Volaille, Purée de.—Mince very finely the white, part of a cold fowl or turkey, then pound it in a mortar, put in two or three | spoonfuls of white: sauce, and pass it through a, | sieve, adding .a little salt and white, pepper, | and warm the whole; it may be served up with | the legs grilled. It should not be too thin, but, | ean be made the proper consistence by a greater or smaller quantity of white sauce or cream. | Garnish with fried bread or paste cut into shapes. It may also be served up in a casserole or wall. of;rice and mashed potatoes, or with | poached eggs. Vol-au-vent.—aA vol-au-vent presents one of the handsomest forms in which the remains of dishes can be served. It is generally filled’ | with a mince, or ragotit, or fricassee—or what- ever other name may be chosen—of dressed meat; and after the vol-au-vent case is made, there is abundant opportunity for the cook to display her skill, either in the richness and | delicacy, or. in the savoury nature of its contents. A, vol-au-vent can be made success- fully only with the lightest puff paste. Full directions are given for making this under Paste, Puff, or Feuilletage. It should’ be remembered that the puff paste of which a ‘vol-au-vent is made will be much better if it is prepared an hour.or two, before it is wanted, ‘and placed in a cool situation till required. If the puff paste is, not exceedingly light, the vol-au-vent will not rise properly, and so will have a very bad appearance. In rolling it, care ‘must be taken to keep it perfectly square and even at the ends, as unless this is done the pastry cannot rise evenly. The pastry for a vol-au- vent ought to have six turns, and five minutes should be allowed to elapse between each turn, VOL ( 1096 ) VOL After it has been turned five times, brush the. pastry over with lemon-juice, and when it is doubled for the last time, fold it in such a way that, when finished, it will be the exact size of the inside of the dish in which it is to be served, and a little more than an inch thick. Cut it evenly all round with a knife that has been made hot in water, so as not to drag the pastry. Place a stewpan lid, or any other shape of a suitable size, within an inch and a half of the outer edge of the pastry, and with a sharp knife make an incision a quarter of an inch deep all round the edge of the lid. Press the inner circle away from the outer one with the point of the knife to prevent them closing again; this inner circle, when baked, will form the cover of the vol-au-vent. Put the vol-au-vent in a well-heated oven; in half an hour or three-quarters of an hour, if it should appear baked through, take it out of the oven, lift up the cover with the point of a knife where it has been marked, and scoop out the soft crummy centre without at all injuring the walls of the case. It will be evident that if it should be injured in this way, the rich sauce of the ragoit with which it is filled will ooze through the sides and spoil its appearance. Put it in the oven a few minutes longer to dry it, fill with the savoury mince, put the cover on, and serve on a napkin. Careful attention should be paid to the condition of the oven in which a vol-au-vent is baked: if it is not well heated, the pastry cannot possibly rise ; if the heat is too fierce, the surface will be set before the heat has penetrated through the pastry, and this also will keep it from rising. "When it has risen a couple of inches, and before it acquires any colour, cover the vol-au-vent with paper to keep it from browning too quickly. If acci- dentally the walls of the vol-au-vent should receive any injury, a little piece of pastry should be stuck upon the thin place with white of egg. The appearance of the vol-au-vent will be im- proved if it is brushed over with egg after it has risen in the oven. Time to bake the vol- au-vent, half an hour to three-quarters of an hour. Sufficient, three-quarters of a pound to one pound of puff paste for a good-sized vol- au-vent. VOL-AU-VENT. Vol-au-vent (& Ja Financiére).—Prepare a vol-au-vent case according to the instructions already given, bake it, lift off the cover, and dry the inside. Fill it with a financiére ragodt, ornament the top with crayfish, cockscombs, and mushrooms; or, if preferred, simply place the cover on the top of the vol-au-vent, and serve. The ragoit may be prepared as fol- lows :—Put into a stewpan equal quantities of sweetbread, forcemeat balls, and mushrooms, all dressed, with a few sliced truffles and cocks- combs if liked. Cover with thick and rich brown sauce made of game, and add a glass- ful of sherry or madeira. - Let them simmer very gently till they are heated throughout, and the ragofit will be ready for the vol-au- vent. Time, three minutes to heat the ragoit. Vol-au-vent (8 la Normande).— Make a vol-au-vent case according to the instructions already given, bake it, lift off the cover, and have ready to fill it a Ragoiit 4 la Normande, Put on the lid, and serve the vol-au-vent on a dish covered with a napkin. The ragoiit may be prepared as follows :—Fillet a large sole, put it on a buttered dish, and sprinkle upon it a tea-spoonful of very finely-minced onions which have been previously parboiled. Pour upon it as much milk or light wine as will barely cover it, and bake till done enough. Divide it into neat slices of uniform size, and put these in a stewpan with an equal quantity of oysters which have been plumped in their liquor, mussels which have been shaken over the fire ina stewpan till their shells opened, mushrooms which have been stewed in butter, and pieces of the crumb of bread about the size of a crown piece which have been fried in butter until they were lightly browned. Take ag much velouté sauce as will cover the in- gredients, put it into a saucepan, and stir in the oyster liquor, the mussel broth, and the gravy from the sole. -Let it simmer till very thick. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a basin, mix a spoonful or two of the sauce with them, and add them to the rest. Simmer the sauce for a minute or two without allowing it to boil, and pour it over the fish. Let all heat very gently together for three or four minutes, and the ragoiit will be ready for the vol-au-vent. Vol-au-vent, Small.—To make small vol-au-vents, prepare the pastry, and make the vol-au-vents according to the ifistructions already given for making a large vol-au-vent. Roll the pastry out to the thickness of half an inch. Two pastry-cutters will be needed—the smaller one the size of half a crown, the larger one double the size. If these cutters are fluted, so much the better. Bake the vol-au-vents in a moderately-heated oven; when done enough, lift off the covers, and scoop out the insides as before; dry the pastry, and fill the cavity with any of the varieties of meat which can be pre- pared for the purpose. Put on the covers, and serve the vol-au-vents, hot or cold, on a neatly- folded napkin. Time to bake small vol-au-vents, ten to twelve minutes. Vol-au-vent with Cream.— Bake a large, or six or eight small vol-au-vents; take off the covers, scoop out the insides, dry the. cases, and let them become quite cold. Fill them with rich jam, or with fresh fruit stewed in a thick syrup, and place upon the top some nicely-flavoured whipped cream. Garnish the edges of the vol-au-vents with dots of bright- coloured fruit jelly. VOL ( 1097 ) WAF Vol-au-vents.—Recipes for the following vol-au-vents will be found under their respec- w tive headings :— CroaQuErrEs OystER Ece Pium Fruit SwEETBREAD LogpstEr VEAL. Vol-au-vents, Green Gooseberry.— Prepare some small vol-au-vents in the usual way, and bake them. Take off the covers, scoop out the inside, and let them get cold. When wanted, fill them with a compdte of green gooseberries. Place the covers upon them, or, if preferred, put a little whipped cream, or Devonshire cream, in their places; serve on aneatly-folded napkin. The gooseberries may be prepared as follows :—Top and tail a pint of green gooseberries, and put them into boiling water for two minutes, then throw them into cold water which has been mixed with a table- spoonful of vinegar (this is to restore their colour). Boil six ounces of refined sugar in half u pint of water for ten minutes, put in the gooseberries, and let them simmer gently till tender but unbroken. Strain them, and if necessary put the syrup back again, and let it boil a few minutes till it is very thick, then pour it over the fruit. When cold it will be ready for the vol-au-vents. Time, ten to fifteen minutes to simmer the gooseberries. Vol-au-vents, Orange.—Prepare the vol-au-vents, and bake them in the usual way. Let them get cold. Pare the rind very thinly from three or four large oranges, put it into a saucepan with four ounces of loaf sugar and half a pint of water, and boil to a clear syrup. Strip the white skin from the oranges, remove the pips, and divide them into quarters. Thicken the syrup by pouring it when boiling upon a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot which has been mixed smoothly with a little cold water, and stirring it well. Add a little brandy and two or three drops of cochineal, and pour the syrup upon the fruit. When cold it will be ready for the vol-au-vents. Vol-au-vents, Sweet (& la Parisienne). —Make some smalf vol-au-vents, and have some good jam or stewed fruit ready to fill them. As soon as they are taken from the oven, sprinkle finely-powdered white sugar thickly on the edges, and hold a red-hot shovel over them till the sugar melts. Fill them with the fruit, pile whipped cream on the top, and serve. Time, ten or twelve minutes to bake the vol- au-vents. _ Vol-au-vents, To Fill.—A vol-au-vent is simply a case in which are served delicate and savoury ragotits of dressed meat, fish, &c. When preparing these, it is very important that the cook should make the sauces in which the meat is heated very thick. Unless this is lone, the liquor will be in danger of oozing through the crust, and this will entirely spoil the appearance of the vol-au-vent. Also the meat should be simmered only in the sauce; if it is allowed to boil, it will in all probability be hard and unpalatable. ¢ Wafer Biscuits.—Mix an ounce and a half of finely-sifted sugar with half a pound of flour. Rub in a small slice of fresh butter, and work the mixture into a stiff paste with the well-whisked white of a fresh egg and a little cream. Cover the paste, and leave it in a cool place for a short time. Divide it into small portions of equal size, and roll these into rounds as thin as possible, and about two and a half inches in diameter. Bake on buttered tins in a brisk oven. Time to bake the wafers, three or , four minutes. Wafer Biscuits (another way).— Mix thoroughly two ounces of sifted sugar with two ounces of fine flour. Add a drop of oil of cinnamon and a drop of oil of cloves, or if preferred a little grated nutmeg, and the well- whisked whites of two eggs. Make the mixture into a thin liquid paste. Butter some tinned baking-sheets; put on these portions of the batter four inches apart, and the size of a walnut, and with the finger spread them into rounds the size of the top of a tumbler, and almost touching each other. Bake in a brisk oven till they are lightly browned. Take them up when soft, and either roll them upon « round piece of wood or turn them to the shape of buns. Serve with custards or ices. Time to bake the wafers, three or four minutes. Wafer Biscuits, Almond.— Blanch, peel, and pound till smooth four ounces of Jordan almonds. Mix with them two ounces of powdered and sifted sugar, and moisten the mixture with the white of anegg. Heat an untinned baking-sheet, and rub it over with pure white wax. Let it get cold, then place on it, four inches apart from each other, portions of the paste the size of a penny-piece. Flatten these with a knife till they almost touch one another and are about the size of the top of a tumbler. Blanch and chop two ounces of almonds, and mix them with an ounce of sugar and a tea-spoonful of white of egg. Sprinkle them on the surface of the wafers, and bake in a gentle oven. When sufficiently baked, roll them whilst warm round a piece of wood, and leave them till crisp. Wafer Cakes.—Wafer cakes are excel- lent tea-cakes, and they do not take long to make, although a little practice is required to make them successfully. Beat three eggs quite light; wash rather less than a quarter of a pound of butter, so as to extract the salt from it, and mix with it a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar; add to the mixture the beaten eggs, a tea-spoonful of rose-water, and enough sifted flour to make a thin batter. Stir with a wooden spoon till the batter is perfectly smooth and so light that it will break when it falls against the side of the vessel. Heat the wafer- irons; not too hot, however, or the batter will Durn. Grease the iron with butter tied in a linen rag, the rag being twice doubled ; fill the iron with the batter, and then close it. Place it on the fire so that both sides will heat at once; if this cannot be done, turn the iron frequently. WAF If properly managed the batter will be cooked in about two minutes.” Wafer Paper, to put under Cakes (a German re¢ipe).—Take fine flour, to which put as much water as will make it beat smooth. Then by degrees add as much. more as. will bring if to a thin paste.. Rub a baking-plate with wax, beat it, wipe off the wax, hold the tin again over the fire, then pour a spoonful of the flour and water, or as much as will cover the bottom thinly, and bake it merely so that it becomes dry and white. Wafer Puddings.—Beat an ounce of butter to cream, and mix with it a table-spoon- ful of flour, a table-spoonful of cream, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. A little flavouring may be added if liked. Butter some patty-pans, half fill them with the batter, and cover with the whites of the eggs whisked to a firm froth: Sprinkle a little powdered white sugar upon them, and bake in a well-heated oven. When done enough, turn them upon a hot napkin, and send jam or sweet sauce to table with them. ‘ime to bake the puddings, a quarter of ‘an hour. Probable cost, 6d. Suf- ficient for four or five puddings. Wafers.—There are many ways of making wafers, but however made, they must be baked inthe same way, that is, in irons made for the purpose, and called wafer-irons. These irons should be used as follows :—Heat an iron on both sides over a moderate fire. Rub it inside with a little butter, put a tea-spoonful of the wafer batter into it, close the iron upon this almost immediately, and put it on the fire. When cooked upon one side, turn it upon the other. Cut away the superfluous paste round the edges, and roll the wafer on a stick while it is stillwarm. Put in another piece of batter, and repeat until all the batter is used. (Keep the wafers in a tin box in a dry place till wanted. They are generally served with the sweets. Wafers, Almond.—Mix thoroughly equal quantities of dry flour and sifted sugar. With every four table-spoonfuls of this mixture that it is intended to use work in two well-beaten eggs, two ounces and a half of chopped almonds or pistachio nuts, a small quantity of fresh yeast, and as much cream as will make a thick batter. Let the’ mixture settle, and bake th wafers in the usual way. Wafers, Dutch.—Put seven ounces of flour upon a pasteboard, and work it to a smooth stiff paste with three ounces of butter, the grated rind of an orange, five ounces of powdered sugar, and one egg. Divide the paste into pieces the size of a pigeon’s egg, form these to an oval shape, and bake in an oval wafer-iron. Wafers, Flemish.—Rub a large lump of sugar upon the rimd of half a fresh lemon till the yellow part is taken off, then crush it to powder. Put four ounces of flour into a bowl, mix with it a pinch of salt and the flavoured sugar, and add gradually a quarter of a pint of lukewarm milk and a table-spoonful of fresh yeast. Work the mixture to a soft dough, ( 1098 ) WAF cover it, and put it on the hearth to rise. Work in a quarter of.a pound of fresh butter beaten to cream, the yolks of three eggs well- beaten, and, lastly, the well-whisked whites of the eggs. Let the dough rise till it is double its original size. Bake the wafers in the usual way. Put them while hot upon a dish, and sift powdered white sugar thickly over them. Time to cook the wafers, three or four minutes. Wafers, Fruit, for Dessert.—Take any kind of ripe well-flavoured fruit. Put it into an earthen jar, cover closely, and set it in a pan of boiling water. Keep the.water boiling quickly round it till the juice flows freely from the fruit. Strain it through a jelly-bag, and with each pint of filtered: juice mix a pound of powdered white sugar and the white of an egg. Beat the mixture till it forms a stiff paste. Spread it in a thin layer upon buttered, paper, and bake in a gentle oven till it is dry enough to leave the paper. Turn it upside down, and put it again in the oven until it is perfectly Stamp it in shapes, and place these between sheets of white paper in layers in a tin box. Wafers, Geneva.—Beat three ounces of fresh butter to cream. Add two heaped table- spoonfuls of powdered sugar, two well-whisked eggs, and, very gradually, three ounces of dried flour. Beat the battér till itis smooth, - Butter a ‘baking-sheet, and drop on it' at regular in- tervals a tea-spoonful of the mixture. Bake the wafers in a gentle oven. "When they are set, but still quite soft, take them out, and turn them to the shape of horns. Put a little piece of bread into the wide end to keep them in shape, and let them remain in the oven till crisp. "When they are cold, take out the bread, and just before serving the wafers fill them with jam and whipped cream. Sufficient for a moderate-sized dish. Probable cost, 1s. ‘Time, altogether, about twenty minutes. Wafers, Ice.—Mix together half a pound of flour and half a pound of powdered sugar. Add three well-beaten eggs and a few drops of essence of vanilla, and beat the mixture till it is quite smooth. Melt half a pound of fresh butter, work this into the batter, and beat it again. Add very gradually a quart of milk. Let the batter remain untouched for an hour, and bake the wafers in the usual way. Wafers with Jelly.—Beat a quarter of a pound of fresh butter to cream. Add half a pound of powdered sugar, two eggs well beaten, a quarter of a pint of milk, a table-spoonful of brandy, a table-spoonful of orange-flower water, half a nutmeg grated, half a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, « quarter of a tea- spoonful of saleratus dissolved in a little hot water, and as much flour as will make a very thick smooth batter. Beat the mixture well. Butter a large baking-sheet, and spread the batter upon it in a layer not more than an eighth of an inch thick. Bake in a moderately- heated oven till it is set. Cut it in halves; spread a little jelly upon one half, and lay the other half upon it. When cold, cut it into fingers with a sharp knife. Pile these in a glass dish, and serve. Time to bake the batter, War ( 1099 ) WAI, about a quarter Of an hour. Probable cost, _. exclusive of the jelly, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for a good-sized dish. ' Waffles.—Take a tea-cupful of fresh butter, put it into a large bowl, and beat it to cream, Add three cupfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, half a nutmeg grated, a few drops of essence of lemon, three well-beaten eggs, half a tea- spoonful of saleratus dissolved ina tea-spoonful of milk, and as much flour ag will make a thick batter. Beat the mixture thoroughly. Heat the waffle-iron, rub it over with butter, and put into it one or two large spoonfuls of the mix- ture. Be careful to leave room for rising; close it, and put it over hot coals. Let it re- main for six or eight minutes, then turn it over, and leave it a few minutes longer: if on opening it the cake is nicely browned, and will leave the iron easily, it is done enough. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. for this quantity. Waffles (another way).—Dissolve half an ounce of butter ina pint of milk; beat two eggs in a bowl, and add to them gradually the buttered milk and as much flour as will make a stiff batter. Stir in a wine-glassful of fresh yeast and a little salt. Let the batter rise till light. Heat the waffle-irons, and bake the waffles in the usual way. Butter them, and if liked serve with sugar and powdered cinnamon, Waffles (another way).—Take » quart’ of milk, five eggs, a pound and a quarter of flour, half a pound of butter, and a spoonful of yeast. When the waffles are baked, sift pounded sugar and powdered cassia over them. Waffles (a Danish recipe).— Take one pound of fresh butter, and beat it till it creams. Add the yolks of six eggs, a quarter of a pound of sugar, one pound of flour, a quart of warm milk, and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten to snow. Butter the waffle-iron each time before filling it, and heat it before using. When baked strew sifted sugar over the waffles. This quantity will make twenty-four wafiles. Waffies (a German recipe). — Mix one pound and a half of flour with the same quan- tity of clarified butter, add twelve eggs one by one, then a little grated nutmeg, a few grains of salt, two handfuls of pounded almonds with afew bitter ones among them, four or five spoonfuls of yeast, nearly a pint of milk, and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten to snow. Mix and beat well together, then leave the mixture for two hours before proceeding further. Have ready the waflle-iron, heat it in the fire, and rub it. over with butter; pour into it a ladleful of the batter, and bake of a fine yellow. The iron must be buttered each time before any batter is poured in. Strew pounded sugar and cinnamon over the waffles after they are done. ” Waffles (another German recipe). — Mix together three-quarters of a pound of flour,, seven eggs, a pint of milk, three good spoonfuls of yeast, a gill of brandy, and half a pound of butter’ beaten to cream. Beat the butter and ges first together, then add the flour, and, when smooth, the other ingredients; let this stand in a warm place for an hour to rise. Butter the waffle-iron before you pour in thé batter, and bake of a light yellow colour. Strew with pounded cinnamon and sugar before serving. ‘Waffles made with Yeast.—Beat three fresh eggs to a light froth; mix with them a pint of Iukewarm milk and a large table-spoon- ful of fresh yeast, and add half a nutmeg grated, a pinch of salt, an ounce of butter, and as much flour as will make a light batter. Put this in a warm place, and let it rise for two or three hours. Bake the cake in waffle-irons in the usual way (see Wafiles). Waffles made without Yeast or Soda.—Take a pint and a quarter of flour, and as much additional flour as will go into a wine-glass; mix with it half a tea-spoonful of salt. Dissolve two ounces of butter in a pint of hot milk, and let the milk cool. Beat the yolks of three eggs in a bowl, and add to them the milk and the flour alternately. Whisk the whites of the eggs separately to a firm froth, and stir them lightly into the batter. Bake the waffles immediately after the whites are put in, oH oa not beat the batter after the whites are added. Waffles, Rice.—Boil half a pint of rice till soft; put it into a bowl, and add very gradually three-quarters of a pound of flour, half a tea-spoonful of salt, a pint and a quarter of milk, and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Beat the mixture thoroughly. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add them to the batter, and beat it again. Take a small } quantity of this mixture in a cup, and pour it backwards and forwards froma good height for a few minutes; then bake immediately. Waffles, Rice (a German recipe).—Wash half a pound of rice in warm water, drain it, and boil in milk till it swells and becomes a thick mass. Take the rice off the fire then, and keep stirring it, adding by degrees one pound of flour, five eggs beaten up, two spoonfuls of yeast, half a pound of melted butter, a little salt, and a cupful of warm milk. Set it in a warm place to rise, and bake quickly in the usual way. Wales’, Prince of, Sauce for Salads and Broiled Fish.—Take a small handful of burnet, chervil, chives, and tarragon leaves, throw them into boiling water, and boil them for a few minutes; then put them into the corner of a napkin, and press the moisture thoroughly from them. Put the pulp into a mortar with two anchovies filleted, two hard- boiled yolks of eggs, a dessert- spoonful of capers, a dessert-spoonful of unmixed mustard, and the yolk of a rawegg. Pound these in-. gredients to a smooth paste, then add (first by drops, and afterwards by tea-spoontuls) a quarter of a pint of lucca oil, beating the sauce well between every addition. Add last of all and very gradually about two table- spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar; rub the sauce through a hair sieve to make it smooth, and it will be ready for serving. Time, about three- uarters of an hour to prepare the sauce. Probable cost, 1s, Sufficient for five or six persons. Wah ( 1100 ) “WAL Wall of Potatoes (to put round a dish in the centre of which a fricassee is to be served). —Boil as many potatoes as may be required, and mash them smoothly with butter. Put them round the dish upon which they are to be served, and with the bowls of two spoons mould them to the shape of a wall, two inches and a half wide at the base, two inches and a half high, and tapered towards the top. Make this wall quite smooth, brush over with beaten egg, and put it in the oven till it is lightly browned all over and quite hot. Pour the fricassee into the centre, and serve. Walnut.—The walnut is now cultivated generally throughout Europe. ‘On the Con- tinent,” says Selby in his “ History of Forest Trees,” “the fruit is in great demand, and indeed becomes in many parts almost one of the necessaries of life. It constitutes a con- siderable portion of the food of the inhabitants of certain districts, and also affords an oil little inferior when first drawn to that of the olive, for which in many parts of France it is the substitute in all culinary matters. The worst feature about the oil is that it soon turns rancid. WALNUTS. The refuse matter, after the oil is extracted, is eaten in Switzerland by poor people, under the name of pain amer. The nuts are used in various ways and at various stages of their growth. When young and green they make an excellent and well-known pickle, as well as a savoury ketchup, and a liqueur is also made from them in this state. Before they are fully ripe, and whilst the kernel is yet soft, walnuts are eaten in France en cerneauz—a way of pre- paring them with a seasoning of salt, pepper, vinegar, and shallots. About the end of Sep- tember or the beginning of October they are fully ripe, and are then eaten in great quan- tities, being both wholesome and easy of di- gestion, so long as they remain fresh and part freely from the skin which envelops the kernel.” Walnut Jam.—Take fifty walnuts in which the shell has not begun to form, prick them all over, and boil in water till they are quite soft. Strain the water off, put a clove in each, and strew over them two ounces of bruised ginger. Make a syrup of half a pint of water to two and a half pounds of coarse brown sugar, stirring on the fire till all is melted; then put in the walnuts, and boil for twenty minutes, stirring to prevent them burn- ing. This jam forms an excellent laxative, and may be elevated to the position of a pleasant domestic medicine. Walnut Salad.—Gather the young wal- nuts when the nut is just formed, and when they can be pierced easily with a pin. Pare them down to the kernels, put them into a salad- bowl, pour a little good salad sauce over them, toss them lightly in it, and serve immediately. This salad, though very agreeable, can only. be had in places where walnuts grow abun- dantly. Walnut Vinegar.—The vinegar which covers pickled walnuts is useful for flavouring the gravy used for hashes of cold meat. It.is also excellent when used as a pickle. ; Walnuts, Pickled.—Scald the walnuts, which must be used for pickling before they have a hard shell. This scalding will enable you easily to rub off the skin. Put them into a brine of salt and water strong enough to float an egg. Let them stand three days, then shift them into fresh brine, and let them soak three days longer. Now shift them once more into fresh brine, and let them soak four days. They are then fit for the jar. Have ready prepared equal parts of black pepper, Jamaica pepper, allspice, and ginger; a quarter of a pint of cloves, the same quantity of mace, and a pint and a half of white mustard-seed. Beat these ingredients together in a mortar, but do not pound them fine. Put the walnuts into the jar by layers, and over each layer strew some of the mixed seasoning. Then have ready some vinegar boiled with sliced horseradish and ginger, and cover the walnuts with it. When quite cold, cork and bladder the jar. This pickle is much impmpved by the addition of a little garlic and tarragon boiled with the vinegar. Walnuts, Pickled (to be made from the beginning to the middle of July).—Be very particular to gather the green walnuts when they are in a proper state for pickling—neither too soon nor too late. If they are too young, they will dissolve in the pickle; if too old, they will resist the action of the vinegar. They ought to be taken before the shells have begun to form; and the test of their fitness is that a large pin can, without difficulty, be pushed through them in every direction. If once the shell can be felt they are no longer fit for pickling. "Wipe the walnuts separately with a coarse cloth, put them into an earthen pan, and pour upon them a strong brine that will float a fresh egg. This brine may be made by boiling six ounces of salt with each quart of water. It should be skimmed carefully, and allowed to get cold before being put to the walnuts. Lay a thin board upon the walnuts to keep them under the brine. Turn them about with a wooden spoon every day, and let them remain, WAL (1101 ) WAS for six days; then drain them, and pour fresh brine upon them. Leave them from three to six days longer, drain in a colander, and put them in the sun in a single layer, on a large dish covered with coarse sackcloth. They will turn black in a few hours. Turn them over once or twice, handling them gently. Boil as much vinegar as will entirely cover the walnuts, with spices, in the proportion of two ounces of whole ginger bruised, two ounces of black pepper, four plades of mace, two ounces of mustard seed, eight cloves stuck into four’ shallots or small onions, and a tea-spoonful of salt, to half a gallon of vinegar. A dessert-spoonful of scraped horseradish and one or two capsicums are some- times added, but they destroy the flavour of the pickle. Boil the vinegar for ten minutes, put the walnuts into unglazed jars or wide-mouthed bottles, and when the vinegar is cool pour it upon them, and divide the spices equally amongst the bottles. When cold, tie them over with moistened bladder or with strong brown paper. As the walnuts soak up the vinegar, boil a little additional vinegar without spices, and pour it cold upon them. They must be kept entirely covered with the vinegar. They will be ready for use in three months, but will improve with keeping. If wanted for speedy use, pierce each one throughout both ways with a needle, leave them in the brine fully twelve days, and pour the vinegar upon them boiling hot. Time, about a fortnight to make the pickle. Probable cost, walnuts, 1s. 6d. to 2s. per 100. Walnuts (to freshen old nuts for dessert). —Put the nuts into an earthen pan, and pour over them as much cold water slightly salted as will cover them. Leave them until the next day, and rub them dry before using them. Walnuts, To Preserve.—Fill an earthen pot with them, and cover them with clay an inch thick. At Christmas-time they will be found as fresh as when first gathered. Another way is to put the walnuts into a common earthen- ware jar with an earthenware lid, and bury the jar in the earth about a foot deep in a place not too wet or too dry. A third way is as follows :—Gather the walnuts on a dry day, and directly the walnuts are taken out of the rind, put them into large flower-pots holding two pecks (any pans, however, will do as well), and when nearly full cover the pots two inches thick with sawdust. Place the pots on the floor in a wine-cellar. Washington Cake.—Put three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter into a bowl, and beat it tocream. Add gradually a pound of sugar, four well-beaten eggs, a tea-cupful of milk, half a nutmeg grated, half a tea-spoonful of powdered cinnamon, three table-spoonfuls of brandy, and a pound and three-quarters of flour; flour a pound of dried currants, and stir them in also: they may be omitted. Beat the mixture briskly for a quarter of an hour. Dissolve a tea-spoonful of saleratus in « little hot water, and stir it into the mixture. Line the sides and bottom of the pan with buttered paper, pour in the cake, and bake in a moderate oven, When a skewer which has been thrust into it comes out clear and dry it is done enough. Washington Cakes, Breakfast.—Rub two ounces of butter into a pound and a half of flour ; adda pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar, three well-beaten eggs, and a pint of milk. Beat the mixture thoroughly. Put it into buttered pans an inch deep, and bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. Time to bake the cakes, about half an hour. Probable cost, 1s. for this quantity. Wasps’ Nest Cakes.—Beat up six ounces of fresh butter, one egg, and three yolks. Add two spoonfuls of yeast, three spoonfuls of milk, and half a pound of flour. Make the mixture into a paste, roll it out thin, cut it into strips twelve fingers long, and three broad. Strew thickly with currants, chopped almonds, sugar, and cinnamon; roll the strips up, butter a tin, and bake slowly. Strew with sugar, and serve. Wassail Bowl.—The wassail bowl used in ancient days to be served specially on Christ- mas Eve. It was brought into the banqueting hall with songs and carols, and crowned with garlands. To make it, grate half a nutmeg, and put it into a saucepan with one clove, a quarter of an ounce of grated ginger, half a small blade of mace, an inch of stick cinnamon, and two or three coriander and cardamom- seeds. Pour upon these ingredients a tea- cupful of cold water, and let them boil. Then add two bottles of white wine, not sweet, and three-quarters of a pound of refined sugar. Pour the mixture into a large saucepan, and set it on the fire. Break the yolks of six and the whites of three eggs into the wassail bowl. ‘When the wine is warm, mix a tea-cupful of it in a bowl with the eggs; when it is a little warmer, add another tea-cupful, and repeat until five tea-cupfuls have been used. Let the wine boil, and pour it upon the eggs, stirring briskly all the time to froth it. Core, but do not pare, six apples; fill the cavity with sugar, roast them, and throw them into the bowl. Serve very hot. Though sherry or madeira ought properly to be used, good raisin wine will make an excellent wassail, especially if 4 tumblerful of brandy be added to it. Wassail Bowl (another way).—Mix half an ounce of grated ginger, half a grated nutmeg, and a pinch of powdered cinnamon with half a pound of Demerara sugar. Put it into a sauce- pan with a pint of ale, and let it boil; then stir in two additional pints of ale, half a bottle of sherry, madeira, or raisin wine, and » large lump of sugar which has been rubbed upon a fresh lemon till the yellow part is taken off. Make the wine very hot, but do not allow it to boil; ‘put it into the bowl. Throw into it half a dozen apples roasted as in the last recipe, and half a small lemon cut into slices and freed entirely from the white pith. Serve very hot. Wassail Bowl (another way).—The fol- lowing is an old recipe for making the wassail bowl:—Simmer a small quantity of the follow- ing spices in a tea-cupful of water, viz., carda- moms, cloves, nutmeg, mace, ginger, cinnamon, and coriander. When done, put the spice to WAS (1102 ) WAT two, four, or six bottles of port, sherry, or madeira, with a pound and a half of fine loaf sugar pounded to four bottles, and set all on the fire ina clean bright saucepan; meanwhile, have the yolks of twelve and the whites of six eggs well whisked up in it. ‘Then, when the spiced and sugared wine is a little warm, take out one’ tea-cupful, and so on for three or four cups; after which, when it boils, add the whole of the remainder, pouring it in gradually, and stir- ring it briskly all the time so as to frothit. The moment a fine froth is obtained, toss in twelve’ fine soft roasted apples, and send it up hot. Spices for each bottle of wine: Ten grains of mace, forty-six grains of cloves, thirty-seven. grains of cardamoms, twenty-eight grains of cinnamon, twelve grains of nutmeg, forty- eight grains of ginger, and forty-nine grains of coriander-seeds. | ns Wassail Bowl (another way).—Put into. a bowl half a pound of Lisbon sugar, pour on it a pint of warm beer, grate a nutmeg and some ginger into it, add four glassfuls of sherry and five additional pints of beer; stir well, and sweeten to taste. Let the preparation stand covered up for two or three hours, then put into it three or four slices of bread cut thin and toasted brown. Sometimes a couple or three slices of lemon and a few lumps of loaf sugar eee into the peeling of a lemon are ‘intro- uced. : . Wassail Custard.—A wassail custard is really a tipsy cake under another mame. Cover the bottom of a punch bowl or a deep glass dish with a mixture of macaroons,. ratafias, and sponge biscuits, all crumbled. with sherry or raisin wine, and add a glassful of brandy and the strained juice of a lemon. Let the biscuits stand in a cool place for an hour, till they have absorbed the wine. Cover them with some rich, highly-seasoned custard, sprinkle grated nutmeg and powdered sugar lightly upon the surface, and ornament with blanched and sliced almonds. Water as a, Beverage.—No water what- ever is absolutely pure; the freer, however, from extraneous matter the better, except that it should not be deprived of the common air, of which it usually contains a portion; con- sequently, newly-distilled water is not desirable, nor water that is just produced from thawed ice or snow—such water should be exposed for'a day or two to the atmosphere, that it may absorb air, which appears to be essential to it as an agreeable beverage. Spring water is the most agreeable, from its general purity and coolness; but all spring water is not fit for drink, as it often contains various salts. The water of rivers is in general good, par- ticularly when filtered, so also is rain-water ; stagnant is the worst. It is necessary to boil water only when it contains salts which require to be precipitated. ‘Water,’ says Dr. Paris, “is unquestionably the natural beve- rage of man; but any objection against the use ef other beverages founded on their artificial origin I should at once repel by an argument which might be also used in defence of cookery. We are to consider man ag he is, not as he _Moisten |. ‘used in medicine. might have been had he never forsaken the rude paths of nature. I am willing to confess that the more simply life is supported, and the less stimulus we use, the better, and that he is happy who considers water the best drink and salt the best sauce.” Water Biscuits.—Rub an ounce of butter into one pound of best flour. Adda pinch of salt, and ‘stir as much cold water into the mix- ture as will make a stiff, smooth paste. Roll this out till very thin, cut it into small biscuits, and bake upon buttered tins in a quick oven. _ Water Cakes.—Sift three-quarters of' a pound ‘of pounded and sifted sugar with one pound of fine flour. Add a pinch of salt anda tablespoonful of caraway fees, Mix well with the white of an egg beaten up with a little cold water, and roll the paste thin. Stamp into small rounds with a cutter, prick holes in them with a fork, and bake upon tins in a good oven. Water, Cherry.—Take a dozen morella | cherries, crush the fruit, and break the kernels; put them into a large tumbler, and pour over them a wine-glassful of capillaire, Half fill the tumbler with shaved ice, add a wine-glassful of cold water, and serve with sponge biscuits. Watercress possesses valuable medicinal properties of a stimulating nature, and is said to be particularly useful in strengthening the nerves. The expressed juice, which contains the peculiar pungency and taste of the herb, is External impurities in watercress may be removed by washing, but WATERCRESSES, not the impurities which are absorbed within. If the full virtues of this herb are to be ex- perienced, it should be eaten frequently and freely. It is mostly used, with bread and salt, as an accompaniment to cheese. It is also used to garnish dishes; it is excellent served as @ salad; and it is good boiled as spinach. Water- cresses are good from autumn till early summer, unless when cut off by frost. Bronze-leaved specimens are the most, highly esteemed. : Watercress, Pigeons Served with (see Pigeons Served with Watercress):; .- .. WAT ( 1103 ) WAT Watercress Salad.—Gather the water- créss when young, cleanse it thoroughly in salt and water, arid serve as fresh as possible. Place it ina bowl, either alone or mixed with other salad plants, and toss it lightly in a simple salad sauce. When served at breakfast, water- cress ‘is best sent to table as it is, fresh and crisp. . Watercresses, Wholesomeness of. isWatercress acts as a gentle stimulant and diuretic ; for these purposes the expressed juice, which contains'the peculiar taste and pungency of the herb, may be taken in doses of an ounce or two, and continued for a considerable time. It should be at the same time eaten at break- fast, also at dinner, and for supper, to expe- rience benefit from the virtues of this herb. Haller says, “ We have seen patients in’ dée declines cured by almost entirely living on this plant.” og Water Gruel.—Ascertain whether it is desired that the gruel should be thick or'thin. Tf it is preferred thick, mix two table-spoonfuls of oatmeal smoothly with a little cold water ; if it is preferred thin, one table-spoonful of oatmeal will be sufficient. Boil a pint of water in 4 saucepan, stir it gradually into the oatmeal in the basin, return the mixture to the sauce- pan, and boilit-+till smooth. Stir it wellto keep it from burning, skim it, strain through a sieve, sweeten, season, or flavour it, and it will be ready for use. The gruel may be used after it has boiled five minutes. It will be better if boiled a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, one halfpenny. Sufficient for one person. Water.Gruel, Relishes for.—Gruel may be sweetened and flavoured with nutmeg, ginger, or grated lemon, ale, wine, or spirit; or it may be seasoned with salt and pepper, and flavoured with spices, herbs, mushroom powder, celery-seed, shallots, or onions. When sweetened with treacle, and taken just before getting into bed, it is one of the best suppers that can be partaken of by any one who is suffer- ing from a cold in the head or on the chest. It is most usually served with a small piece of butter dissolved in it, and either sweetened with sugar or seasoned with salt. Water Ices.—Water ices are made of the juices of ripe fruits mixed with syrup and frozen; and it must be remembered that if the juices are sweetened excessively they will not freeze. It is, therefore, necessary to test them with an instrument called a saccharometer. To do this, put the mixture prepared for freezing in a tumbler, place the saccharometer gently in it: if it is mixed correotly for freezing - with ‘powder it will stick to the highest red mark; for freezing with ice and salt to the lowest red mark. To make it sink, add water to the mixture; to make it rise, add syrup. These remarks apply also to ice creams, ice puddings, and all drinks which are to be frozen. For water ices clarified sugar should '» ‘be'used; and this may be made by boiling for ten minutes, and skimming thoroughly, a quart of water with three pounds of sugar and half the white of an egg well'whisked. Having prepared the mixture and also ascertained its strength, put it into.an ice-pot. . Place it inthe ice-pail, and surround it with ice which has been broken almost to powder and mixed, with salt and a little saltpetre. Work the freezer, rapidly for ten minutes; then remove the ice from the sides of the freezer with the ice-spattle, and work it again till it is stiff and smooth. Put it into the mould, and leave it. in ice mixed, with salt and saltpetre till it is to be served. To turn it out, wipe it with a cloth, dip it in cold water fora minute, and wipe it dry; lift off the ends of the mould, and with the fingers push the ice upon its dish. Recipes for the following water ices will be found under their respective headings :— RasPBERRY " ORANGE Currry PINE-APPLE GincER PomMEGRANATE GRAPE: Rum ‘ Lewon | STRAWBERRY MeELoNn Water in Food.— The action of water in our food,” says a medical writer, “is very important. There would be’ no carrying of food into the system but for the agency. of water. It dissolves everything that we take, and nothing that we take as food.can become nutriment that is not dissolved in water. It would not do to test that by taking things and putting them into water and seeing whether they dissolve, and rejecting them as food ac- cording to that circumstance; because food un- dergoes a considerable change in the stomach. It undergoes a change to begin with in our mouth. One of the great objects of that change is to render things’ soluble which had been before insoluble in water. Starch, which we cannot ‘dissolve in water out of the stomach, is dissolved in water directly it gets into the mouth, for the starch is changed by the saliva into sugar, and that which would lie unchanged. in water for months is so changed by the saliva of the mouth and the gastric juice of the stomach that it is speedily dissolved. Thus, when we are taking considerable quantities of dry food, it becomes absolutely necessary that we should add a certain quantity of water, so that this dry food should become dissolved. Such things as oats, barley, wheat, rice, maize, and other articles of diet containing little water, must have water added, in order that their starch, fat, and gluten may be dissolved, and enter into the system.” Water-Melon Rind, To Preserve.— Pare off the outer skin, cut the rind into shapes, green them by simmering with vine-leaves.and a little alum, and allow a pound and a quarter of sugar to each pourid. Make the syrup, clarify it with the white of an egg, and simmer the melon-rind till done through and trans- parent. Boil down the syrup afterwards, and pour it over the preserves. . Water, Orange (for flavouring).—Tuke the thin rind of oranges, without any of the white part; bruise it in a mortar, and pour as much boiling water upon it as will barely cover it.. Cover closely. When cold, strain the liquor, and bottle for yse. ae , WAT ( 1104 ) WEA Water, Purification of.—Pure water is incapable of putrefaction, but ordinarily water contains a small quantity of organic matter in solution which quickly undergoes decomposition even in closed vessels. This is particularly the case when the water is kept in wooden casks, or in open cisterns, into which leaves and insects are driven by the wind. As a bever- age, putrescent water is highly unwholesome. Among the various methods that are adopted for purifying foul water, are the following :—1. Filtration through or agitation with powdered freshly-burnt charcoal, either animal or vege- table, but preferably the latter. This removes both mechanically suspended matter, and part of the calcareous and gaseous impurities held in solution. 2. Free exposure to the action of the air, by which the organic matters become oxidised and insoluble, and speedily subside. This may be effected easily by agitating the water in contact with fresh air, or by forcing air through it by means of bellows. 3. Adda little sulphuric acid; fifteen to twenty drops are usually sufficient for a gallon. This addi- tion may be advantageously made to water intended for filtration through charcoal, by which plan at least two thirds of the latter may be saved (Lowitz). 4, An ounce of powdered alum (dissolved) well agitated with a hogshead or more of foul water, will purify it in the course of a few hours, when the clear portion can be decanted. When the water is very putrid, about half a drachm (or even one drachm) per gallon may be employed. 5. A solution of ferric sulphate acts in the same way as alum; a few drops are enough for a gallon. 6. Sea-water may be rendered fit for use as a beverage by distillation. The waste heat of the cook's galley is amply sufficient for this purpose. There are several patent contrivances tor the distillation of water on ship-board. Water, Purity of.—The purity of water may be known by the following marks or properties of pure water:—l. Pure water is lighter than water that is not pure. 2. Pure water is more fluid than water that is not pure. 3. It has no colour, smell, or taste. 4. It wets ~ more easily than the waters containing metallic and earthy salts, called hard waters, and feels softer when touched. 5. Soap, or a solution of soap in alcohol, mixes easily and perfectly with it. 6. It is not rendered turbid by adding to it a solution of gold in aqua regia, or a solution of silver or of mercury in nitric acid, or a solution of acetate of lead in water. Water Souchet.—Take some very small flounders or dabs; clean them thoroughly, and boil them in water with a little salt till tender. Take them up carefully with « slice, one by one, keeping the white side uppermost. Put them into a vegetable-dish nearly full of boil- ing water, and throw into this two or three sprigs of clean double parsley. Serve very quickly. Hand round with the fish thin slices of brown bread and butter. Water souchet is made also of eels, soles, and plaice. The fish ought to be very small; but if they cannot be procured, and larger ones have to be used, they should be cut into modera‘a-sized pieces, rejecting the heads and tails. Time, a few minutes to boil the fish. Probable cost, 6d. for a moderate-sized dish. Sufficient for three or four persons. Water Souchet (another way).—Take « quart of water, a few perch or flounders, some parsley and parsley-roots. Stew these in a suit- able pan, and when soft pulp them through a sieve. Into the liquor put the remainder of the fish with more parsley and parsley-roots and some salt. Boil till the fish is done enough, and then send it to table in the surrounding water, together with the roots. A few of the fish stewed down strengthens the water in which the fish is afterwards served. Water, Toast and.—By impregnating water with the soluble parts of toasted bread, it will frequently agree with those stomachs which rebel against the use of the pure fluid. It is thus rendered slightly nutritive, holding a cer- tain portion of gum and starch in solution. Sir A. Carlisle recommends that it should be prepared with hard biscuit reduced by fire toa coffee-colour. “ This drink,” he says, “ being free from yeast, is a most agreeable beverage.” Much depends upon the water being at the boiling temperature, and it ought to be drunk as soon as it has cooled sufficiently, for by keeping it acquires an unpleasant flavour. Infusions of other kinds of bread, in particular of toasted oat-cakes, also dried or toasted oatmeal, have been recommended ; but the taste of such in- fusions would not be palatable to any one who has not been accustomed to eat oat-bread. Waters.—Recipes for the following waters will be found under their respective headings :— APPLE PINE-APPLE Appiz, Icep PoMEGRANATE ARROWROOT Rice BarLey Sopa Currant Summer BreveraGes GoosEBERRY Toast AND WATER Lemon VINEGAR AND WATER MarsuMaLlow (see SuMMER Bzvez- MuLprrry RAGES) | Waters, Iced Fruit.—These are very agreeable beverages, in their season, for evening parties. Currants, cherries, strawberries, rasp- berries, or apples, may be used for making them. To make strawberry water, take a pottle of strawberries—let them be scarlet strawberries, if possible, on account of the beautiful colour they impart to the syrup—pick them carefully, and put them into three pints of very weak syrup; bruise the strawberries in it, and boil them up; strain the water through a jelly-bag without any pressure, which would make the water thick. Ice the water, and keep it in a cool place till wanted. To make currant and cherry waters, a stronger syrup must be used than for strawberries, but the exact strength of the syrup must be determined by taste. Weaver Fish.—The great weaver, or the sea-cat, of Sussex, generally measures about twelve inches in length, swims near the bottom, and is remarkable for living a lorig time after it is taken out of the water. It is also armed with very sharp spines, which inflict. wounds WEB difficult to heal, unless one uses friction with oil. The fishermen consequently cut off these spines previous to bringing the fish to market. They are a sort of marine perch, and are ex- cellent. The lesser weaver is more common on our coasts than the great weaver, and, having the faculty of striking with its sharp spines, is often called the sting-fish. Webster Cakes.—Beat half a pound of fresh butter to cream. Add half a pound of powdered white sugar, three-quarters of a pound of sifted flour, a table-spoonful of orange- flower water, a table-spoonful of brandy, four ounces of picked and dried currants, and. five well-beaten eggs. Beat the mixture till it is very light. Line some shallow tins with buttered paper, pour in the mixture to the depth of half an inch, and bake the cake in a brisk oven. Before serving the cake cut it into squares or oblong pieces with a sharp knife. Time to bake the cake, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 1s. 8d. for this quantity. Wedding Cake, Excellent.—A wed- ding cake is an expensive article to purchase, and if it is not wanted very large, may be made at home without much difficulty, and:with a great saving of expense. It will improve with keeping—indeed, confectioners do not use their cakes until they have been made some months; and if a cake is cut into soon after it is made it WEDDING CAKE, will crumble. To make a wedding cake, first procure the following ingredients :—One pound and a half of flour, one pound and a half of butter, half ‘a pound of candied lemon, half ® pound of candied orange, half a pound of candied citron, one pound of dried cherries, one pound and a half of dried currants (if the cherries cannot easily be procured, they may be omitted, and two pounds and a half of currants used instead), eight ounces of almonds, eight eggs, the-rind of four oranges or of two lemons rubbed upon sugar, half an ounce of spices, consisting of powdered cinnamon, grated nut- meg, and powdered cloves in equal proportions, a tea-spoonful of salt, and a small tumblerful of brandy. If objected to, the brandy may be omitted, and another egg may be added. Wash, 7O—N.E. (1106 ) WEI pick, and dry the currants, cut the cherries into moderate-sized pieces, slice the candied peel into thin shreds, blanch and pound the almonds, or cut them into very small pieces, and crush the flavoured sugar to powder. Put the butter into a large bowl, and beat it to cream, either with a wooden spoon or with the hand. Add very gradually the sugar, flour, and eges, and when they are thoroughly mixed work in the rest of the ingredients. Put them ina little ata time, and beat the cake between every addition. It should be beaten fully three-quarters of an hour. Line a tin hoop with double folds of buttered paper, pour in the mixture, and place it on a metal baking-sheet with twelve folds of paper under it, and four or five on the top, to keep it from burning. Put it in a moderately- heated oven, and keep the oven at an even temperature until it is done enough. If the cake is to be iced, first prepare the almond part : —Take half a pound of almonds, throw them into boiling water, and skin them. Pound them in a mortar with a few drops of orange-flower water, one pound of fine white sugar, and as much white of egg as will make a soft stiff paste. Spread this over the top of the cake, and keep it from the edge as much as possible. Put it in a cool oven, or in a warm place, till it is dry and hard, To make the sugar icing, put two pounds of icing sugar into a bowl and work into it the whites of two, or if necessary three, or even four eggs. The whites must not be whisked, but thrown in asthey are. Work the mixture to a stiff shiny paste,and whilst working it add occasionally a drop of lemon-juice. Be careful to obtain icing sugar. Ifa drop of liquid blue is added it will make it look whiter. The icing will need to be worked vigorously to make a paste which will not run, and the fewer eggs taken the better. The cake ought not to be iced until a short time before it is wanted, as it may get dirty. The icing should be spread evenly over with hands wetted with cold water, then smoothed with an ivory knife, and it should be put in a gentle oven to harden. It may be ornamented with little knobs of icing placed round the edge; and on the day of the wedding a wreath of white flowers and green leaves may be placed round it by way of orna- ment. If anything more elaborate is required, a pretty centre ornament may be made with glazed white cardboard, silver paper, and orange- blossom; or a stand and a drum, with artificial flowers, may be hired of the confectioner. Time to bake the cake, about six hours. Probable cost, 10s., or thereabouts. A cake of the same size, if bought at the confectioner’s, would cost at least 30s. Sufficient for a cake the size of a large dinner-plate. This, when placed, on a stand and ornamented, will have a very good appearance. Wedding Cake (see aiso Bride Cake). Weights and Measures. — Every kitchen should have scales, with weights from. a quarter of an ounce to two pounds placed on the dresser, and the weights should be kept. carefully in order. A set of tin measures with. small spouts or lips, with the contents dis- tinctly marked upon them, from a gallon down . to half a gill, will also be found very convenient. WEL ( 1106 ) WEL It is likewise well to have a set of wooden measures, from a bushel down to a quarter of a peck. Let it be remembered that of liquid msasure— ee TA A= Two gills are half a pint. Two pints are one quart. Four quarts are one gallon. Of dry measure— Half a gallon is'a quarter of a peck. ‘One gallon is half a peck. Two gallons are one peck. ‘Four gallons are half a bushel. Hight gallons are one bushel. About twenty-five drops of ‘any thin liquid will fill a common-sized tea-spoon. : A common tumbler holds half a pint. 3 Four table-spoonfuls, or half a gill, will fill a common wine-glass. 9 | Four wine-glasses will fill’ a half-pint or common tumbler, or a large coffee-cup. a A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint and a half. : oe Of fidur, butter, sugar, and most articles used in cakes and pastry, a quart is generally about equal in'quantity to a pound avoirdupois (six- teen ounces). : Pe _ Ten eggs generally. weigh one pound before they are broken. 5, tea-spoonful of salt or brown sugar is gener rally about one ounce. | The following table may be added, by which persons not having scales or weights at hand | may readily measure the articles wanted to form any recipe, without the trouble of weigh- | ing. Allowance must’ be made for any. extra- | ordinary dryness or moisture of the articles weighed or measured. ‘ : Wheat flour . 1 Ib. is lqt. | Indian meal . . 1Ib,,2 02. is 1 qt. Butter, when soft . -L Ib. is lqt. | Loaf sugar broken. =, « L'Ib..is ‘1 qt... Lb. 1 02. ig 1 qt. + 1 Ib. 2 oz. is 1 gts... 10 eggs are 1 Ib.,.-- Flour, . 3 . 8qts.are 1 peck. Flour. . % - 4 pecks. are 1 bush. Welsh Ale, Fine.—Boil fifty gallons of river water for an hour, withdraw the fire, and when the steam has gone off pour it upon seven bushels of fresh-ground malt; cover close, and let it infuse for half an hour. Stir or mash up twenty minutes at least, cover again close, and leave it for two hours. Infuse four pounds of good Worcester hops in half a gallon of hot water one hour; put it into the tub, and.let the wort run upon it from the mash; do, not press the grains, but boil the wort with the hops slowly. but continually two hours, adding two hand- fuls of table-salt the last ten minutes. Strain the wart into your cooler, and work it at the proper temperature (70° Fahr.) with two quarts of good fresh ale-yeast, stirring well twenty minutes. If the weather be cool, cover it up, and in three days fill a thirty-six gallon barrel, covering the bung-hole with a tile, and filling up with the liquor. When the fermentation has entirely ceased, put into the cask a pound of white sugar candy, and a pint of old wheat tied in a muslin bag; then bung it up, paste coarse linen over the bung, and heap sand upon White sugar powdered . Best brown sugar . Eggs. : that. be excellent and beautifully fine. |, 5 Welsh Ale, Strong.—Boil eighty-two gallons of river water an hour; and when).the steam has subsided pour it upon twelve: bushels of prime newly-ground: malt; -eover: close, and when it has infuséd- one hour mash up for twenty minutes, and let it stand ,two hours longer. Pour twe gallons of boiling water on nine pounds of the best Kent hops, cover close, and let it stand an hour; then put it into the tub, and run the wort upon it. Stir well, and boil all together two hours, or more if you choose, but this is long enough for all purposes ; add two or three handfuls of table-salt.at. the last, and when cool enough strain the wort into your cooler, and work it with good fresh yeast. Cover with cloths if the weather is cold, and in three days fill your hogshead; and putting the bung on lightly, or covering. with paper and a slate, let.it work out. Fill up the cask night and morning; and when fermenta- Let it stand twelve months, and it will |, tion has ceased dry two pounds of the spent hops béfore the ‘fire gradually, and put nearly two- thirds of them into the ale. Bung up well, and keep it three years, it will then be fit to drink ; and the latter part, if carefully bottled, willbe admirable in two years more. ‘‘ This recipe,” says Mr. Robinson, “is from the original of a respectable woman, who during a long series of years was accounted the best brewer in North ‘Wales. She preferred March to brew in, unless the weather was severe, to October.” Welsh Beef.—A round of beef prepared | in this way will keep for two months in cold | weather, and constitute.a good standing dish. If the quantity for which the recipe is written is too large, a small round weighing eighteen or twenty pounds may be taken, or a part of a round of the weight that is required, and cooked in the same way. Half a round might lie in the salt ten days or a fortnight, instead of three weeks. Take a round of beef weighing from twenty-five to thirty pounds, rub two ounees of saltpetfe into it, and let it lie for an hour. Rub it well with a powder made of ‘one pound of common ‘salt, one ounce of white pepper, one ounce of moist sugar, one nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce of pounded mace, and a quarter of an ounce of pounded cloves. Lay the meat in a pickling-pan, rub the ingredients into it, and turn and rub them every day for three weeks. . Wash the. meat.in cold water, and let it dry. Skewer it into a round form, and bind with tape. Put it into an earthen | pan.with plenty of chopped suet under and over it, pour a cupful of water or stock round it, cover the vessel with a coarse paste of flour and water, and bake the beef in a moderate oven till tender. Pour off the gravy, and let the beef stand till cold. This gravy will when strained form an excellent foundation for soup. The beef will have a much better appearance ‘if it is pressed under a heavy weight for some hours after beirig taken from the oven, and brushed over twice with liquid glaze. The glaze may be made of any strong clear gravy boiled quickly until it thickens when dropped ‘from the spoon; or a small quantity may be bought of the grocer, dissolved in the usual WEL ( 1107 ) WES ae ‘used. Time to bake the beef, six to ght hours, or a quarter of an hour to the | 1 pound. ‘Probable cost, beef, 10d. or 11d. per pound. © ~ Welsh Capillaire.—Take a pound and a half of clarified honey, half a pound of pre- served ginger, three quarts of strong raisin wine, two quarts of proof. spirit of wine, one ounce each of candied lemon and citron sliced, two ounces of red-currant jelly, four ounces of sugar-candy beaten fine, one ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little water, two ounces of sweet almonds beaten to a paste, half an ounce of bitter almonds also beaten to a paste, one ounce of thin rind of Seville oranges, and one ounce of lemon-juice strained. Clarify the honey to the highest extent; beat the almonds with a spoonful of the wine ; and infuse all in a jar for two months. Then strain and filter it bright; colour with light yellow, and bottle it. This isa pleasant but not strong cordial, and should be kept-in a-cool room until two years old to be, excellent. Welsh Gallimawfrey, — Slice some cheese and put it in amortar. Pound it well, flavour rather highly with mustard, and moisten with butter, alittle vinegar, and wine. When quite smooth it will be ready for serving. Welsh Hams.—A Welsh ham is simply the name given to a fat leg of mutton which has been cured and smoked like an ordinary ham. Asa Welsh ham has little fat of its own, itis customary to put a piece of fat bacon into the pan with it when boiling, and to serve the bacon with the ham. Welsh Leek Porridge.—This is made just like cock-a-leekie soup, and thickened with toasted bread. It used to be the custom to stew French plums with the porridge, but this now ia scarcely ever done. Welsh Nectar (a pleasant summer beve- rage).—Cut the peel of three lemons very thin, and put the rind into a jar with the strained juice, two pounds of loaf sugar, and a pound of raisins stoned and chopped small. Pour upon these ingredients two gallons of water which has been -boiled and allowed to cool. Stir the liquor daily for five days, strain through a jelly-bag, bottle, and tie down the cork, It will be fit for use in ten days or a fortnight. Time, five days to make the nectar. Probable cost, 1s. per gallon. Sufficient to make two allons. Welsh Pudding, Modern (sometimes called Quaker’s Pudding).—Take half a pound of fresh beef suet free from skin and fibre. Chop it small, and mix with it half a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, half a pound of sugar, the grated rind of a large fresh lemon, and the juice of two. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and bind the mixture together with two eggs well beaten. Put it into a buttered ° mould, place it in boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly until done enough. Turn it out carefully, and serve. Time to boil the pudding, four hours. . Probable cost, 1s. or 1s. 2d. Sut. | ficient for half a dozen persons. Welsh Pudding, Very Rich.—Rub a arge lump of sugar upon the rind of a fresh lemon till all the cele partis taken off. Crush it to powder, and add additional sugar to make up the quantity to three ounces. Melt four ounces of fresh butter very gently. Mix with it the yolks of four and the whites of two eggs, and add the sugar. Line a shallow dish with good pastry, put in the mixture, and bake till done enough. Time to bake the pudding, half an hour to three-quarters of an hour. Probable: cost, 1s. 2d. Sufficient for four or five persons. ‘Welsh Rarebit.—Cut half a pound of a mellow Gloucester cheese into thin slices. Put an ounce and a half of butter upon a plate, | and knead it before the fire with a tea-spoonful of unmixed mustard and a pinch of cayenne till it looks like thick cream. Cut froma large loaf a round of bread half an inch thick. Trim away the crust, toast the bread, and butter thickly. Lay half the cheese upon it, pour half the seasoned butter upon that, and add, first the remainder of the cheese, then the rest of the butter. Put the bread in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, and let it remain until the cheese is melted. Serve very hot. Time to toast the cheese, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for two or three persons. Welsh Rarebit (another way).—dSee Cheese, Toasted, or Welsh Rarebit. West Country Pudding.—Take a quarter of ‘a pound of good baking apples, weighed after they are pared and cored. Mince them finely, and mix with them a quarter of a pound of currants picked and dried, a quarter of a pound of finely-grated bread-crumbs, three table-spoonfuls of moist sugar, and two well- beaten eggs. Press the mixture into a buttered mould which it will quite fill, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling quickly till done enough. Send sweet sauce to table with it. If liked, cold boiled rice which has been drained from the milk in which it was boiled may be used instead of bread-crumbs. Time to boil the pudding, one hour and a half. Probable cost, 5d. Sufficient for four or five persons. : West Indian Pepper Pot (see Pepper Pot, West Indian). ; ‘West Indian Pudding.—Take a quar- ter of a pound of stale sponge biscuits, crumble them into a bowl, and pour upon them half a pint of boiling cream nicely sweetened. Let them soak for an hour. Beat the mixture with a fork, and add three well-beaten eggs. Butter asmall pudding-mould. Line it with preserved ginger cut in thin slices, and fill it with the pudding, placed gently into it by spoonfuls so as not to disturb the ginger. Cover it, and tie securely ina cloth. Put it in a saucepan upon a plate turned upside down, surround it with about three inches of boiling water, and keep the water boiling. When done enough, turn it out, and serve with the syrup from the ginger ‘made hot, and poured over it. Probable cost, 1s, 8d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Time, three-quarters of an hour to one hour to steam the pudding. 4 WES (1108 ) WHE Westphalia Hams.—Westphalia is cele- brated for the delicacy and flavour of its hams. A Westphalia ham needs to be soaked longer than one cured at home. It should be laid in eold water for twenty-four hours, drained, covered with fresh water, and left for another twenty-four hours. When sufficiently soaked, cleanse and trim it, put it into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and let it simmer gently for an hour. Take it up, put it in a stewpan upon a bed of sliced carrots, onions, and celery, and add a bunch of marjoram, a sprig of thyme, a clove of garlic, three bay-leaves, a dozen pepper- corns, half a dozen cloves, and a blade of mace. Pour over the ingredients as much stock as will barely cover them, and let the ham simmer gently until done enough. Take the stewpan from the fire, and leave the ham in the liquor till cold. Take it up, draw off the rind, trim the fat evenly, put it in the oven for a few minutes, then press it with a dry cloth to free it from fat, and either glaze it or shake bread- raspings all over it. Time to simmer the ham, about five hours. Westphalia Hams, Mock.— Hams may be cured at home in such a way that they will acquire something of the flavour which belongs to Westphalia hams. To do this, rub each ham with one ounce and a half of pounded saltpetre and one ounce and a half of moist sugar. Let it lie for twenty-four hours. Put a pound of strong stale beer into a stewpan with a pound of common salt, a pound of bay- salt, half a pound of brown sugar, one ounce of black pepper, one ounce of pounded cloves, and a little piece of sal-prunella. Let the liquor boil, skim it, and pour it boiling hot upon the ham, which should be turned and rubbed in it twice a day for a fortnight. Or make the pickle by boiling two gallons of soft water with two pounds of common salt, two ounces of bay- salt, two ounces of saltpetre, and a handful of bay-leaves finely shred. Pour the boiling liquor upon the ham, and turn and rub it every day as before. Burn juniper wood under the hams when snioking them. The Westphalia hams derive their peculiar flavour not from the way in which they are cured and smoked alone: the peculiar nature of the food of the West- phalian pigs has a great deal to do with it. Westphalian Ham Boiled Deli- cately.—After the ham has soaked all night in lukewarm water, it is laid in the kettle with a depth of about nine inches in water, a quart of wine, a little rosemary, a handful of sage, thyme, basil, marjoram, whole pepper, juniper- berries, and some whole onions. With these ingredients it must boil for four hours only, that is to say, to draw it. We may prevent its falling asunder by binding it in a clean old cloth. When completely tender, we take it out in the cloth, lay it on a dish, draw off the rind after removing the cloth, and ornament it with the rind. The more it is garnished the better it is. When cold, lay it from the cloth on a saa dish, and tastefully arrange parsley about it. Westphalian Sausages. — Take six pounds of lean beef and two pounds of cow’s udder-fat ; boil the meat, but let the fat only parboil; then mince them up as fine as possible; take about a third of the quantity of bread- crumbs, which have been soaked in the soup, the soup being well pressed from them; add salt, pounded pepper, cloves, and sausage-herbs; mix the whole well together, and fill fat ox- entrails which have been thoroughly cleaned. Parboil them; then smoke them of a yellowish colour. To be eaten with other things, or warmed with cabbage, or fried in butter. These sausages will not keep very long. fas dorama Sausages (a German re- cipe).—Take twelve pounds of any parts of the pork, fat and lean together, and cut it up. It should not be minced so fine as for other sau~ sages, in fact the pieces should not.be smaller than peas. Season with half an ounce of black pepper freshly ground, and a quarter of a pound of salt, sprinkling the seasoning amon, the meat on beginning mincing. After filling ‘in the pig-skins, hang the sausages to smoke for a week. If to be eaten fresh, the sausages will be improved by hanging for a few days in a cool dry place. Wheat.—The cereal used in the largest quantity is wheat. With regard to its compo- sition, there would appear to be quite as much if not more nutritive matter in oats—a larger quantity of saline matter, and, in fact, of all those constituents of food which are necessary to the production of tissues, the maintenance of the animal heat, and the supply of mineral materials to the body. With regard, also, to barley, we find that barley has the same capa- bilities as oats—it contains all the constituents — of wheat and of oats. We may also say in regard to maize, that it contains the same con- stituents—starch, nutritive matter, and saline matter—even in larger quantities than oats and wheat; and, in addition to them, it con- tains a very large quantity of fatty matter and of oily matter, which is not found in wheat, in barley, or in oats. Why, then, has wheat been consumed so largely by the most polished nations on the face of the earth? Why do barley, oats, rice, maize, and millet constantly succumb to wheat? Where wheat will grow there it has been grown—in India and China— and where people can get. wheat they will have it. I have no other explanation to offer, except that wheaten flour alone of all these farinaceous foods will make fermented bread. I do not know, however, that the time may not come when we shall find that the fermented bread of wheat flour is not so good as the unfermented bread from the flour of other grains, and that ’ we may not have occasion to change our habits in this respect. But at the present time wheat is consumed. Its product is more abundant in districts of a higher temperature than our own, and it is always cultivated in this country with difficulty. Our really natural grains are barley and oats. Barley is cultivated as high as 70° of latitude, and also in the tropical parts of the , western world; so that barley has a greater range than oats or wheat. The oat has a much more northern range than wheat, and of the . three, the wheat is cultivated in our northern - / WHE ( 1109 ) WHE climate at the greatest uncertainty and expense; put atill we cultivate it. Wheat does not ap- pear to have a larger quantity of nutritive matter: it contains less protein than oats, and very little more than Indian meal; a consider- able quantity, however, more than rice, but not a much larger quantity than barley-meal. It seems, then, not so much its composition, as the power it possesses of making a light loaf by fer- mentation, which causes it to be the favourite form of food. “4 Wheat and Maize Bread.—Mix seven pounds of Indian meal with double its weight in wheaten flour, and add four ounces of salt. Mix a pint and a half of fresh yeast with two quarts of boiling water. Make a hollow in the flour without touching the bottom of the bowl, pour in the yeast and stir into it as much flour as will make a thin batter. Sprinkle flour lightly on the surface of the batter, cover the; bowl, and leave it on the hearth for anhour. Stir into it two additional quarts of boiling water, cover it again, and let it stand in a warm place for ten hours. Knead thoroughly, gash the surface with a knife, and let the dough rise a couple of hours longer till itis very light. Form it into loaves, put these into the tins, let them rise half an hour longer, and bake in a good oven. If the crust is hard, wrap the loaves in a towel as soon as they are taken from the oven. Bread made in this way is inexpen- sive and wholesome. It has a peculiar flavour which improves with acquaintance. Wheat and Rice Bread (see Bread, Wheat and Rice). Wheatears.—These birds are in season from July to October. They should be dressed the day on which they are killed. Carefully pick and draw the birds, truss them like larks, put them on a bird-spit, or pass a long skewer from one bird tothe other, and put the roasting- hook between them that they may hang side by side. Flour them, put them down toa clear fire, and baste plentifully with butter. When flone, dish them upon fried bread, and garnish the dish with sliced lemon. Send bread sauce to table with them. Many cooks brush them over with yolk of egg and sprinkle bread- crumbs upon them before putting them down to the fire. Time to roast the wheatears, about ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. Wheaten Bread, Wholesomeness of.—The chemical changes which flour under- goes during the process of making bread are not easily understood; for when the panary fermentation is completed, its properties are so altered that we cannot obtain from it either fecula or gluten. Bread, therefore, differs widely from the flour of which it is composed, and, in fact, may be considered as a new sub- stance. It is easier of digestion than any other preparation of flour, and mixes more readily with water, but is considerably less nutritive. Newly-baked bread, however, swells in the stomach, and is far from being easily digested. Indeed, the process of fermentation does not appear to be completed till the bread is cold; for new bread differs from old, not only in its effects, but in its smell and taste. The best bread, says Dr. Coghan, is made of pure flour of good wheat, sufficiently lea- vened, somewhat salted, well moulded, well baked, neither too new nor too old; that is to say, that it be at least a day and a night old, and not past four or five days old, except the loaves be very great. Besides the nutritive qualities of bread, it prevents the bad effects which would result from the use of too much animal food, rich soup, and other concentrated food; and also serves to divide and give our aliment a proper bulk and consistence. It may be allowed to the stomach of the weakest patient, neither stimulates nor relaxes the system, and is justly called the staff of life. Whelks.—Procure the whelks alive if pos- sible. To cleanse them, put them into fresh WHELES. water for several hours. Boil them in salt and water. They are hard and leathery in sub- stance, and will need to boil a long time. The small ones, which may be eaten as periwinkles, will require three-quarters of an hour; the large ones with shells as large as hens’ eggs, one hour and a quarter. Large whelks, even after being thus boiled, are scarcely eatable; WHE (1110 ) WHI therefore take them out of their shells, flour them or dip them in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Before serving, sprinkle pepper and vinegar upon them. Good soup maigre may be made from whelks. Whey.—Whey decanted from the curds and sweetened affords a favourite sudorific draught, which may be advantageously partaken of at bedtime whenever there is a threatening of cold in the head. Whey (another way).— See Curd. Whey, Alum (see Alum Whey). Whey, Irish (an excellent drink in cases of fever).—Put two-thirds of a pint of sweet milk into a saucepan, let it boil, and then stir into it a third of a pint of fresh buttermilk. Gently stir the mixture round, and let it boil up. Pour it out, let it settle, and strain off the whey. In Ireland milk is generally turned in the way thus described. The whey possesses a slight acidity which is very agreeable: it is of a perfectly clear greenish hue. It is often called two-milk whey. . Whey, Lemon.—Let the quantity of milk required boil, and stir into it when boiling as much strained lemon-juice as will turn the milk. Let it boil a minute or two, cool it, and strain off the whey. Add as much water as will make it an agreeable beverage, sweeten, and it will be ready for use. Whey thus made is less heating than that for which wine is. used. When they are liked, the curds may be sweetened, flavoured with nutmeg, and eaten. They are rather indigestible, and should cer- tainly be avoided by an invalid. Whey, Lemon (another way).— See Lemon Whey. a Whey, Vinegar.—Make a pint of milk boil, and stir into it when boiling a glassful of vinegar. Let it boil from one to two minutes, cool it, and strain off the whey. A little water and sugar may be added if liked. Vinegar whey, like lemon whey, is less heating than wine. ey and it promotes perspiration just as well. . Whey, Wholesomeness of.—When milk is coagulated by the addition of a small piece of rennet, the whey, when separated from the curd, contains some butter and curd in solu- tion ; it also holds in solution nearly all the sugar of the milk, and is therefore more liable than milk to ferment in weak stomachs, and produce |. flatulence. Whey is not so nutritious as milk, but affords an excellent demulcent drink in consumption, coughs, jaundice, and some other diseases, either alone or mixed with mineral waters. Whey, Wine.—Boil a pint of new milk in a saucepan, and stir into it two glassfuls of sherry or raisin wine, or less if that will com- pletely turn it. Bring it again to the point of boiling, let it stand a few minutes, remove the curd, pour off the clear whey, and sweeten. If it is for an invalid a little hot water may be added. The curd is indigestible. Whim Wham.—Rub three ounces of sugar in lumps upon the rind of half a lemon till the yellow part is taken off, crush it to . purpose. powder, and stir it into a pint of cream. Add a glassful of sherry or any other white wine and the well-whisked white of an egg. Whisk the cream till it froths, and as the froth rises place it on a sieve to drain. Put back into the bowl the cream that drains from the froth, and whisk it again. If the weather is cold, leave the froth in acool place until the next day. Cut four ounces of sponge biscuits into very thin slices, and fill a glass dish with alternate layers of whipped cream, sliced bis- cuit, and currant jelly. Let the froth form the uppermost layer. Pour the cream which has drained from the froth round the dish, and garnish with strips of candied peel and bright- coloured jelly. Time, one hour or more to whip the cream. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. Suf- ficient for a moderate-sized dish. wired Cream (a French recipe).—Put a quart. of very thick cream into a pan; beat it with a whisk until it becomes entirely frothed, which will soon be the case if the weather be cold; or, to hasten the operation, put some pounded ice with a good handful of salt into a deep pan, and in it set your pan of cream. The froth will have a greater consistency if you put into the cream a piece of pounded gum-traga- canth about the size of a pea, or the white of an egg beat up: but the former is preferable. If the froth forms slowly, take it off by degrees with a slice, and lay it on a sieve covered with a fine cloth to drain till wanted for serving, which ought not to be long, or the froth will fall. What drains from it may be added to the rest and whipped. If the cream ‘will not froth in a quarter of an hour it is not good for that When it has drained, mix three or four ounces of sifted sugar to it, and flavour according to taste as follows :—A spoonful of orange-flower water, or a few. orange-flowers pounded mixed with the sugar; or a tea-spoonful of the essence of roses, with a little rose-lake to colour it; or pound a quarter of a stick of vanilla with one ounce of sugar, boil and strain, add two ounces of sifted sugar, and mix it with the cream; or press the juice of four ounces of strawberries or raspberries, mixed with the sugar, and a little carmine to colour it. Lemon, orange, or any fruit you please may be used in the same way; or a small glassful of maraschino or any other liqueur-may be added to the sugar to flavour the cream. (See Cream, Whipped.) Whipped Cream, Lemon.—Rasp the rind of two large lemons on a piece of sugar, and as the sugar imbibes it scrape it off into a basin with some cream, whip it up, and send it to table. It-is improved if set on ice or placed in a refrigerator for some time before sending to table. Orange cream is made in the same way. Whip Sauce, Rich, for Boiled Puddings. — Beat the yolks of two eggs in a small basin, and add a pinch of salt, a table-spoonful of powdered white sugar, a small glassful of sherry or of any kind of liqueur, and a few drops of almond, lemon, orange, or vanilla flavouring. Put the basin in a sauce- pan which contains a small quantity of boiling water, and whisk the sauce over the fire till \ WHI (1111 ) WHI it looks like frothed cream. Pour it over the pudding, and serve. Whipped Sylabubs.—Mix a quarter of a pint of sherry with two table-spoontfuls of brandy, stir the mixture into half a pint of thick cream, and add a little grated nutmeg, the strained juice of half a lemon, and as much sugar as will sweeten the syllabub pleasantly. Put the cream into glasses, pile whipped cream upon the surface, and serve. Sufficient to fill eight glasses. Probable cost, 1s. without the sherry and brandy. Time, one hour or more to whip the cream. ‘Whips.—Take some small custard-glasses, half fill them with crumbled macaroons, rata- fias, and sponge biscuits in equal proportions, pour upon them a little sherry mixed with a table-spoonful of brandy, spread a thin layer of raspberry jam upon them, and cover with eustard. Heap some whipped cream on the top of the glasses, and serve. : - SWhisky Apples, for Dessert.—Take some large sound sweet apples, pare and core them without dividing the fruit. Weigh them, and put them into a preserving-pan’with half a, quarter of a pint of whisky, the thin rind | and ‘strained juice of a lemon, one inch and |. 5 > high esteemed by epicures, belongs especially to a half of stick citmamon, half an inch of stick vanilla, a piece of whole ginger the size of a bean, two cloves, and three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar to each pound of apples. Simmer as gently as possible, and turn them over fre- quently till they are tender and quite clear. Take them up carefully, and put them into | glazed jars. Strain the syrup, boil quickly for five minutes, and pour it over the fruit. Tie bladder over the jars, and store the fruit ina éool dry place. It will keep for a year or more. American Newton pippins are the best for this purpose. Time to simmer the apples, about an hour anda half. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. for‘éach pound of apples. Sufficient for a des- sert dish. : “aWhisky, Apples Stewed in (see Apples Stayed in Whisk). Ge “Whisky Cordial.—This cordial should be tndde when white currants are in season. Take the thin rind of a large fresh lemon entirely free from the white bitter part. Put it irito a Jar with half a pint of ripe white currants strifped from the stalks and a piece of whole gitger the size of a bean. Pour over the in- gredients a quart of whisky, and let them in- fuse for twenty-four hours. | Strain the liquor, aweeten with half a pound of loaf sugar, let it stand twelve hours longer, and bottle for use. Cork securely. Time, two days. Whisky Punch.—Rub three or four large lumps of sugar upon the rind of three lemons till the yellow part is taken off, and add more sugar to make up the quantity to six ounces, Put the sugar into a bowl, squeeze upon it the juice of two of the lemons, and a upon it a pint and a half of boiling water. fit the mixture till the sugar is dissolved. Add a pint of whisky, and the punch will be teady for serving. | Whisky Punch (another, way).—Whisky, when it can be obtained genuine, is perhaps the purest spirit of any, and the least noxious when taken in large quantities.’ The sugar is first dissolved in doiling ‘water, and thé’ spirit added either in a tumbler or jug, and that is the general process. Some prefer a little lemon, in which case the sugar should be rubbed on the rind, and the juice added in making the syrup. It is also a common practice to add a spoonful of raspberry jam, which gives a pleasant taste to the beverage. ae Whisky Punch (another way).—See Punch, Whisky. Whisky Shrub. — Boil five pounds of moist sugar to a syrup with a pint of water. Add the strained juice of four pounds of lemons and one pound of Seville oranges. Stir the | liquor, and when it is quite cold add half a pint of porter and a gallon of pine whisky. | Pour the mixture into a jar, cork closely, and shake it each day for seven days. Put it into a cool closet, arid leave it for five weeks; then bottle, and store for use. ’ White and Clear Soup, Quenelles for (sce Quenelles.for White an . Whitebait.—This favourite fish, so highly Clear Soup). London, being found in the Thames as far as Blackwall. Great differences exist as to its parentage, many supposing that it is the fry WHITEBAIT, either of the shad, the sprat, or the smelt, and others declaring that it 1s a distinct species of herring. Perhaps the most general opinion is that it is the fry of the common herring. It is a small silvery-looking fish, from about an inch in length.’ It first makes its appearance in March, and is tobe had in perfection in May, June, and July. It should be procured per- fectly fresh and in an unbroken condition. if not to be used immediately, it should be put into iced ‘water as soon as it is brought in. It is served cither fried or devilled with cayenne, lemons cut into ‘quarters, and brown bread and butter. It requires no sauce. The fry of various species of fish are treated as whitebait, and if not too large are passable. , WHI ( 1112 ) WHI Whitebait, Devilled.—Fry the whitebait in the usual way till it is crisp. Lift the basket out of the fat, shake the fish, and sprinkle over it a little salt and black pepper. Plunge the basket again into the fat, and let it remain for a few seconds. Drain the fish, and’ turn it upon a napkin. If a red devil is required, sprinkle a little cayenne upon the fish (in addi- tion to the black pepper already used) after it is taken out of the fat for the last time. It is a common practice with cooks to take whitebait which has been fried and served in the ordinary way, to sprinkle black pepper upon it, to plunge it into the hot fat, and, after allowing it to remain for a short time to drain it, sprinkle it again with pepper, and serve a second time as devilled whitebait.! Whitebait, Dressed.—Take the white- bait out of the water with the fingers, drain them, and throw them into a cloth upon which flour has been strewn. Shake them in the cloth to make the flour adhere to them, then toss them in a large wide sieve to free them: from the superfluous flour. If the fish stick together, separate them, but they will not do this if they are fresh. Have ready plenty of boiling beet-fat (this is much better than lard, which is usually recommended), put the white- bait a few at a time into a wire basket, plunge in the boiling fat, and leave them for a minute or two. At the end of that time shake them to keep them from sticking together, and when they are slightly crisp without being browned they are done enough. Drain them from the fat while they are still in the basket, sprinkle a little salt upon them, pile them on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve very hot. Send 4uarters of lemon and brown bread and butter to table with them. Time to fry the whitebait, a few minutes. Whitebait, Mock.—Take cooked or un- cooked white fish of any kind; uncooked fish is of course the best. Divide it into strips an inch long and a quarter of an inch wide. Dip these into frying batter, put them into a wire frying- basket, and plunge them into very hot fat. Let them remain till they are lightly browned. Drain them, pile on a hot dish, and serve with cayenne, quarters of lemons, and thin brown bread and butter. The frying batter may be made by beating together briskly and tho- roughly a table-spoonful of flour, a pinch of salt, two table-spoonfuls of milk, and one egg. Flour varies in quality, so that some kinds require more liquid than others. The batter, however, should be a little thicker than cream. Time to fry the fish, four to five minutes. White Bean (sce White Kidney Beans). White Béchamel Sauce, Cold (to mask boiled poultry, turbot, &c., which is to be served cold).—Make the béchamel of nicely- flavoured white stock, so strong that it will jelly when cold. A spoonful of gelatine dis- solved in a little white stock will answer the purpose if jellied stock is not at hand. Mix with it when hot an equal quantity of milk or cream, strain it into a basin, thicken with arrowroot, and when cold it will be fit for use. It should be thick enough to adhere to the bird, &c., which it is to mask. White Béchamel Sauce (economical and good).—Good béchamel may be made of the remains of a cold roast fowl. Break up the bones, and put them into a saucepan with two or three bacon-bones, a small car- rot, a small onion, a very small piece of mace, two peppercorns, and a pinch of salt. Pour over the ingredients as’ much water as will entirely cover them, and simmer gently for two hours. Carefully remove the scum as it rises. Half an hour before the stock is taken from the fire, stir into it a tea-spoonful of gelatine which has been soaked for half an hour in two table-spoonfuls of water. Strain the stock into a bowl, and when it is cold re- move the fat from the surface. Put it into a clean saucepan, and simmer till it is reduced to about three-quarters of a pint. Mix with it an equal quantity of boiling cream or milk, slightly thicken with arrowroot, add salt to taste, and it will be ready for use. Time, three to four hours. Probable cost, 4d., exclusive of the cold meat. Sufficient for a pint and a half of white béchamel sauce. ‘White Béchamel Sauce (to make a small quantity).—Put two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour into a saucepan, and stir them over the fire briskly with a wooden spoon to a smooth paste. Add gradually three- quarters of a pint of milk, together with a small onion, two or three sticks of celery cut up small, half a carrot thinly sliced, half a bay- leaf, a very small sprig of thyme, a bunch of parsley, a little nutmeg, and a pinch of salt. Stir the sauce over a quick fire till it is pleasantly flavoured, strain it into a basin, and it will be fit for use. By increasing the quantities, and preserving the proportions, a larger quantity of sauce may be made if re- quired. Time to boil the sauce, twenty minutes. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for a little more than half a pint of sauce. White Beet, To Dress the Leaves of.—Pick the leaves, and wash them in three or four waters. Throw them into boiling water slightly salted, and keep them boiling quickly tilltender. Drain the water thoroughly from them, chop them small, and heat them in a saucepan with a little butter, pepper, and salt. They may be used as a substitute for spinach. Time to boil the leaves, twenty minutes or more. « White Cabbage, To Pickle.—Take a firm white cabbage; remove the outer leaves, sprinkle salt upon it, and leave it for a couple of hours. Wash it in cold water, drain it, and cut it into very thin shreds. Make some brine sufficiently strong to float an egg, pour this. cold over the shred cabbage, and leave it for a fortnight. Stir every day. Boil as much vinegar as will entirely cover it for five minutes with spices in the proportion of a quarter of an ounce of whole ginger, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, a quarter of an ounce of long pepper, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of turmeric mixed smoothly with a little cold vinegar, a tea-spoonful of mustard WHI ( 1113 ) WHI seed, and a piece of alum the size of a pea to each pint of vinegar. A clove of garlic may be added if liked. Skim the vinegar, and pour it hot over the cabbage. Let it remain three days. Drain off the vinegar, boil it, and again pour it hot over the cabbage. Put the cabbage into bottles or unglazed jars, divide the spices equally amongst these, and cover the pickle entirely with the vinegar. Add more vinegar (which has been boiled and allowed to go cold) as required. Time, eighteen days. White Cake.—Beat one pound of fresh butter to cream. Workin gradually one pound of powdered white sugar, one pound of dried flour, a dessert-spoonful each of candied orange and lemon-peel chopped small, an ounce of caraway-seeds, half a nutmeg grated, a quarter of a pint of cream, five well-beaten eggs, a small glassful of brandy, and a little rose or orange-flower water. Beat the cake well between every addition. Mix with it a table- spoonful of fresh yeast, cover with a cloth, and put it on the hearth to rise. When suf- ficiently risen, put it into a well-buttered tin, and bake in a well-heated oven. As soon as it is done enough, brush over with the beaten white of an egg, sprinkle powdered white sugar over it, and put it in a cool oven for a short time till the glazing is hard. Time to let the cake rise, about half an hour. Probable cost, exclusive of the brandy, 3s. 4d. White Cake (another way: sometimes called one, two, three, four cake).—Take a cup- ful of butter, two cupfuls of sugar, three cupfuls of flour, and four eggs. Beat the butter to cream, and add the sugar, the flour, and lastly the eggs. Flavour the mixture with grated nutmeg or lemon-rind. Dredge flour upon the ' table, and roll out the cake to the thickness of the third of aninch. Put the cakes on baking- sheets, prick them lightly with a fork, and bake ina well-heated oven. ‘Time to bake the cake, about a quarter of an hour. White Cake, American (see American White Cake). White Cakes (simple recipe).—Rub an ounce of butter into half a pound of dried and sifted flour. Add a small pinch of salt, four table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar, half a tea-spoonful of caraway-seeds, one egg, and as «iach milk as will make a smooth light paste. Roll it out a. quarter of an inch thick, cut it into shapes, and bake these on baking-tins in a quick oven. Time to bake the cakes, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4d. for this quantity. White Cup Cakes.—Take as much fresh butter as will fill one cup, as much powdered white sugar as will fill two cups, and as much _ flour as will fill three cups. Beat the butter to cream, add the powdered sugar and the flour. Whisk the whites of eight eggs to froth, and add them gradually to the mixture, together with a table-spoonful of powdered saleratus dissolved in a little hot water, a table-spoonful ‘ of rose water, and as much milk or cream as will make the batter of the consistency of pound- cake batter. Butter some small tins, three * parts fill them with the mixture, and bake in a well-heated oven. The yolks of the eggs may of course be used for other purposes. Time to bake the cakes, according to size. Probable cost, 2s. 4d. for this quantity. ‘ _White Fish and Sauce.—Take three pints of veal stock; put it into a saucepan with the heads and fins of five haddocks, four onions, a bunch of parsley, three inches of thin lemon- rind, and a little salt and cayenne. Simmer the liquor for an hour, strain it, and put with it a dessert-spoonful of strained lemon-juice and a large wine-glassful of light wine. Mince the flesh of a lobster or crab. Thicken the sauce with a little white thickening, skim carefully, add a little cream and, if liked, the well-beaten yolk of an egg, and stir the mince into it. Boil the haddocks, put them on a dish, garnish with forcemeat balls, and pour the sauce over them. The forcemeat may be made as follows :—Tear the flesh of a small boiled haddock into flakes. Mix with it an equal quantity of bread-crumbs, and add a small proportion of chopped parsley. Rub a little butter into the mixture, and season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Bind it together with egg, form it into balls, and fry these in hot fat toa light brown colour. Time, altogether, two hours. White Kidney Bean.—The harisot bane, or white kidney bean, deserves to be introduced more generally into our kitchens. There are various methods of dressing these beans, but the best is to have them softened in the gravy of a leg of mutton; they are then a good substitute for potatoes. They are nearly as good dressed with oil or butter, and Napoleon was exceedingly fond of them dressed as a salad. Of course we allude here to the bean which, in full maturity, is taken from the pod, and eaten in winter. In England we eat the pod itself (in summer) split, and served with roast mutton and venison. The mature bean, however, makes an excellent dish. U White Kidney Beans (4 la Lyon- naise).—Cut a few onions into dice, and fry them in a little butter till they are of a light- brown colour; then add two spoonfuls of Spanish sauce. Let the onions be well done; season them with pepper and salt; drain the Deans that have been done as above, then throw them into the sauce, and serve up hot. If you have no Spanish sauce, when you have fried the onions, add a spoonful of fine flour, and moisten with good gravy, or broth, and a little glaze; then boil very well, and put the beans in as directed. This manner is for entre- mets, ‘and they are dressed the same to put under a leg of mutton roasted, or a quarter of mutton 4 la Lyonnaise. White Kidney Beans (4 la Maitre d’Hétel._White beans, when fresh, must be put into boiling water; but if dry, they must he soaked for an hour in cold water before being boiled. Then boil them in cold water, and replenish with cold water also, which makes the rind or coat tender. White beans must be well done before being dressed 4 la maitre d’hétel, which is done as follows:— Put in a stewpan a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little parsley chopped very fine, and gome pepper and salt, over which lay the beans WHI (1114 ) WHI well drained. Keep moving the stewpan, without using a spoon, for fear of breaking the beans. Then squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and serve quite hot. White Kidney Beans, Purée of.— The beans, which must be boiled beforehand, are to be mixed with the following preparation : Chop some onions, fry them lightly in a little butter, put a little flour to fry in the butter, and when done moisten with a spoonful or two of broth. Let the onions be thoroughly done. Next let the beans heat in the sauce till quite hot, season well, without pepper, and strain through a tamis. Reduce the purée over a brisk fire, skim off the white scum, and before serving refine the purée with a bit of very fresh butter and two spoonfuls of thick cream. This dish is to be garnished with fried crusts of bread allround. The same method is used to make the soup 4 la purée d’haricot, only put some strong consommé in it, and keep the purée quite clear. Serve with the soup some erumbs of bread cut in small squares and fried brown in butter. ‘White Kidney Beans, Purée of (another way).—New white beans should be used for making a purée. If fresh, put them into boiling water; if dry, into, cold water, adding a little butter in either case, to make the skin more mellow. When the beans are done enough, add a handful of salt to season them. Fry in a little butter a few slices of onions. When they are melted, sprinkle them with half a spoonful of flour; moisten with consommé, and season with a little pepper and salt; skim off the grease. When the flour is done, mix it well with the beans, let them boil a quarter of an hour, and squeeze them well before rubbing them through a tamis. Let the purée be rather limpid, as it is liable to thicken when on the fire. A short time before serving mix a small piece of butter with the purée. ; White Pot, Devonshire (see Devonshire White Pot). : ‘White Puddings.—White puddings are frequently made with the white part (other- wise the frill or fraise) of a calf’s pluck boiled and minced, and mixed with an equal weight of boiled bacon, soaked bread-crumbs, and sausage meat, seasoned with salt and pepper, flavoured with boiled onion and spices, and bound together with yolk of egg. The pud- dings thus made will not keep. They should be put into well-cleaned sausage-skins, and baked in the oven or broiled over a clear fire, and served very hot. Before being used the calf’s frill should be thrown into cold water, and kept there till wanted. It should be boiled in salt and water, and cooled before being minced for the pudding. White Puddings (another way).—Take the fry of a small freshly-killed pig, with half a pound of fresh pork and half a pound of the inner fat of the pig. Mince all finely os and mix thoroughly with a handful of fresh parsley leaves, two sage leaves, a sprig of chervil, and a moderate-sized onion, all chopped small. Take three ounces of the stale crumb of bread, grate finely, and boil it to a pulp in half a pint of milk; beat it with a wooden spoon, and add a heaped tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, a tea- spoonful of white pepper, half a tea-spoonful of dry mustard, as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a threepenny-piece, a pinch of powdered mace, a pinch of powdered coriander-seed, and a tea-spoonful of grated lemon-rind. When the seasoning ingredients are thoroughly mixed with the boiled bread, stir in the minced meat, and bind the mixture together with the well- beaten yolks of two and the white of one egg. A small piece of garlic may be added to the other ingredients, if the flavour is not objected to; and work in one ounce and a half of dried flour. Three-parts fill some well-prepared pigs’ skins with the mixture, and tie them firmly in links about six inches in length. Be careful to leave room for the mixture to swell. Put them into warm water, let them boil, then simmer gently for two hours. As they swell prick them with a needle to let out the air. Hang them in a cool situation. When wanted, cover with but- tered paper and broil the puddings over a clear fire; remove the paper, and serve very hot. Time to broil the puddings, about twenty-five minutes. - | White Poldings (another way).—Cut half a.pound of the flesh of a cold roast fowl into slices, then mince it finely, and mix with it four ounces of the inner fat of the pig also minced. ,Boil a quarter of a pint of bread- crumbs in half a pint of milk till it forms a thick paste; skin and chop small one large onion, dissolve two ounces of fresh butter in a stewpan, put in the onion and the minced meat, cover the stewpan closely, and let its contents stew gently till the onions are tender; add the soaked bread-crumbs, season the mixture with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and bind together with the yolks of three eggs; stir the mixture over ‘the fire briskly for five minutes. Clean some skins thoroughly, three-parts fill them with the mixture, tie them firmly in links about six-inches in length, and put them into a saucepan with plenty of water, het but not boiling; bring the water to the boil, then simmer the puddings for ten minutes. Drain them, and hang them in a cool situation till wanted. Before using them, cover with but- tered paper, and broil over a clear fire; serve very hot on a dish covered with a nap- kin. If more convenient, the flesh of roast pheasants, partridges, hares, or veal, may be used instead of roast fowl. Time, about twenty-five minutes to broil the puddings... White Puddings (another way).—Take eight ounces of beef suet, eight ounces of oat- meal, one ounce and a half of onion shred very small, an eighth of an ounce of salt, an eighth of an ounce of ground black pepper; mix these ingredients thoroughly without water, and tie hard up ‘in a cloth. Boil for an hour and a half esis Mag an open goblet, keeping it always under water, which must be boiling when the pudding is put in. 0 White Puddings, Sweet.—Shred finely half a pound of fresh pork kidney fat, put it into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt, four ounces of flour, four ounces of powdered | WHI ( 1115 ) WHI white sugar, four ounces of currants cleaned and picked, two ounces of ground rice, a table- spoonful of candied lemon-peel, and the same quantity of candied orange-peel, both chopped small, an ounce of sweet and four bitter al- monds blanched and chopped, and a little grated nutmeg. Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly, moisten with a quarter of a pint of new milk, and bind the mixture together with two well- whisked eggs. Beat the pudding with a wooden spoon for twenty minutes, put it into well-. eaned skins, and be careful to leave room for the mixture to swell. Tie the ends securely, put the puddings into boiling water, and boil gently until done enough. Before serving them remove the skins. If liked, the puddings may be put aside and kept for a while before being used. They must then be hung separately in a cool situation, and boiled for a short time, to heat them, before serving. Time to boil the puddings, about two hours and a half; when boiled the second time, a quarter of an hour will be sufficient. Probable cost, 1s. 3d. Suf- ficient for six or eight persons. White Roux.—Dissolve a pound of fresh butter in a saucepan over a slow fire; skim it thoroughly, and pour the pure oily part into a clean saucepan, leaving behind the thick curd at the bottom. Stir into it very gradually one pound of well-dried flour, and stir it over a very gentle fire till it is thoroughly baked but not at all browned. The more slowly it is done the better, but care must be taken that it does not acquire the least colour. Put it into a small jar for use; it will keep for some time. Sufficient, a tea-spoonful will thicken half a pint of gravy. White Sauce. — Melt two ounces of butter, and fry in it gently two ounces of lean ham. Do not let it discolour. Stir into it one ounce and a half of flour, pour on one pint of white stock, and add six button mushrooms cut up small, and two small carrots. Stir the sauce till it boils, draw the pan back, put the lid half on, and simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. Skim away the fat, strain the sauce through a tamis, add half a gill of cream, and the sauce is ready. White Sauce (a French recipe),—Take one ounce of good butter, put it into a sauce- pan, stir in a spoonful of flour, add a glass- ful of water, put it on the fire, and keep stirring. When the sauce boils, take it off, set it on one side, and salt it. Should it be too thick, add a little water; if too thin, a piece of butter rolled in flour. Just before serving, beat up the yolks of two or three eggs to stir in; warm the sauce, but take care not to let it boil; then put in a dash of vinegar. White Sauce, Celery with (sce Celery with White Sauce). White Sauce, Cucumber (ses Cucum- ber White. Sauce). White Sauce, Economical.—Beat two ounces of flour and an ounce of butter to a smooth paste in a saucepan over the fire. Add gradually a pint of milk and a little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Stir the sauce over the fire for a few minutes, strain through a pointed strainer, and it will be ready for use. White Sauce, Eggs and (see Eggs and White Sauce). White Sauce for Boiled Chicken Chicken, White Sauce for Boiled). a White Sauce for Fish.—Mince two anchovies, and put them into a delicately clean saucepan with a glassful of light wine, a glass- ful of vinegar, and an onion stuok with one clove. Simmer all gently together till the anchovies are dissolved, then strain the liquor. Mix a dessert -spoonful of flour smoothly with a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan; cook thoroughly, then add a quarter of a pint of milk or cream. Stir the sauce over a gentle fire for a few minutes till it thickens, lift it from the fire, and add the strained liquor. Or mix half an ounce of butter in a saucepan with an ounce of flour; stir in half a pint of cream or milk, two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, a tea- spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a litile cayenne. Stir the sauce over the fire for a minute or two, and serve. White Sauce for Pike (sce Pike, White Sauce for). White Sauce for Turkey or Fowl.— Take the head, neck, heart, and feet of the birds, wash them thoroughly in hot water, cut them into small pieces, and put them into a saucepan with a slice of lean veal, two sprigs of parsley, a spig of thyme, a square inch of thin lemon-rind, a blade of mace, three pepper- corns, and a quart of cold water. Cover closely, and simmer gently till the stock is strong and good. Strain the liquor through a napkin laid in a sieve, and when cold free it entirely from fat. Put a tumblerful into a saucepan, and let it boil. Stir into it a table-spoonful of flour which has been mixed to a smooth paste with a little cold milk, and add more milk or cream to make it equal the measure of the stock. Stir the sauce over the fire till it is white and thick, and add pepper and salt if required. If the sauce is to be poured over cold poultry, it should be made thick enough to adhere to the birds: therefore, less stock should be used for the sauce, with a little more flour and cream. When more convenient, the veal may be omitted, and a tea-spoonful of gelatine may be used instead. The liquor in which poultry, veal, or rabbits have been boiled is excellent for making white sauce. Time to simmer the stock, about two hours; to simmer the sauce, a few minutes. Probable cost, 6d., if made with milk. Sufficient for five or six persons. White Sauce for Vegetables.—Put a pint of stock made from bones into a saucepan with an inch of lemon-rind, half a blade of mace, and six peppercorns. Let it simmer for half an hour, then strain it. Mix a table- spoonful of corn-flour smoothly with a little cold milk. Stir this into the stock, and also a little more milk to make up the measure to about three-quarters ‘of a pint. Add pepper and salt if required. Simmer the sauce, stirring it well, for about five minutes; pour it out, stir into it a small piece of frésh butter until it is dissolved, and serve. ‘Time, altogether, one hour. a, WHI ( 1116 ) WHI White Sharp Sauce.—Take a little white stock, and flavour it pleasantly with two or three‘ mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and some young onions. Strain it, thicken with white thickening, and boil till smooth. Stir into it a little tarragon vinegar to flavour it pleasantly, and add salt and cayenne, together with a small proportion of cream, and just before serving stir into it until dissolved a small piece of fresh butter. When a very rich sauce is required, the well-beaten yolks of one or two eggs may be added. Beat the eggs ina bowl. Let the sauce cool a little, then stir a table-spoonful of it into the eggs, and add the rest gradually. Stir the sauce over the fire for a minute or two, but on no account allow it to boil ; then serve. White Soup.—The ‘meats to be used in making stock for white soup are veal, fowls, rabbits, and calf’s feet, or cow heel. White soups may be thickened with white roux, rice, ground rice, arrowroot, macaroni, tapioca, vermicelli, pearl barley, &c., and boiling cream or milk should be added. Half milk and half stock is a good proportion for white soups, and the peculiar seasouing and flavouring must be particularly attended to. It is a good plan to keep a separate stock-pot for the pre- paration of white soups. White Soup (another way).—Take three pints of good white stock entirely free from fat and sediment, put it into a stewpan, and let it heat’ gently. Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, and pound them to a paste in a marble mortar with a little water to keep them from oiling. Mince and pound with them a slice of dressed veal or fowl, and add a table-spoonful of stale bread-crumbs anda small blade of mace finely powdered. When the mixture is smooth, stir it very gradually into a pint of cream, and add a pint of the stock; put into it an inch of thin lemon-rind, and simmer over the fire for a few minutes. Stir into it as much of the stock as will make it of the thickness of cream, and simmer the soup gently for half an hour. Remove the lemon-rind, and serve the soup with toasted sippets. If liked, arrowroot, ground rice, or common flour may be used instead of the almonds; and, when cream cannot be had, new milk mixed with the yolks of eggs may be used instead. The egg should be beaten in the soup tureen; it should be mixed with a table- spoonful of the milk, the rest of the milk (boiling) should be added gradually, and the soup poured in. , By increasing the quantities and preserving the proportions, a larger quan- tity of soup may be made. Time to simmer the thickening in the soup, half an hour. Suf- ficient for eight or nine persons. White Soup (another vale ae two quarts of good, nicely-flavoured white stock, entirely free from fat (see Stock, White, for Soups and Sauces); put it into a stewpan, and let it boil up. Mix four table-spoonfuls of corn- flour to a smooth thin paste with a little cold milk. Stir this into the boiling stock, let it boil, then draw it back, and let it simmer gently, stirring all the time, for seven minutes. Season the soup with pepper and salt, stir into it a pint of boiling cream or milk, and serve very hot. Time, with the stock already made, about an hour. Probable cost, if made with cream, and with stock costing 1s. per quart, 4s. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. White Soup (another way).—Take a knuckle of veal, two calf’s feet, two anchovies, a slice of ham, two heads of celery, three onions, a few sweet herbs, a few peppercorns, and one ounce of sweet almonds blanched and beat fine. Stew all over a slow fire with the requisite quantity of water, taking off the scum as it rises. Strain the liquor off, and when put upon the fire next day to boil add to it two ounces of vermicelli. Just before it is sent to table, put in half a pint of cream, and give it a gentle boil. White Soup (another way).—Into six quarts of water put a knuckle of veal, one large fowl cut into quarters, a pound of lean ham, half a pound of rice, two anchovies, a few peppercorns, two or three onions, a bundle of sweet herbs, and three or four heads of celery. Stew all together till the soup becomes suffi- ciently strong, then strain it through a hair sieve into an earthen pot; after standing all night, take off the fat, and pour the soup clear off into a stewpan, and put into it half a pound of almonds beat very smooth, boil a short time, and run the soup through a lawn sieve; then put in a pint of cream and the yolk of an egg. Serve hot. White Soup (a la Reine).—Roast a fowl, pick the flesh from the bones, free it from skin and sinew, mince a pound of it to a smooth paste, moistening with a quarter of a pint of stock and a slice of fresh butter. Have ready three-quarters of a pound of Carolina rice which has been boiled gently till tender in three pints of white stock. Put it into the mortar, and pound it with the other ingredients. Put tho pulp into a stewpan, moisten with two pints of white stock, and rub it through a fine sieve. Heat it again in the stewpan, and when it is quite hot season with pepper and ‘salt, stir into it half a pint of boiling cream, and serve immediately. The stock for this soup may be made by stewing the bones and trimmings of the fowl with a slice of lean veal, a large carrot, a few sticks of celery, and anonion. If liked, a dessert-spoonful of gelatine may be sub- stituted for the veal. Time, altogether, three to four hours. Probable cost, 5s. 10d. for this quantity, supposing the fowl to cost’ 3s. 6d. Sufficient for six or eight persons. White Soup, Economical.—Take a quart of nicely-Havoured stock made from the bones of veal: The liquor in which veal, mutton, or chickens have been boiled will answer excellently for the purpose. Before being used it must be simmered for an hour with the flavouring ingredients mentioned below. Let the stock, boil; then stir into it two table-spoonfuls of corn-flour which has been mixed to a smooth thin paste with a little cold milk. Draw it to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently, stirring all the time, for seven minutes. Season with pepper and salt. Put the yolk of an egg into the soup tureen, beat it WHI (1117) WHI with a table-spoonful of milk, and stir in gradu- ally half a pint of boiling milk; add the stock, and serve immediately. When veal bones or cold meat liquor are not at hand, take one pound of the scrag end of a neck of veal, and a slice of thin lean ham, or a piece of bacon-rind which has been scalded and scraped; put them into a stewpan with a small carrot, a turnip, one large onion, a blade of mace, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and four pepper- corns. Pour over the ingredients half a gallon of cold water, let the liquor boil, skim care- fully, then draw it back, and simmer gently till it is strong and good. Strain it, and when cold, free it entirely from fat, and it will be ready for being converted into white soup. Time to simmer the stock, three hours. Probable cost of the scrag end of the neck of veal, 7d. or 8d. per pound. Sufficient for five or six persons. White Soup, Family.—Take four pounds of the knuckle of veal and one pound of lean ham, put them into a stewpan, pour over them three quarts of water, and add anonion stuck with a clove, a bunch of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, half a bay-leaf, a small blade of mace, the thin rind of a quar- ter of a small lemon, and eight peppercorns. Let the liquor boil, skim carefully, draw it to the side, and simmer gently till the meat is tender. Take up the veal, and serve it separately with parsley sauce. Strain the liquor, and when cold, free it entirely from fat. When it is wanted, put it into a stewpan and let it boil; mix two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot to a smooth paste with three table- spoonfuls of cream, add half a pint of new milk, and stir this into the soup. Let it simmer for ten minutes, season with pepper and salt, and serve immediately. Time, two hours to stew the veal. Probable cost of veal, 5d. or 6d. per pound, Sufficient soup for ten or twelve persons. White Soup, Portable.—Procure as fine aleg of veal as can be got, remove the whole of the skin and fat, chop in pieces two dozen fowls’ feet, wash them well, put them into 4 large iron kettle with three gallons of water, stew until the meat is tender enough to separate, cover down close, and stew for eight hours; take a tea-cup and fill it with the soup; set it where it can quickly cool. If when cold it is hard enough to cut with a knife, strain through a sieve and remove all the fat, pour into cups the clear jelly, put them into a stewpan with boiling “ater until they are like glue; let them cool, and when nearly cold run a ring round them and turn them on a piece of new flannel; it will draw all the moisture out of them: turn them in seven hours, and continue until they are quite hard. Put them in tin canisters in a dry place. When any is re- quired, cut apiece about the size of a walnut, pour a pint of boiling water upon it, stir until the soup is dissolved, season with salt ; it will make a basin of strong broth. If for soup, steep some vermicelli in water, boil it, then to one cake of the soup pour one pint of water. If two quarts or four pints of soup are required, take four cakes of the soup, and when melted, set it over the fire and simmer, pour it into a soup-tureen,, add thin slices of bread very lightly toasted, and upon them the vermicelli; season to taste. White Stock for Sauces and Soups (to make a large quantity).—Take a large stew- pan perfectly tinned, butter it well, and line the bottom with thin slices of lean ham. Lay upon these some lean veal cut into pieces about two inches square, and also any bones and trimmings of veal or poultry there may be; an old hen will be a valuable addition. Pour in as much stock as will cover the meat, cover the stewpan, and boil the liquor quickly. till it is of the consistency of gum. Draw it back before it can acquire any colour, and fill the stewpan with common stock. Add a hand- ful of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, two onions, each stuck with three cloves, half a blade of mace, and a few peppercorns. Sim- mer the stock gently, carefully removing the scum as it rises, for about two hours, strain through a sieve, and put it aside till cold. Remove the fat from the top, and pour the liquor off free from sediment before using it. When filling up the stewpan it should be remembered that a qtart of stock should be allowed for each pound of veal and fowl com- bined. White Wine Jelly (Calf’s-foot Stock). —Take one quart of cold calf’s-foot stock entirely free from fat and sediment, and measured whilst hot. Put it into a saucepan with the thin rind of a small fresh lemon, the strained juice of two lemons, six ounces of roughly-pounded sugar, and the well-whisked whites and crushed shells of two fresh eggs. Mix all well together; then put the sauce- pan on a gentle fire, and whisk its contents thoroughly till the liquor rises high in the pan. Stop whisking at once, put the lid on the saucepan, and let it stand by the side of the fire for twenty minutes, to let the impurities harden and form a crust. Wring a jelly-bag out of boiling water, pour the contents of the saucepan into it, and without squeezing the bag let the liquor run through it. Tf it is not clear, pour it through a second and even a third time; but this should not be done unless it is necessary, as it wastes the jelly. When it is quite clear, stir into it from a quarter to three-quarters of a pint of white wine, according to taste. Pour the jelly into moulds which have been soaked in cold water, and let it stand in a cool place till stiff. If the jelly is to be served in glasses, pour it into a shallow dish, and when cold, take it up with a des- sert-spoon and put it into the glasses. If the calf’s-foot stock is not very firm, or if the weather is warm, soak from a quarter to half an ounce of gelatine or isinglass in two table- spoonfuls of cold water for an hour. Stir into this a cupful of boiling water, and add the liquor to the calf’s-foot stock. Time to boil the jelly, twenty minutes. Probable cost, ex- - elusive of the wine and without isinglass, 1s. 8d. Sufficient for a quart of jelly. White Wine Jelly made with Isin- glass or Gelatine.—Soak an ounce of isin- glass or gelatine in as much cold water as will cover it for an hour. Pour upon it three- WHIT (1118 ) WHI quarters of a pint of boiling water, and stir it’ until dissolved. Let it get cold; then add as much white wine as will make up the quan- tity toone quart. Sherry or marsala wine may be used, or a mixture of sherry and good raisin wine. Put it cold into a delicately clean sauce- pan with the thin rind and strained juice of two fresh lemons, a quarter of a pound of roughly- powdered sugar, and the well-whisked whites and crushed shélls of two eggs. Beat the mix- ture briskly for a minute or two, put it on the: fire, and whisk it vigorously until it rises high in the pan. Put the lid on, draw the pan back, in order that it: may form a crust. Lift it from the fire, and let it stand to settle for ten minutes. Wring a jelly-bag. out of ‘boiling- water, pour the contents of the'saucepan into it, and let it run through till clear. “Be careful not to squéeze' the jelly-bag, as this would make the jélly thick. Pour the jelly into a quart mould or into two pint moulds which have been soaked in cold water, and keep it in a cool place till wanted; turn it out upon a glass dish and serve. If it is to be'put into glasses, pour it into a shallow dish, let it remain until stiff, and before serving take it up in a dessert-spoon and put it into the glasses. Time to boil the jelly, a quarter of an hour. Proba- ble cost, 1s., exclusive of the wine. Sufficient for a quart of jelly. . 2 White Wine Negus.—Extract the juice from the peel of a lemon by rubbing loaf sugar upon it, or cut the peel’ of a lemon very thin’ and pound it in a mortar; cut two lemons into thin slices, add four glassfuls of calf’s-foot jelly in a liquid state, and small quantities of cinnamon, mace, cloves, and all- spice. Put the. whole into a jug, pour one quart of boiling water upon it, cover the jug closély, let it stand a. quarter of an hour, and then add a bottle of boiling white wine; grate half a nutmeg into it, stir it well together, and sweeten to taste. White Wine Sauce for Sole.—First boil a large sole in the white wine. To do this, cleanse and trim the sole, and put it into a shallow fish ‘kettle just large enough to hold it. Skin a small onion, and cut it into dice; sprinkle it over the fish, and add a little salt, a small bunch of sweet herbs, six peppercorns, and one clove. Pour over the sole as much French white wine as will cover it, and let it boil gently till done enough. Strain the liquor, put it into a small saucepan, place it by the side of the fire, and stir into it, gently and gradually, the yolk of an egg. As soon as it begins to thicken, take it from the fire and pour it over the fish. Time to boil the sole, according to size. Whiting.—The whiting, when fresh, is an excellent and delicate fish, light, tender, and easy of digestion. It may be caught on different parts of the coast all the year. round, but is to be had in perfection during the winter months. It does not keep well. Whitings are occasionally caught which weigh several pounds, but asa general rule they do not weigh more than a poundand a half. The best whitings in point of flavour are those which are about nine inches long. It is contrary to law to take the ‘fish when it'is less than six incheslong. Whit- ‘ings are occasionally boiled, but they are best when fried or broiled, It is usual before frying the fish to skin it, and fasten the tails through the eye-holes. Whiting (au Gratin).—Butter a baking- dish, and sprinkle over it some grated bread- crumbs anda little pepper and salt. Moisten these with a glass of white wine, and add a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup and a tea- spoonful of anchovy. Place the whiting in the dish, and strew all about it two tea-spoonfuls of finely-chopped mushrooms, and one of parsley and shallot. Cover the surface of the fish with ‘brown bread-crumbs, and put it in the oven till it is done enough. Take it up carefully with a fish slice, put 1t ona dish, and ‘serve with the sauce poured over it. [fnot sufficiently browned, w salamander or red-hot shovel may be, held over it fora minute or two. Sometimes the fish is filleted and prepared in this way. Time to bake the fish, half an hour. Probable cost of whitings, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one for each person. WHITING. ; ‘¢ Whiting (au Gratin).Another way.— Take two full-sized whitings, empty, scrape, cleanse, and wipe them, then make deep, inci- sions on each side with a sharp knife to the depth of a quarter of aninch, Butter a shallow dish thickly; sprinkle upon it a little pepper and salt and two table-spoonfuls of fine bread- raspings. Put in the whitings, sprinkle these with pepper and salt, pour’ gently over them one to two glassfuls of French light wine, and lay upon the fish two table-spoonfuls of finely-minced mushrooms mixed with a table- spoonful of parsley. Melt an ounce of butter, pour it over the fish, sprinkle two table-spoon- fuls of bread-raspings on the top, and bake the whitings in the oven. Send a cut lemon only to table with the fish. If it is preferred that the wine should not be used, three or four table- spoonfuls of pale veal gravy may be substituted for it. Time to bake the whitings, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. , Whiting (au Gratin).—Another way.— After having scaled, emptied, and washed the WHI ‘whitings,‘wipe them clean. ~Preserve the liver. ‘Take a silver dish if you have one, if not, a baking-pan. Rub the bottom over with butter, and sprinkle it with parsley and mushrooms chopped very fine, over which lay the whitings. Then take some rasps of ‘bread that are not burnt, and sprinkle them over ‘the whitings, with pepper, salt, and grated’ nutmeg; then again ‘dust them over with sweet herbs, namely, parsley and mushrooms, chopped very fine. (If shallots are approved of, you may add some.) Next lay small lumps of butter on the whit- ings; pour into the dish a glassful or two of white wine, a tea-spoonful of each of the follow- ing articles—essence of anchovies, cavice, chili, vinegar, Harvey's sauce, &c.—and ‘bake in a hot oven. The whitings will be done within a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, accord-, ing' to size. Serve with lemon-juice and no other sauce. This is a very palatable dish ; if there is: too much sauce, reduce it on a stove, as it must be very short, it being called “au gratin” because it is a short sauce. & _ Whiting (aux Fines Herbes).—Clean and skin the fish, and fasten it with its tail in its mouth. Place it on a dish, season with pepper and salt, and sprinkle over it a téa-spoonful of mixed sweet herbs in powder. Lay little pieces of butter here and there thickly upon it, cover with another dish, and bake in'a:moderately- heated oven till done enough. ' Turn it once or twice that it may be equally cooked, and serve with the sauce poured over it. ‘Time to bake the fish, twenty to thirty minutes.. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one whiting for each person. aa ".. Whiting, Baked.—Cut the heads off some full-sized whitings, empty: them, and cleanse them perfectly, opening them for the purpose as little as possible. Dry them, fold them in a cloth, and leave them for a quarter of an hour. Butter a baking-dish, and put them into it backs downwards, that the sauce may cover the thickest part’ of the flesh. ‘Sprinkle salt and cayenne upon them, and put round them half an ounce of butter kneaded with a salt-spoonful of flour, half a tea-spoonful of chili vinegar, a table-spoonful of port, and a small pinch of powdered mace for each fish. Lay a double fold of oiled paper upon the dish, and press it upon the fish. Put them in a -~--pentle oven, and bake till done enough. Take them up carefully with a fish slice, place them. on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve very hot. Time to bake the fish, twenty to _ thirty minutes. . Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. :<. Sufficient, one whiting for each person. _ Whiting, Boiled.— Whiting plainly boiled is sometimes recommended for invalids, as it is considered light and easy of digestion; but it is “insipid food, and this method of dressing the fish cannot be recommended. Large whiting should be chosen for boiling. Skin the fish, and skewer it with its tail in its mouth. Put it into boiling water slightly salted, clear off the scum frequently, and simmer the fish till the eyes start and the flesh will leave the bone. Take it up the’ moment it is done enough. Drain it, remove the skewer, put the whiting ona hot dish covered with a napkin, garnish ( 1119 ) WHI with parsley, and send melted butter, anchovy, shrimp, parsley, white, or Dutch sauce to table with ‘it; or, if preferred, merely mix a little ‘fresh butter lightly with the flakes of the fish. ‘Time to boil, from five to eight minutes, ace cording to size.’ Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. ‘Sufficient, one whiting for each person. Whiting, Broiled.—Wash the whiting in salted water, and be careful to preserve the liver, as it is by some considered a delicacy. Dry the fish thoroughly, brush it over with oil, and roll it in flour. Broil it over a clear bright fire. Serve on a hot dish, either with a little piece of butter placed upon the fish, or with melted butter or parsley sauce; or, better still, with a sauce prepared as follows :—Beat the yolk of an egg ina gallipot, and put with it two table-spoonfuls of water and two table- spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Put the galli- pot into a saucepan, and surround it with boil- ing water. Place it on the fire, stir briskly for a minute, and adda little pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, a tea-spoonful of chopped pars- ley, and half a tea-spoonful of flour which has been kneaded into two ounces of butter. Stir the mixture till it thickens, work in a few drops of strained lemon-juice, and serve. The sauce must not boil. Time to broil the fish, six to twelve minutes, according to size, If liked, the tarragon vinegar can be omitted, and the sauce flavoured entirely with lemon-juice, Whiting, Broiled (ancther way):— Empty the whitings, scale them, but preserve the liver, which is very delicate. When you shave washed and wiped them clean, slit the ‘back on both sides. Beat the yolk of an egg with a little salt and pepper, and rub some of it over the whitings with a brush. Then dip the fish into crumbs of bread, next into melted -butter, and then into crumbs of bread again. Broil them of a fine colour, and serve up. The sauce is to be sent up separately in a boat, whether it is anchovy sauce or melted butter. It is to be sent up separately, for if you were to pour the sauce over the fish, the whiting would not prove palatable, and the sauce would get too thick. ‘Whiting, Buckhorn. —In Cornwall, whitings which have been salted and dried are sold under the name of buckhorn. Whiting, Choosing of. — Whitings should be procured as fresh as possible. The goodness of the fish may be known by the firmness of its flesh, the brightness of its eyes, and the silvery hue of its appearance. Codlings and pollacks are frequently sold as whitings. The true whiting may be known by its having no barbel under its chin, by the under jaw being shorter than the upper one, and by its tail being even at the end. In point of flavour, those are the best whitings which are about nine inches long. Whiting, Curried.—Take three full-sized whitings. lean and skin the fish, fillet them neatly, and cut the fillets into pieces about three inches in length. Skin two onions and cut them into dice. Put them into » frying- pan with a little fat, place them on the fire, and turn them about till soft. When they WHI (1120 ) WHI have steamed a minute, put with them a sour apple chopped small. Rub the onion and the apple through a sieve. Place the pulp in a basin, and mix smoothly with it a table-spoon- ful of curry paste or powder, a table-spoonful of ground rice, and as much nicely-flavoured stock as will cover the fish. Put the sauce into a stewpan, and when it boils, put into it the fillets of whiting. Let them boil gently till done enough. Put them carefully on a dish; skim the sauce and pour it over them, and send rice boiled for curry to table on a separate dish. If liked, a little cream may be added to the sauce to enrich it, and if it is not sufficiently acid, a little lemon-juice may be stirred into it. Time, a few minutes to boil the whitings. Probable cost, 2s. persons. Whiting, Fillets of.—Empty and cleanse the fish, but do not skin them. Pass a knife from the tail to the head, and take off the flesh elose to the bone. Divide the fillets into halves crosswise, trim them neatly, fold them in a soft cloth, and leave them for awhile that they may be perfectly dried. Season with pepper and salt, sprinkle a little oil and vinegar over them, dip them in beaten white of egg, flour them well, and fry in hot fat till they are crisp and lightly browned. Drain them, press them in white blotting-paper to free them from fat, and place in a circle on a hot dish, and serve with melted butter, or with parsley, an- chovy, shrimp, ravigote, piquant, or oyster sauce. The last-named sauce, if made very thick and white, may be served in the centre of the fillets. Time to fry the fillets, five minuteg or more. Probable cost of whiting, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient, one small whiting for each person. Whiting, Fillets of (another way).— After having scaled, emptied, and washed the whitings, take up the fillets. on both sides without damaging the skin. Cut each fillet in two pieces of an equal size, and put them into an earthen pan with a few stalks of parsley, and a few shallots shredded, some salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon; stir the whole in the lemon-juice. Let it steep for about three hours. Then drain the fillets on a clean towel. Next beat the whites of two eggs, so that they may stick to the fillets. Mix some crumbs of bread and flour, dip the fillets into the whites of eggs and in the crumbs of bread and flour, and fry the whole just before they are wanted in very hot dripping, that they may be served up hot with white sharp sauce. Whiting Forcemeat.—Skin and fillet two or three whitings, scrape the flesh with a spoon, and rub it through a wire sieve. To twelve ounces of the fish thus prepared put half a pound of panada (see Panada) and six ounces of. fresh butter. Season the mixture with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, mix the ingredients thoroughly, and add gradually three whole eggs and the yolks of two. Poach a small quantity of the forcemeat to ascertain whether or not it is firm, yet light and delicately flavoured. If too stiff, mix a little-cream with it. Keep it on ice till required. Sufficient for four or five Pare them nicely - Whiting Forcemeat, Boudins of.— Prepare some whiting forcemeat according to the instructions already given. Roll out the forcemeat on the table in the form of oval cutlets two inches and a half long, one inch and a half wide, and one and three-quarters of an inch thick. Lay these on strips of oiled paper three-quarters of an inch larger than the cutlets. Make a hollow in the centre of each boudin the size of a farthing and three-quarters of an inch deep. Three-parts fill this with shrimps mussels, or oysters, cut into small dice an mixed in some very stiffly-reduced allemande sauce. Cover the sauce entirely with forcemeat. A quarter of an hour before the boudins are to be served, drop them. carefully tnto some hot but not boiling water slightly salted, and simmer gently till the forcemeat is set. Drain them, dish them in a circle on a hot dish, pour over them some allemande or ravigote sauce, and serve. By way of variety, instead of poaching the boudins, brush them over with egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and broil over a clear but not too fierce fire. Dish them in a circle, and serve with clear gravy flavoured with lemon-juice. Whiting, Fried.—Clean, skin, and dry the fish thoroughly in a soft cloth. If they are not perfectly dried, the egg and bread- crumbs will not adhere to them. Turn the tail of each one round and fasten it between the jaws by means of a small skewer. Brush the fish over with lightly-beaten egg, and cover with fine bread-crumbs mixed with a little flour. Fry in plenty of hot fat till they are done through and lightly browned; drain and dry them well, and serve on a dish covered with a napkin. Garnish with parsley. Send anchovy or shrimp sauce to table in a tureen. Small fried whitings are frequently used to garnish large fish, such as turbot and cod. The whiting, if very large, should be split open, crumbed, and fried flat, or they may be filleted, rolled, and fried. Time to fry small whitings, about six minutes. Probable cost, 4d. each. Sufficient, one for each person. Whiting, Fried, Economical. — ‘Empty, cleanse, scrape, and wipe the whitings without skinning them, and score them on each side to the depth of a quarter of an inch with a sharp knife. Dip the fish in milk, flour it well, and fry it in fat till crisp and lightly browned. Drain it, serve on a hot dish covered with a napkin, and send anchovy, shrimp, or ravigote sauce to table with it. Time, about six minutes to fry the fish. Whiting, Hot Pie of Fillets of (Caréme’s recipe).—Take the fillets of fifteen small whitings, wash and trim them without taking off the skins. Season highly with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Spread thinly over them a forcemeat of crayfish, with truffles of mush- rooms; roll up the fillet (beginning at the small end) quite round. "When thus prepared, spread some of. the same forcemeat at the bottom and sides of the pie; place upon it ten of the fillets pour upon them two spoonfuls of butter scarcely upright, which should thus cover the bottom; ~ WHI (1121 ) WHI melted, and place two more layers of the fillets (ten in each), and pour two or more spoonfuls of butter over them, with two bay-leaves added. Finish the pie in the usual way, and bake it an hourand a quarter; then pour off at the time of serving all the fat, and mask with a ragoit of earp-roes, crayfish-tails, mushrooms, and arti- + ¢hoke-bottoms, with a tomato sauce or an Espagnole with lemon-juice. “Whiting, Paupiettes of.—Fillet three or four full-sized whitings. Trim the fillets, season with pepper and salt, and spread upon each a little whiting forcemeat (see Whiting Forcemeat). Roll them round, tie securely with twine, and wrap them in strips of oiled paper. Put them in the oven, and bake until Fane enough. Remove the paper, place the paupiettes upright on a dish, put upon the top of each a turned mushroom or a bunch of parsley, pour a little lobster sauce round them, and serve. Time to bake the paupiettes, about half an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for five or six persons. Whiting Pollack.—This fish is not much prized as an article of food. It is com- mon near the shores of Britain and in the Baltic, and, is usually about the size of a had- dock.. The flesh is rather coarse. Whiting Pout.— The whiting pout, otherwise known as the bib, the brassy, the bleus, and the pout, is an excellent fish, which is not so highly esteemed as it deserves to be, _ possibly because it may be purchased in the places where it is abundant ata trifling cost. It possesses the singular power of inflating the membrane which cover the eyes and other parts of the head, which, when thus distended, have the appearance of bladders. It is probably from this that it derives its name of pout. It is a deeper and stouter fish than the whiting, and its flesh is firmer, drier, and less delicate. It seldom exceeds twelve inches in length. It should be eaten very fresh, and may be cooked in every way like whiting. It is improved by being salted for twelve hours, and still further improved by being dried in a current of air. _ To vary the flavour of the fish, slightly smoke it over a wood fire, then broil it. The great Soyer pronounced this fish to be quite equal to the red mullet. Whiting Pudding.—Take half a pound of the flesh of cold boiled whiting perfectly freed from skin and bone. Pound it to a smooth paste, soften by working gradually into it four ounces of fresh butter which has been beaten to cream, and add three ounces of baked flour, a pinch of grated lemon-rind, alittle pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and bind the mixture together with the yolks of four and the well-whisked whites of three eggs. Form the‘pudding to a bolster shape, roll it in oiled ‘paper, and tie it ina cloth. Fasten both ends securely, and steam it over fast-boiling water. Turn it out carefully, serve on a hot dish, and send good white sauce nicely flavoured With lemon-juice in a tureen to table with ii, Time to steam the pudding, one hour. 71—n.z. Probable cost, 1s., without the sauce. ficient for four or five persons. Whiting Quenelles.— Prepare somo whiting forcemeat, and keep it upon ice till required (see Whiting Forcemeat). . Take two spoons of the size it is intended the quenelles should be, and fill one of them with the forcemeat. Dip the other spoon into boil- ing water, remove the quenelle with it, and put it in a buttered saucepan. Repeat until there are as many quenelles as are desired. Pour over them some stock, and boil them gently till firm. Take up the quenelles, put them into a dish, pour a little fish sauce round them, and serve. Time to boil the quenelles, about ten minutes. Whiting, Sauce for.—Whitings may be served with plain melted butter, or with shrimp, anchovy, maitre d’hétel, piquant, tomato, ravi- gote, white, or Dutch sauce. Sometimes they are sent to table with no other accompani- ment than a cut lemon. Whiting, Stewed.— Skin, cleanse, and fillet three full-sized whitings, trim the fillets neatly, and divide them into halves. Season with pepper, salt, and grated lemon-rind, and sprinkle over them a pinch of powdered mixed sweet herbs. Dissolve a slice of fresh butter in a saucepan, put the fish into it, and let them simmer gently for ten minutes. Pour a glass of sherry over them, and add the strained juice of half a lemon. Let them heat three or four minutes. Take them up carefully, put them on a dish, and pour the sauce over them. Serve immediately. ‘Time, a quarter of an hour to simmer the fish. Probable cost, whitings, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for three or four persons. ' Whiting, Wholesomeness of.—Th whiting is very tender and delicate ; it possesses these qualities in a greater degree than any cther fish which our coasts afford. It is not a very nutritive food, but it produces no stimu- lating action on the system, and not being oily or viscid is easily digested, and therefore well suited to delicate stomachs, and to patients labouring under various complaints, in which the daily use of even the least exciting meat might prove injurious. Whiting with Caper Sauce.—Cleanse, scrape, and dry two full-sized whitings, and score them on both sides to the depth of a quarter of an inch with « sharp knife. Sea- son with pepper and salt, lay them in a buttered baking-dish, and pour over them a large wine-glassful of light wine. Put them in the oven, and bake gently till done enough. Make the third of a pint of melted butter, stir into it the liquor from the fish, and add two table-spoonfuls of bruised capers. Pour it over the fish, and serve. Time to bake the fish, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, whitings, 4d. to 8d.each. Sufficient for two or three persons. Whiting with Herbs.—Take off the heads and tails, and lay the fish in a stewpan rubbed well with butter, with a handful of mixed herbs chopped fine. Sprinkle with melted butter and a glassful of white wine. When Suf- : WHI ( 1122 ) half-boiled, turn the fish; when done enough, take them out. Add a piece of butter rolled in flour to the sauce, let it thicken, and serve the fish upon it with the juice of a lemon. Whiting with Sweet Herbs.—Cleaz, | wash, and dry five large whitings, fill the insides with quenelles of whiting, and lay them | in a kettle on a strainer well buttered; cover them with eight ounces of fresh butter in which you have mingled salt, pepper, and grated nut- meg sufficient for their seasoning. Add two pottles of chopped mushrooms, two spoonfuls ‘of chopped parsley, a small shallot chopped ‘and blanched, the juice of a lemon, and half a pint of chablis wine. Half an hour before serving, make them boil, moistening them from’ time to time with their liquor; then make them simmer gently with a little fire above and below. When ready to serve, drain and dish them; pour’ their liquor over them, and send to table. , Whiting with White-Wine Sauce. —Cleanse, scrape, and dry two full-sized whitings, and score them on both sides to athe depth of .a quarter of an inch with a sharp knife. Season with pepper and salt, and pour over them as much white wine as will cover them. Place them in the oven, and’ bake gently till done enough. Knead together in,a saucepan over the fire an ounce of butter, and an ounce of flour. ‘When the paste is quite - ‘smooth, moisten with the third of a pint, of -water, let it boil, and add the liquor from the baking-dish and a:table-spoonful of chopped parsley... Take it from the fire, stir inta, if until dissolved half an ounce of: fresh butter, , pour it over the fish, and.serve. Time to bake | the whitings, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 4d. to 8d. each. Sufficient for two or three persons. . : Whole-meal Bread.—Brown, composi- tion, or whole-flour bread is made from the ground but undressed wheat, and therefore’ cori- tains the bran as wellas the flour. Some years ago it was suggested that as the bran contained more nitrogenised matter than the flour, the whole meal must be more nutritious than the finer flour alone. But that opinion is now considerably modified, for while it is true.that . the whole meal (bran and fine flour) contains . chemically more nutritive matter than the fing flour alone, yet the gritty particles that are_ present in the former cause an unnatural irrita- tion in the alimentary canal, and lead to a quicker evacuation of the but partially, digested . and absorbed food. This explains why brown bread possesses laxative properties, and why | labourers fed on it consider that it makes them hungry soon again: they feel that it does, not last in the stomach, and consequently think there is little nourishment in it. i Whole-meal Bread, to Bake.— This bread,” says Miss Acton, “is composed of wheat ground into meal, and used without any portion ——even the bran—being taken from it; and it is highly recommended by some of the first scien: tific men of the present day as containing a larger’ amount of nourishment, and being more easy of digestion than that which is made with fine WHO flour only, because it is now ascertained that the bran (which was formerly considered as altogether unfit for food) contains in reality | more gluten, or nutriment of the best kind, than any other part of the corn; and it is stated by avery superior writer that it possesses also a peculiar kind of ferment which has the proporty of dissolving the bread or flour with which it is mixed, and rendering it more easily diges- tible in the stomach. He adds, ‘To this quality of bran, as well as to the nourishment it yields, are to be ascribed some of the wholesome quali- ties which many persons have recognised in wholé-meal bread.’ Now it will be seen that ‘very great advantages would attend the general ‘use of the wheat merely reduced by grinding to a proper state for being converted easily into bread, which is more strengthening in its nature than any other, and therefore of more value to those whose toil is heavy and exhaust- ing; and which, from its digestible character, is also well suited to persons of sedentary habits and to invalids. In the ordinary processes which the corn undergoes in separating: its various parts there is always considerable loss, ‘and the consumption of wheat in the country would be materially lessened if the loss were in a great measure avoided by the adoption of whole-meal bréad. There would soon be a per- ceptible difference if a firkin of it only. were consumed in every family which is at: present supplied entirely with that made with fine ‘Wheaten four. After a time it would be pre- ferred by the eaters generally to white bread, and the poorer classes of the people,’ who now ' ‘reject with disdain every form of brown bread, “would gradually lose this prejudice against it if they saw it commonly adopted for consump- ‘tion by the wealthy. To derive from whole- wmeal bread all the advantages which it will ‘undoubtedly yield, the following points should jbe observed: The corn should not be damped ‘before it is ground, and it should lie over for Some weeks, and be kept very dry after the grinding before it is converted into bread. Quite at first it will be well to mix a certain portion of flour with it for personswho are not in strong health, or who are- unaccustomed to ' eat brown bread, as it will otherwise occasion a little irritation in the stomach for a few days; but this is easily avoided by using it only in part’ for a time, and by diminishing at each baking the proportion of flour added to it. In making dough with the whole meal, it will be seen that it absorbs more liquid than flour does, | and requires rather more yeast to render it light, or a longer time to rise. It should not be ‘made very stiff, or it will be too dry after it is ‘baked, yet it should always be workable, and not stick to the hands. Jf well managed, its flavour will be peculiarly sweet and agrecable. it is prepared in precisely the same manner as white bread. ‘Whole meal, one gallon; good flour, one gallon; fresh German yeast, two ounces and a half, or well-washed beer yeast... two table-spoonfuls ; salt, four to six spoonfuls ve or one ounce to one and a half; warm watét,” | or milk and water, full three quarts. To rise } from one hour to one hour and a half the first time, or until it is evidently quite light ; the second time about an hour. To be wedi baked WHO ( 1123 ) WIG in a motérately-heated oven. Or, whole meal; seven pounds ; flour, three pounds and a. half; solid beer yeast, three large dessert-spoonfuls, or fresh German yeast, nearly two ounces; liquid, rather more than four pints and a quarter; salt as above. Or, whole meal, one gallon ; German yeast, one ounce and a quarter in summer, one ounce and a half in winter, or solid brewer's yeast, three dessert-spoonfuls; all else as in the foregoing recipe. It is to: be observed that about an ounce or a moderate- sized table-spoonful of salt to the gallon of flour is sufficient to remove any insipidity of flavour from bread, but a larger proportion is liked by many persons. Not only will a smaller quan- tity of yeast be required: in summer than: in very: cold weather for the fermentation of dough, but the liquid used in making it will require to be less warm than in -winter.. Ex- perienced breadmakers recommend that it should then be used at blood-heat (98°). « Wholesome-fare Pudding.—This fa- yourite bread-and-butter pudding may be thus made:—Cut some thin slices of bread and butter; butter a dish, and lay slices all over it. Strew on a few currants picked and washed clean, 2 little grated nutmeg and cinnamon pounded or in small pieces; then a row of bread and butter, then a few currants again, with the spice as before, and so on, till the dish is full. Sweeten some milk according to the size of the dish, and beat up three eggs, a little salt, and a little more nutmeg grated. Mix them all together, pour it over the bread, and bake it. Three rows of bread and butter are sufficient for a dish of a moderate size, as it | swells considerably. Slices of bread and beef- | suet chopped fine will answer the purpose of | bread and butter for a family pudding. Let it stand an hour after the milk has been: put to it before it is put into the oven. More eggs may be added, and cream used instead of milk, | if itis intended to be very rich. Some people put a little brandy into it. 4 Whortleberry.—This berry sometimes | goés'under the names of windberry, bartleberry, and bilberry. It grows wild in great abundance upon our heathy commons and uncultivated hills, It is also plentiful in the northern parts |- of.Europe. The fruit is seldom brought to market, but it is much relished by some persons in tarts or cream, and made into jellies. There are several varieties of whortleberry; the purple are rather larger than juniper-berries, and are covered with a fine blue or purple bloom, like the bloom of plums. They are seldom culti- “vated. This little berry makes an excellent jelly, being treated exactly in the same manner as currant jelly, to which, in flavour, it is far superior. It, however, requires a pound and a half of sugar to cach pint of juice. It will keep good two years, and if properly and carefully guide be better the second year than the first. ‘ sWhortleberry Jam (a German recipe): EMoisten the sugar with wine, and boil it well. HS four quarts of fruit allow two pounds of ugar and half an ounce of powdered cinnamon. When the sugar boils in transparent bubbles, throw.in the fruit, and keep stirring till it is of a ‘smooth:.consistency and-no.more thin juice collects on the top. Sprinkle: in the cinnamon, just before it is done. Widgeon.—The common widgeon is plenti- ful in Britain, during winter, The flesh is good for the table. The American widgeon forms also an esteemed food. It breeds chiefly in the northern parts of America, and is common in winter on the coasts,of the United States and in the rice-grounds. Widgeon, Gravy for.—-Put a:quarter of a pint'-of veal stock into..a saucepan with an inch of thin lemon-rind, ‘three leaves. -of .basil; and a thin slice of onion... Let the liquor boila few minutes, and: strain it. Put with: it; the clear juice of a lemon or of. a Seville orange, and add a glassful of port.and.a-little.salé and cayenne. Send it to table, very hot.. ; Or dissolve an ounce of fresh butter in a: saucepan, stir into it,the strained juice.of two lemons, and add a little salt and cayenne. Send the gravy to tableinatureen and_yery hot. Many cooks score the breast of the bird deeply, and pour the gravy over it; but this plan is not to be recommended, because many persons prefer eeleon without gravy. Sufficient for two irds. Widgeon, Gravy for (another way).— See Orange Gravy for Teal, Widgeons, &e. Widgeon, Hashed.—Cut the best parts of the widgeons into neat pieces. Place them on a dish, cover them over, and place them in a cool pantry till wanted. Put the carcases and trimmings of the birds into a small saueepan with the remains of the gravy that was served with them, or, failing this, with a little broth or water. Let them simmer gently till the liquor is strong and good, then rub the gravy with the little pieces of meat that have fallen from the bones through a sieve. Adda wine-plassful of sherry to the-sauce, and put it back into the saucepan: with the pieces that were put avide. Let -these simmer gently till they are warmed through. Of course they must not be allowed to boil. Arrange them on toast upon a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and serve. Time, about half an hour to simmer the pieces. ‘Widgeon, Roasted.—Rub the brebst of the widgeon with the liver till itis red. Truss it securely, and put it down before a elear fire. Flour it, and baste frequently till done. Serve on toast in a dish, and send the gravy to table with it. It is generally preferred that a widgeon should be underdressed. If liked, it may be stuffed with the liver. pounded anil mixed with a few bread-crumbs, a little pepper, galt, and grated lemon-rind, and bound together with the yolk of an egg. Time to roast the widgeon, a quarter of an hour; if liked well done, twenty to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 1s. each. Widgeon are seldom offered for sale. Sufficient, two for a dish. Wiggs.—Put half a pint of warm milk to three-quarters of a pound of fine flour; mix in it two or three spoonfuls of light yeast. Cover it up, and set it before the fire an hour, in order to make it rise. Workinto it four ounces cach of sugar and butter; make it into cakes, or , WIL ( 1124 ) WIL ‘“ wiggs,’” with as little flour as possible and a few caraway-seeds, and bake them quickly. Wilberforce Pudding. — Make batter the same as for a batter pudding. Butter a baking-dish, put in the batter; take some apples, rub them clean with a cloth, take out the stalk and blossom, and do not pare them or take out the cores. Put them in the batter, and bake in a quick oven. If the apples are pared before they are put in the pudding they mash among the batter as soon as they are hot, and make the pudding soft; but when baked whole the pudding is light, and eats very well. Use butter and sugar for sauce. Wild Boar.—This dish is prepared and dressed in the same way as pork. Generally the flesh of the wild boar is cut in fillets or cutlets, or in slices, which are laid in a stew- pan with butter, chives, parsley, thyme, basilic. ‘When the slices are half done take them off, and let them steep in their own gravy a day and a night; then fry them, and serve with pickled gherkins. WILD BOAR, Wild Boar Cutlets.—Take the under fillets of a wild boar; cut them into slices three-quarters of an inch thick and the shape‘ and size of a cutlet. Lay these in an earthen pan, cover with equal parts of vinegar and ite wine, and add a head of garlic and a little salt. Leave them for a couple of hours or longer; drain, and dry them with a soft cloth. Sprinkle over them a little finely- chopped parsley, thyme, and sage, and fry them in butter till done enough. Take them up, and pour a little of the marinade into the saucepan with the ‘butter. cutlets in a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve garnished with sliced gherkins. If pre- ferred, the cutlets, instead of being fried, may be larded and stewed in a very small quantity of rich gravy glazed, and served with Robert sauce. Time to fry the cutlets, fifteen to twenty minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. Wild Boar Ham.—Take a ham that has hung for ten days or more, singe off the bristles, wash the ham in lukewarm water, and saw off When it is quite hot, put the | the bone two inches below the knuckle. Put it in a marinade made of equal parts of vinegar and water, to which has been added a tumblor- ful of light wine, a bunch of sage, and a little salt and cayenne. Letit remain for eight days; drain it, and wipe it dry. Cover with paper that has been soaked in oil, put it down before a clear fire, and baste with the marinade every quarter of an hour. When done enough, take off the paper, and remove the rind. Brush the ham over with liquid glaze, and put it in the oven for a short time, or, if preferred, instead of glazing it, cover with bread-raspings. Put a paper frill round the knuckle, place the ham on a dish, and send venison sauce, or sauce made of the marinade boiled with a little good gravy and strained, served in a boat. If more convenient, the rind may be removed from the ham at first, and then it_ need lie in the marinade three days only. ‘Wild-boar hams are very good either when dressed fresh or after they have been cured and smoked. ‘Time to roast the ham, about three hours. Probable cost, uncertain. Wild Boar, Haunch of, with cnet Sauce.—The following recipe is given by M. Dubois in his “‘ Cosmopolitan Cookery :”—“ Get a quarter of young wild boar, fresh and without rind ; take out the thigh-bone, and saw off the thin end; salt, put it in a kitchen basin, pour over a quart of cold cooked “ marinade ’’ stock, let it macerate for two or three days, drain, wipe it on a cloth, and put it into a deep roast- ing-pan with lard. Cover it with greased paper, roast it in the oven for three-quarters of an hour, basting often with the fat; then add a few spoonfuls of its marinade, and cook half an_hour longer, basting with its own stock. When done withdraw the \roasting-pan from the oven, drain the quarter, and spread on its surface a ‘thick layer of black bread- crumbs rasped, dried, pounded, sifted, and mixed up with a little sugar and cinnamon, then moistened with red wine, but only just enough to give it a little consistenge. Sprinkle over the layer some dry bread-crumbs, baste with the fat of the roasting-pan, into which put the quarter back, and keep it at the entrance of the oven for twenty minutes, basting often. When ready to serve tuke it up, put « ruffle on the bone, dish up, and serve separately the following sauce :—Cherry sauce. Soak in water two handfuls of black dry cherries, as commonly sold in Germany—that, is, with the kernels; pound them in « mortar, dilute with a glassful of red wine, and pour the preparation into a sugar-pan. Add to ita piece of cinnamon, two cloves, a little salt, and a piece of lemon-zest. Let the preparation boil for two minutes, and thicken it with a little diluted potato-flour; draw the pan on the side of the fire, cover it, keep it there for a quarter of an bour, and pass it afterwards through a sieve. The cooked marinade men- tioned above is prepared thus:—First of all . some chopped roots and vegetables must be | fried with butter, these are moistened with | common vinegar, in quantity nearly sufficient ‘' to cover the meats intended to be marinaded. } When the vegetables are well saturated, mix { WIL (1125 ) WIL with the liquid a little salt, cloves, peppercorns and other spices. The marinade rel con- tinue cooking at least twenty-five minutes. Sometimes « little water is mixed with the vinegar, in order to mitigate its pungency. Wild Boar’s Head.—Under the Nor- man kings the wild boar’s head was considered a noble dish, worthy of the sovereign’s table. This, we are told, was brought to the king’s table with the trumpeters sounding their trumpets before it in procession. “‘ For,’’ says Holinshed, “upon the day of coronation (of young Henry) King Henry II., his father, served him at table, bringing up the bore’s head with trumpets afore it, according to the ancient manner.” Wild Boar’s Head (superlative re- cipe)—Remove the hair, snout, and bones from a boar’s head, and take off the ears. Sprinkle a little salt upon it, and put it into a meat pickle for three or four hours. Meantime, take the white part of the flesh of four young rabbits, and an equal weight of tongue, boiled fat bacon, and peeled truffles. Cut all into one- inch dice, and mix thoroughly. ‘Take the remainder of the rabbit flesh free from skin and gristle, and make forcemeat of it, by chop- ping it up with four pounds of veal and four pounds of fat bacon, and seasoning it rather highly. Drain the head, wipe it with a soft cloth, sprinkle mixed spices upon it without salt, and cover with layers of forcemeat, intermixed with the truffles, rabbit, &c. Form the head into shape, wrap it in a cloth, and put it into a stewpan. Pour over it some good nicely-flavoured stock to which a bottle of madeira or sherry has been added, and let it stew gently till done enough. Take it up, drain ‘it, remove the cloth, wrap the head in a fresh cloth, and, beginning at the snout, ‘bind it round and round with tape. Leave it until quite cold, remove the tape and the cloth, put it in the oven for a minute, and wipe the fat from the surface. Trim the back part of the head neatly. Fasten the ears in their places with small skewers; they should, mean- time, have been boiled separately, but not long Yenough to cause them to lose their shape. Hide the skewers with lard and mutton suet, and rub the head all over till it is black and shiny with a little lard mixed with some very clean soot. Cut out a piece of the skin in the -shape’ of a shield between the eyes, cover the place with lard, and decorate it with a crest or a monogram, or even a few flowers. Stick the tusks, remodelled with fat, in their places, and. fill the eyes with white of egg and a little piece of beetroot. Surround the head with a wreath of flowers, place it on a dish covered with a napkin, or on a stand, garnish with jelly, and serve. The skin should be removed before the -head is carved. Time to boil the head, five hours or more. Probable cost, very uncertain. Wild Boar, To give Pork the Fla- vour of.— Steep the pork with cloves, garlic, bay-leaf, shallots, juniper-berries, thyme, mint, and vinegar. Wild Duck, Fillets of, with Truffles.—Fry the slices of duck in butter till they are lightly browned. Put them intoa clean saucepan, pour the sauce over, and add truffles pared and cut into slices. Let them simmer very gently for five minutes, stir a table- sponful of lemon-juice into the gravy, and let it simmer five minutes longer. ‘Take the slices of duck up carefully, arrange them neatly on a dish, pour the gravy round them, and serve very hot. Time, about ten minutes to simmer the fillets in the sauce. Probable cost of wild ducks, 48. to 5s. per pair. Sufficient for a dish. Wild Duck, Fillets of, with Truffles (another way).—Clean two wild ducks, and cut off the flesh from the breasts and sides in neat slices. Put the carcases and giblets of the birds into a saucepan with a thick slice of fresh butter rolled in flour, and add half a dozen mushrooms and two shallots finely minced, the parings of two ounces of truffles, and a little salt, cayenne, and pounded mace. Shake the saucepan over the fire for a few minutes. Pour in a gill of good stock, stew the sauce till strong and well-flavoured, then add a large glass of claret. Fry the slices of duck in butter; _ drain and simmer gently in the sauce till tender. WILD DUCK. Wild Duck, Roast.—The breast is the dainty morsel. Stuff the duck with crumb of bread soaked in port or claret. Truss it securely, rub it over with the liver, flour it, put it down to a clear brisk fire, and baste constantly. Let the spit turn very rapidly. When the bird is sufficiently roasted (and it is generally pre- ferred underdressed), take it up, put it on a dish, without gravy, with an uncut lemon on either side of it, and with wild duck gravy in a tureen. The carver will frequently cut a lemon in halves, put salt on one side and cayenne on the other, then score the breast of the duck deeply, squeeze the two lemons together over it, and pour a glassful of port upon it. Time to roast the duck, fifteen to twenty-five minutes. Probable cost, 48. to 5s. per pair. Wild Ducks. — Notwithstanding the slightly fishy flavour of the flesh, wild duck is highly esteemed by epicures. It is trussed like a tame duck, with the feet left on and turned close to the body. It is offen said that WwiL (1126 ) WIL a wild duck should be allowed only to fly through a hot kitchen before it is sent to table; and though this is scarcely the case, still the pird is considered to be in perfection only when it-is crisp and brown on the surface, and so much underdone that the gravy. flows into the dish when it is cut. Usually the breast of the bird is the only part cared for. A wild duck should be roasted: before a brisk fire, and it should-be basted constantly. The duck is to be preferred to the drake, though the latter | often fetches the higher price. Wild Ducks (American fashiony.—Pluck and draw the ducks, wipe the inside with a cloth, and' sprinkle salt and pepper over them inside and.out. Fill them with crumb of bread which has been thickly buttered and soaked in. .hot water till quite soft. Truss them securely, put them down to a clear fire, and baste them for ten minutes with half a pint of slightly-salted water in which a sliced onion has been soaked. This is to remove the un-. pleasant fishy flavour from the birds. When it has been used, throw the onion water away, and in its place put half a pint of hot water. Baste the birds with a little butter, dredge flour over them, and baste with the water in the pan. When they are done enough, take them up, and serve with gravy which has been made by stewing the giblets, then straining the liquor, thickening it with brown thickening, and stirring into it a table-spoonful of black- currant jelly, a glassful of port, and a little salt and cayenne. Time to roast the ducks, twenty to thirty minutes. Wild Ducks, Fillets of.—As the breast only of the wild duck is usually eaten at table, the fillets from each side of the breast and the slices from the sides are frequently cut off after the birds are roasted, and served on toast with orange gravy (see Orange Sauce, for Ducks and Wild Fowls) poured over them. When served in this way the bird is underdressed. Wild Ducks, Fillets of, with Olives or Celery.—Roast three or four wild ducks, and cut off the fillets according to the recipe already given. Score the skin, dish the fillets in a circle, and put into the centre either some stewed celery (see Celery, Stewed) or some stoned olives. Send clear brown gravy to table ina tureen, and serve. Time to roast the ducks, ten to. fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 48. to 5s. per pair. Sufficient for a dish. Wild Ducks, Fillets of, with Poivrade Sauce.—Roast three or four wild ducks, and cut off the fillets according to the recipe already given (see Wild Ducks, Fillets of). Score the skin, dish the fillets in a circle, and pour over them a little poivrade sauce. Serve, and send. additional sauce to table in a tureen (see Poivrade Sauce). Time to roast the ducks, ten to fifteen minutes. Probable cost, 4s. to 5s. per pair. Sufficient for a dish. Wild Ducks, Roasted (Polish fashion). —Take two wild ducks, singe them, wash them inwardly, truss, put them in u kitchen basin, pour .over a little cooked marinade, and let them macerate for five or six hours. At the end of that time lay them in a-roasting-pan with the marinade; cover them with buttered paper, and cook them, basting often. When half done, add to their cooking-stock two gills of good thick sour cream, and finish cooking gently basting from time to time. Just be- fore serving, draw, divest them of the string, and dish them up. Mix a little gravy with their cooking-stock, reduce the liquid, stirring till it is thickened like'a sauce, then pour it over the birds. Wild Fowl (Hunter's fashion).—Roast the fowls before a clear fire, baste liberally, and take them up whilst they are still decidedly underdressed. Send them to table very hot with rich brown gravy ina tureen. Put near the carver a silver dish which can be placed over a spirit lamp. Put into this dish a spoon- ful of Harvey, two glassfuls of port, two glass- fuls of gravy, the strained juice of a lemon, and a little salt and cayenne. Mix the sauce thoroughly, cut the fillets from the breast of the fowls, and the slices from the sides; put these into the gravy. Heat the whole over the spirit lamp, and serve very hot. Time, a minute or two to heat the fillets in the sauce. Our American cousins dissolve a little black- currant jelly in the sauce thus prepared for wild fowl. Probable cost of wild fowl, very uncertain. : Wild Fowl, Fillets of, with Bigarade Sauce.—Roast three or four wild fowls, take them up, and cut the flesh off each side of the breast and from the sides under the wings. Score the skin, and dish the fillets in a circle ) with a little bigarade sauce poured over them, and more sent to table in a tureen. This sauce may be made as follows:—Take the yellow rind of two oranges without any of the white part, cut it into thin shreds, blanch it in boiling _ water for two minutes, drain it, and put it into an earthenware jar with the strained juice of the lemons. Add a pinch of cayenne and a tea-cupful of good brown gravy. Put. the jar into a saucepan, surround it with boiling water, set it on the fire, and keep the water boiling till the sauce is very hot. Stir it all the time; add a small glassful of port to it, and it will be ready for serving. The wine may be omitted. Time, two minutes to boil the sauce. Wild Fowl, Plucking of.—It is rather a tedious affair to dispossess the generality of wild fowl of the closely-adhesive down which is peculiar to them. ‘The most effectual plan to adopt is to immerse the birds, when divested of their feathers, in scalding water. Allow them to remain therein for about two minutes. Have at hand some finely-powdered resin, and by the application of the hand with the use of the latter rubbed over the fowl the whole of the down will be removed. Wild Fowl, Roast.—It is an old and true figurative saying that a wild duck to be pro- perly roasted should only walk through the kitchen, that the widgeon should run gently through, but that the teal should scamper through. All these birds must therefore be very little done. If they are of a kind that is usually impregnated with a fishy flavour, which is most inveterate when they are not fat, eae ae ~ Aa Se WIL (1127) x WIL they should be soaked in and rubbed with a little tarragon vinegar a few hours prior to being put upon the spit. The sauce for wild ‘owl is served, not in the dish, but in a tureen. It is thus made—Put into a saucepan a quarter of a pint of port wine, the same quantity of meat gravy, two or three shallots, a bit of mace, pepper and salt to your taste, and a dash of cayenne. squeeze into it the juice of half a lemon, and thicken it with buttor rolled in flour. ‘ Wild Fowl, Salmi of.—Cut off the legs, wings, breast, and rump of the wild goose, duck, widgeon, or teal, and put them by for the salmi. The head, neck, back, and giblets, if they are preserved, constitute the parings. Cut four shallots into several pieces, and put them into a very clean stewpan. Ifa plain salmi is wanted it will be necessary only to add a slice of butter, a bay leaf, a small piece of mace, and half a dozen pepper-corns. Let the whole fry, until the ingredients are lightly coloured ; then dredge in a third of a spoonful of flour, and continue to fry until,the flour is brown; but be careful that the other ingredients do not burn. Now put in a large glass of red wine and double that quantity of veal gravy, together with the parings of the wild fowl. Season with pepper and salt, and let the whole simmer gently during an hour and a half. Then strain the gravy through a hair-sieve over the meat for the salmi, which must be ready in another stewpan. Stand this near the fire to get gra- dually and slowly hot through, but be especially careful that it does not boil. Give it a dash of cayenne pepper. When about to dish it up, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, Wild Fowl, Sauce for (see Orange Sauce for Ducks and Wild Fowl). . Wild Fowl, Sauces for.—No. 1. Mix the juice of half a lemon with a glassful of port or claret, three shallots sliced, a table-spoonful’ of Harvey, and a pinch of cayenne. Stir the sauce over the fire for five minutes, and strain it into a tureen: serve very hot. No. 2. Put into a tureen a tea-spoonful of essence of an- chovies, a tea-spoonful of mixed mustard, a table- spoonful of ketchup, a glassful of claret, and a pinch of cayenne; mix thoroughly, and serve. No. 3. Slice three shallots, and put them into a small saucepan with two table-spoonfuls of clear gravy, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and six peppercorns. Simmer the liquor till it is strong and good, strain it, add a little salt, and serve hot or cold. No. 4. Puta tea-cupful of gravy into a saucepan with a shallot or small onion finely minced, an inch of thin lemon-rind, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a pinch of, ¢ayenne. Simmer for ten minutes, strain the gravy, add a wine-glassful of port or claret, and serve very hot. A table-spoonful of Harvey’s sauce or of mushroom ketchup may be added if approved. (See also Orange Sauce for Ducks and Wild Fowl.) Wild Fowl, Truffled Sauté of.—Cut up the raw birds, and put the heads, necks, an giblets into a stewpan with a bit of lean ham, a shcep’s melt, four shallots, half a dozen mush-. rvoms chopped fine, the parings of two or three Let it simmer ten minutes, then, ounces of truffles, a bunch of herbs consisting of parsley-root, one bay-leaf, and a very small sprig of thyme, a little bit of mace, four grains of allspice, and a small lump of butter. Let these all fry together until the ham is brown; after which pour in half a pint of port wine and half that quantity of broth. ‘Stow and reduce this during two heurs; then season and strain it. Now put the limbs of the birds into a stewpan with a pretty large lump of fresh butter ; let them fry a short time, and dredge into them half a table-spoonful of flour. When the meat is sejzed on all sides, but without being of a deep brown, pour the sauce into it, adding at the same time the truffles cut into slices, the parings of which were put into the sauce. Let ‘the whole simmer very gently during ten ‘minutes, then squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and serve up on a very hot dish. Wilhelm’s Cherry Sauce (a German ‘recipe).—Having bruised three pints of cherries :in a small mortar, boil them with a pint of wine and water; strain them through a sieve, -and again boil with lemon-peel, sugar, cinna~- mon, and bruised cloves. Add a level spoonful of potato-flour or starch previously mixed smooth with a little cold water, and continue stirring till the sauce is made. This sauce is well suited for puddings and cold things. We might have removed the stones and boiled them in their unbroken state, then stirring in peach- water and half a spoonful of potato-flour. Williams’s Pudding Sauce (a United States’ recipe).—Bruise a stick of cinnamon, set it over the fire in a saucepan with just as much water as will cover it; give it a boil, and then put in a couple of table-spoonfuls of fine sugar pounded, a quarter of a pint of white wine, a roll of thinly-pared lemon-peel, and a -bay-leaf; boil all gently together, strain, and ‘send it up hot. Wiltshire Method of Curing Bacon. —Cut up a moderate-sized hog, sprinkle salt upon the flitches, and let the blood drain from them for twenty-four hours. Mix tho- roughly four pounds of common salt with one pound and a half of brown sugar, one pound and a half of bay-salt, and six ounces of salt- petre. Rub this mixture into the flitches and. turn, and rub them in every part each day for amonth. Hang them up to dry; then smoke them for ten days. Wiltshire Pudding.—Whisk three eggs in a bowl, and mix with them a pint of milk, a pinch of salt, and as much flour as will make a thick batter. Beat the mixture for some’ minutes, then stir in gently half a pint of picked red currants and a quarter of a pint of ripe rasp- berries. If more convenient, the raspberries may be omitted. Tie the pudding in a cloth, and plunge it into fast-boiling water; keep it boiling quickly till done enough. Turn it out carefully upon a dish, and cut it into slices three- quarters of an inch thick. Keep these in their original position. Puta little butter and brown sugar between the slices, and serve the pudding hot with sauce ina tureen. Time to boil the, pudding, two hours. Probable cost, 10d. or 1s. Sufficient for five or six persons. WIN ( 1128 ) WIN f Windberry.—This is another name for the whortleberry (which see). Windermere Ketchup.—Procure the largest mushrooms, with broad flaps and red gills, gathered before they are discoloured by the sun. Wipe them with a clean cloth, and break them into an earthen pan. Upon every three handfuls of mushrooms put a handful of salt, so as to form layers, until all the mush- rooms are in the pan. Stir them well with a stick or a wooden spoon three or four times a day until the mushrooms are dissolved, which process may be hastened by pressing the several lumps. Now throw the whole into a boiler, and set it over a slow fire, when it must simmer until the whole is perfectly liquescent. Strain the hot liquid through a hair-sieve, then boil it gently again with some allspice, pepper- corns, horseradish, a few shallots, and two or three bay-leaves. After it has simmered some time, and all the dark scum is taken from it, strain it into a large bottle or jar, which, when the ketchup is quite cold, must be well corked, and a bladder tied over the cork. At the expiration of three months boil it again with a few peppercorns, some fresh allspice, a' stick of horseradish, a few more shallots, and two bay- leaves. Let it simmer half an hour after it has boiled up, then strain it into small bottles ; when the ketchup is quite cold, cork the bottles, tie a bladder over the corks, and cover the bladder with scaling-wax. It will then keep any length of time. Windmill Pancakes.—These are pink pancakes prepared as follows:—Boil a large red beetroot until it is very tender; then peel it, cut it into thin slices, and pound it to a pulp in a marble mortar. Add the yolks of five eggs, two table-spoonfuls of flour, four of cream, plenty of powdered loaf sugar, half of a nut- meg grated, and a wine-glassful of brandy. Rub the whole into a batter, and fry the pan- cakes with lard. Serve them up hot, garnished with green sweetmeats. Windsor Beans (see Beans, Broad or Windsor). Windsor Beans (a la Poulette).—Wind- sor beans are to be served at a good table only when very young and fresh-gathered. Boil them in salt and water. When nearly done drain them, and stew them in a little sauce tournée with a bunch of parsley and green onions, a little savory chopped very fine, and a small lump of sugar. When the beans are sufficiently reduced, throw in a thickening made of the yolks of two eggs and a little thick cream. Send them up in a short sauce, and properly seasoned. Windsor Beans, Ham with (see Ham with Windsor Beans). Windsor Beans (preserved in tins).— Procure, as a pattern, from an Italian ware- house a tin box, pint size, with its cover. Get as many similar boxes made as will be required. Gather the Windsor beans when they are the size of green peas; put them into the tins with a tea-spoonful of salt, a sprig of green winter savory, and half a gill of water. Let a tinman solder down the covers; then put the tins into a large stewpan. Cover with boiling water, and boil quickly for half an hour. Take them from the fire, and when cold examine them care- fully. Solder again any parts that leak, and keep them in a cool place. When the beans are to be used, open the tin, and turn its contents, liquor and all, into a saucepan with a sprig of parsley and a pinch of powdered white sugar. When the beans are hot, strain off the liquor, put the vegetables into a tureen with a small piece of butter, and serve. Time to boil the beans in the tins, half an hour. Windsor or Broad Beans,—These beans are great favourites with many persons, but they are not good unless they are young and freshly gathered. They are in season in July and August. To boil them, first shell them, then put them into slightly-salted and fast-boiling water. When tender, drain them, dish them quickly, and serve with parsley sauce. They are the usual accompaniment to boiled bacon. They should be boiled separately. Two or three recipes for dressing these beans are given under Beans, Broad or Windsor. Windsor Pancakes Windsor). Windsor Pies of Meat, Poultry, or Game.—Take a pound of lean undressed mutton from the loin or leg, or an equal quan- tity of any other kind of meat, poultry, or game. Cut it into dice, season with pepper, salt, chopped mushrooms, finely-shred parsley, and minced shallot, and moisten with good gravy. Line some patty-pans with pastry, three-parts fill them with the mixture, cover them with pastry, and press the edges securely together. Make a little slit in the centre of each patty, and ornament it. Brush the patties over with egg, and bake in a well-heated oven. ‘When done enough, dish them on a napkin, and serve. Time to bake the patties, about twenty minutes, Sufficient, a dozen for a dish. Windsor Pudding.—Pare and core half a dozen baking apples, and boil or bake them till quite soft. Beat them to a smooth pulp, and with them an ounce of best Carolina rice boiled in milk till it is tender, an ounce of powdered white sugar, a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice, and a ‘pinch of grated lemon-rind. Whisk the whites of four eggs to snow, stir them into the pudding mixture, and beat it again till it is very light. Dip a pudding-mould into boiling water, take it out, and whilst it is hot pour the mixture into it; cover it, put it into a large pan of boiling water, and keep it boiling till the white of the egg is firm. Turn it out, and pour round it a custard made with the yolks of the eggs. Serve immediately. : Windsor Syllabub. — Put a pint of sherry into 4 china bowl, sweeten it, and flavour with grated nutmeg. Pour upon it a pint and a half of milk, stir briskly, and serve the syllabub frothed. Windsor Veal Pie.—Fill a dish with alternate layers of lean veal cut in slices half an inch thick and thin slices of lean ham,. and season each layer with powdered mace and white pepper. Place a dish with a weight over (see Pancakes, WIN the meat, and press it for half an hour. Pour upon it as much strong veal gravy that will jelly when cold as will cover it, and add a slice of fresh butter. Cover the dish with good pastry, and bake till done enough. Serve cold. Time to bake a moderate-sized pie, one hour and a half. Probable cost, fillet of veal, 1s, a pound. ‘Wine.—The term wine is more strictly and specially applied to express the fermented juice of the grape, although it is generally used to denote that of any sub-acid fruit. The presence of tartar is, perhaps, the circumstance by which the grape is most strongly distinguished from all the other sub-acid fruits that have been applied to the purpose of wine-making. The juice of the grape moreover contains within itself all the principles essential to vinification, in such a proportion and state of balance as to enable it at once to undergoa regular and com- plete fermentation, whereas the juices of other fruits require artificial additions for this pur- pose; and the scientific application and the adjustment of these means constitute the art of making wines. Wine, Apricot.—Take ten gallons of river-water and boil it for half an hour; then set it to cool in a clean vessel. Take forty- five pounds of ripe apricots, cut them into thick slices, and put them with the juice into the water, adding twenty-five pounds of the best loaf sugar. Stir well, cover closely, and leave till the following day; then boil the fruit and liquid together, stir in the whites of eight eggs well beaten, and take off the scum as it rises. "When the liquor is clear and the fruit reduced to a pulp, press, strain through a fine sieve into a cooler, add the broken stones, and stir well. Spread good yeast on both sides of a toast, and when the liquor is at the proper warmth work it well two days; strain it through a jelly-bag into the cask, put on the bung lightly, and let it work _ over, keeping the cask full. When it has done . fermenting, add two quarts of French brandy ‘and two ounces of white sugar-candy. Put in the bung, fasten it well, keep the liquor for twelve months, and then bottle it. It must re- main a year or more in bottle, for apricot wine is a very rich wine, and isimproved greatly by age. Wine, Beetroot, Red. — Bruise six quarts of ripe sloes (the fruit of the black thorn) in a stone mortar, breaking the stones, boil them twenty minutes in two quarts of soft water, strain the liquor, and pour if into a stone jar. Scrub well with a soft brush and was thirty pounds of purple beetroots, but on no account cut or break the skins, and boil them slowly till tender. When cold, peel and slice them into a tub, pour to them the sloe liquor, cover them up, and the following day add the rinds of three lemons and four Seville oranges, and twelve pounds of Smyrna raisins cut in halves. Boil twenty-six pounds of strong moist sugar with nine gallons and a half of soft water three-quarters of an hour, skimming it well, and pour it hot into the tub upon the sliced beetroots, &c. ; stir well, and when lukewarm work it well with eight table- spoonfuls of strong yeast, cover it up, and let it (1129 ) WIN remain three days; then strain the liquor, and filter it into your cask, filling to the bung. Let it work out, and when the fermentation is over, put to the wine six ounces of sugar-candy and a quart of French brandy. Then, stop it up for a month, rack it off, filter the lees, and put all again into the cask with an ounce of the best isinglass dissolved, and two ounces of bitter almonds blanched and slit, Secure the bung, and let the wine stand eighteen months; then bottle it, seal the corks, and keep it a year longer. This is a nice light wine, and has fre- quently been introduced as claret. It improves greatly with age. . Wine, Birch.—A wine used to be made from the sap of the birch-tree, though now it is scarcely known. The sap contains so much saccharine matter as to be fermented; it is to be obtained in the month of March, when it begins to ascend, by boring a hole in each tree, about a foot from the ground, large enough to admit a faucet which is to be inserted. The sap will flow for several days into a vessel placed to receive it, without injury to the tree. Having obtained as much as is necessary, the hole should be stopped with a peg. Toa gallon of this sap add a quart of honey or two pounds and a half of sugar, and boil them together, stirring the whole; add also two ounces of hops for every nine gallons, a few cloves, and a rind or two of lemons. Ferment this with yeast, transfer it to the cask, refine with isinglass, and proceed as in making other British wines. In about two months the wine may be bottled, and in two months more it will be fit for use. It will im- prove by keeping. Wine Biscuits.—Dry one pound of flour and sift it, then rub into it a quarter of a pound of butter, and add three heaped table-spoonfuls of powdered white sugar, one well-beaten egg, and as much thick cream as will make a stiff paste. Roll it out very thin, stamp it into shapes with the top of a wine-glass, and bake the biscuits on tins in a well-heated oven. A few currants or caraways may be added if liked, Time to bake the biscuits, a quarter of an hour. Probable cost, 10d. for this quantity. Wine Biscuits (another way).—See Ladies Wine Biscuits. Wine, Bitter.—Take a quart each of red and green camomile, and bruise them with a pint of wormwood, all being picked nicely from the stalks; lay them in a vessel, and add two ounces of camomile flowers, a handful of rose- mary, and an ounce of gentian root. Boil four gallons of soft water with ten pounds of good loaf sugar, two ounces of ginger bruised, and the whites of four eggs well beaten, half an hour, skimming till quite clear. Pour the liquor scalding on the herbs, cover up close, and let them infuse for four days. At the end of that time warm a part of the liquor, mix it with the rest, and work it with yeast; strain it into a small cask, and on fermentation ceasing, add an ounce of dissolved isinglass and a pint of brandy; stop up the bung, and keep it for nine months; then bottle in pint bottles, seal the corks, and keep for six months longer. WIN (1130 ) WIN Wine, Blackberry.—To make an excel- lent strong blackberry wine, proceed as follows: Take forty-five quarts of ripe blackberries well picked and pressed, and mix them with ten pounds of good honey and twenty-six pounds of strong bright. moist sugar. Boil with twelve gallons of soft water and the whites of twelve eggs well beaten, till the liquor is reduced to ten gallons, skimming it till it is perfectly clear. Strain the liquor into a tub, and let it stand till the following day; then pour it clear of the lees and boil it again for three-quarters of an hour, adding the lees, filtered twice, and two ounces of isinglass dissolved in a quart of water. Skim well, and put in two ounces of Jamaica pepper, two ounces of cloves, and two ounces of best ginger, all bruised and tied loosely in a piece of muslin. Put into your cooler the thin rinds of six Seville oranges, and a pint of Jemon-juice; strain the liquor upon them, stir well, and when cool enough work it with a pint of fresh yeast stirred well into a gallon of the liquor. Cover close, and let it work for four or five days, removing the top, scum and stirring twice daily; then strain, and filter it into the cask, put in the bung tightly, keep the cask well filled up, and when it has ceased fer- menting, let a day elapse, and add two quarts of French brandy and an ounce and a half of isinglass dissolved in a little water and mixed with a gallon of the wine, ten minutes, an ounce of bitter almonds blanched and slit, and six ounces of sugar-candy broken small. Secure the bung, paste strong white paper or coarse linen over it, and place plenty of sand over all, wetted a little. Keep the wine in a cool cellar for two years, then bottle it, for it is certain to be fine, by means of the filterings, which are quite necessary to this as well as to all rasp- berry and elder wine. Seal the corks, and keep it in, the bottles before using for two years. If allowed to lie for a longer time it will still improve, and will be found a beautiful wine. Wine Browning for Flavouring and Colouring Gravies.—Dissolve an ounce of fresh butter in a small saucepan, and stir into it a quarter of a pound of powdered white sugar. As soon as it begins to colour draw it to the side, and stir into it very gradually a pint of good port. Pour it into a fresh saucepan, and put with it six cloves, twelve peppercorns, three minced shallots, one blade of mace, one inch of stick cinnamon, the thin rind of a lemon, a wine-glassful of mush- room ketchup, and a little salt. Stir the mix- ture over a gentle fire for ten minutes, strain it into a basin, let it get cold, skim it, and bottle foruse. Time, ten minutes to simmer the sauce. Sufficient, a few drops will pleasantly flavour and colour half a pint of gravy. Wine Cakes (a Danish recipe).—Take three-quarters of a pound of flour, half a pound of fresh butter, half a pound of sugar, and a gill of white wine; mix these ingredients with the yolks of two eggs, knead all well, and roll it out. Cut with a. glass into small cakes; brush these over with white of egg, strew them with sugar-almonds or pounded cinnamon, and bake of a light colour. Wine Caudel.—Beat with a whisk the white of one egg and the yolks of eight. Stir into it a bottle of white wine, « pint of water, the peel of a lemon, and half a pound of lump sugar. Set the mixture on the fire, and keep stirring it. Remove it as soon as it boils. Pour the caudel: into a bowl or small glasses. It should be eaten with sweet biscuit. Wine, Cherry (a French recipe).— Bruise together fifteen pounds of cherries not quite ripe, and two of currants; add two-thirds of the cherry kernels. Put the whole in a small cask with a quarter of a pound of sugar to each quart of juice. Let the cask stand in sand, and cover the bung tightly while it is working, which will occupy nearly three weeks. The cask should be of the size just to hold the juice, or the latter must be made up in the above proportions to the size of the cask, as it is necessary it should be full. Carry on the fer- mentation in the usual manner as in grape or gooseberry wine. When the fermentation is over, bung up the cask, and in about two months the wine will be fit to be drawn off and bottled. Wine, Cherry, Red.—Take some ripe red cherries, press them, breaking the stones amongst the fruit, till you have obtained ten gallons of purejuice. Add twenty-four pounds of strong bright moist sugar, stir well, and let the liquor stand three days covered up, stirring twice every day. Press the fruit in a horse-hair bag, and add the result to the juice; then mix well, and strain into.a sweet cask, adding five pints of French brandy, the rinds of six lemons pared very thin, and an ounce of the best isin- glass dissolved in a little water. Secure the bung tightly, and let the wine stand for six months in a cool cellar; then rack it off, filter the lees perfectly fine, and put all into the same cask again with three ounces of sugar-candy broken in large pieces. Fasten the bung as before, keep the wine eighteen months, and then bottle it. This excellent wine deserves keeping till it is very old. A rich light cherry wine ‘may be made as follows :—Take all kinds of ripe cherries, and bruise them in a tub till you have extracted eight gailons of juice; add six- teen pounds of good moist sugar, and set the liquor aside for three days covered closely up. Put two gallons of soft water upon the fruit, stir well for twenty minutes, and infuse for the same length of time. Then pare the rinds off four Seville oranges and three lemons—pare them very thin—stone and shred four pounds of Smyrna raisins, put them into a sweet ten-gallon cask with the juice of the oranges and lemons strained, and six ounces of sugar-candy. Mix the liquors in the two vessels, and strain well; then filter through a flannel bag, and fill the cask ; leave the bung out four or five days; add a pint and a half of brandy and an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little light wine, and stop up the cask safely for eighteen months. Then bottle the wine, seal the corks, and in six or eight months it will be fit for use. This wine will remain good for three years, not longer. : ‘Wine, Cherry (another way).—Pick Mo- rello cherries, not over-ripe, from their’ stalks, mash them in a mortar, and press to detach the WIN « pulp without bruising the stones, and let the mags stand twenty-four hours. Press the pulp through a coarse hair sieve, and to every three gallons add from eight to nine pounds of loaf sugar. Put the mixture into a cask, add yeast, and allow it to ferment, then rack the wine from its lees as soon as it grows clear. Some makers of cherry wine crack the stones and hang them with the bruised kernels in a bag suspended from the bung-hole and in the cask during the fermentation of the wine, which | thus acquires a nutty flavour. A good deal of this wine is made in Russia, where it is a com- mon practice to add honey to the cherries. Wine, Cider.—Mix sixteen gallons of apple-juice, sixteen pounds of honey, four ounces of white tartar; enclose in a bag one ounce each of cinnamon, cloves, and mace, and suspend it in the mixture while fermenting. When the fermentation is complete, add one gallon of rum. . Wine, Clary.—Take nine gallons of cold soft water, six pounds of honey, thirty pounds of the best loaf sugar, and the whites of twelve eggs beaten to a froth; mix all these together, and. boil for an hour and a. half, skimming and stirring nearly all the time. Pour the liquor into a cooler and add four quarts of clary tops in flower; work it at the proper temperature with good fresh ale. yeast, keeping it closely covered up and stirred well. Pick, stone, and cut in pieces fourteen pounds of good Malaga raisins; pour over them three gallons of luke- warm water that has been well boiled, stir well, and let them steep for five days. At the end of that: time press the fruit in a hair bag, strain the liquor from the flowers, add to it the rinds of ten lemons pared thin and their juice strained, and put this into the cask, filling up, and keep it open three or four days until the fermenta- tion has entirely ceased. Then add two quarts of French brandy, and stop it up for three months, after which rack it off into a clean cask, filter the lees, and fill the same cask again, adding six ounces of sugar-candy bruised, and an ounce of isinglass dissolved in two quarts of wine. Stop it up securely, and keep it eighteen months in a cool dry cellar; then bottle the wine, seal the corks, and in a twelvemonth it will be fit for use. Wine, Coltsfoot.—Take ten gallons of river water, and boil with it twenty-six pounds of strong moist sugar and the whites of ten eggs well beaten, three-quarters of an hour, skimming well all the time. Pour the liquor boiling hot on three pecks of fresh-gathered coltsfoot flowers and ten pounds of Malagas stoned and cut small; cover the vessel up.close, and let them infuse three days, stirring three times daily. Then make two gallons of the liquor scalding hot, stir it well into the rest, and add six or seven table-spoonfuls of good yeast; keep it well mixed and covered up, until it has worked freely, then strain it into your }; I ‘necessary. ‘T’he must being now prepared, the cask upon three ounces of the best ginger bruised and the thin rinds of six Seville oranges, and let itiremain open, covering the bung-hole with a tile until it has ceased fermenting. Add three half-pints of French brandy and a bottle ( 1181 ) WIN of strong madeira wine, stop it up securely, and keep it twelve months; then bottle it, and drink in six months more. This is a valuable wine for its medicinal properties. Wine, Cowslip.—Take seven pounds of moist sugar, two gallons and a half of water, and two ounces of hops, and boil them together, Pare the rinds of eight lemons or Seville oranges, or a part of each; pour the boiling liquor over them; when this is cool squeeze the juice over it, and add ‘this to the liquor. Ferment the whole with yeast in the usual way, and put it into the cask. Gather cowslips on a fine day, carefully picking out all stalks and leaves. Put into the cask of wine as much of the flowers as would equal a quart when fresh gathered for every gallon; stir well till the flowers sink. Dissolve three ounces of isin- glass in a little of the wine, and return it to the rest to fine; in a few days bung it up close. In six months the wine will be fit for bottling; but it will improve by ‘being kept longer in the cask. By managing as just described, the wine will be fined in the cask, and will be as good from the cask as if bottled, which will be a great saving of trouble. — Wine, Currant, Red.—Bruise eight gallons of red currants with one quart of rasp- berries. Press out the juice, and to the residuum, after pressure, add eleven gallons of cold water. Add two pounds of beetroot sliced as thin as possible to give colour, and let them ‘ infuse, with frequent mixture, for twelve hours; then press out the liquor as before, and add it to the juice. Next dissolve twenty pounds of raw sugar in the mixed liquor, and three ounces of red tartar-in fine powder. In some hours the fermentation will commence, which is to be managed as in the case of gooseberry wine. ‘When the fermentation is completely over, add one gallon of brandy; let the wine stand for a week, then rack off, and let it stand for two months. It may now be finally racked off, bunged up in the cask, and set by in a cool cellar for as many ycars as may be required to ameliorate it. Wine, Currant, White.—Bruise forty pounds of fruit’ in a tub holding fifteen. or twenty gallons, and add to it four gallons of water. Stir the whole well, and squeeze till the pulp is thoroughly separated from the skins. Leave these materials at rest for about twelve hours, and then strain them through a canvas bag or fine hair sieve, and pass one gallon of fresh water through the marc. Dissolve twenty- five or thirty pounds of white sugar in the juice ‘thus obtained, and make up the. whole quantity by an addition of ten gallons and a half of water. The proportion of sugar here given is for a brisk wine: if a sweet wine is required there must be forty pounds of sugar. White sugar is recommended as much the best; if moist sugar be used, somewhat more will be fermentation and subsequent treatment must be exactly the same as for gooseberry wine. If brandy is to be added, it should be added towards the end of the fermentation in the WIN cask. For the above quantity some will put in a quart of brandy alone ; others first mix it with honey. Whether the wine should be racked off from the ley at the end of six months, put into a fresh cask for six months longer before it is bottled, or be suffered to remain the whole time in the lees, must depend upon the state of the wine. The bottling should be carefully attended to. Wine Custard.—Rub off the zest of a lemon on six ounces of sugar; beat eighteen eggs to froth with half a spoonful of flour— potato flour, if it is at hand—a quart of wine, and a cupful of orange-flower water. Set the mixture on the fire, and keep stirring it till it froths. Pour the custard into cups or bowls, and serve with macaroons. Wine Custard Sauce.—Take the yolks of eight eggs, beat them up till thick, mix with them sugar to taste, the juice of two lemons, half a pint of white wine, and a little more than half that quantity of water. Set iton the fire, beat with a whisk till it froths: whenever the sauce boils, take it off. This sauce is to be eaten with puddings and tarts. Wine, Damson.—Boil ten gallons and a half of pure river water with thirty-two pounds of strong moist sugar and the whites of ten eggs well beaten half an hour, skimming it well; then add thirty-two quarts of ripe prune damesons well picked from the stalks and stoned, and boil them half an hour longer, skimming ‘and stirring until the liquor is beautifully bright. Strain it off the fruit in a fine bair sieve into your cooler, and when at the proper temperature work it with fresh yeast, spread on a toast, three or four days. Then draw it off the sediment, put it into the cask, filter the lees, and fill up, letting it work out at the bung. When it has ceased hissing put to it a quart of French brandy, and stop it up safely, pasting paper over the bung. Let it stand six months, then rack it off, filter the lees through flannel twice folded, and filling the cask again, add an ounce of isinglass dissolved and mixed with two quarts of the wine. Secure the bung well, and let it remain two years; then draw it off and bottle, sealing the corks. This being a rich wine, requires age, and should not be drunk until it has been bottled two years or more. Wine, Damson (another way).—Gather the damsons when dry, stone them, and mash them with your hand. Put them into a vessel with a fauset, and to eight pounds of fruit add one gallon of water. Boil the water, and put it to the fruit scalding hot. Let it stand about two days, then draw it off; and to every gallon of liquor put three pounds of fine sugar. Let the barrel be full, and stop it close. If it is a large quantity, let it stand twelve months before you drink it. ‘Wine Decanters, Cleaning of.—Use a little pearlash or soda, and some cinders and water. Rinse the decanters well out with clean water. Wine, Elderberry.—The elderberry is well suited to the production of wine. The juice contains a considerable quantity of the (1132 ) WIN principle necessary for a vigorous fermentation, and its beautiful colour imparts a rich tint to the wine made from it. It is, however, deficient in sweetness, and sugar must be added to it. The following is an approved recipe :—Take one gallon of ripe elderberries and one quart of damsons or sloes for every two gallons of wine to be made. Boil the elderberries in about half the quantity of water till they burst, breaking them frequently witha stick. Strain the liquor, and return it to the copper. To produce eighteen gallons of wine, twenty gallons of this liquor are required, and for whatever quan- tity the liquor falls short of this, water must be added to make it up. Boil this along with fifty-six pounds of coarse moist sugar for half an hour, and it is to be fermented in the usual manner when sufficiently cooled, and ‘then it is to be tunned or put into the cask. Put now ' into a muslin bag a pound and a half of ginger bruised, a pound of allspice, two ounces of cinnamon, and four or six ounces of hops; suspend the bag with the spice in the cask by a string not long enough to let it touch the bottom; let the liquor work in the cask for a fortnight, and fill up in the usual way. The wine will be fit to tap in two months, and is not improved by keeping like many other wines. Elderberries alone may be used. Wine, Elderberry (another way).—Take ten gallons of elderberries, ten gallons of water, forty-five pounds of white sugar, eight ounces of red tartar, and ferment with yeast in the usual. way. When in the cask, ginger root sliced or allspice, four ounces, bitter almonds, three ounces, suspended to u bag may be allowed to infuse in the liquor while it is fer- menting; they are thento be removed. Brandy may be added or not. "When the wine is clear, which will be in about three months, it may be drawn off from the lees and bottled. The spices may be varied according to taste. Wine from the Leaves and Stalks of the Grape.—The following is Dr. Maccul- loch’s recipe for making this wine :—‘‘ The young leaves may be taken at any period from vines which have been cultivated for this pur- pose, and from which no fruit is expected. In other cases they may be obtained from' the summer pruning. The tendrils and green shoots are equally useful. The claret vine may be cultivated for this purpose, in which case the wine will have « red colour. The leaves are best when young, and should not have at- tained more than half their growth; they should be plucked with their stems. In the neighbourhood of London they require to be carefully washed to remove the taste of soot which so often adheres to them: sometimes that is insufficient. From sixty to eighty pounds of such leaves being introduced into a tub of sufficient capacity, seven or eight gal- lons of boiling water are to be poured on them, in which they are to infuse for twenty-four hours. The liquid being poured off, the leaves must be pressed in a press of considerable power; and being subsequently washed with an additional gallon of water, they are again submitted to the action of the press. ‘The sugar, varying from twenty-five to thirty Birinci WIN pounds, is then to be added to the mixed liquors, and the quantity being made up to ten gallons and a half, the process for making gooseberry wine is to be followed. Although the water is here directed to be boiling hot, it must be remembered that it is immediately cooled down to that temperature which is most efficacious in extracting the several soluble in- gredients of the fruit.” The following additional observations on this curious subject are extracted from the same author :—‘‘ The difference between young and old leaves is very great; the former contain ten or twelve times the quantity of bitter that the latter do. The old leaves are unfit for the ferment. June is the proper time to pluck them ; at this season it is usual to remove leaves from the fruit-bearing vines, so that they may be easily procured; but if vines should be grown for this sole purpose, as they may be in any waste place or hedgerow, being allowed to run wild and unpruned, it will be always easy to procure a sufficient quantity and in the best condition. In their very best state at least six pounds are required for two of sugar, and it is perhaps preferable to adopt eight and a half; though no rule can be absolute, such is the va- riation in the extractive produce of the leaves. In the progress of the fermentation, should the wine promise to be too sweet, from defect of ferment, it is quite easy to add a fresh infusion, so as to correct this defect by a renewal of the fermentation. Of the leaves it must be ob- served, as they scarcely yield anything to the press, they require to be infused in the water for some time before they are subjected to fermentation, and they seem to yield their soluble parts most readily to hot water, without any material. alteration in the result—a matter of no surprise because, though the water be ap- plied at the boiling heat, its temperature is immediately lowered. Tartar appears some- times to be a useful addition to the leaves of the claret-vine; and it may be added in the proportion of half a pound or one pound to ten gallons of the must. One advantage re- sults from the use of vine-leaves—the facility with which they are reproduced during the growth of the vine. By this the produce of a small vineyard in leayes alone will be abundant, and even that of a single vine suffered to run wild, branches and leaves, will be as great as is required for the use of most families. It must always be remembered that in these cases the price of the sugar is the price of the wine. The expense of utensils and labour is comparatively trifling, and, when the manufacture is upon a small scale, scarcely worthy of regard,” Wine Froth for Dessert.—Take the yolks of twelve eggs and a pint of wine, and Place them in a deep saucepan on the fire, adding the grated peel of a lemon and sugar to taste. Beat with a whisk till the mixture of the eges becomes a thick froth, then stir in the whites, which must be beaten tosnow. Whisk the froth until it thickens, then pour it into cups or glasses: if into glasses, the froth should first be allowed to cool a little. Wine, Gilliflower.—To three gallons of water put six pounds of the best powdered ( 1133 ) WINn white sugar; boil the sugar and water together for half an hour, keep skimming as the scum rises ; let it stand to cool. Beat up three ounces of syrup of betony with a large spoonful of ale yeast, put it into the liquor, and brew it well together; then, having a peck of gilliflowers cut from the stalks, put them into the liquor, let them infuse and work together three days covered with a cloth; strain it, and put it into a cask, and let it settle for three or four weeks; then bottle it. Wine, Ginger.—Take eighteen or twenty pounds of sugar, dissolve in nine gallons and a half of boiling water, and add ten or twelve ounces of bruised ginger-root. Boil the mixture for about a quarter of an hour, and when nearly cold, add to it half a pint of yeast, and pour it into a cask to ferment, taking care to fill the cask from time to time with the surplus of the liquor made for that purpose. When the fer- mentation ceases, rack off the wine, and bottle it when transparent. Very often the outer rind of a few lemons is boiled together with the ginger intended for the wine, to impart to the wine the flavour of lemon-peel. Wine, Gooseberry.—The following is Dr. Macculloch’s recipe for making gooseberry wine :—‘ The fruit must be selected before it has‘shown the least tendency to ripen, but about the time when it has attained its full growth. The particular variety of gooseberry is perhaps indifferent; but it will be advis- able to avoid the use of those which in their ripe state have the highest flavour. The Green Bath is perhaps among the best. The smallest should be separated by a sieve properly adapted to this purpose, and any unsound or bruised fruit rejected, while the remains of the blossom and the fruit-stalk should be removed by friction or other means. Forty pounds of such fruit are then to be introduced into a tub properly cleaned and of the capacity of fifteen or twenty gallons, in which it is to be bruised in successive proportions, by » pressure suffi- cient to burst the berries without breaking the seeds or materially compressing the skins. Four gallons of water are then to be poured into the vessel, and the contents are to be carefully stirred and squeezed in the hand until the whole of the juice and pulp are separated from the solid matters. The materials are then to remain at rest from six to twenty-four hours, when they are to be strained through a coarse bag with as much force as can conveniently be applied to them. One gallon of fresh water may afterwards be passed through the mare for the purpose of removing any soluble matter which may have remained behind. Thirty or twenty-five pounds of white sugar are now to be dissolved in the juice thus procured, and the total bulk of the fluid made up with water to the amount of ten gallons and a half. If I name two quantities, it is because the fruit itself varies in quality, and it depends on the operator to distinguish. The old recipes allow forty pounds, of which the consequence is, invariably, a sweet wine, while it fails of being brisk in nine cases out of ten. And the smaller proportion here given will most frequently en- sure a brisk wine, if the operator will but attend WIN ( 1134 ) WIN to the progress of the fermentation and the treatment as formerly described. The liquor thus obtained is the artificial must, which is equivalent to the juice of the grape—that is, made to resemble it as nearly as possible. It is now to be introduced into a tub of sufficient capacity, over which a blanket or similar sub- stance, covered by a board, is to be thrown, the vessel being placed in a temperature vary- ing from 55° to 60° of Fahrenheit’s thermo- meter. Here it may remain for twelve or twenty-four hours, according to the symptoms of fermentation which it may show, and from this tub it is to. be drawn off into the cask in which it is to ferment. When in the cask it must be filled nearly to the bung-hole, that the scum which arises may be thrown out. As the fermentation proceeds, and the bulk of the liquor in the cask diminishes, the superfluous portion of must, which was made for this express purpose, must be poured in, so as to keep the liquor still near the bung-hole. When the fermentation becomes a little more languid, as may be known by a diminution of the hissing sound, the bung is to be driven in, and a hole bored by its side, into which a wooden peg, called the spile, is to be fitted. After a few days this peg is to be loosened, that, if any material quantity of it has been generated, it may find vent. The same trial must be made after successive intervals, and when there appears no longer any danger of extensive ex- pansion, the spile may be permanently tight- ened. The wine thus made must remain over the winter in a cool cellar, as it is no longer necessary to provoke the fermenting process. If the operator is not inclined to bestow any further labour or expense on it, it may be examined on some clear and cold day towards the end of February or beginning of March, when, if fine, as it will sometimes be, it may be bottled without further precautions. To ensure its fineness, however, it is a better practice to decant it, towards the end of December, into a fresh cask, so as to clear it from the first lees. At this time also the operator will be able to determine whether it is not too sweet for his views. In this case, instead of decanting it, he will stir up the lees, so as to renew the fer- menting process, taking care also to increase the temperature at the same time. At whatever time the wine has been decanted, it is to be fined in the usual way with isinglass. Some- times it is found expedient to decant it a second time into a fresh cask, and again to repeat the operation of fining. All these removals should be made in clear, dry, and, if possible, cold weather. In any case the wine must be bottled during the month of March. The wines thus produced will generally be brisk, and similar in their qualities (flavour excepted) to the wines of Champagne, with the strength of the best Sillery, if the larger proportions of sugar have been used, but resembling the inferior kinds with the smaller allowance. Inattention, or circum- stances which cannot always be controlled, will sometimes cause it to be sweet and still, at other times to be dry. In the former case it may be manufactured the following season, by adding to it that proportion of juice from fresh fruit which the operator’s judgment may dictate, and renewing the fermentation and subsequent treatment as before. In the latter case, as its briskness can never be restored, it must be treated as dry wine, by decanting into a sulphured cask, when it must be fined and bottled in the usual manner. Such dry wines are occasionally disagreeable to the taste in the first or second year, but are much improved by keeping, nor ought they to be drunk under five or six years.” Wine Jelly for an Invalid (see Jelly, Weak Wine, for an Invalid). . Wine Jelly, Madeira.—This jelly is made just like calf’s-foot jelly. When the jelly is nearly clarified, pour into the same stewpan a bottle of madeira. As the operation of clarifying takes away the strength of the wine, you must add half a bottle of brandy to it. You must observe that this jelly will keep for several days, and that accordingly what you have left, and what is sent down from table, will be sufficient to supply you with another entremet some other day. This is a common jelly, which cooks frequently serve; therefore, in order to avoid monotony, you must ornament it with another jelly, which make as follows :—Take four spoonfuls of the wine jelly, break’ the yolks of four eggs into a stewpan, beat the eggs with the jelly, and lay it on the fire to thicken ; then strain it through a sieve, lay it on ice in a basin, and use it for the same purpose, to decorate as in the recipe Winter Jelly, Mosaic. It sometimes happens that the jellies made of calf’s feet will break when you turn them up- side down intoa dish. To prevent this accident, throw in a pinch of isinglass when you are going to clarify the jelly. It gives it a greater substance. This jelly is a monotonous one, but the sagacity of the cook will in some respects alter this character, for he will sometimes give this jelly plain, sometimes with grapes in it, and sometimes put it in a cylinder mould. When you have turned the jelly, have some of the same in ice, take a stewpan cover, chop some of the jelly very fine, and put it some- times all round, sometimes in the mifidle, and try by your intelligence to supply the deficiency of the art whenever you can. This jelly is made in all seasons; in summer strawberries are excellent in it, and the flavour of the fruit harmonises well with the jelly. Wine Jelly, Madeira (another way).— See Madeira Wine Jelly. Wine Lozenges.—Steep one ounce of isinglass in water for twelve hours—use very little water for this purpose—then boil in a pint of port or madeira until evaporated to one-half. Pour into a mould; when cold cut into lozenges with a large pair of scissors. These lozenges, used in moderation, are highly tonic. ; : Wine, Marigold.—Take twenty-five pounds of good loaf sugar and four pounds of honey, and boil them, with ten gallons of soft water and the whites of cight eggs well-beaten, one hour, skimming it until quito clear, and pour it hot upon three pecks of marigold flowers and four pounds of good raisins stoned and shred, covering the vessel close. Next day stir WIN (1135 ) WIN the liquor continually twenty minutes, and let it remain covered until the following morning. Then strain the liquor, and put it into your cask upon the rinds of six Seville oranges pared . very thin, and eight ounces of sugar-candy broken small, reserving two gallons, which must be made nearly boiling hot, and stirred amongst the rest. Then work it with nearly seven or eight table-spoonfuls of good fresh yeast, cover the bung-hole with a tile, and let it work over, filling it up every day as the liquor decreases. When the fermentation has ceased, put in three pints of French brandy and an ounce of dissolved isinglass, and stop it u securely. It will be fine in nine months, an fit for bottling, but will improve if kept longer. Let it remain in bottles well corked and sealed twelve months. . Wine, Mulberry.— Gather the mul- berries "before they are quite ripe, bruise them in a tub, and to every quart of the bruised berries put the same quantity of water. Let the mixture stand for twenty-four hours, and then strain it through a coarse sieve. Having added to every gallon of the diluted juice three or four pounds of sugar, allow it to ferment in the usual way. When fine in the cask, bottle it. Wine, Mulled.—Any kind of wine may be mulled, though port and claret are the most suitable, and are usually preferred for the pur- pose. Claret needs to be liberally sweetened. The quantity of spice used must be regulated by individual taste, which varies considerably upon questions of this sort. Grated nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, and mace, are the spices gene- rally uscd for mulled wine. To mull the wine, take equal quantities of wine and water (or, if preferred, double the quantity of wine to that of watcr). Boil the spice in the water till the latter is sufficiently flavoured; strain the liquor, sweeten it, mix the wine with it, and bring it again to the point of boiling. Serve very hot, with wine biscuits or thin strips of dry toast. When equal quantities only of wine and water are used, an egg may be whisked in a bowl, the boiling liquor may be stirred - gradually into it, and then served. The sauce- pan in which wine is mulled should be delicately clean, and used for no other purpose. Wine, Mulled, Claret.—Take a few cloves, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, the thin peel of half a lemon, two slices of lemon, four ounces of sifted sugar, and one pint of water; boil for a quarter of an hour in an enamelled saucepan, add a little grated nutmeg or powdered ginger, two bottles of claret, one small glass of brandy or curacoa ; when nearly boiling, strain. Wine, Orange. — “Seville oranges are used for this purpose; they are best in March. For eighteen gallons of wine half a chest of oranges are required. Pare the rinds from about a dozen or two dozen, as more or less of the bitter will be agreeable. Pour over this a quart or two of boiling water, and after letting this stand for twelve hours, strain off the water which extracted much of the essential oil of the oranges. Take the peel off entirely from the remainder of the oranges, squeeze the juice through a bag or sieve, and put it into a cask with about forty-five pounds of white sugar, or fifty-five of the best moist sugar. Soak the pulp in water for twenty-four hours, and after straining this add it to the cask. Repeat this several times till the cask is full. Stir the whole well with a stick till the. sugar is dis- solved, then set it to ferment. The fermen- tation is slower than with currant wine, but may be heard hissing for some weeks. When this subsides, close the bung-hole and proceed as in the case of gooseberry wine. Some add brandy. This wine requires to be kept in the - cask a year before it is bottled.’ ‘Wine, Peach (a Canadian recipe).—Take the stones out of forty-five pounds of ripe peaches, slice the fruit into a clean vessel, and strew over and amongst them ten pounds of loaf sugar broken small: let them lie covered up | until the next day. Boil ten gallons of soft water, with sixteen pounds of loaf sugar and the whites of ten eggs beaten fine, half an hour, skimming it until clear; then put to it the fruit and sugar out of the vessel, and boil them to a pulp, taking off the scum as it rises. Put the whole into a tub upon the shells and kernels of the peaches previously broken, stir it well, and when properly cooled stir well amongst it nearly half'a pint of good yeast, and leave it to ferment. Stir it well two days at proper inter- vals, then strain the liquor through a fine sieve, and put it in your cask to work over, being kept always full. Add the thin rinds of six Sovilie oranges, and half a pint of orange and lemon juice mixed, and when the fermentation has ceased, put in two quarts of brandy, and stop it up for two months. Then rack it off, into a clean-vessel, filter the lees, and fill the cask again, adding an ounce of dissolved isin- glass and six ounces of sugar-candy. Stop it up securely, and keep it twelve months; then bottle it, seal the corks, and let it be six months longer before you drink it. It is a delicious wine, and may be made at a trifling expense. Wine Punch.—Take two lemons, and rasp the yellow rind off with half a pound of loaf sugar. Put this with the juice of the lemons into a bowl; then make scalding hot two bottles of good Rhine wine, adding to it a pint of strong green tea. Pour this over the sugar, and’add from half a pint to a pint of arrack or fine rum. Wine, Raisin.—Procure fresh Smyrna or Malaga raisins; pick out the stalks and all ‘defective fruit; chop twenty-eight pounds of these into small bits, and pour upon them three gallons of tolerably hot water, and let them stand to soak for twelve hours. Put the whole into a hair-cloth or clean canvas bag, and with asufficiently powerful press press out the juice, Put two gallons more of hot water on the mare of raisins; let this remain also twelve hours, and press out as before. Mix the two liquids together; but the skins are not to be used. Add to the juice thus obtained three pounds of white sugar, and put the whole into a proper vessel to ferment. Some add an ounce or two of crude tartar, but no yeast, as the raisins WIN ( 1136 ) WIN contain of themselves sufficient fermenting principle. This liquor will ferment, and the vessel should be covered with a blanket. When the first fermentation is over, the wine is to be transferred or racked into a clean cask, and suffered to undergo the slow fermentation; it is then to be kept bunged up for three months, and then racked into another cask. In about twelve months it will be fit to bottle. Some add brandy after the first fermentation; but this is not necessary. A still richer wine may be made by increasing the quantity of fruit and leaving out the sugar. Wine Sauce for Sweet Puddings.— Make a quarter of a pint of good melted butter, sweeten it, flavour with grated lemon or orange-rind, and add wu glassful of wine. Mix thoroughly, and serve very hot. If preferred, brandy or rum may be substituted for the wine. Sufficient for five or six persons. Wine Sauce, Red.—This is a Danish sauce to be eaten with plum pudding. Take a quarter of a pint of cherry-juice and half a pint of wine. When the mixture boils put in a good spoonful of flour mixed with a gill of water and two or three spoonfuls of brandy. Just before the sauce reaches the boiling point take it off, and serve immediately. Wine Sauce, Tremblant, Beef with (see Beef with Wine Sauce, Tremblant). Wine Soup (a German recipe).—Take two ounces of butter and melt it ina stewpan. In this brown two table-spoonfuls of flour, stir into it a pint of water, add three or four ounces of sugar, the rind and juice of a lemon, a stick of cinnamon, and a bottle of wine. Simmer ten minutes. Place in a tureen the yolks of six eggs, pour over them slowly the wine soup, and send to table with toasted sippets. Wine Soup, Monastery (sce Monastery ‘Wine Soup). Wine Soup with Lemon (a German recipe).—Cut two lemons in thin slices, and take out the seeds. Cover the slices with powdered sugar inatureen. Melt a piece of butter ina stewpan, and throw in a cupful of grated bread to brown. Keep the crumbs shaken or stirred till they are crisp, then strew them over the lemon-slices. Make a quart of wine, with a pint of water and sufficient sugar, boiling hot; pour it over the lemon-slices; cover closely for a few minutes, and serve with sponge cakes. Wine Soups.—Wine soups, made of light German wine, are very common throughout Germany. They are very quickly made. Two or three recipes are given. No. 1. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a saucepan, stir into it briskly a table-spoonful of flour, and beat the paste over the fire till it acquires a little colour. Stir into it half a pint of water, and add the thin rind and strained juice of half a fresh lemon, half a stick of cinnamon, three table- spoonfuls of sugar, and a small bottle of light wine. Simmer the soup for ten minutes, break three eggs into the tureen, and froth them lightly. Mix them with a spoonful of the soup. Add the rest gradually, and serve. No. 2. Boil two ounces of best rice and the thin rind of half a lemon in three-quarters of a pint of water. When the rice is tender, mix with it gradually a small bottle of wine, and add as much white sugar as will sweeten it pleasantly. Break two eggs into the tureen, mix with them a spoonful of the soup, and serve. No. 3. Cut a large fresh lemon into thin slices, carefully removing the seeds. Put them into a tureen, cover with powdered white sugar, and add a tea-cupful of grated bread-crumbs which have been browned in butter. Mix a pint of wine with half a pint of water. Sweeten the mix- ture, and bring it to the point of boiling. Pour it upon the slices of lemon, &c., let them soak for five minutes, and serve. Send small sponge cakes to table as an accompaniment. Wine-sour Plums, To Preserve (excellent).— Pick off the stalks, weigh the plums, and take half their weight in loaf sugar pounded. Tear the skin of the seam with a pin, and put the fruit and the sugar, in alternate layers, into a large earthen jar. Cover the jar closely, and put it in the oven in a shallow tin of boiling water. Keep-the water boiling under it. When the plums are soft, pour the syrup from them; boil it, pour it over the fruit, and leave them till cold. Do this several times until the skin looks hard and the plums clear. Let them stand a week, then take them up one by one with a spoon and put them into jars. Boil the syrup once more, and pour it over them. If there is not sufficient syrup to cover them, add syrup to it, made in the pro- portion of a pound of sugar to a tea-cupful of water. When the plums are cold, place brandied papers upon them, and tie a bladder over, to keep them air-tight; otherwise, they will lose their colour. If stored in a cool dry place, plums thus preserved will keep for years. Time, about ten days. Wine-sours are plums peculiar to Yorkshire. Wine-sours, To Preserve (a more expeditious method).— Skin and stone the plums, and boil them till soft. Put with them three-quarters of their weight in sugar, and stir them continuously till the syrup will set when a little is put upon a plate. Pour the jam into jars, and cover in the usual way. Store in a cool dry place. Time to boil the plums, three- quarters of an hour without sugar; about a quarter of an hour with sugar. Wine, Spiced, or Bishop. — Make several incisions in the rind of a lemon, stick cloves in the incisions, and roast the lemon by a slow fire. Put small but equal quantities of cinnamon, cloves, mace, and allspice into a saucepan with half a pint of water. Let it boil till it is reduced one-half. Boil a bottle of port wine; burn a portion of the spirit out of it by applying a lighted paper to the saucepan. Put the roasted lemon and spice into the wine, stir it up well, and let it stand near the fire for ten minutes. Rub a few knobs of sugar on the rind of a lemon, put the sugar into a bowl or jug with the juice of half a lemon (not roasted), pour the wine into it, grate some nutmeg into it, sweeten to taste, and serve with the lemon and spice floating in it. Oranges are sometimes used instead of lemons. WIN (1137 ) WIN Wine, Strawberry.—Bruise and press out the juice, Pour on the marc seven gallons of water; infuse for twelve hours, and press out the liquor; add this liquor to the juice, and mix them with six gallons of cider. Dissolve in the mixture sixteen pounds of raw sugar ‘and three ounces of powdered red tartar, and then set it to ferment in the usual manner. Pare the rinds of two lemons and two oranges, and, together with the juice, throw them into the fermenting-tub, and take out the rinds when the fermentation is over. Three gallons of brandy may be added. Wine Test, Dr. Paris’s. — “Expose equal parts of sulphur and powdered oyster- shells to a white heat for fifteen minutes, and when cold add an equal quantity of cream of tartar. These are to be put into a strong bottle with common water to boil for an hour, and the solution is afterwards to be decanted into ounce phials, adding twenty drops of muriatic acid to each. This liquid will precipi- tate the least quantity of lead from wines in a very sensible black precipitate. As iron might be accidentally contained in the wine, the muriatic acid is added to prevent its precipita- tion.” Wine Vinegar.—Wine vinegar is pro- perly the vinegar of genuine foreign wines, methodically prepared as in Germany, France, and Italy, and does not include those made from cider, malt-wines, or made wines of any ‘description whatever. All wines, especially those of a weak kind, either spontaneously, or by repeated fermentations, may be converted into a kind of vinegar. Wine Whey, White.—Take half a pint of new milk and dilute it with an equal quan- tity of hot water; boil both together, and while boiling pour in at the moment two wine- _glassfuls of white wine. A curd will form, which, after the mixture is boiled for two or three minutes, will settle at the bottom of the saucepan. Strain the whey carefully from the curd; it should be perfectly clear. Sugar may be added to please the taste. ‘ Warm whitc- wine whey promotes perspiration, and hence it is useful in the commencement of some com- plaints; but taken cold it has a different effect, and often in cases of low fever it is an excellent beverage; also in the early stages of con- valescence it is as safe and sufficient a stimulant as can be given.” Wine, Wholesomeness of.—‘ Sweet wines,” says Dr.T. J. Graham, “are nourishing, and may sometimes be useful to the weak and convalescent, but they are not so wholesome as the wines in more common use. The acid wines, as the Rhenish and hock, are the least heating, and the most diuretic, and well calcu- lated for consumption in hot weather. All thin or weak wines, however, though of an agreeable flavour, yet from their containing tile spirit, are readily disposed to become acid in the stomach. But it ought to be observed that with some delicate persons the best Rhenish wines agree very well, and are less liable to ferment than many of the stronger wines. The dry and strong wines, such as sherry, madeira, 7T2—N.£. and marsala, and the dry and light, as burgundy, claret, and hermitage, are the most wholesome: they are more cordial than the acid ones, and can be taken with safety in greater quantitics than the sweet. The gentle astringency in genuine claret renders it in the opinion of many on the whole the most wholesome of any strong liquor whatsoever to be drunk plentifully. Port isa strong astringent wine, and, when not mixed with more than a very small portion of brandy, is generous and stomachic, and well suited to the generality of British constitutions in tolerable health. It is well calculated for cold and moist weather; but, like other red wines, is apt to occasion costiveness. ‘Sparkling brisk wines, as champagne, inebriate more speedily than the stiller wines, but the morbid excite- ment is of short duration, and the subsequent exhaustion is comparatively trifling. In feverish habits, burgundy, port, and the stronger white wines, are to be avoided. To those who have a disposition to corpulence, claret,’ hock, or moselle, on account of their diuretic properties, are preferable to every other kind of wine for daily use. The moderate use of wine is safe, and often highly beneficial to those who have passed the meridian of life, but to young per- sons it is almost invariably pernicious. Children in tolerable health are never strengthened, but always injured, by it. As a tonic and stomachic to the aged, three or four moderate-sized glasses of good wine after dinner ought to be sufficient for most men.” Wines.—Recipes for many home-made | wines are given in the immediately preceding pages. Recipes for the following will be found under their respective headings :— ~ APRICOT Gincer, SUPERIOR AROMATIC GoosEBERRY, ErreEr- Bircu VESCING BLAcKBERRY GoosERERRY, STILL Grape, SPARKLING Hexss, WINE oF JELLY, Wrak, ror In- BLACK-CURRANT CHAMPAGNE, CURRANT CHAMPAGNE, ENGLISH Cuaret Cup VALIDS Craret, Mvutiep Lemon Cows.ip LEMON, QUICKLY MADE Currant, Buack MaLmMsEey Currant, Rev Matmsey, Scotcu Currant, WHITE Marx Currant, From Un- MovLizp RIPE FRvITS OxancE Damson PaxsNIP (SIMPLE WAY) DaNDELION RaIsin Ece Raisin witH Cipen ELpER RasPBERRY Frontienac SHALLOT GINGER Vine Leaves Wines, Alcohol in.—The quantity of alcohol existing in different wines may be seen from. the following table drawn up by Mr. Brande :— Names of tho Wines, Malt and Spirituous Liquors, and the roportion of Alcohol (specific gravity 0°825) in one quan parts of these liquids by measure, Lissa (average) 25°41 Marsala (average) . 25°09 Port (average) é s . 23°39 Madeira and Red or Burgundy e d 22°27 Madeira (average) ‘ WIN ( 1138 ) WIN Names of tho Wines, Malt and Spirituous Liquors, and the proportion of Alochol (specific gravity 0°825) in one hundred parts of theso liquids by measure. Xeres or Sherry (average) . 19°17 Teneriffe : a 3 : . 19°79 Lachryma Christi . 5 3 . 19°70 Constantia (white). . ‘ - 19°75 do. (red) : 5 : « 18°92 Lisbon . i zs C ‘ - 18-94 Cape Muscat . 7 . “i « 18-25 Roussillon (average - : + 18°13 Malaga... 5 eb os 3 - 17°26 Hermitage (white) . : ” - 17°43 Malmsey Madeira . . : - 16°40 Lunel . f : ‘ ~ « 15°52 Bordeaux Wine or Claret (average) . 15°10 Sauterne . . : . - 14:22 Burgundy (average) . 14:57 Nice “ i . . _ » 14°63 Champagne (still) . . F - 13:80 do. Png Se) ods - 12°61 Red Hermitage . 7 . - 12°32 Vin de Grave : : : - 13.37 Frontignac . : : 7 « - 12°89 Coté Rotie . Be ee z 12°32 Rhenish Wine (average) é 12-08 Tokay . 5 : : 9°88 Gooseberry Wine . : ‘ . 11°84 Cider (highest average). + 9°87 do. (lowest average) . . 521 Mead . . . 7 ‘i - 732 Ale (average) . ee Gee . - 6°87 Brown Stout . é . : - 6°80 Porter (average) . : 3 - 4:20 Small Beer . : : : - 1:28 Brandy 7 - 53°89 Rum . 53°68 Gin : 51-60 Whisky 2 : ‘ 3 - 54°32 Irish Whisky : : : - 53°90 The action of wines upon the animal economy depends principally upon the quantity of alco- hol they contain. However, a certain given quantity of wine does not act in the same way as a mixture of alcohol and water in the same proportions; and certain wines yielding on distillation very nearly the same pro- portion of alcohol do not inebriate with the same facility. This difference must be ascribed to the various kinds of combinations in which alcohol exists in these complex products. Wines, Analysis of.—The following re- marks on this subject are drawn from the admirable South Kensington Museum Hand- book on “ Food,’’ by Professor Church. ‘“‘When the sugary juice of any fruit is left to itself for a time at a moderately warm temperature, the change known as fermentation occurs. This fermentation is generally brought about by the growth of a low form of vegetable life—an organised ferment. It consists of a splitting up of the sugar present in the liquid (or at least of | a large part of it) into alcohol, which remains in the liquid, and carbonic acid gas, which escapes more or less completely. ‘‘ Although the fermented juice of all fruits may be regarded as wine, yet the term is gene- rally limited to the alcoholic liquor prepared from the grape. least two familiar native wines—perry or pear But we have in England at | -wine, and cider or apple wine. Other so-called British wines are usually made-up or compound liquors, into which a large quantity of cane or ‘beet sugar has been introduced. They cannot be regarded as true wines, nor are they generally wholesome. ‘The analysis of grapes shows us that the chief ingredient in their juice is glucose, a kind of sugar. Thereisalso some albuminoid matter and a little tartaric acid, chiefly in combination with potash; other minor ingredicnts also oxist in grape-juice. The seeds of the grape contain the astringent substance, tannin, with some bitter principles, while in the skins not only ‘does colouring matter exist, but alsosome flavour- ing matters and tannin: From these facts it -will be clearly seen that very different qualities of wine may be made from the same quality of grape, according to the method of operating upon the fruit. The colour, the bouquet or volatile flavour, the astringency, &c., of a wine may thus be varied according to the admission or exclusion of the characteristic ingredients of the skins and stones of the grapes. “The main difference between grape-jnice and grape-wine is the substitution of the sugar in the former by the alcohol which is charac- teristic of the latter. But other changes occur in the fermentation and ripening of wine. Much of the acid tartrate of potash is deposited from the liquid on being kept, this deposit, being called. argol. Argol consists chiefly of the above- mentioned tartrate, but with it a little colouring matter and some tartrate of lime are always found. Inthe stronger but natural white wines small floating crystals of cream of tartar often occur; they are nearly pure acid tartrate of potash. A small quantity of free acetic acidis . found in wines. . When they become sour it is this acid to which the sourness is due; it is formed by the oxidation of some of the alcohol present, a change which occurs more readily in weak natural wincs than in those which contain much alcohol. Another important characteristic of wines is the presence in small quantity of certain compounds called ethers. They are usually fragrant oily liquids, of which traces are present in all wines. These ethers are com- pounds formed by the union of the ordina alcohol or spirit of wine with some of the aci which are contained in the fermented liquor—at least this is usually the case. Much, then, of the flavour and perfume of a wine is due to these ethers, some of which existed, ready- formed, in the grape itself, while others were slowly formed in keeping the fermented liquor. Different varieties of grape yield differently- flavoured wines, but the alcoholic strength of a wine depends mainly upon the proportion of sugar in the grapes, and in the degree of com- pletion to which the process of fermentation is carried. ‘The same kind of grape gives a: very different wine as to flavourand alcoholic strength in accordance with the climate in which it is grown, the season, and the soil. “The quantity of true or absolute alcohol in natural wines varies from 7 per cent. in some hocks, clarets, and other light wines, to 13 per cent. in many Greek and Hungarian vintages. . When the quantity of absolute alcohol exceeds j 13 or 134 per cent, it may usually be considered WIN ( 1189 ) WIN that the wine has received an addition, of dis- led spirit, or been fortified. Wines of deli- sate. flavour will not bear fortifying, the alcohol added being usually derived from the fermenta- tion of artifically-prepared grape sugar, and con- taining the coarsely-flavoured alcohol Jmown as-fusil oil. A fortified wine may contain, a good.deal of sugar, for the addition of spirit to a eer rerasng Hamid checks, more or less ,com-. w pletely, the further change of the sugar. ; “Wines under 26° of proof spirit pay on im- portation a duty of 1s..a gallon; those over 26° and under 42° pay 2s. 6d. Large and increas- ing quantities of natural wines now come into this country. Even of Spanish wines so im- ported about one-half are of natural strength, while the average of all Spanish wines does not show much over 28 per cent. of proof-spirit— rather less than 14 per cent. of absolute alcohol. “The following table shows the quantities of alcohol, of fixed acids—calculated as tartaric acid—of acetic acid, of sugar, of ethers, and of mineral matter or ash, contained in fair ave- rage samples of eight different kinds of wines commonly consumed in Europe. One imperial pint of each cf the following wines contains about :-— 2 a] 2; a Bs Name of Wine. ssh f 3 BS Sugar. | 2 33 mee a |e oz. ‘ ‘. Te. | OZ Te . ‘. Hock . |1 219) 39 | 18 |none | 4 | f6 Claret . .|1 306) 31) 18 | 0 9) 6/18 Ghampagne|1 343] 20] 10]1 120! 5 | 20 Burgundy |/2 18/24/17/0 10/6] 18 Carlowitz .}2 35) 86 | 19 | none | 5 | 16 Sherry . | 3 147} 24) 12]0 2386) 4 | 38 Madeira | 3 218] 26) 18}0 175; 83 Port . |3 218| 23) 12 ]0 3859] 6 | 20 “The different wines made in this country from rhubarb stalks, gooseberries, currants, cowslips, elderberries, oranges, &c., contain oxalic, malic, and other acids, besides the tartaric acid which is the chief acid of the grape. Now these acids are not thrown out of the liquor after fermentation, as is the case to a great extent with the. wine from grapes. Thus sugar has to be added to mask the acidity of thése liqueurs, and in consequence they are not so wholesome as the natural imported wines. But it must not be supposed that grapes are entirely free from all acids save tartaric, cr that the analyses as above given re- present every constituent of the wines we have included in the table. “The ethers of wines previously alluded to include a number of compounds not yet com- fletely analysed or understood. Some of them, |however, have been examined pretty fully, and even exactly imitated by chemical means. @anthate, butyrate, and acetate of ethyl are the names given to some of the best known of these ethers. These ethers enter into the com- position of the artificial “oil of cognac” and ‘various flavouring essences.” Wines, Bottling of.—Bottling can never looked on as an unimportant matter, seeing that upon the process depend in a great measure | guide. many of the, finest qualities of different wines. Asa general rule, fine and delicate wines never attain,to their full perfection till they have been some time in bottle. There,are many conditions essential to a satisfactory performance of the operation, such as the state of the wine, the atmosphere, and the materials omployed in the process. The state of the wine should be such as would prevent any further advantages accruing . from its retention in the wood. This point varies much even in the same wine—that is, in wine made from the same plants grown upon the same ground, but of different crops (because the grapes of one year’s crops may be more matured than those of another), and.even in the same crop, when.the wine has been. placed in different utensils and subjected to slight changes of temperature. To ascertain the point, the palate of a skilled “ taster ” is usually the surest ‘Wine should never be bottled till it is still, clear, and translucent. The least necli- gence in these respects may seriously com- promise its condition after bottling. From what has just been said, it will be seen that it is impossible to fix a determinate date at which particular wines ought to be bottled. In any case, it should not be delayed until the wine begins to deteriorate, nor hurried on before it has acquired a suitable maturity. The atmospheric conditions most favourable to the process of bottling are those in which the wine is most tranquil. Autumn and winter, up to the end of March, when the weather is still cold—neither damp, overbright, nor thundery —are the best times, for the reasons which render these seasons most suitable to “ racking.” As regards material, great circumspection should be observed in the choice of bottles and of the corks to be used with them. However | good the bottles themselves may be, it is in- dispensable that they should be washed, inside and out, with scrupulous care, so that they may be free from the least spot or stain of any foreign substance, and from suspicion of impart- ing even the slightest colour or taste to the water in which they are washed. The practice of using leaden small-shot in washing bottles, to detach the harder portions of fur and crust, is highly prejudicial, and should be forbidden in every case. The shot-corns often get wedged between the sides of the bottle and its convex bottom so firmly as to defy all efforts to dis- lodge them. Coming in contact with the wine, they dissolve more or less completely, and com- municate to the latter poisonous properties, due not only to the formation of salts of lead, but to the arsenic which enters into the composition of small shot. For cleansing purposes, there- fore, metallic chains with small joints are greatly to be preferred, though, after all, wash- ing with suitable brushes is the best method, and various small machines exist which execute, the operation very satisfactorily. The bottles should be allowed to drain thoroughly before the wine is put in, for which purpose they should be made to stand bottom upwards for a sufficient time, the necks being inserted in orifices placed for the purpose on tables or shelves. Corks should invariably be used as stoppers. It is very essential that they should be of good quality, fine, even in texture, and WIN (1140 ) WIN elastic, and, in the case of new corks, that they should be properly cut, and free from defects. After bottling, it is very desirable that the wine should stand for some time,-to get the full benefit of the operation—generally speaking, for twelve months at least. During this period the bottle should be kept in a suitable store- house, in such a position that the wine may cover the corks, and should on no account be moved. Ordinary wines containing a small portion of alcohol are apt to fur if these pre- cautions are unheeded. Should the wine deposit any sediment after bottling (which it generally does), it will of course form on the under side, and care must be taken in moving the wine to prevent any admixture of the sediment there- with, Wines, Choice of.—The choice of wines, in laying in a stock, is a matter of considerable difficulty, particularly to the inexperienced. A habit of tasting the superior wines will alone give the palate the power of discriminating minute differences in the aroma and bouquet of the choice kinds. But a very correct taste in wine is a rare quality ; and there is sometimes a gocd deal of pretension in passing a judgment upon them. The particular impression on the sense of taste is also liable to be affected by the state of bodily health at the time, or by the last substance taken into the mouth. Thus, wine after sweetmeats and fruits frequently tastes harsh; whereas after made dishes and cheese wines sometimes appear better than they really are. The first object to be considered, next to the taste, from which the purchaser must judge for himself, is whether the wine is pure and the genuine production of the country whose name it bears; and whether or not it is adul- terated with any foreign substance. To dis- tinguish this accurately, in many cases, requires great experience and a very nice palate. It is even said that few persons, except the manufac- turers themselves, are judges sufficiently ex- perienced to distinguish and appreciate the different growths of their own territory; and that even these cannot estimate properly the wines of another district. Another kind of ability necessary is to be able to distinguish the condi- tion of the wine: whether it is new, and whether it will keep or will be liable to change. Some wines may appear good that will not keep a year; and others that at first appear indifferent will im- prove so much by keeping as to Be in the end excellent. Good wine is most frequently to be found among capitalists, who can afford to buy large quantities in favourable years, and who can select in their stock that which is fittest for bottling at any particular time, not sending out any but what is fit for use, and who have a reputation to keep up. It is scarcely necessary to add that there are few articles of domestic consumption in which there are more frauds practised than in wine, or in which more money may be thrown away for want of good management: to say nothing of the pleasure it affords every one to place good wine before his guests, or the danger of injuring their healths by offering them what is prejudicial. ~ "Wines, Diseases of.—By “ diseases of wines '’ we must understand those conditions in which wines have become so altered and un- fitted for use as to have lost their distinct character. The chief diseases are as follows :— 1. The Turning of Wine.—This is a disease which attacks young wine, and seems to occur under special conditions of the weather. The colour grows darker, and the taste first dis- appears, and if the disease continues becomes disagreeable ; the wine becomes turbid and acid. This disease arises from a decomposition of tartar. 2. The Ropiness of Wine.—This disease con- sists in the formation of vegetable mucus from the sugar of the wine, and is known as mucous fermentation. The wines liable to this change are those which are deficient in tannic acid. 8. The Bitterness of Wine.—In this we have a disease to which Burgundy wines are specially liable. It appears to arise from a second fer- mentation, inasmuch asa large quantity of car- bonic acid is evolved. It has been ascribed by some to the formation of citric ether, which is very bitter. The disease is caused by the sedi- ment, and is often put a stop to by drawing the wine off into other casks. 4. The Acidifying of Wine.-—This depends upon the conversion of the alcohol into acetic acid, and may be nipped in the bud by adding alkaline carbonates; which, however, destroy the colour and affect the taste of the wine. 5. The Mouldiness of Wine.—In this disease mould-plants are produced on the surface of the wine. How and under what condition the mould is formed is uncertain ; all that is known is that the admission of air is favourable to the disease. Wines, Effervescing.—If wines are bottled before the fermentation is over, the carbonic acid is retained in the wine, and what is called an ‘‘effervescing” wine is produced. Certain kinds of wine are more favourable than others to this process; and in all countries effervescing wines are produced. In this coun-. try we are most familiar with the effervescing wines of France, which are generally known under the name of champagne. WHocks, mo- selles, and even red wines are treated thus; and, on the cork being removed from the bottle, the carbonic acid begins to escape, and gives them their sparkling effervescent character. When such wines contain much sugar, the fer- mentation in the bottle is arrested before all. the sugar is consumed, and they are sweet effervescing wines. In other cases the sugar is all exhausted in producing the carbonic acid, and such wines are then said to be dry. Sparkling or effervescing wines are agreeable to the palate, and in the same way as bottled ales they some- times appear to assist the digestion of the food with which they are taken. In some cases, how- ever, there can be no doubt that they produce injury. When new, they communicate the state of change in which they are to the contents of the stomach, and interfere with the heaithy process of digestion. They are less liable to disagree when they are dry and contain but little sugar than when they contain much of this substance. The quantity of sugar varies in champagne from one hundred grains in the pint to considerably above an ounce. WIN Wines, H ome-made.— Home-made wines differ chiefly from foreign or grape wines in containing a much greater quantity of malic acid, whilst the wine of the grape contains chiefly tartareous; for it is the presence of super-tartrate of potash by which the grape is most strongly distinguished from all the other sub-acid fruits applied to the purposes of wine- making. This salt is most abundant in the grape before ripening, and a portion of it dis- appears during this process. A consideration of | this diversity led Dr. Macculloch to point out to the public the useful practice of introducing super-tartrate of potash into all those juices of fruits which are intended for the basis of home- made wines. This salt is doubtless decomposed during the fermentative processes, and a con- siderable quantity of what remains is sub- sequently deposited in the casks or bottles in which the wine is kept, constituting what is termed the crust of the wine. Few of our home- made wines possess an intense colour; with the exception of the elderberry, mulberry, and the black cherry, scarcely any colour is contained in our domestic fruits. The colouring of home-made wines may be effected by Dil- berries, mulberries, or the husk of elder- berries; these substances impart « fine red colour to vinous fluids; they are sometimes suffered to ferment with the must, to render the colour more intense. The practice of making wines from the produce of our gardens is deserving of very general attention. Foreign wines are entirely beyond the reach of the poor; and, therefore, the benevolent will en- deavour to supply them, in age and sickness, with the best substitutes which our native fruits will afford. The following domestic fruits are well calcu- lated for the fabrication of wine :—The goose- berry, elderberry, mulberry, raspberry, black- berry, strawberry, red currant, black currant, white currant, and cranberry. These ferments will afford good and wholesome wines. It is a vulgar préjudice to suppose that the wines made from our domestic fruits are unwhole- some. They may disagree with the constitu- tions of some persons, but no fact can warrant the assertion that they are more injurious than wines made from the grape. The pulpy fruits of our gardens, such as the peach, nectarine, plum, cherry, damson, and apricot, may also be employed; but, upon the whole, they answer not so well for the fabrication of wines as the domestic sub-acid esculent berries. The gooseberry and currant are, of all other its, most commonly employed in the fabrica- tion of home-made wines; and, on the whole, they are best adapted for the purpose. When used in their green state, both gooseberry and currant may be made to form light brisk wines, falling little short of champagne. d Ripe gooseberries are capable of making sweet or dry wines; but these are commonly il-flavoured, particularly if the husk has not wbeen carefully excluded. ,., Ripe currants, if properly managed, make much better wines than gooseberries. These fruits are much improved, according to Dr. Macculloch, by boiling previously to fermenta- tion. This, he states, is particularly the case with (1141 ) WIN the black currant, which, when thus managed,. is capable of making a wine closely resembling some of the best of the sweet Cape wines. The strawberry and raspberry are capable of making both dry and sweet wines of agreeable quality. : The elderberry is capable of making an excel- lent red wine. Its cheapness also recommends it. It does not, indeed, possess any great degree of flavour, but it possesses no bad one,. which is a negative property often of great importance in artificial wine-making. The cherry produces a wine of no very peculiar character. If used, care should be taken not to bruise too many of the stones, otherwise a disagreeable bitter taste will be imparted to the wine. _ The blackberry and mulberry are capable of. making coloured wines, if managed with that view: they are deficient, however, in the astrin- gent principle; nevertheless, they may be occasionally employed with advantage when a particular object is to be gained. The sloe and damson are so associated in qualities that nearly the same results are obtained from both. Their juice is acid and astringent, and hence they are qualified only for making dry wines. By a due admixture of currants or elderberries with sloes or damsons, wines not unlike the inferior kinds of port are often produced. . Grapes, of British growth, are capable of making excellent sparkling and other wines by the addition of sugar. The grapes may be used in any state, however immature; when even but half-grown and perfectly hard they succeed perfectly. Raisins are extensively used in this country for making domestic wines, therefore they deserve to be mentioned here. "When properly managed, they are capable of making a pure and fiavourless vinous fluid, well adapted for receiving any flavour which may be required, and thus of imitating many wines of foreign growth. The orange and lemon are likewise used for making domestic wines. Upon the whole, however, they are not very well adapted for the purpose, as they contain too little acid and too little of the extractive or fermentative uice. ; The quince, from its analogy to the apple and pear, is better qualified for making a species of cider than wine. : . The following is the art of making wine from native fruits. We start upon the grounds that home-made wines are intended to be imitations of foreign wines. In the first place, therefore, we have to prepare a juice or must similar to the juice or must of the grape in its general composition. ' Now, no fruit whatever yields a juice precisely similar to that of the grape. In our northern climate, more especially, the sac- charine principle, which is the fundamental basis in wine-making, exists in very minute proportion in most fruits. It must be, there- fore, supplied artificially. The tartaric acid, or rather super-tartrate of potash, which is another essential principle in wine-making, is likewise wanting in most of our fruits. This, therefore, must be supplied. On the contrary, WIN (1142 ) WIN other substances, and particularly the malic acid, exist in too large a proportion in most of our fruits, which, in their natural state, are thus better adapted for making cider than wine. To get rid of the malic acid, and to prevent its deteriorating effects, as well as the deteriorating effects of other foreign principles, is difficult, or perhaps impossible; and’ this will doubtless always render home-made wines inferior to those of the grape, though very near approaches may be made by judicious management: The practical mode of obviating these diffi- culties is to dilute ‘the juice of the fruit to such a degree that a given quantity of it shall contain no more of the malic acid; for example, than a given quantity of the juice of the grape; and, as before observed, to supply artificially the two grand principles, sugar and super- tartrate of potash, which are wanting. Having thus prepared an artificial must as nearly re- sembling in its composition that of the grapes as possible, the application of the other prin- ciples will be obvious, as we have nothing to do but to manage, in general, all the subsequent processes precisely as if we'were operating upon the must of the grape. In manufacturing wine from grapes different methods are pursued according to the kinds of wine which it is‘intended to make. Now the’ same thing holds good in manufacturing home- made wines; it is absolutely necessary that the maker should determine beforehand upon the kind of wine which it is his object to produce,’ and to modify his processes accordingly. We may, with Dr. Macculloch, consider wines as of four general descriptions: sweet wines; sparkling or effervescing wines; dry and light wines, analogous to hock and Rhenish, in which the saccharine principle is entirely decomposed during fermentation; and lastly, dry and strong’ wines, as madeira and sherry. Those of the first and most simple class are the sweet wines, or those in which the fermen- tative process has been incomplete. It is to this class that by far the greater number of our home-made wines bear the greatest resemblance; a resemblance, says Dr. Macculloch, so general, as to show that few makers of this article pos- sess sufficient knowledge of the art to enable them to steer clear of what may be firmly called a radical defect of domestic wines; for so large a quantity of sugar is often added in proportion to the juice of the fruits, that the quantity of natural leaven, or fermentative matter, in the compound, is insufficient for the conversion of the sugar into wine; hence that part of it which remains undecomposed is sweet. The use of the artificial leaven, yeast, may in some measure correct this defect, but the quantity added is generally inadequate to this object. © ‘©The addition of brandy,” says Dr. Mac- culloch, ‘‘so often recommended in the recipes for making fruit wines, so far from checking the wine from becoming sour, increases it; the tendency, and therefore the use of brandy as a preservative of wine, is founded on error. Dr. Macculloch recommends a certain pro- portion of crude tartar; the dose of which may vary from one to six per cent. without materially affecting the wine, as a great proportion of what escapes decomposition will be subsequently deposited. All fruits except the grape will require more or Jess of this salt. : ‘In the manufacture of home-made wines, cara therefore should be taken not to use too smalla proportion of fruit compared with the sugar employed; for it is in this circumstance chiefly which renders the fermentative process in- complete, and thus imparts’ that sweet and mawkish taste to our domestic’ wines which renders them intolerable to many people, and even perhaps‘ to all, without. the addition of brandy. The strength of the wine is always proportional to the quantity of sugar employed, provided that sugar has been completely decomposed:; the most saccharine juices, there- fore, afford the strongest wine; or, in the practice which is necessary in making wine from native fruits, that fluid: will produce the strongest wine to which the greatest quantity of sugar has been added previously to fermen- tation, care being always taken to increase the quantity of leaven in such'a ratio as to insure the complete decomposition of the sugar, without which the produce gains in sweetness only without acquiring additional strength. But even with this precaution there is a limit to the quantity of sugar that can be employed, and this limit is obviously the proportion of water which is réquired to insure the ferment- ing process. The fermentation ‘must continue the longer if it is desired that the produce shall bea dry wine, and for a less time if itis wished to produce a sweet wine. Butif, on the contrary, it is the wish of the operator to preserve the flavour or bouguet of the wine, it is necessary that the period of' the fermentation should be shortened. The case will beprecisely the same if it is an object to have a brisk wine, as the carbonic acid, on which this quality exclusively depends,‘ will be dissipated irrecoverably by an undue protraction of the fermenting process. Wines, Keeping of.—Wine is put into bottles for the sake of keeping it, and the placing these bottles in somo safe and con- venient place called a cellar is technitally called cellaring. Some wines arc not much improved by bottling at all, and these one may drink direct from the cask. In wine countries it is not uncommon to drink the wine directly from the cask as we do beer. This is more especially done with the weaker and cheaper wines, and wine is occasionally thus consumed in this country. “Wine from the wood, is sold in some of our wine shops. Inferior red wines, sherries, and marsala, are said to improve more whilst on tap in the cask than when bottled. Weak wines cannot be kept long in the cask without a danger of the oxygen of the air converting their hydrated oxide of ethyle (alcohol) into the hydrated. tri-oxide of acetyle (vinegar), which is a result very much to be avoided by those who attach importance tothe flavour or strength of their wines. Wine in casks gets altered by the evaporation of the water and the alcohol into the air, and also by the absorption of one or the other by the wood. These changes cannot happen when the wine is put into glass bottles. “Wine can thus bo kept longer in bottles without change than in wood. There isa notion that wine gets stronger a u WIN (1143 ) WIN t by keeping, but this is erroneous. If fermen- tation goes on, a little: more ‘sugar - will be converted into alcohol, but this is not large, even in the case of effervescing wines. It is, therefore, a false notion that wine gets. stronger: by keeping. Strong wines‘ undoubtedly keep best. Wines get altered by keeping, and they get weaker by keeping. They should not-be Kept in hot cellars, nor cold cellars, nor cellars with a changeable temperature. It appears that * a uniform temperature of between 50° and 60°: is the best for all kinds of wine. ‘Wines are said to ripen sooner in warm cellars than in. cold ones, and it is very certain that new wines may be made to assume the flavour of old ones’ by exposing them to high temperatures, and letting them cool again. ‘ This, ‘however, belongs to the art of doctoring.” © 02 The art of preserving wines is to prevent them from fretting, which is done by keeping |: them in the same degree of heat and. careful- working in a cellar where they will not be agitated by the motion of carriages passing. If persons wish to preserve the fine flavour of their wines, they ought on no account to permit: any bacon, cheese, onions, pork, or cider in the wine cellars; for if there be any disagreeable: odour in the cellar, the wine will indubitably: imbibe it; consequently, instead of -being fra- grant and charming to the nose and palate, it will be extremely disagreeable. —-- : Wines, Wholesomeness of.—Wines. may be resolved into two great divisions; into’ those which are coloured, and commonly called - ved wines, and those which havea yellow tinge, more or less deep, termed white wines. This colouring matter is not derived from the juice, ' but from the husk of the grapes. If, therefore, the fermentation be not ‘permitted to take place in contact with the husks, a colourless wine is in all cases produced. This colouring matter is highly astringent, and consequently the red: |: wines differ from the white in their effects upon the stomach; and yet: it is difficult to: explain the well-known extent of this operation by the presence of so small a proportion of active matter. It must, however, be remem- bered that irritable stomachs are frequently impatient of astringent matter.. Many persons’ are incapable of drinking port wine, in con-: sequence of the heartburn it occasions; while others, on the contrary, appear to derive advantage from the tonie influence of its syngency. This is a circumstance of idio- syocracy which no theory can explain. A popular writer remarks, ‘‘ When my stomach is: not in good temper, it generally desires to have red wine; but when, in best health nothing affronts if more than to put port into it; and one of the first symptoms of its coming into adjustment is a wish for white wine. Every Physician is practically aware of the caprice which the stomach displays in its morbid con-: ditions ; but as a general rule it may be stated that white deserves a preference over red wines, because the latter being pressed and subjected io @ stronger fermentation to extract the louring principle from the husk are neces- arily more loaded with extractive and as- tringent matter; and as this remains in the stomach atter the liquid portion of the wine: ‘is absorbed, it will be liable to occasion dis-. turbance.” ot aed Soom ig It is a fact not easily explained that the ‘stomach is frequently outraged by a wine to which it has not been accustomed ; and it is, ‘equally true that a mixture of different wines, - ‘ls @ common source of indigestion. The cus-. tom of mixing wine with water has its advan- tages as well as its evils. By dilution. it frequently -proves too little stimulant: tg the stomach, and runs into a state of. sacescency. An invalid is: also thus liable to deceive him- ‘self by taking more wine than may be con- ‘sistent with his welfare. Much, however, ‘depends upon the quality of the wine. taken ; the lighter wines cannot require dilution, while port is certainly rendered less injurious’ by the ‘admixture. Winged Game, Sauce for.—Take a ‘quarter of a'pint of the gravy which runs from the birds, put it'into a saucepan, witha clove of garlic, 4 few péppercorns, a dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice, a tea-spoonful of salad-oil, and the thin rind of a quarter of a Seville orange cut ‘into strips. Boil the gravy till it is pleasantly ‘flavoured, skim and’ strain it, add a glassful ‘of ‘wine, and salt to taste, and serve.’ Time to boil the gravy, about quarter of an hour. Sufficient for six or seven persons. Winter, Butter Preserved for use in.—Work some good butter, which is neither strong nor rank, with cold water till it is perfectly free from milk. Mix thoroughly a quarter of a pound of powdered saltpetre with an equal quantity of powdered white sugar and half a pound of common salt. Work an ounce of this mixture into each pound of butter, pack ‘it closely in stone jars, and fasten it down. If not exposed to the air, it will keep good for a long time. ‘Winter Cheesecakes (sce Cheesecakes, . Winter). Winter Hotch Potch.—Soak three- quarters of a pound of dried green peas over- night, then boil them till tender, and pulp them through a sieve. Take from three to four pounds of the best end of the neck or loin of mutton, or of the thick flank of beef. ‘Hither cut the meat into neat pieces or keep it whole, as preferred. Grate four carrots, and cut as many turnips into small dice. Put them, with a few sticks of celery and a large onion, or a leek and a bunch of parsley, into a stewpan, pour over them about four quarts of water, and bring them gently to the boil. Put in the meat, add. pepper and salt, and simmer all gently together for about two hours. Add the pulped peas, boil quarter of an hour longer, and serve. If liked, a cabbage, finely shred, may be added to the other vegetables. The meat may either be served with the soup or on a separate dish. If liked, it may be taken: out when it is. done enough, and ‘put aside till it is to be served, then heated again ina little of the soup. Rice or pearl barley may be substituted for the peas. ‘Time, two hours to stew the Vegatabies. Probable cost, 4s. Sufficient for eight or ten persons. WIN (1144 ) WIN Winter Hotch-Potch (another way).— This dish may either be made of fresh beef or of a neck or back ribs of mutton, or of a mix- ture of both. Cut four pounds of meat into neat pieces. Boil and skim well, add carrots and turnips sliced, small leeks and parsley cut down, and some German greens shred; and, if ‘tender, put in only half an hour before the soup is completed. Season with pepper and salt. The quantity of vegetables must be regulated by the quantity of meat, so that the soup may have consistency, but not be dis- agreeably thick. Serve the meat and soup together. Rice or dry but melting green peas may, if liked, be boiled in the soup. Winter J oy Mosaic.— Boil half a pint of cream. hen it boils, infuse the peel either of an orange or of a lemon, according as you wish to decorate the jelly with either. ‘When the cream has imbibed the flavour of the fruit, put in a little sugar. Break the yolks of four eggs, which beat with the cream, lay it on the fire to thicken, and then put in some isin- glass that has previously been melted. Strain the whole through a hair sieve, and put it ina basin, well covered, on some ice, in order that it may get quite firm. Now take the mould which you intend to use, brush it lightly with oil all over the inside, and then cut the white cream jelly with a knife in the first place, and next with small tin cutters. Decorate the mould without putting it on ice, for the damp would prevent the decoration from sticking on. Decorate the bottom first, next the sides; then only put the mould over ice. Now pour a little orange jelly lightly, not to injure the decora- tion, and let it get thick. "When the orange jelly is frozen, thrust the mould deeper into the ice; then put a little more jelly to the height of the lower decoration on the sides; let the preparation be made firm again. Mind, the jelly is never to come higher than the flowerets till the bottom has been first made firm, then gradually ascend to the top. Cover and sur- round the mould with ice. When you wish to serve up, dip a towel into some hot water, and rub the mould all round. Ascertain that none of the jelly sticks to the sides before you meddle with the bottom of the mould; then rub the bottom with the hot towel, and turn the jelly neatly into a dish. Were it not for all these precautions, the two colours would melt and mix with one another. This jelly looks beautiful when well made. N.B.—It is to be observed, that this jelly can only be made in winter, hence its name; for during the summer season it would melt, except made hard, then it would not be good; however, you may work it in a very cold place. Winter Salad, Endive with (see En- dive with Winter Salad). Winter Salads.—In winter-time excellent salads may be made with endive, celery, beet- root, scraped horseradish, boiled potatoes, or whatever vegetables are available. A pretty effect may be produced by contrasting the different colours of the ingredients. Two or three recipes are given for the preparation of a dish which may be varied in numberless ways. No. 1. Wash thoroughly in two or three waters a head of endive and another of celery. Dry them perfectly, and put with them a small pro- portion of red cabbage finely shred, and some mustard and cress, if it is to be had. Rub the inside of a salad bowl with a slice of fresh onion, put in the mixed vegetables, toss them. lightly in good salad sauce, garnish the salad with slices of boiled beetroot,. and serve. No. 2. Wash a head of endive, dry it perfectly, and shred it finely. Place it in the centre of a dish, and arrange neatly round it, first, a little red cabbage, and then some white celery cut up small. Garnish the salad with sliced beet- root and hard-boiled eggs, cut into quarters lengthwise. Send the sauce to table in a boat, and mix it with the salad at the moment of serving. No. 3. Take equal portions of pickled cabbage, fresh celery, and cold boiled potato— one pound of each. Cut the celery into small pieces, throw it into boiling water for ten. minutes, and drain it. Drain the cabbage from its vinegar, mix it with the celery, and add the cold boiled potatoes thinly sliced. Pepper the salad, toss it lightly in three table-spoonfuls of good Lucca oil, add a table-spoonful of chopped tarragon leaves, and serve. No. 4. Boil some smali onions; let them get cold, then place them at the bottom of a salad bowl, and put round them three or four gherkins chopped small. Cover with pieces of herring or an- chovy, and add a liberal allowance of pickled tunny or salmon. Sprinkle a little chopped parsley and a table-spoonful of bruised capers over the salad, and garnish with hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters lengthwise, and olives from which the kernels have been removed. Serve a good sauce with the salad. Cold boiled potatoes, brussels sprouts, endive, or celery, will be a valuable addition. Beetroot and raw apples may also be added. No. 5. Procure two heads of celery; wash and dry them, and cut the white stalks into pieces an inch long. Toss them lightly in a salad bowl with some mayonnaise sauce. Cover the surface with hard-boiled yolk of egg which has been rubbed through a wire sieve; sprinkle a tea-spoonful of chopped green parsley over the egg, and garnish th celery with a border of boiled beet- root, cut into thin strips and arranged like trellis-work. Two or three black truffles, chopped small and sprinkled over the egg yolk, will have a very good appearance and improve the flavour of the salad. German sausage or. pink ham, thinly sliced, may be served round the salad. Cold dressed vegetables, finely shred, and seasoned with pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar, may be served as a salad (see also Russian Salad). Winter Snow.—Take the white of six eggs, which will be enough for an entremet;. whip them till they get thick; have some milk boiling over the fire in a large stewpan; poach several spoonfuls of the whites in it, and when done enough, drain and dish them. Next, make a sauce to pour over them in the follow- ing manner: take some of the milk in which you have poached your eggs, then put a little sugar, a little orange-flower, and a little salt; mix the yolks of four eggs with the same, stir WIN (1145 ) woo the whole on the fire till the milk is made thick, put it through a tammy, and mask the neiges with that sauce. Winter Soup.—Break into small pieces the bones of a joint of dressed beef which weighed six or seven pounds before it was roasted. Put these into a stewpan, pour over them four quarts of cold water, or the liquor in which fresh beef or mutton has been boiled, and add two large onions sliced, a tea-spoonful of whole pepper, and a dessert-spoonful of salt. Bring the liquor to the boil, skim carefully, draw it back, and let it simmer gently till the bones are quite clean. Strain the liquor, let it go cold, and free it entirely from fat. Wash and scrape eight large carrots. Slice the red part only very thinly. Put the slices into a stewpan with three or four sticks of celery cut up small, and a turnip cut into dice. Placea large lump of dripping or fresh butter upon the vegetables, cover the saucepan closely, and steam the vegetables for quarter of an hour or more. Shake the saucepan occasionally to keep them from burning. Pour over them as much of the stock from the bones as will cover them, and let them simmer till quite tender. Rub them through a4 hair sieve. Add to the pulp as much stock as will make the soup of the consistency of thick cream; let it boil again, add salt and pepper to taste, and serve very hot. Very small suet dumplings, lightly made and boiled separately in water, are sometimes served in winter soups. Time, four hours to simmer the bones. Probable cost, exclusive of the bones, 10d. Sufficient for ten. or twelve persons. Winter Soup, Clear.—A short time be- fore it is wanted, clarify some stock made from fresh meat (see Clear Soup). Cut the red part of two large carrots and a turnip into quarter- inch dice. Divide two white stalks of celery into shreds, and skin a dozen button-onions. Half boil the vegetables in salted water to which a little sugar has been added. Drain them, and put them into a stewpan with about three pints of the clear stock, boiling. Let them simmer till tender, and serve. Winter Squash.—The squash is a kind of gourd, which is cultivated in America as an article of food. To dress it, pare a large yellow squash, remove the strings and seeds from the inside, and cut it into small pieces. Put these into a stewpan, pour upon them as much hot water as will cover them, and simmer ‘gently till tender. Drain them in a colander, and mash them till quite smooth. Season the mash with pepper and salt, and mix a slice of fresh butter into it. Put it into a tureen, dot it over with small spots of pepper, garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve. Time to simmer the squash, half an hour or more. Winter Squash (an American recipe).— Winter squashes are stewed in the same way as others, but they must remain on the fire a little longer. Cut wp the squashes in pieces of an inch thick, having first pared the squash; if old, extract the seeds and boil the pieces until _ they break, mash them with a spoon, boil them alittle longer, and when they are done squeeze them through a colander. Mix them with a little salt and a small quantity of butter. If kept in a dry place winter squashes will re- main good all the winter, but if they are once frozen they lose their flavour and are apt to decay. They are richer and firmer than the summer kind. Wisdom Soup.—Take a pound of beef, a pound of veal, and a pound of mutton, cut and hacked all to pieces, put it into two gallons of water with an old cock beat to pieces, a piece of carrot, the upper crust of a penny loaf toasted very crisp, a little bundle of sweet herbs, an onion, a tea-spoonful of black and one of white pepper, four or five blades of macc, and four cloves; cover it and stew over a slow fire until half is wasted, then strain it off and put it into a clean saucepan with two or three large spoonfuls of raspings clean sifted, half.an ounce of truffles and morels, three or four heads of celery cut small, an ox’s palate first boiled tender and cut into small pieces, a few cocks’- combs, and a few of the little hearts of young savoys; cover it close, and let it simmer very softly over a slow fire two hours; then have ready a French roll fried, and a few forcemeat balls fried, put them in your dish and pour in your soup. You may boil a leg of veal, and a leg of beef, and as many fine things as you like, but this is likely to be rich and high enough. You may leave out the cocks’-combs, palates, and truffles, &c., if you don’t like them —it will be good soup without them; and if you would have your soup very clear don’t put in the raspings. Vermicelliis good in it—an ounce put in just before you take it up; let it boil four or five minutes. You may make this soup of beef or veal alone, just as you fancy. A leg of beef will do without either veal, mutton, or fowl. Witches, Witches). Wolfram Ketchup.—Into two gallons of very stale ale—the stronger the better—put « pound and a half of anchovies washed and cleansed from the entrails, half an ounce of mace, the same quantity of cloves, a quarter of an ounce of allspice, the same quantity of long pepper, four chillies, half a dozen lumps of ginger, a pound of shallots, six lumps of sugar, and two quarts and a half of large mushrooms well rubbed and picked. Boil all this slowly in a well-tinned stewpan during an hour, then run the liquor through a jelly-bag. Let it stand until cold, then bottle it, cork. the bottles well, tie a bit of bladder over each cork, and cover the bladder with sealing-wax. This is the most delicious of fish sauces, and one table- spoonful of it will suffice fora pint of melted butter. This ketchup will keep good more than twenty years. Wonders.—These cakes are made thus: Take one table-spoonful of butter, one of sugar, one egg, and a little spice. Mix stiff with flour, and boil in lard. ‘Wood, Bread made from.—tThat it is possible to make a palatable and nutritious bread from the dry ligneous part of wood, was, shown many yearsago by Professor Autenrieth Bermuda (see Bermuda woo of Tubingen. The following is his process, as we find it stated by Dr. Prout, in the “ Philoso- phical Transactions” for 1827 :—‘‘In the first place, everything that was soluble in water was removed by frequent maceration and. boiling. The wood was then reduced to a minute state of division—that is to say, not merely into fine fibres, but actual powder; and after. being repeatedly subjected to the heat of an, oven, was ground in the manner of corn. Wood thus prepared, according to the author, acquires the taste and smell of corn-flour. It is, however, never very white, but always: of a yellowish colour. It also agrees with corn-flour in this respect, that it does not ferment without the addition of leaven, and in this case some leaven of corn-flour is found to answer best. With this it makes a perfectly uniform and spongy bread, and when it is thoroughly baked and has much crust, it has a much better taste of bread than what is made in times ‘of scarcity, prepared from the bran and husks of corn. Wood-flour, also, boiled in water, forms a thick, tough, trembling jelly, like that of wheat starch, and which is very nutritious.” Woodcock.—Woodcocks, like snipe, are only good when they are fat, They arc cooked but in a very few ways. The most delicate parts are the legs and the intestines. The fillets of woodcocks, for those persons who do not like their meat underdone, are tough, and without savour. They are held in high esti- mation when roasted or en salmi (as a hash). A purée of woodcocks is also served occa- sionally. They may, however, be dressed in as many ways as young partridges. When roasted, you must always put a toast under them to receive the intestines, which generally drop out while roasting unless paper is used to secure them. Take care to stop the spit ~ when the back is towards the fire, because the Bias are to:be well done and the fillets under- one. THE WOODCOCK. Woodcock (a la Lucullus).— Roast the woodcocks in the usual way, and catch the trail ona toast. Take the birds up when they are (1146 ) woo still under-dressed, pour over them a little melted butter with which the yolk of an egg and a little cream has been mixed, sprinkle grated bread-crumbs lightly over them, brown them in a Dutch oven or with a salamander, and serve with brown gravy. Time to roast the woodcocks, fifteen to twenty’ minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. — Woodcock (a la Périgueux).—Truss three woodeocks, cover them with layers of bacon, and tie these on securely with string. Put them into a stewpan, pour over them as much richly-flavoured stock as will barely cover them, and add a glassful‘of sherry or madeira. Let them simmer ‘gently till done enough. Drain them, and remove the tapes. Put them on a dish, pour over them some Périgueux or truffle sauce, and serve. Woodcock, Chaud Froid of.—Truss four woodcocks, and to keep them from ac- quiring any colour, wrap them in buttered writing-paper. Roast before a clear fire, let them get cold, and cut them into neat joints. Make a little highly-seasoned and stiffly-reduced’ allemande sauce. Cover the joints of wood- cock evenly with this, and put them on a dish in a cold place till it is set. Put in the centre of a dish a block of fried bread three inches high and an inch and a half across. Place the woodcock round this in a pyramidal form, and ornament the dish with aspic jelly. Woodeock, Devilled.—Divide a brace of under-dressed woodcocks into neat joints, and season the pieces with a savoury powder made in the proportion of a tea-spoontul of salt to a tea-spoonful of' curry-powder, a tea-spoonful of cayenne, and a dessert-spooniul of mushroom- powder. Split the heads, take out the brains and put them in a basin with the trail, the yolk of a‘hard-boiled egg, the grated rind of half a lemon, a pinch of pounded mace, and a table- spoonful of soy. Rub ‘the mixture with the back of a wooden spoon till it is smooth, and add the juice of two Seville oranges, a table- spoonful of ketchup, and a glassful of madeira or ‘sherry. Put the sauce with the birds into a silver dish over a spirit lamp, stir occasion- ‘| ally, and simmer gently till. it is very hot ‘and the flesh has become thoroughly impreg- nated with the liquor. Stir in quickly a dessert-spoonful of salad oil, and serve im- mediately. Woodcock, Fillets of.— Take six ' ‘woodcocks, cut neatly the fillets from each side of the breast and the slices from the sides. Season them all with peppor and salt. Put the large fillets into w saucepan, pour clarified ‘butter over them, cover with a round of but- tered paper, and let them cook gently till done enough. Put the small fillets into a buttered baking-dish, place a little piece of truffle upon each, and bake in a gentle oven. Arrange the fillets neatly in a circle on a dish,, put a little truffle purée in the centro, and serve with brown gravy in a boat. Woodcock, Gravy for:—Plain melted butter or’gravy is generally served with wood- cocks. It should be put in a tureen, as if it were poured into thé dish with the birds, it Woo (1147) ‘woo would destroy their flavour: A sauce prepared as follows may, if ‘preferred, be sent to table with the birds. Put a tea-cupful of veal stock into a. saucepan with a small onion, half an inch of thin lemon-rind, and five or six leaves of basil. Let the gravy simmer fora few minutes, then strain it. Put with it the juice of a Seville orange or of a lemon, a glassful of clayet, and alittle salt and cayenne. Make it hot, and serve immediately. Woodcock, ‘Gra —See Orange Gravy for Woodcocks, &c. ‘Woodcock, Marinaded (see Grouse or Woodcock, Marinaded), ae tee ae Woodcock Pie (to be eaten cold).—Line the edges of a dish with good puff-paste. Put aslice of lean veal well seasoned with. pepper, salt, and pounded mace at the bottom, and on this place a slice of thin lean ham. Pluck four woodcocks carefully, so as not to. injure the ten- der flesh. .Do not open them, but season with pepper, salt, and mace, and cover them with, layers of bacon. Pack them closely into the dish, and fill up the empty spaces with hard- boiled plovers’ or hens’ eggs. Pour over them a pint of strong beef. gravy, so strong that it will jelly when cold, and cover the dish with pastry. Brush it over with egg; ornament it, and place in the centre two or three of the feet nicely cleaned. Bake the pie in a well-heated oven, for (another’ way). eal, Widgeon, Snipes, until the pastry is done enough. A woodcock | pie is considered a rare delicacy, though it is rather an expensiveone. Time to bake the pie, an hour or more. Probable cost, uncertain, woodcoclcs bei...; seldom for sale. : Woodcock, Potted.—Take any number of fresh ‘woodcocks. and cut off their legs and wings. Split the birds in halves, and lay them ona dish. Take away the gizzards with the point of a knife, and with this exception, leave the inside or trail undisturbed. Line the inside of an ordinary potting-pan with thin slices of fat bacon. Fill tt with the woodcocks placed neatly and closely in layers upon the bacon, and season each layer with salt and black pepper. "When the pan is full, pour as much’ clarified butter over’ the woodcocks as will cover them, and cover the jan with a coarse paste of flour and water. ake a hole in the top of the lid, and bake the’ woddcocksin a moderate oven. They must not be ‘eaten till they are quite cold. When a skewer can be pushed easily to the bottom of the pan, the woodcocks are sufficiently baked. ‘, - Woodcock, Potted (another way).—Pick: J. and clean the birds nicely, but do not draw out. the trail; fix the bills with small skewers to. the thighs, and the legs on the breasts ; season. them highly with mace, pepper, and salt, and put them.into a deep pot with fresh. butter to bake in a moderate oven. "When done enough, take them out to drain on a sieve, and when cold, place them in pots, and cover them com- pletely with clarified butter. Tie them securely from the air with bladder, and set them in a dry place. Woodcock, Potted Rub the woodcocks very we ‘another way).— with seasoning, Pluck them carefully, then surround each with a coating of butter, and then with a buttered paper, over which put a paste of flour and water. Lay them upon tins, and’ bake’them. ‘Do not take off the crust and paper till the woodcocks are cold. Put one in each pot, and cover it with clarified butter. The woodcocks must not be drawn. Woodcock Pudding.—Pluck a wood- cock very carefully, so as not to injure the tender flesh, and, without opening it, truss it for roasting. ‘Line a pudding-basin with pastry. Put into it a slice of tender rump steak seasoned with: pepper and salt only, put in the woodcock, and place another steak over it. Pour over the meat a quarter of a pint of strong beef gravy, cover the basin with pastry, tie it rather loosely in a floured cloth, plunge it into boiling water, and keep it boiling till done enough. Take it up, let it stand a few minutes, turn it upon a dish, and serve. Time to boil the pudding two hours anda half. Probable cost, woodcocks, seldom bought. Sufficient for four or five persons. Woodcock Purée (for patties, crou- stades, &c.).—Take the remains of dressed | woodcock. Pick the flesh from the bones, and put the skin, -bones, and trimmings into a saucepan, pour over them a, little stock or water, and add a shallot, a small piece of celery, a sprig of thyme, and three or four pepper- corns. Let the gravy-simmer gently till it is strong and good.. Mince the flesh finely, and pound it in a mortar with a spoonful of stock and a little piece of butter. When reduced toa pulp,,rub it through a hair sieve. Strain the stock, free it entirely from fat, and boil till it is considerably reduced. Season with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg, and mix with it double the quantity of white sauce. If. this is not at hand, a quarter of a.pint of cream and a small spoonful of flour will answer the same purpose. Put the pulp into the sauce, stir it over the fire till it is hot, and it will be ready for use. ‘Time, an hour and a half or more to simmer the bones. Probable cost, un- certain, woodcocks being seldom bought. ' Woddcock Raised Pie, Cold.—Make some good veal forcemeat. Bone four wood- cocks. Put the bones and trimmings into a saucepan with a shallot, a small onion, and a sprig of thyme, and cover’ them, with stock. Let them simmer till the gravy is strong and good. Remove the gizzard from the trail, then pound it, and. mix it with the forcemeat. “Place the woodcocks, skin downwards, open upon a board, spread over them first a layer of force- meat, then two or three sliced truffles, and another layer of’ forcemeat. old the skin over, and restore the’ bird to something of its original shape. Line a pie-mould with pastry . (see Raised Pies). Put a layer of forcemeat at _the bottom, place two woodcocks on this, cover them with a few slices of truffle and a thin layer of forcemeat, put in the other two wood- cocks with a little more truffle and another layer of forcemeat, and place some thin slices of fat bacon over all. Cover the pie, and finish in the usual way. Bake in a moderate oven. Half an hour after it has been taken out of the oven, pour into it a little of the gravy from ths woo ( 1148 ) woo bones, which should be strong enough to form a jelly when cold (see Raised Pies of Game and Poultry). Close the hole in the cover, and when the pie is cold, serve on a dish covered with a napkin. Woodcock Raised Pie, Hot.—Pre- pare some forcemeat asin the last recipe. Divide four woodcocks into quarters. Linea pie-mould with pastry (see Raised Pies), and fill it with alternate layers of forcemeat and pieces of woodcock. Cover it, and bake in a moderate oven. Take it out, pour into it some good brown sauce made of the trimmings of the woodcock stewed in beef gravy. Serve hot upon a dish covered with a napkin. If liked, a hollow place may be left in the centre of the pie, into which a piece of the crumb of bread, covered with fat bacon, may be put, whilst the pie is being baked. When done enough, this hollow may be filled with sliced truffles mixed in brown sauce. Woodcock, Roast.—Pluck the wood- cocks carefully, neck and head as well. Do not open them, but truss them securely (sce Woodcock, Trussed). Fasten them feet down- wards to a spit, put them down to « brisk clear fire, flour them, and baste liberally with dripping or butter. When they have been down about five minutes, put a buttered toast, free from crust, under them, to catch the drop- pings from the trail. After this is done, holda dish under them when they are basted. When the steam draws to the fire, they are done enough. Dish them with a piece of toast under each, and garnish with watercresses. Send melted butter or orange gravy to table inatureen. It is an improvement to cover the woodcocks with slices of bacon before putting them down to the fire, and, when they are to be had, two or three vine-leaves may be laid under the bacon. Time to roast the woodcocks, if liked underdone, fifteen to twenty minutes; if liked well dressed, twenty-five- to thirty minutes. Probable cost, uncertain. Sufficient, two for a dish. Woodcock, Roast (another way).— There is more art in roasting woodcocks than any other bird of the same size. They require constant attention during the operation of roasting them. As they must be very little dressed—the flesh of the woodcock, like that of all dark-fleshed game, being digestible when almost raw, and losing its savour if roasted to the same degree as a partridge—their oooking cecupies but little time; therefore the cook should never leave her woodcocks from the moment they are put down until she takes them up. Truss without drawing them, and put toast under them to catch the trail, which often falls from them when they are before the fire. The most delicate parts of the woodcock are the legs and the trail; next, the breast. As this latter must be very much underdone, and the legs a little better done, to be eatable, there is, of course, an inequality in their roasting, which raust be obviated by stopping the spit for a time whenever the legs are turned to- wards the fire, in order to give them a greater proportion of heat. The woodcocks when done are served up upon the toast with melted butter only, as their flavour woald be deteriorated by any kind of gravy. Woodcock, Salmi of.—Take the re- mains of cold dressed woodcocks, and cut off the meat in neat pieces. Place these in a covered dish, and put them aside till wanted. Remove the gizzards from the trail, then chop it fine, and mix with it a spoonful of bread-crumbs, a small slice of butter, and a spoonful of chopped parsley. Put this also aside. - Scrape a carrot, and put the pulp into a saucepan with two shallots, two cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, six peppercorns, and half a dozen mushrooms, if liked, but these may be omitted. Pour over the ingredients a pint of gravy, and let them simmer for an hour. Strain the liquor, and free it entirely from fat. Bruise the bones and trimmings of the woodcocks, put them into the strained liquor, and simmer till they are quite clean. Take the bones out, and send the gravy and the little pieces of meat that are in it through a sieve, and add a glassful of sherry or madeira. Put the pieces of woodcock into a saucepan, pour the gravy over them, and let them heat gently by the side of the fire. Of course they must not boil. Toast one or two slices of crumb of bread, and divide them into five or six pieces of the shape of a heart. Spread the minced trail upon them, and put them in a hot oven for a few minutes. Place the pieces of woodcock on a dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with the heart- shaped crotitons. Time, two to three hours. Woodcock, Salmi of (another way).— Draw the gravy from a pound of gravy beef with a bit of lean ham, and a sheep’s milt added to it. Then take a few shallots, a handful of mushrooms chopped, a few strips of ham, a carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, such as we have indicated for the salmi of partridges, two cloves, half a dozen of peppercorns, and the samo number of blades of allspice. Fry all this for a short time in a stewpan with a little butter, then pour in a quarter of 4 pint of madeira or sherry, and the gravy above mentioned. Put in also the backs and necks of the birds, leaving the rumps with the other limbs for the salmi. Let all this stew very quietly. Season to taste, and at the expiration of a couple of hours strain the sauce. Then put into a stewpan about an ounce and a half of butter, and, when this boils, half a spoonful of flour. Stir the mixture as it boils until it has assumed a rich blonde colour; then add gradually the sauce, and let it boil a quarter of an hour longer. Squeeze in the juice of alemon. If you have the trail, pound it, and mix it well with the sauce. Strain this over the woodcock into another stewpan. This latter must now be stood near the fire, so that it may heat without boiling. When the meat is fully penetrated with the sauce, serve it up very hot with fried sippets. As a variation from this mode, red wine may be substituted for white. Woodcock, Salmi of (4 la Lucullus).— Ude’s recipe.—For this dish you must be par- ticular in having the woodcocks very much underdone; then take out the intestines, and woo ( 1149 ) Woo with the addition of two or three fat livers of fowls make the following forcemeat :—Take half a dozen mushrooms chopped very fine, a shallot and some parsley the same; fry these herbs in a small bit of butter. When they are nearly done, put the fat, livers, and the intestines of the woodcocks to fry with them, and when done put the whole into a mortar and pound them very fine; season with salt and pepper, &c.; rub this through a tammy ; then, as three woodcocks give you six fillets, cut six bits of bread of the same shape, fry them of a nice colour, then spread the farce (forcemeat) equally divided over the six pieces of bread, put them into the oven, and when they are a good colour serve them between each of the fillets; as for the sauce, you make it with the trimmings as usual for salmi: this, well managed, is a deli- cious dish. The sauce must be made early, so as to keep the fillets in it to prevent them from drying ; then warm them without boiling, for boiling would make the dish good for nothing. Serve the legs in the middle. Woodcock, Scotch, or Woodcock Toast.—Take a slice of bread from a moderate- sized stale loaf, also three anchovies, one egg, and two or three table-spoonfuls of thick cream. Beat the yolk of the egg, mix it with the cream, and stir the mixture over the fire till it thickens, but it must not boil. Toast the bread, butter well on both sides, and cut it in halves. Wash, scrape, and mince the anchovies, put them between the pieces of toast, pour the cream, &c., over the toast, and serve as hot as possible. Time, five minutes to make the sauce hot. Probable cost, 6d. Sufficient for one person. Woodcock (sportsman’s fashion).—Truss three woodcocks, and put them down to a clear fire. At the end of a quarter of an hour take them up, and divide them into neat joints. Put the inferior portions into a saucepan, with four minced shallots and a sprig of thyme, and add a wine-glassful of good gravy, another of wine, a table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and the strained juice of halfalemon. Let the gravy simmer for ten minutes. Remove the gizzards from the trail of the woodcocks, and pound them in a mortar, with half a shallot, a slice of fresh butter, and a little pepper and salt. When smooth, rub it through a sieve, and spread it upon some small pieces of fried bread cut into the shape of hearts. Before using these, put them in the oven for two or three minutes. Put the joints of the woodcocks into a separate saucepan, strain the gravy upon them, and let them heat gently without boiling. Place them on a dish, put the fried bread, with the trail, round them, pour the gravy over all, and serve very hot. Time, quarter of an hour to roast the woodcocks; ten minutes to simmer the gravy. Woodcock, Spurious.—Some years ago @ curious deception used to be practised by the inferior poulterers in London upon genuine cockneys, who were ambitious of having game at their tables. ‘The grey plover was some- times trussed like a woodcock, its bill cut off, and the bill of a real woodcock inserted instead; the bills of these latter birds being purchased from the cooks of wealthy families.” If such a deception is ever practised nowadays, the obvious way to discover the fraud would be to give the bill a good tug.” Woodcock, Stuffed.—Pluck and singe the birds, take out the inside, chop it fine with bacon, parsley, onion, salt, and pepper; mix it with the yolks of two eggs; fill the woodcocks with this forcemeat, sew them together, and truss as for roasting. Cover the bottom of a stewpan with thin slices of bacon, put in the birds, and cover them also with bacon ; let them simmer for a quarter of an hour, pour in a cup- ful of broth and half a glassful of white wine; let it boil over a gentle fire. When done enough, take out the birds and lay them on a dish ; skim the fat off the sauce, strain it, add a dash of vinegar, and pour it over the birds. Woodcock, Stuffed and Roasted.— Pluck and draw two woodcocks. Remove the gizzards, then mince the trail finely with half its weight in fat bacon, and add a dessert- spoonful of chopped parsley and a little pepper and salt. A little very finely-minced shallot may be added, if liked. Truss the woodcocks, and roast them in the usual way. Send them to table with gravy in a tureen. Woodcock, Surprised.—Put the trail of the cold woodcocks, and two or three fat livers of fowls, upon a plate in readiness. Then chop very fine a dozen mushrooms, two shal- lots, and a little parsley, and fry them in a stewpan with a small bit of fresh butter. When they are nearly done, put the trail and livers to fry a little with the vegetables. Pound the whole in a marble mortar very fine, mixing the several ingredients well together. Season with salt, pepper, and the least possible dash of pounded mixed spice. Now fry of a nice colour six slices of bread of the same size and shape, and spread over them in equal portions the forcemeat you have just made with the trails of the woodcocks and the fowls’ livers. Put them into the oven until they are of a good colour, then lay them on a dish, and over them place the limbs of the birds made into a salmi in the usual way, and pour the salmi sauce over the whole. Woodcock, Terrine of (M. Dubois’s recipe).—Bone two woodcocks, divide each of them in two, which pieces put into a pie-dish (terrine) with five or six peeled truffles cut in quarters, the same volume of cooked ham-fat, or fat bacon, in large dice. Season the meat and truffles lightly, and baste with the third part of a glass of madeira. Take off the flesh from a leg of hare, cut it in pieces, fry it in a stew- pan, with double its volume of liver of poultry or game. When well set, add the trails of the woodcocks, then let the whole cool, to be chopped afterwards with a third its volume of lean pork. Season the forcemeat, put it into a mortar, pound, and add to it the same quantity of fresh fat bacon, previously chopped, and pounded with the trimmings of truffles. Season the forcemeat with a pinch of pounded aro- matics; five minutes after remove it into 2 kitchen basin, and mix with it the madeira the woo ( 1150 ) WRE woodcocks have been soaking in. Mask the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with some of the prepared forcemeat, arrange the pieces of woodcock, the truffles, and the ham in. the centre, alternating with forcemeat. The pie- dish must then be completely full; smooth the top with the blade of a knife, and mask it with slices of bacon. Cover the preparation, and set the pie-dish in a sauté-pan with a glassful of hot water, and push it into a moderate oven, to bake for an hour and a half. When done, take it out; and when half-cold, put a light weight on the top of the preparation. When completely cold, take it off the pie, cut it in oblong squares, which dish in a circular order into the terrine. Woodcock, Trussed.—Pluck the bird entirely, head and neck included, and very carefully, to avoid tearing the tender skin. Singe off the hairs and cut off the ends of the toes, but do not draw the birds. Twist the legs at the joints to bring the feet upon the thighs. Press the wings to the sides, and turn the head under the wing, with the beak forward. Tie a string round the legs and breast, and pass one also round the head and the tip of the bill. Hang the bird to the spit feet-downwards. Wood-hens uae fashion). —.Take three or four wood-hens (gélinottes), truss them, put them into a stewpan with ‘butter, season, and fry them all over. When about done, baste them with a few table-spoonfuls of sour cream, and finish cooking them, basting fre- quently. Drain them afterwards, cut each of them into three parts, and dish them up. Mix a little béchamel into the sauce, which reduce until of a good consistence, then pour it over the wood-hens, masking them with a thick coating. Sprinkle over bread-crumbs, let them gratinate in the oven till the sauce is slightly coloured. Wood-hens, Pain of (Swedish fashion). —Take out the meat from the breasts of three wood-hens (gé¢linottes), pare, pound it in a mortar, and when converted into paste add, by degrees, half its volume of good butter and five or six yolks of eggs. Season, the prepara- tion, pass it through ,a sieve, put it into 4 kitchen basin, work it with a wooden spoon for a few minutes, then introduce into it the glair of an egg whipped up, and about the same quantity of whipped cream. "When well mixed up, pour the preparation into a timbale mould, and poach at the “bain-marie” for twenty-five minutes: When about to serve turn it out on a dish, and mask with a little béchamel sauce, reduced with a few table- spoonfuls of meat-glaze. Woodman’s , Sausages.-—.Take, _six pounds of young pork, quite. free from skin, gristle, or fat, cut it small, and beat it fine ina mortar. Chop six pounds of beef suet very fine, shred a handful of sage-leaves fine, spread the meat on a clean dregser, and shake the sage over it; shred the rind of a lemon very fine, and throw it with sweet herbs an the meat; grate two nutmegs, to which put a spoonful of pepper and a large spoonful of salt, throw the suet over, and mix all well together; put it down close in the pot, and when, used roll it up with as much egg as will muke it, smooth. Wood Pigeons.—Wood pigeons should be allowed to hang’ till tender before being dressed. They may be roasted, and served like common pigeons. Woodruff.—The woodruff is a fragrant little plant, which is found plentifully in woods and shady places. The odour is only percep- tible when the leaves are bruised, or when. they are dried.. Woodruff is used to flavour May wine (see May Wine). my Worcester Sauce, To Make.—Mince two cloves of shallot, put the mince into a dry bottle, and pour over it a pint of Bordeaux vinegar. Add three table-spoonfuls of essence of anchovy, three table-spoonfuls of walnut ketchup, two table-spoonfuls of soy, and as much cayenne as is approved: the quantity cannot be given, as cayenne varies so much in quality. Cork the bottle, keep it in a cool place, and shake it well twice a day for a fort- night. Strain the sauce, put itin small bottles, cork closely, and store for use. : Wormwood Lozenges.—Dissolve some gum tragacanth in water, and mix with it a little. spirit of wormwood::' Add ag much powdered loaf sugar as will make a stiff paste, and beat the-mixture thoroughly. Roll it out to a sheet of the thickness.of a penny-piece, stamp it into diamond-shaped pieces, and: dry these in a cool oven. Wormwood Wine (sce Vermoute). Wow Wow Sauce, for Boiled Beef or Bouilli.—Wash and pick a handful of parsley, and shred the leavesfinely. Put them into a basin; and mix with. them three bruised. pickled walnuts. Make half.a pint of melted but- ter, using for the purpose the liquor in which the meat was boiled. Put it into a saucepan over a gentle fire, and stir into it a tea-spoortful of mixed mustard, a table-spoonful of vinegar, a table-spoonful of mushroom. ketchup, and a table-spoonful of port. Simmer the sauce, stir- ring it. all the time, till it is thick. Add the parsley and the walnuts, simmer the sauce a minute longer, and serve. If liked, pickled cucumbers may be used instead of walnuts, and the flavour of the sauce may: be, varied by the addition of any of the piquant vinegars. Wreaths.—Take one pound of flour, five eggs, a quarter of a pound of butter, two or three spoonfuls of cream, two ounces of sugar, and a few grains of salt; make these in- gredicnts into a paste; roll out and form into rings or wreaths. Roll the wreaths in sugar, and bake on a tin ina slow oven. They may be covered with chopped almonds pressed down a little with the hand. Wreaths, Sugar (a Danish recipe).— Mash the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, and add four raw ones, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and half a pound of flour; knead to a stiff paste; pull off small pieces, dip each in flour, which roll with the hand and form into rings; WUR (1151 ) YAR xub the upper part with white of egg. Strew over with coarse-pounded sugar, and bake of a light-brown colour. Sufficient. for thirty-six rings or wreaths. Wurtemburg Sausages.—Theso sau- sages are made of a mixture of blood, liver,’ brains, milk, bread, meat, salt, and spice, which is put into skins, boiled, and smoked. ‘When they are well made, they will keep good for months; but when they are deficient in salt or spice, or when they are smoked too late, or not sufficiently, they undergo a process of putrefac- tion, which begins at the centre of the sausages, and is poisonous, Y Yachting Soup.—Put an onion -stuck with cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs,:three or four blades of mace, some pepper and salt, in a gallon of water to boil; provide two hundred crawfish, reserve about a score, pick the rest from the shells, saving the tails whole, beat the body and shells in a mortar with a pint of peas, either dry or green, but boiled tender, add them to the gallon of boiling water, and after stewing ten or fifteen minutes, or till all the goodness is extracted, strain. , Next set it over a slow fire, put in a stale French roll sliced very thin; stew till half wasted; put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, shake in two table-spoonfuls of flour, add an onion, and stir about to keep from burning; put in the tails of the crawfish and a pint of the soup; let. it simmer fer five minutes, then take out the onion, fry a French roll brown, also the score of reserved fish, and pour all the soup together, serve up in a dish, and lay the roll in the middle, with the crawfish around. Be sure to pick out the bags and the woolly part of the crawfish before you pound them. Yale Boat Pie (an American recipe).— Lay three or four pounds of steak from the under-cut of a round of beef in a middling- sized dish, having seasoned it with pepper and salt. Have a couple of chickens at hand, cut in pieces and seasoned; place them on the steak, and over them one dozen and a half of fresh fat oysters without the liquor. Add half a dozen fresh hard-boiled eggs, and after damping the bottom of the dish with half a pint of strong ale, cover the whole with fresh mushrooms, adding to these half a pound of glaze or plain neat’s-foot jelly; lay over the dish a substantial paste, and bake in a brisk oven. This pie is excellent for a picnic or water excursion. Yam.—The yam is a slender herbaceous vine, having large tuberous roots, which are much used as food in Africa and the East and West Indies. They are mealy, and thought easy of digestion, are palatable, and not inferior to any roots now in use either for delicacy of flavour or nutriment. ‘They are ewzten either roasted or boiled, and the flour is also made into bread and puddings. There are many varieties of the roots, some spreading out like the fingers, others twisted like a serpent; ; oven. others again are very small, scarcely weighing more than a pound, with a whitish ash-coloured bark, whereas the bark is usually black. The flesh of the yam is white or purplish, and viscid, but becomes farinaceous or mealy when cooked. “A species of yam (Dioscorea Batatas),” says a writer in Chambers’s Encyclopedia, ‘has recently been brought from the temperate parts of China, where it appears to have been long in cultivation, and is found to succeed well in France. It is hardy enough to endure the climate even of Scotland without injury, but the heat of the summer is not sufficiently great and long-con- tinued for its profitable growth, so. that im general the plant merely lives, without pro- ducing a large tuber. The root is of a very fine quality, and attains a very considerable size. The stem requires the support of a pole round which it twines; the leaves are more elongated and acuminated than those of the West Indian yams; the root strikes perpendicularly down into the ground, and forms its tuber .often at a very considerable depth, which is sometimey inconvenient to the cultivator, but this is pre- vented by putting a slate under it.”’ : Yams, American.—Yams, when roasted or boiled, form a nutritious and palatable article of food. They are excellent prepared as follows :—Cut them into slices half an inch thick, and form them into rounds about the size of the top of a tea-cup. Wash, drain, and dry them well, put them into a well-buttered saucepan, and season with a little salt and grated nutmeg. Moisten with water, cover closely, and let them simmer gently till done enough. Turn them over frequently, that they may be equally and lightly coloured on both sides. Pile them upon a dish. Pour white sauce, sweetened and. flavoured, round them, and serve. Time to simmer the slices, about three-quarters of an hour. Yankee Cakes.—Beat a cupful of butter to cream, stir into it an equal quantity of sugar, and adda pinch of salt, a flavouring of nutmeg or lemon grated, two well-whisked eggs, and a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda which has been dissolved in a cupful of sour milk. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, and stir into the mixture as much flour as will make a stiff batter. Butter or grease a dripping-tin thickly. Beat the cake mixture over the fire for a short time. When it is hot, pour it at once into.the tin, and bake the cake in a well-heated oven. Time to bake the cake, half an hour to three- quarters. Probable cost, 1s. Yankee Pudding Sauce, for Pan- cakes and Light Puddings.—Beat a table-spoonful of fresh butter to cream, and add a small tea-cupful of powdered white sugar, « dessert-spoonful of sherry or brandy, and a little grated nutmeg. Place the mixture on a dish, grate a little orange or lemon-rind upon it, and serve. Yarmouth Bloaters.—Cut off the head and tail, open the bloater down. the back, and lay it flat. Broil it on both sides over a clear fire, and serve with a little fresh butter and a captain’s biscuit, which has been. heated in the (See Bloaters). YEA (1152 ) YEA Yeast.—Yeast is «a substance produced during the fermentation of wine, beer, and vegetable juices: it is used to raise dough for bread and cakes, and to make it light and puffy. The best yeast is that taken from' good brewer’s ale, though it is generally too bitter to use without preparation. This yeast, however, cannot always be obtained, and German yeast’ is frequently used as a substitute. ‘his yeast is excellent when it can be procured fresh and good, and free from the bitter taste to which brewer's yeast is liable: it is fre- quently offered for sale when unfit for use, especially in hot weather. When neither good brewer's yeast nor fresh German yeast can be procured, yeast made at home may be used as a substitute ; and two or three recipes are given for its preparation. It is scarcely so strong as brewer's yeast, however, and therefore a larger quantity of it will need to be used. Half a pint of solid brewer's yeast will raise fourteen pounds of flour. If the brewer’s yeast is thin, a few spoonfuls more will be needed. Yeast (another way).—Boil a small handful of hops in a quart of water for half an hour. Pour it boiling upon a close sieve or colander upon three-quarters of a pound of white flour. Give it a stir, and let it stand till new-milk- ‘warm, then add a breakfast-cupful of yeast from the baker’s; stir again, and let it stand near the fire for twenty-four hours. A pint of this yeast makes twenty-one pounds of flour into bread. By keeping a small quantity of this yeast in a bottle, to add to the new, one may be quite independent of baker’s or brewer's yeast. This yeast will keep a fortnight if either bottled or covered in a jar. Yeast, Baker’s.—Put two ounces of hops into a saucepan, and pour over them one gallon of cold water. Bring the liquor to the boil, and keep it boiling, stirring well for one hour. Strain it, and mix with it two pounds of malt. Cover, and leave it till it is the heat of new milk. Stir into it briskly half a pint of solid brewer’s yeast, let it work for ten hours, strain through a sieve, and it will be ready for use. Yeast, Bread without.— Some years since,” says Miss Acton, in her Bread-book, “when unfermented bread was first becoming known, I had it tried very successfully in the following manner, and I have since been told that an almost similar method of preparing it is common in many parts both of England and Ireland, where it is almost impossible to pro- cure a constant supply of yeast. Blend well together a tea-spoonful of pounded sugar and fifty grains of the purest carbonate of soda; mix a salt-spoonful of salt with a pound of flour, and rub the soda and sugar through a hair sieve into it. Stir and mingle them well, and make them quickly into a firm but not hard dough with some buttermilk. Bake the loaf well in a thoroughly-heated but not fierce oven. Ina brick or in a good iron oven a few minutes less than an hour would be sufficient to bake a loaf of similar weight. The butter- milk should be kept till it is quite acid, but it must never be in the slightest degree rancid or otherwise bad. All unfermented bread should be placed in the oven directly it is made, or it will be heavy. For a large baking allow rather less than an ounce of soda to the gallon (7 Ibs.) of flour.” Yeast, Brewer’s, To prepare for use.—tTaste the yeast, and if it is very bitter, pour over it a considerable quantity of cold water. Let it stand for twenty-four hours, then pour off the water, when the yeast will be found at the bottom of the vessel quite thick. Taste it again. If it still continues bitter, pour more water over it, and let :t stand an hour or twolonger. Yeast may be kept covered with cold water for several days. When brewer's yeast does not appear sufficiently strong, honey or brown sugar may be mixed with it, in the proportion of a tea-spoonful to half a pint. Sufficient, half a pint of solid brewer's yeast will raise fourteen: pounds of flour. If it is thin, a few spoonfuls more will be required. Yeast Cake.— Put three-quarters of a pound of flour into a bowl, and mix with it a pinch of salt. Dissolve quarter of a pound of butter in quarter of a pint of hot milk. Let the mixture cool a little, and when it is new- milk-warm, stir it into the flour. Add a small table-spoonful of fresh yeast and two well- beaten eggs, and knead the preparation till it forms a smooth dough. Make two or threc gashes across the surface with a knife, cover the bowl with u cloth, and set the dough ina warm place to rise. When sufficiently light, knead it again with six ounces of currants picked and dried, four ounces of powdered white sugar, one ounce of candied peel cut into thin strips, and a little grated nutmeg. Line a good-sized cake-tin with buttered paper, and let the paper riso four or six inches above the tin. Pour the mixture into it, let the cake rise half an hour longer, and bake in a well- heated oven. Protect the surface of the cake with a sheet of paper whilst it is being baked. Timc to bake the cake, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. Sufficient to make a moderate-sized cake. Yeast Cake (another way). — Mix thoroughly in a bowl two pounds and a half of flour, a pinch of salt, and half « pound of Demerara sugar. Make a hollow in the centre of the flour, but do not touch the bottom of the bowl. Pour into this haf a pint of lukewarm milk which has been mixed with a table-spoon- ful of fresh yeast. Stir as much flour into the milk as will make it of the consistency of batter, sprinkle a little flour on the surface, throw a cloth over the bowl, and leave it ina warm place for an hour. Melt three-quarters of a pound of fresh butter to oil, and add this to the other ingredients, together with a pound and a quarter of currants picked and dried, halt a pound of candied peel (lemon, orange, and citron together)’ finely shred, a quarter of an ounce of grated nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of powdered cinnamon, and a quarter of an ounce of ground allspice. Knead the mix- ture thoroughly, and add as much milk as will make a smooth, light dough. Line thres moderate-sized cake-tins with buttered paper. YEA (1158 ) YEA three-parts fill them with the mixture, let them rise before the fire for half an hour, and bake in a well-heated oven. If liked, this cake may be iced after it has been baked. For in- structions in icing see the reniarks on icing a cake towards the close of the article on Wed- ding Cake, Excellent. Time to bake the cakes, about an hour and a half. Probable cost, 1s. each. Yeast Cake, Excellent.—Rub one pound of butter into six pounds of flour, and add a tea-spoonful of salt. Make a hole in the centre of the flour, without touching the bottom of the bowl, and pour into this a little more than half a pint of good, fresh, sweet yeast, mixed with half a pint of lukewarm water. Stir into the yeast as much flour from the sides as will make a batter, sprinkle flour over the surface, and leave the mixture for an hour, or till the yeast has risen in bubbles through the covering of flour. Stir into the yeast four well- beaten eggs, add one pound of fine raw sugar, and knead the whole thoroughly with about half a pint of hot milk. Let this dough stand to rise till it is very light and the surface has cracked. Knead it again with three pounds of currants picked and dried, and half a pound of candied lemon and orange mixed; add also a little grated nutmeg. Put the cake-mixture into two large tins, well buttered, let it rise be- fore the fire for quarter of an hour, and bake the cakes in a moderately-heated oven. Time to bake the cakes, three hours. Sufficient for two large cakes. Probable cost, 28. 10d. each cake. Yeast Cakes (William Cobbett’s recipe). —To make yeast cakes—Provide seven pounds of Indian corn meal, three and a half pounds of rye flour, three ounces of hops, and one gallon of boiling water. Separate the hops by the hand, strew and boil them in the water for half an hour, then strain the liquor into an earthen vessel, put in the rye flour while hot, stirring quickly as the fermentation commences. Next day, when it is working, put in the Indian meal, stirring it well. Before all the meal is added, it will become a stiff dough. Knead it well, and roll it out as you would a pie-crust, to the thickness of half an inch. Cut it into cakes with a tumbler-glass, or anything else that will serve the purpose; place these cakes on a board, and set them in the sun to dry. Turn them every day, sheltering from wet, until they become quite hard. Keep them ina bag or box perfectly free from damp. When you bake, take a couple of these yeast cakes, break them, and put them in hot water over night. Let the vessel containing them stand near the fire ; they will dissolve; use the liquid ’ for setting your sponge (as it is called), just as you would the yeast of beer. White pea meal, or barley flour, will do as well as Indian meal. Mr. Cobbett adds, that the very best bread he ever ate was lightened with these cakes. Yeast, Camp (see Camp Yeast). Yeast, Connecticut (an American recipe). —Put a handful of hops in a bag, boil in two quarts of water with five pared potatoes; when done, sift the potatoes, put with them ina pan one table-spoonful of flour, half a cup- 73--N.E. ful of sugar, half a cupful of salt, and pour on this the boiling hop-water. When sufficiently cool, add yeast enough to ferment it well, then mt it in a jug, cork tight, and keep in a cool place. Yeast Dumpling (a German recipe).— Beat a quarter of a pound of butter to cream, add four or five eggs to it; when well-miwed, . pour in a cupful of milk and the same quantity of yeast, sugar, grated lemon-peel, and pounded: cinnamon, ‘with as much flour as will make it of a proper consistency. Make the dough into dumplings, and let them remain an hour in a warm place to rise, then boil them in boiling water. Serve with melted butter and sugar or a wine sauce. Yeast, Economical Preparation of. —Thicken two quarts of water with four ounces of fine flour, boil it for half an hour,. then sweeten it with three ounces of brown sugar; when almost cold, pour it, with four spoonfuls of baker’s yeast, into an earthen jug deep enough for the fermentation to go on without running over. Place it for a day near the fire, then pour off the thin liquor from the top, shake the remainder, and close it up for. use, first straining it through a sieve to pre- serve it sweet. Set it in a cool cellar, or hang it some depth ina well. Keep always some of this to make the next quantity of yeast that is’ wanted. x Yeast, German.—This yeast in many distilleries forms an important by-product of the manufactory, and is collected and sold under the name of dry yeast for the use of the private brewer and baker. When this is done, the process adopted is nearly as follows :—Crushed rye is mashed with the proper quantity of barley malt, and the wort, when made, cooled tothe proper temperature. For every hundred pounds of the crushed grain there are now added half a pound of carbonate of soda and’ six ounces of oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) diluted with much water, and the wort is then brought into fermentation by the addition of yeast. From the strongly fermenting liquid the yeast is skimmed off and strained through a hair sieve into cold water, through which it is allowed to settle. It is afterwards washed with one or two waters, and finally pressed in cloth bags till it has the consistency of dough. It has a pleasant fruity smell, and in a cool place may be kept for two or three weeks. It then passes into a putrefying decomposition, acquires the odour of decaying cheese, and has now the property of changing sugar into lactic acid instead of into alcohol, as before. A hun- dred pounds of crushed grain will yield six to eight pounds of the pressed yeast. It is made largely at Rotterdam, and is imported thence to this country through Hull. German yeast is ex- cellent when it can be procured fresh, but this is rather a difficulty. After being purchased it should be taken out of the paper as soon as pos- sible, and laid in a cool place till wanted. An ounce of German yeast will raise a quartern or half a gallon, or three pounds and a half of flour. Yeast, German (sce also German Yeast). YEA ( 1154) YHA ‘Yeast, Home-made.—No. 1. Boil two ounces of best hops in two quarts of water for half an hour. Strain the liquor, and let it cool down. to the heat of new milk. Put into it a small handful of salt and half a pound of moist sugar. Beat up a pound of fine flour with some of the liquor, and mix all well together. Two days afterwards, add three pounds of potatoes which have been boiled and mashed. Let the preparation stand for twenty-four hours, then strain it, and bottle for use, but do not cork it till it has ceased working. Whilst making it, ‘stir frequently and keep it near the fire. Before using shake the bottle well. It will keep in a cool placé for two months. Yeast made from this recipe is excellent, but it must be prepared with great care. Bread made from it: needs to rise longer, both in the sponge and ‘in the dough, than when fresh brewer’s yeast is used. No. 2. Put two gallons of cold water into a stewpan, with quarter of a pound of moist sugar and one ounce of salt. Put it on the fire, and as ‘it heats stir in with it one pound of flour. Let it boil for an hour. Pour it out, and when milk-warm bottle it closely. It will be fit for use in twenty-four hours. Half a pint of;this yeast will make nine pounds of bread. No. 3. Puta handful of hops into a quart of water, either hot or cold; let them boil for twenty minutes. Mix in a bowl two table-spoonfuls of flour with one table-spoonful of salt and one of moist sugar. Pour the boil- ing liquor through a sieve upon the mixture, and stir briskly. When it is almost cold, stir into it a tea-cupful of good brewer's yeast. Let it stand in a cool place for twenty-four hours or more,and bottle for use. In winter- time this yeast should be kept in a warm place. It should be stirred: before being used. It should stand to sponge all night, and will then require to-rise about two hours after being kneaded. When fresh yeast is to be made,a pint of this preparation may ‘be used instead of a tea-cupful of fresh'yeast. A large tea-cupful of this yeast will raise fourteen pounds of flour. Yeast, Kirkleatham.—Boil an ounce of hops in two quarts of water for twenty minutes. Strain the liquor, and’ mix with it quarter of a pound of flour and a little less than quarter of a pint of fresh yeast. Bottle the pre- paration, and tie the cork down. When the bread _is to be made, add mashed potatoes, according to the quantity of yeast required. For a peck of flour, boil and mash three pounds of potatoes, and mix with them half a pound of flour and half a pint of the yeast. Let the mixture stand all day. Mix it with the flour, and let.it stand to sponge all night; knead and bake next day. Time, twenty minutes to boil the hops in the water. Sufficient, half a pint for about,a peck of flour. ; , Yoast, Oateakes made with (sce Oat- cakes made with Yeast). Yeast, Patent.—“ To make a yeast gallon of this composition—such yeast gallon containing eight beer quarts—boil in common water eight pounds of potatoes as for eating. Bruise them perfectly smooth, and mix with them, while warm, two ounces of fine honey and one beer quart of common yeast. For making bread, mix three beer pints of. the.above composition with a bushel of flour, using warm. water in making the bread. The water should be warmer in winter than in summer, and the composition should be used a few hours after it is made, As soon as the sponge, or the mixture of the composition with the flour, begins to fall the first time, the bread should, be made and put into the oven.” ' This recipe is copied from the original specification in the patent office. Yeast, Potato.—Boil any quantity of good potatoes in their jackets. When done enough, peel, weigh, and mash them quickly, and with each pound mix a quart of boiling water. Rub the mixture through a hair sieve, and add an ounce of honey or brown sugar to each pound of potatoes. Boil the mixture till it is as thick as batter; pour it out, and, when lukewarm, stir into it a large table-spoonful of solid yeast to each quart of water. Cover the mixture with a cloth; it will be ready for use in twenty- four hours. Double the quantity of this yeast as of beer yeast will be needed. Thenext time yeast has to be made, use a bottle of this pre- paration (first pouring off the thin liquid from the top) instead of fresh yeast. Fresh yeast will, however, be required every two months, Yeast, Potato (another way).—Boil pota- toes of the mealy sort till they are thoroughly soft. Skin and mash them very smooth, and put as much hot water on them as will make a mash of the consistency of common beer yeast, but not thicker. Add to every pound of pota-. toes two ounces of treacle, and when just warm, stir in for every pound of potatoes two large spoonfuls of yeast. Keep it warm till it has done fermenting, and in twenty-four hours it will be fit for use. A pound of potatoes will make nearly a quart of. yeast, which has been found to answer the purpose so well, as not to distinguish the bread made with it from bread made with brewer’s yeast. _ : Yeast, Potato (another way).—See also Potato Yeast. Yeast, Preserved.— When yeast is plenti- ful, take a quantity and work it well with a whisk until it becomes thin; thert procure a large wooden dish or platter, clean and dry, and with a soft brush lay a thin layer of yeast on the dish, and. turn the top downwards to keep out the dust, but not the air, which is to dry it. When the first coat is dry, lay on another, and let that dry, and so continue till the quantity is sufficient ; by this means it may. soon be made two or three inches, thick, when it may be preserved in dry tin canisters or stopped bottles for a long time good. When used for baking, cut a piece off, and dissolve it in warm water, when it will be fit for use. Yeast, Preserved (another way).—To preserve yeast, take a close canvas bag, fill it with yeast, then press out the water.and make it into cakes. ‘I have tasted bread,” says one writer, ‘‘made with yeast preserved in this manner, and it has been excellent. The mode of using it is to dilute it with warm water, to which a little sugar and flour are added.” Yeast, Preserved (another way).— Whisk the yeast to a froth, and then with a paint-brush lay it on writing paper; continue coating the “ ¥ YEA (1155 ) YOR paper every time it dries, until a cake i formed, then divide it into squares with a knife; (© ‘Yeast Wreaths.—Set's pound and a half of fine flour to warm in a pan. Mix an ounce and a half of fresh dried yeast, or two large table-spoonfuls of. brewer's yeast, with a cupful of lukewarm milk; stir this in the centre of the dough to a batter; cover, and leave it to rise. When it is light, add half a pound of butter beaten to a cream, three eggs, three ounces of sifted sugar, and a little salt. Work all to a smooth.light dough. Divide it into six parts. Rolk them on the :paste-board into long ‘bars: plait. two twists of these, lay them in rings on a buttered tin, making the ends ofeach ring join. Set them in a warm place to rise, and, when light, brush them over with egg. ' Sprinkle chopped almonds and coarsely-powdered sugar over, and bake them to a nice yellow colour in a moderate oven. ’ : Yellow Colour.—yYellow colour for the ornamentation of pastry may be prepared by placing an ounce of hay-saffron in a sugar-pan with a gill and a half of water, a small quantity of alum, and half an ounce of sugar. Set the pan on the fire, let the liquid boil for ten minutes, then pass it through a napkin. Yellow Pickle.— Take quarter of a pound. of brown mustard seed, two ounces of long pepper, two ounces of black ‘pepper, two ounces of garlic, one ounce of turmeric, quar- ter of an ounce of mace, three roots of “horse- radish, and half a pound of salt.’ Dry these ingredients thoroughly, and pour over them a gallon of cold vinegar. Procure a large head of cauliflower, two cabbages, six large carrots, and a quart of French beans. Cut the vegetables into small pieces, strew-salt over them, and let them stand for twenty-four hours. Drain them on cloths, and dry them.on hair sieves in the sun, or near the fire, for, twelve days. Put with them a quart of small onions, and let them dry two days longer. Put them into a large jar, with the vinegar, and let the pickle stand near the fire or in a warm place.. It must not, however, be made hotter. than new milk. At the end of ten days it will be ready for use. If it is too thick, a little boiling vinegar may be added. Time, three to four weeks. oo oe York Hams.--Of English. hams, . York hams and Westmoreland hams are perhaps the best. If they are only three or four months old, they do not need to soak very long, but if ayear old or more, they should be soaked for twenty-four hours befére being dressed. A ham is excellent when nicely boiled, but bettef when baked. 3 ieee Backstone Cake (see Oat- cake). Ws é oS Yorkshire Black Puddings.—Crumble @ quarter of a pound of stale bread, pour boiling milk over it to cover it, and let it remain until it has absorbed the milk. Soak a pint of half grits, and boil them for half | an hour in as much milk as will entirely.cover them. Drain the milk, mix it with the boiled grits, and add a pint of blood and half a pint of good cream, together with half a pound | of finely-shred suet, ‘two table-spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a dessert-spoonful of chopped thyme,- and the same: quantity of' marjoram, sage, and penny-royal, ‘a leck, a small: onion, a dessert-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of black pepper, six powdered cluves, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, ground ginger, and powdered allspice. Mix the ingredients: thoroughly, and add four well-beaten eggs. Have ready one pound of the inner fat of the ‘pig cut into-dice. Cleanse the skins thoroughly: Half fill them, and put in the fatamongst'the mince. Tie the skins in links, prick them with a fork, and boil till. done enough. Let them: cool, and hang | them in a cool situation till wanted. . Broil them lightly over a clear fire, and serve ona napkin. Time to-boil the puddings, about an hour. : Yorkshire Brown Bread.—Mix three pounds of best flour with one pound of coarse broad bran. A pound of rye flour may also be added, if approved. Make a hollow. in the centre of the flour, but-do not quite touch the bottom of the bowl, and sprinkle a little salt round the edge of the flour. Mix an ounce of fresh German yeast smoothly:with a little more than half a pint of tepid water. Pour a cupful of tepid water into the hole in the flour, mix with it as much flour from. the. sides as will make a thin batter, and add the yeast.. Sprinkle | flour over the top, throw a cloth over the bowl, and let it stand near the ie till the yeast rises in bubbles through the tour on the surface. Knead the bread thoroughly, adding lukewarm water as required, and continue to knead without ceasing till it does not stick to the | fingers and the sides of the bowl... Cut it across with a knife, throw a cloth over it, and let it stand near the fire or in a warm place until itis | well risen and the surface is slightly cracked: Grease some tins, three-parts fill them with the dough, let.the loaves rise in the tins for a few; minutes, prick them with a fork, and bake in a moderate oven. If they are put into a brisk oven, the bread will not be baked through. Brown loaves require more water and longer baking than white bread. If liked, a smaller. proportion of bran may be: used with the flour; or rye flour only may be used. A Yorkshire Flat Cake (sometimes called Oven Cake).—When bread is made at home, and the dough is being formed into loaves, take a piece the size of half a loaf. Form it into a ball, and with the rolling-pin roll it into a large round cake. from eight to twelve inches in diameter and three-quarters of an inch thick. Put it on a buttered baking-tin, prick it with a fork, let it rise before the fire for about ten minutes, and bake in a brisk oven. When firm, it is done enough. Split it in halves the broad way, butter it: well; and serve hot or cold. ‘Time to bake the cake, about three- quarters of an hour.. -Probable: cost, 2d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Yorkshire Fritters.—Mix two ounces of powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, and a quarter ' of a nutmeg grated, with half a pound of flour. Add a table-spoonful of fresh yeast, or half an’ ounce of German yeast, and half a pint of fresh milk, and beat the whole to a thick batter. YOR ( 1156 ) YOR Stir into it two ounces of currants picked and dried, throw a cloth over the bowl, and put it before the fire or in a warm place to rise. At the end of half an hour, or when well risen, stir in three well-beaten eggs. Make a little butter or dripping hot in a frying-pan, drop the batter into it a spoonful at a time, and keep the fritters apart. When they are brown upon one side, turn them upon the other; drain them, serve on a napkin, and sift powdered white sugar thickly over them. Time to fry the fritters, three or four minutes. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient for three or four persons. Yorkshire Frumenty (a Christmas Sup- per Dish).—Put a pint of good wheat into a bowl, pour cold water over it, and let it soak for twelve hours or more. Cover with a plate, put it 1n the oven, and let it simmer gently till tender. - Stir occasionally to keep it from sticking to the bot- tom of the dish. Take it out and let it get cold; it ought to be quite stiff. When wanted, stir about a pint of the boiled wheat into a quart of boiling milk, sweeten the mixture, and flavour with grated nutmeg or powdered cinnamon. Let it boil, serve in a soup tureen, and hand it round in soup plates. Time to simmer the wheat, about three hours. Probable cost, 8d. Sufficient for four or five persons. Yorkshire Hare Cake.—Procure a hare, three-quarters of a pound of lean ham, four hard-boiled eggs, and a little gravy jelly. Pick the flesh from the bones in pieces as large as possible, divide it into neat collops, about a quarter of an inch thick, and put these aside in a covered dish till wanted. Put the bones and trimmings of the hare into a saucepan, with a calf’s foot, a carrot, an onion stuck with two cloves, a bay-leaf, a few sticks of celery, a bunch of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and half a dozen peppercorns. Pour upon the ingredients as much stock or water as will cover them, and let them simmer gently till the gravy is strong and pleasantly flavoured. If the liquor is not so strong that it will jelly when cold, two ounces or more of gelatine may be dissolved in it. Free the jelly entirely from fat; spread a thin layer of it at the bottom of an earthen potting-pan, and fill the pan with alternate layers of the collops of hare, thin slices of ham, the hard-boiled eggs cut into slices, and the gravy jelly. Season each layer with a slight sprinkling of herbs and spices (see Aromatic Seasoning of Herbs and Spices). When the whole of the ingredients are used, cover the pan with a coarse paste of flour and water, put it in the oven in a dripping-tin, three-parts filled with boiling water, and keep the water boiling round it till it is done enough. Take the pan out of the oven and leave it in a cold place till the next day. Turn it out upon a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve as a luncheon, breakfast, or supper dish. Time to bake the cake, one hour and a quarter to one hour and three-quarters, according to the size of the hare. Probable cost of hare, 3s. 6d. to 6s. 6d. each. Sufficient for ten or twelve persons. Yorkshire Pie.—A true Yorkshire pie, such as constitutes a standing dish during the Christmas festivities at the hospitable board of a Yorkshire squire, is simply a raised pie filled with poultry and game of different kinds, put one inside the other and side by side. These pies are sometimes made of a large size; and it is recorded that one of them, which was sent from Sheffield in 1832 as a present to the then Lord Chancellor Brougham, broke down on account of its weight. Yorkshire pies require both skill and patience for their manufacture. They are not common, and are becoming less and less so; nevertheless, when successfully made they form a, most excellent dish, and one sure to be highly appreciated. Turkey, phea- sants, ducks, fowls, grouse, snipes, and tongue; any or all of these may enter into their com- position. Whatever birds are used should be boned and partially stewed before being put into the pie: the smallest of them should be filled with good, highly-seasoned veal forcemeat ; a layer of forcemeat should be placed at the bottom of the pie, and all the vacant places filled with the same. A recipe ‘is here given for making a moderate-sized pie. Bone a fowl and @ goose; fill tne fowl with good veal forcemeat, truss it, and sew it up. Truss the goose, and put the two side by side in a stewpan which will just hold them. Pour over them as much ’ stock as will cover them, and let them simmer gently for half an hour. Take them up, put the fowl inside the goose, truss the latter, and sew it up. Line a pie-mould with some pastry, such as is used for making raised pies, rolled out to a good thickness. Cover the bottom with a layer of forcemeat, lay the goose upon it, pour a little of the liquor in which it was stewed over it, and place round it slices of pigeons, boned hare, tongue, &c. Fill the vacant places with forcemeat, and when the meat is closely packed in the crust put over it a layer of clari- fied butter. Place the pastry-cover on the top, brush over with egg, ornament it, bind several folds of buttered paper round it, and bake in a well-heated oven. Make a little strong jelly by boiling the bones and trimmings with seasoning and spices, and pour this into the pie after it is baked. When the pie is to be served, place it on a dish covered with a napkin, remove the cover whole,,and cut the meat in thin slices. The pastry of a pie like this is not made to be eaten but is simply in- tended as a case in which to preserve and serve the meat. When a skewer will pierce easily to the bottom of the pie in the centre it is done enough. Time to bake the pie, four hours or more. Yorkshire Ploughman’s Salad.— Wash some lettuces, and dry them perfectly. Shred them finely, and toss them lightly in a sauce made as follows :—Mix thoroughly a salt- Spoonful of salt with an equal quantity of pepper, twotable-spoonfuls of vinegar,and one of treacle. Add the sauce to the salad at the moment of serving. A bunch of chives or a handful of young onions may be introduced or not. Yorkshire Pudding.—Allow one egg, and milk to make a tolerably stiff batter, to two table-spoonfuls of flour. This will make a very good pudding, though a better and lighter one may be made by using two eggs to three table- spoonfuls of flour, or even one. egg to each table-spoonful of flour. Put as much flour as YOR will be required into a bowl, and add a pinch of salt. Stir in gradually as much milk as will mako a stiff batter, and beat. the mixture vigorously till it is perfectly smooth and light. Whisk the eggs separately, and add them to the patter. Place the pudding-tin under the roasting joint, and leave it till it is thoroughly hot and well greased with the drippings from the joint. Pour the batter into it to the thick- ness of the third of an inch, and bake the pudding before the fire under the joint. Turn the pan round and round, that the pudding may be equally and lightly browned on every side. Cut it in three-inch squares; take these up carefully with a slice, place them on a separate dish which has been made very hot, and send them immediately to table, to be eaten with the meat and the gravy. If the joint is to ve baked under the roast, the latter may be placed on a stand in the dripping-tin, the pud- ding, however, will not be so light as if baked before the fire. Out of Yorkshire, what is called Yorkshire pudding is made an inch thick or more, and after it is browned upon one side, it is cut into squares and turned over, that it may be browned upon the other. This is quite a different thing from the true Yorkshire pudding, which is made very thin, and browned on the uppermost side only. The batter for this pudding will be much better if made two, three, or even four hours before it is wanted. Cold Yorkshire pudding may be heated in a Dutch oven before the fire. Time to bake the pudding, varying with the kind of range used: with an old-fashioned range, which throws out a good deal of heat in front, the pudding will be baked in from threc- quarters to one, hour; when a kitchener is used, the pudding will need to be finished off in the oven. It must not, however, be allowed to get dry. If made thick, and browned on both sides, the pudding will need at least an hour and a half. Probable cost, 7d. Sufficient, a pudding made with four table-spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a pinch of salt, and a pint of milk, for five or six persons. .. Yorkshire Pudding, Beef with (sce Beef with Yorkshire Pudding). Yorkshire Punch.—Rub some large lumps of sugar upon four lemons and one Seville orange until all the yellow part is taken off. Weigh the sugar, and add as much more as will make up its weight to a pound and a quarter. Put the sugar into a bowl, and strain over it the juice of six lemons and three Seville oranges. Add a pint of liquid calf’s-foot jelly, and stir in gradually two quarts of boiling water. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and put the bowl containing them by the side of the fire for twenty minutes. Strain the mix- ture, put with it a bottle of orange or lemon shrub, and add half a pint of rum, and halfa pint of brandy. If the trouble of rubbing the sugar upon the lemons and orange is objected to, the sugar may be rubbed upon a portion of the lemon, and the thin rind of the rest soaked in the jelly and the strained juice until the flavour is extracted. The flavour of the punch thus made will not quite equal that made by rubbing the sugar with lemon. ( 1157 ) YOR Yorkshire Spice Cake (sometimes called Yule Cake).—These ae are made in large quantities in Yorkshire families at Christmas time. They are freely offered to strangers and presented to friends, and’ are frequently eaten with cheese instead of: bread. Recipes for them will be found under the headings: Yeast Cake, Excellent; Annie’s Rich Cake; Aunt Edward’s Christmas Cake. Another is given below. Put eight pounds of flour into a bowl, and mix a table-spoonful of salt with it; then rub into ita pound and a half of butter, and two pounds of lard. Scoop a hole in the centre of the bread without touching the bottom, and pour in half a pint of fresh sweet brewer’s yeast mixed with water. Stir flour into the yeast till it is like batter, sprinkle flour over the top, and set the bowl in a warm place. When the yeast rises in bubbles through the flour, knead the dough thoroughly. as for com- mon bread, and let it rise till it islight. When risen, work in with it six pounds of currants, picked and dried thoroughly, three pounds of raw sugar, some grated nutmeg, and eight well- beaten eggs. Divide it into loaves of various sizes, put these into tins which they will half fill, lined with buttered paper, and bake the cakes in a well-heated oven. The yeast must on no account be bitter. Time to bake the cakes, according to size. Probable cost, 10d. per pound. Yorkshire Tea-cakes.—A hospitable Yorkshire housewife would consider her tea- table was barely spread if it were not liberally supplied with these delicious cakes, constant relays of which should be served steaming hot. Put two pounds of good flour into.a bowl; scoop a hole in the centre, but do not touch the bottom of the bowl, and pour into the hollow thus made a little less than an ounce of German yeast which has been dissolved in a tea-cupful of lukewarm milk. Add to this yeast two well- beaten eggs and six ounces of butter which has been dissolved in half a tea-cupful of hot water. The water, when added to the batter, ought to be a little more than new-milk-warm. Draw a little of the flourfrom the side of the bowl into the liquor till it is of the consistency of very thick cream, sprinkle a little flour upon it tocover the surface, and leave it ina warm place to rise. In about an hour, when the bubbles of yeast show themselves through the flour, knead the dough thoroughly, adding as much more lukewarm milk as is necessary for the purpose. The tea-cakes will require about a pint of milk altogether. Gash the sur- face of the dough two or three times across with a knife, throw a warm towel over it, and leave it to rise. When it is-very light (that is ' when the surface cracks, which it will do in an hour or more), divide it into ten portions of equal size. Roll these lightly into cakes four inches in diameter, and put them on a baking- tin. Prick them with a fork and let them riso before the fire for ten minutes. Put them into a mederately-heated oven; they must not be baked. hard. When they are to be served, either cut them into halves, toast them, and butter liberally, or make them hot in the oven, divide them, and butter them. Serve very hot. These tea-cakes will be very good YOR ( 1158 ) ZAN if made with four ounces of butter instead of six, and if one egg only is used. They; may be buttered and served cold, but are best hot. Time to bake the tea-cakes, a quarter to half an hour. Probable cost, 1d. each. Sufficient for ten cakes, A few currants may be added if liked. Yorkshire Veal Cake.—Take one pound and a halt of lean veal from the fillet, three- quarters of a pound of thinly-cut ham, and four eggs. Boil the eggs till they are hard and let them get cold, then cut the veal into neat pieces. Take about half a pint of clear highly-seasoned veal gravy, made so strong that it will jelly firmly when cold. Put a layer'of this at the bottom of an earthen potting-pan, and fill the dish with successive layers of the veal, the ham, the hard-boiled eggs cut into slices, and the jellied gravy. Season each layer lightly with a little pepper, minced parsley, and shallot, and salt, if required; this will depend upon the saltness of the bacon. Cover the potting- pan with a coarse stiff paste of flour and water, put it in the oven ina dripping-tin, three-parts filled with boiling water, and add more water in place of that which boils away till the veal cake is done enough. Let the cake -get cold, turn it whole upon a dish, and garnish with parsley. The jellied gravy'may be made by boiling the bones and trimmings of the veal in water, with a cow-heel and suitable seasonings, and clarifying the liquor with white of egg. It should form a stiff jelly when cold. Time to bake the cake, one hour and a quarter. Pro- bable cost, 3s. 6d.. Sufficient for a breakfast or luncheon dish. Young Oxford Sausages.—Take one pound of young pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle; one pound of beef suet, chopped fine together; put in half «4 pound of grated bread, half the peel of a lemon shred, a nutmeg grated, six sage-leaves chopped fine, a tea- spoonful of pepper, and two of salt,. some thyme, savoury, and: marjoram, shred fine. Mix well together, and put the preparation close down in a fiin till used. Roll the sau- sages out the size of common sausages, and fry them in fresh butter of a fine brown, or broil ae over a clear fire, and send them to table ot. Yule Cake (sce Yorkshire Spice Cake). Yule Dumplings.—Cut two small loaves of bread made of milk into slices, and pour over them a sufficient quantity of cold milk to render them soft; having gently pressed the bread, then add to it the. following :—Two ounces of the small and one ounce of the large raisins, picked and washed, some blanched and finely- bruised or grated bitter almonds, grated lemon- peel, mace, and sugar, a piece of rubbed butter, and two or three eggs. All these ingredients to be well mixed together with two or three spoonfuls of flour, and formed into a consistent mass of dough, which is to be divided by a spoon into dumplings of the proper size; these are to be put overhead into boiling water, and when thoroughly done taken out with a skim- ming-spoon, and served up with cream sauce poured over them, These dumplings furnish a beautiful supper-dish. Yule Pudding.—A quarter of a pound of butter; ten ounces of loaf sugar; the juice of two large lemons, with the rinds grated; one ounce of isinglass—the quantity after dissolved should be a large tea-cupful; and two spoonfuls of fine flour. Put these ingredients into a stewpan, stir over a slow fire, till the preparation nearly. boils, then throw it into a basin and stir till almost cold; then add eight eggs, four whites, and half a wine-glass of brandy. A puff paste is to be put entirely over a dish, and the pud- ding is to be baked half an hour. Z Zampino, with French Beans.—‘* In Italy and Vienna,” says M. Dubois, “they think a great deal of ‘zampino’ (‘ hand,’ i.e, foot and leg, of young pork) from Modena, and they are quite right. For my own part, Ido not know any product of this nature more cleverly contrived or more successfully achieved. than this ‘zampino.’ The only thing to regret is that the ‘zampino’ is not sufficiently and better known to epicures. Choose a ‘zampino’ freshly salted, having soaked it for two hours, drain, and wrap it up in a fine cloth; tie, and place it in an oval stewpan, moistening plenti- fully with cold water; make the liquid boil, draw the pan on the side of the fire, keeping the stock simmering for two hours, after which take the pan quite off the fire, leaving the ‘zampino’ in, and twenty minutes after un- pack, and dish it on a garnish of French beans or sour-crout.”” : Zandrina Pudding.—Pick some fresh ripe raspberries. Put them into a jar and cover closely; set the fruit in the oven in a tin of boiling water, and keep the water boiling round it till the juice flows freely. Boil it with half its weight of gugar to a syrup, and let it get cold. If fresh fruit can- not be ‘procured, a jar of raspberry jam may be dissolved, mixed with u little thin syrup, and rubbed through a sieve. Beat six ounces of fresh butter to cream; work in six ounces of powdered white sugar, six ounces of dried flour, and the well-beaten yolks of six eggs. Whisk the whites of the eggs to snow, and add them to the mixture, together with a wine- glassful of the raspberry syrup. Pour the mixture into a buttered mould which it will quite fill, put the cover on it, and put it ina saucepan, containing boiling water to the depth of three inches or thereabouts, according to the depth of the mould. Keep the water boiling round the pudding until it is done enough. . Take it up, let it stand a minute or two, and turn it out carefully upon a hot dish. Serve, with a little of the syrup whisked with an equal quantity of thick cream, poured round it. If liked, the pudding may be baked instead of being steamed. Time to stcam the pudding, an hour and a half, Probable cost, exclusive of the sauce, two shillings. Sufficient for six or sevén persons. . APPENDIX. A—KITCHEN UTENSILS. On the subject of culinary utensils we may reproduce the following remarks of Mrs. Ellet :—“ The various utensils uged for'the preparation and keeping of food are made either of metal, glass, pottery-ware, or wood, each’ of which is better suited for some particular purpose than the others. Metallic utensils are quite unfit for many uses, and the knowledge of this is necessary to the preservation of health in general, and sometimes to the prevention of immediate dangerous conséquences, “The metals commonly used in the construction of these vessels are silver, copper, brass, tin, iron, and lead. Silver is preferable to all others because it cannot be dissolved by any of the substances used as food. Brimstone unites with silver, and forms a brittle crust over it, that gives it the appearance of being tarnished. The discolouring of silver spoons used with eggs arises from the brimstone contained in eggs. Nitre or saltpetre has also a slight effect upon silver, but nitre and silver seldom remain long enough together in domestic uses to require any particular caution. “Copper and brass are both liable to be dissolved by vinegar, acid fruits, and pearlash. Such solutions are highly poisonous, and great precautions should be used to prevent accidents. Vessels made of these metals are generally tinned, that is, lined with a thin coating of a mixed metal containing both tin and lead. Neither acids nor anything containing pearlash should ever remain above an hour in vessels of this kind, as the tin is dissolvable by acids, and the coating is seldom perfect over the surface of copper or brass. : “The utensils made of what is called block-tin are constructed of iron plates coated with tin. This is as liable to be dissolved as the tinning of copper or brass vessels, but iron is not an unwholesome substance if even a portion of it should be dissolved and mixed in the food. Iron is therefore one of the safest metals for. the construction of culinary utensils, and the objection to its more extensive use only rests upon its liability to rust, so that it requires more cleaning, and soon decays. Some articles of food, such as quinces, orange-peel, artichokes, dsc; are blackened by remaining in iron vessels, which must not therefore be used for them. , “‘Leaden vessels are very unwholesome, and should never be used for milk and cream if it be ever likely to stand till it becomes sour. They are unsafe also for the purpose of keeping salted meats. a “The best kind of pottery-ware is oriental china, because the glazing is a perfect glass which cannot be dissolved, and the whole substance is so compact that liquid cannot penetrate it. Many of our own pottery-wares are badly glazed, and as the glazing is made principally of lead, it is necessary to avoid putting vinegar and other acids.into them. Acids and greasy substances penetrate into unglazed wares— excepting the strong stoneware—or into those of which the glazing is cracked, and hence give a bad flavour to anything they are used for afterwards. They are quite unfit, therefore, for keeping pickles or salted meats. Glass vessels are infinitely _ preferable to any pottery-ware but oriental china, and should be used whenever the ‘occasion. admits of it. aes “ Wooden vessels are very proper for keeping many articles of food, and should always be preferred to those lined with lead. If any substance has fermented’ or become putrid in a wooden cask or tub, it is sure to taint the vessel so as to produce. a similar effect upon anything that may be put into it in future. It is useful to 1160 CASSELL’S COOKERY. char the insides of these wooden vessels before they are used by burning wooden shavings, so as to coat the insides with a crust of charcoal. “ As whatever contaminates food in any way must be sure from the repetition of its baneful effects to injure the health, a due precaution with respect to all culinary vessels is necessary for its more certain preservation. There is a kind of hollow ironware lined with enamel, which is superior to every other utensil for sauces or preserves ; indeed it is preferable for every purpose. : i “A kitchen should always be well furnished ; there is no necessity that it should be profusely so, but there should be a sufficiency of everything which can aid in producing the dishes preparing with the success which is so essential to the gratifica- tion of the palate. A good workman cannot work well with bad tools, neither can good cooks do justice to their proficiency if they possess not the necessary utensils suitable to the various modes of cooking. And when this important point has been realised, cleanliness in every article used should be scrupulously observed; no utensil should be suffered to be put away dirty ; it not only injures the article itself materially, to say nothing of the impropriety of the habit, but prevents its readiness for use on any sudden occasion. No good cook or servant would be guilty of such an act. Cleanliness is a most essential ingredient in the art of cooking, and at any sacrifice should be maintained in the kitchen.” The following are the most important kitchen utensils :— Baxine Disa.—Ordinary baking dishes are made of earthenware. Some house- keepers prefer them made of tin or of iron, enamelled on the inside, as being more durable. M. Soyer invented an improved baking dish, to which was attached a movable false grating of wire, and in the centre of this was fixed a trivet three inches in height. He put the pudding at the bottom of the dish; he then put in the grating, on which he placed the potatoes, and on the trivet he put the meat. By this means the surplus fat, which would otherwise have fallen on the pudding and prevented its setting, would descend on the potatoes, making them delicate and crisp. Probable cost of baking dishes, 4d. upwards, according to size and quality. Beer Taps.—Beer taps ure made either of brass or wood. The former are the most durable, the latter’ the sweetest. Taps should always be brushed and laid in cold water for some hours after being taken out of one cask, before they are put into another. Several patent taps are sold of various kinds. One of these, the screw tap, is to be recommended to those who find it necessary to tap their own barrels and have a difficulty in doing it. The tap needs only to be pushed into the cork, and screwed round and round till the circular’ piece of metal presses upon the cork. Probable cost, taps made of brass, from 1s. 6d.; of wood, 4d.; screw taps, 2s. 6d. BoitEr.—In large families the boiler is in frequent requisition. It is used for boiling large joints, hams, &c. Boilers are made in various sizes of wrought-iron or cast-iron. The wrought-iron ones cost from 16s. to 22s, 6d. The cast-iron ones . from 4s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. Boilers should be washed out and dried perfectly as soon as possible after they are done with. The cover should be hung in the cupboard by the side of the pan when they are not in use. Borris Jack AND WHEEL.—A bottle jack is a useful little machine for roasting joints of meat or poultry before the fire. It is wound up like a watch, and its action keeps the meat turning round and round, thus causing it to be equally cooked. Probable cost, 8s. 6d., 10s, 6d., and 16s. 6d. Braisinc Pan or Braisikre.—A. braisiére is simply an oval stewpan, with a cover so formed that live embers can be held in it, and thus the cooking process can be carried on from above as well as below. These pans are made both of copper and of tinned iron. The latter are much cheaper than the former, and just as good. As braisiéres are not very common in ordinary kitchens, it may be said that a stew- pan of modern form which will admit of embers being placed upon the lid will answer the same purpose. Probable cost, copper braising pans, with fire-pan, cover, and draining plates, from £3 10s. to £6 10s., according to size. BreaD Grater.—aA bread grater is made of tin, and is used to crumble bread APPENDIX. smoothly, evenly, and finely. It may be bought in two or three sizes, and will cost from 9d. to 1s. 6d. CanisTERs.—Canisters in which to preserve tea, coffee, and various groceries are made of japanned tin. They should be emptied and washed out occasionally, and should then be dried perfectly before being used again. They may be bought of various sizes. Price, from’ 9d. Cask Stanp.—Cask stands are made to hold a cask of wine or ale quite steadily. They are so constructed that the cask can be raised when necessary so gently that the contents need not be shaken, and the liquor can be drawn off clear and bright to the last. Price 8s. 6d., 10s. 6d., and lls. 6d. Corrine Boarp anp Kyire.—When meat is to be minced for croquettes, kromeskies, rissoles, &e., or when suet or other ingredients are to be chopped very small, the task will be most easily accomplished upon a chopping board, with a knife adapted for the purpose. These boards have to a great extent been superseded by the sausage machines, which do their work quickly and thoroughly. A chopping board can be procured from 1s. to 2s., and a knife from 1s. 4d. A sausage machine costs from 10s. 6d. to 21s. Crocks.—A clock is indispensable in a kitchen where regularity and punctuality are to be observed. Clocks may be had at all sorts of prices. Excellent American clocks can be obtained at a very trifling cost. Coox’s Kyire.—lIt will facilitate the cook’s operations if she is provided with two or three sharp-pointed knives of different sizes. This kind of knife is much to be preferred to the short round-bladed knife. Probable cost, from 2s. Dicrster.—A digester is a most valuable utensil which cannot be too highly recommended to those who wish to preserve all the goodness that can be extracted from meat, bones, or vegetables. It is a kind of iron stock-pot, made with a lid which fits so closely into a groove at the top that no steam can escape that way, but only through a valve at the top. Care must be taken, therefore, in filling the digester to allow plenty of room for this escape—indeed the pot should never. be more than three-parts filled with water, bruised bones, and meat. The contents of the pan should be kept simmering very gently as long as may be necessary. A fierce heat would injure the quality of the preparation. Digesters are made in all sizes, holding from three quarts to ten gallons. The saucepan and stewpan digesters for making gravies hold from one to eight quarts. Probable cost, digester holding one gallon, 4s. 9d. ; holding four gallons, 9s. 8d. ; Dreperrs.—Dredgers for sugar and flour may be bought for about ls. Their use prevents waste, and also makes it easy for the cook to distribute the ingredients lightly and equally over the preparation. ; Drippinc Pan snp Bastine Lapie.—The dripping pan is placed under the joint to catch the fat and gravy which drops from it. This pan is constructed with a well in the centre, which is covered with a lid and surrounded with holes, so that the dripping can run into the well free from ashes. This lid can be lifted up when the meat is to be basted. The basting ladle is half covered with a piece of perforated metal, so that if any cinders should get into the dripping, they may be kept from falling, upon the meat. Dripping pans may be purchased, made of copper, and standing on legs, and the price of one of these with the well and ladle would be from £4 10s. to £11 10s., according to size. They are usually made of wrought-iron or of tin, and stands for them may be bought separately. The price of a good wrought-iron dripping pan on iron legs, with a well, would be from £1 18s. to £2 6s. The price of a good tin dripping pan would be about 8s. 6d., that of an iron stand about 4s. 6d., and a basting ladle from 2s. to 5s. 6d. a Eartuen Jars.—A most excellent mode of cooking is that which is accomplished by means of an ordinary earthen jar with a closely-fitting lid. Meat, fruit, and various farinaceous articles may be baked most satisfactorily in this way. The pro- cess is so gentle and gradual that the ingredients can scarcely be spoilt, and besides this, if the jar is closely covered the nourishment contained in the food cannot escape. The meat, fruit, rice, or whatever is to be cooked, should be placed in the jar with 1162 CASSELL’S COOKERY. the necessary quantity of liquid.:, The.jar should then be covered closely or pasted down, should be put in a shallow tin filled with boiling water, and put in the oven. The water should be kept boiling round it. The quantity of water-should be kept up (a little being added every now and then) until the preparation is. sufficiently baked. Probable cost, earthen jars from 9d., according to. size. ' Finrer.—A filter should be found in every house. No one who has given the least thought to the subject can doubt that health depends to a great extent upon the purity of the water which is drunk, and the water supplied to houses is often not fit for drinking purposes until it has been filtered. .A filter needs only to be filled regularly and cleaned out every week, and when this is done there is always at hand a supply of that necessary of life—pure drinking water. Filters may be procured from 6s. upwards. Fish Kerriz.—a fish kettle is fitted with a drainer, upon which the fish is to be placed, and which is pulled up when the fish is sufficiently boiled. The drainer should be placed across the kettle for a minute, and when the water has drained from it, it should be placed carefully on the dish. There are three or four shapes in fish kettles, constructed to suit the shape of different fish, such as a salmon kettle, a turbot kettle, and a carp kettle. .All are fitted with drainers. Price of fish kettle, from 7s. 6d. Fis S1icz.—A fish slice is made of perforated metal—tin or copper—and is used to lift the fish from the drainer to the dish upon which itis tobe served. A utensil of the same kind is used to lift poached eggs out of the water, and is also useful to preserve unbroken any article which needs to be carefully passed from the pan to the dish. Price, from 6d. Fryine Pay, Sautt Pan, OMELET Pan, anD Fish Fryer.—When a frying pan is spoken of it is generally understood to mean a shallow pan, made of iron or copper, in which any preparation that requires but little cooking can be tossed quickly over the fire. A pan with straight sides is named a sauté pan, and a smaller pan of the same kind, with sloping sides, and kept exclusively for omelets and dif- ferent preparations of batter, is called an omelet pan. It has been already explained that to fry anything is to boil it in fat: to sauté it is to cook it over the fire, one side at a time, in a very small quantity of fat. When a pancake, an omelet, or a chop are cooked in a small quantity of fat they are said to be.“ dry fried.” These distinctions are, however so little understood in English kitchens, that to adopt the correct terms would in nine cases out of ten be to cause.the recipes to be misunder- stood, therefore the usual word has been taken. Frying pans, or sauté pans, and omelet pans are made both of iron and copper. The former are most generally used. They should be kept scrupulously clean, and should never on any accowht be put away dirty. When not in use they should be hung in a dry, airy situation, where the dust cannot settle upon them. Before being used a little fat should. be heated in the pan, and when this is removed the pan should be wiped with a dry cloth. This will ensure its being perfectly free from damp. The same pan that is used for frying fish should not be taken for other ‘things. Deep. frying pans are sold on purpose for fish ; they are called fish fryers. They are in shape not unlike a pre- serving pan, and are fitted with a closely-made wire drawer, with handles at each end. The fish placed in this can be plunged at once into the boiling fat, and when ° done enough can be taken out of it and drained without much fear of being broken. The possession of one of these pans makes it a comparatively easy thing to fry fish. When they are not at hand, however, and they are not by any means in general’ use, the ordinary frying pan must be used instead. The fat used must be as deep as circumstances will permit, and if necessary the fish must be fried first upon one side and then turned over upon the other. Steaks and chops, though constantly fried, are much better broiled. When a prejudice exists in favour of dry frying, however, it should be remembered that the fat used should be allowed to become hot before the meat is placed in it. This will keep it from being greasy. Probable cost, iron frying pans and omelet pans from 1s. each ; copper ones from 6s. 6d. according to size. Fish fryers from 12s. 6d. APPENDIX, , 1163 Fouwyet, Tiv.—A tin funnel is used to prevent waste in passing’ liquid from one vessel to another. Tin funnels should always be scalded and dried perfectly after being used. Price, 4d. or 6d. : Gaurrre IRons.—Gaufire irons are a kind of tongs made for the purpose of baking small round cakes over the fire. Price, 7s. 6d. Guaze Pors.—A glaze pot and brush for heating and applying glaze somewhat resembles a glue kettle. When the utensil is not at hand, put the glaze into a jar, place this in a pan of boiling water, and keep the water ‘boiling round it till the glaze is'melted. Gravy Srrainers.—Gravy strainers are made of tin, and in various shapes and sizes. Perhaps the best and most convenient is one shaped like a jelly-bag, and perforated at the sides. Gravy strainers should be rinsed in hot water and dried each ‘time they are used. Probable cost, ls., 1s. 3d., and 1s. 6d. each. Gripirons.—The gridiron is an essential article among kitchen utensils, and indeed in all kitchens at least two should be kept—one for fish, and one for chops, steaks, &c. Gridirons are of various shapes and sizes, some being square and some round; or “circular gridirons” as they are called. -Some, too, consist of round parallel bars of iron, and some of fluted bars—i.e., gutter gridirons. . The circular gutter gridiron is of course adapted to close stoves, and the advantage that gutter gridirons possess over ordinary ones is that much of the fat, &c., that would otherwise fall in the fire and flare is ‘by this means saved. In all ordinary gridirons, of course, all that falls from the meat goes in the fire. Sometimes this is desirable, as in cooking a chop or steak the object of the cook is as much as possible to obtain a black colour outside and a red colour in. In using a gutter gridiron over a rather slack fire it will be found advisable to take a spoon and dip it into the reservoir into which the fat has run, and pour occasionally a few drops into the fire, thereby causing the flare that will turn the meat the colour desired. Very great pains should always be taken in the cleansing of gridirons. Those composed of round bars, after being carefully washed, should be rubbed with scouring paper, by which means only perfect cleanliness is attainable. - In cleaning gutter gridirons each gutter should be scraped separately till no stain is left, and extra precautions as to cleanliness should be observed always after cooking bloaters, haddocks, or indeed fish of any kind. In using a gridiron for grilling, care should always be taken in the early stages of the process to prevent whatever is grilled from sticking, and consequently burn- ing. For instance, when fish is grilled it will be always found advisable to rub the gridiron with a piece of mutton fat. Hor Croser.—A hot closet is a kind of cupboard connected with the range, furnished with shelves, upon which plates and dishes can be warmed, and in which. various kinds of confectionery can be dried. They are seldom used, excepting in hotels and very large establishments. Price, from 30s. to 60s. : Hor Water Diso.—Joints which are to be served very hot, and especially those which are liable to chill quickly, should be placed on-a hot water dish. This is a dish arranged with a double bottom, which can be filled with hot water, and which will keep hot both the dish which is over it, and the joint and the gravy which are upon it. The water ought to be boiling hot, and ought not to be poured into the dish until the last moment, Probable cost, for a 16-inch dish of Britannia metal, about 37s. 6d. Hot water plates of Britannia metal will cost about 9s. ; if made ‘of tin they will cost 3s. 6d. Covers for the same will cost from 1s. 6d. to 4s, 6d. Ice Maxine Macuines.—The following method is the one usually adopted for freezing various preparations :—Procure a few pounds of ice, ‘break it into small pieces, mix three or four'large handfuls of bay salt with it, and put it into an ice pail. Put the preparation into a freezing-pot, and cover it. Place this in the midst of the broken ice, cover it, and when it is cold twist it round rapidly, then work: it well with the spatula until it is smooth. If this is not done the ice will be lumpy. 1164 CASSELL’S COOKERY. Put it into a mould, and embed it in ice till it is set. In the piston freezing machine the preparation is placed in cylinders, and outside these are put pounded ice, salt, and a little water. The piston is then worked up and down, and this not only moves the ice and salt round the cylinders, but also moves the “stirrers” inside the cylinders, which makes the preparation smooth. When itis frozen it is pressed firmly down and moulded, then embedded in ice till it is quite set. Freezing powders for generating ice are much used. Some machines can be used with these powders only, others require a mixture of ice and salt. A freezing pail may be procured for about 7s. 6d. ; a pewter freezing pot which will hold one quart, for 12s. 6d.; two quarts, 16s. 6d.; three quarts, 25s.; a spatula for 5s.; freezing machines from 35s. Freezing powders are sold in boxes, or by the cwt. / Ice Sares on RerriceRators.—Ice safes are constructed for the purpose of keeping wines, jellies, butter, milk, &c., deliciously cool in summer time. The price varies according to size, which regulates also the quantity of ice required, per week. A small safe, 1 ft. 10 in. by 1 ft. 8 in. will need 40 lbs. of ice per week, and for a large one measuring 4 ft. 2 in. by 2 ft. 3 in., 150 lbs. will be requisite. There is an improved refrigerator which is fitted with a filter, and is so constructed that the water as it melts is drained into the filter, where it is kept ready for drinking, and ice cold. The cost of a refrigerator will be from £2 10s. to £8 8s,, according to size. IEf fitted with a filter it will be more expensive. JELLY Baes.—Jelly bags may be bought ready made, but they are much the best when made at home. Procure a piece of very stout flannel. That used for making ironing blankets is very good. Turn it cornerwise, and make it in the shape of a fool’s cap. Be careful to stitch the seams twice with strong thread, and fasten tapes round the top at equal distances, by means of which it may be suspended from the stand. The easiest way of using it is to fasten the mouth of the bag round a loop, and this will keep it open, so that the jelly may be conveniently poured into it. Stands are sold on purpose for jelly bags; when one of these is not at hand, the bag may be hung between two chairs turned back to back. A jelly bag may be made of any size. It should be dipped into hot water, and wrung quite dry before being used. Extempore jelly-bags may be made by tying a clean cloth on the legs of a chair turned upside down on a table. Jues, Kitcnen.—In, buying jugs, always choose the shape so that the cook’s hand can be easily inserted. Otherwise they are apt to be put by with a rim in the upper part of stale milk or beer, thus rendering sour the next liquid poured into them. Knire Baskers.—Knife baskets are made of wicker work, with a tin lining. They can be very easily washed out and dried. _ Probable cost of tinned baskets, 10s. Japanned baskets may be had for about 2s. Larpinc Nxrpues.—Larding needles are used in larding. They are made with split ends, and are intended to hold the little strips of bacon called lardons, which, by their means, are introduced into the surface of the meat. They are sold in boxes, which contain twelve needles of different sizes, or they may be bought separately, Probable cost, 9d. to 1s. each. Lemon Squrnzer.—By means of this little utensil the juice can be pressed from the lemon so thoroughly that scarcely a drop is left in it. As it is almost impossible to squeeze a lemon quite dry with the hand, the lemon squeezer may certainly be classed amongst the kitchen utensils which prevent waste. Price, 1s. 3d. to 1s. 6d. Marsie Stas For Pastry.—Puff paste ought properly to be rolled upon a marble slab ; it is then much more likely to be light and puffy than when it is rolled upon wood. Marble slabs are sold for the purpose. Probable cost, 1s. 6d. _ Meat Cuoprer.—A meat chopper is used to chop into small pieces and to dis- joint bones, which are to be stewed down for gravy or stock. The price is from 1s. 9d. to 3s. A meat cleaver to be used for the same purpose will cost from 4s. 6d. Mear Sares.—Meat safes belong properly to the larder. They are intended to preserve meat, pastry, éc., from flies and dust. They are almost indispensable in hot weather. It should be remembered that meat, &., should be-allowed to become perfectly cold before being put into the safe. Small wire safes may be bought for APPENDIX. 1165 about 1s.'6d., and large ones of the same kind for 6s. or 7s. Better and more durable ones made either to hang from the top of the larder or to fit in the window, and of various sizes, will cost from 22s. to 33s, Meat ScreEns.—Some meat screens are made of wood, lined with tin, and fitted with shelves upon which the plates and dishes can be warmed. The modern meat screen is a more compact affair. It is made of tin, and is constructed to condense the heat as much as possible. The joint is hung inside, and there is a place for the jack just above the screen, and connected with it. The advantage which this screen possesses over the old-fashioned one is that by its means a joint may be cooked at a comparatively small fire, on account of the heat being reflected from the tin upon the meat. Some persons object to it because they consider that the meat being so closely surrounded acquires a baked taste. Certainly the close screen should not be placed near the grate, or the joint will become hard and dry upon the surface. Probable cost, wood screen, from 30s. ; close screen, 16s. 6d. -MovuLps For Cakes anp Puppines.-—Cakes are generally baked in tin moulds, and a large choice of these is offered to the:purchaser. Puddings may either be boiled in moulds or in plain pudding basins with a rim. Many puddings, especially those into the composition of which bread enters, are both lighter and drier when boiled in a stout cloth, rather than in a mould. Probable cost of pudding and cake moulds, from 4s. 6d. ; pudding basins, from 6d. Mov ps ror JELLY.—Moulds for jelly may be purchased so pretty and so artistic that they need to be seen to be appreciated. There are plain moulds of all shapes and sizes, and if these have a bunch of fruit or any similar design on the top, a pretty effect may be produced by colouring suitably the jelly which will fill that portion of the mould. Particular care must be taken to colour only as much jelly as is required, and the coloured part must be allowed to go quite stiff before the rest of the jelly, which should of course be perfectly cold, is placed upon it. Open moulds, or rather border moulds, are also made, which leave the jelly with an opening in the centre to be filled with whipped cream. By means of the more elaborate moulds, jellies beautiful in appearance may be turned out. Amongst these may be mentioned the Belgrave mould, the Alexandra mould, and the star mould. These moulds are provided with movable interiors so constructed that a transparent jelly can be poured into the outer portion of the mould, and when this is quite stiff the lining can be removed, and the cavity filled with an opaque jelly, which, being dis- cernible through the transparent exterior, has a very good appearance. Simple earthenware moulds can be purchased from 2s. 6d. ; copper moulds cost from 9s. 6d. ; border moulds, 12s. 6d.; and moulds with movable linings, about 22s. 6d. To use the Belgrave Mould.—Pour some clear bright jelly round but not into the cylinders. When this is quite set, pour a little warm water into the cylinders for a moment, then withdraw the lining, and fill the cavities with bright-coloured jellies or cream of different colours, or with fruit, which can be kept in its place by pouring a small portion of liquid jelly upon it after it is arranged. The space which was occupied by the central cylinder may be left empty, and filled just before the jelly is served with white or coloured whipped cream. To use the Alexandra Mould.—Put the mould in ice. Fill the first cross with white jelly, and when this is stiff fill the second cross with pink jelly, and let this algo stiffen. Put the lining in the mould, and fill the space outside it as far as the plain band of the mould with pink jelly. When this is stiff, pour a little warm water into the lining to loosen it. Withdraw it instantly, and fill the cavity with white jelly or blancmange. When this is set, fill the plain band of the mould with bright yellow jelly. When this jelly is turned out it will represent the Danish cross upon a golden ground. ; a To use the Star Mould.—Put the mould in ice, then fill the circle at the top with bright red jelly. When this is set, fill the smaller star with silver jelly. Let this set, and fill the large star with red again. Put the lining into the mould, and fill the space outside it, as far as the plain band of the mould, with clear jelly. With- draw the lining, and fill the empty space with blancmange. When this is perfectly 1166 CASSELL’S COOKERY. stiff pour as much red jelly into. hes band, vei ne he. mould as will fill.it.. When this is quite stiff the jelly.is ready to be turned ont. To turn jelly out of the mould dip the mould quickly in and out of boiling water. » Shake it gently, place a glass dish upon it, and turn it gexetully upside. down. If necessary give it a sharp tap with a knife or spoon. Mourps ror Ratsep. Pres.—Moulds for raised pies are made to open, which renders it a comparatively easy task both to. form the pie.and to turn it, out. when baked. The cost is about 6s. 6d. ._ Nurmzc Grarer.—A nutmeg grater is made of tin, perforated with holes, and presenting a rough surface upon which nutmegs or whole ginger can be rubbed to powder. It generally constitutes a portion of the spice-box. When bought separately it, can be procured for 1d. or 2d. Paste Boarp. and Roiiine Pin.—Pastry-boards are plain smooth boards, upon which pastry can be rolled. They are generally made of common wood, but the best kinds are made of box-wood. Even these, however, are not to be compared with marble slabs. Pastry-boards should be kept scrupulously clean, should. be: scrubbed well every time they are used, and should be hung in a dry situation where they will be in no danger of mildewing. Probable cost of pastry-board and roller, from 2s. 6d. Paste Jaccer AnD Corner Curren. Thess utensils are used for. trimming and cutting. pastry. .The wheel which is placed at the end of the pastry:jagger is used to: mark pastry which is to be divided after it is baked. Probable cost, 1s. | _ Parry Pans.—These little pans which are used for baking tarts, cheesecakes, &e., tre made of tin. They may be procured of all shapes ane sizes. Probable cost, 1s. or 1s.,6d. per dozen. Peprer Miti.—A pepper mill can be so regulated thas the pepper shall be either ane or coarse. Probable cost, 4s. 3d.; if made of steel, £1 2s. 6d. Prsttes AND Mortars. —These utensils are used to pound. various ingredients, and are exceedingly useful in cookery..,, They, are sold made of: both brass and. iron, but these are neither so sweet, nor are they so easily kept clean, as when made either of marble or wedgewood-ware. . They: should. be washed and dried perfectly each time they, are used. Probable cost, 148, 6d. - Pate Racx.—A plate rack is a convenient article used in washing plates and ishes. The plates should be first scraped, then washed in hot water with a little soda, and wiped with the dish-cloth, rinsed in cold, water, and drained on the rack: In a short time they can be taken. ‘down. and put away, and will present a bright shiny surface, without any of those streaks showing the marks of the dish-cloth, which are enough to take the edge off the keenest appetite. The water in which plates are washed should be changed frequently. Probable cost of plate rack, 12s. _Piate WarMers.—Plate warmers are stands constructed for the purpose of heating plates.that are to be used at table. They are made in various shapes, and are placed before. the fire in such a position that they catch the heat which radiates from it. Many modern ranges are made with a shelf, upon, which plates can. be put, and this dispenses with the necessity of a separate plate warmer. Probable cost, from 16s. . Porato Pastry Pan.—This pan is shaped something like a baking-dish, and it is made with a perforated plate, with its.valve-pipe screwed on. A delicate and savoury preparation may be prepared init. For instructions as to its use, see Hoteto Pastry, Modern. Probable cost, 4s. or 4s. 6d. Potato Steamers.—A potato steamer is a pan with a perforated: tin botton, which is made to fit closely into an iron saucepan below it. The potatoes are placed in the upper pan, and are cooked by the steam which rises from the boiling. water in the lower one. There is an improved steamer which is made with a handle, which can. be drawn out when the pétatoes are done enough, thus allowing the steam to escape, so that the heat from below dries the polators already cooked. Probable cost of improved steamer, 7s. to 8s. Preservinc Pans.—Preserving. pans are senccally: made of copper. They are used for making jams, jellies, and marmalade. They should be cleaned with scrupu- APPENDIX. 1167 lous care each time they are used. Enamel-lined iron pans are now much used for preserving. .They are much cheaper than copper or “brass” pans, and will last for years if-carefully used. If put upon.the stove empty, or if over-heated, the enamel will crack. , Probable cost: of preserving-pan, 10. inches across, 12s. 6d.; the: price increasing with the size. Enamel-lined iron pans will be less than half.the cost. Puppine Crotus.—Pudding cloths should be kept-scrupulously clean, otherwise they may impart.an unpleasant taste to the pudding. As‘soon as they are done with they should be thrown into water, and allowed to soak until they are washed. Very hot water, but no soap, should be used in washing them. They should be dried out of doors, and'kept in a dry clean place... Pudding cloths are sometimes made of thick soft cord, loosely knitted, and these mark the pudding boiled in them, and give it a pretty appearance. In order to prevent a pudding. which is boiled ina cloth from sticking to the bottom of a saucepan, a plate or saucer should be placed underneath it. ‘Puddings which are steamed do not need to be boiled in a cloth. _ They are put into a well-greased: basin or mould with a piece of buttered. kitchen paper laid over them... .The basin:may then be placed in a.stewpan with boiling water two inches deep. .Steamed puddings are lighter than boiled ones, but they take longer to cook. Ranoes, KircuEen.— The “range”-—where shall we draw the line between the long rows of hot: plates, &c., that are necessary in the grand hotel and the modest little grate in the artisan’s cottage, or indeed the fire inclosed between a few open bricks which support the soldier’s cooking-pot containing perchance the hastily- cut steak from the flank of the warrior’s steed? To be practical, however, we need seek neither the camp nor the court, but rather the ordinary dwellings of those whom the large majority of the recipes we have published are chiefly intended to benefit, and the very first point that it is necessary for us to consider is the advantages and disadvantages of open and shut stoves. One of the chief points in favour of all close ranges is that there is no fear of any of the dishes cooked being sent to table smoky. Secondly, a far greater number of saucepans can be kept hot on a close range than on an open fire, and it is far more easy to regulate the heat. Too often in open fireplaces when saucepans are left for a short time they will boil over. Thirdly, in using close ranges the outsides of the saucepans do not get.covered: with soot, as is necessarily the case in open fireplaces. The best close ranges are also fitted up with a rack over the top for warming plates. In roasting joints care should be taken that a current of air passes through the oven or roaster while the meat is cooking, as by: this means that peculiar greasy flavour detected too often in meat that has been baked will be avoided. Another purpose to which close stoves can be turned is that of an ironing stove,, and undoubtedly close stoves for ironing purposes generally, but especially for heating irons, possess enormous advantages over open grates. There is one point in connection with stoves to which I would call particular attention, and that is the boiler. This latter indispensable part of every stove should always be made to fill itself, and. also should be made. so that-it can be easily got at for the purpose of being cleaned. In shut stoves it will generally be found that the boiler is more accessible than in the old-fashioned open grates, and this is another important advantage possessed. by the close oven. When boilers do not fill themselves they are very apt to be forgotten by even careful servants, and are almost certain to be neglected by the average run of. servants in the present day. You will therefore run the following risk :—The boiler will get empty and then hot. The servant finding it empty will take a can of cold water, and without thinking of. the risk she is running fill the boiler just as it is, thereby cracking it probably, and doing some pounds’ worth of mischief. Again, you have a still greater risk to run. Supposing the fire to have been very fierce, and the boiler to have got red-hot, then: the water when poured into the boiler by a careless servant gets quickly converted into steam, and an explosion occurs that may be serious. An explosion from this very cause occurred many years back at a house in Gower Street. 1168 CASSELL'S COOKERY. We will now name some of the disadvantages of the close stoves. One of the most commonly felt is perhaps the difficulty of airing clothes. The close stoves, unless heated almost to redness, rarely throw out sufficient heat to air linen properly ; and in families where there are many young children the inconvenience is consider- able, unless other fires are lit for the purpose. Secondly, close stoves undoubtedly do not cook large joints, such as haunches of mutton, equally well with large open grates, owing to the fact that basting is so much easier a process in the latter than in the former. And basting is an important point in roasting, and one that is too often overlooked. Another drawback to shut-up stoves, especially those in which the fire is quite closed from view, is that servants are apt to overlook the fire altogether, and let it go out. In choosing close stoves, it is always as well to guard against: those whose chief merit seems to consist in a number of ingenious contrivances, such as regulating the flow of air, adapting the hot plate to different-sized saucepans, &c. Ash trays, iron rings, knobs, d&sc., are all liable to break, and some of these small stoves, that are not bricked into the fireplace, but stand on four legs like a table, will often be found very brittle, and are sometimes even broken in being put up. They are also apt to crack if, when hot, a little cold water is spilt on them, and as this is a probable occurrence occasionally in every kitchen, of course these stoves possess but little wear. SataD Basket.—This is a wire basket of a peculiar form, used to shake salad in, so as to dry it perfectly after it has been washed. In France these baskets are in very general use. When they are not at hand, the salad, after being washed, should be put a small quantity at a time into a clean dry cloth. This should be taken up by the four corners and shaken till the salad is dry, when it may be put into the salad bowl. An ingenious person could twist a little wire to form a basket, which would answer the purpose intended. Probable cost, 3s. or 4s. 6d. SALAMANDER.—A salamander is used to impart a brown colour to any preparation wanting it. The instrument is made red-hot, and is held close to the preparation until it is sufficiently browned. When a pulamanider is not at hand, a fire shovel made red-hot will answer the same purpose. Probable cost, from 6s. 9d. SaucEePans.—Saucepans are of various kinds, and are made in all sizes. In a well-furnished kitchen there is generally a complete set, with the sizes in gradation, and the efficient cook prides herself not only upon their perfect cleanliness inside, but upon their bright and polished exteriors. Saucepans are made of tinned copper, iron, plain or lined with tin or enamel, tin and earthenware. Copper saucepans are the best, but they are very expensive. Wrought-iron saucepans, tinned inside, though not so durable, are quite as good for all practical purposes. Those most frequently used are made either of cast-iron or of blocked-tin. Cast-iron saucepans are frequently lined with enamel. With care they will last for years. Blocked-tin ones also are very good, and though not quite so durable, can be mended more easily than iron ones, Small saucepans are made of porcelain also. They are excellent for sauces and very delicate preparations, and can be washed like a plate. The objection to them is that they are exceedingly brittle. They crack very quickly. All saucepans of whatever kind should be kept scrupulously clean. They should be washed, scoured with fine sand or ashes, and well rinsed each time they are used. Tinned saucepans should be examined frequently, and as soon as the tin shows any sign of wearing off, they should bere-tinned. This is especially necessary with copper saucepans, which, when red, not only spoil the colour of anything that is boiled in them, but make it poisonous. Common brown earthenware pipkins are now sold by large dealers ; but are not yet commonly used. They are cheap, good, and serviceable. Probable cost of saucepans, exceedingly variable, according to size and ay: Saw.—A meat saw is used for dividing the bones of a fresh joint. The meat will of course need to be cut close to the bone before the saw can be used. The saw should be carefully wiped when it is done with, and hung in a dry safe place. If any damp gets to it, it will rust, and be quite spoilt. Probable cost, from 3s. 9d. ScaLes AND WEIGHTs.—Although some cooks are very proud of being able to APPENDIX. ‘ 1169" make their dishes “by guess,” their method is not one which is to be imitated, because it is not to be relied upon. Preciseness in apportioning the ingredients to be used is indispensable to the cook who would be always successful, and therefore there is scarcely a more important kitchen utensil than a set of scales and weights. The weights should range from } oz. to 7 lbs. They should be put away as soon as they are used, as the small ones especially are very easily lost, and they should be carefully kept in regular order. When anything of a greasy nature has to be weighed, it should be put upon a piece of paper, otherwise it will spoil the scale. Probable cos‘, £1. -SIEVES.—-Sieves of different kinds are very essential kitchen utensils. There are hair sieves and wire sieves ; the latter are the stronger, and more durable, the former the finer of the two. All purées ought to be rubbed patiently through a sieve, and various sauces are much improved by being passed either through a sieve or a tamis. Wire sieves are intended for materials which could not be made to pass through a hair sieve. Probable cost, hair sieve, from 1s, ; brass-wire sieves, 4s. Skewers.—-A set of skewers can be procured at a very trifling cost. Those who have experienced the inconvenience of being without these insignificant but useful little articles, will take care to keep a supply on hand. Sric— Boxes.—Spice boxes are divided into compartments in which the different kinds of spices can be kept. The nutmegs are generally putin the centre, in a box which forms the grater. The assistance which it.is to the cook to have ingredients of this kind together, yet separate, and close at hand when wanted, can only be understood by those who have known the hindrance which is caused by a different: arrangement. Probable cost, 3s., 4s., and 4s. 6d. : Spit.—The spit is simply the bar from which the joint is suspended when roast- ing. It should be kept bright and clean, and should be carefully wiped before being used. The meat should be well balanced upon it, as otherwise it will not turn steadily. When poultry or boned joints have to be roasted, a cradle spit is to be preferred to the ordinary spit, as the latter is sure to occasion the escape of some of the juices by the necessary perforation of the joint. In the cradle spit the meat instead of being pierced is held in a sort of cradle. Sreax Tones.—Steak tongs are intended to turn steaks or chops when they are being broiled or fried, without piercing the meat in any part, as this causes the escape of the juices. When steak tongs are not at hand, the cook should be particu- larly careful in turning the steak to injure it as little as possible. She should on no account stick a fork into the lean portion, as this would inevitably make the meat dry and flavourless. Probable cost, 2s. per pair. Stewpans.—A stewpan differs from a saucepan in this, that it has a flat lid, with a handle, which fits very closely into the pan, and thus prevents the escape of the steam. Stewpans are made, like saucepans, of different materials, and in various sizes. They vary in price according to their quality. They are generally made with straight sides. (See Saucepans.) : : : « Stock Por.—Stock pots are made of tinned copper, tinned iron, cast-iron, and : earthenware. The two first are the best, because they are the most easily cleaned. Tinned iron stock pots answer their purpose just as well as copper ones, and are much less expensive. Some stock pots are fitted with a tap, by means of which a little clear liquid can be drawn off without disturbing either the sediment at the bottom or the scum which may be at the top. Stock pots should be washed and scoured with fine sand, and rinsed and dried each time they are used. They should never be put away dirty. The stock should on no account be allowed to remain in them all night. The quality of the stock depends in a great measure upon the cleanliness of the pot. Probable cost, copper stock pots, from £1 14s. ; fitted with taps, from £3 15s. : tinned iron stock pots, from 17s. 6d. ; with taps, from 30s. Tamis.—A tamis or tammy cloth is a piece of thin woollen canvas, used in straining soups and sauces. Probable cost, 2s. 3d. each. : -Tartier Trxs.—Tartlet tins are made of tin, and are used for baking the. trimmings of pastry rolled out smoothly and very thin, ' The jam is better to he T4—N.E. 1170 CASSELL’S COOKERY. spread on after the tartlet is baked, and small ornaments of pastry which have been stamped out with the cutter, and baked separately, may be laid on the jam. Tarilet tins should be oiled or buttered before the pastry is put on. When they are done with they should be scalded and dried, and kept in a dry place. Tea Kerriz.—tea kettles are made of copper, iron, and blocked-tin. Iron kettles are very durable, but the water in them is a long time in coming to the boil. Blocked-tin kettles boil quickly, but they: have not nearly so much wear in them as an iron kettle. Blocked-tin kettles, with copper bottoms, are perhaps better than any other, as they are durable, and the water in them boils quickly. Copper kettles are generally intended to be brought into the dining-room. They should be cleaned every day either with vitriol or with oil and emery-powder. A tarnished copper kettle has a very bad appearance. Probable cost, blocked-tin kettle, 3s. The price increases with the quality and size. Tones.—One very important accompaniment to the gridiron is a pair of cooking tongs for turning chops and steaks. Cooks should never by any chance stick a fork into a steak or chop, as thereby all the gravy is let out, runs into the fire, and is wasted, and the meat instead of looking red inside will look white. When a chop or steak is cooked again, the cook should never cut it open to see if it is done, but should simply judge from pinching it with the tongs. If it feels what may be described as spongy outside, it is evidently blue in the middle. The meat when. pinched should feel soft; but neither hard which means over-cooked, or spongy which’ means underdone. When there are no tongs for the purpose, the chop or steak is. best turned by means of two iron spoons. ; Tursor Kerriz.—A turbot kettle is a fish kettle made broad and shallow to. suit the shape of the fish for which it is intended. It is fitted with a drainer, like an ordinary fish kettle. Price, from £1. VEGETABLE CurrEers.—Vegetable cutters are sold in boxes, and are used to. stamp vegetables into neat shapes for garnishing dishes. The appearance of a dish is very much improved if the turnips and carrots placed round it are shaped, instead . of being plainly sliced. Probable cost, vegetable cutters, 3s. a box. Vegetable scoops are sold for the same purpose. They cost 1s. 6d. each. Warren’s Cooxine Pot.—Probably by means of this invention less food is wasted than in any other known methods of cooking. For instance, when a leg of mutton is roasted or baked, a certain amount of flavour and nutriment must of necessity.go up the chimney; or when a leg of mutton is boiled, a certain amount of juice necessarily goes into the water in which it is boiled. Warren’s cooking pot cooks meat in an almost air-tight chamber, heated by steam. Thus the meat cooks in its own vapour. : W is a large oval-shaped pot, into which is fitted an inner case a, leaving a space into which water is poured. The lid c may now be placed on, and the pot, so far as cooking meat is concerned, is complete. The meat of course is placed in the chamber A. The pot is placed on the fire, and the water in w kept boiling, the steam of course arising and surrounding the chamber a, but not entering it, . The lid c is made double for the purpose of condensing the steam, which runs back into w. There is, however, a small hole in the lid c in the top, in order to let out the steam in case it should boil too fast. A good-sized leg of mutton takes about three hours to cook by this means. Shortly before it is done, open the chamber a, and’. pour into a basin all the liquor and melted fat that has run out of the leg of mutton owing to the heat, and replace the mutton in a. Strain off the fat, which of course must be kept for dripping, and warm up this liquor (from the condensation of the steam of the mutton, perchance increased by a trifling escape from the steam in the outer chamber) fresh in a small saucepan, and use it as the gravy to pour over the meat when served on a dish. In a leg of mutton cooked in Warren’s cooking pot, a saving of quite ten per cent., if not more, is effected. Joints of meat can be cooked in Warren’s pot till nearly done, and then browned before the fire, but a leg of mutton served as a boiled leg cooked this way is far preferable. The portion B of the pot is for cooking vegetables, and can be placed on the top of the chamber A’ APPENDIX, 1171 aM = before the lid is placed on, and the same lid then fits on B. There is a'small tube connecting B with w, so that the steam rises into B, into which vegetables may’ -be placed, that are thus cooked by steam during the same time that the meat is being cooked in its own vapour in the chamber a. “ ; For travellers camping out there is probably no invention in the world in‘relation to cooking so useful as Captain Warren’s cooking pot. A few bricks may be collected and ranged round with spaces between, filled with a little coke or coal, —- =4 ——— and the pot placed-on the top. All that ; dier’s bayonet, as if served up in the most at mh SRT TTT AW cleansed, and then put by in separate is necessary is to keep in the fire, and ‘ ee the = ee ee ese after a time, A | ti i i i en as an a aiad be Bel ve ee ge —— pieces, and not all fitted together. Of | | l i i course, quite new pots require washing and boiling to get rid of that tin flavour peculiar to all new tin vessels. Wuisk.—There are several kinds of egg whisks; the one generally used costs 2 6d. or 8d. Our grandmothers dispensed ~ with an egg whisk altogether, and used either a knife or a fork. Whatever whisk is used, the white of eggs will never froth properly unless the bowl into which they are broken is quite cold, and unless they are perfectly free from the least speck of yolk. It is best to whisk them in a cold place. 2 Wire Fryinc Basker.—This is a basket made of wire to fit inside a frying pan; it is used to fry parsley, herbs, and various vegetables, as well as patties, croquettes, rissoles, and preparations of a similar nature. The articles to be fried should be put into the basket, and this should be plunged quickly into hot fat, and withdrawn when they are done enough. They will, of course, need to be well drained. Probable cost, 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. An ingenious person could make a basket of twisted wire which would answer the required purpose. Wire Stanp.—When meat is to be baked in the oven it should be placed on a wire stand in the baking-tin. This will keep it from having the sodden taste which ib would certainly get if it were laid flat in the tin. If liked, potatoes or a pudding can be baked under the meat. Probable cost, 6d. SSS CAPTAIN WARREN’S COOKING POT. LISTS OF KITCHEN UTENSILS. The following lists are given for the purpose of assisting those who are about to furnish their kitchen in selecting the necessary articles. With kitchen , utensils, as with everything else, the purchaser must first consider the extent of his resources; and it is frequently the case that articles must be dispensed with which. every one acknowledges it is desirable to possess. The lists are: made out for a large, a medium, and a small set of kitchen utensils. There is 1172 CASSELL’S COOKERY. one consideration which should not be forgotten, and that.is that a clever cook will produce a good dinner with utensils that would be considered a sufficient excuse for total failure by an inefficient one, and in nothing is the skill of the workman shown so much as in the way he can manage inconveniences. Whether the supply of kitchen utensils be limited or ample, it cannot be too strongly insisted upon that they should be kept scrupulously clean. Cleanliness is the soul of good cookery. It has been already said that every utensil should be cleaned properly each time it is used, and that not one should ever be put away dirty. The kitchen should be kept clean and well ventilated, and when the cooking is over should be perfectly free from smell. The sink should be scoured every day with boiling water and a little soft soap, then thoroughly rinsed. If the kitchen is small and inconvenient, there is all the more need that care should be taken to keep it clean, and to preserve in good order the utensils which have to be kept in it. ARTICLES TO BE Founp In a LarGE, WELL-APPOINTED KITCHEN. 1 Large Wooden Meat Screen, with Hot Closet. 1 Toasting Fork. 1 Basting Ladle. 1 Weighing Machine and Weights, to weigh 1 Cradle Spit. up to 28 lbs. 2 Polished Iron Meat Spits. 1 Marble Mortar and Hardwood Pestle. 2 Holdfasts for Joints. 4 Hair Sieves. 1 Dripping Pan, with Well. 1 Wire Basket for Salad. 1 Meat Cleaver. 1 Brags-wire Sieve. 1 Saw. 3 Block-tin Gravy Strainers, different sizes. 1 Bottle Jack. ‘ 1 Spice Box. 12 Stewpans, in sizes, 1 pint to 9 quarts. 1 Bread Grater. 6 Iron Saucepans, in sizes. 1 Egg Whisk. 2 Iron Saucepans, with Steamers, 6 to 8 quarts. 1 Egg Slice. 2 Gridirons. 1 Dozen Patty Pans. 1 Bain Marie, with 6 Stewpans, 1 Soup Pot, 3 Tartlet Pans. and 1 Glaze Pot. 4+ Dozen Mince Pie Tins. 1 Braising Pan, with Drainer and Fire Cover. 1 Box Paste Cutters. 1 Digester. 1 Paste Jagger. 1 Preserving Pan. 1 Box Vegetable Cutters. 1 Preserving Spoon. 3 Baking Sheets. 1 Sugar Boiler. 1 Marble Slab for Pastry. 1 Fish Frier, with Drainer for Frying Fish. 1 Rolling Pin. 2 Sauté Pans. 1 Coffee Mill. 1 Omelet Pan. 1 Jelly Bag and Stand. 1 Tea Kettle. 6 Jelly Moulds. 2 Frying Baskets. 3 Cake Moulds. 2 Fish Kettles, different sizes, and 1 Fish Slice. 3 Pudding Moulds. 1 Set Poultry Skewers. 1 Vegetable Mould. 1 Set Meat Skewers. 1 Mincing Machine. 3 Cook’s Knives. 1 Freezing Pot, 1 Freezing Pail, 1 Spatula, 12 Tinned-iron Spoons, in sizes. and 1 Ice Pudding Mould, or 1 Root Knife. 1 Piston Freezing Machine. 6 Tinned Meat Hooks. 1 Ice Closet. 2 Dishing-up Forks. 1 Corkscrew. 1 Pair Steak Tongs. 1 Block-tin Colander. 1 Cutlet Bat. 1 Tin Funnel. 1 Chopping Board and Knife. 1 Flour Dredger. 1 Trussing Needle. 1 Sugar Dredger. 2 Larding Needles. 3 French Vegetable Scoops. 1 Salamander. 1 Filter. Mepicm Ser. 1 Wooden Meat Screen. 2 Enamelled Stewpans. 1 Bottle Jack. 1 Fish Kettle. 1 Dripping Pan and Stand. 1 Fish and Egg Slice. 1 Basting Ladle. 1 Paste Board and Rolling Pin. 3 Iron Saucepans. 12 Patty Pans. 3 Block-tin Saucepans. 2 Tart Pans. 1 Large Boiler. 1 Paste Jagger. 1 Iron Digester. 1 Gridiron. 1 Iron Saucepan and Steamer. 2 Frying Pans. APPENDIX. s ! 1173 1 Omelet Pan i : 1 Chopping Board and Knife. 2 Sets of Skewers. 1 Set of Scales and Wei Hs, 1 Hair Sieve. 1 Filter. oo 1 Jelly Bag. 1 Colander 1 Flour Dredger. 1 Spice Box. 1 Pair Steak Tongs. 6 Tinned-iron Spoons. 1 Bread Grater. 1 Funnel. ; Honeng Fork. 1 Gravy Strainer. ettle. I Box Cutters. 3 Deas pease, 1 Coffee Mill. elly Moulds. : 2 Pudding Moulds. : ig ee ? 2 Cake Moulds. 1 Ege Whisk 1 Meat Chopper. 2 Baking Tins. Satz Ser. 1 Meat Screen, with Bottle Jack, Drippin 1 Hair Si ‘Tin, and Basting Ladle. ee 1 ‘Telly og 1 Digester. 2 Pastry Cutters. 2 Iron Saucepans. 2 Tron Stewpans. 1 Boiler. 1 Fish Kettle and Slice. 1 Enamelled Saucepan. 1 Gridiron. 1 Frying Pan. 1 Omelet Pan. 1 Spice Box. 1 Filter. 1 Paste Board and Rolling Pin. 1 Flour Dredger. 12 Patty Pans. 1 Chopping Board and Knife, 1 Colander. 1 Gravy Strainer. 1 Funnel. 1 Baking Tir. 1 Set of Skewers. 1 Set of Scales and Weights. 1 Jelly Mould. 1 Cake Mould. 1 Pudding Mould. 2 Large Iron Spoons. 1 Kettle. B.—SEASONABLE FOOD. January. Meat.—Beef, mutton, pork, house-lamb, doe- venison. Game and Poultry.—Hares, rabbits, pheasants, partridges, woodcocks, snipes, fowls, chickens, capons, pullets, grouse, wild fowl, turkeys, tame pigeons. Fish.—Turbot, soles, flounders, plaice, skate, whitings, cod, haddocks, herrings, smelts, lam- preys, oysters, lobsters, crabs, prawns, eels, carp, tench, perch, mussels. Vegetables —Cabbages, broccoli, savoys, en- diye, sprouts, Scotch kale, sea-kale, spinach, lettuces, celery, cardoons, carrots, parsnips, beetroot, salsify, turnips, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, onions, leeks, garlic, shallots, mus- tard and cress, cucumbers, mushrooms. Garden herbs, both dry and green, being chiefly used in stuffing and soups, and for flavouring and garnishing certain dishes, are always in season : tarragon, chervil, savory, mint, sage, thyme, parsley, &c., may be procured all the year round. Fruits.—Apples, pears, medlars, figs, raisins, currants, prunes, grapes, walnuts, nuts, filberts, almonds, oranges, lemons, melons, bananas, po- ; meloes, shaddocks. Preserved and dried fruits of all kinds may be used throughout the winter, as also jams, marmalades, and fruit jellies. Especially in Season in January.—Haddocks. whitings, tench, skate, hares, rabbits. io ‘February. Meat. — Beef, mutton, house-lamb, veni- son. 3 Game and Poultry.—Hares, rabbits, pheasants, partridges, woodcocks, snipes, pigeons, turkeys, fowls, pullets, capons, chickens, green geese, ducks, ducklings, wild ducks, wild geese, turkey poults. Fish.—Flounders, brill, plaice, skate, soles, turbot, codfish, whitings, smelts, sturgeon, herrings, haddocks, sprats, oysters, mussels, cockles, crabs, crayfish, prawns, shrimps, barbels, carp, eels, perch, pike, tench, trout, salmon-trout. 7 Vegetables. — Broccoli, cabbages, Brussels sprouts, savoys, celery, cardoons, lettuces, en- dive, spinach, serrel, forced French beans, potatoes, carrots, parsnips, turnips, . beetroot, chervil, cresses, and all small salads, tarragon, 1174 CASSELL’S COOKERY. scorzonera, cucumbers, mushrooms, onions, parsley, sage, shallots, thyme, mint, and all garden herbs, fresh or dried, Jerusalem arti- chokes, dried peas, and beans. Fruits.—Apples, pears, grapes, oranges, bana- nas, pomeloes, shaddocks, almonds, nuts, ches- uuts, walnuts, figs, raisins, currants, filberts, prunes, all sorts of preserved and dried fruita, jams, marmalades, and fruit jellies, and forced strawberries. Especially in Season in February.—Skate, tench, dace, ducklings, turkey poults, green geese. March. Meat.—Beef, veal, mutton, house-lamb, pork, doe-venison. Game and Poultry.—Fowls, chickens, turkeys, ducks, pigeons, rabbits, guinea-fowl, woodcocks, snipe. Fish.—Turbot, whiting, soles, plaice, floun- ders, skate, oysters, lobsters, erabs, prawns, crayfish, cod, smelts, cels, carp, tench, mullet, mackerel, mussels. Vegetables.—Savoys, cabbages, sprouts, spin- ach, lettuces, radishes, turnips, carrots, parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes, potatoes, mushrooms, parsley and other garden herbs, onions, leeks, Scotch kale, broccoli, scorzonera, beet, salsify, sea-kale, chives, celery, cress, mustard, sorrel, horse-radish, rhubarb, shallots, cucumbers. | Fruit.—Apples, pears, oranges, forced straw- berries, dried and preserved fruits as in Feb- ruary. Especially in Season in March.—Mackerel, anullet, skate, whiting, prawns, tench. April. Meat.—Beef, mutton, grass-lamb, house- Jamb, veal, pork. Game and Poultry.—Pullets, chickens, fowls, -green geese, ducklings, pigeons, wood pigeons, rabbits, leverets, turkey poults. Fish.—Chub, carp, brill, cockles, conger-eels, ‘cod, crabs, dory, flounders, eels, halibut, ling, ‘herrings, lobsters, mullet, mackerel, mussels, perch, oysters, pike, plaice, salmon, prawns, “shrimps, skate, smelt, tench, sturgeon, soles, ‘trout, whitings, turbot. Vegetables.—Asparagus, beans, fennel, endive, “broccoli, cucumbers, chervil, lettuces, parsley, onions, peas, rhubarb, turnips, sorrel, sea-kale, ‘radishes, spinach, turnip-tops, small salad, ‘parsnips. Frwits.—Apples, oranges, pears, early straw- berries, walnuts. Especially in Season in April,—Salmon, tench, prawns, crabs, lobsters, grass-lamb, asparagus, cucumbers. May. Meat.—Beef, mutton, house-lamb, grass-lamb, pork, veel. Game and Poultry.—Fowls, pigeons, pullets, ducklings, chickens, green geese, wood pigeons, rabbits, leverets. Fish.—Eels, conger-eels, carp, cod, crabs, dace, brill, flounders, ling, lobsters, mackerel, perch, mullet, prawns, plaice, pike, salmon, smelts, shrimps, whitings, chub, crayfish, gurnet, dory, haddocks, herrings, halibut, tur- bot, trout, soles, sturgeon, tench. Vegetables. —Cabbage, carrots, asparagus, kidney beans, chervil, turnips, spinach, sorrel, sea-kale, lettuces, peas, rhubarb, corn salad, cu- cumbers, cauliflowers, radishes, onions, arti- chokes, new potatoes, salads generally, Fruits.—Apples, pears, cherries, currants, scarlet strawberries, gooseberries, melons, apri- cots (forced). Especially in Season in May.—Salmon, prawns, lobsters, crabs. June. Meat.—Beef, veal, mutton, grass-lamb, buck- venison. Game and Pouliry.—Fowls, chickens, pullets, ducklings, green geese, turkey poults, pigeons, leverets, rabbits, plovers. 4ish,—Salmon, turbot, soles, mackerel, trout, crabs, pike, carp, eels, tench, lobsters, prawns, shrimps, mullet, haddocks, sturgeon, white- bait. Vegetables.—Cauliflowers, spinach, potatoes, beans, peas, artichokes, asparagus, carrots, parsnips, turnips, lettuces, cucumbers, onions, radishes, cresses, and all kinds of salads and garden herbs, sorrel, white beet, horse-radish, rhubarb, vegetable marrow. Fruits. — Gooseberries, currants, cherries, strawberries, apricots, peaches, various kinds of apples, pears, and nectarines, grapes, pine- apples, melons. For Pickling.—Garlic. For Drying.—Orange thyme, burnet, mint, tarragon. Especially in Seasonin June.—Salmon, salmon- trout, skate, prawns, whitebait, lobsters, crabs, grass-lamb, vegetable marrow. July. Meat.—Beef, mutton, grass-lamb, house- lamb, veal, venison. Game and Poultry.—Tame rabbits, wild rabbits,’ leverets, plovers, fowls, wheatears, wild chickens, pullets, pigeons, green geese, turkey poults, ducks, wood pigeons. Fish.—Hels, dace, dory, conger-eels, cod, carp, brill, barbel, crabs, crayfish, flounders, herrings, haddocks, mackerel, ling, lobsters, trout, thornback, mullet, plaice, pike, soles, salmon, tench, gurnet, perch, abe, Siawak whitings. Vegetables.— Kidney, Windsor, and scarlet beans, asparagus, artichokes, celery, endive, carrots, chervil, lettuces, mushrooms, potatoes, peas, salsify, spinach, sorrel, radishes, salad, turnips. APPENDIX. 1175 For Pickling.—French beans, red cabbage, cauliflowers, gherkins, cucumbers, onions, radish pods, nasturtiums, garlic. For Drying. — Salsify, knotted marjoram, summer and winter savory. Fruits—Apples, pears, oranges, pine-apples, cherries, currants, damsons, melons, gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries, plums, peaches, nec- tarines. Especially in Season in July.— Grass-lamb, crabs, dacé, mackerel, lobsters, herrings, prawns, salmon, plovers, chickens, green geese, wild chickens, damsons. August, Meat.—Beef, mutton, grass-lamb, veal, veni- son. Game and Poultry.—Grouse, pullets, fowls, pigeons, green geese, turkey poults, chickens, ducks, moor game, plovers, turkeys, wild ducks, pigeons, and rabbits; wheatears, rabbits, leverets. Fish.—Turbot, whitings,. eels, conger-eels, dabs, dace, salmon, tench, thornback, flounders, perch, haddocks, herrings, lobsters, crabs, pike, plaice, barbel, carp, oysters, prawns, gurnet, brill, cod, crayfish, mackerel, mullet, soles. Vegetables—French, kidney, Windsor, and scarlet beans, carrots, artichokes, onions, let- tuces, «cauliflowers, cucumbers, peas, salsify, radishes, salads generally, mushrooms, potatoes, shallots, turnips, spinach, leeks, endive. Fruits. — Apples, pears, peaches, plums, greengages, damsons, cherries, currants, rasp- berries, gooseberries, grapes, figs, melons, nec- tarines, filberts, mulberries. For Pickling —Red cabbage, walnuts, capsi- cums, chillies, tomatoes. For Drying.—Thyme, basil, sage. Espesially im Season im August.— Turbot, mackerel, pike, perch, prawns, dace, crabs, herrings, lobsters, grouse, greengages, filberts, figs. September. Meat.—Beef, veal, mutton, lamb, and venison. Game and Poultry.—Fowls, pullets, chickens, geese, wild ducks, partridges, grouse, pigeons, hares, rabbits, turkey poults. Fish.—Cod, haddocks, flounders, plaice, mul- lets, salmon, soles, lobsters, oysters, prawns, carp, tench, pike, perch, herrings, brill, turbot, crabs, eels, dace. . Vegetables.—Potatoes, cauliflowers, cabbages, turnips, peas, beans, artichokes, carrots, onions, mushrooms, lettuces, sorrel, celery, beet, scor- zonera, salsify, leeks, thyme, sage, pennyroyal, marjoram, and all sorts of salads and sweet herbs. » Fruits.— Apples, pears, plums, cherries, peaches, grapes, strawberries, melons, pines, walnuts, filberts, hazel-nuts, quincee, medlars, currants, damsons. figs. _ Especially im Season in September. — Pike, perch, lobsters, dace, crabs, mussels, hares, moor game, partridges, grouse, wild ducks. October. Meat.—Beef, veal, mutton, lamb, venison, pork. Game and Poultry.—Geese, turkeys, fowls, pullets, chickens, wild ducks, widgeons, teal, woodeocks, larks, grouse, pheasants, partridges, pigeons, snipes, hares, rabbits. Fish.—Oysters, lobsters, crabs, brill, gurnet, salmon-trout, dory, smelts, halibut, gudgeon, barbel, perch, carp, tench, herrings, eels, hake, pike, dace. Vegetables. — Turnips, potatoes, cabbages, cauliflowers, carrots, parsnips, beans, peas, onions, leeks, spinach, endive, celery, salsify, scorzonera, cardoons, beet, parsley, mushrooms, salads of all sorts, sweet herbs of all sorts, garlic, shallots. Fruits.—Pears, peaches, apples, plums, figs, medlars, grapes, walnuts, filberts, nuts, quinces, damsons, pines. Especially in Season in October.—Dace, pike, hake, dory, partridges, pheasants, widgeons, broccoli, truffles, grapes, medlars, tomatoes, hazel-nuts. November. Meat.—Beef, veal, mutton, pork, venison. Game and Poultry.—Hares, rabbits, phea- sants, partridges, geese, fowls, pullets, turkeys, wild ducks, teal, widgeons, woodcocks, snipes, larks, pigeons, grouse. Fish.—Oysters, lobsters, crabs, salmon-trout, dory, soles, smelts, gurnets, brill, halibut, barbel, carp, pike, tench, cockles, mussels, turbot, herrings, sprats, haddock, whiting, skate, cod, eels, dace. Vegetables.—Carrots, parsnips, turnips, po- tatoes, onions, leeks, shallots, Jerusalem arti- chokes, cabbages, broccoli, savoys, spinach, beet, cardoons, chervil, endive, lettuces, salsify, scorzonera, Scotch kale, celery, mushrooms, tarragon, parsley, all sorts of salads and sweet herbs. Frwits.—Apples, pears, quinces, grapes, wal- nuts, chestnuts, filberts, nuts, figs, grapes, raisins. Especially in Season in November. — Pike, tench, plaice, dory, sprats, grouse, geese, hares, snipes, woodcocks, teal, chestnuts. December. Meat.—Beef, veal, mutton, pork, doe-venison. Poultry and Game.—Hares, rabbits, phea- sants, grouse, partridges, woodcocks, snipe, fowls, chickens, -pullets, turkeys, geese, wild geese, ducks, wild ducks, teal, widgeons, larks, capons, pea-fowl. Fish.—Sturgeon, turbot, soles, skate, codfish, 1176 haddocks, smelts, dory, gurnet, herrings, sprats, ; oysters, mussels, cockles, lobsters, crabs, and shell-fish in general, perch, carp, eels, dace, ling. Vegetables.—Cabbages, broccoli, savoys, Brus- sels sprouts, Scotch kale, sea-kale, spinach, endive, cardoons, lettuces, skirret, salsify, scor- zonera, sorrel, potatoes, turnips, parsnips, car- rots, beetroot, Jerusalem artichokes, celery, peas, haricot beans, leeks, onions, shallots, mush- rooms, horse-radish, parsley, thyme, tarragon, CASSELL’S COOKERY. or pot herbs, which are chetly used tor stuffings, in soups, and for flavouring dishes, or for gar- nishing, are always in season, and can be procured at any time, either green or dried. Fruits.—Apples, pears, medlars, grapes, figs, chestnuts, almonds, filberts, nuts, walnuts, raisins, currants, prunes, and all sorts of pre- served and dried fruits, jams, marmalades, and fruit jellies. Especially in Season'in December.—Haddocks, tench, dace, cod, dory, ling, skate, turbot, chervil, mint, sage, small salads. Garden herbs, ! capons, pea-fowl, turkeys. C.—GLOSSARY OF TERMS Asric.—A savoury jelly. Assierrrs.—Small entrées not more than a plate will contain. ATELET.—A small silver skewer. Av Buzv.—A French term applied to fish boiled in white wine with flavourers, Av Gras.—Dressed with meat gravy. Av Jvs.—In the natural juice, or gravy. Av Narvrgr.—Plain, simple cookery. Bana,—Very light plum-cake, or sweet French yeast cake, Bary-Marre.—An open vessel which has a loose bottom for the reception of hot water. It is used to keep sauces nearly at the boiling. point without reduction or burning. Barpr.—A_ thin slice of bacon fat placed over any substance specially requiring the assistance of fat without larding. Barrer1zr pe Cursinz.—Complete set of yooking apparatus. BavarorsE 4 1’zav.—Tea sweetened with syrup of capillaire, and flavoured with a little orange-flower water. Bavaroise av Larr.—Made in the same way as the above, but with equal quantities of milk and tea. BicuameEL.—A rich white French sauce. Bricner, on Frirrer (see Fritter). Bisave.—A soup made of shell-fish. Branc.—White broth used to give a more delicate appearance to the flesh of fowl, lamb, &e. Buancu.—Placing anything on the fire in cold water until it boils, and after straining it off, plunging it into cold water for the purpose of rendering it white. Used to whiten poul- try, vegetables, &c. Branauerre.—a fricassée usually made of thin slices of white meat, with white sauce thickened with egg yolk. Bionve DE Veau.—Double veal broth used to enrich soups and sauces. USED IN COOKERY. Bovprn.—A_ delicate compound made of quenelle forcemeat. : Bovrii1.—Beef which has been boiled in making broth. Bovrti1zr.—A French dish resembling that called hasty pudding. Bovitton.—The common soup of France. Bovaver or Herps.—Parsley, thyme, and green onions tied together. Bovaver Garni.—The same thing as Fagot, which see. Bourcuienotze.—A ragotit of truffles. BraisE.—Meat cooked in a closely-covered stewpan to prevent evaporation, so that the meat retains not only its own juices, but those of any other articles, such as bacon, herbs, roots, and spice put with it. Braisizxre.—A saucepan with ledges to the lid, so that it will contain firing. Briper.—To truss fowls with a needle and thread. Briocue.—A sponge cake similar to Bath buns. Buisson.—A cluster or bush of small pastry piled on a dish: , ; CaLtipasu.—The glutinous portion of the turtle found in the upper shell. CaLuirer.—The glutinous meat of the turtle’s under shell. CanneLons.—Small rolls or collars of mince- meat, or of rice and pastry with fruit. CapmorapE. A hash of poultry. CasszroLe.— The form of rice to be filled with a fricassée of white meat or a purée of game; also a stewpan. Civer.—A dark, thickish stew of hare or venison. Compréenz.—Sweet French yeast cake, with fruit. Compére.—Fruits stewed in syrup. There are also compites of small birds. Conriturss.—Sweetmeats of sugars, fruits, syrups, and essences. APPENDIX. Consommé.—Strong, clear gravy obtained by stewing meat for a considerable length of time. Covris.—A rich, smooth gravy used for colouring, flavouring, and thickening certain soups and sauces, CroquetTErs.— A savoury mince of fish, meat, or fowl, made with a little sauce into various shapes, rolled in egg and bread-crumbs, and fried crisp. CovronnE, En.—To serve any prescribed articles on a dish in the form of a crown. CroustacLes.—Also knownas Dresden patties. They are composed of mince encased in paste, and moulded into various forms. Crovustaprs.—Fried forms of bread to serve minces or other meats upon. Crotton.—A sippet of bread fried, and used for garnish. CuistvE Masauée.—Highly seasoned or un- usually mixed dishes. Cursson.—Method of cooking meats, or the liquor in which they have been boiled. _ DarroLz.—A sweet paté baked in a mould. Davsr.—Meat or fowl stewed in sauce. DavsrirE.—An oval stewpan. DésztneR A LA Fourcusrre.— Breakfast with meats, wines, &c. DésossER.—To bone. Dorure.—Yolks of eggs well beaten for covering meat and other dishes. Enrréz.—A corner-dish for the first course. Entremet.— A side-dish for the second course. Escatores.—OCollops. Espacnoie.—A rich brown Spanish sauce. Facot.— A small bunch of parsley and thyme tied up with a bay-leaf. Farce.—Forcemeat. FevitLeTaGe.—Puff paste. Financrirg.—An expensive, highly flavoured, mixed ragoit. E FiamMBper.—To singe fowl or game after pick- ing. Fuan.—A French custard. Fiancs.—The side-dishes of large dinners. Foncer.—To put in the bottom of a saucepan thin slices of veal or bacon. Fonpvr.—A light and pleasant preparation of cheese. FricanpEavx may be made of any boned pieces of veal chiefly cut from the thick part of the fillet, and of not more than two or three pounds weight. Fricassfz.—Chickens, &c., cut in pieces in a white sauce, with truffles, mushrooms, &e., as accessories. Frirrzr.—Anything encased in a covering of batter or eggs, and fried. GArzav.—A pudding or baked cake. Gavrrres.—A light, spongy sort of biscuit. Gtazz.—Stock boiled down to the thickness of jelly, and used to improve the appearance of raised dishes. GoprvEavx.—Various varieties of forcemeat. 1177 Gras.—With, or of meat: the reverse of maigre. ‘Gratin.—Au' Gratin.—A term applied to certain dishes prepared with sauce and baked. Gratiner.—To cook like a grill. ~ Haricor.—So called from the French word for beans; with which the dish was originally made. Now understood as any thick stew, or ragoiit of mutton, beef, or veal, cut in pieces, and dressed with vegetables and roots. Hors-p’cuvres.—Small dishes of sardines, anchovies, and other relishes, Larpiniire.—Vegetables stewed down in their own sauce. Larpon.—The piece of bacon used in larding. Liaison.—The mixture of egg and cream used to thicken white soups, &c. Lir.—Thin slices in layers. Lutine.—A paste to fasten lids on pie-pans for preserving game. Mape.Ewes.—Small plum cakes. Maicre.—Without meat. Maninapr.—The liquor in which fish or meat is steeped. Masx.—To cover meat with any rich sauce, ragott, &c. Marerorz.—aA rich fish stew with wine. Mayonnaise.—Cold sauce, or salad dressing. Mazarines, or Tursans. — Ornamental entreés of forcemeat and fillets of poultry, game, or fish. Menvu.—The bill of fare. Merincve.—Light pastry made of sugar and the white of eggs beaten to “ snow.” Micnonnetrz Prrrer. — Coarsely ground peppercorns. Mrroron.—Small thin ‘slices of meat about as large as a crown piece made into ragoiits of various kinds, and dished up in a circular form. Movitter.—To add broth, water, or other liquid while the cooking is proceeding. Noveat.—Almond candy. Novitues.—Strips of paste made of eggs and flour. Pawapa.—Soaked bread used in the prepara- tion of French forcemeat. Paner.—To cover with bread-crumbs fried or baked food. PapitLoTe, En.—The pieces of paper greased - with oil and butter, and fastened round a cutlet, &e., by twisting it along the edge. PAré.—A small pie. Pavrretrzs.—Slices of meat rollec. Price pz Réstsrancr.—The principal joint of the dinner. Prrav.—A dish of meat and rice. Praver.—To lard with strips of bacon fat, &e. Porttz.—Stock for boiling turkeys, fowls, vegetables, instead of water, so as to render them less insipid. Porace.—Soup. PRnTANrERs.—Early spring vegetables. 1178 PRoFITEROLLES.—Light pastry creamed in- side. Purte.—The name given to a soup the in- gredients for thickening which have been passed through a sieve, then thinned with broth to the proper consistency. Meat and fish are cooked and pounded in a mortar, roots and vegetables are stewed till soft in order to prepare them for being thus converted to a smooth pulp. QueneEttEs.—Forcemeat of various kinds composed of fish or meat, with bread, yolk of egg, and some kind of fat, seasoned in different ways, formed with a spoon to an oval shape, then poached in stock and used either as gar- nish to entrées, or to be served separately. Racotr.—A rich sauce, with sweetbreads, mushrooms, truffles, &c., in it. RetEvEs.—The remove dishes. Removuiape.—Salad-dressing. Riractmento.—Meat dressed a second time. Rissotz.—A mince of fish or meat enclosed in paste, or formed into balls and other shapes. Used either as side-dishes or garnish. (See also Fricassées. ) Rér1.—Roast meat. Rovx.—A mixture of butter and flour used for thickening white scups and gravy. Satm1.—A hash of game cut up and dressed when only half roasted. Santon.—To dress with sauce in ae sauco- pan by keeping it in motion. CASSELL’S COOKERY. Sauce riauant.—A sharp sauce in which lemon and vinegar predominate as a flavour. Saurk-pan.—A thin-bottomed shallow pan for quick frying. Saurer.—To toss over the fire in a sauté-pan with a small quantity of fat only. Servierrz, A La.—Served in a napkin. Srerers,—Small pieces of bread cut into various shapes, either soaked in stock, toasted, or fried, to serve with meats as garnishing or borders. Sourrié.—A light pudding. Srocx.—The broth of which soups are made. Tamis on “Tammy.”—A strainer of fine woollen canvas, used for straining soups and sauces. TimpaLe.—A sort of pie made in a mould. Tourts.—aA tart baked in a shallow tin. Trirtz.—A second-course dish, made of sponge cake, macaroons, jams, &c., brandy or wine, and liqueurs. TrovusseR.—To truss a bird. Tursans (see Mazarines). Vaxner, To.—To make a sauce smooth by rapidly lifting it high in large spoonfuls, and allowing it to fall quickly again for some time. Vetourr.,—Rich sauce used to heighten the flavour of soups and made dishes. Vou-au-vent.—A light puff paste, cut round or oval, enclosing any delicate mincemeat. ' CASSELL, PETTER, GALPIN & CO., BELLE SAUVAGE WORKS, LONDON, B. THE LARGEST, CHEAPEST, AND BEST DICTIONARY OF COOKERY EVER PRODUCED. Cheap Edition. 1,280 pages, royal 8vo, cloth, 7s. 6d. . Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery. . ILLUSTRATED THROUGHOUT. Containing about Nine THousanp REcIpEs, “* * Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery’ is one of the most thorough and comprehensive works of the kind. To expatiate on its abundant contents would demand pages rather than paragraphs,” —The Times. “©Cassell’s Dictionary of Cookery’ contains about 9,000 recipes, and is preceded by u treatise on the ‘ Principles of the Culinary Art and Table Management,’ which will simply be found invaluable not only by cooks, as those most interested in such instructions, but by every mistress of a household, large or small.” —Morning Post. “* Tt seems to us that this book is absolutely what it claims to be—that is, the largest and most complete collection of the kind ever produced in this country ; an encyclopedia, in fact, of the culinary art in all its branches, and 4 volume which we trust and believe will be fully appreciated in its results, as well as in its teaching. It is a dictionary which should be in every household, and studied by every woman who recognises her true mission in the world.”—Christian World. Cassell, Petter, Galpin & Co., Ludgate Hill, London. UNIFORM WITH ‘“CASSELL’S DICTIONARY OF COOKERY.” Cheap Edition. 1,280 pages, royal 8vo, cloth, 7s. 6d. Cassell’s Domestic Dictionary. An Encyclopedia for the Household, furnishing information on several thousand subjects relating to the Wants of Everyday Life. With numerous Illustrations. “ A book which claims the favour of the public for substantial merits. _Its aim is to be useful, to contribute in some sort to the sum of human convenience, and to provide for a want hitherto not adequately supplied. There are scores of books on domestic economy, more or less good in their way, but none which professes to be so comprehensive, so varied, and so complete as the work now before us. Though called a ‘Domestic Dictionary,’ the name conveys a very inadequate idea, not only of its object, but of what it may be fairly said to have accomplished. Its second title, an ‘ Encyclopzedia for the Household,’ were there riot some obvious objections to its use, would give a better, though still imperfect, notion of what it was intended to be.” — Zhe Times, “¢ Asa manual of ready reference for all household purposes this work has no rival.”—Zhe Queen. Cassell, Petter, Galpin § Co., Ludgate Hill, London. NEW AND REVISED EDITION. Complete in Four Vols., cloth, 6s. each. Cassell’s Household Guide To Every Department of Practical Life. Being a Complete Encyclopedia of Domestic and Social Economy. With Illustrations on nearly every page, and COLOURED PLATES. ie : et household, and its possessors may dispense with many others on a smaller scale, eee title says, A COMPLETE ENCYCLOPADIA OF DOMESTIC AND SOCIAL Economy.” —TZhe Qucen.. zs : ene Re fe lopzedia of household lore, and no family library can be considered complete withou it. he oute ranied Gesple who are feeling their way as housekeepers, to those who live in the country, and to colonists, it will prove invaluable,” —Christian World, se) ted. ; i d the simplicity with whic fs st encyclopedia of knowledge of importance to everybody, an i the vatoeemees an treated must commend it to all classes.”—Lzverpool Daily Past. Cassell, Petter, Galpin § Co., Ludgate Hill, London, 1 1081, IN ONE VOLUME, 1,050 pages, royal 8vo, price 2Is. The Family Physician. A Manual of Domestic Medicine. By Eminent Physicians and Surgeons of the principal London Hospitals. ‘* The volume issued by Messrs. 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Crown 8vo, cloth gilt. ‘¢ A Year’s COOKERY, by Phillis Browne, with bills of fare for every day in the year, with directions for cooking, for marketing, and for making arrangements for the next day, makes up an invaluable present for young housekeepers.” — Atheneum. t “« The meals for every day in the year are laid down, and the clearest and most minute direc- tions are given for the preparation of each dish.”—Grapzc. ‘¢ A treasure in every house.” — Scotsman. ; ‘¢ A really unique Cookery Book.”—Liverpool Post. Cassell, Petter, Galpin & Co., Ludgate Hill, London. THIRD EDITION, price §s. What Girls Can Do. A Book for Mothers and Daughters. By Puittis Brownz, Author of “A Year's Cookery,” &c, ‘* Miss Browne gives many practical hints on all kinds of work, whether they be undertaken for duty, necessity, or pleasure. 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