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MANN LIBRARY New York STATE COLLEGES OF AGRICULTURE AND HoME ECONOMICS AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY Cornell University Library QH 68.158G wit § and tropical aquarium Siz apd aas ‘suo]pes gg ‘Ajordro ‘sayoul gg ‘YyydueT WOIdWOOY ONINNIMAZING ANIL-ad dH, Goldfish Varieties and Tropical Aquarium Fishes A Complete Guide to Aquaria and Related Subjects BY WILLIAM T. INNES FORMER PRESIDENT OF THE AQUARIUM SOCIETY OF PHILADELPHIA INNES & SONS Publishers PHILADELPHIA, U.S.A. fl q el ‘ eae i 4 Vl ee bS CopyriGHTED By INNES & Sons 1917 Rights of Reproduction and Translation Reserved CONTENTS PaGE AUTHOR'S: PREFACE acca tices dessin a Se ea iN eas 4 CHAPTER ONE: The Freshwater Aquarium ................ 5 “Two: Goldiish Vatistles sinevvuxeverwanwrevaniess 19 se THREE: Judging Goldfish Competitions ............ 39 " Four: Propagation of the Goldfish ................ 47 4 Five: Wholesale Breeding .................045. 61 - SIx: Some Hardy Native Freshwater Fishes.... 69 % SEVEN: Alphabetical List of Aquarium Fishes, Their Breeding Habits, Care, Etc. .«............ 83 © EIGHT: Tropical, Aquaria: cca gaa a eae ees 101 x NINE: Marine Aduatia gicccas ati geeriedae esac 109 S TEN: Terraria and Aqua-Terraria ............... 119 t ELEVEN: Fishfoods'iyss Savina a aw mace 127 ie TWELVE: The Microscope in Aquarium Work........ 139 - THIRTEEN: Diseases and Their Treatment ............. 143 = FourtEEN: Enemies of Aquarium Fishes ............. 155 S FIFTEEN : Plants for the Aquarium and Pond ........ 163 “ Sixteen: Photographing Fishes .................... 205 a SEVENTEEN: Construction of Aquaria, Tanks, Etc. ....... 211 = EIGHTEEN: Aquarium Appliances .................0.. 227 : NINETEEN: Forty Don'ts .......... 0000 e cece eee ees 235 List of Illustrations and Their Sources ...........-.. 00sec eee eee 238 BibNGsraphy ces4 240s canara ee ees eees ime enverededEeees § 242 hee Pyle aes ea ea ee ee eee 244 AUTHOR’S PREFACE There is perhaps no other means of bringing so complete a bit of Nature into our very homes as that afforded by the aquarium. Here we have opportunity for the student, the artist, the scientist and for those who simply love pets. Modern research, by the discovery of a few simple principles, has enabled us to absolutely reproduce the conditions of aquatic Nature, so that now we may have, at first hand, an intimate knowledge of much of that mysterious life of the water-world. Through the glass of the aquarium we have a window where that which we see is only limited by our own capacity for observation. Although interest in aquaria has undergone a great awakening in the past few years, the public in general is still ignorant of the correct prin- ciples of aquarium management, and of the wonderful accomplishments of the breeders of fancy fishes. In addition to the extraordinary goldfish forms there are now available for our purposes over 300 other kinds of aquarium fishes. These, with other aquatic animals and a wide range of plants give us a great wealth of material from which to choose. It is the aim of the author and the publishers to present in simple yet comprehensive form a practical digest of all available information on the subject. This, it is hoped, will be of real value to the intelligent aquarist and at the same time give the general public a clearer idea of possibilities under proper management, so that an aquarium will no longer be merely something which must be perpetually re-stocked with fishes, but an endless source of pleasant and profitable observation. The illustrations used are, in nearly all cases, either drawn or photo- graphed from life, thus establishing records which should be of value for present or future reference. In the preparation of this volume the author has received valued assistance from leading specialists, breeders and general experts including the distinguished head of the United States Bureau of Fisheries, Dr. Hugh M. Smith. Special acknowledgment for generous co-operation is tendered Dr. E. Bade, Mr. Franklin Barrett, Dr. Herman Burgin, Mr. Wm. H. De Nyse, Mr. Richard Dorn, Mr. Henry W. Fowler, Mr. Joseph Froelich, Mr. Frank J. Myers, Mr. Wm. L. Paullin, Mr. W. A. Poyser, Mr. Fred. Schaefer, Dr. C. H. Townsend and Mr. Charles E. Visel. Mr. W. L. Brind should receive credit for his assistance in the preparation of the list of Exotic Fishes, his knowledge and specialized technique as a translator proving of particular value. Chapter One The Freshwater Aquarium 6 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND AQUARIUM MANAGEMENT The principles involved in successful aquarium management are really simple, and if applied success is bound to follow. The common goldfish is a very hardy pet, and with proper handling should live from ten to twenty years. Yet we hear of numerous failures, and there are many who would like to keep an aquarium but refrain from doing so because of two erroneous ideas: first, that goldfish are delicate; second, that an aquarium requires frequent cleaning. The main causes for failure, in the order of their importance, are: Overcrowding Overfeeding Sudden temperature changes Lack of proper plant life Insufficient lighting, Overcrowding. A great many unscrupulous and_ short-sighted dealers, in order to increase sales, recommend the use of more fish than should properly be put into an aquarium of given size. The beginner also wishes to have as many fishes as possible, so that this is one of the greatest difficulties to overcome. The proper rule is this: ONE INCH OF FISH TO ONE GALLON OF WATER. That is, in a ten-gallon aquarium of the usual oblong shape, well planted and in a good light, one could ‘successfully keep ten one-inch fish, or five two-inch or two five-inch fish. Successful aquarists adhere to this rule, and for some of the fancy and more delicate varieties, even more water per fish is allowed. The beginner will do well to do likewise and disregard all advice to the contrary. If already stocked with too many fish, some of them should be disposed of or a larger aquarium secured. Should the fish get into poor condition from overcrowding it will be difficult to save any of them. Gasping. When the fishes persist in coming to the top and gasping air, it is usually a sign that they are overcrowded or that the water has become bad from some kind of decomposition. The trouble should be quickly found and remedied before the fish become seriously affected or perhaps suffocate. A partial change of water or the removal of some of the fish will usually improve matters. Sometimes the condition is pro- duced by a dead snail or mussel, or again from the decomposition of uneaten food. Overfeeding. Many people kill their fish by kindness. Whenever the fish seem hungry they are fed. This is a very great mistake. In TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES x Nature the food is scarce and difficult to get. Therefore the fish have to exercise themselves in procuring it. In the small confines and artificial conditions of the household aquarium, less food can be properly digested, for fishes, like men, suffer from indigestion, but with quicker and more fatal results. Fish should never, on any account be fed more than will be consumed at once. (This does not apply in raising young fish.) If any food is left after five minutes, they have been overfed and the surplus should be removed with a dip-tube. (See Chapter on Aquarium Appli- ances.) In summer or at any time when the water is at 60 degrees or higher, it is allowable to feed daily. Should the water range from 55 degrees to 60 degrees, every other day is sufficient, and when it is from 40 degrees to 55 degrees, feedings separated by about three to six days, will keep them in good condition. An exact scale is difficult to establish, partly because fish, under one year of age, can assimilate more food than old ones, and partly because the temperature in an aquarium varies at different hours in the day. The foregoing scale will give a very good working basis, to be followed with a certain amount of personal judg- ment. Let it be said there is practically no danger of starving a fish, the errors being almost altogether on the other side. A correspondent once wrote the author that she kept a fish for seventeen years, and in that time had fed it on rice wafers once a week only. The matter of feeding fish is a difficult point to correctly impress on the mind of the general public. When the fish swim coaxingly to the near side of the aquarium it is a great temptation to feed them whether it is their meal time or not, but those who love their pets will do them a far greater kindness by depriving them until the usual feeding hour. Changing the Water. If for any reason it becomes necessary to change the water, there is one very important thing to keep in mind— do not subject the fishes to any sudden change of temperature, either higher or lower. This is one of the most frequent causes of sickness and eventual death. With the foregoing conditions carefully observed and carried out there should be no need to change water except at rare intervals, when the aquarium gets dingy looking or overcrowded with plants. Experienced aquarists replant about once a year, occasionally adding water to make up for evaporation. The fish are stimulated and probably benefited by changing a small part of the water every few days. From one-fifth to one-tenth of the total volume should be sufficient. If the aquarium is in proper condition and not overcrowded, even this slight changing of water is not necessary. However, it can do no harm and may do good. In ‘:ases of overcrowding, a partial change of water should be made 8 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND daily, the amount depending on the degree of overcrowding. Here, again, a little personal judgment should come into play. A sprinkling pot is excellent for adding water to the aquarium. The small streams oxygenate the water well and do not disturb the contents of the aquarium. If running water is used, a very tiny stream will be sufficient. Fish used to running water when placed in still water should at first be given ample room. Plant Life. Fish live by absorbing oxygen, and they give off carbon dioxide as the waste product of their chemical life. Plants, under the influence of light, do the exact opposite, so that what is poison to one is life to the other. This explains why healthy plants are so desirable, and accounts for the phrase “balanced aquarium,” because there is a self- maintaining interchange established. Still water takes up a certain amount of oxygen from the air. The fishes, however, consume more oxygen than can be supplied in this manner, and if oxygen-liberating plants are not used the fishes become restless, come to the surface to breathe the air, and may finally die of suffocation unless the water is changed. The term “balanced aquarium” is not accurately descriptive, as an exact balance is never maintained. In practise we always endeavor to have the oxygenating element the more active, since any excess of oxygen goes off harmlessly into the air, while an excess of the poisonous carbon dioxide cannot be quickly taken up by the plant life. A more correct term might be “reciprocating aquarium.” Aquarium Plants. Different plants have varying powers of pro- ducing oxygen. It is therefore well to bear this in mind when making a selection for planting. Purely ornamental plants are desirable only after a fully sufficient quantity of the oxygen-producers have been provided. In the order of their oxygenating powers we would name, Anacharis, Vallisneria, ‘Sagittaria, Nitella, Bacopia, Fontinalis, Potamogeton, Ludwigia and others, which will be more fully described later. Light. As just stated, plants require light in order to do their work. Select for the aquarium a place close to a window with a good, strong light, preferably one where it will get about two hours of direct sun a day. In hot weather one should be careful not to overheat a small aqua- rium in the sun. A range of between 50 and 75 degrees F. is safe. Green water is caused by the presence of a microscopic form of vege- table life suspended in the water. Their growth is usually promoted by a combination of too much direct sunlight and a large number of fish in the aquarium. There are several ways of clearing the water. First change it, add a few fresh-water mussels, cut down the light by use of tisst.e paper * TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 9 or other means, take some fish out of the aquarium. To clear the water chemically, add one grain by weight of permanganate of potash (dis- solved) to each gallon of aquarium water. This will turn the water first a lavender, and then a brownish color for a few days, after which it will clear up. Unless the original conditions are changed, however, the water will soon again become green. Before using this chemical remove all snails and mussels. Goldfish can withstand the strength of the solution recommended, and probably be benefitted if suffering from any form of fungus. (See Chapter on Diseases.) Other fishes do not stand this chemical so well. Green water, while unsightly, is not unwholesome. On the contrary, a sick fish is often cured by being transferred to a tank of green water. Live daphnia will clear water in a few days. ; How to Know When the Fishes are Sick. The first signal of distress in most fish is the drooping of the dorsal (back) fin. This fin should be carried stiff and upright. When the fish is sick its movements are sluggish and it often seeks a quiet corner in which to hide. In some of the fancy varieties the dorsal fin is so overdeveloped that the fish even in health has not sufficient strength to hold it erect. When such fish are ill their fins become more or less stiff, losing flexibility. Fins should be clear and clean-cut. When they become thick-looking, opaque, lined with red veins, overcast with red, blooshot at base of fins, or ragged and split, the fish is in need of attention. (See Chapter on Diseases.) Another sign of poor condition is thinness of the body. The excrement of fishes in health is usually of a dark color. When it is pale, dotted with gas bubbles, and of slimy appearance, the fish is apt to be out of condition. Sick Fishes. It is always safer to remove an affected fish from its fellows. If the trouble is a contagious one, the aquarium or tank should be thoroughly disinfected, not overlooking the plants in this matter. For all practical purposes they can be sterilized by placing for one hour in a permanganate of potassium solution, 3 grains by weight to the gallon of water. Satisfactory results will also be given by dipping plants for a few moments in concentrated lime water. Either of these methods should be applied to all new plants introduced into the aquarium, especially those collected from the wild, or from aquaria of doubtful condition. In case of an aquarium becoming contaminated it can be disinfected by dissolving in it permanganate of potash to the strength already indicated, allowing it to stand from two to three hours, first removing all mussels, snails and fishes. In changing back to clear water again it wiJl do no harm if a little of the permanganate solution remains. Unless newly acquired fishes come from a source beyond suspicion it is a grave risk to introduce them at once into an established aquarium of healthy fish. They should first be quarantined and carefully observed 10 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND for about two weeks, this being particularly true of imported goldfishes. They may already be inoculated with diseases only in process of incu- bation, but which will nevertheless develop. Chemical Depletion of Water. Constant absorption of minerals from the water by plants and fishes makes a condition which should be provided for. This can be done by the occasional addition of salts. Make a mixture of three parts of evaporated sea salt (Turk’s Island Salt), and one part Epsom salts. About once in two or three weeks a level teaspoon- full to 20 gallons of water will prove beneficial. Usually the fishes will greedily swallow these salts as they sink to the bottom, which acts as a mild cathartic with them. : The decomposition of plants, etc., sets up an acid condition in the aquarium, which is not good for the fish and which causes most of the crumbling noticed on the shells of snails. Ten drops of lime water to the gallon of aquarium water will neutralize any ordinary acid condition, but a better method is to keep a small piece of Plaster of Paris in the aquarium. In dissolving, it neutralizes the acid, but as it only dissolves under acid conditions, there is no danger of getting the water too alkaline. If the Plaster of Paris dissolves quickly it is a sign of pronounced acid condi- tion. We would call two weeks a short time in which to dissolve a piece half the size of a shellbark in a 20-gallon aquarium. Pieces of gypsum will perform the same function, but more slowly. Pieces of coral, sea-shells, etc., look out of place in a fresh-water aquarium, and many of them are sufficiently rough to injure the fishes if they chance to be knocked against them. A Word to Beginners. It is much the better plan to start with a few fishes of the hardier varieties until the rudiments of aquarium keeping are well understood. If one can keep common goldfishes in perfect health and experience practically no losses, then it is time to branch out into the more varied and interesting breeds. Some beginners, having more enthu- siasm than experience, lose valuable fishes at the start and turn away in disgust from a fancy that, if properly understood, would have afforded them many hours of pleasant recreation. Aeration. In Nature there is always sufficient plants or air surface to keep the fish well supplied with oxygen, but in the aqua- rium, particularly on dark days when the plants give off little oxygen, it is impossible to keep the fish from coming to the surface without the help of some artificial means. This is best accomplished by means of com- Fic. 1. Air Pump pressed air liberated at the bottom of the TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 11 aquarium. As the air passes through the water there is sufficient oxygen absorbed to keep the fish always in good condition. This is also very helpful to the fish at night. There are many varieties of pumps that can be used for this purpose, but the cheapest and most satisfactory are those which are operated by water power. The type known as “beer pumps” are the best. These oper- ate on a very simple principle, having a minimum of working parts and therefore little to get out or order. Air is forced out of an air-chamber by the entrance of water. When the air is all expelled, an internal float stops the supply of water and starts a siphon working which empties the pump preparatory to the next filling. As this operation takes about a minute it is advisable to have a small storage tank for the air to pass through in order to equalize the flow. A very small stream of air run- ning through the aquarium will keep the water sweet even though the aquarium is somewhat overcrowded. Overcrowding, however, is not to be encouraged at any time. The air should be liberated in as small bubbles as possible. Libera- tors are made especially for this purpose, but a good home-made plan is to place a piece of bass wood or other open grained wood in the end of a tube to force the air through it. In case the liberator becomes clogged up, allow it to dry out for a day or two. An air pump may also be used to operate a filter for the aquarium or to make a fountain without the use of water other than that already in the aquarium. (See Chapter on Aquarium Appliances.) Scavengers. Nature has supplied us with means of getting rid of most of the harmful offal and decomposition in the aquarium. These con- To 0 Fic. 2. African Fic. 3. Japanese Fic. 4. Red Ramshorn THe THREE Best FRESHWATER AQUARIUM SNAILS (Life size) sist largely of those species of snails that do not attack the plants. Among the best known, most satisfactory and easily obtained are the large Japan- ese snails (Viviparous malleatus), the so-called African paper shelled 12 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND snail (Lymnaea auricularia) and the red variety of the European Rams- horn Snail (Planorbis corneous). These are all active in eating vegetable growth from the glass or particles of food which the fish have not taken, and in no case will they injure any of the aquarium plants. The Japanese snails are very interesting in that they bring forth fully developed young about the size of a pea. These snails are male and female, but a female once impregnated seems, like a queen bee, to remain fertile for the remainder of her life. The right horn of the male is somewhat the longer, this serving a sexual purpose. These snails are quite long-lived and grow to the size of a large walnut. Another snail resembling the Japanese species is the Potomac snail. This has two brown stripes on a horn- colored background running with the spiral. It is quite attractive and is frequently sold as the Japanese snail, but it is sluggish and should not be crossed with the Japanese. The latter can be identified by the slightly raised keels showing on the last spiral. The paper shelled snail is very prettily marked with brown spots on a horn-colored background, and is an extremely rapid breeder, but is of short life. The young hatching from the spawn of these snails make a food regarded by the fish as a delicacy, as is evidenced by the fact that none of these snails ever get beyond the early stages of development if kept among the fish. It is therefore apparent that to breed these snails successfully they need to be kept by themselves until the young are about half grown. With the Japanese snails no such precaution is necessary, as the young are fur- nished with a fairly hard ‘shell at the time they emerge. The European Red or Coral Snail (Planorbis corneous) is a recent introduction and is unique on account of the bright red coral color of the body. When seen in the sunlight this snail is quite an added attrac- tion to the appearance to an artistic aquarium, and is an active worker. The snail is easily bred if the young are kept away from fish. In breed- ing snails in small aquara or receptacles it is desirable to give them some extra food. Rice wafers, powdered fish food of almost any variety, let- tuce leaves dried and powdered, boiled catmeal or raw cream of wheat will serve the purpose. Eggs are deposited on plants and glass, and do best at from 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. , To those interested in identifying species of native snails we would recommend a very excellent work published by the State Department of Public Education at Albany, N. Y., entitled “A Monograph on the Snails of New York State,” by H. A. Pilsbry. The book is profusely illustrated in color and to all practical purposes covers the species east of the Rockies. The frog tadpole has been used by many as an aquarium scavenger, but its value is of considerable doubt. They dash about the aquarium TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 13 in an aimless manner, keeping the water stirred up and the natural sedi- ment agitated. Furthermore, they soon learn to eat fish food and, after that step in education, they refuse to consume the less desirable particles found in an aquarium occupied by fish. Another scavenger is the fresh water mussel. The chief value of the mussel is to keep down the vegetable growth which causes aquarium water to turn green. Mussels are equipped with a sort of siphon arrangement, Fic. 5. FRESHWATER MussEL, SHOWING WaTeER INTAKE AND OuTLeT; ALso “Foot” Wits Wuicu Tuey Burrow AND TRAVEL by which they suck in water in one opening and eject it from another. In the few moments which they hold the water they extract from it the floating vegetable organisms. Two or three mussels should keep a ten- gallon aquarium free of green water. Care should be taken to occas- ionally see whether the mussels are living, as they decompose very rapidly and spoil the aquarium water. This can be done by tapping lightly on the shell and seeing whether they respond by closing. A curious but useful scavenger is an eel-like fish called the Weather- fish. Varieties are native to Europe and Asia. They are freely imported Fic. 6. THe WEATHERFISH (Cobitis fossilis) and inexpensive. When not scouring the aquarium bottom for bits of decomposing matter, they sometimes burrow into the sand, leaving only the head exposed, producing a quaint appearance. In their special occu- pation as scavengers they employ a method which is both effectual and interesting. The dirt and top sand are taken in the mouth and rapidly shot out through the gills. Any particle of food considered edible is automatically separated from the bulk of the dirt and swallowed. i GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND Another scavenger fish is the Sacchobranchus fossilis. This fish has a head like a catfish and an elongated body like an eel. Both of these scavengers are harmless to other fish, but should not be used when over five inches long as they stir up the water too much. Goldfish keep the sand loose and in good condition by picking it up in their mouths, but most other aquarium fishes do not touch it, which allows it to cake and become permanently dirty. The Weather-fish is most excellent to introduce with such fishes, even a single small one keeping the sand in a large aquarium loose on the top. Aquarium Covers. It is a popular idea that a free access of air to the aquarium is essential to the welfare of the fishes, but this is not so, particularly if there is a liberal plant growth. A glass cover, raised about a quarter inch, promotes a more luxuriant growth of plants, keeps the surface of the water free of dust or bubbles, prevents objects from acci- dentally falling in the aquarium, keeps the fishes from leaping out and our friend the cat from fishing in. Wire gauze, properly secured, will serve the latter purposes. With tropical fishes the glass cover should rest directly on the aqua- rium or jar, with no intervening space. This keeps the water a few degrees warmer. Furthermore, there are a number of tropical fishes which can leap through a very small opening. This they are most apt to do when newly placed in an aquarium or otherwise disturbed. Our wild native fishes have an increased tendency to leap as the breeding sea- son approaches, this characteristic being shared in by the single-tail gold- fish. PLANTING Planting is usually done directly in the sand or grit. Some aquarists prefer planting in miniature pots so that when it is desired to clean the aquarium it will not be necessary to uproot the plants. In potting plants in this manner a few pebbles should be placed in the bottom of the pot and then a layer of soil, preferably from the bottom of a pond. Spread the roots well into the soil and then cover with about one-half inch of sand, so that the earth cannot become free and cloud the aquarium water. As a rule, it is not advisable to use any soil in planting the aquarium itself, The first operation in planting an aquarium is to see that the sand or grit is thoroughly clean. This can only be brought about by a long and thorough washing. After the water runs clear from the sand, spread the bottom of the aquarium to a depth of, say, half an inch. Next fill with about two inches of water. Now take the roots of Sagittaria, TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 15 Vallisneria, or other rooted plants, and spread them out well. (See chapter on Plants.) After the proper arrangement of plants is made, add from an inch to two inches of sand and pebbles, being careful not to completely cover any of the leaves. Now fill the aquarium and with a slender stick lift up any leaves which have been held down by the sand. After the leaves have been brought into an upright position, take hold of them and pull upwards until the crown of the plant comes just to the surface of the sand. Aquatic plants with crowns seem to do better if the crown is not quite covered. The crown is the point from which the leaves put out. Care should be taken in planting not to allow the leaves to become even partially dry. This can be accomplished by frequent sprinkling, and the work should be completed as rapidly as possible. Bunches of Cabomba, Anacharis and other plants, can be added last. These need to be weighted down with bits of lead or tin wire. In filling the aquarium it is a good plan to place a piece of paper in the center of the aquarium and let the water strike on this. By this method the plants will not be seriously disturbed. The use of a watering pot for filling will also prevent any serious disturbance of the planting. The aquarium should be allowed to stand at least a day before the fish are introduced; but a week would be better, so that the plants may become active in time to be of real use to the fish. The use of pebbles only in the bottom of an aquarium is not to be recommended, because particles of food may fall between the stones where neither the fish nor snails can reach them, and the decomposition thus set up is liable to foul the water. Testing Aquaria. Before putting plants or sand in the aquarium it is well to test its tightness. More often than not the larger sizes leak after removing or standing dry. These leaks can usually be corrected in a few days by filling with very muddy water, stirring it occasionally. Fish Globes. Ignorance is responsible for most barbarity, and one of the commonest forms of both is the keeping of fishes in globes. The globe is in every way opposed to the correct principles of aquarium- keeping. When it is filled, the air surface of the water is extremely small in proportion to the bulk of water. The convex form acts as a lens to perpetually focus light into the eyes of the fish. Even the side light of a straight-side aquarium is known to be less desirable than top-lighting in an opaque tank. What then must be the effect of a focused side-light? A proper plant growth in a small globe is almost impossible. All of these evils are multiplied by the apparently universal over-crowding in these 16 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND little prisons, and by the frequent pollutions of the water by overfeeding. As these globes are the cheapest form of aquarium, it seems as though they are destined to remain with us, but the public could be educated in the rudiments of handling them—not to overcrowd nor overfeed, nor fill to the top, nor stand in the summer sun; and to establish growing plants. If this point can be reached it is a step to the abandonment of the “‘globe”’ for a real aquarium, where the chances of success are so much greater. Removing Dust and Scum. When the aquarium has no cover glass or when there is a considerable decomposition of old plants there is sometimes a scum formed on top of the water. To remove this tear a piece of newspaper to the width of the aquarium. Float the paper at one end of tank, lifting by one edge and draw quickly over the length of the water. Repeat once or twice with fresh paper. Algz and Conferve. Should the plants become completely covered with alge or “moss” try introducing a considerable number of small snails. The large Japanese variety are not always suitable for this, as they are unable to crawl on the smaller leaves. If this fails, remove and destroy the plants, thoroughly disinfect the aquarium in every particular and replant. Do not allow quite so much light in the future. There is a very long, hard conferve about the thickness of horse- hair which grows into matted masses. This is quite a pest when once established, as it soon fills the aquarium and enmeshes young fish which usually die before being rescued. The only way to get rid of this is to take up all plants, go over each carefully and see that no single thread of the conferve is left. If the smallest bit remains the growth will soon be as bad as ever. Fic. 7. PrRizEwINNING SCALELESS TELESCOPE GOLDFISH (Reduced one-quarter) This fish won the Diploma of Honor in 1907 as the best fish (any class) owned. Although no special attention was paid to “broadtails” at this time, there were quite a number of them, this being a good specimen. Fic. 8 PrizeEWwINNtNG VeILTAIL Moor (Reduced one-third) This is considered to be one of the finest black goldfishes ever bred. The short, deep body, the sail-like dorsal fin, the large, clear eyes, the broad flowing tails, the velvety black color combined with good lines and style make this remarkable fish a pattern which we might hope to equal but hardly to surpass. Chapter Two Goldfish Varieties 20 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND THE GOLDFISH There are two root-stocks from which the goldfishes of to-day have originated. Both are members of the carp family. The European gold- fish, Carassius carassius, has never been developed into any of the fancy forms except by crossing with cultivated types of the Asiatic stock, Ca- rassius auratus. The Orientals, principally those of Korea, China and Japan must be given credit for first establishing, by selective breeding, the goldfish as an ornamental pet as well as for the incredible lengths to which they have gone in fixing fancy breeds. Of this more will be said later. Fic. 9. THe Common GoLpFisH (Carassius auratus) Although a common American goldfish has been described by at least one writer, no such division properly exists. Those sometimes found in American waters are invariably from escaped or liberated stock from one of the two varieties mentioned, or from their hybrids. The normal color of fishes of both root-stocks is of a silver-gray or olivate hue, but with a strong natural tendency towards albinism, which produces occasional specimens of a yellow or golden color. By selective breeding the colors have become fairly well fixed, although in the scaled varieties the color is still at first carp-like, turning to gold, white or black, as a rule, in from three to eight months. Instances are quite common where they live to an old age without ever turning, so strong is the ten- dency among goldfish to revert to the ancestral stock. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 21 The common Goldfish being closely related to the original stock has most of its characteristics. It is very hardy, can withstand extremes of temperatures if brought about gradually, can remain out of water for several hours when kept moist, is easily tamed and is a prolific breeder. The body is rather long and flattened on the sides. The head is short, wide, and without scales. Names of the different fins should here be carefully noted, as they are frequently referred to in other parts of this work. The Dorsal Fin (on back), the Caudal Fin (the tail) and the Anal Fin (small fin nearest tail) are all single in the Common Goldfish. The Pectoral Fins (nearest head) and Ventral Fins (nearer lower centre of body) are paired. Under pond culture they will, in several years, reach a length of 16 inches and live for eighteen years or more. Cotors in GouprisHes. In color the fish varies from a smoky drab or olive to metallic red, yellow, white or partially black. Indeed a com- bination of all these colors is not infrequent, once the first carp-color is gone. The more prized colors in common goldfishes are deep red (called “gold”), white (called “pearl” and a combination of the two. The smoke-colored fishes are known as silverfishes, their color and metallic lustre somewhat resembling tarnished silver. Breeders call them “uncolored,” because they have not yet turned to one of the more de- sirable colors. Goldfishes of the metallic or “scaled” type are liable to change color at any time, the least liable to turn being the white or pearl fishes. After the first change from “silver,” the rule is to progress to- wards a lighter color. That is, from black to red or from red to white. Exceptions are very rare. It will also be found that the lighter colors are the more persistent in breeding, and as these are considered the least desirable, it is well to avoid light-colored fishes when it comes time to select breeding stock. Even when darker-colored breeders are used, the fancier is frequently disappointed by having a large proportion of the young develop light colors. Black is a color which for some unknown reason is confined almost exclusively to the telescope goldfish. In breeding telescopes it not infre- quently happens that the abnormal eye development never takes place. These fishes may develop any or all of the color peculiarities of their parent-stock except that of being black. In the breeding of fancy gold- fishes any freak combination of characteristics seems liable to occur, but the writer has never seen a good black fish without telescope eyes, although he is told by a reliable authority that there was one a number of years ago. We have referred to “scaled” goldfishes. There is another division not known to the general public but which plays a highly important part 22 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND in the goldfish fancy. This is the “‘scaleless” variety. These fishes are really not without scales, but the scales are of such transparent character that they are scarcely observable to the eye. However, they usually show with moderate distinctness in a clear photograph. Scaleless fishes do not have the metallic sheen of the ordinary goldfish. The colors are more refined and present a far greater range of variety. The most important difference is the presence of blue and lavender tints among scaleless fishes. Among the scaled fishes these are not found. A further account of these colors will be found in the description of the Calico Telescope on page 31 and in the chapter on judging Goldfish Competitions, page 43. Another important peculiarity of the scaleless type is that they never go through the period of being silverfish, but at the age of about six weeks commence to develop their permanent colors. Their first color is white, sprinkled with small, black specks. A good idea of the final color may be had in ten weeks, although as elsewhere remarked, the very finest of the calico colors are not fully apparent under two or three years. Scale- less fishes have a charm of refinement distinctly their own and make most interesting inmates of the aquarium. So transparently scaled are some specimens that at the breeding season it is often possible to tell females by seeing the eggs through the translucent walls of the belly. The main objection to the scaleless goldfish is that the ribs or rays of the fins are rather weak. Soon after the fins have attained a high degree of develop- ment the fish is no longer able to hold them in a position where they will show to advantage. In the majority of instances the dorsal and caudal fins (hereafter in this work popularly referred to as “‘tails’) commence to droop and sag in from two to three years, while the scaled fish often maintains an admirable stiffness of fins for a long life. This we would call ten years in a highly-bred fish. Questions are frequently asked regarding the length of life of fancy goldfishes, but these are always difficult to answer satisfactorily. A large proportion die under the age of 6 weeks. Of the remainder there are quite a few which do not develop rapidly, always remaining the “runts” of the batch. A few of these drop off from time to time during the winter, but in the early spring months they, and all other weak fishes, go rapidly, so that very few of the under- sized fishes are left by the first of May. Those passing this period are generally good until the next spring, when the death toll is rather heavy again, but a fair number pass it successfully and they are likely to live several years more to an age of from four to six years. Anywhere from six to twelve years can be considered a long life for a fancy goldfish, although well authenticated instances exceeding this are known. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 23 Earty Variations. In breeding single-tail fishes together in which there is no known double-tail stock, one will sometimes find a fish with the lower lobe of the tail double, making it a reasonable supposition that this was the first “break” in form away from the common stock. This is called a “tripod tail.” The next higher development is the “web-tail” in which both tails are fully formed but joined at the top edge instead of being completely divided. From these early “breaks” have been developed the fully divided tails, double anal fins et cetera. By careful selective breeding, types have become fairly well fixed, but the goldfish has a strong tendency to revert far back to ancestral types, in form as well as color, often to the annoyance of the breeder. One of the most interesting things about a spawning of goldfishes is the tremendous variety in the young. In a lot of a thousand young scaleless fishes there may not be two alike, and none may resemble either parent. That this, however, is not always so is a self-evident fact, else selective breeding would be without results. The accomplishments of Oriental breeders seems only to be limited by the scope of the imagination. Through the most patient efforts, not only of a lifetime, but of several generations of a family, such changes have been wrought in form and color that some of the breeds do not seem to even distantly resemble the common goldfish. That this is so is often evidenced by the fact that strangers to the fancy on first seeing a collection of highly developed fishes want to know what they are. An amusing incident illustrating this point occured in the preparation of the present volume. The engraver who made the plate for the goldfish design on the outside cover billed the publishers with “One Cut of But- terfly”! Those outside the fancy sometimes seriously refer to the fins of fancy specimens as “wings.” Among fanciers a high dorsal fin is often referred to as the “sail.” When it is borne in mind what a considerable period of time must have been necessary to bring about these strange breeds, it is not surpris- ing that racial ideas and characteristics should, to a certain degree, be ex- pressed in them. The Telescope Goldfish was originated in China and undoubtedly bears a resemblance to Chinese art. It has a sort of beau- tiful ugliness, a deliberate grotesqueness, intended first to shock and then excite curiosity. The wonderful range of colors, too, suggests the art of the Chinese—that race which continues to-day to lead the world in the clever use of color. The Japanese Fringetail Goldfish is another expression of national art. It is the very embodiment of that aesthetic elegance and grace so well understood by the Japanese people. America has not been without its logical contribution. Here in this vast melting pot it is our desire to bring forth combinations of the best from the old 24 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND worlds, to which is added a touch of individuality of our own. Although we have made several other combinations in crosses, the most important is the beautiful Scaleless Fringetail. European aquarists have not as a rule developed fancy goldfish breeding to the point it has been carried in America. Their interests, particularly among the Germans, are cen- tered in tropical fishes, in which specialty they easily lead the world. In the Veiltail Telescope, the most important breed in this country, American breeders have virtually created a new class, although none of the separate points are of our own development. We have combined the short body and long fins of the Japanese Fringetail with the Chinese eyes, and colors. The broad, square tails seem to come from the Chinese side, but so far as we know they did not especially breed for this point nor for length in connection with it. It is believed that the first cultivated goldfishes came from Korea, that country from which even ancient China borrowed ideas, education and arts, but so little is known of this that we have to take our facts as we now find them. That there have been and are breeds of goldfishes in both China and Japan which have never been sent out is well attested by travelers to-day and by a book published in Paris in 1780, by de Sau- vigny. This remarkably illustrated work shows many of the varieties in color. The only known copy in the United States is in the Academy of Natural Sciences, Philadelphia, where it will be shown those interested. The easiest characteristic to fix in a breed is the lengthening of the body and fins. This brings us to a description of the first of the fancy goldfish varieties or breeds. THE COMET GOLDFISH The Comet has been referred to as the Japanese Comet because it is probably a “sport” from Japanese stock. Japanese experts have as- sured us the breed is not recognized in their country and certainly no considerable numbers of them have ever been imported from there. The first of the long single-tail breed appears to have been originated in the ponds of the Fish Commission in Washington in the early eighties. Mr. Hugo Mullertt either secured some of this stock or later originated a strain of his own. At any rate, he was the first to place them on the market in quantity. The Comet is long of body and fins, the tail in par- ticular being very free-flowing. In movement this fish is the most grace- ful of all the fancy goldfishes and it can swim with great rapidity when necessary. This activity has made it easy for the fish to revert to its ancestral tendency to leap out of the water. Aquaria containing Comets should be covered by a screen, particularly in spring. The Comet makes the most beautiful and generally satisfactory pond goldfish where a dec- TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 25 orative effect is desired. They are perfectly hardy over winter in a deep pool or where they may burrow in leaves or soft mud. The type breeds quite true to form and many thousands of them are raised annually for eae ee eee Se Pee Saatro- Sates SOT ae See se Fic. 10. THE Scatep CoMeET the trade. A few years ago there was a wonderful strain of scaleless comets of deep, oxblood red color. Unfortunately this was lost and present-day breeders with scaleless stock that could be so crossed as to produce scaleless comets find it more profitable to utilize their spare time and energy in propagating other breeds. Fig. 11. Tur SHUBUNKIN 26 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND THE SHUBUNKIN One of the more recent introductions is the Shubunkin. This is simply a transparently scaled, highly mottled, common goldfish. All breeders of fancy stock occasionally get fish which are known as “sports” which have reverted back in form, but not in color to the original type. The Japanese have now fixed them as a breed, and export a fair number of them. They are of the most striking variation in color, and make a hardy, attractive aquarium or pond fish. The colors most sought after are blue backgrounds, sprinkled and mottled with dark red, brown, yellow and black. The Japanese stock has quite short fins, but those bred in America are a little more developed in this respect, the illustration showing the American style. THE FANTAIL GOLDFISH This is no doubt the early type of double-tailed goldfishes and is the kind most frequently met with in pet shops. Enormous quantities of them are annually raised in Japan, China, United States and Germany. Being long of body, with fins not highly developed they make good breeders and Fic. 12. THe Fantarir agile swimmers. This means that in the contest for life they are able in most cases to hold their own with the hardy single-tailed variety. Since the price for “‘fantails” is considerably in advance of that for ‘“‘commons,” it would seem a better commercial venture to invest a little more money at the start for “fantail”? breeding stock. However, none should go into the raising of fish of any kind as a commercial enterprise without first obtaining actual experience in a smaller way. The anal fins, as well as the tails, should be double and clearly divided. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 27 THE JAPANESE FRINGETAIL GOLDFISH In point of pure elegance there is no breed of goldfish equal to the Japanese Fringetail. Our illustration is taken from a sketch of the fish, made by its owner, Mr. Franklin Barrett. A few words regarding this, X IR t . SRNR SAN NNR na aN Fic. 13. THe JAPANESE FrincetalL (Veiltail or Broadtail style) the best-known individual fish that has ever been owned in this country, might be of interest. The Japanese Imperial Government sent a collection of its best goldfishes to the World’s Fair at Chicago in 1893. Only a few of them survived the journey and still fewer lived through the Exposi- tion. These had fallen into a diseased condition and were given to Mr. William P. Seal. He cured them and later sold this one, now known as “The World’s Fair Fish,” to Mr. Barrett, for a comparatively small consideration. At that time the fish had not developed the wonderful qualities which have made it famous. It was one of those cases where “blood will tell.” 28 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND Regarding this fish as a type of perfection that could not be improved upon, the Aquarium Society of Philadelphia had a drawing of it made from Mr. Barrett’s sketch and used as a society emblem. ‘The society later had the fish struck on its medal. It lived to an age of about fifteen years, and was the father of many fine specimens. The characteristic points of the Japanese Fringetail are brought out in the illustration. The body is short, rounded and chunky, with short head and flat eyes. The lower fins are long, pendant and delicately lace- like, and are all paired. The dorsal fin is as high as the body is deep. It should be carried erect, producing the effect of a sail as the fish moves majestically through the water. As in most other varieties, the deeper colors, both in scaled and scaleless specimens, are the more highly prized. Scaleless fringetails, an American production obtained by crossing Japa- nese Fringetails with Chinese Scaleless Telescopes, are exceedingly re- fined in appearance. The illustration shows the tubercles on the gill plate and pectoral fins, indicative of the male sex. THE JAPANESE NYMPH GOLDFISH The Nymph is virtually a single-tail Fringetail. The anal fin and tail are single. The latter, instead of drooping, should be carried out Fic. 14. THe Nympu straight, and well spread. This fish is usually a “sport” from fringetail stock. Although seldom deliberately bred, fine specimens are very attrac- TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 29 tive in an aquarium and are often retained by fanciers. In their active movements as well as in points of conformation they make a pleasing contrast with the double-tailed varieties. One of the principal features is the dorsal fin, which should be large and carried quite erect, as de- scribed for the Fringetail. The body requirements are also the same. CHINESE TELESCOPE GOLDFISHES This most curious fish is either of Chinese or Korean origin, but was undoubtedly brought to its highest stage of development in China. The name correctly implies its chief peculiarity—projecting eyes. These make dp) A ND \ Fic, 15. Earty STYLE CHINESE TELESCOPE a very weird appearance, and almost without exception produce a shock- ing impression on being seen for the first time. So perverted or educated do our tastes later become that we find our admiration increasing in pro- portion to the degree of malformation attained in the fish. Telescope eyes vary in shape and in direction. The majority of them are spherical or conical. Tubular eyes are rare and highly prized, but any form is con- sidered good so long as they are large and stand out far from the head. Most telescope eyes point in the same direction as normal eyes, but some point forward. This is unusual. The Celestial Telescope has still more peculiar eye formation. This is described under its own heading. One point in common between all telescope goldfishes is that in the early weeks of life the eyes appear entirely normal. Until they actually 30 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND start to “develop eyes” at anywhere from two months to even two years, it is impossible to tell whether or not they will become telescopes. The usual development period, however, is from three to five months. Should they pass ten months without turning, they may be safely called Japanese fringetails. Many such fishes that have come from telescope stock are used to breed to telescopes to produce telescopic young. This is usually successful in the first generation, but it has a tendency to spoil the breed by gradually reducing the size of the eyes. Telescope fishes of the present time are, for the most part, considerably inferior in point of eyes com- pared with the stock of fifteen years ago, due mainly to breeding too. ex- clusively for short bodies and long fins. Type characteristics in any kind of breeding can, like liberty, only be maintained at the price of eternal vigilance. Fic. 16. CHINESE SCALELESS TELEScorPE (Dorsal view) THE CHINESE SCALELESS TELESCOPE GOLDFISH As before stated, “scaleless” is somewhat of a misnomer, the fish being transparently scaled, making the scales difficult to detect. We use the word “scaleless” in its accepted popular sense. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 31 __ Fishes of this general division are divided into two color classes— plain scaleless and calico. The plain scaleless is red, white or a combina- tion of the two. Red in scaleless fishes is quite different from that in scaled varieties, being more of an ox-blood color, producing a highly refined appearance. In scaleless fishes the bodies do not have a metallic lustre. The colors seem as though they had been laid on by the delicate hand of a water-color artist. These fishes have white fins. During the first few months the roots of the tails are usually dark, but this gradually disappears. The Calico Telescope is the consideration of first importance, not only in this group, but among all fancy goldfishes in America. Its name is suggestive of its coloring, but the colors are by no means in geometrical arrangement, as they are in the fabric. Red, yellow, brown, gray, black, blue and lavender are laid in fantastic blotches and spots over the body, usually on a lighter background. Many small dots of black are sprinkled over the body and fins. In extra fine specimens red dots will also appear in the fins. The color chiefly sought is blue, and the more blue, the more valued the fish. Probably every American breeder of scaleless telescopes has an ambition to breed a solid blue fish with high-class body and fins. A few solid blues have been produced, but the other required points were woefully lacking. Calico Telescopes of the higher order seldom find their way into the pet shop, the price effectively keeping them out. This is true of most of the finer fishes. Public taste in these matters is not suffi- ciently educated to warrant dealers in taking the risk of carrying the more highly developed, and therefore more delicate, specimens in stock. It must be noted, however, that the past few years has witnessed a gratifying development of general interest in the better aquaria and fancy fishes of all kinds. THE SCALELESS VEILTAIL TELESCOPE While it is true that some of the early Chinese scaleless importations had broad tails and medium length bodies, it is highly probable that none of them equaled in short bodies and long fins the present American stand- ard type. We crossed Japanese Fringetails with scaleless Chinese Tele- scopes, thereby producing two new varieties which have become permanent —Scaleless Japanese Fringetails and Scaleless Veiltail Telescopes. Both have been bred for broad-tail qualities (veiltail), and may be considered an American variation. The characteristic points of the Scaleless Veil- tail Telescopes are the same as those for the body and fin formation of the Japanese Fringetail and the eyes and coloring of the Chinese Telescope. The coloring almost always tried for is calico, but if a fish fails in this and 32 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND Fic. 17. Perrect CaLico VEILTAIL TELESCOPE still retains the other characteristics of the breed, it is considered a good fish. A perfect calico veiltail telescope is the acme of perfection which most American breeders have in mind as their highest goal. THE CHINESE CELESTIAL TELESCOPE GOLDFISH For a long time an erroneous belief existed that the peculiar eyes of the celestial goldfish are produced by placing the young in jars which were lighted only from a small slit in the top. Although this variety is difficult to breed, it has been done several times in the United States. No peculiar contrivances of any kind were used. At the usual period of about ten weeks they developed ordinary telescope eyes in the regular way. Later they gradually turned towards the top of the head as shown in Figs. 18 and 39. If any such peculiarity had been produced by mechanical means, it would not be reproduced in the offspring. By some Orientals the Celes- tial Goldfish is considered sacred on account of its constant heavenward gaze, and is accorded a place in their temples. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 33 Fic. 18. THe CHINESE CELESTIAL The Celestial Telescope is the most difficult of the imported gold- fishes to rear or to keep alive in the aquarium. THE JAPANESE BARNACLED GOLDFISH Barnacled goldfishes are so rare that the majority of leading fan- ciers have never seen them. They were first imported from Japan in 1897, soon disappearing from view. Although no new stock is known to have been imported, the peculiar characteristic has recently made its appearance again. Whether these fishes are inheriting from the original imported stock, of whether they represent an independent “break,” such as the Japanese breeders utilized in starting the breed, it is impossible even to surmise. The scales are raised sharply in the center, presenting regular lines of dots along the sides of the fish. These should not be confounded with fishes suffering from dropsy. In the latter case the scales stand from the body at the outer edge. Otherwise the fish has the characteristics of the telescope fish. 34 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND THE CHINESE MOOR TELESCOPE GOLDFISH The Moor is a most striking breed of the goldfish, its intense, velvety black color forming a rich contrast for the more gaily colored specimens in the aquarium. The intense blackness extends to every part of the fish except the under side of the belly. This shades off to a blue-gray or a slight golden tint. In the latter case the fish is likely to eventually turn Fic. 19. Younc CHINESE Moor (Veiltail) gold. This is not certain, nor is the blue-gray a guarantee against turn- ing, although it is less likely to do so. Breeders have not found that the greatest percentage of blacks is produced by using two blacks, but by crossing a deep red scaled fish with a black. A good Moor with the body and fin development of the Fringetail, is a very choice fish, and is always in demand. The accompanying illustration, made from a very fine year- ling fish, does not give a full idea of the intense black color of the original. Some of this had to be sacrificed in order that the drawing might show all details of the fish. Our photographic illustration of a veiltail Moor, on page 18, will give a better idea of the color. THE JAPANESE LION-HEADED GOLDFISH In point of grotesqueness and the amazing accomplishments of breeding fancy goldfish, probably nothing surpasses the so-called Lion- TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 35 head. It is often remarked that the name is not particularly appropriate, but seems to have become established. ‘“Buffalo-head” would be a much more descriptive and appropriate name. There are three strong char- acteristics to this fish. The first is a thick growth over the gill plates and head somewhat resembling a large raspberry. The second is the entire absence of dorsal fin, and the third is the extremely thick, short body. The growth on the head seldom commences before the age of six months Fic, 20. Tue LIONHEAD, OR BUFFALOHEAD and sometimes never appears. It is well developed in two years and increases in size as long as the fish lives. After the head growth has become quite thick it is advisable to keep the fish in running or other well oxygenated water. The mechanical difficulty of breathing is considerable and unless there is plenty of oxygen the fish is liable to suddenly expire when in apparently good condition. The tails and anals should be double, but defects in these points are not considered serious if head and body are good. The colors are the usual pearl and red of the common goldfish. A few transparently scaled specimens have been produced by crossing with transparently scaled fish of other breeds. One or two Lionheads in a mixed aquarium add considerably to the variety. It was believed by some that the absence of dorsal fin was the result of its being extracted by Japanese breeders while the fish was young. This has been proven a gross error for the same reasons stated in paragraph on Celestial Telescopes. 36 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND THE ORANDA In the opinion of the writer an Oranda was originally a Lionhead with a dorsal fin—in other words, a Lionhead which did not come true Fic. 21. THe OrANpDA to form. However, it is recognized as a variety and is accorded a place in goldfish shows. The fins and body are usually longer than in the Lionhead. THE CHINESE TUMBLER GOLDFISH Among other breeds of Chinese goldfish never popularly known in America is the Tumbler. The peculiarity of this fish is that of somer- sault gyrations comparable to those of tumbler pigeons, caused by the spine curving backwards. A fish performing in this manner is occasion- ally seen in a hatching of any short-bodied stock, and is usually killed to relieve it of the misery of existence. We cannot imagine that a breed of this sort would ever become popular in this country, for it would be too suggestive of troubles we already have in fishes caused by internal derangements, chiefly of the swimming bladder. In addition to the few specimens seen in this country, a similar fish is described by de Sauvigny. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 37 THE CHINESE EGGFISH A few of these fishes were imported some years ago, but have never become generally known. So far as America is concerned the breed is temporarily lost. This fish, as its name correctly implies, has a rounded Fic. 22. THe CHINESE EccrisH white body resembling an egg. The absence of dorsal and anal fins enhances this effect very much. The tails are bifurcated and decidedly drooping. This fish would form an almost dazzling contrast with a Veil- tail Moor Telescope. The breed is recognized in Europe. CHINESE LETTERED GOLDFISHES It has been claimed that in some instances the Orientals have suc- ceeded in breeding fishes marked with Chinese letter characters on the sides. In strongly mottled stock such a design might accidentally appear, but from our knowledge of goldfish breeding traits we do not believe any definite color pattern could be deliberately produced. It is much more probable that the fishes have been cleverly stained by the use of oxalate of iron or dilute hydrochloric acid. 38 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND THE METEOR, OR TAILLESS GOLDFISH In breeding for long-tailed fishes a strange perversion sometimes occurs in the form of a tailless fish, the other fins being well developed. The anal is single. Some of these have recently been bred together, and Fic. 23. THE METEOR by a few generations of selective breeding the type has become quite well fixed. At first regarded as a mere freak, the Meteor has been accorded a place in a number of competitive exhibitions. A specimen such as illustrated can swim better than would be imagined, and makes quite a streaming effect passing through the water. Chapter Three Judging Goldfish Competitions 40 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND JUDGING GOLDFISH COMPETITIONS Among aquarium socieites there is a certain demand for competitive exhibitions of goldfish varieties. The difficulties of making satisfactory awards are considerable, due in part to varying ideas as to what consti- tutes standards of perfection. To reduce this difficulty to a minimum the Aquarium Society of Philadelphia instituted a series of conferences of leading fanciers in order to establish a satisfactory and uniform scale of standards. The diagrams shown herewith represent a composite of the best ideas obtainable. The majority of leading societies have adopted them as a whole. The “point system” of judging, as it is called, is too slow and labor- ious for use on an entire large exhibition. The two or three best fish, selected on general appearances should be set aside from the others and judged independently by three judges, on points. The totals are then averaged and awards made. In those classes requiring double anal fins the fish is penalized three points for having only one. In the fringetail classes the tails must be fully divided to receive con- sideration. The longtail or fringetail group is divided into two classes, the veiltail and the ribbontail. These are sometimes called “broad-tail” and “swallow-tail” or ‘‘cut-out-tail.” In the veiltail the centre of each tail is indented or forked less than one-third of its total length. The swallow- tail is cut in to one-third or more. The diagram on page 43 will plainly show this. The making of these classes has caused some confusion. The author believes that fishes of these two types and those on the difficult dividing line should all take their chances together. The division was undoubtedly made as an expediency in order to make more awards and thereby please as many people as possible. So far as can be determined, no such divi- sions of fin shape have ever been recognized in China or Japan, and the same was true here until the period of 1910-12, when it became a con- spicuous fact that nearly all winners of competitions were of the broad- tail type. Those not possessing stock of this style became dissatisfied, and in order to appease them, a class of the old-style fish was definitely established. While the veiltail is the more difficult to handle and to breed, it is accepted as the standard to be striven for. The word “veil- tail’ is adapted from the German Schleierschwanz, and is more truly [Nyssoons ATQEYIVWMdL OTR Iie SIO adsvp sasyjO UL suONIqYyXs Iyqug ‘syurod jueysip Wory sqsvisnyjua Lueur Supp our ‘sep dasy} UL pudye SIOJISTA PpajsaiayUl QOO'ST Jo spaeady “saqoyaQ ur Aypenuue ppoy Soyshy winiivnby Jo UONIQIyNa JeUOeN sy} 10J punosSyoeq [eapr ue ‘uoejasaa peoidosy JO Surjas Jusaywuscut SH YPM SSULIO] UONIQIyXY Jeruuayuay ay} wory ssurppnq Juoueutssd OM] ay} Jo auo “eR PesnyNyIOPT VIHITHIVIIH J NOLIN WarvaAdoy “Fo “Ply Fig. 25. Mepat or THE AgtariumM Soctery OF PHILADELPHIA (Exact size) The first medal offered by an American Aquarium Society. It is awarded annually fer the best fish owned and the best fish bred by a member: also tor dis- tinguished achievement or services in the advancement of aquarium study. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 43 descriptive than “fringetail,” a word more apt to describe the split and ragged ends of the fins of a fish out of condition. In competitions goldfish are divided into the scaled and ‘‘scaleless” classes, the latter being transparently scaled. The ‘scaled fishes are colored gold (metallic red) silver (metallic drab or smoke) pearl (metallic white) and moors (blacks). The first should be of a deep shade of red. The second is a transitory color and varies but little. As a color value it ranks low. The pearl is a grade higher, but light colors in general are not favored. Moors should be a deep, purple-black, free from the appearance of a-white scum. These blacks are never completely black under the belly. It is at this point that they usually begin to turn red, which is liable to happen to a moor at any age. “Scaleless” fishes are divided into red, white, mottled and calico. The preferred shade of red is of the deep, oxblood color. White ranks lowest. Mottled is a combination of red and white, while the highest prized is the calico, a combination of all the colors in finely divided spots. In this class the all-important color is blue or lavender, the deeper the better, and also the more the better. The ideal calico has a body back- ground of blue, red and white, over which is a sprinkling of fine black ‘ dots. The black dots and some red ones are also freely distributed over all the fins, which are otherwise white in these and all “scaleless” fishes. The highest development of this color seldom occurs under the age of from two to three years. In the opinion of the writer, societies should avoid too frequent competitive exhibitions. They promote discord and tend to develop pro- fessionalism. Those truly interested in the development of the fancy will be willing to bring out their fish without thought of reward other than giving pleasure to their friends and the public. OFFICIAL CHARTS Showing Ideal Figures of the Principal Goldfish Varieties, Together with Valuation Points Copyrighted by Franklin Barrett COLOR - 18 Style - 5 COLOR-18 STYLE- § Fic. 26. SwaALLow TAIL CoMET Fic. 27. VEILTAIL CoMET 44 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND COLOR 18 é COLOR -18 STYLE S$ STyce 5 Fic. 28. SwaLtowTalL NyMPH Fic. 29. Verttart Ny mMpu EYES 18 COLOR 18 EYES 18 STYLE 5 ervine S Fic. 30. SwattowraIL TELEscopr NyMpu Bie. 31. Meter oTeiescore Nein STYLE § Fic. 32. SwattowtaiL Jap. FRINGETAIL Fic. 33. Dorsat View, Swatiow TAIL Jap. FRINGETAIL TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 45 TOP VIEW VEIL -TAIL JAP. GOLOR 18 STYLE 5 Fic. 34. Verttait JAp. FRINGETAIL Fic. 35. DorsaL View, VEILTAIL Jap. FRINGETAIL ~—~, COLOR 18 STYle 5 Fic. 36. SwALLOWTAIL TELESCOPE COLOR 18 COLOR 16 STYLE 5 STYLE § Fic. 38. Oranpna Fic. 29. CELESTIAL 46 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND SFtou COLOR 18. STYLE 5 Fic. 40. Dorsat VIEW, CELESTIAL Fic. 41. LionHEap TABLE OF POINTS FOR ALL CLASSES Double Body Tail Dorsal Fins Color Anals Style Eyes Telescopes .......... 18 18 14 + 18 5 5 18 100 Japs seas sare 24+ 26 18 4+ 18 5 5 100 Nymphs 2 sees cece A 25 27 20 5 18 5 100 Comets i335 gan descete ok 20 32 20 5 18 a 100 Telescope Nymphs ... 19 19 16 5 618 5 18 100 Celestials ............ 18 18 + 18 5 5 32 100 Shubunkins .......... 10 10 10 5 660 S 100 Head Lion Heads ......... 18 18 + 18 5 5 32 100 QOrandas. ¢ccccneedoe 18 18 14 4+ 18 5 5 18 100 Chapter Four Propagation of the Goldfish 43 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND SEX IN GOLDFISHES The chief indications of a male fish (“buck”) in the breeding sea- son—about January till August—are the small tubercles appearing on the gill plates. These are a little smaller than pin-heads and the fish must be viewed at a certain angle in order to see them. (See illustration on page 27 and lower photograph on page 56.) The female fish (“roe”) is usually shorter and fuller of body, par- ticularly when carrying spawn. The spawn as a rule is more on one side of the fish than the other, so that in looking directly down on the fishes’ back it may be found to be curved to one side. After spawning is over this deformity often remains. In a female which has spawned the vent is always a little protuberant. The eggs can often be seen through the translucent skin of females of the scaleless type. Early in the year the young males will begin swimming after the females, following close to the vent. Without observing any of the fore- going rules the sex may often be told in this way. BREEDING The breeding of fancy goldfishes is one of the most fascinating of diversions. There are many difficulties to be encountered and even the oldest fanciers sometimes have new troubles to face. Goldfish, possibly more than any other creatures, draw their characteristics from far- removed ancestors. Or again they may become a counterpart of either parent. This makes a considerable element of uncertainty, since the characteristics of their preceding stock has for the most part contained a great deal of variety, due, no doubt, to experimental crosses. This produces a most interesting and sometimes annoying variation in a lot of young goldfish. As the fish gets beyond the small fry stage the breeder becomes intensely absorbed in daily observation of points of form, color and size as they appear. The percentage of fancy fish coming true to type is usually small. Ten per cent. of fish to pass the critical inspection of the fanciers’ eye is not considered bad. Besides these about fifty per cent. of the batch will come true, but will be qualified by slight defects. The balance may be anything at all, single-tail fish from double-tail parents being the principal disappointment. These percentages are averaged from general breeding, but are liable to wide variation. Sometimes there is no fish in a hatching to approach the quality of either parent; sometimes a large percentage is better than both parents. If a strain is carefully watched TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 49 for several generations and no fish varying from the desired type is allowed to breed, the percentage of young coming true can be kept very high. The beginner should get his first experience in breeding the more hardy varieties—the comet, for instance—but this stage passed he should select none but the best breeding fish out of known good stock. The best time to purchase new stock is in September and October, preference being given to the larger fish about seven months old. At this period the dealer-fancier is usually willing to sell off some of his larger old fish. These are more showy than the young, but should not be selected as breeders. In fact, none but the expert fancier who knows well what he is about should purchase any fish over one year old. The fish often show signs of breeding early in the year. As pre- viously stated the young males will start “driving” the females. If this is observed before March, the sexes should be separated, as early spawns are not to be desired, unless one has very special facilities. If the spawn- ing can be delayed until May, results will be more satisfactory. The reasons for this are that the harmful long cold spells are less likely to occur and that living food can be obtained with more certainty. Spawn- ing may be delayed by separating the sexes and by keeping the fish in cool water. As spawning time approaches the fish should be well fed on nourish- ing food. Finely chopped earthworms, carefully rinsed, are excellent. Live daphnia are even better. When the breeders have been selected they should be placed togther by themselves. If possible there should be three males to one female. This insures a higher percentage of fertilized eggs than if only one male is used. If the definite results of a certain cross are wanted then use only one male. A second female not spawning should never be present, as she will devour the spawn. Papier maché tubs are very nice for spawning in, but seasoned wood tubs or tanks will do. The aquarium may be used, or the spawning net shown on page 231. Should there be no spawn after the fish have been together several days, remove about a quarter of the water daily and replace by fresh. This is very stimulating. Some intimation of an approaching spawning may be had by the fact that the males occasionally “drive” the ripe female for several days before the spawning takes place. This usually increases in intensity the evening before, and when spawning is in full swing it develops into a wild chase punctuated by short periods of rest. So vigorous is the swimming at this time that fishes with large fin development generally have their fins torn and frayed. Males with shorter caudal fins (tails) are the more rapid swimmers and their fins 50 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND become less torn. As these are usually also the young, vigorous males they are to be preferred for breeding purposes. Spawning usually starts at daybreak and lasts till middle afternoon. It may be repeated every few weeks until the first of August, but the first spawn of the season is the largest. Goldfish deposit their eggs preferably on floating aquatic plants, and these should be freely provided (first making sure they contain no snails or other enemies to fish eggs). The best are water hyacinths (with as large roots as possible) and bunches of myriophyllum. The female will swim over the plants and drop the eggs. As they fall the male passes over and fertilizes them by an ejection of spermatic fluid. They are of a mucilaginous character and adhere to the plants. The eggs are about one-sixteenth of an inch in diameter and are of a pale, amber hue. The fish drops from ten to twenty eggs at a time, and after short intermis- sions repeats the operation. A complete spawning of a medium sized female runs from five hundred to one thousand eggs. Large fish not infrequently spawn over three thousand. This refers to the first breed- ing of the season. As previously remarked, subsequent spawnings are considerably smaller. As the plants become covered with eggs they should be removed from time to time, allowing a few minutes for the last deposit to become fertilized. These plants should be removed to enamel trays about 4 inches deep and ‘12 to 20 inches in diameter, containing clean water of the same temperature as breeding tank. If more con- venient the fish may be removed after spawning and allow the eggs to hatch where they have fallen. One of our leading breeders makes an egg- trap composed of a number of bunches of myriophyllum, secured together in a radiating circle, like the spokes of a wheel. About 10 bunches are used. The tinfoil is removed from each and tied again with thread. The same thread is carried half an inch to the next bunch and so on until they are all arranged on a string, which is then knotted together in the form of a circle. The fishes spawn in this with their heads to the centre, and as the eggs are discharged in the direction of the rays of plants, the chances of the eggs finding a lodging place in them are very good. Such a circle need not be removed until well filled with eggs. Some females eat their own spawn, so removal of eggs is safer if hyacinths or small bunches of myriophyllum are used. No snails should be present, as they eat the eggs. However, after the eggs have hatched the snails should be used to eat the infertile ones. These appear on the second day to be milky white and later become covered with large balls of fungus. The fertile eggs are of a pale amber color and are not easily seen. This fact together with the marked prominence of the infertile eggs often gives the beginner the idea that the eggs are all bad. He is generally surprised, therefore, to see what a large number hatch. Fic. 42. TrLescope GoLprisHes SPAWNING This unusual photograph shows two females spawning on a ring of Myrio- phyllum. The smaller fishes are the males, in vigorous pursuit. Males do not average of smaller size than the females, but the younger ones are the more active and fertilize a higher percentage of eggs than do their elder brethren, Fic. 43. Gorprisu Eeas (Slightly magnified ) Being of a pale amber color, goldfish eggs are very difficult to photograph as they actually appear. The one beneath the arrow gives a more correct idea than any of the others, but the general distribution of eggs on Hyacinth roots is shown in a characteristic manner. Fic. 44. GotprisH AT Two WEEKS The abdominal yolk-sacks have been absorbed but the stomachs protrude in a way to show that plenty of small living food has been provided. Fic. 45. GotprisH AT SIX WEEKS At this period they have come to look like fishes. From this point until late Fall they eat at least their own bulk daily, and the bodies in fancy stock will con- tinue to deepen. Fic. 46. Terescope GoLpFisH at TWELVE WEEKS They have now attained their body form and started to develop telescope eyes. In the scaleless varieties the colors have largely appeared, but among scaled stock the young at this period remain ‘uncolored.’ By this time the breeder has usually selected the best specimens to hold for the following year. These should be placed by themselves in ample room. When the supply of live food is limited, they are the ones which are favored. Fic. 47. PrizEwInninG TELESCOPE Fic. 48. PrizEwiInNING SCALELESS TELESCOPE GoLpFIsH Over One YEAR OLp, FULLY DEVELOPED TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 57 The development of the embryo under the microscope is plainly observable and is extremely interesting. The hatching time is from three to fourteen days, according to temperature.’ At a temperature ranging from 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit they should take from four to five days. This is considered to produce stronger fish than a slow hatch- ing. The hatching trays and young fish should be kept in a light place and, if possible, where they may be protected from a temperature below 60 degrees. Goldfish at any age should be partially protected from the direct glare of the sun, so that they may at will go into the sun or shade. A few sticks to form a rough lattice over the tray or tub will do very well. In case of rain the sticks, unless already weatherbeaten, should be removed, as water from new wood is injurious. If the fish are in a position where they get only about two hours of morning sun, no pro- tection from light need be considered. Goldfish do’ not prosper in too much heat, and temperatures above 85 degrees, even temporarily, are to be avoided if possible. Fish under eight weeks old can stand more heat than can older fish. When the alevin or newly hatched embryo bursts from the egg it is a very weak creature. Jt appears a mere thread with a pair of eyes at one end and small lump in the centre. This is the umbilical sack and serves as subsistence for the first few days. At first the alevin can only swim by a few jerky motions, and has the power of sticking wherever it touches. At the age of one day they are to be found hanging on the plants and the sides of whatever receptacle they are in. In from two to three days they are swimming freely. When the umbilical sac has been absorbed, which is in about three days, the babies will need some food which has been previously prepared. The first natural food is a large variety of microscopic animals known under the general heading of infusoria. These are present in all exposed water which has stood a few days, but in order to have sufficient for fishfood it is necessary to have conditions favorable to their culture. This consists mainly of vegetable decay. Dried and powdered lettuce leaves or duckweed, sprinkled thickly on the water produce good results in a few days, kept in a warm place and a subdued light. Also a quantity of hay over which boiling water is poured will soon produce the creatures. A low-power micros- cope or cheap magnifying glass should be employed in this work. (See page 140). After the culture is apparent and the fish are swimming freely, occasional dips of culture water should be put in with the young fry. Sometimes the infusorians can be found freely in standing pools, particularly where the water is not very clean, and where there are no daphnia or other crustaceans. One species, Brachionus rubens, some- times occurs so thickly that the surface of the water appears to be covered GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND or D by a thin, rusty scum. Small pools about a cattle yard are particularly favorable, but, of course, if the water is very dark it should be used sparingly. This sort of food should be used for about ten days to two weeks. Illustrations Nos. 93 to 96 show types of this living food, but one does not need to be very particular as to the exact form. In general anything alive that is too small to be well seen by the naked eye, but which is visible under a magnifying glass, will answer the purpose. Col- lection can be made with nets of fine bolting cloth. If green water can be had, some of it should be put in with the young fish. It contains vege- table matter of value to very small fry. After the fry have noticeably increased in size they should be fed young daphnia which have been screened through a fine wire tea strainer. As size increases, feed full size daphnia. (See page 130.) While the fry are being fed on infusoria, however, no daphnia should be introduced. The daphnia, as well as the small fish feed on infusoria and are more skilled than goldfish in catching them. Where daphnia have been for a few hours, no infusoria can be found, so thoroughly do they clear the water of them. In other words daphnia and goldfish up to the age of about ten days for the fish are competitors for the same living food. Contrary to previous theories numbers of our leading breeders now use a drip of water in the tanks with young fish over one month old. In many cases this plan seems to produce remarkable growth. The use of an ordinary drain in this connection is inadvisable, particularly if outdoors, as a heavy downpour of rain is liable to carry off the small fish. If the tank used has a drain pipe a large wire guard covered with cheesecloth will answer the purpose, but the cloth should be renewed occasionally, as the water rots the fabric. If fish are in a tub a good drain can be made by placing a 2-inch strip of stiff felt around the out- side edge. Secure the felt in position by securely wrapping a cord around it as close to top of tub as possible, allowing the felt to stand about one inch above sides of tub. This will not only secure the young fish, but will prevent the loss of any daphnia by overflow. Best results are had in raising fish out doors, but one invites catas- trophe by placing them out in the first warm spell of Spring unless it is possible to again bring them indoors promptly on the arrival of the cold spells sure to occur in the Spring of our Eastern climate. In instances where it is not possible to secure living food for raising young fish they may be started on rice flour, yellow of egg forced through bolting cloth or fishfood reduced to a powder and sifted through cheese- cloth. As they increase in size an excellent diet is the paste from boiled oatmeal after straining through muslin or cheesecloth. Powdered shrimp TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 59 or codfish as described on page 129 can be added to the oatmeal to advantage. Whether fed on living or prepared food, young goldfish should be fed very liberally. This is essential to securing large strong fish of good constitution. They eat almost constantly. It is better to feed several times daily than to put in a whole day’s supply at one time. With pre- pared food it is liable to foul the water with long standing and too many daphnia introduced at one time exhaust the oxygen in the water. This lack of oxygen retards growth and may produce suffocation. As the fry develop in size the more nearly perfect specimens should be ‘selected from the others, given more room and the best of the food. It is much better to concentrate on raising a few fine specimens, and to succeed in this requires plenty of room for each fish. This point cannot be dwelled upon too strongly. Even many expert fanciers fail to get the best results on account of trying to raise too many young in a given space. At the age of six weeks they should have at least one gallon per fish, three gallons at nine weeks and six gallons at twelve weeks and over. This rule is for fishes which are growing. Small fry should be dipped out with a spoon and never poured. Rough handling kills them almost instantly. For some unknown reason certain individual fishes grow very much more rapidly than others. These larger ones monopolize the food and sometimes eat the smaller. They should therefore be sorted according to size several times in a season. WINTERING GOLDFISHES In outdoor ponds where there are plenty of dead leaves and soft dirt, the hardier varieties of goldfish will survive the winter. The ice should be broken to admit air. This air space also tends to prevent deeper freezing. If a few warm spells occur it will do no harm to feed the fishes very lightly when the ice entirely melts. This should not be done oftener than once a week. If one has insufficient aquarium or indoor pool space to keep the stock of fine fishes over winter, tubs will be found good, especially those of papier maché. Occasional partial changes of water will prove bene- ficial, particularly in concrete tanks. Winter is the natural resting period of goldfishes and at this time they do not require much warmth nor food. Their food at this time, however, should receive careful attention. They need a certain amount of fresh animal food, and as the usual form (Daphnia) cannot generally be 60 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND had in winter, substitutes are of value. This is taken up in chapter on Fishfoods, page 130. Transparently-scaled white or nearly white fishes need more warmth than the others, as cold causes them swimming bladder trouble. Chapter Five Wholesale Breeding 62 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND WHOLESALE BREEDING With the rapidly growing demand for aquarium fishes there is no reason why, with the proper facilities, one should not make a comfortable living from the breeding of goldfishes and other fancy kinds. Good water, plenty of room, moderate taxes, ample shipping facilities and thorough experience in fish culture are all prime requisites. Climatic con- ditions must be carefully considered. The weather should be settled by May 15 and continue moderately warm until early October. Localities where the nights are cold or the days excessively hot are not suitable. States in the same temperature belt as Maryland and Virginia are particu- larly advantageous, although it is by no means to be said that success can- not be had elsewhere. Farmers in many localities are turriing otherwise unprofitable land both into goldfish and foodfish ponds. In the latter branch several of the State Fish Hatcheries are giving encouragement and practical help. It is not necessary to have an expensive establishment in order to succeed, but certain natural advantages, besides those already mentioned, are of importance. If one has a good spring, clay-bottom soil and ground that lends itself readily to a series of pools that will drain from one to another, a start can be made with reasonable chances of success. Our figure number 49 will give a good general idea of an inexpensive layout. The water runs from springhouse to a tempering pond, where the water becomes more heated by the air and sun. It also absorbs oxygen, for in this element spring water is apt to be lacking. Where no tempering pool is used it is advisable to arrange small waterfalls if there is sufficient drop. Even 2 or 3 inches is better than none. From the tempering pond the water is run through a series of sluices into the rearing ponds. As the fishes develop, some will grow much more rapidly than others. In order to prevent them from devouring their smaller fellows, they must con- stantly be sorted out, particularly in the first several weeks. These larger ones can be placed to advantage in the two long pools shown in illustra- tion, using one side for choice grades with good fin development, color, etc., and the other for single-tails or fish with blemishes. As a final use for the water it can be placed to advantage as shown in a large pond for the propagation of daphnia or other live food. The fish pools should be drained in the winter in order to expose the bottoms to the action of frost, thereby killing lurking insect enemies. We have shown an outlet on the daphnia pond, but ordinarily this is not to be emptied. By draining it the stock of live food would not be entirely lost, but many TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 63 daphnia eggs woulc be carried away and consequently it would take longer in the spring to dev2lop a stock large enough for practical use. If possi- ble it is a good plan to have two or more daphnia ponds, so that one may be A) Hiperesvse th Aas ANUS as) calla witht Angin ‘ wells Fic. 49. Farm Breepinc Ponps, SHowinc Detait or SLUICE AND GUARD replenished while the other is being drawn from. The bottom of daphnia pools should be prepared with a substantial layer of dead leaves and manure of any kind. Later in the season when this has all disintegrated, a new supply should be occasionally added. Any decomposing vegetal or animal substances will do. If a prowling cat has met accidental death by shooting, its carcass placed in the daphnia pond will give quite an im- 64 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND petus to the production of live fish food. For aesthetic reasons it would be well to weight the carcass down with stones. The plan of this system of pools does not call fer running water, but only to admit it as needed. It will be seen that an overflow is provided to carry off the surplus from the tempering pond, this finally discharging into the natural brook from the spring, or into any other place capable of carrying it off. By this plan of having one pool drain into another, instead of dis- charging into a general overflow, we have an added chance of saving fishes in case of an overflow or accident to the sluices. Unless a spring is known to be thoroughly dependable at all times, the possibility of securing water from other sources should be considered in the beginning, particularly as most establishments of the kind now being described are constructed only on clay bottoms, where a certain amount of water is sure to be lost through seepage. If the soil has no natural clay bottom, the hole should be dug 6 inches lower than the intended depth of pool, say 20 inches in all. Now mix pure clay with water in a mixing box and spread on bottom and sides to a depth of 6 inches. To secure the sides in this manner they will have to slope gradually. It is better to make the sides of cypress boards and puddle the clay in back of them. These had best be sloped at a slight angle, about 2 inches to a 14-inch board. Even when soil is mostly of clay, there is often serious loss of water near the top on account of the more porous earth. One very important consideration in all outdoor ponds or pools is the possibility of serious loss through freshets. Not only does the pool itself have a tendency to overflow in a protracted downpour, but drainage from higher portions of ground is liable to sweep over low ponds. The latter danger can be overcome by having ample trenches dug on the sides exposed to such risk, and seeing that they in turn drain off where the water will do no harm. In regard to direct overflow it is a good plan to have extra screened outlets in each pool at a point a little higher than the regular outlet, which is of course also screened according to the sizes of fishes contained. Another point is to have a safety factor by not filling to within 3 inches of the top. That is to say the regular drain should be placed at that level. The importance of the danger of flood in a system of this kind cannot be emphasized too strongly, and unless the point is care- fully provided for in the beginning, trouble is bound to ensue, and serious trouble. An advantage of the tempering pool is that fishes can be kept in it over Winter. Fishes bring better prices in the latter part of the Winter, and one of the serious problems of the wholesaler is how he shall carry a TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 65 large stock where it will be kept in good condition and will be available. If the spring has a good flow, the tempering pool can be kept comparatively free of ice and fish can be caught as wanted all Winter. With the use of ground-level ponds the snake, frog and rat have good chances of enjoying the luxury of feeding upon goldfishes, unless the vigilant breeder adopts effective means of keeping these pests under control. Ass stated in the former chapter, it is advisable to provide shade for the fishes. Trees at the right places would be beneficial but this cannot often be arranged. Aquatic plants, particularly water-lilies, are to be recommended. Plant life in a clay-bottom pool should be strictly limited to a few species, as some plants once obtaining a foothold can only be eradicated with the greatest difficulty. The plants to be used are Giant Anacharis, Myriophyllum, Cabomba, Ludwigia and Water Cress. All of these are desirable and furthermore find ready sale. Cyperus such as shown in illustration may be kept in pots. Specially Equipped Breeding Establishment. A more elaborate and considerably more expensive establishment is shown in our figure 50, consisting of greenhouse, indoor and outdoor concrete pools and all acces- sories going to make up a modern commercial fish-breeding plant. The tanks are 26 inches deep on the outside surface and are not sunk into the ground. This avoids the expense of so much excavating and makes a height which ordinarily cannot be scaled by rats, snakes or frogs. Tanks had best be covered by frames of screening, but these will sometimes be warped or placed on carelessly, thereby giving these particular enemies an opportunity. Let us repeat that galvanized screening should be scrubbed with a stiff brush and water before placing over any kind of fish con- tainer. The acid-flux used in making galvanized wire is extremely fatal to fishes, and unless precaution is taken, the first rain on new screening will wash the free acid among the fishes and cause wholesale deaths. Uniform size of compartments has several advantages, among which is interchangeability of screens or covers. Allowing 6 inches for the thick- ness of bottom will leave an inside depth of 20 inches, but under ordinary circumstances they should not be filled beyond 14 to 15 inches. With the outside tanks this gives a safety margin of several inches before a heavy downpour of rain causes the level to rise to the screened safety overflows one inch from the top. It also catches practically all of the rainwater of the season, which is excellent for the fishes. If the water becomes high it can be siphoned off from the bottom until original level is reached. The advantage of being able to fill up, if necessary, to 19 or 20 inches in an inside tank is that at certain seasons the greenhouse capacity for fishes is 66 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND taxed to the fullest. At such times the extra volume of water for the storage of fish stock will be keenly appreciated. An economy of space can be effected by building wooden tanks to stand over the section marked “Breeding Ponds” in figure 50, thus making two rows here instead of one. The wooden tanks should be somewhat narrower than the lower concrete pools. 4 ieee is ele is jes By 'y > sa{LiG1z=Te) Ceres Hs 5 a: < TR 8 &5 l eS eee lg % | ee SS Orrice ° § sess eee ee ea : ° 4 eas z REARING PONDS FOR LARGE YOUNGSTERS COMETS Live Fooo STo0cKn,. NYMPHS ETC. FANTAILS ORIVE WAY Fic. 50. WHOLESALE BREEDING ESTABLISHMENT, SHOWING GREENHOUSE AND OutTpoor CoNcrETE TANKS Goldfishes are hatched in the greenhouse from February until April. The young, as stated in the previous chapter, should not be placed out until the weather is settled, but there is a magic about outdoors which puts growth and vitality into the fish which the cunningest devices of temper- ature, plants, food, aeration, etc., cannot successfully imitate in the green- house. There has been much speculation as to why fishes do not do as well as might be expected in greenhouses. The author suggests that the water is too dead, owing to lack of evaporation, the atmosphere being already charged with dampness. Evaporation produces cold. The cold, oxygenated water drops to the bottom, thereby setting up a beneficial cir- TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 67 culation of re-vitalized water. Also there is more microscopic life falls on the water outside than indoors. A partial renewal of water in indoor tanks is undoubtedly beneficial and is one means of at least partially secur- ing that freshness of water which we have outdoors. Those handling fishes in wholesale quantities in greenhouse or other large indoor pools usually maintain a small spray of running water. This should in no sense be of sufficient quantity to be regarded as running water, but merely enough to add a trifle of freshness and oxygen. Stock accustomed to actual running water is liable to suffocate when placed in an ordinary aquarium. Retail dealers are not always conscientious in this matter. In order to carry a large stock in a small space they have to resort to a liberal use of running water. They dip fishes directly out of such tanks to sell for use in household aquaria, knowing full well that the chances of survival are poor. It is by no means impossible, or even difficult, to accustom such stock to still water, but the change should be brought about slowly. Frequent partial changes of water at first, gradually increasing the length of time between them, will accomplish the result. Some years ago Mr. Wm. P. Seal devised a fish-breeding house of a somewhat different character from the ordinary greenhouse, and the idea has been generally accepted as correct in principle. The structure is long and narrow, with solid roof. The lighting is from window sashes in the sides, these being swung or pivoted so as to admit the air in summer. The objections to the ordinary type of greenhouse are, first, too much light for fishes and plants, producing an excessive growth of alge (including green water) ; second, high cost of heating in cold weather and too much heat in the warm season; third, attendant risks due to glass breaking from various accidents, including, in some sections, large Summer hailstones. Where an all-glass greenhouse is used, different methods are employed to cut down the light in Summer. The principal one is to coat glass on the outside with a mixture of white lead and gasoline. The chief objection to the long-narrow type house with opaque roof is that it is not compact and multiplies walking steps. A successful modi- fication in nearly square form has been worked out, in which enough light is secured in the centre of the building by a series of skylights in the roof, comprising about one-quarter of the roof area. When the windows or sashes are open they should be fitted with in- side screens of 14 inch mesh to keep out insect enemies but admit gnats and other forms of insects which, together with their larve, form an important item of fishfood. The most satisfactory form of heating is with the hot-water system, this being much more flexible than steam, and cheaper to operate. Modern invention has produced automatic heat-control devices which can be 68 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND installed at moderate cost. These are extremely vauable in guarding against the dangers of sudden cold spells at night, particularly where tropical fishes are kept or when young goldfishes have been hatched in the late winter or early spring months. Oil stoves are not to be recom- mended and should only be used in emergencies. The carbonic product of combustion while small in quantity is, nevertheless, injurious. Water absorbs most gases very freely. The cement floors of fish houses should be provided with gutters next to the tanks, these all draining to a single point so that the floors can easily be flushed down. A description of methods of building concrete ponds and tanks will be found on page 220. Commercial Breeding of Tropical Fishes. The detailed descriptions of breeding habits described on pages 92 to 100 will give a practical working basis for anyone wishing to enter this field commercially. There are, however, a few generalizations which ought to be of value here. In Nature the fishes manage to reproduce themselves without the help of man. The three principal reasons are because they have water of the proper temperature, food of the right character and plenty of opportunity for the young to hide. All of the conditions can be produced artificially. The European breeders use tubs, introduce a thick growth of plants, place in One or more pairs of breeders as occasion demands, feed plenty of daphnia, mosquito larve, etc., and disturb the fishes as little as possible. In the absence of greenhouses the tubs are sunk in the ground, covered with wire netting in warm weather and with glass on cool nights or days. Quite large tanks are sometimes used, placing different species with the same breeding habits together, not attempting to sort out the various young until fall. In the livebearing groups there is no likelihood of hybridization if males and females of the same species are both present. Some fishes do not like plants and will tear them out (cichlide group, for instance), but as a rule the young very early appreciate their value and quickly hide among them. They also hunt sloping, shallow edges where the larger fishes cannot follow, particularly if Salvinia or other small floating plants are along the edge. A continuous, warm temperature is imperative for some species and for these it is not worth while attempting to breed outdoors in a temperate climate. In selecting a stock to breed from for commercial purposes it is inadvisable to choose the species which have already become common, even though they are easy to breed. It is much better to pay more for some- thing out of the ordinary if there seems to be a reasonable chance of breeding it. The “fashions” change so rapidly in tropical fishes that we could not attempt here to advise what to breed, as our book would be likely to look old by the time it is off press. Chapter Six Some Hardy Native Freshwater Aquarium Fishes 70 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND NATIVE AQUARIUM FISHES It seems to be human nature, especially in America, to assume that the best things come from distant lands—the more distant, the better. In this search for the rare and interesting we are apt to overlook excellent material close at hand. There are many handsome native fishes admirably adapted to aquarium purposes. They are easily managed, tenacious of life, varied in habits and easily tamed. Those who have made collections of our own fishes have found much pleasure in this form of the aquarium hobby. THE RED-BELLIED DACE Chrosomus erythrogaster, not exceeding a length of three inches is one of the most satisfactory of hardy aquarium inhabitants. During the breeding season the belly, mouth and base of the dorsal fin of the males Fic. 51. Rep-Bettiep Dace (Life size) are bright red. There are two black lateral lines on the sides, separated by a band of pale gold, so that even when not in breeding colors, the Red-Bellied Dace is an individual of attractive appearance. It is per- fectly harmless, will eat any prepared food and is of active habits. Native to the small streams of the Middle West. They are believed to be community breeders requiring large space. The author placed six of them in a 3 x 5 foot tank in May and several months later took out 30 well developed young, but the breeding was not observed. Owing to their extreme agility it is necessary to catch the wild stock in a minnow seine, operated by two persons. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 71 THE ROSY-SIDED DACE Leuciscus vandoisulus One of the less known, but very attractive aquarium fishes is the Rosy-Sided Dace. The general color is silvery to green. A nearly black lateral line runs the length of the body, and below this on the males is a long patch of red, starting from the edge of the gills, as shown in illustration. This varies in intensity from day to day, and is brightest from February until September. As these fishes dart about the aquarium Fic. 52. Rosy-Sipep Dace (Life size) the flame-like appearance of the red patches is most striking. Even when not in color there is an interesting bronze-green effect to the scales at the lateral line. This is always visible by reflected light, and seems to show mostly at night. If the light is turned on them at night they show very little red color, but in a few minutes it is quite plain. The Rosy-Sided Dace is a large minnow and takes kindly to the aquarium and is perfectly harmless, but unless plenty of room is pro- vided it will slowly decline. Found in clear cool brooks, from the foot- hills of the Alleghenies to the Carolinas. THE BLACK-NOSED DACE Rhinicthys atronasus The Black-Nosed Dace is one of the best of our native fishes for aquarium purposes. Found in abundance in small swift-running streams of the Delaware Valley, it is an extremely active swimmer and not easily caught unless cornered in a small pocket. From constant swimming against the current it has developed some specialized kind of balance, so that when introduced into the still water of the aquarium, the forward part of the body continually drops so a level position is only main- tained by an effort. This condition disappears in a few weeks and a new equilibrium becomes established. 72 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND The Black-Nosed Dace is well rounded and full of body, the belly is clear white and the black band encircling the body is quite intense. It is perfectly harmless and will take almost any food. It is quite sub- ject to a parasite which embeds itself deeply in the sides of the fish, pro- Fic. 53. Bracx-Nosep Dace (Enlarged one-quarter) ducing an appearance that can best be described as looking like “fly- specks.” This is common to many of the small wild fishes, and while it is not known to have any serious results it is unsightly. Specimens free from the parasite should be chosen where possible. The usual length is from two to three inches. They have been known to survive in the aquarium for several years. THE STICKLEBACK Froebel, the writer of kindergarten fame, in telling the children of the civilized world the life story of the stickleback, has given great promi- Fic, 54. THe Stickresack (Enlarged twice) nence to this interesting little fish. The interest centres chiefly in the breeding habits. Sticklebacks are nest-builders. The male is architect, contractor and workman. He selects a suitable location, and by tireless efforts gathers together bits of plants, refuse, etc., and makes them into TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 73 the form of a ring with a roof over it, leaving only an opening for the female to enter to deposit her eggs. The nest is glued together by a sticky substance exuded from the body of the male fish, who assumes a bright red color in parts of the fins at this period. After the female has deposited her eggs he drives her away, looking after the nest and young himself until they are about 10 days old. He is very pugnacious at this time and will attack any living thing that approaches. Different species probably vary somewhat in details of breeding habits, An English authority claims that in Nature the male persuades as many females as possible to deposit their eggs in his nest. The Stickleback is well known as an aquarium fish, but it should nct be kept with other fishes. It prefers to eat daphnia or bits of small worms. THE CHAETODON Chaetodons build their nests directly among plants off the bottom. These fish are less of fighters and depend more upon hiding their young Fic. 55. Tue Cuaetopon (Enlarged one-quarter) than upon boldly protecting them. The Chadetodon is one of the most charming of all aquarium fishes. Many of them are exported to Europe, where they are highly esteemed and bring good prices. This fish has quite an individuality—its peculiar markings, precise movements and genteel manners setting it quite apart from most other fishes. It swims principally by use of the pectoral fins, which are so transparent as to be scarcely observable, giving the fish the appearance of moving about by 74 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND will-power, without physical effort. Chaetodons greatly prefer live daphnia to all other foods. If fed upon them regularly it is difficult to get them to touch anything else, starvation under these circumstances not being uncommon. They do fairly well on dried shrimp once they take it. THE SUNFISH The Sunfish is one of the most widely distributed and best known of our freshwater fishes, American boys being well acquainted with them. Most of us have seen the tidy, clean spots fanned out by a pair of sun- fishes. This is the “nest” in which the eggs are deposited. Both parents protect the young, attacking all comers in a vicious manner. Excepting the Chaetodon, or black-banded sunfish, all of the several species are Pugnacious, especially when large. They should not be kept with other fishes unable to protect themselves and it is inadvisable to have one much larger than its fellows, as it will “bully” the other inmates of the aqua- Fic. 56. THe Common SunrisH rium. Sunfishes have a decided carnivorous tendency, much preferring live worms or flies to prepared foods. In winter they will take shreds of raw liver. Of the dry foods, ground dried shrimp is the best for them. The coloring of the sunfish shows to excellent advantage in the aqua- rium, and it will be found a very tame and interesting pet. It can with- stand severe temperature changes and will survive for years if suitably fed. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 15 THE SILVERFIN Of all the native fishes tried in the aquarium by the writer the Silverfin (Notropis analostanus) stands out as one of the most satis- factory. For aquarium purposes the male fish should be selected. The ends of their fins are of a whitish, phosphorescent color from May till September. Darting around in the aquarium, their sleek bodies overcast with a pale steel-blue, and sides laced with black edgings of ‘scales they make a most attractive appearance. Two of them will often indulge in what appears to be a game of tag, during which they will chase each other around a short circle, producing the effect of a pinwheel. Fic. 57. THE SILVERFIN oR SATINFIN (Slightly enlarged) A 50-gallon aquarium, with plenty of open space, containing about fifteen adult male silverfins is most fascinating. They are very hardy, tame, and will eat any prepared food. Harm- less to other fishes. They may be caught in the open reaches of the fresh tidal portion of the Delaware as well as its upland tributaries. Silverfins have been kept in aquaria for several years, but care should be exercised to cover with a screen to prevent their leaping out. The Darter The darters have no swimming bladders and are therefore consider- ably heavier than water. They move along the bottom in jerky motions somewhat like hopping. When in reach of their prey they make a short leap. Although this seems to be short of the object they always succeed in getting what they go after. One would imagine them to have a long tongue like a frog, moving with invisible rapidity. There is something quaint and droll about the darters. The majority of them cannot stand warm water. 5 76 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND Tue Rainzow Darter Esteoma coerulea is probably the most bril- liantly colored of our native fishes, being barred with red, blue, orange and green in most striking fashion. On account of its brilliant coloring it is Fic. 58. Tue Darter (Enlarged nearly twice) known as the Soldier Fish. It occurs in shallow streams of the Middle West. Extremely fond of daphnia or very small worms, but may be- come educated to taking shreds of raw meat. They can be kept success- fully and are well worth the trouble. THE KILLIFISH Killifish, both fresh and saltwater forms are among the most hardy of the smaller fishes. Used largely as bait-fish on account of their tenacity of life, they exhibit the same quality in the aquarium, standing Fic. 59. THe KiLiirisH or BULLHEAD MINNow (Enlarged one-half) very bad treatment before succumbing. The barred sides and fleeting irridescent colors are most attractive, particularly in the saltwater form of Fundulus diaphanus. They will eat anything and are harmless to other aquarium fishes. Boys usually know this fish in streams as the “bull-head” minnow, while the popular name on the New Jersey coast for the saltwater form is “Mummychug.” Size 3 to 4 inches. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES OEE THE GOLDEN ORFE OR IDE Originally imported from Southern Germany, the Golden Orfe has become one of the best ornamental pond fishes. They do not stir up the mud as do goldfishes and are more active in avoiding their enemies. Fic. 60. Tue GotpeN OrFE or IDE (Young) The color on the back is orange dotted with black, shading to lighter on the sides and white on the abdomen. The extreme length is two feet, requiring probably ten years of growth under favorable circumstances. The young are suitable for aquarium keeping, but the top must be screened to prevent their leaping out. They do best in spring or running water and have been successfully bred in the Government fish ponds at Washington. THE CATFISH Any of the forms of Catfishes are well able to take care of them- selves in an aquarium. If not large they will not touch other wild fishes, Fic. 61. Stone CATFISH but should not be kept with goldfishes, as they are likely to nibble at their long fins. Catfishes like animal food best, but will take boiled cereals. 78 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND THE GOLDEN TENCH Tinca aureus. As a showy fish of golden orange hue the Golden Tench is con- sidered second only to the goldfish itself. Covered with exceedingly fine scales and dotted with black it presents by reflected light an irridescent SS Fic. 62. THe Tencn (Young) effect, comparable to that of an opal. By transmitted light they are sufficiently translucent to show the skeleton and internal organs. Al- though timid they become quite tame and will live on any kind of fish- food. Harmless to other fishes and otherwise thoroughly desirable. Tenches should be bred in open ponds with mud bottoms. The Green Tench is the ancestor of the Golden Tench and differs principally in coloring, its color being of a bottle-green character. “Tench-green” is a popularly recognized shade of color in some parts of Europe. Tenches are liberally supplied with protective slime and it is believed by some that fishes injured by accident search out a tench to rub the injured part against. For this reason it has been known as the “Doctor Fish.” fy gan a a eis i) in enn ae PFE WER EAN spd % yi Aye os IRON DE no f UP = st Fic. 63. THe Sucker (Young) TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 79 THE SUCKER As a novelty the Sucker may be kept in an aquarium. It is by no means a handsome fish, appearing somewhat awkward and clumsy. Pre- ferring vegetable foods, it will also take earthworms. In habits it is perfectly harmless. wy Fic. 64. THe SHINER THE ROACH, OR SHINER Here we again have one of the very hardy small aquarium fishes. It is decidedly active, and if kept in a bright light shows its brilliant silvery sides to advantage. The Roach is seldom still and has a stimulat- ing effect upon the more lethargic members of a general collection. It is of a gentle nature and is not at all particular as to what it is fed. Fic. 65. Tue Cuun (Young) THE CHUB Not usually known as an aquarium fish the Chub, in the smaller sizes, does very well and may be kept with other fishes whether small or large. It is a nest-builder, but requires a much larger space than is to be thought of in an ordinary aquarium. The Horned Dace, or Creek- Chub, is the most lively, and is the best species for the aquarium. Chubs are vegetarians, thriving on boiled cereals or white wafer food. 80 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND THE MULLET Sometimes known as the Chubsucker, the Mullet in the smaller sizes makes a satisfactory aquarium fish, entirely harmless and of rather Fic. 66. THe Mutiet (Young) attractive appearance. The back is green, sides are yellow and abdomen is white. May be fed on ordinary fishfood but has pronounced vegetarian tendencies. Fic. 67. THE Common EEL (Young) THE EEL Small eels may be kept with a collection of wild fishes, but they look out of place with and are dangerous to goldfishes, having the same habit as the sunfish and catfish of nibbling at the long fins. They are good scavengers, quickly eating any dead snails or other decomposing matter. Nothing is too bad (nor too good) for them to greedily eat. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 81 THE SOLE Achirus fasciatus Among the interesting novelties in aquarium fishes is the Sole, often known as the Freshwater Flounder. Aquarists popularly call it the Aero- plane Fish on account of its easy, horizontal progress through the water, the swimming being accomplished mainly by an undulating motion of the fins at the edges of the body, as shown in the two upper figures of the accompanying illustration. The third figure indicates the under side of Fic. 68. THe Soe (Young) the fish, while the lowest pictures the Sole as it lays half concealed in the mud. In the aquarium these fishes frequently fasten themselves flat to the sides of the glass by suction. They may be gathered from the muddy flats of tidewater streams of the Atlantic Coast. Chopped worms make a suitable diet for them. Sizes such as pictured are good aquarium in- habitants. THE CARP The Carp is one of the most widely known of fishes. Its tenacity of life is extraordinary considering that it is not an air-breather or laby- rinth fish. When sold as a food fish it is kept alive for a day or two when barely moistened with water. Common goldfishes well wrapped in wet Anacharis or Myriophyllum and packed in a tight tin box can safely be sent on a 12-hour journey or more. A number of varieties of carp are kept as ornamental pond and large aquarium fishes. The principal ones are the Mirror, the Leather and the Golden Carp. There are in this country at the present time some 82 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND extremely handsome fancy carp of Japanese breeding, having blue backs, red sides, white bellies, and with the large irregularly placed scales of the Mirror Carp. It is to be hoped these will be propogated here. THE CARNIVOROUS FISHES The Pike, Bass, Perch and other predaceous fishes are not suited to the household aquarium, although small ones are sometimes kept. If fed upon meat it is important that no uneaten particles be allowed to remain. COLLECTING IN STREAMS AND PONDS There are pleasures connected with the stocking of a wild-fish aquarium which are unknown to those interested only in goldfishes. The actual contact with Nature, the study of the fishes in their native habitat, the ever-present possibility of finding something new, the companionship and health afforded on outings are some of the more important assets of the collector. For this work two kinds of nets should be provided. These consist of a minnow seine and a large landing net of small mesh, fitted with a sectional rod. The seine should be operated by two persons. Poles are attached to the lower lines containing the sinkers, while the float line is pulled forward by the hand, slightly behind the lower line. They can be operated with great success in any shallow stream where the fish can be manceuvered into a corner for the final sweep. Care should be exercised to put back all fish not actually wanted, and also not to try to carry so many home that they all suffocate before arrival. The landing net is used mainly in streamlets. It is operated by a quick overhead swoop and the net pulled rapidly over the bottom towards the fisherman. The net should be of a depth of about 25 inches and had best be secured to the frame by brass rings of about 5% inch diameter, procurable in upholstery stores. These prevent the cutting of the net when dragging over stones. Very little success can be had by scooping upwards. Chapter Seven Alphabetical List of the Principal Aquarium Fishes From Tropical and Temperate Waters, followed by a Description of their Requirements, Peculiarities and Breeding Habits Note.—A number of the foreign dealers in their catalogues use obsolete scientific names of fishes. As these books have heretofore been the only source of information to many fanciers, we include the old designations in this list, bracket- ing them, as far as possible, with the correct names. 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Witp Anacnaris (Life size) 174 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND characteristic which, at least in the aquarium, should be considered a favorable point—that is—rapid growth. It may generally be taken for granted that if an aquatic plant is thriving, it is doing good work for the aquarium. In form it is moss-like, the leaves growing on a fragile stem, the entire plant being completely submerged at all periods. Several spe- cies are distributed throughout the United States and Southern Canada. A cultivated variety, probably derived from A. canadensis, is considerably larger than the common local specimens to be found. The closeness of the leaves together depends upon the strength of light in which the plant is kept, the difference being so pronounced that sections of the same plant divided and kept in ‘strong and weak light conditions will soon appear so different as to be scarcely recognizable as the same stock. The plant grows several feet in length, sending off occasional shoots and a few roots at random that reach down into the soil. In the aquarium it is best to only retain from 6 to 15 inches of the newer growth, cutting away the old ends, re-bunching and re-planting. Planting is a matter of little concern to Anacharis. In a well-lighted aquarium, where it will not be nibbled at by large fishes, it will prosper whether planted or not, particu- larly if not kept too warm. Anacharis is an excellent oxygenator and is a good plant for the beginner or for those who want to add variety to their aquarium vegetation. Allowed to grow into a mass it forms perfect hiding places for young fishes, as it does not grow so close but that they may move about in it. To be had of dealers generally. CABOMBA Commercially there is no doubt Cabomba is the leading aquatic plant. Its finely-cut, fan-like, bright green leaves make a very good first impres- sion, although it does not long look so well in the aquarium. It is brittle and the fishes if active soon pick it to shreds. Even though this does not occur, it becomes long and spindly. Enormous quantities are gathered from ponds, some of them purposely planted, from Maryland to North Carolina. The plant under natural conditions is a good producer of oxygen, but in the aquarium its activity in this respect is doubtful. Although its use is recommended by many writers, the author’s experience and obser- vation lead him to take exception to their views. Cabomba caroliniana is the species usually sold in bunches in pet shops. It is well known as Washington Grass, Fanwort, and Watershield. In habit it is purely aquatic and propagates mainly by branching. The stems under natural conditions attain a length of several feet. Cabomba roseafolia is a species whose principal distinguishing char- acteristic consists of a distinct reddish hue on the stems and lower sides of the leaves. It too is a handsome plant when first introduced. 175 TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES Fic. 122. Curtivatep Anacuaris (Life sizc) Fic. 123. Casompa (Life size) 176 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND MYRIOPHYLLUM Here we have another plant which at first looks well in the aquarium but which deteriorates rapidly. It has, however, a strong redeeming feature, the very finely divided hair-like leaves being ideal for receiving the spawn of goldfishes. For this purpose it has grown more and more into favor. It is used either in the bunches as they are sold, or made into a spawning-ring as shown on page 51. As a spawn-receiving plant it has one advantage over Water Hyacinth in that the individual pieces may be spread out so as to give all the eggs a similiar amount of sun, whereas with Hyacinth one side is usually much more protected than the other, making the eggs hatch at different times. Before using Myriophyllum to spawn on it should be well washed off by moving it about in clear water, being careful to remove all insects, snails and snail eggs. When spawning is finished the plant had as well be thrown away. There are a number of generally distributed species throughout America, all having the same general characteristics, but some are better than others as “spawning grass” on account of clo,-~ and longer leaves. They are all popularly known as Water Milfoil. a Myriophyllum verticillatum. This is the best American species and is found in both shallow and deep ponds throughout the United States and Lower Canada. Its leaves are dense and crowded, making an excel- lent spawning plant. JZ. nietschei is a cultivated variety of the same, the leafy filaments developing from 114 to 3 inches in length. Myriophyllum proserpinacoides or Parrot’s Feather is a partially sub- merged form which should be allowed to creep on the surface of the water, where its blue-green, feathery leaves display a charm exclusively their own. Does well in the greenhouse or established on the edges of partially shaded lakes, where it becomes very robust and looks strikingly beautiful. The roots are not winter-killed. On account of growing so rapidly it requires too much attention in a small aquarium. CERATOPHYLLUM Hornwort, as it is generally known, is mentioned here on account of its resemblance to Myriophyllum, for which it is sometimes gathered. It is an extremely poor aquarium plant, being very brittle and liable to rapid decomposition. Besides its characteristic of being fragile it may also be recognized by having practically no roots, absorption taking place in the leaves. It is found principally in ponds and slow moving streams, where it washes about freely with the current. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 177 UTRICULARIA Many species of Bladderwort are distributed throughout the Temper- ate Zone. They have somewhat the appearance of the finely-divided leaves of Myriophyllum, but may be identified by the small bladders dotted throughout. Our figure 125 of U. vulgaris gives a good idea of the general type. They thrive in the aquarium if given plenty of strong light. The Bladderworts are carnivorous plants, trapping the micro- scopic lower forms of animal life in their bladders, where they are di- gested. It has been claimed that they can trap extremely small fishes, es ~< > J, S8 x } ile & y Yew CS if ie < WS Ms \ ) A) My AS S RS Ki S ) XS \{R NN Fic, 124, MyRiopHYLLUM NIETSCHEI (Slightly reduced) Fic. 125. GREATER BLappERWoRT (Reduced one-third) such as the young of Dwarf Gourami, but we do not know that this has ever been definitely proven. There can be no doubt, however, that the plant does take living food which would be useful to young fishes, and to that extent is objectionable in the aquarium. 178 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND HAIR GRASS Eriocaulon septangulare, a dainty hair-like aquatic of recent intro- duction, fills small tropical aquaria in an agreeable manner. It is another of those plants forming a useful adjunct to the breeding of tropical fishes. It multiplies rapidly from short runners and is a good oxygenator. Of Fic. 126. Hair Grass (Life size) a pleasing shade of light green it makes a contrasting group among other plants in a large aquarium, but it shows to best advantage in a small aquarium by itself. It grows from 3 to 8 inches and is native to ponds in the Middle Atlantic and Southern States. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 17 we) S | 2 Fic. 134. Herevestis (Life size) Fic. 135. Spring Starwort (Life size) 186 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND HERPESTIS Herpestis amplevicaulis bears a general resemblance to Moneywort, but in essential characteristics is quite different. It is a pure aquatic with thick leaves and a stout stem. Native to the ponds of Southeastern United States as far as Florida. It is one of the best of recent additions to aquarium plants. On account of being a slow grower its introduction is not likely to be rapid, but once established it does very well, holding its bright green leaves a long time. When out of the water it has a pleasant faint odor. Being of Southern origin it will prosper in the temperature of tropical aquaria where some plants will not do so well, although it thrives in cool water also. Incorrectly known as Bacopa. CALLITRICHE Floating in small, cool streams throughout the United States and Lower Canada one will find patches of brilliant, light-green small leaves. Examination will show them to be the floating leaves of a long-stemmed plant growing in the mud. These are various forms of Callitriche, or Spring Starwort, sometimes also called Water Fennel. When the plant is loosened we find it disappointing, for the lower leaves are thinner and quite different in appearance. The stems are tangled and difficult to disengage. Callitriche verna is the commonest form, as well as the most easily established in the aquarium, but it shows to best advantage in shallow tanks where a top view can be had of the surface leaves. It should, how- ever, only be kept with tropical fishes unless it is intentionally given to goldfishes to eat, as they are fond of it. The stems and roots when taken are usually swarming with various aquatic insects and crustacea. Although many of these are good fishfood it is best to thoroughly rinse this and all other plants before placing in the aquarium. HIPPURIS Formerly used as an aquarium plant, Mare’s Tail has been over- looked of recent years, possibly on account of its tendency to stand above the water. Used in a suitable way this feature could be utilized to advantage. It transplants well and will thrive under varying conditions, but does best in ample light. Occurs in swamps from Labrador to Maine and also the Pacific Coast. MONEYWORT Lysmachia nummilaria or Moneywort is also known as Wandering Jew, Creeping Jenny and Herb-twopence, the latter name and Moneywort no doubt being derived from the rounded shape of the leaves. It is com- TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 187 IS Fic. 136. Mare's Tair (Life size) Fic. 137. Moneywort (Life size) 188 ; GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND mon in all the Eastern States, growing in damp places, usually near or bordering streams. Considering that it is scarcely even a bog plant it does remarkably well in the aquarium, where it grows straight up to the surface of the water, regardless of where the light comes from. It is a fair oxygenator, but if kept submerged the leaves gradually dwindle in size, so that it is best to gather a new stock once a year, August or September being the best season to secure vigorous plants. QUILLWORT Isoetes is a widely distributed genus of a number of species. It is found in the mud and sand at the edges of streams and ponds. In size it Fy, e Fj) IN ‘ oA LAID S| L Kevin < Wh Fic. 138. Quittwort (Reduced one-half) varies from a few inches to several feet. The small submerged species are worth trying in the aquarium, as they are tenacious of life. The leaves rise from the centre of a circle or rosette, producing a very pretty effect. Quillwort should be placed in a good light. It is eaten by some snails and fishes. as TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 189 190 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND HETERANTHERA Heteranthera sosteracfolia is a very light green plant, slightly re- sembling Anacharis, but with longer, more widely separated leaves. It is a rapid grower, soon reaching the top, where it lays limp on the surface of the water. A good oxygenator, but has never become very popular on account of its rambling, untidy habits. Can occasionally be had of dealers. LACE PLANT This extraordinary plant, Ouciranda fenestralis, is a native of Mada- gascar. Its dark-green skeleton leaves appear very fragile, but in reality they are the toughest-leaved aquarium plant we know of. They are slow S a Ses = Sse fay ha = = x i x | ee S = = . Cy Sy <= ~ S Wi) a * eo: “EE, Ni fae A = ., VY/Aa) —" x PLES Ye e V4 ‘ tee i U, o TH s Po & R Sa ~ = ity ‘S : U, = > i r= Dp ey Ee S GG Gp G \ i i) | f \\ \. Fie. 140. Mapacascar Lace PLANT WW (Life size, half-grown) of growth and prefer a subdued light. Propagation is by division at the root. This sometimes takes place in the aquarium, but they do best in wooden tanks. At best they are slow growers which in a way is an ad- vantage, for they eventually become rather large. The Lace- or Lattice- leaf plant is used purely for ornamental purposes, its qualities as an oxy- genator being negligible. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES Fic. 141. Water Popry (Reduced one-half) \ Fic. 142. Duckweep (Life size) ! ] Fic. 144. CrystaLtwort (Life size) WATER POPPY 191 Limnocharis humboldti, owing to its generally satisfactory qualities, has become one of the most popular plants in the indoor and outdoor tank, as well as the large aquarium. It grows very rapidly and continu- ously sends out new plants which have groups of buds. Usually a new bud blooms every day. The 3-petaled yellow flower with a brown eye or centre only lasts a few hours but is a most pleasing and artistic feature. The parent plant should be potted, preferably not very deeply in the water. The new plants run at the surface, occasionally sending down strong stems to obtain a fresh rooting. 192 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND Floating Aquatics DUCKWEED > This commonest of all floating plants is found in several species in still pools everywhere. From the middle of summer until cold weather many ponds are completely covered with this green mantle, greatly in- terfering with the work of collecting daphnia for fish food. Duckweed itself is a good food for goldfishes large enough to eat it, and has a laxative effect beneficial to the finer breeds. The form most commonly found is Lemna minor. Propagation is by offshoot extensions. AZOLLA Azolla caroliniana is one of the less used of small floating aquatics. It is not in any way a brilliant plant but has a rather quaint charm. The leaves are of velvety appearance and range from a dull sage-green to dark red, according to age and the conditions of light. To be had of dealers. Native to the Southern States. CRYSTALWORT Riccia fluitans grows in masses in small, angular shapes, resembling crystal formation. It floats just beneath the surface and is valuable in the propagation of small tropical fishes, some depositing eggs in it, and the new-born young of the live-bearing varieties using it for hiding places. Native to the Eastern States and may be had of dealers in aquatics. Fic. 145. Satvinia (Life sisc) Fic. 146, Trranea (Slightly reduced) TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 193 SALVINIA Of the small floating aquatics Salvinia is one of the best. The heart- shaped leaves with bristle-like growth on the upper surface seem like bits of velvet connected by a thread. The roots are naturally long for the size of the plant but fishes usually eat them down to about half length, which interferes with a full development of size. In the greenhouse where they have a moist atmosphere and no interference they develop with amazing rapidity. The variety illustrated, Salvinia natans, is native to Europe and is the form commonly used in aquaria and pools. Although it is claimed that neither Salvinia nor the common wild Duckweed perform any oxygenating function, the author and others have many times seen aquaria completely covered with either of these plants and, with no other plants in the aquarium, the fishes were getting along perfectly well. FROGBIT Hydrocharis morsus-rane, requiring the same conditions as Trianea bogotensis, deserves more attention than it is receiving. Of very pretty appearance when in flower, readily obtained from dealers, there is wage Fic. 147. Frocpir (Life size) 194 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND no reason why it should not be better known. As will be noted in Figure 147 it propagates from runners, but the seeds also germinate under favorable conditions. The plant is of European introduction. TRIANEA Trianea bogotensis is an attractive, small floating plant with thick, heart-shaped leaves. It needs a moist warm atmosphere and not too much direct sun. Under these conditions it thrives and is a valued feature in the summer pool or greenhouse tank. It is not found locally in temperate climate but may be had of dealers. WATER FERN Not looking particularly fern-like, the Water Fern, Ceratopteris thalictroides, is the only truly aquatic species of the fern family. It is of comparatively recent introduction into the aquarium and indoor pool, a "a a> W), Cee ‘ Ves Fic. 148. Water Fern (Reduced) it being more suited to the latter. In a partially shaded position in the greenhouse it grows into floating masses a foot or more in diameter, piling up to some height on account of its peculiar means of reproduction, TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 195 the new plants springing directly out of the parent leaves, as is shown in Figure 148. Ordinarily the plants are about 6 inches in diameter and are of very pleasing appearance. Native to the Tropics around the world. WATER LETTUCE Pistia stratiotes is a floating plant with fluted, light-green velvety leaves, forming a rosette. It likes plenty of heat, a moist atmosphere and protection from the sun. Under favorable conditions it grows to a Fic. 149. Water Lettuce (Reduced one-quarter) diameter of about 4 inches or more and is decidedly pretty. The roots sometimes attain a length of 18 inches, but they are not sufficiently dense to use for spawning purposes. Multiplies rapidly in a congenial environment. WATER CHESTNUT Probably obtaining its popular name from the serrated edges of the leaves somewhat resembling those of the Chestnut tree, Trapa natans forms one of the pleasing varieties among floating aquatics. It is an annual doing well in exposed out-door positions. New plants are pro- 196 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND ANY yy AA Dr Mh i AE MLD i UY ip Fic. 149a. Water CHESTNUT duced each year from large, hard seeds. The big, black. two-horned seeds sometimes sold in Chinese stores are of a closely related species of Trapa. Can be had of dealers after May 15. WATER HYACINTH Although Water Hyacinth, Eichhornia, is considered a pest in its native habitat on account of clogging up rivers and lakes, it is none the less a favorite with the aquarist, especially the breeder of goldfishes. Its long, finely divided dense roots are admirable for receiving the eggs of any fishes that spawn on plants. The pale purple flower-spike only blooms for a single day but is quite beautiful, having the general form of its namesake, the Hyacinth. Propagation is by runners at the surface of the water. Figure 150 clearly shows this. Water Hyacinths do best if their roots can root or drag in soil. Outdoors they do not like to be blown about nor to strike against the sides of a tank, although apparently not minding how closely they are crowded together. This plant does well in a warm greenhouse the year round. Unless supplied with plenty of light and heat during the winter they degenerate very much. Fic. 150. Water HyacintH, SHowinc Detain or FLowkeR AND THE FormMaATION or aA NEw PLant Fie. 151. Harpy Waite Water LiLty (7 uberosa richardsoni) TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 199 WATER LILY CULTURE All fish pools or large tanks standing in the sun should have water lilies growing in them. They are of easy culture and not only give pro- tection to the fish but add greatly to appearances. Small or large varities may be had, according to the needs of the space. Water lilies are divided into the tender and hardy varieties. The tenders are more free-blooming and the day-blooming tenders are the most fragrant, as well as presenting the greatest range of color. They usually open in the fore part of the morning and close in mid afternoon. The night bloomers open in the evening and close about nine in the morning. They are not fragrant nor as elegant as the day-bloomers, but they are called the business man’s water lily because he can see them in bloom in the evening and in the morning. Water lilies need extremely rich soil. A mixture of half clay and half cow manure suits them very well. An inch top layer of sand will prevent any of this soil from getting into the water. The crown of the plant should not be covered and ought to be about 12 to 14. inches below surface of the water. They need an abundance of sunlight. Before freezing weather sets in the tender plants should be taken up. Close to the main root will be found a few tubers about the size of shellbarks. These are the starts for next season’s plants. They are to be broken off and kept in cool water or moist sand. In April they may be laid in shallow, warm water until sprouted, then placed in submerged pots and later permanently planted out in June. Hardy water lily roots only need be kept moist and from actual freezing. In a pond they may be left out. In early Spring they form a number of new crowns. The parent root should be cut up into pieces, allowing a crown to each piece. Plant only one crown to a pot. Let all water lily pots be as large as space will permit. Most tenders will grow and bloom in a 7-inch bulb pan in an ordinary tub, but they are dwarfed from lack of space. They will do better in a box about a foot deep by thirty inches square, or in a hole 18 inches wide and 20 inches deep, as shown in Figure 163. Tropical water lilies have a surprising degree of intelligence in adapting themselves to the size of the pool they are in. The ordinary hardy water lilies if given as much space as they can use will have a surface diameter of about 4 feet. The usual tropicals vary from 10 to 15 feet, but will do well in pools of 6-foot diameter. In the maze of offerings and alluring descriptions of water lilies, the beginner is at a loss to know what to select. We present a list of the most satisfactory varieties in each class. Most of them sell at mod- erate prices and can be had of either of the two leading dealers, Dreer’s at Riverton, N. J., or Wm. Tricker, Arlington, N. J. 290 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND Hardy WuiteE: Gladstoniana, Marliacea albida, Richardsoni. Pink: Marliacea rosea. YELLOW: Marliacea chromatella. Rep: Paul Hariot, Gloriosa, Aurora, James Brydon. Tender Day-Blooming Waite: Gracilis. Pink: Mrs. C. W. Ward. Biue: Pennsylvania, Wm. Stone, Pulcherrima. Puree: Zanzibariensis. Tender Night-Blooming Waite: Dentata magnifica. Pink: O’Marana. Rep: Rubra, Devonensis. Winter-Blooming (Indoor) Brive: Mrs. Woodrow Wilson, Panama Pacific. Small Hardys Pygmaea (white), Pygmaea helvola (yellow), Laydeckeri lilacea (rosy lilac), Laydeckeri rosea (pink to red). OTHER POND PLANTS Lotuses (Nelumbiums) Album grandiflorum (white), Luteum (yellow), Speciosum (rose), Pekinensis (red). The culture of Nelumbiums requires more root-space than for water lilies. Planted in a shallow pond where they have plenty of space for the strong roots to branch out and travel, they prosper amazingly. They are hardy over winter, and if it is desired to confine them to a certain space or locality they should be boarded in or otherwise divided from the rest of the pond. The roots go several feet deep. The Lotus is one of the most beautiful of all decorative plants. Its magnificent leaves and flowers swaying majestically in the summer breezes give us an inkling of why the ancient Egyptians considered the plant sacred. Among the best of the bog and pond plants are Variegated Sweet Flag, Cape Pond Weed, Marsh Marigold, Umbrella Plant, Cyperus Papyrus, Water Arum, Pickerel Weed, Sagittaria japonica, Sagittaria montevidiensis, and Lizard’s Tail. Water Snowflake is one of the most charming of the small floating aquatics. White, star-like flowers of l-inch diameter are freely borne above the water. Parent plant should be rooted in soil near surface. Fic. 152. NELUMBIUM SEECIOSUM The Sacred Lotus of the Orient, from 4 to 7 feet in height, is easily the most magnificent of the aquatics with leaves and flowers above the water. Fie. 153.) Prizewinninc Carico Comet GoLprisH Fic. 154. Drizewinnine Lionueap GoLprisu These two specimens show perhaps the greatest possible divergence of extremes in the accomplishments of fancy fish breeders. It is almost incredible that they are both derived from the same root stock. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 203 Enemies of Aquatic Plants. The most serious enemies are musk- rats. These eat the roots of several hardy aquatics, particularly over the winter season. They are partial to the roots of the small yellow water lily, Pygmaea helvola. Fic. 155. Aguatic Cut-WorM A leaf-cutting worm (Hydrocampa), sometimes becomes quite a nuisance. It cuts a piece from the edge and, laying it on the leaf, attaches the two together and uses the two pieces as a cocoon. Loose bits of water lily leaves, Sagittaria, etc., observed floating around will, if pried apart, often be found to contain this white worm. The accompanying illustration is of life size. Chapter Sixteen Photographing Fishes 206 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND PHOTOGRAPHING FISHES Achievements of modern photography have done much to lessen the difficulties of photographing living fish, although a picture good in every respect demands all the patience and care at one’s disposal. Exact photographic records are extremely interesting to the fancier, valuable to the scientist and form the only certain basis for noting the changes in the fancy breeds of goldfish. A high-grade lens that will work at F 6 or better and a shutter that will give an exposure of 1-25 second should be used. Sufficient length of bellows is needed so that the fish may be photographed about two- thirds life size. Sharp negatives can be had in this way and those which turn out well can be enlarged. Direct photography at life size is not practicable, as the depth of focus and power of the light are very much cut down at this close range. The chances of blurring by movement are greatly increased by attempting to photograph at life size. A photo- graphic plate size 5 x 7 is quite satisfactory for photographing goldfish. For the most of the tropicals, 4 x 5 is sufficient. The Graflex camera is very convenient, allowing one to focus up to the instant of exposure. To properly carry out this work a special photographing aquarium should be prepared. It should be seven inches deep, seven inches wide and two and one-half inches through from front to back. The front should be of %-inch plate glass. This is important. A white background for photographing dark subjects and a black for light ones will be needed. A piece of cardboard folded twice and stood on end immediately in back of the aquarium will be found to be satisfactory. The back may be painted with flat black to serve for the alternate background. If this is done the two creases should be stripped with tape so the board will not separate when the fold is reversed. To carry out the background effect completely, cut a piece of glass the size of the inside bottom of the aquarium. Paint one side white and the other black, using either -as required. The fish will frequently sink to the bottom, and if the back- ground is of the proper color throughout, the photograph can be as well made there as higher in the water. A very important item is to have a movable glass partition so that the fish may be forced near the front glass and thus kept in focus. Thin brass forms to snap on either top end of the aquarium and leaving notches filed to held glass partition in position will be found most convenient. Fic. 156. PuotoGRAPHING AQUARIUM This aquarium was used in making all the photographic repro- ductions of fishes shown in this volume. Note glass partition for keeping subject in focus. Fic, 157.) PRiIZEWINNING CELESTIAL TELESCOPE GOLIFISH As well as being one of the most extraordinary appear- ing of goldfishes, the Celestial is also the most difhcult to breed and keep alive. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 209 All the camera except lens should be covered with a black cloth at time of exposure to prevent its own reflection in the aquarium. The author believes that sunlight furnishes the best illumination, giving better color values and modelling than flashlight. Exposures should be made only on very bright days from eleven until two o'clock, and in the period, if possible, between April 10 and September 1. At other times flash- powder will be better, using a liberal supply. Care should be taken not to allow the dust from flashlight to settle in the aquarium, as it contains metallic salts injurious to fishes. Keep the sun on the subject and directly behind the camera. The water should be as free as possible of all par- ticles, as they show in the picture with annoying distinctness. Much patience is sometimes required to get a fish into a ‘satisfactory “pose,” but when a good picture is obtained, it is well worth all the trouble it costs. The photographing aquarium shown herewith was constructed by pouring cement in a form surrounding the four uprights. Just after the cement is poured, quarter-inch square sticks of wood should be pressed in where the glass is to stand. These are removed when cement is dry. Waterproof the base as described on page 216, then fill all four depressions and posts with aquarium cement and insert glass. Owing to small size cf aquarium it is best to do all cementing before any glass is inserted for it is impossible to satisfactorily reach inside. Only the front needs to be of plate glass. This should be inserted first and all surplus cement neatly cleared away. It will be noted that this style of construction has no bottom metal frame to interfere with photographing when the subject happens to be low, which is often the case. One part of cement to two of sand is a good proportion. White cement makes a pretty effect and when using a white background, no other inside reflector is needed. This aquarium was used in making the photographic illustrations of fishes in this volume. Unless the base immediately in front of the glass is of a dull black it will be desirable to cover it with a dull black or red cloth. Black is better. Chapter Seventeen Construction of Aquaria, Tanks and Ponds 212 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND AQUARIUM CONSTRUCTION The amateur aquarist with a. little talent for things mechanical can find profit as well as pleasure in making an aquarium according to his own ideas and requirements. The few necessary tools either are, or ought to be, a part of every household equipment. Naturally the first consideration is that of the space to be occupied by the aquarium. In determining this it is well to be influenced, as far as conditions will permit, by the needs of the aquarium inmates. As to proportions, it will be found that most aquarium fishes do best in shallow aquaria with plenty of water surface. However, for artistic arrange- ment and symmetrical plant growth we must have a certain amount of depth. Twenty inches deep is sufficient even for large aquaria. In the smaller sizes, plants of suitable height can be secured. For all-round purposes, bearing in mind both the artistic and the useful, a good general rule is to make the aquarium in the form of a double cube. That is, the width and height identical, and the length twice that of either. Unless an aquarium is to be viewed only from the top, it is not advisable to make the width over 25 inches, as even a slight cloudiness of the water con- siderably obscures the fishes when there is so much of it to look through. Within reason, make the aquarium as large as possible, but nothing over a 70-gallon size is to be recommended for the household. An accidental breaking of the glass, even at this size, is too great a catastrophe to con- template with composure. Since it is very little more trouble to keep a large-sized aquarium than a small one, and the results are so much better, at least with goldfishes, we would unhesitatingly say to those weighing the merits of two sizes, take the larger. For a large variety of tropical fishes, a number of small aquaria will be found preferable. These will be treated of hereafter in the present chapter. After the considerations of size and proportions, which we have already touched upon, we will now take up in order the points of con- struction, laying particular emphasis on the factor of safety. Bases. The best material for general use in aquarium bases is slate. It is inexpensive, durable, easily worked, free from cleavage cracks, and in every way reliable. The requirements for thickness are from 34 inch for sizes up to 30 gallons, to 114 inches for 130 gallons. Polished Ten- nessee marble makes a handsome and durable base. White marble is too glaring and besides is easily chipped in moving an aquarium about. Also TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 213 when brought into contact with aquarium cement it absorbs and spreads the oil, making a bad appearance. Bases of heavy white pine, strongly cross-battened, have been used with success, but the wisdom of using a wooden base is open to serious question, especially as wide, thick pine boards can scarcely be had any more, even at high prices. The ever- present danger of warping either from a leak or the weather, or again from bending due to continuous heavy pressure are considerations weigh- ing against the wooden base. If an all-wood frame is used, it is desirable to line the bottom with a sheet of glass, preferably wired, embedding it in soft aquarium cement at the edges, and at several supporting spots near the centre. The same plan is to be recommended in aquaria with solid metal bases, in order to keep iron rust out of the water. Aquarium bases usually extend from one to one and one-half inches beyond the frames on all sides. Slate or marble bases ought to be bev- elled sufficiently on the upper edges and corners to take away the sharp- ness. The necessary holes through which the frame is to be clamped on can be drilled with an ordinary metal drill, but it costs very little extra to have the slate-worker do this when he is finishing the base. Aquaria up to 10 gallons require 4 bolts, 20 gallons 6, and for the larger sizes they should be placed about 10 inches apart. Frame Metals. Angle brass, iron or aluminum form the best metal aquarium frames. For the amateur worker, brass offers the best advan- tages. It is easily sawed, drilled and soldered, besides making a handsome appearance when polished and lacquered or nickel-plated. If nickeled it should be heavily coated. Angle iron is not so attractive in appearance, but is undoubtedly more rigid. It cannot be soldered. Consequently the four corners of the upper and lower frames have to be riveted through connecting elbow pieces on the inside or special castings on the outside, and then the whole riveted to the uprights. Aluminum has seldom been used, but makes an attractive frame. As the soldering of this metal is of doubtful durability it is safer to rivet the same as with iron. For aquaria up to 25 gallons, 54-inch angle metal is suitable; up to 50 gallons, 34 inch; up to 75 gallons, 1 inch; up to 125 gallons, 1%4 inch. The author prefers seeing as little of the frame as possible and for ten years has successfully used a 60-gallon aquarium constructed with only 5%-inch angle brass, but he would not care to make this as a general recommendation. It is mentioned so that if others have the same idea they will know that it is a mechanical possibility. Unless constructed of heavy angle iron it is best to carry a light rod across short dimension of the centre of top frame of aquaria over 30 inches in length, to prevent bulging by water pressure. 214 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND Frame Construction. A hack-saw with fine teeth for metal-work- ing will be needed to cut the proper lengths of angle metal. After care- fully determining proportions desired, cut the four uprights and then the material for top and bottom frames. If working in brass the latter should “on 7 NU lea Fic. 158. Cut, PREPARATORY TO BENDING ANGLE Brass each be left in one piece. By accurately bevelling the two ends and prepar- ing right-angle cuts at three points as shown in figure 158, the whole can be bent into a frame that will produce very neat corners and make soldering easy. The right-angle cuts should be finished with a square file and car- ried within about 1/32 inch of going through. This leaves the bar very weak at these points and considerable care is necessary in handling in order that some accident does not break them apart before it is time to bend. If one breaks it is not a very serious matter, only the corner will not have quite such a neat appearance. In practise we find it best to bend each cut as soon as finished and roughly fasten with solder. When all Fic, 159. FRAME SECURED AROUND WoopEN ForM. Note RE-INFORCEMENT IN ONE CoRNER three bends have been completed, place within it a wooden form as shown in figure 159. Except for the corners being cut off (to allow for solder- ing) the edges of form should be perfectly rectangular and fit closely. Now secure quite firmly with stout twine. After all corners are trued up with the board, apply the permanent solder. Melt solder from any TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 215 corner that does not stand true without forcing. In the upper-right cor- ner of our illustration will be noted a right-angle flange reinforcement, cut from a flat piece of 1/16-inch brass. It is advisable to use these. They add greatly to the strength and actually make the work of solder- ing easier. After preparing the surfaces with solder-flux it is only neces- sary to place solder on the frame, lay the flange on top of it and apply torch beneath. When solder melts, press flange down and into exact position with a small stick of wood. It is better to have flanges suffi- ciently narrow to allow the uprights to fit in back of them. The same form can be used for upper and lower frames. Should there be any irregularity in shape they will both be alike, and so far as strength is concerned, it will only be necessary to keep corresponding defective corners parallel with each other, so as not to make any twisting strain on the glass—a force which, sooner or later, will cause it to break. If the frame is too large for a board, it may be trued by lines drawn to lay it over. The use of forms, however, is so desirable to the amateur that we recommend having boards rabbited together in order to secure ‘suffi- cient width. To test the squareness of upper and lower frames, lay them on the floor, make marks at the corners and turn completely over, trying both length and width in this way. Tests by squares at corners are only approximate, as the angle metal is seldom perfectly straight, especially lighter brass. Before leaving the subject of bending the frames to right- angles we strongly suggest that an experimental bend first be made with a waste piece of angle brass. A little practise will be necessary to learn just how thin a particular lot of brass must be filed in order to make a good bend. The next step is to bore holes in the lower frame where it is to be bolted through the base, countersinking for depression of bolt or rivet head, and allowing enough room not to interfere with the glass. Now solder in uprights at perfect right angles to inside of top and bottom frames, being careful not to use enough heat to melt former soldering. It will be observed that the glass will be supported by the upright posts but not by the top nor bottom frames. This is corrected by soldering, about every eight inches, a small piece of brass (cut from the same ma- terial) to the horizontal frames next to where the glass is to come, thus giving it even support on all four edges. The pieces are soldered down perfectly flat and if high should be filed down. Before the glass is finally inserted it must be laid in the frame to see that the points of contact are even. Deficiencies can be made up by a drop of solder on the brass, and filed down as required. 216 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND The frame being trued up it is now bolted through the base, aquarium cement being liberally supplied in the bolt holes and between the frame and the base, all surplus being immediately wiped away. Soldering. The ordinary amateur is equipped neither with the fa- cilities nor the experience to use a soldering iron to advantage. The author has engaged in considerable aquarium construction and has usu- ally been able to get along very well without an iron, its main use being to clear surplus solder away more quickly than can be done with a file. Before soldering, the surface is properly prepared by scraping and the application of a flux composed of hydrochloric acid which has dissolved as much zinc as possible. An alcohol blow-torch is satisfactory for small work, but for the heavier construction a gasoline torch is better. When the heat is applied and the liquid of the flux has boiled away, touch the heated surface occasionally with soft solder wire. Apply a little more heat after first sign of melting, withdraw flame and proceed to quickly solder. Where work is in a position so that it is difficult to hold the pieces steadily in place while solder cools, an assistant can instantly “set” it by pouring on a little water. If acid flux darkens the hands where it touches, the stain can be removed by dilute ammonia water. Small Aquaria. Very compact, neat and substantial aquaria can be made in the foregoing manner, but without projecting base—in fact with- out slate at all. The bottom is self-contained concrete. The top frame and upright corner posts are of 14-inch angle brass, and the bottom frame of l-inch size. In the inside edges of this are soldered a few brass screws. Now prepare a mixture of one part of Portland Cement to two of clean sand, brought to a thick, mushy consistency by addition of water. Lay the frame on a good, flat piece of glass and pour in the cement to a depth of 34 inch, seeing that it lays smooth, particularly where the glass is to rest. After the cement is poured and smoothed it should be covered to be allowed to dry slowly. In about two days the frame and base can be slid off the glass. The screws soldered on inside will always hold the base securely in place. To prevent free chemicals washing out of cement into the aquarium water it is well to waterproof the inside of base before set- ting glass in. This may be done by melting chips of paraffine under the alcohol blow-torch, or by pouring on a mixture of paraffine dissolved in warm gasoline. To prepare this mixture place a quart bottle of gasoline in a butcket of warm water. Add two ounces of paraffine chips and stir until dissolved. Keep the solution warm and saturate the base with it. When dry, place in glass as in an ordinary aquarium. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 217 (The foregoing mixture of gasoline-paraffine will waterproof wood, concrete, brick, fabrics or anything that will absorb it. For fabrics to be used or bent, use only one ounce of paraffine.) After making one of these aquaria the knack becomes very easy. A row of them of uniform size presents a neat appearance and can be used in small space, since there is no projecting base. This style of con- struction is suitable for aquaria with bases up to eleven by eighteen inches. In larger sizes the uprights and top angles ought to be from five-eights to three-quarter inch metal, while heavy wire screen should be embedded in the cement for re-inforcement. If the frames are to be nickeled this should be done before pouring the cement base. Glass for Aquaria. Although double-thick window glass may be used for aquaria up to the 25 gallon size, plate-glass is so much hand- somer and costs s0 little more, it seems like a wise investment. If window- glass is used, the imported kinds will be found best. Plate-glass is now made in 3-16 inches thickness. This is suitable for aquaria under 50 gal- lons. For those for 50 to 75 gallons, the best thickness is 4 inch, and for the still larger sizes up to 120 gallons, 34 inch. The author and others have occasionally picked up bargains in plate-glass from plate-glass insurance concerns, who often have on their hands large remnants of bulk-windows. Setting the Glass. The edges of the glass should be carefully cleaned with whiting, ammonia or alcohol to remove any grease. It is well to first coat the edges which are to come into contact with the cement with gold size, allowing this to set for a day or two. This is more particularly needed with large plate-glass aquaria. Apply a liberal coating of aquarium cement to the inside of frame, and a thin but well covered coat to the contact edges of the glass. Press into place slowly but firmly, cleaning away at once all surplus cement. Light sticks cut of a length to brace across inside of aquarium will maintain an outward pressure on the glass for several days until it is fairly set. After the glass is well set it is advisable, especially with the larger sizes, to run a line of aqua- rium cement up the inside corners and along the bottom edges, covering with a narrow strip of glass, or, better, embedding a glass rod of from Y% to %-inch diameter in it, pressing in as far as possible and wiping away the surplus cement. Fill slowly in about a week and change water several times in two weeks before putting in fishes. Large aquaria nearly always leak a little at first, or after moving them, or even after emptying without moving. This usually corrects 218 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND itself within a few days, but, as elsewhere directed, it can nearly always be stopped by making the water very muddy. The particles of dirt get into the leak and choke it up. Aquarium Cements. The prime requisites of an aquarium cement are resistence to water, adhesiveness, moderately quick setting without ever becoming stone-hard, and being non-poisonous. A cement com- bining these qualities is composed of one pound of litharge, one pound of Plaster of Paris, two ounces of powdered resin and one-half pound of glazier’s sand; mixed with boiled linseed oil to a consistency of putty suit- able for glazing. This cement has been found to be good for both fresh and marine water aquaria. A durable cement for those who cannot obtain very fine sand is made of equal parts by weight of zinc white, whiting and litharge, mixed with boiled linseed oil to a firm but tacky consistency. CEMENT FOR Marine Aguarra. A cement used for large, city marine aquaria is composed of 3 parts by measurement of Portland Cement, 3 parts fine white sand, 1 part powdered resin; mixed with boiled linseed oil. CEMENT FOR WoopEN-FRAMED AQuARIA. The best cement for small wooden-framed aquaria is made of 1 part of gutta percha and 4 parts of pitch, boiled together and applied warm, first heating the glass somewhat. It is difficult to handle this quickly enough on large aquaria, for which the following will be found better: 3 parts Portland Cement, 2 parts zinc white, 3 parts fine sand, 1 part powdered resin, made into a firm paste with boiled linseed oil. CONCRETE AQUARIA The making of concrete aquaria opens a new and an unlimited field. Those who have felt that the metal-frame aquarium is hopelessly restricted and commonplace can here find more room for individual expression, design and achievement. The illustration facing title page gives an idea of possibilities along this line. The aquarium shown is one designed and built by Mr. L. M. Dorsey and probably represents the highest develop- ment, up to this time, of artistic ideas as applied to a household aquarium. In the Philadelphia Aquarium Society annual competition Mr. Dorsey was awarded the prize cup three times, thereby becoming its permanent possessor. As individual ideas will vary so widely in the design of concrete aquaria, only a few (yet important) directions can be given. Cement should be of the highest grade, fresh and free from lumps. A mixture of one part cement to two of clean, sharp sand is about right. Wooden TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 219 forms ought to be soaked with water just before using, or else thoroughly paraffined. Cement mixture should be wet enough to just pour, and needs to be well tamped to avoid bubbles. Re-inforcement rods (%4 inch diameter) are essential, especially around the top edge, where a con- tinuous band should be formed. Over the bottom the bars should be wired together, forming 4-inch squares. Do not be in a hurry to get the forms off. The whole job should be moistened for a day and allowed to stand for two more days if their removal is going to cause any Strain. Glass must not be embedded directly in the concrete, but provision made for later setting it in with ordinary aquarium cement. If sides do not support the glass evenly they should be cut away or built up until they do. Otherwise glass is sure to crack when the soft aquarium cement yields to the water pressure. After base is finished it is well to paraffine it as described on page 216. All cement pouring should be done at one operation. CONSTRUCTION OF WOODEN TANKS Many expert fanciers are of the opinion that for the welfare of fishes there is no receptacle equal to a well-seasoned wooden tank. For breeding purposes they are especially valuable, but in no case should tanks be used before numerous changes of water have been made over a period of several weeks. Fic. 160. Wooven Breepinc TANK 220 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND The best wood for tanks is well-seasoned cypress, the natural habitat of the tree being in wet places. Any size tank may be made, but there are two sizes found quite convenient and which cut to good advantage out of the lumber. The larger measures 16 inches high, 30 inches wide and 48 inches long. The smaller one measures 9 inches high, 24 inches wide and 32 inches in length. For the larger size 114-inch lumber is used, which is about 114 inches when dressed. Here a board 16 inches wide is used, avoiding seams in any of the sides, and being but one in the bottom. The side and bottom boards are rabbeted to 14 inch deep and 114 inches from edge to receive the ends. Bottom boards are tongued and grooved. All joints should receive a preliminary coating of white lead paint. After this is dried a thicker coat should be applied just before putting joints together. The tank is then clamped and 134-inch screws inserted through the sides into the bottom and ends, and through the bottom into the ends. Cleats 3 inches wide are placed across centre of bottom and all the way around the ends. Through the top of latter is passed an iron rod 4 inch thick, then secured ‘and tightened with washer and nut at ends. The smaller tank is constructed in the same manner, except that cleat across centre bottom and the iron rods are omitted. While painting the outside improves the appearance, it has more of a tendency to rot a tank than preserve it, as the paint prevents the evapora- tion of the moisture naturally gathered from the inside. Leaks will usually correct themselves in a few days, but should they not do so, a few hand- fulls of earth stirred in the water and allowed to stand a few hours will make the job tight. Occasional stirring of the dirty water helps. The white lead should be allowed a day to harden before filling with water. CONSTRUCTION OF TANKS AND POOLS For outdoor purposes it is better to dig holes in the ground and puddle them with clay rather than make poorly constructed concrete basins or pools of any size. Unless the work is properly done the frost is certain to crack it, and even the weight of the water may be sufficient to bring about this result. Repaired work is never satisfactory, and the next winter will open more seams, making continual expense, dissatis- faction, loss of water and of fishes. With indoor concrete tanks too, thorough construction is a good investment. The main points in the construction of such work are good foun- dations, thorough reinforcement, good cement properly mixed, and one continuous job of the finishing coat. The concrete centre ought also be poured within the space of one day. There is some difference of opinion as to the necessity for a base of cinders. The author favors them. If used they should be the hard kind, wetted down and packed solid to a TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 221 depth of one foot or more. For tanks of moderate size—say 11 x 22 feet—reinforcement should be by use of 14-inch steel rods, crossed on squares of 8 inches. The bottom needs two layers of these bars, one near the upper and one near the lower surface. This protects against both Fic. 161. CorrecT ARRANGEMENT OF REINFORCING STEEL, AND GALVANIZED IRON Form For WaTER Lity Pot Fic. 162. Woopven Form REapy FOR CONCRETE POURING The dotted blocks represent bricks or stones to hold inside form to same height as the outside. Note slope of inside form. 222 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND inside and outside pressures. The lower frame of bars is bent up at the ends to form a cradle, thus reinforcing the side walls. The ends are finally again bent over at right angles, running in the direction of the wall, and laced together. Above this are two continuous bands of the steel. Figures 161 and 163 will indicate these points. The corners are always the weakest points. As the concrete is poured, lay in extra right-angle pieces of 12 inches total length. The pouring of the concrete makes a great strain on the forms. These need to be thoroughly braced in the beginning, for it is impossible to improvise means of looking after these points, once the work has started and the walls have bulged or the corners sprung. The outside bottom stakes are merely driven into the ground and not otherwise fastened. Outside corners in addition to being nailed are secured by pieces of tin, nailed through. Inside corners are held by iron elbows (to be had at hardware stores). They are secured by screws. The nails fastening side-cleats should be driven through and turned over. Concrete walls had best be thicker at the bottom, putting all the slope on the inside. A good inside depth for ordinary purposes is 15 inches, filling to 13% inches with water. If an overflow is to be made through side, make a core of soft wood and saturate it with water so that it will contract upon Fic. 163. Cross-section or FinisHep Poor The lowest layer represents cinders. We have indicated here the upper layer of re-inforcement in the base, impossible to show in Fig. 161. TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 223 drying. For outdoor pools an inside slope of 2 inches is about right. This would be, for a 7x 9-foot pool, a top thickness of 4 inches, with 6 inches at the bottom. Base, 6 inches thick. For larger sizes add 1 inch of thickness to walls and base. Indoor pools require no slope. In mak- ing all calculations, allow 3% inch for thickness of finishing coat. The forms should be levelled up and made absolutely true in the beginning. It is a bad plan to depend upon the finishing coat to correct inaccuracies. It seldom does it. Some considerable care is necessary to establish the four corners at perfect level. Select one corner and measure each of the other three from that. If the spirit-level is attached to a board, its trueness should be tested by reversing the ends. In any case the level should be reversed on each test. The concrete is mixed 1 part cement, 2 parts sand, 4 parts 34-inch crushed stone or round stone. This is poured to within Y inch of top of form, beginning with the base and must be well tamped to avoid bubbles and open spots. Those wishing to secure the best possible results first place a thin skin of cement over the cinders so the water in concrete will not seep into the cinder base, it being desirable that all concrete work dry slowly in order to crystallize perfectly. This prelim- inary skin is as thin as possible and is applied the day before. It is com- posed half each of sand and cement. If this is used, the lower layer of re-inforcement may be laid directly upon it. Fic. 166 Fig. 164. Tile Seton Cement Mound. Fig. 165. Top Finishing Coat Brought to Level of Form, Fig. 166. Guide-board in Position for Inside Finishing Coat (Whether or not tiles are used, this is the best method of finishing) Finishing coat should be applied within 24 hours, and is made 1 part cement, 2 parts sand. Finish one side at a time, top edge first, inside surface next, then outside, and the bottom after 4 sides are complete. Begin by filling to top of form. Now take off inside form from one side only. Lay a piece of perfectly straight board along top edge. This makes an infallible gauge for thickness and straightness of finishing coat (Figure 166). Here we might say that it is advisable to have an experi- enced finisher do this work, but a resourceful amateur can do it. Now do the outside in the same manner, the idea here being to have the top bind with the sides while fresh. The outside being done last is less likely to be kicked. Try to protect the job from rapid drying in the sun. 204 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND It is very nice to sink a hole in the centre for the reception of a water lily plant. This adds considerably to the planning and labor, but the result is worth it in satisfaction if one is fond of beautiful aquatics. At the same time the bottom can be drained towards the centre, a good point when it comes to the annual cleaning-out. Figure 163 shows this. The hole ought to be about 18 inches wide at the top, 15 at the bottom and 17 deep. The galvanized iron form is removed by bending it inwards at one point. This form is of thin metal and has no bottom, it being impossible to withdraw a bucket on account of suction. Another added attraction for those caring for the aesthetic side is the addition of tiles in the edges. To try to push these into the finishing coat is to court certain trouble and a botch job. As soon as the concrete is poured the tiles should be set on little mounds of cement as indicated in Figure 164, seeing that they come to exactly the right level, fixing the four corner ones first. Next day the finishing coat is filled around them and they help to establish the correct level. The cement will slop over on them a little, but this is no matter. Most of it can be wiped off with water and the balance after drying, with dilute hydrochloric acid. The author is not partial to drain-pipes. They may become dislodged and let the tank run dry, or, on the other hand, they may get sand in them and not go back into place. However, this is a matter of personal pref- erence. In two days after the finishing coat is applied, a little water may be run in. On the fourth day fill completely. All cement containers should be seasoned before the fishes are introduced. This can be done by changing the water six times over a period of two weeks. This is not thorough and a longer time is better. Seasoning can be accelerated by different chemical processes. The safest is to fill the pool and slake a large piece of lime in it. In a pool 8 x 12 feet, slake about half a bushel. There is no danger of using too much. After slak- ing, stir every few hours and clean out thoroughly in two days. Another method is to place a piece of blue litmus paper (obtainable in drug store) in the water after it has stood a day and been stirred up. Then slowly add and stir in commercial sulphuric acid until the paper shows a faint pink hue. Allow to stand another day and if the paper goes back to blue, repeat addition of acid. When the pink shade remains draw off water, clean thoroughly and use. Enough acid to turn the paper a distinct pink or red should not be used. Always stir water well before determining color of paper. This test is only for the acid process. Aquarium or Tank Capacity. To ascertain the gallon capacity of any rectangular tank, multiply the length, breadth and depth together in inches. Divide by 231. The result will be in gallons. A gallon weighs 8 1-3 pounds. Fic. 167. FixtsHep Poot, SHowinc SUNKEN LiLy Pot AND OvERFLOW Fic. 168. Same in Use, With Tropical AND Picmy Litres 1x Bloom Fic. 169. “Queen Lin,” a MANyY-TIME PRIZEWINNING SCALELESS TELESCOPE (GOLDFISH 14 Chapter Eighteen Aquarium Appliances 228 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND AQUARIUM APPLIANCES Nets. The most important device in aquarium work is a net with which to catch the fish, yet in most instances it is of faulty construction. The scales of a fish are easily knocked off by the hard knots in the coarse eS Fics. 170 anp 171. Proper Nets For GOLDFISHES AND YOUNG TROPICALS threads composing nets usually sold. This is very bad for the fish. A far better material is Brussels netting of a mesh such as is used on window curtains—not too fine. When fish have to be caught from a globe, a round net is con- venient, but for a straight-side aquarium, a square or oblong net is very much better. Usually these cannot be purchased, but to make one is a simple matter and well repays for the effort. Perhaps the easiest way is to purchase a round net, remove netting, bend wires to an oblong form and re-cover with Brussels netting. Glass Cleaners. The best device for cleaning the inside glass of straight aquaria is a safety razor blade secured in a stick and riveted through. First rivet or wrap end of stick with fine copper wire to prevent Fic. 172. Sarety Razor BLape AQuARIUM GLASS CLEANER splitting, place razor blade firmly in iron vise and drive down stick to proper point. A blade may be used directly in the hand, but in this case it is better to dull one edge first in order to avoid cutting the fingers. A dime rubbed flat against the glass will clean it. For cleaning globes a piece of thick felt is very good, although any piece of clean fabric will do. Dip Tube. Sometimes particles of food remain too long after feed- ing. Also dirt collects in spots. Such places can easily be cleaned by use of a dip tube. Any tube of from one-quarter to three-eighths inch TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 229 inside diameter and about six inches longer than the depth of the aquarium will do. Glass is preferable. Hold the thumb firmly over one end, place other end near particles to be lifted. Remove thumb, allowing water and particles to rush into tube. Replace thumb, lift out and empty. The capacity of the tube can be considerably increased by heating the centre over a Bunsen flame and blowing a sort of belly. Siphon. When much dirt needs to be removed or the aquarium emptied, a siphon should be used. This consists simply of a hose sufficiently long to reach from the bottom of the aquarium, up over the edge and down again to a point near the floor. The longer the drop, the more rapid the flow. Fill tube with water, close both ends by finger pressure, insert one end in the aquarium and hold the other as low as possible. Release the ends of tube and the water will flow as long as there is water in the aquarium at a higher point than the discharging end of tube. Care should be taken not to draw in fish or snails. Forceps. A pair of forceps for aquarium work forms a most handy tool. Their construction is very simple. Take a piece of 1%-inch brass wire thirty inches long and bend to shape shown in Figure 173. Where the wire crosses, hammer out a small flat space through which a rivet Fic. 173. Aguarium Forceps can be fastened. A small section of brass wire or a copper tack can be used as a rivet. When the forceps are otherwise completed, flatten out the ends by hammeiing on an iron vise or other firm surface. The jaws of the forceps automatically remain open. Pressure on the upper loop closes them. They will be found quite handy in adjusting plants and lifting out snails, stones or other small objects. Planting Sticks. To secure the roots of plants in sand would seem a very simple matter, but when the aquarium is filled it is most difficult to set them without the help of one or two planting sticks. These are as simple as they are useful, being merely thin sticks with a dull =e a Fic. 174. PLantinc Stick notch in the end. About three-eighths of an inch is a suitable size diameter for the sticks. The notch should be slightly rounded on the edges to avoid cutting the roots as they are forced into the sand. Two 230 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND sticks are better than one. Plants like Giant Sagittaria should be pressed down from two sides. After the plant is placed to the proper depth, it should be held with one stick while the other is used to push sand over the roots and to press down straggling roots which have not been covered. Aquariums should not be planted while filled, but sometimes a few plants tide loose on the first filling or some are added later. For such occasions planting sticks are most handy. A pair of rulers will do for an emer- gency. Almost anything is better than the fingers. Scissors. A pair of scissors with a 15-inch rod securely wrapped to each handle is useful for trimming dead leaves from plants. With this Fic. 175. Aguarium Scissors tool plants can be reached without disturbing anything, and one can get a better view of what is to be done than when working elbow-deep in the water. Live-bearing Jars. With most varieties of viviparous (live-bear- ing) fishes it is desirable to promptly separate the mother and other fish from the young in order that they will not be eaten. One simple method is to take a glass funnel about six inches across the top, file a nick where base joins tube, break off tube and place a small piece of U-shaped wire Fics. 176 anp 177. Sipe ann Tor Views or ALt-GLass BreEEDING Jars, SHOWING Escare Suit in the opening so that the wire divides the hole in half. The funnel is then placed in a bell jar or other aquarium of a size that will suspend it TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 231 by the edge, bring the water as high as possible in funnel, place female fish in funnel and cover over with screen. The wire will prevent the mother fish from becoming jammed in the outlet, but will allow the young to pass through and collect in the lower portion of jar. Very excellent breeding glasses come from Germany. These have a long narrow slit in the bottom and may be hooked on the inside of any receptacle. See Fig. 177. Spawning Net. In the spawning season aquarium space is often limited, particularly among amateur breeders who have perhaps a single aquarium. The breeding fish should be separated from the others, as the idle fish would eat the spawn. An easy way over this difficulty is the ip La oe Ly Wy Z Wf oy Ly a po y Lae 1. Fic. 178. Spawninc NET use of the spawning net. This is simply a square bag of cheesecloth sus- pended in the aquarium. Figure number 178 will clearly show how this may be done. The four corners should be weighted down with bits of lead or stone sewed in. The plants and spawning fish are simply trans- ferred into the net. Confined in this comparatively small space the chances of the eggs becoming fertilized are increased, while the netting is sufficiently open to allow the aquarium water to flow slowly through it and prevent suffocation. In this way the large amount of dirt usually stirred up in an aquarium at spawning time, and which can do the adhesive eggs no good, is entirely avoided. The size of the net will depend somewhat on the proportions of the aquarium, but the capacity to oo to GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND of net (portion in water) should be about twelve to eighteen inches long, ten inches wide and ten inches deep. In constructing, allow extra material for space between top frame and surface of water. Constant Aquarium Filter. This device is for use in connection with the air pump referred to on page 10. It is capable of a number of variations, once the principle is understood. There are two columns of water in the tubes, one solid and one punctuated by air bubbles, thereby making it the lighter. This causes it to rise and therefore establish cir- culation as long as air is supplied. A 34-inch diameter glass surgical drain is shown at A. This should contain about eight small openings and be suspended two inches above the sand. This is connected by a short piece of rubber tubing to the rest of the system, which is of glass tubing from 5/16 to 3% inch inside diameter. The dark sections represent rubber joints, making the system more flexible, less liable to breakage, less ex- pense in case of break and makes cleaning of each section easy. (The tubes require an annual cleaning.) Air is injected under pressure at C, which should be five inches above lowest point of pipes. This starts the flow, which is discharged into D, a small filter suspended in the corner of the aquarium, and just above water level. It may be made of glass, alumi- num, porcelain or eathenware, and should approximate in size five inches in diameter by two deep, the bottom having a few perforations. The best filtering medium in this work is absorbent cotton, which should be laid on a few pebbles, glass bars or bits of charcoal for good drainage. The force of air and the distance between C and the surface of water deter- mines the speed at which the water travels. The lower the point at which air is injected, the greater the speed. To start the system, disconnect at B, suck with the lips to start siphon, re-connect while water is running. After water in rise tube has reached aquarium level, turn on air-cock at C. This cock should always be closed when air is not wanted and pump not work- ing, in order to prevent water backing up into air pipe. All rubber joints should be tightly secured by wrapping with thread or narrow strips of electric tape. Rubber cement spread on connecting surfaces helps make a good job. If there is danger of glass tubes being broken it is best to use pipe of block tin. For salt water, use glass or lead. Instead of filtering at top of aquarium it is possible to pass the water through a big, large-necked bottle of sand at the lowest point of dip. Both tubes pass through a rubber cork, the dirty water being carried to bottom of bottle, discharged in a layer of pebbles, brought upwards through fine sand and taken off by rise pipe just inside of cork. The sand should not quite fill bottle. Cork must be securely tied down. This is a nice arrange- TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 233 ment, but was abandoned by the writer owing to the trouble of discon- necting everything and washing sand every ten days, which was necessary owing to clogging. In top filter the cotton must be changed every two days, but this can be done in a few seconds. This arrangement both filters and aerates the water. If filtering is not needed, the filter can be removed and aeration will go on. > Hl yo Lijit. ts | aA LODO BS Fic. 179. Water CIRCULATION BY AIR PRESSURE Water can be raised by this method from fifteen to twenty-five inches above level. To secure the greater height, use 14-inch inside diameter tube, take plenty of drop and allow eight inches from lowest point to C. By this means and a little ingenuity a return fountain can be made. To secure a uniform flow it would require a small tank to receive the dis- charge from the pipe, and from this an overflow to aquarium in case the water supply comes too rapidly for discharge rate of fountain. It is not necessary to carry pipes over edge of aquarium as shown in diagram; they may be carried through the bottom, carrying dirty water directly down. The rise tube should be brought up through inside, over edge of filter. Short pieces of tubing long enough to reach above the sand and to extend an inch below the aquarium base should be used for passing through the slate. A very effective means of securing these in 234 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND permanent position is to melt by alcohol blow-torch some chips of gum shellac. This melting is done in the aquarium directly around the tube and is continued until a small mound is formed. A piece of wet cardboard will protect nearby glass from the heat. Gum shellac has perfect resistance to water. It will adhere to almost anything and is of especial value in connecting glass to metal. When cool it is quite hard. Chapter Nineteen Forty Don'ts to oo a GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND Don't Don’t Don’t Don’t Don’t Don't Don't Don’t Don’t Don’t Don’t Don’t Don’t Don’t Don't Don't Don’t Don’t Don’t FORTY DON’TS overfeed. overstock. inbreed too long. use very deep aquaria. delay treating sick fishes. start with expensive fishes. allow dead leaves to accumulate. use fishglobes except temporarily. attempt to move filled large aquaria. neglect to look fishes over carefully. fail to replace covers on tropical aquaria. use oil stoves if anything else can be had. keep very large and small fishes together. always blame the dealer if your fishes die. use coarse nets. Brussels netting is better. keep any aquarium in a very subdued light. introduce plants without thoroughly cleansing. fail to give the fishes an occasional pinch of salts. fail to sterilize a net after lifting a diseased fish. Don’t put the fish outdoors the first warm day of Spring. Don’t Don’t Don't Don’t Don't Don't Don’t Don’t Don’t Don’t be too sure the family cat won’t fish in the aquarium. entrust the feeding to another if this can be avoided. as a beginner disregard the greater experience of others. sell surplus stock for a song. It had better be given away. feed large earthworms. They should be chopped and rinsed. slide all-glass aquaria. Scratches may cause them to break. forget that most fishes enjoy an occasional variation in food. assume that ordinary artificial light is a substitute for daylight. experiment with rare tropicals to see how cool they may be kept. suddenly change the temperature of the water, either higher or lower. Don’t allow unconsumed food to remain in the aquarium. Remove with dip-tube. , TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 237 Don’t use unmixed raw water from the faucet. The excess of oxygen is undesirable. Don’t fail to join an aquarium society, either as an active or a correspond- ing member. Don’t place daphnia in the aquarium without first looking carefully for insect enemies. Don’t fail to thoroughly disinfect an aquarium in which there has been a contagious disease. Don’t tear up the plants in trying to catch a fish. A little patience will avoid later regrets. Don’t be stingy, but give away a few interesting fishes to those who might become fanciers. Don’t keep goldfishes and tropicals together. They may not quarrel, but the appearance is not good. Don’t throw away dead rare fishes. Preserve in alcohol. Scientific insti- tutions are glad to have them. Don’t always use chemicals on a fish a little out of condition. A change of aquarium or of food may be all that is necessary. GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND ILLUSTRATIONS AND THEIR SOURCES Frontispiece. Original Photograph (colored) by the Author, Mr. L. M. Dorsey’s Prizewinning Concrete Aquarium. Ficure Pace 1. Air Pump. Original Drawing by the Author............00cceceeeeeeeeee 10 2. African Snail. Original Drawing from Life by J. A. Bauer............ 11 3. Japanese Snail. Original Drawing from Life by J. A. Bauer........... 11 4. Red Ramshorn Snail. Original Drawing from Life by J. A. Bauer...... 11 5. Freshwater Mussel. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes... 13 6. Weatherfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler........ 13 7. Prizewinning Scaleless Telescope. Owned by Joseph Heilman. Original Photograph ‘by’ the Author: 5 seccacg esos 4-4. $c pedals fared ove comida sree ee V7 8. Prizewinning Moor. Owned by Fred G. Schaefer. Original Photo- staph bythe Aithor cnmacd so ts Kacenastacnes besos cad Wunimien an Gunes 18 9. Common Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 20 10. Comet Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler...... 25 11. Shubunkin Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 25 12. Fantail Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing.... 25 13. Japanese Fringetail Goldfish. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler from Life Sketelt by Franklin. Barrett: cccaceses womenatnin hodaaad mneeeca ances 27 14. Nymph Goldfish. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler, after Life Sketch by Bran klint. Batrettrs = avetacu cm acts cle tanctsiteanencniattnveG eee a aieatneend aes s 28 15. Chinese Telescope Goldfish. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler from Life Sketch by; the Author sony shenewaes sea ae abn eer aca aon ame ened 29 16. Chinese Scaleless Telescope (Dorsal View). Owned by Louis Burk. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing.................. 30 17. Calico Veiltail Telescope. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler from Sketch by tHE Ra. sal ak ya acne aie CMG id we biden the tetarchoe Ohi ine tent ties 32 18. Chinese Celestial Telescope. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. FOWLER i/aie/oj sire g oda he a pa eens ee ae eee monn he ceenhs aecete cts ha Ba 33 19. Young Chinese Moor. Owned by Fred G. Schaefer. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler from Original Photograph by the Author.................... 34 20. Lionhead Goldfish. Owned by Louis Burk. Original Drawing from Life Dy Elen ry: Wi HOw ler yg © ac ccaimmioatec ons slot sce duacticcutnn oa od Sen eaeameaen ee 35 21. Oranda Goldfish. Owned by Franklin Barrett. Original Drawing from Eite-bys Henry: Wi Bowler aocseduns ccs ena tesioene se eels eso ueneneuks 36 22. Chinese Eggfish. Drawn by Henry W. Fowler.............0.0ececcee eee 37 23. Tailless Goldfish. Original Drawing from Life by Franklin Barrett..... 38 24, Exhibition, Horticultural Hall. Original Photograph by the Author...... 41 25. Medal, Aquarium Society. Original Photograph by the Author.......... 42 26. Diagram of Swallowtail Comet. Drawn by Franklin Barrett............ 43 27. Diagram of Veiltail Comet. Drawn by Franklin Barrett................ 43 28. Diagram of Swallowtail Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett............ 44 29. Diagram of Veiltail Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett................ 44 30. Diagram of Swallowtail Telescope Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.. 44 31. Diagram of Veiltail Telescope Nymph. Drawn by Franklin Barrett...... 44 32. Diagram of Swallowtail Japanese Fringetail. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.. 44 33. Diagram of Dorsal View of Same. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.......... 44 34. Diagram of Veiltail Japanese Fringetail. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.... 45 35. Diagram of Dorsal View of Same. Drawn by Franklin Barrett....... 45 36. Diagram of Swallowtail Telescope. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.......... 45 37. Diagram of Veiltail Telescope. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.............. 45 38. Diagram of Oranda. Drawn by Franklin Barrett........................ 45 39. Diagram of Celestial. Drawn by Franklin Barrett..... dace sees sa Ree 45 40. Diagram of Dorsal View of Same. Drawn by Franklin Barrett.......... 46 41. Diagram of Lionhead. Drawn by Franklin Barrett...................... 46 TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 239 Ficure PAGE 42. Goldfishes Spawning. Original Photograph by the Author............... 51 43. Goldfish Eggs. Original Photograph by the Author..........--.......005 52 44. Goldfish Fry at Two Weeks. Original Photograph by the Author........ 53 45. Goldfish at Six Weeks. Original Photograph by the Author.............. 54 46. Goldfish at Twelve Weeks. Original Photograph by the Author........-. 55 47. Goldfish Over One Year. Original Photograph by the Author........... 56 48. Prizewinning Scaleless Telescope. Owned by Fred Schaefer. Original Photograph by the Author....... 0... . cc cece eect cence eee tent enn ees 49. Farm Breeding Ponds. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, after Sketch by Branklin- Barrett) nascawedhoctn cy seul ccgracss sik Wobadiaendn iar ea karen 50. Wholesale Breeding Establishment. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, after Sketch, by Franklin: Barretty; ¢ccsweruae-veg 04 ou-wyseusee ede Los neenioee 51. Red-Bellied Dace. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 70 52. Rosy-Sided Dace. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 71 53. Black-Nosed Dace. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler.. 72 54. Stickleback. After Jordan and Evermann..............0-.0ee ee eee scene 72 55. Chaetodon. After Jordan and Evermann..............0:00ceeeeee ene 73 56. Sunfish. After Jordan and Evermann................000000 cere ee ene eee 74 57. Silverfin. After Jordan and Evermann..............000 00000 ce eeu ee eens 75 58. Darter. After Jordan and Evermann.............. 000 cc eee eee e eee eee 76 59. Killifish. After Jordan and Evermann................22 cece eee e rete eee 76 60. Golden Orfe. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler......... 77 61. Catfish. After Jordan and Evermann...........-....0. cee cece ee eens 77 62. Golden Tench. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler...... 78 63. Sucker. After Jordan and Evermann 78 64. Roach. After Jordan and Evermann.............. 0.2 e cee eeee eee e eee eeee 79 65. Chub. After Jordan and Evermann............... 79 66. Mullet. After Jordan and Evermann..............ccceeee cece ce eeeeeeeee 80 67. Eel. After Jordan and Evermann...........0...ceceecc cece cece eens enees 80 68. Sole. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler................ 81 69. Mirror Carp. Original Drawing from Life by Henry P. Schwing....... 81 70: Nest Builders, From Blatter’ ccicas¢icc4x shone oi ee os 488 Holey wot eee aa 103 71. Chanchito. From Conradshohe Catalog .......0. 0000000 c cece cc cc 104 72. Polyacanthus davi. From Conradshohe Catalog ......... cece cece en neees 104 73. Direct External Heater. Original Drawing by the Author............... 105 74. Indirect External Heater. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey........... . 105 75. Indirect System Through Base. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey..... 105 76. Direct Heating Through Pan. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey........ 106 77. Direct Heating Through Metal Disc. Original Drawing by L. M. Dorsey.. 106 78. Gas Thermostat. Courtesy, A. H. Thomas............. eee e seen ee eens 108 79. Sea Horse. Original Drawing from Life by Henry W. Fowler........... 117 80. Red Triton. Original Photograph by Dr. R. W. Shufeldt............... 121 81. Enclosed Aqua-Terrarium. After Zernecke................. eee e eee eee 122 82. Swamp Aquarium. After Zernecke......-.. 0... ccc ccc eee e eee eens 125 83. Daphnia. Original Drawing from Life by the Author.................. 130 84. Mosquito Larva. Original Drawing from Life by the Author........... 130 85. Mosquito Egg Raft, After Howard......... 0... cece cece eee eens 130 86. Mosquito Pupa. Original Drawing from Life by the Author........... 130 87. Cyclops. Original Drawing by Mary Weber........-....0. cece eee eee 130 88. Cypris. Original Drawing by Helen Winchester.......................5. 130 89. Bloodworm (Chironomus). Original Drawing by Helen Winchester.... 134 90. Tubifex Worms. Original Drawing by Helen Winchester............... 134 91. Freshwater Shrimp. Original Drawing from Life by Frank J. Myers... 135 02. “Water Asel. After Sarsecn cosy eiccsanabew ce heey ae mee bese ee Reuse 135 93. Rotifer (Asplanchnopus). Original Drawing from Life by Frank J. Myer sin -siecttya nigra cities certo ala a SinilaeNayn cen aa acre arene ONE RSA ae 135 94. Rotifer (Pterodina). Original Drawing by Frank J. Myers.............. 135 95. Rotifer (Noteus). Original Drawing from Life by Frank J. Myers..... 135 96. Microscopic Animal Life (73 figures). Original Drawings from Life by Prank Je Myersios caine. sa pacaisiseu Oar cse eer taeha ene. ao secre sais 141 97. Diseased Fish (White fungus). Original Drawing by Franklin Barrett.. 147 08. Fish Louse (Argulus). Originat Drawing by Helen Winchester........ 154 99, Water Tiger (Dytiscus larva). Original Drawing by Helen Winchester.. 156 240 GOLDFISH VARIETIES AND Ficure PAGE 100. Spearmouth (Hydrophilus larva). Original Drawing by Helen Winchester 157 101. Dragon Fly Nymph (Anar junius). Original Drawing by Helen Win- CHESTEI ois ae pete wm ekico cy ee Utne te Mate eaae nied Was nem cere hear puciey nO, de gate : 102. Dragon Fly Larva Catching Fish. Original Drawing by Mary Weber.... 157 103. Water Boatman. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester. . .-. 158 104. Predaceous Diving Beetle. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Win- _ CHEStED irc sare ina an aeames aus ue ec mabseme yarns eeeemed ese LOO 105. Water Scavenger Beetle. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Win- E chester Lae ME Ra Whe ENE orelmeuinie etre eas emmennn nae duet emramntene LOD 106. Giant Water Bug With Eggs (B. serphus). Original Drawing from Life Bye elen cWanch esters 7 ccccs nate sieves cereus anes einen aaunimtea vente See aterey 160 107. Giant Water Bug (B. Americana). After Mary Wellman............... 160 108. Water Scorpion. Original Drawing from Life by Mary Weber.......... 160 109. Whirligig Beetle. After Mary Wellman.............0......0. eee uee. 161 110. Larva of Whirligig Beetle. After Mary Wellman....................... 161 111. Water Strider. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester....... 161 112. Water Mite. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester......... 161 113. Hydra. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes................ 162 114. Roots of Aquatic Plant. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes 164 115. Sagittaria natans. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch bye Enanikiin Barnettocns sactcemttssainen tees a ees onlin naka eee s 165 116. Giant Sagittaria. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester.... 117. Sagittaria subulata. Drawn by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch Dy cP ra nk iB aleretts assim ceteris naan gree me oh ay Sat ean 168 118. Wild Ludwigia (L. glandulosa). Original Drawing from Life by Mary Wiebe iowa cena oh Meta ipereen ar static et inne i Nil ns neh ae gee ee 168 119. Vallisneria. Drawn by Henry P,. Schwing, from Original Sketch by rea tall ina IB Ar Ete ene gags kaeean-c.cra essen va guen cesatona aa tla vee Ss ade tapers a tl aes 169 120. Giant Vallisneria. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester.... 171 121, Wild Anacharis. Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch by*sratiklin (Barrett: eae cc den coke i9 on dren u since yotiran iad Adee 173 122, Anacharis (cultivated). Original Drawing from Life by Helen Win- GHESTE I sae Ne tere ee sed ye ods men caretatisdstart shecamcselae rial eget ehersidagtecaeiceieieae ee oe 175 123. Cabomba. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester............ 175 124. Myriophyllum. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester...... 177 123. Bladderwort. Original Drawing from Life by Helen Winchester...... _ 77 126. Hair Grass. Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original Sketch by Bianiklin Bagrett: cy umoscc citer lane enenn en gach en ee 178 127. Potamogeton. Drawing by Henry [. Schwing, from Original Sketch by Hranklin »Barnett: censure cnceta ron ion cine ad « haeyeailnbuncss iene sowie 128. Nitella. Original Drawing from Life by Evelyn B. Innes............... 179 129. Ludwigia (cultivated). Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original sketch; by Bran Kline Barrett} oc. wmovnss enced ealaiewereueee ste s 181 130. Spatterdock (Southern). Drawing by Henry P. Schwing, from Original sketch, by: Franklin Barrett: :2cimcueen pease ssrcaayienterstulenss 8 mw Sh Meaty iinet a RON SE Aquarium Appliances ............... 22 Aquarium Capacity ................. 224 Aquarium Cements ................. 218 Aquarium Construction ............. 212 AQGUAPINI COVERS: woe 4 48 dco ee wir 14 “Aquarium Exhibition ............... 41 *Aquarium Filter ................ 232) 23% Aquarium Management ...........08 6 Aquarium Plants: 4.64.6 eas sgn a nek sea 164 *Aquarium Pump 66 sic edaawweee cae 10 *Aquarium Scissors ............ 0.006 230 *Aquarium Scrapers ................. 228 *AqQiasLerrarivM Wasa csae aaa deeetins 122 *Aquatie Cutworm ....62.5600¢5.008 203 Authors: PKeT@GS Geshe cages geeee ks > 4 WINTON ss ee pert cen aera 6 aera auanege th 191, 1923 WBA COP Men Pk auen oat Gecmcnce vd hn Shoe oak 185, 186 Barnacled Goldfish .............04- 33 *Belostoma 4414 .nnule abe os. RASS A 159,160 Bibliography i. :.assast kak a 4 ete aaa 242 *Black-banded Sunfish ............./ 78 Black Pungis. agecicey os oy ose eee ea 148 *“Blaek-nosed Date ..2 2.52 e4e¢an 553% 71 *Bladderwort! ssecuvicadoxeagaseeawas 177 *Bloodworms 2 Breeding Goldfish .................. 48 SBRCOGIN GS AUS <5 5,8eaidiica a ky Salen cele 230 Brissels, Netting: 2cseis workaes AAA GOS 22 *Buffalohead Goldfish ............... 34 SCabomba: cw sa% cuane ena saan ae 174, 175 CACtir mira wad. 04 acd a Bye eerie gd 124 *Cali¢o: Comte acs cen akeeinedordaees 202 “CallittiGh® 24444424 enews 258 185, 186 Cape: Pofid: Weed) assis cesidueiss i gd fae 200 OAT bon hasnt atte eared BS ioe 82 Pala PASS Mora nai ule BEN Gesu neoeutns natn 8 q7 Capacity of Aquarin ...........200- 224 *Celestial Teleseopa ............0. 32, 208 Cement for Aquaria ............000. 218 Gératephy lim: 2544 fs eundneweeauas 176 *Ceratopteris thalictroides ........... 194 *Ohiaetodon siswiviien cata nae deka wa wars 73 *Chanchito: ssscces sus vce n wars 6 eles 104 Changing: “Water 4.cdo.% 53 a66 eae ae 7 Chemical Depletion of Water ........ 10 *Chinese Scaleless Telescope.17, 30, 31, 226 *Chinese Telescope ......... 0.000504 8 29 POROD cake aes eae ose eS 79 ACHUDSUCKER «aj hisugusnarias de Sia eeaue ements 80 Colors in Goldfish ........0.. 0.00008 21 *Comet Goldfish ...........-....4. 24, 202 *Concrete Aquarium .......... Frontispiece Concrete Aquaria .............0000e 218 *Conerete Forms. wi.cn eh 252 2004 68 ea sae 21 *Concrete. Pool ainissaeae sn oto nied asta 225 Constipation: sanseneine ss oak owes 6s eles 149 Construction of Aquarin ...... 211 Construction of Tanks and Pools 220 CONSUMPTION cease ees ves 64a a eS i cue 150 “Coral. Snails «senses tonchewseaaa 11, 12 *COTINIDGO! or es ganar ee oD Ge Seb arabes 158 *Croaking Gourami ................. 103 SOP Stal wore: io asm aiwicd Aaees aoe 191, 192 MOVGIODS. © se 0.-4o5 trshndyee eles Aca oner est Roe 132 Cyperus. Papyrus! acs sssc4se0 cee swe 200 MOVDEISH, stiish a at-oanageeiwen param ae ata 133 DapHMltine 4.24. cae fh cemunch enced cu eee le 130 AD AGENT pls, sik au.d in wnusa ny oat cone be, eustnde 15 Dip DUber i.3.6.0.008 S44 seesaw ene 229 Diseases of Aquarium Fishes ........ 144 Diseased Marine Fishes ............ 118 Diseases of Tropical Fishes ......... 154 DOM ita. Aside Banc eingeaiightinns wae e dn eee 235 “Dragon Ply Marva aend saves eigan s 157 DPepsy. ie civeex Sees 55s BOGS G8 So a nto 150 *Duckweed) acveateaeieg eye donee wa 191, 192 PD VUUISCUSH vec eye gts we nee cde wha ee Gales 156 A Biel ics arrose manicas eRRigia wh a Wee an es AS 80 * Well“ Graes: o5-as:4-2 sapaewnss ot wade eee 169, 170 *Egefish (Goldfish) .............0005 87 *Hichhornia Crassipes ............... 197 *Migetrie Light BWE 2.04064 004s04¢se00 159 PICO QE Bi ase te saga vache mieiovian eat ERA ioe 172, 175 MONCH VATRAG aye 25.4 a kta ei Racy ach inna aes 136 Enemies of Aquatic Plants .......... 203 Enemies. of Fishes ..cs.050040s04 0 156 *Eriocaulon septangulare ............ 178 Exotic: Bish@s: 2< caw teuse sy banedews 84-92 Eye Inflammation, casas es caeheueda a 152 *Fantail ‘Goldfish ae. ¢4ccasionn a eeeeaas 26 MONWOLE: 54 tae Bine here boo dale 174, 175 “Farm Breeding Ponds .............. 63 VEE. I Ie one etnrsctiod dich state Syria soot siete qT TROPICAL AQUARIUM FISHES 245 Peeding Fey wii6keeag sh gaasn coawe 57, 58 *Japaneso Snail .............00.00 ee 11 PBMGGP seictia Saree Sou satccceaciein s mae 232, 2383 *Japanese Spatterdock .............. 183 Fin Congestion ................0005 146 *Finishing Concrete Pools ........... 223 fai *Fishfoods (living) ...............0. as GE ret Reet te ae ae Fishfoods (prepared) .............. 128 Pish Globes> saci icdiecs ¥awcadadad eye sae 15 *Haee Vint cy asc vecenceey x eaaay ye 190 MINSH DGG. tucies wan wnpode meee Se Ae OES 153 Larger Enemies (of fish) ............ 162 “Fish, Netackdices ca ewe sd geeeaw be oes 228 Leaks in Aquaria .... 0... ee eee 15 Plukes) oc htncy se tavew eis adhe se pies 154 LeOchesp. cr Wen atuncts ones ok ee 153 *Pontinalis antipyretica ......... 183, 184 *Lemna Minor ..............6-- 192, 193 *Fontinalis gracilis ............. 183, 184 Lettered Goldfish 2.002... :00e00008% 37 MPUTRCUS Vous ones babe eka soee eee 229 DREN pea GaGa Oe wae Rais toe 8 Hortye Dom tS) wccte-3 644 pa Rae ate 236 *Limnocharis humboldti ............ 191 *Freshwater Shrimp ................. 185 “*Lionhead Goldfish ............... 34, 202 *Fringetail Goldfish ................. 27 Live. Bearers’. ccsisii ook ycetinn sans 97 #Brog bit: ssc eee Sele eee 193 *Livebearing Jars ................4. 230 Viizard'is® Tails jedwale 3 oh a cyanea mee 200 *MOWChs wisn gs canine wer ata eee a eee 13 Gallon Capacity ........... 0.0.0.4, 224 en erat NN eine 200, 201 Gallon Weights s.c30- 25 Saw ising Aaa so 224 FT Wikla: dei eneaeneres cave 180, 181 Giant Water BUG asc seaside auslenbare 159 *Ludwigia (wild) ......e.ceeceseees 168 Gill Congestion ................00. 151 *Golden Orfe or Ide ............... 77 *Golden Tench ............ 000.0000 7g “*Mare’s Tail .................., 186, 187 Goldfish ......... REAPNS Hath Sane se EN 20 Marine Aquaria ........... 00. .000- 110 *Goldfish at 2 Weeks ............... 53 Marsh Marigold .....-......+..... 200 *Goldfish at 6 Weeks ............... 54 *Medal of Aquarium Society ......... 42 *Goldfish at 3 Months .............. 55 “Meteor Goldfish d *Goldfish Over One Year ............ 56 “Moneywort ...............-..04 Gol@fisty Age of 6445000 c4504444 404% 21 “Mosquito Larva Goldfish, Age in Fancy Breeds ...... 22 *Mosquito Eggs Goldfish, Early Variations .......... 23 Microscope Books See Fg erm traces teaches 142 *Goldfish, Competitions .............. 40 Microscope in Aquarium Work ...... 140 *Goldfish, Eggs .........00 000. c cece 52 Mites 0.2... ee eee eee 161 Goldfish in Running Water .......... 67 “Moor Goldfish .................5. 18, 34 *Goldfish, Spawning ................ 51 blonthbreedens SERIE BG gas es eee pd 97 Green Tench .............0-000eee 18 yMalles SEEPS Rin Bi nen Stisceininn a alanis, 80 *Gyrinidag. 2395.5 0.26c.e beta an beeen e 161 a 13 *Myriophyllum .................. 176, 177 *Hair Grass: ¢.446-220gneheeeeeere dd 178 , : *Hardshell Daphnia ..............-.. 133 Native) (Rishés: wis 655 ds oy dea ouuewas 70 Heat: Control: nee Siete eee eas 107 *Ne@luMmbINMS: f..05 oe be ac 200, 201 Heating Tropical Aquaria ........... 102 *Nepidae WORD R ee E Re ene Ona eA gs 160 *Herb Twopence ............0+5: 186, 187 Nest Builders ..................0., 95 *Herpestis,. cacanrnata sai aaeheac « 185, 186 a 228 * Heterantherac cna aouwcee a eee 189, 190 *Nitella. gracilis: ..a.<.6aachseon 23 179, 180 *Hippocampus ..........--.00005 116, 117 *“Nuphar sagittaefolia ............... 182 FAIPOUPIG: ee4aase ees ie eon ee wees 186,187 “Nymph Goldfish ..................,. 28 Houseleck