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en EDWARD W. BURT
BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS :

President Massachusetts Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association, 1912, 1913, 1915.
Official Organizer National Shoe Retailers’ Associati
National Councilor United States Chamber of Commerce, 1913.
Chairman Industrial Bureau, Lynn Chamber of Commerce, 1914.
Honorary Member Eight Retail Shoe Merchants’ Associations.
Charter Member Advertising Vigilance Association.
President Lynn Business Men’s Association, 1915.

President E. W. Burt & Co., Inc., Shoe Manufacturers, Retailers, Founder,
Grippertown, Massachusetts.

Firet Vice-President Lynn Chamber of Commerce, 1917.

 
 

 

THE SHOE-CRAFT

ITS ORGANIZATION

BY

EDWARD WILLIARD BURT

opp

PROPERTY OF Ligkaic,
WEY Yary tt geraay
INDUS THis ¢ Cae

o ae. ay
CORNELL, ee
BOSTON
THE EVERETT PRESS
1917
fr.

 

 
Copyright 1917
by
E. W. BURT
FOREWORD

Te TIME HAS COME FOR A NEW BRAND OF
CO-OPERATION, A NEW SPIRIT IN THE ENTIRE
INDUSTRY,—A BRINGING TOGETHER OF MEN
OF SIMILAR WORKS THE BETTER TO KNOW
AND LEARN THEIR BUSINESS, TO STAND-
ARDIZE, TO CO-OPERATE, TO SIMPLIFY THE
PROBLEMS OF MERCHANDIZING, AND FACILI-
TATE PRODUCTION AND DISTRIBUTION OF
SHOES,—TO THE END THAT THE PUBLIC
MAY BE THE ULTIMATE GAINER.
CONTENTS

Chapter Page

I. History or Boots anp SHOES IN EarRLy Days 7

II. MacHiInery AND THE DEVELOPMENT OF INDUS-

MRUES! saci dui tra God are eeadlesas avila Sea glaueasun deters 15

III. CapiraL anp THE WaCE QUESTION ......... 25

IV. RELATION oF EMPLOYER TO EMPLOYE ..... 49

V: LaBor CONTROVERSIES ...........-0220055 59

VI. Lapor ORGANIZATIONS ..........--.2-000- 63

VII. OrcANIzATION OF SHOE MANUFACTURERS .... 83

VIII. ORGANIZATION OF SHOE RETAILERS ......... 91
IX. OrcanizaTion oF THE NATIONAL SHOE ReE-

TAILERS’ ASSOCIATION .............---- 103

X. Appress By E. W. Burt .................. 111

XI. THRouGH THE ASSOCIATION TO THE PuBLIc 119

XII. A “Union Carp” oF THE EIGHTEENTH CEN-

TURE YS oo dsc costes ccn en aed be alee es hea 125
APPENDICES aso) i825 Ge eee eee eee 127

I. ConstTITUTION oF THE MAssAcHUSETTS RETAIL
SHoE MERCHANTS’ ASSOCIATION ........ 127

II. Constirution oF THE NaTionaL SHOE ReE-
TAILERS ASSOCIATION ..........0000005 131

TI]. PARLIAMENTARY Law .................00. 138
 

 

eet wei

TO THE MAN WHO BELIEVES

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

rt LL big and altruistic movements are criti-
cally judged from the viewpoint: “What
i | is there in it for me?” What the shoe
?| merchant should have as his guide in
association work is something as follows:
mi} “I will not condemn Association work
wees B. \| for not meeting my expectation unless |
personally give some time, thought and diligent effort to
help secure results. I will make my co-operation more
than a name. Co-operation in Association work means
better friendships, a wider acquaintance, broader horizon,
newer ideas and better business. I owe it to myself to aid
in the accomplishment of Association aims.’

It is a very difficult matter for a man to produce specified
reasons why people should join an association, because in
my experience the impossible-to-answer type ‘of question
is raised.

Dr. A. J. Hart, of Cammeyers, New York, says: “What
good will it do me? To the man who believes in As-
sociation only insofar as it benefits him specifically in
dollars and cents, nothing that I will have to say, or can
say, can appeal. Whether the dues of an association are
$1.00 or $10.00 or $100.00 makes no difference. No
money consideration will come back to the owner of a
certificate of membership, but far greater returns are
possible.”

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THE PRINCIPLE OF
ORGANIZATION

%|RGANIZATION is the basis upon which
the economic and commercial life of our
:| Nation is established.

The first principles of the birth of
! our American Government | were founded

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plea a acaminent part in the early history of the Amer-
ican Nation, created by the Puritans and Quakers, who or-
ganized themselves together for free thinking, free actions
and freedom from system of oppression of the Old World.

The early principles of free thought and concerted action
so strongly inherited in the commercial and business life
of the present generation, have crystalized and brought into
existence associations and organizations of the machine
workers, manufacturers, merchants and salesmen in all
lines of trade and civic life, and it is with the intent and
desire to further the purposes and principles of practical
organization that this book is written. In recognition of the
value to the shoe merchant, which has come through par-
ticipation in the work of the Massachusetts Retail Shoe
Merchants Association, of which I have had the honor of
being President, this book is dedicated.

E. W. BURT.
CHAPTER I.

HISTORY OF BOOTS AND SHOES IN EARLY DAYS.

 
   
    
 
 

HE earliest form of protection for the
A é feet was in the nature of sandals. These

;&| we have accurate knowledge of from

‘9 sculptures and paintings of early Egypt;
treasured up in museums, both public and
\| private, in America and abroad. Many
= 23 of these objects of art carry the history of
shoe-making back some three thousand years, even to the
time of Thothmes the Third, who ascended the throne of
Egypt, (according to Wilkinson) 1,495 years before Christ.
The plates show the shoemakers- seated upon low stools
busily engaged in making the style of sandals then worn
in Egypt. One of the workmen is piercing with his awl the
leather thongs at the side of the sole through which the
straps were passed, to hold the sandal to the foot. His
fellow workman is equally busy sewing a shoe and tight-
ening the thong with his teeth, an early method of working.
Above their heads is a row of sandals displayed so as to
attract customers, and at their feet lie several odd tools
somewhat resembling those in use today.

The temperature of the climate made a covered shoe un-
necessary, hence sandals, in all their varied forms, were
used. Those worn by the upper classes, and particularly
those worn by women, were usually pointed and curved up-
ward at the toe, like our modern skates. Various materials
were used; some were made of woven palm leaves and
papyrus stalks; some of leather, cloth-lined and painted
with the figure of a captive. The kind worn by the poorer
classes was made of flat slices of palm leaves lapping over
each other in the centre to form the sole, while a band of
twisted leaves strengthened the edge, and a thong of strong
 

8 THE SHOE CRAFT

fibres was fastened to each side of the instep, connecting
with another passing over the top of the foot, which was
secured to the sole between the great and second toes. This
held the sandal firmly and yet allowed it to be cast off
easily. The Hebrew word Naal means sandal, although
always translated shoe in our Old Testament.

A style of close-laced shoe is shown in the British Mu-
seum. It covers the foot completely and has a thong or
two over the instep for drawing it tightly over the foot.
The sole and upper leather are all in one piece, sewed up
the back and down the front of the foot.

The ancient bas-reliefs at Persepolis and near Babylon
give us some examples of boots and shoes of the Persian
kings and their attendants, in the days of Xerxes and
Darius.

Three styles are worthy of mention. First a half-boot
reaching above the ankle worn only by the attendant in
charge of a chariot is shown on a bas-relief now in the
British Museum, brought from Persepolis. Another style
shows a half-boot reaching to the ankle and secured by a
band tied in front in a knot, the two ends hanging beneath
it. This shoe was generally worn by soldiers of the upper
classes. Another style shows a foot covering, between a
shoe and a sandal, having the lacings broader than usual
and fastened by buttons along the top of the foot.

High boots reaching nearly to the knee, of the same
shape and appearance as those worn by the modern Cos-
sacks, are not uncommon upon these sculptures. Vegetable
sandals, termed Baxa were worn by the lower classes as a
symbol of their humility. These sandals were often deco-
rated with ornaments making them quite expensive.

The changing ideas of the lower classes in sandals is re-
markable. One style is shown of skin turned over the
foot and secured by thongs passing through the sides and
over the toe, crossing each other over the instep and se-
cured around the ankle. Another style leaves the toes en-
tirely uncovered. This sandal was made of pliable leather
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 9

 

secured around the ankle by a tie, while a thong ornamented
by a stud, passed over the instep and between the great and
second toe secured to the sole.

Among the Hebrews red seems to have been a favorite
color for shoes. The Roman Senators wore shoes of a black
color with a crescent of gold or silver on the top of the
foot. The Emperor Aurelian allowed only the women to
wear shoes colored yellow, white or green. The Roman
soldiers when about to attack a fort or on rough marches
wore sandals with long spikes in the sole, and at other times
the soles were covered with heavy nails. The Roman shoes
had various names, designating the position in society of
the wearer. Those worn by the lower classes were called
Solea, Crepida and Pero. The caliga was worn by soldiers
and the cothurnus by hunters and horsemen, as well as by
nobles. Boots worn by Emperors were often richly deco-
rated with real gems, cameos and gold trimmings. The
Grecian ladies wore shoes lined with the fur of animals
whose claws hung down from the top. These boots were
called ocrea.

Early examples in England show a foot covering made
of the hide of some animal, secured by a leather thong.
This made a close warm shoe, adapted to the climate. As
early as the Tenth Century high shoes were worn which
reached nearly to the middle of the legs and were fastened
by lacing in the front. The high shoes of the ancients laced
close down to the toes, but later to the instep only. These
were made of leather fastened with a thong passing through
a fold upon the upper part of the leather, encompassing
the heel and tied upon the instep. Little variety is shown
in this style of shoe. Wooden shoes are mentioned by
Strutt as being worn by the nobility at this period. These
wooden shoes were so called because the soles were made
of wood while leather was used in the upper. Shoes found
in the tomb of Bernard, King of Italy, grandson of Charle-
magne, are described as having soles of wood and upper
parts of red leather, laced together with thongs.
 

10 THE SHOE CRAFT

The Normans wore leather boots and shoes plain in
form, fitting close to the foot, but wide at the ankle. An
ornament consisting of a studded band surrounded the
upper part. These boots were not used by any particular
classes of people. A new idea which was quickly adopted
consisted of lengthening the toes of shoes and bringing
them forward to a point in the form of a scorpion’s tail.
These shoes were called Pigaciae and were worn by all
classes; but the clergy were strongly against this fad and
forbade wearing by members of religious orders. The
kings wore very elaborate footwear, those of Henry II
being of green color with gold bands. Henry VI was
buried in a pair of shoes whose upper part was of cloth
of gold embroidered with pearls, the sole being of cork
covered with the same cloth. These shoes reached to the
ankle, and were fastened with a little button. The effigy
of Henry III in Westminster Abby shows the splendor of
his boots, which are crossed all over with bands of gold
forming diamond shaped spaces, each of which is filled with
the figure of a lion, the royal emblem of England. The
reign of Edward III, was notable for the varied and luxu-
rious costumes and for the elaborate shoes. The greatest
variety of patterns and the richest contrasts of color were
used by the makers.

Shoes worn during the Fourteenth Century had toes with
long points turning inward or outward as desired. The
points became extremely long in the reign of Richard II,
so that walking was most difficult. Then fashion turned
suddenly and the toes became broad. At times fashions be-
came so extreme that laws were passed restraining them.
Edward IV passed a law that any shoemaker who made
boots or shoes with toes exceeding two inches in length
should pay twenty shillings. This had the effect of widen-
ing the toes even to the width of a good twelve inches
which was finally reduced in the reign of Queen Mary to
six inches in width. In the reign of Edward VI a shoe was
worn with a pointed toe, made of velvet throughout with
 

ITS ORGANIZATION ll

a series of long slashes. During the year 1588, the fash-
ionable wore fancy slippers made of velvet, some white,
some green and others yellow. Some Spanish slippers of
this date were made of leather stitched with silk and em-
broidered with gold and silver. In the reign of Charles I,
boots were made of soft, pliable buff-colored Spanish
leather. They were very large and wide at the top, causing
the wearer to stride when walking. The tops were capable
of being turned over beneath the knee.

At the time of the revolution of 1689 and the reign of
William III, the high jack-boot came into use and the high
quartered, high-heeled and buckled shoe. Over the instep
was a large piece of leather, through which the spur was
attached. These boots were worn by the English Cavalry.
During the reign of George III shoes became lower in the
quarters, and the heel more graceful in appearance, with
both large and small buckles for ornamentation.

About 1790 a change occurred in women’s shoes and
they were made lower in the heel, more like a slipper.
Buckles were worn until about 1700 when they were dis-
carded and shoe-strings took their place.

The shoes worn in Ireland furnish interesting examples
of shoe evolution. The brogue or shoe of the peasants was
made at first of untanned hide and later of tanned leather,
without linings, similar to the brogans of the present day.
The brogue was made two ways, single, with sole and upper
only, and double, which had a welt between the sole and
upper, making it much stronger. In later years an inner-
sole was used more like the welt shoes of today. In
making the brogue, the uppers and soles were held to-
gether by thongs, instead of hemp threads, and no lasts
were used. In constructing this shoe the upper leather and
side were sewed together and then turned inside out, and
the upper rubbed down by an iron and the shoe placed
before a fire to dry. The heel was made of shavings
cemented together with paste and dried under the sun, cut
the required size and sewed to the shoe and covered with
 

12 THE SHOE CRAFT

a thin layer of leather driven on by pegs. The brogue was
rubbed over with tallow, similar to the present method of
treeing boots. The brogue was made a number of sizes
too large for the foot and the space was filled up with hay
or straw. These brogues being heavy, were most suitable
for field labor.

When the manufacture of boots and shoes began as a
means of livelihood it is almost impossible to say, but ac-
cording to Rasseline, shoemaker’s shops existed in Egypt
at a very early period. In the olden days the bootmaker
made all the shoe from start to finish, cutting the paper
pattern, linings of cloth, outsides of leather, stitching the
upper entirely by hand with the aid of awl and needle, and
then lasting the boot and sewing on the sole, heel, and all
other parts. If a workman made a pair of boots in a day
he did well.

The great change in the making of boots and shoes came
with the invention of the learned Dr. Turnbull of a new
process of tanning leather for tops of boots and shoes.
A description of his method has been given by J. Sparkes
Hall in his interesting “Book of the Feet.”

SKINS AND THEIR TANNAGE.

The skin of animals is composed of two parts, the corium
and the cuticle. The former is the true skin, being a tissue
of delicate fibres crossing each other in all directions
thickly interwoven towards the surface. This tissue has a
great number of conical channels the ends of which termin-
ate at the external surface of the skin. These channels,
placed obliquely contain nerves. The cuticle or exterior
covering, is an insensible membrane, devoid of blood-
vessels.

The process of tanning consists in the combination of the
gelatinous substance of which the skin is composed, and the
tannic acid, this having a strong chemical affinity and the
skin is converted into leather when the acid is applied to
the gelatinous fibre. The length of time required to tan
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 13

leather arises from the difficulty in bringing the acid into
contact with the gelatinous tissue and many methods have
been tried to shorten the process. In preparing skins for
the tan pit, they are steeped for some time in a solution of
lime to remove the hair. This lime has the effect of re-
moving a portion of the gelatinous substance also, which
prevents it from rapidly combining with the tannic acid,
and the pores of the skin are so filled with lime that the
tanning process is not as rapid as it otherwise would be.
The method of using lime gave way to Dr. Turnbull’s dis-
covery of sugar and sawdust. The action of sugar and
pyroxalic is so quick that the skins rapidly absorb the
tannic acid,—this method produces much better results.

To Sequin, a French chemist, belongs the discovery of a
property in nutgalls of combining with the albumen and
gelatine of skins. Tannier exists in the bark of nearly all
perennial trees and especially that part of the bark next
to the fibre. The bark, leaves, and fruit of the oak tree
contain a larger amount of tannier than any other tree in
America and are usually gathered during the months of
May and July. The Spanish Oaks are the most valuable
and useful for tanning purposes.

The secret of tanning lies in the removal of the hair from
the skin without injury and also rendering the skin insol-
uble in water and yet flexible.

EarRLy AMERICAN FOOTWEAR.

The Indian Moccasin is the foot covering worn by the
aborigines of America and it is the most: practical and
comfortable footwear made for man. The moccasin is
usually made of deer skin, tanned and smoked over a
camp fire by the Indians. Moccasins are usually made in
two pieces which come below the ankle bone, and some-
times side pieces are put in with lacings in the front. In
measuring a foot for the length, the Indian will break off
a stick and measure the foot from toe te heel, which is all
the measurement he requires to give the exact size.
 

14 THE SHOE CRAFT

Many moccasins are decorated with bird heads, feathers,
beads and porcupine quills, dyed with juices and colors.
Moccasins have no extra sole attached. For tramping in
the woods, no shoes are more comfortable or more silent
than the moccasin.

The early settlers and colonists were obliged to make
their own shoes from leather imported from England, but
as the population increased, tanneries were established in
some of the large towns. The fashion before the Revolu-
tion did not allow a hired man or woman to wear boots or
shoes as fine as calf-skin, but they wore boots made of
coarse neat’s leather.

The English Colonists wore shoes or pumps with silver
buckles of various sizes, knee breeches and silk stockings.
The Hessian Boot was introduced into the states about the
year 1800. These boots were made with a seam in the back
and were worn over pantaloons fastened around the ankle
with ribbons.

The introduction of modern machinery increased the
output of shoes and gave employment to thousands of men
and women. There are over thirteen hundred shoe manu-
facturers in the United States today with factory wage
scales from $5 a week to $75.00 a week. The major part
of the work is done on modern machines. Large factories
turn our from 5,000 to 75,000 pair a day on lasts of all
shapes and styles. Leather and materials of the most del-
icate fabrics are used and prices range from $1.00 up to
$25.00 or more per pair.

The factories of today are systematized to produce the
greatest number of pairs at the smallest cost. Many man-
ufacturers operate their factories on a margin of a few
cents per pair profit, according to the grades and manner
of distribution.

The factory system has made possible, the organization
of the shoe worker, the shoe manufacturer and finally the
shoe merchant and the salesmen in his enploy—each in the
division in which he works and all dedicated to the advance-
ment of service to the public.
GaP CaP GeP GaeP Sepp

CHAPTER IL.

MACHINERY AND THE DEVELOPMENT. OF INDUSTRIES.

HE direct influence of machinery on skilled
labor is felt in two ways: first, by the dis-
placement of hand labor; and second, by
the increase in production and employ-
ment of machine labor. In considering
the economic influence of machinery, wa
: must deal with labor abstractly. Business
men of today acknowledge, without a question of doubt, the
permanent and lasting effects of the application of ma-
chinery to industrial development. The advantages, however,
are not in some cases consistent with the temporary displace-
ment of a certain amount of labor. From practical experi-
ences and study of existing conditions, accurate information
has been secured, showing the result of the introduction of
certain machines which have brought about the so-called
“displacement of labor,” in cases where the perfection of
machinery has produced faster than the consumption.

In the manufacture of agricultural implements new
machinery has, in some instances, displaced fully fifty per
cent. of the manual labor formerly employed. It is found
that in a large agricultural implement factory 600 laborers
produce as much as did 2,145 laborers before the intro-
duction of the present machinery. In a gun factory one
man used to make the pieces of one gun in a day, and now
three men make the parts of 150 guns in a day. In the
manufacture of small arms, where one man made the stock
for one gun in ten hours three men, by the use of power and
machinery, can turn out and fit from 125 to 150 stocks in the
same amount of time. Here is a displacement of forty-four
men in one operation.

  

3EE> > 2TP>P>>>-a>> a
<n Ir?
 

16 THE SHOE CRAFT

The manufacture of boots and shoes shows some remark-
able facts in connection with the displacement of hand
labor. One of the largest factories in Massachusetts em-
ploys 5,000 hands making a number of boots and shoes that
20,000 workmen could not have produced by old time
methods in the same time.

In our Lynn factory one workman on a lasting machine
can last 150 pairs of women’s shoes in eight hours, against
15 pairs by the hand method. The Goodyear welting ma-
chine can sew 250 pairs of Goodyear welt shoes in one day,
against 10 pairs by hand. In other words, it takes one man
25 days to do the same work that a machine will do in one
day. The McKay sewing machine shows another striking
example, for it can sew 300 pairs of shoes in one day, while
a man can sew only 10 pairs.

Ordinarily the greatest efficiency is shown in the produc-
tion of the medium grade shoes. The following data show
comparisons between hand and machine work in the making
of shoe-uppers, and the results given are considered as
nearly correct as it is possible to make them. The first part
taken is in sewing back seams of quarters by machines which
have taken the place of the hand awl, needle, thimble, and
clamp. On 100 pairs of women’s kid button shoes the work
was accomplished in 50 minutes with a machine, against 33
hours and 20 minutes with the hand method, or but one-
fortieth of the time required by hand; while in a man’s
medium grade shoe it was done in one hour by machine,
against twenty-five hours by hand method, a ratio of about
25 to 1 in favor of the machine.

In making buttonholes in women’s kid shoes it required
175 hours to do a certain amount of work by hand, against
5 hours by a machine, a ratio of 35 to 1. In the work of
sewing vamps to quarters great efficiency is shown. In this
case it requires only 2 hours and 48 seconds to do a certain
amount of work on the machine, against 80 hours by hand,
a ratio of 40 to 1. The operation of cutting inner soles and
outer soles varies somewhat. The greatest contrast in this
operation is shown in the case of women’s kid turned shoes
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 17

 

in which, by the aid of the stripping knife, sole-cutting ma-
chine, and dies, the work was accomplished in 1.6 minutes
against 5 hours under the hand method, a ratio of 188 to 1
in favor of the machine.

So far as the qualities of machine and hand-made shoes
are concerned, the machine-made shoes of the present day
are practically as good and often better than the hand-made
shoes of thirty years ago, while for style and workmanship
they are far superior to the hand-made product being more
uniform in appearance and of better style.

By comparing the above figures it is seen that machinery:
in the manufacture of boots and shoes has displaced em-
ployees in the proportion of 6 to 1, while the cost of pro-
duction has been reduced at least one-half. In consequence’
of the above results, many laborers have condemned the
machine, saying that it displaces labor. They claim that it
exhausts the physical powers of the worker and is detri-
mental to health and morals, degrading man and transform-
ing him into a machine himself, instead of increasing his
physical efficiency, as well as lowering his average level of
wages, for the benefit of the employers only.

The Bureau of Labor of New York in 1894 echoed the
complaints of the workman who said machinery displaced
labor by 15 per cent. among carpenters, 20 per cent.
among cutters, 30 per cent. among shirtmakers, and so on,
but their figures were based on the number of laborers em-
ployed just before and after the invention of machines, tak-
ing no account of the great increase of labor that has re-
sulted from the decline in price and the increased demand
for the product, due to inventions of new machinery.

A study of political economy clearly shows that ma-
chinery has not displaced labor. The study of statistics
shows that the total number of persons engaged in manu-
facturing, far from having diminished, has steadily in-
creased year by year, and the total wages paid to laborers
have advanced, and that the decline in prices of manu-
factured goods is of great advantage to the consumers, in-
cluding the workmen themselves. These facts are indis-
 

18 THE SHOE CRAFT

putable. The great benefits of production by machinery
can be made profitable only by extensive public use. If a
community could purchase but 15 pairs of shoes a year, it
would be much more profitable to have the shoes made by
hand. True economy in manufacturing lies in making a
hundred thousand pairs. It consists not in making the old
product as a less expense, and with less labor, but in making
a much larger product with the same labor.

Compare the greatest countries of the world, the United
States and Great Britain, which are the largest users of
machinery, with countries where machines are not used.
The superiority is at once apparent, not only because of the
increased production, but because of the great army of
workers who have obtained employment through the mar-
vellous inventions which have created new industries, such
as photography, electricity, telegraphy, automobiles, and
the typewriter, giving much more work and employment
than they have taken away. Social evolution must go on.
Industry and commercial prosperity are inseparable from
machinery and large factories, which make low-cost pro-
duction possible, and the low price of the product, which
the consumer seeks first of all, is one of the chief aims and
objects of economic civilization.

The wage-earners and economists must look to concen-
tration and machinery to assure a future for this country.
The machine has infinite force and great rapidity of move-
ment as well as a true uniformity and precision which the
hand and eye can never attain. For the production of low-
priced articles in great quantities and with rapidity it has
great advantages and a pronounced superiority. The ablest
manufacturers consider the development of machinery and
the establishing of large factories as the legitimate conse-
quences of free competition to produce volume cheaply, thus
promoting the forward march of civilization. Necessity of
repeated changes is a sure proof of the rapidity of progress,
and the individual who knows how to provide himself with
the best tools and has learned the art of using them has the
greatest chance of success.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 19

The machine is of great advantage to the workmen who
sell their labor, because the rate of salary and wages has
been raised, which enables them to purchase more with the
same amount of money. The workman, instead of bringing
his muscles into play, allows the machine to use its great
and never-tiring strength to do the work, while he becomes
an inspector and operator only. It must be considered a
blessing that the energy of the laborer is not exhausted in
his day’s work, and that his mind is free to think. Although
the machine may develop his hands and muscles and not
tend to develop the mind, it does not involve deterioration
of the general mental ability. While it is true that in some
cases a laborer may toil at his machine, day in and day out,
for perhaps a large number of years, to find that his am-
bition and energy have gone and he becomes, as it were, a
part of a machine, a controlling power that makes it go, so
that he thinks only of doing mechanically so much work
each day, and when night comes drags himself home worn
out, only to begin his work again on the following day, yet
the fact remains that on the whole machines have proven of
great benefit to the health of the worker. For one thing, as
more room is required the ceilings of factories have become
higher and hygienic conditions have been improved, while
more light is required to operate the machines, which means
larger windows and more sunlight.

The great influence of machinery in the history of man is
in giving steady employment, and that is the very ethical
problem of our existence. The most harmful condition ~
which can prevail is a lack of knowledge needed to help a_.
man to earn a living. To be able to do one’s work
eficiently is as important in life as ethics and practical
religion. Every man should seek to broaden all of his
faculties, striving to the best of his ability to attain per-
fection in his work and to develop his love of beauty, art,
science, and all that ennobles life; and this can be largely
accomplished by the use of inventions which are a result of
human ingenuity and brains.
 

20 THE SHOE CRAFT

The industrial evolution of the United States and the
development of the factory system began about the end of
the Colonial period and at the beginning of Constitutional
Government, in the year 1789.

At first it was not easy to introduce a new invention for
the manufacture of commodities. The old-time methods
which had been in use for years were slow to be discarded.
Although the manufacturer himself could see the great
possibilities of new and improved machinery, the workman
feared its introduction into the workshop, believing that it
meant the loss of labor, and finally his position.

In the early history of the Colonies the slow hand-methods
of spinning were in use until about the year 1638, when a
little band of settlers came from Yorkshire, England,
settling in the town of Rowly, Massachusetts. Here, after
much labor and difficulty, they built and operated the first
woolen mill, which was the foundation of the woolen in-
dustries in America. At that time there was a heavy export-
duty from England of three shillings and four pence on
every yard of woolen broadcloth, but this proved of benefit
to the Colonies, as it only helped to encourage the raising
of sheep for wool, which England had also forbidden to
be exported.

In 1656 the Massachusetts General Court ordered the
people of the towns to turn their attention to weaving and
spinning, and every effort was made to increase and stimu-
late the woolen industry and home manufacturing. Woolen
factories were started in different places, so that by the time
of the adoption of the Constitution large quantities of cloth
were being manufactured. One factory in Connecticut pro-
duced some 5,000 yards of cloth in the year 1789, some of
which sold as high as $5 a yard. It is said that General
Washington visited this factory and was much interested
in the work, expressing approval of the quality of the goods,
even so far as to order a suit made of cloth produced in
that factory. :

The three states of Maryland, Pennsylvania and Virginia
made great efforts to develop and build up textile industries,
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 21

passing laws to encourage the manufacture of woolens, with
such good results that near the close of the seventeenth
century the imports and exports of the states of Virginia and
Maryland were greater than those of all the other Colonies
combined. New Jersey came in for a share of the woolen
manufactured, but not as early as the other States. The cot-
ton-spinning and weaving industries kept pace with the mak-
ing of woolen cloths. Cotton was found to be an indigenous
plant in the Southern Colonies, so Nature gave us the chance
for the utilization of a fibre which is the basis of the great
cotton industry, and its use was early recognized by the
colonists. Cotton was first planted in this country about the
year 1621. The great difficulty which prevented the growth
of the cotton industry as rapidly as the woolen industry was
the attitude of England. In the years before 1760 cotton
cloth in England was made by hand machinery, and this
method was employed by the colonists until about the year
1770. The invention and perfection of spinning and weav-
ing machines in England at once revolutionized the textile
industry. Great care was taken that no machines should
reach America, but the Colonists, seeing the great strides
that had been made in England on account of these in-
ventions, determined to secure some machines for them-
selves, .

The Legislature of Massachusetts encouraged machinery
for carding and weaving by giving two men two hundred
pounds sterling to enable them to build machines to card
and spin sheeps wool as well as cotton wool.

These machines, which included the Arkwright devices,
were built, and in all probability were the first used in this
country.

The first factory which could be called a textile factory
was built at Beverly, Massachusetts, in 1873, and the legis-
lature aided the industry by loans of money. But the enter-
prise did not prove a success and it was closed shortly after
starting. To the State of Rhode Island belongs the credit
of operating the first factory in which perfected machinery,
 

22 THE SHOE CRAFT

patterned after the English designs, were used. This factory
was built by Samuel Slater in 1790. Carroll D. Wright,
LL.D., in his interesting book on Industrial Evolution of
the United States, gives the story of Slater’s trials and hard-
ships in introducing his ideas into the United States.

“At the age of fourteen he became an apprentice to a Mr.
Strutt, a manufacture of cotton machinery in England, and
Slater had every opportunity to master the details of the
construction of cotton machinery then used in England.
Near the close of his term he happened to see a notice in an
American newspaper that efforts were being made to secure
cotton machinery in the United States, and that large prices
were offered for machines. Slater decided to visit America,
and he perfected his knowledge so that he could construct
machinery from memory and thus bring over in his head
what he could not take in plans or models. Landing in
America in 1790, he made arrangements with parties at
Pawtucket for constructing his machines, with three cards
drawing and roving, together with seventy-two spindles,
which were the first of the kind ever operated in America.”

In. 1794 Eli Whitney invented a machine for separating
the seeds from cotton fibres. This machine was called the
cotton gin. This was the means of development of cotton-
raising in the South, which took great strides at once, aided
by the success of the power loom. Factories began to spring
up along the streams of New England, and also of the
Middle States. In 1831 there were 801 cotton factories in
the whole country; in 1840 there were 1,240; and in 1860
there were 2,109. The capital invested in the cotton in-
dustry was $40,612,984 in 1831, while in 1860 it had in-
creased to over $98,000,000. The total value of the products
of American industries had reached $1,885,861,676 in 1860.
Of this, $115,681,774 was in all kinds of cotton goods, and
the total value of boots and shoes produced was about
$91,000,000.

During these years of rapid growth of industries the
American men of brains were producing inventions by the
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 23

hundreds. New methods of reducing the cost and shortening
the time of manufacturing were constantly being introduced
and used in various factories with success. In 1857 there
were 2,900 patents issued; in the next year 3,710; and in
1860 the number amounted to 4,819. These patents covered
improvements and new devices for producing cloth, boots
and shoes, air heating stoves, musical instruments, sewing
machines, firearms, printing presses, and hundreds of others.
There were over 1,000,000 patents issued up to the year
1916.

The manufacture of iron and steel became of much im-
portance after the year 1860, there being 652 factories at
that time engaged in making pig and blooms and rolled
steel. The capital increased from 48 millions to 414
millions in 1890. The formation of larger factories and
better methods of manufacture had the result of reducing
the cost of manufacturing, and consegeuntly of increasing
production. The value of products increased from 207
millions in 1870 to nearly 300 millions in 1880—about 45
per cent. Bessemer steel was first made in the United
States in 1867, and so rapid was the growth of the steel
industry that the production in 1890 out-distanced that of
Great Britain by 1,300,000 tons. The principal cause of the
rapid growth of iron manufacture was the large numbers
of railroads that were built by the United States. Another
reason has been the demand for the wire nail, which was
invented in the year 1884. So great had been this demand
that the production in 1890 was eight million kegs.

Among other inventions of much importance in the ex-
pansion of business should be mentioned the typewriter of
the year 1873. The development of the printing industry
also has been very rapid. In 1860 about 1,600 establish-
ments were in existense which increased to 16,000 in 1890.
These and other industries show the great energy and enter-
prise of the people of the United States and the ambition to
meet the home demand and to supply the markets of the
world.
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CHAPTER III.

CAPITAL AND THE WAGE QUESTION.

HE wide contrast between great wealth and
poverty of recent years leads one to be-

Y\the poor, poorer. In large cities the
disparity between the capitalist and the
wage-earner increases with each advanc-
s i 2. \J ing age, apparently proving that progress
increases the advantages of capital as compared with those
of labor. Differences in accumulated wealth of individual
people prove nothing about the ratio of income. There
will always be a class of people who will be at the zero
point in the matter of accumulated wealth. Some men
gamble, speculate, and drink, spending their income as fast
as made; others are so shiftless and indifferent, that they
refuse to work so long as they have money in their
pockets; while others save and economize, laying up their
wealth and investing it in paying enterprises.

If all the wealth in the country were evenly divided to-
day, it would be but a short time before some men would
have nothing and others would have increased their hold-
ings. The more capital there is in the community, the
greater the differences are sure to be. A difference in in-
come does not effect the results. A man who has saved
nothing may have an income larger than a man who has
saved hundreds of dollars. The wealth of different classes
in a community is measured by their expenditure.

Results show that the proportion of enjoyment, comforts,
and wealth which goes to labor is becoming larger in the
same proportion as that which accrues to capital. An in-
creased number of workmen means increased competition
for employment, forcing it gradually downwards; so in-

 
 

26 THE SHOE CRAFT

creased accumlation of capital means increased competition
and demand for the services of the laborer, forcing the in-
come of the capitalist downward and that of the laborer
upward.

Adam Smith observes: “It is not the actual greatness of
natural wealth, but its continued increase, which occasions a
rise in the wages of labor.” It is not, accordingly, the
countries of greatest wealth, but the most thriving—those
which are accumulating wealth fastest—where wages of
labor are highest. The more circulating capital there is en-
gaged in a trade, the higher ceteris paribus wages will be.
Compare the conditions of wages in old and in new
countries. The former have large amounts of capital, while
the latter settled by the same kind of men, have had com-
paratively smaller amounts of capital until recent years.
According to the wage-fund theory, wages should be higher
in the old countries and low in the new, but facts show that
it is the new country, with quickly turning capital, that pays
the highest wages. The only reason for this seems to be in
the superior utilization of the capital by the new country
where business is active and profits are large, just as the
concern that turns its capital over the greatest number of
times in a year makes the most profit. Little of the capital
is tied up in merchandise upon which interest must be paid
out with no returns, and discounts are secured. The point is
illustrated by a commercial crisis. Before the panic there is
a large amount of unused products to be disposed of. Every-
thing looks favorable for prosperity to the workman and
high wages, but the great amount of these commodities is an
obstacle to their utilization. Manufacturers are afraid to
continue their production, the demand for labor is lessened,
and wages fall; but when the stock of goods is diminshed,
the demand causes a renewal of business, and the laborer
gains employment and a share in the product. He receives
large payments and saves some of it until the next period of
production has advanced so far that goods produced during
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 27

that period are at his disposal. He can then get his real
wages out of current products.

Hence it is seen that industry is not always limited by in-
vested capital. If economists say that wages are limited by
capital and will go as high as the amount of accumulations
will permit, the results of modern industry do not show this
to be the case. Many modern teachers of economics state
that wages are kept up by the competition of a number of
individual capitalists, which reduces profits to a minimum,
compelling them to give the laborer as large a share of his
products as is possible in industrial enterprises. The ac-
tivity of accumulated capital is such that the laborer secures
to a large extent the benefits of modern improvements, and
the manufacturer assumes the risk and must content himself
with an uncertain margin of profit.

The cost of labor to the manufacturer is measured by ~..~/
piece work, and the return or value for his labor which the-~*
laborer receives is measured by the hours that he can work
by the day or year and by his own personal skill and ability.

It does not always follow that the employer will hire his
help by the piece or that the laborer will prefer to be paid
by the day. This usually depends upon the kind of em-
ployment. Time work usually prevails in agriculture, in
personal services, in the higher grades of mechanical work,
and often in certain departments of shoe factories. In shoe-
making in large factories all foremen are employed by the
day or week, their time being devoted to superintending the
work of others. Very often in the stitching of shoes, where
several small parts are done by one person, time work
proves of the greatest advantage to both the laborer and the —
employer. Many cutters on high-grade leather are em-
ployed on time work. When business is above normal, the |
employer usually prefers to hire the laborer on time work, ,’
because less wages will be earned than by piece work,’
When there is little competition, the employer is usuall
inclined to get the most that is possible out of the laborer,
 

28 THE SHOE CRAFT

and accordingly pays him such low wages that he is able to
buy only the bare necessities of life. This was one of the
fundamental causes of the combinations of workmen into-
unions.

An illustration of piece work and of time work may be
seen in a certain shoe factory where a workman runs a
machine for stitching shoes. The piece price on every pair
of shoes stitched is 214c. a pair, but the workman may be
hired at a weekly salary of $20 or $25 throughout the year.
When business is active the workman stitches 200 pairs of
shoes a day which would enable him to earn about $50 a
week on piece work, whereas he receives only $25 a week
on time work. But on the other hand, when business is
quiet the workman stitches 100 pairs a day which would
enable him to earn only $15 a week on piece work.

These conditions show that the piece price is at times
advantageous to the workman and at other times to the
employer. In lines of business in which slack times are rare
piece work is the best for the workman, whereas if quiet
seasons are to occur, time work is the more desirable. Un-
der the system of time work the workman has no incentive
to work rapidly and the foreman’s energy is devoted to keep-
ing the work up to the capacity of the factory. On the
piece-work system, where the workman is paid by the pound,
or yard, or, in the case of shoes, by the number of pairs of
heels attached, or soles laid, or edges trimmed, or whatever
it may be, he has a greater incentive to work, as the more
goods he turns out the more wages he can earn. Therein
lies the danger of injuring the workmanship of the product,
and the foreman has to insist upon quality, not quantity.
In textile weaving, where the grades of work are simple, the
piece system is used. In making machinery of all kinds,
where accuracy is required up to the thousandth part of an
inch, the workman must be given every incentive to do the
work to the best of his ability, and time work is used.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 29

 

The efficiency of laborers varies greatly in different
countries. F. A. Walker, in his book, “Political Economy,”
says that in comparing the cost of constructing railroads in
India and in England it was found that the Indian laborer
received but 4’2d. to 6d. a day and the English laborer re-
ceived 3s. to 3s. 6d. a day, while the sub-contracts in two
countries are never let at the same prices. The English
cotton spinner is paid as many shillings as the East India
spinner gets pence, yet the cotton cloth of English undersells
that of India in Indian markets. Comparing England and
Russia it is found that a weaver in the former country tends
from two to three times as many looms as in the latter, the
English looms moving, moreover, at a higher rate of speed.
It has been shown that the working capacity of the English-
man is about equal to that of three Frenchmen, but none of
them averages so high as the American in respect to strength,
intelligence, or ability to use machinery.

The reasons why some countries maintain a higher wage-
rate than others are not unlike the causes by which some men
in the same country maintain a higher wage-rate than others.
China is a very inferior country compared with America,
because of the absence of agricultural machinery, railroads,
and modern improvements. There they rely almost ex-
clusively on human labor, and population is packed in cities
and along canals and rivers, while large tracts of country
which, with means of transportation, would be populated
with farms, are left in solitude and desolation. Hence the
earnings are lower and the enjoyments less than in America.
Yet with the Chinese nothing is wasted in human con-
sumption. Their labor is directly bestowed on the pro-
duction of food and drink and less on machinery and build-
ings, and a wage very much lower produces a degree of com-
fort only a little lower than is known in Europe or America.
In other words, the difference in comfort is far less than the
difference in the money used in paying the wages.
 

30 THE SHOE CRAFT

What is the definition of the word “labor,” or the “means
of subsistence?” Not all efforts are put forth directly for
the means of subsistence. Two men may be fishing. One
sportsman is catching fish for his own repast, and as food
is a means of sustaining life, he is putting forth his efforts
directly to obtain means of subsistence. Yet this is not
labor, but merely sport or play. On the other hand, in a
boat is a man who is fishing for business, who does not in-
tend to eat the fish he catches, but to sell it. To him the
act of fishing is labor. Hence it can be seen that effort put
forth to obtain means of subsistence is not always labor, and
labor is not always effort put forth to obtain means of sub-
sistence. It is not always necessary to sell one’s service or
products to make effort labor. A farmer labors when he
works to build a barn or a stone wall, which he expects
never to sell. Labor must have a motive of necessity, and is
usually combined with physical exertion, but a college man
who plays football does not labor, though he combines great
physical strength and exertion with the hope of winning a
victory. A burglar who breaks into a house to steal may
exert much strength with the hope of gain, but he does not
labor, for crime cannot involve toil as labor; but when the
burglar goes to prison, though he works without hope of
gain, that is labor. Will, in his “Political Economy,” leaves
the definition of the word labor obscure. He says that it is
either bodily or mental, muscular or nervous, and that it is
necessary to include in the idea not only the exertion itself
but all feelings of a disagreeable kind, as well as all bodily
inconveniences resulting from the employment of one’s
muscles in a particular occupation. He does not state
whether a woodchopper labors if his chopping is a pleasure,
and whether playing is laboring. McCulloch defines labor
“as any sort of operation, whether performed by man, the
lower animals, or machines, that tends to bring about the
desired results,” but this confounds men with machines.
The best way to define the meaning of the word “labor” is
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 31

 

to look at the end of the operation. Labor is human action
of which the end is some good external to itself. When-
ever the action in itself gives reward to the agent, it is not
labor, as with recreation, hunting, eating, and football.
Conversely, when the reward is not in the action itself, this
is labor, as in tilling the land. The best way to classify
labor is according to the object, purpose, or end of a par-
ticular operation. Three divisions can be made: First, in-
dustrial, or labor performed on agriculture, manufacture,
and commerce; second, public, or labor bestowed on civil
and military service in all its forms; third, ministerial, or
labor spent by the clergy, teachers, the legal profession,
musicians, actors and lawyers.

Labor may be employed to destroy as well as produce.
In tearing down a building for the erection of a new one
labor is employed for destruction. The word labor often
has the meaning of “servile effort.” Effort that is put forth
for the intrinsic pleasure of the effort, such as art, science,
sport, crime, or religion cannot be classed as labor. But
work put forth by the convict or laborer through constraint
or necessity is labor. The economic reason why labor can-
not in most cases consist of work which it is a pleasure to
perform is because most tasks required to be performed for
the support of man are not considered a pleasure; and
further, because those who perform the labor cannot get the
pleasure which labor is designed to yield, as with a miner
who digs gems for other people’s pleasure; and lastly, if all
labor were a pleasure in itself, labor capacity would waste
itself on the first labor that offered, whereas labor power
must be economized and saved for that kind of work which
social demand requires. This can be determined only by
the willingness of those who are in need to pay for the effort
expended. Hence the economic use of labor-power re-
quires that all labor performed shall be paid for, because
it is needed.
 

32 THE SHOE CRAFT

The ultimate economic necessity that labor shall be irk-
some arises in the necessity of economizing human effort.
For with nearly all the people in the world working during
their waking hours, with all economic laws: making for
equality in distribution of consumable commodities, and
with all human effort economized by being expended only
where it is paid for, there is still none too large a supply of
commodities in the world. It does not always follow that
necessity for labor means that the strong shall rule over the
weak, for nature has ordained that mankind shall live by
rendering mutual service to each other, including good as
well as painful service. Loathsome and contagious diseases
must be treated at the risk of one’s life. The dead must be
buried, the sick, insane, and paupers cared for. To per-
form these tasks, industry and labor must be organized and
divided so that individuals can continue in one line until
the purpose of society is accomplished.

The same particle of iron cannot at the same time be a
part of the driving wheel and a tube in the boiler. If trans-
ferred from one place to the other, a wheel breaks or the
boiler bursts. So in labor. A man cannot at the same time
be a shoemaker, school teacher, doctor and lawyer. But
while the organization of industry requires him to do one
thing in order to be productive to society, his mind requires
that he shall find pleasure in changing from one thing to
another. Hence a man divides his time into business hours
and hours of leisure and pleasure. The sale of our time
to others, who become entitled to a claim upon acts which
would be unwelcome or disagreeable if we did not receive
pay for them, is what is generally understood by labor. .
Labor, then, is the exchange for the means of subsistence
which a man or woman makes in his or her effort.

Low-grade labor is cheap in some employments but very
high in others. Where work requires physical strength only,
the man who receives low wages per day is so much below
the standard that his labor is costly per unit of product. In
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 33

work where mental ability and brains are required, the in-
efficiency of so-called cheap labor is even more apparent.
The man of brains, to do his work properly, must have the
proper kind of food, shelter, and travel, to keep his mind
clear and brain in working order. A doctor or lawyer who
can earn only a few dollars a week is not the one you would
employ in serious matters. Cheap labor cannot compete
with dear labor in lines where special skill is required.
Man can be compared to a machine or engine in this respect.
The small ones burn little fuel, and they furnish very little
power. The large ones burn ten times the amount, but the
difference in the work is worth many times that of the little
engine, even if more expense is necessary to run them.

So it is with men. There are some whose efficiency is ob-
tained with small consumption, whose work requires neither
brains nor exceptional skill. Such men will always remain
poor because the best commercial saving in such lines is ob-
tained by low output and low consumption. Again there
are men who require a greater amount of food and a diver-
sity of enjoyment. These men go into lines of work where
efficiency is obtained by moderate consumption. Finally,
there are a few men whose economy is greater still and
whose power can be obtained only by enormous con-
sumption of the products of others, past and present. These
lines mark the difference between riches and poverty. The
people who are like the small engine will always be the
ones who receive the small earnings, because their num-
bers are great and the price of their labor is so low that it is
impossible for men with a high standard of living to com-
pete with them in doing work which requires no special
mental qualifications. The high-grade man (comparable
to the large engine) who tries to compete with an increas-
ing number of low-grade men will find himself forced to
the wall. The competition of those who increase their num-
bers instead of shortening their hours will drive the higher
grade men out of some things and up into others.
 

34 THE SHOE CRAFT

 

Let us consider for a moment the popular idea that low
rates of wages are necessary to low cost of production, and
that high rates of wages can be paid only with high cost.
of production.

Now if an employer were to consider the discharge of
some of his workmen during a dull season of the year,
would he retain the workman who earns the greatest wages
by the piece or the one who earns the smallest wages? If
no other question entered into consideration, he would of
course discharge the one who earns the ‘smallest wages.
Every manufacturer knows that the man who does the most
work for the least money is the cheapest laborer. In
manual labor it is the strongest, in mechanical work it is
the one who is the quickest. In the running of a machine it
is the one who makes the least stops.

The real cost of any given article is the quantity of labor
or human effort expended in its production, but on the
other hand an employer may bargain with his employees
and hire workmen by the week as shown before, and have
the same work produced for less money than would be paid
by the piece. In that case low production would result from
low wages paid to skilled laborers. The rate of wages does
not determine the cost of production, for the rates of wages
may be the same in two cotton factories in the same place,
and yet the cost of production will vary so much that one
factory will prosper and the other fail, because the quantity
of product will be different, and the profit and loss of mills
rests chiefly upon the quantity of goods produced. The
reasons for this may be many. In one the machinery may
be old, in the other, new. In one the material may be poor,
and in the other, good. Or the product may be sold too
low in the one, and well sold in the other. In one the goods
may be unsalable, while in the other they may meet the
fashion. In one mill the running expenses may be too great
to allow any profits, while the other may run on economical
lines. Under these various conditions high wages may be
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 35

paid consistently with low cost of production in one factory,
and low wages may be paid, notwithstanding the high cost
of production, in the other. Low rates of wages are not
always essential to low cost of production. A manufacturer
is not always obliged to secure labor at low rates of wages
to make goods cheap, but low wages in general indicate a
high cost of production. The cheapest labor in the end
is the best paid labor. It is the best paid labor applied to
machinery that assures the largest product in proportion to
the capital invested. In the United States the high rate of
wages in money is the result or consequence of the generally
low labor cost of production—that is, of the smaller
quantity of labor by which the production is assured. The
less quantity of labor suffices because of the application of
the most efficient machinery.

At an average of 200 pounds per head in the United
States, we find that the equivalent of one man’s work for one
year, divided between the coal mine and the iron furnace,
suffices for the supply of 500 persons. One operator in the
cotton factory makes cloth for 250, in the woolen factory
for 300. One shoe worker in a modern shoe factory fur-
nishes 1,000 men with all the boots and shoes they require
in a year. The more effective the capital, the higher the
wages, the lower the cost, and the greater the supply.

Day laborers in the United States have always tried to pre-
vent immigration of foreigners whose habits and ways of
living are cheaper than their own, believing that they would
find it hard to meet the competition. But immigration, in-
stead of injuring labor, has in many ways helped it. Some
of the laborers have brought with them small amounts of
capital which has been of benefit. If the reduction of the
cost of the lowest grades of labor has been a disadvantage to
those who compete in producing it, on the other hand it has
served as a great advantage to every consumer. And it has
made those in higher industrial groups better off because
 

36 THE SH®E CRAFT

 

they are relieved from doing work which could be done bet-
ter by cheap labor and poor men.

Wages are paid from capital. Adam Smith’s definition of
capital is, “Wealth used for the production of other wealth.”
It is that part of the wealth of a country which is employed
in production, and consists of food, clothing, tools, raw
material, machinery, and any other thing necessary to give
effect to labor. A manufacturer, for example, has part of
his capital in the form of factories, or machinery, or mer-
chandise, as wool, flax, leather, or metal, also a certain
amount of money which he pays to his workman. He may
have finished goods in a storehouse by the sale of which be
will obtain more money to be used in the same manner to
keep his machines in repair and to buy more stock. His
money and finished goods are not all capital because they
are not all devoted to the production of other wealth. He
probably employs part of his wealth in supplying his per-
sonal needs, in luxuries for himself and family, in paying
taxes, or in charity. What, then, constitutes his capital?
Only that part of his wealth which he employs in creating
new products, or increased income.

Accumulations of capital have their chief usefulness as a
means of producing income. It is hard to state what objects
are capital and what are not. Public capital is not the com-
bination of the capital of individuals any more than public
wealth is the total of individual property rights.

The distinction between different kinds of wealth defines
public wealth as that which permits of enjoyment, whether
it has a commercial value or not. The use obtained from
these things is the public income. The French economists
believed strongly in the powers of nature in making national
prosperity and wealth, that is, the supply of food.

Wealth, in the private sense of property, consists of one’s
right to the public wealth. The amount of one’s rights
which one has during a certain period is one’s income.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 37

The French economists did not lay enough stress upon
the utilization of agricultural products in determining the
nation’s wealth. The real prosperity of a nation depends
more upon the use it makes of its wealth at any one time.
The nation’s income is not represented by so much money
on hand in the treasury, but by the purchases made with
that money; not by an amount of food in storehouses, but
by the products produced by those who consume it. Capital
does not furnish the true measure of wages, but they are
measured by present industry. Sir William Mildmay, one
of the early writers, expresses his idea that the wages of la-
borers are determined by the price of food. “As plenty
and scarcity will in general determine the price of provis-
ions, so the price of provisions will, in general, determine
the wages of labor.” This view of the wage question does
not meet the conditions of modern industry. Vauban and
Boisguillebert take the same social point of view.

Ricardo, one of the later writers, taught that permanent
or “natural” wages depended simply on the price of food.
The advance of capital to laborers determined only market
wages which adjusted themselves to “natural” wages by a
variation in the number of laborers. One of the appli-
cations of Ricardo’s teachings on “natural” wages was that
a tax on food would raise the price, “wages would inevit-
ably and necessarily rise,” and profits would have to suffer.
The dependence of profits on the price of food through
wages is the weak spot in Ricardo’s theories. A rise in the
price of wheat or sugar would not necessarily raise the price
of labor and wages. We cannot go into a discussion of the
source of wages without considering the theory of wages
advanced by the political economists of the English School,
known as the Wage-Fund Doctrine, which is as follows:
“There is, for any country, a sum of wealth set aside for
the payment of wages, which is a portion of the total wealth
of the country. The ratio between the aggregate wealth or
capital and the portion devoted to the payment of wages is
 

38 THE SHOE CRAFT

not always the same, but at any given time the amount of
the wage-fund, under existing conditions, is determined by
the amount of capital. The wage-fund is definite at the
time taken. The amount of it cannot be increased by ap-
peals of the working class. The sum set aside for the pay-
ment of wages is distributed by competition. If one obtains
more, another must, for that reason, obtain less, or be kept
out of employment. Workmen are paid out of this sum,
and out of this alone. The whole of that sum is distributed
without loss; and the average amount received by each
laborer is accurately determined by the ratio existing be-
tween the wage-fund and the number of laborers. This fund
having at any time been determined for that time, the rate
of wages will be according to the number of persons then
applying for work. If they be more, wages will be low; if
they be fewer, wages will be high.” The wage-fund doctrine
has been endorsed largely on both sides of the Atlantic.
It really grew out of the state of affairs which existed in
England about the time of the Napoleonic wars. Capital
had accumulated to such an extent that employers paid
their laborers by the month, the week or the day, instead
of waiting until the returns were realized from the marketed
product. Wages were also low at that time and laborers
obtained merely a bare living wage, so that an increase in
their numbers either threw some out of employment or re-
duced the wages of all. This has given rise to the wage-
fund theory that wages are paid out of capital and that the
a is determined by the ratio between capital and popu-
ation.

But the conditions which prevailed in England have not
been known in the United States. Here the people have not
been shut out from the land; the laboring classes have been
able to make and have made large sums of money; and the
vast sums of wages have, since the earliest history of this
country, been paid not out of capital, but out of the com-
pleted product when marketed.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 39

 

In the United States, the industrial conditions have been
better for the payment of wages, while in England the
financial conditions have been more favorable. To repeat;
it is industrial conditions which determine the amount of
wages—the necessaries, comforts, and luxuries which the
laborer receives; the financial conditions determine only
the manner and time of payment—whether at once or at
some specified time. As has been said before, wages are
paid out of the product of present industry, and the value
of the product furnishes the true measure of wages. An
employer advances wages to buy labor, not to spend or get
rid of any extra wealth he may have. He buys labor, not to
keep the workmen employed, but because he desires to in-
crease his wealth. He produces wealth with a view of profit
to himself, individually. This is the sole reason for produc-
tion. If a person has wealth, it does not follow that he
should spend any of it on labor, machinery, or materials. It
is only when he sees that he can increase that wealth through
production that he employs labor in producing more wealth.
It is true that at times manufacturers will make goods at a
loss or with no profits at all, for the sake of keeping the
plants running and his working force together during the
quiet seasons. In this case the employment of labor is not
for production at a profit.

When men are receiving wages which give them a margin
for amusements and luxuries, then it is that they often be-
come unreasonable and demand certain rates of wages, re-
fusing to work or accept offers which are not as liberal as
they desire their employers to make. This is more true in
cities where luxuries are abundant than in the country where
the laborer requires less and has sufficient for his wants.
What the employer can afford to pay must be determined by
the grade of merchandise and amount of the product. In
the case of boots and shoes, in all grades, the wages con-
stitute one-third of the whole cost of the product. The price
of labor and wages is also determined by competition, re-
 

40 THE SHOE CRAFT

quirements of the market, or the supply and demand of
labor, and in that case should be treated as a commodity.
The amount of wages is determined by the ratio which
exists between the working population and the circulating
part of capital which is spent in the direct purchase of labor.

To consider labor with reference to competition, one must
apply the principle of the sliding scale and establish for the
laborer a standard wage. A refusal may force him to
starve or seek other employment. Students who have con-
sidered the matter in all its bearings hesitate to consider
labor as a commodity, instead of dealing with the subject
on the principle of the living wage. If the men who demand
a “living wage” are prepared to increase their working
efficiency as a means of making good their claims, their de-
mand is effective in securing its object and salutary in its
influence upon industrial life. But wages cannot be paid
without work, and increased efficiency of work is bound to
result from increase or improvement in wages.

Adam Smith and Malthus taught the doctrine that there is
a fund of food in nature, apart from human labor, which
they have called “the natural means of subsistence;” that
population is supplied in proportion as it remains small
relatively to this natural means of subsistence; and that as
it becomes abundant the increase of offspring among man-
kind is a check reducing the rates of wages until the means
of subsistence catch up with the number of men. The
fallacies of this doctrine can be plainly seen, for it is only
in the savage state that the food fund which sustains life is
supplied by nature, and even then division of labor is re-
quired, and therefore an increase of laborers becomes a
source of greater abundance in the supply. Then again, the
poor always multiply faster than the rich, and men are
always more reckless in multiplying their species when
poor.

Every species of animal, including man, constitutes a
means of subsistence for other animals, and the faster they
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 41

multiply the more means of subsistence there must be. For
example man, by raising crops as food for animals, in-
creases the subsistence of horses, cows, sheep, goats, and
all domestic animals.

The check on decline of wages by diminishing population
would be years in taking effect. During the first four or five
years of childhood the cost of the child’s support does not
exceed the increased value of the laborer’s work through the
extra exertions which come from the parents’ responsibility.
It is only after about ten years that the cost of the child’s
maintenance is felt, but by that time, in many conditions of
life, he should be worth his board as a helper. On a farm
he can gather eggs, feed the chickens, or harness the horse.
In the city he can perform many tasks about the house.
There should not be any unproductive period, in the full
economic sense, in any human life.

The law, or government, has no control over a man as to
whether he shall work for wages all his life or whether he
shall make a fortune and employ thousands of laborers.
Birth or education, particularly the latter, affect it some,
but race or sex does not influence life in any one direction.

The qualities which keep men in the wage class or take
them out of it are clearly definable and always end in the
same results. Haste in forming judgments, egotism, conceit,
and inablity to follow instructions of those who are re-
sponsible for the success of a business, will put otherwise
able men among the wage class. The author had a very able
employe who, after two years of steady work, became over-
confident and. branched out on his own responsibility, with
the result that in six months he had made a complete failure
of his business, lost all his money, and had to accept a much
inferior position, to obtain a living.

The thirst for drink is probably one of the greatest causes
which condemn men to the wage class. Then, too, timidity
about investing one’s money in doubtful enterprises for fear
 

42 THE SHOE CRAFT

of losing it prevents many a man from becoming an em-
ployer of labor.

Multiplicity of aims, when one is operating a business,
such as the desire to become proficient in art, music, politics,
religion, or social reform, or, in common language, “too
many irons in the fire,” will often prove disastrous to suc-
cess.

A defective sense of money values, or inability to discern
in what direction values will rise, will keep a man in the
wage class. A man’s temper and disposition have an im-
portant effect. He must know how to handle labor under all
circumstances, not be quarrelsome, ill-tempered, or captious,
but conservative, kind, and quick to settle controversies by
compromise.

The man who is faithful in small things will be ruler over
many things. Those who in a small enterprise will devote
the maximum of its returns to reproductive results are the
ones who will control industry. Upon these qualities labor
depends for its employment and the employer for success.
When by these means as much industry as one mind can
guide has come under one control, then the possessor will
have risen to his greatest possible utility and usefulness and
will profit as an accumulator of capital and an organizer
of labor. Whoever has seen anything of the two classes of
men knows that precipitancy, misinformation, lack of cour-
age, ignorance and miscalculation, if they characterize
the actions of assemblies or organizations, will cause
failure. The wage relation as surely exalts the skillful
profit-maker to the position of master as it lowers the
ignorant wage-earner to that of servant. It rises out of
psychological causes and is as clearly a part of the consti-
tution of man as the causes which distinguish force and
matter are of physics or chemistry.

What has the future for the wage-earner in the factories
and elsewhere throughout the country? If steady wages
cannot be secured, owing to the decrease in demand and loss
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 43

of employment, the laborers must look to other sources for
the betterment of their condition, striving to rise in
efficiency and excellence in work. They must endeavor to
bargain with the employer and settle without strikes disputes
which are costly and dangerous. Great benefit is bound to
come to the laborers through laws passed by the state for
improvements in factories. Much hope for the worker will
result from the enlargement of industry caused by increase
of capital as well as by improved machinery and better
methods of manufacture. An increase of production means
more wages for the worker and a larger share of the
product. The laborer must learn that new machines and
new productions invariably increase income in the end.
Owing to increased demand and quicker production, the
laborers are given steadier employment. The building and
operating of electric railroads after 1898 raised the wages
of capable laborers in many American States. The auto-
mobile business has grown up rapidly in a very few years.
The American railroads, employing over a million people,
require so much hauling from stations that wagon trans-
portation employs a larger percentage of people than be-
fore railroads were built. Then again, the fewer men em-
ployed in producing food and necessities of life, the more
there are left to produce comforts and luxuries which will
be exchanged for the surplus of those men whose income is
too large to be consumed in the simpler commodities and
who may not wish to save all the surplus to add to their
capital without increase of wants and luxuries. The men
displaced by labor-saving machinery could only find work
by taking the places of the least desired workers who have
been forced out upon charity. Men displaced by new ma-
chinery can generally adapt themselves quickly to another
kind of work, even though they have passed middle age.
The more machinery we have the better.

Low wages do not mean that vice and immorality will
follow. Take for illustration the mining camps of the West.
 

44 THE SHOE CRAFT

There, where the highest wages in the world prevail, are to
be found the worst examples of human degradation. On the
other hand, take some of the Canadian farming towns,
among which the author has spent much of his time. The
lowest wages in the world are paid in these small villages
and hamlets, yet the highest class of moral, law-abiding,
upright people are found among these farmers, far better
in many ways than the laborers of cities where wages are
much higher. Low wages do not cause vice. People in the
poverty-stricken districts of cities often grow up in vice
before they become wage-earners, and then, because of ig-
norance, earn small wages and remain evil. Inefficiency is
bound to lower wages. The dull intellect is not troubled by
low wages but is contented with little. Of course, in some
cases long hours of work which exhaust the body, and low
wages which tend to weaken hope for better things, will
cause men to drink, and thus promote vice, but only a small
proportion of the total drunkenness and crime in the United
States was caused from the start by low wages. A larger
proportion could and has resulted from idleness in time of
depression or strikes.

In the country the people would be happy with low wages
if they had never known the city. Food and living expenses
are cheaper in the country and the tempiations are less.
Starting dance halls, pool rooms, and saloons will bring
drunkenness and crime to the most upright community that
ever existed, if the people have not been educated in princi-
ples above such a level. The misery and crime which exists
today in American slums is due to society, not because of
any form of oppression, but through failure to bring about
reforms which would improve the conditions of life among
those who need the help of society. Present laws are being
strictly enforced for control of tenements and workshops,
for sanitation and education, and for decreasing crime and
poverty. By these methods knowledge may be increased,
wages may rise, and morality be promoted. The slum
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 45

 

people are themselves partly to blame for their condition of
poverty through voting for the boss, who favors them by
offering jobs and bribes of drink and whose corruption is
one of the causes of their wretchedness. Not alone does the
blame rest upon their shoulders, but leaders also are to
blame when, by monopoly of industries and greed for gain,
they devote themselves entirely to enriching themselves and
neglect to give any time to bringing about needed reforms.
In justice it must be said that in many instances employers
would be helped to do their duty by the people if the people
would honor their efforts at reform. Every class should
strive to look beyond its own short-sighted selfishness and
self-interests to the good of the public. The various evils
which exist are just what the people make them. Each man
is to blame so far as he neglects to do his duty towards
society and mankind.

Only so far as men become pure in morals and ideas can
there be purity in society. There must be the willingness of
self-denial for the right. The first cause of vice is the evil
born in one’s nature, which can be overcome to a large ex-
tent by will power and the power of religion. Of course,
temptations will always be present. Education and wealth
may lift one above the temptations of one social side of life,
but unfortunately only into another. One must form settled
habits of morality, and in that way guard against evil. The
standard of morality can be high where wages are low, if
the true spirit of industry, frugality, contentment, and re-
ligion exists. Idleness, laziness, and greed are the greatest
causes of vice in all conditions of society. Also, in times of
depression crime is bound to increase. An increase will
often come in cases where home ties are broken and hope
gives way to despair. The slaves of the South were driven
into bondage by crime, which increased under conditions of
idleness and lack of ambition. The proportion of idleness
to crime is indicated by the proportion of convicts who were
brought up at no regular trade, usually amounting to three-
 

46 THE SHOE CRAFT

fourths of their number. Low wages in England, before the
introduction of machinery, had the effect of making the
workers dull and heavy, as it does now in small communi-
ties, but not criminal or given to vice. The increase of
drunkenness which, towards the end of the eighteenth
century, many thinkers were led to believe was caused by
leisure and surplus income, was confined to the higher paid
skilled men. Higher wages, coming later to poorly paid
men, were first spent by many in drunkenness before they
began an effort to raise their standard of living. Brassey, a
noted contractor, found that in England high pay so in-
creased efficiency as to lower cost of labor, but that it made
the people ambitionless. People of India do less work on
high wages than with low pay. This is also true in some
cases in the author’s factory. When a man is earning
moderate wages and the work is steady, he works better, has
more ambition, and is very seldom given to drunkenness.
The reasons for this are very obvious. With moderate
wages he uses his best energies and efforts to increase his
efficiency; and knowing that by perfect workmanship he will
earn better wages in the future, his ambition is aroused,
he realizes that he is destined for a better position in life
than he now occupies; and all his efforts and mind are given
to the work. He seldom takes intoxicating liquors, first, be-
cause he knows that he cannot accomplish his work if he in-
dulges in immoral habits, and secondly, because his wages
will not allow him to spend money on luxuries, all of it
being needed for the necessities of life. On the other hand,
if the man receives large wages he soon becomes self-
reliant and his ambition, which was once his ruling passion,
grows weaker as he thinks his ambitions have been realized.
With a larger income he has more leisure and time for
pleasures, luxuries, and often dissipations. Money comes
easy and goes easy, if the man be of weak character.

Crime and vice are often less common among the ignor-
ant and uneducated than among those who have tasted of
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 47

 

dissipation and whose desires are greater. Education gives
a person power, but often fails to improve his morals. The
Canadian farming villages that are known the world over
for their high morals have a fair average of education, but
not the keenness of intellect that is found in some corrupt
cities. Education should be of the sort to make the person
do his work better and increase his efficiency. Denmark and
Norway are model cities of industry and only one per cent.
of the population of reading age cannot read and write.
Since the Civil War the education of negroes has been
carried to a high degree of efficiency. Before the War only
three per cent. of the negro slaves could read and write.
Now forty-seven per cent. of the blacks can read and write.
The education which is being carried on teaches the South-
ern blacks to do practical farming, laboring, and mechanical
and professional work. Such work not only improves their
living, but occupies and contents their minds, in most cases
eliminating the desire for idleness and crime. A wrong idea
of freedom and education undoubtedly did much harm to
the Southern negroes. Very few of the freed slaves realized
that freedom meant work as before, only more strenuous in
effort, and that their success depended upon themselves.
Their first teachers from the North had noble ideals and in-
tentions, but their methods were old-fashioned, not the
modern ideas of social life and education and practical ways
of getting a living. The results were good in training
teachers and ministers, but the vast majority were poor
blacks hired on farms where many of them do not work
regularly and steadily, but have grown up since the war to
dislike farm work and have proven themselves unreliable.

A prominent college president before the Industrial Com-
mission stated that the production of wealth in the different
States varies in the same proportion as the average number
of years of education the youth of the State receives, and
gives as a conclusion that the States having the most edu-
cation produce the most wealth, because the workers have
 

48 THE SHOE CRAFT

 

the greatest intelligence. However, I think he has over-
looked the product of the enormous capital in machinery—
the vast production of factories—in such States as Massa-
chusetts, which are operating factories by ignorant foreign
labor unable, in many cases, to read or write. Germany
had education in free schools long before England, but ow-
ing to wars and lack of enterprise, Germany found herself
far below England in wealth production until recent times.
The right kind of knowledge creates enterprises and they in
turn give productive wealth. The wage-worker must learn
that wages are fixed by the value his work adds to the
product. Where the selling price of the product will de-
mand $5.00 a day in wages, payment of more will reduce
the value to the consumer, with a consequent reduction in
wages.

In conclusion, what is the duty of society? | Those who
are strong in wealth should help and encourage the weaker
elasses to break away from bad habits, to hope for better
things, and to gain self-control and good business judgment.
Each one should engage in work best suited to himself,
thereby giving to industry the highest measure of per-
fection and reducing the minimum of incapacity. |

_

 
CHAPTER IV.

RELATION OF EMPLOYER TO EMPLOYE.

    
   
 

is¥ (VERY employer finds many difficulties in
; ( |the management of his business in regard
a i &|to a perfect organization of his workers
‘ 'V\and the best methods of training and in-
A struction. The larger the business or
sy (the more complicated the product, the
2 S82, ‘JI oreater the difficulty.

Many successful employers and men of wealth have ex-
pressed their sense of responsibility and good-will to their
employes by acts which have been of great benefit to those
who have been the means of the development and success of
the business. In no other country has this been done to such
an extent as in America. Hardly a large manufacturing city
or town can be found that does not show the good results
of the manufacturer’s wealth. Among the well-known
manufacturers and concerns of the country who have done
much for their own cities or towns might be mentioned
Henry Ford, Detroit; the National Cash Register Company,
Dayton, Ohio; Ludlow Manufacturing Company, Ludlow,
Mass.; the Cranes of Dalton, Mass.; the Drapers of Hope-
dale; Thomas G. Plant Company, of Jamaica Plain, and
many others. The interest shown by these concerns has
descended from generation to generation. Large gifts have
been made to charitable institutions and homes have been
built for the comfort of the employes. Many concerns in
America have adopted the system, in use extensively
throughout England, of “Profit Sharing,” which is a method
of paying out of the profits a dividend to the workman,
based on the amount of his wages. The spirit of fair deal-
ings to all is quite essential to the success of any business.

PROPERTY OF LIBRARY
NEW YORK STATE sauna 2
INDUSTRIAL ALD LAPGR REI ATI? “CCS
 

50 THE SHOE CRAFT

The employer must recognize in the workman any char-
acteristic which would entitle him to a position of responsi-
bility, realizing that every workman, young or old, has the
desire to improve his condition.

The love of home and the desire for the education of their
children is inherent in all men and women. When factories
were small, the employer came into personal contact with
his men, but today, where thousands work in one factory,
this is quite impossible and the relations must be exerted
through foreman and superintendent.

The ideas and plans that can be introduced in factories
are many and varied. Improvements can be made in some
way in most all factories, and some suggestions which will
be of great benefit to the laboring class in general will be
described in this chapter.

Fresh air, clean rooms, abundance of bright sunlight and
electric lighting at night, are of utmost importance. Kero-
sene lamps, and even gas, which is now seldom used in
factories, will quickly ruin the eyesight. Curtains should
be used on all windows to regulate the amount of sunlight,
and the walls of factories should be painted of such color as
to be restful to the eyes of workers. Cleanliness should be
insisted upon at all times, and floors of rooms should be
swept night and morning. Protection from machinery and
dust are required by law. Waste cans are now required by
insurance companies, and have proven of much help in dis-
posing of rubbish. Places should be provided for discarded
articles, such as parts of machinery, unused tools, damaged
goods, or anything that is not ready for immediate use.
Economy should be insisted upon among the workmen. A
well-regulated factory should have water that is pure and
in convenient places for the workmen. In some factories
boys carry water in cans to the employes while at work.

Provision should be made for the comfort of the men
and women, that they may have suitable and clean places for
washing the hands and face. Neat clothing adds to their
sense of self-respect. A large number of foundries and
 

ITS ORGANIZATION ol

 

factories supply lockers and baths for men to use before
leaving the buildings. This has proven to be a benefit, and
secures a higher and better class of men, and consequently
better work. The personal comfort and health of em-
ployes require much thought and attention. Not a few
factories have their employes examined by a physician, to
ascertain whether they have any weakness which would be
effected by the special work which they are to perform.
The points considered in most cases are weight, height,
whether married or single, vaccination, mental troubles, if
any, family history in regard to diseases of the eyes, nose,
throat, lungs, heart, etc., or if addicted to use of spirituous
liquors, tobacco, or other vices. Another important help
for employes, required by the State, is a small dispensary
with medicine where bandages, plaster, etc., can be quickly
obtained. In the author’s factory this was the means of
saving the life of a workman who was badly cut in an
artery by a large knife, as it was only by the quick appli-
cation of bandages that the flow of blood was stopped.

Several large manufacturing plants have fitted up lunch
rooms where employes can obtain meals at low rates. The
National Cash Register Company has carried the plan out
on a large scale. In this instance, the workers are supplied
with two kinds of good, substantial food, with tea, coffee,
cocoa, or milk. Rates of one cent a day are charged and it
is claimed that the extra good work resulting from the
effects of wholesome food more than pays the cost of the
lunch.

In a number of factories, in either the lunch room or one
near it, will be found a piano for use during the noon hour.
The Cleveland Glass Company has club-rooms for men and
women for amusement and reading. Sometimes the hour is
spent in practical talks or entertainments. The Cleveland
Twist Drill Company has a large, cheerful dining room in
which are three long tables seating about 300 people.

A Chicago office has recently introduced the custom of
serving tea and wafers to its force of women stenographers
 

52 THE SHOE CRAFT

at three o’clock each afternoon, to strengthen them during
the weary last hours of the day. The National Shawmut
Bank of Boston furnishes its clerks with a full course dinner
to compensate for the extra hours of work during the busy
seasons of the year.

To encourage men to invent new methods of work and
create new improvements, many concerns have offered prizes
for suggestions and ideas. This plan is the means of broad-
ening the minds of the workmen beyond the mere details of
the work upon which they may be engaged.

Quite often in factories the men in authority do not care
to hear or accept suggestions from workmen. Especially is
this true of foremen who wish to have their own ideas car-
ried out and get the credit for any improvement in the
product. But the author has found by personal experience
that many good and valuable ideas can be obtained from
workmen who have labored for months and even years upon
a certain line of work.

It is very easy for a man who has operated certain ma-
chines for a long time to invent some new and better method
of shortening his labor where a man who is his overseer
would never discover it. Remarkable success has been ob-
tained by offering prizes for new inventions: The idea
should be fully explained to the employe to satisfy his mind
that he as well as the employer is to receive benefit from any
idea suggested. Printed bulletins can be posted throughout
the factory stating the prizes, the time for competition, and
the plans for examination. Suggestions can cover a variety
of subjects, such as new methods of management, improve-
ment in tools and labor-saving devices, ways to prevent
waste of materials, new designs and styles in products,
changes in the buildings or grounds, personal comfort of
the employes, and new advertising schemes to help increase
the business.

In every case the prizes offered should be only for the
employes outside of the heads of the departments, or those
employed on regular salaries. The correct method of re-
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 53

cording suggestions is by means of autographic registers,
which make duplicate copies, the original being torn off
and kept by the writer, while the other is locked in the ma-
chine. In some cases a small ballot box can be used, in
which slips are dropped, signed by the workmen. De-
cisions can be made by the secretary of the factory, a com-
mittee, or some person appointed for the purpose.

The length of time for the competition may vary as de-
sired. The National Cash Register Company offers fifty
prizes in sums of $50, $40, $30, $25 and $20, fifteen of $15,
and thirty of $10, each six months. This is the idea of the
Cleveland Hardware Company, also, which offers $100, di-
vided into six parts, varying from $5 to $50. The Eastman
Kodak Company offers sixteen prizes amounting to $150
quarterly.

Another form of assistance to factory workers is a library
and reading-room. Some factories where this has been
adopted confine themselves to books of a technical nature,
while others supply general and miscellaneous reading. In
some cities and towns the public libraries arrange to estab-
lish at the factories branches for the use of books that may
be exchanged at an interval of a month or so. It has often
been found difficult to decide upon the best magazines for
use in factories, but a selection of the following is very de-
sirable: Review of Reviews, American Machinist, Cosmo-
politan, McClures, Century, Harpers Magazine, Ladies’
Home Journal, Scribners, Success, Outing, Public Opinion,
Scientific American, Youth’s Companion, and Saturday
Evening Post.

Some factories publish a magazine of their own which
helps to cultivate a closer co-operation among employes and
agents regarding the manufacture or sale of the product,
describing any new improvements. If prizes are awarded,
the names of the winners, with details of the contest, are
published. Among a few of the well-known concerns issuing
magazines are National Cash Register Company, which pub-
lishes a semi-monthly magazine; the Sherwin Williams Com-
 

54 THE SHOE CRAFT

pany, the “Chameleon”; the Acme White Lead Company,
“Thoughts”; Eastman Kodak Company, “The Suggestion
Bulletin”; H. J. Heinz Company, “Pickles”; E. W. Burt
Company, “Grippertown News.” Many of these are beauti-
fully illustrated. Some are devoted to local and factory
matters, others to methods of selling and making.

Still another practical method of helping the workers is
in buying the commodities of every day life. Some com-
panies make arrangements for purchasing goods at less
than regular prices. In the case of tools, arrangements have
been made to purchase them at 10 to 25 per cent. less than
the regular prices in retail stores. Coal, provisions, cloth-
ing, and luxuries are purchased at wholesale by some com-
panies, saving the employes a considerable amount each
year.

The Illinois Steel Company of Joliet has a plan of co-
operative purchases of flour, potatoes, books, magazines,
clothing, etc. The National Cash Register Company ob-
tains reduced rates on magazines, books, and other articles
for the benefit of their employes.

The question of the employment of women is a very im-
portant one. This class of labor is found to a large extent
in almost all manufacturing establishments. A prominent
owner of a large mill said that he was certain that four or
five years’ work in one of the mills practically destroyed the
womanhood of an employe. This is a subject for serious
thought. Women are sensitive to their surroundings and
will respond with a loyalty and interest that is not known
among men employes. Faithfulness in work, reliability,
honor, and loyalty to the employer are much greater among
the women operatives than among the men. During a cer-
tain space of time it has been found that on the average
the women employes excel the men in matters of honesty.
Rarely has it been found that a woman has stolen goods
or merchandise from the factory or entered wrong numbers
or amounts in the weekly pay-roll, which frequently occurs
among the men. Few cases have been recorded of women
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 55

employes being absent from work except through sickness cr
absolute necessity, whereas among men it is one of the most
difficult problems to educate them to the importance of
promptness in hours of work. Rarely if ever does a woman
have to be censured for idleness during working hours.
Diligence in work, with temperate habits, is characteristic of
women. Intemperance among men is one of the chief causes
for idleness and discharge, with which women do not have
to contend.

It is desirable that shorter hours should be established for
women. Several concerns have reduced the hours of women
employes with good results. The arrangement of having
women leave work before the men has a good effect on the
relation of the men and women throughout the factory. A
recess of ten minutes in the morning and afternoon is of
much help to women who are engaged upon work re-
quiring close attention to detail. The New York Telephone
Company grants twenty minutes’ recess twice a day, and the
night operators are allowed three hours’ rest each night.

The employer of women should consider carefully the
welfare of his women employes, and allow them such com-
forts as are consistent with their work, not over-burdening
them with heavy work or long hours. The results are bound
to result in faithfulness on their part, and in the end a much
higher class of women will be obtained than would other-
wise be possible.

It has often been asked whether the theory can be ac-
cepted that woman ought to, with average profit to herself,
be a self-supporting competitor in the labor market. There
are many women to whom the restraint of a family relation
seems unbearable. There are, however, many cases of young
girls who are thrown upon their own resources, where work
is necessary for support of the family. But woman’s place
is in the home and not at the bench. How much better a
wife a woman becomes who has never suffered the hardships
of factory life! There are many circumstances which ren-
der a woman’s work of less value than that of a man. Her
 

56 THE SHOE CRAFT

prospective marriage constantly threatens to end her work,
while the marriage of a man confirms the steadiness of his
work, provided he marries the right kind of a woman.
Woman’s offer of labor in the market is not sought for as
much as that of a man. Her work must be suited to a
woman. The average of women workers to men is about
one in ten.

The introduction of machinery has not been followed by
a great increase in the proportion of labor done by women
and children. A much larger proportion of industrial work
is done by women in unprogressive parts of Europe where
the new and modern machines are unknown in factories.
If one will examine the censuses of the United States, he will
find an increasing proportion of men engaged in manu-
factures, a nearly stationary proportion of women, and an
actually decreasing proportion of children.

Although machinery may dispense with physical strength,
it requires great responsibility in handling which could not
be supplied by women and child labor.

The interest which the employer shows for his employes
will not be lost or forgotten. Experience has shown that
where any plans are carried out for the benefit of the
laborers they in turn have responded readily and heartily to
the efforts of the employer and have sought to benefit by
their opportunities. In many cases they have organized
among themselves clubs, organizations, and societies of vari-
ous kinds.

Any methods of bettering the condition of the employes
has been the means of securing better workmanship and
faithfulness to their duties. The employe should show his
appreciation of the efforts of his employer by more pains-
taking work, by preventing damage to the products, and by
not wasting time which belongs to his employer. In many
factories damage to goods in process of manufacture is a
large and important item. It is so great in some factories
that it has become necessary to charge the loss to the work-
man. With proper care on the part of the employe, damage
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 57

to goods may be reduced to almost nothing. Of course acci-
dents are bound to occur, especially among “green” help,
but when a workman has filled a position for months or
years upon only one line of work there is no excuse for
damaged goods passing through his hands.

A case in point came under the author’s notice. A cer-
tain workman, temperate and of superior intelligence,
allowed nearly fifty pairs of shoes to be cut through the
vamp by a guide which had become worn on his machine.
These shoes were sold at a loss of $1.00 a pair. Other cases
of similar nature could be mentioned which were caused by
carelessness on the part of the operator.

Let every worker realize that the success of any business
of which he is a part depends as much upon his individual
efforts as those of any other employe.

“Perfection in work” should be the golden rule of every
employe. A personal interest in daily labor is what the
employe wants. The intelligent and faithful efforts of every
man and woman, from the lowest to the highest, are sure
to bring about a successful harmony and just relations be-
tween the great army of employes and their employers.

 
 

58

THE SHOE CRAFT

CAUSES OF STRIKES AND LOCKOUTS
REPORTED DURING NOVEMBER, 1915

Cause. Strikes. Lockouts.
WARES ioe sscsgn ld hentia ein aerated 27 1
OWES? sti ie et Gade ess 20 1
Wages and hours............. 14 1
Discharge of employes........ 8 2
Presence of non-union......... 8 1
Agreement .................. 6
Recognition ................. 5
Other causes ................ 15 1

Total cncduccrtagecieieteve 103 7

Total.

28
21
15
10
9
6
3
16

110
CHAPTER V.
LABOR CONTROVERSIES.

pt L strikes are a serious loss to both em-

$|ployer and employe, far reaching in
: effects. Many questions must be con-
¥{sidered in discussing the differences of
t|labor. There is no doubt that some strikes
sy) | are beneficial, but starvation, poverty,
ncoS IZ, SI loss of wages, and even death are bound
to Follow: in the wake of a bitterly fought labor war. Men
and women are thrown out of employment, wages stop, and
production ceases. Many and great are the strikes which
have been fought in the American labor movement. The
causes have been varied, success in some cases, defeat in
others, being the results.

A strike occurs when the employes of an establishment
refuse to work unless the management complies with some
demand made by the strikers. A lock-out, so-called, occurs
when the management refuses to allow the employes to work
unless they will work under certain conditions established
by the management, but opposed by the workmen. In effect,
however, strikes and lock-outs are the same. One of the
first strikes among American laborers occurred as early as
1792 among the shoemakers of Philadelphia, who left work
until a higher scale of wages was paid, which in the end was
secured. But in 1799 the shoemakers of Philadelphia again
turned out to resist a reduction of wages. The strike lasted
about ten weeks, and was only partly successful. Very few
strikes occurred during Colonial days, as industry was youn,
and the factory system had not become well established.
When shops were small, the employers were in close re-
lationship with their employes and differences were easily
settled without dispute.

  
 

60 THE SHOE CRAFT

The shoemakers of Philadelphia were continually order-
ing strikes, and again in 1805 the Journeymen Shoemakers’
Association turned out for an increase in wages. The de-
mands ranged from twenty-five to seventy-five cents a pair
increase. The strike lasted from six to seven weeks and
ended unsuccessfully. In 1809 the shoemakers of New York
ordered a strike, affecting nearly two hundred men, which
was also unsuccessful.

The years 1821 to 1834 showed a number of strikes
among carpenters, calkers, shoemakers, and tailors. The
one of most influence upon the labor world came in 1834 in
the city of Lynn, Mass., a city which was to become famous
throughout the country for its many and bitterly fought
strikes.

The strike in question was caused by the female shoe
binders, who asked for an increase of wages. These women
took the work from the factory to their homes, and they re-
fused to continue at the old price. The number involved
was about a thousand. The employers refused to agree to
the demands, and finding it possible to get the work done in
nearby towns, the strike came to an unsuccessful termination.

After the year 1835 and during that year there was a
large number of strikes instigated by both men and women.
The number of strikes by employes desiring more wages was
so numerous as to call forth comments from the public
press. An investigation conducted by the United States
Department of Labor of all strikes occurring in the country
from 1881 to 1886 inclusive shows that during those six
years 3,902 strikes occurred, affecting over 20,000 factories.
The number of workmen involved amounted to 1,300,000.

In 1880 the strikes recorded, as stated by C. Dwight, were
some 3,400, but the number dropped to 2,928 in 1881, and in
1882 it went still further down to 2,105. In 1883 the num-
ber rose to 2,759. In 1886 the largest number of strikes
occurred, amounting to 9,861.

The States where the largest number of strikes occurred
were New York, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Ohio, and
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 61

Illinois. It may be interesting to see the figures and re-
sults of these strikes from 1881 to 1886. Out of the
1,300,000 people affected, 88 per cent. were males and 11
per cent. were females. Forty-five per cent. of the strikes
were successful, 14 per cent. partially successful, and 39 per
cent. failures.

The number of strikes and lockouts in the United States
during the first six months of 1915, including those which
began prior to January 1, 1915, and remained unsettled on
that date, were 658, according to data compiled by the
United States Bureau of Labor Statistics from newspapers
and other sources. This number is but slightly larger than
that shown for the first half of 1914, namely, 646.

According to the same authority, the number of strikes
and lockouts during the five months, July to November in-
clusive, was 577. One strike which started in May, and 29
strikes and three lockouts which started in months not speci-
fied, but all of them not previously reported, were also
brought to the attention of the Bureau during November,
making a total of 610 new labor disputes during the five
months ending November, 1915.

The total number of strikes and lockouts occurring during
the 11 months of 1915, including the important strikes that
began prior to January 1, but remained unsettled on that
date, was 1,268. The total number of strikes and lockouts
during the year 1914 was, according to the Bureau’s data,
1,080.

In 110 cases the causes of the strikes and lockouts were
given. Of these, 64, or 58 per cent., related to questions of
hours and wages. Of the strikes, 27, or 26 per cent. were
for an increase in wages, and 20, or 19 per cent., for a re-
duction of hours.

The number of strikes and lockouts during the six months,
July to December, 1915, inclusive, was 735. The total num-
ber of strikes and lockouts during the 12 months of the
year was 1,393.
 

62 THE SHOE CRAFT

The author had occasion to visit in Danbury, Conn., which
is probably the largest hat manufacturing city in the
country, and learned of the difficulty of one of the largest
concerns there in 1903 in which they brought suit for
damages of $100,000 against the national officers and 250
local members of the hatters’ union, the homes and bank
accounts of the latter being attached. This suit was backed
by the Anti-Boycott Society. The plaintiff claimed that be-
cause he refused to discharge non-unionists, though he was
paying union wages, his business was nearly ruined by a
boycott, which involved publication in unfair lists, and also
threatened boycotting of dealers who sold his hats. Labor
leaders defend boycotting as a legitimate and necessary
weapon of labor and regard the tendency of the courts to
condemn it as a great injustice. Boycotting is quite common
in States where unions are numerous. Injunctions stopping
boycotts, which courts will generally grant where the
damage to the employer’s business is great, have been quite
frequent during the past few years. Large concerns doing
business over a great area usually ignore a boycott. In
1903 a boycott was in progress against the cracker trust
and another against the cigar trust. When a concern is
opposed to unionism in an outspoken manner, a boycott is
ordered by the union and the unionists use their influence as
consumers to stop the buying of goods made by that concern,
writing letters and sending circulars to merchants handling
the concern’s goods, or writing to advertisers, when the con-
cern is a newspaper. But this manner of procedure has in
one instance been enjoined. In a decision of 1898, which
prevented the distributing of a boycotting letter sent out in
a city of Michigan, the Supreme Court said in its decision:
“They may present their cause to the public in newspapers
or circulars in a peaceable way and with no attempt at
coercion.”

Further labor controversies will be considered in a later
chapter.
CHAPTER VI.

LABOR ORGANIZATIONS.

"\*|ABOR organizations, known as unions,
< | among shoe workers in Massachusetts have
make rapid strides and constitute a time-
?| honored movement. We will consider
their history and movements as they affect
ai'| the status of both sexes. The localities se-
F ip. | lected for study differ widely in respect to
unionized labor. Brockton and Lynn, though very different
in their methods of organization, are strictly union centers.
Boston and its outlying suburbs are practically unorganized.
Lynn and Brockton union officials, on whatever points
they disagree, unite in stating the difficulty of holding
women to a realization of the importance of organization for
their own protection and the general good of the workers.
The younger or smaller paid workers especially grudge the
weekly dues, while the mature, steady women resent the ex-
penditure of the union money for the occasional associa-
tion recreation. Few women comprehend the value of un-
ions in standardizing wages or seek to utilize them in secur-
ing physical or moral sanitation in the shops. A reason fre-
quently assigned by men for the indifference of women to
the unions is that they do not consider organization pos-
sible. A more reluctantly stated cause is the social atmos-
phere which follows membership in a union. This reason is
strong in Brockton, possibly because women workers there
are as a class considered socially superior to the men. The
entrance of foreigners into the stitching rooms and their
compulsory membership in stitchers’ unions has increased
this feeling, which especially prevails among Americans.
Women naturally spend more time in the home and are

      
 

64 THE SHOE CRAFT

not inclined to devote their time to organization work.
Most women work in factories to assist in the support of
families and add their earnings to the fathers’ and sons’
wages. There is not the demand for women workers com-
pared to men, and wages are naturally lower.

In the southeastern towns of Massachusetts, except Lynn,
nearly all shoe workers are members of the Boot and Shoe
Workers’ Union, an organization not affiliated with the
American Federation of Labor.

The history of its inception and growth is interesting. It
shows a record of good service. Since control over strikes
was given to the Boot. and Shoe Workers’ Union the wages
of its members have been protected. High dues and bene-
fits add to the success.

“The growth of the Boot and Shoe Workers’ Union is one
of evolution and service, unity and progress, construction
and success,” says the Boot and Shoe Workers’ Journal. It
did not start under the most auspicious circumstances. We
realize this fact better as we look back on its history.
It started in April, 1895, with the declaration on the part of
the then existing organizations of shoe workers that there
should be one union in the shoe trade. But the financial
plan of the new organization was weak. It was based upon
low dues and a low per capita tax. It was based also on
local autonomy. Each local union could do entirely as it
pleased, and did so. If such action resulted in a strike, the
national union could not support it, because no provisions
had been made,—the union was not built that way. In 1898
the first arbitration contract was made. In 1899 a new
constitution was adopted establishing twenty-five cent dues
and sick, death, and strike benefits, under control of the
national union, and giving the national union control over
strikes.

In these two years the union changed from a mob to an
organized force, and since the year 1899 the union has con-
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 65

 

tinually progressed by becoming constantly of more service
and benefit to its members.

During these years of progress and of service since 1899,
and in spite of the obstructive work of its enemies in
1903, 1909, this union has protected the wages of its
members through all periods, especially during the panic of
1907 and through the long months of prostration due to
the present war in Europe. There has been no slaughtering
of the wages of the shoemakers since this union became
efficient in the year 1899.

In addition to protecting the wages of its members against
reduction, this union has been the means of constantly rais-
ing them, principally through the working out of the arbi-
tration contract. In thousands upon thousands of instances
the mere existence of this agreement to arbitrate has been
the means of settling disputes by mutual adjustment without
arbitration and upon terms favorable to the workers. Arbi-
tration cases have been won and arbitration cases have been
lost, but mutual adjustments have always been successful.

This union has redeemed every pledge. Every legal, sick,
and death benefit has been paid. Every strike that has been
sanctioned has been paid its strike benefit to the end, no
matter how long the period was. That strikes have been
less numerous is a tribute to the efficiency of the service of
the organization through its arbitration and mutual adjust-
ment policy.

This union has won a standing not only in the labor
world, but in the shoe world. The union is recognized as a
factor, and, more than that, is respected as a labor organiza-
tion whose word and contract can be depended upon, and
this in itself is an asset of no mean value. For when a labor
organization has the respect of an employer, because of its
disposition and its strength, it is a long way on the road
towards a satisfactory adjustment of any’ honest differences
of opinion.
 

66 THE SHOE CRAFT

In no factory in Brockton and in few situated in sur-
rounding towns can a non-union man be employed. The
various classes of operators are further organized into
groups, as the Lasters’ Union, the Vampers’ Union, the Cut-
ters’ Union, etc. All of these send delegates to the joint
council of the Boot and Shoe Workers’ Union, which has a
contract relation with the manufacturers, maintained in
most instances for the past 10 or 15 years. The unions guar-
antee that there will be no strikes, the manufacturers that
they will maintain a price list fixed by joint conference.
In Brockton the higher wage, good factory equipment, and
permanence of business concerns are no doubt largely due
to the intelligent management of the unions.

The fact that the unions have to deal with a broad-minded
class of manufacturers, who reside among and respect their
working force, must be given a large place in the accom-
plishment of these results. One or two factories have stood
conspicuously apart in their refusal to employ union labor.
The old town of Bridgewater had a factory in which 90
per cent. of the working force were foreign born. As the
managers made a point of teaching shoemaking, many
workers went there for a time to learn, but left as soon as
the processes were acquired to find work under better con-
ditions. Women are less completely organized than men,
though in Brockton the Stitchers’ Union No. 154 numbers
several thousand women. Some women belong to the Dress-
ers’ and Packers’ Unions and others to the Vampers’ or
Skivers’ Unions. Altogether, about four-fifths of the women
of the Brockton district belong to unions. Dues for all
members are 25 cents a week. Those who have been mem-
bers for 6 months are entitled to a sick benefit of $5 a week
for 13 weeks, and for members in good standing for two
years there is a death benefit of $100. The officials of the
women’s unions complain of the lack of interest on the part
of their membership and the difficulty of securing quorums
for the fortnightly business meetings.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 67

In strong contrast to the unified labor in Brockton and
its stable relation to the employers are the chaotic condi-
tions in Lynn. The multiplication of labor organizations,
their discordant views, their varied actions, and their too
frequent demands for alteration in shop conditions are
assigned by many of the employers as causes of their op-
position to unions. Within ten years many large firms have
removed their plants to other centers less effected by unions.
Five hundred manufacturers have started in Lynn since
1900, and only about 88 are left in 1917. Moving a fac-
tory means great expense to the business, not only in the
cost of a new plant and loss of time and old help but in
the loss incurred by settling amid a population untrained
to shoemaking. It has been said that three generations are
needed to make a skilled shoemaker. This dictum bids fair
to be disproved in its limited sense, but what may not be
true of the individual may be generally true of a community.

Among the Lynn shoe workers there are about 57 labor
unions, most of them under the United Shoe Workers of
America. The agent of the Boot and Shoe Workers’ Union
estimates that there are in the stitching rooms at Lynn
about 3,000 women, one-third of whom belong to some
union. The Boot and Shoe Workers’ Union has several
thousand. This does not include the workers who work
only during the rush time. They do not have to join
the union even in a closed shop, but if they remain
longer, they are usually approached by the agent or fore-
woman and asked to join. It is claimed by the agent
that the women do not take very much interest in the
unions. At most of the meetings there are not more than
7 to 20 women present.

A labor agent states that practically all the men employed
in the shoe factories in Lynn are organized in unions, and
about one-third to one-half of all the women.

A secretary of the women’s branch of the Boot and Shoe
Workers’ Union states that this union was established in
 

68 THE SHOE CRAFT

 

March, 1903, and includes all women workers in three fac-
tories. She asserts that the women are interested in the
union; that the Americans and Irish take the most interest;
but that few of the foreign women come to the meetings.
Workers over 60 years of age are not admitted to the union.
The rush help does not have to join nor do the forewomen.
The regular business meeting is held once a month, and
there are no social meetings. The women in the towns sur-
rounding Lynn are not organized, but a number of men
belong to unions as individuals.

A local union of the United Shoe Workers includes but-
tonhole operators, finishers, eyeletters, and buttoners. The
first meeting was called December, 1907. The secretary
states that 24 women workers met and organized, receiving
hearty support from the Lasters’ Union. The union was at
first independent, but it has been affliated with the United
Shoe Workers of America for the past few years. The
reason for organizing was the reduction in the price paid
the women working on the buttonhole machines, a change
due to the displacement of the old Singer machine by the
Reece buttonhole machine, now universally installed. The
increase in the amount of work done each day in connection
with the new machine caused manufacturers to cut prices
repeatedly, until the women were forced to protest. Under
the rates now fixed by agreement with the unions as much
can be made per day as when the Singer machines were
used, and often more. The secretary states that organiza-
tion has done more for the buttonhole operators than for
any other class of workers in the shoe industry, and for this
reason the union members are very enthusiastic. She asserts
that the manufacturers have been square in their dealings
and have co-operated with the union officials in raising
prices, which both sides realized were too low. The usual
meetings of this union have from 10 to 30 members present.
A meeting has never been dismissed for lack of a quorum.
The United Shoe Workers pay $100 death benefit to the
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 69

members of any of the local unions under its organization
who have been in good standing for the year. There is a
good deal of social activity in the union.

An independent women’s organization is the Buttonhole
Operators’ Union, formed a few years ago. Impetus to its
foundation was given by the fact that there are in Lynn
many contract rooms in which only the buttonhole and eye-
letting work is done, and their cheap contracts keep down
the prices in the regular shops. The secretary stated that
before the union was formed workers could not make more
than $7 or $8 a week, since the prices paid were only 3 cents
to 34 cents per 100 holes. When the union was organized
it raised the price to 5 cents per 100.

In Marlboro, as well as in some of the surrounding small
shoe towns, the organization of labor was fairly complete
before the year 1898. At that time an occasion of disagree-
ment arose between employers and employes on a question
of no very material interest, as is now conceded. The
result, however, was a universal strike on the part of the
local working force, finally broken by the importation of
outside workers, many of whom were Greeks. The women
workers of Marlboro struck with the men at that time, as
they were largely dependent on the action of the masculine
element in the shoe-working force. In Boston, Jamaica
Plain, Everett, and other shoe sections near Boston there are
few union shops, while there is little effectively organized
labor.

Labor men will point to the fact that the strongly or-
ganized centers, such as Lynn and Brockton, show the high-
est average wage. While the two conditions have doubtless
a true relation, there are other factors which enter into the
making up of the annual earnings. Among these are the
quality of the product, the proportion of women workers,
and the fact that in fixing wages in any locality the cost of
living must be considered. Low wages in other centers are
due partly to the character of the product and partly to the
 

70 THE SHOE CRAFT

standards of living among the unskilled workers largely
employed in its manufacture.

In all organized shoe factories there are two classes of
workers, in both men’s and women’s departments, and there
are two methods of paying for the work, namely “time” and
“piece” prices. Time payment is usually made where qual-
ity is of the greatest importance, in the case of high-priced
leather. In Lynn the time price varies from $25 per week
upward in cutting finest qualities of upper leather requiring
difficult patterns. In the stitching rooms, women on samples
and difficult pattern work are paid by the hour, which aver-
ages about 30 cents per hour. Other parts upon which it is
impossible to establish a piece price are usually done by the
hour or week work. Beginners on blacking or cementing
are started on weekly wages. All foremen and helpers, also
boys, are employed on time work. Investigation of several
factories shows that less than 20 per cent. are on time work,
but some factories run as high as 30 to 40 per cent. This
question has been touched upon in Chapter Three. Of the
women in shoe factories 43 per cent. earn less than $12 for
the busiest week, while in other industries the number earn-
ing under $9 varies from 63 per cent. to 92 per cent. (rub-
ber boots and shoes being excepted). The woman who can
choose the industry she will enter will, if she is satisfied at
$9 a week, select above all others the rubber-shoe factory.
If she aims at $10 and over, she will enter the shoe factory
and be one of the women whose skilled work commands
this wage.

The piece prices have certain relative ratios for different
operations, but in all cases they are subject to a constant
variation, dependent on the nature and value of the product.
A vamper, for instance, may work one week to complete an
order, being paid at the rate of 24 cents per dozen pairs;
the next week the order may call for vamps worth 12 cents
a dozen pairs. Various methods are used to fix a rate for
new patterns or shapes, among which the following is com-
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 71

 

mon. A skilled or “sample” stitcher, who can stitch all
parts of the shoe, is given the vamping in a new style of
shoe to stitch for an eight-hour day. She is paid the maxi-
mum rate, say 25 cents an hour. She is found able to stitch
200 pairs in 10 hours, or 20 pairs in one hour. It is clear
that if 20 pairs are worth 25 cents, 12 pairs are worth 15
cents, and the latter is fixed as the rate. The piece rate is,
then, at the bottom, a payment for so much time. Though
some of the operators will stitch the 20 pairs of vamps, or
even more, in an hour, it is evident that the majority will not
attain the speed of the expert stitcher. This is especially
true of operations done by the less experienced. Were the
piece price equalized with a time rate, it would seldom reach
25 cents an hour. The piece rate is usually per dozen pairs
of shoes, or on 100 pairs in case lots. The piece-price sys-
tem in shoe factories works out more satisfactorily for both
employer and employe. In busy factories skilled shoe-
makers on Goodyear stitching machines, roughrounding, and
welting machines earn weekly wages of $40 to $60 under
the piece system. If I were a member of any labor union
I should prefer to work on the piece system, which is the
same principle as a shoe salesman on the road selling shoes
on commission instead of salary.

A third factor influencing the amount of wages for bath,
hand and machine workers is the dependence of one de-
partment upon another. The lasters depend upon the
stitchers, the stitchers depend upon the cutters, the cutters
upon the stock room, and the stock room waits to get out
its leather in accordance with the order tickets from the
office. However methodical may be the management, there
are days when one department must wait upon another, or
one lot of material be finished before another is at hand.
The workers are not sure they will have work for all hours
in any one day.
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ITS ORGANIZATION 73

NUMBER AND PER CENT. OF THE BOOT AND SHOE
WORKERS, MALE AND FEMALE, AGED 18 OR OVER,
ee CLASSIFIED AMOUNTS IN WEEK ENDING

. 16, 1911.

[Source: Massachusetts Bureau of Statistics—Twenty--sixth Annual
Report on the Statistics of Manufacturers.|

CLASSIFIED WEEKLY EARNINGS. MALES. FEMALES.
No. Percent. No. Percent.

Under $10.................. 10,326 = 19.5 14,277 = 53.1
$10 but under $12.......... 6,305 11.9 5,159 19.2
$12 “ BSc cacecas 10,853 20.5 4,645 17.3
$15“ $5 G20). ss sastteeccs 15,248 28.8 2,386 8.9
$20 “ Me BOG east siavatesatn’s 6,821 129 370 14
$25 and over............... 3,427 65 38 l

More than half of the women earned under $10; very
nearly half the men (48.11 per cent.) earned over $15. The
largest single group of women in the detailed table from
which the above is condensed consists of those earning $10,
but under $12; the largest single group of men consists of
those earning $15, but under $20. Relatively this single
group of men is larger than the combined groups of men
earning $12 or over. As these figures are for the year 1911,
new comparisons must be made to take into consideration
the rapidly increased wage scales of the years of the Euro-
pean War.

x

COMMON RIGHT

John Porter worked in a shoe factory at Lynn, in the year
1890. He lived in a small cottage on Timpson Street and
supported a family of three children and a wife, who
assisted the support of the family by taking in washing.
The oldest daughter, Jane, worked in the stitching room at
the same factory at the bench, with the small weekly wage
of five dollars during busy seasons and three dollars in dull
times.

The youngest daughter, Anne, was only eight, and her
illness was a constant drain upon the weekly earnings of the
 

74 THE SHOE CRAFT

Porter family. The doctor said Anne should be sent away
to the country where the outdoor air, green fields, and farm
life would restore her weak constitution to health and
strength. In fact, the doctor said Anne had symptoms of
consumption, and it was only a matter of time before the
end would come, unless she went away.

John was an honest, hard-working man. He loved his
family and did the best he could to give them the bare
comforts and necessities of life. He was up every morning
at six o’clock, helping his wife about the house with break-
fast and getting ready his meager lunch to take to the fac-
tory. As the quarter of seven whistle blew he started on his
morning’s work for his daily grind.

On a certain Monday morning in December the snow cov-
ered the ground in a driving blizzard, the temperature fell
below zero, and as John forced his way against the sleet and
hail, which cut his face, he thought of his daughter Anne
lying sick at home, helpless because he could not save one
hundred dollars to send her where there was warmth and
comfort. He thought of his ten years of faithful service in
the shoe shop, where only one week during all these years
had he been laid up, due to a severe injury to his finger
which had been severely cut by a knife on the edge-trimming
machine. For John was an edge trimmer, working in a
non-union shop at a weekly wage of $18.00 during busy
seasons, with lay-offs during stock-taking and between sea-
sons of dullness at the factory.

He thought of the way he was giving his life, his existence,
his brain and physical strength, for the benefit of his em-
ployer, and the feeling surged through him that all his
powers were his own by Divine right. With bitterness
he reflected that he was selling his very life and soul for the
price of a dollar, without any hope of greater reward or
independence after years of ceaseless toil. He felt that all
his fellow-workers were helpless against the unseen power of
the grinding wheels which rang in his ears from the rafters
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 75

of the shop over his bench. Why was it not his common
right to demand justice and a just reward for the services
he was selling to the profit of the great business, of which
he was only a small incident, a machine which could be
thrown out at a moment’s notice and replaced with a new
one? He had never personally met the owner of the fac-
tory, which distributed shoes to every part of the world, but
he had seen him drive up to the office in his automobile, and
had wondered if he had any sick daughters. He knew that
his own daughter could be sent away for a trip to the coun-
try by the rich owner of the factory if he chose to do so.

As John neared the factory he noticed a crowd outside
talking in angry groups, and reaching the shelter of the
brick wall, he was accosted by the leader, who exclaimed,
“There’s a strike on, John; no work today.”

“What’s the cause of the trouble?” he inquired.

“We believe in uniting and organizing for protection for
a uniform wage scale and for better factory conditions. It
is our common right.”

“Yes, I agree with you, but what will become of us until
we are organized and we can settle with the manufacturer?”

“You will have to get along the best you can. We hold
our first meeting tonight at Chatham Hall. Be sure to come,
and remember there is to be no violence.”

John made his way wearily home, out of work, starvation
staring him in the face, his wages of Saturday night already
gone to pay the food bills and rent (none for dissipation, as
John never drank). As he entered the gate, which was al-
most buried in snow, he wondered how he could break the
news to his wife, Mary.

The week following was a sad one for the Porter family.
Jane was laid off in a few days on account of the closing
of the stitching room, and it was only after visiting all the
stores that she finally found a temporary position in a
candy store on Market Street. Her mother worked late into
the night at extra needle work, but John was unable to find
 

76 THE SHOE CRAFT

a position, as many of the shoe factories were reducing
help before stock-taking.

The first meeting of the strikers was held at Chatham
Hall, workmen from the different departments gathering to
discuss ways and means for betterment of working condi-
tions, more sanitary surroundings, better light, and more
protection from machines, but above all to consider the
matter of payment for work. A living wage-scale was
drawn up as applying to various departments throughout
the factory. Different speakers expressed their views, giv-
ing reasons for opposition to conditions which made a call-
ing-out of the men necessary. John was called upon to
give his views on the work in his department. He stated
he had worked for a number of years as an edge trimmer on
a weekly basis, but that no increase had been granted and
in his opinion none ever would be. He had approached the
foreman asking for a piece price, but was refused. He knew
that on a wage basis of two cents per pair he would be
in a position to produce better work and more shoes, which
would increase the profits of the business as well as enlarge
the field of the company. He stated that there was no es-
tablished standard wage-scale for work in the factory, but
by uniting the workmen could bring into existence an or-
ganization or union which would benefit both employer and
employe.

Two weeks were taken up by the men in perfecting their
plans, the factory meanwhile remaining closed. The owner
made several attempts to get the men back at work and also
to replace them with new men, but without success for the
fight was to be carried to the bitter end. The factory sales-
men on the road had been reading in the papers accounts
of the strike and were beginning to send in large orders for
immediate delivery. Telegrams began to reach the manu-
facturer stating that unless orders were filled, they would
be cancelled. It became necessary to compromise with
the workmen and start the wheels of the factory.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 77

An open meeting was set for Saturday evening at which
the owner agreed to meet the leaders of the strikers and
bring about a settlement, if possible. Police were stationed
outside Chatham Hall to quell any disturbance. As early as
seven o'clock the hall began to fill. The meeting was called
to order by the mayor of the city, who spoke on the great
suffering which had come to the workers through the closing
down of the plant, and the loss to the city by families which
would move to other places if the strike continued. He also
spoke of loss to the manufacturer on cancelled orders and
dissatisfied customers, as well as injury to other shoe indus-
tries in the city caused by newspaper reports of labor
troubles. He told of ten manufacturers who had moved
away from the city during the past few years, taking
millions in payroll to other communities, and closed by
pleading with both parties to consider the interests of each
other and to come to a settlement that night.

The first speaker for the firm was the president, who ex-
pressed pleasure at being able to present in person the facts
from the manufacturer’s standpoint. He said he believed in
unions of shoe workers on lines of co-operation and justice,
but did not approve of lock-outs and closing down of a
plant without fair warning being given as well as chance for
settlement and compromise. He claimed the men were mis-
taken in their statements that unsanitary conditions existed
and lives were in danger from machines, and asked for facts
in proof. He explained that wages were as high as the
grade of shoes would stand, and it would be impossible to
pay more on any part of the work. He hoped that the men
would go back to their positions, so that the orders in the
factory might be completed and new ones accepted.

His remarks were not received with enthusiasm, but on
the contrary the men expressed signs of dissatisfaction.
They felt that their wrongs were not to be recognized or
corrected, and as it was their turn to express themselves,
their spokesman, John Porter, rose to his feet. There was a
 

78 THE SHOE CRAFT

deathlike silence. The first words he uttered were, “We
demand our rights. We are human beings and not ma-
chines. Why should we be expected to work at the bench
as slaves, and then when we drop from exhaustion, receive
no recognition of our wrongs? Only two weeks ago James
Carlton, working as a rough rounder, was injured by a de-
fective machine and was taken to the hospital.” He stated
that wages had not been advanced for over two years, and
that the men had organized a union and a schedule of
prices which were ready for presentation. In closing, he
spoke of his sick daughter Anne, who would die unless she
was sent to the country. The men were ready to go back to
work, but it would have to be a union shop.

Other men spoke, and the meeting then adjourned, with
a promise from the president that he would meet represen-
ie of the newly organized union at his factory the next

ay.

About a week more elapsed ‘before a final settlement on
a compromise basis was arrived at and the doors of the
factory opened as a union shop. An increase of wages was
granted, and in a short time Anne was sent to the country,
for her father had won the right to earn a fair livelihood
according to his efforts.

Wuat Lynn NEEps.

A consolidation of the unions of Lynn under one head,
in my opinion, would benefit the shoe industry of the city.
The city with the smallest number of unions is always the
most successful, and consolidation of Lynn unions would be
the first step in the right direction.

Settlement of labor disputes by the State board of arbitra-
tion and conciliation is beyond doubt a fair way of deciding
differences between employer and employe which cannot be
adjusted by a local board.* Orders once placed in Lynn

* Extract from Lynn Item, November, 1913.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 719

by some of the largest shoe retailers in the country but now
given to other shoe centers could easily be secured again.
It is a fact that several hundred shoe manufacturers have
moved away, taking thousands of dollars in payroll from
the city. The highest grade women’s shoes are made in
Philadelphia and Brooklyn, N. Y., whereas they could be
made in Lynn. Many Lynn manufacturers have not been in
a position to fill orders through local difficulties. A few
manufacturers had a “peace pact” with certain unions, but
most of them did not, because there is such a large number
of unions, it is impossible to control the situation satisfac-
torily. The objections to the State board offered by the
worker seem to be that reduction in wages will result, but
facts do not prove this. The real questions which Lynn
must answer are:—

1. Why do shoe retailers buy shoes in other cities?

2. Why have manufacturers moved away to Boston,
Haverhill, and Everett and increased their business? (Five
manufacturers who have left are doing one-half the total
Lynn business of 1913.)

3. Why has it been necessary for a large number of
shoemakers to locate in other shoe centers?

4, Why has the earning capacity of those retaining posi-
tions in many cases been decreased 10 and 20 per cent.?

5. Why is it that other shoe manufacturers have not
moved to Lynn during the past two or more years?

6. Why has Lynn dropped to third place in 1915?

These are questions of vital interest to the future of Lynn
as a manufacturing city, a city of homes, and a retail city.
There must be co-operation between both parties for peace
and prosperity. Until employer and employe have an arbi-
tration board and a peace contract on the right basis,
and the manufacturers can go out in the open market and
sell their product and deliver orders on agreement, the tide
will not turn in the history of Lynn’s shoe industry. With
 

80 THE SHOE CRAFT

an unbiased arbitration board, Lynn will have more fac-
tories, increased business, higher wages, with better grades
of shoes selling in the big cities.

The following is a peace agreement which was con-
structed by the Board of Directors of the Industrial Bureau
of the Lynn Chamber of Commerce at the time I served as
Chairman, and which was considered and agreed upon by
a majority of Lynn manufacturers as the only agreement
possible in order to place the shoe industry of Lynn on a
firm foundation for the future of the city.

Section 1. The articles of agreement by and between..........
hereinafter called the union, and the firm of........... eigistibwee tuted ;
hereinafter called the manufacturer, shall be binding upon both
parties in the manner hereinafter outlined.

Sec. 2. The union agrees that during the life of this agreement
it will not institute, encourage, or in any other way sanction a strike
of its members in that part of the factory of the manufacturer
covered by this agreement for any reason whatsoever.

Sec. 3. The manufacturer agrees, in consideration of the advan-
tages contained in Section 2, that there shall be no lock-out during
the life of this agreement in that part of the factory covered by this
agreement.

Sec. 4. The union and the manufacturer agree, in consideration
of the benefits to be derived jointly and severally by them from this
agreement, that any differences that may arise which cannot be
mutually adjusted between them shall be referred to a local board -
of adjustment, upon either party giving notice to the other calling
for the appointment of such board. This board shall be composed of
five members; two to be appointed by each of the two parties to
this agreement within seven days from the receipt of the call for
such board, the fifth member to be selected by the other four, but
if they fail so to select and to secure the fifth member within seven
days from receipt of the call for the board, the executive committee
of the Lynn Chamber of Commerce shall select the fifth member, who
shall, in that case, be a non-resident of the city of Lynn.

Sec. 5. The decision of the local board of adjustment shall be
made within 14 days after its organization, unless an extension of
time is agreed upon between the parties hereto, and this decision
shall become effective and binding upon both parties to the agree-
ment at the expiration of seven days from the date of decision,
unless written notice to the contrary, by either party to the other, is
theretofore given.
een

ITS ORGANIZATION 81

 

Sec. 6. In case the decision of the local board of adjustment
given as outlined in Section 5, is rejected by either party in the
manner set forth in said section, the matter in dispute shall forth-
with be submitted to the Massachusetts State Board of Conciliation
and Arbitration for settlement, and its decision shall be binding
upon both parties, in accordance with the rules of the said State
board; and its decision shall become effective from the time the
matter in dispute was presented to the local board for adjustment.

Sec. 7. The manufacturer agrees that this agreement shall cover
work done in the organized departments of the factory where the
employees are members of the union that is party to this contract.

Sec. 8. The manufacturer agrees not to offer any opposition to
employees joining the union, provided, however, that the work of
soliciting employees for membership be done outside of shop hours.
This agreement is not to be construed in any sense as an obligation
on the manufacturer to compel employees to join the union.

Sec. 9. The union, being a voluntary organization, agrees to use
only moral suasion in obtaining members, and shall not in any way
penalize new or former members who may be secured.

Sec. 10. This agreement shall go into effect immediately upon
being signed by the two parties hereto, and shall continue in effect
until July 1, 1916, and thereafter from year to year, unless either
party shall give to the other party a notice in writing at least 60
days prior to July 1, 1916, or prior to the same date in any year
following, that it desires not to renew this agreement, in which case
it shall expire on the July 1st next thereafter.

There was a manufacturers’ association in Lynn. which
existed for a number of years. P. J. Harney was President
for much of the time and H. W. Sawyer was Secretary.
Various local matters were taken up from time to time, but
co-operation in important matters never existed among the
members and the association decreased in numbers until
only about 30 or 40 remained at the time they voted to
afhliate with the Chamber of Commerce in 1914, thereafter
ceasing to exist as a separate organization.

A study of conditions has shown me that it is most difh-

- cult to organize the Lynn shoe manufacturers, the spirit of
true friendship and co-operation seemingly being non-
existent there. Each man considers his neighbor a rival in
business who is putting something over on the other fellow.
 

82 THE SHOE CRAFT

In any successful organization the members must be loyal
to each other and stand by its platform, principles, and by-
laws. A small organization at first is most desirable, with
gradual growth. Also, closer relationship must exist be-
tween the employer and employe. A mutual study of local
conditions and requirements will bring both into closer
harmony. Many manufacturers believe that the workers
are always in the wrong, and so their idea is always to drive
the best possible bargain with labor, which has proven to
be a fatal mistake for both interested parties. Further-
more, the manufacturers of Lynn should work unitedly to-
gether giving their assistance to the smaller ones. Any plan
which is of benefit to one should be supported by all the
others, and no manufacturer should adopt a wage scale on a
certain grade of shoes unless it can be adopted by all other
manufacturers making the same grades of shoes. What is
of benefit for one is desirable for others and for the city’s
prosperity at large.

 
SeeP GP GSP CEP GHP

CHAPTER VIL.
ORGANIZATION OF SHOE MANUFACTURERS.

HE shoe industry in the United States
appears to have begun in Salem, where
Thos. Beard and Isaac Rickerman settled
in 1629, coming on the Mayflower on her
second voyage. They were shoemakers by
trade, the earliest on record in this country.
Ss g.| Another pioneer shoemaker was Philip
Kirtland, who settled in Lynn in 1636 and became so suc-
cessful as an instructor and a producer in the trade that 15
years later he was largely supplying Boston’s demand for
shoes, employing in his home shop a number of journeymen
“cordwainers,” known as shoemakers. He instructed others,
who took up the work in Salem and adjacent towns. In
Boston, James Everell built up a large business in making
shoes to order, employing and teaching journeymen for
nearly 50 years. A contemporary in the same trade was
William Copp, in North Boston, after whom Copp’s Hill
was named. The rapid growth in importance of this dis-
tinctive New England industry is shown by the incorpo-
ration by the general court, as early as 1648, of the “Boston
Company of Shoemakers.”

For 100 years after its establishment in America shoe-
making retained the methods which were in use for centuries
in Europe. The shoemaker at his bench cut with a knife the
upper and sole leather from the hide, stitched the upper
with awl and waxed end, hammered the sole on a lapstone,
and sewed it on by hand, turning out a complete shoe with
few tools other than hammer, awl, knife, and the wooden
shoulder stick with which he finished the edges.

 
 

84 THE SHOE CRAFT

Shoemaking as an industry, from its humble beginnings
in the first half of the seventeenth century, has become one
of the largest of all industries in the United States, accord-
ing to the census of 1910, employing 185,000 people with
an invested capital of nearly $200,000,000. Massachusetts
alone employed in the year 1911 an average number of
80,000 workers, representing nearly half of the total num-
ber for the country at large. If to these figures are added
workers employed in the closely allied boot and shoe stock
and shoe-findings trades, we have a total of nearly 90,000.
The first shoe-producing State has maintained her suprem-
acy for nearly three hundred years. Throughout two of
these centuries women have been closely connected with the
industry, and statistics of interest will be given in this
Chapter.

A census taken in Massachusetts in 1837 showed 15,366
women were employed in boot and shoe factories, while
only 1,475 women were in cotton mills. Most of the women
in the shoe industry did their work at home and not in
shops. In the seaboard towns of Massachusetts women
worked at stitching and binding shoes, while men were on
the fishing grounds; but during the stormy days of winter
the whole family made the finished product at home.

The importance of the boot and shoe industry in Massa-
chusetts has been stated. Of the number employed, 35 per
cent., or nearly 28,000, were women and girls, a greater
number than is employed at any other factory trade, except
the textile industries.

In the 40 years before the Civil War in 1861, the gain in
numbers of women shoe workers was rapid. Not only in the
Revolution but in the Civil War army shoes were made in
Massachusetts by women who, being compelled to live on
the scanty pay sent home from their men in the army,
stitched shoes destined for husbands and brothers in the
field. The habit of working in the shoe factory was not
broken by the close of the war. In 1870 20 per cent. of the
shoe workers in Massachusetts were women and girls; in
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 85

1900 this had grown to nearly 32 per cent. In the past ten
or twelve years, though there has been a large growth in
actual numbers, the proportion of women shows little in-
crease. In six of the North Shore towns, Lynn, Salem,
Beverly, Marblehead, Peabody, Newburyport, and Danvers,
there were about 165 shoe factories making the completed
shoe with an average of 19,000 operatives in the year 1911.
Peabody had but one shoe factory, but three cut stock fac-
tories and many tanning factories, employing some 4,000
persons. More women work at shoemaking than at any
other trade except textile industries, and the effect upon a
community is far reaching.

The latter part of the seventeenth century ushered in the
beginnings of the factory system. “Shoes being made by
the size, the constant complaint was that sizes were unfairly
marked; no two shoemakers had the same measure.
William Newman of Stamford, Conn., had a measuring
stick which he had brought from England, which it was de-
cided by the general court was a fair standard. Simple as
this would seem, it worked a revolution in the business.
Once a standard of sizes was fixed upon, individual orders
and measures were no longer depended upon solely, but
enterprising shoemakers began to make up a stock of shoes.
By 1700 the more enterprising had gathered groups of work-
men around them and began what would be fairly called
the manufacture of boots and shoes. The entire shoe was
made under one roof, but no longer by one man.” In
Randolph, Abington, Holbrook, and Quincy in the Old Col-
ony; in Lynn, Salem, Topsfield, Georgetown, and Haverhill
in Essex County; in Stoneham, Reading, and Marlboro in
Middlesex County; and in Milford, Brookfield, and Spencer
in Worcester County, shoemakers hired a few men and
gathered them into what was then called _a shop; some
cutting the leather, others fitting or sewing the uppers to-
gether, and still others putting the uppers and soles together,
or “bottoming” them, in much the same fashion as that
used when each shoemaker worked individually.
 

86 THE SHOE CRAFT

This partial division of labor was a success at once, and
soon the uppers were sent out to women and children to be
stitched together and bound. Little “eight by ten” shops
were scattered all through the “South Shore,” as Plymouth
County was then termed, as well as through Essex, Middle-
sex, and Worcester counties. The shoemaker with his sons,
and perhaps a neighbor, made a “team” which took the
fitted uppers and the under-stock from the manufacturer in.
a nearby town and bottomed the shoes or boots. One did
the lasting, another the pegging (the boys and sometimes
the girls were taught this branch), another the trimming,
and still another the edge setting, but all was done by hand.
When the shoes were made, they were taken to the factory
which, although considered at that time a wonder, was little
larger than the offices of some of our modern establishments.
Here they were finished, packed in wooden boxes, and sent
to the market. ;

Lynn soon became the center of this system and sent out
the cut parts of shoes to small shops throughout Massachu-
setts to be made up, paying the cutters and other skilled
workers 60 to 75 cents a day. The heels were wooden; the
soles were sometimes fastened with copper brads, but usu-
ally were sewed, the heavier ones welted, the lighter ones
turned. By 1754 the piece price had risen to 60 cents a pair
and wages by the week were $3.25. This, however, was
probably for the less skilled operators. In 1795 Lynn had
200 master shoemakers and 600 journeymen and appren-
tices. Their combined output was 300,000 pairs of women’s
shoes a year.

In 1915 the wages were raised to 25 cents an hour on
women’s help and 40 cents an hour for men’s. Cutters
secured $25.00 a week throughout the city on all grades
of shoes.

Lynn is recognized as one of the oldest shoemaking cities
of the country. In its early history the manufacture of
shoes became the leading industry. Edmund Bridges and
Philip Kirtland were the first Lynn shoemakers. They
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 87

settled in “Lin” in 1635, six years after Beard, Rickerman,
and Hewson, the first American shoemakers, came to Ply-
mouth and Salem. Beard was also a blacksmith, and when
trade was slack in his shop, he took his shoemaker’s kit and
went among the colonists looking for work. In 1750 John
Adam Dogyn, seeing the great possibilities in making shoes
in America, established himself in Lynn as a shoemaker.
Buying the best shoes in the home and foreign markets and
dissecting them, taking each part by itself and studying
carefully its construction, he began making shoes from his
own ideas, correcting the faults and improving on the
merits until at last he produced the best shoes in the coun-
try. Other shoemakers all over America came to Lynn to
study his methods of shoemaking, and he taught all those
who came to him to such an extent that he neglected his
own business and he died in the almshouse. It was a sad
ending, but he was the means of starting a business that
none had been able to equal in any other city up to that
time.

As already stated, the shoemaker up to the time of the
Civil War worked in small, ten-foot shops, his wife bound
the shoes for him, and his sons were his apprentices. But
when the Civil War came, many shoemakers left their work
and accepted the call for volunteers. The scarcity of work-
men made wages higher, but the introduction of machinery
equalized matters and the manufactured increase of shoes
soon became much greater. The introduction of the McKay
machine proved of great value in shoemaking, cheapening
the cost of production and increasing the output. The Hon.
Peter Neal, who was Mayor of Lynn, told President Lincoln
of the wonderful machine and that it sewed around the soles
of a shoe in sixteen seconds. Lincoln was surprised and
predicted that it would draw the shoe industry from farms
and country towns into cities and big factories, and it did.
The McKay machine was first tried in Lynn, as were several
of the other important sewing machines.
 

88 THE SHOE CRAFT

When, in 1846, Elias Howe of Boston invented the sewing
machine, he doubtless had in mind relief for the busy house-
wife, but some years later his invention was utilized in the
shoemaking shops for the stitching of uppers. The various
processes of shoemaking were now for the first time gath-
ered under one roof, and the “factory system,” as applied
to this particular manufacture, was complete. The heavy
machines, worked by foot, or sometimes by horsepower,
could be managed only by men. This fact for a time threw
women out of the industry, since the work on uppers, for
more than a century largely turned over to them, was now
done in the factory by men.

An invention of much importance, produced in Lynn by
J. W. Matzeliger, was a machine for lasting shoes. The in-
ventor was a McKay operator in Harney Bros.’ factory and
a born machinist. Hearing the lasters boast that no ma-
chine could be invented to do their work, and seeing that a
large amount of labor could be saved by lasting shoes with
a machine, he went to work in a small room over a cigar
store, working day and night to perfect his machine, even
picking up pieces of wood and cigar boxes in the streets to
help make his model, depriving himself meanwhile of the
necessities of life. His fellow-workmen laughed at his ef-
forts, but he persevered until his first model was built, al-
though it proved to be a failure. His second one brought
an offer of $50.00, and his third even less than that. While
working on a fourth model he died of consumption brought
on by his hard work. These machines and several others
brought on labor troubles. A workman who used to do
many parts now does only one small part in the process of
shoe making, and with the exception of cutting, hand sew-
ing, and, on fine shoes, hand lasting, all parts are done on
machines.

The growth of Lynn shoe industries has been remarkably
great. From a small beginning it has increased until in
1899 the boot and shoe industry, including cut stock and
findings, was valued at $24,981,631, and in 1910 at
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 89

 

$46,659,709. More than $140,000 weekly, or $7,600,000
per year, is distributed in wages under present conditions.
The tendency of wages has been to advance, and during the
busy seasons skilled help has been insufficient to supply the
demand.

In 1911 there were about 200 shoe manufacturers in
Lynn, employing some 32,000 workers, of whom about 40
per cent. were women. The number of factories has de-
creased, through failure and moving away, until in 1915
there were 88 left and in 1916 only 80. The total output
Lynn shoes in various years is as follows:—

1907 ....$32,892,280 1913 ....$33,907,687
1912 ....$35,000,000 1914 ....$33,077,000

The total output Haverhill shoes shows the following :—
1907 ....$17,500,000 1913 ....$27,500,000

The growth in factories manufacturing shoes in Lynn,
from 1893 to 1915, is interesting. In 1893 there were 154
factories. During the period from 1893 to 1913, twenty
years, 443 concerns started the manufacture of shoes, and
had all survived there would have been a total of 602. But
as only 103 remained in 1913, there is shown a death rate
of about 26 each year during the 20 year period. Statistics
show labor to have advanced in Lynn 8.9 per cent. during
the seven years previous to 1916.
 

 

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CHAPTER VIII.

ORGANIZATION OF SHOE RETAILERS.

   

= %@gye-~'isf HE history of the birth and growth of the
i $ |Boston Retail Shoe Merchants Association,

4N | lined in this chapter, with a partial history
<= of the National Shoe Retailers Association.

Organization of shoe retailers is not for the elimination
of the weak and the uniting of the strong, nor is it for the
benefit of the large merchant alone, but for the many and
for the uniting of all shoe merchants in friendship, mutual
co-operation, and assistance.

The first meeting of the Boston Shoe Merchants Associa-
tion was held in Boston Nov. 9, 1911, at the Boston City
Club, 15 men attending. The association was organized
and the following were elected charter members.

W. W. Willson E. W. Howe

J. H. Woodbury H. E. Hagan

J. Fischer F. W. Small

W. G. Lewis E. W. Burt

H. B. Scates M. E. Tucker

I. B. Howe C. H. Peterson
J. F. McNeil F. J. McMorrow

F. L. Jones

The following were elected officers: I. B. Howe (Walk-
Over Shoe), President; Burke Rivers (Hanan & Son), Sec-
retary; E. W. Burt (E. W. Burt & Co.), Treasurer. Annual
dues were fixed at $10.00. Trade papers were accorded
representation as associate members, without votes or dues.
 

92 THE SHOE CRAFT

 

Meetings were held nine times a year, including dinners.
The Constitution and By-Laws were adopted (see appendix
I, with amendments) and committees appointed, with E. W.
Burt as Chairman of the Membership Committee.

The principles of the Boston Association were outlined as
follows:—

A STATEMENT OF PRINCIPLES.
BOSTON RETAIL SHOE MERCHANTS’ ASSOCIATION.
(Printed 1914.)

1. To foster the retail shoe trade and promote a higher standard
among its members engaged in retailing in Boston and Massachusetts.

2. To secure freedom from unlawful and burdensome abuses
affecting the shoe business.

3. To protect an enlarged and friendly intercourse between its
members through sociability, and to draw closer together the legiti-
mate shoe merchants.

ie To protect its members from unscrupulous and dishonest em-
ployes.

5. To encourage and help all to be better retailers through or-
ganization work.

6. To co-operate with all who desire the welfare of the shoe trade
in Massachusetts, in particular, and the United States as a whole.

7. To help salesmen to become more efficient.

8. To co-operate with the shoe manufacturer for the study of
methods that will extend mutual benefits to the factory and the
retailer.

9. To disseminate beneficial information among our members, re-
sulting from committee work and discussion in open. meetings.

10. To devise ways and means to render better service to our
customers at a legitimate net profit, believing that we profit as we
serve.

11. To protect the public and the shoe merchants from untruthful
and fraudulent advertising and to give our assistance to enforcing
the Massachusetts advertising law.

12. To inform our members how to conduct their business on
lines of economy and saving, pointing out how expenses can be
controlled for the benefit of the business and the public.

13. To educate our members to sell better grades of footwear
and raise the standard of merchandise.

14. To plan out ways of conducting successfully hosiery, findings,
and repair departments in connection with shoe stores.

15. To oppose legislation by special committees, protesting against
unjust and injurious bills which will not benefit the people and the
shoe industry of the country.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 93

16. To co-operate and work with the Boston Chamber of Com-
merce in matters of importance to the retail shoe trade of Boston
and the State.

17. To use our best efforts to build up the National organization,
who look to us for support and assistance as representing the Massa-
chusetts retailers.

18. To extend an open hand to retailers coming to Boston from
other States, inviting them to our stores and doing all in our power
to make their visits pleasant and profitable.

19. Our watchword is “The Brotherhood of Shoe Men.”

E. W. Burt, President.
W. W. Wiitson, Secretary.

The first constructive work of the Boston Association was
to secure new members, and the Committee appointed cov-
ered the city to secure managers, proprietors, and buyers of
all legitimate shoe stores in the city, until at the end of the
first year the membership had doubled.

The second year of the Association (1913), was a particu-
larly active one. A change of officers elected E. W. Burt
President, W. W. Willson Secretary, and E. W. Howe Treas-
urer. Members were admitted from other Massachusetts
cities and towns, and at the close of the year 1913 the Asso-
ciation numbered about 50.

During that year the following work was accomplished :—

Boston Retain SHOE MERCHANTS’ ASSOCIATION.

President Burt’s Report for the Year Ending
November, 1913.

l. Increase of membership for the year, 31.

2. Increase of funds in the treasury.

3. Adopted a plan of mutual fire insurance among the
members.

4, Investigated and adopted ways and means to eliminate
the greatest abuse in the retail shoe business and unjust
claims demanded by customers on worn shoes.
 

94,

10.

ll.

12.
13.
14.

15.

THE SHOE CRAFT

Instructed members how to make a profit on rubbers.

Educated our members to sell lines of footwear allow-
ing a greater margin of profit.

Defeated the “Oldfield Pure Shoe” bill in the Massa-
chusetts Legislature.

Pointed out why the sale of lace shoes was more profit-
able than button shoes.

Opposed wholesale rubber houses selling rubbers at
retail, which worked out successfully.

Appointed a committee for salesmen efficiency for the
shoe clerks of Boston.

Assisted the Boston Chamber of Commerce to organize
the Advertising Vigilance Association, putting in ten
members from our Association.

Movement started for a State-wide organization.
Investigated the shoe repairing situation in Boston.

Committee appointed to establish early closing hours
during the summer months which was carried out suc-
cessfully.

Sent a delegation to the Convention of National Shoe
Retailers’ Association in New York.

Constructive work was begun for the benefit of our mem-
bers, as shown by the following extract from letters sent
out by the Boston Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association :—

1.
. Is your stock turning less than three times a year?

2
3.
4, Are you carrying too many shoes on large and small

Do you charge customers for wear on returned shoes?

Have you difficulty in securing competent clerks?

sizes ?
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 95

 

5. Are you selling more Kid and Calf shoes than Patent
and Tan?

6. What pays the most profit, Hosiery or Repair Depart-
ment?

7. What do you consider the greatest abuse in the retail
shoe business?

Eighty per cent. of the retailers stated that the greatest
abuse was claims demanded by customers for worn shoes,
and our members adopted a policy of charging $1.00 per
month for wear on shoes, believing that free wear on foot-
wear was not justified or warranted in the retail shoe
business.

The same officers of the Boston Association were elected
for a second term for the year 1914 and the work was con-
tinued with more energy. The President’s report of the
year ending 1914 showed the following :—

Joint Convention of the Boston Retail Shoe Merchants’

Association and the National Shoe Retailers’ Association at
the New England Shoe and Leather Fair in July.

Reorganization of the Boston Retail Shoe Merchants’ As-
sociation into a State association under the title of Massa-
chusetts Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association.

Outline of a plan devised by E. W. Burt for organization
of the New England States into separate State associations
of shoe retailers.

The Convention of the Boston Retail Shoe Merchants’ As-
sociation jointly with the National Shoe Retailers’ Associa-
tion was held at the New England Shoe and Leather Market
Fair, and was a remarkable demonstration of retail organi-
zation. Attending retailers came from all parts of the coun-
try and discussed problems of vital interest to the trade
with notable speakers and guests. Nearly 500 to 800 re-
tailers attended. The trade papers co-operated heartily in
assuring the success of the Convention.
 

96 THE SHOE CRAFT

A MASSACHUSETTS WELCOME.
By E. W. Burt.

[President of the Massachusetts Retail Shoe Merchants’
Association.]

Under the banner of organization and the watch-words of
“good-fellowship” and “progress,” the Massachusetts Retail
Shoe Merchants’ Association extends to all visiting retail
shoemen a royal welcome to Boston and the Shoe and
Leather Market Fair.

You are the honored guests of our State, our city, and the
Massachusetts retail shoe merchants. We are your brother
retailers in the trade and, following the first principles of
our organization, we extend to you greetings and friendship.

Co-operation and organization of shoe merchants has
raised the merchandising of shoes to a higher standard. By
these principles we have become better buyers and better
sellers, and our business has passed from a condition of
uncertainty to one of confidence on the part of both mer-
chant and public. Backed by the organization of dealers
throughout the country, honesty in advertising has educated
the public to “real value in shoes,” and separated the legiti-
mate from the dishonest merchant. Many shoe merchants
who had been unable to adjust their business to the chang-
ing conditions in the trade have, through the work of the
National Shoe Retailers’ Association and the numerous State
and local associations, become live, prosperous and success-
ful men.

Every one of the thirty thousand or more shoe retailers in
the United States should do his part by giving generously of
his support and assistance to those who are working to ele-
vate the standard of shoe merchandising. The big men of
broad ideas always find time for this great constructive
work. Every member of the scores of shoe associations that
cover the country has become greater in power and strength,
a happier and more progressive merchant whose business is
on a higher plane, whose customers are receiving better
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 97

shoes and more efficient service, and who has become a
“real” merchant with definite ideas and principles to guide
him, all resulting from the work of co-operation and
organization.

At the May meeting of the Association, a resolution was
presented to change the Constitution and By-Laws, dissolv-
ing the Boston City Association and organizing a Massachu-
setts State body. Notices were sent out in conformity with
the By-Laws.

The resolution was voted upon finally by the members of
the organization at the June meeting. It required a two-
thirds vote to ratify the amendment to comply with the
State laws, and it was found at the meeting that there were
three votes short of a quorum, but our attorney who at-
tended the meeting said that votes on the telephone would
be legal, so by calling up three members we secured their
approval, and at eleven-thirty P. M. the meeting adjourned,
after a unanimous vote had created a State organization of
shoe retailers, the first one in New England.

How THE MaAssacHUsETTS RETAIL SHOE MERCHANTS’
ASSOCIATION WAS ORGANIZED AND BuILt UP.

In order to have a clear understanding of the amount of
work involved in organizing the Massachusetts Association
of State Retailers it is necessary first of all to consider the
greatest obstacles which had to be overcome before there
was any hope of success. Let us consider them in their
order of importance.

. Membership.

Enthusiasm and interest.
Attendance at meetings.

Active and progressive committees.
Actual results.

Dues.

.
 

98 THE SHOE CRAFT

 

After having built up successfully an organization of
Boston city retailers, composed of all the legitimate shoe
stores and department shoe store dealers, our association
realized that it would be necessary for us to widen our field
and take in members from surrounding towns and other
cities throughout the State, otherwise we should in a short
space of time cease to be an organization.

Our records showed that out of a membership of about
fifty, which covered the city, about one-half attended our
monthly meetings only once or twice a year, interest began
to decrease, and our organization was controlled by a few
active men, with the result that future growth looked very
doubtful.

1. To State members, living at a distance, who could
not come regularly to the meetings, the greatest problem
was to prove the direct value to them of belonging to a
State-wide organization, showing the benefits which they
would receive and the returns for the dues which to many
had been repaid many times over during the course of a
year. The way to be a successful merchant, in any mercan-
tile business, is to keep at the front at all times. Business
methods are constantly changing and new ideas and systems
must be instituted if the merchant is to continue successfully
in business. It was the duty of our association to tell its
members the best way to be successful. Monthly reports
were issued by our secretary and mailed regularly to every
member. These reports contained information of the great-
est value and outlined the work of our committees appointed
to investigate and decide ways and means of solving prob-
lems in the retail shoe business. One of our plans was to
send to members the printed report issued by the Harvard
College School of Business Administration, outlining the
system used by leading shoe stores throughout the country.
Another committee report explained how to secure fire in-
surance with a twenty-five per cent. dividend policy, and
still another report outlined the shoe-repairing situation,
giving figures worth hundreds of dollars to any retailer.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 99

Notification of all shoe legislation of injury to the business
was received in time for their action. If it was impossible
for them to attend any meetings, the information received
by mail was sufficient reason for belonging to our associa-
tion. The prestige of belonging to a State organization
should not be overlooked by members of an association.

2. Enthusiasm and interest was the life of all our meet-
ings. Without that failure would result, and it was neces-
sary to bring before the association matters of such vital
interest to our business that live discussions were in order
at every meeting. There was work for everyone to do and
it was carried through successfully and quickly. The busi-
ness rules were strict and forceful, and the By-Laws lived
up to. Members were invited and urged to bring their prob-
lems before the meeting, and everyone had a voice and a
vote upon every question.

3. As stated before, personal attendance at meetings was
one of the most serious problems. Many men were unable
to attend certain nights in the week, others lacking interest
stayed away, but I have yet to see one member who had
attended a meeting who didn’t say he got his money’s worth
of valuable information and real social enjoyment. We in-
vited as our guests famous men in all lines of business and
well-known political men, who came and delivered addresses
on LIVE business topics of State and national interest.
Every man considered it an honor to meet these guests per-
sonally and hear their interesting and instructive speeches.
At every meeting a dinner was served, included with the
price of annual dues.

4. The motto of our organization was written in red
letters—“Be Alive.” Men were selected who wanted to
work and were interested in the success of the organization.
They were put on committees which covered all subjects—
membership, reception, entertainment, legislative, insurance,
repair work, rubbers, and many others. The chairman of
each committee was ready with his report at each meeting.
If he could not attend, he appointed a substitute who gave
 

100 THE SHOE CRAFT

 

the report in his place. If the committee appointed failed
to make good, it was dissolved and a new one appointed.

The leading merchants were selected in every city and
town in the State to act as delegates representing their local
district. Thir duty was to confer with the association re-
garding all matters of interest to the shoe business. This
resulted in co-operation and assistance from all parts of the
State and added great strength to the organization as a
whole.

5. In order to grow in numbers and strength actual re-
sults had to be accomplished through the work of the
organization. Affiliation with the National Body was of
importance, for federation meant representation at national
headquarters. All acts of our organization would be recog-
nized and voted upon by the main body.

Reports presented by our committees and endorsed by the
organization, such as early closing hours, dates for mark-
down sales, discounts, allowances, etc., must be lived up to
by each member, if they were to be of any real value. Com-
plaints presented by members at various meetings must be
worked out and solved by our committees. Honest advertis-
ing laws must be lived up to by all our members, and bills
before Congress and legislative committees be taken care of
by committees appointed at various times. The greatest
help should be given to weaker members of the organization
so that they might become prosperous and_ successful
merchants. —

6. The question of annual dues was determined by mem-
bership and attendance at meetings. The greatest amount
of dues for any State or city shoe association was placed
at $3 to $5 and in case of the national organization, where a
large per centage of the members do not attend, dues were
to be graded as shown. A dinner could be served at the
monthly meetings, at the above figures, and after deducting
current expenses sufficient funds would be on hand at all
times to run the organization.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 101

 

In conclusion, let the organization be constructed on a
broad plan, with fair dealing for everyone. Never overlook
the small details of the work, and at the close of each meet-
ing have the work finished and the records cleared. Re-
member organizations founded on friendship will last
forever.

At the annual meeting of the Massachusetts Association
in November, 1914, the following officers were elected for
the year 1915: W. W. Wittson, President; H. R. TERHUNE,
Secretary; R. Hurmacuer, Treasurer.

The retiring president, E. W. Burt, originated a plan to
organize all the New England States into associations, which
was completed during 1915 and is outlined further on.

During 1915 the work progressed rapidly, increasing the
membership to about 110. A large convention was given,
inviting shoe retailers from the New England States. It
was held jointly with the Boston Boot and Shoe Club.

At the annual election in November, 1915, the nominating
committee proposed again the name of E. W. Burt, and on
a ballot vote he was elected president by 55 out of 60
votes cast.

The first work of importance taken up by the newly-
elected president was to construct a pamphlet for the use
of members and other shoe retailers at large, for the educa-
tion of the public, and for instructions to salesmen in ad-
justing complaints and making satisfactory settlement on
worn shoes. Two months were devoted to this work and 12
tules were finally approved and accepted by the Association
as a body. The members attending the meeting at which
final ratification was passed, placed orders for 100,000
pamphlets for use in their own stores. This is the first
movement ever made by any shoe association to establish
a standard code of ethics for the retail shoe business, and it
will bring untold benefit to the trade. A copy of the pam-
phlet is given in a chapter all its own entitled, “Through the
Association to the Public.”
 

102 THE SHOE CRAFT

The second movement for betterment of the retail shoe
business was a meeting called by the President on March 12,
1916, at the Boston City Club, consisting of a banquet and
convention of the M. R. S. M. A. and the Boston Retail
Shoe Salesmen’s Association, on the following platform:

“The successful shoe merchant and the successful shoe salesman,
to become efficient, must believe in and practice co-operation through
organization.”

The convention was a success in every way. Over 350
attended, with ten speakers and guests. Salesmen from all
the stores of Boston and from other localities attended and
a spirit of co-operation was awakened between the merchant
and the salesmen, something never before thought possible
in the retailing of shoes. It was a movement to assist the
work of the salesmen’s association, outlined in a following
chapter.

 
CHAPTER IX.

ORGANIZATION OF THE NATIONAL SHOE RETAILERS’
ASSOCIATION.

N the year 1916 there were about 45,000
shoe merchants in the United States,

employing some 100,000 salesmen. These
(| stores retail annually a billion dollars’
worth of shoes, or an average of $23,000
for each store, including department
J stores. Twenty per cent. sell more than
$100, 000 worth a year, so that 80 per cent. of the entire
retail shoe business is done by small dealers. It can readily
be seen that a retailer must find it extremely difficult to
exist on a business based on $20,000 yearly sales, especially
when he is acting independently and without the help or
assistance of other retailers, or through retail associations.

Men in the same line of business in cities and towns did
not know each other, but were often bitter competitors,
whose ambition was to drive the other man out of business.
Under these conditions it was impossible to bring about
reforms and improvements, and the shoe business was fast
becoming one of the least profitable, through lack of co-
Operation and concerted action. Independently the shoe
merchant was helpless to solve the vital problems of in-
creased expenses, dishonest competition, such as dishonest
advertising, rapidly changing styles, adverse shoe legisla-
tion, incompetent salesmen, and countless other matters.
The idea of united action and organization of shoe mer-
chants started originally in several cities and towns, and not
with a national organization. Two of the oldest associations
are the Portland (Maine) Association and the Michigan Re-
tail Shoe Merchants’ Association, but the real start was not

is

i
i
i

 
 

104 THE SHOE CRAFT

made until a few retailers in Philadelphia called a meeting
in July, 1911, of the shoe merchants of the country, to
organize a National Shoe Retailers’ Association of America.
Nearly fifty shoe merchants responded to the call to meet
at Philadelphia and organized. These officers were elected:
A. C. McGowan, President; J. L. TwappELL, Secretary;
E. D. GILDERSLEEVE, Treasurer.

A board of governors and directors was chosen, with
annual dues of $10.00, and all shoe retailers, shoe buyers
in department stores, and shoe store managers were made
eligible for membership.

By-Laws were adopted (see Appendix II), and after two
days spent in working out future plans, the founders ad-
journed.

The first few years were difficult ones for the National
Association. Little interest was taken by the retailers at
large and the financing of the association was a serious
problem, but the foundations and principles were sound,
and gradually the membership increased throughout the
country. The spirit of organization spread, assisted by the
trade papers, and other shoe associations began to spring up
in different parts of the country, until in the year 1916 there
were in operation the following :—

Associated Shoe Co. of N. E., Hartford, Conn.
Birmingham Shoe Retailers’ Asso., Birmingham, Ala.
Brockton Retail Shoe Merchants’ Asso., Brockton, Mass.
Chicago Shoe Retailers’ Asso., Chicago, III.

Cincinnati Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Cincinnati, Ohio
Hartford Shoe Retailers’ Asso., Hartford, Conn.

Towa Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Atlantic, Iowa
Indiana Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Indianapolis, Ind.
Kansas Shoe Retailers’ Asso., Wichita, Kans.

Missouri Shoe Retailers’ Asso., St. Louis, Mo.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 105

 

Michigan Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Detroit, Mich.
Milwaukee Shoe Retailers’ Asso., Milwaukee, Wis.
Minneapolis Retailers’ Asso., Minneapolis, Minn.
National Shoe Retailers’ Asso., Philadelphia, Pa.
Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Buffalo, N. Y.

Napoleon Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Napoleon, Ohio
Ohio Shoe Retailers’ Asso., Columbus, Ohio
Pennsylvania Shoe Retailers’ Asso., Pittsburgh, Pa.
Pensacola Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Pensacola, Fla.
Philadelphia Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Philadelphia, Pa.
Rochester Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Rochester, N. Y.
Shoe & Leather Club, Dayton, Ohio

Sioux City Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Sioux City, Iowa
Texas Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Houston, Texas
Washington Shoe Retailers’ Asso., Washington, D. C.
Youngstown Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Youngstown, O.
Maine Retail Shoe Merchants’ Asso., Portland, Me.

New Hampshire Retail Shoe Merchants’ Asso., Manches-
ter, N. H.

Rhode Island Retail Shoe Merchants’ Asso., Providence,
R. I

"Vermont Retail Shoe Merchants’ Asso., Brandon, Vt.

New Haven Retail Shoe Merchants’ Asso., New Haven,
Conn.

St. Paul Retail Shoe Merchants’ Asso., St. Paul, Minn.

Connecticut Retail Shoe Merchants’ Asso., Hartford, Conn.

Portsmouth Shoe Retailers’ Asso., Portsmouth, Ohio

Worcester Retail Shoe Merchants’ Asso., Worcester, Mass.

Springfield Retail Shoe Merchants’ Asso., Springfield,
Mass.

Massachusetts Retail Shoe Merchants’ Asso., Boston, Mass.

Peoria Retail Shoe Dealers’ Asso., Peoria, III.
 

106 THE SHOE CRAFT

At first the National Association did not get as much
support from the shoe trade at large throughout the country
as was necessary for its growth, but slow advancement was
to be expected.

One of the direct benefits to the shoe merchant was the
work accomplished by a committee representing the national
retailers, who appeared at Washington in opposition to the
so-called “Pure Shoe” bill. This bill was not passed at
Washington, and a similar bill which came up twice in
Massachusetts was opposed by a committee of the Massa-
chusetts Association, headed by E. W. Burt. The story of
the “Pure Shoe” bill follows:—

Congressman F. D. Lindquist filed December 10, 1914,
and re-introduced in the House of Representatives, his “Pure
Shoe Bill,” H. R. 19,739, providing for the marketing of all
fabrics, leather, and rubber goods.

Section 12 stated that leather impregnated with glucose,
magnesia, or barium or excessive amounts of salts, acids, or
non-essentials in tanning, should be called “adulterated”
leather.

Section 14 stated that the term “seconds” under the act
should mean any article or fabric that had been mutilated
or damaged. That all shoes should be marked either “adul-
terated” or “unadulterated,” showing all constituents in the
counter, insole, outsole, middle sole, slip sole, and outer
surface of the shoe. Even if not composed of unadulterated
leather it must be marked. The original bill, filed Decem-
ber 18, had been changed slightly.

The shoe manufacturers and the retailers of the United
States appeared at Washington in opposition to this bill.
The committee was pretty well convinced that it would be a
great injury to the shoe industry and of no protection to
the public.

In Massachusetts it was introduced as the “Oldfield” bill,
but was defeated. Such a bill would reduce the supply of
leather by requiring its use in place of substitutes by manu-
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 107

facturers making shoes for the working classes, who must
have shoes at a price within their means, which is possible
only by using substitutes yielding greater maximum service
than if all leather of poor quality were used. Such a bill
would also place the control of leather in the hands of a
few, who would select their customers, thereby eliminating
competition in shoe manufacturing.

New England was particularly interested in this bill, be-
lieving that it should not only be considered seriously but
opposed by shoe manufacturers, shoe retailers, tanners, and
distributors of leather, who should be interested in keeping
the price of leather within bounds, preventing any further
advance on one of the greatest necessities of life. Shoe
associations therefore did their part and the bill did not
pass.

The Convention of the National Shoe Retailers Associa-
tion in New York, on January 10, 1914, was of great import-
ance to the Association. A resolution had been prepared to
be presented by E. W. Burt of the Boston Association, and
forwarded to Secretary A. H. Geuting, relative to an amend-
ment to the Constitution changing membership dues, which
were $10 for all members, to a graded affiliation list. Fol-
lowing is the resolution:—

That the Constitution and By-Laws of the National Association be
amended to read as follows:—
1. Regular members in good standing, having full voting power, to

pay $10 per year.

2. Any retailer in the United States, joining as an Association
member without voting power, at $5 per year.

3. Any member of local, city, or county shoe associations can
become affiliated members of the National Shoe Retailers’ Associa-
tion at $2 per member, provided 50 per cent. of the local association
joins.

The above resolution was passed unanimously by the
National Shoe Retailers’ Association.

In 1915 another change in the Constitution was made
when the following resolution was presented by E. W. Burt
 

103 THE SHOE CRAFT

at the Convention of the National Shoe Retailers’ Associa-
tion :—

Any city or State shoe retailers’ organization which desires member-
ship in the National Association may apply for the same and, when
accepted, such association, upon the payment of $1 per capita for
each member, becomes an affiliated body, with a voting power of one
for every ten members.

The affliated membership dues were $2 for each member,
and since the last convention some eight or ten State and
city associations had joined, but it was felt that under the
$1 membership basis all of the 27 or more associations then
organized would join at once.

This resolution was passed unanimously and E. W. Burt,
chairman of the Membership Committee, stated that before
1916 every State in New England would be organized.

The revised Constitution of the year 1917, now in opera-
tion, is given in Appendix II.

The first association to affiliate under the resolution
adopted in 1915 was the Massachusetts organization. The
work of organizing the New England States was then begun.
The first gunshot was fired into the Pine Tree State of
Maine. The old Portland Association merged and became
the Maine Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association on February
16, 1915, with a membership of about 30.

The work then spread to the State of New Hampshire,
and at Manchester some 30 men joined hands and organized

the New Hampshire Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association on
March 9, 1915.

The next organization was the New Haven (Conn.) Asso-
ciation, where 21 men organized at the Chamber of Com-
merce, on March 18, 1915, the New Haven Retail Shoe
Merchants’ Association.

The work continued into the State of Rhode Island, and
on March 23, 1915, some 18 men organized the Rhode Is-
land Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 109

The next State, and the most difficult, was the Green Moun-
tain State of Vermont, where on April 9, 1915, at Rutland,
25 men organized the Vermont Retail Shoe Merchants’
Association.

The last State was Connecticut. On April 20, at Hart-
ford, the Hartford Retail Shoe Dealers’ Association backed
up the proposition, and the shoe merchants, some 100
strong, organized the Connecticut Retail Shoe Merchants’
Association, the last in the chain of New England States.
Affiliation with the National was passed in nearly all State
associations, putting in about 400 members.

Having organized six States successfully, E. W. Burt, who
had been appointed official organizer for the National Asso-
ciation, then took up the principal cities in Massachusetts,
selecting first Worcester, which was organized November 23,
1915, with a charter membership of 21, comprising nearly
one-half the shoe merchants of the city. Springfield, Mass.
was then organized on December 7, 1915, with a charter
membership of 18.

Following is a list of Associations organized, up to 1916,
by E. W. Burt:—

Nov. 9, 1911:

Boston Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association.
June 12, 1913:

Massachusetts Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association.
Feb. 16, 1915:

Maine Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association.
March 9, 1915:

New Hampshire Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association.
March 18, 1915:

New Haven, Conn. (city), R. S. M. A.
March 23, 1915:

Rhode Island Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association.
 

110 THE SHOE CRAFT

April 9, 1915:

Vermont Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association.
April 20, 1915:

Connecticut Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association.

Nov. 23, 1915:
Worcester, Mass. (city), R. S. M. Assn.
Dec. 7, 1916:
Springfield, Mass. (city), R. S. M. Assn.
March, 1916:
Delaware Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association.
June 5, 1915:
Boston Retail Shoe Salesmen’s Association, 100 mem-
bers.

 
Gap GP SEP SEP SEP

CHAPTER X.

ADDRESS BY E. W. BURT.
CONVENTION OF NATIONAL SHOE RETAILERS’ ASSOCIATION.
January 11, 12, 1916.

%|HAVE been asked to read a paper on
& | “How to Organize,” which is a subject of
i {vital importance to the future growth
”|of the national body and the shoe retailers
throughout the country.
—1E B® eh | 1 have always considered myself the
LS oees/2, | servant of the national organization, a
-spokesman to whom has been permitted the honor of going
into the unorganized fields to persuade and urge the in-
dividual shoe retailers to amalgamate into bodies of shoe-
men under the banner of shoe organizations.

It is but natural for men to indulge in the illusions of
hope. We are apt, however, to shut our eyes to the possi-
bility of success, and say it is impossible, but this is not the
part that we must take in this arduous task that is before us.
The question which must be decided by you, yourselves, is,
—shall we lay down our arms and admit defeat, or take up
the sinews of war and wave our proud banner from the
fortress of victory?

For my part, let me say that the time for action has come.
It is a question of the utmost importance to the National
Shoe Retailers’ Association. Let me ask you, what needs the
National Association to put it in the front rank of associa-
tions in this country? Is it not strength in numbers, backed
up and endorsed by affiliated State and city organizations in
every section and community in this country? It is possible

  
 

112 THE SHOE CRAFT

to do this, if you will, but until that has been accomplished
and the time has come when you can point with your
finger to a solid, organized United States, north, east, south
and west, the National Shoe Retailers’ Association will not
have fulfilled its great mission.

Organization of shoe retailers is in its infancy. There are
shoemen today who have been doing business for 40—yes,
50—years, who do not know what the words mean and
I speak only the bare truth when I say New England
has been for 50 years the most barren section of the
whole American continent. Here is a field upon which the
seed of organization has died as soon as it was sown, be-
cause the spirit of our New England forefathers, which was
created by organization, had never entered into the business
world of shoe retailing.

The creation and true foundation of all shoe-trade asso-
ciations depend upon the same influence which controls all
fraternal orders, viz., “friendship.” The sensitive touch of
the master hand must call into being the controlling princi-
ples of life, friendship, co-operation and mutual help and
impress upon the doubting mind of the retail merchant that
only by shoe organization can the merchandising of foot-
wear and his business in particular be placed on a higher
plane, covering a broader field, and bringing to him un-
bounded benefits, which have always been impossible to
him as an independent shoe retailer.

The man from the “outside” is in a far better position to
meet and overcome the stubborn opposition of a doubting
mind,—the man who can swing into line the unbeliever,
who, in the end, becomes the staunchest supporter by elim-
ination of personal differences which will often arise against
aman at home. This has been true in every State and city
organized in New England.

Opposition is the God-given right of every man, but there
is no sane reason for opposition to organization, and the
doubting minority must in the end be over-ruled by the
confident majority. The man from Vermont who wrote me,
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 113

 

“You can’t get ten men in the State together,” must be
shown that it is possible to bring 50, and again the man in
Rhode Island, who declared with a loud, commanding voice,
that 18 men was not a representative gathering of the State,
and that he “moves to adjourn,” had to be forcibly shown
by the chairman that ten can organize a State organization.

The first call sent out by letter from the outside organizer
must be followed up by a similar one from a retailer in the
section to be organized, backed up by the trade papers. A
centrally-located visit to all the shoe merchants in a city the
day before will result in more good than any other plan.
In the city of Worcester a carefully laid campaign brought
out one-half of all the shoe merchants. A day previous
to the meeting telegrams and telephone calls complete the
campaign. The organizer has chosen a speaker to bring
with him, and the meeting opens.

As I was elected chairman at all but one of the eight
associations organized, the rules of the convention were
carried through on similar lines. Your one thought above
all others must be “Failure is impossible.” Your strongest
assets are courage, confidence, action.

Do not be alarmed when the retailers assemble and look
at the chairman with suspicion as they ask, “Why are we
here?” “What do we organize for?” “What do we get
out of it?”

Very natural questions, to be sure, and easily answered
by the man who knows the inside workings of shoe associa-
tions. ‘We are here to become acquainted—to know our
brother retailers.” “We organize to help ourselves and
each other.” “You get out of it just what you put into it
and the benefits come from your deeds and accomplish-
ments.” These are answers which strike the truth home to
the assembled retailers.

A spirit of enthusiasm for action sweeps through the
house and at the psychological moment the chair calls for
a motion to organize, which is carried, not often unani-
mously, the majority is sufficient to bring into existence the
desired association. The order of business proceeds and
 

114 THE SHOE CRAFT

every man approving has the honor of being a charter
member.

Have your order of business prepared in advance. The
local retailer who assists must be instructed fully as to the
intents, purposes, and final results. The information given
the assembled retailers by the organizer must be instructive,
constructive, and practical. The work accomplished by
other shoe associations must be brought out, showing actual
results and benefits of organization in other States. Every
argument, criticism, or objection must be met instantane-
ously by the organizer with a decisive answer.

For example, “In Maine,” a retailer stated, “I understand
we are organizing to control prices.” In New Hampshire
another retailer came to object to organization for the pur-
pose of controlling fire insurance. Remember it is not an
easy problem to overcome the objections of men who have
been radically against organizations for 40 years, but the
work has begun, a name is selected, which in every case has
a similar heading with substitution only of the name of the
State or city. The officers are chosen by a nominating com-
mittee and elected at once. Dues are settled, as well as dates
of meetings. By-Laws and membership committees are ap-
pointed, new business is taken up, and within the short
space of two hours time, adjournment is in order and the
work is done.

In all the work of forming organizations the greatest sat-
isfaction to me has been to see the look of pleasure which
shines from the faces of the members of the young asso-
ciation when congratulations are passed around and the
seeming impossible has happened. The burden of the shoe
business has been lifted, as it were, from their shoulders, as
the idea sinks into their minds that differences of the past
have been forgotten and a new life begins for the shoe
retailer.

A rising vote of thanks to the organizer expresses far
better than words the appreciation of the efforts which made
it possible to join the ranks of the organized and add one
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 115

more victory to the cause of the National Shoe Retailers’
Association.

The results of organization in New England, with a record
of five State associations in seven weeks’ time, should be a
great incentive to other retailers throughout the country to
go out and do likewise. If this be accomplished, I shall
feel that my efforts for the welfare and good of the National
Shoe Retailers’ Association have not been in vain, but have
been worth while.

RETAIL SHOE STORE SALESMEN TELL Mercuants WuHy
THEY ORGANIZE.

At the January 17th monthly dinner of the Massachusetts
Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association Messrs. D. G. Twiss,
Ralph Studley, and H. E. Currier, of the Executive Com-
mittee of the Boston Shoe Salesman’s Association, re-
inforced the favorable attitude towards their organization
held by Massachusetts shoe merchants, and their papers
were enthusiastically received.

First Vice-President D. G. Twiss of the salesmen’s asso-
ciation said in the course of his paper:—

“Goop WILL anp ENCOURAGEMENT NECESSARY.

“The trade journals have told us our organization is a
credit to us; that for three years we have worked patiently
to encourage Boston shoe salesmen in the development of
higher ideals; and that we have exercised diplomacy and
created sound principles. What we have always done has
been not to irritate Boston merchants, but to secure their
confidence and good will by developing in the salesmen of
Boston self-respect and a better knowledge of salesmanship.
Our Association feels that the first step toward getting a
man out of a rut is to get him thinking. We accordingly
have built our association with care, that we may gain your
attention and finally your good will.

“Your good will will reflect itself in the effort you make
to encourage your men to become members of our associa-
tion. We have tried to make it plain and a point of per-
manent principle that we are not a union of organized labor.
 

116 THE SHOE CRAFT

We ask to be a power only in educating our members in
shoe salesmanship and in raising the moral standard of the
men. The shoe salesmen of Boston have capacity and
ability. Ambition is not wholly secured by raise of pay.
On the contrary, you can secure more by an occasional
‘well done,’ than in any other way. Encourage initiative
by listening to what your men tell you.

“The real question that you all want to ask is, ‘Now that
you have been endorsed by the Massachusetts Association,
what do you propose to do to bring about this improvement
in shoe salesmen?’ We hope that your salesmen can feel
that in joining this organization it is with your wish and
that by so doing they will not incur your displeasure. En-
courage the clever salesmen to join us for the benefit of the
less clever. After the spirit in a man has been aroused, we
hope to create a text-book for shoe salesmen that we all can
follow—a uniform course. We want to instruct in the meth-
ods of shoemaking; how to tell the various leathers; how
to tell hand work from machine work; how to justify to 4
customer the added expense of hand work; how to measure
feet for custom orders; how the repair man can help out
the salesman; how to make an anatomical study of the
foot, and many other fundamentals.

“We should like to feel that we can call upon the mem-
bers of the Massachusetts Retail Shoe Merchants Association
for their knowledge and advice. We should like to see you
at our meetings and taking part in our discussions. We are
all working for the same end—the better selling of shoes at
retail. Be optimistic with us, and in one year we want to
come back and ask you just this: ‘Have we made good?’ ”

The applause that greeted Mr. Twiss’ remarks showed a
most encouraging approval of his sentiments, and the paper
of Studley, the next speaker, was followed with evident in-
terest. Mr. Studley said in part:—

“HISTORY AND AIMS OF ORGANIZATION.

“We are extremely glad of the opportunity to place be-
fore you a few facts regarding our association, the purposes
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 117

of which may not be fully appreciated by many of you.
One of the hardest problems our organizers faced was how
to meet and overcome the unfavorable attitude caused by
the forcible methods of an earlier organization of shoe sales-
men which proved to be a failure because of the fact that
it was nothing more nor less than a union.

“Qur constitution provides that this organization is not
in any sense a union, and does not seek to interfere with or
regulate the hours or conditions in places of employment.

“Three years’ time has now been spent in order that the
men might meet and fraternize for the improvement of the
retail shoe salesmen through organization.

“Cut-PrRicE STORES EXcLupep.

“At the time of our second banquet, early in 1915, the
first real organization work was begun, and a committee,
chosen with the assistance of your present executive, Mr.
Burt, and former President Willson, drew up a constitution
which was accepted in May, 1915. The merchants were
then asked if the association might with their consent invite
their salesmen to join, and to these inquiries not a single
objection was raised. At the June meeting of last year we
closed our charter with 120 members, and since that time we
have grown to the present roster of 170 members. This
membership has been carefully chosen from those stores
doing a legitimate business and we have excluded the cut-
price store. Too much credit cannot be given to trade
papers which were in close sympathy with our work, and
each step forward has been carefully considered and has
practically received the endorsement of your body.

“Education is our watchword. It is the one work that
justifies our existence, and our purpose here tonight is to
ask your co-operation; to have you send your men to us
for that purpose; and to realize that the result will be for
your material benefit as well as our own.”

Mr. Currier followed with a paper summarized below :—

“Pian EpucatTion THROUGH LECTURE COURSES.

“The purpose of our organization is co-operation with the

employer and all interested in the sale of shoes in order to
 

118 THE SHOE CRAFT

 

raise the standard of shoe-selling and the art of shoe-fitting;
to benefit by the acquaintance of the best salesmen and
fitters in the association; to aid those who wish to make
themselves more valuable to their employer; to create a
bureau of information to which shoe merchants may apply
for shoe salesmen, thus obviating the mercantile agency
fees for securing positions; and to secure the confidence of
the employer and stimulate social life. The endorsement of
this association means that the applicant’s record has been
examined carefully and that only square, honest workers
will be recommended.

“One of your members a short time ago made the state-
ment for publication that of all articles of merchandise,
footwear was sold the least intelligently. This thought was
uppermost in the minds of our officers many months previ-
ous to the adoption of our constitution and that therefore
our members must educate themselves to a higher standard
of efficiency; a more complete knowledge of the manufac-
ture of shoes, leather, and lasts, and their application to
each individual foot, and a knowledge of foot anatomy and
of the method of fitting arch-supports and appliances for
the relief of foot troubles. In order to secure this education
we propose to devote our meetings in a large measure to
lecture courses by the best men obtainable on the various
subjects to our business.

“Are you willing to lend your assistance to this educa-
tional work?’ is the question we are asking you this eve-
ning. ‘Are you willing to assist us in putting Boston on the
map as one city in the Union where shoes are sold intelli-
gently?’”

The case of the Boston Shoe Salesmen’s Association, as
ably presented by their representatives, is worthy of serious
consideration and the encouragement of every shoe mer-
chant as an example of what may be done through intelli-
gent organization; and the ideals, energy, and initiative
shown will undoubtedly be heartily endorsed and adopted
by progressive shoe merchants and salesmen throughout the
country.
CHAPTER XI.
THROUGH THE ASSOCIATION TO THE PUBLIC.

NE of the most valuable bits of Associa-
tion work is in the utility of collective
publicity of members of Association to the
public. This can be done in a number of
ways, through co-operative advertising in
the newspapers on some one major sub-
s ject. For example, the opening of a
season and emphasis on some one general commodity.
If the men agree that white footwear should be popular,
then that might be the topic. Or the subject might be
“High Shoe Day,” “Low Shoe Day,” or “Dress Up Week.”
The cost of the advertisement can be pro rata between the
stores, and it is best to do so on the basis of so much per
thousand dollars in sales per year. This gives the small
merchant a proportional publicity at a proportional
expense.

When it comes to publicity of a nature direct to the
consumer who enters the store, the circular as prepared
by the Massachusetts Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association
went into a distributing value of one million copies. The
same being endorsed by many of the State Associations
throughout the country.

To give you a graphic idea of what points were covered,
we enumerate the twelve paragraphs.

What to expect and what not to expect in footwear, and
the reasons:

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FOREWORD

Did you ever think that your shoes are subjected to
harder wear and more abuse than any other part of your
 

120 THE SHOE CRAFT

apparel? Imperfections in shoes may occur, and will not
always develop until worn. This booklet is given you with
a desire for mutual co-operation between you and your
shoe merchant. These twelve rules are suggested as a basis
for adjustment of complaints, and have been compiled and
endorsed by the Massachusetts Retail Shoe Merchants’
Association, Inc., Boston, Mass.

NumBEeR ONE
SHOE VALUES

Purchase best grades of footwear. It is economy to
obtain high-grade leather and skilled workmanship, which
will prove more comfortable and give better service. Save
money, time and trouble by buying two or three pairs;
then alternate in wearing, and your boots will hold their
shape better, wear longer and be more satisfactory in every
way. When shoes prove lacking in service it is obviously
unjust to ask your dealer to replace same with a new pair,
as it is only fair for you to pay for the wear obtained.

NuMBER Two
LEATHERS.

Glazed Kid is the most comfortable, and wears.

Gun Metal or Mat Calf is heavier, not as easy, but
adapted for rough usage.

Most kinds of Tan Leathers lose their good looks if wet,
and should be worn only in dry weather. The surface is
often burned by acid polishes and friction from the cloth
in the hands of the boot polisher; in fact, all leathers are

damaged from these causes. Tan leathers are not guaran-
teed.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 121

Patent Leathers are for dress wear. This leather is not
guaranteed against cracking or peeling.

NuMBER THREE
FOOTWEAR.

Heavy for rough wear, medium weight for the street,
business or office. Ladies’ thin turns are for dress wear,
and not intended for wet weather or constant outdoor use.

Cutting or defacing of uppers by wearing shoes in rough
places is abuse on your part, and your merchant should
not be held responsible for damages of this nature.

NumsBer Four
FITTING.

Please remember that a size mark in a shoe does not
indicate uniformity of size or width, and you may observe
a variance in the fittings; but should you insist on a fitting
“too short or too narrow,” such fact ought to be plainly
stamped on the linings, and you cannot in fairness claim
any redress thereafter.

Shoes worn out of doors or soiled on the bottoms are
Valueless to the dealer, and cannot be exchanged for a
new pair or full credit given, as they are unsaleable.
Hence the necessity of exercising great care in selection
and in fitting.

NumsBer Five
Button HoLes anp EYELETS.

When button holes rip out, uppers tear, or eyelets pull
away from the leathers, on account of unusual strain, or
when back stays wear out from friction of the skirts of
 

122 THE SHOE CRAFT

 

women or trousers of men, it is only fair for your dealer
to repair these items at a reasonable charge, and—im-
portant—your shoes should be repaired by the store at
which they were purchased, as every dealer realizes that
it is necessary to repair shoes properly, as “cobblers” are
liable to damage the stitching, causing rips.

NuMBER SIx
Upper CRACKS AND SOLE Rips.

Uppers will harden and crack from perspiration, and
your shoe merchant cannot be held responsible for this
fault. Rips in soles or uppers can easily be repaired at
small expense. Their occurrence is unavoidable. You
should allow your dealer to repair same.

NumMBER SEVEN
CounreERSs.

To prevent counters from running over or losing their
shape, have heels repaired as soon as the first lift is worn
down.

Wood heels have leather top lifts, and should never be
allowed to wear below the leather.

Numser EIcHtT
INNER SOLES AND LININGS.

The heat from your feet, or wearing boots in wet weather,
will cause inner soles to become depressed in spots under
the ball joints or toes, causing lumps. In such cases, your
shoeman can remove these lumpy places as often as re-
quired, and, as the shoes are not at fault, you should not
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 123

make claims for allowance owing to this condition. Linings
will stretch, causing wrinkles, which can be removed by
shrinking; but after the shoes are worn you should not
expect new shoes on this account. The linings on the in-
side at the counters will wear out from perspiration and
friction. Retailers are glad to repair same at moderate
charges.

Numser NINE
Burnt LEATHER OR SOLES.

When damp or wet, all leathers burn from contact with
the slightest heat. Don’t expect your dealer to re-sole
“burned shoes” without charge. When shoes are wet, put
them on a shoe tree to dry, and thus preserve their shape.

Numser TEN

When soles are defective, it is only fair adjustment for
you to pay your dealer for service received.

NuMBER ELEVEN
Fancy or Novetty Boots.

All shoes made from delicate colored leather or fabrics
in tops or vamps are luxuries, only intended for dress wear,
and not for service. You should not ask your dealer for
any guarantee on these “millinery shoes,” realizing that
wear is a secondary consideration.

NuMBER TWELVE
Semi-ANNUAL CLEARANCE SALES.

These sales are made to dispose of odd sizes and dis-
continued lines, and customers are requested to regard all
sales as final.
 

124 THE SHOE CRAFT

FINISs.

We trust the information herein contained may prove
helpful to wearer and dealer alike, and reduce the economic
loss which has gone so far as to become a hardship and a
burden to your shoe merchant.

Respectfully submitted,

MassacHusETts RETAIL SHOE MERCHANTS’
AssociaTIon, INc.,

Boston, Massachusetts

 
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CHAPTER XII.

A “UNION CARD” OF THE 18TH CENTURY.

An interesting and curious old certificate of membership
in one of the 18th century craft Guilds has found its way
from Austria into America.

The parchment is in the form of a diploma, or recom-
mendation, and might well be termed “A Union Card of
the Eighteenth Century,” showing the uphill road that ap-
prentices had to follow before being admitted to the fellow-
ship of journeymen.

The diploma, which is here reproduced, freely translated,
reads as follows:

We, the sworn chief and other master-workmen
of the honorable trade of shoemakers in the interior
Austrian capital of Freyburg in Breisgau, hereby de-
clare that the present journeyman by name of Faull-
meyer, born in Lithdenwiller, near Freyburg, 21
years of age, and of medium stature and black hair,
has worked for us here 25 weeks, and during that
time conducted himself in a surpassing faithful,
industrious, quiet, peaceful and honest manner, as
behooves every journeyman, to which we certify and
therefore beg of all our co-masters to assist him ac-
cording to usage among mechanics. Date Freyburg
11 month A. D. 1782.

Master, where the journeyman worked,

JOHANNES DRITZELER

Chief Master
(Signature)
(Seal)

The form of industrial organization known as the Guild
first appeared in the 12th century, and Dean Swift Gay of
Harvard’s Graduate School of Business says that it was an
unbidden and unwelcome innovation. The guild’s early
 

126 THE SHOE CRAFT

efforts were in the direction of securing inclusive legislation
—authority that would bring all the workers of a particular
craft into one membership in entire control of the market.
This apparently coincides with most trade unions today,
although from the recommendation contained in Faullmey-
er’s “union card” it is safe to assume that he did not engage
in strikes or picketing. Even if he had been so inclined the
master journeyman and the chief master had him and the
other apprentices more under their thumb than is possible
now.

Gradually, however, these old guilds managed to secure
an almost dominant political position, at least within the
city and town organizations. Later we find them taking an
active interest in legislation, so as to secure to themselves
exclusive privileges. Then in the 15th and 16th centuries
they are acting on the defensive, striving to maintain their
privileged position against all opposition.

It is believed that the guilds were of French origin, but
it is a fact that they were known on the continent and in
England as far back as the end of the 12th or the beginning
of the 13th century. The Guild Hall in London stands to-
day as an historic example of the place where shoemakers
of former days used to gather.
OEP GHP GHP SGP SP

APPENDICES

I. MaAssaAcHUSETTS CONSTITUTION.

ARTICLE I.

Section 1. The name of this Association shall be the Massachu-
setts Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association.

Sec. 2. The purpose of this Association shall be to promote a
higher ethical standard of trade among its members, to endeavor to
lessen or eliminate, through organization, burdensome abuses affect-
ing the shoe business and the general public, for the dissemination of
beneficial information, and through sociability and friendship to draw
closer together the legitimate shoe merchants of the State of Massa-
chusetts and New England.

ARTICLE II.

Section 1. The officers of this Association shall be President, 1st
Vice-President, 2nd Vice-President, Secretary, and Treasurer, and also
an Executive Committee who shall be elected annually.

Sec. 2. The Executive Committee shall consist of eleven members,
two of whom shall be the President and Treasurer and nine members
who shall be elected at the annual meeting.

ARTICLE III.

Section 1. The regular meetings of this Association shall be held
in the city of Boston on the second Tuesday of each month, except
July, August, and September, for the transaction of general business
and discussion of subjects of interest to the members and our cus-
tomers. The annual meeting shall be held in the city of Boston,
on the second Tuesday of November of each year.

Special meetings may be called by the Executive Committee on the
written request of twenty members in good standing, for the transac-
tion of State and Boston Association business, and ten members in
good standing may likewise cause a special meeting to be called for
the transaction of business concerning Boston and the immediate
vicinity only.

Sec. 2. Fifteen voting members shall constitute a quorum for
transacting business affecting the city of Boston and twenty-five voting
members shall constitute quorum for transaction of State and New
England Association business.

ARTICLE Iv.
Section 1. At the regular meeting preceding the annual meeting,

the President shall appoint a committee of five members, three of
whom shall constitute a quorum, who shall nominate a list of officers
 

128 THE SHOE CRAFT

to serve for the ensuing year. The officers shall be elected by ballot
by a majority of the members present at the annual meeting.

Sec. 2. The members shall fill by ballot all vacancies among the
officers or in the Executive Committee that may occur between any
two annual elections. Officers so elected shall hold office until the

next annual election.
ARTICLE V.

Section 1. The President shall preside when present at all meet-
ings of the Association and at all meetings of the Executive Com-
mittee and appoint all committees not otherwise provided for. He
shall exercise general supervision over all business of the Association.

Sec. 2. The Vice-Presidents, in their order, shall act in the ab-
sence of the President and perform all his duties.

Sec. 3. The Secretary shall record the proceedings of all meetings,
conduct the correspondence, and perform all other duties that usually
appertain to that office. He shall make an annual report at the
annual meeting. 2

Sec. 4. The Treasurer shall collect and disburse all funds of the
Association. He shall deposit in the name of the Association all
funds in a repository designated by the Executive Committee. Dis-
bursements shall be made only on the order of the Executive Com-
mittee. All checks shall be signed by the Treasurer and counter-
signed by the President. He shall render his report at the annual
meeting and at any time on written request of the Executive Com-
mittee.

Sec. 5. The Executive Committee shall have the general manage-
ment of the business of the Association, approve all purchases, audit
all bills and claims and direct their payment, if found correct. The
Committee shall make at each meeting a report of all business which
it has transacted.

ARTICLE VI.

Section 1. The annual dues shall be $5.00 for the period of one
year, starting with the end of the annual year in November, 1914, and
ending with the annual meeting in November, 1915, same to be pay-
able upon application for membership and to be assessed as Novem-
ber 1, 1914, to all present members.

Sec. 2, Any member who is in arrears ninety (90) days for
membership dues shall, after written notice by the Treasurer, be
suspended from the Association, and cannot be reinstated except by
payment of his entire dues, and approval of the Executive Committee,
subject to final approval by the Association.

ARTICLE VII.

Section 1. Proprietors, managers, buyers and assistant buyers of
legitimate shoe stores or shoe departments in Massachusetts or other
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 129

New England states, may be eligible for membership. Applications
for membership shall be passed upon by the Membership Committee
before being presented to the Association for final action.

Sec. 2. Any man elected to membership in the Massachusetts Re-
tail Shoe Merchants’ Association who at the time of his election is
connected with any legitimate shoe store or department store and
who later severs his connection with said store or departments, and
connects himself with other stores or departments, must come before
the Executive Committee and Membership Committee for re-election
to this Association. In case the man is not re-elected to membership,
a just pro rata of his annual dues shall be refunded to the individual
member, if same has been paid by him, or to the organization who
did pay same dues.

Sec. 3. Honorary Members and Associate Members may be chosen
by two-thirds vote of those present at any regular meeting and they
need not be actively engaged in the retail shoe business, and shall
have a voice, but no vote. Honorary Members will be admitted with-
out dues and Associate Members will pay the regular annual dues.

ARTICLE VIII.
CommMItTTEEs.

Section 1. There shall be appointed each year at the annual
meeting, subject to ratification by the Association, the following
standing Committees:

Membership Committee.

The committee shall consist of five members, three of whom shall
constitute a quorum. It shall be the duty of the committee to secure
and receive applications for membership. All applications for mem-
bership shall be passed on by the Membership Committee and pre-
sented to the Association for final action.

Reception Committee.

This committee shall consist of seven members whose duty it shall
be to introduce new members and promote good fellowship among
the members.

Entertainment Committee.

This committee shall consist of three members. It shall be the
duty of the committee to secure speakers to be present at the meet-
ings, and to make such other plans as will promote sociability and
friendship among the members, and to make the meetings interesting.

Grievance Committee.

This committee shall consist of five members. It shall be the duty
of the committee to investigate all grievances of trade abuses which
may be brought up for consideration at any regular or special meet-
 

130 THE SHOE CRAFT

 

ing. The committee shall make monthly reports and recommendations
of what action the Association should take on any matter referred
to it.

Legislative Committee.

This committee shall consist of five members. It shall be the duty
of this committee to watch all legislation, either state or local, that
may affect the interests of the shoe trade and to investigate the law
pertaining to any question that may arise, and to devise ways and
means of overcoming any difficulties by proper legislation affecting
the trade or the public.

General Welfare Committee.

‘The President shall appoint one member in each city and town
outside of the city of Boston, to act as the representative of the
Association in said city or town, whose duty it shall be to secure new
members, further the interest of the Association and to report any
matters affecting the trade in his locality to the Association.

Publicity Committee.
The officers of the Association shall act as the Publicity Committee.

Auditing Committee.

The Auditing Committee shall be composed of three members, who
shall be appointed at the regular meeting preceding the annual
meeting, to receive from the Treasurer all books and papers contain-
ing accounts or items of accounts, properly balanced, together with
the bank books. The Committee shall carefully examine and audit
all accounts therein, and make a report in writing at the annual

meeting.
ARTICLE IX.

Section 1. This Constitution and By-Laws may be amended in
whole or in part by a majority vote of those present at any regular
meeting and entitled to vote, providing the proposed amendment is
presented for the consideration of any regular monthly meeting and
the Secretary is directed by a majority vote of said meeting to notify
in writing all members of this Association of the proposed amendment
two weeks before the next regular meeting, when the final vote will
be taken.

Sec. 2. When a proposed amendment has been voted down it
cannot be brought up again until one regular meeting has been
held after it was last voted upon.

ARTICLE X.

Orver oF BusINEss.
1. Roll Call.
2. Reading of Minutes of last meeting.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 131

Applications for membership.
Communications and correspondence.
Reports of standing committees.

Reports of special committees.

Unfinished business.

New business.

General discussion for betterment of trade.

Adjournment.
ARTICLE XI.

Section 1. In all cases involving parliamentary procedure not
provided for by the Constitution and By-Laws, Cushing’s latest vol-
ume of rules shall be accepted as authority.

POON Ny oo

iI

II. Natrona SHOE RETAILERS’ ASSOCIATION.

CONSTITUTION OF THE NATIONAL SHOE RETAILERS’ AS-
SOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

ARTICLE I.
PurposE—SuHoe RETAILers’ BETTERMENT.

The purposes of this Association are as follows:

To promote the dignity of Shoe Retailing by the elevation of its
membership to a higher plane; to improve the ethics of the craft
by adopting and maintaining wholesome standards of merchandising
practice; to encourage contributions to the science of shoe retailing
in the form of books, lectures and publications; to stimulate organ-
izations everywhere, having for its main purpose the uplift by edu-
cation of the shoe retail merchants of the United States; to
encourage friendship in the trade and encourage the members
to better the ideals of the craft by educational methods; to
discourage and eliminate fraudulent exploiters in the shoe trade;
to amalgamate the local, state and group of states’ associations
into a central body so as to give the retail shoe merchants
a united voice; to secure freedom from unlawful and unjust
exactions; to protect its members from unscrupulous and dis-
honest employers; to promote and enlarge more friendly inter-
course between its members and to co-operate with all who desire
the welfare and betterment of the shoe trade.

ARTICLE II.
MEMBERSHIP.

Membership in this Association shall be as follows:

A. Association Membership. Duly organized Shoe Retail Asso-
ciations of recognized standing may become affiliated at per capita
cost of One Dollar.
 

132 THE SHOE CRAFT

B. Individual Membership. Any individual, co-partnership, cor-
poration or manager of a shoe department engaged in the selling
of shoes at retail shall be eligible for membership on the payment
of Five Dollars ($5.00) annual dues.

C. Sustaining Members, by which is meant those individuals or
firms who are interested in, and in sympathy with, the objects of
this Association and willing to contribute to its support for the
general betterment of the shoe business thru the advancement of the
retail shoe merchants.

D. Associate Membership. There may be elected to associate
membership upon the payment of Two Dollars ($2.00) annual dues,
traveling salesmen representing shoes, leather, rubber and shoe find-
ing industries.

E. Honorary Membership. Circumstances may dictate that we,
as a body, shall be empowered to so nominate at each convention
any prominent person who has honored and exalted the N. S. R. A.

ll memberships shall be bestowed by a two-thirds vote of
the Membership Committee. Applications for membership shall be
sent in writing to the Secretary.

G. Only persons included in Sections A and B of this Article
shall be eligible to office in this Association.

ARTICLE III.
Boarp oF Directors.

Section 1. The Board of Directors shall consist of twenty-one
(21) members, who shall be elected at the annual meeting of the
Association, by ballots of delegates present; at the meeting in 1917,
seven (7) directors shall be elected for one (1) year, seven (7)
for two (2) years, and seven (7) for three (3) years, and thereafter
seven (7) shall be elected every year for a term of three (3) years.

Sec. 2. Any vacancy, due to resignation or death, may be filled by
the President, with the approval of the Board of Directors, for the

unexpired term.
ARTICLE IV.
OFFICERS.

Section 1. The officers of the National Shoe Retailers’ Associa-
tion shall consist of a President, four (4) Vice-Presidents and a
Secretary-Treasurer, to be elected by the Board of Directors from
their number during the annual convention. Their term of office
shall be for one year or until their successors are elected and
qualified.

Sec. 2. The appointive officer of this Association shall be the
Field Secretary, who shall be appointed and whose salary shall be
determined by the duly elected President, with the approval of the
Board of Directors.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 133

 

ARTICLE V.
Apvisory Boarp.

Section 1. The Advisory Board shall be composed of the Presi-
dents of each state or group of state associations where same have
been affiliated with this Association. Where there is no state asso-
ciation, but important local associations, the President of these local
associations shall have the same standing that the Presidents of
state or group of state associations enjoy, and shall be a member of
the Advisory Board. 7

Sec. 2. The Presidents of such associations above referred to
shall, by virtue of their official positions, automatically become mem-
bers of the Advisory Board of this Association, and their member-
ship on the Advisory Board shall terminate when their successors
shall be elected and installed as Presidents of their respective state,
group of states, or local associations, as above qualified.

Sec. 3. It shall be the duty of the Advisory Board to advise with
the Officers and Directors of the Association upon the affairs of the
Association whenever so requested by the President. The Advisory
Board shall be entitled to take the initiative in calling matters of
importance in the affairs of the Association to the attention of the
Board of Directors.

, ARTICLE VI.
Nominatinc ComMITTEE.

There shall be a Nominating Committee appointed by the Presi-
dent, consisting of three (3) members, who shall act with four (4)
other members who shall be elected from the floor of the Convention,
for the purpose of nominating the Board of Directors. This Nom-
inating Committee may present two or more nominees for each
director, according to their best judgment, to maintain harmony
and enthusiasm and to secure for the Association the greatest effi-
ciency.

ARTICLE VII.
DutTIES OF THE PRESIDENT.

Section 1. The President shall preside at all meetings of the
Association, of the Board of Directors and of the Advisory Board.

Sec. 2. He shall appoint, with the approval of the Board of
Directors of the Association, all standing committees and such com-
mittees as may be necessary to assist the officers in the performance
of their duties, and carry out the requirements of the Constitution
and By-Laws.

Sec. 3. He shall countersign all orders drawn on the Treasurer
for the payment of moneys, and shall be a member ex-officio of all
committees.
 

134 THE SHOE CRAFT

Sec. 4. The President shall be allowed such necessary expenses
incurred in the interests of the Association as may be authorized by
the Board of Directors.

ARTICLE VIII.
Duties oF VicE-PRESIDENTS.

In the event of death, illness, disability or inability of the President
to act, the Board of Directors shall designate the Vice-President
who shall act as President until his successor shall be elected and
qualified or until the disability of the President is removed.

ARTICLE 1X.
Duties oF THE SECRETARY-TREASURER.

The Secretary-Treasurer shall collect and receive the annual dues
and all other income. He shall be the custodian of the funds of the
Association, out of which he shall pay money only upon order of the
President. He shall keep a record of the proceedings of all Con-
ventions of the Association, and meetings of the Board of Directors
and the Advisory Board; he shall also, as far as possible, obtain by
mail or otherwise and keep records of all meetings of committees,
and render such service as may be proper for the Association under
the direction at all times of the President and Directors.

He shall furnish a bond in such sum as the Board of Directors
shall determine and approve of, the cost of such bond to be paid
by the Association. He shall take and file vouchers for all dis-
bursements of moneys, and shall keep account of all receipts, re-
mittances, and expenditures. He shall make annually, in writing,
a report to the President, and shall prepare, in writing, a full
report of the finances of the Association, which he shall present
to the Convention, all of which shall embody an itemized statement
of dues received from members and other sources, and shall also
render an itemized account of expenditures. He shall make a
monthly accounting to the President. He shall present his books for
inspection to the Auditor at the close of the fiscal year.

ARTICLE X.
Duties oF Fietp SECRETARY.

The Field Secretary shall be the Active Agent in all the affairs
of the Association. He shall keep in touch with and visit all local,
state and group associations. He shall represent the National Asso-
ciation at meetings of the constituent associations, and give a full
report of their doings, encouraging them in their work and helping
to secure new organizations. He shall do everything possible to
carry out the aims of the National Shoe Retailers’ Association ‘as set
forth in the purposes of the Association, but at all times under the
supervision of the President and Secretary-Treasurer.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 135

 

ARTICLE XI.
Functions ano Duties or THE Boarp oF Directors.

Section 1. The Board of Directors shall have full charge and
management of the affairs of the Association.

Sec. 2. The regular annual meeting of the Board of Directors
shall take place within one (1) week preceding the annual meeting
of the Association.

Sec. 3. Special meetings of the Board of Directors may, by due
notice, be called at any time or place by the President or by written
request of five (5) members of the Advisory Board.

Sec. 4. Nine (9) Directors with the President shall constitute a
quorum.

Sec. 5. Notice of meetings of the Directors must be sent to each
member by the Secretary at least five (5) days prior to said meeting,
but any member may in writing waive notice.

Sec. 6. Railroad fares and expenses of members of the Board
of Directors in attending Board meetings, except at annual meetings,
may be paid by the Association.

ARTICLE XII.
REPRESENTATION.

Section 1. Each affiliated association shall be entitled to dele-
gates at the annual meeting of the Association as follows:

(a) Each affiliated association shall be entitled to one voting
delegate and one alternate to all conventions of the Association for
each fifty (50) members or fraction thereof, and in addition, one
(1) delegate at large. :

Sec. 2. The Officers of the Association, members of the Board
of Directors, Advisory Board, and the Chairman of Standing Com-
mittees present at the annual meeting, shall be entitled to one vote
each. It is understood, however, that in case any one of the Officers
just mentioned is also an accredited delegate from an affiliated as-
sociation he shall be entitled to one vote only, and that as such
delegate. No delegate shall be entitled to more than one vote.
Each delegate so appointed, or in his absence his alternate,
shall have one vote on all matters of the Convention.

Sec. 3. Any Executive Officer, past or present, of this Association,
who has served the Association with dignity and honor, shall retain
an individual vote in the conventions of the Association as long as
he remains in good standing.

Sec. 4. Proxies shall not be recognized.

ARTICLE XIII.
Dues.

Section 1. Dues of each member shall be as designated in the
Membership Clause.
 

136 THE SHOE CRAFT

 

Sec. 2. The Treasurer of each affiliated association shall remit to
the Treasurer of the National Association the dues for the total
membership of his association annually in advance.

Sec. 3. Any association failing to pay the amount due when the
same has become payable may, after thirty (30) days’ notice, be
suspended from all rights and privileges of the Association, and
after such suspension may he expelled, if the Board of Directors
deem best. Upon payment of the dues, the delinquent Association
may be reinstated at the discretion of the Board of Directors.

Sec. 4, The dues of the sustaining members may be at the option

of the applicant.
ARTICLE XIV.
AnnuaL MEETINGS.

Section 1. During each annual meeting of the Association the
place of the next annual meeting shall be determined and an-
nounced by the Board of Directors.

Sec. 2. All members attending the Convention and all visitors at
the annual meeting (with such exceptions as the Board of Directors
may authorize) shall be registered at the office provided for that
purpose. A registration fee to cover cost of badge, tickets of ad-
mission, etc., shall be collected by the Secretary-Treasurer.

ARTICLE XV.
CREDENTIALS.

No delegate from any association shall be entitled to vote at the
annual meeting without first being registered and having his cre-
dentials approved by the Committee on Credentials.

ARTICLE XVI.

All motions or resolutions to prevail must receive the majority of
the votes cast, unless otherwise provided for.

ARTICLE XVII.
SEAL AND EMBLEM.

Section 1. The Seal and Emblem of the Association shall con-
‘sist of the design appearing on the cover of this Constitution and
shall be used only under the specific direction and authority of the
Board of Directors.

Sec. 2. A card and certificate of membership may be issued to
each member in suitable form under the authority and direction of
the Board of Directors.

ARTICLE XVIII.
PARLIAMENTARY AUTHORITY.

Roberts’ Rules of Order shall be the parliamentary authority for

all matters of procedure not specially covered by the Constitution of
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 137
fh

 

this Association or by special rules of procedure adopted by the

Association.
ARTICLE XIX.
AMENDMENTS.

Section 1. Amendments to the Constitution may be made from
time to time by a two-thirds vote of the delegates present and voting
at any session of the annual meeting, provided that thirty (30) days’
prior notice in writing shall be given to the members.

Sec. 2. By-Laws not inconsistent with the Constitution may be
adopted by the delegates at any annual meeting of the Association,
and such By-Laws shall be of equal force with the Constitution;
they may be amended in the same manner as the Constitution.

ARTICLE XX.
Stanpinc CoMMITTEES.

The Standing Committees of this Association shall be as follows:

Executive Committee, consisting of three (3) members to be ap-
pointed by the President from the Board of Directors.

Vigilance Committee.

Conference Committee.

Finance Committee.

Legislative Committee.

Publicity Committee.

Membership Committee.

Freight and Transportation Committee.

Insurance Committee.

Arbitration Committee.

All these committees shall be appointed by the President for a

term of one year.
BY-LAWS.

Order of Business of the Convention.
Calling to Order by the President.
Appointment of Committee on Credentials.
Recess.
Report of Committee on Credentials.
Roll Call.
Reading of Minutes of Last Convention.
Reports of Officers.
Appointment of Committee on Resolutions and Committee on
Nominations.

9. Report of Standing Committees.

10. Report of Special Committees.

11. Unfinished Business.

12. New Business.

13. Election of Directors.

14, Adjournment.

SAAKNPYNe
 

138 THE SHOE CRAFT

III. ParviAMENTARY Law.

In order to instruct the “layman” in the rules of convention,
organization meetings, and Parliamentary Law, I will outline the
general rules of most importance and method of organization adopted
at all meetings of the New England Retail Shoe Merchants’ Associa-
tion, which can be applied to all merchants’ organizations.

ORGANIZATION RULES AND ORDER OF BUSINESS IN FORMING
Retail MERCHANTS’ ASSOCIATIONS.

The shoe retailers of the State or city to be organized, having
assembled at a given time, one of the men present states, “I move
that Mr. be appointed Temporary Chairman.” The
motion being “seconded,” he must be elected by majority vote. The
mover calls for a vote as follows: “Those in favor say “aye,” and
those opposed, “no.”

The elected Chairman calls for nominations from the floor for
temporary secretary. Mr. being proposed, a motion is made
and seconded for his election. The meeting is then opened by the
Chair for discussion, among the men present, of the purposes and
objects of the meeting and advisability of forming an association.
Having heard from the various men present, the Chair calls for a
motion (or “entertains a motion”) that a “State” or “City” Associa-
tion of shoe retailers be organized. The motion is made and seconded
by another, put to vote, and passed if a majority vote “Yes.” All
records of motions and resolutions are recorded on paper or in a book
by the temporary secretary.

The organization having been formed, a motion is made to elect
all members present, who desire to join, as “charter members,” leav-
ing the election open until the next meeting, to admit any new mem-
bers as charter members.

A motion is then made and seconded to select a name for the
Association. (Retail Shoe Merchants’ Association was the title se-
lected in all New England State and city associations.)

A motion is then made for election of permanent officers for the
ensuing year. A committee of three, the first man selected being
Chairman, is appointed by the Chair to retire from the room and
bring back a list of names for following officers: President; Ist
Vice-President; 2nd Vice-President; Secretary; Treasurer; Execu-
tive Committee, composed of officers and four other members.

The Chairman of the Committee reads the names and makes a
motion that the Secretary cast one ballot for the election of each
name read. The Chair puts the motion, which is seconded and passed
in the usual way: “Those in favor say ‘aye’; contrary minds, ‘no.’ It
is a vote and so ordered.”

 

 

 
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 139

The newly-elected President then takes the Chair and opens the
meeting for business.

(1) Motion is made for annual dues ($3.00 to $5.00 a year in
New England State Associations. (Evening meeting dinner not in-
cluded in dues.)

(2) Motion made for date and place of meetings. (2nd Tuesday
of third month; headquarters, leading city.)

(3) Motion made for date of next meeting, usually 30 days,

President appoints a membership committee of five members to
begin campaign at once for new members. President appoints com-
mittee of three to draw up set of By-Laws (see printed By-Laws) to
be presented and adopted at the next meeting.

onorary members (representatives of the trade papers) are elected
by motion.

New business can be brought up by any members present and
special committees be appointed by the chair to handle subjects and
present reports at the next meeting.

If there is no further business before the meeting, a motion is made
to adjourn.

Parliamentary Practice in Cushing’s Manual outlines a working
code for societies. A few of the general principles will be given.

Parliamentary practice in America is the outgrowth of free insti-
tutions, that the will of the majority shall prevail by vote.

When three or more persons organize as an assembly by choosing
a chairman’ as a matter of course, they are subjected to a general
mode of procedure, known as parliamentary law, which it is the duty
of the Chairman to enforce and the right of any member to demand.

The assembly may regulate its own proceedings by adopting any
special rules which it deems advisable.

Parliamentary law is not a written code, but represents the prac-
tice by organizations which are considered of the highest standing.
In England the House of Commons originated parliamentary law. In
America the English usage was adopted during Colonial days, but it
has been modified from time to time until a new code has come into
existence, through the practice of Congress and the House of Repre-
sentatives, which without question represents the highest interpre-
tation of parliamentary procedure in America.

ORGANIZATION.

The method of electing a temporary chairman, already explained,
will apply to all such meetings and temporary gatherings. If known
there is any serious question about the chairman desired, election
may be by ballot, which allows each member to keep secret his vote.

The secretary may be elected by voice, vote, or ballot, after the
chairman has been elected. Sometimes a secretary is appointed by
the chair, but this can be done only with the consent of the assembly.
 

140 THE SHOE CRAFT

 

Ordinarily a member should not decline a nomination, especially
when the assembly is endeavoring to organize and a question of mod-
esty is not in good taste or courteous to members present. When nomi-
nations are given by committees, if a separate vote on each name is
called for, it should be ordered by the chairman without question.

CREDENTIALS.

In many societies it is not usual to question who are entitled to
membership, but in representative bodies it is necessary before pro-
ceeding to business to ascertain the membership, in order that no
person may participate who is not entitled to do so. The proper time
is after the temporary and before the permanent organization is
formed, and the usual method is by appointment of a committee to
receive and report upon credentials from the members present. In
the rules of the Massachusetts Association all members sign name
slips at meetings.

Quorum.

This expression means the number of members required to be pre-
sent for transaction of business, the vote of whom makes final all
motions and resolutions.

It is proper for any association in its By-Laws and Constitution to
adopt rules as to the number which constitutes a quorum, according
to the membership of the organization. In the case of a State asso-
ciation, with many members at a distance who cannot attend meet-
ings, a majority attendance would be rare, and the By-Laws can pro-
vide that 15 or 25 members, or any number less than a majority, shall
constitute a quorum. For the transaction of business the actual pres-
ence of a quorum is requisite, otherwise no business can be regularly
entered upon, but the presiding officer may call the meeting to order
for the purpose of definitely adjourning after putting on record the
fact that no quorum is present, or to arrange for another meeting in
place of the one which could not transact business.

OrrFicers anp Duties.
Chairman or President.
In all cases presiding officer should be addressed by title, not name,
as follows: “Mr. Chairman.” “Mr. President.” His duties are:
1. To open the meeting at the appointed time by taking the chair
and calling members to order.
t 2. To announce business before assembly, in order given in By-
aws.
3. To receive all proper messages and announce them to the
assembly,
4, To introduce all speakers and guests, unless a “toastmaster”
has been appointed.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 141

5. To recognize members who address the chair, calling them by
name, and to assign the floor to person entitled to it.

6. To receive all proper motions and resolutions presented and
offer them to the assembly for discussion and action.

7. To put to vote all questions which are regularly moved in the
course of the meeting.

8. To restrain the members within the proper limits of debate as
prescribed by usage and rules of decorum, and at all times to main-
tain order and enforce the rules, special and general.

9. To decide by his rulings, subject to appeal to the assembly, all
questions of order which arise, explaining same when necessary.

10. To name a member to act temporarily in his place when he is
obliged to vacate the chair, and to appoint other members to fill
vacancies when necessary according to rules.

11. To name members who are to serve on committees (first man
named is chairman), when directed to do so by vote of the assembly.

12. To endorse all checks paid by Treasurer, when so provided by
the By-Laws.

‘ ie To call upon various members for expression of opinion on any
lebate.

14. To “entertain” a motion if desired, but not state a motion. To
approve reading of report by secretary of previous meeting, as fol-
lows: “If there are no errors or corrections, I declare same approved
and accepted.”

15. Any errors noted by members may be changed on record, by
approval of chair.

16. It is customary for chairman to stand when addressing the
assembly or when putting a motion, but he should not ordinarily
take part in debate. He may, however, state reasons in case of appeal
from his decisions on a point of order, also state reason for or
against motions made or explain rules of procedure. He has the
right to vote, but should not do so except when voting is by ballot,
unless his vote would change result.

The power of a chairman is very great, but without the support of
the majority he is helpless. When an unscrupulous member of the
minority, by abuse of privilege, thwarts the majority, the chairman
should rule out of order all dilatory motions.

Vice-President.

In the absence of the president, the vice-president presides at
meetings. When the president temporarily vacates the chair and the
vice-president is not present, the secretary presides until a chairman
is appointed.

Secretary.

1. The secretary’s duties are to read reports of last meeting as

well as all letters and correspondence, and to make a true and accu-
 

142 THE SHOE CRAFT

rate record in a book of all transactions at each meeting, motions
made and passed, as well as resolutions adopted, but not copies of
speeches or addresses, nor to enter subjects merely proposed. The
minutes should record acts only. Criticism by a member should
never be included in records.

2. To repeat all motions made before being voted upon, when
requested by a member or the chair. All documents, reports of com-
mittees, etc., should not be entered upon records unless ordered by
vote of assembly, but resolution changes in By-Laws and votes should
be entered complete.

3.. To keep a complete and accurate list of all members, that. he
may call the rolls when ordered by the president.

4. To answer all correspondence of the Association and to mail
notices of all meetings in advance of date. To notify all committees
appointed at meetings or by the president, giving duties. To have
charge of all printing, stationery, and small petty bills of the
Association.

Treasurer.

His duties are to collect and disburse all funds of the Association
and to deposit all moneys in the bank, sending out annual bills and
collecting same.

Executive Committee.

The duties are outlined in By-Laws. They shall have general
management of the Association in matters of importance affecting
policies or plans for the work of the Association. All votes and
motions of the executive committee should be recorded by the secre-
tary and read at all meetings, to be ratified by vote of the Association.

Ricut To Fioor.

Only members can address the assembly, except by invitation or
permission of the assembly itself.

The member rises and addresses the presiding officer as “Mr.
Chairman” or “Mr. President,” whereupon the chairman recognizes
the speaker by speaking his name, as “Mr. Brown,” or “Mr. Brown
has the floor.” The member then proceeds.

If two or more members rise and address the chair at the same
time, the chair has the right to assign the floor to the member he
considers has the first right.

A question of order may be raised whenever the rules of procedure
are in any way violated, and any member may interrupt by rising and
addressing the chair, as, “I rise to a point of order.” The member
talking must take his seat and the member raising the question then
states it and the chairman decides whether the order is valid. If he
rules it is “well taken,” the member interrupted cannot proceed fur-
ther except by consent of the assembly.
 

ITS ORGANIZATION 143

 

Presentinc a Motion.

Any matter of business or question for consideration or debate can
be brought before the assembly by any member in the form of a
“motion” or “resolution.” Having taken the floor as described, he
“moves.” For example: “I move that a committee of three be ap-
pointed by the chair to draft a constitution and that they report at
the next meeting.” Where the motion has been “seconded” by an-
other member and stated by the Chair, it becomes a question before
the assembly for discussion and action and when finally put to vote
by the chair, it becomes, if a majority vote concur, the act, order, or
resolution of the assembly.

All motions must be seconded by another member, who states, “I
second the motion.” The Chairman may ask if the motion is sec-
onded after it has been made, before putting it to vote.

A motion may be withdrawn by the mover before it has been stated
from the Chair.

A motion may be laid on the table when the assembly desires to
lay aside for a time any proposition before it not of sufficient im-
portance for immediate action. The form of motion is, “That the
question be laid on the table.”

AMENDMENTS To Motions.

A member may wish to add or change a pending motion by amend-
ment, which takes procedure of the main question. The chair may
call for vote on the amendment first, which will be adopted or
rejected, and the question then recurs upon the main question, which
may then be put to vote or the chair may ask the member who first
made the motion if he accepts the amendment of the other member.
If so, the vote is made, only on the original question with the amend-
ment included.

In case a resolution has been moved and an amendment moved,
then an amendment to the amendment, the previous question is or-
dered at this point. First the amendment to the amendment is put to
vote, then the amendment to the main question, and finally the main
question itself. Until the last vote is taken, the previous question is
not exhausted and no debate is in order. All amendments to de-
batable questions are themselves debatable, but while they are pend-
ing debate on the main question is allowable only in so far as it is
necessarily involved in the question of amendment.

APPEAL FROM CHAIR.

Any member who is seriously dissatisfied with the ruling of the
Chairman upon any question may “appeal from the question of the
chair,” which must be made immediately after the decision is ren-
dered. The question is then stated by the Chairman in these words:
“Shall the decision of the Chair stand as the decision of the assem-
 

144, THE SHOE CRAFT

bly?” If a majority vote “yes,” the Chair is sustained in his ruling;
if “no,” his decision is overruled.

Decorum 1n DEBATE.

The use of the privileges of debate for purpose of insult is abso-
lutely forbidden. If a speaker is plainly offending in any way it is
the duty of the presiding officer at once to call him to order and it is
the right of any member to interrupt the speech, saying, “Mr. Chair-
man, I call the gentleman to order.”

 
 

 

 

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