: oe uta _oEsTERSHRe TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION COMMITTEE MANUAL Ga RDENING ae #5 FO ‘ f - ae “saves UDALE, FRHS a HoRTICULTURAL INSTRUCTOR | FOR WORCESTERSHIRE, 2 WITH AN. IntRopuCTION Be “Rr. Hon. Viscount COBHAM ; ONE SHILLING NETT Cornell Wniversity Litray THE GIFT OF eo University Library SB 453.U18 Gardening for all.A handboo MANU GARDENING FoR ALL. Oe! A HANDBOOK ON GROWING VEGETABLES AND FRUIT, and the PREVENTION & DESTRUCTION or INSECT PESTS of the Garden, and Selections of WINDOW PLANTS & HARDY FLOWERS, for the use of Amateurs, Cottagers and Allotment Holders, BY JAMES UDALE, F.R.HSS, and Chief Horticultural Instructor for Worcestershire, and Past Lecturer in Surrex and Gloucestershire ; Author of ‘Chrysanthemums, their History and Cultivation.” INTRODUCTION by Rt. Hon. VISCOUNT COBHAM. PRICE ONE SHILLING. 1897. Stourbridge: Marx & Moopy, ‘‘County Express OFFICEs,” PQondon ; SiMPKINs, THE RIGHT HONOURABLE Biscount Cobham, (President of the Worcestershire Union of Workmen's Clubs, which has charge of the Gardening Instruction—under the County Council—in that County, to whom the work is largely indebted for wise direction and steady support), THIS BOOK Is WITH KIND PERMISSION RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. INTRODUCTION. readily consented to write a few introductory words to this little volume, because I am convinced that the subject of it is one of increasing importance, and I have good reasons for knowing that the author is specially qualified to deal with it. As long ago as 1891, the Worcestershire County Council delegated to the Worcestershire Union of Workmen’s Clubs and Institutes, of which I have the honour to be President, the task of administering the portion of the Technical Education Grant set apart for instruction in horticulture. Mr. Udale was appointed Instructor, and ever since, his whole time has been devoted to giving lectures upon horticulture, visiting orchards, market, allotment, cottage, and other gardens, and giving practical advice to the cultivators on the spot. His experience, therefore, has been exceptionally large, and few men I believe are better qualified to give wise counsel to small gardeners and fruit growers, and to prove to them what a field of profit and of pleasure is open to them, if in addition to the industry and shrewdness which they often possess they bring to the management of their land a wider knowledge of scientific principles and of the result of other men’s experience. It is discouraging to note the frequent instances of slovenly or ignorant cultivation of orchards and of cottage and allotment gardens. The occupiers have forgotten the truth that in these days not even a small plot of ground can be made to pay without skilful management. The evil consequences of this mistake extend beyond themselves, for I am convinced that the future of the allotment system in the country, which has been so largely developed of late years, mainly depends upon the practical recognition of this truth by allotment holders generally. On the other hand, there are many men, who, having proved their ability to manage small pieces of land with intelligence and profit are entitled to look forward to similar. success on larger holdings, and step by step to better their position and prospects in life. The Allotments and Small Holdings Acts were intended to promote such results, and it is much to be hoped that the ranks of the farm tenants of this country, which have been thinned by the disasters of recent years, may by their means be supplied with valuable recruits. I am sure this little work will, if properly studied and applied, prove a most useful auxiliary towards the promotion of this most beneficial object. The book, however, is addressed to all classes of Gardeners, to the managers of many acred domains, as well as to the owners of window boxes, and attention to its precepts will increase not only the returns, but the satisfaction derived from their pursuit. Horticulture is a delight to most right-minded persons, including many who are untrained and unscientific; but it cannot be doubted that the more knowledge there is of the mysteries and phenomena of life and growth, the more grasp of the principles upon which all progress and skilled experiment must be founded, the truer and higher will be the pleasure. Such then is the scope and aim of this book. They are such as must commend it to all lovers of horticulture, and to all who wish to see a fresh source of profit and pleasure opened out to thousands who at present enjoy but too little of either. COBHAM. Z INS AZ PREFACE. T is not as possessing any right or power to criticise at thoroughly the teaching of this book that I have acceded to its author's request that I should write a short preface to it. He is a teacher who has passed through all grades of his profession, and is an accomplished master in the great science of gardening; while I, though happy in having often been among his pupils, am still in the lower classes of the school. But, both personally and officially, I have had many opportunities to estimate the value of the work done in Worcestershire since 1891 under the Gardening Instruction Scheme which the County Council sustain. Of this scheme Mr. Udale is the Chief Instructor, and his direction of it has been wise, sound, and abounding with good results. It is, on every ground, a matter of deep satisfaction that there is a general increase in gardening knowledge and gardening skill. There is in Horticulture a charm which enlarges as its students advance in the understanding and practice of it. It brings delight to the beginner, and a yet deeper satisfaction to the veteran. There is delight in the first crop from one’s own sowing, in the first fruit from trees of one’s own grafting, in the maiden blooms from the rose which, with anxiety, labour, and some loss of blood, one first budded. But better still the delight of later years, when the man, a learner still, is also at times a teacher, when the lessons of mistakes have been acquired, and when some parts of God's varied laws of growth are better understood. Better still, because the pleasure is more intelligent and more enduring. It is as a believer in Horticulture for profit and for pleasure that I hope greatly to find that Mr. Udale’s book may have that wide circulation which will give it the large power of usefulness which I am sure that it possesses. F. R. LAWSON. Clent Vicarage, CONTENTS, CHAPTER I. PAGE. Soi_s: Their nature and improve- ments ie @ » Their chemical nature 10 ,, Their mechanical nature .. 11 The water-holding power of soils 11 Draining . ay FS Improvement of Clay soil e938 i Marly soil +. 13 $i Chalky soil .. 13 i Sandy soil an | E3 “i Gravelly soil .. 13 7 Peaty soil ae CHAPTER II. Manures and their application 15 Carbon and Nitrogen eee ES Inorganic elements of plants .. 16 Farmyard manure .. 17 Value of fowl, sheep, horse, and cow manure : 7 Manurial value of waste products 18 Liquid manure ot iGo 8 Earth Closet manure 19 Special manures for special crops 20-22 CHAPTER III. Preparation of the soil we 25 Advantages of deep cultivation 25 Wrong method of digging wn 26. Right method of digging si (26 Bastard-trenching .. 27 Breaking down, or pulverising the soil .. va cn 28. CHAPTER IV. Seeds and their germination .. 30 How the embryo in the seed is nourished s ST The essential conditions of germination we se 32 Depth for sowing seeds 33 Advantages and disadvantages of light and heavy soils ae: 33 Thinning crops a 1. 34 CHAPTER V. (Root Crop). PAGE. The cultivation of vegetables 35 List of varieties of various root crops 35 Beet-root 36 Carrots : 37 Jerusalem Artichoke 39 Onions 39 Parsnips .. 41 CHAPTER VI. (Root Crorps—continued). Potatoes .. 43 Radishes .. 46 Salsify 47 Scorzonera 47 Turnips 47 CHAPTER VII. (GREEN Crops). Globe Artichoke 51 Asparagus 52 1, Sowing seed of » 53 » Planting 53 , Renovating exhausted bed ot 54 Beans, French or Dwarf 56 » Runner 57 », Broad 58 List of varieties of various Green| Crops 59-60 CHAPTER VIII. (GREEN CRops—continued). Borecole or Kale 61 Brussels Sprouts 62 Broccoli .. 63 Cabbage .. 65 » Red 66 1 Savoy 66 Cauliflower 67 CHAPTER IX. PACE. (GREEN Crops—continued). Celery .. de at Endive .. we i 72 Leeks Xe ee aus 93 Lettuce .. as 94 Pea - a si 5 Rhubarb . as ja 97 Seakale .. ni ie. 98 Spinach .. a .. 80 CHAPTER X. (MISCELLANEOUS). Cucumber ae sy 381 Vegetable Marrow .. ton 183 Tomato .. sf -. 83 Mushroom on -. 86 Parsley, Mint HErss--Sage, Pennyroyal, Thyme, Sweet Marjoram, Sweet Basil, Borage, Bugloss, Chervil, Clary, Coriander, Summer Savory, Purslam, Balm, Tarragon, Chamomile 88-go CHAPTER XI. (SMALL Fruits). Introduction .. gt Currants, Red and White +. 93 te Black ss ae 95 Gooseberries a ons 107 Raspberries a +. 99 Strawberries 101 List of the best varieties of small fruits for general purposes .. 103 CHAPTER XII. (LarGE Fruits). Apples... 3 +. 105 Apricot .. ae ace TLS Cherry .. 7 +. 113 Peach .. =f 23. ta4 Pear ne a & ETS Plum ve 120 Selection of varieties of large fruits 12 3 CHAPTER XIII. InsEct PEsts: THEIR PREVENTION AND DESTRUCTION. Green Fly or Rose Aphis + 124 Red Spider, Mildew, Tomato Disease 6ai B25 Thrip, and Black Currant Mite .. 126 PAGE. Gooseberry and Currant Sawfly.. 126 Magpie Moth, and Slugworm 127 Winter Moth -. 128 Apple Blossom Weevil, and American Blight 129 Mussel Scale, and Raspberry Maggot and Weevil 129-130 Large White Butterfly, and Cabbage Moth .. 130 Turnip Moth, and Daddy- long- legs 131 Asparagus Beetle, and Pea and Bean Weevil .. 131-132 Turnip Flea, and Turnip Fly .. 132 Celery Fly, Beet Fly, and Cabbage Fly 132-133 Turnip- gall Weevil, ‘and papiy or Clubbing Dy 133 Wireworm, and Onion Fly +. 134 Carrot Fly ns -. 134 CHAPTER XIV. Drying Fruits, Vegetables, and Herbs aes .. 136 CHAPTER XV. (WinpDow P ants). List of Flowering Plants suitable for windows es co TAS Ferns, Palms ie ++ 146 Useful Hints -» 146 Soils for Flowering Plants, etc. 147 Liquid Manure Me +. 147 CHAPTER XVI. (FLowER CULTURE.) Flowers to grow for Market «» 148 List of Hardy Perennials 148-149 Perennials for Shady Borders .. 150 Flowers for Smoky Districts .. 150 CHAPTER XVII. (FLOWER CULTURE). List of Hardy Annuals 151-153 Hardy Biennials Be +. 154 ILLUSTRATIONS. Diagrams showing how to commence Bastard-trenching ‘a Rotation of Cropping Barrots, illustrating advantages of Thinning Onions, ia i ai Properly thinned turnips A ms Diagram showing how to crop and double-crop or intercrop a garden or allotment ee Diagram showing Asparagus beds and Panik: trees Plan for planting and cropping a garden with Fruit trees aad Vegetables a Bed of Mushrooms Red Currant branch, summer-pruned Red Currant branch showing where to prune es Branch of Black Currant showing method of pruning .. Part of branch of Gooseberry showing pruning to spurs and shortening of shoots or as Illustration of pruning Raspberries Right method of planting a tree .. Wrong a i Branch of Apple tree showing re to Bvane Pruning for fruit. and pruning for wood Apples, showing advantages of thinning Manner of opening a trench around a tree .. o- Method of getting under the ball of a tree Roots of tree exposed bs Right method of root-pruning .. Right and wrong ways of trimming end of roots os a4 Wrong method of root-pruning .. Py Pruning to a spur, and a natural fruit spur .. Fruit of plums thinned and unthinned American Evaporator, No. 2 CorrecTions.—Instead of trenches U shaped, as shown on page 12, they should be as here figured, showing drain pipe. Scale finch=1 foot. 27 23 34 41 48 49 55 69 87 94 95 96 - 98-99 100 107 108 109 IIo LY 116 117 118 11g IIg 120 I2r 122 137 Apple, Early White Transparent, should appear in the list given for Culinary or Dessert, instead of in that for Culinary only. CHAPTER 1, SOILS: Their nature and improvement. Never before has there been such a demand for knowledge and information about gardening, and never has there been such a supply produced through the Press as at the present time. As the standard of intelligence rises, so also grow the knowledge and appreciation of the advantages of a better cultivation of the soil, to the increase of wealth, pleasure, and profit. Occupiers of gardens are no longer content with being told what to do, how to do it and when to do it, but they wish to know why they ought to do certain things. This is as it ought to be. To understand why we do a thing is to take a most important step toward ensuring success for that operation; and it is as true of gardening as of any other work. The writer, bearing the above in mind, and being desirous of supplying information in a clear form and sufficiently plain ‘“‘to be wunderstanded of the people,” introduces into this cheap hand-book practical facts that he hopes will be of every-day use to all gardeners. In order to produce the best result from the soil we cultivate, it is necessary not only to dig and manure that soil, but also to know something about its nature. Without such knowledge it will be an easy matter to waste both time and money in digging and manuring; by digging at the wrong time or in the wrong manner, and by applying the wrong kind of manure. Soils vary in their nature (1) chemically and (2) mechanically. Io GARDENING FOR ALL. (1) The chemical effects of the soil depend mainly upon certain soluble minerals contained therein, especially the Chloride of Sodium (common Salt) and Carbonate of Lime. Soda and Lime attract certain plants to which they are necessary, but they are obnoxious to others which only find refuge in soils free from them. Silica on land seems to be mainly neutral chemically. Potash is indispensable to plants, but it does not appear to exercise any appreciable influence in their geographical distribution. Magnesia and Iron enter into the composition, in a small degree, of most plants, though neither appear to exert any special influence in their geographical distribution. Nitrogen and Phosphorus are absolutely essential to vegetable life, and increase the vigour of plants grown on all soils. As a knowledge of soils and their chemical nature is of great value to the cultivator, I here give a list of soils, with their chemical analyses, which will serve as a guide to those possessing similar soil :— Certain marls contain from 3°4 to 25°38 per cent. of Alumina and Iron Oxide. 7°69 to 66°67 "i Carbonate of Lime. 1°82 to 2°91 da Phosphoric Acid. 068 to 510 ii Carbonate of Magnesia. Some clays contain from 48:99 to 73°82 per cent. of Silica 1o°3 to 32°11 3 Alumina. O12 to 262 Se Lime. Ol td 9°33 es Potash. o4I to 3:0 e Magnesia. 0°44 to 2.40 fs Soda. 032 to 4:17 si Iron Protoxide. There are limestones which contain from 44°6 to 98'4o per cent. of Carbonate of Lime. 0°08 to 40-2 ” ” Magnesia. IIO to 51°4 vs Silica. o42to 82 i Tron and Alumina. Different sandstones contain from 49°4 to 98:00 per cent. of Silica. o25to 32 i Alumina. 0°35 to 26°5 i‘ Carbonate of Lime. 0°75 to 16°1 w Magnesia. 0725 to 3°51 ‘ Iron Protoxide. GARDENING FoR ALL. II And some granites contain from 44°50 to 73°70 per cent. of Silica. 12°27 to 17°35 Ps Alumina. 0750 to 984 re Lime. 021 to 3°99 a Magnesia. 2°02 to 7°24 a Potash. 264 to 4°21 a Soda. It will thus readily be understood how a mixed soil is so fertile, possessing, as it does, a per centage of all the chemical matter that goes to build up a plant. A perfect soil for general cultural purposes would consist of about—- 60 per cent. (by weight) of Sand. 25 ” 7 Clay. Te oo» ” Humus. Te on i Lime. This soil would be warm, retentive of moisture, but not too retentive, contain sufficient lime and organic matter, and generally be most conducive to a healthy growth of vegetation. (2) The mechanical nature of soils. Soils generally may be formed into eight classes, viz :— Pure Clay (Pipe Clay). Strongest Clay Soil (Tile Clay), 5—15 per cent. Sand. Clay Loam, I15—30 i ” Loamy Soil, 30—60 ‘a " Sandy Soil, 60—g0 i ” The above five are supposed to contain less than 5 per cent. of lime. Marly Soil, containing 5—20 per cent. of Lime. Calcareous Soil, containing more than 20 per cent. of Lime, Peaty Soil, containing 2o—7o0 per cent. organic matter. The three latter may be either clayey, loamy, or sandy. The water-holding power of soils is said to be—~ Clay Soil, 40 per cent. of Water. Loam, 51 ' ” Heavy Clay 61 3 " Fine Carbonate of Lime, 85 ” ” 12 GARDENING FoR ALL. IMPROVEMENT OF THE SOIL. DRAINING. All soils that are wet through being surcharged with water will be cold in proportion, and uncongenial to the healthy development of crops of fruit, vegetables, or flowers usually cultivated. Such land must be drained if success is to be achieved. The method of draining will depend upon individual circumstances, but there can be no doubt that drainage by means of properly laid drain pipes is generally the best and most durable. A good outfall is essential to success in a system of perfect drainage, but as we cannot always command such an outfall, we must do the best we can with what we have. If the outfall will permit, drain pipes should be laid thirty inches deep at the bottom of U shaped trenches ; these should be in parallel lines at distances of eighteen, twenty-four, or thirty feet apart, and running in the direction of the outfall or iowest part of the ground, where they should join a larger drain laid at an obtuse angle to the general drains, and having a good fall to the outlet. If the above method is too expensive, the soil may be drained in a more primitive and less expensive manner. At distances of six, eight, or ten yards apart, a number of trenches are excavated. Each trench should be dug out thirty inches in depth and at least two feet wide. Throw out the top soil on one side the trench, and the soil from the bottom on the other side; because, when the soil is again returned to the trench, we wish to keep the top soil at the top, being the best. In the bottom of these deep trenches we may place several inches of loose stones, clinkers, cinders, or refuse sticks or prunings. In the absence of any of these we may use the old stalks of cabbages, broccoli, greens, cauliflowers, &c., and a few weeds or leaves should be spread evenly over them. We ought then to shovel back the soil into the trench, first returning that which was dug from the bottom of the trench, then place a dressing of manure thereon and mix a ol GARDENING FoR ALL. 13 it with the soil; then return the top soil, which was first dug out, and mix a little manure with this also. The ground so treated will now be higher, warmer, and richer than the ground between the trenches; but the latter will also be improved, because the trenches will drain the land on either side. Upon the broad ridges may be sown, in due time, rows of peas and beans; and these may be followed, with advantage, by cauliflowers, cabbages, turnips, carrots, &c. Whatever kind of crop is chosen to occupy those positions, it will be found to be above the general average in quantity and quality. OTHER METHODS OF IMPROVEMENT. Heavy clay soil may be improved by burning or charring ; but we must remember that the process of burning not only changes the mechanical nature of the soil, but also destroys the nitrogen it contains. The nitrogen must, therefore, be replaced after charring or burning by the application of manure. Charring, or burning, is also destructive of insect pests, which is a decided advantage. A thick dressing of decayed leaves or other refuse of the garden, road scrapings, lime, the finest siftings of coal ashes, will each and all materially improve such soil. Clay loam may be treated as the foregoing, especially in regard to the application of the different kinds of materials mentioned. Marly soils will be improved chemically and mechanically by the liberal addition of decayed leaves and weeds, road scrapings, &c. Calcareous soil (chalk or limestone) requires plentiful supplies of manure, and decayed vegetable matter generally ; and an eye should be kept to the necessity of draining. Sandy and gravelly soils will be much improved by a judicious and periodical dressing with lime or marl, and a little burnt clay when available; also with good manurings, and liberal dressings with decayed leaves and weeds. 14 GARDENING FOR ALL. Peaty soils should be liberally dressed with lime, to correct their acidity ; and dressings with marl and burnt clay will increase their density and improve their retentive capacity in regard to their capacity to retain manure. When soil is not suitable for our crops we must set about making it suitable, and not sit with folded hands complaining of our hard lot and disadvantages; but get to work industriously, and make good use of the advantages we do possess. Plodding industry, and a wise application of knowledge, are the ‘‘open sesame” to Nature’s bounteous stores. ” CHAPTER II. MANURES AND THEIR APPLICATION. The theory of manures, and the practical application of them, is intimately connected with the knowledge of the composition of plants and of soils. The vegetable organic constituents are composed chiefly of Carbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen, and Nitrogen. The organic compounds, denominated non-nitregenous, are important constituents of all plants. Some of them such as cellulose, liquine, starch, gum, sugar and oily matters, are universally diffused over the vegetable kingdom. Carbon enters largely into the composition of plants; it is said to form two-thirds of the weight of dried plants in general. This substance is familar to us in the form of charcoal. Charcoal is porous, and has the power of absorbing soluble gases in large quantity, and of separating saline and other matters from solutions. Nitrogen enters into combination with Hydrogen and forms Ammonia, composed of 1 equivalent of Nitrogen and 3 of Hydrogen. Ammonia is absorbed by the soil, and may thus be rendered available for the use of plants; clay attract- ing and retaining Ammonia. Part of the Nitrogen of plants is also derived from Nitric Acid and Nitrates. In order that nitrogenous matter may be formed, plants must havea supply, not only of Nitrogen, but also of Sulphur and Phosphates. 16 GARDENING FOR ALL. Plants are also built up of inorganic elements in conjunction with organic elements, and the chief are :— Sulphur, as Sulphuric Acid. Phosphates _,, Phosphoric Acid. Silicium si Silicic Acid. Calcium a Lime. Magnesium _,, Magnesia. Potassium i Potash. Sodium Af Soda. Chlorine | eae + In combination with metals. uorine Bromine Iron feroxide, in combination with Oxygen. Manganese, a : The quantity of inorganic matter in plants is small when compared with the organic constituents; it is nevertheless essential to the life and vigour of plants. The cell-walls cannot be formed without inorganic matters. Silica is present in large quantity in the stems of grasses. Phosphoric Acid is abundant in the grain of cereals, beans, potatoes, and turnips. Lime abounds in the stems of peas, beans, clover, potatoes, cabbage, turnips, and the bark and wood of trees. Potash, Soda, and Sulphuric Acid in peas, beans, cereals, potatoes,-turnips, cabbage, beet, celery, &c. It will thus be seen that the proper application of manures for the purpose of giving a sufficient quantity of the right kinds to plants, and with a view to true economy and profit, is a most important matter, and one requiring care and consideration. Manures of all descriptions have been «condemned at some time or other, not for their own faults, but because they have been misapplied, either to the wrong ‘crops, or at the wrong time, or in improper quantity, or to crops that required—as most do—a combination of chemicals and not one kind only. Hence the frequent and senseless condemnation, in turn, of Guano, Nitrate of Soda, Sulphate of Ammonia, Kainit, Superphosphate, &c., because one kind only has been applied to a crop that required a combination of several; say Nitrate of Soda, Kainit and Superphosphate instead of Nitrate alone. On other pages will be found lists of certain mixtures in their proper proportions for special crops, and they will illustrate the meaning of the above remarks. GARDENING FOR ALL. 17 FARMYARD MANURE. This is one of the best fertilising agents we have, when properly made and suitably preserved. It does everything an artificial or chemical manure does, and a great deal more. Farmyard manure acts both chemically and mechanically, both sustaining and increasing the depth of the soil. Its mechanical effects may be classed under five heads: First— it adds humus to the soil. Second—it makes the soil more capable of absorbing and retaining moisture. Third-—it lightens the soil, and makes it more accessible to the air and easier to work. Fourth—it renders the soil darker and more retentive of the warmth of the sun. Fifth—it enables the soil to hold Ammonia and Nitrogen more readily. The relative qualities of manures are :— First, Fowl manure. Second, Sheep “o Third, Horse i Fourth, Pig ” Fifth Cow And their chief manurial constituents are as follows :— One ton of Nitrogen. | Potash. | Lime. | Phosphoric Acid. Fowl manure contains 43 Ibs. 19 lbs. | 58 Ibs. 39 Ibs. Sheep ve a 20 as TA 33) is T3345 Horse - 7 i eee 13 5 TO ws Gn Cow a x Qo» ere | Oa Bes The kind of food given to animals influences the quality of manure considerably ; that from animals fed on decorticated cotton cake being considered best, and that from rape, linseed, wheat straw, bean straw, potatoes, mangolds, swedes, and turnips in the order here given. Manure from covered yards is generally much better than that from open yards; Lord Kinnaird having produced potatoes worth £11 58. od. from land so manured as against £7 12s. od. with open-yard manure; 54 bushels of wheat against 42 bushels, and 215 stone of straw against 150 stone. 18 GARDENING FOR ALL. The manurial value of waste products may be summarised thus :— Soot contains from 3 to 4 per cent. of Nitrogen. Shoddy Ee 5to 8 ra Dried Blood i 9 to 12 ‘a Hoofs and Horns ' a 10 to I5 Bones se 3to 5 “ * ” 20 to 25 cf Phosphoric Acid. Phosphatic Slag ‘sf 15 to 20 ‘i , Carolina Superphosphate vi 23 to 27 i Wood Ashes be 5 to 10 <4 Potash. LIQUID MANURE. The brown liquor that frequently drains from a manure heap is the life-blood of the garden and farm. This should either be collected in wells or tanks and used as liquid manure, or it should be preserved by the proper application of litter or peat moss. When we bear in mind the fact that plants can only absorb their food in the fluid state, it follows that to allow rich liquid manure to run to waste down ditches, is a great waste of material as food for plants and a great loss of money. Liquid manure is one of the most valuable fertilising agents we have. Thousands of fruit trees of all descriptions would be more vigorous, more fruitful, and longer lived if, during winter, they were only given the valuable food that is allowed to run to waste, and for which the trees are languishing. During winter, the liquid may be applied to orchard trees in its natural state; for gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and strawberries it had better be diluted with clear water. In spring and summer the liquid manure should be diluted with at least twice its bulk of clear water; let the maxim be ‘“‘ weak and often.” It is also better to apply it after rain, or when the ground is generally wet. Onions, cabbages, cauliflowers, peas, beans, asparagus, radishes, lettuce, celery, rhubarb, roses, and vines are all much benefited by frequent applications of weak liquid manure, especially when growing, flowering, or fruiting freely. “Z GARDENING FoR ALL. 19 EARTH CLOSET MANURE naturally comes next to liquid manure, as being always existent where civilised human life issustained. Its value as a manure is variously estimated. In China it has for a long period been in common use, indeed very little of any other kind is used in Chinese gardens. Dr. Voelker places a manurial value upon it at the rate of g/- per head per annum ; Sir John Lawes estimates it at 8/10. Dr. Voelker gives the constituents as follows :— Pounds per annum of all ages. Total dry substance am 45°95. Mineral matter .. 10°34. Carbon 4 a 16°85. Nitrogen Pe aa 794. Phosphate oe es 4°58. Notwithstanding such a low valuation, it is a very stimulating manure. Its effect upon the cabbage tribe, roses, and vines is very marked, but I do not recommend its use for potatoes, carrots, &c. Appended is a list of mixtures of chemical manures for various vegetables and fruit trees, and each mixture recom- mended is based upon the chemical analysis of the particular kind of plant to which it is to be applied. Each kind of plant or crop so manured will thus receive the kind of food most suitable for it, and, as a natural consequence, we shall have healthier plants and better crops in proportion as we wisely follow the most valuable information Dr. Griffiths has given. We must not do as two young farmers did a few years ago: They heard of Dr. Griffiths’s recommendation of of Sulphate of Iron for beans. He does not advise much more than 1 cwt. per acre to be applied; but they thought that quantity inadequate, and used it at the rate of 5 cwt. per acre to beans and wheat. The result was—no wheat and a damaged crop of beans! Other people make similar errors in the application of other chemical manures, and then condemn the manure instead of their own ignorance or foolishness. The chemical manures here recommended are intended to be used in conjunction with, or supplementary to, animal manures. 20 GARDENING FOR ALL. SPECIAL MANURES FOR SPECIAL CROPS. The Manures and their proportions mentioned below are such as are recommended by Dr. Griffiths and tested by myself several years, producing better results than other combinations of the same manures tried by me and applied to similar crops growing under similar conditions. POTATOES. Superphosphate of Lime . 7 Ibs. ) per rod 5 cwt. ag Nitrate of Soda ho SBR oy or Bigs | a Kainit na ee Be we j perch. 2 55 PEAS. Superphosphate of Lime .. 9 Ibs. per rod 6 cwt. | se Nitrate of Soda ai aes or 3h) au parviflora Campanula isophylla (Bell Flower) 8 pyramidalis (Chimney- pot Flower) Chrysanthemum Comte de Chambord (Marguerite) Chrysanthemum Etoile d’Or (Yellow Marguerite) Crassula coccinea (Kalosanthus) Calceolarias Callas (Lily of the Nile) Coronilla glauca Phyllocactus Ackermannii (Cactus) is Jenkinsonii ( ,, ) Petunias Diplacus aurantiacus Deutzia gracilis Dielytra spectabilis Francoa racemosa (Bridal Wreath plant) Fuchsias Genista Heliotrope Lysimachia nummularia) Money- wort) Liliums Mimulus moschetus (Musk) Myrtle Nerium oleander (Oleander) Pelargoniums, Zonale (Geranium » Variegated ( » Show ( »; Ivy-leaved ( Primula obconica ) ») » ) ) ” Saxifraga sarmentosa (Mother-of- Thousands) 146 GARDENING FOR ALL. There are numerous other plants which will last for a short time in a window, but I prefer to omit all such from my lists and to mention only those plants which will live for years in a window, provided ordinary care is bestowed upon them. WINDOW PLANTS GROWN ONLY FOR THEIR FOLIAGE. Aralia Sieboldii Aspidistra lurida variegata Acacia lopbantha Bambusa metake (Hardy Bamboo) Cactus (of sorts) Carex japonica fol. variegata Draccena australis > Viridis Eucalyptus globulus Ficus elastica (India-rubber) plant Gasteria Grevillea robusta Haworthias Ornithogalum longibracteatum (Onion Plant) Sibthorpia europea Isolepis gracilis Aloes, of kinds PALMS: - Chameerops humilis om excelsa st Fortunei Livistona australis FERNS :— Adiantum cuneatum (Maiden-hair) 5 capillus veneris (Maiden- hair) Asplenium bulbiferum aa marinum (spleenwort) Athyrium Filix-feemina (Lady fern) Cyrtomium falcatum Davallia canariensis (Hares-foot fern) Lastrea Lomaria gibba Onychium japonicum Osmunda regalis (Royal fern) Polypodium vulgare cambricum (Welsh Polybody ) Polystichum angulare proliferuam Pteris serrulata », tremula Scolopendrium (Harts tongue) USEFUL HINTS. Window plants require water, air, light, food and cleanliness. Always saturate the whole mass of soil when water is applied at all. Let the plants have fresh air, but do not subject them to draughts; a chill is as harmful to them as to yourself. Give them all the light and sunshine they can bear without apparent injury. Turn the flants round weekly. GARDENING FoR ALL. 147 Apply food in sufficient quantity to maintain healthy vigour; a teaspoonful of Clay’s or Standen’s manure fortnightly during the growing season, or liquid manure ‘* weak and often.” Keep the plants as clean as possible, both from insect pests and from accumulations of dust. Those with large leaves and palms may easily be sponged, using soapy water. Strong-growing ferns are benefited by an occasional syringing, also the flowering plants when not in flower. All—except the delicate maidenhair fern—may be exposed to gentle rain in warm weather with great advantage. Aphis, Red Spider and Thrips may easily be destroyed by placing the intested plants in a small room, shed, large box, or anything which will hold the plants and retain the smoke or vapour, and using carefully an XL All Vaporiser. Scale should be removed by means of a sponge and soapy water, the latter to be at the rate of about two ounces of sott soap, or washing soap, to one gallon of water. When re-potting a plant be sure that the fresh pot is perfectly clean zside as well as outside. Drain the pot well with potsherds, and cover the latter with long moss. Pot firmly, z.c., make the new soil around the plant as solid as the old ball of soil. Let the plant be thoroughly watered several hours before potting. SOILS FOR— Flowering *Loam 3 parts, Cactaceous Plants— Plants| Leaf-mould Foliage ,, I part, Loam 3 parts, Palms Sand 1 part. Old Mortar 1 part, Ferns— Sand 1 part, Loam 2 parts, Leaf-mould 1 part, ‘Peat & Sand 1 part each. I part. LIQUID MANURE may be made from one pound of Guano to twenty gallons of water ; or one peck of soot and one peck of sheep or horse manure to thirty gallons of water; or one peck of fowl or pigeon manure to thirty gallons of water. Dried Cow Manure CHAPIER AVL. FLOWER CULTURE. FLOWERS TO GROW FOR MARKET. Anemones (White), Cornflowers, Carnations, Chrysan- themums (White), Coreopsis, Doronicums, Delphiniums, Fritillarias, Galega, Gypsophila, Harpalium, Helianthus, Iris, Lilies (White), Lupins, Monarda, Narcissus, Poppies (Shirley, Iceland, Welsh), Phlox, Pentstemous, Pinks (White), Pyrethrums, Mignonette, Roses, Sweet Peas, Wallflowers, Violets, Rudbeckias, Lilies of the Valley, Globe Flowers (Trollius), Sweet Sultan. SELECT HARDY PERENNIALS FOR COTTAGERS AND OTHERS. *Achillea serrata flore pleno Alstroemeria aurea (Milfoil) a psittacina So ly ptarmica ,, *Anemone japonica (Wind-flower) Alyssum saxatile (Mad wort) 45 a alba *Antirrhinums (Snap Dragon) *Aster amellus (Michaelmas *Aquilegia ccerulea (Columbine) Daisies) He chrysantha * 4, fortunei a canadensis * |, elegans Aubretia Hendersonii * ,, Nova Belgie a3 purpurea Auricula Anthemis Kelwayii *Calochortus luteus (MariposaLily) *Campanula glomerata = ‘5 venustus ey ass grandis alba «Centaurea montana (Centaury) Koes persicifolia alba * 4; 3 alba Al latifolia Coreopsis grandiflora (Tick-seed) GARDENING *Chrysanthemum maximum S 9 uliginosum *Delphinium formosum (Larkspur) * 3 Bernice Digitalis (Foxgloves) *Eryngium amethystinum (Sea Holly) *Gaillardia grandiflora (Blanket Flower) *Harpalium rigidum *Helianthus multiflorus Sunflower) Helleborus niger major (Christ- mas Rose) *Iris germanica (German Iris) *Lupinus polyphyllus *Lychnis chalcedonica * ,, dioica fl. pl. Monarda didyma (Dwarf Narcissus poeticus fl. pl. *Papaver nudicaule (Iceland Poppy) Fy bracteatum *Pinks, white *Pyrethrums in variety Polygonatum multiflorum (Solomon’s Seal) *Rudbeckia Newmannii Scilla sibirica (Squill) Spirea aruncus (Meadow Sweet « ,, ulmaria fi. pl. » filipendua Veronicas (Speedwell) of sorts Violets FOR ALL. 149 *Carnations *Clematis erecta Dictamuus fraxinella (Fraxinella) 3 5 alba *Doronicum austriacum (Leopard’s bane) *Fritillaria imperialis (Crown Imperial) *Galega officinalis (Goats Rue) *Gypsophila paniculata *Hesperis matronalis fl. pl. (Rocket) Helenium pumilum *Lilium candidum (White Lily) Lavatera trinervis Mimulus moschata (Musk) *Meconopsis cambrica (Welsh Poppy) Myosotis dissitiflora (Forget-me- not) Cinothera Fraseri (Evening Primrose) Pentstemons Peeonies *Phlox decussata varieties Polemonium ccruleum (Jacob’s Ladder) a 55 album. Polyanthus and Primroses Saxifraga umbrosa (London Pride) *Solidago altissima (Golden Rod) 39 humilis Trollius europeus (Globe Flower), re Fortuneii fi. pl. Lily of the Valley (Convallaria), The 50 genera and species marked with an * are easy to grow, effective in appearance, and are useful for cutting for market purposes or for home decoration. White flowers. 150 GARDENING FOR ALL. are in greater demand than coloured flowers. The months of October, November, March and April are the best for planting perennials. Carnations should be layered at the beginning of July, they then quickly root. White Lilies ought to be divided and planted immediately after flowering, when division is necessary. Perennials require sustenance as well as other plants, therefore, place a little manure or decayed leaves about them each autumn, winter, or spring. Do not disturb the plants too frequently or allow them to be injured by the careless use of the spade or fork about them. Perennials are plants which live more than two years ; some make growth above ground which dies down again each year like Delohiniums and Phloxes; others do not, like Irises, Carnations, and London Pride. PERENNIALS FOR SHADY BORDERS. Anemone japonica, Auriculas, Foxgloves, Iris germanica, Willow Weed (Epilobium), Christmas Roses, London Pride, Solomon’s Seal, Phlox suffruticosa, Michaelmas Daisies, Peeonies, Aconites, Squills, Blue Bells, Snowdrops, Primroses, Polyanthus, Golden Rod, Lily of the Valley, Cow Parsnip (Heracleum giganteum), Clematis Jackmannui, Virginian Creeper, Ivy and Ferns. It must not be understood that the aforementioned plants will succeed better in shade than in sunshine, because they will zof; but they are most likely to thrive better under such conditions—and they usually do—than many other plants. FLOWERS FOR SMOKY DISTRICTS. Alyssum, Arabis, Anemones, Antirrhinums, Aquilegias, Auriculas (Alpine), Michaelmas Daisies, Carnations, Digitalis, Sunflowers, Iris, Crocus, Oriental Poppy, Pyrethrums, Solomon’s Seal, 4Enotheras, Golden Rod, London Pride, Jacob’s Ladder, Polyanthus, Pceonies, Blue Bells, Candytuft, Sweet Sultan, Mignonette, Mimulus, Silene, Saponaria, Tropzolum, Wallflowers, Honesty, Pinks, Sweet Williams, Stocks, Asters. HARDY ANNUALS CHAPTER XVII. FLOWER CULTURE. FOR FLOWER-BEDS AND FLOWER-BORDERS. SELECTION OF KINDS. NAME. Height Colour. Time to Sow. ca *Bartonia aurea 14 ft. Yellow April 1-15 | California *Calliopsis Burridgei 3 ,,| Crimson and Yell. << Texas 33 bicolor 3 4 5 $3 -, 33 a lanceolata Dh cs Lemon 43 5 *Candytuft, mixed (Iberis)| 1 ___,, Various. Mar. to May| Europe *Chrysanthewum tricolor | 2-3 ,,| White, Yell., Black) April 1-15 5 a Burridgeanum | 2-3 ,,| White, Yell., Crim. 43 a *Cornflowers (Centaurea) | 2-3 ,, Blue “i Britain *Clarkia of sorts lk ,, Various i North America Collinsia bicolor 1 ,,| White and Lilac California »» grandiflora 1 ,,| White and Purple ei _Columbia *Convolvolus major, of sorts|10-14,, Various » 15-30 _ <5 minor, » | los ” $5 = *Eschscholtzia californica 1 Ss crocea a ” » 1-15 California 1 ,,| Orange and Crim. 152 GARDENING FoR ALL. NAME. Height Colour. Time to Sow. *Delphinium Ajacis 13 ft. Various April 1-15 (Rocket) * —,, divaricatum 2), ” ” (branching) Leptosiphon carmineus 2» Crimson. . Love-lies-bleeding 2% a », 15-30 (Amaranthus caudatus) *Lupinus Hartwegii »| Blue and White bs i hybridus albo. »,| Crimson and White a coccineus Malope grandiflora 2 » Crimson i *Godetia Duchess of Albany| | ., White ” * ,, Lady Albemarle | 1 ,, Crimson ‘i Mignonette (Reseda) 1 ,,| White to Green. April Mimulus guttatus (Spotted | 4-1 ,, Various 5, 15-30 Monkey-flower) *Nemophila insignis ey Blue 5, 1-15 Nigella hispanica 3% ,,| Blue and White a (Love-in-a-mist) Cnothera (Evening 1-2 ,, Yellow Primrose) » bistorta Veitchii | 1 ,,; Yellow and Crim. - *Phacelia campanularia 1» Blue *Poppy, Shirley 1-2,, Various 3 *Salpiglossis, Large- 2) 45 #9 , 15-30 flowering *Sapovaria calabrica e 38 Pink a = 5 ocymoides sh, Rose Pink + Native Country. Tauria Persia California Philippine Islands California +9 South Europe Mexico& Chili Egypt North America California Spain North America California Britain hybrid Chili Calabria ” GARDENING FoR ALL. 153 NAME. Height Colour Time to Sow. Gane. *Silene pendula compacta | 4 ft Bright Pink April 15-30 Sicily wr Sas ‘ flore pleno | Pink $4) sf *Schizanthns papilionaceus | 2 ,. Various “6 Chili a pinnatus roseus | 24, Rose » ” *Sweet Peas(Pisum elatum)| 6 ,, Various March Iberia *Sweet Sultan (Centaurea) | 13 ,, Various April Persia Tropeolum majus 6-10,,] Crimson and Yell. 5 Peru ( Nasturtium) >> peregrinum (canary | 6-10 ,, Yellow + Peru aud creeper) Mexico Virginian Stock (Malcomia)| 3 ,, Various "i Europe Viscaria cardinalis 14, Majenta be Algiers », elegans picta 13 ,,| Crim. and White zy eh >, oculata li ,, Pink, dark eye a 6 Of the foregoing 31 genera those marked * will probably give most satisfaction. ‘“ Annuals” are plants which grow from seed, flower, and die in one year under ordinary conditions of their requirements of growth. These plants require good soil and space for develope- Thin them freely ment if the best results are to be attained. when the seedlings are large enough to handle; those a foot and more in height ought to be left from six inches to a toot apart, with the exception of Sweet Peas; those less than a foot in height should be left from three to six inches apart. Packets of seed may be purchased at prices varying from one penny to one shilling each, in quantities to suit all gardens. A good display of hardy annuals may be produced for the first cost of half-a-crown. 154 GARDENING FOR ALL. Very small seeds ought to be only just covered with soil ; those a little larger may be sown halt-an-inch deep; and one inch is deep enough for the largest seeds, except Peas and Lupins, which require to be sown about two inches deep. HARDY BIENNIALS. Plants which grow from seed one year, and flower, seed, and die the second year under ordinary conditions of growth. NAME. Height Colour. Campanula calycanthema | 23 ft Blue » ” alba} ,, White », media (Canterbury| ,, Various hells) Wallflowers (Cheiranthus Th 35 Crimson, Yellow Cheirii) 5 double German 35 Various Honesty (Lunaria biennis) | 2} ,, | Purple and White Indian Pinks (Dianthus le os Various Heddewigii) Sweet Williams (Dianthus | 1 ,, “ barbatus) Brompton Stocks (Mathiola simplicicaulis) Scarlet, White Times to Sow. April May or June Plant out permanently. October Hardy Annuals and Biennials are plants which do not require shelter or protection from an ordinary amount of frost when under average cultural conditions. Tender Annuals are well known in Asters, Ten-week Stocks, Zinnias, Helichrysums, and Phlox Drummondii. Tender Biennials are of no real value to the small gardener, though no well-managed flower-garden would be complete without some representatives. Mark & Moody’s Publications. 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