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New York
State College of Agriculture

At Gornell Wniversity
Sthara, N.Y.

 

Library
ov University Library
SB 419

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WINDOW GARDENING
 

An Attractive Window Garden
WINDOW GARDENING

By
HERMAN B. DORNER

WITH
ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS

INDIANAPOLIS
THE BOBBS-MERRILL COMPANY
PUBLISHERS
COPYRIGHT 1908
THE Bopss-MERRILL COMPANY

FEBRUARY

nS

@
SB4I9

a

@ 24515

PRESS OF
BRAUNWORTH & CO.
BOOKBINDERS AND PRINTER:
BROOKLYN, N. V.
TO MY FATHER
CONTENTS

CHAPTER
* INtTRopUCTION—WINDow GARDENING IN GENERAL

Causes of failure ‘
Selection of plants
Neglect . . .

I. ConTAINERS . . .. .

Earthen pots . . .

Kinds of pots . . .

Devices for catching drip
Window boxes .. .
Structure of window box
Hanging baskets . . .
Kinds of baskets . . .

Ferneries . - .-. .
Japanese pots and tubs .
Other devices . . . .

Jardiniéres and their uses
Necessity of drainage .

II. Potrinc . . :

Effect of the size of Ba .

What determines size of pot

Value of good drainage .

How drainage may be secured

Shifting of plants .

Removal of plant from pot .

Shouldering . . ..
Loosening of roots . .
Potting the plant

Implement for firming the eal:

Potting of small plants

Transplanting from garden .

Repotting . ....

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CONTENTS—Continued

CHAPTER ; PAGE
Repotting of dormant plants . . . . 2. . e+ « + 30
Pot-bound plants . . 2. 2. 2 6 © 6 © © © © © OF

8 TTT SOMWS: ae tes See ak Oe Se ee WP He ee GE! See Ge 2
Types.of Soil’ 6. 6 ow eB ow ee esl bw 92
Sands ce ssh gh Ss ee a SY 8S

GIB sd oh oss, ey Sa he ke Hee ah es ove cae Ee
BE UIMUS: yo oe dre WR ee EAL Sel RR eer ed
Mixed: soilStc.0 a es et! Ge ow ee ee ee Se OBS

Team tee ase ie wk a ee ee re es ce Be OSS:
Sandy loam<. « « + & & @ % 2-2 ew » = « 36

Clay loam . . tt Pee FES Sets, Be ee OR DR GO
Where to secure avils as POtlINE ea. ce er ee we er QO
Sifting of soil . . . dpe Bh ose, glEA en BF

Soils for potting isenubey al les ee eto! Qe Mer BS
Moisture condition of potting soil. . . . . .« « + 40

> IV. WaTERING . . ay. Wewses tie Jets Genesee AS
Results of over- aid indice: eitcsine eB io et igi we: 42
When to water. . . . . «© 6 © «© « «© « 43

How to watef.. 0 <3 3) a: ww ee Oe ww 9D
Temperature of water . 2. 2 2 © © «© © «© «© - 44
WE: Waters os pe Sew ee How Sek wy) nein Wh Bee eee. Gee Rha Me AS

Removal of -drip: se.) veo i ek es oes we ww, HS
Syringing . . Bo o> cat ee te ee HO
Washing of leaves So BR ee ee Ne Gy SS wee

V. FERTILIZERS . . 2 we s #4 ee we 249
Chemical elements necessary or eeewilits ee RO = AD)
Application of fertilizers. . . 2. 1. 2. . « «© «© «© SI

Kinds of fertilizers. . Sr ee eas: er Yer see SSL
Natural manures should be well aeted ae Kop Bd: We GE SEPA
Natural manures for potting . . . . 2. 2. es « 53
Uses of chemical fertilizers. . . eae ee SB
Liquid fertilizers from natural manures. . . . . «© 55
CAUHOHS:) 2) Bo -@- oS, Ses ae BL E. ieee, Boe GO

- VI. Licghot, Heat AND VENTILATION . . . 6 es ew ee 87
Bight’ si ae ee Fa a OR ce a SZ.
CONTENTS—Continued

CHAPTER

Necessity of light .
Efforts to secure light

Amount of light necessary

Selection governed by light .

Temperature

Selection governed iy jennperatine

Ventilation . .

VII. Insect Enemies .
Destruction dependent upon ‘habits

Kinds of insects

The enemies of house plants

Plant-lice
The scale
The mealy-bug .
The red spider .
The earthworm

VIII. PropaGaTIon By SEED .

Selection of seed .
Cause of failures .

Vessels for the sowing of seed
Seed-boxes; their construction .

Soil and its preparation .

Watering of soil . .
Planting of the seed .
Care after planting .
Diseases of seedlings .
Potting of seedlings .
Planting in pots . .
Planting in boxes. .

Advantages of cuttings
Kinds of cuttings .
Selection of cuttings .
Preparation of cuttings
Propagating-boxes

. PRoPAGATION By CUTTINGS .
CONTENTS—Continued

CHAPTER Pace
The soil. . ty Bah. Tiss MEE. ee Sp a, AE, Se ae GS, ee EOE
Filling of Hones dp ide ets. Ge Monten: aan tars Bie Ss 332-7 GT
Insertion of cuttings. 2. 2. 2. 1. 1 ew ee ew ee OL
Gate of cuttings: 4 4% 4 os a we SB we wom oe O2

X. Buss ahs muse Ne, Osh ie Fy ohne a Re ae OA
Uses of bulbous slants gi Gk cho rl: Mire a tet. “Slider to 2 9d
Kinds for forcing «0 «© = 2 « * © @ * » © « 64
Selection of bulbs. 2. . 1. . we we ee ee 8S
The soil . BM Rs ee EAP Se eT oe wee OZ
Depth of planting’. Se ie Ake Fa WR BR Rae ce a EOF
Pottingof balbs «2. a . «© eo. aw 2 6 a = OB
Number of bulbs to pot. . . 2. 2. 1. ew eee 99

Storage of bulbs; cellar fe ws AE ee a a! Se 209
Storage in garden. . . ba ee ee a 8 TO
Time tovplant a 2 S42 aoe x. a we eae 8 we OR
When to force bulbs . 2 dan we le, OR ee ae DOB

Kinds for forcing . : ie ith Hee a eh ws dct, eee HOB,
The: Hyacinth: . 4. Ae Se ee ww wt OB
The: Tulip: 20 4a a ee a ew we eS
The Narcissus. . yo oe ee ee Se a
The Lily-of-the- Paley to he ee ES Ga .
MRE Presta ose eS we ok TO
The Lilies

: 109

XI. Fottace Plants < @ TIT
Asparagus oy Be hee grads Se Se, Brees. Se
INSPIGISEE A -ser oF SSS apes ap dnc ate a te EEGs es eh ee: Se TE
APAUCATIA.. we a, ca Rl Wao de nh dome we eae oe ES

Cyperus’ «46 ae ee a ce ww ew TO
Ferms: 2. eo Rk OO Re a ee ET:
Grevillea . . 2. 2. . * «E21
Paltit$:. 04> 2) Sp. ar ce ao GAD Ae Se Se Gin eT
Pandanws:. <q. Ascssef, Ge ver Se es Sp ok: Ge. oS ae Ue ERS
Rubbégsia. goo Ge oe ee Bee) a Se we Se SE
Tradescantia~ s 2 < % *& 4 % & Bs 6 « << = 28

XII. Frowerinc Prants. . 2. 2. ww ee eee TQ

Amaryllis Sot a ie sat ee eae ald Sel ed “et an Sq)
CHAPTER
Azalea
Begonia .
Calla Lily
Cactus
Carnations

CONTENTS—Continued

PaGE
we SE ee ROR Gt can ee ee a TZ
opty Were gy Vv ae im Se, A ie de Sey DB 2:
64°C Sas west* Je wiapa Se es ote ar es “he CS

ie. HE BE OR ee hk ce ep a eB
Se a a OA Ge a 8G:

Chrysanthemums . . . 6. 2 6 6 6 6 + © © « 137

Cyclamens
Fuchsias
Geraniums

Heliotropes .

Impatiens

Oxalis
Poinsettia
Primula .

Roses.
Saxifraga

omen d Sovak, Miah: Gch: eh SeeAO
Os», cal Sash ee See leo a Ge dose? ce, a GAT

bg Ae AOR SOR eS
oh veiesay, sor, GaSe 4a, eto ok,
See ER a ae te ea we)

ee Re aE a a Se et ESE

Si, Be HOURS “308: Salen See SR RG Ree aie ey OP, BAGSA
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
An Attractive Window Garden . . . . Frontispiece

Fig. 1. The standard pot, the azalea or fern pot and the seed
pan 3

Fig. 2. A good acs ‘avcher é

Fig. 3. A rustic basket filled with Tradeseautis., ;

Fig. 4. A fernery with an inner part to hold the ati ‘

Fig. 5. A useful jardiniére . - :

Fig. 6. Shifting, ready for the new ‘gat

Fig. 7. Removing a plant from the pot

Fig. 8. The potting of a cutting

Fig. 9. A dormant Poinsettia pruned sid. dena flee geroie

Fig. 10. The effect of different soils upon plant growth. The
Geranium in (1) black loam, (2) clay, and (3) sand

Fig. 11. Result of using wet soil. .

Fig. 12, The effects of neglect . . 2. . 1... ...

Fig.13. The Cyperus . . des Fe, eR ko ee

Fig. 14. The effects of epususted sail ae Sarl theo b &

Fig. 15. Same plant as in Fig. 14, six weeks later, altet four
applications of chemical fertilizer . Sahib Ze

Fig.16. The Boston fern . . . 5 as

Fig. 17. Sun-loving and shade- losis alanis iiiiead. in the
same window ‘

Fig. 18. The tip of a Fuchsia ee domed by she mealy-bug

Fig. 19. Plant-lice . . . cient RY, ae ae

Fig. 20. Scales on a palm ead & aXe; eer ee: “GP uate ke 1

Fig. 21. The mealy-bug . . .

Fig. 22. A seed-box, showing the shee ‘of ‘ald. dene aaeed
with tresh. 2. a8 Ge ee ee,

Fig. 23. Primroses raised from seed . . . . .

Fig. 24. Four months old geranium from cutting . . .

Fig. 25. Selection and preparation of acutting . . . . .

Fig. 26. Protection against loss of moisture. . .. .

6

8
12
14
16
23
25
27
31

33
40
44
47
50

54
59

62
67
69
71
73

78
82
86
88

89
Fig. 27.
Fig. 28.
Fig. 29.
Fig. 30.
Fig. 31.
Fig. 32.
Fig. 33.
Fig. 34.
Fig. 35.
Fig. 36.
Fig. 37.
Fig. 38.
Fig. 39.
Fig. 40.
Fig. 41.
Fig. 42.
Fig. 43.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS—Continucd

An inexpensive propagating-box . . . .
What a first size Hyacinth bulb will do .
Murillo, the queen of Tulips . . 2. . .
The Narcissus . SreGieucioe is

The Easter Lily

Asparagus sprengeri BO ee ek, ook? Ge
The Aspidistra . « « « & & # & #
The Pierson fern . 2

Ferns suitable for the fecney,

Grevillea robusta . A

Kentia belmoreana as a feaae aAt & ap
Rubber plant three months after cutting back .
The Azalea 3

The old and new forms of Cyatien. persed
The old favorite .

The Impatiens :

Primula obconica . . . - 2. 6 2. ©

Pace
go
95

. 107
. 110
. 113
. 114
. 118
. 120
. 122
. 123
. 127
s 131
» 139
- 143
- 146
. 150
AUTHOR’S PREFACE

In presenting this book to the public, it has been the
aim of the writer to give such cultural directions as will
enable the inexperienced to overcome most of the diffi-
culties which arise in the growing of plants in the win-
dow garden. An extended experience in the handling
of house plants has led to a recognition of the cquses
underlying these difficulties, and an effort has been
made in the following pages to suggest methods of
treatment which will enable the grower to care for his
plants intelligently and insure a fair measure of suc-
cess. Of course, if the grower still insists upon dosing
his plants with castor-oil or watering them with boiling
water, or using various chemical nostrums, he need not
‘be disappointed if his attempts result in failure.

As this book is intended for general use it must of
necessity be extremely concise in statement and some-
what restricted in scope, but, with a little thought, the
directions here given may easily be varied to fit any-
ordinary conditions.

In the chapters on flowering and foliage plants, only
the more common and suitable forms are discussed.
Besides those enumerated, many other and rarer forms
may be found which are suitable for the window gar-
den, but these are so little used that they have been
omitted.

The cultural directions given are equally applicable
to the window garden and the small conservatory. It
is hoped that the book will commend itself to school-
teachers and owners of small conservatories, as well as
to the grower of plants in the windows of the dwelling.

The photographs used for the illustrations were pre-
pared, under the direction of the author, by Mr. O. L.
Foster, a commercial photographer of Lafayette, In-
diana.

The writer also wishes to acknowledge his indebted-
ness to Professor Stanley Coulter for many kind sug-

gestions and criticisms.
HERMAN B. DoRNER.

Lafayette, Indiana.
EDITOR’S PREFACE

There exists at present a fair consensus of opinion as
to the significance and limitations of nature study. As
a result of this agreement pedagogical values are being
rapidly worked out, and the subject has passed from
the experimental stage into an assured and important
position in the schools, While it is now generally rec-
ognized that the materials used in nature study not only
may, but should, vary widely, since the conditions sur-
rounding schools in different localities are variant, the
fact remains true that in the main a large part of this
material will be drawn from plant and animal life.

Because of the more definite and clear-cut concep-
tions of the function of nature study in our educational
system there has arisen a demand for a literature of the
subject differing somewhat widely from that of former
years,—a literature which shall treat concisely, yet
clearly and comprehensively, the methods which un-
derlie the successful use of certain specific materials,
and which will at the same time serve to suggest meth-
ods of organizing other material, This hand-book is an
attempt to meet one of these imperative demands.

The attempt upon the part of teachers in charge of
nature-study work to grow plants in the school-room is
almost universal, and the failure to secure satisfactory
results is almost equally universal. Such work is not
merely attractive, it is highly educative, and Window
Gardening is issued in the hope that through fuller
knowledge of the vital necessities of growing plants, of
the adverse conditions which obtain in the school-room,
and of the enemies more commonly attacking house
plants, these frequent failures may be avoided.

The author, Mr. Herman B. Dorner, has especial fit-
ness for the work assigned him, not only because of a
thorough scientific training, but also because of years
of practical experience in the handling of plants in an
establishment of wide reputation for its successful
methods in plant-breeding and culture. It will be seen
that the book appeals as strongly to those growing
plants in the home or in small conservatories as to
teachers, and to all such it is also commended with con-
fidence as of high practical value.

STANLEY COULTER.

Purdue University, August I, 1907.
WINDOW GARDENING
WINDOW GARDENING

INTRODUCTION

WINDOW GARDENING IN GENERAL

i

Of late years the reports of the florists show
a renewed interest in window gardening.
More plants for this purpose are purchased
each season and the demand for new varieties
increases from year to year. To supply this
demand, the florist is each year adding to his
stock many new forms which are vastly superior
to the forms grown a quarter of a century ago.

Not only do well-grown plants add beauty
to the house, but their care -affords to their
owner a restful relaxation from other duties.
The attention given to the plants from day to
day, the noting of additional growth and the
development of the flowers, afford many pleas-
ant moments when the outer world is covered
with snow.
WINDOW GARDENING

CAUSES OF FAILURE

There are three causes to which may be at-
tributed nearly all failures in window garden-
ing. The first of these is a lack of knowledge
of the vital necessities of plants. Many people
think that thrusting the plant or seed into the
soil is all that is necessary, little realizing that
the plant requires food and water and that
when the supply of these in the soil is exhausted,
a new supply of each must be provided. One
should know something of the habits and neces-
sities of plants in order to be able to care for
them in an intelligent manner and to secure the
best results.

SELECTION OF PLANTS

The second cause of failure is the selection of
plants unsuitable for the rooms in which they
are to be kept. The chief unfavorable con-
ditions to be contended with in the window
garden are dry air, dust and uneven temper-
ature. The plants selected should evidently
be forms able to withstand these conditions.

@
INTRODUCTION

The temperature and light conditions should
also be considered in the selection of plants.
If the rooms are so warm as to be unbearable
to the average human being, it is folly to expect
success with plants requiring a cool atmos-
phere. On the other hand, forms requiring a
rather high temperature will not do well in a
cool room.

It should be remembered that where the
windows receive no sunshine, it is almost useless
to attempt to grow the ordinary flowering
plants; it is far wiser to select shade-loving
foliage plants. Study the requirements of the
plants, study the exposure of the windows and
then select those forms which are suitable for
the conditions.

In making a selection of plants it should
be taken into consideration that a number of
forms offered by the florist are merely tem-
porary additions to the window garden and that
when their flowering season is over they should
be discarded. ‘They are intended to serve the
same purpose as a vase of cut flowers, having,
however, a much longer period of attractive-

3
WINDOW GARDENING

ness—a point which is valuable and well worth
considering.

NEGLECT

The third and probably the most common
cause of failure is neglect. Plants require as
careful attention as do pet animals, and should
receive daily care. A few days of neglect may
permanently ruin a handsome specimen. It
does not lengthen the life of a plant to water it
at those occasional times when it happens to
be remembered; if the plant lives and thrives,
it should receive the proper amount of water at
the proper time. This does not mean that it
should be watered every day but that it should
be looked after every day and watered when
necessary.
CHAPTER I
CONTAINERS

One of the first requisites in order to secure
the best results in plant culture, is to know
something about the vessels in which plants
may be grown and how these vessels should be
used. There are reasons why, in the majority
of cases, some vessels give better results than:
others, and the knowledge of these reasons’
should determine the type of containing ves-
sel selected.

EARTHEN POTS

Perhaps of all the vessels upon the market for
plant growing, the common unglazed earthen
pot, used by the florist, is the best. Its porosity,
convenient shape and numerous sizes, make
it preferable. to all others. ‘These pots are
made of a uniform and convenient shape which

5
WINDOW GARDENING

allows the ready removal of the plant without
any injury to the roots, and greatly facilitates
transplanting.

The pot should be porous for at least two
reasons. First, it allows the surplus water to
evaporate from the outer surface and thus helps .

 

 

 

 

Fig. 1. The standard pot, the azalea or fern pot and the
seed pan

to keep the soil sweet by causing it to dry out
more rapidly; second, it allows the air to
enter the soil and so come in contact with
the roots. Any form of glazed pot, therefore,
which will prevent the evaporation of the ex-
cess of moisture from the soil and which will
exclude the air from the roots should be avoided.

6

 
CONTAINERS

Avoid the use of all pots which are burned
so hard as to make them impervious. All
painted pots should also be rejected as the paint
closes the pores. Both of these types produce
the same results as glazed pots.

KINDS OF POTS

There are several kinds of pots manufactured
and each has its uses. ‘The first to be con-
sidered is the standard pot, the one most com-
monly used both by florists and amateurs. (Fig.
1.) This pot is made with a depth equal to
the diameter at the top. The standard is used
for nearly all kinds of plants and especially
for those which have large and deep root sys-
tems.

The second type is the azalea or fern pot,
which has a depth of about three-fourths the
diameter at the top. (Fig. 1.) These pots are
especially valuable for such plants as have
shallow root systems and for the forcing of
many kinds of bulbs.

The third type is the seed pan. These are
made quite shallow and are used for growing

7
WINDOW GARDENING

seedlings and small bulbs, such as the crocus.
Seed pans either round or square in shape are
upon the market.

These three types of pots are the most desira-
ble for use in plant culture in the window gar-
den.

DEVICES FOR CATCHING DRIP

Wherever pots are used some provision
should be made for catching the drip or surplus

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 2. A good drip catcher

water from the opening in the bottom. Where
only a few plants are grown and when they are

8
CONTAINERS

not massed, the individual saucer is the best.
The saucers are made of the same material as
the pots and in corresponding sizes. (Fig. 2.)

Where several plants are to be grown in the
same window, a tray of zinc or galvanized
iron may be made to fit the space utilized.
This pan should be made water-tight and
should have a depth of at least two inches. It
should be filled with sand and the plants set
upon it. The sand absorbs all of the surplus
water drained from the pots. The frontispiece
shows the use of such a tray.

There are several advantages in this device.
First, it prevents the soil from drying out too
rapidly; thus keeping a more even degree of
moisture and so benefiting the plants; second,
it allows of spraying without wetting the floor;
third, it aids in keeping the atmosphere moist.

WINDOW BOXES

Where it is desired to fill the entire window
with plants, boxes may be used to advantage.
These are often advocated since when filled
with a number of different plants well selected

9
WINDOW GARDENING

and well cared for, they make an exceedingly
attractive window. However, boxes have their
disadvantages. Their large size makes them
difficult to handle, a fact annoying when a
fall in temperature makes removal frem the
window a necessity. Again, unless the box
is so shaped as to permit turning about, the
plants will have a tendency to turn toward the
light and thus present a bare side to the room.
Plants in pots, on the other hand, may be turned
often to secure a symmetrical growth.

Window boxes may also serve another pur-
pose. Where it is desired to keep the plants in
pots, the boxes may serve as receptacles for
moss or sand in which the pots may be partly
buried. In this way the box serves the same
purpose as the tray filled with sand.

STRUCTURE OF WINDOW BOX

If a box is used it should have a width of
from eight to fourteen inches; its length being
determined by the window space. The inside
depth should not exceed five inches. These
boxes may be made of ordinary lumber and

10
CONTAINERS

either painted or covered with paper or cloth.

Several holes should be bored in the bottom
of the completed box to provide for the drain-
ing off of any surplus water from the soil.
This necessitates the provision of some device
to’ catch the drip. This may be best accom-
plished by the use of a galvanized iron or zinc
pan made just a trifle larger than the box. In
placing the box in the pan, put a small block
under each corner in order to raise the base
from one-half to one inch above the bottom of
the pan. This prevents the box from standing
in the water. The pan should be provided
with some device for draining off the water,
or made sufficiently large to permit its removal
by means of a sponge.

HANGING BASKETS

Hanging baskets are always an attractive ad-
dition to the window garden, in which they may
be suspended either from the ceiling or from
brackets upon side walls. In summer they may
be removed from the window and used to orna-
ment the porch.

II
WINDOW GARDENING

Certain trailing plants show to their best ad-
vantage only when grown in suspended baskets.

KINDS OF BASKETS

Hanging baskets of several different kinds
are found upon the market. Earthenware
baskets both in plain and rustic shapes are often

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 3. A rustic basket filled with Tradescantia

used. One of the favorite types is that made of

wire, (Fig. 92.) When filled, it should first

be lined with sheet or wood moss with the upper
12
CONTAINERS

side out. Where wood moss can not be se-
cured, the basket may be lined with sphagnum
moss, such as the florists use in packing plants
for shipping. This is not so satisfactory, how-
ever, as the sphagnum is made up of loose pieces,
which are liable to slip between the wires.
After lining, the basket should be filled in the
same way as an ordinary pot. Both sheet and
sphagnum moss may usually be secured from
the florist. Sheet moss may often be found in
dense woods, growing over decaying logs.

Square rustic baskets may also be purchased,
or they may be easily made from pieces of
branches or saplings from one-half to three-
fourths inches thick. The corners should be
held together by a wire passing through them
and made doubly secure by nailing. Rustic
baskets should be lined with moss in the same
manner as wire baskets. Fig. 3 shows a home-
made rustic basket.

Where it is impossible to secure a regular
basket, an ordinary flower pot may readily be
converted into a basket by the use of wire pot-
hangers.

ts
WINDOW GARDENING

FERNERIES

Ferneries when properly made consist of two
parts: an inner porous one, in which the ferns
are planted, and an outer part, usually decor-

 

Fig. 4. A fernery with an inner part to hold the plants

ated. The inner part is provided with holes in
the bottom for drainage while the outer one is
watertight to prevent the water from running

14
CONTAINERS

over the table upon which it is placed.

Where the fernery is not provided with an
inner pot, this lack may be remedied by having
one made of tin or zinc. Care should be taken
to see that it is so constructed as to permit of
easy removal and that it is provided with sev-
eral holes for drainage. When such recep-
tacles are used, watering must be done very
cautiously as there is danger of over-watering.

JAPANESE POTS AND TUBS

The decorated, glazed pots of the Japanese
type that are provided with holes in the bottom,
may also be used, but care in watering must be
observed in this case also.

Where the plant is of a large size, a wooden
tub with handles makes a good container.

OTHER DEVICES

Many have great success in growing their
plants in old tin cans and buckets but the suc-
cess in such cases is due to the care, since a
plant grown in a tin can and well taken care
of will thrive much better than one in the best

15
WINDOW GARDENING

 

    
  
        
    

/

ll iy 4} // Zi

WS we
l} AY I

     

-

A

   

 

 

 

Fig. 5. A useful jardiniére

16
CONTAINERS

of pots which is neglected. Such improvised
containers should be provided with good drain-
age and care should be exercised in watering.

JARDINIERES AND THEIR USES

Jardiniéres are not made to hold soil but to
hold pots in which the soil is placed. They
are nearly all glazed and are never provided
with outlets for water. In addition to being
ornamental, they also serve to catch the drip
from the pot and to prevent excessive evapo-
ration.

NECESSITY OF DRAINAGE

Whatever the type of the vessel in which
plants are grown, there should always be open-
ings in the bottom to permit the escape of the
surplus moisture in the soil after watering.
When the proper drainage is not provided, the
soil becomes water soaked, the air is prevented
from coming in contact with the roots, the soil
becomes sour and the roots die. As a result,
the plant begins to droop, loses its leaves and
soon dies.

17
CHAPTER. [1
POTTING

It is too often thought that, in potting, all that
is necessary is to place the plant in the pot,
throw in a little soil, press it down lightly and
the work is done. This may answer for some
very hardy plants, but most of them are lable
to suffer from such treatment. To do potting
with any degree of intelligence and assurance
of success one must know something of the re-
quirements of the plants under the special con-
ditions involved.

EFFECT OF THE SIZE OF POT

In potting the first thing to do is to determine
the size of the pot required by the plant. It is
often thought that by giving plants large pots
and plenty of soil, they will grow much better.
This is a mistaken idea. A plant grown in a

18
POTTING

pot should have just enough soil to secure its
best development. Where the pot is too large,
the amount of soil is too great and holds more
water than can be used by the plant. As a re-
sult, the soil remains wet for a long time and
becomes sour and where the soil becomes sour,
decay of the root soon follows and the plant, in-
stead of thriving, drops its leaves and soon dies.

It is much better to use smaller pots and as the
roots fill them, to shift the plants to larger pots.
In this manner the amount of soil is not too
great and the conditions are under better con-
trol. The growth is also more rapid and in the
same length of time a much greater size is at-
tained. On the other hand, pots which are too
small should not be used, as the amount of water
the soil will hold is soon exhausted and, unless
carefully watched, the roots will be killed by
becoming too dry.

WHAT DETERMINES SIZE OF POT
The size of the pot is determined by two
things — the size of the root system and the size
of the top. If the plants are already growing

19
WINDOW GARDENING

in pots and the roots are becoming matted in
the bottom, it is time to shift to larger pots.
The condition of the roots may be easily de-
termined by turning the plant out of the pot.
When ready for shifting the pot selected should
be a size or two larger than the old one.

When the plant is one that has just been lifted
from the garden, the pot selected should be
sufficiently large to receive the roots without
crowding. If any variation from this is neces-
sary it is better to have the pot a little smaller
than would seem to be required until the plant
is well established.

VALUE OF GOOD DRAINAGE

One of the essential things in potting is to
provide good drainage. By this it is meant
that the surplus water must have a chance of
escaping easily from the soil. Where the
drainage is poor, the excess of water is held in
the pot and prevents the air from reaching the
roots. The result of this is that the small feed-
ing roots are killed, decay follows and extends
to the larger roots and growth ceases. Poor

20
POTTING

drainage is also the most frequent cause of sour
soil in pots.

HOW DRAINAGE MAY BE SECURED

There are numerous ways in which good
drainage may be secured. Where the plant is
a strong grower, all that is necessary is to place
a single piece of broken pot over the bottom.
This piece should be two or three times the
diameter of the opening and should be placed
with its concave side down. This prevents the
opening from being closed entirely and the
water escapes easily under the edges. This
method is all that is necessary for three to four
inch pots and is usually all that is required for
larger pots where the plants have large and
strong root systems. Pots from two to three
inches in diameter require no drainage, as both
the openings and the amount of soil are small.

The best method to secure perfect drainage
and the one that should be used for all slow-
growing and woody plants, is to place a frag-
ment of an earthenware pot over the bottom as
indicated above and then to cover this fragment

aT
WINDOW GARDENING

with smaller pieces. ‘This allows a free passage
of the water and also permits air to enter and
come in contact with the roots.

Many other materials may be used for this
purpose. Where broken pot pieces are not
available, soft brick, broken into fragments the
size of filberts, forms a good substitute. Char-
coal makes an excellent material for this pur-
pose and gravel, sphagnum moss and cinders
may also be used. :

An inch of drainage material is all that is
necessary for a five or six inch pot. For all
sizes over six inches in diameter about two
inches should be used.

SHIFTING OF PLANTS

By shifting is meant the transfer of plants
from smaller to larger pots. This should be
done whenever the roots have filled the old pot.
If it is not done the plant becomes pot-bound
and this is followed by a stunted growth, the
production of smali leaves and the loss of the
older ones. In some cases, as with certain
blooming plants, it is best to let the plants be-

22
POTTING

 

 

 

 

Fig. 6. Shifting; ready for the new pot.

come pot-bound as it is only under such con-
ditions that they bloom freely. In this case in-
stead of shifting the plant it is fed freely.

If the plant to be shifted is in a healthy grow-
ing condition use a pot a size or two larger
than the original container, being governed of
course by the size of the plant.

REMOVAL OF PLANT FROM POT

The first operation, in shifting, is to remove
the plant from the pot. To do this place the
left hand over the top of the pot with the stem

23
WINDOW GARDENING

between the index and middle fingers. This is
to prevent the plant from falling when it
loosens from the pot. Now grasp the pot
firmly with the right hand, invert and strike
the rim a sharp blow on the edge of some
wooden object. This jars the ball of earth
loose from the pot, which, as it falls, is held by ,
the left hand. (Fig. 7.)

Never cut a plant out of the pot, in doing so
many of the larger roots are cut and injured.

SHOULDERING

The next operation is to “shoulder” the ball.
In doing this, remove with the thumb and fore-
finger all of the soil from the top of the ball
down to where the main mass of roots begins.
The object is to remove as much of the old soil
as possible and to replace it with new, thus se-
curing all the benefit possible from the shift.

LOOSENING OF ROOTS

The roots at the bottom should next be loos-
ened in order to bring them more closely in con-
tact with the new nutrient mixture. If the

24.
 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 7. Removing a plant from the pot
WINDOW .GARDENING

plant has a dense mat of roots surrounding the
ball, tear off most of the fine ones. This causes
the old roots to “break” sooner, thus sending
numerous feeding roots into the new soil. Fig.
6 shows an asparagus plant prepared and ready
for planting.

POTTING THE PLANT

Having prepared the plant for shifting, place
the drainage material in the larger pot and add
some soil. Press this soil down firmly and then
place the plant in position, using care to spread
the loosened roots somewhat. When resting
on this cushion of soil the old ball should be
just a trifle lower, for most plants, than it was
in the old pot. Now, holding the plant in
position with one hand, add a small amount of
soil with the other. Still holding the plant
carefully in position, raise the pot about an inch
or so from the table and bring it down with
a sharp rap in order to jar the soil into place.
After jarring the soil into place, pack it down
gently but firmly with a thin stick. Keep
adding more soil and packing until the pot is

26
POTTING

full. After adding the last soil finish packing
by using the thumb and fingers. (Fig. 8.)
Care should be taken to leave enough space

 

 

 

Fig. 8. The potting of a cutting

between the surface of the soil and the top of
the pot for water. For a six-inch pot there
should be a space of at least three-fourths of an
inch and in other sizes a proportional space
should be left.

IMPLEMENT FOR FIRMING THE SOIL

The stick used for firming the soil should be
thin enough to pass readily down between the
ball of soil and the sides of the pot. If too

27
WINDOW GARDENING

large it will break and injure the roots. A
good form may be made by using a thin piece
of board about one inch wide and whittling it
down to about three-sixteenths or one-fourth of
an inch in thickness. (Fig. 6.)

POTTING OF SMALL PLANTS

In potting small plants with no soil on the
roots, as in the case of cuttings, the soil is
“firmed” entirely with the thumbs. The pot
should be filled from one-half to two-thirds full
of soil, the amount depending upon the depth
to which the plant is to be inserted. After
pressing the soil down firmly with the fingers,
place the plant in position, using care to spread
the roots, and then fill the pot with soil. Now
grasping the pot tightly, as in Fig. 8, pack the
soil down firmly with the thumbs, being care-
ful not to press against the stem. If the pot is
not full enough after this operation add more
soil.

TRANSPLANTING FROM GARDEN

Plants which have been growing in the gar-
den during the summer and which are to be

28
POTTING

used in the window garden during the winter,
should be lifted at least two weeks before be-
ing taken inside and should not be allowed to
become frosted. Lift the plants carefully with
a spade, going rather deep so as to secure a
good mass of roots. If a large amount of soil
clings to the roots, the ball should be reduced
in size until it is less in diameter than the pot in
which it is to be placed. The size of the pot
to be used must be governed by the size of the
root system and should be sufficiently large to
preclude danger of crowding the roots.

The operation in this case is the same as that
employed in shifting, except that the fingers are
more used in packing the soil, especially in cases
where the soil has fallen away from the roots.
Care should be taken to set the plant in the
center of the pot.

Water thoroughly and keep out of doors in
a shaded place until there is danger of frost.

REPOTTING

Plants that are sickly looking, because of sour
soil, drying out, over-watering, freezing or in-

29
WINDOW GARDENING

sects, will often recover if repotted.: By re-
potting is meant the removing of most of the old
soil and potting again in the same or a smaller
pot. To do this remove the plant from the pot
and, by means of the fingers, break away most
of the old soil. If many of the roots have
decayed, the rotted parts should be cut off.
When the root system has been greatly reduced
by this operation the plants should be placed in
smaller pots until they recover.

After repotting, the plant should at first be
thoroughly watered and afterward more spar-
ingly until it shows signs of recovery.

REPOTTING OF DORMANT PLANTS

The best time to repot a dormant plant, or
one that has a resting period, is just before
growth begins. The next best time is just be-
fore growth ceases. The object is to give it as
much fresh soil as is possible when it is forming
new roots. Knock the plant from the pot and
remove all the soil possible without injury to
the main roots. Loosen the roots and replant
in the same pot or one a size larger, water

30
POTTING

thoroughly at first and then more sparingly
until growth has begun. (Fig. 9.)

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 9. A dormant poinsettia pruned and ready for repotting

POT-BOUND PLANTS

Where plants in large pots have become pot-
bound and it is not desired to shift to larger
pots, they may be kept in a good condition by
the application of liquid fertilizer.

31
CHAPTER 1
SOILS

Soil, or the substance in which plants are
grown, is composed mainly of minute fragments
of mineral matter and decayed vegetable and
animal matter. In the life history of the plant
it serves three purposes. First, it acts merely
as a medium of support in maintaining the
position of the plant; second, it serves as a
reservoir for the storing of water for the use
of the plant; third, it is the source of the min-
eral elements which go to build up the plant
structure.

TYPES OF SOIL

Soils, as considered by the florist, are of three
main types, namely: sand, clay and humus.
‘Various combinations of these three types give
soils suitable for all plants.

32
SOILS’

 

Fig. 10. The effect of different soils upon plant growth. The
geranium in (1) black loam, (2) clay, and (3) sand

SAND

A sandy soil is one which contains from 80 to
100 per cent. of pure quartz sand. A soil of
this type furnishes very little nourishment and
although it absorbs a large amount of water it
drys out very readily. Sand forms the best
medium in which to root cuttings, for cuttings
require little or no nourishment until roots are
formed. Again, fungus diseases do not de-

33
WINDOW GARDENING

velop so readily in sandy soils—a fact of great
importance in growing cuttings and seedlings.

CLAY

A clay soil contains from Io to 20 per cent. of
sand and, without the admixture of additional
sand, makes a poor soil in which to grow plants.
Although it contains an abundance of nutrient
substances and absorbs a great deal of water,
both are held so tenaciously by the soil particles
that they are taken up with difficulty by the
plant. The roots, also, have difficulty in pene-
trating the soil, owing to’ the compactness due
to the extremely small size of the soil particles.
Mixed, however, with some substance that will
increase its porosity it makes an ideal soil.

HUMUS

Humus is decayed vegetable matter and may
be divided into two classes—vegetable mold and
peat. Vegetable mold or leaf mold, as it is
commonly called, is composed of plant remains
decayed in comparatively dry earth, as in the
surface coverings of the forests. Peat, on the

34
SOILS

other hand, is made up of the remains of plants
decayed under the water of bogs and swamps.

Neither form of humus can be used alone, as
both are deficient in certain nutrient substances
necessary to secure good growth. Although
too light and open to be used alone, they are
excellent to mix with stiffer soils in order to
make them more porous.

MIXED SOILS

The largest part of our soil does not belong to
any of these three types but is a mixture of them.
A mixed soil is the one that gives the best results
as it contains not only the substances necessary
for good plant growth, but also the proper
physical properties. Some soils are in fairly
definite combinations, and have special names.

LOAM

A loam is a soil containing from 40 to 60 per
cent. of sand, the remainder being clay. Often
a part of the clay and sand is replaced by humus
and the soil has a black appearance. This is
spoken of as black loam. A loam of this kind
makes a suitable soil for most plants.

35
WINDOW GARDENING

SANDY LOAM
Where the soil contains from 60 to 80 per
cent. of sand, it is called a sandy /oam and makes
an excellent soil for succulent plants.

CLAY LOAM

A soil that contains from 20 to 40 per cent.
sand is called a clay /oam and makes a good
foundation soil for large and strongly rooting
plants.

WHERE TO SECURE SOILS FOR POTTING

Good soils for potting purposes may be
secured in most gardens and cultivated fields,
but the best is prepared by cutting thick sods,
piling them up and allowing them to rot. A
compost heap so formed should be allowed to
stand at least six months so as to have it well
rotted. Where this is impossible the sod
should be thoroughly broken up and shaken out
so as to secure and retain all the fibrous parts
possible. The only part to be discarded is the
heart or crown which 1s likely to grow again
under favorable conditions.

36
SOILS

Leaf-mold may be secured in any uncleared
wood where the leaves have a chance to decay.
The upper partly decayed leaves should be
removed and the light soil just beneath secured.
Leaf-mold from a forest of soft or mixed forms
is much to be preferred to that from an oak
forest, as the latter contains a considerable
amount of tannin. In securing leaf-mold the
decayed remains of old logs or stumps should
not be taken as they are of little value.

Peat may be collected from a bog or swamp,
but it is best to secure it from a florist, already
prepared for use. It is used for practically the
same purposes as leaf-mold.

SIFTING OF SOIL

No soil for potting purposes should ever be
sifted unless it is for very small pots. Even
then it is best when broken very fine and un-
screened. When screened the sieve used should
never be finer than four meshes to the inch.
Screening has a tendency to make the soil so
fine that in potting it packs too closely and
soon cakes and becomes very hard. When

37
WINDOW GARDENING

merely broken up the small pieces help to keep
the soil open and porous. Soil should never
be screened when wet.

SOILS FOR POTTING

Although most plants require a special kind
of soil, there are three types that may be used
for all kinds of house plants. Some growers
advocate the use of one kind of soil for all house
plants and while most plants will grow in the
ordinary garden soil, the best results can only
be secured by the use of specialized soils.
Three formulas which may be easily prepared
are here suggested.

Formula No. 1.—To three parts of rotted sod
or good garden soil add one part well rotted
stable manure; cow manure to be preferred.
Where the soil used is a rather heavy one, one-
half part of sand may be added. Mix thor-
oughly so that the manure is well broken up
and evenly distributed.

This soil is best adapted for rapidly growing
plants, such as the geranium, but where only one

38
SOILS

kind of soil is to be used it will be found to serve
well for most plants.

Formula No. 2— To two parts of loam add
one part leaf-mold or peat. If a clay loam
is used instead of a loam, one-half part of sand
should be added and the mass should be thor-
oughly mixed.

This forms an excellent soil for plants such
as ferns, azaleas, and begonias, which have
numerous fibrous roots. Plants of this type re-
quire little or no fertilizer as long as the soil is
not worn out.

Formula No. 3.—To two parts clay loam add
one part well rotted manure, mixing thoroughly
to secure perfect distribution. This gives a
rich and rather heavy soil suitable for roses,
palms and similar plants.

When well-rotted stable manure is not to be
had and it is necessary to depend upon chemical
fertilizers in the formulas calling for manure,
some sand should be added to lighten the soil.
Chemical fertilizers should be added according
to the directions accompanying them.

39
WINDOW GARDENING

MOISTURE CONDITION OF POTTING SOIL

Care must be taken not to have the potting
soil too wet or too dry. If the soil is too wet
there is great danger of packing it so tight in
the pots that the roots have great difficulty in
penetrating it. If, on the other hand, it be too

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 11. Result of using wet soil

dry it can not be packed firmly enough. Fig.
11 shows a hyacinth that was potted in wet soil
which packed so hard that the roots, being
unable to penetrate it, lifted the bulb out of the

pot.
40
SOILS

Soil, to have the correct degree of moisture,
should readily fall apart again after having
been compressed in the hand, yet should be moist
enough to retain its form. Under no conditions
should wet soil ve used for potting purposes.
CHAPTER IV
WATERING

Watering, more than any other one factor,
determines success or failure in window gar-
dening. Where little attention is given to the
watering and the plants are only cared for
when the owner happens to think of them, poor
plants are always the result. On the other hand,
many failures are due to over attention to this
detail. To secure the best results the plants
must be kept under constant observation and
watered whenever they require it and then
watered thoroughly.

RESULTS OF OVER AND UNDER WATERING

The results of over- and under-watering are
almost identical, as both end in injury to the
root-system and a loss of the leaves. Where a
plant is over-watered the root-system is unable

aa
WATERING

to absorb all of the moisture, the soil becomes
water-soaked, air is excluded and, as a result,
the roots decay. As the root-system decreases,
the leaves which are dependent upon it for their
food soon turn yellow and fall. On the other
hand, where the plants have insufficient mois-
ture the roots dry up and the foliage drops off
little by little until only that amount remains
that can be supplied by the limited quantity
of water available.

WHEN TO WATER

The best method to determine when a plant
requires water is to rub some of the soil between
the fingers. If, in this rubbing, the soil pul-
verizes without caking, the plant should be
watered, even though the soil appears to be
moist. If, on the other hand, the soil cakes, it
requires no water. The soil should never be
allowed to become so dry that it becomes hard,
as this tends to check the growth of the plant.

HOW TO WATER

If the plant requires moisture, water thor-
oughly or until the water comes through the

43
WINDOW GARDENING

opening below. Fill up the pot and allow the
water to soak in and if this is not enough add
more water. Do not water again until the soil

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 12. The effects of neglect

pulverizes between the fingers even if a week
or two intervenes before this condition is
reached.

TEMPERATURE OF WATER

The water used should be of the same tem-
perature as the room in which the plants are
kept. Cold water should not be applied but
should in all cases have the chill taken off before

44
WATERING

using. Cold water checks root action and so
retards growth. Never use hot water on plants,
as it will kill the feeding roots by scalding.
Some plants, as the calla, can stand fairly warm
water, though it should not be hot, but such
plants are exceptional.

THE WATER

In watering use nothing but clear water, un-
less some form of liquid fertilizer is being ap-
plied. Avoid the use of ammonia and similar
chemicals, as they are almost universally detri-
mental to plant growth.

REMOVAL OF THE DRIP

After the plant has stood for a time and has
had a chance to drain off, the excess water in the
saucer or jardiniére should be removed. Water
may easily be removed from a saucer by means
of a sponge.

Where the plants are standing on a tray of
sand, the sand will absorb the excess water and
will then give it off to the air. The water thus

45
WINDOW GARDENING

given off by the sand aids in keeping the atmos-
phere moist.

SYRINGING

Where practical it is well to syringe all plants
except those having heavy coverings of trich-
omes (hairs) on the surface of the leaves.
Plants with a heavy covering of trichomes
should not be syringed but watered by filling
the pot as described in a previous paragraph.

Syringing aids in keeping the foliage clean
and the stomata, or breathing pores, open,—
conditions that are essential if the leaves perform
their functions. It also serves to prevent the
attacks of most insects and is an efficient remedy
where the plants are already infested.

Plants set on a tray of sand may be sprayed
to a limited extent, but if the work is to be
thoroughly done they should be removed to a
sink or bath-tub. Here they may be sprayed
either with a sprinkling can or with the spray
from the bath-tub. Too great a head of water
injures and breaks the foliage.

On a warm day the plants may be removed to

46
WATERING

the yard and sprayed with the hose. Where this
is done a nozzle should not be used, but the
water should be applied by placing the thumb

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 13. The Cyperus

lightly over the opening. This spreads the
water without giving it any great force and the
drops fall on the leaves like a gentle rain. A

47
WINDOW GARDENING

nozzle should never be used either on plants in
pots or those in the garden.

WASHING OF LEAVES

Plants with large and tough leaves, such as
palms and rubbers, should occasionally be
washed. ‘These leaves are large and the dust
accumulating on them soon clogs up the stomata.
Wash with a sponge and use clear water only.
Do not rub the leaves as the dust is easily re-
moved by passing the wet sponge lightly over
them. This should be done whenever the Icaves
lose their bright green color.

48
CHAPTER V
FERTILIZERS

CHEMICAL ELEMENTS NECESSARY FOR
GROWTH

For the development of all plants certain
chemical elements are necessary. These are se-
cured from two sources, namely from the air and
from the soil.

The essential constituents of plant-foods are
carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, sulphur,
phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium,
and iron. Other elements are taken up by
plants but are not considered essential as plant
growth will occur without them.

Of these food constituents, carbon and a part
of the oxygen are taken from the air. The car-
bon is taken up by the leaves in the form of car-
bon dioxide.

The remainder of the elements are secured
from the soil. Of these, phosphorus, potassium

49
WINDOW GARDENING

and nitrogen are likely to occur in the soil in
insufficient quantities. Where the soil is defi-
cient in these forms of plant-food their lack
must be supplied by the use of fertilizers con-

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 14. The effects of exhausted soil

taining them or else the growth of the plant be-
comes retarded and it fails to reach its normal
size and development.

Where the amount of soil for each plant is

50
FERTILIZERS

limited, as is the case where they are grown in
pots, it soon becomes exhausted and the neces-
sary elements must be supplied either by the
addition of fresh soil or by treating with some
soluble plant food. (Fig. 14.)

APPLICATION OF FERTILIZERS

Fertilizers may be applied either by mixing
directly with the potting soil or in liquid form
when the plant has become well established.
Fertilizers which require decomposition to
render their constituents available must be
added to the soil.

KINDS OF FERTILIZERS

Fertilizers are of two kinds known as natural
manures and chemical fertilizers. By natural
manures are meant the cleanings from horse-
stables, cow-barns or hen-coops, mixed with de-
caying vegetable remains of various kinds.

When added to the soil natural manures serve
two functions. First, they add directly to the
available soil supplies of potash, phosphates and
nitrogen; second, natural manures, and espe-

SI
WINDOW GARDENING

cially those containing much decaying vegetable
matter, improve the physical properties of the
soil. Their use renders the soil more open and
porous, a condition allowing a ready movement
of air and water, a matter of great importance
in plant growth. Natural manures also aid in
retaining the moisture.

Chemical fertilizers or manufactured plant-
foods merely add to the fertility of the soil and
as a rule they do not modify its physical prop-
erties.

NATURAL MANURES SHOULD BE WELL
ROTTED

Natural manures should never be used in
potting soils except in a well-rotted state.
Where fresh manure is used, fermentation may
take place and prove injurious to the plants.
Manures when rotting undergo a process of fer-
mentation which makes the plant-foods which
they contain readily available.

The use of any manure that has become over-
heated in decaying should be carefully avoided
as it has lost its value.

§2
FERTILIZERS

NATURAL MANURES FOR POTTING

Of the natural manures, cow manure is the
best for use in potting soil. However, where |
this is not available, well-rotted horse manure
may be used. Hen and sheep manures should
not be used in potting soils. These are so strong,
especially in nitrogen, that they are injurious if
applied too freely. It is best for the amateur
to avoid them and so escape possible trouble.

Well-rotted manures used in potting soils,
should be broken up and thoroughly incorpo-
rated with the soil. Where the manure is too
wet to be handled conveniently, first mix it with
the soil so that some of the moisture may be
absorbed. After it has been allowed to stand
for a time it may be broken up with the soil.

USES OF CHEMICAL FERTILIZERS

For house plants chemical fertilizers often
prove the most satisfactory. These prepared
plant-foods are of known strength and contain
the three elements which are most lable to be
lacking in the soil. (Fig. 15.)

53
WINDOW GARDENING

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 15. Same plant as in Fig. 14, six weeks later, after four
applications of chemical fertihzer

Chemical fertilizers may be used cither in
the potting soil or applied in a liquid form.
Where used in a liquid form it is especially
valuable for plants which require additional
plant-food but which one does not care to
shift so as to give them new soil,

Chemical fertilizers or plant-foods for house
plants may be secured from dealers put up in

54
FERTILIZERS

packages and ready for application. These
packages usually contain full directions for their
use.

LIQUID FERTILIZERS FROM NATURAL
MANURES

Where a number of plants are grown, a liquid
fertilizer made from natural manures may be
used. This is prepared by placing in a barrel
(45 gallons capacity) about one-half bushel of
fresh cow-dung and about two quarts of hen
manure. If the hen manure can not be secured
the cow-dung may be used alone. Add water
until the barrel is about one-half full and stir
thoroughly. Allow it to stand and ferment for
several days or until the manure has risen to
the top. Now stir thoroughly again, fill with
water and allow it to settle. The clear liquid
may then be dipped off and is ready for use.
When the clear liquid is all used add about one-
third the amount of manure and brew again.

If the plants have been without fertilizer for
some time, apply once a week for two weeks and
then once every two or three weeks as required.

55
WINDOW GARDENING

CAUTIONS

A. few cautions should be carefully observed.
Never apply fertilizers too strong, as the effect
is detrimental rather than beneficial. It is bet-
ter to apply them in weaker solutions and to
apply more frequently. A fertilizer should not
be used with a dormant plant. In the case of
such plants wait until the leaves are well started

and then the plant can make use of the additional
food.

56
CHAPTER VI
LIGHT, HEAT AND VENTILATION

LIGHT

Of all the factors that govern plant growth,
light is one of the most important. A plant may
be supplied with the proper soil, the requisite
amount of moisture and the temperature best
suited to its growth, yet unless it has the proper
amount of light the results are likely to be un-
satisfactory. The ability to secure the proper
amount of light is necessary for the best de-
velopment of the plant. Many flowering plants
fail to bloom through lack of sunshine, and here,
as well as with foliage plants, the growth be-
comes long and thin and the plant shows but a
faint trace of its possibilities.

NECESSITY OF LIGHT

Light is absolutely necessary for the carrying
on of the vital activities of all plants contain-

By
WINDOW GARDENING

ing green coloring matter, and in nearly all
house plants the seat of this activity is in the
leaves. The leaves, then, are organs for secur-
ing the proper light relation and the aim of the
plant seems to be to place them in the position
to secure the most light, or at least to secure the
amount best suited for its development.

Where the light is cut off from the leaves they
become functionless and as a result soon turn
yellow and die. The ability to use raw food-
materials and to convert them into true foods
is lessened with the reduction of the amount of
light and the parts of the plant which first suffer
are the older and mature leaves. As the vitality
of the plant is reduced, leaf after leaf drops and
soon nothing is left but the stems and a few
leaves at the top which are doing their best to
live under the adverse conditions. The beauty
of the plant is gone.

EFFORTS TO SECURE LIGHT

The movement of the leaves, then, is toward
the light, and, when a plant stands continually
in one position and receives the light from one

58
 

 

ERP Pe i Bg sath en
ees Ee
bias tats

TAS

 

 

ig. 16. The Boston fern
WINDOW GARDENING

side only, the leaves turn toward the window,
with the result that the plant becomes one-sided
and unsymmetrical. This reaching toward the
light is brought about in two ways: first by an
elongation of the petioles or leaf-stalks, followed
by a bending or twisting towards the source of
light; and second, by the elongation of the stem
and its bending toward the window. ‘This
reaching toward the light can only take place
in the young leaves and stems which have not
as yet become fixed. ‘The mature leaves on the
side away from the window, being unable to ac-
commodate themselves to the new conditions,
soon turn yellow and die and the side of the
plant toward the room assumes a bare and un-
attractive appearance.

To overcome this the plants must receive light
from all sides. Where light can only be secured
from one side, as in the window, this may be ac-
complished by turning the plant every few days
and exposing a different part to the light. This
checks the tendency to grow toward any one side
and results in a well-developed, symmetrical
plant.

60
LIGHT, HEAT AND VENTILATION

AMOUNT OF LIGHT NECESSARY

The proper amount of light for a plant is that
which gives it its best development. This
amount is not the same for all plants, but varies
with different kinds. Plants, such as the ferns,
which in their wild state are found growing on
the forest floor where they are protected from
the hot sun by the over-arching branches of the
trees, naturally require less sunshine than those
whose home is in the open meadow. With this
fact in mind, it is evident that the requirements
of the plants to be used in a window garden
should be studied that they may be given the
proper light conditions.

The effect of a deficiency of light is very no-
ticeable in plants that have been stored in the
cellar over winter. When the cellar is warm
they often begin to grow with the result that the
stems are long, thin and soft and the leaves
are small, yellow, and with long leaf-stalks.

SELECTION GOVERNED BY LIGHT

In securing plants for the window it is well to

keep these points in mind and to select only
61
AMOPUIM otURS
ay} Ul pesuesse sjueld SurlAoj-aspeys pue SulAo]-unSg “ZI ‘Shy

 
LIGHT, HEAT AND VENTILATION

such forms as are suitable for the particular ex-
posure. Often sun-loving and _ shade-loving
plants may be arranged in the same window,
by placing those requiring sunshine in the center
and the others at the side. (Fig. 17.)

Where the window is a south or west one, with
full exposure to the sun, blooming plants, as a
rule, will do well. On the other hand, if the
window is a north or east one, the best results
are secured with foliage plants. This, however,
does not exclude flowering plants from the east,
or foliage plants from the south and west win-
dows.

TEMPERATURE

Although most plants suitable for house cul-
ture may be grown in a temperature of from
60 to 70 degrees F., yet every plant has a definite
range of temperature in which it makes its best
growth. This range of temperature, however,
is not limited by the maximum and minimum at
which the plant will grow. When the tempera-
ture is above this optimum range the plant of-
ten becomes drawn, due to the forced growth;
when below it, it becomes stunted.

63
WINDOW GARDENING

In nature there is a marked difference between
the day and night temperatures. If this condi-
tion can be brought about in the dwelling it re-
sults in much good to the plants. During the
daytime most of the energy goes into the pro-
duction of food-stuffs to be used in the building
up of plant tissues. At night this food-material
is used by the plant in the building up of new
tissue and during this period of greater growth
a lower temperature is beneficial rather than
detrimental.

Where a day temperature is maintained at
from 60 to 70 degrees, the night temperature may
be from 10 to 15 degrees lower. It is hardly
surprising that many plants fail to do well in
a modern steam-heated dwelling where the tem-
perature is maintained at from 75 to 80 degrees
day and night—a temperature which is ruinous
to human as well as to plant life.

SELECTION GOVERNED BY TEMPERATURE

Plants should be selected, then, with reference
to the temperature of the room in which they are
to be kept. Some plants do well in a warm

64
LIGHT, HEAT AND VENTILATION

living-room, while others require a cooler situa-
tion for their best development.

Most dormant plants and those making little
growth during the winter may be kept much
cooler than the ordinary flowering plants.

The plants should not be exposed to the cold,
wet rains of late fall and early spring. If this
is done and the leaves of the plants turn yellow
and drop there is little need to ask ‘‘What is the
matter with my plants?” If they need a wash-
ing, place them in the sink or bath-tub and spray
them. It is true that this takes more time, but
it is vastly more beneficial to the plants.

VENTILATION

Give the plants fresh air daily, for it is just
as necessary to plant life as it is to human life.
In cold weather open the door or window far-
thest removed from the plants and allow the
fresh, cool air to mingle with the warm. On
pleasant days nearer windows may be opened
for a time. Cool, fresh air will not injure the
plants unless they are exposed to its action for
too long a period.

65
CHAPTER VII
INSECT ENEMIES

Most plants have insect enemies and unless
carefully guarded may be badly injured, if not
entirely ruined by them. It is in this particular
that the watchful eye is necessary if success in
plant culture is attained. The plants should be
examined from time to time for the presence of
insects, and if any have made their appearance,
they should be promptly exterminated. These
insect enemies breed so rapidly that in a few days
the entire plant may be covered with them. It
will be found much easier to brush off a scale
insect or two from time to time than to wait un-
til the plant is covered and then attempt their
destruction.

DESTRUCTION DEPENDENT UPON HABITS

In order intelligently to combat these insect
pests something must be known of their habits

66
INSECT ENEMIES

and of the methods used for their destruction.
The application of Paris green for the destruc-
tion of aphides or plant-lice is useless. If it is
true that Paris green is a poison when taken in-

 

Fig. 18. The tip of a fuchsia branch ruined by the mealy-bug

ternally, why is it that it does not affect the aphis
when it is destructive to the potato beetle? This
is easily explained by observing the difference
between these forms in the methods of feeding.

67
WINDOW GARDENING

KINDS OF INSECTS

All insects attacking house and garden plants
may be divided into two general groups, accord-
ing to their manner of feeding—namely, biting
insects and sucking insects. In the first group
the insect in feeding devours the tissues of the
plant and incidentally any poison that has been
applied to the surface. The poisons mostly used
for this group are Paris green and hellebore.

In the second group the insects secure their
nourishment by sucking the fluids from the inner
tissues of the plant, so that poison applied to the
surface is ineffective. Insects of this type must
be exterminated by some substance which is poi-
sonous when breathed or which kills when
brought into contact with the insect. ‘Tobacco
in some of its forms is usually used for this pur-
pose.

THE ENEMIES OF HOUSE PLANTS

There are four insects which are liable to be-
come troublesome in the window garden—the
plant-louse, scale, mealy-bug and red spider.

68
INSECT ENEMIES

PLANT-LICE

The plant-lice or aphides are perhaps the most
common of the insect enemies found on house
plants. (Fig.19.) There are numerous forms

 

Fig. 19. Plant-lice greatly magnified

of these, two of which are of frequent occur-
rence, one being black and the other green. The
black form is seldom found except on chrysan-

69
me
WINDOW GARDENING

themums and kindred plants. The green form
is by far the more common and occurs on almost
all plants except those which are densely cov-
ered with trichomes or hairs.

Plant-lice usually make their appearance on
the young and tender growth of the plant. If
left undisturbed the tender tips are soon covered
with them, the growth is checked and the plant
is finally ruined. As these are sucking insects
the substance applied must be one that will be
poisonous when breathed or by contact. In
greenhouses where fumigation is possible, to-
bacco fumes give the best results. This, how-
ever, would be a very disagreeable remedy for
the window garden and tobacco in other forms
may be used. ‘The simplest method is to spray
the plants with an atomizer and then dust with
freshly powdered tobacco. The powdered to-
bacco should be left on the plants for several
days, or until the lice have disappeared, and
then removed by spraying.

The best method is to spray with a solution of
nicotine. Although nicotine is quite expensive,
it is so efficient that only a small quantity is

7O
INSECT ENEMIES

necessary. This should be dissolved in water,
using the proportions indicated by the directions
accompanying the preparation. Apply in a
fine spray by means of a syringe or atomizer.

THE SCALE

The scale insects are most commonly found on
the foliage plants and are usually most abundant

 

Fig. 20. Scales on a palm leaf highly magnified

on the palms, pandani and the ferns. There
are numerous kinds, but those found on house

71
WINDOW GARDENING

plants belong mostly to the genus Lecanum.
All are of a brownish color and resemble minia-
ture turtle-shells fastened on the leaves. (Fig.
20.) The numerous fruiting bodies on the un-
der side of fern leaves should not be mistaken
for scales, as is often done.

Where the leaves are smooth and flat, the scales
are best removed by rubbing them off with a
piece of coarse cloth or a sponge. Where the
leaf surface is uneven, they may be removed by
means of a tooth-brush. Care must be exercised
in this operation to avoid injury to the leaves by
bruising.

THE MEALY-BUG

The mealy-bug usually occurs in the axils of
the leaves, on the growing tip, in the flower-clus-
ters, or along the veins on the under side of the
leaves. (Fig. 21.) It is white in color and is
easily distinguished from other insects by its
mealy or waxy covering.

Mealy-bugs are best removed from the plant
by means of a brush, following the treatment by
syringing, where possible. When once de-

72
INSECT ENEMIES

 

Fig. 21. The mealy-bug greatly magnified

stroyed, the plants should be syringed occasion-
ally to prevent their possible reappearance.

THE RED SPIDER
The red spider is perhaps the worst enemy of
house and conservatory plants as it is not likely
to be noticed until the plants are covered with it.

i3
WINDOW GARDENING

When the red spiders have once obtained a foot-
hold it is difficult to dislodge them. ‘The dry
atmosphere of the living-room is ideal for their
development.

These insects are so small that they are seldom
noticed until the entire plant becomes infested.
Where they are present the leaves lose their
green color and become dotted with very small
white spots. If the leaf is closely examined, it
will be found to be covered with minute insects
of a reddish color. When allowed to remain
undisturbed they soon cover the plant with a
fine web that glistens in the sunlight. Syring-
ing with clear water is the best remedy. Where
they have secured a firm foothold the plants
should be syringed daily.

THE EARTHWORM

The best method to remove earthworms from
pots, is to saturate the soil with a concentrated
solution of lime-water. This is easily prepared
by slaking a piece of lime in a pail of water.
Allow it to stand for a short time until clear and
then pour off the liquid and apply. Enough

74
INSECT ENEMIES

should be applied to saturate the soil thoroughly;
a second application may be given if necessary.

There is no danger of making the solution too
strong as water will only take up a definite
amount of lime.

75
CHAPTER VIII
PROPAGATION BY SEED

Plants may be propagated by several methods,
the most important of which are by seed, cut-
tings, grafting and layering. Of these various
methods those which may be used with any de-
gree of success in the dwelling are seeds and
cuttings.

SELECTION OF SEED

The first requirement in raising plants from
seed is to secure good seed. The seeds should be
purchased from a reliable firm so that there is a
certainty of securing seeds which are fresh. In
making a selection choose only the best varieties.
In these days of intense plant-breeding there is
no excuse for inferior varieties when the market
is full of better ones. It is also well to remem-
ber that the cheapest seed is rarely the best; that
the best is always the cheapest in the end.

70
PROPAGATION BY SEED

Care should be taken to secure fresh seed, as
many kinds fail to germinate well after the first
year.

CAUSE OF FAILURES

Nearly all failures in growing seedlings arise
from one of two causes—from poor seeds or
from too deep planting. Complaints are often
made that the seeds are of poor vitality when the
real cause of failure lies in the planting.

VESSELS FOR THE SOWING OF SEED

For the growing of seedlings in the house
several types of vessels may be used. The best
of these is the seed-pan made of unglazed
earthen ware. These seed pans are made with
a depth of from 3 to 4 inches and in diameter
ranging from 6 to 12 inches. The low form in
Fig. 1 represents a pan of this kind.

SEED-BOXES; THEIR CONSTRUCTION

Where regular seed-pans are not to be secured,
boxes may be used and serve just as well. Seed-
boxes are easily made of 3@ or %4 inch lumber
and with care should last several years. They

77
WINDOW GARDENING

should be made not over three inches deep and
of any convenient size. Fig. 22 shows a seed-
box with outside measurements of 9 by 12 in-
ches, which makes a very convenient size for the

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 22. A seed-box, showing the effect of old seed mixed
with fresh

window as it is nicely covered with a to by 12
inch pane of glass. Two or three holes in the
bottom will provide for drainage in the seed-
box.
SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION

A good soil for seed-boxes may be prepared by
mixing one part fine leaf-mold with two parts of
good garden soil. Great care should be taken to

78
PROPAGATION BY SEED

secure garden soil free from manure and other
decaying vegetable matter. Where these are
present they are liable to induce the growth of
“damping off” fungi.

Where leaf-mold can not be secured the soil
should be made more porous by the addition of
sand. The addition of leaf-mold or sand makes
the soil more open and porous thus preventing
“caking” in drying out.

The soil should be pulverized and thoroughly
mixed, all coarse pieces and stones being thrown
out. It may be made of a more even texture by
passing through a sieve with a one-fourth or one-
half inch mesh. The box or pot should be filled
with the prepared soil to within a quarter or a
half inch of the top, and then, by means of a flat
object, such as a brick or a block, the soil should
be pressed down evenly and firmly but not too
compactly. When properly packed a pressure of
the finger should leave a slight dent in the soil.

WATERING OF SOIL

If the seeds to be sown are small ones the soil
should first be thoroughly watered. This may

79
WINDOW GARDENING

be done in either one of two ways. If a water-
ing-pot with a fine rose be at hand, the soil may
be watered from above, and water enough
should be applied to soak to the bottom. The
other method is to set the box in a pan of water.
The water in this case enters slowly through the
openings in the bottom and thoroughly saturates
the soil. The box should be left in the pan until
the surface of the soil shows that the water is al-
most to the top. After removing the box from
the pan it should be allowed to stand for five or
ten minutes in order that the soil may become
evenly saturated. It is then ready for the seed.

PLANTING OF THE SEED

If the seed be very small, as in the petunia
or some of the primulas, scatter evenly over the
soil and do not cover. Coarser seed, such as
that of the pansy, should be scattered evenly over
the surface and then lightly covered with soil.
This covering of soil may be evenly and easily
applied by shaking it through a flour sieve.
Care should be taken not to cover too deeply,
as the seed may not germinate or the seedlings

80
PROPAGATION BY SEED

may die because they are unable to push their
‘way through the soil. The rule of the old
gardeners is to plant twice the depth of the seed
and it is well worth remembering. Very coarse
seed should be pressed lightly into the soil be-
fore covering.

CARE AFTER PLANTING

After planting, the pot or box should be cov-
ered with a pane of glass to prevent excessive
evaporation and placed in a north or east win-
dow until the seedlings make their appearance.
When the seedlings are up the box should be re-
moved to a light window to prevent the plants
from becoming long and weak. Where it is not
convenient to place in a north or east window,
set the box in a south or west one and cover the
glass with paper to exclude the light. When
the seedlings have made their appearance the
paper should be removed to prevent the plants
from becoming drawn.

The soil in the seed-box should not be allowed
to become dry, as the germinating seeds and the
young seedlings are easily injured by a lack of

81
WINDOW GARDENING

moisture. Water by setting the box in a pan of
water as described above.

The glass should be removed from the box for
ten or fifteen minutes each day to allow fresh

 

Fig. 23. A primrose raised from seed

air to come in contact with the soil. After the
seedlings are up and well established the glass
should be removed entirely so as to induce a

stocky growth.
82
PROPAGATION BY SEED

DISEASES OF SEEDLINGS

One of the worst diseases of young seedlings
is caused by the “‘ damping off fungus.” Where
this makes its appearance the plants rot off just
above the soil. To hold this fungus in check,
dust with sulphur. This may be done by plac-
ing a little sulphur in a piece of cheese-cloth
and gently shaking it over the diseased plants.

POTTING OF SEEDLINGS

When the seedlings have formed two or three
leaves and are large enough to handle they may
be planted in small pots or in other boxes, using
the same kind of soil as in the seed-box.

PLANTING IN POTS

Where pots are used, the planting is done in
the following manner. Fill the pot with soil
and thrust the forefinger into it well to one side
of the pot. Now using the middle finger and
thumb as levers force the forefinger toward the
center. This packs the soil toward one side of
the pot and leaves a hole with its edge just in the

83
WINDOW GARDENING

center of the pot. With the left hand, take the
plant by the leaves and place it in position with
the roots against the side of the hole at the center
of the pot. While still holding the plant in
position, fill the opening with soil and press
down firmly with the forefinger. This packs
the soil firmly about the roots. Complete the
operation by adding more soil and “ firming ”
it with the thumbs as in Fig. 8.

PLANTING IN BOXES

If boxes are used they should be of the same
height as those in which the seed was sown.
Fill with soil in the same manner as seed-boxes,
but do not water before planting. Planting is
in this case best done by using a case knife. A
hole is made by plunging the knife into the soil
and then forcing it to one side. The plant may
then be placed in the opening and the soil pushed
back again with the flat side of the knife.

After potting water thoroughly and protect
from the sun until the plants have become well
established.

84.
CHAPTER IX
PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS

The most satisfactory methods of propagating
many plants is by means of cuttings or slips. A
cutting is a part of a plant which has been sev-
ered from the parent stalk and which on being
planted under proper conditions will root and
become an independent plant.

ADVANTAGES OF CUTTINGS

Where a plant lends itself to this method of
propagation great advantages are gained.
Plants raised from cuttings usually bloom sooner
than those raised from seeds, and are always
sure to resemble closely the parent. Plants
grown from cuttings also attain a greater size in
any given period of time than plants grown
from seed. (Fig. 24.)

85
WINDOW GARDENING

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 24. Four months old geranium from a cutting

KINDS OF CUTTINGS

Cuttings are of three kinds, according to the
part of the plant from which they are taken,
namely: stem-, leaf-, and root-cuttings.

The stem-cutting is the most common form
and is a portion of the stem; it may or may not
bear leaves. Leaf-cuttings may be made either
from entire leaves or from parts of leaves. The
leaf-cutting can only be used in the case of
certain plants with more or less succulent leaves,
such as the begonia. Root-cuttings are selected
portions of roots which on being properly

86
PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS

planted form buds which develop into new
plants. This method is only available for use
with plants which sucker freely from the roots.

SELECTION OF CUTTINGS

All stem- or leaf-cuttings when placed in the
soil form a callus over the lower or cut end from
which the new roots develop. Where stem-
cuttings are to be made, select a growing tip,
using care to choose one in which the wood is
beginning to harden but is by no means mature.
Cuttings of geraniums, coleus, and such soft
plants may be made of the soft growing tip, but
such cuttings under ordinary house conditions
are liable to decay instead of taking root. It is
best for use under house conditions to take a
cutting which has some well developed wood at
the base.

PREPARATION OF CUTTINGS

The cutting, before it is ready for the propa-
gating-box, should be trimmed (Fig. 25) with a
sharp knife through the joint or just below it.
Many plants will root at any point along the

87
WINDOW GARDENING

stem while others will only root at the joints;
to be on the safe side, therefore, it is better to
cut at the joint or just below it.

The lower leaves should be removed with a
knife so as to give a free stem of at least three-

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 25. Selection and preparation of a cutting

fourths of an inch for insertion in the soil. The
area of the remaining leaves should be reduced
about one-half by cutting away a part of each
leaf-blade. The object of this is to lessen the
transpiring surface and so prevent excessive

88
PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS

transpiration. This reduction in leaf also per-
mits the cuttings to be placed more closely in the
propagating-box. (Fig. 27.)

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 26. Protection against loss of moisture

PROPAGATING-BOXES

Where a number of cuttings are to be rooted,
it is best to prepare a propagating-box. (Fig.
27.) A simple form may be made with very
little trouble. A box, six or seven inches deep
and of any convenient size and a pane of glass
large enough to cover the box is all that is re-

89
WINDOW GARDENING

quired for this work. The glass prevents ex-
cessive evaporation and protects the cuttings
from all drafts. Where the box is thus covered
the contained air remains moist and checks the

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 27. An inexpensive propagating-box

drain on the leaves. It is also much easier to
control the moisture conditions of the soil. In
the propagating-box, as in the seed-box, several
holes should be bored in the bottom to secure
proper drainage. Flat pots or low boxes may

90
PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS

also be used, provided they are covered with
some kind of glass hood or bell-jar.

Where but few cuttings are to be rooted, they
may be planted separately in small pots and pro-
tected from excessive transpiration by invert-
ing tumblers or fruit-jars over them. (Fig. 26.)

THE SOIL

The best soil for propagating purposes is a
clean sifted sand for cutting-boxes and a light
sandy loam for pots. ‘The loam used should be
free from manures of all kinds.

FILLING OF BOXES

To prepare the cutting-box, place in the bot-
tom about three inches of clean sifted sand and
level it off. Water it thoroughly and then, by
means of a brick or a block of wood, pack the
sand firmly. It is then ready for the cuttings.

INSERTION OF CUTTINGS

Plant the cuttings by making a groove about
three-fourths of an inch deep in the sand, using
a case-knife for the purpose. Place the cut-
WINDOW GARDENING

tings in this groove, allowing enough space be-
tween them to give all of the leaves the advan-
tage of the light. Where the cuttings are placed
too close together, the lower leaves turn yellow
and often rot. When the row across the box is
filled, press the sand down firmly against the
stems; then make another groove and fill as be-
fore. Care should be taken to have the bases of
the cuttings well down in the groove and resting
upon a firm bottom.

CARE OF CUTTINGS

When the cuttings are all placed, they should
be watered thoroughly. This helps to pack the
sand down closely against the stems and thus
prevents their drying out. The box should be
covered with the pane of glass and set in a
window where it may receive plenty of light but
no direct sunshine. The sand should be kept
constantly moist but not allowed to become
water-soaked.

The glass should be removed from the box for
a short time each day, to renew the air. When
the cuttings are beginning to root, ventilation

Q2
PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS

may be provided by placing a small block under
one side of the glass.

When the cuttings are well rooted they should
be removed from the sand with a case-knife and
potted in small pots. (See Chapter II.)

93
CHAPTER xX
BULBS

USES OF BULBOUS PLANTS

Among the plants suitable for window gar-
dening are to be found many kinds of bulbs.
When correctly treated, no class of plants gives
greater satisfaction and none may be more safely
depended upon for a definite supply of bright
and fragrant blooms.

Many of these forms require no space in the
window except during the time of flowering.
When the blooming season is over they may be
removed and the space given to others which
have been held in reserve. In this way a con-
stant succession of flowers may be maintained
from December to April.

KINDS FOR FORCING

The best kinds for winter forcing are the
early spring flowering forms of hardy bulbs,

94
BULBS

‘

which are easily grown and require a very short
period to bring them into full flower. In ad-
dition to these some of the lilies may be grown
to a good advantage.

SELECTION OF BULBS

In selecting bulbs care should be taken to se-
cure none but the best. In all bulbs which

 

Fig. 28. ‘What a first size hyacinth bulb will do

bloom in the early spring, the buds, which are
to produce the flowers, are formed during the

95
WINDOW GARDENING

previous season’s growth and are stored in the
mature bulb awaiting the proper conditions for
further development. The selection of cheap
or small bulbs, therefore, necessarily means

 

Fig. 29. Murillo, the queen of tulips

small flowers or flower clusters. For example,

a small hyacinth bulb, even with the best of care,

will only produce ten flowers to the cluster if

there were only ten buds folded in the bulb. If
96
BULBS

large flowers are desired secure only large and
well-developed bulbs. (Figs. 28 and 29.) The
smaller bulbs may be reserved for garden plant-
ing.
THE SOIL

The best soil for bulbs is a fairly rich sandy
or light loam. A great excess of fertilizer 1s
not required by most bulbs in forcing as the food
necessary for the full development of the flow-
ers is largely stored in the bulb itself. If ma-
nure is required, only such as is in a thoroughly
rotted state should be used. Never use fresh
manure of any kind.

DEPTH OF PLANTING

The depth to which bulbs should be potted
depends entirely upon the kind. Hyacinths,
narcissi, tulips and similar bulbs should be
planted so that the tip is just below the surface
of the soil. It is unnecessary to plant them any
deeper as the roots are all formed from the under
side of the bulb. In lilies, however, the root
formation is different. Here the roots are
formed on the stem above the bulb as well as

97
WINDOW GARDENING

from below. The bulb therefore, must be
planted much deeper in the soil to allow
for the proper development of these upper
roots.

The best way to secure this depth, in potting
lilies, is to follow the same method of shallow
planting as with hyacinths, but to have the pot
only one-half to two-thirds full of earth when
the operation is completed. As the lily begins
to grow and the stem elongates, the pot should
be gradually filled with fresh soil.

POTTING OF BULBS

The operation of potting a bulb is similar to
that used in potting any other plant. Cover the
opening in the bottom of the container with a
piece of broken pot and then partly fill with soil.
Press this down firmly with the fingers and
place the bulb in position; then fill the pot with
soil and press down thoroughly, using the fin-
gers only.

The bulb should never be pressed into the soil
in order to get it down deep enough. Where the
soil is moist such pressure packs the earth so

98
BULBS

firmly under the bulb that the roots can not pen-
etrate it and the bulb is lifted out of the soil by
the root growth. (Fig. 11.) If the bulb does
not set deep enough take it from the pot and re-
set after having removed some of the soil.

NUMBER OF BULBS TO POT

Bulbs for the window garden may be grown
either singly or in masses. With many forms it
is best to plant at least three or four in a pot.
Where more than one bulb is used, all should be
of one variety or of varieties requiring the same
length of time for development. Where early
and late varieties are used in the same pot, the
growth is uneven and the early forms may be
gone before the late ones are half grown. Fig.
29 shows tulips massed in a six-inch pot.

Either standard or azalea pots may be used
for the larger bulbs and seed- or bulb-pans for
the smaller ones.

STORAGE OF BULBS; CELLAR

After having potted the bulbs, they should be
watered thoroughly and stored in a cool, dark

99
WINDOW GARDENING

and airy place until time for blooming. The
best place to store bulbs is in a cool, unused cel-
lar. The temperature may go down to 32 or
even 30 degrees F. without injury while the
leaves are undeveloped.

During this time the bulb will be forming its
roots and should be examined from time to time
to see that the soil does not become too dry.
When dry it should be watered with cold water.
During the period of storage the soil should be
kept moist but not wet. When too dry, the roots
can not develop and growth becomes stunted.
When kept too wet the bulbs are likely to rot.

STORAGE IN GARDEN

Where a cool cellar is not available, the pots
may be stored in the following manner. Dig a
trench about a foot deep in a sheltered position
in the garden or yard and place in the bottom
about three or four inches of coal ashes or gravel
to secure good drainage. Set the pots on the
ashes and fill in around them with soil; heap
the remaining soil over them and round off the

100
BULBS

surface so that it will shed water. This method
furnishes ideal conditions for root action.
When cold weather sets in, cover with four to
six inches of rough stable-manure to prevent the
frost from penetrating to the pots and thus pro-
vide for their safe removal at any time during
the winter.

Half hardy and tender bulbs should receive
a somewhat different treatment from that indi-
cated above. They should at first be kept in a
cool room and later removed to a warmer place
for forcing.

TIME TO PLANT

Bulbs to be grown in the window garden may
be secured from August to November. They
should be planted as soon as secured. Some ad-
vocate the planting of successive lots to secure
early and late flowers, but it is much better to
plant all at the same time and then hold them
back in storage. When bulbs are kept out of
the soil for too long a time they are certain to
lose vitality.

IOI
WINDOW GARDENING

WHEN TO FORCE BULBS

No attempt should be made to force bulbs
until they are thoroughly rooted. This will re-
quire from three to eight weeks, according to the
kind of bulb. Where bulbs are forced before
the roots are thoroughly developed, the leaves
remain short and the flowers either dry up or
are imperfectly developed. Most bulbs should
not be brought up to the warmth and light until
the latter part of January. As the regular
blooming season approaches the time required
for forcing decreases and the development be-
comes more perfect.

Bulbs, after having once been forced, may be
stored in a light cellar or if it is late in the sea-
son set outside and allowed to ripen off. These
bulbs may be used for planting in the garden in
the following fall.

Bulbs should not be used a second time for
forcing as they have lost a large part of their
vitality. Further, if they have already attained
their maximum size they break up into several
inferior bulbs.

102
BULBS

KINDS FOR FORCING

Among the many varieties of bulbs suitable
for forcing the following are considered as some
of the best.

THE HYACINTH

Hyacinths are of two kinds, known to the
trade as the Roman and Dutch types. The
Roman hyacinth is a small flowered form which
produces several sprays to the bulb, and by plant-
ing early may be brought into bloom by Christ-
mas. The Dutch hyacinth is the large flowered
form and usually has but a single large cluster
to the bulb. To secure the best results these
should not be forced until February. Fig. 28
shows the possibilities of a first or largest size
bulb of Dutch hyacinth. This variety usually
produces several clusters to the plant and is very
attractive.

Bulbs of the Roman hyacinths may be planted
three to five in a five-inch pot. The Dutch hya-
cinth of the first size should be planted singly
in five-inch pots. Smaller bulbs should be

103
WINDOW GARDENING

planted singly in four-inch or three to six in a
six-inch pot.

Hyacinths may also be flowered in water in
special receptacles known as hyacinth glasses.
These may be bought from the florist or seeds-
man. Fill the inner receptacle with water and
place the bulb in position. The water should
just reach to the bottom of the bulb. It should
then be set in a dark, cold place, but not where
there is danger of freezing, as freezing will
break the glass.

When well rooted the pot should be placed
in a sunny window and the glass filled with
water whenever necessary.

For water culture select sound bulbs of the
single Dutch varieties.

Roman hyacinths with pink, blue or white
flowers are easily obtained from florists. Dutch
hyacinths in both single and double forms may
be secured in the various shades of pink, blue,
white and yellow. The single varieties, how-
ever, are to be preferred, as the trusses are much
larger.

104.
BULBS

THE TULIP

Tulips are always satisfactory if given plenty
of time for root formation. (Fig. 29.) When
an attempt is made to force tulips too early the
stems and leaves remain very short and the flow-
ers are very small, even blighting in extreme
cases. The best time to force tulips is from
February to April.

To obtain the most striking effects, tulips
should be planted thickly, at least three bulbs in
a five-inch pot, or six bulbs in a six-inch pot.

In selecting tulips for forcing it is best to
choose the named varieties, such as the florists
use. Select only the early single and double
forms, leaving the late varieties for outdoor cul-
ture. Among these some of the best are: Single
—La Reine, white; Vermilion Brilliant and
Colour de Cardinal, scarlet; Yellow Prince of
Orange and Mon Tresor, yellow; Rose luisante,
pink; Keizerskroon, red and yellow; double
Murillo (Fig. 29.) pink; Le Matador, scarlet;
Courronne d’or, yellow.

105
WINDOW GARDENING

THE NARCISSUS

With the exception of a variety or two, which
may be brought into bloom during December,
the narcissi should be reserved for February
and March forcing. From one to six bulbs, ac-
cording to size, should be planted in a five-inch
pot to obtain the most effective results.

From the narcissi may be selected a number
of varieties suitable for forcing. (Fig. 30.) The
earliest of these is the “ paper white” (N.
tazetta alba) of the polyanthus group. This
form if planted early may be brought into bloom
with the Roman hyacinth in December.

Of the daffodils or trumpet Narcissus group,
some of the best single varieties are, Golden
Spur, yellow; Princeps Ajax, yellow crown and
cream colored segments; Bicolor Empress, yel-
low crown and white segments; of the double
varieties the Double Von Sion is the best.

Mrs. Langtry is a short-crowned white nar-
cissus, suitable for forcing. N. poeticus ornatus
is an early form of the poet’s narcissus suitabl
for late forcing.

106
SnssinieN sy ‘Of ‘BIT

 
WINDOW GARDENING

The Chinese sacred lily makes an interesting
house-plant, as it may be easily grown in water.
Fill a bowl about six inches in diameter and
three to four inches deep, half full of clean peb-
bles and set the bulb upon them. The pebbles
are merely to keep the bulb in position. Then
fill the bow! with water to the height of the base
of the bulb. If too much water is given there
is danger of the bulb rotting. It should then
be set in a cool, dark place until the roots are
well developed, when it is ready to be placed in
the window for forcing.

THE LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY

No attempt should be made to force the lily-
of-the-valley until March and April, as it re-
quires a great deal of heat. As the natural
season for blooming approaches it may be
forced more readily and surely. Much better
success will be obtained if the rhizomes have
been frozen before forcing.

Plant from eight to twelve pips in a five-inch
pot, in light, sandy loam. Water well and set
in a warm moisture, as moisture and heat are all

108
BULBS

that is necessary to bring them quickly into
flower.

Use only strong blooming pips such as may be
secured from the florist during the winter
months.

THE FREESIA

Freesias are the most satisfactory of the ten-
der bulbs for the window garden. The length
of their blooming season, together with their
delicate fragrance, make them great favorites.

Plant from eight to ten bulbs in a five-inch
pot and place at once in the window. If the
plants become tall and unwieldy, place a small
stick in the center of the pot and tie the stalks
to it.

Freesia bulbs if properly ripened and dried
off may be used the following year for forcing.

THE LILIES

Of the many kinds of lilies the one best suited
for house culture is the Easter lily or L. longi-
florum and its varieties. (Fig. 31.) They
should be potted in September or October in
five-inch or six-inch pots, according to the size

109
WINDOW GARDENING

 

Fig. 31. The Easter lily

of the bulbs. Place in the window of a cool
room until the plant begins to make a good
growth, then remove to a warmer window. Like
the hyacinth it produces little top growth until
the roots are formed.

IIo
CHAPTER, XI
FOLIAGE PLANTS

There are many forms of foliage plants suita-
ble for house culture which, although they pro-
duce no bloom, are valued because they require
so little sunlight. Many may be grown at some
distance from the window and still give goad re-
sults.

ASPARAGUS

The two forms of Asparagus best adapted to
house culture are A. plumosus nanus and A.
sprengeri. Each of these has characteristics
peculiarly fitting it for a position in the window
garden.

When given plenty of root space, A. plumosus
nanus is a climber, but as a pot plant it remains
dwarf until at least several years old. If any
long shoots are produced, the symmetry of the
plant may be preserved by pinching out the tips

ELI
WINDOW. GARDENING

at the height of the remainder of the plant. If
the long vines are desired, they can be trained
upon a trellis or up the side of the window.
Fig. 6 shows a plant of plumosus nanus from a
four-inch pot.

Asparagus sprengeri (Fig. 32), on the other
hand, is a trailing form and lends itself well to
use in hanging baskets. When grown in a pot
it may be placed upon a stand and the vines al-
lowed to hang to the floor or the pot may be sus-
pended in the window by means of pot-hangers.
This form requires abundant light to prevent
the vines from becoming long and thin.

Both should be potted in soil prepared ac-
cording to formula No. 1. As the plants be-
come pot-bound they should be shifted to larger
pots.

All forms of Asparagus and especially A.
sprengeri are voracious feeders and should be
given occasional applications of some suitable
fertilizer.

Water freely but do not keep the soil wet.
The large fleshy roots are adapted for the stor-
age of water so that the plant suffers little by an -

112
 

 

 

 

 

Asparagus sprengeri

Fig. 32.
WINDOW GARDENING

occasional drying out. It is this fact that makes
it peculiarly suitable for a house plant.

ASPIDISTRA

The aspidistra makes an ideal plant where one
of low growth is desired as it can stand more

 

 

a

 

 

 

Fig. 33. The Aspidistra

heat, dust and gas than any other house plant.

An aspidistra will often do well where other

plants fail. They may be secured either with
114
FOLIAGE PLANTS

plain green leaves or with leaves variegated with
white. (Fig. 33.)

For potting use soil prepared according to
formula No. 1 and keep in a good growing con-
dition.

Give plenty of water at.all times, but avoid
over-watering.

Young plants are started from divisions of
an old one. When plants become too large they
may be cut into from two to four pieces and
potted separately.

ARAUCARIA

Araucaria excelsa or Norfolk Island pine, as
it is commonly called, is a charming plant for a
light window in a cool room. This plant with
its symmetrical growth belongs to the conifers
and will stand, during the winter, a temperature
as low as 5s or so degrees. When kept cool
and given plenty of light it is the most satis-
factory small tree available. During the sum-
mer it will do well on the outside or on the porch,
but it should always be kept shaded. Exposure
to the hot sun has a tendency to turn the leaves

IIs
WINDOW GARDENING

brown and give to the entire plant a yellowish-
brown appearance.

A loam such as is described in formula No.
I is a good soil for the araucaria but may be im-
proved by the addition of a little leaf-mold.

The araucaria should be watered moderately
and uniformly to secure the best results, but
care should be taken not to over-water.

CYPERUS

The cyperus or umbrella plant is the only
house plant which may be grown with the pot
resting in water. Naturally a water plant, it
requires an abundance of moisture. It also
does well when treated as any other house plant,
save that it should be watered more abundantly.
Fig. 13 shows a young plant of C. alternifolius
or the common umbrella plant. C. papyrus
or the Egyptian paper-plant also belongs to this
family, but does not make a good house plant.

A loam such as is given in formula No. 1 is an
excellent soil for the cyperus.

Cyperi may be grown from divisions of the
old plant, but the most symmetrical plants are

116
FOLIAGE PLANTS

raised from seed which should be sown in the
spring.
FERNS

The fern is to-day rapidly superseding the
palm as a house plant. The rapidity of its
growth combined with its easy culture tend to
make it a great favorite.

The best ferns for house culture are those of
the sword-fern or Nephrolepsis group. The
florists offer numerous attractive forms which
easily withstand the dry atmosphere of the liv-
ing-room, ‘The first variety of the new class of
Nephrolepsis to be offered was the Boston fern
(N. exaltata bostoniensis.) This form has en-
tirely replaced the old, erect N. cordata or
sword-fern. The fronds of the Boston fern of-
ten attain a length of four to six feet and droop-
ing over the edge of the pot give to the plant a
very graceful and attractive appearance. (Fig.
10,)

The Scott fern (N. scotti) is a form of bos-
toniensis with shorter leaves and more compact
growth. It is found very useful where a more
erect form is desired.

tI?
WINDOW GARDENING

The Pierson fern (N. piersoni) is as easily
grown as the Boston but has much broader and
heavier leaves. The pinnz or leaflets instead

 

 

 

 

Fig. 34. The Pierson fern

of being simple, as in the Boston fern, are again
divided. (Fig. 34.)
Among the newer varieties are the Tarrytown

118

 
FOLIAGE PLANTS

fern (N. piersoni elegantissima) and Barrow’s
fern (N. barrowsii). Both are dwarf forms of
the Pierson fern but have broader and heavier
leaves.

Ferns prefer a good fibrous loam, and the
potting soil should be prepared according to
formula No. 2. The plants should be kept in
a good growing condition and should be shifted
whenever necessary.

The best results are obtained with ferns when
they are not exposed to the direct rays of the
sun. Too much sunshine has a tendency to
check the growth and to turn the leaves yellow.

The soil should be kept moist but not wet.
An excess of water as well as a lack of it and ex-
posure to too much cold will cause the leaves to
turn yellow and fall.

Ferns of this type are best propagated by re-
moving the small plants formed on the runners
and planting them in small pots. They may
also be propagated by divisions of the old plant,
but this method is not so satisfactory.

Ferns for the fernery should be secured from
two or two and one-half inch pots, according

iTO
WINDOW GARDENING

to the size of the dish in which they are to be
planted. Only the hardier species, which are
able to withstand the dry atmosphere, should be
selected for this purpose.

In Fig. 35 are shown six varieties of ferns
for the fernery. ‘They are, from left to right,
Aspidium tsussumense, Adiantum  capillus-

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 35. Ferns suitable for the fernery

veneris, Pteris tremula, Pteris serrulata, Cyr-
tomium falcatum and Pteris cretica albo-line-
ata. In addition to these the following are also
good:—Cyrtomium fortunei, Onycium japon-
icum, Nephrolepsis duff and the following spe-
cies of Pteris, ouvrardi, serrulata cristata, and
cretica magnifica.
120
FOLIAGE PLANTS

GREVILLEA

Grevillea robusta or silk oak comes to us from
Australia. It makes a desirable house plant, as
it is able to stand much handling and neglect.
(Fig. 36.) In warm countries where it can be
grown outside it becomes a large tree and is
planted for shade purposes.

Propagation is by means of seed which should
be sown in the spring. To secure bushy plants
the seedlings should be pinched back when 18
to 20 inches high in order to force them to
branch.

Soil for potting should be prepared according
to formula No. 1. Keep in a good growing
condition and water when required.

PALMS

Of the numerous varieties of palms offered
on the market there are many which are adapted
to house culture. Among the best, perhaps, are
two forms of Kentias, namely K. belmoreana
and K. fosteriana. Of these K. belmoreana is
the smaller and the greater favorite. (Fig. 37.)

121
 

 

 

 

Fig. 36. Grevillea robusta

 
FOLIAGE PLANTS

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 37. Kentia belmoreana as a house plant

Areca lutescens has narrower leaflets than the
Kentias and the leaves are also more erect. The
Arecas also branch near the base, thus giving rise
to numerous stalks which make the plants more
bushy.

The Latania borbonica, or fan palm, is also
easily grown. Livingstona rotundifolia, a
palm with leaves similar to those of the fan
palm but of a more compact and graceful habit,

123
WINDOW GARDENING

is also considered one of the most desirable and
suitable forms.

To the above may be added two members of
the date palm group: Phcenix rupicola and
Pheenix canariensis. The latter is the gem of
the group. (Fig 5.)

A rather heavy soil such as indicated by for-
mula No. 3 is best for palms. Do not repot too
often but keep the root-system somewhat re-
stricted and maintain a good growing condition
by an occasional application of liquid fertilizer
ormanure. Ifthe plant has been lifted out of the
pot by the growth of the roots shift to a larger
pot. In shifting, some of this mass of roots at
the bottom may be removed by tearing it loose
with the fingers and then trimming with a knife.
This will allow the plant to set more deeply in
the pot.

Palms should never be exposed to the direct
rays of the sun and therefore may be grown in
almost any exposure. In the summer the palms
may be removed from the house and set in the
shaded part of the veranda or under a tree.
Never set a palm that has been grown in the

124
FOLIAGE PLANTS

house in the hot sun as the leaves will burn and
become brown.

Watch carefully for insects, as the palms are
the homes of many scale forms. The leaves
should be washed once or twice a month to re-
move the dust and to keep the insects in check.

PANDANUS

There are two forms of Pandanus that are de-
sirable for the window garden. One is the va-
riegated green and white form, known as P.
veitchii, and the other a green form with a
reddish tinge to the leaves, known as P. utilis
or screw pine.

Care must be exercised in watering the Pan-
danus forms, as an over-abundance of moisture
will rot them off at the surface. It is safer to
keep them a little dry than to over-water.

They should be shifted when necessary, using
soil prepared according to formula No. 1. If
allowed to become pot-bound the large roots
begin to raise the ball of earth from the pot.

The leaves should be kept free from dust by
syringing or sponging.

125
WisDOW GARDENING

RUBBERS

The rubber plant or Ficus elastica with its
large leathery and shining leaves is well able to
withstand the adverse conditions of the living-
room. (Fig. 38.)

For potting soil use formula No. 1. The
rubber plant should be shifted only when the
pot becomes densely filled with roots. It is bet-
ter to feed well than to shift it to too large a pot.
Rubber trees, when too tall, may be cut back to
any desired height. The cutting-back should
be done in the spring when the weather is stead-
ily becoming warmer, as it is in the summer
months that the plants make their greatest
growth. Fig. 38 shows a rubber between seven
and eight feet tall which was cut back to three
feet. After cutting back there was not a single
leaf upon it. The photograph was taken about
three months later. To secure low bushy plants,
the young plants should be topped when from
fifteen to twenty inches high.

Wash the leaves occasionally with clear water

and keep the soil fairly moist.
126
 

Fig. 38. Rubber plant three months after cutting back
WINDOW GARDENING

It is better to purchase young rubber plants
from the florist as they are very difficult to prop-
agate.

TRADESCANTIA

The Tradescantia, or wandering jew, serves
well as a basket or bracket plant where the stems
have an opportunity to droop. (Fig.3.) They
will do well in shaded positions but require an
abundance of water.

Soil prepared according to formula No. 1
will do well for them. The Tradescantia are
best propagated by cuttings planted in pots of
fresh soil.

128
CHAPTER Ail
FLOWERING PLANTS

Where plenty of light can be secured, a great
variety of flowering plants will do well’ in the
living-room. The following list gives some of
the more common and satisfactory forms.

AMARYLLIS

The Amaryllis, properly known as Hippeas-
trum, is one of the old-time favorites, requiring
but little attention and always giving satisfac-
tion.

The Amaryllis is grown from a bulb which,
although not herbaceous, requires a period of
rest during the winter. In the winter they
should be watered sparingly. When growth be-
gins in the spring and the buds begin to appear
they will require more water. During the sum-
mer the plants may be set outside but should be
regularly watered as during the blooming pe-

129
WINDOW GARDENING

riod. It is at this time that the plant is making
its growth and storing up strength for future
flowering.

Bulbs in seven or eight inch pots need not be
repotted, but should have the top soil removed
from time to time and replaced with fresh. A
rather rich, heavy loam is most suitable for
Amaryllis.

AZALEA

Azaleas which have been procured during the
flowering season will, with the proper atten-
tion, bloom from year to year. After the plant
has ceased flowering, pick off all the old flowers
and remove to a cdol room until the weather is
warm enough to set the pot outside. When
warm enough, place it under some tree or on the
north side of the house, where it will have plenty
of light but will not be exposed to the hot sun.
To prevent the soil from drying out too rapidly,
sink the pot up to the rim in the soil. Water
when necessary and syringe occasionally to keep
the foliage clean. One of the secrets in grow-
ing azaleas successfully lies in never allowing

130
FLOWERING PLANTS

the soil to become dry. The pot is filled with
a mass of very fine roots which are easily in-
jured either by continual drying or by over-
watering.

 

Fig. 39. The Azalea

When cold weather approaches, the azalea
should be brought into the house and placed in
a cool room, preferably one where there is no

131
WINDOW GARDENING

heat but where it does not freeze. Keep it in
this condition during the winter, watering care-
fully. In late winter or early spring when the
buds are beginning to swell it should be re-
moved toa warmer room. If the plant is placed
in a warm room when taken in from the yard,
the buds, instead of opening, dry out and fall off.
When through blooming, repeat the treatment
outlined above.

Every year or two the plant should be shifted
to a pot a size larger, using soil prepared ac-
cording to formula No. 2. The spring is the
best time to shift. Fig. 39 shows an azalea that
has been treated as described.

BEGONIA

Many kinds of Begonias do well in rooms
where the night temperature does not fall below
55 to 60 degrees. A lower temperature than
this is injurious and causes them to loose their
leaves.

There are two classes suitable for house cul-
ture: a shrubby section with many winter-flow-

132
FLOWERING PLANTS

ering species, and a rex section grown merely
for their ornamental leaves.

A light soil, such as is given in formula No.
2, with a little well-rotted manure added, an-
swers well for all begonias.

Begonias may be placed on the outside during
the summer but must be protected from the sun.

CALLA LILY

When given a window where it will receive
plenty of light, the calla lily (Richardia afri-
cana) can be successfully brought into flower.

In selecting callas be very sure to secure strong
tubers, as they invariably give the best results.
Pot in the same manner as a hyacinth except
setting in such a way that the tip will be slightly
deeper in the soil. The soil used should be pre-
pared according to formula No. 1.

Callas should be watered thoroughly after
potting and then kept rather dry until the plants
are well started. After they are well up they
should receive an abundance of water.

The pots may be set outside until the weather

133
WINDOW GARDENING

begins to get cool but the plants should never
be allowed to become frosted.

When growing luxuriantly an occasional ap-
plication of fertilizer is highly beneficial, as they
are gross feeders.

In removing the old flowers, care should be
taken not to injure the leaf-stalk as two flowers
are always produced from the same leaf. After
the second flower is out the leaf may be removed.

In June, water should be gradually withheld
and the tops allowed to die off. When the top
is dead the pot should be laid on its side in a
shed or some dry place where it is protected
from the sun. In August knock the soil from
the pot and remove the bulb. Remove all the
small bulbs from the sides of the large one as
they will not bloom and merely help to fill the
pot. Plant again, using fresh soil and treating
as described in a previous paragraph.

CACTUS

There are some kinds of cacti which make in-
teresting and attractive house plants. As the

134
FLOWERING PLANTS

cacti are desert plants they should be given a
sunny window and watered carefully and spar-
ingly. During the growing season water mod-
erately, using care not to over-water, as an ex-
cess of moisture will cause them to rot.

The soil best suited for the cacti is a light
porous loam prepared by mixing two parts of
fibrous loam with one part sand. In planting,
fill the pot about one-fourth full of broken brick,
charcoal or gravel to give good drainage. Use
pots of ample size but do not make the error of
using pots that are too large. Do not shift of-
tener than is absolutely necessary as cacti are bet-
ter kept in the same pot for several years.

Most of the cacti are provided with numerous
spines, but there are several interesting kinds
which are without the spines. Among these lat-
ter is a flat-stemmed form, Phyllocactus, whose
large white flowers open at night. Another
spineless form is the Epiphyllum, or crab cac-
tus, which produces a wealth of red flowers.
Among the prickly cacti are many odd forms
whicn ace chiefly grown as curiosities.

135
WINDOW GARDENING

CARNATIONS

Carnations may occasionally be grown in the
window garden with some degree of success,
but the majority of attempts end in failure be-
cause of unsuitable temperature and moisture
conditions. Carnations are also especially sub-
ject to the attacks of the red spider.

When grown in the window, carnations should
have plenty of sun and the temperature, in the
daytime, should not go above 65 degrees but at
night may go down to 50 degrees.

Carnations may be secured in all shades of
pink, red, white, yellow, crimson and purple
and in many variegations. Either secure small
plants in the spring and plant in the garden dur-
ing the summer or get field-grown plants in the
fall.

If grown in the garden the plants should
be lifted in the fall and planted in five or six
inch pots and kept in a shaded place until well
established. Carnations should be kept out of
doors until just before the frosts.

136
FLOWERING PLANTS

CHRYSANTHEMUMS

Chrysanthemums when successfully grown
make a welcome addition to the autumn flowers
of the window garden. These should occupy
the window only during the flowering season.

Only the dwarf varieties should be selected
and preferably those which break into branch-
ing freely. Young plants should be procured
in the spring. During the summer they should
be grown in pots or in the garden.

When grown in pots, the plants should be
shifted from the small pots into those four or five
inches in diameter and placed out of doors fully
exposed to the sun. Where possible it is best
to sink the pots up to the rim in the soil in order
to prevent the soil from drying out too rapidly.
This also serves to keep the soil in the pots cooler.
It is also well to put two or three inches of coal
ashes under the pots in order to provide good
drainage and to keep out worms. Shift into
larger pots when necessary, using soil prepared
according to formula No. 1.

137
WINDOW GARDENING

When grown in the garden, the plants should
be set out so as to allow plenty of room for the
season’s growth. About the first of September
the plants should be carefully lifted and potted.
After potting, the plants should be kept in a
shaded place until well established. The plants
should be removed to the house when there is
danger of frost.

When low bushy plants are desired the young
plants should be topped when six or eight inches
high and when the new growth becomes three or
four inches long should be topped again. ‘This
treatment should be continued until the first of
August to insure as much branching as possible.
To secure large flowers, all the small buds should
be removed, only one good bud being left upon
the stem. .

After blooming, the old plants may be stored
in a light cellar during the winter but should
not be allowed to dry out. In the spring they
can be brought up and started into growth to
provide cuttings for future use. The chrysan-
themum is propagated in the same way as the
geranium.

138
winsisied uawiepsAy FO SuIIO] Mau pue PJO YL ‘ob SI

 
WINDOW GARDENING

CYCLAMENS

The cyclamens make good plants for the house,
as they bloom all winter. Although they may
be raised from seed, the length of time neces-
sary to grow a plant of blooming size makes it
much cheaper and more desirable to secure the
plants from a dealer. The cyclamens thrive
best in a sunny window in a cool room.

The cyclamens commonly grown are C. per-
sicum and its varieties. Great improvement has
been made within the past few years in the size
and coloring of the blooms. Fig. 40 shows the
old C. persicum at the left and the new orchid-
flowered cyclamen at the right.

Where it is desired to keep the bulbs for a
second year’s flowering they should be kept in
a growing condition. In June or early July
knock the plants from the pots, remove part of
the soil and put the plants back in the same pot
or one a size larger, using fresh soil prepared
according to formula No. 2. In potting, at
least one-half of the bulb should extend above
the soil. Place in the shade of a tree or of the

T40
FLOWERING PLANTS

house, as they should be kept as cool as possible.
The plants will make their best growth when
cool weather sets in, but should be removed to
the house in good season before there is any
danger of frost.

FUCHSIAS

The fuchsias are old favorites among house
plants and are desirable forms for spring and
summer blooming. They thrive best when
placed where they receive the morning sun but
they should not be exposed to the hot sun of mid-
day.

Fuchsias with double and single flowers are
upon the market but for house culture the single
varieties are the best as they are usually stronger
growers.

For potting soil formula No. 1 should be used,
or better still No. 1 plus one part leaf-mold.
When the plants are making a good growth
water freely and when in bud and flower, feed
liberally with liquid manure or fertilizer.
Fuchsias bloom most freely when not given too
much root space. Plants in smaller pots and

141
WINDOW GARDENING

well rooted, will, if liberally fed and watered,
give a wealth of flowers.

Young plants may be easily propagated by
means of cuttings during the winter months and
will bloom freely during the following summer.

Large plants may be carried over winter in a
dry cellar, but should be kept rather dry though
not allowed to shrivel. In the spring they
should be brought out of the cellar and cut back
to the well-ripened wood. When the plants are
well started either repot or shift. When treated
in this manner old fuchsias will give an abun-
dance of bloom during the summer.

GERANIUM

Although the geranium is one of the most
common, it is at the same time one of the most
satisfactory house plants. It may not always
be in bloom yet its profuse foliage always in-
sures it a welcome in the window garden.
(Figs. 24 and 41.)

Geraniums are fond of the sun and should be
given the lightest window if they are expected
to flower. In former years, plants three to four

142
 

 

 

 

Fig. 41. The old favorite

 
WINDOW GARDENING

feet high fairly covered with flowers were not
uncommon.

Geraniums of various colors are on the market
but only the free bloomers should be selected
for the window garden. In addition to the vari-
eties of Pelargonium, commonly called the ge-
raniums, there are other species which are also
desirable for the window garden. Among these
are the ivy-leaved geraniums, Lady Washing-
ton geraniums and numerous scented forms such
as the rose, nutmeg, and lemon geraniums.

Young plants may be easily raised from cut-
tings at any time during the cooler months. The
cuttings may either be planted in sand in the
cutting box, or be potted separately in small
pots in a mixture of two parts loam and one
part sand. No fertilizer should be used in this
soil. During the time of rooting the cuttings
must be protected, as in Figs. 26 and 27. When
rooted the plants may be shifted to larger pots
using soil prepared after formula No. 1. This
same soil answers in the shifting of large plants.

If the plants to be used for the window gar-
den have been grown outside during the sum-

144
FLOWERING PLANTS

mer, they should be carefully lifted before there
is any danger from frost. When the plants are
large they should be cut back somewhat to make
them more symmetrical.

HELIOTROPES

Where a light sunny window is available
heliotropes may be grown with success. These
may be secured in several varieties, varying
from white to the deeper shades of purple. All
are sweet-scented. (Fig. 12.)

Care should be taken that the soil never dries
out entirely as it results in the loss of the leaves
and the blighting of the flower-buds.

Young plants are easily raised from cuttings
or seed. Plants no longer desired for the win-
dow may be planted in the garden and will
bloom allsummer. Those to be used in the win-
dow garden, however, should be kept growing
in pots, as they are very difficult to lift from the
open soil.

A light rich loam, such as that of formula
No. 1, makes a very congenial soil for the helio-
tropes.

145
WINDOW GARDENING

IMPATIENS

There are no more desirable plants for the
dwelling than the Impatiens or ever-bloomers.
As they are seldom without flowers, they al-

 

 

 

 

 

Fig. 42. The Impatiens

ways add a touch of color to the window garden.

There are two forms equally suited for house

culture. The old form, Impatiens sultana, has

flowers of a rose-pink color while those of Impa-
146
FLOWERING PLANTS

tiens holstii, the latest introduction, are of a
bright vermilion color. (Fig. 42.)

They do best in a south or west window,
where they can secure abundant light. During
the summer they may be planted in the open,
but should be given a situation protected from
the hot midday sun.

Propagation is easily effected either by seeds
or by cuttings. The cuttings root readily in
sand when kept in a warm room.

The soil best adapted to the Impatiens is a
rather light and rich loam, (Formula No. 1.)

OXALIS

The oxalis is an old-fashioned flower easily
grown and seldom attacked by insects. The
various forms do equally well as pot or basket
plants, but when grown in baskets they should
be massed by themselves to give the best results.

Most of the forms suitable for the window
garden are raised from bulbs and are propagated
by bulb division.

They thrive best in well drained loam. (For-
mula No.1.) In potting keep the tops near the

147 |
WINDOW GARDENING

surface and use standard pots to give plenty of
root space. A number should be placed in each
pot so as to secure a mass of foliage and flowers.
When in bud and flower they should receive oc-
casional applications of liquid fertilizer.

Plants for winter blooming should be started
in August or September. When the plants are
through blooming and the foliage has begun to
die, water should be gradually withheld and
when the tops become dead the pots should be
laid on their sides, and stored in some dry place.
They should be kept in this condition until plant-
ing time, when the bulbs may be taken out and
repotted in fresh soil.

POINSETTIA

The poinsettia with its cluster of large scarlet
bracts should be found in every window garden.
Blooming as it does at Christmas time, it not
only adds a touch of color to the window when
other flowers are scarce, but is doubly welcome
since the large scarlet bracts which surround the
flower cluster remain on the plant in full bril-
liance for from four to eight weeks.

148
FLOWERING PLANTS

After blooming, the plant may be removed
to the cellar and set in a dry place where it will
not freeze. It then requires no more attention
until the following spring. In June it should
be brought up and all the soil shaken from the
roots. The plant should be cut back, until only
one or two eyes of the previous season’s growth
are left. (Fig. 9.) It may then be repotted,
using soil prepared according to formula No. 1.
After watering thoroughly it may be set out in
the yard for the summer. In the fall when the
weather begins to get cool the plants should be
removed to the house as they are likely to lose
their leaves if chilled. When well established
they should be watered carefully and treated oc-
casionally with liquid fertilizer.

PRIMULA

There are several kinds of primulas that make
satisfactory house plants. The old fashioned
primrose, P. sinensis (Fig. 23), is perhaps the
best, although P. obconica (Fig. 43) becomes
larger and produces a greater abundance of
flowers. In addition to these there is a smaller

149
WINDOW GARDENING

form with an abundance of small flowers, known
as the baby primrose (P. forbesii).

Primulas do best in a light window but re-
quire a cool room and a position well removed

   

Fig. 43. Primula obconica

from the fire. They can safely stand a night

temperature of from 45 to 50 degrees. When

grown in a high temperature the plants become

drawn and the flowers small and less numerous.

The primulas should be watered freely, the
150
FLOWERING PLANTS

soil never being permitted to become dry, since
the plants are quickly injured by drying out.

A rather rich porous loam such as may be pre-
pared by adding a little leaf-mold to formula
No. 1 is best adapted for primulas. If no leaf-
mold is at hand use No. 1 alone. Care must be
exercised in shifting primulas to see that the base
of the plant rests firmly on the soil although it
should not be buried. If planted too shallow
so that the plant hangs to one side, it may easily
be held erect by the simple device of three small
sticks set close to the plant in the form of a
triangle.

During the growing season, water as you
would a geranium, carefully avoiding over-
watering.

ROSES

Roses seldom make good house plants, as they
are easily affected by the changes of temperature
in the house and are readily attacked by mildew.

If an attempt is made to grow them they
should be potted in soil such as is given in for-
mula No. 3, and kept in a warm room.

15x
WINDOW GARDENING

SAXIFRAGA

The strawberry geranium or S. sarmentosa
makes one of the best of basket-plants. It re-
produces readily from runners in the same way
as the strawberry and these hanging over the
side add greatly to the beauty of the basket.

The best basket for the strawberry geranium
is one made of wire, as the most striking effect
is produced by covering the sides as well as the
top. This effect is secured either by placing
small plants in the sides when the basket is be-
ing filled or by pinning the runners to the moss
and allowing them to root there.

The soil best suited for the strawberry ge-
ranium is a good loam such as may be prepared
from formula No. 1.
CHART

 

 

 

 

 

Wencee es ee Soi, ForMULA EXxposurE it
PAGE

Amaryllis ....129} Off-sets.......... NOE okiecatccens Sunshine. ...| 60-70
Araucaria ...115| Seed............. No. 1. Leaf Mold../Light........ 55-60
Asparagus....111/ Seed. ............ ING: aT sieenvin se ves Sunshine.....| 60-70
Aspidistra....114] Division.......... NOsl anaes: eeses Sun or shade.| 60-75
Azalea....... 190} (sevens essen ean Gotien ING. Bisco jendioes eau Partial sun...} 50-70
Begonia...... 132) Cuttings oo cus No. 2. Manure....|“Shade”..... 55-70
Cactus’: siccas 134| Seed and Cuttings/See description....|Sun.......... 55-70
Callas ss scsee 133] Off-sets .......... NO. Daseiawerees SURssescest es 60-70
Carnation... .136| Cuttings ......... Nos Tissddese Sues DUNG is eee 55-65
Chrysanthe-

TUDES cecrctsle 137| Cuttings ......... NG. Tiscctereiee stare SUNescesseyee 55-65
Cyclamen ....140] Seed ............. NOM 2 ini ence cers Partial shade.| 50-60
Cyperus...... 116} Seed and Division|No. 1............. SUR. as se cae 65-70
Ferns wviccecein 117| Spores & Runners|No. 2...........-. Subdued light} 55-70
Freesia....... 109} Bulbs............ NOH TE deeueege A ae SUD 4 maxes 60-70
Fuchsia...... 141| Cuttings ......... No. 1. Leaf Mold..|No hot sun...| 55-65

~ Geranium....142| Cuttings .........]No.1............- Sunk s eye sane 50-70
Grevillea..... 121) Seed ceca wes. ING: Be ic2t Smee Sun .| 55-65
Heliotrope ...145] Cuttings ......... INO: Tint cence Sic cane. 60-70
Hyacinth.....103| Bulbs............ INET ih natiaiteenciel| Miller aiod-$ Goins 55-70
Impatiens....146| Cuttings ......... Note sceasayeionn Early Sun....| 60-70
Liltesisnceess 1og] Bulbs............ NO. Beasurs eee: Suns, pegaccunes 50-70
Lily-of-the-

Valley ..... 108) Rhizomes........ Noi. 1; Sand we eevec| ee ie oeneesind 65
Narcissus..... 106) Bulbs............ NO: Piacdskitranses Partial Sun...] 55-70
Oxalis vie. cose 147) Bulbs cess cic. as INOS Banc, cavaiesaseeeceisne Sun. iaeeasas 60-70
Palms........ 121] See@ivs csc cas cs INON Ge ca re sinusieic de Shades cel 60-70
Pandanus ....125} Seed and Cuttings|No. 1............. No direct sun.} 65-70
Poinsettia....148] Cuttings ......... NO. To vresionanes: Sub, scores 60-70
Primula ..... 146| SEE. 02.5 ee cso seve NO. Te ieeseasss se DUN: cosines 60-70
ROSES 5.35 8426 151| Cuttings......... INO. Sisceisssdatece ess Suillsasucis's ><: 60-70
Rubbers...... 126] Cuttings ......... INGE his anc cjaieetie Partial shade.| 55-70
Saxifraga..... 152| Runners......... ING o8 i deren teas SUR. cacaa aes 60-70
Tradescantia .128] Cuttings......... NO. Sievitaseerc res Partial shade.| 60-70
Tulip........ tos} Bulbs............ NOpW i heiese vince Partial shade.| 55-70

 

 
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