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3ULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA,
No. 10.
BIOLOGICAL SERIES No. 3.
A Biological Reconnoissance
FLATHBRAD LAKK
n
MORTON 3 BLROD.
Professor of Biology, University of Montana, Director University of Montana Biological Station,
President Montana Academy of Sciences, Arts and Letters.
Prepared at the
T)NIVERSITY OF MONTANA BIOLOGICAL STATION,
Bicrork, Mont,
University of Montana, Missoula, Mont., U.S. A.
1902. 4
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Bul. Univ. of Mont., Biol. Series No. 3.
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BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA,
No. 10.
BIOLOGICAL SERIES No. 3.
A Biological Reconnoissance
IN THE VICINITY OF
PLATHBRAD LAKBR
BY
MORTON J. ELROD.
Professor of Biology, University of Montana, Director University of Montana Biological Station,
President Montana Academy of Sciences, Arts and Letters.
Prepared at the
UNIversITy oF MonTANA BIOLOGICAL STATION,
Bicrork, Mont,
University of Montana, Missoula, Mont., U.S. A.
1902.
+
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 91
Introduction.
The material presented in this bulletin represents the work of four
seasons in the region under discussion. The bulletin is not intended as
a dissertation on a technical subject. The notes presented are given with
the idea (1) of describing a region in which considerable work has been
dene, and in which more will be done; and (2) to indicate to future
collectors in the state regions where collecting may be carried on to
advantage, and some of the finds to be expected.
The material collected is being worked over as rapidly as time will per-
mit, and in due time technical papers will be presented. Nearly 1,500
shells of the species Pyramidula strigosa have been gathered, from alti-
tudes ranging from 2,300 feet to 8,900 feet. This gives an excellent series
for studying variation. This work is being conducted in the laboratory at
the University. A series of about 1,300 butterflies has been taken, most
of which have been expanded. Many moths have also been secured.
Large collections of Odonata have been secured, and as soon as the east-
ern part of the state is more fully covered this group of insects will be
taken up, a treatise on those in the western part being now in manuscript.
The botanical collections number thousands of specimens, and when the
work of identification and labelling is completed the University will have a
very creditable collection of the plants of the state. The collection em-
braces specimens from varying altitudes up to 10,000 feet, and from locali-
ties heretofore unexplored. Included among these is a large series of
lichens.
A large collection of entomostraca has been made, during the several
seasons, and from many bodies of water. A portion of the material has
been worked over and the remainder is now being examined.
The accompanying illustrations were all taken by members of the
station staff or those attending the station. Due credit is given for each.
Some of the cuts have appeared elsewhere, for which acknowledgement
has been made in the proper place.
The bulletin will place on permanent record much information which
is important, and which in a few years would be lost or very difficult to
secure.
Bulletin No. 1 of this series, “Summer Birds of Flathead Lake,” by
P. M. Silloway, is out of print; the large edition having been exhausted
a short time after its publication.
The author takes this public manner of expressing his high apprecia-
tion of the very cordial support given by those who have accompanied
him on collecting trips and assisted in the work at the Station at Flat-
head lake. The recollection of smoldering campfires in many wild
places, with sleeping bags containing tired but happy naturalists, working
92 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
without compensation for the sake of knowing, is a fond memory. It is
on such occasions that enduring friendships are formed, the ties of bro-
therly love firmly bound, and the great and unknown field in a new coun-
try opened to view. The cheerful and happy dispositions manifested
on trying occasions, when rain, or snow, or hunger, or fatigue was most
severe, are characteristic of that great body of men who care neither for
labor nor fatigue if there is added something to the sum total of human
knowledge.
It is a pleasure to note that much of the work represented by this
publication has been accomplished through funds contributed by friends.
To the many who have aided in the work by contributions sincere thanks
are tendered. Weare under special obligation to Senator Wm. A. Clark,
who has rendered great service by generous contributions on many occa-
sions.
THE AUTHOR.
University of Montana, Missoula, Montana, September 14, 1902.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 93
Establishment of the University of Montana
Biological Station.
The organization of the University of Montana Biological Station was
effected in the spring of 1899. The State of Montana contains several
lakes of larger size, and many smaller ones. Very little work has been
done on any of these lakes, that of Forbes on Flathead and Swan, as given
later, being all that is known. Little systematic study of birds, flowers,
insects, shells, or kindred topics, has been made save the collections from
expeditions which have been taken to the institutions of the east for study.
While there have been many expeditions to Montana and the Northwest
Territory, and while large quantities of material have been taken from
the state and incorporated in reports, there nevertheless has been little
systematic study of particular groups by residents of the state.
Early in the spring of 1899 a trip was made to Flathead lake for the
purpose of selecting a site for the station which would meet the de-
mands for work. Through the kindness of Mr. HE. L. Sliter the launch
“Undine” was placed at the disposal of the writer, and almost the entire
shore of the lake was examined.
The site chosen is on the main road to Kalispell, which is 18 miles diss
tant by wagon road, and nearly double that by water. The steamboat
running between Kalispell and the foot of the lake will stop to let off and
take on passengers. The launch “Undine,” the property of the Kalispell
Club, is also moored here. It is a pleasure resort of considerable promi-
nence. The hotel at Bigfork gives accommodations to those who do not
wish to live in tents. The mouth of the river makes an excellent harbor
for small boats, which is a very important item on so peculiar a body of
water as Flathead lake, where the waves may rise high in a few minute3.
A small field laboratory was erected on the banks of Swan river, a short
distance from the lake. A few rods from the laboratory a bridge gives
communication with the opposite side of the river. Immediately above
the bridge a series of rapids offers excellent sport for the fisherman, as
well as exceptional field for the photographer. The country in the im-
mediate neighborhood is well timbered. To the north the country is
well tilled, fine fields of grain and good orchards making a splendid show.
ing in the fertile valley. Two and a half miles to the west the Flathead
river enters the lake, its mouth being marked by a well defined delta
with sand banks and shoals, a great shelter for birds during the migrat-
ing season.
The laboratory is a wooden structure with suitable accommodations
for summer outdoor work. There is table room for twelve students.
The site is excellent for camping. A large spring enters the river from
the bank immediately below the laboratory.
94 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
A mile and a half from the laboratory along the road south is Daphnia
pond, covering some fifteen or twenty acres. A description of this pond
is given later. About the same distance farther is Estey’s pond, cover-
ing a little less space, but fully as interesting. It is eight miles by the
nearest road to Swan lake. This lake is the expansion of Swan river, and
lies in the glaciated valley between the Swan and Mission ranges. The
lake is about 12 miles long, perhaps a half mile to a mile wide. A few
miles to the northeast is Echo lake. Near it is Rost lake. Along the
banks of Flathead lake on either side may be found numerous ponds and
small lakes; others are reported to be in existence, but have not yet been
studied or examined. The northern part of the state is well dotted with
lakes which await study.
The Lewis and Clarke Forest Reserve extends to within a few miles
of the station, and offers exceptional opportunities to study forest influ-
ences and subjects relating to forestry.
A few miles eastward and the Swan range of the Kootenais is reached.
This range has several peaks nearly 10,000 feet in hight, with dozens of
alpine lakes, rock ridges, snow slopes, and other collecting places. The
Mission range is immediately south of the station, ending as a range at
Swanriver. The range makes the eastern bank of Flathead lake, is well
timbered, and rises higher toward the southern end, where the peaks reach
nearly 10,000 feet.
The preliminary work of the Station naturally falls within the coun-
try immediately near the laboratory, and in the Mission mountains and
the Mission valley. This territory lies between Missoula, where the Uni-
versity is located, and the laboratory. In the fall of 1897 a collecting
trip of three weeks was taken to the Flathead Reservation. This was
the first collecting expedition from the University, and resulted in a large
supply of material in various lines.
In 1899, during the month of August, the first work of the Station was
begun. During this month considerable time was spent on the lake,
making soundings and gathering microscopic forms from the water.
These are incorporated in a paper presented to the American Microscop-.
ical Society.
In 1900 two months were devoted to the work of the Station. The
month of July was spent in the Mission mountains and in the Mission
valley gathering material, the month of August being spent at the Station.
In 1901 a party outfitted at Missoula, and started for the field June 13,
continuing the work of collecting and studying either in the field or at the
laboratory until August 21, when the party returned to Missoula.
The party consisted of Dr. D. T. MacDougal, of the New York Botanic:
al Garden, making collections in botany; Wilson P. Harris, of Brooklyn,
N. Y., collecting lichens; Maurice Ricker, Burlington, Iowa, High School,
collecting entomostraca; P. M. Silloway, Fergus County, Mont., High
School, studying birds, and the writer.
Collections were made in the Mission mountains. Several peaks were
ascended, and McDonald and Sinyaleamin lakes, which had been visited
the previous year, were again visited for comparison of records. Tha
party moved slowly up the east side of Flathead Lake, making occasional
excursions into the Mission range.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 95
After reaching the station and depositing a large proportion of the
luggage a trip was taken to the foot of the Swan Range eastward. Rost
lake and Echo lake were partially studied. Several excursions were made
into the range, with packs on backs, and many peaks ascended.
In August, Dr. H. C. Cowles, from the University of Chicago, with a
party of nineteen students, spent ten days at the laboratory. The entire
party, with many others, made the ascent of the Swan range in safety,
returning laden with specimens. More detailed information relative to
these mountains and their lakes is given later.
During the summers of 1900 and 1901, Prin. P. M. Silloway, of the
Fergus County High School, spent the months of June, July, and August
in the study of the birds. The nesting birds near the laboratory were mada
a special study, and a good series of nests and eggs secured, notwith-
standing the weather was very bad most of the time. The results of
the work are embodied in the bulletin from the Station (21). He also
made extensive studies of the birds in the Mission range and
in the Mission valley on the west of the range. During this time a
large series of skins was secured, now deposited in the museum of the
University, and a large amount of data collected relative to the birds of
the state. This gave excellent opportunity for studying those birds
which make the state their summer residence. , As a matter of fact there
were less than a half dozen birds noted which apparently came from the
north on their autumnal migration.
L. A. Youtz, of Columbia, devoted two months of the summer of 1900
exclusively to the study of the entomostraca of the lakes and rivers in the
western part of the state, so far as the travels during the summer per-
mitted. His observations extend to the waters of Sinyaleamin lake,
McDonald lake, the ponds and creeks in the Mission valley, Flathead
lake from one end to the other, Flathead river, Swan river, Daphnia and
Estey’s ponds, and to this was added the material from Swan lake after
he left the. party.
During the following summer the work was continued by the writer,
assisted by Maurice Ricker, of the Burlington, Iowa, High School. The
same lakes and rivers were visited, as also Echo lake, Rost lake, Siloway
lake, Placid lake, Trail lake, and other smaller bodies and streams of
water.
In 1902 work at the Station was continued during July and August.
Mr. Harry N. Whitford, with a party of botanists from the University of
Chicago, carried on studies in forestry. Large collections of plants were
made, forestry conditions carefully considered, and a large series of pho-
tographic negatives made. Prin. P. M. Silloway spent the month of June
at Swan lake, and July at the Station. He secured much information ad-
ditional to that given in his bulletin “Summer Birds of Flathead Lake,”
which will be incorporated in a supplementary report. The work of col-
lecting entomostraca from the lake was continued by Mr. Maurice Ricker,
of Burlington, Iowa, and the writer.
96 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
Special Studies.
Among the other groups special study was made on shells and dragon-
flies. Shells in the State of Montana are relatively scarce. Few reports
have been made on shells taken from this region. The only list so far
available is the one given in Nautilus, Vol. VIII, p. 63, giving a list of 42
species from the Missouri river. The material from the western side of
the range lists 21 species. The conditions in the State of Montana are
not favorable to the growth of shells. The rivers are rapid, with scarc-
ity of food, and with little lime. The lakes contain clear cold water,
are usually deep, with few swampy places, and with rocky shores and
bottoms. The marshy stagnant portions of the lakes are usually small,
and liable to dry up in summer. The mountain sides in summer become
dry and parched, except in protected portions and along streams. Great
stretches of plain are without moisture for a portion of the year, and
almost every living thing that cannot move to the water courses is killed.
The days in summer are hot, the nights cool. The air is dry and evapor-
ation is rapid. As a result of the above conditions we may expect great
variation of species in adjacent regions, where the barriers may be sufii-
cient to cut off all communication between the regions. It is hoped by
making extensive collections of land and fresh water shells to secure
sufficient material to throw some light on the geology of the region, which
now offers many difficult and complex questions. One new species has
been discovered, and the first living specimens secured. Another has
been found at an altitude of 9,000 feet. In the report of the work on the
lakes following information is given regarding the limited number of spe-
cies found in each.
The work on Odonata has been prosecuted with more or less vigor
during the past four years, besides material taken at different portions
previous to that time. The result is the discovery of about fifty species
in the state, which is not a large showing. The same conditions making
it difficult for shells to grow in the waters of the state will apply to drag-
onflies. The young live in water, which must not be swift nor too
clear, but must offer sufficient animal food to keep the larvae alive, must
be stagnant enough to support life of such slow and uncouth water dwellers
and must offer them suitable hiding places to keep out of the sight and
reach of enemies. Such places are not common. In Illinois the writer was
accustomed to visiting the ponds around town, taking as many as 25 spe-
cies in a single afternoon. In Montana a hard and long day’s work has
resulted in but six species, and not many specimens of these. From this
it will be seen that dragonfly collecting in the state is not only difficult,
and the results meager in amount of material, but from what has been
said there is a possibility of securing many new and interesting things.
During the three seasons of collecting in the western part of the state
large numbers of botanical specimens have been secured, which are de-
posited in the herbarium of the University, and await study.
It will now be helpful to the reader to give some information
concerning the region under discussion, which will convey a better idea
of the country than has heretofore been given.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 9T
The Mission Mountains.
The Mission range is famiiiar to all old-timers of the State of Mon-
tana. Its snow-clad peaks appear suddenly before the eye as the traveler
reaches the crest of the hill above Selish, the railroad station on the
Northern Pacific where the traveler leaves the train and takes the stage
for the mountains, Flathead lake, or Kalispell. The first view is one of
grand comparisons, with the broad and beautiful valley in the foreground,
the majestic peaks of the Mission range behind, while in the direction
opposite rise the rugged Cabinets, the abrupt and pointed Squaw peak
being the most conspicuous.
No one can see the Mission range without bursting into exclamations
of surprise and admiration. A view is given in Plate XIX. The high,
snow-capped, jagged peaks, rising abruptly from the valley, usually shad-
owed by clouds whose lower strata obscure the higher peaks, offer such
decided contrast to the level valley that the comparison is very notice-
able.
The range is about 75 miles long, the higher peaks being on the south-
ernend. The range slopes gradually down to a lower altitude northward,
finally ending as a range at the Swan or Bigfork river.
Very few of the peaks in the range have received names, though most’
of them are large enough and of sufficient importance to be named. Mc-
Donald peak is the only one with a name recognized as belonging to a
definite height. McLeod peak is a well established peak on the south-
ern end of the range, and has been one of the points used in triangulation
by the United States Geological Survey for many years. McLeod peak is
south of the Jocko river. Big peak is another name given to one of the
heights opposite the peninsula at Flathead lake. But the particular
height to which the name is applicable is not definitely established.
Aside from these three, and a fourth on the map a little north of Mc-
Donald and called Teton, none of the peaks in the range have names.
Since the work in this region was undertaken the necessity for naming
many of the peaks, lakes, and points of interest has become apparent, and
some suggestions have been made.
Mention was made of the fact that the Mission range was cut in
twain by the Jocko river. Immediately north of the river is a high point,
very conspicuous, and without a name. The name suggested for this is
Sinyaleamin, an Indian name meaning “surrounded.” Years ago the
Flathead and Blackfeet Indians had a fight on the banks of the creek
having its source in this mountain, with the result that the Blackfeet
were surrounded and exterminated. The Indians made reference to this
in naming the creek “Sinyaleamin,” afterwards changed to Mission. As
the mountain mentioned had up to this time no name the name Sin-
yaleamin has been given toit. Plate XX gives a view of this mountain.
It is also seen on the right in Plate XIX. East of Sinyaleamin, and ap-
98 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
parently a part of the same range, are the well known Jocko peaks, shown
in the illustration from the mountain summit, Plate XXI.
The range extends almost due north and south, the meridian 387 pass-
ing along the western base of the range. The 46th and 47 parallel
degrees approximately mark the southern and northern ends, though a
large bend extends toward the east in the southern end of the range.
The drainage from the western side is across the Flathead Reserva-
tion, through several creeks, into the Pend d’Oreille river, and into
Clarke’s Fork of the Columbia. The drainage from the eastern side is
into the Swan river, north around the range into Flathead lake, and out
through the Pend d’Oreille river as before. From the southern end the
waters are carried by the Jocko river into the Pend d’Oreille river. A
portion of the eastern slope of Sinyaleamin mountain, as also the east-
ern slopes of the Jocko peaks, drains into the Clearwater river, thence
into the Big Blackfoot; from this into the Missoula, and finally into
Clarke’s Fork of the Columbia. It is thus seen that the entire drainage
of the range is into the same stream, though by very different routes,
and over distances of varying lengths.
SINYALEAMIN LAKE.
The first place in the range at which work of consequence was un-
dertaken was at Sinyaleamin lake. See plates XXII and XXIII. As has
been stated, this little alpine lake is at the southern base of Sinyaleamin
mountain. From the nature of the location of the lake the name is very
appropriate. Locally the lake is called St. Mary lake. As there is an-
other larger and more widely known St. Mary lake in the northern part
of the state in the Blackfeet reservation, the name Sinyaleamin lake is
most appropriate for this beautiful little sheet of water, and should be re-
tained.
St. Ignatius is about six miles from Selish, on the Northern Pacific
railroad. From St. Ignatius to Sinyaleamin lake the distance is given
as nine miles. The distance to the mouth of the canyon is nearly six
miles and the road up the winding canyon is about three miles. The road
across the valley is excellent. A mountain road has been constructed up
the canyon to the lake. This is passable in summer, is no doubt
good in winter, and with a little work could be made very good indeed,
save for a couple of steep hills. The road follows up the canyon carrying
the waters from Sinyaleamin lake. This stream joins the main stream
before it reaches the Mission. The waters from the branch stream ara
derived almost wholly from Sinyaleamin lake. The waters from the
main stream of the Mission creek come from the mountain peaks to tha
north of Sinyaleamin mountain, tumbling over a high fall which may be
seen miles away on the plain.
The lake is hemmed in on all sides by mountains, only a small flat
near the water affording a camping site. This camping site is on the top
of an old moraine which is well covered with small timber. If the tim-
ber was cleared away there would be a good-sized camping site in an
admirable location for scenery. Campers are continually widening the
small space by cutting down small trees for fuel and it is now a de.
lightful place for a camp for either outing or study.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 99
Our camp at this lake was from July 7 to July 18, 1900. The party
numbered 15 most of the time, and for a couple of days there were 23,
including a number of distinguished visitors. The weather was perfect,
not a thing to stop work for the entire time.
A second visit was made in June, 1901, a month earlier than in tha
preceding year. A large collection of plants was made and further notes
and collections of shells were taken. Dredgings were made for Ento-
mostraca in the lake and in the ponds to the south of the lake. As the
season was early there was much moisture. This made the material
collections more abundant but made the work more laborious.
On the north side of the lake the mountain rises abruptly to a height
recorded by our aneroid as 9,200 feet, probably 200 in excess of the true
height. On the summit abundance of snow could be seen. The lower
slopes are moderately wooded with small red fir, while the upper heights
are bare jagged rocks. On these a few white-bark pine have a foothold.
See Plate XXIV. On the east and south of the lake the summits are lower,
sloping gradually to the south and then to the west where the ridge des»
cends almost to the level of the waters of the lake. The mountain sides
in this direction are densely wooded with small trees. The western end
of the lake is the only part with what might be termed open country.
Here the lake is dammed by a moraine which is now covered with small
trees and other vegetation. This moraine extends across the ravine, which
is here about a quarter of a mile in width, and down stream for nearly a
mile, as nearly as could be determined. The present outlet is at the south-
ern end of the moraine. There are indications that the outlet was formerly
at the other end of the moraine, next the mountain side proper. From in-
dications it would appear that the lake was formerly larger than at pres-
ent, when the waters were dammed up, overflowing what is now the
good camping place, and for some distance beyond. On the moraine tha
vegetation is different from that at other places, indicating that the period
when the waters covered this part of the moraine is not so very far back
in time. The time that has elapsed since the outbreak at the present
outlet has not been great. When the lake occupied this addition it was
larger, and perhaps forty or fifty feet deeper. When the water first
started at the present outlet the cutting was rapid, as shown by the
abrupt and narrow declivity at the outlet, and resulted in the present
lake level.
By damming up the present outlet the level of the lake could be raised
about fifty feet without overflowing the moraine.
The lake is about 7,500 feet long and 2,500 feet wide. The shapa
and outline are readily seen from the accompanying sketch. See Fig 1.
The length lies east and west. The lake is clear, cold, and deep. At 8
P.M., July 9, 1900, the temperature was 15 degrees Centrigrade. By
trials it was found that the white net used for collecting entomostraca
could just be seen at a depth of 30 feet. The dark rocks on the bottom
could be seen only at much less depth than this.
The banks of the lake are precipitous, no shoals or rocks being found.
The largest shallow place is on the western end of the southern side
where a small shallow place some 300 feet long by 50 feet wide slopes
100 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
Sin~yale-~a~mum
L.ake
/ 1,
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iN
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ENS
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AO YS.
ae Z
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lV[eraime es
Diagram, showing shape of Sinyaleamin Lake
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 101
down from shore. At the upper end, around the inlet, there has been
some filling, but it has been slow. The depth a few hundred feet from
the inlet was 30 feet, but it shot down rapidly to 115 feet, and finally to
250 feet, the deepest recorded. This depth was taken opposite the rocky
cliff toward the upper end, but a glance at the map of the lake will show
it is everywhere deep. But a few feet off shore near camp at the southern
end the depth taken was 165 feet.
There is but one inlet, at the upper end, draining the eastern slopes
of Sinyaleamin mountain and the Jocko peaks where there is abund-
ance of snow the year through. There are no small inlets save when
the snow is melting off the hills in the spring, but there must bea
little underground seepage, as there is considerable water on the
mountain sides high up that disappears before the stream reaches the
lake.
The stream forming the inlet comes through a canyon from the north,
Sinyaleamin mountain forming the western wall, one of the Jocko peaks
the eastern. Along this creek for a quarter of a mile or so there is a
rank growth of beautiful arbor-vitae trees, as shown in the illustration.
See Plate XXV. These continue until the canyon becomes so narrow there
is room only for the stream, which tumbles over a cascade several hun-
dred feet high, a portion of which is shown in Plate XXVI. This cascade
was followed for some distance and as far as could be seen or heard tha
cascade continued. Later, from the summit of the mountain, the direc-
tion and source of the stream was determined.
On account of the land locked position of the lake it is seldom disturb,
ed by storms, although some strong gusts blow in from the west. The
surface is usually calm and smooth, timber growing to the water’s edge;
making a beautiful reflection. It appeared from indications along
the shore that the surface of the water in the lake varied some three or
four feet, at the time of our visit being at its lowest. There is very little
drift in the lake. At the outlet there is quite a pile of old logs that have
come down, but they show evidences of long submergence in the water,
and are not in great quantity considering the timber around the lake.
The shores are free from drift.
Three ridges lead up from the base to the summit of the mountain,
all of comparatively easy ascent. The ascent of the mountain from
the lake, whose altitude is 3,800 feet, was made in a day, returning very
late at night. We almost failed making it though within sight and hearing
of the camp. This summit is really a long ridge, extending southeast and
northwest, culminating in two peaks, and joined to the remainder of the
range to the north by a low spur at the easternmost of the two peaks.
On the north the drainage is into the main branch of Mission creek. Tha
western peak drains into the stream below Sinyaleamin lake. The
drainage from the country to the eastward and soutaward, as shown in the
illustration, see Plate XXIII, is into Sinyaleamin lake.
On the 12th of July, 1900, the ascent of Sinyaleamin mountain was
made. The start was made before seven in the morning, three of us pre-
paring our loads for the ascent. The outfit consisted of a camera with
15 plates loaded, a rifle, a shotgun, a botany can, provisions for a day, and
102 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
necessary ammunition and material for saving specimens. Although it
was the middle of July the morning was quite cool. By keeping behind
the hill on the western ridge of the three we were in shadow for a good
portion of the distance. It was not until nearly at the limit of trees that
the sun’s rays began to be felt. The ascent to the timber line was devoid
of interest, save that at about 7,000 feet a mother bird with a brood of
chicks about three days old was flushed among the Xerophyllum through
which the ascent led. This grouse, known as Richardson’s grouse, seems
to be common to this range of mountains, and was taken on several differ-
ent occasions. It was a surprise to find the chicks so young. This proves
either that the bird had misfortune the first sitting and made a second
nest, or that the altitude retarded the nesting time. The size of the
birds discovered and their ability to escape at the age of a few days may
easily be conjectured. Two of these little fellows were captured
by hand, and proved to be the only birds secured on the trip.
Lunch was eaten at 7,800 feet, and the summit looked near, but the
ridge looked steep and rocky. We were ascending a “hog back,” a ridge
leading to the summit. It was narrow, in places no more than wide
enough to travel in single file, occasionally widening with small grassy
plots, in which flowers were growing in great profusion. On the summit
of the ridge, and occasionally in the crevices on the sides, a few white-bark
pines had a foothold. See Plate XXIV. Their trunks were gnarled and
twisted, with broken limbs and stunted branches, showing plainly the
great struggle they were enduring. The dead trees are light and dry,
burning with a great amount of smoke and much pitch, blackening every-
thing used about the fire for cooking to an unusual degree. The picture
given shows plainly the condition of the trees.
Insects are always scarce in high altitudes and flowers are always
brilliant. The slopes of Sinyaleamin mountain were no exception.
The zoologist may find some food for reflection in this. If insects have
been instrumental in developing color in flowers, as is concluded from
modern theories, this condition is to be expected. The few insects seen
were very busy, and had a wide field to work over and an abundance of
flowers to select from.
Luncheon over, and a supply of typical flowers having been gathered
and a few insects taken, the ascent was resumed.
Mountain climbing to some people is a pleasure, to others a drudgery.
Certain it is that few people enjoy climbing up among the timber and
over slippery grass, with nothing to see but the limbs of trees immedi-
ately ahead, the grass or rocks under foot, and occasionally a patch of
blue sky or a glimpse of a peak or a canyon. But when one finally ascends
to the rocks, where grass does not grow, where trees are few and stunted,
and where solid rocks are piled in stratified layers or tumbled in confu-
sion as the case may be, mountain climbing becomes to most people a
pleasure and a reality. When one can rest on solid rock for a moment
and before him see the peak in all its grandeur, to the right a mass of
snow with a stream of silver leading away, to the left a wall of rock 3,000
feet high, it is worth the effort needed to get to the position.
The interesting part of this climb was that one of the party was being
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 108.
initiated, never having climbed before to such a height or been in such a
trying place. The result was interesting both to himself and the others.
The sight was too much, and his nerves refused to stay under control. All
his will power was not sufficient to hold his muscles in control, and he
shook as with a palsy. Places that could be passed with a step were try-
ing and difficult, and often required minutes to get over. He reported it
seemed as though all the rocks were loose and ready to tumble down,
and to see him pick and try at rocks to see if they were stable was under
most circumstances really amusing. Under present conditions it was
trying. Needless to say the rocks were solid. It is sufficient to say.
that in such attempts either all reach the summit together, or all return
together without reaching it. The higher we ascended on the peak the
sharper the ridge became, and the steeper, and with this there was
greater trepidation on the part of the shaking member of our party.
Constant encouragement was necessary, and repeated lifts and boosts
were given. Although a man of mature years and of careful habits, or-
dinarily calm and deliberate, he reached a point where he had no confi-
dence in himself, and even refused to stand erect on places that were per.
fectly safe and with abundant room. All this was the result of the
effect of the crags, cliffs, waterfalls, and peaks on such an immense scale
that it was too much for the nervous makeup to stand, and there was a
collapse. When the collapse came it was quite complete, and lasted until
the foot of the mountain and camp were reached. Needless to.say the
result was to make the individual exceedingly weary. Long before the
others were tired he was almost overcome, though this was most notice-
able after the last cliff and crag were out of sight behind.
The last thousand feet of rocks were almost completely bare. But
at the altitude of about 8,500 feet, as indicated by the aneroid, we came
across a small shell among the rocks, on the summit of the ridge. This
little shell belongs to the Pyramidula, and is known as P. strigosa var.
alpina, and was found in considerable abundance. While the others
went on the conchologist devoted a quarter of an hour to the search, re-
sulting in securing some two or three dozen and several live ones. No
doubt many could have been found if search had been made, as they were
picked up occasionally almost to the summit. There was very little vege-
tation on which these shells could live, an occasional plant with a few
leaves and a stunted stem being seen here and there on the rocks. Aside
from this there was nothing to decay. The trees had long since been left
behind and there was nothing else alive visible, save the lichens.
These shells reveal a very interesting point in adaptation. A near
relative has been found on the high mountains in various portions of the
State of Montana. Pyramidula strigosa Gld., small variety, has been
taken on the sides of nearly all the high mountains in the western part
of the state. They have been collected at an altitude of from 8,000 to 9,000
feet in the Tobacco Root mountains in the eastern part of the state.
Pyramidula strigosa Gld., var. cooperi W. G. B., is found along the shores
of the lakes and along the damp banks of the streams. Apparently some
of the lower forms have ascended, becoming accustomed to altitudes above.
104 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
the lakes and rivers, and being able to live on the mountain sides during
the damp spring months, in summer disappearing from sight until the fol«
lowing spring. As the ascent was made and the struggle became fiercer
the size of the shells became reduced, this form being much smaller than
the variety cooperi. But still others ascended to higher realms and are
now found on the highest and bleakest of rocky slopes. This P. strigOsa
var. alpina is no doubt the result of this gradual ascent. In size it is
small, being really diminutive. The struggle is great. Food is scarce.
‘To support so large a body as the small form lower down, or the ordinary.
specimen at the lake or creek, is impossible. Consequently, there has
been a change in structure to accommodate the changed conditions, and
the shell is much reduced in size. The form, cooperi, has not been found
by the writer above 4,000 feet. The small variety is found from 5,000 feet
to 7,000 feet in the west, and higher in the east. The diminutive variety
has been taken on this occasion at an altitude of 8,500 feet and from that
nearly to the top. The same diminutive shell was later taken on Mc-
Donald peak at an altitude of 8,000 feet to 9,000 feet.
Plate XXVII will give the reader a better idea of the size and rela-
tionships of the shells before mentioned than can be obtained from a de-
scription.
The summit was reached at 4:15 in the afternoon. It was completely
bare of vegetation save for one little straggling specimen on the west-
ern edge, catching the rays of the sun, and not sufficiently far along in
growth to make a determination. The aneroid registered 9,150 feet. Al-
though the sky was cloudless a few pellets of snow came from some placa
and struck us in the face. At our feet was an immense snow drift on
which the camera was planted and which was covered with goat
tracks.
The sight was fine. No one can tell the glories, beauties, or de-
pict the awfulness of the view from one of the heights of the Mission
range. To the west is the twin peak of the one we have ascended, show-
ing beautifully the stratification, and the formation of the mountain. Be,
yond this peak the mountain drops almost abruptly to the plain. To the
north the range appears as one vast jumble of peaks and ridges, though
of course there is order in it all. Reference is made to the impression.
‘To the east the Jocko peaks rise abruptly from the snow fields, old snags
that appear incapable of being ascended. A view of these is given in
Plate XXI. Between Sinyaleamin and the Jocko peaks is a large gla-
ciated region, no doubt the former ice region supplying the material for
the moraine at Sinyaleamin lake, or the lakes toward the east. At the
foot of the old Jocko crag is a small lake, filled with slush snow and ice,
as viewed from our distance, and which has been christened Snow lake in
consequence. This Snow lake is in the drainage of Sinyaleamin lake,
the waters entering Snow lake, overflowing, passing down over the rapids
into Sinyaleamin lake, and on to Mission creek. To the south Mount
Lo Lo, in the Bitter Root range, may be seen 75 miles away. The Bitter
Root range, Cabinet and Swan ranges, the Mission range in the fore-
ground, the Kootenais and the Rockies, make a grand and beautiful pan-
orama. Thirty miles to the north may be seen Flathead lake, blue as the
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 105
sky above. ‘The Mission range shows up grandly. It is a magnificent
sight.
The descent was made along the ridge to the southeast, so as to
descend the middle ridge of the mountain instead of the western one.
The descent was begun at 5:35, and was devoid of interest save that the
trip was exceedingly difficult and tiresome. In an evil moment a ravine
was selected, which was followed for some time. in one respect this
was fortunate, as late in the evening a movement was seen in the bushes
ahead indicating a bear. The head man immediately dropped to his.
knees. A black patch about the size of a man’s hand was all that could
be seen, and instantly it was fired at. The surprise of the mountain
climbers was great to behold a monster porcupine roll over into the
ravine. He was big and heavy, and it was nearly 4,000 feet of a descent
to camp, and already getting dusk, owing to the fact that we were in the
ravine. Tying his legs together the beast was slung across the back of
one of the men, and the descent in earnest began. This was the largest
porcupine ever seen in the region. Indeed, porcupines in this section of
the state are scarce, and many an old timer has no recollection of ever
having seen one. When 2,500 above camp a scheme was resorted to
in an effort to arouse the camp which is worthy of mention, as it may be
used by any one in any locality. The idea belongs to Prin. Silloway, though
it may be commonly known. Taking a double-barrelled gun, opening the
breech, and blowing in the breech end as in a conch shell a noise is made
that is deep, heavy, and resonant, and may be heard a long distance.
The noise made on this occasion was clearly heard in camp a half mile
below, and much farther by the road we had to travel. Also, we could
hear their reply, though told afterwards that all had called together at the
top of their voices in order to make us hear. This blowing on the gun
barrel is the cheapest whistle a hunter can buy, and will carry the sound
farther than any on the market. Late that night, about ten o’clock, the
party arrived, tired and hungry, as is usual in the mountains, but well
paid for the trip.
ORNITHOLOGY AT SINYALEAMIN LAKE.
Animal life around the lake is interesting, but not abundant. The
ornithologists followed the birds from daylight until dark, which is most
of the time when the days are so long. The nesting season had apparently
closed, and not a single set of eggs was taken or seen.
While the list of birds seen at this lake includes 39 species which is a
fair number, there was no abundance of any species. Owing to the char-
acter of the banks traveling was difficult. The waters of the
lake harbored little food, and aquatic life was relatively scarce. In the
dense arbor-vitae woods at the head of the lake the carol of the winter
wren was frequently heard, while in the cascade the American dipper
boldly dashed back and forth in the spray. A pair of wandering loons
once rested over night on the lake. The American golden eye now and
then made appearance on the lake. Along the shores the spotted sandpiper
was not uncommon. In the woods Richardson’s grouse and ruffed grouse
were frequently flushed. A desert sparrow hawk, pursued by pine sis-
kins, was seen when high up on the mountain. The belted kingfisher
106 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
was common around the shores of the lake, and in the woods might be
seen woodpeckers of several species. Cabanis’s woodpecker was not
uncommon, Batchelder’s woodpecker was occasionally seen and heard,
one pair of red-naped sapsuckers was seen for a day, the lordly pileated
woodpecker made announcement of his presence by his loud call and hard
and slow pounding on the trees, while the red-shafted flicker was seen
and heard daily. At dusk the western night hawk occasionally was seen
in the air, while during the day, strange as it may seem, an occasional
humming bird was seeking food from the various flowers about the lake.
The sharp and far-away sounding call of the western wood pewee was
frequently heard on the hillside. Wright’s flycatcher was common in the
timber south of the lake. The black-headed jay was not uncommon, and
a single curious Rocky Mountain jay was one day seen lurking around
camp. Higher up on the mountain, above 4,700 feet, Clarke’s nutcracker
was found. In the woods adjacent to the lake the American crossbill
was common, and pine siskins were frequently noted in the air overhead
or occasionally were seen in camp having come for crumbs. Everywhere
on the reservation where observations were made the western chipping
sparrow was found. Around the lake Shufeldt’s junco is abundant. Black-
headed grosbeaks were not seen about the lake, but at the ponds a mile to
the south they were abundant. The brilliant Louisiana tanager was every-
where to be seen, while the handsome cedar waxwing was frequently no-
ticed at the pond with the grosbeaks. The red-eyed vireo, warbling vireo,
Audubon’s warbler, Townsend’s warbler, and Macgillivray’s warbler were
the insect feeders noted in the trees. The Rocky Mountain creeper was
only occasionally seen, though the slender-billed nuthatch is common.
Every walk brought to view the long-tailed chickadee. The notes of the
olive-backed thrush were regular features of the woods. A single pair
of western robins were feeding the young on the nest during the stay at
the lake.
The region seems to be a place of resort for birds, where they come
for a time and disappear, as is the case with the region as far as man 1s
concerned. Later investigations may reveal more.
CONCHOLOGY OF SINYALEAMIN LAKE,
One would expect to find an abundance of shells in and around such
a body of water as this lake. In this, as in many other points, there is
disappointment. These clear cold lakes do not offer a large supply of
food for such dainty feeders as shells and the supply is not abundant.
The small alpine form, Pyramidula strigosa, var. alpina, has been
previously referred to as having been found near the summit of the
mountain. In the woods along the borders of the lake the larger Pyra-
midula strigosa Gld., var. cooperi W. G. B., was taken rather abundantly.
With the preceding P. solitaria was found in less abundance.. Only a
few Polygyra townsendiana Lea, var. ptychophora A. D. Br., were taken.
These two have so far been found together, tue former most abundantly,
the latter much less so. These four land species were all that could be
found. In the water three more species were taken, all sparingly.
Physa heterostropha Say was not abundant, but several large and very
fine specimens were taken. Now and then Pianorbis trivolis was seen.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 107
Nearly an entire afternoon was spent at the outlet attempting to secure
a few of these two species, and the result was not very flattering. An Illi-
nois bog would produce a thousand for one. The most noticeable snail,
and the most difficult to secure, was Limnaea emarginata, a small variety.
The same species was found very abundantly in McDonald lake fifteen
miles further to the north, and is also in Swan lake across the range east.
In Sinyaleamin lake the shells are for the most part singly on stones in
the bottom where the water is shallow, or along the bank. They are
very light in color and very conspicuous. To secure them it is neces-
sary to take a boat, row slowly where the water is shallow, and when one
can be seen wait until the water becomes smooth and either pick it off
by hand if not too deep, or by some other method. As there is much
trouble to determine the depth of the water on such occasions the task be-
comes quite difficult, and the result is often a wetting. Our best suc-
cess was to take an insect net, and with this gently pull the shell off the
rock by inserting the net under the snail, thus letting the animal fall into
the net. Even this is slow work. The snails have the peculiar habit
of letting all holds go when anything touches them, falling to the bottom
among the pebbles, where it is very difficult to see them. An entire
afternoon was spent fishing for these specimens, a couple of dozen being
the number secured, and many getting away. It is readily seen from this
that a small bottle may hold the entire catch of an afternoon. Notwith-
standing the difficulties, the snails present many interesting points, and
are well worth the effort. No bivalves were seen anywhere
By comparing these notes with the record of McDonald lake it will be
seen that the snail life of the two regions is very similar.
The butterflies noticed were not numerous. Those seen were Colias
eurytheme, Basilarchia lorquina, Vanessa milberti, and a species of Ly-
caena. These latter were collected in small places where the butterflies
seemed as close together as they could get, as many as 75 or 100 being col-
lected in one small space. No effort was made to make a collection
of moths or butterflies, attention being diverted in other directions, but
on account of the cold water and the limited vegetation it is not likely
the best place to seek such insects in quantity.
ENTOMOSTRACA.
Dredgings and surface catches were made during each day of the ten
spent at the lake. Altogether 39 vials were filled, each representing a
catch. Usually the catch represented fifty strokes of the pump. It
was our custom to take a surface pumping, then attach ten or fifteen
feet of hose, afterwards 25 feet, then 50 or 75, then 100, afterwards
all that could be put together, 140 feet. It was soon discovered that dur-
ing the day very few entomostraca were at or near the surface, though
they were always to be found late at night or early in the morning near
the surface. To seek a solution of the problem pumpings were made
late at night, before daylight in the morning, and during the day. It was
observed that light was not suited to these animals, and that as soon as
day dawned they sank to a depth of 25 or 50 feet, remaining until dusk,
when they again returned. These observations were verified later in
McDonald lake, in Flathead lake, and Swan lake. It was found that to
108 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
secure specimens in day time the hose must go to a depth of 25 or 30
feet, while at night they were as numerous at the surface as any place
else. These diurnal movements are very interesting. It does not ap-
pear that the movements are in schools, but that the movements are
everywhere uniform.
These observations are not in accord with those made on Flathead
lake on July 6. At that time Cyclops pulchellus Koch was exceedingly
abundant on the surface of Flathead lake, in great numbers, on a bright
sunshiny day.
Observations showed that life at night was most abundant at the sur-
face, the quantity decreasing toward the bottom, until at the lowest point
reached by the appartus, 140 feet, but few forms and relatively few of
each species, were found. Life in the lake is scanty as compared with
that in the shallow ponds near the lake, and small ponds found at other
places. Yet considering that the water is so clear and cold and con-
tains so little food the life appears abundant.
The most abundant species, which had practically entire control of
the lake was what appears to be a new species of Diaptomus. The next
was Daphnia thorata Forbes, a species allied to Daphnia hyalina Leydig.
Cyclops Americana Marsh was rather abundant. No amphipod crusta-
sea were observed in any place.
The work in this lake was made possible only by the use of a canvas
boat which was secured on purpose for the work, and which served its
purpose admirably. See Plate XXVIII. This boat was 14 feet long, and
carried about 800 pounds as the largest load given it, carrying this in
perfect safety. The only boat on the lake was an Indian scow found near
the upper end on the shore, which the boys towed to camp and fixed up
so as to be serviceable, but which was very unwieldy and could not be used
to any advantage. It was jocularly termed the Oregon, but was not used
to any extent, and would never have been found save with the canvas boat.
The canvas boat, Daphnia, was used constantly to transport the collectors
to different parts of the field at the lake, and to go across and from end
to end. It was in use most of the time by some one, was light and easy
to handle, and was a general favorite. The boat was a source of much
examination on the part of the Indian visitors both here and at other
portions of the reservation. They seemed to think it was good for any
kind of a trip, and an invitation was extended later to take a badly wound
ed Indian with a well friend a distance of 20 miles on Flathead lake, and
the same distance returning. Needless to say the offer was not accepted.
It was with much hesitancy a canvas boat was taken, fearing it would
be unserviceable, but it was a complete success. In a short time after
landing at the lake the boat was in use and was readily packed up when
camp was broken.
By following the canyon leading south toward the Jocko for a dis-
tance of two miles there are to be found several ponds. The first
one is small, and at the time of our observations contained little water,
though much life in proportion. In fact the first pond was not much
more than a puddle. This was in the canyon before it had widened much.
But a little farther the canyon widens considerably, making a pond cover-
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 109
ing several acres, and still further widens into a beautiful park with fine
timber of yellow pine and tamarack, with a pond much larger than the
preceding. How many more may be beyond is not known. Reference
has been made to these ponds under the remarks on ornithology. They
proved to be very interesting from the entomostracan standpoint.
As the boat was not taken to these lakes the hauls were made by
throwing the net out from shore with a long line and pulling it in. It was
difficult to secure a haul more than thirty or forty feet from shore. On
one occasion the pump was taken and pumpings made.
The entomostraca differ radically from those found in Sinyaleamin
lake, some two miles distant. The species identified are Diaptomus
leptopus Forbes, Cyclops serratulus Fisher, Moindaphina, probably ala-
bamensis, and Cyclpos signatus. Not a single one of these species was
found in Sinyaleamin lake, and not a single species found in the lake
was taken in these ponds. As the ponds are shallow and the water
warmer, besides having different food conditions, it is probable there
would be a difference in the two lakes, but no such striking difference
was expected. From a casual observance the idea was gained that the
lake possibly had an outlet through this canyon, but the life in these ponds
does not confirm the idea, but opposes it.
One surprising thing at these ponds was the scarcity of dragonflies.
It would appear that this would be an admirable place for these insects
to breed in, yet very few were seen. From this it will be inferred that
the ponds freeze to the bottom in winter, thus killing the most of the
larvae, but this is only conjecture. It is also possible that the numbers
of birds in the region may keep them pretty well killed off. At any rate,
they were scarce. Aeschna constricta, Sympetrum obtrusum, and Enal-
lagma calverti were the only species observed. Not an Ischnura was
seen.
The presence or absence of fish in these ponds was not determined,
but all the evidence was negative. The ponds gave the impression from
appearances that they would go dry in some seasons. If so the absence of
fish would be accounted for, as also the absence of much other life one
would expect to find.
One of the conspicuous features at the lake from a botanical stand-
point was the abundance and beauty of the lichens. This is noticed
in many places in the state, and in some places even more con-
spicuously than here. The lichens cover the trees in many places. Sev-
eral species were taken in great abundance at camp. In breaking off
dead limbs for firewood the choice specimens covering the small limbs
were saved, thus procuring in abundance some fine specimens. At the
upper end of the lake a beautiful species of Lycopodium was discovered,
with long green trailing vinelike stem, several yards in length. In the
woods a species of mushroom belonging to the Polypori was found grow-
ing quite luxuriantly, but mushrooms appeared very scarce.
From Sinyaleamin lake camp was moved to McDonald lake, fifteen
miles north, in the Mission range. But the distance necessarily traversed
to reach the latter lake is much more than the distance by crow’s flight.
110 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
McDONALD LAKE IN THE MISSION RANGE.
The road to McDonald lake from St. Ignatius Mission is good. The
distance ig about 11 miles. Most of the distance is across the level
valley, the last two miles being a very stiff up grade, causing a hard pull
when there is a load.
Camping.sites at the lake are scarce, owing to the nature of the lake.
There is but one portion of the lake, the western end, free from cliffs
or rocks. Most of this is densely wooded with timber and heavy under-
brush. By fording the cutlet, possible in summer when the water is low,
a camping site sufficient for the party was found, on the bank of the lake,
in plain view of the peak, free from underbrush, and above all, in a place
where the cool breeze from the mountains after sundown drove away the
mosquitoes, which are much of an annoyance in the region in early
summer. The camping site was a delightful place, and a stay of ten days
in 1900 was made in order to make collections, and search for living
species of the shell Pyramidula elrodi Pils., as well as to study the ento-
mostraca of the lake. A camp of a week in June, 1901, was made for the
same general purposes. Plate XXIX gives a good view of the lake from
the outlet.
McDonald lake of the Mission mountains lies at the foot of McDonald
peak on the northwest. Like Sinyaleamin lake, it is hemmed in on all
sides except the west by mountains, save that they are much higher,
more picturesque, and steeper. The lake was named McDonald back in
the sixties, and according to priority the name should easily displace that
given to Terry lake, also called McDonald, which lies northeast of Kalis-
pell.
The valley enclosed by the peaks, in which the lake now is, has been
carved out by a glacier, or more properly by glaciers, as there were un-
doubtedly several uniting to form the main glacier which flowed down the
valley. Remnants of these glaciers are yet seen on the mountains, there
being three on McDonald peak, one in plain sight from almost any point
on the lake. The rocks along the lake have been ground smooth, and
show plainly the marks of the ice. At the outlet of the canyon a large
moraine has been made, though not so advantageously situated for dam-
ming the water as at Sinyaleamin lake. But the water has in
time past evidently been much deeper that it now is. The rock on the
north is fast disintegrating, and is filling up the lake with red mud and
ooze. At the upper end is a wooded valley which formerly must have
been a part of the lake. The filling in has drained this part of the lake,
the remainder of the lake not yet being filled up. The present lake is
therefore but a part of what it was formerly.
The lake is smaller than Sinyaleamin lake and not nearly so deep.
It is a mile to a mile and a quarter long, the average width being less
than a quarter of a mile. On either side the mountains come abruptly
to the water, as may be seen in the illustration given, Plate XXIX. As
has been stated, there is a valley at the upper end, so far unexplored,
and densely wooded with arbor-vitae, several species of fir, white and
red birch, and other smaller shrubs. The inlet divides above the lake,
one branch receiving water from the glacier visible, the other bringing
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 111
the water from the amphitheater toward the east, which has for drainage
not only the peaks visible, but also the eastern slopes of McDonald peak.
A general view of the upper end is shown in Plate XXX.
The bottom of the lake is comparatively level and from the mud
on the bottom the impression is gained that the lake is either older than
Sinyaleamin or has filled up much faster. The depth from end to end
is nearly uniform, the deepest being eighty-four feet. The lower end ig
shallow, the outlet being crossed by a ford, hub deep in July. There is
considerable shallow water. The mud at the bottom is of a reddish
color, apparently from the decomposition of the rock on the north shore.
At a point near the middle a ledge of rocks projects from either side,
making the lake at this point quite narrow. The ledge is precipitous,
and the water a few feet from the rocks is deep. These stones are worn
smooth by glaciation, and show deep and numerous glacial scratches.
On the north, to the left in the illustration, Plate XXIX, the rocks
are very steep for about 2,000 feet. Shale and cliffs alternate. By
much hard work one can reach the top of the talus. Above is a mass of
precipitous rock, not to be ascended from this side. Four waterfalls,
with small streams, tumble over the rocks. The waters disappears in
the loose talus at the base long before it reaches the lake. The south.
ern slope is not so abrupt. Large masses of loose talus, with large boul.
ders, line the water’s edge, making a loose and spongy surface for the
retention of moisture.
Life in and around the lake is not abundant. There are few frogs,
and probably no snakes, as but one of the former was seen during the ten:
days and none of the latter. On the rocks at the water’s edge, altitude
3,300 feet, several pika,Lagomys princeps, were killed. This is the lowest
altitude known to the writer at which these peculiar animals have been
taken. They are abundant on the peak at 8,000 feet and over, but none
were taken, owing to the difficulties in getting them when killed among the
crags at these high altitudes. The banks of the lake are so steep and
rough that it is all but impossible to climb along. Almost an entire after-
noon was spent in going the length of the lake a few hundred feet from
the water’s edge. An exploration will probably show great possibility
of increasing the size of the lake by overflowing the valley at the upper
end, if it shall ever become a necessity to use this lake as a reservoir site.
On the northern side the timber is not so dense, owing to the nature
of the rocks. The banks are steep, and the cliffs afford poor hold for the
roots of trees which have not gained much headway. On the mountain
above the precipitous rocks the timber is quite heavy, being largely of yel-
low pine and fir. The southern bank is well wooded. The canyon at the
head of the lake is densely wooded, through which there does not appear
to be an entrance made by road or trail. At the outlet and along the
moraine near the lake there is fine timber, some of which has been cut
for rails and lumber. Everywhere there is much underbrush, making
progress difficult.
The road to the lake is good, considering it is a mountain road.
There is some travel over it. The lake is a great resort for the
Indians and those who visit the reservation, on account of the excellent
112 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
fishing and beautiful scenery. There is no drift around the shores, most
of the drift having lodged in the outlet. Here there is a quite a jam.
CONCHOLOGY OF McDONALD LAKE.
Search was made daily for shells. In the waters there were large
numbers of a new variety of Limnaea emarginata Say, described in Nau-
tilus, Vol. XV,* as var. montana. This is the same shell that was pre-
viously taken in Sinyaleamin lake with so much labor, and was much
more aboundant in McDonald like than in Sinyaleamin. Along the
rocks in the middle of the lake they were taken in considerable numbers,
and at the outlet others were taken among the grass and weeds in the
shallow water. This species seems to relate emarginata to stagnalis,
some of the shells showing the malleations of stagnalis quite
plainly. Placed side by side they have many points in common,
but are very much smaller than the variety appressa of stagnalis taken
in western Montana.
Physa ampullacea Gld. was found sparingly, not so abundant as in
Sinyaleamin lake. Strange to say, not a single specimen of Planorbis
was seen. Planorbis seems to be a warm water species, and while a few
were taken at Sinyaleamin lake, they were very scarce, and the few
taken were small and badly broken. In the small ponds and lakes in the
valley to the west of the Mission range Planorbis trivolvis is exceedingly
abundant, and in the small lakes or ponds of glacial origin along Flat-
head lake these shells are found in great numbers.
Among the underbrush at the lower end of the lake Pyramidula stri-
gosa var. Cooperi was found in large numbers, as also P. Solitaria Say.
These two species have been considered distinct heretofore. A large
series of several hundred was assorted with the attempt to make two
species. The most widely different were easily separated, but by this
process of elimination those remaining were more and more difficult
to place in one species or the other, and the last remaining could appar-
ently go as easily in one pile as the other. From external appearances
it seems difficult to distinguish some of those found at this lake as be-
longing to either the one or the other species. The two were found in
the same locality, were picked up together, and were placed in the same
receptacle. It was impossible to do anything toward working out life |
histories, and internal anatomy may reveal differences that external
anatomy does not disclose. But as descriptions of shells are largely
based on external anatomy it is doubtful if these two species are distinct.
It may be well to note here that all the shells taken so far at the upper
end of Flathead lake are var. cooperi, none having been taken that could
be called solitaria.
Having found a very small variety of the shell Pyramidula strigosa,
called alpina, at high altitude on Sinyaleamin mountain, it was thought
the same shell might be found on the heights of McDonald peak. A short
description of the trip in search for this shell is given in the succeeding
pages. Sinyaleamin mountain is almost due south of McDonald peak,
in the same range, the distance between the two peaks in air line being
* Nautilus, Vol. XV., p. 111.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 113
Lake
M* Donald
Glacvated Rocks
Glaciated Rocks
Slide Te illed here
Alt.3300
Fig. 2. Diagram of McDonald Lake, showing contour, depth and shore
characteristics.
114 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
something like twelve or fifteen miles. On the assumption that the
shells would start from the water course, and possibly follow the ridge on
the shady and damp side, they must have taken entirely different routes
in ascending the two peaks. They were found abundantly on McDonald
peak at the altitude 7,800 feet to about 8,500 feet. It is worthy of note
that the shells seem to begin and end rather abruptly. When first
found, on either mountain, they were found in considerable numbers.
The high summits of McDonald are so steep, and the broken rocks so large
in size, that there seems a limit to the range of the shell on McDonald.
From our observations it appears that on the south side of Lake Mc-
Donald thre is a break from the slopes immediately above the lake, with
altitude about 3,400 feet, to 7,800 feet, in which no strigosa have beén
found. They are probably there, but sparingly, since diligent search
was made during the ascent. On the other bank, however, the northern
slope, strigosa has been taken from the lake to altitude 7,500 feet, and
continuously. Moreover, the shells taken at the high altitude on the
north slope are many times the size of those taken on the opposite mount-
‘ain. The locality in which the shells were taken on McDonald is on a
ridge facing the west, bare of trees and other shelter, wind-swept, and
storm-swept. On the north, on Teton mountain, the ridge faces the west,
but is well wooded and protected, and apparently retains moisture much
longer. To conchologists and others the wanderings of this shell will
be of much interest, and the description has been given in some detail be-
cause of that interest.
A good series of Poiygyra tawnsendiana, var. ptycophora was secur-
ed. The underbrush was so dense that it was necessarry to crawl on
hands and knees most of the time among the shrubs and small trees. By
digging in dead logs, overturning decayed stumps and branches and
pulling apart dead leaves a good series was obtained, but at the sacrifice
of clothing and flesh.
Of these three species many were found eaten by squirrels. These
were carefully preserved, and examination made of the method of proce-
dure. The usual method was to break the shell at the apex of the spire,
making a good sized opening. Through this the animal was drawn and
no doubt afterwards devoured. A few openings were made at other
places, and sometimes at very unfavorable places, due no doubt to lack
of experience on the part of the enemy. Of the species P. strigosa, var.
cooperi fifty were found thus broken into. Of P. solitaria four or five more
than of cooperi, while P, townsendiana, var. ptycophora had but two thus
eaten. As these latter much more resemble the surroundings than do
the striped Pyramidulas this is not surprising, and is a good illustration
of protection.
On the talus north of the lake the bleached remains of a hitherto new
shell were lying abundantly on the rocks. During the short stay at the
lake in July, 1899, some forty specimens of this shell were secured,
Pilsbury described it as a new species in Nautilus, Vol. XIV., P.
40. The species is shown in Plate XXXII. _ It certainly is a species as
distinct as many other described species, and certainly is unlike any other
shell so far described in many respects. Whether or not intermediate
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 115
forms will be found which will destroy the identity of the species is to
be determined. During our stay of ten days at McDonald lake several
days were spent almost entirely in searching for both living and dead
specimens. More minute descriptions of the results of this search hava
been given elsewhere, and need not here be repeated. It is suf-
ficient to say the living shells were found. The first were taken
high up, on a small space on the top of a crag where there was a little de-
caying rock, while trying to get a good position for a photograph of the
peak opposite. The success on this occasion spurred to greater effort,
resulting in finding other living shells nearer the water’s edge, by going
deep among the talus toward moisture. But none living were found
among the rocks close to the lake. The net results of this search were
several quarts of shells, with several dozen preserved animals, some of
them beautifully expanded.
This shell, Pyramidula elrodi Pils., appears to have a very limited
range. It is found abundantly on the northern shores of the lake west-
ward to the last stream of water trickling over the rocks, when it ceases
abruptly. On the southern shore of the lake it is found very sparingly,
but a few being found as the result of an afternoon’s search, among them
a single live one. There is good reason for believing they occur along
the slopes of the mountains that form the amphitheater above the lake,
bordering the valley mentioned, as otherwise their presence on the south
side of the lake is not accounted for. They have been found up on the
side of the mountain as far as explorations have been made, up to 7,500
feet, and still seem to continue. How far up the mountain they are
to be found is problematic, and should be determined. Diligent search
has so far not revealed the species at any other part of the Mission range.
It is expected later to make collections on the east side of the range,
when search will be made for the shell there. Search for shells during
succeeding years has failed to produce a single speciment from other
localities than the one here described. The distribution therefore seems
to be extremely limited. The amphitheater may better understood by
consulting Plate XXIX.
The shell is not only a land form, but is a rock form. It seems to
have a preference for nooks and crevices on the summit of some cliff.
In searching for them it was discovered they were most abundant along
the water courses, where vegetation had not yet gained a foothold. It
was unnecessary to search among the debris collected at the roots of a
clump of bushes, but if there was an open space where the talus was
loose and open they were likely to be found. In the spring time they
evidently crawl over the brown lichen covered rocks in search of tha
lichen food, crawling beneath when the warm days come on and the
moisture on the rocks dries up. The few remaining too long are killed,
their shells bleaching from a dark flesh brown to a beautiful pearly white,
It is described by an admiring friend as the queen of the Pyramidulas. By
digging among the damp talus a few live ones may be found. Higher
up, where there are small springs from the mountain side, they may also
be found.
During the season of 1901 a week was spent again at McDonald lake
116 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
in the last of June. It was the rainy season. In three weeks there
were but three or four days of sunshine. While this bad weather was
hard on those living out, as we were obliged to do, it was the best time of
the year for collecting . One day while at this lake the rain came down
almost the entire day. It was just such a day as would be good for land
shell collecting, and rigged out in gum boots and a slicker the writer spent
the greater part of the day crawling through the wet underbrush in search
of shells. They were found in great abundance. P. strigosa and P.
solitaria were out in great numbers. It is no exaggerations to say that
if one had desired to do so he could have secured a peck of these two
species. With them was now and then found a Polygyra townsendiana,
var. ptycophora, but they were in no great abundance. Considering the
small territory examined the number of shells to be had of these two spe.
cies in the region of McDonald lake is very great. As it is the collection
taken and brought to the University of Montana was more than a thou:
sand specimens from this field alone.
The camp was made primarily to secure further information relative
to P. elrodi Pils. Immediately after a rain the rock talus on the north
bank of the lake was examined. The rocks were very slippery, the grade
steep, and the bushes dripping with moisture. Rain fell a portion of the
time. But P. elrodi was at home. Large and small, they were every-
where in abundance. In 1899 but a few bleached shells were found on
the exposed rocks. In 1900 a much larger number of bleached shells
was found, together with a few live ones. They were also followed up
the mountain slope about two thousand feet. But during the camp of
1901 large numbers, of all sizes and apparently all ages, were taken. They
were crawling over the rocks in plain sight, though almost invisible save
by close scrutiny, owing to their resemblance in color to the rocks, and
were traced up the mountain to an altitude of over 7,500 feet. At this
altitude the dead shells with occasional live ones, were still abundant.
As we had started up the mountain in the afternoon it was impossible to
go farther that day, and the return was made to camp, with plans for
ascent to the end of the shell region. That night a storm prevailed, and
we concluded from indications we would fare better out of the hills, and
got out, none too soon. The next morning the hills were white with new
snow, remaining so for a long time.
In making this search up the mountain a shell was found which is
undoubtedly a hybrid between P. elrodi and P. solitaria or P. strigosa.
It has the form and sculpturing of the former, and the characteristic band
markings of one or the other of the latter. Which of the latter it is diffi-
cult to determine. But as strigosa was much more abundant along the
ridge than solitaria the hybrid is probably elrodi and strigosa. The shell
is of a young specimen, less than half grown.
P. elrodi is not the only shell that made the ascent of the mountain.
Associated with it, even to the highest point, P. strigosa, and P. solitaria,
in varying numbers, were taken. The result, is a fine series, from alti-
tudes from 3,300 feet to 7,500, which will afford material for working out
the results of altitude.
It is not inappropriate to quote the following paragraph in reference
to P. elrodi and its home.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 117
“It is a shell of the rocks. It lives among the crags of the Mission
mountains, where there is scant vegetation, preferring the crannies at
the top of some cliff, where large colonies have been found. Among the
loose rocks it finds a home, hides from its enemies, thrives during the
springtime when snows are melting, and, later, when the rocks are dry
and hot, crawls beneath where there is a little moisture, throws a trans-
parent film across the opening of the shell to prevent evaporation, and
awaits the coming of the next season. Those animals which have not
sought the damp and cool crevices early enough are prostrated by the
heat. They soon die, and their bleached and empty shells may later be
found by the collector who is so fortunate as to be in their locality. They
do not like the bushes. It was found unnecessary to search the rocks
about clumps of bushes, for none were there. But on exposed places,
where the rocks were bare and clean, dead shells were found, and by
digging below an occasional live one was secured. I envy this shell) its
home. It is one of the most beautiful spots of the beautiful Mission
range. ‘The grand old peak, McDonald, is constantly in view, its rocky
crest most of the time covered with snow. Below, smooth and placid,
McDonald lake invites attention. To the west a little water fall tumbles
over a rocky cliff, and the water disappears in the loose talus below.
Anon an eagle circles in the heavens, and the American raven casts a
silent shadow as the bird passes over. The wild laugh of the loon rings
in the air at midnight, and mountain goats browse on the vegetation above.
Clouds gather at the summit of the peak, and fierce lightning on a moon-
less night illumines the sky with vivid and lurid light. The thunder-peals
roll from crag to crag, and with deafening crash startle every living thing.
Again the day is clear and the sun is bright, sunshine such as only a
mountain region can give, and all is quiet, serene, and beautiful. Per-
haps for countless years these varied scenes have been enacted. The
home of this beautiful shell is as beautiful as the shell itself, and the carv-
ing and sculpturing which have been given by Nature as an adornment to
the shell are but a miniature of the immense ridges and ravines every-
where abounding.”
The shell life of McDonald lake is therefore seen to be very interest-
ing. While there is no large list of species, those to be found are in
good numbers, and the collection of shells made at this camp was very
satisfactory.
ORNITHOLOGY OF McDONALD LAKE.
Bird life at McDonald lake is similar to that at Sinyaleamin lake,
as was to be expected. The rugged condition of the country prevented
extensive collecting. The woods and brush at the outlet of the lake were
the most prolific places examined, and notwithstanding the dense brush
and the attending difficulties, were the only places where much collecting
was done. A two days’ trip to the summit of the peak brought in sev-
eral specimens, but the bare ridge ascended was comparatively free
from bird life above the forest belt, and below that most of the time was
employed in hunting a way for ascent. Around the lake the effort to
take birds was exceedingly laborious. The ornithologists made strenu-
ous efforts to search the shores of the lake, but it was almost impossible
118 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
to get around. More collecting was done at camp than at any other
place. Once Prin. Silloway shot a Townsend’s solitaire, a very inter-
esting catch. It fell five hundred feet down a cliff, entailing a half
hour’s work to find it and recover the ground lost. Unidentified rap-
tores circled above him in perfect disregard of futile efforts to secure
them, as he describes in his report.
As usual at our camping places, the spotted sandpiper, Actitis macu-
laria L., was common along the shores of the lake. Un the slopes toward
McDonald and elsewhere on the hills Richardson’s grouse, Dendagapus
obscurus richardsoni Dougl., was not infrequent. Franklin’s grouse, the
fool hen of popular reputation, was common in the vicinity, Dendragapus
franklini Dougl. The gray ruffed grouse or pheasant, Bonasa umbellus
umbelloides Dougl., was common in the thickets along the water courses.
The sharp-shinned hawk, Accipiter velox Wils., was found regularly near
the lake. Accipiter cooperi Bonap., Cooper’s hawk, was common along
the cliffs of the lake, but were on such inaccessible pinnacles that they
could not be taken. The western red-tail, Buteo borealis calurus Cass.,
the American rough-legged hawk, Archibuteo lagopus sancti-johannis
Gmel., and the desert sparrow hawk, Falco sparverius deserticolus
Mearns, were all seen about the lake. The only owl observed was the
western horned owl, Bubo virginianus subarcticus Hoy, which is common
in all the woodlands of the region. Its mournful note was not infre-
quently heard in the evening or at night.
A single pair of kingfishers, Ceryle alcyon Linn., seemed to have
charge of the lake, and worked industriously at the inlet at the upper
end of the lake, where the diverging streams from the main source made
the fishing excellent.
Five woodpeckers in all were taken at McDonald lake. One specimen
of the alpine woodpecker, Picoides americanus dorsalis Baird, was taken
near camp. The rednaped sapsucker, Sphyrapicus varius nuchalis Baird,
is a common resident near the lake. The pileated woodpecker, Ceophloeus
pileatus Linn., was heard several times near camp, and notwithstanding
much shooting two were taken almost from the tent door. This large
and beautiful bird is reputed to be shy of man. It has been taken through-
out the Mission range, and nowhere does it appear as shy as is reputed.
Lewis’s woodpecker is common in the valley below the lake, and in the
tall pines is one of the most common and conspicuous birds. Every
where the red-shafted flicker, Colaptes cafer Gmel., is common.
Occasionally at nightfall the western night-hawk, Chordeiles virgini-
anus henryi Cass., was seen flying about. The rufous hummingbird, Selas-
phorus rufus Gmel., was a frequent visitor to the flowers near camp, and
was a delightful bird to see. Along the rocky wall of the mountain the
calliope hummingbird was several times observed, without doubt, among
the flowers growing along the small water courses dashing over the side
of the mountain.
The western wood pewee, Contopus richardsonii Swains., and Traill’s
flycatcher, Empidonax trailii Aud., were the insect catching birds other
than warblers taken at this camp.
The American magpie, Pica pica hudsonica Sab., the black-headed
jay, Cyanocitta stelleri annectens Baird, and the American raven, Corvus
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 119
corax sinuatus Wagl., were all seen around the lake, though in no great
numbers. The raven was often noted, and repeated efforts were made
to secure specimens, but without success. The only method of approach
was by the canvas boat, and by this means the ornithologist was always
visible. To enter the timber and get among the rocks was to get out of
sight of the prey, and progress was almost impossible. The American
crow and Clarke’s nutcracker, Nucifraga columbiana Wils., were also seen
around the lake, the former sparingly, the latter common at elevation of
7,500 feet and above.
The fringillidae, while not numerous in species, were abundant around
camp at all times. Most abundant among the seed eating birds was the
pine siskin, Spinus pinus Wils., which was everywhere about camp, usu+
ally high overhead in the tallest trees. The western chipping sparrow
was almost as abundant, Spizella socialis arizonae Coues. High up on
the mountain, at an altitude of 7,500 feet or more, Sbhufeldt’s junco, Junco.
hiemalis shufeldti Coale, was taken, the range extending from this alti-
tude down to the lake, 3,300 feet. Among the bushes along the mount-
ain sides the call of the spurred towhee Pipilo maculatus megalonyx
Baird, was heard, and several were added to the collection. The Black-
headed grosbeak, Habia melanocephala Swains., the lazuli bunting, Pas-
serina amoena Say, and the Louisiana tanager Piranga ludoviciana Wils.,
were frequently seen and specimens were added to the list.
On the eastern side of the lake a colony of cliff swallows, Petrochel-
idon lunifrons Say, had made their habitations in the rocks. The song
of the red eyed vireo, Vireo olivaceous Linn., was frequently heard and
the bird wags not uncommon. In common with the warbling vireo Vireo
gilvus Vieill. was heard, and now and then a specimen was added to the
collection. Audubon’s warbler, Dendroica auduboni Towns., was com-
mon in the woods, the most abundant of birds, perhaps, while not in-
frequently Macgillivray’s warbler, Geothlypis macgillivrayi Aud., was.
noted.
In the rapids above the lake, and in the waters adjacent, might be seen
the American dipper, Cinclus mexicanus Swain. The delightful carol of
the winter wren, Troglodytes hiemalis Vieill., was often heard at the up-
per end of the lake, but so secretive was the bird that it was but seldom
a sight of it was obtained, and then but a passing glimpse as the bird
flitted to a new location, to again begin its song. The Rocky mountain
creeper, Certhia familiaris montana Ridgw., was noted almost daily.
Also the slender-billed mnuthatch, Sitta carolinensis aculeata Cass.,
and the long-tailed chickadee, Parus atricapillus septentrionalis Harris,
were seen.
A single young Townsend’s solitaire, Myadestes townsendii Aud.,
was captured, and the adult was seen. These were the only specimens
of this species seen on the trip. It seems to be very rare to the region.
The thrushes include the Olive-backed thrush, Turdus ustulatus swain-
sonii Cab., which was common, the western robin, Merula migratoria
propinqua Ridgw., also common, and the mountain blubird, taken at alti-
tude of 7,500 feet, but seen at the lake.
The bird life of the lake as here given proves very interesting. Tha
camp of ten days produced forty-seven species, all of this being the re-
120 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
sult of the work of Prin, P. M. Silloway, who devoted his entire time to
the study of the ornithological fauna, the results being given in detail
elsewhere.
ASCENT OF McDONALD PEAK.
A party of six made the ascent of McDonald peak, taking two days
for the trip, with the intention of gathering material from high altitudes.
The start was made early in the morning, going as far that day as could
be gone with a horse, which was taken to carry provisions, material,
and blankets. The ascent for the greater portion of the distance from
camp was through dense timber, where it was impossible to,see out. The
first steep slope, however, was open timber, full of ripe huckleberries, and
where there was considerable evidence of bear. Soon, however, a dense
growth of small yellow pines and fir, so thick a man could not enter
them unencumbered, was encountered, barring the way. This small
timber had been seen from below, and appeared to extend for a mile and
a half or more, but from a distance the timber did not appear so dense as
was found on closer inspection. It became necessary to either go around
or return, and the former was decided upon; but even this was very diffi-
cult, owing to the growth right up to cliffs, making it difficult to get the
horse through. After much toil and fatigue the ridge leading up to the
main peak from the northwest was reached, when ascent became less
difficult, and finally comparatively easy.
It is well to remark here that there is a well made trail to the highest
point to which a horse may be taken, the trail leading up from a ridge
near St. Ignatius, from which point many of the ascents are made. This
trail was made in the early days, and over it many persons of note have
travelled. By this trail it is possible to ride on horseback from St. Ig-
natius to snow. It is utterly impossible to take a horse to the summit.
The nearest point to which a horse can be taken is about twelve hun-
dred feet from the summit. The last twelve hundred feet require about
four hours of hard climbing.
Camp for the night was made at an altitude of 7,800 feet, as shown
by the aneroid. There was not much place for camp, the ridge being
narrow, and the rocks rough. But by vigorous efforts each of the party
hollowed out a place large enough to lie in. Rocks were piled up on the
down hill side so as to prevent rolling over the cliff, which was but a few:
feet away. Rolled in a blanket, the night was spent here. The locality
may be better understood by referring to Plate XXXIV.
The timber at this place shows the ravages of fire. The south side
of the mountain in past years has been covered with a good growth of
white-bark pine. These extended a little above our camping site, and for a
long distance below. Fire had passed over the mountain in years gone
by, killing the trees, but leaving them standing. The result may be
seen by an examination of Plate XXXIV. At present the timber has not
made a new start, and the ground is comparatively bare, and in the sum-
mer, from its southern exposure, becomes dry and parched. The op-
posite side of the mountain is a cliff on which nothing can grow.
At the time of our ascent a forest fire was raging below, filling the
air with smoke, making it difficult to see in some directions, and materi.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 121
ally interfering with the work we wished to do in photography. Over
the range, in the Swan river country, another fire was raging. These
fires were started by the Indians, if reports are true. A few days before
as we were on our way to McDonald lake, the first signs of fire were
seen by us when still miles away. It was remarked that the fire would
reach alarming proportions if not attended to, and such was the case. It
is difficult to care for fires started in this way, owing to the lack of trans-
portation facilities, and also owing to the difficulty in getting help suffi-
cient to extinguish them. The fire raged for several weeks, ascending
the mountain higher and higher, until a fortunate rain extinguished it.
Immediately on making camp the work of collecting was begun. Tha
botanist went energetically to work, and flowers were abundant where-
ever there was sufficient space and soil for a foothold. The rocks abova
camp were searched in the hope of finding more of the small shells,
Pyramidula strigosa var. montana, which had been found for the
first time on Sinyaleamin mountain ten days before. Sinyaleamin
mountain could be plainly seen by us to the south, its snow covered peak
being easily distinguished from the others. The shells had aroused so
much interest among the party that all were interested in the search.
Nor was there disappointment. A careful search of the rocks a few
hundred feet above camp brought to light a couple of hundred specimens,
among them several live ones. A careful search among the smaller
stones, overturning them and examining the crevices, produced a collec-
tion that caused exclamations of delight from all.
McDonald peak is double, the western summit, the one ascended, being
about a thousand feet lower than the eastern. The two are connected by
a ridge, with a saddle or depression between them. To pass from the
western summit to the eastern requires a descent of perhaps a thousand
feet, then an ascent of perhaps two thousand. The western summit is
easy of ascent, although the last 1,200 feet requires about four hours.
But to ascend the main peak from the western summit seems difficult,
though by taking the snow it is no doubt possible. Up to the present the
main peak has not been ascended by the route from the west, with the
exception of a rumor that the trip was formerly made by Indians. This
statement has not been verified.
The main peak has three or four spurs projecting in different direc-
tions, behind or between which the snow lies in masses, glaciers appar-
ently, remaining the year through. There is little snow on the western
peak in summer, and its importance as a snow holder lies in the fact
that it permits the snow blowing from the valley on the west to pile up
between it and the main peak, thus making the glacier, visible from
almost every part of the valley. These spurs make such protection that
on three different places on the heights of this mountain the snow piles
in drifts which never melt, making three large glaciers. One of these,
the one seen from the lake, is shown in the illustration. The others lia
behind the spurs. The waters from these three snow masses all flow
into McDonald lake. The supply is therefore abundant and never failing.
Moreover, the peaks to the north of McDonald peak, and which are also
north of the lake, give much of their water to this lake.
122 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
The snow mass behind the spur to the left in Plate XXXV. flows into a
small and beautiful lake, Leash lake. This lake is said by those wha
have seen it to be of surpassing beauty, usually full of snow, and visible
only when almost upon it, so well is it hidden in the cliffs. The water
entering the lake flows down the side of McDonald northward. After
leaving Leash lake the water flows west, coming down and joining the
stream from Teton on the north and the stream from the west glacier of
McDonald.
Post creek, the outlet of McDonald lake, on the 30th of June, 1900,
carried 473 second feet of water. The place at which the water was
measured was some miles down creek from the lake, at a lower elevation
than the lake by a thousand feet, and with considerable loss between place
of measurement and lake through irrigation.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 123
The Mission Valley.
This beautiful valley is bordered by the Mission mountains on the
east, the Jocko river on the south, the Pend d’Oreille river on the west,
Flathead lake on the north. The extreme length is about 35 miles, the
extreme width about 15 miles. A terminal moraine separates the lake
from the valley, bordering the lake on the southern end. The country
immediately south of the moraine for a distance of ten miles is beautiful.
It is level land, rich, capable of making good farms, easily irrigated. A
large sand dune stretches across the valley about 15 miles from the lake,
extending east and west. The eastern end is free sand, is not yet held
in place by vegetation, and is slowly creeping eastward. The free and
movable sand is 12 to 15 feet high, clean looking and white. Some eight
or ten miles from this free sand westward one comes to the Pend d’Oreille
river. The country abounds with depressions and coulees, with several
large buttes trom 100 to 200 feet high. It is in this region that the
buffalo herd ranges.
The valley is crossed by four large creeks, as follows: Mission creek
is the most southern. It takes its source in two canons, one the outlet of
Sinyaleamin lake, the other Mission creek proper, with its high
falls, visible for miles on the plain. Sinyaleamin lake receives
its water from the eastern slopes of the mountains, principally from Snow
lake, which is full of slush snow even in July. The stream leaving Snow
lake tumbles over a beautiful cascade just before it enters the lake. The
lake is described elsewhere. The stream from this lake joins Mission
creek proper a short distance from St. Ignatius Mission. A third and
smaller branch emerges from the canon between Mission canon and Mc-
Donald lake. This branch takes its rise in two small and beautiful alpine
lakes, Twin lakes, lying high up in the mountains, fed by melting snows.
Except in early spring this water is consumed in irrigation. Mission creek
flows a little to the north of west, receiving Post creek a few miles west
of the Mission, finally flowing into the Pend d’Oreille river, Mission
creek may be located by examination of Plate XIX. Post creek is the
outlet of McDonald lake, which receives most of its waters from the
slopes of McDonald peak. The creek forming the inlet of the lake has
two forks, one taking the waters from McDonald peak, the other from the
peaks immediately to the north. This northern branch flows through
two small lakes, and has some beautiful cascades, seen plainly from Mc-
Donald peak. Neither of these branches is known save for a very short
distance from the lake. Post creek flows southwest into Mission creek
as previously mentioned. Crow creek takes its rise in the mountains
still farther to the north, in the canon through which runs the Crow creek
trail. This trail is the Indian route across the range to the Swan river
and Big Blackfoot river country. As it crosses the range at a high altitude
it is passable only in summer, and is the only passageway between the
Jocko river and the northern end of the Mission range. The creek flows
a little south of west, receiving Mud creek near the sand dune previously
mentioned, and flowing into the Pend d’Oreille river. It is a large creek,
124 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
clear of brush, a famous fishing resort. Mud creek rises in the canons
near the southern arm of the lake, flows south of west, receives the waters
from Ronan Springs, passes the edge of the sand dune, and enters Crow
creek a couple of miles from the dune. It is not a large creek, but irri-
gates several farms. A fair sized stream reaches Crow creek. From the
sand dune to the lake is 15 miles. The land is level, and no streams cross
it.
ORNITHOLOGY OF MISSION VALLEY.
The country between Crow creek and Post creek is full of pot holes,
of varying sizes and depths, containing water all summer. Hundreds
of these small ponds may be seen from elevation on _ the
mountains, the larger ones lying near the mountains. These
pot holes abound in entomiostracan and insect life, prolific in quan-
tity rather than species. Thousands of frogs line the banks all summer,
and garter snakes, feeding on the frogs, are numerous, large and fat.
In the grass and reed bordered ponds water fowls breed and rear their
young. In the fall large numbers of migrant water birds stop at these
ponds, making an ideal field for the hunter and sportsman. In July the
most abundant water fowl found with young was the American Golden-
Eye, Glaucionetta clangula, var. Americana, taken at several places. A
camp of several days was made at Crow creek in July, 1900. Threa
years previously a camp of several days was made near the same place.
In the creek three species of case worms were found. A quart of
bivalve shells, Margaritana margaritifera were taken in the sandy shoals.
Several other species of shells were found, Planorbis trivolvis, Limnaea
palustris, a Physa, Polygyra townsendiana, var. Ptycophora, Pyramidula
solitaria, and P. strigosa, var. Cooperi. Dragonflies were not numer-
ous. Aeschna contsricta was seen everywhere. Sympetrum obtrusa
was abundant; indeed, it is the most common dragonfly in western
Montana, and is easily captured. Around one of the ponds near the
creek Sympetrum (Diplax) madida was common. They were wary, shy,
and hard to catch. Two hours of hard work resulted in only about two
‘dozen. Lestes unquiculata was the most abundant. Hundreds could
easily have been captured had they been wanted. A few Amphiagrion
saucium and Ischnura were taken, making a total list of Odonata cap-
tured on the plain. In the stagnant water many Ostracoda were se
cured. Butterflies were not abundant. One catch of nearly a hundred
Brenthids was very satisfactory. These were nearly always taken on a
blue aster. Colias eurytheme, brilliant orange, were found in the grassy
flats. Pieris protodice was not uncommon. A Grapta was occasionally
seen. Among the shrubbery Satyrus alope, var. olympus was often seen. A
single male Argynnis Seto was captured. Several Argynnis aphrodite
were among the captured. A single Lycaena, a few skippers, a Thecla
and a Chrysophanus, made the remainder of the list. Except along the
creek and around the ponds there is no collecting.
Birds in the valley are interesting, and around the water are abund-
ant. The list of the ornithologist shows 43 species. Many of these are
quite abundant. The few days spent here were fully occupied by the
ornithologists, and over 60 skins was the result of their earnest work.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 125
These were all prepared in rolled zinc holders to keep their shape until
they could dry. In the few wheat fields several flocks of sharp-tailed
grouse were flushed. Western meadow larks were everywhere abund-
ant. t obout the long valley extending 100 miles north and south.
Such a valley likewise is the Bitter Root valley, though the peculiar
feature of this larger valley under discussion is that while the other val-
leys of similar history in the state show plainly by their drainage that ero-
sion by streams and rivers has played an important part in the cutting and
enlarging of the depression along the fault plane, this one by its peculiar
termination at the Jocko hills on the south and by its entire lack of evi-
dences of stream courses from Flathead lake to the south end gives indi-
cations of a different history. More detailed study may show that the
valley was once occupied by a large stream, or that the drainage, unlike
that of to-day, was to the northward instead of southward.
The Jocko hills may have been faulted or raised after the valley
erosion had been finished. I have never been able to find any record
of excavations in the valley bottoms by which could be learned the depth
of the soil and gravel to the rock.
It has been noted above that the Mission valley has a general eleva-
tion of from 100 to 250 feet above the lake while the Flathead valley is
much more regular in its surface and is but slightly elevated above the
lake. These two valleys are of different history in so far as the bottoms
are concerned.
Flathead valley plains show clearly that the soil is made almost en-
tirely of sediments deposited in the still waters of the lake. This ac-
counts for the level character of the plains. Little if any glacial de-
posit has been formed in this valley. Some is found in the rounded
hills near the mouth of Swan river and along the eastern border of the
valley below Kalispell. These are undoubtedly closely connected with
the glacier deposits found nearer Swan river valley. The lake which filled
the valley ecrtainly much higher than at present evidently receded rapidly.
as I have been unable to find any bench marks or terraces on the hill.
sides. However it apparently receded more slowly after it had reached
the level of the Flathead valley sediments as several old stream courses.
are plainly discernible between the town of Kalispell and the lake.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 1387
The plains of the Mission valley have a much rougher and more irreg-
ular surface due to the moraines and other glacial debris deposited over
much of the valley. The long hill extending diagonally across the valley
directly at the foot of the lake is clearly glacial drift as shown by the
irreguarly distributed clay, boulders, rounded pebbles, etc. The form of
this suggests that it may be classed as a drumlin.
Along the eastern side of the valley are seen many rounded knolls
enclosing small marshes and ponds which are all clearly of morainal
origin. The small ponds found scattered over the entire valley which
contain water most of the summer are probably formed by the depressions:
in the surface due to glacial deposits. These are plainly shown in Plate
XXXII. Small glaciers undoubtedly flowed from the Mission mountains
along its entire length but these deposits must have come from a very
much larger glacier, probably from one which came down from the north
throughout the whole valley.
The lake in its higher elevations probably had its outlet in a western
direction as shown by the old stream course to the westward of the larga
bay behind the large islands. A stream course near the town of Dayton
leading southwestward down the valley of the Little Bitter Root is very
plainly discernible.
When the lake reached its present level it found its outlet across
the lake beds alluded to above, and through the moraines down its pres-
ent course, the Pend d’Oreille river. This is plainly shown by the high
cliffs of clay and other sediments that still retain their perpendicular
sides along the canyon of this river. The increased head of the water
in the lake above and the canyon cut below furnished the tools for the
outflow to cut its canyon rapidly and the beautiful Pend d’Oreille rapids
near the lake at Polson are the result. (These rapids are shown in
Plate XLV.)
Flathead lake now forms but one element in the drainage system
of the upper valley and the territory beyond the Mission and Kootenai
ranges. The entire drainage from this section of the state flows into the
lake through two rivers, viz., the Swan and Flathead rivers. The latter
is made up of three large rivers known severally as the North, South and
Middle Forks. These three streams by their confluence above Kalispell
form the Flathead river. This river is very interesting in itself as from
its fall and other characteristics it shows itself to be but an arm of the
lake. When the lake receded to near its present level, the drainage
from the north and northeast flowed across the sediments cutting an ir-
regular channel, meandering across the plains until sufficient fall of the
lake level was reached to allow it to cut enough channel to hold the
stream. At present it winds its circuitous path across the plains and
has a total length of about 35 miles while the distance as measured in a
straight line from the forks above is but 15 miles. In general its width
is from 300 to 800 feet, and its depth is in some places 75 feet. On ac-
count of the sluggish nature of the current of this river the erosion of
the banks is slight except on the sharp curves, while the deposition in
the bottom of the river and at its mouth is very rapid.
The northern end of the lake into which all of the drainage is poured
138 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
is apparently composed of sediments deposited in the manner mentioned
as a large delta. The course of the river is plainly traced into the lake
for some distance by the delta thus formed, which for a distance of from
one-fourth to one-half mile from the shore is sufficiently high to be
covered by vegetation and in some places by shrubbery. Beneath the
surface of the water the formation is discernible for a long distance far-
ther into the lake. Consult Plate XXXVII.
The opportunities for interesting and valuable geological study in
connection with the Station are therefore apparent at first sight. Whether
in connection with a study of the bottom of the present lake or as a sep-
arate study of the glacial deposits along the valley north to the bound-
ary the study will be both of value and of interest. To students who
have had some general work in geological study the field is a most prom-
ising one. A study of the valley from the upper end of the lake north-
ward with particular reference to its relation to the older lake and river
will certainly afford work for many students. This portion may be a
delta itself or only the sediment of quieter waters. Beyond all of these
questions a study of the territory within greater distances, especially
north of Kalispell and around the divide between Swan river and the
Big Blackfoot tributaries, may bring out information that will throw great
light on the history of many other portions of old topography of the
western slope of the Rocky mountains. The Mission mountains will
prove to be an interesting study from the petrographical standpoint as
will also the Kootenais. In view of the recent developments in the study
of the Miocene Lake beds of Montana it would seem that Flathead lake
offers a great field of study as both ancient and recent beds can be studied
at once.”
In addition to the above notes by Mr. Smith may be given the follow-
ing:
The outlet is called by some Pend d’Oreille river, by others Flathead
river. Some consider Flathead river to extend from its source to the
lake, then from the lake to the Missoula river. Others give the nama
Pend d’Oreille to the stream from Flathead lake to the Missoula river.
The river formed by the junction of the Missoula and Pend d’Oreille is
called Clarke’s Fork of the Columbia.
The present outlet of Flathead lake is of recent origin. The river
for several miles near the lake is swift and rocky, a series of rapids
alternating with more quiet water. About a mile from the lake there
is a large bank of clay through which the river has cut. The clay is
continuous with and apparently a part of the moraine mentioned. At the
river bank it has been cut and eroded by the wind and rain. The bank
is abrupt and steep, the clay clinging together so as to form cliffs, some
ending in sharp pinnacles. Below the clay is the bed rock, similar to
that found at different places around the lake. The river has done some
cutting through the solid rock bed, but not much. At one place the chan-
nel is partially dammed by a large rock in the center of the river. Above
and below this place the river is a beautiful sheet of foam, with several
small falls. It is as beautiful a rapid as one usually sees. In my esti-
mation it is superior to the rapid above the first falls in the Yellowstone.
Plate XLV shows the rapids as seen from the hillside some two hun-
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 138
dred feet above the water. This is a great fishing resort for the In-
dians on the reservation, and one seldom visits the place without seeing
several tepees on the bank some place near. The osprey is as industri-
ous as the Indian, and is seldom absent from the scene when one visits
the rapids.
The moraine at the lower end of the lake is worthy of more extended
notice. Between it and the lake is a level plain. At the western end,
where the plain is widest, it separates the moraine from the lake by a
distance of about two miles. Eastward the hills come almost to the
water’s edge, separated only by a narrow strip of level land.
This level plain shows clearly two terraces, with evidences of a third
higher upon the hillside. The terraces correspond with similar terraces
at the northern end. Here one is beautifully shown at Sliter’s, near the
Station. :
The lake has therefore had two, possibly three levels other than that
at present.
The moraine is 450 feet above the level of the lake, at the piace where
the wagon road crosses near Polson. There are probably several places
higher than this. The railroad survey crosses the moraine about midway
between the Pend d’Oreille river and the mountains. Their readings
show the height at the river to be 84 feet less than that at the place
selected for passage. The engineers preferred the higher passage be-
cause the lower necessitatd doubling back in order to get down on the
southern side.
The wagon road winds back and forth in its passage over. The lake
is invisible until the traveler reaches the crest of the hill, when it comes
suddenly before him in all its beauty. The view of the lake proper
is obscured by the islands and peninsula, which practically cut the lake
in two. The view of the lake from any other point is better than that
from the lower end.
The banks of the lake do not afford as much shelter for invertebrate
life as would at first seem apparent. The southern third, cut off by the
islands, is shallow, nowhere of greater depth than twenty feet. The
eastern part of this bay, formed by the peninsula projecting from the
Mission mountains, is very marshy, with muddy bottom. Rushes and
weeds grow abundantly, offering an excellent harbor for smaller life.
This is the largest marshy region around the lake. Between the mouth
of Flathead river and the mouth of Swan river, along the northern shore,
is another marsh in the spring, of peculiar nature. At the water’s edge
is an embankment of a more or less rocky nature. North of this em-
bankment is a shallow marsh, about two miles long and a quarter to a
half mile wide. When the lake rises, as it does in the spring, from ten
to twelve feet, the water flows over the embankment, and into the low
land. As the lake recedes the imprisoned waters cannot escape, and
offer a fine breeding place for mosquitoes for some time, until the waters
evaporate or filter through the soil to the lake region. Most of the re-
maining banks are rocky, precipitous at the water’s edge, with or with-
out a gravelly beach. The bottom generally is reported to be rocky,
with little mud. This report comes from the captain of the boat Klon-
140 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
dyke, who has anchored all over the lake; his experience on the lake ex-
tends over a period of many years. Compared with the size of the lake
the swampy country is small. From this it would appear that the breed-
ing grounds for most of the fish must be in regions distant from the lake,
causing long migration periods. This is made more apparent from the
fact that fish are rarely caught any place in the lake except at or near
the streams entering the lake, or at the outlet.
Flathead Jake is popularly supposed to be very deep. I was told it
was 1,500 feet deep in places. During the summer of 1899 some twenty
soundings were made in the lake and rivers. The greatest depth ob-
tained was 280 feet. The location of this may be found by referring to
the map. Eugene Hodge, captain of the Klondyke, states that nowhere
is the water deeper than this sounding.
McGovern Bay, on the rorthern end of the lake, is about seventy
feet at the deepest. Flathead river has filled in a large amount of sedi-
ment. East of the mouth of Flathead river the drop in depth is sudden
from the river bar. The deepest portion of the lake is off shore on the
east side, next the Mission mountains. In high water a great deal of
land at both ends of the lake is covered. If the depth of the lake should
be lessened by ten feet, thousands of acres at the lower end would be un-
covered. The annual rise and fall of the lake is from ten to fourteen
feet, but it has risen as much as nineteen feet in a season. The lake
acts as a huge reservoir for water storage, but overflows much land al-
most every year when it is at the highest. The amount of water flowing
into the lake and out of the lake annually has not as yet been determined.
Life in Flathead is scarce. Although some species are taken in
great abundance, the cold clear waters, with rocky bottom and banks
and with few marshes, make life scarce as compared with similar bodies
of water located in warmer climates at lower altitudes.
It is impossible to present the results on Entomostracan work in this
paper. These results will be prepared separately. The work of collect-
ing has extended over four seasons, and many data have accumulated.
During the summer of 1899 collections were made on various portions
of the lake. Report of this work has been made. In 1900, col-
collections were made by Prof. L. A. Youtz, then of Montana Wes. Uni-
versity, now at Lawrence University. In 1901, Maurice Ricker, of Burling-
ton, Iowa, carried on the investigations. These studies have been mada
in but two months of the year, July and August. It is important that col-
lections be made during other months of the year, in order that seasonal
changes may be studied.
In 1902, collections were made during the months of July and August
by Maurice Ricker and the writer. Pumpings were made almost daily,
as the weather would permit. Specimens were taken at depths from sur-
face to 130 feet.
Collecting around shore is confined to the country adjacent to either
end of the lake. On the eastern bank the Mission mountains come down
to the water’s edge, with a few benches at different places. There are
no large streams entering the lake from the mountains on the east. In
the 30 or 35 miles of bank there are only four or five small streams of
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 141
water, any one of which one might step across. These lead down
through deep and steep canyons, with dense underbrush, fallen logs and
boulders. Botanical collecting is good. Insects are not abundant. The
birds have been noted. The shells have been pretty well worked up, as
far as species are concerned.
On the west side there are two large creeks, Dayton creek and Big
creek. The former enters the large arm of the bay. Lake Ronan, which
it drains, has not yet been visited. Indeed, no collecting has been done
on the west bank of the lake. Big creek is near the northern end of the
lake, flowing into McGovern Bay. At the mouth of the creek there is
some low and marshy land, small in extent. The lake a few feet off
shore is deep. The bay near its center is seventy feet deep.
On the west the mountains come down to the water’s edge as they
do on the east, though they are not so abrupt nor so high. The reserva-
tion line passes north of the wide bay at the lower end, thus placing much
of the Dayton creek low land within the reservation. Settlers have
taken up land along the lake, on both sides without the reservation lines,
and the proximity to the lake makes this land very desirable for fruit
raising. The region about Big creek has not been examined. No ex-
plorations have been made in the mountains west of the lake.
As has been stated, the water of the lake is received through the Flat-
head and Swan rivers. The annual rise of the lake in 1900 was 8.3 feet.
That year was one of low water. It is claimed by those in a position to
know that the water has risen as much as seventeen feet during a season.
Since the lake has an estimated length of about 30 miles, which will for
convenience be made 25 miles, and an average width of from 8 to 10
miles, no doubt more than this, it will be seen that the water held back
by this lake in storage is sufficient to cover an area of from 200 to 300
square miles to a depth of from 8 to 17 feet. Swan lake, a few miles
from Flathead lake holds the waters of Swan river in similar manner
from passing to Flathead lake.
The amount of water flowing into Flathead lake, or out of it, has not
been determined. In 1899, two gauges were established on the lake by
the U. S. Government, one at the upper and one at the lower end. These
were continued for a little over a year and were discontinued for lack
of funds. But one measurement has been made of Swan river, none of
Flathead.
The air currents of the lake are numerous, and worthy of extended
study. Rarely is the water perfectly calm. It has been seen, how-
ever, so still that shore objects were beautifully mirrored. The mount-
ains on such occasions show up grandly in the reflection. A ride across the
lake at such time is rare, but it is one never to be forgotten. In the
evening when much of the pumping was made for entomostraca there
were many occasions when the water was comparatively quiet. Usually,
however, a breeze was blowing.
During the summer the wind on the lake is from the south or southwest,
the prevailing direction of the region. The general or prevailing winds
in the summer are as follows: In the morning there is a gentle breeze
down the lake from the north. Soon this dies away, and the wind
142 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
springs up from the south, increasing until early in the afternoon. ‘To-
ward evening the lake becomes quiet. About dusk a light breeze blows
out on the lake from the mountains. At the laboratory the evening
lake breeze is from the east. We have often watched the ripples mov-
ing across the water toward our boat, coming from the land, as we were
at work with the pump. The mountains cool quickly, the cool air flow-
ing down the sides and across both the valley and lake. Similar pheno-
mena have been noticed on all the lakes of the region.
Opposite Wild Horse Island the lake is widest, here having a total
extent across of 18 or 19 miles. This island rises several hundred feet
out of the lake, and is almost entirely in the western arm, projecting out
from the main body of the lake. From the contour of the mainland it
is possible for winds to blow up the lake from the lower end, and across
the lake from the western arm. ‘These air curents often meet in the
open lake east of Wild Horse. Here the wind is most uncertain and the
lake roughest. Winds blowing either up or down the lake may meet
other winds from the bay.. South of the islands the lake is rarely rough.
But when the lake gets real bad it seems as though Neptune was in a
rage and had stirred up the waters to the bottom. In ten minutes the
lake may change from a perfect calm to a sea on which small boats will
hesitate to go, and which may even keep the larger boats in harbor. The
surf beats as in larger lakes. One morning we started home in a 382-
foot steamer. A mile out large waves were met coming up the lake which
caused us to turn back to keep from getting our valuable material and
specimens wet. Three days after a second start was made. We hugged
shore for six miles, when the strong wind piled the waters so high we
sought the shelter of Wood’s Bay. Before we could get to shelter the wind
died down so the journey could be resumed. When half way down and
we were congratulating ourselves on crossing the widest part without
trouble, a wind sprang up which increased in a few minutes to such pro-
portions that the pilot was wet from head to foot, and we were obliged
to seek shelter behind the nearest land, an island. In about three hours
the journey was resumed. In the evening the lake was quiet.
During the summer, June, July and August, the lake is comparatively
quiet, and the winds as given above generally prevail. In spring and
fall they are uncertain, and may come up strongly from any quarter in
a short time. On the occasion mentioned when waves turned us back
after starting homeward the waters were driven by a strong south wind.
On entering the harbor, the mouth of Swan river, a little over a mile of
travel, a light breeze blew from the north east, apparently from the
mountains. All day the waves rolled, but subsided toward evening.
As a result of these conditions small boats work close in shore. Row
boats seldom go far out in the lake. To attempt to cross the lake in one
would be very unwise. Fatalities do not occur because people are care-
ful. As most of the residents are unfamiliar with boats in rough water
and necessity does not drive them on the lake there are not likely to be
reckless or foolish trips in rough water.
In the summer of 1902 a dam was constructed across the river at the
outlet of the lake. This dam was made ag follows. Piles were driven
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 143
by machinery into the river bed eight feet apart. The row of piling ex-
tended across the river from side to side. Two inch plank were nailed
together side by side in threes, fastened by strips. Each set of three
planks was then pushed down into the water, held by the current against
two posts or piles. The ends were therefore between the piling, and
could not be fastened. The idea was to hold back the lake water, pre-
vent the surface from getting low in winter, and thus have depth of water
sufficient to float logs at the new mill at the north end of the lake. In
low water it is difficult to get logs to the tramway. What the result
may be is in the future. The farmers at the upper end of the lake want
the water to run out faster, so as not to flood the land. If the scheme
of holding back the water succeeds in winter it is likely to succeed in
spring when the waters are high. In that event the flooding of land
above will be worse than ever. It is probable, however, that the dam will
be taken out in the spring by ice.
144 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
Daphnia Pond.
Daphnia pond, so-called on account of the great numbers of Daphnia
pulex found in it, is a small pond of some ten to fifteen acres. It is
about a mile and a half from the Station, alongside the regular wagon
road, and only about a half mile from the lake, but at a little higher alti-
tude. This pond is no doubt of glacial origin. In the center the water
is about twenty feet deep, but for the most part the pond is shallow and
overgrown with rank vegetation, offering an excellent harbor for smaller
forms of life. No fish have as yet gotten into this water, and conse-
quently the invertebrate fauna is not affected by them, and has few,
enemies. It is a typical place to study some of the forms of life found
therein, living as they do under very favorable conditions. The varied
and abundant life in this small pond is in strange and striking contrast
to the limited quantity and paucity of species in the large lake, so short
a distance away.
Being in such close proximity to the laboratory it has received consid-
erable attention, and is a favorite resort for those seeking material. In
or near Daphnia pond may be found the following specimens:
SHELLS.
Planorbis trivolvis Say; abundant.
Sphaerium partumeium Say; abundant.
Physa ampullacea Gld.; rather common.
Pyramidula strigosa cooperi W. G. B.; in damp places along banks
of Flathead lake.
ENTOMOSTRACA.
Daphnia pulex; exceedingly abundant, making the color of the water
dirty red. May be taken by the spoonful or pint.
Diaptomus lintoni Forbes; common, but much less abundant.
Cyclops pulchellus Koch; not uncommon.
Gammarus, probably two species, one large, an inch in length, swim-
ming among the water lilies.
ODONATA.
Aeschna constricta, Say; abundant; exuviae to be had in quantity on
the rushes and cattails. The adults are on the wing in large numbers
in late July and early August. During the first week in August, 1901, an
American bittern, Botaurus lentiginosus Montag., was shot whose
stomach was crammed with dragonflies of this species.
Libellula pulchella Drury; next in size to the preceding. Emerges
before August.
Libellula quadrimaculata; on the wing as early as July 8 in 1901.
Lestes unginculata; Hag.; in 1899 this species was emerging in large
numbers during the last two weeks in July. In 1901 they were just
emerging July 8.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 145
Lestes disjuncta; in smaller numbers than preceding, emerging at
the same time.
Enallagma calverti Morse; on the wing early in July; the most abund-
ant of dragonflies at the pond.
Enallagma praevarum Hag.; a few specimens captured.
Sympetrum scotica Donov.; rather abundant in 1899. Scarce in 1901.
Sympetrum obtrusa, var. assimilata Uhler; perhaps the most abund-
ant dragonfly in Western Montana.
Ischnura is not uncommon in the vegetation near the water’s edge.
The above list is not large, but is about as many as one usually finds
in any one locality in the state.
Other material to be found in the pond in abundance may be men-
tioned; many beetles, dipterous larvae, two leeches, several case worms,
many water bugs and worms.
The vicinity of this pond is a great breeding place for birds. It is
here that the ornithologist may do some good work. To give a list of
those choosing this for a nesting place is unnecessary repetition, as this
has been given elsewhere. No fewer than forty-five to fifty migrants
build their nests and rear their young within a hundred yards of the
water’s edge. For so small a pond this is certainly a remarkable show-
ing. On all sides the timber has been destroyed by fire. Thus most of
the shelter formerly afforded has been removed. The nesting sites are
confind to the low bushes along the water’s edge, to those which have
sprung up on the burnt area, to the dead boles left by the fire, and to the
grass and reeds of the pond. Rails are heard daily as they move around
among the weeds. Golden-eyes and grebes usually rear their young in
the grass. Catbirds, western yellow-throats, flycatchers, chackadees,
sparrows, juncos and woodpeckers all are found. The tree dwelling
warblers find a few trees near by. Kingbirds may always be noticed,
noisily chattering as they leave their perches in pursuit of insects. In
this open country the ornithologists of the shotgun or of the opera glass.
may alike find suitable field for work. It is but fair to our workers to say
that very few birds have been killed around this pond.
Frogs, garter snakes, a single species of turtle, and an occasional
muskrat, may be found on the banks or in the water. The white tailed
deer has often been seen close to the pond, and annually black bears are
known to frequent the bushes adjacent in search of berries. Not only
is there an excellent field near this pond for study and for gathering ma-
terial, but the study is frequently intensified by the sudden appearance
of a frightened aeer or the hasty and noisy departure of a black bear as
the collector wanders over the hills.
No attempt will here be made to give the names of species of plants.
The vegetation is abundant, and offers splendid opportunity for study~
ing plant communities.
A short distance below Daphnia pond, along the wagon road, is a
second glacial pond, named Estey pond. This is larger than Daphnia,
deeper, and like Daphnia teems with life. It has no outlet, and like
Echo lake suddenly rose in height a few years ago, remaining to the
present at the higher level.
146 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
ROST LAKE. (MUD LAKE.)
This is a small lake, elliptical in outline, lying between Echo lake
and Swan river. It is but.a few miles from either of the preceding, and
about three miles from the base of the Swan range. This range rises
abruptly from the plain, as does the Mission mountains, and was elevated
in a similar manner. It may be seen by reference to Plate XXXVII, the
small lake in the center of the illustration. Plate XLIV shows a general
view of the lake from the outlet.
The lake is a little over a mile in length from north to south, its
width being about two-thirds its length. It is densely timbered with fir,
spruce, white and yellow pine, birch, cottonwood, and alder on all sides,
with small meadows here and there. Between the lake and the mount-
ains is a gradually sloping plain, with dense forest, crossed by a few
small streams whose sources are in the gulches on the mountain sides.
The upper end of the lake is very marshy, much of it swampy, with
sphagnum bogs and many small rivulets whose waters reach the lake
through tortuous channels. West of the lake the forest extends with
gradual slope to the low hills along Flathead lake and river. The forest
near Rost lake is damp and swampy for the greater portion of the year.
So soft is the soil that the few settlers have been obliged to corduroy
the winding road cut through the lodge poles for a distance of nearly a
mile. Most of the country about this and Echo lake supports a dense
undergrowth of thimble berry bushes.
The lake itself is shallow, with deep mud bottom. In most places
the water is but a few feet deep, in no place was it discovered to be
more than eight or ten feet. In the shallow water a long oar could be
pushed down full length in the mud. As a result of this surface of shal-
low water the sun’s rays in summer warm up the waters more than in
any river or pond of the region, and the animal life and vegetation is
correspondingly rich and varied.
In early September, 1902, the waters of the lake were remarkably
shallow. The passage up and down the lake was made several times in
the canvas boat, carrying two men. With this load the boat was usually
stirring up the mud in the bottom, although the water was perfectly clear.
In many places it was almost impossible to row. A few spots were found
where the water was three or four feet deep. In landing at the upper
end the boat was dragged by the oars through mud to a hummock of
grass. We were then obliged to carefully pick the way out by stepping
from hummock to hummock. '!A misstep on one occasion resulted in a
sudden drop to the waist before the hands could be thrown out. It was
only by quick and active movement that I regained the solid? ground.
Immediately around the waters of the lake the growth of native
grass ig rank. Where it is possible the residents cut this for winter hay.
In 1902, a row boat could land only in a few places, so gradually does
the water deepen, and so deep is the mud. The vegetation is encroach-
ing on the lake very fast. Rushes, water lilies, potamogetons, and other
hydrophytic forms grow even in the middle of the lake. As a consequence,
although there are several small creeks bringing water into the lake there
is no perceptible current across it.
BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 147
It would not require much work to lower the outlet so as to practi-
cally drain the lake. There is talk of damming the outlet for logging
purposes. The idea is to make the water deep enough to float logs in
early spring. It is only a little over a mile by section lines to the river.
The creek could easily be cleared to float logs in the spring. By this
plan it is hoped to get at the marketable timber with moderate cost of
removal.
The timber in the vicinity of the lake is as follows: Yellow pine,
Pinus scopulorum Engl., is quite abundant. The young trees of this
species are by lumberman termed “bull pine,” and are considered very
inferior to what they term “Yellow pine.’* There can be no doubt that
the “bull pine” is but the early growth of the yellow pine. This is one
of the most common trees in the western part of the state. In the wet
and swampy land about the lake it is not abundant, being displaced or
perhaps replaced by others. It is not uncommon to find trees from
three to five feet in diameter. The tree is usually tall, free from limbs,
making excellent timber.
Red fir, or Douglas’ Spruce, Pseudotsuga mucronata, Raf., is the
“oak” of Montana. It is the fir (false fir) of the Puget sound region in
a higher, drier, and more unfavorable climate. In the Rost lake region
it is not so abundant as some other species, but along the mountain slopes
it becomes more common. Westward toward the dry and open prairie
it attains considerable size. Between Rost and Swan lakes, a distance
of some eight or ten miles, the red fir is very abundant, much of it young
growth.
The cottonwood, Populus angustifolia James, is found around the
borders of the lake and in wet places. Many of the trees are large. In
this region there are no cottonwood belts as elsewhere, and the tree may
be spoken of as “not uncommon.”
Englemann’s spruce Picea englemanni Engl., is the most abundant
tree about the lake, save perhaps the lodgepole pine. It is a beautiful
tree, tall and stately. North of the lake is a wet and swampy region
with many meadows. Here this spruce is dwarfed, stunted and reduced
in size. The trees are not marketable. In other places it becomes a
large tree. It does not seem to be so well known among lumbermen as
the yellow pine, fir or tamarack. As there are great quantities of this
spruce in Western Montana it will no doubt be better known later.
The lodge pole pine, Pinus murrayana, Eng., is very abundant in the
region of Rost lake, as also Echo lake. In many places it completely
occupies the land, apparently to the exclusion of all other timber. In
some sections the trees are small, a few inches in diameter and a thick
stand. In other places they have attained large size for lodge pole, a foot
or more in diametter. The lodge pole is not used for marketable timber,
perhaps because the trees are too small. It seems to make good “shakes”
and to be serviceable where it may stay dry, as in houses, stables and
fences. It is reported to be not good for posts. Corduroy roads are
made of it.
*T am informed that lumbermen at Missoula and Hamilton consider
the bull pine or young yellow pine superior to the older trees, yellow pine
proper.
BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
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BIOLOGICAL RECONNOISSANCE AT FLATHEAD LAKE. 149
The white pine, Pinus monticola, Dougl., is not infrequent about the
lake. Toward the Swan range it becomes more abundant. It seems to
be more or less common along the western slope of the Swan range from
Swan lake north to Flathead river. Large trees from 7 to 10 feet in cir-
cumference are not uncommon, and trees with diameter of 18 inches to 2
feet may be called abundant. This tree has not been lumbered much,
and its true wortn is not appreciated. However, compared with other
lumber white pine is not common.
The western larch or tamarack Larix occidentalis, Nutt., is one of the
best known trees of the state. There is considerable large timber near
Rost lake. The trees are usually tall, clean, and free from knots. Much
of the marketable timber of choice size and cutting will be of this species.
The balsam fir, Abies grandis, grows abundantly in this wet and shad-
ed region, in some cases attaining the dignity of a tree of from 12 to 15
inches in diameter.
Here, also, the white birch thrives. Many trees large enough for logs
are growing near the lake and along the mountain side in the wet region.
Many a “curly birch” knot has been seen which from its size would
make fine cuttings. The birch of this section will probably be utilized
later. Betula payrifera makes a beautiful tree, conspicuous by its white
bark. As is perhaps well known, in its early stages the bark is red.
It may then be taken for the red birch, Betula nigra, L., which
is not common in the region. The swamp birch, Betula glandulosa,
Michx., is everywhere abundant around the border of the lake, growing in
large clusters from a common starting place like a rose bush. It even
attains to the dignity of a tree, four or five inches in diameter and fifteen
or twenty feet high.
The white cedar or arbor-vitae, Thuja plicata, Don., grows in con-
siderable quantity in many places in the region. Its value is well
known, though little timber has been used except for “shakes” and posts.
The cedar timber is practically untouched around Rost lake.
The hemlock, Tsuga, grows sparingly, but has not been seen within
several miles of the lake. How abundant it may be along the mountains
is at present not known to the writer.
Among the shrubs may be mentioned the ever present alder, and the
yew. The former occurs along the banks of all the streams. The latter
occurs on the mountain slopes, where it is a matted underbrush, spread-
ing over the ground, an impediment to travel, but less difficult by far to
penetrate than Ceanothus or Menziesii, both or either of which may be
encountered. It was a rare pleasure to find in late August the ripe
berries of the yew. I had never seen them before. The little red cup,
the size of a pea, surrounding a central seed, the whole surmounting a
slender branch of the evergreen, was very beautiful. They were sweet
and pleasant to the taste. As we flushed several fool hens among the
bushes the berries are no doubt eaten by these game birds.
It is unnecessary to mention the willows, taree species of which were
noticed, as they are ever present in the damper places in the valleys
as also high up, even to the alpine regions. As Harry N. Whitford,
of the University of Chicago, is making a careful study of the forests
of the region adjacent to the Biological Station it would be unwise to
150 BULLETIN UNIVERSITY OF MONTANA
forestall any of his work or enter the field he has chosen by generaliza-
tions as to the influences which have caused the present distribution of
the different species of forest trees. All this will be given in his final
report, which will be published later, no doubt.
Rost lake is a typical example of a body of water being filled in by
sediment and having its inlets, outlet, and sides choked by hydrophytic
vegetation. This vegetation is encroaching on the lake in every direc-
tion. The annual rise and fall of the lake is several feet, and for a hun-
dred feet or more in every direction from the lake the vegetation was
profuse and abundant, at the time of our stay, early July. In the spring
the surface of the lake is considerably larger.
The outlet of the lake, Rost creek, carries the water into Swan river.
The lake has no driftwocd. The inlets are too small to carry drift, and
the edge is too swampy to permit forest vegetation close enough to the
water to have fallen timber in the water.
This is locally known ag Mud lake. It figures on most of the
maps as Rost lake, improperly spelled Ross. The name was given be-
cause of the early residence at the lake of a Swede named Rost.
The lake is apparently of glacial origin. In a short time it will be
filled up. The grassy meadows in the immediate vicinity, all of them
wet and swampy, are no doubt smaller lakes or portions of this lake that
have been filled up by sediment and hydrophytic vegetation.
As was stated, the animal and vegetable life is quite var-
ied. Clustered about the dead stumps of the rushes were large masses
of a fresh water sponge, Spongilla, green in color, with long fingerlike
arms waving in the water. Very few shells were found. In the creek
below the outlet a few young Margaritana margaritifera were taken. oe ee 149
HO: ering ols 99, 110, 120, 147
Plint creel paw ves ving ee ae we 135
Pluk; H1V6? oi ca cc cies ene wie ee 152
Flathead Indians ...... ....... 97
Flathead Lake ....92, 97, 104, 128, 125,
126, 133, 135143, 146300050025 156
Flathead Reservation 94, 1381, 1383, 134
Flathead River 187, 139, 146, 149, 153,
Seatee. Saas 154
179
Page
PUY GACH Ot ass-ciek ods Ga kals oie 145
FOO! NON, is a5 gaae yes ee sate ees 118, 149
Forbes, S. A: scevca sane eaters 92, 160
ROréSt: 11T@: ayer cunn cana are 8 a 120
Fringiwidae 2 sciack eae ke aware 119
POR Sista sesatne, WEA AAS OD 145
Fulton Creek ccc sai kees wae 165
Galeoscoptes carolinensis ...... 125
Gammarus 26.4 262% sa %8 esas 149
Geothlypus macgillivrayi ...... 119
Geranium .... .. 26.6 cece eaee 127, 128
Glacial action .......... 153, 157, 166
Glaucionetta clangula .... 124
Goldeneye .......... 105, 124, jaa 157
Grebe sass ieee Si ateeuaweeawes 144
Grosbeak, black-headed..106, 118, 125
Grouse, Franklin’s ............ 118
Richardson’s ........ 101, 105
TUS Mg ae oo pbaed- an aed eee 104
———— sharp-tailed .......... 124
Habia melanocephala ........ 119, 125
WPA PONG o sxste! iene eh des cantata gach oe 150, 151
PAIS DEAK osc ba sew sence ae yay arecen 159
ELAMILCOR *ied er gd ee a Dae 147
Harris; W).-Pis se sacs Selene Raves 94, 163
Hawk, American rough-legged.. 118
GOoper’S! we sss 95h descend 118
desert sparrow ...... 105, 118
sharp shinned ........ 118
Western red-tail ...... 118
Haystack mountain ...... 163, 165, 166
Helena sacs cixveas esvevenes can 1381
Hemlock six. sien saeeveanesa é 149
Hippocampus 13-signata .. .... 166
Hodge, Eugene ................ 140
Humming-bird .... .......... 106, 118
Hybrid shell ssccenccaeiscus sens 116
Hydra corala .... .. .....e.eee 155
TdahiOy.. sv eaitass Goes Slay Gay 134
TWMOIS: | ass eas dence atte tos 96
TM GTAING: 5g gua hnceides aGuewnce aieane aes 121
ISCHAUR as e556) see souke neds 144, 150
Jay, black-headed ............ 106, 118
~ocky Mountain ...... 106
JOCKO Hills: sceaine aera eae ve gees 136
Jocko Peaks .... ......... 98, 101, 104
JORKO FIVEP cca cccens 97, 98, 123, 185
Jones, Buffalo .... ........005. 130
Junco, Shufeldt’s ............ 106, 118
Kalispell ........ 92, 108, 131, 136, 154
Kine bird: ina Gade opee ees Seles 145
Kingfiisher, belted ...... 105, 118, 157
KODOEV RG? ange a ase care ete 140
Kootenais .. 94, 104, 126, 136, 163-168
180
Page
TEAGE WAKO ie cee shavansond- bs Gass TEU 121
Lagomys princeps ............ 111
Larix occidentalis .... ........ 149
Lestes disjuncta ............. 144, 150
unguiculata ....124, 144, 150
LeuCcISCUS 6a ae soe Ree oes sis 153
Lewis and Clarke Forest Reserve
ardideh paras,