RUN Can UL and City Beautiful Cornell University DLibrary OF THE Mew Work State College of Lgriculture Cornell University Libra How to make home and city beautiful, prep \WIGINXY NHCUVD IOOHOS Vy HOW TO MAKE HOME AND CITY BEAUTIFUL PREPARED TO HELP THOSE INTERESTED IN MAKING ATTRACTIVE HOMES AND BEAUTIFUL CITIES BY H. D. HEMENWAY NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS A ne, 5562 Copyright rgrt. “By H. D. HEMENWAY. PREFACE. This little book is written with a view of furnishing inspiration and help to those who want to make their homes attractive and the city a cleaner, healthier, better and prettier place in which to live. The author endeavors to keep the book in clear, simple, and concise language. The first ten chapters are from plates of ‘‘Hints and Helps For Young Gardeners.’’ These chapters refer largely to elementary agriculture and work in the vegetable garden. The remaining chapters treat more directly upon beautify- ing the home grounds and the care of the surroundings of the home. Credit is here given for the use of cuts by the Syracuse Chilled Plow Co., and by the Massachusetts State Board of Agriculture. H. D. HEMENWAY, Northampton, Massachusetts, 1911. CONTENTS. _CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. CHAPTER II. How To PLAN THE GARDEN. Selection of Garden Plot—Euriching it—Selecting the Crops to Grow —Selecting the Tools. CHAPTER III. Sor, TILLAGE. Objects of Tillage—Implements used in Tillage—the Spade—the Plow—the Harrow—Cultivators—Roller—Planker—How to Spade— How to Rake—How to Hoe. CHAPTER IV. How To Test SEEDS. Seed Testing Blank—Germination—How to Make a Germinator. CHAPTER V. How To PLANT. Preparing the Land—Directions for Planting Beans—Bush—Lima and Pole — Beets—Brussels Sprouts—Broccoli—Cabbage—Carrots—Cauli- flower—Celery—Sweet Corn—Corn Salad—Cress — Cucumber — Dan- delion—Egg Plant—Endive —Kale—Kohl Rabi— Lettuce — Leek— Mustard—Melons—Okra—Onions—Parsley—Mixing Soiland Potting —Parsnip—Peppers—Peas—Potatoes—Pumpkins—Radish—Salsify— Spinach —Squash—Tomatoes—Turnip—Vegetable—Planting Table— Flower Planting Table. CHAPTER VI. How To Dic anp SET TREES. How to dig the Tree—How to set it—Planting Board. CHAPTER VII. How To Maker A HoTBED AND CARE FOR THE SAME. How to Make the Bed—How to Care for it—Cotton Shutters. CHAPTER VIII. STRAWBERRY CULTURE. Preparing the Land—Setting in Garden, in field—Winter Covering— The Barrel Method. CHAPTER IX. ASPARAGUS CULTURE. Planting the Seed—Preparing the Ground—Setting the Roots tor Garden Culture, for Field Culture—Cutting. CHAPTER X. WINDOW GARDENING. The best Plants for it—Mixing the Soil for Common Plants, for Palms and Roses, for Cacti—Selecting and arranging the Plants in Boxes—List of Suitable Plants—Pottins and Re-potting—Propagation —Bulbs—Care of Plants. CHAPTER XI. How to BEAUTIFY THE HOME GROUNDS. Simple Landscape Rules—Grading—Fertilizing—How to make the Layout or Plan—Harmony—Condition. CHAPTER XII. WHAT TO PLANT. Tall Plants for Shade and Sun— Medium Plants for Shade and Sun—Low Plants for Shade and Sun—Hardy Herbaceous Plants. CHAPTER XIII. CARE OF TREES AND SHRUBS. Propogation—Cuttings—Layering—Grafting—Grafting Cloth—Root Grafting—Whip-Tongue and Saddle Grafting—Cleft Grafting— Pruning Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Grape Vines, Blackberries—Care. CHAPTER XIV. PLANT ENEMIES AND THEIR REMEDIES. Plant Diseases—Insect Pests—Spraying—For Sucking Insects— For Chewing Insects—Scale Insects—for Plant Diseases—Potato Scab. CHAPTER XV. A FLOWER GARDEN COMPETITION. How Started—How Conducted—Rules—Enrollment—Inspection —Prize Award. CHAPTER XVI. How To Form a City BEAUTIFUL LEAGUE. Need—Purpose—Public Meeting—Co-operation of Organizations —Constitution and By-Laws—Value of League. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTION. N America, garden work and elementary agriculture asa means of education has been successfully demonstrated for nearly a score of years. Many of itsenthusiastic advo- cates believe it has already past its experimental stage, and should be included in the curriculum of every well- organized school. On the other hand, there are conservative educators, who still look upon it as a fad. Many others, probably the larger number, believe in it, but for the lack of effi- cient teachers, and equipment, hesitate to advocate intro- ducing the School Garden. Several institutions in the country have already begun to train teachers and the School Garden movement is making rapid progress. The time is not far distant, when practical, elementary agriculture, and gardening will be taught in many schools. It develops the children physi- cally as well as mentally and in the open air often creating a love for things, which keep the city boy off the street corners during the summer, and teaches the country child the business-like, up-to-date methods in agriculture and gardening. It not only educates tne nead, the heart, and the hand, but it aids in the practical application of reading, writing and arithmetic. Gardening increases and develops the power of observation. It makes a person quick to grasp ideas and to put these ideas into action. These are im- portant foundations for success in any line of business. It develops moral character. Few things, if any, develop a love of industry better than the well-kept garden. Ever changing nature lures us on to help some pet plant to grow until we love the work. The same yard three months later. What was once unsightly, unsanitary and unproductive, becomes a resort of beauty, of health and of utility for a whole family. Photos by Edward Mahoney. FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 9 Establishing a School Garden may change the entire healthfulness of a neighborhood. The school grounds, themselves may be better planned and more healthful, but the best effect may be atthe homes. The School Gardener soon wants a garden at home. No matter how small the yard, there is room for a garden for the boy or girl, even if it has to be established in a soap-box. ‘There is much waste room often used for ashes, tin cans, or rubbish in many yards. What was once unsightly, unsanitary, and unpro- ductive, becomes a resort of beauty, of health and utility for a whole family. It opens up a source of revenue, creates a love of industry, and respect for property, and is often the beginning of better things. The gardener be- comes a better American citizen. ‘ Learning habits of close observation. CHAPTER III. HOW TO PLAN THE GARDEN. HE first thing in planning a garden is to decide upon the location. If there is sufficient land so a choice can be made always select the best land with the most sunny exposure. If it has a southern slope it will be still earlier and warmer. Enrich it with rotted stable manure at the rate of ten cords or more to the acre. In the absence of stable manure* use a liberal sprinkling of wood ashes, and bone dust and apply a little nitrate of soda to the crops occa- sionally, especially to the leaf crops. If there is a board fence place the tall growing crops next to it, otherwise place them on the north side. Do not try, at first, to grow rare or uncommon things. Cover the fences with flowering vines, as nasturtiums, morning glories, cobaeas, Japanese hop, etc. Any un- sightly places may be covered with the above named vines or with wild cucumber, gourds, squash or pumpkins. Low flowers show best when planted along the path. Taller ones may be planted back of them. Give every- thing plenty of room. Rows of corn or potatoes should not be closer than two and one-half feet in the garden, or three or three and one- half feet in the field. Tomatoes should be three to four feet apart, and hills of squashes and cucumbers should never be closer than five feet apart, although other early crops may be planted within four feet of them. A crop of lettuce, radishes, spinach or onions, may be obtained from the spaces between the crops that are planted more than two feet apart. Different kinds of corn should not be planted in the same garden. Different varieties of *The street department will generally furnish plenty of street sweepings for the School Garden. Io FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. II Aorth. the same kind may, however. It is , @ty of vegetables but “a reasonably sure of get- ting a crop. 28 Begin early to plan the garden. Draw the plans on paper and studythem. Makethe changes, if there are any, then, when the time comes, you have a definite plan to work upon and no timeislost. In mak- ing the plans for a School Gardenavoid using the front lawn, at least the center of it, and avoid en- 226 croaching upon a needed play-ground. Do not forget the aesthetic side but have something be- sides that. Let the garden teach, as well oH as industry and gar- ag Garden tox3o ft. dening,economy and A good plan for the whole season. e From report of Director of Hart- productiveness. ford School of Horticulture. , In selecting tools, it is important to buy good ones. Avoid toys, and those that are cheap and worth- less. The best workman cannot do good work with inferior tools, much less can the inexperienced. While good tools well to plant av early and a later variety of sweet corn. Plan for a good vari- do not try to grow things from which you are not Garden 4x5 ft. Plan for small garden that will ripen all its pro- ducts before the first of July. The Needed Tools. a. Rake. c. Hand Weeder. b. Line. d. Sunnyside Hoe. Cut loaned by Doubleday, Page & Co., N.Y. 12 HINTS AND HELPS cost more at first, they are cheaper in the end. With good tools, the beginner should begin to handle them correctly. ‘ Wem . , y] L ; One of the modern harrows. I TO - LOCO frerbny che telat | See eee tee ee ee re be eee ee teh eee hee wm we ee a Tee ee eee eens seh eh ee eee ee) fee eee eh we po eae ew bee ee Hg ile cid ie ig ig 9 } oe 4 ? : 2 ie Le i Liv ld psig S| ET & ot a ag =e CHAPTER cLtr, SOII, TILLAGE. ILLAGE is the working or stirring of the land in order to improve it for agricultural purposes. The term cultivation is sometimes used but tillage is a techni- cal term and is to be preferred. The fundamental practice in farming is ¢i/Jing the land. The modern ideas of tillage dates from i733, when Jethro Tull published a book on Horse-Hoeing Husbandry. While his theory was not correct as to the manner that plants take food, he was the first in England to advocate tilling the soil. His idea was that particles were made so fine that the small roots could take them in as food. It was only in the latter part of the century just closed that the real reasons for tillage became popularly understood in this country. THE OBJECTS OF TILLAGE. Tillage improves the land in many ways. It pul- verizes the soil, allowing air to enter and make available the plant food. It gives the roots a wider pasture. It saves moisture. It is practiced to prevent the growth of weeds and other vegetation not desired upon the ground. To place beneath the surface, manure, stubble and other organic matter where it will not be inthe way, and where it may be converted rapidly into humus. Tillage will develop various degrees of openness of texture and uni- formity of soil and conditions suitable to the planting of seeds and the setting of plants. The first requirements in the growing of plants is pro- per and thorough tillage. It is more important than the ap- plication of fertilizers. By thorough and careful tillage good crops can be raised on semi-arid regions of the west which have a rainfall of only a little more than one-third our average rainfall. 13 ’ 14 HINTS AND HELPS IMPLEMENTS USED IN SOIL TILLAGE. The spade and the plow are the first implements to be used in tillage. Tu SPADE, is made for entering the soil, prying it off and turning it over. Its size and shape have been fixed by experiment. Many sizes are made according to the work for which they are to be used. It is heavier and stronger, then the shovel, which is made for shoveling soft earth. Where the soil is not too hard, the spading fork will spade the soil easier and quicker. Tus Prow, less than ninety years ago the wooden plow was the only one in use. In 1823, an inventor in Hartford, Connecticut, made the first cast plow bottom ever made. Nearly all plows before this were crooked sticks with a little metal protection. Joel Nourse, in 1825, with an ox team took three hun- dred cast iron plows from Hartford to Worcester, Mass. He became the head of the Ames Plow Co., of Worcester, Massachusetts. Frost Horton, a New York statesman, about the same time began developing plows. These two men kept ex- perimenting until they had each perfected nearly five hun- dred different kinds of plows. The object of plowing is to alter the texture, forming from a comparatively hard soil a mellow layer of earth, and to bury beneath the surface, weeds and other vegeta- tion and manure that it may rapidly decay. Plows vary in shape according to the purpose for which they are to be used. The Sussoiz Pow is one made to follow in the furrow of the other plow. It hasa long point which goes twelve or fifteen inches into the ground breaking up the subsoil It does not turn up the lower soil but breaks it up. THE Harrow, is the implement to follow the plow, i. e. to be used after the plowing is done. All kinds ex- cept the old spike-tooth, are of recent origin. They pul- verize the soil and should always be used after plowing. The kind of harrow to be used depends upon the work to FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. I5 be done. On sod or heavy land a disc, wheel or spading harrow should be used to be followed with a smoothing harrow. The harrow is the best thing to kill small weeds. Some kinds can be used after the crops are planted and until they are three or four inches high. It should gener- ally follow the roller to break the capillary attraction and save moisture. “Hanp anp Horse CuLrivarors, act as harrows. After the crops are three or four inches high, the cultiva- tors should be used. ‘These are made in many styles to cultivate the crops between the rows. As with plows, we have both walking and sulky cultivators. The latter kind are best in the west and on large farms. ‘The teeth should not be too large, and the cultivator, for the best results should not go deeper than ¢hree inches in summer. This keeps a soil mulch over the surface at all times, sav- ing the moisture, and allows the crop to send the roots through the middle of the rows without the danger of being broken off as would be the case with deeper tillage. Cultivation at first may be deep, but later should be shallow. THE PLANKER, is used where a smooth surface is wanted. It breaks up the lumps and leaves the surface smooth without firming it much. THE ROLLER, to do good work should not be smaller than two feet in diameter, and should have a weight of one hundred pounds to the foot in length. It should be used when seed is sown broadcast for the same reason that we press the soil over seed planted in the garden. It is also useful where a green crop has been turned under, to re- store capillary attraction with the soil below. It should generally be followed with a light harrow, to prevent the surface baking and loss of water. These are the commonest tools used in tillage aside from the hoe, rake, line and weeder used in every garden. Most of the tools are used to loosen the soil and to remove weeds. In the small garden the hoe or rake, should be used at least once a week to make a soil mulch between the 16 HINTS AND HELPS rows. The soil mulch consists of a soft loose condition of the top soil. It should be two to three inches deep. The weeder is used about the plants and between them, where there is not room for the hoe. All weeds near the plants should be pulled. A weed is a plant that persists in growing where it is not wanted. It is arobber. It robs the rightful plants of moisture and food and will even kill them. Weeds are best killed, when first germinated. Never allow them to grow. HOW TO SPADE. THE SPADE, is a tool made to pry with, to dig up the land. It differs from the shovel as it is made of heavier material, both the blade and handle. A shovel is used principally for digging loose material and is not supposed to be used for prying. The blade of the spade is made narrower than the shovel blade, so that it will enter the ground more easily. The blade is also flatter and not as ‘dishing’? as the shovel for the same reason. It is not made for shoveling or digging loose soil but for digging hard ground. Where the ground is not too hard the spad- ing fork is superior to the spade as it is lighter and the ground can be spaded faster. In spading, begin in one corner of the plot with the back to the plot. Grasp the top of the handle with the right hand, press the blade of the spade or fork vertically down to its full extent with the foot working the handle a little if necessary where the ground is excessively hard or stony. ‘Then carry the top of the handle backward and downward near the ground, at the same time carry the left hand down the handle and when at a point about one foot from the blade, lift up the spade and soil; turn it over, throwing it slightly forward to leave a furrow. Keep the back as straight as possible and do the lifting with the legs, Continue working along the end of the plot to be spaded. When across the end, spade back again, taking a slice from five to ten inches wide. When the spade-full of soil is turned over, it should be given a little throw and hit with the spade or fork to break it up. If the spading is done FOR YOUNG GARDENENS. 17 well, it will leave the soil finer than the plow does. In fact it does the plowing and part of the harrowing. To RAKE the land, begin at one corner and rake to- wards the center. ‘The rake should be used to level the land and break up the lumps rather than to rake them off. All coarse lumps that do not break up should be buried. Only the stone and very coarse matter should be raked off. When raking, lift the rake slightly when drawing it towards you. Asin spading, rake one end first, stand on the spaded land and rake towards you. When smooth and fine, the footprints should be raked out as you pass off the plot. Spading and raking as well as plowing and harrowing are the first principals of fillage. In using THE HoE, grasp the handle near the upper end in the right hand, with the back of the hand up. Grasp it with the left hand a foot or more lower down with the back of the hand to the left and the thumb extended along the handle. Avoid a cramped position. Bend the body slightly forward on the hips keeping the back straight. Never lift the hoe higher than the knee. Left- handed persons, and some that are not, will find it easier to have the left hand at the top. In this case the back of the right hand should be to the right and the thumb along the handle. These are correct positions for hoeing. Bet- ter work can be done and done eas- ier if one of these ‘positions is always used. If the regu- lar 4 feet 10 inch hoe handle is used, the child should grasp the handle from 12 to 18 inches from the end. The Rake is held similar to the hoe A corner in the tool room. Cut loaned by Doubleday, Page & Co. 18 HINTS AND HELPS | but the handle is allowed to slide through the hands more. When not in use all tools should be CLEANED and bung up. Have a piace for everything and heep everything cleaned and in its PLACE. IT WILL PAY. PI alin i Modern Plows. CHAPTER IV. HOW TO TEST SEEDS. WING to the great importance of having good seed to plant, it is wise to test the seed before planting, to determine the percentage of live seeds. Eighty-five to ninety-five per cent. of seeds that will start is a good aver- age for No. 1 seed. Take an average sample, count out too seeds and place them in a seed germinator. In the absence of a germinator a simple one can be made as fol- lows: take an old uncracked kitchen plate, cut two pieces of thick cloth or blotting paper, the size of the inner part of the plate, wet thoroughly and drain them. Put one piece of cloth on the plate, and scatter the seeds evenly over it, cover them with the second cloth. Puta piece of glass or another plate over it, to prevent evaporation and set in a warm place. Examine frequently. If 100 seeds are used, the number of seeds that sprout will be the per- , centage of viable seeds. .. These sprouted seeds make fine ih . specimens for germination studies. It is well to test all i ‘ seeds. : * ” ‘ a The following is a good form for a seed testing blank: bapate No. of Seeds No of Seeds not Per cent. of Seed , 7 Sprouted. ; Sprouted. Sprouted * Source of Seed, Total percent. of seed sprouted PROM ATS 02253 nh cedcc nici Buble Sessa a seceeabes conaeee tastoncsccisneceasettatensssascoea he Suess Tested by 20 HINTS AND HELPS The seeds that are last to germinate in the germina- tors often fail entirely in the soil. Germination is the sprouting of the seed. It is not complete until the young plantlet is established in the soil. Monocotyledonous plants, those with one seed leaf, push their heads straight up. That is why they are so small. The little plant exists in the seed. The tiny leaves and stems are present, but the roots are lacking. Most seeds contain plenty of plant food to get the young plants well started in life. Germinating seeds in a seed tester. CHAPTER V. HOW TO PLANT. GARDEN should not be planted until the soil is thor- oughly prepared. It is better to piant a few days late than to put the seed or plants into poorly prepared soil. A sandy loam can be planted a week earlier than a medium or heavy loam. A southern slope of 45° to 60°, increases the earliness of the soil a week over the same kind of soil on level ground. Thus radishes, which should be planted about May Ist, in medium or heavy loam in the latitude of Hartford, could safely be planted on April 16th on sandy loam slop- ing tothe south. Large seeds germinate quicker if they are soaked for a few hours in warm water at temperature not exceeding 120° F. They should not be soaked longer than twelve hours and the soaking of the seed should im- mediately precede the planting. With the land thorough- ly prepared, the plans decided upon, planting should be- gin as soon as the temperature is suitable. PLANTING DIRECTIONS. BEANS, BusH. Dwarf Horticultural Shell Beans, Cranberry Beans, Wax String Beans, and Giant Pod Valentine String Beans. These are among the best. These grow from 12 to 30 inches high and have pods which enclose the seeds. In the Shell Bean varieties the seeds or beans are taken out of the pods and boiled aud eaten alone, or with corn as succotash. The Horticultural beans are picked when the pods are striped with red. The pods of the string beans are eaten and should be picked before they become tough. A good way to tell when they are ready is to bend them in the shape of the letter U, they should snap. Plant all Bush varieties in rows not closer than two feet apart. Dig a furrow three inches deep and sprinkle 2I 22 HINTS AND HELPS a pint of wood ashes or one-half pint of sulphate of potash or bone dust, into the furrow to every ten feet. Mix this into the soil with a weeder or with a point of the hoe. When this is done the furrow will be about one inch deep. Place the beans three or four inches apart in the furrow, one bean in a place, cover with the fine soil, and press down with the back of the hoe. It willtake them between one and two weeks to come up. The two halves of the bean furnishes food forthe young plant, they are first to come above the soil. The soil should be kept well-tilled at all times, but avoid handling the vines on wet days. The beans will be ready to eat in from six to nine weeks after planting. Any of the Bush beans can be planted from May toth to July ist. BEANS, BusH Lima. Bush Lima Beans are planted the same as the other varieties of dwarf beans, except, each bean is put four to six inches apart in furrow. The pods should be picked when the beans in them are about the size of a twenty-five cent piece. They are generally considered much nicer thanthe ordinary shell bean. Bush Lima Beans continue to blossom and bear pods until frost comes. They should be planted about May roth. If planted before the soil is warm, they will never germinate. It will take them three to six days longer than the other beans to come up. BEANS, PoLE. ‘The furrows for Pole Beans are made not closer than three feet apart. The pole should be firmly set, before the beans are planted and then four or five beans planted in circle around it. Theseshould be covered about one inch, leaving the land level after the beans are planted. One pint of wood ashes, or one-half pint of sul- phate of potash or ground bone, should be worked into the hills at the rate of about one pint of wood ashes to every ten feet of row. Pole beans of any kind generally yield more than the Bush beans. If the first that ma- ture are picked, they will continue to bear. They should be plauted at the same time as Bush beans, but it willtake them one or two weeks longer, before they are ready to eat. FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 23 BEETS. Crosby’s Egyptian, or any table variety. Beets can be planted in rows one foot apart. If the ground is not rich, hoe a half-pint of market-garden fertilizer or a mixture of nitrate of soda, and super-phosphate into the soil in which they are to be planted, to every ten feet of row. Make a furrow one inch deep and drop the seed, one to two inches apart, cover with fine soil, and press down. They will be up in about six days and when they are four inches high they should be thinned to about three inches apart, using those that are pulled out to transplant or for greens. When they are transplanted, be sure to make holes deep enough, so that the end of the roots do not turn up, and twist off all the leaves except the center ones. Always keep the soil in a perfect state of tillage. Beets are cul- tivated for their roots, which are best when one to two inches in diameter. They can be planted from about April 30th, to July roth. They are ready to eat in from eight to twelve weeks after planting. BRUSSELS Sprouts. These should be planted in rows two feet apart. They do best on new land. Makea furrow one inch deep and drop three or four seeds every 18 inches. Cover with fine soil and press down. They will come up in about six days. Brussels Sprouts are cul- tivated for the buds which are in the axils of the leaves. They are milder than the cabbage and are boiled and served with a cream sauce. ‘They are ready to eat in about twenty-one weeks after planting and are best after they have been touched by the frost. They, like all the cab- bage family, do not do well in hot weather. They make their final growth in the cool months in autumn. Before the ground freezes they can be pulled up and packed up- tight with their roots in moist sand, and in this condition can be kept in a cool cellar or pit nearly all winter. Broccori. Should be planted about May 2oth. The seed is covered one inch and the rows are not closer than two feet apart, and the plants, eighteen inches in the row. They are treated almost exactly as Brussels Sprouts in every way. The heads resemble Cauliflower and are } 24 HINTS AND HELPS served similar to it. They are purple instead of white. They are ready to eat in about twenty-one weeks after planting. . CABBAGE. All Seasons and Jersey Wakefield, are among the best early. Cabbages are grown for their leaves which form a head, which becomes very solid. It is boiled and eaten, or eaten raw in many different ways. The early crop should be planted in March in a shallow box in the window garden, or in the hot-bed. The seeds are covered about one-halfinch. ‘They can be set out, one plant in a place in rows, two to three feet apart and eight- een to twenty-four inches apart inthe row. The seed will be up in about six days. The young plants are best trans- planted when the fourth leaf has formed. They will stand frost, but should not be put out of doors when it is likely to freeze. They do best on new ground. They can be planted outside from April 30th to June rs5th. The easiest way to grow them in the garden is to plant three or four seeds in hills two feet apart. To make a hill, drop a pint of wood ashes in the row every two feet and work it well into the soil with the weeder or hoe, leaving the soil one- half inch lower than the rest of the garden. Drop three or four seeds and cover one-half inch; press down. When the cabbages are well up they should be thinned to one plant ina place. The rows cannot be closer than two feet. It is very important that the cabbage be frequently hoed. Stirring the soil every few days will pay well. Carrots. Chantenay, Danvers, Half Long Orange, Earliest Scarlet Forcing are among the best varieties. These are cultivated for their roots. They should be planted in rows twelve inches apart and one inch deep. The seeds should be planted fairly thick as they do not always germinate well. Itis not generally good the second year. Arich, deep loam is best. The land should be pre- pared the same as for Beets. When well up they should be thinned to three inches apart. CAULIFLOWER. Early Snowball, and Early Dwart Erfurt are among the best. Plant the seed in boxes in the FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 25 window-garden or hot-bed, any time from March 1st to June 15th. When the fourth leaf has formed, the plants should be set out in rows, two feet apart and not closer than two feet apart in the row. The ground should al- ways be kept in a thorough state of tillage about the plants and it is well to hoe them in the morning when the dew ison. When the head begins to form, the long leaves should be tied over it to keep it white. Cauliflower like all the cabbage family, do best in cool weather and will grow rapidly if they come to the head during the summer. They will mature in from fifteen to twenty-five weeks. They will stand frost. CELERY. Paris Golden, White Plume, and Boston Market are among the best garden varieties. The seed should be sown in a hot-bed or window box from April toth to May 20th. The box should have lumps in the bottom for drainage and the upper part should be filled with fine soil. Seed should be evenly sowed over the surface and covered one-fourth inch. When the third or fourth leaf has formed, the celery should be transplanted into the hot-bed or other boxes two inches apart each way. From this the plants should be set in the garden, in rows four or five feet apart and eight inches apart in the tow. ‘They can be set as late as July 15th, on land that has borne a crop of peas. A crop of peas, radishes, let- tuce, onion-sets or even beans may be grown between the rows of celery. The seed germinates very slowly and may not be up fora month. New seed should always be used. Celery is ready to eat from twenty to forty weeks after planting. In the fall it should be banked up and just be- fore the ground freezes, it should be dug and packed in pits or in the cellar and the roots covered with moist sand. If packed in the cellar it should have the coolest part and packed as close as possible and handled only when dry. Properly packed it will keep all winter and can be used at any time. CELERIAC. This is used in flavoring soups and is grown for the fleshly root which matures like turnip. It 26 HINTS AND HELPS can be grown the same as celery or the seed may be sown in the garden, in rows two feet apart and the plants thinned to eight inches apart: As it does not germinate readily, it is best to start the plants in boxes and trans- plant them. SwEET Corn. Early Cory, Squantum, and Country Gentleman are among the best varieties and will mature according to the order in which they are named. It is well to plant a few rows of the early, and then make several plantings of the Country Gentleman so as to have sweet corn from July until frost comes. To get the most from the land, plant in rows, two and a half feet or three feet apart, putting three kernels every six inches, and pulling out all but one as soon asthe corniswellup. The suckers around the roots should be kept removed. Corn should be planted on the north end of the garden or in such a way as to prevent shading lower plants. It grows from five to eight feet high. Squantum or Country Gentle- man corn planted on or before June ist, will be in condi- tion to eat, when school opens in autumn, if it has had care during the summer. Corn will be ready from ten to twenty weeks after planting, according tothe kind. Seeds should be covered one inch and the land should be rich in potash. It is wellto hoe a pint of wood ashes or a half pint of sulphate of potash into every ten feet of row before planting. It is not generally wise to plant field and pop corn in the same garden as it will mix, the pollen being carried by the wind. 2 Corn Sarap. Corn Salad is a salad plant for sum- meruse. Sow May ist, in rows twelve inches apart and thin the plantsto sixinchesinthe row. ‘Thetrench should be made one-half inch deep. It is grown for the leaves which are used for salad. It can also be planted in September for winter or early spring salad in which case it must be covered with straw on the approach of winter: Cress. Garden Cress should be planted in furrows, twelve inches apart and one-half inch deep. The ‘plants should be thinned to six inches apart in the rows: ‘It FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 27 should be planted in the garden about April 30th, and the crop will be ready to eat in about five or six weeks. The leaves are eaten as a relish and used as a salad. CucuMBER. White Spine is one of the best for table use. Harly Cluster, Ever Bearing, Windsor Pickling are good pickling varieties. The cucumber grows on a vine and should not be planted in very small gardens, unless along a fence where it can climb. It can be planted be- side a rubbish heap or a pile of stones to good advantage. It belongs to the same family as the canteloupe, water- melon, pumpkin, and squash, which are all planted the same way. They should be planted in hills not closer than four or five feet apart, although they may be planted nearer to early beans or early potatoes or any crop which will be out of the way before the vines begin torun. The vines are generally allowed to run on the ground. They are planted in hills. To make a bill, dig a hole from four to five inches deep and one foot in diameter. Fill this within one inch of the top with a mixture of sand and well- rotted manure. Drop eight to ten seeds in a hill, scatter- ing them over it. Cover them half to one inch and press down. When planted in this way they get a quick start. Never plant until the ground is thoroughly warm, about May 25th. It is well to keep the vines covered with a frame of mosquito netting until the fourth leaf has formed, then thin the plants to three or four in a hill. In warm weather they come up and grow rapidly. They begin bearing in from eight to ten weeks after planting. DANDELION. The dandelion may be planted in the spring or in August or the first of September. The former time will give the largest plants the following spring. Plant in rows about April 30th, twelve to twenty-four inches apart and thin the plants to six or eight inches apart. They should be up in about eight days. It is dest to plant these in the sunniest part of the garden and to cover, them in the early spring with sash so as to get very early greens. They should be planted in gardens that are to remain for two or three years. In case they are not all 28 HINTS AND HELPS used in the early spring, they should be kept mowed to prevent their going to seed as they may become a trouble- some weed. ‘They are used not only for greens, but also blanched and used for a salad. The seeds should be lightly covered and the plants kept in a good state of til- lage. It is not a plant to grow in the School Garden. Ece Prant. Egg Plants grow on bushes from twelve to eighteen inches high. ‘The fruit is purple and should be picked when it is about two or three inches in diameter. The seeds should be planted in boxes in the window garden or in the hot-bed in February or as soon as the firstof March. Cover about quarter of aninch. When the third or fourth leaves are formed, they should be potted into two and a half inch pots and later repotted into four inch pots. They should be transplanted into the open ground about the first of June. The ground should be made very rich. They should be set about two feet apart in the row with the rows two and one half or three feet apart. In setting them, make a hole so the plant can be set a little lower than it was growing in the pot. To re- move it from the pot place the fingers over the pot, so that the plant comes between the first and second fingers, invert it, and thump it lightly on the table, bench, or spade, and the plant will be readily removed. Crumble the upper and lower edges slightly, place it in the hole and press the fine soil about the ball of earth firmly with the ends of the fingers. If it is dry it is best to water. You can begin cutting the fruit in about fifteen weeks after planting and they will continue bearing until frost. The Egg Plant like the tomato furnishes an oppor- tunity for lessons in potting and repotting. ENDIVE. For an early crop start in the hot-bed or window garden and transplant the same as the egg plant in rows twelve inches apart with the plants twelve inches apart inthe row. For the later crop sow from May rst to July 3oth, in the garden, in furrows, one-half inch deep. It germinates readily and will be up in four to six days. FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 29 It is cultivated for the leaves which are used for salad. When well grown, tie the ends of the leaves to blanch the center with a soft material. It should be used about two weeks after tieing. Kae. Kale is planted in rows eighteen to twenty- four inches apart, and thinned to twelve inches apart in the row. It is planted one-half inch deep and can be planted at any time from Aprilzothto June ist. It is used for greens and is best after it has been touched by the frost. It belongs to the cabbage family and makes its best growth in the cool part of the year. Kou, Razr. Sow in furrows, twelve to eighteen inches apart, cover the seed one-half inch and thin the plants to six inches apart. They will be up in five to six days. Plantfrom Maytst to July ist. The bulb is formed on the stem, just above the ground; it iscooked and served the same as turnip, but tastes similar to cabbage, only milder. ‘They are best when not more than two inches through. If they stand long after they reach this size, they become tough. ‘They are ready to eat in from twelve to fourteen weeks after planting. They can be stored in a cool cellar, and for a winter crop should be planted as late as July tst. LeTtTucrE. There are two kinds of Lettuce; the Cos and the Head Lettuce. The Head Lettuce forms a head like cabbage. The Hartford Bronzed head, Big Boston, White and Black seeded Tennis-ball, and Hanson make large and fine heads. Used for salad and table use. Let- tuce can be planted in-doors, the same as Endive and transplanted to the garden, May ioth, or it may be sown in the garden any time after May ist to July 1oth. Pre- pare the land the same as for beets, make a trench one-half inch deep and sow two or three seeds every four to six inches. Cover and press down. When the plants are well up, thin them to six inches apart. Keep the soil well- tilled around the plants, and as soon as they crowd, take out every other one for table use. In warm weather, let- tuce runs quickly to seed, and should be cut as soon as the 30 HINTS AND HELPS heads are well formed. ‘the heads are ready for the table in from eight to twelve weeks after being planted. Let- tuce in the summer is not quite as good, but if planted the first of July, a fine autumn crop may be obtained. LEEK. Sow in rows, twelve inches apart, about April 25th, cover one inch, and when the plants-are well up, thin to three inches apart. Wheneight or ten inches high, hill up to blanch the stalks. They will be ready to eat. from sixteen to twenty weeks after sowing the seed. Mustarp. White English is the best table variety. The leaves are used for greens or for salads. It is culti- vated the same as Cress. MeELons. Both Musk and Water Melons are treated almost exactly the same as Cucumbers in the eas For cultural directions, see cucumber. OxrA. For an early crop of Okra, the seeds may be planted inside, in March, and the plants treated the same as Egg Plant. Out of doors the seeds should be planted about May 2oth, in rows two and one-half to three feet apart. The seeds should be covered one inch and the plants should be thinned to eighteen to twenty-four inches. in the row. ‘The seed pods are stewed and also used in soup. It will be ready to eat in twelve to fourteen weeks after planting. Onions. Onions form a true bulb and are used in medicine as well as for table use. Sow the seeds as early as the ground can be thoroughly prepared. Hoe a little lime or sulphur into the soil where the row is to be. Make a furrow one inch, and press down over the seeds with a flat board or block. When the little plants are three inches high thin them out to three inches apart. PARSLEY. It is cultivated for the leaves which are fine and feathery in appearance. It is used for garnishing meats and flavoring soups. It is a biennial and will make an attractive plant for the window garden all through the winter. It is hardy and will stand freezing. It adds to a. bouquet of flowers. It is better to sow the seeds in a box in the window garden. Forthis purpose mix one part soil and FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 31 two parts sand. Mix well and sift, placing lumps in the bottom of the box for drainage. Fill the box nearly half full of lumps, broken pots or pieces of brick; then put in a c A set of Sieves. A, half inch Mesh; b, one-fourth inch Mesh; c flour Sieve. Buy the woven wire and any boy can make the first two sieves. Get the other at the hardware store. Cut loaned by Doubleday, Page & Co., N. Y. the fine soil, pressing down the corners with the fingers. Heap the soil up on the box, and with a smooth stick scrape it off level. Place the seeds in the left hand and with the thumb and fingers of the right hand scatter the seed evenly over the surface of the soil. Cover all, sift- ing a little dry soil through a flour sieve over the seeds, not more than one-eighth or one-sixteenth inch in thick- ness. Press down firmly and evenly witha block or board; put in the window garden and sprinkle with water thor- oughly. Donotallowthesoiltodryup.. When the young plants are up well, they may be transplanted into pots or other boxes. For this, mix one part of soil, one part of sand and one part of well-rotted manure together. Placea piece of broken earthenware in the bottom of the pot for drainage, then fill the pot about one-third full of the mixed soil; then holding the plant inthe left hand so that it is in the center of the pot, fill evenly on all sides; press down firmly but not too hard, thump the pot on the bench or table to settle the soil; take it tothe window garden and sprinkle it, placing it in partial shade for a day or two. Nearly all seeds can be planted and potted in this way. 32 HINTS AND HELPS A lesson in potting. These plants can be set out in the garden six inches apart. Always keep the ground in a good state of cultivation around them. Parsnip. Champion Hollow Crown is one of the best varieties. It should be planted in the garden about May 1oth, in rows twelve inches apart. Thefurrows should be made one inch deep. The seed will be up in about two weeks. As soon as they are about four inches high, they should be thinned to three to four inches apart in the row. Parsnips are best, if they can remain inthe ground through the winter, being dug as needed. They are much sweeter after they have been frozen. ‘The soil should be deep and thoroughly prepared, the same as for beets. PEPPERS. Peppers of all kinds should be planted in the window garden, or hot bed about February 15th, and treated in every way the same as parsley or egg plant, un- FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 33 til they are set out. They should be set out in rows, twelve inches apart, and twelve inches apart in the row. The peppers will be ready to pick in abovt twenty weeks after planting. Pras. Little Gem or any of the dwarf varieties; if they can be planted against the fence, where they have support, the Stratagem, Champion of England and Tele- phone are among the best. The Little Gem is one of the best for the garden. Peas are raised for the peas which grow in pods, and are best when they are about the size of buck- shot. The land is prepared the same as for beans, except that the trench is made four inches deep, instead of three, and the peas are covered one inch. Leave the surface above them about two inches lower than the surrounding garden. When they come up, the ground is gradually filled in until itis level. All ofthe dwarf varieties should mature in from six to eight weeks after planting. Look for the nitrogen traps on the roots. PoTaToES. Potatoes belong to a different class of vegetables, in that the part that is eaten is a tuber, a thickened underground stem. The land is prepared by making a trench four inches deep, and hoeing one-half pint of commercial fertilizers into each ten-foot row. The potatoes are cut so that there are two eyes to each piece. Place these pieces ten to twelve inches apart in the trench, and cover them about two inches. When the plants are up, keep the ground well tilled about them, and as they grow, heap up the soil, making a broadhill. Potatoes are about the only plants that itis usually wise under ordinary conditions to hillup. Watch for the potato beetle, which should be killed as fast as found. Rows of potatoes, like peas and beans, should not be closer than two to two and one-half feet apart. Potatoes develop underneath the ground; they are not roots, but tubers. ‘Theeyes correspond to the buds that you find on stems above ground. They contain a large amount of starch, and are used in starch factories, as well as for tableuse. Always keep the ground free from weeds and in a good state of tillage. 34 HINTS AND HELPS PumpxKins. Pumpkinsshould not be planted in the gar- den, only around the edges or in the corn, or where they may run over fences and piles of stones. They are treated in every way for garden culture as cucumbers, which see. RavisH. Hoeone-half pint of market garden fertilizer or a mixture of nitrate of soda and super-phosphate into the soil where the radishes are to be planted. Make a trench one-half inch deep, sow the seeds one inch apart, cover with fine soil and press down. All turnip shaped varieties of radish will mature in three to five weeks, and the longer varieties in five to ten weeks. The radish is grown for its root, which is for table use. It belongs to the same class as turnips, parsnips and beets, all of which should be planted in rows at least one foot apart. Radishes can be planted continuously and always insure a crop. SALSIFY. Salsify or Oyster Plant should be planted about May roth, in the garden, in rows twelve inches apart and should be treated in every way the same as parsnips. SPINACH. Spinach is cultivated for the leaves and should be planted about April 25th. It should be treated the same as beets. SUMMER SQUASH. Summer Squash is treated in the garden the same as cucumber, which see. TomMAToES. Tomatoes grow on bushes from eighteen to sixty inches high, according to the kind and the manner of training. The fruit is red or yellow and is for table use, both raw and cooked. The plant yields heavily and is generally one of the best plants for the garden. They should not be planted closer than three feet apart in the row and the rows should be at least three feet from any other crop, except radishes which can be planted within two or even one foot of them when the plants are first set out. The seeds should be planted the last of February or the first of March, in the window garden or hot-bed, the same asegg plant. The plants are potted into three-inch pots as soon as the third leaf is formed. They make nice plants for setting out in the garden about May sth. In Two kinds of measuring learned in gardening. Photo by Edward Mahoney. 36 HINTS AND HELPS setting them, dig a hole so that the plant can be set one to two inches lower than it was growing inthe pot. Put the plant into the hole and press the loose soil firmly about the ballofearth. Ifthe weatheris dry, water when setting. Stake the plants about July rst. TuRNIP. ‘The early crop of turnips should be planted about April 30th while the late crop should be planted about July 25th. They are planted in the garden, in rows about one foot apart and thinned to four inches apart in the row. ‘The seed is covered one-half inch. They are often sown broadcast, where early corn is planted, so as to get a crop in the fall. Turnips sown in the last of July should remain in the ground until just before the ground freezes. ‘They can then be packed in pits or in a cool cel- lar in boxes of sand and keep all winter. The Swede turnip should be planted in the spring about May toth, in rows about twelve inches apart, as it will require the en- tire season to develop the root. 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HOW TO DIG AND SET TREES. T dig a small tree, ten or twelve feet high, dig around it about eighteen inches from the trunk, until below most of the roots; then, put the spade under the tree and lift up, at the same time pressing the top away. Repeat the operation on the other side of the tree if necessary. In the nursery row a man on each side can put the spade down its full length about one foot from the trunk. Both should press the spade, handle down at the same time with one hand and lift the tree out with the other. Trees should be set as soon as possible after digging. All roots that are broken should be cut with a sharp knife or pruning shears so they will heal quickly. When the roots are very thick and interlaced, as is sometimes the case with nursery trees, the roots should be judiciously thinned. Always try not to leave two branches opposite; they may make a bad crotch. Always cut off all crossing and twining shoots and generally cut back the ends of the branches. One year old (from the bud) peach or apricot trees should be pruned to a single stem. TO SET THE TREE. A stake should be placed where each tree is to be set. A planting board should be used, which consists of a strip or board with a notch in the center, and one near each end. Cw Vv WI (3 Y oO] Planting Boards. (39) 40 HINTS AND HELPS It is placed so the center notch comes to the stake where the tree is to set and one stake is placed in each of the end notches. The center stake is then removed and the hole dug. Always have the hole a little too large for the trees’ roots. If the soil is poor dig the hole deep, and spade the top soil or some good garden soil into the bottom of the hole. Spread out the roots in their natural position, and fill in the fine soil about them, pressing it in around the roots with the hands. Place the setting board so the stakes come into the end notches, and have the tree come into the center one. Be sure the tree is set straight. Ifin a very windy section, incline a little towards the direction of the prevailing winds. In larger trees always place the thickest side towards the direction from which the prevailing winds come. Trees can be set in the spring, any time after the frost is out of the ground, until the buds start. The ground should be made very firm around the roots and mulch should be kept ontop. If late in the season or if the soil is dry the trees should be watered. Watering helps to settle the soil about the roots. Later, mulch the trees with soil or grass. Shrubs are set the same as trees. Wrong and right way of digging the holes for trees. CHAPTER VII. TO MAKE A HOTBED AND CARE FOR SAME. AKE two twelve inch planks or boards and stand them on edge for the back, one on top of the other, and one twelve inch plank or board for the front. Nail or screw cleats on them to prevent them from warping. The ends are made five feet, ten inches long and placed inside the sides. Saw one twelve inch board, cut five feet, ten inches long, diagonally and place on top of a twelve inch board of the same length at each end of the bed. Put two by two or two by four inch posts in the corners and nail, screw or bolt the sides and ends to them. ‘The best loca- tion is a sunny exposure facing the south or southwest. The best exposure is on the south side of a building or fence as the bed is then protected from cold winds. The front or low side, should always be towards the sun. WHotbed sash are generally made three feet by six feet. The glass in them should lap about three-sixteenths of an inch. Sash are made to take six by eight inch, eight by ten inch and ten by twelve inch glass. ‘The latter gives the most light but the sash containing less bars are not quite as strong. Old windows may be used, in which case the bed is made as wide as the windows are long. ‘The edges of the planks should be planed, according to the slant, sothe sash fitexactly. Ifthe bed is to remain permanently, the sash may be hinged on the back, or, if there is room, they may slide. It is necessary to put braces from front to back of the bed, and it is well to put these every three feet, so the sash may rest on them. The top of them should be nearly, or quite, even with the top of the frame. T'wo by four inch strips should be used with the ends cut on a bevel so they fit exactly. Tio get this bevel, place the two by four inch strips on the hotbed frame and hold a straight edged stick or square against the inside of the front and 4t 42 HINTS AND HELPS back of the frame and draw lines on the two by four inch strips. If cut along these lines the strip will slide into place and is then nailed. When the frame is completed, dig out the soil (inside) to a depth of ten to twelve inches, then fill in with fresh, decomposing, well-mixed horse manure to a depth of one Pe Ne “de, Uy Os SON ne ~ a Preparing the Hot-bed. foot after it is trodden down. When evenly and well trodden, wet it down and put on about four inches of good soil. Have the manure and soil deeper on the back of the bed so it will slant nearly as much as the glass. Put on the glass. Allow it to remain until the manure heats and the temperature of the manure falls to 90° F. This is ob- tained by placing a thermometer about two inches into the soil. It will take five to fifteen days. Water thor- oughly if dry. When the temperature of the manure and FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 43 soil have fallen to go° F. begin using the bed. If the weather is cold, bank the outside of the frame with strawy manure. For low plants, like lettuce and radishes, the soil may be as near as six inches to the glass. The soil will always settle from two to six inches. The hotbed is generally started in February or March, but can be started earlier by using more manure. /f must always be in a well drained location. THE CARE OF THE BED. The hotbed needs good and regular care. It is the farmer’s greenhouse and in it can be grown a large vari- ety of vegetables or flowers. After the rst of April the hotbed should generally be watered early every pleasant morning, and whenever dry before then. If the weather is cold the bed should be watered in the middle of the day, when the sash can be lifted for a few minutes. Much care is needed in ventilating the bed as the de- composing manure will use up the air, and plants cannot make good growth without fresh air. The sun, also, causes intense heat on fair days. Hotbeds should have a little air on fair days even in winter. Generally how- ever, keep the temperature, during bright days, between 60° and 80°, and cloudy days between 50° and 70°. A temperature of go° or 100°, with the sash partly open, would do no harm, while a temperature of 75 in sunlight, with the bed closed tight, might do harm. On cold and cloudy days only open a very little, for a very few minutes in the middle of the day. A thermometer should always be in every bed. Corton SHUTTERS are cheap and nearly or quite as good as sash after the danger of heavy frost is past. They are made by tacking cheese cloth over a frame made the same size asthe sash. These frames are easily made from planed furring strips. Cold nights the hotbeds should always be covered with mats. In winter, shutters should be placed over the mats. The bed without (heat). manure is called a cold frame. 44 HINTS AND HELPS A Cotton Shutter Frame. THINGS TO REMEMBER. ist. Decide the location of the hotbed. 2d. Decide the size of the bed. 3d. Cut the boards the right lengths. 4th. Put on the Cleats. 5th. Take boards to the location. 6th. Arrange boards on ground near where they are to stand. 7th. Set up sides and ends and fasten them together. 8th. Put in the braces. gth. Dig out the bed. 1oth. Fill in and tread manure, water and add four inches of soil. Put on glass and keep closed for a few days. CHAPTER VIII. STRAWBERRY CULTURE. ee strawberry is one of the most important of the small fruits. It will grow with a fair degree of suc- cess on most any soil. A moist, dark, sandy loam is best. Any soil that will grow a crop of corn or potatoes will grow strawberries. The richer the soil the larger the crop. It should be well drained. If the water level is high, the land should be underdrained, otherwise surface drainage will be sufficient. The soil should be thoroughly prepared, thoroughly plowed, heavily manured, and thoroughly harrowed until the surface is fine and mellow before the plants are set. The setting is done either in the spring, summer, or early fall. The early spring is best, unless pot plants are used. In setting, use only the runners. Take them up with a fork. Pick off old, dry Jeaves. Use only plants with light colored roots and clip off one-third of them. Do not let the sun shine on the roots. For a garden, set the plants two feet by two feet. Make a marker like a rake with the teeth, two feet apart. Mark the land both ways. A man should mark an acre in half a day. The plants are then dropped by boys at each section. They are set by men who pick them up with their left hands and spread the roots in a fan shape between the fingers at the same time opening the hole with the right hand. Lower the plant into the ground with the left hand, press the soil firmly about the roots with both hands, leaving the crown slightly lower than the surround. ing soil. Bevery careful notto cover it. One man should set half an acre in a day. If the ground is not wet each plant should receive one pint of water. For field culture, the plants are often set three feet apart in the rows, with the rows three to four feet apart. Where pistillate varieties are used it is necessary to have 45 46 HINTS AND HELPS scme perfect variety every third row so as to pollenize the imperfect ones. The beds should be kept clean and free from weeds at all times. ‘Train the runners in a circle about the plants. Cover in winter after the ground is frozen, to protect the plants from freezing and thawing. Pine or hemlock boughs, marsh hay, or straw free from weeds are the best covers. Keep them covered till all freezing nights are over. In the spring, apply wood ashes, 500 Ibs. to acre, and unless the ground is very rich apply nitrate of soda, 160 lbs. to the acre. ‘The first year it is well to grow some other crop between the rows, such as radish, lettuce, onion sets or even cabbage. Strawberry Barrel. THE BARREL METHOD. Take any strong barrel, nail on the hoops and clinch the nails inside. Then bore two or three holes in the bot- tom near the sides for drainage. Then beginning about eight inches from the bottom bore holes one and one-half or two inches in diameter, cight inches apart around the FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 47 barrel. Make a similar row of holes four to six inches from the top and a row of holes between the two rows. Take an old conductor, land tile or even four laths. Make holes in them, and place in the center of the barrel. Through this the plants will be watered. Use half soil, half manure, with some bone mixedin it. Fill upto the first row of holes, set the plants by putting them inside and pulling out the leaves through the holes in the first row. Fill up the barrel to the second row and set the plants in the same way, and the third row the same. Always he sure and press the soil firmly, before setting the plants. Fill the barrel full and set six plants in the top. Many persons can have one or more barrels of strawberries in their yards wheu they have not room for a strawberry bed. A single barrel may yield fifteen to twenty quarts. CHAPTER IX. ASPARAGUS CULTURE. SPARAGUS oFFICINALIS, belongs to the Liliaceae Family. Asparagus is a native of Europe and Asia and has been cultivated for 2,000 years or more. It was grown by the Greeks and Romans. The so-called leaves are leaf- like branches. The true leaves are scales and in the axils of these branches arise. Asparagus is a rugged plant and will live in most any soil. It does best on well-drained, well-manured, and well-tilled soil and for an early crop the land selected should be a warm loam with a southern exposure, if pos- sible. Bulky manures should be used at the start to fur- nish plenty of vegetable matter. Later use manures rich in nitrogen and potash. Plant the seed thinly in rows one to three feet apart as early as the ground can be worked easily. In setting the new beds use strong, one-year old plants. FOR THE GARDEN BED. Dig out the space to be devoted to asparagus to a depth of eighteen or more inches. Put six or eight inches of coarse manure or compost into the bottom and spade it in well. The top of the bed will then be about ten inches lower than the surrounding garden. Take the freshly dug roots, and set them on a Jiltle mound one foot apart each way, spreading the roots as they were growing in the seed bed. Fill in over the roots with two or three inches of loose, rich soil. When the plants start, fill in gradually until level. In the fall as soon as the tops begin to turn brown, cut them and burn them. Cover the beds in winter with a liberal supply of strawy manure. This should be turned under by shallow spad- 38 FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 4y ing or plowing in the spring. For the garden, it is best to have a narrow bed or a two foot walk between two narrow beds four feet wide. FOR FIELD CULTURE. Set the plants two feet apart in the rows with the rows five or six feet apart. Plow out the rows deep and set the plants eight or ten inches below the surface, covering them two to fourinches. Fill gradually by harrowing and cultivating. After the second year begin cutting. Cut the stalks daily in the early morning, with the asparagus knife, just below the surface, using care not to injure other shoots that are coming up. If the ground is rich and well tilled, the stalks will be nearly one inch through. They should be four to eight inches long. CHAPTER X. WINDOW GARDENING. INDOW gardening is something more than simply filling a box with plants. We hear green-house construction men speak of the window garden meaning the addition put on the outside of a window thereby making a miniature green-house heated by the sun and the warm air of the room. ‘The Civic Improvement Societies speak of window gardening and window boxes referring to those boxes filled with plants and placed on the outside of tene- ment houses for the spring and summer. Again, we hear of window gardening and window boxes in the autumn for the cultivation of plants inside the house. Window gardening in its broadest sense includes even more than all these. It includes the preparation of the soil, the artistic filling of the boxes or arrangement of the pots, either inside or outside of the window, and the care and treatment of the plants. The present methods of heating and lighting by kero- sene or gas (not electricity) produce a dry atmosphere which is detrimental to the vegetable growth. In houses lighted by electricity and heated by any system which introduces an abundance of fresh air, the matter is not so troublesome. Too much heat and dry air are harder for plants than insufficient light, but lack of light is also one of the drawbacks of the window garden. Dust and insects do harm but are more easily overcome. On account ofthe dry air, plants often do better in boxes than in pots be- cause there is more soil space to evaporate moisture, which makes a moist atmosphere about them. Water iu zinc pans under the pots accomplishes the same purpose, but the pots should be raised so they do not set in water. Saucers will answer the same purpose but the moisture is likely to pass through the pores and injure the woodwork, 50 FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 51 A kitchen makes a fine hospital for sick plants as the moisture from cooking makes a damp atmosphere. The very best plants for a window garden are those adapted to resist a dry atmosphere and high temperature and insufficient light. They are found among tropical plants with coriaceous leaves with small stomata, such as Palms, Rubber Plants, etc. Flowering plants are best in- troduced when about to bloom. The best windows for most plants are those with a southern exposure. Trouble is likely to come from the use of unsuitable soil. The best time to take up plants, growing in the open air, for winter bloom inside is generally the last of August. Pot them and put in a shaded place for a few days, sprinkling the foliage during the middle of pleasant weather. Plants so treated will get a good start and bloom during the win- ter months instead of waiting until Spring as is likely to be the case with plants remaining in the ground till frost comes. Avoid draughts and the application of too much water at the root until the plants have become accustomed to their new quarters. I will treat briefly of the following topics: 1. Mixing and fertilizing the soil. For common plants—Geraniums, Coleus, Bego- nias. For Palms and Roses. For Cacti, etc. 2. Selecting and arranging the plants in boxes. 3. Potting and re-potting plants. 4. Propagation. 5. Bulbs. 6. Care of plants. MIXING AND FERTILIZING THE SOIL. The preparation of the soil is one of the first and most important points for success in gardening of any kind. It is obvious with plants grown in pots or boxes where the roots are necessarily more or less cramped, that the soil must be rich in available food and in sustaining power. 52 HINTS AND HELPS The mixtures that I shall give will give satisfactory results and are more easily obtained than mixtures often given. Persons having a larger variety of materials at their command usually have a gardener competent to mix the soil to suit the needs of the individual plants. For Common PLANTS SUCH AS GERANIUMS, COLEUS, FucusiAs, Erc., mix one part of soil, one part of well rotted manure (cow manure if obtainable) spread this on the potting bench (a shutter placed on two horses, or an old table serves the purpose). Toa bushel of this mixture apply one quart of bone meal and four quarts of gritty sand, if obtainable; mix thoroughly with the spade and then with the hands until it contains a large amount of air. A sprinkling cf air-slaked lime and a pint of tobacco dust will help to rid all objectionable insects. Have the soil moist (neither wet nor dry) and mix it until there are no lumps. Allow this soil to remain over night or for several days and mix again when ready to put the plants into it. This work cannot be too thoroughly done. A spring hot-bed will often furnish sufficiently well rotted manure in the Fall in case cow manure is not to be had. For PALMS AND RosES use in place of the soil pure clay. This is generally best mixed by allowing it to dry and then pulverizing and mixing. Cacti of all kinds are not generally suited by the ordinary soil mixtures, and while not very common in the window garden, their odd shapes and the free. flowering habit of some species attract attention. For potting them use plenty of drainage and equal parts of mixed soil, sand and brick rubble. SELECTING AND ARRANGING THE PLANTS. Everywhere in nature there are societies of plants that grow and thrive together. In selecting the plants for the window box, great care should be exercised, not only to select those that will best harmonize in color and present the best artistic appearance, but to select those that will best grow together under the conditions. A collection FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 53 that will do well in a south window will not do well ina north window, and vice-versa. For success do not crowd too many plants into the box and do not expect the box to present its best appearance when first filled; give some room for growth and development. There are two methods of filling: one where all the tall plants are placed at the back of the box and the low ones in front; the other where tall plants are in the center and low plants or vines either side. The latter gives the most lasting effect since when the box is turned about the light is more evenly divided among the different plants. the box should have several one-inch holes in the bottom for drainage and a zinc pan should be placed under it. It should be raised from the pan enough to prevent its setting in water. Inthe absence of a pan a tight box can be used but will require great care in watering. Outside boxes may be filled in the early spring, even befoie the frost is out of the ground, with well hardened Pansies or Bellis Plants (Perannis) or both. A good assortment will make a very showy box. After the danger of frost is passed and Pansies are not blooming so well, take them out and fill the box with any of the plants given in the list best suited to your exposure, or mixed Petunia seed may be sown among the Pansies and the latter allowed to remain. The Petunias will grow rapidly as soon as the warm weather comes and entirely fillthe box with an abundance of bloom. Vines can be used in connection with them. Inthe Fall, when the flow- ering plants are killed, they can be pulled up and some hardy evergreens planted, as Spruce, Hemlock, Juniper, or Cedar. In this way the box will look attractive the entire year. In the Spring take out the old soil and put in new. Plants for outside boxes in Spring, February to May: Violets, Pansies, Bellis, Forget-me-nots, and Bulbs. The latter should be planted in the Fall. For Sunny Exposures: Achranthus, Alternanthera, Ageratum, Begonias, Coleus, Cornflower, Dusty Miller, Marguerite, Geranium, Petunias, Salvias, Snap Dragons, 54 HINTS AND HELPS For THE Box Epcrs: Alyssum, Ivies, Lobelia, Morning Glory, Periwinkles (Vincas), ‘Tradescantias, (Wandering Jew), Tropaeolums (Nasturtiums). For SHADY ExposurRES: Fuchsias, Begonias, Dra- caenas, Ferns, Feverfew. For Epcss: Ivies, Periwinkles, Dusty Miller. Cornflower, Snap Dragons, Verbenas, Marguerite, Feverfew, and Dusty Miller will stand considerable frost. For winter, fill the box with Enonymus, Yew, Spruce, etc. Small Norway Spruce one or two feet high can be obtained for fifteen or twenty-five cents each. FOR INSIDE BOXES. For Sunny Warm Rooms: Cupheas, Heliotrope, Hydrangea, Marguerite, Geraniums, Bulbs, Mignonette, Salvias, Petunias, Jerusalem Cherries, Cytissus, Roses. For Norta Winpows: Begonias, Bulbs, Cyperus (Umbrella Palm), Dracaenas, Ferns, Fuchsias, Myrtles, Rex Begonias, etc. For Scuoor, Rooms where the temperature is likely to be low between Friday nights and Monday mornings: WHERE THE TEMPERATURE IS MAINTAINED: Achran- thus, Abutilons, Cannas, Dracaena, Dusty Miller, Fuch- sias, Feverfew, Geranium, Hibiscus, Myrtle, Gnaphaliums, Pansies, Pinks, Verbenas, Snap Dragons, Violets. WHERE THERE IS DANGER OF FRost: Forget-me- nots, Verbenas, Feverfew, Snap Dragons, Myrtle, Um- brella Palm, Violet, Pansies, Abutilons, Hibiscus. All boxes for large plants should be at least six inches deep and should have one or two inches at the bot- tom or broken pots or brick rubble for drainage; then fill the box about one-half full of soil and set the large plants in position; then fill in soil evenly on all sides, pressing it firmly about the plants, leaving at least one-half inch between the top of the soil and the edge of the box for watering. Smaller plants may be set about the edges. Nasturtium or Sweet Alyssum can be planted, or cuttings FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 55 of the Tradescantia set out there. Ifthe plants are taken from the ground they are prepared the same as for potting. POTTING PLANTS. POTTING PLANTS FROM THE Soir. Take the plant up carefully leaving a ball of earth about the roots; crumble this away until it will easily enter the pot, place a few pieces of broken pot in the bottom for drainage and fill it about one-third full of soil; set the plant in the center holding it so the top of the ball of earth is about one inch below the top of the pot; fill in fine soil evenly on all sides and press it down with the fingers firmly. The pots should be clean inside and should be wet before using. Water thoroughly and place in partial shade for a few days. Donot give too much water at the root until the plants start to grow. To RE-Por, the plant is removed from the pot by in- vetting it and rapping the rim of the pot lightly upon the edge of the bench. Crumble a little earth from the upper edge, remove the drainage and crumble away the lower edge slightly. Put in enough soil over the drainage to bring the ball of earth about one inch below the top of the pot, place the plant in the center of the pot and fill soil around the ball of earth pressing firmly about the edges. Fill the pot to about three-fourths of an inch below the top, press firmly and rap slightly on the bench to settle the soil; water and place in partial shade for a day or two. In re-potting, generally use pots one inch larger than those from which the plant came. Over-potting is as serious as under-potting. To pot cuttings or seedling plants take one part of sand, one part of soil and one part of manure and pot the same as other plants, filling the pots to within one- half inch of the top. PROPAGATION. ‘The window garden is the teacher’s greenhouse and in it may be propagated all the early plants for the school garden. Many farmers’ wives have no other place to start their early vegetable and flower plants. HINTS AND HELPS North windows in warm rooms for germinating seed and starting cuttings. For starting seed use one part soil and two parts sand, or just the soil if it is light. For taking cuttings, select the younger growth of the plants where the shoots are pretty well matured so that they are not too soft. The tops of shoots generally make the best cuttings. : Cut them two or three inches long, trim Sik dares " off the large side leaves; they should Doubleday, Page &Co. then be inserted in clean, sharp sand at least half their length and wet thoroughly. A deep plate or shallow dish containing about two inches of sand can be used. .This can be placed on a radiator or on the back of the stove at night. They should be kept moist, not allowed to dry up, nor should they be overwatered. Bottom heat stimulates root development. BULBS. Nearly all our common bulbs can be made to bloom successfully in the window garden, although a cool room will give the best results. The bulb should be potted in the Fall and the pots and boxes containing them should be left out of doors or in a cellar where the temperature is low. They can be brought into the window garden suc- cessively and thus obtain a succession of bloom. In pot- ting bulbs, give plenty of drainage and be sure that the soil is not too firm directly under them; otherwise the roots will throw the bulb above the surface of the soil. Most bulbs should be just covered with earth which is pressed firmly around the sides of the bulb. They should not be watered until growth commences. When about to bloom they will require considerable water. The commonest bulbs that do well are: Crocus; Daffodils; Freesias; Hya- cinth; Oxalis; Lily of the Valley; and Tulips. Sometimes a window box can be made up entirely of bulb stock, and FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 57 while it isin bloom it is very effective. A few bulbs ina window box with other plants, if they are judiciously ar- ranged, will add to it. CARE OF THE PLANTS. Water is the most essential element of plant food, and water and air are two things that every plant requires, yet there are no set rules that can be given when these things should be applied. Generally speaking, however, a plant should only be watered when it is dry and should then be watered sufficiently to wet it thoroughly. Sometimes it is necessary to water plants two or three times a day in sunny weather, and again, in cloudy weather, once a week may be often enough. Plants should receive good air. It is well to open a window for a few moments every bright snnny day, even in winter. Dust frequently clogs the pores. For this reason it is best to sprinkle the foliage of plants by taking them to the kitchen sink or to the bath- tub at least once or twice a week. If this isnot practicable, dusting with a duster or washing coriaceous leaves with a sponge is advisable. Where the plants can be properly sprayed, they are not likely to be troubled very much with insects. In case a single plant is covered with green fly, place a paper bag over it and have some friend who smokes, puff the cigar smoke intothe bag. A few times will remedy this trouble. Scale insects, if they once get hold, can only be removed by washing off with a stiff brush, or, if near a florist, have him give it the Hydro Cyanic Acid Gas treatment. Pyrethrum or tobacco dust is also valuable but is gencrally too objectionable to have ina living room. The best preventative is to always keep the plants in perfect health and growing. The pots or window boxes should be turned frequently so as to have the plants develop symmetrically. In closing I will only say that it is the loving attention to the little requirements of the plants that is the secret of the greatest success with the window garden. Many of those requirements can only be learned through coming Seedlings for the Garden. A Window Box. Boxes in the Window Garden. FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 59 into contact with the plants themselves. ‘There are prin- ciples, but in window gardening there are hardly two en- vironments that are exactly alike. If you study plants and fulfill their wants, they will nearly always entirely fulfill your wishes in cheering and beautifying your school room or home. CHAPTER XI. HOW TO BEAUTIFY THE HOME GROUNDS. VERYVONE wants to live in a beautiful home, but few understand how to make the surroundings attractive with very little expense. The object in planting shrubs and flowers is to bring out by a living frame of shrubbery, the central feature of the picture, the home. In order to get the desired effect in planting, three simple rules of landscape gardening must be followed:— '(a) Avoid straight lines and sharp angles. (b) Keep open centers. (c) Plant shrubbery in masses. Annual and herbaceous plants alone furnish a frame for the picture for only two or three months a year and have to be replanted often, while shrubs are permanent, and in the end cheaper. In the following pages the writer endeavors to show how persons unfamiliar with the subject may at little cost make their homes picturesque and help to make the town or city a City Beautiful. Cleaning back yards means not only a more attractive community, but a more healthy one. Cleaning a single yard and making it into a good lawn or garden, especially if it be in a community where the homes are not well kept, will do much to change the entire neighborhood, not only from an esthetic, but from a moral and sanitary standpoint as well. As disease and crime breed largely in filth and darkness, healthy, law- abiding citizens develop amid well-kept homes. Small beginnings even in the poorly kept homes in a city, in time transform barren yards of sand and weeds into grassy lawns brightened with foliage and flowers. The expense of carrying out the plans here suggested is within the means of the day laborer. Owners of large 60 CITY BEAUTIFUL 61 Before A little effort transforms a barron place into a beautiful home. estates usually secure landscape artists to plan the grounds, and have gardeners who understand how to plant them. No attempt is made to give advice to land- scape artists or professional gardeners. It is hoped that those unlearned in the art of home decoration, may find in these pages, inspiration and help to make their homes attractive that each may do his share towards making a City Beautiful. 62 HOW TO MAKE HOME GRADING. Befoie any planting is done the grounds should be properly graded. After the rough work is finished, good results are obtained in the following manner. Provide plenty of stakes and a stroug linen cord. Drive a stake in each front corner so that the top of each stake is just six inches above the proposed grade at that point. Stretch the cord across the tops of the grade stakes. A cheap, heavy cord will sag or be blown by the wind, while a light, strong, linen cord may be drawn so it will not sag. Bring the grade to the desired height about the under- pinning of the buildings. Allow for settle about two inches. Roll down. Drive stakes every ten feet, around the buildings. Cut a notch in them six inches above the finished grade. Drive stakes every ten feet along the front line, cutting a notch at the height of the line. Stretch a cord from a stake near the building to the one opposite it on the street line. Provide every work- man with a stick six inches in length. Witha rake, level the lawn so that the soil is just six inches below the line as shown by the measuring sticks. Rake off the high places and fill up the hollows. Move the line from one set of stakes to another until the grading is complete. Roll the lawn. This usually shows low places, places which may have been graded well but the soil was soft or filled beneath and settled more. Rake down high places to fill low places and roll again. The lines may be put on again to verify the grade. For a perfect lawn continue rolling and filling up the depressions until perfectly smooth. Then rake it lightly and sow lawn grass seed thickly broadcast over the surface. In localities where the soil is light or sandy and where seasons may be dry and the sun very hot causing the lawn to burn, better results may be had by sowing the seed with a seed drill, putting the seed three to five inches deep. Good blue grass lawns may be had in the South by deep seeding. Lawns seeded in this way in good soil do not burn in AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 63 summer. The lawn should now be thoroughly rolled. The best seeding time is before the first of June, or in August, in Northern states. Inthe South, the seed should be sown one to two months earlier in spring and later in fall. Ifthe weather is dry it may be necessary to keep the lawn watered. This should be done with great care to prevent washing. A good lawn grass seed may be bought, or mix two lbs. recleaned red top, two lbs. Kentucky Blue grass, two lbs. Bent grass, and 4 lbs. white clover seed. If no clover is wanted in the lawn, omit it. FERTILIZING. When grading a lawn, thoroughly fertilize by a coating of stable manure about three inches below the surface. This may be two inches thick. The top layer should be good loam. Stable manure not only furnishes plant food but changes the mechanical condition so the lawn will seldom need water when the grass is well started. In preparing the lawn, before the final grading is done, observe the rules for soil tillage in Chapter III. HOW TO MAKE THE LAYOUT. As most of us have to deal with the planting of places on which a house already is erected, the greater part of this chapter will be devoted to directions and suggestions for such plantings. Many of the suggestions will apply Transforming the appearance of the unsightly fence 64 HOW TO MAKE HOME equally well in selecting and planning a building site. Always remember the three simple rules for landscape planting. If shrubs are already scattered over the lawn (spotty planting) they should be carefully replanted in masses according to the plan. This work should be done toward the close or at the beginning of the dormant period. This would mean that the planting should be done between March 15 and May rst, or. during the month of October, in a latitude of Boston. There is a difference of about six days for every 100 miles north or south. Before planting anything a plan of the grounds should be made on paper to a scale, i.e. 4% or % inch on paper should equal one foot of the land.. A plan is easily made by using paper ruled both ways and allowing a foot of land for each line. First put a stake at each corner, then put a string across the front and measure the distance under the line. For this a yard stick or rule will do, but much care must be taken that the measure is always under the line. Ifa 100- foot tape is used a string is unnecessary. Measure all sides the same as the front. Thus, if the lot measured 50 feet front by too feet deep, and was rectangular, the plan would be 12% inches by 25 inches on a scale of 4%-inch to the foot. Measure in a straight line from each front corner of the house to the front line of the lot and to the side line nearest it. Make dots on the plan already drawn and locate the house corners. Connect the dots with a line; measure for the rear corners of the house in the same manner and for all projections. Connect the points until a complete ground plan is made of both the house and the lot. In the same manner locate any existing shrubs or trees that are to remain. AJ1l shrubbery as well as herba- ceous plants should be planted in spaded borders. Never put shrubbery in pot-holes in the lawn. Plant out the underpinning of the house and around the boundary lines to make the home a perfect picture with the house its central feature set in a living frame work of shrubbery. Where the grounds are large enough, groups of shrubbery planted at the corners of both the lot and building with a Before After planting 66 HOW TO MAKE HOME -- Masses of shrubbery connected by thinner plantings with artistic curves ‘continuous line of shrubbery connecting masses with artis- tic curves give a pictorial effect. Where the house and lot is small, plant groups of shrubs in the corners and con- -nect with shrubs planted nearly in a straight line. This may be a formal ora broken or informal hedge. For the nar- row hedge, plant Japanese Barberry (Berberis Thunbergi), Privet(Ligustrum Iohbota or L. ovalifolium) or box(Buxus), [see Chapter XII for what to plant.] Where space permits the broken, flowering hedge made up of shrubs that will give a continuous bloom the entire season is very effective. In selecting shrubs and locating them on the plan put large growing shrubs and those with large showy flowers, like the Hydrangea well in the background. Plants with bright red flowers and all strong colors should be placed in the background or the passer will see only the bright flowers which will detract from the central feature, the home, but if properly placed a harmonious picture is made. Small and delicate flowers are never seen if placed behind AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 67 showy ones while their beauty is brought out to its fullest extent in front of them. Indicate on the plan by a circle (©) or in some other manner the place where the shrubs should be set; put a number in the circle and the same number in the margin of the plan with the name of: the shrub after it. Do not select shrubs wholly from nursery catalogue descriptions. Look over your neighbor’s shrubs, those in the parks, and those growing wild along the highways. As kinds that will look well about the home are found, indicate them onthe plan. Plants may be grown from cuttings or layers and the home planted without a money expense, [see Chapter XIII.] This will take several years but as good results may be had. Most shrubs planted in groups of the same kind may be set as far apart as they naturally grow high. For quick effects, Spotty planting 68 HOW TO MAKE HOME however, they are often set closer and thinned as they crowd. Mixed shrubs of two or three harmonious kinds may be planted closer than groups of the same kind. If the plan is made in winter, then, when the pur- chased or collected shrubs arrive they may at once be set in their proper.places. With no plan, the tendency is to set out each shrub individually, as secured. This pro- duces a spotty effect; helter skelter planting, which, while each shrub may be beautiful in itself, leaves the whole effect extremely unsatisfactory. HARMONY. It is important that shrubs be used which harmonize with each other and their surroundings. Tall shrubs A vine-covered porch with well massed plantings AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 69 should be used at the back; low ones in front; flexible ones each side of the basement windows through which coal or wood must pass. Group flowering shrubs that harmonize. Consider both the bloom and foliage of any plant in set- ting it. Never use plants with bright red or large, showy flowers in front of the house, but rather to one side and well back, bringing those of more delicate. colors to the front. This shows up all to .a‘better advantage, and brings out the home as the central feature. Climbing vines may be planted to advantage on porches and .fences. Often two or three kinds are preferable to a single variety, but do not mix too many kinds. Plants that die to the ground each fall and annual flowering plants add to the shrubbery border, especially when planted in-front of the shrubbery. CONDITION. The attractiveness of any home depends much upon the condition in which it is kept. Shrubs and plants should always be in well tilled borders, never in pot holes in the sod. The edges should be well trimmed and the lawn well weeded and often mown. The appearance of many otherwise well-kept places is spoiled by the weedy condition of the gutters. Everyone who does anything makes mistakes, but when a shrub is found to be out of place change it the following autumn or spring. The plan should be a constant study until it is complete. The lawn is the outdoor parlor. Artistictaste, there developed, is soon shown inside the home. Gardening is contageous. The example of the well-kept home influences the neigh- borhood. The work of one man beautifying his home will often inspire persons living near to improve their surroundings, and they in turn inspire others until the whole community takes on a neater appearance, and the first move is made toward making a beautiful town or city and a much healthier one. ‘ CHAPTER XII. WHAT TO PLANT. HIS chapter should be carefully read in connection with the preceding one. is planned, the natural question is, It is not necessary nor wise to answer this ques- Many shrubs do equally well under Select those you most admire. plant?” tion by any set lists. the same conditions. following lists are by no means complete. After the general layout “What shall we The They com- prise shrubs that are perfectly hardy and will help sug- gest plants to select. a plant is as important as the exposure. Remember that the food and care of Often sun lov- ing plants will do fairly well in shade if they have good care (good soil well fertilized and tilled). TALL PLANTS—6 FOR SHADE OR NORTH SIDES Common Barberry Berberis vulgaris Purple Leaf Barberry Berberis var. purpurea Azalias Nudiflora and viscosa (Peaty Soil preferred, no lime) Judas Tree or Redbud Cercis Canadensis Sweet Pepper Bush Clethra Alnifolia Red Twigged Dogwood Cornus Stolonifera Blue Dogwood Cornus alternifolia Flowering Dogwood Cornus Florida feet and higher FOR OTHER EXPOSURES Common Barberry Berberis vulgaris Purple Leaf Barberry Berberis var. purpurea Siberian Pea Caragana aborescens Button Bush Cephalanthus occidentalis Red Bud Cercis Canadensis White Fringe Chionanthus Virginica Sweet Pepper Bush Clethra Alnifolia Red Twigged Dogwood Cornus Stolonifera 70 AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 71 FOR SHADE OR NORTH SIDES Cornelian Cherry Cornus Mas Yellow Twigged Dogwood Cornus Stolonifera lutea Hazel Nuts Corylus avellana Purple leafed Hazel Cornus var. purpurea Hawthorns (partial shade and sun) Crataegus Golden Bell Forsythia Japanese Witch Hazel Hamamelis Japonica American Witch Hazel Winterberry Ilex Verticillata Bush Honeysuckle Lonicera Mock Orange Philadelphus Coronarius Nine Bark Spiraea Opulifolia Golden Nine Bark Spiraea Opulifolia var. Aurea Bridal Wreath Spiraea Prunifolia Snowballs Vibutnum Chaste Shrub Vitex Agnus Castus Weigelia Diervilla FOR OTHER EXPOSURES Blue Dogwood Cornus alternifolia Cornelian Cherry Cornus Mas. Hazel Nuts Corylus avellana Rose Box Coloneaster Simonsi Pearl Bush Exochorda grandiflora Golden Bell Forsythia Althaea or Rose of Sharon Hibiscus Syreacus Witch Hazel Hamamelis Winterberry Ilex Verticillata Bush Honeysuckle Lonicera Mock Orange Philadelphus Coronarius Nine Bark Spiraea Opulifolia Golden Nine Bark Spiraea Opulifolia var. Aurea Bridal Wreath Spiraea Prunifolia Snowballs Viburnum Chaste Shrub Vitex Agnus Castus Weigelia Diervilla 72 HOW TO MAKE HOME MEDIUM SHRUBS—3 to 6 feet SHADE Japanese Barberry Berberis Thunbergii Sweet Shrub or Spicebush Calycanthus Laevigatus Japanese Red Bud Cercis Japonica Deutzia Lemonei Privets (all kinds) Ligustrum Globe Flower _Kerria Japonica Philadelphus Aurea Purple Plum | Prunus Pissardi Sweet Sumach. Rhus aromatica Yellow Flowering Currant Ribes aureum Spiraea Arguta (white) Spiraea Bumuldi (pink) Spiraea Anthony Waterer (crimson) Stephanandra Flexuosa Snowberry Symphoricarpus racemo- sus Coral Berry S. Vulgaris Lilacs (Do not bloom as well in shade) Syranga Snowballs Viburnus SUN Japauese Barberry . Berberis Thunbergii , Sweet Shrub Spicebush Calycanthus Laevigatus Jersey Tea Ceanothus Americanus Japanese Red Bud Cercis Japonica Deutzia Scabra Hyrangea var. Grandiflora Kerrias Purple Plum Prunus Pissardi White Kerria Rhodolypos Kerrioides Rose Acacia Robinia hispida Roses all kinds Spiraea Thumbergi All Spraeas Spiraea Van Houti Snow Berry Symphore corpus racemo- sus Coral Berry S. vulgaris Lilacs, Syranga Snowballs Viburnus AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 73 LOW SHADES—Less than 3 feet SHADE Japanese Barberries Berberis Thunbergii Box Buxus St. John’s Wort Hypericum Aureum Winterberry Ilex Verticullata pemayets (all kinds) “Trimmed any height Philadetphus Var Nannis ‘ Cinquefoil Potentilla fruticosa Liburnum var. Nannis ‘+ SUN Japanese Barberries Box . Deutzia Gracilis St. John’s Wort Hypericum aureum Winterberry. Ilex Vertieullata Privets (all kind) Cinquefoil Potentilla fruticosa Viburnum Nannis. For tall screens or green wall backgrounds both sun and shade: Lombardy Poplar (Populus fastigiata), Nor- way Spruce (Picea excelsa). Japanese Cedar (Retinis- pora Plumosa), Arbor Vitae (Thuya occidentalis), Hem- clock Spruce (Tsuga Canadensis. ) VINES Self Clinging Vines : Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis Veitchi) English Ivy (evergreen, Hedera helix. Good only for north sides, north of New York, and where the atmosphere is moist. Euonymus radicans (evergreen, small) Virginia Creeper (Ampelopsis quinquefolia) Vines Requiring a Trelis for Climbing or Twining : Trumpet Vine (Tecoma radicans) Actinida arguta Bitter Sweet (Celastrus scandens) Matrimony Vine (Lycium Barbareum) 74 HOW TO MAKE HOME Climbing Hydrangea Clematis Evergreen Honeysuckle (Lonicera brachypoda) Golden Leaved Honeysuckle, var. aurea. Wistaria Sweet Scented Grape (Vitis riparia) Akebia quinata Dutchman’s Pipe (Aristolochia sipho) Crimson Rambler Dorothy Perkins or Pink Rambler Baltimore Belle Pale blush Rose HARDY PLANTS THAT DIE TO THE GROUND EACH YEAR: Among the many kinds of tall ones are: Plume Poppy, Aster, Boltonia, Larkspur, Herbaceous spiraeas, Hibiscus or Mallow, Hollyhock, Foxglove, Hardy Sun- flowers. Medium and low:—Peony, Sweet William, Bleeding Heart, Baby’s Breath, Iris, Phlox, Grass Pink, Forget-Me- Not, Colombine, Anemone, Chrysanthemums, and all bulbs. This is by no means a complete list, but plants and shrubs here mentioned] are perfectly hardy in nearly all parts of the United States, and will respond favorably to good treatment. They are listed to suggest what to plant. Full descriptions may be had in any Nursery Catalogue, or in Cyclopedias, found in the library. CHAPTER XIII, CARE OF TREES AND SHRUBS ONTRARY to the general idea, trees and shrubs, when once set in place, respond to intelligent care. While they may live and grow without it, tillage is essen- tial to the best results. This subject will be briefly treated. under the headings, Propagation, Transplanting, Prun- ing, and Care. PROPAGATION There are many ways of propagating plants. The commonest are by seeds, cuttings, layering, and grafting. Annual plants are propagated almost wholly by seeds. Trees and shrubs may be propagated in the same way. The seeds may be planted in the autumn from one to two inches apart in rows in any well prepared soil. A sandy loam containing much humus is the best. Some seeds do. not germinate the first year. The young seedings must be kept weeded and the soil well tilled. Reproduction by means of cuttings is a quicker method for many kinds of shrubs, although but few trees readily reproduce in this. way in our northern climate. CUTTINGS Soft cuttings of shrubs are best made from new growth between first of July and middle of August. Take the ends. of twigs about four inches long. Make a clean cut on the lower end with a clean, sharp knife. Trim off the side leaves and if the top ones are large cut off the upper half. Fill a gardener’s ‘‘flat’’ or any box about four inches deep, with an inch of cinders or small brickbats for drainage and then fill the box with clean, sharp mason’s sand. Press the sand down and wet it. Set the cuttings in rows making the opening with a knife or stick. Put them two. to three inches deep, and as thick as they will stand. The 75 76 HOW TO MAKE HOME cut on the twig should be made just beneath a node (where the leaves were). Place the box in a hot-bed or cold frame and cover with a lath or cotton shutter. In the absence of a hot-bed put in the shade of a tree. Do not allow it to dry up. In about six weeks some of the cut- tings should have rooted and may beset two or three inches apart in rows in the garden in the well prepared soil. The best time to transplant it ison a rainy day or after a rain when the soil is moist. Some shrubs will be ready to set permanently in one year; others will require two or three years. Hard wood cuttings are taken in the fall, winter, or early spring. Often the branches pruned are used for these cuttings. They are made six or eight inches long and may be put directly into the soil if it is ready in fall or spring. If cuttings are made in winter, store them lay-» ing them flat in boxes of sphagmun moss, or sand until spring. They are set in rows, using either a dibber or’ spade. Only one bud should be left above the ground and’ at least two should be below the surface. The soil should be pressed firmly about the cuttings. LAYERING Layering is a very simple and natural method of re-' producing shrubs. It consists of laying the lower branches * down and pinning them down with earth. They soon root. The branch is then cut off and an independent plant established. ‘This may be large enough to set in its per- manent place when first transplanted the following spring. GRAFTING Propagation by grafting is practiced to produce quicker results than other methods of reproduction. Graft- ing is the art of placing a portion of one plant upon an- other related plant in such a manner that the growing tissues of each coincide and union takes place. The plant grafted is the stock. The part grafted into the stock is called the scion. Grafting is practiced on many trees that do not come true from seed, such as apples, pears, etc. AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 77 (The fruit borne on grafted trees is the same variety as that from which the scion is taken.) Cleft grafting is often practiced to obtain results from seedlings in the shortest possible time. It is also used to change the fruit upon any tree to a more desirable variety. It is not as difficult to-graft as many believe. A careful boy of ten. years often has as good results as an experienced gardener. “ROOT GRAFTING Root grafting, as the name implies, is the placing of a scion of the desired variety upon the roots of some other. Apple or pear seedlings one or two years old furnish good stocks. Fruit trees and many varieties of ornamental trees, shrubs and roses are root grafted. The scions can often be gathered. ‘They should be the short sprouts of the previous year’s growth. They are best selected from thrifty trees on or near the ends of fully exposed branches. In selecting scions avoid long sap-sprouts with long spaces between the buds or nodes. They may be gathered at any time when not frozen, after the leaves drop until the buds swell inthe spring. If not used immediately, they should be kept covered with damp moss in a cool moist place to keep them fresh and plump. Different varieties should always be marked. ‘The stocks or roots may be stored in the same manner and used at any time in winter. A common shoe knife which may be purchased for ten or fifteen cents makes an excellent knife for root grafting when kept sharp. The stock and scion must be kept in place until they unite. For this purpose grafting cloth is perhaps the best. It is easily made as follows: For grafting cloth melt together over a slow fire four parts of unbleached resin and one part of beef tallow or raw linseed oil. Spread this evenly over cotton cloth with a brush or stick. The cloth should be tacked over a board or box and kept warm so the mixture will spread evenly. When cool roll and tie up ina waxed or oiled paper. Keep in a cool moist place until needed. When used, it should be cut in strips about one-fourth inch wide. There are 78 HOW TO MAKE HOME several simple methods of root grafting; three, whip grafting, tongue grafting, and saddle grafting, will be ex- plained. In each case it is necessary to get the growing tissues (cambium layers) to coincide. If they do not, they will fail to unite. This growing tissue, or cambium layer is just inside the inner bark. Before grafting, the tops of the seedlings should be removed as the roots only are to be used. Thoroughly wash the roots (this is very essen- tial in order to keep the knife sharp). Cut them into pieces five or six inches long. Each piece more than one- eighth inch thick will make a root graft. When the upper or distal end of the scion has been cut, the cut surface should be covered by grafting wax. WHIP GRAFTING For plain whip grafting, make long slanting cuts on the upper end of the root and the lower end of the scion so 1 Bara lin wax M (ip dislatend becuf) PLAIN WHIP-GRAFTING AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 79 that they just match each other. Place them so the cam- bium layer of the stock and scion coincide and bind firmly with grafting cloth cut in strips about one-fourth inch -wide. Begin winding well below the union and continue . spirally up over it. The scions should not be over four inches long. ‘This method is used on brittle woods as raspberries and blackberries, as well as on apple and pear seedlings. TONGUE GRAFTING Make a clean, long, slanting cut on the upper end of the stock. Select a scion about the same size and make a similar cut on the lower end of it. Both cuts should be clean, smooth and match each other. Make a little tongue in each by cutting out a small wedge-shaped chip as shown in the cut. Press stock and scion firmly together so that the tongues dovetail. Be sure the inner bark of stock and gragtin Fabra bed be cut --distal end ~-grasling cloth } proximal, : tongue, TONGUE-GRAFTING 80 HOW TO MAKE HOME scion coincide. If they do not fit exactly, take them apart and try until they do. If scion is smaller than the stock it must be carried to one side. Bind firmly with warm grafting cloth one-fourth inch wide, beginning well be- low the union, winding spirally until above the cut. This method is used with tough wooded plants as the apple, the rose, etc. As the tongues hold stock and scion -to- gether firmly, it is a better method than plain whip graft- ing. SADDLE GRAFTING Make a clean slanting cut on each side of the upper end of the root, and a corresponding V-shaped cut on the 1 2 3 SADDLE GRAFTING scion. When these fit exactly, bind them together with grafting cloth. Never allow the hands to touch the cut surfaces. AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 81 TO PLANT ROOT GRAFTS Prepare the soil as for any crop by spading or plow- ing and harrowing thoroughly. Stretch a line where the first row is desired. Put the spade down the full length of the blade under the line. Move it back and forth to increase the opening. Remove the spade and press the root graft into the ground until the top is only an inch above the surface. Press the soil firmly about it with the heel. Continue to place root grafts under the line every four to six inches. The graft should be inserted into the soil well below the union to encourage roots in the scion and to prevent the stock from sending up ‘‘suckers.’’ In a small garden root grafts may be planted in rows two feet apart, but if there is space enough to cultivate with a horse, the rows should be three to four feet apart. Hard wood cuttings should be planted in the same manner. CLEFT GRAFTING Cleft grafting is practiced on the tops of trees which are more or less matured. Wild apple trees of good size are often grafted so they will produce desirable fruit. It should be practiced on branches not over two inches in diameter. It is best to graft only one-third or one-half of a tree in a single season, so as to have enough top to furnish plenty of leaves. A saw, a pruning hook, a knife and a hammer are necessary as well as scions and grafting wax. With a clean, sharp saw, remove the end Split the stub in the center 82 HOW TO MAKE HOME of the branch to be grafted at a point where the stub will not be over two inches in diameter. Much care should be taken to prevent the bark splitting down on the under side when the branch is cut off. It is often best to make part of the cut from underneath. Place the grafting hook so the chisel part is over the center of the cut and drive it down with the hammer splitting the stub into two parts through the center. Remove the tool and drive the wedge part into the end of the split stub so as to hold the edges Cross section showing how to place scion so inner barks coincide. a Ascion but. 6 Scions inserted; stub ready for wax open. Select a scion and make a double wedge shaped cut on the lower end of it, making it wedge shaped length- wise so as to fit into the cleft, and wedge shaped horizon- tally so the inside of the scion inserted in the cleft is al- most cut away while the outside, which comes in contact with the cambium layer of the stub, forms an arc of the original circle of the twig. When the stub is more than one inch in diameter, place a scion in each edge of the cleft so the inner bark of the scion and of the stock coin- cide. Remove the grafting hook. When the stub springs back, it will hold the scions firmly in place. All exposed AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 83 surfaces should be well covered with grafting wax to pre- vent evaporation. Let the wax cover the ruptured bark below where the scion is inserted as well as the top of the cut. The second season, one of the branches should be removed if both scions grow. When the stub is one inch or less across, but one scion should be inserted. If both were allowed to grow, a fork would be formed which would weaken the tree. The scions should be wrapped in moist cloths to prevent them from drying out. Cleft grafting is successfully done only in the spring, when buds are swell- ing. It is most successful on bright, warm days, free from cold or drying winds. For transplanting see Chapter VI. PRUNING. Pruning is often the most neglected part of the work about the home. It is very simple if one will only take some pains to learn how to prune correctly. Some butcher their trees and shrubs while others allow them to grow entirely to brush. When well done, pruning is the act of removing a part of the plant that the remainder may bet- ter serve our purpose. It is practiced for four results, each requiring a slightly different method. They are: 1, To change the form—Formative pruning. 2, Tostimulate development, growth, fruit, flowers, etc.—Stimulative pruning. 3, To prevent some impending evil asa disease, dead or dying members—Protective pruning. 4, To hasten or retard maturity—Maturative pruning. The best time to prune is directly after blooming or toward the end of the dormant period, March in New England; Janu- ary and February, south; are good months. It is better not to have large cut surfaces exposed to drying winter winds. They should be painted or covered with grafting wax. ‘The worst time to prune is when the wounds bleed in spring or in the fall. Early flowering shrubs should be pruned after blooming. TREES Dead or dying branches should be removed at any time. Always cut back to living wood. Twining or cross- 84 HOW TO MAKE HOME ing branches should be removed. The tops of fruit trees should be kept open enough to allow fruit to color well. When necessary to cut a branch from a tree, the cut should be made as near the trunk as possible. A part of the cut should be made from the underside to prevent the bark splitting down. If cut in this way the wound quickly heals. If a ‘‘stub’’ is left the wound will not heal and decay begins which soon extends into the trunk. A young Hollow tree prepared for Cement Filling Connecting Chain above protecting against splitting AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 85 tree may be trained as it should grow and will need little pruning when old. All suckers whether from the branches or roots should be removed. Prune regularly and systema- tically every year. Trees not properly pruned when set and those that have been neglected require the most care- ful treatment and care. Where the trunk is divided, treatment is required not only to preserve the tree, but to protect life and property. Any severe storm is likely to break down one side injuring everything that comes in its way. One tree in breaking may destroy enough property to pay for fixing a dozen trees. Such trees may be made safe by putting a steal bolt through the trunk just below where they separate and by connecting two bolts ten to fif- teen feet above with a steel chain. The chain allows for the natural movement of the tree. The heads of the bolts should be large and counter-sunk even with the inner bark, so the wound will heal in the shortest possible time. The openings with tar and oakum should be made water tight and the place where the trunk divides should be filled with tarred oakum to prevent water from entering and causing decay. Hollow trees are most trequently caused by improper pruning. When the tree is hollow, it should be treated as a dentist treats a hollow tooth. Clean out all the decay, put on a coat of tar and fill it with cement. The lives of many trees may be saved for years by this treatment. The cement should be mixed thin enough to fill all holes and may be made of one part cement and two parts sand. Large stones may be used to help fill up the cavities.. For ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS, prune to give the best effect. If new growths are wanted for twig effects in win- ter as the red and yellow stemed willow, cut everything back near the ground in March. For flowering shrubs prune to preserve the best natural or desired shapes and a medium growth. Long sap growths rarely produce flowers or fruit. For Hysrip Rosks, cut back Hardy Hybrid roses early in the spring, severely, to about one foot from the ground. Leave but few buds to stimulate as much new 86 HOW TO MAKE HOME growth as possible, as this produces the flowers. Watch for native stock canes from the ground that often appear where budded or grafted stock is used. Remove all of them or they will ruin the rose bush. After blooming cut back about half as much as in the spring to stimulate an- other crop of flowers. When well planted, pruned, and cared for, many of the roses will bloom from May until October. GrapPpE VinES—For the best success, grape vines should be pruned so as to renew the canes. There are several methods of the renewal system. Any one or a com- bination of several may be used with success. For arbors prune to get as many new canes as possible each year and at the same time get the effect of the arbor. The simplest renewal system is where the vines are planted eight feet apart, in rows eight or ten feet apart. Posts are set in the row and two wires are stretched upon them. The lowest wire is two and one-half feet from the ground; the upper one is four feet from the ground. The new cane is grown on the lower wire. ‘The fruiting cane is grown on the up- per wire where it gets more light and air which prevents disease. At the end of the season or sometime before the first of March, the upper cane is cut off near the lower wire. The lower one is now carried up to the upper wire where it is tied or fastened with little hooks made for the purpose. A stub of one or two eyes is left near the lower wire and from this the new cane is grown. The fruit is always grown from the new growth on last season’s cane. RASPBERRIES AND BLACKBERRIES should always be pruned by cutting out all canes that have fruited. They are best removed ‘by a raspberry hook which is a small sharp hook on a handle about four feet long. CARE Many persons fail to realize that shrubs or trees, when once planted, need any care. Trees and shrubs should be unpacked immediately upon their arrival and if they can not be replanted at once, they should be ‘‘heeled-in.”’ AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 87 Trees Heeled In This consists of removing them from bundles and tem- porarily covering their roots with soil, allowing the stems to slant away from the sun. If the plants have become very dry, it is advisable to lay them down and cover their full length with soil. Heeling-in is the best done on the north side of buildings. All broken or bruised roots should be removed, leaving a clean cut surface which quickly heals. The top should usually be cut back about one third. In poor soils, trees will make better growth if a supply of stable manure is mixed with the soil, put into the hole after the roots are covered. Manure should not come in contact with the roots. Large trees may be transplanted, but re- quire much care. A ball of earth should be taken up with them, if possible. It is better to root prune by digging a trench around each tree the previous year, cutting all the roots. This trench should be about one-sixth of the height of the tree from the trunk, ie., a tree 25 feet high would have atrench, four feet from the trunk, eight feet in diameter. Large trees should be set immediately after digging, and a stream of water should always be used to settle the soil about the roots. Street trees as maples and elms should not be set closer than 30 to 4o feet apart. Young trees well pruned and set, grow shapely with little additional care if unmolested. Crossing branches should be removed. If there is a tendency to become unsymetrical, the ends of the longest branches should be cut off. Shrubs should be planted in well tilled borders and trees do bet- ter when dug about and fertilized. Care should always be taken not to injure roots. oe Cutting all Broken Roots Poplar and other quick growing trees should be very severely pruned AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 89 SPECIAL CARE OF RosEs. Roses should be treated differently than most shrubs. While the ordinary shrub does best in a medium loam, roses like a heavy loam, the more clay the better. Hardy hybrid roses may be made to bloom almost continuously if the bed is well prepared before setting. To prepare the bed, dig out the soil fora depth of three feet, and fill in the bottom with bones, wood ashes, and a compost of cow manure. For the top, use two parts of pure clay to one part of fresh cow manure with a good sprinkling of fine bone meal; mix these thoroughly. If the roses are grafted stock, they should be set three or four inches below the buds. It is usually wise to set rose bushes two or three inches lower than they have been growing. ‘This encourages rooting above the grafts. A yearly application of fine bone meal or wood ashes or both is beneficial. It is usually necessary to Spray roses as soon as the buds start in spring and to continue to spray until after the danger of plant aphides is over. Both the green and white fly are very troublesome. Arsenic poisons are useless because the insect hasa mouth like a mosquito, pierces the skin of the leaf, and sucks the vital juices from within. A contact poison such as kerosene emulsion, whale oil soap, or ivory soap should be used. This may seem a good deal of work, but it will pay. A rose bed _ thor- oughly prepared, and the roses cared for as above de- scribed, if they are of the hardy tea or hybrid varieties will yield bloom every month from June to October and will also have the rich, dark foliage of the florist’s rose. Of course, June roses cannot be made to bloom contin- uously, and while the care and the method of planting is practically the same, the result will not be continuous bloom; neither should they be as thoroughly pruned. CHAPTER XIV. PLANT ENEMIES AND THEIR REMEDIES. N this chapter no attempt will be made to fully describe the enemies found in nearly every garden. For conveni- ence they will be divided into Plant Diseases and Insect Pests. The latter will be subdivided into sucking insects, biting and chewing insects, and scale insects. Each sub- ject will be briefly treated and remedies easy to apply given. PLANT DISEASES. Plant diseases are very similar to diseases in human beings, caused by the same class of vegetable growth called germs. In the human family we have diphtheria, scarlet fever, or small-pox. In the plant family, rusts, mildews, and blight. The best way to prevent disease and insect attacks in plants is to give them plenty of food and air, keep them healthy and growing. It is easier to prevent disease than to cure it. The spores or germs of all diseases of plants are killed by the Bordeaux mixture. Plants likely to be attacked should be sprayed as a preventative measure. This kills the germs that fall on the leaf and prevents the disease starting. Sunshine is the best of all germicides. INSECT PESTS. There are so many kinds of insects that descriptions of them would fill a large book. The sucking insects are those that have mouth parts like the mosquito. The beak pierces the skin of the leaf or tender twigs and sucks out the chlorophyl which is not only the green coloring matter of the leaf but its energy as well. The white and green fly found on rose bushes are among the commonest in this class. They are commonly known as plant lice. All this class of pests must be killed by a contact poison go AND CITY BEAUTIFUL gI —something that kills the insects by coming in con- tact with their bodies. Kerosene emulsion, ivory soap solutions, and whale oil soap are among the remedies for this class of insects. The chewing insects are easily killed The Destructive Elm Leaf Beetle by spraying with any active poison as lead arsenate, paris green, helebore. It is easy to distinguish them as they eat up the leaves. Laya (often called worms) of many insects come under this class. Scale insects are really suck- ing insects. They stick so closely to the bark of twigs that they are often overlooked and the tree or shrub is sometimes nearly killed before the cause is discovered. Careful examination, however, and especially scraping the thumb nail along the bark of the twig, will indicate their presence. They require special treatment, usually winter spraying. 92 HOW TO MAKE HOME SPRAYING. A spray pump is very useful about the home. Any good bucket pump will do all the work necessary on a small place. Spraying to be effective should be repeatedly done. Fair results may be obtained by using a brush broom or a bundle of fine twigs. The finer the spray the better. Considerable force is necessary to carry the spray into the foliage. The mixtures given in the following paragraphs are effective, and easily obtained or made. Do not wait until the bugs have eaten up your plants, spray as soon as the enemies appear. SPRAY MIXTURES FOR PLANT DISEASES. The Bordeaux mixture is the most generally used of all. It discolors the foliage, however. All sprays should be applied in as fine a spray as possible. They should be applied as a preventative to kill the spores before the plants become diseased. Use 1 lb. blue stone or copper sulphate and 1 1b. rock lime. Dissolve the first in a wooden or earthern vessel containing 5 quarts of water, by suspending it ina bag. Slake the lime in 5 quarts of water. Keep these stock solutions separate until ready to spray. Place 4 quarts of water in a pail and add 1 pint of each. It is better to strain this through two thicknesses of bransack to prevent clogging the spray nozzle. The Bordeaux mixture is used to prevent rusts, mil- dews, decay and all plant diseases. Another remedy for rusts and mildews on roses or other plants, is to sift, or better, blow a thin coating of flowers-of-sulphur over the plants. Potassium sulphide or liver-of-sulphur may be applied for the same purpose. Use 1 ounce dis- solved in 2 gallons of water. It does not discolor the foliage but has a disagreeable odor. SPRAYING MIXTURES FOR INSECTS. For Sucxine Insects. The following mixtures are destructive to all insects that suck the juice, as green fly, plant lice, etc. Kerosene Emulsion: Dissolve % cake of AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 93 ivory or any good hard soap shaved fine in one pint of water, remove from the fire and add one quart of kero- sene. Churn with a force pump or pour from one pail to another for about ten minutes when it should be thor- oughly mixed. ‘Take one pint of this stock emulsion and add seven quarts of water and mix. It will mix easier if the water is warm. Apply this to the bushes with force Plant Lice in as fine a spray as possible. For all kinds of plant lice, spray two days in succession and as often as they reappear. Ivory Soar SoLuTion. Dissolve 1 lb. cake in 4 gal- lons of water. Apply when luke warm. Whale oil soap should be applied according to the printed directions. Tosacco Dust. ‘Tobacco dust and tobacco water is also good. The dust should be sifted or blown with a blower over the leaves and twigs. Individual house plants may be treated by placing a paper bag over the plant and hav- 94 HOW TO MAKE HOME ing some friend who smokes, puff the smoke of a cigar into the bag. This is often the easiest treatment for house plants. The bag should remain for some time over the plant, to hold the smoke until the plant lice are killed. Pyrethrum powder and Bug Death are also used to destroy troublesome sucking insects. For CHEWING INSECTS it is necessary to apply an active or positive poison such as Paris Green, London Purple, or Helebore. these may be applied either dry or in water. Use a tablespoonful of Helebore to a pail of water or mix in 2 quarts of ashes. Use a teaspoonful of Paris Green to a pail of water, or 2 quarts of ashes applied dry. All spray mixtures shouid be kept thoroughly mixed, and the finer spray the better. The Garden Toad—One of the gardener’s best friends AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 95 ScaLE Insects. Scale insects are killing many of our trees and shrubs. As a preventative it is well to spray in winter with a ‘‘scale-cide’’ or something prepared espe- cially for scale pests. Kerosene Emulsion, one part stock solution to ten parts water may help some. Spraying may be done any warm day in winter. T'woorthree applications are better thanone. For the ordinary home garden the mix- tures here given will be found easy to make or obtain, and inexpensive to apply. A little care will bring big results. Never allow plants to become’ weakened by insect attacks as they are then likely to be attacked by disease germs. Keep them growing and the soil tilled. Encourage the enemies of insects as the birds and toads. Birds eat millions of destructive insects and a single gar- den toad has been proved to eat in one season destructive worms and bugs, that if left, would destroy over nineteen dollars worth of produce. (See Nature Leaflet, No. 28, State Board of Agriculture, Boston, Mass. Free.) DAMPING OFF FUNGUS. ‘This often causes small seedling plants and cuttings to disappear, sometimes in a single night. A simple remedy usually effective is to sift clean dry sand (baked or sterilized sand is best) over the young plants and withhold water until they become rather dry. A high temperature and a damp soil favor damping off fungus. PoTAToO SCAB. Suspend the potatoes in sacks, in 30 gallons of water, to which 1 pint of Formaldehyde has been added. Potatoes should be sprayed 6 times with Bordeaux mix- ture. Paris Green should be added to kill the beetles when necessary. Use 4 lbs. lime, 4 lbs. blue stone (copper sulphate) and 1 lb. Paris Green to 50 gallons of water. Shake the lime in 5 gals. of water and dissolve the copper sulphate in 5 gals. of water by suspending it in a sack. Pour these into 4o gals. of water. Never pour the stock solutions together before adding water. Never use iron 96 HINTS AND HELPS or tin about the Bordeaux mixture. Treating and spray- ing potatoes often increases the crop more than one hund- red per cent. CHAPTER XV. “A FLOWER GARDEN COMPETITION oS Carnegie Flower Garden Competition of North- ampton, was started by the President of the Home- Culture Clubs, now the People’s Institute, in 1899. Be- ginning with only a score of competitors, the interest in the competition and its wonderful results has steadily grown until over one thousand homes (a fourth of the homes in the city) are competing for the prizes offered each year. The work has grown so that the city is divided into seven different districts (ward boundaries) and in order to distribute the prizes more evenly, each district receives three prizes. The amazing numerical: growth of the com-. petition shows the enthusiasm of the competitors and the: general interest throughout the city. But this awakened interest, wonderful as it may seem, is overshadowed by the astonishing results accomplished. Many garden competitors started in the competition with their lawns merely grassless yards or a waste of sand and weeds. Now in place of these. unsightly yards are beautiful, well kept lawns with appropriately planted shrubberry. This is done not only by persons who are well to do, but by persons working in mills, who are simply tenants in the places where they live. So silently and gradually has this work been done, that many fail to realize the wonderful changes that have taken place until other cities are visited or pictures taken ten years ago, and now are contrasted. One visitor in the city after riding for two hours through the factory section, *The Carnegie Flower Garden of Northampton Mass., has been carried on for a decade with so much success; the rules so carefully worked out, and suc- cesses obtained when the same rules and methods have been adopted else- where, that they are here given in the hope that they may prove helpful to others interested in beautifying homes in other communities. 98 HOW TO MAKE HOME turned to her companion and asked, ‘‘Where do the fac- tory people live ?”’ The pictures tell the story of the changed condition better than words. In order to get contrasting photo- graphs, the writer, after looking entirely over the city, had to go to another city to get views of homes without a lawn or a flower or a shrub about them. A Flower Garden Committee of about twenty-five, divide the city among themselves. The latter part of winter and early spring they visit each home and enroll the compet- itors. One expert visits all competing gardens in the sum- mer and marks each on the /ayout or plan of the place; the harmony or its arrangements both as to color of blooms and size and form of trees, shrubs, and plants. Third, the condition or the order and neatness of everything. Fourth, the duration of the planting. Visitors advise and help the competitors all they can and tell them the whole place is considered the garden from the gutter in front to the end of the back yard. The lawn should be thoroughly weeded. Mow the grass often. In laying out the plantings, avoid straight lines and sharp angles. Plant all flowers you wish, but plant shrubs at their back to give more pleasant and lasting effects while the annuals are cut of season as well as when not in bloom. Try to plant so as to make the whole place one single picture of ahome with the house its chief feature and the outside boundary line its frame. The place needs to be planted on all its boundaries and left open in the middle. Plant some small evergreens so as to have a twelve months’ garden instead of a three months’ garden. Civic gardening is contagious. As one man improves his place, the whole surrounding neighborhood begins to take on a cleaner aspect until soon there are beautifully kept and well planted lawns, where a few years ago nearly the entire street was bordered by grassless yards. The improvement of the property, the general civic better- ment, and the uplift in moral tone is unquestionably felt. Indeed, the contagion is spreading throughout the entire AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 99 city, which is fast becoming a city of gardens and well kept homes. With continued efforts and the co-operation of all, Northampton will soon be known as the City Beau- tiful. RULES (Garden Competitors will be interested to know that these rules, worked out for this competition, are being adopted for similar competitions in other cities. ) 1. Only adult residents living within the city limits of Northampton, may enter this competition, although minors may take whatever part they choose in gardening. 2. No person may enter the competition while en- gaged in gardening as a business. 3. No competitor may hire assistance of any sort in his gardening, except in the unlimited class. 4. Each garden must belong to the dwelling of the person offering it in competition, but the place may be either owned or rented. 5. Each garden must comprise the entire house lot on which it stands. 6. No competitor may take any prize as low as he has taken with the same garden in any previous season. 7. Any garden which has taken the Capital Prize of the Carnegie Competition at least two years previously may take part in what is known as the Capital Prize Win- ners’ Competition, and may take this prize as often as its rating stands highest except that no garden can take this prize two years in succession. 8. In the rating of gardens, four merits will be counted as of leading value: First, the plan on which the garden is laid out; second, the harmony of its features as to form and colors; third, the general upkeep of walks, beds, turf and buildings and enclosures; fourth, the dura- tion of the planting. 9. The field or competition is divided into seven nearly equal districts, the ward boundary lines of the city. In each of these districts three of the prizes may be 100 HOW TO MAKE HOME awarded, and no two consecutive prizes in the list can be awarded in the same district. 10. Capital Prize Winner’s Price, $6; capital, $15; second, $13; third, $10; fourth, $9.50; fifth, $9; sixth, $8.50; seventh, $8; eighth, $7.50; ninth,$7; tenth, $6.50; eleventh, $6; twelfth, $5.50; thirteenth, $5; fourteenth, $4.50; fif- teenth, $4; sixteenth, $3.75; seventeenth, $3.50; eighteenth, $3.25; nineteenth, $3; twentieth, $2.75; twenty-first, $2.50. tr. A separate prize of $6, and a second one of $4 may be competed for by persons using hired help in their gardens, subject to these rules, except rule three. 12. Any number of not less than seven gardens op- posite one another on the same street, or adjoining one another whether on the same street or not, may form a neighborhood garden club to compete for a first club prize of $1 per garden, and asecond club prize of 50 cents per garden, payable to the regularly elected secretary of the club. 13. Gardens belonging tosuch clubs shall have every right of individual contestants in the general competition, the same as if they did not belong to clubs. 14. Anempty lot or an empty dwelling, or the oc- cupied dwelling of no more than one family, refusing to join the neighborhood garden club, shall not be counted separating any group of neighbors seeking to form a club under this rule. 15. The annual award of prizes shall be on some date in October, to be announced by the management of the People’s Institute. Seventy-five additional prizes of shrubs are given by a nursery man. All homes that the committee fail to visit to enroll, are visited by some one from the People’s Institute. The marking is done by an expert, who visits every competing garden and marks it on the points mentioned in rule eight. These are marked on a scale of 100. When visiting, he gives advise as to planning, planting and improving the grounds. AND CITY BEAUTIIVUL IOI A card is left at each place (whether any one is at home or not) stating that this competing garden officially inspected, date_________, signed by the official inspector. On the reverse side of this card are the rules for getting higher marks, as mentioned just before the rules in this chapter. The names of all persons whose gardens average over go or the ten highest in each district are given to the pre- sident of the Institute, who in turn visits and marks these gardens. The highest gardens are still again visited and marked by some other person. The prize award is made a great affair when with the shrubs over 100 prizes are given out, including 150 shrubs and about two hundred dollars in money. Stereopticon slides of the winning gar- dens are sometimes shown. CHAPTER XVI. HOW TO FORM A CITY BEAUTIFUL LEAGUE. HE progressive movement to make cities more healthy, by cleaning them up, villages and homes more attrac- tive by planting shrubs and flowers about them, is world wide. For the city officials to clean up the streets and make all public places attractive accomplishes but little compared with the co-operative effort of every one living in the community. To get the people to work unitedly is a problem. Many are willing, but they do not know how to start. The previous chapter shows a method that has worked successfully for more than half a score of years ina conservative New England city. Another plan to secure the co-operation of every organization in the city to obtain quick and lasting returns has been successfully established in many towns and cities. It is the formation of a City Beautiful League. The influence of such an organization is felt from the very start because every influential body in the community is brought into the work. TO FORM A CITY BEAUTIFUL LEAGUE. After enthusing as many persons as possible, call a public meeting at which the Mayor, the City Council, the School Superintendent, and Board of Education, the Executive Officer of the Board of Trade, Chamber of Com- merce, or Commercial Club, and the president of every organization in the city are present. An outside speaker brings enthusiasm and often means a large audience, but is not indispensable. After the address (if any) the meeting should be called to order, and a temporary chair- man elected who shall preside until a permanent chairman is chosen. A temporary secretary or clerk should be elected or appointed by the Chair. The reason for calling the meeting is briefly explained and a general discussion on the advisability of organizing may take place. 102 AND CITY BEAUTIFUL 103 In order to bring the matter definitely before the house a motion to form a permanent organization should be made. If this motion passes, the Chairman should appoint, or the body elect a Committee on Constitution and By-Laws, and a Nominating Committee. The follow- ing will serve as a guide. CONSTITUTION. ARTICLEI,NamE. The name ofthis organization shall be known as the City Beautiful League of... Art. II, puRPposF. The purpose is three-fold: First, to improve the general appearance of the yards, streets, gar- dens and alleys. Second, to encourage the boys and girls to have gardens, to grow more flowers, and to know more of Nature and of the soil. Third, to inculcate in the minds of all our people more love for the beautiful in Nature. Art. III, MEMBERSHIP. Any person may become a member of this League by paying an annual membership fee of fifty cents or more, which shall be considered as membership for the whole family. ART. IV, oFFIcERS. ‘There shall be a President, a General Vice-President, a Secretary, a Treasurer, an Auditor, and Vice-Presidents, to consist of the Mayor, Superintendent of Schools, Secretary Commercial Club, and the presidents of all women’sclubsinthecity. These officers shall constitute an Executive Committee. ART. V, MEETINGS. The League shall hold meet- ings once a month throughout the year, excepting Novem- ber, December and January. An annual meeting shall be held in February, when an elaborate program will be arranged. ART. VI, AMENDMENTS. No alteration in this Consti- tution shall be made except upon motion made in writing. This motion to be voted on at the following meeting, two- thirds of the members present must vote in favor of the motion for its adoption. A quorum for this purpose shall consist of twenty-five members. 104 HOW TO MAKE HOME By-Laws. ArT. I. OFFICERS shall perform the usual duties of their respective offices. The treasurer shall receive all moneys and pay all bills when properly approved by the Chairman of the Committee incurring the expense, and the President, unless a special Auditing Committee is ap- pointed by the Executive Committee. Art. II, The ExxcuTtvE ComMMiITTrEE shall have power to elect Standing Committees on Membership, Enter- tainment, Finance, Auditing, and arrange for competition, inspection and award of prizes. One part of their work will be to promote attractive homes by contests offering prizes for the best gardens and lawns, and to formulate rules for carrying on these contests. x * * No existing organization can do the work as wellasa new organization formed for the purpose of beautifying the city unless such organization already has every mem- ber of the city in it. The membership fee should be so low as to exclude no one. Some will give large contribu- tions. Persons living in the poorest section of the city and under the worst conditions should be especially urged to join. Results are sure to follow. Lawns will take the place of grassless yards; gardens and flowers the place of unsightly, unsanitary and unproductive back yard dumps. Whole streets will be lined with well kept lawns and well planted homes. Coming in closer contact with the soil and in the open air and sunshine will make the people nobler, better citizens. Whole families will become interested in making the home the prettiest as well as the best place on earth. Children will be occupied in gardens instead of spending their time on the corners of the street. The city of attractive homes, well-kept streets and healthy citizens will rapidly become the CITY BEAUTIFUL. H. D. HEMENWAY, Author of ‘How To Make SCHOOL GARDENS” Published by Doubleday, Page & Co., N. ¥. LECTURES ILLUSTRATED WITH BEAUTIFUL SLIDES How to Beautify Home Grounds Our Common Trees (How to know them) How to Make Home and City Attractive | The Tree, How to Set and Care for it Without Money The Gospel of Gardens, for Sunday Children’s Gardens Evenings Weekly engagements giving School Garden Training to teachers a speciality Send for Large Circular—Write for Terms H. D. HEMENWAY Northampton, Mass. Over Sixty Years’ Experience In growing and disseminating Trees, Shrubs and Plants throughout New England. Varieties suitable for this climate at prices consistent with quality. Write for catalogue. J. W. ADAMS NURSERY CO. Springfield, Mass. yy Ye ty Mees _ Z ty yyy ty ee Yi Yip Yy Zi j LL Ye Ly te Le, Ge VAY LIE. ty Uy Yi Los Me Ce ZZ Ze _ gy Co Zi Yi ty ty CY yy Ly foe yy yy Ze Ly By le Le tees ee GY: