ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY

NEW YorK STATE COLLEGES
OF
AGRICULTURE AND HomME ECONOMICS

 

AT

CORNELL UNIVERSITY

 

 

 

 
cornell University Library

Street and shade trees.Practical essays
_ THE RURAL LIBRAR Fr

L, No, 16, NEW YORK. March, 1893

{ ‘
-= jeiemered at New York Post-Office as SecOnd-Class Matter:]
= —————S

VED MONTHLY. $3 4 YEAR. SineGlLe Copy, 20 Crs.
5 DouBLe NumB_ER, 40 CTS.

STREET x0 SHADE
TREES.

By
E. C. POWELL,
Assistant Editor of American Gardening,

AND
WILLIAM McMILLAN,

Superintendent of Buffalo Parks.

The Use of Shade Trees.

r.oi) Nursery to Permanent Location.
What Trees to Plant.

| Hardy Trees for Particular Purposes.

‘Shade Trees in City Streets.

 

PUBLISHED BY
THE RURAL PUBLISHING COMPANY
oe “TIMES BuILoInGe, NEw YORK. ‘
STREET ann SHADE TREES.

CONTENTS.
PAG
Cuarres a—The Useof Shade Trees. 4 2s + he aes m
CHAPTER 11.—From Nursery to Permanent Location. Be 9S ; $
CHAPTER 111.—What Trees to Plant. Be, ea eS OR eae, Sites ith a8 r
CHAPTER Iv.—Hardy Trees for Particular Purposes. se Sse Ong ae We See Je 2)
CHAPTER v.—Shade Trees in City Streets. By WILLIAM MCMILLAN as r 32,

COPYRIGHTED, 1893, BY THE RURAL PUPLISHING COMPANY.
All rights reserved.

 

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:
j
STREET AND SHADE
TREES.

PRACTICAL ESSAYS ON THE SUBJECT OF TREES
'e + -FOR STREET AND LAWN PLANTING,
WITH DIRECTIONS FOR TRANS-
PLANTING, AND A LIST OF
DESIRABLE TREES.

BY

EDWIN C, POWELL,

Assistant Editor of American Gardening,

AND

WILLIAM McMILLAN,

Superintendent of Buffalo Parks.

New York:
THE RURAL PUBLISHING COMPANY.
1893.

et
THE RURAL LIBRARY SERIES.

 

CHAPTER I.

THE USE OF SHADE TREES.

 

REES, other than fruit trees, are planted mainly for two
purposes, ornament and shade. For ornament alone we
desire trees that are beautiful in color or shape of leaf, color
of bark, habit of growth, character of flowers or oddity of
habit. Cut-leaved trees and those of a graceful, weeping habit do
not cast a great amount of shade, nor attain great size; neither
are they able to withstand neglect or abuse. They may be said to
belong to a higher order than other trees, and with their higher
structure comes a greater and more complex development of parts,
which necessarily renders them more delicate and susceptable to in-
jury, climatic conditions and changes. A purple beech or cut-leaved
birch would be as much out of place, even if it could be made to grow,
in a crowded city street, as would a mammoth oak in the back yard of
a 25 x 80 foot city lot. For shade purposes, then, it is desirable to
secure trees which present characteristics somewhat different from
purely ornamental trees. Some of them have directly opposite char-
acteristics, others similar ones; as the character of the one class
approaches that of the other the trees may be used for the one pur-
pose or the other. Shade trees may be used for ornamental pur-
poses, but the purely ornamental trees, so called, are not generally
adapted for shade or street planting.
The chief requisites of a shadetree are that it be large and shapely,

 

with abundant foliage, so that the sun does not shine through to any
extent. A street tree must possess, in addition to the above qualities,
a disposition to asily when of good size, ability to grow
wellin poor, dry, hard soil, be capable of withstanding cold, heat
and dust, and have few or no enemies. Along acountry road or wide
village street the soil is usually better than in acity street, where either
the good surface soil has been removed in grading, or sand or other

 
4 The Rural Library.

equally poor soil has been carted in on top. Paved streets have
gutters that carry off the water, and the soil beneath is usually very
dry and hard. In the city there is also a great amount of dust,
smoke and soot, which is fatal to many trees, especially to evergreens.
The conditions which a tree meets in the city street are directly op-
posite to those of its natural habitat; therefore, it is not strange that
we see few large, healthy trees in the thickly settled streets of any
city of considerable size or age. Most of the large trees we do see
were planted when the city was a mere village, or they came up nat-
urally before the street was laid out. The roots have gone far and
deep in search of food and moisture, and became established before
the present conditions existed. Aloug country roads, in villages and
the suburbs of cities, where the streets are not paved, more of the
natural conditions are present, and dust is the only serious enemy
present. Thus a great variety of trees can be used in such places,
and better and more perfect specimens can be grown. On the lawn,
in parks or private grounds, the chief natural condition which does
not exist is the shade and protection of other trees that is found in
the forest. By planting in groups this_can be partly afforded, but
most trees thrive by themselves after a year or two of slight protec-
tion. A aursery-grown tree is hardier and will stand transplanting
to a position by itself better than a tree taken from the shade of its
native forest. Never buy trees that are brought into the villages in
wagon loads from the woods and peddled about the streets; they are
usually poor investments.

For shade purposes and nobleness of stature there is no tree in the
north which equals or excels the American elm. Its great hight
and spreading, drooping branches place it above all rivals, but the
elm-tree borer has become so serious in many sections in the east
as to almost exterminate it and forbid setting any more. The canker
worm and several caterpillars have also preyed on it, andit is such
a high tree as to be out of reach of most spray pumps. The elms
of Northampton and of Old Hadley, Mass., are famous for their
stateliness and grandeur, and one who has seen them cannot but be
impressed with their beauty and desirability for a street or shade tree
wherever they will grow. The maple is a great favorite, and is a
beautifultree. It grows rapidly and symmetrically, casts a good shade
Street and Shade Trees. 5

in summer, and is pleasant to lookuponin winter. Oaks are admired
for their sturdiness, but are slower growing than the maples, and do
not form so neat and compact a head, and they do not transplant
easily. The locust presents a rough, crooked trunk and many dead
branches, but is valuable for its flowering qualities and quick growth.
The linden and tulip tree are of similar character of foliage, are tall
and upright, with a bare trunk for some distance and a good, round,
close-growing head. A few evergreens are always desirable about a
place to break the monotony of trees of a similar habit of growth and
to present something green and snug in winter. Norway spruces are
good while young, but are apt to be ungainly as they grow large.
They should be kept well trimmed. Pines are effective, especially
when planted in a group or at some distance from the residence. It
is always desirable to plant a variety of trees, especially upon the
home grounds. A list of some of the best trees is given in succeed-
ng chapters.

In laying out a place, trees should be planted in groups, clumps
and masses about the borders, with but few single specimens. A pur-
ple beech and other colored or exotic trees look better alone than
mixed with other trees. Asarule, do not inix deciduous and ever-
green trees promiscuously in the same clump, but keep them separate.
So, also, do not plant oaks and willows together, for they are not
only of widely dissimilar habits of growth, but the rapid growing wil-
low would soon hide and possibly injure the slower growing oak.
Avoid so many trees that the place looks like a forest, but do not
plant so few as to give it a barren aspect. Those of greatly differing
characteristics should be somewhat separated. Planting for color
effect in autumn foliage may also be done, and to secure this a care-
ful study of the shades of leaf of each variety and species, with the
time of their assuming different tints, is necessary. As arule, anin-
dividual tree takes on the same tint each fall, but this color would
probably be made to vary by transplanting the tree to other soil.
The autumn color of American foliage is among the brightest in the
world, and its effects should be more sought in lawn planting.
CHAPTER Il.

FROM NURSERY TO PERMANENT LOCATION.

 

HE life, shape and usefulness of a tree depend upon the

place and method of its early growth, the care it receives in

transplanting, the pruning, and the character of the soil in

which it grows. Always buy nursery-grown trees, or raise
them yourself in nursery rows. This insures tough bark, straight,
clean trunk, a tree that is hardy and used to exposure, and above all,
one which transplants well. Trees grown in the forest or thicket are
long and spindling, unused to the sun and wind, and very difficult to
transplant to the open ground. Where pines and some other trees
are to be set in large numbers to start a forest, they may be trans-
planted when very small from a clearing or field where many trees
have started up. The important item of first cost is often reduced in
this manner. Nearly all trees are better to be transplanted every
two or three years in the nursery row before being set in their per-
muinent position. When possible, it is best to set young trees ; they
areeasier to transplant than large ones, cost less, become established
sooner and make amorerapid growth. Young trees, however, are not
so easily seen in tall grass, and may often be cut off with the scythe or
mowing machine. Therefore, it is necessary to give them good pro-
tection until they become large enough to take care of themselves.
For this purpose two or three good strong stakes may be driven in
about each tree and fastened together with a cord or wire at the top.
A box, made of three or four boards nailed at the edges, set up on
end around the tree, may also be used, but it has the objection of
being a harbor for many kinds of larve, and unless fastened to a stake
may bend or break the tree or rub the bark. If a rope or wire is to
be tied directly around the tree, the bark should be protected by
wrapping with cloth orrubber. A piece of old rubber hose to pass the
rope through will be found useful. For street purposes, trees cannot

(6)
Street and Shade Trees. 7

be set so young and small as in private grounds or parks. They
should be set back from the curbing far enough to be out of reach of
horses, and they must also be protected. Wire screens are manufac-
tured for this purpose, and are very useful. They are light, strong,
neat, durable, do not harbor insects and will notinjure the tree. They
can also be taken off or enlarged as the growth of the tree demands.
A cheap and durable protector for street trees is shown in the ac-
companying engraving. It is made of three stakes about which a
strand of barb fence wire is wound spirally from bottom to top.

Old trees can be utilized as hitching posts by
the use of a three or four foot stick with a snap
in one end and which is attached to the tree by
astaple. This device is shown in the accom-
panying engraving (page 8).

Oaks, nut trees, tulip trees and others with a
long, straight tap-root must be planted or trans-
planted when very young. If that is cut off or
injured when the tree is several years old, the
chances are against the life of the tree. With
trees of this class it is often recommended to plant
the seeds where the tree is to grow, but young
seedlings can be better cared for in a nursery ¥
row than when standing alone.

It is sometimes desirable to transplant large
trees to new grounds to save years of waiting for
young ones to grow. This can be successfully
done with proper precautions. First dig the
hole where the tree is to be set, and make it large
and deep. Then dig a trench around the tree,
Io, 15 or 20 feet or more from the trunk, and
preserve all roots, bending them in toward the
trunk, tying them and covering to prevent drying
out. In this way, gather up all that is possible, gradually working
nearer the tree and under it until a ball of earth remains six to ten
feet in diameter and four to six feet high according to the size of the
tree. The tree, roots and ball of earth may then be raised with jack
screws and placed on a stone-boat or drag, drawn to its place and let

 
8 The Rural Library.

down in a similar manner to which it was raised. There are vehicles
manufactured to raise and carry large trees, and they do it easier and
quicker than in the way described. The hind wheels are high ones,
and the axle is raised to carry the roots off the ground. The tree is
bent over, fastened, raised up and balanced, drawn to the desired
place, let down and straightened. After the tree has been let down,
lay out the roots in the direction from the trunk in which they were
found, and cover them with good, rich earth. The earth must be
settled down around and
under the roots and the
ball, and to do this plenty of
water and a light tamping
must be used. After the
roots are well covered and
the ground leveled off
around the base, put on a
good mulch of hay or straw,
and stake and tie the tree
so strongly that the wind
will not blow it over or out

Safe Hitching-Device. of place. It is also neces-
sary to prune back the head corresponding to the amount of roots
that were removed. Occasional thorough waterings must be givenin
dry weather for the first year or two, or until the tree is well estab-
lished, when the stakes and stays may likewise be dispensed with. It
is sometimes advisable to dig a trench around the tree a year before it
is transplanted in order to develop numerous fibrous roots near the
trunk. Again, the tree may be partly dug and then left until cold
weather freezes the ball, when it can be moved easily. A Norway
spruce twenty feet high, transplanted in this way made a good tree,
although for several years it apparently did not grow any.

In transplanting a young tree the same general principles are to be
observed as with large ones. Dig the tree so as to save all the roots
possible, keep it protected from the sun and wind, and set in large,
deep holes, spread out the roots and pack the soil firmly about them,
and waterif necessary, stake, and mulch as with large trees. Always
setat the same depth that the tree was before digging ; if the hole has

 
Street and Shade Trees. 9

been dug too deep fill it up to the proper level with good soil, When
trees are received from the nursery set them out at once, if the roots
are moist and in good condition. If they are dry, either bury them in
moist earth for a day or two, or wet them and cover thoroughly with
wet hay. With some, such as the Chinese magnolias, it is essential
that they be transplanted after growth has begun. If trees are re-
ceived in the fall, and are not wanted to set until spring, they may be
‘*heeled-in’’ by covering the roots and part of the trunk with earth.
The roots are laid in a furrow made by the plow or spade, and are
covered with earth. The tops are laid down so as to nearly recline
upon the ground. If the ground is well drained and well prepared,
all hardy trees may be set in the fall, but in other cases, set early in
the spring. Trees which are set in the fall should usually have a
slight mound of earth thrown about them.

In pruning before transplanting, the object should be to reéstab-
lish a proper balance between the root and the trunk and branches.
Evergreens should have little or no pruning at this time, but decidu-
ous trees will stand a pretty severe cutting, which, however, must be
done judiciously. Ordinarily, all side branches may be cut back to
one or two buds, and the leader, if slender, should be headed back.
Even with trees three or four inches in diameter, like maples, this
process is desirable ; the dormant buds push out, and a top is started
at any desired hight. With trees of a weeping habit and those
grafted high on straight, tall-growing stocks, care must be used not to
prune so closely as to injure the graft and start the buds on the orig-
inal stock. All broken roots should be cut back to fresh wood, and
very long, straggling roots may be shortened. Pruning is also neces-
sary with some trees after they are well established, to restrict an
unshapely growth in any one direction, to improve the appearance
by thinning out branches, or by thickening up, or to train in any given
direction or manner. Two rules to be always followed are, (1) never
prune without a good reason, and (2) cover all large wounds with
paint, wax or some other material. Asa general rule, it is well to
prune in the spring after growth has commenced, and when far enough
along so that the desired effect may be produced. Late winter prun-
ing is safe, however, and labor is usually cheaper at thattime. The
terminal bud of many trees may be removed, andif done early enough
10 The Rural Library.

another will form or grow in position to take its place without pro-
ducing a crooked growth of the branch. Pruning shears or a knife
are best to use on young trees, and a sharp saw when large branches
are to be removed.

Evergreens may be set during the growing season with good results,
providing moist weather follows and great care is exercised to keep
the roots moist. Both June and August are favorite months, but
June—or when the new growth has just started—is prubably the
safest month in which to plant in the north. If the growth is heavy
and the roots rather small, all the shoots, including the leader, may
be headed-in from two to four inches. There is a common notion
that cutting off the leader injures an evergreen, but this is a mistake ;
a new leader will quickly form. Heading-in the leader tends to make
the tree thick and stocky.

    
 

   

URLS

SONNE eg 1
AR ate,

  

TRANSPLANTING LARGE TREES. READY TO M:VE.
CHAPTER III.

WHAT TREES 10 PLANT.

 

LIST of deciduous and evergreen trees is here given for street

and shade planting for the northern states. No attempt has

been made to describe their botanical characteristics, nor all
the varieties and species of a family. A plain statement of the suit-
ableness of each tree for the purpose wanted, with a brief notice of its
most prominent features, such as habit of growth, color of foliage or
flower, and the soil best adapted to it hasbeen attempted. Many of
the newer introductions will undoubtedly prove to be useful for shade
and street planting, but in this list only some of the most prominent
of those which have been thoroughly tested are inserted.

There is great difference in the quality of shade produced by differ-
ent trees. Some trees, like the catalpa and basswood, are deep bos-
omed and dark, and make a dense, cool, damp shade, which is very
refreshing at mid-day in summer time. Other trees cast a thin and
fleckered shade, which is grateful when one is not tired or overcome
by heat. The deeper shades are drowsy ; the lighter ones are play-
ful and restless. These fleckered shadows screen the force of the
sun’s rays while they do not obscure them, and they seldom afford
good retreats. Yet every roadside and pleasure ground should in
some measure combine the two. In the cooler days of spring and
fall one enjoys the sunshine if it is tempered by thin foliage; in the
summer he hides himself in the dark blankets of maples and bass-
woods.

Ashes (Fraxinus) are not grown to the extent of many other
American trees, chiefly because they are usually found in a wet soil,
and because the top is thin, They usually grow readily, however,
upon upland soils, and are deserving of greater popularity. They do
not leaf out until late in the spring. Along the street, ashes usually
grow finely and make large handsome trees. They are easy to trans-
plant, and are better adapted for planting along country roads than

(11)
12 The Rural Library.

for city or village streets. They are also attractive and useful about
the borders of groves. The white ash is best, with black ash prob-
ably second. The European ashes are seldom planted for shade or
street purposes.

Bald or deciduous cypress ( 7axodium), while more particularly a
southern tree, will do weilin many parts of the north, even as far
north as New York city. Being semi-aquatic, it delights in a moist
soil, although it often thrives upon dryish uplands. It is not valua-
ble for street planting, but for private grounds or parks it is useful.
It is a stately tree of beautifulhabit, with small, feathery, light green

foliage.

ae ( Fagus) are noted for their rich, glossy foliage and ele-
gant habit, and are among ourmost magnificent trees. They are very
difficult to transplant except when quite small, hence are not used to
any great extent for street planting The American beech ( Fagus
Jerruginea) and the European beech (/. sylvatica) are large trees,
often attaining a hight of 60 to 80 feet. The European beech does
not thrive all over the United States as well as the American beech,
especially in the interior states. The cut-leaved, purple and weeping
beeches are all varieties of the European, and are very ornamental as
single specimens on the awn. Beeches prefer alight, dry soil. Nur-
sery-grown trees should be secured, if possible. For single shade
trees in a large lawn or field, the beech is very attractive.

Birches ( Betula) are not as well adapted for street or shade plant-
ing as for ornament. They are too upright and slender in habit of
growth, and most varieties have small, fine leaves. 2. Bhoppattra,
(Indian paper birch) is best adapted for shade purposes, having large
leaves and being a tree of good size. The native black birch casts a
good shade, as do also the larger-growing species, vellow birch and
cherry birch. The paper birch ( &. Japyrifera) is valuable as a lawn
shade tree in the north. The birches grow best in a light, sandy
loam.

Blue gum ( £ucalyptus globulus ) is useful in mild climates for tropi-
cal effects in landscape gardening, also for shade. Its wood is valu-
able for ship building and its leaves for medicinal purposes. [It has
large leaves six to twelve inches long and of a distinct glaucous hue,
ublike any other plant similarly empinyed. In its native country,
 

 

PURPLE-LEAVED BEECH. fagus sylvatica.)
I4 The Rural Library.

Australia, it often grows to a hight of 300 feet, and although a rapid
grower, has hard, durable wood. In California aud the southern

states it is popular.

ee elder (Negundo aceroides, or Acer Negundo) is perbaps the
most rapid growing native tree which is hardy inthe north. The tree
is especially valuable in the prairies, where it is planted more largely
than any other tree, It is extremely hardy. The leaves resemble
those of the ash, and it is oftencalledash-leaved maple. Itis adapted
to streets, and is sometimes u3ed in lawns, but it is a cheap-looking
tree, and there is danger of over planting it.

Catalpas are rapid-growing, tropical looking trees, that are often
grown for their dense shade and their flowers, which are borne in pro-
fusion in July, when other trees are not in bloom. One of the best is
C. bignoniotdes (syn. C. syring@folia ), a native of the south and arapid-
growing, showy tree. C. sfeciosa is a finer, hardier tree and better
adapted for extensive plantinginthenorth. Catalpas thrive in almost
any rich, porous soil.

Cherries, especially the native black or rum cherry ( Prumus serotina)
are useful for street and shade trees. The wild black cherry is one
of the most attractive native trees, attaining a large size and growing
very rapidly. The sweet or mazzard cherry (Prunus Aviunt) has run
wild in many parts of the east. These mazzards often make trees
two feet and more in diameter, and are hardy and valuable. Thesour
oy morello cherries are too low for street trees.

Elm (mus) ranks with the oak and maple in stateliness of growth.
As the oak is called the king of the forest, the elm might be styled the
queen of the field. The tall, broadly waving branches cover a large
area, and trees roo feet high are common. The American or weeping
elm ( U/mus Americana) is probably the handsomest of our American
trees, The majority of ornamental kinds are varieties of the English
elm ( U. campestris). The elm does wellin a variety of soils, but a
moist, deep rich one is best suited to its rapid growth and perfect de-
velopment. There are three species native to the eastern states, of
which the best is the common American elm mentioned above. This
runs into a great variety of forms, which, however, do not always in-
dicate their characteristic features when young. Theso-called water
elm, swamp elm, rock elm, white elm, etc., are a] mere forms of this
Street and Shade Trees. 15

one species. The cork elm ( U racemosa) is a curious slow-growing
tree with stiff corky, winged branches, rarely planted. Theslippery
elm ( UY. fulvaz) is seldom planted because of its stiff open habit, slow
growth and dull foliage.

Fruit trees are less desirable for street or road planting than nut
trees (which see). Plum and peach trees are too small for shade
purposes along a road or street, and also too easily broken, but apple,
pear and cherry trees attain good size. The apple is inclined to grow
low and spreading, and the branches will be in the way as the tree
grows old, Pears are slow-growing trees, but sometimes many reach
very large size. Many fruit trees, and especially apples, have too
rough leaves for road-side planting. Such leavesholdthe dust. Fruit
trees rarely bear well upon the street, because of neglect.

Ginkgo, or maiden-hair tree (Salisburia, or Ginkgo adiantifolin)
is a native of Japan and notable as an oddity. It combines the char-
acteristics of the conifer and the deciduous tree in its fruit and habit.
The treeis of medium size, rapid growth, with beautiful foliage of the
maiden-hair fern type. It thrives well in any good: soil, and is
adapted for ornamental purposes rather than for extensive planting.
As it grows tall and straight, it can be recommended for narrow

streets.
ius chestnuts and buckeyes (.2scudus) are trees of magnificent
foliage, large growth and fine habit. They arerapid growers, and in
the spring are beautiful with the abundance of large panicles of white
or yellow or reddish flowers. The heads are very round and compact,
and often form such a dense shade that grass will not grow beneath.
They are a heavy tree on the lawn, and their fruit, which ripens in the
fall, is so much in demand by small boys for missiles that the branches
in consequence are often broken and injured. The Ohio buckeye
(4sculus glabra) is a weil knowu tree of the westernstates. Ithas
yellow flowers, and blooms before the others. The double white-flow-
ered horse chestnut is a superb variety, with double flowers and little
or no fruit. Horse chestnuts do well in most soils, but the more
loamy it is the better, The common or Old World horse chestnut
is most too stiff and farmal for extensive planting.

Kentucky coffee tree (Gymnocladus Canadensis) is a fine native
tree of medium size, resembling a locust or acacia in foliage. Itisof
16 The Rural Library.

rapid upright growth, has very rough bark, stiff blunt shoots and
feathery foliage of a bluish green color. It is very hardy and thrives
best in a deep, rich soil. It is easy to transplant if nursery-grown
stock is obtained, and should be planted more extensively. Its shade
is thin but grateful. It bears very large bean-like pods. Sometrees
are entirely staminate-flowered and produce no seeds.

Larch is a name applied to the various species of the genus Larix,
which is one of the pine or cone-bearing family, although the larches,
like the bald cypress, are deciduous trees. The native larch or tam-
arack (Larix Americana) inhabits swamps, but in cultivation it
thrives in most any moist soil. The European larch (Larix £uro-
pew) is a broader and shorter tree, which thrives upon dry soils. Both
species are occasionally seen on road-sides, where they make good
effects. A clump of the tamarack in low places on the road preserves
the natural look of the country and makes a pleasing contrast with
the commoner road trees.

p-~Linden, basswood or lime tree ( 77/a) is a beautiful genus, and de-
serves more attention thanit receives. The trees are of rapid growth,
beautiful habit and useful for soft timber as well as for ornament.
The flowers, which are borne in profusion in late spring or early sum-
mer, are very sweet and handsome and attractive to bees. The or-
namental-leaved and ornamental-barked varieties are all forms of
Tilia Europea, the Europeanlinden. These named varieties are very
useful for home grounds, but for street trees the common wild bass-
wood ( 7. Americana) is probably the best, although the European
linden is very generally planted in the east. There is little difference
in foliage between the two. All the lindens or basswoods cast deep
and quiet shade, and are valuable for this reason. They thrive upon
most soils, although the moister ones are better.

Locust or acacia ( Robinia) makes a good shade tree, and is very
handsome when in bloom. The common or flowering locust (4.
Pseudacacia) is valuable for its timber, and is a rapid-growing tree of
good form. It has large panicles of white or yellowish blossoms,
which are very sweet scented. The rose or moss locust (A. hispida) is
a shrub of spreading, irregular growth, and bears elegant clusters of
rose-colored flowers during June and at intervals throughout the
season. The honey locust, or three-thorned acacia ( Gleditschia
Street and Shade Trees. 17

triacanthos ), belongs, like the last, to the pea family, but the flowers
are comparatively inconspicuous. The tree is a very open, straggling
and picturesque grower, and.the long curled or crooked pods are
curious. The tree is densely armed with spines or thorns when it
attains some size. The honey locust is valuable for roadside plant-
ing. It is always attractive. There is a thornless variety of the
honey locust. The shade of both the locusts is rather sparse. Any
soil not too moist will do for locusts. They are transplanted readily
and grow with great vigor, making valuable posts in a short time.

 

We as, .
HONEY OR THORN Locus1.
18 The Rural Library.

Magnolias for lawn effects, especially in groups, are not excelled.
They are handsome, tall trees of stately form and splendor of growth.
They have beautiful flowers that are borne in abundance in early
spring and large, rich, glossy foliage. They are better adapted for
the lawn than for the street. They should always be transplanted
in the spring, and the Chinese species and varieties at the period when
they are coming into growth. Use great care in their removal, pre-
serve all the fibrous roots possible and protect them from the wind and
sun. There are many kinds of magnolias in cultivation, few of which
are adapted for shade or street purposes in the north. The hardiest
oneis the cucumber tree. Theswamp laurel or sweet bay ( Magnolia
glauca) is also hardy as far north as New England, but it rarely
attains sufficient size in this latitude to make it valuable for shade.
The umbrella tree (4. “#rif~eta/a) is useful for a lawn shade tree in
the north. MM. speciosa, M. Soulangeana and M. LenneZare among the
best and hardiest foreign kinds. The cucumbec tree ( A/. acuminata)
isa tall-growing, beautiful pyramidal tree. The leaves are long and
bluish-green, the flowers yellow, tinged with bluish purple and the
fruit when green resembles a cucumber. This grows wild from New
York southward. The great-leaved magnolia (A/. macrophylla) is a
medium sized tree with leaves nearly two feet long and flowers of
immense size; not hardy north. Thurber’s Japan magnolia (d.
Kobus ) is one of the tallest of the Chinese magnolias, and has fragrant
blush-white flowers. Magnolias will grow in any good soil, but one

ve is rich, warm and dry is best.

“Maples ( Acer) are among our most valuable and ornamental trees.
They are of large growth, broad rather than high, but often attaining
a hight of seventy-five feet or more. They are easily transplanted,
and do well in a variety of soils. The head is symmetrical and spread-
ing, casting a good shade, but not too dense. In rows along streets
they are especially fine, and being vigorous growers and free from
disease, they are deservedly popular for this purpose. The white,
silver-leaved or soft maple (4. dasycarfum ) isa rapid growing tree,
and has foliage bright green above and silvery beneath. The sugar,
hard or rock maple (A. saccharinun) is of slower growth than the
former, but more symmetrical and desirable. The red or swamp
maple (A. ruérum) is a small tree, with small, rather light foliage,
Street and Shade Trees. 19

which is brilliant inautumn. The red flowers in very early spring are
very attractive. It deserves more attention as a road tree, especially
in the lower places. Acer campesire, the European maple, is a desir-
able small tree for the middle latitudes. The Norway maple (A.
Plztanoides) is a low-headed very dense tree, which casts the deepest
shade of all the maples. As a lawn shade tree it is unexcelled, but
the head is too low for street planting. The sycamore maple (4.
Pseudo-platanus) is a rather small tree, with dense, dark foliage, and is
useful for both lawns and streets. In the northern states it is often
injured by the winters. There are a number of species and varieties
with ornamental foliage, which makes them very useful as single spe¢-
imens. Most of these, however, are large shrubs or small trees.
Wier’s cut-leaved silver maple is a form of Acer dasycarfum. The
Japan maples are large, handsome shrubs. Maples like a deep,
loamy, well-drained soil.

Mountain ash is a pleasant tree of rapid growth, symmetrical form
and long, slender branches. The fruit is bright red, borne in bunches
and often hangs on until winter, giving the tree a very distinct and
handsome appearance. Borers are the great enemy and the tree is
not planted largely on this account. They can be dug out or killed by
thrusting a sharp wire into their burrows. The common mountain
ash is the European rowan (Pyrus Aucuparia), although it is often
sold for the American species. The American mountain ash, while
an excellent tree, is not so much sold by nurserymen as the other.
These trees are not ashes, but are closely related to apples and pears.
They are useful for lawn shade trees and bowers. The mountain ash
grows well in any good soil.

Mulberries of various kinds are useful for shade, especially the com-
mon large half-wild forms of the white mulberry (AZorus alba). This
species attains to a large size, often nearly or quite two feet in dia-
meter and resembles a much exaggerated high old apple tree. The
leaves are glossy and attractive. The fruit varies from almost white

to violet and purple-black, and is much sought by poultry and birds. -
The Russian mulberry is a form of this species. It is usually a low
tree or large shrub, very hardy, but valueless for fruit. The true
black mulberry (4%. nigra) is very little known in America, and is
not hardy in the northernmost states. The native or red mulberry
20 The Rural Library.

(44, rubra) is a hardy and most robust tree of medium size in the
north, but reaching a hight of seventy feet in the south. It shouldbe
better known as a shade and street tree.

Nettle tree (Celts occidentalis) is a native tree of moderate size
and fine, spreading habit, with the look of anelm. It has numerous
slender branches and thick, rough bark. The leaves are about the
same size as those of the apple, but more pointed, and of a bright
shiny green. It does well in any good soil, and should be better
known, both on the street and lawn.

Nut trees are desirable for street planting, but when the nuts begin
to ripen boys are continually climbing the trees or throwing sticks
and stones to knock them off, and the trees are soon injured, broken
and otherwise disfigured. On the lawn they are usually dirty trees,
but they give good shade and are handsome specimens. The hick-
ories (Carya) are slow-growing trees of handsome, upright habit.
The common white or shag-bark hickory is perhaps the best for shade,
although the bitter-nut is a unique, feathery tree, and worthy of ex-
tensive planting. Hickories usually transplant with difficulty, uniess
they are nursery-grown or have had the tap-root cut a year or two
before removal. The pecan (C. o/veformis) is not hardy in the
north. The walnut is the most valuable of all our native trees for
timber. The black walnut (/ug/ans nigra) is easily grown, andif
carefully handled can be transplanted with safety. It is a noble
roadside tree. The butternut (/. cézevea) resembles the black wal-
nut in growth, but has smooth and less rugged branches and usually
athicker top. Itis also an ideal street tree. The English walnut,
(J. regia) is not hardy inthenorth. The chestnut ( Castanea Amer?-
cana) would be a valuable tree could the boys be kept from injuringit.
It grows rapidly and makes a handsome top, which is broad and dense.
The native chestnut is the best tree for street and shade planting, and
the nuts, while small, are better in quality than those of the European
species. Nut trees grow well in any fertile soil. Chestnuts do better
oe soil than most of the others.

Oaks (Quercus) are the grandest and sturdiest of all our trees.
They are branching and spreading in their habit of growth, and old
trees are very picturesque and bold. The leaves of Many species
cling to the branches with great tenacity, and many remain on all win-
Street and Shade Trees. 21

ter and even after the young growth has started in the spring. They
turn to red, brown, scarlet or purple in the fall, and sometimes re-
main colored until they fall. Being of slow growth and hard to trans-
plant after they have attained any size, oaks are not adapted for
street planting unless nursery grown. The American white oak
( Quercus albz) is one of the finest of our native trees in habit, although
other oaks excel it in foliage. The scarlet oak ( Q. coccinca\ and the

       

  

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“MW im “ ally

A Live OAK COVERED WITH SPANISH Moss.

   

black oak ( Q. coccinea var. tinctoria) are of more rapid growth than
the white oak. These are especially desirable for their bright autumn
foliage. The leaves of these species are very deeply cut, and the
acorns are small, with a deep cup. The red oak (Q. ruéra) is of
large size and rapid growth, with handsome foliage. Theleaves are
less deeply cut than in the last two, and the acornis large, with a very
shallow cup. The tree is a very open grower. The live oak (Q.
22 The Rural Library.

virens) is a conspicuous and useful evergreen tree in the southern
United States. It is shown in the cut. Other northern oaks
of great merit are the burr oak (Q. macrocarpa) and the swamp
white oak ( Q. dicolor). Two or three chestnut-like oaks, of which
the chief is Quercus Prinus, are also desirable trees for shade. The
willow oak ( Q. Phellos) is prized in the middle states. The English
oak ( Q. Robur or Q. pedunculata ) is a very slow-growing tree in Amer-
ica, and is rarely planted for shade purposes.

Pepperidge or gum tree ( Vyssa multiflora ) is useful as an oddity.
It reaches 30 to 50 feet in hight and is chiefly grown because of its
foliage, which turns to a bright crimson in autumn, and its picturesque
habit. The trees present a most curious, deflected habit of growth,
which makes them exceedingly striking inthe landscape. Every lawn
should have a specimen. The pepperidge is used to best advantage,
however, when planted in small groups. A low, damp, moist situa-
tion, as a swamp, is best suited to it, although it often thrives upon
uplands.

Poplars ( Populus) are very useful as ornamental, quick-growing
trees. They are of upright growth, and thrive in a variety of soils,
but do best ina mvist one. The white or silver poplar ( P. alba) is
a tree of wonderfully rapid growth and wide spreading habit, but
it sprouts so badly that it is in great disfavor. The thick leaves
are very white beneath and maple-like in shape, and for this reason
the tree is sometimes called silver maple. The Lombardy poplar
(FP. fastigiata or dilatata) is useful in landscape gardening to break
the somber effect of most other trees. It is a tall-growing species,
often growing as high as rso feet. It is a tree that is commonly over-
planted, however. A row of Lombardies along a street is exceed-
ingly formal and the shade is not great. The tree sprouts badly
along highways, and is apt to be a nuisance. In the northern states
the old trees are often injured by the winters. A clump of Lombard-
ies here and there upon some conspicuous site makes a very bold and
picturesque object. The common cottonwood or Canadian poplar
(P. monilifera) of our central and western states is a tall-growing
tree, and delights in moist soil, especially along streams. It is one of
the most useful of all the poplars. The common aspen ( P. tremu-
Joides )is a neglected tree. The bright, dangling leaves make it a gay
Street and Shade Trees. a3

tree. It does not attain toa large size and is therefore not adapted
to roadside use. The large-toothed poplar (P. grandidentata) is
a larger growing tree of a heavier cast. The balm of Gilead (FP.
candicans ) is one of the freest-growing and most useful members of
the genus. The poplars should never be planted heavily, but when
used with discretion they are among the mest useful trees.

Red bud or Judas tree (Cercés Canadensis )is a medium sized, orna-
mental tree, that has reddish-purple flowers, which cover the branches
before the leaves appear. The head is of irregular, roundish shape,
and the round leaves glossy green above and grayish green beneath.
The tree does best in a deep, friable, sandy loam. Itis not large

oe for street planting, but can be used for shade in small lawns.

Sweet gum or bilsted ( Liguzdambar Styracifiua) makes a magnifi-
cent tree in the south and middle states, often attaining a hight of 100
feet and four or five feet in diameter. North of Pennsylvania it is
not usually hardy without protection. The head is roundish or tap-
ering, and the tree is beautiful at all stages of its growth, but espe-
cially in the autumn when the leaves, which have been a beautiful
glossy green all summer, turnto a purplishcrimson. A moist, loamy
soil is best suited to it. It has the habit of a cottonwood with the

aves of a maple.

Sycamore, buttonwood or American plane tree ( Platanus occiden-
zis) is a tree of large growth and beautiful form, well adapted to
plant along country roads and in lawns or parks. Itrequires a rich,
deep, moist soil, and does best when its roots can reach the water.
The oriental or common plane (FP. orientalis) is a fine species, grow-
ing 60 to 8o feet high, but is not hardy inthe north. The plane tree
is conspicuous for its long bare white arms and its curiousleaves and
balls of fruit. It is easily transplanted, and grows rapidly. It is not

properly appreciated.

oe tree or whitewood ( Liriodendron Tulipifera) is a magnificent
native tree of tall, pyramidal habit. The flowers, which are borne in
abundance as the tree attains age, resemble tulips, and the leaves are
broad, glossy and of a bright-green color. The trees are difficult to
transplant except when very small, unless they are nursery-grown.
For the lawn it is one of the best of the trees of this habit. A deep,
loamy soil is best suited to its growth.
24 The Rural Library.

* Willows ( Salix) are very rapid-growing trees, hardy and adapted

to a great variety of soils and purposes. The white willow, which
came from Europe, is popular where large trees are wanted in a short
time. It is transplanted very readily, and even willow posts, if fresh,
driven in the ground will root and grow. The willow prefers a moist
soil. This and similar willows are usually not desirable for lawn trees,
because they drop their leaves and twigs so easily. Along water
courses and in low places and near springs they are often very desir-
able. There are many species and varieties of both upright and
drooping growth. Asingle specimen of Sa/ix Babylonica, the common
weeping willow, makes a very handsome tree. The natiye peach
willow (S. amygdaloides) is one of the neatest of the native small
trees, and should bebetter known. The black willow (S. migra), also
a native, is a useful tree in low places. The willows are not adapted
for city streets, as the soil is usually too dry.

Yellow wood ( Cladrastis tinctoria syn. Virgilia futea ) is one of the
finest of our Americantrees. Itis a moderate grower, witha broadly
rounded head, leaves of a light-green color, which turn yellow in
autumn. The flowers are white and appear in June in great profu-
sion in long, drooping recemes. It is one of our finest hardy flower-
ing trees, and does well in any soil or situation.

CONIFER.E OR EVERGREENS,

The arbor-vite ( 7huya) is more used as a hedge plant than fora
shade tree because of its small size and close, upright growth. The
white cedar ( 7. giganfea) a native of the northwest, often reaches a
hight of 150 feet, and is a graceful, stately tree, suitable for a position
on any large lawn. TheAmerican or western arbor-vite ( 7. occiden-
valts) and its varieties, are more hardy than its eastern or oriental
neighbor ( 7. orientalis) which, although a handsome, and more or-
namental tree, is not hardy enough for this climate. The leaves of
the arbor-vitae are small and scale-like and the habit of growth close,
compact and upright. It is useful for single specimens and wind-
breaks.

Cypresses ( Cugressus) make elegant, large trees where they are
hardy, but they will not stand our severe winters. Lawson’s cypress
(C. Lawsontana) forms a very large, handsome tree in Califoraia,
Street and Shade Trees, 25

but is not more than half hardy in New York. It has elegant droop-
ing branches and dark, glossy green leaves, tinged with a glaucous
hue. The cypress will grow in any good garden soil, but one that is
deep, moist and rich suits it best.

Pines ( Pizus) are of the greatest value in landscape and ornamen-
tal gardening, as well as for practical utility for shade trees. They
are rapid growers, and nearly all kinds of soils and latitudes are suited
to their growth. The white pine (P. Strobus), perhaps the best of
our native pines, has light, delicate and silvery green foliage, and flour-
ishes in the poorest, light, sandy soil. The red or Norway pine (/.
vesinosa) rivals the white pine for ornamental planting. Itisof rapid
growth, good form, long life, and perfectly hardy when once estab-
lished. The Soctch pine (/. sy/vestris) isa quick-growing tree and
especially useful for hedges. Austrian pine ( P. Austriaca) is one of
the most rapid-growiag of all the species, and is much planted in this
country for shade and shelter. It is a coarse species, and should not
be planted near the residence. The heavy wooded or bull pine (P.
ponderosa), a Rocky mountain species, grows well in very light, dry
soil, and reaches great size, but is not hardy in the northernmost
states. It does not do so wellina moist atmosphere. The Monterey
pine ( P.zusignis) is one of the handsomest of all. It is, however,
only hardy enough to bear mild winters.

Spruces, firs and hemlocks belong to the cone family. Theleaves
of the spruces and hemlocks are needle shaped, and grow all about
the shoots ; those of the firs are flat and two ranked. The limbs are
slender, grow nearly horizontal from the trunk, and are inclined some-
what upwards or downwards in the different species. Trees of this
genus are of great value for hedges, windbreaks and as ornamental
specimens, but are not useful as shade trees until they reach consid-
erable size. The Norway spruce (Picea excelsa) is very hardy, easily
transplanted, but a coarse, unsightly tree when it reaches age, unless
the tips of the shoots have been cut in from yeartoyear. Ournative
hemlock ( Zsuga Canadensis) is a very beautiful and graceful tree,
and handsome onthe lawn. It has delicate dark foliage somewhat
like the yew, andis distinct from allother trees. It should be planted
more extensively upon private grounds. The white spruce (Picea
alba) is a native tree of medium size, very hardy andvaluable. The
26 The Rural Library.

Colorado blue spruce (Picea pungins) is one of the most beautiful
and valuable of allthe spruces. The foliage is of a rich blue or sage
color and the tree is very hardy, and similar in habit and growth to
the white spruce. The firs are not as popular as the spruces or hem-
locks, but are very handsome trees. Nordmand’s silver fir ( Adzes
Nordmanniana) is one of the most beautiful species, of symmetrical
form, vigorous and quite hardy. A moist, rich soil is best suited to
the growth of hemlocks, firs and spruces. They are not well adapted
for shade purposes alone, but as single specimens and for groups and
shelter belts they are indispensable.

 

 

 

At plant- Size, Size, Size of White Pine, Aug., 18y1,
ing,May, Aug., Aug., 27 months after planting. Fig-
1889. 1889. 1890. ures indicate feet.
CHAPTER IV.

HARDY TREES FOR PARTICULAR PURPOSES.

 

The following lists of trees, largely native species, which are
adapted to particular uses in the north, is part of a catalogue pre-
pared in 1887 by L. H. Bailey. The trees are arranged somewhat in
the order of their merit. The species of each genus are strictly so
arranged so far as possible.

I. Trees for Shelter Belts.

White pine, Pizus Strobus.
Austrian pine, P. Austriaca.
Scotch pine, P. sylvestris.
Red pine, P. restnosa.
Norway spruce, Picea exce/sa,
Any of the rapidly growing, native forest trees, especially :
American elm, Uémus Americana,
Sugar maple, Accr saccharinum and var. nigrum,
Basswood, Zilia Americana.
Cottonwood, Popucus monilifera.
Balsam poplar, P. balsamifera.
Wild black cherry, Prunus serotina.

II. Trees for Groups or Single Specimens.

A. Deciduous trees.

Norway maple, Acer platanoides.
One of the finest trees for single lawn specimens, especially in tranquil scenes.
It droops too much for roadside planting.
Black sugar maple, 4. saccharinum vat. nigrum.
Darker and softer in aspect than the ordinary sugar maple.
Sugar maple, A. saccharinum.
This and the last are the best roadside trees.
Wier’s cut-leaved silver maple, 4. @asycarpum, hort. var.
Light and graceful. Especially desirable for pleasure grounds.
(27)
28 The Rural Library.

Silver maple, 4. dasycarpum.

Desirable for water-courses and for grouping. Succeeds on both wet and dry
lands.

Red, soft, or swamp maple, A. rubrum.

Valuable for its spring and autumn colors, and for variety in grouping.
Sycamore maple, A. Pseudo-platanus.

A slow grower, to be used mostly as single specimens.
American elm, CU/mus Americana.

One of the most graceful and variable of trees ; useful for many purposes.
Cork elm, U. racemosa.

Softer in aspect than the last, and more picturesque in winter. Slow grower.
Red, or slippery elm, U. fulva.

Occasionally useful in a group or shelter belt. A stiff and straggling grower.

European silver basswood, 7zé#a argentea and varieties. ( 7. alba.)

Very handsome. Leaves silvery white beneath. Among others, is a weeping
variety.

American basswood, 7ilta Americana.

Very valuable for single trees on large lawns, or for roadsides,
European basswood, 7. Europea and varieties.
Tulip tree or whitewood, Lirtodendron tulipifera.

Unique in foliage and flower. Should be in every collection.

Cucumber tree, J/egnolta acuminata,
Not reliable north of Buffalo and Detroit. Handsome.
Yellow wood, or Virgilia, Cladrastis tinctoria.
The finest hardy flowering tree.

Swamp white oak, Quercus bicolor.

A very desirable tree, usually neglected. Very picturesque in winter.
The oaks are slow growers and transplant with difficulty. Natural specimens
are most valuable A large oak, well grown, is one of the grandest of trees.

Burr oak, Q. macrocarpa.

Chestnut oak, Q. Primus, and especially the common var. acum-
inata, or Q. Muhlenbergit.

White oak, Q. alba,
Shingle oak, Q. zwbricaria.

Scarlet oak, Q. coccinea.
This and the next two are glossy-leaved, and are desirable for gay scenes.

Black oak, Q. coccinea var. tinctoria,
Red oak, Q. rubra.
Street and Shade Trees. 29

Pepperidge or gum-tree, Myssa multiflora.

_ One of the oddest and most ploturesate of our native trees. Especially attract-
ive in winter. Most suitable for low lands.

Horse chestnut, £sculus Hippocastanum.
Useful for single specimens.

Showy catalpa, Cafalpa speciosa,

Very dark, soft foliaged tree of small to medium size. Showy in flower. To be
used as single specimens.

Smaller catalpa, C. dignontoides.
Less showy than the last, blooming a week ortwo later. Lesshardy.

Black ash, Fraxinus sambucifolia.

es of the best of the light leaved trees. Does well on dry soils. Not appre-
ciated. =

White ash, /. Americana.

Kentucky coffee-tree, Gymnocladus Canadensis.
Light and graceful. Unique in winter.
Bitter-nut, Carya amara.
Much like black ash in aspect. Not appreciated.
Hickory, C. alba.
Useful in remote groups or belts.
Cut-leaved weeping birch, Betula alba, hort. var.
The finest of gay trees.
Cut-leaved birch, &. a/ba, hort. var.
European birch, B. alba.
American white birch, &. alba, var. populifolia.
Paper or Canoe birch, 2. papyrifera.
Purple birch, B. aéba, hort. var.

Cherry birch, &. denta.

Well grown specimens resemble the sweet cherry. Both these and the next
make attractive light leaved trees. They are not appreciated.

Yellow birch, &. “utea.

Aspen, Populus tremuloides.
Very valuable when nicely grown. Too much neglected. Most of the poplars
are suitable for pleasure grounds
Larged-toothed aspen, P. grandidentata,
Unique in summer color. Heavier in aspect than the last. Old trees become
weed
Weeping poplar, /. grandidentata, hort. pendula,

An odd, small tree, suitable for small places.
30 - The Rural Library.

Cottonwood, P. monilifera.

Desirable in a group or near water. The staminate specimens, only, should be
planted, if possible.

Balm of Gilead, P. balsamifera, var. candicans.
Desirable in remote groups or belts. Foliage not pleasant in color.

Lombardy poplar,. ?. dzlatata.

Desirable for certain purposes, but too much in use. It is apt to be short Sived
in the north.

Bolle’s poplar, P. Bolleana.

Habit much like the Lombardy. Leaves curiously lobed, very white beneath,
making a pleasant contrast.

Locust, Robinia Pseudacacia.

Should be planted at some distance from the dwelling. Useful in grouping.
Attractive in flower. Handsomeas single speclmens when young.

Honey locust, Gleditschia triacanthos.

Like the last, this should be planted rather remote from the residence, or near
the borders. The foliage of both is light.

Beech, Fagus ferruginea.

Specimens which are symmetrically developed are among our best lawn trees.
Picturesque in winter.

Chestnut, Castanea vesca and var. Aniertcana.

Plane or Buttonwood, Féatanus occidentalis.

Young or middle-aged trees are soft and pleasant in aspect, but they soon become
thin and ragged below. Most desirable in belts. Unique in winter.

Sassafras, Sassafras officinale.

Suitable in the borders of groups or for single specimens. Peculiar in winter.
Too much neglected

Maiden-hair tree, So/isburia adiantsfolia,

Very odd and striking. To be used for single specimens.
Rowan or European mountain ash, Pyrus Aucuparia.
Weeping willow, Salix Baby/onica.

To be planted sparingly, preferably near water, The sort known as the Wis-
consin weeping willow appears to be much hardier than this type.

White willow, S, a/sa, and various varieties, one of which is the

Golden willow.
May be used sparingly.

Wild black cherry, Prunus serofina.
Nettle-tree, Celtis occidentalis.

Box elder, Megundo aceroides,
European larch, Larix Europea.

American Jarch or tamarack, L. Americana.
Strect and Shade Trees. 31

Bald cypress, Zavrodium distichum,

at entirely hardy in New York, Becomes scraggly after fifteen or twenty
years,

Butternat, Juglans cinerea.
Walnut, J. migra.

Ailantus, Aclintus glandulosus.

A rapid grower, with large pinnate leaves. The staminate plant possesses a
disagreeable oder when it flowers. Suckers badly.

B. ConIFEROUS EVERGREENS. -

Norway spruce, Picea excelsa.
Loses much of its peculiar beauty when thirty or fitty years of age.
White spruce, /”. alda,

One ofthe finest ofthe spruces. A more compact grower than the last, and not
so coarse. Grows slowly.

Oriental spruce, P. ortentalis.

Especially valuable from its habit of holding its lowest limbs. Grows slowly.
Blue fir, P. pungens.

Incolor probably the finest of the conifers. Grows slowly. Varies in blueness.
Nordmann’s fir. Adies Nordmanniana,
Balsam fir, A. dalsamea.

Loses its beauty in fifteen or twenty years.

Hemlock spruce, Zsuga Canadensis.

_Young and well grown specimens are the most graceful of our evergreens. If
given some protection from the sun it does better. Should -theretore be planted
near large trees.

Arbor-vite, Thuja occidentalis.

Becomes unattractive after ten or fifteen years, especially on poor soils.
Cembran pine, Pinus Cembra.

A very fine slow growing tree. The only pine suitable for small places,
White pine, P. Strobus.
Scotch pine, P. syvestrzs.

Red pine, P. resinosa.

Valuable in groups and belts. Not sufficiently known, Usualy called ‘‘ Norway
pine.”

Scrub pine, P. Banksiana,
Asmalltree. Picturesque.

Red cedar, Juniperus Virginiana.

A. Decipuowus TREES.
CHAPTER V.

SHADE TREES IN CITY STREETS.

 

By Wn. McMILtan. *

 

HADE trees along the borders of the streets were at one time

a distinguishing feature of Americancities. But this distinc-

tion is not now as marked as it formerly was. Our example

has been largely copied in the suburban districts of nearly all

the rapidly growing cities of Europe. In many of them the street
planting has been more thorough, systematic and successful, than in
any American city, Washington excepted. In the chief business sec-
tions of every large city the conditions are fatal to street trees.
Where the population is dense, the traffic large, the atmosphere
smoky and dusty, and the sidewalk borders almost impervious to
water, trees cannot thrive or long endure. Even those which may
survive for a time, as if defying the common fate, are cut down to
give more room for the daily business of the streets. Thus even in
the most fashionable residence sections of every large city fine ave-
nues of trees are now rarely seen, except in the newer outskirts and
adjacent suburbs. But away from the larger marts of trade our early
pre-eminence in street planting is probably still maintained. Wher-
ever the conditions are favorable our streets are embowered in foliage,
and on every new street that is opened the planting usually keeps
pace with the other improvements. We have many fine examples
of this in all sections of the country, but we need not look far away
for a model. This city of Rochester is as good anexample as any.
Perhaps no city in the country has had equal advantages in soil, sub-
soil, natural drainage, tree supply, good example and public spirit.
If in summer we take a bird’s-eye-view of the town from the outlook
pavilion in Highland Park, the houses seem to be nearly hidden by

* An address given before the annual meeting of the Western New York Horticultural
Society, at Rochester, January, 1893.
(32)
Street and Shade Trees. 33

the trees. The.section where trees have given way to business is
probably smaller ‘than in any other city of its size.

In nearly all our cities, street trees are set out and cared for solely
by the owners or occupiers of the abutting property. Each man
plants, or not, according to his own taste or interest in the matter.
This iavolves much diversity, inequality and incongruity in the selec-

tion of species, in age and size, in the distance from the curb line and
from each other. Uniformity in these respects can only be obtained
for any given stretch of street where the work is done by municipal
authority. This method has been eminently successful in the leading
cities of Europe, and in Washington, where nearly every street that
has been opened and graded has been systematically planted under
the central authority of a special commission. But the general
custom in this country indicates that the American temper resents
official control of such matters. It is probable that the Washington
experiment will long remain the solitary exception on a large scale.
In any other city it would be difficult to organize a planting commision
with the same practical knowledge and singleness of purpose among
its members, the same prestige of authority behind it, and the same
respect for the law in the community. We have several examples on
a small scale incities where park commissioners have had exclusive
control of the planting on certain avenues used as park-ways. Where
these have been of extra width, offering favorable conditions of soil
and situation, the planting as a rule has been fairly successful, but
where the ordinary conditions of street usage and sidewalk space have
been encountered failure iscommon. This is due not only to the diffi-
culty of securing favorable conditions of soil, moisture, and space,
but also to the lack of active co-operation, and constant vigilance in
protecting the young trees from damage, which can only be secured
where each abutting property owner not only feels a personal interest
in his own street frontage, but entire responsibility for it. You may
think such aid would be always available, but really effective assist-
ance is rare. “any openly condemn the scheme of the planting, and
ignore the benefits they receive by it, apparently just because it cost
them nothing. The rule that requires every man to sweep his own
sidewalk is equally applicable to the care of the trees.

Few realize the constant liability to damage and destruction to which
34 The Rural Library.

young street trees are exposed. Some idea of it may be gained by
inspecting the trees on any given street, and noting how few show no
sign of stunted growth, scarred trunk, mutilated top, or blemish of
some kind. The most common damage is the gnawing of the bark by
horses, or of the branches if within reach, but up to a certain age
mischievous boys are far more destructive. If the sapling gets safely
out of its swaddling clothes it is next attacked at the roots by trenches
for sewers, gas pipes, water pipes, and electric cables, or by changes
of line or grade in laying curbstones or flagging. In later years the
largest limbs will be cut off to open a view, or the top mutilated by
telegraph line-men and their wires. Again, under ordinary conditions
the trees suffer constantly from lack of moisture, because the pavement
or the beaten ground sheds most of the rainfall; from lack of food,
because the roots cannot penetrate the hardened subsoil ; from poison
by gas, because the small service pipes soon become rusted through ;
and from want of air, because the soot and dust of the city stops up
the pores of the leaves. The unhealthy condition resulting from
these and other causes invites grubs and borers, bugs and caterpil-
lars, scale, spider and fungus, allin great profusion. In the streets
these insect pests are safe froin their natural enemies—the birds—
and from the poisonous spray of the gardener’s syringe.

This brings up the important questions: What kinds of trees are
best suited to withstand these untoward conditions? What methods
of treatment are most likely to protect them from injury and disease,
and secure healthy growth and long life? Of course no list can be
equally suitable to all localities, and no rules equally applicable every-
where, or even generally acceptable among experts. But the good
and the bad points of certain standard kinds may be broadly noted,
and good average conditions of cultivation indicated. The trees
most commonly used are probably the best under average conditions.
Their presence in every town and their general appearance indicate
special adaptability. ‘*Nothing succeeds like success,’’ and the
points contributing most to this success are, ease of propagation,
cheapness of nursery culture, quickness of early growth, endurance
under careless transplanting, prominence of good looks and absence
of bad habits, the ability to pick up a living on a scanty diet, and
patience under abuse of every sort.
Street and Shade Trees. 35

The silver maple has apparently fulfilled these requirements, allin
all, more generally than any other tree, for it is the one most gener-
ally planted. If in rich soil with sufficient moisture, its growth is too
rank for strength ; it does not hold its head erect, and its long, slen-
der branches do not bear well the strain of high winds,

The white elm is next in popular favor. In many of its traits it is
far superior to the white maple. Its tall trunk, lofty head, wide
sweep of the branches and pendent spray make it an ideal street tree
—beautiful to the eye, and giving a generous proportion of light in its
shadow. Wherever the subsoil is loamy or porous its fibrous roots
extend deeply as well as widely, insuring a thrifty growth. It grows
well in stiff clay, if moist enough, but under a sidewalk that is rarely
the case. Dry clay is as unfavorable to any root growth as the most
sterile hardpan.

The European elms also do wellasstreet trees. The broader leaved
species, known as the Scotch elm, has usually a higher and broader
head than the English elm, but neither has the graceful form nor the
open shade of the American tree.

The sugar maple is largely planted in the cities of the north-eastern
states. It is better suited to dry situations than the elms or any
other maple, and its habit is always erect and compact. Its autumn
color is a special feature.

The Norway maple has the same qualities in about equal degree.
Its head is lower and broader, its early growth morerapid, but in our
climate it is not so durable.

The sycamore maple also grows rapidly, and becomes a large tree
of sturdy habit in favorable situations. But it will not thrive without
ample moisture in hot weather.

Our red maple is entirely unfit for street planting. Theash-leaved
maple does better; but at good street trees of this sort are rare except in
the prairie states, where under the name of box elder it is the best
and most common street tree. In deep soil its growth while young is
remarkably rapid.

In many of our northern towns the European horse-chestnut rivals
the elms andthe maples. Whenin full bloom itis gorgeous, but when
the fruit is ripe it is especially liable to damage by boys threshing
down the nuts. Its foliage is remarkably fine in the early part of the

 
36 The Kural Library.

season, but later it is often much preyed upon by caterpillars. Ina
dry autunin it blisters readily and is sometimes shed prematurely.
Usually its shade is too deep for any greensward, and its formal outline
is rarely relieved by any grace of form. The Ohio buckeye is not
much used compared with the foreign species, probably because its
flowers are not so showy, but its average habit is as good and its
foliage is better.

Both the European and the American lindens have been extensively
planted, especially the former, though inferior in every respect except
the fragrance of its flowers. Both do well where the soil is deep and
moist and the atmosphere clear. But usually the growth looks stunted
and the foliage is more ravaged by caterpillars than any other tree.

The white ash and the European ash are occasionally seen in good
condition, but all the other species of ash are fit only for swamps.
Their fibrous roots lie too near the surface, and require too much
breadth of space.

The beech has similar faults, with the additional defects that its
early growth is slow and it requires extra carein transplanting. The
European beech is equally disappointing while young, but in good
soil its roots do not spread so near to the surface, and good street
trees of this species are sometimes seen. But like the purple-leaved
and the weeping forms, it is better suited to private grounds.

Walnut, butternut, chestnut and every species of hickory are all
handsome trees of good size, but rarely seen in any street except in
village roadsides. All require to be transplanted while so young and
small that their protection until well established is very difficult.
Even if success be finally attained, they will be seriously damaged
every fall when they come into bearing, and so their doom is fixed.

Oaks require the same early transplanting and extra care for along
time. But in any city where they can be securely protected until of
good size, they endure the ordinary street conditions as well as elms
or maples. Once well established a black, red, or scarlet oak will
grow as fast as the average of other street trees. The habit is always
good, pruning or thinning of the branches is rarely necessary, andthe
glossy foliage is a special attraction all through the season, The
European oaks and our white oak make good street trees if well
guarded during their tender years, but their growth is rather slower.
Street and Shade Trees. 37

In certain sections of every town the poplars are still the popular
trees. All are easily propagated, grow very fast, sell very cheap,
endure the most careless transplanting, and thrive in spite of neglect
or abuse. But for ordinary streets they are likely to become too
large and their life is short. The Lombardy poplar, though a foreign
tree and not quite suited to our climate, is the most commonly planted.
Its trim, erect habit adapts it to narrow ztreets, and if need be it bears
well the most savage lopping of its branches. Where’ they have
ample room to grow to full size, abele or silver-leaved poplar, the
balsam and the cottonwood look well, and their smooth, glossy foliage
is a special attraction.

But for foliage effect the finest trees_are the tulip_and the plane,
In their native haunts no other deciduous tree equals them in size or
dignity. Fine examples of each are occasionally seen in our streets,
but general experience seems to condemn them. The soft roots of
the tulip tree make it impatient of careless transplanting unless very
young, and protection from severe frosts is necessary in clay soils
until the roots get below the frost line. But once well established in
any favorable soil and subsoil, it becomes a noble street. tree, well
worth any extra care bestowed upon it. ‘

The plane tree is as easily transplanted as any maple, and if in
good soil its growth for many years is as rapid as that of any poplar
or willow. But mature trees are so subject to serious fungous blight,
that a healthy clean-branched tree israrely seen. Strangely enough,
it thrives well in European cities, withstanding the effects of smoke
better than any other tree. In spite of these defects, both tulip and
plane deserve persistent trial and experiment.

Fifty years ago, during the silk-worm craze, the Chinese ailanthus
was extensively planted in the eastern cities. Its rank growth, sub-
tropical aspect, exemption from insects, and its fresh foliage in spite
of prolonged heat or drouth, made it very popular- Then camea
strange reaction, so strong that the tree is virtually tabooed, all ap-
parently because the flowers have an unpleasant odor. This odor
has not a wide range, and it cannot be offensive to many people.
Planted in ornamental grounds or near cultivated fields, the tree
multiplies so fast, both by seeding and by suckering, that it is oftena
veritable nuisance. But no tree has withstood so persistently the
38 The Rural Library.

onslaught of all the destructive influences of a crowded street.
Where the subsoil is porous its roots penetrate to an extraordinary
depth, and thus find food enough under the closest pavements, and
moisture enough during the longest drouths. There is a place for
the ailanthus in every large city, and that (if you give it no other ) is
the place where no other tree will thrive.

Here and there we occasionally see a frontage or even a whole
block planted with trees wholly unsuited to a stony pavement.
Among these I venture to class white birch, magnolia, paulownia,
yellow locust, honey locust, sweet gum, sour gum, weeping beech or
willow, mulberry, cherry and all kinds of pines, spruces, and such like.
Some people are charmed with the novelty of the experiment, some
are struck by the audacity of the innovation, and some are shocked by
the foolishness of the freak. Comment on each exampleis as various
as the extremes of individual taste. <‘* Did you see yonder avenue of
white birch ? What a beautiful border for a public street! Such a
happy thought had a touch of inspiration!” ‘Ah, yes! whata fancy
frill for a dirty pavement! How can you bear to see the ‘Lady of
the Woods’ degraded’ to such ignoble use? Her white robe all
frayed and soiled! Her ‘fragrant hair’ stained with soot and smell-
ing of the gutter! Away with such defilement of angelic purity!"
Andsothetalkgoeson. Youcannot please everybody. Follow your
own bent.

So much has been said on so many kinds of trees that little space
is left for comment on their general culture and care. This must be
condensed into a few words on the importance of planting only young
trees of nursery growth, of providing ample supply of good soil, of
allowing sufficient space for the full growth of root and branch, of
watering thoroughly for years, and of guarding from damage at all
times. Americans despise ‘‘the day of small things.”’ This nat-
ional foible is always prominent in the selection of trees for street
for street planting, The general practice is to procure the largest
trees that can be obtained, and conveniently handled. If nursery-
men cannot or will not furnish them of suitable size, they are pro-
cured from the neighboring woods if possible. It is surprising and
mortifying to every experienced grower of trees to see each spring
the numerous wagons loads which countrymen bring in from swamps
Street and Shade Trees. 39

and thickets aud expose for sale in our streets day after day, with
little or no protection from sun and wind. They are usually much
larger than the most overgrown nursery stock, and the younger sap-
lings twice or thrice the height becoming to their age, but they are
bought in preference to the nurserymen’s ‘‘small fry.” The only
roots are a few stout prongs, and they are set out in the smallest
holes that will admit them, with the tree tops left unpruned or en-
tirely chopped off. They remain standing like bean poles for one or
more years! Then they are pulled out and other bean poles stuck
iu their places. It is said ‘* experience teaches fools,” but on this
subject they need many -years of schooling, else the class always
under instruction would not be so large.

Nurserymen preach against this practice incessantly. But the
fools think they see through their selfish tricks, and are too wise to
be gulled so easily. But they cannot see the potent facts that trees
grown in nurseries have needful qualities of root, stem and branch
entirely lacking in the spindling saplings that have struggled for life
and light in a shady thicket. The nursery plant is forced into vigor-
ous growth from the start by providing rich soil, ample space, fre-
quent cultivation to induce fibrous roots near the stem, and special
training of the plant to an ideal standard of strength and symmetry.
When sold it can be dug up with most of its roots uncut, and the
small wounds are easily healed. Thus the risk of death by trans-
planting is very slight, and with careful work there need not be much
check to the tree, but yet the younger the better. Of course after
being planted, the smaller the tree the greater the risk of serious dam-
age by accidents that would be trifling to one of twice or thrice the
size. This argument is the clincher in all discussions on this point.
For this reason elms, maples, horse chestnuts, poplars and lindens
are so commonly preferred, as they can be successfully transplanted
of a much larger size than tulip trees, oaks, or any of the nut bear-
ing trees. Yet the rule holds good even in street planting, that what-
ever kinds of trees be selected, the youngest that can be protected
with a reasonable chance of safety ought to be preferred.

In street planting, sufficient account is rarely taken of the fact that
if no grade has been established the position may be too high or too
low or too near the future curb line. Or if the street be graded, of
40 The Rural Library.

the fact that soil and subsoil may have been removed to such an
extent that the hole has to be dug in hardpan or some substratum
equally sterile. In such case the quantity of poor ground that must
be dug out and of good soil substituted to secure something like nat-
ural conditions is seldom fully appreciated. Another fact likely to
be overlooked is that an ordinary sidewalk sheds water like a duck's
back, and special provision must be made to supply sufficient mois-
ture during each season of vegetation for years. At first mulching is
of great advantage to this end. But in dry weather an occasional
copious watering should be given systematically until the tree is fully
established, and in certain situations this must be continued to some
degree perpetually. In all such operations the best rule is, never
sprinkle, always soak. Occasional saturation to the extremities of all
the roots is better than frequent sprinkling. Another common error
is planting too near the curb line and too close together in the row.
Any young tree within four feet of the curb is ten times more likely
to be gnawed by horses than one twice as far back. The roots also
should be considered, and given a fair chance to spread on all sides.
Ample distance apart contributes not only to the health and symme-
try of the tree, but also allows a pleasant play of sunshine and breeze
to the people on the street. Close planting may look best for a few
years, but the spread of the trees at maturity should always be pro-
vided for. The future cutting out of each alternate tree is a lovely
illusion fondly embraced, but never realized; but in reality a sad
delusion because it is rarely done, and never done soon enough. It
may be a deeply inspired full-blown resolve, but it has no substance.
It is only a soap-bubble that floats before you for a moment, and in-
stantly melts out of sight. Some protective guard against ill-bred
horses, worse-bred drivers, careless workmen on the street or adja-
cent lots, and the daily run of miscellaneous accidents, is necessary
for years. Nothing yet invented is conveniently applicable to small
trees or always effective. A temporary railing on the curb line, though
unsightly, is more useful than a casing for each tree. When the
trunk becomes thick enough, a strip of fine galvanized wire netting
wrapped loosely around it as far up as a horse can reach is cheap,
serviceable, neat, unobtrusive, and can readily be adjusted to the
growth of the tree from year to year. The damage done to street
Street and Shade Trees. 41

trees by horses and by careless usage of workmen about them is
incalculable. Prosecution is useless, because an adequate penalty
that would deter others is never imposed.

It is needless to speak to experienced fruit-growers of the best pre-
ventives or remedies for insect pests of any kind, or for any of the
various kinds of fungus. That work is as familiar to you as the
alphabet. But systematic and effective treatment of street trees for
any plague that may attack them is exceedingly rare and difficult.
Some caterpillars are easily conquered if the eggs or the chrysalis be
attacked in time, but this is usually prevented by stoical indifference
at this dormant stage. Disease caused by smoke and dust is incur-
able. No species of tree is proof against these if their presence be
nearly constant in large quantities. Finally, the gist of the whole
matter may be summed up in the obtrusive form of sententious
advice. Select the kinds of trees that experience commends to you
as most likely to satisfy your own taste, and to suit the conditions of
soil and situation in your street. Select young trees only, of thrifty
habit and good form. Furnish good soil in ample quantity at what-
ever cost or trouble. Give ample room for full growth on every side.
Handle and transplant with proper care and skill. Mulch and water
effectively until the trees be fully established. Guard from damage
by any device that will serve your purpose. Fight to the death every
pest and plague as scon as it appears. Give constant watchfulness
to the tree’s welfare while you live, and impose the same duty by
your last testament upon the successors to your trust when you die.
‘Eternal vigilance is the price’’ of every street tree.
+

RAE HEHE HE HE HH He HE YH HEHE DHE He HEHE He HEME HEE AY

* The attention of Planters, Land- *
* | RI ‘| 'S scape Architects, etc., is directed to *
* our very large and complete assort- *
* ment of thrifty nursery-grown trees 4
for the above purposes. These are

* for Street far superior to trees taken from the x
* * woods, being provided with an abun- *
* and Shade. * dance of fibrous roots, which in- *
* * sure successful transplanting. We 4
* ee oes near offer superb trees of the following: :
* :
* Birch, Cut-leaved Weeping, 6 to 8 feet. $
* Catalpa speciosa, 6 to 8 feet. ‘
* Elm, American, 8 to ro feet. ¥
% *« Scotch, in variety, 8 to 10 feet. 4
* Horse Chestnut, White-flowering, 5 to 6 feet. *
x Maple, European Sycamore, 8 to 10 feet. *
* «Norway, 8 to 10 feet. RY
* «Silver, 8 to 10 feet. &
* se Wier’s Cut-leaved, 8 to 10 feet. *
* Oak, Burr, 6 to 8 feet. Z
* Poplar, Balsam, 8 to Io feet. Y
* “6 Carolina, 8 to 10 feet. :
* «« Lombardy, 8 to feet.
* Willow, Golden, 6 to 8 feet. %
* In addition to the above, we culti- $A HEHE HE TE HE HE EL
* vate and have for sale the most com- ¥ :
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4 furnished. 53d Year. ¥
DEIN Se IE IE SE I HE HIE IE IE HIS Se ee se se se ge He E
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History of the Chrysanthemum; Classification
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American History. Propagation. Genoral Culturo,
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1V.—CUTTAGE. Propagation by Cuttings. %
V.—GRAFTAGE.—Including Grafting, Budding, Inarching, etc. 8 dee
VI.~Nursery .List.—This is the great featnre of the book, It is an alphabetical” list
of ali kinds of plants; with a short'statement telling which of the operations described in
the first five chapters are employed-in propagating them. ‘Over 2,000 entries are made in
_the list? The following entries will givé an idea of the method ; :

Acer (MAPLE). ‘Sapindacea. Stocks ‘are grown from stratified- seeds, which ‘should :
be sown_an inch o1 two deep; or some species, as A, dqsycarpum, come readily if seeds
are sown as soon a8 ripe. Some cultural varieties are layered, but better plauts are‘ ob--
tained by grafting. Varieties of native species are worked upon common or native stocks.
The Japanese sorts ‘are winter-worked upon imported A. polymorphum stocks, either by
whip or veneer grafting. Maples can also be budded in summer, and they graw readily

’ from cuttings of both ripe and soft wood.

Phyllocactus, Phyllocereus, Disocactus (Lear Cactus). Cactee. Fresh. seeds
grow readily. Sow in rather sandy soil which is well drained, and apply water as for com-
mon seeds. When the: seedlings appear, remove to a light position. Cuttings from
mature, shoots, three to six inches in length, root readily in sharp sand. - Give a-tem-
‘perature of ahout 60°, and apply only sufficient water to keep from flagging. Ifthe cut-—
tings are very juicy they may be laid on os sand for several days before planting.

. VILL—PoLLINATION. ~ a 2
Price, in Liprary Style, cloth, calle margins, $f “Pocket Style, paper, narrow mar-

_ Ps “50 © cents, Bene RS ga
¥ ¥ = *

 
ENE DE NDE Se SI Sh oe nen

whe Rural Livcary,

   
  
 
 
   
   
 
   
   
 
  

toe

A 7BHE Rural ° Library i a a series. 3 |
| of monthly issues of popu- °
lar pamphlets on scientific, ¢'
and practical topics: in agri-/ i
culture and horticulture,
Each is intended to. be. 42%
complete manual of the sub#
ject treated. ~ They are written or edited by
men and women whose broad knowledge of
the specialties on. which they write is undis#™
puted. The range of subjects is well illustrated”
by the titles of the numbers already issued” or "
soon to. appear. Among these are: “Straw-
berries: What, How and Wherefore ;” “Tools: 4
‘Styles, Types and Methods for use in Horti-
culture;” “Cross-breeding and Hybridizing of, 4
Plants;’ * Chemicals and Clover;” “The Business. i
+
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Hen;” “The Tuberous Begonia;” “Rats and
Other Vermin;” “Canning and Preserving |
Fruits and Vegetables ;”: “‘ The New Celery Cul-
fire. © Ensilage and the Silo;” ‘‘ Accidents and.
Emergencies,” and “ Milk: “Making and Market-~ €
ing.” Others to come will, in turn, enter. upon *
all departments of rural activity wherein more #
extended information is tequired' than the 4
newspaper article can furnish, or wherein ex~ ¥
*

4

isting books fail to condense properly. for’ handy”
use the Particular information wanted. .

THE: RURAL PUBLISHING Conbane
aoe Tings Building, New York.

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