LIBRARY OF THE NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE OF HOME ECONOMICS CORNELL UNIVERSITY ITH;ACA NEW YORK “anni COFFEE BRANCH AND BERRIES, A. Blossom. C. Fully developed berry. E. Bean in its two inner coverings. B. Embryo seed vessel. D. Beans in berry. F. Bean ready for market. COFFE, FROM ae PLANTATION TO CUP. A BRIEF HISTORY OF COFFEE PRODUCTION AND CONSUMPTION. WITH AN APPENDIX. CONTAINING LETTERS WRITTEN DURING A TRIP TO THE COFFEE PLANTATIONS OF THE EAST, AND THROUGH THE COFFEE CONSUMING COUNTRIES OF EUROPE. BY FRANCIS B. THURBER. AMERICAN GROCER PUBLISHING ASSOCIATION, 28 AND 30 Wzst BroaDway, NEw YORK. 1881. CoPpyRIGHT BY FRANCIS B. THURBER, 1881. Trow’s PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY, 201-213 East 12th Street, NEW YORK. TO THE MAN AT POUGHKEEPSIE, WHO KEEPS THE RAILROAD REFRESHMENT ROOMS, THIS BOOK IS RESPECTFULLY Medicated. I DO NOT KNOW HIS NAME, BUT YEAR IN AND YEAR OUT HE GIVES THE PUBLIC AN IDEAL CUP OF COFFEE, AND, ON THE PRINCIPLE OF “ACT WELL YOUR PART, THERE ALL THE HONOR LIES,” HE IS ENTITLED TO THE PUBLIC’S BEST THANKS. PERHAPS IN THE FAR DISTANT FUTURE SOME OTHER RAILROAD BUFFET PROPRIETOR MAY FIND THAT A GOOD CUP OF COFFEE ADDS TO, RATHER THAN DIMINISHES, THE CHANCES FOR GATHERING IN A GOODLY NUMBER OF SHEKELS, AND BE PROMPTED TO GO AND DO LIKEWISE. THERE IS EVEN A POSSIBILITY THAT THE ENGLISH STEAMSHIP LINES, WHICH NOW ENJOY A PRE-EMINENCE FOR BaD COFFEE, MAY LEARN THAT SOMETHING BESIDES GOOD SEAMANSHIP WILL ATTRACT BUSINESS, AND WHEN ‘“‘THAT NEW ZEALANDER” APPEARS UPON THE SCENE THERE MAY NO LONGER BE EXTANT ANY SUCH REPROACH AS ‘‘SON OF A SEA COOK.’? I KNOW OF NO PERSON 80 WELL ENTITLED TO THE HONOR OF THIS DEDICATION, AND sO THIS WORK IS ADMIRINGLY AND RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED TO THE MAN AT POUGHKEEPSIE, ONE OF THE CHOSEN FEW WHO KNOW HOW TO MAKE A Goop Cup or CorFEE. PREFACH. I nave endeavored to tell the story of coffee in a practical way, so as to make the information valuable alike to consumers and dealers. I have been induced to add to the innumerable com- pany of books from the fact that there seemed to be a want for a work which, besides furnishing statistical and historical matter relative to the coffee-plant, should give the reader a thorough knowledge of the characteristics of the world’s coffee supply, and the mode of preserving and preparing the coffee-bean so as to best secure all those qualities which make coffee the favorite beverage with most of the civilized nations of the earth. My reliance has been chiefly upon twenty years’ experience as a dealer, and such in- formation as was to be gathered from a trip around the world. I have to acknowledge my indebtedness to many books for facts re- garding coffee culture, and historical matter relating thereto, and also to a large circle of business acquaintances for valuable statis- tical information. To mention them specifically is hardly pos- sible, and would be of little interest to the general reader. It is, however, but just that I should here recognize the many courtesies and favors rendered me by General Joseph Nimmo, Jr., Chief of PREFACE. vii is more than likely that some defects will be noticed, and many infelicities of style or expression; and were it not for my confi- dence in the good nature and generosity of those who are likely to read the following pages, I scarcely could have summoned courage to send them forth. At least I have the satisfaction of having made an honest effort in the direction of making the breakfast tables of the land the source of greater enjoyment, not- withstanding that I may have brushed aside some fond fancies or revealed trade secrets that others would have jealously guarded. CONTENTS. CHAPTER L INTRODUCTORY, CHAPTER IL. THE PLANT AND ITS CULTURE, . CHAPTER II. PREPARATION OF COFFEE FOR MARKET, CHAPTER IV. THE SELECTION OF THE BEAN, . ° CHAPTER V. RoasTINe THE BEAN, CHAPTER VI. GRINDING, BLENDING, AND MIXING COFFEE, CHAPTER VIL MAKING THE COFFEE, The Thurber Recipe, Turkish Coffee, French Recipes, M. Soyer’s Method, A New Orleans Recipe, . Vienna Coffee, The Beverage in Brazil, Coffee in Java, Baron Von Liebig’s "Method, PAGE 18 wo wo 30 x CONTENTS. . CHAPTER VII. PAGE EarLy HIStory OF COFFER, . . s 2 é . 7 . - 53 CHAPTER IX. THE Moca BERRY, . . - + «© » i oe « « « 60 CHAPTER X. Toe JAVA BERRY, + @ ° ‘ - ¢ . . - 64 CHAPTER XI. SUMATRA, AND OTHER JAvA SortTs, . . > és é . . . 27 Celebes, . 3 . . ‘ : : . : - 81 Singapore Java, . : % : = . " é ‘ . . 86 CHAPTER XII. CULTIVATION IN CEYLON, . - Gin CR Gan ci . « « 90 CHAPTER XII. CULTIVATION IN INDIA, . ‘i eo RE te ce. Oe - 105 CHAPTER XIV. LIBERIAN AND OTHER AFRICAN GROWTHS OF ent . - 107 Liberian Coffee Berries and Poets . . 109 Propagation by Seeds, 7 . ‘ < é . Ail General Remarks, . i ‘ is : : ° é : . 113 CHAPTER XV. EMPIRE OF BRAZIL, . . . . . a . . . . . 117 CHAPTER XVI. THE BRAZILIAN PRODUCT, . ‘ . , ye a F - . 124 How Coffee is Imported, - : ‘j ‘ . é 3 . - 130 CHAPTER XVIL CoFFEE CULTURE IN THE WEST INDIES, . : : i . 187 Hayti and San Domingo, - ‘ 3 ‘ 3 . 3 3 - 142 Porto Rico, . . . . e . . . 3 - . . 144 CONTENTS. xi CHAPTER XVIII. PAGE MARACAIBO AND LAGUAYRA CoFFEE, é 146 CHAPTER XIX. CoFFEE PRODUCT OF CENTRAL AMERICA, . . ; a . - 150 CHAPTER XX. THE Correr INDUSTRY IN MEXICO AND “OTHER ea 5 . 154 Production at other Points, . : : : 5 F ‘ . 156 CHAPTER XXI. ADULTERATION OF COFFEE, - - . ‘ ‘ . 162 How M. Grévy obtained a Cup of Coffee, 3 3 i é A . 169 CHAPTER XXI. CHEMICAL ANALYSIS OF CorrEE—ITs MEDICINAL AND OTHER PROPER- TIES, ° . . : é : : : ‘i . : - - 171 CHAPTER XXIII. THE CoFFEE TRADE, . ‘ a : é ‘i 3 5 F . 183 CHAPTER XXIV. CoFFEE CONSUMPTION OF THE WORLD, . ‘ a ‘ : ‘ . 204 CHAPTER XXvV. Tue KING OF THE COFFEE TRADE, . E ‘ % qi > : . 218 CHAPTER XXVI. Tue TROPICS Best GIFT, . , a ; - : a ‘ ‘ . 221 STATISTICAL TABLES. TaB.LE I.—Imports, Exports, Consumption, and Stock of Coffee in the United States, Atlantic Coast, from 1854 to 1880, inclusive, . : . 227 TABLE II.—Receipts and eee of Coffee in the United a 1851 to 1880, inclusive, . * 7 - 228 xii CONTENTS. PAGE TABLE III.—Comparative Prices, New York Market, 1858 to 1880, inclusive, 228 TABLE IV.—Cargo Prices of Fair to Prime Rio Coffee in New York, Duty Paid, Monthly, from 1825 to 1880, inclusive, 229 Cargo Prices of Rio Coffee in New York at the Beginning of each Month, 1825 to 1845, inclusive, g 230 Cargo Prices in Gold, ‘*In Bond,” for Fair to Prime Rio Cof- fee in New York, from 1846 to 1880, inclusive, F . 231 TABLE V.—Price of Java Coffee in New York, 1858 to 1880, inclusive, + 233 TABLE VI.—Comparative Monthly and Yearly Prices for Three Years, . 237 TaBLE VII.—Receipts of Sundry Kinds of Coffee, not enumerated specific- ally, into the United States (Atlantic Coast), 1866 to 1880, inclusive, . 237 TaBLE VIII.—Circular Estimating and Proclaiming, in United States Money of Account, the Values of the Standard Coins in Circulation of the Various Nations of the World, a ‘ . ‘j a c - 238 TABLE 1X.—Premium on Gold at New York, 1862 to 1878, inclusive, . 239 TaBLE X.—Cost of Exchange in Rio de Janeiro, showing Lowest and High- est Rates of Exchange from 1850 to 1879, inclusive—in Rio de Janeiro —from Official Quotations, . | gover oF0'%6 . steretereeereeeeeessogutmog messes ees ns mist ee per i i : Pes ur supa snonBaanr 18 4 7 * (08ST) UrBdg puv (§28T) Te8nz104/98 ope'h | SNES = saM YoueIT Pus souNsg|/SE . 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THE SELECTION OF THE BEAN. How to determine quality from the appearance of the bean is a question of great importance to every interested party, from the export merchant at the place of production to the buyer for con- sumption. Between these two parties usually come the import merchant, the wholesale grocer, and the retail merchant, on whose parts re- spectively, care and knowledge are necessary, yet often wanting, to insure to the consumer a satisfactory result. Coffee is frequently damaged on the voyage of importation by dampness, which soon renders it musty ; and when the coffee-bean once becomes musty its delicate flavor is much injured, and no amount of attempted renovation can fully restore it. A greater or less portion of nearly every cargo is thus damaged. The renovat- ing process consists of opening the bags, emptying the contents out upon the floor of the warehouse, and skimming off, as well as may be, the mouldy and musty beans, which usually are those next the bag; these are kept separate. If wet, they are dried, and after- ward are often run through a polishing machine to remove the mould and give them a more sightly appearance. They are then put upon the market and generally sold for within one or two cents per pound of the price of sound coffee, although the intrinsic value is much diminished. The portion which remains after the skim- ming, is called “sound,” and is put up in new bags and sold as such, although it is far from being as good as that which has never been damaged ; for the skimming process is not perfect, and some of the musty beans remain, imparting their flavor, to some extent, to the sound beans. This fact is lost sight of by many merchants, who only look for samples which show hand- THE SELECTION OF THE BEAN, 19 somely in the hand, thus neglecting the far more important qual- ity of flavor. There is no item which enters into the supply of our tables, with which I am acquainted, unless it be butter, which is so easily injured in flavor as coffee, or which exhibits such a tendency to absorb surrounding odors. Vessels from Central and South America often arrive with mixed eargoes of coffee and hides, in which the former has been almost ruined by absorbing the smell of the latter. Roasting the coffee dissipates to some degree the “hidey” smell, yet to an expert it is very perceptible, enough remaining to destroy the delicate flavor of the volatile oil or caffeone. The same effect is produced by the foul bilge-water of vessels, and the extreme sensitiveness of coffee to surrounding odors is further demonstrated by the readiness with which roasted coffee absorbs the flavor of the wood when put in a pine box or bin. Roasted coffee should never be long kept in anything except a tightly closed tin box, or better yet, an air-tight glass or earthen jar. Different varieties of coffee show a great diversity of flavor, and even the same variety from different parts of one district will show like divergencies. Different seasons produce different qual- ities ; indeed, there are as many kinds, qualities, and shades of flavor of coffee as there are of tea, and in the latter these varia- tions, as is well known, are almost numberless. In the review of coffee production I have indicated the va- riety of kinds, qualities, and flavors which exists, and also, to some extent, the vicissitudes to which even the best coffee is exposed during the voyage of importation. From this it will be seen how necessary it is for dealers to exercise great caution in selecting their stocks. It is impossible to judge accurately of the quality and strength of coffee without roasting and making an infusion with boiling water, in a manner similar to that practised in drawing tea, and yet, strange as it may seem, itis not customary, even with the largest dealers, to judge of quality except by the general ap- pearance of the berry. Before buying a large lot, wholesale dealers sometimes roast a small quantity to see how it looks when roasted, but this is the exception rather than the rule, and by far the larger portion of 20 COFFEE. all varieties of coffee are sold simply upon their appearance in the hand. This oftentimes is exceedingly deceptive, for a bright, large-beaned, handsome looking sample will sometimes turn out to be woody and comparatively flavorless; while another that, ac- cording to the usual standard by which coffee is judged, would be rated considerably lower in price, will, when roasted, prove to be of very superior quality, greatly increasing in size during the roasting process, and developing that delicious fragrance which occasionally surprises and delights all lovers of a perfect cup of coffee. It is quite within the power of wholesale dealers to greatly improve the quality of the coffee sold by them if they will care- fully roast and try a portion of every considerable lot before buy- ing it, refusing such as do not come up to a proper standard of strength and fragrance, and especially avoiding lots which show the least trace of any musty or foreign flavor. To some extent in producing countries, and also at the large distributing points, an artificial appearance is given to the bean by “sweating,” “ polishing,” or by the use of coloring matter. By the first-named process Savanilla and other sorts (sometimes Santos) are made to imitate Padang Java. Laguayra is polished and sold for Rio. Very dangerous powders or mixtures are used to color the beans, the practice being resorted to. in order to meet the prejudices of consumers in certain sections for a bright yellow, black, or olive-green colored bean. These colors are obtained by the use of poisonous compounds. The composi- tion of these mixtures respectively, as proved by chemical analyses, is as follows (Report Department Agriculture, 1879, p- 79): Orance Powper.—Chromate of lead (“chrome yellow”), 1 part; sulphate of barium (“heavy spar”), 2 parts. Brack Powprr.—Consisted wholly of burnt bones (“crude bone-black ”). Outve-GreEn Powprr.—Chromate of lead (“chrome yellow”), 1 part; bone-black, 3 parts; sulphate of barium (“heavy spar”), 3 parts. Both the natural and the faced berries were examined, with the result that every sample of the “improved” berries was found THE SELECTION OF THE BEAN. 21 to have been treated with some powder containing the same sub- stances as those in the above olive-green powder. The amounts of foreign adulterants were— Per cent. Per cent. NOs Us Scsiie sists slepraiey sisieieies sees: 0568)| NOL FY ceuicresoe ate enienisinanes eer 0.64 NO32 vecaeciedaciieceaieeus sites ee 0.19) NOs: Bs ccccsiasinaieirsinare 6 aveates aan 0.63 NO. Sisnsscnsvaniws atarsbisietarataneye 0.08 | No. 6s sccissased sere cccnsenvens 0.58 The “uncolored” berries were what was claimed for them, viz., free from any adulteration. The Government chemist, in referring to the above, said: “The foolish demands of the people are the direct cause for the manipulation of coffee. Yet this is no reason why the na- tional legislature should not enact laws, and have them rigidly enforced, preventing the use of poisonous compounds.” There can be but little doubt that these added coloring matters must prove injurious, and, probably, directly poisonous to the con- sumer. Especially is chromate of lead liable to be changed by roasting, so that its lead may be soluble in the acids of the stomach ; and it is well known that soluble lead salts have a decidedly poi- sonous action. CHAPTER V. ROASTING THE BEAN. Tue most important of all the conditions necessary to be ob- served in the production of a cup of good coffee is the process of roasting the bean. The finest quality of coffee unskilfully roasted. will give a less satisfactory result in the cup than a poor quality roasted in the best manner. It is no easy matter to acquire the skill in manipulation and accuracy of judgment necessary to roast coffee successfully. Among professional coffee roasters some are bunglers, although their lives have been spent in the occupation, while others seem to be peculiarly adapted to the business, and with much less experience uniformly turn out good work. As in a competitive trial of firemen for steam engines, a boy of sixteen obtained more revolutions of the engine with a given amount of fuel than the most experienced engineers, so will special adapt- ability for a certain work sometimes be developed where least ex- pected. The skilful roaster can tell when the bean has been roasted to the desired degree by the aroma which is carried away in the smoke that arises during the process of roasting. The revolution which has taken place in the coffee-trade of the United States during the last twenty years, is a striking con- firmation of the principle that work can be done in the best and cheapest manner on a large scale, where machinery is employed that is controlled by the best available skill. It may safely be said that twenty years ago there was not one pound of roasted coffee sold in this country, where now there are twenty. Then retail grocers bought and sold coffee green, and consumers roasted it in an iron pot or skillet over an ordinary fire. While this method had its advantages so far as having coffee freshly roasted was concerned, these advantages were heavily counterbalanced ROASTING THE BEAN. 23 by the impossibility of obtaining uniform work from the crude appliances used, and a still greater obstacle was encountered in the lack of experience and the occasional stupidity on the part of persons intrusted with the work. At that time there were a few so-called “ coffee and spice mills,” whose proprietors roasted cof- fee for their own trade, in large cylinders turned by machinery. The results obtained were so satisfactory that wholesale grocers, in order to hold their trade, began to employ these “mills” to roast coffee for them, and this business has steadily increased until now there are coffee-roasting establishments, using steam- power, in every city of considerable size in this country, and the demand for coffee thus roasted has so increased that some of the larger wholesale grocery houses have found it expedient to erect mills especially for their own accommodation. The first complete apparatus for roasting and grinding coffee, was set up in Wooster street, New York, opposite the present Washington square. It was brought over from England by James Wilde, in 1833 or 1834, and consisted of two cylinders, with an engine of sufficient power to run the roasters and a mill for the grinding. Prior to this time, a Mr. Ward roasted coffee for the grocers, by hand, making this his special business. Mr. Withington, in Dutch street, about the same time, used horse- power for running his roasters. In 1835, the once famous Hope Mills were started in Elizabeth street, near Bleecker street. Cof- fee-roasting was undertaken by the proprietors on a large scale, four cylinders being run. These mills were burnt in 1845, after which the business was transferred to 71 Fulton street, near to the present establishment of Mr. John Bynner, who, I believe, is the oldest living representative of the coffee trade in New York. In subsequent years numerous smaller machines have been de- signed for the use of families and retail dealers. Almost without exception, however, those designed for the use of families have failed to give satisfaction, owing to the great difficulty of roasting the beans with any degree of uniformity in small quantities. The largest sized portable machines for the use of retail gro- cers have yielded somewhat better results; still it is only now and then that the experience of those using them is entirely satisfactory. It is with difficulty that uniformly good work can be obtained, and 24 COFFEE. then it is only after repeated failures, necessarily costly to the retailer, because, in addition to losing the coffee, his trade is imperilled. Oftentimes a customer, whom it has taken years to secure, has been lost during the experimental effort to acquire sufficient skill to properly roast coffee in a portable roaster. Some- times there will be too much, and then, again, too little fire; the attention of the same person cannot always be conveniently given ; the turning is not usually as steady and continuous by hand as. when done by steam-power, while it is manifestly impossible for a person only roasting occasionally to attain the same degree of skill and experience that is acquired by a fit person who makes it a business. These considerations, together with the occasional spoiling of a roast through carelessness or by a novice; losses in weight by roasting more than is necessary; the expense of a machine, and fuel, time and trouble, altogether make it doubtful whether it will pay the average retail grocer to undertake this service himself. It must also be borne in mind that the result of his work is liable to come into competition with that of adepts in the art. There may be cases where grocers are so far from any available market that they cannot obtain regular and frequent supplies of roasted coffee from the wholesale dealer, and in such cases they will, un- doubtedly, find it better to undertake the roasting of coffee sold by ‘them, than to trust to the care and attention of the average con- sumer, to whom it is an impossibility, with the facilities at command, to roast properly, and who, nevertheless, is very apt, when the result is unsatisfactory, to attribute the failure to the poor quality of the coffee furnished. Where parties attempt to roast their own coffee, their object should be to produce a rich chestnut-brown; for making “black” or French coffee, the bean should be roasted higher than usual, but the first mentioned color will best suit the majority of palates. As arule, it will not pay consumers to roast their own coffee where they are so situated that they can procure frequent supplies of the roasted article from the retail dealer; and it will be found that retail dealers, as a rule, will in turn find it to their interest to have their supplies roasted by professional roasters, whose constant practice enables them, on the whole, to turn out the best article. We believe that this policy is the most * ROASTING THE BEAN, 25 economical for retailers, as the use of machinery and the division of labor into specialties in this, as in many other branches of trade, effects a far greater saving than is possible by individual . effort when not thus organized. Dealers should buy their roasted coffee in small quantities, and this, with our extended modern facilities of communication and transportation, is quite feasible. A supply sufficient to last a week or ten days is enough to buy at a time, and if the dealer is situated close to the “mill” or wholesale grocer, let him purchase but half that quantity. Roasted coffee loses in quality and aroma from the moment it leaves the roaster; hence it should be kept in tightly closed receptacles (never in a wooden box or bin possessing any odor, for, as remarked elsewhere, it is peculiarly susceptible to surrounding odors); if exposed to the air its delicate fragrance is rapidly dissipated. The above remarks also apply to consumers, who will find that small and frequent purchases of freshly roasted coffee give better satisfaction than larger quantities purchased less frequently, and whatever quantity is purchased, it should be kept in a glass or earthen jar, ora tightly closed tin canister. Recently, roasted coffee packed in one-pound papers, has come into favor with consumers, the reason for this doubtless being that large dealers in coffee, possessing a thorough knowledge of the charac- teristics of coffee produced in the various countries, and the fla- vors which harmonize in blending, have succeeded in producing grades adapted to the tastes of different sections where coffee is largely consumed, and, doing business on a large scale, have been able to secure the greatest uniformity of result, and consequently, the utmost satisfaction to the consumer. Through being tightly sealed in wrappers while fresh from the roaster, the aroma is the more effectually preserved, while, in some instances, a preserv- ative gloss is added with this object in view. Dealers prefer this package coffee because there is no loss in weight, and the time and labor of weighing and putting up are saved; a child can hand out a package of coffee where a man would otherwise have to be employed, and the consumer also has that guarantee of correct weight and uniformity of quality afforded by the transaction of business on a large scale, where everything is reduced to an exact system. 26 COFFEE. The illustration upon the opposite page exhibits the interior of a large roasting establishment, and shows the manner of filling and emptying the cylinders, and the process of cooling the coffee. The perforated iron cylinders are built large enough to hold three hundred pounds of coffee, but not more than two hundred pounds are placed at one time in each. It will be seen from the engraving that the cylinder may be removed from over the fire upon the shaft upon which it revolves, which shaft is made to extend from the brick frame-work which protects the fire, far enough to per- mit of the cylinder being readily filled and emptied. In some roasting establishments the cylinders are so arranged that they cannot be removed from over the fire, which feature is deemed ob- jectionable by the best roasters, as, in case of any accident to the machinery the coffee could not be quickly enough removed. This arrangement also subjects the empty cylinder to the influence of a strong heat after the coffee is removed and before a new lot can take its place, the effect of which is to “speck” the coffee unless great care is exercised. Upon an average, about forty-five minutes are required to roast the berry, which, in addition to the time taken to fill and empty the cylinder and to cool and re-sack the coffee—makes the time occupied by the entire process about one hour. The Mocha and other small bean coffees will roast in a little less time than Java and other large varieties. The phrase “little less time” is full of significance to the professional roaster, for the keeping of the coffee over the fire from thirty to sixty seconds longer than is necessary will sometimes ruin the roast. For the New England trade a light roast is required, and for Western, a dark, or pretty full roast. What are termed white, dead, sour, or black beans injure the roast, in fact a very small quantity of sour beans present in a lot of coffee will greatly damage it. A well seasoned berry that is solid and oily, and from one to two years old, makes the finest roast. The white beans which are so often seen in roasted coffee are from imperfect or immature berries, analagous to the miniature kernel of corn which is often found at one end of the cob. White beans being destitute of caffeone con- taining the aroma are but little changed in color during the process of roasting, and are comparatively destitute of flavor. i \ “ies i Hil a a ie . A ta I a , I me Q fil ni a et Eo i a a l i ) COPFEE-ROASTING. ROASTING THE BEAN, 27 Shrivelled coffee, or that having a shrunken appearance, will not, as a rule, roast nicely, although some such lots will occasionally turn out a bright, handsome roast. When the berry has been sufficiently roasted and the cylinder withdrawn from the fire, the operator throws in a small quantity of cold water. The rapid vaporizing of the water carries off the heat, and the changes wrought during this part of the process cause the berry to swell, thus giving it a much more sightly and attractive appearance. The addition of water does not, as might be supposed, add to the weight of the coffee, for the heat is so intense as to immediately convert the water into steam, which readily escapes. The coffee, after being removed to the cylinder, is placed in the cooler, a large box having a heavy wire bottom through which currents of air are forced, soon reducing the temperature so that it can be handled. When cooled it is re-sacked, or put into other packages, and is then ready for shipment. The average loss of weight in the process of roasting coffee is reckoned at sixteen per cent., or sixteen pounds upon every one hundred pounds, which accounts for the higher price of roasted coffee as compared with green. This loss sometimes runs as low as fourteen and one-half per cent., and again as high as seventeen per cent., and in exceptional cases where coffee has been roasted that was very green, and grown in places not far distant, it has reached twenty to twenty-two per cent. The temperature and season of the year exert some influence, but the difference in loss depends more upon the age and consequent dryness of the coffee than on anything else. The difference in loss made between a light and a dark roast will not usually average over one percent. It is the custom not to roast as high during the summer as in the winter, because the higher the roast the greater is the tendency to sweat, the high temperature of the summer months causing the oil to exude; this soon becomes sour or rancid, and injures the flavor of the coffee. We present a table of losses made in roasting, compiled from the record of one establishment in New York. During one month a total of 173,056 pounds of all kinds of green coffee roasted showed a loss of 27,385 pounds, or .1582 per cent. 28 COFFEE, Java Java | Mara- | Mara- |) Mara- io Rio! | Rio best. |medium.| be | cabo | cabo | yest, | good. | éais. | Mook January ..... 16% | 16% | 16 | 15 | a4 | 24 | 1400 | 18% | 14 February ....| .168 | [16% | [16° | 115% | ‘14% | [1499 | [14 | [i900 | ‘14s March... .... “16% | 116 | ‘16s | ‘16s | lige | l14 | lage | lait | lar April... "15% | 175 | [i506 | 114 | lagee | Tag | lau | lage | at May 2.11.12, “16% | 1172 | la5e | 1158 | lism | T1gs | lige | [13% | lias June... 0... 115% | 17? | [15% | lage | 115% | Tages | lage | T1a | haat It will be noted that Rio loses about one per cent. less than Java or Maracaibo, which we believe can be accounted for upon the ground that the Rio bean is more solid than the Sumatra or Java berry, or even the Maracaibo bean, the latter sorts being larger and more spongy than the Brazilian product. It will be noted also that an allowance of sixteen per cent. will, as a rule, cover all the loss in roasting. The usual charge for roasting coffee for the trade is from one-half to three-fourths of a cent per pound. Since means of communication from coffee-growing countries have grown more rapid, coffee has arrived in our markets much greener than formerly, and lacking in that mel- lowness which is so highly prized by connoisseurs. As confirmatory of the preceding remarks, based upon a long experience gained in preparing and distributing roasted coffee, the following extract from a report of the late celebrated chemist, Baron Von Liebig, will be found interesting :— “The chief operation is the roasting. On this depends the good quality of the coffee. In reality the berries should only be roasted until they have lost their horny condition, so that they may be ground, or, as it is done in the East, pounded to a fine powder. “Coffee contains a crystalline substance named caffeine or theine, because it is also a component part of tea. This matter is volatile, and every care must be taken to retain it in the coffee. For this purpose the berries should be roasted till they are of a pale brown color; in those which are too dark, there is no caf- feine ; if they are black, the essential parts of the berries are en- tirely destroyed, and the beverage prepared from these does not deserve the name of coffee. ROASTING THE BEAN. 29 “The berries of coffee once roasted lose every hour somewhat of their aroma, in consequence of the influence of the oxygen of the air, which, owing to the porosity of the roasted berries, can easily penetrate. This pernicious change may best be avoided by strewing over the berries when the roasting is completed, and while the vessel in which it has been done is still hot, some powdered white or brown sugar (half-an-ounce to one pound of coffee is sufficient). The sugar melts immediately, and by well shaking or turning the roaster quickly, it spreads over all the berries, and gives each one a fine glaze, impervious to the atmos- phere. They have then a shining appearance, as though covered with a varnish, and they in consequence lose their smell entirely, which, however, returns in a high degree as soon as they are ground. After this operation they are to be shaken out rapidly from the roaster and spread on a cold plate of iron, so that they may cool as soon as possible. If the hot berries are allowed to remain heaped together, they begin to sweat, and when the quan- tity is large, the heating process, by the influence of air, increases to such a degree that at last they take fire spontaneously. The roasted and glazed berries should be kept in a dry place, because the covering of sugar attracts moisture. “Tf the raw berries are boiled in water, from twenty-three to twenty-four per cent. of soluble matter is extracted. On being roasted till they assume a pale chestnut color, they lose from fifteen to sixteen per cent., and the extract obtained from these by means of boiling water is twenty to twenty-one per cent. of the weight of the unroasted berries. The loss in weight of the ex- tract is much larger when the roasting process is carried on till the color of the berries is dark brown or black. At the same time that the berries lose in weight by roasting, they gain in volume by swelling; one hundred volumes of green berries give, after roasting, a volume of one hundred and fifty to one hundred and sixty ; or two pint measures of unroasted berries give three pints when roasted.” CHAPTER VI. GRINDING THE COFFEE, OR GRINDING, BLENDING AND MIXING COFFEE. Smre as it may seem, the process of grinding the roasted bean is one that requires considerable attention. If ground too coarsely, the coffee requires protracted boiling to extract its strength, and much boiling is fatal to a good cup of coffee. While one may grind too finely, the mistake of grinding too coarsely is that most frequently made. Just to what degree of fineness it should be ground depends somewhat upon the manner of making the coffee. If any of the filtering coffee-pots are used the grinding should be very fine, in order that the strength may more readily be exhausted by the water simply passing through; but where boiled for ten or fifteen minutes, as is most frequently the case, the coffee should be ground so that the larger particles are about the size of pin-heads. Every family should own a small coffee-mill and grind their own coffee, grinding it just as required for each meal, and the less time that elapses after grinding until the coffee is in the pot the better. The aroma of coffee passes off rapidly enough after being roasted, but still more quickly after being ground, hence the necessity for grinding it only for immediate use. If during wet weather the beans become damp and tough, so that they do not rattle when stirred, warm them up in a clean pot or skillet before grinding, stirring them meanwhile—so as not to scorch them— and thus drive off the moisture, develop their flavor and make them grind better. Most retail grocers keep a large coffee-mill and when requested will grind coffee for those customers who do not find it convenient to grind it at home; the latter method, however, is the best, as it gives the customer fresher ground coffee GRINDING THE COFFEE. 31 and a closer control as regards fine or coarse grinding. When dependent upon the store for ground coffee it is best not to buy at one time more than a supply adequate for two or three days’ consumption. Another consideration in favor of consumers buy- ing coffee in the bean is that there can be no suspicion of adulter- ation with chicory, ground peas or other substances, with which grocers are sometimes unjustly charged, and the satisfaction is thus greater on all sides. As individual tastes differ, it frequently occurs that no single variety of coffee exactly suits certain consumers, and therefore they seek to gratify their palate by either blending two sorts or mixing with one variety some vegetable substance. While some kinds of coffee possess a rich aroma they do not give to the infu- sion that “body” which is requisite to make the perfect cup of coffee. It is a very common practice to blend Java and Maracaibo in the proportion of eighty pounds of the former to twenty pounds of the latter, selling the mixture for straight Java. The addition of fifteen to twenty per cent. of Marcaibo to Padang coffee undoubt- edly improves the latter for the majority of those who are fond of Old Government Java, as it lends to the Java the essential quality which is lacking. Another popular blend is to take one-third Mocha and mix with two-thirds of fine old Mandheling Java, taking care that the two kinds have been roasted separately. Others dislike either of the above blends, and choose a mixture of Java and Rio. No definite rule can be given for combining two kinds of coffee together. The dealer should study the requirements of his trade, observing its peculiarities, and experiment until he is certain that he has found a combination that exactly meets certain wants, and once found he should adhere to the formula, being careful always to select as nearly as possible the same grade of coffee in the primary market. If conscientious in this, low prices and bargains will never be an inducement to take hold of some other variety which some anxious seller is sure possesses drinking qualities fully equal to that which he has been using. For mixed or adulterated coffee I have no liking. It has always been a mystery to me how persons who profess to be lovers of good coffee can satisfy their appetite with a decoction made of coffee and chicory, or coffee and various 32 COFFEE. known and unknown compounds which have neither the flavor nor the nutritious and stimulating properties of pure coffee. I recognize, however, the fact that the best of the mixtures do meet the taste of thousands. At the same time I am glad to re- cord that the practice of requiring the grocer to grind coffee in the presence of the purchaser has very largely reduced the sale of mixed or adulterated coffee. It may be that a time will again come similar to that of our civil war, when the scarcity and high price of coffee will make it desirable to use substitutes for coffee, and therefore I give here several formulas for mixing coffee that have stood the test of years :— No. 1.—40 pounds O. G. Java, 20 pounds Maracaibo, 25 pounds of roasted rye mixture, 15 pounds chicory. No. 2.—50 pounds of Maracaibo, 30 pounds of roasted rye mixture, 20 pounds of chicory. No. 3.—60 pounds of Rio, 20 pounds of roasted rye mixture, 20 pounds of chicory. No. 4.—40 pounds of Rio, 40 pounds of roasted rye mixture, 20 pounds of chicory. The above formulas are sufficient to show how to mix ground coffee in a manner that will furnish a good-flavored infusion. The. proportions may be altered at pleasure, always taking care to have the rye mixture in excess of the chicory. During the war and since, mixtures have found ready sale that had not over five to ten pounds of pure coffee to every one hundred. The ingre- dients should be thoroughly mixed and ground together, the dry and dusty rye mixture absorbing the moisture of the chicory, and thus preventing the mill from becoming clogged, CHAPTER VII. MAKING THE COFFEE. For this there are many recipes, and farther on will be found for- mulas for making Turkish coffee as made at Constantinople, French coffee as made in Paris, and the celebrated coffee of the Vienna cafés; also various methods in vogue in different coffee-producing countries, for all of which there are a certain number of admirers. The first consideration has been to provide a recipe adapted to the tastes of the great mass of the American people, and also to the facilities usually at command, while economizing material. With these conditions in mind I have ignored many so-called “improved” or “patent” coffee-pots, which, within my own knowledge, have yielded good results, but the expense of which, together with the fact that, as a rule, they do not utilize the full strength of the bean, makes them undesirable for many persons. The following recipe will be found plain, convenient, good, and economical, with the additional good feature that it may be slightly varied in regard to the quantity of coffee used, so that those who prefer a greater or less strength may be suited: I pre- sent it as THE THURBER RECIPE. Grind moderately fine a large cup or small bowl of coffee ; break into it one egg with shell; mix well, adding enough cold water to thoroughly wet the grounds; upon this pour one pint of boiling water: let it boil slowly for ten to fifteen minutes, accord- ing to the variety of coffee used and the fineness to which it is ground. Let it stand three minutes to settle, then pour through a fine wire-sieve into a warm coffee-pot; this will make enough for four persons. At table, first put the sugar into the cup, then 3 34 COFFEE. fill half-full of boiling milk, add your coffee, and you have a de- licious beverage that will be a revelation to many poor mortals who have an indistinct remembrance of, and an intense longing for, an ideal cup of coffee. If cream can be procured so much the better, and in that case boiling water can be added either in the pot or cup to make up for the space occupied by the milk as above; or condensed milk will be found a good substitute for cream. In order to emphasize some of the important points previously mentioned, as well as those in the above recipe, I shall recall points before noticed. Endeavor to have fresh roasted coffee, and, where practicable, grind it yourself. Never use cold milk, as coffee to be good must be hot; cream or condensed milk, how- ever, may be used cold, owing to the much smaller quantity re- quired, and by most persons one or the other will be preferred to milk. In cold weather rinse out the coffee-cups with hot water just before pouring out the coffee. Coffee should be served as soon as made, for it rapidly deteri- orates if left stewing upon the stove. This is one of the principal reasons why the coffee served at hotels and restaurants is so often of poor quality. It is not made often enough, and is usually kept simmering in a copper-boiler, which alone is sufficient to spoil the best coffee ever grown. If the coffee lacks clearness, and when milk is added turns dark, it is an indication that it is stale or the milk sour. Freshly made coffee ought to have a clear, amber- brown color, which milk will render lighter instead of darker. When coffee is served immediately after making it does not greatly matter in what kind of vessel it is boiled; a common tin coffee-pot will do, although one made of block tin is to be pre- ferred. It should be served in an earthenware or porcelain cof- fee-pot, either being much better than nickel or silver-plated, and, in order that no heat may be lost, the vessel should be rinsed with hot water before the coffee is turned into it from that in which it is made. Some connoisseurs prefer an earthen pot in which to prepare it, and advocate placing the coffee in a fine linen bag, allowing it to simmer, not boil, for ten or fifteen minutes. I now pass to the consideration of modes of making and serv- ing coffee in foreign countries. Many of the recipes and much TURKISH COFFEE. 35 of the information is the result of my own personal investigation during a trip around the world, in the course of which particular attention was given to the subject of coffee, both in producing and consuming countries. Other data have been received from reliable correspondents or occasionally borrowed from trustworthy sources. TURKISH COFFEE. Everybody has heard of Turkish coffee. While in Constanti- nople I investigated the mysteries of that far-famed luxury. In the numerous coffee-houses of the Moslem capital, when a person calls for a cup of coffee it is specially made for him. Every cof- fee-house has a number of long-handled little brass coffee-pots, made to hold one, two, or more cups, as the case may be. They are smaller at the top than at the bottom and are fitted with a little grooved spout, but have no cover. When a cup of coffee is wanted, the requisite amount of finely powdered coffee is measured into one of these little coffee-pots ; water enough to fill the pot is poured in, and it is then set upon live coals, until it heats up to just the boiling point. It is then, with- out straining or otherwise settling the grounds, poured out into a tiny cup, and this is Turkish coffee. As may be supposed, it is thick, muddy, and the lower half of the cup composed principally of grounds; but the flavor is good, and I noticed that most Turks swallowed the grounds with the same relish that they showed for the thinner part of the beverage. The Turks never use milk with their coffee ; to them the mixture would be an abomination. In Constantinople the coffee is generally ground in a mill, but in many places it is powdered with a mortar and pestle; in either case, it is almost as fine as flour—a condition which, I suppose, is necessary to get the strength of the coffee with the little boiling which they give it. The coffee used is mostly from India and Ceylon, although a considerable quantity of Arabian coffee is consumed. I am convinced that the reputation of Turkish coffee is chiefly due to the fact that great care is exercised in roasting the coffee, and not more than twenty-four hours’ supply is roasted or purchased at one time. Coffee is consumed by all classes, at all hours, and on all sorts 36 COFFEE. of occasions. The little berry is indeed a very important factor in Turkish society. Nothing is done without it; no business dis- cussed, no contract made, no visits and civilities exchanged with- out the aromatic cup and the accompanying chibouque or narghileh. If a purchaser enters a bazaar to price a shawl or a carpet, coffee is brought to him. If a person calls at another’s house, coffee with the inseparable tobacco must greet the new- comer. There can be no welcome without it, and none but words and forms of general etiquette take place until this article has been served all round. At parting, coffee must still be present and speed the guest on hisway. We are told of beggars clamoring for money to buy, not bread, as with our mendicants, but coffee. To minister to this universal demand, coffee-houses abound in all Turkish cities. In Smyrna and in Constantinople, they are as numerous as the bar-rooms in American cities. They are gen- erally small, often consisting of but one room, opening to the street or the bazaar, with a divan around three sides and carpets on the floor, where grave Turks sit cross-legged and may be seen from morn till eve alternately sipping the favorite liquid and puffing at the flexible-stemmed narghileh, or the long chibouque. T am inclined to think that the Turkish coffee-house, as it looms up in the mind’s eye of many who have not had ocular evidence of the reality, is a rather overdrawn picture; and, as we must go to London or Paris to enjoy the luxuries of a perfect Turkish bath, so it is not unlikely that only in the descriptions by imagina- tive writers shall we readily find the genuine, original, old Turkish coffee-house with its “tesselated pavement,” “sparkling fountains,” “dark and shady cypress,” and the general dazzle of decorations some of us have read about. Coffee is made and consumed in essentially the same way in Egypt and Arabia as in Turkey. Cairo is proverbial for the number of its coffee-houses, mostly establishments of small size, and of rather uninviting appearance to the foreigner. The traveller who puts up at the large European hotels in Constantinople, Cairo, and Alexandria, is given coffee made @ la Turque, with the grounds in the cup, but sweetened to accommo- date his heretical Christian notions. The sugar is placed in the coffee-pot with the coffee, and they are boiled together. TURKISH COFFEE. 37 In Greece, also, I noticed that the coffee one found at the cafés, especially in the eastern islands, was prepared Turkish fashion, and the narghileh stood ever ready-filled, awaiting the bidding of the customer. The Greek coffee-house, however, has chairs and tables, and by its size, appearance, and general stage of evolu- tion, approaches much nearer the cafés of Western Europe than the Mohammedan establishments. A peculiar and picturesque feature of the Greek cafés is their frequent outdoor development, in the shape of numerous small tables, which sometimes cover an entire public square. There the modern Hellene seeks the cool of evening in summer, or suns himself in winter, while taking his coffee and enjoying the light of his brilliant skies, of which he is still so proud. «Eternal summer gilds them yet, But all except their sun is set.” There the stranger, on pulling out his purse to pay for the cup he has consumed, may find, as it happened to me once, that it is already settled for, Greek hospitality having preceded him in this. From the coffee-houses of Stamboul to the cafés of Paris is a great leap. We are here altogether in a new school of coffee- making and coffee-drinking. If the eup of coffee which is handed to you on the shores of the Bosphorus may be considered the general type of the beverage in Eastern lands, it is perhaps equally true that the manner in which coffee is used in the French capi- tal prevails more or less over the rest of the Western world. The café au lait and the café noir are to be found everywhere among the Christian’ nations of both hemispheres. There are, of course, different methods for their preparation, which I shall notice in the course of my investigations. The reader may perhaps remember the famous axioms which Brillat Savarin lays down in his “ Physiologie du Gout:” “A beast gorges itself. “Man eats. “The man of taste alone knows how to eat.” Another French writer, a lover of coffee, formulates the fol- lowing paraphrase : 38 COFFEE. “The common run of mankind take coffee. “ A few amateurs know how to take coffee. “The man of taste alone knows how to take coffee and appre- ciate its poetic aroma.” As might be expected from the spirit which has prompted these wise and witty sayings, the art of coffee-making, as well as that of general cookery, has received profound attention in France, that classical land of good things for the inner man. While there, I elicited from a “cordon-bleu” of Paris, the following recipes, with which I am happy to favor my readers. FRENCH RECIPES. First, to make black coffee—“ café noir: ” For one cup, grind two tablespoonfuls of coffee, which pack solidly in the coffee-pot (the regular French filtering pattern) ; then pour boiling water, passing it twice or thrice through the coffee-pot. ‘ The same recipe applies to the preparation of café aw lait, which is merely black coffee to which milk is added in quantity to suit the individual taste, the proportion being generally three parts of milk to one of coffee. The French, as is well known, often mix chicory with their coffee, mostly when taken in the form of café au lait. The recipe is then as follows: For one cup, grind coffee enough to make two tablespoonfuls, mix half a tablespoonful of chicory, en semoule (in powder). After thoroughly mixing, pour boiling water and pass twice through coffee-pot. . In many French families the grounds that remain in the cof- fee-pot are utilized, for economy’s sake. Hot water is poured over them, and, after passing through, is stored in a bottle, and used the next time instead of simply water. This is said to be the manner of making the best French coffee. Some French coffee artists maintain that the roasting is best done at home, as no doubt it well may be in such knowing hands. Sometimes a simple iron pan is used for the purpose, but great care must then be taken to keep constantly agitating the berries FRENCH RECIPES. 39 with a wooden knife or spatula, bringing the operation to an end as soon as the berries have assumed a light brown color. A single burnt berry would impair the aroma. Use no butter nor lard during the process. Before grinding, the roasted berries are put on a metallic plate, which is placed on the stove and heated until the aroma of the coffee, developed by the operation, perfumes the room. Then grind in the ordinary mill and make according to the above recipe. In some of the most renowned of French cafés a mixture of different varieties of the berry is often resorted to—Mocha, Java, Martinique, Guadaloupe, or East India being generally used to- gether in carefully ascertained proportions. The result is a cup which, for its felicitous combination of strength, aroma, round- ness, and delicacy, is prized by the French epicure as a product of the highest art. There is, perhaps, no more characteristic feature of Paris than its cafés. They line all the boulevards and abound in all the principal streets, with their rows of chairs and tables on the side- walk, and their large plate-glass windows brilliantly lighted at night, through which extends the vista of the great salon (or main room), with its crowd of customers, its ornamented walls, large mirrors, and general gilding and decoration in the gay but seldom gaudy French style. Through the maze of chairs and tables wait- ers with the inevitable whiskers and long white aprons glide about, tray in hand, attending to the groups of well-behaved habztués, while the dame de comptoir, sitting on a raised platform in a sort of compromise between a box and a throne, presides majestically over the scene, computes Vaddition, gives change, and receives and returns the courteous salutation of every one who enters or who leaves. Coffee, in the vocabulary of the place, may be called for in the shape of a “demi-tasse,” a “capucin,” or a “mazagran.” The “ demi-tasse” is merely a small cup of black coffee, to which the customer occasionally adds “cognac,” “ kirsch,” or some other liqueur. When the “demi-tasse” is taken with a “petit verre” (meaning a little glass of liqueur), it is sometimes denominated a “gloria.” The “capucin,” which, however, is a term seldom used, is merely another name for “ café au lait,” but served in a 40 COFFEE. glass; while a “mazagran” is coffee taken with water instead of milk. The coffee, which is exactly the same as that of the “ demi- tasse,” is served in a tall, narrow glass, and a decanter of cold water is brought along with it; the customer does the mixing : himself. It is said that, after some glorious achievement or other in Africa, near the city of Mazagran, neither milk nor brandy being forthcoming, the French soldiers were compelled to use water with their coffee—hence the drink and its name. The “demi- tasse” costs generally from thirty-five to forty-five centimes (from seven to nine cents), with a “pourboire” of ten centimes (two cents) to the waiter. It is a curious and endless study for a foreigner to observe the life at the cafés—either at the Grand Café and the Café de la Paix, under the Grand Hotel, on the Boulevard des Capucines, the chief rendezvous of the fashionable floating population; or at the Café de Madrid, on the Boulevard Montmartre, where lawyers, journalists, and Bohemians most do congregate; or at the Café du Helder, chiefly patronized by artists, students of the military schools, officers, etc.; or at the Cafés Riche and Grétry, where he will hear no end of talk about the Bourse and the “cours des valeurs ;” or at the Grand Café Parisien, near the Chateau d’Eau, the largest of all these establishments, although not the finest; or, indeed, at any of the thousand and one cafés scattered all over the gay metropolis, and which go so far towards giving it its peculiar physiognomy. It has been well remarked that Paris without cafés would be a landscape without water, a bride without a veil, a thing incomplete and disfigured. The café is indispens- able to the Frenchman, and especially to the Parisian. He may submit to having some of his liberties curtailed, even to seeing his favorite newspaper suppressed by the authorities; but if govern- ment should lay hand on the Arch of his most cherished associa- tions and affections, he would die fighting in its defence. Life without the café would be a mockery to him. It is there that, in the morning, he often takes his first breakfast, consisting of a large cup of “café au lait” with a crisp rusk of bread, and perhaps a little butter. There he may possibly return for his second break- fast, the mid-day meal. To the café he will certainly apply again for an appetizer before dinner, or, it may be after the repast, for FRENCIL RECIPES. 41 his demi-tasse of black coffee to assist his digestion, clear the fumes of the claret, and give additional zest to the enjoyment of his cigar. And the café may see him once more, after the per- formance ‘is over at the theatre, if his stomach hints at a little cold meat, or beer, etc. At any time during the day the slightest inducement will cause him to take a seat at one of the tempting little tables; if he meets a friend, it is the best place to converse 5 if the weather is fine and people crowd the boulevards, it is the very best point of observation. If it rains, no better refuge than the cheerful hall. If he has no friend, does not care to look at the promenaders, knows not precisely what to do, whither could he go, indeed, but to the café, where he will find newspapers, and life, and comfort. Such at least were the reasonings with which IT could not help crediting the crowds of customers at whom I marvelled, as I passed café after café in full bloom and activity at almost any hour of the day or night. The café does not confine itself to the serving of coffee. It represents, in reality, a compound idea, a happy combination of the coffee-house properly so-called, the restaurant, the confec- tionery or ice-cream saloon, and the drinking saloon, or wine- room. You may always obtain there breakfast and other light meals. Besides the extract of the tropical berry, liquors, wines, beer, and drinks of all sorts are also dispensed. None, however, of the more or less disreputable and vulgar associations which the “saloon” calls up in our minds, attach to the café. It is, in every sense, proper, respectable. Perfect order, uybanity, and good manners prevail generally. Everybody goes to the café; ladies will be seen there. True, they may avoid some of the establish- ments on the boulevard, where the “ demi-monde” may, perhaps, be too fond of airing extraordinary toilettes ; but none will disdain to stop for a tutti-frutti at the Café Neapolitain, or at Tortoni’s for one of the famous ices which that renowned café furnishes. Jn the interior of most of the first-class cafés smoking is only allowed in the evening. On the whole, the café is a genial and not unhealthy factor in French life, for it has civilized drinking, and relegated intemperance to the “brasseries,” the wine-shops, and the “guinguettes” frequented by the workingmen in the poorer quarters of the city. | 42 COFFEE. The correspondent of an American periodical thus comments on the general character of the Paris cafés: “ Alimentary, and not literary, is the modern café. Times are so changed since Voltaire, Diderot, and the rest sang and shouted in the Café Procope—jested, reasoned, and made themselves im- mortal there—there are so many people who have the means to frequent cafés, and there is such an immense floating population, eager, curious, and bent on sight-seeing, that no clique can live. Its precincts, no matter how hallowed, are invaded by the leering mob and His many-headed Majesty the Crowd. Still, certain cafés are able to boast a clientéle, with the military, journalistic, artistic, or commercial element in preponderating force—cafés where the stockbrokers, students, or officers go—but the old his- toric café, the café of tradition, where you were sure to find some celebrity on exhibition—a first-class poet, or a philosopher—may be said to be defunct.” If the café of tradition has been transformed in France, it has disappeared altogether in England. Of the old coffee-houses, of which we have read so much, with which the names of Pope, Ad- dison, Steele, Dryden, Johnson, and so many other poets, writers, and public men, stand indissolubly connected in our minds, and which were all in full stir and activity in the time of Queen Anne, nothing remains at the present day; for who would ven- ture to recognize them in the solemnly magnificent clubs of Pall- Mall? The English, from the point of view of coffee, have rather fallen into bad ways, and tea has far outstripped the Arabian berry in their affections. The term “coffee-house ” in England has become hardly more than nominal, the restaurant being the prin- cipal feature, and one hears orders given for “a pint of bitter” or ‘arf and ’arf” much more frequently than for a cup of coffee. Still, that guiding-star of gastronomic England, M. Soyer, in his all comprehensive solicitude for the human stomach, could not overlook coffee. I respectfully transcribe into these pages the directions of the master: M. SOYER’S METHOD. “Put two ounces of ground coffee in a stewpan, which set upon the fire, stirring the coffee round with a spoon until quite M. SOYER’S METHOD. 43 hot; then pour over a pint of boiling water; cover over closely for five minutes: pass it through a cloth, warm again, and serve.” With the sanction of such a name, the above may be looked upon as embodying the most approved English recipe, although I believe M. Soyer was French by birth and education. Of its general observance, however, I have strong doubts, for England is certainly not the country where the ideal cup of coffee is found.. Indeed, I give it as my experience that, as a rule, the English do not know how to make coffee; and even in the very best hotels and restaurants, a sloppy mixture is served which compares very unfavorably with that to be obtained in establishments of the same grade in Paris, Vienna, or New York. Of all the outrageous travesties upon good coffee, however, the slops dignified by that name on the English steam lines ply- ing between New York and Liverpool are the worst. I have crossed on the Cunard, White Star and Inman boats, and all of these noble lines, which vie with each other in speed, safety and seamanship seem to compete as strongly in the badness of their coffee. When one is wrestling with the pangs of sea-sickness the memory of the fragrant, refreshing and grateful beverage which cheers the home breakfast-table comes strongly to mind, but oh! what a disappointment to the palate, stomach and brain is the reality which is forced upon the passenger. Repeated investiga- tions and experiments as to the cause of this have led to the con- clusion that it is almost wholly the result of either ignorance or indolence, or both. As stated elsewhere the great central truths in producing good coffee are fresh roasted, fresh ground, fresh made. As regards the first requisite it is not usually convenient to roast coffee on shipboard, nor is it necessary if supplies are purchased at each end of the voyage and kept in a tightly closed tin receptacle. The second requisite is important; the coffee should be ground in a hand-mill just before it is required for use, and if the roasted beans have become damp and tough they should. be warmed or toasted in the oven of the galley until crisp and fragrant so that they will grind easily. The third requisite, how- ever, is the most important of all. Coffee should always be gerved as soon as made, and should never be more than fifteen minutes old. It is useless for the steward to say this is too much 44 COFFEE. trouble. It is never too much trouble to trim the sails or adjust the ventilators, and it ought not to be too much trouble to make coffee every fifteen minutes during the hours when coffee is served. They understand this on French steamers, and there are fortunes in store for the steamship company that has the enterprise to combine English seamanship with a French cuisine. They have introduced the French system into English hotels ; why should it not be done upon English steamers ? In colonial times and in the early days of the Republic, New York had its coffee-houses. The names of Burn’s Coffee-house, the Merchants’ Coffee-house, and later the Tontine Coffee-house are familiar to all who are acquainted with the history of the City. They differed somewhat, however, from the European cafés in being chiefly business or political headquarters. Valen- tine’s Manual of the City of New York gives an interesting ac- count of these coffee-houses, accompanied with illustrations, showing them to have been quite stately affairs. Among other interesting matter relating to these famous old resorts we find newspaper advertisements of sales to take place there—among others “a parcel of likely negroes to be sold at publick vendue, to-morrow at ten o'clock, at the Merchants’ Coffee-house.” I must add for the honor of our metropolis that this occurred in 1750. The Merchants’ Coffee-house stood on the southeast corner of Wall and Water streets. The “ Tontine,” on the northwest corner of Wall and Water streets, succeeded to its popularity and fame; in 1795 it was in full operation. The Merchants’ Exchange was then located in the building, but subsequently moved further up Wall street. The name of “Tontine” is found as late as 1832, and to this day the buildings on this site now occupied for com- mercial purposes are known as the Tontine buildings. Browne’s Coffee-house, on Water street, between Pine and Wall, obtained considerable notoriety, in 1832, as a favorite resort of those who believed in pure coffee as an antidote to the cholera epidemic. The coffee-house, however, no longer exists among us. Amer- icans are the greatest coffee consumers in the world, but take the beverage mostly at meals, either at home or at the restaurant. There are, indeed, in New York, a number of coffee-rooms, or cafés, as they sometimes call themselves, attached to some of the A NEW ORLEANS RECIPE. 45 principal hotels; but they are expensive and rather exclusive es- tablishments and cannot be said to realize the cheerful ideas and associations called up by the word coffee-house. We are perhaps too busy a people to support cafés like those of Europe, which one sees crowded from morning to night with customers disposing apparently of endless leisure. A NEW ORLEANS RECIPE. Some of my Southern readers, no doubt, remember the cup of coffee they have drunk at the coffee-stands of the French Mar- ket in New Orleans, on the broad “levee.” Famous resorts they were formerly! There the early riser sought for the cheer of the aromatic cup; there the keeper of late hours called for the grate- ful stimulant after the theatre or the ball. The coffee to be had at the French Market was proverbial for its excellence; and the old “ auntie” who presided over one of those stands loomed up for- ever after as a prophet and lawgiver in all that pertained to coffee! From one of these venerable authorities I hold the following recipe, warranted to give the best “Creole coffee,” as she termed it: “ Roast the coffee carefully until it assumes a uniform brown color. Then cover it up and allow it to cool. Then grind and cover it up again carefully, until placed in the coffee-pot (generally of the French pattern), where it must be pressed as compactly as possible. Pour a little boiling water over it and let it filter into the coffee, then pour again a tablespoonful of boiling water, re- peating this every five minutes.” The result is a very strong extract, not more than a table- spoonful or two of water being measured in for each ordinary- sized cup of café au lait desired. If the fact of the above being 7m toto a Southern recipe could induce the average eating-house keeper at the stations along many of the Southern railways to adopt it in exchange for the one, what- ever it be, which they now follow, I think I should be laying claim by this publicity to the deepest gratitude of my Southern friends and of travellers generally. My past personal experience warrants me in crediting the following entry in the diary of a traveller, a Southerner, who had been around the world with me, 46 COFFEE. and who returned to New York via New Orleans and the South- ern States: ‘“SGRENADA STATION, MISSISSIPPI. ‘*Stopped for breakfast: tried tea, but was not equal to it; tried coffee, same result. I denominate this the champion establishment, of all places I have been at around the world, for the utter depravity of its tea and coffee.” The coffee-house flourishes both in Italy and in Spain, as any one can vouch who has seen the large and crowded cafés in the prin- cipal Italian and Spanish cities. These establishments, by their general character and by the mode of serving the beverage, belong essentially to the French school. You find them along the Corso in Rome, the Toledo in Naples, in the Galleria Vittorio Eman- uele, and around the Piazza del Duomo in Milan; along the Riva degli Schiavoni and the arcades which surround the Piazza di San Marco in Venice, etc.—seemingly ever full, but ever decent and orderly. They are, indeed, institutions, landmarks, important features of every city. The guide-book invariably gives you a list of them, and frequently, not without reason, advises you to take at least breakfast there. Ask a direction of a passer-by in the streets and he will, not improbably, answer: You know the Café di Roma, on the Corso, or the Café d'Italia; well, walk right on to it, then turn to your left, etc. And that in a country where monuments mark almost every spot. But the chances are that your informant is returning from the café or intending to go there sometime during the day, and naturally enough, in any given direction, the café is the first thing that looms up in his mind’s eye. In Madrid the Puerto del Solis the great café centre. They abound all around this noted spot, and in the principal adjoining streets. Asa rule, they do not compare in splendor of appoint- ments with the Paris cafés. One of them, however, was to me a never-failing source of wonder and interest—the great café under the Hotel de Paris, in the angle formed by the Carrera de San Geronimo and the Calle de Alcala, as they run into the Puerto del Sol. The immense hall, thus reaching from street to street, had its floor a few feet below the level of the square; and, glanc- ing through one of the large windows facing on the Puerto del Sol, one commanded a view of its entire extent. And a sight it VIENNA COFFEE. 47 was! Weweretherein winter. The sensitive Madrilefios avoided the open air and crowded into the café. Every one of the, perhaps, one hundred tables was surrounded by customers, four, six at a time; some reading the newspapers; others conversing and ges- ticulating; some taking chocolate or coffee; others playing at dominoes, or at cards; men, women, even children in the throng; here, a uniform resplendent with brass buttons and gold lace; there, a “mantilla” with a bright smile not far under it; near by, the dark gown of a priest; and over and around all, a sort of haze or mist of tobacco smoke. Customers came in, and customers went out; but look in at any time, and the same general picture greeted your eyes—busy and idle, unintelligible to an American. Besides coffee and chocolate, the national beverages, one finds in the coffee-houses of Spain, as in those of France and Italy, wines, liquors, and a great variety of refreshing drinks. These form a véry important department of a Spanish café. There is the “orchata,” a drink made of a sort of milk of sweet almonds; the “bebida de naranja” (of orange), “de limon” (of lemon), “de fresa” (of strawberry), “de guindas” (of cherry), etc.; ‘“sor- betes,” or ices, of all kinds; “espumas de chocolate, or de café ”— light, frothy creams made of these substances, and the “ panales,” or “azucarias,” a little loaf of white blown sugar, in the shape of a French roll, very light and very porous, which is allowed to dis- solve in a glass of water, and with the addition of a little lemon- juice or liquor constitutes a favorite beverage. Cigars and ciga- rettes, of course, are essentials. VIENNA COFFEE. In making coffee at the large cafés.and hotels on the Karthner Ring, in Vienna, the coffee is prepared as follows: To make six quarts, one pound six ounces of coffee are used. Within a very heavy cylinder or urn that is securely pinned to the floor or table, there is fitted a coarse sieve, a piece of cord or rope surround- ing the sieve making it fit tightly. Over the sieve there is placed a piece of Canton flannel, fastened down by means of an iron ring that fits into the rim which holds the sieve. At- tached to the sieve is an iron frame with a hook at the top. 48 COFFEE, The sieve is pressed to the bottom of the cylinder, the coffee placed upon the flannel, and boiling-hot water poured upon it. This receptacle is then closed and covered, and allowed to stand six minutes. A screw fitted into an iron frame is then hooked on to the frame holding the sieve, which is then forced toward the mouth of the urn, the pressure forcing the infusion through the Canton flannel. The coffee is then ready to be served with hot milk and whipped cream. For the use of families a coffee- pot of a somewhat novel character is employed. This is more complicated than the simple contrivance described above. The water is boiled by means of an alcohol lamp underneath the pot. When the water boils the steam passes through a tube, and through the finely-ground coffee which has been placed loose in the top, and protected by several strainers. A glass top enables the operator to see when the coffee is ready for use, and when finished the glass cover is removed and a metallic one put in its place. This process secures a perfect infusion of the coffee with- out loss of aroma, and it has made Vienna coffee deservedly popular. THE BEVERAGE IN BRAZIL. Brazil is not only the largest coffee-producing, but also, essen- tially, a coffee-drinking country. Coffee constitutes almost the exclusive beverage of the people, by whom it is consumed very largely, especially in the regions where it is grown. They almost universally take it “‘ black,” as we term it—that is, without milk. The coffee is roasted as with us, sometimes in closed roasters, but more frequently in open pans. Asa rule, it is more roasted than with us, and a larger quantity used, the beverage being taken very strong. It is made by grinding the coffee very fine, almost to a powder, placing it in a woollen bag, upon which boiling water is poured and the strength thus extracted. Coffee-houses abound in Rio Janeiro. They are generally of smaller size than their European or North American namesakes, but provide for three cents, a cup of coffee which is said to equal any to be found in Paris or New York. It seems to be a matter of indifference to the great mass of Brazilian coffee-drinkers COFFEE IN JAVA. 49 whether new or old coffee is used; but there are epicures among the rich planters of Brazil who keep the coffee destined for their own table five or six years in the hull. It is claimed by good judges that there is no coffee in the world superior to old Rio pre- served in the hull until mellowed by age; it develops thus a rich- ness, and at the same time a delicacy of flavor not found in any other variety of the bean, but for this I cannot personally vouch. COFFEE IN JAVA. In Java and Sumatra the natives roast the leaves of the coffee- tree, and make with them an infusion which they prefer to the beverage extracted from the bean. The preparation is said to possess a delicate flavor, not unlike that of tea—a resemblance accounted for by the presence in both plants of the same chemical principle, caffeine or theine. The coffee leaves appear to be rich in caffeine. The use of this coffee-leaf tea, however, is confined to the aborigines. The following recipe, which I procured from an old resident when in Batavia, describes the process of coffee-making as practised by the Dutch settlers in Java: “Take a coffee-pot composed of two detached parts, the lower one a reservoir, and the upper one a sort of top-story filter, the bottom of which is pierced with very fine holes. Over the bottom of this filter a double piece of flannel cloth is placed so as to cover it entirely, fitting well all round. A sufficient quantity of well- ground coffee being then filled in and firmly tamped or rammed down, cold water is slowly poured over it, after which the whole is allowed to stand still until the water has passed through the coffee into the reservoir underneath. The passing of the water through the coffee should occupy at least four to five hours, in or- der to extract the full strength and flavor of the substance. For that reason, care must be exercised to press the coffee very tightly into the filter—an operation facilitated by this part of the coffee- pot being separable from the other. The filter should also be high and narrow to retard the passage of the liquid, and large enough to contain the required quantity of both coffee and water ; to pour in a subsequent supply of water is not. to be recommended.” 4 50 COFFEE, It will be observed that this filter is very similar to the familiar French filtering coffee-pot. The extract thus obtained should be of such strength that, mixed with three or four parts of hot milk, it will give a splendid cup of café au lait a la Hollandaise. Coffee, being exceedingly cheap, is used in profusion in Java, but the form of coffee-making as there in use is probably too ex- pensive for any but a coffee-producing country. I may remark here that the coffee which a traveller ordinarily finds at the hotels in Java, and in Ceylon as well, is not such as he might anticipate. At many of the stations along the lines of the New York Central, or New York and New Haven railroads, one can get a cup of coffee which is perfection itself, compared with that which is offered the traveller in Java or Ceylon. BARON VON LIEBIG’S METHOD. Baron Von Liebig, some years since, commented upon the dif- ferent methods of making coffee, and also furnished the world with the manner in which he prepared it for his own use: “The usual methods of preparing coffee are, 1st, by filtration ; 2d, by infusion ; 3d, by boiling. “Filtration gives often, but not always, a cup of coffee. When the pouring of the boiling water over the ground coffee is done slowly, the drops in passing come in contact with too much air, whose oxygen works a change in the aromatic particles, and often destroys them entirely. The extraction, moreover, is incomplete. Instead of 20 to 21 per cent. the water dissolves only 11 to 15 per cent., and 7 to 10 per cent. is lost. “ Infusion is accomplished by making the water boil, and then putting in the ground coffee, the vessel being immediately taken off the fire and allowed to stand quietly for about ten minutes. The coffee is ready for use when the powder swimming on the surface falls to the bottom on slightly stirring it. This method gives a very aromatic coffee, but one containing little extract. “ Boiling, as is the custom in the Kast, yields excellent: coffee. The powder is put on the fire in cold water, which is allowed merely to boil up a few seconds. The fine particles of coffee are drunk with the beverage. If boiled long the aromatic parts are BARON VON LIEBIG’S METHOD. 51 volatilized, and the coffee is then rich in extract, but poor in aroma. “ As the best method I adopt the following, which is a union of the second and third: The usual quantities both of coffee and water are to be retained ; a tin measure containing half an ounce of green berries, when filled with roasted ones, is generally sufficient for two small cups of coffee of moderate strength, or one so-called large breakfast-cup (one pound of green berries, equal to sixteen ounces, yielding, after roasting, twenty-four tin measures) of one- half ounce, for forty-eight small cups of coffee. With three- fourths of the coffee to be employed after being ground, the water is made to boil ten or fifteen minutes. The one-quarter of the coffee which has been kept back is then thrown in, and the vessel immediately withdrawn from the fire, covered over, and allowed to stand for five or six minutes. In order that the powder on the surface may fall to the bottom it is stirred round; the deposit takes place, and the coffee poured off is ready for use. In order to separate the dregs more completely the coffee may be passed through a clear cloth, but generally this is not necessary, and often prejudicial to the pure flavor of the beverage. The first boiling gives the strength, the second addition to the flavor. The water does not dissolve of the aromatic substance more than the fourth part contained in the roasted coffee. “The beverage, when ready, ought to be of a brown black color; untransparent it always is, somewhat like chocolate thinned . with water; and this want of clearness in coffee so prepared does not come from the fine grounds, but from a peculiar fat resem- bling butter, about twelve per cent. of which the berries contain, and which, if over-roasted, is partly destroyed. In the other methods of making coffee more than half the valuable part of the berries remains in the ‘ grounds’ and is lost. “To judge as favorably of my coffee as I do myself, its taste is not compared with that of the ordinary beverage, but rather the good effects might be taken into consideration which my coffee has on the organism Many persons, too, who connect the idea of strength or concentration with a dark or black color, fancy my coffee to be thin and weak, but these were at once in- clined more favorably directly I gave it a dark color by means of 52 COFFEE: burnt sugar or by adding some substitute. The real flavor of coffee is so little known to most persons, that many who drank my coffee for the first time doubted of its goodness, because it tasted of the berries. A coffee, however, which has not the flavor of the berry is no coffee, but an artificial beverage, for which many other things may be substituted at pleasure. Hence it comes that if to the decoction made from roasted chicory, carrots, or beet- root, the slightest quantity of coffee be added, few persons detect the difference. This accounts for the great diffusion of each such substitute. A dark mixture, with an empyreumatical taste, most people fancy to be coffee. For tea there are no substitutes, as everybody knows what real tea is like.” The charm of many breakfast-tables is taken away by the ef- fects of an unclean coffee-pot. The vessel should be thoroughly cleansed before using, especially the bottom of the receiver and the spout, and under no circumstances should the grounds or stale coffee be allowed, after using, to remain in the pot for any length of time. Economy in the use of ground coffee is fatal to securing a delicious beverage. To sum up, the essentials required to secure a, cup of coffee suited to any table are: First.—The very best quality of freshly roasted and ground coffee. Second.—Thoroughly clean utensils. Third.—Enough coffee, and prepared with sufficient care in the manner most according with the taste of the consumer, either as café noir, café au lait, Vienna style, or in the Arabian, Turk- ish, or Brazilian method. CHAPTER VII. EARLY HISTORY OF COFFEE. In Abyssinia and Ethiopia, where the coffee-plant is found both wild and in a cultivated state, coffee seems to have been used as a beverage from time immemorial. In those remote regions the Arabs are said to have first tasted the fragrant draught, and, wondering much and approving greatly, to have brought over, toward the beginning of the fifteenth century, some of the pre- cious beans into their own country, where the use of the bev- erage spread rapidly. Different accounts, however, are given by the Arabs of the way in which this favorite drink of theirs first gained introduction into Arabia. In an Arab manuscript, pre- served in one of the public libraries of Paris, it is stated that the Mufti of Aden, travelling in Persia, became acquainted there with the use of coffee, which had for long years been known in that country and in Africa, and introduced it into Arabia. The date of this important event is also laid down, in the above-mentioned work, at about the beginning of the fifteenth century. This makes the introduction of coffee into Arabia a comparatively recent oc- currence—dating not much more than half a century before the discovery of America, and about eight hundred years after the time of Mahomet. According to another version, a mollah, rejoic- ing in the name of Chadeby, was the first Arab to take coffee, and this he did to conquer a perpetual sleepiness which sadly inter- fered with his evening prayers. Still another legend ascribes to the vigilant superior of an Arabian monastery the first experi- ment in coffee-drinking. This worthy man, it seems, had end- less trouble with his dervishes, from their invariable tendency to sleep during evening service. Having heard of the peculiar ef- fects of coffee upon the goats which browsed upon the plant, he 54 COFFEE. bethought himself of trying the virtue of the berry upon his monks. The experiment proved a complete success; the der- vishes took eagerly to the new beverage, to the sacrifice of their formerly cherished slumbers. Laymen followed the example—even those who did not need to be kept awake, and coffee became the national drink of Arabia. The Mahometan pilgrims who flocked annually to Mecca were initiated into this new fragment of the Faith, and carried back coffee-beans in their saddle-bags to all parts of the globe professing the faith of Islam. Coffee overran Egypt. It reached Constantinople. In that city there was a great rush to the coffee-houses as soon as these establishments were opened. But for some reason or other coffee excited the animosity of the priests. Perhaps it was jealousy of the new shrines in the land! According to one account, the Arabs having called coffee kahwah, which was an old word in their language for wine, the result was a confusion of ideas; hence the ire of the bigoted. Others state that the gatherings at the coffee-houses furnished such opportunities for discussions as to alarm the government, which, under Amurat III., ordered the closing of all these public places, and allowed the use of the beverage only in the privacy of the family. But coffee was already enthroned in the Turkish heart. It triumphed over all. The edict could not be maintained. Similar discomfiture attended another attempt, at the time of the Candian war, during the minority of Mahomet IV., to suppress the coffee- houses. Nor were the opponents of coffee more successful in Cairo. We read that, in the year 1523, a certain Abdalla Ibra- him, the chief priest of the Koran in Cairo, began, from the pul- pit of his great mosque, a violent campaign against coffee-drinking. Thereupon the Cheik el Belek, or governor of the city, assembled all the doctors of the law, and after listening with patience to a long discussion, he simply had coffee served all round; and then he rose and left, without saying a single word. There never was heard in Cairo any more preaching against coffee. The first coffee-house in Europe was established in 1554, in Con- stantinople. It was not, however, till the middle of the follow- ing century, nearly two centuries after its first introduction into. EARLY HISTORY OF COFFEE. 55 Arabia, that coffee stepped over the boundaries of Mohammedanism, and was introduced among the Christian nations. The first coffee- house in London was opened in Newman’s Court, Cornhill, in 1652, by a Greek named Pasqua Rossie. This Greek, says a writer on the subject, “was the servant of an English merchant named Edwards, who brought some coffee with him from Smyrna, and whose house, when the fact became known, was so thronged with friends and visitors to taste the new beverage, that, to relieve himself from annoyance, Edwards established his servant in a coffee-house.” As early as 1658 the use of coffee had been revealed to the inhabitants of Marseilles by merchants and travellers. About that year, Thévenot, a citizen, on his return from his Eastern trav- els, is said to have “regaled his guests with coffee after dinner.” “This, however,” says Le Grand d’Aussy in his “ Vie Privée des Francais,” “was but the eccentricity of a traveller, which would not come into fashion among such people as the Parisians. To bring coffee into credit, some extraordinary and striking cir- cumstance was necessary. This circumstance occurred on the ar- rival, in 1669, of an embassy from the Grand Seigneur Mahomet IV. to Louis XIV. Soliman Aga, chief of the mission, having passed six months in the capital, and during his stay having ac- quired the friendship of the Parisians by some traits of wit and gallantry, several persons of distinction, chiefly women, had the curiosity to visit him at his house. The manner in which he re- ceived them not only inspired a wish to renew the visit, but in- duced others to follow the example. He caused coffee to be served to his guests, according to the custom of his country; for since fashion had introduced the custom of serving this beverage among the Turks, civility demanded that it should be offered to visitors, as well as that these should not decline partaking of it. If a Frenchman, in a similar case, to please the ladies, had pre- sented to them this black and bitter liquor, he would have been rendered forever ridiculous. But the beverage was served by a Turk—a gallant Turk—and this was sufficient to give it inestima- ble value. Besides, before the palate could judge, the eyes were seduced by the display of elegance and neatness which accom- panied it; by those brilliant porcelain cups into which it was 56 COFFEE. poured; by napkins with gold fringes, on which it was served to the ladies. Add to this the furniture, the dresses, and the foreign customs, the strangeness of addressing the host through the inter- preter, being seated on the ground, on tiles, etc., and you will allow that there was more than enough to turn the heads of his visitors. Leaving the hotel of the ambassador with an enthusiasm easily imagined, they hastened to their acquaintances, to speak of the coffee of which they had partaken; and Heaven only knows to what a degree they were excited.” Marseilles lays claim to the first coffee-house in France, 1671. In the following year, an Armenian, named Pascal, opened a shop at the Fair of Saint-Germain, near Paris, in which he dis- pensed the exotic beverage to the sightseers. This success en- couraged him to establish a coffee-house in the capital, on the Quai de Ecole. It was small in proportions and modest in ap- pointments, chiefly frequented by travellers, knights of Malta, and officers of the army and navy; but it soon achieved with these considerable reputation, sold its coffee very high, and proved a most profitable venture. Pascal is said to have subse- quently gone to London, to engage there in the coffee trade. Is it not barely possible that this person is identical with the Greek, Rossie, previously mentioned? At last, an enterprising spirit, Etienne d’Alep, built what was for the time a magnificent hall, with mirrors, divans, marble tables, etc., in the Oriental taste. He soon had several competitors. The celebrated Procope, after having long sold coffee at the Fair of Saint-Germain, founded in 1689, in the rue des Fossés Saint-Germain, in Paris, near the theatre of the Comédie Frangaise, the establishment which has since been immortalized by its association with the names of Boi- leau, Lafontaine, Moliére, and later, Voltaire, the Encyclopedists, etc. Later on, under Louis XV., the famous Café de la Régence was established, which became the Mecca of chess-players. The café had definitively struck root in Paris, and no breeze of politi- cal change or popular fickleness was ever to destroy it, In London the growth of coffee in popular favor had been still more rapid. “Three years after the first introduction of coffee upon the statute books,” says Mr. Simmonds, “the increase of houses for its sale had become so great that by the Act passed EARLY HISTORY OF COFFEE. 57 in 1663, ‘ For the better ordering and collecting the duty of excise, and preventing the abuses therein’ (15 Chas. II., Cap. IT., Sect. 15), express provision is made for the licensing of all coffee-houses at the quarter sessions, under a penalty of £5 for every month during which any person should retail coffee, chocolate, or tea, without having first procured such license from the magistrates. From that time to the Revolution, coffee-houses multiplied so rap- idly that, when Ray published his ‘History of Plants,’ in 1688, he estimated that the coffee-houses in London were at that time as numerous as in Cairo itself ; while similar places of accommo- dation were to be met with in all the principal cities and towns in England.” Indeed, such favorite meeting-places had the coffee-houses become with the politicians and wits of London, “for discussing, theorizing, and general wagging of tongue,” under the exhilara- tion of coffee, that in 1675 the government of Charles II. came to look upon them as public nuisances, and endeavored to have them prohibited by the courts of law as “ hot-beds of seditious talk and slanderous attacks upon persons in high stations.” A decision was, in fact, rendered to that effect; but, in England as in Turkey, coffee rose superior to its foes. The English coffee- houses could not be stifled; they grew daily in popularity and attained the height of activity and splendor in the first half of the eighteenth century. It is curious to contrast this immediate and enthusiastic adop- tion of coffee-drinking in England with its rather slow begin- nings in France—a country which has since become as devoted to coffee as England has grown indifferent to it. A French writer suggests that one of the reasons why the English took so quickly to coffee was that Great Britain, neither at home nor in her colonies, had any cheap and good wines. By the use of the new stimulant not only the British stomach, but British pride was grat- ified ; for England, ever disliking dependence, political or com- mercial, had not to borrow coffee from her continental neighbors, with whom she was on doubtful terms. France, on the contrary, raised an abundance of wines. Coffee found the grape in full possession of the popular heart. The “ cabarets,” or wine-shops, were resorted to openly and generally by the young nobility, the 58 COFFEE. celebrated authors of the time, the military, etc. In fact, wine- drinking was a national trait, and, besides the extreme cheapness of wine, many Frenchmen were inclined to look with disdain upon the new “drug.” Even when coffee had come into general use, says one author, some pig-headed old patriots, who had sworn never to forsake the bottle, persisted in frequenting the wine-shops out of a sheer spirit of nationality. It is also well known that Louis XIV. did not like coffee, which is as much as to say that the court did not, nor fashionable society. The ladies of the “grand monde,” with Madame de Sévigné at their head, had declared themselves decidedly against coffee. ‘ Racine and coffee will pass,” predicted the amiable letter-writer. But all this opposition gradually fell; even then, as we have seen, inde- pendent spirits did not follow these prejudices. The next king, Louis XV., to please his mistress, Madame du Barry, began to take coffee; immediately all the court went wild over the bever- age, which already had hosts of fervent worshippers in the outside public. At the beginning of the eighteenth century, the consumption of coffee was probably general among the fashionable and upper classes in England and on the Continent. With new sources of supply in the following years, the use of the beverage extended downward among the people generally. The Germans, who had long been preceded in the practice by the Netherlanders, began drinking coffee during the seven years’ war (1756-1763). Several of the smaller German states at this time, says a Dutch writer, considered the use of coffee a very dangerous innovation, and proc- lamations were issued prohibiting its use, with the view thereby to prevent an outflow of money from the country. These ridiculous measures only stimulated the consumption, and, at the commence- ment of the present century, coffee was known all over the west- ern part of Europe, and considered one of the most important staple articles. Nothing less than the hand of Napoleon clutching Europe by the throat sufficed to check for a while the drinking of coffee. The “Continental Blockade” and the enormous prices consequent thereupon restricted coffee drinking for many years to the wealthier classes on the Continent. But Napoleon fell, and a few years later, after the readjustment of the supply and demand, EARLY HISTORY OF OOFFEE, 59 coffee steadily resumed the course of its popular conquests, which are still extending. For more than fifty years after the introduction of the bev- ; erage into Europe, Arabia still furnished the entire coffee-supply of the world—a necessarily very limited quantity. Then the Hollanders, in the second decade of the eighteenth century, made their appearance in the markets of Europe with the product of Java. In a few years the culture extended to the West Indies, where it spread with wonderful rapidity. Those islands had become, in the beginning of the present century, the chief source of supply, the industry in Java having in the meantime progressed at a comparatively slow pace. Another revolution worked itself out toward the middle of the century. There was witnessed the gradual decline and almost abandonment of coffee- production in the West Indies, brought about by low prices, the scarcity of labor, political disturbances, the adoption of more re- munerative cultures, etc. But Java, in the East, had already de- veloped to vast proportions her coffee-industry, while an immense coffee-producing power was growing up in South America—Brazil not only soon overtook Java, but continued to advance, until, at the present day, more than one-half of the coffee consumed in the world issues from her fields. Java now holds the second rank in the list of coffee-producers, while Ceylon follows close on the heels of the Dutch Island, and, of late, Southern India and Central America have assumed a very decided importance as coffee-pro- ducing countries. Thus Brazil, in the Western Hemisphere, and Java and Sumatra, Ceylon and India, in the Eastern, constitute at this time the great centres of coffee-production, with minor areas of culture scattered in the West Indies, Mexico, South and Central America, Arabia, the Eastern Archipelago, and the western and eastern coasts of Africa. CHAPTER IX. THE MOCHA BERRY. In popular estimation Arabian coffee, known as Mocha, ranks as * the finest. For more than four centuries coffee-culture has been carried on in Arabia, and for two centuries that country furnished the world with its supply, which was, however, limited. As stated elsewhere, while Abyssinia claims the honor of giving the coffee- tree to the world, Arabia furnished to Java the first plants grown in the East Indies, and Java, in turn, transmitted the tree to Europe, whence the West Indies and Brazil obtained it, so that virtually Arabia gave to the world the far-famed plant. The coffee-production of Arabia, however, cannot be said to have, at the present day, any real importance in the world’s supply. The quantities of genuine Arabian coffee which reach Europe and America are very small, and it is estimated that only about four thousand tons of coffee are now annually exported from Arabia, although thirty years ago the exports reached 10,000 tons. East India coffee is now freely imported into Arabia, and even the product of Brazil finds its way to the Arabian coffee-pot. ‘Fhe plant is mostly cultivated on terraces in the hills of Yemen, toward the districts of Aden and Mocha. The excessively hot, dry, and sandy character of the region renders irrigation and shade indispensable, and these peculiarities of soil and climate are said to account for the smallness and the acrid flavor of the Mocha bean. Certain it is that Mocha seeds planted in Brazil produce trees which in a short time give Brazil, and not Mocha coffee. In Arabia the berries are dried in the pulp, and the processes em- ployed in preparing the bean for market are most primitive. The product, especially in the lower grades, remains very imperfectly cured, and generally mixed with fragments of hull, small stones, ARABIAN COFFEE PLANT. THE MOCHA BERRY. 61 and other extraneous substances. A portion of that destined for export finds its way to Aden, whence it is reshipped on passing steamers. Captain Hunter, author of a monograph on Aden, gives the following interesting account of coffee-cultivation in Arabia : “There are three distinct states in its culture: 1st, the prep- aration of the seed; 2d, the sowing; and 3d, the bedding out of the plant. The seed is prepared by removing the shell or per- icarp; it is then mingled with wood-ashes and dried in the shade. Seed thus prepared is frequently purchased by planters who seek to avoid the trouble of preparation. The seed is planted in pre- pared beds of rich soil, mingled with manure consisting of cattle and sheep dung. The beds are covered with the branches of trees to protect the young plants from the heat of the sun during Octo- ber, November, and December. They are watered every six or seven days. After about six or seven weeks the plants are careful- ly removed from the ground in the early morning, placed in mat- bags, and carried to the field or gardens, which are always in the vicinity of springs of water. The plants are placed in rows, at a distance of from two to three feet from each other, and are watered every fortnight; if necessary, the soil is manured. After about two, or sometimes three, or even four years, the tree begins to yield. The quantity of coffee brought to Aden, chiefly on the backs of what Madame Rachel used to advertise as ‘swift drom- edaries,’ now amounts to about eighty thousand hundred-weight a year. About seven thousand camel-loads passed the barrier in the year 1875-76. The value of coffee now exported is some- thing over £300,000 a year, and of the fifty-seven thousand hun- dred-weight exported in 1875-76 one-half went to France.” The bulk of the supply is sent to London and Marseilles; but two or three of the leading importing houses in this country have agents in Aden and Alexandria, who select and ship to Boston and New York the genuine Mocha, in addition to which there is received a good deal that is only Mocha in name. Generally, the coffee arrives here in large bales containing smaller packages, styled eighth (forty pounds) and quarter bales (eighty pounds), pe- culiar in shape and constructed of a coarse material, sewed with a vegetable substance that becomes hard and excessively tough by 62 COFFEE. age. The tare allowed varies somewhat—from two and a half to three and a half pounds on eighths, and from four to four and a half pounds on quarter bales. The infusion made from the roasted beans possesses a heavier body than that from Java, and has a some- what pungent or acrid flavor. When fresh roasted, Mocha gives forth a rich aroma, regarded by many as superior to that of other sorts; but some connoisseurs regard Mocha as inferior to the finest Java and the choice kinds produced in other countries. The high repute in which it is held is undoubtedly due more to its scarcity, its former reputation, and the fact that Arabia was the starting- - point from which the nations using coffee obtained their supply, than to its being superior to choice selections of other varieties. As in all other kinds of coffee, however, we find good and poor qualities. At Aden and Alexandria the coffee is carefully picked over and assorted in compliance with the singular fashion in trade, which creates a demand in Europe for the larger beans, while the United States will have none but the smaller ones. In point of fact, the larger beans are the best, being fully developed and more perfect, both in appearance and flavor; but fashion in food is all- powerful in this as in other branches of trade. A striking illustra- tion of this is found in the item of pepper: in public estimation white pepper is superior to black, and I had always supposed that they were two distinct varieties, but when visiting a pepper-plan- tation at Singapore, a few years since, I found that white pepper was simply black pepper which had been soaked in water during the process of preparation until the black outside skin could be rubbed off, leaving the white inside kernel. The most desirable aromatic properties are contained in the skin and a thin layer of matter next it, and both of these are sacrificed to a mistaken no- tion of consumers that white pepper is more pleasing to the eye. When to this fact is added another, that the process of preparing white pepper is long, tedious, and costly, making it necessary to charge, perhaps, fifty per cent. more for the white than for the black article; and further, that chemicals are sometimes used to bleach the white kernels still whiter, injuring the flavor still more, and making it positively bitter—the absurdity of this fashion is evident. But to resume the consideration of Arabian coffee: up the Red Sea, about one hundred and twenty miles from Aden, is the THE MOCHA BERRY. 63 little port of Mocha, which furnishes the trade-name for the Ara- bian coffee, and from whence, until the construction of the Suez Canal, when Aden was made the port of call for the Eastern steam lines, most of it was exported. Now it goes either to Aden by native trading vessels or to Alexandria by the Khedive’s Red Sea line of steamers. Considerable quantities of African coffee from the north coast also find their way, through the Berber and other native traders, to the same destination and go into consumption as “Mocha.” ‘The imports received into the United States under the name of Mocha amounted in 1878 to 12,788 bales, in 1879 to 16,346 bales, and in 1880 to 14,172 bales—only about one- half of which were probably of Arabian growth. CHAPTER X. THE JAVA BERRY. Tue coffee that occupies the highest place in the estimation of the American public, and, with the single exception of Mocha, commands the highest price, is Java, deriving its name from the island where it is produced, although, as with many other articles of commerce, the name has, to a considerable extent, become a generic one, applying to all coffee of similar character produced in the same part of the world. In point of fact, almost the entire portion of the “Java” coffee consumed in the United States is produced on the Island of Sumatra. It is none the worse for this, however, and indeed the Sumatra coffee is generally pre- ferred by American connoisseurs to that of Java growth. In the early history of the industry the propagation of the coffee-plant progressed slowly in Java. It began in 1696 by the introduction of plants from Malabar; but it was not until-1712 that the first invoice of Java coffee apeared in the Amsterdam market, consisting of 974 pounds, of which more than one- half was mountain coffee. It was sold for 23% stuivers per Amsterdam pound, equivalent to 432 cents per United States pound. It brought, however, such a high price as to induce strict orders to push its cultivation on a larger scale. Twelve years later, 1,396,486 pounds of this coffee were sold in Amsterdam, and coffee henceforth held undisputed priority among the staples of Java. After a period of comparative inactivity under the management of the Dutch East India Company, the government of the Netherlands established the system of cultivation which is still in existence, and which by degrees has developed the pro- duction of Java to its present magnitude. This system is, in brief, a monopoly of the Dutch government. The coffee is raised by the natives under the supervicion of the government, which buys the entire product at a low fixed price, and disposes of it through THE JAVA BERRY. 65 the “Maatschappy,” or Netherlands Trading Company, by sales at public auction, either in Batavia, Padang, or Amsterdam. There are also plantations owned and worked by individual proprietors, but the aggregate production of these estates amounts to only about one-sixth of the entire yield of the island. These planta- tions were mostly in existence before the adoption of the govern- ment monopoly system, or are worked on lands of inland princes who have retained that part of their native sovereign rights. A visit to Java, made in 1876, afforded me an opportunit> of inspecting the Java coffee-fields and the methods of cul- ture. One of the finest estates visited was that owned by Mr. J. W. E. de Sturler, situated in the Preanger district. It com- prises upwards of 20,000 acres, upon which, at various elevations, are grown rice, coffee, tea, cloves, and nutmegs. The coffee-plan- tation covers over 800 acres, upon which I found more than half a million trees in all the various stages of growth and bearing, producing in average years 3,000 piculs (408,000 lbs.), which would be equivalent to 3,000 government bags, or 6,000 half-picul mats. The trees are here raised from the seed, which is the regular coffee-bean of commerce, and begin bearing at the age of two years, their product annually increasing thereafter for many years. The yield varies greatly, however, with different trees and different years, a tree in full bearing producing from one to two pounds of beans per year. The trees are set at regular inter- vals of about ten feet, although in some plantations they are set in rows somewhat closer than this, the rows, however, being about that distance apart. The trees are kept pruned down to a height of about ten feet, the top being cut off, thus causing the tree to spread. The diameter of the trunk, of course, varies with age, but the average size of trees in full bearing may be said to be about that of a man’s wrist. In Java the picking begins in January, and lasts for three or four months. In this work men, women, and children are employed, and as the fruit is brought in from the field in baskets it is thrown into large heaps, where it is allowed to ferment for about three days. It is then spread out in the sun to dry, which usually takes two weeks or more, according to the weather, and when dry it is put into a hulling-machine as described in a previous chapter. After the beans are carefully 4 66 COFFEE. picked over and assorted they are packed for transportation to the shipping ports. There the coffee is “dumped,” and the planter’s bags returned to him, and when sold it is understood to be “in bulk,” the purchaser having to provide his own bags for shipment. The coffee is also prepared by the other and newer method, com- monly designated the “washed” or “ West India preparation.” The advocates of the old method claim, however, that it retains the caffeone, in which is embodied the flavor of the coffee, in a much greater degree, and that it is therefore superior to the washed coffee. In this, after repeated trials, I am inclined to con- cur, although many professionals claim that the “dried hulled” coffee is inferior to the washed. Mr. de Sturler sells his coffee by sending a circular-note to the principal firms in Batavia, inform- ing them that he has so many thousands of piculs for sale and inviting proposals. These proposals are opened on a certain day, and the entire lot is disposed of to the highest bidder. While this is not exactly the same as the government method of market- ing the crops, it is the same in principle and accomplishes the same object—that of obtaining a free competition. The scenery upon the islands of Java and Sumatra is of the most diversified and beautiful character. Lofty mountains, rang- ing in height from four thousand to ten thousand feet and covered with luxuriant foliage, abound in both islands. Deep gorges, rushing streams, fertile valleys, fine plateaus, jungles and forests, lowlands and highlands, hills and volcanoes, lakes and rivers, all contribute to make these islands the most attractive spots in the world. Certainly one of the most delightful pictures lingering in my memory is that of the hill slopes of Preanger, near Buiten- zorg, with their thousands of shapely and luxuriant coffee trees in all stages of bearing, and in the background the high volcanic cone of Salac, towering far above the entire range. Another pleasant picture which lingers in memory is that of a Javan tea plantation in the Buitenzorg district. The residence is situated nearly in the centre of the large estate, upon high ground, surrounded with amass of tropical foliage. In front is a grove of banyan and other magnificent shade trees; in the rear, a grove of handsome cocoanut palms, while the garden, both in front and rear, is filled with an endless variety of gaudy flowers, and with nutmeg, clove, THE JAVA BERRY. 67 coffee, cocoa, plantain (banana), and many other fruit-bearing trees and shrubs. The house is built in the “bungalow” or one- storied style, common in tropical countries, the centre of it being occupied by a large square room or hall, which constitutes the chief sitting-room. While sitting there, enjoying a cup of tea, a peculiar cry uttered by the planter brought down a parrot of gorgeous hue from the top of one of the tall trees near the house, which perched upon his shoulder and proceeded to share his tea with him. The tinkling upon a teacup with a spoon was the signal for a flock of beautiful tame pigeons to come; these were rewarded with a little rice and sent away. Another signal filled the room with dogs of many sizes and kinds. In a short time we were again surprised at seeing a number of beautiful horses brought around to eat their rice from off the stone veranda. Upon enquiring the reason for this we found that it was because the attendants were in the habit of appropriating a part of the quantity allotted to the horses, and could not be trusted to give them the requisite supply of this article unless under the imme- diate eye of the owner. Here were the choicest breeds of English and Arab racing stocks, and upon expressing admiration for them I was shown the stables, where there were about thirty horses of all sorts and sizes, which are used only for racing and saddle purposes. Hunting is one of the amusements of a planter’s life—the tigers, leopard, rhinoceros, and wild boar being the principal kinds of game pursued in Java, deer also abounding. In a small en- closure in the rear of the house were various specimens of the last named beautiful animals, including one species, which, when full grown, was not over eight inches high, looking more like a deli- cate rabbit. with pipe-stem legs than like a deer. At a little dis- tance from the house was a small park, within which there was a herd of still another variety, larger in size than those in the small enclosure at the house, being fully as large as our American deer, but destitute of as fine horns, nor are they so pretty. One feature of plantation life in Java would jar upon the sensi- bilities of most persons educated in American ideas and in the prin- ciples which lie at the foundation of government in the United States, viz., the contempt. and want of consideration with which the natives are treated. As the natives approach the planter, 68 COFFEE. bearing some written message or report from the superintendents, they uncover their heads, and, bowing to the ground, they creep upon their hands and knees in order to hand the message to their “master.” While the movement added wonderfully to the oriental aspect of the scene, it did not dispel the thought that “oriental” has come to be entirely associated with the idea of despotism and cruelty, the day for which has gone by. The natives, however, are better than slaves in the following respects: they cannot be punished by whipping, and are free to come and go when they please. They are, however, miserably poor, ignorant, and degraded, and whether this is the effect of the climate, or not, is hard to determine. The old residents of the island represent that they do not seem to display much energy or to make much effort to elevate themselves. This is, doubtless, owing in a great measure to the fact that the Dutch government has adopted the plan of maintaining the authority of the native chiefs over them, the Dutch, in turn, subsidizing and controlling the chiefs, who, for hundreds of years, have maintained a most grinding despotism over their miserable subjects, levying forced loans and otherwise despoiling those who, by exceptional industry and pru- dence, have accumulated anything beyond their daily subsistence. The Dutch first conquered the island by force of arms, thereby establishing a claim to ownership of all the land, and then kept the native chiefs friendly by giving them a larger income than they formerly enjoyed, but requiring the chiefs in turn to make their people work systematically in cultivating the soil, and to sell their entire product to the Dutch government at a price so low that it barely gave them a subsistence. By this system the Dutch have derived an enormous revenue from their East India posses- sions, and in turn have given the natives greater security for life than they before enjoyed; but this has been the only improve- ment, the despotism of the native chiefs being perpetuated indef- initely, and most of the people kept so poor that there is but little chance for them to better their condition. As the population increased, a greater supply of labor became available than could be profitably employed under government supervision ; and as there was an abundance of land, portions of it were from time to time leased to individuals with the privilege of planting, until THE JAVA BERRY. 69 now there are a considerable number of private planters in Java, from whose enterprise the government derives a large revenue, not only in the sums received for leases but also for export and import duties on the articles produced and consumed by them. Dutch rule in the East has not been very beneficent to the gov- erned, but, on the other hand, it may probably be said with truth that the people of these countries are no worse off now than they were before, while Holland has been greatly benefited. The soil in the island of Java is rich, never seems to be ex- hausted, and when apparently used up on the surface, the planter has only to go deeper and secure a richer soil at once. For coffee- growing, plantations formed on forest clearings, one thousand five hundred to four thousand feet above sea-level, are the best; al- though the lowlands are also used for coffee culture, but the tree in that case is not as productive or as long-lived. Under the system of government monopoly, each family of natives is required to raise and take care of about six hundred and fifty trees, and to pick, dry, and deliver at the government stores the product thereof. The price received by the natives from the government is placed at a figure low enough to leave an enormous margin of profit to the government, which deducts from the gross price paid to the growers a duty of ten florins ($4) per picul. It may well be doubted, however, whether the plan of compulsory culture by natives, whose eagerness to be rid of the task induces them to hastily perform it, with great waste of pro- duct, and the exclusion of foreign capital and enterprise from the vast stretches of unimproved lands are calculated to develop the full resources of the country, and to compete successfully with the unfettered and scientific industry of the wealthy and ener- getic Anglo-Saxon cultivators. The first of the Java crop, as previously stated, was sold in Amsterdam, in 1712, by the Dutch East India Company, which monopoly, or its successors, has controlled the sale of the coffee- product of Java ever since. It exists to-day under the name of the Netherland Handel Maatschappy, with headquarters in Am- sterdam, and branches in all parts of the world, including New York, at which point an agency was established in January, 1879. In the fifteenth century the nations of Europe contended for 70 COFFEE. the trade of the East Indies. Prince John of Portugal led the way, and securing a foothold in India, monopolized the trade for nearly a century. Toward the close of the sixteenth century a war between Spain, which had annexed Portugal, and England forced the latter country to draw its Indian produce from the Dutch. Lisbon, at that time, was the chief port of entry for the rich merchandise of the Indies, but the revolt of the Netherlands closed Lisbon to the Dutch, and forced them to find a direct pas- sage to India. Between 1590 and 1600, as the result of that move, those twin monopolies known as the East India Companies of England and Holland were formed. On April 2, 1595, an Amsterdam corporation, known as a “Company for Remote Parts,” despatched four small vessels, via the Cape of Good Hope, to the East Indies. Other companies started at the same time, and finally, in 1602, the interests of the different organizations were merged into one association, char- tered by the States General, with the privilege granted of exclu- sive control of trade to the East Indies for twenty-one years, with the addition of all necessary civil and military power. Within twenty years the enormous amount of 30,000,000 guilders ($12,- 000,000) was divided among the stockholders, who originally paid in 6,500,000 guilders ($2,600,000) as capital. The company also had great possessions in land, vessels, and war material. In 1623 the charter was renewed for a second term of twenty-one years, and again in 1644, after which the company colonized the Cape of Good Hope, and gained control of Ceylon and Formosa, and other settlements of the Portuguese. In 1665 the payment of a heavy sum secured a new lease of power until 1700. From that date the monopoly occupied the chief centres of trade, and virtu- ally controlled the wealth of the Indies. A renewal of the char- ter was secured in 1735, 1741, and in 1776 for a period of thirty years. In 1781 pecuniary aid was required, as the resources of the company had been depleted by wars and expenses incident to maintaining its vast extent of territory and extended commerce. Upon the formation of the republic of Batavia, on September 15, 1795, the existence of the company ceased, and its affairs passed under government control. In 1824 King William I. established a new trading company, with a capital of over £3,000,000, the king THE JAVA BERRY. 71 guaranteeing an interest of four per cent. on the paid-up capital. In its early history the king was compelled to make good his guaran- tee, but after 1830 the affairs of the company prospered. Large quantities of merchandise, suited for the different markets of the world, are purchased at the various branches of the trading com- pany. The Kast Indian products are generally sold at the peri- odical sales held in Amsterdam, Rotterdam, ete. Some idea of the extent of these sales may be formed, when it is stated that the business of one year (1872) reached nearly $28,000,000, repre- senting the sum obtained for the coffee, sugar, tin, dyes, rattans, tobacco, cotton, nutmegs, cassia, camphor, fine woods, etc., sent from the East by the company’s agents. The present capital of the company is $14,400,000, with its affairs in a flourishing condi- tion, the American branch contributing largely to swell its income. The following record gives the quantity of Java coffee sold in the Netherlands by the East India Company from 1751 to 1794: Year. U. S. lbs. | Year. U. S. lbs, W711... s aldii hee aleeteigs Davsthss ATO a Secs after 127,212 VTi canciee saw sesh oeenek ces QA AT 28 oc crasavs access ce caebiedeiasa iets 13,208 T11S ..o ca cave cen cee wertee D988 LIS aces srseeecnaratonyeeereersisiena’s 79,808 VITA, sie weacianntoectnnsae wie 1218S) VT 2b ow acenemiinevawaweaiens 1,462,685 AND estehirdie wisiclens oe aieiestauwievele ex DTS DT 2b ccc. ccssctweuevecawes 2,786,930 ATG so seiaieiptnrerateguatavar ose dieinite tocar A AGE VG asec ncn ore Sibi BIS ORR ‘eee 4,729,912 VL wcevsaviwx eed awe wlardietetstets 10,066 }1727..... cece cece en eeee eee 4,578,464 VIS vivisisticeiinas ee tu caaseaateese DA AGE VT 28 os coats sisierare orgie ceveieinisvreiere 4,456,632 VLD ccsicae saeerasenseartvera eleanetersis tna 808181729) nasi uswiecsiorsespiovece 8,649,435 1720 eavsicrnts wderateiovavee aicied le «. 42,661 |1780...... ccc cece ees wees. 8,148,849 DUTT AW 20 coaisctantnawaiicevencerae 110,895 | 1721-1780.........46 eee. 25,082,635 Piculs (136 Ibs.)...... sieisis 815 Piculs (186-lbs.)....... 184,063 Year. U. 8. lbs, | Year. U. 8, lbs. TB Tce rata orenecosarstoca a oveteewiesers 8,220,909 | 1741...... 00. - eee avadesetee 1,554,567 PISO voc Canis or tae nsiieieeis 4,669,546 |1742......eceesnneeweeeees 1,470,827 D783: cceniwaaniaiazaescieasecere 1,779,644) 1748..........006 atenetarersivinis 4,739,173 VDE. cereale cca .... 3,758,819 |1744,.... ice eanaaes .. 4,779,039 L785 canescens ctotawowwess 4,874,210) 1745....... sie insbiate doerecavaace xs 8,266,358 LPOG aciceracuelate a wisisiaretoiceites 4,466,197 | 1746... .nscencnsrcreeees 8,310,766 VIS Ts aiwineewneritvcigaaianass 4,949,091 |1747......666 aiahenecensvarenoquerers 4,413,980 1738. ices Sasa etcays sacgp AD RAO TAS, sanis eceuinticanstanea ieee 2,484,288 1739... 0.0006 is icead araasetavarn's 8,998,422 | 1749... ccc ccs ewcees cence . 1,982,940 LVAD scans sasoiere ene aaa Rae 1,051,528 |1750........... siiana CO eae 1,999,907 1731-1740... cece ee ee eee 36,821,708 PVALSI750 cworecomesrcainen 29,951,845 Piculs (186 Ibs.)......-- 270,747 Piculs (186 Ibs.)....... 220,284 72 COFFEE. Year, U. S. Ibs. | Year, U. 8. Ibs, 1751....... dist eieectenis veeees 4,395,098 |1761........ seececcsceeess 4,840,588 LI52 oe nexecas wits wacunnd BOAO POOLING anosaeseeensaes weae 4,598,088 1768.66 06600 $i 4 es ewe - 8,082,883 |1763,....ccceccee secre sees 3,208,368 W154 ess ice's sese ae tase aree .. 8,430,505 |1764......... ie bein a's Sinnaisce 2,848,520 ) DOD dc Serenbe eet be an eeibias 8,881,885 | P65 iiss scsesrersasiare s 6 ae oe 806 4,163,849 WDC hii aG s ieeis ia Solas veneiels 8,259,731 |1766..........000 00 ee ei eee 4,220,492 WOT ecccns oa. s'eree ecg eoaeieres 3,093,340 | 1767. 0... ccc cece er cee n eee 3,087,621 WDB is. cies sare a's va 9 sie 4 bate ae 4,155,952 | 1768.0... ..0. cc cee eee enee - 1,947,124 1709) a ceaew.ss aoe 83:8 setae, “BOGCIE | A760 se ciaciiseatuaice'e scene 5,089,919 1760,......00000 cesarean ene £7G6056 [L770 sesasuineinceceey sciences 4,786,384 1751-1760........... epeee 35,002,216 | 1761-1770 12... cee eee eee 38,285,898 Piculs (136 Ibs.)....... 246,339 Piculs (136 Ibs.). ...... 281,514 Year, U. 8. Ibs. | Year. U. 8. Ibs. 1771..... saciessnsuets eiieieaieecias 6,045,615 |1781..... wnat eee es ons ais — PUD danke Ss ongnehesaass Geir « 5,418,821)1782....... cece eee eee eee — VOT scsssisinccce sj diarareve: b:0i0%s «ee. 789,743 /1788........ eaters iehareaciacse aero 2,891,680 VTA sicosiaretenin ai ee eae eeee. 6,236,243 |1784......... ddiaiatenle bw Sia 8,271,120 VOD salem crrewwiiw sone S580 6 6, '726428 | LI8G ss os ca asisrenwsweres's oo 9,486,921 AT TG nse ts colt vee an 6,015,932 /1786.....ccceecececceecees 8,577,440 Led aysrace gcieiteiedsth | 61 0@62 6/51 0@520 Fair average.......... ccs eeceeee 60 0 61 0148 0 49 OF (59 6 @ 60 6/50 0 @51 0 “Washed Brazil—Good to fine....... — — (84 0 @ 86 0/670 @100 Medium colory..... | — — . | 09 80 061 0@63 0 Grayish ......... pss aia : —— /|4 /700@7B 0/570@600 Bahia—Ordinary mixed ( 46 0 @ 47 0/36 0 @ 87 0 a J 470 g 49 0/34 0 @ 360 Fair ditto............. -|43 0 @ 49 0/40 0 @ 410 4 500 @51 0/41 0@ 48 0 Good greenish....... -/53 0 @ 55 0/42 0 @ 440) S | 55 0 @59 0/46 0 @ 480 Ceylon—Plantation low m i) — —_ 89 0 @ 89 6/79 0@ 81 0 Good ordinary........... — —. 63 0 @ 64 0/55 0 @57 0 Holland—Java, yeee ordin’y. cents. 391g 36 — _—_— New York—good cargoes... .cents. 154% 121¢ —— —— Hamburg—real ordinary. .... pfeng. 62 47 —_— aaa THE COFFEE TRADE. 197 The consumption has, however, very naturally increased under the stimulus of low prices. The average monthly consumption for the first four months of the years 1879, 1880, and 1881, was 13,805 tons for the Atlantic coast, against an average per month for the first four months of 1881, of 15,217 tons, an increase over the corresponding time in 1880 of 2,821 tons. At London an increase was reported of 844 tons for the first four months of 1881 over the same time 1880. Still it is apparent that the supply of coffee is increasing in a faster ratio than consumption, and this is not likely to be disturbed for some years unless some great calam- ity overtakes the crop, while if a disaster should come to some one of the great consuming countries similar to the war that occurred in this country from 1861 to 1865, prices would reach an unusu- ally low level. We here present the range of prices for the year 1880, as taken from the report of the Chamber of Commerce, which shows at a glance the: great decline that occurred between January and December. The average prices for the month and for the year were per 100 pounds. Brazil—Fair to Prime Cargoes. Average for the month. 1880, ist, 10th, 20th. * 1880. 1879. 1878. January ........ 154 @ 163] 153 @ 17 | 154 @ 164] $16.168 | $15.42 | $17.87 February .....-. 148 @ 158/142 @ 152] 154 @ 164) 15.50 14.794 | 17.08 March.......... 154 @ 164,15 @ 164) 14% @ 152) 15.624 | 14.163] 16.54 April ........... 142 @ 16 | 144 @ 152/14 @15 | 15.00 14.202} 16.37 May....--20. ...| 14% @ 152] 144 @ 154) 144 @ 154] 15.084 | 18.584] 17.00 JUNE. 6 008 sewaw’ 144 @ 154) 144 @ 154) 14% @ 152} 15.04 18.75 16.20 July.......e.eee 15 @16|15 @16 | 142 @ 153) 15.50 14.00 | 16.12 August ......... 15 @16 | 154 @ 164/152 @ 16%] 15.83 14.04 | 16.70 September....../152 @17 |16 @17 |15 @16d) 16.163] 14.70 | 17.16 October... .| 144 @ 16 | 184 @ 144! 132 @ 13%) 14.46 16.38 16.50 November ......| 13% @ 15 | 184 @ 144/134 @ 144| 13.96 16.91 15.54 December....... 18 @14 |112 @18 |18 @14] 18.12 16.373) 15.04 Average for the year..........00.cceeeseeee $15.12 | $14,854 | $16.51 198 COFFEE. Java—( Padang.) Average for the month. 1880. Ist. 10th. 20th, 1880. 1879. 1878, January.......-. 232 @ 22 | 232 @ 24 | 232 @ 2H | $28.874 | $23.25 | $22.16 February........ 232 @ 22 | 232 @ 24 |23 @24| 23.75 | 24.25 | 21.50 March,........- 23 @ 22/23 @ 24/23 @24| 23.50 | 28.913] 21.16 April............ 22 @ 22/22 @ 23/22 @2z| 22.50 | 24.25 | 21.00 May.........-.. 22 @ 22/21 @ 2/20 @ 22| 21.663 | 24.25 | 21.25 FUNG. 4b acee ene 20 @ 22 |20 @ 22 |194 @ 21 | 20.75 | 24.25 | 21.66 A 194 @ 22 | 193 @ 21 121 @ 22] 20.66% | 24.25 | 22.50 August.......... 21 @ 22/21 @23 }21 @23| 21.884! 24.00 | 24.00 September,..... 21 @ 22/21 @ 23/21 @23| 22.00 | 23.58 | 24.37 October......... 21 @ 22 |21 @ 23 |29 @23| 21.663] 24.50 | 23.58 November......./20 @ 22 |20 @22 |28 @20| 20.833] 24.79 | 23.37 December....... 18 @22|18 @20 {26 @i8| 18.333] 24.373 | 23.25 Average for the year...........ceceeeeee eee $22.6275| $24.14 | $22.48 Maracwibo and Laguayra. Average for the month. 1880. Ast, 10th. 20th. 1880. 1879, 1878, January........./ 184 @ 164/14 @ 164) 144 @ 17 | 15.333 | $15.17 | $17.25 February........ 144 @ 17 |144 @17|15 @18} 16.04 15.58} | 16.33 March.......... 15 @ 183}15 @18}15 @ 184) 16.623) 14.663] 15.75 April -{15 @ 184/15 @ 184,15 @ 184} 16.624] 14.00 15.50 May............ 14 @17 |14 @17/f4 @17] 15.60 | 14.00 | 15.38 June... se... eee 14 @17 | 122 @ 16 | 122 @16 | 14.75 13.91 | 15.50 DUE se wesegs hoes 134 @ 164) 134 @ 163,14 @ 164] 14.958} 18.75 15.33 August.......... 14 @17 |14 @17 | 144 @ 172] 15.624] 13.75 14.91 September...... 144 @ 174) 144 @ 172) 144 @ 174] 15 87h] 18.75 15.25 October......... 18 @17 |14 @17 | 184 @15 | 15.04 15.08 15.50 November.......|184 @ 15 |134 @ 15 |18 @ 144] 14.00 16.58 14.75 December....... 124 @ 134) 112 @ 18 |112 @ 18 | 12.458] 16.21 14.83 Average for the year......... ih ex avevatwicac es $15.5235) $14.70 | $15.52 * THE COFFEE TRADE. 199 The consumption of the country, according to Moring’s tables, was 10,847 tons below that of 1879, but 28,277 tons above the average for the ten years 1871-80, and 5,294 tons above the ave- rage for the three years 1878-80, thus showing that the demand was comparatively steady. The deliveries of Rio and Santos coffee in the United States from January 1st to December 31st, during the years 1878, 1879, 1880 and 1881 to August Ist, were as follows : Deliveries of Rio and Santos Coffee in the United States from January 1st to December 31st. 1881. 1880. 1879. 1878, Bags. Bags. Bags. Bags. January .......e. cece ee es 195,879 201,901 172,119 146,818 February .......-...0.00 181,664 198,157 199,557 166,516 Mareh os sus seein neeese4 230,565 176,193 205,629 164,404 April cise s 3 wicescnceane oeee 161,859 167,292 202,186 122,513 MY. 55 gra t's hniemecciea oaasce 189,665 110,316 156,242 182,347 DUNG cies Fa aguaaecaietee Se; 206,227 142,178 157,441 115,504 DUYi is 6-5 crinsancenien vers 187,582 160,287 185,981 187,389 August .......cc cc cee ewes 189,675 177,757 149,124 September ..............- —- 135,495 226,053 136,604 October. sicccieseevs sc aes _—_ 248,773 236,989 188,883 November .............4. — 233,046 166,836 186,217 December ...........2... —_—— 240,420 158,212 211,838 Total wsccse-ciswiets veins 1,308,421 | 2,203,733 2,243,002 1,908,157 The consumption on the Pacific Coast was about 6,100 tons, against 4,400 tons in 1879, and 5,400 tons in 1878. The receipts on that coast in 1880 from Central America reached 187,568 bags, or 18,789,973 pounds, against 11,891,445 pounds in 1879, and 13,918,223 pounds in 1878. The California dealers report an increasing demand from. States east of the Mississippi, which gain is largely due to an increase of population, to improved means of transportation, and to the good quality of the coffee received from Salvador and Guatemala, and these factors are likely to give the California market greater prominence than it has hitherto enjoyed. The following statement shows in detail the import into San Francisco : 200 COFFEE. Imports FOR YEARS 1880. 1879. 1878. . 1877. Pounds. Pounds, Pounds. Pounds. i wate 524,270 1,389,249 141,702 221,170 eran 77,338 40,212 114,282 141;265 Costa Rica ........ 5,059,748 3,102,611 4,111,914 4,328,171 Guatemala........ 8,171,510 5,731,108 6,717,319 6,766,450 Salvador .......... 4,683,282 2,923,782 3,046,574 3,330,980 Nicaragua.......++ 1,039,286 150,999 42,416 95,139 Mexico ........-06 72,140 24.427 20,856 79,257 DAWA 6 pcan a5 018 raceees 583,693 268,033 1,058,641 445,400 Tahitian .......... 2,691 47,626 . —~ Manila ........-.. 175,417 201,776 264,779 603,074 Singapore........ 95,887 2,247 3,213 296,800 Hongkong......... — 7,392 —. Ceylon. .......+45 504,000 —- — 51,121 CBI e ave sveacersiesre eis 10,484 ae —- Panama.........6. 5,695 —- — | Guayaquil......... 9,882 — —. —== Amapala.......... 10,288 — — —— Unspecified ....... 91,519 —- — —_ Total........... 21,123,366 18,889,462 15,621,698 16,358,827 These figures differ slightly from those contained in other statements, and we therefore present another table, showing the total receipts, stock, exports, and consumption for five years, 1876 to 1880: 1880, 1879, 1878, 187. 1876, Pounds, Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. Pounds. Total vorassseasbi sais sieiieauineys’ 20,444,951 | 12,229,659 | 15,398,252 | 16,179,220 | 10,455,728 Stock January Ist..............4- 1,229,200 2,084,504 1,802,115 500,000 1,594,200 Total supply......-.cceceeeeeeees 21,674,181 | 14,264,163 %,200,367 | 16,679,220 | 12,049,928 Deduct exports and shipments ONETIANG sa cid accisinse siete aiale wienis' ons 4,447,230 3,171,780 2,969,310 3,673,840 485,046 17,226,951 | 11,092,883 | 14,231,057 | 13,005.380 | 11,564,882 Deduct stock December 31st ..... 3,532,266 1,229,200 2,034,504 1,802,115 1,2u0,000 Consumption ...............eeeee 18,694,685 9,863,183 | 12,196,553 | 11,208,265 } 10,364,882 The consumption on the west coast is likely to increase rapidly, as the Western territories are filling up with immigrants, and the facilities for distributing merchandise are extending every year. Now that the Southern Pacific Road is open, New Orleans may prove a formidable competitor for the trade of the South- West and the Pacific Coast. The average price of Guatemala THE COFFEE TRADE, 201 coffee in San Francisco for eleven years, as compared with the yearly average price for fair to prime Brazil cargoes in New York, was as follows: | Yearly average Yearly average Average price . i Average price ice for fai Year, | Guatemala | Footie Bra-|| Year. Guatemala | fo prime Bra- Ato Toe, | cose 10h ins, P| i cnoes in TWSTO eos sae we $19.124 $16.33 UST6 066 seen $20.52 $17.97 WSs ncaa 17.31 15.91 TOUT oc scaxsars 19.88} 19.72 TOT Di asvaceveias ena 18.884 18.42 TSTB: . eeccaa tits 17.414 16.51 ISIS). ies ace iase 19.83 19.99 1879 ......... 16.71 14,854 TST4 cs cena: s 22.654 21.08 1880 ......... 15.18 15.124 TSTG os asters 20.34 19.01 In examining the following table, showing the highest and lowest price of fair to prime Rio coffee in New York from 1849 to 1880, it will be noted that since 1850 there has been a steady appreciation in price, and that the market has always been sub- ject to wide fluctuations. The average yearly price of fair to prime Rio coffee in New York for thirty years, as reported to the New York Chamber of Commerce, was as below: Year. Per 100 lbs. Year. Per 100 lbs. Year. Per 100 lbs. $14.01 BOUL cccratuoss $15.91 23.01 1872 wasewewws 18.42 81.18 1898 sconces 19.99 42,49 1874 . 21.08 20.65 1875 2... 19.01 18.66 1876 ......00. 17.97 17.24 TST ca sateriess 19.72 15.73 16.51 15.82 14.854 16.33 15.12 From 1861 to June, 1865, quotations are in currency ; after the latter date in gold. Coffee was taken from the free list August 6, 1861, and a duty imposed of 4 cents per pound; increased December 25, 1861, to 5 cents per pound ;- reduced January 1, 1871, from 5 to 3 cents per pound, and abolished July 1, 1872. The following table exhibits the lowest and highest price of Padang Java yearly from 1858 to 1880, and the average price 202 COFFEE. for each year. Prior to 1865 quotations are in currency, from that date in gold; the Appendix furnishes a table showing the fluctuations in gold during the existence of a premium on the same : Year. Lowest. |Highest. psa for Year. Lowest. |Highest. eS for Cents. | Cents. Cents. Cents, | Cents. Cents, 1858 ......... 184 | 20 16.13 1870 ........ 19 é 21.19 1859 ..... w.e-| 182 | 16 14.79 TB7T ye sis oes 17} | 264 21.29 1860 ......... 142 | 18} 16.51 VST 2 essere se 184 | 25 21.30 A8GL.. ceecac 2 154 | 25 18.38 1873 ase cutee 19 34 23.63 1862......... 244 | 385 27.50 ISt4 cca sess 22 35 26.68 1863 ......... 33 41 37.04 1S7B isis exo os 24 =|, 30 26.71 1864 ......... 40 60 49.10 1876 ........ 18 26 21.57 1865 ......... 24 51 25.82 VB UT sainvers done 22 254 23.82 1866 ......... 24 284 26.08 1878 ........ 204 | 25 22.48 USOT ees se wees 24 27 24.75 LON ica ar 284 | 24% 24.14 1868 ....0.605 21 27 23.41 1880 ........ 18 24 22.62 1869 ......... 21 25 23.02 Is the present valuation of coffeé to be maintained, or are we to look forward again to an era of low prices ? To this interesting question very different answers are returned. Some predict that the range of low prices of former years has passed away forever, while others will only see in the rise of coffee since 1871 a gigantic manipulation of the staple. The ad- vocates of the first-mentioned theory argue that in past years the consumption of coffee has increased in a greater ratio than the productive area under cultivation; that in the most important coffee-producing country—Brazil—the supply of labor has become insufficient ; and that, besides, the Brazilian planters, enriched by their profits, can now afford to hold off from an unfavorabie market and command their own terms. It is retorted from the opposite camp that general production has already received a powerful development from the high prices of the last five or six years—a development visible in the increased yield of the West Indies, and of Central and South America; and that with regard to Brazil, the newly-acquired wealth of the planting class must necessarily tend to counteract the scarcity of labor by facilitating the introduction of improved machinery in its stead. If it was profitable, they say, to raise coffee years ago, when it could be THE COFFEE TRADE. ~ 203 laid down here at 8 to 12 cents per pound, what must it be now at 12 to 16 cents per pound ? In view of these conflicting opinions, it is well to keep in mind some peculiarities of coffee-culture and of the staple itself, which may sometimes mislead calculation or temporarily suspend logical results. It takes, as we have seen, from three to four years for new coffee plantations to come into bearing; hence the necessity for a considerable outlay of capital to open a plantation; hence, also, ample working room for speculative operations to move in, before the field can possibly respond to the market. And specu- lation finds still further assistance in the nature of the article, which, not deteriorating, but improving with age, constitutes an excellent security on which to borrow money.* There is, therefore, no doubt that a “ring,” backed by sufficient capital, could for a long time keep up an artificial situation ; and, in the present instance, it cannot be denied that the siuharsacine economical problems resulting from the want of hands in the coffee-producing countries of the western world, the unprogressive condition of Java’s in- dustry for many years, leaf-disease in Ceylon, and the increasing aggregate consumption indicate a plausible foundation for at least a temporary advance. But, on the other hand, it must not be forgotten that the area for coffee culture in the world is practically unlimited, and that new centres of immense production have already sprung up in regions overflowing with cheap labor, while in spite of the supposed disadvantages of the Brazilian planter the average yearly export from Rio de Janeiro for the seven years from 1874 to 1880 reached 229,149 tons, an unprecedented figure. I now pause to consider the consumptive requirements of the world, my figures, as far as possible, being based on actual returns in the United States, England, France, and Germany, while for other countries I have availed myself of the latest accessible statistical tables, using quite freely as a basis those collated by Dr. Van Den Berg (Historical and Statistical Notes, Java, 1880). * Tt is true that the lessons of 1880, and the downfall of the leading spirits in the great coffee syndicate are likely to render such operations less liable to in- fluence the market in future. If, however, serious disaster should reduce the Brazil crop in as great a proportion as the 1880-81 Java crop has been cut down, the fact alone would generate new speculative ventures. CHAPTER XXIV. COFFEE-CONSUMPTION OF THE WORLD. Tue United States consumes nearly one-third of the exports of coffee from all producing countries, having absorbed from a total production of about 525,000 tons, an average of 156,482 tons per annum for the last five years, of which about seventy-three per cent. was the product of Brazil. There seems to be a steady increase in the quantity taken, it having risen from an average of 79,848 tons annually from 1857 to 1861, to 156,482 tons annually from 1876 to 1880. The tables of H. E. Moring & Co. make the consumption on the Atlantic coast for 1880, 168,678 tons, and the average for the five years from 1876 to 1881, 151,900 tons. The Pacific coast consumption averaged for the same period 5,080 tons, making a total for the United States of 156,980 tons, or 498 tons more than the net imports as reported by the United States Bureau of Statistics. One notable feature is the disposition among consumers in favor of mild coffee; and with the opening of direct railway communication with our sister republic of Mexico, a greater disparity than now exists between the imports of coffee from Brazil and those from other countries may be anticipated. In order to study correctly the progress of coffee consumption in the United States, it will be necessary to examine the subject somewhat in detail. We first present the quantities and values of tea and coffee imported into and exported from the United States, together with the net imports and the estimated imports per capita of popula- tion, from 1859 to 1880 inclusive. The net imports represent the approximate consumption, those of tea being placed in comparison with coffee in order to show the relative consumption of two articles the active principle of which is identical in each. It is COFFEE-CONSUMPTION OF THE WORLD 205 estimated that one pound of tea will go as far in supplying a family, as four pounds of coffee. When tea and coffee were subject to duty, the imports for consumption, 2.¢., the imports on which duties were paid each year, represented approximately the actual consumption of these articles ; but, since the duty has been removed, all imports of tea and coffee are entered for immediate consumption on their arrival from a foreign country, and go immediately into the hands of the importer, the entry for consumption being merely a technical name of the means by which the goods are delivered directly from the custody of the government to that of the importer. Of the tea and coffee entered for consumption on arrival a considerable amount is afterward exported. All the exports shown in the table are of foreign tea and coffee previously imported, and, therefore, the imports less the exports (or the net imports) form the nearest approximation which can be given to the consumption of these articles in the United States. It is interesting to note, in studying the table upon the next page, the fluctuations in the per capita consumption of tea and coffee. Thus we find that the minimum distribution of tea and coffee was in 1863-65, that of tea falling to one-half pound per capita, or just one-third of the quantity used in 1881. We also find that the quantity of coffee used per head was about the same in 1881 as in 1859. Thus, it would appear that it took from the year 1863, when the consumption was only 2.2 pounds per head, until 1880, for the country to reach the same ratio of distribution as existed prior to the war. From 1873 to 1879 all the business industries of the country were depressed, labor was largely unem- ployed and immigration light, and very naturally a heavy reduc- tion in the use of tea and coffee was anticipated. The decline, however, was small, that of tea varying from one-quarter to one-half pound per capita, and coffee fluctuating between 6.2 pounds and 7.3 pounds, a fact the more remark- able, as wages were low and the financial condition of the country poor. COFFEE. 206 “ORST PUE “OLST ‘OORT ‘sree4 snsta0 ueTy JeTI0 sree IOJ poyeUITyse st UOTYe[ndod ey T.— ALON PS eee" 2) 4, | bey ‘ é | “i 4 | lpr re n> un er | a (er ca rts le a es Gk |19V-WO'g |1e9'asn eye [S99 TT's 9F8‘260'QL |613" 998'Lb GLY'ShS' DLE ges‘ ; arttataneoatin &'9 |686'SeS'Gh |PIT'T90.46e /998°9RD'S |9eh‘Tes ST |S09'F16 "1S {0FS'898 808 Fi oer Ue Seabee 6'9 |ee6'290'29 |800\6r2' Tes [890'299'T IGTL'068°6 [Té6‘Ps9‘s9 |eeL'6E9‘TEE “T | toe" ea rs ene aed arate °L |S90°BOT'S9 |68L'P06 ‘UES [36 '99"T |29P ‘rES's 26688199 |9PS'6SL'6EE | He" re Greet ak ck cea) es Th, |PSE‘LIS'6P |TS9‘UST TTS |PSE‘038'T |PLO PES'9 [Sh 169°09 ‘299 OG LIS rT eee ik aerate Paevapr (queers : ‘pass : T | S19'696'18 Fos‘ T6e's9 s02'EL9" : 99 [LOT Shs‘b9 |918'Gss'Tss O98's0L, |DED'ass"e [L468 '8h0' Sg ler" TLEGR@ | 92° |8 ee ee 69 |869'996 ‘eb |PPS‘9FP'98e |910°SFI'T |220;TS8"s TL9°60L'PP |T28L60°E63 | EST eo ee Peete ee 9 | y 4 ‘ 669° TLO"FS |OPG6 FS ‘g9P° £2 [TS9‘gea'1e |bSh‘see'ans |PL9'80b [eUb‘LOP's Sea'VhG'LE lgpe‘aos'se | Or-T |291°F89'T2 Se tee 6'L [608'FGP ‘DE |920°9E, SLE [099'86h |STO'LIG'S 698°SG6'0E |RFOKE LTE | 98° |d orn Gotnere EEG eee 0°9 |eh0'bas'es |PAG'ELE'Tes |9c8‘0TF, |000°S80'F |6L8‘FEs'Ps |PLG'9Se'CES | OL” Bee Oia Leet Ceara : Lg Ed ‘880° LT | ATG ‘GSP ‘ST |TLP ‘OFS ‘3h 1B €98°EL |TSP'80P G9 [BIS TIS‘ee |gu9'Sue‘ehs |Tse.0e0'T |S6S'SULT |EFLTEs'bs 1866 °09T'F98 | 80°T bbe eect 9°9 lorn‘app'rs [z6'2e0 TS |GOL°SFS JO86°00G'2 | TSP’s8a'S% 006'EN6' ‘BF | 26" Perea netaevae ca ee een So eters ae : 36 006% iP '888' 26'0 | 608°668'0T ese.ses ee OOGTIT TE (S19‘EF8'28 04 Tes eeer aoroccaet estos, Goeeio's nusctesOs eor-eer"st | Etct lecunaot |aprerte tr Hasty sas "8 |gg9‘cza‘¢ |apo‘ors'rs |E90°9TL'S |LIO LPT 2s SOL:TRS LT |e90‘E9h 90T | GF" £86 ‘EF0" ete B'S |9CEOGE'ST /9BF'PPS‘AST |NVS' TLE |96GisL4's |ySG‘Tca‘OT |esL ot eres. eenmeee oes i “pps! TH § ¢ ‘B@Y‘TEL | FO'T |FRG'LL6'6 (Bod, TS8'S8 ‘Gee B'% |s6e'rTe'6 |s9L‘Sus'hL [e9p‘T80\T |9ps‘ea9'9 logs ‘O66 OF P19‘ T9P*0S , ‘TS6‘ 2e0" 19868 P'S |SVL‘OIS‘SI |SL9'ETO'STL |0L0‘%8E'T £89°9S1,'6 S6L'e6 LPT irTe" 66, oe) ee oe 1) ee re (toes ‘s10" ‘ BSE | Th'O |SSL:906'9 |LbL‘9ee'es T@P‘S98'FS BE USGL RO te Get Rs Sas Oe avers Gaeta rea Gears aie Ula . 61S 9% ae 4 My . 4 6 . cf ‘ fF « < ig 3 3 i$ ey 1171098 a selec SP6 ae _ T gsa'ar9 A '620°N80°9S \PENEP'PYS | 9L°0 |S4L‘LVE' |6SeEILS \G9S'T9P‘S |SOP‘GFT'D |TPL ‘see'h, 121 '998'68 coemeeage mod sqT | “sxe[lod ‘sq ‘sq | ‘stelod | “sat ‘savpjod | “sq | “Bze[100 “sq’'T gy gs we EF) suod | £9 Ee ‘S}IOMWM] YON “sqtodxq “pyaodmy eS “syiodm] JON *sqyiodxq “*sqaodmy gs a ; “10g euNL 2, 5 ° pepue avaxX “aAgaI0N ‘VaL ‘auisnjour “TBs 02 BGgT Ulouf ‘uoynndog fo ondng sed s1oduy poqnuys we ; UST 94) PUD "SAR0IS PERU) ay? ‘opur squodwuy yaar puw ‘woul powduy puv opm popwoduy eaffog pun vay, fo sonjog pup sayyuon?y COFFEE-CONSUMPTION OF THE WORLD. 207 As far back as 1856-57 the consumption per capita was larger than the average for the past five years, which, according to Mor- ing’s tables, was 7.09 pounds per head. The last-named authority places the consumption at the figures given below: Year. Population. Tons. Per Capita, ISTE! oi, sissienisces ceca giatonciat ashe ; 46,000,000 134,109 6.53 TBUY esienis asogars oi Hest dl 47,000,000 135,238 6.45 1878 ..... ah ceaia ete Bag Severn 48,000,000 141,949 6.62 1879 s cccsncateecss < ois re 49,000,000 179,525 8.21 1880... ... cs eee secassteeees 50,000,000 168,678 7,56 Average 5 years...... : 48,000,000 151,900 7.09 The quantities of tea and coffee taken for consumption prior to 1859 were as follows : TEA CorFrEE. as ss. Year ended— 3 sg § 3 gs Retained for Home Con- gS "@ || Retained for Home Con- ze a8 sumption, 63 sumption, add BBS ag 6 8 AM & Ae September 30— Pounds, Dollars. | Pounds. Pounds. Dollars. | Pounds, 6,873,091 | 1,532,211 | 0.53 88,363,687 | 3,180,479] 3.0 -| 16,883,099 | 4,067,144 | 0.99 86,297,761 | 7,615,824 5.05 28,199,591 | 3,982,054 | 1.22 || 129,791,466 | 9,918,472] 5.55 +++) 13,504,774 | 3,452.496 | 0.57 || 148,992,505 | 12,489,671] 6.2 -| 25,587,668 | 5,927,143 | 1.03 || 180,712,687 | 13,372,124) 7.8 --| 19,291,884 | 7,024,526 | 0.75 || 185,999,248 | 14,380,383 | 7.3 --| 19,236,113 | 4,933.553 | 0.73 || 150,246,403 | 13,377,972 | 5.7 -| 19,763,593 | 4,937,610 | 0.72 || 175,150,440 | 15,486,423] 6.4 -+| 18,181,470 | 5,250,603 | 0.64 || 223,638,479 | 20,321,142] 7.9 -| 16,500,285 | 4.844.963 | 0.57 || 216,655,977 | 19,809,854 | 7.5 28,766,577 | 5,877,387 | 0.97 || 174,497,161 | 16,779,870] 5.9 The Annual Reports of the New York Chamber of Commerce make the consumption of the Atlantic coast, and ports on the Gulf of Mexico, for the five years 1876 to 1880, inclusive, as fol- lows: COFFEE. 208 Consumption of the Ports. 1880, 1879. 1878. 1877, 1876. Tons, Tons. Tons, Tons. Tons, Taken from New York........... 122,698 | 127,386 | 94,695) 86,455] 83,953 sf New Orleans ........ 15,291] 12,996} 11,014) 12,326] 10,750 : Baltimore.......... 26,287 | 30,681! 28,899} 28,099! 31,105 a Philadelphia......... 176 704} 1,172) 1,965 798 a Boston... ..0..0..00+ 429 478 345 279 244 “ Other ports.......... 4,535] 7,046] 6,247] 6,782} 8,208 Total ioc sesaeaevanlen ns 169,416 | 179,241 | 142,372 | 185,906 | 135,058 The above statement shows an average annual consumption for the past five years of 151,808 tons on the Atlantic coast, which, added to the figures for the Pacific coast, makes a total consump- tion in the United States of 156,888 tons, as against 156,980 tons, as given in H. E. Moring & Co.’s tables, and 156,482 tons, accord- ing to the Government returns. The same authority reports the deliveries at New York (in- cluding coastwise receipts), from 1851 to 1880, inclusive, as follows: Deliveries at New York (including Coastwise [eceipts) for the past Thirty Years. Year Tons. Year. Tons. Year. Tons. 1851. acces 80,276 ||1861........ 46,389 ASTH coc ca aes 70,532 1852........ 32,833 1862........ 80,073 |/1872........ 69,713 1853 ........ 25,804 |11868........ 28,842 111878....,... 68,863 1854........ 29,842 |/1864........ 88,346 1874........ 82,801 1855... 33,446 |/1865........ 48,754 |/1875........ 77,185 1856........ 36,903 ||1866........ 51,122 1876........ 84,087 1857........ 27,184 |/1867........ 69,078 |/1877........ 86,621 1858. ....... 43,819 1868........ 67,105 1878........ 94,741 1859..... «.-| 87,866 |/1869........ 67,289 ISTO see eee ss 127,677 1860........ 29,859 + |/1870........ 68,735 1880........ 122,995 Average per year, 1851-1860................0. 32,683 tons. Average per year, 1861-1870. .............0 eee 50,568 °° Average per year, 1871-1830...............0 88,5164 “ Average per year, 1876-1880...............0.. 103,224 ** A study of the preceding tables, especially in reference to the COFFEE-CONSUMPTION OF THE WORLD. 209 per capita consumption, bears out the rule that the extent to which an article of diet, like coffee, is used depends largely upon its cheapness. It may also be safe to assume that the shrinking and retrenchment process that occurred in our community between the years 1873 and 1879 tended to diminish consumption. Our laboring population was forced to economize and renounce some of its comforts, and, had it not been for the long period of depres- sion that made itself felt with severity from 1876 to 1879, the growth in consumption would probably have been very much larger than is shown by the record. During the first four months of 1881, coffee declined two to six cents per pound, and the consumption for that period shows a gain over the same time in 1880 of 11,284 tons, this fact bearing out the above statement. A period of high prices, it is evident, carries within itself a double influence (increased production and decreased consump- tion) which must limit its extent; and this must hold, true so long as the productive capacity of the globe, with regard to coffee, is not reached. On the whole, to one glancing collectively over the compli- cated pros and cons of the question, the outlook (whatever may have been the statistical position in the recent past) seems to point to no inadequacy of the general production, while, at the same time, altered circumstances may prevent in our main country of supply a return to rates existing under a different system of labor and a different distribution of wealth. It will be interesting to follow, in the next few years, the phases of a problem which affects almost every breakfast-table in the Jand.. A glance at the consuming power of Europe will en- able us to better understand the relation of the world’s supply of coffee to its demand. The total distribution of coffee in Europe, taking the figures for the past three years, will average 383,521 tons annually. In detail the position of coffee in the leading depots of Europe on December 31st, for the last three years, was reported by Messrs James Cook & Co., of London, as follows : 14 210 COFFEE. Imports, Stocks, December 31st. 1880. 1879. 1878, 1880. 1879. 1878. Tons, Tons, Tons, Tons, Tons. Tons ' Holland ..........06- 81,210 | 67,790] 67,630 || 29,340] 22,620; 24,160 ANtWEID ...ceceeees "| 45,500| 44,740) 36,070|] 8,700] 3,300] 4,200 Hamburg........00+ 87,750 | 84,100] 79,750 || 13,000| 7,500} 11,000 France .....0+ e200 86,000 | 100,287 | 87,416 || 42,000] 37,420| 34,321 Bremen ....-.0.-ee08 6,100 7,340 7,500 470 70 150 Trieste. .........00e .| 11,200} 12,810; 13,260 3,550 4,300 1,840 Genoa..... dieerole afetny ee 7,040 8,490 6,630 1,520 1,730| 1,420 On Continent ....... . | 324,800 | 825,557 | 298,256 || 98,580 | 76,940| 77,091 Great Britain ........ 77,797 | 80,870 | 68,670 || 19,497) 15,285] 15,405 Total .........6. 402,597 | 406,427 | 361,926 | 118,077 | 92,225 | 92,496 The supply and distribution of three years was as follows : 1880. 1879, we. ae Tons, Tons, Tons, Tons. Total stock January Ist ...... 93,131 86,960 102,321 94,187 a imports to Dec. 3ist....| 402,597 406,427 861,926 390,317 ‘* supply for 12 months...| 495,728 493,387 464,247 484,454 Deduct stock, Dec. 31st ...... 118,077 92,225 92,496 100,933 Distribution in 12 months.....| 877,651 401,162 871,751 383,521 The distribution in 1877 amounted to 340,053 tons; in 1876, to 378,958 tons, the average per year, for the five years 1876 to 1880, being 373,915 tons. The kinds of coffee most in favor for consumption in England are East India, Plantation Ceylon, and Jamaica. Of Brazil, the consumption is small. In Great Britain there is a duty of. 14d. per pound on raw, and 2d. per pound on roasted coffee. A brief mention of trade customs in England will be of in- terest in view of the intimate business relations between the United States and the United Kingdom. The terms of public sale (for in Great Britain coffee is sold almost entirely at auction) are one month’s credit, with discount at the rate of five per cent. per annum allowed to the buyer if settlement is made before the month expires. A discount of one per cent. is allowed on all coffee, except Brazil, Guatemala, New Grenada, Laguayra, and COFFEE-CONSUMPTION OF THE WORLD. 211 Honduras, which carry two and a half per cent. All sorts of coffee are sold in the London market, except French West India and Celebes. Hayti and Padang Java are seldom offered. The bulk of the supply offered at the public sale comes from the East and West Indies, Ceylon, and Central America. Car- goes are purchased for any continental port, generally Hamburg, Antwerp, Havre, Trieste, or Marseilles, and occasionally for Bre- men, Copenhagen, or Stockholm. The cargoes thus sold are nearly all Brazil coffee, though in some few instances they in- clude shipments from Porto Rico, and still more rarely from Manila. The following market report illustrates the manner of doing business in the London market, and illustrates the relative prices, per cwt., of the various kinds: . Auction—April, 1881. Derlen 460 casks, 940 barrels and bags: . | Mocha—270 packages—part sold : IMAL: savas overs satis aele ones recess 63s 0d 708 0d short berry (mixed)........ 98s 0d —_— low middling to middling... 81s 0d 8ts 0d | Jamaica—1,(90 packages—smail part sold : good middling to good bold 88s 0d 98s Ud old palish (mixed)......... 463 0d 47s Od good to fine bold........... 101s 0d 1103 0d | Santos—1,586 bage—part sold: peaberry ... 0 .......sseeeee 100s 0d 10%s tid fair to good greenish....... Bis Od 53s 0d East India—5,680 cases and bags: washed mottled pale..... . 623 Od —_ MHysore, medium to bold..... oe Od 125s 6d | African—80 bags: emall.........- is 0d 95s 6a fair reddish..............-+ 473 0d Coorg, ete., gray. 3 * tee Qd 8s 0d | Rio—840 bags—withdrawn. medium ...... ...- 783 Od 858 Od | Washed Rio—690 bags— good to bold..........senee 90s 0d 107s 0d without reserve..........+5 5% 0d 68s 0d Peaberry ........00. cee eeee 98s Ud 10ts 0d | Central American... 850 bags. Old Crop, Heed to bold...... : 63s 0d 893 0d sa act Perera at bags Guatemala—5,295 bags—part sold ; New Granada...... 0 bags. * good to fine ordinary foxy.. 58s 0d 60s 6d | Porto Rico.. , pehielly bought in. grayish to fine ord. greenish, 63s 0d 66s Ud | Manila............ bold to good greenish....... Ws Od Ws 0d | Java.........0 woe good to fine colory ......... ‘853 Od = =92s 0d The following table shows the imports, consumption, and stocks of coffee in England on December 31st of each year from 1869 to 1880 : rear. | smpons [Comme] sted, | yaar, | spots, [Comm Sots, Tons. Tons. Tons, Tons, Tons, Tons. 1869 ..... .o| 77,416 | 12,994 | 29,468 || 1875 ......| 79,487 | 14,307 | 17,696 1870 ..,....| 80,286 | 13,674 | 30,762 || 1876......| 68,082 | 14,685 | 9.058 1871...... . 85,711 13.664 | 24,757 |) 1877...... 80,414 | 14,413 | 18,596 1872...... .| 74.227 | 18,917 | 14,765 || 1878. 7 63) 484 | 14,656 | 15,395° 1873 .,,...+| 81,876 | 14,192 | 12,516 || 1879...... 80, 469 | 15,233 | 15,285 1874...... < 70,246 18,952 | 18,750 |} 1880...... 77, 797 | 14,540 | 19,497 212 COFFEE. The per capita consumption of coffee in the United Kingdom is very small, tea being the favorite beverage, the consumption of which in 1879 was 160,652,187 pounds, or 4.80 pounds per head ; and in 1880, 158,576,334 pounds, or 4.66 pounds per head. The consumption of coffee between the years 1843 and 1880, inclusive, is given in the following table: Consumption in United Kingdom, 1843-80, inclusive. Year. Pounds, ‘Per Head. Year. Pounds. Per Head. 1843 ......... 29,979,404 1.10 1862 .. 34,664,155 1,18 1844 ......... 31,352,382 1.14 1863 .. 32,986,116 1.11 1845 iccsceas0% 34,298,190 1.23 1864... 31,591,122 1.06 1846 ......... 36,754,554 | 1.30 || 1865 30,748,849 | 1.02 TBAT srascrewraeiers 87,441,373 1.33 1866 30,944,363 1.03 1848 ......... 87,077,546 1.37 1867 31,567,760 1.05 1849 ic ccnisnies 84,399,374 1.24 1868 30,608,464 1.01 1850 coves ce $1,166,358 | 1.14 || 1869 29,109,113 | 0.94 TEDL ss aadess 82,504,545 1.18 1870 30,629,710 0.99 1852 ......26. 34,978,432 1,27 1871 31,010,645 0.98 * 1853 ......... 86,983,122 1,34 1872 31,661,311 1.60 1854 ......... 37,850,994 | 1.84 || 1873..... ...| 82,830,928 | 1.01 1855 ......... 35,764,564 1.28 1874: 5. .2606 31,860,080 0.99 1856 .........; 34,995,944 1.24 1875 .....0.. 82,526,256 1.01 1857. ceesicees 34,367,484 1.21 1876 ........ 38,342, 288 1.02 T8538 )i5 5 eieisarexs 35,338,111 1 24 qSTT ose aesccts 32,830,224 0.99 DDD o:5 cis ease » 34,492,947 1.20 1898). ose s-ais 33,393,248 1.00 1860 ......... 35,674,381 1.28 1879 ........ 84,696,256 1.04 1861 ......... 85,875,675 | 1.21 || 1880........ $2,569,824 | 0.96 “Tf we examine closely the statistics of coffee-consumption in England,” remarks Mr. Simmonds, “ we find that in the first four years of the century it was only an ounce per head; in the .five years ending 1809 it averaged three ounces. It then increased in the next quinquennial period to six ounces, at which proportion it remained steady till 1825-29, when it advanced to eleven ounces, increased in the next five years to fifteen ounces, averaged about a pound per head for the following ten years, and then kept steady at about a pound and a quarter till 1861, since which period it has been gradually declining contemporaneously with the increased consumption of tea, and notwithstanding a re- duction of duty.” In 1880 we find that the people of England were using nearly five pounds of tea to each pound of coffee con- sumed. COFFEE-CONSUMPTION OF THE WORLD. 213 The causes of this movement of the two staples in opposite di- rections would certainly form an interesting subject of inquiry. Are we to see here the operation of that “British pride,” which, in a French opinion already quoted, had so much to do with the first adoption of coffee in England, or that general law which prompts the metropolis to become a consumer of the products of its dependencies—a law exemplified in the case of Spain and Por- tugal, which to this day continue to use chocolate long after the colonies from which they drew the article have become indepen- dent states. But, if the trade of China is to all intents and pur- poses British trade, and the East generally is next to British, do not the British colonies of Ceylon and India produce coffee in in- creased quantities? If the higher price of coffee has not pre- vented the spread of its popularity on the continent—in France, for instance—can we look to that cause with regard to wealthy England, where habits of economy among the people prevail to a much more limited extent? Or, is it entirely a preference of taste, a special congeniality of tea to the British temperament—a peculiar adaptability to British diet—as some will have it ? Professor Lehman considered that the preference of the Eng- lish for tea was due to the larger supply of plastic material afforded by their diet—a fact which rendered desirable the pro- portionately greater nervous stimulus which is caused by tea, while the populations of France and of Germany, being much lighter “feeders,” found an important element in the retardation of the assimilative process by the influence of coffee. The table below exhibits the imports, consumption, and stocks of coffee in France on December 31st, from 1869 to 1880: ear, | Tmporta | Cogsume soa “Year, | Importe, | gen” | Des Sat Tons. Tons. Tons. Tons. Tons. Tons, 1869...... 84,568 | 50,327 | 31,332 || 1875..... 91,209 | 48,013 | 25,068 1870..... «| 67,378 | 72,665 | 2.935 || 1876..... 86,597 | 53,487 | 30,189 1871 sic 00% 59,407 | 40,155 | 2,262 || 1877..... 74,178 | 47,810 | 29,735 1872..... .| 41,464 | 16,708 | 10,682 |' 1878..... 87,416 | 54,105 | 34,321 1873...... 73,895 | 44,834 | 19,852 |! 1879.....} 100,327 | 56,825 | 38,924 1874...... 64,888 | 38,706 | 15,311 | 1880..... 88,040 | 57,722 | 40,904 214 COFFEE. The new French tariff imposes the following rates of duty upon coffee, given in francs and centimes per 100 kilos: New tariff. Old tariff. Coffee berries and nibs. ........c.seceerecceecees 156.00 ; 150 GeRcccousted antl willed.) ca sewn snskocrevenaats 208,00 -00 to 170.00 The average consumption from 1876 to 1880 was 53,990 tons (120,937,600 pounds), which, divided among a population of 37,405,000 persons, shows a use of 3.23 pounds per capita. ‘In Germany the use of coffee is very general. For the last five years the consumption averaged 101,655 tons per annum, which, with a population of 43,000,000, makes it 5.3 pounds per capita. The consumption from 1869 to 1880, inclusive, was as follows: Tons. Tons. Tons. 1869........ 81,368 1873........ 97,775 1877... cesscs 95,779 1870, sae ccce 98,350 1874........ 90,033 1878.40.06 99,284 ASTL. cession 86,400 1875........ 100,612 1879. sseste's 112,594 1872... 0008 92,585 1876........ 106,398 1880,....... 94,222 Coffee in Holland is entered free of duty, and the consump- tion is very large; it is difficult to obtain an accurate statement of the quantity used. The imports for the last five years aver- aged 5.3 pounds per capita. The following table gives the amount for each year, from 1869 to 1880, inclusive: Tons. Tons, Tons. 1869........ 59,160 TST sc csacies 70,490 1877 cecicews 84,240 1870........ 69,040 1874 occneses 63,900 TSS 55 eseisce's 67,639 AST: ccc scscane 80,630 TBST seis wise 81,620 ASTD ccciiicies 67,790 VOIR eecdiwicvatece 45,360 1876........ 55,950 1880......... 82,620 The people of Belgium, being fond of coffee, used from 1872- 77 an average of 21,718 tons (48,649,000 pounds) per annum, which is equivalent to nine pounds per capita. The enormous consumption in Holland is accounted for by the climate, by the want of good drinking-water, but, principally, by the great cheapness of coffee in that country. “At the pres- COFFEE-CONSUMPTION OF THE WORLD. 215 ent prices,” said a Dutch writer in 1868, “coffee is in Holland the cheapest of all articles of food.” The nations of Northern Europe, it will be noticed, are heavy coffee-drinkers, with the exception of Russia, which is essentially a tea and spirit drinking nation. The average annual import into the Netherlands from 1873 to 1877 was 101,567 tons; the export for the same period averaged 70,839 tons per annum, thus making the consumption 30,728 tons per annum, or 68,830,720 pounds, which, on a basis of population of 4,000,000, is equal to seventeen pounds per capita. Dr. Van Den Berg furnishes the following statement: 1863—1867. Kilos, Tons. General import............-sscceeeeeee 81,494,000 80,038 SE) CEPOL soe skeen eecpdieae seca > 67,534,000 66,328 Probable consumption,............se008 13,960,000 18,710 1868—1872. General import.........-cee ce ceo cece 92,916,000 91,257 BE ORPOL Gs cic.c do osc easiness 74,689,000 73,3855 Probable consumption. .... leie| alate ever ayeuaiare 18,227,000 17,902 1873—1877. General import... ......ccee eee eecesces 103,416,000 101,569 ‘6 export........ elahciaiwiaie Sa wines 72,127,000 70,839 Probable consumption. ...........-+0006 31,289,000 80,730 The above statement shows a remarkable increase, the present consumption amounting to about eighteen pounds annually per capita, based on a population, from 1873 to 1877, of 3,850,000 per- sons. In Austria the consumption, according to the returns from 1874 to 1878, was 36,587 tons (81,953,960 pounds) per annum, which, with a population of 37,000,000, gives a per capita use of 2.21 pounds. , Switzerland uses 8,200 tons per annum, which, divided among 2,750,000 inhabitants, gives to each 6.68 pounds. Italy, from 1873 to 1877, consumed 12,635 tons (28,303,000 pounds), or equal to 1.05 pounds per capita, placing the popula- tion at 27,000,000. In Spain, cocoa or chocolate is used in preference to coffee, of 216 COFFEE. which a small quantity is imported, the amount varying from 2,250 to 8,150 tons per annum. Coffee pays customs duty, per kilogram, 2 reals vellon; municipal duty, per kilogram, 1.08 reals vellon; transitory duty, per kilogram, 1.08 reals vellon ; total customs duty, per kilogram, 4.16 reals vellon. The duties on coffee amount to about 39 per cent. on cost. Portugal is a very small consumer, also Greece, the two countries not taking, as an extreme figure, over 2,500 tons per annum. The statistics relative to the other parts of Europe show that in Russia, Sweden, Norway, Asiatic and European Turkey, and Denmark, about 50,000 tons of coffee are used annually. Bringing together the figures showing the consumption in the different parts of Europe and the United States, we have the ex- tent of the present demand made by coffee-consuming countries upon the coffee-plantations of the world: Tons. Average yearly consumption in the United States, 1876—1880........ . 156,482 om a ‘6 United Kingdom, 1876—1880...... 14,898 sf es in France, 1876—1880............0eee08 53,990 §& #6 in Zollverein (Germany), 1876—1880..... 101,655 “ “ in Belgium, 1872—1877....... sor pernseus 21,718 se 66 in Netherlands, 1873—1877............5. 30,730 " “6 in Austria, 1873—1878......... aeaenpesaieNs 36,587 7 “ in Italy, 1872—1877...........cececeeee 12,635 ee * in Switzerland, 1873—1878.............. 8,150 bs oy in Spain and Portugal, estimated ........ 3,000 “in other countries in Europe, partly estimated... 52,5C0 Average annual consumption, Europe and North America..... 492,343 The quantity of coffee consumed per annum in Europe, ac- cording to the above table, is 335,861 tons, or 38,054 tons less than the distribution as given in the trade circular of Messrs. James Cook & Co., of London. An accurate estimate of the quantity consumed in Europe and North America cannot be made, owing to the lack of official statistics in some countries, to the unknown quantity held as stock beyond first hands, to the want of reliable figures showing re-exports from importing countries, and to the imperfection of existing data; yet it can be closely ap- proximated, and we feel safe in making the statement that 500,000 COFFEE-CONSUMPTION OF THE WORLD. 217 to 510,000 tons is a full estimate for present requirements in this country and in Europe. The compilation of Dr. Van Den Berg makes the total con- sumption of Europe and the United States 479,000,000 kilos, or 493,482, tons. The rest of the world dependent upon the coffee- exporting countries for a supply does not require annually more than 12,000 tons, so that we can safely say that a supply of 510,000 tons will be ample to meet the wants of the coffee-consuming countries of the world. Brazil has furnished for the past three years an average of 241,765 tons; Java, 89,797 tons; Ceylon, 43,022 tons; India, 16,077 tons; the West Indies, 40,000 tons; Central America, 50,000 tons; Venezuela and New Grenada, 35,000 tons; Mexico, 5,000 tons; Arabia, 4,000 tons. Thus, leaving all other minor producing points out of our calculation— which will balance any over-estimate for Central America—we have from the countries named above a supply of 524,661 tons. From this showing it appears that supply is fully abreast of de- mand, despite leaf-disease in Ceylon, while the excess of stocks held at the beginning of 1881 will quite balance the short Java crop of 1880-81. To what extent new plantations that are to come into bearing in South America, Mexico, and Central America, will add to the supply, is a problem that only time can enable us to solve. There is everything in the situation to warrant a range of prices much lower than those ruling from 1862 to 1879, the more so as there is little chance of speculative rings being formed, for Europe is not given to such operations, and American coffee-merchants have during the past year been taught a lesson that will not soon be forgotten. CHAPTER XXV. THE KING OF THE COFFEE TRADE. Five-anp-Forty years ago, or thereabouts, a bright, ambitious youth left his home in Rhode Island and came to New York, bringing with him a first-class reputation as an accountant. In fact, his business tact and ability were of so high an order that they soon commanded attention. He made a connection, in 1836, with one of the largest and most respectable firms on the east side of the city, engaged in the grocery business. This young man possessed in an eminent degree the faculty which marks most men of note—that of keeping his own counsels. Although possessing great confidence in his own abilities, he was modest and unobtrusive in manner, and pursued his ambitions in a resolute but quiet way, which, for the time being, attracted but little attention. There is nothing special to record regarding the next fifteen years of his life, other than to say that his social position was all that could be desired, and his progress and reputation as a mer- chant rapid for those days. In 1851 he was admitted a junior partner in the proud firm he had so long and faithfully served— a firm standing at the very head of the coffee trade. The senior member of the firm was one of those merchant-princes of whom New York was, and is still, justly proud. In financial as well as trade circles the name of this man was a tower of strength, while socially he occupied a first place. To be associated with such a man as a partner was no small honor, and our Rhode Island youth estimated the privilege for all that it was worth, and undoubtedly looked forward to the day when the senior should retire and the junior succeed to hisplace. That day came after various changes, THE KING OF THE COFFEE TRADE. 219 in 1868, and the book-keeper of 1836 became the head of a large firm, with a clear half-million to his credit. Ambitious to make his mark in the business world, and to become the peer of his illustrious predecessor, he launched out ‘boldly, and in 1869 we find him engineering a great speculation in coffee. Old bankers shook their heads ominously, and doubted his ability to wear the laurels won by the merchant-prince who formerly directed the firm’s affairs. The bankers felt that pru- dence dictated a conference with the new man at the helm, espe- cially as he was inclined to enter upon bold speculative operations. To them, in substance, the merchant said: “Whatever else I know, I think I know the coffee trade thoroughly. I shall act upon my own judgment, and by it ‘sink or swim.’” Those who are familiar with the coffee trade will by this time have recognized the pen-picture we have drawn as that of B. G. Arnold, the well-known “ King of the Coffee Trade.” For more than ten years he ruled the coffee market of this country as abso- lutely as any hereditary monarch controls his kingdom, and his influence was felt throughout the commercial world. Our tables of prices bear eloquent testimony of his power, and it is known that the operations of a single year succeeding the interview with the bankers above noted yielded his firm a profit of one million two hundred thousand dollars. In the social world he filled a large place. At his palatial residence the President of the United States was a guest, and the periodical receptions were social events. But all things come to an end, and in accordance with this immutable law, the control which Mr. Arnold and his associates exercised over the coffee market finally ceased. For the first five years of the de- cade 1870-1880, the coffee market had been steadily forced up until abnormally high prices were reached ; these stimulated pro- duction, and in 1876, while in Java, the writer, in a letter to the American Grocer, used the following words: “ As a conse- quence of these high prices many new coffee-gardens have been planted, and these are just beginning to bear and must inevitably have an effect upon the future market. The quantity of govern- ment coffee raised in Java last year, which was rather a poor year, was 494,000 piculs, while the crop of 1876, which is a good year, is 1,266,000 piculs. It is also said that the production has pro- 220 COFFEE. portionately increased in Sumatra and other coffee-bearing islands of the Malay Archipelago, and that the average yield during the next few years must be very large. If the same causes produce like effects in other coffee-producing sections of the globe, we may reasonably look forward to moderate prices for this staple in the future.” The sequel is known to all: production outran consumption, prices went down, down, down, despite the desperate and more or less successful efforts made at times to rally the market, until the final result came in the disastrous failures in 1880, which swept away the leading houses of the coffee trade in the United States. The chief cause of this disaster seems to have been an inability on the part of the leading spirits in the coffee trade to look on both sides of the question, a result which inevitably comes sooner or later in all speculative transactions. As usual, since the great failures in the coffee trade, there have been plenty of persons ready to say unkind things of the chief actors in the drama; but, while there can be but one opinion as to the welfare of the public being subserved by the failure of specu- lative combinations, all who know Mr. B. G. Arnold are ready to concede that the failure of such a man is, in one sense, a public misfortune. As an industrious, energetic, and upright merchant, faithfully fulfilling every engagement; as a charitable and public- spirited citizen, fully performing his duty to society, the character of Mr. Arnold stands out in bold relief and is worthy of all com- mendation. He still continues in business with his son, Mr. F. B. Arnold, and, with his intimate knowledge of the staple and his long business experience, it is not improbable that there may come another phase to this romance of trade, and “the king will have ‘his own again.” CHAPTER XXVI. THE TROPICS’ BEST GIFT. How little do the millions throughout the civilized world, who sit at their breakfast-tables, realize the labor and pains which have been taken to place before them the fragrant cup which, if good, makes everything good ! From the time when the little seedling first shoots above the ground in the tropics, it is watched and shaded, pruned and cul- tured by the dusky sons of toil; nor is the task near ended when the planter sees his hopes realized in the red, ripe berry. Let us trace it from hand to hand until it reaches the table of the consumer. In its gathering and preparation a vast amount of labor is required; then comes its transportation to the sea- board, where it is weighed, stored, sampled, assorted, and sold, oftentimes passing through the hands of several owners before shipment to the country where it is destined to be consumed. Here it is placed in great warehouses and the same formalities are again observed. After leaving the plantation and before reaching the consumer, it has paid tribute to the transporter to the shipping port, to the laborers, warehousemen, brokers, merchants, and bankers of that country; to the ships which carry it abroad; to the custom-houses of importing countries, to their stevedores, storage warehouses, insurance companies, and bankers; to the brokers who sample and sell it, the weighers who weigh it, and the wholesale merchants who buy it. Then comes its cartage or lighterage, its roasting and sale to retail merchants, and its trans- portation to the point where it is finally distributed and consumed. Twelve hundred millions of pounds of coffee annually pass through this routine, and probably a hundred millions of people, besides the consumers, are directly or indirectly benefited. Factories 222 COFFEE. have been brought into existence to manufacture the machinery required in the cultivation and preparation of this staple; great mills work throughout the whole year on the bagging required for the packages; warehouses worth millions have been provided for its storage; mighty fleets of vessels are created and maintained for its carriage on the sea, and railroads for its transportation on land. Governments find it a chief source of customs revenue. In the eleven years, 1861 to 1872, the import duty on coffee yielded nearly one hundred millions of dollars to the United States Gov- ernment. In England, France, Germany, and other countries, it contributes largely to the national treasuries, while in Brazil the export duty on coffee is the chief source of revenue. All this from a little berry which hardly more than two centuries since was scarcely known in commerce, and whose chief development has been within the last century. Surely, it must have some precious properties to thus command the homage of the civilized world ! It has been said of wine that ‘Tt warms the heart and stirs the blood Till it leaps in the veins like a bounding flood.” It has also been said that “wine is a turncoat: first a friend, and then an enemy.” But coffee is an ever-faithful, steadfast friend, and whether in torrid, or temperate, or frigid climes, everywhere throughout the civilized world, in the king’s palace or the laborer’s hut, it is eagerly prized, for it cheers and comforts, brightens and blesses, as doth no other substance under the sun. Brillat Savarin said, “A last course at dinner wanting cheese is like a pretty woman with only one eye ;” and if this be true of cheese, is it not doubly so of coffee, and without coffee and cheese would not a dinner be like a beautiful woman with both “ win- dows of the soul” lacking? Certain it is that since Savarin’s time all gourmets have concurred in adding coffee as the ap- propriate and crowning luxury of a perfect dinner; when coffee is served, then “the feast of reason and flow of soul” begins, and without the fragrant cup dulness prevails. It is a striking fact that coffee is pre-eminently a promoter of the social element; from its earliest use this has been a notable THE TROPICS’ BEST GIFT. 223 feature. It has also indirectly been an aid to liberty and freedom of speech, for when it attracted men together they naturally dis- cussed events, and free discussion is the parent of liberty. As stated elsewhere, its use in Moslem countries met with strong op- position from both the civil and religious authorities; and in Eng- lish history we find that, in 1675, Charles II. attempted to suppress the then new institution of coffee-houses by a royal proclamation in which it was stated that they were the resort of disaffected per- sons, “who devised and spread abroad divers false, malicious, and. scandalous reports, to the defamation of His Majesty’s government and to the disturbance of the peace and quiet of the nation.” On the opinion of legal persons being taken as to the legality of this step, an oracular deliverance was given to the effect that “the re- tailing of coffee might be an innocent trade, but, as it was used to nourish sedition, spread lies, and scandalize great men, it might also be a common nuisance.” That coffee promotes sociability among men cannot be doubted any more than that its twin sister, the fragrant leaf of China and Japan, promotes sociability among women, and in the above official announcement of the advisers of Charles II. the ladies have an argument which they can throw in the teeth of the sterner sex, if any be so unkind as to intimate that tea-parties are the source of much scandal and gossip. The active stimulating element is the same in both coffee and tea; in the former it is known as caffeine, while in the latter it has been designated theine. As explained elsewhere, they are chemi- cally identical, and their effect upon the nervous system, when taken in equal quantities, is precisely similar. Considering its importance from an economic and therapeutic standpoint, this substance does not seem to have received from scientific men the attention which it deserves. This subtle principle embodied in Arabia’s fragrant berry has outlived prejudice, has triumphed over opposition ; religious and political bigotry, aided by military force, has failed to suppress it; and may we not claim that it has fairly won the first place in the world’s social and domestic economy, and that it is truly the tropics’ best gift ? STATISTICAL TABLES SHOWING THE IMPORTS, EXPORTS, CONSUMPTION, RECEIPTS, AND PRICES OF COFFEE IN THE UNITED STATES AND FOREIGN MARKETS. STATISTICAL TABLES. 227 ® STATISTICAL TABLES SHOWING THE IMPORTS, EXPORTS, CONSUMPTION, RECEIPTS, AND PRICES OF COFFEE IN TIE UNITED STATES AND FOREIGN MARKETS. TABLE I. Imports, Exports, Consumption, and Stock of Coffee in the United States, Atlantic Ooast, from 1854 to 1880, inclusive. Year Imports, Exports, Consumption. Stock, Dec. 31st. u Total tong. Total tona, Total tons, Total tons, ISDA aces s'os.0'65 81,460 5,641 80,125 8,700 1855.........006 106,345 6,958 93,919 14,168 LSB6. cscs cas 103,100 3,945 97,423 15,900 W857 oasis ecnaas 97,265 13,097 77,038 23,030 NBOS: csc setae vee 101,635 3,800 112,167 8,700 1809. cies ancees 110,950 8.593 99,380 11,677 3,760 79,068 11,786 3,597 83,502 6,107 4,613 39,728 : 5,766 1,445 35,589 * 9.384 - 9,484 48,700 9,018 2,413 57,191 9,046 2,237 71,891 9,252 2,897 90,807 16,585 5,065 99,642 18,088 7,092 108,479 10,625 2542 125,407 8811 2575 141,344 8,954. 2,588 121,303 9,169 38,066 120,303 5,951 1,931 123,913 2,281 3,496 136,649 20,529 3,855 134,109 1,850 4141 135,238 18,594 6,302 141,949 11,250 7,495 179,525 22,040 L880 sac esyeesans 176,694 10,777 168,678 12,279 228 COFFEE. e TABLE IL. Receipts and Consumption of Coffee in the United States, 1851 to 1880, inclusive. Year. Recatule eens Year. ee aa ora 1851 ........- 96,448 82,243 1866........ 73,836 71,392 1852 ..... eee 91,760 91,514 L867:. siasieruiinis 101,038 90,851 1853 .....666- 86,210 78,482 1868........ 106,255 99,643 1854 ......... 81,461 80,125 1869. oie 108,307 108,679 1855 .....-... 106,345 97,490 1870........ 126,134 125,407 103,086 97,422 IB TL sx-eccaiess 144,062 141,348 97,264 77,038 1872. census 128,944 121,303 101,632 112,167 OTB ec ctctectnacs 120,146 120,150 110,949 99,379 NBT ec snerstarais 124,960 126,200 82,937 79,067 157,862 137,321 81,359 83,502 119,550 135,058 43,999 39,727 152,327 135,906 33,598 35,589 147,080 142,372 64,868 48,699 198,010 179,241 59,631 57,208 1880........ 176,581 166,463 In the above statement of consumption we have included only the direct receipts at the ports, the couwstwise receipts being embraced in the calculation at the port of original entry. TABLE III. Comparative Prices, New York Market, 1858 to 1880, inclusive. Year. \ Brazil. Java. {Maracaibo Year. Brazil. Java. {Maracaibo 10.96 | 16.13 12.04 || 1870...... 16.33 21.19 17.47 11.61 14.79 11.89 1871...... 15.91 21.29 16.22 18.69 | 16,15 138.83 1872 ...... 18.42 | 21.30 18.18 14.01 18.38 15.88 || 18738...... 19.99 23.63 20.51 23.01 27.50 | 24.31 1874.02... 21.08 26.68 | 20.87 31.18 | 37.04 | 81.93 1875 ...... 19.01 26.71 20.54 42.49 | 49.10 | 41.59 1876 ...... 17.97 21.57 | 17.02 20.65 | 25.82 | 21.80 LETT eosin 19.72 23.82 18.92 18.66 | 26.08 | 19.45 1878 ...... 16.51 22.48 15.52 17.24 | 24.75 17.69 1879 ...... 14.85 24.14 | 14.70 15.73 | 23.41 16,38 1880...... 15.12 22.12 15.52 15.82 | 23.02 17.54 The highest price of Rio in 1864 was 531¢ cents, in July ; lowest, 3314 cents, in January. Java sold in August of that year at 60 cents, and in January at 40 cents, currency. From 1861 to 1865 quotations in currency, after that date in gold. STATISTICAL TABLES. 229 TABLE IV. Cargo Prices of Fair to Prime Rio Coffee in New York, Duty Paid, Monthly, from 1825 to 1880, inclusive. Year, Lowest. Highest. Average prices. Duties, —March ..../19 —May......] 1637 @ 5 cents per pound. —September | 17 hate ae 1414 @ @ Ke oe —September|15 —February .| 14° @ 14% —September | 15 —January ..| 128f @ 13% " —June —January ..| 12 @ 123% . —September —January ..| 11 @ 114% es —January .. —November.| 11 @ 114% | 2 —May —November.| 1214 @ 12% |1 Hs —May —March .... @ 1284 | Free. -— — — ....| 1 @ 12 “ —Jnanuary ..|138 —January ..| 114% @ 12 ss —January ..}13 —March....; 11 @ in —July'... .. 12 —February .| 98 @ 1114 fe —March ....|12 —December.| 91g @ 1144 es —December.| 12 —Aprl.....) 10 @ 113% —July ...... 12 —October... 91g @ 10% ee —June...... 11 —February .| 9144 @ 101g ee —December .|10 —January..| 74 @ 944 He —September. os May sa tievets 64 @ 8 = — — |? —— ...... @ 7% —July ...... 8 —October --| 6 @ %g | Free in Am. ships. —October...) 8 —January..| 64 @ 7% “ ue —June...... 8 —January..| 634 @ 7 | Free. —August...| 8 eee 54g @ 6% is —January ..|10 —December 64 @ ee —May...... 14 —february.| 10 @1iK% ee —November.} 11 —February .| 84 @ 91g se —fFebruary .|10 —May...... 8 @ 9 ns —January ..|12 —December.| 814 @ 10 es —December.|12 —January..| 9 @11¥ a —January ..|12 —September) 93¢ @ 1084 i —July ...... 12 —January..| 10 @ 114 se —January ../12 —July...... 10144 @ 11K ue —February .|12 —November.| 937 @ 11 eo —January ..|13 —December.} 10/4 @ 12 s —February .|15 —August...| 13 @14 oe —January ..|17 —December.| 1214 @ 15 s —February .| 33 —December.! 21 @ 23 5 cents per pound. —September. 83 —December.| 293¢ @ 31 i 1864". ..... it 3—July ...... 229—April..... a 1865....... 14 —December .| 181g—June...... 15 @17 i 1866. .sesa< 10x,—Suly a bistaiaie 1¢14g—March .... ‘ fe 1867....... 9 aera 14%—April..... é ‘ 1868....... 8t¢—January ..| 121¢—March .. 9 118 a 1860, cvaus 83{—January ..|12 —April..... 1 @ 1154 si 1870, ...... 9lg—January . -| 1324—April Sais eks 3 ef 1871 ....ciiic 104g—January ..|18 —December.| 12 @ 14 tS 1872. 6656 1414g—April ..... 19 —June...... 1544 @ 18 From July 1, free, 1878. ...... 1734—March ....| 27 —December.} 19'4 @ 21 Free, 1874....... 1684—September.| 28 —January ..| 198¢ @ 22 et 1875: 22.005 1534—March ....| 2114,—September| 1834 @ 195 $8 L816 «ini cee 1614g—August ...| 191g—January ..| 1744 @ 1884 * 1877....... 15 —November. 21144—January ..| 18 @ 19 oe 1878. s.0svae » 14 —December . fea aT 155¢ @ 1714 tt 1809. escincsie< 13. —May...... 18 —November.| 14 @ 15% * 1880....... 11 W Desmnbae, 17 —January ..| 144 @ 16 " * Gold prices, COFFEE. 230 “SORT ‘BeqMIg peyTaN, ‘yIodey eouwnyT » MLO" ng] LOV.9 | /igsO""/s9 | Ho OL | KOTOHKE | /eorO"Vog Vat O™ or] HITOKe | HID | VeetO%re [eee asereay 8 ©9 2 @9 4 @9 6 @9 01@6 W@or - IL@6 sI@or TL@01 st@iwr | 7" gaquieseq, 8 wo 4 @9 4 @9 6 @ T1@6 —VvIL e@or = |- st@or IL@0r —Ol |: * doQuaAON, § D9 4 @9 8 OL 6 WL 11@6 sI@or BI @ot £T@0r TT@6 er@lL *** Jaqo700 8 @9 4 @9 8 OL Or@s TI@01 IL@0L sI@Dor SIO 11@6 —Oll * Taquieydeg 4 @9 4 @9 8 OL 6 @L W@or 0r@6 BI WOL I1@6 16 SI@IL “qsngny 1 @G 1@9 8 OL Or@z 01@6 016 sl @vr IL@6 T1@6 eI@IL “Aue 4 ®9 4 @9 8 ores 0r@e 0r@g BIWOL 0T@6 ELWOL sI@Ir | * eune 8 WY 4 @9 6 9 01r@g 016 016 BL@or 016 sl Wor —el “ACW 8 v9 2 W9 8 @y 6 WL 0r@6 TLW6 STOOL 11@6 BIOL SI@IL “THdy 2 @9 4 @9 8 oy 6 Os TLWOL 11@6 sI@1L TL@6 eLWIL Sl Bel “*YoIEHL —@9 —09 6 WL OT@x —OlL TLW6 SIVIL BI@or eI@o aWir =| Arenigag 4 @9 4 @©9 6 @9 0r@s Tr@or IL@b Ir@o0r 1L@or eI Wor BLOTE: [ss siriiecte ce ss Arenuve Stst ¥tst Stst SPSL TesE OFST Gest sest LEST oest “qyUOyL . | “eotOXU | SOW |MeOMNet| *herOxver YesrO"Ynor] KO ir) erOsr | KerOxer| srOrxr | xerO%rr| zrOveor |----- oseroay et@1 erO1L eT Der —@sl ST Osi eT@IL eT Oe eter ST@PT SI @PFL TOM fit JoqueoaqL sL@IL SIWIL L@at —OPL ELWEl SILL el @~el £1 @@r GLWPT SL@PL st@L1 qoquiaauN, SI@IL SIO &T sl PLOEL SLWTE —OIL Elst S1@st — FI SL@FE SSOAT; [EP eeee 32q0190 SIOIL SIWIT SL WSL —@El BOIL ILOL SLWeorl SL Os —Orr ST@FL —@ Jequiaydag S1OUL —Ol —@e@ —Wel ZIOIL IL@o1 —@el —UEL —OFT GI@PFL —O!I asnany EL@st eIOIr — Wer —Oar SI@IL OIL —Oer ser OF ST@PL OM * Se el@et SLOIL SOIL s1@er sr@IL —OIL — er —OEr —OPT SI@PL st@Lr eune S1@er erOrr srOIr — Wet —Or sr@IE sLOst et@et STOPL Oar O61 ken —@@I SLOIT EL @@L s1@— —OIL SLO E1WEL —@El STV FT —O9L LI@9T “dy —Wel sI@IL FI@et glO-- —®@O01 — zl ST @et PI@EL GL? PL —O9L LLB 91 "0" Woauyy sIOIL sIWIL — WEL eLO— —W0L —OEel TQS FL@Ert SL Ort —O9I LOOT * Arenigeag sIOIL sI@1l —@Er g1@— —®oL —er ET OST SI@PL STOP LI@9L AI@9E foe Arenuyp sest Est eest SEST Test oest 6281 82st Lest 9vst cesr “gquORL x 201SNIUL “CHET 07 GeST ‘yruonr yous fo burumbag ay, wo ysox mayy un aaffog ory fo sorry 0bing STATISTICAL TABLES. ® 231 Cargo Prices in Gold, “in Bond,” for Fair to Prime Rio Coffee in New York, from 1846 to 1880 inclusive. Month, 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 1851, January ........5.. T4%@ 8 UH@ 1% | 640 Us| 64@ 64/11 @12 | 10 oie February .. T%@ 8 % @%| 64{@7%) S“@7™ 114 @14¥] 11 @11K March .. 1%@ 8% | 1K@ 8 64@ %%| 64@7 | 18 @18¥% | 1Ww@11K% April . 7 @8 T%@ 8 6% US| 64@7 | 12 @12] 10 @10% May.. 7 @8 7%4@ 1% | 66@ Us| 6 @tK| 9 @ IW! 9%@10 June TH@ 8 63@ 7% | 64@ 14] 6 @i4| %@ se ae July.. 74@ 8 7 @™%!| 64%@ 6%| 6 @ tw] Y @10W | Ba 9 August 6%@ 8 6% 7% | 5%@ 6% | 6%@ 7%| 9 @10K%) 8 @ 3” September . 64Y@ 7K | 7 @™%| 5%Q 6%] 64@ 8 9 @l1 8 @9 October ... 64@ TH | 6K@ UK| 5S@ 6%) %%@10 9%@124| 8 @9 November. , ....| 64@ 36] 7 @7%| 54@ 6%| I9@10¥ | Wi4@11w | Wwe I” December.......... 74@ 8 64@ 7% | 54@ 6%] Yw@11w~| 10 @1kK| T6@ 9K Average ....... 6.99@7.90 | 6.94@7.%5 | 6.19@7.08 | 6.68@8.07 |10.28@11.54] $.90@9.98 Month. 1852 1853 1854 1855 1856 1857 January 8 @ 8% | 84@ 9% | 1Y@124 | 9 @106 | 10 @12%)/ 10 @11% February T4@ 96 | 8%@ 9% | 94@11% | 9 @10%) 10 @i2~ | 10 @il1 March . 84@ 94 | 8% @10 9 @122g | 9 @11% | 10% @124¢ | 103¢@11% April 84 @10 8%@10 | 10 @113 | 10 @11% | 10%@12 | 10%@12 May..... 83.@10% | 9 @ 9%| 9411!) 10 @11 | 10%@12 | 10%@12 June 84@ 9% | 8 @9%| 94@11¥ | 8%@10% | 9s@11% aay July 87~@ 9% | 8 @10 84@11 94%@11 94@ @12 August .. 84Y@ 936 | 84@10 9 @i1 | 10 @11x% | 10%@11% Lis piaeg Septerber @ 9%| 9 @12 9 @11%}10 @12 | 10%@11% | 11 @12K% October. 8 @ 9%] 9%@11%] 10 @12 | 10 @11% | 10K%@1 11 @12 Novembe 8 @ 94/10 @11%| 9%@11%] 10 @11% | 10%@11¥% | 10K~@11 Decembe 84@ 9% | 10%@12 9 @10. 94 @1246 | 10 @11%| 9%@10 Average ....... 8,19@9.52 | 8.98@ 10.54 | 9.40@11.57 | 9.58@11.37 Maas ae ADAG Month. 1858 1859 1860 1861 1862 1863 January ........065 94 @10% | 10%@12 | 114% @12% | 11W~@13 [12.96 @14.90/14.65@16.71 February . “11 10% @1136 | 108%7@12_ | 1136 @12% | 1146 @13 [13.35 @15.33/13.82@15 49- March..... 104 @113g | 10%/(@12% | 124% @14 | 113(@13% |14.6117.06115.97@ 17.58 ‘April ... 10%@1136 | 11 @12h | 184¢@idw | 12/@14__ |13.72@17.16]15.39@16.71 May... 10% @1136 | 11 @12% | 184@14 | 124 @13H% |13.39@16.29]15.81 @17.15 June . 114¥@1136 | 11 @12 | 13 @14%] 11%@14_ |13.87@15.76]15.41@17.14 July. 1036@10% | 10%@12_—| 184 @14¥6 | 12 @14¥ |13.18@14.48]16.57@17.91 ‘August . 10% @113g | 10%@11% | 15 @15% | 8%@11_ [14.21 @15.09]15.63@17.62 Septemb 10% @12 | 12 @12% | 184%@15% | 93% @11% |13.14@14.41114.77@ 18.13 October ..| 12 @12% | 11% @124% @15% | 1146@13 /12.51 @16.01|15.61 @17.64 Novembel ‘| 1097@12 | 1144@18- | 14 @15 | 1136@13_—15.98@.20.17/15.94@ 17.97 December.......... 10%@12 | 116~@12%| 13 @138% | 124@144 j27-51@2U. .17]16.19@18.18 Average ....... 10.60 ALES HAS AUG aT Q1s hceaiem 15.44@17.35 232 , Cargo Prices in Gold, “in Bond,” for Fair to Prime Rio Coffee in COFFEE. New York, from 1846 to 1880 inclusive—(Continued). Month. 1864 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 January ......... .. {17.03 @17.85'14,91 @16.53] 1836@153s | 11 @13 84@11K% | 8%@11 a Hosea TT OL! 15.63@17.33| 185@16 | 114%@14 84 @1136 ene 17.99@18.16, 15 @164 14 @164 12° @14_ | 10%@12% | 9%@11% 18.16@21.64| 14 @164 @16 | 12 @14% | 104@12%! 9%@12 19.93 @21.33| 144 @18 2B @15¥% | 12 @14 9% @11K | 94% @12 14.91 @15.85| 1636 @1834 | 114%/@15. | 114%@14 9%@11¥ | 9 @1146 11.66@15.73] 1535@17 | 103 @14 | 10%@14 @2 936 @12 ..(18,89@15.67| 1444@16 | 1234@15__| 10%@18% |] 94@11%| 94%@11% 15.67@17.47| 15 @174 | 124 @14¥ | 10%@14 9 @11%| 9 @11% October... 12.86@13.58] 15 @17? | 13 @15 9¥@138% | 83@11% @12 November . 12.99@14.27| 144%@17% | 12 @14 9% @13 8y~@114| 9 @12 December . .|18.68@16.09) 14° @154K | 114%7@14 9 @12% | 8w@11l4| 9 @11% Average ....... 15.44 @17.01/14.92 @16.98/12. 60 @15.12/10,73 @13.73] 9.27 @11.73] 9.21 @11.81 Month. 1870 1871 1872 1873 1874 1875 January .......6... 104% @13% | 16%@18% | 18 @19% a @38 18% @199¢ February .... 104% @18% | 163, @18% | 18%@19% @2 | 17%@19 March....... 10%@18% | 154% @17 174% @18 Lee 15% @11% Aprils cacceariseeeies 10% @12% | 144@16_ | 174@184 | 19% @22h | 174 @19 MAY iastiaecs vacant 1034 @123¢ | 164 @18¥% | 184 @19¥ | 1756G@20 | 1% @18% June 1034@12 | 176@19 | 184@19% | 19%@21% | 17 @18% Tuly....... 11 @12% | 164@18 | 18% @19% | 193, @21% | 184. @19% Angust 114@13% | 16 @18 | 21 @22% | 17%@20- | 19% @20%6 September 124% @14_ | 154 @17TH | 2w@WY | 16%@20_ | Wy @21 October 15%@17% | 15@18 | 20 @22% 118 @20% | 20 @21K% November @12% | 14 @15% | 153;@18% | 20 @22%]18 @20 | 18%@20 December -| 104%@12% | 164%@18 | 16341836 | 2446@2 |: 173,@19% | 184% @19¥% Average ....... RES a Pe Se RES BE ESSENCE IO EDEL BELL Te STO Month, 1876 1877 1878 1879, 1880 Januiary.......... 18 @19¥¢ | 20 @2ix~ | 17 @18% | 14% @16% | 1534@17 February. 1ey@18% | 19¢a21 | 164%@18 | 14 Oise 1434 @16% March.......... 174 @18% | 1934@20% | 15% @17_ | 18%@14% | 14% @106 April........... 174%@19 | 184@20 | 1by@1v | 18%@1b | 14 @16 May se sesiccvacns ITZ @I184 | 19 @2036| 16 @1%% | 18 @14% | 144% O15% TUNE. sevcdicneni 16%@18 | 1932034 | 154 @17% | 184% @14% | 144 @15% July.......... 1% @18% | 19% @20% | 154@17_ | 1834%@14% | 14%@16 Angust....... 166 @1737 | 19 @20% | 16 @17% | 18%@14% | 15 @16% September... 174@18% | 16 @16%| 16418 | 184%@16 | 15 @17 October ........ 17%@19 | 16 @16%| 154@18_ | 15K @17% | 134 @16 November 18%@193 | 15 @15% | 144%@16% | 16° @18 | 18%@15 December 17%@19 | 154% @153¢ @16 | 154 @17x% | 11¢@14 Average ian si'siweanaees 17.25 @18.71] 18.04@19 |15.61@17.42 EDIE OMG é 233 STATISTICAL TABLES. LUFS LS AB 8E°e Thre &6°6h e698 "1198 889 YQ SEPT YEQL |" WWoUr oy Aoy aSeIOAY Hbe-Hes| Fe-Kes| Mpe- Fe | Hew-S¢ps]| _opS- ge) os eF| Le- —| Koe-_ oe] Mat- yt| or-ser! ot- Fr| st-3er 0g eunr SB-Hee| | Fe-HOs | He FS) 9B-_ 9B] Hpe-_ee| og er] we —| Mee-Hpa| 2T-_ ot] gr-Ser] gt- | st-%er|: OT eunr SB-HES | Hge- Hes | HS FS] 9e-HSe | Hy9e-Hae| Hrg- og] re-Hoe| ge-34po| ar-Hor| gr-Sar| si- Pr| SLI-Her qT eune Fs KEG HVE 19°S3 sces ss'Ts Tobe AD MOT. Ox°ST. EFT. TALE | **yguour eyy Joy esvrisay SB- 8] Fe GB] Ge- Fe] 9e-Hee| Meee] to- 0G] Kue-Hoe| Meshes) xt-Hor| _ gt-Hgt| oi-¥pt| gi-%er 0g ABA SB- &] Fe- LS] GV Fe] 9e-HGs| Ge sel Hee-_og| Hze- rel ee-Hpe| zI-Hor| Kor-Har| st-¥FT ir “or Aen G@- 8B) Fe GB) SS Fe) 9G GS] YE-Hes| ge-Hea) es we} g9e- sel w-S9r| gI-3et| gt-HPL| Xst- st “yey 918s FB 80°98 96°98 Tee 88'6P %ELE YG 80°LT HSS 8S°FT AV'6L |‘ *qquour eng 107 eFeI0Ay S- Ie | Hre-Hee| se-Mre} 28-3498 | e-Hee] sq-Hea| ge- zg] ge-Hee| XyI-%or!| gt-Ket| i-¥pr HEC Te | Hbe-Feew | HGe- 9s | Mye-H9s| FE sel OSH] ge- rel 9e- Sel Hz1-%or!| gt-Her] st- FT SSs- 18 | HPS-MES | AGC- 93] F1V-7%698| E- SE] OF- Sh| HSE se] 92 SUI-FOL | HOI-HGL| «SI- FT Kwe 4 FEES BOL 99°'%P &8°CF Yee %9V'98 &6°9T YL §8'FT Mee- 18] HGe-Hps| «= ge-HPs | ge-FH2w| ue- 98] pe eF| os- ge 9% | FELI-HOT| HOI-MST | SI-_ FT KEG 1B) Kee-Heps| ce~Febse | MSe-H1w| 9P- Gh} F- gh| Hat gel Soe- 98] RAI-HoL| gI-WSr| ¢er- MEL HEC 1S| HGS-HbS | Ge-MS | Stse-HL]V| — 9b] Vb- Th] oF Ge] S9e- 9%) HLI-HOL| 91-291 | SeI-Her Kes 19'FB &@ BOL &8°LP AIP ees SELP'9S F0°9T AS Tur SOOT * *"UyWOU eNg JO; eSBIEAY Kee- 18 | Moe-H ps | Moa-Peve | H9e-H1s | _BP-_ UP] sb- SCTh| ke 9s] be 98 | SOT-2 GL] OT gt] HGT-H ET] SOI-_ 91 0% Arvenage,r SEG@-_ 13) - -FB) Ga- HB | SSe-H1e | Hep-Mp| sh OF] oe as s- 98 | SOI-MGT| %SI-MeL| Gi-HET | HOT-HeT |" OF Arenaga,g HV TB) GB- -FE| HMGV- SS] Hee- kw] GOL] OT «OOP| «9G Se] Sus- 9% | OL-Mar| MaI- gt} at-HET | H9I-Har T Areniqag Hee 19's &8 FB BOL] 9t'09 SOP goes 98 96°91 ST 68°F oT ***qquoUT 049 20} oBe12Ay Fe- 1B] _ Ge HES! «Ge Fe ps | Hge-Hzs| Is- 0G] r- oF| Fe-Hee| rze- 9% | MHor-ar| ¢ar-Ker| et- FT| HoI-3er 0¢ Arenuer Fo- TS] HSe- GU] | Se HPS | He-HLT| OS- —] Th- OF] FE-Hee| ge-_ oz] Hor-Har| Hat-_ ar] SPI-_ Fr | H9T-Her|- OT Avenue Fo- Te) —- 28) Hae-Mere| Hse- 2s) Os- —| Te oF} Mee ES} $¢9e-3/Ge | HoI-Sar| st-KPr | MpT-HerL| KOT-HGr [ Axsnuee 6981 89st 298T 9981 9st $98T eost S98T T98t o9st 6o8T sest “oe ‘adisnpowe “O88T OL §GgT SIa0 A MON NI Gaa0D VAVE JO HIIG— A WIATVL “plod uy o10M storyejonb ey} 718 ‘eget ‘Tt Ane Morg—aLON GOES TP'es FEB 80°98 83°9S Ot'6P POLE FW] 8e'st AQUI 6L'PT eror [nt teak oy} Joy eBeIOAy Tres PI'S 9% 62°93 &3°2S 40g 9T'0F Sé1b FS Hes SPOT LPT LEPL |*" "uguour ey} 20} odur00V ABE-HG | HeG-_ S| | be 9B | Hue gw] gs- 1s] «OS Br| «Te Ob | Hbe- Fe] Ge- Fel Hor- ot] ot-HEL| MPI-Mer Ree ts kd * 08 Jequiaoa RB GB], PO HIG) Aw Me | HGS" GB] -BB-AB)-WI- 09] TH OP} GE pel per es] Mol- or} ar-Hpr| pI-Mer tT OL Jaquisooq HEV- GB | MEC-HTS | HGV-HFT} 9V- 93) Gs Ss} os —|] oF El Se Fel ve-Hie| Hat-wer| ei-Hprt| Gi Fr “TY toquieoe, KE 89's ad 6s"S 99°68 %46b 68°68 Pres Als 41691 A ALPE |/""Wywour omy soy oBer04y SEEB- BB FS-_ 1B) Ge-Heps| HGe- Ge! |s- gs] _os- sh] OF Gel] Se Hel SIs Ie] MaI-KoL| Ket-%pr **°0G Tequieaony HEC WB] PE-HIS] Ge-HrS| HAV- GS} Ss- gw] Hee- 09} OP- GE] _Ge- FE] ev- Tel HuI-SHOL | HaI-MET pce et S5 7 08 Sequrenone ASV GB) HECHT) o-Heps | %GV- 9) se- 68] Os Br) oF gel Hee- re] Te- —| MLI-KOL| Mal-%Pr J Jequiesonl 8 BG's FOS BOSS 8 &6'bP LT'88 Hse S08 ALT IPS ST ** Yquour oy} Joy esBIeAy e- BW] SB- 1S) Me-Hrs] _ 9e- 9s] Fe vel gor-_ gh) oe as] or —| re-Her| HxI-Hor| Kort] oI-_ FT See et aes, “70g 1290390 : FOr | 8" TS) Ge Fe] Hew] HE- BB] GE-Heb| op gel Hee-Hew! Te 0%) SI-MOL] 9T-_ ST] SOT-HPT [1171717777727 1 OL t2q0wO B bs BB) HOV- S| Mps- FB] 9B- GS) OG —| OF |p| Mys-HOs| Le-319Gj; te- ov| sgi-Hot| gt-er| HO-MeL } 4090790 . LTE 68-83 8E°FS Sg'az 99°98 ong QE OS Kor o6°9T FS'OL Ie'PE «| * -Gyuour ey Joy aBes0ay 2 FO- 1S) | Se-HIG| HPS FB] 9V-HHQR| FexV- 2B] 9G- 99] Hus-Hoe| 2e-398| oe-_G@t| st-3or| gt- gx] Hat-HpL| TT “1108 saquiaydeg a SC~ GG | MEC~HIG | HPC FE) OB GB) e- 9B] HBG- BG] 9 GE] Le-HoB] ne-HOL| KaT-HOL| Ot-_ St] Me1- HEL | OF Joquiaydog Ge BE) ABV-HIS| W- FS] 9e- 9B| Seys- 98] GEG Ba} GE-Hpe| Le-H9s| Met- |r| XLI- Ot) gi-War! KeI-MEL| TE tequieydag 6L'SS 89° POPS SSTts HG LG ae 8998 H6L OAT HPL 34QT |" quour oy} Joy oser9VAY Se-46t | Hee Hw} W- Fe) 9s- GB] 9B- 9%) OF 89] ge-_ se} swe] os |r| Het-Mor| gi- pr} gt-2eT : RVG 8B | HEC HIS] G-_FE| Ge- FS) 9e- GB] gG- 4g] geHae] Ae 92] oe ar] Set-Hor| GI- FL] 9I-MbT Ave-HUs | HEC BB GS-PLPS|-GV--F]OB- -B] Us 99 Ge PE] Le- 9%| Her-KSL| gI-Mor| at- Pr|XMyT- atl 88's BGS BFS 89'S IPPs es"e9 %98 88'S PLT HLS SPT €9°S1. SC- HUW | Hee-_ ss| ge- FE] GV- FE! Ge- Fe] Ld Ga] Oe Ge x 9% | FESI-3491 | MOI-KGT| aI- FT S- 8@) Mee-Hee| ge- Fe] _ Ge- FE) Ge FE] Ls 9S] _ 9e-Hee| 9z-Hez| sI- zt] 9I-H%eL} GI- Fr HVE &B | HGV-HVw | SMebo- S| Hes- HB] MPS- sl OG GF | HyS-Hae| Mae- Ge] KAI- 9x] gr-H¥at| ai Fr 698T 898— 2981 998T 9st POST £98t 29st T98t 09st 6e8L seer “8a PN ‘ ¢ a “Panunquog—omsnpouL “OBBT OL BGs “NOX MAN NI qassoH vave 10 moMg—A AIAVL 235 STATISTICAL TABLES. 80°08 $€99°06 GBPS HB gs 9% BPS HB 3408 0% woos ft WWOUL ey Joy eBvieay @B-_ 1S | HMes- FS) SV- Ws | Hee-HES| _Te-HST| we gel] se-Hee| Hee-HMIS| Te-_ Ot} se- gt TS-HOL | Kbs- FB] «—-GV- «BB | HeGe-HeS | Kie- GL] ws- GB] sa-Hes| Hee-His| es-HET| sVe- ST Be-Hol | HeS- Fel SO- BB) MaV-HpS| HIS- EL} Lw- 9) A’s-MOs}] es- 1S) V-HEL| s- st SL°08 BFS 99°T% 09°F 0°08 % 99's Hs Kee 08 Te-HGL | 3e- Fe] SC-_ Bs] GS- FE] Te-HT| 9e- Fe] 9e- Vs Meo-3Is| Kee- Ve] Bs- ST B-0G | HPS- FS) «BB-7OT| «Ge «FU! BU- HOT a PBL Ge- «el «Ge HIS! MeV- Bs] -BB-CBT.: Pe Bs- 0G | KFV- Fo} Be-FH0B| V- -FS| HS-FHET| 9S- FS] GV- VW] SS- 1B] KeV- es] Ve- Be] Kee-HIS $699°T8 COPE He SES 99°T% 99°S% HEB 881s 88°8s 0 eels Be 08 | MEB- «FB «—BV-3L0T| Hpe-HeT| Ve-_ GT) «= 9S-| Hrs--s | wV-_sTw | Mew-_ ee] ee- ST | Mes-H ie ]* BZ-_«dS| SMHS-— «FS! «-Bs-3€0w| Hpe-Hea | Mee-MIS| LwW- 9B | Has-_ Ss) Ve-HL0s | Hee-HIe an Bs-_ «S| MoS FE] «BV-HOT|--GU-—-BB! «GV SB] AWS |-—- 9A-HGS| MIV- 08 | Hse-H08 Site QPS 13 0a"ss Kes HW 9% %6°08 80°86 88- | Mps-_ S| KIe-FLOT|- Fe- CE] GU- SBR] 9S- GB] wW-sCOnW KTV OS] _ SB-sCOdTK ee- 3%| Fa-3H4ee | HIs-S40s| -Fe- «GS GBV-C) «9-H «2S «GS| V- 0B) Kee- Te ws- -gs| «be-HEs| HTS-HOT] =Fe- GS] GB-—«CBB|--LS-—sGW|]—- BU-—s« GB || VV-—sd0V|— GB--—sdTB 09"es S168 | OTS 0s"es 88's OTLB 88°86 Or Ts 888 Fe- €@) Fe-Hes | HIS-H0T| FE- «S| _—S-_OBB «-BW-«s9S|]-—-GS--—«OMB | -eV- 0B | Hew ww “77 * Og qoreyy Fo- £@| _ be-Hes | MIS-H0B| «Fe- «GS| HEe-Hes| «s- 9%] IS 8s] _ Vs-_ 0s! Mew ww 777 OL Gouvyy Bs-_—sPS KFS FS] «BV- SCV] SCGB| SeGS-H4BB] Ge- «S| «—«S-—-8B| Kee-H0s| = Pe- GS) Be- ST] KW Of T yore GU'es GBF 09'T% 99°es 99° 8% 1s Ore HE Fe-_ 8S | KES- FS) B- TV] Pe- 8B Hee-Fee e- 98; ee- 9e| Hee-Hoe| Xpe- gs Pe-Gs | MbS- «FT| Bs TS] _Fe-_ &V] Fe- ES] GF 9%! EE Gs] e-_ 08] HPS gs Be-Kps | HES- FB) VS- 1S) Hbs-Hes) Gs- Fe; OF 8s} FE 08; es-HOs| Mbe- FEL SS GBS 918s £8°8S 99°22 See 96°0% 16's@ 99°61 Boop YOU 9q} Toy eSuIOAy FO-%ew| Hee- es] «sa- «dW | He ps-Hes| Mae-HPs| «Gs- 9%) Kbe- 0G) Se-_ 1s] Se-_ ss] i _ Sr] Kee-HKIS|"° ** og Azenune Pe-Nees | HSS GS] EA BB] «—-GS-GB | HEGU-HLFS) «-GB---9B)«-GE-—-—sOOG | UA-PMEGT| © 9V-3LSB |] _— 0G SLT | Hes-HTS |” ** of Saunuee Be-%bs | HES- GB) SB- V!| GB- &] 9s- Gs} OG 9%] Ge Te] Te GI] SV- Sel HIS GL) HBe-MIe|"~ ‘ ] Arenuee osst 6281 82st 22481 9281 G2st PLST e2st SL81 TAST Ozst ‘oye COFFEE, 236 "29°88 | PIES SPs 28°86 1g'TS Ta'9s 99°98 £9°SS 0g°Is 66'1@ GTS Se eestic ree Avok yy 1oy odeI0Ay FESS CL | SLEDS SB'Ss 8 KB 88°98 9% 8°08 18°6T 7 SOL Rr ane soer YWUOUL oY} Joy esuIEAY 8I- OL] | Pe-Fees | Mew- es] Fe-_ es} E@- 03] 98- Ge] se- Fe] FE Oe] Ie-_ 6T|Koe- es] se- 08 “70% Jequiaoaq O8- SI Mbs-HKys | Hees- GB) Mes-Hes | Ge- 0s] 2s- 93] gs- FB] BE- 08| MEI-%ST| ge- Ee] e-_08 “170 tequiasoq B- SE] Me-Hbs| SGs- gs] GS- VS] MeV- ET] 8s- 93) Be- Fe] Te- Be] HeI-KEL| oe-Kee| ws-H08 J Jequreoaq P8808 6L FS 18'S 99°%s GL'08 EELS 9% LLB - 6r GLP Boe ff testes Yquoul qj Joy asvIsAy O@- SE] se-Yeba| Hes- —| ee-_ Bs] Hes- GL] se- 9%] se- Fe] Hee-3Hae| HeI-KXet 08 TaqQuiesaoN Be 0S] GS-H S| MES-_ —| se-Hes| Mee- GL] 8e- 93! ge- Fe] Hee- 92! H6I-HET OF JaquIsAON Be 0G| «—- AU-HPS | HE-Hes| Se-Hes | Mes- GT | Ge L8| Be- bs] MSe- 90 | He1-H81 J tequiaaon HITS 096% 89°8s 16'8s 1% 88°8S & 80°93 Teor ere | SIs pot WIMOW eY4 Ioz aHeIVAY &@- 6T| _ Se-FHs| be-Hew| Hee-_ es! se- GL] 08 28) se-_ se] Xoa-Mee| Mer-M%er| Koe- Fe S@- Ts] Hrs Fe- 8Bl GU-34ES] -SS- «CGE| «(OS LB] eH AB| Moe- FS) MET-MSL| 9e- FS Be «S| HPS HB] HS- GV] Ga Hes] «SB- «GE| OE 98) Lees] Le- Ge] Os-MSL| Fe- zw we 89'8s LEFS QB'FS 08 w ore 88'S 6L6L 89'Te sgoe jo * WyUOUL oy} Joy osUIBAY §B- Ie | Hes-_ ee] ge-Hes| ge-Hes| ee- ot! se- 98] we-Kee! ge-HMpe| oes! ge- rw] ee- ert TUTTI! 03 tequtaydag G6" 1S) PE-Hes| se-eew| VV-HES| HIS GL] Be- 98} se-Hes| yeas} Te |t| es Te] we _ EL] 77 TIITITT! OF aaquieydeg Be TS] PE-HES] «—BU-Hes | «Gs-Hes| H0’- ST] Be- 9B) Se eB] AS GB] Ie Gr] Mes- GL] Be-Merl ccc T daquieydeg PEER TS FB FB 89°FS 89°6T KI YEG 88°FS 0% LTS YyUoU ay} Joy asuIeAy S@- TS| be-MES| 9e-%es| ge-Hes| H0s-_ St} se- 9%} se-Mee| 9e-Hpz| te- ot] Xee- 08 Se- TS] Fe-%Ee| Gs-%Es| _9s-_ Fe) Te-KST| M~w- Ge] se-deea| Hoe-Hee! 1e- GL] Mee- 08 Bee | HpS- S| Hes- Gs] Mas-Hps| «e-HKt| Kww- ss) se-Hee| pe-Hes| Te- 6r) se- st osst 6A8E 8£8T 2LSE 9281 G2st FL81 S2st S28E TAST o28st ‘aye, “panurquog —awmsnyour “OS8T. OL 8GgT ‘x40 XA MAN NI SaadoM VAVE fo HOIIG—A WITVL Comparative Monthly and Yearly Prices for Three Years. STATISTICAL TABLES. TABLE VI. 237 Braziu—Fair to Prime Cargoes, Average for the Month. MARACAIBO AND LAGUAYRA. Average for the Month. Month. 1880 1879 1878 1880 1879 1878 January ....0..- -..| $16 163g | $15 42 $17 87 | $15 331g | $15 17 $17 25 February . -| 15 50 14 791/ 17 08 16 04 15 584g | 16 33 March... 15 623g | 14 16 16 54 16 62 14 663g | 15 75 April 15 00 14 20% | 16 37 16 621g | 14 00 15 50 May........ 15 084g | 13 58. 17 00 15 00 14 00 15 83 June ......... 15 04 13 75 16 26 14 75 18 91 15 50. eV UL YE savers sivie sie sis 2's 15 50 14 00 16 12 14 954/, | 18 75 15 33 AUgUSt.....cc0 canes 15 83 14 04 16 70 15 621 13 75 14 91 Scptember.......... 16 163g | 14 70 17 16 15 871g | 18 %5 15 25 October ...... 0.2008 14 46 16 33 16 50 15 04 15 08 15 50 November ..... oeeee] 18 96 16 91 15 54 14 00 16 58 14 75 December ..........| 18 12 16 374g | 15 04 12 456), | 16 71 14 83 Average for year..| $15 12 $14 851g | $16 51 | $15 52%/,.| $14 70 $15 52 i St. Domrneo. JAVA. Average for the month. Average for the Month, Month. 1880 1879 1878 1880 1879 1878 J ADUEEY secre ne toe $13 371¢ | $11 00 $15 83 | $23 871g | $23 25 $22 16 February ....... 12 83% 10 %5 14 37 23°75 24 25 21 50 March........ 13 60 10 75 18 91 23 50 23 919g | 21 16 APTN versie sie Seige 13 00 10 %5 18 50 22 50 24 25 21 00 May.....sceeee 13 00 11 25 13 20 21 669g 24 25 21 25 JUNC ee iesaneves 12 419 11 25 13 62 20 75 24 25 21 66 HiG¥iceas wacvmee 12 25 11 25 13 33 20 66 24 25 22 50 August...........6.] 12 25 1L 25 12 75 21 831¢ 24 00 24 September.......... 12 25 11 25 12 83 22 00 23 58 24 37 October ............ 12 00 11 91 12 50 21 6696 24 50 23 58 November ...... .-| 11 50 14 50 12 50 20 338% 24 79 23 27 December. .........- 11 16% 14 41 11 % 18 331g 24 871g | 23 25 Average for year..| $12 631¢ | $11 69 | $13 84 | $22 627/12) $2414 | $22 48 TABLE VI. Receipts of Sundry Kinds of Coffee, not enumerated specifically, into the United States (Atlantic Coast), 1866 to 1880, inclusive. Year. Bags. Tong. Year. Bags. Tons. 8,401 633 121,479 | 6,869 16,859 | 1,052 40,977 | 2,567 16,666 | 1,024 47,707 | 3,221 22,423 | 1,178 71,567 | 4,877 16,569 791 64,884 | 4,246 37,675 | 2,387 98,669 | 7,239 78,852 | 4,702 109,172 | 6,967 70,605 | 4,489 Average, 15 years (1866 to 1880)...........csee enon 54,500 bags, 3,486 tons. Average, 10 years (1871 to 1880)..........eeseeeeee 73,659 “ 4,751 “ 238 COFFEE. TABLE VIII. Circular Estimating and Proclaiming, in United States Money of Account, the Values of the Standard Coins in Circulation of the Various Nations of the World. & 1881. DEPARTMENT No. 1. TREASURY DEPARTMENT, Secretary's Office. BuREAU OF THE MINT, WasHInetTon, D. C., January 1, 1881. Hon. Joun SHERMAN, Secretary of the Treasury : S1n—In pursuance of the provisions of Section 8,564 of the Revised Statutes of the United States, I have estimated the values of the standard coins in circulation of the various nations of the world, and submit the same in the accompanying table. Very respectfully, a Horatio C, Burcuaxd, Director of the Mint. Value in Country. Monetary Unit, Standard. U.S. Standard Coin. Money. Austria........06- Florin 40.7% Belgium .. Franc 19.38 | 5, 10, and 20 francs, Bolivia ... Boliviano... €2.3 | Boliviano, .| Milreis of 100! 54.6 Dollar Gold........... $1 00 Peso Gold and silver, 91.2 | Condor, doubloon, and escudo. Peso ...| Gold and silver, 93.2 | "19, 4.24, 8, and 1 doubloon, Denmark. Crown aoe] GO. cc acenwass 26.8 | 10 and 20 crowns, Ecuador.. Peso. .| Silver... sy &2.3. | Peso. Fegypt .. Piaster | Gold... .... 6... 04.9 | 5, 10, 25, 60, and 100 piasters. France . .| Franc Gold and silver. 19.8 | 5, 10, and 20 francs. Great Britain .| Pound sterling....| Gold.......-... 4 £6.64 | 34 sovereign and sovereign. Greece ...| Drachma ......... Gold and silver. 19,3 | 5,10, 20, 50, and 100 drachmas. German Empire .. 7 23.8 | 5, 10, and 20 marks. India siete 39 Italy . ‘ 19.3 | 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 lire. Japan...... deigieinidll MOI: oh id eyereraibie's 5 i 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 yen, gold, and silver yen. Liberia. Mexico. Peso or dollar, 5, 10, 25, and 50 centavos, Netherlands Florin ws Norway .| Crown ‘ a 10 and 20 crowns. Peru... «| Sol i Sol. Portugal .. | Milreis of 1000 reis. 2, 5, and 10 milreis, Tussia ........-.. Rouble of 100 co- 50 POGKB cia ieusierses Silver.......... 65.8 | 4, 3, and 1 rouble. Sandwich Islands.| Dollar ............ Gold.......-... 100 Spain ........ .--.| Peseta of 100 cen- times........... Gold and silver. 19.3 | 5, 10, 20, 59, and 100 pesetas. Sweden .......... Crown,..........- Gold 5555 -scisseavsss 26.8 | 10 and 20 crowns. : Switzerland ...... TANG: ives wees sa Gold and silver 19.38 | 5, 10, and 20 francs, Tripoli ......... ..| Mahbub of 20 pias- eee cisiseweniee sinsie Pg Sieasicrele aaa 4.3 . OY ia eexnsnen HASLER ca vena seve| Gold...... seades y 5, 2 i \. eee ici actnee 04.4 | 25, 50,100, 250, and 500 piasters Colombia....... Peso,...... éadiee a] BilV eR eae siece 82.38 | Peso. Venezuela........| Bolivar........... Gold and silver, 19.3 | 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 Bolivar. TREASURY DEPARTMENT, WASHINGTON, D. C., January 1, 1881. The foregoing estimation, made by the Director of the Mint, of the value of the foreign coins above mentioned, I hereby proclaim to be the values of such coins expressed in the money of account of the United States, and to be taken in estimating the valnes of all foreign merchandise, made out in any of said currencies, imported on or after January 1, 1881. JOHN SHERMAN, Secretary of the Treasury. 239 STATISTICAL TABLES. “post ‘TT Aine ‘egg “souSty fazer ‘LT Jequesaq, ‘% OT soaoy : uorsuodsns Jo areas woequeAes OY} SULINp ysoySty puy yseor]—"ALON S801 4 001] F40OL-*4 OOT| SEONT-*€ OOT| 74 LOL- HOOT | 5001-74 O0T| 26001-F¥00T| <00T-2€001] TOT-% 00t|FTOT-Hool|*tor-Xoot! eor-2oo1\*eo1-% Tor HYeor-H toll“ sust MLOI-HVOT|% SOL-H#VOT| FC SO0T-HVOL | eGOI-HVOL| FOT-24801| §¢904-22e01| 4901-24 SOL | %<9OT-MHOL| %¢L0T- 2 90T| ZL01-MPOL| Sa0t-F POL! XOUT-%< POT *£LOT-FESOL| ** LAST. QHI- LOT] GOT LOT) 4OTI-480T HETI-2z901|%) HLOG TAT: |) calles, fo| weee ein vtna: || Mecrateana ve: | beteuset 3,800 GD: |i Sith cace eee | caste nee il, kee Stir asaie 3) helper arslae IL) Satneeee ome. | Commeteaine New Haven, Conn,............ceccsees 319 81 663 79 629 99 276,751 56,295 4,197 T1898: ) Cnrsweisswg | Steeadces 810 293 622 168: -ceGasttaae. |Aveeases.es 200 10 New London, Conn......... ......... T11 LOD cccasseara ais Ih teteisteteterde fh iele sae mest eaaineelees 53,413 12,243 538,555 9, 185 22,420 Bj004:|" cerovegeise-cee: |\eeeceee, |) Gaeaimitewsce, | amesieeiers 137 29 13,050 2,117 New Orleans, haw... iii...c05's 6 wee wees 33,072,914 | 3,108,250 | 25,417,771 | 3,166,361 | 31,188,572 | 4,614,329 | 21,423,065 | 4,031,782 27,602, 142 4,412, 958 | 26, 721. ,067 | 4, 459, 210 24,383,860 | 3,985,083 | 30,065,789 | 5,141,835 | 22,183,779 | 2,753,287 | 31,048,924 | 4,010,166 New York, N. Y........... eeeevecsees| 146,932,411 14, 525, 745 168,601,128 | 21,798,786 | 161,411,478 | 24,468,685 | 172,595,005 | 33,485,559 180; 452, 596 29,048" 121 203,7 782, 736 34) 621/236 | 201,472,415 32) ,667, 300 191,951,185 | 31,670,423 | 259,228,451 32) 739,381 | 816,041,921 | 43,512,094 Oregons OLrew «ccd .cawa wan Seale oe eaaie TO, U4 T6425) 2 ives aces |) wee eeaae a || Ueeeeee coscull wee once ||) aisaxaweresll Uacesewe eal \ovwaadyasa fl @emesaneerli sadas teen oememenes 1,096 Us| Gece | eee Ramlico, N.C. caw sees cial 4 ||| Cxeweeeue | aietasave:|\ seesianese | easdeesad | weatanoces (ba enees mel Seedesasin |ipaeeeesas: Lhnoiesesre Pagescieies | | ADC MUD | asec dsc ll Qoicewceel! samosnated|ancvmees Paso del Norte, Tex. , and New Mexico. . 2,695 400 146 B00}. ATR AROO I BBS Cea tessaiine | emietweree | coemaeiaeiare | iets ieee Passamaquoddy, Me............ ele w| eisleayeceiaarece 7,470 VGA W eccreuidts co esatsis[ seldeusings ae || mieraadetee: |! reclame ol || ced wenaieazerete! |) aeerered eters wisi gisressuacsre: [ash Seweare se Pearl River, Miss............. CAN SERS | Re Se eeeeS 68,225 11,448 26,0738) OjOOT eecetears Sie | mace |) oeeeewenece |) sven Seas 4,500 900 Pensacola, Fla..........cccceueeeeces 20H Be)! edare alate hcrsiesdtieve-ares | iveoieeaeeades | uada-sied@ean| -seaweaceaa lp oletlectegaer (ewealelv cence 961 17,772 3,044 Perth Amboy, N. J... .. 0... cece eee 6,395,114 pO | ces Souarera Siar! | Sa Retsieven fs Loneieiacep neds: [iteaiersine acai lt eset carsales iad airers eo|| ceeiisigislcledtan| soeneutemieal | = ba cea vic we [nea siseecin | Bie Cegaaast gaesweutestl | Sashes | weloesees Philadelphia, Passos ss sivid Xie 8Hei60000 5, 792,915 578,400 38,483,555 3,328,587 669,105 8,405,758 605,314 2, 862,105 433,403 3,866,588 688,031 8,512,645 630,161 Portland and Falmouth, Me...........) ce. cece | cee eee eee 4,690 790 138 372 MOA eae ee eaenall pase sews e 2,561 501 193 49 Providence, Ra Live scisesc gus hae we dans T27 65 29,186 185,268 39,773 8,050 1,482 82,383 16,274 1,000 154.) sasacavoss sierra ace Puget Sound, Wash. Ter.............. 11,939 1,563 4,955 8,363 VT | aseceseass eeants 300 69))) sicsteeaacs | ae serene. 50 20 Richmond, V8 syecc sv schslg: ee wees Seielh Gata ce lane |lComaaeeane | hulsdecins 414,403 83,602 | 2,193,145 | 366,743 | 2,358,150 | 382,661 924,000 136,888 953,010] 172,916 Salem and Beverly, Mass,............. 1,920 QOS vans cet dae 2,569 AOL sexcnexd, wae | ehoiatns s| kanitanee || Seesee ees 280 DS} -fssevacsierevecevsce aie sieistocacans Paluvia,. VOX. wisi csicw see Fee nse eeeas 652 154 62730) - BBO), csaaisiewaie’e | ivtegi seat | Gakuen: | cawkeeedtl|-oebsvewsaa'| betsienenl gewsee cedar l oda sa desea l| Zasaveteseel saeweaes 3,818 T44 San Diego; Cal ooo 3 is sisinsjcleeeea weacebed|, nigans sae | exemse cos. | aderceeees aes siyeee. | aikeezeacee || weaeerese | Kaauaeneee | eamsancse Pf conacs cecae ll ibs tasers 580 99] eee sno vee ly Si eeseaiad | Cow adas sear |--ernweeeaae San Francisco, Cal ............. ee cece 11,392,825 | 1,270,245 | 10,957,190 | 1,852;216 | 12,741,931 814, 13,171,063 | 2,568,390 | 13,273,090 | 2,148,237 8,198,043 | 1,422,543 | 15,950,574 | 2,721,511] 14,591,259 | 2,605,244 117, 20,825,212 831, Savannah, Ga. ccccchew Rew eeaweass 2,142,775 213,807 1,031,752 133,557 2,197,921 323,184 1, 625.811 293,650 3,226,887 539, 1533 1,818,823 298,993 2,286,322 405,601 2,416,130 400,121 3,056,380 "348,924 2,572,438 315,451 St; JOHNS oH as sic essieisiwieuxvek evigewiall Meaate Soteweeeic Ie Sweats ell eee 8S ddaG! |e aweleR eed. il Moeeesaveroda, pmeremee re: It dartenreteee ll meaieaqes sy llowlessaesaa ’ Meda eel] 6k tenwacte |oeeeeedeee || abetheswie |