\ ‘ A AY \ \ Cornell Mniversity Library | BOUGHT WITH THE INCOME FROM THE SAGE ENDOWMENT FUND THE GIFT OF Henry W. Sage 1891 ABLES Healer ae UE ee. LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK GUIDE AND DIRECTORY W. B. LLOYD Agricultural Editor Farm, FIELD AND FIRESIDE CHICAGO HOWARD & WILSON PUBLISHING CO. 1894 A. 2140 Copyright, 1894, BY W. B. LLOYD, PREFACE. When I was eleven years old my father gave me a small flock of hens. Since then, except while in the army, and part of the time while away from home attending school, I have been personally and financially interested in poultry. I have raised hens, ducks and turkeys; raised them in village and upon the farm, in small and in large flocks; raised them for the eggs they would produce, to sell as spring chickens, and to turn off in the fall. When in 1888 I became Agricultural Editor of the Farm, | FIELD AND FIRESIDE, the Poultry Department fell to my care, and all sorts of questions about poultry came, have been coming, and still come to me. In the following pages I try to answer these questions. W. B. LLOYD. GLEN ELLyn, ILL., January, 1894. INTRODUCTION. — - HE dictionary definition of poultry is, ‘‘Domestic fowls collectively; those birds which are ordinarily kept in a state of domestication for their flesh, eggs or feathers, as the domestic hen, turkeys, guinea-fowl, geese and ducks.” There are so many things connected with poultry, be- sides the birds themselves, that a book on the subject may naturally treat of their care, their houses and other matters pertaining to them. As this book is written to answer questions that come to my desk every day, the reader may consider each chapter or subject preceded bya question. The following are samples: “What are capons?’ ‘Please describe the Redcaps.”’ ‘Which is the best breed for layers?” ‘‘Please give descrip- tion of a cheap hen-house.”” ‘‘What will cure bumble-foot?” ‘Where can I get Leghorn eggs?” ‘Where is the Reliable Incubator made?” Is there any profit in raising chickens on a large scale?’ ‘‘What is the standard weight of a Tou- . louse gander?” ‘‘How should poultry be dressed for the Boston market?’’ In answering these questions I have given my own ex- perience, the experience of others who have been particularly successful in special lines of poultry raising, or the judg- ment of those who have been long in the business. In the list of breeders and of dealers in incubators and other supplies, only those are named whom I believe to be reliable and worthy of patronage. CONTENTS. DEFINITIONS NOMENCLATURE I. BreEeps or PouLtry II. Carr AND FEEDING oF POULTRY . TIT. Dressing AND SHIPPING PouLTRY IV. DIskasEs OF POULTRY . V. Turxeys, Ducks AND GEESE VI. CaApons AND CAPONIZING VII. IncusaTors AND BRooDERS VIII. CuickEens on THE FARM IX. Houses anp FIxTuREs xX. YARDS AND Coops XI. ‘BROILERS XII. Scraps Azsour Pouutry INDEX % 35. 21 Bek 4 DIRECTORY—Fottowina Pace 13 76 93 103 135 148 163 192 203 232 244 253 276 280 DEFINITIONS. {For the following Definitions and Nomenclature from the American Standard of Perfection we are indebted to the courtesy of the American Poultry Association. Ev- eryone who desires to know the standard of points in all recognized breeds of poultry ought to own a copy of the Standard of Perfection. It can be had postpaid for one dollar.) Barring.—Marks or stripes across the feather at right an- gles, or nearly so, to its length. Beard.—A bunch of feathers under the throat of some breeds of chickens, such as Houdans and Polish. Breed.—Any race of fowls having distinctive character- istics in common. Breed is a broader term than variety and may include several varieties, as the Plymouth Rock has Sin- gle-combed Barred, Pea-combed Barred and White as varieties of the breed. Brood.—The family of chicks belonging to a single mother. Broody.—Desiring to sit or incubate. Cape.—The feathers under and at the base of the hackle, shaped like a cape. This term is most frequently applied to the Light Brahma, whose cape is composed of black and white feathers. Carriage.—The attitude or ‘“‘style’”’ of a bird. Carunculated.—Covered with small fleshy protuberances, as on the head and neck of a turkey-cock. Chick.—A newly-hatched fowl. Chicken.—A term indefinitely applied to any age under one year old. Clutech.-A term applied both to the batch of eggs sat upon by a fowl, and to the brood of chickens hatched there- from. Cock.—A male fowl over one year old. Cockerel.—A male fowl under one year old. DEFINITIONS. q Comb.—The fleshy protuberance growing on the top of a fowl’s head. The four chief varieties of comb are single, rose, pea and léaf; all others being modifications of and properly classed with them. Condition.—The state of the fowl as regards health and beauty of plumage. Crest.—A tuft of feathers on the head,of the same signifi- cance as top-knot. Crop.—The receptacle in which a fowl’s food is stored be- fore passing into the gizzard for digestion. Cushion.—The mass of feathers over the rump of a hen, covering the tail—chiefly developed in Cochins. Dubbing.—Cutting off the comb, wattles and ear-lobes so as to leave the head smooth and clean. Duck-foot.—The carrying of the hinder toe forward. Ear-lobes.—The folds of bare skin hanging just below the ears—by many called deaf-ears. They vary in color, being red, white, blue and cream-colored. Face.—The bare skin around the eye. Flights.—The primary feathers of the wing used in flying, but tucked under the wings out of sight, when at rest. Fluff.—Soft,downy feathers about the thighs and covering the posterior part of the bird,chiefly developed in Asiatics. Furnished.—When a cockerel has obtained his full tail, comb, hackles, etc., he is said to be furnished. s Gills.—The same as wattles, which see. Hackle.—The neck plumage of both sexes. Hackles.—The peculiar, long, narrow feathers on the neck of fowls. Henny or Hen-feathered.—The plumage of a cock resem- bling that of a hen from the absence of hackles and sickle- feathers, and in plumage generally. Hock.—The joint between the thigh and shank. Keel.—The breast-bone, so called from its resemblance to the keel of a boat. Knock-kneed.—A term used to express an inward turning of the hocks by which they are brought together while the legs extend outward and are well spread at the feet. Leaf-comb.—The two-pronged, V-shaped comb, such as is 8 DEFINITIONS, seen in crested breeds, so called from the fancied resemblance to the open leaves of a book. Leg.—In a living fowl this is the scaly part usually de- nominated the shank; in a dressed fowl, it refers to the joint above.’ _ Leg-feathers.—Feathers growing upon the outer sides of the shanks, as in Asiatics. Mossy.—Confused or indistinct marking in the plumage. Nub-comb. —An_ irregular pea-comb, but lacking in the true triple character, the “ longitudinal depressions or , channels being grown up. It “ approaches in character to a ‘, rose-comb, but is properly N\ifelassed as a pea-comb, as it is produced only by pea-combed varieties. ‘ Pea-comb.—A triple comb, . resembling three small single PEA COMB: combs joined together at base and rear, lower and narrower at front and rear than center, and distinctly divided, the largest and highest in the middle, each part slightly and evenly serrated, as may be seen in the illustration above. Penciling. —Small markings or stripes over a feather> These may run straight across, when they are frequently called bars, or follow the outline of the feather, taking a erescentic form. Poult.—A young turkey. Primaries.—The flight-feathers of the wings, hidden when the wing is closed, being tucked under the visible wing, com- posed of the secondary feathers. Usually the primaries con- tain the deepest color belonging to the fowl, except the tail, and great importance is attached to their color by breeders, Profile.—A direct side view or illustration of a fowl. Pullet.—A female fowl] under one year old. Rooster.—A term for a cock or cockerel. Rose-comb.—A low, thick, solid comb, the upper surface DEFINITIONS, 9 be of which is usually corrugated or covered with small points. It usually terminates in a well-developed spike, which may turn upward as in the Hamburgs, remain nearly level as in the Rose-comb Leghorns, or turn downward as in the Wyan- dottes. In some varieties the spike is wholly wanting, or but slightly developed. : Sadd/le.—The posterior part of the back, reaching to the tail in a cock, and answering to the cushion in a hen—cush- ion, however, being restricted to a very considerable develop- ment, as in Cochins, while ‘‘saddle’’ may be applied to any breed. / Secondaries.—The quill-featbers of the wings, which are visible when the wing is folded. Se/f-cofor.—A uniform tint over the feather, or a uniform hue to the plumage, in the latter sense being applied to all solid-colored varieties, such as white, black and buff. Shaft.—The stem or quill part of a feather. Shank.—The lower and scaly joint of the leg. Sickles.—The long, curved feathers of a cock’s tail, prop- erly applied only to the top pair, but sometimes used for one or two pairs besides. : Single Comb.—An upright comb, varying in size and depth of serration, rising from the beak and generally extending back of the head for some distance, and consisting of a single thin, fleshy mass. Spangling.—The marking produced by a large spot or splash on each feather, differing from that of the ground color. ‘ Spur.—The sharp defensive weapon of the cock, growing from the inner side of the shank. Squirrel-tailed.—The tail projecting over the back in front of a perpendicular line drawn from the roots of the tail. Stag.—A term used for a young cock, chiefly employed by Game fanciers. Station.—An ideal standard for Games, embodied in style and symmetry. Strain.—A race of fowls that has been carefully bred by 10 DEFINITIONS. one breeder, or his successor, for a number of years, and has acquired an individual character of its own. Surface-cofor.—The color of the plumage or feather which lies upon the surface of a fowl when in a normal posi- tion and condition. Symmetry.—Perfection of proportion; harmony of all the parts of a fowl, taken as a whole, and must be typical of the variety it represents. Tail-coverts.—The soft, glossy, curved feathers at the sides of the lower part of the tail, usually of tne same color as the tail. i. Tail-feathers. —The straight and stiff feathers of the tail only; the top pair are sometimes slightly curved, but they are, generally,nearly if not quite straight and are contained inside the sickles and tail-coverts. Thighs.—The joints above the shanks, the same as the drum-sticks in dressed fowls. ~ Top-knot.—The same as crest. Trio.—A cock or cockerel and two hens or pullets. Under-color—The color of plumage not exposed when the fowl is in a normal condition aud position, and is seen when the surface has been lifted. It is manifested chiefly in the down seen about the roots of the feathers. Variety.—A term used to denominate fowls possessing com- mon characteristics, less wide in its application than breed, which see. Venetianed.—Lapping over like the Venetian blinds used in houses. This term is frequently applied to the lapping of the tail-feathers. Vulture-hock. —Stiff, projecting feathers at the hock- joint. The feathers must be both stiff and projecting to be thus truly called and condemned. See illustration on opposite page. Wattles. —The red, depending structures at each side of the base of the beak, chiefly developed in males. Web. —The web of a feather is the flat or plume por- tion; of the feet, the flat skin between the toes; of the wings, the triangular skin seen where the wings are ex- tended. - DEFINITIONS. 11 Wing-bar.—A line of dark color across the middle of the wings, caused by the color or marking of the feathers known as the lower wing-coverts. Wing-bay.—The triangular section of the wing, below the wing-bar, formed by the exposed portion of the secondaries VULTURE-HOCK. when the wing is folded. Used chiefly in reference to Game fowls. Wing-bow.—The upper or shoulder part of the wing. Wing-butts.—The ends of the primaries, also called wing. points. Wing-coverts.—The broad feathers covering the roots of the secondary quills: Wing-fronts.—The front edge of the wing at the shoulder. This section of the wings is sometimes erroneously called wing-butts, but the latter term should be applied only to the ends of the primaries to avoid confusion. 12 ee FPSpenagmeeee N Comb. Face, Wattles. . Ear-lobes. Hackle. Breast, Back. . Saddle. . Saddle-feathers. . Sickles. . Tail-coverts. NOMENCLATURE. OMENCLATURE. -Main Tail-feathers. 12. 13. 14, 15. 16. 1%. 18. 19. 20, 21. 22. Wing-bow. Wing-coverts, forming wing-bar Secondaries. Primaries or flight-feathers. Point of Breast Bone. Thighs. Hocks. Shanks or Legs. Spur. Toes or Claws. _Lloyd’s Modern Poultry Book. CHAPTER I. _THE BREEDS OF POULTRY. Including all varieties of Games and Bantams, there are several hundred breeds of fowls, and to give a brief descrip- tion of each would alone make a book of fair size, so we shall be content with giving a short account of some of the leading breeds, some of the newer ones and some characteristics or features of others. _ The poultry of this country deemed worthy of recognition by the American Poultry Association is divided into thirteen classes. Ten of these embrace the domestic fowls, while there is one class each for turkeys, ducks and geese. The names given the classes of domestic fowls are largely derived from the countries where the different breeds included in them had their origin. Included in these thirteen classes are thirty-three breeds of fowls, one. of turkeys, eight of ducks and six of geese. These breeds are subdivided into varieties until the number exceeds a hundred. The American class of fowls includes the American Dom- ‘inique, the Black, the Mottled and the White Java, the Jer- sey Blue, the Barred, the Pea-comb Barred, the Buff, and the White Plymouth Rocks, the Buff, the Golden, the Silver and the White Wyandottes. In the Asiatic class are the Light and the Dark Brahmas, the Black; the Buff, the Partridge and the White Cochins, and the Black Langshans. Bantams are classed as the Booted White, the Game, the Black, the White and the Partridge Cochin, the Malay, the Black and the White Japanese, the Buff Pekin (or Cochin), the White-crested White Polish, the Black Rose- combed, the White Rose-combed, the Golden Sebright, and the Silver Sebright. 14 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. The White,'Silver Gray, and Colored Dorkings are classed as English, and the Mottled Houdan, the Black Crevecceur, and the Black LaFleche as French. Among Games are the Black, the Black-breasted Red and the Brown-red, the Golden Duckwing, the Silver Duckwing, the Red Pyle, the White, and the Black Sumatra. | There are the same varieties of Game Bantams as Games. “In the Hamburg group are Black, Golden-Penciled, Golden-Spangled, Silver-Penciled, Silver-Spangled and White Hamburgs and the Redcaps. The Mediterranean class includes the Black, the Brown, the Buff, the Rose-Comb Brown, the Dominique, the White and the Rose-Comb White Leghorns, the Black and the White Minoreas, the Blue Andalusians and the Black Spanish. The various Polish varieties, including the Bearded Golden, the Bearded Silver, the Bearded White, the Buff Laced, the White-Crested Black, the Golden, the Silver and the White, are in a class by themselves. Besides the above groups there are the Black Russians, the White Silkies, the Frizzles, the Rumpless, and the White Sultans. Turkeys are distinguished as Black, Bronze, Buff, Narra- . gansett, Slate, and White. In ducks there are Pekin, Aylesbury and Crested that are white; Cayuga and East India, black; Muscovy, colored and white; Call, gray and white, and the Rouen that is colored. Geese are classed as African, Canada, Chinese, Egyptian, Embden, and Toulouse. The African, Canada and Tou- louse are gray, the Embden white, and the Egyptiar colored. There are both brown and white Chinese. UNRECOGNIZED BREEDS. New breeds, or new varieties of old breeds, are con- stantly coming forward claiming recognition. Among those of merit not yet recognized by the American Poultry Asso- ciation are the Anconas, Argonauts, Orpingtons, Sherwoods, Violettes and White Wonders. The Curassow, Guineas, ‘Pet Stock,’’ Pigeons, Pheasants and Swans are not recognized as poultry. BREEDS. 15 PLYMOUTH ROCKS. About forty-five years ago one Dr. Bennett thus ‘de- scribed a breed of fowls to which he gave the name Plymouth Rock: ‘I have given this name to a very extra breed of fowls, which I produced by crossing a Cochin- China cockerel with a hen that was herself a cross between the fawn-colored Dorking, the Great Malay, and the Wild Indian. Her weight is six pounds, seven ounces. The Plymouth Rock fowl, then, is in reality one-half Cochin- China, one-fourth fawn-colored Dorking, one-eighth Great. Malay and one-eighth Wild Indian. Their plumage is rich and variegated, the cocks usually red and speckled and the puliets darkish brown. They are very fine fleshed, and early fit for the table. Their legs are very large, and usually blue or green, but occasionally yellow or white, generally having five toes upon each foot; some have the legs feathered but this is not usual.”’ This ‘‘very extra breed’ of fowls that bred legs yellow, white, blue or green, feathered or clean. five-toed or four- toed, was too ‘‘extra’’ to last long in this matter-of-fact world, and it is doubtful if our modern Barred Plymouth Rock with its beautiful dark or light steel gray dress is in any way very closely related or connected to its namesake of ' forty-five years ago. The Plymouth Rock is our pet and we can no better state our appreciation of it than to use the words of a noted breeder of the breed. He says: The Barred Plymouth Rock has been termed America’s Idol. There is no other variety—the product of American skill in breeding—that we can put on the markets of the world with so much pride, and no other is received from our shores by foreign fanciers with such favor. The strong- est proof of the superiority of this breed is that it has suc- cessfully stood the booms of a score of new varieties—has met and vanquished each one —and still lives. Other breeas have their booms, but the Plymouth Rock keeps on in its steady course, winning greater and greater popularity with each succeeding year. It hasnever had a boom in its history. Its favor has been won by merit, and by merit it retains what 16 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. AKAN AN a Pout AY z nah PEN OF WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS—SEE PAGE 18, BREEDS. 17 ithaswon. Itisthe farmer’s delight, the poulterer’s ‘‘stand- by,’’ and the villager’s best friend, as it can be depended on to yield a generous supply of eggs and savory flesh. For meat, size, laying qualities, vigor, quick growing, and at- tractiveness combined there is no breed that will not suffer by comparison. This difficult union of qualities makes the Barred Plymouth Rocks continual favorites. For the market they are one of the best, being large, with plump bodies and full breast, with clean yellow legs and skin. For these rea- sons and many others they always command a high price. For table fowls they have but few equals, being sweet, juicy, fine-grained, tender and delicate. As layers they are con- sidered above the average. Many breeds stop laying during the winter, but the steady-going Plymouth Rocks bid defi- ance to the season, provided their house is a warm one and they are plentifully supplied with food convertible into eggs. They always mature early and are splendid foragers, fast growers, and compactly built. Theirheavy weight and short wing feathers prevent them from flying high, hence they are easily confined. The hens are the most patient of brooders and the best of mothers, and so determined are they to bring up a family that they often adopt a stray chicken. They are very hardy and healthy, thriving wellin any weather. In looks the Plymouth Rocks may not take the lead, Jbut just here the old adage applies, ‘‘“Handsome is that handsome does.’ Their plain, Quaker-like attire is a suitable every- day work dress, and even those farmers who have an inborn dislike to ‘fancy chickens” cannot but admit that the pure- bred Plymouth Rocks are far ahead of any cross for farm stock. In plumage they are a bluish gray, each feather distinctly penciled across, the bars of a darker color, and the more dis- inct the bar the better and more valuable the fowl. The plumage of the hen is much darker than that of the cock. They have straight, rather small size, single combs with five or six serrations, bright yellow beaks, red ear-lobes, and bright red wattles of medium size. The standard weight of the cock is nine and one-half pounds, cockerel eight, hen seven and one-half, and pullet six and one-half. ‘ \ 18 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS. Except in plumage, the White Plymouth Rock is the counterpart of the Barred variety, from which it is a sport. As general-purpose fowls, they rank with the best. They have no need to be ashamed ot their record as egg-producers, nor has their owner. They lay especially well in winter. Their eggs are large, of good color, and excellent quality. As dressed poultry they are unsurpassed. The absence of the dark pin-feathers, and the rich, yellow skin, covering a plump, meaty body, make an attractive market bird. They are desirable fowls for table use, the flesh being white, tender, and fine-flavored. They have very large frames, and are some- what slow in reaching maturity. The chicks are hardy, vig- orous, and very tenacious of life. Add to these qualities the fact that they are very handsome and pleasing in appearance, there seems little else to be desired. BUFF LEGHORNS. This variety of Leghorns is claiming the attention of fanciers and is gaining friends right along, though there is some opposition to them, as there is to every new breed or variety of established breeds. There are but few fanciers in England or America who are pushing these new beauties— for they are beauties. One of the largest breeders of them says: “In the Buff Leghorns we have usefulness and beauty combined; they are a grand table fowl and just the thing for the ‘broiler man;’ they are hardy and easily raised; mature very early; lay when four months old. They are wonderful layers, and are said to lay more eggs than any other variety of Leghorns by those who have tried all the varieties; lay a larger egg than the White or Brown; they bear confinement well, and are free from diseases toa great extent. Some find fault with them because they do not breed true. We claim they breed fully as trueas many of the older breeds, such as the Golden and Silver Wyandottes and others, and are improving very fast in this respect. “The Buff Leghorn is the same in comb, lobes, color of legs and shape as the White or Brown, only differing in color, BREEDS. 19 which is a rich, even buff throughout; they are some larger than the other varieties of Leghorns. Many new breeds have come up in the last ten years, their friends claiming them to be superior to the Leghorns as layers, but after trial they have been found wanting, and the Leghorns to-day stand pre- eminently above all other breeds as egg producers, and no fowls have as many friends as the Leghorns of the different varieties. ‘“‘We have the past season stocked several farms with ‘off’ colored females. The owners of these farms have here- tofore kept the Brown Leghorns, and have had the reputation of getting more eggs than any farmers of the neighborhood. They now report the Buff Leghorns being their best layers by odds. As chicks we have never seen their equal for hardi- ness. In quite a number of cases every egg hatched and every chick was raised, As fast growers they have noequals. We would advise all lovers of the Leghorn to give the Buff a trial.”’ WHITE-CRESTED BLACK POLISH. The White-Crested Black Polish is a very stylish and or- namental bird, the color of the crest, and that of the rest of the plumage, making a most striking and beautiful contrast, With the exception of the white crest, the plumage is of a rich, glossy, greenish black; ear-lobes white, and legs dark. The cock will average about five and one-half pounds in weight, and the hens about four and one-half pounds. They are of a very tame disposition, like all of the Polish varieties. As egg producers, they are very profitable, being non-sitters, and most perpetual layers, even in seasons when common hens quit. Of medium size, plump and neat when dressed, with excellent flesh, they excel as a small table and market bird. They may be considered a hardy fowl, standing our severe winters well, and, when common sense provisions are made for their comfort, coming out in good condition in the spring. The White-Crested Black Polish are recommended to those who wish botha useful and ornamental fowl for their park or lawn, as no variety, perhaps, is more admired for its attractive appearance and oddity. Among all the 20 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. varying changes in the poultry fancy, this old variety still manages to hold a place. It is sometimes a matter of surprise that it has not been neglected and become extinct in the rush after newer and larger varieties. But, although in the past sixty years they have been quite scarce,still some one has clung to them like an old love, and so kept them from being en- tirely blotted out. Among all the great variety of fancy poultry known to the fraternity, few, if any, can ante-date the Polish, and it is a strong argument in favor of in-breed- ing that they have existed so long, and retained all their pe- culiar characteristics, for in-breeding must have, of necessity, been considerably practiced to have kept them from dying out. Long before the Cochins, Brahmas, or Leghorns were known among us, the White-Crested Black Polish was bred, and, while it was known as a layer of large, white eggs, still it was its glossy black plumage and its large white crest that proved its greatest attraction. Its origin is, I believe, wrapped in obscurity, and, while it has always been known as the Poland or Polish fowl, itis said to be a misnomer, as ‘its origin can not be traced to that far-away country. THE ARGONAUT. H. S. Babcock, the originator of this breed, says: The Argonaut is a general-purpose fowl. Inits making, this ob- ject was kept steadily in view, and the attempt was made to unite great laying and great table qualities in a union as near perfect as possible. These qualities are antagonistic, and the gaining of one means, to some extent, the loss of the other; but, as our American breeds prove, it is possible to unite very good laying and very good table qualities in one fowl. The Argonaut is another proof of the possibility of making this very cesirable combination, The Argonaut is also an ornamental fowl, for it has a beautiful shape and beautiful color. The shape, while sug- gestive of that of the Game and the Plymouth Rock, is one that is peculiar to the breed, and combines solidity with gracefulness in more than an ordinary way. The color is buff—one of the richest and most practical colors that a fowl can possess, for its beauty is acknowledged by everyone, while its practical character is easily seen from BREEDS 21 the following considerations: It looks well in all situations, when fresh and new, or even when faded; it shows soiling as little as any color well can; it isthe color that best goes with yellow shanks and yellow skin, a most desirable thing for the American market; it isa color that dresses hand- somely, for the pin-feathers are very inconspicuous, there be- ing but one color superior to buff in this respect—white, but that has other objections, which puts buffin the lead. A color so beautiful and so useful as buff, upon a fowl of its solid yet graceful shape, gives it strong claims to be regarded as an ornamental fowl. ‘ The Argonaut is unique in one respect—it is the only buff pea-combed breed in the world; and it breeds very good pea-combs, too. For a practical fowl, I regard this as a valu- able characteristic, as it removes the comb as far as possible from the danger of frost. It may be said that, as originator of the Argonaut, Iam a prejudiced witness. I admit that Iam, but this very fact has kept me from praising the fowl according to what I think are its deserts, and this article, instead of being over- drawn, falls short of doing the breed justice. Of its many admirable qualities I have given but a faint hint, and upon its history I have been silent. If { did not regard it as a valuable and needed addition to the useful breeds in this country—valuable because it unites good laying with fine table qualities, and needed be- cause there are thousands of admirers of this color who can not otherwise obtain it upon a general-purpose fowl with clean, yellow legs—I certainly should not have spent the time and money in its production which I have, and I should not breed it, even if I had been foolish enough to produce it, unless I had a large faith in its permanent value to the poul- try stock of the country. WHITE COCHINS Are magnificent fowls, and worthy of a more general cultiva- tion among American farmers. Being pure white, they are much easier to breed true to color than a party-colored variety. The plumage is white; wattles and ear-lobes brilliant red; comb red and single; legs well feathered to outer toe. These 22 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. fowls should have a shaded run in summer, or the glare of the sun day after day will give their plumage a yellowish appear- ance. They are among the hardiest of fowls, feather and mature extra early, and are good winter layers. Cocks weigh eleven pounds, hens nine pounds. PARTRIDGE COCHINS. The plumage of the Partridge Cochin is very rich and elegant, resembling a partridge to some extent. Their gait is slow but the carriage quiet and dignified. The Cochin is not adapted to any particular climate or section of country but thrives equally in Canada or Florida, on the Atlantic or Pacific Coast. In the winter they are good layers. They are very large and are a profitable cross for increasing the size, hardiness and early maturing of barnyard fowls, for which purpose they may be profitably used by farmers. They may be confined by a low fence, three feet being ample height. Cochins will- thrive well in the smallest yards, and under such unfavorable circumstances as to preclude the successful rearing of other fancy breeds. BUFF COCHINS Are growing more popular every day, and deservedlyso. Too much cannot be said about the excellence of this variety. There is no breed that is more thoroughbred or more admired by the fraternity in general. Considering them from a stand- point of utility, they fill the bill as well as any of the Asiatics. The secret of their great popularity is because of their superi- ority. The American Buff Cochin Club is doing much to advance them. and the secretary of the club says he will have them at the head of the list beforeiong. Uniting great size, hardiness, and much more than average egg production in the same fowl, Buff Cochins have a strong claim upon that class of people that desire to make money out of a few hens; while their majestic form and exquisite color make them much admired by breeders of thoroughbred fowls. The plumage is a clear, beautiful shade throughout, the neck, saddle, and tail-covers being of a darker and richer shade in the cock. The great fault which beset this breed originally (the BREEDS. 23 constant appearance of dark feathers) has been overcome at last; by careful mating and breeding they have reached that state of perfection where the fancier has comparatively little trouble in breeding them to feather. Plentifully covered with long, soft feathers, Buff Cochins look larger than they really are. The abundant covering of downlike feathers renders them less sensitive to extreme changes during the winter months, hence they are reliable egg producers during cold weather. The Buff Cochin is a very domestic fowl, does not fly high nor wander far, isa persistent and faithful sit- ter, isa mother that does not weary of materna! duties, and is faithful to her charge. BLACK HAMBURGS. Ali Hamburgs possess the same general characteristics; stylish and active in carriage, slender, rather short, blue or slaty-blue legs, with deep red rose-combs and close-fitting, pure white ear-lobes. They require free range, and are then easily kept, as they are excellent foragers. They will lay upward of 200 eggs in a year. Their eggs are not so large as those of the Leghorns; yet, as long as eggs are sold by the dozen, this makes little material difference in supply- ing the market. Mr.A. Beldon says of their early maturity, he has found that pullets of the penciled varieties lay at five months; the spangled not quite so early. The Blacksare the largest of the Hamburgs and lay the largest eggs. They are also considered the most hardy. A great fault with many Black Hamburgs is a tendency to white on the face. This disqualifies pullets and cockerels. The face must be one rich, deep red, like the wattles, con- trasting strikingly with the pure white ear-lobes. GOLDEN POLISH. There are two varieties of the Golden Polish—the bearded and the unbearded—the former being more attractive, as the beard is a fitting counterpart to the beautiful crest of the head. Within the last few years the bearded variety has grown so in popularity that it will, in course of time, entirely supplant the non-bearded. The general color of their plumage is a rich golden bay, each feather marked with black, 24 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. in the form of a spangie or lacing, the marking increasing in size with the size of the feather. Like all spangled or pen- ciled fowls, the marking of this variety is very beautiful. Their characteristics are like all other Polish. They are quite docile in dispositson, and fond of being petted. The hens = GOLDEN POLISH COCK—SEE PAGE 23. are of medium size, good layers, and non-sitters. Their eggs are of pure white color and ordinary size. THE GUINEA-FOWL. Although this bird is not recognized among fanciers as poultry, there are many who consider it worthy a place on the farm. The following descriptive sketch, written by W. Willis Harris, appeared in a recent number of the Canadian Poultry Review: There are several varieties of this bird, which is a native of Africa. The two varieties most generally bred under domestication are the speckled or pearl, and the white, the speckled being the much more common variety of the two. The unpopularity of the Guinea-fowl is chiefly due to its wandering habits, the difficulty of finding its eggs, which are laid in very secluded places, and the unpleasant BREEDs. 25 noise it gives vent to, very much resembling the grating of a eartwheel; but the latter has its advantages, making a flock as valuable at night as a first-class watch-dog. As game it has proved a failure, for when turned down in the coverts it drives away the pheasants, and will not rise to the gun, but willrun before the dogs at a marvelously rapid speed. In the poultry-yard it is very spiteful (espe- cially the cock) to young chicks, and is, generally speaking, of a very pugnacious disposition. But in spite of these dis- PAIR OF WHITE COCHINS—SEE PAGE 21. advantages, as a semi-domesticated bird, it is very profitable upon a farm or anywhere where it can have free range and plenty of liberty, clearing the ground of myriads of insect life, and being a small feeder in comparison with ordinary poultry. From March to October the female lays a great number of eggs of a speckled cream-color, with hard shells, averaging during the season 150. Their nests are very secluded, and are generally made in the center of a thick hedge, in the midst of shrubbery, or in the depth of a copse. As they are very cunning in the selection of their nesting places, their eggs are somewhat difficult to find, but can best be discovered by watching any suspected spot, when the cock will be seen keep- ing guard whilst his mate is laying. The nest discovered, 26 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. the eggs should be removed daily, two or three being left, or dummies substituted, otherwise the hen will desert the nest and make another in a still more secluded place. Several hens deposit their eggs in one nest, and it is therefore no uncommon thing to find twenty to fifty in a batch. It is advisable to start keeping Guinea-fowls by either purchasing eggs and hatching them under domestic hens, or PAIR OF PARTRIDGE COCHINS—SEE PAGE 22. procuring them when young, when they are more likely to localize themselves to their owner’s wish than if purchased as older birds. If adult birds be purchased, they willrequire boxing up for three weeks or a month and feeding carefully to tame them, otherwise they are liable to wander off at their own sweet will, possibly never to return. It is seldom the eggs are infertile, and they should be set in rather a damp nest, the eggs requiring more moisture than BREEDS 2" those of the common fowl. It is better to set clutches of fif- teen to eighteen eggs under ordinary hens (half-breed Game preferred), as the Guinea-hen seldom sits until the latter end of August, which is too late in the season for the young birds BUFF COCHIN—SEE PAGE 22. to thrive; as they have not the stamina to withstand the early frost and autumnal wet. The period of incubation is twenty-six to twenty-eight days, and if the eggs be fresh the ehicks hatch out strong, and are of a brown color, striped more than spotted, with bright red legs. For the ‘first three or four weeks it is absolutely neces- sary to fix a wire run in front of the coop in which the hen and her chicks are penned, until the young ones have become 28 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. -used to the call of the mother, or they will quickly ram- ble away, which they do far from slowly and the major portion of the brood will be lost. They are somewhat delicate when young, but not so difficult to rear as turkeys or pheasants, requiring to be similarly treated and fed. The grass on which they are fed should be kept closely - mown; insects and animal food or its substitute ‘‘crissel,”’ or bullocks’ liver chopped fine, is absolutely essential to successfully rearing the Guinea-fowl. The chicks should be fed for the first few weeks regularly five or six times a day; biscuit meal makes an excellent staple food, varied with oat- meal and small corn at night. At five or six weeks old they commence to put on their adult plumage, and may be al- lowed full liberty with the hen. At the age of three months they develop the wattles and horny crests on the top of their heads. The sexes are somewhat difficult to distinguish but the male is the larger of the two, and the wattles and horn of the cock are larger than those of the hen. It is only the female that cries ‘‘come back, come back;’’? the cocks when running after the hens arch their backs, and run ina mincing way as if on tiptoe. The Guinea-fowl in a wild state is monogamous; but un- der domestication some ‘state they have run one cock with three or four hens successfully, but I think it would be safer to run in pairs. They are gregarious, and a flock reared to- gether will always continue to run in company and roost in the sametree. It is seldom they can be induced to roost in ordinary poultry-houses or to lay in nests provided for them, preferring the semi-wild state, wandering with sweet liberty through copse and meadow; and though natives of a hot, arid climate, braving the roughest of weather, and not being poisoned with the close atmosphere of artificial housing, they are, when mature, practically free from disease. ‘The adult birds should be fed similarly to ordinary poul- try, ‘but require insect or animal food, which, if at liberty, they will find for themselves. It is also advisable tofeed at regu- lar hours, particularly at night-time, so as to induce them to remain at home. They come in season for the table from Christmas to March; the poulterers have little difficulty in BREEDS. 29 disposing of them to their customers. Like game, they do not require fattening, but, similar to pheasants, they should be well hung previously to cooking. There are but few shows in the country that provide classes for Guinea-fowls; they are generally exhibited in pairs. To prepare them for exhibition, they simply require to be penned for a fortnight or three weeks, to tame them, and their heads and legs washed, and rubbed over with a tiny piece of vaseline. ' Mr. Willis throws out the following as asuggested stand- ard in judging the fe SPECKLED OR PEARL VARIETY. Head—Broad, surmounted with ahorny crest; wattles, a thick red, the freer from white patches the better. : Beak—Strong, curved; well-set in head; in color, pinkish horn. Eyes—Bright, clear; color, steel gray. Face—White, dotted with fine hairs. Neck—Long, symmetrical curve; color, violet, purple, brown. Back—Curving, rising from the neek to the center, and then descending in a graceful.curve to the tail. Breast—Broad and full. Body—Deep through the center, with long keel. Fluff—Short. Wings—Close, tight-fitting, with few or no white feath- ers in flights. Tail—Short. Thighs —Short. Shanks and Toes—Pink and black, the more evenly marked the better. Nails, light horn color. Color of Plumage—Black, evenly marked with. small white dots; the more evenly the better. Disqualifications— Deformities of any kind. Any white or black: feathers, except in the wing, the primaries of which may be white. SCALE OF POINTS. Symmetry.........++00- SIAM RERLNE REAPS OATES Veseeeee lO 30 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. SiZGi viss kad satediaet danas Yew e eae ota s Gee wee eae ox yes 25 CONGIMOD ei cia Macosn i b4 Seehws Sea anes SA see a ee EES 10 Head and Wattles... . ccc cece cece cree cece teen cnee vees eens LO ColOnigcvisws ued cies aie etndsasel an eiaatnris aan tase ened Color Of Win gS siissc tid cree gia ee yan tow Meee day Vauiaews there 10 Legsand Toes vices ise cies oe vee stenowainy ences ovate Siete eae Siero 10 100 THE WHITE GUINEA except in plumage, which is white throughout, is identical in appearance with the pearl variety. We have never raised any white ones, but one who has, says ‘‘they are fine layers of very rich flavored eggs. As layers they almost rival the Leg- horns. The young are hardy, and easily raised if given the required attention. “The flesh of the White Guinea, unlike that of the speckled variety, is very tender and toothsome. As a table fowl they come nearer the wild game birds than any of our domestic fowls. Their scarlet-trimmed heads and beautiful snow- white plumage attract many admirers. White Guineas grow rapidly, and for broilers excel young chickens, and farmers who want to raise something pretty as well as tooth- some will do well to raise a flock of these pretty little birds.” LANGSHANS. The Langshans are natives of Northern China, and were first sent from the Province of Langshan, by an employe of the British Government, to England. Some years ago they were brought to America, and fanciers generally consider them the best poultry acquisition we have from China. Langshans have straight red combs, somewhat larger than those of the Cochins. Their breast is full, broad and round, and carried well forward, being well meated, similar to the Dorkings. Their body is round and deep like the Brahmas. The universal color of the plumage is a rich metallic black. The tail is long, full-feathered, and of the same color as the body. The color of their legs is blue- black, with a purplish tint between the toes. The good qualities claimed for the Langshans are: They: BREEDS. 31 are hardy, withstanding readily even severest weather. They attain maturity quite as early as any of the larger breeds. They lay large, rich eggs allthe year round, and are not inveterate sitters. Being of large size, with white flesh and skin, they make an excellent table fowl, more especially so on account of the delicacy of the flavor which the flesh possesses. Standard weight of cocks, nine anda half pounds; PAIR LANGSHANS. hens, seven pounds. They seem to combine all the character- istics that go to make up a practically useful fowl. The accompanying faithful illustration will give a more ‘accurate idea of them than an extended description. It will be observed that, apparently, they are more like the Black Cochin than any other breed with which we are familiar, but in reality they differ very essentially from them. BLACK SUMATRAS. Sumatras were introduced into the United States from the Island of Sumatra, and have been bred in limited num- bers, The accompanying illustration shows their peculiar 32 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. characteristics, small heads, pea-combs, pheasant-like tails, broad and sweeping low to the ground in full-plumed cocks. Their plumage is solid black, glossy and beautiful. They are stout, active, rather small birds. They are good layers and juicy table poultry. In the latter respect they resemble wild i . PAIR BLACK SUMATRAS. game more than common poultry. Although rather gamey in appearance they are not ranked as fighters. When first hatched the chicks are nearly white and retain this color till . the first moult. After this, nearly all will assume the solid black with green luster. In some, occasionally white feathers and in others a few red are seen. These are faults and should be guarded against. Their legs are clean, strong and of a dark leaden color. HOUDANS. The Houdan is to France what the Plymouth Rock is to America. They derive their name from the little town of BREEDS. 33 Houdan, France. It is not positively known how they orig- inated. Some believe they area cross of the Black Polish and the Dorking. They have the fifth toe of the Dorking and a conformation of body between the two breeds. Their plumage is made up entirely of black and white. They have a large crest and beard which gives them a very pretty appearance. Their legs are medium length, unfeathered, pinkish white, mottled or shaded with black or lead color. PAIR HOUDANS. The fifth toe should be detached from the others and curve upwards. They are a splendid table fowl, having fine, close- grained meat in great plenty, and are considered one of the best breeds for broilers.. They are excellent egg producers, laying the largest egg of the non-sitting breeds. They bear confinement well, but when given their liberty forage well and will pick up their living equal toturkeys. The standard weight of the cock is seven pounds, cockerel a pound less, with the hen weighing the same and the pullet five pounds. ‘ CREVEC@URS. The head of the Crevecceurs is quite small, and if stand- ard bred they have a crest and beard. The crest should be jet black, composed of feathers of the texture of the hackle 34 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. —large, round, close, well fitted on the crown—generally ‘falling backward and rather lower on the sides of the head than over the beak; the comb is red, V-shaped (from which fact the name Crevecceur—literally heart-break—is derived), and of medium size; the eyes large and bright; the neck of medium length, and neatly carried a little over the back; breast deep and full, and carried well forward; back wide and straight; tail full and carried generally erect; thighs 2 aL ET Sty PAIR CREVECGURS. short; legs slate color or black, and free from feathers. They have a watchful, upright and vivacious carriage, and are a brilliant black. They rarely fly, always walk slowly, do not care to ramble. Are good layers, beginning a little later than the Brahmas and Cochins; but their eggs are very large. Asa rule they do not sit. They are a first-class table bird. A full grown cock weighs from eight to nine pounds, and a hen from seven to eight. ‘Their beautiful black plumage, large crests, and two- horned combs make them conspicuous. Although much thought of in France, their native land, where they rank BREEDS. 35 next to the Houdan for utility, they have not proved hardy in this country. INDIAN GAME. The Indian Game is rapidly taking first rank as a table fowl, the flesh being but little inferior to that of the turkey in flavor. It grows quickly and has a very large breast, thus making the best of broilers. Its table qualities are wonder- ful. The feathers are greenish-black with brown-crimson shafts; the legs are stout and of a yellow color. The bird is powerfully built and has a very broad body. It weighs as much as the Brahma, though it does not appear nearly s0_ large. The hens are among the best of mothers, and are as good Jayers as the Plymouth Rocks. LA FLECHE. This breed, originating in France, has not as yet been extensively introduced in this country, it being the general belief that it is constitutionally too weak to bear the severe winters of the Northern States, though this may be due in large measure to in-breeding. Their ancestry is shrouded in mystery, but they are probably closely related to the Spanish, and, like them, do best in the mildest country. The plumage is glossy black througbout, the shanks leaden black, the ear-lobes pure white like those of the Black Spanish. The comb is bright red and shaped like a pair of horns, pointing almost straight upward, with two small knobs in front of each horn. They are non-sitters and lay large white eggs of a rich flavor. The French consider their flesh very fine eating. The standard weight of the cock is eight and one-half pounds, and of the en seven and one-half. BLUE ANDALUSIANS. This breed is claimed to have originated in the Province of Andalusia, Spain, from whence it takesits name. It is an older variety than the Minorca and resembles it in many respects. It isa hardy fowl, easily acclimated, and more do- eile than any of the other non-sitting breeds. The plumage is blue and black, the comb single and rather large, and in the hen falls to one side, partly conceal- ing the eye. It is a fair table bird, but is especially esteemed 36 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. for.its laying qualities, being considered superior to the Leghorns by the English; it also surpasses that breed in size. SHERWOODS. The Sherwoods were first brought to the notice of the general public in 1890, by W. Atlee Burpee & Co. They area -eross of White Georgia Games and Light Brahmas. They derive from their Brahma parentage a heavy body but are shorter in leg; from the,Game parentage, fuller breasts. They TYPICAL GUINEA FOWL—SEE PAGE 29. Reproduced from Poultry World. are very stylish birds and very majestic in carriage, with close, compact bodies. Their yellow bills, beautiful erect combs of medium size, bright red ear-lobes, white plumage, ‘and yellow legs, slightly feathered to the outside toe, make them an attractive sighton the lawn: Their feathers are not fluffy, but are close, like the Indian Games. They endure the cold weather better than the Asiatics or other fowls of equal size, It is claimed the young chicks are hardier than any other breed in existence; damp weather seems to have little or no effecton them. They grow rapidly, mature early, and are ready for broilers at ten weeks. In fact, the chicks just out of the shell are almost double the weight of a Brahma at the same age. They are very careful and attentive mothers, yet gentle and tractable to handle. They lay equally as well BREEDs. 3° as the Plymouth Rock and the eggs are of a very large size, white in color, fine flavor, and good quality. The birds are of good size, cocks weighing from ten to twelve pounds; hens eight to nine pounds. For table use they are unexcelled, the flesh being tender and delicious, partaking somewhat of the game flavor. They are considered one of the best general-pur- pose fowls. WHITE WONDERS. This breed, recently introduced into New England, seems to have been originally a cross between the White Wyandotte and Light Brahma. They closely resemble the former, but are larger and have feathered legs. They are superb layers, and highly esteemed as market fowls, having brought three cents above the highest price, as broilers, on the Boston mar- ket. SiLVER-GRAY DORKINGS. The males have black breasts, silver-white hackles and saddles, black tail. wing bows silvery white, wing coverts black, and black bodies. The females are fully as handsome. They have silver gray heads; hackles, silver-gray; breast, bright salmon; back gray. They have large square-shaped bodies, short legs, with five distinct toes on each foot. The comb is large and single, and the shanks are white or flesh- colored. The Dorking is the only distinctive English breed, and is prized by them for its large, tender, juicy breast meat. The White Dorking differs from the Silver-gray in having a rose comb and pure white plumage throughout. The Colored variety has either a rose or single comb, and the plumage of the cock is black and white on neck and back, with black breast, body and tail; that of the hen is black on neck with gray edging, dark gray marked with black on the back, dark salmon marked with black on breast, body dark brown or black mixed with gray. WHITE LEGHORNS. This is the original of the Leghorn family, all others having been derived from it by crossing. Its pure white plumage and vellow legs make it a handsome bird. The comb of the cock is large and erect, that of the hen falls to one side. It is a non-sitter and is one of the best layers, the eggs 38 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. PAIR WHITE LEGHORNS. PaIR BROWN LEGHORNS. BREEDS. 39 being as large as those of some of the heavy breeds. The Leg- horn is small but feathers quickly, making it jvaluable to the ‘*broiler-men”’ for crossing with the Asiatics. The flesh is of a fine flavor, making a good fowl forfamily use. The pullets sometimes begin to lay when only four monthsold. There is a rose-combed variety which differs only in having the comb like that of the Hamburgs. Black Leghorns in most points are similar to the single- eomb White. Their shanks and toes are yellow or yellowish black and their plumage is a rich glossy black. But for color of plumage the Dominique Leghorn in look: is identical with the single-ccomb White. The plumage throughout is a grayish white, each feather regularly crossed with parailel bars of blue-black, giving in effect a bluish tinge. 40 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. BROWN LEGHORNS. This variety came from the White by a cross with the Black Red Game. They greatly resemble the former except in color, though they do not lay as large an egg. The plum- age of the cock is reddish bay on head, dark red on back and PAIR BLACK MINORCAS. black on breast, with large,well curved tail of metallic black. The head and back of the hen are dark brown and breast salmon brown. There is also a rose-combed variety. SILVER-SPANGLED HAMBURGS. This is a very attractive breed, the plumage being white with large black{spangles; its large, bright rose-comb adds BREEDS. 41 much to its appearance. It is not a valuable market bird, on account of its small size, but in number of eggs it is hard to beat. It is a small eater and can be kept at little expense. BLACK MINORCAS. When the Black Minorca first made its appearance in America it was known as the Red-Faced Black Spanish. Black Minorcas are one of the handsomest breeds in the Spanish class. They are very stylish birds, majestic in carriage, with close, compact bodies, and low, well-set legs. The plumage is a beautiful, glossy black, shaded with the purple hue pe- culiar to some black birds. The face is coral red, with white ear-lobes. The legs are dark slate, or nearly black. They are exceptionally good layers, some claim equaling the Leg- horns, and their eggs are much larger. A well-known Eng!ish writer places the Minoreas first among all fowls as lavers, and says:, ‘‘They will lay from 200 to 225 eggs ayear.’’ One breeder of this variety has a record of 247 eggs from one Mi- norea hen in 365 days. The chicks mature rapidly, and are fit for broilers at from ten to twelve weeks. They are non- sitters, although they have been known to sit and rear their young. This, however, can be rarely depended upon. They possess a lively disposition, are very hardy, good foragers, and small eaters. Their useful and profitable qualities, com- bined with their handsome appearance, make them very pop- ular. The mature cock should weigh eight pounds and the hen six and one-half. White Minorcas, except in plumage, which is pure White, are exact counterparts of the Black variety. THE LIGHT BRAHMA. This is the largest of all the breeds, the standard weight of the cock being twelve pounds, and of the hen nine and a half. The hens are good mothers and lay large eggs. Like most of the other Asiatic breeds, they are quiet, docile and easily confined. They are generally kept for their flesh, as it is firm, juicy, of good flavor and great quantity, but they lack plumpness and have too much bone for broilers. The color is white with black hackles and tails. They have a small pea-comb and heavily feathered legs. LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. PAIR LIGHT BRAHMAS, PAIR DARK BRAHMAS, BREEDS. cd DARK BRAHMAS. These birds closely resemble the Light Brahmas except in color. They also weigh a little less. The cock has white hackles and saddles, each feather be- ing streaked with black, the plumage on the breast is black, on the back and wings whitish. The general plumage of the hen is blaék with steel-gray pencilings. VIOLETTES. Little is known of this new and beautiful variety, and but few have seen them. They have the markings of the Golden Wyandotte, only instead of black they are a rich violet blue; this makes them very beautiful and attractive. All who have seen them pronounce them the prettiest thing out. The contrast between the blue and the gold makes them quite a novelty. In make-up, they have rose combs, with white or yellowish white ear-lobes, bright yellow legs, and in size, between the Wyandotte and the Leghorn, making them about a pound lighter than the Wyandotte. One of the originators of the breed says ‘‘there are two distinct strains, all being bred to the same ideal and helping each other, and in course of a year or two we will show the public what can be done by skill and careful breed- ing. We do not claim for them that they are better than other American varieties, but one thing sure, they will lay. more eggs than the Wyandottes and still be a sitting breed. We are not claiming the earth, but when put on the market they will stand for themselves.” BLACK JAVAS. The name might lead one to think that this breed came from the island bearing its name; on the contrary it was or- iginated in Missouri about twenty years ago. It is hardier than the Plymouth Rock, and is equal to it in size and table qualities. The plumage is glossy black, the comb rather small and single, the legs black, the tail rather long and eurved straight up and then back. Its yellow skin and plump body brings a ready sale on the ‘‘dressed poultry’ market. 44 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. There are also White and Mottled (black and white) vari- eties, whose chief characteristics are the same as the Blacks. WYANDOTTES. Though one of the newest, this is one of the most popu- lar of the American breeds. They are a hardy fowl, are one of the best layers of the sitting breeds and have plump yellow bodies and their flesh is of fine flavor. Their plumage’ and shape also make them favorites. Infact, taking all the de- sirable qualities into consideration, the Wyandotte is very properly called a ‘‘general-purpose fowl.’’ Some go as far as to call it ‘‘the general-purpose fowl.”’ There are four varieties recognized by the American Poultry Association, the Silver, the Golden, the White, and the Buff; the Black,though not recognized, is becoming quite popular, and the Colimbian, “latest born,” is now claiming attention. The Silver was the original variety; early in the seventies, several leading breeders produced, from different crosses, breeds which closely resembled one another. ‘These became known ‘as American Sebrights; but before they were admitted to the ‘‘Standard,’’ the cross between the Dark Brahma and the Silver Spangled Hamburg took the precedent and the name was changed to Wyandottes. About this time a gentleman in Wisconsin perfected a cross between the original Wyandotte (now known as the Silver) and a ‘‘composite” fowl of his own breeding; this cross was called the Golden. It differs from the Silver only in having the body plumage reddish and golden bay instead of silvery white, the wings and tails of both varieties are black and the body feathers are striped through center with same color. The White and the Black varieties are “sports” of the Silver, and are respectively solid white and black throughout. The Buff is made up of many breeds and is claimed to have less Wyandotte characteristics than the others. It is Of recent introduction tothe public, not being known to one of the leading poultry journals of America two years ago. The Columbian Wyandotte was first advertised as the Bra Wyandotte, a name probably intended to be descriptive of its appearance, for we are informed that it has the shape of BREEDS. 45 the Wyandotte and the plumage ofthe Light Brahma. ‘Its originator, Mr. B. M. Briggs, assures us that it has not adrop of Brahma blood and that the variety was suggested by an accidental cross. What the cross was,he leaves us to guess as best we may; he volunteers no information upon the subject. With the White Wyandotte in the field and filling thedemand for a white fowl of the size and the characteristics of the SILVER WYANDOTTES. Wyandotte, the chances of success for the Columbian seem to be heavily handicapped; should it succeed in spite of this fact, it will prove that the Light Brahma marking is one that suits the people and helps to account for the continued popularity of the favorite Asiatic fowl.”’ All the Wyandottes have rose combs and yellow legs. The sliape much resembles that of the Dark Brahma but is more trim in appearance owing to its Hamburg blood, The mature cock should weigh at least eight and one-half pounds and the hen six and one-half pounds. THE NAKED-NECKED FOWL. This breed originated in Transylvania. The neck is bare nearly down to the breast, and is of a red color and 46 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. smooth. There is a spot heavily feathered just on top of the crop. The chicks grow rapidly and feather more quick- lythan Hamburgs. They are good table fowls and small eat- ers; the hens lay good-sized dark eggs,and plenty of them. The cock weighs about seven pounds, and the hen five. The accom- NAKED-NECKED FOWL. panying illustration from Poultry (England) is a very life- like répresentation—an accurate portrait of one shownat a show in London. In Germany, where this bird receives the most attention, and where the best ones are kept, the plu- mage is black. The Naked-Necked Fowls, while those who have kept them have claimed for them many profitable qual- ities, have been mainly looked upon as curiosities, and have been shown of several types and different styles of comibs, elean and feathered legs, and of various colors. BREEDS. 47 BANTAMS are really nothing but dwarfs produced from the larger breeds, principally by crossing, late hatching and scant feed- ing. If hatched early and fed heavily their size will be increased. Besides those recognized by American fanciers there are several varieties in process of development, and it is but a question of time, perseverance and skillful breeding when there will be a Bantam or dwarf of every standard breed and variety. It is usually not the farmer with hundreds of acres of ground that keeps Bantams; but the city resident, with his little narrow back yard, may keep them with much pleasure. A few feet of ground and a dry, well ventilated dry-goods box for a coop, will do fora few of these fowls. They are both a useful and a fancy fowl. Prettiness is not all there is of them, for, in proportion to size of bird, there is no fowl that lays a larger egg than the Bantam. The small amount of food that they require and the goodly number of eggs that they lay are also in their favor. “BLACK AFRICAN BANTAMS are the smallest of the hen tribe, weighing only ten to fif- teen ounces.. But they areas conceited as Peacocks. Their plumage is jet black and they have white ear-lobes and small rose-combs. The cocks have large sweeping tails which with their color and small size make them very attractive. PEKIN OR COCHIN BANTAM. For some time there has been a variety of Bantams much admired for their quaint likeness to the well known Buff Co- chin, and recently the Black, White and Partridge varieties ‘have been originated. They will probably become popular among those who like an attractive fowl ‘‘built” on a small scale. GOLDEN SEBRIGHT BANTAMS. The Sebright Bantam is one of the hardiest varieties to breed to a high standard of perfection. In the opinion of some they are the most beautiful of all the Bantams and in many respects superior to any of the pigmies. Their 48 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. fine plumage, of rich, golden yellow, laced with black, large rose-combs, with well-developed spikes, and blue legs, make them an object of beauty, admired by all who see them. It required years to produce these little fellows. The tail feathers of the cock are rarely laced with black; in many cases running all black, but if nicely tipped with black, will stand good in the closest of competition. He PAIR OF GOLDEN SEBRIGHT BANTAMS. should be perfectly hen-feathered throughout. Not only should his tail be free from sickle feathers, but the feathering on the neck and saddle should be like the hen. The hen-tailed cock is the correct type and a bird with pure white ear-lobes has obtained one of the rarest points on the Sebrights, as in most cases they run of a bluish tint, and in many cases they are all red. The Silver Sebright only differs from the Golden in having the groundwork of the plumage silver white. BOOTED WHITE BANTAMS. These much resemble the Sebrights in shape and carriage, but their abundant hackle and saddle feathers and long BREEDS. 49 sickles give them quite a different appearance. They are pure white throughout and have single combs. The thighs are furnished with long, stiff feathers, and the shanks are heavily feathered, hence the name ‘‘Booted.”’ WHITE-CRESTED WHITE POLISH BANTAMS. This breed closely resembles the White-Crested Black Polish, except in size and color, although the comb may be either small and single or leaf (V-shaped). The plumage is SILVER SEBRIGHT BANTAM. pure white, and combined with the large crest makes them an attractive, ornamental fowls, for which they are especially adapted, being very domestic by nature, and readily sub- mitting to petting. JAPANESE BANTAMS are among the most admired of the Bantams, yet it is prob- ably their oddity rather than their beauty that gives them this distinction. They have very short legs, full breasts and low-carried wings, so that they often appear to be squatting when they are in reality standing. The cock has a large red comb and avery large tail, carried so erect that it often almost touches the back of his head. When mature they are 50 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. quite hardy, though their combs are easily frost-bitten; as ~~ chicks they are rather delicate. Although they have been bred in a variety of colors, there are only three varieties recognized in America, the White, the Black and the Black- Tailed, which is pure white excepting the tail. GAME BANTAMS. _ There are seven varieties of these, namely: Black- Breasted Red, Brown Red, Golden, and Silver Duckwing, Red PAIR OF JAPANESE BANTAMBS. Pyle, White and Black. They are the same in shape and color as the Games from which they are named, but the weight of the cock is only twenty-two ounces, while that of the hen is twenty. BLACK-RED GAME BANTAMS. Probably the most numerously bred Bantam is the Black- breasted Red. The brilliant pluming of the male and the slim, slick bodies of both sexes, with their upright carriage, make them very attractive. They are perfect miniature Games—exactly like the Black-Reds in color and’ style, only smaller. They are ~2ry handsome, saucy, independent and sprightly little pets, They lay abundantly, and, while their BREEDS. 51 ‘ eggs*are small, many prefer their flavor, when cooked, to those of larger breeds. ROSE-COMBED BANTAMS. These are just the opposite of Game Bantams in shape. The head is carried back over the body. The breast is car- ried well forward and the legs are set midway of the body. The tail is full and well expanded and the legs are short. The hens are good layers, producing eggs freely in the win- ter. The chicks. mature rapidly and are very pugnacious at an early age, often killing one another when only six weeks old. There are two varieties which differ little but in color. These are the White, pure white throughout, and the Black, lustrous black. z ODD VARIETIES OF BANTAMS. Fly Fishers are an English variety with a slaty blue plumage like the Andalusian. The hackle feathers are used in making artificial flies for fishing, hence the name. They are probably a close relation to the Cuckoo Bantam. The Silk Bantam is called a separate variety by some, but much resembles the Silkies, which are often no larger than a Bantam. Their plumage is very fine and much like silk. Frizzled Bantams are another oddity, having recurved plumage. They are nothing but dwarf specimens of the Friz- zled fowls, and are found only in England. THE ORIGIN OF GAMES. The origin of the Game cock is enveloped in con- siderable ‘obscurity, for whilst many naturalists affirm that it is the reclaimed wild jungle fowl, as still found in India, many ,others who have given the subject much careful consideration and research, are of the opinion that our Game fowls originated in Persia, where they deem it likely that a race of white- legged birds were very early reclaimed. but whose originals, like many wild animals, have long since become extinct. Their sporting history is recorded in Persia, and in the early records of China, although most writers point to Themista- cles as the first cocker known to fame, who, some historiang LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. oe Ww \ EN Wy ‘ si fh, iy AN " ye I yin gus vi Vee Be! Ae Wey 7 i Mee: Py aoe Zo pa BLACK-BREASTED RED MALAY, ‘ BREEDS. 53 state, received an omen of the success of the army he was leading, from the crowing of the cocks. But Aoileu, the author cited, says he saw the cocks fighting. Yet Idomeuses, long before that time, bore on his shield the effigies of a cock as a martial bird. History informs us that they were bred for fighting in the reign of Croesus, king of Lydia. (A. M. 3426). The ancient Dordanii had representations of cock fighting on their coins. The fighting cock was one of the principal gods of the Lyrians, and the learned Hebrew, Dr. Rabbi David, interpreting the 17th chapter of II. Kings, verses 30 and 31, says ‘‘Nergel’’ was a cock for war or fight- ing, or a champion cock, and by the Samaritans worshipped for a god.—Cocker’s Guide. BLACK-BREASTED RED MALAY. This breed much resembles the Black-Breasted Red Game in appearance and is the only variety of Malays that is recognized by the American Poultry Association, although white, pyle and ‘black colored varieties are also raised. None of them have ever been very popular in the United States. They are ungainly and of a savage disposition; the hens are only moderate layers and are apt to kill the chicks of others and sometimes even their own broods. The Malays have here- tofore been used principally in crossing with heavier breeds but they are now being rapidly superseded by their ‘‘cous- ins” the Indian Game. For the excellent illustration uf this breed, on the preceding page, we are indebted tothe American Agriculturist. = BLACK-BREASTED RED GAMES. This is one of the most beautiful and majestic as well as best known breed of Games. The accompanying illustra- tion gives a good idea of the general bearing of this bird. The plumage of the cock, as the name indicates, is red on neck and back, and black on breast, body and tail. The hen is not as brilliantly colored; the back is light brown penciled with dark brown; breast, light salmon, and the body ashy brown. They area very hardy fowl and are esteemed for the flavor of their flesh and eggs, and are perhaps the best adapted of all Games for the general use of the farmer. Some who have 54 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. been induced to keep them will now have- no other breed on their place. They are also favorites with the fancier. DUCKWING GAMES. The two varieties which comprise this breed are the Golden and the Silver. They both have the general Game characteristics, and the cocks are alike in the black plumage of breast, body, tail, thighs, and greater part of the wing. BLACK-BREASTED RED GAMES. The hackle and saddle of the Golden are straw-colored, and the back, shoulder coverts and wing-bows are golden. The Silver cock has silvery-white plumage in the place of the golden or straw-colored of the first mentioned variety. The hens of both varieties have salmon-colored breasts, black tails, and the rest of the plumage gray, but the Silver hen is of a lighter shade throughout than the Golden. THE BLACK AND THE WHITE GAMES are similar to the foregoing except in plumage—that of the Black being wholly black, with metallic lustre, and the White, pure white. PIT GAMES. These are often known as ‘Old English Games,’’ and are BREEDS, 55 bred in a variety of colors. Their name suggests the use to which they have ordinarily been put, but they are now being more generally bred for their beauty than heretofore. Their eggs and flesh are both of high quality, and though small in size the eggs are produced in abundance. They differ greatly from the ordinary game in shape—the head and legs are com- paratively short and the tail well spread and earried high. JAPANESE PHENIX FOWLS have never been bred any particular color, but are to be seen in nearly the variety of colors that the Games are. The hens have a gamy appearance and the cocks have very long tails, which makes them very attractive on the lawn. ‘They are fair layers, are about the size of the Leghorns, and quite similar to them in habit. HAMBURGS. We have already described two varieties of this breed— the Black and the Silver-spangled. There are four others— the Golden-spangled, the Golden-penciled, the Silver-penciled and the White. The only marked difference in the varieties isin the plumage. That of the Golden-spangled differs from that of the Silver-spangled in that the groundwork is red- dish or golden bay instead of silvery white, and the tail is greenish black. ; The Penciled varieties are much the same in plumage as their Spangled ‘‘cousins,’’ except that the black on the hens’ is in small even bars, and that on the cock is conspicuous for its absence, there being none except a slight marking on the wings and fluff. The White Hamburg has pure white plumage throughout. REDCAPS derive their name from their large, bright red, cap-shaped combs. They have been called the great English lay- ers and are noted for their wonderful egg-producing qualities. They lay a fine large egg and lots of them, some breeders claim more than the Leghorns or any other non-sitting breed, and that they are a better table fowl. They are heavier than the Leghorns and, their flesh being equally as good, they will bring more on the market, 56 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. after their usefulness as layers is past. This is quite a con- sideration in the minds of some, but it is impossible to com- bine excessive egg production and superior table qualities in one fowl. As to whether they are a beautiful bird, tastes differ. Some object to their large combs, and there are breeders making a point of the ‘‘neat, medium-sized combs” REDCAPS. of their birds. They have a plumage that will stand contam- ination with dirt, dust and weather the year round; and still look well. They are a shapely, well-formed, compact bird; a fowl for use and commercial purposes. The standard weight of the cock is seven and one-half pounds, that of the hen six and one-half, and when fattened for market they can be made to weigh one-half to two pounds more than the Leg- horns. The distinguishing feature of the Redcap, as sug- gested above, is the rose-comb, which should be at least medium large, full of fancy spikes, stand perfectly straight BREEDS. 57 and firm on the head, with a straight spike behind. The comb of the hen differs from that of the cock on!y in being smaller. The neck hackle of the cock is a rich dark red, or golden red, striped with bluish black; back, black and red; breast and tail, black; saddle hackle, rich deep red striped with bluish black; wings, nut brown; wing coverts, bluish black; legs, slate color and of good length, free from feathers; ear- lobes and face red. The ground-color of the hen is a rich nut brown, each feather tipped with a bluish black half-moon or crescent-shaped spangle; tail, black; ear-lobes and face, red; neck hackle laced with red. Whether considered ‘‘hand- some” or not they are finding great favor in America; it may be because ‘‘handsome is that handsome does.’’ AMERICAN DOMINIQUES. From this breed, combined with the Asiatics, sprang the well-known Plymouth Rock. They are very similar to their progeny, both in good qualities and appearance, excepting they have rose-combs‘ and are not quite as heavy. They mature quite early and are very hardy, being able to stand our Northern winters much better than most breeds. SILKIES are kept for their odd plumage, the feathers being soft, silky and pure white. They have a rose-comb, which is near- ly round and of a lumpy appearance. This is generally ex- posed to full view, as their compact crest falls backward, leaving the face and comb uncovered. The saddle feathers fall on either side of the tail in a silky mass. The shanks and outer toes are covered with silky feathers. This breed has five toes. The hensare good mothers; on this account, and because of the great warmth of their plumage they are used in rearing Pheasants and Eantams. BLACK SPANISH. This is the oldest of the non-sitting breeds, having been known for nearly two thousand years. This also makes it one of the earliest breeds that are still in favor. It is a very prolific layer of large, white eggs, but its flesh is not equal to that of many breeds. The birds have a large, smooth 58 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. face, pure white in color; the contrast between this and their solid black plumage gives them a beautiful appearance ‘to many people. Like most of the Mediterranean breeds their combs are very large and easily frosted; aside from this, they are naturally a hardy fowl, but their hardiness has been somewhat lessened by constant close breeding for a pure BLACK SPANISH. white face,.showing the foolish mistake some breeders always make—sacrifice a valuable quality to gratify » whim for a fancy (?) point. ORPING TONS are probably Plymouth Rocks colored by Langshan blood, though some claim they are a cross between the Langshan- and Minorca. They are fair imitations of the Black Java but inferior to them. The bottoms of the feét are pink instead BREEDS. 59 of yellow, the color of the Javas. In England they take the place of the Black Wyandotte. ENGLISH ‘‘FULL-FEATHERED’’ COCHINS. There are ‘‘fads’’? among chicken-fanciers as well as other FULL-FEATHERED PARTRIDGE COCHIN HEN (ENGLISH TYPE). people. One ‘‘point’? in fancy breeding among English breeders mueh sought for is the ‘‘full-feathered’’ type. Our illustrations on this and the following page show to what ex- treme the ‘‘point’’ has been bred. One is a typical full- feathered Partridge Cochin, the other a typical Buff Cochin, 60 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. FRIZZLED FOWLS . are only ‘oddities,’ and may be of any color and with either single or double combs, the one necessary charac- teristic being that the feathers curve backwards or upwards at the ends, especiallly in the hackle and saddle. JERSEY BLUES. This breed is not as well-known as the majority of the other American breeds. In shape and carriage “it is quite FULL-FEATHERED BUFF COCHIN (ENGLISH TYPE). similar to the Piymouth Rock. The plumage is dark. blue except on breast and body, where it is a light shade of blue, laced with dark. They are not very good layers, and their flesh is rather coarse and stringy. RUSSIANS. This is one of the less known breeds. They have a rose- comb and heavy beard. The back is broad and tapering to the tail; the breast, round and full, and the tail is carried erect. The plumage is greenish black. SULTANS. The plumage of this breed is pure white. They have BREEDs. 61 small combs, nearly concealed by their large, compact crests. The beard is full and unites with the crest, thus covering the face. The ‘body is square, deep and carried low. The tail is large and full. The thighs are short and vulture- hocked. The legs are heavily feathered. They have five toes. BLACK COCHINS. This variety has the same characteristics as the other PAIR FRIZZLED FOWLS. Cochins, but its solid black color gives it the preference with many breeders. POLISH. J have already mentioned at length some of the varieties of this highly ornamental breed. The others are very similar, except in color; which is the best is decided by the tastes of the owners. There are two varieties of the Silver, the Bearded and those without beard; their plumage is spangled and laced in the same manner as that of the Golden, but the ground-worlk: is silvery white, The Bearded and Unbearded 62 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. White have pure white plumage throughout. The plumage of the Buff-laced is rich buff, each feather being laced with pale buff. They have beards. RED PYLE GAME. This breed is noted for their courage and hardiness, yet not lacking in beauty. Color of male, head, hackle and sad- dle orange, light red or chestnut; back, red or crimson; breast, ground color white; shafts and margin of feathers, RED PYLE GAME. chestnut red; wings white and red; tail white; body white. Female, head, brownish red; breast, salmon; rest of plumage mostly white to creamy white. BROWN RED GAME. This variety of game is very handsome; color of male, neck, back and saddle lemon, with narrow stripe of black in the middle of the feathers; breast, ground color, black laced with lemon; wing bow, lemon; wing coverts, glossy black; primaries and secondaries, black; body and tail, black. The female, neck lemon with a narrow stripe of black in middle feathers, breast ground color black, evenly laced with lemon; otherwise the plumage is black througkout. The shanks _ and feet of both cock and hen are dark willow or nearly black. The hen is a very good layer, BREF 38. 63 RUMPLESS. ~ This is another oddity and, like the Frizzles, any color or avy. shape of comb isadmissible, so long as there is nc sign of a tail. THE CURASSOW isa native of South America. There are more than twelve THE CURASSOW. species of them, The best known is Crested Curassow, which has been domesticated in its native land. It is of a greenish black color with a white crest. Itmuch resembles the turkey in size, general characteristics and quality of flesh. Some claim that the flesh is whiter and of finer flavor. When taken from their home in the northern part of South 64 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. America they will thrive in fair-sized flocks in aviaries if kept on dry-soil and given plenty of shade and shelter, and given the same care as bestowed upon turkeys. Our illustration is taken from a drawing by Sewell for the Poultry ‘Monthly, of one of a pair on exhibition at Madison Square Garden, New York City, which were much admired and brought out many commendations. There is no doubt about their good points, and it will probably not be long before some live poultry breeder will push them to the front. WILD TURKEYS, as found indigenous to North America are the parent stock of all the breeds found in domestication. The male of the common Wild turkey is about three and one-half feet long and five feet in extent of wings, weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds. The naked skin of the neck and head is livid blue and the caruncle purplish red. The general color of plumage is copper bronze with green and metallic reflections, each feather with a velvet black margin; quills brown closely barred with white, tail feathers chestnut narrowly barred with black, and the tip with a very wide subterminal black bar. The female is smaller, usually weighing about nine pounds, and less brilliant in color, without spurs, often with- out bristles on the breast and with a smaller process above the base of the bill. The legs of both sexes are red or pink. The gobblers do not get their growth and full plum- age till the end of the third year and increase in weight and beauty for several years after that. Gobblers weighing thirty-six and forty pounds have been shot. The feathers lie very close and hard, so that the birds weigh more than their apparent size indicates. The hens do not get their full growth till four or five years old, and may be heavier later. Wild gobblers mate later and the hens lay later than domes- tic turkeys. The flesh is excellent in flavor and is more juicy and delicate than that of their domesticated descendants. Our illustration is a reduction from a reproduction of Andubon’s -fine colored plate of free wild gobbler, and is a faithful representation of this noble native Amer- ican, BREEDS, 65 66 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTBY BOOK. BRONZE TURKEYS. The Mammoth Bronze, as it is usually styled, is deemed IN ey Ly “i Wy Vy wT Li Dee AU COMINGS. ROCKFORD, nt BRONZE TURKEY (MALE). by all to be the largest and hardiest of allturkeys. The true Bronze is of a rich, changeable, metallic color, which shines in the sunlight like gold, The plumage of hen is not as brill- BREEDS. 67 iant asthe male nor the colors quite as clearly defined though similar throughout. They do not usually attain their full size and weight until from three to four years old. At ma- turity the hens weigh from fifteen to twenty pounds and the gobblers thirty-five to forty pounds each. The first year, how- ever, they will outweigh any other variety. They are ex- cellent layers, good mothers, hardy, make rapid growth, and are excellent foragers. The young may be raised by hens or turkey hens. The latter are, no doubt, much preferred as the turkey mother is more careful of the tender poults and it has been our experience that they may be entrusted to her care when first hatched, if the weather is warm and favorable. Should the weather be wet about the time they are hatched it is good policy to confine them for a week or more. After this they should be allowed to range with their mother when the grassisdry. — BLACK TURKEYS. This bird is a favorite on the market on account of its plump body and yellow skin. It is tamer than the other varieties, and fattens on less feed. It is also claimed to bea better sitter.° The plumage is lustrous black throughout. Shanks long and stout, of a dark lead or slaty black color. Standard weight: cock, twenty-seven pounds; hen, eighteen. , MAMMOTH WHITE TURKEYS. This distinct new breed, introduced in 1890, originated as a sport from the Mammoth Bronze, in a similar manner as most white fowls have come as sports from the darker varie- ties. The breeder has spent a number of years in perfecting them, and now they throw only occasionally a dark poult. They have the general characteristics of the Bronze variety, except that they are even handsomer, mature earlier, and are rather more domestic in their habits. The plumage is pure white throughout, the heads and wattles bright red, and shanks pinkish or flesh color. They almost equal in size the Mammotif Bronze turkeys. They are not, as some might suppose, selected from the White Hollands, but are a distinct, breed in every particular, and are certainly a great acquisi- 68 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. tion as the first and only breed of pure white turkeys that is both hardy and of large size. WHITE HOLLAND TURKEYS. White Holland turkeys rank high as table fowls, mak- ing a nice appearance when dressed. They have a plump, fine-boned carcass and juicy, well-flavored meat. While not as large as the Bronze turkeys they dress fully as high a per- centage of flesh. The standard weight of the cock is twenty- six pounds, that of the hen sixteen. They have a lighter colored skin than other breeds. The skin of the body has a pinkish tinge which is attractive. White Hollands have clear white plumage, though during summer, like other white fowls, they become more or less yellow. The bills, legs and feet are a white, pinkish or flesh color. They are usually favorites on the market on account of their at- tractive appearance and delicate flesh. At seven months of age they weigh as much as the Bronze, but at a year old they fall short. They are the best layers and mothers of any of the turkey tribe, and are more domestic in their habits. NARRAGANSETT TURKEYS. This breed is nearly as large as the Bronze and matures much more rapidly. The plumage is metallic black, each feather ending in a steel gray band edged with black, which gives it an attractive appearance. The standard weight is thirty-two pounds for the cocks and twenty-two for the hens. BUFF AND SLATE TURKEYS are identical with the Black except in color of plumage and shanks. The name in each variety indicates the color of plu- mage. The shanks of the Buff are bluish-white or flesh-color;' those of the Slate are light or dark blue. ROUEN DUCKS. This breed is supposed to have originated from the common wild duck. They are greatly admired on account of their changeable colors, with the beautiful markings of the Mallard, the fine close plumage, the rich purple upon the wing of the drake, the delicate pencilings upon his sides, the BREEDS. 69 claret color of his breast,the green and blue reflections of his head and the lustrous green of his back. The color of the female is in general grayish brown with more or less green. Well fattened, the Rouens are excellent for the table, and hence a profitable market duck. Young Rouens grow very rapidly, and pay well for market, when turned off at an early age; are good layers of large-sized eggs, are very quiet and easy to raise. Pekin and Rouen ducks can be raised PAIR ROUEN DUCKS. without either streams or ponds, provided they have plenty of drinking water; and a tub or half barrel sunk in the ground will give them great comfort. The shanks are ofa bright orange color. The mature bird weighs more than the Pekin, but does not gain as rapidly while young. AYLESBURY DUCKS. This breed is largely raised in England for young market ducks. It attains a large size early and its pure white plumage brings a ready sale for it. When full grown it is larger than the Pekin. The bill should be pale flesh color with no dark spots and the shanks and toes, bright orange. The body is long and well balanced. Where it can have plenty of clear water so as to keep clean, it is pretty. 70 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. It is in some respects the most profitablé duck for market, as it is better flavored than the Pekin. CAYUGA DUCKS. This popular variety originated on Cayuga Lake, from whence its name, and was originally a wild duck frequenting this lake. Inthe juiciness and richness of its flesh it par- PAIR CAYUGA DUCKS. takes of that peculiar game flavor which distinguishes the Canvasback. The plumage of this duck should be a jet glossy black, the feathers of the drake having a lustrous greenish hue in the sunshine, which gives him a peculiarly rich appearance. The Cayugas are very quiet in their habits, and are not disposed to wander from home. They generally commence laying about the first of April, and lay from sixty to seventy eggs before wishing to sit, which they do well, but are careless mothers. They are hardy, and cross ‘well with other ducks. The standard weight of the drake is eight pounds, and that of the duck seven. BREEDS. WL CRESTED WHITE DUCKS. This breed is pure white and has a large, well- balanced crest which makes them very attractive. They ate very pro- lific layers and their eggs unusually fertile. They are a little - smaller than most of the other breeds. MUSCOVY DUCKS. These in their wild state were originally found in South America. In their native state they are glossy black with CRESTED WHITE DUCKS. white wing coverts. They have a naked red face and a large red carbuncle on the top of the bill at the base, and long, crest-like feathers on the head. They have a musky odor tame duck. There are two varieties in domestication, the Colored—the plumage of which is black with more or less white feathers; and the White—pure white throughout. They are very savage, driving all other fowls away, and are very homely looking. They are the largest of the duck family kept in domestication. PEKIN DUCKS, as their name indicates, come from China. They are a large, beautiful bird of erect carriage. The plumage is pure 72 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. white outside. The inside feathers are slightly cream- colored. The neck is long and gracefully curved, the head long and finely shaped, the eye full and bright. PEKIN DRAKE. The legs and beak are a very dark orange, making a fine contrast with the pure white feathers. The mature drake should weigh eight pounds, the mature duck seven. As bred by Mr. Rankin, a pair dressed often weighs twenty pounds at maturity. They lay early and pro- duce more eggs than any other breed. They mature early, are hardy, domestic in their habits, do not wander far and BREEDS. 3. return to their coops at night. They are not mischievous, require less water than other breeds, and their feathers sell at a good price. To Stop a Stampede.—Pekin ducks are very timid. This sometimes causes trouble when they are closely confined in large numbers. When six or eight weeks old; or even after they are grown, they often get frightened dark nights. Being unable to see, one bird will touch another, it will spring away and touch several more. In an instant the whole flock are in commotion and treading upon each other. There will be a perfect stampede, sometimes kept up the whole night. After sucha worrying night many of the birds will be all tired out, and some of them unable to get up. If this disturbance continues—good-bye to all fattening of the birds or any laying. If there is no moon, hanging lanterns about the yards will bring order and quiet. CALL DUCKS. There are two varieties of the Call—the White, which resembles the Aylesbury in color, except the bill is bright yellow, and the Gray, which resembles the Rouen. Both are small and kept chiefly for ornamentation in the lakes of parks or the lawns of private residences. BLACK EAST INDIAN DUCKS. This is the smallest variety of domesticated ducks. Al- though the flesh is of fine flavor, they are especially valued for the pleasing appearance of their brilliant greenish black plumage. EMBDEN GEESE. These and the Toulouse are the two largest and most profitable breeds of geese, and many consider them as the only ones for practical purposes. The Embden takes its name froma town inGermany. Their pure white plumage makes them especially valuable where feathers are an ob- ject. The flesh is very tender and juicy and highly esteemed by epicures, being likened to that of the Canvasback duck. They mature earlier than the Toulouse, but the standard weight is the same, twenty-five pounds for the gander. 74 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK, TOULOUSE GEESE. This breed is probably the best known of geese. They take their name from a town on the Garonne r.ver in France. The plumage of the head, neck and back is dark gray, that of the breast and body light gray, shading into white on the belly. They are very hardy and are pro- lific layers, not being very good sitters. They are more PAIR TOULOUSE GEESE. easily kept without a pond of water than the Embden and also with care can be made to weigh more. AFRICAN GEESE. The plumage of the African is gray, varying in shade on different parts of the body, They have a large black knob and a fleshy membrane under the throat. The neck is long and well curved but does not have-the graceful arch of the swan. EGYPTIAN GEESE. This is the smallest of domesticated geese and is alsc BREEDS. 75 ° very prolific. The plumage of head, neck, back and upper part of body is gray and black; the breast is chestnut in center and gray elsewhere, the under part of the body is pale yellow penciled with black, the shoulders are white with a narrow stripe of black. CHINESE GEESE. These are, as their name indicates, natives of China. Although they possess much merit, they are kept principally for ornamental purposes. Their swan-like, arched necks give them a graceful appearance in the water. They havea knob at base of bill. They lay large litters of eggs twice or thrice a year. There are two varieties, the Brown and the White—very similar except in color. The plumage of th2 Brown is dark brown on head and back, and light or grayish brown on neck, breast and body; the knob and bill are dark brown or black; the shanks and toes are dark or dusky orange. The White has a pure white plumage throughout, which, together with their orange-colored knobs, bills and feet, makes them especially attractive. Their feathers, also, bring a high price. CANADA GEESE. This breed was formerly known as the Wild goose, being a domesticated variety of the Canadian goose. The plumage ot the head, neck and tail is black, that of the back and wings dark gray, breast, light gray, growing darker toward the legs. Under part of body white. The neck is long and * slender and the bill and legs black, CHAPTER II. CARE AND FEEDING OF POULTRY, It will not do to say ‘‘provide for poultry as nature provides for them,” for their conditions and surroundings in domestication are different from what they are in their wild state. Notwithstanding this there is a right and a wrong way totreat poultry if we expect them to do their best and give a money return for their keep. First, they should not be exposed to all sorts of weather with no chance to escape from its bad effects. Shelter from storm and damp and shade from sun should be given. They should have clean quarters, be provided pure water and wholesome food and be afforded opportunity to take care of themselves as nature dictates. All these requirements may be met, without great money outlay for expensive buildings or elaborate furnishings. The locality and the object for which fowls are kept must largely determine the style of buildings provided and food furnished. In a warm climate the houses need furnish no more than a shelter from rain and wind and a shade from the sun. The food should be determined upon by the result wished and i the cost, always seeking a ration that meets the require- ments at the least expense. As an aid in determining the latter we give a table on the following page from Wright’s Illustrated Book ‘of Poultry, showing the value of vari- ous feeding stuffs for feed. Though the table may not be strictly correct as determined by chemical analysis, it gives the relative feeding value of the substances named. In mak- ing up rations the elements of ‘‘relish’’ by the fowl and the ability of assimilating must be taken into account as well as “value.” ; Provided with such shelter as the climate and locality CARE AND FEEDING. vu g demand, the next thing needed is to keep it clean. If the fowls are kept yarded the inclosure must also be kept clean and healthiul by frequently stirring the .soil or by a supply -of fresh mold or an absorbent of some kind. Have the floor of the house dry some way, and if the yard is drained, it will be all the better; it at least must be free of standing, stag- nant water. If the shelter is all right and the fowls huve a wide range they will look out for themselves, with much less work on the part of their owner, who will have only to see that lime, grit, dust and pure water are where they can get them. Of course, the nature of the range will determine whether green food or meat should be provided. If the range be a solid rock or a sand-hill, even though a quarter section in extent, the fowls would have to be given some green stuff. an. bo 4 3 ‘sg > 3 |Warmth-giving |-4 ~‘s 2 8 ke Ba? ‘and Fattening/g4" & a8 g |Materials, viz. ag ag 5 E There are in every) 492 oooo; 4 2 100 parts by | @25 |Fator(oin|Sfae 3 3 weight of Bas | Oil. WNESe! = Beans and Peas....| 25 2 48 2 8 15 Oatmeal....... .| 18 6 63 2 2 9 18 G 2 53 5 4 14 15 6 47 2 20 10 12 8 70 2 1 12 Barl mote te | et iw la arley....... veel dd Indian Corn........| 11 8 | «65 lL, 5 10 Hempseed.......... 10 21 45 2 14 8 Riee oe vesann 7 atrace | 80 atrace})........ 13. Potatoes .... bg | eeeeaas 41 Bo diese nag 5014 MBG cs nes cpio cae ay 18 5 Oe Necewece 8634 Although fowls on a free range will ‘‘take care of them- selves’? at much less cost, in money and labor, to their owner, it does not prove that they will be more profitable to him if allowed free range only, for in these days of specialties the successful poultry-keeper must feed for a special purpose. The free range fowl will be a healthy one, but the poultry- man who makes the most money these days must add to health some other quality, and his success depends on know- 78 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. ing how to feed and to care for his flock so as to keep health, and gain his special point, too. His ‘‘point’’ may be eggs, and eggs alone; it may be early marketable chickens, heavy weight and a fat carcass, or health and vigor of breeding stock and progeny. In each case the feeding and manage- ment differ; except in the latter case, there is a choice of breeds for the best results. One advantage the poultry-keeper has over the keeper of animals for profit is, fowls are omnivorous—eat everything, excelling even swine in this. This fact should teach every ‘one that a constant feeding of one grain or one vegetable or one animal substance will not produce the best results. Yet there are scores and hundreds of farmers who throw out corn, and corn alone, to their fowls from December to April and then declare that ‘‘hens eat their heads off every winter.’’ This omnivorous quality of fowls gives the poultry-keeper the op- portunity of making up aration of the foods at his command that will produce the result sought. The far-back parents of our domestic fowls mixed their meat and vegetables as gathered on the range; the successful poultry-keeper of to- day must mix them for his fowls to reach the end sought at the least cost. Variety is the “spice” in a fowl’s food. In selecting and mixing the ‘‘variety” we are governed more by our surroundings than by choice. The farmer of the West will continue to use all the corn he can consistently with a good ration, while the New Englander near the seaboard will feed all the fish consistent with good results. Whatever the ration, wholesomeness must be kept in mind. Moldy corn, rotten potatoes and putrid flesh are not whoiesome, although fowls will eat them. Perhaps the theory advanced by some that the gizzard removes the ob- jectional features of such feed is correct, but our experience teaches us the flavor, color and quality of eggs are affected by feed. This being the case it does not seem reasonable that all impurities are removed from food by being passed ¢hrough a hen’s gizzard. Experience also teaches that fowls have sickened and died when no cause but improper food could be found. It issafer not to take chances anyway, and it is much pleasanter, to say the least, to eat eggs and poultry CARE AND FEEDING. "9 not - produced from offal, carrion or rotten grain. With the majority of- poultry-keepers, grain constitutes the principal part of their feeding ration, at least in money value. Of the ; GRAIN used in this country probably Indian corn outweighs the rest. It is fed whole, cracked, ground, raw or cooked. Refer- ring to the table, on page 77, it will be seen corn contains very little bone-forming material, while it is very rich in fat- forming and warmth-giving substances. Although ‘corn pro. duces eggs with yolks of dark color and rich flavor, it is not recommended for layers unmixed with other grains. For fattening purposes it can not be excelled and should be fed in various forms to keep up the appetite. The ‘‘variety’? may be increased if some meal is made by grinding the corn and cob together. : Oats are a good nerve food and are not fattening, but their sharpness is an objection to them, as is the amount of waste or useless matter in the husks, especially in poor, light grain. The first objection may be removed by grinding them very fine, but this is difficult todo. Oatmeal isan excellent food but is rather expensive. If oats are to be fed whole or ground husk and all, the heavier they are the cheaper. Forty pound oats contain but little if any more weight of husks than twenty-eight or thirty pound oats. Very light or small oats will often not be eaten unless they are soaked and made larger. This does not add to their nourishment, but compels biddie to get out what little there isin them. If hens that should lay are too fat, a diet of oats will reduce the fatness Ground oats and boiled potatoes make an excellent food for producing fertile eggs and vigorous chickens. Wheat and its by-products, screenings, bran and mid- dlings, may form a part of an economical ration in many parts of our country, though wheat itself is rather expensive. If screenings are used they should be fed raw so the fowls will not be compelled to eat the dust, poisonous seeds and other foulness contained in them. Moistened bran is apt to produce scours, especially during the winter, and if fed at all should be alternated with whole grain. Though wheat is 80 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. ! rich in material for growth, easy of digestion and stimulates egg production, it should be fed less freely than corm, as too much of it produces diarrhea. In regions where corn can not be successfully grown and barley may, the latter can be used as a very fair substitute; though all that is eaten does not seemto be digested, fowls will thrive on it for a while and it may be used in the make- up of a ration where raised or procured at a reasonable price. There is little value in barley malt; it must be fed fresh. If used too freely it scours. In this country buckwheat is fed more tomake a glossy plumage than as a staple part of the ration. It is very fat- tening, and in France where largely used- it is said to be valuable in whitening the flesh. The yolks of eggs produced from it are pale. Sunflower seeds are also good for giving a glossy plumage anda few fed occasionally whet the appetite. We have never been able to induce our fowls to eat whole rye, so consider it of no value as ‘‘chicken feed.” Of course when eaten it has some value, but we should never buy any and try to worry it down our flock for the sake of “variety.’? Rye feed or bran, mixed with oat or corn meal and moistened, might help to cheapen a ration under some circumstances. It should not be fed alone as it may vake in the crop and produce death. Millet and Hungarian on account of their small size are very nice grains for young chicks and where raised or when reasonable in price may help make up the variety in the ration of fowls. In the rice-growing States,that grain is often the cheapest feed that can be procured. Thisis especially so when broken, or dirty or-discolored from wetting. It is claimed to be better than corn meal for young chickens. In India it is much used for fattening poultry. It produces white flesh. After grains,it is an open question whether green food in the shape of grasses and herbs or animal food in the form of insects comes next in the bill of fare of birds, from which our poultry is derived, in their wild or native state, but we are inclined to the belief that CARE AND FEEDING. 81 ANIMAL FOOD j stands first, so place that next in our list of foods for poultry. When insects are abundant and fowls have a large, free range they can generally help themselves to about ail they wish, but when contined and during the winter, animal food must be supplied by the keeper if had at all. Even when on the range there are some drawbacks, as certain classes of bugs with hard hooks on their legs are disastrous to young poultry; the hooks fasten to each other and to the crop, causing a fatal distension of that organ. Another drawback is the liability of the fowls eating poisonous bugs and vermin. Again, some breeds are not good enough foragers to get suf- ficient ‘‘meat’’ to do their best for their owners. And unless the range is very large the best foragers are curtailed in their operations. If one were to follow the course of nature and furnish poultry the form of animal food they most prefer and than which there is probably nothing better he would give them worms and maggots. These may be bred and fed in their prime; being easily digested they are peculiarly fitted for supplying young chickens with animal food. The breeding places of such food as are offensive to the nostrils should be located at some distance from the house. In summer time expose a quantity of fresh bones to the flies for a day or so, then cover them lightly with fresh mold and in two or three days there will be thousands of worms ready for the fowls. The carcass of any animal either whole or in large pieces hung up out of reach or slightly buried will furnish plenty of maggots. Blood procured from slaughter-houses, exposed to blow flies and then lightly covered with manure, will produce large white worms inabundance. Other ways of obtaining these delicacies for poultry will suggest themselves to him who wishes to minister to the wants of his pets or money-makers. For little chicks there is probably no easier, surer way of providing good, wholesome, palatable live animal food than furnishing them meal or flour worms, which may be done as readily in winter as in summer if the hatchery is kept in a warm place. As a starter, get a few hundred worms from a baker, miller or any one else who has flour 82 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. stored in quantities. Place the worms ina crock or other earthen vessel with odd bits of woolen cloth rubbed with tal- low, crumpled paper and other refuse mixed with musty meal or flour. Over all put some gauze cloth or cotton waste,which must be kept moist. Ina couple of months there will be asup- ply that may be drawn upon daily if the feeding stuffs are re- newed from time totime. Ifchickens are raised in large numbers and it is desired to supply them with flour worms, the size or number of the propagating ‘‘house’’ can be in- creased. The hatchery for worms may be set going before the incubator or biddie; then there will be no waiting fora supply of insects when the chicks are ready for them. Without doubt the cheapest and pleasantest way, in the majority of cases in this country, of supplying animal food to poultry is by furnishing them meat in some form. Yor small flocks, table scravs will generally furnish enough, but where fowls are kept in any number a given amount should be pro- vided. An ounce a day per adult fowl! of ordinary size is con- sidered about right. The large Asiatics need a little more. Mr. A. W. Kinney, Yarmouth, Nova Scotia, is an extremist in meat feeding, and, if it were not for getting his hens too fat, would probably feed them meat exclusively. He, in theory, thinks a varied ration is nonsense, but in practice he gives a mixed ration. When his hens are moulting he feeds more than half a pound of meat a day per hen. When his flock consists of hens, through moulting, and young pullets he feeds fifty pounds « day to 200 fowls, and thinks that hardly enough. He uses cows’ heads, boils them till the meat all slips off, then runs it through a cutter and mixes with ground grain—one pound of grain to five of the meat. This makes about the right composition. The hens are watched; so is the mixture. If too much grain, they pick out the meat and leave the grain; if too much meat, it will pack down and they will not eat as much as he thinks they ought to have. To still more vary their ration, he cuts up the bone and feeds that for a day or two after feeding the meat for some days. Mr. Kinney says he has “some Light Brahma hens that will take a pound of meat each day for weeks, and not wink at it, but rather look around for several ounces CARE AND FEEDING. 83 more before roosting time.’’ But they get so fat they will not lay. He says ‘‘a hen will grow fat very much quicker on meat than on corn.”’ Other good feeders claim that meat should be chopped or minced, so each fowl gets its proportionate share. We area great believer in exercise and we as often feed meat to our flock in large pieces as minced, as it causes the fowls to work more for whatthey get. The effort in getting it off and the ex- ercise taken in chasing one who hasa piece that can be carried aloft in the beak, is beneficial, we think. The same end is reached by hanging a pluck just high enough to make a fowl jump to reach it. Meat furnished by means of cows’ heads and sheep’s heads, uncooked, gives exercise. Where large flocks of poultry are kept the heads are often boiled and the liquor used in making mush for the fowls. In this case the meat may be chopped and fed separately or as an ingredient of the mush. It goes without saying that fresh meat and not putrid is the proper kind to feed. For little chicks we should mince the meat, whether fed raw or cooked. Do not feed too much to chicks. E The question as to which is the most economical way to provide the meat will present itself to each pou tryman, and he must solve it as his circumstances, surroundings and judg- ment compel. Some may be able to get butchers’ waste— plucks of calves, sheep, hogs and cattle; or, perhaps, only the lungs. If not cooked, or fed in large chunks, these may be run through a sausage-chopper. In dairy regions, where the young calves are sold for about what their skins are worth, a good supply can be had cheaply for large flocks. In- cities or villages enough may be had for ordinary flocks from the local marketmen—the trimmings made on the block and counter. Before the introduction of machines for pulping green bone we used to procure such at fifty cents per hun- dred pounds, from a near marketman. After the fowls had cleaned off the meat we gathered the bones and used them as fertilizer. Now, with a green bone cutter, the whole mass —bones, gristle, fat and lean—may be put in the best of shape to have the fowls consume it all. And the ‘“‘all’” is a most excellent food. 84 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. Milk is an animal food and one of the best for young chicks. It is not probable that much whole milk will be fed, but skim milk may be made as good, practically, for feeding purposes, by the addition of a little tallow or other fat. Fish, flesh and fowl are usually considered enough alike to be substituted one for the other, in ordinary households; so, in the ordinary poultry-yard that is situated near the ‘sea; fish is considered a cheap substitute for flesh; but there is one drawback—most people prefer their roast duck or broiled chicken to have a fowl taste, not a fish, and fish do flavor fowl when fed to them in excess. Some claim that the fish taste will not be. present if the use of fish as feed is dis- continued for five or six weeks before killing the fowl. Eggs are also flavored, which precludes the feeding of much fish to laying hens. If fish are fed raw they should be chopped up and a little salt and pepper added. If boiled, they may be thrown out whole. Never feed stale fish. Where clams are plenty and cheap they may be crushed fine, shells and all, and fed either raw or cooked. After feeding meat in chunks, or whole fish, all refuse should be.gathered and consigned to the compost heap. 3 GREEN FooD. If any one doubts that fowls need or relish some vege- table in their diet let him turn a flock from confinement in bare quarters onto a plat of grass; even though there may be corn in abundance in plain view, they will tumble over that and cach other in their haste and eagerness to get a nip of the grass. Where abundance of range can be had, the cheap- est, best way to furnish green stuff is to let the fowls help themselves to what grass they wish. It is claimed that ten geese require as much pasture as a cow, and two hundred hens will consume or destroy the grass on an acre of ground. At any rate, it isa fact that where poultry is kept in large numbers green stuff must be furnished them, or the buildings will be so far apart as to add so much to the labor of caring for them that the profits will be reduced, or else the poultry will not do their best. In short, the poultry-keeper must supply green vegetable food to his flock, if confined, or if very large, if he means to make money from them. If he is CARE AND FEEDING. : 85 keeping them for pleasure he needs to, that they may be | healthy, pretty and spry. How shall this be done? Grass and clover stand first as regards cheapness and ease of sup- plying in summer, and if cut at the right stage and cured properly they make good winter feed. Green corn and young grain, cabbage, lettuce and fruits, come next for summer food. The vegetables, turnips, beets, potatoes, carrots, coine in well for winter feed as do cabbages and apples. Geese will do well upon a ration composed almost wholly of grass —fowls do not do as well if their ration is principally grass or other green food. Some is necessary to good health; tvo much is not conducive to their best welfare. If fowls have not been accustomed to green food, especially in the winter time, they may be taught to eat it by mixing it with their meal, at first. But if given them in cabbages they will hardly need to be tanght. Loose heads, buried in the fall, will be much firmer when taken out in the winter or spring. Hay made from nice grass or clover may be made nearly as palatable as when fresh, by running it through a cutter and then scalding or steaming. The same end may be accom- plished with less work with silage. The refuse of the vege- table garden, pea vines and corn husks, may be run through a cutter and put into a silo and used in winter. Whatever is cheapest and handiest is the ‘‘what’’ to use, but be sure and use something. If turnips are used they should be chopped up fine. Kohl-rabi and other tender vegetables will be readily eaten if they are simply cut in two and placed where the fowls can get at them. In winter, when the flock is the- least able to supply itself with green food, is when most farmers fail to provide it. A little thoughtfulness and time in the summer and fall will procure an abundant supply for what fowls are kept on the ordinary farm. If no provision has been made, at least a little hay or a few corn-stalks should be run through a cutter and thrown to the fowls two or three times a week. ; . Young onion tops chopped fine are excellent for young chicks. If to be sold as broilers the onions should be with- held a while before killing, as they impart a flavor to the flesh that those who prefer to do their own seasoning do not 86 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. relish. Dandelion leaves are relished by young turkeys, and apples may be chopped and given to geese; hens will take care of apples that are not very hard—harvest apples, for in- stance—without any preparation, except placing them within their reach. Young and tender weeds, fresh-cut sods, lawn clippings and ears of corn in the milk or dough all give green food in the summer that is relished by poultry. COOKED FOOD. No one disputes the fact that birds of all species in their wild state take their food, be it grain, animal oz vegetable, in a raw state—in a wild state for that matter; but our poultry has been bred so far from their natural condition, and so much more is required of them in egg production, weight of carcass or early maturity, that they are called upon to live and work at high pressure, and must have their wants, abnormal though they be, supplied in keeping with the requirements. One way to do this is to cook part of their food; this alone adds variety if we use but one grain and feed part of it raw and part of it cooked. Fowls prefer some foods cooked rather than raw; others raw to cooked, and their preference should be consulted. Care must be used in feeding cooked food to laying or breeding stock, as it is more fattening than raw food. In cold weather cooked food may be fed warm and is greatly relished. As cooked food is more easily digested than raw, it is best to feed raw grain at night, as the time till the morning feed is longer than be- tween the other feedings. Corn is an excellent evening meal and in winter it is well to warm it before feeding. The simplest way to cook poultry feed is to boilit. The grains—corn, wheat, buckwheat, rice—may be boiled or steamed. If boiled they should be kept from the bottom of the vessel by means of a perforated plate of sheet iron. Mush may be made from any of the grains ground and fed when fresh made or cold. If fed fresh be sure it is not too hot. Fowls have died from being fed food that wastoo hot. Beets, turnips, potatoes, pumpkins, may be boiled, mashed and a fine pudding made by thickening them with meal of any kind, bran or middlings, or a mixture of these. The pudding CARE AND FEEDING. 87 will be more civilized if the vegetables are cleaned before being cooked. Whether cooked or raw, sloppy food is not recommended. Give solid food and drink, either milk or water, but do not compel the fowls to eat a lot of slop to get a little solid. Meals of various kinds, either sing)y or mixed, or mixed with bran or middlings, may be mixed with water or milk, a little salt added, and baked into cakes.. If water is used, the cake will be much lighter if some cheap baking powder is used. Sour milk and baking soda or saleratus will give much better satisfaction. Cornmeal cakes made this way, then moistened with sweet milk,make an excellent factor in the feed of young poultry. Where milk is fed in large quantities it is much better'to scald it. Ifsour when fed to little chicks they will relish it much better, and will thrive better on it if it is heated enough to separate the whey from the eurd, giving them the curd only. Beans and peas are hearty food; the former need to be cooked in order to have the fowls eat them; ground, the meal may be used in mush. Boiled whole, they may be thickened with meal of any kind. Where but a small number of poultry are kept on the farm or in the village, and there are not facilities for cooking, except on the kitchen stove, it is more than likely the cooked food given them will consist priucipally of mush or scalded meals. In this case the raw vegetables must not be omitted in winter. Where arrangements are such that the cooking may be done without interfering with the household arrangements, it will pay to cook some, even for a small flock. FEEDING FOR FRAME AND FLESH. When the chick comes from the shell, the first thing the owner wants of it is to grow—grow in frame and flesh. Then it must be fed for that. It will need no food for the first twenty-four hours; it carries the first day’s supply with it from the egg that has nourished it during incubation. Yolk of egg being its infantile food it will be well to continue ita few days. Drop the yolks into boiling water, and when partly cooked mix with an equal quantity of bread crumbs or corn cake made as recommended above Where raised 88 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. in large numbers bread may be made from cheap flour and with less kneading than for household use. The longer the egg diet is continued the faster and stronger the chicks grow. One egg a day for six or eight will be enough at first; gradually increase the amount till at the end of three weeks two a day are fed to halfadozen chicks. Eggs that have been in the incubator for a few days and proved to be infer- tile will do good service in this way and should be saved for: this purpose. The feeding should be at regular intervals, and for the first week once in two hours is proper. As they increase in age the number of feedings per day may be lessened till three times daily is reached. When three months old, four or five times a day is better than three. As they grow, and need more than the egg and crumbs, they should be fed the meal worms mentioned under animal food,'or liver and other meat may be boiled and chopped very fine and given them. Also, cook coarse corn meal. For variety let them have some millet or hungarian seed, chopped grass, onion tops, boiled po- tatoes; as they get still larger, wheat; cracked corn and rice. When feathering-out time comes let them have bone meal, or pulped green bone and grissle. The bone meal may be mixed with the regular feed. Let them have a small, clean grit of some kind. And do not give all the skim-milk to the pigs. Fed sweet to the growing chicks it will bring a fair price per 100 pounds. If given all they want of it, they will need no water, except in warm weather. Give it then for their comfort. FEEDING FOR EGGS. Before our chicks reach the age at. which the pullets will lay, the cockerels, unless reserved for breeders. should have been sold for broilers or spring chickens, or caponized. When the pullets are fed for egg production, two extremes in feed- ing are to be guarded against—too much and too little. Too much produces fat, and a fat hen will not: lay—too little gives insufficient nourishment, and a weakly hen will do lit- tle laying. The amount fed is not the only thing to be con- sidered—the quality, as well, has something to do with the CARE AND FEEDING. 89 laying, and the condition of the hen when through. The draft on her system is not slight, and the amount the hen eats to supply this draft is great. The digestive organs are taxed to their utmost to take care of the extra feed, and the wise feeder will provide the ration that can be easily digested, so as to use all the surplus energy of the hen in producing eggs; not in taking care of whole corn as an entire ration. Give some corn, especially at night, but let the food be varied. Cooked or scalded meal and middlings, cooked and raw veg- etables—grass or hay steamed. Provide lime in some shape. Give ground bone; crushed oyster shells; a piece of lime daily in the drinking water; burned bone; refuse from mortar heds.. All these will furnish lime, which, with that in the wheat that ought to be fed, will provide enough. If egg shells are fed they must be finely pulverized or the hens may form the egg-eating habit. Considering egg production for consumption (not hatch- ing) only, the hens may be stimulated somewhat by the use of cayenne pepper or other warming condiments. Some good feeders do not use condiments of any sort, unless salt may be classed as one. It in not a badrule, if condiments are used, to season the food as you would for your own taste. Now, tastes differ, but the longer one uses condiments, the stronger or thicker he wishes them—follow the same plan with the fowls. Always season with a little salt whether you believe in condiments or not. Rock salt, or salt that contains large crystals, should not be exposed so fowls can help themselves, as they would be apt to help themselves to it for grit, and it would not take long for an injurious, if not fatal, amount to be swallowed. Ex- periment has shown that a quarter of a pound of salt may be fed to 100 hens each day without injurious effects, after they have been fed a smaller amount for some days previous. It is probable that an ounce a day for 100 mature fowls is about right for health and best results. Laying hens, especially those confined, should not be fed too much tallow. Experi- ment has proved that hens with oil meal instead of tallow in their rations laid a few more eggs; tallow is also deficient in nitrogen and the moulting season is delayed and prolonged. 90 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. A highly nitrogenous ration helps to early, speedy moulting. Give warm, clean quarters, variety in feed, pure water, grit and lime to young hens or pullets of a laying breed, and good eggs in abundance ought to be had. FEEDING FOR FAT. Food is-not all that is needed to make fat fowls. The fowl must be well and well-fed up to time of being fed for fattening. To get the best return for food consumed the fowl should have obtained its growth before fattening be- gins. In fact, before this, one can hardly be said to be fat- tening the fowls, though in a well fowl all food that is di- gested goes toward frame or foundation for building fat upon. And if a fowl has not been well fed from the shell up, it never can be well fattened. The fat will be poor or the expense so great for getting on good fat that the fattener will be poor—in pocket from the transaction. Well-fed chicks of the large breeds will be ready for the fattening pen when four or five months old. Some cross-bred fowls will be ready for the pen earlier than this if properly fed. We say ready for the pen, because quiet and inactivity are conducive to the best results in laying on fat, though the flavor of the flesh of fowls confined is not equal to that of those allowed to run at large. Put ten or a dozen in each pen, hens by themselves and cocks by themselves, putting together those in each case that have been accustomed to be- ing together. Have the coops warm and without perches; be sure they are clean, dryand kept free from vermin. They should be darkened at least part of the time. Ifin a dark- ened building that is enough; if not, a blanket may be thrown over the coops for two or three hours after each feed- ing. The ration must contain but few vegetables, and little green food or milk. The meat food should be largely fat, but this should not be fed in excess, as it may lessen the fine flavor of the flesh. The experience of Mr. Kinney contradicts the anti- meat theory, ashe is able to lay on fat with lean meat alone. But this would not be an economical ration in most localities in our country where corn is recognized as the cheapest and best food for fattening purposes. This being so, the only CARE AND FEEDING. 91 thing to be guarded against is too constant feeding of a uni- form ration. Vary the ration often enough to prolong the relish for feed and the power of digestion till the fowl has reached the highest possible point of profitable fatness. This may be done by changing from whole corn to meal, fed either raw or cooked. Oats and buckwheat may be fed asa change. But corn meal is the staple feed; the others, with cooked potatoes or other vegetables are used only to give variety. Let all be done that can be to keep up the appetite. A few hours’ fast after first being put in their quarters will give a good send-off for their first meal, which should not be more than they will eat up clean. Let the morning meal be given as early as possible, then feed at intervals of four hours through the day,giving the last one late at night. A little salt and pepper may be used, also charcoal. Milk may be given as a drink or used in mixing the different meals. If care has been used in the feeding so that fat has been laid on with a good degree of success, the fowl may as well be killed and marketed as soon as it gets off its feed or when it begins to fall off. Unless turkeys are ‘‘crammed” they should be fat- tened while allowed free range. Shut up those that are to be held for breeding purposes or for an aftercrop and feed the fattening ones at intervals of four hours through the day all they will eat upclean. Leave no food by them. HOW, WHEN AND WHAT TO FEED. Birds in their wild state get their food slowly and a little atatime. It is well that fowls get their food the same way. It is not a good plan to have food before them all the while; so, excepting soft food, which may be given in troughs, it is best to scatter their grain rations among straw, leaves or in light soil and place their animal and green food ration where they can pick at them and gather what they want at leisure and with exercise. The V-shaped trough made of six-inch fencing is all the utensil we consider necessary to feed from; if of dressed lumber it can be more readily kept clean. As to when to feed, breeders differ. Some claim that adult fowls should be fed three times daily; others hold that twice a day isenough. Both classes admit that the last feed 92 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. should be just before roosting time. Young chickens ought to be fed at intervals of two hours at first. The period be- tween feedings may be lengthened till they are three months old, when three times are enough and if twice is enough for adults it is about time to break the ‘‘chicks’’ to that course too. If fed three times there is more danger of overfeeding than when fed twice, especially if on the range; and over- feeding is really more disastrous than underfeeding, as there is usually a chance to more or less supplement the short.feed. To feed just the right amount is more important than the number of times at which it should be given. The ‘what’? to feed has already been discussed’ and answered. Feed a variety—grain, green food and animal food. Feed some of eachevery day. Because this is aceom. plished where the small flock is kept and given: the table scraps accounts for so many ‘“‘best egg records’ being made by a small number of hens. Multiplied by hundreds, in theory the results should be increased just as many fold. In most cases this does not prove true, because the same variety iS not maintained, though the same care otherwise is given. As has already been stated, there is one other element be- sides ‘‘variety’’ entering the answer to what shall be fed— and that is cost of rations. Feed variety at the least outlay, quality considered. These two elements open up a wide range for the ingenuity, thought and judgment of the feeaer, CHAPTER III. DRESSING AND SHIPPING POULTRY. :. Poultry should be kept without food or water twenty- four hours before killing for market; full crops injure the appearance and are liable to sour, and when this occurs, cor- respondingly lower prices must be accepted than obtainable for choice stock. Never kill poultry by wringing the neck. The demands of various markets vary alittle in the man- ner of dressing poultry, and in preparing it for market, the custom of the. market to -which one is to ship should be followed. : CHICKENS FOR CHICAGO. Kill by bleeding in the mouth or opening the veins of the neck; hang by the feet until properly bled. This is best done as recomménded in directions for dressing capons. Leave head and feet on; do not remove intestines nor crop. Scalded chickens sell best to home trade, and dry picked best to ship- pers, so that either manner of dressing will do if properly. done. For scalding chickens the water should be as near the boiling point as possible, without boiling; pick the legs dry before scalding; hold the fowl by the head and legs and immerse and lift up and down three times (if the head is im- mersed it turns the color of the comb and. gives the eyes a shrunken appearance, which leads buyers to think the fowl has been sick); the feathers and pin-feathers should then be removed immediately, very cleanly and without breaking the skin; then ‘‘plump”’ by dipping ten seconds in water, nearly or quite boiling hot, then immediately into cold water; hang in a cool place until the animal heat is entirely out of the body. Todry pick chickens properly, the work should be done while the chickefis are bleeding; do not wait and let the bodies get cold. Dry picking is much more easily done while 94 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. the bodies are warm. Be careful and do not break or tear the skin. TURKEYS FOR CHICAGU. Observe the same directions as are given for preparing chickens, but always dry pick. Dry picked turkeys always sell best and command better prices than scalded lots, as the appearance is brighter and more attractive. Endeavor to market all old and heavy gobblers before January 1, as after the holidays the demand is for small fat hen turkeys only, old toms being sold at a discount to canners. DUCKS AND GEESE FOR CHICAGO should be scalded in water of the temperature as for other kinds of poultry, but it requires more time for the water to penetrate and loosen the feathers. Some parties advise after scalding, to wrap them in a blanket for the purpose of steam- ing, but they must not be left in this condition long enough to cook the flesh. Two or three minutes is the time recom- mended. Do not undertake to dry pick geese and ducks just before killing for the sake of saving the feathers, as it causes the skin to be very much inflamed, and is a great injury to the sale. Do not pick the feathers off the head; leave the feathers on for two or three inches on the neck. Do not singe the bodies to remove down or hair, as the heat from the flames will give them an oily and unsightly appearance. After they are picked clean they should be held in scalding water about ten seconds for the purpose of plumping, and then rinsed off in clean cold water. Fat, heavy stock is always preferred. CAPONS FOR CHICAGO. Capons are dressed in a manner peculiar to themselves. When the dressing-place is selected, drive two spikes about a foot apart in a beam overhead. Then make two loops of strong string, each long enough to hold one leg of the capon, and when hung from the nails above let the bird hang low enough to make picking handy. Have a weight of two or three pounds with a hook attached. When the bird is killed fasten the hook into his lower jaw’to hold him steady while picking. DRESSING AND SHIPPING. 95 When you are ready to kill your capon, catch him, and if his feet are soiled wash them, then suspend him by the two legs from the nooses. Take hold of his head, and with a small sharp knife cut the vein at back of throat, through the mouth. Never do this from the outside. As soon as you cut the vein, run point of knife through the roof of mouth into the brain. As soon as the knife enters the brain, the bird loses all sense of feeling. Begin plucking at once. Wher the plucking begins is when the ‘‘dress’’ of the capon begins to show itself. The feathers are left on the wing up to the second joint. The head and hackle feathers, also those on the legs half way up the drum-sticks, with all the tail-feathers, including those a little way up the back, and the long ones on the hips close to the tail, are left on. This manner of dressing, with the peculiar looking head, are the distinguishing features of capons, which enable them to be readily identified among a host of other fowls. The plumage being heavier than that of cockerels, and the small- ness of the comb and wattles, which stopped growing as soon as caponizing was performed, prevents the palming off of any cockerels as capons by evil-disposed persons, even should the style of dressing be copied. Care should be taken that the capon is not torn in pluck- ing; when this is completed wash the head and mouth well with cold water, being careful to remove all blood. When cool they are ready to pack for shipping—for some markets they must be drawn before packing. When capons are to be drawn, have a table the right height to work at handily, and on it have a frame made like a small box with the cover and two ends knocked out. Take the weight off, and put the bird, back down, in the frame. Cut carefully around the vent and pull out the intestines. When the end of the intestine is reached, put your fingers up in the fowl and break it off, leaving everything else in. There will be considerable fat around the opening made; this should be slightly turned outward; it will soon cool, become hard, and add to the rich appearance of the bird. Now hang the bird in a clean cool place till thoroughly cold. When cold they are ready to pack. Haye new boxes of a 96 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. proper size for the number you wish to ship, but do not have the packages averly large; line them with clean, plain white or manilla paper, and pack the birds in solid, back up, but do not bruise them. Put paper over them, nail on the cover, and mark as directed under PACKING AND SHIPPING. Before packing and shipping, poultry should be thor- oughly dry and cold, but not frozen; the animal heat should be entirely out of the body; pack snugly in boxes or barrels, but use great care to avoid bruising the flesh or breaking any bones; boxes holding 100 to 200 pounds are preferable} straighten out the body and legs, so that they will not arrive very much bent and twisted out of shape; fill the packages as full as possible to prevent moving about on the way; barrels auswer better for chickens and duciss than for turkeys or geese; weigh the package before packing; when convenient, avoid putting more than one kind in a package; if more than one kind in a package, mark kind and weight of each descrip- tion on the package; if but one kind in the package mark in plain figures on the cover the number and kind of birds within, the total weight of package and net weight; mark shipping directions, your name and address, plainly on the cover. They are then ready for transporting. Mark name and address of firm to which they are to go plainly on cover, aud send full advice and invoice by first mail after the goods are shipped. THANKSGIVING DAY POULTRY. For a week previous to Thanksgiving Day a large trade is expected in turkeys in Chicago, and a few points in regard to this special week may not be amiss right here. In the first place take special care and ship only choice, large, well- fatted turkeys, weighing not less than ten pounds, and from that upwards. Smail, light weights sell best around Christ- mas and after New Years. What merchants particularly re- quest is not to ship scalawag stock, as it is not wanted, and only very low prices will move it, and’there is liable to be more or less dissatisfaction. Do not kill poor, thin turkeys. It will pay to hold such stock back until it DRESSING AND SHIPPING. 97 acquires more flesh. Turkeys, too, should be dry picked; they have a better appearance and sell better for shipping purposes than scalded. In the second place, do not wait till a day or two before Thanksgiving Day before sending in the stock, expecting that the time to sell turkeys to the best advantage. Years of experience have taught merchants here that a week, even ten days, before Thanksgiving Day is very often the best time to have turkeys on the market, for the reason that ship- pers receive orders from all quarters and this stock must be bought and shipped in time to reach destination at least a day or two before Thanksgiving Day. This competition among shippers generally results in developing a strong market and high prices, while on Thanksgiving Day there is only the home demand to depend on, and the supply then in- variably exceeds the demand. Therefore, it is advisable to ship right along, and not have poultry intended for Thanks- giving Day trade come later than the Monday previous. Of course, should the weather be mild, exceptions should be taken to the above instructions, but if the weather is cold and favorable, ship right along. Remember, however, keep small, thin turkeys at home. Usually but few chickens are wanted, and better let some one else take the chances on shipping them, as they are usually a drug on Thanksgiving Daz. Ducks sell only moderately, and geese very slow. POULTRY FOR BOSTON. Boston is a good market for poultry that has been prop- erly prepared. If shippers desire to realize full market prices for their consignments, they must see to it that their poultry is of the quality and ih the condition to suit the best class of trade. The style of dressing for the Boston market differs from the Chicago style in that all poultry should be killed by bleeding in the neck, and picked while the body is warm; in no case should it be scalded; wet-picked poultry is not wanted in the Boston market, and will not sell for what it is really worth. Assoon asthe poultry is picked, take off the head at the 98 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. throat, strip the blood out of the neck, peel back the skin a little, remove a portion of the neck bone, then just before packing, except in warm weather, draw the skin over the end and tie and trim neatly. Draw the intestines, making the incision as small as possible, and leave the gizzard, heart and liver in. Pull out the wing and tail feathers clean. Undrawn poultry can be sold to a limited extent when there is no other to be had, provided there is no food in the crop or entrails, but as a rule it has to go at very low prices. GAME FOR BOSTON. Grouse and quail should be carefully wrapped in paper and packed in small boxes or barrels, with the heads down. Never in any case should the entrails be removed. Mark the number of grouse or dozen of quail on each package. PACKING FOR BOSTON. After the poultry is entirely cold sort it carefully, and have the No. 1 stock of uniform quality. Pack the No: 2 stock in separate packages. If you have any old tom turkeys put theminaseparate package or with the No. 2 stock. Line the boxes with clean paper; never use straw in packing, and never wrap the birds in paper. Pack as closely as possible backs upward, legs out straight, and see that the boxes are so full that when the covers are nailed on, there can be no possibility of the contents shifting about. Boxes are the best packages, and should contain from 100 to 200 pounds. The directions for marking and shipping given under Packing and Shipping, page 96, are applicable to the Boston market. ~ THE LAW. The following law regulating the sale of dressed poultry in Massachusetts explains the why for some of the require- ments of the Boston market, and indicates the trouble or ex- pense a shipper causes his commission man by sending poul- try that is not dressed ‘‘according to law:”’ Szc. 1. No poultry, except it be alive, shall be sold or exposed for sale until it has been properly dressed, by the removal of the crop and entrails when containing food. Sro. 2. Whoever knowingly sells or exposes for sale poultry DRESSING AND SHIPPING. 99 contrary to the provisions of Sec. 1 of this act, shall be punished by a fine of not less than five nor more than fifty dollars for each offense. The boards of health in the several cities and towns shall cause the provisions of this act to be enforced in their re- spective cities and towns. POULTRY FOR PHILADELPHIA should be fat. Do not send any poor birds there, no matter how high poultry is selling. Kill and dress as for the Chi- cago market, except both turkeys and chickens should al- ways be dry picked. To get the animal heat out hang up, heads down, for twelve or fifteen hours, or put in ice water long enough to make thoroughly cold, and then hang up till perfectly dry. Ducks and geese should be full feathered before killing. Turkeys and chickens that are very fat and handsome will command a little higher price. Best markets for poultry are Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years. Care should be taken that poultry shipped for these special days arrive in sufficient time before the date to meet the best sale. Poultry that arrives too late generally meets a poor market. Turkeys will sell on either of these occasions, especially fat hens and young téms. After the holidays, small turkeys have the preference. Geese sell at Christmas, and fancy ducks sell well at any time. Ship capons in cold weather only. We again say, use great care in selecting, dressing and packing. A handsome appearance is in all cases worth one to two cents per pound in selling. There is nearly always a large supply of poultry during Thanksgiving week, and buy- ers having knowledge of the fact naturally pick out the best stock to the neglect of poorly dressed, which must then be sacrificed for what it will bring, and the commission men can assure you it is npt pleasant to have shipments-of that kind. PACKING FOR PHILADELPHIA. The general directions for packing, marking and ship- ping apply to poultry designed for Philadelphia. We mention the following as specially applicable to that market: For turkeys and geese, boxes are best, although large barrels may be used by experienced packers. Use clean pack- 100_ LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY. BOOK. ages, and paper or clean, dry straw free from dust. Placea layer of clean straw at the bottom, then alternate layers of poultry and brown paper or. good, clean straw; stow each bird snugly, back upward, legs out straight, and fill the package so full that the cover will draw down tight and snug upon the contents to prevent shifting and shucking while in transit. Barrels are better for chickens and ducks, and these may be assorted and tied up in pairs. GAME FOR PHILADELPHIA. Prairie chickens and quails should be packed in boxes with holes in them; the former ten to twenty pairs in each, and the latter ten to twelve dozen. Neither should be drawn; the feathers should be smoothed down; pack with breasts up. Rabbits and hares should have the entrails re- moved. Genuine wild turkeys bring good prices at the holi- days, and should have the feathers left on. Whole deer should have the liver and lungs removed, or allowance must be made in the weight for them. Saddles should be sewed in clean cloth in order to keep them in good order. ss POULTRY FOR NEW YORK. Poultry of any description for this market may be scalded or dry picked, but it sells quicker dry picked. It must be undrawn and heads and feet on. POULTRY FOR MINNEAPOLIS. Poultry for Minneapolis, Minn., may be dressed, packed and shipped as for the Chicago market, except that chickens and fowls should have their heads cut off after plucking, leaving the necks of the birds as long as possible. If fowls are well fatted, the trade does not object to taking them if scalded, at same value as dry picked. Turkeys should be dry picked. No objections to tip of wing feathers being left on the birds. The trade has been educated gradually to take undrawn stock, and it is now preferable to drawn stock. POULTRY FOR ST. LOUIS, MO., must be drawn; heads and feet off. Capons are not yet received at this market. Game should also be drawn in warm weather, undrawn in cold. Rabbits drawn all seasons. DRESSING AND SHIPPING. 101 PACKING BROILERS FOR MARKET. Before packing broilers in barrels for shipment to market precaution to remove all animal heat must be taken. It may be done by placing them in ice water after they are picked, allowing them to remain init ten or twelve hours, then re- “moving and hanging up by the feet in a cool place to drain. After this wipe them dry with a clean towel, and put a layer of broilers in the barrel, then a layer of ice, broken in pieces the size of a turkey’s egg, covering the broilers well with the ice, followed by alternate layers of broilers and ice until the barrel is full, which should be covered with clean muslin and a thickness of bagging. Do not begin to pack until you are nearly ready to ship, and have all arrangements made in ad- vance with your merchant.- Ship by express and avoid all delays. Never ship so as to reach the market on Saturday, as a portion of the stock may have to remain over Sunday before being sold, which adds to the expense of handling. Besides, there is often a shrinkage in value on account of being held over. SHIPPING LIVE POULTRY. There are a few general points in regard to shipping live poultry that are applicable to all markets: 1. Shippers should see that the coops are in good condi- tion before using, so that they are not liable to come apart in transit, as they are roughly handled sometimes. 2. The coops should also be high enough to allow what- ever kind of poultry is shipped, room enough to stand up. Low coops should not be used, as it is not only cruel, but a great deal of poultry is lost every year by suffocation. Coops should not be overcrowded. 3. In shipping hens and roosters they should be kept separate. Nothing depreciates the value of a fine coop of hens as much as to have a number of old cocks among them. Shippers often wonder why they do not get the highest mar- ket price for their stock; in most cases this is the reason. Good stock always commands a quick sale at best prices. 4. Poultry should be shipped so as to arrive on the mar- ket from Tuesday to Friday. Receipts generally increase 102 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. toward the end of the week, and there is enough carried-over stock on hand Saturday to supply the demand. Merchants, rather than carry stock over Sunday, will sell at a sacrifice, as the stock, when in coops, loses considerable in weight by shrinkage, and does not appear fresh and bright. Besides, Monday is usually a poor day to sell poultry. SHIPPING BREEDING POULTRY. Some poultry breeders ship the fowls which they sell, in any box that comes handy. Sometimes these boxes are just right in size, sometimes they are too small; usually they are altogether too large, and the unlucky buyer pays express on a lot of unnecessary lumber. Do not use old boxes. Have regular shipping coops. These coops should be strong, light, neat and attractive, and large enough for the fowl or fowls, as the case may be, to sit or stand side by side comfortably, but no larger. For the bottoms and the ends of the coops, use half-inch boards; on the sides, at the bottom, nail a strip of board about six inches wide, and another six-inch strip across the top for marking. Make the rest of top and sides of lath. Cover the bottom with cut straw, sawdust, or other light litter. Tack a tin cup inzide for water, and fix a place for feed. For long distances make a ‘‘hopper’’ so that the feed will work out at the bottom as fast as consumed by the fowls. Corn is the best food. Fasten to the coop a request to train hands to supply water. If such coops were used there would be less complaint about the express charges. CHAPTER IV. DISEASES OF POULTRY. ‘As nearly all diseases of poultry are caused by cold, wet, want of cleanliness or improper feeding, it is much easier and cheaper to guard against disease than to cure it after it once gets into a flock. It is often hard to locate the trouble or determine the ailment. A hen is moping about with feath- ers rough, comb dark, appetite poor or gone. The hen is sick, but all of the symptoms may come from any one of a number of causes, and one is at a loss to know what the real cause is. In the case of common fowls we believe the cheap- est remedy—we know it is the most effectual—is to use the hatchet at once. If the quarters are not dry and clean, and the proper food and drink have not been given, these should at once be remedied and the ‘‘run’’ of the disease cut short- If the requirements for health have been met we may be pretty sure that the whole flock is better off with the sick bird out of the way. If pure air is furnished poultry, with no draft, wholesome food supplied, and the quarters are clean and dry, the cases of death from sickness will be very rare. In case of accident or where valuable birds are ill it may be advisable to employ remedies. In case the disease is the result of neglect it is well to use the means that will the soonest get the bad effects of the neglect out of our flocks, so we name some of the diseases poultry are subject to, with preventives and remedies. Have a pen or room, with a smallrun, apart from the flock, in which sick fowls may be placed while treated. Always disinfect after the death or removal of a fowl that has had a contagious disease. Have, as hospital stores, cas- tor oil, coal oil, sweet oil, carbonate of soda, carbolic acid, 104 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. charcoal, Douglass Mixture, pulverized chlorate of potash, roup pills, sulphur, and tonic powders. ABORTION. Sometimes hens when driven violently about drop sud- denly either a perfect or a softegg and afterwards mope about as if very ill. In such cases, which are not to. be eonfounded with merely laying soft-shelled eggs, the hen should be put into the pen; have it darkened. A little carbonate of soda may be put in the drinking water; the food should be soft and given sparingly. This treatment should continue « few days unless the patient recovers sooner. Abortion has in rare cases been caused by ergot on the grass runs. In such cases the cause must be removed. BLACK-ROT. The usual causes are improper food and filth. The first symptom is usually blackening of the comb. This is followed by swelling in the legs and feet accompanied with gradual wasting away. Treatment to be of any use must be given in the early stages. First give a dose of calomel or castor oil. Follow this with Douglass Mixture or any other simple tonic treatment with warm and nourishing diet. Take better care of those that are left. BRONCHITIS. Frequent coughing distinguishes this disease from a sim- ple cold in the head. Remove the fowl to the pen, which should be moderately warm. Add just enough sulphuric and nitric acid and white sugar to the water to make the whole slightly sweet and acid, orgive roup pills. A little eay- enne or ginger may be added to the feed with advantage. BUMBLE-FOOT is acorn or abscess on the bottom of the foot. If it seems constitutional with some breeds, notice if it is not the large ones and if the afflicted birds have not been compelled to roost upon narrow, ill-shaped perches or to jump from high ones to a hard floor. These are most often the causes. Occa- sionally a case is so far advanced that a cure is impossible but generally if taken in good time a daily application of lunar caustic or painting with the tincture of iodine will DISEASES. 105 effect a cure. In cases where the tumor is full of pus or in the form of an abscess it must be lanced and the matter pressed out, the part fomented with warm water and after a day or two the caustic applied. If the tumor is hard make the incision the shape of across and squeeze out the matter. During treatment great gain will be made if the bird is compelled to “‘roost’’ on the floor covered with litter of straw or leaves. To prevent bumble-foot provide flat perches close to floor or with an approach formed by a ladder. CATARRH OR COLD IN THE HEAD. A common cold shows itself by more or less discharge from the eyes and nostrils. It is not dangerous, but if ne- glected may run into roup. Remove to a warm place. Give three drops mother tincture aconite in half a pint of drink- ing water. Feed moderately on soft food, mixed warm and seasoned with No. 1 mixture, given on page 123. If no bet- ter, or if worse in a few days, treat as in roup. CONSUMPTION. Damp or cold, want of light, or constitutional debility are the causes. When the cough of bronchitis becomes chronic, with wasting away and loss of strength, this disease may be suspected. We know of no cure. When danger is suspected, a tonic may be given as advised for debility, with hope that the disease may be warded off, yet we should dis- like very much to breed from a suspected bird, and should use the hatchet. CROP, SOFT OR SWELLED. -In these cases the crop is distended, but the contents are soft or fluid. The cause is supposed to be excessive drinking after prolonged thirst, which causes the inner coats of the crop to lose their ‘‘tone.”” They are unable to contract properly on the food and the crop remains distended, even with air. Where taken in hand soon after the attack it can usually be mastered. Put the bird by itself and feed three times daily with a small quantity of soft food thoroughly cooked. Allow it to drink moderately after each meal only, water made slightly acid with nitric acid. Do not leave the fountain in the pen. Season the food with some such mix- 106 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. ture as No. 4, page 123. Chopped onions or garlic will be the best green food; in fact, they of themselves have a reme- dial effect. : DIARRHEA may be caused by any sudden change in the diet, or even of the weather. If the looseness is observed early it can usual- ly be checked at once by giving a meal or two of boiled rice, sprinkled over with finely powdered chalk. If this does not effect a cure, six drops of camphor may be given three times daily. Restrict the diet to boiled rice and a little cut grass, daily. In very severe cases give half a grain of opium night and morning ina soft pill. When the patients are chicks keep them warm and give each chicka grain of pulverized ginger in the food once a day, and put a teaspoonful of alum in each quart of drinking water. DYSENTERY is diarrhea developed to the stage that the evacuations are mingled with blood. It is seldom cured. Good results have been obtained by giving twice a day five drops of laudanum. DISEASES OF DUCKS. Ducks are not as subject to disease as hens, and are en- tirely free from lice and body parasites. Yet cleanliness, plenty of pure air and water increase egg production, pro- mote growth and improve the quality of ducklings. The building should be dry, clean and sweet but not too warm nor subject to too great range in temperature. If the food is healthy and nutritious the greater the variety the better. Death from Insects.—Many ducklings when allowed free range during warm weather die from devouring injurious in- sects. Bees, wasps, hornets and bugs of all descriptions are eagerly swallowed alive, and the ducklings often pay the. penalty with their lives. To prevent this loss always con- fine ducklings, even when designed for breeding purposes, till they are six weeks old, after which they may be allowed to range. Diarrhea.—Young ducklings sometimes have diarrhea. It is caused more by overheating brooders and the exhausted condition of the mother bird than from improper food. It is DISEASES. 107 usually prevalent during warm weather. Do not overfeed or overheat ducklings. The remedy: Feed bread or cracker crumbs, moistened with boiled milk, into which a little pow- dered chalk has been dusted. Enlarged or Abnormal Liver is the most dangerous dis- ease to which young ducks are subject. It is seldom preva- lent except during warm weather, and usually in ducklings from two to six weeks old. The livers ot the little fellows often enlarge so as to force up their backs—a deformity which clings to them through life. It is caused by a com- plete stagnation of the digestive organs, and often appears after a heavy rain or long wet spell, which makes the yards wet, sloppy and offensive. The ducklings will, while in con- stant contact with this mud, absorb more or less of it, clog- ging the digestive organs, and deranging their appetites. Remedy: ~“Remove the ducklings toa dry, shady place, feed sparingly and give a little Douglass Mixture in the drink- ing water. Sore Eyes.—Ducklings are sometimes troubled with sore eyes. The adjacent parts become inflamed, the head slightly swelled. The cause is filthy quarters or feeding sloppy food. The feathers around the eyes become filled with the food and the dust adheres tothem. This naturally inflames the eyes. Remedy: Wash thoroughly clean with warm water and bathe the eyes with a little sweet oil. Chills.—Before fully feathered, ducklings are liable to chills if allowed free access to streams or ponds, or to wad- dle about in cold, wet grass. Treat chilled ducklings as you would chilled chicks. An Unnamed Disease.—From the Poultry Keeper we take the following: ‘‘My ducks act as though they were broken down in the back. They can use their feet and legs, but can- not walk. Put them on their feet and they will fall over. Will eat well for three or four days, then their appetite fails, and they finally stop eating altogether, and seem to dry up. Have nothing left but bones and feathers. They live for ten or twelvedays. They give a coarse, croaking noise when you go near them, something like a young bullfrog. Their 108 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. digestive organs seem to be good, as their droppings are the same as the well ones, as far as I can see.”’ The editor answers: ‘There are three probable causes. Damp sleeping quarters, ducks very fat, and injury by the drake’s attentions. There are many sources for difficulty, however, such as the eating of some poisonous weed, or injurious substance, the depredations of parasites, etc. The principal cause of sickness among ducks, however, is damp sleeping places.”’ ERUPTIONS OR WHITE COMB often result when green food is not supplied in abun" dance. There will bea whitish scurf or dandruff which if not checked extends down the neck, causing a loss of feathers as far as it goes. Fowls kept in small or dirty yards may acquire a scurfy skin of the same nature. The treatment is similar in both cases. Green food must be supplied. and cleanliness attended to. Dress the affected parts with tar and sulphur ointment, or with an ointment made by mixing a quarter ounce of turmeric powder with an ounce of cocoa- nut oil. This last is a specific in true ‘‘white comb.’’ As in- ternal treatment give a dose of castor oil to commence with, follow with a teaspoonful of powdered sulphur daily in the food for ten days. Should the sulphur cause irritation before a cure is effected, as will be indicated by the fowl constantly scratching its head, the parts may be dressed for a few days with sweet oil to which a few drops of carbolic acid have been added. FROST-BITE. The best treatment for frost-bitten combs or wattles is to thaw out with applications of snow or cold water. After- wards apply glycerine or sweet oil daily. Prevention is bet- ter, and in most cases may be accomplished by oiling the combs and wattles with a sponge or soft flannel every morn- ing. This not only protects the tissues, but prevents water adhering to and freezing upon the wattles when the fowls drink. No one will suppose that a little oil is to take the place of comfortable quarters, but in case of a sudden severe spell the oiling precaution will save pain and disfigurement to an innocent bird. Another thing, it is claimed a hen will DISEASES. 109 not lay during the time a frost-bite is healing. A fowl with frozen feet should be killed. If done before the feet thaw out and the fowl becomes feverish, it will be all right for table use. GAPES afflict chicks, and are caused by small, thread-like worms that get into the windpipe and choke the chicks. Gapes are seldom found where the chicks are on high, dry ground, have good food, pure water, and strict cleanliness about the coops and runs. Place their feed upon clean boards. The addition of Douglass Mixture to their drink is an added pre- ventive. When once a brood is infected there are several ways of getting rid of the pests. One is to take each chick, and with a horse hair doubled so as to form a loop, swab out its throat. Run the loop down the throat and give it a twist before re- moving it. Continue this till all the worms are removed. Some consider the fumes of burning carbolic acid the best remedy. Fix a box or coop so the chicks can be shut in the upper half, then put a few drops of the acid on a red-hot shovel and place it in the lower part, under the birds. Keep the chicks in the smoke till they are nearly suffocated, but keep a lookout that you do not quite choke the life out of them. There are some who use sulphur in the same way with good success. Another good remedy is to place the chicks in a close box, cover it over with cheese-cloth, and over this put air- slaked lime. Shake a little, sothe fine lime will sift down among the chicks, taking care not to overdo the matter and smother them. If taken in hand as soon as the gasping is noticed, a small bit of camphor gum or two drops of turpentine mixed in soft food and given as a pill will generally effect a cure. If these do not, increase the dose. Other remedies are: putting good-sized lumps of camphor in the drinking water; mixing garlic or onions freely in their food, or by mixing powdered asafetida and powdered gentian with it. Chicks that die from the gapes should be burned or 110 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. buried deep with plenty of quicklime. Move the coops to fresh ground, and spade the old places up and scatter quick- lime freely about the whole premises where the sick or dead have been. LEG WEAKNESS. True leg weakness, the kind that at first affects the legs only, is confined almost wholly to the large breeds and is caused by rapid growth, which increases the weight out of proportion to the strength of the legs. The tendency to this form of the disease may be lessened by feeding bone-forming food. The trouble usually begins when the chicks are be- tween four and five months old. The first symptom of leg weakness is a shaking or trembling of the legs when the chick stands or walks. Generally the appetite is good, even after the patient is unable to walk. Treatment, to be effectual, should be commenced as soon as the first symptom of weakness is seen, for, after a chick once gets down upon its hocks, it is almost impossible to get it up again. The first thing to be looked after is the food; if the feed has been mostly corn meal, change to shorts and whole wheat, and give a raw egg daily to every two patients. Give milk to drink and give a teaspoonful of bone meal each day to eachchick. Keep lime where it iseasy of access. For medicine,give half a teaspoonful of Douglass Mixture a day to each chick and twice a day give a half-grain pill of quinine. They should show signs of being better in a week; then give only one pill a day, and, as soon as shaking ceases, leave off the pilland the egg, but continue the bone meal three or four times a week. Let them have the Douglass Mixture for three or four weeks longer. Ifa week of steady treatment does not produce improvement, it is not advisable to fuss with them any longer. Use the hatchet. When leg weakness comes on half-grown chicks of the small breeds, give pills and Douglass Mixture as for the large breeds, till they brace up, then feed bone meal, lime and meat right along till carried to marketable age and condition, then market them. Do not keep for breeders. While fowls are being treated for leg weakness, keep them by themselves, but not in a close coop—they need ex- DISEASES. 111 ercise. To prevent leg weakness, breed from healthy stock, and feed bone meal. Leg weakness in old fowls is sometimes caused by too high feeding and too little exercise. The fowls get fat and heavy and cannot walk or stand steady. This form of weakness may sometimes be overcome by cutting down the feed and giving the Douglass Mixture, bone meal, and mak- ing the fowls scratch. But it really pays better to kill at once and use for the table any fowls that begin to show leg weakness because of overfeeding. Killed then they are per- fectly wholesome. Another form of leg weakness comes from injury to the hock joint, caused by jumping from high roosts. To prevent this, have low roosts. If it occurs before the roosts are made low, put the injured fowl in a well littered coop, without perches, and give victuals and drink, and nature will do the rest, if cared for when first lamed. Paralysis of the legs is different from other forms of leg weakness, and the best remedy is the hatchet. Gout may be told from leg weakness, as the legs and feet feel hot, are somewhat swelled and have a more or less in- flamed look. It is most common in the Asiatic breeds. Remove the bird to a dry, warm place and give a dose of calomel to open the bowels, after which a half-grain pill of colchicum should be given daily. Ifthe legs and joints are daily well rubbed with sweet oil they will be benefited. LICE, though not a disease, are generally classed as such, for a louse-afflicted fowl is as bad off as one that is diseased. It seems hard that fowls should be made to suffer so much in- convenience, and their owners so much loss, because of un- thrift through neglect to provide means whereby they may keep themselves free from lice. Cleanliness will doit. When lice have got a foothold in a flock or their quarters, the real work begins, for they must be dislodged or health and profit are gone. The ways to dislodge them are very nearly as various as the parties who find their flocks infested. We give a few of those most commonly used. The Symptoms of Lice are various. Bowel disease in 112 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. summer is one; when chicks are sleepy or drowsy, look out for lice; when fowls refuse to eat, when they look puny or grow slowly; when they die suddenly; when there is a grad- ual failing or wasting away; when there is constant crying or loss of feathers, look out for lice. Even when houses are kept clean, large body lice may be found on chicks; these come from the adult fowls. A chick will never get these lice unless old fowls are near; that is why brooder chicks grow faster than those under hens. The large lice will kill ducks suddenly. They kill nearly all the young turkeys that die that are not killed by wet and damp. Whenever‘’you notice a sick fowl dusting itself look for lice. The Dust Bath.—If the house is kept clean, and a dust bath provided, the hens will drive the little mites away, but it is not easy to get rid of the large lice. Finely sifted coal ashes or dry dirt, especially road dust, is excellent. A little sulphur added to the dust bath is a help, as will be a little air-slaked lime. The poultry must have a dust bath, both in summer and winter. Causes of Lice are not many. Filth is the greatest cause. The mites will breed in the droppings. Rotten nest eggs will cause them. If an egg is broken in a nest and al- lowed to remain there, there will soon be multitudes of lice. The hen that is sitting breeds them by thousands. They are harbored in cracks and crevices everywhere. They leave their quarters at night and prey upon the fowls, but the large body lice never leave the birds; you have got to look for them and look carefully too. Although these large body lice never leave the fowls of their own accord to find harbor in the house, there should be provisions made for the hens dusting themselves. Also keep the house and surroundings clean and well saturated with kerosene oil. Having provided a dust bath, take each fowl by the legs and dust plenty of Persian insect powder (have it fresh) into the feathers and down. Then grease the heads, throats, legs and vents with a mixture made as follows: Lard, one teacupful; carbolic acid, one-half teaspoonful; crude petroleum, one teaspoonful; oil pennyroyal, one teaspoonful; kerosene, one teaspoonful. Mix well, and use only a few Grops on each place. DISEASES. 113 Never grease the body of a fowl or chick, nor use kero- sene undiluted. A drop of pure lard or oil may be put under the wings; this will kill any lice there. To get rid of Lice.—Clear everything out of the coop, burn the rubbish, whitewash the sides and roof, pour coal oil into the cracks and crevices. If the floor is of earth or cov- ered with earth, scrape off the top and carry it away out of the reach of the fowls, then sprinkle the floor with air- slaked lime or fresh earth. This done, fumigate the house with burning sulphur. This is done by putting the sulphur in an old kettle, setting fire to it and shutting the house up tight. If the perches and nest boxes are not too numerous or expensive it will be the cleanest thing to burn them and all other material removed from the buildings. Ifthey are not burned, take boiling hot soap-suds and give thema thorough scrubbing. When they are dry and replaced in the building wet them with coal oil. The old nest material should not be used; the new should be sprinkled with snuff, carbolic powder or insect powder. Air the build.ng well before letting the fowlsin. Repeat the oiling of perches and nest hoxes once a week. Dust insect powder or Scotch snuff intothe feathers of the fowls. Give them a good dust bath of sifted coal ashes or road dust to which a liberal supply of sulphur has been added. Keep the house clean and white- wash at least twice a year. This fight persisted in will get the start of the lice. Sassafras Oil for Lice.—J. W. Crise writes to the Poultry Keeper: ‘‘I find sassafras oil used on the roost is more effective than anything I’ve ever tried. One ounce is sufficient for 100 fowls. This amount put on the roosts will last a long time, and it is said that lice will not stay where it is used, and I know this is true. Sassafras poles for perches would be pref- erable if convenient.”’ Tansy as a Remedy.—E. E. Kennicott writes: ‘There has been considerable talk in the Poultry Keeper ia regard to the various ways of exterminating vermin in the poultry house and from the fowls, and I will give my way, which is simple and has always proved successful with me. ~ Gather 114 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. tansy in the fall, and tack it up around the chicken house, under the roosts, in the bottom of the nests, and on the ground. This will drive away both the body lice and mites. Use lots of it. It is cheap and effectual.”’ Crude Petroleum.—H. J. Fisher gives this for a remedy: Procure crude petroleum, and a whitewash brush; go to work and apply the oil plentifully to the inside of the coop, nest and perches. No chicken lice will apply, and those in the vicinity will turn up their toes. Very lousy birds will require a greasing with the oil. Tar paper, sulphur, ete., do not compare with the petroleum. Again, another use of petroleum: For each bird in the flock add from five to ten drops of petroleum to bran mash, feed once or twice daily, and chicken cholera will, as the boys say, skipout. Crude petroleum can be had for from $1 to $1.50 per barrel near oil centers. Tobacco as aRemedy.—F. H. Putman says: I took two pounds of plug tobacco, soaked it thirty-six hours in three gallons of rain water, occasionally pressing it to obtain all the strength possible from the tobacco, and then turned the water off into a large pail, and with an old whitewash brush I covered the roosts and nest boxes thoroughly with the tobacco juice. I also sprinkled the nests, even under the sitting hens, and in twenty-four hours I could not finda single chicken louse on any old or young chickens that I ex- amined, and am confident it is a sure destroyer of chicken lice. I also had quite a large flock of young Pekin ducks, and was finding one or two dead in the coop each morning. Since using the tobacco I have not lost a single duck, so I think lice was the cause of their dying too. Bisulphide of Carbon.—A French writer says he drove the lice from his hen-house by tying a few smail bottles of bisulphide of carbon to the perches with the stoppers out, leaving the liquid to evaporate. The hens roost over the bottles and the vapor kills the lice. This is what he says: “The very next day after using it I was agreeably surprised to find that the enemy had left, leaving none but dead and dying behind, and on the following day not a single living insect was to be found, while my birds were sitting quietly DISEASES. 115 on the roosts enjoying an unwontedly peaceful repose. This jasted for twelve days, till the sulphide had evaporated. Twenty-four hours later a fresh invasion of lice put in an ap- pearance under the wings of the birds in the warmest por- tions of the house where there were nocurrents of air. I .re- plenished the supply of sulphide, and the next morning only a few of these were remaining. The next morning every trace of vermin had disappeared. Since that time I have personally made a great number of further trials with the sulphide with immediate and absolute success. I should recommend the sulphide of carbon to be put in small medi- cine vials hung about the pigeon-house or poultry roost. When it has about three parts evaporated the remainder will have acquired a yellowish tinge, and no longer act so completely as before, but if it be shaken up afresh it will suffice to keep the enemy at a distance.’ If this is used great care mub&t be taken not to have fire of any kind near the bisulphide, and it seems to us that such fumes strong enough to kill lice on a fowl would be hazard- ous to the life of the fow!. Furthermore, bisulphide of car- bon is heavier than air and sinks instead of rises. We can hardly see how-it can be of service as recommended. We give it here with these comments, that our readers may be posted should they see this remedy recommended. " CHOLERA is by all odds the most contagious and rapidly fatal of all poultry diseases. It attacks turkeys as well as fowls. It is pretty well settled that a microscopic érganism or germ, taken into the system through food and drink, causes all the trouble. This germ first affects the blood, then the liver, and throws the whole digestive apparatus out of order. Where the germs generate or are begotten is as yet unknown or at least not revealed to common poultry folk. There is quite a general impression in the air that filth is a good breeding place for these little enemies of poultry ‘life. There are cases where the quarters and runs are clean and cholera takes hold of the flock. Here the germs may have been brought in by neighboring poultry, or the feeding uten- 116 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. sils or watering vessels may be filthy. Even where the fowls roost in trees and the droppings are allowed to accumulate, the putrid nature of the mass is revealed when damp or wet comes, and cholera has been known to break out when no other cause could be given but this pile of corruption in the open air. . A. J. Hill, in his ‘‘Treatise on Chicken Cholera,’’ says he has sufficient evidence to warrant him in saying that the cause is local. Wherever the disease prevails, right there the cause exists; and there is the place where its cause was gen- erated, unless infectious matter had been introduced by dis- * eased fowls or otherwise. Symptoms.—The same writer describes the usual symp- toms thus: ‘The fowl has a dejected, sleepy and drooping appearance and does not plume itself; is very thirsty, gapes often and sometimes staggers and falls from weakness; comb and wattles lose their natural color, generally turning pale, but sometimes dark. There is diarrhea, with greenish dis- charge, or like sulphur and water, afterwards thin and frothy. Prostration follows, the crop fills with mucus and wind, the breathing is heavy and fast, the eyes close and in a few hours the fowls die.’’ There may be slight variations in the symptoms of different fowls, but the peculiar color of the discharge and their frequency are sure indications of the disease. Some fowls will live several days after diarrhea commences, others in apparent good health one day will be dead the next. > : Preventives.— Poultry breeders are divided in their opin- ions as to whether cholera is contagious or not. It is best to be on the safe side and assume that it is contagious, and act accordingly. It is certain that where cleanliness is rig- idly maintained and disinfectants are freely used, cholera may be almost, if not entirely, prevented; if introduced into such quarters by strange fowls, or from the premises of neighboring flocks, it can generally be soon eradicated. As an aid in keeping the flocks healthy, we repeat what we have already said in regard to cleanliness and care. Have dry runs, houses free from damp and well ventilated, without dratts, The yards and houses may be kept clean and sweet DISEASES. 117 by using the scraper (hoe or spade) and plenty of fresh soil, fine sand, sifted coal ashes or sawdust. Whitewash is a great preserver of freshness; it purifies the air, sweetens the premises, and gives a light and cheery aspect to the whole place. Use plenty of whitewash, and use twice or oftener each year. Do not feed lice, but feed your fowls wholesome food in variety. Use thrifty, vigorous stock for breeding purposes. Have a pen for sick fowls, and when you get new stock hold them in quarantine till they establish the right to be called healthy; then give them the privilege of the plate. Keep every fowl busy, and if any are too tired to work or are a little off their feed, reduce their ration, and for awhile give afew drops of Douglass Mixture or tincture of iron, daily, in their drink. Disinfectants.—When ‘there is any contagious disease among your flock, or in the neighborhood, disinfect your houses, runs and all places frequented by the poultry, at least once a day, until all danger is past. A good, cheap disinfectant is made by adding two ounces of carbolic acid to three quarts of water. Or dissolve three pounds of cop- peras in five gallons of water; then add half a pint of crude carbolic acid. These may be applied with a common sprin- kling can. Whitewash is a good disinfectant. Lime or ashes will help to sweeten ground that has been fouled by fowls roosting in trees above it... Remedy.—The surest, quickest way to get rid of cholera is to kill all the sick fowls and burn the remains, or else bury deep, having first covered them with quicklime; then clean up the quarters and burn the matter gathered. When you have got the quarters as clean as possible, close them up tight and put a pound of sulphur in anold kettle, pour on half a pint of aleohol, and have it where you can reach it from the door, set fire to it, close the door, and leave it to burn out. Do not have any fowls in the house during the burning. Wherever the sick fowls have left their droppings, wet the ground thoroughly with the copperas disinfectant, and scat- ter lime freely. Do this daily as long as the cholera remains upon the premises. Give the flock pulverized charcoal (table- 118 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. spoonful to pint of food) three or four times a week, and once in every two or three days add five drops of carbolic acid toa quart of water and use it to mix their food with; also, till after tbe cholera has disappeared, give Douglass Mixture daily in their drink. A Tested Cure.—A Kentucky subscriber writes me: I want to thank you for your answer to my request as to the trouble with my poultry and for the remedy. After I wrote you and before receiving your reply, I discovered another remedy for the cholera that played such havoc with my fowls. It was such an effective one I want your readers to have the benefit of it. It is as follows: Equal parts of saltpeter, black antimony and sulphur. Mix the powdered sulphur and black antimony thoroughly, say a teaspoonful of each, then mix this dry with the meal or bran whichever is intended for the feed; then dissolve the saltpeter in warm water enough to make the mass the usual consistehcy for feeding. A teaspoonful of each of the saltpeter, black antimony and sulphur is about the right proportion for a feed for ten hens. If the hens are too sick to eat put the feed in their mouths with the fingers, and see that it is passed down their throats. When I first tried this remedy there were two of my best hens to aJl appearances as dead as Hector, they were just breathing and that was all; didn’t expect to save them. They were given the remedy in the evening a little after dark; in the morning they were on their feet, and on the third day after were about as well as ever. I feed the mix- ture occasionally asa preventive. Have not lost a single fowl since commencing to feed it. Have no doubt that it is good for hogs also. OTHER REMEDIES. If you do not wish to try the hatchet remedy on the sick fowls separate them from the well fowls. Give the well ones the acid, pulverized charcoal and Douglass Mixture as recom- mended in ‘‘Remedy”’ above and try some of the following on the sick ones: Calomel and blue mass in two-grain doses may be given twice a day. Powdered chalk, powdered charcoal, gum camphor, DISEASES. 119 asafetida and pure carbolic acid, equal parts; mix together and give a teaspoonful in food twice a day to ten fowls. Half a level teaspoonful of hyphosulphate of soda in as much water as will dissolve it. Give once a day for three days. Dr. Dickie’s Remedy.—Fowls that are too sick to eat should have every four or five hours a pill made as follows: Blue mass sixty grains, pulverized camphor twenty-five grains, cayenne pepper thirty grains, pulverized rhubarb forty-eight grains, laudanum sixty drops. Mix and make into twenty pills. When they have had time to act, give half a teaspoonful of castor oil and ten drops of laudanum toeach. Let them drink scalded sour milk, with a gill of Douglass Mixture for every twenty-five head, a day. This treatment ought to change the character of the evacuations and make them darker and more solid. When this happens, and not be- fore, give them alum water or strong white oak bark tea to drink, and no other drink. This will tend to check the dis- charges. SOFT-SHELL EGGS are classed with diseases by most poultrymen. Of course, they are not the disease but the result of a disease, or a lack in the material furnished the hen. It used to be con- sidered that lack of lime was the fault, now the trouble is as- signed to overfatness, or a weakness of the egg-producing machinery. Some claim they care not how much lime, oyster shells or egg shells be given a hen, if she is too fat soft-shell eggs double-yolk eggs, infertile eggs—all depart- ures from the normal—will be the result. Those who claim that lime, furnished in the above forms, being insoluble, is of no use, hold that lime should be furnished in oats, wheat, barley, and especially in clover. It is undoubtedly true that a large portion of the good that oyster shells do poultry is the mechanical part they perform in the grinding operations of the gizzard, yet from careful experiments it is shown that there is a certain amount of direct good obtained by their use, and, where they can be obtained at a reasonable cost, it will pay to use them. See .“‘Oyster Shells for Laying Hens.” 120 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. ANAIMIC POULTRY. Prof. Woodroffe Hill, of England, says that in the nu- merous specimens of poultry submitted to him for investiga- tion as to the cause of death, he frequently finds it to be anwmia. The term anemia signifies poverty or deficiency of blood. In this disease a great dim- inution in the quantity of red globules or corpuscles takes place; from the normal condition of 130 per 1,000 of blood they are in advanced cases of anwmia reduced aslow as fifty per 1,000. The liquor sanguinis, or fluid in which the corpuscles are suspended, is deficient in albumen, and has generally an excess of saline matter. It is important to recognize the gravity and results of anemia, for I find amongst poultry people it is a condition very frequently passed over, and when otherwise, not very clearly understood; therefore I wish to make this article as plain as possible. It is neces- sary for the maintenance of health and strength that the food should not only be good and stitable, but properly as- similated after being partaken of—i. e., converted into nu- trition—and it will be easily seen that anything affecting the nutritive process must beinjurioustothe functional activity of the digestive and other organs. Thisis especially the case with anemic or poor blood, which fluid under such conditions not only deteriorates the power of the gastric and intestinal glands, but weakens the muscular action of the stomach proper, and its important secondary agent, the gizzard. It will be, therefore, understood that anemia plays a prominent part in the production of indigestion. If the reader will pause for a moment to consider the important part in the maintenance of life the red corpuscles of the blood play, remembering they are the agents by which the chemical changes occur in the body, their emission of carbonic acid gas and absorption of oxygen in the lungs, their ceaseless circulatory rounds conveying oxygen to every part of the system, aiding in the removal of effete matter, and constantly building up the body with nutritive elements, he will recognize at once, or should do so, the value of their mission, and the importance of maintaining their standard of strength. In anemia the center of circulation (the heart) DISEASES. 121 is of necessity weakened, and it is almost needless to say this great force pump requires a full and free supply of healthy blood to enable it to maintain its strength and perform its work properly. The power of contraction and dilation which the heart must continually exercise is strengthened or less- ened in accordance with the amount of material tre organ is supplied with, and to which it owes its machine-like regu- larity and muscular energy, and the feeble heart-beat of a poor anemic little chick very soon stops. Anorexia, or loss of appetite, as associated with anzmia, is the result of the weakened state of the digestive organs, the tone of which being lost, the sense of hunger becomes blunted, and the bird has consequently little or no inclination to feed. The Causes of anwmia are numerous and not difficult to find. Overcrowding, defective ventilation, stinted light, bad drainage, innutritious and insufficient food, are sever- ally conducive to anemia, and if the subject be of a weakly constitution they are the more so. Anzmia also follows debilitating disease and hemorrhage. Cellar-kept poultry or those in other dark habitations, soon become anemic. Note the bleached and colorless shoots, of a plant that has sprouted in a dark cellar and compare them with the shoots of a similar plant exposed to heaven’s light and breath, or observe the pallid countenance and languid step of an individual who is confined in a crowded, ill-ventilated work- shop throughout the day, as contrasted with one whose occupation gives him every chance of imbibing pure, or at any rate fresh air, and you have a true and daily illustration of the effect of these sanitary arrangements, which may be with equal force applied to poultry: under similar conditions. Indeed, fresh air and light are as essential to birds of the gallinaceous tribe, for the formation of good blood, as to man. Air must, to maintain health, be renewed not re-used. It is the oxygen which gives color to the blood... Stint the supply of this necessary element and you withdraw the col- oring matter and promote the pallid condition characteristic of anemia. Again, good nutritious food is just as necessary for the production of pure blood and healthy muscle. We may as well try and build a strong substantial house out of 122 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. bad and weak materials, as expect that blood derived from such a source, and under the circumstances enumerated, will make sound muscle. ; Symptoms.—Anzemic poultry generally exhibit considera- ble muscular prostration,with depression of spirits. The bird has a bloodless look, especially about the eyes. The comb is generally pallid, cold and inclined to lop over. The mouth is white, the tongue particularly so. The limbs are cold, and the thighs sometimes swollen. Theskinis unnaturally white and clammy. The bird very often squats or walks languidly about, as though life wasn’t worth living. A post-mortem examination reveals general pallor of the muscles and viscera. The tissues are flabby and watery-looking, the liver bleached, and the lungs of a grayish-white color. Anzemic birds are usually emaciated. The eggs (but few) are thinin shell, and pale in yolk. The excretions and secretions are scanty, the plumage lusterless. Indigestion and loss of appetite have already been alluded to. Anzmic poultry is not nutritious food or readily digested, any more than anzwmic veal—i. e., where the calf has been frequently bled to produce white meat after slaughter. Treatment.—To insure a successful issue the causes giving rise to anwmia must be promptly removed, and this should be followed by assisting nature in restoring the de- ficiency in the color and quality of the blood by those agents which form the necessary constituents of healthy blood. For the former a nutritious diet, with a free allowance of fresh air, sunlight, and ample run should be ordered. Vegetable and mineral tonics, especially the preparations of iron, and, if there be much emaciation, cod-liver oil should be pre- seribed for the latter. The phosphate of iron is extremely serviceable in ansmia, and when the latter is associated with indigestion I find the greatest benefit from steel and pepsine pilules. In advanced cases the inhalation of oxygen may be had recourse to. Much valuable poultry is lost yearly from anemia, and yet I know of no condition so easily avoided and remedied, which makes it all the more deplora- ble that the sacrifice and loss goes on unchecked. DISKASES. 123 TONIC POWDERS. No. 1. No. 2. Licorice, 2 oz. Cassia Bark, 1 oz. Ginger, 2 oz. : Ginger, 5 oz, Cayenne Pepper, 1 oz. Gentian, }4 oz. Anise Seed, 4 oz. Anise Seed, 14 oz. Pimento, 2 oz. Carbonate of Iron, 2 oz. Sulphate of Iron, 1 oz. Powder and mix. Powder and mix. No. 3. No. 4. Peruvian Bark, 2 oz. Casearilla Bark, 2 oz. Citrate of Iron, 1 oz. Anise Seed, ‘oz. Gentian, 1 oz. Pimento 1 oz. Pimento, 2 02. Moth Dust, 2 oz. Cayenne, 1 oz. Carbonate of Iron, 1 oz. Powder and mix. Powder and mix. No. 1 is especially recommended in case of sudden colds, No. 2 is an excellent tonic in wet or cold weather, or for young turkeys. No. 3 is helpful in overcoming the ill effects of the show pen No. 4 may be used when a continuous tonic is required, as when fitting birds for exhibition. This may be mixed with sugar, one part of the powder to three parts of refined sugar. This is relished by the birds. When using either of the tonics otherwise, enough should be added to soft food to give it a slight flavor of the tonic and no more, except in special cases, then give each bird what will lie on a dime. ROUP is the bane of the poultry yard, and if we except cholera there is no disease so troublesome or offensive. After it has run to a certain stage it is contagious. If neglected it is fatal. When roup gets into a flock their quarters should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected. Use a tablespoonful of ear volic acid to a quart of waterto disinfect. Sprinkle freely on floor and sides of building. Wash the perches, feed boxes and drinking vessels. Cause.—The chief cause of roup is a neglected cold. The cold may be from exposure to drafts, wet, damp roosting eo 124 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. places, or to too sudden a change from overheated houses to cooler quarters. Fowls that have been stimulated by pepper, or egg foods that are composed largely of pepper, and then exposed to wet and cold, will often catchea cold. A little pepper may bea good thing, but too much of even a good thing is bad. Prevention is better than cure, so the best plan is to guard against all the causes, then if the disease gets among the fowls in your neighborhood use carboliec acid, charcoal and Douglass Mixture as recommended to prevent cholera. If, after all efforts, the disease gets a foothold in your flock it will be of a milder type and more easily handled than if the quarters are damp and filthy, for notwithstanding that fowls sometimes get along amid filthy surroundings without roup, it is a fact that roup thrives and develops the most malignant formin damp and dirty quarters. Like diph- theria in the human family, till the disease appears in a lo- cality the filthy places and the clean are alike exempt, but after its appearance the most filthy surroundings give the best aid to its development. Symptoms.—The first symptoms of roup—hoarseness, sneezing, and a slight running at the nostrils—are the same as those of acommon cold. In the second stage of the dis- ease the discharge from the nostrils thickens and becomes very offensive, and the eyes and head are affected more or less. In the third and last stage the head swells, ulcers form in the mouth and throat, and sometimes around the eyes, the appetite fails, the comb turns black, and the fowl dies. When the roup first makes its appearance in a flock, while it is still in the first stage, is the time to handle it easily and surely. In the beginning the symptoms are identical with those of catarrh, but the discharge soon commences to thick- en and fill up the nostrils, the eyelids and face become swollen from the accumulation of mucus, which now gives out an offensive odor, air bubbles appear in the corners of the eyes and in the throat, and in a few days the bird, unless relieved, dies from suffocation. When the disease assumes this aggravated form, it becomes highly contagious; there- fore, no time should be lost, but the affected bird should be DISEASES. 125 removed from its companions, and thus prevent the commu- nication of the disease. Names.—The term roup covers a multitude of ills. It is known by different names,such as sore head, sore throat, in- flamed eyes, swelled head, cancer, catarrh, pustulated nos- trils, but in each and every case roup would cover the symp- toms, and the remedies employed for it would alleviate or cure them. : Remedy.—Disinfect the quarters by cleaning as thorough- ly as possible, then shut up tight, put a pound of sulphur in an old irou kettle, pour on a half a pint of alcohol, set it in the house where you can reach it from the door, hold your nose with one hand, set fire to the alcohol, shut the door and leave. Do this after the sick ones have been separated from the well ones. Give the sick ones a dessert-spoonful of castor oil at night, and for a week feed chiefly on cooked food, with daily doses of charcoal, Douglass Mixture and acid. The well ones may be given the charcoal and Douglass Mixture for a week also. If any of the sick ones have ulcers in the throat dust them twice a day with pulveriged chlorate of potash. If the fowls are so bad that the nostrils are clogged with matter, the head swells, eyes are closed and ulcers are in the throat, use the hatchet at once and burn or bury deep the “remains.” Another Remedy.—-Although many claim a sure cure for this disease, treatment of the sick ones is very unsatisfactory. Remove the sick ones and thoroughly clean and disinfect the chicken premises. Scatter lime and carbolic acid freely about the walls and floor of the house. Give a warm, dry place to stay. Rub the throat of sick ones with coal oil and camphor. Swab the throat with kerosene. The Hatchet Remedy will give the best satisfaction when the disease has reached the third stage. P. H. Jacobs gives the following treatment: As soon as hoarse breathing is noticed, and especially when the bird is suffering from severe hoarseness and seems to be in danger of choking, put it in a large box and set fire toa mixture composed of a tablespoonful each of pine tar and turpentine, with a pinch of sulphur and a few drops of carbolic acid, 126 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. Keep the bird in the box until nearly suffocated, when the breathing will at once become easier and the disease more readily submit to treatment. Burn someof the same ingredi- ents every night, in the poultry house, after the birds are on the roost. If there are many sick fowls place several of them in a large box, barrel or hogshead, and submit them to the fumes of the mixture together, or the whole flock may be so treatedjevery evening when shut upin the poultry house. It detaches the phlegm and membrane and causes the matter to be thrown off. Having done this for the croup form of roup, inject two drops, twice a day, in each nostril, of the follow- ing: Bromo-chloralum and water, equal parts. Injections for the Nostrils.—Should the bromo- chloralum fail to give relief, mix together a tablespoon- ful of kerosene oil, the same of warm lard, and add ten drops of carbolic acid. Inject two drops in each nostril once a day,using a small glass eye-syringe, or a sewing-machine oil- can. Another excellent injection is Labarraque’s solution of chlorinated soda, mixed with twice its quantity of water, using two or three drops, twice a day, in each nostril. Swelled Head and Sore Eyes.—When the eyes are sore, and closed, and the head swelled, bathe the eyes with a warm solution, once daily, made by dissolving a teaspoonful of boracic acid in a gill of water, using a soft sponge for that purpose. Once a day, also, anoint the head and eyes (closed) with ten drops carbolic acid in a tablespoonful of glycerine. The following is also recommended by some as a wash: It is to use eight grains sulphate of copper (blue vitriol) and six drops solution of carbolie acid for each fluid ounce of water. Apply this wash two or three times a day, by means of ua camel’s-hair pencil, to the face, taking care not to injure the sight by allowing it in the eyes; brush the inside of the mouth and throat, and inject it by means of a small syringe into the nostrils. As the disease abates reduce the frequency of the application and the strength of solution. A wash which may be used in place of the above, and in the same manner, and without fear of injury to the eyes, isthe solu- tion of chlorinated soda (Labarraque’s solution) diluted with four times its bulk of water. In this and all other diseases, DISEASES. 127 much is gained by taking the case in hand at the earliest stage. How to Treat.—After the disease becomes contagious, first thoroughly disinfect the entire premises, and use bromo- chloralum and dilute it one-half. Inject it up the nostrils once a day with a small syringe or a sewing-machine oil-can. Add sixty grains of bromide of potassium to each quart of .drinking water. Burn a mixture of wood tar, turpentine, sulphur and carbolic acid in the poultry house at night, after the fowls have gone on the roost, until they are nearly suffo- cated, and repeat every evening. Bathe the heads with warm water, adding ten drops of carbolic acid to each gill of water. Above all things, avoid cracks, crevices or drafts, especially from ventilators at the top. The head and throat may be greased once slightly (no more) with an ointment composed of lard, kerosene and turpentine, equal parts. For rattles and canker throat and mouth, use one ounce chlorate of potash in a pint bottle, sixty drops tincture iron, twenty drops carbolic acid and twenty grains bromide potash. Fill with water and give one-half teaspoonful night and morning. Tonics.—Give these in the soft feed, morning and night. Take one dram Peruvian bark, one dram gentian, twenty grains bromide potassium, ten grains pulverized copperas, one dram salt and ten grains red pepper. Give a teaspoonful in the soft food fur five fowls. An Alum Remedy.—Mrs. Johanna Hunter, Kansas, says: ‘“‘My chickens were dying of roup. I tried many things but all failed. I then put alum in the water that I gave them to drink, made it very strong for two weeks, and then have given it once a week. Ihave 200 hens; have got over eighty dozen eggs in the month of January; have lost but very few chickens since giving the alum.’’ The Canker Form is thus described by-a subscriber to Poultry Keeper: ‘‘The first thing I noticed was a sore on the outside of the face, a little back of the opening of the bill. In opening the mouth, I found one side covered with thick canker, and the whole side of the head is now sore, and blotches down the throat. Is this roup?’’ Yes, it is roup, and when lumps and sores appear it is verging on the scrofulous. It is useless to 128 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. attempt to save such a bird, as the labor required would be too great, and the disease may spread. As a remedy a ‘table- spoonful of chlorate of potash in each quart of drinking water, with the anointing of the face with a few drops of a mixture of one part spirits turpentine, and three of sweet oil, would be excellent. Eye Ointment.—When the eyes are covered with matter they may be anointed with a mixture of one part spirits tur- pentine and three parts sweet ‘oil. Soap Remedy. never failed me for the last fifteen years. It may be of use to some of your readers. Take common soap, scrape off with a knife from the bar as much as you require, and work into the same as much red pepper as it willtake. Give two pills the size of a hazelnut. If one dose don’t fix them, a second dose the next day will.—F. G. Lee. EGG-BOUND is caused by the hen being too fat, by the attentions ofa heavy cock, by jumping. from a high roost, or by injury of some kind, but overfeeding is the main cause. It may be known by the appearance of the hen from the rear. If the egg gets broken it will usually prove fatal with the hen, and for that reason great care should be exercised in treating. The first step is to oil the vent with pure olive oil; also inject a little into the egg passage. If that does not give relief within an hour repeat, and in addition bathe the parts with something warm and moist. The food should be soft, and but a small quantity given until the egg passes. If an ordi- nary fowl we advise killing for the table before fever sets in. If the hen is valuable it may pay to give her careful atten- tion until relieved. The following has been recommended: One grain calomel, one twelfth of a grain of tartar emetic and a quarter of a grain of opium, made into a pill, and ad- ministered every four hours. In the first pill the quantity of calomel and opium may be doubled. The chances are small that a hen which has become egg-bound at any time will be of any value afterwards as a layer. CROP-BOUND. When a fowl’s crop is hard and about twice as large as it DISEASES. 129 ought to be there is something that prevents the contents from passing into the gizzard. This trouble: is called crop- bound, and to unbind it pour some warm water down the throat and then carefully knead the crop until the contents are somewhat softened, then hold the fowl’s head down, open the beakand work at thecropa little longer. After this, give a tablespoonful of castor oil and shut the fowl up for ten or twelve hours without food. At the end of that time if the crop is not empty, or partly so, cut it open and remove the contents. Make an inch and a half opening in the upper part of the crop. Have a small sharp knife, and be careful not to cut any of the large blood vessels. After the removal, oil ” your finger (use sweet oil) and pass it carefully as far as possible down the passage toward the gizzard so as to be sure that there isa clear track for future meals. Take two or three stitches in the crop, also in the outer skin, using care that you do not sew the one to the other; use silk thread. Shut the fowl by itself and feed- lightly on soft cooked food for ten or twelve days, giving no drink for two days after the operation. Some prefer warm lard to water. Sweet oil may be used. SCABBY LEGS are due to minute parasites too small to be seen, but which rapidly multiply. Scabby legs make the bird a filthy, disa- greeable object. To cure it is easy if taken in hand when it begins to make its appearance, as an ointment composed of one part coal oil and two parts lard will clear it entirely off, but when the legs become thickly covered with heavy scales or shales, some work must be done. First scrape away as much of the scale as possible, and grease the legs, from the thighs tothe toes, with the following ointment: Gas tar, one gill; lard, one gill; carbolic acid, one teaspoonful; coal oil, one tablespoonful. Wash and dry the legsafter scraping them, and rub the mixture on well. Do this every week, re- peating the rubbing and scraping, and as the parasite which causes the disease will soon succumb to the ointment, the scale will gradually come off. The best plan is touse the ointment early and often, as the disease is contagious. Another Remedy.—The above remedy is the one pre- 130 -LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. scribed by P. H. Jacobs, editor of the Poultry Keeper. The following is one given by Fannie Field, the noted poultry keeper of Massachusetts. Dip the fowl’s legs into coal oil and hold them there until the oil has had time to pene- trate beneath the scales and kill the parasites that do the mischief. These applications, with intervals of a day or two between, will generally effect a cure. The scales will loosen and tall off. Do not try to hasten their departure by rubbing or scraping them off. Rub the legs carefully every day with melted lard or sweet oil until they are smooth and well. Sealy legs or scabby legs are contagious. That is, the para- sites go from one fowl to another till the whole flock is af- flicted unless their ‘‘run’’ is stopped; hence the first affected fowl] noticed should be at once dealt with. To us the Fannie Field remedy seems the simplest. FEATHER-FEATING is a vice rather than a disease. Like all bad things, it con- taminates all within its reach, so when a fowl is noticed do- ing the unclean thing the surest way to stop the ill effects of this bad example is to use the hatchet and put the offender in the pot. Ifa valuable bird it may be broken of the habit by the use of a bridle which can be bought for a few cents. A Remedy recommended by some is this: Make an ointment of sulphur, kerosene, lard and carbolic acid. Anoint that part of the plumage that 1s being pulled out, and the offender, not relishing this ‘‘sauce,” may soon stop its offense. One poultryman fed his flock feathers and they soon got disgusted with such fare and behaved themselves. It is very seldom a busy flock has any feather-eaters among them. It is idleness that begets the evil. Keep the flock scratching, hustling. ; INDIGESTION. When a bird walks lazily about, with little appetite, hardly touching ordinary food, while droppings are scanty and unhealthy in character, it is pretty certain something is wrong with its digestion. The causes vary, but the treat- ment should be the same. Give daily five grains of rhubarb, changed every fourth day to one grain of calomel. Restrict the diet to a small allowance twice daily of soft, well cooked DISEASES. 131 food. Let the fowl drink after each meal, then remove the water vessel. A little finely cut green grass may be given several times a day. ENLARGEMENT OF THE LIVER. Very often simple indigestion neglected may termi- nate.in serious enlargements or other disorders of the liver. Overfeeding—especially with highly seasoned foods— or other errors in diet, and lack of exercise may be the cause. The symptoms are laziness and lack of appetite, with a sickly, yellowish look about the head and comb. If there is much enlargement of the liver, treatment is of little avail and the hatchet would be the best thing to use; but as there is no way of telling the size of the liver until after death, there is a desire to put off death as long as possible. The rations must be cut down. Give a grain of calomel every other day for a week, give as much range as possible, and feed green onions. LIVER COMPLAINT. In the Iowa Homestead a reader says: One of my chick- ens died. It stood around, with its head drawn back to the wings. The head looked pale, and of a yellowish tint. The bird grew light to about half its natural weight. The crop was entirely empty, but the stomach was as hard as a rubber ball, and on opening it I found it filled with gravel and small straws. It had an inflamed look. The inside skin was loose from the outer part, about two-thirds around. The drop- pings were yellow and white, and thin, as in dysentery. Is the disease contagious, and can you suggest a remedy? Part of the symptoms point to the common trouble of “growing light,” a liver complaint. Probably you noticed when you dissected the bird, that the liver had an unnatural color, and a rotten or cheesy look. When alive, a fowl suffering from this complaint has a regular jaundice and bilious look, with diarrhea at one time and costiveness at another timé. There is no positive remedy after the trouble once seats itself. In the early stages, when the bird seems mopish, and the blood seems to leave the comb and wattles, the disease can be checked by giving a family liver pill. Re- peat the dose in a day or two. Remove the bird to separate 132 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. quarters, and feed # warm mash of brap and a little corn meal or middlings. Give a little whole wheat at night. A little condition powder added to the morning mash will greatly aid a cure. Give plenty of green food. Cabbage hung up in the hen-house furnishes excellent greens for fowls in winter. The disease ‘‘growing light,’ is not contagious, but at the same time the sick birds should be removed to warm and dry quarters. BUMBLEFOOT REMEDIES. A Poultry Keeper reader says to the man that com. plains of bumblefoot in heavy chicks: ‘Don’t let them roost at all, but throw some straw on the floor of the house and let them sit on it, turn it over once ina while and mix in the droppings; when it becomes foul mix with stable manure and save it for the garden. For bumblefoot use an’ oint- ment: Tincture iodine, one ounce; oil origanum, one ounce; lard, one half pound. Mix with lard, warm first; don’t leave near a flame as it is very volatile.’’—J. McKenzie, Pennsyl- vania. : Take the bird to the cellar or some warm house, if in winter, then prepare a poultice made of bread and milk. Take a dish of warm water and place the bird’s foot in it for afew minutes. After soaking it wash the foot clean and wipe dry, then place the bird between your knees, take the foot in your left hand, and with a sharp knife cut across the bumble down to the bone. Then make another cut across the swelling, making the letter X, then press the matter out. It will be a thick, cheesy substance. Now apply the poul- tice, first sprinkling on a little pepper. eave the poultice on for twelve hours, then change by putting on a new one as before. This may remain on for twenty-four hours, then take it off and wash the foot with warm milk and water, and apply a cloth smeared with pine tar. Leave that on for one week, and when it comes off the foot will be well. —‘H. B.” Iowa. DEBILITY in chicks is often caused by rapid growth, of feathers. Feed plenty of meat, give other food in variety four or five times aday. Give of Condition Powder No. 1 (page 134), about DISEASES. 133 half a teaspoonful to each ten quarts of soft food. Also, give a teaspoonful of the tincture of iron to each gallon of water. : WORMS. Sometimes worms are at the bottom of‘the ‘“‘out of or- der’’ condition of the poultry. If worms are noticed in the evacuations, there need be no doubt of the trouble, and the fowls should each be given a piece of camphor gum the size of amarrowfat pea. ‘Twelve hours after give another dose of castor oil (teaspoonful) and put a teasponful of sulphur and a tablespoonful of powdered charcoal in each pint cf the soft food two or three times a week. If there are deaths in the flock from unknown causes, it often pays to examine the dead fowls. If worms are found treat for them. Occasion- ally ‘‘crop-bound’’ may be caused by worms, or worms may be present in connection with that disorder, if they do not cause it. Not long ago a person wrote to me: ‘‘My old tur- keys dump around for two or three days with some matter running from their beaks, while they try to swallow. One of them died. I opened it,and upon examination found its craw full, and, oh! so sour, and just lined with little white worms.’’ In such cases we would advise treatment as for crop-bound, followed by that recommended above for worms. SWELLED EYES are due to drafts or sudden changes in weather. Wash the heads with warm water, and touch a drop of glycerine to the eyelids. CHILLED CHICKS. When young chicks are caught in a shower, fall into the swill barrel or wander through dewy grass and get ‘‘chilled to death’’ there is sometimes life left but it needs to be warmed up or else it will soon go out. Ifthe chick is still able to stand up, drying it off well with warm flannel and then placing in a warm place—the oven of the kitchen stove is the most common place on the farm where brooders are not had—will usually bring the little fellow back to life and actively. When the patient is stiff and cold more heroic measures are needed. Take the chick by the beak and both legs and plunge it into water at 120° at least. Keep the 134 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. nostrils and eyes out but let all the rest gounder. As thecoid body cools the water off, add more hot water to keep up the temperature. If he begins to kick and struggle do not treat him harshly, but soon remove him and dry off as mentioned above and give him a warm place, well wrapped in warm flannel. This treatment will not bring a dead .chick to life, but it will cause many a chick to live that would otherwise stay ‘‘dead,’’ when cold and stiff from being chilled. CONDITION POWDER NO. 1. Carbonate of iron, one ounce; anise seed, two ounces; . powdered ginger, six ounces; mustard, one ounce; fine salt, two ounces; sulphur, two ounces; licorice, four ounces; powdered charcoal, fourteen ounces. Powder and mix thor- oughly. Keep in a tight vessel, fruit-can for instance. A teaspoonful of this toten quarts of soft food daily will often be of service in keeping the flock in prime condition. CONDITION POWDER NO. 2. This powder is more in the way of an appetizer and gen- eral invigorator than a medicine, and may be given daily with good results. The amount to be fed is a tablespoonful to five hens. Take two pounds linseed meal, four ounces phosphate of soda, two ounces chalk, four ounces gentian, one ounce ginger, four ounces charcoal, one ounce salt. Have all nicely powdered and mix thoroughly. DOUGLASS MIXTURE, the tonic most often’ recommended for poultry, is made as follows: Dissolve a pound of copperas in two gallons of water; then add two ounces of sulphuric acid. Put in stone jug and keep well corked. The dose is a tablespoonful to each quart of drinking water. When handling the sulphuric acid be careful, as it is poisonous. CHAPTER V. TURKEYS, DUCKS AND GHESE. RAISING TURKEYS. If one intends to raise turkeys and has not a large range for them, where there is no danger of their continually bothering the neighbors, he had better turn his attention to something else, as turkeys are naturally of a very wandering disposition and can not be successfully raised in confinem€nt. If you can keep turkeys without trespassing on the rights of others, you will find them a profitable adjunct to general farming. Many farmers, farmers’ wives and daughters would find it more profitable and really no more work than raising chickens. But there is need of patience and perse- verance; do not be disappointed if over half the young turks ‘die the first year—probably more will live the second. WOMEN AS TURKEY-RAISERS are usually much more successful than men, and especially those who have brought up families, since, for the first few days of their lives, the poults need nearly as close attention and care as babies. When starting in do not begin on too large-a scale, then the failure will not be so great financially. A few sittings of eggs may be bought of a reliable dealer. A better way may be to get a gobbler and two or three hens of pure breed. If there are good common hens in the neighborhood and the capital is very limited, a gobbler alone might be purchased; but many consider it cheaper in the long run to have all thoroughbreds from the start. Do not buy too heavy a one if to be mated with common hens, as he may injure them. It is held by some that the birds should be two’ years old, as ‘“‘yearlings” are not fully matured_and their offspring would be weak. Others claim that a yearling 136 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. gobbler and hens two years old give as good poults as any matings. s The idea that turkey eggs will not hatch well after transportation or under hens. is a mistaken one. Turkey eggs fresh and fertile, from healthy breeding stock, and properly packed, will bear shipping just as well as hen’s eggs and will hatch just as well under a hen as they would under a turkey. Infact, some people find that during the first few weeks after hatching, the poults are more easily eared for with a hen than witha turkey. Before getting your turkey eggs to set make sure of your sitter; have a steady, reliable hen, one which can be relied upon to stick to her jcb until it is finished, and have her sit where the other hens cannot interfere with her. . Some breeders give seven turkey eggs for a sitting, oth- ers nine, others thirteen, but seven eggs are. enough for one hen. Whenever it is possible to do so, set turkey eggs out- doors on the ground. By making the nest, in a bottomless coop and placing a lath or wire pen in front of the coop where you can feed and water the sitter, the hen is secured from all annoyance by other fowls and all danger from foxes and skunks by night. Dust the hen well with insect powder to begin with, and again in ten days, and yet again three days before hatching time. Beyond this and the regular daily feeding and water- ing, let the hen run the business herself when she is sitting onthe ground. But if for any reason she sits elsewhere it will be well to sprinkle the eggs with tepid water daily dur- ing the last ten days of incubation. Do this just at dusk, carefully lifting the hen from the nest for that purpose. The gobblers may be kept until four years old and the hens uutil five. If many hens are kept some of the best should be selected each year to keep up the stock; when the gobbler grows old get a new one not related to him, as turkeys very quickly show the effects of inbreeding. One gobbler is sufficient for a dozen hens; more have sometimes been kept with one, but it is not advisible. If he is very large and tears the hen’s back in trying to keep his hold, cut off the inside toe nails with a sharp knife. RAISING TURKEYS. 137 STARTING A FLOCK. If turkey fowls are purchased, when laying time arrives, nesting places should be prepared for them—old broken bar- rels ‘‘accidentally’’ cast in an out-of-the-way place, a heap of brush or a few loose boards ‘‘dumped’’ into a fence corner will just suit the hens. Turkeys want to hunt up their own nests and may wander off where the eggs will be hard to find, but if they are kept tame by kind treatment and convenient places fixed for them, there will not likely be much trouble in getting the eggs. While the weather is cold or damp they should be gathered every day and kept in a cool,dry place—a few porcelain or other nest-eggs being left in their stead. The first eggs may be set under hens, giving seven to nine apiece; if the hen cannot be set on the ground a sod should be put in bottom of nest. After being set a week, if two or three hen’s eggs are added, the young chicks will quietly aid keeping the turks from wandering too far, and thus they will be more likely to get home at night. After the weather be- ~ comes warm the eggs may be left in the turkey’s nest and she will sit when she gets ready; if there are not about twenty eggs then, more may be givenher. If hensare set at same time, the poults may all be given to the turkey on hatching. Twenty-eight days is the time required for turkey eggs to hatch, and the turkey should always sit upon the ground. If two or more should want to sit at the same time and one can cover all the eggs, give them to her and break the other up. She may begin laying a little later, and with care the late hatched turks will prove profitable. At any rate the gobbler will be more contented; if all the hens are sitting he should be shut up, as he may disturb them and the eggs be lost, or perhaps he will pay his respects to the chickens, and disaster will be sure to follow. When sitting the hens should not be taken off to feed, but food and water should always be in reach when they come off, which may not. be more than once in three days. Sprinkling the eggs with tepid water will be beneficial. Before the day of hatching arrives the hen and nest should be carefully treated to insect powder, as lice are almost cer- tair death to newly hatched turkeys. When hatching, the 138 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. hen should be left entirely undisturbed, but a coop should be close at hand to receive her and her brood, and she should be carefully watched, as she will seize the first opportunity to lead them off into damp grass where many will perish. Bet- ter than to watch her, will be to place a lath fence or wire netting about the nest. Do not feed the poults any the first day; on the second give them, five times a day, old wheat bread moistened with milk, eggs boiled until they crumble easily, and ‘‘Dutch cheese.’”? Give fresh milk for drink. Continue this food a couple of weeks, then make a ‘‘cake’’ of two parts corn meal .and one of shorts, season with salt and pepper, and use bak- ing powder to raise it; finely chopped meat will serve well for “raisins.” Bake this thoroughly and feed dry, slightly moistening the crust. Give sour milk to drink if easily ob. tainable. Change gradually from one class of food to the other. If the eggs and milk for the cheese are not at hand, give bread crumbs for a few days, and then the ‘“‘cake’’ described above. If they have plenty of sour milk they will not need meat as much as though they had no milk. Feed everything as dry as possible, and don’t give more than they will eat®at a time. After they get big enough to catch insects and pick up food for themselves they do not need to be fed so often; night and morning is sufficient if foraging is good. Always give them a little grain at night to keep them in the habit of coming home to roost, and if their crops are not full, fill them. ; CARE AFTER HATCHING. For the first few days after hatching, the hens should be confined in large roomy coops with dry floors; have little yards attached to keep the poults from running away. Then for another week or so keep the mother confined, but on pleasant days after the dew is off let the poults go in and out of the pen at will. They will not wander far enough to tire them out, as they might if the hen were given full liberty with them. After that on pleasant days when the dew is off the grass the hens and broods may be given their liberty: RAISING TURKEYS. 139 they should be kept shut up on all damp or rainy days. If the damp weather continues the coops should be moved into the barn or some other place where it is dry and the young “turks” can run about. Have dry earth or sand on the floor. If the business is carried on toany great extent it would pay to have a turkey shed; this is best made with a shingled or tar-papered roof and three closed sides, the front facing south and consisting of large folding doors with windows in them, so that when the sun shines the whole may be open, but yet there may be plenty of light when it rains; the floor ‘should be of sand. Here the coops can be placed and the poults have their liberty. If turkeys are not kept out of the damp and still be able to run about, the majority will be most certain to die, for turkeys must be kept dry and must have exercise. This is why so many fail to raise turkeys—they do not keep them dry during the early weeks of their lives. Of course where one has a dozen or more broods to look after it would be a big job to get them all to shelter if a sudden shower should come up while the poults are out in the fields; but one must, as they can stand but little wetting, either of dew or rain, until pretty well feathered, and some of them would be drowned, or chilled beyond hope. So where many are raised it is advisable to keep the mothers confined to the coop and run until the little ones are about six weeks old, moving the coops and pens often enough to keep everything clean. This shed can be used as a roosting place in winter and for con- fining the birds at any other time. If the turkeys do not return from their foraging expedi- tions at evening, ‘they should be looked up immediately, as the dew may kill them or something carry them off during the night. , The poults should be watched at all times for lice, and as a preventive is better than a cure, dust them frequently with insect powder, or brush them with a feather dipped in tincture of iodine; don’t use kerosene or sulphur. If at any time they are caught ina rain or escape into the damp grass and get chilled, wrap them up and put by the kitchen fire immediately. If very far gone hold in a pail 140 LLUYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. of warm water until they are fully ‘‘waked up,’ then wipe off and wrap up. When they become fully feathered and the red about their heads begins to show, turkeys need very little atten- tion except to see that they get to ‘‘bed’’ properly and have had plenty to eat. To make large turkeys for Thanksgiving they must not go hungry for a single day. Some two months before you wish to market the first of your turkeys, begin to feed them a mash of cooked vegetables stirred stiff with bran and corn meal in the morning and give buckwheat and whole corn at night. Give them plenty, of good water; also pulverized charcoal mixed in morning food twice a week. If insects are scarce give meat. About two weeks before marketing shut up those that you want to keep over or until later inthe season, and let those to be fattened have free range (turkeys often grow poor in confinement with heaps of food in front of them) and feed them three or four timesa day with potatoes cooked with corn meal, or corn meal mush made with milk, and at night, give whole corn; some other grain might do for a change once or twice. Do not feed more than they will eat up clean, and let the meals be at as long inter- vals as daylight willallow. Ifthe food is dropped by the handful so that they scramble for it, they will eat much more than if it is dumped on the ground before they are called up. Turkeys reared and fattened in this way will be a profit- able investment, though it may appear before attempting, or on first trial, to be otherwise. Turkeys are subject to the common diseases that afflict fowls if they are surrounded by the same conditions. The same general treatment will apply to them as to other poultry. The hatchet is the best and quickest remedy; if other treatment is desired consult the chapter on ‘Diseases of Poultry.”” The chapter on ‘‘Dressing and Shipping” tells how to dress and ship. ‘ RAISING DUCKS. In many respects ducks are more easily raised than any other kind of poultry, and it is surprising that so many RAISING DUCKS. 141 pouitry raisers are without these profitable birds as an ad- dition to their business. It is not necessary to have a large body of water, or even a small creek, to successfully raise ducks. Mr. James Ran- kin, who raises thousands of ducklings yearly, has found, after careful experiments, that he can rear them without water, except for drinking purposes, more profitably than with it; as when frequenting bodies of water, a greater or less number are always caught by skunks, minks, turtles and other animals, and many get lost in mire and mud. He also keeps his ducks in limited runs. It is a popular belief that water for bathing is neces- sary to secure a-good proportion of fertile eggs, but this is disapproved by some who have thoroughly tried it. Ducks ean stand colder weather than chickens, but in the northern portions of our country should have a good shelter —a low shed with tight roof, open to the south, will do, but it would be much better to have it boarded up and plenty of windows inserted; gravel is all the floor needed. One drake to five or six ducks is sufficient. One drake has been kept with seven or eight ducks with good results. SPRING DUCKS. If you are situated convenient to a good market, the most profitable way is to hatch the ducks early and turn off when about ten weeks old, for they always command a high price in May and June. The old ducks should be kept in good condition, but not too fat, throughout the fall and winter; one of the best feeds for this purpose is equal parts of corn meal and bran boiled with turnips or potatoes with beef scraps added. Give them two meals of this a day, and for the third, wheat, oats and corn. The corn should be cracked, as ducks do not digest hard food as well as chickens. ._They should begin to-lay about January 1, and then the propor- tion of corn meal and beef should be increased. As a duckoften lays fifty eggs or more, the first ones should be set under hens and, for that matter, all of them, since ducks as a rule arenot very goodincubators. The best nest is made by using a sod at the bottom and covering with an inch of chopped straw. During the last two weeks 142 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. of incubation the eggs should be sprinkled with tepid water, when the hens are off, as otherwise the ducklings may not succeed in getting out, as the shells are quite tough. Many recommend removing the ducks as soon as hatched and plac- ing them in a warm place to dry off, for if leff in the nest until all are hatched the older ones are apt to knock the empty shells down over the other eggs and effectually im- prison the occupants, or smother the newly hatched duck- ling by crawling on top of it. There is this difference between young ahiotes and duck- lings when hatching time comes. The chick a few hours after pipping the shell will be out taking in its surround- jugs. Whereas the duckling, which will be ready, about the twenty-fourth day to break the shell, will lie forty-eight hours before it is ready to come out. At this time it is necessary to keep some watch on the hatching, as the duck- ling is apt to get smothered if the pipped side of the egg gets turned down. Alsothe shells should be removed from the nest or incubator, to prevent them getting crowded over the pipped eggs, and thereby smothering the little fellows that are seeking air. If theshell of an egg is pipped, but the inside skin or membrane is not broken, it will be well to make a small opening through it with a blunt needle. Be careful not to prick the duckling. Very often ducklings have ‘to be helped from the shells, but do not do this till they are kicking around lively; if you do they are apt to bleed to death. When taken from the nest,place the hen in a coop witha little pen around it to keep the ducklings ‘‘at home.” This pen is easily made by setting up six-inch boards and driving stakes to hold them in place. Do not give the ducklings anything to eat during the first twenty-four hours of their lives, then feed every two hours, hard boiled eggs with bread crumbs worked in. Do not boil the eggs too hard; just so the yolk is sticky is considered best by most successful breeders. If you use a tester and remove the infertile eggs from the nests, keep them, for they will be just the thing for early feeding. Besure to have plenty of water in shallow tinsso that the ducklings can not get themselves wet; but they eat @ RAISING DUCKS. 143 -so rapidly that they will choke themselves if they do not have an abundance to drink. FEEDING DUCKLINGS. If you have plenty of eggs continue feeding them, mixed with bread fora week or more, then gradually change to corn meal and bran or middlings half and half, cooked in sour milk if easily obtained; if not use water and baking powder. Always put some meat in the mixture. Feed this quite dry four times a day and give chopped grass or other “ereens;’’ if these can not be secured, cut up clover hay and steep in hot water. Ducks to do well must have plenty of green food. Do not give them milk to drink as they will be sure to daub themselves with it and get their down pulled out. A little sand is often added to the food to help diges- tion. Theducklings should be kept from the water until they are feathered, as their down is no protection and they are easily chilled, with fatal results. They should be fed all they will eat up clean, and should be kept growing rapidly. When six weeks old, three meals a day are sufficient; the proportion of meat and corn meal should continue to be in- creased until at eight weeks their feed will be about three- quarters meal, the remainder being bran or middlings (or better both), meat and green stuff. With this treatment the ducklings at ten weeks of age should weigh about five pounds each, if of the larger breeds —the Pekin is considered the best, as it grows very rapidly, and the pin-feathers do not show as much as those of the dark-colored varieties. Always save your breeding stock from the best of your earlier hatchings, if you wish to get strong, early ducks another year. Do not crowd these with fattening foods. , LATE DUCKLINGS. If there is no convenient market for ‘‘green” ducks, as they are called when fattened young, or for any other reason it seems best to keep them until fall, it is not necessary to hatch so early or crowd them so, and this lessens the ex- pense of raising, but it still more lessens the profit. If ducks are raised in large numbers it will pay to have 144 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. an incubator and brooder, and thus spare the worry and loss occasioned by fickle hens not wishing to sit at the proper time. Chicks may be hatched in December and January,and in this way the incubators and brooders can be pressed into doing double duty. The chickens grow more slowly than, the ducks, and will be ready to turn off about the same time. PICKING DUCKS. Duck feathers always bring a fair price, especially white ones, and should be saved when dressing the ducks, if they are sold dressed; if not sold dressed do not pick just before selling. The amount received for the feathers ought to pay for the dressing. The breeding ducks may be picked several times a year, generally four to six. Do not pick until the feathers are “ripe,’’ which can be told by pulling a few from different parts of the bodies of several birds. If they come out easily, without any bloody fluid in the quill, they are all right and should be ‘‘picked”’ or many will be lost. In piclk- ing pull only afew feathers at a time by taking between the thumb and forefinger and giving a quick,downward jerk. Do not pull the bunch of long, coarse feathers under each wing. Before you begin picking,tie the duck’s legs together with a bit of sting or other soft cloth and if the duck is inclined to object to the picking by thrusts with the bill, slip an old stocking or something of the sort over its head. Use no unnecessary harshness with any of the birds and be espe- cially careful withlayingducks. Sitting ducks and those that are soon to be set should not be picked. In hot weather much of the down may be taken from the drakes. Donot take any in cold weather. In handling ducks do not lift or carry them by the legs. Ducks usually lay early in the morning, but are inclined to drop their eggs anywhere, so itis best to keep them shut up until ten o’clock. Young ducklings should be kept out of the direct rays of the sun. Whether turned off young or when mature, ducks will yield a good profit ifrightly managed, and the number rai:ed need be limited only by the cap.icity of the premises and of the man; the latter has much more than the former to do with RAISING GEESE. 145 success in duck raising. No one should go into duck farming unless he grows into it from small beginnings. It is doubt- ful if there is any one in this country who raises more duck- lings than Mr. Jas. Rankin, and he began in a very small way years ago with a few common ducks. Now he has many incubators, brooders and brooder-houses doing all of the work possible in the business. The eggs are furnished by high-bred Pekin ducks that are given good care and close attention. RAISING GEESE. Although this country is better adapted (on account of the almost unlimited range obtainable) for raising geese than the old country, flocks of them are a much rarer sight than across the water. In many sections there is only an occasional trio or so kept by a thrifty German, who has not ‘forgotton the comforts of a feather bed of his own raising. Geese are great foragers and must have plenty of green stuff; they do better where there is plenty of range with convenient water; swamps and marshes are just the thing. but upland pastures and abandoned hilly farms do very well if water is provided. Many a worn-out piece of ground would yield a good profit if used as a goose pasture. The low lands along coasts and rivers may also be turned to very good advantage to their owners. If,in starting out, geese are purchased,it is on the whole best to buy well mated old ones. The gander does not fully mature until the third year, and the goslings from younger parents will not likely be as strong or grow as large as those from fully matured birds. But there is neverthe- less a redeeming feature in using young birds when extra early goslings are an object, as yearling geese will begin to lay earlier than older ones. Geese naturally pair, but two or three females may be kept with one gander, though he is very apt to have a favorite mate and the eggs of the others may prove iargely infertile. Yet if the favorite begins to sit first, he will make love to the others and then there will be no trouble the next season; for this reason it is usually pest to keep the same breeding stock for several years. 146 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. If the geese are given plenty of vegetables during the winter and not kept too fat, they ougbt to begin to lay in February or March and produce fifteen to twenty eggs be- fore wanting to sit; often thirty eggs are laid ifthe birds are previously rightly cared for. When ready to begin lay- ing, the old goose will usually carry bits of straws or stubble around to make a nest with; she should be shut up ina roomy kennel or shed-roofed box until she has laid and there she will usually return to deposit the rest of her litter. HATCHING THE EGGS. The first eggs should be set under hens,giving four to six eggsapiece; many prefer to have hens do all the incubating, as the goose is rather apt tocrush the newly hatched gosling. The eggs may be hatched in incubators. If either by this mode or by hens, they should be well sprinkled the last two weeks of incubation, as the eggs are even tougher than those of ducks, and the young goslings will often have to be helped out. The time of incubation is twenty-eight to thirty days, If the goose is to be the mother she should be left alone and the other geese kept from her, as she;will probably resent interference in an unpleasant if not disastrous manner, and, especially if the gander is near at hand, as is often the case, the intruder may be roughly handled. Food and water should be kept near at hand, for if obliged to seek her food the eggs will very likely be chilled before she returns. When hatched remove the mother and brood to a large coop with a pen around it and plenty of shade, as the hot sun is fatal to young goslings. Ifa hen is set a day or sobefore the goose, all the goslings may be giventhe goose to care for. Do not feed anything for twenty-four hours, then give same food as ducks for a few days. , The young goslings should be kept from the water for at least two weeks, after which they may run at large with their mother unless the weather is cold or rainy, when they should be kept under shelter. As soon as they begin to forage a feed of corn meal cooked with vegetables should be given morning and evening for several months; and they should be shut up at night. After this feed only whole corn at night if it is desired to raise them at little expense. They RAISING GEESE. 147 grow rapidly and are soon out of danger of chilling and are very free from disease. If desired they may be sold as ‘‘green geese’? when from six to eight weeks old; in this case they should be crowded from the start. Unless designed for breeding stock or kept for their feathers, they should be sold before a year old, as ‘old’: goose is tough and brings a low price. FATTENING FOR MARKET. When fattening, feed three times a day on cooked corn meal and potatoes. (Tobe at their best they should have been fed at least twice a day frcm the very start). Geese are very fast friends, and when only part are being fattened the others should be kept out of sight or they willvery likely pine for them and lose flesh. When marketing kill all of one lot at the same time, or the result just mentioned will follow. Goose feathers always command a high price and should be plucked twice or thrice a year, according to climate. A good goose will yield a pound or more of feathers annually. In picking, follow the directions given for picking ducks. Even though you have no suitable place to rear geese, but wish to enjoy the luxury of a home-grown bed or the royal repast of Christmas goose, a few may be profitably raised by herding them on the street, like cattle, and giving water for drinking only. Many may have neglected to engage in this remunerative industry because of the common belief that geese are such “awful” eaters, but since, as has been mentioned, they live principally on grass during the summer, the cost of their feed is not great, considering the profit to be gained. CHAPTER VI. CAPONS AND CAPONIZING. Capons are castrated cockerels, and when fattened are called the ‘‘finest chicken meat in the world.”’ When capon- izing, as the operation is termed, was first practiced is un- known; it was in vogue as long ago as Shakespeare’s time and has been very commonly and popularly carried on in France for many years. In some sections of a few Hastern States capons have been quite numerous for a few years, and the demand for them has increased their production, till now they are found quite frequently in the leading poultry markets of the East, and for two seasons at least, have not infrequently been seen upon the Chicago market. A capon is neither hen nor rooster—he is a capon, and the reason that so much has been said about him in poultry and agricultural papers of late is that the makers of caponizing instruments have taken advantage of the fact that he sells for more per pound than either in the market, and usually weighs more at a given age than a rooster, to push their goods by showing the vast profit between having a lot of old roosters around and a lot of fine capons to turn off that have eaten no more than the cheap ‘‘drug on the market’’ rooster. In doing this they have done good missionary work towards reducing the number of cockerels that are annually allowed to grow from nice broilers or spring chickens to old roosters, and have spread broadcast much valuable information and furnished full directions for caponizing. A set of caponizing tools usually consists of the follow- ing instruments, put up in a neat case, as shown in the illus- tration, with full directions inclosed: Fieure 1—Cords for quickly securing fowls to the table, rendering them unable to struggle in the least. Fieure 2—Knife or Lancet for making incisions. CAPONS AND CAPONIZING 149 Fiaure 3—A Spring Spreader for holding ribs apart after incision is made, and so constructed as to automatically suit any size fowl. FiaurE 4—Sharp Hook ‘to pick open the film-like skin after incision is made, with knife. This skin must always be picked open before you can proceed with the operation. Frieurr 5—Probe for pushing back intestines when they crowd testicles, aiding the learner to slip loop over testicle ete \-) aT 17 | CAPONIZING SET Pata eld Xo 8 GEORGE.P PILLING & SON. PHILA. PAR. easily, and is also used to’ discover any foreign substances that may find their way into the cut before the operation is finished. FieuRE 6—Caponizing Canula. FieurE 7—Curved Spoon Forceps, for removing any foreign particles that may remain, such as feathers, etc. These are used in conjunction with probe (Fig. 5). The Directions for Caponizing, as given by Geo. P. Pill- iug & Son, Philadelphia, which are essentially the same as given by all manufacturers and may be relied upon, are as follows: From twenty-four to thirty hours before performing theop- eration, select such cockerels as you intend to caponize (these should be from two to three months old), confining them in a clean and airy coup or room without either food or water. The best time to confine them is at early morning, as their 150 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. long fast will then end about noon of the following day, at which time the operation is best performed. Should the day be cloudy or wet do not caponize them, but let the operation go until you have a bright and fair day. It is necessary that you have all light possible in the matter. If it be a cloudy day, and you decide not to caponize, the birds may be given ‘a little water or food if necessary, but it is much better to avoid this, if possible, as it is very desirable to have their intestines quite empty, thus allowing their testicles to be more readily seen, besides giving the operator much more room in which to perform his work. Lay the bird on the operating table on its left side. Wrap the cord (Figure 1), twice around the bird’s legs above the knees. In making one wrap only there is danger of the birds kicking themselves out of the loop. Hook the other cord once around both of his wings close to the body. To the opposite end of these cords attach a half brick or some equal weight, letting them hang over the sides of the table. This holds the bird securely. Have all your instruments in readiness that you may work quickly. Thread the Canula (Figure 5) with a strong and long horse-hair or fine steel wire (we think wire the best), letting the wire form a loop at the curved end and well out at the other end. Now after slightly wetting the spot pro- ceed to pluck the feathers from the upper part of the last two ribs and just in front of the thigh joint. Pull the flesh on the side down toward the hip, and when the operation is fin- ished the cut between the ribs will be entirely closed by the skin going back to its place. While holding the flesh back with the left hand, with the right hand take the knife (Fig- ure 2) and insert it (cutting-edge away from you) between the last two ribs, cutting first down and then up a little ways, following the direction of the ribs, making the cut not over one inch long. Cut deep enough to go through the skin and ribs, being very careful not to go so deep as to cut intes- tines. There is little danger of doing this, however, if they are empty, as they will be from the bird’s long tast. The danger of cutting the intestines is when they are full, as in this state they press against the ribs. Should the cut bleed, stop a moment, let the blood clot on the thin skin covering CAFONS AND CAPONIZING. 151 the bowels, and then remove it with Curved Spoon For- ceps (Figure 7). Now take the Improved Spring Spreader (Figure 3), press it between the thumb and finger until the ends come to- gether, inserting the ends in the incision with the spring end toward the bird’s feet (see operating table). Upon looking into the cut a thin tissue-like skin will be seen just under the ribs and enclosing the bowels. Take the sharp hook (Figure 4) and pick the tissue open so that you may get into the bird with the instruments. The breaking of this skin does not cause the least pain to the bird. One of the testicles will now be brought plainly to view lying close up to the back of the fowl. Sometimes both testicles are in sight, but this is not generally the case, as the other one lies beyond and more on the other side of the bird, the intestines preventing it from being seen from this opening. The testi- ele brought to view is enveloped ina film. This should be brought away with the testicle. Some people in caponizing tear theskin open and then take the testicle out. Thedanger in so doing is that if this skin is left there is danger of caus- ing a ‘‘slip.” Now comes the only dangerous part of the whole oper. ation —getting hold of and removing the testicles. But with a steady hand and plenty of light not one bird in a hundred should be lost. Attached to the testicle and lying back of it is one of the principal arteries of the fowl, and if this is rup- tured it is sure to cause death. It is here that the improved Canula (Figure 5) proves of the greatest advantage. The hair (or wire) being small and very fine is easily slipped be- tween the testicle and artery without injury to either, a clear, clean cut made that no other instrument can do. Take the Canula in the right hand and adjust the hair (or wire) in it so that a loop about one-half inch long will extend from small end of tube, leaving the two ends of the wire extend- ing far enough outof the open end to secure a good hold. Insert the end of tube that has the loop on it very carefully and slip the loop over both ends of the testicle and entirely around it, hold end of tube close down to the testicle. When the testicle is entirely encircled by the loop, take both 152 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. ends of wire (or horse hair) which comes out of the other end of tube with thumb and first finger, holding it tight, and draw up on it carefully but firmly, being particularly careful to have the loop around testicle. Keep end of tube very close to testicle all the time. 1f drawing up on the wire does not at once cut testicle, slightly turn from one side to the other (but not entirely around), then the testicle will come off. After removing it, carefully examine inside of bird to see that no piece is left in, and also to see that no foreign substances, such as feathers, etc., have gotten in. If any have, it is necessary to remove them, for, if allowed to re- main they are liable to cause inflammation. Sometimes a feather or part of the testicle may drop among the bowels; if this occurs, move bowels around with probe (Figure 6) until the object is found, then remove with Curved Spoon Forceps. When the operation is performed remove the Spreader at once and the skin will very soon slip back over the cut and heal inashort time. Never sew the cut, as it will heal just the same as any other small flesh wound. The bird can now be turned over on its right side, cut made and testicle removed in exactly the same manner as just described for the left side. Both testicles may be taken out with the one incision but to the learner we would say this is attended with more difficulty than the two incisions. The other testicle being situated so far over on the other side, there is more difficulty in reaching it, besides danger in piercing artery running back of first testicle. To an experienced party there is no danger in removing both testicles from one incision, but to those who have not that degree of confidence given by prac- tice we would recommend the two ents. The bird recovers just as quickly as though one cut was made, and the opera- tion is performed equally as quick, if not quicker. If both testicles are removed from one cut, the lower must always be taken out first, for if top one is first removed, the small amount of blood that may follow will cover lower one, keep- ing it from view. As soon as the operation is performed the bird should be released. Carry him carefully by the wings, taking hold close CAPONS AND CAPONIZING. 153 to the body, to a cool coop or room without roosts or fixtures to induce flying, as such exercise is apt to open the wound and retard healing. Give him at once plenty of fresh water and all the soft food he wants. He will go to eating and take care of himself and show no signs that he has been in any way molested. The second or third day after capon- izing look the birds over, as in breathing, the air generally gets under the skin, causing ‘‘wind-puff,’’ a slight swelling. Simply prick through the skin at the sides with a sharp needle. Press the wind out gently and thecapon will be relieved. This should be done from time to time for ten days or so when the wound wiil be so healed that it would be diffi- cult to tell where the iucision was made. At this time the eapons may be givenfull range and should be fed as you would feed any poultry that is growing rapidly. Capons do not mature till a year old and will often continue to grow till eighteen months or two years old, but usually it is not profitable to keep them till that age. Neither is it profitable to kill before a year old. The price andthe time of year when the birds are a year old will help to determine whether to kill at a year old or keep a while longer. They are some- times kept till older to mother little chicks. THE OPERATING TABLE. There are numerous styles of tables on which caponizing may be done. Some of them are quite elaborate, and have considerable machinery about them. For all practical pur- poses, the top of an ordinary barrel (see illustration A) meets all requirements, admits of the bird being easily se- cured, and brings it to the proper height for the operation. It costs practically nothing, as an empty barrel may always be had for a few cents if there should not chance to be one on the place. The illustration B shows how a good caponizing board (or table) can be constructed by the use of Pilling’s Im- proved Staple A to slide over the wings of the bird. The staple has two fenders, about one inch from the points, to prevent forcing thé bird’s wings too close together, as would be the case without them. The cross-bar on staple allows you to use the upper part for a handle. This will be found 154 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. very convenient during caponizing. One point of staple is longer than the other; this enables it to enter the board much easier. By cutting six or seven holes in the board it will take any size bird. B is the strap loop with a pin TasLE A—The above, photographed from life, illustrates method of holding fowl ready for caponizing. across the top to prevent strap from falling through the board when not in use. C is the weight (at other end of strap) for keeping feet down. This table is very good for those who propose caponizing on a large scale. The entire construction (as shown in illus- TaBLE B—Can easily and cheaply be made and is suitable for those who intend eaponizing on a large scale. tration) is very simple and easily made. For those, however, who do not propose caponizing on an extensive scale, we would recommend the top of a barrel. Whichever method is used, make it a point to have plenty of sunlight and the table so situated that the light will strike squarely on the fowl. You cannot have too much light during the operation. CAPONS AND CAPONIZING. 155 DRESSING CAPONS. When your capons are ready for market select and shut up those you wish to dress and give them no food or water for twenty-four hours previous to killing; then proceed to dress, as described on page 94. When completed, your bird will appear as above. THE PROFITS OF CAPONIZING. Samuel Cushman, Poultry Manager at the Rhode Island Agricultural Experiment Station, has. been carrying on a 156 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. series of experiments to get at the facts as regards the profits in caponizing. During 1891 and 1892 he experimented with five different lots. In each case cockerels of the same breed, size and age were fed in comparison with those caponized. From his ‘summary’ we gather the following facts: Caponizing was easily learned and successfully performed by following book directions, but more quickly and sat- isfactorily by witnessing the operation. Birds apparently suffered but little pain from the opera- tion and the per cent of loss was small. Birds thus changed grew larger in frame, matured later, became quiet and contented, did not crow or fight and their flesh remained soft and tender. Those weighing two pounds or less were most easily and safely caponized, but the larger the birds, provided they had not commenced to crow and their combs had not developed, the more quickly they recovered. The only birds that died under the operation were those that had developed combs. The old Chinese tools, when their use was understood, were found most satisfactory of all. Of the Brahma-Cochin cross, it was seven months before the capons equaled ‘the uncastrated birds in weight, and they did not average one pound heavier in ten months. The Langshan rooster, although weighing but one-sixth of a pound more than the Langshan capon at the commence- ment of the experiment, kept ahead in weight for seven months. The Plymouth Rock capon equaled the roosters in weight in less than two months and gained on them the rest of the season, but did not average more than three-quarters of a pound heavier at any time. The Indian Game capons were five months in catching up with the roosters and were not a quarter of a pound heay- ier eight months after the operation. The Brahma-Cochins gained the least during the first year, but made the largest and heaviest birds at eighteen months. The Plymouth Rocks recovered less readily, but they CAPONS AND CAPONIZING. 157 were operated upon when the weather was warmer, fifteen days later than the Langshan. The Langshan was less affected by the operation, but was larger at the time it was performed. Indian Games and their crosses were harder to do and should be taken when younger. 4 These experiments show less gain in weight as the resuit of caponizing than we were led-to expect by published ac- counts. The tender fiesh and the ability to take on fat seemed to be the only gain of importance. The plan of sponging the wound immediately after the operation with an antiseptic solution, requires further study to get defixite results. By the aid of a physician's head mirror, we were able to operate quite satisfactorily by lamplight. Those wishing to produce only a limited number of capons find it more profitable to secure the services of an ex- pert, if one can be found within a reasonable distance, than to buy instruments and attempt the work themselves. NOTES ON EXPERIMENTS. Writers on caponizing compare the price of capons at maturity with the price of roosters at maturity. To be sure, if the cockerels are to be kept until they must be sold as old fowl, meanwhile fighting and running their flesh off, it would certainly pay well to caponize and keep them until nearly a year old; but they ignore the fact that early cock- erels weighing five to six pouuds when they are soft and ten- der, will bring as much or more per pound than a nine or twelve pound capon that has been kept twice as long. Quick returns are desirable, and the danger of loss by disease de serves consideration. Had the Brahma-Cochin roosters of the second experi- ment been killed December 1, when they would have been beyond the tender stage, they would have dressed about seven pounds each and brought but twelve cents per pound (prob- ably several cents less), or eighty-four cents. In July the same birds would have dressed about three and three-quarter pounds and would have brought thirty-two cents per pound or $1.20. If sold a month later, in August, although they 158 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. would have weighed more they would have brought less, say four and three-quarter pounds dressed at twenty-four cents, or $1.14. This may be compared with a seven-pound dressed capon at twenty-two cents in January, $1.65 (forty-five cents for five months’ feed) or a nine-pound dressed capon at twenty- six cents in April, $2.34 ($1.20 for bird in August and $1.20 for nine months’ feed and care). This estimate is based on the weights of birds as recorded, and the market prices, in Boston, Mass., and New York City. These prices are for the very best quality of native fresh dressed poultry. We found that capons (Western) were a drug iv the Bos- ton market in February, 1892, and could be bought for twenty- two to twenty-five cents per pound. The demand is less here than in New York, where they are more appreciated or better known. The sale of capons has been hurt in some instances by sell- ing pullets and roosters with small combs plucked like capons, but no one who knows need be deceived if the feathers and head are left on. When the market is bare of fresh summer raised poultry and everything but frozen stock or small- sized winter chicks are scarce (from January to June) there is a demand for a large tender ‘‘roaster’’ and capons fill the bill. They usually bring the best price in April and May when they are becoming scarce. Before chickens were so ex- tensively raised at all times of the year by artificial means, capons brought high prices. While visiting the New York markets we learned that great quantities of capons are received about January 1. The finest specimens and the greatest number are from New Jersey. None are received from the East, and those from the west are of poorer quality and contain a large proportion of “slips,” although they are growing better each season. At this time (December, 1892) there is hardly a limit to the demand for capons weighing eight pounds or over, and ‘‘Philadelphia’’ capons bring twenty cents and Western eighteen cents. Large birds sell the best. The heavier the better. When ten-pound birds bring twenty-two cents, twenty-five cents will be given for twelve-pounders, and twenty-eight cents for CAPONS AND CAPONIZING. 159 those weighing fourteen pounds. Capons killed at ten or eleven months of age are preferred, as they get coarse and “soggy’’ if kept until twelve months old or longer. March hatched capons should be killed in January. ‘rhe birds bought in January are placed in freezers and gradually sold during the winter. The supply is always exhausted before July. Prices begin to rise the latter part of February aud continue to go up until there are none in the market. They are usually scarce in April and May. In the latter part of May, 1891, one New York firm could have sold a ton of capons at twenty-six to twenty-eight cents per pound in one day if they had had them. On July 7, 1892, capons weighing nine and ten pounds were selling at retail in Fulton market for thirty-five cents per pound. Seasons when grain is high, capons are not so extensively produced and the price is firmer. Frozen capons cannot compare with those freshly killed in spring and early summer. WHEN TO MAKE CAPONS AND THE TIME TO SELL. Judging from these results and-a study of the markets the best chance of profit by the production of capons would be in caponizing late chicks that ordinarily would be fit for market as broilers or roasters when the prices are the lowest, and too old to sell as tender chicken$ in January and Febru- ary. Cockerels that were hatched in June, July or August, especially if of the large, early maturing kind like Plymouth Rocks and Wyandottes crossed on Brahmas or Langshans, castrated in September, October and November, and marketed in March, April, May and June, when they would have reached their best, would be the most profitable and bring the highess price. Such birds are often sold alive by the pound very low in the city markets or by those who have no room to winter them. Farmers who have cheap food, who are far from shipping points, and therefore kill and ship all at one time in cold weather, might profitably make capons of all roosters. Those who keep birds until maturity for their own table should do the same. There will be little gained by caponizing birds in May or June if they are to be mar- keted by Christmas, asthe birds have not sufficient time to fill out. 160 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. James Rankin, the noted duck raiser, says: ‘{ had,some experience in caponizing twenty years ago, and found the business very profitable, as the birds readily brought from thirty to thirty-five cents a pound. At present, when capons bring but little more than half that price, it is not nearly so profitable, and for this reason I have given it up. I can get out a Brahma chick the latter part of January or the first of February, put him upon the market the first of June, whena little over four months old,when he will dress six pounds,and get $3 for him as a roaster, while a capon which [ had capon- ized and kept for nearly a year, though he weighed eight or nine pounds, would bring me no more money and would have cost nearly double in both care and food. Sol find de- cidedly more money in growing roasters than I can possibly find in caponizing.”’ Early this month, January, 1894, W. P. Leggett, of New York, says: Having looked carefully into the capon business, it suits me best to sell my surplus cockerels (100 to 250 per year) as they are. Turkeys and the Asiatic breeds of poultry take the edge off the capon market. Capons need fourteen to eighteen months to get fnll growth. Cockerels, if separated from all females early, and kept apart, get fat and develop breast very much more rapidly than those of same age run- ning with the females, and do not get at all strong, and the sinews do not develop or get at all tough; therefore the meat is finer flavored and more tender. Early-hatched Plymouth Rock and Light Brahma cock- erels should now weigh eight to nine and nine to ten pounds respectively; capons of same hatch, very little if any more. For example, last year I had about 100 cockerels that I held till after the New York poultry show to sell as breeders. March 31, those not sold, I killed and sold at wholesale in Poughkeepsie, receiving eighteen cents per pound dressed. Light Brahmas averaged ten and one-half pounds, and White and Barred Plymouth Rocks nine pounds. Capons in same market were retailing at twenty-five cents, and only weighed seven toeight pounds. These cockerels were sold by their side for twenty-four cents. ; Bear in mind the market has all todo with the profits. CAPONS AND CAPONIZING. 161 Tf you are near a city, and can sell at retail or on order, you may come out ahead. For if you are going near your market and can deliver a few without loss of time or expense, do not compare your profits with one who has to makea trip ex- pressly to reach his market. Let me here quote current prices “from the finest retail market in Poughkeepsie: Chickens, good, eighteen .cents per pound; extra, twenty cents; good capons, twenty cents; extra, twenty-two cents. Never having raised cross-bred birds expressly for eapons, I cannot speak of their weights, as I raise only pure- bred. It is asserted tliat first-cross cockerels grow faster and mature faster than thoroughbreds. Another writer says: ‘‘The profit in caponizing seems to come from buying young roosters in the city market at live-weight figures and turning them into capons to feed through the winter. Few think it pays to raise capons from the eggs.”’ It seems to us that the whole question, like all others in the poultry line, resolves itself into one of circumstances, surroundings, locality and market facilities. At this writing, February, 1894, dressed roosters in the Chicago market are 51g to 6 cents per pound and capons 12 to 1244 cents. These are not like the prices formerly received in Eastern markets, but they show how capons are appreciated. Money has been and can be made with capons. There are those who can make more with them than any other branch of poultry farming. The question for each to decide is, Is it I? POULARDES. Pullets are converted into poulardes by depriving them of the power of producing eggs. In France the ovary is usually extirpated. This is needless, as simply dividing the oviduct with a sharp knife is enough. The flank is exposed as in caponizing, but the incision should be made close to the side bone. The lower bowel will then be seen, and close be- side it the oviduct, which is easily drawn forward with a blunt hook and cut across. This stops the development of the ovary, and causes the bird to attain more than its normal size. Capons and poulardes, as a rule, will weigh about one- 162 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BooK. fifth more than the same birds in their natural state; but the flesh is whiter and more delicate, and the bird is plumper upon the table. It seems to us that, however much cockerel meat may be be excelled by capon meat, it is hardly worth while to take the risk and trouble to poulardize pullets, for it is hard to beat a fat hen roasted, after her usefulness as a layer is past. os : (G8 The Philadelphia Caponizing Set,with full directions for using, can be had of the Farm, FIELD AND FIRESIDE, post- paid, for $2.50. CHAPTER VII. INCUBATORS AND BROODERS. It is now generally admitted that chicks can be hatched ‘and raised by incubators and brooders as well as by hens. Artificial incubation is no longer an experiment. ‘Thousands and thousands of chickens and other poultry are profitably reared each year that never see a hen or other feathered mother. The incubator way has many advantages over the old “setting hen.’? Those who tried to raise poultry before the days of incubators know how trying it wasto have to wait tilla hen wanted to sit before any early chickens could be had; sometimes it seemed as though biddie would never get. ready for business, and when she did, if given a sitting of choice eggs the probabilities were that she would break several, and perhaps go and leave the rest just a few days before she should ‘‘come off.’”? If none were broken it was very often the case that when off for feed the hen stayed from the nest so long that the eggs became chilled and the hatch was very unsatisfactory. All these- troubles are gone since the days of incubators. Iffertile eggs are put into a good incubator you may expect a large proportion of them to produce live chickens. : There are great factories both East and West where in- cubators and brooders are turned out yearly. Our Directory indicates where some of them are located. Each maker con- siders his the best, just as every mother thinks her baby is the nicest one, and will point out in what respect his excels all others. All incubators that are worthy the name are constructed with the same ends in view—uniformity of heat’ sufficient moisture, and conditions as near like the ideal sit- ting hen as possible. The way heat is supplied, moisture obtained and the eggs cared for differs in the various 164 ‘* * LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. cams “ti I il ANE A My é al LATEST IMPROVED NO. 2 (200-EG@G SIZE) EXCELSIOR INCUBA TOR. INCUBATORS AND BROODERS. 165 machines, and it would be’ impracticable, if not impossible, to givea minute account of them all ina book the size of this. Following is the detailed description of the Improved Excelsior Incubator, patented and manufactured by Geo. H. Stahl, Quincey, 011. The accompanying illustration shows just how the No. 2 size, which holds 200 eggs, 1ooks when filled and ready for business. Asto its construction: The walls are double, even to the doors. The outer casing is made of thoroughly kiln-dried oak or ash, of first quality and paneled. ‘The inner casing is made of pine. This gives w wall double all around, with a dead-air space between. This combination offers the greatest possible resistance to heat and cold, and its non-conducting power is so great that you ean place the machine in a room where the temperature is sixty degrees, regulate it there, and the temperature may fall to zero or rise to ninety-five degrees, and the variation inside of the machine will be very slight. It has double doors, the inner one of glass, through which the eggs and thermometer may be seen. The outer one is of paneled wood, which is kept closed, except whenit is desired to see the thermometer or turn the eggs. MODE OF HATCHING. As the hen supplies the necessary heat to bring forth her young by sitting on the eggs, they are heated from above. So with the Improved Excelsior Incubator—the heat is sup- plied from the top by the use of a tank which is filled with water, the water being heated by a lamp which is fastened to the end of the incubator, as shown in cut—the lamp chimney extending into the tank heater. THE TANK. The tank is built of the best grade of galvanized iron (heater lined with copper), and where-exposed to heat or moisture is japanned, making it very durable. There are no pipes to clog up or get out of order, and the tank is easily removed by simply unscrewing the top of the incubator. ‘The tank is so constructed that the water is kept in constant circulation through the heater, which leeps it hot, and im- parts its heat to all parts of the egg-chamber alike. se 166 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. The manufacturer claims this makes the most success-. ful heating device ever used in an incubator. THE TWO REGULATORS. The regulator is to an incubator what the governor is to au steam engine; and as it would be folly to attempt to suc- cessfully run a steam engine without a governor it would be greater folly to attempt to hatch eggs in an incubator that was not furnished with a reliable regulator for upon the regulator depends the uniform and proper temper- ature and the proper ventilation necessary to hatch eggs. On the Improved Excelsior there are two separate regu- lators, each acting independent of the other, so that either can be used separately or both at the same time - one regu- lating the flame of the lamp, the other acting upon a valve over the boiler flue, and in a measure controling the tem- perature of the water before it enters the tank. The first is composed of a thermostatic bar, so placed and connected as to give many times the action and power of the ordinary rod. It is near the surface of the eggs, so as to regulate the heat at that level. This regulator is sensi- tive to the least change of heat, and very powerful; and in- stead of suddenly changing the flame from one extreme to the other - either very high or very low—it regulates the flame to give the required heat. The action is regular and gvradu- ated to the needs of the machine; if in a very warmr om, a low flame is produced; if the room grows colder the flame increases; and if the temperature of the room continues to fall, the flame grows larger until the full power of the lamp is turned on. : There is no clockwork, electric batteries or other con- trivances to get out of order. Neither doesit require an experienced person to operate it, as it takes care of itself. The second, or valve regulator, is a single thermostatic bar, suspended above the eggs, in the egg-cham%er. The regulation of the machine is adjusted so that the lamp flame will keep the egg-chamber at the right tempera- ture. The regulator of the escape-valve is then adjusted at 104 degrees (or at any desired point); should the temperature of the room from any unexpected cause rise above its usual INCUBATORS AND BROODERS. 167 degree enougn to affect the incubator, or should the lump, through neglect, fail to regulate perfectly, the valve will be- gin to open as soon as the heat of the egg-chamber reaches 104 degrées, thus making it impossible to overheat the eggs. MOISTURE. An incubator may not vary two degrees in temperature in twenty-four hours, the egg-chamber may be ever so well ventilated, and yet « large percentage of fertile eggs not hatch, simply because the eggs were not supplied with proper moisture. Ample provision is made for supplying moisture in the Improved Excelsior Incubator. Shallow galvanized iron pans filled with water are placed in the egg-chamber be- low the egg trays, and the heat slowly evaporates the water sufficiently to supply the necessary moisture to the eggs above. THE EGG TRAYS which are furnished with the Improved Excelsior Incubator are constructed of a material that, after much experiment- ing, has been found to be the best adapted to the purpose. The egg tray in the Excelsior is very simple. The eggs can be turneda trayful atatime. It is not done by turning a erank, but with an extra tray which accompanies- each machine. This turns every egg without handling them. The trays are all made to fit precisely, so that in turning them the eggs are not jarred or broken. As shown in the illustra- tion the egg trays are in one tier, thus insuring the same degree of heat to all eggs. THE LAMP. The lamp which supplies the necessary heat isan all metal safety lamp, constructed especially for the Improved Excelsior Incubator, and is supplied with a burner of large heating capacity. The Cut-Off Burner is also constructed especially fcr this machine, and is very simple and reliable. It is made witha brass movable sleeve which encircles the lamp-wick. This sleeve is raised and lowered to regulate the flame of the lamp; this movement also keeps the burner free from cinders or charred wicking, and there is no possible chance for it to cor- 168 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. rode, get sticky, and consequently become clogged up. In fact, it is a complete success. * The chimney furnisbed with the Improved ‘Excelsior Incubator is also metal, with a mica opening, so that the blaze can be as easily seen and regulated as with a glass chimney. A reliable, esvecially designed incubator ther- mometer is furnished with each machine. GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR RUNNING INCUBATORS. Every incubator and brooder manufacturer gives specific directions for running his machine and caring for the chicks after they are hatched and in the brooder, but there are some general directions that are applicable to all incu- bators: 1. An incubator can be more successfully operated in a room of even temperature, and it should be placed where uo. cold drafts can strile it. 2. Use fresh, perfect eggs, of even size and shape. No rough, ill shaped or overly large ones, or those of under size for the breed that produced them. 3. Keep the temperature of the machine at 103°. Do not cool the eggs. 4. Chickens may die in the shell from too much moisture, too high temperature, too low temperature, lack of consti- tutional vigor of parents, too frequent opening of the incu- bator, or because the eggs are from hens that are overfed and fat. 5. If the temperature is kept too low the chick may ~ hatch, but it will be after time; if too high, the chicks may come out the nineteenth day. 6. Do not use eggs picked up anywhere they may be had and expect success. 7. Eggs from hens that are confined and overfed will not hatch, or will produce puny and weak chicks. 8. Incubators with a capacity of 200 eggs, or less, will give the best satisfaction to beginners—in fact, to anyone, unless situated so a large number of fresh, fertile eggs can be readily obtained. 3 9. The down of a newly hatched chick is no protection INCUBATORS AND BROODERS. 169 from cold, and in winter great care must be exercised that no chick becomes chilled. 10. Like full-grown poultry, chicks need exercise. Keep them busily scratching in light litter furnished for the pur- pose. 11. Keep currents of air from passing over the chicks when in the brooders.. If bowel disease appears it is usually due to colds induced principally from lack of warmth at night. , 12. When chicks'droop ard appear sleepy, look for large gray lice on the heads or necks. 13. Dry feed is best for chicks, fed three times a day, but scatter millet seed or other small grain in the litter to induce them to scratch. A good authority on brooder raised chicks says they should have ‘‘rolled’”’ dry oats for their first food, scattered where they can pick it up. Stale bread crumbs, dipped in fresh milk, are also good. These should be placed in little troughs. After the fourth day give the bread and milk for the morning meal, rolled oats at noon, and cracked wheat and cracked corn at night, with occasion- ally a little chopped eggs or meat. After they are ten days old feed them anything they will eat, compelling them to seratch as much as possible. 14. Supply water in such a way that the chicks cannot get themselves wet. Furnish grit in the shape of coarse sand, pounded shells, or some hard material. 15. The main requirement for successiul raising of fate brooder chicks is warmth. If the chicks crowd together at night, you may be sure there is lack of warmth. If they separate under the brooder they are comfortable. In winter, the temperature of the brooder should be not less than 90° and not more than 100°. Examine the heating apparatus, as well as the position of the chicks, at bedtime, also early in the morning. 16. Keep the brooder clean. 17. Feed a variety of food, but let cracked wheat and cracked corn bea part of the ration after the chicks are old enough to eat them. Give cut clover hay. for green food. Fresh milk may be given, but not sour. 170 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. BROODERS are about as numerous as incubators, and it will answer our purpose to here describe only the Improved Excelsior Brooder, also made by Geo. H. Stahl, Quincy, Illinois. This artificial mother may be used indoors or outdoors—that is, may be used in the brooder houses in winter, or out of doors in warm weather. The accompanying illustration gives.a good idea of this brooder, which, in its construction, is a happy combination of the ‘‘top’’ heat and ‘‘bottom’’ heat, systems. The good points claimed for this brooder are: 1. An equable heat on all parts of the brood floor. . A perfect ventilation without draft on the chicks., . Entire freedom from chicks crowding. . Ease of cleaning—no small matter. . Freedom from all danger of fire—a point to be con- sidered. The construction is thus described: The heater box has no bottom, but the top isa metal plate. Over this is an air chamber, and above this is a floor on which the chickens stand; and over this is the adjustable cover, surrounded by a woolen cloth, notched to allow the chickens to run in and out, as they would under the mother hen. Under this cover are four warm air pipes through which the warm, pure air comes from the air chamber above the metal plate. It rises to cover where it flows out, among and over the chickens, giving perfect ventilation, and, at the same time, carrying off all poisonous gases, and with the warmth of the floor keeping the excrement dry and odorless, and in condition to be easily removed with a brush. The cover being the same height as the chickens, they can- not climb upon each other, and there being no solid corners to crowd into, there can be no smothering. In fact, it is a perfect mother for chickens. It can be used anywhere. ct ke fo If it is desired, the Improved Excelsior Brooder is fur- nished with a folding glass cover, as shown in the illustra- tion opposite. This cover allows the brooder to be as lightas possible inside, which some claim is a great benefit to the chicks. INCUBATORS AND BROODERS. 171 IMPROVED EXCELSIOR BROODER, WITH GLASS COVER. L2 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. TESTING EGGS. ‘In the days of the old hen method of raising chickens the eggs were put under the hea and allowed to stay there three weeks, if not. broken in the meanwhile, whether good or bad or indifferent. In these days of progressive incubator hatchiag, the up to-the-time chicken raiser tests the eggs he places in his machine and removes the infertile ones, reserv- ing them to feed his newly hatched chicks. This testing of eggs not only prevents waste of raw material, but leaves room for fertile eggs, and conserves the heat of the incuba- tor, as a live chick produces more heat than a dead egg While the majority of persons who have good incubators make good hatches, there are some who would make decid- edly better ones if they would post up a little ona few im- portant points which are easily learned by practice of casas and inexpensive experiments. Few persons understand testing eggs properly. Some have a very imperfect tester; some are unable to detect the infertile eggs closely—they cannot distinguish «a dead germ from a live one, nora weak from a strong one. All eggs should be tested on the fifth or sixth day; at this test all clear or infertile eggs should be removed. ‘To becoire expert in testing eggs during incubation, it is nec- essary to havea good tester. By use of a good egg-tester ‘and the accompanying illustrations, any person can, with a little practiee, learn to test eggs rapidly and accurately; the illustrations show exactly how the eggs look in the tester. To become an adept in testing eggsfor hatching, one has only to use a good tester, his,eyes and a little judgment. As a lesson or experiment, try this on the fifth or sixth day after the eggs have been in the incubator. Break in separ- ate saucers (carefully) one which you suppose (after examin- ing with the téster and finding as shown in Tig. 1 on page 173) to be a good, strong, fertile egg; one which seems to be’ fertile, but weak; one that is doubtsult-that is, one which you cannot decide whether it is fertile or infertile, and one that seems decidedly infertile. Break one at a time, ex- INCUBATORS AND BROODERS. ‘APPEARANCE OF EGGS AFTER BEING IN INCUBATOR, 174 LLOYD’S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. amine carefully, making mental note. This first test should be on the fifth or sixth day. A strong, fertile egg will, on the fifth day (temperature having been kept at 102°, 103° or 104°) show a dark spot which will float and show veins running from it, looking somewhat like a spider; a weaker one will show a spot but is cloudy looking and muddled. Such eggs are supposed to be fertile. Those which look clear are infertile. -Do not mis- take the yolk for the germ or chick. All infertile eggs are not perfectly clear. By breaking a few tested eggs and studying their contents, carrying in your mind’s eye the appearance presented through the shell before breaking, you will be able to distinguish; having broken a strong, fertile egg, select another from the unbroken eggs, and see how it compares with the former. Then, having broken a fer- tile but weak egg, select another from the unbroken ones and see how well you can match the germ before you. Then break a few apparently clear and infertile ones, and you will be surprised to find some fertile eggs among them if your tester is inferior, or you are careless. You will also be sur- prised to find how easy it is to train the eye to detect and classify minute things by a little systematic practice. There is decided economy in this egg-breaking at the commencement of business, for it will save eggs in the end. Do not blame the sitting hen or the incubator for poor hatches unless you know that your eggs are fresh as well as fertile. Notwithstanding the possibility of fertile eggs bringing out chicks after being kept even three weeks, we never knew any one who did not prefer fresh eggs for setting. Some claim they would not have eggs for hatching that are over eight days old at any price—would not use them if given them. Others claim just as good results from eggs kept for weeks. Here is the testimony of one such: ‘‘We tried an experiment in that direction. We kept the eggs where they were as cool as possible, without freezing, the temperature not going below forty degrees nor above sixty degrees, and we turned them half around three times a week. Eggs that were kept in this manner for six weeks hatched as INCUBATORS AND BROODERS. 175 ¢ well as those that were fresh, and the chicks were strong and active.”’ li fresh eggs from healthy hens, fertilized by vigorous cocks, be used, they will hatch a large percentage of strong, healthy chickens. In explanation of the illustration on page 173, Fig. 1 shows a strong fertile egg as seen in the tester on [the fifth or sixth day. B, the dark spot, is the live germ; AA are the blood vessels extending out from it. This germ, B, is seen by placing the egg against the aperture of the tester, and revolving it between the thumb and finger until the side on which the germ has formed comes nearest the eye. The spot B, will be seen plainly, often surrounded by a small cloud, as shown; the germ at this time is quite lively, and can be seen to move up and down. This is a strong, fertile egg, and should hatch under a good hen or in a good incubator. Ina well fertilized egg the blood vessels should show plainly, but the germ is not always seen as plainly, varying with the color and thickness of the shell, and the power of the tester used. C shows about the average air bulb in an egg on the fifth or sixth day of incubation, though it may vary accord- ing to the freshness of the egg, and some eggs have larger air bulbs than others. Fig. 2 shows a weak or imperfectly fertilized egg as seen in the tester on the fifth or sixth day. H is an oblong or circular blood vessel which has started, but nothing more; there is no heart, nor any part of a chick started. This egg will not hatch, but will decay if left in the hatcher, hence it should be discarded—removed from the incubator, or from under the hen. The small dark spot, G, is a weak germ, without blood vessels, only partially fertilized.* It has died after a start, and of course will not hatch. Both H and G **A partially fertilized germ" means one that from one of several causes was not strong enouzh to live and grow. Among these causes are cocks that are too old, an insufficient proportion of male birds for the number of females; old or de- bilitated hens, overfat hens, too close confinement of breeding stock. You may find G (Fig. 2) among eggs which you believe or know are not overa week old, and ordinarily the eggs were good and fertile. It frequently happens that an egg will remain in the nest while several, or maybe a dozen hens lay there, and the succession of layers keep the egg warm enough to start incubation, or it ° 176 LLOYD'S MODERN POULTRY BOOK. may sometimes be seen in the same egg. It will not hatch. F, the air space, may be seen in the same egg. The egg may be comparatively fresh, and yet show both H and G. Fig. 3 shows a stale egg, a clouded egg, a doubtful ege.