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ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY

New YorK STATE COLLEGES
OF
AGRICULTURE AND HoME ECONOMICS

AT

CORNELL UNIVERSITY

 

EVERETT FRANKLIN PHILLIPS

BEEKEEPING LIBRARY

 

 

 

 

 
Practical Bee-Feeping:

BEING

PLAIN INSTRUCTIONS TO THE AMATEUR FOR THE
SUCCESSFUL MANAGEMENT OF THE
HONEY BEE.

ILLUSTRATED.

REWRITTEN AND ENLARGED BY

FRANK CHESHIRE, A.C.P.
(Editor of the Apiary Department of ‘‘ The Country.’’)

Lonpon :
«HE BAZAAR’’ OFFICE, 170, STRAND, W.C.
|
@ ABe3g

LONDON :
PRINTED BY ALFRED BRADLEY, 170, STRAND, W.c.
PREFACE.

‘Wuitst it cannot be denied that bees may be, even profitably, kopt
by those miserably ignorant of their habits and necessities, it is also
true that to achieve considerable success, and to make our bees our
companions and the ministers of our pleasures, we must regard bee
keeping as an art only to be acquired by attentive observation. This
-art can indeed be learned by some more readily than others, yet there are
but few who, with a little care, patience, and painstaking, may not ex-
perience in a greater or less degree both the enjoyment and the profit
‘that are to be found in the possession of a few prosperous hives. That
knowledge and attention are of the highest moment in this matter is
apparent from the fact that some will secure that gratification which
comes from the successful prosecution of a hobby with not small profits
into the bargain, in those very localities where the less instructed will
realize little but the mortification of continued failure with balances
persistently adhering to the wrong side of the ledger. The writer has
known of cases where, with the same individual and the same set of
hives, mourning has been turned into rejoicing when error and mis-
management have been displaced by intelligent instruction in correct
methods of operation. Much progress has been made within the last few
years, but even now it is true that bee keepers are the many, bee masters
the few; and let us remember that there is no royal road into the ranks
of the latter—which can be reached only by time, observation, and that
natural aptitude which we call tact. We meet not unfrequently with
glowing accounts of the charms of bee keeping, amongst which the money
returns cut no inconsiderable figure. Stimulated by these the reader
perchance purchases 2 or 3 stocks, places them in his garden, and after a
year or two of comparative or total failure gives up his bees, if indeed
any yet remain, as a delusion and a snare: wu little proper instruction
would have turned failures into successes and losses into gains. To
supply such help is the object of the following pages, which the author
now commits to his readers with the hope that their mission may be
abundantly useful.

FRANK CHESHIRE.
Aston, W.
CHAPTER I.

Sagi Pee

NATURAL HISTORY OF THE BEE.

‘Tue bee is an insect and as such passes through changes analogous to those
of the silkworm or blow-fly. Every one knows that the former is pro-
duced from an egg laid by the moth, and that, after feeding voraciously,
‘it spins about it a cocoon, in which it remains encased until it emerges a
perfect insect; and that the egg of the latter produces the gentle, which
turns into the brown pwpa whence emerges the fly like to its parent.
Taking these changes as parallel to those exhibited in the hive, we have
a sort of key by which to remember them.

Honeycomb consists of cells of wax of two sizes, so placed that the
hexagonal ends of twenty-seven of the smaller and nineteen of the larger
cover a square inch of the surface of the comb on each side. These cells
are not used by the bees as storehouses for their sweets alone, as each
one may be utilized as wu cradle in which the young may be nurtured and
matured. :

Each hive in a normal condition contains but one mother bee, com-
monly called the queen; who alone has the power of laying eggs, and
consequently of producing young. The mass of the population receive
the name of worker-bees, because upon them falls the labour of feeding
the young, building comb, gathering honey, &c., while generally between
the months of March and August, and abnormally at other times, there
exists « larger or smaller number of drones or true males. These are
distinguished at sight from the workers, which as we shall see presently
are undeveloped females, by their rounder form and greater size, and
also by their more noisy buzzing flight.

Let us note the history of a worker from the egg which is left by the
mother bee or queen adherent at the end of the cell, and is of pearly white-
‘ness, and long in proportion to its diameter. From this, after three days,
‘a, tiny grub emerges, upon which food is poured by the younger worker-
bees, whilst performing the functions of nurses. This food, which has
undergone digestion in the body of the nurse is absolute nourishment
from which the refuse parts have been drained in her body. The grub
rapidly grows, at first curling itself in the cell, then, as its body becomes
more bulky, it advances its head, and on the sixth day after hatching com-
6 PRACTICAL BEE KEEPING.

mences to surround itself with a whitish silky cocoon. The bees now
enclose it by a covering of wax and pollen not impervious to the air, and in
this condition it is said to be sealed. The creature, now in the quiet obscu-
rity of its tomb-like chamber, begins to develop the more complex organi-
zation of the imago or perfect insect, and in twelve days bites its way out
of its prison house, not only provided with organs of flight and locomotion,
but fully equipped with those varied parts necessary to that circle of labour
which has been traced out for it by the finger of the Creator. The drone
is evolved from an egg deposited in one of the larger cells, and has a his-
tory similar to that of the worker, but twenty-five days instead of some-
thing less than twenty-one, are needed to produce the perfect insect.

Honeycomb when first built by the bees is of beautiful whiteness, but
the operation of breeding in the cells soon stains it of a dark brown
colour, because each bee leaves behind it the shroud in which it had
enveloped itself.

The modus operandi of producing a queen is one of the most singular
features in the economy of the hive. Any egg which would if treated
as already described produce a worker, can by the bees, and at their will, be
converted into a queen. The circumstances rendering « new queen
necessary it would be premature here to explain, but these circumstances
existing, the bees select either afew ordinary worker eggs or young worker
grubs and build around them, commonly by the destruction of three con-
tiguous cells, large cells not unlike acorns inform. (See illustration, in a
subsequent chapter)... The grubs are then fed in # peculiar manner
upon a food known amongst bee keepers as ‘‘ Royal-jelly,”’ the exact
origin of which as distinct from ordinary food for grubs is as yet quite a
mystery. The result of this peculiar treatment is most remarkable. In
sixteen days instead of twenty or twenty-one from the laying of the egg a
queen emerges instead of a worker. Id est, 4 more perfect and fully
developed creature (for a worker is an wndeveloped female) is produced in
one-third less time. It is capable of laying a prodigious number of eggs
(in the breeding season often two thousand a day) whereas a worker is
incapable normally of becoming a mother. The body is longer, its color
lighter, its wings shorter than that of the worker, and unlike the latter
its tongue is incapable of brushing up honey from flowers. It cannot
secrete wax; it has no hollows in the legs for storing bee bread or pollen.
In short, to the initiated the queen in head, in body, in legs, in sting,
everywhere, is unlike the worker. Its instincts are entirely changed. It
has no disposition to leave the hive for honey gathering. Its term of lifeis
extended from a few months at most, to four or five years, and all this
and much more is the result, so far as yet appears, of feeding. The
function of the drone is to meet the young queen at her flight, which she
usually takes when about seven or eight days old, when in two days more:
she becomes a mother.
STRAW HIVES. ¢

CHAPTER If.
wie

STRAW HIVES.

SKEPS—SIZE OF—SUPERS FOR—SUPERING HIVES—-NEIGHBOUR'S
COTTAGE HIVE—FLOOR BOARDS FOR—-PROTECTION OF.

Hrvzs are broadly divisible into two kinds, those in which the combs are
fixed and those in which the combs can be removed singly and replaced
at the will of the operator. The latter, called movable comb hives or
frame hives, give ample scope for the best kind of*management, and are
undoubtedly in advance of those older forms with combs fixed. The
common skep or straw hive has still its admirers and it cannot be fairly

      

  
   

   

     

    

Fie. 2.

FLAT-TOPPED Straw Hives,

denied that it is both light, cheap, and handy for the bee keeper,
and comfortable for the bees, while it demands but little skill for
its manufacture, and is equal as a non-conductor of heat to the
best wooden hives. The skep, as commonly seen in the cottager’s
garden, is dome shaped, but it is desirable that the top should be flat or
flattish. It is not generally difficult to get our skeps made to order when
they should not cost more than 2s. each and ought to be large enough to
hold nearly a bushel of bees: 7.¢., contain from 1800 to 2000 cubic inches.
8 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

A rough and ready rule for finding the contents of a round hive like »
skep will be useful. Multiply the internal height by the internal
diameter twice, and take three-fourths of the amount. For example, if
the diameter be 16in. and the height 9in.. 9x 16x16 = 2304 and three-
fourths 2304 = 1728 = the cubic content.

Fig. 1 is a good shape, it is flat-topped, with a 3in. hole in the centre
of the crown. Have the block for the centre hole turned out of a piece
of 13in. wood (Fig. 3). The straw will work
better round it and fit more closely if the edge
be grooved. Work rims on the top and bottom ;
the lower one will steady the hive on the
bottom board; to the upper the super may
be attached. The rim of wood which some per-
sons work on the bottom of the skep does not

Fra. 3, add materially to the durability of the latter
when properly protected from damp, while it certainly makes the interior
less snug during winter.

The super which is to receive the honey for the bee keeper may be
of straw, and of the same diameter as the hive. Wire pins, (common
hair pins will do capitally) passed through the straw in three or four
different parts will effectually keep the super in its place. When first
set up, mark the back part of the hive with a dab of paint; in this way,
should the hive be moved for any pur-
pose, it can be replaced accurately.
The direction of the combs should not
be altered, the bees preferring them
to run from front to back, and not
crosswise. Straw supers are complete
in themselves, while those of wood or
glass require covering in with some
form of jacket to make them equal
in all respects to their more humble

pupetitors ; but, if wood or glass be preferred for the super, then an
adapting board, with 3in. centre hole, tin. thick, must be fastened over
the flat top, and pegged or screwed down, the interstices being filled
with some luting, such as linseed-meal or clay. This board, to prevent
warping, had better be made of mahogany or two pieces of pine one-
eighth of an inch thick each, nailed and clenched together, with the

grain running opposite ways.

If the crown be made of wood, it should not be less than lin. in thick-

. ness, with three holes 2in. in diameter, with zinc slides running in grooves,
as Fig. 4. The board can be best made to fit the straw work by tapering
its edge and pressing it into place, and fixing by two or three nails. If
more expense is not objected to, Neighbour’s improved cottage hive

 

 
STRAW HIVES. 9

(Fig. 5), with glasses and top complete, may be bought for 35s. at Regent-
street. Mr. Neighbour is making these hives larger now than formerly.
Thisis a great improvement. Itis highly
probable that the introduction of so much
foreign blood in the shape of imported
queens has improved our race of bees,
and that they now require for the full
development of their powers greater space
than was once sufficient.

It is very desirable that each hive
should have its own stand :—houses con-

            
     

—<jin- !

taining the hives, for reasons it would be — 4

premature here to explain, are very un- Ss Sa af
Zo

desirable. The stands give much greater Dice a
facility for management if they are not AY EGT va 1B.
fixed in the ground, as some recommend, aes clit
but are of the nuture of stools. If these SSSR
stools are too high they are in danger of A

being blown over, if too low the hives ee Se eee
get damp; about twelve or fourteen

inches will be found suitable. The bottom board should he round and
of the size of the hive, or, the parts lying beyond the hive’s sides catching
snow or rain, quickly wet the hive
walls and make the bees wretched. In
the neighbourhood of chair makers
elm bottom boards can be had very
cheap, but failing these, they may be
made in deal of the form seen in
Fig. 6; the projecting part, B, serving
as an alighting board from which the
bees start and upon which they settle
as they return home laden. Most bee
Keepers decrease their outlay and increase their enjoyment of their hobby
by what may be called apicultural carpentering, and so a good method

 
 
  

 

Fie 6. Hive Sranp.

 

 

Fig. 7, PLAN ror Curtina Fioor Boarps.

of cutting out bottom boards is shown at Fig. 7, which represents the
10 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

plank. Mark at the end of it a semicircle whose radius A g is half the
outside diameter of the hive. If we have no compasses a piece of twine,
a tack and a pencil will be sufficient. Now mark a point J in the semi-
circle in the centre of the width of the board and draw g, l,7. Draw
the next semicircle, with i for centre, and continue as before Now cut
with a bow or key-hole saw through from A to 1, thev from J to mon
second semi-circle and so on, then cut through B and EZ. Each pair of
pieces will make a bottom board, A being brought to C, g to h, and
the points at B remaining together as in Fig. 6. The shaded parts will
supply the battens to fasten the halves together and give fixing for the
legs. With this kind of bottom board an entrance must be cut for the
bees into the hive side. Let this be made from three to four inches long,

 

F

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L
A

   

 

Fig. 8. Pian ror Currine Covers.

and fix to it a sliding door so arranged that the opening may be, if desired,
reduced to jin. square.

Before the hive is ready to place in the position we intend it to occupy,
it must be protected from the weather, as hives of sodden straw are about
the most wretched with which bees can be provided. It could be wished
that all skeps were too large to be covered by American cheese boxes,
but this not being the fact, we will explain how these—which may be
obtained for 3d.—may be made into capital rain tight protectors good for
ten year’s wear. The lid of the box placed on four inverted flower pots
or some bricks, as Mr. Pagden suggests, will make a fairly good bottom.
board, while the box proper forms the case for the hive itself. Before
being used the bottom of it (which will be the top of the hive-case), and
one or two inches down the sides, should be painted well over with hot
STRAW HIVES. 11

pitch. A sheet of newspaper should now be evenly spread over it, when
by the application of a hot iron used after the manner of the laundress,
the pitch is remelted, and well incorporated both with the wood and the
paper ; all cracks are closed and the cover made absolutely rain proof.
In winter, sacking, hay, straw, or fine shavings should be filled in
between the hive and the box. This method of waterproofing will furnish
a useful hint for treating covers for hives of other kinds, the carpentry
of which may not be of the most finished description. Flat earthen pans
(milk pans) are often used to roof skeps, but the largest of them are
too small for skeps such as we recommend. :

We have been very cordially thanked, by some straw hivists who have
felt the insufficiency of milk pans,
for suggesting the felt cover now
described. (See Figs. 8 and 9.)
Felt is sold for 8d. the yard run,
and is 2ft. 8in. wide. It should
be cut as shown in Fig, 8. Make
» notch in a lath 17in. from ‘its
end, at one inch from which bore
a hole with a bradawl, which stick
16in. from the end of the felt at
B, and equally distant, that is 16in., from each edge. With chalk held
in the notch in the lath run round the 2 circle A C E; now place
the awl at A and describe the 4 circle B DF. Cut out the two
covers through F A, B E. Draw their é
straight edges together until one
edge touches the dotted line. Tack
these two edges together into a thin
lath and the cover is in form. The
waste pieces of felt, which will be
very small, will suffice for four straps
to be fastened underneath by clenched
nails and which may be tied to the
hive by a string passing round it.
This will effectually prevent the cover
being blown away in the stiffest gales.
Fig. 9 shows the cover complete; it
will be 24in. in diameter, G H, and
will afford, in consequence of its ire, 10, Rustic Hive Cover oz
greater size, far better protection than Straw Hackzz.

a milk pan, while it costs only 54d. Pitched and ironed or coated with tar
and afterwards sprinkled with hot sand this cover will last many years.

No cover is more rustic, and at the same time more cosy in appearance,
than the straw-hackle, while it is equally good for summer and winters.

 

Fie. 9. Frit Hive Cover.

 
12 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

‘ita manufacture is by no means difficult. The straw having been well
soaked as for thatching, and gathered up into a good sound bundle, in
which all the stalks lie parallel, is securely tied with basket-makers’ twigs
or tarred string. Hoops are then fastened within at K Land MN. The
hackles are now fitted over the form of the hive and left to dry, stiffen,
and set. | A wooden peg or two passed through the hackle above the
hoop into the hive side will prevent the wind disturbing it.

We here point out that saving the cost of w thoroughly good hive-
cover by substituting some inefficient makeshift, is but peor economy.
If the straw domicile be completely screened from the insidious snow and
‘driving rains of winter, the little inhabitants, if in health and fair
numbers; will brave with but little injury the most severe cold of our
climate; but in a skep- boasting no better protection than some rotten
rhubarb leaves, or saturated sack, honey is not only consumed in much
increased quantities, but the effort needed to maintain the temperature
within so far exhausts the vital energies of the bees, that they are unable
to withstand the labour of brood-raising when spring returns, and then
often die off even more rapidly than young bees are produced. ‘‘ Why
this spring-dwindling ?”’ is the inquiry. ‘‘ Why are my bees diminishing
in numbers just as everything is appearing to favour returning activity
and prosperity P’? The reply should not unfrequently be “‘bad wintering.’
Even if the results are not fatal they are damaging, and hives neglected
in the particulars just mentioned swarm later, and are consequently profit-
less in comparison with what they might have been with careful manage-
-ament.
BAR FRAME HIVES, 13

CHAPTER III.

eased Pete

BAR FRAME HIVES.

THE WOODBURY—THE ABBOTT COTTAGE—THE CHESHIRE—THE
SHERRINGTON—THE ABBOTT—THE CARR STEWARTON.

In a short treatise like the present one, a history of the bar frame hive-
would oblige the omission of points of greater practical utility. Suffice
it here to say that Langstroth, in America, and Dzierzon, in Germany,
about forty years since, contrived hives which give such mastery over the
combs, that it became possible to manage bees in a manner previously alto-
gether impracticable.

If a skep be inverted the combs will be found to be arranged in plates
of greater or less regularity about lin. thick and 1} inches from centre to
centre, but as they are fixed to the
roof and partly to the walls of the
skep no satisfactory examination
of the combs can be made without
breaking them from their attach-
ments, and so wholly or in part
destroying the hive. In the mov-
able comb hive the combs may be
lifted out and restored to their
position without damaging bee
handy work in the smallest degree.
The plan by which thisis managed Fie. 11. Woonsury Bar Frame Hive.
in all English frame hives can be
understood by reference to the form introduced by the late and deservedly
celebrated Mr. Woodbury, and which bears his name. The hive is a box
(Fig. 11), the lid of which lifts and discloses frames (in this hive there-
are ten) which have ears or Ings as in Fig. 12 which rest in rabbets on.

 
14 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

‘the hive sides. The frames in the Woodbury hive are kept at a proper
‘distance from each other (1} inches nearly from centre to centre) by
falling into notches made
in the rabbet; but these
notches are now almost, if
not quite, discarded as the
bees glue down the ends
of the frames so firmly
that the unaided fingers
are unable to remove
them, when they need be
wrenched out by some
lever, such as a screw-
Fie. 12. Bar Frauy or Hive. driver, much to the dis-
turbance of the bees. The
frames do not touch the hive, except at the lugs, din. intervening between
the outside of the frame and inside of the hive both at the sides and
bottom; while the lid resting on the sides of the hive does not touch the
top bars by the same distance. Bees placed in such a hive would build
their combs probably in an irregular manner; but if they can be obliged
to construct their waxen tracery within the frames, it is clear that lifting
out a frame will also bring » comb with it which
may be inspected and returned. As bees are dis-
SS posed to begin their combs from any projecting edge,
Mr. Woodbury fashioned the top bar of his frames as
Wy seen in Fig. 13. This will generally secure straight
et building in the greater part of the hive. In a
subsequent chapter explanation will be given of
means of late introduction which make straight building throughout a
certainty.

Bar frame hives demand for their efficient handling a greater amount
of intelligence than skeps, and
this renders their introduction
amongst rural bee keepers a slow
work, but this is not the only
impediment to their universal
ty a \ adoption. Frame hives are neces-
i shh ! sarily more expensive than skeps.
ih Ne : To produce if possible a hive
Fig. 14. Assorr Corracs Ban Frame Hrvn, giving mobility of combs with

price within reach of the cottager,
the British Bee Keepers’ Association offered a prize for the cheapest hive
with frames. The prize was awarded to Mr. Abbott. This hive, Fig. 14,
is simply an unplaned jin. deal box without bottom or top, Woodbury

 

Fie. 13.

| i

 
BAR FRAME HIVES. 15

size, i.e. 144in. each way inside, and 8fin. deep, having nailed around
it slats which project tin. above the sides. Ten rough frames, cut out
with « cutting gauge and
braded together, drop into
this, but have no arrange-
ment for putting them into
position. The spacing has
to be done by eye. Bee
keepers having a couple of
saws and a hammer may
soon construct such w hive,
but having seen several of
them in the apiaries of be-
ginners, we cannot forbear re-
marking that cheapness is not
necessarily economy, and that the cheapness here is not the result of some
ingenious simplification, but is obtained solely at the cost of completeness.
Mr. Abbott also makes a
hive for 6s. 6d., Fig. 15,
which is provided with
roof and bottom board,
and -which,, when well
painted, would be able
to take care of itself on
a stand, although of
course for comfort and
convenience, it cannot
be compared with the
more complete and bet-
ter finished hives. Asa
type of the latter kind,
let us take the Cheshire
Crystal Palace prize hive,
Fig. 16, of which we give
a detailed descriptivn for
the benefit of those bee
keepers who may desire
to become their own hive
makers. The frames here
are of Woodbury size, =
but the arrangements Fie. 16.
given may be easily

adapted to any other dimensions. Fig. 16 represents the hive as it
would stand in the apiary. It cersints of two main portions: the

 

Fic. 15, Aszsotr Cotrage Bar Hive.

 

CHESHIRE Bar Frame Hive.
16 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

super cover, the upper half of what may be denominated the body,.
and the hive proper, in the lower portion of which breeding is carried
on, and where the bees pass the winter. In front of the lower part
may be seen the porch, with its roof consisting of a stout piece of
pine, about 3in. wide, and running completely along the hive face.
This is chamfered off towards the end, the more effectually to carry
away drip, and has a channel near its front edge, which acts as a
gutter, by which the rain is conveyed to its ends. This gutter is shown
in the cross section, Fig. 17, at E. The bottom board of the hive pro-
jects 23in. along the front, so as to form a very convenient alight-
ing board; 10in. of the
central part of this
is grooved, as seen in
Fig. 16, so that should it.
be reached by driving
rain the convex parts re-
main free of water, af-
fording the bees a dry
passage way to the inte-
rior. In showery weather,.
in early spring, bees are
often sacrificed by being
turned wings downwards
before the hive door
upon a chilly pool; but.
by adopting this form
this cause of loss is im-
mensely reduced. The
flight hole is also 10in.
in length, and is formed
by cutting from the hive
wall a piece a full +in.
deep (see G, Fig. 17), F,
Fig. 17, is screwed on
beneath the porch roof
give to it additional
stability and also to provide the groove for two sliding shutters (shown
in Fig. 16), by which the entrance way may be regulated as occasion may
require. Upon the upper part of the ends of these are two small studs
preventing the shutters from meeting, so that the .entrance can only
be reduced to about half an inch. This arrangement prevents the acci-
dental closing of the hive mouth, to the destruction of the colony, while
it admits of its (i.e., the mouth’s) immediate lessening in the event of
robbing, or for the purpose of wintering. Should, however, the absolute

LLLIN

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Fie. 17. Cursuire Bar Frames Hive,
SECTIONAL VIEW.
BAR FRAME HIVES. 17

stopping of the entrance-way be desired the doors may be removed, and
put in, the right on the left, and the left on the right, when they will
meet, as their studs will be on their outer instead of their proximate
ends. In the height of the honey harvest, or near swarming time,
the full length of the mouth may be obtained by simply sliding the
shutters to the end of the alighting board, while during the summer
the fanners will be enabled to pursue their labours in the shade. The
bottom board is so contrived that it can be removed without disturb-
ing the bees, as it slides upon two runners seen beneath it in Fig. 16.
Blocks I and K (Fig. 17) fitted in between these runners and bottom
board press it against the hive body and hold it in position. The legs
are fastened to the hive proper, so that it carries its own stand. This
plan is, in some respects, convenient. During the winter the board
may be easily cleaned and returned without risk of disturbing the
cluster ; but the fixed legs present to the beginner some difficulty in in-
troducing the swarm. So that for the general community of bee keepers
we are not sure that the independent stand is not to be preferred. Hither
form can be supplied by Mr. Lee as desired. When the bottom board is
slipped into position it is stopped by a back piece, H, Fig. 17. The
super cover, the upper part of Fig. 16, or LM N O, Fig. 17, is hinged,
and so contrived by the aid of a chain that it can only open until its
lines, horizontal when in situ, become perpendicular, and vice versé. The
advantage this supplies beyond the ordinary loose case is considerable.
It is often inconvenient to find suitable standing for the latter during
manipulation, while this arrangement provides the bee master with a
table, often of great service when the hive is open, upon which he can
place his smoker, syrup, knife, &c., during his operations. It, moreover,
carries within it a slate with an attached pencil, so that immediate
entry may be made of any noteworthy point. These jottings, compiled
and studied, form no inconsiderable means of increasing the proprietor’s
experience. The other points of the exterior demand little in the way of
explanation. ‘The legs splay, so as to increase the base and give more
secure standing, while the roof, with its ample eaves, precludes the
possibility of the entrance of rain in any weather.

The walls of the hive are double, as may be seen by reference to
-Fig. 17, and have between them a space containing dead air, shown by
the black broad lines. The sides are kept at their proper relative
distances by blocks running above and below the air space. As heat is
conducted by air with extreme slowness, these means prevent the escape
of that generated by the bees during rigorous weather, while they also
exclude the ardour of the sun’s rays during summer. We are commonly
told that straw hives are much drier than wooden ones in winter, and so
it is argued straw is the better material for hive building, the additional
proof of which is supposed to be found in the dampness of the wooden

R
18 | PRACTICAL BEE-REEPING.

band often seen around the straw skep at its base. We must beg to differ
from this deduction, because we see in the non-conductivity of the straw’
its additional dryness. Wooden hives, ceteris paribus, are as dry as
straw ones if they are made equally non-conductive, and this is fully
achieved by double casing with an air space.

In order to give room for the ears of the frames, the inner skin, front.
and back, is made an inch shallower than the outer one. Standing three-
eighths of an inch above
the former are two strips
ENIENIE f Hil] of zinc (1 and 2, Fig. 17),
each about an inch wide,
and which serve to carry
the frames so that they
cannot be  propolised,
while they — i.e, the
frames—can be slidden
backwards and forwards
with the greatest ease
during manipulation. The
top bar of the frame is
gin. thick, so that the
space between the top
bar and the cover ig iin.
The depth of the hive
(D H, Fig. 17) is 83in.,
the width between 1 and 2 143in., the frames being exactly the same in
width as those known as Woodbury’s. The length (c d, Fig. 18) will vary
with the number of frames used, but 11 seems to give the hive the correct
capacity.

It has already been stated that each comb and interspace should occupy
llin. This, multiplied, by 11, gives 16}in., to which we must add 3in.
for the dummy, h i (Fig. 18), so that c d (Fig. 18) equals 174in. The
size of the frame will be readily reached if it be remembered that it should
be everywhere jin. from the hive, because in this amount of space bees
are unwilling to build comb, while smaller openings they fill in with
propolis.*

Fig. 18 shows the arrangement of the frames, which are kept at theiy
correct and relative distances by means of small nails known amongst
earpenters as panel pins. Frames 10 and 11 have been removed in order
Go place frame 9 by itself, the better to show its two distance nails, k and
i, These are driven in immediately over the side of the frame, so that.
when the latter is removed they cannot tear the combs, and are also

 

Fic, 18. Frames OF THE CHESHIRE Hive.

 

* Propolis is a resinous glue collected by bees and used for stopping all crevices.
A further explanation is given later.
BAR FRAME HIVES. 19

placed on the opposite sides of the top bar, which thus fits equally well
either way round. The bars being fin. wide, the distance nails all project
$in., making up the 1}in. previously referred to. Between the hive side and
frame 1 only 5-16in. is required, and therefore a hollow is eut at g, into
which half the length of the pin passes, while at the opposite point a
pin projects 5-16in, from the hive side to retain the frame in correct
position. The dummy (h ¢), whieh usually hangs next the hive side, and
gives play to the combs by its removal, is simply a double board the
same size as a frame, and having the grain of its respective thin halves
running in reverse directions to prevent warping or breaking. These are
fixed to each other by means of fin. screws. One side is cut away (as
shown at h) so as to admit half the length of the distance pin. This
cavity extends from top to bottom of the dummy, or it could not be
drawn out of the hive without disturbing the comb next it, while at 7, on
the left side, a distance pin is fixed in the dummy, and projects 5-16in.,
giving again the half interspace required. Combs 1 to 6 are shown in
situ, and by having the dummy as in the figure, a small swarm, instead
of weakening itself by excessive distribution, would be cosily confined to
about half the hive; and in some cases it might be an economy of heat,
and in other, ways advantageous to still further reduce their working
space. It is here worthy of remark that removing the dummy from the
end of the hive beyond frame 11, where it would usually remain, and
placing it in any part does not prevent the 11 frames being accommodated
as before, for if the dummy stand as in the figure outside No 6, the
frame beyond it, id est, No. 7, will touch the dummy at one of its ends,
and so ‘give space for the full length of the distance pin on the last
frame. To return to our supposed small swarm ; as its comb increases
and its numbers multiply, an unoccupied frame may be lifted out, when
the dummy and half the frames containing combs should be pushed to
the right, and into the aperture thus formed in the colony the empty
frame should be inserted. The bees will immediately labour with unusual
earnestness to fill up the gap in the brood nest, and as quickiy as the
comb is built the queen will insert eggs within it. The operation is to be
again and again repeated until the whole hive is filled. Small swarms,
very gently but yet continuously fed, as elsewhere described, will,
under this system, not only quickly fill their hives, but will produce
that numerous working population without which large and handsome
supers will be always looked for in vain. These lines on management
must be regarded as # parenthesis, since many bar frame hives now in
existence will admit perfectly of its application. The depression in the
hive side affording room to the ears of the frames, should extend as at ¢
and d (Fig. 18), giving finger way on both sides of the dummy, and
materially helping in its convenient withdrawal.

Fig. 19 represents the Cheshire crown board, the edge of which is seen

B2
20 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

at C D (Fig. 17). For the hive under description it consists of five
strips or slats, clamped at their ends to prevent warping; these are
each 17}in. long. The width of the central strip is 5in., while that of
the others is 32in. The central one is pierced with a hole 1}in. in
Giameter,: and over this is placed our feeding stage. This consists of
a plate of vulcanite, perforated with several holes in a particular pattern,
and fixed by the screw S, around which it can, within certain limits,
rotate. While the stage is situated as in the figure, the feeding hole is
beneath the part with-
! é ' : B] out orifices, and the bees
: } in consequence cannot
Wee? reach the syrup bottle
fg which may be placed
upon it. At tis a stop,
and this prevents the
plate being turned fur-
ther to the left. When
food is to be given, the
rotation towards the
- " H ‘ight brings the perfo-
rations in succession over
Jd the feeding hole, and the
c | D bees are allowed in
4 — greater or less numbers
to take the syrup. The
form of the plate will ex-
plain how the stop (¢) holds it when the maximum of the feeding rate has
been reached. AtE Fand G H the top board is cutaway jin. in width and
10in. in length. Notwithstanding the removal of these parts, the board
completely covers the hive top, but if the outside slat (AIC K) be made
to change places with the one next it, E F will occupy the position E’ F’,
and will form a long hole or slot, which will give the bees ingress to the
super, the frame of which occupies the position of the dotted lines, ab dc.
The same being done on the other side, the bees, whose loads are to
become ours, are freely admitted to the storehouse we have placed, with
no unselfish views, for their accommodation ; while the queen, the nurses,
and the pollen gatherers of the centrally situated brood nest beneath are
prevented by an unbroken ceiling from passing up into and spoiling our
super.

The supers (PQ RST U, Fig. 17), were not exhibited with the hive,
and are those for which Mr. Lee obtained first prize at the Crystal
Palace ; their sides (3 4 5 6) are of glass. One is at first placed on, and
after the bees have well advanced with it the second is inserted beneath
it. 1n shallow supers bees gtart more promptly than in deep ones, while

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

peewee a SF

&

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fie. 19. CHEsHIRE Crown Boarp.
BAR FRAME HIVES. 21

they ever strive to close up gaps, hence the advisability of having two,
upon which more must be said when we come to the art of supering.
There are not a few bee keepers, although their number is very signifi-
cantly decreasing, who believe that bees cannot thrive in wooden hives.
Wild bees they forget got on well for ages in hollow trees. With them
there is nothing like straw, and this principally because some observed
facts have been misunder-
stood and misinterpreted.
Hive makers have, to meet
these, striven to produce
frame hives, the outside of
which should be as nearly
as possible oatstalks alone.
As a result of this effort,
we havg the Sherrington
(Fig. 20), which, no doubt,
in its improved form, is
good, although unneces-
sarily cumbrous and heavy,
especially about the roof,
which could hardly be re-
moved by one pair of hands.
The Woodbury, the Cheshire,
and most other frame hives Fig. 20, Tae SaERRiINeToN Hive,
can be had in straw. The
plan adopted is somewhat different to that in the Sherrington, as the
angles of the hives are made in wood into which plates of compressed
and sewn straw are fixed. We have
again and again tried these hives by A
the side of those in all respects similar,
save that the material has been ex- a
clusively wood, and have found no
appreciable difference. In the Sher-
rington a form has been given to the
top bars which will be best understood
by reference to Fig. 21. Hach of these
has projections near the ends which
keep the frames at correct distances
from each other while they rest on the
side of the hive. These frames were
introduced by Mr. Abbott in the hive seen at Fig. 22, and were designed
in order to admit of the use of w quilt,* as it is termed instead of a

 

Frames OF THE SHERRINGTON Hive.

ot The quilt may consist of any hard textile fabric, and Brussels carpet, wrong
side downwards, has been largely recommended, but for winter use phrail is im-
mensely its superior. See a subsequent chapter.
22 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

crown board. The former is simply placed upon the top of the frames.
The ends of the frames
are beyond the reach of
the bees, and are con-
sequently not touched
with propolis, and so
may be handled without
soiling the fingers, but
they get seriously pro-
polised to each other
and to the hive, and
cannot be moved with-
out a most disquieting
jar, which much in-
creases the difficulty
of manipulating. The
frames, too, a8 found in
Mr. Abbott’s, hive, can-
2 not conveniently be
placed temporarily be-
yond their normal dis-
tance from each other,
a considerable impedi-
ment as we shall pre-
: sently see, while the
Fig. 22, Taz Apporr Bar Frame Hive. wood swelling and
shrinking, always makes
the frames either too loose or too tight. This latter defect we quickly
removed by a simple device.

The hives previously mentioned are known as supering hives, from the
Latin preposition super above, because by their use the surplus honey is
stored in boxes or glasses (supers) above the hive. Where the surplus
receptables are situated by the side of the stock-box or hive proper, the
latter is called a collateral hive. This style is not in general repute, and
requires no further notice in a short treatise like the present. But w
little attention must now be given to a description of hive in general
estimation in Scotland, while it is a great favourite with many advanced
bee keepers south of the Cheviots. I allude to the Stewarton, the stock
boxes and supers of which are all octagonal of the same measurement
horizontally, though differing somewhat in height. The top bars have a
special form given to them, so that their interspaces may be closed by a
slide, making the top board unnecessary. Propolis, however, often makes
their removal difficult. The figure (Fig. 23) giving the end view of the bar
and slide will make the working of both sufficiently obvious. The octa-

 
BAR FRAME HIVES. 23

gonal form of the Stewarton is, in the opinion of that charming writer,
** A Renfrewshire Bee-

‘Keeper,’ an immense
‘benefit to the colony dur- BAR

ing winter, but it pre-
vents the complete inter-
changeability of combs,
which a rectangular hive
possesses. The Carr Stewarton (Fig. 24), designed by C. W. Smith, Esq.,
retains the square form, while it gives us completely the telescopic
character of its prototype. Both of these hives may be extended by the
-addition of stock-boxes and supers
to suit precisely the strengh of the
colony and the yield of honey, while
they can be with the utmost facility
‘compressed as seasonal exigencies
may demand.

Before closing this chapter we ought
‘to mention that the details of our hive
have been given as it was exhibited,
but we have since introduced one or two
‘modifications, which we believe are
also improvements, and which are of
general interest, since they can be
added to hives of almost any pattern.
Instead of the chain attached to th
hinged super case, which in some
positions of the operator slightly — i
interferes with his movements in py, 94, Tar Carr Srewarron Hive.
lifting out frames, we now screw to the
super cover one arm of an L shaped crank, the other arm of which comes
against a stop on the side of the hive as the latter is opened and holds
the lid in position. Those who once use this form will, we feel convinced,
never again take kindly to loose super cases.

Super cases require ventilation, and the perforated zinc, covering the
usual window, we have made to slide. When closed no bee can enter, but
by opening it and placing over it our five-pin trap, supers can be at once
cleared of bees without the smallest trouble to their owner. More is said
-of this hereafter.

‘We now let the dummy hang quite clear of the hive side with +in. inter-
space. By so doing propolisation is more completely prevented, and more
xoom igs obtained for the removal of the first frames. Our hive would
thus for eleven frames have an internal width of 17}in. instead of 174in.,
as stated at page 18.

Fie. 23, Bar anp SLIDE OF THE STEWARTON Hive,

 
24 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

There is danger of the ends of the ears of the frames getting attache?
to the hive by propolis, and where this happens it much interferes:
with the comfort of working. It may be prevented either by reducing:
the length of the top bar so as to leave Hin. interspace, or by cutting the-
ears to a point by chiselling off a piece on one side only at an angle of
45°. This gives the bees rather more opportunity of working their
little tiresome trick, of fixing that which we require to be loose, than
the shortened top bar, but it prevents the liability of getting the end of
the frame itself too near to the side of the hive. However, this mis~
chance would rarely happen with a careful operator.

Many good hives have not been mentioned, but enough has been said:
to point out the salient points of the greater number. Let us remember
that hives gather no honey. They may be of the correct size and shape s.
may give our bees most efficient protection, and afford every facility for-
manipulation, but the observant and attentive bee keeper alone will reap
from them all the harvest they are capable of supplying.
EXAMINING HIVES. 25.

CHAPTER IV.

OPT RIG
EXAMINING HIVES

BEE DRESS—SMOKE—EXAMINING A SKEP—DITTO A FRAME HIVE:
-—-HANDLING COMBS.

BEFoRE explaining how the bees are to be managed, it is well to describe-
how the bee keeper is to be made master of the situation : for at first.
his favourites will be more disposed to resent his interference than after
he has acquired the method of deftly performing the necessary operations.
of the apiary. With the novice, the more complete the protection the
greater the calmness under unexpected difficulty, so that we would recom-
mend such to dress thus: Gloves of indiarubber, like those used by
photographers, and which are lined, for
those consisting of rubber exclusively,
although less clumsy, are too troublesome
to put on and take off. To the gloves
should be added gauntlets of calico about
Sin. or Gin. wide, carrying an elastic band,
which, passing over the coat cuff, abso-
lutely saves the hand from all danger.
In chilly weather especially bees are likely
4o fall on the ground and crawl up the legs
of the operator and administer stings under
pressure, so that a string round the trousers
may not be without its advantages. To
protect the face make a veil in the form
of a bottomless bag by joining the ends of
1iyds. of coarse leno; run in an elastic at
the top, about 15in. long, so that it may Fig, 25, Bre VEIL.
clip round the hat as in Fig. 25. The veil

passing over the shoulders and buttoned under the coat will enable us
to laugh at the assaults of the enemy, if the hat-brim be only broad
enough. We generally carry in our pocket a bee-veil made of fine silk net,

 
‘26 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

which, although expensive, is very durable, and occupies very little room
when folded up, while it admits of a much better view through it than
Jeno, on which account we strongly recommend it to those desirous of study-
ing the economy of the hive. A little practice will cause all protective
dressing to be discarded but the veil, and this often may be found un-
necessary.

But smoke is the beekeeper’s talisman, and with this properly applied
bees may be completely tamed or rather terrified into submission. If in
the summer time a skep be lifted from its stand even with the greatest
care, many of the brave little inhabitants will sally forth to repel the
disturber, but if a few puffs from a pipe or from smouldering rag had
first been blown into it, the bees would have retreated between the combs,
where they might have been easily kept by a further dose after the skep
had been lifted and turned up for examination. The habitual smoker
perhaps needs nothing in addition to his pipe, but for those to whom
“* the weed ”’ is no solace, let us describe our little prize apparatus (Fig. 26),

 

Fia. 26. SmoKER.

which has at least the advantages of durability and simplicity, while it
can be easily made by any who would possess it: a piece of indiarubber
tube about lin. in diameter, and Gin. long is fitted over the bowl of an
ordinary pipe, rather briar root than clay, while the end is closed with a
wooden plug or short cork tied well in with wire or string. If, after
the pipe has been charged, a fusee be dropped into it, and the india-
rubber tube placed in position, the hand can easily work the latter by
alternately compressing and releasing it: at each squeeze a stream
of smoke will issue, which may be driven in any direction. The
lover of his pipe may to it add the indiarubber, when he will find
the arrangement very convenient; but for the non-smoker it will be
EXAMINING HIVES. BY

2

better to have a piece of wood turned as in Fig. 27. The hole in this
at the smaller end may be drilled larger than a pipe bore, while into tks

 

Fic, 27. SMOKER,

base of the part we may call the bowl a piece of perforated zine being
fitted, the tobacco will not drive its way into the opening and close it. Old
rag, fustian, or even brown
paper rolled up into the
form of ,a torch will
smoulder and furnish a
supply of smoke for hours,
but these torches, except
for prolonged operations,
are not so convenient as
the apparatus described,
or the little bellows-form
introduced by the Rev.
H. Bligh, while the bees
are likely to fly at them
and perish miserably. The
sound and sight of singeing
wings and writhing burn
ing legs are not such as
most bee-keepers could
complacently endure. With
this latter source of smoke,
too, it is often impossible
to drive the terrifying
cloud into the exact spot
needed. Very rotten wood
where obtainable may re-
place the rag or paper. z
Duly equipped, we may
now proceed to make an
examination of wa hive
which, if of the old type in straw we already seo how to attack. Blow
into the entrance two or three puffs, wait two or three seconds, durirg

 
28 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING. i

which the alarmed inmates rush up instinctively to their honey to fill
themselves, so as at least not to be driven away without some resources.
Probably not a bee will fly when we turn the whole over and peer down
between the combs, whence, by a well-directed discharge of smoke, we
may clear the bees so a3 to get a notion of the condition of things. We
ought to find from early spring to late autumn, especially near the middle
of the hive, patches of cells sealed over with brown convex caps ; these
contain the maturing bees, called in bee parlance “sealed brood” (see
Chapter I.), and their existence is an evidence of the presence of the
queen. Towards the sides we should also see cells closed with slightly
concave and whiter caps; one of these being removed with a knife the
cell will be found to contain honey.

With « frame hive we may see and do much more: proceeding
similarly so far as the smoke is concerned, we may lift the top board,
driving the bees downwards if they appear troublesome, and, after
sliding out the dummy, if the hive possess one, lift out a first frame,
when we can readily see the stored pollen, distinguished by its colour and
mealy appearance, the cells half filled with honey, and those full and
sealed. In raising and handling the frame we must be cautious not to jar
it or breathe upon the bees, or we shall certainly irritate them. Carefully
keep the comb hanging plumb, or if new and tender it may fall from the
frame (see Fig. 28), which is reduced from Langsworth, and shows his
double storied hive, mentioned by and by while speaking of the
“Eixtractor.”’ The end of the frame, held by the right hand, must not
pass to the left, or we shall be likely to put the frame back the wrong
way. round, and as combs are never mathematically straight, imperfect
fitting and possibly considerable discomfort to the bees will follow. In
order to get a view of the other side of the comb, drop one hand and
raise the other until the top bar becomes perpendicular, when the frame
may be revolved, the top bar being the spindle, without the smallest risk.
To assist in the correct restoration of the frames, number them seriatim
on the top bars. Replacing the frame and leaving as much room as pos-
sible for the safe withdrawal of the next, we continue our examination,
and find sealed brood ; keeping a sharp look out for the queen, who will
probably be observed where brood also exists, we trace the eggs and note
the white advancing grubs. If the bees assert themselves, give from time
to time little dosesfof smoke, but only sufficient, and molestation will
cease. Be most scrupulous about the safety of the queen in putting all
again into its original condition. If we can thus far manage we may
consider ourselves as advancing in our novitiate and take courage as to
car future competence.

0 0 2
NATURAL SWARMING 29

CHAPTER V.

—ravg Pere

NATURAL SWARMING.

TINE OF—CAUSE OF—SECURING A SWARM—WHEN TO REMOVE
TO STAND—PRESENCE OR ABSENCE OF QUEEN—SIGNS OF—
PACKING SWARMS FOR JOURNEY—INTRODUCING TO FRAME
HIVES—TO HIVES WITH FIXED LEGS—SWARM WITH LOST
QUEEN—QUEEN CELLS—~-PIPING—CAUSE OF—SIGNS OF CAST-
ING—VALUE OF CASTS—-OFTEN FLY FAR-—-TREATMENT OF
WHEN QUEEN IS LOST—OCASTS BUILD WORKER COMB ONLY.

As the spring advances, food continues to come in abundantly ; stocks
that have passed the winter well begin to grow very numerous, and usually
in this country in May or June make preparation for founding a new
colony, or, in bee parlance, swarming. Many beekeepers entertain the
notion that swarming is merely the direct result of want of room, the
teeming throng from overcrowding being driven to divide into two commu-
nities, but this idea is found upon experience to be incorrect,* while a careful
consideration of some analogies in natural history would have shown the
cause of swarming to lie much deeper, as we intend to point out in our
larger book now in hand. Space and our title ‘‘ Practical Beekeeping ’’
both forbid any dilation on this point here. The swarm takes with it the
old queen, and preparations are usually commenced for providing her
successor for the parent stock some days before the swarm leaves. If, there-
fore, a colony of bees in the spring has advancing queen cells (see Fig. 29)
while the old queen is still amongst them, it may be concluded that,
the weather being favourable, swarming will not be long delayed. On
the morning of the day fixed for departure the hive will show but
little activity, while at the door of others the workers are busily
thronging in and out. Some tell us that a signal within must be given,
since all the teeming thousands seem to be seized with some violent agita-
tion ; but of this we know nothing, except that the bees about to forsake
the place of their nativity for “pastures new,’’ commence to run about

 

* Stocks having built in a cottage roof or a church tower, and having almost
unlimited space, have been observed to throw off swarms with about the same
regularity as those restricted by hives,
30 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

the interior of the hive in wild excitement, while the ordinary course of
bee labour is for the nonce suspended. The would-be emigrants are not
apparently unmindful of the necessity for preparing to the utmost of their
ability for the contingencies of this expedition, so every bee about to depart
fills to repletion her honey bag ; and now, as they rush to the entrance, the
headlong exodus commences, each bee as she rises from the alighting
board circling broadly and humming loudly, calling us to the inspiriting cry
“The bees are swarming.” More are yet pouring through the narrow
doorway, and as we watch we may catch a glimpse of the queen herself
as she takes wing to join her children—for the common idea that the queen
issues first and that the bees follow is quite erroneous.

We note that the giddy multitude now begins to somewhat concentrate,
and to make a progress in some definite direction, and, taking this as our
cue, we find the chosen point for alighting where the whole gather into a
dense mass, usually of the shape of a melon or pear. The fashion of
rattling keys and frying-pans is now nearly exploded. In ancient times it
seems to have been the practice to warn neighbours of swarms rising by
ringing bells and making noises, and this by misinterpretation has
associated the clatter with the settling of the swarm. Langstroth tells us
that if a swarm is disposed to take a longer flight than desirable before
settling, it may be brought to earth by throwing dust amongst the intending
fugitives, while he and others also have stated that flashing a sunbeam
from a looking-glass amongst them will have the same effect, but we
have never had the opportunity of putting either of these suggestions
to the test. When a swarm has once fairly settled, our first object
should he to keep it cool, for the universal excitement and close packing
of the cluster raise the temperature to an almost unbearable extent, and
the direct rays of the sun may before long drive it to a new, and for us
most inconveniently lengthened, flight. If the settling place hasbeen a bush,
cover the latter with a sheet, and in very hot weather let this be well
sprinkled with water; if a tree, an umbrella with its handle thrust in
amongst the branches may give the welcome shade. We must now prepare
for hiving, and, in undertaking this little business, we shall do well to re-
member that bees are exceptionally good tempered as a swarm, for all are
gorged with honey, but that the statement that swarming bees will not sting
isan utter and very misleading mistake. We have been stung in the face by
bees flying out from the cluster when we have given no provocation, and have
had our hands literally covered with stings in hiving swarms that have
settled in situations whence it has been difficult to secure them. The
novice should be veiled and gloved also, unless the position taken up
is a convenient one, such as the end of a tree bough. If the swarm is
intended to remain in a skep, it had better be hived into the one it is to
permanently occupy. If a frame hive is to receive it, let it be first secured
in a skep and then turned into the frame hive as presently described. We
NATURAL SWARMING. 3r

have just said that the end of a tree bough is a convenient position from
which to hive : let us suppose that we have a swarm so situated, and that.
the bough is not above our reach while standing onthe ground. With one
hand we hold the skep (which should be clean within and clear of all beer
and sugar abominations) immediately beneath the swarm, whilst with the
other hand we grasp the bough as near as possible to the bees without crush-
ing any, and with a short and quick down and upward movement we shake as
many of the insects as possible into the skep. The novice would expect
every bee to fly ; some few hundred will do so, and careér around, but the
great bulk, powerless in reciprocal embrace as they hold one on to another
for mutual support, fall in mass, and are directly under our control. The.
floor board of the skep may have been placed immediately under the
position taken up by the swarm, and then the hive may be slowly turned
over upon it, having one of its edges well propped up by a stone; or the
skep may be turned over upon the earth if it be smooth and free from
dust—in this case, also, taking care that there is abundant space for
ventilation. Mr. Pettigrew, we think, prefers to place the floorboard over
the skep while the latter is inverted, but let us caution the beginner
against hurry in this matter, or he may crush the queen as she runs
over the edge. Screen the skep from the sun; use a leafy bough
for this purpose if nothing more convenient be at hand. If, after
the subsidence of the temporary commotion produced, you find that
the bees are beginning to draw near to the hive, even to enter it,
while the number ieft on the bough seem excited and bewildered, running
hurriedly about, and now and again taking a little turn on the wing, you
may conclude that you have secured the queen, and that before long all
will be comfortably clustering within the hive. But if, on the contrary,
the bees within the skep are apparently disquieted and begin to leave it in
numbers, whilst the mass on the bough is comparatively tranquil and
evidently increasing in bulk, you may be pretty sure that the queen is not in
your party, and that the previously described operation will have to be re-
peated. In lifting the skep again use great gentleness, and almost all the
bees will be lifted with it, as they will be hanging from its roof. A little
practice will soon‘enable the operator to determine whether the queen has.
been secured; for the initiated, the mere appearance of the remainder of the
cluster will at once be sufficient. If the bough is at a considerable height
from the ground, the better plan sometimes is to cat it off at some
distance above the cluster and bring it down to a convenient position
for shaking into the skep. Bees sometimes settle close to the main
stem of a tree where many branches are given off, and then the difficulty in
hiving is greatly increased. The skep may in some cases be stood over
them and they driven towards it by smoke ; or they may be brushed into it
by a goose or turkey feather while it is held beneath; but for cases of
this kind no specific rules can be given ; much must rest with the ingenuity
32 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

of the operator. Should the swarm be intended to stand near to the
position in which it was hived, it should be removed thither as soon as
all have quietly taken up their quarters, for, after swarming, bees carefully
mark their new location, and those taking a flight before the hive is placed
on its stand are in danger of being lost by returning to the wrong point.
If, however, the swarm is to be taken any considerable distance it should
be left where hived until late in the evening, when a piece of coarse canvas
should be spread out smoothly upon the ground; the hive, lifted very
slowly and cautiously, so as not to break the cluster of bees all hanging
from its roof—much in form like a swallows’ nest under the house eaves—is
placed upon the canvas, which is drawn up round its sides and tied with
string. The skep is now inverted, and may be carried with safety, to porter
and bees, to its destination, or conveyed by cart or rail, the essential point
being that the canvas is kept upwards. The uneasy hummers within get
shus ample ventilation, and, being well provided with honey, can endure
incarceration for a day or two. Let those in charge understand that the
canvas must not be excluded from free contact of air. Some railway people
lately covered three Ligurian swarms of ours with tarpaulin “to keep
them quiet.”” The expedient succeeded—every bee reached its destination
dead. The skep containing the swarm should, upon its arrival, be placed
on its bottom board and stand, the string untied, and the canvas released
from the mouth, but not removed until the bees have had time to get
clear of it by clustering above. Itis well to leave it not less than two
or three hours, when it may be slipped away as the hive is lifted.

We have previously stated that if the natural swarm is intended to
tenant a frame hive it should still be first taken in a skep, so that it
remains for us to explain how to pass the bees from the former to the
latter. Spread out upon the ground, as near as may be convenient to the
final station, a table cloth or sheet, spreading it out as smoothly as possible,
and fixing down the corners by stones or wooden strips so that the wind may
not disturb it. Place upon this the wooden hive from which the bottom board
has been removed, so that its back edge comes to the edge of the cloth or
thereabouts, giving us a considerable unoccupied area upon which to throw
our swarm. Prop up the front of tho hive with a stoné or block at each
corner, leaving about an inch space in front for the bees to enter.
Cautiously raising the skep with the contained swarm, and standing
with the feet well asunder, while holding the skep firmly between the open
palms, with a sharp, sudden, and decided jerk, shake out the bees upon the
sheet: dropping, as it were, and catching the skep between the hands, we
beat out of it the few dozen remaining bees. The fallen swarm, startled,
does not attempt to take wing, and for the first three or four seconds
merely spreads out upon the sheet, but the suitability of the hive is imme-
diately recognized by the party advancing into it, who at once start a
joyful note which calls the whole body towards the newly adopted home
NATURAL SWARMING. 33

and in a moment, as if by magic, every head stands towards the hive, and
the march progresses until all are safely within. Sometimes there seems
some hesitation, and the bees will advance, but not quite in the direction
desired ; if this be observed, they may be spooned up with the same facility
as if all were dead, and dropped near the hive mouth; and, unless the
handling be rough and careless, not a single bee will sustain injury. If
they gather much on the hive front they may be scraped off with a card, or
brushed down with a feather, but a little patience will generally be found
more serviceable than too much anxious meddling. If the queen is seen to
enter, all further troubling is needless, as the bees will most certainly
follow. With hives with fixed legs a large board propped up under the
alighting board will replace the sheet, and all will proceed as before. In-
stead of these plans, the cover may be removed and the cluster thrown down
upon the top bars of the frames, but the bees are so likely to “boil over”’
the hive sides, as it were, that beginners are not recommended to try it.

Sometimes swarms issue, and, without apparent cause, return. Per-
haps their queen has defective wings, and is unable to fly. If the
bees after issuing continue in great commotion without decidedly
clustering, search may be made for the mother on the ground in the
neighbourhood of the hive, where she will often be found accompanied by
half a dozen or a dozen of her children. Placing her upon a convenient
twig the bees will soon gather around her, and this they will do equally if
she be retained in the hand, though perhaps few of our readers will
sufficiently feel the harmlessness of the experiment to try it. By putting
the queen in a skep and placing it upon the stand from which the swarm
issued, the latter will soon return and join her, when they may be placed in
any position we please, since bees under the swarming impulse seem to
utterly disregard the stock to which they
previously belonged, and return only to the ee @ es”
new abode, wherever that may be. ne @

The hive whence a natural swarm has rp ras é

just issued will be found to contain large i Cr, y
quantities of brood and eggs, while a « ye
sufficient number of bees, ordered by that é

hidden wisdom which we call instinct, has
remained to carry on the work of tending
the advancing grubs, maintaining the tem-
perature, and completing the work of rais-
ing new queens, already in progress when
the swarm left. The cells containing the
princesses will be known by their acorn-
like shape (see Fig. 29), where wu shows
the complete cell which will be gnawed round by the nymph at }, until a
lid, as at d, is opened, when she makes her escape. The cell will after-

Oo

   

    

Fig. 26. QUEEN CELLS.
‘
34 PRACTICAL BELE-KEEPING.

wards be cut down by the bees until it assumes the forme. The number
of queen cells runs from about 3 to 20 or even more, and are in different
stages of progress, so that they would produce young queens at intervals.
If the stock intends to send out no second swarm the first queen leaving
the royal cradle is allowed to follow her instinct of intense hatred to a
rival, she stinging her sisters to death, while the bees themselves assist.
in tearing open the cells containing them. The colony, depleted by
swarming, is now receiving by hatching additions to the extent of from
2000 to 3000 per day, a number equal to the number of eggs deposited
by the old queen three weeks before. The seven or eight days which
usually elapse between swarming, and the birth of the first princess
therefore supplies sufficient for another migration, and with thoroughly
vigorous colonies—unless the beemaster prevent it, as presently explained
—a second swarm or cast as it is termed, generally issues. The bees
thus deciding, keep careful guard over the cells of the princesses, of
which the one first hatched is prevented from injuring the remainder,
being driven back and given to understand, as Langstroth says, “ That
even a queen cannot do in all things as she pleases.’”’ Like some human
beings who cannot have their own way, she is highly offended when thus
repulsed, and utters in quick succession of notes a shrill angry sound
not unlike the rapid utterance of the words “‘ peep, peep.” To this
angry note one or more of the unhatched queens will respond in a some-
what hoarser key, just as a cock by crowing bids defiance to his rivals.
This sound, called “ piping,’ which cannot be mistaken for any other
made by the bees, may be heard by placing the ear against the hive
in the morning or evening before the issue of any swarm after the
first, and, as the cast usually comes off nine days after the swarm,
let the beekeeper listen as described, on the evening of the eighth day,
when, if piping be heard it is a tolerably certain evidence that the
hive will throw w second swarm, the exception being caused by very
unfavourable weather, obliging the bees to permit the destruction of the
princesses. Frequently, in the excitement of casting, Some of the queens
over which guard has been kept will make their escape, and fly from the
hive. We had a late cast one autumn which settled in two masses in an
apple tree. After hiving and throwing down in front of the stock whence
they came, in order to return them, we found five queens amongst them,
each of which we placed in a small hive (a nucleus, hereafter explained),
with a little cluster of bees; and when they had mated and commenced
laying, we utilized them for displacing old and worn out queens in other
hives. Sometimes, as the queens continue to hatch, a succession of after
swarms comes off, which are generally so weak in numbers themselves,
while they so depopulate the stock, that neither they nor it are of much
service—at least, for that season. Four or five years ago we had four swarms
in five days from one hive, which in this case afterwards gave us a super,
NATURAL SWARMING. 30

while all of the swarms became strong colonies; but this was quite
exceptional, and was after all secured by the kind of attention which bees
do not always get. Casts are less numerous generally than swarms, but
as every bee they contain is young, queen included, with its life of work
before it, they are not to be despised, but it is usually bad economy where
increase in stock is not required, to allow casting at all. With frame hives
it may be prevented by examining the combs five or six days after swarming,
and destroying all queen cells but one. If it be done earlier than this,
new queen cells may be started because eggs or grubs young enough for
conversion into queens would still remain in the hive. With skeps the
cast must issue, be deprived of its queen, and then returned. Swarms,
accompanied as they are by the old queen, whose maturity brings discretion,
seldom come off except in clear fine weather, and then rarely before nine or
after three o’clock ; but after swarms, going with giddy lasses, often rise
with the elements not quite propitious, and at widely different times of
the day, while their flight is likely to be much more extensive than that of
first swarms. ‘The apiary therefore requires careful watching, while they
are likely to issue, but since the last queen must be hatched by the
sixteenth day after her mother left the stock, all after swarms must be out
by the eighteenth day.

The queen accompanying w cast has to fly to meet the drone (see
Chapter I.), and here lies a source of uncertainty, for should any accident
befall her, the colony must inevitably perish, since they are destitute of
eggs, without which they are unable to replace her. Such a calamity
occurring, the beemaster should, if possible, at once furnish to them a
new queen, or a ripe queen cell, the methods of introducing which will
presently be explained ; but, lacking these, a comb from another hive con-
taining both eggs and brood will enable them to supply her place, but
not until much mischief has been done from the building of
drone comb, as shown more fully in Chapter VII. But a cast, with its
virgin queen, who must mate with a drone already in existence, does not
normally colonize till a succeeding season; so that for them male bees
are needless. How suitable then is their habit under these conditions,
of filling their hives with combs, amongst which but very few drone cells
appear.

—_———— 0 0 2
36 PRACTICAL BEE KEEPING.

CHAPTER VI,
St Gi ee

DRIVING OR DRUMMING BEES.

CLOSE DRIVING—OPEN DRIVING—HUNTER’S HINGE AND SKEWERS
—DRIVING IN COLD WEATHER——SPRINKLING BOTTLE—DIFFICULT
CASES OF DRIVING—DRIVING FROM BOX HIVES—-WHY DO BEES
DRIVE ?—THROWING—DRIVING IMPROPER AFTER HOT DAYS.

Ovr last chapter has given some account of natural swarms, and
it would appear to some that artificial swarming should now receive atten-
tion ; but before we can swarm artificially with hives with fixed combs, it
is necessary for us to understand the art of drumming or driving bees
from their house and home, so as to place them at our disposal. The plan
usually followed may be thus described : The skep to be drummed has a
puff or two of smoke from tobacco, burning rag, or smouldering wood
driven into its mouth, so as to frighten its inhabitants, and cause them to
fill themselves with honey. The hive is lifted from its floorboard and
turned bottom upwards upon a tub or pail, so that it has a firm stand-
ing; upon it is placed an empty skep having exactly the same diameter
as itself; a jack towel or bandage of some description is fastened around
the edges of the two hives in such a way that not a bee can escape. The
lower hive, 4.¢., the one containing combs and bees, is now beaten
with sticks or by the hands, so as to jar the whole fabric and terrify the
bees, whose composure has already been upset by the smoke blown
amongst them. The beating must be continuous, but not violent, or we
are likely to break the combs from their attachments, and so merely bury
our bees in the ruins of their city. In from one to five minutes they will
be found rushing, whilst making a roaring noise by vibrating their wings,
into the upper hive, from the roof of which, upon separating the two, they
will be found hanging much like a natural swarm.

The method so far outlined is called close driving, because the edges
of the two hives are brought into contact as perfect as may be, and the
escape of even a single bee is prevented. In this particular it will recom-
mend itself to the beginner, whose nervous dread of a sting yet weighs
with him in his choice of plans, but for expedition, artificial swarming,
DRIVING OR DRUMMING BEES, 37

removal of queens, &o., it is not to be compared with open driving, for
which commence as before, but place the hive to receive the driven
swarm over the other at an angle, as in Fig. 30. We usually thrust two
ordinary kitchen skewers through the lower hive near the rim, and about
6in. from each other, so
as to afford a convenient
stop for the upper skep,
the front of which is held
by one hand. Mr. Hunter
has introduced a neat
little wire hinge for fixing
the skeps together, while
he adds the wire rods as
in the figure, for holding
the skeps in any desired
relative position; these
have the considerable ad-
vantage of entirely free-
ing the hands of the
operator. By looking at
our woodcut, we shall
see that the skeps are in
contact at the point to-
wards which the combs
run, and this is important, Fic. 30. Oren Deivine.
as here the bees escape
most easily, and seethe ont in the greatest numbers. The shadow, too, in
the illustration indicates how the light should fall. Let the operator stand
with his back to it, and he then will secure a thorough view of the beesas
they ascend. And as we continue thudding, careful watch should be kept
for the queen, who will generally be espied eagerly seeking security by
clambering amongst her retreating children, which make no attempt
to escape by the opening between the hives, nor do they at all threaten to
use their stings. They are both gorged and terror-struck, and in these
circumstances are as harmless as flies. Generally speaking, even the veil
is quite unnecessary in drumming, although the beginner should use one,
Mr. Pettigrew has wisely pointed out that, if the weather be cool, the
skep into whick the stock is to be driven should be warmed ; and to this we
will add the suggestion, which experience has shown us to be of consider.
able value, that in cool weather or where honey is not abundant, the
beeg should be sprinkled with warm thin syrup about a quarter of an hour
before attempting to drive. This syrup should contain not more than a
pound of sugar to a pint of water (if thicker it would be likely to glue the
bees together), and of this a gill will be sufficient for a large stock. For

   

   
   

Os |

   
38 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

this sprinkling, a wine bottle, having a notch cut in the cork after the
plan of the vinegar bottle upon the stall of the itinerant shellfish monger,
will be very convenient, and enable the operator to drop with measured
force the sweet libations between the combs.

In open driving, the skeps need not be of the same diameter ; indeed, on
one occasion, we found ourselves on a visit where afew stocks of bees were
kept, and having consented to make an artificial swarm to fill a wooden
hive with a fixed bottom, we could discover nothing better to receive the
bees than a lady’s chip bonnet box. The inside was well scored with a
pen-knife to give the swarm foothold, and in a few minutes the whole was
with perfect success accomplished.

Box hives, we are often told, cannot be driven, but if the bees be pre-
pared as we have explained, getting them both gorged and warm, a box
can be cleared of its beesin a few minutes. Indeed, drumming for twenty
minutes upon a hive, caught up immediately after smoking, will not
usually drive as many bees as two minutes’ drumming will dislodge
from one in proper condition. A well-known writer on apicultural
matters tells us that the bees run up to escape the distressing jarring
of their combs, kept up by beating upon their hive walls. Were this
exactly correct, we think they would run down to the hive crown, where
the combs are attached, and where, consequently, the jar is the least,
and the relative distances of the comb not interfered with. We take
it to be simple matter of instinct; frightened bees instinctively run
upwards, and so retreat normally from the edges and exposed portions
of their combs. We cheat them while drumming by inverting the order.
of things. If askep be rapped a few times with a stick, the bees will be
found, if we lift it, to have run up, and to be filling themselves from the
open honey cells. With the skep, the impossibility of removing its crown
is the only impediment to its being drummed in situ, as the following
example will illustrate: One of our swarms in 1871 built so irregularly in
an ordinary Woodbury hive, that the removal of any single comb was
impracticable. In order to accomplish the re-arrangement of the interior,
it was essential to lift out all the combs and frames in one piece, and this
necessitated the previous removal of the bees. The crown board was
taken off, the colony gorged, and and an empty Woodbury, without its
bottom board, placed upon it. A few minutes rapping sent almost every
bee into the upper hive, which, with its forced swarm, occupied the old
stand, while the straightening process was in progress.

We have said that beating upon the hive from “ one to five minutes ’”’
will cause the bees to ascend, but with very weak and poor stocks, or in
cold weather, this time is often much exceeded, and sometimes with a con-
junction of tke unfavourable conditions stated, the bees utterly refuse to
leave ; in this case they may be got out by throwing. The skep is held be-
tween the hands atthe rim, the fingers within and the thumbs without, when,
DRIVING OR DRUMMING BEES. 39

by a decided downward jerk, the most of them wiil be at once dislodged.
Give them no time to recover their astonishment, but repeat the process
and after three or four shakes, hardly a bee will remain. Of course a sheeu
must be spread to receive them, but the method of treatment will depend
upon our object. It isatall times difficult to drive from hives but partially
filled with comb, since the bees cluster in its unoccupied parts rather than
leave ; while the attempt must not be made with very young colonies whose
combs are so tender that breakage must follow the necessary beating.

We must also caution against driving after hot days, when much honey
has been gathered, or this will commence to run from the combs as soon as
the skep is inverted, while our jarring will so shake it out that the bees may
be hopelessly glued together, from which cause not only may we fail in
obtaining a forced swarm, but the colony will be damaged, and perhaps,
even the queen killed. Let us attempt the operation on the following
morning, when the limpid newly-gathered honey will have considerably
thickened by evaporation, and further the process of sealing, .e., the
capping of the store cells with their waxen lids, will have progressed during
the night, while also the temperature will have dropped, making the combs
less liable to collapse

ooo
40 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING

CHAPTER VII.

Pad fae

ARTIFICIAL SWARMING.

NATURAL SWARMING INCONVENIENT—-ARTIFICIAL SWARMING OF
SINGLE SKEP— FINDING THE QUEEN — APPORTIONING TH:
BEES—THREE OUT OF TWO-——-MANAGEMENT OF STATIONS—-
INSERTING QUEEN CELLS —- MAKING SWARMS FROM FRAME
HIVES FOR PACKING—-FOR THE APIARY—BRUSHING BEES—
GENERAL PRINCIPLES.

THE bees’ natural means of increase, ‘‘ swarming,’ demands so much time,
and is accompanied by so much uncertainty and inconvenience, that but
few apiculturists nowadays have not taken the matter altogether into
theix own hands, increasing the number of their colonies by a variety of
methods called generally *“‘ artificial swarming.”

It is needless to point out that, left to themselves, swarms nov una
again settle in most inconvenient positions, or come off at most incon-
venient times, or are lost by leaving when no watcher is at hand ; while
bees often idle week after week in big clusters at their hive door, and
swarm not; and that sometimes unfavourable weather, after all things are
ready, keeps the queen back until the princess intended to succeed her is
necessarily destroyed.

We will at once explain the most generally suitable methods of
proceedure, asking the reader to carefully note the few principles given
towards the end of the chapter, which will enable him to judge of suit-
ability of season, ripeness of hive for increase, &c.

SwaRMING A SINGLE SKEP.

Having given a puff of smoke, remove it from its stand, upon which
place an empty decoy skep to receive and amuse the bees returning from
the fields. Drum the stock (see last chapter), and watch carefully for the
ascent of the queen. A quick eye will rarely allow her to pass unnoticed, but
if she has notbeen seen, turn over the hive containing the swarm (technically
the forced swarm), for an examination, and if her majesty does not shew
herself shake the bees sharply round, when they will roll over each other
like so many grocer’s currants, and the object of our search will probably
ARTIFICIAL SWARMING- 4l

be thrown to the top and detected amongst them. As they craw] (for
they will not fly) up the side of the hive, and cluster thickly upon it, beat
them down by a sharp rap on the outside of it. Repeating the operation
a few times, we can hardly fail in discovering, if present, the mother, in
spite of her attempts at concealment behind her retreating children. The
queen being found, place the forced swarm upon the old stand, and shake
out the bees that have in the meantime returned to the decoy hive froz:
the fields, when they will enter their new abode, and, finding their queen,
will, with the rest, commence comb building at once, as would a natural
swarm. The old hive must now be placed on a new stand. To the
inexperienced, there are two possible difficulties about which a word or
two of explanation seems requisite. First, finding the queen : Some are
not quick at this; and since the queen does not invariably rise by drum-
ming, while her presence is absolutely essential to the swarm, such must
depend ou other evidence than that of sight. The forced swarm being
placed on the stand, if tolerably quiet in the space of half an hour, the
bees not rushing wildly in and out the hive, nor running over it apparently
in search for something, it may be concluded that the queen is with them.
Butif their excitementis great, while the driven hive which may have been
placed on a new stand notiless than six yards away, is quiet, the evidence
is unfavourable, when the driven hive may be again drummed, or the bees
returned to the old stock for another attempt the following day. The
second difficulty is leaving in the old stock the fitting number of bees for
carrying on the work of the colony, andraising queens. Thisis best managed
by arranging the positions of the stock andswarm. If not more than half
the bees have been driven from the old stock, it must occupy a new position,
and the swarm take its former place, to which, from force of habit, many
of the bees still left in the stock will come after their first flight ; butif the
stock has been driven very bare of bees, it is well to place.the swarm and
stock on opposite sides of the old position occupied by the colony,
and each about 4ft. or 5ft. from it, so that bees returning from the fields
may be as likely to enter the one as the other. Should the stock appear
to be getting more than the necessary number of bees, disguise it by
some cover, or place it farther from the old position; but if less,
bring it rather nearer to it. The beginner should try his hand at this matter
not too late in the day, for reasons now obvious. Striving to anticipate
difficulties has perhaps made the operation appear more formidable than
it really is. Let all be done without flurry, and even the merest novice
will find it become easy and clear as he progresses. If the driven swarm
is to be sent away, pack it as described under “ Natural Swarming,” and
out the stock onits own stand.

THREE Our or Two
Where two or more hives are possessed, this method may frequentiy be
49 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING,

found preferable to the one just noticed, for the owner may desire an early
and strong swarm, while his bees, although prospering, are hardly numerous
enough to supply him with one. In the morning of a day when the honey
gatherers are flying strongly, drum every inhabitant from the stock
selected to supply the swarm. Place this swarm on the stand of the
parent stock, and place the parent stock on the stand of a second hive,
removing the latter to w new position. All the bees of the parent will
vemain with the driven swarm. The bees in flight from the second stock
people the parent hive, feed the brood, maintain the heat, and raise a new
queen; while in the second stock, the young bees not yet engaged in
honey gathering will be sufficient in numbers to carry on its work. This
method is suitable to frame hives as well as skeps; if drumming be
replaced by shaking, as presently explained. Suppose « beekeeper to
possess a Ligurian and a black stock, driving all the Ligurians, and
placing their hive upon the stand of the black stock, half the blacks become
nurses for raising a Ligurian queen, while the black stock will, in a few
days, be as strong as ever, and, at the expiration of ten days, may be
itself swarmed, when it will be placed on the stand then occupied by the
first parent stock referred to, which will in turn go to a new position.
To make the matter clear, let 1, 2, 3, 4, represent four stations, of which
2, 3 are occupied as below:

 

 

 

 

1 2 3 4
Ligurian Black
Stock. Stock,

 

 

 

Then after forcing Ligurian swarm,

 

 

 

1 2 3 4
: | Black Ligurian Ligurian
1 Stock. Swarm, Stock.

 

 

 

 

 

i
And after forcing black swarm,
1 2 3 A

i

Black Ligurian Black Ligurian
Swarm. Swarm. Stock. Stock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One great advantage of this arrangement is in this, that at the expira-
tion of ten days after the first swarming, the Ligurian stock on stand 3
will have finished queen cells, only one of which will be required for itself,
a surplus one may then be cut out and given to the black stock, which
will in consequence have a breeding queen ten days earlier than if left
unhelped ; and, as in the early summer, 2000 eggs and even more are laid
daily, this would be equal toa swarm. The queen cellsare generally upon
the lower edge of the comb. and may be easily taken out even of.a skep by
ARTIFICIAL SWARMING. 43

cutting away with it, with a thin sharp penknife, about a square inch
of comb, while the bees are kept in check by a little smoke.

There is some difficulty in inserting queen cells into skeps, they must be
placed in the midst of the brood if possible. By separating the combs a
little, one may be passed between them, and simply held by their grip ; or
it may be pinned in by strong pins running through the comb attached to
it, or it may be put in at the feed hole, between the combs, room being cut
outfor it. The position in which it stands is not material, it will hatch on
its side, or upside down, but the cell itself must be free to give the queen
an exit. The operator must be careful not to pinch the cell, especially
towards the end, or the soft-bodied grub will most likely be fatally in-
jured. Indeed it is not safe, even with the most careful handling, to
transfer until near the time of hatching, which may be known by the
bees thinning down and roughen-
ing the cell at the end. This
ripe condition is often reached
by the 10th day after artificial
swarming, but frequently we may
have to wait to the 13th or 14th,
watching carefully, or the object
of our solicitude may get de-
stroyed through @ queen escaping
from a cell we overlooked. In
frame hives, cut a hole amongst
the brood as in Fig. 31, and
dovetail the cell in, when the
bees will soon fix it neatly. You
see here that a brood comb is
selected, the lighter cells are
those sealed, and in which the
pupe* are maturing, while from
the darker vacant ones the bees
have already hatched. A queen cell so situated is certain of being kept
warm by the bees clustering on the brood.

Plans only possible with frame hives now demand attention. Let us
suppose we have solda swarm and intend sending it packedinaskep. We

‘remove, towards evening, the frame hive 3yds. or 4yds. from its stand, upon
which we place a large flat board, as seen in Fig. 32, and upon this, towards
the back, we place the skep to receive the bees, and prop up its front edge
with the stone A. Open the frame hive, using smoke first to induce the
bees to gorge, and then lift out frame after frame, searching for the queen.
When we have found her, she is gently lifted off by the thumb and finger,
taking her by the roots of the wings, and placed in the skep, which we raise

 

Fig. 31. InsertTeEp QuEEN CELL.

 

* The condition preceding the last change, when the insect becomes mature.
44, PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

for a moment to enable us to insert her. The frame, now held by its
ears, is sharply jerked in front of the skep, when most of the bees fall,
and begin running in, when they at once cluster around their queen. This
frame is returned to its place, and the process continued with others,
until a sufficient number of bees have been obtained to form a swarm.
Closing the frame hive, the swarm is made, and the process so far complete
should not have occupied more than a quarter ofan hour. Late in the even-
ing we pack our swarm (see ‘“‘ Natural Swarming ’’) and return the frame
hive to its old position. Or, commencing early in the day, when the bees
are flying strongly, we proceed as before, except that we shake off bees
from two combs only, the foragers returning from the fields making up
the necessary number, but in this case the stock should be removed if
convenient, eight, or ten yards, while the swarm must not be made close

 

Fic, 32. Swarminc Boarp,

to other hives like the one from which it was taken, or many bees will
enter the wrong ones. .

Ifthe swarm is to tenant’a movable comb hive, the mouth is opened
to the fullest extent, with the swarming board simply fitted under the
alighting board, when all proceeds as before; or the frame hive may stand,
propped up, without its bottom board, where we find the skep in Fig. 32.

If the swarm is to remain in our apiary, we may, in the morning, when
the bees are in full flight, remove from the hive to be swarmed a frame
containing brood, and upon which the queen is found or placed. Putting
this into a new hive stood in the place of the parent stock, the flying bees
will constitute the swarm, which will be strengthened by the hatching
brood, while the queen will from the first have cells in which to deposit
eggs. The old hive must go to a new station after we have drawn its
ARTIFICIAL SWARMING, 45

combs together to fill the gap made, and nearly closed its mouth to prevent
its being attacked by robbers.

In making three out of two, no further explanation is necessary than that
given under that head, except that to clear off all the bees, a goose wing
or a gilder’s large flat sizing brush must be used. Whisking or brushing
off the bees is better than shaking when the combs are tender, or after a
day of honey gathering, as most of the honey, if limpid, is jerked out,
clogging the poor fugitives, especially the younger ones. Swarms may
be made by taking two combs from each of four or five strong stocks,
clearing off their bees, being cautious, too, that no queen is lost, and
putting these into a new hive on the stand of a strong stock. The bees
entering will raise a queen, while if empty frames be given to the colonies
which have lost the combs, they will quickly refill them.

Our limits forbid a further detail of methods, which may be varied
almost ad infinitum, the intelligent beekeeper constantly finding some
specialty inviting a partial departure from stereotyped courses; but if
tempted to experiment, let us remember that artificial swarming will not
be successful if unnatural; we must conform to the conditions made
necessary by the instincts and economy of the bee. This has been
forgotten by some who have written on the subject, and plans have been
given, which we are told are “easy and simple;”’ but from the reason
stated above, are certainly not likely to produce good results ; for example,
a book largely read, tells us that we may make a swarm if we use frame
hives by removing a comb containing grubs and eggs, and placing it in a
similar hive to the one from which it was taken, afterwards removing
the stock to a distance, and putting the new hive in its place. The bees,
returning from the fields, will enter the old hive on the old stand, form a
swarm, and raise a queen from the eggs given them. All this is true ; but
as it is an instinct of the bee to build only drone comb while possessing
an immature queen, the hive will be nearly filled of that which can be used
only for store or for raising a horde of useless consumers. Such artificial
swarmiug must fail, whilst at the door of incompetent advisers lies the
blame of the bad repute which the system has sometimes received. For
the benefit of the more enterprising of our readers, we append u few
general principles, by which they may do well to test any plan before
putting it into execution.

1. No swarming before drones are rather numerous, or when patches
of drone brood are not already sealed. The old stock loses its
queen, and the drone will be needed for her successor in about
twenty-three days ; Exception: when we have a fertile mother
to give to the old stock.

2, No swarming when honey is not abundant; the swarm has no
capital, andanempty house. Unless it obtains large supplies, it
46 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING. ‘

cannot build comb, and is liable to starve; Exception: when
we feed constantuy, or supply stored combs to the swarm.

8. Comb building must not be left to a swarm with an immature
queen, or drone comb only will be constructed.

4, The driven swarm must occupy the old stand, or be sent to a new
locality not less than one or two miles off. We have known of
drones returning four miles. A natural swarm may be placed
in any position, and the bees will keep to it.

5. Driven swarms, if left on stand without a queen, will disperse
amongst the neighbouring hives. If a piece of comb containing
brood be given, the bees will remain.

6. Swarm from your best stocks. Thisisa golden rule, and too often
quite forgotten. Remember, you thus get a good queen for the
swarm, and her qualities will be continued in her successor
in the stock. Artificially swarminy a hive that never would
swarm naturally, is often reversing Nature’s law of “‘ choosing
the best,” perpetuating only the progeny of a weak and effete
queen, and the apiary is kept under a star of ill omen in
consequence.

7. Close partially the mouths of stocks that have been forced (i.e.
swarmed)—they are weak,and are likely to suffer from chill; they
are! also queenless, and are liable to attacks from robbers.

8. Tf from an oversight, a stock is left too bare of bees, it should be
fed with sweetened water, and may with certain precautions be
completely confined to its hive (see “ Uniting ”’).

Make an artificial swarm from a really good stock, ten or eleven days
before swarming several other hives, and insert the queen cells in the
latter, leaving one only in the selected stock. As queens begin ovipositing
usually at nine days old, breeding will not be suspended more than about
eleven days, which is four or five days less than in natural swarming,
an immense advantage, in addition to which casting is prevented.
Natural swarming may be prevented, by clipping the queen’s wings on
one or both sides. An attempt at colonizing may be made, but the queen
will fall on the ground, and the bees will return. If this course is
adopted, a board must be placed aslant from the alighting board to the
ground, by which the queen also may regain her home, or a succession of
casts beginning nine days after, make the remedy worse than the disease
TREATMENT OF SWARMS AND STOCKS. 47

CHAPTER VIII.

sat eee

TREATMENT OF SWARMS AND STOCKS.

SWARMS REQUIRE FEEDING—THE SOURCE OF WAX—RECIPE FOR
BEE FOOD—HOW TO FEED—BOTTLE COVERS—GUIDE FOR SKEPS
—UTILISING OLD COMB—-PLANE GUIDES—-EMBOSSED SHEET—
LONG’S FOUNDATIONS—CHESHIRE’S GUIDES AND MIDRIBS—
DRONE MIDRIBS—DRONE TRAPS—ROBBING-——-BEE HOUSES—PAS-
TURAGE—SPRING AND AUTUMN FEEDING—-WATER—ARTIFICIAL
POLLEN— UNITING.

Ir is important to feed swarms started with empty hives, even in good
weather, but it is absolutely essential to do so in bad, as the following con-
siderations will clearly show : The bees are no sooner fairly hived, than they
form in cluster and keep up a high temperature in order to secrete wax,
which is produced from eight glands situated in the reflexed parts of the
under side of the abdominal rings of the worker ; whence, if we use frame
hives, it may often be seen projecting in little rhomboidal plates, looking
like scale armour. These are, by the aid of the mandibles, elaborated
into comb in a manner upon which space forbids us to dilate. The wax
is a species of animal fat, the evolution of a pound of which requires the
consumption of nearly 201b. of honey, or some similar saccharine’ substance,
As 2Ib. of wax at least are required to furnish a hive, we see the great
quantity of honey demanded if the bees are unassisted; and should
supplies come in slowly, comb binding proceeds sluggishly, breeding is
hindered, and the discouraged bees lose that eager earnestness which
always at first characterises a swarm. Feed regularly and liberally
until the hive is furnished with as much comb as the swarm can
thoroughly cover, and then treat according to weather.

The best food for swarms is loaf sugar, 341b. boiled in a quart of water
(the syrup should be stronger for autumn feeding), to which is added,
whilst boiling, a tablespoonful of common vinegar, after which, the
boiling is continued ten minutes. Good authorities have said the
vinegar is not required, but we beg strongly to differ, having seen again
and again the inconvenience to the beekeeper, and the disadvantage
48 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

to the bees of feeding with crystallizable sugar, which cane sugar is.
The vinegar converts the cane (grocer’s sugar), into glucose or sugar
resembling that of honey, which thickens rather than crystallizes, as

 

Fic, 83. SHoveL anp Syrup Can,

its water dries out of
it. We recommend the
syrup to be so kept that
the entrance of tle bees
will be effectually pre-
vented, or terrible de-
struction may result.
Some such vessel as our
prize syrup can (Fig.33),
in which the spout- is
covered with perforated
zinc, while the shovel, of
which presently we shall
see the use, drops into
a perforated well, will
prevent all danger. Over
the feed hole of the hive
we fix either our prize
vulcanite feeding stage
(see infra), or a piece
of fine (No. 6) perforated
zinc. A wide mouthed

bottle (such as used for pickles) is now filled; the shovel is placed over
its mouth, and the whole inverted (Fig. 34), when not a drop of the

      
  
 
 

    

aa
i

hy Auli

 

    
 

   
   

  
  
  

al
‘as

syrup escapes. Placing the
shovel over the feeding stage,
the bottle is held by one hand,
and the shovel quickly slid
away from under it by the
other, when the syrup is
taken by the bees thrusting
their proboscides up into it
through the perforations. The
supply of syrup should be
given in the evening just after
the bees have ceased flying,
as less excitement will thus
be occasioned. In lieu of the
shovel we, though with less

comfort, may use a piece of tin turned up at the end, or canvas can be
tied over the mouth of the bottle, and the latter inverted as before; but
TREATMENT OF SWARMS AND STOCKS. 49

this plan is less perfect and more troublesome than the previous one.
It is most important that no bees be admitted from other hives
to regale themselves around the bottle. Our hive covers should
be made, if possible, proof against them, but in cases where these
have been wanting, we have had made u little canvas or calico bag
large enough to slip over the feeding bottle easily, and have sewn
into its hem a child’s large bead necklace which costs 1d., and this
cover at once so fits itself to the hive top, that no inquiring bee can steal a
single sip. Ten or twelve such bags about an apiary would often save
trouble from robbing, so likely to follow the discovery of ill-protected
sweets. It may seem strange, but it is really true, that if a swarm be
judiciously fed, it will do much better for some days if the weather be
very bad, than if it be fine. In the first case all the bees remain at home
feeding, and comb-building; while, if the weather entice them, their
energies and time also are partially consumed abroad. Few have yet
forgotten the wretched wet spell during lime blossom in 1875. The day
before it set in, we had a fine cast which was fed constantly, and had pea-
flower (See ‘Artificial Pollen’’) given to it at the hive door, when it
made, during weather such as we rarely see, most unusually rapid pro-
gress ; neglect would have so disheartened a swarm similarly circum.
stanced, that it would have done little when sunshine returned.

Sticks running through skeps are recommended by some straw hivists,
rightly, as we think, from the fixist’s point of view; these should all run
one way, so as to be at right angles to the comb. Direction is given to
the building of the bees, by placing in the skep a guide, that is, a narrow
piece of toughish comb, which can be fixed to a slip of thin wood, which
in turn can be nailed to the skep crown, we prefer, as neater, painting
the part to which the guide is be attached three or four times with wax,
and then, while the wax is still liquid, pressing the guide well on to it,
holding it till it is secure. If sticks are to be used, we must, in making
forced swarms, drive into a hive without sticks, and transfer the bees, as
the former would considerably impede our search for the queen.

Those who adopt the movable comb system can utilize any waste pieces
of worker comb by fixing them to the bars of the frames, when they not only
act as guides, but assist the bees.- To attach them, invert the frame,
paint it well with wax, which heat again with a hot iron, and press the
comb into its place.* The top of the comb should first be made flat
by cutting with a knife, or rubbing upon an inverted heated laundry iron.

The movable comb system necessitates straight building. In re-
ference to this matter, as the whole working of the apiary depends

 

* In France arid Germany common glue is often used for this purpose. The pro-
cess is most simple: Glueing the frame and dipping the comb, and then bringing
the two into contact, being all that is necessary, The bees treat the glue aga
propocis, and complete the fixing to their own taste.

D
50 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

  

upon it, we must give some detailed directions : The position of the hive is

important ; let it stand horizontal in front, and raised an inch or two at

pattern (Fig. 13, page 14), or are made like

Fig. 35, representing the cross section, the

Fic. 35. ing of a thick shaving inserted in a saw kerf )

must be carefully painted with clean wax, which

so far assisted would commence building regularly, but a swarm

often, a cast generally, takes up its position at the side of its

centre of the hive. This outside comb devoted to store, as it naturally

will be, is often so thick as to encroach upon the bar lying beyond it, and

sarily be irregular. To overcome this difficulty, insert one of the empty

frames in the centre of the brood nest, between the most regular of the

thickened store comb by degrees to its true position at the side of the hive.

Not only will this prevent irregularity, but your interference will produce

work of a swarm should be looked at a few days after hiving, when a little

attention will often prevent subsequent annoyance. A comb flowing from
a lead or zine clip, till the busy throng has made it again secure.

The plan of starting the bees by a line of wax left by painting the bar,

a notch cut in it, must now be regarded as out of date, being both very

troublesome and unsatisfactory. An immensely better guide can be made

the back. If the bars are of the Woodbury

Lh a projection beneath (in the latter case consist-

is best melted in a pot resembling a carpenter’s gluepot. The bees

domicile, and beginning there to build, brings its outside comb into the

when the bees begin to multiply and fill new frames the cards will neces-

constructed combs, as the bees are able to occupy new ground, and push the

good results, the reasons for which are already given at page 19. The

the line may be cut with a keen knife, pressed into position, and held by

and then scraping all away by a gauge, consisting of a piece of metal with
much more quickly thus :

 

Fie, 36. GuiprE Maxrer,
Prepare a slip of soft wood, free from knots, about 2in. thick, and of
TREATMENT OF SWARMS AND STOCKS. 51

the length between the sides of the frames.to be waxed, and drive into
it two brads at bare 7-16ths inch from its edge; soak this, slip thoroughly
and it is ready for use. . Place it upon the under side of the top bar»
allowing the brads to act asa stop; it will cover half the width of, the
bar, which is made 7-8ths wide. Upon the exposed half, and upon the
side of the wetted slip, paint perfectly clean molten wax, draw the
brush over it with a fresh supply {about twice. The. wax will adhere
to the bar with great tenacity, but upon the removal of, the slip, no
attachment will be found to have taken place, and the wax applied will
remain like a thin wall which will be modelled by the bees into the
midrib of their combs. Instead of applying the wax with a brush, it may
be poured on from a spoon, when the bar and slip should be held so as.
to form the sides of a little trough or gutter, along which the wax
should be allowed to flow. This will be best understood by reference
to Fig. 36, where a represents the top bar in section, 6 the wetted
slip, c the brad acting as a stop, and d@ the wax guide. If the
distance ce be made half the width of the super bars, the slip 6 will do
duty for supers as well as hives by simply turning it round. If combs
can be spared sufficient to fill every alternate frame, irregularity will be
impossible, and the furnished frames may be removed to do duty with
another swarm as soon as a start has been made.

Embossed wax sheet is largely used by some beekeepers, and is thus
made: A dipper of pine, having surfaces of the dimensions of the sheets
required, is soaked well in cold water, and then plunged into clean molten
wax, which is solidified by the contact of the cold wood in the form of a
thin plate, which remains upon it (i.e. the wood) as it is withdrawn.
Plunging the dipper again into cold water, and repeating the waxing, will
make the sheet of about the required thickness, when it can be lifted from
the dipper, like » piece of thick paper. The ‘sheets are ‘now pressed
between a pair of metal plates, modelled to the exact pattern of the midrib,
of comb.. To emboss the sheets with ease, it is well to keep them in
warm water until placing them between the plates. The artificial midrib
is now cut to the required size, and fixed in position, generally by placing
its edge in a saw kerf, and running or brushing in melted wax to hold
it. Our readers are. referred for more detailed directions to what’ we
have written in the columns of the Country and elsewhere upon this
matter. We regret little that space necessitates brevity here, as some
new methods will, we think, ere long bring embossed wax sheet into disuse.

The Americans are now employing a wax sheet called “Long’s Founda-

tions,”’ made with most beautiful finish, by a machine costing about £30,

. garrying two embossed drums, between which the Wax passes like a cloth

through a patent mangle. The edges ‘of the bases of the cells are

thickened, so that a supply of wax is ‘already at hand for the bees to

use in constructing the cell walls. These foundations require sing: ‘and
n2
52 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING,

in this are not equal, although in appearance they are much superior to
the sheets produced by our new method of making guides, for which
the first requisite is a plaster model or mould, which may be made
either from the embossed plate, or from natural comb. To make the
cast from the embossed plate, proceed thus: Dab the latter with a piece of
sponge or rag which has been sparingly moistened with paraffin oil, Then
place over the plate (0 » Fig. 37) a wooden frame, oiled well, to prevent
sticking of the plaster, and 1}in. deep and wide. We see the sides of
this frame at gr. Now mix a very thin paste of super plaster, the kind
used by dentists for modelling, and pour it into the trough, fill it up with
stiffer plaster (s), and strike it off level at top. Having now our plaste™
model, it is only necessary, in order to make the guide, to well soak the
former in water, and place against its side, the top bar of the frame, so

 

Fie. 37, PuasteR Movp ror THE CHESHIRE GUIDE Maksk,

that the centre of it lies along the edge of the cast. Pure wax having
been melted, as we have often explained, in a gluepot, it is applied by a
painter’s common brush to the top of the cast, and the exposed part of the
bar. The wet plaster receives w coating, which immediately sets, but
does not adhere, while the wax incorporates itself with the wood, which
when raised, carries a guide most firmly attached and as straight as an
arrow. The little apparatus (Fig. 38), which was used at the Crystal
Palace Show, and to which a silver medal was awarded, will enable us to
work more agreeably and expeditiously. To about a square foot of inch
stuff (u,v), an upright (¢) 24in. high, is fixed: holes are pierced at various
heights through this to receive two iron pins, one of which is seen at 2,
A shallow tin tray (1, 2) holding water (3) has the plaster cast (uw) stood in
it, when capillary attraction carries up the exact amount of water necessary
to prevent adhesion of the wax. The pins having been adjusted, so as to
bring the centre of the bar (y), opposite to the top of the mould, the latter
TREATMENT OF SWARMS AND STOCKS. 53

is pushed into contact with the former, and the wax brushed on as before.
A dabbing motion with the brush produces the best impression, which, by
a little practice may be made astonishingly perfect. In waxing frames, a

    
 

= ~ AERA

    

 

Fic. 38. Tae Carsurre Guipz Marer,

prop or wedge should be placed under the bottom bar, or y will not stand
in a perpendicular position ; before raising the frame, the prop should be
removed. Instead of the pins, two screws standing between 2 and the
upright piece are perhaps more convenient, as they can be turned in and out,

 

Fic. 39. THE Guipr.

so as to adjust the height of the bar (y) to the greatest nicety. The guide
(2) should be finished by being cut with a pair of scissors to about the form
shown at Fig. 39, where A represents the bar, and Bthe guide. The casts
and guide also may be increased in width, but if our object be merely to
secure straight combs, 1}in. is more than sufficient ; but if we desire to
determine for our bees whether they shall construct worker or drone cells
at the same time that we help by providing them with material, we should
recommend moulds to be made from natural comb, by the following
54 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

plan, which we did not reach till many partial failures. Select a
straight, old, and large comb, containing no drone cells, free from honey,
and, if possible, from pollen also. These conditions can be nearly, if not
quite absolutely reached by the owner of three or four movable comb
hives, if he select a card of comb in the early spring. With an old sharp
dinner knife dipped in hot soapy water, pare away the cell walls from the
more perfect side of the comb, until it is found that the chrysalis cases
begin to tear, and make the work untidy ; now pour some melted tallow or
dripping into the cells, and allow it to set; bend the end of the knife, so
as to make it like that used for uncapping (see ‘‘ Extractor’’), keep its”
edge keen by rubbing upon a hone, and now continue the operation of
cutting away the cell walls, when it will be found that the tallow will hold
the old pups skins against the knife, and all will proceed with perfect
smoothness; cut carefully as you approach the midrib; your warning
will be the apparent thickening of the partition between the cells. The
work so far complete, turn the comb over upon wa flat board,
and remove as much of the partitioning on the other side as
you can without risk. Place the comb before the fire, not
near enough to at all endanger its melting, but merely to soften it, so
that it may sink down upon the face of the board, and give us bye-and-bye:
a perfectly true and level mould. - Pour thin plaster of Paris over the back,
so as to fill every cell as completely as possible. The plaster having set,
our work, now flat and stiff, may be lifted, when we have to remove the
tallow filling the bases of the cells. Place the comb at an angle in a sink,
and pour over it, in a thin stream, hot water (about 180°; wax melts at
150°) allowing it to fall two or three feet. The heat will melt the tallow,
while the gentle blow will drive it out, at the same time leaving our mould
so far finished. The cast is to be taken from it, as from the metal plate
previously referred to, not omitting the dabbing with paraffin. We may
be unable (we have been) to obtain a comb large enough to make a midrib
for a whole frame; if so, make two casts,* each about half-an-inch thick,
rub or saw those edges which you intend fitting together, so as to have
a good join. Turn them on their faces, bring close, and then make up
the plaster at the back over both to one and a half inches. This mould
must then be cut to size, and used after careful soaking, like the cast w
(Fig. 38), gently dabbing it with a wet sponge after each sheet made.
The impression will be much more deeply cut than that obtained
from the metal die; and, in addition, making the mould from old comb
will so thicken the portion of cell-wall given, as to supply material
for its elongation, while the size will be necessarily exact, which is
unfortunately not the case with the German plates, these giving fifteen
and a half cells in three linear inches, while a large number of combs we
have measured, give an average ¢ of fourteen and a half cells ls only in the

 

* Any number may be made when the matrix is once wrepared.
TREATMENT OF SWARMS AND STOCKS. 55

same length. This error close observation shows to have much hindered
bees in working with impressed sheet. We have had these midribs
converted in stocks into most perfect combs in twenty hours, besides
having a large number of eggs laid in the cells, while the bees are forced
to exactly follow the pattern, and even show the line of the join we have
been obliged to make; anda swarm have worked them perfectly when they
have been supplied in every frame 6in. deep. If the upper side of the mid-
rib in making is clumsily brushed on, so as to obliterate the form, the
bees seem much puzzled in executing the cells, which they delay in begin-
ning, and start from the bottom, working upwards; the side which stood
next the plaster being completed notwithstanding. We think this proves,
if proof were wanting, that plain sheet is in no way equal to embossed.
The work can be best performed in a warm room with the mould soaked in
tepid water, and the wax several degrees above melting point, we thus get
more time for laying on. Every beekeeper will see the advantage thus
gained in preventing the production of a useless horde of consumers, by
limiting the amount of drone comb in the body of the hive, while the
advantages of obtaining for supers cells of the larger size is scarcely:
less apparent, since in these bees deposit no pollen, they are more quickly
built, and require less wax in proportion to the honey stored. To set
this pattern of cell in supers instead of working from natural comb as
before, we have been driven, for reasons all good beekeepers will at
once understand,’ to a little device. Procure sufficient jin. shot to
forma layer the size of the guide required; shake these into position
upon a sheet of tin upon which has been soldered a thick wire to form a
sort of tray. Place the whole upon a hot plate, and fill in the interstices
to half the depth of the shot with hard paraffin (paraffin candle will suit
capitally). Take a cast in plaster, which bake, and-while hot soak with
oil, tallow, or hard paraffin (the last is the best, as it makes the cast
exceedingly tough). From this may be made any number of moulds in
plaster, to be used with hot wax, as before explained. The objection to
this plan is that the bees work one side of the sheet more regularly than
the other ; so we recommend as much better, while scarcely more trouble-
some, a8 follows: Drive the requisite number of shot called in the trade
SSG through a quarter-inch hollow punch (IIb. is required for every 12
superficial inches of guide) ; place these in aframe of proper sizeand din.’
deep, formed by screwing slips on to an oak or beech board, and fix them
by running hard paraffin between them by the aid of ahot iron. Take 3in,

or din. of iron rod and file its end thus in three planes, finish

upon a hone, and it will resemble the bottom of a cell; and punch this
56 PRACTICAL BuE-KEEPING.

into each space between three shots. The mould will now be perfect,
and the cast can be at once taken from it for use as before. If you prefer
it, you may make a mould for cells worker size, also, by the former of
these two methods, then use shot called AAA.

While experimenting upon substituting paraffin for wax for comb
midribs we are pleased to learn that the whole thing has become an
established fact. Mr. Root, the editor of Gleanings in Bee Culture,
who had a machine for making “ Long’s Foundation,”’ says, in his issue
for June, 1876, ‘““We have dispensed entirely with beeswax, paraffin
being much cheaper, whiter, stronger, and more rapidly worked by the
bees.”

“In our experiments to determine what would give the paraffin the
requisite elasticity, we went to the bees and were told they added pro-
polis to their wax when they wanted it very strong, and as they would
find it a hard matter to furnish as much white and tasteless propolis
as our family will need, we bethought us of a favourite gum of our
childhood—Burgundy pitch—and found that this, added to the paraffin
in very small quantities, gives just the tenacity needed.”

Drone Traps sometimes are of service to prevent the escape of black
drones, whose presence is most unwelcome, when we are endeavouring
to raise Ligurian queens, but it is poor management which allows of the
unrestrained production of the rascals and then trapsthem. Instead, cut
out all excess of drone comb, and graft worker into its place. Any
ingenious beekeeper may construct a drone trap for himself; and, although
to ours the palm has twice been awarded, we are free to admit that a
common principle runs through all of them. The trap divides the exit
from the hive into two, one apparent from within, because light enters
by it, the other masked. The bees fly to the light, and pass out, as
intended, through a tube, the end of which is in the centre of a chamber
full of apertures, only large enough to pass a worker. The drones (more
bulky) are thus imprisoned, as they’try all corners for a way of escape,
but are not clever enough to retrace their steps. The workers’ after
their flight, return by the masked opening, which is apparent from the
outside.

Robbing never occurs when honey is very abundant; bees will not even
notice it then in comb, however much it may be exposed; but in times of
scarcity, when the weather allows the honey gatherers abroad, they are so
eager to gain supplies that they often attempt to enter weak or queenless
hives, to gain possession of its stores. Robbing is likely to be brought
about by exposing sweets or feeding in such a manner that strangers can
get access to the syrup given, but our calico covers will often prevent the
source of mischief (see page 49). When a hive is attacked, the would-be
thieves may be known by their buzzing around the hive door, when one
and another of them now and again settle, generally to be seized by the
TREATMENT OF SWARMS AND STOCKS. 57

guards within, who often in serious tussle, fall with the enemy from the
alighting board to the ground. So long as the colony is energetic in its
defence, the danger is slight; unless, indeed, the besiegers gather in
considerable numbers, when they should be well sprinkled with water, and
the hive door reduced to about tin. square, giving ventilation above as
needed. If the assault continues, place a piece of tile on each side of the
entrance, and another piece over, forming a little bridge, and sprinkle or
sponge the front of the hive with carbolic acid and water. These
means, with a little watching, will rarely fail, but if the colony be very
weak, or has given up resistance before the discovery is made, it had better
be taken to a new locality, or it may be closed (ample provision being
made for ventilation), and placed for three or four days in a dark cellar,
and fed upon thin syrup. When returned to its stand, aid it as previonsly
directed, and in addition, lean a board against the hive front so as to con-
ceal the absolute mouth. It has been remarked, that bees are somewhat
like their masters, since, with them, » lapse into dishonest courses is
not often followed by a return to virtue, and that bad example in the few
tends to demoralize the many ; for many a beekeeper has had to lament
the loss of valuable stocks through his want of caution leading his pets
into temptation.

Beehouses are not now used by our best apiarians. They make it
impossible to operate with one hive without disturbing the rest, which
sometimes starts robbing,
they bring the hives so
close together, thatyoung
queens returning from
theix nuptial excursion
are likely to enter the
wrong aperture, to be at
once destroyed, while the
hive which owned them
dies out unless assisted,
and they much interfere
with some of the best
methods of manipulating,
as a glance at “Artificial
Swarming”’ will show,
but some of orderly mind ‘
would rather run a risk Fie. 40. Bez House (Front).
than make the garden
“untidy.” Such may examine Figs. 40 and 41, representing the front
and back of a bee house. Sir John Lubbock’s experiments have demon-
strated, that bees have a perception of colour ; we may therefore minimize
one of the risks indicated above, by giving the entrance ways different

 
33 PRACKICAL BEE-KEEPING.

hues. Ve would also recommend a leafy twig to be fixed over the alight-
ing board of any stock that has swarmed until the young queen is known
to have mated. Mr. Hooker, and Mr. Neighbour both make thin hives
to slip in and out of that
which may be called a bee
house for one colony, thus
permitting of the moving of
stocks from point to point,
as occasion may require,
without altering the arrange-
ment to the eye.

Pasturage is good gene-
rally where orchard and
forest trees abound, or in
the neighbourhood of seed

¥ie, 41. Bez Hovse (Bacx). farms, or where white clover
is cultivated, or wild flowers
and heath are abundant, and indifferent where much of the land is
grazed—by sheep especially. A variety of honey-producing plants and
trees is preferable to a great extent of one kind—securing succession,
and prolonging the gathering season. The common idea that flower
gardens are the bees’ cornucopiz, is totally erroneous, although it
is true that stocks usually do fairly well where there is much villa
gardening, because we here get variety, and consequent succession.
Planting a few flowers near hives is scarcely more likely to increase the
weight in our supers than growing wheat in a flower pot is likely to
cheapen bread ; but this is not saying that scattering seeds of such good
honey plants as borage along the hedgerows near the apiary is not both
wise and useful. The plants which grow close to the hive door are not
much visited, as the instinct of the bee rightly leads it farther afield. If
each seeker applied to the blooms nearest home, how much time would
be lost in dipping into nectaries already rifled of their sweets !

Spring and Autumn Feeding are most important items of management.
Strong stocks are not altogether without brood for about ten months
during the year, but in the early spring the cautious insects, left
to themselves, do not venture upon raising any considerable number of
young bees until supplies come in in sufficient amount to warrant that
heavy expenditure which rapid breeding demands. The supply once
established breeding begins apace, but before the increasing circles of
eges can be converted into gathering bees a month must elapse, since the
first few days of the newly hatched workers are passed within the hive.
During this period the few bees that can be spared from a comparatively
thin population, which has the duty of nursing and keeping warm a large
number of grubs, can only most imperfectly take advantage’ of the

 

 
TREATMENT OF SWARMS AND STOCKS. 59

myriads of bloom which clothe with such unspeakable beauty our orchard
trees. How then can we secure the abundance of labourers when the
harvest is plenteous? By antedating the natural supply of honey by
feeding—commencing if the weather is open, at the end of February. We
may use any kind of feeder ; but {he bottle, as recommended at the begin-
ning of the chapter, allows the bees to regale themselves while clustering
in the warmest part of the hive, while no heated air is suffered +o escape :
advantages combined in no other form. But the bottle on perforated zinc
is not the ne plus ultra of feeding. It lacks the gentle regularity of the
normal inflow of Nature’s sweets. It gives to the bees so rapidly that
they, in their greed and excitement, fill up the cells of the brood nest, and
before the stimulus for ovipositing has taken possession of them the
supply is gone. To
overcome this difficulty
we invented the rotat-
ing stage (Fig. 42), con-
sisting of vulcanite, and
having holes pierced in
it, as in the illustration.
Vulcanite is smooth and
flexible, quite incapable
of being chemically
acted upon by any bee
tood, as zinc may be,
and above all, is an ex-
ceedingly good non-con-
ductor of heat. " The
plate is fixed upon the Fig. 42. CHEsaineE FEEDING Stage.

hive board by a screw

(A), to receive which a hole is first made in the vulcanite with a red
hot wire. The dotted circle shows the position of the feed hole,
which should stand exactly between A and the stop (B), 4 locksmith’s
screw, so placed that its head laps over the edges of the plate and
holds it in position, while it permits its rotation either way, until
one of the two projections touches the screw. ‘The plate may be
pierced with a red hot knitting needle, the burrs removed by scraping,
and the under side roughened by deep scratching with a sharp kmife, so
that the bees may have foothold. If the plate be placed as represented,
only one hole would be reachable by the workers beneath, and this
would be cut off from them if the plate were rotated as far as possible
to the right, so that the bottle may remain on without giving anything
to the stock. If, however, the movement be made towards the left, hole
after hole is brought into position, until the maximum is reached,
when the stop arrests the further rotation of the vulcanite. The effect

 
60 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

of slow and regular feeding is remarkable. Food comes in slowly, it is
true, but the supply is constant; day by day the store increases, and
the thrifty little insects come at last to trust in what appears a perennial
spring. The natural result is the deposit of eggs, and the grubs in due
course quickly consume the sugar supplied, so that we positively convert
our food into bees. Two cautions are here needed: 1st. Do not use over
large bottles for the syrup to be filled at long intervals, as some have
recommended. Air expands and contracts greatly as its temperature
rises and falls, and that standing above the syrup in a capacious bottle
increasing in volume as the morning warms, will pour our food down
over the bees, to their great injury, especially if the night has been cold.
A bee-keeper of our acquaintance recently lost a stock from this cause.
If a bottle half full be placed on the feed hole of a hive without. bees,
a few days will empty it, for the reason previously given. 2nd.
Bees will often devour whole batches of eggs deposited under the
stimulus of continuous feeding, if left without supplies even for a few
hours. This is more particularly true when the weather is such as to
confine them wholly to their hives. Taking this hint, those who
really love their bees will feed them after thoroughly bad days all
through the spring; and to the cottager who desires profit no invest-
ment would yield so large a return as this.

The principles already indicated as guiding “spring stimulation”’
apply to autumn feeding. Normally a hive should continue breeding,
though with relaxed energy, until the dropping temperature reduces all
to a condition of quiescence, and then the youngest inhabitants, with
the initial energy of a new life, pass on at once into the hybernating
condition, which conserves their forces almost unimpaired until the
return of spring, for the life of a bee seems not measurable by length of
days, being rather a constant quantity of nerve force which may be
paid out rapidly or slowly ; hence during the summer the workers’ powers
are worn out during five or six weeks, while from autumn to spring eight
months are required to exhaust them. From this it will appear that an
early failure of the honey harvest, stopping breeding prematurely, will
deprive the hive of its main hope for the spring—comparatively fresh bees.
These may be obtained by providing that stimulus—food—which nature
fails to supply. But supply regularly and slowly, not fitfully, and
breeding will be continued ; and, if it be so desired, comb built long after
the ordinary period. Our experiments upon this matter have been given
at length in the columns of the Country. The result was in short to
build up stocks from mere handfuls of bees, and keep them breeding
freely and building worker comb far into the month of November.

If, however, our object be to supply that store which is needed to carry
the stock through the winter, syrup may be given rapidly; but this,
although made as before described, must not contain less than 5lb. loaf
YREATMENT OF SWARMS AND STOCKs. 61

sugar to a quart of water, so that little evaporation will be required
before sealing. If quantities of thin food be given quickly late in the
year, as some advise, the effect must be most prejudicial, and evidence
is not wanting that dysentery is directly produced by it.

Water is an essential for bees. Wild ones are said never to be found
but in the neighbourhood of some pond, brook, or spring. New honey
is very dilute, containing all the water necessary for producing with
pollen the chyle upon which the worker feeds the advancing grub (see
p. 5), but it is never sealed until much inspissated. When brood has to
be raised upon store, water is obviously required, and at such times the
anxious workers may be seen flying in search of it, even when the
temperature is so low as to make the death of many certain. This
explains the philosophy of giving thin syrup in the spring, as previously
advised. Unless some source render the arrangement unnecessary, ‘place
near the hives trays provided with wooden floats bored with holes,
through which the bees may sip without danger of drowning. These
will only be frequented during dry weather and when honey is scarce ;
but do not provide drink and when your bees have learned to trust to it
forget its continuance.

Pollen, Natural and Artificial—Natural pollen (the flesh-forming
while honey is the heat-giving food of bees) is the dust gathered
from the anthers of flowers and packed by the gatherers on the
concave face of the tibia of the hind leg, where it may be seen in
little rounded pellets of varying hues as the loaded labourers regain
the door of home. The bee, having fixed herself upon a cell,
pushes her burden from its position by the fore legs and then rams
it down with the head. The cell having received its complement,
a little honey is placed over it, and the waxen air-tight sealing added,
which renders fermentation impossible. Mr. Pettigrew, whose practice
is more accurate than his philosophy, tells us that “bees do not eat
pollen. They die of starvation, with « superabundance of it in their
hives ;’’ but the latter fact does not prove the former statement. A man
would die of starvation if fed only on Liebig’s extract of meat on the one
hand, or on arrowroot on the other; but by uniting the two he has a
sufficient diet. So with the bee. With pollen only they would quickly
die of cold; with honey alone tissue is soon exhausted and vital energy
slowly but surely extinguished. The physiologist perfectly understands
this matter, and has shown long since that a true proportion of the
essential food of animals—flesh and heat formers—is necessary in order
that the largest results may be obtained by any given consumption of
them.

Artificial Pollen has been given by American bee-keepers, and
latterly by many in England. ‘The idea originated with the great
observer Dzierzon. He noticed, very early one spring, that his
62 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

bees were carrying home flour which they had stolen from a neigh-
bouring mill. He profited by the hint, and quickly gave the
substance close at hand, with results highly satisfactory. And
lack of wholesome pollen possibly often retards spring breeding,
especially where sugar is being given, for do we not frequently find
that the pollen of the autumn in the central combs has desiccated so as
so be useless, while that of the outside ones has mildewed? One of the
signs of returning activity will be the removal of the first-mentioned
indurated masses which the bees, with their admirable perseverance, tug
at and tease until they accomplish their dislodgement. The substitute
for pollen usually given in America is unbolted rye flour. We have used
pea flour with the greatest success. This substance is highly nitrogenous,
and contains albuminoid compounds in considerable amount, and in this
particular closely resembles natural pollen, and is capable consequently
of being converted into animal tissue. Place the pea flour in trays
covered from the rain, and sprinkle so well with chaff as nearly to cover
it from view. The bees may be allured to it by a piece of old newly
burnt comb ; but ours want no invitation, rolling in it by thousands,
and consume, when supplied, many pounds daily. When natural supplies
are abundant the substitute is disregarded.

Uniting.—It is a cardinal rule in beekeeping, that stocks should be
kept strong. Weak lots require much attention, for which they rarely
_pay in results. The nursing of weaklings seems to have a peculiar
fascination for some, but in almost every case “‘le jeu ne vaut pas la
chandelle.’’ In the early spring, if we find two weak stocks, one
queenless perhaps, and we determine to unite them, we get them side by
side by moving each about a yard daily. If they are in skeps sprinkle
both well with weak syrup, scented with peppermint, smoke slightly the
one to be driven, and more the one to receive the driven swarm. Wait
ten or fifteen minutes before driving. Place the skep to be strengthened
upon a large board (see Fig. 32) or a sheet; throw the forced swarm
upon it ; once more sprinkling gently, when the bees will be well received.
Let this stock stand between the positions occupied by the two united.
If the given bees have a queen, known to be old, remove her. For frame
hives with interchangeable frames it is only necessary after smoking and
sprinkling to take out vacant frames so as to give place to all those
containing brood or carrying bees in the one hive; removing as before
the queen least valued. If inconvenient to previously place the hives
side by side as recommended above, the bees may be made to
remain in their new station thus: Close* the hive during the two days
succeeding the marriage, giving ample ventilation, and allow the bees to
take a fly late in the afternoon by opening the hive before sunset

* Closed hives should have thin syrup given to them.
TREATMENT OF SWARMS AND wTOCKS. 63

and closing it again before they are on the wing in the morning.
On the third day the danger of desertion is passed. If the hives to be
united have not the same sized frames, the bees should be brushed from
all on to a sheet or board, allowing them to run in together, sprinkling
if there be any disposition to quarrel; provided always that we have
smoked, and, to be safe, scented them also. Bees are very clannish. We
overcome them by fright, gorging, scenting and reducing to poverty, so
that they have nothing to defend. Swarms or casts may be easily united,
and without any preparation, if one has not come off more than a day or
two before the other. If more time has elapsed smoke the older swarm,
and well sprinkle the new comers: bees with well filled honey bags are
commonly welcomed. In the autumn stocks too weak to winter may be
‘strengthened by condemned bees (see Chap. 9), which, unfortunately,
most cottagers are too ill instructed to utilize. The experienced might
dispense with some of the precautions here advised, but we are writing
for the learner, to whom “short cuts’? would often prove the longest
road.
PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

CHAPTER IX.
aerate

SUPERING, EXTRACTING, AND HARVESTING.

STRAW AND GLASS SUPERS—JACKETS—FIXING COMBS—BAR
SUPERS—GUIDES FOR DITTO—COWAN’S BOXES—ZINC ADAPTER
—DIVISIONAL SUPERS—-HIVES WHICH YIELD MOST SUPER
HONEY—CAUTION IN REMOVING SUPERS—-TAKING OFF SUPERS
—CLEARING OF BEES—-CHESHIRE PIN TRAP—EXTRACTOR
—ITALIAN EXTRACTOR — DOUBLE-STORIED HIVE — RUNNING
AND ASSORTING HONEY,

Comp in the body of the hive is always liable to be visited by the queen
and spoiled for table use by the deposition of eggs; and even if this be not
the case, the close contact of nursery work, the continual tramp of the
busy throng, and the deposit of pollen tends to render it less valuable,
than that in supers, which to be perfect must be built quickly
and filled with the nectar of flowers alone. It is wise not to super
until the bees are ready to take possession; the hive must be
full, and honey coming in. The cottager’s straw cap placed over the feed
hole in the crown of the skep, usually receives but little attention, but
better results would be obtained if all openings between super and hive
were closed by some luting to prevent the escape of heated air, and the
whole covered well to save from chill at night and excessive heat
by day (see page 8). Glass supers should have fixed from their
roof, pieces of new drone comb, as bees cannot walk up their
sides, and unless so assisted, build their wax works upwards, which
is to them an unnatural, and, unfortunately for the careless, a slow
process. The drone comb is thus attached: Warm the glass slowly
and evenly, either before a fire or over a flame, and then gently
rub the piece against the glass where it is to remain, taking care
that it is right way up, ¢.e. that the cells slope upwards. The bees will
quickly form a chain between our guide comb and the hive top, by linking
themselves together, and upon this living ladder the laden wax workers
will ascend to build and store. New drone comb may often be cut out
from hives, where it is a damage, and utilized as indicated, saving time and
honey. The reason for giving drone comb for store is already explained
SUPERING, EXTRACTING, AND HARVESTING. 65

at page 55. Our Scotch friends, however, prefer cells of worker size in
exhibition supers. Besides the comb, the glass super is improved by
a bottom board, the thinner the better, with a hole or holes in it
answering to the openings in the hive. To this bottom board, let it be
neatly fixed by gummed paper, and last but not least, give it a jacket
consisting of cloth from an old coat or stuff from an old gown, used double
with a layer of wadding between, or in lien of wadding two or three
thicknesses of brown paper. If this be neglected, the heated air rising
from the hive with its charge of moisture, will be chilled as it touches
the glass, which will be covered with dew, so that the bees cannot, if they
would, fix their tracery.

Where the super is very small, and the arrangement of the combs not
important, a piece or two of loose comb (an abomination to a bee), will
often start operations in fixing it, which will be continued till the
glass is removed, filled.

It is now the practice with most beekeepers to use bar or frame supers,
which of course require guides to insure straight building; these can be
added according to one of the plans already given for hives proper;
but none as yet suggested equals the drone midribs extending to within
about din. of the bottom of the super, except, indeed, the bars be
completely furnished, and be given to the bees to fill merely—a course,
manifestly, but very occasionally practicable. The gummed paper and
the jacket with these bar supers are as desirable as with those wholly of
glass. Comb cannot be built, because wax cannot be secreted, unless a
high temperature is attained, and if by careless covering, this be lost at
night, when naturally most comb is built, the loss to the beekeeper is
apparent. It is desirable that the super should be shallow, as bees are
loath to begin if the start must be made far from home. Place on a
shallow super, let it be well in hand, and most of the comb getting
towards the bottom, then separate if needs be, by slipping a thin
wire under it; then place the new one between it and the hive. Mr. G.
Fox of Kingsbridge, by carrying this principle to its ultimate limits,
secured some of the largest harvests on record in this country. His
supers were used over rectangular hives, and passed over them like a case.
As the bees carried the combs down, the supers were gradually raised,
stimulating the labourers in their efforts to lengthen the combs. It will be
seen from this why we have previously said that the wooden bottom for the
super should be thin. It should also be contrived so as to be taken away
with the super, when, after clearing of bees, paper may be gummed over the
openings, and all packed away without fear of damage from insect robbers.
It is better that the entrance to the supers should not be through the
centre, but at the sides of the hive as less likely to admit of the queen and
pollen gatherers (see our crown board described page 20). Some admit
their bees to the supers through perforated zinc, which lies over

EB
66 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING,

the frames, the apertures of which measure 5-24ths of an inch—large
enough to pass a loaded worker, but not the queen. The workers getting
through are likely to fail in finding their way back, so Mr. Cowan, one of
our most successful apiculturists, who works this plan, commonly places
traps in his supers by which the bees continually pass out instead of
returning through the hive.

The gentleman just referred to introduced, at the Crystal Palace show,
in 1875, an admirable arrangement of boxes for receiving surplus honey.
A number of these in tin, inverted side by side in close contact, make up
the size of a large super, over which passes a good non-conducting
cover. There is no greater loss of heat than if all were inone. Each
box contains a piece of wax sheet, upon which the bees construct their
comb. As completed, they are removed, and a lid put on, thus packing
neatly and at once 3lb. or 4lb. of honey. These boxes, or similar ones
in wood, to carry two combs, which some of the makers are now sup-
plying, may be placed, in the American fashion, immediately over the
hive frames without even the intervention of the perforated zinc, and
are thus very readily accepted, as the heat of the colony passes freely
into them, while the access
of the bees is perfectly open.
The counterpoise to this ad-
vantage is the liability of

ior brood being raised in them ;
ieee!) © but the risk is not serious,
ea i unless the hive itself is too

Fig. 43, NercHRour’s DivisionaL Super. small. In America it is com-

mon to use two tiers of boxes,
worked like double supers. Mr. Neighbour’s divisional supers (Fig. 43)
give some of the advantages of independent boxes, while the chamber
in which the bees work is really one. The side bar seen in the illustration
being unscrewed the combs can be separately removed.

Store, upon which bees depend for “a rainy day,’ is placed over the
brood nest. As a consequence, shallow hives, with a large area above
yield the most super honey, but with these characteristics unduly developed
they winter badly, and are very risky with the non-observant. A hive
breeding heavily may fill a big super, the hope of the natural owners for
dreary winter. But he who may by right divine appropriate, perhaps
removes all, and, thinking his colony prosperous, leaves it to shift as
it may. The honey harvest suddenly ceasing, the poor bees find them-
selves with the heavy demands of a big family occupying nearly every cell
in the hive, suddenly deprived of all resource. Never think because a hive
has given a large surplus it needs nothing ; the most prosperous stock is
the most likely to starve under such circumstances. Where thereis much
brood raising, the outgoing is tremendous, and food must be given liberally

 
   
   

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sent mt

 
 

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SUPERING, EXTRACTING, AND HARVESTING. 67

till another glut of honey comes, or sufficient has been stored to last the
winter.

Having taken a peep at our pets by raising the jacket, and having dis-
covered that the lower cells of the outside combs are just being com-
pleted, with their air-tight snowy caps, we proceed thus, ¢.¢., if a bottom
board has been supplied to the super, we simply slip the whole upon the
hive top board, a distance equal to the diameter of the openings in it, and
all communication between the hive and super is cutoff. The bees quickly
find they are imprisoned, and some begin to run about, while others lap up
any bleeding honey. After leaving them a few minutes. they will be glad
to fly in considerable numbers to the hive when their super is carried
to a shady place. A few puffs of smoke given at intervals between
which the super must be covered with « cloth to save it from robbers,
will generally get rid of the remainder.

If the super be a large one, and many bees are found in it, or it is neces-
sary to remove it before completion, it will be advisable to act somewhat
differently. In the evening take off its jacket and wrap round it a wet
cloth or towel, the evaporation from which will quickly cool the slabs of
honey, and render the small spaces between them most uncomfortable
quarters for their then owners. They will descend for the most part, and
in the morning the operation may be much more easily performed by pro-
ceeding as before.

Or the supers may be placed in a box* immediately after removal, to one
side of which has been attached one of Mr. Aston’s bee traps, too well
known to need description, taking care that the bees have exit from the
super by its being blocked up beneath ; but for this purpose, our little
five-pin trap will be found to work quite as well as the one referred
to, while it may be made in ten minutes with five pins. A hole
jin. in diameter, which may be made either square or round, is cut
through a piece of thin wood. Four rather small pins are driven in, two
above and two below the opening and on each side of a perpendicular
line, which would pass across its centre and so near to each other that
a fifth pin dropped between them will be held between the upper two by
its head, while the lower two will prevent its being moved laterally. These
pins are not driven straight into the wood, but slope upwards like an
ordinary wall nail; three or four of these apertures should be made in
a wooden slip, the section of which should be triangular (see Fig. 44), and
which may then be fastened upon the opening in the supef, all ingress closed,
and light allowed to enter only by the holes in the bee trap; to this end, with
the glass super, the box plan is the best. The bees coming to the light press
upon the pin which crosses the hole ; it immediately rises, and they freely
make their exit, while entry is effectually barred. The hole to the right

* This box will be much more convenient if it open at the side

E2
68 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

in our illustration is guarded by a pin held by a loop formed of another
pin bent and driven into the wood. The extra trouble is here compen-
sated by the greater durability of the trap. Bees cannot pass an
opening less than 5-32 of an inch across, ¢.e., what carpenters would call
an eighth full, but this hole being one quarter divided and reduced by the:
thickness of the pin is an eighth bare. With our hive (arranged as ex-
plained at page 23), it is only necessary to cut off communication from
below, either by running zinc slips over the slots in the crown board or
simply sliding the super (if it carries bottom) the width of the slot,
removing its lid and shutting the super case, having fixed upon it the
pin trap, when, in a few hours, every bee having given up possession,
we appropriate ‘“‘ our share of the profits” without interruption.

If a super be taken off in the evening, it is often well to turn it up or
remove its lid, and place some cover over it, which, while preventing any
bees from entering, will give those within room for clustering. During
the night, the cooling of the whole will force the bees to collect

 

Fic, 44. CHeswire Pin Trap.

in a mass in the cover, from which, in the morning, they may be
returned to the hive. A good and simple plan for big boxes or straw
caps is simply to invert them and place a thin cloth upon them, upon
which the bees will collect as they travel to the light. Turning the
cloth occasionally will soon rid the super of the last tenant.

If the bees refuse to leave in any case, the queen may be present, when
the super must be replaced.

The extractor is invaluable in all large apiaries, as by its means honey
can be secured without destroying the comb. Enough has already been
said to show that wax is to the beekeeper a very costly product, but who.
does not see how important is the preservation of every particle of comb,
when he considers that in addition to the wax, it absorbs in its con-
struction a large amount of time, and greatly exhausts the energies, or,
in other words, wears down the duration of the lives of the little
SUPERING, EXTRACTING, AND HARVESTING. 69

labourers. When we remove a super and break up its beautiful tracery
in order to secure the honey, each pound of the wax, which may realise
about 8s., is all that remains of 15lb. of honey atleast, besides the labour
demanded in giving it its matchless shape.

All the extractors hitherto brought before the public have depended
for their action on centrifugal force. A typical form is seen in our illus-
tration (Fig. 45). Within a zinc or tinplate reservoir, which is commonly
supplied with a treacle tap at bottom for draw-
ing off the honey, revolves a cage, not unlike an
ordinary street lamp divested of its top, and
upon the sides of which is tightly strained
strong wire work. Through the centre of this
cage passes a spindle so geared that it can be
made to revolve rapidly. The usual cog-wheels
may, in a home-made extractor, be replaced by
a cord running round and fastened to the shaft.
Pulling the cord, so as to unwind it, will revolve
the whole apparatus, while inertia will re-wind
and put the cord in condition for a fresh pull.
‘The hive to be robbed is treated to a little smoke,
and opened as usual; and as a precaution, which
it is wise never to omit, search is made for the
queen. During our hunt we become acquainted
with the condition of things, and determine, according to date of year,
object in view, &c., the number of combs from which we will extract
honey. The outside comb is now removed, and the bees jerked or
brushed from it, into the hive at once, or on to the board (see page 33
and Fig. 32) so often recommended, the latter will save the young bees
that would otherwise drop on the ground, and will make the loss of the
queen, even with w careless operator, almost impossible. The few re-
maining bees may be whisked off with a feather as we walk towards our
extractor. The brood should be disturbed as little as possible, but the
sealing from the honey cells, which encloses the nectar in an air-tight
ease, must be shaved off before the honey can escape, and for this
purpose the correct tool is a double edged knife with a long narrow
blade, bent up near the point, and almost like a trowel at the handle-
‘Two of these are often employed; one gets into condition by standing
in a narrow vessel of hot water, while the other is in the hand of the
operator. The uncapping complete, the frame is dropped into position
in the extractor, and the next taken from the hive to be treated as the
first, and then placed opposite to its companion in the cage. This is
necessary, for when rotation commences so violent is the strain caused
by the effort of the comb to fly off at a tangent, that the whole appa-
ratus without this balance would rock and sway in a most uncomfortable

 

Fie. 45.
CENTRIFUGAL ExTRactoR.
70 PRACTICAL BEE KEEPING.

manner. A few turns, and an examination will reveal all honey gone
from one side. We reverse the frames, give a few turns more, and they,
merely damp with a residue of honey, are ready to be returned for
refilling.

A very useful extractor, or smielatore, as the Italians call it, for
smaller apiaries, has been some time in use in Italy, and was sold at
the Florence Exhibition of Apicultural Appliances for 6 francs, or about
5s. It can be so easily manufactured that we quote a description :*
“The upper part is simply a square tin box and cover (Fig. 46) into
which the frame full of honey is placed, so as to rest upon the wire
grating, which forms the bottom of the box, and can be removed to be
cleaned. This grating is made of wire netting, of five wires to the inch,

   

L

 

Fig. 46. Fie. 47.
SMIELATORE ComB CHAMBER. SMIELATORE Honey Box.

and is soldered round the edges to a frame of strong iron wire. On one
side of this grating (the lower one when it is placed in the smielatore)
it is strengthened by two diagonal stout iron wires which cross each
other at the centre, the ends being soldered to opposite corners of the
frame. The lower part of the smielatore is simply a funnel, shaped like
an inverted pyramid (Fig. 47), at the apex of which there is a round tin
tube (F), which is closed by a cork (N), when the smielatore is whirled
round to extract the honey from the comb, and when that operation is
finished the cork is pulled out, and the honey flows into any jar placed
for it. If the purest honey is desired then on the inside of the funnel,

 

* «The Itahan System of Beekeeping.” By Mr. Danyell; edited by Mr
Tegetmeier (The Field office).
SUPERING, EXTRACTING, AND HARVESTING. 7

at a short distance from the tube, a second and much finer grating may
be soldered to the sides of the funnel. For this a piece of the finest
wire netting, 4in. by 3in. is required; it is bound with a narrow border
of tin, and soldered in its place. This finer grating will clear the honey
of any particle of wax, pollen, &c. The handle of the smielatore is
of thick iron wire, curved as shown in the figures, and fixed to the two
sides of the smielatore.

‘* How to use the Smielatore—Having taken a frame with honey in the
comb (if the cells are full and have been sealed up by the bees it will
be necessary to cut away the coverings so that the honey may flow freely),
lay it on the upper compartment, shut the smielatore, and hang it by
loop M ona stout stick, about 5ft. long, Ry moving the stick, swing
the smielatore round a few times, then open’ 5 turn the frame so as to
take the honey on the other side of the comb; again swing the smielatore
round the stick a few more times and then all the honey that was in the
comb will be found in the funnel, and may be drawn off through the
tap. Replace the empty comb:in the hive and in a few days the bees
will have refilled it. The same operation may be repeated again and
again during the season.”

But little practice will be required before the smielatore can be worked
with comfort. Let the first attempt he made with the apparatus empty,
two persons holding the pole, L M, which should be of ash, and not less
than 1}in. in diameter, betweenthem. A circular motion given to both
ends of the pole will at once put the smielatore in rotation, and a trial or
two will enable the experimentor to stop it as it comes to the upright
position, which is necessary in practice, by first slackening the motion
and then taking hold of the iron handle. The knack having been ac-
quired, one end of the pole may have the irou loop, embracing a con-
veniently placed staple, fixed at its end with screws. A small groove at
M, about 20in. from the iron loop, should be cut, but not so deeply as to
endanger the breaking of the pole.

A few words must be devoted to those who would manufacture an
extractor at home. It is most desirable to make the running gear light,
and the can as small as possible; but as the centrifugal power for the
same number of revolutions in a given time varies as the distance from
the centre, the middle part of the comb must not, by contracting the
cage, be brought too near to the spindle. And as the force acts radially
it will be found that, if a wide comb be so placed the strain at the top
and bottom of it will be as much upon the side of the cell as towards its
opening so that more force must be used, with a liability of damaging the
comb. The comb should always stand end downwards in an extractor,
leaning somewhat outwards above, so that it will keep in place before the
apparatus is started, and this position also assists in throwing out the
honey as gravity acts along with the centrifugal power.

   
72 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

Where the honey season is short, but abundant, the harvest obtained.
by the extractor is immensely greater than that which supers can supply.
Where the extractor is used the following plan works admirably:
From a stock take out all the bees (see Artificial Swarming, p. 45),
placing the swarm on the old stand, and putting the driven hive as
a super over another strong stock. As the bees hatch out, the enormous
working population, the progeny of two queens, will carry astounding
weights of honey, which they will store in the upper hive. Using the
extractor every four or five days will very generally prevent swarming,
which will be still less likely if the queen be one of the current year.
When the honey season flags the hives may be separated, dividing the
brood between them, and giving a queen from a nucieus (see Chapter X.)
to the queenless part.

The process of running honey, as usually performed, is rather a tedious
one, but where there is an extractor or smielatore the housewife will be
saved much labour, since super combs, as well as those from hives, can
be better cleared by its means than by any other. Some gelatinous
heather honey forms an exception. Failing the extractor, the combs
must be assorted and all traces of brood cut out (which, by the way, if
worker, should be promptly, after removal, placed over some hive held
perpendicularly and at iin. apart by little wooden uprights, and covered
up warmly under a super, when it will be tended until hatched, strength-
ening the hive and rendering the work of obtaining wax from the comb
the easier). Returning to our honey, the cells are sliced through and
draining commenced in hair sieves, colanders, or on strained canvas.
In three or four days, the operation being facilitated by a warm atmo-
phere, and the combs turned occasionally, most of the honey will be
secured, but not without much waste.

By pressing the pure combs into a big jar, and raising all slowly to
a temperature above that of melting wax, when it can be run through
canvas and left to cool, the honey scarcely suffers at all in quality, less
of it is lost, and much time is saved. The wax now removed, the honey
is ready for filling into glasses, which should be securely tied over.

If inferior comb be treated in this manner, the dispersion of the pollen
will render the honey turbid, but by placing the latter in a covered vessel
in a quiet corner in the kitchen for a few months, the pollen will settle.
The honey, now clear and bright, although probably of a dark colour,
may be drawn off by a siphon until the sediment is reached, but care
must be taken that the leg of the siphon does not dip deeply, or cloudi-
ness will be the result. Give waste of all kinds (taking care that no
robbing is induced) to the bees, who will clarify, filter, and store as they
alone can.*

* Waste may be used in the making of vinegar, said to be of excellent quality, by
washing with as little water as conveniently practicable, the broken combs after

 
SUPERING, EXTRACTING, AND HARVESTING. 73

If the honey is to be marketed, quality and colour are matters of
importance, and by the use of the extractor specialities may be obtained.
For example, if the white clover, which yields most beautifully trans-
parent nectar, is beginning to be worked, from those combs we intend
extracting we remove all the darker coloured and comparatively inferior
honey which has been gathered from the fruit trees and earlier blooms.
In these combs the clover honey will be stored without deterioration
from admixture, and may be thrown out to the end of this important
harvest in almost absolute purity.

Wax clarifying is best delayed until the bees are fully at rest, and all
the odds and ends of comb of the year which can be put to no better use
are gathered together for melting up. If it be done whilst bees are
flying, the odour of the warm wax is to them so very enticing that the
melting room will be most annoyingly besieged. It is economical to sort
the collection into virgin comb (that in which breeding has not taken
place) and brood comb. The first, being boiled with plenty of water, is
poured through a gravy strainer into an earthenware vessel, which has
first been slightly rubbed with soap to prevent adhesion of the wax. It
is now cooled as slowly as possible. If really fine wax be desired, the
vessel containing it will be wrapped up to retard solidification, to give
time for any impurities to settle. The cake is then lifted from the water,
the soiled parts beneath cut or scraped off, and the remainder remelted
and poured into moulds. Such wax will be suitable for exhibition. The
brood combs will be boiled similarly, and the whole poured through a
strainer as before, and the chrysalis cases and debris removed from time
to time, after squeezing with a ladle, in order to clear the strainer for a
fresh charge. The débris still contains a good deal of wax, and may, as
it has been pressed into a small space, be easily put, into a coarse calico
bag, with a piece of lead to sink it, and again boiled, a plate or fish
strainer being put beneath to prevent burning. Kneading it about with
the ladle during the boiling will cause most of the wax to rise to be
skimmed off and added to the second quality wax before obtained, a final
squeeze with a wet rolling pin on a wet board will leave little behind.
The whole now obtained should be boiled with clean water poured into

 

they have been drained. The sieves, canvas, &c., which have entered into the
process of draining, are also made to give up their sweets byrinsing. The honeyed
water, which should contain not less than 2Ib, to the gallon, is now exposed to the
action of the air and the greatest heat of the sun; acetous fermentation takes
place, and in about six weeks, vinegar is the result. Or waste honey may be con-
verted into an alcoholic drink called metheglin, for the making of which Mr. Bag-
shaw gives the following recipe: Select combs, free from brood, that have had the
honey drained from them; place the combs in a vessel and put as much lukewarm
water upon them as will enable them to swim, let them stand_two days and stir
occasionally, strain the liquor and let it stand another day. Skim carefully and
filter; when clear, boil an hour ; the liquor will be sufficiently strong if an eRe will
float in it. To 8 gallons, add 1b. raisins, loz. ginger, and seven or eight laurel leaves.
‘When cool, add a little brewer's balm, and after standing a day, barrel it, but leave
it open a few days to work ; then cork it up, leaving it some months before bottling.
74 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

the soaped vessel and cooled slowly as before, and the settlings scraped or
melted off by toasting before the fire, the impure droppings being caught
in water and returned to the receptacle for scraps for subsequent clari-
fying.

Bleaching is performed by pouring wax on to water just cooler than
that at which wax melts, it spreads itself out into thin plates, which
are removed as fast as they set, when they are exposed for several days
to the action of the sun on cloths or trays.

Honeydew is one of the nuisances of the beekeeper. When passing,
whilst the sun is shining, beneath trees on the under sides of the leaves
of which the aphis (green fly) is found, a shower of minute drops may
generally be noticed. This is honeydew, which is produced from the
bodies of the aphides, and may be seen on the upper sides of the leaves
of the trees affected, as a sticky varnish. Its taste is unpleasant,
although sweetish; but unfortunately bees appear to like it, for they
gather it often in large quantities when true honey is not abundant. Its
colour is exceedingly dark. We have seen aphide honey from sycamores
as deep in tone as walnut liquor, and where much of it is stored the value
of the whole crop is practically nil.

Propolis, found in every hive, has not as yet been turned by man to his
account. It is a resinous substance obtained principally from the
hybernacula or leaf buds of poplars, chesnuts, &c. The bees carry it
as they do pollen, and withit not only varnishand strengthen their combs,
but fill every objectionable crack and cranny ; it much annoys the movable
comb hivist, as the bees are always using it for fixing everything, but the
application of a little tallow will reduce its hold as well as disincline the
bees to insert it. We have seen a window cooling the interior uncom-
fortably coated over with wu wall of this substance, and it is often
to be noticed used in considerable amount in contracting hive entrances.
If the fingers get soiled with it soap does not readily remove it; soda
and hot water are required, but spirits of wine dissolves it at once—one
application, a wipe with a cloth, and the fingers are clean. The more
fastidious will find eau de Cologne produce the same satisfactory result
immediately.
ESTABLISHING AN APIARY, AND LIGURIANIZING. 7b

CHAPTER X.
ei ee

ESTABLISHING AN APIARY, AND LIGURIANIZING.

SELECTING BEES FOR PURCHASE—— CONDEMNED BEES— HIVE
RANGES—TRANSFERRING— TRANSFERRING BOARD—STRAIGHT-
ENING BARBS——-LIGURIANS—IMPORTED QUEENS——CHESHIRE Di-
VIDING FRAME— NUCLEUS HIVES—— COLOURS FOB HIVES—
QUEEN RBAISING—-PURE, IMPREGNATION—-LAMP NURSERIES—
INSERTING QUEENS—CAGES—-REGICIDAL KNOT—CARR CAGE—
RAYNOR CAGE —FUMIGATION —- HYBRIDIZING —- DRONES, HOW
PRODUCED—FERTILE WORKERS.

AN apiary may be started by the purchase of swarms or stocks. The
latter, in skeps, being generally most economical. It is only exception-
ally desirable to buy stocks in frame hives on account of the difficulty
of transit and the higher cost. In selecting skeps choose those that have
swarmed the year before, and that consequently possess a young queen,.
giving preference to those with large flat plates of comb (especially
if it is intended to transfer to frame hives), and in which drone size is
not over abundant. Casts of the year before will give the desirable
conditions. In the autumn the bees ought to be strong in numbers, and
in the early spring there should at least be four or five seams of them.
At the close of the honey season, bees condemned by the cottagers to the
sulphur pit, may be purchased very cheaply, about 1s. per hive; but
where heath abounds, their owners do not take them up early enough to
allow the method now given to be carried out satisfactorily. These being
taken by drumming three or four skeps into one,* and then transferred
into an empty hive, and fed well until they weigh 20lb. or 25lb., will
usually make good stocks in the following spring, as they build no drone

 

* Where these bees are taken by fumigation, which we do not recommend, those
from three or four hives should be poured into a box consisting largely of perfo-
rated zinc, when the free circulation of air will quickly restore them. Indeed,
swarms stand long journeys in such boxes much better than in inverted skeps
covered with canvas ; but if they are used for making artificial swarms, the perfo-
rations must for the time be covered from the light, or the bees will not freely
enter
76 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

comb. These condemned bees are of service also in strengthening stocks
otherwise not populous enough to enter upon the winter. They must be
added with the precautions given under the head “ Uniting.”

In plannir an apiary, let it be remembered that it is by no means
necessary tha. the hives should face the south or south-east, as some say;
the well doing of the colony being apparently so little affected by this
that authorities may be found pleading for the advantages of each
point of the compass ; and where hives are necessarily somewhat crowded
placing the alighting boards in different directions considerably reduces
the difficulties arising from excessive proximity. Thus, if four hives be
placed in a close line running from east to west, and face in the sequence
east, south, north, west, the young queens would not be at all endangered,
from the cause pointed
out already (see Bee
Houses), and the bees
would hardly be likely to
get on terms too friendly
—a common cause, un-
happily, of a quarrel,
both with bees and their
masters.

With such a disposi-
Fig. 48. Hive Rance. tion of flight holes, hive
; ranges for three or four
stocks, such as seen at Fig. 48, may with convenience and economy be
substituted for separate stands.

Skeps are commonly purchased with the idea of transferring their
contents into frame hives, an operation not by any means difficult.
Having cleared out the bees by “Drumming” (see Chapter VI.), we
proceed to draw all sticks, if such exist, either seizing them by a pair of
nippers at the projecting ends, and rotating them, to detach them
from the combs, or, we may minimise the destruction of bee handy-
work by sacrificing the skep, simply cutting it in half while inverted,
by passing through its sides, and between the combs, a sharp dinner
knife. If we refuse to destroy the skep honey knives must be used.
Of these there are two, one used to cut combs from the sides of the
hive, and which a piece of
straight hoop iron from
1l4in. to 18in. long, and
ground at the end may well
replace; while the other
(Fig. 49) consists of an iron or steel rod about 2ft. long and 5-16ths of an
inch thick, having 2in. at its extremity turned to arightangle. The latter
part is formed into a cutting blade, the surface of which is horizontal

 

Fie. 49. Honey Knire,
ESTABLISHING AN APIARY, AND LIGURIANIZING. 77

when the rod is held in a perpendicular position. The first knife having
performed its work, the second is brought into play; having slipped it
down by the side of the comb, it is turned so as to bring its blade into
position for cutting the comb from the hive roof. This accomplished,
carefully lift the comb and place it upon a board, greater in length and
breadth than the frames which we are to transfer. This board will be
less likely to damage the delicate edges of the cells or the covers of the
pups if it has tacked upon it two or three thicknesses of woollen cloth.
Place the frame over the comb, and with a sharp dinner knife mark the
size of the former upon the latter, so that when trimmed it will fit as
accurately as its size and shape will admit of, taking care that the top of
the comb, as built in the old hive, shall also be the top as you fix it, for
the cells are made to incline somewhat upwards. Keep the comb against
one side of the frame, in order that w firm attachment may the more
quickly be made; and fit in any good pieces of worker comb that may
aid in filling out the frames. Thickened combs should be shaved down

  
           

   

= ee =

SSS
Sa i

SS OT

 

 

     
 

  

LT i
Wit i
us Ur
nn
MTT

Fic. 50. CHErsHirnE TRANSFERRING BoarD.

while drone cells should be wholly rejected, or placed only in the upper
part of the outside frames. Should the comb not be deep enough to fit
down to the bottom of the frame, it is necessary to put against its lower
edge w strip of thin wood, about 3in. wide, when two or three tapes,
that ought to have been laid on the board before putting the comb
down, are passed around the frame and comb, or comb and lath, as the
case may be, and securely tied. The board is now raised to the perpen-
dicular, with the comb and frame upon it, when the latter is lifted by the
ears and placed in the hive. Whilst treating the combs thus seriatim, it
is highly important to keep the brood together, and if their previous
relative positions be preserved better fitting will be secured.

Our prize transferring board, which we used while operating at the
Crystal Palace, will be found to much facilitate the process. The
operator places the apparatus upon a table standing opposite its face
A, B, (Fig. 50).
78 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

The comb is now put upon the sixteen rods, made somewhat like the
teeth of a hair comb, with its top towards the operator.. The marking
and trimming is managed as before described, while the zinc tray G, H,
catches the bleeding honey, which falls immediately through, or runs down

 

 

Fig, 51, TRANSFERRING Boarp (SEcrTIoN.)

to the dropping edge seen in the cross section V, (Fig. 51), while the edge of
the tray (Y, Z) allows the knife to be conveniently cleaned by scraping.
Tape, W, or lead wire (we prefer the former) is now passed through
between the teeth and beneath the lath; or, if
the comb extend to the bottom of the frame,
beneath the bottom rail (U), and tied at X, at
the angle of the top bar T.

A firmer knot can be more easily made here
(asin Fig. 52) than at any other point. Theframe
is now pushed from the operator until its bot-
tom rail touches C, D (Fig. 50), or S (Fig. 52),
when the apparatus is raised in front until it
stands on its back, M, N (Fig. 52). When the
comb and frame rest in the perpendicular
position, as seen at P, R (Fig. 52), it is lifted
by its ears and placed in the hive.

‘When the transferring board is out of use, the
hook at F (Fig. 50) is unfastened, when the feet
fold back, and the four wire eyes of the tray,
three of which are seen at G, B, and H (Fig.
50), slide over two of the teeth, keeping it in
position, while within the tray can be placed the
brush, tapes, knife, and other requisites—no small convenience when the
transferring has to be done at a distance from home. The thickness
when closed is 1}in.

Tf the combs are much waved, it may be desirable to place a slat of

 
ESTABLISHING AN APIARY, AND LIGURIANIZING. 99

thin wood inch longer than the frame on each side of it, and pass a
small india-rubber ring over the projecting ends; this will straighten
the comb until the bees have made it secure. Where much transferring is
done, these slats may be kept fastened together in pairs, by a string the
same length as the width of the frame. When these are clapped over
the comb, fastening the free ends will be the work of a few seconds. It
will be impossible to prevent the destruction of some larve, but the
beginner need not grow faint hearted. Repairs will be executed in a
wondreus manner, while the mortally wounded, and the killed, will be
cuickly removed, their juices helping to sustain the labourers in their
arduous duties. The motto, “ waste not, want not,” seeming to be more
universally acknowledged by bees than by men.

The work so far completed, the bees must be introduced according to
the plans already given (see page 32). The honey set running during
the operation will be gathered up, and will supply immediate needs ; but
great demands will be made fer wax secretion, to fill gaps and make
attachments, so that it is usually good economy to feed slowly for a day
er two, but of course eireumstance Hable to much variation must be
our guide.

In forty-eight hours an examination may be made, when if the combs
appear firmly fixed, the tapes may be removed ; but excessive haste is the
precursor of disaster, as one comb falling, will, like a tumbling skittle,
knock down most of the others. Let the beginner, who has concluded
that artificial supports are no longer necessary, draw a sharp knife across
the tape, severing it upon the top rail of the frame, as it occupies its
usual position; it may then be gently raised, carefully preserving the
perpendicular. The tapes, by a touch, can now be detached from each
side, without giving the jar to the tender work so likely to lead to
discomfiture if the whole operation is carried out by a novice when the
frame is out of the hive, If the tapes be not removed, the bees will
tease and fret them until they dislodge them literally fibre by fibre.
Several years since, wo had fastened in a comb by a string, and quite
forgotten the circumstance, until apparently, a piece of extremely thick
chenille was observed waving in a singular manner at the hive door.
The chenille as we approached, resolved itself into a dense chain of bees
most earnestly flying, while holding on to the string, which they had
torn almost to fluff, had separated from their comb, and were endeavour-
ing to eject altogether from their domain, success being only delayed by
the string locking itself. between the hive and the bottom board.

During the honey harvest, transferring may be performed in the open,
but generally, a building is necessary to avoid the annoyance of robbers.
Chilly weather is unfit, because the brood is likely to suffer while repair
is carried on tardi'y. Vory hot weather makes the combs so soft, that
they sink out of form, the lower cells being flattened by the weight of
80 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

those above them. The recommendation to transfer three weeks after
swarming has its advantages, but is not without its dangers. The
brood will all have hatched out, but the combs will generally be heavy
with honey, so that they will be not a whit more easy to handle; and if
the queen has not obtained fertilization—quite a possibility at this date
~—we may take up the skep at the moment of her absence, and cause her
loss. Four or five days after transferring, it is desirable to clean the
bottom board, as a considerable amount of débris is thrown down in the
process of repairing and refitting.

The Ligurian, or more properly the Alp bee, with its beautiful yellow
bands, strong whitish pubescent rings, and gracefully modelled abdomen
has not wanted for champions who have again and again asserted its vast
superiority over our more sombre hued variety ; nor has the latter been left
altogether without defenders, who may, we think, fairly claim that black bees
properly handled, in this country at least, achieve results certainly not far
pehiud those placed to the credit of itsrival. A lengthened observation of
the two is evidently needed before a conclusion of any value can be arrived
at. Weare of opinion that the Ligurian (Apis ligustica) is much more
prolific than the black (Apis mellifica), and that it is ready for swarming
earlier, advantages of no mean weight; but we have failed to note that
greater strength of constitution in the foreigner which some assert.
We also think the preference given to imported queens a mistake on more
grounds than one. Sometimes, undoubtedly, the Italian dealers raise
these mothers in very small hives, with but few bees, and as a result the
queens are weak and fade early; we have seen such scarcely larger than
workers. The transit occupying many days generally reduces the ‘‘ royal
prisoners’’ to w very poor condition, and this necessarily for a time,
probably permanently, injures the constitution. Imported queens, although
often of fine quality, are, for the reasons given, not, on am average, equal,
from the utilitarian point of view, to those Ingurians raised at home,
which ought to be always the progeny of the best stocks in the apiary
(see “‘ Artificial Swarming’), while they are bred in the midst of a strong
population, from eggs laid by » mother very actively ovipositing, and
have no subsequent check. If pure impregnation be obtained, or a mis-
alliance occur, the bees resulting are always excellent as honey gatherers ;
in the latter case they are even better than in the former, although
eesthetically and in temper much inferior.

The black bee hardly now exists, everywhere he has been improved by
foreign blood, In 1874 in a most isolated moorland in Northumberland,
where frame hives were unknown, but where little skeps abound, we
failed to find a pure specimen of the English variety.

Previous chepters haye already shown the advantage of having at
command fertile queens. To facilitate the operation of raising these we
introduced our dividing frame by means of which small hives with little
ESTABLISHING AN APIARY, AND LIGURIANIZING. 81

lots of bees (technically nuclei) can be readily formed, and having done
duty returned to any stock without loss. We will explaix. the method of
making the frame, giving the measurements for the Woodbury, but these
can, of course, be most easily altered to any standard.

A strip of wood (Fig. 53) gin. thick and jin. wide is cut 16lin. long,

 

  
   

   

 

 

4AZAiZzZ é
ez a c@mesfrg 4 z
Fia. 53.

and pencil lines b and h are drawn across it fin. from its extremities,
the line e occupies the centre, exactly 8}in. from each end, and ¢, d, e, f,
and g, are placed at fin. from each other, k 1 and m n are now added with
a gauge marker, and, e being cut through with a fine saw, the parts shaded
are removed. The tongue thus left on one half fits into the hollow made
in the other, so that the two being shut together the length of the bar
is reduced to 15in. and fits the Woodbury hive. To the respective halves,
with brads or panel pins, the uprights of the frames, each 8in. long,
are fixed, having their outer faces upon the lines b and d,f and h. The
bottom bars complete the whole, which takes the form of Fig. 54. Holes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fie. 54, CHESHIRE TwIn Frag.
bored at p and q, receiving a bellhanger’s clip when the halves have been
put together, make the frame fit to receive the comb, which should
contain hatching brood, and may be transferred from an ordinary frame
with scarcely any loss. It may then be placed in the hive whence the
comb was taken, for the bees to fix and repair the latter. In twenty-four
hours it will be ready for removal to the nucleus hive, which for these
frames should be 33in. wide inside, 9in. deep, and 74 from front to rear.
We make ours with double sides, with air space, this is desirable, as bees
thus protected, even when in small numbers, maintain their necessary
heat; while in their makeshift nucleus boxes they are chilled at night and
scorched by day, and often raise poor and weak queens from the cells
EF
62 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

supplied to them. A water tight roof is necessary, nor must arrange--
ments for feeding be forgotten, as small nuclei scarcely ever gather
food enough to maintain themselves. The nucleus hive, and indeed
every hive, if painted, should be of light colour, because light colours
radiate heat less freely than dark ones, they are therefore warmer
in cold weather. Nature is true to her laws in bleaching the coats
of the Polar bear and Arctic fox. Light colours, also, are cooler in
the direct rays of the sun, because they do not absorb heat. For quite
similar reasons every hive should be smooth on the outside, mere bee
comfort considered, altogether apart from the question of appearance
and durability. To stock the nucleus, remove the dividing frame—be
sure the queen is not upon it—and separate the parts, disturbing the
adherent bees as little as possible, place the halves side by side in position,
and cover warmly. The older bees will return to the parent stock, so
that a frame containing young bees should be shaken on to a board in
front of the nucleus*—these will make up the population, the strength of
which will be maintained by new bees hatching out. A queen cell may
now be inserted, as before described (see p. 43), taking care to keep it as
much between the combs as possible, and the queen utilised when she
becomes fertile, or she may be kept until “ proved,”’ 7.e., her qualities declared
by her young bees hatching. Nuclei are often used to secure the pure-
mating of Ligurian mothers, which can never be calculated upon if they
are allowed to fly at will, howsoever numerous our yellow banded drones
may be, if black suitors are at all found in the locality. A great assistance.
in this matter is to stimulate a Ligurian stock very early in the year, by
feeding, and even also by the addition of bees, or cards of brood, so that
the coveted drones may be raised in a comb of the larger cells purposely
placed in the centre of the brood nest, before the time that any sable
rascals are called into existence. The nymphs being raised immediately
after we think fit to remove the queen; the course is clear, and is only
likely to be frustrated by weather so chilly that the gentlemen “to.
pleasure born” refuse to leave the snug hive, although the queen will
fly again and again until her marriageable age (about three weeks) is
passed, when she will commence to lay a comparatively small number of
eges which will produce drones only. The order may be reversed, and
queens raised so late in the year (latter part of September) that nor-
mally all drones will have been destroyed. The yellow banded ones
upon which we are depending being reserved by keeping their colony
queenless, such allowing the males to live, and even giving asylum to
those of other hives, but failure is not infrequent, and then the year ig
gone, making recovery impossible. With nuclei success is all but certain
if we act as follows: Having chosen our drone-raising and queen-raising

* In this way at any time the population may be strengthened as occasion.
requires.
ESTABLISHING AN APIARY, AND LIGURIANIZING. 83

stocks (it is better that these should not be one and the same), the
nuclei receiving cells from the latter are placed near the former;
on the evening of the sixth day after the hatching of each queen
(queens generally fly when seven days old, see page 6) the nucleus
containing her is placed in a dark cupboard or cellar after the flight
hole has been closed by perforated zinc. The next afternoon being
so far advanced that drones are for the most part quietly resting
from their midday wanderings, the drone-containing hive is opened and
thoroughly warm diluted honey sprinkled over bees and frames. The
nucleus is now brought from its hiding place and placed so that the sun
shines fully into the flight hole, while it is also treated to a libation of
warm bee nectar. The queen will in all probability soon issue, to be joined
by one of the drones, which will in large numbers be now careering
around the excited stock. If the drones seem idle jerk some of them
from a frame into the air. Should the queen fail to come forth the
operation may be repeated the following day. When the nuclei are no
longer required their frames may be placed in one hive, which one of the
hatched queens may head.

The Americans have lately been hatching royal cells in little chambers
warmed by a lamp. Queens from these “lamp nurseries” if simply
dropped in amongst the bees of a colony needing them are almost always
received at once. For the exceptions as yet no satisfactory reason hag
been assigned. 3

Bees upon losing their queens are in w few hours thrown into the
greatest possible excitement, searching wildly both inside and outside the
hive for the lost sovereign, when occasionally they will gladly accept an
alien ; but in the majority of instances the aspirant for the vacant throne
is either killed at once or surrounded (“encased’’) by a dense mass of
closely clinging bees, whose grip is often unrelaxed until the poor worried
insect dies after three or four days of
imprisonment. Sometimes, however, the BIOS
last breaks up. Strangers may be intro-
duced by means of cages, which admit // i RY
of an acquaintance being formed while l
the queen is safe from attack; after a ANTAL AN i}
day or two of confinement the workers UNITE
attend her, as soon as released, with
every appearance of attachment. The
most simple form of cage, the one we
almost always use, is seen of the true Fic. 55. QuEEN’s Caca.
size at Fig. 55, and consists of a ring
of tin plate on to which is soldered a dome of wire cloth, with meshes
about a tenth square. The queen whom we desire to instal, being an

F2

ement dually slackens and at Joffe SS
encasem gradually ’ Af 7. LEER =
ok
AN

HU

A

\)
GAN

 
84, PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

imported one, the box containing her should be opened under caver, as
she is likely to fly. This trouble arising in the open air, a little patience
will commonly be rewarded by seeing her return to the comb whence she
took wing. Place her upon w piece of card hardly wider than the cage,
which is carefully popped over her. Select a tough brood comb, and upon
a part of it containing some unsealed honey, after having driven the
bees from the spot by smoke, place card and cage; slip away the card with
caution, for a tiny leg is soon broken, and then with a screwing motion
cut the tin rim into the comb down to the midrib, as in Fig. 56. With
skeps the cage may be placed in the bung hole and the bees kept about
it by the food bottle. We always feed whilst a queen is caged ina frame
hive, and believe that it facilitates the
introduction, since we rarely find any risk
in giving the prisoner liberty in twenty-
four hours. The usual practice, however,
is to continue the confinement three days.
When the cage is lifted, if the would-be
mother-in-law is touched constantly with
antennz, whilst the way is cleared for her
as she advances, all is well, but if the
throng rudely crowd about her, and clam-
ber upon her wings an encasement is to
be feared, when she had better be re-
turned to the cage for another day. The
encasement of a queen is always attended
with a good deal of noise and uproar,
distinctly heard at the hive door. The

Fie. 56. Query Caos Fixup. eekeeper may conclude that “all’s well”
if quietude reigns after a queen is liberated, but when circumstances are
suspicious the hive should be opened and the regicidal knot broken up,
either picking the bees one by one from the mass or dipping the whole
into warm water, when the queen escapes with a ducking. Some bee-
keepers assert, and no doubt with truth, that the disturbance occasioned by
opening the hive to release the queen diminishes her chance of a favour-
able reception, and have, in order to make the opening of the hive
unnecessary, invented forms about which a word or two must be given.
We, however, much prefer to watch the action of the bees, and have
more than once saved the life of a valuable queen, which certainly
never would have been received from circumstances existing in the hive
of which we were ignorant. The well known Mr. W. Carr, first in the
field, gave us, many years sitce, w cage larger in area than the one
already figured, but which is in a similar manner pressed into the
comb while a wire drawn out through the feeding hole admits of the
pulling of a slide which allowed the queen to pass into the midst of

 
ESTABLISHING AN APIARY, AND LIGURIANIZING. 85

those bees that had before been paying court to her through the prison
bars. Many prominent apiculturists are fully of opinion that the intense
animosity often shown by bees to a stranger queen will not in any case
prevent them feeding her if she be caged amongst them. If this opinion
be correct, the access to the food which the cages previously mentioned
give, is unnecessary. The talented ‘‘ Renfrewshire Beekeeper ”’ has accord-
ingly introduced an admirable little cage, which, as somewhat modified
by the Rev. G. Raynor, appears in our illustration (Fig. 57). Its body
fits the unvarying width between the combs,
while the plate above, dropping on to the
frames or feed hole, prevents it from slipping
into the hive, the wire connected with the
lower door giving liberty to the prisoner when
it is depressed. The Rev. G. Raynor thus
describes his use of this cage in the British
Bee Journal: ‘My hybrid stocks being in
bar frame hives, the queen was taken from
each stock, the hive closed, the cage inserted
through the centre hole, and the old queen
placed in the cage through the upper door,
where she remained about six hours. She was then liberated, and the
Ligurian queen, by means of the upper door, without any disturbance
of bees or cage, took her place. After an imprisonment of twenty-
four hours, the new queen was introduced to her new subjects by
means of the lower door, again without the least disturbance—in most
cases after dark. On the following day each insertion was verified ;
and the thrill of pleasure on beholding twelve new monarchs in
succession safely enthroned perambulating’the brood combs of large and
populous bar frame hives, such monarchs, too, for size and colour! will
be better realised by old beekeepers than described by me.’ These
honeyless cages have not always succeeded, however. The queen in
them, so far as appearances can be trusted, occasionally being allowed to
starve; but the failures have mostly been noted as occurring where
breeding has been long-suspended, and consequently where young bees,
whose natural duty is that of feeding, are not found. Although queens
can be most easily established at the heads of colonies where young
bees are abundant, the presence of eggs and freshly hatched grubs
from which princesses may be evolved, must always be regarded as an
impediment ; and if royal cells have been commenced before the queen,
for whom a throne is sought, is caged in the hive, they should be care-
fully destroyed. In the height of the honey season the older workers
are so busily occupied in filling the store combs, whilst the juveniles of
the brood nest are so unsuspectingly ready to act as “maids in waiting”’
to any royal lady, that the rightful sovereign may be quickly picked up

 

Fie. 5%,
RayyNor QUEEN CAGE.
86 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

and a usurper at once put into her place, with but little chance of her
being challenged, while still more commonly a queen would be accepted
by orphan bees if she be simply well smeared with honey taken from the
hive to which she is presented. But experiments such as these only the
expert should try.

Fumigation is occasionally resorted to for introducing queens. Puff
ball, well dried, is lighted and placed in some such apparatus as Fig. 58,
and by means of the breath or a pair of bellows a stream of air is driven
through the burning puff into the hive mouth. If operating upon a skep
a second one inverted should be placed under it to receive the bees, which
soon become comatose and fall from their combs, a gentle pat or two
shaking them down. The queen is now looked for and removed, when
the stranger, with her body guard, is placed in possession of the combs,
where she will soon be joined by her then unconscious daughters-in-law.
Apiarians are generally of opinion that fumigation is prejudicial, while
it certainly is but rarely necessary. Where bees persist in refusing a
queen it may become inevitable. We have also used it in changing the
queens of swarms of a few weeks old, whose combs have been too tender
to admit of drumming.

So-called systems of Ligurianizing are legion, but in almost every case

 

Fig. 58. Fumicator.

they can only be recommended to the tyro, since they produce hybrids
instead of pure bees. Here is an example. Having one Ligurian stock
to Ligurianize by it a number of black ones. Drive the Ligurians and
one of the black stocks. Reverse the stands of the driven hives, and
return the bees at their old stations, destroying the black queen before
doing so. The black bees will raise a new queen from the Ligurian eggs.
Repeat the process at intervals of a week with the stock then containing
the Ligurian queen and the other black stocks in order. The temporary
occupation of the Ligurian queen gives time for all the black eggs to
hatch and get past the stage in which they can be converted into
princesses, Ligurian eggs at the same time being deposited; but since
while queens are flying it is impossible to keep trapping drones from the
colonies containing them, hybridisation would occur nineteen times out of
twenty, while the new queen is obtained at the cost of twenty-five days’
egg laying, a period much reduced by the plans elsewhere given in these
pages.

It has been previously stated that if a queen continue to fail to meet
a partner when she again and again flies to secure the responsibilities of
ESTABLISHING AN APIARY, AND LIGURIANIZING. 8?

maternity, she at length deposits eggs producing drones only. The
vitalizing fluid retained in the spermatheca of the impregnated mother
causing the eggs brought in contact with it to produce workers, while
those eggs not so affected yield males only. That is, drones are hatched
from unimpregnated eggs. Hence a black queen mated with a Ligurian
will produce crossed workers and black drones, and vice verst, but it
is by no means settled that the drones of unimpregnated queens are
equally virile with those of the impregnated. This interesting question
must not, however, draw us from our intention of adhering to the
* practical’? only in these pages, our object in introducing it being to say
something of fertile workers, 1.e., worker bees (all of which are known to
be undeveloped females), capable of laying eggs. Sometimes, soon after
the loss of a queen, less frequently at other times, evidences will be
found of the presence of one of these pests, the cells will either
contain three, four, or more eggs each, or will have been considerably
elongated to give room for the excessive size of the grubs—drones,
although in worker cells. The fertile worker cannot be distinguished
from the rest. She is destroying the hive, and queens stand very little
chance of safe introduction while she lives. The bees, in despair, often
construct queen cells around her eggs, which of course yield dead drones
only. The giving of a normal queen cell will now and again succeed ; but
after all the worker brood the hive contains has been some days hatched
out we may try this plan of losing the pseudo-mother: Take all the
frames and adherent bees from the hive to a distance of twenty or thirty
yards, and then jerk the bees into the air; they willreturn to their known
stand, but the fertile worker, not having flown, will probably be lost.
The combs will be replaced, and if eggs cease to appear in them a new
queen may be given, but the colony is usually by this time only worth
uniting to another.

Our friend, Mr. J. Hunter, has had quite recently the good fortune to
obtain, through Mr. Obed Poole, a worker caught in the act of ovipositing.
Upon dissection, one of the ovaries was found to be rudimentary, but the
other was partially developed. Five of its ovarian tubes (egg tubes)
contained about twenty eggs each. At last, then, anatomical demonstra-
tion of the existence of fertile workers has been obtained.
88 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

CHAPTER XI.

aw gate

DISEASES AND ENEMIES,

FOUL BROOD — SIGNS OF —— CAUSE OF—CURE — ERADICATION—
CHILLED BROOD——DYSENTERY—ENEMIES—WAX MOTH—PRE-
SERVING COMBS—-BRAULA CMHCA——-WASPS—TOADS—SNAILS AND
MICE—THE TOMTIT—FOWLS.

Brzs are subject to a disease at once terribly contagious and fatal,
called foul brood. It effects the larve, the adults suffering only on
account of the tainting of the atmosphere of the hive, by the putrescent
exhalations from the dead bodies of the grubs. Many amongst the
brood, if the outbreak be malignant, may be seen of an unhealthy
yellowish tone, instead of pearly white. Some of these die before seal-
ing, and since their remains appear too nauseous for the bees to remove,
they rot and dry at the lower side of the cell, until a shrivelled brownish
scale alone remains. The caps covering the cells of those dead since seal-
ing, are sunken rather than raised, and pierced by one or two holes of
various sizes. The sealing appears to be thinner than that over healthy
grubs. If the cover be taken off, a semi-fluid viscid mass is found, which
may be drawn into strings like half dry glue, while it emits the
same sickening odour which fills with minor intensity the whole
hive.* By the signs here given, this fell pest may be known; but the
inexperienced must not mistake a cell, the sealing of which is unfinished,
or a honey cell opened that its contents may be consumed, for a punc-
tured foul-broody one.

An account of some interesting experiments by Dr. Schénfeld, con-
clusively showing the cause of the disease, and translated by an enthusi-
astic apiculturist, Mr. J. 8. Wood, for the British Bee Jowrnal requires
some notice, as the facts arrived at, point to the means to be adopted for
arresting the disease. It had before been known that foul-brood was in
some way connected with the presence of micrococcus (an extremely

 

* This substance diluted with water, and placed under a thin cover, will show
with a good microscope, an eighth objective, innumerable micrococcus germs,
DISEASES AND ENEMIES, 89

minute fungns), but whether as a cause or result was not determined.
If a cause, how were the spores transmitted from hive to hive? Dr.
Schonfeld thus describes his experiment intended to set this matter at
rest : “On a smooth-planed board I placed a bell glass, in the top of
which was a round hole, in this I fixed a glass tube two feet long, there
was also fixed a, similar glass tube in the board. In the top of the upper-
most tube, was forced a plug of cotton wool, as also in the under end of
the bottom tube ; and the wool was not pressed tight, but so that the air
could circulate freely through both tubes. The foul brood substance
that I had received from Herr Locher, was now placed under the bell
glass on the 21st of June, and left to dry slowly. If then, tho assertion
that the spores escaped in the air when the substance was dry was
correct, it was only necessary for me now and then to place the apparatus
by the window in my study, and expose it to the full influence of the
sunbeams, as, if the air in the bell glass, by the power of the sun-
beams was warmed up to 40°, it must, by a well known physical law,
escape through the uppermost tube, while the cooler air from the floor of
the study must enter the bell glass through the bottom tube, and at the
same time it was quite as certain that therewithal the spores of the
fungus that were carried by the upward current of air, would be caught
in the wool above.”

Our limits will not allow us to follow the doctor in extenso. Suffice
it to say that the microscope revealed abundance of Fungus micrococcus
in the top cotton plug, proving that the spores escape into the
atmosphere from dry, foul-broody matter; and since bees ventilate
their hives strongly, it became apparent that multitudes of spores must
leave in the out-blast of an infected hive. It now remained but to
show that the collected micrococcus spores were capable of diseasing and
killing healthy larve. In healthy stocks larve, to which any portion of
this cotton saturated with spores was applied, became foul-broody, and
were found to contain the Fungus micrccoccit in immense numbers. To
make the case more conclusive, blowfly larve, whose changes. are
analogous to those of the bee (see page 5), were touched with the cotton,
and all died diseased similarly to foul-broody grubs, micrococci in
multitudes being found within them. We thus gather that it is the dried
matter which carries danger, and not the wet putrescent bodies. If a
remedy is to be found it must be capable of preventing the fungus growth.
Salycylic acid seems such a substance, having the power of preventing
mildew, which is itself a minute fungus. Salycylic acid igs neither
poisonous nor corrosive, and may in solution (twenty-five grains to eight
ounces water), be distributed over combs, and even bees also, without
any damaging effect. Any portion of comb in which the disease has
shown itself should be cut out and the combs throughout disinfected
with a spray producer, taking care that every cell receives some of the
90 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

fine shower. The bottom of the hive should be well cleaned, and the
salycylic acid solution applied. By great watchfulness and cleanliness
the malady may be eradicated, but it is usually wise, always so in severe
cages, to remove the queen, either with a swarm or not, according to the
strength of the hive (the queen does not carry the infection), so as to
give the disease less hold by reducing the brood. About nine or ten
days after inserting a ripe queen cell, so that by the time the queen
resulting commences to lay, all the living brood will have hatched out.
A forced swarm should now be made of the whole of them, their combs
destroyed, and the hive disinfected. Let the bees work in a box or skep
twenty-four hours, then turn them into a perfectly clean hive without
combs, and begin to feed, boiling with the food salycylic acid. No combs
are to be given, in order that the foul-broody honey the bees have taken
with them, may not be stored, as some of it would otherwise be, but
all consumed in evolving wax.

In early spring, bees are occasionally forced so near to each other for
mutual warmth when the thermometer takes one of its dips, that the
outside brood is neglected, gets chilled, and dies in consequence. Such
brood assumes an appearance resembling rather closely foul-brood, but
differs from it in not being contageous—it is cailed chilled-brood.

Dysentery, during an attack of which the bees, usually so cleanly,
discharge themselves upon their combs, and die with distended abdomens,
sometimes even bursting, may be brought on by wintering bees upon
watery food given too late in the year to admit of its proper evaporation
and sealing, or by making their homes damp by lack of protection or
ventilation, or by long confinement with excitement. The remedy con-
sists in removing the cause. Remove the bees if possible, to a clean
hive—at least, cleanse and dry the floor board, and exchange any combs
containing unsealed honey for others. Give barley sugar as food.
Ventilate the hive well; protect as thoroughly as possible from cold, and
subject the patients to no avoidable disturbance.

The British wax moth Achroia grisclla, is but little to be feared.
The moth Galleria mellonella, common in Italy, and sometimes found in
the combs accompanying imported queens, is both much larger, and more
destructive; its bad reputation seems to have been by mistake attached
to our own species, which is consequently dreaded much more than its
small power for mischief justifies. Late in the summer evening, this
moth may occasionally be seen flitting at the hive door to gain access to
the combs on which to lay her eggs; but if the population be at all
numerous, the guards give her but small chance of effecting an entrance;
should she succeed, the eggs deposited on the combs will be at once
ejected, unless the bees are so sparse as to leave them unvisited. Eggs
may possibly hatch if deposited in unreachable corners, or in the debris,
collecting from wax plates dropped during comb building, and sealing,
DISEASES AND ENEMIES. 91

always falling, where much brood is coming out; but here the little grubs
only gain an existence by gathering up the fragments, that nothing be
lost, according to a deeply impressed law of nature; and only where a
colony is miserably weak, or has lost heart through hopeless queenless-
ness, can they work mischief amongst the combs. Gaining these, they
construct as they worm their way through the midrib, a silky tunnel, on
the walls of which will be found their dejectamenta, resembling grains of
gunpowder, and by degrees the comb is utterly ruined. Although, there-
fore, stocks in England are not likely to suffer from wax moths, combs
in store may be destroyed from their ravages. The tiny egg is but the
100th of an inch in diameter, and,so likely to escape detection. Should
the characteristic flannelly line, holding in its texture minute whitish
particles, show itself near the bases of the cells, expose the whole to
the fumes of burning sulphur. The sulphurous acid produced, quickly
gives the quietus to the little tormentors. No further attention will be
necessary if we place the combs out of the reach of the moth.

The Braula ceca, » small reddish brown louse, about the size of the
head of a pin, is w most singularly formed creature, and no bee keeper
possessing a microscope should fail, upon discovering one, to make an
examination of it. Its foot is unique. The insects are found on the
Continent in immense numbers in some stocks, almost every bee carrying
many of them. On imported queens they are not uncommon, and may be
propagated here, as in 1874 we had many hundreds in one colony, but
by the spring they had disappeared.

Wasps often annoy the bees considerably; but it is only with weak
stocks (and weak stocks ought only as an exception to be found in a
beemaster’s apiary) that they can do mischief. Here they often succeed
in entering in such numbers as to much impoverish the hive. ‘Destroy
all queen wasps in the spring, as each of these, known by their larger
abdomen, start an independent colony ; and treat all nests to turpentine
or cyanide of potassium.

Toads we have known to fatten amazingly, while the lightning tongue
has caused hundreds of over fatigued labourers to disappear, as they have
fallen exhausted, at the very door of home, into a tangle of weeds, which
afford too good a covert for the enemy. If spent tan be spread around
the hives, weeds will be banished and the unwelcome bee fancier also.

Snails and mice must be kept out, by making the entrance during cold
weather too narrow to admit them. In the warmer part of the year the
bees themselves make this precaution unnecessary. If mice enter they
bite: away the attachments of the comb to get at the honey. The combs
tall, and often ruin the whole hive.

The blue tit (Parus cerulus) and the great tit (Parus major), during
prolonged cold, are often reduced to extremities, and then they are too
ready to make a meal of such members of our stock as they may chance
92 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

to pick ap by waiting at the hive door. Our friend Mr. Huuter related to
us that he had found on a fence rail hundreds of the stings of bees, which
had apparently been extracted by these birds before regaling on their
bodies. A wire screen like a fire guard, will secure our bees from their
bills. «

Fowls wandering in an apiary tend to weaken the hives during the sum.
mer, as they will coolly pick up from the alighting-board the workers az
they issue if the former be at a height they can reach. In any case many
bees resting on the ground fall a sacrifice to their restless bills ; but since,
18 a rule, it is only the over-wearied labourers missing their mark as they
are about to enter the flight-hole that are found on the ground at all, and
then always quite close to their hive, keeping the fowls a yard or two
from the entrance will reduce their power of working mischief to limits
not worth consideration.

x —»
a ot
WINTERING. 93

CHAPTER XII.

Prag Pee

WINTERING.

AMOUNT OF STORE REQUIRED—BARLEY SUGAR FEEDING—HAY-
RICK COVER—-VENTILATION—-HONEY A SOURCE OF HEAT—
WHY WEAK sTOOKS WINTER BADLY—AIR OF HIVE PURE—
CHINA MATTING, FRAIL, QUILT——INSTINCT STEREOTYPED—
WINTER PASSAGES——-CLEARING ENTRANCE—SNOW—RE-ABRANG-
ING AN APIARY—STARVED BEES—-CONCLUSION.

No care during the season of activity can compensate for neglect of the
bees’ comfort and necessities during the season of repose. A winter
well passed has more to do with subsequent success than the inexpe-
rienced could well imagine. Setting on one side the misfortune of disease,
or the accident of queenlessness, the fatalities which occur during winter
may be put down in nearly every instance to one of four causes: paucity
of bees, insufficiency of food, want of proper protection, or errors in
ventilation. The first of these matters has already received attention
under the heads of ‘ Autumn Feeding,” and “ Uniting.” The amount of
food required by a stock during the inclement season whilst not raising
brood is less than 21lb. per month; but no prudent beekeeper would keep
his hives at the brink of possible starvation. A fluctuating, and, on the
whole, mild winter, by keeping the bees in unrest, will increase the con.
sumption, while stocks amply provisioned begin raising small quantities
of brood soon after the days commence to lengthen. No skeps ought to
be left under the weight of 20lb gross, and, unless very small, we advise
from 25lb. to 30lb. to be made the minimum, especially if the combs are
old and contain much pollen. The food to raise to this weight, if it is
not intended to stimulate to breeding (see page 59) must be given quickly
and contain 5lb of sugar to the quart of water. With frame hives two
superficial feet of sealed store (about three Woodbury combs) are required.
With these, hives suffering an embai¥as de richesse may exchange full for
empty combs, from poverty-struck neighbours. For too much honey is
not really an advantage, since during cold spells the bees thrust themselves
into the empty cells, head to head, from each side of the comb, while
94. PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

others pack themselve. closely between them. This matter of food should
be completed before the advent of cold weather, for then to have to
disturb the stock is most wasteful and damaging, as we shall see pre-
sently. If, however, it be necessary to give food during the winter, let
it be barley sugar (made as explained at page 47), except that as much
sugar is dissolved as possible, the syrup being skimmed during the boiling,
which must be continued until if a drop of the syrup be let fall on a
piece of glass, it will chip off upon being touched. The stirring must be
continuous, as if any of the sugar be burned, the caramel (or cook’s
colouring, burned sugar) formed, will prevent the bees touching it, while
it will cause it to deliquesce and drop down amongst them, gluing them
hopelessly together. This barley sugar may be put in pieces into a
bottle over the feed hole, or laid across the frames under the quilt here-
after explained, or thrust up between the combs in skeps.

Protection, as applied to skeps, has already received some attention
(pages 10 to 12); and frame hives generally leave the hands of the

 

TT
B c
Fia. 59, Hay-rick Cover (WINTER Foru),

maker thoughtfully provided with every external arrangement necessary
to enable them to winter independently ; but those who desire to leave on
their stands ordinary single sided hives, such as Fig. 11 represents, may,
with a little ingenuity, construct those exceedingly useful casings known
as hay rick covers, which, while they do not require that finished car-
pentry which is beyond the capability of the amateur, can be slipped
into position without disturbing the stock. A reference to Fig. 59 will
show its character. The dotted lines indicate the hive, of which A is the
alighting board, and B C the bottom board. The case consists of four
sides, which should not be less than two inches wider than the height of
the hive; these are arranged like the sides of a wheelbarrow, and are
each about 5in. wider at the top than at the bottom. A roof, D, H, F,
consisting of four triangular pieces, completes the whole. This is merely
lifted on and off, and however rough the workmanship, it may be made
WINTERING. ' 95
perfectly rain tight by adopting the plan recommended for the cheese
boxes (page 10). The case being put on, shaving, rag, hay, or straw is
stuffed in between it and the hive, giving u protective covering not to
be beaten; over this the roof is placed. For the summer the case is
inverted, four little blocks fitted on the inside, enabling it by two
wooden bars, to stand as in Fig. 60. Under the roof comes the super
while the hive is admirably screened from the sun, and the alighting board
from the rain, and near swarming time when the bees are clustering
outside, they receive that shelter which many more costly covers could
not afford.

As we proceed the necessity for preventing, as far as practicable,
the escape of heat through the hive walls will become more apparent.
We have still to consider the question of ventilation, 7.e., the manage-
ment of the mouth and the top of the hive. All advanced apiculturists. -

 

Fie. 60, Hay-rick Cover (Summer Form),

are now of opinion that ventilation is required during winter, and for
this two reasons exist: Ist. Bees are continually charging the air about
them with noxious gases, which need removal. 2nd. That ventilation
ig the only natural means of keeping the hive in a dry condition.

The bees, whilst hybernating, maintain 4 temperature in the centre
of their cluster not lower than 65°, even in the most severe weather.
Honey is the material from a change in which, in the body of the bee,
heat is produced, as hinted at page 61. Saccharine substances consist
of two gases, oxygen and hydrogen, united in the proportions in which
they exist in water in combination with carbon, a substance almost:
identical with charcoal; and although it would not be scientifically
exact to say that honey consists of carbon and water, it is sufficiently so.
for a popular explanation. The bees cluster together, and in propor-
tion as it may be needful for them to evolve heat they elongate and.
96 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

contract their abdomens (a movement which may be generally seen when
eny bee is at rest), which movement draws in and expels air by certain
holes in their sides, called spiracles, and by which they breathe. The
more rapidly this breathing is carried on the more (oxygen) air is brought
into contact with the honey they have eaten, the more of it is consumed,
and the greater the heat evolved; but as the heat is in proportion to the
honey consumed so is it in proportion to the noxious gas (carbonic acid)
produced and the water thrown into the hive, as a reference to the rough
table, in which the essential oils of the honey, which are verv small in
amount, are disregarded for simplicity sake :

9oz. water = 902. water.

60z. carbon = 602. carbon.

80z. oxygen _

loz. hydrogen } a ee We

160z. of oxygen from the air being united with the 60z. carbon, we obtain
220z. carbonic acid gas, which with the liberated 180z. water are thrown
into the air of the hive by the consumption of 2402. of honey.

Omitting to notice the water for the present, let us trace the 22o0z. of
carbonic acid gas, occupying about twelve cubic feet at ordinary tempera-
tures. In a Woodbury hive, for example, which holds about 1900 cubic
inches, the combs, stores, frames, and bees, would fill 1400 cubic inches,
so that the air space would not be greater that a quarter of a cubic foot;
the carbonic acid, therefore, produced from the consumption of 12]b. of
honey would fill the available space in the hive forty-eight times. MNoz
is this all: the air is only one-fifth by measure oxygen, the other four-
fifths being nitrogen, and the carbonic acid occupies the same space
precisely as the oxygen which united with the carbon to produce it, so
that we find if the whole of the oxygen of the air introduced had been
‘converted into carbonic acid by union with carbon, the air in the hive
must have been entirely renewed 240 times; and, further, the presence of
carbonic acid in large amount is so deleterious, even to insects, that
probably not more than ten per cent. at the most of the oxygen could
be utilised in the production of carbonic acid, shutting us up to the con-
clusion that the consumption of 13]b. of honey needs the passage through
the hive of not less than 600 cubic feet of air, or, in other words, needs
the complete renovation of the air of the hive 2400 times. We have
previously stated the average loss in weight of a wintering colony in
which breeding is suspended is less than 2]b. per month, or about loz.
per day, and this is irrespective of the number of bees, as we shall
presently show. loz. of honey, or one-twenty-fourth of 14]b., requires for
its conversion into carbonic acid one-twenty-fourth of 600 cubic feet, or
25ft. of air, or, which is the same thing, that the air of the hive should
be changed 100 times per twenty-four hours, or about every fifteen
minutes. The escaping vitiated and damp air from the hive carries away

1}]b. honey
WINTERING. v7

in ita altered form nearly the whole of the consumed honey, so we see why,
during continued cold weather, stores are reduced, it may be, many
pounds while the bees have had no opportunity of discharging themselves.
Indeed, it appears that fecal matter is scarcely produced by consumed
honey but by the wear and tear of tissue (i.e., of the bee’s body) conse-
quent upon activity, and this wear and tear is chiefly made good by the
assimilation of pollen. Hence, no doubt, the disturbance of bees during
winter, stimulating them to fitful exertion, tends to cause them to consume
pollen, and so distend their bowels, and may become a cause of incipient
dysentery, as pointed out in the last chapter.

Loss of heat, as the forogoing argument shows, is loss of honey. This
necessitates making the hive walls as non-conductive as possible, not
only thus saving stores, but the vital energies of the workers, which must
otherwise be consumed in keeping up the temperature. We read in the
“Handy Book of Bees:” “A continental writer, a Swiss clergyman, has
broadly stated that two swarms united eat no more honey than each does
separately. This wild notion has now a pretty wide currency, having
been quoted by one writer after another. Some experiments have been
made by honest men to test the truth of this statement. The results, as
recorded, go in favour of the clergyman’s opinion.”’ Space forbids our
following the rather lengthy remarks of the author; who, after
informing us that he discredits the experiments, sums up by saying
that “50,000 bees require about as much honey in one hive as in two.”
To which we must reply, the whole scope of the matter before us tends to
show that the experiments only produced the results to be expected. To
state that 50,000 bees divided into two stocks would consume no more
than they would as one, is parallel with saying that six persons in one
room would require as much fuel as two companies of three each in two
rooms, each similar to the first; for honey, so far as the adult bee is
concerned, is the fuel of the hive, the temperature of which must be
maintained at a certain amount. Small stocks on this account winter
badly, because the severe exertion in keeping up the heat required of
each bee increases the death rate. How good, then, is the economy of
uniting weak lots in antumn, while, however paradoxical it may appear,
it is nevertheless true that condemned bees added as previously explained
(see page 74}, cost nothing for their keep, while the bees in the spring
not only come out stronger in numbers, but with more freshness and
energy individually than they could otherwise have possessed.

The honey not used in building comb or feeding brood, just as truly
barns in:the body of the bee as does coal in the furnace. The tempera.
ture at which combustion is carried on in the latter instance is, really,
much higher, but the products and the chemical changes are identical,
while the evolution of heat is precisely the same in cause in each instance,
A very simple experiment with a lighted candle or lamp will corroborate

45
98 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

this. The material burning is, like honey, composed of carbon, oxygen,
and hydrogen; and, as in our table, oxygen united with carbon gives
carbonic acid, while oxygen and hydrogen unitiag produce water, which
may be taken from the flame by passing through it a cold knife upon
which the generated water will collect in dew.

Seeing, then, the relation of honey and pollen as heat and flesh formers
respectively (see page 61), it is interesting to observe that the larve or
young and growing grubs as chyle feeders (see page 5) are not producers of
heat, and need the brooding of the nurses in order to have their temperature
so maintained that the nutritive functions may be continued. A dense
comb of grubs is as quickly chilled as 4 comb of store; and should they
be from any cause exposed to a very low temperature, death soon works
amongst them, producing “ chilled brood” (see page 90). Whilst the popu-
lation is strong and the external temperature not too low, bees ventilate
their hives so thoroughly by placing fanners in different parts, and
especially near the hive mouth, to keep up a constant current by uninter-
ruptedly flapping their wings, while they hold on with their feet, that
the air of the interior is scarcely less pure than that without. Very
strong colonies, if visited at an early hour on chilly spring mornings,
will be found pouring out a stream of condensed vapour (popularly steam),
while the water from it will continue to drip from the alighting board,
and if a lighted candle be placed in the outcast of air it will be at once
extinguished. But in biting weather the little labourers, whose earnest
efforts to procure an untainted atmosphere may often well shame us, are
driven from the door to the cluster, where, closely huddled together, they
resist a temperature in which a single bee could no more continue its
vitality than could a single coal continue to burn in the firegrate ; and, asa
consequence, summer ventilation other than that through the hive mouth
is not only unnecessary, but would sometimes be prejudicial; but in winter,
as the facts just stated show, the case is widely different. Then the cluster,
which, as we have already stated, maintains a high temperature within
itself, throws up the heated air respired from many thousand spiracles,*
and this, striking against the hive roof, if there not allowed to
escape, remains until cold to descend upon the inmates. It can only .
escape at all by the law of gaseous diffusion, which causes all aériform
bodies to commingle. It at best passes from the door very slowly, and
not until the air within is all more or less carbonised. Bees stifled by
contracted hive mouths, and all apertures carefully closed above, are in
the condition of coke in an Arnott stove with the draught hole closed.
The process of heat production cannot go on, and the bees, stupified by

 

* It is worthy of remark that when the bees thrust themselves into the cells
head first the spiracles or breathing holes in the abdomen remain exposed to the
air, which passes up slowly through the cluster. Whilst so placed, therefore, their
breathing is not interfered with,
WINTERING. 99

impure air and the inevitably falling temperature—for the folly of
stepping ventilation to keep bees warm really makes them the victims
of cold—drop from their cluster to die, and subsequently to introduce
disease by their decomposition.

We have now to consider the second of the two propositions with
which we started, viz., that ventilation is the orly natural means of
keeping the hive in a dry condition. We have already seen that the
consumption of 240z. honey produced no less than 180z. water, which
is given out by the bees in the form of vapour in the air, escaping
from the breathing tubes. We, like bees, are continually throwing
off by the respiratory process a large amount of watery vapour. In
the summer this is held in solution, and is therefore invisible, but on a
frosty morning we are reminded of the presence of water by the steamy
cloud escaping from our mouths. All this is due to the fact that air is
capable of holding more and more water in solution as its temperature
rises; and, conversely, warm air, upon being cooled, deposits in the form
of dew the water it cannot longer retain. The air leaving the bee
cluster, although, as we have just stated, carrying with it a large amount
of moisture, is still dry, because its comparatively high temperature would
enable it to dissolve still more humidity than that with which itis charged.
The whole of this it would carry away in an imperceptible form, and no
deposit of moisture would take place if it were allowed properly to
escape; but if retained, the hive sides, cooled down by the external air
quickly lowers its temperature, and dew, which not unfrequently accumu-
lates into little pools, is formed, and for the same reason that the windows
of a warm room on a cold day are often perfectly wet within, because the
warm air touching the glass has its temperature reduced, and the water it
carries is deposited from it. If no ventilation be allowed, the whole of the
air in the hive, except that on the cluster, being in a state of super-satura-
tion, the combs free of bees quickly become coated with mildew. The hive
walls, being constantly damp, not only conduct heat with more facility
than if dry, but the water upon them acts as a sort of middleman in the
transfer of heat to the exterior. Although air when dry is a very bad
conductor, when moist it is very freely cooled by a wet surface, so that
bedewing the kive increases immensely the difficulty of maintaining the
required heat.

This ample explanation of the reasons rendering ventilation necessary
has been given in order that the reader ‘may so thoroughly see the utility
of the plans now suggested as to adopt them. As a ventilating top
cover we still find the substance we were the first to recommend the best
of any we have yet tried. Matting, the kind known in the trade as
China-matting jackets, #.e., the cases in which China matting is protected
during transit—or should the jackets not be procurable, the bast (more
correctly frail) fish baskets made from these. if unsewn and well ironed,

aS
100 PRACTICAL BEE-KELEPING.

will furnish covers, at about the cost of 2d., which leave nothing to be
desired. It would be difficult to find any material so economical and so
well suited to our purpose as this; but almost every upholsterer could
supply some thin and comparatively smooth textile fabric made of grass
or rushes which would be equally effective in point of non-conductivity
and porosity, although, of course, at much greater cost.

If the matting be creased, it should be ironed and then cut, so as to lie
upon the frames under the crown board. The latter being removed from
the hive, the frames should be cleaned of all fragments of wax or
propolis, which would impede the cover’s falling into position. One of
these should be laid in place, and a moment allowed for any straggliny
bee to crawl from under it, put a second upon the first, and then replace
the crown board,* not fitting it too tightly. Indeed it is well to add wa
third mat to cover, not only the frames, but the top edge of the hive to
prevent the ventilation being too much reduced. Then lay a folded sack
over all, or, in lieu of the crown board, a bottomless box the size of the
hive top, and four or five inches deep, covered with canvas beneath and
filled with chaff, may be placed at once upon the matting. Frail
is much more durable and cleanly than carpet, which is often recom-
mended. The bees, of course, cannot bite it, and they scarcely propolise
it at all. Some in our apiary, which have stood over strong stocks con-
tinuously for more than two years, is nearly as clean, and quite as perfect
as when first put on. Carpet, too, when damp, ventilates most imper-
fectly, and is then very liable to mildew, besides which the bees so coat
it with wax or propolis if left on during the summer that it becomes
absolutely useless as a ventilating cover for the cold season.

By the foregoing plan of wintering, we get rid of the space over the
frames, which is in winter a great damage; but not of necessity always
so, as some advocates of the quilt would have us believe. During the
season of work in the apiary, we prefer the crown board, because with
it we can examine a stock more quickly, ead with less loss of bee life
than with a quilt. The latter, indeed, if of carpet, gets so sticky, that
it is most unpleasant to handle, while it is almost impossible to replacc
it after its removal without trapping numbers of bees between it and
the frames, while immense labour is involved in refixing what we have
disturbed. The stock argument that the space above the frames must
be wrong because the bees constantly “protest”’ against it by filling it up
with comb, is singularly illogical in those who advocate upward venti.
lation, since against this the bees protest still more earnestly. Nor is
it at all certain that they fill this because they object to a space over the

 

* We are speaking here of our crown board (see page 20). A wooden top in one
piece we have abandoned. If this be the kind used, the bottomless box must
replace it, or it must be wedged up about the + of «nm inch at the two back
corners,
WINTERING. 101

frames. They leave it open till their hive is crammed with comb; and
then utilize it to gain space for storage, as we now believe. If the object
were to prevent the circulation of air, a propolis wall would be built, such
as most beekeepers must have observed at hive mouths. The fact is, bees
in hives are in somewhat urtificial conditions, while they are governed by
instinct, the nature of which is to be stereotyped, and so to fail often
where it is required to accommodate itself to that which is unusual. It
is alone the prerogative of reason to vary and adapt. The protests of
the bees if always listened to, would abolish movable combs, since they
ever strive to fix their frames, and would lead us to believe that orphan
colonies having no means of raising queens, ought to be assisted by eggs,
rather than by a fertile mother, since they accept the former but refuse
the latter. The instructed beekeeper knows, however, that his reason is
right while the instinct of the bee is wrong, but only wrong because the
circumstances are not natural. The quilt, if found convenient, may
be used the year through, since it is in summer, so far as the bees are
concerned, neither better nor worse than the crown board. In this
matter each beekeeper must consult his own taste.

The heated air rising from each seam of bees in the skep, is not
allowed to flow away at once to the unoccupied parts of the hive, as it
does in those with frames, because in the former the comb not only is
attached to the top, but the sides also as far down as the store reaches.
It is in this that the superiority of the skep for wintering bees consists,
not in the straw, as we have been so often told. In order to gain this
advantage, let slips of wood in. wide, and about five inches long,
have tacks driven through them at jin. from the end; these dropped
down between the frames will be held in position by the head of
the tack coming over the zinc runner (1, or 2, Fig. 17). As the
matting above, and the slips at the frame ends, will not allow the
bees to pass from comb to comh without leaving the cluster, winter
passages must be made by cutting a hole fin. in diameter, two
or three inches from the top of each comb, fitting afterwards into
it a shaving, rolled like the side of a pill box, which will prevent
the bees refilling it. The slips, too, will somewhat increase the dis-
tance between the combs, which facts that have been recently observed
seem to show to be an advantage. If a colony in a bar frame hive
has to be sent a journey, these wooden slips -between the frames
will prevent them shifting, and perforated zinc above will supply all
needed ventilation. The mouth of the hive during winter should be
somewhat contracted; but we do not advocate its being made so small
that only one bee can pass at a time. Our first swarm in 1876 came
from a hive which had remained open from the previous autumn along its
whole front, the front wedge beneath the bottom board having been left
out. It had a hybrid mother, and was rich both in bees and stores.
102 PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPING.

A hooked wire should now and thon be passed into the mouth of
each hive, in order to remove any dead bees likely to choke it, or stocks
may be lost from stifling. When the weather is so mild as to allow of a
winter’s dance, a walk should be taken through the apiary, and all stocks
around whose door bees are not flying should be probed to ascertain
whether the exit is free.

Snow should be removed from alighting boards, for although it is not
to be feared while light and fleecy, it is likely to get partly thawed
and refrozen, when it would work mischief. The glare of the sun upon
it, too, will frequently draw bees forth by the thousand, the majority of
which will get too far chilled to regain home; by no means confine bees at
this time with perforated zinc, or many will die in their efforts to get out,
and perhaps choke the opening totally. Stop the glare, however, by
placing a board, or fixing a wooden slip in front of the porch, which will
also tend to save the inhabitants from driving winds. We believe bees
are the better for shading the whole winter through, another reason for
which is given in the “ Calendar.”

The fashion of cellaring bees, so common in America, is not quite
suitable to our variable climate, because whenever the thermometer rises
to near 50°, the prisoners became excited, and endeavour to leave their
hives. The cellars are kept as nearly as possible at 40°, at which
external temperature the cluster remains quietly nestling.

In summer our pets having marked their location, will return to it,
and not to their hive, if the latter be moved u few yards; and we are
often obliged to allow notions of order and symmetry to continue to be
violated. About February we should watch the cold spells, since they
provide us with the best opportunities for rearrangement, but at these
times do not permit our orderly minds to puzzle the bees by giving long
and straight lines of similar hives, from which the selection of their own
particular domicile must be most perplexing. If we do so, the troubles
of queenlessness and robbing are sure to attend us.

If by any mischance a stock should be found apparently starved, try at
once a very warm room and food, when often the supposed dead will
recover.

eased bev

Our task draws toanend. May we, before the ink dries in the pen,
express the hope that our “ Practical Beekeeping ’’ will in some measure
increase the home charms of the cottager, and help him to augment his
income by wiser methods than those commonly obtaining; and that his
more well-to-do brother beekeeper may find through it increased enjoy-
ment and success in the prosecution of a hobby which has furnished to us
so much delightful recreation, both for body and mine.
WINTERING. 103

Before concluding we would add that, although time with us is too
much occupied to make the task of satisfying the merely curious »
pleasant one, we shall be always glad, at Avenue House, Acton, to show,
by previous appointment, anything to those interested that may be con-
sidered worth a visit; and if we can further assist them with stocks or
apparatus, we shall be pleased to do so whenever able.
AL PP EI Dt.

Pee hee

CALENDAR.

Tre arrangement of a calendar is necessarily somewhat empirical. The
work of one season glides imperceptibly into that of another, while in a
climate such as ours due allowance must be made for seasonal fluctuations.
It is, therefore, recommended that when a reference is made, the months
before and after the current one should receive some attention.

JANUARY.

This is txe season of rest in the apiary. Do not needlessly disturb any
stock.

Food.—If you suspect any hive to be deficient in store, give barley sugar,
placing it in a bottle over the feed-hole (after turning the feeding-stage out
of the way), and covering warmly, or under the quilt if one be used, or
in skeps, passing it up between the combs: (see page 94.)

Protection.—If an insufficient top covering has been provided, add to it
now: (see page 100.)

Snow having fallen, take care that the hives are saved from glare, or
many bees will fly, deceived by the brightness, and fall to the ground and
perish. Be careful also that snow does not so choke the hive mouth as to
smother the stock: (see page 102.)

Entrances should be examined on the first warm day, to sce that dead
bees are not clogging the entrance; and, if needed, clean the bottom
board: (see page 101.) Many dead bees would either indicate an error
in management or disease.

Ventilation.—Stocks in frame hives need upward ventilation: (see
page 92.) If the crown boards of these have not been removed since
autumn, the first time the weather is warm enough to enable the bees to
fly they must be lifted, and arrangements made as already explained:
(sce page 100.) Carpets which have remained on give no ventilation at
all, as every pore will have been stopped by propolis.

Insectivorous birds.—The blue tit (Parus ceruleus) and the great tit
(Parus major), driven to extremities by frost, are likely to play haves
amongst our favourites. Adopt the precaution given at page 92.

Mice must be kept at bay by making the openings so narrow that they
cannot enter, or the combs may be bitten from their foundations: (see
page 91.)
APPENDIX. 105

Hives.—Clean, repair, and, if possible, improve all empty hives. These,
if sound when thoroughly overhauled and repainted, are better than new,
since their joints are not likely to open in the sun. Stippling and var-
nishing is much better than plain painting. Or clouding may be adopted
for variety. This is an American plan, and is thus managed: Paint the
hive white, and while the paint is fresh and under cover out of the wind,
fix the hive so that the face to be clouded is beneath, then smoke it with
a lamp with small wick. A little practice will enable us to produce a very
ornamental mottled appearance, not unlike marble; when dry give a coat
of varnish. ‘

Bottle covers.—Commission some soft hand to make as many bottle
covers as maybe needed : (see page 49.)

Jackets for supers may be made at the same time : (see page 69.)

Midribs.—Prepare some casts for midribs: (see page 53.) Instead of
taking the first cast in plaster, subsequently baking and soaking in paraf-
fin, as described at page 55, it may be made in gutta-percha if preferred.

Waa.—Prepare some cakes of artificial wax; these will be needed in the
spring : (see page 56.) :

Make all possible preparation during this season for the busier time,
which will bring more than sufficient employment.

FEBRUARY.

Food.—The hints for last month need still greater attention for this.
If the weather be so warm as to induce the bees to fly often, much more
food will be consumed than if they remain in cluster. Where honey is
known to be running short, barley sugar or strong syrup may be given
(see page 58) ; or a frame containing store may be exchanged foran empty
one. Remember also that it is much better to anticipate want than bring
w stock to the verge of famine. Poor hives will delay in raising brood, and
swarm late. ’

Moving.—Hives can be best shifted short distances for the purposes of
cearrangement at this season: (see page 102.) Let it be done during a
cold spell. Moving in the summer a yard per day is, however, preferable :
(see page 62.)

Artificial Pollen.—If the weather remain open artificial pollen may be
given towards the close of the month. Its advantage lies in its being
supplied early : (see page 61.)

The advice already given respecting ‘snow,’ “dead bees,” and
** insectivorous birds,” will require attention.

MARCH.

Bees, stimulated by their more frequent opportunities of leaving their
hives and by the welcome, though small, supplies given by opening snow-
drops and crocuses, followed by almond and peach trees, elms, willows, &e.
begin now to carry forward the work of raising brood in earnest. Gentle
106 APPENDIX.

and continuous feeding must now be resorted jto, to bring the supply
without up to the demand within: (see page 59.)

Artificial Pollen should be continued : (see page 61.)

Entrances.—Regulate the entrances according to the strength of the
tolony.

Bottom Board.—Clean the bottom of all collected débris, the bees will
henceforward, if in health, act as their own scavengers.

Snow.—Should snow fall, the shading of the hives 1s more than ever
important. If this be neglected the bees will fly during sunshine to die
in large numbers. The winter through, hives, during the middle part of
the day, should be shaded, especially about the entrances; if this be done
the bees will seldom leave when the air is cold enough to chill them. It
is not safe for them to fly if the thermometer stand much below 50° in
the shade: (see page 102.*

Purchasing ‘Stocks —This is the time for purchasing stocks: (see page
73.) Although, as the risk of winter is nearly past, they command higher
prices than in the autumn

Borage may now be sown along the hedge rows (see page 58), ana a
patch of waste ground may be devoted to the sunflower if it is intended
to work up condemned bees into stocks. The abundance of pollen thus
obtained late in the year is then very helpful.

Wasps.—Queen wasps during March and April may often be seen
hovering about the hives. Asa queen is capable of establishing a nest
with its army of tormentors, let them be diligently hunted and destroyed.
Bring them down by a discharge from a garden syringe and crush them.

Hives and Apparatus should be got ready at once. It is better that
the hive wait for the swarm than the swarm for the hive.

APRIL.

The beekeeper’s season is now open. His favourites are increasing in
numbers and activity. The orchard trees at the close of last month and
early part of this are in full spring attire, and in favourable weather our
stocks are gaining weight, yet, at this time, perhaps, more stocks die of
starvation than any other. The winter has disposed of the honey of the
previous year, and brood raising now requires « good income to make
both ends meet, therefore

Feeding is essential when the weather is unfavourable: (see page 61.)
If this be forgotten the beekeeper will probably meet with

Signs of Starvation in the form of the bodies of immature bees on the
alighting board. Food failing, ovipositing has been stopped, the eggs
and younger larve eaten, and the chrysalides (especially of drones) torn
from the cells and thrown out of the hive. Feeding immediately will save
the stock, but not until it has been thrown back weeks.

Queenlessness may be suspected, if, while colonies generally are carrying
APPENDIX. 107

thick, high-standing pellets of pollen, the one under observation takes
but a small number of half sized ones. If the hives have movable
combs the queen should be looked for; if it be a skep, search for brood,
as explained page 28. Should no queen exist, it is generally best policy
to unite the bees to another weak stock having a queen: (sce page 62.)

Water must not be overlooked : (see page 61.)

Ventilation through the top of the hive may now be discontinued: (see
page 98.)

Old Hives needing repairs should have their bees, combs, and frames
removed to others.

Uniting is the best course with weak and queenless stocks (see above).
Une strong lot is worth a dozen weak ones.

Transferring combs from skeps to frame hives may now be undertaken :
(see page 75.)

Robbing, if commenced, must be met by the plans given at page 56.
King says, ‘Should a weak stock be nearly overcome by robbers, sprinkle
flour upon them; and if they are found to belong toa strong stock, it
may exchange places with the weak one.”’

Exchange of stations is in this case allowable, but a caution had better
here be given with respect to it, as it is freely recommended in more
books than one as a means of equalising stocks. Never venture upon it
without caging the queens of both hives, unless honey is coming in
abundantly, or an encasement (see page 83), if nothing worse, is almost
sure to follow.

Ligurianising.—If it is intended to use the nucleus plan for Ligurianis-
ing, preliminary steps must be taken this month: (see page 81.)

Weeds.—Spread spent tan around the hives to prevent the growth of
weeds: (see page 91.)

Supers of glass should be got ready at once, and provided with enide
combs and jackets: (see pages 64 and 65.)

Guides should be put into hives (see page 53), and into frame supers :
(see page 55.) Our swarms supplied with midribs to within half an inch
of the bottom in each frame, fill their hives in a wonderfully short time
with combs as flat as a table, and without a drone cel!. Some drone
comb in an outside frame is desirable.

MAY.

Good colonies are now ripe for swarming, or approaching that condition,
and the work of the apiary really commences. If at the beginning of the
month a colony with a goodly number of bees be found queenless, give it
the queen (see page 83) from the stock you like best (see principle 6, page
46), so that it may raise queen cells (see page 43) for the colonies to be
swarmed artificially in ten or eleven days: (see page 46.) Care must be
taken that principle 1 (page 46) is not violated.
198 APPENDIX.

Imported queens, or other fertile ones, may be given to driven hives
immediately after the swarm has been taken—twenty-four hours caging
will be sufficient.

Ripe Queen cells should be carefully inserted into all hives soon after
natural swarming or forcing: (see page 42.)

Nuclet may be started as soon as queen cells are at command: (see
page 81.) .

Supers may be put on stccks, all of whose combs are well covered b:
bees if the weather be favourable, swarming being thus possibly pre-
vented; or, if not, something will probably be stored before the swarm
issues. Bees may be enticed into these by pouring syrup into the guide
comb, or on to the midribs. They will object to our untidy storing and in
putting all right often adopt the super and fill it.

Food is still important in prolonged unfavourable weather: (see last
month.)

Swarms, if purchased, should, if possible, be obtained this month,
Premature, or vagabond swarms, as they are termed—i.e., colonies bodily
deserting their hives through disgust caused by want of, or some defect in
the queen—sometimes come off early in May; they should be joined to
some other stock if they do not perform this office for themselves, which
is not uncommon.

Drone combs, if found in the outside frames, may be removed ana run
through the extractor, and a new frame filled with a worker midrib
placed in the centre of the hive: (see page 55.) It will speedily be pro-
vided with eggs.

Phacelia may be sown and mellilot clover sown or planted cut, but the
advantage arising is not great enough to warrant occupymg any but
otherwise idle ground in this way.

JUNE.

Artificial swarming, with a view to profit, may be continued through
the earlier part of this month, but until much later, if increase of stock
be the object, but food may then be required before wintering.

Feed swarms with regularity : (see page 47.) If the food be supplied
too quickly, excessive quantities of drone comb is likely to be built. If
our midribs (see page 53) or Long’s foundation have been given, this will
be impossible.

Regulating combs.—Combs of swarms will require some attention in the
way of regulation (see page 50), if guides only have been supplied.

Swarms well supplied with food and midribs should fill large hives
with brood and store in from a fortnight to three weeks. As soonas the
stock box is really full a super may be placed on; but it is usually wise,
unless honey is very abundant, to wait until brood has been hatching out
three or four days.
APPENDIX. 109

Casting should be prevented by cutting out all queen cells ,but one:
(see page 35.)

Drones should be trapped as soon as all your swarmed hives are pro-
vided with laying queens. Our drone trap, which the makers supply for
As. 6d., will save many times its value in honey if applied to a few hives
only. Do not put the trap on till w little after noon, choosing a hot
bright day, when nearly every male may be had by about two o’clock.

JULY.

This month gives the greatest yield of honey, the supers now grow-
ing rapidly heavy, especially if the bees have access to white clover or
lime trees. If storified supers be used (see page 65), let the upper ones
be removed as fast as filled. This remark applies equally to boxes (page
66), or the amount of surplus will be much reduced. When the honey is
removed, and the bees dislodged (see page 68), paste paper over the open-
ings, and store in the position occupied when on the hive, in a dry, cool
place.

Gluts of honey will occasionally force the bees to fill up the brood-nest
with store; in this case they hang idle in front of the hive as before
swarming. Assist both bees and profit account by using the extractor
or smielatore (see pages 69, 70), or place empty combs in the centre of
the brood-nest, for which room must be made by removing filled outside
ones; or, as the next best remedy, super at once, giving all available
clean empty comb; but, should the bees already have a well advanced
super, add a shallow one to it, combed if possible.

Shade is necessary lest combs melt and fall from their attachments.
Light-coloured wooden hives (see page 82), with ventilated super case (see
page 23), can hardly suffer in the most ardent rays of the sun; but with
skeps, and the less complete frame hives, leafy boughs will be of service,
if no more permanent screening can be provided. *

July Swarms should, as a rule, be returned. They weaken the stock
late, so that it will rather require aid than give a surplus (unless heather
is near and abundant), while the swarm itself will not have time to gather
(except as above) a sufficiency to carry it through the winter. To return
it, open the frame hive and destroy all queen cells. Then throw the
swarm on to 2 board, propped up to the entrance of the hive: (see pages
82 and 44.) If the queen be known to be old, destroy all queen cells but
one, and throw down the bees on to a sheet a yard from the hive face.
Guide them towards the hive, if they need it, by dropping a spoonful or
two near the hive mouth. Watch for the queen as she travels over the
space intervening between swarm and hive, and remove her. It is more
difficult to control swarming in skeps than in. frame hives, because we
cannot get at the queen cells: with these it is often best to unite a late
swarm to another : (see page 62.)
110 APPENDIX.

If two late swarms be united, they usually do well, but of course the
stocks whence they came are both injured by losing them.

The honey harvest closes in many localities before the end of J uly, although
something is gathered even till far into October. As soon as the incom-
ing is reduced to the level of expenditure, the supers, filled or unfilled,
should be removed, or the bees will commence to carry down the honey
into the stock hives : (see page 67.)

AUGUST.

Those who are near to heather have yet another harvest for their bees,
The moors assume their purple tone in forward seasons before the advent of
August. Frame hives had better be prepared for removal as recom-
mended: (sce page 101.) Skeps will hardly, at this season, travel safely,
unless sticks (see page 49) are run through the combs. They may be
inverted and packed as described at page 32; or if, they have large feed
and flight holes these can be covered with perforated zinc, and the skep
nailed to its bottom board whenall can travel in situ.

Drones are usually now worried out of the hives. If any colony
suffers its drones to live when they have been driven out generally, that
colony is probably queenless: (see page 82.)

Supers.—After a super has been removed, cautiously watch the stock,
especially in unfavourable weather, or much mischief may arise for want
of food: (see page 66.)

Wasp nests should be searched out and destroyed : (see page 91.)

Robbing is now again likely to occur. Contract the openings of the
hive generally somewhat, and consult calendar for April, and page 56.
All surplus should now be removed early in the morning, or after sunset,
and honey must be exposed as little as possible, or temptation will work
mischief.

SEPTEMBER.

Pasturage is now scanty, and light skeps may be bought very cheaply
of cottagers for transferring (see page 77), and, by feeding, may be made
jnto good stocks.

Condemned bees may now be purchased and treated as explained at
page 75. Whilst drumming bees for yourself, explain to the owners the
method, and show them the folly of destroying the little labourers in the
sulphur pit. You may not be able to make bee masters of cottagers in
one lesson, but you can let in some light, and may be, as we have been,
gratefully thanked for your kindness, while your willingness to buy what
the old system destroys, is an unanswerable argument that there is waste
somewhere.

Italiamising, by the aid of drones from a queenless stock, may be prac-
tised this month: (see page 82.)
APPENDIX. 111

Prolong the breeding season by gentle feeding, as bees hatched now
will last far into next spring (see page 58), and at the end of the movth
bring their weight up to that required for wintering.

Pollen.—At the end of the month, on a warm day, search amongst your
stocks for combs containing excess of pollen; give these to your con-
demned bees in exchange for one of their white combs, both will thus
be helped immensely.

Artificial pollen may be given to condemned bees now or next month
by shaking it into one of their combs, holding the latter in a horizortal
position. The bees ram it down and use it, but any part left is very
liable to mildew during the winter.

Robbing must more than ever be guarded against: (see last month.)

Where skeps are taken up for honey, fix all their brood combs with up-
right sticks side by side, and place a hive over all, giving bees to them
to hatch them out; then use these bees to strengthen your stocks; but
this plan is only to us at the best “ new wine in old bottles.”

The fronds of the brake fern may be collected. Draw the hand along
the frond in such a way that the rachis (midrib) passes through it.
The material will now be sufficiently divided to form a most useful quilt
for winter use if sgwn up in a cheese cloth the shape of a pillow case. I$
ventilates capitally, and is avoided by mo _ imsect pests. We are
indebted for this suggestion to Mr. F. R. Jackson, of Slindon. This
braken may replace the chaff advised at page 100,

OCTOBER.

Stocks now return from the moors, and honey for the year is over.
Preparations must now be made for wintering. Hives which are leaky
in the roof, or in other ways in need of attention, should have their con-
tents transferred to sound ones, for the benefit of the stock cn the one
hand and the repair of the hive on the other. Carry out the direction
given at pages 100 and 101.

Shelter the hives in front, in anticipation of snow (see page 102), so that
the bees may not be bewildered about their entrance by new arrangements
in colder weather. Narrow the entrances to prevent the ingress of mice:
(see page 91.)

Condemned. bees, in the first or second week of the month, if strong in
numbers, may still be fed up into good stocks, especially if helped with
a pollen bound comb : (see last month.)

NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER,

The bees have now retired into winter quarters, and will require but
little attention, if in good hands, until the end of the following February
or beginning of March. Omissions may still, however, be corrected.
112 APPENDIX.

Combs for the use of next year’s swarms should, if clear from the wax
moth trail (see page 90), be carefully packed away.

Waz.—Scraps of all kinds should now be treated as explained at page 73.

Bee paraphernalia should be overhauled, cleaned, and repaired ; and
having left nothing to chance which we could provide against, we may in
well earned repose, even when the snow drives and the wind whistles,
indulge the pleasant reflection that our bees are snug and warm, waiting
for the time when they shall again greet their master with their merry
hum in the once more strengthening sunbeam.
ds JSF 4D Bi Se

weet pac

A.

Abbott Cottage Hive. . page 14
Abbott Hive ...... 22
Adapting Board D Garin Ney (<0
Adjusting Flight Hole . . 17
After Swarms . . a 34
Age of Bees. . . . . - 60
Air of Hive Pure. . 98
Amount of Store Required for

Wintering . . . . 93
Aphide Honey. .... 74
Apis Ligustica . . 80

April, Calendar of Operations
LOPTS a, ce: o's Cea gh
Aspect for Hives . . .
Apportioning Bees in ‘Artificial
Swarming
Arranging positions of Forced
Swarms. ....
Artificial Pollen . . . ..

Swarming. .

Swarming of Single skep
Assorting Honey . .
August, Calendar of Opera.

tions for. . . . .

B.

Bee Dress .. - :
Food, Recipe for
Houses. .«

Moth . .

Bees Clustering

Reason of . . .

Bees eating Eggs... .

Bleaching Wax .... .

Bad Systems of Artificial

Swarming ... .

outside,

25
47
57
90

- 109

60
74

45

 

Bar Frame Hives. . . yagelz
Barley Sugar feeding . . . 94
Bar Supers. . . . . . . 65
Borage for Bees . . . - 106

Bottle Covers . . . » « 49
Bottom Boards for Supers » . 65
Box Hives, how Driven. . . 38
Brake Fern for Quilt . . .111
Braula Ceca . . 91
Breathing on Bees, Irritating 28
In Bees .. 96
Breeding Promoted by Feeding 60
Brushing Bees. . . . . . 45
Cc.
Calendar :
January ..... .104
February... . - 105
March . aS » 105
April . 2... 1. . 106
May. . oh Seas - 107
June... . 108
July. . . ‘ - 109
August. . . . . . . 110
September. . . . . . 110
October. . . . « AT],
November. . - 111
December. . « 2A
Carbolic Acid to prevent Rob.
bing . - 57
Carr Queen Cage i _ 84
Stewarton Hive. . . 23
Casting, Prevention of . 35
Signs of . . 84
Casts build Worker Comb only 85
Often fly far. . . 35
Casts in Plaster from Natural
Combs : 54
Cause of Foul Brood. . . . 89
 

114 INDEX.
Cause of Piping . . . page 34 | Drone Comb for ae page 64
Caution in Removing i . 66 Midribs . . ‘ y
Cellaring Bees. . 102 Traps . . Sa
Cells, Sizeof . . ... 5 | Drones, how Produced 86
Characteristics of Queen 6 Dromming fie sus he 36
Cheese Boxes as Hive Covers. 10 A Frame Hive © & ew 88
Cheshire Crown Board . 20 | Dummy. ...... 19
Dividing Frame. . . 81 | Dysentery . ... » 98
Feeding Stage i 59
Guides and Midribs 54
Guide Maker . 52 E.
Hi a a 17
Pin Trap i 6g | Embossed Sheet . . .. 51
Smoker. . 26 | Encasement of Queen 83
Chilled Brood . 90 | Eradication of Foul Brood . 90
China Matting . 99 | Establishing an Apiary and
Clarifying Wax : 23 Ligurianising, bipe
Cleaning Hands from Propolis 74 ter X. - . 75
Clearing Brood Nest. . . 109 | Expanding Supers, Fox's 65
Clearing Entrance of Dead ee Hives. . . . ee
Bees. . . .. . 101 OPS. ss 2
Supers of Bees . 67 aes of Stations. - 107
Close Driving . . 3 gg | Extractor . . . . . . . 69
Cocoon spun by Larve . 6
Colour for Hives . . . . 82 F
Composition of Honey . . 96 ;
Condemned Bees . 2 75 | Fanning Bees . . 98
Content i oo Hives, ‘ February, Calendar of Opera-

Ow foun! : tions for . - . 105
Corrugated Alighting Board 16 | Felt Hive Cover _u
Cowan’s Boxes. - 86 | Fertile Workers . . 87
Cure of Foul Brood. . . . 89 | Finding Queen. 41

Five-pin Trap . i ae ww» BE
D. On Super Case . . . . 23
Fixing Combs . » . 64
December, Calendar _— of Floor Boards for Skeps 9
Operations for . - 111 | Poul Brood . . 88
Diseases and Enemies - 88 | Fowls. 92
Disturbance during eo Frail. . " 100
damaging 97 | Frames of the Cheshire Hive 18
ate Pie “ 66 Frightening Bees . . 26
r. Schonfeld’s xperimen 8 F ti
on the cause of Foul See stOR i
Brood a a 89
Double Storied Hive. . 72 G.
Double Walls for Hives, why
desirable 17 | Glass Supers . . . . . 64
Dried Pollen Removed by Bees 62 | Glucose . . 48
Driving = oe 36 be arate drive easily 37
From Box Hives ; 38 uide Maker 50
Improper after Hot Days 39 | Guides for Bar Supers J 65
In Cold Weather 38 4 For Skeps. . . .. 49
H.

Handling Frames. . .
Hay Rick Cover . . .

INDEX.

page 28
» 94

Hive Ranges". . . . 76
Stand .. 9
Hives, which yield most Super
Honey es 66
Hiving Swarms . 32
Honey, a Source of heat. 97
Dew. . 74
Draining from the Comb . 72
Knife... . . 76
Honeyless Queen Cages . - e+ 85
Hooker’s Hive Cases . . 58
How to Feed Bees. . 48
See both sides of Frames. . 28
Hunter’s Hinge and Skewers . 37
Hybriduing. . . . . 2. . 86
I,
Imported Queens. . . . . 80
Inserting Queen Cells . . . 43
Instinct stereotyped. . . 101
Introducing Queens . 5 83
Introducing Swarm to Frame
Hives . .. 32
Introducing Swarm to Hives
with Fixed Legs . . 33
Italian Extractor. . . . . 70
J.
Jackets . . 1... 2 4 - 64
Jackson’s Quilt. . - 111
July, Calendar of Operations
for. . - 109
June, Calendar of Operations
for. . . . « . . 108
L.
Lamp Nurseries . . .. . 88
Larva Spinsa Web. . . 6
Late Hatches of Brood, how
obtained . 60
Lee’s Prize Supers . sa 21
Life of Bees, duration of . . 60
Ligurians . . a ec ees ey 80)
Long’s Foundations . 51
Loose Comb in Supers . . 56

 

Loss of Heat equivalent to

115

Loss of Honey page 97

Loss of Queen at time of

Swarming . . .. 33
M.
Making Swarms from Frame
Hives for own Apiary 44
For Packing . : 43
Management of Stations in
Forcing Swarms . 41
March, Calendar of Operations
OP se se a He 105
May, Calendar of Operations
for, . . . . . . 107
Measurement for Frames . 18
Methegln ....... 78
Mice . ¥ » 91
Moisture in Hives, How Pre.
vented ‘ » » 3
Moors, Sending Bees to. - . 110
N.
Natural History of Bees . . 5
Natural Swarming ... . 29
Inconvenient. . . 40
Neighbour’s Cottage Hive . €
November, Calendar of Opera-
tions for. . . .1ii
Nucleus Hives. . . ... 81
oO.
Open Driving . . 37
October, Calendar of Opera- :
tions for. . . . . 111
P.
Packing Swarm for Journey . 32
Paraffin Guides . . .. . 56
Pasturage . . . 58
Pea Flour as Food for Bees 62
Phacelia for Bees. . . . . 108
Piping . . . - «© « « « 84
Plane Guides . . 50
Plan for Cutting Felt Covers
for Skeps . . , 10
Plan for Cutting Floor Boards 9
Plaster Mould for Guides . . 52
116

Pollen . .... . page6l

Porch of Hive. . . . 16

Presence of Queen in Swarm,
Signsof. . . . . 3i

Preserving Combs ... . 91
Preventing Casting . . . . 35
Natural Swarming . 46

Prevention of Drone Comb
Building . . . 55
Principles of the ‘Extractor’ . 71
Principles Governing Artificial
Swarming . .. 45
Propolis. . Boe ateay MAA
Protection of Skeps . fat at et LO)
Purchasing Bees . . o.
Pure Impregnation . . . . 83

Q.
Queen Cages . . . .. . 88
Cells . .. 33

Cells for Forced Stocks, »
Great Economy . . 42
Cells, Signs of Fitness to

Transfer . sa a
Characteristics of . . . 6
Finding 41, 109
Raising . x «4 BO
With Forced ‘Swarm, Evi-

denceof . . 41

Queenlessness, Signs of . 82, a
Queens, How Produced . 2

Oe an

R.

Raynor Queen Cage. . . . 85
Re-arranging an Apiary . . 102
Recipe for Bee Food. 3 47
Regicidal Knot ‘ 84

Revolving Feeding Stage . . 59
Robbing. . . . . . 56
Royal Jelly. . . . 6
Rule for Finding Content of
Circular Hives. . . . 8
Running Honey . . . . . 8
Rustic Hive Cover... . 11

8.

Second Swarms .. - . 384
Section of Cheshire Hive i 16
Securing a Swarm ... . 81

 

 

INDEX.

Selecting Bees for Purchase page 75
September, Calendar of ina
tions for. . . . 110

Shade from Sun . * -« LO9
From Snow Glare . 104, 106
Sheet Wax, how Made . . . 51
Sherrington Frames. . . . 21
Hive . 3 ar ee SO

Shovel for Feeding es de ee 8B,
Signs of Casting . . . . . 34
Foul Brood . . 88
Having secured the ‘Queen
intakinga Swarm . 31
Swarming. . . . 29
SizeofSkep ...... 7
Cells . . .... 5, 54

Skeps. . 7
Sliding Doors for ‘Flight Hole 16
Slow feeding . . 59
Small Swarms, Management of 19
Smielatore. ...... 70
Smokers. . . ..... 26

Smoke Torches . . .. . 27
Snails. « 2 wv @ « w « w OF
Snow. . deo Ged
Source of Wax. oe ew ew AT
Specialities in Honey . . . 73
Spring and Autumn Feeding . 58
Spring Dwindling, Cause of . 12
Sprinkling Bottle. . . . . 38
Starvation, Signsof. . .
Starved Bees . . . .
Stewarton Hive . ... . 22

Slide « « « sac « » 2
Sticks in Skeps . . 49

Stocking Nuclei « «x 82
Straightening Bars a se 9)
Straw and Glass Supers. . . 64
Hackle. . . .... 11
Hives . . ho iy ta OE
Strengthening Nuclei | 82

Strengthening Weak Stocks
by Change of Stations 107
Strong Stocks Consumeno more
than Weak Ones. . 97
Substitute for Wax . . . . 56
Sulphur Pit. . . . 110
Sunflowers Provide Pollen Late
inthe Year. . . . 106
Super Cover for Bar Hives . 16
Supering, Extracting, and Har-
vesting . ... . 64
INDEX.

Supering Hive, Straw . page 8
Supers, Clearing of Bees . . 67
Enticing Bees into. . . 108
' ForSkeps. . . .. . 9
Swarming, Artificial. . . . 40
Board . . .... . 44
Boxes . . . 75
Impulse causes ola Stand
to be forgotten . 33, 46
Swarms, good tempered . . 30
Must be kept Cool. . . 30
Require feeding. . . . 47
Swarm with lost Queen. . . 33
SyrupCan. - ..... 48

T.

Taking off Supers ... . 67

Taking Swarms . ... . 31

Three outoftwo. . .. . 41

Throwing . . . 388

Time of Natural Swarming . 29
To Remove Swarm to

Stand .... 82

Todds) « « « « »* « « 91
Tomtit, the . ‘ « « 91
Transferring oe ew eG
Board. . ..... @7
Trapped Supers .. 66

Treatment of Casts "when
Queen is lost . . 85
Of Packed Swarms . . 382
Of Swarms and Stocks . 47
Twin Frame ... . 81
Supers ...... 2

Uz
Uncapping Knife. . ...

 

117
Unfilled Hives difficult to

drive . . page 93
Unfinished Supers to remove. 67
Uniting . 2 a te 162:
Utilising old Conk aa ee

Vv.
Value of Casts . .... 35
Veil . . « = 25

Ventilation Necessary L » . 96
Vinegar from waste Honey . 72
Vulcanite Feeding Stage . . 59

Ww.
Wasps . . 2 ¢ & w w OD
Water for Bees se w «a w “OL
Waterproofing Covers... 11
Wax Bleaching . . . 74

Clarifying .... . 73
Moth... .... 90
Sourceof. . . ... 47

Weeds around Hives. . . . 107
Why do Bees drive? . . . 38
Why weak Stocks winter
badly. . . . . 97
Woodbury Bar, section of . . 14
Hive .. s « AS

Wood Crowns for ‘Straw Hives 8
Wooden Slips between Frames
for Wintering . . 101

Y.

Young Bees essential for Win-
tering . .... 60

Z.

69 | Zinc Adapter . . 2 . . . 65
ADVERTISEMENTS.

JAMES LEH,

BAGSEHOT,

Solicits orders for the undermentioned, executed in
his well-known style of workmanship, acknowledged
to be superior to any yet made.

CHESHIRE GRYSTAL PALACE PRIZE FRAME HIVE
DOUBLE CASED,
With Stand, Prize Supers, Cover, &c., complete:
No. 1.—Stippled ......... 45s. 0d. No. 2.—Painted ......... 37s. 6d.
No. 3.—Without stand or supers ...... 27s. 6d.
Nos. 1 and 2, in straw, with movable cover, painted or stippled, same

prices.
THE CHESHIRE STOCK HIVE,

Same in arrangement of frames and dummy as above, but single

sided, and without stand, supers, or super case. Admirable

for use in a beehouse, or with a hayrick cover ..........sscseeereee 8s. 6d.

The Cheshire Hive is so simple in management that it is a favourite
wherever introduced. As the demand for the expensive form is con-
stantly growing, it is thought that this cheaper hive will secure a large
sale amongst beekeepers with whom economy and utility are first con-
siderations.

 
 
    
 

s. d

Cheshire Nucleus Hive .......cscsecereceeveeaneecesceeee ‘teieas A2 6
54 Smoker ....... . 2 0

ss Drone Trap......csececsevscevan veces A 4 6

Ss Safety Syrup Can and Shovel ...............scs008 6 6

PP Vulcanite Feeding Stages......... per doz. 5s.and8 0

5 Rotating Stage for use with Quilt ............... 1 6

Cheshire guide maker for guides, 14in. wide, packed, 4s. For greater
widths prices on application.

LEE’S CRYSTAL PALACE PRIZE SUPERS,

4in. deep by 13in. square inside.
The top is fitted with seven movable bars; the spaces between the two
outer ones are fitted with slides for use when more than one is used at
once. They can be piled on top of each other according to the season
and the strength of the colony.
Price per pair 5s. 60.3 or each 8s.

Lee’s Two-comb Sectional Supers, each fitted with guide combs,
easily separated when filled with honey-combs. Two rows of four sections
can be worked at once, and, if required, can also be piled one top of the
other. Price, including glass ends to every four, 43d. each.

Lee’s Sectional Box Supers, similar to the above, but each is a
eomplete super with two glass sides. Price 6d. each.

JAMES LEE. MANUFACTURER, BAGSHOT.
ADVERTISEMENTS.

BERKSHIRE BEHEE-HIVE.
(SILVER MEDAL.)
Zee

 

Ir is universally acknowledged to
be a most useful and interesting hive,
to which the highest testimonials are
constantly being received. It com-
bines the advantages of glass with
the utility of wood, consisting of
Store Box and Two Supers; each
Super will hold 20lb, of honey, and
by removing full ones and replacing
them empty, unlimited room is
given, and swarming prevented.
Price 20s.

“For facility of observation, for
simplicity of management, and for
profit, all combined, it is unrivalled.”
—Journal of Horticulture, Oct. 15,
1868,

In the engraving the floor-board is reversed to show the entrance and stopper.

BERKSHIRE BEE-SHEDS,

“UNIQUE AND HANDSOME,” TO ORDER,
Sole Inventor and Maker,

J. SADLER, SONNING, near READING, BERKS.

    
    

      

 

psa PEAR: Its History, Varieties, and Cultivation. Illus-
trated, By D,T. FISH. Poatfree, 1s. 1d.

ULBS and BULB CULTURE. ([llustrated. By D. T.

FISH. Part I. Snowdrops, Bulbocodiums, Sternbergias, Crocus, Colchicums,
Tulips, and Hyacinths, and how to grow them in and out of doors. Part II., Ane-
mones, Narcissus, Lilies. Post free, 1s. 1d. each,

rae APPLE: Its History, Varieties, and Cultivation, Tlus-
trated, By D. T. FISH. Post free, 1s.1d.

yu GARDENING : With lists of Trees, Shrubs, and .
Pl

ants most suitable, and thirteen Designs for small gardens. By W. J. MAY.
Post free, 1s, 1d,

INE CULTURE for AMATEURS. Instructions for grow-
ing Grapes with the means and appliances usually at the command of Ama-
teurs. Illustrated By W.J.MAY. Post free, 1s, 1d.

Re GROWING for AMATEURS: being Practical Instruc-

tions for the successful Culture of Roses, with selections of the best varieties
adapted to the requirements of the Amateur in Town or Country. By W. D.
PRIOR. Post free, 1s. 8d. :

PSESING GRAFTING, and BUDDING FRUIT TREES.

Illustrated with ninety-three diagrams. By D.T. FISH. Post free, 1s. 1d.
AWN TENNIS: Its Laws and Practice. MIlustrated. Post

free, 64d.

LONDON: 170, STRAND, W.C.
ADVERTISEMENTS.

In Russia-leather, price 5s. 6d., Morocco, 48. 6d., or roan, 3s. 6d.,

postage 2d. extra,

THE COUNTRY POCKET BOOK & DIARY

FOR
REFERENCE AND REGISTRATION.

Indispensable to all who are interested in Sport or Rural Pursuits.
The following are the principal contents :—

a = -
ugagements,
Fishing

Shooting.

Cricketing.

Athletics.

Bicycling.

Football.

Breeder’s.

Cash.

Calendar.

Post Office Charges.

Close Time for Trout and
Char in England and
Wales.

Weight of Trout.

Tolls on the Thames.

Sizes of Thames Fish that

Killed.

 

    
 
 
 
  
  
 

Aquatic Champion-

and Terms.

Birds.
Boat

 
   
 

Land.
Trees,
Cham-

of Boats.

 

Close Time for Game.

Number of Shot in a Charge.

‘Winners of the Derby.

Gentlemen yv. Players.

Winners of the Oaks.

Close Time for Salmon in
England and Wales.

Size of Lea Fish that may be

eKill

ed.

Close Time for Fixed Engines
for Eels.

Close Times for Oysters.

Winners of the St. Leger.
My nners of the Ascot Gold

ap.

Oxford and Cambridge
Cricket.

Eton vy. Harrow.

Close Time for Sea Birds.

Winners of the 2000 Guineas.

Inspectors of Salmon Fish-
eries.

Newspapers relating to
port.

Football Association Chal-
lenge Cup.

Papers devoted to special
branches of Sport.

Magazines and Annuals re-
lating to Sport.

Inter - Hospit Football
Challenge Cup.

North v. South Football.

Oxford University Terms.

Close Time for the Thames.

Cambridge University Terms

Plants to an Acre.

Close Time for Wildfowl.

Manures free of Turnpikes.

 

Poultry and Pigeon Clubs,
uarter Sessions.
orn Measure.

Fire Insurance.

Hay and Straw Measure,

Weight of Hay.

Rainfallin 1877, _

Barometrical Readings.

Weight of Cattle.

Railway Carriage of Dogs,

Dog Clubs. és

Salmon Fisheries Commis.
sioners, Scotland. =

Inspectors of Fisheries in
Treland. .

Periods of Gestation.

Periods of Incubation.

Close Time for Crabs and

Lobsters.

Close Time for Coarse Fish
in Norfolk and Suffolk. —

Acts of Parliament relating
to Sports and Rural Pur-
suits.

Locks on the Thames, and
their distances from Lon-
don and Oxford, and from
each other,

High Water Variation in the

hames.

 

Measurement of Water.
Weather Forecasts.
Thermometric Scales.
Coming Events.

Close Time for Salmon and
Trout in Ireland. 2
Close Time for Salmon in

Scotland.
Sizes of Flower-pots.

 

In Russia-leather, 4s, 6d.; morocco, 3s. 6d. ; roan, 2s.6d.; with two pockets,

places for stamps, pencil,

&e.,

THE BICYCLIST’S POCKET BOOK & DIARY
REFERENCE AND REGISTRATION.

CONTENTS:

Monthly Calendar of Bicycling Events. Montbly Review of Last Year. Post

Office Charges. Diary of Runs, for entering Runs and their Mileage for every day
in the year, The Best Recorded Professional Performances. Bugle Calls: ‘ Atten-
tion,” ‘‘ The Assembly,” and ‘‘ Prepare to Mount,” “ Mount,” “‘ Dismount,” “ Form
Single File,” ‘‘ Form Twos,” “Dinner.” Table Showing the Difference between
English and Irish Miles. Diary of Engagements, &c. London and Provincial
Clubs, their Head quarters, Secretaries, and Colours, Circular Runs from London:
57 miles, north-west; 47 miles, east; 60 miles, west; 70 miles, west; 84 miles,
north-west ; 56 miles, Surrey and Kent; 120 miles, Surrey and Sussex ; 50 miles,
north-west; 46 miles, east ; 62 miles, north ; 45 miles, north-west ; 46 miles, west ;
80 miles, north; 80 miles, Surrey, Oxon, Berks, and Bucks; 44 miles, Surrey,
Middlesex, and Berks; 50 miles, Surrey; 66 miles, Surrey; 60 miles, Kent. On
Roadster Bicycles. On Touring. Best Recorded Amateur Performances. Directions
for Club Excursions and General Road Riding. Railway Carriage of Bicycles, &c.
Cash Memoranda, for entering Expences of Tours, Runs, &c.

“COUNTRY ” OFFICE: 170, STRAND, W.C.
    

P 1 “f
i \ \ =\\ &.
——— — ——— od

MUSICAL TUITION IN CLASSES.

 

C. ROYLANCE,

Originator of Musical Tuition in Classes

(For Viowin, FLUTE, on ENGLISH CONCERTINA,
AT 6s. PER QUARTER),
Has found it necessary to CAUTION intending PUPILS, or
Purchasers of Musical Instruments, that his ONLY ADDRESS

Is

184, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD,

Where instruments may be had on easy term of payment, and the
greatest advantage offered for cash payment.

A VIOLIN CLASS FOR LADIES MEETS EVERY SATURDAY
AT 6 O'CLOCK. TERMS 6s. PER QUARTER.

 

Price List and Prospectus Free.

 

184, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD.
PRACTICAL HANDBOOKS

PUBLISHED AT 170, STRAND, LONDON, W.C.

 

HANDBOOKS ON ANIMALS, BIRDS, &c.

I.

Breaking and Training Dogs:

Being Concise Directions for the proper Education both for the Field and as Com-
panions, of Retrievers, Pointers, Setters, Spaniels, Terriers, &c.
in cloth gilt, 58.; by post, 5s. 4d.

aie
Diseases of Dogs:
Their Pathology. Dia gnosis. and Treatment; to_which is added a complete
Dictionary of Canine Materia Medica. For the Use of Amateurs. ‘By HUGH
a paper, price 1s., by post Is, 1d.; in cloth gilt 2s., by post 2s, 2d.
Ii.
Diseases of Horses:

Their Pathology, Diagnosis, and Treatment; to which is added a complete
Pictionary: of Equine Materia Medica, For the Use of Amateurs. By AUGH

In paper, price, 1s. 6d.; post free, 1s. 8d.
IV.

Practical Dairy Farming:

A short Treatise on the Profitable Management of a Dairy Farm. Illustrated.
By G. SEAWARD WITCOMBE,
In paper, price 1s. 6d.; by post, 1s. 7d.

Book of the Goat:

Containing Practical Directions for the Management of the Milch Goat in Health
and Disease. Illustrated. By STEPHEN HOLME Ss.
Cheap edition, in paper, price 1s. ; by post, 1s. 1d.

VI.
General Management of Rabbits:

Containing Hutches, Breeding, Feeding, Diseases and their Treatment, Rabbits as
a Food Supply, &.
In paper, price 1s. ; by post, 1s. 1d.

Vit.
Ferrets and Ferreting :

Containing Instructions for the Breeding, Management, and Working of Ferrets.
In paper, price6d.; by post, 7d.

Vil.

Fancy Mice:
Their Varieties, Management, and Breeding. Tlustrated.
“In paper, price 6d.; by post, 64d.
Practical Handbooks.—Handbooks on Animals, Birds, &¢. (continued).

Ix.

Foreign Cage Birds:

Containing Full Directions for Successfully Bresding, Raaring, and Managing the
pans Beautifel Cage Birds imported into this country. Beautifully Lllustrated,

In cloth gilt, in two vols., price 8s. 64.; by post, 9s.

Vol. na Farrote, Cockatoos, Lories, and Macaws. In cloth gilt, price
y post, 8s.
Vol. IT. .—Waxbills, Finches, Weavers, Orioles, and other Aviary Birds. In cloth gilt
Price 5s.; by post, 53. 4d.

The vols. may be had separately.
x.
Canary Book:

ee Full Directions for the Breeding, Rearing, and Management of
Canaries and Canary Mules; Formation of Canary Sovieties; Exhibition Canaries,
their points and breeding; and all other matters connected with this fancy, Lilus-
traied, By ROBERT L. WALLACE. In one vol., cloth gilt, price 53., by post,
5s. 4d.

May also be hai in parts as follows :,

Ba ete 7 Gonoral senagement. } In paper, price 2s. each, by post, 2s. 2d.
XI.

Poultry for Prizes and Profit:

Contains, Breeding Poultry for Prizes, Exhibition Poultry. and Management of the
Poultry Yard, Handsomely Illustrated. By JAMES LONG.

In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d.; by post, 2s. 9d.

Xi.
Ducks and Geese:

Their Characteristics, Points, and Managem2nt. By VARIOUS BREEDERS.
Splendidly illustrated.

In paper, price 1s. 64.; by post, 1s. 7d.
XIII.
Practical Bee-keeping :

Being Plain Instructions to the Amateur for the Successful Management of the
Honey Bee. Illustrated. Re-written and Enlarged. By FRANK CHESHIRE.

In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d.; by post, 2s. 9d.

oe IN THE PRESS.
British Dogs:
Their Varieties, History, and Characteristics. Illustrated wits numerous Portraits
of Dogs of the Day. By HUGH DALZIEL.
Division I.—Dogs Used in Field Sports.

Rabbit Book:

Being a Complete Guide to the Successful Breeding and Rearing of every Variety
of tne Fancy Rabbit, bo‘n for the Exhibition Pen aad the Table, Magnificently
illustrated, This will be the most exhaustive work on Rabbits ever published.

Exhibition Rabbits:

Containing careful descriptions of Angora, Belgian Hare, Dutch, Himalayan, Lops,
Patagonian, Polish, siberian, Silver Grsy and Silver Cream, Fancy Rabbits, with
several full page portraits of prize specimens.

Fancy Pigeons:
Containing full directions for the Breeding and er vith allo of Fancy Pigeons,
and Descriptions of every known variety, together with all other inrormation of
interest or use to Pigeon Fanciers. Illustrated. By J. 0. LY#UL.
Practical Handbooks, Published at 170, Strand, W.C.

MANUALS ON PRACTICAL MECHANICS.

I.
Patents, Trade Marks, and Designs:

A Practical Guide to Inventors and Manufacturers for Securing Protection under
each of these heads. By ARCHIBALD CRAIG.

In cloth gilt, price 1s. 6d.; by post, 1s.8d. In paper, price 1s.; by post, 1s. 1d.
I.
Practical Architecture :

As applied to Farm Buildings of every description (Cow, Cattle and Calf Houses,
Stables, Piggeries, Sheep Shelter Sheds, Root. and other Stores, Poultry Houses),
Dairies, and Country Houses and Gottages. Profusely Ilustrated with Diagrams
and Plans. By ROBERT SCOTT BURN.

In cloth gilt, price 5s.; by post, 5s. 4d.

TIL.
Art of Pyrotechny :

Being Comprehensive and Practical instructions for the Manufacture of Fire-
works Bpecial’y designed for the use of Amateurs. Profusely Illustrated. By

» Ph.D, M.A., L.R.C.P.. &. Second Edition.
In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d,, by post, 2s. 10d.
Iv.

Minor Fireworks :

Containing Instructions for the Manufacture of the Common and Simple Varieties,
of Fireworks. For the Use of Amateurs. Illustrated. By W.H. BROWNE, Ph.D.,
M.A., &. (Author of ‘‘ The Art of Pyrotechny’’).

In paper, price ls.; by post, 1s. 1d.

Vv.
Practical Boat Building for Amateurs :

Containing full Instructions for Designing and Building Punts, Skiffs, Canoes,
Bailing Hoste, &c. Fully illustrated with working diagrams. By ADRIAN

NEIS *
In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d., by post 2s, 8d.

VI.
Printing for Amateurs :

A Practical Guide to the Art of Printing; containing Descriptions of Presses and
Materials, together with Details of the Processes employed, to which is added a
Glossary of Technical Terms. Illustrated. By P. E. AYNOR.

In paper, price 1s.; by post 1s. 2d.

VII.
Turning for Amateurs:

Containing full Description of the Lathe, with all its working parts and attach-
ments, and minute instructions for the effective use of them on wood, metal, and
ivory. Llustrated with 180 first class wood engravings. Second Edition.

In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d.; by post, 2s. 9d.

VIII.
Carpentry and Joinery for Amateurs :

Contains full Descriptions of the various Tools required in the above Arts,
together with Practical Instructions for their use. By the Author of “ Turning
for Amateurs,” “ Working in Sheet Metal,”’ &c.

In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d.; by post, 2s. 9d.
Practical Handbooks.—Manuals on Practical Mechanics (continued).

Ix.

Working in Sheet Metal :

Being Practical Instructions for Making and Mending small Articles in Tio
Copper, Iron, Zinc, and Brass. Ilustrated, Third Edition. By the Author o
< Turnin g for Amateurs,” &c. a

In paper, price 6d.; by post, 64d.

Xx,
Wood Carving for Amateurs:

Containing Descriptions of all the requisite Tools, and full Instructions for their
use in producing different varieties of Carvings. Illustrated.
In paper, price 1s.; by post, 1s. 1d.

IN THE PRESS.

Organs and Organ Building :
Giving the History and Construction of the Modern Organ, and Descriptions of the
most remarkable Instruments. By C. A. EDWARDS,

POPULAR NATURAL HISTORY,

I.
Practical Taxidermy :

A Manual of Instruction to the Amateur in Collecting, Preserving, and Setting-up
Natural History Specimens of all kinds. Illustrated. By MONTAGU BROWNE.
In cloth gilt, price 8s, 6d; by post, 3s. 9d.

II

Collecting Butterflies and Moths :

Being Directions for Capturing, Killing. and Preserving Lepidoptera and their
Larve. Illustrated. Reprinted, with additions, from ‘*‘ Practical Taxidermy.”
By MONTAGU BROWNE. author of “ Practical Taxidermy.”

In paper, price 1s.; by post Is, 1d.

I,

I
Popular British Fungi:
Containing Descriptions and Histories of the Principal Fungi, both Edible and
Poisonous of our Country. Dlustrated. By JAMES BRITTEN, F.L.S., &.
In cloth gilt, price 8s. 6d.; by post, 88. 9d.

IV.

British Marine Alge:

Being a Popular Account of the Seaweeds of Great Britain, their Collection
an peuseryetlon Magnificently Illustrated with 205 engravings. By W. H.

* In cloth gilt, price 5s. 6d.; by post, 53. 10d.

IN THE PRESS,

Zoological Notes :
On the Structure, Affinities, Habits, and Faculties of Animals; with Adventures
among and Anecdotes of thm. By ARTHUR NILOLS, F.G.S8., F.R.G.S. (Author
of “The Puzzle of Life, and How it Has Been Put Together.”
Practical Handbooks, Published at 170, Strand, W.C.

PRACTICAL GUIDES TO GARDENING.

I.
The Hardy Fruit Book:

Consisting of a Series of Exhaustive Treatises on the various Hardy Fruits grown
in this corntry ; giving the History, the most desirable Sorts, and the best Methods
of Cultivation of each. Illustrated. By D. T. FISH (Author of “ Pruning, Graft-
ing, and Budding Fruit Trees,” ‘‘ Bulhs and Bulb Culture’”’ &c.
Vol. I.—" The Apple,” ‘‘ The Pear,” ‘‘The Peach and Nectarine.”
In cloth gilt, price 5s.; by post, 5s. 5d.
May also be had in parts as follow:

The Apple:

Its History, ‘Varieties and. Cultivation.

‘n paper, price ls.; by post, 1s. 1d.
The Pear:

Its History, Varieties, and Cultivation.
In paper, price 1s. 6d.; by post, 1s, 7d.

The Peach and Nectarine:

Their History, Verietier, and Cultivation.
In paper, price 1s. 6d.; by post, 1s. 7d.

II.
Orchids for Amateurs:
Containing Descriptions of Orchids suited to the requirements of the Amateur, ith
full Instructions for their successful Cultivation. With numerous beautiful lustra-
tions. By JAMES BRITTEN, F.L.S. (of the British Museum), and W.H.GOWER.

In cloth gilt, price 7s. 6d.; by post, 7s. 10d.
Ti.

Rose Growing for Amateurs:

Being Practical Instructions for the successful Culture of Roses, with selections
of the best varieties sdapted to the requirements of the Amateur in Town or
Country. By W.D.PRIOR. |

In paper, price 1s. 6d.; by post, 1s. 8d.

IV

Bulbs and Bulb Culture:

Being Descriptions, both historical and botanical, of the principal Bulbs and
Bulbous Plants grown in this country, and their chief Varieties; with full and
practical instructions for their successful Cultivation, both in and out of doors.
Illustrated. By D.T. FISH.
Vol. L., in cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d.; by post, 2s. 9d.
May also be had in parts as follow:

nats 1, Snowdrops, Bulbocodiums, Sternbergias, Crocus, Colchicums, Tulips, and

yacinths.

Part Il, Anemones, Narcissus, Lilies.

paper, price 1s, each; by post ls. 1d.

Vv.
Vine Culture for Amateurs:

Being Plain Directions for the successful growing of Grapes, with the means and
appliances usually at the command of amateurs. Illustrated. By W. J. MAY
(Author of “* Greenhouse Management for Amateurs,” & ).

In paper, price 1s.; by post, 1s. 1d.

VI.
Pruning, Grafting, and Budding Fruit Trees:

Illustrated with’ ninety-three Diagrams. By D. T. FISH.
In paper, price Is., by post, 1s, 1d.
Practical Handbooks Practical Guides to Gardening (continued).

VII.

Villa Gardening:

Being plain instructions for the proper Laying-out. Planting and Management
of Small Gardens; with lists of Trees, Shrubs, and Plants most suitable, and
thirteen Designs for small gardens. By W.J. MAY.

Cheap edition, in paper, price 1s.; by post, 1s. 1d.

VOI.

Rose Budding:

Containing full Instructions for the successful performance of this interesting
operation, Tlustrated. By D. T. FISH.
In paper, price 6d.; by post, 7d.

IN THE PRESS.

The Apricot:

Its History, Varieties, and Cultivation.

Arboriculture for Amateurs:

Being Instructions for the Planting and Cultivation of Trees for Ornament
or Use, and selections and descriptions of those suited to special requirements as to
Soil, Situation, &. By WILLIAM H. ABLETYr,

Greenhouse Management for Amateurs:

Descriptions of the best Greenhouses and Frames, with Instructions for Building
them; Particulars of the various Methods of Heating; lists of the most suitable
plants, with general and special cultural directions; and_all necess: information
tor the Guidance of the Amateur. Illustrated. By W. J. MAY, Author of “Villa
Gardening,” “ Vine Culture for Amateurs,” &c.

SPORTS AND PASTIMES.

I.
Bicyclist’s Pocket Book and Diary, 1879:

For Reference and Registration. Full of facts and forms of interest to Bicyclists,
Contents: Bicycle Chart, with particulars of over 200 machines; Best known
Amateur Performaness; Bugle Calls: Attention, Assembly and Prepare to Mount,
Mount, Dismount, Form Single File. Form Twos, Dinner Call, Bugle Marches;
Calendar for 1879, with the Principal Events of Past Seesors; Cash Memoranda;
Clubs, London and Provincial ; Diaries : Cash, Fngagements, Performances, Runs;
List of Towrs, with Inns and_ Distances in Miles from London; Monthly Review
of 1878; Papers referring to Bicycling ; Practical Bicycling Advice: Its Valve as
an Exercise, Choice of a Machine, Joining a Club, On Touring, On the Road,
General Meetings, Things tr be rewembered, On Maps and Day Runs, Metropolitan
Law affecting Bicycles and Riders; Racing Memoranda: The Amateur Champions
ot 1878, Oxford and Cambridge Annual Bicycle Contest, Times of Scratch Men
worth noting, Probable open Amateur Events, Bicycle Races of 1878; Railway
Charges for Carriage of Bicycles; Register of Performances.
Prices: morocco, 8s. 6d.; roan, 2s, 6d.; postage, 2d.

II

Bicycles of the Year, 1878-79 :

Being a Chronicle of the New Inventions and Improvements introduced each
Searon, and forming a Permarert Record of the progress in the manufacture of
Bicycles; Desigred also to assist intending purchasers in the choice of a machine.
Illustrated, By HARRY HEWITT GRIFFIN.

In paper, price 6d.; by post, 74d.

 
Practical Handbooks.—Sports and Pastimes (continued).

III.
Practical Fisherman :

Dealing with the Natural History, the Legendary Lore, and the Capture of
British Freshwater Fish. Illustrated.
In paper, in parts, price 6d. each; by post, 64d.

IV.
Camp Life on the Weser:

Being a graphic account of an autumn boating trip on the Weser; pointing out
where may still be had, within easy distance of London, healthful recreation,
combined with lovely scenery and old-world prices, without contact with e
ubiquitous excursionist. By HARkKY TOMLINSON and JAMES POWELL.

Illustrated.
In cloth gilt, price 28.6d.; by post, 2s. 7d.

Vv.
Country Pocket Book and Diary, 1879:

For Reference and Registration. Full of facts and forms of the greatest value
and interest to Country gentlemen and sportsmen. Contents: Diaries—Engage-
ments, Exhibitor’s, Fishing, Shooting, Cricketing, Athletics, Bicycling, Football,
Breeder’s, Hunting, Cash; Calendar; Post Office Charges; Close Time for Trout
and Chard in England and Wales; Weight of Trout; Tolls on the Thames ; Sizes of
Thames Fish that may be Killed; Rainfall; Amateur Aquatic Championship;
Bank Holidays; Quarter Days; Law Sittings and Terms; Eclipses; Phases of the
Moon; Close Time for Wild Birds; Oxford and Cambridge Boat Races; Swimming
Amateur Chawpionship; Railway Carriage of Boats; Dog Licences; Game
Licences; Gun Licences; Close Time for Game; Winners of the Derby: Geptl+-
men v. Players; Winners of the Oaks; Close ‘Time for Salmon in England and
Wales; Size of Lea Fish that may be Killed; Close Time for Fixed Engines for
Eels ; Close Time for Oysters; Winners of the St. Leger; Winners of the Ascot
Gold Cup; Oxford and Cambridge Cricket; Eton v. Harrow; Close Time for Sea
Birds; Winners of the 2000 Guineas; Inspectors of Salmon Fishing; Newspapers
relating to Sport; Football Association Challenge Cup; Papers devoted to Speciel
Branches of Sport; Magazines and Annuals relating to Sport; Inter-Hospital
Football Challenge Cup; North vy. South Football; Oxford University Terms;
Close Time for the Thames; Cambridge University Terms; Close Time for Wild-
‘owl; Close Time for Salmon in Scotland; Poultry and Pigeon Clubs; Fire
Insurance; Barometrical Readings; Railway Carriage of Dogs; Dog Clubs; Salmon
Fisheries’ commissioners, Scotland; Inspectors of Fisheries in Ireland; Periods of
Gestation; Periods of Incubation; Close Time for Rivers and Broads of Norfolk
and Suffolk ; Acts of Parliament relating to Sports and Rural Pursuits; Locks on
the Thames. and their distances from London and Oxford, and from each other;
High Water Variation in the Thames; Weather Forecasts; Thermometric Scales:
Close Time for Salmon and Trout in Ireland; Coming Events; Goodwood Cup
Winners; Winners of Waterloo Cup; Railway Carriage of Bicycles ; Remarkable
Performances; Winners of the Grand Prix de Paris; Liverpool Cup Winners;
English, Scotch, and Irish Miles; English, Scotch, and Jrish Acres; Winners
Middle Park Plate; Thames Fishermen: Close Time for Coartre Fish; Australian
Cricketers in England ; Parliamentary Papers and Reports on Subjects affecting
Country Gentlemen and Sportsmen; Acts of Parliament of last Session; Notable
Events; High Water at London Bridge.
Prices: In Russia leather, 5s. 6d.; morocco, 4s. 6d.; roan, 8s. 6d.; postage, 2d.

 

VI.
Practical Photography :
Being the Science and_Art of Photography, Developed for Amateurs and
Beginners. Illustrated. By O. E. WHEELER.
Part I.—Wet Collodion Process.
In paper, price 1s.; by post, 1s. 2d.

VII

The Photographer’s Pocket Book:

Containing Register for nearly 1000 Negatives, Compiled by O. E. WHEELER,
author of “ Practical Photography.”
Prices: In cloth, 3s. ; in leather 8s. 6d.; by post, 2d. extra.

VIII.

Photographer’s Pocket Book Almanac:

Containing Monthly Calendar for noting state of weather and amount of work

done; Existing State of Photographic Progress; Hints to Landscape Photo.

graphers ; Photographic Societies ; Every-day ‘ormulse ; Formu’e for Dry Plates, &c
Price, in paper, 6d.; by post 64d.
Practical Handbooks.—Sports and Pastimes (continued).

Leather Work Book:

Containing Full Instructions for Making and Ornamentirg articles so as to
successfully imitate Carved Oak; speci written for the use of Amateurs. By
OSA BAUGHAN, Illustrated.
In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d.; by post, 2s. 9d.

xX.

Cards and Card Tricks:

Containing a brief History of Playing Cards: Full Instructions, with Illustrated

ands, for playing nearly all known games of chance or ekill, and directions for

performing a number of amusing Tricks. Illustrated. By H. K&. HEATHER.
In eloth gilt, price 5s.; by post, 5s. 4d.

XI.
Sleight of Hand: -

Being Minute Instructions by the Aid of which, with Proper practice, the Neatest
and most Intricate Tricks of Legerdemain can be successfully performed. Llus-
trated. By EDWIN SACHS.

In cloth gilt, price, 5s.; by post, 5s. 4d.

XI.
Artistic Amusements:

Being Instructions for a variety of Art Work for Home Emp)oyment, and Sugges-
tions for a number of Novel and Saleable Articles for Fancy Bazaars. [llustrated.
Contents: Colouring Photographs, Imitation Stained Glass, Decalcomanie, Queen
Shell Work, Painting on China, Japanese Lacquer Work, Stenciling, Painting
Magic Lantern Slides, Menu and Guest Cards, Spatter Work, Picture and Scrap
Screens, Frosted Silver Work, Picture Cleaning and Restoring, Illuminating and
Symbolical Colouring. i
In cloth gilt, price 2s.6d.; by post, 2s. 8d.

$$ ron o- — — --

MISCELLANEOUS.

I.
English Pottery and Porcelain:
‘A Manual for Collectors. Being a Concise Account of the Devalop nent of the
Potter's Art in England Profuse’y Illnstrated with Marks, Monograms, and
Engravings of characteristic Specimens, N-:w Edition.
In cloth gilt, price 3s. 6d.; by post, 3s. 8d.

II

English, Scotch, and Irish Coins :

‘A Manual for Collectors; being a History and Description of tha Coinsge of
Great Britain, from the Earliest Ages to the Present Time, with Tables of
Approximate Values of Good Specimens. Profusely Illustrated.

In cloth gilt, price 5s.; by post, 53. 4d.

Ii.

Value of British Coins:

A Manual for Buyers, Sellers, and Exchangers, as giving the Approximate
of good Specimens of Eng'ish and Scotch Coins.
In paper, price 1s.; by post, le. 1d.
Practical Handbooks.—Miscellaneous (continued ).

I

Vv.
Character Indicated by Handwriting :

With Illustrations in support of the Theories advanced, taken from Autograph
Letters of Statesmen, Lawyers Soldiers, Ecclesiastics, Authors, Poets, Musicians,
Actors, and other_persons. By R, BAUGHAN.

In cloth gilt, price 2s. 6d.; by post 2s. 9d.

Vv.
Seaside Watering Places:

Being a Guide to Persons in Search of a Suitable Place in which to Spend their
Holhdays, on the English and Welsh Coasts, New and Revised Edition, with
Descriptions of over 130 Places.
In paper, price 2s. ; by post, 2s. 8d.
VI.
&
Stock and Share Investments :

Being Explanations for the General Reader of the Nature and Quality of the
gi erene Aneeees of Securities dealt in on the Stock Exchange. By ALBERT

In paper, price 1s.; by post, 1s. 1d.
VIL.
Church Festival Decorations:

Comprising Directions and Designs for the Suitable Decoration of Churches for
Christmas, Easter, Whitsuntide, and Harvest. Illustrated.
In paper, price 1s.; by post, 1s. 1d.
VIII.
Artistic Flower Decorations :

For Ball Rooms, Halls, Passages, Dinner and Supper Tables ; with Directions for
making Bouquets, Buttonholes, Hair Sprays, &c Illustrated. By B.C. SAWARD.
in paper, price 28.; by post, 2s, 2d.

IX.
Honiton Lace Book:

Containing Full and Practical Instructions for Making Honiton Lace. With
Illustrations,
In cloth gilt, price 8s. 64.; by post, 8s. 9d.
ae
Hints to Untrained Teachers :

Being Directions and Suggestions for the Assistance of Parents and others engaged
in Home Education, By JANE ASCHAM.

In paper, price 6d.; by post 7d.
IN THE PRESS,
Practical Dressmaking :

Being Plain Directions for Taking Patterns, Fitting on, Cutting out, Making up,
and Trimming Ladies’ and Children’s Dresses, By R. MUNROE.
THE COUNTRY,

A JOURNAL OF RURAL PURSUITS.

di Pare
The Cheapest and Best Paper for Country Gentlemen.

tnd Pete

PUBLISHED EVERY SATURDAY, PRICE THREEPENCE.
A SPECIMEN COPY FOR THREE STAMPS.
Quarterly Subscription, post free, 3s. 9d., prepaid.

 

“Like all grand conceptions, the process is remarkable for its simplicity.’ —

Ghe Bayar,
@he Gprhange anh Mart,

AND JOURNAL OF THE HOUSEHOLD.

ILLUSTRATED.
PUBLISHED EVERY WEDNESDAY AND SATURDAY. PRICE 2d.

TERMS OF SUBSCRIPTION.
One issue weekly: Quarterly, 2s. 8d.; Hailf-yearly, 5s. 4d.; Yearly, 10s. 8d.
Two issues weekly : Quarterly, 5s. 4d. ; Half-yearly, 10s. 8d. ; Yearly, 21s. 4d.

Gut Paper Patterns.

To meet the demand for good and fashionable patterns of
ladies’ and children’s garments at reasonable prices, there is
issued in connection with THe Bazaar a series of high-
class patterns, each one of which has been specially designed
and prepared for that paper, and ladies are invited to inspect
the list before making other arrangements. This list is added
to week by week, so that it contains the newest and most
seasonable fashions. The list may be seen and orders given
at the Local Agent’s.

 

LONDON OFFICE: 170, STRAND, W.C.
Gentlemen wishing to Purchase or Exchange Machines are invited
to pay the

GREAT WESTERN

BICYCLE WORKS

a visit of inspection, where they will have an opportuuity of seeing a
large variety of makes and sizes ranging from £7 10s. and upwards,
and the Proprietors will be happy to give advice as to the suitability of
machines for purchasers’ requirements.

THE BICYCLES, TRICYCLES, &c.,

in stock are guaranteed to be of the Best Material and Workmanship,
and comprise Machines of the Best Makers, and also the latest
Improvements.

A TABULATED PRICE LIST POST FREE.

Photo of any machine, 3 stamps.

A NUMBER OF SOILED & SECONDHAND MACHINES ALWAYS IN STOCK.

Terms: 5 per cent. Discount for Cash, or
BICYCLES ARE SOLD ON

Wey: Nba Je ee ee ee ea
FULL PARTICULARS ON APPLICATION.
SPECIAL TERMS TO SHIPPERS AND CLUBS.

REPAIRS are done on the premises by competent workmen, at a
moderate charge, quickly and well.

RIDING TAUGHT

by experienced instructors, and great care is taken to render pupils
quickly proficient, without allowing them to have unnecessary falls.

TERMS 2s. PER LESSON OF ONE HOUR.
Free to Purchasers.

Bicycle Sundries of every description. Low prices and good value.

CROOKE AND CoO.,
2, Praed Street, London, W.
Cornell University Library

SF 523.C523
Practical bee-keeping:being plain instru

  

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