Cornell University Library W721 1871 rowers manual, containing br “unc 1924 0 mann SB 4 THE ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, CONTAINING Hrief Descriptions of uptuards of Cight Bundred Species and Darieties of Orchidaccous Plants ; TOGETHER WITH NOTICES OF THEIR TIMES OF FLOWERING, AND MOST APPROVED MODES OF TREATMENT; ALSO, PLAIN AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS RELATING TO THE GENERAL CULTURE OF ORCHIDS; AND REMARKS ON THE HEAT, MOISTURE, SOIL, AND SEASONS OF GROWTH AND REST BEST SUITED TO THE SEVERAL SPECIES, BY BENJAMIN SAMUEL WILLIAMS, F.R.HL.S., Author of “ Select Ferns and Lycopods,” “ Choice Stove and Greenhouse Flowering Plants,” ““ Choice Stove and Greenhouse Ornamental-leaved Plants,” dc., dc. FOURTH EDITION, ENLARGED AND REVISED. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS, LONDON: PUBLISHED AT VICTORIA AND PARADISE NURSERIES, UPPER HOLLOWAY, N. 1871. LONDON; Faintep sy Jas. Truscort anD Son, Suffolk Lane, City. CONTENTS. ADVICE TO ORCHID COLLECTORS 4 ‘ 4 , ‘ ‘ GLAzING ORCHID Houses . 3 ' 5 : ‘ ‘i é HEATING ORCHID Houszs . ’ c . ‘ . ‘i . INTRODUCTION A . i q ‘ * ‘ : i . . INsECcTS . ‘ ‘ “ * “ “ ‘ j “ . MODE OF PRODUCING Back GROWTHS e ‘ “ . ' . MAKING ORCHID BASKETs . * é ) ‘ ‘ ‘ ORcHID Houses . . ‘ a “i ‘ ‘ , e ‘i 7 ORCHIDS FOR THE GREENHOUSE AND COLD FRAME. 3 A . PACKING ORCHIDS FOR CONVEYANCE TO EXHIBITIONS . ‘ ‘ PLAN OF OROHID House . % ‘ ‘ : : ‘ . ‘ PROPAGATION OF ORCHIDS . ‘ : “ s ‘ “ “ * Potting EPIPHYTAL ORCHIDS . ‘ s ‘ i: ‘ e 7 TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS ‘ . : ‘ ‘ e . Rot In ORCHIDS . é . ‘ 4 : * é ‘ ‘ ‘ Spot IN ORCHIDS . A . i i ‘ i d 5 c . SELECT ORCHIDS AT PRESENT IN CULTIVATION 3 ‘ . SHADING 3 . : ‘1 Fi . ‘ ; i . By Soa SEEDLING ORCHIDS ‘ ‘ a . a ‘ rn ¥ * TREATMENT OF TROPICAL Cnecins 7 o . . . . . DURING GROWTH . : ‘ js é ‘ ‘1 é DURING TIME OF REST . ‘ . 3 8 . ‘ oF PLANTS IN BLooM . ‘ e i OF PLANTS PREVIOUSLY TO BEING TAKEN TO Bustte EXHIBITIONS . a ‘ . " ‘ . : OF NEWLY-IMPORTED PLANTS i ‘ 3 - VENTILATION OF ORCHID HOUSES ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ . 5 ¥ WATERING ORCHIDS . r 4 ‘i ¥ 5 w “ ‘ 7 Page 46 39 36 50 20 58 81 282 40 14 388 21 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CYPRIPEDIUM CONCOLOR ‘ Lowit . ‘ . 4 VILLOSUM 7 a ‘ DENDROBIUM JAMESIANUM . Nanopres Mrepusa ODONTOGLOSSUM GLORIOSUM. HALLII NEBULOSUM RADIATUM . ————————. WARNERIANUM . ONcIDIUM ROGERSII SPLENDIDUM 3 ‘ PHAJUS IRRORATUS ‘ PHALZENOPSIS AMETHYSTINA : a r VANDA C@RULESCENS . —-—— CATHCARTII ——— DENISONIANA . 217 220 222 220 225 238 241 246 59 275 276 PREFACE TO THE FOURTH EDITION. Tue rapidity with which the third edition of this work has been disposed of, and the frequent assurances I have had from Amateur Orchid Growers, both abroad and at home, of the benefits they have derived from the use of it, have induced me to issue a new edition, in which many new and fine species and varieties, which have but recently been introduced into cultivation, are included. It is a source of great satisfaction to me to know that my efforts to assist amateurs in the cultivation of the interesting and extremely beautiful class of Orchidaceous plants have not only been crowned with success, but that they have also been the means of inducing many other plant-lovers to commence their study and cultivation. It is equally satisfactory to me to know, that the ‘‘ORcHID-GROWER’S ManuaL’”’ is not confined, as re- gards its sphere of usefulness, to our own country, for it now circulates freely amongst lovers of these charming plants residing in America, Australia, the Vili PREFACE. East and West Indies and Brazil, as well as in various parts of the European Continent. In consequence of this encouragement, I have now endeavoured to increase its utility—first, by introducing a few illustrations, which have been kindly lent to me by the Editors of the Gardeners’ Chronicle and of the Florist and Pomologist; and also, more particularly, by carefully and thoroughly revising the text, which has, moreover, received many additions under the heads of both cultural treatment and descriptions of recently- introduced Orchids, of which I have now added all that appear to me to be worthy the attention of amateur growers. It should, however, be remembered, in making use of this little volume, that it does not profess to deal with Orchidaceous plants from a scientific point of view, but simply aims at supplying some popular descriptive notes of the most beautiful kinds, and at furnishing a record of such practical information in connection with their culture gleaned from my own experience, as has enabled me to attain to a very satisfactory degree of success in the growth and exhibition of these floral gems. B.S. WILLIAMS, VICTORIA AND PARADISE NURSERIES, Uprer HoLitoway, N., March, 1871, THE ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, INTRODUCTION. E. cultivation of Orchidaceous plants is no longer exclusively the privilege of the few, since their nature and requirements are far better understood than was the case a few years ago. This has arisen chiefly from two causes: firstly, from the useful information given us by those who have studied the plants in their native habitats ; and, secondly, from the close study and application by means of which cultivators at home have brought the results of the observations of travellers to bear in a practical manner on the culture of the plants when introduced into this country. It cannot be too strongly impressed upon the minds of all who send home plants of this order from foreign lands that every scrap of information respecting the climate, temperature, alti- tude, soil, &c., of the locality in which each species is found, is of the greatest importance to the cultivator no less than to the scientific observer. Not, indeed, that under cultivation we can strictly imitate the natural surroundings of each particular species or variety ; neither do I think in all cases B 2 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. that would be desirable, but the information would enable us to give the treatment most congenial to the requirements of each, so far as the means at our command would afford. The want of some such information has been a source of extreme vexation to many lovers of these plants in years gone by; indeed, had we received any account as to the physical and climatal surroundings of the many fine things found and collected by M. Warscewicz, and other travellers of that period, the collections of the present day would be able to boast of many fine species which have never since reached this country in a living state. The collections alluded to were, however, sent to this country in a careless manner, without the slightest indication of the conditions under which they had been growing; and, Orchidology being then in its infancy, they were nearly all killed by being subjected to intense heat, this being in those days considered the correct course to pursue with all Orchidaceous plants. Thus hundreds of beautiful species, which had been collected at great trouble and risk, and were purchased by eager amateurs at home, oftentimes at great cost, rapidly died out, simply from the prevailing ignorance of the localities in which they had been growing. To prevent a repetition of such disasters and disappoint- ments, the experience of those who have had the good fortune to see Orchids growing in a state of nature is of the greatest importance, giving as it does a basis of operations to any experiments which may be made. Strange as it may appear to some, and ridiculous as it has been pronounced by others, I do not consider it is advisable to imitate strictly the natural conditions in which plants are sometimes found, because we have so many proofs that, as individual specimens, the culti- vated plants are frequently to be seen in greater perfection than those naturally grown; and it is only reasonable to infer INTRODUCTION. 3 that such would be the case with the majority of small-growing tropical plants, when we consider the struggle for existence which is constantly going on throughout the vegetable kingdom, and remember that they are subject to all the vicissitudes of the weather, whereas under cultivation extreme care and atten- tion are bestowed upon each individual plant, and no pains are spared to develop its beauties, and shield it from every harm. I admit that we should by all means take nature as our guide for the production of good plants, but it should be nature in her best garb only ; and then, looking as I do upon cultivation as a help to nature, the result can only be an improve- ment, if success has been attained in the object aimed at. Let me endeavour to render my meaning clear by a familiar example. I have frequently seen some of our indigenous ferns, such as Scolopendriums, Lastreas, &c., growing upon dry banks, stony ground, and old ruins, where they have pre- sented the appearance of short, stunted, ill-favoured plants, but still they were in a state of nature. Now, no one would recommend the cultivator to imitate that phase of nature. No; rather would the counsellor say, ‘‘ Go to that shady dell, with the limpid stream flowing through it; there you will see the rich green, fully developed, and graceful fronds of these gems in all their beauty.” This, then, I say is the phase of nature which cultivators should take as their guide, and endeavour to improve upon; and I submit that these con- siderations are strictly applicable to the plants we have taken under our especial cognizance in this volume. To exemplify this I will take an extract from a letter of Colonel Benson’s, one of the most acute observers and successful introducers of Orchids of the present day. He says: ‘‘ Dendrobium formosum does not appear to seek shady places for growth; in fact, as far as my knowledge goes, few Orchids do, beyond what is given by the trees when in leaf. During the months of BQ 4 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. February, March, and April, they must be exposed to an atmosphere of 110° in the shade. That the fresh-grown pseudobulbs are by this means reduced in size or shrivelled there can be no question; and in some of the mountain Orchids this reduction takes place to such an extent as to render it doubtful whether they are the same plants, when first seen at the end of rains.” Now take the case of these plants under culture ; the growing or rainy season past, their supply of water would be gradually diminished, and they would be exposed to the full effects of the sun with plenty of air, but only so long as they could withstand this treatment without shrivelling ; should this condition ensue, or should exhaustion from any other cause arise, the cultivator steps in, and by judicious treatment preserves the strength and consequently the health of the plant, whilst the plants in their native localities must bear the full power of the scorching sun, let even death be the result. Here, then, I say is a proof that art does in some instances assist nature. Nearly all epiphytal Orchids are subject to a period of rest, growth taking place during the rainy season, while their rest- ing period occurs during the dry season. Under cultivation, however, we have to alter considerably the circumstances, and make our dry season also the coolest, which is the reverse of what the plants experience naturally ; but this seems to be the most judicious plan we can adopt, for it would simply be mad- ness to endeavour to force our Orchids to make their growth during the winter months, and rest them during the summer. The best season of rest for the majority of Orchids is from about the beginning of November until the end of February. This long period of drought predisposes the plants to blossom, and also prevents them from making weak and sickly growths, which would undoubtedly be the case in our short, dark, and sunless days of winter. INTRODUCTION. 5 In this place, of course, rules respecting the growth and rest of Orchids can only be stated in general terms, the treatment in detail being given with the description of each particular genus. Then, again, there are certain species which are never entirely inactive throughout the whole year, amongst which may be named some of the Odontoglossums, Masde- vallias, and many others beside, whose home is in the Peru- vian Andes and other high mountain districts. It is often thought that as Orchidaceous plants are so extremely tenacious of life, the fact of their dying can only be the result of carelessness in their management; but it should be borne in mind that we have under the same roof plants from many different countries, whose natural habitats must vary immensely in all respects. Now, if a little thought is only bestowed upon this fact, it should rather be a matter of surprise how so many plants are successfully managed, than how many are lost. Epiphytal Orchids are found in tropical countries growing on the low grounds or plains, and are also met with as we ascend the mountains up to an elevation of 14,000 feet above the level of the sea. At this altitude, in New Grenada, Oncidium nubigenum flourishes. This is, I think, the greatest altitude at which these plants are recorded to have been found. Odontoglossum Alexandre and O. Bluntii occur at from 7,000 to 8,000 feet elevation, as does O. luteo-purpureum and its varieties, Masdevallias, Restrepiuas, and many others from Peru and New Grenada. At such elevations, as a matter of course, these plants are naturally subjected to a low temperature, an abundant supply of water, and a very moist atmosphere throughout the year, and consequently they cannot withstand a resting season or period of drought under cultivation ; whilst, if we turn to the Eastern Continent, we find such plants as Dendrobium infundibulum, D. chrysotoxwm, D. Farmeri, Aerides 6 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, Lobbit, Saccolabium ampullaceum, S. giganteum, Cypripedium concolor, Cymbidium tigrinum, &ec., all growing at elevations varying from 2,000 to 7,000 feet, enjoying a copious supply of water during their period of growth, and subjected to a very severe resting season. Now, as these plants grow upon the stems and branches of the forest trees, or upon rocks, they must necessarily be exposed to all the breezes that blow. How reprehensible, then, is the practice of many growers of Orchids in trying to exclude air from their Orchid houses. For the well-being of Orchids, it should be remembered that a free circulation of air is absolutely necessary, as well as an abundance of light; but cold draughts, and also the burning effects of the sun’s rays, must be avoided, for it is not essen- tia] to their well-being to be hung up close to the glass, fully exposed to the blazing sun: indeed, the life of the plants would, under such circumstances, soon be sucked out of them if shading were not prepared. There are so-called observers of nature who blame the cultivator for many of his acts, and he has perhaps suffered more wrong at the hands of this class of persons upon the matter of shading, than upon any other. We are frequently told that in a state of nature such and such plants grow in most exposed situations—situations open to the full effects of a tropical sun, and that nothing can be more erroneous than the manner in which we use “blinds” for the purpose of keeping away the bright light of that lumi- nary. All I can say in answer to these objectors is that they totally lose sight of the fact that our plants are growing under glass, which has the power of rapidly burning up the leaves and disfiguring our plants for years, if not for life. A little practice would soon teach such persons how erroneous their ideas had been, and they would soon sink their so-called natural treatment, had they to be responsible for the effects produced by their advice. In leaving this subject, I must INTRODUCTION. 7 add that plant growers are keenly alive to the advantages of strong sunlight for their plants, but that they are too prac- tical to allow more than is advantageous to them under the artificial circumstances in which they are placed. Orchid cultivators, and indeed all lovers of Orchids, lost a good and valuable friend and instructor in the late Dr. Lindley; and in this particular branch of botany no one amongst us has been found competent to fill up the void. Professor Reichenbach, who was the friend of Dr. Lindley, is undoubtedly the first living authority in regard to the nomen- clature of Orchids, but the fact of his labours being carried on in Germany—no fault of his, but our misfortune—cannot but fail to be disadvantageous to English cultivators. We are bound to thank Professor Reichenbach most cordially, not only for the valuable information he imparts to us, but for the extremely kind and courteous manner in which he gives the desired information to any and all who seek it at his hands. Since the publication of the third edition of this book, horticulture has suffered a great loss by the death of Mr. James Veitch, to whose energy and spirit of enterprise we are indebted for the introduction of an immense number of our choicest plants, including not only those of the order to which these pages are specially devoted, but of others adapted for the decoration of the stove, the greenhouse, and the open garden. It is also a matter of extreme regret that his son, Mr. John Gould Veitch, should have been cut off by death also so soon after hig father; for, though but a young man, he had displayed brilliant talents, both as a keen observer and a judicious collector, and this combined with a sound practical knowledge of horticulture, so that he bid fair to sustain the family reputation. In bringing these introductory remarks to a close, I wish to record my deep sense of our obligations to the many 8 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. travellers and collectors who have added so largely to our knowledge of Orchids, and who have laboured so arduously and incessantly to enable us to enjoy the beauties of the choicest productions of the vegetable world, without the dangers and difficulties with which they had to contend. Many of them, alas! have fallen victims to the fatigues of the under- taking, and the pestilential climate, thus suffering martyrdom for the cause of horticulture. I allude specially to such men as the brothers Lobb, Hartweg, J. G. Veitch, Colonel Benson, O'Reilly, the Rev. C. Parish, Pearce, Bowmann, Weir, Hutton, Kramer, Porte, Wallis, Linden, Skinner, Hugh Low, Schim, Warscewicz, and many others who might be named, did space permit. These were men who had in view the advancement of science, and the enriching of our collections with new plants and new forms ; and their example might be followed with advantage by many of the latter day collectors, who, instead of sending home a few plants in good order, allowing the skill of the cultivator to grow and increase them at home, seem determined to exterminate the race of Orehids from their natural localities, without any one deriving benefit thereby ; for when such vast quantities are gathered, they arrive in this country in an almost putrid state, arising from overcrowding ; whilst, had a few dozens only been sent, and that with proper care in packing, they would in all probability have arrived in a living state. THE TREATMENT OF TROPICAL ORCHIDS. RCHIDS are divided into two sections, terrestrial and epiphytal. Those are termed Terrestrial that grow in earth; such are the genera Orchis, Phajus, Calanthe, Bletia, Cypripedium, Neottia, Goodyera, Epipactis, TREATMENT DURING GROWTH. 9 &e., which all draw their support directly from the ground. The Epiphytal Orchids inhabit trees and rocks, from which, however, they derive little or no nourishment. These are by far the most numerous and interesting. Some are found adhering to the stems and branches of living trees; some of them delight in elevated situations in lofty forests, while others grow upon low trees. Some occur on rocks and mountains, some on trees overhanging rivers, and some near dripping rocks—the latter, of course, requiring a particularly damp atmosphere to grow in. Those which are found in dense woods, where scarcely any sun can penetrate, require a shady moist atmosphere, whilst those found in more elevated situations do not need so much shade as the last. A know- ledge of the different habitats of the various species is essential to the careful grower, in order that he may, as far as his means permit, place them in circumstances similar to those in which they make their natural growth; and it is, no doubt, to inattention, or want of information on this point, that the want of success in the culture of some Orchidaceous plants, by even the most successful of our cultivators, is to be attributed. TREATMENT DURING GROWTH. have in our Orchid houses plants from localities which vary much in every respect; some of them, moreover, produce their flowers early in spring, others in summer, and others again during the dull days of winter. It will therefore be readily understood that the period of starting into growth should vary also ; but as for convenience sake we rest our Orchids in winter, the majority will begin to BS 10 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. push up their young shoots as soon as the days lengthen and the sun gains increased power. This being the case, when the growing season commences, the temperature of the Hast Indian house—the house in which the greatest heat is main- tained, should be increased to 65° by night and 70° by day, while by sun-heat it may be allowed to range up to 75°. As the days lengthen, so the temperature may be permitted to increase; and during the months of May, June, July, and August, it should range from 70° to 75° by night, and from 75° to 80° by day, or by sun-heat to 85°, or even 90°, which will not do any harm, provided the plants are shaded from the direct rays of the sun. The house devoted to the Brazilian plants and to some of those from Mexico, should be heated to about 60° by night, and from 65° to 70° by day; and as the days lengthen the temperature may be allowed to inerease, so that during the months of May, June, July, and August the night heat may range from 65° to 70°, and by day from 70° to 85°. Great attention should, at the same time, be paid to the state of the atmosphere, as regards moisture. At all times of the year this is of much importance to the successful growth of the plants, for they derive the greater part of their subsistence from moisture in the air, so that wherever any plants are growing, the atmosphere should be well supplied with moisture: this is obtained by pouring water over the tables, walls, and paths of the house every morning and afternoon, thus causing a nice moist heat to rise, which is of great value whilst the plants are in a vigorous state of growth, especially as regards the Kast Indian Orchids, such as derides, Saccolabinm, Vunda, Phala- uapsis, Dendrobium, and many others requiring a high tempe- rature, with a considerable degree of moisture. The Brazilian Orchids, most of which come from a cooler climate, not so highly saturated with vapour, of course require less heat and TREATMENT DURING GROWTH. 11 moisture, but these should also have a considerable degree of warmth during their growing season. Of late years we have had so many additions to what are called Cool-house Orchids, that it is quite necessary there should be added another house specially for their cultivation, and which we may call the New Grenada and Peruvian house ; this will accommodate a great number of plants from various high mountain districts, which may be grown together under the same treatment. I do not recommend ordinary greenhouses for Orchids, for my belief is, that very few Orchid growers will uphold that treatment long; for although we are told by col- lectors that many of the species of epiphytal Orchids are found in localities where the temperature falls so low at times that the plants are frequently covered with a white frost, I do not think it expedient to subject them to such cool treatment in this country. The house I recommend for the Odontoglossums and other genera and species that come from similar regions, and, consequently, require the same treatment, is precisely the same as the others, only it must be kept at a lower temperature, say from 45° to 55° in winter, and from 50° to 65° in summer. This house should be well shaded from the sun, which will help to keep the heat down, as too much heat is dangerous for the cool Orchids. No fire heat will be required in summer except on cold or wet days and nights, the object of then having recourse to artificial heat, being to keep the house from getting too damp, damp- ness without warmth being very detrimental to plants of this order. There are but few Orchids that will do without heat, except those that come from North America and other cold climates, and these are treated on in a chapter by themselves in another part of this book. 12 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. TREATMENT DURING THE TIME OF REST. $ the time of starting into growth varies considerably with different kinds, so also, as a matter of course, will the season of rest, although with but few ex- ceptions it comes on during the autumn months. Rest, it has been elsewhere stated, is of great importance to Orchids, as well as to other things. No plant will continue long in good health without it. My practice is to give them a long season of rest, generally from November to the middle of February. During this time the temperature of the East Indian house should be regulated so as to keep it as nearly as possible at 60° by night and 65° by day ; but by sun-heat the temperature will rise a few degrees higher. Air must then be given so as to keep it about 65°; but a few degrees of solar warmth above this point will do no harm. A little air should be given on every fine day, in order to dry up the moisture ; but the air must be admitted so as to pass over the hot-water pipes, so that it may become warm on entering the house. In the case of those plants that come from the hotter parts of India, the temperature should not be allowed to go below 60°. The Brazilian house, which may also include all the species from the warmer parts of Mexico, should range from 50° to 55° by night, and from 55° to 60° by day; this should not be allowed to go below 50° at night. The New Grenadan, or cool-house, should not be allowed to get below about 45°. Rest is induced by lowering the temperature, and with- holding water. During this period the plants should only receive sufficient water to keep them from shrivelling. There are, however, some that will grow during the winter months, amongst which may be enumerated many species of Aerides, TREATMENT DURING THE TIME OF REST. 13 Vanda, Saccolabium, Phalaenopsis, Zygopetalum, and similar kinds. These will require water at the roots to keep them increasing, but eare should be taken not to wet the young shoots, for if they get wet they will be very apt to rot. Those that are growing should be placed at the warmest end of the house. Some Orchids are deciduous, losing their leaves after they have finished their growth. To this class belong the species of Cyrtopodiiun, Barkeria, Cycnoches, Thunia alba, T. Ben- sonia, and some of the Dendrobiums, with Pleione maculata, P. Wallichiana, P. lagenaria, and many others. These should be always so placed that they may have as much light and sun during their season of rest as possible. This is the only way to ripen their pseudobulbs,. which causes them to grow stronger, and flower more freely. When at rest the pre- viously named kinds reqiire but very little water, but when those without pseudobulbs, e.9., Vanda, Angraecum, Aerides, Saccolabium, and Phalenopsis are at rest, they should never be allowed to get too dry at the roots; the moss about them should always be kept a little damp, for the stems and leaves are very apt to shrivel if kept too dry, and this often causes them to lose their bottom leaves. . Moreover, they require but a short season of rest. Those which are growing on blocks will require more water than those which are in pots or baskets, and they should be watered about twice or three times a-week if the weather be fine, just to keep them moist, but in dull weather they will not require it so often. Water should be poured over the paths and walks every fine morning, with a view to create a moist atmosphere, but the moisture in the house must be regulated according to the weather outside— a very important point to be attended to. If the weather be dull outside, the house inside must be kept rather dry. The glass and roof should always be perfectly clean, so that the 14 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL, plants at this season may have full light and sun. It is my practice, as soon as the season of rest commences, to wash every piece of glass in the house, and also the woodwork. TREATMENT OF NEWLY-IMPORTED PLANTS. EN unpacked these should have every leaf and bulb sponged over, and all the decayed parts removed. There are many insects that harbour about them, such as the cockroach, and different kinds of scale, which are great pests. When clean they should be laid on dry moss and placed in some part of the Orchid house, where they are shaded from the sun. After a week or two, pot them, or put them on blocks. Water must be given very sparingly at first, as it is liable to rot them; too much of either light, heat, or moisture at first, is very injurious. The moss or peat should be gradually moistened, and when they begin to grow and make roots, they should be potted, or put on blocks or in baskets, but care should be taken not to have the pots too large, over-potting being dangerous. As soon as the plants begin to grow, those which come from the hotter parts of India should be put at the warmest end of the house, but they should not have too much moisture when first starting into growth: those which come from the more temperate regions should be kept in the coolest part of the house, and they should not be allowed to stand under drip, as this frequently rots the young shoots as soon as they appear. Such plants as the species of Vanda, Saccolabium, Aerides, Angracum, Phalaenopsis, &e., I place so that the heart or crown hangs downwards, in order that no water may lodge TREATMENT OF PLANTS IN BLOOM. 15 about them. They should hang for about a fortnight, and may afterwards be put on blocks or baskets with moss; but they must have but little water until they begin to grow, and make new roots, after which they may be treated in the same manner as established plants. This is much the safest mde of treating these valuable Orchids on their first arrival in this country. TREATMENT OF PLANTS IN BLOOM. HERE are many Orchids that may be removed when in flower to a much cooler house than that in which ae they are grown, or even to a warm sitting-room. The advantage of keeping the plants during their period of flowering in a cool and dry atmosphere, rather than, as is frequently the case, in a hot and moist house, is, that in the former case the flowers last much longer than they do when retained in the warmer and moister atmosphere. Perhaps there are not many cultivators who have studied this point more than myself, and I have never found the plants to be injured by this treatment. Some imagine that if they are put in a cool place they will suffer damage ; but this has not occurred in my experience. During the time they are in a room, the temperature should not be below 50° at night ; the room should be kept quite dry; and before they are removed from the stove they should be put at the coolest end of it; or if there are two houses, those that are in the hottest should be moved to the coolest for a few days before being taken into the room, and they should be allowed to get nearly dry, and should receive but very little water—only enough to keep the roots moist. 16 ORCHID-GROWER’S MANUAL. The flowers should not in any case be wetted. This is a very important point. The following are a few of those which I have tried in a sitting-room during the months of May, June, July, and August. I have kept Saccolabium guttatum in this way for five weeks, and Aerides affine for the same time.